# How to make deadly broadheads



## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

What follows are basic instructions to make your own deadly broadheads. Three of the five deer I have harvested this year have been with my own heavy broadheads. They have performed beyond expectation.
Disclaimer: I shoot heavy bows, 80-90 lbs, with heavy spined arrows, .300 minumum spine. Don't try shooting heavy broadheads with a light arrow.
Consult the pictures along with the instructions.
Tools needed: Vise, Hacksaw with abrasive blade, metal snips (I use a Craftsman and it works well),a sharp scribe, sharpening equipment
Materials: cardstock papar, thin aluminum (dryer duct guage), 16 guage mild steel, JB weld, Aluminum or steel ferule for mounting 5degree taper socket head for regular screw in tips.
1. Determine your cutting diameter. I generally use 2 inches
2. Draw a paper patters with a center line longitudinally. Here's to all you Trekkers; this pattern is the Star Trek Design. Any number of designs is possible.
3. Transfer to thin aluminum (dryer duct guage). Make sure to keep the center line scribed on the aluminum. The aluminum serves as a durable template.
4. Scribe a straight line on your steel.
5. Lay aluminum template on the line and scribe the design onto the steel.
6. Use snips to cut it out
7. Saw a slot down the center an aluminum ferule. Dont smooth out the burrs as they help hold the JB weld.
8. Mount the blade in your vise point down and JB weld the ferule onto the blade using the centerline to balance the ferule with the blade.
9. Don't touch it for 12 hours.
10. Sharpen with a combination of grinder, files, stones, etc until razor sharp.
11. Mount on a heavy stiff spined arrow and fletch with large helical feathers.
12. Hunt (My state allows barbed arrow heads as long as they meet the cutting diameter requirements. If you's doesn't, don't make your design barbed) My homemade broadheads have a 2 inch cutting diameter and produce very humane kills. Oh yes, they shoot accurately
Questions and comments welcomed


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## bagel77 (Feb 1, 2008)

how heavy are they?


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## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

bagel77 said:


> how heavy are they?


The one in the picture is 285 grains before it is sharpened


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## bagel77 (Feb 1, 2008)

WOW you were not kidding about heavy


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## OOPS! (Jul 5, 2006)

Pretty cool I'm going to have to try this, and I bet they're humane, I don't think anything would want to get hit by that :O


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## WCWade (Oct 22, 2007)

You make that look too easy! Good job!
Got any kill pics?


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## Noobist (Jun 5, 2009)

so if i wanted a 150gr head would i just cut it smaller to begin with, or make according to instructions and then shave it down?
what's the f.o.c. on these with your setup? i use .300 spines as well, but only pull 70# with a 30" arrow.


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## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

Noobist said:


> so if i wanted a 150gr head would i just cut it smaller to begin with, or make according to instructions and then shave it down?
> what's the f.o.c. on these with your setup? i use .300 spines as well, but only pull 70# with a 30" arrow.


The photo below is one of the first broadheads I made. It weighs 145 grains with about a 1 1/8 cutting diameter. The ferule is different as well. I got a deer with it this year mounted on a 29" Beman ICS .300. It passed through both lungs and on out. Front of center on the super heavys is way front unless you shoot 35 inch aluminums or homemade wood arrow. You can make heads to haft directly into wood or use a five degree coverter tip to take threads.


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## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

WCWade said:


> You make that look too easy! Good job!
> Got any kill pics?


I posted kill pics on the hunting forumn under a topic "homemade broadheads" and "homemade arrow and broadhead" I have tried to post the same pictures in other threads, but it doesn't let me. If you click on my user name and ask to see all of my posts, you will see kill pics with homemade broadheads.


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## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

WCWade said:


> You make that look too easy! Good job!
> Got any kill pics?


Yeh, I found one with the 145gr that I made a while ago.


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## blade37defender (Jun 8, 2005)

Where do you get your ferrules from? Can you post a link?

Thanks,
Chris


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## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

blade37defender said:


> Where do you get your ferrules from? Can you post a link?
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris


I got the aluminum ferules from 3rivers archery, but any of the online bow hunting supply places carry them. For a very light ferule you can use an 8-32 aluminum machine screw, slot it with a saw and use a peaice of aluminum tubing as a sleeve. Also, I forgot to mention that you need to pound the head flat after you snip it out of your stock steel.


