# To click or not to click



## Mahly (Dec 18, 2002)

I use the click for consistency.
The click tells me my hand is in the same place, fingers in the same place for each shot.
I use it as a safety as well. Draw, anchor/set contact points, find target, roll to the click, focus on X, add tension till it fires.
I MAY go away from the click someday, but until I hit the click with the same amount of roll EVERY time, I'll keep the click going.


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## Looney Bin (Feb 9, 2009)

Mahly said:


> I use the click for consistency.
> The click tells me my hand is in the same place, fingers in the same place for each shot.
> I use it as a safety as well. Draw, anchor/set contact points, find target, roll to the click, focus on X, add tension till it fires.
> I MAY go away from the click someday, but until I hit the click with the same amount of roll EVERY time, I'll keep the click going.



That's exactly what I'm doing.

On occasion, when shooting without the click. I almost feel lost . I'm sure it was an inconsistent anchor issue. I would draw and anchor and start my shot process. It would then take forever to go off. In the mean time I would from time to time get TP waiting for the shot to go off and wonder why in the heck its not going off. The click just seems to turn my brain off.


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## erdman41 (May 6, 2009)

Mahly said:


> I use the click for consistency.
> The click tells me my hand is in the same place, fingers in the same place for each shot.
> I use it as a safety as well. Draw, anchor/set contact points, find target, roll to the click, focus on X, add tension till it fires.
> I MAY go away from the click someday, but until I hit the click with the same amount of roll EVERY time, I'll keep the click going.


This is what I do now. I used to despise a click but it was because I wasn't using it correctly. Now it is a relaxing mentally knowing that I starting from the same place each time.


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## Bees (Jan 28, 2003)

when I use one, I do what your doing. draw rotate to click and then start my routine.

reason I don't use the click, I get to where I can predict and then I start command shooting the hinge.

so I took the click out, I draw rotate my handle to my spot but without the click, I don't start my routine from the exact same place every time.
this little bit of wiggle room keeps me from command shooting. My shots all break in my window, but I never know exactly when.


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## Cdpkook132 (Jul 8, 2009)

I use one on and off for practice. Instead of "rolling it" I am relaxing my hand to the click. Then start the shot routine. 

This helps me with no click which I mainly shoot when I am not relaxing my hand enough.


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## skiisme753 (Jan 15, 2013)

No click for me. It defeats the purpose of a surprise release for me. If I'm anchored in the same spot on my face and looking through my peep the same then it should be a good shot. I think a click is mostly just a comfort factor for some people its just what they are used to.


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

I've noticed different click "shelf" distance has a lot to do with feel. My Longhorn allows me to rotate more after the click than my BT3, less anticipation.


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## Mestang99 (Jan 10, 2013)

During an interview Jesse Broadwater said he is shooting a click now, for the same reason as listed above. He likes the consistency it provides to his shot.


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## RCR_III (Mar 19, 2011)

When I had my Longhorn I tried a click and had it click as I anchored and took my thumb off the peg. I used it for a consistent starting point. The reason I switched to a smooth moon was because It felt like there was too long a distance between the click and when the shot would go off. When I got my HT3 I just started out with the smooth moon, but I've heard the shelf size may be smaller on the HT3 so I'm thinking about giving it a try again. I liked the consistent starting position to help with my shot timing.


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## cbrunson (Oct 25, 2010)

Mahly said:


> I use the click for consistency.
> The click tells me my hand is in the same place, fingers in the same place for each shot.
> I use it as a safety as well. Draw, anchor/set contact points, find target, roll to the click, focus on X, add tension till it fires.
> I MAY go away from the click someday, but until I hit the click with the same amount of roll EVERY time, I'll keep the click going.


Same here. I'm thinking about trying a TB sweet spot now.


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## kballer1 (Aug 31, 2010)

Go to Nock ON & listen to John Dudley & Randy Ulmer talk about hindges & if to Click or not.


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## lknchoppers (Jun 13, 2008)

I have used my hinge without a click and with a click. I have settled on the click for about 3 years now. With the click I know where I am at to start back tension and feel much more consistant. The biggest thing with a click for me is how deep it is. When the sear goes into the click, if the click groove is too deep the sear will hang up in there and it will take more rotational pressure to go off. It is kind of like getting stuck. If the click is too shallow the shot will fire prematurely. I have been able to find my optimal click depth and dress the sear to fine tune it. If you feel like you are getting "stuck" at the click you may have a click that is too deep.


