# The beginner's choice for arrows



## Varza (Sep 11, 2014)

I use Easton tributes - cheap and durable enough, I suppose. Mostly cheap. And aluminium arrows are generally decent enough for the likes of me.


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## JimB1 (Feb 18, 2013)

Any of the Easton xx75 models are good starter arrows. Pretty sturdy and forgiving but at lower weight you give up distance because they are heavier then Carbon arrows. Indoors it's not a big deal, outdoors over 30m is when carbons really become a must at lower bow weight. As a beginner, I'd say stay at 20m indoor or outdoor with aluminum for a while and get used to shooting and getting your form and muscles built up for a bit. 

That said I just got some CI super clubs and they are very nice arrows.
JMHO
-Jim


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## c365 (May 15, 2013)

Welcome vephyr! it would be very helpful if you listed all your gear, (look at the first sticky at top of page) as is, there is no description of you or your equipment in your post. To recommend an arrow, the gear and person that's going to shoot it makes a difference.


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## beerbudget (Feb 5, 2011)

What c365 said. We can't help you with the arrows unless you identify your bow, draw weight & draw length.


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## vephyr (Apr 11, 2015)

JimB1 said:


> Any of the Easton xx75 models are good starter arrows. Pretty sturdy and forgiving but at lower weight you give up distance because they are heavier then Carbon arrows. Indoors it's not a big deal, outdoors over 30m is when carbons really become a must at lower bow weight. As a beginner, I'd say stay at 20m indoor or outdoor with aluminum for a while and get used to shooting and getting your form and muscles built up for a bit.
> 
> That said I just got some CI super clubs and they are very nice arrows.
> JMHO
> -Jim


This certainly gives me some insight on what to go for! Thank you for the input 



c365 said:


> Welcome vephyr! it would be very helpful if you listed all your gear, (look at the first sticky at top of page) as is, there is no description of you or your equipment in your post. To recommend an arrow, the gear and person that's going to shoot it makes a difference.


Thanks! Sorry about that, please see below:
-SF Forged+ 25" Riser
-Short 20# Axiom Limbs
-Draw Length is approx. 26.75"
- and currently shooting with a finger tab


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## GBUSA (Jun 6, 2013)

CI Super Clubs 10/20 spine. Leave em full length to start.
Use the blue low temp hot melt on the points and you'll be able to get em out running them under hot water if you need to trim em down as you increase draw weight.


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## vephyr (Apr 11, 2015)

GBUSA said:


> CI Super Clubs 10/20 spine. Leave em full length to start.
> Use the blue low temp hot melt on the points and you'll be able to get em out running them under hot water if you need to trim em down as you increase draw weight.


In the case of short distances (ie. as mentioned above <30m) what would the advantage of these be vs grabbbing Easton Tributes or Jazz arrows?


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

vephyr said:


> In the case of short distances (ie. as mentioned above <30m) what would the advantage of these be vs grabbbing Easton Tributes or Jazz arrows?


Durability, findability...

Aluminums have more consistent spine than low or even medium end carbons. But they are also more prone to getting bent. Carbons, if they are straight, stay straight. But they are also more prone to catastrophic failure. We just had a Super Club break on one of our archers. It blew on release, sending the shaft down range minus the fletched end (it separated a few inches below the fletches). The bow draw weight is in 20s, so we are not talking a huge acceleration force. Fortunately, nobody was injured. But, AFIK, most blown arrows these days are carbon rather than aluminum. Carbon arrows can have invisible or near invisible fractures and need to be inspected frequently. 

Second, and this may not apply to you, but aluminum arrows are way easier to find with a metal detector when they are hidden in the grass than carbons. 

Aluminum arrows are a good value for many, especially where distance isn't a factor.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

I tend to recommend the Easton Carbon One arrows. They are typically a little more money than most beginners want to spend but they have decent spine consistency and offer enough spine choices that you can find an arrow that will match most setups. I steer beginners away from aluminum's because at the spine rating that most beginners need the aluminum's will bend rather easily. Simply missing the target has a strong potential of rendering the arrow useless. I had one archer that was not particularly skilled yet purchase aluminum arrows against my recommendation because the local shop told them that's what they should shoot. The archer managed to bend 3 arrows in the first night. I managed to stay mute on the subject and the parent came up to me after the class and apologized and admitted maybe they should have listen to me. 

