# Broadhead tuning



## WoodsWraith (Jul 29, 2015)

I shoot a 2007 diamond black ice with fixed blade broadheads. I can group the field points and broadheads together out to 30 yards. At 40 yards the broadheads are about 4 inches right. When I make rest adjustments both groups (bhead, fieldpoints) move but the 4 inches between the groups remain. For example if the field points are dead on and the broadheads are 4 inches right, I'll make a rest adjustments and the broadheads will be dead on and the field points 4 inches left. I think I may have a cam lean/timing issue. Normally, I don't take hunting shoots > 30 yards but planning to hunt in out west this year and would like to add a little range.

Any thoughts are advice are appreciated.


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## bowdomino (Jun 1, 2016)

I was having a similar issue and went to mechanical broadheads to minimize the deviation from fieldpoint to broadhead impact. Not sure if your state allows mechanicals, but I like em pretty good!


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## Rat (Jun 19, 2004)

If you can't get them to hit together with moving the rest or yoke tuning it is probably a grip/form issue. 

If it were me, I would go back and bareshaft tune, but you can do it with broadheads as well. 

Grip would mean you need to rotate your wrist/arm a tad clockwise to get even pressure on the thumb pad. You could also try shorteneing the draw length a little, about 1/8" at a time; this will add the pressure and cause the wrist to be more upright and stable. 

You are tuning for a left tear basically, so move the rest to the right, twist the left yoke or adjust grip (thumb pad) and pressure (draw length) to rotate the bow about the x axis (commonly called torque) counterclockwise.


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## WoodsWraith (Jul 29, 2015)

bowdomino said:


> I was having a similar issue and went to mechanical broadheads to minimize the deviation from fieldpoint to broadhead impact. Not sure if your state allows mechanicals, but I like em pretty good!


I like mechanicals for whitetail deer, but I plan to Hunt Elk next year and don't like mechanicals for elk. I know some people use mechanicals for Elk but personally, I don't think you get the penetration especially at longer ranges. Therefore, I am trying to get it dialed in with a fixed blade.


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## WoodsWraith (Jul 29, 2015)

Rat said:


> If you can't get them to hit together with moving the rest or yoke tuning it is probably a grip/form issue.
> 
> If it were me, I would go back and bareshaft tune, but you can do it with broadheads as well.
> 
> ...


Rat,

Thanks for your reply. You may be on to something with the grip, I've been playing around with it and seems to be working. Appreciate your veteran feedback.


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## Rat (Jun 19, 2004)

WoodsWraith said:


> Rat,
> 
> Thanks for your reply. You may be on to something with the grip, I've been playing around with it and seems to be working. Appreciate your veteran feedback.


Sure thing, that's what we are here for right, to learn and pass on what we know. 

Something I learned from Bernie Pellerite's book that has served me well when it comes to grip is this: When in doubt, heel the hell out of it. 
As a coach to mostly young archers (teenagers) and bowhunters I see that somewhere along the way they have been told to have "even" pressure from top to bottom of the thumb pad. I believe this leads to an inconsistent grip; sometimes more pressure at the top (like a high wrist, but not as extreme) and sometimes more pressure on the bottom. 

Now, when I see someone struggling with grip, one of things I do is have them really heel the grip; This makes the grip more consistent from shot to shot, especially if you are trying to figure out what amount of rotation to have in the grip hand. 

Something else to try anyway.


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## Andrewrolltide (Jan 28, 2015)

I recently switched from fixed to mechanical do to issues i was having with the accuracy of the fixed blades. I have however been worried that I will not get as good of penetration with the mechanical.


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## Egessner (Apr 22, 2019)

Yoke tuning should fix that, I had the same problem. Be sure and paper tune it, the tears don’t lie


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## dnv23 (Feb 8, 2011)

You are moving the rest the wrong direction. You need to move the rest to the right if broadheads are hitting right of field points. 

Broadheads flying to right of field points means you have a tail left reaction. To fix a tail left you need to move the rest to the right. I know it's hard for people to understand how or why this works but it does, trust me.


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## creer32 (Jul 2, 2012)

following


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## raleigh111 (Sep 24, 2018)

dnv23 said:


> You are moving the rest the wrong direction. You need to move the rest to the right if broadheads are hitting right of field points.
> 
> Broadheads flying to right of field points means you have a tail left reaction. To fix a tail left you need to move the rest to the right. I know it's hard for people to understand how or why this works but it does, trust me.


I bet you are right but i am not sure if he stated which way he was moving the rest? That is a common mistake by people to move the rest the wrong direction. He never mentioned moving the sight so i assume you are correct. When he said he moved the rest and the broad heads were on i was thinking the same thing as you but its not clear. It is hard to understand for most people me included for many years that the point is trying to get in front of the string. 

WoodsWraith Keep your current shooting form and move the rest to the right. start over at 20 yards getting field points to hit bullseye by moving your sight, then walk back with your broad heads and field points. 4 inches right at 40 yards is not going to take a big rest move, more like .030 or something small. Dont get to worried about cams leaning. They are supposed to lean. If they were straight at brace and straight at full draw i would be more worried.


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## raleigh111 (Sep 24, 2018)

Maybe this helps???

draw a straight line in your mind from your string to your rest at full draw because the riser moves.. Now draw a straight line along your riser. Your arrow is actually pointing to the left...
rest to string \i the bow is the i and the string to rest is\
on paper this is a left tear because the point is moving to the right trying to get in front of the string!!! as soon as you shoot the arrow it does this /i because the weight of the tip is trying to move to the right to get in the power path of the string. 
When you shoot through paper it shows the opposite of how it is cocked in the bow and people cant seem to grasp that me included for long time.

This is why you move rest to right to get it more like this ii

After you do this you start over with field points re sighting in at 20 moving your sight then step back with broad heads and see what happens. 

don't believe?? try it and report back.. Here ends the lesson..

I do not know what a diamond ice bow is? I think solo cam? dont matter if center shot is close a .030 move or even .060 move of rest is fine. If it gets farther then that i look at either shimming cams which you would shim to the left to go from \i to ii or twisting yokes i would twist left yoke to make the cams lean more left. When i talk cam lean and i say lean more left i mean like this top cam left\ bottom cam/ left lean to right top cam would do more of this/ and bottom cam more\. See how you are moving the power path of the cam more left or right by doing this which is same as shimming cam more left or right. You can do it either way but i choose to do it the way that keeps me closest to factory center shot and if its off a little thats okay. It is a bow and arrow. Most important part is broad heads hit with field points not if center shot is .812 or .888 or ?


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## gretch6364 (Jul 18, 2012)

Good stuff here.


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## NrthFrk16 (Apr 3, 2019)

Following.


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## anthonyray (Jun 26, 2019)

What does bare shaft show? Shooting fare shafts into a solid target at shoulder height will show you issues with arrow tune.


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## raleigh111 (Sep 24, 2018)

anthonyray said:


> What does bare shaft show? Shooting fare shafts into a solid target at shoulder height will show you issues with arrow tune.


It is a reflection of how the arrow is leaving the bow. You want it to leave straight. If you line up for a drag race in your car you line it up straight. With feathers it will correct in 15 -20 feet with a bare shaft it will not it keeps going how it left the bow. Bare shafts with field points fly like fixed broad heads but with bare shafts you dont tear up the target. I use bare shafts to get close but i still broad head tune after with the broad heads I hunt with and lighted knock as i have had some lighted knocks screw me up in the past.


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