# Pin float problem



## Bowtech0042 (Jun 10, 2011)

How do I fix it. More or less weight. It's really bad out at 40 yards.


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## tmorelli (Jul 31, 2005)

No one can really tell you that without seeing you shoot. To automatically assume it has anything to do with the mass weight of your bow or your stabilizers is doing yourself an injustice. Holding steady is much more about form and tension than it is about the weight/stabilization of the bow. There are other contributors too like cam timing, riser design, anchor, etc.

Also, "float" isn't necessarily a bad thing. As a matter of fact, a gentle drift is normal and desirable. You honestly might just try not worrying about it and focusiing solely on the point you want to hit for a while and see if the "pin float" doesn't just "disappear".

Good luck in your endeavors!

Tony


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## da white shoe (Mar 10, 2009)

If your bow fits you perfectly and you are not over-bowed in holding weight... then it's just a matter of relaxation at full draw.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

I was once told that if I notice the pin float, then I'm not focusing on the X hard enough.

I'm not sure that this is entirely true, but it is part of it.

Only a very few archers can hold absolutely still on the X. Even these can only do it for a few seconds and they can't do it all the time. Accept the float that you have, but work on form presets to slow it down. Alignment, shoulder position, relaxing the right muscles and engaging the right muscles will slow pin float. 

A rule of thumb is "The tension of holding should be achieved in the back and only in the back. All the rest, arms, hands shoulders, etc., are just hooks and levers."

I can't achieve this completely, but I find that the closer I can come to it, the steadier I am.

Darrin McCutcheon once posted that the pin is either moving toward the center of the X or away from it. If you are holding dead in the middle, the only possible movement is away. This worked good enough for him to win Vegas in '96.

Bow fit and balance are certainly important parts of the solution, but good form and mental focus are the foundation.

Not easy, but worth it.
Allen


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## Bowtech0042 (Jun 10, 2011)

Alrighty I'll see what I can do. It's a new Z7 extreme that was setup for me so it SUPPOSE to fit lol. Thanks


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Bowtech0042 said:


> Alrighty I'll see what I can do. It's a new Z7 extreme that was setup for me so it SUPPOSE to fit lol. Thanks


Don't count on it. There may be some who can set up a bow without watching you shoot a lot of arrows (and understanding what they are seeing), but they are few & far between. You won't find them at most shops. 

At most shops, you are lucky if they can accurately figure approximate DL by the wingspan method. At too many shops, the best you can hope for is within an inch. Many shops do better than that, but too many can't.

From the "lol", you probably understand the problem. 

For best accuracy, your DL has to be within 1/8", and closer is better. 

DL is important because it is one of the things that allows you to have optimum alignment and leverage.  It helps you set up the form that is the steadiest which allows you to focus on aiming. 

There are a lot of great shops out there & I don't mean to insult them. But for every one of them, there are too many that don't understand good form and how to set up a bow for it.

Allen


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## subconsciously (Aug 22, 2009)

Draw length and pin steadiness go hand in hand with me. If my draw is a little long (Im talking as little as an 1/8") I will not hold as steady as when it is perfect. I use a draw board to make sure my bows are exactly where they need to be. Ive done this thru many hours of tinkering and shooting.

This is not to say this is your problem, but proper draw length in association with all other aspects of your form.......can lead to a very stable platform.


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## bell47 (May 20, 2011)

So I'm shooting a Bowtech Specialist that has .5 inch adjustment increments. I think I'm really close at 29.5 and 30 seems to long. Is finding somewhere in the middle, trial and error using line twist? 29.5 puts the string about 1/8 infront of my nose when I'm anchored, at 30 my bow arm seem too extended and I get slapped in the forearm about every shot.


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## subconsciously (Aug 22, 2009)

Yes. Twisting the string and or untwisting the cables (to shorten) and vice versa to lengthen. Shortening or lengthening in these small increments will not affect performance. It will affect poundage in very small amounts.


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