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## Sir (Oct 14, 2009)

Wow, looks cool. Almost like a medieval arrowhead.


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## General-08 (Feb 2, 2009)

Great, now my wife is going to upset with me because I found another "reason" to be out in my shop. LMAO... Those are wicked looking, I'm going have to go and play around and try making some up. Just the other night I was kidding aound with my buddies saying I was going to build and arrow to hunt coyotes with, so I did. Problem is I figure I need to build a bow with a truck leaf spring to shoot it now, it weighed .6 lbs. Normal grain scale wouldn't read it because it is to heavy. I think the steel mesh fletchings put it over the top. LOL... Anyway, great broad head you made there. :thumbs_up


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## cgarcia67 (Sep 30, 2009)

Very cool Would really like to try something this.


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## kansasboi (Oct 19, 2007)

thanks for the post, i've been wanting to try this too. did you use the 8-32 aluminum screw for the 145 grain head? im tossing beman 400's 28", 60#.

General, post up that coyote arrow.


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## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

kansasboi said:


> thanks for the post, i've been wanting to try this too. did you use the 8-32 aluminum screw for the 145 grain head? im tossing beman 400's 28", 60#.
> 
> General, post up that coyote arrow.


Yes, I used and 8-32 aluminum screw, but there's something better that you can buy at the local Menards called an aluminum screw post extention. It works perfectly for lighter homemade heads. I will try to remember to post a picture of one later today.


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## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

kansasboi said:


> thanks for the post, i've been wanting to try this too. did you use the 8-32 aluminum screw for the 145 grain head? im tossing beman 400's 28", 60#.
> 
> General, post up that coyote arrow.


Here is the picture I promised you. The thread is 8-32 and mandrel is the same size as in any screw in broadhead. Before slotting, screw into the insert you will use and mark the maximum depth you want to cut the slot.


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## jim p (Oct 29, 2003)

Thanks for this post. It is time for me to start gathering up old saws all blades, box cutter blades, and such. Do you think that H Depot would have the screw extension posts? 

What is the lightest BH that you have been able to make? In Alabama the cutting diameter has to be a min of 1" and there is a min thickness of the blade like 0.015" (I need to look this up again). I like shooting 100 grain BHs.

I have thought about taking field tips and heating them and then beating them flat but I have not tried heating them to see how good of a blacksmith I might be. I was thinking that a 150 grain FT might work for shaping and then I could sharpen away 50 grains and be ready to go.

With my hunting abilities I don't need many BHs but it does bother me that BHs are now going for around $10 each.


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## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

*lightest broadhead*

The lightest broadhead I have made is about 100 gr and 1 inch cutting diameter. I have not used it to hunt. I prefer the heavy heads with big cutting diameters.


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## beyo (Nov 16, 2009)

Any ideas for a turkey BH?


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## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

beyo said:


> Any ideas for a turkey BH?


Yes. I have made a turkey broadhead that I believe will be highly effective but I'm not going post it here until I know it works. I will post a how to here after Spring turkey season.


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## nycredneck (Nov 9, 2007)

nagant said:


> The photo below is one of the first broadheads I made. It weighs 145 grains with about a 1 1/8 cutting diameter. The ferule is different as well. I got a deer with it this year mounted on a 29" Beman ICS .300. It passed through both lungs and on out. Front of center on the super heavys is way front unless you shoot 35 inch aluminums or homemade wood arrow. You can make heads to haft directly into wood or use a five degree coverter tip to take threads.


Great looking, awesome BH. But FYI this BH might be considered a barbed head, which is illegal in some states. Would hate to see someone get in trouble for it. Not sure what the angle has to be on the rear of the blade to be considered barbed or not.


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## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

nycredneck said:


> Great looking, awesome BH. But FYI this BH might be considered a barbed head, which is illegal in some states. Would hate to see someone get in trouble for it. Not sure what the angle has to be on the rear of the blade to be considered barbed or not.


That is addressed in step 12 of the original post


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## jim p (Oct 29, 2003)

Home depot did not have the screw post extension. I will have to try Lowe's.


