# If your broadheads hit 2" right of...



## rogbo (Jan 2, 2004)

try moving the rest just a smidge (like 1/16th inch or less) TOWARD your field point group. But all in all 2 inches aint bad. You didn't say what distance this is at either. If it were at 10 or 20 yards I would probably try to tune out the difference. If it's at 40 yards I don't worry about it.


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## trailk11 (Feb 21, 2007)

distance was at 20 yards, but it didn't change any out to 30 and 40 either....still about 1 1/2 to 2 inches right.


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## BabyBoy (Jan 11, 2007)

I would say never move your rest. you move your rest and then you can get out of squatre and its a mess. if you are hitting to the left move your sight to the left and if you are hitting to the right move the sight/pin to the right. do it a little at a time and you get it where you want it to be.


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## 6bloodychunks (Oct 26, 2005)

personaly i would move the rest very very slightly to the left as said before 
maybe 1/16th or even much less (micro adjust makes this a breeze)

if you make very tiny adjustments field points and b-heads can and will hit the same p.o.i.

:darkbeer: :darkbeer:


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## Doc (Jun 10, 2003)

6bloodychunks said:


> personaly i would move the rest very very slightly to the left as said before
> maybe 1/16th or even much less (micro adjust makes this a breeze)
> 
> if you make very tiny adjustments field points and b-heads can and will hit the same p.o.i.
> ...


Bingo:thumb:....don't kill me

If you have a single cam...also check the string feed into your idler.


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## 6bloodychunks (Oct 26, 2005)

wont kill you:wink:


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## Bowtechie (Jan 20, 2003)

If he moves the rest to the left his field points will move to the left too plus it won't be tuned for field points since he already walk back tuned his field points. Some broadheads will not hit the same place as field points no matter what you do. If I was setting the bow up to hunt with (I assume turkey hunting) I would move my sight a little till my broadheads hit where I am aiming and go hunting. Put a small mark on your windage where your field points shoot straight and change it back and forth. Yes I would walk back tune your broadheads. Especially where it looks like you hunt.


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## rogbo (Jan 2, 2004)

You're right about moving the field point groups as well, however the broadheads and field points should start to hit together and then you can adjust your sights so that everything flies to the same aiming point. If I walk back tune I need about a 4 foot high target to shoot at 20-40 yards with the same pin. I just don't have access to a broadhead target that tall. It's interesting that the deviation from the field points doesn't get larger as you go back. If the arrow is planing from slightly misaligned centershot, I would think that the difference in point of impact would continue to increase the farther back you go. This could certainly be indicative of a very slight arrow spine issue. Try this. Go ahead and move your rest as previously indicated. If after two moves of no more than 1/16th inch, the problem isn't solved, put it back to the original spot (mark your horizontal position to make this easier) and take 1/4 to 1/2 turn off your limb bolts. This will lessen your draw weight slightly and make your shafts act slightly stiffer. Broadheads to the right of field points, on a right handed bow, is an indication of a weak shaft.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

I am of the opinion that right broadhead impact is a sign of a left tear condition. Check all you bow's specs, make sure your arrows spine is sufficiant, make sure your idler is reasonably straight at full draw. Watch you don't have to much hand in the grip, more to the thumb side. Here's where I differ from the above, move the rest towards the broadheads. Let us know how you make out.


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## JLR (Apr 11, 2006)

I second the comment to move the rest to the right. Does not make sense but in most cases will solve the problem.


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## Bonz (Jan 15, 2006)

I third the vote of moving rest to the right. www.lawleroutdoors.com Check out the bowsetup and tuning in the archery section.


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## phumb (Oct 7, 2006)

if your walk back tuneing was perfect, i'd agree w/rogbo and say it may well be spine. try some lighter bheads or turn down your poundage. also, for the heck of it, rotate your nocks, this will often move broadheads around more than you'd think.


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## Tracker12 (Sep 22, 2003)

If you are shooting 2" left at 20 yards. It should increase when you move out to 40 yards. If not it may just be a tourqe issue which I would think would still bring you farther left if your shot is consistent.


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## Manhunter50 (Oct 23, 2006)

*Me too...*



red44 said:


> I am of the opinion that right broadhead impact is a sign of a left tear condition. Check all you bow's specs, make sure your arrows spine is sufficiant, make sure your idler is reasonably straight at full draw. Watch you don't have to much hand in the grip, more to the thumb side. Here's where I differ from the above, move the rest towards the broadheads. Let us know how you make out.


