# What arrows for 25# recurve?



## Noodle Arm (Jan 26, 2016)

I picked up an older, fiberglass Bear Archery recurve. 25 pound draw weight, 60" MOA. My draw length is 29.25". I don't know much about bows and even less about arrows. I'd like to get some arrows that shoot well with this bow and are cheap. Something that matches this old bows aesthetics would be nice too. This is for target practice. Mostly cardboard boxes in the yard. 

Any help would be really appreciated. I've tried to search this subject and have either come up empty or not understood the information (15/35 what's that)?

Thanks!

Chad


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Chad - 

Is it a solid fiberglass bow with a plastic handle or one with laminated limbs?
How do you know that your draw length is 29.25"?

Viper1 out.


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## SageWoman (Sep 10, 2014)

Hi Chad - 

My draw length is 28". I'm shooting a 25# Samick Sage. I'd recommend some 700- or 800-spine Carbon Express Predator II arrows from Lancaster Archery (Item #2250403), around $80 per dozen. These arrows are very tough and the quality is excellent. As Viper said, you need to get a good measurement of your draw length. The shaft length of the 800's is around 30" (uncut) and the 700's are around 30.25". The points add about another half inch. It's possible that these might be a little short, so call Lancaster for advice prior to ordering anything.


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## Azzurri (Mar 10, 2014)

I do about 24 or 25 depending on the bow and I use 16xx or 17xx Easton aluminums (PP and X7) which are more like 800-1200 spine. Lower the spine number the less bendy the arrow and the more powerful a bow is needed to shoot it right. Higher the spine number the more bendy the arrow and it works better with a less powerful bow.

There are cheaper Easton aluminums than what I get that are fine for starters, Jazz, Genesis, Tribute, Gamegetter. Some come with vanes. Ideally feathers for short distance and/or if you're shooting off a shelf. You can get complete arrows with vanes stock and then strip them and put on feathers.


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## Noodle Arm (Jan 26, 2016)

Viper1 said:


> Chad -
> 
> Is it a solid fiberglass bow with a plastic handle or one with laminated limbs?
> How do you know that your draw length is 29.25"?
> ...


It has a maple core that is sandwiched between two pieces of fiberglass. A "Flicker" model. I measured my drawlength by going through the steps on this page below then averaging the two measurements (tip to tip / 2.5 and fist to chin measurement)

http://www.bestrecurvebowguide.com/how-to-choose-arrows-for-your-bow/

Chad


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## Noodle Arm (Jan 26, 2016)

SageWoman said:


> Hi Chad -
> 
> My draw length is 28". I'm shooting a 25# Samick Sage. I'd recommend some 700- or 800-spine Carbon Express Predator II arrows from Lancaster Archery (Item #2250403), around $80 per dozen. These arrows are very tough and the quality is excellent. As Viper said, you need to get a good measurement of your draw length. The shaft length of the 800's is around 30" (uncut) and the 700's are around 30.25". The points add about another half inch. It's possible that these might be a little short, so call Lancaster for advice prior to ordering anything.


Great information, thank you. So as far as arrow length goes....I guess I don't understand why this is so important. 1/2" past the front if the bow, 4" past the front of the bow, what's the difference?

Chad


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## Noodle Arm (Jan 26, 2016)

Azzurri said:


> I do about 24 or 25 depending on the bow and I use 16xx or 17xx Easton aluminums (PP and X7) which are more like 800-1200 spine. Lower the spine number the less bendy the arrow and the more powerful a bow is needed to shoot it right. Higher the spine number the more bendy the arrow and it works better with a less powerful bow.
> 
> There are cheaper Easton aluminums than what I get that are fine for starters, Jazz, Genesis, Tribute, Gamegetter. Some come with vanes. Ideally feathers for short distance and/or if you're shooting off a shelf. You can get complete arrows with vanes stock and then strip them and put on feathers.



Thanks! This actually answered a question I had, is a higher number softer or stiffer. 

So, should I be looking for feather fletching rather than plastic? An arrow that I don't have to construct would be ideal. 


Chad


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

Lancaster Archery (a sponsor here) can build your arrows with feathers, nocks, and points for you. 

