# paper tuning a bow



## Scrap Iron (May 10, 2005)

I like to stand around 4to5ft. I dont like to get to far because I want to know what the arrow is doing when it comes of off the rest. If you stand too far back the arrow may have enough distance to correct itself or over correct itself and give you a false reading. What i mean by over correcting itself is when you see the arrow whipping in flight. It is the vanes trying to make the arrow fly true. If you stand close to the paper you know what it is doing right when it leaves the rest. Eventullay the arrow will fly true over a certain distance. The vanes will create enough drag to stabilize the arrow. 

hope this helps.


----------



## AllenRead (Jan 12, 2004)

You should paper tune at several distances. I use 5', 10' & 15'. This guarantees that the arrow is flying straight. If you test it at just one distance it may give you a false reading. 

Sort of like a stopped clock is right twice a day. The fishtailing or porposing will be at zero at some point. If you happen to be shooting at that one distance, you will think that your bow is tuned when it is not.

Good luck,
Allen


----------



## MHansel (Jan 8, 2005)

*Paper tuning*

I stand about 8-10ft. away from the paper :wink:


----------



## fish24 (Sep 22, 2005)

*5' 10'&15'*

If you where to stand & shoot all of those distances , at 5' you had a perfect hole , but at 10' you had areally bad tear ....Which one is right ? :beer:


----------



## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Just guessing here... that would indicate fishtailing/porpoising. So either the rest is not in the correct placement yet or it's an arrow spine issue.


----------



## dixrp (Oct 26, 2004)

If the arrow comes off the bow straight it should not be fishtailing down range.


----------



## Midlife Crisis (Mar 24, 2004)

You shoot at several distances. Just one might catch the arrow perfectly aligned, even though it is fishtailing or porpoising. Only when you get bullets at all distances do you really know that your arrow flight is good. 3', 6', 10', 15' are good. 

Also, use more than one arrow to test - I recently had one arrow that was whacky when the other 3 I was using for paper tuning flew fine. That one arrow is either fletched badly, the nock is goofy, or the shaft was poorly made. Since I fletched it my guess is that that is culprit. I have it marked and only use it for target practice and will refletch when necessary.


----------



## Jabwa (Dec 10, 2004)

The paper tear will be at its worst at about 15' im my vast experience in my hi-tec basement setup.


----------



## bow worx (Mar 19, 2005)

*arrows*

can someone tell me when the arrow stops flexing after the shot
is made


----------



## mobowhntr (Jan 29, 2005)

bow worx said:


> can someone tell me when the arrow stops flexing after the shot
> is made


Of all the videos I've seen, the arrow flexed all the way to the target.


----------



## A Mess (May 21, 2005)

40 or 50 yards if there is no wind. Have the paper firmly fastened to the target back stop. Put a bull's eye on it. Now shoot at it. Micro adjust your rest/nock point until your groups are as small as they can be, and your field tips are hitting the same place as your fixed blade broadheads. Best "paper tuning" method there is.


----------



## bow worx (Mar 19, 2005)

*paper tune*

Hooked 

so what you are telling me is paper tune means absolutly nothing
if the arrow never stops flexing how can a paper tune tell us anthing 
on how the shooter tourqes his/her bow on the shot
so why is there such a worry if the arrow goes straight through paper
dont we want arrows to hit the same location not how much it rips the paper?


----------



## mobowhntr (Jan 29, 2005)

I honestly dont know how it works, and I am not implying that it dont work. You just asked when the arrow stopped flexing. From what I've seen on the slow mo videos, they dont. Me personaly I dont paper tune, I walk back tune to get the center shot and then I tune my broadheads to hit with my field points.


----------



## RicknKansas (Jul 2, 2005)

bow worx said:


> Hooked
> 
> so what you are telling me is paper tune means absolutly nothing
> if the arrow never stops flexing how can a paper tune tell us anthing
> ...


Now you're getting it!!!
I copied this from a thread I started earlier today;

You read a lot of questions here about paper tuning. Please, people don't waste your valuable time. Only shoot through paper if you think the bow is so far out of tune a bare shaft won't hit the target.

Here's what a tuned bow should do..
Switchback 72 lbs. 29 in. draw
Winners Choice cable and strings
WB Droptine QS
CX 300 arrows 28 3/4" long
284 fps (292 fps without string whiskers)

1 bare shaft and 1 fletched shaft grouped at 30 yards. 5/8" from center to center of shafts. If your bow will do this it will shoot any broadhead like a field point.
Paper tuning is a very basic beginning, my bow does not shoot "bullet holes" in paper but it shoots broadheads exactly where my field points hit.


----------



## archery_hunter (Jan 25, 2004)

*paper tuning*

3 - 6 feet.

After that the fletching corrects arrow generally.

Anyway, paper testing is much over rated. I have seen some of the countries top shooters shoot with a 7" nock high tear..

However, to acheive proper field point to broadhead flight many things come into play. Most times it is fletching contact to rest and/or bow hand torque.

I recommend that you get your self to a pro shop that has a bow vise leveling machine, and laser center shot. Single cam bows need to be leveled off the shelf. Two cam, or hybrid systems need to be leveled off the string as long as the brace & tiller are correct.

Single cams should set so that the arrow sits 1/16th - 1/8" above level bubble. Duel/hybrid cams dead even/level.

Once this is acheived, @ 20yds, shoot a bare shaft into a 2" circle bullseye. sight in sight until you hit it consistantly. Once this is acheived. Shoot one arrow into this 2" circle @ 20yds. Leaving that arrow in the target, hang a plumb bob ( string w/ weight), from the nock end of that arrow, leaving it sit in target. Then back up to 30 yds. ( still bare shaft) Aim at the arrow in target. If the 30 yd arrow consistantly shoots to the left of the plumb bob string, move the rest in 1/16th " increments to the RIGHT. If it consistantly shoots to the right of the plumb bob move the rest in 1/16th" increments to the left. Do not worry above elevation.

This was taught to me by the famous George Chapman, who is the Head technical & archery school instructor @ PSE in Tuscon AZ, along with the former Soviet Union Olympic Archery team coach, Alexander Krilov. 

This is referred as a super level tune adjustment. This will enable broadhead & field point accuracy like you have never acheived, but only if your form is good too!


----------



## 1horn (Jan 12, 2005)

my bow will shoot perfect holes from 3 feet out to 20 yards ..(this is as far as I've tried). My broadheads are within an inch of field tips at 50-60 yards....I paper tune bows for 200-300 archers a year the same way. This works for us.


----------



## BamaBoy (Jul 12, 2005)

I normally start paper tuning with a bare shaft. This eliminates the need to guess about distance. Without vanes the shaft does not "correct" over distance but simply gets worse as you move back. Get a bullet hole with the bare shaft out to 15-20 feet and you should be very close with a fletched shaft unless you have a spine problem which is compounded by the weight of the fletching or fletching contact. However, this still only a start. The end game for me is not a bullet hole through paper but fixed blade broadheads grouping with target point out to 50-60 yards. I next go to broadhead tuning which involves comparing the impact point of target points versus fixed blade broadheads. You could just as easily compare the impact point of bare shafts with target points versus fletched shafts with target points. I find it easier/quicker to go directly to the broadheads.


----------

