# Kids' bows on the cheap--Part I



## bows'n'roses (Jun 5, 2007)

*KIDS' BOWS ON THE CHEAP--PART II*


USING OLD TRADITIONAL STRINGS– If you have some old traditional bow strings that are long enough you can use them. Using these may require drilling the end holes slightly larger. Begin by squeezing the top loop together so it fits through the hole in the top limb. Push it through the hole and loop it back over the end of the limb. Now push the bottom end through the hole in the bottom limb, bend the bow and tie a knot in the doubled bottom string. Where you tie the knot will determine brace height, so make sure it is where you want it before you really cinch it down. I have had no problems with the knot trying to pull through the limb but if you are concerned about this then slip a flat washer over the bottom string before you tie the knot. For bow arm clearance for kids I like a brace height approaching 8”. 

You now have a strung bow which will re-string to a consistent brace height. The string may require re-serving the center serving to keep the serving close to the middle of the bow depending on the length of string you started with. The string will also require tied on nocking points as discussed later. 

To unstring the bow, bend it and slip the top string loop off the limb end and back through the hole. Secure it with a rubber band and you are ready for next time. If you re-serve the center serving be conscious of nock fit. Too loose minimizes fun and may be dangerous. Too tight kills accuracy. 

USING 1/8” NYLON CORD STRING MATERIAL : If you have no old traditional strings, no problem. I used Secure Line, Diamond Braided, Nylon from Wal-Mart. It costs $2.54 for a 48’x1/8” package. This will string 7 bows and it is rated to 40 pounds. Don’t try to get more than 7 equal length strings out of this 48’ package. You are going to be glad you have that extra length. This gives us a per bow cost for strings of about $.36.

Standard nock throat size is .098 or about 1/10”. So you may be thinking that 1/8 inch cord is going to be too thick for the nocks. And that would be a concern if it weren’t for the stretch of the nylon. After being stretched the nock/string fit is good with standard nocks. It is a little tighter but still good with the NASP AAE 9/32” nocks. 

Melt the ends of the nylon to keep them from fraying. Put one end of the string through the bottom hole in the bow, then double the string 2 “ or so and tie a knot in the doubled string. Melt the frizzy part. If you are concerned about this coming loose then put a couple of tape wraps around the string end and the lower limb together. NOTE : Do not melt the top end before putting it through the top hole or you will have difficulty getting it through the hole especially if you melted a bulb onto it.

Do you remember the step through method of stringing a bow that you have been taught never to use on a good bow for fear of twisting a limb? That method is perfect for these bows. The bow will be vertical and on your left side with the string pointed to your front. Tilt the bow away from you at the top and to your left. With your left foot step between the bow and the string. Slide the bow across the top of your right foot to the floor. While keeping the lower end over your right foot, slide the center area of the bow into the crease between your left thigh and buttock. Push your hip back against the bow while at the same time pushing the top bow end toward your front with your left hand. This creates the bend in the bow which allows you to attach the string in a variety of ways with your right hand. Bend the bow beyond where you think it should be The string will stretch and lower the brace height some. 

While you have the bow bent take 3 wraps around the top end of the bow and the string together where the string goes through the hole. Because you are still lightly pushing on the top end with your left hand your left fingers are perfectly positioned to hold those 3 wraps against the bow while you do the next step. 

Now put the string end over the bow string at the bottom of the 3 wraps. Now put the end back under the string and back toward you still just below the 3 wraps. You have now created a small loop with the string end you are working with. Take the string end and put it up through that loop from the bottom and pull it snug. 

Now take another wrap going the opposite direction and when you get around to the string again do the same finishing technique, over, under and through from the bottom. Pull it snug again. If you have enough string make another wrap and finish off the same way. At whatever point you start to run out of string having made your last wrap, finish as above then double tie the string end. Ideally you will have three full coils around both bow and string and then three of these over, under, through from the bottom wraps and then your final double tie.

Why bother? Because most knots will not hold the nylon for a fairly consistent brace height. Those knots that will hold take two men and a pair of pliers to untie after the bow has been shot a while.