You may be forced to go online to get the proper shafts simply because local archery shops and big box stores cater mainly to the compound crowd, and it isn't profitable to carry shafts in the spines more appropriate for lower-weight recurves ... too much inventory for too little demand.

Once you settle upon your needs, give a human at Lancaster a call (John Wert is a good one to ask for), and they will fix you right up.

Good luck.


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## Azzurri (Mar 10, 2014)

Noodle Arm said:


> Thanks! This actually answered a question I had, is a higher number softer or stiffer.
> 
> So, should I be looking for feather fletching rather than plastic? An arrow that I don't have to construct would be ideal.
> 
> Chad


Most complete arrows in brick and mortar sporting goods shops and archery shops will come with vanes. LAS has some "complete arrows" that are feathered, though most ready made remain vaned. You can also have either LAS or Three Rivers put together components for you and ask for feathers. You can also buy something with vanes, cope for a while, and then buy some feathers and have them swapped.

At your poundage and draw you need to know the "uncut length" of arrows you buy. A 27" arrow even before it's cut does no good for 29" draw. At the lower spines the uncut length of the arrows get shorter and drop below a normal draw. I had to be picky about my 16xx arrows to make sure I found ones long enough for me, and I'm closer to average draw length, 28.

I second calling a person at LAS -- or they have online chat too -- because even if you plug weights into a spine chart and probably get something OK, it may not be a perfect fit. Everything doesn't follow the chart especially if you have a different than normal draw. It helps to talk to a human who might have recommendations based on your needs. They can steer you based on target/hunt, indoor/outdoor, learning/performance, etc.


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## SageWoman (Sep 10, 2014)

Chad - You're going to need an arrow that's longer than your draw length. I think the "standard" is around 1.5". So, you'll need an arrow that's about 31". I'd recommend getting some pre-made arrows with feathers (not vanes). If you want to use aluminum, I think 1716's would put you in the ballpark.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Chad - 

That draw length measurement is basically a crock. If that turns out to be your DL, it's by accident. Sorry, but that's pretty much common knowledge, with everyone except salesmen in "pro-shops". 

Ya know, I was going to describe how to do a home draw check, but it's really easier to find a pro shop or range that has a draw check bow. Actually since you already have a bow all they would need is either a graduated draw check arrow or a long arrow they came mark. If they try to measure you with a chart or tape measure, thank them and run like hell out of the shop. 

OK, a GOOD 25# bow drawn to approx 28-29" will take a 1616. 
1716s, start working around 30#. If you go 2" longer, then a 1716 comes into play, however a full length 1716 is 29" long? See the problem? 

Your bow also ain't the fastest horse in the barn and it probably no where near center shot. All that means is that technically, you'd need a weaker arrow, not a stiffer one. 

You're going to have to find out what your current DL is, and then expect it to grow a little as your form develops. That means that you may have to go to an arrow that way stiffer than called for.

Here are a couple of examples: 
Full length 1616 (25#) = 28.5", 1716 (30#) = 29", 1816 (35-40#) = 30, 1916 (45 - 50#) = 31". (all weights approximate)
Those lengths can change by 1/2" every time there's a new phase of the moon - thanks Easton ...

The longer arrow is necessary for safety reasons, once your DL stabilizes, then you actually can use an arrow shorter than your DL, but you're not ready to go there yet. 

Sorry, if that sound a little kurt, but had to counter some of the mis-information you were getting. 

And while I'm on a roll... LAS (Lancaster) is a great place to use. Without a doubt, there are some very knowledgeable people there. Unfortunately, on the phone and sometimes even in person, you'll get a compound guy (or gal) who knows nothing more about recurves other than what's on the chart in front of them. Just know who you're taking do. Another good point about LAS, is that if you do get the wrong stuff, their customer service is top notch, and they will correct the problem quickly. Still sending stuff back can be a pain. 

Viper1 out.


