# tuning the Bow Tech prodigy



## Simpleiowaguy (Jan 10, 2011)

I've always tuned my bows for no lean at full draw...


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## fletched (May 10, 2006)

Since you went from Mathews to bowtech, it may take you a little shooting to get adjusted to the different feel. Just set it up close and shoot it for a bit then come back to tuning it. The different grips that both companies have can require some experimenting to find the proper grip.


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## nick060200 (Jul 5, 2010)

So are you saying the draw length on the bow is not on the right setting or is it on the right setting and its drawing long? since its off a half inch just move the mods one space lower. that will get you your 28.5". then check the ATA and brace height. if thats good, then set the center shot and nock height. 

get the cams timed, so they hit at the same time.
shoot thru paper and get your bullet hole or close. shoot a few bareshafts thru paper and see how they are tearing. try to get them to shoot bullets. if you get these to shoot bullets your real close to being perfect. then take it out to 20yds. fire 3 arrows and 3 bareshafts. yolk tune to move your bareshafts laterally and adjust your nock height to adjust the up/down of the bareshafts to get them to group with fletched. if your real close, and yolk tuning or moving your nock slightly does too much of a correction then use your rest to bring the arrows together. you will only need to move it a fuzz in any direction.

once barshafts and fletched hit together. your almost done. now shoot some broadheads and make sure they are grouping with field points. if your bareshafts are hitting the same as fletched you should be good or real close. i have had it where broadheads were dead on and also where i had to make a slight adjustment to the rest. to move broadheads you should not have to do any yolk tuning or nock adjustments, only slight adjustments to the rest. this is the main reason i like a micro tune rest, because a small change goes a long way. if you dont have micro tune just be aware of the amount you move the rest, try to move it half of what you think you should have to move it, other wise you could be chasing your tail at this point because your moving your rest too much.

this is how i did my experience and the results were fantastic.


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## rookiex1290 (Oct 29, 2014)

I moved it up one notch on the dial on draw board it's showing 26.25 that's 28 from the deep part of the groove of the grip to the string not the d loop. Thought that was a bit too short but figured I'd give it a try... timed the cams ata is good still have slight cam lean at full draw... went out first shot through paper bullet hole....Second bullet third bullet... couldn't believe it so bare shaft through paper slight left tare when I mean slight like half the width on a pink nail. Stopped at that point had to go buy a truck.


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## nick060200 (Jul 5, 2010)

I'd be done with paper at that point. Go shoot some bareshafts and fletched and see If they are grouping at 20yds


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## MR 28 (Jun 25, 2010)

Putting new Strings on a Prodigy and was curious about yolk tuning these bows as have only yolk tuned hoyts.

If I get a left tear and cam is like this \ at full draw, do I still twist the left yolk AND the bottom yolk (take equal out of the right)?

Won't this make the lean worse if already leaning left at full draw.

Do you always twist top and bottom the same?

I noticed when I twisted the left yolk and went to twist the bottom left, it seemed that to put twists in, it went the other way than the top left yolk. Is that normal? When I shot after that it was WAY off.

When I twist these yolks , does it affect the synch?

Do you hold the arrow against the top cam on the shelf side to measure pre-lean at brace?

Thanks so much. Going to start over tomorrow.


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## MR 28 (Jun 25, 2010)

I decided to start over with a new D loop and string and just can't seem to get the tune back. 

ATA measured on the non shelf side is a quarter inch long, is that the right side to measure it on and is that too much? 

Also the brace height is fine right at 7 and it is at 70 pounds. There is no cam lean at brace and as expected, I get a terrible left tear. When I twist the left yoke top and bottom and untwist the right yoke top and bottom I can't seem to get rid of it if I go too far there so much cam lean that the cable actually starts to bend at brace and hit the cam if let down the draw. So i out it back to no.lean and am at a loss where to go now.

What would you guys do to start over and what could be the problem? Thanks so much as I'm at my wits end.


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## dartonpro4000 (Oct 12, 2010)

You may read this. I am not much help without looking at the bow. Nuts and bolts is good usually a lot of help. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1118006&highlight=baldyhunter


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## lost american (Nov 21, 2002)

is your rest dead center? according to bow tech you twist the top and bottom yoke evenly. only one side do not untwist the other.
also is your timeing set perfect?


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