# Wood or carbon arrows for trad longbow



## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

FullDraw44 said:


> i have been shooting cedar arrows out of my longbow for 2 years. they fly ok but they need constant attention and straightening plus i destroy them. i have been thinking about ordering carbons from 3 rivers and want to know if they are an overall better arrow than the wood (fly straighter and truer and last longer) or should i just stay with wood. thanks for your help.


 For all the reasons you mention, I shoot wood. I love making arrows, and I love destroying them... which I do constantly while roving, but if you don't love straightening.... although on that note... cedar is pretty easy to straighten... 

Much Aloha.. :beer:


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## dcwhite55044 (Nov 6, 2003)

Based on your sinature it looks like you also shoot compounds and I am guessing you use carbons so you may already have your answer.  Both types of arrows will get destroyed depending on what you are shooting at so it comes down to straigtening. Yes....carbon will be straighter without the need for periodic attention.


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## Alpinbogen (Jun 18, 2009)

Port Orford Cedar makes a great arrow shaft with regards to straightness, but yes, it is not very rugged. You could go with douglas fir or western larch shafts if you like the weight and straightness of cedar. They are similar in that regard to cedar, but slightly heavier and quite a bit more rugged. Or move over to hardwoods like ash and hickory. Both are heavier still and very rugged. Hickory is almost bombproof. Ash is my personal favorite for straightness and ruggedness. When you've got a thing for wood, only wood will do.


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## Two Blade (Jul 13, 2008)

I would love to have a dozen wood arrows to shoot that are all painted up and lookin pretty but this constant maintenance thing that I read about with woodies is the only thing holding me back from buying a dozen. Maybe I'll get a dozen pretty ones to decorate my bow rack.

FullDraw, Have you considered aluminum? Aluminum's are great IMHO.


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## YeomanLefty (Jul 12, 2010)

I bought carbons for my 65# longbow. I've had the longbow for about 27ish years. I got out of archery in my late teens and just came back a short time ago. Having said that, and prior to reading thoroughly thru AT and other archery forums I went to a local shop and bought carbon. Great help from the shop guy, but for one thing. He didn't ask if my LB was cut to center or if not, how far from center. I bought carbons that were way too stiff for my 7/16 off-center LB. They are spined right for the 65#, but too stiff considering the paradox I needed to set them off on a good flight.

They ARE tough as nails. I will go carbon again, but with the correct spine. The only thing you should consider is that carbon can crack or split. Catastrophic failure will follow if you don't catch it. Just like carbon framed mountain bikes. They are light and fast, but when they go it's gonna be bad.

Go carbon if you'd like. Just make sure of getting the right spine. I have seen the 3Rivers Traditionals being shot by a guy at a local shoot. NICE!


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## YeomanLefty (Jul 12, 2010)

Oh. And to also back up Two Blade's comment, Easton Legacys (aluminum) are nice also. I have six and they are fantastic. I'll be buying more 1916s soon.


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## Two Blade (Jul 13, 2008)

YeomanLefty......PM Sent.


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## YeomanLefty (Jul 12, 2010)

reply sent


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## BowmanJay (Jan 1, 2007)

rattus58 said:


> For all the reasons you mention, I shoot wood. I love making arrows, and I love destroying them... which I do constantly while roving, but if you don't love straightening.... although on that note... cedar is pretty easy to straighten...
> 
> Much Aloha.. :beer:


Couldnt agree more! Sounds like you might want to go the "quick" route which is okay, so go to carbons, I love the way wood performs and also enjoy making my own...


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## ripforce (Feb 15, 2010)

I am on the opposite track I have been shooting carbons since I bought my longbows however I recently have got into shooting some wood arrows! I still love the carbons I have beat the hell out of my Carbon Express Heritages and have only ruined one of them and that arrow I still salvaged for a stumper! My son bought a dozen Douglas fir finished arrows from the Feathered shaft, beautiful arrows and they are tough as hell! So I thought I would try some wood shafts myself, so far I have used Chondoo and Port Orford cedars shafts making them up has been real addicting and both shoot great out of my longbows! So far they have not required a whole lot of maintenance! I still have not totally given up on the Carbons though! I may try some ash hardwood shafts or Dougals firs next! The 3Rivers Trad only are a real nice trad carbon, they are made by Easton!


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## elk country rp (Sep 5, 2005)

Alpinbogen said:


> Port Orford Cedar makes a great arrow shaft with regards to straightness, but yes, it is not very rugged. You could go with douglas fir or western larch shafts if you like the weight and straightness of cedar. They are similar in that regard to cedar, but slightly heavier and quite a bit more rugged. Or move over to hardwoods like ash and hickory. Both are heavier still and very rugged. Hickory is almost bombproof. Ash is my personal favorite for straightness and ruggedness. When you've got a thing for wood, only wood will do.


i *love* my hickory arrows!!!
cedars are kinda flimsy- i like _most_ hardwoods for arrows


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

To try to get the same consistency from wood that you get from out of the box carbons or aluminums takes time and money. Aluminums, for instance, come grain and spine matched out of the box closer than you'll ever get wood arrows. I love the beauty and timelessness of good wood arrows but in terms of performace there is no contest between wood and good aluminum or carbon arrows. Also, with a wood set of arrows, if you break some, you'll likely never be able to add matched arrows to that set, since you need both weight and grain matching. But with aluminum arrows, I can--maybe not matched at high level tournament specs, but more than good enough for my everyday shooting.

