# Recommendation for first bow



## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

Hi all, 

I'm looking to get my first bow and need some feedback:

Experience: Still relatively new to archery. 

Objective: I do see myself committing to this, and want to excel at it, so I am looking to get something good and that will really last. 

Competitive:? Not sure at the moment.

Budget: Pretty decent but not looking to splurge or be too excessive either. 

My stature: 5 feet 4.

The riser: I had my eye on the Nexus then found out they no longer manufacture it. :-/

What would be the next to consider? Horizon Pro or Excel Pro? What's the difference between these two?

Any recommendations on limbs? 

Thanks!


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## jtang (Nov 22, 2012)

First, welcome to AT  Being new myself, I found this thread immensely helpful:
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1588147

Later down the thread is a list for an Olympic style setup.


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## PhotoDuck (Jul 17, 2004)

Honestly, I would say go used to start. Get a higher model bow than you can for your budget if it were new, but in a previous release which will end up being less money. Especially sights and stabilizers, not much sense buying new.

Long ago, i started off with a Samick, i shot awesome with it, some of my best score ever. Though, it wasnt the one the olympians were using. So, i blamed the gear. dropping a point or 2 couldnt have been me, must be the gear. Well, I upgraded, my scores tanked. I over bowed myself. Limbs too heavy, couldn't get it tuned, etc. Spent alot, didn't get better. I wasn't really ready for the best stuff year to try to get the extra points.

I eventually worked up to the gear level and poundage, and it lasted me 18 years and is still going strong (yamaha eolla). That's where quality gear can be worth it's money, it'll last a long time if properly cared for. 

As a just starter, I would certainly say hold off on buying an expensive bow, even expensive limbs. The poundage you pull, and style you are comfortable with today are much different than you will want in 1-2 years from now. 

You say you want a good bow, but what about accessories? A sight never really changes. The designs of them today are the same as 20 years ago. Some just have carbon bars. Your sight and stabilizers should be thought about before the bow in my opinion. What total amount you are looking to pay for those. That can be deducted (and of course, used on those will work exactly the same as new). Whats left over, figure a decent used setup riser/limbs. 

Certainly TRY OUT a bow style you are interested in before buying it (machined aluminum vs cast magnesium riser. one shape of machined vs another). Weight of a bow can certainly change the feel of it.

As far as differences between the horizon pro/excel pro... the horizon is a little more rounded in the front, and where the limb bolt is is shaped slightly different. That's seriously about it. They will shoot the exact same scores in the same hands. One other thing to think about these 2, they are 25" risers. Short limbs are 66" If you are 5'4" try out a 66" bow, and a 64" bow and see what feels better. (more than likely the 66" but you never know)


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## icehaven (Nov 30, 2010)

please, please go to a pro-shop that specializes in archery. Above all and everything else, get someone to help you in person. DON'T buy anything until you try it in person and don't buy anything online unless you know for sure why you are buying it. So many people buy things that end up hurting them both physically and mentally (as in discourages you).

The difference between the Horizon Pro and the Excel pro is that the Horizon Pro has adjustable limb alignment. What this means is that if your limbs are slightly bent or misaligned, you can adjust the riser so that the limbs line up. The Excel Pro cannot do this since there are no movable parts in the limb pocket. Ask your pro-shop how this works.

Start with lighter pound limbs, definitely below 26 pounds. You'll probably want a 66" or a 68" bow (i'm 5'3" and i use a 66" bow). (The above post recommends 64". I would try it too. It depends on the shape of your face and if your nose can touch the string, which it should). Generally it's good to get an ILF (International Limb Fitting) bow so that you have an easier time buying limbs later on. And also buy a metal riser since they tend to last longer and are sturdier than wooden risers. You should get wooden limbs and should stay under $100 for them. 

Accessory wise, you should get a moderately priced finger tab. Finger tabs are very personal and should be bought soon. I recommend the Win&Win 360 tab since it's cheap and high quality. Any metal sight will do until you get more accurate, and you don't need high quality stabilizers. A metal rod or cheap stabilizer will do (if you want to buy a good quality one soon, look into the Win&Win HMC+).


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## mtlenway (Nov 5, 2012)

recommendations: you are likely about a 26inch draw, I would start with a 60lb limb (but go down to a archery shop and have them check your draw and the feel of 60lb vs 70lb limbs) I good used Mathews for your would be an SQ2, Outback or switchback all three are older bows and buying used you wont break the bank. I recent just sold a SQ1 in 26inch draw that my son used for several years. You should be able to find an SQ2 or Outback for around $200 to $300 and you should ealily get 3 to 4 years out of it before you start thinking about having to upgrade. You can go on the Mathews website and check out their discontinued bows.


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

Thank you all SO MUCH for being so kind to my first post, and being so informative and helpful!

*icehaven* - yep, actually my coach recommends 66" as well. But I will definitely go to the shop to try a 64" set up and discuss before buying. I have been in touch with the sole shop/ distributor that sells Hoyt where I am, and will meet him in a couple of weeks since they are currently closed. 

Currently I only have the finger tab and arm guard, both very cheap ones bought from the coach (not sure what brand) that even my coach said I should get new ones if I want to continue. Everything else is the coach's at the moment - her risers for students are all wooden ones. 

You mentioned your bow is 66". What is the size of your riser? 25"? 23"? 

Are both the Horizon Pro and Excel Pro ILF bows? What does the Pro offer that the "non-Pro" Horizons and Excel offer? Was I thinking too advanced when I seriously considered the Nexus? I asked the local distributor what is the alternative to Nexus if it's no longer produced and he told me Excel (he did not indicate the Pro version).


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## icehaven (Nov 30, 2010)

My bow is 66" with a 23" riser with medium limbs. Most people recommend a 25" with short limbs, but personal preference. Also, my draw length is 26" as mtlenway guessed for you. (however, I use 27.5" arrows with my clicker very close to the end of the clicker plate).

Both Excel Pro and Horizon Pro are ILF. The difference between Pro and regular is simply the type of limb bolt. I use regular limb bolts on my GMX, but some people say the pro limb bolts are nice. It's hard to explain the physical difference without seeing it in person, but basically the limb bolt head can pivot and move around. Ask your coach about that. It really doesn't matter for anyone less than expert, and they only came out this year so you can definitely shoot well without them.


