# DIY Chainup Stand



## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

Do you have the plans for these I would love to build one or some


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## Barehunter (Feb 10, 2007)

tannertt said:


> Do you have the plans for these I would love to build one or some



I actually do have a folder with "plans" of a sort. The folder is at work, but I will try to get something to you next week.


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## Hunter Dave (Jul 17, 2007)

Nice work! Your stand's design is very similar to some stands mfg'd by Staghorn of Goshen, IN (company now defunct, I believe). I always felt that the fixed seat was the only thing I didn't care for and would have liked a flip-up instead. Notching the seat appears to be a pretty good compromise. Your levelers are a nice addition to a great design, too. Are you making your stands out of aluminum or steel? How much square tubing do you utilize per stand?


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## Barehunter (Feb 10, 2007)

Hunter Dave said:


> Nice work! Your stand's design is very similar to some stands mfg'd by Staghorn of Goshen, IN (company now defunct, I believe). I always felt that the fixed seat was the only thing I didn't care for and would have liked a flip-up instead. Notching the seat appears to be a pretty good compromise. Your levelers are a nice addition to a great design, too. Are you making your stands out of aluminum or steel? How much square tubing do you utilize per stand?


Thanks Dave. That may be the company that I copied it from. Never saw one of the stands, just a pic in a mag. I have considered making the flip up seat also, but the notch seems to do the job. The levelers really help on a crooked tree. They are removable and you can put one on the bottom left and one on the top right (for example) and really straighten out a crooked tree. Thus far I have built 8 steel stands and 2 aluminum. Probably takes around 20 feet of tubing (22 with the footrest.)


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## Barehunter (Feb 10, 2007)

The two stands shown in front are aluminum and have expanded metal floors. These two were made before I started notching the seat.


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## Hunter Dave (Jul 17, 2007)

Staghorn made 2 versions of that stand. I owned the smaller one and sold it a couple years back when I reduced my 'inventory' a bit (a move I've since regretted lol). My buddy still has the larger model and it's held up well. Hard to beat for stability and security.


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## flipmo (Jun 4, 2008)

Great stands Barehunter. I too would like to have the plans if you don't mind. How much would you say one weighs.


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## wolfy692005 (Dec 6, 2008)

Barehunter said:


> I actually do have a folder with "plans" of a sort. The folder is at work, but I will try to get something to you next week.


+ for me to sir if you dont mind... 
would love to try my hand with these.
thanks

Wolfy


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## Barehunter (Feb 10, 2007)

wolfy692005 said:


> + for me to sir if you dont mind...
> would love to try my hand with these.
> thanks
> 
> Wolfy


Will get the folder tomorrow and see what I can do to get something for you guys.


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## kzz1king (Jan 21, 2007)

I too would like a set of plans if they are emailable! If not I would gladly help with postage or something. They look great.


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## VA2 (Mar 26, 2007)

What are the dimensions of the steal you are using?


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## Barehunter (Feb 10, 2007)

VA2 said:


> What are the dimensions of the steal you are using?



In a day or two, I'll make an attempt to post "plans" for the stand, but the steel is 3/4" either 14 or 16 gauge square tubing. Of course other odds and ends too but the bulk of it the square tubing. 

I will post as nearly as I can directions to build it and maybe some other pics with a scale. Then if any of you get into it and have questions will be glad to answer them.


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## Barehunter (Feb 10, 2007)

Ok guys, I'll make a stab at getting the plans here for you. Probably won't be complete, but if any of you attempt building one, I will be glad to answer questions as needed.









*Material List*

*3/4" Square Steel Tubing*

Letters correspond to labels on pcs in pic

A 2 pcs 29" (these to be bent to make the sides of the base of the stand)
E 2 pcs 38" (these to be bent to make the sides that the hooks and seat are on)
B 5 pcs 18 1/2" (for standing platform)
C 1 pc 17 3/8" (angles to be cut on ends to make final pc of standing platform)
D 1 pc 7 3/4" (angles to be cut on ends to tie ends of standing platform together)

*Other Steel etc.*

H 2 pcs 1-1/2" X 3/16" angle 1" long
G 2 pcs 2" X 3/16" flat 2-1/4" long
F 1 pc 2" X 3/16" flat 8-7/8" long 

2 pcs 3/4" X 1/8" flat 19" long to be bent for seat supports

1 pc 3/4" plywood or equivalent 8" X 15" for seat

*Hardware*

2 bolts 5/16 X 2 1/2
2 bolts 5/16 X 2
4 bolts 1/4 X 1 1/2
4 countersink machine screws 1/4 X 1 1/2

2 pcs light chain 19" long
2 Stainless steel S hooks 5/16 X 3" 
Paint

My guess is that if you have the skills to construct the stand that you could probably take it from here. 

