# changing strings yourself?



## KingOfAllThings (Apr 14, 2005)

I tried to do my own once.


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## CPaynter (Mar 12, 2004)

and?


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## KingOfAllThings (Apr 14, 2005)

It didn't go so well.

I think I could do it now though. If you've seen it done at your shop a few times, and you have a press it shouldn't be too tough.

You have to measure everything when you're done to make sure that you put the right amount of twists in.


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## bucknasty (Jun 18, 2004)

well, you're going to need a bow press and know how to use it. if you've got that down i'd suggest taking pictures from a few angles before you begin. you would be amazed how confused you can get your first few times. do not do like my neighbors co-worker and cut the old ones off with a pocket knife, yes, i'm serious. do one thing at a time. i would also have someone i could call or email that can explain to you what twisting/untwisting each part will do. its very do-able. have you ever watched it being done. that may be a first step. anyone i sell a set to, i walk them thru it the whole way if they need it. 

yep, if you're going to do it take pics of the cam(s) from both sides and the cable guard from both sides before hand. if i can be of any further help shoot me a pm and i'll give you my phone # and we can set up a time for you to do it that i'll be home for you to call if you need to.


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## scottland (Oct 29, 2004)

It's not too difficult. First find out the brace height and Axle-to-axle length for your bow. Either look it up from the manufactuer, or measure your bow as it is now. Then replace your cable(s) first, Twist or untwist them until your bow is back into specs(BH & ATA), then replace the string and do the same. Take your time, and if run into any snags, give your local proshop a call, if they can't help you fix it, they will be able to fix it for you


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## talonwolf37 (Jan 17, 2004)

bucknasty hit the nail on the head..

i take alot of pics, then i replace one thing at a time.
measure your axle to axle and brace hight.

if it is a two cam bow,timing the cams takes the longest..

i am fixing to dive into my newest bow.it has the cam 1/2..
so i am being a bit causious..


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## PA.JAY (May 26, 2004)

FIRST time i did'nt take pictures I was screwed ! 
2nd time i took pictures was real easy !


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## Jorge Oliveira (Aug 13, 2004)

CPaynter said:


> i was just wondering how many of you change your own strings and cables and how complicated is it? are there any videos about this?


LeEarl here in AT did a DVD on bow tuning, I think this was covered.

Alas, it's sold out until the next release...


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## mttc08 (Feb 21, 2005)

*it's easy as this....*

here's what I did....I attempeted to simply change my worn our string.....
Longgggggggg story short....get all the info you have on your bow and send it to crackers......buy extra arrows while crackers is working on yours, you will need new arrows cause when you get your bow back from crackers you will be busting nocks and robin hooding arrows.........just got mine back yesterday :wink: Have one robin hood today and refletched 3 aroows today.
Bow has never shot better. And the price was right. New string s cables and a properly tuned bow.
That my friend is how to change a string. And improve your score.
John


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## CPaynter (Mar 12, 2004)

give me some ideas on a bow press. which one would you recommend?


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## Jose Boudreaux (Oct 18, 2003)

if you got the $$$ get the sure-loc x-press

I have the apple pro press with the straight bar for the Hoyts and the other bar for other bows

I got the stand with it, accessory tray and pro saw....my living room always looks like an archery shop just exploded  

It's good to have a few bows of the same model so you have a live template when changing strings.  

I just started taking bows apart a couple months ago....it is fun as all get out....JB


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

The above ideas are good ones but I find the pics to be a waste of time. Here is why.....All you need to do is press the bow. Take which ever string you want to put on first, lets start with the buss cable ( I have a Hoyt so bare with me). Take the ends that are on the axels off, then put the new ones on. Next remove the buss cable from the cam, then run the new one through your cable slide and put the other end on the cam. Then remove the control cable from the top cam, put the new cable on. Repeat with the bottom. Last but not least do the string the same way.........You are done. No pics needed. 

It is a good idea though to write all your info down. Although I have found that once I get my drawlength and timing set correctly that everything else is usually dead nut to spec or very close to it.


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## bucknasty (Jun 18, 2004)

walkswithagimp makes a great very affordable press for home use that will work on parallel or non-parallel limb bows. puts less pressure on the limbs than drawing your bow for around $75 i believe. look up his username and shoot him a pm. and i don't think pictures are a waste of time for a beginner. i can change a set, take measurements, and have everything in spec and timed with only 1 more time in a press, but that took a while. first few times the heart is beating and you'll find yourself getting real nervous and the pics will help when you're not thinking real well.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

The ratchet loc is the same as walks with a gi's press. 

