# Help configuring the (first) bow?



## mouse07410 (Sep 14, 2014)

I'm a beginner, can hardly call myself an archer (yet?). I'm taking classes, but not getting enough answers to my questions, so here I am.

I've decided on my first bow - Samick Sage. Stellar reviews, affordable price, etc. But here questions start popping up.

1. I need to figure the max draw weight. Common wisdom says "get 20#-25# limbs now, and upgrade when you've mastered this level". My financial situation however suggests that it would be much better to get one set of limbs and stick with it. My body build is small frame (draw length about 25"), the guiding tables say that I should be able to handle 45#. Ideally I should get a hold of a 40# (or such) recurve, try to draw, and see. But my instructor doesn't seem to have one available, and my local shop doesn't stock recurves heavier than 25#. My goal is to pick the limbs that I wouldn't need to replace when my skills develop, and my muscles get tuned. In your opinion, would it be possible to learn with a 45# recurve? I realize it would slow down my learning and extend the process - but as long as it doesn't extend it by, say 10 years, I'm OK with it. Another reason for seeking heavier limbs is I want the bow to be able to reach targets farther (eventually), maybe even be usable for hunting though I don't envision it currently. Working with one draw weight would also allow me to keep the same arrows - again money saving. So is it reasonable to build,muscles and form with a stronger bow? I don't have to start immediately shooting arrows, practicing draw for a year would be fine - but practicing for 10 years before I can shoot wouldn't be ) 

2. Does this bow need an arrow rest? If it would benefit from one - any recommendation? what rest would be good for a beginner on this recurve? How does this decision (mount the rest or not) affect the fletching choice? Is it true that off-the-shelf one must use only feathers? One salesperson in the archery shop even said that one shouldn't use vanes with a recurve at all (only with compound). It sounded like BS to me, but I don't know enough yet to validate that statement. Wheeee should the cock vane be - always out (perpendicular to the bow)? When/why would one fletch with the cock vane up (or down)? Can I use fletching other than 3 vanes 120 degrees apart?

3. Brace height. I know the guidelines (7.5" to 8.5"). How does this factor affect performance of the bow? When/why do I want to make it longer or shorter?

4. Arrows. I guess aluminum shafts should do, and I can find the appropriate spine from the tables in the books and online. I understand why arrows shouldn't be shorter than the minimal length (say, draw length + an inch or two). How would extra length affect arrow flight, and what other effects could it have? I.e., do I have to cut my arrow shafts shorter, or can I leave them 30+"? What do I lose if I leave them long?

5. Shooting arrows indoors. I realize I can (and I intend to) use Form Master. But I think I recall reading somewhere that one can tip the arrows with rubber points/heads, and shoot at a heavy blanket at a distance of several yards, safely. Can you confirm? If it is true - is there a limit, like it can be done with a bow of 20# but not heavier?

I'd very much appreciate, if you could guide me here.

Thank you!


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Most of the coaches who post in this section are compound archers. You will likely get much better response in the FITA forum. It's been a few years since I practiced much with a recurve, but I'll try to answer your questions. However, if it conflicts with the posters in the FITA forum, go with what they tell you:

1) Unless you plan to hunt, 25#'s is adequate for most anything you will do with archery until you are shooting to 90 meters. Starting with 45#'s is great way to develop bad habits. You will be way ahead if you stick with a maximum of 25#'s.
2) I think you can shoot off the shelf with the sage, but it will be more consistent if you use a rest. One of the best is the $2.50 Cartel Super stick-on rest.
3) Go with the recommended brace height for now. You can adjust it later when you get into tuning your bow.
4) Get some help with arrow length. It's a major part of tuning. The longer an arrow is, the weaker it acts when shot. This will effect arrow flight.
5) The formmaster is a great training aid. I've never tried using rubber blunts, so can't comment on them. However, for indoor practice, most use a blank bale at 1 or 2 yards. Done properly, you can do a lot to develop your shot.

Hope this helps,
Allen


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## Moebow (Jul 8, 2010)

mouse,

Allen has hit the high points very well! I'll add these thoughts.

1. Everyone has to factor in their own financial situation. But for a bow like the Sage, you can --LATER-- save up and buy heavier limbs. Every hobby has a price tag associated with it and it is what it is. Starting with 25# limbs is smart not only to avoid bad habits but also to reduce the chance of injury from improper execution with heavier limbs at the start.

2. As you start, just use what is on the bow, and don't stress over shelf or elevated rest. Choose one and stick with it for a good period of time.

3. Set the brace height in the middle of the recommended range (in your example 8") and just shoot. Later, you will know when to adjust it.

4. Use inexpensive aluminum arrows for now. Leave them full length because as you learn, your draw length will likely change. With your money situation, you don't need to have to buy new arrows because you cut them and now need longer ones.

5. I don't think most coaches would recommend the rubber blunt approach. A large inexpensive bag target would be better. You may want to avoid shooting in the house for awhile until you gain some proficiency -- an indoor range would be much safer -- initially.

I would think that the reason you aren't getting answers from your current coach is because the questions you are asking have better answers LATER after you have gained some more proficiency. Right now, it is important that you just shoot!! The tuning, arrow length, brace height, etc., etc., etc. comes later. Right now, just get your bow strung, arrows in hand and SHOOT! And then shoot some more. With recurves, learning the mechanics of the shot is much more important (INITIALLY!!!) than any stress or concern about tuning.

Arne


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## mouse07410 (Sep 14, 2014)

@Allen, @Arne, thank you!


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