# Homemade flemish jig never produces correct length?



## GoldArcher403 (Jun 25, 2014)

Hi all,
So FYI I'm actually and Olympic recurve shooter who just happens to like flemish strings better. I find them superior in speed and accuracy. However I am new to making them and I just recently created a homemade jig out of a 2x4 and some finish nails. I followed a design posted on poorfolkbows.com exactly, yet my strings never come out to the labeled length... Now, in all fairness *I am not using your traditional B50 dacron string* which could have something to do with it but its always an extreme shortage by upwards of 3 to 4 inches. I thought maybe it was how I was twisting but I reviewed the technique over and over again and still cant get the correct length. Can someone walk me through this process so I can get this resolved??? Thanks.


----------



## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

It's been my experience that getting the correct length on a Flemish twist string is more about how you're twisting than about the jig you're using. I've made 30 or so Flemish twist, certainly not an expert, and each time they come out a little different because I don't make enough to be totally consistent. The tighter you twist the bundles, the shorter the string will become. It just takes time and practice to get it right. The great thing about them is that you can take them apart and put them right back together so you can practice a lot without wasting a bunch of material.


----------



## GoldArcher403 (Jun 25, 2014)

Huntinsker said:


> It's been my experience that getting the correct length on a Flemish twist string is more about how you're twisting than about the jig you're using. I've made 30 or so Flemish twist, certainly not an expert, and each time they come out a little different because I don't make enough to be totally consistent. The tighter you twist the bundles, the shorter the string will become. It just takes time and practice to get it right. The great thing about them is that you can take them apart and put them right back together so you can practice a lot without wasting a bunch of material.


*Self consciously stares at trash can full of string...* haha good point. I took that into account though, Im trying to be as consistent as possible with twist but it always changes...


----------



## Jim Casto Jr (Aug 20, 2002)

Move your peg. If you're coming up "consistently" three to four inches short your getting a good idea for your personal formula.


----------



## Bowferd (Dec 15, 2007)

I needed to experiment with the strand length of my loops more than anything else. I finally ended with 8" and adjusted marks on the jig to work with that number.


----------



## Elgavilan (Feb 7, 2010)

The length they use on the string jig is the bow AMO length so the string will be 3" shorter than the bows AMO length. Don't ask me how I know! 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


----------



## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Jim Casto Jr said:


> Move your peg. If you're coming up "consistently" three to four inches short your getting a good idea for your personal formula.


What he said.

Make them the best you can, consistently as you can, and see what the peg gets you. Then, move your peg to compensate. If you want to make finer adjustments, you can simply take up a little more string before you begin the loop.


----------



## dhaverstick (Jul 26, 2006)

You never want to use jig plans where the numbers on the pegs represent AMO bow length or finished string length. Why? Because people use different formulas to come up with those end results. I always like to use 9 inches on each end to make my loops but some folks use more and some use less. Right there would give us different finished string lengths.

The jig should be marked to tell a person the STRAND length they are cutting for a given peg. Looking at the plans you used, the strand length at the 48" mark calculates out to be 60.815" (.625" + 28" + 2.095" + 2.095" + 28"). Generally, I use this formula for a recurve to give me a finished string length: AMO bow length - 4" So for a 48" recurve I need a 44" string. Calculating backwards from my 61" (I rounded up) strand length: 61" - 18" (9" for both loops) gives me a 43" finished string length. So at the 48" peg, I'm already at least 1" short on my string length.

I have seen this time and time again with string jig plans and I caution everyone getting ready to make a jig to actually measure out how long the strand is going to be at each peg. That way you know how much material you have to work with and can get an accurate estimate on what your finished string length will turn out to be based on whatever formula you use to get there.

Darren


----------



## berzerk64 (Nov 27, 2013)

I always make my jigs to string length plus X amount of inches. The jig is marked to the length of the strands. I'll usually take the required string length (NtN -3 or 4, depending), then add 12-14 . I'll have 6-7" for the twist and loop on each end, and twist the string to appropriate/desired brace from there. I tried following a jig pattern and had to use a cloth tape to measure the actual string length vice the AMO shown on the pattern, and had similar issues. Get a new cloth tape that you know hasn't been stretched out and measure your existing jig, if you have doubts about the lengths coming off of it. I've also gone shorter on the loop amount, gone as short as 5" to each end. It worked, but I feel a little better with a little more length to braid in the loop.


----------



## equilibrium (Oct 31, 2006)

*I make my flemish with two bolts attached to my work table. I prefer making 3 bundles. Example, 3 bundles of 6 strings. 18 total strings. I take the AMO length and add 18" to that. Example, 72" AMO = 90" distance between bolts. After I have my 3 bundles all waxed and ready, I just use my foot as a gauge for the beginning of the loop. I twist the bundles clockwise and then twist the string counter-clockwise. I do that until I've made about 32 counter twists, then bring it back to the main string and finish my twists. When I reach the bitter ends of the bundles. I use some serving material to tie off the bitter ends from unraveling. Then repeat on the other end. You of course will have to do some adjustments to fit what you like but, that's archery in a nut shell anyway. Once, I've finished the string. I attach one loop to the bolt and put 20 or so counter-clockwise twists in the string or as many to secure the end loops from unraveling. I pull on the string and start the threads to lock in, then I put it under tension for 2 hours to over night. After that, I remove it and check to make sure it doesn't twist up on itself. I think I covered everything but, I wont know until I hit send. I hope this helps or at least give you another perspective. *


----------



## ginoe (May 14, 2016)

I feel your pain  trying to make a Flemish string for my 70" longbow.

Built a jig, had the peg at 56 came out to 48". Good thing I have a recurve that can use it.
Moved the peg to 68, string came out to 58". Have another recurve that can use that one too.

Seems like my "personal formula" needs to move the peg up 6 more from 68 to 80 (gotta drill additional holes).
Too lazy now to try a third time as the pervious 2 attempts took the wind out of my sails.
Hopefully will post up a favorable outcome soon.


----------