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

icehaven said:


> My bow is 66" with a 23" riser with medium limbs. Most people recommend a 25" with short limbs, but personal preference. Also, my draw length is 26" as mtlenway guessed for you. (however, I use 27.5" arrows with my clicker very close to the end of the clicker plate).
> 
> Both Excel Pro and Horizon Pro are ILF. The difference between Pro and regular is simply the type of limb bolt. I use regular limb bolts on my GMX, but some people say the pro limb bolts are nice. It's hard to explain the physical difference without seeing it in person, but basically the limb bolt head can pivot and move around. Ask your coach about that. It really doesn't matter for anyone less than expert, and they only came out this year so you can definitely shoot well without them.


Thanks again! 

You recommended lighter pound limbs. Any few particular ones to recommend that I should check out when I go down to the shop? I keep hearing Hoyt limbs match better with Hoyt risers but I'm sure there are people who would disagree.


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## icehaven (Nov 30, 2010)

not sure about hoyt limbs to hoyt risers. i personally adore Samick limbs, but there are a lot of people who absolutely hate them.

The cheapest ones that I'd look at are the Samick Privilege and the Win&Win Axiom Plus. On a side note, you should get a Lancaster Catalog. they're free and they list the majority of options.


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## Coiner10 (Aug 14, 2012)

If you go with the excel make sure you know which one you want, because they have a two different versions. They have the normal ILF and then they have the formula limb version.

@icehaven The excel pro is not an ILF riser, it uses Hoyt's formula limb fitting.


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## TwilightSea (Apr 16, 2012)

If you want to get into archery, I suggest getting an ILF riser. DO NOT get a non-ILF take down bow. I made that mistake when I got into archery and when I upgraded, I had to get a new riser with limbs. The Hoyt riser with the ILF is the Hoyt Grand Prix Pro, but that costs $400! You can get something much more affordable with your budget. I suggest a Cartel Fantom 25" riser (with short limbs, sorry ice!) but they're backordered until January... There's the Samick Avante 25" riser as an alternative.. but I'm not sure on the quality since it's die-cast. 

My current setup is a Samick Athlete 25" riser with SF Wood/Carbon short #22 limbs; 66", but I'll probably get medium limbs later on but I'm not sure when though.


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

mtlenway said:


> recommendations: you are likely about a 26inch draw, I would start with a 60lb limb (but go down to a archery shop and have them check your draw and the feel of 60lb vs 70lb limbs) I good used Mathews for your would be an SQ2, Outback or switchback all three are older bows and buying used you wont break the bank. I recent just sold a SQ1 in 26inch draw that my son used for several years. You should be able to find an SQ2 or Outback for around $200 to $300 and you should ealily get 3 to 4 years out of it before you start thinking about having to upgrade. You can go on the Mathews website and check out their discontinued bows.


This post is missing a crucial item: they're all recommendations for compound bows. For a compound, I'd probably recommend a 50 pound peak draw instead of 60 for beginners. If an inexperienced person went to an archery shop looking for a 60 pound recurve, they'd be so drastically overbowed that it might cause injury just drawing the bow back, provided they could even find one. Also, the O.P. didn't state it, but the examples of bows that are being considered are both recurve, and target recurve at that. 

Those Mathews compounds you cited are good hunting compound bows, but not even close to the advice the O.P. was asking for.


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## HikerDave (Jan 1, 2011)

Coiner10 said:


> If you go with the excel make sure you know which one you want, because they have a two different versions. They have the normal ILF and then they have the formula limb version.
> 
> @icehaven The excel pro is not an ILF riser, it uses Hoyt's formula limb fitting.


Here's my opinion. Avoid the plain Excel because there's no limb alignment adjustment. My Excel with Hoyt Excel limbs is perfectly straight, but yours may not be. Limb alignment is crucial to accurate shooting, once you get reasonably accurate. Hoyt Formula Excel and Hoyt Horizon are both good risers and not too costly. Hoyt Formula Excel has the more precise Formula limb fitting, but this is incompatible with most other limb manufacturers. Although the Formula limbs are very good, they are priced a little high and you'll want cheap limbs at first, because you'll grow through quite a few sets. You can't buy cheap limbs for the Formula system, so you should cross that off of your list. That leaves the Hoyt Horizon as your best choice as a beginner.

Forget about the Horizon Pro or Formula Pro for now unless you've got money to burn. You get better limb bolts, a wood grip, and Hoyt's really beautiful anodized finish for your money, and this would be a great deal if this was the last bow that you'll ever buy, but it isn't. Sooner or later most archers end up a very expensive bow and you'll likely be upgrading in a few years no matter what you think now. The only disadvantage of the Horizon is that you don't have tapped holes to add extra doo-dads onto your bow at the limb pockets. Lately the fashion is for bows to sprout modular nodes everywhere like bow goiters.


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## Chris RL (Oct 30, 2011)

You know, you could do much worse than just holding out and waiting for a used Nexus to show up!
Happy New Year!


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## Chris RL (Oct 30, 2011)

I'm going to quote an 11-time national champion here. He's a rifle shooter but I've taken this part of his philosophy to heart:

"Learn it the hard way, or, better yet, don't learn it the hard way: get all the equipment you need and get the best equipment you can afford. Understand that any compromise you make initially may not only cost more to upgrade later but may also be a potential obstacle to your progress now." 

i.e. if you get *good* equipment, you will perform better and progress faster than if you get *bad* equipment.

Note that "good/bad" doesn't necessarily equate to "expensive/cheap". There's a plethora of good cheap equipment out there. Which is why you're posting this thread, I know.

Also note that "good" by no means equates to "newest/latest", no matter what any advertising or publication may tell you.

In this respect, and at your level, "good/classic" equipment beats "good/newest" by a very long shot, because you have to spread your initial budget out over all your gear, to cover all your bases.

Initially you'll need a quiver, arm guard, tab, chest guard that fits, softball bat bag for everything, riser, arrow rest, plunger, limbs, string, arrows, string wax, maybe arrow lube.
Next add clicker, wrist or finger sling (a shoelace works well), front stabilizer.
Finally add sight, side stabs, V bar.

But before that, listen to your coach!

