# Browning Mirage 1.5 Hybrid cams timing - Help needed please



## astrostar (Sep 28, 2007)

Hello!

Due to a right tear and some vibration that I think it was too much, I decided to fine tune my bow.

So, I´m trying to tune my bow the best I possible can and one of the things I want to put in spec is cam timing.
I already read alot of info regarding this question but didnt find any about this bow.
Some bows have dots or other kind of marks to check cam timing, others holes, the Mirage have two holes but, wich ones count?

A or B?

















A- Put string visible throught small hole?
B- Distance from hole to limb?

Many thanks

PS. ATA, brace, tiller inside specification.


----------



## NMP (Aug 6, 2003)

Time the bow at full draw by using the cam stops. The bottom one should have an actual stop or a long flat on the cable track used to stop rotation and the top one should look about the same just shorter if I remember right. get the cables laying in the flats at the same time at full draw and you are timed.


----------



## astrostar (Sep 28, 2007)

Thanks for replay Larry!

That is the way it was, but even so the top cam dont have a firm/flat stop is almost a "round stop" and is here I have my doubts.
When the bow is reaching the full draw the top cam is kind in a flat area but if I draw a bit more the bottom cam stops but the top cam dont have a firm stop, it is like the cam could go a bit more or as already passed the stop point. (sorry if I cant make myself clear).

Any way, here are the pics of what I´m trying to say:
A- is the string when first "flat" part of top cam is reached.
B- last flat part of cam
C- first flat part of cam

















Hope this images can help visualize the question.


----------



## NMP (Aug 6, 2003)

Looking at the cams I am not sure that the modules are in corresponding positions and it appears that the module screws may be the wrong type as well. They all look like the regular flat bottom screws. The screws that go in the perimeter holes with the letters should have a conical shaped head so that they are flush with the module when tight the ones in the slotted part are correct for that position. It also looks like the top module is set at position B and the bottom is at A.5. They need to match to be correct.


----------



## astrostar (Sep 28, 2007)

You are right, draw lenght is different but I changed it after start tunning the bow and forgot to set it rigth again. (havent shoot an arrow since I started tuning process)
The screws are the ones that came with the bow but you are rigth, it would make alot more sense conical, this week I´ll try to find new ones.
When bottom cam hits stop, top cam is like this:








The pink curve is more crisp then the cam curve it self. The cam curve is more smooth.

As you can see there is not a clear stop point, it can be a bit more down or not. Dont forget the cable thickness that enters the cam rail and make this more "subjective".

So, question remains: In what part of cam must the cable lay to be timed, should it be the rail we see below the limb or a bit more up?


----------



## NMP (Aug 6, 2003)

It should lay just like your red line is in the pic. About 4 twists in the buss should do it for ya.


----------



## astrostar (Sep 28, 2007)

thanks for the help Larry, is very appreciated!

In the last days I took strings and cables out of the bow, put it in the right spec and in the mean time my bow press (home made) had a small issue that is now solved.
Also removed the cam lean by moving a wash from one side to other and adding/removing some twists on the "legs" of the buss cable. 
Today I shoot some arrow to stretch the strings/cables and the initial right tear has gone.
Did not had time to make any other adjustments. Tonight I´m going to put a twist or even just half twist on control cable because I think cable hits top cam a bit first then the bottom.
Tomorrow I´ll make a few more shoots and continue tuning the bow. What I think it is excess of noise and vibration as not gone to levels that I can consider acceptable. Dont know if it is normal on this bow or not .

Only brace height is not in spec, it should be 7.5" and my is around 7.3"

Hope to be able to tune the bow just right.
Is a pity the lack of information on this bow. I googled and googled and the information available is very little.
Also PSE-archery dont have an email for direct support.


----------



## NMP (Aug 6, 2003)

http://tune.pse-archery.com/BowDetail.aspx?Year=2005&Model=0441

This is the only information that I have on the bow. Most like the bow timed with the top cam hitting just before the bottom stop. I like them dead even. If I remember right that bow does have a little hand shock on the shot and it was commonplace to install string silencers and limb dampeners. You may want to check into that as well. Post up a pic of the full bow and maybe someone can help you out with the noise with some suggestions.


----------



## NMP (Aug 6, 2003)

I also think that the drawlength measured up to 3/4" longer than specified on that bow too.


----------



## astrostar (Sep 28, 2007)

The PSE web site was already in my bookmarks, is the only info about spec I found so far.

Regarding draw length you say that when bow is set to 28" in the modules it will be 28" 3/4 if measured?
I also think that to have a perfect ATA and brace height the string should be a bit longer... just a thought...

Here is the bow (the camera flash result in strings/cables shadows)


----------



## NMP (Aug 6, 2003)

That peep tube is loud on the shot. I also think you are correct about the string but it may stretch but this will also make the poundage rise. Those small holes in the cams were orientation referrence marks and would get you close when lined up with the cables. That particular bows drawlength could have been measured to the end of the riser as well. Just measure from the rest mounting hole to the front of the shelf and it should be 1.75". Because it is not paralell limbed that bow could also benefit from a set of limb savers and a good string stop. Something else to look at is the arrow weight. The heavier the arrow the quieter the bow.


----------



## astrostar (Sep 28, 2007)

Yes, this peep is loud but with out it the bow sounds is almost the same.
Regarding the silencers I could put some on string/cables and limbs but wish ones works best? Limbsaver, Bowjax?
I'm using Easton excel 340 29" with 100gr field points. do not know the actual bow poundage because I didnt measured it yet, but guess it is near 60# 
Made a paper tuning today and the result was very good.


----------



## astrostar (Sep 28, 2007)

Regarding the silencers/anti-vibration devices I found this video:


----------



## astrostar (Sep 28, 2007)

This is the complete version I believe.






and a version from Limbsaver:







Now the question is:
What did experience told to people who use such devices? Was nice to hear what you all think about this.


----------



## NMP (Aug 6, 2003)

If that is where the noise is originating from you will see a significant change in vibration and sound.


----------