Now mark the limb and the string with a magic marker where the string goes into the bottom of the knots. Now you have a reference for future stringing. When you bend the bow to where the mark on the limb and the mark on the string line up you are pretty close to re-creating your previous brace height. 

NOTE : With this setup you can unstring the bow without bracing it. Yes, you heard right. Undo the top double tie. It has no tension against it. Isn’t that nice? Now untie the first over, under, through from the bottom knot and nothing happens. The string end still has no tension against it. Undo the second knot and likely nothing much happens. As you slowly undo the third knot the three full wraps will begin to pull slack from the string end like a triple pulley and the bow will now release it’s tension and straighten out with the three wraps and the last knot still loose on the bow. Neat huh? For storage pull a little additional slack in the string to minimize bow set. 

MARKING NOCKING POINT LOCATION - While the bow is still strung mark the nocking point position on the string. Use either a bow square or a framing square and measure straight across from the string to where the arrow will sit on the arrow rest. Now put a mark on the string about 1/8” or so higher than straight across. That is your bottom nocking point location. Come up from that mark 3/8” and put another mark on the string. That is your top nocking point location. Since your nylon bow string is white both you and the kids will appreciate black thread nocking points. If you have to buy thread then buy black nylon thread. 

TIEING ON NOCKING POINTS - These nocking points are simply a knot of thread knots called a ten knot. Take about a foot of thread and lay the middle across the bow string at the place you want the knot. Now put the thread around the string where you want the knot and pull both ends together off to the other side of the string. Put one end over the other end then through the loop and pull snug against the bow string. That is your first knot. With one end on either side of the string pull both ends away from the knot to the other side of the string. Cross one end over the other then through the loop and pull snug. That is your second knot of the ten. Now back to the first side with the string ends and tie, then back to the opposite side and tie on to 10 or 15 or whatever you want. Then tie a double knot. Trim the nylon thread leaving 1/8” to ¼” tag ends. Hold a lighter up to these and they will shrivel up unto tiny melted knots which prevent the 10 knot from loosening. I also smear glue on both nocking points. 

These tied on nocking points are much easier on the kids arms than the metal crimp on ones. Having two also gives kids a definite place on the string to place the arrow each time, between them.

Some of you who have had too much training are beginning to realize that each time you re-string the bow the mark on the string may be in a slightly different place in relation to the inside of the limb. This of course slightly changes the brace height and by default the nocking point location in relation to the arrow rest. I have a very profound answer to those issues, so what? Kids don’t care if the nocking point is 1/8“ low or ¾” high, and they aren’t good enough to know the difference as long as it is about the same for each whole shooting session.

ARROWS – Any arrow that is long enough is a good arrow for this purpose. If some of them happen to match a little so much the better.

After our July fourth session some bows showed definite set from being shot almost continuously for over four hours. Again, so what? Reverse the string in the bow ends and you now have a slightly reflexed bow until it takes a set the other way and becomes slightly deflexed again. Then reverse the string again if you want. The arrow rest and nocking points retain relatively about the same relationship.

Now for the bow information, the different materials, sizes, costs, and appropriate draw weights at different draw lengths. Also included are the costs for the misc. items and total final cost per bow.

WHITE SCHEDULE 40 PLUMBING GRADE STICKS All 5’ lengths
Unit Unit
Unit Listed Actual Misc. Total Pull Wt. Pull Wt. Pull Wt. 
Cost Size ID Size Cost Cost at 24” at 26” at 28” 

$ .98 ½” 7/8 OD $ .92 $ 1.90 11.0 12.5 14.0 
1.24	¾” 1&1/16OD .92 2.16 23.5 26.0 28.0

NOTE : These will be your primary kid’s bows and work for all but the smallest kids.
For those youngest ones use the ½” diameter material below. I had to trim those down in length from 5’ to make them strong enough for little kids. What a wonderful problem. 
Other than the ½” size I can see no need to spend several times as much for the material below since the weight ranges of the expensive material are close to the white material.

