# I cant wait!



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

what cam's on the crx? 1,2? the fuel cams have a way diff feel between sizes and how they are timed, just a fyi

Yeah, i liked the zxt more too, but don't limit yourself to just those... try a few more and try the one you want against them to see if it is the one you want


----------



## muzzyman1212 (Mar 28, 2009)

N7709K said:


> what cam's on the crx? 1,2? the fuel cams have a way diff feel between sizes and how they are timed, just a fyi
> 
> Yeah, i liked the zxt more too, but don't limit yourself to just those... try a few more and try the one you want against them to see if it is the one you want


x2.


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

I dont know what cams were on it I just shot the feature bows for it.


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

And yeah when I go there again when I got enough money im gonna shoot more bows to make sure it's the one I want. And i will try to remember to ask them about the cams, see if I can shoot it with both cams on so I can see the difference.


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

what drawlength?

do yourself a favor and shoot the z7 magnum..


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

Well the z7 was at 28 the crx 29 Im a 26 It was just the bow they let everyone shoot and they didnt have a 26in setup so I shot those. Yeah im gonna shoot probably 6 bows and see what one i like the best and ill have them put a 26in cam on them.


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

ok, they won't stock a crx 32 with number ones more than likely.. not too many short draw people.. they will have a 27" probably but thats on the edge between number 1's and 2's..


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

what bows do you think I should shoot when I go up there again. For sure I wanna shoot the z7 extreme and crx again I was thinking about a maxxis what others?


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

z7 magnum, maxxis 31 if they have one, monster 6, destroyer 340

i would say try a maxxis 35, but you can't get one with xtr's in 26" and a burner but they are a pain to change dl with


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

They have a whole rack of maxxis 31's and 35's if thats the one I decide to get it will be 100-200 dollars cheaper =).


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

if i shoot the z7 extreme do you think i should shoot the z7? Do they shoot pretty much the same?


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

if you can you should.. the 28" ata isn't all that forgiving on longer shots or for those with less than perfect form


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

ok I can shoot pretty much any hoyt or mathews the place I go to has them all. but thats all they carry I think unless its a used bow.


----------



## outdoorsman3 (Nov 15, 2010)

if you want to save a little dough, try the hoyt rampage xt, if you want a 1k bow, I would for sure try out the EZ7, I think that looks like a sweet bow, just my does pesos


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

I'm gonna buy whatever I like best. I will have enough money but not enough for a carbon series bow. I'm making a list of the bows that I want to try out. I'm at 6 right now. I'm gonna add the rampage to my list but im thinking I dont want it because I have heard that it's made with a less durable material so it seems like it could brake easier.


----------



## outdoorsman3 (Nov 15, 2010)

I dont know, I have it and it seems to take my damage, if you dont get outdoor life magazine I can send you a link or just list them off, but OL just had the compound bow best of the test awards givin out.


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

I dont get that magazine. What were the like top 10?


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

rampage are cast mg risers that are then machined.. the rest are machined alu risers

just because its cast mg doesn't mean it is sub par quality


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

Ok I was just reading about it and some people were saying it's bad because of that.


----------



## outdoorsman3 (Nov 15, 2010)

I dont really like the fuel cams TBH, but its still a nice bow.


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

It shot nice but I didnt really like the feel of it when I drew it and after I shot it.


----------



## outdoorsman3 (Nov 15, 2010)

I like how it lets off, but I dont like the draw, its kind of hard. I have had times where I had it at full and it just came back at rest position.


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

Well also It was a 29 in draw and im 26in so once i got to where it would break over it was hard to draw back the rest of the way I might like it more when I shoot it with the correct dl.


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

The Z7 Mag is a great bow also. N7709K definitely knows what he's talking about.

Jake


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

I have a list of 8 bows that I want to shoot as of now and the z7 Mag is one of them.


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> I have a list of 8 bows that I want to shoot as of now and the z7 Mag is one of them.


Would you mind putting it on here?? Cuz we could give you some pros and cons.

