# Athens 2 Track Dual Cam Timing



## -bowfreak-

First let me start this off by saying that I am by no means an expert on this type of cams but I hope that my familiarity with hybrid type cams coupled with my conversations with both Jason and Wes at Athens will allow me to provide some technical assistance. Hopefully this will help those of you who have been asking questions on tuning these cams and ultimately finding the sweet spot for optimal performance. I have taken a few pictures too that should help explain the process and go along with the thread.


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## -bowfreak-

The first step is to remove the draw stop from the top cam. Since the bottom cam/stop is going to be your reference for tuning it is best to remove the top stop. It is not needed at this time and removing it will guarantee that the top draw stop won’t come into contact with the top limb before the bottom stop comes into contact with the bottom limb should your top cam be too fast/advanced.

Now, let’s move onto the bottom draw stop. At this point I would recommend moving the bottom stop to roughly the 65% let off position. This will safeguard against the bow being locked up at full draw due to excessive let off. Given the marks on the cam are only reference marks you could have the bottom draw stop adjusted to the 80% mark and it could actually be much greater. The point of the hex nut (near the index mark) on the draw stop is what I use for indexing. Adjust it to the 65% mark (see the mark indicated by the red arrow in the pic below). This may be more or less than 65% let-off and regardless of the actual value, moving the draw stop to this position will be sufficient for timing.


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## -bowfreak-

Now it is time to go to the draw board. If you don’t have a draw board you can use a hook that is mounted securely to a wall stud, roof support or floor joist. Use the hook to hold the string stationary as you pull the riser toward you to full draw so that you can inspect the cams. For purposes of this thread we will assume you are timing with a draw board.










When placing your Athens in the draw board it is best to lay it down so that the sight widow is facing your draw board (See pic above). This guarantees that you will be able to see the bowstring pegs, the reference point I use for timing. I also like to remove my stabilizer and put an old arrow into the bow to safeguard from a dry fire in the event of catastrophic failure (loop break or something to that effect).


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## -bowfreak-

Next step is to draw the bow in your draw board to the point where the bow is exactly at full draw. At this point you will need to look at the underside of the cam because your bow is oriented to inspect the string pegs and not the draw stops. I like to make sure that the rubber ring that is on the perimeter of the draw stop is compressed completely. This will simulate drawing into the wall of the bow. On my draw board I have a turnbuckle that I use to adjust this exactly. I draw the bow to where the stop is almost touching and then fine tune with my turnbuckle. The pic below shows what the stop will look like when it is in this position.


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## -bowfreak-

Now you have your bow at full draw and are ready to check for proper time. To do this I have found that it is easiest to use the peg (see red arrows) where the bowstring attaches to the cam as a reference point. Depending on how many twists you have in your cables and the position of your draw stop, your pegs may be in a different position at full draw. Measure the distance from the peg on the bottom cam (either just by eye or actual measurement) to one cable or as in the case of these pictures, measure how much of the peg is being covered up by one of the cables. Now take the same exact measurement on the tap cam. If they are the same, you are in time. 

*Bottom Cam*










*Top Cam*










If the cams are not in time what do we do now? First we need to determine if the top cam is either fast (over rotated) or slow (under rotated) when compared to the bottom cam. The cam travels in the direction of the purple arrow (see above), so if the top peg has moved farther in the direction of the yellow arrow when compared to the bottom string peg the top cam is “fast” or over rotated. If the top peg hasn’t traveled as far as the bottom peg then your top cam is “slow” or under rotated.

*See below both cams merged into one photo. Top cam is on the left and the bottom cam on the right:*
_Note: The angle difference from the 2 original photos shows the top cam very slightly under rotated._


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## -bowfreak-

Now we have determined that our cams are in time or the top cam is either fast or slow when compared to the bottom cam. To adjust timing, use the cable that passes through the limb fork on the bottom cam (circled in red in pic below). If your top cam is slow, you will need to twist the cable that runs through the limb fork if your top cam is fast, you will need to untwist the same cable. Start out by just adding or removing one twist at a time. This will keep you from overcorrecting since a little will go a long way. ½ twists may be required later to fine tune the cam timing.










Now your have made your adjustments and your cams are in time. You can actually play with the timing some and might find that advancing the top cam just a tad might give you better performance. The blue circle in the picture above denotes the cable that wraps around the axle (the other cable).


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## -bowfreak-

Now that we have our cams in time the only thing left to do is to set the bottom draw stop. This is done by determining the amount of let-off/holding weight you would like. Let’s say that you prefer 80% and you have your peak weight set to 60 lbs. That means that you are looking for 12 lbs. of holding weight. 

Now we have removed the bow from the draw board and take it to the bow scale. Check the bow for peak weight and figure out your desired holding weight. By using the above scenario as an example you would make sure the bow is on 60 lbs. and that your holding weight is 12 pounds. Since we originally had our stop adjusted toward the 65% mark the bow will more than likely be holding more than 12 lbs. If the holding weight is above 12 lbs. move the draw stop slightly toward the 80% mark and then check the holding weight. Continue moving the draw stop incrementally toward the 80% mark and checking holding weight until you achieve the desired let-off. * Be careful not to go too far past 80% as your bow will not let down to brace should you reach a certain point!* Once you have achieved your desired let-off tighten down the draw stop securely.