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## mizzo29 (Jan 12, 2011)

Good thread I just got a Scott longhorn hex and not sure if I should click it or not. I received it with the moon flipped to no click and have only played with a piece of string so far.


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## teenarcher36 (Dec 17, 2006)

I just went 100% hinge for 3D, indoor, and hunting. In the past I did not use a click as it bothered me so much I would get anxious and the shot would never break. That was with my BT gold, now I have a Longhorn Pro and the click is much better imo. I think I will continue to use a click for hunting purposes, but may go clickless after turkey season.


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## blueidexx (Oct 28, 2002)

The biggest thing I see with people using clickers is when they hear or feel the "click" they freeze up and/or start the shot process all over. Got to remember the clicker is a safety check just keep pulling.


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## WhitBri (Jan 30, 2007)

I use the click. Just a reference for starting the shot process. Dudley and Ulmer we're referencing the guys learning backtension after TP issues not use of the click overall. Plenty of world class archers using a click. My advice is if you are using it get to it quickly after anchor and use it to start your execution don't shoot two shots with the click being an interruption between the first and starting over and shooting again.


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## cbrunson (Oct 25, 2010)

WhitBri said:


> I use the click. Just a reference for starting the shot process. Dudley and Ulmer we're referencing the guys learning backtension after TP issues not use of the click overall. Plenty of world class archers using a click. *My advice is if you are using it get to it quickly after anchor and use it to start your execution *don't shoot two shots with the click being an interruption between the first and starting over and shooting again.


Great advice. I've noticed that creeping up on the clicker meesses me up. It's better to go to it quick and then start holding and pulling.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

I shoot a 4-finger Knuckle Under with the click. On this release it's fairy cold after the click.
I set it up so that it clicks as soon as I take my thumb off the peg. So I draw and settle into the wall, remove my thumb and hear the click then run my shot. If it clicks before I remove my thumb or doesn't click right away then I let down and restart the shot.

I should say that I'm pretty new to compound archery but I've been a competitive traditional shooter with some success.

-Grant


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## Rolo (Dec 16, 2002)

When I shoot with a click, it clicks about the time I settle into my anchor, and way before I start aiming.


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

Click it or ticket!


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

JK! I shoot with a click right now, but I can argue the side against the click. I just like to know that I'm a few seconds away from firing...


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## Cdpkook132 (Jul 8, 2009)

Head to head shooting the click can really screw with some opponents! Especially a nice loud deep click like the zenith moon provides.


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## ron w (Jan 5, 2013)

the key to using a click, is that you have to modify your shot process to accommodate the fact that the click is there. if your sequence has been adjusted to include the click, you will have a deliberate well defined, pause in the succession of steps, developed around that click. these steps will be defined as "before the click" and "after the click" the click being the separator between target acquisition and hard aim/ release execution. nothing but hard aim and the release execution should happen after the click and nothing remotely close to hard aim and release execution should happen before the click.
this where most guys have their problems with a click. without recognizing the click, and not inserting that deliberate pause in their sequence, the click becomes a distractor and might as well not be there.
another important aspect is the angular arrangement of your release hand at the time of the click. this is adjustable in the release, and it sets the hand in the right position for the individual's range of motion in relation to rotating the release with back tension, to get the shot to break when alignment is optimal. if you feel like you are having to work too hard to get the shot to break, your click is most likely set too late in your back tension's "range of execution travel", or "swing", or your draw length may be a bit too long.


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## Rolo (Dec 16, 2002)

^^^Not exactly what you mean by the term "pause", but I don't pause my shot process when shooting a hinge with or without a click, unless I am letting down. For me, the element of starting, stopping, and starting again is counter-productive to my process, which is what I interpret the term "pause" to be. It implies that 'tension' for the purpose of the shot is relaxed. I don't ever want to relax the 'tension' and want it to continue to slowly build from the point I am anchored. A hinge, with or without a click can be shot without "pausing" the process, and IMO, deliberately pausing the process is counter productive. Maybe I am misinterpreting your use of the word though?


