# How To Make Your Own "arrow Squaring Device" (asd).



## sq246 (Nov 11, 2002)

O.K. call me cheap but I just can't see spending 40 bucks for an ASD (20 for the replacement heads) when the concept is so simple. Anybody have any ideas for a home-made ASD. I thought I might try using an arrow straightener or spin check jig to turn the arrows on while pushing the arrow or insert against a side of a 90 degree fixed piece of angle iron with some emory cloth glued on the side.

Anyone else have any ideas or use some other type of home-made squaring device they would be willing to share? Pics would really be nice.

Thanks, 

sq


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## Stash (Jun 1, 2002)

People will argue, but if you use a proper cut-off saw you don't need an ASD. Just rotate the arrow as you cut, and let it grind the ends for a few seconds as you rotate, and you won't have an issue.

ASD is necessary if you're using a chop-type saw.


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## michihunter (Mar 2, 2003)

sq246 said:


> O.K. call me cheap but I just can't see spending 40 bucks for an ASD (20 for the replacement heads) when the concept is so simple. Anybody have any ideas for a home-made ASD. I thought I might try using an arrow straightener or spin check jig to turn the arrows on while pushing the arrow or insert against a side of a 90 degree fixed piece of angle iron with some emory cloth glued on the side.
> 
> Anyone else have any ideas or use some other type of home-made squaring device they would be willing to share? Pics would really be nice.
> 
> ...


Ever price a cutting tool insert? Doubt you'll save too much money trying to build a handle and adding an insert that will be square. But if you do please post yuour results. I'm sure a lot of people would be interested.:wink:


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

Replacement heads  For what? :noidea: How many arrows do you build a year? Unless you are really swcrewing up the cut....you shouldn't need a new head for some time.


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## Canjapan2003 (Jun 3, 2006)

Stash said:


> People will argue, but if you use a proper cut-off saw you don't need an ASD. Just rotate the arrow as you cut, and let it grind the ends for a few seconds as you rotate, and you won't have an issue.
> 
> ASD is necessary if you're using a chop-type saw.


I agree with that in principle but with a long shaft and a weak arrow isn't it possible that you are flexing and unflexing it as you rotate it? With the apple saw my friend has thier is no support for for the arrow between the blade and the nock rest.


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## Zen Archery (Jul 27, 2004)

ive never found them necessary unless shootin internal insert such as axis arrows...


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## JDS-1 (Nov 15, 2007)

*I've tried*

I tried to make my own once. Didn't work out very well... You are better off just buying the ASD and being done with it.:embara: It will pay for itself in short time.:wink: Makes a huge difference in your arrows:tongue:


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## DKN (Dec 14, 2003)

Where can you get a replacement head for the ASD. The one I bought a couple years ago is small and x-cutters and 30x arrows are to big and I cant use it.


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## JOE PA (Dec 13, 2003)

*Try this.*

Not sure how much they cost anymore, as I've had mine for over 25 years. I use a Lee Case trimmer for a .243 Winchester. Trues up the end very nicely.


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## rkboz (Dec 22, 2006)

JOE PA said:


> Not sure how much they cost anymore, as I've had mine for over 25 years. I use a Lee Case trimmer for a .243 Winchester. Trues up the end very nicely.


Very good idea. Why didn't I think of that. I've been reloading for years but I bought an ASD two weeks ago. The case trimmer probably works better.


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## arrowshooters (Jun 5, 2006)

Here ya go:


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## sq246 (Nov 11, 2002)

*Oh come on you do-it -yourselfers, share your arrowinf squaring techniques hmade jigs*

ttt


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## Doc (Jun 10, 2003)

I have an ASD, but it's the official G5 ASD. It's worth every penny IMO...$40 well spent. I make up dozens of arrows each year (3D, indoors, hunting, friends) and I've never had to change the cutter yet. I wish I would have logged the number of arrows I have through it. If you do build one, are you going to set it up for aluminum and carbon? I like to use the aluminum to square my inserts for broadheads. I use an Apple arrow saw and still can improve the squareness of the end with this device. I know there are a lot of sharp inventors here on AT, so I'm curious to see what people have built.:beer:


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## Deezlin (Feb 5, 2004)

Stash said:


> People will argue, but if you use a proper cut-off saw you don't need an ASD. Just rotate the arrow as you cut, and let it grind the ends for a few seconds as you rotate, and you won't have an issue.
> 
> ASD is necessary if you're using a chop-type saw.


