# Timing Cams for Nock Low Tear



## jwood10 (Aug 17, 2010)

So, ive got my left and right tears all squared away with yoke tuning, but I cannot get rid of the tail low tear. For me to shoot a bullet hole my nock is 1/2" above my rest. Ive messed with my bow all day and skipped hunting. Ive got my cables in the timing marks perfect, got the ATA perfect, draw length perfect, and on the Decree HD the top cam stop is on a slide so i put it hitting at the exact time my bottom cable stop is. So, I watched a video from Gold Tip and the dude said i can speed up the top cam, or slow down the bottom cam. How does one go about speeding up or slowing down a cam?


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

You have a PSE Decree HD. This is a hybrid cam bow. That means you have a bowstring, you have a buss cable, and you have a control cable.










The buss cable is the Y shaped cable, with the two yoke legs.
The control cable has only two end loops, and looks like a rope.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

PICK one cable (don't matter which one) and change the twists to fix the nock low tear.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Pick a direction, ADD or REMOVE and try 1/2 twist. If you don't see any change, then go back to the press and double the adjustment. If you tweaked the cable by 1/2 twist, now go the same direction and tweak the cable by a full twist. You have now changed twists by 1.5 twists, and you will definitely see a change in your paper tear. Either the nock low tear got WORSE, or the nock low tear got better. If you added twists in ONE cable, and the tear got worse, go back to the bow press and undo the twists, and go the other direction and REMOVE enough twists until the nock low tear is gone.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

For a Hybrid cam bow, like your PSE Decree....most humans on this planet get best results
when TOP cam hits the cable first, and you have a small gap between bottom cam and cable.



Top cam at full draw FIRST.



Bottom cam has a small gap between draw stop and cable.

But, I don't know how to do that. You press the bow and pick ONE cable and adjust the twists (add or remove)
until the bow looks like this on a draw board. BUT, I don't have a draw board. Fine. Then, just shoot arrows thru your paper tuner, or shoot a fletched arrow and a bareshaft arrow at a target 20 yards away.



Nock low paper tear means a bareshaft will hit HIGHER than the fletched arrow. Like this.
So, you pick one cable (don't matter which one you pick) and you work with that ONE cable and you figure out if adding or removing half twists will get you to this result.



Won't take much. Half twist makes a noticeable effect on height of arrow impact at 20 yards.
Might need half a twist adjustment in ONE cable, might need 1 full twist of adjustment in ONE cable. Go test drive tuning twists in ONE cable and see what happens.

Having a draw board speeds things up. No draw board? No problem. Just will spend more time on the shooting line and going back and forth to the bow press. You end up in the same place, just takes longer....with no draw board.


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## jwood10 (Aug 17, 2010)

nuts&bolts said:


> Pick a direction, ADD or REMOVE and try 1/2 twist. If you don't see any change, then go back to the press and double the adjustment. If you tweaked the cable by 1/2 twist, now go the same direction and tweak the cable by a full twist. You have now changed twists by 1.5 twists, and you will definitely see a change in your paper tear. Either the nock low tear got WORSE, or the nock low tear got better. If you added twists in ONE cable, and the tear got worse, go back to the bow press and undo the twists, and go the other direction and REMOVE enough twists until the nock low tear is gone.


Thanks, i was just reading an in depth post you wrote about 4 years ago on a similar thread. Ill get back at it tomorrow.


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## jwood10 (Aug 17, 2010)

Got everything squared away today. I needed to stop yesterday and recharge. I must've pressed the bow 50 times yesterday getting the timing down according to the cam marks, getting the ATA perfect, I had to swap the bottom limbs because they weren't in the correct configuration, i got my draw length perfect, and got my cable stop to hit as it missed before and then i was stuck at full draw and couldnt let it down. So, today i went in fresh took the tuning tip from Tim Gillingham (gold tip youtube channel) as well as nuts and bolts in-depth response, and used common sense as how to speed up or slow down a cam. Took me about 10 shots to get it fixed, but after the third shot i was getting really picky. Having a bowpress now makes bowlife so mich easier.


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