Again no pics are needed if you change your strings the way I stated above. Unless you don't know the difference between a string and a cable you won't have a problem. It is impossible to mess it up. I started doing it this way to make sure I didn't screw it up. A pic isn't going to tell you which string is hooked to which lobe on the cam. But if you pull off one loop, and take the NEW matching loop, and put it on. If you mess it up then you really do need to let someone else do everything to your bow, a pic wouldn't help ya.


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## Marcus (Jun 19, 2002)

I won't shoot a bow unless I have made the strings on it. Only exception is a single cam cause I hate making that 104" string with 86" of serving. 

Really, it's a bow, it aint rocket science.


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## bucknasty (Jun 18, 2004)

Brown Hornet said:


> The ratchet loc is the same as walks with a gi's press.
> 
> Again no pics are needed if you change your strings the way I stated above. Unless you don't know the difference between a string and a cable you won't have a problem. It is impossible to mess it up. I started doing it this way to make sure I didn't screw it up. A pic isn't going to tell you which string is hooked to which lobe on the cam. But if you pull off one loop, and take the NEW matching loop, and put it on. If you mess it up then you really do need to let someone else do everything to your bow, a pic wouldn't help ya.


well, i guess what has worked for others won't work for you and if you mess it up doing it his way you shouldn't have started in the first place and won't have a reference and will have to take a bow in a press to a shop. seriously. and i don't think the ratchetloc press has legs. this is the kind of attitude i wouldn't listen to when getting help with your bow. there are lots of ways to skin a cat and you'd be amazed what you may forget while getting the string out of the slide.


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## Gritty (Dec 18, 2003)

When I started doing my own stuff. I took no pics. Though it may have been a great idea. I did find out how to get things right however thru trial and error, mostly error, LOL, But I think doing it that way let me learn more then if I had a diagram to go from. 

I have changed strings on many bows now and found the best way to start is to have the cams marked. I mark all cams on bows I set up witha sharpie so I have a reference as to where things should be to start. 

Take your time. think about what your doing and what will result. If your in doubt, try it. check your marks and see if it helped or hurt Then go from there. you don't have to shoot after every twist. Though I may go back and add or take out a twist once close for fine tuning. Don't be afraid. It is really not that hard if you have the press and know how to use it.

Most strings companies have there strings clipped together at proper length to start as well. It gives you a good starting point . The Gas strings I placed on my 05 UT I used their clipped in twists and never turned a loop! It is exactly where it was from Gas still today not one twist added.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

bucknasty said:


> well, i guess what has worked for others won't work for you and if you mess it up doing it his way you shouldn't have started in the first place and won't have a reference and will have to take a bow in a press to a shop. seriously. and i don't think the ratchetloc press has legs. this is the kind of attitude i wouldn't listen to when getting help with your bow. there are lots of ways to skin a cat and you'd be amazed what you may forget while getting the string out of the slide.



ROTFLMAO!!!!!!! Man that is the second funniest thing I have read in a real long time. I almost spit my drink on my monitor.

Let me start by saying that no the ratchet loc doesn't have legs, but they have a mount that allows you to mount it to a bench. However Walks with a Gi's press (you know the one you mentioned) doesn't have legs either.  

Secondly I was only offering/suggesting an easier way to re string your bow. are you gonna take a pic everytime you need to put a twist in the cable? You know just like you said there is more than one way to skin a cat. What is there to forget if all you have off the cam is one end of one string? Dude if you forget that the loop goes on the peg with no string on it in 5 seconds then you don't need to be working on a bow, it might not be a good idea for that person to be shooting a bow (or to leave the house for that matter without someone with them, they may never come back). You might forget what to do after you draw your bow back. Are you gonna remeber how to let out the tension from the press, you did it so long ago?

As for not wanting advise on a bow from a person like me (this is the part that I almost lost my drink on).....my man I have set up, tuned, built strings for, changed cams and limbs on more bows in the past year than you have put peeps in. I know my stuff. I have helped more people on AT set up a bow, or fix a problem they have with their form or equipment then you have posts. So don't look a gift horse in the mouth. Or go bumpin them gums about who knows what they are talking about. I never said that it was a bad idea and I did not take a shot at your idea....I did say that I find it to be a waste of time, however I explained why I felt that way. T

aking pics of certain things is a very good idea but it is not needed and won't really help you change strings.