I agree.



Canjapan2003 said:


> I agree with that in principle but with a long shaft and a weak arrow isn't it possible that you are flexing and unflexing it as you rotate it? With the apple saw my friend has thier is no support for for the arrow between the blade and the nock rest.


I have an apple cut-off saw and it has a shelf right at the blade. You set the shelf just so the wheel penetrates one side of the shaft. I barely have to push on the side of the arrow to cut through, there is no deflection of the shaft while it is being rotate. Your buddies saw must be missing some parts.


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## Pa. Patriot (Oct 8, 2007)

I cut my arrows on a lathe. Doesn't get more square than that  :darkbeer:


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

I have an old small table-saw in the basement, with the rip fence and cross-cut guide (the one that runs in the slot). I clamp a 2' long x 3" wide board to that cross-cut guide, set at 90 degrees to the rip fence. The board has a groove/dado running the lenth of it for the arrow to lay in. Up against the rip fence I put a piece of fine grit sandpaper. Just spin the arrow up against it. This makes a nice square "T", seems to work just fine.


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## BTM (Dec 31, 2002)

I use the same 2x4 with the four crossed nails that I use to test for broadhead trueness. (I'm too cheap to buy one of those gizmos, too!) I just place a file upright against the end of the 2x4 and rotate the arrow end against it.


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## GreggWNY (Sep 6, 2002)

Here is what I use. It is pretty self explanatory.

I use 3 blocks of 2 X 4's clamped together with bolts.

I drill a hole the same size as my shaft thru the first 2 blocks. Use a drill press to keep at 90 degrees. Drill the hole so the shaft fits in snugly.

I insert 80 grit sand paper between the top two drilled pieces and the undrilled last piece.

Insert arrow shaft, press down and rotate it until the end is sanded square.

There are two holes in this one to accommodate my small and large diameter shafts.

Works like a charm. Move the sand paper around periodically to keep it fresh.

Total cost was under 3 dollars.


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## sq246 (Nov 11, 2002)

that's what I'm talking 'bout...anyone else?


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## KEN-813 (Jun 26, 2002)

GreggWNY said:


> .



I agree with Stash, if you use a good arrow saw and take your time a $40 tool is not really needed.

But I do like your idea Gregg :darkbeer:


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## bradlemieux7331 (Mar 27, 2006)

*This is what I did!*



Stash said:


> People will argue, but if you use a proper cut-off saw you don't need an ASD. Just rotate the arrow as you cut, and let it grind the ends for a few seconds as you rotate, and you won't have an issue.
> 
> ASD is necessary if you're using a chop-type saw.


I made a new holder spinning is the key.


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## -bowfreak- (Oct 18, 2006)

GreggWNY said:


> Here is what I use. It is pretty self explanatory.
> 
> I use 3 blocks of 2 X 4's clamped together with bolts.
> 
> ...


Gregg,

I have the G5 ASD and I honestly like this better. Great idea. I am going to make one of these also.


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## slsspark (Aug 16, 2008)

GreggWNY said:


> Here is what I use. It is pretty self explanatory.
> 
> I use 3 blocks of 2 X 4's clamped together with bolts.
> 
> ...


I did the same thing but I used a diamond hone It is a credit card sized and I am using the extra course (150 grit) it works great and will last for ever!!!
http://www.eze-lap.com/product/creditcard.htm


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## slsspark (Aug 16, 2008)

GreggWNY said:


> Here is what I use. It is pretty self explanatory.
> 
> I use 3 blocks of 2 X 4's clamped together with bolts.
> 
> ...