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## Squawsach (Apr 26, 2008)

Am I the only one that thinks the worst, cheapo, store bought broadhead in the world would be more consistant and accurrate than one made with JB weld and a hacksaw? I like the fact that these broadheads were made at home, but really, does anyone think that mild steel, a hacksaw, and JB weld are a safe bet for taking game? I like DIY stuff but this should make broadhead tuner fall out on the floor. Maybe I should stick to the "If you can't say something nice" rule but I hope the avagerage deer hunter doesn't decide to take to the woods with a quiver full of hacksaw braodheads. Sorry, I don't intend to offend but I saw this post and thought it was a joke.


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## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

Squawsach said:


> Am I the only one that thinks the worst, cheapo, store bought broadhead in the world would be more consistant and accurrate than one made with JB weld and a hacksaw? I like the fact that these broadheads were made at home, but really, does anyone think that mild steel, a hacksaw, and JB weld are a safe bet for taking game? I like DIY stuff but this should make broadhead tuner fall out on the floor. Maybe I should stick to the "If you can't say something nice" rule but I hope the avagerage deer hunter doesn't decide to take to the woods with a quiver full of hacksaw braodheads. Sorry, I don't intend to offend but I saw this post and thought it was a joke.


No offense taken, but I see that you have been well indoctrinated by the standard, high tech, super light arrow, philosophy. The arrows that carry these broadheads are very heavy by today's standards and fletch with high profile feathers with an extreme helical. They fly more dependably and penetrate better than any factory broadhead I have used and I have used well tuned factory broadheads with light arrows. All of my homemade heads have completely passed through, cut through bone, and produced massive hemorage. No deer that I have shot has gone more than 40 yards after being hit by one of these. One can tune even a crooked hickory shaft to fly consistently from a compound bow at up to 30 yards providing devastating penetration and better cutting diameter than any fixed blade factory head. This isn't for everyone and obviously not for you, but it does work.


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## Squawsach (Apr 26, 2008)

Nagant, after reading my post again, I have to say thanks for being soo cool about my very negative post. While I still don't like the idea, I respect your DIY attitude. It sounds like you are getting positive results so I will keep my negitivity to myself on this subject and wish you and the others who try this good luck with your projects.


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## Race59 (Dec 7, 2008)

Squawsach said:


> Nagant, after reading my post again, I have to say thanks for being soo cool about my very negative post. While I still don't like the idea, I respect your DIY attitude. It sounds like you are getting positive results so I will keep my negitivity to myself on this subject and wish you and the others who try this good luck with your projects.


I must admit I was a little disappointed in your initial post.... Glad you came back to temper your words a bit. Much to his credit, Nagant does seem to be a gracious individual.

Broadheads are probably the most overhyped part of archery equipment today. $10.00 + each for a few cents worth of material..... Give me a break.

Throughout history there's probably been more animals killed with pointed sticks than any of the high tech crap we have today. At one time placing a sharp rock on the end of that stick would have been quite literally cutting edge technology. 

No matter how you slice it, flesh is no match for steel, even mild steel.

I've inspected quite a few high dollar broadheads after the shot and some of them had folded like tin foil, but the animal was still dead. The homemade broadheads in question here are much more substantial than those, so I have no doubt that they are quite capable of taking any game animal on the North American continent.

If one were to pay strict attention to detail and consistency while building these points flight and accuracy shouldn't be a huge obstacle. If I were to build some myself I would definitely test them before I tried to take an animal, but that's only prudent with any brodhead. 

The key point is if you poke a hole in the right spot the the critter isn't going very far.

If the world keeps heading in the direction it is we may all be making our own broadheads.


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## jhpate (Dec 11, 2003)

Great post, interesting idea but the best thing about the post is the way you too handled differing opinions. So nice to see a adult attitude and politeness. 
thanks guys. 
James:thumbs_up


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## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

*Quick followup*

Here is a picture of the broadhead on a double tapered, heavy hickory arrow. When I get my tripod back from my ground blind, I will publish K.E. figures here in this thread. The bow that will be used for testing is a Browninng Mirage, 90lb draw, 33 inch draw. This arrow is quite accurate. It sounds like a hatchet when it hits the target. I am anxious to chronograph it and calculate the K.E. of this setup.