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## bucknasty (Jun 18, 2004)

brown hornet, i realize you're all of 31 years old and have forgotten more than i'll ever know even though i've got you by 7 years, but can you remember the very first time you did it? i honestly forgot which way stuff went around the cam with the side that comes off the idler. it happened when i took my eyes off the cam to get the string out of the slide. i still remember. i didn't take pics either, never have, but it sure would have helped me a lot considering i put it around the wrong way, took it out of the press and drew it. at that point i knew something wasn't right and went and grabbed my owners manual and figured it out from a picture. i still remember that feeling in my stomach when i was wondering and scared i was going to mess up my bow. maybe its been too long and you don't remember those nerves the first time. 

well, i'm not sure what you call the things that wwag's press stands up on when your bow is in it, but around here we call them legs. 

probably what we should do is just make this your forum and elevate you to the status of demigod. have a :beer:


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

Actually I am 30 not 31. However age has nothing to do with it. I learned my bow tuning from one of the top archers in the country(who is around 60) and my best friend who has been shooting and tuning bows for well over 20 years (yes he is older than me). Sure you are gonna mess up that is part of the learning curve. Are you gonna twist things the wrong way sometimes? Sure are, heck I still do it when I am rushing. But that is the beauty of learning. It is also the beauty of taking it off one loop at of the time and replacing it right away. You can always look at the other end. 


His press isn;t sold with legs, unless he changed it recently. 


I am not saying we need to make this my forum. It already is. :wink: Or that I am better than everyone or know it all. I am not and I don't. But I don't like being told basicly that I don't know what I am talking about and don't listen to me. I only give advice when I know what I am talking about. 

As for the :beer: I am already having one. Now if the izza: guy would just hurry up. :smile:


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## PatrickH (Jan 15, 2005)

*More Info*

I hate to get this thread back on track, but I have a few questions. I just replaced my cable and string for the first time (no pics and it came out fine. Pictures may have helped confidence though). How do I adjust the buss cable and string to get the correct brace height and axle to axle leingth? I am using the prestretched Shooter's Edge strings, so I hope to only have to do it once. Also what happens if you make the brace height or axle-to-axle distance shorter or longer? I am sure some of you have played with this before.
Thanks, Patrick


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## robertyb (Jul 19, 2004)

Hate to intervene but what do you call the things on the bottom of the bowmender?


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## robs archery (Mar 22, 2004)

they are legs. and it is one nice portable press


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## jerrytee (Feb 5, 2005)

I change the cables and the string on my bow ,without the need for a bow press. But then I shoot an Oneida.


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## bucknasty (Jun 18, 2004)

that press looks just like mine. i call them legs too, but different strokes for different folks. brownhornet may call them 'white things to make the press stand up', or 'things i didn't know were there.' 

to the bh ata question. is it 1 cam or 2, or cam.5? we'll need to know before we let you know how to adjust it, or maybe ol brownhornet will do it with his special powers.


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## 1bowhntr (Jan 2, 2005)

*Cam .5*

I apologize for jumping in, but could you please explain how to adjust ATA and BH for a 2005 ProTec cam .5. 

In addition, I have enjoyed reading this thread. My Bowmaster press has legs also. They are my wifes :smile: Every time I start working on my bow, I am always saying, "Honey, could you come hold this for a minute ( which usually ends up being 15 minutes)! 

Anyway , I have changed many strings in my 25 years of shooting, but never buss/control cables. So, a little help would be much appreciated. And, in case you need to know, I'm 38 :smile:


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## bucknasty (Jun 18, 2004)

you'll have to get a hoyt man for the cam.5. wish i could help, buy my know-how stops with a single or dually.


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## Nino (Jul 9, 2002)

"you'll have to get a hoyt man for the cam.5". 

That would be Brownhornet 

"wish i could help, buy my know-how stops with a single or dually."

Nope if you know how to work on a dually you know how to work on a C.5 it's the same. 

"that press looks just like mine. i call them legs too, but different strokes for different folks. brownhornet may call them 'white things to make the press stand up', or 'things i didn't know were there.' "

That was funny! :thumbs_up


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## bucknasty (Jun 18, 2004)

wouldn't be right for me to explain something about a bow i haven't worked on, or even toyed around with, or even given a close look though. 

i thought it was funny too. he seems like he can take it.


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## PatrickH (Jan 15, 2005)

*Parker*

It is a Parker Hunter Mag single cam bow. Question is how to adjust for brace height and axle to axle leingth?
Thanks, Patrick


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## CPaynter (Mar 12, 2004)

so its my understanding, that you need to back out your limb bolts before pressing? so i'm interested in what happens after you take the bow out of the press. I think i read you need to have your limbs turned all the way up to get your bow to the right specs. Well what if its not? Then you back them out, press, and twist cable/string and then take it out of the press and turn them all the way back up to check. Am I understanding this right?


