# Xpedition tuning issues



## fulldrawnh (Aug 20, 2019)

Any tips for tuning the Xpedition’s that I may be missing? I set center shot to 13/16th and yoke tune. I just can’t seem to eliminate a right tail tear. Maybe the grip just doesn’t like my hand lol. I have no problem tuning hoyts and Mathews. And it’s getting a little frustrating. I’ve yoke tuned, moved the rest both directions, you name it and I’ve done it. 
Whether it’s the mako or mountaineer I get the same results. Any tips are appreciated.


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## mvermette57 (Sep 11, 2014)

Back when I shot Xpedition bows, I saw this often with my Xcursion 6HD and Perfexion XL... It may very well be my grip placement, but I tried to find a way around it. I don't have a definitive answer, but this was my process to correct the issue. 

I would start with testing bare shafts versus fetched arrows at a distance of 10yds (give or take). Pick a spot, and see if your bare shafts consistently hit lower than the fletched arrow. If so; I would raise the rest just a tiny bit, or lower the nock point ever so slightly. 

If that scenario holds true, I would move to correct the right tear you mention. I would start with the same process; shoot bare shafts and fletched arrows. You should find the bare shafts falling consistently left as compared to the fletched arrows. A half twist or untwist to the cable (whichever you prefer, I always choose to twist if possible). That should get you closer. 

I'm not an expert, but I dealt with a similar issue. This worked for me, hope it helps. Good luck!


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## flyangler33 (Feb 19, 2016)

Whats your DL/Poundage and what arrow and spine are you shooting?


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## johnetzel (Apr 23, 2009)

How far away are you shooting thru paper? I shoot about 6 yards. How big is your tear thru paper?


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## ouluckydogu (Dec 10, 2014)

If you know your bow is tuned, instead of tuning the bow again I nock tuned the arrows to shoot bullet holes and then fletched them. Earlier I had tuned the bow to arrows I got from south shore archery so I knew the arrows were good so I tuned the bow to them. Later I decided to make my own and used the bow I knew was in tune and nock tuned the new bareshafts to that bow.

Lucky


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## fulldrawnh (Aug 20, 2019)

flyangler33 said:


> Whats your DL/Poundage and what arrow and spine are you shooting?



28 inch 60 pounds .400 spine Victory VAP TKO


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## fulldrawnh (Aug 20, 2019)

I start at 5 feet then go back to about 10


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## fulldrawnh (Aug 20, 2019)

ouluckydogu said:


> If you know your bow is tuned, instead of tuning the bow again I nock tuned the arrows to shoot bullet holes and then fletched them. Earlier I had tuned the bow to arrows I got from south shore archery so I knew the arrows were good so I tuned the bow to them. Later I decided to make my own and used the bow I knew was in tune and nock tuned the new bareshafts to that bow.
> 
> Lucky


So im shooting victories and they are already spine aligned no need for nock tuning


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## fulldrawnh (Aug 20, 2019)

Quick update. I tuned to a bullet with bare shaft. Then put a couple dozen arrows through it and then my arrows started to fly funny. Started hitting high left. Put through paper and tear was right again. Yoke tuning did nothing. Moved my rest left as far as possible just to see and now it’s shooting bullet hole. It looks ridiculous lol! There’s got to be something very wrong here for this to be putting bullet holes through paper. The from the arrow to the front of the riser is more than an inch of separation far fro the 13/16th it should be at!


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

fulldrawnh said:


> Quick update. I tuned to a bullet with bare shaft. Then put a couple dozen arrows through it and then my arrows started to fly funny. Started hitting high left. Put through paper and tear was right again. Yoke tuning did nothing. Moved my rest left as far as possible just to see and now it’s shooting bullet hole. It looks ridiculous lol! There’s got to be something very wrong here for this to be putting bullet holes through paper. The from the arrow to the front of the riser is more than an inch of separation far fro the 13/16th it should be at!


Post a pic of your grip. Like this.


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## fulldrawnh (Aug 20, 2019)

nuts&bolts said:


> Post a pic of your grip. Like this.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

fulldrawnh said:


> nuts&bolts said:
> 
> 
> > Post a pic of your grip. Like this.
> ...


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## fulldrawnh (Aug 20, 2019)

So I took 3 shots through paper. The bottom two tail right tears with my grip and the new grip, the top tear is just a full hand white knuckle grip to compare with the arrow center shot set to .8140 or 13/16th The picture of the shelf is with the rest to the extreme left. The two holes the look almost good is with both grips again and with the the arrow at 1.181 inches from the front of the riser. So really no difference in the shot with either grip style.


