# DIY Buck Boiler Plans



## OutlawBiz (Oct 6, 2009)

I wanted to try one of these products, but was reluctant to spend $100 on one. So...a few days ago and I stumbled onto a website where a guy described his homemade Buck Boiler for $40 vs. $100. So, I went out & gathered the parts to construct my own. I haven't put it all together yet...but I will gladly share what I have learned & hopefully have successful pics of my boiled skull this weekend!

I went to our local Fleet & Farm store to gather most of my parts. What you need is:
*1) Bucket.* Galvanized works, but...the Buck Boiler utilizes a heavy duty rubber bucket. I found the exact same 18 quart flat-backed bucket for $14.99
*2) Water heater heating element.* MUST be 120v (not 240v heavy duty) with 1" NPT threads - $10.99
*3) O-rings.* Not sure if I will need, but I bought just in case I needed the extra 'seal'. They are 2 3/8" OD & 1 1/4" ID - $2.00 ea.
*4) Myers Hub conduit fitting with 1" NPT threads.* It is basically used to terminate electrical connections through a wall & has built-in o-ring for sealing. I had to purchase this directly from an electrical supply place. Some hardware stores may carry. - $10.00
*5) Electrical cord* / plug-in - free

Basically cut a hole in the bucket on the flat side towards the bottom (I'm going to go about an inch off the bottom) large enough to accommodate the Myers Hub fitting. Use the 2 o-rings if needed for additional seal. I have a feeling the rubber bucket will create a watertight seal itself making the o-rings unnecessary. Or, some sort of silicon if needed.

Push the water heater element through the Myers Hub, threading it on so that the element is NOT touching any part of the bucket (floating). I will use some Teflon tape on the threads as an additional seal too.

Cut the end off an old extension cord (i'm using an old computer power cable). Put some 'fork' terminals on the wire ends & attach to the 2 screws on the heater element. Cover all exposed wiring with #33 electrical tape as a safety precaution.

Fill the bucket with water, drop the skull in, plug the cord into a GFI outlet if available (more added safety). Water should start boiling in 10-15 minutes. Make sure to ALWAYS keep water in the bucket! As it boils / evaporates you will need to top it off. NEVER plug the cord in without water covering the element as the element could overheat & explode!

Here's some pics of the parts I have right now. I don't have the Teflon tape shown. Hopefully this works as well as I am told. If it does...I will have a $40 Buck Boiler instead of $100!

Once I get mine constructed in the next day or so I will post updated pics.


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## milsy (Jun 9, 2010)

Tagging for my own build......

Do the antler sit on the pail then to not become submerged? Will the skull rest on the water heater element???


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

Cool, gonna keep an eye on this and see your results. Thanks for sharing this!


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## OutlawBiz (Oct 6, 2009)

milsy said:


> Do the antler sit on the pail then to not become submerged? Will the skull rest on the water heater element???


It all depends on the size of the rack being put in the pail I suppose!? Most deer skulls will probably be submerged to the antler bases in the water. If the rack is much bigger...chances are you are doing a full head mount not a European on it anyway! 

I thought of the 'nose' of the skull resting on the heating element last night too! My solution (I think) will be to bend an aluminum 'shield' to sit over the heating element so that the 2 don't contact each other. I suppose a piece of 2x4 wood or anything could be placed into the bottom of the pail for the skull to rest on too (anything 'taller' than the heating element itself). You could probably place the skull in the bucket at 45deg to the heating element too. The heating element would then be under the 'jaw' area vs at the nose.

I hope to construct all the pieces tomorrow & I will definitely post updates pics along with any helpful tips I may encounter along the way. Stay tuned...


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## nixwasa (Apr 18, 2011)

I have done some european mounts with a similar set up, mostly moose skulls boiled over open fire. Just a tip, it seems that if you put the whole skull under water it takes a LONG time before you get the skin and meat off. If you keep the water level just below the skull (steam boil) it will go a lot faster. You can also use a pressure washer to remove the meat and skin, it is very effective if you have a rotating nozzle it will take almost everything clean off. It is something i don't recommend that you do on your driveway because it can get REALLY messy...


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## $bowhunter$ (Jun 28, 2010)

ill be following along on this one!!


