# Target panic, fear of failure whatever u call it I need some guidance



## trumankayak (Dec 28, 2011)

I think you have pretty much diagnosed and answered your own question's.
You gotta figure out how to relax. If that release hand and bow arm are not relaxed then you are not leaving the shoulders and back to carry the burden. It put's all of the focus in the hand which for Me is a bad thing.
Try introducing outside distractions to simulate a competitive situation. Have the wife talk to you at full draw, turn the radio on, put the ipod on, etc. Force yourself to tune out.
My 3cents


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## Daniel Boone (May 31, 2002)

Mental game

Audio Tapes or books from Lanny Bassham will help.

lannybassham.com

Many of us have gained from listening or reading Lanny advice
DB


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## Jame (Feb 16, 2003)

Who cares about your score. YOU. Quit caring about your score and just care about making the shot you want. If you shoot a 5 or a 0 its not gonna kill you. SO QUIT CARING ABOUT YOUR SCORE atleast till you get shot down. You need to set a goal to only shoot perfect shots. Really work on it through a full round of 3D but dont focus on score. You also have to hold yourself accountable for just jerking off the release instead of allowing it to fire the way you desire. You cant do that. Thats just reinforcing bad habits and thats a bad bad thing to do. If you have to go to the range to just shoot for fun for a while. Take score completely out of it. Shoot each target from a comfortable distance until you are able to shoot each target the way you desire. Once you do that then move back but still dont keep score. Dont keep score till you are 100% comfortable and confident with your shot. 


On another note. Your release is to fast I guarantee you. Slow it down so you have alot of movement in it before it fires. I like mine to fire around 1oclock or late ( my pinky knuckle or release handle is pointing between 1 and 2. ) Alot of movement in your release will help calm you down and relax because you know its slow and you dont have any worries of misfiring.
Jame


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## rapturebows (Jul 23, 2005)

What you need to do is blind bale for one month 5 feet from bale eyes closed.Do not shoot an arrow with eyes open.Use good form with your eyes shut it won't trigger the shot you'll find what a good shot is supposed to feel like.It takes dedication to get rid of it.After a month you can start shooting at slow plate at ten yards when that feels comfortable move back another five yards and same move further.If all feels good after awhile you can shoot at a dot this may take two weeks after the month of blind bailing.Do not shoot a tournament in this time of rehab.!!!!!!!.If any time you feel anxious go back to close shooting.Your confidence in your shot will come back.Good Luck.EF.


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## Blaylock6502 (Mar 1, 2012)

Tha ks for the input jame I really appreciate it. That's kinda what I was thinking guess I just needed to hear it from someone else. I was really afraid of as you said reinforcing bad habits. I really appreciate everyones input it is all extremely helpful and appreciated


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## rapturebows (Jul 23, 2005)

Forgot to mention blind bale often even when you get back to shooting tournaments it reminds you of what a good shot feels like.


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## itsme (Nov 6, 2007)

Get a good instructional dvd authored by a champion, get good with fundamentals. Focus on the process and not the result! And at the end of the day, you mentioned a wife and child, thats all that matters. As said earlier, dont worry about the score, just enjoy!


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## Jame (Feb 16, 2003)

The problem with blind bail shooting is you are taking aiming out of the equation. As soon as aiming is brought back in then the problems starts to occur again usually. I always like to incorporate some form of aiming. Even if its a really big dot. Shoot the 5 yard game with a big dot. The fear of missing a big dot at that distance is usually non existent. Then you can work on good form and how shots are supposed to feel. Most problems with a hinge comes from your aim or trying to control the shot by punching it as soon as the pin is in the dot. You either wont allow your release to function in the way it was designed or you wont allow it to so you control the shot by punching. This is why I firmly believe in setting the release with alot of travel. It helps relax the mind but dont try it at a distance. Shoot the 5 or 10 yard game for a little while then slowly move back few yards at a time.
Jame


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## Blaylock6502 (Mar 1, 2012)

Also I was going to ask how do u guys come to rest on the target I have found if I put my thumb on the trigger( carter target 3) or take my thumb off of the post (hinge) before lowering my pin on the target I lock up before I can get my pin on the target. If I wait until my pin settles to move my thumb my thumb locks up and I end up punching or twisting. I am planning on shooting closer without keeping score and am going to try to relax and reprogram my brain and was just wondering what u guys do or what's best or pros and cons of either if there are any in your opinion