I saved up money and used club equipment for around 5 months, then spent over a thousand bucks on a really great kit that I still have.
Not that I've left it at that -- I've upgraded considerably since then, but my investment has more or less been consistent because I bought great used equipment and so have been able to pass it along at pretty much the same price I bought it at. Sometimes a little less, sometimes a little more.


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## Coiner10 (Aug 14, 2012)

Actually, Lancaster says in the product description that the normal excel has a pivot block alignment system. Although I haven't seen one of the new excels I think itsa misprint. Either way I agree with you.


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

williamskg6 said:


> This post is missing a crucial item: they're all recommendations for compound bows. For a compound, I'd probably recommend a 50 pound peak draw instead of 60 for beginners. If an inexperienced person went to an archery shop looking for a 60 pound recurve, they'd be so drastically overbowed that it might cause injury just drawing the bow back, provided they could even find one. Also, the O.P. didn't state it, but the examples of bows that are being considered are both recurve, and target recurve at that.
> 
> Those Mathews compounds you cited are good hunting compound bows, but not even close to the advice the O.P. was asking for.


Hi *williamskg6* - yes that is correct. I am not looking at compound bows at all at this point. Only recurves. I also won't be venturing into hunting at all.


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

Thank you so much to everyone who have given me valuable feedback. I will keep it in mind. Do keep the suggestions and thoughts coming! I am only planning to get my equipment around end-Jan. 

Happy 2013!


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

Hi all, I had another archery lesson today and these two were recommended to me: Hoyt GMX and Win&Win Inno CXT. Coach was leaning more towards Win&Win for me because she said the grip tends to suit smaller hands like mine. What's the difference in the grips?

They seem rather high end for a beginner I think, but that's the two the coach recommended. I will only make my decision once I had a chance to test both personally (in two weeks) and will go with the one that feels better in my hand. But just wanted to know if anyone has shot with these two risers and what your thoughts are on them.


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## Jared DeCrosta (Aug 26, 2012)

I would have to agree with PhotoDuck on this one. If you see yourself committing to archery, I would go with a model a little bit out of your price range. ( what is your price range if you don't mind my asking?) I shoot a PSE Bow Madness 3G. It shoots great and I have a 26" draw length and I have plenty of range with that bow. You need to make sure you have the right parts for your bow. 

I don't have much experience with the bows you mentioned but I can safely say that I would be comfortable with PSE, Hoyt or Bear. Have you ever thought about a Strother?

- Jared


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## jmvargas (Oct 21, 2004)

my advice:

....as a general rule get the best that you can afford from the beginning..

this is specially important for the riser and the sights as they will stay with you for a long time..

your limbs and arrows will change as you get better and stronger so you can economize on these in the beginning and go to the higher end ones as you progress..

i've always believed that a pre-owned top of the line older model in good condition will always be better buy than a brand new lower model riser or sight...

i started with a pre-owned hoyt elan and vector limbs,sureloc supreme sight,beiter stabs and X7 arrows..

i still have the sight but have since upgraded to the equipment you see in my signature..


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

Wow, thanks for the fast replies!

*Jared DeCrosta* - budget for riser (if in USD) - $600-$700ish.

*jmvargas *- you said exactly what my coach said about getting a good riser and starting off with more economical limbs. She also said archers tend to upgrade anyway.

Wanted to also ask about the paint work on Matt colors - do they chip off easily?

If anyone has more feedback about those two mentioned, especially the grips, or any other thoughts, please lemme know, thanks!


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## Jared DeCrosta (Aug 26, 2012)

I'd say PSE is a good bet. Have you ever tried Strother? They're really nice and shoot great. They aren't too pricey and are a good option. They are a new company but I feel they have nearly perfected their product. I've shot both a Wrath and SX Rush and I prefer the Rush. Wrath however is one sweet bow! Really quiet and accurate if you sight it in properly. Stick with original grips for the most part, however, if it doesn't feel comfortable to you, don't use it. You can always trade up limbs so keep the originals for now unless you choose to become either a hardcore competition shooter or a hardcore hunter, or both! Then you might want something a little more accurate and less economical. Any other questions feel free to ask. 


-Jared


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

Jared DeCrosta said:


> I'd say PSE is a good bet. Have you ever tried Strother? They're really nice and shoot great. They aren't too pricey and are a good option. They are a new company but I feel they have nearly perfected their product. I've shot both a Wrath and SX Rush and I prefer the Rush. Wrath however is one sweet bow! Really quiet and accurate if you sight it in properly. Stick with original grips for the most part, however, if it doesn't feel comfortable to you, don't use it. You can always trade up limbs so keep the originals for now unless you choose to become either a hardcore competition shooter or a hardcore hunter, or both! Then you might want something a little more accurate and less economical. Any other questions feel free to ask.
> 
> 
> -Jared



Hi aren't those compound bows? I only do recurve at the moment.


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## jmvargas (Oct 21, 2004)

jaykayes said:


> Wow, thanks for the fast replies!
> 
> *Jared DeCrosta* - budget for riser (if in USD) - $600-$700ish.
> 
> ...


jay..

...i have never considered getting any painted riser as no matter how well you take care of them the paint will always find a way to get chipped..

ALL my risers have been with anodized finishes and have included the hoyt elan, matrix,pse x-factors, martin aurora and the spigarelli explorer II...

..aside from the riser also get the best sights you can afford--you won't go wrong with the higher end surelocs or shibuyas..

..your riser budget is pretty high so you can get most of the top of the line risers for that.. 

good luck on your search!!..


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

jmvargas said:


> jay..
> 
> ...i have never considered getting any painted riser as no matter how well you take care of them the paint will always find a way to get chipped..
> 
> ...



Thanks for your reply! Have you ever shot with a riser with a matte finish? I've heard the matte ones tend to 'scratch' rather easily, especially for field archery.


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## PhotoDuck (Jul 17, 2004)

Every finish can chip or ding. My painted bows only have a few specks out after 18 Years of use.

Get car touchup paint from autozone or Napa auto parts in the same color as your bow.

You can't touchup anodized like you can paint... 

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2


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## HikerDave (Jan 1, 2011)

jaykayes said:


> Hi aren't those compound bows? I only do recurve at the moment.