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## Ned250 (Aug 10, 2009)

Rolo said:


> ^^^Not exactly what you mean by the term "pause", but I don't pause my shot process when shooting a hinge with or without a click, unless I am letting down. For me, the element of starting, stopping, and starting again is counter-productive to my process, which is what I interpret the term "pause" to be. It implies that 'tension' for the purpose of the shot is relaxed. I don't ever want to relax the 'tension' and want it to continue to slowly build from the point I am anchored. A hinge, with or without a click can be shot without "pausing" the process, and IMO, deliberately pausing the process is counter productive. Maybe I am misinterpreting your use of the word though?


Pretty sure he means those that shoot a click like this:

draw
anchor
pull
CLICK
pull -> fire

I shoot it like you do, Rolo..... The click's an anchor confirmation only.
draw
anchor -> CLICK
pull -> fire


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## cbrunson (Oct 25, 2010)

Rolo said:


> ^^^Not exactly what you mean by the term "pause", but I don't pause my shot process when shooting a hinge with or without a click, unless I am letting down. For me, the element of starting, stopping, and starting again is counter-productive to my process, which is what I interpret the term "pause" to be. It implies that 'tension' for the purpose of the shot is relaxed. I don't ever want to relax the 'tension' and want it to continue to slowly build from the point I am anchored. A hinge, with or without a click can be shot without "pausing" the process, and IMO, deliberately pausing the process is counter productive. Maybe I am misinterpreting your use of the word though?


I have mine set really cold to prevent accidental firing. When I set at anchor, I rotate the hinge to the click and then start holding and pulling. I dont like pulling through the clicker. It makes me jumpy.


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## mosierls (Oct 2, 2013)

I have been shooting a hinge for about 18 months. I shoot a hinge with a safety and no click. Never tried a click before. I acquire the x, click the safety off, make a slight adjustment to grip by loading my middle and index finger very lightly, and then pull through. When I get to that part of my shot sequence I think to myself CLICK, GRIP, RIP..... shot goes off. Does this sound right or should I be doing something different.


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## ron w (Jan 5, 2013)

there's absolutely no sense in having the click, if you're just going to pull continuously through the click. the click is there tell you that the release is ready to fire and it's time to get serious about aiming and your release execution.
by "pause" I mean exactly that....a deliberate stop, or pause in your shot process at the click. you come to anchor, and rotate to the "click", it sounds and you stop your rotation there and then start your hard aim, settle in and initiate the release execution, from the position your release is in at the click.
when a click is in your shot sequence, you have to modify your "smooth, continuous pull through the shot" to accommodate the click. it's there to establish a consistent "starting point" from which you run your, "hard aim/release execution" sequence. the benefits are that your back tension execution always starts from the same position and the range of swing that rotates the release is consistent. which promotes a consistent timing for your shot. 
the key difference is that you consider the shot execution starting from the click, and not from the moment of anchor.....that's the purpose of the pause....it becomes the starting point for your shot.
the main confusion is that lots of guys fail to avoid starting their hard aim before the click. they get into that stare down before the click sounds and the click distracts them and shot goes haywire. before the click, you should only get anchored and acquire the target, then deliberately rotate into the anticipated "click", then, start your hard aim and settle into a float, followed by the release execution. all the click does is give you the starting point for your actual, serious shot.
that's why the moon is adjustable for position, when you have a click moon in your release. adjusting the moon's position gives you the position you start your hard aim and release execution from.
ideally the click should come just before your elbow is in line with the arrow, to the outside. then the amount of shelf defines how far you elbow must swing to effect the shot, and that amount of swing should be so that the shot breaks, just as the elbow lines up with the arrow and the direction it's going to fly. the click is there to establish that starting point for the rotation of your elbow, so the alignment arrives in the same amount of time as consistently as it can.
the key is to learn your float and set the moon's position so that after the click, when you start your hard aim, the shot breaks in that shot window. the click is designed to help establish that arrangement, by there being click moons with different shelf depths, to accommodate the amount of time in your BT execution it takes for the shot window to develop, after you start your hard aim.


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## Mahly (Dec 18, 2002)

I agree, perhaps it's just the terminology throwing some off.
Don't think of it as a "pause" but as another step. Same as you don't start your hard aiming and pull through the shot before you anchor, you don't do those till after the click.
For me, the click is a deliberate hand/finger movement. After the click it's pulling through the shot and NOT rolling it over with fingers.


