# Thread for ] Homemade release body's. Or homemade release's



## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Thread for ] Homemade release body's. Or homemade release's 

Guys if you build a bow release. Share it with us here. :thumbs_up


Finished a release body today. And added a Release Hook. I call it Pearl- E White


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

t t t-------------------------------------------------->


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Come on guys. Post a pic or view. 

Iam in the building mood.  What kind of release. Would you like to see.


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## oneshotthompson (Sep 20, 2009)

do you sell your releases


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

oneshotthompson said:


> do you sell your releases


 Hello and thanks for asking. ] No i don't sell any homemade release's. Just like to tinker.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All

Call this one, ] Hot -to Trot


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

t t t ---------------???? What should i make next. Boy if i had a mill . I would be dangerous.


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## outdoorsman193 (Nov 20, 2008)

Unk Bond said:


> Thread for ] Homemade release body's. Or homemade release's
> 
> Guys if you build a bow release. Share it with us here. :thumbs_up
> 
> ...


Harperman has a release exactly like that only smaller and camo- sweet looking release


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

outdoorsman193 said:


> Harperman has a release exactly like that only smaller and camo- sweet looking release




Hello 
What kind of head . Dose Harperman have on his release.

Will show the same body type. With a Hinge Head tomorrow 

Sure would like to find some thin marble twist , workable material. About 1/8 thick.  [ Later


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## STUDENT-ARCHER (Jun 26, 2009)

*I love a 2 finger hottie!*



Unk Bond said:


> Hello All
> 
> Call this one, ] Hot -to Trot


Unk, are you useing parts from old releases and making your own handles? Is it adjustable? Good looking release.


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## outdoorsman193 (Nov 20, 2008)

Unk Bond said:


> Hello
> What kind of head . Dose Harperman have on his release.
> 
> Will show the same body type. With a Hinge Head tomorrow
> ...


The head has a hook that dosen't move, it has a set screw in it to ajust the travel- he calls it a do nothing release

I can't remember who it's made by- some guy from the south lol


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

outdoorsman193 said:


> The head has a hook that doesn't move, it has a set screw in it to adjust the travel- he calls it a do nothing release
> 
> I can't remember who it's made by- some guy from the south lol



Look a the hook in the number one picture. It has a hook, and a set screw to adjust the travel. Did his release have that type hook. [ Later


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Here you go. guys. 
This might make you feel safer .For the squeamish archer


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Post up yours. [ Later


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## Kilo11 (Nov 3, 2009)

Dude how do you make one of those?


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Little Casper -------------------> :wink:


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Unk Bond said:


> Little Casper -------------------> :wink:



------------------------

Hey guys. Added a bigger nob to Casper. Now that made a big difference. U now can rap your thumb more around it. With a big squeeze  Casper is white . Get it. :wink: Casper the ghost.


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## HOOKER MAN (Jun 26, 2007)

*Hookers Hook*

Hey Unk.... Looks like you have a Whalens Hooker hook to make up your pearl- e white!


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

MRIDEAL2006 said:


> Hey Unk.... Looks like you have a Whalens Hooker hook to make up your pearl- e white!


Your eyes are playing tricks on you. Same for the Hot to Trot
It will work also, on Casper :wink:


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## asa3dpro (Dec 31, 2002)

There is a guy in my old home town that sand casted his releases in scrap aluminum arrows he cut off. People bought them 15 years ago at $125 each.


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## b_vanfossen (Dec 5, 2008)

will you share with us how to make one? the material you use- etc..?

thanks


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

b_vanfossen said:


> will you share with us how to make one? the material you use- etc..?
> 
> thanks



---------------------

Hello
I use 3/4" or 13/16" wood flat spade bit for the finger holes.

I use a 1/8" dill bit for the cam and hook, hole pin.

I use a 3/16 metal mill bit .To cut the groove for a hook or hinge type cam slot.