True more carbon arrows fail but that may be because there are 75% of the arrows being sent down range are carbon. Also an aluminum arrow that is about to fail will be severely bent and obvious that it is unusable. So yes carbon arrows can fail so checking them regularly for cracks by flexing them next to your ear and listening for the sounds of crackling noises is a good idea. I've been involved with our youth program for nearly 9 years now and have yet to have a failure, but I do request that anyone who thinks they may have damaged an arrow let me know right away. I also make a point of thanking and applauding the archer when they catch a damaged arrow. Given our failure rate 0 I have to say that the risk although real is easily mitigated.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

Warbow, Actually that was a Medallion XR 1000 that failed. I'm guessing was hit by another arrow at some point and wasn't checked..


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## mrcina (Dec 2, 2013)

How easily do aluminum shafts bend? Do they bend when you hit the wood or each other?


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## vephyr (Apr 11, 2015)

The idea of a damaged carbon arrow splintering / failing on release is terrifying. I certainly need to learn how to properly flex arrows / check them prior to shooting.

On that note maybe that's why I'm a little more curious to go down the Al arrow route (well, that and cost since they seem cheaper!)




b0w_bender said:


> I tend to recommend the Easton Carbon One arrows. They are typically a little more money than most beginners want to spend but they have decent spine consistency and offer enough spine choices that you can find an arrow that will match most setups. I steer beginners away from aluminum's because at the spine rating that most beginners need the aluminum's will bend rather easily. Simply missing the target has a strong potential of rendering the arrow useless. I had one archer that was not particularly skilled yet purchase aluminum arrows against my recommendation because the local shop told them that's what they should shoot. The archer managed to bend 3 arrows in the first night. I managed to stay mute on the subject and the parent came up to me after the class and apologized and admitted maybe they should have listen to me. .


Although, by what you're saying it certainly seems like getting Aluminum arrows will end up costing me more because I'll more than likely bend a number of them, which makes sense.

How do the Easton Carbon Ones compare to my current Carbon Express Predator IIs?


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

dchan said:


> Warbow, Actually that was a Medallion XR 1000 that failed. I'm guessing was hit by another arrow at some point and wasn't checked..


Doh! 

The SCs have really held up better than I had expected. No more arrow straitening for you. And breakage is pretty minimal. I lost a few of my SCs to steel bale fittings, but that would have likely broken my AL arrows as well. 

As to the break, it was right where the back node would be, so I do wonder if that is realated. I also found a similar separation on another arrow near bale 1 (not a club arrow).


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

mrcina said:


> How easily do aluminum shafts bend? Do they bend when you hit the wood or each other?


How easy to bend depends on material and model. X7's don't bend nearly as easily however they are more brittle. XX75 or XX78 tend to be softer so they bend easier. Thinner (lighter spines) bend easier. 

When do they bend, All of the above including improper pulling from a bale, stepping on them, missing the bale (ground or hard items on floor), etc. in the case of very thin arrows (like 1214's) just gripping them too tight when pulling them can bend them. Grabbing multiple arrows while pulling them or holding an arrow in the hand while trying to pull a second or third arrow can bend them.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

vephyr said:


> The idea of a damaged carbon arrow splintering / failing on release is terrifying. I certainly need to learn how to properly flex arrows / check them prior to shooting.


We've broken many an AL arrow as well. I've seen them fail and shatter on release as well. (x7's anyway) all the xx75's I've seen fail are usually a folded arrow or severely bent arrow.

Yes, Everyone that shoots should learn how to check their arrows regardless of what kind they are. A small dent in an AL arrow could be a problem as well.

The only way I've seen the woven carbon arrows catastrophically is by snapping. The ones that scare me are the extruded carbon arrows. Every Beman arrow I've found on the range that was broken was scary to pick (extremely sharp shards) up let alone think of what might have happened if it came apart upon shooting. I have one in our "teaching" collection to show people how to flex test carbons.


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## vephyr (Apr 11, 2015)

dchan said:


> The only way I've seen the woven carbon arrows catastrophically is by snapping. The ones that scare me are the extruded carbon arrows. Every Beman arrow I've found on the range that was broken was scary to pick (extremely sharp shards) up let alone think of what might have happened if it came apart upon shooting. I have one in our "teaching" collection to show people how to flex test carbons.


On that note, how can you tell the two arrows apart? Is there anything visually to tell whether the arrow is a carbon extrusion vs woven carbon?


