# Homemade Stuff?



## Bees

do a search for the home made scent killer

As far as home made tree climbing stuff, I am a good friend of mine and I don't cut connors on tree climbing stuff. Sorry can't help, but I must be over 700 posts by now


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## Misfire

I've made a few wingbone yelpers..

.


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## Misfire

one more.


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## Misfire

Here is a boat I built a couple of years ago for duck hunting. (The only thing I enjoy more than bowhunting.) It has been on many bowfishing and bowhunting trips allowing me access to public hunting grounds that I couldn't walk or drive to. 


.


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## huntaholic

I've "inked" some home made Wing bone yelpers!!! Namely those 2 that Misfire built!!!

I've also built some home made "lume-nocks" that are BAD A**!!!


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## Misfire

one more....


.


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## Ne_Archer

I got some plans for a homemade treestand.


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## Jerry/NJ

Most here know I make my own scent killer and have for years. I will post it later for those who dont have the recipe.


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## crackshot

huntaholic,
Post the pans for your homemade nocks. Seems like a good idea to me.


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## curverbowruss

:smile: MISFIRE--those are two real nice wing bone calls--VERY nice work


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## Jr. bowman MI

dude, I love his boat... josh


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## Jerry/NJ

Jerry/NJ said:


> Most here know I make my own scent killer and have for years. I will post it later for those who dont have the recipe.


*Ingredients for Scent Killer:

16 oz. (2 cups) Peroxide

16 oz. (2 cups) Distilled Water

¼ cup baking soda

1 oz. On non-scented shampoo

(Or adjust amounts to whatever size you make accordingly)

Let sit for several days (1 gallon milk jug works good with lid loose) *


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## huntaholic

I'll post the details on the nock later and try to get pictures of it. 

Here's another picture of Misfire's boat in action!! That thing is really something else!!! It's amazing with how shallow it'll draft!!!


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## Jr. bowman MI

do you guys bowfish out of it?


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## Tim4Trout

I've made some simple bench seats 
for ground blind hunting


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## Live4Rut

Cool thread idea


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## huntaholic

*Illuminated Nocks:*

You can do this with most all nocks that insert in the back of the shafts. I am working with Easton nocks and have done this to a couple of Gold Tip nocks. The Black nocks work great since they don't glow like the orange nocks do. I actually got this from another site but can't remember which one so here's what you need to do to make one:

1. Go to Wal-Mart or Bass Pro shops and get the Thill Nite Brite brand Bobber Light replacements. They're like around $2 or $3 each.

2. Take your nocks and get 2 drill bits. The first bit will be a 5/64 and the second will be a 5/32. Use the 5/64 to drill a hole from the insert part of your nock through the bottom of the fork in the nock. Try to center this hole as best as you can. This way when you release the arrow you will clearly see the "tracer" that follows. You can drill it out a little bigger but I suggest keeping it as small as possible so it's easier to track and not so blinding.

3. Next take the 5/32 and drill a short way up the insert part of the nock. Do NOT drill all the way to the end of the nock since this is the part that will hold the Thill Light in the Nock. Actually, you only want to drill about to where the line on the Nock will physically have the same outside diameter as your arrow so a little over 5/16 of an inch to 3/8 of an inch.

4. Insert the Nite Brite Light in the end of the Nock, It will turn on and this is not a problem since you want to get it in there as far as possible, so when you shoot the inertia and kinetic energy won't knock it out of the nock and down the shaft of the arrow to your tips.

5. To turn it off simply pull gently like you're trying to pull the battery our of the nock and it'll go out, if not you may have to wiggle it from side to side a little and it will go out.

You can make 3 of these for the same price as the Lume-Nock brand nock and these things have like a 24 hour burn rate on them so you just turn them on when you need them and off when you store them and you're good to go.

I'll get some pictures to post now


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## huntaholic

Here's the picture of the Nite Brite Lite and what the finished product should look like. I put another one next to the nock so you would be able to see how deep to drill the second hole in the nock. I'll try to get pictures of the nocks in my target tonight as well.


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## scottland

just one question? how many grains?


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## huntaholic

Scottland, it's not much.

I don't even see any change in anything when we're shooting, I just measured one out on my RCBS 5-0-5 Reloading scale and it shows just shy of 10.5 grains. Which is LESS than what ONE QuickSpin 4" vein weighs (12 Grains)!!!!!


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## huntaholic

Here's my arrow cut off saw. There was a post on AT that showed everyones and where to get the saw. I picked it up at Harbor Freight for around $20.00. Add some scrap plywood and trimed it out!!!


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## huntaholic

Another trick I've been doing is taking some 1/4" heat shrink (we use a lot of this stuff in Telecommunications) and cutting short lengths to put on my shafts for fletchings. I believe you can see it on the picture that I have posted above with the Nock behind the arrow (Thill Nock.jpg), its that black stuff under my Blazers. I haven't had any problems with it and when I go to strip off the vanes, I don't have any glue residue to clean up!!!! 

Just be careful when you apply the heat to shrink it on Carbon shafts!!!! Them babies get HOT!!!!!


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## huntaholic

Here's a pic of the 2 different nocks, sorry it's kinda blurry!!!


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## huntaholic

Here's one of the nocks in the target. I just shot a few rounds above the 2 Nite Brite Nocks to show the difference. 

Notice the grouping, pretty WIDE!!! I was speed shooting so those damn mosquitoes wouldn't feast on me!!!! I think that's the fastest I've ever shot 7 arrows ever!!!

It's for reference anyhow!!!


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## NirvanaFan

My father and his hunting friend make treestands. They've got a fold down camo seat, and are pretty darn comfortable. I'm not sure of the price, or the dimensions, but I'll try to get a couple pics of them up here soon


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## Byron

Huntaholic,

Do you have to turn the Nite Brite on before you shoot, or does it turn on automatically during the shot? I'm very interested in making some of these up for hunting, but want to be clear how I'll actually have to use them in the stand first.

Thanks,
Byron


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## huntaholic

byron,

You have to turn them on before you shoot. It's simply done by removing the nock and pushing the Nite Brite Lite into the nock then re-inserting the nock back into the arrow. 

Also if you are using them for hunting I suggest a Black nock. This way the only light you see will be from the little hole you drill in the rear of the nock after you release the arrow. ALL other nock colors WILL glow.

Pay attention to the drilling because if you drill the larger hole out too large your light will go out as soon as you release the arrow or when it hit's the target, depending on how loose the fit is in the nock.

You really want a snug fit there. I know some guys that just cram the Nite Brite Lite in the nock, you can do this too, just drill the smaller hole out in the end of the nock and stuff away!! The only problem with this route is it makes it difficult to turn the light off when you are done using it or you end up bending the Nite Brite Lite and that's just a pain in the ARSE!!!!


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## scottland

huntaholic said:


> Scottland, it's not much.
> 
> I don't even see any change in anything when we're shooting, I just measured one out on my RCBS 5-0-5 Reloading scale and it shows just shy of 10.5 grains. Which is LESS than what ONE QuickSpin 4" vein weighs (12 Grains)!!!!!


Sweet! Thanks for measuring that for me  

now I've got a reason to go to Wally-world tommorow (how i loath that place) :zip:

Only one last question, how do those lights look when a flo. nock. All my nocks are flo. green, and if I have to change them I will. I'm thinking they will be way to bright.


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## huntaholic

that one nock of mine is the standard Orange color and you can see how brite it is, I'd imagine with the Flo. Green it'd turn some shade of a green/red mix. The Nite Brite Lite is a red LED and it's really bright so it'll change the hue of the Flo. Green to some shade of reddish mix. You can get a green LED but I haven't seen those in Wally world. I've only found those at online stores.

You'll have to experiment with them to really see how brite they are. If you don't drill the hole in the back of the nock you will still be able to see it glowing (unless you have black nocks), but I like to see that little LED out there clearly at 40 yards!!!! It sure makes a difference.

Plus they're cheap!!!! So if you mess one up (nock or LED) you can just go buy another and it won't break the bank like the other brand of lumenated nocks will!!!!!


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## huntaholic

Ttt :d


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## AJ008

Made my own ground blide thats put a whittie in the freezer :shade: 
Made my own V-Bar Extention for my target set-up


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## jamaro

Can you post a pic of the night brite light and the nock... Just so I have an idea of what I am looking for...
Jason


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## huntaholic

Here is the picture of the Nite Brite Lite in it's package, This is the Green LED type mostly you will find the RED LED type.


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## huntaholic

Here's a picture of the Easton nocks I am using. 

Notice the hole I drilled out in the middle of the nock seat?


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## huntaholic

*Hey Scottland. . .*



> Originally Posted By *Scottland*:
> Only one last question, how do those lights look when a flo. nock. All my nocks are flo. green, and if I have to change them I will. I'm thinking they will be way to bright.


Here are a couple of pictures I have of a Flo. Yellow Easton Nock I have made up. As you can see it turns that little puppy Orange!!!!


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## huntaholic

Flo Yellow Easton Nock with Nite Brite Turned on. Hope this helps!!


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## Byron

I went to Wal-Mart and Bass Pro today - came up with a total of ONE Nite Brite! I'll play around with it this weekend. I did a Google search and found a thread on the Bowsite that added a twist - installing the neck section of another nock inside the shaft to allow the Nite Brite to be turned on automatically upon release. I'll be playing around with it this weekend.

Best Regards,
Byron


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## rootdoc

Hey Byron you have that thread you found with the on/off twist?? Please share!!

Thanks!!


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## Whitefeather

I read this thread...shut the computer down and went straight to Wal Mart for the lighted bobber replacements. I can't wait to try them out tomorrow after work. :thumbs_up

JP


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## Whitefeather

rootdoc said:


> Hey Byron you have that thread you found with the on/off twist?? Please share!!
> 
> Thanks!!


Not sure if this is it or not, but it's the one I found.

LINK 

JP


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## fgpatton-ky

*Thats a great job*

on them knocks. I look forward to trying to make some of them, thanks for info!


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## Whitefeather

I think i'm gonna try out some of them nocks this fall for our upcoming videoing. They'll look sorta like the military "tracer" rounds firing out of your bow and through the boiler room of a nice buck.  

JP


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## scottland

I went to 2 walmarts today, and one sports authority, and no lights  Only glow sticks.

So I just ordered 6 of them from Cabelas  which is fine anyway, because I wanted green ones, and cabelas sells them 

Now i just have to wait a few days :tongue:

BTW great stuff Huntaholic, thx for the pics, this is almost sticky material


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## Stormstaff

Tag...I wanna keep tabs on this thread


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## SgtBoneCrusher

im with storm........make this a sticky........!


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## Jerry/NJ

I dont want to drown Huntaholic's hard work and good posts but I am going to share my experiences with the homemade knocks so take it for what it is worth. I did all the above, made them and ended up so PO'd with them, they sit in a tray on my work bench and I went and got the Lumenoks and they are idiot proof or Jerry proof, whichever, LOL. Yes, they are more expensive but much more reliable than the ones I made illustrated here. Again, this is not to say dont do it or they are no good, just sharing my experiences. 
In fact BowhunterNJ was over last night and I was demonstrating the Lumenoks to him. You dont have to leave them on, when you shoot it comes on. I have no affiliation with Lumenok either.

http://www.burtcoyote.com/


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## SgtBoneCrusher

hey Jer, do you spray that scent killer on or bathe in it.......or both?


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## Jerry/NJ

Well Nick, I have my gear down in my shop area in my basement and I dress there with my under layers. After I shower I go down there and spray myself down all over (naked style), LOL. Then I dress. I take my outer garments in a rubbermaid container to put on when I get there. I use a plastic lightweight table cloth to sit on in my truck same side always so I am not picking up any odors from the truck seat. I carry a small bottle in my fanny pack and spray down my head, neck, hands area when I am done setting up. I use nonscented babywipes for my bow and arrows, DONT spray this stuff on your bow ! It is an oxidizer and will rust screws.


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## SgtBoneCrusher

does it make you feel like you have a film all over you? how about the shampoo in it?


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## 87Missouri

About halfway down this page are some pics of the homemade, strap on, treesteps I may try to build. http://www.missouriwhitetails.com/forums/viewthread.php?tid=14638#pid155329


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## Byron

Whitefeather said:


> Not sure if this is it or not, but it's the one I found.
> 
> LINK
> 
> JP


That's the one! 

Best Regards,
Byron


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## huntaholic

> Originally Posted by *Jerry/NJ*:
> I dont want to drown Huntaholic's hard work and good posts but I am going to share my experiences with the homemade knocks so take it for what it is worth. I did all the above, made them and ended up so PO'd with them, they sit in a tray on my work bench and I went and got the Lumenoks and they are idiot proof or Jerry proof, whichever, LOL. Yes, they are more expensive but much more reliable than the ones I made illustrated here. Again, this is not to say dont do it or they are no good, just sharing my experiences.
> In fact BowhunterNJ was over last night and I was demonstrating the Lumenoks to him. You dont have to leave them on, when you shoot it comes on. I have no affiliation with Lumenok either.


Jerry does have a valid point. I have made a bunch of these and sometimes I find a few that just flat out won't work! 

Essentially the lights for the home made items are a little LED on the end of a small battery. You have to push this in (LED) to get them to work. You will notice a little indention on the battery part and that is where the contact is made to turn the light on. I have found some of the LED's that wont keep in contact so what I do is take a small flat tip screwdriver (jewelers) and tap a little on that indention. This usually does the trick, but if not they're cheap!!! What instructions I have posted here is by no means the tell all!! I am just trying to let everyone know what I have that works for me!!!

I don't want to take anything away from the Lumenok product. The Lumenok product is absolutely wonderful and very reliable as Jerry states, but expensive ($11.00 each). This is a cheaper alternative.

It's a Pro vs. Con thing. If you are looking for something extreemly reliable, automatically works after installation every time, and cost is not an issue go with the Lumenok product, If you are looking for something you can do yourself and enjoy these little building projects do the home made version.

By the way, Jerry. . . so, uhh . . . what are you gonna do with those that are sitting in the tray on your work bench?!!!!!  :wink:


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## Jerry/NJ

Huntaholic, whatever I have left down there you are welcome to. I was using the Gold Tip nocks (black) with the allen screw and would take it out and drill it out more. It was a real PITA tho! 

I saw the Lumenoks on sale somewhere on the net for like $8 ..........I got a bunch of them awhile back on ebay for $5 a piece.


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## AK in PA

Broadheads made from circular saw blades. A hacksaw and file are the only required tools. Cost worked out to 11 cents per head. Two deer have fallen to them so far...


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## jamaro

In Alaska the kids used to make Ulu's out of saw blades.... they were cool
jason
:shade:


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## 87Missouri

*^*


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## hoytbwhntr

*scottland*

where did you find the green ones in cabelas and how much each?


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## venisonman

Misfire,

Would you mind showing or explaining how you built the boat? Directions , if possible. Was it from scratch, a kit or did you modify an existing boat? I really love the looks of that boat. How does it handle bigger water?, waves, etc?


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## Byron

Here's a link to the page at Cabela's. They have red, green and yellow at $2.99 each.

Best Regards,
Byron


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## alucanbob

*tree steps*

bowhunter education booklet has tree steps made out of rope and peices of 2 by 4s follow their instructions ; I ve used afew for years.


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## Misfire

venisonman said:


> Misfire,
> 
> Would you mind showing or explaining how you built the boat? Directions , if possible. Was it from scratch, a kit or did you modify an existing boat? I really love the looks of that boat. How does it handle bigger water?, waves, etc?


You bet....

I've replied to several PMs asking about the boat, so here are the specifics.

I bought the plans from www.gatorboats.com
It is the Duckhunter design. You can see design specifics and limitations there. It is basically a 14' flat bottom boat that is 48" wide and has upward sweeping sides.

Much more info and modifications can be found at gatorboat's sister site www.southernsportingdesigns.com

It was fairly easy to build and I have about 1200.00 in materials. It is plywood covered in fiberglass and 2pt marine epoxy. 

It's flat bottom can handle most any waters a conventional flat bottom jon boat can. It is not a big water design; and I use mine mostly in shallow water "swamps" and "flats". If your looking for a big water design that can handle big waves and open water there are other desings that are more suitable for that purpose.

I have used the boat for duckhunting, fishing, bowfishing and getting to secluded spots on public land to bow and shotgun hunt turkeys and deer. 

Good Luck and let me know if you have any additional questons. 

.


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## intheflats

use black nocks or your going to stand out in the woods.


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## venisonman

Thanks for the info Misfire!


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## DV1

Huntaholic, does your luminock project only work with nocks that insert...what about aluminum arrows?


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## Stormstaff

up. page 2 will not do


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## huntaholic

> Originally posted by *DV1:*
> Huntaholic, does your luminock project only work with nocks that insert...what about aluminum arrows?


It's the only nocks I've tried them with. I'm not sure how you would go about getting them to work with the Nocks that glue on. I know I have some aluminum arrows that have the inserts for nocks, but haven't tried these yet. Just working on carbons so far. Sorry. 

If you try it post up and let us know how it goes!


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## 87Missouri

Because of their rather small diameter, do you think these plans would work on an Easton Axis nock?


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## huntaholic

> Originally posted by *87Missouri:*
> Because of their rather small diameter, do you think these plans would work on an Easton Axis nock?


I'm not sure what the diameter of the Nite Brite Lite is, I'll go home tonight and measure one with a caliper and post. What is the inside diameter of the Axis nocks??


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## huntaholic

alrighty I measured one out with the Caliper and it comes out to .160 of an inch (or 5/16 of an inch) outside diameter, find out what teh inside diameter of the Easton Axis nocks are and you are good to go!!!


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## 1smoothredneck

huntaholic said:


> Here's my arrow cut off saw. There was a post on AT that showed everyones and where to get the saw. I picked it up at Harbor Freight for around $20.00. Add some scrap plywood and trimed it out!!!


huntaholic, I have followed these saw threads. Long term, how are the results w/ carbons??
Thanks in advance.


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## Whitefeather

Whitefeather said:


> I read this thread...shut the computer down and went straight to Wal Mart for the lighted bobber replacements. I can't wait to try them out tomorrow after work. :thumbs_up
> 
> JP


I made one up and decided to videotape myself shooting them. The shots are from 30 and 50 yards into my 3D target. I was purposefully shooting it in the guts as you'll be able to tell by looking at my target...that it's shot out!  

Check it out here by right clicking and "saving as" VIDEO CLIP 

JP


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## rcd567

I've made several broadhead targets from old styrofoam coolers. I work at a hospital which gets certain deliveries in the coolers and the hospital just throws them away. These are actually about 30" square and I'll cut up one to make layers for the inside of the other. Works great! I'll bet a hospital near you has some that they routinely throw away.


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## huntaholic

> Originally posted by *1smoothredneck* :
> huntaholic, I have followed these saw threads. Long term, how are the results w/ carbons??


I've cut 2 or 3 dozen carbons (Easton Carbonaeros 400's) with this saw and haven't had a problem with any of them. It's not an Apple but it does the trick for the do-it-yourselfer!! Hope this helps.


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## Muratus

rcd567 said:


> I've made several broadhead targets from old styrofoam coolers. I work at a hospital which gets certain deliveries in the coolers and the hospital just throws them away. These are actually about 30" square and I'll cut up one to make layers for the inside of the other. Works great! I'll bet a hospital near you has some that they routinely throw away.



uuuummmm???? Those certain deliveries wouldn't be blood or transplant orgins would they? 


I'm out
Muratus


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## 87Missouri

I went to basspro today and picked up two of the thill bobber lights and got home to find that they were too big to fit into the Axis nocks.... :sad: , bummer! However, I made two light up nocks for my Super Carbons and shot them...didn't affect arrow flight or impact point whatsoever and was cool to watch.


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## krazykrawler

I made some of these and when my arrow impacts the target they go out. they are staying in the nock but on impact they pull out and turn off
Is there any way to get around this? i'm shooting at a 3d deer. anyone else have this issue?


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## 2ndchance

hey whitefeather....


is there any way you can make a video from the deers POV???

its cool to see the nock flying through the air but i would like to know if the deer could see it?

how about putting your cam behind the target and off to one side? i dont know how much you trust your shot  

thanks

Ty


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## huntaholic

> Originally posted by *krazykrawler* :
> I made some of these and when my arrow impacts the target they go out. they are staying in the nock but on impact they pull out and turn off


You will run into this sometimes. I have. What I did was remove the Nite Brite Lite from the Nock. Look on the side of the Nite Brite Lite for the little indention on the side near the LED end. Take a small Jewelers screwdriver (flat tip) and use this as a punch. Lightly tap the screwdriver to drive the indention down a little more. DON'T PUNCH through the battery!!!! 

When you re-insert the Nite Brite Lite back into the nock stuff that baby way up in the nock itself. You want it to be a *tight* fit. Try not to bend the Nite Brite Lite when re-inserting it in the nock. You will want it straight and in line as much as possible. Then try to shoot it again once it's back together. Most of the time (9 out of 10) this works for me. 

Experiment with it. You'll get it.


Hope this helps.


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## jsager

ttt


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## hilltophunter

*Gotta light up my nocks...........*

I am making the 45 min trek to wally world ..........I love little projects like this ..........thanks :shade:


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## Whitefeather

2ndchance said:


> hey whitefeather....
> 
> 
> is there any way you can make a video from the deers POV???
> 
> its cool to see the nock flying through the air but i would like to know if the deer could see it?
> 
> how about putting your cam behind the target and off to one side? i dont know how much you trust your shot
> 
> thanks
> 
> Ty


The problem wouldn't be trusting my shot, but trusting my target to stop the arrow! Take a look at that target.  I could probably rig it up somehow to where the cam wouldn't be in danger. I've got the extended warranty for it, but don't think it would be honored with a carbon shaft protruding out of it.  

I'll see what I can do...

JP


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## 2ndchance

just have someone stand there and tell them to move the cam before your arrow hits it


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## Whitefeather

2ndchance said:


> just have someone stand there and tell them to move the cam before your arrow hits it


That's a great idea...When are you coming up?  

JP


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## huntaholic

JP,

Let me know when you're doing this!! I've got to see this!!!!


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## Misfire

How about a video that involves a homemade tracer nock and balancing an apple on "someone's" head? 



I nonimnate Huntaholic! 


.


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## 2ndchance

thats quite a drive for me just so i van move your cam because of your bad shot, just get your lil bro or your nieghbor to do it, i am sure they wont mind, you may even wanna toss in five bucks  :wink:


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## huntaholic

> Originally posted By *Misfire*:
> How about a video that involves a homemade tracer nock and balancing an apple on "someone's" head?
> 
> I nonimnate Huntaholic!



Sure thing buddy. . . You put the apple on your head and I'll do the shooting!!! Don't mind the shakey hands, I get that way after a gallon of coffee in the mornings!!!!


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## Live4Rut

I set my digital camera on top of my target before and shot. 

You could see the arrow coming but from that point of view , you can really tell why they can't always get out of the way. That thing's moving FAST. I deleted the video, but when i get my new arrows, i trust myself to do it again


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## intheflats

Could someone post a pic of a finished nock before they insert it into the arrow shaft. Thanks


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## Misfire

intheflats said:


> Could someone post a pic of a finished nock before they insert it into the arrow shaft. Thanks



Page #1 of this thread

Post#s 19, 35, 36 & 37


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## intheflats

I was talking about the ones where you use a pin and another nock so you don't have to turn it on before you shoot. (on/off twist) Thanks


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## Stormstaff

up


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## breakaleg

This has nothing to do with the lighted nocks but someone posted about making your own wind checker a while ago. Well I triedit and it works very well. Take a little plastic nasal spray bottle and simply fill it with white corn starch. Works like a charm.


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## Stormstaff

to the top

Any way a mod could sticky this?


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## huntaholic

TTT


Yeah, I vote for a Sticky!!!!


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## Jerry/NJ

2ndchance said:


> hey whitefeather....
> 
> 
> is there any way you can make a video from the deers POV???
> 
> its cool to see the nock flying through the air but i would like to know if the deer could see it?
> 
> how about putting your cam behind the target and off to one side? i dont know how much you trust your shot
> 
> thanks
> 
> Ty


I did this once and posted the video here. I am not sure if I still have it or not. I positioned my video camera under the chin of my McKenzie deer target and shot from 30 yards.........definitely a deer's POV! Really cool !
Jon, if you cant get to it , let me know and I might do it again. :thumbs_up


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## Rembrandt1

3'X4' Home made permanent tree stands...swivel seats, all steel ladders.


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## ind_buck_fever

food plot secret


instead of the crazy prices of commercial plot seed.

buy a small sack of biologic or what ever is prefered.

take the label into your local co-op and the same blend can be mixed there for a heck of alot less!!!!! theyll be able to mix a better blend for your soil/terrain also.

matt


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## Live4Rut

Rembrandt1 said:


> 3'X4' Home made permanent tree stands...swivel seats, all steel ladders.



Heck, you could pitch a tent on that sucker!!! Plenty of shooting room.


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## ind_buck_fever

lighted nocks with no weight gain!!!!

i was at a fishing show wear these fellas were selling this clear coat/glow paint for fishing lures.
im telling you what its just as bright as a l.e.d.
and the glow lasts a real long time.

i put 2 coats on clear colored nocks and they really light up.they light
up real good on any nock but more on the clear.i have also used it for cresting also.

there is a web site on the bottle and a phone number.

www.glowmates.com
773-763-8737

both the green/yellow and the blue paints work great.

matt


----------



## ultramax

Misfire said:


> I've made a few wingbone yelpers..
> 
> .


Wow that is sooo cool! :thumbs_up


----------



## Midlife Crisis

Whitefeather said:


> The problem wouldn't be trusting my shot, but trusting my target to stop the arrow! Take a look at that target.  I could probably rig it up somehow to where the cam wouldn't be in danger. I've got the extended warranty for it, but don't think it would be honored with a carbon shaft protruding out of it.
> 
> I'll see what I can do...
> 
> JP


If a protruding carbon arrow would be a problem, I suggest using aluminum.  

Thanks for the video! :thumbs_up


----------



## white00crow

I make my own Quivers and some arm guards, from leather, its easy to do and if you can find a tack shop you can get the leather for free.
Then all you have to do is lay out a pattern cut it with a stanley knife(2 pieces) lay them toghter and drill holes thru both and lace them up, the 2 I made cost me $6.00 a piece. and it was fun to do.

I'll try to post a pic but have had problems with that on this site


----------



## Byron

intheflats said:


> Could someone post a pic of a finished nock before they insert it into the arrow shaft. Thanks


Here's a pic of one I just made.
Byron


----------



## Byron

And one of it turned [ON].


----------



## glassjeg6

*Homemade Corn Feeder and Stand*

Two 55 gallon barrels welded together and then built stand


----------



## glassjeg6

Homemade protein feeder


----------



## Live4Rut

How do you get to the top to put the feed in???


----------



## glassjeg6

Buckmaster7117 said:


> How do you get to the top to put the feed in???


If you look at the pic closely at the top of the ladder there is a flat platform to stand on.From there you can reach the top to put in feed.


----------



## Live4Rut

I see,,,. The second pic looked like it would be a pretty far stretch to reach the top of the second barrel.


----------



## Redman2002

This is one of the coolest threads I have read. Thanks for sharing some awsome ideas. 

I need to start saving some of the coolers from the hospital I work at. 

Redman2002


----------



## huntaholic

*Hey Bryon. . . .*

Byron, 

Did you run a pin through the LED like that other website was talking about? If so what part of the LED is he talking about, the Collar or the physical LED part?

Those nocks look awesome! Can't wait to build one like that and see how it works out!!

Congrats,

Hunt.


----------



## glassjeg6

Buckmaster7117 said:


> I see,,,. The second pic looked like it would be a pretty far stretch to reach the top of the second barrel.


Standing on the platform it is real easy to put feed in.It is not as far as pic makes it look or you could just make the part the barrel sits in taller very easily.


----------



## Antihunter

*Homemade Lumenock*

New Idea, I took a small piece of surgical tubing and placed around the shaft of the "Thill" light and inserted in to the shaft of my arrow. The tubing was cut a little over an 1/8 of an inch. Then pushed into the arrow shaft with nock all the way,remove nock and gently pull out on LED untill it goes out,reinsert nock and shoot.It took a few times to get it but once I did 10 shots in a row with no problems. Hope this helps. Brent W


----------



## Antihunter

Sorry not to mean "new idea" ,meant a new idea to try instead of the drilling the nock. Sorry ,trying to type faster then I can think.


----------



## Byron

huntaholic said:


> Did you run a pin through the LED like that other website was talking about? If so what part of the LED is he talking about, the Collar or the physical LED part?


I heated the pin with a propane torch and stuck it through the side of the nock into the red plastic collar holding the LED. I found that it works better to try to stick the pin along the side of the collar, instead of directly into it. Basically, instead of going in perpendicular, I angled it in at about 30 degrees to the side. Here's a pic of approximately where the pin goes.

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## Bow_man

I built a deer hauler out of a folding cot that I think was used for stomach crunches. I took some old wheelchair wheels and put bicycle tires on them(a tight fit).
I made a rack for my bicycle out of old folding lawn chairs, so I can carry my climbing stand with all of my gear. I put a milk crate on the front of the bike for my boots.
I made a way to hook the cart to the back of the rack for hauling deer down the gravel levee to the parking area where I hunt. A 2 1/2 mile ride, it is quite an experience. Last year I hauled out 2 bucks and a doe.


----------



## white00crow

Here is 1 quiver


----------



## huntaholic

*Bump.*

Anyone Else got any home made projects they can share? C'mon I know the idea's are out there!!


----------



## Tim/OH

Byron said:


> I went to Wal-Mart and Bass Pro today - came up with a total of ONE Nite Brite! I'll play around with it this weekend. I did a Google search and found a thread on the Bowsite that added a twist - installing the neck section of another nock inside the shaft to allow the Nite Brite to be turned on automatically upon release. I'll be playing around with it this weekend.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Byron


 This is how me and my friend make ours, they come on everytime, no problem.


----------



## jamaro

extreme vft said:


> This is how me and my friend make ours, they come on everytime, no problem.


Can you guys post some pictures of this???
jason


----------



## Byron

jamaro said:


> Can you guys post some pictures of this???
> jason


There are several pictures throughout this thread. Try pages 1 & 3. What other pics would you like to see?

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## jamaro

Pictures of the setup that allows the nocks to light up on release...
j-


----------



## Byron

Did you see the pics I posted on page 3 of this thread? Did you read the directions in the link that was also posted there? Let me know if you still have questions.

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## Stormstaff

This really needs a sticky


----------



## HeWhoHunts

*Four colors at Cabela's for Nite-Brites*

Naturally, my local Wally World dont have do-whop.

Cabela's has four colors advertied

clear, red, yellow, green......2.99 and shipping which is probably about what it cost me in GAS to go to WW anyway.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...t=BuyRate.Net and netSOHO.net&cm_ite=DDI Link

A HUGE thanks to our friend who posted this info above.

Give's me something to tinker with and makes me look SOMEWHAT ingenius locally.......  

HWH


----------



## huntaholic

*Sticky!!!*

Sticky. . .
Sticky. . .
I vote Sticky!!!!


----------



## dsf81

*New Homemade Item*

My uncle makes deer traps that are used by the conservation and people with special permits. These traps are used in areas like many cities where deer are unwanted. They seem to work really well. The conservation just puts corn inside them and the traps are designed with a trap door that shuts. The trap also folds down on the deer so that they can be transported without a struggle. They are pretty neat, but too bad you must have a permit to use them. I know many big bucks I would like to trap and bring to my hunting areas :shade: 

Derek


----------



## XX75

My digital camera is on the fritz, but this really doesn't require a pic. I used masking tape and some glow in the dark paint to "upgrade" the orange sight ring on my Copper John Dead Nuts sight. You could easily add a glowing sight ring to other sights this way. Avoid the cheap paint though, it hardly glows. The www.glowmates.com paint mentioned upthread looks excellent. I imagine you could also put a 3 or 4 small dots of paint on the outside edge of your peep sight if you've had problems finding it in low light.

peteward.com has some excellent plans for do-it yourselfers from homemade spine testers and arrow cresters, to treestands, bow presses, etc. Good stuff!


----------



## huntaholic

*speaking of glow in the dark!!!*

Speaking of glow in the dark, I had to replace the yardage marking tape on my single pin sight recently. I tried everywhere to find some glow in the dark tape to replace the original with. Something that I could mark on with a permanent marker and would hold up in weather, rain/cold or what ever. 
I asked my local pro shop and all they used was a cheap white tape. I was really wanting some glow in the dark tape though, for those low light conditions.

I was walking through Bass Pro shops with Misfire and one of our co-workers when we were looking in the fishing department. We came across some of those see through stickers that you cut and put on your lures. Well low and behold, right beside the ones that look like red scales there they were. . .GLOW IN THE DARK STICKERS!!!!!!! They come in a 3 pack that is about 2" wide by 5" long or so. If I remember right they were cheap too!!! I'll try to find a link for them. 

They are great, designed to be put on lures so they won't come off in wet conditions and they are easily marked on with a permanent pen. Best thing is that if you make a mistake on marking your yardage, all you have to do is get a little rubbing alcohol and it comes right off. You can start over again with a clean slate!!!

Hunt.


----------



## Ranger690

Glow tape.

http://www.basspro.com/servlet/cata...rClassCode=10&hvarSubCode=7&hvarTarget=browse

Dayton


----------



## Luckybuck1

*cool thread*

Ttt


----------



## Stormstaff

^^^^^


----------



## huntaholic

that's the stuff Ranger!!! Thanks for the post!!!!


----------



## Babe's Curse

*Nock Inside Diameter*

I went out and got a battery to make a homemade "light on launch" nock. I cut my stopper nock, but the battery only fits maybe 1/3 of the way in. By this I mean 1/3 of the way to the collar stop, not the tip of the nock. I have this problem with both sides of the attachment. I am using the clear style bohning nocks that work with my goldtips and Beman ICS. Do you guys drill or ream them out to get them to fit so well or use a different nock. I really like the way Byron's set up came out.


----------



## Byron

Babe's Curse said:


> I went out and got a battery to make a homemade "light on launch" nock. I cut my stopper nock, but the battery only fits maybe 1/3 of the way in. By this I mean 1/3 of the way to the collar stop, not the tip of the nock. I have this problem with both sides of the attachment. I am using the clear style bohning nocks that work with my goldtips and Beman ICS. Do you guys drill or ream them out to get them to fit so well or use a different nock. I really like the way Byron's set up came out.


You may have to drill out the neck section of the nocks to get them to work properly. Just be careful not to go much past the collar stop area, if at all. Also be sure the LED still fits fairly closely in there.

I am using Carbon Express nocks. Each one has a slightly different internal taper, so I have to custom fit every one. The only drilling I've done, however, is a small hole like "huntaholic" showed on Page 1 for the light to shine through. Here are my steps after drilling this hole:

I push the LED end in as far as possible, then insert the pin. I then push the second nock onto the tail end of the battery as far as I can and mark where the end of the battery comes to. After removing the battery from the second nock, this is the point at which I make my cut.

I then take my cut nock section and insert the battery into the cut end. This leaves the taper of the nock section down for easier insertion into the arrow later. I push the cut section all the way up to the first nock, then put a couple drops of superglue on the lower portion of the battery. Then, I slide the cut nock section down over the superglue to the end of the battery, as shown in the posted pictures.

That's it! Let the glue set for a couple minutes and push it into the arrow shaft. One thing to note: *DO NOT ATTEMPT TO ROTATE THE NOCK AFTER INSERTION!* This will ruin the battery.

Another trick I've learned is this: if the nock is difficult to pull back out enough to turn the light off after a shot, I lightly pinch a pair of diagonal cutters at the seam between the shaft and nock. This easily pushes the nock out enough to turn the light off.

Let me know if you have more questions. I'm happy to help.

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## Byron

Has everyone given up on this thread? What happened to, "Sticky! Sticky! Sticky!"???

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## Stormstaff

I say someone needs to consolidate it and then bribe a mod to sticky it :wink:


----------



## huntaholic

*Bump!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!*

Sticky. . . C'mon. . . put a sticky on this bad boy!!!!

We need some more posts here, where are the other idea's?!!!! Anyone know how to make a cheaper version of the Plotsaver????? Home made bows??? There's gotta be something else!!!! Season's just 'round the corner. 

Post up!!!!


----------



## Stormstaff

up up and away

:teeth:


----------



## Denfore

*it must be my turn too.............bump!*

up to the top


sticky?


----------



## billert

Got square tubing but can't weld (I want a PM if anyone ends up making these!!):






























Get used square tubing from your scrape yard old bbq's work well! :shade:


----------



## huntaholic

Nice Stands Billert!!!! I may try to weld some up when I get some tubing.

Thanks for the post.


----------



## SgtBoneCrusher

nice stand, easy to follow directions.........


----------



## arctic hunter

nice stands billert.

i have made a couple similar to those, though i welded mine. i used 1'' square tubing.


----------



## billert

Thanks guys, yeah the next bunch will be welded since I have a buddy who can help me. Nothing wrong with bolts though, it's just may take longer as you need to drill all your pilot holes and of course the bolts get a little expensive. Wound up spending about $15 in bolts/stand but they work great and are less expensive then the store bought variety.


----------



## hunterhowdy

ttt


----------



## huntaholic

*Hey MODS!!!!*

How 'bout a sticky?!!!!!! :wink:


----------



## hunterhowdy

ttt


----------



## Cmarti

I just posted this on another thread, but thought it could relate to this one. 
Crested 2 dozen arrows for $3.50 can of spray paint.

Spray paint crests 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I did it on my own this year, with flourescent green paint paint, I will try to get a picture tonight. The only challenge was getting the paint to stick to carbon. I taped the arrow off and rughed the surface with steel wool. It took 3 light coats to cover well. It has held up well shooting this summer through a WB. No problem with fletching sticking (so far) and the second dozen I used TurboNocks.
__________________


----------



## smitteken

STICKY!! :thumbs_up STICKY!! :thumbs_up STICKY!! :thumbs_up


----------



## Stormstaff

up


----------



## huntaholic

*Hey Mods. . . . .*

Where's the sticky???? We've got more post than some of the other Sticky's,


C'mon put one up there fer us!!!!! :thumbs_up


----------



## Cmarti

*Spray Paint Wraps*

Pictures of what I mentioned in an earlier post.


----------



## MNmike

*home made stuff*

I make my own "STS" stops.

I bought a few Cobra cable guards off e-bay. They look EXACTLY like ones used by STS.

Buy a few SIMS for recurves.

Obtain some solid round AL stock.

Cut, drill, tap, paint and stick. :wink: 

Look and function great. And mine are 3 color camo. :thumbs_up


----------



## Tapfoot

*Rear Site, Arrow holder*

Rear site works like the Hind Site without blocking so much, I don't plan on using it to hunt, it was a site from my kids toy bow,(he was upgraded.) It helped to develope my anchor point very well. 
The Arrow holder was a broken quiver, just screw it to a tree.


----------



## Cmarti

*Spray Paint Crests*

One more try with the pictures of my humble work.


----------



## Walkman

Nothing real great here, but when I first started shooting and didn't have the money for a target, I grabbed a bunch of old 2x3 ceiling tiles from the basement at work and used 'em for a broadhead target. A little duct tape to hold them together.

I also made a finger sling out of a ID card lanyard.

The coolest thing I "made", though was a range in the basement of a former employer (with their permission). I could go down there at lunch time everyday and shoot for an hour.


----------



## razorback5htr

*home made scent mask*

I use walnuts,,,,,pick em up off the ground when there green,, throw em in the truck bed or a plastic bag,,, take em hunting with you and drop them on the ground when you get out of the vehicle, mash them with your feet , they will cover any scent on bottom of your boots that could get picked up by a curious deer on your walk in to the stand,,,,,, i have also used them as a scent mask in a liquid form,,, just get some rubber gloves and cut them into slices,, throw into water and let set for a day or so, then strain the chunks out of the water with a cheese cloth, i pour the liquid into an old spray bottle of scent killer, and i spray it on my boots or pant legs, Its not much effort and the price is right,


----------



## Stormstaff

sticky?


----------



## Reb

I have the largest Block target they make and lugging that thing out of the shed to shoot was a pain in the butt. I took the axles from an old red ryder waggon, three 4'x2"x12" treated boards and a ratchet strap and made myself a cart for it. Works pretty good, you just have to make sure to put a couple of bolts in the bracket that attaches the axle to the swivel plate or it'll try to turn over every time you want to turn the target. Plus building it out of wood helps for those slip ups, like forgetting what yardage you have it set at and shooting just a tad too low.


----------



## Renegademan

i made and arrow tote with a bow holder
i took a about 20 inch long pvc pipe drilled a hole in the bottom
then took some 1/4 inch plywood drilled a hole through it took a bolt and put the bolt through the plywood and pvc pipe bolt it down
then take a thing i found laying around the shop it has a handle and two hooks on it and bolt it down u can hook your bow on it but make sure it is on level ground

it helps with not throwing ur arrows down on the ground


----------



## Renegademan

sry can't let this post go it is great 
hey mods how many pages do we need to have to get a sticky this is an absoulety great post :smile: :smile: :shade:


----------



## huntaholic

I guess we'll have to keep bumping it up ourselves until the MODS have free time to put a sticky on it.



*BUMP!!!!!*


----------



## Luckybuck1

*I agree*

Ttt


----------



## hunterhowdy

ttt


----------



## Live4Rut

Since the ideas are slowing down a good pit, I really don't think its gonna get a sticky.


----------



## redneckwannabe

*Stand for my 3D deer....*

I never liked having to drive stakes into the ground for my 3D targets. And I got tired of not being able to easily move them around for a change of pace. Also, with two young children, I didn't want to leave two pieces of re-bar driven into the ground in the open where they might fall onto them. So I came up with the following system. Plenty sturdy, and easily moved around. Works for me.....


----------



## canadianarcher

ttt


----------



## huntaholic

Hey *******,

What did you use for the pegs? Are those really long bolts or pieces of rebar??

Hunt


----------



## shooter22

I'm going to try the Home made lumi-nock myself. 


Here is an idea I came up with in 1996. I did not think to patent it, and just last year I seen the product at Cabelas. But It does not bother me. 

Scent distribution without stomping around



I have used this method the past few years to disperse scent. 

Being in a wheelchair and not being able to easily put my deer scents out, I developed a pretty good method to spreading scent out and never leave the stand.

I take either .50 or .58 cal lead balls and cut a strip of cotton cloth. I then wrap the cotton cloth around the ball with a rubberband. I put them in a baggie and put the desired scent in the bag. When I am ready to spread the scent, I get my wrist-rocket sling-shot and a ball soaked in scent and give it a fling to the desired distance and direction. 

The nice thing about this method is that you can get the scent in any direction regardless of the wind. 

If the cloth has a long enough tail, you can get it to stick in tree branches.

If you are enviromentally concerned, you can use rocks instead of the lead balls.

Only word of warning, when shooting into the wind, beware of mist from the soaked balls floating back into face.


----------



## WiseGuy

6" PVC Feeder


----------



## canadianarcher

WiseGuy said:


> 6" PVC Feeder


I'm making one of these. How simple can you get and I bet it works like a charm.

Awesome!!


----------



## ashx2

canadianarcher said:


> I'm making one of these. How simple can you get and I bet it works like a charm.
> 
> I made a few of these a couple of years ago, the first go 'round , I used a hard rubber bottom. After a few rain storms, I checked each feeder to find molded nasty corn. To fix this problem, I installed french drain covers w/ large slots. I also cut a small section of centimeter squared wire mesh to keep the kernals of corn from slipping through to the ground. This still alows rainwater/moisture to escape while keeping the corn fairly fresh and in place. If you use this type of free choice feeder for supplemental feeding, you can use a smaller diameter wire mesh material if problems occur with the smaller feed pellets. To cover the top of the pipe, just use the fitted cover for whatever diameter pipe you choose. It will be threaded, but just put a strip of adhesive weather stripping on the interior ring of the cover/cap and it will fit snug enough to keep it from coming loose/off. :wink: Affordable, effective, and not difficult to make.......what more could you want??? (Other than someone to do it all for you?)


----------



## huntaholic

I was just going to ask y'all were keeping the corn from mildewing/molding.

Great post guys. 


Keep it up.


----------



## YnoX

WiseGuy said:


> 6" PVC Feeder


Nice feeder.

I made two like that from big metal duct pipes, painted in camo pattern, and placed them around my bear bait station.
One was (and still is) for dry dog food soaked in old grease it works like a charm.
The other one was for old pastry pieces - BIG MISTAKE.
It lasted only one night.
Despite all my reinforcements, the bear ripped it apart at the seam and licked it clean inside out


----------



## 87Missouri

sticky? Back to the top....


----------



## Dodgedude

to the top y'all

I have made an arrow saw that is posted elsewhere on AT. I have also made a stand for my bag target from 3/4" EMT conduit, and a paper tuner.

The treestand by Billert are way cool. May have to take one one of those.


----------



## WiseGuy

I made the feeders from 6" PVC 
1 - 6" tube of the length of your choice
1 - removable cap (female) for the top
1 - angled tee
1 - bottom (male) plug

Just put it together as you see. The bottom plug has holes drilled through out for drainage. Cemented it all with PVC cement and painted. This is a quick easy project. 
I set it up a little off the ground also so it drains. I prop it on a small rock and strap it with bungees and done. I've sat and watched deer feed out of these from about ten yards. I thought they'd be intimidated, but they stick there face right in and eat like a dog at a dog bowl. They figures these out and get on them in short order I was suprised. 
By the way I couldn't find this larger stuff at HD so I had to go to a plumbing supply place. Have fun!
Here's a shot at the bottom.


----------



## intheflats

*Build your own hydraulic Bowpress*

Check out this link it has a lot of good homebrew projects on it. Hope you enjoy it.
http://www.deerslayer.freewebspace.com/custom2.html


----------



## Ringy

Here are a couple of ladder stands I just made. One for a buddy in SD and the big one with the railing for my wife. She is a bit afraid of hieghts and will be 8 months pregnant durring our rifle season, so I made her a very safe, secure stand. I prefer lock-on stands myself and I've made over a dozen of different designs. I'd post a pic of them but they are all out in the woods and I won't be going near them till season starts in a month and a half! The steel on these ladders is all 1" square tube and I bent it with a tube bender designed for square tube. Don't try to bend any kind of tube or pipe without the proper bender, it won't work and is unsafe! The bike tires are removeable and are just for easy, one man transport. I've been making these ladder stands with tires for a while and I expect to see them for sale like this in catalogs every year, but not yet, mabye it is my million dollar idea!


----------



## Martial Archer

Here is a photo of one of my homemade ladder stands. They are real comfortable!


----------



## Martial Archer

Another full length photo










These stands are welded out of 3/4" & 1/2" EMT conduit & have seat belt webbing for the seat. Sorry I dont have plans, but if you are interested in how to, PM me.

The PVC feeder is awesome by the way. I'll be making a few of those bad boys tomorrow! :wink:


----------



## mossyoak_bwhntr

*Trail Markers*

I take clothespins and put reflective tape on them, and also tie a short piece of flagging on them. The tape reflects good with flashlights, and the flagging also helps to find your stand. And they're easy to take out with you when you're done.


----------



## Waukon1

I paddelock some of my treestands. I have found that I can get paddlelocks and cables cheaper in the bike section than you can in the hunting section of a store.


I also take those silica (don't know if the spelling is correct) packets that are found in packaged items to take moisture out, and I throw them in my gun cases instead of just throwing them away


----------



## Jerry/NJ

Nice job guys ! :thumbs_up 

Here is a link with tons of great information: http://www.peteward.com/


----------



## white00crow

Just shot my "luminanock" me and the boys had a blast shooting them, Thanks for the info, But mabey for libality reasons we should call them "NITE BRITE NOCKS" LOL


----------



## Byron

white00crow said:


> Just shot my "luminanock" me and the boys had a blast shooting them, Thanks for the info, But mabey for libality reasons we should call them "NITE BRITE NOCKS" LOL


Did you make the ON-OFF style? How did it go?

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## Ringy

I've had lost of folks PM me asking how I bent the sqare tube on my ladder stands. Check out this site http://www.shopoutfitters.com/ I have the 2020 compact bender and like it a lot.

The only way I know of to bend sqare tubing well is with a tubing bender and a die for square tube. Please, don't try just heating it and bending it, it will not be safe!

This is a great thread; the true meaning of archers helping archers. Keep it on top!


----------



## Misfire

I use tampons. 

They make great scent bombs. They will absorb as much scent as you want to put in them and have a convient string to tie them up or throw them with. 

Best of all, you can buy a box of 50 for less than 10 of the commercial scent bombs.


Oh yea,



BUMP


----------



## huntaholic

> Originally posted by *Misfire:*
> I use tampons.


Man, wish you could have been here when Jen and I were reading this. We both started laughing our Arse's off at this!!!

It's a good idea and I guess I can say I use Tampons, for the same reason of course, too!!!!


----------



## huntswnm

*Question about Homemade Scent Killer*

I have made up a few batches of the scent killer recipe that was posted earlier on the page. Sure seems like it will work. I was wondering if anyone, including the maker, ever added a scent to it, i.e. pine, earth, etc. Wouldn't know how to do it, thats why I'm asking. Maybe add Pine needles to liquid then strain after several days??
Jeff


----------



## huntaholic

*Sticky!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!*

:d


----------



## white00crow

Byron said:


> Did you make the ON-OFF style? How did it go?
> 
> Best Regards,
> Byron



No I just drilled the nocks and inserted.They worked well 1 I drilled to much and after 3 shoots it slid down the arrow but I am still in the work for prefection mode and its alot of fun doing it, 1 question what kind of saw do you ues on the ON-OFF style, my saw buchered the end badly


----------



## white00crow

Has anyone made thier own BOW SLING seams easybut dont know.

Also I am working on making my own arrow leval using a large alu. shaft and a line leval let you know how it works


----------



## Misfire

Jerry/NJ said:


> Nice job guys ! :thumbs_up
> 
> Here is a link with tons of great information: http://www.peteward.com/




That is a cool site. Thanks for the link. I spent about an hour surfing the links and now I have to get me a stick of Hickory and a drawknife!! (I'll tell my wife my new project is your fault.  )


.


----------



## Byron

white00crow said:


> 1 question what kind of saw do you ues on the ON-OFF style, my saw buchered the end badly


I used an anvil-style cutting pliers. I think they're actually pruning tools. They use a razor blade to cut. If I didn't have them, I'd use a utility knife.

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## canadianarcher

seeing as this was on page 6, I thought it needed to go TTT.


----------



## Stormstaff

up, up and away


----------



## Qiro

Well, they are home made , and i use them in the end of a successful hunt. :tongue:


----------



## Misfire

Jerry/NJ said:


> *Ingredients for Scent Killer:
> 
> 16 oz. (2 cups) Peroxide
> 
> 16 oz. (2 cups) Distilled Water
> 
> ¼ cup baking soda
> 
> 1 oz. On non-scented shampoo
> 
> (Or adjust amounts to whatever size you make accordingly)
> 
> Let sit for several days (1 gallon milk jug works good with lid loose) *



Jerry,

What make, model, year, and vintage is the shampoo that you use? I hate to experiment if you have a specific brand that works. 

Thanks!

.


----------



## dillershortbow

Those of you that need camo my wife sews all my camo if you shop around you can find good camo fabric. She makes me a hole suit pants shirt jacket bela clava all for about 50 bucks or less.


----------



## huntaholic

> Originally posted by *Misfire:*
> What make, model, year, and vintage is the shampoo that you use?


uhmmmmmmm, good question. 

I would recommend the 2003 vintage version of the Alberto Vo5 Shampoo, formulated with Vitamins E,H,B3,C and B5 to replenish nutrients of course, with the conditioner already in it, out of lot #45986VK2357 :wink: 

Man I couldn't resist!!!!!!!!!

I was laughing my Arse off so hard typing this I almost fell out of my chair!!!!!


----------



## torque

huntswnm said:


> I have made up a few batches of the scent killer recipe that was posted earlier on the page. Sure seems like it will work. I was wondering if anyone, including the maker, ever added a scent to it, i.e. pine, earth, etc. Wouldn't know how to do it, thats why I'm asking. Maybe add Pine needles to liquid then strain after several days??
> Jeff


We've put earthscent in some of ours and it works just like the store bought stuff.


----------



## Zen Archery

*Ghetto Ridge Sight that Works!!!*

Part I: 20-70 Yds in 5 Yd Increments
When I first got into compound bows I put my pins in 5 yd increments 20-40 yds. I wanted to be able to shoot out to 70 in 5 yd increments so:

1. I got a found a thin nail that could slide into this mysterious slot on the inside ring of the sight. I slid the nail on there.

2. Went to Wal-mart and purchased thin metal loops with a long shaft. Went home and cut the metal shafts down to about 1/4". Slid 4 of these metal shafts onto the nail.

3. Went to the range and double checked to make sure my pins were still accurate from 20-40. After I was positive my sight was accurate I slid the metal shaft up the nail to the 40 yd marker and super glued it carefully.

4. Stepped out to 50 yds. Adjusted the trophy ridge pin until it was hitting accurately. After I was positive my sight was accurate I slid the metal shaft up the nail to the 50 yd marker and super glued it carefully. I repeated this process all the way to 70 yds.

I could also place the bottom pin inbetween the pins to shoot at the 45-55-65 yd increments. 

Part II The Light
I originally purchasd the Trophy Ridge light and did not like the brightnes it was giving me. 

1. I Drilled a hole on the side of the guard.
2. Screwed the light to where it was going up toward the light directly. 

I was satisfied! This sight has helped me take down hogs on full moon nights.


----------



## Misfire

Here is a homemade suit that is about 10-12 years old. It is made out of burlap and a small amount of BDU material. (Elbows and Knees) It was made for turkey hunting with a shotgun, but if I tape the arm up (not pretty but works) I can bowhunt with it. 


.


----------



## NJDiverDan

*another homemade deer feeder*

Here is another feeder









Sometimes a little peanut butter on the end of the stick works to help the deer learn what it is for. Just hang it so the stick is about nose level with a deer.

-dan


----------



## PearsonSHTR

Ttt


----------



## NJDiverDan

ttt


----------



## Shooter2222

has anyone ever seen the Shed catchers built using fencing wire? A harmless way to catch sheds during winter ... It's been a while since I saw the build design, but it made sense logically ...


----------



## doogy_7

*Bow/Quiver hanger built into one*

Took my ez-hanger and welded a small angle bracket it to it. Then took the reciever part of my quiver and bolted it to the bracket. I take my ez-hanger to every tree I am in so, I just screw the hanger in, take my quiver off, latch into the hanger. Stays up against the tree, out of the way, but within reach if needed.

If anyone needs pictures Ill get some.


----------



## doogy_7

*climbing sticks*

I've also built my own climbing sticks. Actually I have cad drawings of them. 4' sections so you can make a 12', 16', or a 20'

These climbing sticks will get you up through the trees with alot of branches on them. I use round pipe for the joints. This enables you to rotate each piece either left or right before you strap it down. Just as strong, and usually the rotating will get you past those branches.

Also if you ever build your own climbing stick make sure you drill holes in the bottom of the bottom section. Water has to have somewhere to escape, or it will freeze and your square tubing will end up being round.


----------



## Straightline

doogy_7 said:


> I've also built my own climbing sticks. Actually I have cad drawings of them. 4' sections so you can make a 12', 16', or a 20'
> 
> These climbing sticks will get you up through the trees with alot of branches on them. I use round pipe for the joints. This enables you to rotate each piece either left or right before you strap it down. Just as strong, and usually the rotating will get you past those branches.
> 
> Also if you ever build your own climbing stick make sure you drill holes in the bottom of the bottom section. Water has to have somewhere to escape, or it will freeze and your square tubing will end up being round.


What CAD format? I'm a big fan of climbing sticks and my brother in law is a metal fabricator I'm sure I talk him into helping a brother out!   :smile:


----------



## Renegademan

NJDiverDan said:


> Here is another feeder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes a little peanut butter on the end of the stick works to help the deer learn what it is for. Just hang it so the stick is about nose level with a deer.
> 
> -dan


right on dude but i got two for my birthday from wal mart for 15 bucks
peanut butter works good too


----------



## huntaholic

Ttt.


----------



## Stormstaff

^^^^^^^^^


----------



## Iabow

Heres an idea for a cheap backstop or in a pinch a target. Get one of those bundles of cardboard that stores compact and bundle up and throw out back behind their stores. They are free and diffently stop arrows.


----------



## Papick

My home made/custom made BT release to fit my hand.
Click on the link below
http://www.hunt101.com/showgallery.php?ppuser=19478&cat=500


----------



## Papick

And my custom made fletching jig with offset capability.
http://www.hunt101.com/showphoto.php?photo=311195


----------



## Shooter2222

87Missouri said:


> I went to basspro today and picked up two of the thill bobber lights and got home to find that they were too big to fit into the Axis nocks.... :sad: , bummer! However, I made two light up nocks for my Super Carbons and shot them...didn't affect arrow flight or impact point whatsoever and was cool to watch.


OK ... it takes some finangling, but I was able to make the homemade lite brite nocks for my Axis nocks. basically, I cut a nock and used it as a stopper in the arrow shaft where the bottom of the battery of the lite brite rests. Then I glues JUST THE plastic around the bulb into the very bottom of the X nock. It fits quite snug, but that's a good thing. When you put the nock in the shaft the bottom rests and only turns on when the nock is fully inserted. The key is the measurement of your stopper, which takes a great deal of time to make sure it's perfect. Anyway, it can be done!


----------



## doogy_7

Straightline said:


> What CAD format? I'm a big fan of climbing sticks and my brother in law is a metal fabricator I'm sure I talk him into helping a brother out!   :smile:


I can make it in cad 12, 13, 14 or 2000.

Let me see if I can dig up the file. There are alot of people requesting the drawing from me. I'll see what I can do.


----------



## 87Missouri

Good news Shooter! I'm definetly going to give that a try, what kind of glue did you use?


----------



## iammrbill

didn't have the patience to check if anyone has posted it before, so i will now..
homemade cover scent-
mix 1 part vanilla(extract or real) and 1 part water in a spray bottle. that's it. cheap. effective. and won't have you smelling like wild animal waste


----------



## redneckwannabe

*Sorry Huntaholic....*

Sorry...been away on vacation.....I just used rebar - not bolts - for the stand. Just drilled a hole a little smaller than the rebar and hammered it right in. Plenty tight and never moves.


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*



iammrbill said:


> didn't have the patience to check if anyone has posted it before, so i will now..
> homemade cover scent-
> mix 1 part vanilla(extract or real) and 1 part water in a spray bottle. that's it. cheap. effective. and won't have you smelling like wild animal waste


----------
Yep it works great. I used it for years. I used the pure vanilla . Now a causion here ,don't use it in bear country.I saw on TV a couple years back, where this little black bear followed the trail .Right on up the tree .To his stand , and he set there kicking for dear life  

Later
Unk :angel:


----------



## huntaholic

Great responses guys, Keep it up.


----------



## Walkman

There is a bunch of good ideas for homemade camo over here:

Poor Man's Camo


----------



## Meatco1

If anyone has made one, I would like to see some photos of home made draw boards, using a small boat winch.

Thanks,

Richard


----------



## 87Missouri

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


----------



## huntaholic

I just got finished testing the first batch of those automatic home made illuminated nocks. It took some trial and error but finally, I have 7 that are the most awesome things i have made yet!!!! 

I've been experimenting with Super glue and just pinning the LED's in. Let me be the first to tell you that the super glue thing requires a little dexterity to put just enough on the LED so you don't end up gluing the LED in the on position.

Can't wait til season opens up!!!!


----------



## Byron

Here are some more details on making the nocks.

Here's a pic of the materials required: Two nocks, a Nite Brite battery, a pin and some super glue.









Drilling a small hole through the nock for better visibility (optional).









Heating the pin before inserting it through the nock and into the plastic LED housing.









The pin after insertion. It may take a couple tries. Make sure the light can be switched on and off before cutting the pin.








After cutting the pin with small wire cutters, use a small file to file it down smooth with the side of the nock.

Take the second nock and slide it onto the end of the Nite Brite. Mark how far up it goes before getting snug. Take it off and cut it at this length. Turn this small sleeve around and slide it onto the Nite Brite, cut end first. Then, add a single drop of superglue into the gap, like this.








Straighten it a bit, let it sit for a few minutes and you're done!

Remember to align it correctly when inserting it into the arrow. DO NOT try to turn the nock after insertion. It will ruin the Nite Brite.

Let me know if you have questions.

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*

Hey guys do you see these pictures.I don't

Unk :tongue:


----------



## Byron

Not sure what happened...I was seeing them. Here they are, in order.