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## BROX (Sep 29, 2005)

I practice drawing without the intention of shooting and i can sit with the pin almost still.When i decide to start shooting i will draw with the same intention and then start to slowly apply pressure and bam release goes off and a suprise shot!I use a Mini Evo sometime to reenforce a suprise release


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## Blaylock6502 (Mar 1, 2012)

I had a Stan element and maybe I didn't give it enuff time or use it for the purpose intended but I didn't care for it at all


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## rapturebows (Jul 23, 2005)

I had Target panic so bad I would draw the bow way above the Target and lower it most of the time I would not even get it down to the Target and snatch it out through the woods.Blind bailing cured me everybody is different some things work and some don't .Good stuff.


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## Blaylock6502 (Mar 1, 2012)

Blaylock6502 said:


> Also I was going to ask how do u guys come to rest on the target I have found if I put my thumb on the trigger( carter target 3) or take my thumb off of the post (hinge) before lowering my pin on the target I lock up before I can get my pin on the target. If I wait until my pin settles to move my thumb my thumb locks up and I end up punching or twisting. I am planning on shooting closer without keeping score and am going to try to relax and reprogram my brain and was just wondering what u guys do or what's best or pros and cons of either if there are any in your opinion


Does anyone have an opinion on this or is it just preference?


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## schmel_me (Dec 17, 2003)

I had target panic so bad i quit shooting 3d for 3 years. It got so bad id miss targets at random. Drive by releases. .5 second hold on the target the whole deal. A hinge isnt a cure for TP you still can feel the anticipation and punch it. The tension activated releases are a good training tool and helped me alot. But there is no magic thats works for everyone. 2 things that helped me the most was training myself to use a long shot routine(and long hold) also letting down ANYTIME i felt panicky. Its whats between the ears which makes it frustating. Remember the good shots even if they dont hit the x.
I was as bad as you im sure of it. I totally cured myself of TP and shooting is fun again just takes time.


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## shootist (Aug 28, 2003)

If I was going through what you are, I would go to a 3d range and shoot the entire round at a very close distance. Maybe 10 yards. Whatever you feel comfortable at. Then, next time repeat the process at a slightly farther distance. This way, you can start getting familiar with making good shots on 3d targets. 

Good luck.


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## trumankayak (Dec 28, 2011)

Blaylock6502 said:


> Also I was going to ask how do u guys come to rest on the target I have found if I put my thumb on the trigger( carter target 3) or take my thumb off of the post (hinge) before lowering my pin on the target I lock up before I can get my pin on the target. If I wait until my pin settles to move my thumb my thumb locks up and I end up punching or twisting. I am planning on shooting closer without keeping score and am going to try to relax and reprogram my brain and was just wondering what u guys do or what's best or pros and cons of either if there are any in your opinion


For Me with a triggered release, the aim and then put thumb on release is a bad idea.
First off you are interrupting the shot cycle.
If you cant aim with your thumb on the trigger its target panic.PERIOD.
After the initial set-up into anchor, the rest should be aiming. Of course this takes into account that you have the proper muscle memory to execute the shot sub-consciously.
I guarantee if you watch the majority of archers and by majority I say puncher's with 'TP' shoot. You will notice 2 things. 
First watch their sight. It's either slowly going up or down.
Second, watch their trigger finger. It will usually never touch the trigger until a split second before they shoot.
Can you shoot accurately like this ?
Of course you can. But can you be consistent enough to take it to the next level ? Probably not.
The reason most people can effectively aim without their thumb on the trigger is simple.
There aren't any consequences .It will catch up with you.
And I am 100% with Jame on the blank bailing WITH an aiming reference. Blank bailing with your eyes closed only teaches half of the shot. I like to use a large dot at 10 yards maybe 4 inch diameter. One it teaches you to aim, two its a reference that you know you can comfortably hold in the center, and finally there is the reward of hitting the center.
just my opinion.


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## Bigjim67 (Jan 23, 2006)

I use a clicker on my hinge, and when I get my pin close to the target than I let the clicker go off. after that I will only concentrate on the spot I am aiming, sure the pin moves around, and let it. If you try to hold your pin steady its going to move more, I don't really concentrate on the pin during shot execution. If the shot doesn't go off in the amount of time in my head I reset and go through shot sequence again.