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## Chris Bolander (Aug 12, 2012)

Might give this a try..But Ill probly buy the wife a new hair dryer and steal the cord off her old one then she'll be happy to lol


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

Chris Bolander said:


> Might give this a try..But Ill probly buy the wife a new hair dryer and steal the cord off her old one then she'll be happy to lol


 Now here's a guy that knows how to play his cards...lol My line of thinking!!


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## OHIOARCHER36 (Oct 12, 2010)

in for results


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## patdaily (May 9, 2003)

Looks great!
I have been using a 5 gal Thompson's water seal container that I cut the top out of and a single stove type burner I bought at Fred's for $10 for the last couple of years. I set 4 bricks around the burner and then set the bucket on the bricks over the burner. 
A word of caution to you, if you submerge the antler or bases in BOILING water the antler can crack. Ask me how I know!
I always try to keep the antler above the water line using C clamps. The steam from the simmering, not boiling water loosens the flesh. 
One other thing I have learned is to scramble the brains with a coat hanger and remove them along with as much flesh as possible and wash it down real well with the water hose before ever putting them in the simmering water/dawn soap solution. The more fat you remove before cooking the cleaner the skull will be. 
Tagged for results.


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## GWFH (Jan 22, 2006)

patdaily said:


> Looks great!
> I have been using a 5 gal Thompson's water seal container that I cut the top out of and a single stove type burner I bought at Fred's for $10 for the last couple of years. I set 4 bricks around the burner and then set the bucket on the bricks over the burner.
> A word of caution to you, if you submerge the antler or bases in BOILING water the antler can crack. Ask me how I know!
> I always try to keep the antler above the water line using C clamps. The steam from the simmering, not boiling water loosens the flesh.
> ...


one trick thats been working well is to use a cloth of some sort for the area not submerged (becuase you want to keep the antlers out of the water).
I have a stainless pan that I can lay the skull flat in, and fill water up to the bases. The cloth covers the cap of the skull between the bases, and the hot water wicks along the skull.
I agree.....put the extra time in removing before boil so you dont spend more time than necessary under heat (and you dont burn your hands).


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## OutlawBiz (Oct 6, 2009)

Well...I promised an update on the construction process, and the skull boil results...so, here it is:

*IT WORKED GREAT!!!* I put it all together, filled it with water, added some Cascade dishwasher powder & the skull. Plugged it in and 6hrs later my skull was done! I never once had a breaker / GFI trip (one downfall to the actual Buck Boiler according to user reviews online). The bucket never leaked...it worked better than I even expected it would! I didn't take pics of the electrical connections (forgot). But, that is pretty simple...black wire to one terminal, white to the other, clip the green (ground) off. Just be sure to plug into a GFI for safety.

I was a bit concerned about how to cover the heating element so that the skull wouldn't touch it. I tried a large soup can over it, but the skull hit the can & wouldn't submerge deep enough. So, I just took the can out, positioned the skull so that the heating element was 'under' the lower jaw (not touching) and let it work. In hindsight....I'm not even going to worry about it in the future! Even if the lower jaw is touching the heating element...it didn't affect its performance. And, I'm not worried about 'burning' the lower jaw as it get tossed in the process anyways!

Here's some building process pics along with the close to final project. I plan to bleach the skull to whiten it a bit more yet. Overall...I am EXTREMELY pleased with my $40 Buck Boiler! Now, boil some for friends & make some easy money! 

*One word of caution...do this outdoors! IT SMELLS HORRIBLE!* 


1" Hole Saw








Insert Myers Hub Fitting (silicon around inside & out for added seal)








Thread Heating element (I used thread tape too)








Add fleshed-out skull & Cascade Dishwasher powder to water








Plug cord in, let simmer for 6hrs















Remove skull, rinse with garden hose & pick/remove any remaining meat


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## muskyff (Mar 1, 2008)

can you show a closer pic of the elecrical side of the element. was wondering how you covered it after you hooked up the cord. Thanks


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## OutlawBiz (Oct 6, 2009)

muskyff said:


> can you show a closer pic of the elecrical side of the element. was wondering how you covered it after you hooked up the cord. Thanks


muskyff~
I will take a pic tonight when I get home if you still need...however, all I did was wrap electrical tape over the 2 screw terminals. Nothing fancy. The 'electrical' side / end of the water heater element is OUTSIDE the bucket, so there is no direct contact with water. The heater element screws into the Myers hub and creates a water-tight seal to the inside. Only reason to tape the connections would be so they don't accidentally get touched/crossed...not for water-protection purposes.