PSE X-Appeal is a good recurve riser. My daughter just upgraded to that from a Hoyt Formula Excel, so that we could buy lower-cost ILF limbs as she increases her draw weight. The X-Appeal is very easy to set up and tune. Finish is hard-anodized red, black, or blue.

The riser is hardly going to make any difference, though. I don't shoot any better with my Hoyt HPX than I did with my plain old Excel, other than having better range because I now have better limbs.

If you must have a high-dollar carbon riser, the SF Carbon Ultimate Elite Premium whatever they call it now looks pretty nice.


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## Jared DeCrosta (Aug 26, 2012)

jaykayes said:


> Hi aren't those compound bows? I only do recurve at the moment.


Sorry, didn't realized you weren't into compounds right now


-Jared


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## jmvargas (Oct 21, 2004)

jaykayes said:


> Thanks for your reply! Have you ever shot with a riser with a matte finish? I've heard the matte ones tend to 'scratch' rather easily, especially for field archery.




i've never shot nor owned a matte finished riser so am not sure how these will hold up...

my oldest anodized riser(black X-factor) is about 8 years old and i'm looking at it now and it still looks brand new!!

...but then i take really good care of my equipment!!


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

Another consideration: less prestigious brands like Cartel (for the riser only). I've been pretty happy with my Cartel Midas riser. It's a good shooting riser that was supposedly somewhat of a clone of some famous Hoyt bow. I am leery of almost anything else that Cartel makes, but the Midas is a good riser. The Fantom is a surprisingly good riser as well, but if your budget allows, you'll be better off with a forged riser. Those recommendations for a Hoyt GMX or a Win & Win Inno CXT are perhaps a little misguided. Those are high end bows with high end price tags. If you can afford it, you couldn't go wrong with either because they're both fantastic, but there are more affordable ways to go without compromising too much. For example, the Win & Win Winex is very highly regarded and several hundred dollars less than either the GMX or the Inno CXT.


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## hayk (Aug 21, 2012)

Agreed. The Win & Win Winex riser is excellent, as is the Hoyt GMX. I started with the Win & Win AL1 riser, haven't regretted it and have no plans to upgrade it - I just love shooting it. Recently upgraded to a Sure Loc Quest X sight and love it - my only regret is I didn't get this sight initially - I have it set up with my Titan recurve aperture and this is a good set up. I have upgraded limbs from Cartel to Kaya K3; stabs from Cartel to 37" Beiter long rod with vee bar & side rods, plunger from Shibuya to Beiter and string to a custom made string. I'll keep using 2nd hand limbs til I settle on my weight, then I'll upgrade to Win & Wins. Don't forget you'll need to upgrade your arrows as you upgrade your limbs, so make sure you factor this expense in for future upgrades. I started out with a KSL Gold brass tab which I've customised and love shooting - my advice, don't scrimp on your tab - it'll be in your hands a lot as you'll shoot a lot of arrows - a tab with good soft cordovan face leather will mold beautifully to your hand.


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

An update - I wasn't allowed to test the bows at all. I only managed to hold the risers. 23" GMX and CXT. The weight difference is about 100 grams but in the hand, made quite a difference. The grip of the Hoyt felt better but the weight of the CXT felt more bearable. Not sure if that's just a first impression thing and weight is something I'd grow accustomed to?

No Winex in the shop, unfortunately.

One dealer told me he had to correct a 'twist' problem on the CXT that caused inaccurate shooting for his customer and eventually caused the arrows to break! He seems to think there is no way the CXT could be better than the GMX. :-/

So now, since I don't have any way to really test the two risers apart from simply holding them, I really need feedback from anyone who has used these two risers before to share your thoughts. Thanks once again!


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## TER (Jul 5, 2003)

jaykayes said:


> One dealer told me he had to correct a 'twist' problem on the CXT that caused inaccurate shooting for his customer and eventually caused the arrows to break! He seems to think there is no way the CXT could be better than the GMX. :-/


I'd be suspicious of anything this dealer says because that is a wild and hard to believe claim. That's an example of why I always chuckle when forum posters always tell people asking for advice here to go to a local pro-shop for advice...when the truth is 99% of pro-shop staff don't have clue about recurve target archery.

Bow length is determined by your drawlength. It's 100% about the length of your arms and width of your trunk. Wingspan. Everybody mentions their height. Height is irrelevant. 

The CXT and GMX are both high quality risers that only advanced archers would notice a difference in shooting, if there is any difference. Pick the one you like the looks of better.


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

Hahaha... actually yes I was pretty "ehhh??" when I was told about the "broken arrows". 

The thing is, where I am, there isn't really a shop front for archery equipment. The only one is a mini one that is set up by a former national archer. He recommended the W&W because he feels the Hoyt would be too heavy for me at this stage. I did feel a difference in the weight.

The other two I have been speaking to are not shop fronts. One (the "broken arrow" one) is a dealer and former competitive archer/ coach who brings in the equipment only when you make an order (can bring in both brands but is mainly a Hoyt fan). The other one is my own coach (doesn't sell Hoyt, and recommends the W&W because he thinks the grip would suit archers with smaller hands - but as tested today... not true. Both are about the same. Just that the Hoyt wooden grip feels better).

Oh, also, helping a friend ask - are there finger tabs that are not made of leather? She's vegetarian.


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

Also looking for feedback about SF limbs.


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## RKu (Nov 16, 2012)

Relative newbie like you so hope this helps. I started with my club's recommended JOAD program bow and limbs, the SF Premium Riser and SF Premium Carbon/Wood limbs. The club also stocks Samick Universal Limbs. I found this equipment to be excellent and affordable. Especially as I quickly increased poundage over the six months I've been shooting and being able to do it incrementally was great.

The club now recommends the Hoyt Horizon as well even though it is a little more expensive and you have to separately purchase a rest and plunger when the SF comes with both.

My kids still shoot the SF set ups. I recently upgraded by purchasing a used Winex riser and Hoyt G3 limbs from the FITA Classified section. The difference in performance is noticeable. The riser is more stable and the limbs are smoother and actually feel easier to draw and load then lighter weight limbs. The limbs felt better as well when I mounted them to the SF riser as well but truly felt different on the Winex. I am not quite sure how important these differences are in the end. People in the club shoot winning scores with the SF Premium and Hoyts, and I really enjoyed shooting the SF. As the members of this forum so regularly say its the operator and not the equipment. That being said, I like the Winex more and do not regret the investment at all, and right or wrong I now feel that any mistake is truly operate error.


