# Arrow rest and plunger for recurve ????



## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hey guys
Been shooting my old recurve at 15 yards.Now this bow has a wooden riser. Well after getting the bow balanced.
Now i would like to invest in a better arrow rest and a plunger.

Like every thing else in archery .There is all kinds of trinkets to choose from.And most end up in ones droor.

So with the new types of rest and plunger .What have you had to work for you. Will be shooting 1816 Alumin arrows

I have plastic vains at this time on them.Don't seem to get good clearance. I will be going to feathers .Since iam going to shoot it in doors.

what do you like


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Unk -

Hard to beat the KAP SUPPARTNER MAGNETIC REST

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/sho...=7464&osCsid=930ec3d762b0a93570b834ad23334da5

and Cartel Super Plunger

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/sho...=2079&osCsid=930ec3d762b0a93570b834ad23334da5

for the price. There are certainly fancier versions, but for a first pass, the price is right. I use them on most of my FITA bows and get most of the people I coach started with them. You can get them at Lancaster Archery www.lancasterarchery.com or TradMall www.tradtalk.com.

Viper1 out.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Viper1 said:


> Unk -
> 
> Hard to beat the KAP SUPPARTNER MAGNETIC REST
> 
> ...



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Viper 1] i was in hopes you might show up. 

Thanks for the links. and Advice.



Also what height would you recomend setting rest from the shelf. And would you place the hole on center of the window front and back


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Unk -



> Also what height would you recomend setting rest from the shelf. And would you place the hole on center of the window front and back


The plunger whole will determine where the rest goes.

Try this:

http://www.texasarchery.org/BoardMembers/RickStonebrakerPages/TuningForTens/TuningForTens.html

I set the spring tension as STIFF as it can go. (There should be instructions with the plunger, if not PM me) amd don't bother with the matchstick thing anymore in the above doc.

Also, I wouldn't worry about the spring tension just yet. Time for that later.

Give me a shout if I can help with the procedure.

Viper1 out.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All

Quote = The plunger whole will determine where the rest goes.

Viper 1 ] in my case the plunger hole hasn't been established yet. The riser window ,will need a hole drilled for a insert to except a plunger.Now i have brass inserts for wood.But location is needed .Height from the shelf to center line of hole for the new insert. And i asume the other center line for the new insert hole .Is dtermined by establishing the center of the shelf window .Correct me if iam wrong.


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## Chupacabras (Feb 10, 2006)

Unk,
The Center of the plunger button on my Quinn is 3/4" above the shelf. You might need a whisker buscuit type arrow rest if you plan on trying a release(copper john 2 finger worked for me):wink:


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Unk -

I was afraid of that. 

First, please use a drill press. While it was common practice in the past, drilling into risers was never something I was personally fond of doing. 

Definately get the rest first. Position it as low in the sight window as possible and so the hole is above the deepest part of the grip. That's where you'll drill the riser. It doesn't have to be exact, just close enough for gov't work.

You'll need a 5/16"x24 bushing, That will be epoxied into the newly drilled hole. 

For first time plunger users, just keep the spring stiff and use it to fine tune the centershot/arrow spine. Afterwords, we can play with spring tensions.

_EDIT_ BTW - not sure where Chupacabra got the release idea from, but if you are planning on using one, then a flipper/plunger is NOT the best way to go. They are used to dampen the effects of finger shooters

Viper1 out.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Viper1 said:


> Unk -
> 
> I was afraid of that.
> 
> ...



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Hello All

Quote = drilling into risers was never something I was personally fond of doing

Do know what you mean.Dilled a stablizer hole once in a Wing Presentation 2 bow. When i was young and full of nerve .Now i have a Wing Presentation 2 bow hanging on my wall that needs a stablelizer hole.And one in a bow case that needs one.Even bought special bits.Just couldn't bring myself to drilling that vintage bow. In fact i called Bob and they said they know longer drilled into older bows.Well i solved that problem.Just bought me another Wing Presentation 2 bow that would except a stablizer.And this is the bow i will putting the insert in.

But iam wondering if i should place a piece of tape on the riser window where hole is needed.Maybe not since the bit i have starts small .

I took your advice .Rest and plunger has been ordered from Lancaster


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Unk -

A piece of tape over the insertion point of the bit never hurts, but that's your call.

Let me know how it goes.

Viper1 out.


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## Chupacabras (Feb 10, 2006)

"EDIT BTW - not sure where Chupacabra got the release idea from, but if you are planning on using one, then a flipper/plunger is NOT the best way to go. They are used to dampen the effects of finger shooters"
Unk was asking about it in the general archery forum. Good luck with your project Unk.