I literally put ring-end terminal connectors on both the black & white wires, took the screws out, put the screws through the rings and re-attached. Cover with tape and done.

One step that I did forget to mention in the construction steps above though:
I used ONE of the large rubber o-rings on the INSIDE of the bucket around the Myers Hub before I screwed the Hub together! I smeared silicon on it to be an added seal between the bucket & hub. Not sure if it was necessary or not since the bucket is rubber...but it made me feel better about doing so!?


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## ndbwhunter (Sep 10, 2012)

Good work! Is this method any better than the traditional propane burner and turkey pot?


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## OutlawBiz (Oct 6, 2009)

ndbwhunter said:


> Good work! Is this method any better than the traditional propane burner and turkey pot?


I think so! There's no need to babysit an open flame or buy propane! Most people have electricity readily available.

Besides that...the heat is a CONSISTENT temp this way...more of a simmer than a boil which is more ideal so that the skull bones stay together. And the sense of accomplishment saying _'I made that'_!


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## YBSLO (Nov 3, 2005)

Kool...Thanks for sharing...Nice symetrical rack you have there! Real Nice!

Heck i think ive got the parts already..Ill use an old element from a used water heater & an old galvanized bucket!
Ill just have to buy the 1" threaded fitting.

Thanks
Again


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## $bowhunter$ (Jun 28, 2010)

did you whiten the skull any? and you submurged past the bases? is there any fading of discoloration???


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## OutlawBiz (Oct 6, 2009)

$bowhunter$ said:


> did you whiten the skull any? and you submurged past the bases? is there any fading of discoloration???


I haven't whitened this one YET. I plan to do that in the next couple days. Need to research that process a bit tonight. Last time I used a whitener from local beauty salon...but have heard 40% Peroxide works too.

The bases were submerged...didn't seem to affect them though!? When i do it again...I will wrap the bases with cloth, prop them up out of the water and let the water 'wick' up to the bases rather than submerging them.


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## OutlawBiz (Oct 6, 2009)

YBSLO said:


> Kool...Thanks for sharing...Nice symetrical rack you have there! Real Nice!
> 
> Heck i think ive got the parts already..Ill use an old element from a used water heater & an old galvanized bucket!
> Ill just have to buy the 1" threaded fitting.
> ...


Thanks YBSLO! Yeah, it was a pretty decent rack (139 6/8"). Not big enough to head mount...but too big to just chop the antlers off!


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## $bowhunter$ (Jun 28, 2010)

awesome tutoria!! i plan on doing this very soon! im thinking about trying to make a larger one mayb a 50 gallon drum to do multiple racks for people


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

OutlawBiz said:


> I haven't whitened this one YET. I plan to do that in the next couple days. Need to research that process a bit tonight. Last time I used a whitener from local beauty salon...but have heard 40% Peroxide works too.


 Might be interested in THIS


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

pretty cool


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## GWFH (Jan 22, 2006)

OutlawBiz said:


> I haven't whitened this one YET. I plan to do that in the next couple days. Need to research that process a bit tonight. Last time I used a whitener from local beauty salon...but have heard 40% Peroxide works too.
> 
> The bases were submerged...didn't seem to affect them though!? When i do it again...I will wrap the bases with cloth, prop them up out of the water and let the water 'wick' up to the bases rather than submerging them.


First I submerge the head (up to bases) in amonia for degreasing. Cut a strip of tshirt and cover the area exposed from protecting bases. Any liquid will wick up and do the same job. Rinse and let dry.

Then I recommend a product called "Basic White". Its a peroxider based powder that you add liquid peroxide to and mix up to desired consistency. I get it from a Sally's salon product store.
Brush it on and let it sit overnight. Repeat if you want it whiter but I usually get away with one application.
The tub can do at least 6 deer, and costs about $12 (my last one came with a free bottle of 40vol peroxide.
They also make a cream peroxide which is nice to have on hand. I squirt some deep in the nasal and brain areas to get the areas that are impossible to get by hand.
Once done, rinse with water and it looks great.


