# $1 Stabilizer and material in basement



## greaser4252 (Dec 4, 2008)

*stabilizer?*

Come on, you can,t be serious man.:darkbeer:


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## ANGEL (Jun 6, 2009)

greaser4252 said:


> Come on, you can,t be serious man.:darkbeer:


Come on. Give they guy(girl) a break. This person took time to make the stab in the first place, and then took the time to take pics and post. Surely this person is serious. Lets not be mean. 

As for the question at hand... you can stuff it completly with foam, or cotton works also. A idea for the end is the little caps you can buy for chairs and stools. Lowes carries them in black for 2-3 bucks.


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

I do have the Fuse Injector, and did not notice any difference with or without it. I'm new to Archery and can't buy everything to tryout. 

I think the bow itself is a very stable bow to begin with, only notice a small shock after release even with the Fuse. I've also tried a Easton stabilizer 24" and did not notice any difference. Since I'm new to this I figure it must be me.

This is a DIY section right ? and I saw other who posted used 3/4" copper tubing. I figure why not have fun with it and share ideas. Long stabilizers are just a long rod of different material to help balance the bow or what ever you want to balance.


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## whitetailboy (Nov 19, 2008)

The stab is cool, but I love the bow, aren't they awesome???? Turbohawk right.


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## 3Dshooter68 (Apr 4, 2009)

Nothing wrong with your idea...maybe you could drill some holes in it to make it lighter. Would be nice to be able to paint it to give it some color too.


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

Whitetailboy,

Yes it's a TurboHawk, I waited a about a month for it. It's my first bow and love it. After ordering the bow first, I started read this forum to learn what get after I get the bow. I wanted your sight but the shop would need to order it. I did not want to wait for anything once the bow came it. I bought what he had in stock. He did have some very nice stuff but I figure I'll go low end and buy a better sight later if needed. That night I upgrade to a mid end sight because I did not like the pins on the first sight.

As for your 12" B-stinger stab, how you like it?


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

This project is work in progress, I only spend less than half an hour throwing it together. The hard part is to figure out what is the best configuration.

I will polish and paint it after it's all done to my liking. If not, I do have my eye on the B-Stinger.

Thanks to all those who like to tinker with ideas.


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## Twitch (Oct 14, 2007)

I would shrink wrap the stabilizer, probably hold up better than paint.


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## 32t (Apr 13, 2009)

*stabilizer*

Do you want a stabilizer and/or a shock absorber? For stabilization you want the weight at the end of the rod away from the bow. When you double the length of the rod you can use 1/3 the weight for the same effect. An object in motion is going to stay in motion but at rest it is going to resist your motion. [ Newton or somebody said that!] Your coupling has the weight at the wrong end. The reason the Bstinger is 12 inches is to stay within the bow hunter class restrictions. In my opinion by the time that you feel the shock the arrow is long gone. So that isn't going to effect your accuracy. I hope this post starts a good conversation so lets begin.

tim


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## ozbillb (Dec 27, 2008)

Top idea Gene1!
Get the bulk of the weight as far away from the bow as possible.
The other option for vibration control might just be something like a bowjax or 2 but that does defeat the point of DIY.
Also, if you're using that sliding weight bit of tube you could solder another rod coming off it at 90 degrees with a bit of weight on the end & rotate it until it balances any lean out of the bow as well.
Personally I like the industrial look so wouldn;t paint etc. it at all unless corrosion became an issue which it shouldn;t with copper.


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

At first the union was my quick disconnect, lol. It's still too many turns and the weight was heavier than I though. Union will be out. 

Drill holes will be a pain but can be done. I did that with my RC car many years ago to ligthen the alum tub chassis. 

I will have to go to my parents house for some old fishing rods in their basement. Fiberglass and Graphite rod blanks hope he still have the big rods and add weight on the ends.

Thanks for clearing up the 12" B-Stinger.

Most important question. should the bow tip forward with the weight after the shot or stay balance?


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## lovemylabs (Dec 13, 2008)

Gene1 said:


> At first the union was my quick disconnect, lol. It's still too many turns and the weight was heavier than I though. Union will be out.
> 
> Drill holes will be a pain but can be done. I did that with my RC car many years ago to ligthen the alum tub chassis.
> 
> ...


you could also visit your local thrift store for used golf clubs and use their shafts and use the rods for fishing :teeth: good lookin stab btw


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## bownarra (Aug 31, 2008)

Gene1 said:


> Most important question. should the bow tip forward with the weight after the shot or stay balance?


It's normal for it to tip forward. 

Basically your stabilizer does 2 different jobs:
1. While you're aiming it'll make your bow movements more 'sluggish', the bow doesn't twitch and dance around so much so it's easier to keep your pin on the target.
2. At the moment of the shot it'll help to reduce the effects of torquing the grip (twisting the bow suddenly to the left or right as your hand pressure on the grip changes). If the bow twists sideways before the arrow has left the string it'll affect your accuracy big time.

For both these jobs it should be very stiff and light, with all its weight as far forward as possible. 

Some stabilizers are designed to help to soak up some shock after the shot but that's really a comfort thing, it won't affect where the arrow went.