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## Naphtali (Oct 14, 2006)

Viper1 said:


> Unk -
> . . . but if you are planning on using one, then a flipper/plunger is NOT the best way to go. They are used to dampen the effects of finger shooters
> 
> Viper1 out.


Were he planning to use a release aid, what would he be looking for?


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello all
While waiting on my Lancaster order

i have went through all of my hand held releases and that included several types of hand held releases. And worked down to a two finger hinge old Stan release. insearch of a release that would give me a good close anchor.And smooth straight delivery.Well last night i pondered in my mine, back to the old days.When i use a home made Concho type release, that replaced my finger tab.And put my score average in the high 90's. So thinking along theses lines.I tried a old Bitty Goose release.  well out to the my range i headed.First thing i noticed was now i could move my sight futher to the left.Which i was in need of. Now my shots seem a lot smoother .And inturn my follow though motion was more backward in a straight line.Also might add less release hand movement.But i did find the trigger on the Lttle Bitty Goose to be hard at full draw.And needed the index finger placed futher out on the trigger pin for a smooter release.But i will solve this with a round slip over drum ,with a allen set screw bolt.

Nothing like haveing a new toy :wink:


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## DwayneR (Feb 23, 2004)

> Were he planning to use a release aid, what would he be looking for?


 A rest that is similar to what a compound would do.

A traditional bow, the arrow goes through a different kind of "paradox" than a compound bow with a release.

the paradox allows the arrow to go "around" the riser, and the finger release initiates this upon release. Thus, on a Traditional bow, the arrow is "offset" to the left (for a right handed person). And on a compound bow, the arrow is usually straight in line, causing the paradox to "tend" to be more up and down. Plunger is not usually needed from the riser (because of the straight linement of the arrow to the bow and string., but a little more action is needed from the bottom side.

Dwayne


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Unk -

Dwayne is spot on, if you're using a release, while the flipper/plunger is "usable", it would NOT be my first choice. 

You are correct in what you said about using a release though, it does all those things and more. It's actually the biggest advantage a compound shooter has.

Viper1 out.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All
Haveing fun.But this light drizzel is trying to dampen my spirits.Just came back in from trying this new uncoot release.But at 15 yards on first target i had 3 X's and other two shots close.

Now iam going to post a picture of this uncoot release. The trigger barrel is about 3/4 of inch to long.Will have Vernie make me a new one shorter.Main thing it dose work.

Would consider it polite here, if you did snicker or have chuckle a little on me. :wink:


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Unk -

Nothing wrong with the release, but if I'd known that's what you were planning on using, I wouldn't have suggested or gone along with the flipper/plunger set up. 

Not saying it won't work, just doesn't follow the theory.

Viper1 out.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Viper1 said:


> Unk -
> 
> Nothing wrong with the release, but if I'd known that's what you were planning on using, I wouldn't have suggested or gone along with the flipper/plunger set up.
> 
> ...


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Hello
I understand.
I ordered 3 types to see .Its just money .:wink:

Now i do need a draw check .Got to come up with a mirrow and mount.Its been to many years to remember back.How i had it mounted.But i do remember when i saw the arrow point in the bottom of the mirrow.That was my correct draw to anchor. Well the rain has stopped again. So


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## DwayneR (Feb 23, 2004)

Hello UNK,



> Now i do need a draw check .Got to come up with a mirrow and mount.Its been to many years to remember back.How i had it mounted.But i do remember when i saw the arrow point in the bottom of the mirrow.That was my correct draw to anchor.


 Why are you worrying about this? A Draw Check? In Traditional, your DL is whatever fits your form, and isn't all that much of a necessity, unless you are shooting a clicker and cutting your arrows to a specified length for the clicker to work.

Dwayne


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

DwayneR said:


> Hello UNK,
> 
> 
> 
> ...


-----------------------------
Hello All
Dwayne lets just say the mirrow is a quiet clicker.

Quote = worrying 
Ans= Theres a differance in pondering and worrying :wink:

Quote = A Draw Check? In Traditional, your DL is whatever fits your form, and isn't all that much of a necessity, 

Ans = O My ] i would have loved , to have heard what Vic Burger's reply would have been to this statement.


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## DwayneR (Feb 23, 2004)

Hello Unk,



> > Quote = A Draw Check? In Traditional, your DL is whatever fits your form, and isn't all that much of a necessity,
> 
> 
> Ans = O My ] i would have loved , to have heard what Vic Burger's reply would have been to this statement.


 I don't understand what you are saying or implying.

Most people lose between a 1/2 " to 1.5 inches between a traditional and compound bow.