----------



## scoutlover

I am sure this is common knowledge and not my original idea, but I figured I would throw this out here on this great topic. They used to make a product called Blood Tracker or something like that. It was a spray bottle used to positively identify blood when trailing. I dont remember how much it cost, but you can get hydrogen peroxide for about 25 cents a bottle and pour it into a spray bottle. Makes the blood bubble up like when you put it on a cut. Very helpful on those "less then ideal shots" when you can walk slow and spray a fine mist everywhere.


----------



## rootdoc

doogy_7 said:


> I've also built my own climbing sticks. Actually I have cad drawings of them. 4' sections so you can make a 12', 16', or a 20'
> 
> These climbing sticks will get you up through the trees with alot of branches on them. I use round pipe for the joints. This enables you to rotate each piece either left or right before you strap it down. Just as strong, and usually the rotating will get you past those branches.
> 
> Also if you ever build your own climbing stick make sure you drill holes in the bottom of the bottom section. Water has to have somewhere to escape, or it will freeze and your square tubing will end up being round.


So can you share the cad drawings? Possible pix?


----------



## ashx2

Heating the pin before inserting it through the nock and into the plastic LED housing.
The pin after insertion. It may take a couple tries. Make sure the light can be switched on and off before cutting the pin.

Best Regards,
Byron[/QUOTE]

Byron, what's the purpose of the pin? Also, if you file it smooth with the side of the nock, how does it function?

Thanks,
Greg


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*



Byron said:


> Not sure what happened...I was seeing them. Here they are, in order.


Got it. :thumbs_up 
Thanks Byron 

Unk :tongue:


----------



## Byron

ashx2 said:


> Byron, what's the purpose of the pin? Also, if you file it smooth with the side of the nock, how does it function?
> 
> Thanks,
> Greg


Greg,

The pin locks the nock to the LED collar, which is also the ON-OFF switch. The LED is turned ON/OFF by pushing the collar in or pulling it back out from the silver battery. The white sleeve in my pics locks the battery to the arrow shaft. By shooting the arrow, you push the nock and LED down into the shaft, turning the LED ON. After the shot, you pull the nock w/ LED out slightly to turn the LED back OFF. Let me know if this isn't clear. 

Also, note that I've had to use two pins in some nocks with LED's that require significant effort to switch ON and OFF.

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## Babe's Curse

*Light Nock Advice*

Byron, thanks for all your contributions regarding the light nock. Got a couple questions for ya:

What size drill bit are you using to core out those nocks?

When you insert the heated pin, do you find that side swiping the collar works best, rather than going in perpendicular? 

The two pin idea sounds like a good idea for all nocks, do you agree?

Thanks,
Ryan


----------



## crackshot

*feeder*

I am working on a deer feeder right now. I have been working on it for about 9 months now LOL. I don't really have a use for it until after the season. My idea is a gravity flow feeder using a 55 gallon drum. It's a pretty good idea I think Should have it partially completed and I'll try and post some pics. Does anyone out there have any good feeder mixes. I was also considering putting some lucky buck mineral supplements in there too. Any advice on feed would be appriciated. Also anyone that has experimented with the antler catchers let me know the pro's and con's and some details about that. 
CRACKSHOT


----------



## flyinghammer

Byron,
Are you glueing the white collar into the shaft? I made a couple of these over the weekend and they didn't light upon release, I have to turn on the light for it to work. I think the whole idea is for it to light upon arrow release. I inserted the pin into the insert part of the nock on an angle, I found if you go straight in you may ruin the light. Thanks


----------



## Byron

Babe's Curse said:


> Byron, thanks for all your contributions regarding the light nock. Got a couple questions for ya:
> 
> What size drill bit are you using to core out those nocks?
> 
> When you insert the heated pin, do you find that side swiping the collar works best, rather than going in perpendicular?
> 
> The two pin idea sounds like a good idea for all nocks, do you agree?
> 
> Thanks,
> Ryan


Ryan,

I'll have to double-check, but I believe it is 5/64".

I wrote it in another post, but I DEFINITELY recommend trying to aim for the side of the collar instead of going straight into it. By going perpendicular, you get less engagement and risk ruining the LED. I actually try to go into the nock at an upward angle, as well. The real use for the pin is when turning the LED OFF, so having it angled upward is better for this purpose.

The two pin idea does sound good, it's just a little bit of extra work.

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## Byron

flyinghammer said:


> Byron,
> Are you glueing the white collar into the shaft? I made a couple of these over the weekend and they didn't light upon release, I have to turn on the light for it to work. I think the whole idea is for it to light upon arrow release. I inserted the pin into the insert part of the nock on an angle, I found if you go straight in you may ruin the light. Thanks


I am not gluing the collar into the shaft. The idea is certainly for it to light upon release. Did it fit tightly into the shaft when you pressed it in? If not, I would probably try a wrap of electrical tape or something to tighten the fit. How are you turning the light on before the shot? By simply pressing down on the nock?

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## flyinghammer

Byron, 
Yes it fit tight, maybe too tight. Does your setup light upon release? Are you putting the tapered end of the cut nock towards the light or towards the shaft? I guess I'll have to buy a few more lights, funny but in the end I'll probably be into it for more than the price of a Lumenock.LOL,Thanks again.


----------



## huntaholic

I've been using the 5/64 size drill bit. I've posted it as well back on the first few pages. You can use one size smaller if you prefer, this is just personal preferance. Some people just simply like the fact that the nock glows and others like a little more light and I prefer having as much of that LED shining back at me after release so I can really see it fly!!!

Once you get the hang of building these it will be a WHOLE lot cheaper than the Lumenok product.

As for the insertion of the nock, I put the cut end of the second nock toward my field tips. Make sure the light is on and orientated the way you shoot before pushing them in the shaft. Be sure you are pushing this in straight so you don't bend the battery on the light or twist the LED off. Once you have the nock pushed in the shaft simply pull the nock back out a little and it should go off after about 1/8 of an inch.

Hope this helps,

Hunt.


----------



## Byron

flyinghammer said:


> Byron,
> Yes it fit tight, maybe too tight. Does your setup light upon release? Are you putting the tapered end of the cut nock towards the light or towards the shaft? I guess I'll have to buy a few more lights, funny but in the end I'll probably be into it for more than the price of a Lumenock.LOL,Thanks again.


I found it easier to insert the nock sleeve with the cut end toward the nock. This is the normal direction for insertion of the nock into the shaft, tapered end first. These are way more fun than Lumenocks, and about half the weight.

Sounds to me like you may have just damaged the LED when installing the assembly into the shaft. It happens...If the next one is that tight, I'd try trimming down the engagement lines a bit on the cut nock section.

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## ashx2

Thanks Byron. That helps clear things up.

Greg


----------



## hunterhowdy

*Old lawn chair*

An old lawn chair frame can be used for paper tuning. Cut the old webbing off
the back then tape paper to the back of the frame. Very portable. You can
also use it to set some targets on. Keeps them from tipping over. Light weight
to. :thumbs_up


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*



Meatco1 said:


> If anyone has made one, I would like to see some photos of home made draw boards, using a small boat winch.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Richard


--------
Here you go Richard.

Later
Unk :smile:


----------



## steelydan

keep em comin ... great thread!!!


----------



## ashx2

STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!!
STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!!
STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!!STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!!STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!!STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! STICKY!! :teeth: :mg: :teeth: :mg: :teeth: :mg: :teeth: :wink:


----------



## Babe's Curse

ttt


----------



## ACLakey

If someone could tell me how to post files I have engineered blueprints I created for a climbing stand in CAD and pdf formats I will share.


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*

Hello All

Arrow holder.Lid has never been removed. Kitty liter is still in container and dry..

Unk :angel:


----------



## jasonmich

Whitefeather said:


> Not sure if this is it or not, but it's the one I found.
> 
> LINK
> 
> JP



Can someone please tell me what the heck these directions mean? Does anyone make any sense of them at all? I don't understand them!


----------



## 2ndchance

read this thread, i think everything you need to know is contained in it plus some :wink:

i had to order some thill night lights because i couldnt find any anywhere  bait and tackle shops, walmart, super walmart NONE :thumbs_do 

oh well, they will be here soon enough, i have 6 to install


----------



## canadianarcher

Made my own nocks, works like a charm. I couldn't stop shooting them today


----------



## Jr. bowman MI

lol is that your wall? Im telling your wife JK Good job man, Josh


----------



## Byron

jasonmich said:


> Can someone please tell me what the heck these directions mean? Does anyone make any sense of them at all? I don't understand them!


Those directions were combined with _huntaholic's_ idea of drilling out the nock to create my hybrid directions in this thread. Here's a quick search result of all the posts I've made about the nocks in this thread.
This will make it a bit easier than digging through the entire thread. Especially helpful should be the one I posted with pictures of each step. Read through and let me know if you still have questions.

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## Hoyt_dude

*Lights*

When you get some time, can you post a short video clip of how you made your lighted nocks? That would help as I am not too savy at building stuff. I'm still having problems. Mine won't light up upon releasing the arrow. I have to turn it on manually.

Thanks.
Hoyt_dude


----------



## canadianarcher

Jr. bowman MI said:


> lol is that your wall? Im telling your wife JK Good job man, Josh


Funny you should say that.. It's not my wall but it is a piece of drywall... I took the picture shooting down on the nock as the drywall is on the floor.


----------



## Byron

Hoyt_dude said:


> When you get some time, can you post a short video clip of how you made your lighted nocks? That would help as I am not too savy at building stuff. I'm still having problems. Mine won't light up upon releasing the arrow. I have to turn it on manually.
> 
> Thanks.
> Hoyt_dude


Dude,

Not very easily...How about you post a summary of what you did, or at least pictures of your finished lighted nock assemblies? How many did you make? One of the few drawbacks to this system is that they are a bit fragile sometimes.

The other possibility is that either the cut nock section is too loose in the shaft, or the intact nock at the end of the shaft is too tight and not sliding 
into the shaft. Think it might be one of these?

What arrows and nock system are you using these in?

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## Hoyt_dude

Byron,
Thanks for replying. I don't have pictures of my nock yet but I'll see if I can post some up (I've only made one so far). I am using Carbon Express CX nocks on Carbon Express 200 shafts. When you insert the pin, do you also insert it into the housing of the LED as well? Wouldn't that destroy the LED light? I did not insert my pin into the housing of the LED but rather underneath the LED housing where the gap to turn on/off the light. I think this may be my problem that the pin might be blocking the LED contacts to the battery. Right? The cut nock fits tight inside of the shaft and also fits tight to the battery. 

Any further advise?
Thanks.





Byron said:


> Dude,
> 
> Not very easily...How about you post a summary of what you did, or at least pictures of your finished lighted nock assemblies? How many did you make? One of the few drawbacks to this system is that they are a bit fragile sometimes.
> 
> The other possibility is that either the cut nock section is too loose in the shaft, or the intact nock at the end of the shaft is too tight and not sliding
> into the shaft. Think it might be one of these?
> 
> What arrows and nock system are you using these in?
> 
> Best Regards,
> Byron


----------



## Byron

Hoyt_dude said:


> Byron,
> Thanks for replying. I don't have pictures of my nock yet but I'll see if I can post some up (I've only made one so far). I am using Carbon Express CX nocks on Carbon Express 200 shafts. When you insert the pin, do you also insert it into the housing of the LED as well? Wouldn't that destroy the LED light? I did not insert my pin into the housing of the LED but rather underneath the LED housing where the gap to turn on/off the light. I think this may be my problem that the pin might be blocking the LED contacts to the battery. Right? The cut nock fits tight inside of the shaft and also fits tight to the battery.
> 
> Any further advise?
> Thanks.


Ah, yes. We've isolated the problem!  If you read through all my posts (there are a lot, I know), you'll see my description of how to insert the pin. You are correct, it doesn't go straight into the LED housing, but toward its edge. Putting it in the gap could definitely prevent it from turning on properly. To my eye, at least, this picture shows what I mean about not going in perpendicularly to the nock and LED housing, but at a slight angle to catch just the side of the housing.









Does that help?

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## steelydan

Byron,

Thanks for all your efforts in getting this "lighted Nock" mod to us..... is there any way you can re-summarize your build procedure all in one post. Thanks loads!!!


----------



## Live4Rut

steelydan said:


> Byron,
> 
> Thanks for all your efforts in getting this "lighted Nock" mod to us..... is there any way you can re-summarize your build procedure all in one post. Thanks loads!!!



If you look up a few posts you'll see that he already did that. Click the link in the post and it will take you to what is pretty much just a summary of his work.


----------



## ozhuntsman

here is my set up. i made these things: stabilizer, hip quiver,
2 pce mounting brackets for quiver,
limb shoks (front of pockets),
rear cross hair and mount bracket,
laser mount bracket(on stabilizer),
i used T6061 alloy for the metal stuff and i found this cool orange rubber in the hardware store. i have tried everything for silenc and in dead calm you cannot hear this bow at 5 yards. my hunting buddy says he only hears the arrow as it speeds away, if anything. i have also fitted a small sleeve inside my release so as to quiet the trigger. this works well as i barely hear it now. the bow to shoot has ZERO vibration.




























i can post how to if any1 is interested :thumbs_up


----------



## ozhuntsman

here is my cross-hair .................


----------



## ozhuntsman

Unk Bond said:


> --------
> Here you go Richard.
> 
> Later
> Unk :smile:


i gotta have one of these drawboards


----------



## ozhuntsman

this is a little off topic but i just had to show you guys what happens when i like a piece of wood and then work on it by hand for 6 weeks. takedown recurve is next project. just lookin for the right piece of wood.







body is she-oak and the neck is tassie-oak with ebony fretboard and abalone inlays. i designed and built the whole thing except for the pick-ups and machine heads.


----------



## ozhuntsman

here is some camo specificaly for the western australian desrt.


----------



## huntaholic

great job guys, Keep it coming!


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*



ozhuntsman said:


> i gotta have one of these drawboards



Hello
You can make a bar with the center pull offset-ed.This will allow the bow tobe level when pulled.

I just haven't got around to makeing one.

You can take the same design and use a bow scales and a 2 pulley block and tackle .And just pull to see your bow weight and let off. Just remember the more tracks in the pulleys the easer it is to pull.

Unk :smile:


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*

Hey guys this pic is from my tid bit tread.] Credit to [ walks-with gi ] :thumbs_up 

Unk :angel:


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*

Hey guys finished with cover.Credit to [ walks-with gi

Unk :angel:


----------



## Antihunter

*Cresting*

Instead of paying those outrageous prices for cresting,make your own either visit the local window decal shop and buy the same thing in large sheets for nearly nothing and cut to your desired size. Or you can use a 3M Vinyl tape(it is heavier than regular electrical tape) comes on a roll the size of duct tape. Either one works as good as any store bought cresting. Brent


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*



Antihunter said:


> Instead of paying those outrageous prices for cresting,make your own either visit the local window decal shop and buy the same thing in large sheets for nearly nothing and cut to your desired size. Or you can use a 3M Vinyl tape(it is heavier than regular electrical tape) comes on a roll the size of duct tape. Either one works as good as any store bought cresting. Brent


----

Lets see a pic,of some you have done.And pic of material.

Unk :smile:


----------



## ozhuntsman

Unk Bond said:


> Hello
> You can make a bar with the center pull offset-ed.This will allow the bow tobe level when pulled.
> 
> I just haven't got around to makeing one.
> 
> You can take the same design and use a bow scales and a 2 pulley block and tackle .And just pull to see your bow weight and let off. Just remember the more tracks in the pulleys the easer it is to pull.
> 
> Unk :smile:


thanx m8, i'll remember that when the time comes :teeth:


----------



## Meatco1

Unk:

That's a very clever blind. I don't think I've ever seen another. I doubt if any deer would give it a second thought. 

Great Idea!!

Richard


----------



## ashx2

*Oz's PM*

Hey Oz...you've been PM'd


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*



Meatco1 said:


> Unk:
> 
> That's a very clever blind. I don't think I've ever seen another. I doubt if any deer would give it a second thought.
> 
> Great Idea!!
> 
> Richard


----------------
Hello All
Richard here is another pic .Credit given to [ walks with a gi] this guy has made some fine things.He is as handy as a pocket on a shirt  

Unk :smile: 

Pic. below credit to ]walks with a gi]


----------



## Byron

*Spray lacquer crested arrows*

I bought the spray lacquer and some model paints and did my own "dipping" and cresting this weekend. I did the "dipping" and fades like the guy in the video that was linked here a couple weeks ago. I did the cresting by hand with a 3/0 fine nylon paint brush and my arrow inspector like this one.










It wasn't really easy without a motor, but I got it done. Here's the end result.
Yes, the pink and purple ones are my wife's!  Also, four of these arrows have my homemade lighted nocks in them. Anybody got a homebrew carbon arrow recipe? 

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*



Byron said:


> I bought the spray lacquer and some model paints and did my own "dipping" and cresting this weekend. I did the "dipping" and fades like the guy in the video that was linked here a couple weeks ago. I did the cresting by hand with a 3/0 fine nylon paint brush and my arrow inspector like this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It wasn't really easy without a motor, but I got it done. Here's the end result.
> Yes, the pink and purple ones are my wife's!  Also, four of these arrows have my homemade lighted nocks in them. Anybody got a homebrew carbon arrow recipe?
> 
> Best Regards,
> Byron


------------
Hey Byron
Job well done :thumbs_up They are very impressive.

Unk :smile:


----------



## steelydan

anyone with a mineral recipe for spreading on the ground .... I am trying to come up with something other than just dumping a 20# bag of salt round in circles...... I may just break down and buy a trophy rock .... na something homemade is better!!!!


----------



## Antihunter

Unk Bond said:


> ----
> 
> Lets see a pic,of some you have done.And pic of material.
> 
> Unk :smile:




I'll try to get some on tonight if I get timie, If not tomorrow.


----------



## brdeano

*target*

I made this target with scraps from the pole barn in about 15 minutes. just stuffed an old feed bag with scrap plastic sheeting. It wont work with broadheads though


----------



## 87Missouri

up top ^^


----------



## Hoyt123

*Has Anyone Made...*

A HOME MADE HOOTER SHOOTER.... LOVE TO SEE SOME PICS IF SOMEONE HAS MADE ONE.

BTW TTT :thumbs_up :thumbs_up :thumbs_up


----------



## ACLakey

For climbing steps I use a large lag bolts that are painted black. When I hang the stand I bring along my cordless drill and a socket to fit for easy instilation. The bolts are cheep and you can get them in various lengths. They will drill further into a tree than the commercially bought foot pegs and you can angle them up for good footing. My hunting partner uses the bolts, but puts grit tape on the shafts for better footing.


----------



## Dodgedude

ingenius bowpress!
^^^


----------



## Midlife Crisis

Unk Bond - how do you let down slowly on that press?


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*



Midlife Crisis said:


> Unk Bond - how do you let down slowly on that press?


Well
That strap looks like the ones I use on m 4 weeler and truck.
You take one hand a pull the handle down.And with the other hand you hold down on a small lock that is in a cog.Then you let up on the handle slowly and it backs of the slack.
Then when you have repeated this a few times till pressure is off.Then you can hold the cog release .And just pull on the strap.

Hope i haven't confused you.Realy the best thing to do is go to Wal Marts and look at there nylon ratchet straps.


And another way you can think of that ratchet strap.Is it works like a come along.

Or look at the pic of that bow board i posted it works on the same principal.The bow press the straps are dead on both ends .And rachet is in the middle
Later
Unk. :angel:


----------



## EastTexas

*homemade bowfishing reel*

for those looking to get into bowfishing on the cheap, you can make your own reel. Just take one of the small metal coffee cans and drill a hole in the center of the bottom that is the size of the bolt on your stabilizer. Then you simply slide it on the bolt and screw your stabilizer in. Wrap on a little trot line and your done. If you want a bit beefier of a rig, just use about a 5 inch section of large schedule forty pvc. For this you will have to make a metal bracket that fits into the rear of the pvc. Drill a hole in the bracket for mounting to the bow and mount the bracket to the pvc by running screws into the pvc from the outside. Works like a charm.


----------



## EastTexas

for those of you that duck hunt as well, a swimming decoy can be made my mounting a bilge pump to the bottom of a decoy. If you put it on a feeding style decoy you want the water pumping up to simulate a feeding movement. On this style you can just run your wire to a battery enclosed in the back of another decoy. If you want it to swim, use a standard decoy and mount the pump so that the water is shooting to the rear of the decoy. For this style i just run my wire up and into a battery in the back of the same decoy. Due to the weight of batteries though, balance is critical. I had to build a tray to hold mine. If you guys want some more info and pics on this go to www.duckhunter.net . Its a friggin sweet forum. Then go to the boats,blinds,and gadgets forum and do a search for duck butts.


----------



## psychobubba

home made bag target get grain bag fill with plspastic bags from grocery or pollyurethane and paint i have had this bag for 9 years just re paint and re pack with more bags .


----------



## WVDeerHnter

*we built some home made feeders this year*

Tripod feeders have not been lasting long around here because of bears climbing on them and breaking them down. So we took steel cable and strung it between too trees with a pullin in the middle then fastened a boat winch (I do not have a picture of the current set up for this the one here was temporary we have since placed the 2x4 on a 4x4 to get it far enoiugh from the tree to work) to a tree and ran a steel cable the pully to a 50 gallon plastic drum. This keeps it about 6 ft from any tree or anything that can be climbed on to reach the feeder and is about 10 or 11 feet from the ground to the bottom of the feeder.

I am going to try to post some pics showing this.


----------



## Misfire

EastTexas said:


> for those of you that duck hunt as well, a swimming decoy can be made my mounting a bilge pump to the bottom of a decoy. If you put it on a feeding style decoy you want the water pumping up to simulate a feeding movement. On this style you can just run your wire to a battery enclosed in the back of another decoy. If you want it to swim, use a standard decoy and mount the pump so that the water is shooting to the rear of the decoy. For this style i just run my wire up and into a battery in the back of the same decoy. Due to the weight of batteries though, balance is critical. I had to build a tray to hold mine. If you guys want some more info and pics on this go to www.duckhunter.net . Its a friggin sweet forum. Then go to the boats,blinds,and gadgets forum and do a search for duck butts.



I've made a few of those and they work great. I've also made a homemade "Mallard Machine". You can find pics of that on the Fuge as well. 


.


----------



## d1&only

I also made some hanging feeders this year. Don't have a problem with bears though. I used swing chain and long bolt rods with eye nuts to go thru the barrels. Silicone around the holes and spray paint if desired. I also use the american hunter feeders. Here are some pics from my camera phone to give ya'll an idea.


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*



d1&only said:


> I also made some hanging feeders this year. Don't have a problem with bears though. I used swing chain and long bolt rods with eye nuts to go thru the barrels. Silicone around the holes and spray paint if desired. I also use the american hunter feeders. Here are some pics from my camera phone to give ya'll an idea.


-------------
Nice feeder .And that ca mo job.Looks nice.

Now bears here are no problem.But we have a red squirrel.That that thrives on plastic  Had one feeder that i didn't put a wire guard on.Thinking i was saving money .And thinking nothing could get in the area of my spinner.
Well he ate that Plastic cone and spinner.So i replace them with metal.And a $10.00 guard
Well here i use metal drums with a plastic funnel.

Later
Unk :smile:


----------



## dirtydog

great thread... keep them coming...!!


----------



## Scrap Iron

huntaholic said:


> Here is the picture of the Nite Brite Lite in it's package, This is the Green LED type mostly you will find the RED LED type.


I can't find them anywhere


----------



## huntaholic

hey Scrap Iron. If you are in Wally world, try and see if they have them over next to the bobbers. Somewhere on that aisle you should see the Nite Brite bobbers, then look for the repalcement lights. Or you may try an Academy sporting goods store.


----------



## Scrap Iron

I have looked in 2 or 3 different wal-marts none yet. They only have the lighted bobbers,and some batterys and some glowsticks that you snap and tape on the end of your rod.I also tried going to the web site and didn't see anything there. I sure would like to try this


----------



## gordo

Scrap Iron said:


> I have looked in 2 or 3 different wal-marts none yet. They only have the lighted bobbers,and some batterys and some glowsticks that you snap and tape on the end of your rod.I also tried going to the web site and didn't see anything there. I sure would like to try this


thats all i can find too


----------



## wyo bowhunter

not really homemade but home recycled...

bought a new pair of gloves this year, and i like the ones with the open fingers, so looking around and all i could find is the ones with the mitt over cap. so i bought them took them home seam ripped the mitten part off, easy enough huh. but then i'm looking at the mittens and i get the little light bulb feeling. cam covers. heard about them would never buy any but hey these were laying there ready to be trashed, so i slipped them over my cams and damn it if they didn't fit perfect. i drew back to check that nothing would bind or get caught and they did just what they are supposed to, got about to 1/3 draw and they fell silently to the floor. now i have so new true sage cam covers for free.


----------



## Spreggy

Just a couple of target stands. One is wood, highly portable, good for smaller bags. The other is a large bag, very mobile, keeps me from ruining the grass by not leaving it in one spot for too long.


----------



## d1&only

*Thill nite brite*

Here is a link to the lights. red, green. etc.


http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...rite&noImage=0&returnPage=search-results1.jsp


----------



## widowmaker416

*hunting knives*

While these aren't strictly archery items, I thought I'd post some pics of custom hunting knives made by my dad because I like to brag on them. The blades are made from used horse shoeing rasps, and the texture is from the rasp teeth. Dad also makes fillet knives from industrial band saw blades that are far better than the ones you get at wally world, but I dont' have a picture of one. Dad's a master welder and metal worker, and at times in the past he's built everything from overdraws to various types of tree stands.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b230/Royce123/Picture012.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b230/Royce123/Picture011.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b230/Royce123/Picture010.jpg


----------



## WVDeerHnter

Bump!


----------



## HuntmDown

*Homemade scent*

It's easy to make your own deer lure from tarsal glands. Here's a simple recipe for making a tarsal gland tincture. The first step is to select the tarsal glands. You can use doe or buck glands depending on what is available and the lure you wish to make. It's a lot easier to find tarsal glands from a buck that are full of rut scent than it is a doe because does are in heat for such a short time. If I were making a buck tarsal gland lure, I would select glands from a mature buck that are as full of musky, rut smell as possible. To select doe tarsal glands, be sure to take them from a doe in heat. It's easy to tell when a doe is in or is coming into season just from her tarsal glands. If you notice the tarsal glands of most does that you see, they are white. However, as a doe is coming into heat, she will pee down her back legs and onto her tarsal glands. As she does this, the glands become dark and smelly and the doe then leaves her scent signal through out the woods as she travels. As soon as she has been bred, she will lick her tarsal glands clean and white again. If you or a buddy takes a doe with dark tarsal glands, take advantage of your good fortune and make some your own lure! If you can't find what you want that way, try checking out the deer waiting to be processed at the local butcher. Ask nicely, and they'll likely let you help yourself to a gland or two.

As soon as possible after the kill, remove and protect the tarsal glands by refrigerating them until your ready to start making the lure. Cut through the skin around the tarsal gland in a circle about the size of a silver dollar. Then free the tarsal gland by slicing through the membranes and such below the skin. Do not touch the tarsal glands with your bare hands. Use rubber gloves throughout the process so you do not contaminate your lure with human scent.

Put the tarsal glands in a super clean glass jar and add enough denatured alcohol to cover them and seal it up good. It should take about 4 ounces of alcohol for two tarsal glands. Put the jar in a cool, dark place and let them soak for at least two months. When enough time has past, put on rubber gloves, remove the glands and squeeze out as much fluid as you can back into the jar. Just discard the tarsal glands as you have sucked as much of the scent out as possible already.

You now have a tarsal gland tincture. When you first put it out, you'll notice an alcohol smell but that will disipate quickly leaving only the tarsal gland scent. While your lure will attract deer as is, it will work many times better if you add in about half a bottle of tonquin musk. You may also add some of your lure to your favorite doe or buck urine to kick it up a notch. Keep your lure cool and dark and the alcohol will preserve it indefinitely.


----------



## Live4Rut

These are some awesome ideas!!!! Keep 'em coming!


----------



## HuntmDown

*Another scent*

Here’s another easy scent to make. It is made from the interdigital gland that’s located between deer’s hooves. This is the gland that leaves a musky scented trail behind as deer travel through the woods. Deer are able to specifically identify each other from this scent so carefully pick out the deer your going to use, a young or maybe a mature buck or a doe. Cut the deer’s feet off at the first joint above the hoof. Separate the two halves of the hooves, put a large knife between the two and split the leg in half. Just above the hoof, you will see the small sac that is the interdigital gland. Put on rubber gloves to handle the gland so you don’t contaminate the scent. When you’ve pulled out the two halves of the gland, use a knife to scrape out the thick stuff that’s in the center. Put it into a clean jar or plastic bag. If you can’t do the next step right away, then put the jar in the freezer so the gland doesn’t become funky. Make a tincture by adding an ounce or two of denatured alcohol to the jar. Mix the lure as best you can and let it age in a cool dark place for at least a month. You can use this scent as is but most lure makers would mix the interdigital gland scent in with another such as tarsal gland scent or deer urine. Use this scent to make scent trails or as one component of a mock scrape. There will be a little smell of alcohol when you first use the scent but it will dissipate quickly. Good luck!


----------



## jasonmich

The home-made on off luminoks suck! I attempted 3 times with 3 different lights and wasn't sucessful. Spend the money, get the factory made luminok, don't spend 20 dollars on supplies. (should have listened to Jerry).


----------



## Byron

jasonmich said:


> The home-made on off luminoks suck! I attempted 3 times with 3 different lights and wasn't sucessful. Spend the money, get the factory made luminok, don't spend 20 dollars on supplies. (should have listened to Jerry).


I think you mean _your_ homemade lighted nocks suck! 

Some of us reading this thread actually enjoy making our own stuff, hence the title.

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## huntaholic

Well put Byron, I admit I have had some trial and error with the automatic illuminated nock, but now I've got making them down pat!!! Just takes some time and practice, like anything else.


----------



## 2ndchance

thats pretty funny, on my first attempt i made 6 of them and messed ONE of them up, it was the fifth one i made and the cut off nock was too tight so i tried to pull it out and it broke the led. the rest of them work perfectly


----------



## Dave Sikorski

bought a new Pearson Spoiler this year and liked everything but the grip.

I have pretty big hands and with the skinny grip I had some serious hand torque issues.

well I had some Crayola model magic...available at michaels crafts...left over from making popper flies( a whole other hobby).

anyway..the stuff is a moldable foam that hardens after 24 hours. I took a slab of it and wrapped it around the grip and squeezed. scissors worked well to trim the extra. Because I'm impatient I had to wrap it w/ camo duct tape and get out and shoot. well it has since hardened and should work out pretty well. time will tell.

-Dave


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*



Byron said:


> I think you mean _your_ homemade lighted nocks suck!
> 
> Some of us reading this thread actually enjoy making our own stuff, hence the title.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Byron


------------------
Well I get ideas every day, and try to make things.Sure some times i waist money. But like Byron said we like to make things. For me it is a first and bigger hobby than my archery hobby.And when i make something and it works.
then for me. It is a good feeling that I have been able to accomplish my goal that I have set out to do.

Now this habit i picked up as a young man.Reason being in my family there wasn't much money.So if i wanted something .I had to info-vise to come up with it.For fishing i never had money for a Cain pole. But there was plenty willows along the river bank, that I could make a nice fishing pole out of.
Take the same willow cut a small piece notch it and i had a float.

So Bryon keep up the good work.We read you :wink: 
Later
Unk :angel:


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*

Hello Dave

Dave Quote Crayola model magic...available at michaels crafts...
Where might this be located.I don't recognize the name.Would it also be in a catalog.

Later
Unk :smile:


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*



jasonmich said:


> The home-made on off luminoks suck! I attempted 3 times with 3 different lights and wasn't successful. Spend the money, get the factory made luminok, don't spend 20 dollars on supplies. (should have listened to Jerry).


---------------------
Hello

jasonmich quote ] The home-made on off luminoks suck! I attempted 3 times with 3 different lights and wasn't sucessful

Now you have seen others here have great success in makeing them.And they turned out nice.

Now for you to use the words they suck .Just because you couldn't complete your task.Is just useing the words it sucks as a crutch for you failure in makeing one.And in your own words you stated [ I attempted 3 times with 3 different lights and wasn't sucessful

Later
Unk :angel:


----------



## Dave Sikorski

Unk...

If you go to crayolas website i believe the have a product locator section that tells you where in your area they sell something.

The stuff is really neat...it's water based so there are no chemical smells and it should dry within a day. The only downside may be getting it wet.

when I use it for flies it needs a silicone or some other kind of waterproof coating. But I just went with tape this time...has held up so far after two weeks of shooting everyday. Duct tape camo pattern is wearing off though, I get a stained hand everyday.

good luck,
Dave


----------



## bry2476

*There Should Be a Warning*



jasonmich said:


> The home-made on off luminoks suck! I attempted 3 times with 3 different lights and wasn't sucessful. Spend the money, get the factory made luminok, don't spend 20 dollars on supplies. (should have listened to Jerry).


If you are not good at making stuff stay away!!!

I am still thinking of trying it, it doesn't sound complicated but I am probably like him, not enough patience. Also 20 bucks should have been 10 at the most. Thanks for all the good posts guys. 

Any have a good ideas on making a good feeder, 30 gal barrel size?


----------



## Hoyt_dude

After three attempts, I was able to make the lights light up upon firing. Thanks to Byron. So far, I've made three lighted nocks without drilling through the nocks. This is awesome. 

Byron, I found out that you don't really need to insert the pin on the side of LED housing. I stuck it in the middle of the LED housing. Just be carefull not to insert the pin all the way into the middle of the housing or it won't work. A little penetration to the LED housing would work but I had to sand down the nock insert to loosen it a bit so that it's not a hassel to pull them back up. 

I took it to the range and at 30 yrds, 26inch draw, shooting Carbon express 200 arrows with my 05 Vipertec at 70lbs, I was hitting consistantly with/out the lights--no drops. I haven't try it at 40 yards but I anticipated it shouldn't drop much shooting with the lighted nocks. 

Thanks.
Hoyt_dude.


----------



## Byron

Glad you're having a good time!  

I was shooting mine in the backyard at Midnight last night!  

Byron


----------



## deadonat100yard

*homemade stuff*

i made my own 3d quiver.i took a piece of 3" PVC pipe and cut it so that my arrows stick out about a inch past the fletchins. i bought a cap to stop up the end of it at the hardware store. i drilled a hole in the cap near the edge so i could run a string through it and tied it to a belt clip. works like a charm and i can probably fit a dozen or two arrows in the dern thing. it didnt even cost me but 10 bucks :shade:


----------



## Dave Sikorski

well looks like plenty of people are making lighted knocks..

Cabelas is backordered.

-Dave


----------



## deerdad

I just tried the plain light and had a blast in the dark shooting at my bunker.
Now I need to go back and read on how you guys are setting them up so they come on when you shoot. A cheap, fun, homemade item indeed.

Greg


----------



## Stormstaff

ttt


----------



## dave5339

Dave Sikorski said:


> well looks like plenty of people are making lighted knocks..
> 
> Cabelas is backordered.
> 
> -Dave


Bass Pro has them in stock at $3.19 apiece, (Cabelas is $2.99). I picked up two this morning. Going to have to play with them and make myself an illuminock.

Semper Fi


----------



## huntaholic

Man this thing need's a sticky!!!!


----------



## jasonmich

Byron said:


> I think you mean _your_ homemade lighted nocks suck!
> 
> Some of us reading this thread actually enjoy making our own stuff, hence the title.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Byron


I like making home-made stuff too. I'm sorry you felt the need to be defensive about the thread. I tryed making the things. It didn't work. guess i'm not good with little stuff.


----------



## Byron

jasonmich said:


> I like making home-made stuff too. I'm sorry you felt the need to be defensive about the thread. I tryed making the things. It didn't work. guess i'm not good with little stuff.


So why not ask for help instead of saying the nocks "suck"? (Other than being 14, I understand that part.) Any one of us would still be happy to answer any questions you have. I'm not being defensive, that was just good-natured ribbing (notice the winking smilie).

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*

Hey guys made from sink plumbing.The scope will also except a lense.

Look at the Sure Lock head fixed to except now a square bar.Where as before it was round.Now it works like a CBE sight.

Later
Unk :angel: 

--------


----------



## ashx2

Nice job Unk.....keep it comin'

Greg


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*



ashx2 said:


> Nice job Unk.....keep it comin'
> 
> Greg


---------
Well you ask] And your wish is my command  

Now this scope has the same type sun shade on both top ends. 

Now you can roll both of these sun shades around to the bottom if you like.This sight will also except a lense.
Unk :angel:


----------



## Scrap Iron

*replacement/light*



dave5339 said:


> Bass Pro has them in stock at $3.19 apiece, (Cabelas is $2.99). I picked up two this morning. Going to have to play with them and make myself an illuminock.
> 
> Semper Fi


Can you post a direct link to the light? I tryed to find it on line, but never found just the replacement/battery light.


----------



## Byron

Here's the link to the Nite Brite lights at BassPro.com.

They are on the same page as the lighted floats.

Here's the link to the Nite Brite lights at Cabelas.com.

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*



Scrap Iron said:


> Can you post a direct link to the light? I tryed to find it on line, but never found just the replacement/battery light.


Mine cost $2.49 at Wal Marts

Unk :tongue:


----------



## jzirkle1

You would have to cut the back of the arrow off and install unibushings. 




huntaholic said:


> It's the only nocks I've tried them with. I'm not sure how you would go about getting them to work with the Nocks that glue on. I know I have some aluminum arrows that have the inserts for nocks, but haven't tried these yet. Just working on carbons so far. Sorry.
> 
> If you try it post up and let us know how it goes!


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*

Pic of Unk's poor boy telecopeing stablelizer.Made from a alumin hoe.

Later
Unk :angel:


----------



## boanaro

I've had good luck using the little glow sticks as nock lites. Pull out your knock..snap...jam it in to the knock..reinsert knock. Works great, light weight...not too bright. About $2 for 4. I use 2 per day. $1 a day, not too bad.


----------



## ozhuntsman

here is my home made target. used layers of rubber foam (camping/sleeping mats) and contacted them together. i use both sides. my kids and mates also use this one so it gets a pounding. other side is much worse for wear as it has had thousands of shots put in over the last 8 months and i should get another 8 months out of this side. not bad for less than $70 australian. stops broadheads and is self healing (within reason) made jan 05. pic taken 2 days ago.


----------



## Whitefeather

*Homemade Camera Arm*

Here's a camera arm I made out of 3/4" aluminum bar. I bought an old tripod at a yard sale for 4 bucks then tore the head off it. Had a friend weld it to a piece of the bar. I changed the washers used for rotating points to the teflon ones. It's lightweight and not too bad for sturdiness using the smaller cams. You could make one out of larger stock for more sturdiness.

I also changed the "L" bracket to a screw in tree step that I drilled through and put a carriage bolt through, then cut the head off of it. 

JP


----------



## Scrap Iron

Byron said:


> Here's the link to the Nite Brite lights at BassPro.com.
> 
> They are on the same page as the lighted floats.
> 
> Here's the link to the Nite Brite lights at Cabelas.com.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Byron


The replacement battery on the Bass Pro link is the same as the Cabela's? The one at Cabela's says replacement light/battery. And the one at bass pro just says replacement battery.


----------



## Byron

Scrap Iron said:


> The replacement battery on the Bass Pro link is the same as the Cabela's? The one at Cabela's says replacement light/battery. And the one at bass pro just says replacement battery.


Yep, same thing. The light and battery are an integrated unit.

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*

Bow Simulater

Unk :angel:


----------



## RingSteel

If I had some pics of it, I'd post up the instructions to make a homemade hog trap (figure 9 trap) out of hog panels. Hopefully I can get some pics of the trap in action this weekend to post.


----------



## Drog

Unk Bond said:


> Bow Simulater
> 
> Unk :angel:


Unk- Can you post instructions?


----------



## XX75

*Nice bow sim Unk...*

... you can get fancy like that or as simple as mine. It's an aerobics dumbell I drilled out and fitted with eyescrews (held fast w/ epoxy). It's got a comfy grip, and it replicates the actual weight of a real bow in the hand. I'll probably get around to rigging it with a sight mount one of these days...


----------



## Midlife Crisis

*Homemade Bow Press*

I posted this stuff on another thread somewhere. But it is homemade, so here it is again. My press is bolted together - not welded. This gives me more portability (and I did not know where to go to get some welds done cheap).

My discussion of press and plans (some wrong hole sizes are indicated in plans, but they are decent plans that can be modified to your own needs)
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=221704

link to the actual plans:
http://www.bowzone.ca/modules.php?o...article&sid=122

pictures of my homemade press (shown in parts and assembled with bow)
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=217005

picture below:


----------



## HCAman

I posted this on the homemade bowpress thread, but thought I would post it here as well.

Here's one I made. Works great. The ratchet strap needs to be a jack, but I haven't changed it over yet. 

I just fabricated it without to much of a plan, can you guess where I got my inspiration.

The slides are too tight on the bars from welding. I guess I penetrated too good. I am afraid to paint it because of this. As you can tell, it is starting to rust . I try to keed some oil on the rails, but I guess I need to oil the rest too.

I plan on making another one that I hope will be easier to slide so that I can powder coat it or paint it. Although I don't think paint will hold up.


----------



## dapper

Hello
Attached is a photo of the carrier rack/deer cart that I built. A special recevier was setup for the vehicle so the rack slides on the receiver and then pins in place with a standard 5/8" pin and clip. Note in the photo (I hope I attached it properly) that the rack is attached to my truck. The handle nearest the truck is folded back in the position it would be in when used as a carrier rack. While the handle farthest from the truck is extended out and one wheel is attached to illustrate how it becomes a deer cart.
The two tires normally ride in the back of the truck until needed. They are rear tire/axle assemblys from small bikes that I bought at the local goodwill store. Originally I used a front axle and a back axle assembly, but the front axle was lighter weight and it bent under load. 
Dan


----------



## dajcentex

*treestand*

I made a tree stand this year out of a loading pallet. you can get them for free most times. they are usually about 3.5 feet wide by 4 foot long which is the perfect size. I have alot of Live oaks which made for easy mounting. I rested the pallet on a large limb that ran most horizonal then hung it from chains to make it level. also used strong I bolts and lag bolts to secure the chains to the tree and the pallet. since most of the weight is on a 10 inch limb it is safe as can be. all supplies cost a total of $10 with some left over for another. i used 2 colors of camo paint to tone the color down and you don't even see it from below. 

I have also used three pallets wired together and standing on their sides to make a quick ground blind. those work better for gun hunting but with a little camo from dead limbs it also disapears and you can see between the slats so you don't have to build anything.


----------



## canadianarcher

T T T


----------



## Midlife Crisis

*Corrected link to Bow Press Plans*

Link in my last post was defective. This one should work.

http://www.bowzone.ca/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=122

Sorry for the mess up.


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*



Midlife Crisis said:


> Link in my last post was defective. This one should work.
> 
> http://www.bowzone.ca/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=122
> 
> Sorry for the mess up.


------
Hey Midlife] no problem.
Thats a nice diagram.

Unk :smile:


----------



## ashx2

TTT this really needs to be a sticky!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Great ideas guys.....don't stop now...

Greg


----------



## JEofWV

*small game cedars*

I grew up in farm country and didn't have money for "real" equipment but I loved bowhunting!

I started inserting the end of cedar arrows into a spent shell casing (sorry, I can't remember the caliber but it would vary by arrow size anyway) then use a small pointed punch (or finishing nail) to tap an indentation into the four sides to "set" it in the wood. Kills with blunt impact, no arrows stuck in trees, etc.

This worked great on squirrel, rabbit and other small game at close range. *CAUTION!* this was with a recurve at 35# dw and cedar arrows, I don't think I'd try it with a compound without using aluminum or carbon!


----------



## fallriver

Bumpin' this. :shade:


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*

Hey guys while visiting a fellow archer friend yesterday.I was in his garage where he works on his bows for kids he teaches.

Now here was all these arrows hanging down from his garage ceiling.

He had taken a big round magnet,He had aquired from a motor.And he hung it down from the ceiling.Then he takes his arrows with there steel points ,and touches the magnet.And there the arrows hang nicely with the fletching hanging down.Now when he needs a arrow, he just pulls one down from the magnet.

It was a nifty .I will try to get a picture.

Later
Unk :angel:


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply to subject*

Hey guys .Heres one more for you.

While at a different friends house.He showed me a sight scope.

Well he had a up right pin in the scope.And converted it to a pendulum sight.

He had taken a up right pin,one that has a fiber wrapped around the up right pin. Removed the fiber.Took a stick pin like a lady would use to keep her material straight.
Well he put this straight pin through the sight pin hole,and bent the pin down.

Now the pin head was now the aiming dot.And the other end of the pin would swing like a pendulum , to tell you if your bow was level.

Unk :angel:


----------



## Unk Bond

*My new sight*

Hey guys heres a project that cost about $2.50 plus you lense or sight pin.

Now its not complete yet.I have other plans to add on to it like a camo covering.a fiber optic up pin..At this time iam useing a orange dot on my lense.

Now you will also notice that iam useing a square sight bar recessed in a square slotted hole the scope can't turn on the bolt.It is like a CBE system.Only I made a deeper slot for my square sight bar.

Also guys you might take a look at the raw treads on one end of the scope housing.Now these treads will make a nice place to wrap ones fiber optic for a pin sight.

Any Questions just ask.

Guys I have scopes made by 5 high priced scope company's .And this PVC scope accomplishes the same thing as theres dose.Example my last target this evening had 4X's and a 5 spot.

Guys I have been shooting a fiber optic up pin sight.And for some reason the orange lense dot inside the white housing of the PVC scope .Realy makes my dot stand out.Now useing it in the woods might be another story.But outside and on a indoor range it should do the job,with the best of them.

Later
Unk :angel:


----------



## gordo

i thought about doing that one time how does it work 

bump


----------



## TributeHunter09

*home made drop away.*

i made a home made drop away. i took a regular two pronged rest with a spring. then i reversed the spring so instead of pushing the prongs up it pulled them down. then i took a piece of string loop and tied it to the right prong(left if you left handed) and tied the other end to the cable slide.


----------



## Mexican 3D

Unk Bond said:


> Hey guys heres a project that cost about $2.50 plus you lense or sight pin.
> 
> Now its not complete yet.I have other plans to add on to it like a camo covering.a fiber optic up pin..At this time iam useing a orange dot on my lense.
> 
> Now you will also notice that iam useing a square sight bar recessed in a square slotted hole the scope can't turn on the bolt.It is like a CBE system.Only I made a deeper slot for my square sight bar.
> 
> Also guys you might take a look at the raw treads on one end of the scope housing.Now these treads will make a nice place to wrap ones fiber optic for a pin sight.
> 
> Any Questions just ask.
> 
> Guys I have scopes made by 5 high priced scope company's .And this PVC scope accomplishes the same thing as theres dose.Example my last target this evening had 4X's and a 5 spot.
> 
> Guys I have been shooting a fiber optic up pin sight.And for some reason the orange lense dot inside the white housing of the PVC scope .Realy makes my dot stand out.Now useing it in the woods might be another story.But outside and on a indoor range it should do the job,with the best of them.
> 
> Later
> Unk :angel:



i have 3 scopes made like the one you did. one has a side pin, the other one has a stick on dot, and the other one has a drilled through lens. i have been using those for some time now, and they compete with any high $$$ scopes. i spend about $2 on each, plus $9 for the lens. right now i have 2 of them and a Super scope on 3 different scope holders, so i can pick anyone and mount it on the sure loc sight bar. the 3 of them are sighted for my bow.

the scopes have a camera type lens holder, so you can change lenses quickly. how did you make yours???


----------



## outback1

Up


----------



## TAMA9

Iabow said:


> Heres an idea for a cheap backstop or in a pinch a target. Get one of those bundles of cardboard that stores compact and bundle up and throw out back behind their stores. They are free and diffently stop arrows.


i have a plastic bail that i use and it works great! the reason i went with plastic is i thought it would last longer in all weather........ heres a pic........


----------



## Target Tony

i have made many things for bowhunting.. most are pretty simple..

the best bow hanger out there , a tree step with 3/8s air hose over the step part.. its a tight fit , but works great..

i have made a device to put my video camera in the tree with me.. i know they make them , but they are pretty expensive.. mine are so easy to make with a welder and very light weight and take up little space . 

i machined a aluminnum plate to go in my stabilizer hole to video bow shots . but it didnt work very well. the 8mm camera film jumped when the bow went off and didnt get the impact of the arrow i wanted..


thuis isnt stuff i have made , but just ideas to share..

for the scent game i have taken scrape dirt from an active real scrape and put it in plastic bags and transported it to my mock scrapes.. saves a bunch on scent for you to use...

also for treestands straps , i like the overcam buckle . so instead of spending the 20 some bucks for one from the manufacturer , i ordered one from a industrial catalog that i have at work.. they are the same thing and only sell for about 5 bucks.. i checked the listed weight they are rated for and the specs match up perfect.. talk about mark up !

for you guys that have stands that squeek , use teflon washers on your stands where the bolts go through . they are about 10 bucks per 100 from industrial catalogs..


Shoot Strong
Tony


----------



## affe22

*Crester*

Just finished my attempt at a crester. I don't really know what it needs to be like outside of being able to spin the arrow quickly. Made it out of a hand mixer from Walmart. I'll post pictures if anyone is interested or if you think you could give me some tips on how one should be built.


----------



## Meatco1

Ttt


----------



## Antihunter

*Lighted nocks on ebay*

I thought this was interesting,seems someone took an homemade idea and put it out for a price.


http://cgi.ebay.com/lighted-nock-ho...188382785QQcategoryZ20842QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## huntaholic

Antihunter said:


> I thought this was interesting,seems someone took an homemade idea and put it out for a price.
> 
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/lighted-nock-ho...188382785QQcategoryZ20842QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


That doesn't make any sense. I would hope it's not someone who reads/posts here. Trying to make money off an idea and not doing any leg work other than cut and paste of some directions found here. :thumbs_do Just my opinion.


----------



## KELLY

Byron, let us know how it worked out with the "light on upon release".


----------



## Dog

*Homemade deer cart*

After dragging one deer to many out of the woods and through the field I made this. (image below). I took a $20 hand truck from TSC bought $12 worth of black 1/2 pipe, and scrounged some wheels off an old lawn spreader (the 10" wheels that came with the hand truck would have worked, but these are better). Some cutting, welding, bending, and painting later... Here it is. :drum:


----------



## fgpatton-ky

*cross bolt fletching adapter!*

Heres a simple thing you can use to fletch cross bolts--Its 1 1/4" of a fat shaft arrow (gold tip x cutter) with nock. I use it with a grayling mono fletcher. Simply put the end of the bare cross bolt shaft inside 1 1/4" piece of shaft and its ready to be fletched. You can also make cross bolts from old arrow shafts by cutting them to your regular cross bolt length and putting inserts in the cut end. I did this for a friend of my wifes.


----------



## [email protected]

If you follow the link below, you can build your own arrow cut-off saw. 
http://www.deerslayer.freewebspace.com/hbarrowsaw.html 

I got the idea from this site and made my own version of it. 
The things I changed were the mounting of the tool and I made the backstop slide in a rail. 










I can make some more, detailed pictures, if you like.


----------



## gmherps

cutting my own arrows would be nice!!! Great post.


----------



## Wilbsd

*Climbing stand*

If you do a search for "climbing stand video" you will find some pictures of a climbing stand that a friend and I built. It's a bit on the heavy side but I put more trust in that stand than I do of some of the cheapies.


----------



## Wilbsd

Here's pictures of my stand we made.


----------



## ftshooter

Antihunter said:


> I thought this was interesting,seems someone took an homemade idea and put it out for a price.
> 
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/lighted-nock-ho...188382785QQcategoryZ20842QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



I se people doing this a lot..There are free plans on line ..About building small boats ..Go to E-bay and there are people selling the very same plans ..


----------



## 87Missouri

That homemade climber is wicked cool! How'd you go about making that?


----------



## Wilbsd

A friend of mine actually made one by looking at a store bought one that his brother had bought, can't remember the name brand. Once his was done he let me copy it. It works great if you have a place that you don't have to worry about it being stolen. Cause I sure wouldn't want to pack it in and out everytime I hunted.


----------



## KELLY

How much does the climber weigh?
Did you use a motorcycle chain?
Looks good?


----------



## Nicojax

I have made a tree stand it has never let me down... i always love makking stuf then u can ihave it the way u want it


----------



## Dodgeballz

Ttt


----------



## ArcheryPlus

ttt - thought maybe we could see something new

These are the 3D target stands that we make. The front post is moveable to adapt to any commercial target.


----------



## rangerunner

neet looking target stand,,,u need to fix it so u can pull it behind a 4 wheeler
get some good practice in on a moving target,,get your so called buddy to pull it for ya,,,LOL


----------



## hoytshooter09

*knife*

For my winter prodject i made a knife. its a blast, theres a website i got my supplies off for cheap but i cant think of it now. i will try to look it up and tell you later. the knife turned out real nice.


----------



## lefteye

*Homemade Stuff*

A buddy and I have several "homemade" accessories. We designed and had a shop make devices which we installed with Grade 8 bolts on hang-on tree stands to make the floor angle adjustable. (Similar to one Summit made). This lets us keep the floor level on stands hung on tree trunks leaning back (which are more comfortable for 12 hour hunts). We designed and made a device to lock hang-on stands to deter theft. Since using them I've had only one stand stolen. Thieves had to break the stand to steal it and didn't get the locking device (which I then installed on a replacement stand.) Prior to that I had 4 stand stolen that were locked on trees with twisted steel cable.) I don't want to describe the device because we are considering trying to get a patent. I have also designed and installed several types of "permanent" tree stands using pressure treated lumber - none have ever failed us and most are extremely quiet. However, they tend to be heavy and obviously restrict flexibility to change stand locations. We made aluminum brackets to carry 4 sections of Lone Wolf stick ladders on aluminum pack frames for hunting public land where screw-in steps were prohibited. We made middle sections for our hinged Realtree bow hangers before Realtree did. These give us more length and flexibility for hanging a bow in the best position in a tree. We tend to be a little (our wives say "very") obsessive about "Homemade Stuff" for bow hunting.


----------



## flyfishtn

TTT - Sticky.....p-l-e-a-s-e


----------



## mdewitt71

*GREAT Thread, keep it going.......*

This thread is great, I have already saw some great projects like the PVC pipe feeder, the Bag target stake board, and the Dremel cut off tools......

:thumbs_up Lets keep this on going...........:thumbs_up


----------



## Bowbender8

*My HBS homemade copy*

Here tis. Use heater as a search term and you'll find other threads discussing the details.


----------



## Meatco1

Drew Carey should have had that warm up suit!!

Richard


----------



## Dr. Killdeer

An excellent thread! Dr. Saxton Pope and Arthur Young would be proud! Early on, archers made everything needed. :thumbs_up


----------



## hoytshooter09

*boat*

here is a boat I made over the winter. you could use it to get across a river to your treestand. Fun winter prodject.


http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=116292&stc=1&d=1136165266


----------



## huntaholic

hoytshooter09 said:


> here is a boat I made over the winter. you could use it to get across a river to your treestand. Fun winter prodject.
> 
> 
> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=116292&stc=1&d=1136165266



Good lookin boat! You and fellow ATer Misfire can really build a nice boat.


----------



## mdewitt71

hoytshooter09 said:


> here is a boat I made over the winter. you could use it to get across a river to your treestand. Fun winter prodject.



Nice boat, looks like it would make a great duck blind pretty easy as well....................


----------



## BowTech07

*duck huntin*

when im not deer huntin i put a homeade blind on there and go duck hunting.
Woks great, and easy


----------



## Jerry/NJ

Home made stirrups for my Summit Viper climber


----------



## slim9300

Byron said:


> I went to Wal-Mart and Bass Pro today - came up with a total of ONE Nite Brite! I'll play around with it this weekend. I did a Google search and found a thread on the Bowsite that added a twist - installing the neck section of another nock inside the shaft to allow the Nite Brite to be turned on automatically upon release. I'll be playing around with it this weekend.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Byron


Can you post a link from bowsite, I can't find it. Thanks a ton!


----------



## slim9300

Never mind, I found it on page two.


----------



## MisterEd

*Shipping savings*



HeWhoHunts said:


> Naturally, my local Wally World dont have do-whop.
> 
> Cabela's has four colors advertied
> 
> clear, red, yellow, green......2.99 and shipping which is probably about what it cost me in GAS to go to WW anyway.
> 
> http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...t=BuyRate.Net and netSOHO.net&cm_ite=DDI Link
> 
> A HUGE thanks to our friend who posted this info above.
> 
> Give's me something to tinker with and makes me look SOMEWHAT ingenius locally.......
> 
> HWH


If your state has a sales tax and you don't live in Nebraska, put together a decent Cabela's order, and the sales tax savings may cover shipping. 
-Ed


----------



## MisterEd

*SEE and HAUL*

Here are a couple:

1. If you have a hooded coat and you hate to put up the hood because of vision problems take some thread and gather some material on each side at the height where it will increase your periferal vision. I call it a vision tuck. Your lady should be able to help you if this stumps you.

2. For a strong quiet hook for your bow haul up line shaped just like you want it scrounge a piece of 10-2 romex from an electrician friend. Just lop off a chunk and bend away. You may have to use a vise for tight bends. There are three #10 solid copper (rustproof) wires in 10-2 and the sheathing makes for quiet. Note: In some states electricians aren't allowed to use romex.

This stuff is half the fun!

-Ed


----------



## ilarcher

*Boot Blankets*

I had posted before on another tread of the first pair i had made of these. Well i have made i revised version of my boot blankets. i just added another piece of fabric to my first to make it a little easier to get on while in a tree stand.

These are lined with polar fleece and i used carpet pad for the sole(they are not glued or sewn in so they can be changed out as they get dirty).

I have tried these out to see if they would work the way i wanted them to and what I did was to hunt from the ground one day with 8" on snow on the ground and waited for my feet to get cold. I put them on and within 15 min. my feet were nice and toasty again(oh did i mention it was only 10 degrees out too). I made them big enought to put them heat packs on the toes but i didn't need them and they are easy to walk in too, no more cold feet for me while in the stand.


----------



## DougR

*Glad you started this thread 87 MO!*

I really get a lot of enjoyment from this thread. 
Hey 87, I see you are from the St Louis area, I am your cross state neighbor in KC area. 
I have been having fun tinkering with the bobble lites and nocks.
Doug


----------



## CWarmouth

ilarcher said:


> I had posted before on another tread of the first pair i had made of these. Well i have made i revised version of my boot blankets. i just added another piece of fabric to my first to make it a little easier to get on while in a tree stand.
> 
> These are lined with polar fleece and i used carpet pad for the sole(they are not glued or sewn in so they can be changed out as they get dirty).
> 
> I have tried these out to see if they would work the way i wanted them to and what I did was to hunt from the ground one day with 8" on snow on the ground and waited for my feet to get cold. I put them on and within 15 min. my feet were nice and toasty again(oh did i mention it was only 10 degrees out too). I made them big enought to put them heat packs on the toes but i didn't need them and they are easy to walk in too, no more cold feet for me while in the stand.


ilarcher, I like it. Do you have any patterns or anything that you could share? Where did you get the material to make them? A few more details would be really cool.


----------



## jer7440

Yeah, more info on the boot blankets please!

I think this is the best thread I have read here. I'm in process on a homemade bow press and arrow saw made with a rotozip.


----------



## silentharvest1

*Thill Lights Cheap*

Go to www.Carolinafalls.com.He is a freind of mine and we hunt together. Great place for cheap arrow wraps and lighted nock kits as well as Thill Lights.


----------



## carolinafalls

Hey Charlie Thanks for posting my web site www.carolinafalls.com

Our wraps are $4.00 per dzn
Lighted nock kits are $14.99 for a 3 pack kit
and $2.25 for the replacment lights just like the Thill lights.

Allen


----------



## ilarcher

On the boot blanks, I just took my hunting boots and traced the sole of the boot out and squared the toe off but with rounded corners. Then i basicly just looked at the side of my boot and made the same thing but and good two inches bigger in height and two inches long than what the sole piece measured. For the middle peice I just measured how wide my boot was and added and inch to that( about 6 inches). For the lenght of the middle peice(the peice that goes over the toes) I measured my side pattern from the base of the toe to the top of the pattern, its better to be long and cut off extra after sewing). 