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## sawtoothscream (Apr 19, 2008)

nice i like to build stabilizers when i get board. i made my little brother 10" one and really like how it turned out. i also made a 26" target stab and decided i like short stabs better so i made it into a 14" stab and gave it to my dad.


my bow uses posten stabs i spent alot on my bow and want it to look good in the process. plus postens work better than mine do.


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## wsbark01 (Feb 26, 2009)

Here is a home made b stinger I made with 4 pieces of carbon arrows about 6 1/2 in long glued into 2 empty shotgun shells with a 5/16-24 bolt on each end. The weight is from a local metal shop. Total cost about $1.00.


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

*Round 2*

Just an update, removed union and used the 3/8" copper piping. Polished the 3/8" piping but did not finalize the tip weight. 

I know the physics behind the long rod, but my problem when testing with or without the rod I get almost the same results @ 55ft. When grouped it's both in the 4" dia. range. ( I know it's not a great group, I'm just starting out) I guess my weight distubition needs more trail and error. I guess round 3 will be to drill out the 3/8 shaft to shift the weight more to the front.

Even my target is sort of DIY. I printed it myself.

Nice custom made B-Stinger. What was your weight at the tip?


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## starving archer (Jul 9, 2007)

i love the look of copper i would polish it up good and put a clear coat on it shinny as can be 
what if you filled it with rubber bb's maby some of the air soft pellets wont add much weight and should dampen some of the vibration just a thought i can't say for sure


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## Puttin em' Down (Aug 8, 2008)

Alright, now I get it. Go out and buy a $1000.00 setup and put a piece ot copper pipe for the stabilizer. Makes perfect scents to me!?!ukey:


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## LiteSpeed1 (May 21, 2005)

Puttin em' Down said:


> Alright, now I get it. Go out and buy a $1000.00 setup and put a piece *ot* copper pipe for the stabilizer. Makes perfect *scents* to me!?!ukey:


When you're slamming someone for their DIY abilities, it's probably best to make sure your grammar and spelling is correct.


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## Jammer3 (Aug 18, 2009)

Your latest version is looking good. I like the polished look. A little clear spray lacquer will help keep the shine on it.

John
Gator Jaw Archery Release - Simply the Best!


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## Dead Center (Dec 24, 2006)

One thing you can do is go to a store that handles heatshrink. A good hardware store should have some. 
Find some that will just fit over the tubing then shrink it down to fit tight on your stabilizer. This will rubber coat it and also help with sound and vibration dampening. If the heatshrink has writing on it you can clean it off with very little acetone on a rag.
This will also give it a flat black rubberized look. If you do this take some pics and let us see it.


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## indeeptreble (Apr 25, 2009)

*Stabilizer*

Cool look, have you guys ever seen a dead blow ball peen hammer or a no bounce hammer mine are snapon I use them all the time I broke one end off one time and it was full off lead shot. if you almost fill a small section of pipe and solder it to the end of you copper pipe it may add weight and dampen it at the same time may need to experiment on were to place it.


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

I guess those who don't have a mind to think things out and or fabricate things, have to put other people down.

It's not just about the money. It's all about tinkering with stuff or make modifications and have FUN with it. My hourly rate is worth more than to just buy the stabilizer. It's all about what you want to do.

My next ver to drill out the shaft is going to get a little harder to make it look clean. That will have to wait for 2weeks until I get back from my vacation.


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## indeeptreble (Apr 25, 2009)

*Stabilizer*

Oh Ya forgot to mention I made my own stabilizer using an old brass punch drilled a hole in the end a tapped it then used the lathe to put a cool finish on it I put black tape on it when i go hunting.


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## starving archer (Jul 9, 2007)

Puttin em' Down said:


> Alright, now I get it. Go out and buy a $1000.00 setup and put a piece ot copper pipe for the stabilizer. Makes perfect scents to me!?!ukey:


didn't you mother tell you if you don't have anything nice to say keep your mouth shut 
just a thought


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## Race59 (Dec 7, 2008)

Gene1 said:


> I guess those who don't have a mind to think things out and or fabricate things, have to put other people down.
> 
> It's not just about the money. It's all about tinkering with stuff or make modifications and have FUN with it. My hourly rate is worth more than to just buy the stabilizer. It's all about what you want to do.
> 
> My next ver to drill out the shaft is going to get a little harder to make it look clean. That will have to wait for 2weeks until I get back from my vacation.


Don't let the naysayers dissuade you. The satisfaction of of designing and building your own equipment is always worthwhile. Like you say, it's all about having FUN!!! Some people apparently just don't get that.

In addition to the opportunity to exchange ideas one of the main reasons I like the DIY forum is that it doesn't seem to have the negativity of some of the other boards, hopefully we can keep it that way.

If you see something on here you are not impressed with, how hard is it just to move on without leaving a negative comment?

You have a great vacation and have FUN!!!. Life's just too short not to.


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## AdvanTimberLou (Aug 8, 2005)

*Let's put it this way guys, if you want to insult guys ideas, then don't be surprised when you get warnings/infractions from moderators.

If you can't say anything positive or add advice, then clearly......STAY OUT OF THIS GUYS THREAD!

