# Bare Shaft tuning info (Easton tuning guide) vs Software for Archers spine info



## AT_X_HUNTER (Aug 10, 2005)

I'd do a walk back or french tune first to make sure you have your centershot right. Also, make sure you start your bareshaft tuning up close. You want to make sure the arrow isn't just flying so badly that you are getting false results.

Once you know the rest is in the right place try adjusting your poundage. If the arrow is weak reducing the poundage will make them fly and group better. If the arrow is stiff, increasing poundage will weaken the arrow. One way you can test this is to shoot some groups at longer distances, like 50 or 60 yards. After shooting a couple groups adjust your poundage and see what the groups do. If you can't increase your poundage you can add weight to the point.

If I were in your shoes I'd just do a french tune and then shoot some shots with broad heads. If you can shoot broadheads cleanly, I wouldn't worry about the bare shaft test.


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## WithoutWarning (Jan 26, 2010)

What is a 'French tune' ?


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## .308 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks a bunch AT X Hunter.


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## WithoutWarning (Jan 26, 2010)

WithoutWarning said:


> What is a 'French tune' ?


AT X Hunter . . . . .?
Anyone else know ?


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## AT_X_HUNTER (Aug 10, 2005)

French tuning is a modified walk back. instead of shooting at several distances you pick one, say 50 yards. You shoot one arrow at about 3 yards and make sure you are hitting dead center. Then go back with that same pin (50 yard) and shoot a few arrows. If your center shot is right, you will hit center. If your arrows hit to the left you need to move your rest a touch to the right. If you hit right, move the rest left. Then go back up to 3 yards and make any sight adjustments necessary to put your arrow dead center again. Go back to 50 and repeat the process.

It's a faster method and can be done at greater distances than traditional walk back tuning. I think it may be more accurate becasue of the fact. I French tune at 70 meters (77 yards).


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## TMan51 (Jan 25, 2004)

.308 said:


> I can see the arrows really fishtailing and they even impact at a sever angle. The Software for Archers Spine tab says I'm overspined and changing to 125 gr tips would help a bunch, but the Easton Tuning Guide says my arrow is weak???? I was planning on getting some lower weight tips like 75 gr & 80-85 gr tips to try. Any thoughts or recommendations?
> 
> Chris


Typically arrows fishtail for centershot alignment, sometimes for spine problems, but it could be either/both. Rest clearance or vane/cable clearance in some cases are a major possibility.

I use various methods to tune, but I always start with an eyeball alignment with the riser/shaft, and the nock point barely above level, or square to the string. Then I time the cams. From there I bare shaft tune to get clean entry out to 30', moving back 5-10' at a time. Why 30'? Because every fletch setup I have will achieve at least two complete revolutions by 15', and once it's spinning, it will follow the point.

Next I work with a planing shaft, to achieve the same POI as fletched, and finish with BH tuning. In short, I sneak up on the problem. BH tuning isn't always the same as a planing shaft, and not everyone thinks that is important, including some pretty experienced tuners. No one will suggest fishtailing is OK, it's not.

The shaft isn't underspined by any means, and 125gr heads might be just the ticket, but fishtailing must have a source, and you should get to that first. Take notes, and try to be consistant with whatever methods or sequence you find easiest.


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