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

RKu said:


> Relative newbie like you so hope this helps. I started with my club's recommended JOAD program bow and limbs, the SF Premium Riser and SF Premium Carbon/Wood limbs. The club also stocks Samick Universal Limbs. I found this equipment to be excellent and affordable. Especially as I quickly increased poundage over the six months I've been shooting and being able to do it incrementally was great.
> 
> The club now recommends the Hoyt Horizon as well even though it is a little more expensive and you have to separately purchase a rest and plunger when the SF comes with both.
> 
> My kids still shoot the SF set ups. I recently upgraded by purchasing a used Winex riser and Hoyt G3 limbs from the FITA Classified section. The difference in performance is noticeable. The riser is more stable and the limbs are smoother and actually feel easier to draw and load then lighter weight limbs. The limbs felt better as well when I mounted them to the SF riser as well but truly felt different on the Winex. I am not quite sure how important these differences are in the end. People in the club shoot winning scores with the SF Premium and Hoyts, and I really enjoyed shooting the SF. As the members of this forum so regularly say its the operator and not the equipment. That being said, I like the Winex more and do not regret the investment at all, and right or wrong I now feel that any mistake is truly operate error.


Thanks for the feedback! I wanted to at least try holding the Winex riser but they just didn't stock them. Does the Winex come in a 23" though? I tried a 25" today and I was struggling a bit with the weight.


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## RKu (Nov 16, 2012)

jaykayes said:


> Thanks for the feedback! I wanted to at least try holding the Winex riser but they just didn't stock them. Does the Winex come in a 23" though? I tried a 25" today and I was struggling a bit with the weight.


I don't think it does.


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## TER (Jul 5, 2003)

jaykayes said:


> Oh, also, helping a friend ask - are there finger tabs that are not made of leather? She's vegetarian.


Here's a thread discussing that issue:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1817971&highlight=tab+vegetarian

According to that thread the Super Leather face for the AAE Elite tab is a synthetic leather:
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/aae-elite-finger-tab-replacement-super-leather-face.html

Oberon is also discussed in that thread. I love it as a tab backing, but hate it as a tab face. It's like a thin sheet of foam which for me, was too sticky on the bowstring.

Several of the Black Widow tabs are Super Leather. Very reasonably priced very good tabs.
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/shooting-gear/gloves-guards-tabs/finger-tabs.html?manufacturer=3821


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

TER said:


> Here's a thread discussing that issue:
> 
> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1817971&highlight=tab+vegetarian
> 
> ...


Thanks! This has been very helpful!


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## jmvargas (Oct 21, 2004)

jaykayes said:


> Thanks for the feedback! I wanted to at least try holding the Winex riser but they just didn't stock them. Does the Winex come in a 23" though? I tried a 25" today and I was struggling a bit with the weight.


...if you're looking for a lightweight riser you may want to look for a pre-owned PSE X-factor , Hoyt Elan, or Hoyt Matrix....

i have personally owned and used these risers and although they are older models they are still being used by world class archers as recently as the London Olympics..

they are relatively lightweight and can easily be made heavier by adding stabilizers and backweights should you need to do so--they are also anodized..

i am sure there are newer similar lightweight models currently available but these are the ones i have personally used...

hope this helps!!


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

Hi all, 

Need some feedback with accessories. Please help? 

- Backpack: Might get the Aurora Dynamic City, but kinda not too crazy about the colors. I'd prefer a mostly-black one. Anyone used the Legend one? Any feedback on comparison between the two?

- Limbs: SF Premium Carbon, or Samick Athlete?

- Stabilizer: Some names which have been thrown up: Doinker magnetic, SF Elite Carbon, W&W HMC, Doinker Platinum Hi-Mod Carbon, FUSE Carbon Blade. Which is suitable for an archer of smaller stature?

- Chest guard: to go with what size one usually wears for a tee-shirt, right?

- Arm guard: WW Carbon? Or AAE?

- Clicker: Beiter?

- Plunger: Shibuya DX or Beiter?

- Finger tab: super leather is still leather. Any other veg-friendly options?

Those not listed here are ones which I have already decided on. 

On a slightly separate note: OMG the new WW Inno Max looks gorgeous especially with the wooden grip! But not likely to get that though.


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## HikerDave (Jan 1, 2011)

jaykayes said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Need some feedback with accessories. Please help?
> 
> ...


Stabilizer: Easton X10 stabilizer is nice and light. My wife and daughter use these.


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## Poldi (Mar 3, 2012)

riser: seb flute
backpack: legend pro tour is fine (my choice)
stabilizer: doinker avancee. good weight adjustment from beginner to expert with either aluminium or steel weight caps. 
plunger: shibuya is top for the price. 
clicker: beiter
arm guard: depends on you and your anatomy, technique etc.


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

Do excuse the newbie question - Just wondering if anyone has experienced with colored sights? I was thinking of getting a red one, but does having a black one vs a red one make any difference, since the ring and the pin will also be red if you get a red sight.


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## jtang (Nov 22, 2012)

I am a complete newbie, so I can only give you my perspective so far. I got a Sure-loc contender X, which comes with a black aperture with a dot in the middle, then I ordered a flo red and flo green sight from the classifieds here that is just a ring. So far I prefer just the ring, and many archers that I shoot with also prefer the same. Just more food for thought 

On another note, I kind of went a very similar route as you, although I am 6'. Wanted to buy once, cry once on some items, but knowing other items I would probably upgrade sooner rather than later.

Riser: GMX 25"
Limbs: Great tree apple X limbs #28 (most basic limb the shop I got most of my stuff had) knowing I will probably out grow them soon.
Saunders arm guard (if you can try some, see what is comfortable for you, and gives reasonable protection)
Stabilizer: I happen to get a really good deal on a second hand doinker avancee, but had tried the cartel and easton. At this point, I really can't tell much of a difference between any of them.
Rest: Shibuya DX or AAE Champion II (I ended up with the AAE as that is what the shop had)
Plunger: AAE Master. I figure if I want, I can upgrade to a beiter later, maybe pick it up secondhand as well and not lose
Arrows: Easton Blues. Again, I figure when I move up in weight, I will have to get a new set anyways, so started out cheap on these.
Case: Still looking for something more permanent, but currently am using a baseball bat bag I found at a Sports authority for $10. On my list: Easton, Hoyt, and Fivics backpack. Or a Shibuya hard case, but they are pretty pricey. Would be handy if I ever travelled with my gear though.
Quiver: splurged on a Neet-2300 as I liked the looks. Picked up a cheap leather belt from a discount store for $10 instead of the $50 that neet sells.

