# anyone have an DIY for a dremel as an arrow saw?



## glynT (Nov 23, 2006)

i thought i seen a long time ago but i can't find in the search for a DIY dremel arrow saw. anyone have an idea or pics?

thanks,
glyn


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## dorkbuck33 (Sep 12, 2011)

I couldn't find it at first , but , hit key words "dremel saw" the search box .


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

I used a $17 mini grinder (fake Dremel) and it works well.


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## Fauxfly (Apr 19, 2011)

Dremmel works great...I cut all my arrows with one this season. I used the highest speed it would go. I just clamped the dremmel to the bench and rolled my arrows into the blade. I used the little abrasive blades - theyr'e about the size of a quarter but half as thick. Really worked nice and left a clean edge on the shaft. My dremmel was actaully a cheap chinese one from Harbor Freight for about 10 bucks! Came with lots of replacement blades to. Can't beat it!!


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## randallss7 (Nov 9, 2007)

I do not have a diy, but I use a drimmel lay it in a piece of angle iron clamp in in place with a wood clamp have a little stop on the ohter end with a set screw, easy as that.


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## shmingey22 (Mar 12, 2011)

Here is one I made with a cheaper version of the dremel. It works great.

Here is my parts list.

A couple pieces of MDF (close to 4' long)
Rotary tool kit $30
1 - 3" PVC cuppling $1.50
4 - 3/4" pipe straps $3 (pack of 20)
approx 2' of ABS pipe strapping $4 (10' long)
1 - 1/2" pex pipe cap $1
glue & nails. $5
Scrap piece of aluminum cladding.
1 small clamp $4

All prices are approx. and off the top of my head. I didn't feel like going to get my receipt.

I cut up my MDF so that I had a 40" long x 3"x3" frame to use for my saw. I than built up the one end with 2 extra pieces of MDF to mount my saw to so that my saw was approx 1.5" high in the center of the blade. I than used the rotary tool to cut a notch in my 3" PVC cuppling for where I was going to be feeding the arrow into. Once I cut my notch into there I than bent up a piece of aluminum to use as a guide for the arrow when running it into the saw. I test fit the guide and cut out a notch in it for the blade to go through and screwed the guide to the cuppling. I than screwed the cuppling to the wall of my frame and tight to my pieces of wood that I built up to mount my saw to. I used the extension hand piece from the tool kit as it was easier to mount steadily on the saw where I wanted it. I took 3 of the 3/4" pipe straps and mounted the hand piece onto the pieces of wood and somewhat centered it in my PVC cuppling. I used 2 on the handle and one on the cord going into the handle as that helped reduce any blade movement that I was having. I made sure that I mounted the hand piece square to the wall on my frame and as level as I could get it. I than mounted the main body of the rotary tool on the back of the frame with the pipe strapping and used my last 3/4" pipe strap to hold the cord from moving too much. Next I built a 3"x3" stop that I could use to hold the nock of the arrow while cutting. I measured to see where the center of my saw was going to be and than drilled a 1/2" hole in my block to match. I slid in and glued my 1/2" pex pipe clamp into that hole as it seemed to work really well to allow the arrow to spin in while cutting and also gave me a solid back wall to butt the arrow against. Since I ended up screwing my pipe strap to the bottom of my frame since it was easiest to make it tight that way, I built some small legs for the saw frame so that it will sit nice and flat. Now to use the saw all I have to do is slide my block to where I need it, turn on the saw and use it the same as you would any other saw. I made 4 cuts with it and they all seemed to work really well and looked nice and square. I am still going to be using my arrow squaring jig on the arrows afterwards just to be sure though.

In the end the saw works really well but there was one issue that I did have. If I was going to be cutting off more than a couple inches off of the arrow than I would have to do it in a couple different cuts as the blades diameter isn't big enough to prevent the hand piece from getting in the way. To me this is a non issue as it really doesn't take much time to do this and this saw seems to work really well. If you have any questions please ask, or if you have any ways to improve the saw please post away as it will only help others.


