# Please go buy a bow scale...



## Greysides (Jun 10, 2009)

A hand held baggage scales will work and be easier to acquire, and cheaper, than some of the 'purpose-made' stuff.


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## gma (Aug 22, 2012)

Dang it, and all this time I've been loading up a bucket with everything heavy I could find in my garage, then hauling the bucket to the bathroom scale. This looks much easier. :O


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## Robert43 (Aug 2, 2004)

Really good advice I laugh when people ask what weight am I pulling I say same thing get a scale from a fishing shop & you will know


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## SoMe0nE2tAlK2 (May 7, 2013)

How do you know if you're pulling to your draw length on a hanging scale?

I assume marking the walls is probably best but I don't particularly have that option. I suppose I could have somebody help me out and hold a yard stick or something while I pull the bow. Just curious how some of you guys measure the distance you're pulling.


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## Arsi (May 14, 2011)

SoMe0nE2tAlK2 said:


> How do you know if you're pulling to your draw length on a hanging scale?
> 
> I assume marking the walls is probably best but I don't particularly have that option. I suppose I could have somebody help me out and hold a yard stick or something while I pull the bow. Just curious how some of you guys measure the distance you're pulling.


I use a digital luggage scale but it works with all types of scales. Warning, this isnt considered safe by any means but its what I do so BE CAREFUL. Ill draw back the bow with an arrow loaded towards a target with the luggage scale hooked to the string and then ill keep pulling until it clicks and then read the display.

http://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-Scale-Digital-0-05-Pounds/dp/B0012TDR9E/

This is what I have. I dont have it mounted anywhere. When im drawing back, im holding the thing in my hands. Like a huge compound release.


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## SoMe0nE2tAlK2 (May 7, 2013)

Arsi said:


> I use a digital luggage scale but it works with all types of scales. Warning, this isnt considered safe by any means but its what I do so BE CAREFUL. Ill draw back the bow with an arrow loaded towards a target with the luggage scale hooked to the string and then ill keep pulling until it clicks and then read the display.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-Scale-Digital-0-05-Pounds/dp/B0012TDR9E/
> 
> This is what I have. I dont have it mounted anywhere. When im drawing back, im holding the thing in my hands. Like a huge compound release.


I've considered holding it in my hand but I thought it'd be difficult to get my anchor point right with a scale in my hand.
I also don't have a clicker but that's a great idea for those that do.


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## HikerDave (Jan 1, 2011)

Arsi said:


> I use a digital luggage scale but it works with all types of scales. Warning, this isnt considered safe by any means but its what I do so BE CAREFUL. Ill draw back the bow with an arrow loaded towards a target with the luggage scale hooked to the string and then ill keep pulling until it clicks and then read the display.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-Scale-Digital-0-05-Pounds/dp/B0012TDR9E/
> 
> This is what I have. I dont have it mounted anywhere. When im drawing back, im holding the thing in my hands. Like a huge compound release.


Mine is on a hook for the support for my back patio roof. I put the bow string on the hook of the scale, load an arrow onto the bow, under the clicker, and then pull the bow down to the ground. I draw the bow, not the arrow. When the clicker clicks I take my reading. I get the exact draw weight when the clicker clicks, the arrow can't come off the hook, and if it does it will hit the ground.


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## jhinaz (Mar 1, 2003)

SoMe0nE2tAlK2 said:


> I've considered holding it in my hand but I thought it'd be difficult to get my anchor point right with a scale in my hand.


You don't have to 'get to your anchor point', you just need to get the tip-point of your arrow through the clicker.....if you don't use a clicker then have someone mark the shaft at the back of the riser when you're at full draw (using your normal anchor and tab), then have them tell you when you've pulled the arrow tip to that 'mark' when you pull with the scale. - John


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

jhinaz said:


> You don't have to 'get to your anchor point', you just need to get the tip-point of your arrow through the clicker.....if you don't use a clicker then have someone mark the shaft at the back of the riser when you're at full draw (using your normal anchor and tab), then have them tell you when you've pulled the arrow tip to that 'mark' when you pull with the scale. - John


Quite. That is what we do for people who don't have clickers. Or you can put a clothes pin on your arrow shaft.


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

> How do you know if you're pulling to your draw length on a hanging scale?


Oh my.


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

limbwalker said:


> Oh my.


It's a legit question. Of you think people should use a fishing scale to measure their actual draw weight then you do a disservice if you make fun of them for asking the best way to use it.