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## bucknasty (Jun 18, 2004)

it depends patrick. did it come with timing marks on the cam or some way to identify when its timed? is there a 'tuning gap' listed in the manual. if its already timed and you want to shorten ata and increase bh you'll need to put about 2 twists in the string for each twist you put in the cable. same is true in reverse. this will leave your cam in roughly the same postion it was in before you did anything, but change your ata and bh. if you need to put more that 3 twists in your string i suggest putting half in from one side and half in the other. sometimes twists will pile up on 1 side of the idler wheel if you don't. if your cam has timing marks on it but they aren't lined up where they are supposed to be you can pull on your string a little and if that makes your cam go the right direction then twisting your string or loosening your cable will work. if pulling the cable towards the riser makes the cam rotate to where it would be timed then twisting the cable or untwisting the string would help. if your cam doesn't have timing marks (usually they go on the cam and the limb splits them), you should be able to call parker. ask for someone in the technical dept and ask them what the tuning gap is for your bow and exactly how to measure it. then get it timed and then adjust bh and ata. you could do it differently, all at once, but this way will work until you can just look at, take a couple measurements, and say ok if i do xyz it'll be right. after making twists and unpressing the bow, draw it a few times and let what you've done settle in. usually after doing this, if your cable looks like its got your cam rotated .5-1 twists too far, after shooting it will fall right in place. good luck.


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## bucknasty (Jun 18, 2004)

cpaynter, yes, its a good idea to back the limb bolts out 1 full turn each from bottomed out to press the bow. remember, once you've unpressed the bow and put the limb bolts back to bottomed out (or 1/4 turn shy), draw and let down a couple time. this will come really close to showing you what your adjustment did, but shooting it a few times will usually show the same effect as untwisting your cable .5-1 times. if you shoot normally with your limb bolts turned down 1 turn or so, your bh should be a hair longer than spec and your ata a hair shorter. 
also remember, most companies specs are +/- 1/4". bows aren't cookie cutter an each one is different.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

*Charlie Murphy*

that was pretty good......the white things to make the press stand up part. :wink: Like I said before they didn't used to come with white things. 

Keep it coming I can take it, but remember I can also dish it out. :beer:


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## jonnybow (Aug 27, 2002)

I'm just reading this thread for the first time and I'd have to agree with brownhornet, if you take one end of the string off and immediately replace it with the end of the new string and then as you take off the old, replace with the new, you'll never have any problem.

I learned this way and teach this way as well.

This is how I learned to change brakes in my car when I was a kid and sometimes, I still use this method when working on many things. If you take everything apart and then try to replace, you might forget where things go but if you do it step by step, replacing what you are disassembling immediately, it is much easier.

Sometimes the man is rough but this time, he's giving solid advice.

Jon


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## TX Bowhunter (Dec 13, 2004)

*Great advice*



bucknasty said:


> well, you're going to need a bow press and know how to use it. if you've got that down i'd suggest taking pictures from a few angles before you begin. you would be amazed how confused you can get your first few times. do not do like my neighbors co-worker and cut the old ones off with a pocket knife, yes, i'm serious. do one thing at a time. i would also have someone i could call or email that can explain to you what twisting/untwisting each part will do. its very do-able. have you ever watched it being done. that may be a first step. anyone i sell a set to, i walk them thru it the whole way if they need it.
> 
> yep, if you're going to do it take pics of the cam(s) from both sides and the cable guard from both sides before hand. if i can be of any further help shoot me a pm and i'll give you my phone # and we can set up a time for you to do it that i'll be home for you to call if you need to.


Bucknasty gave you great advice and I would be more than happy to help also if he is not available. I have taken off and put on hundreds of sets of cables and strings and I still have to refer back to pics from time to time just to make sure the individuals bow is right.

John


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## OntarioArch (Mar 21, 2005)

*Changing String's*

I changed my string and cable's on my Dually for the first time ,althought it was a little testy I learned alot about my bow and am glad I did it myself .You've been given some pretty valid info here and am sure if you run into snag's you'll have lot's of help.
As what's been said it's very critical that you take all Axle to Axle ,brace and tiller measurement's before you take the old one's off ,you must have a press and then take off the old string first put it on and take all measurement's again if the Ato A is long then you may need to add a twist or 2 ,once your measurement's are back it's time you put the bow back in the press and replace your cable ,then once again you'll take the measurement's again,just remember that there's some flexability here and measurement's might not alway's be the same as what your spec manual tell's you. Get it as close as you can .If your measurement's are now short then you'll need to untwist 1/2 twist at a time and the opposite if your measurement's are long .Remember that you don't need to touch your string since you already had that part correct before you started your cable's . After you've done it once it just get's easier .It's a great way to learn about your bow in a more personal way so good luck because it's not as hard as it may seem.

OntarioArch


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