Jake


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

ok z7 extreme, z7 Mag, z7, crx 32, rampage xt, Alphaburner, monster 6, maxxis 31. Those are the 8 i'm willing to add more or drop some just kinda what I was thinking about shooting.


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

sounds like a good list.. spend a couple hrs shooting all the ones on your list and talk to the people at the shop about what they are getting for real world speed, accuracy, etc


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

I'm kinda hoping to like a hoyt better because then I have 2in to change my dl in most cases. But if i get a mathews I will have to keep changing the cams which isnt that bad just more money, but if i like a mathews better im going to get it.


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

N7709K said:


> sounds like a good list.. spend a couple hrs shooting all the ones on your list and talk to the people at the shop about what they are getting for real world speed, accuracy, etc


Yeah exactly spend about 15-20 minutes shooting each bow so you get the real fel.

Jake


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

Should I have them set up every bow with a 26in draw or just shoot all of them and then the top 3 i like have them switch it to a 26in draw?


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> Should I have them set up every bow with a 26in draw or just shoot all of them and then the top 3 i like have them switch it to a 26in draw?


I'd shoot all of them at whatever they're set at. And shoot like 10 arrows and the one you like the least take it out of the mix, do the same thing til you're down to one bow. They prolly won't switch to a diff draw length.

Jake


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

archerykid13 said:


> I'd shoot all of them at whatever they're set at. And shoot like 10 arrows and the one you like the least take it out of the mix, do the same thing til you're down to one bow. They prolly won't switch to a diff draw length.
> 
> Jake


Ok thanks I'll do that


----------



## Ignition kid (Oct 7, 2008)

N7709K said:


> what drawlength?
> 
> do yourself a favor and shoot the z7 magnum..


+1, I shot a Z7 magnum that was 1" too long for me and I liked it, it drawed like my Z7, it had a little vibration and wasn't AS smooth as my Z7 but I would have one, but shoot a regular Z7 as well since they are still really good, I REALLY like mine and I mean it, also I would try an MR7 since I have heard people that shot them and a Z7 and liked the M7 better and that was 2010 but that's not everybody.


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

If you have the option shoot the mathews at 65% letoff


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

N7709K said:


> If you have the option shoot the mathews at 65% letoff


Yeah. I prefer a smaller letoff too. It might help you out.

Jake


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

lower letoff rolls over into the valley much better than higher and it will shoot better scores on target


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

N7709K said:


> lower letoff rolls over into the valley much better than higher and it will shoot better scores on target


Yeah.

Jake


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

N7709K said:


> lower letoff rolls over into the valley much better than higher and it will shoot better scores on target


Why would it shoot better scores? Does it make it easier to hold it steadier somehow or somthing?


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

lower letoff does a couple things, you add holding weight which makes holding on target much easier. It also makes teh transition into the valley much better, keeping the arrows on the rest(blade) and making the bow easier to shoot consistently if you creep and don't address the issue. depending on the bow/cam setup when you go to lower letoff setting, for example my ve+ with spirals the lowest letoff i can get without twisting things is 55%. The 55% letoff shortens the valley and forces you to pull into the wall and not creep, this in itself will lead to better scores


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

How do you know so much about bows and 3d! lol.


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

and what is creeping? is it when you kinda let down then come back to full draw?


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> How do you know so much about bows and 3d! lol.


Because Jacob is a freakin animal!!

Jake


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

Is it wierd if when I draw back and try to get on a X I am always low of it and it is hard to bring my sight up to it? If it is like a real problem how would I fix it?


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

archerykid13 said:


> Because Jacob is a freakin animal!!
> 
> Jake


I mean he freaking knows about everything to do with archery!


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> Is it wierd if when I draw back and try to get on a X I am always low of it and it is hard to bring my sight up to it? If it is like a real problem how would I fix it?


I did the same thing. I would pull back and be low on the X and I couldn't bring it up. I fixed it by drawing higher and just dropping down.

Jake


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> I mean he freaking knows about everything to do with archery!


Yeah. He's definitely a pro at archery.

