# Uukha limbs with Gillo riser



## ryan b. (Sep 1, 2005)

Adjust tiller/timing. Where is it currently? 
More details in general. Barebow??


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## Warmuth (May 11, 2018)

Even tiller, three under. it's a barebow so no stabilizers. Going to try playing with the brace height more I think.


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## alithearcher (Sep 18, 2017)

In my case, uukha limbs sound better bolted in, especially if the arrows are on the weak side. Brace height is always high for me which is uncommon. I could only decrease the vibration with weight on long rod while using a back stab as well, but Im interested in how barebow handles the vibration.


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## granite14 (Nov 10, 2014)

I had the same problem.
Sold the limbs. 
Same limbs on another riser sounded fine with no hum.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


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## Rylando (Jul 30, 2016)

Same limbs I use but in 38#, they don't vibrate crazy or anything like that. They like a good high braceheight.


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## Warmuth (May 11, 2018)

I went up to 9.25 and they sound better and vibrate less but still oscillate after the shot. I may try a bit more BH since going up did seem to help. The draw on them is very nice and was the main reason I got them so I'll figure out how to settle them down one way or another.


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## biblethumpncop (May 14, 2004)

I have a G2 riser and long Uukha Ex1 Evo2 in 34#. I run a flemish 8190F string and shoot a 8 7/8” BH. I have a set of limb savers on it and it doesn’t jump around anymore. Doesn’t sound like a .22lr going off now either.


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## j.conner (Nov 12, 2009)

I have a G2 with Uukha limbs and must say they are a bit boingy, but Limbsavers quiet that down a bit. Shooting tiny VAPs and stringwalking I figure there is no way the thing will be quiet. Keeping plenty of mass weight on the bow is nice too - either the brass weight or the aluminum weight plus internal weights - seems to isolate the limb vibration from the hand. It shoots like you are holding a brick, very solid and relatively dead in the hand, but I think that also kind of leaves the limbs out there to flap around a bit. Brace height is at 8 7/8" on a 25" riser, string is D75 endless loop, arrows are .500 VAPs with 120gr points with 2" vanes.


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## LaurieC (Feb 27, 2017)

I have the same limbs on a Gillo GQ 23L, and I have the same problem. Nothing that I did ever reduced the noise and vibration, but I like the way they shoot so i just live with it.


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## Warmuth (May 11, 2018)

Moved up to 9 3/8" and it's not terrible at least. Still gives the feeling that a little more noise and vibration could be dialed out of it but considering the feedback here it's probably as good as it's going to get.


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## alithearcher (Sep 18, 2017)

Also Astro flight string is definitely has less noise but slower.


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## GoldArcher403 (Jun 25, 2014)

Warmuth said:


> Even tiller, three under


Uukha limbs like higher brace heights. 9+ might be the way to go. I shoot about 8 3/4" on my Vx1000's. It could also be the tiller. People often look over tiller as the vibration culprit. If your tiller is off, the limbs are not launching simultaneously so after the shot they oscillate back and forth because one limb came back to brace height before the other. Its like shooting a compound with mistimed cams. Sometimes the recommended tiller setting doesn't work. Just depends on the set up. You may actually need to go outside the recommended range to get it to tune. They're usually just starting points anyway.

I learned how to find the sweet spot for tiller from an RA at the Olympic Training Center and the method has worked well for me ever since. You are shooting BB 3 fingers under, but the process is the same I would think. I could be wrong but this is just my suggestion.

-Take any weights off the bow and shoot it as a raw bare bow, just riser, limbs, rest, and plunger.
-Shoot a few ends, keeping your technique as consistent as possible, all while paying attention to how the bow reacts. Make sure you're not grabbing the bow at all.
-If the bow tends to consistently kick upwards, you have too much negative tiller because the bottom limb is reaching brace before the top. Vice versa for the top limb. 
-Start adjusting by backing off (or driving in, depending on the reaction) the tiller bolts 1/8 turn at a time until you get a consistent neutral reaction where the bow doesn't kick up or down, but straight forward.

At this point, the bow should be much quieter. 

Again, this method is used by Olympic shooters using split method but maybe it will work for you. Bare bow experts feel free to correct me...


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## Warmuth (May 11, 2018)

I'm certainly not opposed to trying that. I'll admit I set zero tiller for no other reason than that it's just the common way people are told to set it for three under. I do have a friend who is a bowyer and he has a tillering tree that tracks nock travel so that's worth a shot as well, should reveal a limb imbalance.


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## arc2x4 (Jun 4, 2007)

Something to check, I had the same issue, what I found was that the UUKHA limbs were not really seated all the way. The U notch in the limbs as just slightly too narrow to allow the Gillo bolts all the way in, a small amount of sanding in the limb notches fixed the issue the limbs fully seated and the vibration was eliminated.


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## liquidator4711 (Aug 4, 2016)

Try with a negative tiller of 2-3mm and you may be surprised (in a good way).


