# How to correct untwisted new strings?



## flag (Oct 4, 2009)

just get everything close to spec the best you can and adjust from there


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

take them and stretch them at 100lbs tension (untwisted ) and measure them then take that measurement and multiply that by.66 and that should give you the number of twists or at least get you close. i was just looking at my notes and there are 2 formulas that are used. multipling by the length x .66 =twists that i stated before and multipling length x .75 = twists do that then check your axle to axle and use which ever one gives you the right ATA


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Are the current strings are good and all of the measurements are where they should be?

If so, take as many measurements as you can think of, mark your cams and try to replicate this with the new strings. Use an arrow laid along side of the top cam to establish the cam lean.

You should do this any time you put on new strings. Even the most perfectly made strings won't be able to replicate the old strings. There is always a little adjusting that needs to be done. You just have a little more to do in this case.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

It's really not that big of a deal. The strings don't really need to be measured under tension again. Just twist them back to the length and put them on the bow. Then set the bow up. Your going to have to twist things to get the bow setup to you anyway.


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

i was thinking you would need to put some kind of tension on the string to get an accurate measurement of the length


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## JF from VA (Dec 5, 2002)

Technically, the standard way to measure strings and cables is under 100 lbs. tension. That said, even if every string is the specified length, one or more will probably have to be adjusted in some manner anyway when you bring the cams into time and the bow into spec. I would recommend just twisting the new ones to approximately the length of the old ones and then going from there. You can use the Hoyt tune charts to guide you in setting the correct brace height and axle-to-axle measurements.


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## 60X (Nov 8, 2002)

You should be able to get them close even without being under tension. My concern would be peep rotation given your scenario.


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## Praeger (Jan 7, 2011)

Call Viscosity Strings. I bet if you send them back, they'll re twist to correct length if you don't fee comfortable trying. If you twist them yourself without tension, they may take longer than otherwise to settle down, but eventually they will.


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

i'm sure Brian would be happy to retwist and settle them in for you


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## Deezlin (Feb 5, 2004)

60X said:


> You should be able to get them close even without being under tension. My concern would be peep rotation given your scenario.


I would agree. Basically, what I would suggest is never just twist a string. It needs to be under tension or you will have more twisting on one end of the string than the other. The string will rotate when drawn until the twisting is stablized. Your correct number of twists should be around .666 times the string final length. This is just a reference. Find a nail and a screwdriver. Place one end of the string around the nail that is secured in a post or vise. Place the screwdriver in the other end of the string loop. Pull quite a bit of tension and twist up the string using the screw driver. You can even put in half the twisting on one end of the string, reverse the string and continue twist. 
When you are setting up the bow, adding tiwsting to the cables increases the poundage and draw length. Twisting up the string decreases draw length.


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## AngelRa (Nov 15, 2010)

If you have the equipment, this is a 5 minute job.

I would use the Hoyt tune charts, or the sticker in your bottom limb, for the proper lengths. Use the standard AMO compound string length method to match tune chart. Not using the chart or not following the proper procedure will lead you to extra wasted time re-adjusting once in the bow when nothing squares.

AMO compound string length standard: Determined by placing the string loops over 1/4" diameter posts and stretching with 100 lbs. of tension. Measurement is taken from the outside of one post to the outside of the other post.


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## macnimation (Nov 30, 2010)

Thanks for all the advice.
I'll try the various methods offered and see what happens!


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## bkvisco (Apr 27, 2005)

Just give me a call and i'll explain what to do. Not a big deal. However............do NOT put any tention on them till there twisted. Our stretching is well over 100 lbs..lol The material under the serving is still twisted. If you put any tention of the strings in the untwisted state there in, the matirial under the serve will quickly untwist and lossen the grip of the serving.


Brian


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

BowBaker1640 said:


> take them and stretch them at 100lbs tension (untwisted )


DO NOT take the untwisted string and put it at 100# tension at all....not a good idea to put tension on it untwisted as under the servings will still be twisted up.


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## ex-wolverine (Dec 31, 2004)

BH is Exactly right

To the OP 

Believe it or not you could pull twists from out of the serving if you tension it while its straight...

Just attach the string to the Top cam grab the bottom loop and twist , you will be able to tell when you are close or when you exceed his twist rate as you will feel some resistance when you get to that point...or you will see the bundles start to bunch up...Then you have gone too far

You will be fine , 



Brown Hornet said:


> It's really not that big of a deal. The strings don't really need to be measured under tension again. Just twist them back to the length and put them on the bow. Then set the bow up. Your going to have to twist things to get the bow setup to you anyway.