I then started to get read to cut the fabric, i folded the fabric in half so that the insides were together. When you cut the fabric remeber that you only need to cut one set of the sole pattern and one set for the middle toe pattern but you have to cut two of the side patterns. You have to do this for the camo fabric and the fleece material(thats what i used for insulation, just plain black polar fleece). So when you get done cutting them out you will have two sets of sides in camo, two sets of sides in fleece, one set of soles in camo, and one set of toes in camo, and one set of toes in fleece. Remeber that I folded all the material in half berfore cutting, so you will be cutting threw two layers of fabric!!!! To make cutting the patterns out easier I pin the pattern to the fabric with straight pins( common sewing straight pins).

I then lined the peices up to each other( one peice of camo to the same piece in fleece) and straight pinned those so they don't move when sewing. 
I then sewed the toe peice to the sides and the sides and toe peice to the sole peice(sole peice is just camo fabric).REMEBER TO SEW EVERYTHING INSIDE OUT, THAT WAY YOU HAVE CLEAN EDGES WHEN YOU TURN IT RIGHT SIDE OUT. When sewing the sole peice to the rest I found it easier to start the sewing at the toe end, so you have to kind of line everything up, sew down one edge and then go back and go down the other edge, making sure that at the back they over lap at least an inch. I also sew around the top edge and back edge of the side peices, then just some simple velcro at the top edge to be able to hold them close.

For the liner for the sole I just used a peice of carpet pad and just kept trimming it to where it fit in the bottom nice and didn't move around.

As for the fabric i used the heaviest fabric i could find at the fabric store( just happened to be a Joanne Fabric Store but Hancock fabric has alot to pick from on there website) I found the cano fabric in a demin material, its just like heavy blue jean material, and the fleece was what ever they had on sale that was nice and thick(I just happen to get my fleece from my mom who has more fleece than anyone I know), fleece is the "IN" thing now and can find it anywhere, Walmart has it.

I will take a few more pic's and post them! Thanks for the intrest in these!!


----------



## ilarcher

ok here are a few more pic's, the first one is a pic of the velcro, the second one is what i made the sole like and the rest are just pic's of them inside out and of the seems,,, hope you all enjoy.

BTW if anyone is interested I will make you a set to fit your boots for a small price to cover my material. I just need a few measurements. Just send me a PM if anyone has questions or would like me to make them a set!

Thanks again,,,ilarcher

I hope this works ,,I have never uplaod this many pic's!!!!

I do have some simple patterns i could send to people!


----------



## CWarmouth

*Thanks*

ilarcher - thanks for all the great info and pictures and for the PM. (Obviously I found the thread). That was cool of you to make that extra effort. I am definitely going to try my hand at making some. I'll be calling on you if I run into any trouble. I printed out the instructions so I can read along as I go.


----------



## jer7440

Thanks ilarcher! Thanks for th PM heads up as well.


----------



## hhancock

*Thanks*

I just would like to say thank you for all the great info. I cant wait to try some of the projects.


----------



## Brad007

*I made booties also.*

ilarcher, the post you put up is great. I made my own pull on booties about 9 yrs ago. Mine are currently in one of my treestands but I will pick them up and take pictures and post them. About 10 yrs ago I purchased a sewing machine and started making all my own camo pants, shirts, jackets and then the booties. On the booties I took some old insulated undewear and fleece material to make mine insulated. I took some large pieces of paper and traced around the boots then cut the paper and made my own pattern. I will post a picture of them in a couple days. I always figured I was the only guy in the world to sew my own hunting equipment. I also made a large pouch for my tree steps. I use mostly strap on steps and they are bulky so I took and sewed a large pouch out of fleece to keep 12-15 steps in. I put two belt loops on top so I can put it on my climbing belt around my waist. The steps hang down and never fall out which happened when using a fanny pack for steps. I then added two pockets on the outside of my pouch one is for my tree saw and the other if for my hand shears.


----------



## TailChaser

I've considered making a regular dolly into a game cart. You would just have to make an attachment to go on the front. Would be easy if you had the right tools, and would be a lot better than dragging.

But I just bought one for $80 at bass pro. Had a gift card I needed to burn.


----------



## jersey hunter

bump..


----------



## huntaholic

*Some instructions for the On/Off Lighted nock*

Here's some instructions on how to make the On/Off version of the Lighted nocks we made. Feel free to P.M. me for any help.

What you need will be the Thill LED, 2 Nocks, Super Glue, and I use 2 or 3 staples, and a little candle, needle nose pliars, dremmel tool with cut off wheel.

Take one of the nocks and cut off the insert part that goes into your arrow. Cut it right below where the nock makes the transition from insert to nock. Some pruning shears work great to cut the nocks straight, otherwise use a dremmel with a cut off wheel. Set this aside for now. 

Take the staples and bend one side so you have a "L" shape staple. Light your little candle, I use those little candles my fiance puts under Potpouri pots. 

Take your other nock (I like to use transparent ones) and insert the Thill LED into the Nock. Push it up in there as far as you can get it. It'll turn on and that's fine, leave it on and use the needle nose pliars to hold the staple over the candle. You want to heat up the long side of the "L" til it's white hot.

Now what you want to do is insert the staple throught the nock and into the red COLLAR on the LED. NOT THE LED ITSELF! Take it in as if you are pushing through the side of the nock on the radius and just enough to catch the collar on the led. I put at least 2 or 3 of the staples in to hold the collar. This is what allows the nock to be turned off.

Now what you do is take the dremmel with the cut off wheel and cut the staples off of the nock and sand them down to the plastic so it doesn't damage the inside of the shafts. While you're sanding the staples sand off any little raised areas on the insert of the nock with the LED in it. This way the nock will slide easily in and out of the shaft.

Now remember that cut nock, what you want to do is sand a little, NOT much on those raised spots on this. DON'T sand them completely off. Take a drop or 2 of super glue and drop them in the inside of the cut insert. Put this on a piece of cardboard and be sure you're on a flat surface.

Now take the nock with the LED in it. You want to put the bottom battery part in to the cut nock. I always put the battery into the factory side of the cut nock and not the side where you cut it in half. It fits better in the factory side. Be sure you push it in where you have an even spacing all around the battery base so it goes in your shaft straight. 

Let this dry over night! I have a couple of arrows that I was in a hurry with and found this out the hard way! 

Now you want to insert this in your arrow. If your arrows are fletched then you want to align the nock to what ever way your cock vane is setting to avoid fletching contact on your rest. 

REMEMBER: You don't want to twist this nock.

Now push the nock in completely and it will be on. What you do is once it's completely seated, simply pull straight back on it about 1/8" and it should turn off. Usually I just use my teeth and gently pull the nock and feel the "Click".

Take it out and shoot to test. Keep in mind not to twist the LED's since it will ruin them. It may take a couple to perfect but once you've got it, it'll be simple and you'll be making them with ease. Just remember, super glue on the bottom of the battery and staples in the COLLAR!

Hope this helps.

Hunt.


----------



## gonehunting 45

*deer cart*

worked great bulit it last summer. Posted it on a different thread at one time


----------



## silentharvest1

*home brew site*

Here's another neat little site some of you might find of interest.
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~jeffreym/htm/homebrew/yourself2.html


----------



## jersey hunter

bump


----------



## 87Missouri

t..ttt.tttuh tuh top.


----------



## Terry Allan Hal

Many thanks, Huntaholic! I'm going to try my hand at some of these this weekend!


----------



## brokenblade

*Back Quiver*

I just finished a back quiver that took like 10 minutes to make. Tired of having arrows making a snap as i pull them out of my bow mounted quiver. Got an old plastic tube-4" diameter with a rubber cover on bottom. Lined the inside with burlap and am gonna spraypaint it to keep the plastic shine away. Also got a piece of twine that was long enough to run throught the entire tube and tied the ends so it will go over my shoulder. Post pics later if i can.


----------



## huntaholic

Terry Allan Hal said:


> Many thanks, Huntaholic! I'm going to try my hand at some of these this weekend!


No problem. PM me if you have questions.


----------



## dinsdale

Yoink in quest for a sticky!


----------



## Terry Allan Hal

Nice looking guitar, ozhuntsman...looks a lot like a Paul Reed Smith, but w/ nicer wood!


----------



## Postone

*Thill Nite Brite...$2.49*

Hunt...

I just picked up a hand full of the Thill replacment Batteries at Sportsmans warehouse for $2.49 and they have plenty of them...

I also found a substiute for the Nitro Lights that will fit in my Trophy Ridge Site right next to them... they're called GlowSticks and look identical to Nitro Lights just packaged differently for $1.50 ... I'll be saving a few $$$ next season.

:beer:


----------



## carolinafalls

Postone said:


> Hunt...
> 
> I just picked up a hand full of the Thill replacment Batteries at Sportsmans warehouse for $2.49 and they have plenty of them...
> 
> I also found a substiute for the Nitro Lights that will fit in my Trophy Ridge Site right next to them... they're called GlowSticks and look identical to Nitro Lights just packaged differently for $1.50 ... I'll be saving a few $$$ next season.
> 
> :beer:


 We sell the replacment lights for $2.25 each at www.carolinafalls.com


----------



## LiteSpeed1

This is by far the most entertaining post I seen in a long time. A lot of inventive folks out there. I am going to try and make some of the lighted nocks and maybe some of the boot blankets. For now, the only "manufacturing" that I've done this last year is to put wheels on my ladderstand. I recieved a ladderstand a few years back as a Christmas gift. It is/was a 12' stand and it weighed about 55#. I like to be higher up than 
12' so I bought another 4' section which also brought the weight up about 10#. This thing was a "bear" to get in and out of the woods, so I got ahold of some wheels and axle mounts for a wheelchair. I mounted the axle mounts directly to the stand where it curves at the top to form the seating platform. The wheels go on by pushing in on a detent button in the end of the axle. This lets me strap the stand together, put the wheels on and roll it to wherever I want to go. I can then pop the wheels off. The beauty of this is, if need be I can also use the stand as a game cart. One other thing that I needed to modify is the brace that goes from the ladder to the tree. By using another extension piece making the stand taller, the brace needed to be made adjustable to fit different size trees. This was done by cutting 6" out of the center of the brace and welding a square tubing sleeve on the outside. I drilled holes 1" on center and can secure the tubing in place with a 1/4" clevis pin. I'll see if I can post pictures later. (might need help from the better-half).


----------



## Postone

*Carolina Falls*



carolinafalls said:


> We sell the replacment lights for $2.25 each at www.carolinafalls.com


:decision:
I was actually going to buy them from you if I could not find them locally.
But It was a better deal to buy them locally and save the $2.00 shipping charge.

I have ordered wraps from your web site and would reccommend it to anyone who uses wraps. Best price I have found.


----------



## mdewitt71

LiteSpeed1 said:


> This is by far the most entertaining post I seen in a long time. A lot of inventive folks out there.


That is why I stay subscribed here too..............


----------



## RxBowhunter

*Boot Blankets II*

I made these in college when treebark was the camo of the day. I still like it a lot. 
They have cotton on the outside, fiberfill insulation and thick fleece on the inside. They have a zipper on the back to make it easy to put on over hunting boots and a drawcord to close the top after putting them on.
They are washable.

I have never had cold feet when wearing these in the treestand.

Rx


----------



## RxBowhunter

another pic


----------



## RxBowhunter

another


----------



## RxBowhunter

the back and bottom


----------



## redman

*great info*

great info


----------



## carolinafalls

Postone said:


> :decision:
> I was actually going to buy them from you if I could not find them locally.
> But It was a better deal to buy them locally and save the $2.00 shipping charge.
> 
> I have ordered wraps from your web site and would reccommend it to anyone who uses wraps. Best price I have found.


You are right the shipping cost is a deal breaker. For any one on the forum that would like to buy any replacements light just email me the cost will Be $2.25 each and $1.00 shipping for any qty.

www.carolinafalls.com


----------



## sdpeb1

*ladder stand wheels*

I love this idea of adapting some wheels to a ladder stands. I had the same idea this year. All the section of my stand stack together very nice, and then through a couple of straps on it and it's a pretty compact unit. Never thought about a using it as a game cart too,great idea. Hope you can post a pic of yours sometime. Now I got to find a unattended wheelchair that I can steal the wheels off-lol.


----------



## mdewitt71

This does not even rank with some of the great items I have saw on this thread, but its homemade and serves it purpose....










We still had alot of cardboard from our move back to the US and with Christmas.....So instead of taking it to the dump I decided I try this out. It contains other cardboard boxes, old newspaper and magazines. It works quit well....


----------



## XP35

It's not really for hunting but it is related in a way. Night before last I built a stabilizer. I wanted a longer carbon target stabilizer, but have to travel a LONG ways to get one. I was looking at some XX75 2014s my nephew outgrew and decided the camo was a perfect match to my limb pockets and cams. So in a half hour of spontaneous brilliance (I just wish it lasted longer!) I built it with what I have laying around. I put high-density foam discs in it to damp vibration, but I'm thinking slightly modified Sims cable guard dampers to prevent any "ringing". I'm sure lots of you have done this sort of thing. I shot a practice game with it today (297-41X) getting ready for tomorrow night. It's already quiet and I seem to hold steadier (considering it's lighter than my other stabilizer) and I like the balance better. Whatcha' think?


----------



## John Doe

This is just a small addition to one of the other tools I saw on this thread. I made the arrow cut-off saw from my dremel, but I then attached a hose clamp and my Shop Vac to create a cheap "dust collector". 

And also thanks to this thread, I've made several luminocks! Thanks fellow ATers!

--John


----------



## jer7440

*What nocks should I use?*

I am trying to make the lighted nock but the nocks that came with my Gold Tip arrows dont work. The plastic seems to brittle and they keep cracking. Is there another nock I could use?


----------



## buck-n-rut

*Homemade Bow Press Plans*

I am trying to get the plans for the homemade bow press. The link for the plans posted on bowzone.ca posted on page 9 didn't work. Does anyone have the plans that they can send me? Thanks!


----------



## intheflats

Here are some plans for a homemade bow press. Good luck
http://www.deerslayer.freewebspace.com/hbbowpress.html


----------



## jer7440

Hey,

I don't know if anyone is still trying to build the light up nocks, but I finally had some success! Initially I was trying to mod the nocks that came with my Gold Tip arrows. Two evenings and about six broken nocks later I gave up. By the time I opend the nock up so the light would fit into it, the plastic was too thin and brittle. They just kept crumbling when I tried to push them into the arrow shaft. Not to mention the mess I was making trying to shove a hot pin through the plastic.

I was about to give up when one of my old aluminum arrows caught my eye. I grabbed my pliers and yanked out the Uni-nock. Wow! The Thill light fits into this and I don't even have to drill the hole bigger! The only problem was the nock is a solid color and the light didn't shine through very bright. So I found a drill that was smaller than the string gap of the nock and I made a hole that goes all the way through the nock so the light could get out.

I was dreading the next step though, trying to pin the light into the nock. I had read on this thread that super gluing it in doesnt work because the glue gets into the Thill light and sticks the switch on or off. What I did is dribble a little thin super glue (watery liquid consistency, NOT GEL) into the nock through the tiny hole I had just drilled. I put the glue in from the string side of the nock. Then, I hit the super glue (CA glue) with CA glue accelerator. CA glue accelerator causes CA glue (super glue) to cure instantly. With the glue cured instantly it didn't have a chance to leak down around the LED and cause switching problems.

I used the thin consistency CA because I wanted to make sure it got down in the hole and made contact with the LED. With a gel type super glue it may have been hard to tell if the glue had gotten far enough into the hole to hit the light.

Most stores have super glue in different consistencies. My CA accelerator was from back in the day when I built RC planes. You should be able to get it at any hobby shop that sells airplane stuff.

This seems to be working for me, but I only have one complete assembly right now. I only had 2 Thill lights and I wrecked one on my first attempt. So I need to get some more lights and some more uninocks so I can make a few more.


----------



## Hoyt Hunter

the light up knock i might try but i would not skip out on treestand stuff it is just to dangerous


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## huntaholic

jer7440 said:


> Hey,
> 
> I don't know if anyone is still trying to build the light up nocks, but I finally had some success! Initially I was trying to mod the nocks that came with my Gold Tip arrows. Two evenings and about six broken nocks later I gave up. By the time I opend the nock up so the light would fit into it, the plastic was too thin and brittle. They just kept crumbling when I tried to push them into the arrow shaft. Not to mention the mess I was making trying to shove a hot pin through the plastic.
> 
> I was about to give up when one of my old aluminum arrows caught my eye. I grabbed my pliers and yanked out the Uni-nock. Wow! The Thill light fits into this and I don't even have to drill the hole bigger! The only problem was the nock is a solid color and the light didn't shine through very bright. So I found a drill that was smaller than the string gap of the nock and I made a hole that goes all the way through the nock so the light could get out.
> 
> I was dreading the next step though, trying to pin the light into the nock. I had read on this thread that super gluing it in doesnt work because the glue gets into the Thill light and sticks the switch on or off. What I did is dribble a little thin super glue (watery liquid consistency, NOT GEL) into the nock through the tiny hole I had just drilled. I put the glue in from the string side of the nock. Then, I hit the super glue (CA glue) with CA glue accelerator. CA glue accelerator causes CA glue (super glue) to cure instantly. With the glue cured instantly it didn't have a chance to leak down around the LED and cause switching problems.
> 
> I used the thin consistency CA because I wanted to make sure it got down in the hole and made contact with the LED. With a gel type super glue it may have been hard to tell if the glue had gotten far enough into the hole to hit the light.
> 
> Most stores have super glue in different consistencies. My CA accelerator was from back in the day when I built RC planes. You should be able to get it at any hobby shop that sells airplane stuff.
> 
> This seems to be working for me, but I only have one complete assembly right now. I only had 2 Thill lights and I wrecked one on my first attempt. So I need to get some more lights and some more uninocks so I can make a few more.



Good to hear your success, When I made them with the GT's, I didn't drill the Gold Tip nocks just inserted the lite into them. Actually like the GT's better than the Easton's as far as ease to work with.


----------



## 6bloodychunks

i made a green homemade one and its nowhere near as bright as my lumenok's....................heres a pic , red lumenok on the left green homemade nock ,the lumenok is much brighter !!!!!


----------



## Byron

6bloodychunks said:


> i made a green homemade one and its nowhere near as bright as my lumenok's....................heres a pic , red lumenok on the left green homemade nock ,the lumenok is much brighter !!!!!


Let's see a pic from the tail end of the arrow. Doesn't matter a great deal how bright it is from the side. Mostly, that has to do with the color and transparency of the nock, as well as the depth of the LED in the nock. If you drilled a small hole through the nock, none of those three factors really come into play looking at the arrow from the tail end.

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## Jerry/NJ

If you use Lumenoks and want to practice with the same weight nock, make your own! :wink: 

Weigh a lumenok first and write it down. Then take one of the regular nocks from the arrow and fill it with epoxy and then stick an aluminum nail in it, head first. Let the epoxy set up and then weight it. Now keep cutting off the amount of the nail you need to reach the weight of the Lumenok and you're good to go~ 
ps, I color code mine so I know which has the nail in it.


----------



## Jerry/NJ

If you have nocks which are loose in your arrows, take some nail polish hardner and lightly coat the part of the nock that goes into the shaft, let dry. If the nock wont go in, just lightly sand down the high parts until it fits snug.


----------



## 6bloodychunks

*comparison pics*

ok byron , heres a few pics of the nocks for comparison both nocks are the same transparency and the LED's are the same depth no holes in the end of either nock ,the lumenok's are much much brighter , one thing though ,the led in the lumenok is bigger than in the thill light. im sure thats the reason for the brightness difference......................... i also have a video of both nocks being shot ill post the link


----------



## Byron

Cool, thanks for the extra pics. I have both, and haven't noticed much difference. I certainly think the homemade lights are bright enough for the application and the weight and cost savings are nice!

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## jer7440

huntaholic said:


> Good to hear your success, When I made them with the GT's, I didn't drill the Gold Tip nocks just inserted the lite into them. Actually like the GT's better than the Easton's as far as ease to work with.


The GT's I was working with had the little screw in the middle to tighten them into the shaft. The I.D. was way to small the hold the thill light, without drilling. Is there a different version of the GT nock?


----------



## msk565

*10 Stitch Press*

this is the bow press i made.most of the tubing was scrape that was laying around.the jack was from a transmission jack.the collars were a s-10 pickup hitch.no plans,just looked on the net at pictures.we have a metal band saw,so it was very easy to cut everything.my father in law did the welding.it is heavy though.the tubing is .250 wall thickness.don't have to worry about it moving around.i call it my "10 stitch press".cut a finger on it and had to get 10 stitches.


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## jer7440

Very nice press! Do you have some kind of a set screw to keep the sliding sections in place?


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## msk565

collars are drilled and tapped for a set bolt on the back side


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## jer7440

Just one more question, I promise. Are the "ears" that the moving arms hinge on, just welded to the top of the sliding tube. What thickness of material did you use for those "ears".


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## msk565

yes,just welded.ears are 1/8 inch plate.1/2 in rod that supports riser goes thru both sides of plate and is welded on back side.


----------



## el_vaquero

Do you know if that press can handle the new bows like the Switchback XT with really parallel limbs??

Thanks,
Tim


----------



## msk565

do not know.the lenght and adjustablity of it is similiar to some that are supposed too.dont have any friends that have a bow like that to try it. i am using it on a ultra mag.


----------



## yelk hunter

Don't have pics but can take and post if you need.

I bought an 'arrow squaring device' and hated changing from carbon to aluminum sides. Hmmm - my GT are .300 dia, 5/16 drill is 0.315. glue two short pieces of 2x4 together, put in drill press, drill hole. Sand back side of these and front side of another 2x4 so they meet square. Insert sandpaper between this 'sandwich' and use C clamps to hold together. 

I now use this to square the carbon and use the ASD for alum.

But - you could drill 2 holes and use different grit sandpaper under each.

Duh - wish I were smart before buying.

I have made the target rag bag, stand, bow press, arrow saw and other items off of this site.

Thanks guys - keep them coming!!


----------



## jer7440

yelk hunter said:


> Don't have pics but can take and post if you need.
> 
> I bought an 'arrow squaring device' and hated changing from carbon to aluminum sides. Hmmm - my GT are .300 dia, 5/16 drill is 0.315. glue two short pieces of 2x4 together, put in drill press, drill hole. Sand back side of these and front side of another 2x4 so they meet square. Insert sandpaper between this 'sandwich' and use C clamps to hold together.
> 
> I now use this to square the carbon and use the ASD for alum.
> 
> But - you could drill 2 holes and use different grit sandpaper under each.
> 
> Duh - wish I were smart before buying.
> 
> I have made the target rag bag, stand, bow press, arrow saw and other items off of this site.
> 
> Thanks guys - keep them coming!!


Pictures! Pictures! We want pictures! Pictures of all of it!

:embara: Please


----------



## huntaholic

jer7440 said:


> The GT's I was working with had the little screw in the middle to tighten them into the shaft. The I.D. was way to small the hold the thill light, without drilling. Is there a different version of the GT nock?


yeah, I bought my fiance some GT's and they had the little clear green nocks on them. Those worked great. I had some Camo hunters 5575's that had that little screw in them and I know which one's you're talking about.


----------



## yelk hunter

Arrow saw made from Harbour freight cut off saw, found on this site.


----------



## yelk hunter

Bag stuffed with rags, found on this site. I made up the stand out of 2" PVC and it can be made shorter (sections) so that the bag is just off the ground.


----------



## yelk hunter

Press made from sticky - Midlifecrisis


----------



## yelk hunter

After I bought the ASD, I made the 2x4 arrangement. See above post (about 7 or 8 up) as to how made.


----------



## gonehunting 45

*deer cart*

I thought I was just cleaning out my foldre. Didn't relize I deleted every attacment I posted. LOL


----------



## gonehunting 45

*deer cart*

another pic


----------



## jer7440

Awesome! Thanks for the pictures guys.:thumbs_up


----------



## BoDucker

Great ideas keep them coming! My buddy and me have made 16 cardboard targets so far. People at work think we have lost are minds taking all that cardboard. 48" wide by 16" deep by 36" tall. They are working great. Next going to try some of the lighted nocks. 

Only guestion I've got? When is this thread going to get a *STICKY*!!!!!!!!!!! :star:


----------



## gonehunting 45

*target*

I don't have a pic. I made one and it lasted for years. You need 4 2x4, 4 allthreads, 4 bolts and lock washers and large washers. Take your 2x4 and drll a hole in each so that the allthread fits. Take your cardborad and lay it flat on the 2x4. Once you have your cardborad as high as you like. Take the other 2x4 lay them on top with the allthreads through them. Puy large washer then lock washer then bolt and tighten. once you have it tight you can't put an arrow through it. Good luck. I have 2 other projects I'm working on right now. When I get them finished and they work I will post.....


----------



## Newhunter1

TTT for later


----------



## kbotta

*My home project*

Thought I'd add my .02 here  
I built this in about 2 mos. While not completley finished, it served it's purpose this hunting season. I have to finish the outside graphics, and some trim work, as well as add a few more electrical "do-dads", but you get the idea...
I wanted a "hardside" camper that would "fit" on my F150, and not kill my Gross vehicle weight limit. I made it so that it fit's my truck bed, with the gate up. Sleeps 4, but 2 adults and a child are perfect. Warm too! I had never built anything out of wood before (aluminum, steel, sure) got the plans from the internet and modified to suit my needs. I only had 1" to spare to get that thing ou tof the garage I built it in height wise...lol
Kevin


----------



## kbotta

*couple more...*

Here are a few more...

Oh yeah...TTT !


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## jer7440

Nice camper man! Any idea what you've go into it, cost wise?


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## kbotta

A little over 2 grand. but that is with camper jacks, class A seats, memory foam bed TV heater, etc...
Sure you could but a used one for that, but I needed a hardshell that would work on a 1/2 ton. ( and it's cool to say I built it

Kev


----------



## Newhunter1

dave5339 said:


> Bass Pro has them in stock at $3.19 apiece, (Cabelas is $2.99). I picked up two this morning. Going to have to play with them and make myself an illuminock.
> 
> Semper Fi


Cabelas is 3.99 a light now


----------



## TributeHunter09

DOES THIS THREAD EVER DIE?


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



bowhuntingkid13a said:


> DOES THIS THREAD EVER DIE?



Quote = ]DOES THIS THREAD EVER DIE?: =NOPE not as long as great mines come together :wink: 

I would like to see here, some home made battery lights that have been made for the hunters sights.

Later
Unk


----------



## Postone

*Try CarolinaFalls.com*



Newhunter1 said:


> Cabelas is 3.99 a light now



I purchased some replacement Lights from CarolinaFalls.com for 2.25 with the shrink tube.

They are thinner and easier to work with than the ones I got from Cabela's.
there was no need to drill a larger hole in the nock with these.

I think this is the best deal going because you only need 1 nock, the tube replaces cutting off the other nock.


----------



## A4BEST

I know that this is a thread for home made stuff and I have my shareof items made. But so many times I have found that I could have bought the item for a lot less grief and aggrivation. Along that line of thought I am showing a link for 12 Lumenok's for $79.00 with free shipping.

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-2006-Lumenok-Lighted-Nock-12-Pack-FREE-shipping_W0QQitemZ7217421160QQcategoryZ20842QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Jeff


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*

Hey guys I would like to see here, some home made battery lights that have been made for the hunters sights, or target sight.

Thanks Unk


----------



## Jerry/NJ

A4BEST said:


> I know that this is a thread for home made stuff and I have my shareof items made. But so many times I have found that I could have bought the item for a lot less grief and aggrivation..
> Jeff


Exactly why I stopped making my own!


----------



## bohunter52

*Another Deer Feeder*

For less that $5 I made and used this feeder to take a late season deer in Ohio.
The corn stays dry with this style of feeder and it holds 25 pound of shelled corn.
See if you can find it in the second picture which was taken from my stand.


----------



## First1n

*Thill Nite Brite brand Bobber Light replacements*

The Wal-Mart in my town has put all of its Thill Nite Brite brand Bobber Light replacements on the clearence rack in sporting goods for .50cents. You might check your local Wal-marts and see if they are doing the same.


----------



## venisonman

bohunter52 said:


> For less that $5 I made and used this feeder to take a late season deer in Ohio.
> The corn stays dry with this style of feeder and it holds 25 pound of shelled corn.
> See if you can find it in the second picture which was taken from my stand.


How is it made?


----------



## huntin_addict

I know that I'm coming into this thread late and I didn't read all of the posts, but I make my own mouth calls for turkeys and have successfully taken a couple of birds using them.


----------



## huntaholic

huntin_addict said:


> I know that I'm coming into this thread late and I didn't read all of the posts, but I make my own mouth calls for turkeys and have successfully taken a couple of birds using them.



do you have some pic's? I have tried making the pill bottle types but can't get them right for some reason.


----------



## mn5503

*trail cameras*

I build my on trail cameras, with Sony cameras and video units with Sony camcorders. Better than any store bought junk at a much lower price.

You can build them too!! My handle over there is, trophy5503

http://realdealhuntingchat.invisionzone.com

A direct link to my video unit. Still in black. Sent it to get a camo dip to match the IR array, should be back this week.

.http://realdealhuntingchat.invisionzone.com/index.php?showtopic=3661

Here's a small (fit in your hand) Sony s-40 cam. Whitetail Supply started the topic but I have a pic of one of my units a couple posts down.

http://realdealhuntingchat.invisionzone.com/index.php?showtopic=3511

Heres a couple units with my favorite cam, Sony p-32.

http://realdealhuntingchat.invisionzone.com/index.php?showtopic=3475&hl=

If you have ever been disappointed in a store bought trial cam or would just like to build a better unit check out this site. A lot of good information with a bunch of guys willing to help you along the way.


----------



## bohunter52

*Deer Feeder*

It's a 40" piece of 4" PVC pipe with an end cap on each end. Drill a 1 3/4" hole in one end and use PVC cement or sheet metal screws to fasten that end to the pipe. Leave the other end loose to add the corn. Raise it off the ground just enough to allow the corn to fall out. As the deer feed, more corn will fall down the pipe. Use bungee cords to secure it to a tree.
I have also saw these used late in the season as antler traps. Just add a section of fence in a circular fashion about 24" off the ground and wired around the tree.


----------



## huntin_addict

*Huntaholic.....*

Sorry, no pics, I make diaphram calls.


----------



## Mexican 3D

no exactly homemade, but im building this stabilizer. i have to sand it, drill it, and cut the pieces. i build it from a single aluminium block, so the 4 pieces are still attached together. ill put better pics when its done.

heres the stab still in the machine (i dont know the name, i think its called a lathe (sp) but i dont know the english name):










heres another shot. the left rod will be a tuner, and the right part is the end cap. it will have a flat end to stick a limb saver. 










heres a pic of the complete bar. i put some O rings to make it look nicer. the 2 parts that have the O rings in place will be, on the left, the base that attaches to the bow, and on the right, the end cap. the middle rods will be tuners.










any ideas to make it better?? thanx!


----------



## Mexican 3D

i finished it today, i just need to drill it to accept the arrows. here it is:

base: 










tuner










4 parts


----------



## Rangerhgm

*HomeMade Target Stand*

Target stand for my new Morrell Quick Stop made from 1 1/4" PVC. The bottom joint in the 4th picture below is not glued so the stand can be taken apart for transport or storage.
Measurements to out side of right angle joints:
30" H
25" W
32" L


completed stand









target attached to stand









pin to allow disassembly for storage









target mounted on stand









disassembled for storage


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



Rangerhgm said:


> Target stand for my new Morrell Quick Stop made from 1 1/4" PVC. The bottom joint in the 4th picture below is not glued so the stand can be taken apart for transport or storage.
> Measurements to out side of right angle joints:
> 30" H
> 25" W
> 32" L
> 
> 
> completed stand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> target attached to stand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pin to allow disassembly for storage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> target mounted on stand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> disassembled for storage


--------------
Hello
A real nice job
I liked the way you atched and placed the board on the bottom.

Later Unk


----------



## mdewitt71

Nice target holder, I like it.


----------



## fasst

Per Easton 94's reccomendation, lets stick this one for awhile. If you are interested in continually viewing it though, you should subscribe to it. It wont stay stuck forever :wink:


----------



## ESMO-Joe

*Removable yardage markers*

I posted this in the general forum a while back but here you go if you missed it.

I have a suggestion for your yardage markers that I have found to work great. I used to just have stakes in the ground that I would have to mow and trim around. I made some that are easy to remove, mow over and re-install. 
I made them from 1” dia. Pvc pipe. I cut two lengths for each stake, one eighteen inches long and the other ten inches long.
I glued a cap on one end of the eighteen inch piece and a butt-end connector to one end of the ten inch piece.
I then drove the ten inch piece into the ground up to the butt-end connector (after the glue dried) at each yardage marker. After that you just stick the long piece into the exposed end of the butt-end connector and there you go.
If it fits to snug just sand the end a little. I don’t even have to get off of the mower to pull them now. I do a drive by and pull them and after I mow over them I do another drive by and stick them back in and on I go. It doesn’t even slow down the mowing.


----------



## dreamweaver0930

*Saw blades*

Yelk Hunter and John Doe, I noticed that you used the Harbor Freight cut off saws for your arrows. Do you use it on carbon arrows? If so, do you use the blade that came with it or did you buy a different blade? If the latter, which blade? I really like both of your set ups and would like to make something similar. Thanks


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



ESMO-Joe said:


> I posted this in the general forum a while back but here you go if you missed it.
> 
> I have a suggestion for your yardage markers that I have found to work great. I used to just have stakes in the ground that I would have to mow and trim around. I made some that are easy to remove, mow over and re-install.
> I made them from 1” dia. Pvc pipe. I cut two lengths for each stake, one eighteen inches long and the other ten inches long.
> I glued a cap on one end of the eighteen inch piece and a butt-end connector to one end of the ten inch piece.
> I then drove the ten inch piece into the ground up to the butt-end connector (after the glue dried) at each yardage marker. After that you just stick the long piece into the exposed end of the butt-end connector and there you go.
> If it fits to snug just sand the end a little. I don’t even have to get off of the mower to pull them now. I do a drive by and pull them and after I mow over them I do another drive by and stick them back in and on I go. It doesn’t even slow down the mowing.


---------
Hello
I realy like your idea here.As soon as it warms up I will do the same.

Thanks for posting your idea  
Unk


----------



## danimal7802

i really like that target holder above.:beer: 

i used to always use vanilla as a scent killer...... i really did the trick for me. i used to dilute it with water and i thought it worked just as good as anything you buy.


----------



## J8 10-27

*Deer Cart*

I made a deer cart a few years ago for $17.00 and it works great. I use it for hauling deer, tree stands and climbing sticks. I started out with two lawnmower handles. I used all of one and the upper ½ of the other. I also used 2 large lawnmower wheels, 2 pieces of conduit, some thread-all, misc. nuts and washers, a steel tube and a cargo net. If you’re interested, here is what I did…

1. Use the thread-all and steel tube as an axle, the thread all will go inside the tube. It should be as wide as the inside of the lawnmower handle plus the width of each wheel and hardware.
2. Assemble the handles together. The longer one will end up being your handle. Put the two open ends together and install the axle between them.
3. Put your wheels onto the axle, you’ll need a large washer on both sides of the wheels to hold the axle in place.
4. Fold the handles apart to the desired angle and hold in place with a clamp.
5. Add support bars made from the conduit. You may need to flatten the both ends before attaching to the cart.
6. The support bars should be above the wheels and also act as sides to the cart.
7. Last step is to add some kind of net to support the load. I used a cargo net. The holes are about 6X6. I think that’s too big. I’ve had deer parts and climbing sticks slip through the holes. To attach the net I used small screws.

One neat thing I added was wing nuts to the support bars, that way the cart will fold down a little. Something else you may want to consider is adding grips perpendicular to the handle. I think it would make it more comfortable to pull. Some of my parts were salvaged from old lawnmowers from the County Clean-up Day. The only thing I paid for was the thread-all and hardware and that came to $17.00. Your local pro shop sells them for around $100. I can add some pictures if anyone is interested.


----------



## swamp

*horn release*

I was piddling around today. Had an old release. I took it apart to see what makes it work. I had some scraps from some old shed horns that I used for a rattle bag. Well I ended up with a deer horn release. I still have a little finish work to do, but it actually works pretty good. I'll try to post a pick.


----------



## First1n

swamp said:


> I was piddling around today. Had an old release. I took it apart to see what makes it work. I had some scraps from some old shed horns that I used for a rattle bag. Well I ended up with a deer horn release. I still have a little finish work to do, but it actually works pretty good. I'll try to post a pick.


Now that is cool.


----------



## flats1

WoW there sure is alot of good stuff on here. Does anybody know how to make your own bow vise?


----------



## Mexican 3D

flats1 said:


> WoW there sure is alot of good stuff on here. Does anybody know how to make your own bow vise?


i have been thinking about a vice, so far i just ahve the drawings and idea. ill post a pic when its finished.

good luck!!


----------



## flats1

Are you going to use Just bolts or are you going to weld it? Are you going to make it so you can level your bow out while you have it in the vise?


----------



## Mexican 3D

im going to weld it, and im planning on doing it with all the adjustments. thats what i would like, but i still need to plan the details.

good luck!!


----------



## araz2114

*Here goes*

Does being a Machinist let me qualify as "Homemade"? I make everything!! I usually copy stuff I see that I believe is overpriced or needs to be improved. Here is my vault before it was painted. It is now Caterpillar yellow. It is 30" x 30" x 72". It is massive! It has 10 individual 3/4" locking pins on the door. I bought the combination lock at a local locksmith and made everything else. It also has lights and a mechinism so you can get out if locked inside.


----------



## araz2114

*Here is my scope*

I make these scopes. They take a speciality archery 1 5/8" lens. I have been midifying these until I get the perfect scope. I may never get that as I like to tinker. I also make the attachment bracket. Nothing is stronger! I have made some pretty interesting "custom" scopes. I like the challenge. My newest one is extremely light and funky looking. I will see if I can get the camera out and take some pics.


----------



## araz2114

*ATV ramp*

This is one of my favourite projects. I was in teachers college and needed to blow off some steam so I built this. Notice that the ramp is being supported by the trailer hitch not the tailgate. This puts less pressure on your tailgate and makes for easy removal. It also extends my 6 foot box to close to 8 feet because the tailgate stays down. My ATV won't fit in my truck with the tailgate closed anyway. This thing is a real time saver when it comes to loading and unloading things. It is also easier to carry stuff into the box of my truck. We use it to transfer stuff from truck to truck. I use it when I do maintenance on my ATV. I just support the other end with 2 saw horses and then I don't have to bend down to work on the ATV. It makes washing it easier also.


----------



## araz2114

*ramp closed*

I forgot to mention that this ramp is 7 feet long and has 2 inch square mesh on it. It is real easy to see thru when driving with it up.


----------



## YBSLO

J 10-27

Show some pics of the home made deer cart, we would like to see!!!!!
Thanks!!!!!


----------



## First1n

*araz2114*

Man that is some cool stuff you made. Very good job brother.

Your name "araz2114" does that stand for Arkansas 21 to Arizona 14?


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



araz2114 said:


> I make these scopes. They take a speciality archery 1 5/8" lens. I have been midifying these until I get the perfect scope. I may never get that as I like to tinker. I also make the attachment bracket. Nothing is stronger! I have made some pretty interesting "custom" scopes. I like the challenge. My newest one is extremely light and funky looking. I will see if I can get the camera out and take some pics.


Nice scope.
I beleve the part that ataches to the bow ,looks to be round.
Could you show a view how it will atach to your front scope bracket.

Reason I ask if yours is round I have mine round
I have made several scopes.And iam now working on one with a light.Got tired of them button batteries and my billfold did to.So iam trying for Nicad batteries

Again a nice scope.Well made.
Unk


----------



## araz2114

Firstly, my handle comes from poking some light-hearted fun at my American friends. When they ask for arrows at a store it comes out as araz, like "I would like to purchase some araz for bowhunting". I have been shooting for 26 years and have been hunting with Easton 2114's for most of those years. Thus araz2114  

The scope bracket is rectangular. It has 2 slots in it and mounts to a sur-lok. I will post more pics later.

The other items that I have made are

Carbide arrow launcher
Treestands with built in bow holder
Tree steps
Stainless steel Stabilizer weights
Crank style Bow Press
Very Heavy Duty String Jig
Video camera Game timer and steel box (keeps the bears out)
Tree Pod to hold my other video camera while hunting
Target butt that compresses the "cardboard" 
Truck hitch hook
GPS holder for my truck
GPS holder for my ATV
Game Gambrel for hanging my harvest

I promise that I will post pics some other time. Can't find my camera right now:embara:


----------



## ftshooter

*Has any one tried these ..home made tree Steps .?*

I found this on the web ..and thought it was interesting ..go down a little on the page ..


http://www.bowhunting.net/thomasfrench/default.htm#dec14


----------



## J. Wesbrock

Homemade recurve, plains-style quiver and arrows. 










Another one of my homemade recurves, and a two-tone gray squirrel that got a little to close to my treestand one afternoon.










Homemade small game points for wood arrows.










I bought the blade, but made the handle from whitetail deer antler, osage and rawhide from a doe I killed a few years ago. The sheath I made from cow leather. This was a donation item for one of our state's bowhunting organizations.


----------



## Mexican 3D

heres my shop-made stabilizer. i just have to cut the arrows to the same size, and take off the vanes on one of them. i will make another one to use as a front stabilizer, and this one will be used as a back weight... =)


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



Mexican 3D said:


> heres my shop-made stabilizer. i just have to cut the arrows to the same size, and take off the vanes on one of them. i will make another one to use as a front stabilizer, and this one will be used as a back weight... =)


Hello
Real nice job.Looks real nice.
I know you are going to remove the vains.But vains on a stablizer might be a new trend  

Unk


----------



## jcmorgan31

*Stabilizer*

I wanted a 12" stabilizer for shooting outdoor 3D shoots in the hunter class. I couldnt see paying 40 or 50 dollars for one so I decided to try to make my own. By itself, it has no shock absorbing qualities, it is just a way to get some weight out front to stabilize my shot. To make this, I used some bondo, 3 cut shafts from a couple old arrows, 2 bolts with the standard threads, 4 or 5 nuts to fit the bolts, and 2 35mm film canisters. This thing has threads in the end to add weight, and if you wanted shock absorption you could put an "A" bomb in between the bow and stabilizer. If anyone wanted the step-by-step, I could put it on here.


----------



## Mexican 3D

Unk Bond said:


> Hello
> Real nice job.Looks real nice.
> I know you are going to remove the vains.But vains on a stablizer might be a new trend
> 
> Unk


haha, it would be the new thing in stabilization =p


here it is, i just cut the arrows and made an adjustable tuner. good luck!!


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



J. Wesbrock said:


> Homemade recurve, plains-style quiver and arrows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another one of my homemade recurves, and a two-tone gray squirrel that got a little to close to my treestand one afternoon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Homemade small game points for wood arrows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought the blade, but made the handle from whitetail deer antler, osage and rawhide from a doe I killed a few years ago. The sheath I made from cow leather. This was a donation item for one of our state's bowhunting organizations.


-----
Hello J
That is one fine looking bow you have built there.That has to be a great feeling to be able to acheive a bow of that quality. I shot a recurve for years.
It was a Wing Presentatation target and I shot a wing Presentation 2..

Now the picture of your bow and that tree sure came out in great detail.You must have one fine camera.

Again job well done,
Unk


----------



## broay73

This is GREAT stuff. Dose anyone have any more?


----------



## XP35

jcmorgan31 said:


> I wanted a 12" stabilizer for shooting outdoor 3D shoots in the hunter class. I couldnt see paying 40 or 50 dollars for one so I decided to try to make my own. By itself, it has no shock absorbing qualities, it is just a way to get some weight out front to stabilize my shot. To make this, I used some bondo, 3 cut shafts from a couple old arrows, 2 bolts with the standard threads, 4 or 5 nuts to fit the bolts, and 2 35mm film canisters. This thing has threads in the end to add weight, and if you wanted shock absorption you could put an "A" bomb in between the bow and stabilizer. If anyone wanted the step-by-step, I could put it on here.


I guess I'm not the only one........:wink: 

Try this for shock absorption......my newest one is like a dead-blow hammer. 








A 11 3/4" carbon one and a 28" aluminum one.


----------



## Misfire

Ok Gentleman.......in keeping with the spirit of the thread, we need material lists and step by step......please?????:wink: 

.


----------



## araz2114

I still am having difficulty getting my camera. I will post more pics and make dimensions available ASAP.


----------



## Turk Hunter

*Bow rack*

Here is my budies Home made bow rack He hangs the bow on Fallow deer sheds


----------



## GoinFullDraw06

ttt great post


----------



## J. Wesbrock

Unk Bond,



> Hello J
> That is one fine looking bow you have built there.That has to be a great feeling to be able to acheive a bow of that quality.


Thanks. It's a pretty cool feeling taking an animal with a homemade bow.



> I shot a recurve for years.
> It was a Wing Presentatation target and I shot a wing Presentation 2..


Well, you owned what some still consider one of the best recurves ever made--the Wing PII. Those bows were amazing.



> Now the picture of your bow and that tree sure came out in great detail.You must have one fine camera.


A Canon digital SLR and a sturdy tripod, which make a world of difference in photo quality.


----------



## Misfire

Yes Sir that is a BEAUTIFUL bow. You are a very talented individual and I'm envious. 

I tired my hand at a hickory self bow last summer, got to the tiller stage and quit. I'm hoping to regain interest one day and either finish or start another. 

.


----------



## Spreggy

Mr. Wesbrock, that is an outstanding bow. Is there a specific resource you would recommend for learning the craft of bowmaking?


----------



## flungonin

*scent dispersal*

I used paint balls a long time ago when they came out for scent dispersal. Dremal a hole in the paint ball. or use a drill 1/8th in max? I use hot Tap water and let sit for 2-3 min. Take out, dremal a hole in the paint ball, use a 1/8th drill,( max?), put ball upside down and drain. Then dry ball, either outside or with a fan. Once the inside of the ball is dry put in scent, gel, liquid or powder. Then seal hole with wax, store with hole upright.


----------



## lechwe

I just made a couple lighted nocks over the weekend. I am using them in 2315 xx75's. I can't seem to get them set up to turn on at the shot. Does anyone have any ideas on how to set this up with these particular arrows?


----------



## XP35

Here are instructions and parts list for a stabilizer:


2 coil spring helpers (or wood) for end pieces ($5)
enough carbon or alumnum shafts for the size you're building (free if they're old ones laying around)
A section of metal bar (I use sections of old cable guard bars) (another freebie)
2 Sims cable guard dampers (about $10)
1 5/16-24 bolt for attachment (length is dependent on thickness of end piece) (a few cents)
Epoxy (a few cents)


I have used both wood and rubber or the end pieces. I think the wood ends look pretty cool, but the rubber ones are quieter. The rubber ones started life as a coil spring helper from the auto-parts store! I cut them out with a hole-cutting saw on my drill press. 

Then, using a compass, I locate 3 lines radiating ou from the center hole on the end pieces. I then make a circle the size of the thick portion of the Sims cable guard dampers (7/8") and drill 3 holes intersecting the lines, keeping the holes JUST outside the 7/8" circle.

Using a large hole-punch or scissors put 3 notches around the edge of the thin portion of the cable guard dampers. These keep it in between the shafts. Dip the metal bar in alcohol and slip the dampers onto it.

At this point I put the bolt in the end. I insert the bolt into the center hole far enough to cover the threads and apply epoxy to the bolt's shaft and pound it in! It keeps the threads clean this way.

Now it's just a matter of assembling it. I test fit everything, then take it apart, epoxy the ends of the shafts, and reassemble. Make sure the damper goes in at this point, because installing it later is VERY hard to do!

That's it! I can build one in about a half hour. The cost is low and the performance is great. Have fun with it and even experiment with length. BTW, the damping device works as a tuner-sliding it forward or back will fine tune balance point.

Good luck!


----------



## LiteSpeed1

Great target stand by Unk Bond...I think I will make one tomorrow.


----------



## LiteSpeed1

Sorry about that. Credit should be to Rangerhgm.


----------



## affe22

TTT. Anyone know why this got unstickied?


----------



## araz2114

Wife found camera. I will be posting pics soon.


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



XP35 said:


> Here are instructions and parts list for a stabilizer:
> 
> 
> 2 coil spring helpers (or wood) for end pieces ($5)
> enough carbon or alumnum shafts for the size you're building (free if they're old ones laying around)
> A section of metal bar (I use sections of old cable guard bars) (another freebie)
> 2 Sims cable guard dampers (about $10)
> 1 5/16-24 bolt for attachment (length is dependent on thickness of end piece) (a few cents)
> Epoxy (a few cents)
> 
> 
> I have used both wood and rubber or the end pieces. I think the wood ends look pretty cool, but the rubber ones are quieter. The rubber ones started life as a coil spring helper from the auto-parts store! I cut them out with a hole-cutting saw on my drill press.
> 
> Then, using a compass, I locate 3 lines radiating ou from the center hole on the end pieces. I then make a circle the size of the thick portion of the Sims cable guard dampers (7/8") and drill 3 holes intersecting the lines, keeping the holes JUST outside the 7/8" circle.
> 
> Using a large hole-punch or scissors put 3 notches around the edge of the thin portion of the cable guard dampers. These keep it in between the shafts. Dip the metal bar in alcohol and slip the dampers onto it.
> 
> At this point I put the bolt in the end. I insert the bolt into the center hole far enough to cover the threads and apply epoxy to the bolt's shaft and pound it in! It keeps the threads clean this way.
> 
> Now it's just a matter of assembling it. I test fit everything, then take it apart, epoxy the ends of the shafts, and reassemble. Make sure the damper goes in at this point, because installing it later is VERY hard to do!
> 
> That's it! I can build one in about a half hour. The cost is low and the performance is great. Have fun with it and even experiment with length. BTW, the damping device works as a tuner-sliding it forward or back will fine tune balance point.
> 
> Good luck!


----
Hello
Read the instructions.Now could you share a picture with us.

Thanks
Unk


----------



## bud97tj

*Bow press*

Not the first to build one. Not even my plans I found them on this site though.

Turned out pretty nice if I do say so myself......:darkbeer:


----------



## J. Wesbrock

Spreggy,



> Mr. Wesbrock, that is an outstanding bow. Is there a specific resource you would recommend for learning the craft of bowmaking?


The instructional videos from www.binghamprojects.com are hard to beat.


----------



## Spreggy

Thank you! Great resource.


----------



## schwinger

thanks for all the great tips huntaholic


----------



## XP35

Unk Bond said:


> ----
> Hello
> Read the instructions.Now could you share a picture with us.
> 
> Thanks
> Unk


Just scroll up the page, Unk!


----------



## huntaholic

schwinger said:


> thanks for all the great tips huntaholic


No problem, that's what we're here for!


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



XP35 said:


> Just scroll up the page, Unk!



And so I did :wink: 

Thanks
Unk


----------



## Mexican 3D

i just finished my second stabilizer to use as a front rod =)


----------



## Meatco1

Mex 3-D:

You're doing very, very nice work there. I imagine a lot of folks would like to buy something that that. They certainly look richer than my Beiter does.

Good work!

Richard


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*

Like Richard said, very nice. I agree a job with design and well done.

Unk:darkbeer:


----------



## Mexican 3D

thanx! i just got back from shooting, and so far, so good. the bow feels steadier than my previous setup, which was a 30" rod and 2 5" doinkers as backweights. of course this can be due to having "something new", everybody know how good we shoot when we change something in our bows. 

the stabilizer i made is about 26" long, and a bit heavier than the 30" Cartel i was using, which can be seen on the picture inside the bowscase, and the side bar is about 10". unfortunately i can not weight them, since my arrow scale only goes up to 100 grams. the front part alone weights more than that. 

now im thinking on how to make stackable weights on the front end, and also different weight centers for the tuners.

thanx! :wink:


----------



## Dodgedude

*Mexican 3D*

Nice work on the stab set! I tried my hand at one that had plastic ends. Either I drilled the holes too small, or didnt mix my epoxy well enough because it fell right apart. 

Keep the good stuff coming!


----------



## gonehunting 45

Very simple to make. Fletching cover


----------



## Rangerhgm

*Assembly Instructions for Rangerhgm's PVC Target Stand*

I've had several requests for a materal list and instructions so here goes. You may want to print out the pictures above to refer to while assembling the stand.

I built this target stand to fit the Morrell Quickstop target and it fits snug in the stand from side to side so if you want it bigger to fit another target you will need to make adjustments on the measurements below. Also, in the pictures you'll see I used a couple of connectors and short pieces rather than a 21" piece to make the support that goes across the back of the target to keep it from sliding backwards. I made this piece last and didn't have any 21" pieces left so I had to improvise.

*Materials*

16 ½’ of 1 ¼” PVC (I recommend buying (2) 10' sections) 
(2) 1 ½” x ¼”U bolts (These hold the top of the target and the joint at the bottom of the stand (for disassembly). I cut them in half at the center of the U and then bent the curved (unthreaded end) in so it fit snuggly against the side of the PVC when inserted through the hole. This allows them to kind of lock themselves in place when you tighten the wing nut. You could use (4) 2” x ¼” bolts in place of these.
(4) ¼” wing nuts
(8) 90 degree 1 ¼” PVC elbows
(4) 1 ¼” PVC T joints
PVC cement
(1) piece of treated lumber, 28" L x 6" W x 3/4"

*Assembly*

*The Base*

The (2) front and back cross pieces are 21”
Each side consists of (2) 13" pieces connected with (1) T joint
Connect the corners with (4) elbows
Insert (1) 6” piece into the top of the T joint on each side
Glue all joints (make sure top of the T joints are perfectly vertical)

*The Uprights (side pieces that go up and over the target)*

Each side consists of (1) 20" piece connected to a T Joint
The cross piece is 21"
Connect the cross piece and the (2) uprights with (2) elbows
Without gluing, assemble the uprights and slide the T joints down over the 6” pieces extending out of the base (from step 4 above)
Make sure the back leg of the T joints are aligned perfectly with the base
Drill a ¼” hole through the bottom of the T joint and the 6” piece and fasten with bolt and wing nut. This allows the stand to be taken apart to store or transport
Glue all other joints

*The Back Support (goes around the back to keep the target from sliding backwards*

Each side consists of (1) 5” piece connected to the T joint on the upright
The cross piece is 21"
Connect the cross piece and the 5” pieces with (2) elbows
Glue all joints

*The Wooden Target Platform*

Lay the base on the floor and lay the wood on top of the T Joint
Position the board so it’s positioned evenly on each side over the T joint
Carefully, without moving it, trace around the PVC on the under side of the board
When you cut the circle in the board, cut on the outside of the line you traced. This allows just enough play to slide down over the top of the T joint
Note in the pictures that I added another piece of wood to the back of the platform. I made this just long enough to touch the floor so if you happen to shoot under the target this piece would stop the arrow from hitting the cross piece on the back of the base. This piece is strictly precautionary and not required.

*Mounting the Target*


With the stand completely assembled, slide the target into place
Mark where the grommets in the top ears of the target lay against the uprights
Drill a ¼” hole through each upright and secure with bolts and wing nuts.

That’s it, Good luck and enjoy. If you have any questions don't hesitate to PM me.


----------



## 6bloodychunks

*homemade bow pod*

heres a homemade bow pod/stand i made for 3d and hunting , i used an old motor mount made of hard rubber, drilled the holes for the pieces of old carbon arrows that i used for the legs .these are removable since they fit tight in the holes. , i just put inserts in the ends of the legs ,screw in field points ,and if youre on uneven ground just push one side into the ground more.. it works great!!!!!!!!!!


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## 6bloodychunks

1 more pic


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## XP35

Pretty cool, 6BC. One question...how is attached? Does it come off quick and quiet? It looks ideal for turkey hunting.

And that's a VERY nice stabilizer setup, Mexican 3D. You should be proud, it's looks like very nice work.


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## 6bloodychunks

the small rubber piece is just held in place my the stab ,and the legs are just a tight press fit ,very easy to take apart to put in a case. plus im going to put sims cable guard dampeners on the ends of the legs to cancel some extra vibration


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## XP35

Thanks, Chunks! I'm thinking that would work well in a turkey blind.


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## 6bloodychunks

thats what im going to use it for first ! then ill be using it for deer also,since i hunt deer from the ground , i used it at a 3d shoot yesterday and it worked great. XP35,if i make another , ill send ya one ,just use a couple equal length pieces of carbon arrow cut so it stands straight! i see it this way zero cost is good!!!


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## mainewriter

there' a hunting dvd from maine that has a section on how to make the lighted nocks. This version has the light turn on at the shot. It's a good deal because you get the video plus a step by step instruction on how to make the nocks. Here's the link to their website. It's on the deer video.
http://www.ntovideo.com/team.htm


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## mainewriter

there' a hunting dvd from maine that has a section on how to make the lighted nocks. This version has the light turn on at the shot. It's a good deal because you get the video plus a step by step instruction on how to make the nocks. Here's the link to their website. It's on the deer video.
http://www.ntovideo.com/team.htm


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## practice-more

*bow press*

Here is a pict of an X-Press I built over spring break. Please excuse the cluttered background and the fact it is not painted yet.
I think I have around $100 in it righ now, and it works great.
I got most of the dimensions off of an X-press my buddy bought.


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## huntinguide

crackshot said:


> huntaholic,
> Post the pans for your homemade nocks. Seems like a good idea to me.


I make my own glo nocks they cost about 2 bucks a piece. i think they glo better that burt coyotes


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## 6bloodychunks

*small change to my pod/stand*

i modified my pod stand , i was thinking about putting some kind of vibration dampeners on the legs while i was walking through wal-mart,and i happened across these practise golf balls that are made of hard foam rubber so i figured for 88 cents why not try them? i also picked up some 3/4 inch washers that i put onto field points and screwed onto the inserts on the legs to keep the legs from sinking into soft ground. but im going to get some sims cable rod dampeners to put on the legs to cancel vibration even more, but these foam balls seem to work better than nothing on the legs. just thought i would show them off, they look pretty cool imho


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## 6bloodychunks

heres a better pic of the ends of the legs


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## Drog

practice-more said:


> Here is a pict of an X-Press I built over spring break. Please excuse the cluttered background and the fact it is not painted yet.
> I think I have around $100 in it righ now, and it works great.
> I got most of the dimensions off of an X-press my buddy bought.


Looks Great. Can you share plans/details on construction??


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## bowhunter2117

ozhuntsman said:


> here is my set up. i made these things: stabilizer, hip quiver,
> 2 pce mounting brackets for quiver,
> limb shoks (front of pockets),
> rear cross hair and mount bracket,
> laser mount bracket(on stabilizer),
> i used T6061 alloy for the metal stuff and i found this cool orange rubber in the hardware store. i have tried everything for silenc and in dead calm you cannot hear this bow at 5 yards. my hunting buddy says he only hears the arrow as it speeds away, if anything. i have also fitted a small sleeve inside my release so as to quiet the trigger. this works well as i barely hear it now. the bow to shoot has ZERO vibration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i can post how to if any1 is interested :thumbs_up


What and how did you make the limb dampners?


----------



## bowhunter2117

*sts plans*

Anyone have plans with dimensions for an sts front mount to fit a Hoyt bow. Thanks mike


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## Unk Bond

*Reply*

Hello
You have been very buisy I see :wink: 

Job well done
Unk


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## ftshooter

*Bowhunter2117 ???*

WHAT IS THE RUBBER NORMAL USED FOR ..soory, or what would a guy ask for ? thanks ..


----------



## XP35

*Kinda' homemade target stand.....*

Now, before everyone breaks out their ******* jokes, and they wouldn't be 100% unwarranted, here is a stand I've been using.

It was a nice day and the snow was gone so I decided to clean my yard up. This Jeep rollbar had been sitting around since last fall. I thought it was about the right size, so with a little clothes line wire I hung my target on it. Perfect fit, with about 2-3" of clearance to let it swing.

So, guys, should I paint it brown like a deer or camo? 










NOW you can break out the ******* jokes....I can take it!


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## kbotta

Camo of course! :wink:


----------



## bowhunter2117

ftshooter said:


> WHAT IS THE RUBBER NORMAL USED FOR ..soory, or what would a guy ask for ? thanks ..


What and how did you make the limb dampners?
That is what I was asking the man who posted the pics on page 7 of this thread


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



bowhunter2117 said:


> Anyone have plans with dimensions for an sts front mount to fit a Hoyt bow. Thanks mike


--------
Hello
Here is a front STS quick disconect I made so I could remove my stableliser.
Haven't seen your bow.But it might work on your bow.
All I done here to make the quick disconect. Was to weld the bar to a old disconect I had
Unk


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## Spreggy

> NOW you can break out the ******* jokes....I can take it!