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## msjcan1234 (Jun 27, 2004)

Have a G2 and Uukha lims, had some vibrations as well. Able to take most of the vibration out with brace height adjustments. At 8 7/8 “. Hope this helps


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## e30user (Feb 13, 2019)

It sounds like you're already within the zone after your recent adjustments, assuming you're using a 25" riser. But just for reference, here's the suggested brace heights from their manual:
G1-27
-68" bow (short limbs)-------> 8" to 9"
-70" bow (medium limbs)---> 8 3/4 " to 9 3/4"
-72" bow (long limbs)--------> 9 1/2" to 10 1/2"

G1-25 / GQ-25 / G2
-66" bow (short limbs)-------> 8" to 8 3/4"
-68" bow (medium limbs)---> 8 1/2" to 9 1/4"
-70" bow (long limbs)--------> 9 " to 9 3/4"

The manual can be found here: http://www.gilloarchery.it/gillo-g1m-25-.html (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8bc3vrdv...oref=e&preview=GILLO_Riser_Manuale_EN_500.pdf)


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## DanInglis (Feb 5, 2018)

I'm using a brace height of 9.25" (70" bow). I definitely found a longer brace height to be quieter. I'm also using limbsavers which help.


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## Vittorio (Jul 17, 2003)

In general, tiller should be 0 to natural positive (the one built in the pair) for Recurve Olympic, were bow rection can be controlled much easily with stabilizers. For BB, controllig the reaction by weights has limited range of interevent, because of the 12.2 cm ring rule, and tiller adjustment becomes very important. As drawing line in BB stringwalking is much lower than in recuve split fingers, negative tille becomes a must to get agood syncro between limbs. So, basic tiler should be 0 to natural negative (usually reversing limbs upside-down), but as a starting point only. 
Then tiller needs to become much more negative depenting from grip used and distribution of weights. Typical BB archer tends to control tilting and syncro by increasing bottom weight, but this has a very limited effect if weight is not added far to the front, and will easily end up adding too much internal weight to the riser, getting it unbalanced on the vertical axis without significant effect on synchro. 
Things are a bit different for asymmetric risers (G1-27 and the Luxor 27), as center of pressure on hand is almost on the line of draw (if you use the original grips) and therefore 0 tiller may work without too many adjustments. 

Noisy bow comes mainly from
- wrong tiller
- wrong brace
- Tiller bolts unloaded too much
- Not enought turns on string


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## bahboric (Aug 22, 2013)

Vittorio said:


> As drawing line in BB stringwalking is much lower than in recuve split fingers, negative tille becomes a must to get agood syncro between limbs. So, basic tiler should be 0 to natural negative (usually reversing limbs upside-down), but as a starting point only.


Vittorio, this is very interesting and informative. Would you say that for BB (with a 25" Gillo riser and Uukha limbs), one should start with 0 tiller and reversed limbs, and then increase the negative tiller as needed?


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## Vittorio (Jul 17, 2003)

bahboric said:


> Vittorio, this is very interesting and informative. Would you say that for BB (with a 25" Gillo riser and Uukha limbs), one should start with 0 tiller and reversed limbs, and then increase the negative tiller as needed?


Exactly, this is the process for any combination of Risers and Limbs in Bare Bow.

Correct tuning sequence for our risers is:

- Reverse limbs if they have positive tiller in the pair, and keep said tiller as negative one
- Start shooting without any additional weight, and adjust tiller until limbs are in syncro at best.
- Add disk weights the the bottom holes remembering that :
- lower hole--- > riser will increase tilting
- mid hole --> riser will remain almost neutral
- top hole ---> riser neutral too
- Disks on right side only (external of the window side), will decrease riser torsion to the left at release 
- Disks on the left side only not suggested (they will increase torsion at release) 
- Re adjust tiller if needed
- Add one of our dedicated weights on top of the set up of disks reached (suggest -AAA to start) 
- GILLO weight in traditional position for our standard grip or lower profile grips
- GILLO weight in reverse position for high profile grips 
- From here, you can experiment with different center parts of the weight, also in 2 different positions for each of them 
- Re-tuning nocking point and tiller is needed for any change you make, so as usual, tuning is an endless process.


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## j.conner (Nov 12, 2009)

e30user said:


> It sounds like you're already within the zone after your recent adjustments, assuming you're using a 25" riser. But just for reference, here's the suggested brace heights from their manual:
> G1-27
> -68" bow (short limbs)-------> 8" to 9"
> -70" bow (medium limbs)---> 8 3/4 " to 9 3/4"
> ...



Uukha has a different recommendation for their limbs - see https://www.uukha.com/en/FAQ-en.php

For a 68" bow, they recommend a minimum of 208mm (8 3/16"), a mid-point of 218mm (8 5/8"), and a maximum of 228mm (9").