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## Don Schultz (Jul 5, 2002)

*You are not alone.*

I appreciate and participate in DIY projects but this is my idea of "over the top". Yes, broadheads are expensive, but there are many heads available and those of this same general design are often the lowest priced stuff out there. If I want FOC, I can ballast the arrow with some BBs and JB Weld. 

All that said, if the guy can get a good edge on these things and shoot 'em straight, it's fine w' me.

Muzzy!!



Squawsach said:


> Am I the only one that thinks the worst, cheapo, store bought broadhead in the world would be more consistant and accurrate than one made with JB weld and a hacksaw?......


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## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

Don Schultz said:


> I appreciate and participate in DIY projects but this is my idea of "over the top". Yes, broadheads are expensive, but there are many heads available and those of this same general design are often the lowest priced stuff out there. If I want FOC, I can ballast the arrow with some BBs and JB Weld.
> 
> All that said, if the guy can get a good edge on these things and shoot 'em straight, it's fine w' me.
> 
> Muzzy!!


Sometimes I think we miss the point of why many of us make our own equipment. There is great enjoyment and satisfaction in making something that works well. I don't have to make my own broadheads. I get to make my own broadheads. Do I save money? Yep, but that's not why I do it. I do it because it is fun; it enhances my experience of the hunt; it teaches me more about arrow dynamics than I would learn if I "bought" everything. I also am a reloader. Every deer I have taken with rifle, I have taken with my own loads. I choose to reload because I enjoy ballistics and I love the craft of reloading. Do I save money? Yep, but that's not why I do it. When I started bow hunting, it was very natural for me to start making my own stuff (fletching, arrows, broadheads). The first deer I anchored with one of my homemade, accurate broadheads hooked me just as the first deer I took with my first handloads hooked me. If people can use the information I post, good, if not, that's fine.


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## geeter (Feb 11, 2009)

Nagant,
I think what you're doing is awesome. It also speaks a lot of your character as to how you handled a somewhat negative post earlier. Kudos to Squawsach as well. You guys just gave us two fine examples of how people can disagree without getting vicious.


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## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

nagant said:


> Here is a picture of the broadhead on a double tapered, heavy hickory arrow. When I get my tripod back from my ground blind, I will publish K.E. figures here in this thread. The bow that will be used for testing is a Browninng Mirage, 90lb draw, 33 inch draw. This arrow is quite accurate. It sounds like a hatchet when it hits the target. I am anxious to chronograph it and calculate the K.E. of this setup.


As promised, I said that I would give the K.E. of this setup. K.E. = 100.72fpe
I use an F-1 Chronograph and the Easton K.E. calculator.
Arrow weight = 1728 grains
Velocity = 162 fps
K.E. = 100.72 fpe


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## RunsUpRiver (Jul 22, 2009)

Very interesting method!

Dean


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## AllenRead (Jan 12, 2004)

nagant said:


> Here is a picture of the broadhead on a double tapered, heavy hickory arrow. When I get my tripod back from my ground blind, I will publish K.E. figures here in this thread. The bow that will be used for testing is a Browninng Mirage, 90lb draw, 33 inch draw. This arrow is quite accurate. It sounds like a hatchet when it hits the target. I am anxious to chronograph it and calculate the K.E. of this setup.


This might be a bit light for a full grown whale, but more than adequate for anything else on the planet!:thumbs_up


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## Stash (Jun 1, 2002)

A comment regarding the "precision" of these home-made broadheads - keep in mind, they are not designed for high speed arrows. 

Yes, if you're shooting light arrows travelling over 300 FPS, you do need something that's precisely straight and these will probably not group very consistently. But for heavy arrows shooting at under 200 fps out of heavy traditional bows, they can be as accurate as unbladed points.

Nice work nagant. :thumbs_up


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## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

Stash said:


> A comment regarding the "precision" of these home-made broadheads - keep in mind, they are not designed for high speed arrows.
> 
> Yes, if you're shooting light arrows travelling over 300 FPS, you do need something that's precisely straight and these will probably not group very consistently. But for heavy arrows shooting at under 200 fps out of heavy traditional bows, they can be as accurate as unbladed points.
> 
> Nice work nagant. :thumbs_up


Yes, indeed, you are right. They also work great with 2419 aluminums with 3/4 inch high feathers from my "old" 90lb browning compound.