Well I like the stand, so I won't say nothin. But if your next picture is of a target wedged into the open hole of an old clothes drier on a porch, I won't be able to hold myself back.:wink:


----------



## Midlife Crisis

XP35 said:


> NOW you can break out the ******* jokes....I can take it!


So what are you planning for all that empty space in the livingroom, now?:wink:


----------



## Tenspot

My arrow saw..... About $18 and does THE trick on carbon.

I'll post a custom carbon Stabilizer after I get pics, just made it.


----------



## XP35

Midlife Crisis said:


> So what are you planning for all that empty space in the livingroom, now?:wink:


I got a 18" diameter log about 8' long I'm wedging between the floor and ceiling to hang my climber on!  I wanna' watch huntin' shows with my bow on my lap in full camo, all while practicing my rattlin' and gruntin'.:wink: It IS pretty comfy.


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



XP35 said:


> I got a 18" diameter log about 8' long I'm wedging between the floor and ceiling to hang my climber on!  I wanna' watch huntin' shows with my bow on my lap in full camo, all while practicing my rattlin' and gruntin'.:wink: It IS pretty comfy.


-------
Hes got his act together, for sure :wink: 

That just done old Unks heart good,all the way down to my toes.Thay was funny now. 

Unk


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## farmdude

i made a mess once


----------



## ashx2

mainewriter said:


> there' a hunting dvd from maine that has a section on how to make the lighted nocks. This version has the light turn on at the shot. It's a good deal because you get the video plus a step by step instruction on how to make the nocks. Here's the link to their website. It's on the deer video.
> http://www.ntovideo.com/team.htm



You can find the same thing right here in this thread. It's back toward the first couple of pages though. It has pics and if I remember correctly, there's at least one video footage of it in use on a 3d target.

Greg


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## 6bloodychunks

i have video of my own homade nocks , i make them for all my friends, as easy as can be to make!!!


----------



## gonehunting 45

*deer cart*

and it worked LOL


----------



## gonehunting 45

one more


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## gonehunting 45

last one


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## Bowhunter20

XP35 said:


> Now, before everyone breaks out their ******* jokes, and they wouldn't be 100% unwarranted, here is a stand I've been using.
> 
> It was a nice day and the snow was gone so I decided to clean my yard up. This Jeep rollbar had been sitting around since last fall. I thought it was about the right size, so with a little clothes line wire I hung my target on it. Perfect fit, with about 2-3" of clearance to let it swing.
> 
> So, guys, should I paint it brown like a deer or camo?
> 
> View attachment 138758
> 
> 
> 
> NOW you can break out the ******* jokes....I can take it!


That's not bad...We use a hammock stand for our bag target. It works great, but my sister gets pissed because she can never use her hammock


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## ctbowhunter

bowhunter2117, like your idea fore the limb silencers. I'd like to try them. My question is does the orange rubber have a name. Don't know if I can find the stuff here in CT. 

Thanks
ctbowhunter


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## bowhunter2117

The limb savers are not my idea they belong to ozhuntsman 
The original post on page 7 of this thread. I pmd him to find out what material he used to make them but no response as of yet.


----------



## araz2114

*Gambrel*

I have made several of these. I like this one the best. I use 1 inch by 3/16 hot rolled steel. I cut out a "V" and bend the gambrel to the shape I want then I simply weld it solid. Sure works better than a hockey stick with duct tape on it....especially for big Canadian whitetails


----------



## araz2114

*Gambrel*

I have made several of these. I like this one the best. I use 1 inch by 3/16 hot rolled steel. I cut out a "V" and bend the gambrel to the shape I want then I simply weld it solid. Sure works better than a hockey stick with duct tape on it....especially for big Canadian whitetails


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## araz2114

*Treepod*

This was a simple project. I used 3/8" X 1" aluminum. The bracket for the tree is 4 inch aluminum channel about 6 inches long. I use plastic washers between the arms. The arms are shorter as they extend so they fold up completely. I use loctite and locking washers on 1/4"-20 Stainless Steel bolts to make it solidly adjustable. The buckle is a cam-over-center buckle. It is a number 904 Kenedyne and I paint it flat black. Use what you want as long as it will hold 2" seat belt material. The camera mount is a "window" mount that is made for an automobile window. These are easily available at camera shops or outdoor stores for spotting scopes. This bracket is rock solid and very adjustable. Either paint it camo or use camo duct tape to conceal it. Not much better than videoing your hunts to share with your friends. 
PS don't let your wife find out that you camo'd her video camera


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## araz2114

*More Treepod*

Here is the business end of my Treepod.


----------



## araz2114

*Portable GPS bracket*

This is just a steel piece of round steel turned to the diameter of a pop can and short enought to fit into a drink holder of my vehicles. I mounted the GPS bracket to the top of it. It holds it solid and is extremly easy to move from vehicle to vehicle. You can use a wooden block if you want. Make sure you don't make it too heavy for your drink holder. If it is too heavy just bore out the center until it is the right weight. I also put a rag or napkin in the cup holder so it doesn't rattle or squeak.


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## araz2114

*GPS again*

Next picture.


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## araz2114

*GPS for ATV*

This is a GPS mount that I make for my ATV. I looked at the ones that are available and mount to the handle bars but I thought they were overpriced and poor quality. It mounts easily to the mirror mounting hole. It is a 10 mm thread. I couldn't find a 10mm bolt with the correct thread pitch and I don't have a metric lathe, so I made a 10mm bolt with 20 threads per inch. Weird huh? It works great! I did find a nut that was the correct pitch. I use the nut to jam the bolt and to hold the mount in place. Man I love making things for my use.


----------



## araz2114

*ATV Mount*

Another pic


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## araz2114

*Tree stand*

This has been our most thought out project to date. It is ever evolving. We hope that it is as close to perfect as possible. The stand was created because of 2 things. 
Firstly, hanging a tree stand is a pain in the butt. We have all balanced a heavy tree stand while trying to use our short arms to reach around and get the chain or strap or rope. The stand can slip or fall. Even though we use a safety harness the job is still awkward. Imagine how easy it would be to mount a 1.5 lb bracket using a seatbelt strap. This doesn't make my arms any longer but it is easier to balance while struggling. Now all you have to do is pull up the stand by the rope that is attached to it and your belt. Slide it into the bracket and climb in!

Secondly, stand theft is a major concern. These aliens represents the lowest form of scum life on the planet. With this stand syatem you can take the stand with you without making a lot of noise. The bracket can stay in the tree until the next time you need to use it. These brackets are cheap....maybe $10 canadian  Put up a few brackets and tree steps and only build 1 stand. They are light and set up very easily. 

I hope that the next series of pics outline the basic idea of the stand. The stands are 24" x 24". The new batch of stands that I am making are 30" x 24". The mesh is 1 x1 steel mesh that is used for reinforcing concrete. The new batch is 2 x 2 mesh for lighter weight. Make the seat hieght what ever you want. Make sure it is not too tall! I use stainless cable that I swedge to the right length. I put the cable right around the frame so I don't have to worry about any bolts. Use a proper swedging tool! Do not use vicegrips or a vice! You should be able to rent one from an industrial rental place. 

I hope you enjoy the pics. If you have any questions please let me know.


----------



## araz2114

*tree stand*

bracket


----------



## araz2114

*close up*

close up of cam-over-center buckle. Note the hole on the right side that we put a pin in for safety.


----------



## araz2114

*Bracket*

Close up of bracket. The strap is attached with 1/4" bolts with large thick hardened washers. The seat belt strap is rated at 6000lbs!


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## araz2114

*more pics*

The stand is made from 3/4" x3/4" steel tubing. I believe it is .060" to .080" thick wall. The bracket is made from 1/4" hot rolled with 1" x 1" x .100 wall square tube. This wall thickness allows the stand to fit in the bracket nicely.


----------



## araz2114

*Tree stand*

The stand in the bracket.


----------



## araz2114

*cable mount*

Note the the cable is thru the tubing. It is also properly swedged. I also use heat shrink over the swedge to prevent cuts.


----------



## araz2114

*stand*

Whew this takes a long time on dial up


----------



## araz2114

*Tree steps*

These tree steps are made out of 1 x 1 x .100. This wall thickness is important because you need the fit 3/4" tube into it. They are 4 feet long and the steps are 12 inches apart. I use 4 inch angle iron cut 1 inch long for the feet to hold it away from the tree. I use 1 inch strap with cam buckles to attach them to the tree. The steps are 6 inches long and are angles at 10 degrees. I also put a 1/4" hole on the bottom of the steps near the upright so that water can drain out.

Enjoy!


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## araz2114

*close up of tree step*

The end piece of 3/4" is 6 inches long and I plug weld it behind the last step. Use at least 6 feet of strap.


----------



## araz2114

ttt Someone must have more stuff


----------



## Elanus axillaris

*home made press*

check this thread for more info - http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=313331


----------



## Elanus axillaris

*here is another*

bow pressed


----------



## practice-more

*Adjustment*

WOW, nice job.
It looks like it is very well built.
Can you adjust it for different lenght parallel limb bows.
I studied the picts and did not see anything, but maybe there is something they do not show.


----------



## BHshooter

Some good posts here guys.

If Im not hunting I do an insane amount of hiking. Scouting, taking photos, looking for shed antlers or simply to see how many ticks I attract I feel a good Hiking stick is a must. I wanted to incorporate antlers into my newest hiking stick but couldnt bring myself to cut up any sheds. I ended up making a mold of 2 antlers I felt would work good. Then I cast with a plastic resin then painted them. After that just mounted them at the ends of my new stick and wrapped up the seams.


----------



## Elanus axillaris

practice-more said:


> WOW, nice job.
> It looks like it is very well built.
> Can you adjust it for different lenght parallel limb bows.
> I studied the picts and did not see anything, but maybe there is something they do not show.


check this thread for some more info - http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=313331. ]
I got myself a cheep secondhand target XL the other day and am now modifying the press to accomidate it (I am probably going to add a sliding ajustment to the mainframe behind the limb contact points).


----------



## araz2114

What is with the winch at the bottom? I see a caribiner also.


----------



## Elanus axillaris

araz2114 said:


> What is with the winch at the bottom? I see a caribiner also.


all the info is in this thread - http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=313331
I use it for conventional limb bows, the trykon in this pic is not being pressed - demonstration purposes only.:wink:


----------



## BEARCOUNTRY

ttt


----------



## Dodgedude

Nice work on the bowpress. I need to get to work on mine.

TTT


----------



## freeman72

Here's a picture of an old buck vangaurd I just finished rebuilding. It started out as a rubber handled gut hook model. The rubber dried out and the handle got loose, so I replaced it with elk antler, and got rid of the rediculous "gut hook" while I was at it.


----------



## adjare87

hey araz2114, how much do both the stand and sticks weigh, how much did it cost to build?


----------



## araz2114

adjare87, the stands weigh about 17-18 lbs. with the brackets. The brackets are about 2 lbs each. I just put them up where I need them and carry the stand in to each spot. This keeps them safe from being stolen. The sticks are 10 lbs each 4 ft. section. I find the sticks a bit heavy as I usually use 4 sections. That is 40 lbs. We usually use them when we are bear hunting so we use our ATV's to carry them most of the way. You could eliminate every other step, but I find the 2 steps handy if you need to stand and install a stand.
I don't remember what the stands or steps cost. For the steps you need 8 feet of 1 inch by .100" wall square tube for each section. You also need about 6 inches of 3/4 inch tube. This can be leftovers from the stands.

The stands need 15 to 16 feet of 3/4 inch by .065" square tube. It also needs 24" by 24" of expanded mesh or welded 1/8" by 2 inch square mesh. For the buckle you also need a "Kenedyne 905" cam-over-centre buckle. These can be purchased anywhere that tarps are made. You could also get them from most industrial suppliers. The bracked also needs a piece of 1/4' by 2" by 3" for the strap to be bolted to. You need at least 6 feet of seatbelt strap...again available at a place that makes or repairs tarps. 

Any steel store can give you the weight of these materials by the foot. That is how they sell metal....by the pound.

Any other questions? I am not afraid to help anyone that wants help.


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



freeman72 said:


> Here's a picture of an old buck vangaurd I just finished rebuilding. It started out as a rubber handled gut hook model. The rubber dried out and the handle got loose, so I replaced it with elk antler, and got rid of the rediculous "gut hook" while I was at it.



-------
Hello freeman72
That turned out real nice.
a JOB WELL DONE.
Unk


----------



## LiteSpeed1

BHshooter-That walking stick is made from Diamond Willow..... right?


----------



## Rembrandt1

Homemade practice range at our farm/hunting lodge. Two inch diameter steel pipe, bent and set in concrete to hold bag targets. Yardage markers are made with landscaping bricks, numbers cut in with carbide dremel bit. Wanted something the lawn mower could go over.


----------



## Bowkaddy Guy

*Homemade bow rack*

Over 10 years ago, I welded up a metal bow rack for the bed of my pickup. Got so much positive reaction by fellow bowhunters about it that I decided to spend a bunch of money and got it spruced up a bit. Has turned into a multi-purpose bow rack for trucks, quads, walls, workbenches, boats, etc.


----------



## Pierre Tessier

OMG GUYS.!!!!:darkbeer: YOur inventions blow my mind away!!! Like seriously.I really like the vault as i think they are truly overpriced! Firearm storage is important, but way too expensive and some don't store there guns properly.Making a vault is pure genious! And it nice too!!! Man of your inventions suprised me.Keep posting them please.I ahve a few of my own.Ill try to get pics and post them!!:jaw:


----------



## oldpost

*Home made nocks*

I made a couple of the nocks using the bobber light. Actually works fine but after I turned the light on, I couldn't get it to turn off and broke a couple trying to pull the lighted end away from the battery part. Any suggestions?


----------



## 6bloodychunks

oldpost said:


> I made a couple of the nocks using the bobber light. Actually works fine but after I turned the light on, I couldn't get it to turn off and broke a couple trying to pull the lighted end away from the battery part. Any suggestions?


if you just wiggle it carefuly while pulling on it ,it will turn off , did you use glue to attach the light into the nock? if so maybe you used too much glue


----------



## AR Archer

home brew 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I had this posted in the general forum, but found this thread and moved it to here.
Can you guys take one more homemade project? Here is a picture of a press that I just finished. It was a lot of work but worth the effort. Thanks to those of you who answered my questions.

AR Archer
Attached Images


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## AR Archer

I guess the picture didn't copy. I will try again later.

AR Archer


----------



## Ne_Archer

araz2114, Do those stands make much noise while getting into/out of, or just while sitting in the stand with the metal on metal contact parts?


----------



## araz2114

NE archer,Zero Noise!!! I can't tollerate any noise what so ever. The stands have plastic washers between every pivot point. I use plastic not teflon... no difference in noise but lots cheaper. I also use lock nuts so the bolts stay at the tension that I set them at. If there is noise I would say it is when you place the stand into the bracket but this is VERY minimal. I hope that I speak for most bowhunters that noise is my number one concern.

Any other questions please just ask.


----------



## AR Archer

*homemade*

Let's see if it works this time.


----------



## Elanus axillaris

*quiver mount*

check this thread - http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=331369


----------



## huntforfoodeer

to the top


----------



## huntnhammer

I'm gonna have to try those nocks, Thanks for the idea.


----------



## ashx2

ttt


----------



## XP35

Bump. Great thread!


----------



## CoolhandLuke




----------



## meanv2

My String Suppressor


----------



## rdneckhntr

I think this thing need to be a sticky...


----------



## LiteSpeed1

I posted previously to this thread about how I attached wheelchair wheels to my ladderstand. Someone asked me to post pictures, but not being the sharpest spoon in the drawer, I needed help from my better half. Anyways, here's the pics. First just shows how I mounted the axle brackets and the second shows with the wheels on.


----------



## Beagle

*Homemade Target*

This has been around for a long time but some of you may not have tried it. Buy a 2x6 or use some scrap. Make a box the width and height you want the target to be. The depth of the target is the width of the 2x6(6 inches). Put some type of corner braces on your box. For the top, rip a 2x4 or 2x6 and screw a piece across the front of the two uprights and a piece across the back. This leaves the top essentially open but is still braced and will hold together. Now stretch chicken wire(coated is best) around it and staple it alot to keep it tight, but don't put it across the top, this has to be open. Now clean out your drawers and closets and put any kind of material, blankets, old clothes, shirts, socks, etc.., down into the target and keep stuffing it til it gets to the top. Put a piece of cardboard on the front and start shooting. This will stop most broadheads as well, but I have had a couple punch thru the back because of a weak area. If you dull a broadhead first to use for a practice head, it will stop it. Target tips are no problem. They pull out with ease. If you don't put cardboard on the front, most will just fall to the ground. Keep it dry and it will last forever.If your chicken wire gets shot up bad, just replace it. It may scar carbon arrows, don't know, but it has no affect on aluminum.


----------



## bpj280

*Feeder*

Here is my homemade protein feeder.


----------



## araz2114

beagle, you can use plastic chicken wire. I would double it up though.


----------



## Beagle

*yes*

I have used it and you can also use that orange erosion fencing. Works real good. I have even stapled a piece of carpet across the back to help prevent pass-thrus with broadheads and practice blades.Doesn't happen much though, the key is keeping it packed tight.


----------



## Beagle

*Question a little off-topic*

Pertaining to Lumenoks--I think I read somewhere that if you have aluminum arrows with tapered and swedged nock ends such as XX75 2213's, and you want to install Lumenoks--you can cut off the tapered end and install uni-bushings, then you can install Lumenocks and use uni-noks. Is this correct?


----------



## Beagle

*Bow Light*

I made a bow light out of one of the small mag-lites that I could turn on and off at full draw(great for varmint shooting, don't think its legal for deer--hmmmm)). I drilled a small hole in the rear end of the light. I inserted some small two-wire molded wire thru the hole. Attach one end of the wire to the light case on the rear cap with a small screw and pilot hole. The other end, I ran thru the small spring of the cap, then thru a small piece of rubber cut round, the size of the light barrel. Strip off some of the insulation and wrap it around in a small coil. Screw on the cap and the stripped end is touching the end of the battery, but not the spring, because of the rubber insulator. Now go to the other end of your two wire length. Cut it so you have two ends. I stuck a piece of velcro to my riser, easily reached by my ring finger when I'm holding the riser. I took a limit switch(likes on an automatic gate controller, any momentary switch would work), and hooked the two wire ends to the common and normally open terminals of the switch. I stuck the "hook" side of a piece of velcro to the side of the switch and stuck the switch to the velcro on the riser. By touching the little actuating lever on the switch, you can turn the light on. Then I got two of those velcro ties and strapped the light to my stabilizer very tight. It lights up the sight picture well enough to see sight pins without fiber-optics or sight lights. Easily removed because everythings velcro-ed. I used the 2-AA size maglite. Its also handy when walking in the dark and carrying your bow. Your bow and light are in the same hand and you can flick it on and off as needed.I will try and get a pic.


----------



## ashx2

*Bow Light*

Beagle, I'd sure be interested in seeing some pics of that bow light you fixed up.

Greg


----------



## Beagle

*Stands*

I've made several climbers, mostly patterned after an old Amacker model. The one that had a spike welded on each side of the "V" bar that went against the tree.I trusted those stands more than any I've been in. I still have one factory model. I gave one to a huntin buddy and two have been stolen. I'm really wanting to come up with a theft-proof device for stands. Seems to me that the more trouble you put the thieves through, the more they want to destroy your property, even to the point that they can't use it anyway. I've thought of booby-trapping them. Don't want to killem, just hurt them severely.


----------



## Beagle

*Light*

I'll dig it out of my huntin bag and see if i can post it in the next day or two--I only have a web-digital so the pic quality won't be too great.


----------



## XP35

There may be instructions for this is in this thread.......I have not read every single post in it yet. It's getting to be a HUGE thread! But here goes anyway...

Does anyone make their own homemade bag-style targets? I just made two, one for me and one for my buddy. They work great....as good as my Morrell bag (and I love that target). 

To build one I use a plastic feed bag (burlap will work, too), a couple shredded old sleeping bags or comforters (but many materials will work, I just noticed Morrell bags are filled with the same kind of material), a contractor grade garbage bag and cable ties. 

I start by putting a "ball" of dead leaves into the corner of the bag (you could also use a rock, rubber ball or whatever to keep the rope from slipping off). I twist the bag around the "ball" and tie a length of rope onto it. The "ball" keeps the rope from ever slipping off and it can be hung easily. Easier than putting in grommets.:wink: 

I then put all the stuffing material into the garbage bag. I even suck the air out after packing it down.....with a vacuum cleaner! I duct tape it shut and get into a rough form. Then I slip it into the feed bag and use the cable ties/zip ties to close the bottom. Then I usually trim the extra bag material and stitch it shut with a sewing tool I have.

Then either draw spots on it or pin a paper target to it. They really work great!! The cost was $.40 per bag, a few cents for the garbage bag, a few cents for the ties and 20 minutes of my time. All in all, a cost of under ONE DOLLAR!! Compare that to $40 and up for a decent bag target and it saves enough money to buy a few arrows and/or some broadheads!

Pics of the front, back and the "ball" of leaves I used in place of a grommet.


----------



## Beagle

*Not Really Homemade*

I just got some of that fancy camo stick-on felt to use on my bows and I was in Wally World the other day looking for some cork to put in the limb pockets of my recurve. I happened to see large sheets of sticky-backed felt in several colors. No reason why this wouldn't work just as well as the fancy stuff for sight windows, limb tips, etc.... By the way--I found a roll of cork in the office supply area. The felt was in the crafts section.


----------



## Beagle

*Good Info.*

I think all this stuff should be put in a book and all the contributors get royalties.


----------



## J8 10-27

This is the bow light I use. It’s good for varmints, navigating and hmmmm. The light is a StreamLight M3 tac light. The light produces about 65 lumens +/-. It’s mounted on a weaver mount so you can slide it on and off, like a tactical pistol. I made the bracket from scrap metal and added two Limb Savers to it. It’s attached to the stabilizer mount. It makes a little vibration when the light is mounted, but w/o the light the bracket and mount are silent. The light has a toggle switch; one way is momentary on. The other is locked on. I put a small piece of adhesive sandpaper on the switch for better grip. The switch can be easily reached by my support hand index finger. The bracket can be bent so the light is aimed at the target. The light can be focused from beam to flood. I added a Butler Creek lens cover so there can’t be a light AD. Also, the Butler Creek has tabs on the sides that provide a great reference point for the beam focus. Everything together was about $130.


----------



## redneckarcher29

*All of these ideas are great*

Great job guys


----------



## nicholal

Man this thread is awsome!!.......keep the ideas coming guys and gals

AL


----------



## Hunter Bob

*archery dartboard*

My kids and I like to play archery darts.


----------



## mdewitt71

Hunter Bob said:


> My kids and I like to play archery darts.


You know, one day I was glancing at my dart board in the garage, thinking about that....Cool.


----------



## johndeer

Guys, we have some AWESOME talent on this site! Keep up the good work and thank you for sharing.


----------



## buckmark23

Whitefeather said:


> I read this thread...shut the computer down and went straight to Wal Mart for the lighted bobber replacements. I can't wait to try them out tomorrow after work. :thumbs_up
> 
> JP


Yes, they do work!


----------



## buckmark23

87Missouri said:


> I went to basspro today and picked up two of the thill bobber lights and got home to find that they were too big to fit into the Axis nocks.... :sad: , bummer! However, I made two light up nocks for my Super Carbons and shot them...didn't affect arrow flight or impact point whatsoever and was cool to watch.


They do work on Axis. I can not seem to post the picture but you have to be persist when drilling and after you insert the nock take a razor blade and srape the little bumps on the nocks to help it lide into the arrow. Mine works great.


----------



## huntaholic

Hunter Bob said:


> My kids and I like to play archery darts.



that looks like a blast!!!


----------



## Hunter Bob

*shooting stand*

Kids learned a few good lessons on this project and we had fun. Still not completed. Needs guard rails and more crossbracesses. 8'H x6'L 3'W two shooters can tune up for deer at one time. Hope no body recks it.:wink:


----------



## fmb

Just made some of these lighted nocks, cant wait to shoot em




bumpage


----------



## BigDeer

Hunter Bob said:


> My kids and I like to play archery darts.


That is awesome!


----------



## perchjerker

*My contribution,stand bag*

I like to keep several items(pull up rope,screw in bow hooks) at ea loc on stand, and on ea climber.So I have a small bag I attach to ea stand. Everyone has old camo pants that either are too small or have holes.I prefer the pairs that come with strings thru the bottoms that enable you to tie them shut.I cut around 12" off ea leg.I then put a longer string thru the enclosed part at rhe bottom.You can either fold and sew the cut end or use hot glue.I then take a small cam strap and sew it to the bag.It is used to attach the bag to the stand.Pretty simple project that is very useful.


----------



## perchjerker

ttt


----------



## PSEhntr

Here are a couple of antelope decoys I made for this season. Wish me luck.


----------



## Huaco

*Ttt*

Ttt


----------



## jersey hunter

bump


----------



## J8 10-27

*Stabilizer light / bracket*

Pic's for ashx2


----------



## PatriotDually

That light is awesome, you could market that!


----------



## Luckybuck1

*bump*

Ttt


----------



## Brushy Branch

great ides guys keep em coming
got a lot of things here i want to try
brushybranch


----------



## teambringit1

ttt for a great thread.


----------



## mt1961

Guys/Gals, I've enjoyed reading this thread and I've got a lot of new ideas from you all. I'm the type that like to make things if saves money or better suits my needs than what I can buy. I love the lighted nocks with the thill light. For your ideas, here's a few of mine that might be of worth to someone. Click the images for a larger view!!

1. *Arrow cut-off saw*. I made this using a saw from Harbor Freight. I mounted the saw to a board long enough for any arrow I might want to cut. Next, I attached some t-track, that you can get from woodcraft, on the board square with the saw cutting blade. I used only enough track to still allow clearance for a prefleched arrow to be cut. Measuring from the cutting blade, I added a section of a metal rule so you could tell the exact length of the shaft. Last thing, I used another section of t-track beside the rule for a stop so each cut can be duplicated if you want. The clamp in the t-track for the stop can be bought at woodcraft also. And it works great. Here's some photos:







2. *Archery Supply/Tool Board*. This is made out of a 4'X4' piece of pegboard on attached to a 1"x2" frame. Got the material at lowes. I'm a neat freak and like having things organizes, so this works good for me. You can get a hook assortment for pegboard at lowes also.





3. *Bow Press*. Made this press using 1 1/4" tube steel. The hinged ends are made out of 3/4" square stock. I installed eye bolts through the square stock and attached 1/4" aircraft cable to each. Mounted a jack to lift the cable and operate the press on a piece of 3/8" plate which is mouted to the workbench with one 3/4" bolt allowing the press to swing out of the way when not being used.



4. *Treestand Quiver Bracket*. Made out of 3/4" flatbar and a lag screw. Cut the flatbar the length of your quiver bracket, lay out the spacing of the holes in the bracket and drill and tap the holes for a 10-32 screw, and finally weld a lag screw in the center of the flatbar.



5. *Skinning Gambrel*. Made out of 1/2" stainless steel tubing. Just heated it and bent it the shape I wanted and welded the brace in at the bottom. I have a pulley mounted around a limb up in a big maple tree this is attached to. Just hook my riding mower to the end of the rope and hoist him on up. I get some wild looks during hunting season by people passing the house. May be because I live in the City!!



6. *Fletching Jig Turn Table*. I attached three bitz on a round piece of wood and used a lazy susan swivel on the bottom. You can fetch one vane and spin it around to the next one. Materials were bought at lowes.



7. *Arrow Holder For Dropzone*. Made this out of a 1/2" cord clamp from Grainger. They are used to hold electrical or computer cables. One side has a square with double-sided tape that will stick on the shelf of the riser. I cut the top part of the clamp off and covered the clamp with camo felt. Works better than the arrow rack that came with the dropzone.



8. *Broadhead Hand Stroff*. Used 3/4" wide aluminum and cut a piece of leather the same width and attached with 3m spray adhesive. I use it on mechanicals along with a small hone to keep from taking the heads apart. Gets 'em razor sharp.



9. *Bow Vice*. Patterned this after one I seen on the internet. Made of 3/8" rod and plate with some knobs I had laying around.



10. *Stainless Front mount STS and Cable Guard*. Made this front mount sts out of 3/8" ss rod and 3/4"X1/4" flatbar. The insert for the rod is machined out of 5/8" solid stock. Got the eds stopper from meanv. The cablr guard is also 3/8" stainless.



11. *Upright Antler Mount*. Got this idea off the PSE forum. I believe a company called buck stumps does something like this. What I did was took a piece of curly maple and cut out a 6"X6" block and routed the edge. Cut the antlers off the skull so that they would be straight up at the bases when mounted. Attached the skull and antlers with dry wall screws to the wood block. Next, I took 30 yr. white painters caulk and fille the back part of the skull and put a layer over the skull to the bottom of the antler bases. I'm working on this at the present so this is not completely finished. When the caulk drys I will smooth it down and put a finish on the wood. Hopefully it will turn out alright. It looks good now sitting on the mantle.


----------



## Hoyt Havoc

The bow on the left has my home made STS string stop. I have some camo tale on it so its hard to see in this pic so I'll post another later. 
View attachment 178057


----------



## devonhubb

*Receiver Hitch Hoist*

Here is a receiver hitch game hoist that I made a couple of years ago. I copied another one that I had seen. It is simple to make & very functional. If I remember right, it cost about $50 in materials and took a couple hours to cut parts and weld up ~ I am not a very good welder. That is my dad in the photo. I hope the pic shows up. Its my first try at posting a picture.


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## XHOGGER1

This is a bow sight I designed and made , I also made the scope. the only thing bought was the tritium pin.


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



XHOGGER1 said:


> This is a bow sight I designed and made , I also made the scope. the only thing bought was the tritium pin.


---
Hello
Real nice sight
Could you show a pic.of the other side of the sight or a front pic.
Thanks


----------



## CoolhandLuke

I will probably be posting pics of my Mud Mold base and cavities for the stabilizer that I am going to have shortly.


----------



## XHOGGER1

Front view


----------



## XHOGGER1

Other side


----------



## TributeRocks

hey I made mine today I actually liked the translucent colered nocks the best.
I wish i had a digital camera theese are awesome!!! too bad wally ran out and dicks only had one.


----------



## krazyracer

*homemade*

here's a treestand I made a couple years back
only 9.lbs - foldes up for easy carry - mounted couple feet off ground had brave 250+lbs neighbor climb on and jump up and down.
made no diagrames just started cutting metal and welding.


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## CoolhandLuke

!?STICKY?! :embara:


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



XHOGGER1 said:


> Other side


---
Hello
This I will say again .A fine looking sight.There our several things that stand out on this sight to me. First being the the scope mount .And scope not being able to turn.Very nice.Also I like the way the sight pin is mounted in the scope. And the way the scope is designed.

I sit here trying to visulize how by turning the nob on the bottom of the sight will raise and lower the sight.Correct me here, if this isn't the purpose of the black nob.

Keep up the good work.


----------



## XHOGGER1

Yes the black knob controls the up and down. The sight is driven up and down by (2) 5/32" balls in a groove under spring pressure with a spacing of .900". They are located behind what holds the scope to the sight rack. You can contol how hard it is to turn by the increase or decrease of spring pressure. The sight will move .900" up or down for every complete turn. Thanks for your comments.


----------



## Big Country

Coop, old buddy old pal....that thing looks SWEET!

Surely we could work something out here buddy........:wink:


----------



## XHOGGER1

BigCountry , I always forget about those Southpaws.


----------



## Big Country

XHOGGER1 said:


> BigCountry , I always forget about those Southpaws.


Come on dude!:sad: I know you can hook me up here........I`ll make you famous!

Or ruin your name! :wink:


----------



## Big Country

Hey.......after taking another look at the pics......that thing sure looks reversable to me. 


Don`t make me  

BTW, no hurry, I don`t leave for Wisconsin until this tuesday night.


----------



## studerp

Here is a target I made the other day.










I posted it in the general archery forum. I can post more pictures here if need be, I didn't realize this thread was still going or I would have posted it here to begin with. 

Here is a link to that thread.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=384937


----------



## OverMyHead

*Cheap mineral mix recipe*

200 pounds for about $23
Buy the following at a feed store/farm store/co-op:
(50 pounds) di-calcium phospate ($11/50 pound bag)
(100 pounds) red trace mineral salt (($5/50 pound bag)
(50 pounds) stock salt, ice cream salt, fine rock salt, whatever ($2-3 per 50)

keep ingredients separate until ready to use, mix 1 part to 2 parts to 1 part (same proportions as you bought it). Use a 3 pound coffee can to measure out what you need and mix just prior to using. Pour it out in a depression in the dirt. that is all it takes. replenish aevery 6 months to 1 year depending on use.


----------



## Beagle

*Nice Job*

I've shot aluminums into these for nearly 20 yrs. without any damage. Don't know about carbons. I use any kind of clothing or material I can find and pack it good. After you shoot a lot of arrows in it, it will open up a big hole in the chicken wire eventually and that's where you shoot the broadhead. I usually dull one up a bit before shooting it cause I have had them to cut all the way thru occassionally. I've got some of these huge plastic bags that I cover mine with when not in use to keep the rain out. Its been out there for three years and still going strong.


----------



## Bird Hunt Dog

*Thanks for the lighted nock idea guys!!*

I made a couple today and they work great!!! 

Just wanted to add. *Don't* buy the Thill lights that you have to twist to turn on......That's what I bought the first time:embara:


----------



## PatriotDually

This really should be a STICKY!!


----------



## Bird Hunt Dog

I vote for sticky


----------



## CoolhandLuke

CoolhandLuke said:


> !?STICKY?! :embara:



Me too...again!


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## huntaholic

*Bump!!!!!*

:bump2:


----------



## Huaco

*Sticky*

Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! :darkbeer: ukey: :secret:  :embara: :sad:   :zip:   :wink: :cocktail:  :tongue: Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! Sticky!


----------



## Bird Hunt Dog

I build all my own stands!
Here is the climber I built last year









Here are a couple of my hang on's.....I have built like 15 of them!!:shade: 

















I also just built a '15 ladder stand.........I don't have a pic yet but I'll take one next time I sit in it!!


----------



## HCH

Double Bull blind easy carry.....
I have tried lots of different ways to easily carry my Double Bull into the woods and this is the ticket for me. This setup you see is a rubber-like bow sling similiar to the claw that I picked up at the IA Deer Classic. This carry sling doesn't slide off of your shoulder like the factory cloth one that Double Bull gives you. I have a Double Bull chair and I used to stuff it in the blind bag but that was a pain. I would then carry a backpack for my turkey decoys. I now take a motorcycle elastic tie down net with hooks and wrap it around the blind and this net holds my chair or chairs if my wife is going and a couple decoys easily. I use another net if I want to bring a whole flock or extra gear for an all dayer. These nets are cheap and can be found at most wally worlds. Makes carrying these blinds a breeze and I wanted to share with you.


----------



## PSEloyal

sticky


----------



## araz2114

HCH, why don't you just get a camo wheelbarrow   ? That is a lot of stuff to carry.

Great ideas for helping others (like me) with the good problem of too much stuff.

Thank you again!


----------



## EASTON94

Ok, OK, I give!!! Its been as sticky before but I'll stick it up there for a while again!! '94


----------



## LiteSpeed1

KRAZYRACER--Nice looking stand, but please do yourself and us a favor and use a good guality ratchet type strap to hang your stand. I've seen those cam buckle type straps fail. Wouldn't want you falling.


----------



## MNmike

*hoooraaayyyy!!!*



EASTON94 said:


> Ok, OK, I give!!! Its been as sticky before but I'll stick it up there for a while again!! '94



Thanks EASTON94!:RockOn: :cheer2:


----------



## STIHL

Let us in on the on off switch. But huntaholic you just helped me to be able to use a lighted nock im to broke to buy them other high dollar things


----------



## huntaholic

STIHL said:


> Let us in on the on off switch. But huntaholic you just helped me to be able to use a lighted nock im to broke to buy them other high dollar things


Glad to help, I've had a lot of requests to build lights for others, just my timing has been off between traveling for work and spending some time with my family.

I am going to see if I can get time soon to sit down and build a few more.

I've got to get out to buy some more of the LED's, the last batch i bought were the twist on types. Haven't figured out what to do with those.


----------



## psychobubba

*home made deer cart*

















this might save my back all aluminum except the axle and wheels no tubes light weight four sealed roller barrings


----------



## bcoulter

*tree stand camo*

AWESOME thread!



Don't throw away those old artificial Christmas trees, take them apart and wire the limbs to your tree stands to help hide em.


----------



## HCH

Great stuff guys!!!! Keep it coming. HCH


----------



## Brushy Branch

*remote controlled electronic caller*

Here is a link to a couple of remote control callers i made
they can be used for almost anything as it uses a mp3 player as its sound base

http://www.brushybranch.com/wiring%20diagram.htm

let me know what ya think
Brushybranch


----------



## adjare87

brushy branch that looks like it will work like a charm, very good job! let us know how the field test goes


----------



## Brushy Branch

Field tests have been very good
called in several coyote and lots of crows
havent tried it on anything else yet
i have calls for elk, bobcat, mountain lion and so on
Brushy Branch


----------



## radtuck

Been reading all the posts about the glow nocks, and thought I could use those lights to replace the crappy glow sticks for my Trophy Ridge sight. Used an alligator clip and fastened the light to the side of the sight directing it at the fiberoptics and the pins glow like a champ!!!!


----------



## HOSSBUCK

*Need Homemade Idea*

THE LIGHT FOR MY DEAD NUTS PUTS OUT TO MUCH LIGHT. THE HOLES IN THE SIGHT HOUSING LET OUT TO MUCH LIGHT THE PINS LIGHT UP GREAT BUT THE EXCESS LIGHT HAS GOTTEN ME BUSTED TWICE . ANY IDEAS ?


----------



## XP35

HOSSBUCK said:


> THE LIGHT FOR MY DEAD NUTS PUTS OUT TO MUCH LIGHT. THE HOLES IN THE SIGHT HOUSING LET OUT TO MUCH LIGHT THE PINS LIGHT UP GREAT BUT THE EXCESS LIGHT HAS GOTTEN ME BUSTED TWICE . ANY IDEAS ?


You could try putting some tape over it with a small hole in the tape. Or PSE makes a light that has a 4 position rheostat switch in it to adjust brightness. I have one and it works WAY better than any of the single brightness lights I have seen.


----------



## brino

Use a black marker and color over the light lens this will block light if it is not enough, let it dry and repeat untill it is where you want it.


----------



## ecm

homemade monster target....
















this is made from dry goods sacks and stuffed full with........dry goods sacks. they are a plastic canvas type stuff and stop an arrow great (field point). I wouldn't shoot a broadhead into it because it will definitely get stuck. my sister in law got the used bags from her work for free


----------



## radtuck

To block out the excess light that glows outside the sight, I put tin foil around the bottom of my sight (around the fiberoptics). It allows the light to be reflected around the fiberoptics and doesn't allow it to show outside the sight (not very pretty, but works).


----------



## jersey hunter

ecmbowhunter said:


> this is made from dry goods sacks and stuffed full with........dry goods sacks. they are a plastic canvas type stuff and stop an arrow great (field point). I wouldn't shoot a broadhead into it because it will definitely get stuck. my sister in law got the used bags from her work for free


that thing is HUGE....looks great...


----------



## ecm

thanks...works like a charm too, especially with three of us shooting around here.


----------



## sq246

*"rheostat for coiled fiber optics sights"*

I think I could claim the basis for the HHA idea they now incorporate into their sights with the coiled fiber optic than can literally golw too bright at times. I told Mark that in case he got any calls about the original ol5 whatever that I just use a cut out piece of bike inner tubed fit it over the scope housing so it can be pulled back and foth over the fiber in whatever amount you need to adjust how much light is hitting the optics. the next yeat they came out with their "rehostat" model! Defintely a more refined looking puppy but my inner tube is still more adjustable. ANYWAY I'M GLAD THEY COULD USE THE CONCEPT. THEY ARE THE GREATEST ACCESSORY COMPANY GOING AND THEIR CUSTOMER SERVICE IS HEADS AND SHOULDERS ABOVE ANY OTHER COMPANY OUT THEIR. 

SQ


----------



## AZkick-n40

radtuck said:


> Been reading all the posts about the glow nocks, and thought I could use those lights to replace the crappy glow sticks for my Trophy Ridge sight. Used an alligator clip and fastened the light to the side of the sight directing it at the fiberoptics and the pins glow like a champ!!!!


Radtuck,

Do you have any pics of how you set this up?

I'd appreciate it.

Brian


----------



## jlandherr

Dartonator
I was wondering where you got that camover center buckle? I would be interested in buy some of those.
JLandherr


----------



## radtuck

Hey, Brian.....I don't have a digital camera....I'll borrow my parent's in the next couple of days and submit a pic. I like the idea of the innertube wrap better than what I cover mine with....I use tin foil..not pretty, but effective. I'll post as soon as I can get the camera.


----------



## AZkick-n40

radtuck said:


> Hey, Brian.....I don't have a digital camera....I'll borrow my parent's in the next couple of days and submit a pic. I like the idea of the innertube wrap better than what I cover mine with....I use tin foil..not pretty, but effective. I'll post as soon as I can get the camera.



Thanks Radtuck - looking forward to seeing them.

Brian


----------



## oucorey

I found this post a month or so ago and haven't tried it yet. It may be the same one Byron was talking about.

I have been making lighted nocks for my carbon arrows for a few years and people at work have been bugging me on how to make them. So I thought I would share how I do them with everyone. 
Items needed: two press fit nocks, one clear red the other does not matter. gel type super glue, thill nite brite lighted bobber battery with red bulb( wal mart carries these in the fishing section for $2.49). a saw of some kind to cut one of the nocks, a heat source(butane or alcohol burner) and a couple of your wifes sewing straight pins. small file or sand paper nail clippers. 
make a note of your nock position in relation to the arrow. 
this sounds like a lot of stuff but it really isnt much to work with. 
to start off insert the bulb end of the fishing battery into the red nock, and turn the battery on( push the bulb in) with the light on it is easier to do the next step. 
Heat the end of a straight pin up till its red then push it through the nock into the red plastic that surronds the bulb on the fishing battery. with the light on it is easier to see to do this,this also pins the battery in place. use the nail clippers to cut off the pin close to the nock. they may not cut clear through but will mark the pin enough to break it off. file or sand this area down smooth and make sure it fits into the arrow shaft. 
next cut the insert part off the other nock right where the nocking part butts up against the arrow shaft, throw away the part that attachs to the string. the remaing peice will be used to center and hold the fishing battery in the arrow.slip the remaing end of the fishing battery into the open end of the nock insert portion. if you cut it off correctly the battery should fit snug into the bottom end of it. If it fits snug into the very end of the insert pull the battery out then apply super glue to the inside of the insert and reinstall the battery. if it does not fit snug cut another nock or put a little tape around the battery to snug it up. 
now it is time to install the whole thing. turn the light on (push down on the nock).the part that you glued on may not fit into the shaft, just sand or file the end down until it goes in. This should fit snug into the shaft as to hold every thing in place. remember your origanal nock oreintation and position the lighted the nock so that it will slide into that position. remeber this must be done with the light on. slide it all the way into position. then pull back on the nock slightly until the light goes out. the your are finished. the butt end of the nock will be pulled from the shaft slightly and what will happen is when you shoot the arrow the nock will slide forward and turn the light on. this does not afect arrow flight. You will be surprised how well this simple set up works. 
I know it sounds like a lot to do but it really is quick and easy. heres the best part, you can make nine of these for the price of three lighted nocks that you get from the major retail stores.


----------



## Mulder

*hey oucorey*

No need for all that stuff man!! I used an bolt that is just smaller than the inside dia. of my arrow shaft. I measured the distance of the top of the insert portion of the nock that I cut off with my dremel to the bottom of the nock (where it seats to your arrow shaft) with the light on. Marked that on the bolt. Insert the cut portion of knock, use the bolt to seat it at the proper depth, and then put in your light. And seat your knock. Leave it about an 8th to a 16th out and shoot away. The only pressure on the insert is what is needed to activate the light!! No glue needed. To shut it off you remove the nock and remove the light. You might have to bang the shaft on a flat surface to remove the light but this will not bother anything. Shot with a friend last night and probably shot 30 times. Lit everytime and no difference in accuracy.:wink:


----------



## killahog

Nice saw yelk hunter .I love this post it makes my workbench look somewhat organized.


----------



## araz2114

I guess you were asking me the question. I buy them from any place that makes or repairs truck tarps. They are a "Kinedyne 905" that takes 2" seatbelt material. You can also get them from industrial supply places. Just ask and if they don't have it they will know who does. Don't tell them what you are useing them for. Remember to put a pin into the hole so the buckle locks. They are VERY tight without the pin but better safe than sorry. You can also do a search for Kinedyne 905 http://www.kinedyne.com/ Check that out and see where the nearest supplier is.

Always use a safety harness!


----------



## Nicojax

i made a tree stand about a year ago, i only use it for practice shooting out off, and only about 5 feet high in the tree.,.,


----------



## radtuck

AZkick-n40 said:


> Radtuck,
> 
> Do you have any pics of how you set this up?
> 
> I'd appreciate it.
> 
> Brian


Hey, Brian....
I took some pictures today, but I forgot to get the cable to connect the camera to the computer... I will be going to her house tomorrow, and I will get the cable so that I can upload the pictures. Sorry for the delay. 
radtuck


----------



## AZkick-n40

radtuck said:


> Hey, Brian....
> I took some pictures today, but I forgot to get the cable to connect the camera to the computer... I will be going to her house tomorrow, and I will get the cable so that I can upload the pictures. Sorry for the delay.
> radtuck


Radtuck,

No problem for the delay, but still very much interested in what you have done.

Brian


----------



## radtuck

AZkick-n40 said:


> Radtuck,
> 
> Do you have any pics of how you set this up?
> 
> I'd appreciate it.
> 
> Brian



Here are the pics.....I found out that it works just as good to tape the light to the side of the sight. The recessed part of the sight works good for taping the light, and makes it easy to cover (so that you can't see the glow outside the sight). The idea using an innertube would work well, but I just cover mine with tin foil. The picture of the sights glowing didn't turn out very good without a flash, but using a flash defeated the purpose. Hope you can see it well enough.
View attachment 181877


View attachment 181878


View attachment 181879


----------



## HCH

Found this on another forum:


----------



## Huaco

*Bag target stand*

A buddy and I made one of these for each of us. Cost about $15 including paints. having the bag suspended makes the target absorb even more energy. the arrow has to move the bag while it is hitting it... does that make sense? I think we used 1" sq. tubing and used his wire feed.


----------



## Huaco

ttt


----------



## huntfish25

ttt


----------



## d1&only

*cagstorm*

I like the stand for the bag targets. May I suggest a thick piece of old carpet doubled up to hang on the fence behind it though just in case you miss the target. Don't want to take out the neighbor or his dog, well maybe the dog.


----------



## Huaco

d1&only said:


> I like the stand for the bag targets. May I suggest a thick piece of old carpet doubled up to hang on the fence behind it though just in case you miss the target. Don't want to take out the neighbor or his dog, well maybe the dog.


I have swiched to a block type target now. And am not using the stand for a bag anymore. I also have a 20-30 ft. alley behind the fence. The arros do not go far when they go thru the fence...:embara: I found that out the hard way... I was wondering what I could put behind the target to protect against that. Does the carpet work very well? Since I am no longer using the rack for a target I think I will support some carpet over it. 

Thanks for the Idea




.


----------



## outback1

btt


----------



## JC Keith

I have really, really enjoyed this thread, read all 19 pages over a few hours and can not wait to try some of the ideas.

This is more of a TTT but will add something simple I did tonight.

I took an old carbon shaft, that I Robinhood'd last season and cut it short.

I am using it to hold my BH's when sharpening. I do not have, nor the $$ for a lansky or other kit, so I do it the way I have for quite a few years, by hand! These are Magnus 2 blades, never had luck with the replaced ones, so I do not use them!

BTW had to put together a leather strop out of an old boot I did not have the heart to throw away, so far it works well. I am going to try and locate some compound after next payday, $$ permitting. (Baby needs diapers ya know!! :wink: )

I guess to keep with the thread, I will post a picture!

Thanks to all who have added very cool ideas.

Stay safe

JC


----------



## JC Keith

OK lets try that picture again! 

:embara:


----------



## JC Keith

OK one more post for the night. :darkbeer:

Has anyone made a scrap dripper. The ones that are supposed to only drop scent on the scrap during daylight hours? Can't recall specific names off the top of my head, but Hunter Specialties makes a cheap one.

I looked at one while grocery shopping tonight and it seems simple enough, but not sure if it is.

Thanks


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



JC Keith said:


> OK one more post for the night. :darkbeer:
> 
> Has anyone made a scrap dripper. The ones that are supposed to only drop scent on the scrap during daylight hours? Can't recall specific names off the top of my head, but Hunter Specialties makes a cheap one.
> 
> I looked at one while grocery shopping tonight and it seems simple enough, but not sure if it is.
> 
> Thanks


-----------
Hello JC
JC some where on this At site maybe even on this thread.Some one made a dripper out of a Avon shampoo plastic bottle .
Later


----------



## Hunter Bob

*Home made camp*

This is the camp my friends made. I only helped out on paint. They did a good job and we all have been very happy with last 3 years of use. This year new bunks and a new stove were add. Sleeps 6 in comford. 3/8 plywood and 1x2 frame held together with long henges. Sides are 6'Hx 18'L ,back and front are 12' w x8' H at centre. Tarp roof and small windows on 3 sides. All folds into trailer Hope other guys have picks of trailer,also home made. Will post if I get them.


----------



## Hunter Bob

*more pics camp*

Here's one more.:darkbeer:


----------



## EASTON94

That is nice Hunterbob, thats what our camp needs too!! '94


----------



## araz2114

*Hunt camp*

I have always wondered what the inside of the smurf's hunt camp looked like  That is nice looking camp but doesn't the blue light mess you up.....or is that what the bottles are for?


----------



## Hunter Bob

*smurf camp*



araz2114 said:


> I have always wondered what the inside of the smurf's hunt camp looked like  That is nice looking camp but doesn't the blue light mess you up.....or is that what the bottles are for?


smurf camp good one Almost never in there when it is daylight (you know hunting camp) and the bottles go down real slow . If we get moose they go down quicker. :darkbeer: ukey:


----------



## SRA MQ1

*Lighted nock how to video*

Lighted nock how to video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMqLT-4ezzk


----------



## Elanus axillaris

*Its been a while excuse the long post*

Here are a few of my latest fabrications


*Side bar for my ultratec*









Other side











*Modifications to fixed quiver*









Fitted








Before (couldn't acess ajustment knob on sight)










*Home made Stabaliser*











*Bow press*









With trykon








With UT










more to follow


----------



## Elanus axillaris

*few more*

*Custom inserts for bow cases*









With bows










*Sling for relaese aid*












*Pin / fiber modification to titan scope*

Front view








back view








side view








bottom view


----------



## practice-more

Very nice work there hunter5425!

Some very nice work indeed!

Mitch


----------



## Elanus axillaris

Hunter Bob said:


> This is the camp my friends made. I only helped out on paint. They did a good job and we all have been very happy with last 3 years of use. This year new bunks and a new stove were add. Sleeps 6 in comford. 3/8 plywood and 1x2 frame held together with long henges. Sides are 6'Hx 18'L ,back and front are 12' w x8' H at centre. Tarp roof and small windows on 3 sides. All folds into trailer Hope other guys have picks of trailer,also home made. Will post if I get them.


Very nice setup.
Just out of curiosity... how long do you guys stay / leave the camp set up for. 
Seems a lot of work.


----------



## outback1

this thread need's it's own catagory.ex. like bowhunting,genral archery,swap hunts.homemade stuff you get the idea.
I look at this thread every day.


----------



## NYCOZ

Do the home Lumenocks work with ACC arrows with Uni Bushings?


----------



## fatboy95

Keeping it at the top


----------



## Gerhard

SRA MQ1 said:


> Lighted nock how to video
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMqLT-4ezzk


Thats a great instructional video.

Thanks.

Now if I can just get some of that lights in South Africa:sad: 

Gerhard


----------



## misplaced texan

Do my own wraps at home and have gotten quite a response on here about them...check out my signature for website and email if interested.:wink:


----------



## Mexican 3D

heres the first prototype of a totally adjustable back bar i made. it took me about 2 hours from star to finish, i will take my time on the next one to make sure it comes better. of course its not "homemade" since i made it in the schools shop. i also made the stabilizer and back bar using old carbon arrows.


----------



## NYCOZ

Do the home Lumenocks work with ACC arrows with Uni Bushings?
TTT Anybody???


----------



## pdkpotocki

love the thread very informative.

Anybody build a arcery range in you basement? Love to see pic for ideas


----------



## oneshot7mm-08

will the lighted nocks work with Easton full metal jackets i have only found a pack of 3 for 50 bucks shoot on that


----------



## BaMaBoWHuNTeR.

ttt


----------



## neill91_maui

c'mon people post up of what u have made


----------



## jimposten

*oh boy!*

Oh I am gettin the camera fired up. I am one Cheep dude so i nevr buy what i can make. This is the best thread on AT. I will post up some of my home / shop made stuff.


----------



## 30-30

Misfire said:


> Here is a boat I built a couple of years ago for duck hunting. (The only thing I enjoy more than bowhunting.) It has been on many bowfishing and bowhunting trips allowing me access to public hunting grounds that I couldn't walk or drive to.
> 
> 
> Why not hunt ducks with a bow?


----------



## jimposten

Here are acouple of pics of my stabilizer I made. I turned the ends out of aluminum, the stabilizer is weighted like a deadblow hammer on the end (very schock absorbing) I also added the limbsaver on the end and the carbon fiber wrap. all lighter than my the whole thing weighs 9.5oz. I am working on a side bar to match. Let me know what you think.


----------



## DougKMN

Some cool stuff in this thread. I see a few things to try when I finally do get started.

There really should be a completely separate forum for homemade stuff, a simple sticky isn't good enough LOL.


----------



## Spreggy

Nice stab, Jim!
A couple of questions if I may.

What is the stock you used for the rod? Is that hardware store material?

The connection to the bow always seems to be the problem for me, how did you do it?

Thanks!
John


----------



## jimposten

*ingredients...*



Spreggy said:


> Nice stab, Jim!
> A couple of questions if I may.
> 
> What is the stock you used for the rod? Is that hardware store material?
> 
> The connection to the bow always seems to be the problem for me, how did you do it?
> 
> Thanks!
> John


The main beam of the Stab. Is 1"od aluminum anodized silver, Which is shop scrap for me So it was free. I do believe you might be able to find something close at a hardware store. but it might get expensive. lucky for me I have stacks of it out in the garage.

For the ends I turned down solid aluminum stock on a lathe. you could get 7/8 inch solid aluminum and cut your own slugs to fit flush if you dont have a lathe. Then I center drilled the ends, I epoxied the limbsaver to the end and threaded the other end to accept the correct threaded rod for my riser.

I drilled it out with 1/2 inch holes stagered every inch to lighten it up and to give it that cool mahine gun look. I also epoxied a rubber slug tourds the front and filled the remaining frontal space with sand for weight and to act like a dead blow hammer. this thing sucks up the shock. It is 28" total.


----------



## outback1

btt


----------



## jimposten

ttt


----------



## BowtechAndy

very cool stabilizer. 
sending you a PM


----------



## FEATHER_RIDGE

*Home Made Fiber Optic Sight*

HEY FELLA ATER`S JUST WANTED TO SAY THIS IS THE BEST THREAD,,, I HAVE BEEN BUILDING STUFF FOR MY BOW FOR YEARS, I HAVE A MACHICE SHOP IN MY GARAGE WITH PLENTY OF BEER,,,,,,,, SO THAT`S WERE I SPEND MOST OF MY TIME, I BUILT AND DESIGNED THIS SIGHT BACK IN 1989 IT HAS A REOSTAT THAT I CAN TURN THE LIGHT UP / DOWN, AND THE TESTING OF SEVERAL ELECTRONIC`S I GOT IT TO WERE I CAN LEAVE THE SIGHT ON CONTINIOUS FOR ABOUT A WEEK & A HALF BEFORE THE BATTERIES GO DEAD
THE FIBER OPTIC ARE SURGICAL GRADE AND SUPER BRIGHT, THE SIGHT IT SELF IS MACHINED OUT OF SOLID ALUM, STOCK , AND I SENT IT OUT AND HAD THEM ANODIZED,,,,,, WHAT DO YOU GUY`S THINK


----------



## Hayseedcaver

*homemade fiber optic sight*

What an awesome job on that sight! :darkbeer: 

I really need to build myself a garage, I've already got a great big :darkbeer: :darkbeer: :darkbeer: fridge


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*

That a fine looking site. Like the way the pins light up.

Now you have Old Unk's undiveded attention here on your light. I have built one and almost went broke at Radio Shack by the time I got it completed  

Are you useing a diaode or Led bulb for your light sourse or other.
Again good job :thumbs_up 
Thanks Later


----------



## FEATHER_RIDGE

Unk Bond said:


> That a fine looking site. Like the way the pins light up.
> 
> Now you have Old Unk's undiveded attention here on your light. I have built one and almost went broke at Radio Shack by the time I got it completed
> 
> Are you useing a diaode or Led bulb for your light sourse or other.
> Again good job :thumbs_up
> Thanks Later


HEY, UNK BOND I SEE YOUR FROM OHIO ALSO, I AM FROM JAMESTOWN OHIO
I AM USING A L.E.D RADIO SHACK PART # 276-307, BUT THERE ARE OTHER ELECTRONIC`S INVOLVED. U MUST USE A 10 OHM RESISTER OR YOU`LL BURN THE L.E.D OUT,,,,,,,,, POST A PIC OF YOUR`S


FEATHER RIDGE


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



FEATHER_RIDGE said:


> HEY FELLA ATER`S JUST WANTED TO SAY THIS IS THE BEST THREAD,,, I HAVE BEEN BUILDING STUFF FOR MY BOW FOR YEARS, I HAVE A MACHICE SHOP IN MY GARAGE WITH PLENTY OF BEER,,,,,,,, SO THAT`S WERE I SPEND MOST OF MY TIME, I BUILT AND DESIGNED THIS SIGHT BACK IN 1989 IT HAS A REOSTAT THAT I CAN TURN THE LIGHT UP / DOWN, AND THE TESTING OF SEVERAL ELECTRONIC`S I GOT IT TO WERE I CAN LEAVE THE SIGHT ON CONTINIOUS FOR ABOUT A WEEK & A HALF BEFORE THE BATTERIES GO DEAD
> THE FIBER OPTIC ARE SURGICAL GRADE AND SUPER BRIGHT, THE SIGHT IT SELF IS MACHINED OUT OF SOLID ALUM, STOCK , AND I SENT IT OUT AND HAD THEM ANODIZED,,,,,, WHAT DO YOU GUY`S THINK


-------
My light is for a target sight. That is a impact adapted to a Mag LED light head, run on 3 volt nicade rechargeable batteries. Off and on switch is controled by pulling the bow to your anchor. And light gose off when you let down.

At this time Iam trying to make a more compact one. But the one I got sure works good for these old eyes.I notice Copper John has a new fiber system with out a light.You might read there MFG teaser thread.

Later
Will try to get a picture up later. What battery sourse our you useing.


----------



## FEATHER_RIDGE

Unk Bond said:


> -------
> My light is for a target sight. That is a impact adapted to a Mag LED light head, run on 3 volt nicade rechargeable batteries. Off and on switch is controled by pulling the bow to your anchor. And light gose off when you let down.
> 
> At this time Iam trying to make a more compact one. But the one I got sure works good for these old eyes.I notice Copper John has a new fiber system with out a light.You might read there MFG teaser thread.
> 
> Later
> Will try to get a picture up later. What battery sourse our you useing.


I HAVE BUILT SEVERAL POWER BOXES FOR FRIEND,WITH ON/0FF SWITCHES & POWER DIMMER`S, I ALSO BUILT 1 SIGHT SET-UP TO COME ON @ FUL DRAWL AND SHUT OFF AFTER THE SHOT,,,YOU SAID THAT I MIGHT READ 
Copper John MFG teaser thread, WERE WOULD THAT BE LOCATED,,, DO THEY HAVE SOMETHING NEW ?? HOW COMPACT DO YOU WANT TO GO ,
I HAVE PROBABLY ALREADY GOT THE PARTS,,,,,,,, I`LL POST A PIC OF THE FIRST SIGHT I BUILT IT HAS BEEN ROB`D OF A FEW PART`S BUT YOU`LL 
GET THE JISSS OF IT !!!