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## Noodle Arm (Jan 26, 2016)

Thank you everybody for the feedback. I'm thinking about all of it while trying to understand the fundamentals. 

best,
Chad


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## rembrandt (Jan 17, 2004)

Hello Viper....I’ve got a Black Hunter bow coming and it has 30lb limbs on it......If it’s too much for my shoulder I intend to buy 25lb limbs......I’m also in the market for a 25 “ riser and I’m gonna get 25lb limbs for it to start with.....my draw length with my Compound was 29 and 1/2”....I’m pretty sure it will be a little less with these two bows because of my anchor point right under my eye......I want Carbon Arrows and I don’t want to buy 3dz to find the right ones...Am I being eat up with a case of ignorance or am I having fun by giving one of my devoted life hobbies a determined chance to come back in my old age? Thanks Viper 1...


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Dave -

Unfortunately, my first recommendation isn't carbon, but you probably guessed that.
A 25# bow drawn to 28/29" calls for an aluminum 1616, full length with NIBB type points. 
If you have to go carbon, think close to 1000 spine with target points. You can go A LITTLE stiffer with heavier heads, but why bother?

Viper1 out.


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## MSGHaines (Dec 21, 2020)

Gents,
if either of you wants to keep it cheap, I have a dozen Easton Inspires 900 spine, points includes but no fletching. I will give them to you, just pay shipping. They are very beginner arrows and full length. They were my daughters first arrow before she became competitive. Just message me if you want to try free arrows before you buy.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Dave - 

If those arrows are 28-29" or better, you're not going to beat that deal! 
They'll be a little stiff, but not a problem for what you're doing. 

MSGHaines - Very generous, thank you.

Viper1 out.


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## 6bloodychunks (Oct 26, 2005)

agreed!

great deal,
even greater gesture


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## carlosii (Feb 25, 2007)

I've had good luck going on the LAS web site and using the chat feature. Type in your question and a staff member will help you. I've been fortunate dealing with Dakota who is very knowledgeable about barebow/recurve.


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## MSGHaines (Dec 21, 2020)

They are 28 7/8 inch in length. I also have 2000 spine for that person whose youngster is shooting a 14-18 pound beginner bow. Again just pay shipping otherwise they’re free. Or if your SoCal local I’ll meet somewhere and just give them away.


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## rembrandt (Jan 17, 2004)

MSGHaines said:


> Gents,
> if either of you wants to keep it cheap, I have a dozen Easton Inspires 900 spine, points includes but no fletching. I will give them to you, just pay shipping. They are very beginner arrows and full length. They were my daughters first arrow before she became competitive. Just message me if you want to try free arrows before you buy.


I appreciate that and I will take them......Do you have an idea what shipping will be? I can also pay you with Pay Pal....I will send you a PM...


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## carlosii (Feb 25, 2007)

Viper1 said:


> Chad -
> 
> That draw length measurement is basically a crock. If that turns out to be your DL, it's by accident. Sorry, but that's pretty much common knowledge, with everyone except salesmen in "pro-shops".
> 
> ...


If you call LAS, see if you can speak to Dakota Shackelford. I think he's their designated guy for barebow and recurve. If you use the chat feature on-line and type in your question it will most likely go to him.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

carlos - 

I get right on that ... 

Viper1 out.


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## Miisha (Apr 21, 2021)

MSGHaines said:


> They are 28 7/8 inch in length. I also have 2000 spine for that person whose youngster is shooting a 14-18 pound beginner bow. Again just pay shipping otherwise they’re free. Or if your SoCal local I’ll meet somewhere and just give them away.
> HI my daughter uses a 14# samick jr, do u still have the arrows, im in reseda.


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## rafa091970 (8 mo ago)

Hello Guys, Just got a Galaxy 70” recurve bow with 25 or 28 lbs draw weight. Today was my second day and I really like target archery. My draw length is 30.8 (I’m 6’6”). Why kind of arrows you recommend. Best regards, Rafa


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

rafa -

Your DL is not 30.8". 30.8" seems calculated, not measured.
Have it rechecked with a graduated draw length check arrow.

I would "guess" you're at least 31", if not more.

Since you're new, forget a perfect arrow. Go with full length 1916s (31") and work on your technique.
When things start to stabilize, we can discuss further.

Viper1 out.


