# Setting Mathews alignment holes on cam?



## dietz (Aug 14, 2003)

Setting up my bow for 3D; I checked the alignment holes on the cam of my Q2XL last night. The straight edge when lined up with the holes point to the riser. I'm pretty positive I need to add twists to the cable to bring it in line with the sting. What is the proper procedure?

Do I twist the cable at the yokes by the idler wheel decreasing the depth of the yoke, or do I twist each strand equal amounts on each side of the yoke where it splits off from the cable? 
The yoke of the cable is not served; winners choice string and cables.

Does the bow have to be cranked all the way down to check alignment?

How many turns off the limb bolts should I make prior to putting it in a press?

Thank you for your reply!


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## AnthonyW (Apr 25, 2005)

This is a very important thing with a mathews always make sure cam is timed. With a bow pressTake cable off of cam and add about 3-4 twists check position then add a couple more if needed.


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## L-Roy (May 22, 2002)

*Don't just twist the*

cable without complete system analysis. You need to know the ATA of your bow and take that into account before just twisting the cable to align the holes.


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## deadeye270 (Jan 9, 2005)

lroy is right. You need to adjust your ATA with the cable and adjust the cam timing with adding/removing twist to the string.


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## FLBowHunter2 (Mar 31, 2004)

As mentioned, twist the cable at the cam, not the yokes.
ATA and brace is checked with the limbs tightened all the way down. 
For cam allignment, check it with the bow at the poundage you will be shooting.
I back the limb bolts out 8 full turns each before pressing.

If you're shooting your bow with the limbs maxed, this is pretty simple. 
Best of luck.


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## RobN (Dec 2, 2004)

*Mathews Set Up*

I agree with what has been said - when I set up my Mathews I follow the following steps:
1. Set the ATA and brace heights to the proper specs - with the limbs backed out I will usually bring the ATA about 1/8" in tighter than spec and when I tighten the limbs down I am usually pretty close to spec- the 1/8" of an inch will vary from model to model - but you can figure yours out after a couple of trys.
2. I will then adjust the cam timing - someone on here posted a nice procedure using red WD-40 "tube" to place in the timing holes if you search you can probably find it - I liked this procedure better than what I was doing - the gest of the procedure was place the "red tubes" in the cam timing holes and using a string level and a level on the "red tubes" you can really nail down the timing.
3. I also agree to adjust the cable at the cam unless you find your ATA is different on one side of the bow vs the other side at that point you will need to adjust on one side of the yoke or the other.


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## elkhunter (Jun 7, 2002)

I have had good luck putting round wooden toothpicks in the holes, and then laying a wooden yardstick across the toothpicks, and taking two measurements from the stick to the string, one near the cam end, and the other near the idler wheel end to see if the holes align with the string. If there is a difference then I merely twist the harness however needed until I get the measurements to come into sync.


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## evworld (Dec 16, 2004)

The bow specs must be checked at max poundage. All measurements are taken at max pounds. On the Q2xl it is more important to get brace height correct rather than ATA. The holes should run parallel with the string with the bow at max pounds and with correct brace height. When that is accomplished what ever your ATA comes out to be leave it there.


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