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*

Here you go.

Later

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=414062&goto=newpost


----------



## FEATHER_RIDGE

HERE`S THE FIRST SIGHT THAT I BUILT IN HIGH SCHOOL IT`S A LITTLE
PREASTORIC BUT I BUILT IT WHEN I WAS 17 YEARS OLD,, THINGS HAVE COME A LONG WAY , IT DOES HAVE WINDAGE ADJUSTMENT`S LEFT/RIGHT
MICRO, NEVER SEEN THE NEED FOR MICRO HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT`S . THE HEAD ALSO TILT`S IN 15 DEG.. CLICK`S
THE FIRST PIC SHOWS THE ELECTRONIC COMPARTMENT . I HAND POLISHED
THE ALUM, IT HAS BEEN IN A BOX IN THE GARAGE FOR YEARS ,, LIKE I SAID
THERE ARE A FEW MISSING PARTS


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*

Hello

Ut -O i see right here iam talking to a craftsman .:thumbs_up With Machinish back ground along with other.:thumbs_up :shade: 

Are you useing a CNC machine now or just shop equipment.

My trade was Sheet metal along with other.My down fall is Inever got and elctronic back ground. Now Ican wire a house .But I let a little flash light system throw me.Now Ihave made my own **** lights and so on. But for me Ihave always fought the bulb verses the battery. With out going into residters or reostates.

------------

Now the picture you show with the battery encloser cap.

Is what I have in mind .with a round scope at the end of the round light houseing. With to wires leading to my on and off switch.

Your prinscipal here is some what like the Impact sight.Where as there LED bulb and button batterys are in a round container. with threads and screwed into the scope houseing tube.

For me I want long battery life .Where as I never found it with button batterys.It kept running Back to Radio shack. Also Imight add here Radio shacks LED's don't seem to be as brite as some little flash lights I have had.

My Mounting bracket I used for my Impact scope was Aa Sure Loc head worked over.

Seems you have found the combination to the correct LED and a battery source with some battery power reduced inturn giveing longer bulb life.:thumbs_up 

I also like how you made your spine grooves to keep your sight from turning. Well if this sight was made a 17 .I probally be amaze where your knowledge is at this point of your life.:smile: 

Later


----------



## FEATHER_RIDGE

I BUILT THESE USING STANDARD MILLING MACHINE, AND LATHE`S ,
I NOW HAVE MY OWN LITTLE MACHINE SHOP IF I CAN MAKE IT I DON`T BUY IT. MORE BEER DRINKING MONEY 

I DO WORKING IN A PRETTY BIG CNC SHOP IN DAYTON, MOSTLY DETAIL WORK,SPECIAL MACHINE BUILDING, PROGRAMING . I TOOK A SMALL ELECTRONIC CLASS JUST FOR SOMETHING TO DO . 

THE FLUTE`S IN THE WINDAGE BAR MAKE`S CONACT WITH 4 SPRING LOADED BALL BEARING`S THIS CAUSES IT TO INDEX @ 15 DEG.. I HAVE NEVER HAD TO REPLACE A L.E.D AFTER I GOT THE RIGHT COMINATION OF ELECTRONIC`S . THE L.E.D I MENTION`D IS 3000 mcd it`s pretty bright

WHEN I DESIGN`D THE SIGHT TO TURN ON AT FULL DRAWL I USED A PUSH BUTTON MOMENTARY SWITCH, ACTIVATED BYTHE CABLE SLIDE !!!

HOW OFTEN DO YOU HAVE TO RECHARGE YOUR BATTERYS


WERE ARE YA LOCATED IN OHIO


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*

??? Now that ACTIVATED BYTHE CABLE SLIDE .
It just wouldn't happen to have had a black box with a hole in the box .That inturn went over the cable guard . And as the cable slide came back and pushed in on the round out side ring it to turn it on and off. And distance of the box was set with a allen With a coiled cable like a telephone cable fasten to it with a male plug on the end.

I live about 100 miles south of Columbus near Jackson Ohio.


Later


----------



## FEATHER_RIDGE

I Used A Monentary Push Button Switch, I Drill`d A Hole Through The Cable Guard Too Hide The Wire`s , Then Used A Collar Clamp
To Hold The Switch In Position,,, With The Drop Away Rest They Have Today You Could Use Contact`s On The Rest Itself,, When The Rest Come`s Up The Light Turn`s On,,, Puuurrrttty Simple Really

Around Jackson,huuuu I Score Deer With A Fella From Around There


Feather Ridge


----------



## FEATHER_RIDGE

HERE`S A PIC OF MY BOW PRESS I MADE A FEW YEARS BACK, I COULD`NT
BELEIVE ALL THE BOW PRESSES MADE HERE ON THIS SITE , IT WORK`S PRETTY GOOD !!!


----------



## Drog

FEATHER_RIDGE said:


> HERE`S A PIC OF MY BOW PRESS I MADE A FEW YEARS BACK, I COULD`NT
> BELEIVE ALL THE BOW PRESSES MADE HERE ON THIS SITE , IT WORK`S PRETTY GOOD !!!


There's a bow press there? All I saw was that fine looking BEER FRIDGE :darkbeer: :darkbeer: :darkbeer: 

Just kiddin'. 

Back To The Top!!!


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*

Here is a pick of my light mounted on my SureLock with a Impact sight.
Not fancy but works good.

Later


----------



## FEATHER_RIDGE

Unk Bond said:


> Here is a pick of my light mounted on my SureLock with a Impact sight.
> Not fancy but works good.
> 
> Later


IF IT WORK`S THEN WHY MESS WITH-IT , RADIO SHACK DOES SELL A SMALLER BOX, AT LEAST THEY DID I PROBABLY HAVE A FEW LAYING AROUND
THE BOXES THAT I USED I HAD TO ADD BATTERY CONTACT`S INSIDE IT
IT WAS ABOUT 1/2 THICK, 1 1/4 WIDE, 2 INCHS LONG, I HAVE ALSO
USED A CONTACT SWITCH I PLACE`D IT UNDER SOME PAD`NG ON THE GRIP
WHEN YOU DRAWL`D THE BOW BACK THE PALM OF YOU HAND TURN`D THE SITE ON,,,,

FEATHER RIDGE


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



FEATHER_RIDGE said:


> IF IT WORK`S THEN WHY MESS WITH-IT , RADIO SHACK DOES SELL A SMALLER BOX, AT LEAST THEY DID I PROBABLY HAVE A FEW LAYING AROUND
> THE BOXES THAT I USED I HAD TO ADD BATTERY CONTACT`S INSIDE IT
> IT WAS ABOUT 1/2 THICK, 1 1/4 WIDE, 2 INCHS LONG, I HAVE ALSO
> USED A CONTACT SWITCH I PLACE`D IT UNDER SOME PAD`NG ON THE GRIP
> WHEN YOU DRAWL`D THE BOW BACK THE PALM OF YOU HAND TURN`D THE SITE ON,,,,
> 
> FEATHER RIDGE


-------------------
Hello

Quote = I HAVE ALSO
USED A CONTACT SWITCH I PLACE`D IT UNDER SOME PAD`NG ON THE GRIP
WHEN YOU DRAWL`D THE BOW BACK THE PALM OF YOU HAND TURN`D THE 
SITE ON,,,,

---------------------------------
Thats the way this one works. I have velcro sandwiched with two flat pieces of flat brass .Placed on one side of the life line of my bow grip hand. My hand has to be placed on the bow grip the same way each time for the light to come on and off.

Later
Now the sandwich pad with sight can be removed and placed on another velcro bow grip.


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*

Here is a little spring ketcher I use for working on releases.I have a magnet laying the back to ketch springs. and to atach metal part pieces to. Spent 2 hours one night on my kitchen floor with a magnet.trying to find a little spring, To find it later in the door seal.

Later


----------



## FEATHER_RIDGE

*Choke Tube Remington*

:thumbs_up I`VE LOST ALOT OF LITTLE SPRING`S AND THING`S :angry: 

HERE`S A PIC, OF A CHOKE TUBE THAT I BUILT FOR MY 1187 REM.
WOULD POST A PIC OF THE TURKEY I SMOKE`D LAST SEASON BUT IT`S PUURRRRTY GRAPHIC . I MACHINED IT OUT OF 17-4PH STAINLESS STEEL


----------



## cattrapper

ttt


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*

FEATHER RIDGE

Nice choke.
Was enough of that Turkey to eat


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



FEATHER_RIDGE said:


> I BUILT THESE USING STANDARD MILLING MACHINE, AND LATHE`S ,
> I NOW HAVE MY OWN LITTLE MACHINE SHOP IF I CAN MAKE IT I DON`T BUY IT. MORE BEER DRINKING MONEY
> 
> I DO WORKING IN A PRETTY BIG CNC SHOP IN DAYTON, MOSTLY DETAIL WORK,SPECIAL MACHINE BUILDING, PROGRAMING . I TOOK A SMALL ELECTRONIC CLASS JUST FOR SOMETHING TO DO .
> 
> THE FLUTE`S IN THE WINDAGE BAR MAKE`S CONACT WITH 4 SPRING LOADED BALL BEARING`S THIS CAUSES IT TO INDEX @ 15 DEG.. I HAVE NEVER HAD TO REPLACE A L.E.D AFTER I GOT THE RIGHT COMINATION OF ELECTRONIC`S . THE L.E.D I MENTION`D IS 3000 mcd it`s pretty bright
> 
> WHEN I DESIGN`D THE SIGHT TO TURN ON AT FULL DRAWL I USED A PUSH BUTTON MOMENTARY SWITCH, ACTIVATED BYTHE CABLE SLIDE !!!
> 
> HOW OFTEN DO YOU HAVE TO RECHARGE YOUR BATTERYS
> 
> 
> WERE ARE YA LOCATED IN OHIO


------

Quote = HOW OFTEN DO YOU HAVE TO RECHARGE YOUR BATTERYS

To be honest with you.Never paid much attention. Will start a test now with 3 days use on them.
--------
I youst to **** hunt in James Town along a river.

Later


----------



## FEATHER_RIDGE

Unk Bond said:


> FEATHER RIDGE
> 
> Nice choke.
> Was enough of that Turkey to eat


PLENTY IT WAS ALL IN THE NECK (ALL IN THE NECK 24 YARD`S)


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*

t t t --BUMP :darkbeer:


----------



## pirogue53

I wanted a low profile, compact, and light weight bow holder on a Lone Wolf platform that was made for parallel limbs. Here it is.


----------



## FEATHER_RIDGE

pirogue53 said:


> I wanted a low profile, compact, and light weight bow holder on a Lone Wolf platform that was made for parallel limbs. Here it is.



look`s like that will work great :thumbs_up


----------



## busman

*carolinafalls.com*

Has anyone ordered from carolinafalls.com? I was going to order the replacement batteries for some lighted nocks? I was just curious if anyone here has had any dealings with them. Prices seem really fair.

Thanks, Mike


----------



## mdewitt71

busman said:


> Has anyone ordered from carolinafalls.com? I was going to order the replacement batteries for some lighted nocks? I was just curious if anyone here has had any dealings with them. Prices seem really fair.
> 
> Thanks, Mike


I got wraps from them......seemed pretty good 2 me. :thumbs_up


----------



## azhunter

I thought this thread got a Sticky! Isn't this what ArcheryTalk is all about?


----------



## TravisinWV

here's a feeder I made from PVC. I actually got the idea from this thread or another one on here:thumbs_up awesome stuff everybody:darkbeer:


----------



## BowtechAndy

THIS THREAD NEEDS TO BE A STICKY *RK*.:thumbs_up :thumbs_up


----------



## goatranch

WVbowhuntr74 said:


> here's a feeder I made from PVC. I actually got the idea from this thread or another one on here:thumbs_up awesome stuff everybody:darkbeer:


Just a note here:
I have used these feeders with good success but if you put them on a tree that is as small a diameter as will possibley support the feeder, it will prevent ***** and squirrels from eating it all. Also, put the feeder opening up about waist high, this will prevent turkeys from getting it all.


----------



## azhunter

EASTON94 said:


> Ok, OK, I give!!! Its been as sticky before but I'll stick it up there for a while again!! '94



??????????


----------



## TravisinWV

goatranch said:


> Just a note here:
> I have used these feeders with good success but if you put them on a tree that is as small a diameter as will possibley support the feeder, it will prevent ***** and squirrels from eating it all. Also, put the feeder opening up about waist high, this will prevent turkeys from getting it all.


good tips goatranch! I personally don't mind what critters get the corn I put in them. My son loves watching all the different animals feed on the 5 PVC feeders i have on my land. but if you mainly want them for deer then you need to do something like that.


----------



## FEATHER_RIDGE

Tttttttttttooooooppppppp


----------



## NY911

Unk Bond said:


> Here is a little spring ketcher I use for working on releases.I have a magnet laying the back to ketch springs. and to atach metal part pieces to. Spent 2 hours one night on my kitchen floor with a magnet.trying to find a little spring, To find it later in the door seal.
> 
> Later


INGENIOUS!


----------



## bbinford

Just ordered my Duck Hunting Boat Plans! I'll let yall know how it go's!


----------



## MA_Bowhunter

busman said:


> Has anyone ordered from carolinafalls.com? I was going to order the replacement batteries for some lighted nocks? I was just curious if anyone here has had any dealings with them. Prices seem really fair.
> 
> Thanks, Mike


I've ordered their replacement batteries. Shipping was fine; the batteries work great. I've never used the Thill batteries, so I don't know if they are the same, but they work well in my light nock setup (GT orange nocks).


----------



## cattrapper

Ttt


----------



## bbinford

ttt


----------



## jzc

:thumbs_up


----------



## Jerry/NJ

Something simple for folks who use binos alot. I have the bino harness and I dont like leaving my eye cup cover on when I am using my binos, so I put a small piece of string on the cover and tied a loop and connect it to the harness clip that holds the bino. When I get in my stand, I unclip the loop and put the cover in my pocket or backpack out of the way. 
Sorry the pics are a tad blurry.


----------



## Jerry/NJ

Unclipped


----------



## evworld

good stuff


----------



## bowkill87

*homemade stuff?*



Jerry/NJ said:


> *Ingredients for Scent Killer:
> 
> 16 oz. (2 cups) Peroxide
> 
> 16 oz. (2 cups) Distilled Water
> 
> ¼ cup baking soda
> 
> 1 oz. On non-scented shampoo
> 
> (Or adjust amounts to whatever size you make accordingly)
> 
> Let sit for several days (1 gallon milk jug works good with lid loose) *


So does this really work? I think that i might try it for next year. Hope it does. Thanks for the recipe:teeth:


----------



## Jerry/NJ

bowkill87 said:


> So does this really work? I think that i might try it for next year. Hope it does. Thanks for the recipe:teeth:


Yes, but dont ask me, ask the many people who use it  :thumbs_up


----------



## krwhite20

Lots of good Stuff :bump2:


----------



## dustyvarmint

*Turkey Pot & Striker*

Here is a turkey pot and striker I recently made. The wood is Ipe, a decking material. My hunting buddy in the photo keeps me in scraps. dv


----------



## YBSLO

*Home Made Arrow Saw*

I made this myself - I used a harbor freight mini chop saw.
Saved Big Bucks - Works Great To!!!!!!


----------



## FEATHER_RIDGE

dustyvarmint said:


> Here is a turkey pot and striker I recently made. The wood is Ipe, a decking material. My hunting buddy in the photo keeps me in scraps. dv



LOVE TO SEE CUSTOM CALLS , MAYBE IT`S MY COMPUTER BUT I DON`T SEE ANYTHING , I BUILD SEVERAL TYPE`S OF JIG`S TO BUILD DIAPHRAGM MOUTH CALL`S MAINLY FOR COMP. CALLERS ,,, BUT HAVE BUILT THEM FOR SEVERAL
BIG COMPANIES

FEATHER RIDGE


----------



## FEATHER_RIDGE

YBSLO said:


> I made this myself - I used a harbor freight mini chop saw.
> Saved Big Bucks - Works Great To!!!!!!


NICE SAW I JUST BOUGHT A HIGH SPEED ROUTER FROM HARBOR, GOING TO BUILD MYSELF A ARROW SAW POST SOME PIC`S WHEN COMPLETE

FEATHER RIDGE


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



dustyvarmint said:


> Here is a turkey pot and striker I recently made. The wood is Ipe, a decking material. My hunting buddy in the photo keeps me in scraps. dv



------
Hello dustyvarmint
For some of us that have are computers set tight ,and can't see your pic.

Would you be so kind as to type the Pictures address or link here so we can see the picture.

Later


----------



## dustyvarmint

*Link to turkey call*

Gents, for those who asked, here is a link to the turkey call from a Bowsite post (I am a little computer challenged):

http://forums.bowsite.com/tf/bgforums/thread.cfm?forum=14&threadid=324820&MESSAGES=11&FF=14

dv


----------



## outback1

up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:thumbs_up


----------



## Byron

dustyvarmint said:


> Gents, for those who asked, here is a link to the turkey call from a Bowsite post (I am a little computer challenged):
> 
> http://forums.bowsite.com/tf/bgforums/thread.cfm?forum=14&threadid=324820&MESSAGES=11&FF=14
> 
> dv


Here's your pic, dv. Very nice!










Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## FEATHER_RIDGE

dustyvarmint said:


> Here is a turkey pot and striker I recently made. The wood is Ipe, a decking material. My hunting buddy in the photo keeps me in scraps. dv




VERY NICE LOOKING CALL DV DO YOU ALSO MAKE MOUTH CALLS

FEATHER RIDGE


----------



## dustyvarmint

*Mouth Calls*

I have made squirrel tube calls and deer grunt calls in the past, but I can't find pics. 

dv


----------



## gr8martin

*Stuff*

Guys, I also make turkey calls. Mostly box calls and yelpers. Here are a few pics of the more decorative calls I make.


----------



## FEATHER_RIDGE

gr8martin said:


> Guys, I also make turkey calls. Mostly box calls and yelpers. Here are a few pics of the more decorative calls I make.


AWSOME LOOKING CALLS , MY HATS` OFF TO YA 

FEATHE RIDGE


----------



## huntaholic

Man, 

I had to go all the way down to Page 25 to find this thread again!!!!!

For those looking for the snap on type LED lights for the lighted nock, Academy now has them in stock and here's another website for them.

They're made by "Rod-n-Bobb's" now and it comes in a little package much like the Thill package.

I just can't remember if I got the Lucky Jack or the Disc Golf one. I think they're the same size.

Here's a link to their stuff:

Rod-N-Bobb's Replacement battery Light


By the way, for those who use the glow in the dark light sticks on your sights, they also have those for $3.50 a four pack:

Light Sticks


----------



## Antihunter

huntaholic said:


> Man,
> 
> I had to go all the way down to Page 25 to find this thread again!!!!!
> 
> For those looking for the snap on type LED lights for the lighted nock, Academy now has them in stock and here's another website for them.
> 
> They're made by "Rod-n-Bobb's" now and it comes in a little package much like the Thill package.
> 
> I just can't remember if I got the Lucky Jack or the Disc Golf one. I think they're the same size.
> 
> Here's a link to their stuff:
> 
> Rod-N-Bobb's Replacement battery Light
> 
> 
> By the way, for those who use the glow in the dark light sticks on your sights, they also have those for $3.50 a four pack:
> 
> Light Sticks


As far as the lighted glow sticks, look at the .25 cent dispencers at some restaraunts as you leave. The ones your kids always ask for money for. These sometimes have the lighted glow sticks in them for .25 or .50 cent and in different colors also.


----------



## PAstringking

*home made lighted nocks*

someone should do a begining to end write up with pics.

i would love to know more about the process


----------



## araz2114

Check out "you tube" and search lighted nocks. There is a video on how to do it.


----------



## Robert Ogden

*great posting*

any one has home made cat whiskers


----------



## Ohiorut

*Here are some of my homemade items*

The first is my bow rack/arrow rack that I made a year ago. It isn't as fansy as the one on the recent thread but it works. Took a weekend to design, cut, build, sand, stain. The second I just made recently. I got tired of having all my hunting accesories laying around so I built a cabinet to put all that in. Took another weekend to complete. It cost a little more than probably going and buying one already built, but I like woodworking so it was fun.

Bow rack/Arrow rack









Cabinet


----------



## ciscokid

Checkout this new Bow rack/Arrow rack

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=434334


----------



## gmherps

sweet stuff fellas.


----------



## cfdsmokeater

Just made some lighted nocks. And they are awesome!!! Had to make a trip to Gander Mtn. to pick up Rod-&-Bobs' lights (under $2 a piece--only had green though). Wally world had a place for the Thills but were out of stock.

Thanks for the info everyone!!!!
Joe.


----------



## cfdsmokeater

Pics.


----------



## neill91_maui

here is a video on how to make a home made lighted nock http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMqLT-4ezzk&NR


----------



## jersey hunter

can you make them for aluminums????


----------



## huntswithabow

*lighted nocks*

I did some research on the homemade lighted nocks... hears another thread about them, and how to turn them on when you release the string ... 

http://www.mdwfp.com/forums/post.asp?method=ReplyQuote&REPLY_ID=196786&TOPIC_ID=20570&FORUM_ID=7...

hunts


----------



## neill91_maui

jersey hunter said:


> can you make them for aluminums????


idk u probally can if u get nock bushings or whatver its called so that its like carbon arrow nocks i guess but im not 100% sure


----------



## jersey hunter

neill91_maui said:


> idk u probally can if u get nock bushings or whatver its called so that its like carbon arrow nocks i guess but im not 100% sure


thanks man, i'll look into it..


----------



## huntaholic

huntswithabow said:


> I did some research on the homemade lighted nocks... hears another thread about them, and how to turn them on when you release the string ...
> 
> http://www.mdwfp.com/forums/post.asp?method=ReplyQuote&REPLY_ID=196786&TOPIC_ID=20570&FORUM_ID=7...
> 
> hunts


There are some instructions here on those too, Byron and I have both made some that come on when you shoot. 

Byron's got pics of them on page 3 post #103 and #104
Instructions are on page 11, post #419.


----------



## bbinford

:thumbs_up :bump2:


----------



## Big Bull Joe

*This Thread Is Great!!!!*

:RockOn: :dancing: BY FAR ONE OF THE BEST THREADS!!!:thumbs_up


----------



## supermagnum

*Climbing treestand modification*








This is not "homemade" but a modification on my climbing treestand. I attached an Excalibur quiver mount to my stand so i can put my quiver directly onto it, the quiver goes on before climbing and does not get in the way for climbing or seeing around when sitting down. I put a camo fletching bag on to cover my vanes(colour), i can easily access my bolts or arrows.


----------



## PAstringking

^^^that is a great idea^^^

im going to attempt to do this when i get my new Fuse quiver!!


----------



## Luckybuck1

Who ever did the video for the lighted nocks that was awsome. Thanks. Cool to see the whole process.


----------



## cactus kid

why has this thread not gotten a sticky yet?


----------



## Live4Rut

cactus kid said:


> why has this thread not gotten a sticky yet?


It has already been in a sticky for quite awhile...


----------



## Camo Boy

Well guy's I did it, I made the lited noc and it works great lights up everytime.
I can't figure out how to post pics but there is enough of them all ready. 
Thanks to all the guys that wlked so many people through the steps, once you do 1 it's so easy to keep doing them


----------



## neill91_maui

jersey hunter said:


> thanks man, i'll look into it..


http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...&parentType=index&indexId=cat20063&hasJS=true i think for it to work u would need these and mess around with it


----------



## Luckybuck1

*Lighted nocks*

With those lighted nocks do oyu hace to drill them for that rear view if you use florescent transulcent nocks?


----------



## cfdsmokeater

Luckybuck1 said:


> With those lighted nocks do oyu hace to drill them for that rear view if you use florescent transulcent nocks?


I did for the white nock, but not for the flo red nock. I actually like the white setup better. I can see it in the daylight/dark better than the flo red. Pics are posted above on this page. I guess if I had a red light I would have drilled the small hole in the back of the flo red nock as well.


----------



## Red Rocker

I built this quad trailer.


----------



## YBSLO

Red Rocker said:


> I built this quad trailer.


Real Nice!!! Great Idea!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## MNmike

*fletch covers*

I made fletch covers for my quiver.


----------



## Luckybuck1

I want to say thanks for everyone's input on the lighted nocks. Finally built one and worked great on the first time. Used the Rob-Bob replacement batteries and had no problems. Didn't drill out the nock and it glowed bright enough for me. Going to try the green lights nexts to see how they work in the green nocks. This is so Cool!!!


----------



## huntaholic

Man that quad trailer looks good, may have to go build one!!!! Good idea with the angled sides and the drop front gate with the removable rear gate.


----------



## mbklmann

*Homemade Small Game Heads*

Heavy duty light weight plastic washer in between the field tip and the arrow.










And a bottle cap with a hole drilled in it. Also in between the arrow and the field point.


----------



## Greg

*Lots of great ideas here!*

I hunt out of tree stands, and ground blinds, but my favorite is ground blinds. I really like the blinds for scent containment, and I like leaving them in strategic spot, along funnels, ridges lines ect. To be super effective, they should stay up season after season, and the deer will get accustomed to them and not spook.One of my blinds I have had up now for 7 seasons, and have shot some nice bucks out of. I decided I needed to build another small one to put out where I have seen many deer crossing while scouting. After awhile, they will walk right past these blinds as they become part of their enviorment. This one is 7' long, 4' wide, and 7' tall. I bought the shell from a moving company (they are shipping crates) for only $20.00. First thing I did was to beef it up by puting screws in it to stop any squeaking. Next, I sealed all joints with caulk to keep it water tight, and to keep scent in. Then, I painted the entire inside of it black. Next I primed the outside of it with a good outdoor paint sealer. I used a fork lift to paint the bottom, as that is really important as moisture on the ground will rot the floor in a couole seasons if you don't. Then I bought 3 colores of camo paint (rattle cans) and did the camo job. I have about $45.00 dollars into paint. Later I cut my door (3 hinges) and put on a hasp lock. Then I got some plexaglass, and a cutter and made my windows. You have to drill the glass before using your screws or you might crack the glass. Then, I got a chair and put it inside and decided where and at what height to cut my shooting window. I designed the window so that I can slide it open when I want to shoot, or keep it closed for scent control I have app.$90.00 into it and it is complete Only thing left, is to maybe put a piece of carpet in it to muffle any foot noise, and install a hook for the bow holder, and maybe a shelf. I almost forgot, I also built the roof up to have a small peak to let the water drain, and put on a plastic tarp. Here are a few pictures, I have it now behind the shop where I work, but you can see it well enough to get the idea. Thanks for looking...


----------



## huntaholic

mbklmann said:


> Heavy duty light weight plastic washer in between the field tip and the arrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a bottle cap with a hole drilled in it. Also in between the arrow and the field point.



Did the one with the bottlecap change your point of impact any????


----------



## Luckybuck1

*Shipping crates*

Those blinds are awsome. What shipping company did you get them from?


----------



## Greg

Luckybuck1 said:


> Those blinds are awsome. What shipping company did you get them from?


Here in Minot, ND...I got it from Roger Ward North American (moving company) Check your yellow pages and call the various moving companys. Some of them probally sell them.


----------



## FearNot

Great ideas!


----------



## dustyvarmint

*Test II*

Here is a glass over slate turkey pot, 3 hickory strikers & 1 ipe striker. Shewwww! Learning to post pics made me sweat! dv


----------



## solohunter

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?p=4003629#post4003629
Solohunter


----------



## FEATHER_RIDGE

dustyvarmint said:


> Here is a glass over slate turkey pot, 3 hickory strikers & 1 ipe striker. Shewwww! Learning to post pics made me sweat! dv


GREAT LOOKING CALLS, GOTA LOVE IT !!!!!!!!!


----------



## silver_yummies

ttt - great stuff guys!


----------



## silver_yummies

ttt


----------



## Smokegrub

C'mon Mods!

Please make this a sticky. It has to be one of the more popular and useful threads on the site.


----------



## neill91_maui

ok guys and gals i got something interesting well last night i was messing around with m sight pin's and well i now have fishing line as my fiber optic i have .40 and .29 pins and i used 50 pound test line and green line i have to say i was suprised at how it worked i thought it would not work but it is just as brite as my old tru glo fibers. sorry no pics i can try to get some but it will be a little while.


----------



## neill91_maui

i changed some stuff around a hour ago i use ultra line from mustad it looks yellow and it works better but in the sight it looks green but any way i use 40 pound test now
for all of my pins and the diam on this 40lbs test line is 0.024


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*



neill91_maui said:


> ok guys and gals i got something interesting well last night i was messing around with m sight pin's and well i now have fishing line as my fiber optic i have .40 and .29 pins and i used 50 pound test line and green line i have to say i was suprised at how it worked i thought it would not work but it is just as brite as my old tru glo fibers. sorry no pics i can try to get some but it will be a little while.



Question here. Did you melt the end or used it raw.

Thanks


----------



## neill91_maui

i used a liter to roll over the edge's but dont like boil the line so that it bubbles just a little bit untill u see it start to widen at the end and then tap the end on the liter and pinch it and roll the end in ur fingers to get it smaller it took me a while to get it just right.


----------



## neill91_maui

i found that the ultra line from mustad works best from the companys i have tryed and if u want green pins get a yellowish looking line the will turn out a light green


----------



## neill91_maui

ok i was able to figure out this camera phone thing. this is not a good pic but it is in the dark it is about 6 inchs away from the pins there is no flash


----------



## cjsholes

*sight cover*

anybody have any ideas for a sight cover. I was going to use a scope cover, glue it on to the front of my trophy ridge, but nothing really fits right, and I was hoping to fabricate something that would look better. I don't know why TR doesn't make one. I heard that Copper John quit making theirs...


----------



## neill91_maui

the brand of line i use
 








the color of line i use it turns out a light green









these are my pin's in the house there is no light on in the house


----------



## Hunter Bob

*Bear claw necklace*

We shot a bear last year and would like to make some pendent neck laces with the claws. Has anyone done this? looking for ideas on how to do it. Thanks :darkbeer:


----------



## neill91_maui

To The Top!!!!


----------



## Unk Bond

neill91_maui said:


> To The Top!!!!


Hello
Did you ever try put a little light say a pin light on the end or side of the line.To see what endof the line looked like. Do it the same way we now do fibers.

Later


----------



## TWM_99

I just looked through all 23 pages. Simply AMAZING


----------



## cactus kid

i know! so many ideas!


----------



## Unk Bond

cactus kid said:


> i know! so many ideas!



Hello Kid
Put them on paper and share them with us.:wink:


----------



## SDeadeye

I know it's not quite bow related, but there is one in the picture:tongue: ...My gun cabinet that I made during my senior year of HS. Started it in shop class and finished it at home. Made out of oak and oak plywood, the windows are 1/4" lexan so it's "somewhat" harder for a person to just walk in and smash the windows to steal our guns. The bottom has a display case for pistols or knives and whatnot. The lights are controlled by tapping the middle hinge with your finger...that always amazes people that see it at the house. I got the plans from Popular Mechanics if I remember right and then modified them a little bit from there.


----------



## SDeadeye

I did the lighted nocks too. I love em they work great for practicing towards dark, but I'm not sure that they're legal to use for hunting here in SD. Either way they're fun to play around with, it's like shooting a lazer when the sun is starting to go down. I just used my same flo. green nocks and put the red lights inside them. I did one with green too but that doesn't show up as good on the target as the red does. At least when the light didn't disappear, I could tell which arrow I didn't hit when I heard that nice thud that means you're out another $12. The 2nd one down has the lighted nock, but the flash kind of took away from how bright they actually are.


----------



## bowhuntin_KS

*home made dropaway*

the other night i was messing with an old nap quicktune 7or800 that had broke, and i rig'd it to be a drop away for an old reflex bighorn i had layin around. i will say that it drops alot faster then my tropytaker does.. kinda supriseing. I firgure total cost was like $15.00 when the rest was new 4 years ago, and like $.30 to make it a dropaway

I will post pics when i get em.. it shoots very well, i was suprised


----------



## neill91_maui

Unk Bond said:


> Hello
> Did you ever try put a little light say a pin light on the end or side of the line.To see what endof the line looked like. Do it the same way we now do fibers.
> 
> Later


i have tryed a light at the end of the optic's but it does not work it works if u but the light within 2 inch's from the pin and closer i had a light one it befor but dont want it one because it is nto ment for the bow sight and it is a pain the last picture of my pin's had no sight light.


----------



## Hoyt Hunter

I was wanting to make a tradional quiver like the leather ones out of deer skin or coat one with deer skin. Anybody know how


----------



## white00crow

Ok here is a My bow work shop nothing big but it works great for fixing most normal repairs, D-loops, srting serving ect...


----------



## XP35

I made a STS type device today. The only different thing about it is that it attaches to the side of a Hoyt riser. It is not mounted at the front stab hole. I will make a prettier. lighter one soon. This is just a test really to see if mounting it where it is will work. It is mounted to the small 1/4-20 tapped hole below and behind the grip on a Hoyt riser. I am seeing if it will stay put and not rotate without a set screw and where a set screw hole needs to be if it does turn. A good use for that little hole and the weight does offset accessories. 



















I have shot here in the house with it and it does reduce felt vibration after the shot and makes it a little quieter. The bow has no string silencers on it and it seems pretty quiet, but it was pretty quiet before.


----------



## 3barrels

*Wow!!!*

Just wanted to say that I love this thread. I have read it front to back and as of now I have an arrow saw almost completed, a bow press with pretty much all the parts gathered (now just have to put it together), getting ready to put together the parts for a bow vice, and the lighted nocks are in the works as well. It'll be a couple of weeks to get everything done but I have an unbelievable wooden 4 sided / 2 shelf on wheels display shelf from a store that I'm going to mount everything on. The thing is 4' wide by 6' long. When I get it done I will have an easily movable bow shop for the garage. THANKS EVERYONE!!!


----------



## huntnfishguy

Byron,

Just a quick note on the thill replacement battery. I have been hunting high & low for the push batterys. They are getting hard to find, as Lindy has been putting out new ones that only twist to turn on. Found a couple at a local fishing shop. I ended up calling Lindy today, and have been advised that they are returning to to push type. Good news for all who like to make their own and save a few bucks too.


----------



## Byron

Thanks for the good news! :star:


----------



## Unk Bond

Hey Guys heres a release I made some time back.


----------



## neill91_maui

Unk Bond said:


> Hey Guys heres a release I made some time back.


that looks nice!!!


----------



## rivr_runnr

*Lighted nock*

first time out I got 4 out of 6 to work. not sure about the pin thing, i super glued them in and i am going to see how long that lasts. the pin worked, but a little extra work if you dont have a dremel cut off. I watched the youtube video and went from there. what a great post guys. thanks!


----------



## IA Monsterbuck

Great thread, some really creative ideas!


----------



## pirogue53

Hunter Bob said:


> We shot a bear last year and would like to make some pendent neck laces with the claws. Has anyone done this? looking for ideas on how to do it. Thanks :darkbeer:


Copy what Griz had in the movie, "JEREMIAH JOHNSON"


----------



## Lerie

*Wrist Sling*

Love this site and all of you ATers that contribute. Now its my time to finally contribute something to this great thread.

This won't save you a lot of money over a commercially available product, however if you like making your own things, or simply wish to get started with something simple - here's what I make for myself - a wrist sling.

Componets are simple: bailer belting 3/16 camo cord, 5/16-24 button.

Tools needed: Razor knife and 7/16" hollow punch.

I buy the bailer belting from Tractor Supply. They generally have in stock 2 different widths. I purchase the 5 inch wide. The cost is somewhere around $2.99/foot. The next step is to cut off a 1 inch wide strip off the 5 inch wide bailer belting, ending with a 1"x5" piece. For the cutting I use a razor knife and use a square as a guide.

Next step is to premark where you will punching out your 3 holes. I will center the 1st one and mark the outer 2 at 1.5 and 3.5 inches. To simplyfy, from the end you will have made marks at 1.5, 2.5 and 3.5 inches centered on the 1 inch width.

The ensuing step is to punch out your holes with the hollow punch. I place the bailer belt on a scap pice of 2x4 and then hit it with a hammer until the hole is punched through.

Then comes the easy part of cutting off a 19 inch piece of the 3/16 camo cord. On my Mathews I mount it on the backside and that's where the 5/16-25 button screw is used. If you were to attach it to the front of your riser at the stabilizer, you may need to cut a bigger piece of the cord. Pass the cord through the outermost holes, tie off, adjust for fit, then melt the tag end that's left.

I figure that I have somewhere around 50 cents tied up in my homemade wrist sling. If you mount yours through the stabilizer, you might have about 35 cents into it.

While I have never tested this, it is my theory that this wrist sling of mine obsorbs some of the shock of the shot.

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me - Paul aka Lerie

For some reason that I can't figure at this time, the pictures that I wanted to include fail to upload. Will post this and try to submit photos.


----------



## Lerie

*Wrist Sling Pictures*

Trying again and still not working.


----------



## cactus kid

made this today! i have 10 bucks invested in it total.

I used a ceramic flooring tile from homedepot and a shelf mounting bracket. took about thirty minutes to make, and cost less than the mass produced ones. hope ya like


----------



## greenxlt

My turn! Here's some pics of my homebrew shop, and my target stand/paper tuning rack.


----------



## greenxlt

Here's the PVC rack


----------



## bryanmhoff

*Shooting Machine*

Ok guys/gals, has anyone ever constructed a homemade shooting machine similar to the Spot Hogg "Hooter Shooter"? Any information would be most appreciated. Hooter Shooters link is below if you've never seen this device.

http://www.spot-hogg.com/product_hooter_shooter.shtml


----------



## SC Archer

*?*

any one know how to make a homemade finger sling? there cheap but im a college student with no money


----------



## practice-more

unityturbotec said:


> any one know how to make a homemade finger sling? there cheap but im a college student with no money


I've got one. All you need is an 8" piece of braided rope (1/8" diameter or so) and a piece of serving. Just loop the rope around your finger and back to itself, and once you got the size just serve the end back to the middle part of the rope. 
I will take a picture of mine tomorrow and post it for you.

I suppose that you could also tie the end back to the center with a slip knot so you could adjust the loop size later.

Anyway, I will get you a pict tomorrow.

Mitch


----------



## Dodgedude

V bars, and bracket, to shoot spots with my hunting bow.


----------



## BOOTOXEN

Ttt


----------



## practice-more

I got busy at the range the other night, but I will try to get Finger Sling pictures up in the next day or so. 

Mitch


----------



## Whitefeather

Dodgedude said:


> V bars, and bracket, to shoot spots with my hunting bow.


What are we aiming at there in the living room? TV, picture on the wall, idiot neighbor through the window? :wink: 

Nice v-bar. What's the material and how'd you do it?

JP


----------



## bryanmhoff

bryanmhoff said:


> Ok guys/gals, has anyone ever constructed a homemade shooting machine similar to the Spot Hogg "Hooter Shooter"? Any information would be most appreciated. Hooter Shooters link is below if you've never seen this device.
> 
> http://www.spot-hogg.com/product_hooter_shooter.shtml


TTT, come on guys


----------



## reflex shooter

bryanmhoff said:


> TTT, come on guys


Grant on the "Mythbusters" made one for the Robin Hood episode I know.


----------



## Dodgedude

*V bar info*



Whitefeather said:


> What are we aiming at there in the living room? TV, picture on the wall, idiot neighbor through the window? :wink:
> 
> Nice v-bar. What's the material and how'd you do it?
> 
> JP


JP did you see my thread about in house practice?  Click if you missed it.

The V-bars are made as follows. Bear in mind that the Mrs. is trying :wink: to keep me on a budget. Anyway.

1/2" EMT conduit, with 5/16-24 nuts epoxied into both ends. 12" long.
5/16-24 bolts 1 1/4" for the back. Allows adding 5/16 fender washers for balancing.

The V-bar bracket is 14ga by 1" wide flat steel. 3/8" center hole, out 2" each way for the bend, @ 45deg. The bent leg is 1 1/4 with the hole drilled at 5/8" from the end. This hole is also 3/8" to allow epoxy around the bolt to secure it. This one,actually 2, is 5/16-24 x 3/4".

Spray painted with appliance epoxy, shiny and durable.

If I had to do it again, and I probably will, I would make the center section of the bracket smaller. Something like 1" to 1 1/4". And I think I would make the bends 30 deg. instead of 45.


----------



## bryanmhoff

reflex shooter said:


> Grant on the "Mythbusters" made one for the Robin Hood episode I know.


Cool, I'll have to try to find a pic.


----------



## dtl2441

*kayaks*

Well a buddy and I have been hunting elk off the coast of WA using kayaks for years. The store bought kayaks just did not carry enough so I made some molds and built kayaks. With two of these kayaks we can carry out a big bull in one trip. The yellow one is one I made for my wife. Then I made some camo ones. We also use these for duck hunting.


----------



## Dodgedude

That is one cool pic!

Did you make your kayak out of fiberglass?


----------



## Mathews LD

huntaholic said:


> Here's the picture of the Nite Brite Lite and what the finished product should look like. I put another one next to the nock so you would be able to see how deep to drill the second hole in the nock. I'll try to get pictures of the nocks in my target tonight as well.



Where did you buy the Lights?:confused2:


----------



## Guest

I have a chippewa wedge lock tree stand, and I wanted to have some extra rigging harnesses for them, but the company was selling extra ones for about 30 bucks a piece. I knew the materials invoved would not cost me nearly as much, so I made my own. The only thing I couldn't replicate totally was that they have neoprene discs to keep the chain away from the tree enough to put the wedge behind. I cut up a treated post (AC2) to use instead. It accomplishes the same thing. it is weatherproof, and will keep critters from chewing on it. It also helped with the fact that there were a lot of trees I couldn't hang the chain in because it wasn't long enough. I made some of varying sizes.

here is a pic of their chain, and then a couple views of mine:


----------



## dtl2441

*Dodgedude*

Yes they are made out of fiberglass. I have made a total of 5 so far. It took me the better part of a year dinking in the garage to make the molds. I went around to the local fiberglass companies and borrowed the best design ideas from them all.


----------



## BOWHUNTINGMOOSE

the lighted site instructions can be found at www.youTube.com try using the search HOMEADE LIGHTED NOCK. I also be going to w-mart tomorrow.


----------



## Lone Bow

nice boats, I have used mine for several years on Lake Roosevelt slipping quietly along the shoreline with my bow mounted in front of me sneeking up on nice whitetails.


----------



## dtl2441

*Another Kayak Photo.*

Just thought I would attach another Kayak photo


----------



## phumb

Eight_Oak_Acres said:


> I have a chippewa wedge lock tree stand, and I wanted to have some extra rigging harnesses for them, but the company was selling extra ones for about 30 bucks a piece. I knew the materials invoved would not cost me nearly as much, so I made my own. The only thing I couldn't replicate totally was that they have neoprene discs to keep the chain away from the tree enough to put the wedge behind. I cut up a treated post (AC2) to use instead. It accomplishes the same thing. it is weatherproof, and will keep critters from chewing on it. It also helped with the fact that there were a lot of trees I couldn't hang the chain in because it wasn't long enough. I made some of varying sizes.
> 
> here is a pic of their chain, and then a couple views of mine:


haven't done it, but i think tennis balls might work....


----------



## j.d.m.

o5 allegiance mods. homemade upper and lower string stoppers, custom made rest bracket, modified rest. There is vertually no kick or hand shock at all now, and queit enough, i can hold off on buying a gardian.


----------



## Hunter031069

*LED knocks*

The guys at Non-tyical outdoors (NTO) have a new video out that has an improved knock design that costs about $3 to build but comes on automatically when the arrow is shot. I met these guys at a Sportsman's show here in Vermont, they are from Maine and are great guys. Their website is www.ntovideo.com. In the special features section they show how to make the knocks and almost all of the the bow hunts in the video show how well they work. Not one arrow lost. When videoing a hunt it is easy to determine exactly how good the shot was which helps to decide whether to wait till morning or go after the animal now etc.

Enjoy.




huntaholic said:


> byron,
> 
> You have to turn them on before you shoot. It's simply done by removing the nock and pushing the Nite Brite Lite into the nock then re-inserting the nock back into the arrow.
> 
> Also if you are using them for hunting I suggest a Black nock. This way the only light you see will be from the little hole you drill in the rear of the nock after you release the arrow. ALL other nock colors WILL glow.
> 
> Pay attention to the drilling because if you drill the larger hole out too large your light will go out as soon as you release the arrow or when it hit's the target, depending on how loose the fit is in the nock.
> 
> You really want a snug fit there. I know some guys that just cram the Nite Brite Lite in the nock, you can do this too, just drill the smaller hole out in the end of the nock and stuff away!! The only problem with this route is it makes it difficult to turn the light off when you are done using it or you end up bending the Nite Brite Lite and that's just a pain in the ARSE!!!!


----------



## KELLY

Hunter031069 said:


> The guys at Non-tyical outdoors (NTO) have a new video out that has an improved knock design that costs about $3 to build but comes on automatically when the arrow is shot. I met these guys at a Sportsman's show here in Vermont, they are from Maine and are great guys. Their website is www.ntovideo.com. In the special features section they show how to make the knocks and almost all of the the bow hunts in the video show how well they work. Not one arrow lost. When videoing a hunt it is easy to determine exactly how good the shot was which helps to decide whether to wait till morning or go after the animal now etc.
> 
> Enjoy.


I can't find the "special features section"


----------



## Byron

Hunter031069 said:


> The guys at Non-tyical outdoors (NTO) have a new video out that has an improved knock design that costs about $3 to build but comes on automatically when the arrow is shot. I met these guys at a Sportsman's show here in Vermont, they are from Maine and are great guys. Their website is www.ntovideo.com. In the special features section they show how to make the knocks and almost all of the the bow hunts in the video show how well they work. Not one arrow lost. When videoing a hunt it is easy to determine exactly how good the shot was which helps to decide whether to wait till morning or go after the animal now etc.
> 
> Enjoy.


Are you going to share how it's done, or are you just advertising their videos?

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## Lone Bow

KELLY said:


> I can't find the "special features section"


I wasen't able to find it either, and I looked repeatedly.


----------



## Byron

Lone Bow said:


> I wasen't able to find it either, and I looked repeatedly.


I suspect he is referencing the _Special Features_ section of the DVD for sale at that site.

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## WI Moose

ttt


----------



## 3barrels

*ttt*

thanks to all of you I am making everything myself now. (my wife is going to let you all have it lol) here is my first bow press. I have also made a bow vise that I seen on here selling for $50 bucks that I hve $0 in thanks to the scrap pile, I'll have pictures of it soon. thanks to everyone and this is a great thread.


----------



## stixshooter

Now that is cool !


----------



## neill91_maui

ttt


----------



## Komi

Ne_Archer said:


> I got some plans for a homemade treestand.


I would love the directions for the stand. "B"


----------



## huntaholic

H.creek guide said:


> Where did you buy the Lights?:confused2:


I've been finding them at Academy sports, under the name Rod-N-Bob's replacement LED's. I believe I posted them in this thread a few pages back, if not go here to see what you're looking for:

Rod-N-Bobb's Battery Lights


----------



## huntaholic

Hunter031069 said:


> The guys at Non-tyical outdoors (NTO) have a new video out that has an improved knock design that costs about $3 to build but comes on automatically when the arrow is shot. I met these guys at a Sportsman's show here in Vermont, they are from Maine and are great guys. Their website is www.ntovideo.com. In the special features section they show how to make the knocks and almost all of the the bow hunts in the video show how well they work. Not one arrow lost. When videoing a hunt it is easy to determine exactly how good the shot was which helps to decide whether to wait till morning or go after the animal now etc.
> 
> Enjoy.


Once again, I've posted instructions here for free on how to make the automatic on/off nocks. That quote you got from me was way back when we first started making them, after tinkering with them for a little bit I figured a way to mae them auto on/off.

If you care to look through the entire thread those instructions should be in here. If not I'll be more than happy to PM them to those who would like them.

Not to mention I've posted the You-Tube video in my profile for others to view.

Hunt.


----------



## Komi

ozhuntsman said:


> here is my cross-hair .................


Can I get directions for this rear sight????


----------



## Buckwacker181

i dont know if anyone has posted this yet on this thread because i dont feel like looking through each post, but i have a recipe for a homeade mineral lick that works amazing. go to a local feed store or farm supplies store at purchase:
2 bags of red trace mineral, 100lbs
1 bag loose stock salt, 50lbs
1 bag dicalcium phosphate, 50lbs

use a large coffee cup for mixing, two part red trace mineral, one part stock salt, one part dical phosphate. dig about a 3 foot in diamter area about 6in deep and mix in the minerals. deer love it, and we've been killing bigger bucks than we ever have on our farm.


----------



## j.d.m.

*more stuff*

Here is more stuff i made including bow press, bow vise, lighted nock, arrow shaft collar for nock end (on end of arrow in pic). arrow spinner, climbing steps for tree stand, arrow cut off saw, arrow squaring tool. also made bow holder to stick in ground while using blind. I also made total 4 tree stands( 2 climbers, 2 stainless steel hang on stands with seats. I just had to show someone as my wife doesn't appreciate this stuff as others do.


----------



## turkeyinstinct

Here is a couple of wingbone yelpers I make.


----------



## araz2114

JDM what is the arrow shaft collar? Does it check nock straightness? Do you have a better pic?

We appreciate it more than your wife EVER will :darkbeer: :darkbeer:


----------



## J-BRU-72

i made a deerhide grip cover & wrist sling...i was bored


----------



## huntaholic

j.d.m. said:


> Here is more stuff i made including bow press, bow vise, lighted nock, arrow shaft collar for nock end (on end of arrow in pic). arrow spinner, climbing steps for tree stand, arrow cut off saw, arrow squaring tool. also made bow holder to stick in ground while using blind. I also made total 4 tree stands( 2 climbers, 2 stainless steel hang on stands with seats. I just had to show someone as my wife doesn't appreciate this stuff as others do.


That's some mighty fine craftsmanship you have there!!

especially like the bowholder you have there.


----------



## timberwolf1253

Thanks for all the good infos and ideas for making a lighted nock,
since I have still the old aluminum arrows it was kind of not working good, so I cam up with
taking out the nock insert of the arrow and welded the battery right in to the insert with liquid weld, make shore the nock dos not get welded on to, if it comes to far down in to the insert cut about 1/8 of the nock neck, this way it will not glue the nock to the insert.works exellent now.
I go and hunt spring bear after easter.


----------



## timberwolf1253

*Bow Holster*

Never let go your weapon.
This is my bow holster also practical for rifle, it is very handy when you walking the whole day


----------



## j.d.m.

araz2114, i would tell you, but your a red wings fan..... I'm just kidding, the shaft collar is for protecting the end of the carbon shaft from the light up nocks. the nocks that i make and or buy, have the 2 little led leads sticking out the sides that make contact with the end of the shaft to light it up. those little leads will dig into the end of the shaft and sometimes the light doesn't come on because of bad contact. also a piece of mind that the leads won't start a crack in the shaft.


----------



## j.d.m.

Here is a close up of the collar. you can probubly get them from Carbon Express, but i don't know if they have them for every diameter shaft.So i just spun out my own.


----------



## WI Moose

Here are some pics of a homemade press that I built about a month ago. I have to paint it yet. I built it so I can be dissassembled and stored in a tote or something. That way I can take it on trips, but mainly I live in an apartment and just can't have it stay assembled.


----------



## mwbowhunter

*Illuminated nocks*

i bought some of the thill lights but you have to twist the led to turn em on they dont turn on if you push down on them


----------



## J8 10-27

WI Moose said:


> Here are some pics of a homemade press that I built about a month ago. I have to paint it yet. I built it so I can be dissassembled and stored in a tote or something. That way I can take it on trips, but mainly I live in an apartment and just can't have it stay assembled.


:mg: How heavy is Hercules' bow?


----------



## WaterboyUT

WOW! There is some awesome stuff on here. I've never taken the time to look through it before.


----------



## [email protected]

Here's my bo-pod. All you need is a couple old arrows cut anywhere from 10-16" depending on the bow you have. A piece of flat aluminum strap approx. 1/8x3/4x2.5",2 screw in points,& 2 screw in saunders blunt pts.After cutting the arrows to the proper length, install inserts in both ends of both arrows. Drill a 5/16" hole in the center of the alum. strap & a 13/64" on each end of strap as close to the edge as you can. With a couple pairs of vice grips,bend the strap as shown .Use your stabilizer or a bolt that fits the stabilizer hole to attach the strap to your bow. With the target points thru the strap, screw the legs on. Screw the blunts on for feet & carefully spread the legs apart to support the bow. VIOLA ! YA GOT ER DONE ! Terrific in ground blinds & you can shoot with them on with no problems at all.GREAT THREAD!!:thumb:


----------



## HootOwl81

to cool


----------



## bennymj171

This is the best thread i have ever came accross, i can't wait to try making so lighted nocks. thanks to everyone that posted


----------



## bbaumer

*Press*

Originally posted this over in the General Archery forum. See complete discussion here:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=480713

Here are a few progress and finished pics of my homemade press based not-so-loosely on the EZ Press. Last pic shows a Vectrix XL being pressed. The clamp on the string is just weighting the string down to demonstrate the bow being pressed.


----------



## Dodgedude

Cool press!

Where'd you score the hand wheel?


----------



## day counter

i got some thill nite brites today also but they twist to turn on, not the push on type. did i get the wrong style of lite or will they work.


----------



## turkeyinstinct

Wow that is a sweet press. Great job!


----------



## huntaholic

day counter said:


> i got some thill nite brites today also but they twist to turn on, not the push on type. did i get the wrong style of lite or will they work.



wrong ones . . . need the push on type. 

If you only opened one package return the rest, and keep that one. Put it in your target at 20 yards and it'll give you something to shoot at!!


----------



## Antihunter

huntaholic said:


> wrong ones . . . need the push on type.
> 
> If you only opened one package return the rest, and keep that one. Put it in your target at 20 yards and it'll give you something to shoot at!!


Yep, this works good in the summer when it is to hot,after it gets dark and it cools off. Pop a light in the target and shoot on.


----------



## jersey hunter

you could try HOCKEY PUCKS...very hard...



Eight_Oak_Acres said:


>


----------



## bbaumer

Dodgedude said:


> Cool press!
> 
> Where'd you score the hand wheel?


Thanks.

Got it off a junk steam condensate receiver and pump station out of an old building.

You can probably get a similar one from a commercial plumbing contractor. All kinds of plumbing valves use handles like this.


----------



## JustOneMoreShot

Great thread everyone! Love all the lighted nok pictures. I did think that I would see more DIY trail cameras??? 
Keep up the ideas and pictures!
:darkbeer:


----------



## Unk Bond

Drog said:


> Unk- Can you post instructions?


Hrllo
Sorry I missed your post. Going back through all the pages.I found it. The bow simulater picture, pretty much explains its self.Now the item not shown is the spring.This is found in a hard ware.Its a spring that is used for bending copper tubeing. One end of this spring is funnel shaped .That end is placed in the tappered galvanize fitting with a plug screw in.Were as the sping won't come out when the shot is made.The tappered part of the spring fits nice in the tappered part of the gavanized fitting.Also one can add silacone inside the fitting for quiteness.
Bow Simualter can be found on page 9.Ihave even made them with v bars.Just use your imagination 
Later


----------



## Buckedup

Byron said:


> I went to Wal-Mart and Bass Pro today - came up with a total of ONE Nite Brite! I'll play around with it this weekend. I did a Google search and found a thread on the Bowsite that added a twist - installing the neck section of another nock inside the shaft to allow the Nite Brite to be turned on automatically upon release. I'll be playing around with it this weekend.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Byron


Bass Pro shops is THE BIGGEST disappointment EVER!!!! They put one in close to my home in Harrisburg PA, been there several times and have left there satisfied only once, and that time I only stopped to use the bathroom! Seriously. I think the extent of the employee training program there is to teach them how to give directions to get to the Gander Mountain across town.


----------



## jgregoire687

I just finished my lock box for my game cam. Too many trespassers and thieves. This was made from 1/8" steel that came off the body of an old fire truck and a litte angle iron.


----------



## day counter

sticky


----------



## bow duke ny

ttt


----------



## BukWild

bump, I'm liking this thread!


----------



## myimpala1

*Camera mount*

Made this nice little camera mount for my small sony camera i had. Hopefully now i can cath all my hunting mistakes on film. :tongue:


----------



## Buckedup

gr8martin said:


> Guys, I also make turkey calls. Mostly box calls and yelpers. Here are a few pics of the more decorative calls I make.


Yeah but you don't take them in the woods do ya, they are too pretty


----------



## BOOTOXEN

Made this center adjustable press. Similar :wink: to one sombody sells here on AT. Cost....$40 and about 2 hours of work. Less if your set up.

Photo to follow.....have prints on Pdf if anyone is interested.


----------



## BruinBowhunter

*Homemade String Suppressor*

Has anyone fabricated their own ? I have been looking at all of these and they seem relatively similar in function. If you are not interested in a camo one it appears that these could be fabricated quite easily out of a spare cable guard cut to length. Thread the guard into the rear stabilizer threads in the back of your riser and add the bow jax and stopper. All of these parts can be purchased seperately and shouldn't cost more than $20.00.


----------



## Dodgedude

Back up top


----------



## Rod Slinger

*Great Thread!*

Ttt


----------



## jdcamo

[email protected] said:


> Here's my bo-pod. All you need is a couple old arrows cut anywhere from 10-16" depending on the bow you have. A piece of flat aluminum strap approx. 1/8x3/4x2.5",2 screw in points,& 2 screw in saunders blunt pts.After cutting the arrows to the proper length, install inserts in both ends of both arrows. Drill a 5/16" hole in the center of the alum. strap & a 13/64" on each end of strap as close to the edge as you can. With a couple pairs of vice grips,bend the strap as shown .Use your stabilizer or a bolt that fits the stabilizer hole to attach the strap to your bow. With the target points thru the strap, screw the legs on. Screw the blunts on for feet & carefully spread the legs apart to support the bow. VIOLA ! YA GOT ER DONE ! Terrific in ground blinds & you can shoot with them on with no problems at all.GREAT THREAD!!:thumb:



I like this Very nice!


----------



## Whitefeather

bump


----------



## Nexus6

Ya know, we all ought to applaude ourselves for being inventive. I have made lots of stuff over the years either because there was a need and could not find one to buy or I needed something I could buy but said "heck, I can make one cheaper".

I made a hydraulic press years back from plans posted for sale on the Internet. $5 for the plans, $30 for material and I had a super press. Wish I still had it.

I believe that some people enjoy archery because it is something that always has something new come out from someone's imagination. I wonder what an English Bowman would think of an APA Black Mamba if he saw one or the holding weight of a compound? Or scopes for sights?

And one thing I have learned over many years, you don't have to be an engineer to come up with a great idea and fabricate it. Everyone has the ability.

On the down side, we all have boxes full of inventions that turned out to work but were too heavy, they did not work better than what we had, or sometimes just did not work. I think you can tell an archer's trash because there are broken arrows AND projects that did not make it. That reminds me, it is time to look through my scape pile for material for a bow holder like the one I saw in a catalog. Heck, I can make one cheaper!! :bounce:


----------



## whitetailkiller

6bloodychunks said:


> thats what im going to use it for first ! then ill be using it for deer also,since i hunt deer from the ground , i used it at a 3d shoot yesterday and it worked great. XP35,if i make another , ill send ya one ,just use a couple equal length pieces of carbon arrow cut so it stands straight! i see it this way zero cost is good!!!




are you going to start selling these?lol good idea...now i gotta find some motor mounts!!!!!!


----------



## outback1

up


----------



## Gerhard

ttt


----------



## [email protected]

If you hav'nt checked this post out you are missing alot!It's been a week & no new inventions. Post up! Bump sticky Bump!:bump2:


----------



## Komi

I am using a sattellite dish mount base like you see on the side of a house and the post that comes up from there to mount my trail cam up higher and I can then aim it at a downward angel and I like this as it puts the camera about the line of sight and when yuseing one with a flash the deer think it is lighting as it is above them and not straight at them. It also is good because it keeps the cam up and somewhat out of sight so it is more concealed. I will try and get some pics up as soon as I can.


----------



## Komi

Who gets post 1000????? I DO!!!


----------



## gshock300

ive been trying to source some of those battery light replacements here in australia and no ones even heard of them!
you guys have been saying that alot of them are twist on and off now... i was wondering why it cant work if you just twist your nock to turn on and off instead of pushing and pulling?


----------



## d1&only

Using the push/pull allows the nock to be off untill you shoot the arrow. The forward motion pushes the light on.


----------



## [email protected]

gshock300 said:


> ive been trying to source some of those battery light replacements here in australia and no ones even heard of them!
> you guys have been saying that alot of them are twist on and off now... i was wondering why it cant work if you just twist your nock to turn on and off instead of pushing and pulling?


