# Tie nock for recurve



## LeEarl (Jun 1, 2002)

What should I use to tie a nock set on my recurve string? Should I use serving material or string material? I am not going to use a brass nock set. 

So, what is your favorite method?


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## atyau (Oct 11, 2004)

I use halo, works best IMO...I am sure that crown or asb would also work well, but much more expensive....
I used to use #2 but, find that the halo holds better than #2. I know of some people that use dental floss (dont reccomend it for when you want to take them off...), #3d, diamond back etc...
I am sure that anything will work, just use what you got is the best advice I can say....


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## olympics84 (Nov 5, 2004)

LeEarl,

I like dental floss because it makes a small and smooth nocking point. Some people use sewing thread for the same reason. Whatever you use, put some krazy glue over the top.


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## baldmountain (Apr 21, 2003)

I usually use some small diamondback end serving material. I just knot it back and forth. (Tie an overhand knot, loop the ends over the string and tie another overhand knot on the other side, then back to the other side, etc.) I'll make 4 or 5 knots. On the last knot I'll make 3 knots and burn the ends so they stay tied. While tuning my nocking point I'll just tie one side. Once I'm happy with my nocking point, I'll tie in both sides.

Having said all that, I'd listen to Glenn and use dental floss with some super glue over it. All the top recurve guys use this method.


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## toxoph (Mar 24, 2005)

I've been wanting to make a thread about this for a while now. I am interested in how other people tie on their nocks.

I use serving thread. If tuning a bow where I need the nocking point to move till I find the correct spot, I tie it on not real tight so I can screw the points (I always tie a top and bottom nock point) up and down the serving. Once the proper height is found, I retie the point a little tighter.

I use the double overhand knot method. I tie an overhand knot at the placement point on top of the string, snug it, then tie an overhand knot on the bottom, snug it, then come back on top, tie another overhand knot, snug it and continue the process till I get the length I need, about 6-7mm. Always tie the overhand knot the same direction, right over left for example or the knot will be ugly. I always work away from where the arrow nocks. To finish, I tie a square knot, clip the tag ends, but not too close, then dab with super glue.

I learned this from the Frank Pearson video. Many people use this method to tie in peeps.

I used to have problems with the nock point moving but this can be solved by putting super glue on while you tie, or you can screw down (hopefully it was tied tight enough to not do this) the point, put glue on then screwing back up before it dries. Gell type super glue I found works best.

I know many people who use floss. I even know some who soak the floss in glue or epoxy first then wrap it.

I an not 100% happy with my method so I would love to hear others methods and why they like it.


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## c3hammer (Sep 20, 2002)

Here's what I use. Ed Eliason showed me this way to make them a few years back.

You simply wrap sewing thread onto a dab of crazy glue as Glenn said above. Ed would then even sand it perfectly round.

Leave a tiny space between nock and the bottom nocking point so that when the serving bends it doesn't separate.

If the height isn't right, you simply shave it off with a razor blade parrallel to the string and glue on a new one.



Cheers,
Pete


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## massman (Jun 21, 2004)

*Adding to the last post*

To get a crisp edge you can install a brass nocking point and use it until you have a correct nocking height. Then add a piece of masking tape to the string where the nock normally goes. Remove the brass nocking point and form the nock set as shown above right up against the edge of the masking tape.. Once you have formed the top nock set, remove the tape and install another piece of masking tape over the formed top nock set and down the string serving the amount you want to where the bottom nock set will go. Then form the bottom nock set. Remove the tape and sand the top & bottom nock sets to whatever shape you like. If you make a mistake you can cut it off with a razorblade. First time I tried this after a coach showed me it took all of 15 minutes to get an acceptable pair of nock sets. If the thread gets a little dry you can add additional drops of CA glue. I use a modeling CA glue that is a bit thicker than crasy glue. If is formulated for balsa wood. Costs about 4.00 for a 1/2 oz tube. Any RC modeling hobby store will have it on the shelf.

Hope this helps.