I use a no. 26 drill bit and a 3/16 x 24 tap.
Comment = If a release isn't to wide. I tap all the way through the pre-drilled hole.
Others i tap about a inch. And back the allen bolt into the threaded hole . With a allen wrench placed in the existing pre-drilled hole from the bottom.

Shaping, i use a Dremal scroll or jig saw. You could also use a hand coping saw.Just slower and a little more work.

Then i use my Dremal small round drum sander. A slow battery pack drill. Would accomplish the same task.

Then i hand sand with 220 paper and finer. Very little file work. 

Now the name of the material i will find out ,what they call it. Also i ordered some other material this week. Want to see how it works out in strength and being hand tool friendly.  But its sharp looking material. :wink: If i post a release picture out of it. Then you will know it all worked out for me.  Later


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## HOOKER MAN (Jun 26, 2007)

Yes my eyes may be playing tricks on me..... or is it just a HOOKER trick? I would sure like to see the hook laying down next to the pearl-e white.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

MRIDEAL2006 said:


> Yes my eyes may be playing tricks on me..... or is it just a HOOKER trick? I would sure like to see the hook laying down next to the pearl-e white.




? Why not the Hot -to Trot . Its the same hook.


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## b_vanfossen (Dec 5, 2008)

Unk Bond said:


> ---------------------
> 
> Hello
> I use 3/4" or 13/16" wood flat spade bit for the finger holes.
> ...


thanks you for going into such detail- I'm just curious what material it is made out of- wood? Thanks


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## bdwhitetalhunt (Dec 14, 2009)

could i make a release body and hook out of aluminum if so what grade would be good for this. i tried to make one out of an old circular saw blade but was nearly impossible to drill threw. plenty strong though.


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## kwalker9 (Nov 29, 2021)

Very Interesting


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Unk Bond said:


> ---------------------
> 
> Hello
> I use 3/4" or 13/16" wood flat spade bit for the finger holes.
> ...


===========================
Hello -- Add on
7/8 inch hole for medium finger pad curve
Most reases you buy have a 7/8 inch finger pad curve
I.use 360 aluminum for body frame [ Later


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

I was wondering were you have been unk bond.
Here are some of my releases I have made from scratch.
The 2nd release pictured is the one I killed my first deer with.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

All the release bodies are made from 6061 aluminum. The black 2 finger is mild steel blued A couple times to turn it black.
Half moons are made from a stainless 1/2” bolt and the hooks are from a grade 8 bolt and heat treated.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Leviw96 said:


> All the release bodies are made from 6061 aluminum. The black 2 finger is mild steel blued A couple times to turn it black.
> Half moons are made from a stainless 1/2” bolt and the hooks are from a grade 8 bolt and heat treated.


===========================
Hello Leviw 96
Just outstanding you sure have come a long way
Just outstanding 
You are a credit as a DIY release designer

This should be a inspiration to other young archers [ Later


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

Thanks. Unk bond. It’s Inspired by you. 

I am blessed to have access mill and a lathe though.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

We have a lot of lurkers in this thread.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Leviw96 said:


> We have a lot of lurkers in this thread.





Leviw96 said:


> We have a lot of lurkers in this thread.



===========================

Hello Leviw 96

Lurkers 
I came to Archery Talk many moons ago
For fellowship and conversation Be it positive or negative
Back then we had some nice input conversations

Now days theses young-uns Just grasps what they can freely get And move on
That's one reason old posters like my self Just don't post any more and share are input. 

Later


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## Rockwell (Nov 23, 2021)

Unk Bond said:


> ===========================
> Now days theses young-uns Just grasps what they can freely get And move on
> That's one reason old posters like my self Just don't post any more and share are input.
> 
> Later


Me thinks most are just to wrapped up in their electronic gizmo's than wanting to be bothered to have make something for themselves, like we had too in days gone past.


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## bowman2 (2 mo ago)

how do you make these? do you just make them from scratch or do you use cad and model them to be milled or 3d printed?


