# Elite Energy 35 Tuning Issues with OVERDRAW and drop away.



## ArcherXXX300 (Apr 22, 2013)

So I'm setting up one of my E35's for MBR. I'm wanting to run an arrow at 5grn per pound or very close to that. I have 26" GT Series 22 pros cut carbon to carbon with 100grns in the tip. Here's the deal. I shot some 3d Saturday in high wind and thought I did decent (only my 3rd time shooting outdoor 3d and first time shooting MBR, previous experience was open class). I shot reasonably well and arrows grouped decent but I'm looking for the BEST possible combo and I know this takes time but I'm running into issues. I'm trying to accomplish close to the same arrow weight, more FOC, and more point weight.

Saturdays MBR 3d setup.

E35 - 65lbs of draw weight
28" AMO DL exactly
26 1/8" GT Series 22 Pro (carbon to carbon) 330grn total weight, 100grn point weight, 11.03%FOC calculated by me. Aerovane 3's

So....the only way I figured I could accomplish my goal of more FOC, same weight and more point weight was a shorter shaft and my Hamskea overdraw bracket and Hamskea Versa Rest in bottom limb drop mode.

Built more arrows.

E35 - 65lbs of draw weight
28" AMO DL exactly
24.5" GT Series 22 Pro (carbon to carbon) 335grn total weight, 50grn points, 50grn weight, 20grn weight. Total point weight 120grns. 12.686%FOC calculated by me. Aerovane 3's.

Bow sight is an Axcel armortech pro 7 pin (yeah I know a lot of pins). Anyways. I'm running into issues with tuning. For the bow to tune I ended up having the arrow rest pointing way left for a bareshaft to tear perfect through paper. Was getting nock right tear, but I've moved my cable rod to 3 o'clock position and have been able to move the arrow rest back left. Walk back tuning I was hitting right which meant to move the arrow rest to the left (here's the problem) I was running out of left sight adjustment big time there. So I shot a fletched shaft through paper and had a perfect tear up close, bareshaft had perfect tear through paper, but walk back showed arrows were hitting right. I called a 2 pros and talked with them. They suggested powder testing (I don't believe I have vane contact I have tons of clearance and it shot a perfect hole through paper up close) But I'm going to powder test it anyway. I discussed shimming the cams and am waiting on a shim kit, but I'll have to look further into that. With the cable rod at the 3 o'clock position things got better and I could move my arrow rest in thank god and bareshafts flew good with minor left and right tweaking of rest at 20yds. Walk back tuned with the same arrow and they're all hitting the line to 40yds. I don't like that much load on the cable rod and it will surely shred my cables. Now when the arrow is drawn or partially drawn it looks as though the arrow rest center shot is about where it should be but once fully drawn it looks to be pointing way right in towards the riser.

Saturday before my whim to change rests and go more point weight, FOC, same arrow weight I had an AAE problade on the E35 but didn't like that I couldn't have the rest all the way back and use the setscrew due to the riser design...but there's more to it than that, I had winds so bad that it blew my arrow off the rest on Saturday. With that configuration it walkback tuned and bareshafted perfect. So what is the deal with the positioning of the rest causing this lack of left sight adjustment and all of these rather strange issues? Is it that the arrow rest is sitting further back and the string is pushing the arrow at a slightly different angle down the center of the shaft? Anyone else experience any weird stuff like this? I believe I'll shim the cams (ordered shim kit 3 weeks ago) and try to remove cable rod load and see what happens. Anyone have thoughts on this arrow setup, am I using enough vane? The Aerovane3 has worked awesome for me indoors on some shafts and I really do like it. Sorry for the long post, I will report back.


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## ArcherXXX300 (Apr 22, 2013)

11 views? No brains here...I mean thoughts?


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## ArcherXXX300 (Apr 22, 2013)

Eh TTT? I got it to shoot halfway decent with a lot of cable rod rotation in all directions and rest movements in all directions and I haven't even got to torque tuning it yet.


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## ArcherXXX300 (Apr 22, 2013)

String stretched 1/4" already...this is really sucking with the bow tune. I mean center shot is center shot even with an overdraw right? I've tuned tons of bows but no binary cams or elites....this is becoming a major pain in the ass.


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## trumankayak (Dec 28, 2011)

Elite's grip is finicky on torque and you are magnifying that by putting the point behind your wrist.
If you are going to shoot an overdraw that grip better be deadnuts.
To shoot that stiff of a shaft the bow has to tune down the middle.
I would look at your hand first. If you have any cam lean or torque issues you are going to run into trouble.

To shoot a setup with the point behind your hand you really need to work your way back.
I am currently shooting an e35 despite my dislikes for 2-track binaries 
The bow just shoots that well. But I am aware of the limitations in regards to tuning down the middle.
You have an uphill climb sir.


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## trumankayak (Dec 28, 2011)

_Now when the arrow is drawn or partially drawn it looks as though the arrow rest center shot is about where it should be but once fully drawn it looks to be pointing way right in towards the riser.
_

This ^^^ Thats the elephant in the room


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## ArcherXXX300 (Apr 22, 2013)

Grip thread. I always shot a low wrist grip and I posted a check my grip thread thinking it may be an E35 grip issue, but I'm not convinced its entirely a grip issue...also the bow is overly finicky for me to get to sit level on its own with my grip, requires loads of side bar angle and weight. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2242660 grip thread w/pics.


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## louie (Dec 20, 2010)

Have you measured your ata? center of pin to pin, mine was off because alot of shops that set these things up let the cables untwist by accident and the strings stretch. Check it with your limb bolts at max draw weight it should be 34+3/4 and brace height 7". I had alot of issues tuning mine, it shot well but not like it should. Further the shot, the more wonky my arrows would hit the target

also I read that you want your cables and rod as close to straight down or as close as you can get without arrow contact, seems to shoot better for most, I think you should paste this thread into the Elite specific forum too and youll get alot more info


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## pointndog (Jul 14, 2005)

Just thinking that is a short stiff arrow. May need more point weight still. I am shooting 27" 22's with 130 in the nose with 4 fletch out of my E35.


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## ArcherXXX300 (Apr 22, 2013)

I shimmed cams to the right and set center shot at 3/4", restrung the bow. Couldn't tell you how far I shimmed it (because no micrometer or dial indicator at the shop) Seems to be half ass working for now. I'll get this figured out sooner or later. I'm shooting 1st leg of IBO triple crown this weekend and I'm not expecting to do well, just have fun and gain some 3d experience. Bow will bareshaft a perfect hole through paper but will bareshaft nock left or right at 20yds depending on what I adjust either the rest or the cable guard. Also fletched shafts shoot very slight nock left through paper, I built yet another new dozen of series 22 pros today cut same length same point weight just different vanes to try and see what groups best....oh well work in progress.


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