IVORY COLORED DRINKING WATER GRADE STICKS All Except ½” are 5’

Unit Listed Actual Misc. Total Wt. at Wt. at Wt. at
Cost Size Size Cost Cost 24” 26” 28”

$1.98 ½” ½”ID x 54.5” $ .92 $ 2.90 3.8 4.2 4.9 
1.98 ½” ½”ID x 49.5” .92 2.90 5.7 6.2 7.1
3.47 ¾” 5/8”ID 7/8OD .92 4.39 10.5 11.5 13.0 
6.14 1” 7/8”ID 1&1/8OD 1.32 7.46 25.0 28.0 31.0

Some of these results are averages of 2, 3, or even 4 bows of a given size. 
All readings were taken with an Easton Digital Scale. These are NOT AMO readings. All weights were taken at the back of the bow (side away from the archer). 

From the above numbers you can pre-determine almost any bow weight you need for kids or most adults looking for a fun experience. You just vary length within a diameter to increase or decrease pull weight range.

For about $2.00 a bow you can outfit all but the smallest kids. For them I’m willing to go whole hog and spend the $2.90 for the really light weight bows. These little kids will pay you back with an extra year of life from all their grins. 

I wish you fun. 
Curtis Horton


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## Lowmanj (Sep 1, 2010)

Could you put up some pictures of the different size bows? Like you said, most of the youth bows are to expensive, to heavy, or just plain garbage. I bought a bow for my 4 yr old and she is pulling literally half her body weight and gets frustrated when she cant get it drawn all the way back. Thank you for this extremely cost effective way to bring the little ones to the sport.


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## bows'n'roses (Jun 5, 2007)

Curtis just took photos, but I can't get them posted here as we do not have a photo account anywhere online. I just sent you a PM with our email address. If you'll send us an e, we will send you photos.


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## Lowmanj (Sep 1, 2010)

Thank you.


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## bows'n'roses (Jun 5, 2007)

You're welcome. Curtis made several of these bows and used them at a church event. The kids had a blast. It was good to have several bows onhand and not be out a lot of money.


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## whack&stack (Oct 15, 2007)

did we ever get pics of this?


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## Veni Vidi Vici (Jan 23, 2011)

Lowmanj said:


> Thank you.


You can upload pics to your archerytalk account and then use the link provided with each photo to post it in your bulletin board message.


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## IrregularPulse (Sep 22, 2012)

Anyone have pics of this they can post or send? I'm not seeing the arrow rest in my head. Bought materials and am going to make these for my 4 year old son and 6 year old niece.


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

I would love to see some pictures along with your instructions. I teach at an environmental education school and do archery with the students. It would be really cool to build their own bows and have them shooting them! Wow. The kids would love it.


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## handirifle (Jun 9, 2005)

Look up "PVC bows" on utube, there's tons of em. I saw one where a guy stuffs a 1/2" PVC pipe inside a 3/4" PVC pipe for a 50lb bow. Not sure how they shoot, but for an emergency bow, you could adapt.


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## IrregularPulse (Sep 22, 2012)

Problem with YouTube is they all seem far more advanced than these for kids. Surely someone gas built this and can put up a few pics. 


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## jlpollard (Oct 9, 2011)

I saw this one a while back.
Now I just need to let my grand daughter grow up some = )

http://www.scbowhunters.org/Kids_Corner.html


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## mazer (Mar 24, 2008)

Awesome! Posting to find later. Got a opportunity to introduce a large group of kids to archery an this fits the bill perfectly!


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## reece . (Jul 21, 2012)

What pipe would you need to mAke a higher poundage bigger bow


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## jlpollard (Oct 9, 2011)

reece . said:


> What pipe would you need to mAke a higher poundage bigger bow


Check this one out.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zyV8tZGJtE
I think he said it was 60#.


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## reece . (Jul 21, 2012)

I want one I think I got a trip to town in the future


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## jlpollard (Oct 9, 2011)

I want to make one so bad...just for fun = ))


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## IrregularPulse (Sep 22, 2012)

Grabbing some 1/2" tomorrow to hopefully make something my 4 year old can shoot. Shot the 3' 3/4" one a bit today with a 7.5" BH. Shoots pretty strong. Added an arrow rest to try out tomorrow. I'm really hoping a 1/2" 54" pipe gives my son something he can shoot.


