# Broadheads hit 2" high and left, why?



## Trevor02TA (Sep 8, 2009)

Sounds like you need to walkback tune/ broadhead tune. You'll need to move your rest slightly. Lots of info on this if you use the search.


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## bfisher (Nov 30, 2002)

Well, for one thing you're relying on paper tuning. It's just rough tuning. Get it close and then do your broadhead tuning. Adjust the bow according to what your broadheads tell you.

Try other methods of tuning also. Bare shaft through paper---close. Keep backing up. When you're getting a bullet hole through paper at 20 yards with a bare shaft your bow might be perfect. Expect this to take about 2 months of tuning. Seriously, don't rely on one method of tuning.

Sounds to me like your nocking point is a touch low and the arrows are acting a touch stiff. Always make vertical adjustments first.

Persoanlly I never paper tune inless I'm limited to only indoors. When I can get outside I bare shaft tune, often out to 35 yards. When the arrow is shooting like a laser beam I consider it pretty close. And yes, this sometimes takes me months of dicking around with it, but when I'm done I can sometimes shoot a broadhead on a bare shaft out to 30 yards and be real close.


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## GWN_Nuge (Oct 1, 2004)

bfisher said:


> Well, for one thing you're relying on paper tuning. It's just rough tuning. Get it close and then do your broadhead tuning. Adjust the bow according to what your broadheads tell you.
> 
> Try other methods of tuning also. Bare shaft through paper---close. Keep backing up. When you're getting a bullet hole through paper at 20 yards with a bare shaft your bow might be perfect. Expect this to take about 2 months of tuning. Seriously, don't rely on one method of tuning.
> 
> ...


A buddy was bare shaft tuning a couple of weeks ago at about 10 yards. First arrow was fletched and nailed the mark. Second was a bare shaft and he hoodied the first one. First time I've seen a robinhood using a bare shaft Bareshaft and walkback tuning work well for me.


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## thunderbolt (Oct 11, 2002)

GWN_Nuge said:


> A buddy was bare shaft tuning a couple of weeks ago at about 10 yards. First arrow was fletched and nailed the mark. Second was a bare shaft and he hoodied the first one. First time I've seen a robinhood using a bare shaft Bareshaft and walkback tuning work well for me.



Then he went to the sportsman's show and dry-fired

OK, he really didn't but it sounded funny the first time we heard it:wink:


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## kkromer (Sep 14, 2004)

jeano33 said:


> So what’s up? I cannot get fixed blades broad heads to fly well on my 2008 PSE X Force HF. Mechanicals fly spot on. The bow is tuned very well. It shoots bullet holes through paper. Cams are timed perfectly. Tillers are exact. I have tried Thunderheads…Strikers ..NAP and muzzy. I know that some of you will say just shoot the mechanicals but if you can’t tell Id rather shoot fixed blades. All my fixed blades fly 3 inches high and 2 left at 20 yards and it gets worse the further out you get. Perhaps it’s the release? But why do the mechs fly so well Ideas???


I don't think it's the release. Try raising your nock point or lowering your rest. You should get the up and down out that way. If the broadhead arrow is still hitting to the left, move your rest very slightly to the right. If you see improvement keep moving till the improvement stops, or both arrows are hitting the same POI. If you don't see improvement on the first move, put the rest back in the original position, or the position where improvement stopped, and try putting one half twist on the right leg of your split yoke and letting one half twist out of the left leg. Always work in 1/2 twists vs. full. Usually within a couple of twists the cams are sitting where they want to sit to deliver a broadhead to the same spot as field points. If it get's worse as you twist, try the other direction. What it amounts to is string osscillation from the cams leaning just a little. My experience has been when you do get the broadheads and field points hitting the same spot the bow will just shoot so totally forgiving...

As far as mechanicals flying so well - they always do, much less surface area to steer the front of the arrow.