Jake


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

I just drew back how I normally would and i had that problem then I did what you said and it worked at least when im aiming at a door knob lol.


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> I just drew back how I normally would and i had that problem then I did what you said and it worked at least when im aiming at a door knob lol.


Haha thats good. Just try that next time you're at the range and see how it works.

Jake


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> and what is creeping? is it when you kinda let down then come back to full draw?


more or less, creeping is relaxing forward while at fulldraw and creeping away from your anchor. Moves the peep, changes the position of the hand on the face, changes powerstroke.. its bad, but more over its very hard to do exactly the same everytime.



Bugs Bunnyy said:


> How do you know so much about bows and 3d! lol.


been around for a bit, hung out in shops and here.. but more over i played around and decided i wanna be able to work on my own stuff.



Bugs Bunnyy said:


> Is it wierd if when I draw back and try to get on a X I am always low of it and it is hard to bring my sight up to it? If it is like a real problem how would I fix it?


freezing, as described above is a form of tp. if you can fix if by changing how you settle into the shot, great. if not the sure fire way is to go to a bt release and learn to shoot a hinge.. it will take a while but it will help, i used to freeze low also.. broke down learned bt and haven't looked back.


Thanks guys for the kind words, i wouldn't say i'm pro yet.. but i am taking the plunge and testing the waters with both feet. decided that i'm gonna step up and play with the big boys


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

I have read stuff about bt does it really take like 2 months of never shooting and it takes like a total of 4 months to learn it?


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

yes and no. in all honesty it should take about two months to go from learning the release on a string to shooting the bow at 20yds+, but it all depends on what is going on. 

when you start out with any new release that isn't a strap, you wanna start by shooting on a string. I have a morrin trainer that i shoot on and its great, but you can make a string for a couple bucks or less. shoot off the string for a couple weeks to a month to get the release down, this can be done at any time. so while you are learnign the release on the string you can keep shooting your bow. after you have the release down, couple weeks.. then you take the sight off the bow and blank bale for a week or two until it is a very fluid process and you have it down. after that start at 5yds with the sight back on and start shooting.. when you can shoot 60x games, move back to 7yds.. then 10.. and work your way back to 20yds a couple at a time..


----------



## outdoorkid1 (Nov 20, 2010)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> I have read stuff about bt does it really take like 2 months of never shooting and it takes like a total of 4 months to learn it?


I tried learning it with my wrist strap release. Tried it for about a week and it just wasn't comfortable to me. I went back to slowly squeezing the trigger and have since been shooting great. I do want to try and learn back tension again sometime, and then I will do it with a real back tension release. I think it will take about 6 months to learn back tension correctly and then a few years to master it completly ( for me anyway).


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

What bt release would you recommend?


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

http://grivtech.com/

for those interested in a good vid about shot sequence, watch the one here.

Outdoor, depending on if you commit fully to bt or not, you can have it mastered in a year. you will see your scores drop a bit, but they will come back and then top out over what they used to be. its one of the things that takes time, if you start slow and work your way into a bow it will go smoother.

Bugs, for a release i would suggest either a bt gold ultra 3, ht 3m, or a tru tension ultra 3. I've played with a few releases and my favorite is teh bt gold handle with i made up with an older truball tru tension head. I learned on the ht 3 and it is a sweet release and pretty easy to learn on


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

N7709K said:


> http://grivtech.com/
> 
> for those interested in a good vid about shot sequence, watch the one here.
> 
> ...


Jacob listed some great releases. The HT3 is my favorite and the one I learned on also. I have a HT3 and a Carter Only. The thing with BT is that you can't just grab a bow and start shooting. You have to ease into it like Jacob said. Follow what Jacob said about the string. It will help you a lot. When you hear stories about guys punching themselves in the mouth is probably because they just started shooting. I would do blank bale for quite awhile also. It helps you to just get the release down and if you can shoot blank bale with your eyes closed. Do it from about 5 yds or so. It might be tough learning it but after you've got it down you'll really be happy with yourself.