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## chase128 (May 29, 2015)

My 36lb long Uukhas EX1s across Spigarelli Zen, Hoyt Epik, MK MKX10, and Hoyt Horizon either liked a short (Zen - 8 7/8") or long (Hoyt 9.25" and 9 3/8") (MK 9 3/8") brace height, though in nearly all cases I was able to get the EX1s to be very quiet after a brace height tuning. 

This was with 67" (for a 70"bow) 18 strand or 20 strand 8125G strings, and tiller bolts at varying positions depending on the arrows I was shooting*.
*Got my first set of Ex1 Evo2 longs close to when they initially released, so have used them with a bunch of different riser and arrow combos. (NPX 600s, VAP V1 500s, Mach3 600s, Medallion Pro 590s, 2016s, 2315s)


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## John_K (Oct 30, 2011)

Vittorio said:


> Exactly, this is the process for any combination of Risers and Limbs in Bare Bow.


Vittorio, I've always been curious about this. What's the actual difference between swapping the limbs around to get negative tiller, and using the limbs the correct way around but adjusting the tiller bolts to get negative tiller? In other words, why is it better to reverse the limbs than simply adjust the limb bolts?


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## Vittorio (Jul 17, 2003)

John_K said:


> Vittorio, I've always been curious about this. What's the actual difference between swapping the limbs around to get negative tiller, and using the limbs the correct way around but adjusting the tiller bolts to get negative tiller? In other words, why is it better to reverse the limbs than simply adjust the limb bolts?


As I explained long time ago on THA, the modern industrial produced limbs are not made in pairs, but just coupled for poundage as tight as possible after production. Objective is to have them identical in the pair, but usual tolerance from traditional archery is 1/8 to 1/4 of inch positive in pairing. 

Tilller adjustment by bolts in reality only changes the angle of the riser in relationship to each limb, as to really adjust tiller keeping angles same on riser, you can only file the limbs (and Bowyers do this!) 
It is ever better to avoid to have limbs working too much far from their natural tiller, for a good synchro. If Tiller is zero, and you want a bit more on angle to the vertical for your riser, it does not matter if you go by the upper or lower bolt. But of course if tilelr in the pair is significant, better to start already to increase it from the right side in order not to go too far.


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## John_K (Oct 30, 2011)

I understand. Thank you, as always, for taking the time to explain


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## pbara2001 (Oct 27, 2018)

I have the same limbs with a W&W TFT raiser. Had the same problem. I tried several brace heights and tiller combinations, no big change. 20 strand string and a stabilizer with a damper did the job for me. Now it is quite and it doesn't vibrate.


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## ibboone (Nov 10, 2015)

Tag for later. 

Dan


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## jlimoco (Aug 29, 2018)

I'm new to archery and haven't learned all the tricks yet. Please forgive my questions if they seem uninformed. Is there a way to increase brace height beyond twisting the string. I can barely get the g1 27 to the recommended 9.5"


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## MartinOttosson (May 31, 2011)

jlimoco said:


> I'm new to archery and haven't learned all the tricks yet. Please forgive my questions if they seem uninformed. Is there a way to increase brace height beyond twisting the string. I can barely get the g1 27 to the recommended 9.5"


Use a shorter string. 

You could probably make one or two knots on the string if you want to try a higher brace height but they are hard to untie if you change your mind. And it looks kind of strange...


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## e30user (Feb 13, 2019)

jlimoco said:


> I'm new to archery and haven't learned all the tricks yet. Please forgive my questions if they seem uninformed. Is there a way to increase brace height beyond twisting the string. I can barely get the g1 27 to the recommended 9.5"


Do you know any details about your string? Such as the length and where you got it from? Also, what's the size of your bow with the limbs?


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## Itsjtome (Jan 13, 2019)

I would just sell the limbs


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## GlennRP (Apr 27, 2019)

I m going to try the Barebow set up on my G2 as Vittorio suggested and see what happens. 
I would like my setup (25" Gillo G2/WinWin Winex2 Long 34lb) to be more forgiving of my bad shots for WA field. Like the OP I have a bit more vibration than I would like and have put on limb dampers to compensate. Maybe setting up the bow as Vittorio suggests is a better starting point. So with my limbs I presume the Upper goes in the bottom riser limb pocket and then the Lower limb in the top riser pocket so reversing tge limbs and tgen starting on Zero tiller with a totally bare bow. Is it best to start at mid brace or work my way from low to high or does it not matter? Nock height? 

I am currently trying to get my bow rig set up for WA field so 5 - 50m using Martin Ottoson s method of shooting at paper from 10 - 15m with fletched and bareshafts and plotting the line or curve it makes. I made a progressive spring as well for my Beiter and set centreshot to line up directly with the string. 

I will go back and strip off all weights, reverse limbs and get the bow right the Vittorio way and then tune again like MartinO. 

Very interesting thread since I was about to buy a set of #36 Long Ex1 limbs.


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## BlasterMcMassiv (Aug 20, 2018)

Yes


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