Even so I can't help but smile at the George Takai reference.


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

I don't think there is any point in offering common sense advice halfway. Why tell people to use a bow scale if you aren't willing to also suggest good ways to use it? Even people who know how to use a bow scale could learn something.

I can think of a half dozen different ways to measure actual draw weight, from holding the bow normally pulling back an arrow through the clicker with a luggage or Easton bow scale; through using a tiller stick on a bathroom scale; to suspending a bow on a wall-mounted dowel, attaching a scale to the string and pulling down on the scale using a rope and pulley rig attached to the lower part of the wall or the floor, all while referencing a wall mounted measuring tape for True or AMO DL. Yet for all the ways that I know or can think up, I'd still like to know how you do it. It might be a better way than I know, or it might give me a way to improve on something I already know.

BTW, since I've never heard your voice, from now on all your posts will sound like the voice of George Takei in my head


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

> I don't think there is any point in offering common sense advice halfway.


There are times, when I don't even feel like offering half the advice I do. 

Sorry. Grumpy morning. Too little sleep last night, and it's already 90 degrees here


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## Archer-E (May 15, 2013)

On the bright side, at least your heat is dry. High humidity sucks.


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

I forgot to mention, the humidity is about 85% here too.


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## vabowdog (Dec 13, 2007)

Cabelas has the Xspot for 19.99 and it is a bow scale will tell you the max and all....great scale that others get $50 for!!!!


Dewayne


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

tie a piece of string to the hook, get a tape measure--measure and mark off the necessary DL...drape the string across the shelf...pull as necessary--no need for an arrow.


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## edgerat (Dec 14, 2011)

http://martinarchery.shptron.com/p/digital-bow-scale/electronic-accessories?pp=12 I use this one(same as the Cabelas one), combined with an Easton Draw length arrow http://www.3riversarchery.com/Easton+Draw+Length+Indicator+Shaft_i6769_baseitem.html with a rubber bunny blunt on the end of it.


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## w8lon (Jun 2, 2012)

How timely, my new scale arrived in todays mail, don't trust digital, so here is what I found. New in box on the auction site for $25

www.rubbermaidcommercialproducts.com/c270/7800-Dial-Hanging-Scale-p1948.html


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## Poldi (Mar 3, 2012)

Greysides said:


> A hand held baggage scales will work and be easier to acquire, and cheaper, than some of the 'purpose-made' stuff.


yes.


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## spangler (Feb 2, 2007)

I use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00186R2UG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which I picked up for $50. I have tested it and found it accurate and repeatable, plus it hooks into both the string jig and the draw board I'm making and can handle the tension required.

If you prefer non-digital: http://www.amazon.com/Moultrie-440-Pound-Game-Scale/dp/B000KKD09I/ref=pd_sim_hpc_4 for just 20 bucks.

The quality of the first one I linked seems pretty doggone nice and not cheap. I'm glad I went that route over cheap walmart junk.


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

overkill... LOL!

BTW, my "cheap walmart junk" has held up pretty well for 8 years now, so I wouldn't be afraid to buy another one. 

But for your 432# bow, that would be a most useful scale indeed  

Point is, just get one if you don't have one. They ain't expensive.

Another think I'm shocked that most archers don't have is a $30 digital grain scale. But I guess that's another thread, eh?


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## yeahyeah (Feb 3, 2013)

drill a hole in the end of a wooden yard stick and put it on the same hook as the bow string...pull down and look!


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

yeahyeah, that's a pretty clever idea.


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## agillator (Sep 11, 2011)

Inexpensive draw board:

No doubt you could rig something less expensive, but this has worked well for us. You can use it with your stabilizers still on. The only costs were the winch ($23 eBay) and the scale ($5 Amazon). Everything else was collecting dust in the garage. 

The eye bolts are screwed into holes drilled into the edge of the particle-board shelf board. 
The riser is held against the foam insulation at its grip by a piece of shaft through the eyebolts. I put tape on the shaft piece to protect the riser finish.

Clamp to the end of a bench or table of sufficient height to clear the limbs. I always point any arrows at a target butt. 

Put an arrow in. Draw to click. Read the scale.









The scale hook is attached to the bow string with a loop of paracord.


