# How do I repair screw holes in recurve?



## Jim Casto Jr (Aug 20, 2002)

No pro here, but I've filled several holes in bows. Some of them even turned out really well. :^) It depends on where they are; in the glass, in the wood, in the stripes, etc. In the glass you can easily add color to epoxy and fill the holes, sand it down and spray over with urethane. 

With wood, I'll usually sand around the hole and let the dust fall on a piece of paper. I mix the dust with epoxy and fill the hole.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

lunger - 

I don't know what's so dumb about putting a sight on the bow. Before "trad" became a word, more people than not used them. 

The method you described with saw dust and wood glue can work as can wood filler, then the felt tip magic marker and a refinish with a rub of Tru-oil. 
I've done a number that way, and the results ranged from good to excellent.

However, sometimes just inserting brass screws into the holes might be a better idea, just in case to decide to use a sight again. 
I also have number of bows, I'm still kicking myself over "fixing". 
Leaving yourself options isn't a bad idea.

Viper1 out.


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

By referring to yourself as "stupid" for installing sights on your bow you are also indicating that the many hundreds of us early bowhunters were also stupid. In the earlier days being Gucci was not vogue. We drilled, tapped, and painted bows that today are considered to be collectible and highly valued.

Filling in the screw holes are no biggy. 

- I use Loctite epoxy and fill small screw holes using a toothpick or a large needle. I prefer using a needle. 
-The trick is to get the dome of the epoxy just above the surface and then sanding it down flush without excessively marring the riser. 
-I do this by using a piece of 400-grit silicon carbide paper cut not much larger than the plug and sanding in a circular motion with my thumb.
-If the job requires color-matching I use acrylic paints from a hobby shop and a fine-tipped artist brush...cheap because you will likely throw in away.
-After the paint is thoroughly dry I smooth it down with 400-600 grit silicon carbide paper and then touch up the area with wipe-on, clear, gloss or semi-gloss polyurethane.

Others will their favorite methods.


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## lunger (Sep 2, 2006)

Thanks for the replies. Didn't mean to imply anyone else as stupid. Just referring to myself for being jealous of my friends compounds.

Can't see where I would want to use a sight again.

Maybe I'll try some practice on some scrap wood with some of your methods. Might post some before and after pictures.


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## reddogge (Jul 21, 2009)

Droptine has cut small plugs out of matching wood and used them to fill holes effectively. In glass it's easier by using epoxy and color it.


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## Nekekal (Dec 25, 2012)

I have used clear two part epoxy. Carefully done it is almost invisible.

But on the last bow, I just bought solid brass screws, and used them to fill the hole. Very small screws. I actually like the way it looks better, it was easier, and if I want to put the sight back on, the holes are drilled and tapped.


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## JParanee (Oct 13, 2009)

I like Vipers idea 

I'd drill out the holes and epoxy inserts in 

That will give it a finished look and again you have options


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## DaveWood (Aug 28, 2015)

I'll put in another vote for drilling out and filling with a dowel or plug of semi-matching wood epoxied in. You said wood screws so if the holes are not very big diameter and you might think drilling them out to plug might make things worse/weaker, I would go with a trick from my r/c airplane building/repairing - - If you fill the hole with baking soda first and then soak in thin (watery) viscosity superglue the mixture will fire off instantly and be hard enough that you almost can't file it - so don't go crazy - keep the baking soda in the holes!


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## lunger (Sep 2, 2006)

I used the clear Epoxy method. It is Ok but not sure I am satisfied. I may drill out and try wood dowels


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## Jim Casto Jr (Aug 20, 2002)

Going to repeat myself here. I wouldn't drill them out too deep. Looks like a 16th inch will be fine. I'd suggest sandiing your epoxy and finish off the riser down to the wood. Catch the dust from the wood on paper and mix it with a little epoxy, making a kind of paste and put it in the holes. 

As for the one below the medallion. I'd sand the same color wood the same way. Make an epoxy paste from the dust and fill it. Then, sand them down, and spray with urethane.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

lunger - 

Excuse my bluntness, but that looks like crap.

I would lightly sand down the finish around the fill marks and try to camouflage the areas with wood colored markers. Guardsmen makes a set of three that work pretty well. Start with the lightest and add darker as/if necessary. When satisfied, finish with a coat or more of Tru-oil. 

If the epoxy is still to "visible", CAREFULLY drill out only about 1/8" from the surface with the smallest diameter bit you can get away with (You don't and shouldn't try to remove all of it). Then fill with a paintable wood filler. Sand smooth and repeat the magic marker treatment.