Jake


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> I have read stuff about bt does it really take like 2 months of never shooting and it takes like a total of 4 months to learn it?


It depends on what you're learning curve is. If you can pick things up real quick it can be easy.

Jake


----------



## Ignition kid (Oct 7, 2008)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> Why would it shoot better scores? Does it make it easier to hold it steadier somehow or somthing?


ya, because you are having a little more holding weight and it will make you hold a little steadier for most people.

also if u can, I would consider shooting a MR6 or MR7 since they say they are a little smoother than the older ones, although I got my Monster yesterday and I REALLY like it, it doesnt draw bad at all and is pretty quiet and doesnt really have any vibration at all and I am shooting it as good as my Z7 and that's with it having a half inch too long draw length.


----------



## Ignition kid (Oct 7, 2008)

outdoorkid1 said:


> I tried learning it with my wrist strap release. Tried it for about a week and it just wasn't comfortable to me. I went back to slowly squeezing the trigger and have since been shooting great. I do want to try and learn back tension again sometime, and then I will do it with a real back tension release. I think it will take about 6 months to learn back tension correctly and then a few years to master it completly ( for me anyway).


ya well I got it to where with my wrist strap I can shoot back-tension it just took some dedication to get it to work that's all.


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

Clint, over the summer if you took up shooting with a hinge and put the bows down for a bit and learned a hinge and how to shoot one.. your groups would probably tighten up if you went back to your other release. 

I haven't shot a scott for a while, but the last time i did i do remember the trigger being set to when it was pulled jaw opened.. when it was forward jaw was closed. super nice release, and i'm not knocking them for sure, but with a non static trigger(atleast on the one i tried) it is very difficult to shoot bt correctly with one


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

Do you think i will be able to shoot better once i get the new bow? Just because it is more forgiving and no vibration and what not.


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> Do you think i will be able to shoot better once i get the new bow? Just because it is more forgiving and no vibration and what not.


You never know. You always have the capability of shooting good but your new bow might bring it out more than your old one did.

Jake


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

Well just cause when I shoot my hand kinda jumps up with the razor edge and when I was shooting other bows my hand doesnt move at all.


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> Well just cause when I shoot my hand kinda jumps up with the razor edge and when I was shooting other bows my hand doesnt move at all.


Yeah. That sounds like it's just the bow not you. Cause I've shot bows that have a lot of forward jump. And I shot it like I normally do.

Jake


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

archerykid13 said:


> Yeah. That sounds like it's just the bow not you. Cause I've shot bows that have a lot of forward jump. And I shot it like I normally do.
> 
> Jake


On a 5 spot today I was hitting within the black circle the entire time but hardly ever on the X. It could just be me but I kinda think that some of the reason why is because of how the bow shoots.


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> On a 5 spot today I was hitting within the black circle the entire time but hardly ever on the X. It could just be me but I kinda think that some of the reason why is because of how the bow shoots.


It could be. You never really know. When I shot the Razor's Edge it jumped forward to me too.

Jake


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

archerykid13 said:


> It could be. You never really know. When I shot the Razor's Edge it jumped forward to me too.
> 
> Jake


Just kinda wondering what bow are you shooting now?


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> Just kinda wondering what bow are you shooting now?


I don't have a bow right now. I've been shooting my dad's old High Country. I had a Z7 but it got stolen. I'll be buying a bow soon. 

Jake


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

archerykid13 said:


> I don't have a bow right now. I've been shooting my dad's old High Country. I had a Z7 but it got stolen. I'll be buying a bow soon.
> 
> Jake


I would be so POed if I got a $900 bow stolen!!


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> I would be so POed if I got a $900 bow stolen!!


I got it stolen the day I got it.

Jake


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

archerykid13 said:


> I got it stolen the day I got it.
> 
> Jake


Even worse!


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> Even worse!


Yeah. I know. I was pissed.

Jake


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> Do you think i will be able to shoot better once i get the new bow? Just because it is more forgiving and no vibration and what not.


