# tuning a pse x force please help



## 338btb (Apr 20, 2009)

what i have is a pse x force 6 and a dream season both hf cams both lefthand
i would like to find out from start to finish how to get this shooting the way it should
the marks on the cams donot line up with the string and from what i have heard it really may not be tuned even if they do , i am getting a press from brian so for the first time i will have a draw board
how do you set the tiller by twisting the string?can you explain this and why it is important
how to tune the cams at full draw what to do? and how to acompolish true cam tune
and any other info available i would greatly appreciate


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## BigBore56 (Mar 30, 2009)

*X-Force Tuning*

Most of these bows are pretty close as they come shipped. Marks usually are close on both cams. If your marks are not close to each other, make sure you have the correct modules installed for your DL, and the draw stop is in the right hole (module number correlates to draw stop setting). You can also check this on PSE's website, by downloading the tuning charts for you year and model. THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

The timing that really matters is when you draw the bow on a draw board: check to make sure the bottom cam stop touches the cable at exactly the same time the top cam module is parrallel with the cable. The cable should be flat in the module....when the bottom stop touches its cable.

If the top cam is not stopping when the bottom is, your wall will be MUSHY, and you won't get your correct letoff. Either put twists in or take them out(control cable) to get the top cam in sync with the bottom. I would then check your draw lenght, and if needed, put the string on the + or - peg to get it right. These bows usually are 1/2" long on the draw. Then go back and check the cam timing & adjust the control cable if needed again.

Whey you get the timing correct, set your rest to put the arrow in line with the bottom groove in the riser, and just under the upper groove by the berger hole. This should get you pretty close, and you can "fine tune" to get a perfect bullet hole. These are great shooting bows, and usually tune pretty easy if you have the cams hitting together.

Good Luck!


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## BigBore56 (Mar 30, 2009)

*PSE CAM tune pictures*

I took some pictures of what the cams are supposed to look like at full draw:









LEFT CAM:









RIGHT CAM:









Get them set like this and you feel the "wall" at full draw. Makes the bow a snap to tune also.....and fun to shoot!:darkbeer:


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## Mikey B (Sep 1, 2008)

*cam lean*

Hey Bigbore 56 could you take pic's of the bottom cam to see how much lean is there.


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## NP Archery (Jul 29, 2008)

A nice picture showing how VERY important a draw board is for timing any bow with 2 cams. I can't imagine not having one in every shop.


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## BigBore56 (Mar 30, 2009)

*Cam lean*



Mikey B said:


> Hey Bigbore 56 could you take pic's of the bottom cam to see how much lean is there.


What do you mean....LEAN....it should be perfect!

I just finished putting new Vapor Trail Blue/Black strings & cables on the bow. Served in the peep, set nock height, tied on new D-loop, served area by string stopper, crimped on 10 speed nocks w/heat shrink; it only took 5 arrows to tune it back to original bullethole. Poundage stayed at 62#.

Got to love these PSE X series bows! Will try to get a cam side view picture later this week, as I will be on the road the next few days.

Big shoot next Saturday...will see how the new strings/cables perform. They sure look cool.


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## GimpyPaw (Aug 10, 2008)

http://www.pse-archery.com/img/support/Bow Setup Tuning.pdf


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## 338btb (Apr 20, 2009)

*pse tuning*

when tuning these or any bows should the limb bolts be all the way down and tight and if not then were would you set them


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## tjroadie (Dec 27, 2007)

*limb bolts*

on the x force bows the limb bolts are not to be tightened clear down, the minimum space from the riser to the limb is 3/16" I beleive. someone who knows for sure can chime in.


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## GimpyPaw (Aug 10, 2008)

tjroadie said:


> on the x force bows the limb bolts are not to be tightened clear down, the minimum space from the riser to the limb is 3/16" I beleive. someone who knows for sure can chime in.


I can't seem to find my owner's manual but I from my failing memory I wanted to say 1/8th to 3/16th.


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## Mikey B (Sep 1, 2008)

*cam lean*

On my x 7 the edge of the draw stop is hitting the middle of the cable and would like to see where your's is hitting. In the pic lokks like your's is in the center of the rubber of the cam stop.