I just ordered some thill nite brite replacement batteries from cabelas & they are the twist type. They do work, you just have to turn them on before the shot. I still want to find the push on-pull off type.


----------



## hockeybuck

This was a Charvel Jackson guitar case that I gutted and retrofit for my Bowtech Tribute.


----------



## mdewitt71

Hockeybuck, that is cool....I really like the case. :thumbs_up
It would match my Nuge arrows and Quiver. :wink:


----------



## Trufire06

bump


----------



## PAstringking

hockeybuck...that is an awesome case minus the zebra print...but thats all personal preference.


----------



## phk691

Heres a security trail camera bracket I make.I actually sell these on ebay.


----------



## phk691

Heres what the sold product looks like.


----------



## Bowhunter57

*Make your own Camo Carry Bag!*

I made this Camo Carry Bag for my groundblind. It's of heavier construction than any factory offering, so it will last longer....and it's camo. :thumb:

www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=503385

Good hunting, Bowhunter57


----------



## irkr

I FINALLY found some of the push/pull Thill lights to try some lighted nocks. I'd been watching the racks for a while and finally found a whole rack of them!
KR


----------



## predator86

oh my god this thread has filled my head full of ideas.....i cant wait to go home and get to work!!!!!!! thanks to everyone who contributed!!!!


----------



## gshock300

Hey guys,

Im afraid to order any of those lights cause its going to cost abit to send them here to aussie and I dont want to buy a whole heap of the wrong ones.
would anyone be willing to buy some of the push pull ones for me at your local shop and mail them over? 

thanks
Dan


----------



## chambers7867

i just got done designing my not so home made, home made bowvice. 
it's still a little ruff but here it is:










the frame and legs are going to be made of 6061 1 1/2 (1 1/4 inner wall) square stock.

the arms are going to be made out of solid 6061-t651 for added strength. and im going to make the rollers out of some uhwm i have laying around the shop, and the major joints are held together by lbrackets im making out of 6051 alum. for easy dissasembly. should look and work good, be a little more light weight then some of the other's i've seen floating around. tell me what u think!


----------



## Angela

We build our own bow strings & cables and fletch our own arrows. That really cuts down on cost. We've been doing that for about 15+ years (since my husband was 19).


----------



## JSWRLD

*bump*

very cool thread:thumbs_up:thumbs_up:thumbs_up


----------



## redneckarcher29

Nice Nice work, Keep it up!!!


----------



## Hornsgalore

*arrow saw*

built this in about an hour. Had a Dewalt roto-zip and an aluminum yardstick laying around and got an idea.


----------



## irkr

gshock you have a pm.
KR


----------



## cdfirefighter1

here is the arrow saw I built... works very well... I used the harbor freight mini chop saw $19 plu sshipping.. the rest of the stuff I had laying around


----------



## Komi

*Trail cam mount....*

Rather then spending $60 on a mount for a trial cam I used an old Dishmount and came up with this: 



























I have it up about 6-8' off ground and aiming at the mineral lick and seems to have good view I like it and it cost my less then $12!!!!


----------



## Nexus6

> We build our own bow strings & cables and fletch our own arrows. That really cuts down on cost.


 I haven't got into the strings yet, mainly because I know that if I buy Vapor Trails, neither I nor any shop in the area can make that good a string. I do change the string, twist the string, put peep on string, and replace the center serving on the string and find that it has really reduced the cost AND I am the only person in the loop. If I make a goof, I can take the pain. I can't take the pain of going to a so-called Pro Shop and getting crummy worksmanship. I don't know who is handing out the certificates they have on the wall that says they are certified technicians, must be mail order. Those technicians are great at selling new stuff you don't need, running down the product you have (if you did not buy from them) and telling you bull excuses why your equipment does not work. For example, I own an old Pearson Anaconda and when it was new I just went right down to my local shop to get an expert to set it up. He set the center shot way off and then claimed the only way you could shoot my bow was to torque it so that the arrow lines up with the sight window and punch the trigger. And also, "nobody that he has seen with one of those bows with the offset handle could shoot one-need to buy a HOYT". Anyway, I not only do my own work but I make the tools sometimes to do it. A few sticks put together separates cable and string for serving. A square tubing that has 5/16 x 24 captive screw is my bow holder for the ratchet press and serving.


----------



## bevins587

I like the idea of using old dish brackets for camera mounts. This thread would be a trashmans or dump workers dream. They can now find a use for all the stuff they have saved.


----------



## Iflinched

*Neet home made stuff*

I don't know if this is a homemade tool, but the plans and prototypes started at home. This little tool (6.5 oz.) will pull field points 2, 3, and 4 blade broadheads. It works so well it is scary easy. You can see how they work at www.flinchoutdoorgear.com 

Crap! Where did the pictures go? Who took my pictures....give them back right now  Flinch


----------



## fatboy95

bump


----------



## SDeadeye

Here's my latest project, my homemade "X-Press"...It only took about 5 hours worth of work from start to finish. It completely disassembles in about 2 minutes, but I just mounted it on a board that I can clamp to the workbench whenever I need it.

Here is the site where I found the plans...http://www.freewebs.com/cougarjim/howtobuildproxpress.htm

Trailer Jack....$30
Steel............$28
Time.............$0

A press that works the same as one costing ten times as much....priceless:tongue:


----------



## j.d.m.

*tree saddle feet*

Here are the little platforms i made out of stainless steel for use with the tree saddle. Use whatever you want to climb the tree, but when you get to you hight, these are for the final feet platforms. I am going to cut foam pads for the cold weather to attach to these so i don't oose any heat from the bottom. It will also make for a more comfy foot pad.


----------



## bbaumer

*Bow Rack*

Just finished my bow rack today. The drawer contains broadheads and other items. Put a lock on it to keep my little ones fingers out.


----------



## bbaumer

cdfirefighter1 said:


> here is the arrow saw I built... works very well... I used the harbor freight mini chop saw $19 plu sshipping.. the rest of the stuff I had laying around


The wife is going to Muncie tomorrow - where they have a Harbor Freight store. Asked her to pick up one of these if they have them in stock. You've got the best homemade cut-off saw I've seen, assuming it works well. Thanks for sharing. bbaumer


----------



## bbaumer

*Drawer (shelf)*

Here's another pic. The drawer is actually a shelf with a door and self-closing hinges. Using Plano mini tackle boxes for broadhead containers. Didn't figure the kids needed access to the lighter I use on d-loops, serving etc. either so it is stored in there as well.


----------



## CA_Rcher12

huntaholic said:


> Did the one with the bottlecap change your point of impact any????


when I tried it my arrow was slightly left at 10 yards(I put the cap on the other way), but I will try again with the washer since the cap bent out of shape.


----------



## Unk Bond

Komi said:


> Rather then spending $60 on a mount for a trial cam I used an old Dishmount and came up with this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have it up about 6-8' off ground and aiming at the mineral lick and seems to have good view I like it and it cost my less then $12!!!!


---------------------------------
I like this idea.Just happen to have one.

Later


----------



## bbaumer

*Saw*

Bought one of those Harbor Freight saws. Couple hours later I am to this point. Cut up an old carbon arrow as a test. I would rate the saw as adequate for home user but not great. Certainly $23 good but not great. RPM needs to be higher in my opinion to get a better rating and better performance for this task.

Cutting fast bogs the little saw a bit and has a tendency to leave a couple of fiber strands so you must go slower than you would with a real arrow cut-off saw, but again, certainly not bad for $23 and a little time if you are only doing a few dozen arrows a year for home use. Certainly also worth the convenience if you don't live close to a shop or don't want to gamble on or pay the price for Made-To-Order arrows off the net.


----------



## Unk Bond

bbaumer said:


> Bought one of those Harbor Freight saws. Couple hours later I am to this point. Cut up an old carbon arrow as a test. I would rate the saw as adequate for home user but not great. Certainly $23 good but not great. RPM needs to be higher in my opinion to get a better rating and better performance for this task.
> 
> Cutting fast bogs the little saw a bit and has a tendency to leave a couple of fiber strands so you must go slower than you would with a real arrow cut-off saw, but again, certainly not bad for $23 and a little time if you are only doing a few dozen arrows a year for home use. Certainly also worth the convenience if you don't live close to a shop or don't want to gamble on or pay the price for Made-To-Order arrows off the net.


-------------------------
Well I just halft to ask.What is the other black object with the weel atached :wink:


----------



## bbaumer

Unk Bond said:


> -------------------------
> Well I just halft to ask.What is the other black object with the weel atached :wink:



Go back a page on this thread and you'll see it is my homemade version of the EZ Press. It works great.


----------



## Unk Bond

bbaumer said:


> Go back a page on this thread and you'll see it is my homemade version of the EZ Press. It works great.


---------------------------
Will do.Thanks


----------



## MysticFlight

Here is the bow press I just completed last week








and my custom side plates on my Vectrix


----------



## Unk Bond

hockeybuck said:


> This was a Charvel Jackson guitar case that I gutted and retrofit for my Bowtech Tribute.


------------------
Real nice .

Later


----------



## masten

*Made in Sweden*

Made in Sweden bow press


----------



## Unk Bond

masten said:


> Made in Sweden bow press


----------------
I find this very interesting.
Thanks for shareing this pic.

Later


----------



## araz2114

Masten, that is an interesting concept drawing..... do you have a working example of this? I am trying to wrap my mind around this but I can't.


----------



## jnwaco

I just spent 4 hours reading this thread. 4 hours. One thread.


----------



## adamsvenom

just do yourself a favor and 'subscribe' to this thread. makes it easier on the eyes. thats what i did the first time i saw it. read all the way to page 18 in one sitting. OUCH, but worth the time. 

GREAT stuff here guys. thanks SO much for sharing your ideas and creations with everyone


----------



## mdewitt71

jnwaco said:


> I just spent 4 hours reading this thread. 4 hours. One thread.


I did the same thing till I subscribed to it awhile back...........
the best thread of this forum. :wink:


----------



## WiseGuy

*Duck Boat*

I made this 12' duck boat a few years ago

frame attached to my deck









sides and floor boards









getting there ready for decking









fiberglassed and painted - I added removable swivel seats for versatility


----------



## WiseGuy

*Calls*

a couple of the many calls I've made.These are duck, but I make goose and deer grunt also.


----------



## Huaco

Wise guy... Do you have plans for that boat? Looks pretty simple. How much do you have tied up in it? What is its capacity? I would LOVE to build something like this for hunting. I hunt on Corps of Engineer land and the best places to hunt are only accesable by boat. How long did it take you to complete and what kind of tools did you use?

Any and all info would be great!

Craig


----------



## PAstringking

Wiseguy that boat is awesome...and those call are amazing looking.


----------



## sits in trees

man i'm glad this thread came back to life again, great stuff and good ideas.


----------



## robertb

Those calls look awesome!


----------



## WiseGuy

Thanks guys,

I modified plans from 'glen-l'. They have all kinds of boat plans. Here's a link to it with a pimped out picture.
http://www.boatdesigns.com/products.asp?dept=472

I made the bow lower, the base/bottom a little wider, and the whole thing a bit lower. It's a march boat - not a boat for big water/waves. I can stand on the edge and bounce up and down - very stable due to the flat bottom. Only draws a couple inches. Capacity - 2 guys and a dog, usually (and better) just me and my dog.

I don't remember the cost (it's been awhile) - maybe $200ish with fiberglass. BTW fiberglass added a lot of weight and since I don't use it heavily - I'd consider not doing that part. Conversely, I thought about using this current boat as a mold for an all figerglass/no wood version. 

Here's some great sites I've found since. These guys have made some cool rigs.

http://duckboats.net/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi
http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/forumdisplay.php?f=10

Thanks again, have fun


----------



## sowgreen

Great Ideas. TTT


----------



## Twinsfan

ttt


----------



## HNTNWHTTAIL4LF

TTT :darkbeer:


----------



## greenhornet

Hey guys here is a great demo on how to make home made lighted knocks. \
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMqLT-4ezzk


----------



## Unk Bond

*Reply*

Thanks for the link.
Very easy to understand.

Later


----------



## wabobbo

*ttt*

:rock: what a great thread!


----------



## Made-In-TX

I have been up WAY too late just reading this thread. Too many great ideas in here. I think this thing DEFINATELY needs to get a lil sticky!


----------



## teambringit1

its the sstickiest of the icky


----------



## jer7440

ttt


----------



## PAstringking

its finally sticky!! i love this thread!!


----------



## Bowtech_08

PAstringking said:


> its finally sticky!! i love this thread!!


Ditto :darkbeer:


----------



## azhunter

Thanks for the sticky Two State!!


----------



## AK-AZ

azhunter said:


> Thanks for the sticky Two State!!


:wink: :thumb: You got it guys, enjoy!!


----------



## havoctec2006

*Just started making these last year*

I just started making these last year what do you think of them i had been wanting some custom calls but did not want to pay top dollar for them


----------



## John316

I just got a lone wolf stand for this year...and I was going to buy a bow grommet for it but instead I put a thick bead of clear silicone sealer around the top and bottom of the opening of the bow holder and it worked pretty good. 

I know it probably sounds stupid to spend 300 on a stand and be to cheap to buy a 10.00 grommet but ten bucks is ten bucks


----------



## araz2114

*Lone Wolf Gromet*

On my Lone Wolf climber instead of buying the gromet I used black hockey tape.... works even better than the gromet.


----------



## John316

araz2114 said:


> On my Lone Wolf climber instead of buying the gromet I used black hockey tape.... works even better than the gromet.


Hey thanks...I bet it would work good .


----------



## Misfire

Those are some BEAUTIFUL box calls HavocTec! 

I found a nice box turtle shell this weekend I'm planning on trying to make a "slate" from. 

Making turkey calls is fun! Good Job!

.


----------



## DadOfFour

I just read 27 pages of this.... My eyes are watering, my butt hurts from sitting in this wood chair for so long, my wife is pissed at me.....hey, it's just like hunting 

I've gone to wally world, got a couple of the Thill lights, lets see how much equipment I destroy making these 

There are some AWESOME ideas in here folks, thanks to all!


----------



## Todd_ID

3/4" PVC pipe and a few 90 degree elbows makes a simple and effective paper tuning rig. Just use 4 small strips of duct tape to hold in a piece of the morning newspaper, and you're tuning!


----------



## greenhornet

I made some of my own lighted arrow nocks and they seem to work quite well. I justed translucent green nocks and bobber lights(Thill is the most popular but you can find other manufacturers that are a little less money. I tested three colors, red, green, and orange and the red was definately the easiest to see. VERY important that you buy the lights that are the push in type and not the twist type. I made mine by cutting the bottom of and insert about 3/16" long and then glueing the back end of a bobber light into it(drill the insert out if neede). Then sand down a nock so that it fits into your arrow shaft easily. Use a drill bit about the same diameter as the bobber light and drill about half way into the nock. Then use a little glue on the light end of the light to adhere it into the nock. MAKE SURE not to get the glue into the moving part of the light or it will not be able to turn on. Once the glue is dry push down on the nock and the light should come on. Then insert the nock and light into the arrow making sure that the nock is in the correst position in relation to the vanes. once it is inserted all the way you give it a slight pull and it will turn the light off. The nock will be pushed in and turn the light on when the arrow is fired. Here is a diagram, http://archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=521969&highlight=home+made+lighted+nocks


----------



## akgator

*Wrist and Finger Slings*

I just discovered this sticky and thought I'd share these posts of mine from the General Archery Discussion forum.

www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=538722
www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=541566


----------



## acal

*Homemade Stuff*

Good old Yankee ingenuity.


----------



## ghenson82

Look up and read- The Traditional Bowyers Bible (there are 3 volumes) and Bows and Arrows of the Native Americans, or google the name Jim Hamm. Bows and Arrows of the Native Americans is basically a book about how to build a Longbow (or selfbow) from a single piece of wood, as well as everything else w/ Native American bowhunting. The bowyers bibles are more of the same and include history, world archery, horn and wood bows, etc and was written by the top names in the industry of bow making. They wont help you much if you are nothing but a compound shooter, but i shoot both and build my longbows the way Jim taught me, and i really enjoy going back and forth with my Matthews and these longbows. Give it a try.


----------



## CA_Rcher12

here's a good one from the young archers forum.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=525528

good work, Kegan. :thumb:


----------



## PAstringking

CA_Rcher12 said:


> here's a good one from the young archers forum.
> 
> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=525528
> 
> good work, Kegan. :thumb:


thats pretty cool!!


----------



## jlamp

*home made nocks*

I tried making the home made lighted nocks and I cant get them to work. I either glue the light in and it quits working or it wont stay in. Any tips on how much super glue to use on the lights?


----------



## Centaur 1

*Awsome rack*



bbaumer said:


> Just finished my bow rack today. The drawer contains broadheads and other items. Put a lock on it to keep my little ones fingers out.


That is an awsome bow rack, how about sharing the plans!!!!


----------



## bbaumer

Centaur 1 said:


> That is an awsome bow rack, how about sharing the plans!!!!


Thanks.

Dimensions and more pics are available at this link:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=524232

I am currently working on more of these racks to sell for our local 4H shooting sports club, Wayne County Sharp Shooters. 100% of the SALE PRICE will be donated to the club. I am furnishing all material, labor and shipping cost to benefit the club. Haven't decided on price yet but I figure if one were to buy all the materials and pay shipping you'd be approaching $100 without building anything yet.


----------



## muzzy90

jlamp said:


> I tried making the home made lighted nocks and I cant get them to work. I either glue the light in and it quits working or it wont stay in. Any tips on how much super glue to use on the lights?


put the glue on the very outer edge of the light.. right where the plastic part meets the bulb,, remember you dont need alot of glue


----------



## XP35

*Made another knife!*

I made this over the last couple days for a hunting buddy. He saw another one I made and liked it. He just asked for a little more size and a gut hook so this what I came up with for him.



















He thought he was getting a wooden handle, but I used a piece from a shed antler I had here instead. I hope he uses it when he scores this Fall/Winter on a monster of a PA buck he's been watching.

Think he'll like it?

I just sharpened the little sucker, too, and it is VERY, VERY sharp. See the bald spot??










I have made several knives now, from hunting type blades to fillet knives, and it a great and fun hobby/pasttime. This one was made from a stone and tile saw blade (see the arbor cutout in it?) and then heat treated. I also used hidden steel "pins" inside of the handle instead of the usual exposed brass ones as I didn't want to detract from the antler handle's look. The handle is of my own design. I wanted a handle that wouldn't let me drop the knife even with slippery and bloody hands. It does that very well. It's extremely hard steel and it took some time to hand sharpen, but I doubt it will dull easily.:wink:


----------



## jer7440

Dude! That knife is sweet! Could you give us a little more detail as to how you shaped the knife out of a saw blade, and what process you used to heat treat it?


----------



## XP35

jer7440 said:


> Dude! That knife is sweet! Could you give us a little more detail as to how you shaped the knife out of a saw blade, and what process you used to heat treat it?


Here is how I learned to do it from an online buddy who is a phenomenal knife maker and quite an artist!!

I use a Dremel and a reinforced cutoff wheel to deeply score the blade (trying to cut all the way through will take DAYS!) then clamp it in a vise. I use two pair of vise grips to then grab the blade and start bending until it snaps. Hard steel tends to be brittle. I then clean up the edges with my bench grinder. Get the shaping work done (or most at least) before heat treating/tempering.

Grinding the bevel requires a cutlery grinder/belt sander or a bench grinder and some kind of guide for consistency. Thinner blades, like the one I posted above, are much easier to do this with than when using thicker stock/saw blades. I use a bench grinder and a homemade guide.

Also, aneal the metal (heat 'til the metal turns a "straw color" and let air cool to soften) before trying to drill any holes. Your drill and bits will thank you!!

Heat until non magnetic (glowing red hot, often takes a kitchen stove AND a torch with thick blades) and then quench in a 135F salt water bath. Then temper in a regular ol' kitchen oven at 400F for 1 hour. I don't think longer hurts.

The handle is up to you, though. There are literally hundreds of ways to make a handle, although I have only made a few different handle designs to date.

Whew! I think that's about it!!

Go make a knife! It is a fun and rewarding hobby. You will probably get hooked, though, after you make one. I did!


----------



## jer7440

One more question for you. How thick is the material from the saw blade?


----------



## bearintex

Has anyone ever made a bow vise or anything similar?


----------



## XP35

jer7440 said:


> One more question for you. How thick is the material from the saw blade?


It varies. You just need to find a saw blade the thickness you want to use for that particular knife. I've seen them from 3/32" to 3/16" for smaller saw blades and I have a couple BIG blades from blacktop cutting machines that are over 1/4" thick.


----------



## huntaholic

BearBait13 said:


> Here is what i have come up with while tinkering with the lighted nocks. They work pretty well. It is up to you to sand the insert part on the nock so it slips in and out of the arrow.


That's exactly what I do with mine, except I use staples heated up instead of sewing needles, it's cheaper and easier to dremmel down.


Good visual BearBait. 


Hunt.


----------



## bluegrasshunter

*Glad to see this finally got a sticky!*

There is way too much good info in this post to not be. Thanks mods.
Brad


----------



## JEofWV

*Game cam lock...*

since my Moultrie only has a place to lock the cover, I made my own cable lock bracket. Thought someone else might benefit!

1 - U-bolt 1/4" x 3/4" x 1 & 1/2"
2 - extra nuts for the U-bolt
1/4" drill bit
Small amount of silicone sealer

1) Place and mark u-bolt holes in case, making sure to clear battery and/or components.

2) Drill the 2 holes for u-bolt using 1/4" bit

3) Install 1 nut on each leg of u-bolt and thread fully

4) Insert u-bolt into holes and place the cross piece and 2nd nuts

5) Before snugging nuts, apply small amount of silicone sealer under outside nuts, then snug the nuts on the inside of the case.

Ready to go!

Jim


----------



## MTLivin

*Impressive1*



gr8martin said:


> Guys, I also make turkey calls. Mostly box calls and yelpers. Here are a few pics of the more decorative calls I make.


Very nice craftsmanship! I wish i had that kind of detail experience. Did you use mostly a scroll saw and jigs?


----------



## dixie bow hunte

hey guys got interested in this thread went looking and found this site that you can get yellow red or green if your interested http://www.castawaylakes.com/NiteBriteBattery.html


----------



## white00crow

Has anyone made a String Jig? if so Hook me up with the plans cause I want to give string making a try!


----------



## CA_Rcher12

white00crow said:


> Has anyone made a String Jig? if so Hook me up with the plans cause I want to give string making a try!


Someone had a thread about it in Gen Pop a few days ago.


----------



## jer7440

Well, you guys inspired me to try building my own knife. Here are a couple of images from my cad program at work.



















I have access to some pretty cool cnc equipment at work, so I am using that technology to make my knife. I used a cnc mill to thin the blade, and put the holes in the handle. Then I used a wire edm to cut around the outside perimeter. 

Next I need to heat treat the o-1 tool steel and cut the wood scales ( I have some mahogany left over from a guitar I'm building...I will probably use some of that).

P.S. The knife is a knock off of something I saw on the cabelas website.


----------



## XP35

jer7440 said:


> Well, you guys inspired me to try building my own knife. Here are a couple of images from my cad program at work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have access to some pretty cool cnc equipment at work, so I am using that technology to make my knife. I used a cnc mill to thin the blade, and put the holes in the handle. Then I used a wire edm to cut around the outside perimeter.
> 
> Next I need to heat treat the o-1 tool steel and cut the wood scales ( I have some mahogany left over from a guitar I'm building...I will probably use some of that).
> 
> P.S. The knife is a knock off of something I saw on the cabelas website.


COOL! I made a Chef's knife for someone with a cherry handle much like that, but I added detail all the way around it. 

That should be a beautiful knife when it's finished! Post pics when it's done.


----------



## Unk Bond

That is one fine knife.Takeing orders yet :wink:


----------



## kelfonk

Great thread, thought I'd share.

My cultipacker


----------



## Unk Bond

kelfonk said:


> Great thread, thought I'd share.
> 
> My cultipacker


----------
Hello
Thats a nice outfit.
You got me thinkin.Bet that would level my drive way. :wink:


----------



## CA_Rcher12

Out of curiosity, what do you plan to use all that space for?


----------



## kelfonk

CA_Rcher12 said:


> Out of curiosity, what do you plan to use all that space for?


Food plots for deer hunting.

A cultipacker is used to help firm the seed bed to allowing for better seed to soil contact.


----------



## PAstringking

that cultipacker is a great idea!!

is it filled with cement??


----------



## kelfonk

Yep,

Its a 15" galvanized drainage pipe filled with concrete with a pipe centered for a axle. The framework is made out of 1 1/4 and 1/12 galvanized plumbing pipe and assorted fittings. A ball hitch reciever added on the end for towing.


----------



## scoutlover

Not sure if this has been posted yet, as I have skipped several pages, but here is my portable hoist. I needed one for several different tracts of land, and I keep this in my toolbox all season long. Just pull a pin and it folds down, and you can use it on any tree or even a telephone poll with a street light for cleaning at night.


----------



## 7mag_Jake

*Home Made Gum o Flague o nthe run*

Someone coulda posted this but any way for those scent freaks and lets say your down to your last piece of Gumoflauge right. Ouch and your hunting then is overe right.. worng Take some pine neddle chew up up and swallo the juice. Good for heartburn too.


----------



## jer7440

Unk Bond said:


> That is one fine knife.Takeing orders yet :wink:


No orders yet. I want to see if this one comes out all right. I'm making one for me and one for my BIL. He is making the leather sheaths.


----------



## psemachxhunter

*I make my own carbon clothing...*

Not sure if anyone else has posted this but I've been using Trucarbon for the last couple of years mixed with water to dip my clothes in to make my own carbon clothing. I do this a couple times a year, whenever I think my carbon is used up.


----------



## Unk Bond

jer7440 said:


> No orders yet. I want to see if this one comes out all right. I'm making one for me and one for my BIL. He is making the leather sheaths.


Do post a pic of the leather sheath

Man this should stand up to the Bowie knife :wink:


----------



## jdhcpo

white00crow said:


> Has anyone made a String Jig? if so Hook me up with the plans cause I want to give string making a try!


I have plans for a string jig, but the file is to large to attach in AT. If you want to leave me a PM with your email I'll send it to you.


----------



## Mr. November

*Field Point Target*

My dad went to a home improvement store and asked if they had any scraps from their mesh screens (used on screen doors and porches). The manager said they were just going to throw it away so my dad grabbed as much as he could and crammed it into a cardboard box. Painted a couple of spots on it and had a free archery target. This target stops the arrows quicker than any I have ever used.


----------



## showmehunter

*Thill vs Rob-n-Bobb*

I got one of my homemade lumenock's working thanks to this thread. Now I'm going to make more. I used the thill because Walmart had them, but it seems they mostly stocked the twist type. 

To those of you who have tried both, are the Rob-n-Bobb lights as bright as the thill lights? Cabela's has the thill listed for $3.50 each and the RnB for $2.50 each. Was just wondering if they are equivalent.


----------



## Rack-a-tree

showmehunter said:


> I got one of my homemade lumenock's working thanks to this thread. Now I'm going to make more. I used the thill because Walmart had them, but it seems they mostly stocked the twist type.
> 
> To those of you who have tried both, are the Rob-n-Bobb lights as bright as the thill lights? Cabela's has the thill listed for $3.50 each and the RnB for $2.50 each. Was just wondering if they are equivalent.



I made mine out of the RnB and they work just like the Thills. The only difference I see between the two is the RnB's are $1 cheaper!


----------



## dormin

I've made it...to the end... and man does my brain hurt.


----------



## Unk Bond

dormin said:


> I've made it...to the end... and man does my brain hurt.


No --pain --no gain :wink:


----------



## ILBowHunter45

*Lighted nocks*

Hi guys I too have made some of my own lighted nocks and i have found you have to use the ones that push on and off and not the twist on ones.There is a thread for your tube which i used to make mine and they realy do work I have made 6 for the price of what 3 lumes cost here is the thread 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMqLT-4ezzk&mode=related&search= the guy in the video real does a good job of going step by step through the process hope this helps 

High country power extreme pro
Fox fire 3 pin Ripcord, Black hawk Vapors, Blazers, tiped with 100g Rage 2 blades,Sims S coil .


The stands are up the lanes are cleared the bow is ready and the season opens on Mon. Cocked Locked and ready to Rock!!!!!!


----------



## Bennco99

I just wanted to thank everyone for sharing all of these great ideas! I have so many new projects to work on now :wink:


----------



## Mr. November

Rack-a-tree said:


> I made mine out of the RnB and they work just like the Thills. The only difference I see between the two is the RnB's are $1 cheaper!


:set1_signs009: :RockOn:


----------



## Swamp Buck

*Rob and Bobb*

RnB work for me. Cheaper and Thill does not seem to have many of the push button ones, they are all twist.....which don't work.
Great ideas here folks, keep them coming.


----------



## Whitefeather

*"Twist on lights" ??*



Swamp Buck said:


> RnB work for me. Cheaper and Thill does not seem to have many of the push button ones, they are all twist.....which don't work.
> Great ideas here folks, keep them coming.


I wonder if the twist on lights would work if you just gave them a little twist shortly before you take the shot.?? The only difference is they would be on before the shot instead of turning on at the shot. For those worried about the light getting spotted by deer before the shot...a black (or dark colored nock) would solve the problem.

Has anyone tried them this way?

JP


----------



## Swamp Buck

Seems like a pain....too much other stuff to worry about when taking a shot at an animal without turning on your arrow....the in/out button ones are automatic, what could be better.

One thing that I modified on the design plans here on this site is that I put three very small pins on three sides of the light, this seems to hold it better and they do not break as easily.


----------



## electricglow

I have made them before where the foreward motion of the shot will turn on the light. First you need to cut the bottom of the nock off. Then glue the top of the light to the inside of the nock. Then you glue the bottom of the nock to the bottom of the light. This way you can turn the light off by gently pulling the nock out of the arrow (When the light shuts off you stop pulling). There is a demonstration on youtube.com - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMqLT-4ezzk

Good luck!


----------



## Swamp Buck

*No Glue!*

I do not recomend the glue option. I perfer the hot pin throught the nock and into the plastic around the light. I can see how the glue would work, but have messed up the two that I tried that with, and have not messed up at all with the the pin method.


----------



## Mr. November

I've had problems getting the pin through the knock. I heat the pin until it is glowing then push in through the base of the knock towards the plastic of the light but the pin tip just bends. Any thoughts?


----------



## Swamp Buck

The pin method will require more than one pin application.
I take the nock melt the three holes without the light inside to get the holes in the nock. Then I take a fresh pin that has not been heated, which makes them weak and easy to bend when they hit the harder plastic on the light housing, then heat that and stick through the already premelted holes and they will stay hot enough to stick into the light plastic. LEt me know if you have any further questions or need photos.


----------



## ilarcher

*broadhead knife*

I seen someone had made some so I thought I would try one. I used a new B-52 BH and a shed antler I had laying around. I found the best part of the antler that fit my hand the best and cut it off. I kept the knife pretty simple as you will see in the pic's. I made the sheath out of the leather of a old red wing boot. I am really happy with it, it will be nice to have a small sharp knife in my backpack that I made. IMO, I think it will be a nice skinning knife.


----------



## neo71665

Mr. November said:


> I've had problems getting the pin through the knock. I heat the pin until it is glowing then push in through the base of the knock towards the plastic of the light but the pin tip just bends. Any thoughts?


I use a small drill bit , drill the hole, coat the pin with super glue gel, slide it in the hole, after drying file it smooth. This way I aint don't ruin as many nocks or lights. You can pick up the drill bits set at sears for around $9 and they come in handy for all kinds of things.


----------



## buckmark23

*Camera Bow attachment*

I made this today and it seems to work really well. I will give it a good field test this weekend:wink:
Total cost? It was free. I had some scap material and 20 minutes later, bam it's done. It could cost more that $5.00 to build.


----------



## CA_Rcher12

Hey 23, do you have footage from a test shot yet? That looks like a real nice idea...:thumb:


----------



## stevekarns

*Cheap Target that lasts*

You can build a box out of virtualy anything you want, cardboard box = short life span, plywood box would last longer......even a burlap sack, anything to keep the contents in one place. Leave one side of the plywood open and put chicken wire or something similiar to keep the contents inside. Then fill the box/sack with Shrink Wrap, many grocery stores throw it away in mass amounts daily so you can get it for free from them. It's the clear wrap that keeps a pallet together when shipped. Fill the box with the shrink wrap and compress slightly, no need to jump up in down on it or anything like that, just push it down with you hand a little. Then shoot into the box/sack, arrow removal is easier then any layered target and the target will last as long as the box/sack does. My dad had one that about 6 people shot at weekly for years, until the plywood rotted then we made another one with the same shrink wrap.


----------



## Lerie

Buckmark23 - had something similar. Scrapped it after some test shooting. Too much vibration to the camera. If some sort of vibration dampner attached, could reduce the risk of damage to camera which I was fearfull of.

Now you got me thinking on how to dampen the vibration. Gonna take 2 pieces of the flat rubber bungee cord. Will start out with them about 2 inches wider than the bracket mount. Will center drill the bungee cord to accept a 1/4-28 bolt and attach them to the hole to the rear of the bracket by sandwiching the bracket between the 2 pieces of bungee. If this works, will try lengthening the bungee to see if this works any better.

For those of you who have the excess cash - you might want to try placing a pair of the Simms dampeners on the bracket.

Don't wait for me to post any results. Our season gets underway in 3 days.


----------



## buckmark23

Lerie said:


> Buckmark23 - had something similar. Scrapped it after some test shooting. Too much vibration to the camera. If some sort of vibration dampner attached, could reduce the risk of damage to camera which I was fearfull of.
> 
> Now you got me thinking on how to dampen the vibration. Gonna take 2 pieces of the flat rubber bungee cord. Will start out with them about 2 inches wider than the bracket mount. Will center drill the bungee cord to accept a 1/4-28 bolt and attach them to the hole to the rear of the bracket by sandwiching the bracket between the 2 pieces of bungee. If this works, will try lengthening the bungee to see if this works any better.
> 
> For those of you who have the excess cash - you might want to try placing a pair of the Simms dampeners on the bracket.
> 
> Don't wait for me to post any results. Our season gets underway in 3 days.


I sprayed the bracket with that rubber stuff in a can. I put it on pretty thick and I shot the bow about 15 times. I am only looking to get one shot:wink:,so I need it to work for that one. I have not noticed any noise. I can't believe how cheap and how well this thing worked.


----------



## buckmark23

CA_Rcher12 said:


> Hey 23, do you have footage from a test shot yet? That looks like a real nice idea...:thumb:


Yes, but I have now idea how to download video???


----------



## araz2114

1/4"-20 is the camera bolt size not 1/4"-28. Just incase you are wondering.


----------



## CA_Rcher12

buckmark23 said:


> Yes, but I have now idea how to download video???


What I usually do is save the vid on my Youtube or Photobucket account, then post the link to it. :dontknow:


----------



## Biketrax

*just finished a portable feeder!*

the Idea is from another At'er
I know it looks like alot of glare in the photo!


----------



## Bennco99

Biketrax - I have seen variations of the pvc feeder, What do you have on the top for a lid? looks like a piece of plywood? Also, is that 4" or 6" pvc?

Jonathan


----------



## ArcheryhunterSD

Here's tower blind I built with most everything thrown away from construction sites. even windows from a remodeled house. Have pvc coming down & into pail full of peet rock under ground for peeing in. Solar panel from electric fencer charging 12v battery for 12 volt lighting. covered inside landscape material to make it black inside. House door on back with dead bolt, shingled, Padded, & carpeted. even put a magazine rack in for hunting mags.


----------



## readysoldier

Where can i get some of that heat shrink. I've seen a guy working with it once at my job. but never thought of that. thats a great idea.


----------



## jer7440

Here are a couple of pics of the knife I made from the cad file I posted above:





















Its shaving sharp, and I can't wait to try it out! The blade is a piece of O-1 tool steel and the handle scales are out of mahogany.:darkbeer:


----------



## fmb

I'll pitch something in here if it isnt already in these 29 pages

I needed some kind of treestand bags to hold my candybars  and calls and such so I went to walmart and bought a camo belt pouch thing, probably setup for dove shooters. It had 3 pouches on it, 2 small and one large. I then went to Lowes and picked up some double sided velcro, its pretty tuff and has the loops on one side and hooks on the other, comes in like a 3' roll. Cut a couple pieces 6-7 inches long, slid the bags off the belt and put a pop rivet thru them near the tops of the bags, (I used a backer washer for the rivets too). Now I have 2 treestand bags that are held on with velcro and work perfectly on my stand. I carry them in my backpack then put them on before climbing up, they have my bow holder and screw in hook so once Im up there they are handy for getting setup quietly and quickly. 

Also I use a Bohning quiver with the quick detach bracket and always struggle finding a place for my quiver once up a tree. I bought an extra bohning bracket, drilled another hole thru the back and drilled a hole in the flat part of one of those black paper clip things. Used a black wire tie and fastened the paperclip to the back of the bohning bracket. My bow hanger is one of the square tube realtree kind and the paper clip fits it perfectly. Now I screw my bow holder in the tree, clip the bohning bracket to my bow hanger and attach the quiver to it, arrows are right where I can reach them if I need a second one 

If anyones interested I can post pics


----------



## Misfire

ilarcher said:


> I seen someone had made some so I thought I would try one. I used a new B-52 BH and a shed antler I had laying around. I found the best part of the antler that fit my hand the best and cut it off. I kept the knife pretty simple as you will see in the pic's. I made the sheath out of the leather of a old red wing boot. I am really happy with it, it will be nice to have a small sharp knife in my backpack that I made. IMO, I think it will be a nice skinning knife.


That is a nice knife. I love the sheath! Good job! 



I built an antler knife a year or so ago for a buddy of mine as a display piece to go along with some wingbone calls I made for him. I haven’t finished it yet but it does fit the hand quite well… I put an insert into the handle so the blades can be swapped out. 




























.


----------



## coup

*rebar steps*

talked to a guy once that said he drilled holes at an angle an used pre cut rebar that fit snug into the holes,,he put them in and then took them with him,when removing the stand......


----------



## Byron

coup said:


> talked to a guy once that said he drilled holes at an angle an used pre cut rebar that fit snug into the holes,,he put them in and then took them with him,when removing the stand......


Sorry, but this sounds incredibly dangerous. I would expect the rebar to be slippery if wet or muddy, as well as having the potential to rotate in the hole. Being potentially impaled on rebar doesn't sound like my idea of the best end to a day afield, either.

Please be careful out there, everyone!

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## Unk Bond

Byron said:


> Sorry, but this sounds incredibly dangerous. I would expect the rebar to be slippery if wet or muddy, as well as having the potential to rotate in the hole. Being potentially impaled on rebar doesn't sound like my idea of the best end to a day afield, either.
> 
> Please be careful out there, everyone!
> 
> Best Regards,
> Byron



Hello All
I have a friend that uses bolts this way.Must have the harden bolts And bolt heads have several marks on them.I beleve they are 1/2 inch dia.

Now if i was to use rebarb i would weld big washers on one end.

Later


----------



## archer1914

has any body tried the lighted pin idea on g nocks i havent had time to look through all the posts on here sorry if i have missed it i would love to know how it how it works on them if u have i work alot and with bow season i dont have much spare time to look thru all of them 

thanks from a new member


----------



## huntaholic

readysoldier said:


> Where can i get some of that heat shrink. I've seen a guy working with it once at my job. but never thought of that. thats a great idea.


Do a search for 3/8" clear heat shrink, and see what you come up with.

For work, we get ours from Anixter by rolls with our company account. 

I'm sure you can find it at places like Altex, Panduit, Alpha Wire Company, etc..., where it may be easier to order for the individual.

Here's some links:
*Altex Electronics*

*Alpha Wire Company Heat Shrink Listings*

*Panduit Heat Shrink Listings*

Give those folks a call and they'll hook you up.


----------



## jlamp

*Lighted Arrow Nocks....*

I just got one to glue on. You have to use very very little glue on them. If you use too much you cannot turn them off. I tried the pin method and couldnt get the pins hot enough to go through the nocks. 

I would like to see some pics of the quiver holder that was made. That sounds pretty sweet!


----------



## GreggWNY

*Homemade Blind*

Made this from a material called leafy sheet. Basically a netting material with synthetic but very natural looking leaves. Held up with 3 lightweight 6' green aluminum garden stakes. I made 2 of these panels for under $50.00. It's scary how well it blends into the autumn woods and allow you a lot of undetected movement. Have already taken a deer and coyote from it. I drew my bow undetected by a large mature coyote after I stopped him with a doe bleat.
Total weight of the 2 panels is under 4 lbs. and sets up in less than 1 minute. Just push the stakes into the ground and adjust the upper and lower sections for correct shooting height.


----------



## mtrain

fmb said:


> I'll pitch something in here if it isnt already in these 29 pages
> 
> 
> 
> If anyones interested I can post pics


I'd like to see pics.


----------



## Biketrax

*Cover is PVC*



Bennco99 said:


> Biketrax - I have seen variations of the pvc feeder, What do you have on the top for a lid? looks like a piece of plywood? Also, is that 4" or 6" pvc?
> 
> Jonathan


pvc the lid is a polymer. they use it for trim work!
Did a job, had it left over will last forever! Tube is a 4 inch pipe.
I also heat glued a curved chute inside to help the grain out the front instead of it sitting on the bottom, with a screen on the very bottom to keep varmits out and good drianage. Will also put an old rubber tubing strips over the feeder to keep heavy rain out!
working on a 6 inch galvinized version too.


----------



## Unk Bond

GreggWNY said:


> Made this from a material called leafy sheet. Basically a netting material with synthetic but very natural looking leaves. Held up with 3 lightweight 6' green aluminum garden stakes. I made 2 of these panels for under $50.00. It's scary how well it blends into the autumn woods and allow you a lot of undetected movement. Have already taken a deer and coyote from it. I drew my bow undetected by a large mature coyote after I stopped him with a doe bleat.
> Total weight of the 2 panels is under 4 lbs. and sets up in less than 1 minute. Just push the stakes into the ground and adjust the upper and lower sections for correct shooting height.


--------------------------
Hello
And a nice job.
The material called leafy sheet.Where did you buy it.
Thanks.


----------



## Bennco99

GreggWNY said:


> Made this from a material called leafy sheet. Basically a netting material with synthetic but very natural looking leaves. Held up with 3 lightweight 6' green aluminum garden stakes. I made 2 of these panels for under $50.00. It's scary how well it blends into the autumn woods and allow you a lot of undetected movement. Have already taken a deer and coyote from it. I drew my bow undetected by a large mature coyote after I stopped him with a doe bleat.
> Total weight of the 2 panels is under 4 lbs. and sets up in less than 1 minute. Just push the stakes into the ground and adjust the upper and lower sections for correct shooting height.


Yes, please I would like to know where you found the leafy sheet stuff too. I found one website  that sold it for $24.95 for an 8'x10' roll... 

I really like the idea! Thanks for sharing and more details would be appreciated.

Jonathan


----------



## GreggWNY

Bennco99 said:


> Yes, please I would like to know where you found the leafy sheet stuff too. I found one website  that sold it for $24.95 for an 8'x10' roll...
> 
> I really like the idea! Thanks for sharing and more details would be appreciated.
> 
> Jonathan


The website you showed lists it for $49.95 which seems to be the going rate.
I bought it from:
http://txfowlers.com/MOJO_LEAFY_SHEET_BROWN.asp


----------



## acal

*Leafy Sheets*



GreggWNY said:


> The website you showed lists it for $49.95 which seems to be the going rate.
> I bought it from:
> http://txfowlers.com/MOJO_LEAFY_SHEET_BROWN.asp



You can buy stuff like this and vinyl strings of leaves and branches at Joann Fabrics and many crafts stores for CHEAP !

The leaves and branches my wife brought home looked so real I was ready to put them on my tree stand instead of her using them to decorate the porch for the grandchildren.


----------



## Bennco99

Biketrax said:


> pvc the lid is a polymer. they use it for trim work!
> Did a job, had it left over will last forever! Tube is a 4 inch pipe.
> I also heat glued a curved chute inside to help the grain out the front instead of it sitting on the bottom, with a screen on the very bottom to keep varmits out and good drianage. Will also put an old rubber tubing strips over the feeder to keep heavy rain out!
> working on a 6 inch galvinized version too.


Biketrax - 
Is there something in particular that you used for the curved chute? I was drawing it out and was trying to think of what I could use. 
This is a great idea!

I would imagine that using galvenized for the 6" version would be considerably cheaper! I priced the 6" pvc at lowes and it's not cheap (cheaper than buying a prebuild feeder though).

I do appreciate you sharing this with us, I was just getting ready to build 2, and am glad that I waited, b/c I like your chute idea. Any more info would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Jonathan


----------



## Stevem74

jer7440 said:


> Here are a couple of pics of the knife I made from the cad file I posted above:
> 
> 
> Its shaving sharp, and I can't wait to try it out! The blade is a piece of O-1 tool steel and the handle scales are out of mahogany.:darkbeer:


 That knife looks awesome! Would you be interested in selling one? I am looking for something like that but without the gut hook.
Thanks!


----------



## readysoldier

thanx for the reply on this. I'll defenitely check out the links. Good luck this season


----------



## gman57

*Homemade Heater Body Suit*

Well I did it ,thanks to Modells having a sale on sleeping bags,I got an oversized bag rated to 30 deg for like 40% off price. I then ordered the camo from Luras Fabris the link is in Dons thread above. I later found camo fabric cheaper at Wally World but only a couple of patterns and thinner. I then layed out the sleeping bag so that the zipper was on the top side in the middle and cut the bag from the bottom up to halfway between knee and crotch height. I cut the zipper at this point and removed the bottom portion and sewed up the open end real tight Then turned the bag inside out and sewed the leg seams up, and rounded off the shoulder area and sewed this too. I layed out the camo doubled over and placed the bag on top of it and marked the outline of the bag then cut the leg line, and cut open where the zipper would be,then turned the camo inside out and sewed the seams. Then turned both the camo and the bag right side out and stuffed the bag into the camo and sewed the camo material to the bag along the zipper, and sewed the shoulder area camo to the bag. I then made a little collar like Don had on his and sewed it on. I then turned whole thing inside out again and sewed bottoms on the feet. I used some old safety harness I had to make the suspenders and sewed them in following Dons direction in his post. Probably sounds confusing but it took me about 5-6 hrs over a couple of days and only cost like $70.00 opposed to $350 or so to buy. Im ready for the cold...have to make boot covers yet to ease getting in suit.
Attached Images

__________________
Mathews Switchback 
TR Drop Zone, Predator IV 
Simms S coil, STS, Bucknasties
NYB member


----------



## jer7440

Hey gman57...I have a couple of questions about your homemade HBS. First, will your boots fit in the leg bottoms? If so, how big around are those leg bottoms and what size boots do you wear? I love the concept and if it seems feasible I have an old sleeping bag at home that just might be getting this treatment.


----------



## gman57

Yes boots ( size 11) fit in leg bottoms I made the bottoms a little oval shaped I should have made it more of an oval. With the lenght of this bag I could have just sewn up the legs and put my foot in and stood legs are plenty long. You really need to have some kind of boot covers to make it easy to slide your boots into the legs. Just needs to be some simple bags to go over the boot maybe with some elastic .


----------



## Biketrax

*I agree! Galvanized is cheaper!*



Bennco99 said:


> Biketrax -
> Is there something in particular that you used for the curved chute? I was drawing it out and was trying to think of what I could use.
> This is a great idea!
> 
> I would imagine that using galvenized for the 6" version would be considerably cheaper! I priced the 6" pvc at lowes and it's not cheap (cheaper than buying a prebuild feeder though).
> 
> I do appreciate you sharing this with us, I was just getting ready to build 2, and am glad that I waited, b/c I like your chute idea. Any more info would be appreciated!
> 
> Thanks,
> Jonathan


I am making my next FEEDER out of an old (galvanized/unused ) stove pipe.
Thats exactly what I used for the guided curved chute GALVANIZED inside( the pvc one)! I bet an old frisbee would work??
I wish I took some pictures. 
Basically just tin snip them till it looks and fits reasonable.This can afford to be sloppy(after all no ones ever going to see it:wink the hot glue holds it in place and fills in the BIG gaps. You can even silicone chaulk if you have some lying around. ITs always better with a little air circulation and drainage.
Good Luck 
PM me if you have any questions
I will take some more pictures of the next couple I am making but wont be done for a few weeks.


----------



## Gethenet

*squirrles*



WiseGuy said:


> I made the feeders from 6" PVC
> 1 - 6" tube of the length of your choice
> 1 - removable cap (female) for the top
> 1 - angled tee
> 1 - bottom (male) plug
> 
> Just put it together as you see. The bottom plug has holes drilled through out for drainage. Cemented it all with PVC cement and painted. This is a quick easy project.
> I set it up a little off the ground also so it drains. I prop it on a small rock and strap it with bungees and done. I've sat and watched deer feed out of these from about ten yards. I thought they'd be intimidated, but they stick there face right in and eat like a dog at a dog bowl. They figures these out and get on them in short order I was suprised.
> By the way I couldn't find this larger stuff at HD so I had to go to a plumbing supply place. Have fun!
> Here's a shot at the bottom.


using these type of feeders...how do you keep the squirrles from taking all the feed?


----------



## Biketrax

*Have not seen Squirrels go near it yet!*

And boy I got alot of squirrels close by
But the turkeys sure love coming around for the scraps!


----------



## Bennco99

*feeder*

My father-in-law and I made one yesterday. We ended up cutting a 4" piece off of the left over 4" pvc. We put that into the "Y" adapter and then put a cap on that. This one is setting in his yard, so he just takes the cap off in the evening and puts it back on in the morning.

If this was out it the woods, it wouldn't be a good solution. I'm not sure how you would accomplish that otherwise.

Jonathan


----------



## TheDuckBuster

here is a few of my projects, there is alot more to many to post pics of.... these are all cut by hand by me with a plasma cutter


----------



## dtl2441

*TheDuckBuster*

Wow, great job. Quite a skill you have. Do you sell these?


----------



## TheDuckBuster

Ya i try to anyway....lol sometimes i like one so much that i end up keeping it all together or keeping the first one and making another one for someone who wants the same one. But to answer your question yes i do . 
Also i always try to make at least two cuz usually the second one comes out a lil better. I am always finding and looking for new designs that i can cut and each time i try to get more detail and stuff like that. So i try and progress my skills and pick a harder one each time i start a new one.


----------



## handirifle

Biketrax said:


> I am making my next FEEDER out of an old (galvanized/unused ) stove pipe.
> Thats exactly what I used for the guided curved chute GALVANIZED inside( the pvc one)! I bet an old frisbee would work??
> I wish I took some pictures.
> Basically just tin snip them till it looks and fits reasonable.This can afford to be sloppy(after all no ones ever going to see it:wink the hot glue holds it in place and fills in the BIG gaps. You can even silicone chaulk if you have some lying around. ITs always better with a little air circulation and drainage.
> Good Luck
> PM me if you have any questions
> I will take some more pictures of the next couple I am making but wont be done for a few weeks.


Can the deer actually get the food out of there? It just seems like a small opening.


----------



## fishcrazy

*Cheap Pin Light*

Just by a finger light from walley world(Usually up by the registers, Just Ask) and glue it to your bow pointed to the pins. They come in blue and red. I picked blue works perfect. 2.00 Plus

Fishcrazy

Give a Man/Woman a fish and he/she eats for a day, give him/her a Bow or a fishing pole and he/she eats for a lifetime. Gotta be politically correct!!!


----------



## fishcrazy

*Anybody making Rear Sights or anchor Point sights*

I have seen one that used a kiddy bow sight that looked simple enough but needed to see how it worked?

Fishcrazy


----------



## switchback_101

*Tree stand*

Heres a treestand that I made and made the seat using foam from walmart some wood and stapled the fabric around it tight.


----------



## MarkGlenn

good looking stand , how much did it end up weighing?


----------



## switchback_101

Maybe 12-15 pounds i dunno for sure... It wasnt too bad.. I put it up by myself.


----------



## MarkGlenn

not bad at all, im looking to get a tube bender from harbor freight and see about bending some tubes up for a stand, i hope to keep it under 15 lbs.


----------



## Dodgedude

Back to the homebrew lighted nocks, the Thill nite brites fit perfectly in Gold Tip nocks. If you have the ruby red, or can find them, the light shines through just fine without drilling.

Cool stand. I'm wanting to make some for next season. I like the stand I have now, but wish the seat to platform dimension was smaller. Blasted short legs, anyway.

Keep up the good work.


----------



## handirifle

MarkGlenn said:


> not bad at all, im looking to get a tube bender from harbor freight and see about bending some tubes up for a stand, i hope to keep it under 15 lbs.


Does their bender bend square tubing?


----------



## dobber5810

*Great looking stand*

What size tubing did you use?


----------



## tazman7

You dont need a tubing bender to bend square tubing, just my grandpas knowledge..haha

Ill take a pic of the bench tomorrow-

Basically you need a big pipe (like 3 or 4"), you tach weld that to a metal bench and put the tubing up against that, then take a piece of angle iron and weld it next to the tubing. Then take a torch and heat ot where you want it to bend and bend it SLOWLY until it curves around the pipe to the desired angle...and wahhlaa...





For the PVC feeder: can you use 4" pvc or do you need the 6"?? The 6" is pretty expensive, especially for the adapter piece.


----------



## shott8283

switchback_101 said:


> Heres a treestand that I made and made the seat using foam from walmart some wood and stapled the fabric around it tight.


fluxed core'd wire with a t-shirt

i bet your arms looked like chicken pox when you were done


----------



## Unk Bond

Hey guys i might add here. Filling your tubeing with sand and corking the ends with a piece of dial rod. Helps keep the shape of the tube while bending.


----------



## shott8283

Unk Bond said:


> Hey guys i might add here. Filling your tubeing with sand and corking the ends with a piece of dial rod. Helps keep the shape of the tube while bending.


would you suggest compacting the sand before corking .. try to get most of the air out so the sand doesnt give?

thats a really good idea.. never thought of that. heres to you :darkbeer:


----------



## archer1983

*This thread*

has got to be the most useful thread ever on AT!!

keep it alive guys.


----------



## Unk Bond

shott8283 said:


> would you suggest compacting the sand before corking .. try to get most of the air out so the sand doesnt give?
> 
> thats a really good idea.. never thought of that. heres to you :darkbeer:


----------------------
compacting = you got it.:wink: 

Remember the portable blind on this thread that i posted.Made by bending 1/2 inch conduit .And may i add here and and give credit for this portable blind. The idea from anoter AT member here.

Well you can make a pattern with pegs on 2 sheets of plywood.And the light conduit is very easy to bend to form your blind.


----------



## someonescop

For those that are searching for the batteries to build lighted nocks. I just bought some from Tower Hobbies for $2.69 each. These are for the model airplanes but are exactly like the bobber batteries. They work well.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPHC2&P=SM


----------



## fmb

mtrain said:


> I'd like to see pics.


OK, here they are, check my post on page 29 for the details 

The quiver holder holds real well on the square shaft of the realtree bow holder, not sure about the others. The bag I have about 4 or 5 bux invested in, got the double sided velcro strap at lowes for a few bux and had the rivet gun at home already. The bags I got at walmart, they came on a belt, 3 of em. I just slid them off and pop riveted the strap to the top of them, easy stuff


----------



## 1shotca

what happened to this being stickied :dontknow:


----------



## Bentobox

*sticky????*

Where is IGlueIt4U when you need him?


----------



## ttown

*Nice articles on the illuminated nocks*



huntaholic said:


> That's exactly what I do with mine, except I use staples heated up instead of sewing needles, it's cheaper and easier to dremmel down.
> 
> 
> Good visual BearBait.
> 
> 
> Hunt.


First of all, thanks for sharing your knowledge on creating illuminated nocks. I wanted to say I created some but I embellished somewhat on your original design.

What I ended up doing is drilling the 5/32" hole all the way through the nock where the bulb would just appear in the string notch. That way, the act of shooting the arrow will turn the light on. The next problem I had was how to turn the light off once I retrieved the arrow. The solution was simple, I drilled a small hole in the side of the nock. I could then insert a precision screw driver in the whole and push the bulb to the off position. I then glued the light into the nock to preven it from sliding down the shaft.

So far, the 5 nocks I created works flawlessly. 

One more piece of detail, I ground down the outer piece of the bulb section of the nite brite. There would be less friction in the nock when it was activated and then to turn it off.

Thanks again for sharing your ideas in this forum.


----------



## Byron

Sounds good, ttown. Any pics?

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## ttown

Byron said:


> Sounds good, ttown. Any pics?
> 
> Best Regards,
> Byron


I bought a few more Nite Brites over the weekend. I'll go ahead and make some tonight and take some pictures. Check back here sometime tomorrow.


----------



## ttown

*Pictures on Illuminated nocks*



ttown said:


> I bought a few more Nite Brites over the weekend. I'll go ahead and make some tonight and take some pictures. Check back here sometime tomorrow.


I have uploaded 5 pictures.

1. The first picture shows the tools I used and a finished product. I used 4 drill bits to step up the size of the hole in the nock. 1/16, 3/32, 1/8, and 5/32. The Nite Brite is slightly bigger than the 5/32 bit. When you get to this point, the nite brite will be really snug. You may have to work the 5/32 bit in the nock to remove addition material in order to get he nite brite light deep into the nock.

2. I used a dremel to grind down the nite brite light radius so the light will not encounter any friction when turned on/off.

3. The second picture shows a new nock and one that I have already completed. Look closely and you can see the bulb sticking out where the bow string will be. The bow string itself will turn the light on when you shoot the arrow.

4. The third picture shows the nock with the 5/32 hole.

5. The forth picture shows the nite brite inserted into the nock. You can see where I used the 1/16 bit to drill a whole in the side of the nock. I actually drilled the hole all the way out the other side.

6. The fifth picture shows how I turn the light off. I use a small precision screw driver. Simply stick it in the hole, find the bottom of the bulb, and push up to turn the light off.

7. Use some strong glue around the bottom of the nock to secure the battery in the nock.


----------



## masten

Made in Sweden








look in 3D http://www.jif.nu/ in your web browser, download "Bågpress (700 kb)."


----------



## araz2114

Masten... that is a cool drawing but I still don't understand it. Is there a working model that you can take a pic of and post here? I think that this is a neat concept but I want to see one.... might be interested in buying.


----------



## masten

Yes it functions and I have drawn it in cad and produced some. Perhaps can take some photos


----------



## araz2114

That would be very cool. By the way.... very nice CAD drawing.. nice work.


----------



## masten

Not the best picture


----------



## sticbow

Here is a canoe me and my daughtermade couple yrs ago.

Took about 2 months to build on spare time

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v310/bows/Canoe/

Click on slideshow the pics will be full screen


----------



## Biketrax

tazman7 said:


> For the PVC feeder: can you use 4" pvc or do you need the 6"?? The 6" is pretty expensive, especially for the adapter piece.


I did use 4 inch however a PROBLEM occured. I guess a little water seeped in and the tube got clogged I tried clearing it but requires a good cleaning. You can try and be creative for the feed section.binstead of buying the adaptor.
So If you can get your hands on some 6 inch I would go that way.
:wink:
But the good news is I was posted the other day and even though the feeder was empty for a month these 4 does went right up to it. So I am going to get it working again for the late season!!


----------



## MrHoss

It is really late/early Christmas morning and I am going to bump this so I can finish reading this entire post another day.


----------



## elpepe25

my optics setup, lined up so i can find the object in my binos, the look through my spotting scope at it


----------



## dtl2441

*Sticbow*

Wow great job on the canoe! Thanks for all the photos. I am sure your daughter will remember this experience for the rest of her life. Good job on the canoe, and a better job on spending quality time with your daughter.
Job well done.


----------



## la.basscat

*The bow cave*

Archery room I just did inside the garage storage room


----------



## Unk Bond

la.basscat said:


> Archery room I just did inside the garage storage room
> View attachment 331540



Very Nice lay out.i see you done some planing 

Now i just halft to ask .The name of the recurve bow hanging on your wall.:wink:


----------



## flybyjohn

*homemade EZ press and drawboard combo*

I made this press and then as I was pulling out my draw board, I had a great idea to make some attachments to this press to use as a draw board. The draw board attachments are just prototype right now but will be made out of steel and have plastic protection to protect the bow from any metal. The orange strap is just a safety strap in case the d loop breaks and the beauty about it is that the string stays in the same place and the bow moves outward and so the safety strap does not need adjusting.


