# Bow Stabilizers



## 1/2 Bubble Off (Dec 29, 2016)

I'm not a recurve guy but shoot long bars on my 3D and Spot bows.... I will say that just using a long bar without a back bar doesn't work very well. The idea of the stabs is to move the center of gravity on the bow. When you have just a long bar sticking out the front, you move the center of gravity out beyond where you are strongest. In other words, it makes it harder to control. That bar acts as a lever and wants to pull the front of the bow down resulting in low shots. 

I like a 28" bar (with weights and damper, it's closer to 30"). I don't know if it's my grip (or what else it could be) but I struggled with a 30" bar.

I'd recommend buying a SET of bars and playing with combinations to find what works best for you.


----------



## Sgt. Rock (Sep 15, 2021)

Thanks 1/2 Bubble Off!


----------



## Hikari (May 15, 2021)

I would just start with something that will fit in your bag. I think in this case, experience is going to be good. You might even play with two cheap long rods of different sizes just to figure out the dynamic.

Also, this is a god read: Controlling Bow Behaviour with Stabilisers (Ellison, PDF)


----------



## dogrhal (8 mo ago)

Just my 2 cents 

I shoot older compounds have a couple target models.

I was always like those long bars look like Olympics/

Well, I like and will buy used when they pop up long fronts and 12" bars on the V
Man talk about stability,

I am amazed at how the getting older "shakes" go away

Good luck


----------



## Sgt. Rock (Sep 15, 2021)

Hikari said:


> I would just start with something that will fit in your bag. I think in this case, experience is going to be good. You might even play with two cheap long rods of different sizes just to figure out the dynamic.
> 
> Also, this is a god read: Controlling Bow Behaviour with Stabilisers (Ellison, PDF)


Hikari, Your suggestion was what I thought might be the best way to break into stabilizers. The first response to my post said that using just a long bar doesn't work well as it makes it harder to control and suggests having a full set up to balance things out. What is your thought on this?


----------



## Flyinhawaiian (Nov 2, 2018)

I would start with 28” - 30”. We have a similar DL, and I shoot my Oly ILF set up with a 30” to have the advantage of the weight being further from the riser. If you have never shot with a stabilizer before, I suggest you may want to start with a cheap 28”, and buy your expensive carbon dream stab in a 30” later on.


----------



## Sgt. Rock (Sep 15, 2021)

Thanks to all who responded! Very helpful!


----------



## MD Target Archer (5 mo ago)

Hikari said:


> I would just start with something that will fit in your bag. I think in this case, experience is going to be good. You might even play with two cheap long rods of different sizes just to figure out the dynamic.
> 
> Also, this is a god read: Controlling Bow Behaviour with Stabilisers (Ellison, PDF)


Great read, thanks for the info.


----------



## "TheBlindArcher" (Jan 27, 2015)

I have an extremely scientific approach to selecting my front bar length... Whatever lets me rest it on the ground and balance the bow in my hand while loading an arrow or between shots. Everything else, weights, back bars, etc, works off that criteria


----------



## wlleven (Feb 19, 2005)

In general, for a person 5'9" to 5'11", a 27" to 30" stabilizer fits the bill along with 12" side bar/s depending recurve or compound. Some shooters like the 15" side bar as it offers a lot of leverage with less weight on the end compared to a 12" bar.

In windy conditions many like a shorter front rod (18"-24") and more weight to fight the wind.

Doinker Bill


----------



## CaptJD (5 mo ago)

1/2 Bubble Off said:


> I'm not a recurve guy but shoot long bars on my 3D and Spot bows.... I will say that just using a long bar without a back bar doesn't work very well. The idea of the stabs is to move the center of gravity on the bow. When you have just a long bar sticking out the front, you move the center of gravity out beyond where you are strongest. In other words, it makes it harder to control. That bar acts as a lever and wants to pull the front of the bow down resulting in low shots.
> 
> I like a 28" bar (with weights and damper, it's closer to 30"). I don't know if it's my grip (or what else it could be) but I struggled with a 30" bar.
> 
> I'd recommend buying a SET of bars and playing with combinations to find what works best for you.



Would you please explain what did you mean in that sentence with "struggle"? I am as new as they come into archery and sorry if it's a dumb question but what was happening that negatively effected you when you tried 30" bar and not with the 28" bar?

I am at that stage in my archery too. Just got my Elite Rezult 38 and thinking about the stabilizers but I was wondering how those of you out there figured it out? All trial and error method or is there a formula...
Just curious...


----------



## Road_Clam (Aug 24, 2021)

I'm going against the stab fanboys, i'm a new shooter and in a deep learning curve, and currently I shoot better WITHOUT stabs. Stabs do increase your ability to hold steady, stabs also add weight which hinders your ability for a steady holed especially after shooting 30+ arrows from added arm fatigue . (strictly just my new shooter experience)


----------



## 1/2 Bubble Off (Dec 29, 2016)

CaptJD said:


> Would you please explain what did you mean in that sentence with "struggle"? I am as new as they come into archery and sorry if it's a dumb question but what was happening that negatively effected you when you tried 30" bar and not with the 28" bar?
> 
> I am at that stage in my archery too. Just got my Elite Rezult 38 and thinking about the stabilizers but I was wondering how those of you out there figured it out? All trial and error method or is there a formula...
> Just curious...