Lou
AT Moderator*

*BTW: I like creativeness, without it, we have nothing! Best of luck with your idea and its ideas like yours that fuel other ideas!*


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## wsbark01 (Feb 26, 2009)

AdvanTimberLou said:


> *BTW: I like creativeness, without it, we have nothing! Best of luck with your idea and its ideas like yours that fuel other ideas!*


If it wasn't for guys tinkering around we wouldn't have half the archery items we have today!!!!!


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Gene1 said:


> Just an update, removed union and used the 3/8" copper piping. Polished the 3/8" piping but did not finalize the tip weight.
> 
> I know the physics behind the long rod, but my problem when testing with or without the rod I get almost the same results @ 55ft. When grouped it's both in the 4" dia. range. ( I know it's not a great group, I'm just starting out) I guess my weight distubition needs more trail and error. I guess round 3 will be to drill out the 3/8 shaft to shift the weight more to the front.
> 
> ...



Hello Gene1:

Excellent work.

I would take the cap off the end,
and figure a way to stuff in a 1/4-inch threaded rod/stud
or 5/16ths threaded rod/stud.

Just take a bolt and cut off the head.

You could take a wooden dowel, and then epoxy into the end of the copper tube.


Now,
you have a way to put fender washers on the end of your stabilizer.

Try a 1-inch long stack of fender washers to start.

Then,
remove 1 washer at a time,
and see if your groups tighten up or get worse.

Either continue removing 1 fender washer at a time
or
continue adding 1 fender washer at a time.

I have spent hundreds of hours experimenting with front to rear weight balance,
and you will be amazed,
when you find YOUR sweet spot for the correct amount of end weight.

When you find YOUR sweet spot for the end weights,
then just 1 more fender washer
or
just 1 less fender washer

makes a HUGE difference :becky:.

Keep going.

You are on the right track.


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## Baz59 (Feb 17, 2003)

cant help but laugh when i see it. If it works it works!


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## JPiniewski (Dec 7, 2002)

*Nice...*

I made one of these before but my wife got made when the water stopped working.:tongue::tongue::tongue:

:thumbs_up - Very cool idea...I love to see things other minds like mine come up with. 

--JP


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## Firenock (Nov 5, 2006)

*I like that...*

Very nice. It is work in progress.. just be careful when you get it perfect... Next thing you know you will have to make a tons of them and NOT MAKE ANY MONEY for others... I am talking from experience.. Just keep it fun. I am still making something fun myself on the side... Just cannot help myself. LOL

Do not let anyone tell you that it is a waste of time. They do not know you and they sure do not know what FUN means to you.

keep at it, you are on the right track and YES, I like that copper look. It gives that extra " I BUILT IT AND IT IS MINE" look.


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## bagel77 (Feb 1, 2008)

love the idea.....been thinking about my own...keep the ideas coming


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## bjanzen (Dec 20, 2008)

Very good idea.....simple and probalby will work well. Just love tinkering myself too. Keep it up....sometimes the most simple things are the best.


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## desmobob (Dec 22, 2002)

LiteSpeed1 said:


> When you're slamming someone for their DIY abilities, it's probably best to make sure your grammar and spelling _*is *_correct.



"are" ? 



I did the same thing when I got my first compound bow. It's fun to mess around with stabilizers... the parts are easy to fabricate and it gives you an excuse to shoot a ton of arrows at the target.

For dampening, there are lighter choices than sand, but the heavier the material, the better it works. An alternative is to isolate the whole unit, or just the section with the weight, with some rubber or NAVCOM material. I found one of those really short Doinker-type in-line dampeners (threaded stud on one end and threaded hole in the other) on clearance at one of the 'Marts one time for a few bucks. It works well.

By the way... have you ever seen a Nash custom Harley? He gets paid big bucks to take expensive, flashy motorcycles and give them a flat, hard, industrial look.


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## LiteSpeed1 (May 21, 2005)

desmobob said:


> "are" ?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I had "are" first, then edited it to "is". You were the first one to catch that. Well, the first one to say anything.


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## Big D UpNorth (May 24, 2007)

Lokking better. You could try to find some print shops in your area to find some vinal with adhesive for a partial wrap. Maybe cut flame shapes or if you have named your bow that would work. I think it would look cool to drill some holes loke the Postens. For filler you could try some rubber fishing worms, sand in a chambered section, silocone caulk, expandable foam. How cool would it look to put a showerhead on the end painted to match, I am serious not poking fun I am not one of those jerks. 

It says alot more when you have the creativity to dream and make your own, not just go down to the shop and buy your own. 

NICE WORK!


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## FORESTGUMP (May 14, 2008)

*Stabilizer!*

Man you really got action when you get defended by AdvanTimberLou and Nuts&bolts! 
If you go buy a Posten stab it will cost you some big bucks.But, I would bet that the first one he made looked a lot like yours. Looks like you got a good idea going there. Some people can't think of anything to build themselves so they make negative comments instead of contributing to the DIY.


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## soulless (May 22, 2009)

cool.. almost look like what i made too


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## bilongo (Nov 18, 2008)

*Shifter knob*

check this out :darkbeer:


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## snipersam24 (Sep 3, 2008)

wsbark, whats on the end of ur shotgun shell stabilizer? that round black thing?:uzi::cow:




wsbark01 said:


> Here is a home made b stinger I made with 4 pieces of carbon arrows about 6 1/2 in long glued into 2 empty shotgun shells with a 5/16-24 bolt on each end. The weight is from a local metal shop. Total cost about $1.00.