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## ex-wolverine (Dec 31, 2004)

ooops I didnt see Brians response...sorry about that Brian...


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## bkvisco (Apr 27, 2005)

Lol no problem at all. as long as he get the right imfo. Thats all that matters


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## macnimation (Nov 30, 2010)

Hi All.

thanks again for the advise.

What I have done in the meantime is the following as I do not have the ability to add 100# of tension on a string anyway:

I measured the strings and cables against an existing set of strings that I know are correct length.

I added twists to the bottom of the strings to bring them into line with the measured set.

I connected the strings.

I found then that on full draw, the top Cam was way off timing, it was almost 45 deg forward when the bottom cam was engaged correctly.

With the help of some club shooters, I added 3 to 4 twists to the Control Cable and both cams came into sync, at full draw the wall felt solid, compared to a very soft wall previously. The ATA is also now correct at 40.25 inches. it Was 40.5inches

My Brace height is correct 8 inches also.

Only thing now is my draw length is 28.5 inches. It should be 28 inches. I am using the GTX Cam 1/2 with Cam module #3 set at position D, which is correct.

So, what do I do to correctly to bring the draw length to 28 inches?
Should I simply add twists to the bow string?
I have not touched the Buss cable, which concerns me as I think I would need to do something with it as I added twists to the Control Cable?

I was shooting last week and I was hitting everything eccept the target was was very frustrating, but I know it is mainly due to the tuning being out. I just would like to get to the stage where I can be confident that the bow is tuned, and that all mistakes after that are me, not the bow.

Any advise on my progress would be appreciated.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Put in a call to Brian. He knows more about it than most and is a great guy to work with.
This is a Hoyt bow and he's on Hoyt's pro staff (not sure exactly what that means). He's been doing this for a long time at a high level. Likely there are few others that could help you better. 
JMHO,
Allen


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## macnimation (Nov 30, 2010)

At anew stage now.

I took off the strings and cables and comparing them to a new set of Winners Choices from an identical bow and set up used by a friend, I found that they were not correct and so twisted all strings and cables to match.

All cables and strings were now 1/8 inch shorter than spec which matches the Winners Choices set of strings.

I put them on and the changes were obvious...but...

The Draw weight is 60.4 and it should be 62.3 when the limbs are maxed out, based on the draw weight from factory out of the box, this may not be critical?

The Bow is set for 28 inch draw length but is now 28.5
The Top cam hits first with the bottom Cam having 1/2 cm gap between the string and stop.

So I need advise on the correct twisting required to get the bow to the correct 28 inch draw length and also sync the cams while keeping at least 60#?

Strange thing though is that my friend put the Winners Choice strings on his bow and it also measured 28.5 on a 28 inch module?

cheers


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

I'm not real familiar with the cams on the Hoyt but generally speaking you want to get your cams timed to where you want them before you start measuring draw length. and ATA and so on. After you are timed you can start adding twists to the string or cables or both to tweak the bow within the desired specs.

To time the cams take a look at them and at full draw a draw board is handy for this. pick the cable that if you hypothetically pulled on it a little more it would rotate the cam in the desired direction. Mark it and then press the bow and add some twists to the marked cable. Alternatively, take the opposite cable from the one you marked and subtract some twists. Since your draw is already a little long the latter may make more sense in your case.

Once you have everything rotating the way you want then check your measurements again. adding more twists to the string will shorten the draw and or subtracting twists from the cables to shorten the draw. Just remember once the timing is set you need to duplicate the changes to both cables if you adjust the cables.

keep us informed.


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## macnimation (Nov 30, 2010)

I have decided to leave all alone for the moment.

Everything is in Spec now except the draw length.

ATA is correct
Brace is correct
Draw weight is correct
Cams are timed at full draw.

Investigating further I found that several Hoyt owners, which also surprised them when we measured, had draw lengths approximately 1/2 longer that they thought.
If the bow had 27.5 modules, it measured at 28, if it was a 29 module, it measured 29.5, so it might be a Hoyt measurement factor.

So my draw is a 28 module but actually measures 28.5, I will live with it. It is comfortable. The bow is shooting fine now

Its a pity though there is not a definitive article on the effects of twisting and untwisting the Control or Buss cables with measured examples.

Thanks for all the advise.


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