When I say I struggled with the longer bar... I felt like the longer bar was fighting me... I had a 28" bar prior and found a deal on a 30" bar so I took a chance. I felt as though I never really found a combination that worked well enough for me. My scores dropped until I went back to my 28" bar.

I read an article someone posted on FB that recommended folks start with a front bar that is close to their DL. I don't know that it would work well for everyone but, I was happier with a 28" bar and my DL is 28.5".



Road_Clam said:


> I'm going against the stab fanboys, i'm a new shooter and in a deep learning curve, and currently I shoot better WITHOUT stabs. Stabs do increase your ability to hold steady, stabs also add weight which hinders your ability for a steady holed especially after shooting 30+ arrows from added arm fatigue . (strictly just my new shooter experience)


There was a time where I felt like this.... I was convinced that Stabilizers did 2 things:

1) Made your bow heavier
2) Made your wallet lighter

I even sold all of my stabs in favor of just a vibration damper.... Then I helped my buddy tune his spot bow (this was years prior to opening a shop)... I shot his bow and was amazed at how well it held on target with his long bars. 

I decided to try another set... This time buying better quality bars and having been taught how to properly set them up... Now I wonder how I ever shot without them!!!!!


----------



## Road_Clam (Aug 24, 2021)

1/2 Bubble Off said:


> When I say I struggled with the longer bar... I felt like the longer bar was fighting me... I had a 28" bar prior and found a deal on a 30" bar so I took a chance. I felt as though I never really found a combination that worked well enough for me. My scores dropped until I went back to my 28" bar.
> 
> I read an article someone posted on FB that recommended folks start with a front bar that is close to their DL. I don't know that it would work well for everyone but, I was happier with a 28" bar and my DL is 28.5".
> 
> ...


I have a set of older used 15/30 Doinkers that I bought and not going to sell them. I'm sure at some point I will get back to stabs, but currently they just seem to add inconsistency to my overall groups vs a bare bow. And I totally agree with you, another negative with stabs is the fact i'm most likely NOT setting them up correctly per my shooting style.


----------



## Corene1 (Apr 27, 2014)

Sgt. Rock said:


> Hello, I would like some feedback on how I could determine a starting length for a target bow stabilizer. I have been shooting a target bow for almost a year (not competitively) and would like to try a stabilizer. I would probably start with a front stabilizer first to get aquainted with them and then move on to adding side mounts and a V-bar. I have read several articles that recommend the main stabilizer should be at or a litte less than your draw length. I have read other articles that say it should be 1 - 3 inches longer than your draw length. I understand that it is a trial and error thing but I would like to get some suggestions as to a starting length to get me in the ballpark. I have a recurve riser (ILF compatable) with 20Lb. limbs and a 27" draw length. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


From your post I would assume that you are wanting to shoot Olympic style recurve with a sight and full stabilizer set up, but you may also be shooting a non sighted class as well. Not knowing what division you are wanting to shoot makes it difficult to make a recommendation for stabilizer set up. In truth it doesn't take a big complicated set up to help settle your bow down. For starters I would start with something like a 10 inch stabilizer up front with a dampener and about 4 to 6 ounces of weight on the end this will make the stabilizer 12 inches overall keeping it legal for some traditional non sighted classes. This will let you feel the difference that it will make on your set up and help guide future purchases. If you want to evolve into a full v-bar and front stabilizer you can then get a matching 10 inch stab and use both of them for the v-bars and add a new front bar. Again I am guessing , but at 20 pounds and a 27 inch draw I am thinking stay shorter on the front rod, 26 to 28 inches and around 4 to 6 ounces up front and maybe 2 to 3 ounces on the back bars. Believe it or not a full stabilizer set up adds a bunch of weight to the bow which may put a strain on your bow arm. Ultimately it is hard to describe the perfect set up for you as each person has so many variables and preferences to feel and reaction of the stabilizers. I shoot this style of stabilizer but add a Doinker vibration dampener between the rod and the weights. They are reasonable and work quite well, and are available in quite a few lengths. Check the threading on the stabilizer you choose , some are 1/4 -20 and others are 5/16-24 thread , that will decide on what dampener to get. Shrewd S2 Series Side Rod (10").


----------



## Ray.L (Apr 29, 2021)

Road_Clam said:


> I'm going against the stab fanboys, i'm a new shooter and in a deep learning curve, and currently I shoot better WITHOUT stabs. Stabs do increase your ability to hold steady, stabs also add weight which hinders your ability for a steady holed especially after shooting 30+ arrows from added arm fatigue . (strictly just my new shooter experience)


Well, yes. Just like draw weight, too much bow weight is unmanageable if you're not conditioned for it.


----------