You have to remember the eyes can only do one thing, but the subconscious can do allot more! 

I'm not professional, I have found a way to shoot and you will have to find something that works for you, just take the information from all these other shooters and come up with your own style.


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## Blaylock6502 (Mar 1, 2012)

Awesome stuff guys keep it coming if u have anymore input


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## trentcamp (Sep 26, 2005)

Try a Hydraulic release like the Scat. You can adjust it for fast or slow let gne of the Best training tools out there IMO. You keep the aiming in the equation along with everything else in the shot sequence. Set it and concentrate on aiming the release does the rest. If you start getting used to a certain point of it going off simply turn it up or down a little. Keeps the mind off balance.


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## jimb (Feb 17, 2003)

Jame said:


> Who cares about your score. YOU. Quit caring about your score and just care about making the shot you want. If you shoot a 5 or a 0 its not gonna kill you. SO QUIT CARING ABOUT YOUR SCORE atleast till you get shot down. You need to set a goal to only shoot perfect shots. Really work on it through a full round of 3D but dont focus on score. You also have to hold yourself accountable for just jerking off the release instead of allowing it to fire the way you desire. You cant do that. Thats just reinforcing bad habits and thats a bad bad thing to do. If you have to go to the range to just shoot for fun for a while. Take score completely out of it. Shoot each target from a comfortable distance until you are able to shoot each target the way you desire. Once you do that then move back but still dont keep score. Dont keep score till you are 100% comfortable and confident with your shot.
> 
> 
> On another note. Your release is to fast I guarantee you. Slow it down so you have alot of movement in it before it fires. I like mine to fire around 1oclock or late ( my pinky knuckle or release handle is pointing between 1 and 2. ) Alot of movement in your release will help calm you down and relax because you know its slow and you dont have any worries of misfiring.
> Jame


Exactly, give up the scoring and just learn how to shoot good shots one at a time.


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## Jame (Feb 16, 2003)

Blaylock6502 said:


> Also I was going to ask how do u guys come to rest on the target I have found if I put my thumb on the trigger( carter target 3) or take my thumb off of the post (hinge) before lowering my pin on the target I lock up before I can get my pin on the target. If I wait until my pin settles to move my thumb my thumb locks up and I end up punching or twisting. I am planning on shooting closer without keeping score and am going to try to relax and reprogram my brain and was just wondering what u guys do or what's best or pros and cons of either if there are any in your opinion



With a hinge you have to have it set slow enough that you can have continuous back tension through the whole shot. Your shot should never be started. It should be a continuation of the draw. What I mean by that is when you come to your anchor your release should already be rotating ( because of good continuous back tension ) before you are even aiming. This should allow you to come to your spot you are wanting to aim at and just keep aiming. Problem is this is when most people try to apply more tension to make the release speed up and fire. Usually when this happens your pin suddenly quits aiming as well. This is why you set your release up slow (alot of rotating travel before it fires) so you never have to start your shot after you start aiming. Just start aiming.
Jame


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## carlosii (Feb 25, 2007)

Jame said:


> The problem with blind bail shooting is you are taking aiming out of the equation. As soon as aiming is brought back in then the problems starts to occur again usually. I always like to incorporate some form of aiming. Even if its a really big dot. Shoot the 5 yard game with a big dot. The fear of missing a big dot at that distance is usually non existent. Then you can work on good form and how shots are supposed to feel. Most problems with a hinge comes from your aim or trying to control the shot by punching it as soon as the pin is in the dot. You either wont allow your release to function in the way it was designed or you wont allow it to so you control the shot by punching. This is why I firmly believe in setting the release with alot of travel. It helps relax the mind but dont try it at a distance. Shoot the 5 or 10 yard game for a little while then slowly move back few yards at a time.
> Jame


great advice from a real champion...this guy knows what he's talking about. wish more pros would take the time to give advice to us folks struggling to make it happen. Thanks Jame.


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## Blaylock6502 (Mar 1, 2012)

I cant thank everyone enough I probably would have given up a long time ago had it not for been the advice and support I get from this forum, but instead of giving up I cant wait to implement all the great techniques everyone has suggested! Does anyone else have anything to say about hydraulic releases (scat) im not familiar with them. Is this strictly a training tool?


