# Arrow Tru-ing Tool!!!!!!



## olemil4me (Mar 1, 2008)

looks good have you seen the lumenoc one yours looks very similar to it after i saw it i was thinking i could make one too for alot cheaper nicely done how does the arrow spin on the aluminum the one lumenock has is plastic i beleive.


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## HoytArcher08 (Jan 5, 2010)

it spins fine the only thing is i used 320 grit sand paper....which is pretty fine...i dunno if i need to go finer yet because you really have to press down on the arrow as you rotate because it bites into the grit!


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## dustyvarmint (Dec 22, 2005)

Nice - I'd like to see bearings which shouldn't be that hard to install or cost much? Good note on the 320 grit..

happy hunting, dv


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## olemil4me (Mar 1, 2008)

bearing would be a sweet addition to it dont know if you have seen the lumenock one but they use a silver marker on the arrow so you can tell when got it square do a search on you tube for f.a.s.t by lumenoc that should find it if you want to see it


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## Stab 'em (Dec 26, 2008)

Great DIY tool. Though it works well for the insert end, I shouldn't have bought that ASD for $20.00+ and made my own versatile tool for less than $5.00. Skate board bearings are not expensive and will be a great compliment to that tool.


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## caspian (Jan 13, 2009)

if the things are cut true in the first place then no truing is necessary.

every one of these tools I have seen is an attempt to compensate for a ham fisted cutting process in the first place. or an answer to a problem that has not been asked.


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## HoytArcher08 (Jan 5, 2010)

caspian said:


> if the things are cut true in the first place then no truing is necessary.
> 
> every one of these tools I have seen is an attempt to compensate for a ham fisted cutting process in the first place. or an answer to a problem that has not been asked.


Well its funny that as many people sit and say their arrows are cut straight! they are full of sh%* 8 out of 10 times! my local proshop has a high-end arrow chop saw and I checked them yesterday! Not ONE was cut perfectly straight! I watched american archer last week and the episode were Tom Nelson explains this is what made me make one! i really don't care about the insert end im perfecting the nock end, reason for this is the nock will have 100% contact 360 degrees around the arrow shaft so that when you release the arrow there is NO force applied to one side of the shaft or the other! which will produce side to side or up and down arrow flight...depending on were low spots are on the shaft!


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## Shootin Jim (Dec 27, 2010)

HoytArcher08 said:


> ... so that when you release the arrow there is NO force applied to one side of the shaft or the other! which will produce side to side or up and down arrow flight...depending on were low spots are on the shaft!



Umm, except that the nock has a supporting structure which extends inside the arrow's shaft, and because of this, the force is transmitted through the ID and not only against the butt of the shaft. If your nock is sloppy, then you have a valid claim, but then it also wouldn't stay in...


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## kzz1king (Jan 21, 2007)

Shootin Jim said:


> Umm, except that the nock has a supporting structure which extends inside the arrow's shaft, and because of this, the force is transmitted through the ID and not only against the butt of the shaft. If your nock is sloppy, then you have a valid claim, but then it also wouldn't stay in...


Could not one say the same about the insert?

I will post some pics of mine. I like to square both ends of the shaft and then the insert as well. Takes a minute or so way not! I have never had a broadhead not spin correctly when doing this. My arrow saw is not state of the art and does cut them a bit of at times.


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## olemil4me (Mar 1, 2008)

i watched the same episode of american archer it was very interesting may have to get one and see just how square mine are and if it makes a diff.


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## HoytArcher08 (Jan 5, 2010)

Shootin Jim said:


> Umm, except that the nock has a supporting structure which extends inside the arrow's shaft, and because of this, the force is transmitted through the ID and not only against the butt of the shaft. If your nock is sloppy, then you have a valid claim, but then it also wouldn't stay in...


Last i knew plastic!, which is nock material!, is flexible! not rigid like steel! so therefore your structure inside your shaft is still movable under the force from today's high cam bows!


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## HoytArcher08 (Jan 5, 2010)

kzz1king said:


> Could not one say the same about the insert?
> 
> I will post some pics of mine. I like to square both ends of the shaft and then the insert as well. Takes a minute or so way not! I have never had a broadhead not spin correctly when doing this. My arrow saw is not state of the art and does cut them a bit of at times.


Hey i agree with the insert end aswell i just was mentioning the nock end...becasue when the G5 tool came out their market was the insert end! nothing to do with the nock end!


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## MrHoss (Aug 13, 2007)

I have been thinking of doing something similar to my Full Adjust Arrow Straightener. It already has the bearings and a micrometer to check for runout.


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## erictski (May 20, 2009)

looks perfect my man...as long as your arrow sits exactly 90* to your sand paper...looks like the Lumenok FAST that I have which i love...


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## Ancient Archer (Sep 25, 2008)

I made this one up from a scrap block of aluminum using a table saw and a drill press to cut the shoulder & drill/ream the holes. The shoulder end is used to square the nock end with fletching on & the full length is used for either end w/o fletching.
Simply place a sheet of 400 grit paper on a flat surface, such as a table saw, or drill press table, insert the shaft into the block & slide the block on the paper while holding the shaft down against the table. I first apply colored ink from a Sharpie to the end of the shaft to be squared. Works very well & costs less!