----------



## flybyjohn

*few more pictures*

just a few more pictures of it in use.


----------



## rogueworrior

Nice!

J


----------



## la.basscat

Unk Bond said:


> Very Nice lay out.i see you done some planing
> 
> Now i just halft to ask .The name of the recurve bow hanging on your wall.:wink:


That's a Black Hawk 35# recurve


----------



## 458win

*tag*

Everyone that has contributed so far.. Thanks! :darkbeer: Awesome thread!


----------



## density

phew that took long to read it all...but it gave me interesting ideas as far as camera mounts and the pvc tubing feeders...ive actually just come back from buying enough pvc/spray paint to make 15 feeders...the patch of land I own does not have any pig/deer/anything on it but it does have alot of rabbits, occasionally the small fox, etc. so that should make for some fun shooting...


----------



## Despain

la.basscat said:


> Archery room I just did inside the garage storage room
> View attachment 331540


I am building a bow/man space as we speek.


----------



## jasonflair50

ttt for a great thread. really helped me pass the time at work today.


----------



## foxtail

It took a long time to read this entire post. Only two sessions and I have read it all.

I have learned much from you guys, thanks.


----------



## bbaumer

flybyjohn said:


> I made this press and then as I was pulling out my draw board, I had a great idea to make some attachments to this press to use as a draw board. The draw board attachments are just prototype right now but will be made out of steel and have plastic protection to protect the bow from any metal. The orange strap is just a safety strap in case the d loop breaks and the beauty about it is that the string stays in the same place and the bow moves outward and so the safety strap does not need adjusting.


Very nice work. I am impressed! Thanks for sharing.


----------



## mtmedic

I posted pics of my bench in its own thread but thought I would add them here too. I got the basic idea from this site and them went with my own dimensions. My bench ended up 8" long and 32" deep and 41 7/16" tall.


Thanks guys for all the cool stuff in here!!!


----------



## WiseGuy

*Antler dog whistle*

When I got my new Lab, I knew she'd need a whistle to match her style.



















The inspiration


----------



## WiseGuy

*Knives*

Here's a couple knives I put together from purchased blanks 

Skinner

















Filet


----------



## Misfire

Very nice work Wiseguy! They are beautiful! 

I love the skinner. Where did you get the blank? 

.


----------



## 12ptDropTine

Yup where did the Blank come from?


----------



## mike

i saw it on another thread

http://www.jantzsupply.com/cartease/


----------



## WiseGuy

Thank You

I started at 'koval knives'. I think they merged with Jantz. Mike has the correct site, I believe. That skinner is a suprisingly heavy knife - a thick blank. 
Have fun.


----------



## Misfire

Yup, looks like Jantz is the only supplier. Apparently Mr. and Mrs. Koval have passed and the business went to Jantz. Unfortunately, there are no pics just red X on all the Koval knife pics so I can't figure out what model the skinner is. I'll shoot them an e-mail; hopefully it is still available. 

I have done a few blanks myself using Bocote and Hickory for the scales and handles but none of them have turned out as nice as yours WiseGuy. Once again, Great Work and thanks for the help guys! 

.


----------



## Backwoodsarcher

Decided I need a cart to haul deer on in places I can't get a four wheeler to, and after reading this thread you'll gave me ideas on how to do it, here it is so far, not finished yet, but so far I do not have a penny in it, all the parts have came from old lawn mowers. Best of all it folds up into a small package for easy transport, just got to figure out what to use in the center, I am going to run cables like on the platform of the loc on treestands to hold it where I want it.


----------



## smesk403

Just wondering if anyone has made any homemade climbing sticks/climbing ladders out of the screw in tree steps? I bought 3 sets of climbing sticks this year and will never go back to the screw in steps. Now I am left with 50+ screw in steps and would still like to put them to use. thought maybe you could weld the screw in steps to some square tubing and achieve a result much like store bought ladders. althought for the price of steel these days you might as well go out and just by manufactured climbing sticks.


----------



## madarchery

I have a pile of tubing. So the stickas are cheap for me. I thought as you did with the pegs. But for the price of pegs they would make expensive sticks and heavy. You can get rid of the pegs in classifieds and go buy/make the sticks. If you need a buyer contact pm me.


----------



## OHIOBUCK

A couple of pics of my homemade deer mounts.


----------



## OHIOBUCK




----------



## smesk403

Not quite as extravagant as Ohio's. but all done by myself. anyone interested I could do some antlers you. Better then throwing them in a box in the garage. Last one is a European mount of one of my 2007 archery Bucks. Still working on a base.


----------



## Misfire

Wiseguy inspired me to put a handle on a blank so here is my attempt.. 

Bocote Handle with hand turned bocote pins.. 



















.


----------



## racarchery

Wiseguy & Misfire those knifes are truly things of beauty, very nice!!! and two very talented guys to say the least....


----------



## Hep

racarchery said:


> Wiseguy & Misfire those knifes are truly things of beauty, very nice!!! and two very talented guys to say the least....



I'll 2nd that. Nice :darkbeer:


----------



## passthru68

Portable bow/arrow holder while shooting targets. heated and bent 3/8 cold roll.


----------



## Riffer

This thread is great, I never thought of welding myself a game cart.


----------



## Riffer

WiseGuy said:


> When I got my new Lab, I knew she'd need a whistle to match her style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inspiration


Those look so cool! You wanna tell me how you made them?


----------



## Centaur 1

*Homemade stabilizer and quick disconnect*

Here are some pics of the stabilizer and QD that I machined. The Stab uses the end of a Doinker and I used arrow pieces sent to me by rpford53. The QD was built from a picture of the Vibracheck. It's angled downward 10 degrees, I haven't decided if this helps or not but I think that it raises the cool factor.

Thanks again Bob


----------



## XP35

Cool stuff guys! Let's keep this one near the top, OK?:nod:


----------



## Centaur 1

ttt


----------



## Bill Junior

I've been using the homemade scent killer I found on AT...seems to work..wasn't winded as far as I know this past season.


----------



## ILLbucknut

Bill Junior said:


> I've been using the homemade scent killer I found on AT...seems to work..wasn't winded as far as I know this past season.


Homemade scent killer is the best, no store bought stuff can compare. Homemade scent killer is proven to work by the Illbucknut university.:wink:


----------



## rk91279

*I made it,,,,,,*

Finally got to the end,, allot of great ideas. Someone could write a book with all the info here. :darkbeer:


----------



## mdewitt71

*Bump it up.......*

I had to do a search to find this thread, it has been so long since I have saw it on the front page......

I am not getting email notificaions like I use to.


----------



## araz2114

mdewitt71... go to the top of the page and click on "thread tools" there is an option to "subscribe to thread" Click on that. If you are already subscribed the option will be "unsubscribe to thread". Also check to make sure your security isn't to high and not allowing Archerytalk. Check your junk mail box also if you have one. 

Hope that helps,


----------



## mdewitt71

araz2114 said:


> mdewitt71... go to the top of the page and click on "thread tools" there is an option to "subscribe to thread" Click on that. If you are already subscribed the option will be "unsubscribe to thread". Also check to make sure your security isn't to high and not allowing Archerytalk. Check your junk mail box also if you have one.
> 
> Hope that helps,


I did all of that.............not sure why but, I am still not getting email notifications anymore......not that I am complaining, as much was post'n, it was filling my mailbox up. :wink:


----------



## WiseGuy

*Gaiter*

Here's a simple one. 
This neck gaiter is really, really warm. I pull it up just under my eyes. 

Double layered Predator fleece.


----------



## IChim2

One of my 2 targets.....Bow/gun cabnet...bow stand and another gun cabnet...My bar i made to match our house..where i piddle with my bows.


----------



## badaxehunter

kevin that camper is unreal man awesome job


----------



## cornfedkiller

WiseGuy said:


> Here's a simple one.
> This neck gaiter is really, really warm. I pull it up just under my eyes.
> 
> Double layered Predator fleece.


My buddy and I did the same thing..Bought a fleece camo hat from Wal-Mart for like $3.50, cut the top off it, and use it as a neck/face mask..

We've also made homemade climbing sticks, footrests for our stands, shooting rests for our stands (for rifle season), and a quiver riser (moves the kwikee mount from your sight up about 4 or so inches, and keeps the arrows inside the limbs..kwickee sells the same thing, but we were bored and thought it'd be cool to make some for ourselves)...


----------



## cornfedkiller

Oh and IChim2, I really like the bow/gun cabinet..That thing looks really nice..Nice work..


----------



## IChim2

jakeduehn said:


> Oh and IChim2, I really like the bow/gun cabinet..That thing looks really nice..Nice work..


Thanks.


----------



## Misfire

It's not nearly as nice as WiseGuy's but here is my version of the Mule Skinner. I thought I’d like the thin scales but now I’m wishing I had made them a bit thicker. Hopefully it will grow on me. 





















.


----------



## 12ptDropTine

ttt


----------



## ruffme

homebrew aqua view


----------



## buckeyboy

*my home brew bow press*


----------



## huntnfreak

I
use milkweed to test the wind, just dry it out in a baggie with holes and lea



ve it on the window sill until theres no moisture. Stuff in a 35m container and you not only see which way the wind is blowing , but what its doing 10 to 20 yards away.


----------



## neill91_maui

i modified my release it had the bolt instead of rope so i got my dremal and cut the bolt off and drilled a hole in the head and put some rope thru it. it work's good i had 2 release's so i used my cheaper one just incase it broke.


----------



## PSE76

WiseGuy said:


> 6" PVC Feeder


We make the same thing only instead of the elbow fitting at the bottom, we glue another cap and drill out with a 5/8's paddle bit on the bottom of the pvc cap. The deer will work on it only getting a couple of pieces at a time. And do so for 5 minutes or so at a time.


----------



## monster10rackst

Great feeder......I think i may need to make one


----------



## Misfire

In response to a PM from Madarchery, 

The knife on page 31 as well as those on the previous page were purchased blade blanks from Jantz. We simply put the handles on them. I hope to one day grind my own blades but right now I don't have the proper tooling so I figure if I do a few "kits" to hold me over. 

I have since made a wooden sheath for the skinner. It is just a novely and isn't really useful but this knife is a gift so I thought it would be neat to do a sheath. 




























.


----------



## slamjammer1

*Home made sts.*

Not the prettiest thing I've ever created but it seems to work. The length is adjustable.


----------



## Skiatookbandman

Hey IChim2, great idea on the bow stand. If you could post a little closer shot and tell me if you built it out of pvc I think my wife really wants me to have one for our living room.


----------



## sticbow

Any one have any plans for a 10 foot tripod stand? There use to be plans somewhere. But, I can't find them now.

I sorta remember some of the things involved, But want to be sure of all the material needed. And how it goes together.


----------



## trkeyterminator

Yea ive seen some youtube vids where they make lumnocks but I didnt know where they got the light! thanks. has anyone made a string sts? pics?


----------



## araz2114

trkeyterminator.... you're kidding right??? The STS is on this page and as far as the "luminocks" well it looks like you will be doing some reading of earlier posts on this thread.... but it is a good read.... just make sure you have a couple of hours


----------



## KSHUNTR07

Ive always made homemade tree stands


----------



## trkeyterminator

yea ive read the whole thing and I was assuming everyone knew I ment other than the limb dampener on a rod... as for the lumenocks I got everything...


----------



## Millwood Mudd

skiatookbandman said:


> Hey IChim2, great idea on the bow stand. If you could post a little closer shot and tell me if you built it out of pvc I think my wife really wants me to have one for our living room.


I like the stand, too. LARGER PIC


----------



## mplant

*Lenses*

Hi, I saw a couple of home made scopes in this thread. Where do you guys get your lenses for these. Is there a supplier of low cost lenses out there.
Cheers.


----------



## araz2114

*Lenses*

Mplant... I use either Speciality lenses or DY (Damn Yankee) lenses. The DY are good and light as they are plastic.... good plastic. They are a slightly smaller diameter than Speciality. You can buy Speciality anywhere and you can buy DY on Archerytalk.. Just PM him or do a search for DY optics.


----------



## 458win

*Easy way to fletch arrows*

Glue your vanes/feathers to your arrow wraps before placing them on a arrow. 

You just have to determine beforehand how far you want the fletching up the shaft and whether you want straight, L or R Helical. I always just place my fletchings a inch from the end of the wrap. Just use a pencil to draw a straight line across the wrap so you have a starting point for each fletch. 

Depending on your arrows you will have to take a tape measure and measure the distance between the CENTER of two fletchings (hopefully you already have at least one fletched arrow handy) On my axis shafts its 5/16th of a inch center to center on a 3 fletch arrow.

Using this information place 3 tick marks every 5/16 (for axis) on the perpendicular line you just drew across the Wrap.

1. Take a protractor and set it for 85, 90 or 95 degrees (depending on whether you want LH Helical, Straight, RH Helical) 

2. Lay your arrow wrap on a table long side leading away from you, butt the end of the wrap up against the protractor.

3. Utilizing your tick marks pencil a line long enough for your fletchings I.E. 2inch line for blazers/rayzrs, 4inch line for 4inch vanes...etc 

4. Next grab a fletch, put glue on, line it up on the line and press down with it pinched between your fingers.

5. Repeat step 4 for the last 2 fletches.

6. Once the glue dries take the wrap, peel off the back and whichever side is farthest away from the closest fletch gingerly place on your arrow lengthwise. Make sure to press it from the center to the ends so you don't get a bubble. Then just work your way around the arrow.

7. Go shoot it

I hope I didn't make this sound complicated, its not at all. After you do a couple its amazing how many you can do in a very short time. It also saves $$$ by not buying a fletching jig and gives you the versatility of 3 fletch, 4 fletch, aluminum/carbon...whatever. I really like it because I can do a few extra and have them with me when I hunt or go shoot. If a fletch gets damaged just peel the old wrap off, slap a new one on and your good to go in minutes. Only downside is you have to use wraps.:darkbeer:


----------



## Unk Bond

mplant said:


> Hi, I saw a couple of home made scopes in this thread. Where do you guys get your lenses for these. Is there a supplier of low cost lenses out there.
> Cheers.


If you saw mine.I made it.About a 15 minute job. :wink:
If you got those old cheap reading glasses over there.Take 100 plus pair .Also a pair of 75 plus would be nice.But they won't sell 75 plus over here. And it will make 2 lense.Also you can buy the blank lense for glasses and cut them down.About $15.00 over here. The blanks come in diaopters.You would want the 25-50-or,75 diaopters thats = to A archers power lense.


----------



## araz2114

*Danm Yankee*

Is where I have got lenses from in the past. I also use Speciality lenses...

Have fun,


----------



## ddworkm

Question on the Mule Skinner. How can a make the handle. My woodworking experience is pretty much zero. Am I up sh*t creek?


----------



## WayLayer

Misfire said:


> I use tampons.
> 
> They make great scent bombs. They will absorb as much scent as you want to put in them and have a convient string to tie them up or throw them with.
> 
> Best of all, you can buy a box of 50 for less than 10 of the commercial scent bombs.
> 
> 
> Oh yea,
> 
> 
> 
> BUMP


Is use em too and work well, make sure unscented though.:wink: 
I make cover spray by boiling
Pine/spruce needles, leaves, sticks, bark. Then strain out and spray on cloths and let dry. I also will boil spruce/pine needles and with the needle broth wash cloths in it. I also take apple cider and boil it down, mix with vanilla and use as attractant. I spray the apple vanilla and will use tampons for deer scents. Here is also a link to a smoker i use to smoke binds, tree stands, clothes lighty, and body. I also tried to make some lighted nocks and messed most of them up, really a pain for me to get right. I made a decent blind out of pvc and camo netting, its a permenant set up though or at least seasonal.


----------



## Centaur 1

Millwood Mudd said:


> I like the stand, too. LARGER PIC


Ditto


----------



## bbaumer

*Bag target stand*

Little more attactive than my old one. Should go over better with the Mrs.:

Old:



















New made from some scrap treated lumber I had laying around:


----------



## jimineecricket

kool stuff


----------



## huntinfool84

ttt for a goog thread


----------



## mdewitt71

bbaumer, that timber target holder is pretty nice, the wife would let that something that nice to stay in the yard year round. :darkbeer:


----------



## smesk403

just kicked this out last night. everything but a single spur is from this year.


----------



## nick snook

*home made collar tool*

I recently modified a mini pipe cutter that you can get in most hardware stores to make inexpensive collars for my carbon shafts.
I had some old 2214 easton shafts and found they fit over my carbons with a little space, so I did a test with some hot melt glue and came up with some home made collars.
All I did to the pipe cutter was remove the screw that holds the cutting wheel and replaced it with a slightly longer screw and added a flat washer.
The flat washer acts as an indexing device so that when I put a shaft in the tool it pushes up against the washer.
I am able to cut identical length pieces of tubing that I then hot glue on to the back of my carbon shafts. I use low temp glue and no open flames on the shaft.
I use a heat gun on low but you can also use a hair dryer.

The collars weigh 4.5 grains.
You can probably find other size aluminum shafts that will fit other size carbons like the Axis and Acc etc.
Attached Images

__________________
Nick Snook

OPENING SOON!!- TURBO NOCK FACTORY
internet store.


----------



## Trebono

Simple bag stand/frame I made. Used some hook bolts thru the top. Can remove/flip/rotate bag in about 15 seconds to go from spots to silhouette or replace bag. I can break it down and move it inside in no time. Very stable, even on uneven ground. Can move it to any place in the yard very easily, and can throw it in the pick up and take it anywhere.


----------



## Gerhard

Misfire said:


> In response to a PM from Madarchery,
> 
> The knife on page 31 as well as those on the previous page were purchased blade blanks from Jantz. We simply put the handles on them. I hope to one day grind my own blades but right now I don't have the proper tooling so I figure if I do a few "kits" to hold me over.
> 
> I have since made a wooden sheath for the skinner. It is just a novely and isn't really useful but this knife is a gift so I thought it would be neat to do a sheath.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That is really awesome....


----------



## Unk Bond

nick snook said:


> I recently modified a mini pipe cutter that you can get in most hardware stores to make inexpensive collars for my carbon shafts.
> I had some old 2214 easton shafts and found they fit over my carbons with a little space, so I did a test with some hot melt glue and came up with some home made collars.
> All I did to the pipe cutter was remove the screw that holds the cutting wheel and replaced it with a slightly longer screw and added a flat washer.
> The flat washer acts as an indexing device so that when I put a shaft in the tool it pushes up against the washer.
> I am able to cut identical length pieces of tubing that I then hot glue on to the back of my carbon shafts. I use low temp glue and no open flames on the shaft.
> I use a heat gun on low but you can also use a hair dryer.
> 
> The collars weigh 4.5 grains.
> You can probably find other size aluminum shafts that will fit other size carbons like the Axis and Acc etc.
> Attached Images
> 
> __________________
> Nick Snook
> 
> OPENING SOON!!- TURBO NOCK FACTORY
> internet store.


------------------------
 these collars.Are you makeing them .So you can use that type fletching.Explain your need for collars please


----------



## nick snook

there are a lot of archers putting Collars on their carbon shafts to strengthen them and increase the arrows life. They help reduce damage in 3d shoots.
There are commercial companies selling collars. I just figured out this simple way to make them. 
They are not required to shoot my products, I just thought I would give the concept a try.
They work with any type fletching.

I do a lot of test shooting and grouping tests and have damaged a good many arrows over the years.
I am currently working on a 4x pistol scope mounted on my bow and it is quite accurate, I want to try some real groupings at distances and figure perhaps the collars will cut down on damage.
Yeah I know I could just shoot at separate targets, but a real group is a real group.If you go to you tube and type in TURBONOCK in the search area you can see some test videos .


----------



## razerbax

gotta :bump: this one. this thread is the reason that I got hooked on AT!:wink:


----------



## huntaholic

*Bump....*

TTT.....

Good stuff fellas...


----------



## Big Bull Joe

*Don't let this thread die.*

One of if not the best thread on AT. Keep them coming!:darkbeer:


----------



## tazman7

I just made this one the other day. i used two 6" lag bolts and lag bolted it to the tree, and welded together a box that i could attach a padlock too..

the way I see it is if they cant steal it they will just destroy it so i guess we will see what happens.

how hard is it to take a rock and thrwo it at the camera?

But I have plans on building another one that is rock poof too...stay tuned


----------



## chumette

huntaholic said:


> Flo Yellow Easton Nock with Nite Brite Turned on. Hope this helps!!


What turns the LEDs on & off?


----------



## Gerhard

ttt


----------



## Unk Bond

tazman7 said:


> I just made this one the other day. i used two 6" lag bolts and lag bolted it to the tree, and welded together a box that i could attach a padlock too..
> 
> the way I see it is if they cant steal it they will just destroy it so i guess we will see what happens.
> 
> how hard is it to take a rock and thrwo it at the camera?
> 
> But I have plans on building another one that is rock poof too...stay tuned


------------------------
Nice out fit.But I do beleve i would add camo tape to cover it.[Later


----------



## Luckybuck1

ttt:darkbeer:


----------



## MysticFlight

*My New Vse*


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello
That is a very well built bow vice :thumbs_up


----------



## zmax hunter

Not mine but not a bad way to cross the creek without getting your feet wet, especially if the water is up.


----------



## bowhunter2007

zmax hunter said:


> Not mine but not a bad way to cross the creek without getting your feet wet, especially if the water is up.


That is freaking sweet man haha


----------



## PAstringking

mgbarr71....that is a great looking vise!! seems to work very well in all situations!!

how much time and effort do you have involved in it??


----------



## madarchery

mgbar.

If there was a vise to sell you have it.

Only concern was the long screww adj. Looks like it would hit in the 1 pic.

But again as above how much??:wink:


----------



## MysticFlight

madarchery said:


> mgbar.
> 
> If there was a vise to sell you have it.
> 
> Only concern was the long screww adj. Looks like it would hit in the 1 pic.
> 
> But again as above how much??:wink:



Thanks 

Ya the screw s a little long but I can also adjust the vise down quite a bit as well. Figured this would help on on 3rd axis adjustment. As far as time involved I have about 6 or 7 hours in that one. The first one I made I had about 12 or 14 in and then decided to change a few things. As far as selling them I dint have near the equipment or machining tools to be able to in a cost effective manor. Most of the work was done with a plain old drill and angle grinder. I did the welding on my lunch at work.


----------



## [email protected]

mgbarr 71, that is a Lexus! Great design! I copied mine from one cabelas sold a few years ago.Simple to make & quite functional.:darkbeer:


----------



## [email protected]

Add Pic you dummy!


----------



## Bobmuley

Not mine. Just one I found while out working.


----------



## No.1 Hoyt

Custom selfbows. Who needs a compound to be accurate!:wink:


----------



## No.1 Hoyt

forgot a full draw


----------



## Grizzly_Adams

you guys are a great combo of cheap and genius.


----------



## zmax hunter

Just a few very simple things to do with antlers.

Everyone should have some "bone" on their keyring.

Bottle opener and cork puller.

Coat hanger with Osage Orange.

Ceiling fan pull chain ornament.

Hope you like them.


----------



## zmax hunter

mgbarr71 said:


>


I think you made an awesome vise, dont get me wrong, i was just thinking, what if you reversed the T" handle, then removed the T', make it longer and drill a hole through the work table and extended it down inside the base cabinet, take an old 1/2' electric drill and chuck the allthread into it, then one could wire the switch and the reverse switch outside on the cabinet. select your in or out and press a momentary switch and let the drill run the bolt in and out for adjustment? Just thinking, .....again, awesome vise.


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

A camp oven allows you to cook any roasted meal that you can do at home. I made a tripod from conduit and the grill from an old Webber. 










I rolled 4 tubes from chicken wire or 1/4 inch square mesh. The tube are 4 inches in diameter and 3 feet long (the width of the roll) The tubes are to hold the coals.










I then wrap the 4 tubes in heavy aluminum foil to hold the heat in.










Place your bird or your roast or loin on the grill with what ever sides you want to cook and cover the top with foil. I stick a probe thermometer in the top of the foil.
Add coals by tapping the sides of the tubes until the ash settles to make room for more coals.



















Just because your in the middle of nowhere does not mean you have to live on bologna.


----------



## zmax hunter

dang! making me :hungry: Potatoes done yet?


----------



## zmax hunter

This is my camp grill, I used a tractor rim, then bent a piece of 2"angle iron in a circle, welded in the cross brace and expanded metal. It works good for cooking steaks,chicken, chops, etc. not so good for burgers. It does however, keep the fire and coals well contained. It is 40" in diameter.


----------



## Unk Bond

zmax hunter said:


> This is my camp grill, I used a tractor rim, then bent a piece of 2"angle iron in a circle, welded in the cross brace and expanded metal. It works good for cooking steaks,chicken, chops, etc. not so good for burgers. It does however, keep the fire and coals well contained. It is 40" in diameter.



Nice idea


----------



## dobber5810

*quiver holder*

There are some many great ideas and inventions! It took me days to get through them all, but it was worth it. Hats off to everyone that posted. I'll add mine. I made my own quiver holder. Used while in your stand, no more looking for a branch to hang it on. enjoy.


----------



## Rebelroot

rancid crabtree said:


> a camp oven allows you to cook any roasted meal that you can do at home. I made a tripod from conduit and the grill from an old webber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i rolled 4 tubes from chicken wire or 1/4 inch square mesh. The tube are 4 inches in diameter and 3 feet long (the width of the roll) the tubes are to hold the coals.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i then wrap the 4 tubes in heavy aluminum foil to hold the heat in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> place your bird or your roast or loin on the grill with what ever sides you want to cook and cover the top with foil. I stick a probe thermometer in the top of the foil.
> Add coals by tapping the sides of the tubes until the ash settles to make room for more coals.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just because your in the middle of nowhere does not mean you have to live on bologna.


that is an awesome idea!!!!!!


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

Homemade ladder stand from elec. conduit.


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

My homemade shop for butchering and sausage making and knife making and arrow making etc. 18 x 24 With a game hoist in the ceiling and an epoxy floor.




























Where I have my boys do the skinning.


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

More DIY fun.


----------



## zmax hunter

Rancid Crabtree said:


> More DIY fun.


I think I will use the kids Guinne pig, :chortle: dang varmint anyway


----------



## Grizzly_Adams

not nearly as cool or involved as the rest of yah but, i made a wrist sling the other day.

550 para cord 
leather cord
old leather belt

tadah


----------



## Centaur 1

*Tree stand buggy*

I had back surgery a couple of months ago and I can no longer carry my stand in the woods. I made this using an old golf bag caddy that I painted with camo paint.


----------



## Jennings

*My homemade target*

Here are pictures of my homemade target and stand. The target is made from 2x4's, a bit of angle iron, steel rods, and foam insulation. I used to use cardboard but it got messy and very heavy. The insulation is incredibly light and eay to work with. I bought 6 sheets and just cut them into 24" by 10". Total cost under $30

The stand is made from 1.5" PVC pipe. I didn't glue and of the fittings so I can break it down for transportation. But I did put screws in the joints that I didn't need to seperate. Cost was under $30.


----------



## ESMO-Joe

Rancid Crabtree said:


> A camp oven allows you to cook any roasted meal that you can do at home. I made a tripod from conduit and the grill from an old Webber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I rolled 4 tubes from chicken wire or 1/4 inch square mesh. The tube are 4 inches in diameter and 3 feet long (the width of the roll) The tubes are to hold the coals.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then wrap the 4 tubes in heavy aluminum foil to hold the heat in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place your bird or your roast or loin on the grill with what ever sides you want to cook and cover the top with foil. I stick a probe thermometer in the top of the foil.
> Add coals by tapping the sides of the tubes until the ash settles to make room for more coals.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just because your in the middle of nowhere does not mean you have to live on bologna.


I'm going to have to try that set up for the next camp out with the Scout group, very cool.

Any ballpark on cooking times?


----------



## SSLegacy

ttt


----------



## tntc

Here is my homemade camper that I built from the ground up last spring/summer.
You can read more about it here.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...47#post7335947


----------



## Huaco

tntc said:


> Here is my homemade camper that I built from the ground up last spring/summer.
> You can read more about it here.
> 
> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...47#post7335947


Great looking camper man... 

Unfortunatley, the link does not work. I MUST know more about this! I WANT one!


----------



## Byron

Huaco said:


> Great looking camper man...
> 
> Unfortunatley, the link does not work. I MUST know more about this! I WANT one!


Try this one. I searched his old posts. :wink:

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## tntc

Huaco said:


> Great looking camper man...
> 
> Unfortunatley, the link does not work. I MUST know more about this! I WANT one!


Dooh! Try this one

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=730241


----------



## araz2114

Nice work..... That looks like a riot. I would love to build one.... not going to happen in the near future. Maybe on the back burner.


----------



## YoteHunter

Bump and how do subscribe to this thread?


----------



## Hoyt Thompson

YoteHunter said:


> Bump and how do subscribe to this thread?


Scroll to the top of the page.
Look just off the center of the screen to the right.
You will see a bar that reads "Thread Tools".
Click on it and a drop down menu will appear.
Click on the subcribe link and follow it from there.


----------



## outdooraholic

wow this thread rocks!!! thanks so much for the homemade lighted nocks!

these arent nessecarilly homemade items, but i guess theyre just new ways to use particular items.

1. i use a 1/2 gallon handheld pump fertilizer (new) sprayer to apply scent killer. pump it up a couple times and spray away!

2. instead of lugging a 15ft. ladder stand around all over the place just to see theres a branch in the way, i use a 16ft. telescoping crappie pole with an orange tip and just lean it up against the tree. with the orange tip i can walk away from the tree to see if ill be skylined, have enough cover, ect... also makes a great walking stick


----------



## FL-HNT-N-FSH

in the process of making a custom cat quiver. will post pics when done


----------



## outdooraholic

up - keep her goin!


----------



## twoshotlaw

*keep this thread going*

Like it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Buckshot101

Anyone ever tried this mineral recipe? 

2 lb Powdered Sugar
2 lb Baking Powder
2 lb Rock Salt or Table Salt
3-5 Packets of Grape Kool-Aid

All of this can be gotten at a grocery store or Wal-Mart without going to a feed store.


----------



## PONDER

this thread should be a stickie in the new DIY forum


----------



## jcdup

coreyponder said:


> this thread should be a stickie in the new DIY forum


+1

Awesome stuff!


----------



## araz2114

Where is the DIY forum? I looked but I must be blind....


----------



## AirForceVet

Buckshot101 said:


> Anyone ever tried this mineral recipe?
> 
> 2 lb Powdered Sugar
> 2 lb Baking Powder
> 2 lb Rock Salt or Table Salt
> 3-5 Packets of Grape Kool-Aid
> 
> All of this can be gotten at a grocery store or Wal-Mart without going to a feed store.


what does the baking powder have to do in the recipe? on dirt? Log? etc?


----------



## Buckshot101

Baking soda has a couple of minerals found in deers' antlers.


----------



## IGluIt4U

araz2114 said:


> Where is the DIY forum? I looked but I must be blind....


You are posting in it .. :wink: :lol:


----------



## MysticFlight

araz2114 said:


> Where is the DIY forum? I looked but I must be blind....


Yhis thread has been moved to the DIY. To access the DIY there is a link at the very top of the General Archery Discussion page.


----------



## xxclaro

Well, here's a few things I've made. I'll try to post the pics, hopefully it works.
#1 Quiver for my trad arrows









#2 Couple sets of climbing sticks, and a big 'ol comfy hang-on









#3 Climber me and my dad built, my shot up target stand in the background 









#4 My deer cart and bow rack


----------



## kulprit

Bump


----------



## AndrewNJ

Huntaholic,
I saw your posts about homemade lighted nocks. Very good description.
I made a few myself and just want to share my concerns and results.

As a base i used youtube video and a few posts on a various boards. It all came down to :
1. order of the light
2. gluing the light into the nock
Here my implementations took 2 different courses
1. cut the part of another nock, insert it into the shaft and after sanding down the nock with light gluing it into the stopper inside the shaft.

2. No stopper inside the shaft - every time i need to turn on/off the nock - i pull it out and turn on or off.

field tests:
1. I did 3D on around 20 stands. Each stand had 3 arrows with lighted nocks fired at. Sometimes, when i was not satisfied with my aiming the shooting sequence was repeated.

Results:

The good part :
1. shots with lighted nocks improved my confidence and allowed me to shoot better and more consistent - i was able to see where exactly the arrow hit a target.

The bad part :
1. After approximately 15 shots per arrow, nocks tend to stop working due to either slipping too deep into the shaft and ripping the light from the glued spot or if the "stopper" holds in place the battery bends making it nonfunctional.

Observation:

The breakage mostly occurs when arrow hits нард сурфаце - а tree or а stone. Forces that arise during those импацтс cause 95% of all malfunctions observed.

The worst part - even the miss on the target not resulted in direct hit on the hard surface leads either to nock been "ejected" from the shaft or light being off due to internal ( see above ) damage, making arrow recovery as difficult as a regular one.

I certainly hope that you can point me to workaround and'/or my design mistake
Thank you
Andrew


----------



## huntaholic

Below is a diagram on how I built mine (someone else took the time to create this but it's the exact same method I do).

Instead of the sewin needle, I actually use staples and pin the plastic collar on the LED in three places to be sure it won't come loose. I no longer have to use the super glue and it really saves a ton of those LED's. 

Also if you use this method you won't have to insert the "stopper" in your shaft. The cut part of the nock on the bottom of the battery will replace the need for the "stopper". You have to super glue this on to keep it in place.

These changes should fix most of the issues you find.


----------



## billproxs

*HEY GUYS, on the lighted arrow nocks?*

i have a video you watch on utube showing you how to make these.they show how to use super glue to hold it in the arrow,you dont have to take anything apart to turn on and off the lights?you use an old arrow nock and just cut it off,for the end piece then super glue in the thill light in your nock.they will light upwhen you fire your bow/then you just turn thenm back off by pulling out on the arrow nock.you can still leave in the nock,if you want to and then take it aprt each time you want to turn it onstill,if you perfer that way?If anyone wants the video on how to make these just let me know.
Bill


----------



## billproxs

billproxs said:


> i have a video you watch on utube showing you how to make these.they show how to use super glue to hold it in the arrow,you dont have to take anything apart to turn on and off the lights?you use an old arrow nock and just cut it off,for the end piece then super glue in the thill light in your nock.they will light upwhen you fire your bow/then you just turn thenm back off by pulling out on the arrow nock.you can still leave in the nock,if you want to and then take it aprt each time you want to turn it onstill,if you perfer that way?If anyone wants the video on how to make these just let me know.
> Bill


I use these only to hunt with,to find game and to aid in seeing if i made a good shoot.!If you use them this way they will last a very long time and many season's.


----------



## Huaco

*Foam Target*

I had thought of something similar to this but them saw the target that Jennings had made. I decided to make this one a bit taller than his though. I drew up the target at work and printed them off there. It is printed on 24x36" paper and has 40 bulls on it! That ought to help with the FOBs. Now I don't have an excuse to shoot groups with them...
Anyway, here are the pix...


----------



## Huaco

Here are a few more Pix of my target... Just to let you know, I am 6'-1"+ tall.
Hope that gives some reference about the size of this thing.

I used Lowes foam sheathing board. Cut it lengthwise in the center and then cut each piece 9-5/8" wide. That got me all the cuts I needed and without any waste. Frame is made from (1) pressure treated 2x6x10' cut at 2'-4". The skids are made from PT 2x4x8' cut in half. I still need to cut the 1/2" all-thread off the top. I will use these as axles for my wheels.


----------



## bengalbrother

*I have a few posts onhere for Home made stuff*

check it out in the DIY


----------



## MNmike

*not homemade, but home modified*

Wanted to extend the fibers on my Extreme Recon sight.

I think I'll do the same with the other one I have.


----------



## 12ptDropTine

*At last!!!*

I have finally finished my Home Brew Blind...I have been working on this for just a little over a year..In my spare time. My work schedule has slowed me down a ton..Plus the re-vamp's as I went alonf. It is 6'X8' on a medium duty feed wagon running gear..I started with a light one and it wasnt sturdy enough..And this one is about 7 ft wide..It is 11' tall fully insulated..sliding window''s...Blacked out inside..It should be very easy to heat. I know some will be skeptical about whether or not it will work..I have another one that is 6X6 on 13 ft legs and we have killed alot of deer from it. Where I hunt has lots of field edges I can park this on..And a couple logging roads I can pull it down. I cant wait till its snowing and blowing to go get in it...Once it has been introduced to the property the deer will get as used to it as any other piece of farm equipment..and after the next generation of deer they wont pay any attention to it anymore.. I think it will take awhile to get them in bow range..But when they do ..All day hunts will be a breeze... I will post pics next...Drop


----------



## 12ptDropTine

It has a metal roof and metal siding....3.5 inches of insulation all the way around..even the floor...


----------



## 12ptDropTine

here are some more pics..including the inside


----------



## 12ptDropTine

more


----------



## Misfire

Several years ago a buddy of mine reintroduced me to traditional archery with a nice little takedown. He makes his own arrows, strings, knives, etc.. and appreciates homebrew stuff. I made him this hardcase this weekend as a "thank you" gift. I hope he likes it. 

It started out as solid oak 1x4 planks that I ripped down to ¼” X 4”. A bit of cutting, gluing and routing yielded a nice little longbow hard case. 


































.


----------



## huntaholic

Misfire said:


> Several years ago a buddy of mine reintroduced me to traditional archery with a nice little takedown. He makes his own arrows, strings, knives, etc.. and appreciates homebrew stuff. I made him this hardcase this weekend as a "thank you" gift. I hope he likes it.
> 
> It started out as solid oak 1x4 planks that I ripped down to ¼” X 4”. A bit of cutting, gluing and routing yielded a nice little longbow hard case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .




Man, that looks DAMN GOOD!!!

I've got an idea for some rests (bench) that we need to weld up.....


----------



## zmax hunter

Well, I finished my mobile deer hoist. Can't wait to hoist a nice buck with it.


----------



## Jennings

Huaco said:


> I had thought of something similar to this but them saw the target that Jennings had made. I decided to make this one a bit taller than his though. I drew up the target at work and printed them off there. It is printed on 24x36" paper and has 40 bulls on it! That ought to help with the FOBs. Now I don't have an excuse to shoot groups with them...
> Anyway, here are the pix...


Looks good!


----------



## ARShooter01

do you have anymore of those replacement lights?


----------



## crawdad

*Easy DIY arrow spinner*

I hope I am posting this in the right place. I saw some photos of some home-made stuff by j.d.m. from April '07 that inspired me.

My 11-year-old had some spare skateboard bearings, so all it took was a block of wood, in this case some scrap oak flooring, and 4 screws to hold 4 bearings in place. Talk about easy - set the arrow on and spin! I will admit that positioning the bearings for a good spin takes some careful drilling of pilot holes. Sorry about the focus on the second shot - I was in a hurry.














BY they way, I am looking for a product that someone may be able to help me find. At a former lease, a guy was making some box stands using 2 x 2's and sheets of the same waterproof stuff that political signs are made out of, except these were a plain green color. I've checked Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. even the web and can't find 8' x 4' sheets of it. This stuff makes a great, lightweight yet waterproof shooting house. Anybody know where to find it?

Thanks.


----------



## Misfire

You might find that corrugated plastic at a local sign shop. If not, here are a couple of links to order online. Be warned.. it is expensive. 

http://www.uline.com/BL_1854/Plastic-Corrugated-Pads?keywords=sign

http://www.rjsign.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Store_Code=RSS&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=CORSHT

.


----------



## crawdad

Thank you misfire. I think the shipping is going to be the high cost part of it. I was hoping to find some in a store, but it looks like I will have to order it. With the cost, it may be cheaper to just use plywood.


----------



## Huaco

crawdad said:


> Thank you misfire. I think the shipping is going to be the high cost part of it. I was hoping to find some in a store, but it looks like I will have to order it. With the cost, it may be cheaper to just use plywood.


Just go to a sign store and purchase some from them... look in the yellow pages.


----------



## Huaco

Oh... I forgot to mention... You may try at hobby shops too. These guys have learned to make RC airplanes from this stuff! Light weight and VERY strong in short spans like in wings.

Just a thought.


----------



## araz2114

Don't you guys have an election going on soon? I don't know what the American parties use but here in Canada they use a crap load of corrugated plastic for our election signs. Free if you are quick after the election date 

Just a thought...


----------



## crawdad

Thanks Araz. I know where there's a bunch of Obama signs that might be available on Nov. 5, but I'm scared they might get shot up in the Mississippi woods where I hunt. Plus they are blue and I need green. Maybe Nader has some green ones up.


Anybody know where I can get some Palin signs to decorate the inside of the stand?


----------



## bamarammin87

ozhuntsman said:


> here is my cross-hair .................


How did you make that? Thats awesome!


----------



## tannertt

ttt


----------



## freeslinger

bump


----------



## Brock-ID

*Game bags*









Here is some game bags I made. I was at an Estate sale and picked up some pillow casses that look like a pretty high thread count. Then I stopped by REI and picked up some of the smallest cord they had. They still allow the air to flow and keep the dirt and fly's out. I have installed gromets in others I made but I thought I would try it without on these.


----------



## atomic archer

Ok.....so it's not quite as DIY as some of you guys....but fun none-the-less.

Here's some pics of the targets I made for the kiddos when we're at the range.

This is a Tic-tac-toe target (we add balloons to the spots for some extra fun) and a mini Joad (this helps our kids when we want to focus on shooting at one bullseye). They're foam targets about 3" thick.....and they came with the weird gray streaking on them to begin with. 










And on the backs of those targets.....we have pool balls (which we play various billiards games like stripes vs. solids and shooting in numerical order) and a 5 spot target to help them really work on grouping. 










And finally......not too much DIY, but this thing had some seriously strong paint on it so I feel it's picture worthy! The before pic is really my husband's sight because I forgot to take a pic of mine, but they're the same, just a different year's model. I used a long list of various chemicals, but finally got the paint of with a metal polishing bit on a dremmel and some scrubbing with acetone in the hard to reach areas. I'm sure I spent more on chemicals than it would have cost just to have the darn thing done by someone else....but alas I did not let the sight win!!!:wink: I'm hoping to have it powder coated metallic purple to coordinate with my bow (pic doesn't look purple, but it's a blueberry Mathews and has a purple and blue mix).


----------



## Brock-ID

*Game Bags*

I forgot to add that when I picked up the cord I had two choices of a relaxed or stiff cord and I got the stiffer of the two. then I I did after I put the cord through is tie it off and singe the ends with a lighter.


----------



## SD BowHunter

*Bump! Bump! Bump!*

BUMP, for an awesome thread. :focus: Keep it going.:darkbeer::darkbeer::darkbeer:


----------



## savagehunter83

*Leather*

I thought I would try to make my dad a Knife sheath once and well I got addicted.


----------



## Huaco

savagehunter83 said:


> I thought I would try to make my dad a Knife sheath once and well I got addicted.


Beautiful work man... that is REALLY impressive.

I would LOVE to have a setup like the Blue Dummy gun for my 1911 frame! Man that is nice. How easy is it to conceal something like that setup?


----------



## REFLEXDEFLEX

atomic archer said:


> Ok.....so it's not quite as DIY as some of you guys....but fun none-the-less.
> 
> Here's some pics of the targets I made for the kiddos when we're at the range.
> 
> This is a Tic-tac-toe target (we add balloons to the spots for some extra fun) and a mini Joad (this helps our kids when we want to focus on shooting at one bullseye). They're foam targets about 3" thick.....and they came with the weird gray streaking on them to begin with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And on the backs of those targets.....we have pool balls (which we play various billiards games like stripes vs. solids and shooting in numerical order) and a 5 spot target to help them really work on grouping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally......not too much DIY, but this thing had some seriously strong paint on it so I feel it's picture worthy! The before pic is really my husband's sight because I forgot to take a pic of mine, but they're the same, just a different year's model. I used a long list of various chemicals, but finally got the paint of with a metal polishing bit on a dremmel and some scrubbing with acetone in the hard to reach areas. I'm sure I spent more on chemicals than it would have cost just to have the darn thing done by someone else....but alas I did not let the sight win!!!:wink: I'm hoping to have it powder coated metallic purple to coordinate with my bow (pic doesn't look purple, but it's a blueberry Mathews and has a purple and blue mix).


pics are down, and what's a mini joad?


----------



## bownarra

I'm curious as to why this huge thread is still going. As far as I can tell it began before there was a dedicated DIY forum and it's now about 35 pages long and kinda unwieldy. Wouldn't it make sense to discuss, say, targets in a target thread and slings in a sling thread? That way the info is easier to access, rather than smushing it all into a single monster thread where it's hard to find the good stuff. I mean, this whole subforum is about homemade stuff isn't it?


----------



## Hoyt Thompson

bownarra said:


> I'm curious as to why this huge thread is still going. As far as I can tell it began before there was a dedicated DIY forum and it's now about 35 pages long and kinda unwieldy. Wouldn't it make sense to discuss, say, targets in a target thread and slings in a sling thread? That way the info is easier to access, rather than smushing it all into a single monster thread where it's hard to find the good stuff. I mean, this whole subforum is about homemade stuff isn't it?


Well seeing it was here looooooooong before the DIY forum it is easier for most to post here as we all have it saved in our subscriptions.

Some have branched away from it but this thread was 30+ before the parent forum was developed.


----------



## PaScott6

savagehunter83 said:


> I thought I would try to make my dad a Knife sheath once and well I got addicted.


What do you sell them for?
They are awesome looking.


----------



## browningBAMA

*Tree stand floor silencer*

Well a lot of the time I like to go ahead and stand up when I think deer will be moving so I'm ready. I noticed that some times it would make my legs sore to stand on the bare metal of my climber (will work on any stand i guess). I also noticed that if the treestand had gotten wet that sometimes my rubber boots would squeak against the bare metal floor of my treestand.
So i got some of this stuff (i dont know what it's called) iv'e seen people use it in cabinets. And Iv'e also seen people use it on the bottom of furniture - rugs to keep them from moving around on hardwood floors. Well i measured the floor rails on my treestand. I then cut the "stuff" twice the lenth of the floor rails. I used heavy duty zip ties to secure the "stuff" onto the rails. Since i cut it twice the lenght of the floor rails, i folded over each piece to cover each rail twice. It seems like i used about three zip ties per floor rail. 
It has silenced any foot movement, added comfort to my feet and legs during those long stands waiting for deer, and quieted down treestand transport to and from the stand site. I'm not sure how much it cost but i'm pretty sure it's cheaper than buying some sort of silencing foam tape (witch can have glue that is impossible to remove). Here's the pics.
























Like i said, it's pretty cheap and very effective, if it wears out it's pretty dang innexspensive and uncomplicated to replace. Hope you like it. I sure do.


----------



## Nman77

*Lighted Nocks...*

Easy to do and they turn on by themselves!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMqLT-4ezzk&feature=related 


(This may already have been posted but oh well!)


----------



## ldoch

xxclaro, I just got done making a similation of your bow rack. To cool, thanks for posting that. It will be in the back yard for use this weekend.


----------



## Southern Guy

For scent we use to boil acorn and strain them bottle the left over down side is that we ruined a bunch of spray bottles.


----------



## Bow Ninja

I've been wanting a arrow saw for a long time, I cant believe you got the saw for $20, thats awsome! I'm going to check out Harbor Freight, how many RPMs do you get?


----------



## Bow Ninja

huntaholic said:


> Here's my arrow cut off saw. There was a post on AT that showed everyones and where to get the saw. I picked it up at Harbor Freight for around $20.00. Add some scrap plywood and trimed it out!!!



I've been wanting a arrow saw for a long time, I cant believe you got the saw for $20, thats awsome! I'm going to check out Harbor Freight, how many RPMs do you get?


----------



## Groundshrinkage

My dad has made his own hangon stands for years with plywood and some conduit. They work realy well but the seat is just a flat piece of plywood. I read through this entire thread I didn't see one I was looking for. If anyone has plans or pictures of a homemade stand (wooden, i.e. no welding required) that has a comfortable seat (not piece of plywood) i would love to see it.


----------



## Grizzly_Adams

go to walmart and get one of those plastic folding boat chairs. 
they have camo one's
there light weight
there padded 
and im pretty sure they swivvle


----------



## archerdog21

I can't seem to get the pics to open up??? could you re-post them???


----------



## buckmaster27

made these string stops for me and my girlfriends bows


----------



## Bama44

I built this stand for the greenfield i have at my house. it is approx 21 feet off the ground and completely supported by the tree itself, the only thing touching the ground is the ladder. it has 1 10ft 2x12 bolted on each side of the tree with 2x6 bracing in between. has 3/4" plywood for flooring, has 4x4 braces, and burlap for cover. has enough room for 2 people, 1 on each side of the tree, approx. 4 feet x 4 feet floor space on each side, works awesome!

the other pic isn't related to hunting but i was proud of it. i built it to hold my boat up to get it off the trailer so i could paint it.


----------



## cmherrmann

switchback_101 said:


> Heres a treestand that I made and made the seat using foam from walmart some wood and stapled the fabric around it tight.



I would add some cables for support from the upright to the base, you can never be too safe.


----------



## wbhinton

good info on here but it is pretty cluttered and unorganized with quite a few repeats.... needs to be consolidated


----------



## Huaco

wbhinton said:


> good info on here but it is pretty cluttered and unorganized with quite a few repeats.... needs to be consolidated


This was a thread in BowHunter showcase WAY before the DIY subforum came along. This was THE diy thread for quite a while.


----------



## irondawg

*trade point style broadheads*

i make my broadheads out of strapping that you put on heating and air conditioning ducts. i cut them to shape with straight tin snips and harden them with a bottle torch. i heat the tips after shaping till red then quench them in water. then let them cool about half then reheat them till red hot and quench them in oil (motor oil ,olive oil works too) then i do the final sharpening. have had no problems at all with them and have about a nickel in each of them give or take.


----------



## irondawg

*own stuff*

one cheap and very useful item when doing leatherwork is an old fork. simply flatten it and use it to mark your stitching holes. then use a dremel tool to drill your holes. it keeps your stiches even and uniform.


----------



## irondawg

i have pictures of my bow and arrows and quiver that i made also made my bow stringer and the knife and case for it. also have a hawk case and hand shaped a knife and made a drop sheath for it. am working on a bow case right now. have a album of some of my stuff. irondawg


----------



## irondawg

have made my own blunts with shell casings. use 38 special and 9mm will work but may have to wrap shaft with tape or string to fill if sloppy fit.


----------



## irondawg

if you use wood arrows a plumbing tubing cutter will do the job just fine the smaller ones is perfect for this job


----------



## irondawg

*help*

i have some pics of my homemade stuff and have photo album on my login, but dont know how to post picture to a thread or reply? any help would be greatly appreciated thanks irondawg


----------



## jorjo

just read the whole thread from start to finish.

WOW !..... Now I need sleep, tomorrow is gonna be a busy day !


----------



## judger101

I love looking at homemade items


----------



## BUS314

jerry/nj said:


> well nick, i have my gear down in my shop area in my basement and i dress there with my under layers. After i shower i go down there and spray myself down all over (naked style), lol. Then i dress. I take my outer garments in a rubbermaid container to put on when i get there. I use a plastic lightweight table cloth to sit on in my truck same side always so i am not picking up any odors from the truck seat. I carry a small bottle in my fanny pack and spray down my head, neck, hands area when i am done setting up. I use nonscented babywipes for my bow and arrows, dont spray this stuff on your bow ! It is an oxidizer and will rust screws.





so if the police pull ya over on yer way to hunt---are in ya longjohns???= lol


----------



## dinodonofrio

Check out you tube for step by step on home made lighted nocks they turn on when you shoot make sure you get at least two i used to much glue


----------



## Lukenbow

*Few things of mine that are homemade.*

This is my bowpress I built.

















This is a arrow rack I threw together.









This is my Arrow saw not beautiful but it gets the job done.









I love building stuff instead of buying it.


----------



## bow_hunter09

great stuff


----------



## bow_hunter09

gotta make the luminoks


----------



## STELZ

luminocks, arrows.. calls... its fun to build your own equip.!!


----------



## BSeals71

ind_buck_fever said:


> food plot secret
> 
> 
> instead of the crazy prices of commercial plot seed.
> 
> buy a small sack of biologic or what ever is prefered.
> 
> take the label into your local co-op and the same blend can be mixed there for a heck of alot less!!!!! theyll be able to mix a better blend for your soil/terrain also.
> 
> matt



That's a good idea. :thumbs_up


----------



## BSeals71

Jerry/NJ said:


> *Ingredients for Scent Killer:
> 
> 16 oz. (2 cups) Peroxide
> 
> 16 oz. (2 cups) Distilled Water
> 
> ¼ cup baking soda
> 
> 1 oz. On non-scented shampoo
> 
> (Or adjust amounts to whatever size you make accordingly)
> 
> Let sit for several days (1 gallon milk jug works good with lid loose) *



Thanks!


----------



## DthbyCB

*Scents*

I make a few homemade scents

Apple Scent:

1 Gallon Apple Cider
1 Cup Brown Sugar
1 Cup Salt

Mix it all together then put it into smaller spray bottles and make sure you keep it in the fridge. This works better than the 5 dollar 4oz bottles you buy at the store. 

Another Attractant:

1 oz Vanilla Extract
1 oz Anise
1 TBS Peanut Butter

Put in a small container and lay strips of fabric or any material that will absorb the mixture than hang them around your stand. This stuff has a very strong smell and also works well.


----------



## BSeals71

I've always wondered about just eating a bunch of garlic. 

One year I brought some oranges with me in the tree stand while hunting whitetails. Just pealing them let off a strong sent. Though it might work as a good cover sent or scar them off. Actually shot a doe that night... not sure if it made a difference.


----------



## wyetterp

*TTT for the off season! Great thread!*


----------



## Lerie

ttt


----------



## camoman73

*Ive made a few things. Im constantly making things!!!*

Turkey display i made bird had 2 full 11 in beards.
Turkey call i made,and am making new and improved ones now since i learned what not to do with this one. Btw this call sounds amazing.
My 870 stock refinish job etc...


----------



## woodsman1031

Misfire said:


> Several years ago a buddy of mine reintroduced me to traditional archery with a nice little takedown. He makes his own arrows, strings, knives, etc.. and appreciates homebrew stuff. I made him this hardcase this weekend as a "thank you" gift. I hope he likes it.
> 
> It started out as solid oak 1x4 planks that I ripped down to ¼” X 4”. A bit of cutting, gluing and routing yielded a nice little longbow hard case.
> 
> 
> That is an awsome case! Your friend will remember you every time he looks at that!
> 
> 
> Tommy


----------



## nitrus5

*POV video camera*

I have been looking around on this site, and i was wondering if anyone has experiemented with putting a small camera on your bow? I have seen the point of view cameras that thread into the stabilizer hole on the riser but i don't have the 350 bucks to buy one, and i haven't read any good reviews about them. So if anyone has found a good light weight farely cheap way of doing this any help would be appreciated!! thanks guys 

this thread ROCKS.


----------



## Unk Bond

Lukenbow said:


> This is my bowpress I built.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a arrow rack I threw together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my Arrow saw not beautiful but it gets the job done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love building stuff instead of buying it.


-----------------

Very nice.
Do you have a pic of a bow in your press. [ Later


----------



## rhino-aus

*Homemade top and bottem sts*

hi guys heres a sts setup i just finished.
























And now in camo


----------



## rupejosh

jakson said:


> This is very nice site that provides the solution of the women and babies related problem
> ------------
> jakson
> Baby Gear


what the....?


----------



## carbon_kid

*???*



jakson said:


> This is very nice site that provides the solution of the women and babies related problem
> ------------
> jakson
> Baby Gear


if this is a guy you better hand over that man card!


----------



## kyrow

Thanks for posting


----------



## kyrow

nice


----------



## rhino-aus

*Another t/b mount sts*

I made these one's out if some stronger bracket, much quieter and cut vibration down even more.


----------



## sportsman

Which Reflex bow is that?

Thanks!


----------



## rhino-aus

sportsman said:


> Which Reflex bow is that?
> 
> Thanks!


Its a Excursion.


----------



## sportsman

I thought it looked familiar.

Mine is one of the best shooters I have. Very forgiving and accurate.


----------



## jtubman

*bow vice and press...and what ever else*

i just spent the past two nights readin from front to back on these posts...love em!... it's to late now buti will post my bow vice pics later and will take step by step pics of my x-frame press...we have also made our own paper test frame which mainly looks like most of your target holders

gotta love breaking a few knuckles to save a penny...but when its all said and done..that hospitol bill was worth it!


----------



## jtubman

*x press*

ok so heres my press so far still need to put in the jack and one leg and a few fishing touches ....screwed up one of the legs in welding so need to make new one...but hey also dont mind the welds im learning how to weld has im making this thingalso is a picture of a bow vise that i made a week or so ago
i guess i have to have 5 or more posts to be able to post pictures...


----------



## jtubman

so.....


----------



## jtubman

im going to .....


----------



## jtubman

make a few posts....me and my buddys are also working on a few other projects that we will post soon as well...


----------



## jtubman

ok one more then i can put in pictures.....


----------



## jtubman

bow press










some more bow press











my bow vice










another of the bow press dont mind the clutter











when its all done ill post more


----------



## cbsurfer

Just finished this thread . Got quite a bit info.


----------



## BuckeyeDeer

*Bow DARTBOARD??*

has anyone made a dartboard out of the bag target material to place over a large bag target or any other method of making a dartboard? i just thought this would be pretty cool to shoot with the boys and play a 20 or 30 yard game of darts. lol also you can message me with ideas too. thanks a bunch


----------



## Ancient Archer

I've made a couple of these lighted nocks per the instructions of Revoarcher, elsewhere on AT (Classifieds). One was with a red translucent nock with a red Thill Nite Brite battery/light on a standard size shaft. The other was a green translucent nock with a green Thill Nite Brite battery/light on an Easton Axis shaft. I drilled a 3/32" hole in the std size nock and a 1/16" hole in the X-nock. When comparing the brightness, the green/green was brighter. These lights are great, and interchangeable from arrow to arrow - better than the type shown on YouTube!

I wonder if on huntaholic's method, a touch of super glue around the "collar" of the bulb (cylindrical portion behind the bulb) would help hold the basttery/light in place more securely???


----------



## arki

Boys Im dying to try one of those stands on page 16.


----------



## DarnYankee

Can you tell me the brand/model/type of saw from Harbor Freight and also the speed incase there is more than one type available. Thanks.


----------



## irishpride42

WOW! I read this whole thing throughout the day and now I have to make the following:

A lifetime target (from the other thread)
Feeders
A duck boat (one day)
And the one I really want to do is a gun case (anyone have the basic materials and layout so I could build from that?)

Thank you for this thread!


----------



## oldschoolcj5

GREAT THREAD ... KEEP THE IDEAS FLOWING

great talent and thinking being shared here!


----------



## HCH

This is something I came up with and I thought I would share. This rangefinder is the Bushnell Scout and is still in mint condition after 5 years of hard use. The .99 cent camo neoprene beer coozie is the reason. It protects the lens and the case. It extends past the lens and they cant be scratched. I use an insta grommet to attach it to the Crooked Horns Outfitter bino system. These grommets lock on tight, and can be found in camping sections in stores. The use of the binos and the rangefinder is easy and they are always ready and not in a pocket to fumble for or drop from 25' up. Works for me.


----------



## nathanm74

Good idea!


----------



## SEflaHUNTIN

Thank You all!! Great ideas and I learned a lot, Now my wheels are spinning and I'm off to Wally World.


----------



## Brock-ID

HCH,

That is a great idea! Is that tape to hold it firm in the Cozy? Do you have any more photos of it?


----------



## WhiteFalcon

*Boow Lite*


----------



## Gary K

HCH said:


> This is something I came up with and I thought I would share. This rangefinder is the Bushnell Scout and is still in mint condition after 5 years of hard use. The .99 cent camo neoprene beer coozie is the reason. It protects the lens and the case. It extends past the lens and they cant be scratched. I use an insta grommet to attach it to the Crooked Horns Outfitter bino system. These grommets lock on tight, and can be found in camping sections in stores. The use of the binos and the rangefinder is easy and they are always ready and not in a pocket to fumble for or drop from 25' up. Works for me.


Sweet, great idea! BTW, also like your video collection... we shop at the same place. Also entered the 3 minute story... good link!


----------



## kickercoach1285

Well I figured I would post a few pics of some home made stuff around my house.

First the lifetime target that I learned how to make on another DIY thread









Next my elevated platform that I shoot from off of my garage. Thing weighs about 150-200 lbs so theres no need in mounting it. And yes it was fun getting that thing up there.









