# Is my nocking point too high?



## Sand_man (Feb 12, 2011)

I have been shooting the bow well with no problems and just noticed that my D-loop puts my nocking point about 0.5" above square. That looks way to high to me but I have done the quick tune method, as show in the AT video, and I notice no difference in shot placement horizontally from 10 to 20 yards. I have heard 0.125" or 0.25" nock high but could 0.5" be right on a drop away rest. I have included pics, don't mind the green rubber band, it is holding the rest up.


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

you need to have the rest up at full top position before you can check nock point, with the pic showing rest down you cant tell anything


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## Sand_man (Feb 12, 2011)

dwagoner said:


> you need to have the rest up at full top position before you can check nock point, with the pic showing rest down you cant tell anything


I do have the rest up. I have it held in place by the green rubber band.


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## NP Archery (Jul 29, 2008)

I wont say it can't hit where you are aiming but..........it's way too high for me. I'd move the nocking point down to square and work from there. Check to see that limbs are adjusted equal and then look at the cam sync/timing. Binarys have pretty much level nock travel.


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## Sand_man (Feb 12, 2011)

NP Archery said:


> I wont say it can't hit where you are aiming but..........it's way too high for me. I'd move the nocking point down to square and work from there. Check to see that limbs are adjusted equal and then look at the cam sync/timing. Binarys have pretty much level nock travel.


I'm starting to also think it is way to high. Is the method described in the AT quick tune video reliable way for setting nock height by shooting at a horizontal line at 10 then 20 yards? I have tried paper tuning with a home made jig but end up pulling my hair out after a bit.


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## NP Archery (Jul 29, 2008)

Check cam timing first. Crazy nocking points to get a good tear in paper usually screams a timming issue on 2-cam bows. If the cam timing is good, set your nock height to level ( i start by eyeballing the arrow level with the cable slide rod ) and fine tune from there. You can use the AT method or paper to confirm correct nock height just remember those are not definite or end-all practices.


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## Bullseye_62 (Oct 23, 2009)

If it were my bow then I would set it either square or up to 1/8" nock high but no more. Then go to papertune. If it doesn't shoot well through paper then you have some timing/limb issues going on. Good luck.


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## rdneckhillbilly (Jan 25, 2010)

Too high. If you can, nock and arrow and take a picture so we can see both cams.


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## 454casull (Jan 7, 2005)

If the bow has more than 200 shoots through it the cams will need to be sync'd then start the whole process over again. Most of the Primals that have seen my drawboard have the bottom cam hitting late. Once sync'd the bow really starts to shine, vibration reduces if present and it becomes a real tack driver. Now in my costly experiences this bow also likes a very stiff arrow. give us your DL, DW tip weight and arrow length...could save you some headaches later..


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## rdneckhillbilly (Jan 25, 2010)

rdneckhillbilly said:


> Too high. If you can, nock and arrow and take a picture so we can see both cams.


With the bow drawn...forgot that part.


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## Sand_man (Feb 12, 2011)

rdneckhillbilly said:


> With the bow drawn...forgot that part.


I'll work on that when I get home.


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## Sand_man (Feb 12, 2011)

454casull said:


> If the bow has more than 200 shoots through it the cams will need to be sync'd then start the whole process over again. Most of the Primals that have seen my drawboard have the bottom cam hitting late. Once sync'd the bow really starts to shine, vibration reduces if present and it becomes a real tack driver. Now in my costly experiences this bow also likes a very stiff arrow. give us your DL, DW tip weight and arrow length...could save you some headaches later..


I just got the bow I think in June brand new from Richmond, MI. I probably am right at the point where you say I should sync the cams.

DL = 28.5
DW = not measured but I have the limb bolts all the way in. Its a 70 lb bow so it should be real close to that.
Tip = 100 grain FP's
Arrow lenght = 28.75"

Just bought Carbon Express Mayhem 350's.


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## boomersooner23 (Mar 17, 2008)

It looks like to me the rest may to low. Do you even have vane clearance with the rest where its set? Is your arrow even with the berger hole in the riser?


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## 454casull (Jan 7, 2005)

I'm real close to that and had to go up to a 300 spine arrow. You should employ a draw board to set the cams as this accounts for limb deflection variances. Get the cams together first then we can worry about the arrows. The cams were most likely never on but at 200+ shots (got it right this time) the string and cables have settled. There are 4 dots on the outside of the cams that I use for reference points at full draw, "usually" after these are correct the draw stops hit perfectly w/out the need to move them. Trying to do this at brace just doesn't cut it. That I-Glide Flex is a great improvement....


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## Sand_man (Feb 12, 2011)

boomersooner23 said:


> It looks like to me the rest may to low. Do you even have vane clearance with the rest where its set? Is your arrow even with the berger hole in the riser?


Yea the arrow covers the berger hole. I have the G5 drop away that only adjusts in/out not up and down too. I think the arrow is slanted down so sharply that it comes closer to the shelf more and more. I am going to be moving my nocking point and be checking my cam syncronization as 454casull is explaining.


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## Sand_man (Feb 12, 2011)

454casull said:


> I'm real close to that and had to go up to a 300 spine arrow. You should employ a draw board to set the cams as this accounts for limb deflection variances. Get the cams together first then we can worry about the arrows. The cams were most likely never on but at 200+ shots (got it right this time) the string and cables have settled. There are 4 dots on the outside of the cams that I use for reference points at full draw, "usually" after these are correct the draw stops hit perfectly w/out the need to move them. Trying to do this at brace just doesn't cut it. That I-Glide Flex is a great improvement....


It might take me a bit of time but I think I am going to make a draw board so I can check my cams as your describing. I have a "portable bow press" device that I made with a ratchet strap that will work to turn the cables if I have to. Any good plans on a draw board?


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## 454casull (Jan 7, 2005)

Check the DIY section....as crazy or as simple as you want. Mine is a 6 foot 2x8 with a strap style winch, "biner" style clips and a full steel turn buckle. Be sure sure to allow about 3" for offset to closer appx. actual draw. I built mine before my bow even got to me. You will most likely notice the bottom cam will be late, top cam draw stop hits first.


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