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

The only post that was worth reading up to this point was the one by jame, he touched base on two things that are really important that I have been working on for a while. One of which is the fact that I was coming to anchor and aiming for a couple seconds and when the pin settled down then I started my firing sequence and had to wait more seconds for the release to go off and then the pin was moving again which made me run out of breath or TP a little and get a bad shot. The simple solution is to see the obvious which is right after coming to anchor you start aiming and the firing sequence at the same time so that after a couple seconds the pin settles and release goes off.

Second thing on your thumb trigger is how to make it go off, my method on a thumb trigger is to come to anchor and put a constant amount of back tension on the wall and never change it. Not to much or to little but just right and here is the key, when you hit anchor put your thumb on the trigger and lock it. Don't pull on the trigger just lock it in place usually in the crease of the joint, the second you get it locked you start aiming and then just relax your hand and what happens is that the release will rotate in your hand just a little but the trigger stays put and the release will go off. The first few times you do this you will feel the release relax in your hand and rotate a little and after a while you will be able to concentrate on aiming so much that you won't notice anymore. I shoot my hinge and thumb triggers both with this method and it is amazing and very similar to jame and his hinge method but in reverse, he rotates the hinge a long ways in a smooth fashon where I relax and let the hinge rotate to the same result a really nice predictable release that is still a surprise.


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## trumankayak (Dec 28, 2011)

Padgett said:


> The only post that was worth reading up to this point was the one by jame, .


And this is the very reason why I typically do not post on this site. People offering constructive help and you slam all but the famous one.
typical 'at' idol banter....


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## 3-D Quest (Jan 26, 2007)

carlosii said:


> great advice from a real champion...this guy knows what he's talking about. wish more pros would take the time to give advice to us folks struggling to make it happen. Thanks Jame.


Exactly what I was thinking carlos! Thanks again Jame.


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

Trumankyak, nobody else gave any helpful advice other than the typical politically correct stuff. I just went through a year and a half of trying to use archery talk to help me learn the proper way to shoot backtension with a hinge and the advice was thin to say the very least. griggs had a post this winter after christmas that discussed the way to shoot a hinge and jame has touched on the same concepts and every one else simply offers next to no good advice. My post that you slammed definately offered advice and a specific shot sequence that a guy can try out and either flush it like a smelly turd or use it like myself but none of the other posts give that choice.


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## trumankayak (Dec 28, 2011)

I didnt slam your post...your post was informative.
this was what was uncalled for:
"The only post that was worth reading up to this point was the one by jame"

And a forum board can never teach someone to properly shoot a hinge. General ballpark maybe but an experienced by-stander sure help's.
obviously I have nothing to add. Sometimes I forget that ...


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## Bigjim67 (Jan 23, 2006)

Trumankyak, those were my thoughts too, I've asked these same questions. I was just giving advice on how I learned the hinge. I can til not only by my scores, but also because I can let down now when the shot doesn't feel right or I lose my focus.
Jim


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## hrtlnd164 (Mar 22, 2008)

I believe a huge misconception by alot of archers trying to learn back tension is that they try to start building tension once they are aiming. This leads to freezing on the release and a shakey sight picture in my opinion. I feel the main key is to first learn what it truly feels like to anchor with the back muscles loaded. This piece of the puzzle sets you up for a much steadier sight picture and makes it much easier to relax throughout the shot sequence. Load at anchor and maintain steady tension, don't try to build tension as you are trying to aim.
Padgett; I believe this is also the point you were trying to get across.


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## hrtlnd164 (Mar 22, 2008)

Jame: I have watched a couple videos of your shot sequence and noticed the amount of rotation you speak of. Also noticed how you load up at anchor. Question is: does the release rotation you have come from more of a relaxation through your hand and wrist while just maintaining tension? Or do you try to build tension through the shot sequence? Thanks for your input.


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## proXarchery (Apr 9, 2004)

get the heaviest triggered release you can find this way u can put pressure at any time and not set it off . this gives you confidence that your in controll.now get your sequence the same , example set ,look at target; draw with thumb on trigger light, get on target , and then start the MOTOR of aim at target and pull till it goes off, just trust that if you hold it there, at the end of the day the arrows were all pretty close to center. Aiming drills with out shooting helps also. The results will get better after a while , remeber the mind only likes to do one thing good at a time, so dont think about the release hand when your shooting just aim and shoot the shot. practice is for thinking ,tournaments are for aiming and shooting. good luck.