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## whack&stack (Oct 15, 2007)

Still no pics?


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## IrregularPulse (Sep 22, 2012)

I went with a cut piece of the same 3/4" inch pipe for a rest. Picking up some 1/2" pipe today to make a lighter drawing bow. The 3/4" was too stiff for my bow. Works ok for me though


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## Hawkeyepeart (Feb 2, 2012)

Too cool!


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## 22jdub (Feb 22, 2006)

Really want to see some pictures of this, I'm having a hard time visualizing hooking the shower curtain ring to the bow for the rest.


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## IrregularPulse (Sep 22, 2012)

22jdub said:


> Really want to see some pictures of this, I'm having a hard time visualizing hooking the shower curtain ring to the bow for the rest.


Same here as I'd really like to see it. I've 12 rings sitting on my work bench.


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## 22jdub (Feb 22, 2006)

Just found it on a texas hunting thread. Just lay the ring flat on the pvc and tape it down so its centered and even parts sticking off both sides. Going to make these for my two boys this week. My 5 year old has been bummed since he can't quite get his 10lb compound back yet. Great post. 



IrregularPulse said:


> Same here as I'd really like to see it. I've 12 rings sitting on my work bench.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## IrregularPulse (Sep 22, 2012)

Link to the other forum thread?


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## 22jdub (Feb 22, 2006)




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## Hawkeye1970 (Feb 20, 2013)

Here are a few PVC bows I have made in the last couple days. Depending on brace height and length of the recurve you can make them to shoot different poundages. I used 100# rated para cord for the strings. A little bow string wax on the para cord helps stop any fraying of the string.


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## whack&stack (Oct 15, 2007)

How did you recurve the limbs?


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## Hawkeye1970 (Feb 20, 2013)

I used a heat gun, but you could use any heat source that will get the PVC to become soft. I made a jig to flatten out the ends of the pipe then used a 6" cooking pot to recurve the ends. Check out the Backyard Bowyer on you tube, he has made many different kinds of bows from PVC. It's really pretty easy to do.


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## IrregularPulse (Sep 22, 2012)

I don't see how that curved top would help a kid keep the arrow on. I'd think it would slide down.


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## 22jdub (Feb 22, 2006)

The arrow goes through the ring, acts as a full containment rest. Can be used right or left handed.



IrregularPulse said:


> I don't see how that curved top would help a kid keep the arrow on. I'd think it would slide down.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## IrregularPulse (Sep 22, 2012)

Ahh, does it not affect the fletch ins? Or do you not worry about fletchings for these arrows?


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## 22jdub (Feb 22, 2006)

I haven't tried it yet but sounds like the OP has made a ton of these over the years so I'm guessing not


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## 22jdub (Feb 22, 2006)

Made one tonight. Used a metal curtain ring instead of the plastic and the 1/2" ivory colored cpvc. Wrapped the whole thing in dragon duct tape that my oldest son had.


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## GrayTech (Jan 29, 2013)

Shove a 1/2" inside a 3/4" pvc pipe reece ., then flatten them together. Don't make the bow too short though or only a gorilla will be able to pull it! Hahaha.
I made crossbow limbs using 1/2" inside 3/4" inside 1" pvc pipe. 
Also interesting to note is that the grey pvc pipe is thicker walled and stiffer than the white pvc pipe.


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## IrregularPulse (Sep 22, 2012)

Added the ring to my son's bow. Seems to like it. No longer has to worry about the arrow falling. I just had to remind myself. "He's 4. It's ok if the fletchings rub. He's shooting a PVC pipe in the back yard."


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## Hawkeye1970 (Feb 20, 2013)

Looks really good. It's a great way for kids to get into the sport or for an adult looking to work on form.


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## Skunkworkx (Apr 2, 2011)

I might just have to do this....Daughter wants to hunt, but I'm not ready to drop a few hundred on a bow to see "if" she'll like hunting. She's 13 and likes deer meat...but dressing one out on her own....might break a nail :embara:


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## bows'n'roses (Jun 5, 2007)

Ttt


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