# .500 spine Victory Nano Force



## psargeant (Aug 1, 2004)

I tried adding this question on to a thread in GenPop, but I'm not getting anywhere...

I'm having a problem with my Victory nano Force arrows...almost every time I hit the back end hard enough to crack the nock, I'm splitting the shaft as well...I've got 6 broken nocks, and 5 cracked shafts in less than a week:mad2:.

I've heard from several shooting the .400 and .350's that aren't having this issue, but haven't heard from anyone shooting the lighter spines one way or the other, so I am going to ask here...Am I the only one:noidea:???

Would you also tell me how you are installing the bushings? Just trying to see if it makes a difference...


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## Spoon13 (Feb 20, 2007)

I would bet it's just you, but I'll wait and see.:wink::chortle:


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## psargeant (Aug 1, 2004)

Spoon13 said:


> I would bet it's just you, but I'll wait and see.:wink::chortle:


That was helpful smart arse...

I need to call you about something...thanks for reminding me...


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## TANC (Mar 14, 2005)

Pat,

Call Mike Lundeen at wehavearrows.com............or PM him (VeroShooter). He may have some useful info for you. If you didn't know, he is the Victory staff supplier, and his wife shoots these competitively on the ASA 3D circuit. He told me he would use regular nocks and not pin nocks. Don't know why, and I didn't listen anyway. :wink:

I haven't broke any nocks or bushings on mine. Don't shoot good enough I guess.  But mine are 350's anyway.


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## Spoon13 (Feb 20, 2007)

psargeant said:


> That was helpful smart arse...
> 
> I need to call you about something...thanks for reminding me...


See, it was helpful anyway.:nyah:


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## X Hunter (Jan 11, 2007)

Pat I believe the heat was the issue for the fragile back ends Heat and carbon dont mix


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## X Hunter (Jan 11, 2007)

Pat I believe the heat was the issue for the fragile back ends Heat and carbon dont mix

I think if you cut em down like you were talking about they will be fine


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## USNarcher (Oct 12, 2002)

I'm shootin the 400's and 350's. I'm down 8 arrows in 2 weeks. But I am crushing the arrows. With the Victory nocks I robinhooded 3 arrows last week, I mean pushing nock half way down the shaft, they just guided them in. With G nocks I'm just cracking them (shaft). Pins are your best bet but I was having issues with them.

My biggest complaint is I can't get any arrows right now and National are next week. I have 11 good arrows.


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## golfingguy27 (Oct 15, 2008)

I shoot the 500's and have mangled several pin nocks and pin nock adapters and never cracked a shaft.. must just be you! lol


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## BOWGOD (Aug 11, 2004)

I'm shooting the .600's and have never cracked one. I've hit the pin bushings so bad that the pin could have been used as a nock afterwards, and the shaft was still fine.

How are you installing yours? Something definitely doesn't seem right if your busting them up like that.


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## tabarch (Sep 20, 2006)

Pat I am shooting the setup you are [ nano 500 28" 100grn point ] and have hammered the %&* out of the pin nocks and have not ruined a single shaft although I have had to replace several pins and a small truck load of nocks.
Terry


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## Unclegus (May 27, 2003)

I've been shooting the 600 V-3's since back in May. No cracked shafts. I have one dozen with 100 grain points that have pins in them. 
The pins aren't tough at all. I've wrecked some pins. I have another dozen 600 are cut 26" long and have 80 grain points in them and G nocks in the ends of the shafts. Pushing 240 [email protected] 282 in a B madness for an ASA set up. No problems. I DID cut a half inch off the nock end of all of the Nanoforce I have to start with and the rest from the front end. Also have a dozen 500's and they have done well too at close to 300 feet.... Shot a 900 round on a soccer field in blistering heat yesterday with no problems....


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## Bowtechie (Jan 20, 2003)

I dulled the points on my 500 Nano's and they don't do as much damage. They are wicked sharp out of the package. I use the Bohning F nocks and when they break it seems like there is more of the nock left to grab ahold of with pliars to pull out versus a G nock breaking off flush. I wouldn't use pin nocks. These shafts are pretty darn tuff. I think I've only cracked one and that was with one of the sharp pointed ones before rounding them off. I destroyed someones Xringer with pin nocks the other day. It hit the pin and dented it then it hit the face of the pin nock and put a deep gouge in it and cracked the shaft. After all that it ended up right next to the Xringer shaft instead of bouncing way out. I was pretty impressed.


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## psargeant (Aug 1, 2004)

X Hunter said:


> Pat I believe the heat was the issue for the fragile back ends Heat and carbon dont mix
> 
> I think if you cut em down like you were talking about they will be fine


I also think you're right, but I' still curious...

I've already cut down all but a couple, working on re-fletching now...


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## CarlV (Mar 12, 2008)

I'm also using the VNF500's. I use pin nocks which I glue in with epoxy. GT, McKinney, or Bohning nocks.

