# Fat shafts + heavy points = Trouble



## itchyfinger (Jun 14, 2007)

What blade do you have on the TT?? To me it would make sense that the heavier weight would make it easier to draw on the spring....I would lower your poundage and really make sure it is not you doing something funny during the draw....like putting torque on the string when drawing back....When I switched to a handle type release I had mega trouble with the arrows bounceing off the spring. I found that I was pulling back with my hand in a verticle position instead of a horizontal position and was putting torque on my D loop......


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## psargeant (Aug 1, 2004)

Is it the 2 hole TT? I ask because I had the same problem. Aside fronm the previous suggestion (making sure its not you...in my case some of it was), I think the blade angle on the TT (2 hole version) being so steep contributed to the problem. I wound up loosening the rest and rotating the back of it up to lessen the angle to get by until I could switch to a Pro-tuner. Give it a try it seemed to help for me...


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## toyrunner (Jun 26, 2006)

I have the two hole version .012 blade. It is me drawing that makes it happen as it doesn't do it every time. Pat - I already tilted the back of the rest up to reduce the angle and didn't seem to help the bouncing issue much at all. I will try to draw with my Just B Cuz in a more horizontal position as I have it fairly vertical at anchor, so it would make sense that I'm twisting during the draw to get it there. Pro Tuner rests with the 1/4" .010 blade and backer don't have the same problem??


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## itchyfinger (Jun 14, 2007)

I have not expermented with different blades yet....that's why I have the GFK with adjustable blade tension....but with the extra weight on bigger diameter you might want to try a stiffer blade...they are pretty cheap.


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## DarrinM (May 21, 2002)

toyrunner said:


> I have the two hole version .012 blade. It is me drawing that makes it happen as it doesn't do it every time. Pat - I already tilted the back of the rest up to reduce the angle and didn't seem to help the bouncing issue much at all. I will try to draw with my Just B Cuz in a more horizontal position as I have it fairly vertical at anchor, so it would make sense that I'm twisting during the draw to get it there. Pro Tuner rests with the 1/4" .010 blade and backer don't have the same problem??



My guess is the loop is too tight on the nok and you are getting a little pinch. Try tieing you loop under the arrow. 

If you are using a loop on the release try an eliminator button under the arrow. Should take it all away....


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## itchyfinger (Jun 14, 2007)

DarrinM said:


> My guess is the loop is too tight on the nok and you are getting a little pinch. Try tieing you loop under the arrow.
> 
> If you are using a loop on the release try an eliminator button under the arrow. Should take it all away....


Ah...good call! I overlook that alot


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## erasmu (Oct 15, 2005)

Does your bow draw smoothly? Can you pull it back slowly? When I used a high let off module, there was a noticeable bump in my draw where it would speed up after I got to the hump. I changed to a low let off module and can draw slowly and smoothly. I have both 440 and 507 grain arrows with 150 grain tips. Neither bounces on my .012 wide blade (Trophy Taker 1).

Is your draw weight low enough to easily handle?


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## archerycharlie (Nov 4, 2002)

I am shooting the 30x shafts with 150 up front cut at the rest with an .012 blade on gfk rest with no problems at 56# 29" draw Martin Razor. AC


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## field14 (May 21, 2002)

it is next to impossible for me to shoot any fat shaft on any narrow blade, period. regardless of point weight, angle of the blade....the arrow is going to come off that rest quite often, and i get "skidders' all the time...and wild misses.
as soon as i go back to the old reliable uncut pacesetter blade, problem goes away.

however, i took some heed to past performance, re-read what cousin dave had to say about fat shafts only being good for perfect shots and less than perfect shots were going to miss.

I ran a personal test again tonite by scoring 3 rounds:

round #1 with correctly spined arrows ULPro 600's with 90 grain points: 310 out of 330...and a 147 second half that started with a "27" end.

Round #2 using GT 22 series...305/330 and tough to control left and right.

Round #3 with 30X shafts...,tough to control period...294 on a 330 round...

Of course, all rounds were shot with a fallaway arrow rest and NOT a locked down launcher rest.