Tom


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## ksarcher (May 22, 2002)

I also use Ed's method for nocking points. Will not move and easy to take off and replace. The fastset AA glue works great as the starter and a final coat of the thinner supper glue to finish it off. I use a finger nail file to shape the nock points after the glue sets and a final coat of string wax. :thumbs_up 

Stan


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## Leighton (Aug 24, 2004)

When I tie on the nock points, I find Halo works best.


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## Jim C (Oct 15, 2002)

the best two things for these nocks are 1) the stuff BCY sells specifically for it though some find it a bit thick and 2) the cheap polybraid BCY stuff. Halo is too slick IMHO especially if you you crown or halo center serving. the stuff i mentioned has a rough texture and grips better. I believe Jurassic Archer suggested tehy polybraid stuff and I now like it better than the nock point thread sold by BCY.

I put on the superglue gel-tie overhand knots and coat it with super glue . let it dry, burn the ends and clip them with a nail clipper


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## atyau (Oct 11, 2004)

Jim C said:


> Halo is too slick IMHO especially if you you crown or halo center serving. .


Thats interesting, the reason I switched to halo over #2 was because it had better "grip". Like after a few hundered shots (wo any type of glue, just tight knots) I would find that my top nocking point would move a couple turns...
While with halo, while it still moves it taks a thousand + shots...I use ASB Center Serv, maybe that might have something to do with it dunno....

But, I do highly reccomend Eds way of tying nocks because it looks nicer :wink:


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## Jim C (Oct 15, 2002)

atyau said:


> Thats interesting, the reason I switched to halo over #2 was because it had better "grip". Like after a few hundered shots (wo any type of glue, just tight knots) I would find that my top nocking point would move a couple turns...
> While with halo, while it still moves it taks a thousand + shots...I use ASB Center Serv, maybe that might have something to do with it dunno....
> 
> But, I do highly reccomend Eds way of tying nocks because it looks nicer :wink:


if it works for you use it. halo is slick-that is why we don't use it on a compound string where a loop is going to be used-

btw I like the knot method since it gives a good hard "edge" that the nock won't jump over like you will get with dental floss. Leighton's guru Chris Shull described the method I use in a recent magazine article. Maybe its an Ohio thing


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## apostolis (Jun 26, 2005)

I use the method described here:
http://www.bowsite.com/bowsite/features/practical_bowhunter/tieone/ 

Usually I do it with nylon fishing twine. It grips really well and the nock doesn't move at all (perhaps because nylon is stretchy). And no super glue, I just take a pin, heat the edge and carefully melt together some of the nylon strands around the nock. 

This makes a nock that:
1) Is so easy to adjust with ridiculous accuracy. You can get something like +/- 0.002" adjustments by twisting it around the string.
2) Doesn't move. At least in my really low poundage bow (28lbs), even if I dry fire, the nock doesn't move a bit. 

You can also put some super glue which will make the nock harder by appying a small amount on a needle and spreading it around the nocking point without touching the serving. If done correctly this will leave the nock still adjustable.


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## Jim C (Oct 15, 2002)

apostolis said:


> I use the method described here:
> http://www.bowsite.com/bowsite/features/practical_bowhunter/tieone/
> 
> Usually I do it with nylon fishing twine. It grips really well and the nock doesn't move at all (perhaps because nylon is stretchy). And no super glue, I just take a pin, heat the edge and carefully melt together some of the nylon strands around the nock.
> ...


this is what I described above but the article makes it easier to understand. Chris Shull (former national junior champion 1300 fita archer) wrote a very good article on this a few months back in Archery Focus IIRC


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## sadarcher (Jun 29, 2005)

atyau said:


> I use halo, works best IMO...I am sure that crown or asb would also work well, but much more expensive....


Crown is not more expensive than Halo. It's a marketing thing. You get more on the spool from Brownell with Crown. BCY puts less on the spool to make it appear less expensive. Actually per yard, Halo is much more expensive.

.018 Crown 120 yds @$22 = 18c yd
.019 Halo 75 yds @$20 = 27c yd

.026 Crown 65 yds @$22 = 33c yd
.024 Halo 45 yds @$20 = 44c yd


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## Leighton (Aug 24, 2004)

Doesn't really matter what you use, it matters more that you tie it on very tight.


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