# Bear montana longbow ?



## thorwulfx (Sep 26, 2011)

From what I could gather, it looks like the recommended range is between 7.5 and 8.5 inches. With a string either 1) 3 inches shorter than bows actual length (where strings are sold by *actual* length) or 2) a string marketed for the same AMO length as the bow, you'll want to string it, let the bow sit there for a while, and measure the brace height. Often, it'll be somewhere in that range. If it's too low, twist the string up by maybe five twists at a time until you get to the minimum side of the range. Shoot it a little and see if it feels/sounds right. If it's rough and loud, you'll need to twist some more until it starts to behave.

In my experience, I've usually been able to keep string fiddling to a minimum as long as I get the right length string to begin with. You may want to keep your nocking point a little loose as the string settles in, as string stretch could slightly alter your position and cause you some headaches.

Good luck.


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## 05allegiance (Sep 11, 2008)

Yea, have the string. The guy I got it from has the string completely unwound, just needed a starting point to begin with... 

Thanks


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## 05allegiance (Sep 11, 2008)

So I ended up at 8 inches and beaver balls...= super quiet, just doesn't seem to fling them as fast as my recurve, same poundage.


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

05allegiance said:


> So I ended up at 8 inches and beaver balls...= super quiet, just doesn't seem to fling them as fast as my recurve, same poundage.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 It is rare that a longbow will cast the same as a recurve. I've a hybrid that does... or very close at any rate. The recurve limbs act as extra limb length, from what I understand and as such provide a longer launch pulse.... and more acceleration... or some such anyways... :grin: They are faster... recurves that is...

Aloha.. :beer:


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## thorwulfx (Sep 26, 2011)

The Montana, if I remember correctly, has only a very mild reflex in the limbs. This shape, while tending to give you a quiet bow, isn't a speed setup. In the search for recurve-like speed out of a longbow, some designs put so much reflex/deflex in the limbs that they come very close to becoming recurves themselves. With similar materials, it'll often take several more pounds of draw for a traditional D-shaped longbow to make the power that a recurve does. That doesn't make a longbow a bad design, it just means that any bow shape comes with its own drawbacks and advantages. If you like the way longbows shoot, and find that you can be more accurate with one, then it's worth the loss of efficiency. A slow arrow that hits is better than a fast one that misses, right?


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

thorwulfx said:


> The Montana, if I remember correctly, has only a very mild reflex in the limbs. This shape, while tending to give you a quiet bow, isn't a speed setup. In the search for recurve-like speed out of a longbow, some designs put so much reflex/deflex in the limbs that they come very close to becoming recurves themselves. With similar materials, it'll often take several more pounds of draw for a traditional D-shaped longbow to make the power that a recurve does. That doesn't make a longbow a bad design, it just means that any bow shape comes with its own drawbacks and advantages. If you like the way longbows shoot, and find that you can be more accurate with one, then it's worth the loss of efficiency. A slow arrow that hits is better than a fast one that misses, right?


Longbows, especially those with locator grips, in my case, are easy to shoot, and if properly designed (and her I'm talking a hybrid.) has next to zero shock and vibration. My 60# Martin has a locator grip and very little handshock and no torque issues. Longbows may not be fast, but they're a blast to hunt and shoot with and are quite tolerant of poor form.

Aloha.. :beer:


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