NO USE SHOOTING FAT SHAFTS when I score better with the skinny ones, right?

field14:shade:


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## 3B43 (Mar 16, 2006)

Ultra Elite @ 62#/29"/XT2000/cam .5 shooting X7 2413 w/180 points off a TT SS w/a .012" single hole THIN blade. I have the same problem, but its ONLY when I'm not paying attention to my draw cycle and just 'pullin the bow back'. The arrow bounces some, BUT . . . the bow is usually tilted to the left 'somewhat', and when it bounces, tilted some . . . the arrow falls off. This is a 'puller' issue (ahh, archer) and when I pay attention, I don't have a problem. 

Hope this helps.


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## psargeant (Aug 1, 2004)

toyrunner said:


> I have the two hole version .012 blade. It is me drawing that makes it happen as it doesn't do it every time. Pat - I already tilted the back of the rest up to reduce the angle and didn't seem to help the bouncing issue much at all. I will try to draw with my Just B Cuz in a more horizontal position as I have it fairly vertical at anchor, so it would make sense that I'm twisting during the draw to get it there. Pro Tuner rests with the 1/4" .010 blade and backer don't have the same problem??


I rarely lose one off of my pro tuner, most likely because I switch to a wider blade for fat shafts. I have 2 blades, one for field, one for indoor, and for a variety of reasons, I like the tuner rest better. I think the lower angle helps and I just like the adjustability of the tuner rests...


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## Man-n-Pink (Nov 7, 2006)

*2613's*

I shoot 2613's @ 29.5 in and I'm pretty sure that my points are upwards of 375 grains. shot them thru paper with coach and punched a perfect hole. If my bounces off the rest its because my draw is not smooth.


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## Marcus (Jun 19, 2002)

Mine does it quite often because I don't draw very smoothly. I just ut em long enough to flick em back on. I make sure I don't change my hand position when doing it.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

field14 said:


> it is next to impossible for me to shoot any fat shaft on any narrow blade, period. regardless of point weight, angle of the blade....the arrow is going to come off that rest quite often, and i get "skidders' all the time...and wild misses.
> as soon as i go back to the old reliable uncut pacesetter blade, problem goes away.
> 
> however, i took some heed to past performance, re-read what cousin dave had to say about fat shafts only being good for perfect shots and less than perfect shots were going to miss.
> ...



You don't think you got a little tired? :noidea:

You shoot good enough that unless something is really wrong you shouldn't shoot 20 points lower if you shot limbs instead of arrows.


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## RchurE (Mar 20, 2007)

I too have experienced the bouncy bounce issue. I posted this thread in gen pop a while back and got all kinds of different answers:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=550324

Through my anecdotal research (trials and errors) I can tell you the points are certainly the culprit. You can definitely make it some better by relieving any tension you may have on the nock (pinch) as well as working on a smoother draw but I can say for a fact that any little bounce will be amplified by the heavy points on a spring steel rest. 

I'll tell you what I have and what works best for me. I have both the Pro Tuner and the TT SS 1. I have both wide and narrow blades for both rests (1/4" XL on the Pro Tuner and wide TT blade). The arrow is much easier to draw on the TT wide launcher. It looks like clearance will be better on the wide Pro Tuner blade but it still doesn't hold the arrow quite as well as the TT. I think the Pro Tuner is a happy medium but mine still falls off if I jiggle the least little bit. If I don't have clearance problems then I'm going to stay with the TT.

Hope that helps.


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## I BOW 2 (May 22, 2002)

I will bet you dollars to doughnuts that if you "oil" the grip on the bow so that it is impossible to tourque your bounce will go away!. Sometimes the grip you put into the bow is not always the same torque free position that you think it is. Couple this with a draw stroke that maybe going against a true string path to full draw and the bow riser is trying to fight its position against your hand. Hence a bouncing arrow. Ken


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## toyrunner (Jun 26, 2006)

Well I went to the range today and tried a bit of everything you guy's had to suggest...took 1/2 round out of my limbs, lowered the knot below my arrow a tad, held my release more horizontal until I get to full draw and really try hard to draw smoooooth. The arrow only fell of the rest once and I shot for two hours. The one time it did fall off I could have predicted it because my draw didn't feel right. The arrow still kinda chattered a few times but didn't jump off the rest. Thanks for the help, I know this makes me feel much better about my set-up.


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