Two things finally got me to give up woodies for general use. 1) Longbow trick shooter Byron Ferguson, who I saw shooting aluminums, and who explained the benefits of aluminum arrows. 2) Larry Yien, who shoots woodies for IFAA Longbow division, where they are required for the division. When I saw how much money and time it took for him to get his arrow up to not quite Aluminum specs I realized I didn't want to spend all of my time and money doing that when I could just buy aluminum arrows.

For reference, here is Larry Yien's process for setting up his wood arrows:

http://www.stickbow.com/FEATURES/SHOOTING/arrows/arrows1.cfm


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## FORESTGUMP (May 14, 2008)

Warbow said:


> To try to get the same consistency from wood that you get from out of the box carbons or aluminums takes time and money. Aluminums, for instance, come grain and spine matched out of the box closer than you'll ever get wood arrows. I love the beauty and timelessness of good wood arrows but in terms of performace there is no contest between wood and good aluminum or carbon arrows. Also, with a wood set of arrows, if you break some, you'll likely never be able to add matched arrows to that set, since you need both weight and grain matching. But with aluminum arrows, I can--maybe not matched at high level tournament specs, but more than good enough for my everyday shooting.
> 
> Two things finally got me to give up woodies for general use. 1) Longbow trick shooter Byron Ferguson, who I saw shooting aluminums, and who explained the benefits of aluminum arrows. 2) Larry Yien, who shoots woodies for IFAA Longbow division, where they are required for the division. When I saw how much money and time it took for him to get his arrow up to not quite Aluminum specs I realized I didn't want to spend all of my time and money doing that when I could just buy aluminum arrows.
> 
> ...


Hmmmm.Was I wrong? Maybe the sky IS falling. I agree with Warbow on something.

Aluminum is just hard to beat.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

I used to make all my own arrows from different woods. Tried cedar, soon gave them up. Flimsy. I used birch for a couple years, but they gave me alot of trouble getting a matched set, and even then they don't fly as nicely as my carbons. Now, hickory has always been a soft spot for me. I've only ever been able to use the ones I made from scratch- a left over stave actually- but despite huge flaws in construction those beasts were impossible to break under normal use and would blast through anything I shot them at. Including various small trees.

Right now I'm using footed carbons, but there will be some hickory arrows in my future. Some day...


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

FullDraw44 said:


> i have been shooting cedar arrows out of my longbow for 2 years. they fly ok but they need constant attention and straightening plus i destroy them. i have been thinking about ordering carbons from 3 rivers and want to know if they are an overall better arrow than the wood (fly straighter and truer and last longer) or should i just stay with wood. thanks for your help.


If you're getting tired of the constant attention, straightening and destroying of wood arrows...than footed carbons are your ticket 

I enjoy making my own equipment...but when I make something I want it to last and I don't like going through arrows.

The toughest arrow for me as of date is a footed skinny carbon Easton Axis arrow. It is also the highest penetrating arrow I have used.

Love wood but I also love being able to shoot my arrows at just about anything and not worry about replacing them. Ya know....it's rocky here in the Rockies 

Ray :shade:


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## Two Blade (Jul 13, 2008)

Ray, What spine and point weight are you using with your Axis arrows? Is there any issues footing the shafts with the HIT inserts? I just checked out Easton"s Site and just guessing for my set-up, 50# Titan, I was looking at a .600 Axis @ 29" with a 125gr point. That is around 360gr. Man that's just too light for me. Are you doing the EFOC thing? John


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## Raider2000 (Oct 21, 2003)

With a 50# bow as long as you're around 27" or longer I would go with a .500 spine.

My Gold Tip Trad 35/55's ".500" are cut full length, 5" Parabolics, standard insert w/ 10gr. weight added, 125gr point & footed with a 1" piece of 2117.
Total arrow weight is 448gr. & I shoot between 47# - 49# with my 27.5" AMO draw.

I only broke 2 of my arrows & both times were my own fault on how I tried to remove them.


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

Two Blade said:


> Ray, What spine and point weight are you using with your Axis arrows? Is there any issues footing the shafts with the HIT inserts? I just checked out Easton"s Site and just guessing for my set-up, 50# Titan, I was looking at a .600 Axis @ 29" with a 125gr point. That is around 360gr. Man that's just too light for me. Are you doing the EFOC thing? John


I'm using the .300 spine at 30.5" with 175g. points. I shoot a 69lbs. DAS Master recurve and I got a complete pass through on the last bull I shot at 20 yrds. I couldn't even find the arrow. I didn't look super hard but non the less it blew through that elk like a hot knife through butter. The broadheads I used were STOS. 