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## drako38 (Sep 30, 2009)

marked for later


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## shortstick28 (Oct 16, 2009)

In for later


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## outdoorfrenzy (Apr 21, 2011)

cool idea


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## GWFH (Jan 22, 2006)

I just rounded up my items:
1500 watt / 120v element was $9.99 at Lowe's, and the bucket was $13.99 at a local feed store. Got the myers hub and other components free.
I dont have any heads left to do, but have 3 lower jaws I'll test it with.

Some reviews said the element only worked for the first half doz heads.....even if thats the case, it will be cheaper replacing them than the propane.


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## Don Schultz (Jul 5, 2002)

GWFH said:


> Some reviews said the element only worked for the first half doz heads.....even if thats the case, it will be cheaper replacing them than the propane.


Keeping the element immersed whenever it is powered will be important to extending its life. The elements are going to run hotter than they would in a water heater because we are boiling the water, so it is at lease 35 deg F hotter than it would be in normal service. 

With regard to wiring; Please use the ground wire. An electrical box can be used by taking a hole saw to the back and making a hole the the wet threads of the heater element can go through. You may need an extension ring to make your box deeper. The ground will be attached to the box, which touches the hub which touches the water in the bucket. This will let your GFI outlet protect you from the whole wet soggy mess becoming electrified. 

You won't be able to have anything else plugged in the circuit that is being used for this purpose. Even a light bulb or 2 will likely trip the breaker or blow a fuse. 

I see potential for the bucket to be used for other cleaning projects around the house where hot water is desirable. Might be good for domestic relations.


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## Don Schultz (Jul 5, 2002)

Need to add that I bet the computer power cord runs very warm to downright hot in this duty. I would buy a heavy power cord with 12 gauge wire in it. I might talk myself into using something 14 gauge, but the 16-18 gauge of the power cord described is way to light. I am speaking from a 10 year career in industrial electrical maintenance.


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## OutlawBiz (Oct 6, 2009)

Don Schultz said:


> Need to add that I bet the computer power cord runs very warm to downright hot in this duty. I would buy a heavy power cord with 12 gauge wire in it. I might talk myself into using something 14 gauge, but the 16-18 gauge of the power cord described is way to light. I am speaking from a 10 year career in industrial electrical maintenance.


I am by no means an electrician...but, I can say from experience that the computer power cable I used seemed fine. I had it plugged in for 2+ hours inside the garage (until the smell was too much), then unplugged it & moved it outdoors for the remaining 4hrs. When I grabbed the cord to make the move...it actually crossed my mind that it may be warm...but it wasn't.


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## OHIOARCHER36 (Oct 12, 2010)

How about the conduit to the touch ? I just made one just as said here , gonna get it to work in the a.m. Do I need to add anything to water for the boiling ?


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## aberg (Jul 7, 2009)

Nice! I like this!


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## GaryZ (Jan 29, 2009)

That is a good idea. How long does it take to cook?


I know this is alittle bit of a hi-jack, but try an old propane turkey deep frier. They work really well and takes roughly 2-3 nights with boiling at night only. This is what we use at deer camp(shotgun), it passes the time and no electric required.


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## OHIOARCHER36 (Oct 12, 2010)

boiled my head came out good , still have stuff in canals . any ideas ? gonna borax it tonight , then hopefully in 24 hours or so begin the bleaching process.


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## MIbowhunter49 (Aug 5, 2010)

I'd tinker and try to get a slightly lower temp. That large gap in the skull along the length of the nose is from the skull expanding from the heat.

That's why most taxidermists (or good ones, for that matter) use bugs nowadays. However, done slowly enough, with a low enough temp, you can preserve the skull and get it clean.


Cool idea. I've got a couple thermo and heat transfer classes under my belt. I'd be curious to see if I could figure out exactly how much power you'd need to input for a specific temperature (assuming you could get a variable heating element).



Getting a lower temp would also allow the bucket to be used as a degreasing tank. Most taxis will let a skull sit in warm dishwash-soapy water for weeks if not months to get all of the grease out of the skull. It usually seems as if the skull is grease-free after boiling, but a lot of times it will resurface after sitting for a year.


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## tankdogg60 (Aug 1, 2005)

If the elements are exposed to air while on, they will ruin. Other than that, they should last a long while


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## bowhunter1527 (Jan 30, 2011)

You can normally hold the skull up in some kind of light and see the grease in it. Im going to try dish soap and acetone for 2 weeks when i degrease mine this year.