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## w8lon (Jun 2, 2012)

New scale now hanging above bow bench, OCD then kicked in as I had a spare part,,,,,hmmm what to do? Once saw a string break on a 90#+ compound break during the weigh in, too much pressure applied from the s-hook. This was before the advent of string loops of course, may have broke anyways the next time the shooter drew.

I had this thinga a ma bobbie for hanging a basket that came with scale. Why not spread the pressure out on the string like them fingers? What a happy scale!


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## spangler (Feb 2, 2007)

limbwalker said:


> But for your 432# bow, that would be a most useful scale indeed


String jig too, pesky compound strings, applying tension to 300# when serving


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## jmvargas (Oct 21, 2004)

i have used the Easton hand-held digital scale ever since it came out and it's excellent...

..but a bit pricey at about $150 when i got it and i believe it has been discontinued..

PS...i also have the spring scales mentioned but the Easton is really more accurate..


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## Seattlepop (Dec 8, 2003)

Draw/limb weight scales: I see several listed under $10 that even hold the reading. Here is just one example:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/40Kg-10g-Di...=US_Pocket_Digital_Scales&hash=item4165a458b2

Even less than $30 now, John...

Digital grain scale - I have this one and it works great. A 50g test weight (from Ohaus) comes in at 50.05g, accurate enough for my skill level: $14 shipped. There are others for under $10, but the Horizon goes just over a pound total capacity. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Horizon-DS-...=US_Pocket_Digital_Scales&hash=item4d0d8d545a


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## Destroyer (Sep 11, 2009)

limbwalker said:


> Time and time again, I see questions here and am asked by archers "how much weight am I pulling?"


See a post asking the same question then either ignore or reply, starting a whole new thread whining about isn't going to do much good. 



Robert43 said:


> Really good advice I laugh when people ask what weight *am I pulling* I say same thing get a scale from a fishing shop & you will know


So you don't know what weight you are drawing???


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## julle (Mar 1, 2009)

w8lon said:


> New scale now hanging above bow bench, OCD then kicked in as I had a spare part,,,,,hmmm what to do? Once saw a string break on a 90#+ compound break during the weigh in, too much pressure applied from the s-hook. This was before the advent of string loops of course, may have broke anyways the next time the shooter drew.
> 
> I had this thinga a ma bobbie for hanging a basket that came with scale. Why not spread the pressure out on the string like them fingers? What a happy scale!
> View attachment 1688631
> ...


I wanted to make a similar contraption to see how much i was actually drawing. You actually pull more then you measure with your scale, your fingers straighten out the string meaning you have to stress your limbs more to get through the clicker. 
But considering just about everyone just measures with one hook below the nock makes the comparison with others invalid and useless.


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## w8lon (Jun 2, 2012)

Very good point, Julle, perhaps having a moment of OCD isn't so bad after all. After looking at my chosen scale I see that the gizzy was for hanging on slot wall. Works great and nice to be able to balance the bow and be able to do other things other worry if your bow is going to slide away on the s-hook.


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## LBinTN (Sep 30, 2010)

Saw at Tractor Supply a scale for $5 this eve. Just thought I'd throw that out there for anyone wanting to experiment.


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## DIV (Apr 12, 2012)

My friend, mentor and shooting partner Seattle Pop (posted earlier) always graces me (a one year veteran of recurve shooting) with great advice and one of the two things he said I should buy despite the high price was the Easton digital bow scale (the other was the Beiter plunger). It was not cheap and it's hard to find as it's discontinued, but the Easton digital bow scale was so worth it...I never regret the money I spent on it. Super easy to use!
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/easton-hand-held-digital-bow-scale.html


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## RickBac (Sep 18, 2011)

Here is Arizona we have a couple of the Easton scales and they are awesome. As stated earlier, they are no longer available.

One of our judges at a big tournament this weekend brought this new scale from Cabelas.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Hunt...Rprd745056&WTz_l=SBC;BRprd745056;cat103863780

Seems to fit the bill at a reasonable price.


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## jmvargas (Oct 21, 2004)

DIV said:


> My friend, mentor and shooting partner Seattle Pop (posted earlier) always graces me (a one year veteran of recurve shooting) with great advice and one of the two things he said I should buy despite the high price was the Easton digital bow scale (the other was the Beiter plunger). It was not cheap and it's hard to find as it's discontinued, but the Easton digital bow scale was so worth it...I never regret the money I spent on it. Super easy to use!
> http://www.lancasterarchery.com/easton-hand-held-digital-bow-scale.html


.....+1.