Viper1 out.


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## rustycase (Oct 27, 2015)

Yah... what Viper1 said...

But Gosh, what a beautiful bow you have!
If you can spring for it, why don't you ask around, and have a professional do the refurb? It probably wouldn't even cost much, related to the value of such nice bow!
...That lower blem is Very close to the medallion, which will show accidental damage from scuffing with sandpaper.
Best
rc


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## lunger (Sep 2, 2006)

Jim C--I did try to catch dust on a sheet of paper but got so little it disappeared in the epoxy. I am leery about sanding to much .Afraid of making it worse

Viper--If you think that looks like crap you should have seen it before.Hence the dumb reference in my OP.I did buy two shades of wood markers both were darker than original wood and will not do anything on epoxy.I may try your suggestion with wood filler and lighter colored marker.

Rusty--Thanks for the complement on the bow.As said I bought it when I was a kid and have a sentimental attachment to it. I would gladly pay a pro for a repair but have not been able to find one.As said in my OP who would do it a bow maker? a furniture re finisher? 

Thanks for all replies


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## Captainkirk (Sep 18, 2014)

Try The Bow Hospital:

www.bowhospital.com
I have seen some of his work, really nice!


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## AkDan76 (Sep 5, 2014)

epoxy and wood dust.

Make a paste (obviously thin enough to fill the hole).

You want to practice this to get the right color combo with the epoxy and wood dust BEFORE youf ill the holes!!!! you can create a simple template with a piece of wood, drill a pile of holes, label and fill..wait till it drys, what you see as a dry wood or paste may NOT be what you get when its cured! sand and be done with it.


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## AkDan76 (Sep 5, 2014)

oh if and if you try and drill that epoxy out, have fun! that wood around it is MUCh softer than the epoxy! you could easily wander and end up with a bigger mess than you started with!


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## horseman308 (Apr 17, 2006)

This is a total long shot, but if the only issues is the cosmetics (I.e., there's nothing functional/structural that needs repair) and you can't find a good bow repair guy, you might consider finding a good guitar or other instrument luthier. They do that kind of repair all the time when people have made alterations to vintage or just nice guitars that need to be returned to original set-up. I don't know what city you're in or near, but that might be another option. The good one's aren't cheap, though.

Sent from my XT1056 using Tapatalk


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## Captainkirk (Sep 18, 2014)

horseman308 said:


> This is a total long shot, but if the only issues is the cosmetics (I.e., there's nothing functional/structural that needs repair) and you can't find a good bow repair guy, you might consider finding a good guitar or other instrument luthier. They do that kind of repair all the time when people have made alterations to vintage or just nice guitars that need to be returned to original set-up. I don't know what city you're in or near, but that might be another option. The good one's aren't cheap, though.
> 
> Sent from my XT1056 using Tapatalk


Good point!


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## rustycase (Oct 27, 2015)

Lunger, I have found an option you may wish to consider...

Start with this short video...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvFb9WNacbU
The fellow makes guitars, by hand, and uses the Timbermate wood filler as an inlay on the neck of a handmade guitar.
...That says something to me... all that labor, on top of the expense of materials, and he presents an option for inlay...
He drips a bit of Bob Smith super-thin CA on it after sanding it flush, then finish sands it. Good to go...
The Timbermate product is available on amazon, and the reviews, which I always read, seem to be quite positive.
Apparently the product is available in some color tones, and may be tinted further.

I would try it.

Then, do as Viper1 advised and mark grain lines upon the surface to match your bow's grain.
...I would use a fine tipped artist's brush, magnifying glass, and probably acrylic paint to connect the grain lines that are disturbed...
After total drying period, fine sand and begin putting on top coats of finish of your preference.

...If I were to take a drill bit to such a nice bow I would fasten it firmly in a jig on the table of a drill press and probably drill no more than 3/32 deep, 1/8" max...

Good luck 
rc


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## C Svach (Jun 8, 2011)

I bought an old green kmag with a couple quiver holes that were filled and looked pretty crappy. It was laying on kitchen counter top and I was showing my wife when my 5 year old said "Daddy I fix it for you" she came out of her toy room with a Dora sticker that fits right between the holes and said "Look Daddy Pretty!"

I will never take it off always makes me smile. Such a great solution plus u can still see the crummy patch job. We still have more stickers if you need one


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## lunger (Sep 2, 2006)

C Svach i think I like your daughters solution best of all. Kids have a way of showing you just how unimportant our little problems are


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## honig09 (Sep 14, 2015)

Good video. I'm going to try that myself.


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