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## dhunterurbs2 (Jun 24, 2009)

*Diy*

Gene1 
Good work, I too love to tinker and find different ways to customize my bow, I have heard from many people that archery is about 100% about you and how you like it how you feel using what you made and such. I found a piece off an exercise machine that is an excelent stablizer, I will post some pictures in a bit but you know these dorks who buy a full set up and sit above a food plot have no real idea what hunting or archery is. It is a personal thing that you have to enjoy so rock on and keep messing with it youll perfect it soon enough. 
Thanks.


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## WIbow (Nov 10, 2004)

soulless said:


> cool.. almost look like what i made too


nice packers colored string!:wink:


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## konrad (Mar 29, 2009)

*A Fine Job!*

I like it! Some primer and then some flat black and you really are in business!

The B-Stinger company has the right idea about keeping the weight as far away from the grip as possible. I see Doinker is using the same principle as this year with their DISH stabilizer. Lead shot would work too.

My wife says I’m a tweaker (I think that’s a good thing).

Free is always in my budget.


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

Guys, thanks for the support. 

Just got back from vacation and I see a few more copper pipe stabs lol.

Before I left, I weighted the pipe and I figure I will need to lighten that by drilling holes in the pipe and move the weight up front. Hope to get back on this soon.


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## perfect shot (Mar 18, 2008)

i just have to say if it wasn't for people to tinker and come up with new ideas in the garage or basements we would still be living in the cave man era. wonder what people said to fred bear when he came up with the compound bow


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

This is taking longer than expected and some opps . Drill bit walked 3 times.

Drilled 50X -1/4" in the 3/8" copper shaft to get 100 holes. 

The shaft was 5.3oz without tip & weight, it is now down to 4.0oz. The shear / canterlevel weight was from 2lb 11oz down to 1lb 14oz from only taking off 1.3oz. 

I guess I should start the trail and error with the weights on the tip.

At first this was to be fun, now it's getting to be like a job to finish it.


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

*Update*

At the last step, the weight (3/4" copper filled 80% with sand) was good and OK damping with the shaft shoved in to the end weight with a rubber groment. I wanted to make the end weight more permanent so I solder it. I knew if I soldered the end to the shaft would screw it up but I want to make sure. YEP now the end weights vibrates at the after the shot. 

Groups nice but has vibrations now . I guess I will get some bowjacks before I paint it wrinkle black paint.


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## fat kid (Sep 17, 2009)

gene1 cool stab diy is the only way to go. everything was a diy at some point in time.


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## alaz (Mar 8, 2009)

I just found this thread. Your final product came out sharp.
Thanks for sharing and way to stick to it!:darkbeer:


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## Archer Mike (Sep 26, 2009)

*Cool idea*

Gene, the vibration may be due to the holes and/or length. Both would affect the rigidity of the stabilizer. It may work if you replace the tube with a hole-less one. 

In any case, it inspired me to try it myself. I may try using larger diameter tubing for greater rigidity. Thin wall hydraulics tubing may be another option since steel is more stiff than copper. 

I'll let you know if I have any success.


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## Archer Mike (Sep 26, 2009)

*12" restriction question*



32t said:


> Do you want a stabilizer and/or a shock absorber? For stabilization you want the weight at the end of the rod away from the bow. When you double the length of the rod you can use 1/3 the weight for the same effect. An object in motion is going to stay in motion but at rest it is going to resist your motion. [ Newton or somebody said that!] Your coupling has the weight at the wrong end. The reason the Bstinger is 12 inches is to stay within the bow hunter class restrictions. In my opinion by the time that you feel the shock the arrow is long gone. So that isn't going to effect your accuracy. I hope this post starts a good conversation so lets begin.
> 
> tim


Tim, Does your comment mean that it is illegal to hunt with a stabilizer longer than 12"? Please excuse my ignorance. Thanks.


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

I wanted to reduce the weight by drilling the holes and it did make it look nice. But the final product was not to my liking and have not used it or tried to correct it yet. Been busy the past few weeks.

I've been shooting with out a stabilizer with very good results. To me the Turbohawk is balanced. When I added the stabilizer made it heavier but not sure if it really helped. I know the theory that the stabilizer will help. I just did not find the correct length and weight ratio yet. 

I did find a old piece of fiberglass rod from a fishing rod at my parents house the other day which I think may do the trick. 

I will post once I get that project started.

Thanks for the comments.


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

Archer Mike,

Are you shooting without a stabilizer and how does it feel to you?

At the range today, I shot out the white spot on my blue target 
(White center) w/o a stabilizer . Ok I did have a few holes a few rings out.

I will tinker again at making another stabilizer and have FUN with it and hopefully it will help keep all my arrows in the white spot.


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## ronmac13 (Apr 5, 2009)

i like the way it looks with the holes drilled. Awsome job.


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## Archer Mike (Sep 26, 2009)

Gene1 said:


> Archer Mike,
> 
> Are you shooting without a stabilizer and how does it feel to you?
> 
> ...