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## fulldrawnh (Aug 20, 2019)

Ive tried many different grips because i was ultimately blaming myself, literally the only thing that would improve the shot through paper with the center shot at 13/16th was to torque the riser intentionally hard left and that would ultimately improve the tear. Ive tuned dozens of bows and haven't run into this issue before. Looking through some other threads ive seen another person experiencing the same issue with the same bow brand.


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## fulldrawnh (Aug 20, 2019)

https://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5859545


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## fulldrawnh (Aug 20, 2019)

Sooo.... took an Mx-15 out of the box today and through a whisker biscuit on it and set center shot to just about 7/8 which is recommended for the 2020 bows. Didn’t even throw a level on it for the d loop. Just eyeballed everything and this is the result with my normal grip. I’ve done zero Fine tuning To the rest or yokes. Now I really don’t believe it’s me


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

fulldrawnh said:


> Any tips for tuning the Xpedition’s that I may be missing? I set center shot to 13/16th and yoke tune. I just can’t seem to eliminate a right tail tear. Maybe the grip just doesn’t like my hand lol. I have no problem tuning hoyts and Mathews. And it’s getting a little frustrating. I’ve yoke tuned, moved the rest both directions, you name it and I’ve done it.
> Whether it’s the mako or mountaineer I get the same results. Any tips are appreciated.


Right tear, right handed shooter. Double the length of your d-loop, crank your right elbow farther behind your head (more clockwise). Use whatever grip you like, when shooting the Xpedition.


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## shinbone (Apr 19, 2007)

fulldrawnh - you ever get this issue resolved? I was hoping I could learn from your experience:

I have a nock-low tear in a Denali that I can't tune out. In fact, it doesn't matter what I do, the nock-low tear doesn't move.


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## shinbone (Apr 19, 2007)

shinbone said:


> fulldrawnh - you ever get this issue resolved? I was hoping I could learn from your experience:
> 
> I have a nock-low tear in a Denali that I can't tune out. In fact, it doesn't matter what I do, the nock-low tear doesn't move.



I've tried adjusting the following: rest, buss cable, control cable, arrow spine, and grip. The tear doesn't respond to any of those inputs.

If the OP, "fulldrawnh," doesn't chime in, I should probably just start my own thread. I'll give him a couple of days.


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## shinbone (Apr 19, 2007)

I think I have answered my own question. The experienced tuners probably already new all this, but I am still learning:

Xpedition says to re-set the top draw stop after each string/cable/buss adjustment. What should be emphasized is that the top draw stop setting does affect nock-tear. Consequently, the top draw stop must be re-set _using the exact same method_ each time. Different ways of setting the top draw stop location will cause minute changes in the draw stop location, which will, by itself, affect nock-tear, and consequently will cause confusion when trying to remove nock tear using the traditional methods (arrow rest and control/buss cable). In effect, you will be changing two different inputs at the same time, making things much more complicated.


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## drturi (Jul 24, 2010)

At 400 spine your marginal at best, and with the aggressive cam system on X bows I would recommend 350/340 spine.


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## Ajax2744 (Feb 8, 2018)

shinbone said:


> I think I have answered my own question. The experienced tuners probably already new all this, but I am still learning:
> 
> Xpedition says to re-set the top draw stop after each string/cable/buss adjustment. What should be emphasized is that the top draw stop setting does affect nock-tear. Consequently, the top draw stop must be re-set _using the exact same method_ each time. Different ways of setting the top draw stop location will cause minute changes in the draw stop location, which will, by itself, affect nock-tear, and consequently will cause confusion when trying to remove nock tear using the traditional methods (arrow rest and control/buss cable). In effect, you will be changing two different inputs at the same time, making things much more complicated.


I had the same problem with a nock low tear. I found some advice that was set your bottom stop at the setting you like, then measure with calipers the distance from the draw stop to the beginning of the cutout. Then add 8 thousands of an inch to that number and set your top stop to that. Then put on draw board and check cam sync. Then twist/untwist control cable to get cam sync. I fought and fought by resetting the top stop on a draw board and it would help marginally at best. Then when I did this method the first shot was a bullet hole.

Pics show where to measure. Obviously everyone's measurement will change based on draw length.


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