# Why a blade rest?



## thebassmachine (Mar 4, 2007)

Just wondering why most tournment professionals shoot a lizard tongue, or blade rest over say a drop away. Are they more accurate, help improve form, easier to tune, or less complicated? 

I just ordered a Contender Elite and was going to use a drop away on it, but have noticed at most of the indoor spot shoots and 3-D tournaments a lot of guys with a target bow shoot a blade, so now I don't know which to get for my first target bow. Any help is appreciated!


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## 3Dblackncamo (Jul 22, 2009)

the spring steel tunes very good no moving parts very dependable repeatable accuracy


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## hockeyref (Jun 2, 2006)

what about wear on a carbon shaft?


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## DEAD 10 (Aug 14, 2009)

thebassmachine said:


> Just wondering why most tournment professionals shoot a lizard tongue, or blade rest over say a drop away. Are they more accurate, help improve form, easier to tune, or less complicated?
> 
> I just ordered a Contender Elite and was going to use a drop away on it, but have noticed at most of the indoor spot shoots and 3-D tournaments a lot of guys with a target bow shoot a blade, so now I don't know which to get for my first target bow. Any help is appreciated!


verry simple there is NO chanse for a macanical failure


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## Mach-X (Jun 12, 2006)

*The most trustworthy*

The .10,.12..08 blades depending on the arrow weight are the most stable shooting platform designed that I know of. I am shooting a .12 blade for a 674 grain arrow for indoors vegas spots. The tempered steel is hardend and is extremely tough. A drop away has many points where timing (buss cable) and or melted or tied ends can creep or fail. Besides the forks sort of aim or track the arrow as it leaves the bow if its set-up with a little downward presure. 
we all have a theory!
Kevin


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## WDMJR3DBOWGUY (Dec 2, 2003)

hockeyref said:


> what about wear on a carbon shaft?


doesnt seem to show on my fatboys


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## CHPro (May 21, 2002)

> what about wear on a carbon shaft?


Non-issue if you have it set up correctly. 1) enough flex in the blade, i.e. not too stiff, and 2) slight nock high set up so the arrow tracks over the blade rather than slamming through the blade at release.

>>------>


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## RHINO (Jul 15, 2002)

Personally I use a Trophy Taker drop away on all my bows. Big fat heavy aluminums for indoors, skinny little carbons outdoors, and carbons on my hunting and 3-D bows.

I always felt that a 12 blade was a bit flimsy for the heavy indoor arrows (2613/2712 w/300 grain points), so I would use a backer blade to stiffen it up. Maybe that made it too stiff, because it would always leave scratches on my X7's which I didn't like.

I switched to the TT many years ago, and have never had any issues with the rest malfunctioning. I agree some drop aways have too many moving parts for my taste, but the TT is very simple and solid.


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## jtwilliams79 (Feb 14, 2007)

I too am using a 12 blade with another 12 blade as a backer for X7 (2712 w/ 300 tip). The consistency is there, but I'm finding that on my other setups, a fork rest is proving to be better.


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## mag41vance (Mar 13, 2008)

The Blade rest also requires you to be smooth in your draw, constant with your wrist position, and as a result your form has a better chance of being steady and repeatable. An arrow that pops off of the blade indicates you did something different.


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