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## rafa091970 (8 mo ago)

Viper1 said:


> rafa -
> 
> Your DL is not 30.8". 30.8" seems calculated, not measured.
> Have it rechecked with a graduated draw length check arrow.
> ...


Hi Viper, they measured me in the wall arms extended, 77”. He told me that the formula is 77/2.5= 30.8 and told me to use 32” arrows. That’s all. But will follow your advice, 31” or 32”?


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## 1canvas (Mar 29, 2009)

Viper1 said:


> Dave -
> 
> Unfortunately, my first recommendation isn't carbon, but you probably guessed that.
> A 25# bow drawn to 28/29" calls for an aluminum 1616, full length with NIBB type points.
> ...


Just curious, why not carbon arrows?


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## rafa091970 (8 mo ago)

rafa091970 said:


> Hi Viper, they measured me in the wall arms extended, 77”. He told me that the formula is 77/2.5= 30.8 and told me to use 32” arrows. That’s all. But will follow your advice, 31” or 32”?


Hello Viper, can’t find anywhere 1916s with 32” , any recommendation on where to buy them? Thanks again


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

J - 

The wall chart thing is hit or miss at best.
1916s are 31" native, but with heads and nocks may be about 31.5". 
With a target bow, your arrows can be shorter than your AMO draw length.

But yes, I am a little concerned about recommending stuff for a long draw shooter without seeing him in person.

1 - 

I've used VAPs, but in the spines he'll need, I think we're still talking around 31" full length. And I usually don't recommend skinnies to new shooters. The 1916s will get him started, providing they are long enough. 

If he means 25# AT HIS DL, we're talking about a 700 spine @ 31-32", if you know of any carbons like that, I'm all ears.
If the bow is 25# @ 28", it can be closer to 30# at 31"-32".

Viper1 out.


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## rafa091970 (8 mo ago)

Viper1 said:


> J -
> 
> The wall chart thing is hit or miss at best.
> 1916s are 31" native, but with heads and nocks may be about 31.5".
> ...


What I mean about 25# is @28, with my DL is 30+ (I’m learning a lot in 2 days) thanks Viper. In the Galaxy Bow I just got says 70/25


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

rafa - 

Ah no. I think that means a 70" bow (long limbs) with a 25" riser.
(Target ILF limbs typically come in even 2# increments.)
There should be a number after that, that will be the minimum draw weight at 28".

Viper1 out.


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## rafa091970 (8 mo ago)

Viper1 said:


> rafa -
> 
> Ah no. I think that means a 70" bow (long limbs) with a 25" riser.
> (Target ILF limbs typically come in even 2# increments.)
> ...


Ok Thanks. It says 70” 25 lbs on the limb and in the bottom is 70/25 and then H205 or 4205, is not that clear, and then 133A and in the other limb the same but the last is 133B


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

rafa - 

Are these the limbs you have?








Galaxy Bronze Star Recurve Limbs


Affordable wood/fiberglass limbs that are perfect for the entry level Olympic recurve archer. Affordable wood and fiberglass recurve limbs Korean sourced fiberglass with hard maple core construction Fits standard ILF or Hoyt Grand Prix risers




lancasterarchery.com





Viper1 out.


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## rafa091970 (8 mo ago)

Viper1 said:


> rafa -
> 
> Are these the limbs you have?
> 
> ...


 Nope, are Galaxy Aspire. Just bought the ones you told me 1916s 31” from Easton.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

rafa - 

OK, that's not an ILF bow, but will get you started. 
Just curious, what arrows were you using previously?

Viper1 out.


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## rafa091970 (8 mo ago)

Viper1 said:


> rafa -
> 
> OK, that's not an ILF bow, but will get you started.
> Just curious, what arrows were you using previously?
> ...


The ones from the Range. LOL. Second time in my life that I use a Bow (yesterday)💪🏼


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

rafa - 

I'd just be curious to hear what arrows they gave you that were long enough. 

Viper1 out.


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## rafa091970 (8 mo ago)

Viper1 said:


> rafa -
> 
> I'd just be curious to hear what arrows they gave you that were long enough.
> 
> Viper1 out.


Didn’t pay much attention, but they told me that were 31”, not sure about that, probably 30”


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