# Advice on arrows for 35lb recurve



## sweet old bill (Apr 21, 2003)

carbon shaft in 600 spine is right, if you want alum it would be 1916, I use 5 inch feathers but you could use 4 inch and they would fly good.


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## bowhuntrmaniac (Jan 22, 2012)

What Bill said . Leave 'em full length . Maybe Gold Tip 15-35's in carbon arrows. Try different weight points (100, 125, 145) and bare shaft shoot to tune.


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

yep...600's


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## ozzypop (Sep 23, 2010)

Carbon Tech makes great arrows. 25-45s for your bow. Leave full length for now.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

MG14 - 

600's will be way too stiff, unless left at least 31" long or you weigh down the heads needlessly. 

Best bet would be a 29" 1816 aluminum (0.756 spine) with NIBB/glue-in bullet points and any size/shape feathers you like.
They come in several flavors/colors and any will be fine. 
You can leave them full length (30.5") for now and cut them when your draw length stabilizes.
That recipe as been used for over 50 years. 

Viper1 out.


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

I just got some full length 600s with 85g tips and 4" feathers here:
http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_arrows/victory_vforce_v6_carbon_arrows.htm
Also consider these in 20/40:
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/carbon-express-predator-ii-feather-fletched-stock-arrow.html
You should probably try full length for starters with 100 or 125g tips if you do pull 28". Not sure as I have yet to tune these first ever 600s on my lighter bows an I pull 30".
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2012090&highlight=dab+glue

Congrats on the Sage. Do not over do it as you will be using some new muscles. Here is some info on a first bow kit:
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1588147

Here is some vid on form and exercises:
http://www.archerygb.org/support/operations/coaches/coaching_videos.php

Here is some info on tuning:
http://veraxservice.net/arch/tune.html

Good Luck!


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## martha j (May 11, 2009)

1816s, & start out with them long,


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## Dorado1873 (Oct 22, 2013)

I just bought these for mine. Very inexpensive compared to many others. Look great.
http://www.shop.bigjimsbowcompany.com/Gold-Tip-Carbon-Shafts-BLEMS-GTBLEMS.htm


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

A very lightweight 600 might work if you leave it full length. GT velocity hunters are a good choice.
Those 1535 "trad" fake wood ones will be to stiff. The fake wood adds a bit of spine and the additional weight makes them act stiffer. 

Lancaster Archery can provide them with feather fletching.

Grant


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## Nekekal (Dec 25, 2012)

I like carbon since it is all I have ever used. They don't bend which eliminates one problem for you. The spine sugged sounds about right to me. I have a 40 Lb bow and have used 500 spine arrows. I have been told on here that they are either too soft or too stiff. I like them. I currently have 400 spine arrows because they were cheaper, still carbon, about $90 a dozen with feathers, nocks and points, full length. I think they may be a little stiff. Whatever you get, leave them full length, whatever that might be for the arrow brand.

Feather cut, length, and color have no real impact on the arrow. I currently have 3, 4 inch feathers. They are only there to add drag and keep the back behind the front. There is no real danger of that not happening. Use any feather style and length that you like and can get.


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Different arrows, different tips?


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## longbowguy (Nov 14, 2004)

What Viper said and Martha confirmed. An alternative would be inexpensive carbon arrows in 750 spine. In either case l would leave them full length and use light target style points. I favor 1816 aluminum. 600 spine would be way to stiff, 500 and 400 wildly inappropriate. - lbg


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## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

I have 2013's, full length (~32") w/ 8% nibbs in them that shoot just a tad stiff from my Samick Spikeman 35#@28" bow drawn to 28". I also have some GT Ultralight Entrada 600's full length (30.5") that shoot a bit weak with std. inserts and 75gr points - these are very light and fast (190fps from this bow). I also have some old 1816's 29 1/2" long that shoot weak with 100gr points - I have not messed with them, but they could easily be made to tune also. These are pretty heavy and slow compared to the other two options mentioned above.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

Heavy aluminum and carbon spine recommendations DO NOT work when you are shooting very lightweight carbons. A 600 ultralight will work fine with between 75 and 125gr of point weight provided you leave them full length.

Even with 175gr points they will be substantially lighter than a 1816, but I doubt that would be required as I've shot that combo with bows under 30# before.

-Grant


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## Grim.army (Jan 1, 2014)

Ok, now I am truly confused. I am in the same boat myself, I just received a late Christmas present a Martin Diablo 35#@62". I haven't fired a bow or been bow hunting since 1996 when I left Alaska, and Carbon was fairly new. Everything I have been reading says I should be looking at a 500 spine with a 100-125 grain tip, yet the information given here contradicts that. Please explain or help me understand the difference. I have a 28.5 draw and I was looking at the Gold Tip XT Hunter 3555's.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

the GT 3555 will be too stiff...

a 35# average recurve will bare shaft tune closer to the 700 range. True, you can get a fletched arrow to shoot but getting bare shaft and fletched to properly group together...500 and 600's in the 35# range probably won't happen.


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## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

Grim.Army - I think that some GT Entrada Ultralight 600's w/ about 100gr up front would work nicely from your bow assuming you draw around 28"


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## mje1066 (Jul 12, 2013)

The Sage is close enough to being center shot that it's pretty tolerant of arrow spine. A shaft that's a bit stiffer than optimum should be okay. Use the biggest feathers you can get- the small amount of extra drag is more than compensated for by the increase in stabilization. I find that my recurves shoot well with a wide range of spines. The longbows I've made, which don't have as deep a window, require more matching. 