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## Rolo (Dec 16, 2002)

cbrunson said:


> I have mine set really cold to prevent accidental firing. When I set at anchor, I rotate the hinge to the click and then start holding and pulling. I dont like pulling through the clicker. It makes me jumpy.





ron w said:


> there's absolutely no sense in having the click, if you're just going to pull continuously through the click. the click is there tell you that the release is ready to fire and it's time to get serious about aiming and your release execution.


Mine is set cold too, but that doesn't change how I shoot it. I also don't pull through the click, that defeats the purpose of the click. My release clicks when I settle into the anchor. There is no starting and stopping of the process. No deliberate manipulation of the release. It clicks as part of the process when I settle into my anchor, I don't even 'think' about it. I disagree that the click is some indication that the release is about to fire. The click tells me I am in the same starting position for the purpose of my shot process.



ron w said:


> by "pause" I mean exactly that....a deliberate stop, or pause in your shot process at the click. you come to anchor, and rotate to the "click", it sounds and you stop your rotation there and then start your hard aim, settle in and initiate the release execution, from the position your release is in at the click.


Yeah...I don't do it this way, and don't like the idea of starting and stopping. As I come to anchor, the release clicks, there is no pausing. Tension remains the same and continues to build through the shot.



ron w said:


> when a click is in your shot sequence, you have to modify your "smooth, continuous pull through the shot" to accommodate the click. it's there to establish a consistent "starting point" from which you run your, "hard aim/release execution" sequence. the benefits are that your back tension execution always starts from the same position and the range of swing that rotates the release is consistent. which promotes a consistent timing for your shot.


I agree that the click is used to establish the same "starting point" but disagree that there is any reason to modify the process between a click and a smooth moon. You don't have to modify the pull at all. 



ron w said:


> the key difference is that you consider the shot execution starting from the click, and not from the moment of anchor.....that's the purpose of the pause....it becomes the starting point for your shot.


My process starts, well really, when I hook the release on the string, but the execution of the shot, if there is a definitive beginning and ending starts with the anchor and proceeds through the aim. My release with a click, clicks as a settle into the anchor, and 99% of the time before I start looking through my peep. It's the same with a smooth moon. I don't like pauses.



ron w said:


> the main confusion is that lots of guys fail to avoid starting their hard aim before the click. they get into that stare down before the click sounds and the click distracts them and shot goes haywire. before the click, you should only get anchored and acquire the target, then deliberately rotate into the anticipated "click", then, start your hard aim and settle into a float, followed by the release execution. all the click does is give you the starting point for your actual, serious shot.


Yes on the confusion, a lot of people pull through the click, which is not the purpose of the click...letting you know its about ready to fire. I disagree about the series of steps that require the person to anchor, acquire the target, deliberately rotate to the click, (stop) and then start aiming through the shot. Too many steps, and too much time IMO. If the release clicks as a person settles into the anchor, the only remaining steps are to acquire the target and aim. No starting and stopping of anything.



ron w said:


> that's why the moon is adjustable for position, when you have a click moon in your release. adjusting the moon's position gives you the position you start your hard aim and release execution from.


That's why the moon is adjustable on the smooth side too. The rotational position of the release body relative to the preferences of the person shooting it. The click just gets a person to a consistent spot easier. 



ron w said:


> ideally the click should come just before your elbow is in line with the arrow, to the outside. then the amount of shelf defines how far you elbow must swing to effect the shot, and that amount of swing should be so that the shot breaks, just as the elbow lines up with the arrow and the direction it's going to fly. the click is there to establish that starting point for the rotation of your elbow, so the alignment arrives in the same amount of time as consistently as it can.


Yes, when I am settling into my anchor this is what happens. The release clicks. This is before any aiming ever begins.



ron w said:


> the key is to learn your float and set the moon's position so that after the click, when you start your hard aim, the shot breaks in that shot window. the click is designed to help establish that arrangement, by there being click moons with different shelf depths, to accommodate the amount of time in your BT execution it takes for the shot window to develop, after you start your hard aim.


I use the click to establish the same "starting point" every time. From that point, there is a window when I want the release to fire. That window is the same when I am shooting without the click. The ledge distance has never made a difference to me, the process has. I have shot ledges that are bigger faster, than I have shot smaller ledges. My shot timing is dependent on what is going on in the process.

