# Broadhead Tuning Problem



## Rick! (Aug 10, 2008)

Before changing things on the bow, you may need to check out a few basics.

Your grip needs to be very relaxed otherwise you will torque the bow and shots will be inconsistent. Look up Larry Wise and his grip technique, it helped me immensely when I started shooting.

Next, make sure your anchor is the same every time. This is essential as everything to do with shooting consistency starts with a repeatable anchor. Three anchor points are good - nose, lips, thumb hooked behind your lower ear or whatever is consistent for you (a knuckle on my earlobe works for me). A kisser button works for bows that don't allow the string to get near your nose.

Lastly, broadheads magnify every error in technique and set-up through release. You need to release the arrow very cleanly for the BH to fly true. Basically, find a way to activate your release without changing its position - no trigger slapping or sloppy elbow movement, just lightest amount of pressure to activate the trigger should be practiced.

Trying this out before turning screws or changing sights will help you diagnose your situation. Good luck.


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## SPTiger (Dec 18, 2007)

Broadhead tuning has given me more grief this year than I could have ever imagined. I was ready to give up archery forever until I got calmed down and took things one at a time to figure out the problem. I'm no expert but I agree 100% with what Rick said. Pay very close attention to your form, and eliminate any sloppy movements. My biggest problem is not following through with the shot. If I am broadhead tuning I have a bad habit of watching the arrow instead of the target and that throws everything off.

I had two problems when I was trying to shoot broadheads: my shafts were weak and my centershot was off. Also, when you change something change it in small increments and make sure you remember where you started. Just yesterday I changed the draw weight of my bow by one pound and had to adjust accordingly for that. Little things make a difference!


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## jdouthit (Jun 18, 2009)

Okay, I read y'alls responses, looked up Larry Wise, and watched a video he made on how to properly grip the bow. I went home today and shot while paying close attention to my grip. I had a few arrows that were off the mark, but for the most part (after swapping the broadheads around to different arrows) I had some consistency today from 20 yards. Below is a picture of my results. The green circle was where my fieldtips were hitting at 20 yards and the red is where my broadheads were hitting at 20 yards. I even shot the broadheads at 30 yards and they too hit in the red circle. My guess is I'm ready to broadhead tune now, BUT as stupid as it sounds I don't know how to adjust my rest and I don't want to just start unscrewing stuff to see what happens. My wife bought me this bow used as a gift and it came fully equipped. I don't know what kind of rest it is, but have also included pictures of it hoping someone can tell me.


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## <COPE> (Jan 19, 2009)

I personally believe that the only way to shoot fixed broadheads consistently compared to your field points is to paper tune your bow. If you dont have a setup to do that......from the picture it looks like your BH's are hitting low and left so i would start by moving your rest up and left.( I could be wrong with that but I would try those moving my rest those directions first.)


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Groups are good! You can work with that. Looks like a Muzzy rest to me. Move the rest left or right and try it again. It should be evident which way to go after you try it. The groups should get closer or father apart.


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## TMan51 (Jan 25, 2004)

Broadhead tuning makes everyone crazy from time to time. The problems that most people have are related to tuning, but also on the list is vane clearance, speed and BH surface area, and some combinations are just not going to work for some shooters, with no good reason.

Think of BH tuning this way. The arrow must travel in a straight line, until the vanes start the arrow spinning. When the shaft starts to spin, the shaft will continue to travel in the direction it's pointed when spin stabilization takes over. Sounds simple, but some vane configurations may travel as much as 30ft before completing the first full turn.

Paper tuning with a fletched shaft does not tell the shooter if they have spin initiation within an acceptable distance, or that the rest is timed properly to clear the shaft. BH tuning, has some significant value, and bare shaft tuning will tell you how far the shaft travels reasonably straight before starting to lose alignment. 

Your rig is in the 260fps range, at least, the Slick is usually easy to tune for, but the truth is they typically require some effort. What is your vane configuration?


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## jdouthit (Jun 18, 2009)

I'm not real sure about what all you are asking for the vane configuration, but I have 4" vanes. I guess my main question is, what should I adjust on the rest I have in order to move it left/right and then also up/down?


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## konrad (Mar 29, 2009)

Strange but true, I have heard of some manufactures arrows being fletched with no offset or helical twist. 

Your sweet wife bought you a “Ready to Shoot Package” and I’m betting it came with arrows.

A Place to Begin

1: Verify you arrows have a fletching off-set when looking down, across the arrow with the arrow horizontal to the ground. If the fletching or vanes are not positioned to impart spin to your shaft, you can dip those Tricks in holy water and they still won’t fly for beans.

2: Verify the arrows you have are correctly spined for your draw weight, length of shaft and weight point. While accuracy won’t be maximized, a shaft a little too stiff is better than one too flimsy when shooting hunting tips.

3: Verify you bow is set correctly for your draw length. Inconsistent draw length produces poor sight picture and velocity deviations that adversely affect accuracy.

Now you need an observer to watch your shooting technique…preferably a person familiar with archery. Here is where a true “Pro Shop” is invaluable. With good coaching, you will avoid weeks and perhaps even months of discarding bad technique (form) habits.

Slow down! Enjoy the dialing in process. It is the part of the sport I enjoy the most. Maybe this year you’ll have to use a firearm for hunting.

Now, go kiss your wife and thank her again for being such a sweetheart. Apologize for any griping you may have done about your wonderful new bow!


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## TMan51 (Jan 25, 2004)

jdouthit said:


> I'm not real sure about what all you are asking for the vane configuration, but I have 4" vanes. I guess my main question is, what should I adjust on the rest I have in order to move it left/right and then also up/down?


Vanes can be mounted straight (worthless for broadheads), straight offset, or helical offset. Vanes of a conventional design vary by length and height, vanes like NAP quick Spins, can be mounted either way, but have max spin in a helical configuration. In fact all vanes designs I've ever worked with produce max spin mounted helical.

Left/right adjustments have several different types of ways to adjust centershot, the adjustments will be design specific. Up/down can be achieved by raising/lowering the nock and/or the rest height.


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## jdouthit (Jun 18, 2009)

I seem to be grouping them as seen in the pictures above, but I don't know how to adjust my rest. As somebody mentioned, I THINK it is a muzzy zero effect rest. I have color coded circled the bolts I can find for adjustment, but I'm not sure which ones to move. Could anybody help me out? I think I need to move the rest to the right and up a bit to match the fieldpoints. Also, I'm left handed if that makes a difference.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

I never had a muzzy or I'd try to help you with it..
TTT for help.


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## fletched (May 10, 2006)

The green circle will adjust the left and right. Just loosen it up and it will allow you to slide the launcher in or out. Not pictured is a threaded rod the goes to the cable slide, You can adjust the rod to control your up and down.


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