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

bowman2 said:


> how do you make these? do you just make them from scratch or do you use cad and model them to be milled or 3d printed?


=============================
Hello
For me I make a cardboard pattern And make them from scratch [ Later


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

Here’s a new one. 
Made from scratch. Body it mild steel blued finish. Hook and moon are from a grade 8 bolt and hardened. 
moon has a click setting.
Hinge Head is milled from aluminum.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Leviw96 said:


> Here’s a new one.
> Made from scratch. Body it mild steel blued finish. Hook and moon are from a grade 8 bolt and hardened.
> moon has a click setting.
> Hinge Head is milled from aluminum.
> ...


===========================
Hello Leviw 96
 just outstanding
Do like the middle finger pad 
Bet it releases smooth as silk [ Later


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

Thanks unk. And yes it does release smoothly


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## Rockwell (Nov 23, 2021)

Leviw96 said:


> Here’s a new one.
> Made from scratch. Body it mild steel blued finish. Hook and moon are from a grade 8 bolt and hardened.
> moon has a click setting.
> Hinge Head is milled from aluminum.
> View attachment 7749213


Don't hide that 2-finger in the background, looks very nice as well!


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

Heres the 2 finger release. @Rockwell.
I killed my mule deer with this release it’s more polished up since this photo and the hook is shortened


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## Rockwell (Nov 23, 2021)

If figured the one in the background was the same, just refined a bit more! Well done.


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## mshockey (Nov 24, 2013)

Hey Leviw96,
Great job, If you don't care to share, what was your process to harden the grade 8 bolt? Did you happen to test to see what the actual finished hardness was?


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

mshockey said:


> Hey Leviw96,
> Great job, If you don't care to share, what was your process to harden the grade 8 bolt? Did you happen to test to see what the actual finished hardness was?


======================
Hello
A very good question
Iam interested also Thanks [ Later


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## Fenderkun (Mar 26, 2009)

Hi guys! I have made a few. In fact I have been making release aids for at least 3 years now. This is one of the latest ones. The body is 304 stainless steel with titanium/zirconium damascus inlays and adjustable 3/4 finger parts. The inlays are bolted from the inside. The mechanism is N690 corrosion resistant steel. Heat treated to around 58HRC. Everything is done on a CNC with some hand fitting and finish. If you'd like I can share a lot about my techniques, mechanism design etc.


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## Rockwell (Nov 23, 2021)

Fenderkun said:


> Hi guys! I have made a few. In fact I have been making release aids for at least 3 years now. This is one of the latest ones. The body is 304 stainless steel with titanium/zirconium damascus inlays and adjustable 3/4 finger parts. The inlays are bolted from the inside. The mechanism is N690 corrosion resistant steel. Heat treated to around 58HRC. Everything is done on a CNC with some hand fitting and finish. If you'd like I can share a lot about my techniques, mechanism design etc.
> View attachment 7752071
> View attachment 7752072


I'd say you have skills sir!


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

Fenderkun said:


> Hi guys! I have made a few. In fact I have been making release aids for at least 3 years now. This is one of the latest ones. The body is 304 stainless steel with titanium/zirconium damascus inlays and adjustable 3/4 finger parts. The inlays are bolted from the inside. The mechanism is N690 corrosion resistant steel. Heat treated to around 58HRC. Everything is done on a CNC with some hand fitting and finish. If you'd like I can share a lot about my techniques, mechanism design etc.
> View attachment 7752071
> View attachment 7752072


All I can say is wow. If you can make a thumb release I would love to see what you could do with a hinge release.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

mshockey said:


> Hey Leviw96,
> Great job, If you don't care to share, what was your process to harden the grade 8 bolt? Did you happen to test to see what the actual finished hardness was?