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

If you cut and assemble your own arrows you can usually tell. I just know Beman arrows are extruded, Carbon Impact arrows are woven. I am pretty sure Carbon Express is a woven or wrapped construction based on the way the Medallion failed (and after having cut and assembled several)


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## vephyr (Apr 11, 2015)

dchan said:


> If you cut and assemble your own arrows you can usually tell. I just know Beman arrows are extruded, Carbon Impact arrows are woven. I am pretty sure Carbon Express is a woven or wrapped construction based on the way the Medallion failed (and after having cut and assembled several)


Alright, I'll keep that in mind and stick with CIs or Carbon Express if I do make a purchase in the near future


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## Azzurri (Mar 10, 2014)

Get some aluminums with feathers, I started with platinum pluses. At the 10/15/20 distances a beginning archer should start at, that setup will work inside and out, and be as accurate as you are. That should even get a noob out to 40 or 50 later on if you want (out a little past that the weight and wind and feathers catch up to you....but that's likely a little while off). At around that crossover I'd look at lighter carbons. I use the Carbon Impacts outside for 900/70m type distances because they are light and will fly, are inexpensive and do the job alright. But to me they (carbons period) are a little fast and twitchy for indoor work for a noob. Won't group as well and want to take off when you send a flyer. Can be instructive but basically a punishing setup on purpose.


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## vephyr (Apr 11, 2015)

Azzurri said:


> Get some aluminums with feathers, I started with platinum pluses. At the 10/15/20 distances a beginning archer should start at, that setup will work inside and out, and be as accurate as you are. That should even get a noob out to 40 or 50 later on if you want (out a little past that the weight and wind and feathers catch up to you....but that's likely a little while off). At around that crossover I'd look at lighter carbons. I use the Carbon Impacts outside for 900/70m type distances because they are light and will fly, are inexpensive and do the job alright. But to me they (carbons period) are a little fast and twitchy for indoor work for a noob. Won't group as well and want to take off when you send a flyer. Can be instructive but basically a punishing setup on purpose.


Alright, thank you! 
I'm certainly looking at the xx75s from Easton at this point as well


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## Azzurri (Mar 10, 2014)

vephyr said:


> Alright, thank you!
> I'm certainly looking at the xx75s from Easton at this point as well


My brother has used both the Gamegetters and the Tributes and they worked ok for him. The Gamegetters are only spined like 300-500 and probably not right for a beginner. The Tributes are in broader spines and seem to work fine but the downside on them would be the nock setup is nocks you glue on cones. That being said they are less expensive for a new archer. FWIW I got him the Tributes as a birthday present "complete" from 3Rivers:

http://www.3riversarchery.com/Easton+Tribute+Aluminum+Arrows_i6806X_variablekit.html

Personally I started with the PPs and would recommend them higher, but the ones you're looking at would be fine to start.


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## GBUSA (Jun 6, 2013)

I have a couple dozen of the factory, feather fletched Easton Tributes and they work just fine if you avoid hitting hard objects. I've bent a couple and had feathers blow off on hard surface impacts.
My X7's and Platinum Plus aluminums are certainly a far better arrow, but you pay for it up front.

I also have a dozen of the 3Rivers fletched Tributes and gave some away a few weeks ago. They shoot just fine for me and for him from what I was told.
The 3Rivers feathers hold up a good bit better than the factory fletched versions.

The factory fletched Tributes at Lancaster are a bit less expensive then the 3Rivers 4" fletched just an fyi.

With 20# limbs and the shorter draw, the heavy aluminums will be pretty slow, but should give you a good point on for close distance shots.
The Carbon Impacts will give you some speed and lower your elevation if shooting them at any decent distance.

Good luck.


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

Victory VAP's blow away C1's for performance and overall value. Not sure why anyone would choose a C1 over a VAP. 

My wife is shooting their V6's and her first end at 70 meters Monday night was a 50. 

I'm going to have to get some of their V1's and see what they are capable of. For now, I'm very impressed with these arrows.


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## wags2 (Jan 26, 2009)

I would recommend the platinum plus arrows with 3inch feathers and inserts not glue in points, so you can change tip weight easily to get good arrow flight. An arrow with a thick wall will not bend as easy and be more durable, don't be afraid of aluminum arrows. I have some I use for hunting and 3d out of my compound, they are only about 10 years old. I wouldn't worry about the material of your arrows right now but find some that you can get tuned as well as possible. My daughter is shooting the super Cubs, great arrows for the money also, order a few each from Lancaster and figure out which you like the best and will tune.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

I've been impressed with the few VAP arrows I've seen as well. 