Keep in mind the most important aspects of bowhunting regarding arrows are to use a good COC broadhead and tune your arrows to the best of your ability. If you are really struggling with getting your arrows tuned...going heavier with your arrows can make up the some of the difference of the advantages of having a properly tuned arrow. It really doesn't take much to penetrate penetrate whitetail deer or elk for that matter with tuned equipment.

Ray :shade:


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## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

Carbons are tough, light, straight and constantly spined...............but the cool factor of wood is not there. I'm more of a shooter than tinkerer so carbons are just fine for me. I like the Beman ICS 500 Bowhunter's full length from my 40-45# recurves. Chances are your accuracy will improve due to the consistency of the carbon arrows over woodies.


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## Flying Dutchman (Aug 7, 2008)

Okay, I am a longbow shooter. A hybrid at the moment, but still a longbow. I have used all kinds of varieties of wood and carbon Goldtips. At the moment I am back on woodies, And I use Sitka Spruce to be more precise. Sitka is strong, straight and consistant. My dealer handspines them within a 1LB range, weights them within +/- 5 grains accuracy. Last shafts I got were all 53 lBS, all 325 grains and all straight! I cut them on lenght, lacquer the last 10 inch of the shaft, fletch, put he point on it it and treat the remaining of the shaft with tung-oil. Most of the time I make 12 shafts at once, but intend to make them with 24 (without fletching) so I have some stock. 
I prefer wood because it flies more natural, is more foregivin and it belongs more with a traditional longbow. I seldom destroy an arrow and they don't need much attention once build.


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## Eldermike (Mar 24, 2009)

I make up a bunch of wood arrows and then shoot them until I am down to say 10 or so, then it's time to do it again. I am also not hung up on how straight an arrow is. The bent ones hit within the group and most often the ones that don't are not bent. There is a dynamic balance thing going on with an arrow that's rotating. In fact an arrow shot at short ranges is not straight until it's been in the target long enough to come to full rest.


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## FullDraw44 (Sep 11, 2010)

i cant decide so i am going to build some woodies and get some carbons that way i have to best of both


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

Not long ago I ran a little test on my woodies. They are 3-Rivers factory sorted PO Cedar. Other than that, I never sorted for spine and weight, just index to grain the same. These I've shot for several years from my longbow. The test was to shoot from my sighted bow, where I know what my carbons will do, i.e., pretty much all hit the 5 ring at 20 yards.

Of the 6 best woodies I shot from my sighted bow, along with my carbons, 2 of the 6 I would not hesitate to shoot along with my carbons. Flew great and hit with the others. 4 of the 6 hit way outside of my aiming point and none of the 4 ever would hit together - showing higher and lower spine variance that was easily noticeable - much variance.

This opened my eyes as to the required sort process many speak of. If I wanted some consistent woodies, consistent with each other, my cull pile would probably be larger than my shootable pile of shafts by a large margin. To boot, I would probably have to fletch and cut and shoot against some known constant, say a sighted bow, to get the final verdict.


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## Eldermike (Mar 24, 2009)

Sanford said:


> Not long ago I ran a little test on my woodies. They are 3-Rivers factory sorted PO Cedar. Other than that, I never sorted for spine and weight, just index to grain the same. These I've shot for several years from my longbow. The test was to shoot from my sighted bow, where I know what my carbons will do, i.e., pretty much all hit the 5 ring at 20 yards.
> 
> Of the 6 best woodies I shot from my sighted bow, along with my carbons, 2 of the 6 I would not hesitate to shoot along with my carbons. Flew great and hit with the others. 4 of the 6 hit way outside of my aiming point and none of the 4 ever would hit together - showing higher and lower spine variance that was easily noticeable - much variance.
> 
> This opened my eyes as to the required sort process many speak of. If I wanted some consistent woodies, consistent with each other, my cull pile would probably be larger than my shootable pile of shafts by a large margin. To boot, I would probably have to fletch and cut and shoot against some known constant, say a sighted bow, to get the final verdict.


For this reason I buy my shafts weight matched within 5 grains, I get them from Rose City. On a new set I mark the fliers and continue to shoot until I am convinced it's not me and those get put in the flu flu box. But with weight matching to begin with it's not to many that fall out.


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

Three rivers state theirs are within 5# requirement on spine but nothing stated as to weight sorting. Do the Rose City ones cull better than 2 out of 6? I would go broke trying to get a match set from the other guys.


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## Zenshooter (Nov 23, 2012)

Sanford said:


> Three rivers state theirs are within 5# requirement on spine but nothing stated as to weight sorting. Do the Rose City ones cull better than 2 out of 6? I would go broke trying to get a match set from the other guys.


Sanford, I read your question, and wanted to let you know that the signature series of Rose City Archery (they might call them "premium") are the best cedar arrows I have found to date. You'll be satisfied if you try them.


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## Jeb-D. (Sep 21, 2011)

^I believe they shoot them out of a hooter shooter type of machine to verify they all hit the same spot.


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