I don’t have a way to check hardness I just heat the part till it turns blue and then quench it in oil. Since doing that I get minimal wear. It helps that a hinge fires under very little stress. Because of the let off.
You are not dragging the hook off of the edge of the moon at 70lbs of force.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

Fenderkun said:


> Hi guys! I have made a few. In fact I have been making release aids for at least 3 years now. This is one of the latest ones. The body is 304 stainless steel with titanium/zirconium damascus inlays and adjustable 3/4 finger parts. The inlays are bolted from the inside. The mechanism is N690 corrosion resistant steel. Heat treated to around 58HRC. Everything is done on a CNC with some hand fitting and finish. If you'd like I can share a lot about my techniques, mechanism design etc.
> View attachment 7752071
> View attachment 7752072


Please share more pics.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Leviw96 said:


> All I can say is wow. If you can make a thumb release I would love to see what you could do with a hinge release.


=======================

Hello
X2 same here [ Later


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## Fenderkun (Mar 26, 2009)

Thank you guys! Lets begin then.
So when I started I had to work from somewhere. Since I had no experience in release mechanics, but I've opened a few in the past. So I disassembled my Stan in order to make a copy of the mechanism to understand how it works and then improve upon it. First I added notches to cocking lever and loop hook and other minor changes. But I left the work surfaces close to original, because that was a mystery. 
For the handle material I went with brass straight away. Several reasons. The brass is heavy and Heavy metal is the best kind of metal. It machines well, like aluminum. Aluminum needs to be anodized and I don't have the equipment for that. Also archers value heavy releases more. It is hart to tell why, but it feels good in the hand when it fires. So heavy is good.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

I wish i had access to a cnc mill. I can do some cad. Which program did you use to model in.


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## Fenderkun (Mar 26, 2009)

I work in Solidworks and Solidcam. When I started I didn't have a cnc either. What I had was a small tabletop mill, which I converted to cnc. I even made conversion parts on that same mill. That was way back, very primitive, but you have to start somewhere. Anyway, if you have any ideas post them.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello
Off topic [ But is a real hand-E in disassembling a release
For a pattern or just to repair a release
You might say You use a bag Well so did I

But I knew there was a better way.
So I took one of my small aquariums
Or fish tank You might call one.

Closed the open top off with cardboard
In the bottom I cut out 2 small squares one in each corner
Where as my hands could reach in to work on the release to open it 

Now this little tank box Caught those nasty flying springs
Well once again my cogs started turning
With the idea of laying two small magnets

On the tank box floor They would ketch all the flying parts
Worked like a charm
Later will post a picture if interested [ Later


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

Fenderkun said:


> I work in Solidworks and Solidcam. When I started I didn't have a cnc either. What I had was a small tabletop mill, which I converted to cnc. I even made conversion parts on that same mill. That was way back, very primitive, but you have to start somewhere. Anyway, if you have any ideas post them.
> View attachment 7752758


ok we use solid works were I work.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

Tha


Unk Bond said:


> Hello
> Off topic [ But is a real hand-E in disassembling a release
> For a pattern or just to repair a release
> You might say You use a bag Well so did I
> ...


that is the problem with opening them up especially if you don’t know the layout inside.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

I purchased a Chinese thumb release and I’m hoping to pattern the internals and replace them with tougher parts.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Unk Bond said:


> Hello
> Off topic [ But is a real hand-E in disassembling a release
> For a pattern or just to repair a release
> You might say You use a bag Well so did I
> ...


=================================

Hello
Carter showed me a litle trick
Take out 2 bolts and replace them with the 2 longer bolts
And remove the rest

Now tap the release on its edge
Release bodt case will open
Remove the two long bolts

Then take a picture [ Later


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## Fenderkun (Mar 26, 2009)

Leviw96 said:


> I purchased a Chinese thumb release and I’m hoping to pattern the internals and replace them with tougher parts.