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## Deer Eliminator (Jan 21, 2010)

I used a piece of bed rail and a $8 sewing machine motor and presser foot. On the end I made an arrow squaring tool as well.


































Hutch


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## AndyVandy (May 9, 2009)

I have one. I will try to get picture up in the next day or two. 


Most ministers would make great martyrs. They are so dry they would burn well. C.H. Spurgeon (I try to remember this 'cause I'm a pastor)


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## fiftyincher (Sep 2, 2010)

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1445432


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## AndyVandy (May 9, 2009)

Here is mine. Nothing fancy but it does the job very well.


Most ministers would make great martyrs. They are so dry they would burn well. C.H. Spurgeon (I try to remember this 'cause I'm a pastor)


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## glynT (Nov 23, 2006)

great pics guys! i went to my brothers shop yesterday and messed with some different idea's. it's pretty close to what you did shmingey22


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## shmingey22 (Mar 12, 2011)

The only issue that I have found with mine is that you can't always cut the arrow to the exact length you want the first time as the arrow runs past the blade a little bit too far and hits the dremel body. You can either cut about 2" off of the end of the arrow first than cut it to the right length or just barely bend the arrow in and it hits the blade without issues. I just made up a couple arrows the other day and it worked great. I use a arrow square after cutting all arrows but these were all cut close to perfectly and needed almost no touching up. For the ease of the build and the low cost it works great. You will have to let me know how you make out.


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## Irish Sitka (Jul 2, 2009)

Here is the Arrow Saw I put together with a Dremmel Tool.
The Dremmel tool is hinged to cut down across the Arrow.


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## elkbow69 (May 7, 2010)

Irish Sitka! I have all the stuff to make that one. GREAT IDERRRR! Bingo my sunday afternoon dad and kid project!


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## caspian (Jan 13, 2009)

http://technorantia.blogspot.com.au/2010/05/arrow-saw-wot-merv-and-i-made.html


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## deerhunter7273 (Mar 22, 2010)

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1265893

here is the link to one a made about a year ago.


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## polardaddy (Apr 9, 2007)

tagged for later


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## coonhound (Jan 27, 2007)

*I built this one a few weeks ago...*

Depending on the accessibility of metal working tools...I bought all of the material and hardware off ebay and machined the parts after work. Maybe it will give you some ideas. The 80/20 T slot extrusion makes it very easy to build an adjustable arrow stop.

****


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

here is one I plan to copy.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1186320


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## aquanut (Jan 24, 2013)

Dremel is too expensive for such a project. I use 5000rpm grinder $24 and it works great. I have cut all my arrows without any problems. Some guys use 8000rpm grinders it supposed to be better. Mine is 5000rpm and I never had any problems cutting carbon arrows.


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## slowen (Jun 27, 2006)

Cool ideas!


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## buckman2591 (Feb 6, 2011)

Using a 7800 rpm saw here


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

This one is better than anything commercially available. All it needs is a way to attach a vacuum for dust collection.

Great job coonhound!!



coonhound said:


> Depending on the accessibility of metal working tools...I bought all of the material and hardware off ebay and machined the parts after work. Maybe it will give you some ideas. The 80/20 T slot extrusion makes it very easy to build an adjustable arrow stop.
> 
> ****


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## Fifa (Jun 2, 2011)

coonhound said:


> Depending on the accessibility of metal working tools...I bought all of the material and hardware off ebay and machined the parts after work. Maybe it will give you some ideas. The 80/20 T slot extrusion makes it very easy to build an adjustable arrow stop.
> 
> ****


WOW beter than any proffesional tool. Time to produce it for other


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## coonhound (Jan 27, 2007)

Fifa said:


> WOW beter than any proffesional tool. Time to produce it for other


I'm a little selfish, I kinda like having a one of a kind tool on my bench....sorry


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Coonhound, 

Can you tell us what materials you used?