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## OutlawBiz (Oct 6, 2009)

OHIOARCHER36 said:


> How about the conduit to the touch ? I just made one just as said here , gonna get it to work in the a.m. Do I need to add anything to water for the boiling ?


I added Cascade dishwasher powder in the water to help as a degreaser. I added more about 3hrs into the boil too just to 'refresh' it.


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## OutlawBiz (Oct 6, 2009)

GaryZ said:


> That is a good idea. How long does it take to cook?


I had mine in for 6hrs & it was nearly 100% clean.


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## OutlawBiz (Oct 6, 2009)

OHIOARCHER36 said:


> boiled my head came out good , still have stuff in canals . any ideas ? gonna borax it tonight , then hopefully in 24 hours or so begin the bleaching process.


I just hit the 'canals' & other tight areas with remaining meat on them with a high-pressure garden hose. Pick a little & spray again. Didn't take long before it was nearly 100% clean.

Then mixed up some paste / bleach mix from Sally Hair Salon Supply & painted it on the entire skull...left it sit overnight, rinsed it off the next day & it is PERFECT!


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## outdoorfrenzy (Apr 21, 2011)

I there a way to control the heat?


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## TOBYT31096 (Oct 6, 2010)

looks good peroxide is all ppl down here use after they boil there heads and it makes them white as snow


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## jogr (Oct 2, 2010)

Haven't tried it but it seems like you could pull the thermostat and heating element from an old water heater and then you could adjust the temp to whatever you want. Lots of water heaters are replace due to leaking tanks but still have good electricals. A plumber might let you salvage parts off his trash.


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## Pride Hunter (Aug 6, 2005)

Very nice


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## codykrr (Feb 6, 2011)

Nice write up. I did a write up on a maceration method, but seemed to stirred up mixed feelings(people got butt hurt) so I stopped. I prefer maceration myself but this would be one heck of an awesome solution to speed up degreasing!!! 

I been using aquarium heaters, but there expensive and had two break! 

I just finishes a bull head that needs degreasing, might employ this idea into a 55 gallon drum!


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## PENETRATOR (Jan 20, 2013)

How do you keep it from getting too hot with no thermostat?


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## little_hubb (Dec 18, 2012)

marked for later


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## WMA HUNTER (Feb 19, 2012)

Tagged


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## Pigeonman (Apr 9, 2010)

Great POst!!! tagged for later, thank youo!


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## contryboy822 (Oct 14, 2008)

marked for later


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## benamen (Nov 7, 2011)

We used some equipment that we had kicking around to do an elk head a couple weeks ago. Got out my propane turkey fryer and set an old copper tub on top of it filled with water. Lit it up and let it simmer for a couple of evenings. Turned out quite nicely.


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## rkersh409 (Dec 14, 2007)

The pic shows a 1440 watt element, do you think a 2000 watt would get too hot for the bucket? 2000 watt is all Home Depot has.


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## randolph_ar (Sep 24, 2013)

Here is the Buck Boiler that I built this week and optesting today. I plan on doing my deer later this week. I got everything at Rural King. The bucket is a 18 Qt weatherproof flat back $18, heating element is a 1500W 120VAC bolt in $6, the cord is a 16AWG 3 wire for heavy appliance use $10. The heating element came with a paper gasket and a thick rubber ring gasket and so far haven't had any leaks. I have had it plugged in for about an hour and a half, the temp has stabilized at ~175*F. I have about $35 in the buck boiler and do not see why it won't last for a long time. Thanks to the OP for showing us how to build one.


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## rkersh409 (Dec 14, 2007)

Built mine this week and done my head today. Got the rubber bucket from Tractor Supply for $14. The Halex hub and element at Home Depot for about $17.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-in-Watertight-Conduit-Hub-16310/100176315

Worked great was about 75 degrees today and it actually started boiling. Done mine for 6 hours and was a little too long. Some of the thin bone got very brittle.

Thanks for the great post!


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## Jeagermeister (Apr 1, 2005)

Use an old crock pot....


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## theedz (May 31, 2006)

OutlawBiz said:


> Then mixed up some paste / bleach mix from Sally Hair Salon Supply & painted it on the entire skull...left it sit overnight, rinsed it off the next day & it is PERFECT!


