# Reflex growler tuning new strings



## sheboyganjohn (May 25, 2006)

Well I put new strings on my Growler that I just picked up. I have the DVD from Hoyt Thompson and followed that method. I have the ATA a hair less then 1/16" short. The draw stop timing is on. Tiller is fine. Brace hight is 1/4" long. I tried to twist the sting to adjust the BH but it did not seem to change, even after 15 twists. Do I need to worry about brace height? Also I cannot find any tuning info other then the standard numbers for the Growler. I am looking for what hole so the draw length be set in when tuning, do I turn the limbs down tight or down and back 1/4 turn? Do they measure BH from the deepest point in the grip or by the berger hole?

I do not have a bow scale at this time so I cannot check it.

Thanks for the help in advance.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Check what cam number you have and then set module to corresponding length. Ex; #4 - D.
You really need to scale the draw weight. If heavy, back off all strings and start over with draw stop timing. Most bhs are checked to the deepest part of the grip, but you need to check.
??? To shorten bh you untwist the buss and control cables, not twist the bow string.


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## Hoyt Thompson (May 7, 2007)

*Hello*

You could have Pm'ed me for help, I always will be available to help you out.

On a bow with Paralell limbs you will find as you did that the BH barely moves with the string.

I have recently learned (actually was told this and it seems to correlate with my findins) that Hoyt does use the rear of the Berger Hole as the brace height measurement but the berger hole is allowed a wider tolerance.

I tried installing a hoyt specific rest and found out that my berger is way forward and had to file down the rest for adequate fit.

I like to line up the deep part of the grip with the berger hole for comparison and then use the berger hole for the rest of my measurement.

If you met these targets from the DVD;
A2A (within 1/4")
Draw Stop Timing
Tiller
Draw length
and Draw weight then your brace is at about what it is going to be.

Rememebr those numbers on paper are just that and not the "grail" you are searching for.

If you need any help I will more than happy to help you out.

Matt

HT


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## Hoyt Thompson (May 7, 2007)

Oh yeah and seeing that they do not post the module numbers for tuning I would call hoyt and see what they say.

I wished that was on their website but have not seen it there ever.


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## sheboyganjohn (May 25, 2006)

Thanks for the help. I am going to pull the whole bow apart and start over with measuring the string and cable. WIth all the twisting I have done I want to get everything back to the starting point.

Matt, I would have PM'ed you but since I could not find an answer searching the boards I figured it would be a good post to have out for everyone. 

I will have to try and track down a bow scale. I did not do the draw length check either. I was still waiting on my rest (which showed up today) so I will get it this time around.


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## Hoyt Thompson (May 7, 2007)

sheboyganjohn said:


> Thanks for the help. I am going to pull the whole bow apart and start over with measuring the string and cable. WIth all the twisting I have done I want to get everything back to the starting point.
> 
> Matt, I would have PM'ed you but since I could not find an answer searching the boards I figured it would be a good post to have out for everyone.
> 
> I will have to try and track down a bow scale. I did not do the draw length check either. I was still waiting on my rest (which showed up today) so I will get it this time around.


No problem at all, just wanted you to know that I would help you in any way I could.

Seeing you have the bow so close why are you going to start over? just a wondering.


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## sheboyganjohn (May 25, 2006)

I started over since I was twisting every which way trying to get the BH in. So tonight I redid the whole thing, measured all the strings and cables and got them back to original length and then retuned. One other thing I did was change the cam setting. It was set to 29.5 which is the F slot. I put it down to 28.5 which is the D slot. This seems to be common for the hoyts so I figured it would carry over to reflex. Here is where I am at now.
ATA about 1/32 long
Tiller with in a hair width (not messing with that)
Draw stop is right on
draw length comes out right at 28.5
BH is still 1/4" long.

I am going to live with it. I have no problem with the BH being long, I just wanted to make sure that I was not missing something.

I will run out tomorrow and see if I can find a bow scale locally to check weight.

Going back a few posts, I have a #6 cam according to the Reflex site.


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## srcarlso (Mar 3, 2005)

*Bh*

Does the string fall between the 2 timing marks on the cam? If not, you could start twisting or un-twisting to get them in the right ballpark. You may find that untwisting the string to get the marks in line will actually bring your BH into spec without messing with DL too much.