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## Marooned (May 3, 2012)

subscribed


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## Joe T (Apr 5, 2003)

A tip about weighing a bow using a hanging hook/scale:

Hang the *riser *from the weighing scale hook with a sling, zero the scale and pull down on the string (you can use a foot loop onto the string so your not trying to look at two places at the same time. If you hang the bow via the bow string the weight of the bow messes up the reading somewhat.


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## FS560 (May 22, 2002)

No!
When you hang the bow with the string over the hook, the mass weight of the bow actually draws the bow a little bit. The draw weight for that small amount of draw length will be the reading on the scale. Everything remains zeroed.

The most accurate is vertical for spring scales due to scale friction. Vertical, even with a digital is easier to control, pulling the bow down carefully.

I agree that zeroing the scale with the bow handle hanging on it will work but is difficult with a spring scale.

This argument has been going on for at least 45 years that I am aware of.

When using a spring scale, do not depend on the zero mark on the scale. It must be calibrated. I used 25# bags of target grade #7.5 shot. And just because your scale may be calibrated at 50# it may be off at 25#.

For some time now, I have been using digital, but still check the calibration.


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## chrstphr (Nov 23, 2005)

Joe T said:


> A tip about weighing a bow using a hanging hook/scale:
> 
> Hang the *riser *from the weighing scale hook with a sling, zero the scale and pull down on the string (you can use a foot loop onto the string so your not trying to look at two places at the same time. If you hang the bow via the bow string the weight of the bow messes up the reading somewhat.


Not correct.

zero the scale first. Then hang the bow. The bow weight will draw the string slightly but its the same as if you were drawing the string slightly. If you zero the bow scale after you hang the bow, you will not get an accurate reading but a lower reading. 

It is a mistake to zero out the weight of the bow because you are measuring DRAW weight. not draw weight minus the first half inch of draw. The weight of the bow is just giving you the beginning of the draw. 

If you hold the bow upright as if to shoot and pul the sting 1/4 inch, thats the beginning of the draw. If you hang the bow on its string horizontally and the bow weight causes the string to draw 1/4, thats still the beginning of the draw. You dont minus that out. 

If you use a handheld scale, you dont draw 1/4 inch, and then zero it out and then continue the draw. Makes no difference if the bow is upright or horizontal, the draw is measured from same. from the string exactly straight, to a measured distance or the clicker. 




Chris


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## Ranger 50 (Mar 2, 2012)

This makes sense. The problem I have with the spring scale I use is that there is a scale mounted behind it to show draw length. If you draw to 28" the hook with the string can move up to 2" down for a 26" draw. Do I continue measuring until there is a full 28" draw? I think so. I solved the problem by VERY CAREFULLY loading an arrow and measuring the draw weight after the arrow passed through the clicker. BE CAREFUL DOING THIS!

Turns out my 42# long limbs measure at 44# at full draw. Just bought a digital luggage scale to confirm this. I'll try it again with the arrow pointed down range.

After that I will measure at 1" increments to graph how my limbs stack. The scale is coming from Amazon on Wed. I'll try to post my results by the weekend. It would be nice to see how limbs compare in a real life setting.


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## Ranger 50 (Mar 2, 2012)

In re-reading both the posts from JoeT and Chris. Both methods are correct.

Zero the scale if hanging the riser, because you have not begun to draw the string and need to compensate for the weight of the riser.
Don't zero if you hang from the string, because you have begun the draw.


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## straat (Jan 22, 2009)

Seems to me the most accurate will be a scale mounted to a solid wall at bow hand height, attach the riser to the scale and then you just draw the bow like you normally would. This way you take into account how you grip the string which might be different if you draw the string with a metal hook somewhere around the nock.


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## chrstphr (Nov 23, 2005)

Ranger 50 said:


> In re-reading both the posts from JoeT and Chris. Both methods are correct.
> 
> Zero the scale if hanging the riser, because you have not begun to draw the string and need to compensate for the weight of the riser.
> Don't zero if you hang from the string, because you have begun the draw.



Oh, i see, he is hanging the RISER with the bow pointed up and zeroing it out, and then pulling the string down. Then yes that would be correct. But he does say the weight of the riser interferes with the reading if the riser hangs down which is incorrect. The weight of the riser doesnt interfere with the reading, it just begins the draw.

I have never seen a scale that held the riser. All the scales i have see operate hold the string.