Depends on if the new bow fits you better and is a better match to how you shoot. The added brace or ata will help with forgiveness, but vibe has no effect(as long as its not vibe from cam's being out of time, etc)



Bugs Bunnyy said:


> On a 5 spot today I was hitting within the black circle the entire time but hardly ever on the X. It could just be me but I kinda think that some of the reason why is because of how the bow shoots.


It might be the bow, not trying to offend anyone the edge and razor edge are great beginner bows, but they aren't the highest quality. They are great for learning and they have a ton of adjustment so they are a great option for youth that want a bow they can shoot for a while. 

Next time your up at the shop have them check the timing on your bow and make sure the cams are timed together. if the timing is off the groups spread way out and it makes it hard to shoot consistently. 

Are you using a stabilizer? if so what length, weight, and model?


----------



## outdoorkid1 (Nov 20, 2010)

Ignition kid said:


> ya well I got it to where with my wrist strap I can shoot back-tension it just took some dedication to get it to work that's all.


The dedication was definitly there, it was just that it wasn't comfortable for me when using a wrist release. I started archery to hunt and hunt only, I got into 4-h archery and shoot 5 spots and 3-d also. If I can get 2" groups at 20 yards every time with my wrist release, i'm happy. I don't think back tension would work well while hunting. I know some people do, but in some of my hunting situations sometimes I have to squeeze the trigger, I can't wait for the release to go off. If I ever get another bow then I will have one set up for target with a back tension release and one for hunting with my wrist strap release. Just my opinoin


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

N7709K said:


> Depends on if the new bow fits you better and is a better match to how you shoot. The added brace or ata will help with forgiveness, but vibe has no effect(as long as its not vibe from cam's being out of time, etc)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah I agree with you about the bow its a great bow for starting out but they arent the best. I'm not using a stabilizer but I think I will buy one after I get the new bow. What would you recommend? I dont want one of those 24in ones but one i can use for hunting and 3d. About the cam timing I think I will bring the bow when I go up to buy a new bow and have them check it. How long does it take and how do they check it?


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

For stabilizer i would recommend getting a 8-10" bstinger pro hunter with the small 4oz weight

not sure how your shop does it, but it should take a max of 5 min to check timing


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

N7709K said:


> For stabilizer i would recommend getting a 8-10" bstinger pro hunter with the small 4oz weight
> 
> not sure how your shop does it, but it should take a max of 5 min to check timing


Definitely. The B-Stinger Pro hunter is great. Also check out the Doinker DISH.

Jake


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

Ok thanks for the input. Does the stab. actually help a lot?


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

in short yes, it will solidify the sight picture and make the groups smaller


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

Ok thanks for all the help!


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

not a problem


----------



## Joe(y) (Mar 1, 2009)

Well if I was in your spot I would make myself a nice mental concrete list of the things you are looking for in a bow such as durability, speed, accuracy, forgiveness, smooth draw etc. Then shoot as many of the bows as you can and see which one fits your list best. I would try to shoot a Z9.


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

Joe(y) said:


> Well if I was in your spot I would make myself a nice mental concrete list of the things you are looking for in a bow such as durability, speed, accuracy, forgiveness, smooth draw etc. Then shoot as many of the bows as you can and see which one fits your list best. I would try to shoot a Z9.


I would but I have a 26in draw length and the z9 goes down to 27in


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

I got my z7 extreme today! It is shooting great.


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> I got my z7 extreme today! It is shooting great.


Pics??

Jake


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

I'll get some up in a little bit.


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Alright.

Jake


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

archerykid13 said:


> Alright.
> 
> Jake


Here is the pics.


----------



## outdoorkid1 (Nov 20, 2010)

looks great. How has it been shooting for you?


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Looks sweet. And how's it shooting?? Get it all tuned up good??

Jake


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

archerykid13 said:


> Looks sweet. And how's it shooting?? Get it all tuned up good??
> 
> Jake


Its been shooting great all my arrows are touching at 20 yards. At 40 yards its a really good group (at least for me). There all pretty much within a inch of each other. Yeah its tuned up good and I bought it on saturday.