And perhaps most important of all, found a coach I like, and a range where I enjoy shooting with the people there.

I still don't have a clicker or chest guard yet.


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

Do we really need archery bags or would any other bags like those from North Face, Jansport, etc, do, as long as they are big enough? 

P.S.: Totally agree about getting a coach and range you like with nice people!


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

BTW anyone knows the main difference between the W&W HMC plus and the new HMC 22?


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## jtang (Nov 22, 2012)

Need is a bit of a strong word, but the problem with a lot of traditional bags made by the North Face, Jansport etc is they won't be long enough for arrows or a long stabilizer. Even with archery specific bags, often times the long stabilizer will be poking out somewhere.


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

Okay I've decided on the CXT. But since there are no shops here I can check out, just wondering if anyone has seen the red or white colored CXT in person? I'm undecided which color to go for.


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## Johndburk (Apr 29, 2011)

Can't speak for the CXT, but I have it's predecessor, the Inno Carbon in the red, and the colour is very nice. Not too bright, not too dark, nice rich red colour that several people have commented favourably on it.

Have you also looked at the CXT in matte titanium gray? It's pretty sweet looking as well if you're looking for something understated but different, found a shot of it online:

http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad347/SE-CIH/Archery/DSCN1091.jpg


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

Johndburk said:


> Can't speak for the CXT, but I have it's predecessor, the Inno Carbon in the red, and the colour is very nice. Not too bright, not too dark, nice rich red colour that several people have commented favourably on it.
> 
> Have you also looked at the CXT in matte titanium gray? It's pretty sweet looking as well if you're looking for something understated but different, found a shot of it online:
> 
> http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad347/SE-CIH/Archery/DSCN1091.jpg


Thanks! Actually the titanium gray and the gold dual color are the only ones I've seen. Not really for me. The red is gorgeous but the white feels ...'calmer' and is the colour of the riser used by my favorite archer (though of a different model). 

Decisions...!


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

Decided on red, finally!! Anyone has feedback on the Fivics Pegasus vs SF Elite Carbon limbs? 

As well as Cartel carbon arrows VS Easton carbon ones?


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

jaykayes said:


> Decided on red, finally!! Anyone has feedback on the Fivics Pegasus vs SF Elite Carbon limbs?
> 
> As well as Cartel carbon arrows VS Easton carbon ones?


There are certain items that could be worth investing in early (sight, riser), but are arrows at an early to intermediate stage one of these??


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## HikerDave (Jan 1, 2011)

jaykayes said:


> Decided on red, finally!! Anyone has feedback on the Fivics Pegasus vs SF Elite Carbon limbs?
> 
> As well as Cartel carbon arrows VS Easton carbon ones?


Don't buy expensive limbs just yet. You will likely need to go up or down in weight and might need to adjust the length to your preference as well.

I just bought a pair of Kaya K1 limbs for my daughter and these are just as accurate in her hands as Hoyt Formula Excel -- 90 dollars vs 250.


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

HikerDave said:


> I just bought a pair of Kaya K1 limbs for my daughter and these are just as accurate in her hands as Hoyt Formula Excel -- 90 dollars vs 250.


Just a quick note, the Kaya K1 limbs are branded differently for sale in the US. They're called Kaya Stallion limbs. You can get them from Andover Archery for around $135. I almost bought a set when I was searching for gear, but ended up buying a good pair of used Win&Win limbs. Here's a photo of what the Stallion limbs look like: http://www.greatreearchery.com/Uploads/Items//sta.jpg


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

williamskg6 said:


> Just a quick note, the Kaya K1 limbs are branded differently for sale in the US. They're called Kaya Stallion limbs. You can get them from Andover Archery for around $135. I almost bought a set when I was searching for gear, but ended up buying a good pair of used Win&Win limbs. Here's a photo of what the Stallion limbs look like: http://www.greatreearchery.com/Uploads/Items//sta.jpg


Thanks! But those are the only two my coach has though, and I can get them at a bit of a discount. Unless I special order the Kaya. Are the SF Elite and Fivics Pegasus considered too advanced? 

Any thoughts on the arrows? Whether I should invest now or later?


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

jaykayes said:


> Any thoughts on the arrows? Whether I should invest now or later?


I suspect most people will tell you to go with relatively inexpensive arrows at first. Easton Platinum Plus aluminum arrows seem to be popular, and that's what my daughters and myself are shooting. I'm personally having a difficult time getting them to fly well for me but most people don't seem to have issues with them. They're good arrows, pretty easy to find, come in tons of spines, and are not very expensive.

If you are thinking of carbon arrows, I've heard good things about the Carbon Impact Super Club arrows too, but they're too short for me in the spine I need so I haven't tried them.


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## Poldi (Mar 3, 2012)

Arrows:
i would go for carbon one, beginning with medium size plastic vanes, later smaller or spin wings. 
a reasonable price with very good performance up to higher levels and longer distances.


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

Poldi said:


> Arrows:
> i would go for carbon one, beginning with medium size plastic vanes, later smaller or spin wings.
> a reasonable price with very good performance up to higher levels and longer distances.


Thanks Poldi. Which arrows would be considered "reasonable price with good performance"?

I get a discount at my club, where the X10s are only slightly more expensive than the Nano XRs and Nano Pros. Do I invest at this stage? Or just get a more economical carbon type first?


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## HikerDave (Jan 1, 2011)

jaykayes said:


> Thanks! But those are the only two my coach has though, and I can get them at a bit of a discount. Unless I special order the Kaya. Are the SF Elite and Fivics Pegasus considered too advanced?
> 
> Any thoughts on the arrows? Whether I should invest now or later?


SF Elite looks like a pretty good value so probably not too advanced. I thought that you were previously talking about the SF Premiums which are kind of expensive. If you get the SF Elites let us know how you like them.