I prefer the bow pointing down so if something bad happens the arrow will go down. I put a target on the floor under my scale in my garage. Never had a mishap, but better to be safe and protect the arrow. 


Chris


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## Ranger 50 (Mar 2, 2012)

That is kind of what I am doing except the small digital scale is in my draw hand attached to the string. I draw the bow normally and record the weight.


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## Joe T (Apr 5, 2003)

Ranger 50 said:


> In re-reading both the posts from JoeT and Chris. Both methods are correct.
> 
> Zero the scale if hanging the riser, because you have not begun to draw the string and need to compensate for the weight of the riser.
> Don't zero if you hang from the string, because you have begun the draw.


Close to correct but not really what I meant. If you hang the bow from the string you are going to get an error with the draw weight because the amount the "draw" extends does not correspond with the read weight on the scale - this is the wrong assumption being made by the posters above.

Say you have two 5Kg weights and you hang the bow from a scale via the string. If you add a 5Kg weight to each limb tip then the scale reading goes up 10Kg but the amount the bow is drawn is small. Move the weights to somewhere on the riser; again the scale reading goes up 10 Kg and this time the bow is drawn a greater distance some amount but how much "depends" on the bow mass/geometry distribution as well as where you attach the weights. Like tiller the amount the bow is drawn depends not only on the force but the leverage the force has on the limb.

If you hang the bow from the riser then the riser/llimb mass distributions are excluded from the scale measurement, the mass of the sting will have a negligible effect.

The traditional draw weight measurement method originated with longbows where you had a high draw weight and a very light bow so the mass error didn't matter. If you have a scale of this type easy enough to measure the draw weight by the two methods and see what if any difference it makes.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

*One more way...no scale*

One more way.

I tie my riser to the ceiling hook, or whatever is handy
that is attached to the rafters in the garage.

Now,
I use some paracord
and tie a loop to the bowstring.

Now,
I attach barbell weights.
Arrow is loaded under the clicker.

AS I get close,
then I tie on 1/2 liter water bottles
and 1/4 liter juice bottles.

I add up the weight plates,
I add up the weight of the 1/2 liter bottles
and 
I add up the weight of the 1/4 liter juice bottles.

I ignore the weight of the paracord loops.


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## Ranger 50 (Mar 2, 2012)

nuts&bolts said:


> one more way.
> 
> I tie my riser to the ceiling hook, or whatever is handy
> that is attached to the rafters in the garage.
> ...


ding!ding!ding! Winner!winner! Chicken dinner!


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## Arsi (May 14, 2011)

Arsi said:


> I use a digital luggage scale but it works with all types of scales. Warning, this isnt considered safe by any means but its what I do so BE CAREFUL. Ill draw back the bow with an arrow loaded towards a target with the luggage scale hooked to the string and then ill keep pulling until it clicks and then read the display.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-Scale-Digital-0-05-Pounds/dp/B0012TDR9E/
> 
> This is what I have. I dont have it mounted anywhere. When im drawing back, im holding the thing in my hands. Like a huge compound release.


As an update. My scale has died. Dont get this one. The battery isnt dead. I swapped the battery out with a new one. When I turn the lights off, I can see the display kind of backlit so I know its getting power. Its just not working any longer.


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## SBills (Jan 14, 2004)

Been using the fishing scale for years. As I shoot barebow I don't have a clicker so my method has been two arrows cut so that they are 26 1/4" (to measure weight @28") or 27 1/4" (to measure weight at my 29"draw) from the groove in the nock. I then draw the arrow and once it passes the plunger tip I have my measurement.

John, I got the tip on these scales from Bob Gordon oh so many years ago.


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## Welshman (Oct 5, 2002)

Go to a Pro Shop.


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## Hank D Thoreau (Dec 9, 2008)

Here is an example of a draw board. This is what I use for generating draw force and stored energy curves. The scale is a low cost Taylor mechanical hanging scale that is accurate to 0.1 pounds. I use the mechanical scale since it does not have a power save feature that turns it off while I am doing my measurements, and it allows you to go back and forth without holding on peak weight. I also do measurements by hand using an Easton bow scale and draw length arrow.