I've used this technique numerous times on my own and other people's bows and I'd move the rest slightly toward the broadheads as well. I've *never *found a properly aligned broadhead that won't shoot to the same approximate point of impact as a practice point of the same weight and same FOC (or close).


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## Tim R Rau (Oct 31, 2005)

By changing your sight you are just masking a tune issue.Your broadheads and field points should hit the same spot or your set up isn't as good as it could be.Some people just don't want to spend the time fine tuning a bow to get the best possible tune.Can you still kill deer?Yes.Could your bow be set up more forgiving?Yes


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## Bowtechie (Jan 20, 2003)

As I said in my previous post if he moves his rest at all in either direction his field points will not be tuned correctly and he will hit left or right at the longer shots while shooting 3D. Yes you can get field points and broadheads to hit the same but if they don't do it without moving your rest you are not fine tuning but you are compromising. Most mechanical broadheads will shoot to the same POI as field points when the bow is set for them. Some fixed blade broadheads will too but some WON'T and if you have to move your rest from the TUNED field point position guess what your field points will not be TUNED anymore.


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## phumb (Oct 7, 2006)

I agree with Tim, 1 1/2" to 2" will require a VERY SMALL rest move. and probably would still keep fps good at yardage(walkback).


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## rogbo (Jan 2, 2004)

Look, all tuning methods have merit and can be successful. However, none of them, and I mean none of them is "perfect". Take walk back tuning.....you hang your string or place your tape or whatever. Is it "perfectly straight"? Maybe, or maybe it's 1/16" off. Do all your arrows hit in a "perfect" line? Or is one 1/8" to the left, one right on and one 1/16" to the right. I'll tell you what, I can shoot alright, I'm no pro but I'm not a schlub either. What I can't do is hit a 1/32" piece of hanging string at 40 yards every fricken time. I'll never say never but I will say neither can 99.99% of you either. If you can do that, or shoot a "perfect" bullet whole or place a bare shaft in the same darn hole as the fletched shaft every single time, then and only then would I say you tuned "perfectly". And if you can do that I would also be willing to wager that every single broadhead you screw in (assuming it aligned "perfectly") will hit exactly with your field point. Other than that were wasting time and cyberspace arguing an unproveable issue. What I do know is this. With my setup having bareshaft tuned to the best of my ability, walk back tuned to the best of my ability and finished with broadhead tuning TO THE BEST OF MY ABILITITY my arrows fly straight, the broadheads hit with my field points, I have no penetration problems or accuracy problems to the best of my ability. Ol' boy wanted to know how to make his field points and his broadheads hit together. He's gotten alot of good advice from many different contributors. I just wanna know how it worked out for him and what he found to work the best for himself.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Huntntrail, how about it? Have you made any progress? Rogbo is correct. The end result is all that matters here. If I use one method that works for me and someone else does another there is no right or wrong. But if you would'nt mind an update, you may help another person out. Sometimes I don't have the right answere, but got someone thinking or looking at it a different way, and that has allowed them to figure out the problem. End result is what we're after. You may be helping someone else. :cocktail:


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## sean (May 31, 2003)

huntntrail said:


> where your field tips are hitting...do you A) move your rest a bit back to the left, or B.) move your sight back to the left ( it's already a bit left of the string)
> ..I walkback tuned with field tips...do you need to walkback tune with broadheads too?


forget it , they shouldn't hit in the same place you just changed the whole dynamic of the projectile .... if they do hit in the exact same spot your bow probably isn't tuned well to begin with .....way to much emphasis is placed in broad head to field point "point of impact "


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Sean, could you explain your comments with more info? If a broadhead is the same lenth and weight, why would you be de-tuned if they were hitting the same?


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## phumb (Oct 7, 2006)

sean said:


> forget it , they shouldn't hit in the same place you just changed the whole dynamic of the projectile .... if they do hit in the exact same spot your bow probably isn't tuned well to begin with .....way to much emphasis is placed in broad head to field point "point of impact "


strongly disagree. If any difference, and I don't believe there should be any. It would be up/down. what "dynamics" would make it go right/left?