----------



## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> Its been shooting great all my arrows are touching at 20 yards. At 40 yards its a really good group (at least for me). There all pretty much within a inch of each other. Yeah its tuned up good and I bought it on saturday.


That's great!! And keep practicing. Pretty soon you'll be splitting arrows.

Jake


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

inch groups at any distance are good

you have a stabilizer for it?


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

No I just had enough money for what i got I will get more stuff in 2-3 months.


----------



## Ignition kid (Oct 7, 2008)

ya I have the little goose, and it's different from a regular tru ball jaw release, but I have the trigger set not hairy light, but not heavy, I had it set where it was as heavy as it could be, but I lightened it up just a little so there wast as much delay in the whole process but I didnt lighten it up much.
I was considering trying a HTM inline release like the one Jim Burnworth uses, to me it would seem pretty foolproof and would work really well but I am very happy with my scott so far and the way I was taught to use it, and my groups are keeping very consistent, much more than I ever have been before.

and also what I do every couple of weeks is I will take a few dyas of the week to just shoot at point blank distance, not worrying about where my arrows are hitting, and just concentrating on the shot process and my release.


N7709K said:


> Clint, over the summer if you took up shooting with a hinge and put the bows down for a bit and learned a hinge and how to shoot one.. your groups would probably tighten up if you went back to your other release.
> 
> I haven't shot a scott for a while, but the last time i did i do remember the trigger being set to when it was pulled jaw opened.. when it was forward jaw was closed. super nice release, and i'm not knocking them for sure, but with a non static trigger(atleast on the one i tried) it is very difficult to shoot bt correctly with one


----------



## Ignition kid (Oct 7, 2008)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> Well just cause when I shoot my hand kinda jumps up with the razor edge and when I was shooting other bows my hand doesnt move at all.


well I thought that before I got my monster I would shoot my Z7 better since it has a smoother draw, no vibration, just really smooth and the monster being a speed bow but when I got my monster I noticed that I was wrong and that I shoot my monster better than my Z7 even though the mods that are on it right now are a half inch too long and the bow has vibration and that it drops into let-off instead of rolling into let-off although the wall on it is really solid, but I shoot it better mostly because it's longer, not just longer axle to axle, but a good bit longer overall which makes it hold better at full draw and in return I shoot it better.


----------



## Ignition kid (Oct 7, 2008)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> Here is the pics.


sweet!


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

N7709K said:


> inch groups at any distance are good
> 
> you have a stabilizer for it?


Oh and I kinda exaggerated when I said 1 inch groups at 40 yards lol most of them are within 3 inches of each other. But a lot are within a inch.


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

For the stabilizer I think I want to get a b-stinger 8.5in sport hunter or a 10.25in pro hunter. Whats the difference? They both have pretty much the same descripition on there website. The pro hunter comes with weights and costs a little more to.


----------



## outdoorkid1 (Nov 20, 2010)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> Oh and I kinda exaggerated when I said 1 inch groups at 40 yards lol most of them are within 3 inches of each other. But a lot are within a inch.


I can see that. If you got 1" groups everytime at 40 yards than you would be going pro.


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

Bugs Bunnyy said:


> For the stabilizer I think I want to get a b-stinger 8.5in sport hunter or a 10.25in pro hunter. Whats the difference? They both have pretty much the same descripition on there website. The pro hunter comes with weights and costs a little more to.


The only differance is the length of the bar. The sport hunter and prohunter use the same weights. I have a 12" pro hunter and I really like it. I would have gone with the 10.25" version if Blair had them instock when I got mine in vegas

3" groups at 40yds is still great shootin, especially without a stab


----------



## Bugs Bunnyy (Aug 2, 2010)

N7709K said:


> The only differance is the length of the bar. The sport hunter and prohunter use the same weights. I have a 12" pro hunter and I really like it. I would have gone with the 10.25" version if Blair had them instock when I got mine in vegas
> 
> 3" groups at 40yds is still great shootin, especially without a stab


The only downside to buying one these is my archery I go to doesn't have them but I could order online.


----------