A Draw length is just that a DL. If your DL is a certain length when your form is proper, then it is that length. It does not matter how long your arrow is, as long as the rest can hold it up properly. The only time it does matter, is if you are using a clicker, and the arrow is cut to the length to make the clicker work.

So what do you think Vic's reply would be to the above?

Dwayne (Just curious)


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All

Quote = I don't understand what you are saying or implying.

Ans First off iam not implying any thing.  Just remember back to when Vic shot several perfect rounds. Even one at our out door shoot. On a very windy day. Now i condsidered Vic to have good form.He used a mirrow and cut his arrows off.And just wondering what his reply or answer might be.If i had ask him why he needed a draw check.

Now for my view on your statement that, as long as one has the correct form. That will establish ones draw lenth .And arrow lenth dosen't matter.

Sorry but my view dose differ.One might get by by useing a longer arrow with a compound bow.But i feel with a recurve this would differ some what to the arrows lenth.


Speaking of form.] One can have what he thinks to be his perfect form ,when he aproaches the line and begins his scoreing.But lets just say he realy feels good and stong today.And his performance is outstanding.Then this same archer arives the next day to compete again.Well today he is a little sluglish.He didn't sleep well that night . His excitement of the event had taken him to a high.

Now he steps up to the line sets his feet position and form and begins his shot routine.
Now as he shoots. He starts noticeing his groups are not as tight as the day before. He rechecks his form ,stance and so on. And again with a few more shots ,the arrow group dosen't seem to be getting any tighter.Now his nerves comes into play. 

Now speaking of the clicker and mirrow .You can have perfect form .But i asure you the correct tension one has on his draw each and every time delivers better groups.And yes you might say here if the form is correct you will have correct tensions and so on.Well thats in a perfect world.And i asure you other things come in to play that has a bearing on ones form.The event,the amout of rest.Ones food intake .How one feels for that day.And with out some type of draw check. Ones form won't relate each and evrey time the lenth position that arrow is resting on the arrow rest.

Here is things with a clicker,a mirrow or even two strings tied to a compoud cables that will help to tighten ones groups .Now reverting back to where i refered to tension for tighter groups.First speaking of a clicker and i sure you it wasn't for me.Ones form and draw lenth set with a clicker. if ones groups begin opening up on a sluglish day .Then its a matter of moveing the point of the clicker to the archer 1/16 inch till he is satisfied with his groups.

Mirrow ] I set my arrow point in the bottom of the mirrow.If my groups open.Then i bring the arrow point to top view in the mirrow.

Later


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Unk, Dwayne -

The clicker is probably the most important tool on a serious sight shooter's rig. For the intermediate guys, it gives them enough time at anchor to complete their checklists; for the more experienced shooters it confirms their draw length. Remember at the longer ranges 1/4" change in draw length can mean the difference between a bull and a total miss. The problem with the close range indoor stuff is that even at some relatively high levels there's a lot you can get a way with and still score. 

There are some factors in draw length that most of use never even consider. At close range without a clicker, you never know about the 1/4" or even more you can be off. With a clicker, that last 1/8" can tell you a lot.

Viper1 out.


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## DwayneR (Feb 23, 2004)

Hello Viper,

Here is my comment:


> Why are you worrying about this? A Draw Check? In Traditional, your DL is whatever fits your form, and isn't all that much of a necessity, unless you are shooting a clicker and cutting your arrows to a specified length for the clicker to work.


 If you get right down to it, your DL is just that your DL. Whether that arrow sticks 3 inches past the end of the riser, or 1 inch past the riser, it still has nothing to do with how accurate you are going to shoot. In other words, "cutting" arrows just because they stick out IMO is asinine. A long arrow shoots just as good as a shorter arrow.

The only thing I see, is if you use a clicker. This makes it very important to cut the arrows to a specific size for the consistency and accuracy. For without the proper size, a clicker is not doing its job. I have never seen a clicker used as a hunting setup. (I am not saying it should not be), I am only saying that most folks I know of don't use a clicker.... for the very reason why you stated "In short yardage, a quarter of a inch makes little difference on your shot"

What I am saying, is:

If you do not use a clicker: 
If that arrow is 31 inches long, and it is spined properly for your bow and draw weight, and it works for you, there is no necessity to "cut it down", unless it makes you feel good. (But then you gotta play with the piles to correct the spine difference again).

If you do use a clicker, then you had better cut to the correct length and play with piles to spine it properly.

If the above is wrong or incorrect, what is wrong or incorrect about it, and why? Is there something I am not thinking about? forgetting? Missing?

Dwayne


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