I did the same thing but I used a diamond hone It is a credit card sized and I am using the extra course (150 grit) it works great and will last for ever!!!
http://www.eze-lap.com/product/creditcard.htm

I also use a silver sharpie on the end of the shaft to let me know when it is perfectly true.


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## BayouBob (Apr 9, 2007)

Here is the one I made. It cost about $3.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?p=7270612#post7270612


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## slsspark (Aug 16, 2008)

BayouBob said:


> Here is the one I made. It cost about $3.
> 
> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?p=7270612#post7270612


The only problem that I see is that if the insert was installed in the arrow shaft with any "wobble" you are just truing it up with the insert not the shaft and the other ideas fix it based on the shaft. I do like your idea to fix the end of an insert that has gotten banged up though.


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## BayouBob (Apr 9, 2007)

The insert in the picture is part of the tool. It is super glued to the cutting wheel and the target point is screwed into the insert to use as a handle. You have to drill out the cutting wheel from the 1/8" hole it comes with to 1/4". You have to use an insert made for the shaft you are squaring and it goes inside the shaft to hold the tool square while you turn it.


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## BayouBob (Apr 9, 2007)

Oops. I see where I confused the issue. It is too far from my brain to my fingers for the thoughts to get typed clearly. (Of course it's too short a distance from my brain to my mouth and stuff gets said before my brain can shut me up!) The cutting wheel is drilled out to the size of the insert and the insert is glued to the cutter. I said the point is glued to the cutting wheel which wouldn't work. You drill the cutting wheel to the diameter of the insert, screw the point into the insert to use as a handle then put some super glue under the rim of the insert. Push the insert through the cutting wheel using the point until the insert makes solid contact with the cutting wheel. When the glue dries you push the insert into the shaft as a guide and by turning the tool using the point as a handle you will square the shaft.


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## tmolina (Nov 20, 2005)

*ttt*



BayouBob said:


> Oops. I see where I confused the issue. It is too far from my brain to my fingers for the thoughts to get typed clearly. (Of course it's too short a distance from my brain to my mouth and stuff gets said before my brain can shut me up!) The cutting wheel is drilled out to the size of the insert and the insert is glued to the cutter. I said the point is glued to the cutting wheel which wouldn't work. You drill the cutting wheel to the diameter of the insert, screw the point into the insert to use as a handle then put some super glue under the rim of the insert. Push the insert through the cutting wheel using the point until the insert makes solid contact with the cutting wheel. When the glue dries you push the insert into the shaft as a guide and by turning the tool using the point as a handle you will square the shaft.



Any chance you can post a video of your squaring tool in use?


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## Black Stallion (Sep 27, 2007)

Stash said:


> People will argue, but if you use a proper cut-off saw you don't need an ASD. Just rotate the arrow as you cut, and let it grind the ends for a few seconds as you rotate, and you won't have an issue.
> 
> ASD is necessary if you're using a chop-type saw.


I have been using this same technique too. Don't really need the ASD. After all, I only build about 4-5 dozens, in a year!


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## 6bloodychunks (Oct 26, 2005)

mine is mostly like the insert one above but i use a nock , heres a quick vid.


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## Hoser16 (Jan 6, 2009)

case trimmer is the ticket


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## Cariss (Oct 16, 2006)

I agree that the case trimmer is a good idea for squaring up the shafts but I like to square the inserts also after they are glued in. Thats the reason that I bought the G5 ASD.:darkbeer:


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## SERBIANSHARK (Nov 15, 2006)

LOL....You guys are cheap:boink:


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## NOYDB (Sep 3, 2007)

For those that have a G5. 

Visit the cosmetics section at Wallyworld. In the nail care section they have safire files for $1. They are the exact size to fit in front of the carbon side of the G5. They present a larger polishing area and you can do shafts and inserts. If you do manage to wear out both sides of the full length of the file. Toss it and use another, $1 well spent.

They also make a good grinding surface for whatever jig you make.


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## fxdwgkd (Oct 6, 2009)

I cut mine with a die grinder. Then I used a fine file to get them square. I use a square and bubble level to check. Never had a problem doing it this way, yet.


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