My point, there's a whole lotta ways to skin a cat, and anything that requires me to stop the process is not conducive to my shooting. If the process stops, then I need to let down. From the time I draw my bow, it is one continuous process with not pauses, or stopping, at least if I am doing it right for me.


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## cbrunson (Oct 25, 2010)

Rolo said:


> Mine is set cold too, but that doesn't change how I shoot it. I also don't pull through the click, that defeats the purpose of the click. My release clicks when I settle into the anchor. There is no starting and stopping of the process. No deliberate manipulation of the release. It clicks as part of the process when I settle into my anchor, I don't even 'think' about it. I disagree that the click is some indication that the release is about to fire. The click tells me I am in the same starting position for the purpose of my shot process.


I think then the only difference is that I dont come into the click until after I anchor. I get the dot in the ball park and then rotate to the click, aim hard and start pulling. Our shot execution sounds pretty much the same.


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## ron w (Jan 5, 2013)

I guess by using the word "stop" to describe what I mean by "pause" was maybe wrong, all I was trying to do was clarify what I meant by "pause". sometimes it's hard to use the right words when you need to describe an action that most people know very little to nothing about.
if your process is one continuous action, you might as well not have the click in the process, at that point all it's doing is making a noise.
you can't change how hot or cold a click is set, that's predetermined by the shelf depth of the click. that's why they make different shelf depths. you choose the depth that coincides to your execution speed and where your shot window appears as you load the shot at the same speed every time...all done after the click.
if you don't understand you don't understand the real reason we establish the shot window time. I did say that it is used to establish the same starting point for your hard aim and release execution, the verbiage I used, "to indicate the release is ready to fire", was simply a way to make it clear to those who don't know the process....I've been accused of explaining things in a too advanced wordage for the beginner shooters. you have to consider there are allot of guys reading this that are only just trying to figure things out.
getting to anchor and then rolling into the click, is exactly how Zenith described doing it back when they introduced the click hinges.
" what is going on in the process" is exactly why we choose a ledge (or shelf) that coincides with the time element that elapses between start of hard aim and the shot breaking. that element of time is the time needed to let the shot window develop. if you don't coordinate those two elements, you won't get the shot to break inside the shot window. neither the window, or the time elapsed running the execution should be tampered with, if you alter your execution to break when you "see" the shot window, you are command shooting.

more later, it's super time!


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## sharkred7 (Jul 19, 2005)

whitbri said:


> i use the click. Just a reference for starting the shot process. Dudley and ulmer we're referencing the guys learning backtension after tp issues not use of the click overall. Plenty of world class archers using a click. My advice is if you are using it get to it quickly after anchor and use it to start your execution don't shoot two shots with the click being an interruption between the first and starting over and shooting again.



exactly!!


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## ArcherXXX300 (Apr 22, 2013)

I've tried click and no click but prefer the click. My coach noted that if my release clicked right as the bow string touched my nose it was usually an X. I draw and before I come into anchor I drop my thumb from the pulling post and basically as soon as the string touches my nose and I come into anchor the release clicks. I may stick with it or change IDK yet. I like it as a safety as well although it can lead to anticipation of the shot.


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## Lungbustah (Oct 4, 2010)

I feel the same way about the click with my scott hex. It takes too long for it to go off after the click. I've tried getting different moons for it but Scott tells me they don't make different ones. I might have to tell them it's for a longhorn instead. I also bought zenith moons but haven't tried them because they look completely different than the one that came with it.


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## mod10g (Dec 18, 2006)

No click for me, it causes me to have tension in my arms when I hear the click after I have used it for a while, no click seems to make for a smoother shot process for me, one less step in my routine.