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## Black Creek (Dec 29, 2011)

Ha! I use a regular wrist release. When TP happens I tape my finger up so I can squeeze it or bend. Have to force it to make it fire. Just a little ******* remedy.


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## 3-D Quest (Jan 26, 2007)

LMHO! That's some clever ******* ingenuity! Now why I didn't think of that?!


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## Jame (Feb 16, 2003)

hrtlnd164 said:


> Jame: I have watched a couple videos of your shot sequence and noticed the amount of rotation you speak of. Also noticed how you load up at anchor. Question is: does the release rotation you have come from more of a relaxation through your hand and wrist while just maintaining tension? Or do you try to build tension through the shot sequence? Thanks for your input.



Its more of my relaxing my forearm which relaxes most of the muscles in my draw arm. When this happens the release rotates with the built up tension I have on my draw side. This is why I have it set slow so there is movement and I am able to relax before I ever start aiming. As soon as I get to my anchor. Then I have plenty of time to aim and allow the shot to happen. .
jame


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## Blaylock6502 (Mar 1, 2012)

So I have my hung set extremely slow and applying tension as soon as I get to my anchor and shooting everything at a comfortable distance and everything is going and feels great. My question is how long of a process should this be? Im shooting around twenty yards now should I give it a couple weeks and add 5-10 yards?


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## Jame (Feb 16, 2003)

Blaylock6502 said:


> So I have my hung set extremely slow and applying tension as soon as I get to my anchor and shooting everything at a comfortable distance and everything is going and feels great. My question is how long of a process should this be? Im shooting around twenty yards now should I give it a couple weeks and add 5-10 yards?


Its kinda like this. Shoot there as long as it takes you to be able to shoot every shot fluid and relaxed but aggressively. If you cant do it every time at 20 then theres no need to try it at longer distances.
Jame


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## geezer047 (Mar 11, 2007)

Well, guess I'll throw in my 2 cents:wink: Now I'm as guilty as anybody, been struggling with it for years. What I'm seeing is over aiming. Not just letting the pin sort of float around where you want to hit. Trying way to hard to hold the pin steady instead of just focusing on where you want the arrow to go. OK pin steady- shoot- no wait pin floated off- shoot now- no don't shoot- shoot- no- shoot- no- punch, flinch, jerk etc. Been dealing with this for a while, now working with focus, heck with aiming. Let the eye and brain tell the arrow where to go. How many times have you made a good shot and wonder how I'd hit that, the pin wasn't even close or there is an arrow 3 inches from where you want to hit and still hit the arrow. You where actually focus on the spot or the arrow when the release went off. Relax, focus, let the pin driff around don't think about the release. Easier to say than do tho.:wink: But it works.
Charlie


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## Btension (Jun 28, 2011)

Bigjim67 said:


> I use a clicker on my hinge, and when I get my pin close to the target than I let the clicker go off. after that I will only concentrate on the spot I am aiming, sure the pin moves around, and let it. If you try to hold your pin steady its going to move more, I don't really concentrate on the pin during shot execution. If the shot doesn't go off in the amount of time in my head I reset and go through shot sequence again.
> 
> You have to remember the eyes can only do one thing, but the subconscious can do allot more!
> 
> I'm not professional, I have found a way to shoot and you will have to find something that works for you, just take the information from all these other shooters and come up with your own style.



I do exactly the same and this works for me as well.


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## Blaylock6502 (Mar 1, 2012)

geezer047 said:


> Well, guess I'll throw in my 2 cents:wink: Now I'm as guilty as anybody, been struggling with it for years. What I'm seeing is over aiming. Not just letting the pin sort of float around where you want to hit. Trying way to hard to hold the pin steady instead of just focusing on where you want the arrow to go. OK pin steady- shoot- no wait pin floated off- shoot now- no don't shoot- shoot- no- shoot- no- punch, flinch, jerk etc. Been dealing with this for a while, now working with focus, heck with aiming. Let the eye and brain tell the arrow where to go. How many times have you made a good shot and wonder how I'd hit that, the pin wasn't even close or there is an arrow 3 inches from where you want to hit and still hit the arrow. You where actually focus on the spot or the arrow when the release went off. Relax, focus, let the pin driff around don't think about the release. Easier to say than do tho.:wink: But it works.
> Charlie