FYI Addicted to archery has real good prices on pre-made Alloy arrows. Tributes and Jazz With Vanes are 57.00 doz, With feathers 66.00 doz. Add points for about 1.00 each (depending your options) and they will arrive at your door completely assembled. If you want Tributes, you can place the order as "Jazz" arrows tell them you want Tributes instead. The ones we ordered have held up great.

Platinum plus are about 79.00/doz for vanes and 86.00/doz for feathers.

They were always good with contacting me and great customer service from my dealings with them.

http://www.addictedtoarchery.com/aluminum-vaned-arrows-214.html

DC


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

limbwalker said:


> Victory VAP's blow away C1's for performance and overall value. Not sure why anyone would choose a C1 over a VAP.
> 
> My wife is shooting their V6's and her first end at 70 meters Monday night was a 50.
> 
> I'm going to have to get some of their V1's and see what they are capable of. For now, I'm very impressed with these arrows.


Big +1 here, especially now that all VAP components are made by Top Hat.

-Grant


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## vephyr (Apr 11, 2015)

I'm certainly glad I asked, all the feedback has been helpful!

At least now, I have a bit more direction in terms of what would be good to start with.
I can go the Al route with Easton Jazz / Tribute , or throw a bit more money in a get Platinum Plus's (with my current setup do 1516s sound about right?)

Or with carbons I can go with the CI Super Clubs, stick with Carbon Express Predator IIs, or Victory VAPs , or Easton Carbon Ones

It seems only a few of these can be bough pre-fletched on LAS?


EDIT:


dchan said:


> I've been impressed with the few VAP arrows I've seen as well.
> 
> FYI Addicted to archery has real good prices on pre-made Alloy arrows. Tributes and Jazz With Vanes are 57.00 doz, With feathers 66.00 doz. Add points for about 1.00 each (depending your options) and they will arrive at your door completely assembled. If you want Tributes, you can place the order as "Jazz" arrows tell them you want Tributes instead. The ones we ordered have held up great.
> 
> ...


Ah! I missed your post.
I'm looking at their site now, I was certainly looking for places to get them fully if not partially assembled to make life easier.
...Seems like I should learn how to fletch arrows in the near future to make purchases "easier"


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

vephyr said:


> I'm certainly glad I asked, all the feedback has been helpful!
> 
> At least now, I have a bit more direction in terms of what would be good to start with.
> I can go the Al route with Easton Jazz / Tribute , or throw a bit more money in a get Platinum Plus's (with my current setup do 1516s sound about right?)
> ...


I usually lump pretty large orders together. being in a club where people are always asking for help to order, I can very often get above the 350.00 for free shipping but 9.99 flat rate for shipping is pretty hard to beat.

Lancaster is 250.00 for free shipping. That's an easy one because there are always supplies we can use on the range. I keep a list on my computer of things we will need, supplies that we have enough of but can always uses a few more. Then when someone asks, I can almost always get a free shipping by tossing in a few of these items.

And yes it's worth learning how to fletch your own arrows. Then you can repair them as the fletches get torn of or worn out.

Even a simple BPE or other jig is worth it if you only do a couple vanes a month. If you need to do lots however, Bitz is the gold standard.


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## huckduck (Nov 24, 2014)

Plats will last you for a good long time until you itch to get to carbons.


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## vephyr (Apr 11, 2015)

huckduck said:


> Plats will last you for a good long time until you itch to get to carbons.


Thanks for the reply! I'm certainly looking at those as well



dchan said:


> I usually lump pretty large orders together. being in a club where people are always asking for help to order, I can very often get above the 350.00 for free shipping but 9.99 flat rate for shipping is pretty hard to beat.
> 
> Lancaster is 250.00 for free shipping. That's an easy one because there are always supplies we can use on the range. I keep a list on my computer of things we will need, supplies that we have enough of but can always uses a few more. Then when someone asks, I can almost always get a free shipping by tossing in a few of these items.
> 
> ...


I'm looking at getting a jig now... Oh the want for more gear and things never ends! Fletching your own arrows doesn't look too too hard, hopefully I pick it up rather easily.
That'll certainly broaden my choices when ordering arrows online... no need to worry about whether they can come assembled or not.


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## vephyr (Apr 11, 2015)

Just a quick update 
I picked up a dozen Easton Jazz 1516s, left at full length and fletched with 3" feathers.