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## ron w (Jan 5, 2013)

that's the whole problem, ...
what causes the tension is that you start your shot before the click sounds. whether your click is set up to be there as you anchor, or you have to rotate into the click, after you anchor, it doesn't matter one bit. the purpose of the click, is to start your shot from the click, and not before it. when you start before the click...the click may as well not be there, because at that point the click is nothing more than a distraction. 
there's absolutely no reason for the click to be there, what-so-ever, if it's just there to make a noise, as you continually pull through the shot, am I right? what do you need the noise for?
that click is there for you to do something about it being there.....who, here can tell me what that is?. and who here, can describe the difference between a release with a click set up to click as you anchor, or one set up to click after anchor, so that you have to rotate into the click.
I don't want to hear " they aren't supposed to be set up to have to rotate into the click", because that is not at all true. the original intent of using a click, was exactly that...."anchor, and then rotate to the click', was the actual suggested method of use, in all the instructions.. 
so if you are going start your hard aim and your shot execution, before the click and then pull continuously through the click......what is it's purpose for being there?...tell me?


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## lknchoppers (Jun 13, 2008)

Lungbustah said:


> I feel the same way about the click with my scott hex. It takes too long for it to go off after the click. I've tried getting different moons for it but Scott tells me they don't make different ones. I might have to tell them it's for a longhorn instead. I also bought zenith moons but haven't tried them because they look completely different than the one that came with it.


If you think it's too cold after the click most likely your click is too deep. This means the sear gets stuck in the click which is nothing more than a small groove. If you want to make it hotter you can try to dress the sear with a sharpening stone. If you think about what's happening it is pretty simple, imagine the sear is riding along the moon and as you apply your back tension the handle and moon rotate until the sear goes over the edge of the moon and then your release fires. With a click, there is a groove right at the edge of the moon the sear drops into. The sear usually has a very square machined edge. If you can't get a shallower groove you can round the edge of the sear slightly so it takes less rotational pressure to move over the groove. There is some trial and error dressing the sear, you just do a little at a time to you get the speed you want. It could prematurely fire and you may have to square up the edge a little to slow it down. When you are doing this just be careful and be prepared for the bow to fire at different points until you get it set how you like it. Just shoot close up at a target and be careful not to fire the release when drawing. I have never really had a problem doing this but I always draw my bow with my index finger only.


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## lknchoppers (Jun 13, 2008)

You are absolutely right. The click is there as a reference point so you can get your hand and fingers and the release to the same position before aiming hard and pulling. If you don't use the click that way it will just wear you out and cause problems. Most of the releases I tried with clickers in them (my opinion) we not that great. The click depth was way too deep and the release would take a lot more pressure after the click to rotate and fire. This is why I use Zenith a hinge now, Joe the owner of Zenith will custom fit the moon and sear and set the click how you want it. You can tell him I want a hot .006" or a cold .004" click. I found this made a huge difference for me. Most of the hinges I saw from Scott and other companies focus their efforts on the handle and don't offer much for customizing the click depths. I tried a Carter 2 moons I think it was called that addressed the problem of click depths but it still didn't allow for the feel of tailoring the stamped click and sear in my opinion, the Zenith was better for me in that respect.




ron w said:


> that's the whole problem, ...
> what causes the tension is that you start your shot before the click sounds. whether your click is set up to be there as you anchor, or you have to rotate into the click, after you anchor, it doesn't matter one bit. the purpose of the click, is to start your shot from the click, and not before it. when you start before the click...the click may as well not be there, because at that point the click is nothing more than a distraction.
> there's absolutely no reason for the click to be there, what-so-ever, if it's just there to make a noise, as you continually pull through the shot, am I right? what do you need the noise for?
> that click is there for you to do something about it being there.....who, here can tell me what that is?. and who here, can describe the difference between a release with a click set up to click as you anchor, or one set up to click after anchor, so that you have to rotate into the click.
> ...


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## bigbuck270 (Oct 12, 2006)

Since this thread started I've been experimenting with the click so I could weigh in. "I" find it extremely useful. I draw, anchor, click and then start my pull all in one movement. I do not aim aim aim until I hear the click. One thing I did notice was a little more consistency in the force needed for the hinge to break. Sometimes I could get the release to click right when anchoring, other times I would have to rotate my hand a little to get to the click. One thing it does, is provide one more way to ensure you are starting in the same spot. 

Is a click needed, no. Do I shoot better with it, unnoticeable. It will however, give people one more way to know they are repeating their shot a close as possible every time. 

Like most things in archery, it's up to the shooter on what feels best.