Gene,

All I have right now is the small, cheap stabilizer from my old bow. It is just a small sand filled tube about 6" long. I have never used a proper stabilizer set up, so I have nothing to compare it to.

My plan is, today I am going to order 2' of thin wall stainless hydraulic tubing. I'll make some threaded ends and solder them on. It will basically be just an extension tube. On the far end I'll install the cheap, sand filled stabilizer and maybe get a boxjax of something to go on the end. I'll forward some pics, if it works out.

The bow is excellent. I have a problem with my arrow rest that I need to fix, so I'm not getting great results yet. Last week when I purchased it, we did some shooting at the range where I bought it. I was using some arrows I had with damaged vanes since I was having problems with the rest. The first two rounds I ever shot with the bow grouped the size of a silver dollar at ten yards, with damaged vanes no less. May not be too impressive for the seasoned archer, but I was impressed. Very smooth shooting.


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

Mike,

Looking forward to see pics and results from your project. 
What will the dia be on your tubing?


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## Archer Mike (Sep 26, 2009)

I am ordering 3/4" stainless tubing. Unlike the copper, 3/4 hydraulic tubing is actually has a 3/4" outer diameter. I thought I would make it 2' long to start.

It may be a week or two before I actually get to make it. I'll let you know.


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## Trilithon (Sep 10, 2009)

If you don't mind me asking, how do you layout and drill the holes so accurately?


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

I used painter's blue tape to cover the pipe and a ruler to mark the tape. I used a drill press with a special bit to make drilling on a curve surface.

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100137


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## dustoffer (Jan 24, 2009)

A friend gave me a box of archery odds 'n ends, which included a solid metal stablilizer about 5-6" long, with a black crinkle-painted finish. I wanted a longer stabilizer, so I found some 1/2" aluminum rod, cut it to length (about 12"), drilled and tapped it, put a bolt in the back end and screwed the stabilizer in the front. Heavy, but weight is forward and it definitely adds some stability.

On the polished copper tubing--what about 'jeweling' it like they do with bolts on rifles--cover with the clear finish.


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## Trilithon (Sep 10, 2009)

Gene1 said:


> I used painter's blue tape to cover the pipe and a ruler to mark the tape. I used a drill press with a special bit to make drilling on a curve surface.
> 
> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100137


Thanks for the information.


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

Trilithon,

No problem. We are here to help each other out and to learn new ideas.


dustoffer,

You learn something new everyday. I never knew what that process was called. Thanks for word jeweling and google. Once I get it balance and vibration free to my liking. I might just do that.


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## dustoffer (Jan 24, 2009)

Gene1--You are quite welcome. If you do decide to do the jewelling, you can get the special "tool" from Brownell's (google them). It is sort of like a long pencil lead with abrasive embedded in it. Chuck it in a drill press, index the item to be jewelled as you did when drilling holes, and have at it. Might also be able to do it with pencils by dipping the eraser in automotive valve grinding compound--

Here are some examples--also called "engine turning"

http://images.google.com/imgres?img...ox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&sa=X&um=1


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## Trilithon (Sep 10, 2009)

Gene1 said:


> Trilithon,
> 
> No problem. We are here to help each other out and to learn new ideas.


I was thinking of laying out the pattern in VISIO or another program, printing it off, cutting to size and then using some low tack 3m spray to put it on the pipe.

Since I will only be making 12" ones or so standard 8.5 x 11 paper should work.

If not the blue tape idea is next in line.

Thanks!


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## Chromie (Oct 7, 2009)

I like that one


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

Here is the finished product.

Stab weights 8.5oz and washers are .3oz each. Works great with one washer.


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## bigbuckdn (Sep 19, 2007)

Archer Mike said:


> Tim, Does your comment mean that it is illegal to hunt with a stabilizer longer than 12"? Please excuse my ignorance. Thanks.


no for comp. shooting there are diff classes 

gene awsome job


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## chunks7mm (Dec 5, 2009)

loved the copper look,but A+ for ingenuity!


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## Nichko (Mar 24, 2008)

I like the copper idea...Go buy some shrink tubing on a roll slip it over and shrink er down, it will help dead in any noise or vibration, cool thing is it's flat black! 

Great idea, thanks for sharing!:wink:


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## jim p (Oct 29, 2003)

The great thing about making your zero cost stab. is that if you decide that you want one shorter, longer, heavier, or lighter. You can make it for practically nothing. This allows you to experiment and find out what you like in a stab and you get to see what the stabs. do for your shooting and for dampening vibration in your bow and many more things than can only be determined by experimentation. If you want to try out 10 different stabs that you make no big deal but if you go out and buy 10 stabs. for full price now that is a big deal.

Build everything that you can for your bow. It helps you to understand what the component is doing to help your shooting. 

If I had the material and knew how to build a set of limbs, I would be sanding, grinding and drilling away.


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## OOPS! (Jul 5, 2006)

Gene1 said:


> Here is the finished product.
> 
> Stab weights 8.5oz and washers are .3oz each. Works great with one washer.