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## StarDog (Feb 17, 2007)

limbwalker said:


> Victory VAP's blow away C1's for performance and overall value. Not sure why anyone would choose a C1 over a VAP.
> 
> My wife is shooting their V6's and her first end at 70 meters Monday night was a 50.
> 
> I'm going to have to get some of their V1's and see what they are capable of. For now, I'm very impressed with these arrows.


Limbwalker Well so much for the local VAP dealer telling me V1's suck. He wants me to spend more $$ on V3's.

V6's come with tophat points right? What vanes is your wife using? She and I might be in the same ballpark as to DL and DW maybe. 

Or not. But I want to get a spine ballpark for when I spend some actual money on arrows.


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## StarDog (Feb 17, 2007)

vephyr said:


> Just a quick update
> I picked up a dozen Easton Jazz 1516s, left at full length and fletched with 3" feathers.


Good choice. And you can whittle off length if you need to.


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## erickatgta (Apr 22, 2013)

StarDog said:


> Limbwalker Well so much for the local VAP dealer telling me V1's suck. He wants me to spend more $$ on V3's.
> 
> V6's come with tophat points right? What vanes is your wife using? She and I might be in the same ballpark as to DL and DW maybe.
> 
> Or not. But I want to get a spine ballpark for when I spend some actual money on arrows.


Maybe I read it wrong.. but v1 is more expensive than v3 and support to be "better".


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

StarDog said:


> Limbwalker Well so much for the local VAP dealer telling me V1's suck. He wants me to spend more $$ on V3's.
> 
> V6's come with tophat points right? What vanes is your wife using? She and I might be in the same ballpark as to DL and DW maybe.
> 
> Or not. But I want to get a spine ballpark for when I spend some actual money on arrows.


Not sure which points they come with if they are assembled. I'd have to ask the folks at Lancasters that one. I buy just the shafts, then the tophat convex points and trim and assemble them myself. I used AAE Wav vanes for my wife's arrows, and green G-nocks. Yes, G-nocks will fit VAP's just fine (as will Beiter insert nocks and any other "A/C/E" sized nock. However the A/C/E point components will not fit the VAP's. They are just ever-so-slightly too big (the A/C/E components).

John


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## StarDog (Feb 17, 2007)

erickatgta said:


> Maybe I read it wrong.. but v1 is more expensive than v3 and support to be "better".


You read right. I wrote wrong . I meant V6's. The local retailer was poo pooing the V6's but I'd take John's word over someone trying to sell me a more spendy product.


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## StarDog (Feb 17, 2007)

limbwalker said:


> Not sure which points they come with if they are assembled. I'd have to ask the folks at Lancasters that one. I buy just the shafts, then the tophat convex points and trim and assemble them myself. I used AAE Wav vanes for my wife's arrows, and green G-nocks. Yes, G-nocks will fit VAP's just fine (as will Beiter insert nocks and any other "A/C/E" sized nock. However the A/C/E point components will not fit the VAP's. They are just ever-so-slightly too big (the A/C/E components).
> 
> John


Very nice, especially the G nock thing. I like small G nocks.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

I use Beiter 12/2 nocks in my VAPs and I also wouldn't bother going beyond the V6 unless I was really competitive.

-Grant


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

I'm seriously tempted to get a dozen V6 VAP's and shoot them against my NPX's just to see what kind of scores I can produce with them. I bet I can break 320 with them at 70.


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

limbwalker said:


> I'm seriously tempted to get a dozen V6 VAP's and shoot them against my NPX's just to see what kind of scores I can produce with them. I bet I can break 320 with them at 70.


I bet I could break 320 of them at 70 :embara:

Regardless, seeing how what you could do with them would be informative.


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

> Regardless, seeing how what you could do with them would be informative.


Just not sure I have $100 worth of curiosity to satisfy though. 

Kinda reminds me of when I shot my wood arrows at 70 meters through my Olympic bow. I wanted to see how important straightness and weight tolerances were vs. spine. I had a dozen wood arrows that were very closely matched in spine, but varied by nearly 30 grains in weight and were nowhere near straight. I shot more than one 50+ point end at 70M with those arrows. 

When I put my wife's V6's on my spine tester, they all passed muster. Then she shot them - all bare shafts - at 30 and even with her skill level, she still produced a very nice bare shaft group at 30 meters. More than enough to satisfy me that there were no real fliers in that dozen and they would be more than good enough for her.


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