I think you hit the nail on the head because many times I find myself in the shot process and my pin moves off of where I want to be and I try to hold up until I can move it back


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## archer60x (Nov 24, 2008)

rapturebows said:


> What you need to do is blind bale for one month 5 feet from bale eyes closed.Do not shoot an arrow with eyes open.Use good form with your eyes shut it won't trigger the shot you'll find what a good shot is supposed to feel like.It takes dedication to get rid of it.After a month you can start shooting at slow plate at ten yards when that feels comfortable move back another five yards and same move further.If all feels good after awhile you can shoot at a dot this may take two weeks after the month of blind bailing.Do not shoot a tournament in this time of rehab.!!!!!!!.If any time you feel anxious go back to close shooting.Your confidence in your shot will come back.Good Luck.EF.


Great advice but I would also add that when blank bailing I open my eyes after a few days on one in ten shots (approximately) because it helps to steady my shot and helps to prepare me to start shooting at different distances and targets. If I start to have problems I go back to the bail and start over! Hope this helps!


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## Blaylock6502 (Mar 1, 2012)

Just wanted to thank everyone for the input! I went to the local bow club today took my hinge and shot everything at roughly 20 yards. It went great! There were a couple that I feel I rushed and maybe jerked a bit but overall it was awesome! I did find that one thing that bothered me regardless of distance was footing. When on a hill or something like that I felt more of a need to jerk. Do you think I should try to avoid that for a while and work it in slowly or work through it? It wasn't bad but definitely still there


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## Blaylock6502 (Mar 1, 2012)

Any thoughts on my previous post?


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## J Whittington (Nov 13, 2009)

Don't try to play the power game. What I mean is shooting heavy poundage to shoot fat arrows. Shoot lite as poundage as you can, find an appropriate spined arrow. 280s is fast enough speed.


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## Blaylock6502 (Mar 1, 2012)

I have an 07 bowtech ally with 70lb limbs set at 62lbs shooting vforce hvs. I would really like a new rig with 60 lb limbs and shoot it closer to 50 but I've been guilty of trying to get in the equipment race thinking different equipment would help. I feel like the ally is a good bow and as many have suggested its not an equipment problem but a major flaw with my mental game. I feel like with what I did Sunday (shooting everything at a comfortable distance and worrying only about shot execution) im on my way but anything someone has to offer my appreciative ears are open


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## geezer047 (Mar 11, 2007)

Again, I'm far from being an expert. Whatever you can do wrong I've already did it:wink: OK, uphill, downhills you'll have a tendency to raise or lower your bow arm and tilt your head forward or backward. This changes your anchor some and makes a hinge harder to go off. Draw from where you have been drawing from on flat ground and keep your upper torso straight, bend forward or backwards at the waist. What you have to do is maintain your form, head erect, shoulder down and locked, consitence anchor. Hard to practice these shots at home. Uneven footing is tough to master too. I just try to relax either the front or back leg a little depending on the slant. Drowhill are easier for me than uphills, feels unnatural coming up to the target instead of dropping down to it. Anyway, you're on the right track. Keep at it,relax and don't overthink it. Have fun
Charlie


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## Blaylock6502 (Mar 1, 2012)

Thanks charlie I appreciate it!


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

I am a year and a half invested in learning back tension and I absolutely love it. Tonight I was shooting groups at 50 yds until the light started getting low and I moved up to 20 yds and did one of my favorite drills, I shot one arrow and then went and got it and each time I shot a different release. One was a thumb trigger, one was a bernies nuckle under, and one was a ultra sweetspot 2. I use the same firing sequence to make all three of them go off and the more I do that drill the more I am becoming proficient and comfortable with all of them, I do have a favorite and it is my sweetspot, but I shot one of my highest scores of the year this weekend with the thumb trigger on sunday. I shot 38 up on a 40 shot course and it was the first time I ever used a thumb trigger on a course, I didn't use it because I lost confidence in the sweetspot or something like that. I used it to see how good of a score I could get with it simply because I had never used one on a course before, that is what I have been working for all these months a method that allows me to be versitile and confident with any release out there and not be stuck only using one because my fundamentals are weak.