That looks awesome! I love seeing the evolution from your first to final product, great job :darkbeer:


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## Cajun83 (Sep 30, 2009)

Gene1 said:


> Here is the finished product.
> 
> Stab weights 8.5oz and washers are .3oz each. Works great with one washer.


That is sick... I wish the guy that had the stupid crap to say would come in here and see the final product... can you say open mouth, insert foot... that thing looks awesome.

Nice job...


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## clemsontaco (Dec 16, 2008)

That's awesome man. I really like the look once you drilled the holes. If the paint starts to chip off you can check at ACE or Lowe's and there's a product for dipping like wrench handles and pliers that is rubberized it mike work well for this application. Since it's made to absorb vibration on the tools it should absorb some on the stab. Just something to think about. Congrats on a great build.


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

Thanks for your comments guys!

Great idea for the rubber dip.


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## Race59 (Dec 7, 2008)

Very nice job!!! Looks clean and professional.


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## SET THE HOOK (Dec 30, 2004)

that things crazy Awsome! you sir are a Craftsman!:wink: all the guys who made stupid comments ahh nevermind:zip:


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## Jekel (Oct 18, 2009)

Looks great. Good pics from start to finish..


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## Gunner7800 (Jul 11, 2007)

Nice looking stab, very smooth design. I'm curious, what you used on the end to hold the washers? Also, what paint did you use that adheres to copper?


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello
I love your quick disconnect. :thumbs_up

I have built scads of stabilizer,over the years being in archery.

Took a lot of heat also. from nay sayers and others.
If it works for you, and your bow. Thats all that matters. 

Appreciate you taking your time to share with us. Keep you ideas coming . [ Later, Signed by a Master Tinker :wink:


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

The washers are held in place by the screw in tip (adjustable table or chair leg). I used a 1/4" coupler and is cast in place with lead solder in the 3/4" pipe. A 1/4-20 nut would work it you some how tack it to the end cap, but then the 3/4" pipe and cap would be empty and I needed the weight at the tip. After that is cooled off I installed the end cap with a drilled out hole.



I had this can of paint around. It's a high temp engine paint. Make sure you clean your copper pipe and remove all oil or grease. Sanding the pipe gave it a little texture to grab the paint.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Gene1 said:


> The washers are held in place by the screw in tip (adjustable table or chair leg). I used a 1/4" coupler and is cast in place with lead solder in the 3/4" pipe. A 1/4-20 nut would work it you some how tack it to the end cap, but then the 3/4" pipe and cap would be empty and I needed the weight at the tip. After that is cooled off I installed the end cap with a drilled out hole.
> 
> 
> 
> I had this can of paint around. It's a high temp engine paint. Make sure you clean your copper pipe and remove all oil or grease. Sanding the pipe gave it a little texture to grab the paint.




Now that right there is useing the old bean. :wink:


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## OhioArcheryGirl (Dec 20, 2009)

Gene1,

I'm so greatful for this thread. I'm told that I need a stabilizer to improve my shooting, but really can't afford to put any more money into my bow. I'm gonna try to make one like you did. Thanks very much for sharing your idea.

I have a dumb question:
I just had a bow strap put on. Would I take off the bolt for the strap bracket nd screw the stabilizer in to hold the strap bracket instead of the bolt? 

Thanks again. Your latest version looks really great.


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## mw31 (Apr 23, 2007)

OhioArcheryGirl said:


> I have a dumb question:
> I just had a bow strap put on. Would I take off the bolt for the strap bracket nd screw the stabilizer in to hold the strap bracket instead of the bolt?


Not a dumb question at all. Yes you just replace the bolt with the stabilizer.


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## OhioArcheryGirl (Dec 20, 2009)

mw31 said:


> Not a dumb question at all. Yes you just replace the bolt with the stabilizer.


Thanks MW! :wave:


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## Cajun83 (Sep 30, 2009)

OhioArcheryGirl said:


> Thanks MW! :wave:


Oh, and the bow strap is most commonly referred to as a wrist sling. 

There is no such thing as a dumb question.


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## DeepFried (May 15, 2009)

Man that is just awesome and has inspired me to make my own. A 5 star thread no doubt and a great build.


As for the hecklers they need to grow up and stop being jerks. :wink:


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## lunk2002 (Jul 22, 2006)

Very nice! I love homegrown ingenuity!:thumbs_up


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

There is no such thing as a dumb question. Only dumb comments from some.

Yes, just remove the bolt holding on the wrist sling and screw on the stab. Just bring your bolt to the hardware store to get the correct thread for the stab. The thread size is 5/16-24 or 5/16 fine thread. 

I can't take full credit for the table/chair leg, someone suggested that. The coupler was mine idea .

If you have any questions, please ask. Good luck and have fun building your stabilizer.


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## dustyvarmint (Dec 22, 2005)

*Nice*

That looks really good Gene1!

Looked at the products and pricing of the Hi-Tek products here and they are reasonable, but I just don't think I can help myself, but to try making one:smile:.

happy hunting, dv


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## DeepFried (May 15, 2009)

How did you fix the bolt that screws into the bow onto the end of the stab?


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

I drilled the end cap and bolted it on. If you go to page one the 3rd picture will show the bolt, washer, nut, end cap and union. The union was removed later on.