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## thunderbolt (Oct 11, 2002)

kkromer said:


> I don't think it's the release. Try raising your nock point or lowering your rest. You should get the up and down out that way. If the broadhead arrow is still hitting to the left, move your rest very slightly to the right. If you see improvement keep moving till the improvement stops, or both arrows are hitting the same POI. If you don't see improvement on the first move, put the rest back in the original position, or the position where improvement stopped, and try putting one half twist on the right leg of your split yoke and letting one half twist out of the left leg. Always work in 1/2 twists vs. full. Usually within a couple of twists the cams are sitting where they want to sit to deliver a broadhead to the same spot as field points. If it get's worse as you twist, try the other direction. What it amounts to is string osscillation from the cams leaning just a little. My experience has been when you do get the broadheads and field points hitting the same spot the bow will just shoot so totally forgiving...
> 
> As far as mechanicals flying so well - they always do, much less surface area to steer the front of the arrow.


Excellent post! Take care of the vertical problem first like was said above and a lot of times the horizontal problems go away at the same time.


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## hotwheels (Dec 5, 2006)

*tunning methods*

Follow eastons tunning guide
forget paper its very basic

For Hunting
Do bare shaft to 10 to 20 yards
Switch to BH tunning

For Target
Bare shaft to 10 to 20 yards
Insted of BH tunning switch to Walk back and then group tune at distance

And yes, this sometimes takes me months of dicking around with itI'm glad i'm not the only one

Tink


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## kkromer (Sep 14, 2004)

hotwheels said:


> Follow eastons tunning guide
> forget paper its very basic
> 
> For Hunting
> ...


I agree 100%. But the Easton tuning guide assumes that the bow is producing little if any horizontal string osscilation. That's where twisting the legs of the yoke come into play with a bow that won't tune with Easton's traditional methods. Sometimes may even have to re-shim cams, but that's pretty drastic.


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## Macker (Mar 22, 2007)

kkromer said:


> I agree 100%. But the Easton tuning guide assumes that the bow is producing little if any horizontal string osscilation. That's where twisting the legs of the yoke come into play with a bow that won't tune with Easton's traditional methods. Sometimes may even have to re-shim cams, but that's pretty drastic.


i have an x force gx6 and would like to know what to do with the split cable for different paper tears, or right and left misses. would you mind a little more detail?


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## BHATV (Mar 24, 2010)

idk


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## LFM (Jan 10, 2004)

Sounds like you are shooting an underspined arrow might step up to the next heavier spine and buy 3 to try and see if it corrects this. I had a similar issue a few years back a shop some me some underspine carbons I wanted to get into shooting carbons and they would not come close to my fp's I returned to my aluminum arrows and they were grouping the same fp's & bh's(fixed type). I since bought heavier spined carbons and also some FMJ's and go with a heavier spine than most shops want to sell me and have not had this issue return.

Might be something to try, moving your rest might never correct this.

Good Luck,
LFM


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## kkromer (Sep 14, 2004)

Macker said:


> i have an x force gx6 and would like to know what to do with the split cable for different paper tears, or right and left misses. would you mind a little more detail?


I will usually start with paper get a good tear and don't go back to it. I would guess that it could be a spine issue as was mentioned in another post. If the arrow is right you could work the paper and twist the legs of the yoke to see if you can get a better tear. Almost all of todays cam systems are designed to be shot with a little bit of lean in them at rest, so I wouldn't go to crazy and try to completely straighten the cams. Just 1/2 twist in each side at a time. If you're right handed you usually want to start by shortening the right leg of the yoke 1/2 twist and lengthen the left leg 1/2 twist. Usually after just a couple of twists it will help get your arrow flying better. Again, bare shaft and paper is just a start. I will group tune from here at the furthest distance I shoot that bow and arrow combination in a given tournament. When it shoots nice round groups behind the pin I call it done.


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## Macker (Mar 22, 2007)

kkromer said:


> I will usually start with paper get a good tear and don't go back to it. I would guess that it could be a spine issue as was mentioned in another post. If the arrow is right you could work the paper and twist the legs of the yoke to see if you can get a better tear. Almost all of todays cam systems are designed to be shot with a little bit of lean in them at rest, so I wouldn't go to crazy and try to completely straighten the cams. Just 1/2 twist in each side at a time. If you're right handed you usually want to start by shortening the right leg of the yoke 1/2 twist and lengthen the left leg 1/2 twist. Usually after just a couple of twists it will help get your arrow flying better. Again, bare shaft and paper is just a start. I will group tune from here at the furthest distance I shoot that bow and arrow combination in a given tournament. When it shoots nice round groups behind the pin I call it done.


thanks for the help.


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