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## coonhound (Jan 27, 2007)

Sure, see below:

*Base* - 3" x 4" x 1/4" extruded aluminum angle 38" long (E-bay $20)
*Bearings* - 5/8" OD x 1/4" ID (roller blade bearings, E-bay $2 for 5 pieces)
*U-Bolts* - 2" Exhaust clamps, they come with 2 U-bolts and radius bases, I slid 5/16 silicon tubing over the U-bolts (E-bay, $7.00)
*Stop Rail* - 80/20 T-slot extrusion, 1.5" wide x .75" tall (E-bay, $6 for 18" piece)
*Rubber feet* - 1" rubber feet 3/16" ID, 1/2" tall, I added another 1/8" spacer to clear the u-bolts (E-bay, $2)
*Arrow Stop* - Scrap piece of 1 1/4" x 2" extruded aluminum bar, I turned and the stop out of a piece of stainless rod and pressed one of the roller blade bearings into it.
*Debur tool* - Wells brand 3/8" counter sink, they cost about $15 dollars from MSC, I had one laying around.
*Tool holder* - That started from a piece of 1 3/4" Dia rod that I machined square, I used what ever I could find.

Those of us that have access to a machine shop have a bit of an advantage but if you do the world is at your disposal.

****


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

coonhound said:


> Sure, see below:
> 
> *Base* - 3" x 4" x 1/4" extruded aluminum angle 38" long (E-bay $20)
> *Bearings* - 5/8" OD x 1/4" ID (roller blade bearings, E-bay $2 for 5 pieces)
> ...


Thank you!!!


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## coonhound (Jan 27, 2007)

aread said:


> Thank you!!!


I forgot to add the self adhesive scale. It came from Reid Tool and cost about $6, make sure you get one that reads from the correct direction, they sell them L to R and R to L.

****


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## rembrandt (Jan 17, 2004)

Irish Sitka said:


> Here is the Arrow Saw I put together with a Dremmel Tool.
> The Dremmel tool is hinged to cut down across the Arrow.


I like this idea but how do you say......cut off 2 or 3 inches or more at one cutting? Does the board that supports the arrow move back giving you more room?


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## rembrandt (Jan 17, 2004)

ttt.....I'm waiting on an answer here on this cause I want to make one like it.....


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## caspian (Jan 13, 2009)

coonhound said:


> Depending on the accessibility of metal working tools...I bought all of the material and hardware off ebay and machined the parts after work.


very nice indeed.


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## caspian (Jan 13, 2009)

rembrandt said:


> I like this idea but how do you say......cut off 2 or 3 inches or more at one cutting? Does the board that supports the arrow move back giving you more room?


that's an issue with dremel style saws - clearance with the motor housing past the blade. my solution is to just chop the shafts off roughly about 1" over desired cut length, then finish cut in the saw.


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## rembrandt (Jan 17, 2004)

caspian said:


> that's an issue with dremel style saws - clearance with the motor housing past the blade. my solution is to just chop the shafts off roughly about 1" over desired cut length, then finish cut in the saw.


That would work, thanks! I'm gonna make one like that and I like the idea of the dremel tool and it being hinged.....I am still wondering how the arrow stays in line? Is it lying in a groove?


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## mainersmotive (Sep 14, 2013)

Ttt


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## caspian (Jan 13, 2009)

rembrandt said:


> That would work, thanks! I'm gonna make one like that and I like the idea of the dremel tool and it being hinged.....I am still wondering how the arrow stays in line? Is it lying in a groove?


world's latest reply!

I haven't got a groove for the arrow to sit in because the position would need to vary with wear on the blade and shaft diameter. in practice it's very easy to just feed the shaft into the blade then rotate it with fingers - it really doesn't matter if the shaft moves in or out a fraction of an inch during the cutting process.

a possible refinement would be to add a sliding depth stop to the baseplate at the blade end of the saw. a small metal bracket and a couple of bolts with wing nuts would do. then you could just run the shaft in to the stop and rotate it.


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## OhWell (Aug 21, 2013)

If you go to mcmaster carr you can get bigger OD cut off wheels. They are still safe for high speeds and in an application like this they would be reasonably safe. I believe they have them all the way to 2.5".

I have two old sewing machine motors in my cabinet in the shop and a very nice piece of 1010 rail. One of these days I will build a decent saw..

Too many projects and too little time.....


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