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## bow_dmen (Dec 15, 2009)

Brother that thing is SICK!!!!!! :mg: I am in need of breaking out the tools now :wink:, my wife thanks you lol. I must say if you saw the trash talker at a shoot he would want to know where you got it, and how much. If you see him price it high, make him pay being a straight up high-end idiot.


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## Dissonant (Sep 17, 2009)

As so many others have said..That thing is sick, and I love it! :thumbs_up I'm definantly going to take your plans and try to make one of my own. Thanks alot for the thread. Watching your project from start to finish was amazing and very inspiring.


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

Thanks for all the nice comments. 

Got to make a side bar now or actually later .


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## SHPoet (Nov 13, 2009)

I'd like to leave the copper tubing outside for a while (a long while, maybe) and let it oxidize. Then seal it so it would not change colors.

I think that would be so cool......


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## bowhunterhaus1 (Oct 16, 2009)

*Cool*

I think it is cool it has me digging around for some parts now, I have made several things alot of em don't work but still a blast to try you never know you might hit on a big one thanks for showing us


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## cory d stroyer (Aug 23, 2009)

i made one out of a roller bearing out of a bull dozer its stainless steel its about four inches long


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## Mr. Burns (Apr 21, 2008)

:thumbs_up now thats a perfect stabilizer!


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## Mr. Burns (Apr 21, 2008)

Gene1 said:


> The washers are held in place by the screw in tip (adjustable table or chair leg). I used a 1/4" coupler and is cast in place with lead solder in the 3/4" pipe. A 1/4-20 nut would work it you some how tack it to the end cap, but then the 3/4" pipe and cap would be empty and I needed the weight at the tip. After that is cooled off I installed the end cap with a drilled out hole.
> 
> 
> 
> I had this can of paint around. It's a high temp engine paint. Make sure you clean your copper pipe and remove all oil or grease. Sanding the pipe gave it a little texture to grab the paint.


hey lets see more pics of that stabilizer! I like what i see there!!


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## jrockne (Nov 28, 2009)

Cajun83 said:


> That is sick... I wish the guy that had the stupid crap to say would come in here and see the final product... can you say open mouth, insert foot... that thing looks awesome.
> 
> Nice job...



Exactly what I was thinking!

Nice job man, looks sweet!


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## Hoosier bowman (Jan 10, 2010)

I would probably fill it with something like motor oil. This way, all the vibration will be soaked up in the oil and there will be less noise of the metal humming. Just a thought. I might make my own now....


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

Hoosier bowman said:


> I would probably fill it with something like motor oil. This way, all the vibration will be soaked up in the oil and there will be less noise of the metal humming. Just a thought. I might make my own now....


I would not use motor oil as a damper because you will need to seal the oil from leaking. If you just used solder and an end cap to contain the oil the heat & flames from the torch will be very dangerous. (FIRE). You can use an adapter with a screw fitting to close it up but it's won't have a clean finish.

You can alway add the Bow jacks on the tip but then it won't be a complete DIY. But when I saw the video of the vibration test on the limbs, I was impressed with the Bowjacks.

Again, Thanks for the nice comments.


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

Here's a picture with it on the bow :smile:. I added the Bowjax because someone gave them to me.


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## Keens (Dec 29, 2007)

Gene1 said:


> I do have the Fuse Injector, and did not notice any difference with or without it. I'm new to Archery and can't buy everything to tryout.
> 
> I think the bow itself is a very stable bow to begin with, only notice a small shock after release even with the Fuse. I've also tried a Easton stabilizer 24" and did not notice any difference. Since I'm new to this I figure it must be me.
> 
> This is a DIY section right ? and I saw other who posted used 3/4" copper tubing. I figure why not have fun with it and share ideas. Long stabilizers are just a long rod of different material to help balance the bow or what ever you want to balance.


I have a solution to your handshock problem.

CoolHandLuke.

Buy a vibekiller.. he makes an awesome one for our bow. eliminates all hand shock. great price too.


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## will zila (Oct 12, 2009)

this inspire dme too make one too slightly differnt though and i am dipping it in plasti dip i will get pics up it is a 10 inch b stinger did u have too hand drill all those holes i have a drill press and it went quik but i would not b fun to do them by hand


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

Yeah, I have a drill press . It was still it was a pain to drill all those holes. Plastic dip is a good idea. It will absorb some of the vibrations.


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## special (Apr 6, 2009)

While Im waiting for my Xtreme Stab Im using a home made set..I couldnt justify buying a set to use while my order is made...Im a cheapskate
A 36" longrod with brass end weights and 12" V Bars...they are 20mm Alloy pipe thats been drilled to lower weight...They have solid alloy plugs pressed into the ends and thread to acept 5/16 UNF threads..
The shelf side bar has a brass plug pressed in to compensate for the sight assembly weight...
they get a lot of looks and comments..and a few smirks,But Ive shot a Fita Field and Fita target PB with them and shot the State Unmarked field record with them the other week..
My son is using an identical long rod and shot the National unmarked field record with it..So home made gear can work..
All up the longrod and V bars set me back $16 for materials ...