Now my cheapo but effective yardage markers 10 yrds - 80 yrds (not that I even attempt to shoot from there)









And last but not least my peep turner I filed out of aluminum way back when the only turning peep you could get is the one with one end of the tubing was attached to the peep and the other end to a plastic piece that was stuck to the top limb. I think it was made by field line not sure. I didn't like the peep so I made this thing so I could use any peep.









Almost forgot this one... 
A table that I made. The picture is burnt in using a wood burner and is a picture of a deer killed in our county by an out of state hunter which had land in Ohio and had purchased a resident licence and tag which you must be living in the state for at least 6 months I believe to hunt as a resident. Now owned by the ONDR.


----------



## HCH

Brock-ID said:


> HCH,
> 
> That is a great idea! Is that tape to hold it firm in the Cozy? Do you have any more photos of it?


Yea, It just holds the coozy firmly on it so I don't have to worry about it sliding off. Make your cutout for the button and u are done. These coozies can be had for around a buck.


----------



## HCH

Gary K said:


> Sweet, great idea! BTW, also like your video collection... we shop at the same place. Also entered the 3 minute story... good link!


Thanks and Southern Sam on AT here turned me unto that link.


----------



## oldschoolcj5

All great stuff there Kickercoach! I really like the table.


----------



## TH30060X

huntaholic said:


> Here's the picture of the Nite Brite Lite and what the finished product should look like. I put another one next to the nock so you would be able to see how deep to drill the second hole in the nock. I'll try to get pictures of the nocks in my target tonight as well.


I lvoe the idea. i sure need to try that some day


----------



## Neuralgia

Guys, I'm looking fwd to make my own arrow saw board.

I'm going to buy one of this Bench Top Cut-Off Saw
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42307

The only question I have, is if the saw it comes with works with carbons?

Or do I have to get new saws (anyway, I'd like to get some replacements when I buy it).

Thanks.


----------



## doeeater

some of you have seen my stands or own one i make these and sell them off and on.


----------



## HCH

doeeater said:


> some of you have seen my stands or own one i make these and sell them off and on.


Nice bow holder


----------



## shaftgiver09

*Wow!*

I may need to make more spare time to think up this goofy stuff


----------



## tglide1

*Mineral Lick*

1-50lb bag of Dicalcium Phosphate = $25.00
1-50lb bag of #4 Rock Salt = $3.00
2-50lb bags of Ag Mineral Salt = $4 each or $8.00

This is the best mineral lick I have used and it is less than .20 cents a pound and costs approx. $40 for 200lbs.


----------



## kickercoach1285

*More DIY...*

Here is a set of sights and stabilizer that I made for a Martin Firecat target bow that is for sale now in the target bow section.
This is the thread for the bow.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1055098939#post1055098939


----------



## russiaboey

*Hello.*

Hi there, i'm Leonard from Singapore. i may travel up to US in Nov.2009 to visit an aunt at springfield illinos. Do you have any friends you know bowhunt there? i hope to join them for a trip out bowhunting for this memorable first time trip to US.
thanks.
Leonard
Singapore


----------



## lovemylabs

awesome stuff on this thread, wish I had a computer in the crapper... :set1_thinking:


----------



## mobhuntr

*home made steps*

i dont think i would do that, its a great idea, but if it would tear loose while your climbing up. here is an idea get some square tubing have it welded the shape of an L cut a slot on each side at the top, and slide a ratchet strap thre it and ratchet it around a tree. good luck


----------



## bill_collector

*ground blind material*

Thought I would suggest an Idea I have used for several years. I buy these leaves from a local dollar store for one dollar per pack of 50. They look just like oak leaves as they are turning. Then I take some really small safety pins and paint them black or a dull color and pin those leaves all over my outer layer camo. Saves 75 dollars on a leafy suit. One thing I have noticed is they are a little stiff but if you wash them once it will limber them up nicely and they will move in any breeze. 

You can use the same idea for a home made ground blind by taking a piece of burlap and pinning the leaves to it.


----------



## ZALLEN

Byron said:


> I went to Wal-Mart and Bass Pro today - came up with a total of ONE Nite Brite! I'll play around with it this weekend. I did a Google search and found a thread on the Bowsite that added a twist - installing the neck section of another nock inside the shaft to allow the Nite Brite to be turned on automatically upon release. I'll be playing around with it this weekend.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Byron


could you please pm me on how this works id love to try it


----------



## Byron

I know it's a huge thread, but I posted quite a few details of how I used to make these lighted nocks here. I haven't done so in a couple years now. Last year, I bought Tracer nocks and will continue using them this year.

Best Regards,
Byron


----------



## WabbitSwayer

Unk Bond said:


> ----------------
> Hello All
> Richard here is another pic .Credit given to [ walks with a gi] this guy has made some fine things.He is as handy as a pocket on a shirt
> 
> Unk :smile:
> 
> Pic. below credit to ]walks with a gi]


Any help finding the thread with this press? I have done multiple searches with and without using WWAG as the author. I like the looks of this press.


----------



## oldschoolcj5

srwven said:


> Any help finding the thread with this press? I have done multiple searches with and without using WWAG as the author. I like the looks of this press.


This one?
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=482877


----------



## WabbitSwayer

oldschoolcj5 said:


> This one?


Different press, a few more posts and I will be able to give a link and actual picture

Page 8 of this thread, second post shows the picture.


----------



## catamountarcher

This is a cool saw. I saw that at harbor freight and the first thing that cam to mind was use it to build an arrow saw. How will does it work on carbons?


----------



## letsgobowhuntin

There has to be more homemade shuff out there.


----------



## araz2114

You are kidding right? 37 pages is one huge thread... check out the DIY Equipment forum.


----------



## mrg68

got a question does the Dremel slide to cut the shaft? like in a radial I see it is mounted to the board or a jig so to speak.


----------



## LiteSpeed1

mrg68 said:


> got a question does the Dremel slide to cut the shaft? like in a radial I see it is mounted to the board or a jig so to speak.


When I use a Dremel, I roll the arrow shaft into the cut-off wheel.


----------



## condude4

Hey any of you guys have the thread for a PVC target stand? I made one out of PVC, but it pulled it self over, might have to make a brace for it.


----------



## Daddyo43

made my own cultipacker for when i plant my food plots.. gimme a shout if anyone wants to see pics and details,,

angelo


----------



## missionmanX3

Go to you tube there is a video on how to make the lighted nock. Very good info.


----------



## Nicky9

HCH said:


> Yea, It just holds the coozy firmly on it so I don't have to worry about it sliding off. Make your cutout for the button and u are done. These coozies can be had for around a buck.


Wow awesome mod. I am def gonna use this one. Thanks for posting this one!


----------



## king0581

WOW! I clicked on this thread for the recipe for the scent killer and 5 hours later I finished reading it. Good stuff here.


----------



## ldixon

great thread, ive got some work to do.


----------



## sengdigger

man this is a great thread, a lot of great ideas


----------



## Made-In-TX

I know I'm not the first to say this and I won't be the last but I LOVE THIS THREAD!!! I just finished my Hitch Hanger and hope to get some pics up by this weekend and next I plan on making a hang on stand or 2.


----------



## Noobist

*Saxton Pope's Deerskin quiver*

Am in the middle of reading Saxton Pope's book Hunting with Bow and Arrow, and came across the bit where he gives instruction for making a homemade quiver (and also a bow case, bracer and finger tabs).

"Besides a bow and arrow, the archer needs to have a quiver, a bow case, a waterproof quiver case, an arm guard or bracer, and a shooting glove or leather finger tips. Our quivers are made of untanned deer hide, usually from deer shot with the bow. The hide, having been properly cleaned, stretched, and dried, is cut down the center, each half making a quiver. Marking a quadrilateral outline twenty-four inches on two sides, twelve at the larger end, and nine at the smaller, in such a way that the hair points from the larger to the smaller end; cut this piece and soak it in water until soft, and wash it clean with soap. At the same time cut a circular piece off the tough neck skin, three inches in diameter. 

With a furrier's needle having three sharp edges, and heavy waxed thread, or better yet, with catgut, sew up the longer sides of the skin with a simple overcast stitch. Let the hair side be in while sewing. In the smaller end sew the circular bottom. Invert the quiver on a stick; turn back a cuff of hide one inch deep at the top. To do this nicely, the hair should be clipped away at this point. This cuff stiffens the mouth of the quiver and keeps it always open. 

Now put your quiver over a wooden form to dry.
I have one like a shoemaker's last, made of two pieces of wood separated by a thin slat which can be removed, permitting easy withdrawal of the quiver after drying. When dry, your quiver will be about twenty-two inches deep, four inches across the top, and slightly conical. Cut a strip of deer hide eight inches long by one and a half wide, shave it, double the hair side in, and attach it to the seamy side of the quiver by perforating the leather and inserting a lacing of buckskin thongs. Leave the loop of this strap projecting two inches above the top of the quiver. In the bottom of your quiver drop a round piece of felt or carpet to prevent the arrow points coming through the hide. 

If you are not so fortunate as to have deer hide, you may use any stiff leather, or even canvas. This latter can be made stiff by painting or varnishing it. 

Such a receptacle will hold a dozen broad-heads very comfortably and several more under pressure. It should swing from a belt at the right hip in such a way that in walking it does not touch the leg, while in shooting it is accessible to the right hand or may then be shifted slightly to the front for convenience. 

In running we usually grasp the quiver in the right hand, not only to prevent it interfering with locomotion, but to keep the arrows from rattling and falling out. When on the trail of an animal we habitually stuff a twig of leaves, a bunch of ferns or a bit of grass in the mouth of the quiver to damp the soft rustling of the arrows. Sometimes, in going through brush or when running, we carry the quiver on a belt slung over the left shoulder. Here they are out of the way and give the legs full action. 

To keep the arrows dry, and to cover them while traveling, we make a sheath for the quiver of waterproof muslin. This is long enough to cover the arrows and has a wire ring a bit larger than the top of the quiver sewn in the cloth some three inches from the upper end. This keeps the feathers from being crushed. The mouth of this cover is closed with a drawstring. On the side adjacent to the strap of the quiver, an aperture is cut to permit this being brought through and fastened to the belt."
--From Saxton Pope's book

I was thinking I might make one out of strong leather instead, perhaps I;ll attempt to harvest soem from an old horse saddle or similar. Also, I have a mind to have it sown in compartments sort of, so that the arrows are separated to prevent rattling etc.
Any input would be great. My basic intent here is to make as lowcost of a quiver as possible.


----------



## Noobist

am gonna have a crack at a bracer too, will post pics when i get around to doing it all lol


----------



## Noobist

*Bracer updates*

sweet just talked to local tannery, should be able to score some scrap leather off them for a bracer by tuesday. also have tthe tongue of a sneaker, which seems to be around the right size for padding, so if the leather is thin i'll use it in the leather one, or if the leather is thick enough to use on its own, i'll cover the tongue with camo material and have a camo one as well.


----------



## FishinMarine09

*ttt*

tttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt sticky


----------



## Huaco

FishinMarine09 said:


> tttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt sticky


This has been a sticky so many times, I lost count. They solved the problem by creating a whole new subforum called DIY.-- Thanks mods! I LOVE the DIY stuff!


----------



## jb12string

Taking inspiration from this thread, I took an ounce of vanilla (imitation, hopefully that works) dilluted it with 4 oz of water and sprayed the inside of my clothes storage tub down and misted the clothes. Hopefully it works, we'll find out tomorrow.


----------



## cgarcia67

Dont know if anyone has tdone this but, I took my window mount for my spotting scope and screwed it to my work bench for a bow vise. Works like a charm!


----------



## Krazhunter

Yeah, I agree. I came to the site to look at home made Luminoks and five hours later....


----------



## Krazhunter

Do you have the specs for building the string suppressors? I would rather build one than buy one!


----------



## irtmks

*CAD for free*

Hey guys, I am a retired Engineer. 

I used to play with CAD, but if you don't use it, you lose it! 

If you guys have stuff you want to put on CAD let me know, I may be able to help. (for free of course). 

Just PM me and or send phot, or sketch, or both with dimensions. 

I can't dedicate 24/7 to this, but would be glad to help all I can.


----------



## Unk Bond

Krazhunter said:


> Do you have the specs for building the string suppressors? I would rather build one than buy one!



Hello
1 piece of 3/4" X 1 1/2" long Alumin round stock.


Drill with a small bit length wise. To locate your center.
Then drill and tap one end for 5/16 X 24 threads 
Drill the other end to except a 3/8" Alumin solid round rod.

Drill and thread a 8/32 thread hole on the rod end. To lock the rod in place.

Bend the rod 2 angles you need.Bend a little at a time ,and lay on a sketch. I used my trailer hitch hole. To bend the rod angle.
Buy a Rubber limb saver , with a solid black end with a hole in it to put on your rod. [ Later


----------



## Krazhunter

Thanks Unk. I will give it a try. Finishing my lighted nocs tonight then will work on this. Awesome!


----------



## Ground Check It

you can also cut the end of another nock off, part that goes into the shaft. You need to use an apoxy or a stronger clue. this will allow the nock to turn on when your arrow is released. i use a clear nock. i have made 2 of mine own. if you want pics let me know.


----------



## jacksonrh64

Here is a you tube video on lighted nock. Just put lighted nock into you tube search, there is more than one version. This is a good one:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMqLT-4ezzk

Jack


----------



## Krazhunter

Unk Bond said:


> Hello
> 1 piece of 3/4" X 1 1/2" long Alumin round stock.
> 
> 
> Drill with a small bit length wise. To locate your center.
> Then drill and tap one end for 5/16 X 24 threads
> Drill the other end to except a 3/8" Alumin solid round rod.
> 
> Drill and thread a 8/32 thread hole on the rod end. To lock the rod in place.
> 
> Bend the rod 2 angles you need.Bend a little at a time ,and lay on a sketch. I used my trailer hitch hole. To bend the rod angle.
> Buy a Rubber limb saver , with a solid black end with a hole in it to put on your rod. [ Later


I am having difficulty understanding the directions...a little slow I guess. Can you explain them again to me, please? I don't get the beginnig of the instructions. IF you have nay photos, that could help. Thanks again..Love the thread!


----------



## Unk Bond

Krazhunter said:


> I am having difficulty understanding the directions...a little slow I guess. Can you explain them again to me, please? I don't get the beginnig of the instructions. IF you have nay photos, that could help. Thanks again..Love the thread!






Hello
Hang in there. Just got in. And i am wore to a frazzle. :wink: But i will try to night, or tomorrow to post pictures. If i forget. Pm me, a reminder note. :wink: [ Later


----------



## Krazhunter

No Hurry!! Thanks for all of your help!:darkbeer:


----------



## Unk Bond

Unk Bond said:


> Hello
> Hang in there. Just got in. And i am wore to a frazzle. :wink: But i will try to night, or tomorrow to post pictures. If i forget. Pm me, a reminder note. :wink: [ Later


Here you go.


----------



## Rickochet55

Thanks for sharing your ideas! Now I have even more projects to work on! My wife is gonna love it!


----------



## Gary K

Krazhunter said:


> Do you have the specs for building the string suppressors? I would rather build one than buy one!


The aluminum rod one shown here looks great! 

You can also do a search in this forum for terms like STS or string suppressors to some others have done. I made my own too: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=893356 

Good luck!


----------



## Krazhunter

Thanks Unk!

Your explanation was great, now I see the parts. I hope to have one made this weekend! Thanks again for your help!


----------



## ToxArch1

*Fantastic thread*

I have just finished reading all 1500 posts. Took me two days (with interuptions). This is great. So many ideas. I hope I can contribute some in the near future.

Keep it happening !!:thumbs_up:thumbs_up:thumbs_up


----------



## Unk Bond

Krazhunter said:


> Thanks Unk!
> 
> Your explanation was great, now I see the parts. I hope to have one made this weekend! Thanks again for your help!


-----------------
Here to help.

You know that little barrel adapter. Has really come in handy.
You can leave one end with a plain hole .Or thread both ends with same size thread or different threads for different ends.

Now on my 08 Hoyt Ultra Elite. The back riser hole came out the back bottom of the bow grip on a angle.. Did this a adapter ever come in handy.


Might add a little light groove on that round barrel .Lets one put a wrench on it ,to tighten it up.

[ Later


----------



## Krazhunter

Unk Bond said:


> -----------------
> Here to help.
> 
> You know that little barrel adapter. Has really come in handy.
> You can leave one end with a plain hole .Or thread both ends with same size thread or different threads for different ends.
> 
> Now on my 08 Hoyt Ultra Elite. The back riser hole came out the back bottom of the bow grip on a angle.. Did this a adapter ever come in handy.
> 
> 
> Might add a little light groove on that round barrel .Lets one put a wrench on it ,to tighten it up.
> 
> [ Later


Unk,

I couldn't find the 3/4 inch barrel, so I used a 5/16 x 18 coupler nut. I tapped the rod at 5/16 x 18 and a threaded rod of 5/16 x18 to 5/16 x 24 on one end. Then attached the coupler to both the rod and the threaded rod and screwed into my bow. I bent the rod, but that made the alignment off, so I made another straight one. Covereved the rod with a black fuel hose and added the stopper. All for under $15. Thanks for all of your input, I am glad I was able to make one opposed to buy one. 

I'll post pics later.

Thanks again!:teeth:


----------



## Unk Bond

Krazhunter said:


> Unk,
> 
> I couldn't find the 3/4 inch barrel, so I used a 5/16 x 18 coupler nut. I tapped the rod at 5/16 x 18 and a threaded rod of 5/16 x18 to 5/16 x 24 on one end. Then attached the coupler to both the rod and the threaded rod and screwed into my bow. I bent the rod, but that made the alignment off, so I made another straight one. Covereved the rod with a black fuel hose and added the stopper. All for under $15. Thanks for all of your input, I am glad I was able to make one opposed to buy one.
> 
> I'll post pics later.
> 
> Thanks again!:teeth:


----------------------

Sounds good :thumbs_up Await a pic.


----------



## Krazhunter

Here is the suppressor I made.


----------



## Krazhunter

My Pic won't upload, it may be too big. I will take anothre pic tomorrow with less megapixels and see if that works.


----------



## Unk Bond

Krazhunter said:


> My Pic won't upload, it may be too big. I will take anothre pic tomorrow with less megapixels and see if that works.


Sounds good


----------



## russ

Made-In-TX said:


> I know I'm not the first to say this and I won't be the last but I LOVE THIS THREAD!!! I just finished my Hitch Hanger and hope to get some pics up by this weekend and next I plan on making a hang on stand or 2.


when a thread gets this big it's kind of a loss. I know I don't look very hard. I peek once in a blue moon but there's no way I'm gonna go through 1500 posts.


----------



## jb12string

russ said:


> when a thread gets this big it's kind of a loss. I know I don't look very hard. I peek once in a blue moon but there's no way I'm gonna go through 1500 posts.


Just go to thread tools at the top of the thread and click the button about subscribing, but first, go to the User CP and set your notification to daily or instant. That way, whenever the thread is updated, you find out about it in short order and you don't get way behind


----------



## russ

jb12string said:


> Just go to thread tools at the top of the thread and click the button about subscribing, but first, go to the User CP and set your notification to daily or instant. That way, whenever the thread is updated, you find out about it in short order and you don't get way behind


And why on earth would I do that, when I can subscribe to the whole DIY forum and have everything sorted for me? Especially given how the mod's have hobbled the search function. 

My point remains, overgrown threads defeat their own purpose.


----------



## ToxArch1

*Home made lighted nocks*

I just ordered 20 of the Thill replacement batteries (the ones used to make the lighted nocks - posted many times on various threads of AT) from www.hawglite.com 

After getting a shipping cost to Australia and telling Kelly that I was going to order 20 of them, SHE DROPPED THE PRICE !!!!!!

Now that's what I call incredible customer service.

Landed at my door in Australia for $2.64 each !!!

Kelly...you're amazing. :77::aniangel::thumbs_up


----------



## mdasilva

This looks good but, will it work as good as it looks?
How are you going to press it?


----------



## FireMedic26

*Glendel stand*

This is an adjustable target stand that I built. I got tired of messing with driving stakes. I made it adjustable for any other targets I may buy later.


----------



## Jakey741

This is a great Idea thanks!!!!


----------



## scotty624

*sticky??? lol*

dang, love the thread folks, i've made a few things and still building on some to improve anyway i can, i've made a few paracord bracelets, a bow vise, arrow tube (poorly but it works lol) i'll get some pics later and post them,

Scotty


----------



## Ogredude43

*Please post a link to the post on bowsite*



Byron said:


> I went to Wal-Mart and Bass Pro today - came up with a total of ONE Nite Brite! I'll play around with it this weekend. I did a Google search and found a thread on the Bowsite that added a twist - installing the neck section of another nock inside the shaft to allow the Nite Brite to be turned on automatically upon release. I'll be playing around with it this weekend.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Byron


Thanks


----------



## emerson

bump:thumbs_up:thumbs_up


----------



## ToxArch1

*Hawglite*

Well, just to follow up on this. Kelly sent the 20 batteries/lights I ordered. But get this...she sent them the day BEFORE I paid for them.

Then, when I received them, I sent her a thank you email and casually mentioned that 5 of them didn't work.

I have just received the 5 replacements...without me even asking for them.

Kelly, do you have a PhD in customer service ??????

Thank you so much.




ToxArch1 said:


> I just ordered 20 of the Thill replacement batteries (the ones used to make the lighted nocks - posted many times on various threads of AT) from www.hawglite.com
> 
> After getting a shipping cost to Australia and telling Kelly that I was going to order 20 of them, SHE DROPPED THE PRICE !!!!!!
> 
> Now that's what I call incredible customer service.
> 
> Landed at my door in Australia for $2.64 each !!!
> 
> Kelly...you're amazing. :77::aniangel::thumbs_up


----------



## ToxArch1

*Making Lighted nocks*

I have found, after reviewing all the other methods here, that the easiest way to make lighted nocks is a slight adaption of the method that another member here ( ttown ) uses.

The bow string turns the light on when firing the arrow. You use a jewellers screwdriver in a little side hole to turn it off. So you don't have to worry about things like - pulling the nocks out; loose nocks; lining up the fletchings; damaging the light when turning the nock; etc. 

And you don't need to modify the light in any way. And you only use one nock per light.

I have used this method so far to make a dozen lighted nocks without a single failure. It is super quick, and they work every time.

I use this method with Easton Uni Bushings with Easton Super nocks but this will also work on Bohning Signature nocks and others (although the Bohning Blazer Double Lock nock is a little borderline too small in diameter).

First you drill a 1/8" hole all the way up through the nock as a pilot drill (this helps prepare the way for the bigger drill). You can hold the nock in an Easton Super Nock tool to stop it spinning while drilling. Be gentle, don't drill too aggressively.

Then you drill 11/64" all the way up through the nock, only just into the string nocking area (you just need to break through to get a full diameter).

Then you drill 1/16" at right angles, all the way through, in the body of the nock, near the string area so that - on the Easton Super nock - the hole just about touches the top of the "S" symbol.

Then deburr all the holes.

Use epoxy glue on the light around the arrow end (insert dry first so you will know where to put the glue). Insert the light into the nock so that the metal part of the light is only just showing in the side hole and the LED is visible in the string part of the nock. The string needs to be able to push this down).

Once the epoxy is dry (5 minutes), the job is done.

Now I know the above may sound a little complex, but once you have done one you will see how easy it actually is.

I have attached a jewellers screwdriver to my release so I always have it "on hand" (pun intended).:teeth:


----------



## dbierman

ToxArch1 said:


> I have found, after reviewing all the other methods here, that the easiest way to make lighted nocks is a slight adaption of the method that another member here ( ttown ) uses.
> 
> The bow string turns the light on when firing the arrow. You use a jewellers screwdriver in a little side hole to turn it off. So you don't have to worry about things like - pulling the nocks out; loose nocks; lining up the fletchings; damaging the light when turning the nock; etc.
> 
> And you don't need to modify the light in any way. And you only use one nock per light.
> 
> I have used this method so far to make a dozen lighted nocks without a single failure. It is super quick, and they work every time.
> 
> I use this method with Easton Uni Bushings with Easton Super nocks but this will also work on Bohning Signature nocks and others (although the Bohning Blazer Double Lock nock is a little borderline too small in diameter).
> 
> First you drill a 1/8" hole all the way up through the nock as a pilot drill (this helps prepare the way for the bigger drill). You can hold the nock in an Easton Super Nock tool to stop it spinning while drilling. Be gentle, don't drill too aggressively.
> 
> Then you drill 11/64" all the way up through the nock, only just into the string nocking area (you just need to break through to get a full diameter).
> 
> Then you drill 1/16" at right angles, all the way through, in the body of the nock, near the string area so that - on the Easton Super nock - the hole just about touches the top of the "S" symbol.
> 
> Then deburr all the holes.
> 
> Use epoxy glue on the light around the arrow end (insert dry first so you will know where to put the glue). Insert the light into the nock so that the metal part of the light is only just showing in the side hole and the LED is visible in the string part of the nock. The string needs to be able to push this down).
> 
> Once the epoxy is dry (5 minutes), the job is done.
> 
> Now I know the above may sound a little complex, but once you have done one you will see how easy it actually is.
> 
> I have attached a jewellers screwdriver to my release so I always have it "on hand" (pun intended).:teeth:


 Where's the pictures?


----------



## Screenshot

just joined the site some great ideas here


----------



## Screenshot

hopefully i will be ablle to contribute in the future


----------



## buckhunter16255

*lighted nocks*

there is a video on youtube on how to do it. it is a good video it shows you step by step


----------



## oneshotthompson

can some1 put some easy directions on how to make stabalizers out of arrows please. i am very intersted in the idea. thanks


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello
There is a kit you can buy also.


----------



## dbierman

buckhunter16255 said:


> there is a video on youtube on how to do it. it is a good video it shows you step by step


I was talking about 
ToxArch1's idea.


----------



## bilongo

*Kit*



oneshotthompson said:


> can some1 put some easy directions on how to make stabalizers out of arrows please. i am very intersted in the idea. thanks


Hi-tek do it yourself kit Tk-1 or TK-2 :darkbeer:


----------



## ToxArch1

*Pictures of making lighted nock*



ToxArch1 said:


> I have found, after reviewing all the other methods here, that the easiest way to make lighted nocks is a slight adaption of the method that another member here ( ttown ) uses.
> 
> The bow string turns the light on when firing the arrow. You use a jewellers screwdriver in a little side hole to turn it off. So you don't have to worry about things like - pulling the nocks out; loose nocks; lining up the fletchings; damaging the light when turning the nock; etc.
> 
> And you don't need to modify the light in any way. And you only use one nock per light.
> 
> I have used this method so far to make a dozen lighted nocks without a single failure. It is super quick, and they work every time.
> 
> I use this method with Easton Uni Bushings with Easton Super nocks but this will also work on Bohning Signature nocks and others (although the Bohning Blazer Double Lock nock is a little borderline too small in diameter).
> 
> First you drill a 1/8" hole all the way up through the nock as a pilot drill (this helps prepare the way for the bigger drill). You can hold the nock in an Easton Super Nock tool to stop it spinning while drilling. Be gentle, don't drill too aggressively.
> 
> Then you drill 11/64" all the way up through the nock, only just into the string nocking area (you just need to break through to get a full diameter).
> 
> Then you drill 1/16" at right angles, all the way through, in the body of the nock, near the string area so that - on the Easton Super nock - the hole just about touches the top of the "S" symbol.
> 
> Then deburr all the holes.
> 
> Use epoxy glue on the light around the arrow end (insert dry first so you will know where to put the glue). Insert the light into the nock so that the metal part of the light is only just showing in the side hole and the LED is visible in the string part of the nock. The string needs to be able to push this down).
> 
> Once the epoxy is dry (5 minutes), the job is done.
> 
> Now I know the above may sound a little complex, but once you have done one you will see how easy it actually is.
> 
> I have attached a jewellers screwdriver to my release so I always have it "on hand" (pun intended).:teeth:



Here are some photos of the process.


----------



## ToxArch1

*and more pictures*
































This shows the dry run to show where to put the glue


----------



## ToxArch1

*last pictures*

Now the glue goes on







Now the light is positioned in the nock







After the glue has dried (I would give it a few hours) 
you can turn it on by pushing the LED down with the
screwdriver (only to test) and turn it off by inserting 
the screwdriver into the side hole and pushing the LED back up


----------



## dbierman

So the string pushes the led down to turn it on? Then you use the pick to turn it off?


----------



## dbierman

Thanks Tox


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello very nice.

Do have just one question. 

1/16 drill bit just touches the top of the S

? How did you establish the distance down.For the top of the S.


----------



## ToxArch1

Yes, the string pushes the LED down when firing, you turn it off with the screwdriver.

The "S" is embossed on the Easton Supernock. So when I was setting the light up in the nock, the neck of the light happened to line up with the "S".

With other nocks it would be a case of measuring the correct position.


----------



## mustangguy

Thought I'd post a couple pics of a stand I made last week. Put it in a tree today and have some things that I need to change, but it'll work for this season.


----------



## Unk Bond

ToxArch1 said:


> Yes, the string pushes the LED down when firing, you turn it off with the screwdriver.
> 
> The "S" is embossed on the Easton Supernock. So when I was setting the light up in the nock, the neck of the light happened to line up with the "S".
> 
> With other nocks it would be a case of measuring the correct position.



Hello
Thanks for explaining my question. Quiet under stand now the whole concept.


----------



## jacobwyn

Good lookin stuff guys


----------



## gman57

Excellent pictorial for the lighted nock proceedure really first rate.:thumbs_up


----------



## wasp611

Misfire said:


> I've made a few wingbone yelpers..
> 
> .


Cool man! Like that


----------



## ToxArch1

*Bow Stand / Holder for target practice*

Here is my version of a PVC bow and arrow stand / holder for target practice.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1056214176&postcount=273

If you would like to see the other cool versions in this thread, once you get there click on the thread at the top right hand side.


----------



## ToxArch1

*Bow press - low cost and versatile*

Here's my version of a low cost bow press which I can also use to change limbs. The stand folds up and the whole thing fits in my car boot / trunk.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1056214137&postcount=315

If you want to see the other cool versions in this thread, once you get there click on the thread link at the top right hand side.


----------



## ToxArch1

*Target Stand*

Here's my target stand.


----------



## ToxArch1

*Draw Board*

I bought the spring balance but I had everything else lying around, including the old boat winch and silver spray paint.
I tried a pulley system but the winch is so much easier to use.


----------



## ToxArch1

*Arrow Saw and Bow Vise*

I mounted the vise I bought on a metal fold up saw horse I bought from ALDI.
I had room for an arrow saw so I made one and mounted it on the same stand. The dremel drill/saw attaches to the flexible shaft so I can take it off and use it for other things.
The whole thing folds up and stows away easily or hangs on the wall.


----------



## ToxArch1

*Arrow Saw and Bow Vise*

Last pics


----------



## ToxArch1

gman57 said:


> Excellent pictorial for the lighted nock proceedure really first rate.:thumbs_up


Thanks :smile:


----------



## ToxArch1

2 da top


----------



## ToxArch1

ttt


----------



## ToxArch1

*ttt*

ttt


----------



## Silent Death 54

breakaleg said:


> This has nothing to do with the lighted nocks but someone posted about making your own wind checker a while ago. Well I triedit and it works very well. Take a little plastic nasal spray bottle and simply fill it with white corn starch. Works like a charm.


I did that about 25 years ago when I had Afrin bottles laying around. LOL Except I used chalk powder from a snap line. 

Now, instead of carrying the bottle, I just glue a 6 inch piece of unwaxed dental floss to the inside of the top limb of my bow. Make it a little fussy so it gets VERY sensative. I don't have to move anything but my eyes to see which way the wind is moving, It moves at the slightest breeze. Been doing that for about 15 years now. 

Stay Safe,
Franz


----------



## BowHunterFett

Unk Bond said:


> Hey guys finished with cover.Credit to [ walks-with gi
> 
> Unk :angel:


What did you use to wrap this? This is a great Idea. I was going to build something like this, but use 1/4" plywood and bend it, not sure if it would bend enough though.


----------



## Unk Bond

BowHunterFett said:


> What did you use to wrap this? This is a great Idea. I was going to build something like this, but use 1/4" plywood and bend it, not sure if it would bend enough though.


Hello

Refresh my memory. What post number.  [ Later


----------



## BowHunterFett

Unk Bond said:


> Hello
> 
> Refresh my memory. What post number.  [ Later


#276 The hay bale blind, I was wondering what you covered it with and any other build info would be great too!! thanks.


----------



## JDS-1

ToxArch1 said:


> I bought the spring balance but I had everything else lying around, including the old boat winch and silver spray paint.
> I tried a pulley system but the winch is so much easier to use.
> 
> View attachment 674159
> 
> 
> View attachment 674160
> 
> 
> View attachment 674161


What is this thing? What does it do?


----------



## ToxArch1

JDS-1 said:


> What is this thing? What does it do?


You probably missed the title of the post. It's a Draw Board. You put the bow (bow riser) on the red soft plastic support thing (there's a plastic covered 1/2" allthread in the middle). You then attach the spring balance to the d-loop. By winding the winch handle you can draw the bow, measuring the draw length and draw weight.


----------



## ToxArch1

Hey Unk, if you want to see which post they are referring to in the Quote, you can click on the little blue and white arrow next to the "Originally posted by -----".


----------



## Unk Bond

BowHunterFett said:


> #276 The hay bale blind, I was wondering what you covered it with and any other build info would be great too!! thanks.


Thanks for the refresh :wink:

That wasn't one of my ideas. Walks With GI. designed it.


I thought about building one. Never got a round to making one.

I was going to lay some sheets of plywood on a flat surface. And make a jig with small blocks of wood. Bend place a block. Bend and place a block and so on to get the radius and shape. Also one might use sand in the conduit when bending a radius.

Covering. Sorry really didn't come up with a covering. :embara:

Now you could Pm him . He would be glad to share with you. Or if i can find out. Will let you know. [ Later


----------



## russ

Plans for a bale blind...

http://bowzone.ca/index.php?page=the-real-crop-hay-bale-blind


----------



## Unk Bond

russ said:


> Plans for a bale blind...
> 
> http://bowzone.ca/index.php?page=the-real-crop-hay-bale-blind


--------------------

Hello Russ 
Thats one fine blind. Job well done. :thumbs_up
I think you gave me the urge to build one. :wink:


----------



## Unk Bond

ToxArch1 said:


> Hey Unk, if you want to see which post they are referring to in the Quote, you can click on the little blue and white arrow next to the "Originally posted by -----".


Thanks for the heads up. Do that every make it easy. :wink: Really appreciate.


----------



## russ

Unk Bond said:


> --------------------
> 
> Hello Russ
> Thats one fine blind. Job well done. :thumbs_up
> I think you gave me the urge to build one. :wink:


Unk, 

I didn't make those instructions, a friend Greg Potyok did. An old homebrew game camera friend of mine, he did the plans up a long time ago, maybe even before planes flew into buildings.


----------



## BowHunterFett

Unk Bond said:


> --------------------
> 
> Hello Russ
> Thats one fine blind. Job well done. :thumbs_up
> I think you gave me the urge to build one. :wink:


Well, that link is a good idea too, but it isn't the same thing as the picture you posted of the blind Unkbond, the one in the link is made with actual hay, and the one you posted looks to be covered in plastic?? I was just wondering what kind of material it was, but I like the idea of covering it with chicken wire then a layer of hay, then more wire, it is a pretty nice lookin blind for sure that way!


----------



## Unk Bond

BowHunterFett said:


> Well, that link is a good idea too, but it isn't the same thing as the picture you posted of the blind Unkbond, the one in the link is made with actual hay, and the one you posted looks to be covered in plastic?? I was just wondering what kind of material it was, but I like the idea of covering it with chicken wire then a layer of hay, then more wire, it is a pretty nice looking blind for sure that way!




----------------------
I will try to find out what he used. 

Now i was thinking of using a black square plastic mesh. Instead of chicken wire. Just might be a little lighter. And its very strong.
Got a part roll. About 8 or 10 feet long in width. Believe the land scape's use this type of material. Then i was going to lay a rain proof covering.

Also had a idea of using PVC pipe. I think if braced right. It would hold its shape. Sure be nice material ,when one went to build the window cut outs. [ Later


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello i con-tacked him. On the material ,he used on his Round Bale Blind.
He used some scrap rubber material .He had acquired from his job.

Here is part of his reply. Hope this helps

***************************
If I was to do it over again, I'd go to Walmart and look in the fabric section. They have a lot of good fabrics there and some are pretty heavy. I used Velcro to fasten the "flaps" that secure the cover to the 1/2" conduit framework. It took some time but it worked good out west!


----------



## orblacktail

So many good ideas when money is tight! Thanks


----------



## Gene1

ToxArch1,

I just got a new pack of Easton Super 3D nocks, flo orange. It seem like they became wise of what we are trying to do. They mold the nocks with a little less plastic right when you drill thru the nock, it weakens the nock tabs that hold on to the string. So the arrow will not grip the string and can cause you to dry fire. Yes you can use the solid color ones but it won't be so bright.


----------



## ToxArch1

I don't know if you tried the solid color ones, but they're plenty bright enough.


----------



## russ

Gene1 said:


> ToxArch1,
> 
> I just got a new pack of Easton Super 3D nocks, flo orange. It seem like they became wise of what we are trying to do. They mold the nocks with a little less plastic right when you drill thru the nock, it weakens the nock tabs that hold on to the string. So the arrow will not grip the string and can cause you to dry fire. Yes you can use the solid color ones but it won't be so bright.


did those come IN an Easton package? The one you drilled in the photo doesn't seem to be Easton branded and there's a lot of similar nocks out there. That one looks similar to the Beiter style nock.


----------



## Gene1

I guess I have to use the solid ones. It's just that the flo ones will shine nicer. This will be the 3rd pack of nocks. 1st pack was the micro flo orange ones great for the old way of turning off the lights. Found the flo orange super 3d nock and they removed some of the plastic to weaken the nock if you drill it .


----------



## russ

Thinking back, I'm pretty sure there's 2 models of super nocks. The normal ones and the 3D version.


----------



## Gene1

Yes there are 2 verison of these nocks. The 3D ones have the flo orange which is transparent and the lite will glow thru out the whole nock and not just at the drilled hole.


----------



## ToxArch1

By the way, the red Easton Super Nock shown in my posts is transparent and is my preferred choice for these lighted nocks. The Bohning Signature Nock was solid color, and still works well.


----------



## ToxArch1

*Is this a dead thread?*

ttt - what's happening guys? is this one dead? :darkbeer::darkbeer:


----------



## KillerD

*Wow!*

Wow this is easily the best thread i've ever seen! I've seriously looked on every page and I can't wait to try and make some of the cool things i've seen in this thread. Thanks to all who posted they're invention's it's greatly appretiated!


----------



## emerson

KillerD said:


> Wow this is easily the best thread i've ever seen! I've seriously looked on every page and I can't wait to try and make some of the cool things i've seen in this thread. Thanks to all who posted they're invention's it's greatly appretiated!


I agreed . WOW


----------



## gucho

*love the thread, !!!*

Im thinking aobut incorporating a tre stand and game cart all in one build, seems the cart could double up as my carry all for the stand as well


----------



## dxtsealey

btt


----------



## jwengerd

Here are some pics of my new 20" stabilizer I have been watching everyone else make them on here and figured Id give it a shot. I made mine out of copper aswell. For the mounting bolt it is pressed in with rubber as a bushing to help dampen the vibrations also mounted a vibration stop X thing on the end. Works great makes tight groups.

-Justin


----------



## aberg

The last time I visited this there were just a couple hundred views. Now...WOW! It is a hit! Good work everybody! Lots of great ideas. Truly Archers helping Archers!


----------



## The G

hey a question abt the blind.
can you shoot a bow in it?
what is the measurement from the one wall to the other?
tys Greg


----------



## J.M.A.N.

One of the greatest threads ever...its 12:28 am and I have been called to bed twice but had to finish this thread. 

There is a whole lot of "SIMPLE GENIUS" on this forum!


----------



## 1snapple

I was thinking about setting up a target stand, Have 2 fence posts come out of the groung 4 feet apart, attach a pulley to the top, then get a winshield washer motor, and attacking that to the other post and putting my taget on the line connecting it, Then the target should move, left to right then right to left. Just for predictabilty and for the heck of it to shoot at. :darkbeer:


----------



## Jlars

Some of the winter projects I've got done so far.
Took off the cam straps on my lone wolf sticks and stand and replaced them with a modified whoopie sling I made from Sampson tenex tec. Light weight and quiet.








I made a knife from an old circular saw blade and sheath. A holster for my pistol. Also made some slammer tipups for icefishing steelies.


----------



## Dewberry

everything looks great guys


----------



## T_well

Go to Youtube and search for lighted nocks. There's a how to video and if I remember they turn on automatically.




Byron said:


> Huntaholic,
> 
> Do you have to turn the Nite Brite on before you shoot, or does it turn on automatically during the shot? I'm very interested in making some of these up for hunting, but want to be clear how I'll actually have to use them in the stand first.
> 
> Thanks,
> Byron


----------



## wb4syth

Not archery related but here are a couple of fishing rods I have built (built a total of 6 so far). All the handles are wood that I have turned on a lathe - some with inlays, some just cool looking wood.

The daughters rod is the Vikings colors and the son's rod is the Packer's colors.


----------



## sanman116

*nice nock*

nice nock


----------



## practice-more

wb4syth said:


> Not archery related but here are a couple of fishing rods I have built (built a total of 6 so far). All the handles are wood that I have turned on a lathe - some with inlays, some just cool looking wood.


Great looking rods, but I would have to say I like the Packer one better.


----------



## wb4syth

practice-more said:


> Great looking rods, but I would have to say I like the Packer one better.


We live in Minnesota. I told my son that the Packers rod wouldn't work in Minnesota and I told my daughter that the Vikings rod would catch huge fish but for some reason they will always come off the hook before you get them to the landing net :wink:


----------



## Hoosier bowman

wb4syth said:


> We live in Minnesota. I told my son that the Packers rod wouldn't work in Minnesota and I told my daughter that the Vikings rod would catch huge fish but for some reason they will always come off the hook before you get them to the landing net :wink:


:lol3::lol3::lol3::lol3::lol3:
Too funny!


----------



## sukii

what kind of blade are you using on your saw from harbor freight is it the one that came with the saw or are you using a carbide blade and if so where did you find it.
thanks some feedback would be nice sukii.


----------



## Hoosier bowman

ttt


----------



## abberdog

Byron said:


> I went to Wal-Mart and Bass Pro today - came up with a total of ONE Nite Brite! I'll play around with it this weekend. I did a Google search and found a thread on the Bowsite that added a twist - installing the neck section of another nock inside the shaft to allow the Nite Brite to be turned on automatically upon release. I'll be playing around with it this weekend.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Byron


Do you know if the light will fit inside an Axis Nano 400 shaft (X Nock)?

thanks

Mike


----------



## united by chaos

*Carbon Arrow cutting*



sukii said:


> what kind of blade are you using on your saw from harbor freight is it the one that came with the saw or are you using a carbide blade and if so where did you find it.
> thanks some feedback would be nice sukii.


I use a 3"x1/6"x3/8" abrasive cutoff wheel to cut my arrows. You can find them at just about any hardware store in the metal fabrication/welding section.


----------



## BLFD1

Tagged for later.


----------



## Hoosier bowman

Let's give this one a :bump2:


----------



## ZUKEBABY

*home-made deer cart*

Whew! Made it through all 40 pages to see if my cart had already been posted. Not able to weld or anything so it's not as rigid as others posted but it works. Take an old big plastic trash can, the kind with a handle and wheels and cut down along the back towards the wheels and then across to the front. A bit of an angled L shape. Then drill holes for bunge cords to strap the deer down with. A heck of alot better that dragging by hand. Cheap for me since we had a couple old ones around after our city went to the mandatory lease of the ones through Waste Management. I only have a couple pictures on my phone and cannot figure out how to get them to an e-mail or to post on here.


----------



## jazzy

*arrow heads*

I've been making arrow head mounts for fish and deer. also bow and gun racks.


----------



## jazzy

*arrow heads*

A few more


----------



## ANGEL

jazzy said:


> A few more


WOW! :thumb: Great work!


----------



## Buckeeboy

The arrow head would make a great bow rack,for my recurves & long bows...
Just say in.:embara:


----------



## Greybeard11

Hey guys...I made a lighted nock last night from a Thill Nite Brite battery. It does work very well. One thing I will say is that I used a Gold Tip G-nock and I did not have to drill the larger hole for the battery to go in. The thing slid in there very snug and worked great. I did drill a small hole in the end so the light could be seen. I used a black nock and was amazed how well it can be seen. This is a great idea and soooo easy, took me 3 or 4 minutes. I bought the light at Wally World for $3.39. I checked Cabela's website and they are $4.49, but you can get 3 different colors. Walmart only had red. Once again...great idea...Thanks.


----------



## kujoe9309

jazzy said:


> I've been making arrow head mounts for fish and deer. also bow and gun racks.



Very Nice, some looking great stuff.


----------



## jazzy

ANGEL said:


> WOW! :thumb: Great work!





Buckeeboy said:


> The arrow head would make a great bow rack,for my recurves & long bows...
> Just say in.:embara:





kujoe9309 said:


> Very Nice, some looking great stuff.


Thanks, these are the affects of too much time on my hands.:wink:
But trying to make more and turn it into a business.:thumbs_up


----------



## ANGEL

jazzy said:


> Thanks, these are the affects of too much time on my hands.:wink:
> But trying to make more and turn it into a business.:thumbs_up


Well, congrats! Im sure you will do great! :thumbs_up

Thank you BTW. You got me motivated to get to work on a skull from my grandfathers kill this year. :angel:

Keep up the great work! Im sure all that free time will fade one you get the stuuf out there for sell. :thumbs_up


----------



## Jlars

slammer tipup.


----------



## Hoosier bowman

Jlars said:


> slammer tipup.


Very nice job there. Nice fish too.


----------



## brandonxc

ttt


----------



## Hoythunter01

bump


----------



## delta_dog

Tag !!! Good stuff here !!!


----------



## Footballer

Here is my welded gun rack and cooler carrier for my mountain bike. Sure makes turkey hunting a blast!


----------



## Sully_pa

Footballer said:


> Here is my welded gun rack and cooler carrier for my mountain bike. Sure makes turkey hunting a blast


Nice job...always wanted to do that!


----------



## Footballer

the rack is detachable so I don't look like a ******* riding around my neighborhood!


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## rollingstonebow

Made me laugh. Gotta like that. Nice job:thumbs_up


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## gmcbuffalo

Toxarcher fantastic stand and very clever arrow saw, My hats off to you and your ideas.
Greg


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## gmcbuffalo

Coolhanduke and Meanv2 please more info. How did you make these?


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## dmgiss

*DIY Archers*

Try not to become a man of success but rather try to become a man of value. ~Albert Einstein


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## xdamagexx

nice arrow heads. did u use a router for the edges? AMAZING thread. been nibbling off pages for the past week.! wow.. got so many ideas to work on. thanx guys... luv the idea of glueing fletches to the wrap then apply. just did it and it works like a charm. wow. so simple.


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## KAMMANDO_808

wiseguy said:


> here's a couple knives i put together from purchased blanks
> 
> skinner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> filet


cool lookin skinner knife..


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## deerheaven

found this on net,,,,feeder
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xb2AM0ZcxuE&NR=1


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## fl dakota

just want to keep tabs


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## paraarcher

*Where do you get those lights?*



huntaholic said:


> Here's the picture of the Nite Brite Lite and what the finished product should look like. I put another one next to the nock so you would be able to see how deep to drill the second hole in the nock. I'll try to get pictures of the nocks in my target tonight as well.


How much do they cost compared to other lighted knocks?


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## rembrandt

YBSLO said:


> I made this myself - I used a harbor freight mini chop saw.
> Saved Big Bucks - Works Great To!!!!!!


What is it that holds the nock in place?


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## azarrowflinger

Does anyone have a set of plans for a draw exercise device? I recall there being something advertised about a year or two ago that allowed you to practice your draw when you couldn't shoot a bow (IE on business trips in hotel rooms etc) . I think it used the surgical tubing, or maybe the bands?


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## Bran8484

pfl


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## nflook765

Footballer said:


> Here is my welded gun rack and cooler carrier for my mountain bike. Sure makes turkey hunting a blast!


No pun intended right?!?! Haha.


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## FredBearFan87

This recipe works great from my experience. Made some after realizing I'm kinda broke and the store bought stuff is a lil too pricy. I think it was just under ten bucks for all the ingredients at a Rite Aid. For the unscented shampoo just use the baby wash Johnson and Johnson or some offbrand if you'd like. I let my batch sit for three days before I tried it out. Found out my dog had relieved himsilf on my rubber boots in the basement, so I sprayed it down. The next day I couldn't smell anything on 'em  Very happy with the results so far!


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## Craig B.

Here is a quad pod I made this summer. Square tubing, expanded metal and a boat seat from Academy. Each leg has a smaller tube inside with a foot on it to adjust for uneven ground and for the anchor stakes.


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## oldschoolcj5

Craig B. said:


> Here is a quad pod I made this summer. Square tubing, expanded metal and a boat seat from Academy. Each leg has a smaller tube inside with a foot on it to adjust for uneven ground and for the anchor stakes.


looks better than a store bought one!!


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## azarrowflinger

Not so much for hunting, as it is everyday use but I like it. Whipped it up a little bit ago.

Saw this at work last night when browsing the interwebs...

http://www.themalabarfront.com/prod...=1617&osCsid=acd456fd4ecd5d3c1e83f31c52ca3405


Dug out my last piece of scrap Kydex I had laying around, and started trying to make a pattern with some folders. After about ten minutes I had my new pattern that I thought would work better and got to work.




















Thats a fully loaded Glock 21sf (14 rounds) hanging in front of my wall. You can actually bounce it around pretty good with out it falling off, but a stiff draw releases the gun right away. I made two, one is now tied to my seat frame of my pickup, and the other is going to be attached to my bed frame so I don't sleep with a hot Glock under my pillow with out a holster anymore. :embara:

And the best part is Gaston was smart enough to make all his pistols have the same trigger guard regardless of what caliber or size it is so I can use these with all of my Glocks.:shade:


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## Misfire

azarrowflinger said:


>



Very Cool! 


When you market it your catch phrase could be, *"Never bring a neck knife to a neck gun fight." *

:tongue:

.


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## huntingfishing

sticky!!!


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## jdenkman

*to toxarch*

Just wanted to know if the lighted nock you made would work for easton axis arrows and what kind of light it is if it is [email protected] or what


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## jdenkman

hey like the idea just wanted to know if the light would work in a easton axis arrow and if the lights are rod @bobbs I seen you went threw hawglight.com to get them


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## mattheww1377

Here is a few things i've built for my bows. Got some of the ideas off here. Thanks guys. The things i made are lighted nocks, a flashlight stab in my homeade camo, a carbon rod stab, my scope for my sights, and my grips. They are close ups of my scope and my grips.. Again thanks for all the ideas....


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## dw'struth

You made that scope!? Nice.


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## Unk Bond

mattheww1377 said:


> Here is a few things i've built for my bows. Got some of the ideas off here. Thanks guys. The things i made are lighted nocks, a flashlight stab in my homeade camo, a carbon rod stab, my scope for my sights, and my grips. They are close ups of my scope and my grips.. Again thanks for all the ideas....



--------------------

Hello All
Very nice DIY projects . And very well done. :shade:


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## oldschoolcj5

lots of great work in this thread! LOTS


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## kerrye

*Home made stuff*

Well, I guess I might as well post a few pix of my handiwork. The shadow box mount of the snakeskin and arrowheads was a product of a fall bow hunt and lots of time walking plowed fields looking for arrowheads and the custom flyrods have been a lucrative hobby/business up until things crashed in fall of 2008.


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## kerrye

*Home made stuff (cont'd)*

Continued


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## kerrye

*Home made stuff (cont'd)*

Continued #2


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## kerrye

*Home made stuff (cont'd)*

Continued #3


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## Irish Sitka

What I am making at the moment is 5 gallons of honey wine.
20 jars of organic honey poured into 5 gallons of water with activator an yeast, put on a hot plate until yeast does its work. 
Add one pound of meadow sweet to flavor and two weeks later 5 gallons of 10 proof wine.
Will be ready in a few days.
Anyone interested in a detailed plan get in touch.


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## kerrye

I'm interested! I'm Interested !


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## Rollie83

ttt


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## okiefishbone

i have made them this way to buy my lights from academy sports if you go to you tube search how to make homemade lighted nocks pretty directions there to just be careful when glueing light into nock can glue light in off position as well hope this help


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## redbone311

Sticky to mark this thread


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## redbone311

condude4 said:


> Hey any of you guys have the thread for a PVC target stand? I made one out of PVC, but it pulled it self over, might have to make a brace for it.


There's only like several dozen at least within this thread alone. And then there is the search function as well.


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## Biketrax

Thought I would bump this up! 
Anybody know the thread that has the Dimension plans for the backyard homemade target? the one made with 2x4s?
I thought I saw someonelist a planned diagram somewhere
Link below 
thanks
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=384937


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## MyTFatal

ttt


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## Fiddlers_Green

Unk Bond said:


> Hello Dave
> 
> Dave Quote Crayola model magic...available at michaels crafts...
> Where might this be located.I don't recognize the name.Would it also be in a catalog.
> 
> Later
> Unk :smile:


there is a product called "My Grip" its a boil and mold type rubber and its pretty fast, and with the mesh they give you to texture it it has a nice feel. one of my buddies got a bunch for us to try when we were in afgahnistan on our m4's, theyre really easy and make a perfect grip. im thinking it would work better on a bow than that foam because it would reduce noise and vibration, i think its like 10 dollars


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## Unk Bond

Fiddlers_Green said:


> there is a product called "My Grip" its a boil and mold type rubber and its pretty fast, and with the mesh they give you to texture it it has a nice feel. one of my buddies got a bunch for us to try when we were in afgahnistan on our m4's, theyre really easy and make a perfect grip. im thinking it would work better on a bow than that foam because it would reduce noise and vibration, i think its like 10 dollars




==================

Hello All

Appreciate the information. Thank you. [ Later


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## HawgEnvy

J8 10-27 said:


> This is the bow light I use. It’s good for varmints, navigating and hmmmm. The light is a StreamLight M3 tac light. The light produces about 65 lumens +/-. It’s mounted on a weaver mount so you can slide it on and off, like a tactical pistol. I made the bracket from scrap metal and added two Limb Savers to it. It’s attached to the stabilizer mount. It makes a little vibration when the light is mounted, but w/o the light the bracket and mount are silent. The light has a toggle switch; one way is momentary on. The other is locked on. I put a small piece of adhesive sandpaper on the switch for better grip. The switch can be easily reached by my support hand index finger. The bracket can be bent so the light is aimed at the target. The light can be focused from beam to flood. I added a Butler Creek lens cover so there can’t be a light AD. Also, the Butler Creek has tabs on the sides that provide a great reference point for the beam focus. Everything together was about $130.
> View attachment 161036



bout $110 CHEAPER. works awesome!
http://discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86909&highlight=hog+lite


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## mermatt83

how did you make that stabilizer and how did it shoot? I'm thinking about trying it but don't have a clue where to start...


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## iwantone2.4

ttt


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## tarsalgland

ttt


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## CAllenMartinson

scoutlover said:


> I am sure this is common knowledge and not my original idea, but I figured I would throw this out here on this great topic. They used to make a product called Blood Tracker or something like that. It was a spray bottle used to positively identify blood when trailing. I dont remember how much it cost, but you can get hydrogen peroxide for about 25 cents a bottle and pour it into a spray bottle. Makes the blood bubble up like when you put it on a cut. Very helpful on those "less then ideal shots" when you can walk slow and spray a fine mist everywhere.


Add orange, pink, or purple food coloring to the peroxide. The foam will "glow" helping you to see it better.


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## Kb2112

HawgEnvy said:


> bout $110 CHEAPER. works awesome!
> http://discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86909&highlight=hog+lite


I just rubberbanded a light onto my stabilizer for night time raccoon/skunk/and other rodent problems. Quick removal is nice times


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## pdj

Here is something I made because I disliked having to screww in a gear hook so I made a strap on version-http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1089121


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## Capt'n D

ToxArch1 said:


> Here are some photos of the process.
> View attachment 671115
> 
> 
> View attachment 671116
> 
> 
> View attachment 671117
> 
> 
> View attachment 671119
> 
> 
> View attachment 671120


Made some of these last night. Haven't shot them yet to see how they work. Had a heck of a time drilling them where the side wall on the nocks didn't get to thin on one side. That's the only problem I see with them.


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## josephmrtn

ttt


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## Cris Anderson

*DIY Lighted F and G Nocks*

So, I've spent the last four days going through this thread, and wow. However, since it's been a month since it's been updated, I thought I'd share my own little innovation on the Thill Nite Brite home made setup. Mine is similar to all the others...it's a 'shoot to turn on, remove the nock to turn off' type setup...however, is for (so far) Bohning F nocks...which I've never found a tutorial for in a month or so of searching.

Here's the quote from another thread I shared it on:



Cris Anderson said:


> Ok...well, I didn't feel like waiting for the arrows and nocks I ordered to come in...so while I was at my kid's JOAD class (about 2 miles from my house, lol) today I picked up the three Victory VAP's she had in stock. The nocks are (I believe) Bohning F nocks in flo green (solid color not clear), but for testing purposes they'll do. I then ran to Cabela's (about 2 miles in the other direction from my house!) and picked up three Thill bobber lights in red.
> 
> I'll tell the rest of the story in pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bobber lights, arrow, nock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there's NO freakin way that nock is accepting this battery, in any way, shape...or form. As a matter of fact, the ID of the arrow is like .165", and the OD of the battery is something like .158". That leaves virtually NO plastic around the battery for support. But...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...if you 'modify' the plastic housing for the LED some......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...the light slips up in there juuuust fine. From there, roll the light tip and the very top of the sides in glue (be SURE not to get it below where the ridge used to be, or the light will not switch on), slip it into the nock, and hold it for a moment, making sure it dries straight. Now, the entire nock is the switch...as it's semi permanently attached to the LED housing. From there you'd put a stop in the arrow (a piece of nock like I did before, or a small length of appropriate size wooden dowel), and follow the instructions I made in my previous post above to set it up. At this point it functions much like any other home made lighted nock...other than the battery is NOT captured within the arrow...it's captured within the nock. To turn it off, pull the nock/battery out...pull the attached battery down, and reinsert the nock into the 'loaded' position in the arrow.
> 
> Done deal .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Outside of the arrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside of the arrow. Works just like the other setup...and I can't imagine it being any less durable since the thinned (and so slightly weakened) LED housing is now captured and supported by the nock shank. Also, this does look dim of course, but it's a freakin solid color nock, lol. My clear tangerine and apricot Bohning F nocks should be here this week, along with a set of clear Accunocks in lime with red inserts.
> 
> So, there's my solution to lighted G/F nocks . This doesn't help the people using FOB's of course...as there's no way to internalize the light. BUT...when I get my extra nocks, I'll mess around with another idea I've got bouncing in my head for that.
> 
> Hope that helps you guys .
> 
> OH! And this is IMPORTANT!! If you modify your nocks for any reason for any home made lighted setup, please polish anything you sand. Low grit papers take material off quickly, but in colder weather the polycarbonate becomes substantially more brittle, and those deeper scratches WILL form stress cracks. If you're drilling holes, use a hit pin instead. Melted polycarbonate doesn't present the same problem as drilled polycarbonate does. If you're sanding for clearance...stop before it fits perfectly and finish with 1500 grit. The polished surface will go a long way towards eliminating weak fracture points!


Also for those wondering...the nock above is 5.6 grains. The battery is 11.2 grains. A stop will be worth 2-3 grains at most. Sooo...for the VAP type G or F nocks...total weight will almost certainly be approximately 20 grains give or take.

Hope that helps. I'll be updating the other thread and this one when I get my new nocks and get a working setup in an arrow.


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## Iowabowhunter15

I have been making the same lighted knocks for years. I will never buy a lumanock.


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## Cris Anderson

Iowabowhunter15 said:


> I have been making the same lighted knocks for years. I will never buy a lumanock.


With G/F nocks? I'd made them before with S nocks...but I searched everywhere to find someone who had made them with the .165" nocks...and couldn't. Eventually I just ordered the parts and figured it out .


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## Iowabowhunter15

I am not quite sure. I just buy gold tip knocks and they fit pretty well. My design could be improved a little because it's a pain to take the knock off every time I turn it on but it works for now. My buddy cuts up knocks and glues them to the end of the bobber light so when you stick it down in it is snug and all you have to do is pull and push the knock to turn it on and off


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## chrisj0616

Tag for later


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## 99hunt

ttt


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