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## NMC (May 21, 2006)

90 lbs at 33 inches Wow! There must not be a lot of people kicking sand in your face! All kidding aside I like what you have accomplished and hope to give this a try sometime. Good project and a guy can practice and tune and tweak at home until you feel totally confident to try them on game. Thanks for sharing.


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## ndemiter (Jun 12, 2007)

"Am I the only one that thinks the worst, cheapo, store bought broadhead in the world would be more consistant and accurrate than one made with JB weld and a hacksaw? I like the fact that these broadheads were made at home, but really, does anyone think that mild steel, a hacksaw, and JB weld are a safe bet for taking game? I like DIY stuff but this should make broadhead tuner fall out on the floor. Maybe I should stick to the "If you can't say something nice" rule but I hope the avagerage deer hunter doesn't decide to take to the woods with a quiver full of hacksaw braodheads. Sorry, I don't intend to offend but I saw this post and thought it was a joke."

i certainly hope nothing we devise to take game is safe for it. the more dangerous, the better, that's my motto. it's a simple concept. you put something sharp on a stick, then propel said stick into animal. rocks and sticks worked for centuries. plus, JB weld is "BETTER THAN WELDING" have you ever read the package?


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## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

NMC said:


> 90 lbs at 33 inches Wow! There must not be a lot of people kicking sand in your face! All kidding aside I like what you have accomplished and hope to give this a try sometime. Good project and a guy can practice and tune and tweak at home until you feel totally confident to try them on game. Thanks for sharing.


Actually, I'm middle aged, not ripped by any stretch of the imagination and I wouldn't be real comfortable on the beach. A 90lb compound is not out of reach for most men. It is more a matter of muscle memory than that of brute strength. It is more a matter of psychology than size. That said, the bowfit safari will help you if you want to draw a heavy bow. I practice with special field points that I make that match the weight of the broadheads. The broadheads are very hard on targets.


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## teed (Apr 16, 2010)

*DIY stuff*

nagant, interesting approach.

I am shooting a compound slightly over 80lb and that is often more than 25lb more thanthe field archer next to me on the range. I have no trouble finding 'store bought' broadheads around the 200 gr mark, but if I ever wish to go heavier I may be calling for your help.

Btw, what do you do for field points? The heaviest screw-ins I have ever found were at Basspro -- and only 145 gr.


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## nmubowyer (Feb 7, 2008)

awesome man, this is gonna be one of my next projects


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## nagant (Feb 17, 2009)

teed said:


> nagant, interesting approach.
> 
> I am shooting a compound slightly over 80lb and that is often more than 25lb more thanthe field archer next to me on the range. I have no trouble finding 'store bought' broadheads around the 200 gr mark, but if I ever wish to go heavier I may be calling for your help.
> 
> Btw, what do you do for field points? The heaviest screw-ins I have ever found were at Basspro -- and only 145 gr.


3 rivers archery sells 250-300 grain feild points. 400+ field points can be made by bonding a PDP 5degree wood conversion tip to a 100 or 125 grain 5 degree screw on to glue on conversion tip. Once done any number of costom field point setups can be made. I'll try to get a post with pictures of these field point on soon.


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## maxxis88 (Apr 3, 2010)

Cool heads. If its sharp and the arrow flies good, I would shoot it.


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## Joe'Bronco (Mar 12, 2010)

I don't see why they wouldn't work? If Indians used sticks with a sharpened rock on the end tied in with string, i think a chunk of steel and JB wield would work just fine :wink:


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## Flyboy718 (May 20, 2008)

Joe'Bronco said:


> I don't see why they wouldn't work? If Indians used sticks with a sharpened rock on the end tied in with string, i think a chunk of steel and JB wield would work just fine :wink:


If the indians had jb weld and a chunk of steel, there probably wouldn't be any animals left


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## NJlefty (Jul 4, 2003)

*You are the man!!!*

I think it's awesome to be able to make your own archery equipment and take animals with them...

I'm not very mechanically inclined...but I am seriously going to look into trying this out....

I would get a HUGE thrill out of taking a deer or turkey with something I made....

U da Man!!!!