I have not gone the route of fashioning a simulated finger hook. I do not think it is necessary. Performance is only indirectly related to draw weight. The bow performs work through stored potential energy which depends on both draw weight and draw length (actually the integral of the draw force curve). I get more stored energy with the same holding weight than most folks since I draw over 32 inches. What you need is a standard way to compare bows. The simplest standard is to draw from a hook under the nock locator. If you are going to do an energy calculation you might find a difference with a simulated hook. The question is whether it would be large enough to make a difference, and the fact that you would then have to use a similar hook for all measured bows in order to make comparisons...and comparisons is what this is really about.


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## w8lon (Jun 2, 2012)

Hank, I see wiring involved in your setup, DRO with a digitally scaled arrow? May have to build one of these this week myself to compare some of my limbs. Seems simple enough to plot out using Excel and compare them.


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## jmvargas (Oct 21, 2004)

wow!...looking and reading at the trouble/steps some of you guys have to go thru to save some bucks buying a really good bow scale makes me real happy about my easton digital scale..

...all i have to do is pick up any of my bows and go to full draw...put it down...and read the results!!


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## Hank D Thoreau (Dec 9, 2008)

w8lon said:


> Hank, I see wiring involved in your setup, DRO with a digitally scaled arrow? May have to build one of these this week myself to compare some of my limbs. Seems simple enough to plot out using Excel and compare them.


I wish. The wiring is actually for a buzzer that goes off when I get to the desired draw length. It allows me to crank the worm gear and read the scale without having to watch the graduated Easton draw length arrow. There is a clip at the end of the arrow that I set at the point where I want to stop. I put foil on the back of the riser. When the clip hits the foil, the buzzer goes off. That helps with the ease and precision of my measurements....plus it looks cool.

Anyway, transducers are a bit pricey. Maybe someday.

I have a program in Excel where I catalog my test results and produce draw force curves, stored energy curves, first derivative of the draw force curves (aka smoothness curves), force constant curves, energy per weight on the fingers, kinetic energy and bow efficiency. Bows are selected from a database of test results using pull down menus. I can compare up to four bows. If you send me draw force data I will run your bows, along with a comparison. Let me know if you are interested and I will tell you the information that I need. It is quite easy. I use this as a way of expanding my database so that I have more bows to compare to. Comparison to other bows is where you learn.


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## Hank D Thoreau (Dec 9, 2008)

jmvargas said:


> wow!...looking and reading at the trouble/steps some of you guys have to go thru to save some bucks buying a really good bow scale makes me real happy about my easton digital scale..
> 
> ...all i have to do is pick up any of my bows and go to full draw...put it down...and read the results!!


I agree. I do a lot of my measurements with an Easton scale along with an Easton draw length arrow. That is part of my travelling kit where I test other folks bows and provide analysis and comparisons to other bows in my database.


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## ArtV (Jan 29, 2008)

SoMe0nE2tAlK2 said:


> How do you know if you're pulling to your draw length on a hanging scale?
> 
> I assume marking the walls is probably best but I don't particularly have that option. I suppose I could have somebody help me out and hold a yard stick or something while I pull the bow. Just curious how some of you guys measure the distance you're pulling.


Get a long arrow and mark off inch and half inches on the arrow. Put the arrow on your bow and pull to your anchor point while having someone look at the measurement on the arrow you marked. You'll know your draw length. Then click the arrow on your string and hang it from the hook on the weight scale and pull down on the riser until you hit your draw length measurement on the arrow....look at the scale for the poundage you are pulling.


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## TexARC (Mar 5, 2003)

The Easton scale causes less variation in draw length since it fits in the hand much like a mechanical release. I suspect that performing a draw on a bow with a digital scale provides better reliability by far than you can get with a spring scale dangling from a peg. 
That said, with the Easton scale you must be careful to use the same technique and pressure at the fingers on the scale. You can readily vary the reading by first drawing with more pressure under your index finger, then repeat but put more pressure on your middle finger. Difference! 
It is best practice to always draw and read the results at least 3 times, and assess where the true average weight is by doing a WAG....  Kinda like trying to tune using only one arrow. Doh!


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## ArtV (Jan 29, 2008)

John, what do you need a grain scale for?


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## Hank D Thoreau (Dec 9, 2008)

It is hard to beat an Easton scale. Even when I use my draw board, I check at 28 and 32 with the Easton scale. It is really a shame that they are discontinued. They are the standard for testing compound bows at FITA competitions. I went to a shoot that used one of those Feather River scales. I used to have one. It was not even close to the correct weight, though I have to say that the company did say they would try to recalibrate it for me. I bought an Easton scale instead.


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