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## ron w (Jan 5, 2013)

to those who say that their click sounds as they reach anchor, and that they don't modify their shot process to accommodate the click......
they have no idea of what they are saying......
that click sounding at anchor, "IS" the pause. you anchor is your "pause" in your shot process where you establish the starting point of your shot. what happens before the click is separate from what happens after the click.....you, you have paused there, establishing your anchor and you have modified your shot process to actions, "before the click and after the click", simply by establishing and acknowledging the point at which the click sounds, as the pause and not starting your "hard aim, and/or release execution, until after the click sounds.
some guys do it that way, and some do it by rotating into the click, after they anchor....which ever way makes no difference, you have acknowledged a modified process by separating what you do before the click from what you do after the click.


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## deermyster (Jun 18, 2016)

To me using a click only induces anticipation and eventually leads right back into target panic. I shoot tighter groups without a click than I do with it. With the click it tells me release is about to fire and causes a sense of wanting to time the release which throws a surprise release right out the window. Set one up with click that want fire and see how much jump or movement you see when it goes off. Without the click I also focus more on aiming than thinking about release.when click goes off I automatically think about release firing and takes my mind off of focusing on my target.


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## AJ the TP Guru (Jul 29, 2011)

Thinking I've had more guys with TP tell me they just got worse with the clicker. I know that back when I was flailing around trying to find something that worked, a clicker was definitely one of those things that didn't.


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## Rick! (Aug 10, 2008)

deermyster said:


> To me using a click only induces anticipation and eventually leads right back into target panic.


I disagree. 
Maybe for some with a lack of mental fortitude may self-induce TP using a click but not in my case. Aside from creating a consistent point in the shot process, a click teaches one how to draw the bow. When it clicks early in the draw, you got lazy. A smooth moon won't tell you that until the arrow leaves way before aiming starts.

One could argue that a cold hinge without a click could promote drive-by or command shooting due to poor technique or poor hinge fundamentals as excessive hand tension inhibits rotation. Which, of course, leads back to the same issue one is trying to cure.


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## hrtlnd164 (Mar 22, 2008)

Simply put you are aiming before clicking so the click disrupts the minds focus. Use the click as a starting point to your aiming/execution process and it will become it's own step in the process and not a disruption to another step.. The click should be a 'go' signal, not a 'stop' signal...


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## bowfisher (Jan 21, 2003)

hrtlnd164 said:


> Simply put you are aiming before clicking so the click disrupts the minds focus. Use the click as a starting point to your aiming/execution process and it will become it's own step in the process and not a disruption to another step.. The click should be a 'go' signal, not a 'stop' signal...


 

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## carlosii (Feb 25, 2007)

Since this thread started I've been trying to work through my TP. I started with a wrist strap but that was not the answer.
I had been shooting a Tru Ball Sweet Spot Pro 4 finger but the results were a disaster. Somehow I misplaced it at Ft. Benning and so I dug out my old Tru Ball HT with a clicker.
I blank baled with both the strap and the HT, finally giving up on the strap.
After reading some of the comments here I managed to modify my shot process to include coming to the click and then begin the aiming process.
I ain't whipped TP yet, but I have managed to get to the point where at 40 yards I'm keeping two out of three arrows in the 10 ring. I credit my revised shot process for my improvement and a big part of that has been incorporating the click into that process.
But that's just me.


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## Mahly (Dec 18, 2002)

A click made me more confident in using a hinge, and thus beating TP.
It's how you use the click. If it freaks you out, you are doing it wrong.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

I would think that the "click" may be heaven or hell depending on thousand's of the click. Joe, of old Zenith archery, told that .004" click was pretty much wrong for some one starting out and not all that popular with avid hinge users. He advised .006" and my Zenith goes off too dang fast. .008" might be better. Don't know what my TRU Ball HT with click is, but far nicer. I also had a Scott Halo and it had one of the worst clicks, "about .008" was Scott's reply. Maybe .008", but it felt hard to set off....Padgett likened to trying to pull out of ditch....


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## dk-1 (Aug 9, 2013)

Ned250 said:


> Pretty sure he means those that shoot a click like this:
> 
> draw
> anchor
> ...


Yep, this is the ONLY way to shoot a hinge with a click in my opinion.


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## wv hoyt man (Feb 17, 2012)

Anchor your self all up and then set the click. After you click that is when you focus really hard and make the shot.
I believe you will want to set the click as light as possible so after the click and you are ready to fire it is only a small amount of pressure needed to release the arrow.


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