# bareshaft and uneven tiller



## bbjavelina (Jan 30, 2005)

It's surely not an issue for me. I do that all the time and find it beneficial. 

By changing the tiller you've moved your nocking point slightly and slightly changed the way the grip sits in your hand. 

But, best of all, you've got your bare shafts flying with the fletched. Good move.


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## ND Swede (Feb 21, 2009)

I've heard of people tuning like that. I crank the limb bolts all the way down and then back them off a 1/4 turn and then sync the cams by twisting/untwisting the cables. Then I adjust my rest to get it shooting bullet holes through paper with a BARE SHAFT. Final adjustments are made to rest when shooting bare shafts at 20 yards. Hopefully more people will comment on your method as I am largely unfamiliar with it.


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## bbjavelina (Jan 30, 2005)

ND Swede said:


> I've heard of people tuning like that. I crank the limb bolts all the way down and then back them off a 1/4 turn and then sync the cams by twisting/untwisting the cables. Then I adjust my rest to get it shooting bullet holes through paper with a BARE SHAFT. Final adjustments are made to rest when shooting bare shafts at 20 yards. Hopefully more people will comment on your method as I am largely unfamiliar with it.


An example; my nephew had a biscuit that was not adjustable for elevation and had both limbs maxed out. Broadheads were not flying with field points. Took a 1/2 turn off the bottom limb. All was well. 

Sometimes with a rest that is not micro-adjustable and things are close, it's easier (and just as effective) to play with the tiller a bit. 

One of the beautiful things about tiller tuning is that is really easily to immediately go back where you were. Much easier than trying to move most rest, and surely nocking points. 

Every time I bring this up, people shoot it down. 

In 15 minutes you can change tiller, shoot, evaluate, change again -- either more, less, or back to the starting point. It's so easy to try and you can go back where you started in no time and with very little trouble. What's to lose?

Best of luck to you.


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## bbjavelina (Jan 30, 2005)

One more thought.
I haven't tried this will all cam systems. I know it works well on single cams and Bowtech ODB cams, as well as a three track binary I have. Can't remember ever using it on hybrids.

ND Swede reminds me that with some cam systems it may be a good idea to check cam synch after making a change. I don't THINK it would make a difference, but can't rule it out. It would only take one trial to see how it affects yours. 

Again, best of luck.


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## sureshot516 (Sep 15, 2011)

Reason i took a half turn out of top and added it to bottom was in addition to a tail high bareshaft when drawing back you can feel the bow rise in the hand, a reaction that the top limb was overpowering the bottom.


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## carlielos (May 12, 2007)

It's generally the nature of the system, two wheels or cams on either end of the bow both doing the same job, but the bottom has more string to take up then the top, two options for correction, tiller and can sync, for me tiller is the choice as it is the least of the 2 evil's.


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## TMan51 (Jan 25, 2004)

ND Swede said:


> I've heard of people tuning like that. I crank the limb bolts all the way down and then back them off a 1/4 turn and then sync the cams by twisting/untwisting the cables.


That's the accepted method these days. If you have a press and know how to use it.

When the world transitioned to 2-wheel bows that used fixed steel cables, that was _THE_ way to make adjustments when nock position didn't cover the problem. If you don't have a press, it's a route to appropriate tuning.

In the end, results justify the method. Good flight is good flight, and you found the spot.


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## dragonheart II (Aug 20, 2010)

Just curious peoples thought on this. I always seem to hold better with the bottom limb weaker than the top on most bows I have owned. My Martin Sceptor shot with best with 3/4 turn less weight on bottom limb. I am shooting an Elite XXL now. I also tend to hold with a low grip. I also shoot a tourqeless d=loop that is under the arrow nock, not pulling right behind the arrow like a D=loop. I had the cams in sync, and timed at even tiller and set the limb stops there. I took 1/4 turn out of the bottom limb (made it weker) and my bare shaft is drilling same hole as fletched. I noticed now on the draw board the top limb stop hits just slightly ahead of the bottom. I also see less movement with the sight pin,,,thoughts guys? Should I reset the limbs stops at this tiller setting or leave it alone as the bare shaft is hitting with the fletched at 20 yrds. Indoor set up, BTW.


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## pottergreg (Mar 20, 2015)

I use tiller tuning as one of the last steps in tuning. If after trying shooting in various cam sync settings ( you can't get less than 1/2 twist in control ) ands I still have a high or low bare shaft with the rest/D loop square, I will go to tiller adjustment as sort of a micro adjustment. I find 1/8 of a turn will make a big adjustment, so don't get wild with this. If it is really bad, I will also try moving limbs around. There are tolerances in the manufacturing of parts, limbs might be slightly stronger, or riser could be slightly off, limb pockets, etc. When you shoot, all the tolerances are stacked, and your particular bow might need to be slightly tweaked to shoot a bare shaft and fletched together. I was tuning a bow last week and had a 2" high bare shaft after setting it up with an even tiller and playing with cam sync settings, best I could get was the 2" high bare shaft with the top cam slightly advanced. ( 1/16" gap on the bottom cam at full draw on draw board). I started loosening the top limb bolt 1/8 turn at a time and walked it right in. It took about 1/4 turn total. This is very easy to do, if you haven't tried it, you will be amazed. Hope this helps.


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## dragonheart II (Aug 20, 2010)

Thank you for the response. So having the top limb stop slightly hitting first, on purpose, is not a terrible thing...LOL.


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