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## 338btb (Apr 20, 2009)

*tune*

so is the minimum 3/16 and that compresses that rubber dampener


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## 338btb (Apr 20, 2009)

*tune*

also should the limbs be in this 3/16" when tuning and then it can be let off after cams are tuned
should you also have the atoa set before the cams are tuned and what would that order be systematically
ie set atoa then tiller then put on draw board and adjust cams etc:teeth:


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## BigBore56 (Mar 30, 2009)

*cam lean*



Mikey B said:


> On my x 7 the edge of the draw stop is hitting the middle of the cable and would like to see where your's is hitting. In the pic lokks like your's is in the center of the rubber of the cam stop.


Mikey...thought you were kidding about the lower cam lean. Mine is straight, and hits the rubber roller on the draw stop EXACTLY in the center! I don't see any way to adjust the lower cam if you have lean, unless you have a weak limb?

The top limb is set with 2 twists on the left yoke cable, and 12 on the right, which keeps the cam pretty centered at full draw.

Per other questions..... 

Refering to limb bolts...NEVER BOTTOM LIMBS on these X-Forces. Factory recommends that you always keep .20 (3/16") from riser to limbs. If you need to squeeze out just a little more poundage, they say you must NOT go less than .15. Either way, you will be compressing the rubber washer a little.

The instruction manual is on line that shows a good picture of this.

http://www.pse-archery.com/pdf/09_PSE_Users_Guide.pdf


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## BigBore56 (Mar 30, 2009)

338btb said:


> also should the limbs be in this 3/16" when tuning and then it can be let off after cams are tuned
> should you also have the atoa set before the cams are tuned and what would that order be systematically
> ie set atoa then tiller then put on draw board and adjust cams etc:teeth:


I set the cam timing at the poundage that I want to shoot the bow. Just run the bolts in till you get the poundage you like. Then make sure both tillers are even. If not adjust till they are and you are still at the poundage you like. If your A/A is off, you can twist the Yoke Cable. Again check poundage, and you may need to twist/untwist string to keep your DL correct. When you are happy with DL and A/A, and poundage....then check the CAM TIMING. It should only need a twist or two (right or left) to get sychronized. If you poundage changed, it will only be minimal, and can be tweaked with the limb bolts. Not much changes after than. I check cam timing every week or so (if you have factory strings) or if the back wall feels mushy. You can tell when one gets off...you barely relax at full draw and it tries to yank the string away. After you shoot one that is in perfect time, you can definetely tell when it gets off just a little. With custom strings, things stay pretty much where you put them!


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## Mikey B (Sep 1, 2008)

*cam lean*

Yeah no kidding here I just sent the bow to Breathn so he'll fix her.


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## skynight (Nov 5, 2003)

I just helped someone tune an x-force last week. One thing I noticed in the PSE tuning manual was the recommendation to first set the tiller even, then adjust the cams. Then to recheck the tiller. I followed the procedure and was surprised to see that syncing the cams took the bow out of even tiller and required an adjustment. Eventually I was able to get the cams synced and the tiller even, but don't assume one does not affect the other. I was impressed with how easily this bow tuned up, but when he brought it over the draw stop on the lower cam was over an inch away from the cable when the top cam hit. 

Personally, I find the easiest first step is to remove the cables and string, put them under tension and twist them to factory spec length. This will usually get you within a twist or three of having the bow tuned. Read that PSE tuning guide.


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## 338btb (Apr 20, 2009)

*tuning*

so where can i find this tuning manual


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## skynight (Nov 5, 2003)

338btb said:


> so where can i find this tuning manual



There is a link in post #7.


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## 338btb (Apr 20, 2009)

*tune*

ok got my new string on checked the length first they were correct
installed checked atoa was to long put a few twist in the cables brought it to with in a 1/16
brace height is 3/8" off twisted string 4 turns and brought it to a 1/4"
set in draw board and was off, took 2 twist out of top and 2 in on bottom
corrected it a lot should the string on the stop be hard up against stop 
how do you get the cams tuned the atoa correct and brace heigth the same or is the atoa and brace not that important as cam timing


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## 338btb (Apr 20, 2009)

*pse creep tuning*

now any one got any info on creep tuning


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