These are very similar to the old Stans


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

Ok! It’s not even terrible the internals just won’t last as they were cast metal.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Unk Bond said:


> ======================
> Hello
> A very good question
> Iam interested also Thanks [ Later


========================
Hello
Still interested [ Later


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## Fenderkun (Mar 26, 2009)

So lets talk about mechanisms more. This is what it looked like after trimming some of the unnecessary parts. The point of having 4 parts in this case is disconnecting the loop hook from your trigger. So no matter how much you pull, the trigger always stays the same. I haven't shown any springs on schematic, but it has 3, try to guess where they go.
The most important point I wanted to show here is the engagement angle between the hook and the sear. Draw the line between the point of the sear rotation and the point of contact with the hook. Then a perpendicular from the point of contact. The hook surface needs to have a very slight 1 degree negative angle to that. So that when the tension is applied the parts slide in towards the closed position. The angle cannot be positive because the parts will slide open when you draw the bow. And it cannot be any more than a couple of degrees because the release won't fire under tension. You will get a click, but no disengagement. So due to the way I produce parts I have to hand fit them to work properly, so I leave some material to grind away and then polish the surfaces. I use a bench grinder with a fine diamond disc on it and a work surface perpendicular to the disc, again very important. The best way of keeping all the angles constant all the time would be by using jigs on rails. But since I have so many different parts all the time so I just basically eyeball it every time.,


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

Fenderkun said:


> So lets talk about mechanisms more. This is what it looked like after trimming some of the unnecessary parts. The point of having 4 parts in this case is disconnecting the loop hook from your trigger. So no matter how much you pull, the trigger always stays the same. I haven't shown any springs on schematic, but it has 3, try to guess where they go.
> The most important point I wanted to show here is the engagement angle between the hook and the sear. Draw the line between the point of the sear rotation and the point of contact with the hook. Then a perpendicular from the point of contact. The hook surface needs to have a very slight 1 degree negative angle to that. So that when the tension is applied the parts slide in towards the closed position. The angle cannot be positive because the parts will slide open when you draw the bow. And it cannot be any more than a couple of degrees because the release won't fire under tension. You will get a click, but no disengagement. So due to the way I produce parts I have to hand fit them to work properly, so I leave some material to grind away and then polish the surfaces. I use a bench grinder with a fine diamond disc on it and a work surface perpendicular to the disc, again very important. The best way of keeping all the angles constant all the time would be by using jigs on rails. But since I have so many different parts all the time so I just basically eyeball it every time.,
> View attachment 7753336
> View attachment 7753335


Ok. Good to know.


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## Fenderkun (Mar 26, 2009)

The cocking lever engagement surface has to be thoroughly polished as well as corresponding trigger surface. The trigger slides off the lever and any irregularities you are going to feel during the shot. Although most people prefer the shortest trigger travel as possible. To do that I keep the edges of the surfaces sharp when I grind and polish them. To remove the grind marks I use hand grinder with small coarse rubber tools. The hand piece is Strong 102 with 35K rpm. Very nice tool. 
The way these surfaces engage is shown on the picture. The firing spring tries to rotate the lever clockwise, while the trigger part is in the way. The trigger tension is is adjustable with the screw which compresses the spring. And the travel is limited by the screw on the opposite side. The springs I use are carbon steel ones. The stainless ones lose their strength very quickly. I tried a few, and the best results I got with these: the firing spring is 4.5x0.7mm, the trigger spring is 2.5x0.5mm, the third one rotates the sear 4x0.3mm stainless. I put some shrink tube on the springs, the blue pieces on the picture so that the wire doesn't rub on the metal that much, for smooth action. Also the adjustment bolts are M4. I put the handle together and thread the holes manually. The tension adjustment hole isn't threaded all the way so that spring coils will not catch on the threads. In some cases that will cause a very faint clicks during the shot. And since this is right next to your ear, you will definitely hear that.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

Fenderkun said:


> The cocking lever engagement surface has to be thoroughly polished as well as corresponding trigger surface. The trigger slides off the lever and any irregularities you are going to feel during the shot. Although most people prefer the shortest trigger travel as possible. To do that I keep the edges of the surfaces sharp when I grind and polish them. To remove the grind marks I use hand grinder with small coarse rubber tools. The hand piece is Strong 102 with 35K rpm. Very nice tool.
> The way these surfaces engage is shown on the picture. The firing spring tries to rotate the lever clockwise, while the trigger part is in the way. The trigger tension is is adjustable with the screw which compresses the spring. And the travel is limited by the screw on the opposite side. The springs I use are carbon steel ones. The stainless ones lose their strength very quickly. I tried a few, and the best results I got with these: the firing spring is 4.5x0.7mm, the trigger spring is 2.5x0.5mm, the third one rotates the sear 4x0.3mm stainless. I put some shrink tube on the springs, the blue pieces on the picture so that the wire doesn't rub on the metal that much, for smooth action. Also the adjustment bolts are M4. I put the handle together and thread the holes manually. The tension adjustment hole isn't threaded all the way so that spring coils will not catch on the threads. In some cases that will cause a very faint clicks during the shot. And since this is right next to your ear, you will definitely hear that.
> View attachment 7753953
> View attachment 7753956


That is some crazy detail. I’m impressed. Thanks for sharing.


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## Fenderkun (Mar 26, 2009)

I people like this kind of content I'll keep going.


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## Fenderkun (Mar 26, 2009)

Mechanism materials. My guess is that most manufacturers use 440C type steel. It has around 18% chromium and 1% carbon. Which gives it good corrosion resistance and durability with good heat treatment. I personally prefer N690 by Bohler, which has similar composition. I cut my parts in these sort of plates which go to the heat treatment after. This steel needs to be wrapped in stainless steel foil during the process. Otherwise much of the material will oxidize and burn away. When I cut the parts I cut almost to the bottom but leave them hanging in the plate by 0.1mm of the material left. So they stay in one piece and get consistent heat treatment. I know there are better solutions to that, because when the steel is hardened I need to break apart the parts and cut the excess material by hand which is tedious. Then I throw everything in the tumbler for at least 2 whole days. For the tumbling media I use coarse ceramic about 10mm in size.
The pins for the mechanism are bearing steel pins they come in various sizes very hard and very precise. I use sizes 2.5*12, 2.5*10, 2.5*5 the dimensions are in millimeters. Also I use brass washers 2.5*6*0.35mm and m3 spring washers to locate the trigger and cocking lever parts between the sides of the body, so they do not touch it preferably. The body has pockets 0.25mm in one side for the brass washer and 0.65mm in the opposite side for the spring washer. 
All the pins, springs and washers are off the shelf stuff which is convenient.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

Fenderkun said:


> Mechanism materials. My guess is that most manufacturers use 440C type steel. It has around 18% chromium and 1% carbon. Which gives it good corrosion resistance and durability with good heat treatment. I personally prefer N690 by Bohler, which has similar composition. I cut my parts in these sort of plates which go to the heat treatment after. This steel needs to be wrapped in stainless steel foil during the process. Otherwise much of the material will oxidize and burn away. When I cut the parts I cut almost to the bottom but leave them hanging in the plate by 0.1mm of the material left. So they stay in one piece and get consistent heat treatment. I know there are better solutions to that, because when the steel is hardened I need to break apart the parts and cut the excess material by hand which is tedious. Then I throw everything in the tumbler for at least 2 whole days. For the tumbling media I use coarse ceramic about 10mm in size.
> The pins for the mechanism are bearing steel pins they come in various sizes very hard and very precise. I use sizes 2.5*12, 2.5*10, 2.5*5 the dimensions are in millimeters. Also I use brass washers 2.5*6*0.35mm and m3 spring washers to locate the trigger and cocking lever parts between the sides of the body, so they do not touch it preferably. The body has pockets 0.25mm in one side for the brass washer and 0.65mm in the opposite side for the spring washer.
> All the pins, springs and washers are off the shelf stuff which is convenient.
> 
> ...


how many releases do you make in a run.


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## Rockwell (Nov 23, 2021)

Fenderkun, I'd love to give one of those a shot but it's too bad your so darn far away.