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

HikerDave said:


> SF Elite looks like a pretty good value so probably not too advanced. I thought that you were previously talking about the SF Premiums which are kind of expensive. If you get the SF Elites let us know how you like them.


Oh actually he has the SF Carbon Premium (silver) as well, which is less expensive than the Elite (black). :-/


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## Poldi (Mar 3, 2012)

jaykayes,
i don't know your actual status, but it's usual to increase the bow weight as an beginning archer in steps until you reach the weight for e.g. competition on full fita.
if so, you have to change every time the arrows for stiffer ones. and thats getting pricey...

until you have not reached your final draw weight, i wouldn't buy ace, nano pro, x10 etc.
unless money is nothing


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## Johndburk (Apr 29, 2011)

I'd suggest the aluminum Platinum Plus's with 3" feathers for your first set of arrows. 1/2 the price of CarbonOne's, lots of spine choices, and the feathers will be more forgiving of a bad release than vanes. 

The CarbonOne's are great arrows for the longer distances you'll shoot outdoors (30 to 50m), but you'll probably be shooting shorter distances for a while, and by the time you want to shoot the longer distances your limb poundage will likely be heavier than what you're shooting now, which would mean another set of arrows anyway.


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

Johndburk said:


> I'd suggest the aluminum Platinum Plus's with 3" feathers for your first set of arrows. 1/2 the price of CarbonOne's, lots of spine choices, and the feathers will be more forgiving of a bad release than vanes.
> 
> The CarbonOne's are great arrows for the longer distances you'll shoot outdoors (30 to 50m), but you'll probably be shooting shorter distances for a while, and by the time you want to shoot the longer distances your limb poundage will likely be heavier than what you're shooting now, which would mean another set of arrows anyway.


Hi

Why the aluminium as opposed to the carbon types?

The ones my coach has are Cartel alloy and an Easton aluminium type (don't remember which one).

Thanks!


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

jaykayes said:


> Hi
> 
> Why the aluminium as opposed to the carbon types?
> 
> Thanks!


Aluminum arrows are cheaper, so when you mangle one or lose it you won't feel so bad. You're more likely to ruin one when you're starting out, so why not ruin a cheaper arrow? Carbon arrows are generally more expensive, usually lighter weight, and won't stay bent (but they can break if you're mean enough to them). Aluminum arrows fatigue over long periods of time and need replacement, can be bent (but rarely break), and are a little heavier so you don't get as much distance out of them.

Sometimes I wish I was shooting carbon, because I'm always having to worry about accidentally bending one of my aluminum arrows. That's actually how I ruined one of my first arrows - I accidentally shot it into a corner where the vibrating arrow bent around a piece of wood and stayed bent. If I'd been shooting carbon arrows, that arrow would either have been just fine or broke completely, and my guess is that it would have been just fine. So, my cheap aluminum arrow had to be replaced where a more expensive carbon arrow wouldn't have (in all likelihood). 

If you don't mind the price difference, most people would probably agree that carbon arrows are usually superior. As I said though, as a beginner you're more likely to lose or ruin an arrow, so why not lose/ruin cheap ones until you've got your skills down enough to merit paying for carbons?


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

williamskg6 said:


> Aluminum arrows are cheaper, so when you mangle one or lose it you won't feel so bad. You're more likely to ruin one when you're starting out, so why not ruin a cheaper arrow? Carbon arrows are generally more expensive, usually lighter weight, and won't stay bent (but they can break if you're mean enough to them). Aluminum arrows fatigue over long periods of time and need replacement, can be bent (but rarely break), and are a little heavier so you don't get as much distance out of them.
> 
> Sometimes I wish I was shooting carbon, because I'm always having to worry about accidentally bending one of my aluminum arrows. That's actually how I ruined one of my first arrows - I accidentally shot it into a corner where the vibrating arrow bent around a piece of wood and stayed bent. If I'd been shooting carbon arrows, that arrow would either have been just fine or broke completely, and my guess is that it would have been just fine. So, my cheap aluminum arrow had to be replaced where a more expensive carbon arrow wouldn't have (in all likelihood).
> 
> If you don't mind the price difference, most people would probably agree that carbon arrows are usually superior. As I said though, as a beginner you're more likely to lose or ruin an arrow, so why not lose/ruin cheap ones until you've got your skills down enough to merit paying for carbons?


Ah I see, thanks! Is this applicable for target recurve or other types of shooting? I only do target recurve.


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## hunting417 (Nov 13, 2010)

start with a 50 to 60 lb limb, a 60 lb limb will go from 60 to 70 , a first bow? 60 to 70 might be a bit much, go to a pro shop and shoot a few before you buy any. thats the right way to buy a bow, everyone is different, see which one you like, and shoot the best , the pro at the archeryshop will help you ,im sure .. good luck pal


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## Norman2 (Aug 4, 2012)

Hi. The OP is shooting and Olympic Recurve and no way can he use 50-60# limbs. Not even Olympic shooters use that kind
of poundage. Only for compound bows. Regards
Norman


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## hunting417 (Nov 13, 2010)

my mistake, thought he was shooting a compound, my point is don't shoot a bow that is too hard for you to draw back and hold, it will be too hard for you to steady it, and become consistant. just trying too help,


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## larry tom (Aug 16, 2012)

Jay. 

I agree that the Easton Platinum Plus is a pretty decent aluminum starter arrow. I shot with those when I was first taking lessons from my local club. But if you're interested in a carbon arrow let me steer you to the Carbon Impact Super Club arrows. Here's why. Comparatively, the Super Clubs don't cost that much more than the Platinums. Lancaster Archery sells the Platinums for about $4.60 per arrow shaft. But, you still need to buy fletchings, nocks, and a point. LAS sells the Super Clubs, complete, for about $5.70 (you do have to glue in the points). So for not too much more you get a decent starter carbon arrow. I shoot with the Super Clubs myself.

Just something to consider.

Regards,
Larry T


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

hunting417 said:


> my mistake, thought he was shooting a compound, my point is don't shoot a bow that is too hard for you to draw back and hold, it will be too hard for you to steady it, and become consistant. just trying too help,


Appreciate it, and totally agree! Thanks!