Make sure you are measuring draw length correctly as well...sorry if this comes across wrong...have seen guys do this wrong. I surely don't mean to imply you are doing anything wrong...

I just got done setting up a Growler for a guy...came right into spec without issue.


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## sheboyganjohn (May 25, 2006)

The timing mark I find on the cam fall on either side of the limbs. The one on the outside of the limb is just about even with the outside of te limb, so it is between the timing marks, but just barely.

As for draw length I nocked an arrow with an o-ring on it. Adjusted the o-ring and drew back until i got the o-ring to the rear of the berger hole (it lines up with the deepest part of the grip) and then added 1 3/4"

Looking at the bow and the cams I can see only two ways to get the BH in line, that would be to relax the limbs more (let the cables out), but that would change ATA, or to tighten the srtring to rotate the cam in more (which would also center more on the timing marks), but that would shorten draw length. This is of course based on me looking at the bow and how it works, I may be wrong.

I might have time today to get the rest set-up and put the peep in and shoot it. I will try it out the way it is and report back. As I said before I am not worried about getting the BH dead on unless this is something I need to worry about. I get the feeling that ATA and draw length are the important ones.

If I am on the wrong track with anything that I have stated feel free to correct me. I am still new at this stuff and I am basing all my comment of stuff I have learned from others and just looking at the mechanics of the bow.


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## srcarlso (Mar 3, 2005)

*Oops*



sheboyganjohn said:


> The timing mark I find on the cam fall on either side of the limbs. The one on the outside of the limb is just about even with the outside of te limb, so it is between the timing marks, but just barely.
> 
> As for draw length I nocked an arrow with an o-ring on it. Adjusted the o-ring and drew back until i got the o-ring to the rear of the berger hole (it lines up with the deepest part of the grip) and then added 1 3/4"
> 
> ...


Sorry..my bad...meant to say limbs, said string...timing marks should be checked against limb. happy friday!!!

Are you checking BH with the limbs at max poundage?


The other thing...when you set up the cables (control, buss), did you take a few twists, say 8 to 10, out of the string to ensure it was not influencing ATA? If not, do this and set ATA 1/8" long or so with the cables then try bringing the string back in. Make sure this is all done at max poundage on the bow.


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## sheboyganjohn (May 25, 2006)

srcarlso said:


> Sorry..my bad...meant to say limbs, said string...timing marks should be checked against limb. happy friday!!!
> 
> Are you checking BH with the limbs at max poundage?
> 
> ...


Yes I was using max poundage, or all the way in and back 1/4 turn.

No I did not take any twists out of the string. I will redo it today (it is sort of fun playing with the new press so any reason to use it now). I am going to run out and see if I can find a bow scale. I checked yesterday at one store and they did not have on out and with only person working the bow counter this time of year I was not going to stand in line to ask.


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## sheboyganjohn (May 25, 2006)

Well no one by me carries a bow scale. Next time I head into Milwaukee I will take the long way and stop by Cabelas.

Now back to the tuning. I put the bow back in the press and started over with the string backed out. Since the tuning chart on the Relfex website states the bow is 30" draw, I put the draw length up to 30. Turned the poundage all the way up and backed off 1/4 turn. Got the ATA to 1/8 long with the cables. Got the draw stop back into time. Tiller was good. Checked the BH and draw length, both were long. I twisted the string and now the draw length is just about right on and the BH is just at 1/8 long and the ATA is almost right on. Timing marks are split down the middle. Rechecked tiller and draw stops, still good.

I think I am happy now. Time to get everything else set up and start shooting. Need to get it ready as a back-up for the AT Mule Deer hunt at the end of next month.

Thanks to everyone for you help.


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## srcarlso (Mar 3, 2005)

*Sounds like you have it*

Sounds like you have it...are you measuring BH from the grip throat??


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## sheboyganjohn (May 25, 2006)

Yes I am, grip throat to the leading edge of the string is 7 3/8, listed brace height ia 7 1/4, but what is 1/8" among friends :wink: I should have time to get it out and shoot it one moring this week. Now the fun part, getting the dropslide rest to work correctly with the Hoyt style riser. Not much room between the wheel/cable on the rest and the back of the outboard part of the riser. I may end up swapping it with the TT on my Stealth, but that will not be until after bow season.


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