Finally, reinstall the top draw stop. Leave the screw a little loose so that you can slide the stop in the groove. Now put the bow back into the draw board. Draw the bow to full draw making sure that the rubber ring is compressed on the bottom stop against the limb. Make sure not to overdraw the bow and just draw it to the exact point where the ring is compressed (as if you yourself were drawing into the stops). Now with the bow at full draw slide the top draw stop around the cam to where either there is a slight gap or just to the point where the stop is barely touching the limb with the ring decompressed. Tighten down your top draw stop and you are DONE. There is no need to set the stop to hit the limb at the exact same time as the bottom stop. In reality the top stop is nothing more than an emergency stop to keep you from overdrawing/locking your cams.


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## -bowfreak-

*Finding the Sweet Spot*

Basically what we are doing is twisting/untwisting the cables and the bowstring to change the cam orientation/rotation. As you add equal twists into BOTH cables you load the limbs, add draw weight, add draw length and allow the cams to rotate farther. It is a process of trial and error and I am just now exploring this myself with good results.

Now you need your press, a chronograph and something to shoot into. Shoot your bow a few times through the chronograph and write down the reading. Assuming you are at the proper measured draw length now you can begin by adding a few twists into BOTH cables. Make sure that you add the same amount to each cable to keep your cams in time. You will need to add about 2 twists into the bowstring for every 3 or 4 twists added to the cables. This is done to maintain draw length and draw weight. *REMEMBER when timing always time from the cable that passes through the limb fork on the bottom cam and when tweaking always adjust both cables and string in a similar manner described above.* 

I start out adding about 3 twists into the cables and 2 into the string and see where that puts my speed. I write down the number of twists I add to both cables and the amount added to the string, shoot through the chronograph, record the speed and compare with previous numbers. Continue this process until you find the optimal spot on the cam where the speed is the greatest or to where the cam provides the exact feel and shootability you are looking for. 

Remember that as you get closer to the sweet spot make your adjustments much smaller. You might get down to adding or removing ½ twists? Continue to keep check on your draw length and weight all through this process because as you add twists you will definitely gain speed if you gain draw length and draw weight…..so to ensure you are in the sweet spot you must maintain draw length and weight. Once you are happy with the performance of your bow recheck draw length, draw weight and timing just to make sure you don’t have anything awry. Adjust if necessary by keeping in mind what you need to twist/untwist to achieve your desired results. You may also gain speed by playing with the let-off. Keep in mind that as you lower let-off you will also lower draw length a tiny bit. 

So there you have some simple instructions on how to get started. Now you have a tuned and timed Athens bow that is set at the proper draw length, draw weight and desired holding weight. Working on this type of cam is all new to me and hopefully by starting this thread we will open up some discussion and maybe learn a little along the way. 










I almost forgot to mention……be sure to check out all of the Binary Tuning threads by Dave Nowlin as he is a true expert on these types of cams.


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## Alpha Burnt

Great pictures, and post. Very informative and practical. How much increase did you gain by tweaking the rollover?


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## whitetail25

Great post bowfreak.. I will definately be using this thread to help me tune my new Accomplice...Thanks for the help...:thumbs_up


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## -bowfreak-

So far I have gained about 8 or 9 FPS. I am still playing with it a bit. 

I am sure some of these tuners that do quite a bit of work on these cams could get more but I am happy with my results so far.


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## LXCON3

I like to set my top cam just a tiny bit slow in the draw cycle, or if you refer to the shot cycle, it is advanced. Is that what you were referring to when you said that you like to advance the top cam?


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## Terps1

thank you -bowfreak-

this is exactly what i have been looking for...just waiting on the press to be dropped off and i will be all over this til i can find my sweet spot.


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## -bowfreak-

LXCON3 said:


> I like to set my top cam just a tiny bit slow in the draw cycle, or if you refer to the shot cycle, it is advanced. Is that what you were referring to when you said that you like to advance the top cam?


Actually LXCON3 I was just more or less giving examples and wasn't quite clear about it. The only reason I mentioned it was because when shooting Hoyts for years after I timed by draw board I would follow up with creep tuning. My top cam would always end up slightly over rotated at full draw..... maybe a 1/2 twist to a twist.

Do you get better performance out of ******ing the top cam?


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## Belicoso

Nice read.If the cams would have timing dots/marks it is easier as far as having more reference points while getting the cams into sync.


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## Alpha Burnt

I believe this should be stickied.


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## worm24

Great info thanks!


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## rgecko23

Guys I am completely new at this tuning thing, 

So your bow wasnt in time when you got it? Is this something that I will have to do? Being a new bow and all? I thought the bows where timed before they were sent off?


