# Form check newbie to thumb release



## Mbrown4 (Aug 23, 2019)

Hi everybody, I've been shooting a bow since I was a kid. Always with a trigger style wrist release. I always have had the release fully extended to where the tip of my finger would be used to fire the shot. So naturally, my anchor point changed quite a bit when switching to a thumb release (nock2it). I always felt super comfortable in my anchor point with my wrist release, and shot fairly well (for a hunter atleast). Now I haven't put much time behind this release at all, so everything feels very awkward. But I wanted to share a picture that I had the wife take real quick just to see if y'all had any obvious things for me to work on right away. If I'm reinventing the wheel, I'd rather start off on the right foot. I know my form probably leaves a lot to be desired, but that's why I'm here so I'm open to all suggestions. This was a quick draw and snap shot so I don't believe I was 100% comfortable at this point but with a 8 month old running around you just try to get what you can from the wife when she's willing to help me out for a second. Lol. 

Also, I guess a few questions of mine would be do y'all see my draw length being an issue here, or would a longer string loop be an issue (to get me closer back to my natural anchor point)? I'm fully committed to working with the handheld release, and leaving the wrist release behind so any help/tips are much appreciated.









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## Robspartacus (Feb 20, 2017)

If you were square I could tell more. If your bow arm was square and your arrow aimed straight and the string touched your nose then yes, you could extend D Loop for anchor. You need to post a pic showing entire body and wait for nuts&bolts to show you the ways of the Jedi. 

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## patches2565 (Jun 21, 2015)

So a good start is to google nuts and bolts and download his guide. He not only goes into form but how to present a picture for review. 

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## Mbrown4 (Aug 23, 2019)

patches2565 said:


> So a good start is to google nuts and bolts and download his guide. He not only goes into form but how to present a picture for review.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Thanks. I'll look into it and try to get another one tomorrow morning

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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Mbrown4 said:


> Hi everybody, I've been shooting a bow since I was a kid. Always with a trigger style wrist release. I always have had the release fully extended to where the tip of my finger would be used to fire the shot. So naturally, my anchor point changed quite a bit when switching to a thumb release (nock2it). I always felt super comfortable in my anchor point with my wrist release, and shot fairly well (for a hunter atleast). Now I haven't put much time behind this release at all, so everything feels very awkward. But I wanted to share a picture that I had the wife take real quick just to see if y'all had any obvious things for me to work on right away. If I'm reinventing the wheel, I'd rather start off on the right foot. I know my form probably leaves a lot to be desired, but that's why I'm here so I'm open to all suggestions. This was a quick draw and snap shot so I don't believe I was 100% comfortable at this point but with a 8 month old running around you just try to get what you can from the wife when she's willing to help me out for a second. Lol.
> 
> Also, I guess a few questions of mine would be do y'all see my draw length being an issue here, or would a longer string loop be an issue (to get me closer back to my natural anchor point)? I'm fully committed to working with the handheld release, and leaving the wrist release behind so any help/tips are much appreciated.
> 
> ...


Camera has be off the chair and all the way up at the same height as the arrow.
Next, lift the bow arm higher and higher until the arrow is DEAD LEVEL. Put on shoes, cuz that changes how you stand. Photo more like this.
PS. Get your feet/ankles closer together, so the legs are vertical, less of a pyramid. TAKE off the hat. Need to see all of your head.



The string/plumb bob helped this fella learn how to stand up straight.

Photo more like this.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Mbrown4 said:


> Hi everybody, I've been shooting a bow since I was a kid. Always with a trigger style wrist release. I always have had the release fully extended to where the tip of my finger would be used to fire the shot. So naturally, my anchor point changed quite a bit when switching to a thumb release (nock2it). I always felt super comfortable in my anchor point with my wrist release, and shot fairly well (for a hunter atleast). Now I haven't put much time behind this release at all, so everything feels very awkward. But I wanted to share a picture that I had the wife take real quick just to see if y'all had any obvious things for me to work on right away. If I'm reinventing the wheel, I'd rather start off on the right foot. I know my form probably leaves a lot to be desired, but that's why I'm here so I'm open to all suggestions. This was a quick draw and snap shot so I don't believe I was 100% comfortable at this point but with a 8 month old running around you just try to get what you can from the wife when she's willing to help me out for a second. Lol.
> 
> Also, I guess a few questions of mine would be do y'all see my draw length being an issue here, or would a longer string loop be an issue (to get me closer back to my natural anchor point)? I'm fully committed to working with the handheld release, and leaving the wrist release behind so any help/tips are much appreciated.
> 
> ...