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## handirifle (Jun 9, 2005)

ndemiter said:


> "Am I the only one that thinks the worst, cheapo, store bought broadhead in the world would be more consistant and accurrate than one made with JB weld and a hacksaw? I like the fact that these broadheads were made at home, but really, does anyone think that mild steel, a hacksaw, and JB weld are a safe bet for taking game? I like DIY stuff but this should make broadhead tuner fall out on the floor. Maybe I should stick to the "If you can't say something nice" rule but I hope the avagerage deer hunter doesn't decide to take to the woods with a quiver full of hacksaw broadheads. Sorry, I don't intend to offend but I saw this post and thought it was a joke."
> 
> i certainly hope nothing we devise to take game is safe for it. the more dangerous, the better, that's my motto. it's a simple concept. you put something sharp on a stick, then propel said stick into animal. rocks and sticks worked for centuries. plus, *JB weld is "BETTER THAN WELDING" have you ever read the package*?



Here's where I take exception. I have made some heads of my own, did it just recently so I haven't hunted with them, but I have used JB on other projects and I can tell you without doubt, JB does not compare to weld strength. It becomes too brittle. My blades are welded to the ferrule, they are both steel. I am currently working on making lighter heads, something in the 150gr weight range. I will get there, just will take some experimentation.

I commend the OP on his effort, and wish him well on game with them. As long as we don't use very soft steels that might bend on contact with a rib, I think we're good.








This was my first attempt. I have made a couple more and they are getting more streamlined. The ferrule on this one is too long, and I have trimmed them down. This head weighed 300gr, and newer ones are lower. 

I also made my own steel inserts and practice field points for EFOC arrow tuning. I have field points in 25gr increments from 125 to 300gr.











The inserts were made from nails, like to one in the photo. cost was .10c each. The head next to the insert is a factory 125gr point. 









Ok I found the photo of it welded, but the welds looked like crap and so do the grind marks, but I am getting better at it.
This picture of this head was taken after being shot into a hill in my back yard. This hill is 50% decomposed granite, in other words almost all rock. It didn't even wobble afterwards.











Didn't mean to stel the post, but wanted to point out that DIY is an evolving effort, no matter where we start. and by the way I agree 100% with the fact that at $10+ per head is getting ridiculous.

I just noticed how old this thread was, sorry. Was doing a google search and this thread came up.


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## oubackman (Feb 14, 2006)

I really like this idea. I might have to try this myself. Good work!


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## maxis31 (Dec 15, 2011)

I made several heads this summer, sent them to My brother in Alaska, So far a Caribou and a Moose have fallen to My heads.


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## handirifle (Jun 9, 2005)

maxis31 said:


> I made several heads this summer, sent them to My brother in Alaska, So far a Caribou and a Moose have fallen to My heads.



Any pictures? Details?


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## maxis31 (Dec 15, 2011)

If I can figure out how to post a pic,


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## slowen (Jun 27, 2006)

I would put in an order for a dozen but i can only imagine the time/cost would make these BHs outrageous. Nice job!


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## wingbone (Nov 13, 2007)

I don't really see how it's worth the trouble. Somebody shooting a 90# compounde bow and they want to make homemade broadeads. Hell, I'd feel reasonably confident shooting a field point at a deer and going for a double lung shot. I can see maybe doing it one time just to say "Hey, I killed a deer with a point I made myself" but after that, why keep doing it? Do you drive to your hunting land? You might spend more on gas in a trip to the hunting grounds than you will all season on broadheads. How about a bow string made from stuff laying around the house. That might be interesting.


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## catfishmafia76 (Aug 23, 2009)

I had not seen this post before. While I don't think I will be making my own broadheads any time soon, it was a very interesting read. Congrats to all you DIY'ers making your own heads. Gotta be a great feeling to take an animal with one.


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## handirifle (Jun 9, 2005)

Why do folks build things they can buy? Because they can. If that doesn't make sense it never will.


I am building mine with the thought of never having to buy another. If I could make carbon or aluminum arrows, I probably would. I can and do make wooden arrows, but a glue on head is harder for me to make.

By the way the reference above to the indians sharpening stones to hunt with,.....its a proven FACT tha an obsidian edge is MUCH sharper, than the best scalpel. Look it up, that is fact. The obsidian head is not at durable as all steel, but it is sharper.


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## z7MagnumFreak (Aug 6, 2012)

great thread!


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