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## sean (May 31, 2003)

red44 said:


> Sean, could you explain your comments with more info? If a broadhead is the same lenth and weight, why would you be de-tuned if they were hitting the same?




if all the broad heads hit in the same spot why worry about where the field tips hit ? .....for one the field tips don't have blades or the same aerodynamic characteristics


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

I can see it if the broadheads are much longer, your moving the FOC slightly. But for the average shot on game here in the east might be 25 yards I don't think it will be an issue. If you can get them hitting together it is, if nothing else, convenient.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

sean said:


> if all the broad heads hit in the same spot why worry about where the field tips hit ? .....for one the field tips don't have blades or the same aerodynamic characteristics


Not a challenge, what do you mean by aerodynamic characteristics? Do you mean broadhead blades steer or that they are better or worse with friction, what?


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Sean, this is'nt the first time I've heard this, but I don't understand the logic behind it. How are we doing wrong by getting them hitting together?


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## Bowtechie (Jan 20, 2003)

Sean .... Don't waste your time. There are too many on this thread that are willing to settle for compromised and mediocre "tuning".


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

NOT a waste of time. If I am ignorant then educate me. I haven't seen and done it all, I openly admitted that here many times. Instead of closing down and not explaning, or offering why you would or would'nt do something, explain why, or you are not helping. At least I'm trying to help. I'm all ears and eyes.


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## rogbo (Jan 2, 2004)

Red, don't waste your time, there are two many here that settle for mediocre answers.


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## Bowtechie (Jan 20, 2003)

red44 ... "Rogbo is correct. The end result is all that matters here."

This doesn't sound like being open minded to me. Follow whoever you want.
You can go back and read my 2 posts earlier. That explains it pretty well.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

I was refering to what ever method he used to achive the results he was after. I thought that was open minded. I'd like to hear it. Ya know it would'nt be the first time I was wrong.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Huntntrail, sorry about the way the thread left the objective. It was not my intention. Hope you have things sorted out and shooting the way you want it.


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## sean (May 31, 2003)

phumb said:


> strongly disagree. If any difference, and I don't believe there should be any. It would be up/down. what "dynamics" would make it go right/left?


for the same reason two bullets of the same weight and of diferent design can hit in diferent places horizontal and vertical even if fired at identical velocities 

for one you just moved a considerable amount of weight farther from the center axis of the shaft so any slight variance in blade weight or height can effect arrow flight also the blades will act as a vane acts attempting to steer the arrow to a degree ...drag is increased as the surface area is increased .. total surface area of a broad head is several times what a field point is ..... there are to many subtle differences to begin to list here and we could discuss this till H freezes over but if the broad heads all hit the same spot does it really matter where the field point hits ?


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## archer58 in pa (Jan 3, 2007)

Red 44 mentioned idler lean earlier.
I owned an LX and I had the same problem as here. 
Before you start twisting your yoke , I would SPIN CHECK YOUR BROADHEADS.
Center shot on my LX was just inside the recommended 13/16".
I f it still hitting right I would say your idler needs tuned.

I went to Mathews website for tuning procedure. 
In short, if you lay an arrow shaft on the INSIDE of your idler (shelf side of the bow) parallell to the string , that arrow should appear to run PARALLELL it's length and not crossing the string or pointing toward it.
I hope I explained it o.k. 
That should fix you up.
For a deeper explanation , go here http://forums.mathewsinc.com/viewtopic.php?t=43030

I hope this helps.


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## sean (May 31, 2003)

archer58 in pa said:


> Red 44 mentioned idler lean earlier.
> I owned an LX and I had the same problem as here.
> Before you start twisting your yoke , I would SPIN CHECK YOUR BROADHEADS.
> Center shot on my LX was just inside the recommended 13/16".
> ...




a great tool for checkin out cam lean etc is the Hogg eye laser alignment tool spot hogg makes :wink:


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## archer58 in pa (Jan 3, 2007)

sean said:


> a great tool for checkin out cam lean etc is the Hogg eye laser alignment tool spot hogg makes :wink:


Yep, that too.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

So you got me thinking, where have I seen this before. http://forums.mathewsinc.com/viewtopic.php?t=43031 
Paragraph 6. And thanks for coming back in Sean. :thumbs_up


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## phumb (Oct 7, 2006)

sean said:


> for the same reason two bullets of the same weight and of diferent design can hit in diferent places horizontal and vertical even if fired at identical velocities
> 
> for one you just moved a considerable amount of weight farther from the center axis of the shaft so any slight variance in blade weight or height can effect arrow flight also the blades will act as a vane acts attempting to steer the arrow to a degree ...drag is increased as the surface area is increased .. total surface area of a broad head is several times what a field point is ..... there are to many subtle differences to begin to list here and we could discuss this till H freezes over but if the broad heads all hit the same spot does it really matter where the field point hits ?


thanks for interesting reply...


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