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## Lumenok (May 1, 2008)

Nice work folks. I have been talking about the factors that improve Lumenok function and arrow flight for years. Hoyt Archer08, your tool is a version of the F.A.S.T. by The Burt Coyote Co. Tom Nelson demonstrated it's use on the American Archer a while back. I applaud the efforts of the people who take it upon themselves to make what they need. It was a need for a Lighted nock that led to our developement of the Lumenok. Check out the video for the F.A.S.T

http://www.youtube.com/user/5Ivan7?feature=mhum#p/u/3/SCG0Lcl3_84 

The F.A.S.T. was a product of the need to eliminate the variables that adversly affected Lumenok function. Those 3 factors were squareness ( factory cut ends are routinely out.020")
Nock fit to the shaft ( 20# to 40# force to fully seat )
And Arrow construction ( 100% carbon shafts are conductive, some composite shafts are a real problem and some are coated with non-conductive primers or paint)

This is what we have produced with the Lumen-Arrow.

There is nothing better than watching an arrow that you have successfully tuned fly like a bullet downrange. Check out the HOW TO tips on our web site at http://www.lumenok.net/howto.htm 

The Lumenok is the only lighted nock designed to function "as" part of the shaft.


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## dsp3472 (Dec 27, 2004)

Lumenok, very good post. thanks for not bashing the original poster. two thumbs up to you and your company. archers helping archers


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## Lumenok (May 1, 2008)

dsp3472 said:


> Lumenok, very good post. thanks for not bashing the original poster. two thumbs up to you and your company. archers helping archers


If everyone paid as much attention to detail as the originator of this thread, Everyone would have better functioning Lumenoks. People don't know what they don't know. Honest discussion and open minded consideration are the attributes an archer needs to move to a higher level of accomplishment in the sport. Among all of the rash statements that I see on AT, on occasion, there is something said that is very useful and enlightening. 

Thank you.


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## pbuck (Mar 30, 2010)

Lumenok said:


> If everyone paid as much attention to detail as the originator of this thread, Everyone would have better functioning Lumenoks. People don't know what they don't know. Honest discussion and open minded consideration are the attributes an archer needs to move to a higher level of accomplishment in the sport. Among all of the rash statements that I see on AT, on occasion, there is something said that is very useful and enlightening.
> 
> Thank you.


Eric, you have made an impression on myself and others with these posts. I commend you for your efforts to help even though this is a copy of your company's design. Refreshing to say the least. :thumb:


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

Nice work Hoytarcher! As long as the specs are to a certain tolerance, it should work like a charm! I have been wanting one of these myself, and just for the record I am a fan of the Lumenok lighted nock design as well. I do not have a lot of experience with them, but, as long as there is good contact with the shaft on both sides, they will work perfectly.


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## flopduster (Nov 3, 2009)

Lumenok,

Bravo!


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## Don Schultz (Jul 5, 2002)

Very nice. That'll work well.


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## Sideways (Feb 13, 2006)

Eric, I don't want to hijack the OP's thread but I do want to know what type of dial indicator or end on the indicator is being used in the video to check the runout of the arrow end? 
Thanks


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## bowhntr26 (Jan 18, 2008)

Yes i would like to know what kind of guage is being used also


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## Don Schultz (Jul 5, 2002)

dustyvarmint said:


> Nice - I'd like to see bearings which shouldn't be that hard to install or cost much?


I'd be concerned about ball bearings getting fouled with sanded off material. I have the G5 and have never seen a need for bearings.


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## Raymond 1 (Feb 23, 2010)

Some good ideas on here. I would also like to know what that gauge machine is.
Raymond


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## Todzilla (Feb 27, 2005)

*Measuring instrument*

Dial test indicator is what it's called and they can be very expensive!
I'm a tool maker and found one that would be great for home usage. 

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1249


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## Lumenok (May 1, 2008)

Sideways said:


> Eric, I don't want to hijack the OP's thread but I do want to know what type of dial indicator or end on the indicator is being used in the video to check the runout of the arrow end?
> Thanks


I used a test indicator that I bought on from MSC for about $50. I think I said earlier that I built the tool to demonstrate what square was. I have a G5 tool as well. It is a very good tool for building arrows. The FAST that I build is for use with either bare shafts or fletched shafts. By simply using a silver marker on the shaft, you can acheive a dead square end with either tool. Mark the bach end of the shaft, use a squaring tool to cut all of the mark away and you have a square arrow shaft. 
As for using bearings, that would be slick, but it would not improve the tools ability to produce a square end on the shaft. Simple is always better than complex. It is archery, not nuclear chemistry.

Thanks for the support. Our products are made in the USA


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## jmeddy (Mar 4, 2006)

Being a part time cabinet maker I made something like this several years ago out of plywood. Attach 180 grit sand paper to the back with double side tape & "turn away".


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## caspian (Jan 13, 2009)

HoytArcher08 said:


> Well its funny that as many people sit and say their arrows are cut straight! they are full of sh%* 8 out of 10 times!


yes, because they are doing it wrong.



> my local proshop has a high-end arrow chop saw


two contradictions there: "pro" shop and "high end".

nobody who knows what they are doing would use a chop saw to cut arrows, and nobody who does could refer to themselves as a "pro" without others breaking out into laughter.


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