I've ruined tons of nocks, and quite a few pins by either gouging the heck out of the pins or bending them (I have a jig from Sterling Machine Shop in Green Bay, WI that tests the runnout of pins on pin nocks or the nock runnout of a shaft with the nock installed.) After you hit and break a nock you would be surprised to find that >80% of the time you have bent the pin .005" or greater also.

Pulling the pins is easy with just a light amount of heat from a propane tourch on the pin then grab it with a pliars and pull it out.

I haven't split a shaft at the nock end yet, but I sure like the idea of dulling the points. Why didn't I think of that?

I hope this helps.


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## psargeant (Aug 1, 2004)

CarlV said:


> I'm also using the VNF500's. I use pin nocks which I glue in with epoxy. GT, McKinney, or Bohning nocks.
> 
> I've ruined tons of nocks, and quite a few pins by either gouging the heck out of the pins or bending them (I have a jig from Sterling Machine Shop in Green Bay, WI that tests the runnout of pins on pin nocks or the nock runnout of a shaft with the nock installed.) After you hit and break a nock you would be surprised to find that >80% of the time you have bent the pin .005" or greater also.
> 
> ...


I actually think that is the problem. Whoever had them before me epoxied in the pins. I had to apply a bit of heat to get them out, now they are all cracking. Why would you install something temporary with a permanent glue:doh:??? I always replace the pin after a broken nock, even if it doesn't look damaged.

I've cut the last probably 1/2" off the back of the shaft on all of these to save them and also to eliminate heating as a potential cause of the cracks. I'll see how it goes over the next couple of weeks... It does seem like I am the only one having this problem so I have to assume it is either the removal of the old pins, or I got a bad batch of shafts...I've never had this problem with any arrow before though...


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## Spoon13 (Feb 20, 2007)

psargeant said:


> I actually think that is the problem. Whoever had them before me epoxied in the pins. I had to apply a bit of heat to get them out, now they are all cracking. Why would you install something temporary with a permanent glue:doh:??? I always replace the pin after a broken nock, even if it doesn't look damaged.
> 
> I've cut the last probably 1/2" off the back of the shaft on all of these to save them and also to eliminate heating as a potential cause of the cracks. I'll see how it goes over the next couple of weeks...* It does seem like I am the only one having this problem* so I have to assume it is either the removal of the old pins, or I got a bad batch of shafts...I've never had this problem with any arrow before though...


Told ya!!!


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## JayMc (Jan 4, 2005)

Try inserting the nock pins with plastic bags instead of glue. It will give you a tighter fit without requiring any heat.

I never have this problem with A/C type arrows


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## TANC (Mar 14, 2005)

JayMc said:


> Try inserting the nock pins with plastic bags instead of glue. It will give you a tighter fit without requiring any heat.
> 
> I never have this problem with A/C type arrows


Exactly. I NEVER glue pin nock adaptors. Just a little ClingWrap around them and they fit nice and tight, yet can still be removed anytime you need to.


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## psargeant (Aug 1, 2004)

JayMc said:


> Try inserting the nock pins with plastic bags instead of glue. It will give you a tighter fit without requiring any heat.
> 
> I never have this problem with A/C type arrows


I use dental floss or plastic bags myself...

I was just doing what I had to (I bought them used) to get them out initially...


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## psargeant (Aug 1, 2004)

Spoon13 said:


> Told ya!!!


:bartstush: go suck an egg...:tongue:


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## psargeant (Aug 1, 2004)

Bowtechie said:


> *I dulled the points on my 500 Nano's and they don't do as much damage*. They are wicked sharp out of the package. I use the Bohning F nocks and when they break it seems like there is more of the nock left to grab ahold of with pliars to pull out versus a G nock breaking off flush. I wouldn't use pin nocks. These shafts are pretty darn tuff. I think I've only cracked one and that was with one of the sharp pointed ones before rounding them off. I destroyed someones Xringer with pin nocks the other day. It hit the pin and dented it then it hit the face of the pin nock and put a deep gouge in it and cracked the shaft. After all that it ended up right next to the Xringer shaft instead of bouncing way out. I was pretty impressed.


:nod: Never seen any arrow point that "pointy"...I don't believe it to be a good thing either...


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## TANC (Mar 14, 2005)

psargeant said:


> :nod: Never seen any arrow point that "pointy"...I don't believe it to be a good thing either...