Just wondering if you could let me know what the ratio or supplies that you used were? Did you just apply with a paint brush?


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## taggingout (Sep 22, 2009)

Tagging for later. Thanks for posting.


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## BowTech Dave (Feb 27, 2003)

Thanks goes out to the OP. Been using mine for the past few months. Onky have $38 with everything.


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## Mineisbigger27 (Jan 3, 2012)

Awesome idea. I was planing on making something like that but instead opted to buy one of these:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Coleman-One-Burner-Propane-Stove/20369794

Metal bucket with arm and hammer super washing soda. One small propane cylinder is good for two skulls at about $3 each


Just another option but I'll probably still do one like yours just to do it.

Thanks
Bret


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## BowTech Dave (Feb 27, 2003)

That works. I like the hot water heater element. The temperature stays constant and rolls the water not boil. My skull take no time to clean up.


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## SD BowHunter (Sep 24, 2008)

In my experience, don't let the water "boil" or the nose of the skull will start to separate. You want to keep the water temp below 225 degrees which is considered a "simmer".


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## BowTech Dave (Feb 27, 2003)

That is true.


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## Mineisbigger27 (Jan 3, 2012)

You make a good point Dave. I have to make one now  My buddy uses superglue to glue skull seams so they don't separate


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## BowTech Dave (Feb 27, 2003)

Well I've done several with mine. Just seems easier plus I don't have to monitor flames. I set the skulls in, plug it in, set my timer for 1 1\2 hours then let it cook. Unusually it only takes a couple times and a little picking then I'm done. Good luck and let us know how it works out for you.


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## saltwell (Jan 6, 2012)

tagged


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## Supermag1 (Jun 11, 2009)

Great idea! Marking for later.


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## theedz (May 31, 2006)

Do they come out white or more of a yellow/off white color?


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## SD BowHunter (Sep 24, 2008)

theedz said:


> Do they come out white or more of a yellow/off white color?


They're usually yellowish/off white.. the bleach is what gets them white


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## BowTech Dave (Feb 27, 2003)

I don't use bleach. It breaks the bone down... I use whitening paste and chloroxide. I mix them into a thick paste and brush it on. I put the skull on top of my electric heater in a rubbermade and cover it with a cloth. The heat activates the chemicals and whitens them up.


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## Supermag1 (Jun 11, 2009)

Don Schultz said:


> Keeping the element immersed whenever it is powered will be important to extending its life. The elements are going to run hotter than they would in a water heater because we are boiling the water, so it is at lease 35 deg F hotter than it would be in normal service.
> 
> With regard to wiring; Please use the ground wire. An electrical box can be used by taking a hole saw to the back and making a hole the the wet threads of the heater element can go through. You may need an extension ring to make your box deeper. The ground will be attached to the box, which touches the hub which touches the water in the bucket. This will let your GFI outlet protect you from the whole wet soggy mess becoming electrified.
> 
> ...


Could you explain a bit more about the grounding, I can't quite picture how you're describing it.


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## Supermag1 (Jun 11, 2009)

Put one of these together and since it was nice today I was going to try it out, didn't happen. Filled the bucket up and found multiple leaks both around the Meyers hub and the element even though I used thread tape and silicone everywhere. By the time I get done with this I would have been better off buying one from cabelas or bass pro.


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## deerjitsu (Apr 3, 2013)

A buddy of mine nailed a button buck thinking that it was a doe so I figured I would throw one together. Got the heater element, a washer, some silicone, and some PVC fittings that could screw onto the element. Grabbed an old rubber maid bin and a cord I had laying around. After 20 mins of work I was up and running. 2 things I noticed. First: The Rubbermaid bin was too flexible. I grabbed a couple pieces of plexiglass, liquid nail, the hole saw and that after reassembly the area surrounding the element was rigid enough to support it. Problem solved. Second: Because I used a larger bin, the water didn't boil, it only simmered. It was really as warm as I would wash my hands in. I used a 120 volt 1500 watt unit. Does anyone have any recommendations on how I can run 2 of these on the same cord, in sequence without blowing a fuse or so I just need to get a different tub.


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## pacnate (Sep 23, 2009)

Is it best to put some type of soap in while boiling or just plain water?