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## -bowfreak-

rgecko23 said:


> Guys I am completely new at this tuning thing,
> 
> So your bow wasnt in time when you got it? Is this something that I will have to do? Being a new bow and all? I thought the bows where timed before they were sent off?


No. Mine was in tune but I started tweaking it. I added twists to the cables. I just had to ensure after each of my adjustments that it stayed in time. My bet is yours will come from Athens dead nuts.


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## bloodtrail1

Great info!


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## -bowfreak-

I have had a few PMs about this.....so here is a :bump:


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## Terry A

*Great Info*

Thanks for the info :thumbs_up:thumbs_up


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## saddleman37

nice read this will help me out a bunch. getting my board finished this weekend hopefuly.


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## 05-BTOG

Great read, thanks Freak.


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## Stab

Awsome post! Thanks for the help...This will help tremendously!


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## CutTheLoop

bump... good post


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## waschnurr

Bump--- Good info


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## shooter6687

*Thanks,, very helpfull..*

With all the new Athens shooters out there and more to come lets keep this up top..


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## waschnurr

no problem


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## Spikealot

*Thanks!*

Awesome job Bowfreak !!!
It is great to see a new thread on here that is actually informative rather than the same-old equipment bashing bs.


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## Spikealot

Bump for Mark


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## SHUEY

Mark I just found this!

This is good stuff!


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## CutTheLoop

ttt


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## Bert Colwell

Very nicely done Bowfreak!


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## markb317

very good info. should help alot of people with there bows.


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## garrickt

Stay up there!


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## rooster4l

ttt


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## garrickt

Too much info to be so far back


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## cartman308

Belicoso said:


> Nice read.If the cams would have timing dots/marks it is easier as far as having more reference points while getting the cams into sync.


believe it or not, timing marks are patented........ crazy....


Nice thread freak! somehow i missed this entirerly!


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## Belicoso

cartman308 said:


> believe it or not, timing marks are patented........ crazy....
> 
> 
> Nice thread freak! somehow i missed this entirerly!


Are you kidding??


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## mitchell

Can somebody get this thing stickied? Please.


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## cartman308

Belicoso said:


> Are you kidding??


that's what I was told. Haven't done the patent search myself but I trust the source


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## geoffrey

Great thread! Very helpful.


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## blrrobinson21

Great info Mark! Thanks a bunch.


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## rodneyroberts32

ttt


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## Out West

Good post. It will definitely help when I get my Exceed... I am surprised about the cams not having any timing dots. My Elites and NBA bows had timing dots. If dots are a patent issue  , then why do these other bows have them and not Athens?


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## Zypher

Awesome information.


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## Schpankme

Excellent thread from my Archery Jewels Folder


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## maineyotekiller

Good thread!


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## ProtecMan

Need to book mark this one! Thanks!


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## Alpha Burnt

Great thread bump


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## whack n stack

Take it up.


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## VAHUNTER01

very informative thread. something we should all know how to do


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## pjridge

Good info. I have a question if anyone can answer. When the op sync the cams, did he adjust the top to sync with the bottom? If so how did he know the bottom cam was in correct orientation? Did I miss something?


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## pjridge

Im new to Athens but I know elite give measurements from a hole in the cam to the limb. Just wondering if Athens does the same.


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## willie7018

marking for future reference


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## Alpha Burnt

Great thread bump


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## mt hunter22

good read


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## Longbow42

Good read. I have been playing with my Strother Moxie. They are nice because they have draw pegs in the cams which help to time your cams. I tune to get them about 1/16" from the cables, then set my stops in impressed. Still playing to see where the optimal cam rotation is located.


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## bfoot

Throughout your presentation your are confusing timing with synching the cams. Timing has to do with the starting potion of the cams and this is accomplished by specing the string set under 100lbs tension. You not that with the stops hit at thte same time the bow is in tune, this is incorrect, it is in synch. 
Also. rather than worry about setting the stops at 80% at the beginning, you can loosen both stops and attach a digital scale (there should be one to optimize use of the draw board) and as you near the end of the draw watch the scale, it will begin dropping. Crank until you get to 20lbs and then use the turnbuckle to fine tune hold weight.
I suggest you read Nuts&Bolts tuning guide at the beginning of the General Archery Forum. It is downloadable, free about 150 pages and explains synching and timing the cams, the difference between the two, and how to do it.
Specing string set is the very first thing to do when tuning your bow. String and cable lengths control every aspect of the bow and if not correct to start with, all efforts are in vain.


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## itsashooter

Great information, marking for later use and to the top


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## martinez8308

Great information first time athens owner and this made tuning it not so scary


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## spiker12

Future reference


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## concretekid33

great thread!!!


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## klean1

This thread is great, but I disagree with how your going about it. I don't want my draw pegs hitting the limbs at separate times. This creates a spongy wall feeling and its not consistent. I would much rather back my draw stops out to max, and time my cams to draw exactly the same into the wall.


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## Rage76

Great INFO MAN I am looking forward to getting my ANTHEM and get it set up CAN'T WAIT !! THANKS AGAIN!! I'll for sure check out the guy you mentioned in this post about these cams!!


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