3Rivers has a great spine calculator on-line that'll get you started in the right area, but the only way to be sure is to get a test kit and try a variety of arrow spines. I personally shoot wood, as it's cheaper than carbon or aluminum, and because you don't get any more traditional than wood unless you harvest your own shafts in the woods ;-)


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## 257 roberts (Jul 31, 2006)

Grim.army said:


> Ok, now I am truly confused. I am in the same boat myself, I just received a late Christmas present a Martin Diablo 35#@62". I haven't fired a bow or been bow hunting since 1996 when I left Alaska, and Carbon was fairly new. Everything I have been reading says I should be looking at a 500 spine with a 100-125 grain tip, yet the information given here contradicts that. Please explain or help me understand the difference. I have a 28.5 draw and I was looking at the Gold Tip XT Hunter 3555's.


I've been into archery since the 70's but new to traditional, I just bought a Samick Sage 35# and the dealer set me up with Gold Tip Traditional Hunters 5575/400 30" long with 100gr tips and they fly like darts!!!


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Grim - 

You are looking at the wrong arrows. As with MG14, a full length 1816 will be a close bet. 
If can be shortened to tune later on. 

Viper1 out.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

257 roberts said:


> I've been into archery since the 70's but new to traditional, I just bought a Samick Sage 35# and the dealer set me up with Gold Tip Traditional Hunters 5575/400 30" long with 100gr tips and they fly like darts!!!



I have basically the same bow @ 40# and Beman .500" deflection shafts...no way it would they spine right--but would fly like a dart due to the fletching. I'm guessing your arrows have 4" or 5" feathers with helix or about 5deg. offset--this would be why they fly well.


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## 257 roberts (Jul 31, 2006)

Fury90flier said:


> I have basically the same bow @ 40# and Beman .500" deflection shafts...no way it would they spine right--but would fly like a dart due to the fletching. I'm guessing your arrows have 4" or 5" feathers with helix or about 5deg. offset--this would be why they fly well.


yes 5" feathers


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

257 roberts said:


> yes 5" feathers


With enough feather anything will fly.

You got sold what they had, not what was correct. Those arrows would be suitable for a 60# Sage.

-Grant


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## 257 roberts (Jul 31, 2006)

grantmac said:


> With enough feather anything will fly.
> 
> You got sold what they had, not what was correct. Those arrows would be suitable for a 60# Sage.
> 
> -Grant


what would you suggest.... I'm new to trad so I'm open to suggestions...I want to learn with the proper equipment,thanks


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## Dave V (Aug 13, 2008)

Think about it... the GoldTip numbering system is based on weight ranges. 5575 would be for a draw weight between 55 to 75 lbs! Waaay too stiff for a 35 lb Sage.

With the internet now at your fingertips, it's really easy to know more than the salesman.


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## shuumai (Nov 23, 2013)

Related question: I want to upgrade my 28# Polaris with 40# Journey limbs. My current arrows are 29" 1816's with 100 grain points. Would they hold up to the 40# limbs? (If so, I plan to order a few more 1816's for bareshaft tuning.)


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Shuumai -

They should be over spined for the 28# limbs and about right for the 40#s.

Only caveat is that I don't what what the weight of the Journey limbs will be on the Polaris riser. 
29" 1816s will go into the low 40# range.

I'd bare shaft them with the 28#s to see what happens, but start close.

Viper1 out.


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## shuumai (Nov 23, 2013)

Viper1 said:


> Shuumai -
> 
> They should be over spined for the 28# limbs and about right for the 40#s.
> 
> ...


I don't want to hijack, but this is all good to hear. (If 40# Sage limbs are 40# on a Polaris riser, the 40# Journey limbs should be as well. The Journey uses the Sage riser with basically what has been descirbed as a longer version of Sage limbs. The Journey is 64" compared to the Sage at 62". My Polaris is also 62".)


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Shuumai - 

Sounds good. Only caveat is that it doesn't preclude tuning and tweaking. 
Also assuming 100 gr max on head weight.

Viper1 out.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

257 roberts said:


> what would you suggest.... I'm new to trad so I'm open to suggestions...I want to learn with the proper equipment,thanks


Assuming you draw ~28" then the same as the OP:
GT 1535 Velocity Hunters with 100gr points and feathers left full length.

There are other carbon options but that is a very simple and available one.

-Grant


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## w8lon (Jun 2, 2012)

Oh Boy! Has anyone asked the OP what draw length they have? Could be anywhere from 21"-34", no idea. Could be either extreme with an actual OTF weight of 24-50 lbs thus the varied response from 400-800 spine arrows and the 26% FOC group to the 8% FOC standard of aluminum shafts.

More information is needed simple as that, otherwise listen to Viper!


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## Dave V (Aug 13, 2008)

The original post mentions 28"


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## w8lon (Jun 2, 2012)

Missed that Dave or just got caught up in the varied recommendations, just see far too many "my bow won't tune right threads", and these are the arrows the shop sold me because they say 35-55 on them!

Manufactures charts tend to be way off as they market the one size fits all mentality. For the beginning shooter the aluminum arrow is the way to go as there is greater spine choices as well as the variety of screw in point weights. As far as durability of aluminum shafts still using X7's from the seventies and still shoot just fine.


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## shuumai (Nov 23, 2013)

w8lon said:


> For the beginning shooter the aluminum arrow is the way to go as there is greater spine choices as well as the variety of screw in point weights.


Those screw-in points are nice. I just ordered some 145 grain points to test to see how they affect dynamic spine. Current points are 100 grain. (I wanted a big enough change to see a real difference, if any.)


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