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## BowTech Dave (Feb 27, 2003)

Dawn dish soap (degreaser)and Arm & Hammer Washing Soda (turns the meat to a jelly consistency.)


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## Stik-an-String (Aug 30, 2012)

Awesome, tagging and plan to build one soon as I can get the supplies. Thanks for posting!!


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## SamPotter (Aug 31, 2012)

I tripped over this thread when searching for Buck Boiler troubleshooting/repair advice. I've had a Buck Boiler for a couple of years and it worked great (30-40 heads) until the end of last spring. I've taken it apart twice and removed a ridiculous amount of rust and slake from the elements. Even after cleaning it I can't get it to heat above 140 degrees. Upon seeing this thread I decided to see what the local Tractor Supply had for tank heating elements. They were sold out of the drain plug type but did have this 1000 watt unit for $36.99. I bought one of those flat-backed buckets for $9.99 because I wasn't sure if this thing was going to work and I'd have to buy one of the drain plug styles anyway (the manager suggested I try it and if it didn't I had 30 days to return it.) Anyhow, this thing is up to a little over 170 right now. I'm waiting to see where it tops out at. If it gets too hot I'll need to look for some type of auxiliary thermostat. If this works (looks like it will) it is a lot simpler than the OP's plans. Like I said- I loved the Buck Boiler, but I'm not shelling out another $100 yet.

















I found it on Amazon for $39.99. The reviews are the most interesting part. People are using it to heat hot tubs and swimming pools! The big thing about this unit is that it is a HEATER, not a de-icer, so it has no thermostat and will not shut off on it's own.

http://www.amazon.com/Allied-Precision-Premier-742G-Bucket/dp/B000BDB4UG


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## SamPotter (Aug 31, 2012)

Today I ordered a thermostat control unit off Amazon which shipped for about $27. I am going to add this so I can maintain a 180-190 temp and not over to prevent damage to the skull.

Here is the skull I did yesterday after it had dried:


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## SamPotter (Aug 31, 2012)

I wired up a temperature controller for my DIY skull boiler to keep the water temp consistent.

STC-1000 temperature controller (~$20 on Amazon) , electrical box ($10 Home Depot), single female outlet ($3 Home Depot) , and corded GFI ($25 Home Depot), all ready for assembly.


Wired, just prior to closing the box.


It works! The outlet on the left side of the box is where the heating element gets plugged in. 


I ran the controller with the heater for about 2 hours. In that time it took the water from about 30 degrees to 85. I currently have it set on 85 degrees Celsius (185 Fahrenheit) with a 3 degree tolerance (once the water reaches 85 the power to the heater shuts off until the water cools back down to 82). The tolerance can be set to the tenth of a degree. 
The controller came without a wiring diagram and I initially wired it improperly (safe, but the unit didn’t run). Once I did an internet search I was able to get it to work just fine. The controller can also be wired to run a compressor to cool as well. If I did this again I would try to find a cheaper GFI- maybe use one that is built into the outlet.


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## intheshaw (Sep 1, 2010)

Quick question on a semi-old thread. I just finished making my boiler, cost me about 35 total in parts and took maybe 30 min to build. I ran a test today, and in about 30 minutes of runtime, bucket was holding around 170 degrees. I didn't run it much longer than that, but it could have gone higher if I let it run, but it held 170 for 20 minutes before I unplugged it. 

My question is for temp control, has anyone used one of the outlet timers to regulate temp? I was tossing around the idea today, after returning from a lunch meeting to see the temp at 120 degrees after being off for over 2 hours. I figured that seemed really good, and then it hit me to possibly use the timer to run the bucket for maybe 15 minutes an hour, just to hold the temp around 150 I would guess.

If no one has done it, I may just try it this weekend if I find the time.


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## SamPotter (Aug 31, 2012)

intheshaw said:


> Quick question on a semi-old thread. I just finished making my boiler, cost me about 35 total in parts and took maybe 30 min to build. I ran a test today, and in about 30 minutes of runtime, bucket was holding around 170 degrees. I didn't run it much longer than that, but it could have gone higher if I let it run, but it held 170 for 20 minutes before I unplugged it.
> 
> My question is for temp control, has anyone used one of the outlet timers to regulate temp? I was tossing around the idea today, after returning from a lunch meeting to see the temp at 120 degrees after being off for over 2 hours. I figured that seemed really good, and then it hit me to possibly use the timer to run the bucket for maybe 15 minutes an hour, just to hold the temp around 150 I would guess.
> 
> If no one has done it, I may just try it this weekend if I find the time.