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## Fenderkun (Mar 26, 2009)

I don't do a lot, I'm a one person factory usually and I do other work too. So a couple at a time. But recently I made a bunch. My idea was making custom releases, but actually no one knows exactly what they want, except maybe the pros.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

That seems to be the way it is for most custom items unless it’s Color’s.


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## Fenderkun (Mar 26, 2009)

Rockwell said:


> Fenderkun, I'd love to give one of those a shot but it's too bad your so darn far away.


Who knows maybe I'll come visit.


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## Fenderkun (Mar 26, 2009)

Lets talk about the short neck version for those of you who wants extra draw length. It has about a quarter inch shorter neck than the standard one. To do that I crated a new loop hook and a sear and a body with a shorter neck. The particularly important issue here is leverages. I have shown on the schematic the approximate distances between the point of contact and points of rotation of the cocking lever and the sear. The idea is that in order for the lever to have the most authority the distance from the pivot to the point of contact has to be as short as possible. Otherwise you can have the release to lock up if you pull extra hard during the shot. As the parts move around the leverages change closer to 50/50, but that's fine since the sear is already out of the way.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

Fenderkun said:


> Lets talk about the short neck version for those of you who wants extra draw length. It has about a quarter inch shorter neck than the standard one. To do that I crated a new loop hook and a sear and a body with a shorter neck. The particularly important issue here is leverages. I have shown on the schematic the approximate distances between the point of contact and points of rotation of the cocking lever and the sear. The idea is that in order for the lever to have the most authority the distance from the pivot to the point of contact has to be as short as possible. Otherwise you can have the release to lock up if you pull extra hard during the shot. As the parts move around the leverages change closer to 50/50, but that's fine since the sear is already out of the way.
> View attachment 7755449
> View attachment 7755450


How did you discover that they can lock up. just and eye for it or did you make one and find that out. 

I’m partial to the short neck releases myself. One of the reasons I made my first hinge release. They were all way to long In the neck.


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## Fenderkun (Mar 26, 2009)

Leviw96 said:


> How did you discover that they can lock up. just and eye for it or did you make one and find that out.


Well, trial and error of course. 
When I test the releases I basically try to dead lift with it and pull the trigger. The hook has to open. Since I can pull way more than than a person would in a archery situation, I consider it a good test. If the angles on the parts are incorrect, the friction between the hook and the sear is too much, and the firing spring isn't capable of moving the sear away, the hook will not release the string. And when you try to let down it will fire. Using a stronger spring in this case is no bueno. The cocking is going to be uncomfortable to the fingers. And there will be more resistance on the trigger, also noise when it fires. When I wrote a post about the springs I advised against using the stainless springs, because they loose their strength over time. That happened too. So no more stainless springs.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

It’s amazing All the little things that you find out as you build something.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

Unk Bond said:


> ========================
> Hello
> Still interested [ Later


Unk Bond. What is the blue coating you use on aluminum to mark out release bodies. I’m looking to get some.


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## mshockey (Nov 24, 2013)

Leviw96 said:


> Unk Bond. What is the blue coating you use on aluminum to mark out release bodies. I’m looking to get some.


Dykem layout dye


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

mshockey said:


> Dykem layout dye


Thank you.

winter is in full swing here in Alberta. So it’s time to make some more releases. 
I purchased a Dremel nock off tool to help with the polishing so I’m set.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

First release body done in KG industries Gunkote Socom Black


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## Fenderkun (Mar 26, 2009)