Anchor for the handle release and anchor for the wrist strap release are COMPLETELY different. So, forget about your "Usual" anchor with the wrist strap release.
You have a tremendous amount of rotation on your right wrist. Knuckles are near vertical straight up and down. This makes it difficult to find the edge of your jawbone. MOst folks try 45 degrees on the wrist (right side), so the pointer finger knuckle rides UNDER the jawbone, and the middle finger knuckle rides above the jaw bone. Then we tune the d-loop length to get the best forearm angle, for maximum leverage (hold most steady). Obviously shorter d-loop will move the anchor forwards, and the right forearm will be a steeper downhill angle, when the arrow is dead level. Obviously longer d-loop will move the anchor backwards, so the right forearm is a flatter downhill angle. Need the camera off the chair, need the camera all the way up to the same height as the arrow. If your photographer needs a step ladder, then so be it, but need that camera much higher.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Mbrown4 said:


> Hi everybody, I've been shooting a bow since I was a kid. Always with a trigger style wrist release. I always have had the release fully extended to where the tip of my finger would be used to fire the shot. So naturally, my anchor point changed quite a bit when switching to a thumb release (nock2it). I always felt super comfortable in my anchor point with my wrist release, and shot fairly well (for a hunter atleast). Now I haven't put much time behind this release at all, so everything feels very awkward. But I wanted to share a picture that I had the wife take real quick just to see if y'all had any obvious things for me to work on right away. If I'm reinventing the wheel, I'd rather start off on the right foot. I know my form probably leaves a lot to be desired, but that's why I'm here so I'm open to all suggestions. This was a quick draw and snap shot so I don't believe I was 100% comfortable at this point but with a 8 month old running around you just try to get what you can from the wife when she's willing to help me out for a second. Lol.
> 
> Also, I guess a few questions of mine would be do y'all see my draw length being an issue here, or would a longer string loop be an issue (to get me closer back to my natural anchor point)? I'm fully committed to working with the handheld release, and leaving the wrist release behind so any help/tips are much appreciated.
> 
> ...


Definitely some fitment issues, which is why you are not so comfy. I know you are TRYING real hard to get the string to touch your nose, and you have a short ATA, and a longer side draw length, so cuz you have the nock up SOOOO high, darn near at the corner of your mouth, just so the string can touch your nose...your release hand has no physical reference, and your wrist is cranked sooo vertical, your release hand slides up and down your cheek. When we get a better photo, we can try to fix that.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Mbrown4 said:


> Hi everybody, I've been shooting a bow since I was a kid. Always with a trigger style wrist release. I always have had the release fully extended to where the tip of my finger would be used to fire the shot. So naturally, my anchor point changed quite a bit when switching to a thumb release (nock2it). I always felt super comfortable in my anchor point with my wrist release, and shot fairly well (for a hunter atleast). Now I haven't put much time behind this release at all, so everything feels very awkward. But I wanted to share a picture that I had the wife take real quick just to see if y'all had any obvious things for me to work on right away. If I'm reinventing the wheel, I'd rather start off on the right foot. I know my form probably leaves a lot to be desired, but that's why I'm here so I'm open to all suggestions. This was a quick draw and snap shot so I don't believe I was 100% comfortable at this point but with a 8 month old running around you just try to get what you can from the wife when she's willing to help me out for a second. Lol.
> 
> Also, I guess a few questions of mine would be do y'all see my draw length being an issue here, or would a longer string loop be an issue (to get me closer back to my natural anchor point)? I'm fully committed to working with the handheld release, and leaving the wrist release behind so any help/tips are much appreciated.
> 
> ...


John Dudley has some great videos about how to anchor with a handle release. Notice the angle of his wrist...closer to 45 degrees.



The reason for the 45 degrees on the wrist, is so you can get the pointer finger knuckle UNDER your jawbone. Your jawbone (edge of jawbone) becomes your HARD reference for how high your release hand is above the ground. With your release hand soooo VERTICAL, your release hand can slide higher or lower for each shot. Your NOCK is sky high on your face, cuz you are trying to get that sharp string angle to touch your nose. Dudley talks about a "pocket" under the corner of your mouth...roughly 1/2-inch or 3/4 inch below corner of the mouth. Dudley prefers that folks set the peep HIGHER in your case, so the nock can ride lower on your face. Yes, the sharp string angle will mean the string no longer touches your nose, if you set the peep higher on the string. The advantage of the nock riding in the "pocket" is that your pointer finger knuckle can slide UNDER your jawbone, for a better vertical control on your release hand. The d-loop and the bow draw length setting, controls how far BACK your pointer finger knuckle rides UNDER your jawbone

YOu have a hefty bend in your left elbow. Would like to see in your next photo, what happens if you completely UNBEND the left elbow. Just for one test photo.


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## Mbrown4 (Aug 23, 2019)

nuts&bolts said:


> John Dudley has some great videos about how to anchor with a handle release. Notice the angle of his wrist...closer to 45 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I appreciate all the info! Once we get back to the house from family Christmas I'm going to try to execute the things you have said and get some more photos!

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