The two side pcs labeled "A" which are 29" long have to be bent to 26 deg at a point 14" from the front of the stand. Drill 1/4" holes side to side and 7" from the end that touches the tree in each pc.
The two side pcs labeled "E" which are 38" long have to be bent to 16 deg at a point 14" from the front of the stand. Drill 1/4" holes side to side and 9" from the end that touches the tree in each pc. and 5/16" holes 3/4" from front of stand and centered up and down 

The pc of 2" X 3/16 flat labeled "F" needs to angled off on each end so that short side is 7 3/4" 

Pcs of 2" X 3/16" flat 2 1/4" long (labeled G) need 5/16 holes drilled 5/8" down from top and 1/2" from the front. Matching holes to be drilled in angle pcs labeled H.

Spacing between pcs labeled B is 3" center to center (2 1/4" gap)


The seat supports will be very difficult to describe and may take some trial and error on your part. They are made from the 2 pcs of 3/4" X 1/8" flat 19" long. My notes say clamp in vise 2" from end and leaning over 15 deg. Bend forward with hammer roughly 40 deg. Then move up in vise another 7" still sitting at a 15 deg angle (from vertical) and bend around 75 deg backward. Then move up another 8" leaving 2" in vise and repeat as above bending around 40 deg forward. The second seat support will need to be the mirror image of the above. Confusing? I'm sure! Took me a while to figure it out. Let me know if I can help.

Seat is cut so that it is 15" wide on front and 12" in back. Radius as desired.

Should be obvious from the pics how the S hooks need to be bent and bolted on. Also how seat bolts on etc.































I'm sure there will be questions. Let me know if I can help!


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## Barehunter (Feb 10, 2007)

I did not include the footrest and bow holder in the directions. Will try to get some pics of that later.


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## Archer917 (Dec 28, 2008)

*Stand*

Good looking stand and good plans will start on one soon.


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## Barehunter (Feb 10, 2007)

flipmo said:


> Great stands Barehunter. I too would like to have the plans if you don't mind. How much would you say one weighs.


These stands are not light weight stands. The steel version weighs right about 21 pounds and seems like the aluminum is around 15. I have some Lone Wolf chainups that I use for longer distances. Normally in the situations I hunt I rarely have to carry one of these over 300 yards and at 52 years old I can easily carry one of the stands + 4 climbing sticks etc that distance. As I said earlier, I usually hang about 40-50 of these each season (moving the 10 that I have several times each.) 

Many would say that it would be easier just to use a climber, but I'm crazy about a chainup. It is SO nice to walk in with nothing but my bow, arrive at the stand to find a bow rope with a loop in the end already hanging at head high. I slip the loop thru my top wheel and loop it over the stabilizer. Hook my HSS vest to my home made vertical lifeline, climb tree in near complete safety, no safety strap to mess with when you get to the top, just pull up the bow and you're hunting. Reverse it when the hunt is over and you're on your way. 

For me at least it is worth the effort of hanging all those stands.


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## Barehunter (Feb 10, 2007)

The leveling devices are simply pieces of 9/16" threaded rod about 5" long with a nut. After hanging stand, just insert into end of tubing and adjust to level. In 80% of the situations they are not necessary, but really come in good on that one leaning or crooked tree that you just have to put a stand in.


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## NHLHVECTRIX (Jan 3, 2008)

*thanks*

very nice thank you for sharing the details in depth with us.


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## thahunter (Apr 14, 2009)

ne 4 sale?lol


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## ILBowhunter22 (Sep 10, 2009)

do u have plans for the sticks?


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## .BuckHunt. (May 12, 2008)

ILBowhunter22 said:


> do u have plans for the sticks?


Yea i would kinda like to build some too.


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## Bowman Dan (Feb 15, 2007)

*Nice*

:wink:


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## T_well (Jan 10, 2010)

*Plans*

Here's a link to plans for these stands and others too.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/22622651/Free-Deer-Stand-Plans


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## XHOGGER1 (Mar 30, 2004)

Nice stand, I have about 6 Staghorns , 3 of them with the flip up seat. The Staghorn is the best design of a fixed postion stand I've ever used.


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## F.C.Hunter (Jul 14, 2009)

Just a question what keeps the platform part of the stand from sliding down the tree and dumping the user out of the stand?


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## LiteSpeed1 (May 21, 2005)

F.C.Hunter said:


> Just a question what keeps the platform part of the stand from sliding down the tree and dumping the user out of the stand?


Look close in the first picture, it looks like he has chains running vertically.


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## F.C.Hunter (Jul 14, 2009)

Okay I see that now they kinda blended in with the trees in the background. Had me sitting here :set1_thinking: trying to figure out how the heck the platform stayed up. Thanks for pointing that out LiteSpeed1


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