Resistance activated release. From what I've seen most of these releases work on this general principle. When the force is applied to the hook it rotates counter clockwise by the schematic and slides off the lever. The lever rotates the same direction but it is spring loaded. The spring is the same 2.5*0.5mm, adjustable by the m4 screw. M4 is a bit coarse thread so a little goes a long way. The safety restricts the lever movement. It has the same button on a post and in order disengage the safety you pull it the same way you would pull a trigger, then you don't need to hold the safety, you can relax your thumb and forearm. The safety isn't automatic in my version of the mechanism, so in order to engage the safety you need to manually push the button the opposite direction. This is due to several reasons. If the safety was was automatic you would have to either hold it while drawing the bow or it has to have a separate part that moves the lever in the safe position. Which is still an option that I implemented in my other mechanism. 
What I wanted to achieve with this release is interchangeability with the original trigger. So the new mechanism fits perfectly in the original body or any custom body and hook location is the same where it touches the string loop. And so your anchor points stay the same.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

Fenderkun said:


> Resistance activated release. From what I've seen most of these releases work on this general principle. When the force is applied to the hook it rotates counter clockwise by the schematic and slides off the lever. The lever rotates the same direction but it is spring loaded. The spring is the same 2.5*0.5mm, adjustable by the m4 screw. M4 is a bit coarse thread so a little goes a long way. The safety restricts the lever movement. It has the same button on a post and in order disengage the safety you pull it the same way you would pull a trigger, then you don't need to hold the safety, you can relax your thumb and forearm. The safety isn't automatic in my version of the mechanism, so in order to engage the safety you need to manually push the button the opposite direction. This is due to several reasons. If the safety was was automatic you would have to either hold it while drawing the bow or it has to have a separate part that moves the lever in the safe position. Which is still an option that I implemented in my other mechanism.
> What I wanted to achieve with this release is interchangeability with the original trigger. So the new mechanism fits perfectly in the original body or any custom body and hook location is the same where it touches the string loop. And so your anchor points stay the same.
> View attachment 7759267
> View attachment 7759268
> View attachment 7759269


You have made a few of those releases!


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

I’m making another hinge.
I have to Decide on the thumb peg thread size 
A little machining for the head to rest against and some polishing to remove the sanding lines and she’s ready for gunkote.


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## OhWell (Aug 21, 2013)

Oh yah !!! I am looking forward to shooting it.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

OhWell said:


> Oh yah !!! I am looking forward to shooting it.


I hope the sweep of the fingers is close to what your current Release is. I’m going off of pictures.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Leviw96 said:


> I’m making another hinge.
> I have to Decide on the thumb peg thread size
> A little machining for the head to rest against and some polishing to remove the sanding lines and she’s ready for gunkote.
> View attachment 7762768
> ...


=========================
Hello
Generally thumb peg size is 8/32 [ Later


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

Unk Bond said:


> =========================
> Hello
> Generally thumb peg size is 8/32 [ Later


thanks unk


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## OhWell (Aug 21, 2013)

Leviw96 said:


> I hope the sweep of the fingers is close to what your current Release is. I’m going off of pictures.


I am sure I will really like it.


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## OhWell (Aug 21, 2013)

I may have it powder coated and shoot it at Nationals.......

Obviously if you coat it I wont mess with it.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

I will be able to ship it sooner if I don’t coat it. I’m waiting for parts for a bigger oven. Toaster oven is to uneven for heating…


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## OhWell (Aug 21, 2013)

Leviw96 said:


> I will be able to ship it sooner if I don’t coat it. I’m waiting for parts for a bigger oven. Toaster oven is to uneven for heating…


send it raw, I have a powder coated down the road from work. I may get it done to match my bow.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

Ok. I’ve got to work on the moon and hook as well as the head yet.


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## Rockwell (Nov 23, 2021)

Leviw96 said:


> I will be able to ship it sooner if I don’t coat it. I’m waiting for parts for a bigger oven. Toaster oven is to uneven for heating…


Had the same issue when curing Norrells Moly-resin in a toaster oven. My work around was a using an old single file cabinet, gutted the toaster ovens outer shell and cut a hole into the side of the cabinet and mounted the oven guts. Then I took a piece of coat hanger and hung a sheet of aluminum foil 4" or 5" in front of the elements as a heat deflector...worked like a charm.


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## Leviw96 (Nov 7, 2020)

That’s the route I’m looking to go as well


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