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

larry tom said:


> Jay.
> 
> I agree that the Easton Platinum Plus is a pretty decent aluminum starter arrow. I shot with those when I was first taking lessons from my local club. But if you're interested in a carbon arrow let me steer you to the Carbon Impact Super Club arrows. Here's why. Comparatively, the Super Clubs don't cost that much more than the Platinums. Lancaster Archery sells the Platinums for about $4.60 per arrow shaft. But, you still need to buy fletchings, nocks, and a point. LAS sells the Super Clubs, complete, for about $5.70 (you do have to glue in the points). So for not too much more you get a decent starter carbon arrow. I shoot with the Super Clubs myself.
> 
> ...


Thanks Larry! I will see if the club carries these and check them out.


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

I have checked. The club does not sell Carbon Ones or Super Clubs. They do have Easton ACC and ACG (I don't really want anything more premium than these) and I am looking for either carbon or alloy ones. What is the main difference between these two?


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

jaykayes said:


> I have checked. The club does not sell Carbon Ones or Super Clubs. They do have Easton ACC and ACG (I don't really want anything more premium than these) and I am looking for either carbon or alloy ones. What is the main difference between these two?


Easton's catalog shows the ACG with a slightly less stringent weight tolerance than the ACC and the nocks for the ACG are pin nocks instead of the ACC UNI Bushing with G nocks that are used on the ACC. They appear to be offered in similar spine ranges (but not identical) and weigh about the same amount per inch. Looks like some pretty subtle differences.

-Kent


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## EABB (Sep 23, 2012)

williamskg6 said:


> Easton's catalog shows the ACG with a slightly less stringent weight tolerance than the ACC and the nocks for the ACG are pin nocks instead of the ACC UNI Bushing with G nocks that are used on the ACC. They appear to be offered in similar spine ranges (but not identical) and weigh about the same amount per inch. Looks like some pretty subtle differences.
> 
> -Kent


Actually, ACG have a smaller diameter than the ACC, ACG are more similar to the ACE, they actually use ACE components. In general i would say that ACG are the superior arrow, and if i remember correctly theres not that much of a price difference. On the other hand, if you are limited to Easton arrows you could always try the Carbon One, those are a small diameter full carbon arrow and are quite cheaper than the ACG/ ACC / ACE, and are good enough to even compete. For beginners i wouldn't recommend ACE or better... you are bound to break and lose arrows in the beginning, and the more they cost the more it hurts! Hell maybe event he carbon ones are overkill! just get some arrows that wont break whit your poundage and shot them, maybe some second hand arrows could do!


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

EABB said:


> Actually, ACG have a smaller diameter than the ACC, ACG are more similar to the ACE, they actually use ACE components. In general i would say that ACG are the superior arrow, and if i remember correctly theres not that much of a price difference. On the other hand, if you are limited to Easton arrows you could always try the Carbon One, those are a small diameter full carbon arrow and are quite cheaper than the ACG/ ACC / ACE, and are good enough to even compete. For beginners i wouldn't recommend ACE or better... you are bound to break and lose arrows in the beginning, and the more they cost the more it hurts! Hell maybe event he carbon ones are overkill! just get some arrows that wont break whit your poundage and shot them, maybe some second hand arrows could do!


There are no carbon ones here though. I definitely wouldn't go ACE and above. So I guess I will choose the ACG over the ACC then, since the price difference isn't great. 

But with regards to nocks - what kind do I request for? Or is there only one kind that fits??


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## jtang (Nov 22, 2012)

Something to think about is that your starting limb weight will probably go up some as you improve your form and gain strength and endurance. Once you change limbs, you will probably have to buy a new set of arrows as well. I went with 6 Easton Blues to start out with, and plan to get my first "real" set of arrows when I move up in weight in the next month or so. Even then, it is foreseeable that I will move up in weight again in a year or so, hopefully settling at a more final weight if I plan on just shooting semi-seriously/recreationally and will need to buy more arrows.


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## jaykayes (Dec 27, 2012)

jtang said:


> Something to think about is that your starting limb weight will probably go up some as you improve your form and gain strength and endurance. Once you change limbs, you will probably have to buy a new set of arrows as well. I went with 6 Easton Blues to start out with, and plan to get my first "real" set of arrows when I move up in weight in the next month or so. Even then, it is foreseeable that I will move up in weight again in a year or so, hopefully settling at a more final weight if I plan on just shooting semi-seriously/recreationally and will need to buy more arrows.


Thanks! That's actually a very sound plan. But with limited ones being sold where I am, the best options I have here are ACC and ACG and I decided on the latter since the price difference isn't great. 

So just need to know about the ACG nocks for now.


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## EABB (Sep 23, 2012)

jaykayes said:


> Thanks! That's actually a very sound plan. But with limited ones being sold where I am, the best options I have here are ACC and ACG and I decided on the latter since the price difference isn't great.
> 
> So just need to know about the ACG nocks for now.


I would go for the g nocks, quite cheaper and at the start your not gonna be grouping so close that you would benefit from the pin nocks.

http://eastonarchery.com/arrows/target-alloy-a-c-g/0/2 Check the easton page for the components


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## Poldi (Mar 3, 2012)

go for g-nocks with ACG. 

maybe later on a really experienced level you can consider testing e.g. beiter in-out nocks if they will help grouping closer.
but that will take a while


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## rambo-yambo (Aug 12, 2008)

ACE is lighter than ACG, so if you are shooting long distance, pick ACE. However, I have no problem reaching 70 meters with my 30# bow with my ACG.

There are advantages of ACG vs. ACE. It is cheaper and metal detector picks up ACG a lot easier than ACE if you miss the target when shooting outdoor. My 2 cents.


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## wurmz (Oct 13, 2012)

I shot my club's rental equipment for 2 months, then got this:

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/usa-archery-66-recurve-bow.html

It came highly recommended by my club pro, and I love it. I'm 5'6" 145lbs and I got the 22# limbs, it is more than enough to hit 18 meters accurately and not so much that I fatigue while shooting.

I highly recommend it, and with the right extras you can get an entire setup for around 200$, can't beat that deal.


As far as arrows, I got these:

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/easton-xx75-platinum-plus-shaft.html

I bent one when I missed my target and hit my fence, but it bent back straight with a little manipulation.


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