Naturaly it will be retired when my Xtreme show up,But I think Ill hang them on my workshop wall:shade:


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## COATED (Jun 3, 2009)

Hats off to you Gene1. I just read thru this entire thread and your stab looks gorgeous. You should get a standing ovation.:set1_applaud::set1_applaud::set1_applaud::set1_applaud::set1_applaud:




Gene1 said:


> Yeah, I have a drill press . It was still it was a pain to drill all those holes. Plastic dip is a good idea. It will absorb some of the vibrations.


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

wsbark01 said:


> If it wasn't for guys tinkering around we wouldn't have half the archery items we have today!!!!!


this is a great point, youre right on wsbark!!!! and by the way, i think it looks very cool and I am sure it gets the job done just as good as a $200 one!!!


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## Gunner7800 (Jul 11, 2007)

special said:


> A 36" longrod with brass end weights and 12" V Bars...they are 20mm *Alloy pipe* thats been drilled to lower weight...They have solid alloy plugs pressed into the ends and thread to acept 5/16 UNF threads..
> The shelf side bar has a brass plug pressed in to compensate for the sight assembly weight...


I'm curious special, what is that tubing originally meant to be used for? In other words, if I were to go to the hardware store, what kind of tubing would I be looking for? I've been trying to find something to use other than copper.


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## douglasryan (Jan 17, 2010)

Excelent Idea. Wheather its dogfood diamonds or in this case copper its just about having the weight in the right spot. If you cut new threads on to one side of a two piece pool stick it will work also.Yes I've done it and you should see the looks I get with that one!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## special (Apr 6, 2009)

Gunner7800 said:


> I'm curious special, what is that tubing originally meant to be used for? In other words, if I were to go to the hardware store, what kind of tubing would I be looking for? I've been trying to find something to use other than copper.




Mate is just 20mm(3/4") alloy tubing from my local engineering and metal fab store..General use alloy pipe??..They just have a rack of all styles of alloy..From flat bar to angle and pipe..Not too sure a hardware store would stock it.


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## Gunner7800 (Jul 11, 2007)

special said:


> Mate is just 20mm(3/4") alloy tubing from my local engineering and metal fab store..General use alloy pipe??..They just have a rack of all styles of alloy..From flat bar to angle and pipe..Not too sure a hardware store would stock it.


Thanks.:darkbeer:


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## kcadstudent (Jan 28, 2010)

nice


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## niloc_king (Jun 10, 2009)

*cool*

Dude i love it. real creative and really alows you to tweak for ones own preference. Now how bout one filled with expandable insulation that would kill alot of vibration id assume.


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

niloc_king said:


> Dude i love it. real creative and really alows you to tweak for ones own preference. Now how bout one filled with expandable insulation that would kill alot of vibration id assume.


That would be hard since it's full of holes on the main pipe or one can wrap the pipe after you remove the foam runout. Just filling the tip, I didn't think would not be enough. A nice idea.


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## RunsUpRiver (Jul 22, 2009)

Nice looking piece of copper!

A homemade "bowjax" can be made from cutting a sheet of rubber into a 2.5 inch circle or square, drilling a hole in the center and then cutting it to form an X.

Sources for the rubber include bicycle inner tube, large rubber washers or rubber gasket material, or even neoprene from an old pair of waders. 

Cant find a piece of rubber? Use a piece of leather or heavy felt cut to look like a bowjax. 

Mix it up and use 2 or 3 different materials to absorb different frequencies faster.

It's all about having a material that is flexible enough to work, yet stiff enough to hold up. A coffee can lid cut into an X works.

You could even tie strips of inner tube or thick rubber bands around the rod, leaving an inch or two dangling to help absorb vibration and sound, much like string whiskers. (You could even use string whiskers)

Stuff a tube with pieces of fleece and rubber and then cap it off.

If your a bowhunter, wrap around the outside of the stab tightly with some fake ivy vine. The leaves will absorb vibration, and add to the 3D'ness of your camo.

I've played with many different materials, most all with success!

From a YOUTUBE video I watched, even gummy worms work.......Although I have not yet tried them on a bow stab 

Keep thinking. There is not much we can actually make for our compound bows except stabs, grips, and fletching/ cresting arrows, but whatever you can make connects you with the sport even more. If you are into hunting, harvesting dinner with something you made yourself feels great. In target archery, shooting better than the guy with a $200 stab setup with a pool cue is kind of fun too!

Dean


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## 3Dshooter68 (Apr 4, 2009)

Here's a bump for gene1's stab! Good work gene.


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## lthrnck03 (Feb 4, 2010)

greaser4252 said:


> Come on, you can,t be serious man.:darkbeer:



I would like to see your homemade stab...... otherwise zip the lip.


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## big_dog (Mar 10, 2010)

gene the final product looks great!! keep it up!!


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## Can't get right (Mar 7, 2009)

That looks awesome. As for dampening it... has any one used silicone caulk. I used to fill my handle bars with it when I used to race dirt bikes. It cut down on my arms pumping up during motos. Just a thought.


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## Noxxio (Jan 11, 2010)

Thanks for sharing Gene.

I am putting together a Olympic recurve and was looking for info on and ideas on how to build my own stabilizer.

Great job Sir and thanks again for sharing :smile:
:thumbs_up:thumbs_up

Noxx


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