# Tie on nock point?



## Harperman

Finger_Flinger said:


> Anyone know how to tie on a nock point? I really much prefer them over brass nock point because I can twist them up and down the string for tuning and they seem less damaging.
> 
> A description with photos would be fantastic!


.Finger Flinger, I cant do pics, but pics really arent needed.....Use the brass nockset, until Your happy with the tune....Stick a little peice of white typing paper on the bottom limb, near the riser...Write down the brace height, tiller, and nock point location that tunes the best...Cover this with clear Packing tape....Once the brass nockset tune in pleasing, tie a square not with a peice of serving string, dental floss, or heavy weight braided fishing line as close to the bottom of the brass nockset as possible....tie another square not over top of this first knot, making it tight...Remove the brass nockset, and continue making square knots, on alternate sides of the bow string, till You get about 4 or 5 knots stacking up vertically...Repeat these square knots, tying them back down the string, toward the first knot....Tie it off, burn it, and if You want to, (I usually did, with the Trad bows)..Coat the knot with clear Fingernail polish....I have used the knots that can be screwed up and down the string, but they always moved....Also, the string serving that is used on new strings is the soft braid of one sort or another, and it is difficult to make these knotted nocksets work like they did on the older Monofilament string servings...maybe not the info that You wanted , but I hope that it helped....Take care...Jim


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## Finger_Flinger

I just found this which is helpful in addition to Jim's advice.

http://www.archery.org.au/lib/pdf/tieonnockingpoints.pdf


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## bowjunkie2

I've used tied nocks for years tying them just like that. I use BCY #3D waxed serving thread because it seems to cinch down tighter when making the half hitches.I finish off with a small dab of super glue to the final square knot. What I like about these nock points are they do save some weight but more importantly is I have never had one slip on me.


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## ProtecMan

Be careful with the super glue, I have seen the string breakdown underneath the center serving. Took me a while to figure that one out, but I have heard other people voice the same thing.


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## ia bhtr

ProtecMan said:


> Be careful with the super glue, I have seen the string breakdown underneath the center serving. Took me a while to figure that one out, but I have heard other people voice the same thing.


I agree with this , all I have ever done is tie off the ends , burn the tags off with a lighter and have never had an issue with one coming undone

also , to the original thought of this post , I have always tied mine in tight so that they wouldnt move once I figured where they needed to be , if I am off a little with the knot , it is generally very minor and depending upon which rest I am using at the time , either fine tune with the rest , or tweak a limb bolt a very small amt to get things where they need to be


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## bowjunkie2

I agree, that's why I said I use a DAB of super glue. What I do is put a drop of super glue on a piece of cardboard then use a wooden toothpick to control the small amount I put just on the finishing knot only.


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## Fingerdog56

*Lo-Profile Tied in*

I shoot 2 fingers split, and had problems w/brass, & even square knot tied-in nok-sets beating up the bottom of my index finger. Instead of a series of square knots, I use just a single overhand knot, (half a square knot) tied in the same way. Wax your material well, to get the knots to stay put. Tie in three or four overhands on opposite sides of the string, and lay the tag ends along the serving towards the top wheel. Then take waxed dental floss and tie in 2 layers over the tags (about 1/16" long); start @ the nok-set and build a taper from nok-set diameter to serving diameter. Tie it off like you'd tie off a serving end with a blind knot. Sometimes it's a pain in the butt to get the floss to lay over the tag ends without pulling that last overhand loose, (that's why the wax) but when you're all done, you have a very low profile nok-set about 1/8" tall, with a taper on top. Oh, and don't tie in the floss too tightly, Iv;e had a number of the old fast-flight material strings break @ the nok-set without ever having shot an arrow through them. And this is NOT moveable once it's tied in. I've been shooting this forever, and have yet to find anything that works better for me.:darkbeer:


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