Makes em pull good at Yadkin. :wink:


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## golfingguy27 (Oct 15, 2008)

One comment on the plastic bag trick for the pins. That is what I have been doing with mine, BUT.. I just got a new dozen shafts the week of the Hillbilly shoot. BG actually brought them to me at the shoot and I built a few of them Saturday morning before the shoot started. Victory changed the logo on them again and they are now call "Victory Armor Piercing" arrows. It seems to me though, that the logo isn't the only thing they have changed. The pins now fit slightly different in the shafts. They are actually tighter now, which you would think is good, but I am having a problem with it. Being tighter, they won't allow enough of the plastic bag to get pulled down between the pin and the shaft, and the plastic does very little to help hold them in. I have been debating trying hot glue on them, but don't really want to since this makes fixing them on the course next to impossible. I may try some dental floss as sarge talked about and see how that works.. anybody else have the new shafts and noticed the same thing??


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## RedWonder (Jan 10, 2003)

golfingguy27 said:


> One comment on the plastic bag trick for the pins. That is what I have been doing with mine, BUT.. I just got a new dozen shafts the week of the Hillbilly shoot. BG actually brought them to me at the shoot and I built a few of them Saturday morning before the shoot started. Victory changed the logo on them again and they are now call "Victory Armor Piercing" arrows. It seems to me though, that the logo isn't the only thing they have changed. The pins now fit slightly different in the shafts. They are actually tighter now, which you would think is good, but I am having a problem with it. Being tighter, they won't allow enough of the plastic bag to get pulled down between the pin and the shaft, and the plastic does very little to help hold them in. I have been debating trying hot glue on them, but don't really want to since this makes fixing them on the course next to impossible. I may try some dental floss as sarge talked about and see how that works.. anybody else have the new shafts and noticed the same thing??


Have you tried cellophane, the plastic stuff for on top of dishes?


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## Ron Meadows (Aug 17, 2005)

Pat,

I've been shooting those shafts, er....was and will be again after my elbow surgery , since they came out and I've always used the plastic bag treatment on the pin nocks for mine. They have taken a beating and I've only lost 2 shafts due to cracks in the back and on both of those the pins were completely destroyed to the point that no shaft would have survived.


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## golfingguy27 (Oct 15, 2008)

RedWonder said:


> Have you tried cellophane, the plastic stuff for on top of dishes?


No.. haven't tried that yet.. I have to do some experimenting. I only have 4 arrows built with the new shafts. I just got the second dozen to supplement the original dozen I bought for this year. They definately fit slightly different. I should measure the ID's of the new batch versus original batch.


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## tabarch (Sep 20, 2006)

I tried the plastic bag on my last set of nanos and I split the back end of one the shafts, I then went to celophane and that worked I think they tightened the tolerance of the pins and the shaft ID. 



golfingguy27 said:


> One comment on the plastic bag trick for the pins. That is what I have been doing with mine, BUT.. I just got a new dozen shafts the week of the Hillbilly shoot. BG actually brought them to me at the shoot and I built a few of them Saturday morning before the shoot started. Victory changed the logo on them again and they are now call "Victory Armor Piercing" arrows. It seems to me though, that the logo isn't the only thing they have changed. The pins now fit slightly different in the shafts. They are actually tighter now, which you would think is good, but I am having a problem with it. Being tighter, they won't allow enough of the plastic bag to get pulled down between the pin and the shaft, and the plastic does very little to help hold them in. I have been debating trying hot glue on them, but don't really want to since this makes fixing them on the course next to impossible. I may try some dental floss as sarge talked about and see how that works.. anybody else have the new shafts and noticed the same thing??


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## TANC (Mar 14, 2005)

Everyone I know is using ClingWrap/Cellophane on all arows and pin nock adaptors. Just double it over, or don't, until you get the fit tightness you want. Rip off the excess after it's pushed in the shaft. One little piece doubled over once does the trick for me on most all arrows. :wink:


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## golfingguy27 (Oct 15, 2008)

sounds like I need to stop at the 24 hour Walmart on the way home and grab some cling wrap. On my old batch of nanoforces I was cutting squares out of the bags Lancaster ships parts in. They are quite thick and fit well with the older nanos, not so much on this batch.


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## GradyWhite (Oct 18, 2008)

*Victory Nano 500's*

I've cracked 2 & my pins are installed with sandwich bag plastic. My old Ultralights took one heck of a beating without cracking but dummy glued the pin bushings in with super glue that won't come loose & the shafts are too short to cut. It's back to Gold Tip for me. Live & learn.


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## kjwhfsd (Sep 10, 2005)

I shoot 400's one took 2 hits this weekend thanks Usnarcher :wink: The bushing I kept it has 4 points on it never seen one like that.The shaft is fine put in new bushing and shoots just like it did. I actually had 4 take hits no problem with the shafts.


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## psargeant (Aug 1, 2004)

Just a quick update...

I'm now up to 7 hits, 5 cracked shafts (the last 2 hits survived:clap...

I've cut the cracked part off all the shafts and the same amoput off the ones that are still good, which should have eliminated any area that could have been damaged due to the heat it took to remove the pins originally...

Haven't had much chance to shoot the since making the change we'll see how it goes...


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