You are going to be babysitting that thing all day. The rig I made (post previous to yours) has worked flawlessly thus far.


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## unicornslayer (Aug 28, 2009)

I see one of these in my future


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## jpoire (Sep 18, 2012)

Marked for later


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## intheshaw (Sep 1, 2010)

SamPotter said:


> You are going to be babysitting that thing all day. The rig I made (post previous to yours) has worked flawlessly thus far.


I don't think I'll have to babysit it all day. I'm sure yours works great, I'm just cheap and not trying to spend any more money. The outlet timer I have allows you to set run time for a 24 hr period, one of those security timers. It won't work as great as your's but I have it set up to run the first 45 minutes, then only 15 minutes on and 30 off. I figured this should keep the temp fairly low, although there will be ups and downs, I don't see it being too much of an issue.

I'll let everyone know how it works, I've got on in the boiler right now.


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## intheshaw (Sep 1, 2010)

Well I finished my skull this past weekend but was too busy to get online. I was able to simmer off all the meat in two afternoons. I ran the timer for 45 minutes constant on to warm up the water and the 15 on/15 off. The 30 minutes off I had originally tried was too long because it was a very windy day and the water cooled too much.

I then degreased for a couple of days with some dish soap, changing the water each day until there was no more fat. 

All in all, this was a pretty easy ordeal and pretty much anyone could do it. The bucket set-up is very easy to make as long as you have minimal tools. Very happy with the outcome and thanks to the poster for the idea. All that I have left is building a mount.


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## cdn.Redneck (May 9, 2009)

pretty nice, saving this thread


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## Iowabowhunter15 (Jun 20, 2014)

Just built a boiler how you showed and it worked great! Cost $40 all together and was easy to put together. I just boiled last night so I will be putting peroxide on tonight. We have always had to use a turkey fryer and it just wasn't the best set up. This particular buck took a final slug to the eye so it is missing one side but I thought it would make a good looking mount! Thanks for doing this thread!!


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## 76chevy (Jun 3, 2007)

Marked


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## marshall1 (Feb 4, 2011)

Marked


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## Mrcnwlvrn (Feb 24, 2014)

Tagged


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## timber.adam (Apr 29, 2014)

Marked for later


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## redneck-archery (Jan 8, 2014)

tagged


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## mcowan101 (Oct 18, 2007)

Marked for later use


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## hoyt_buff (Aug 6, 2013)

Made one from the first gentleman's post...worked awesome!


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## curt1521 (Sep 29, 2011)

Tagged!


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## daminoman90 (Jun 30, 2010)

Made one this fall to avoid having to use the pot/burner I used last year...so much nicer!


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## TrpD345 (Jun 1, 2002)

Awsome idea!


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## antler fool (Aug 23, 2010)

great idea


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## PSE CRAZY (Feb 3, 2008)

tagged


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## hooiserarcher (Feb 20, 2011)

Had to build one. With a few tweaks of course.[emoji39]


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## strummer (Jul 25, 2004)

Cool build


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## OutlawBiz (Oct 6, 2009)

Well...I haven't been on ArcheryTalk all Fall (too busy hunting I guess)...was surprised to see how many additional posts / comments had been made since I made the original post on building a buck boiler! I shot another "European worthy" buck last weekend, so I had to get on here to refresh my memory on how long the boiling process took.

Thanks for all the nice comments on my build everyone...glad it's working out for everyone (except supermag1 who evidently couldn't figure out how to make it watertight)


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## Lkyman (Jan 10, 2010)

I have under $25 in my DIY boiler. Got the heating element (1400w) and coupling at Lowes, already had silicone & the cord was off an old skill saw I had to replace because it was frayed where it went into the saw, Atwoods had the bucket on sale for $5.88.

I did have to take a round file and remove a little on the inside of the coupling so the element would fit, took less then 5 min.

















Cruised right along at 200 degrees








Cleaned, drying before whitened


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## dwd2001 (Jan 24, 2004)

Tagged. nice work


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## grizzley30814 (Jan 8, 2009)

Subscribed for later, thanks for the pics and write-up.


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