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## Blaylock6502 (Mar 1, 2012)

I've sort of done the same thing I have a truball chappy boss that I love and a truball btgold that I love but the neck is so long on the chappy boss that my anchor was completely different so when id switch back and forth it took some adjusting so I traded a Stan element that I could not get used to for a carter target that fits very similar to the btgold and set it heavy and fire it like a backtension. It seems to keep my form true not getting in a rut


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## mat-le-cru (May 13, 2012)

To sum it up, what really really helped me with target panicpunching the trigger and not being able to settle on a blank target is. You have to practice feeling comfortable on target with your finger (thumb) on the trigger WITHOUT squeezing the trigger. When i would get my pin on target i used to slowly bring my finger acrross to shoot. Your pin will be off target by the time it takes ur finger ( thumb) to come accross to squeeze the trigger. In turn i would punch it every time. Thinking in my head i better shoot while my pin is on target because it might move and make a bad shot. So practice holding your pin where u want it with your finger or thumb on the trigger WITHOUT squeezing the trigger! !!!! Even if you have to let down. Tellyourself out loud if you fave to


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## mat-le-cru (May 13, 2012)

Tell yourself out loud if you have to DO NOT PULL THE TRIGGER and see how long you can hold your pin on targetwith your finger or thumb on the trigger.


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## richardr1246 (Mar 28, 2010)

First you got to understand why we have target panic. Target panic comes from trying to do two things at once. Aim and release. Well, the simple fact is it is impossible to do more than one thing at a time. Most archers that have target panic are trying to punch the trigger while the pin is floating around the target, trying to co-ordinate pin-on-target and release at the same instant. Also keep in mind you cannot see the present; there is always a delay so we see only in the past. In some cases the delay can be up to a second. That's really a long time if your pin is floating. So, whatever release you choose you have to learn to make it go off as a bit of surprise. Close your eyes and shoot at a close bale until you get the feel. Just aim, the release must be subconscious. Initially you will shoot poorer but, eventually when you get to trust in the principal you will steadily improve your accuracy. Strengthening you upper body and shortening your draw length can do wonders for "holding steady". This takes time. Remember practice does not make perfect. Perfect practice makes perfect. Aim, aim, aim. Good luck. There is a lot of good help out there. Try Bernie at robinhoodvideos.com he has a bunch of helpful videos and will talk as long as you are willing if you phone him.
Rich


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## Blaylock6502 (Mar 1, 2012)

Ok so I went to the local bow club again today. Again I didn't even pick up a score card and I shot everything between twenty and thirty yards. last week I felt I had 15 out of twenty shots that were good. This week it was more like 18. It was awesome. I've shot 3d since I was 8 years old. Now im 28 and have had this issue since day one. In the days before 11s and 12s I shot the hunter class and was averaging in the 270s-280s which was good but I was always frustrated because I knew I could do better if it weren't for the target panic I just found a way to make myself as good as possible with it. Even with my highest scores ever there was alot of disappointment to the point I would give it up at some point through the summer. For the first time I feel like im on the right path and getting closer everyday to being the shooter I know im capable of being and I owe that to all the guys that have contributed to this thread and a.t. I cannot thank you all enough!!!!!


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## AJ the TP Guru (Jul 29, 2011)

The neme on the release aid doesn't matter. It's harmony of the minds that matters. Conquer that, and you won't have any TP problems.


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## Blaylock6502 (Mar 1, 2012)

Made another run at the 3d course today and for the first time since beginning my "rehab" I shot from the open stake. The shots are what I souls consider pretty short for open(35-40 yards some even shorter) It went very well but did have some trouble I would like some opinions on. I started shooting at 7 to try to beat the heat. In the woods it was a nightmare. I have a 4x lens on my Hha and a #1 clarifier. I could see very little in the woods it was nearly a complete blackout. I tried removing the clarifier and it helped very little and gave me a very very fuzzy sight picture. Should I ditch the lens and and clarifier or could this have something to do with the quality of my lens? I have pretty good vision with my contacts. Any thoughts?


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## ilkilmore (Apr 23, 2012)

Which Bassham book is best?


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## Blaylock6502 (Mar 1, 2012)

I haven't read any of basshams books but I did read precision archery. It was a good read but I realized half way through that it was mainly for traditional archers. Still alot of valid points tho.


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