# Need a Hoyt Z3 cam tuning expert



## draw29 (Dec 11, 2004)

if its not broke don't fix it, but my cables were really bad. I put new string,buss and CC on my Katera Xl last night. Strings were perfect per Hoyt tuning charts. I put them on and got ATA real easy and my cam timing was very easyo get. Bow is 50-60# and cranked it to 55#,pulled back and my draw lenght was perfect. Was so easy I couldn't believe it. I'm a converted Mathews man. Today I shot it in a 3d Tourament and I have a small problem and need to fix it. I lost my valley. I have a pic under my thread that shows my timing marks. I am just a little right of dead center between the lines. I pull this bow back now and it drops into a wall, I like to relax at this point. As soon as I relax, the bow wants to go. Before I put on the new strings, it would just nicely set there when I relaxed. I remember on the timing marks with the old strings that I was right on the line on the left side towards the 75% peg stop. I really liked that feel and shot very well that way.
I was thinking about tackling into this tonight and try to do some twisting to get my old feeling.Just don't know where to start so I am starting right here on A.T Right now my Control Cable has no twists in it at all. My BUSS cable has about 8 twists to get the cam sync. String has only a couple twists to get my peep rotation right.
Not understanding the Hoyt system 100% yet, I am not sure how to get a better valley .I can see if i put more twists in the BUSS cable, that would roll my cam towards the left timing mark. The way I see it then, I would have to take twists out of the Control Cable to get my cam sync. There is no twists in the Contol Cable now so i can't take any out. The Control Cable is as long as it will ever be and it is perfectly what the chart says. I also see if I could do that, that would probally make my draw lenght longer. D.L. is perfect now. If i had a longer CC, then I could get my cam sync right then twist the string to get my D.L right. But then I would probally get back to where I was.
I was advised to take out the draw stop peg by a Hoyt shooter but that didn't help much.
Is there any way I can get this valley back. I can't shoot the bow well this way.


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## WDMJR3DBOWGUY (Dec 2, 2003)

I would not advise removing the draw stop. First I would start out by removing the strings and cables and remeasuring them under tension 100lbs or so, if you do not have the ability then make them about 1/8inch shorter than the hoyt specs. Reinstall and have someone check the timing on the cams as you draw the bow, the draw stop should touch the cable at the exact moment the top cam reaches its stoping point. This should get you close, you can adjust by removing or adding a few twist at a time to the control cable and buss cable respectfully. If you play with it you will find the sweet spot.


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## BlueRidge (Dec 12, 2005)

certainly no expert but I'll try to help.

I kind of modified Javi's method and it worked real well on my Kat XL with Z3's.

1. -About 7 twists from string

2. Adjust Buss cable so that Axle to Axle length is about 1/8" long
(Axle to Axle length as spec in Hoyt tune chart for your specific cam)

3. Adjust Control cable until tiller is dead even with limbs bottomed out
(ignore reference holes)

4. Time draw stops
if top cam under rotated: twist Buss AND untwist Control equally
if top cam over rotated: untwist Buss AND twist Control equally

5. Twist string until Axle to Axle is set to tune chart spec for your cam

6. Check tiller and draw stops, may need to adjust with a half twist here or there.


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## draw29 (Dec 11, 2004)

The strings and cables were perfect lenght. the A.T.A was right on. The cam sync is perfect. I guess what I am asking is I want a little more valley. I don't like the bow wanting to release if I let up 1/16th of an inch.
I guess I wouldn't care if the bow wasn't at spec's if I could get a small valley back. I just need to know what to do to get the cam on the left side of the cam timing marks. I think this 1/2" roll in the cam will get me what I am looking for.
With the old strings that were stretched and twisted, I had a very nice valley. I could relax a bit and the string didn't want to tear out of my hand like it does now. I am sure things were not to Hoyt spec's then. I do know the timing of the cam's were right on. I checked on that weekly.


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## PA.JAY (May 26, 2004)

from your picture my mark is close to the line on the right . I had to twist the string to get the 29 D/L only reason I say this is I got good valley this way also. now on my vector cams my mark is were yours is & valley is like your describing any relax & it's going.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

BlueRidge said:


> certainly no expert but I'll try to help.QUOTE]
> 
> Go back and read BlueRidge's reply. Yes, you may have the cams in sync, but not draw stop timed. What it sounds like is one cam is on the verge wanting to "go" and why you don't have the same feel of valley. I'll try to explain. Try drawing. If you feel a "double clutch" feeling when coming to full draw then one cam or the other needs adjusted - Thus Draw Stop Timing. Another ex; Have someone watch or use a drawing board. Draw until bottom draw stop touches string - Hold and look at top cam to see if string is flat in the groove. Test a bit. Let up very carefully to see which comes first, the string for the top cam laying in or the bottom stop touching. Both should "touch" together. Hope this helps.
> 
> Personally, I detest strings that don't come twisted.


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## draw29 (Dec 11, 2004)

I have a draw board and use it. On the Z3 cam there is a stop peg on the bottom cam. On the top cam there is a rubber stopper. It's pretty easy to get them timed together.Compared to the cam & 1/2 on my 38 Pro, it is easier to get the peg on the bottom and the rubber stopper on the top to touch perfectly the same on the string on the Z3 cam set up. On the cam & 1/2, getting it perfectly set in the groove isn't as percise as the Z3.
I had them hitting perfectly,tiller perfect,ATA perfect and Draw lenght was good. I think I need to take things a little out of spec on ATA and BH to get the deeper valley I want. Pa Jay has me on to something. I am going to take twists out of Buss and put some in my CC cable in the morning and see if I can move my bottom cam towards the right timing mark . Hopefully I can get my valley and also get my Draw Lenght. I'll let you know if I succeed. 
Thanks for the input from all. I'm still listening if you have any real good idea's.


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## Slim37KS (Feb 18, 2009)

*Take Off*

Thats what I didnt like about the ones I shot, the Cam 1/2 wasnt as bad, the Z3 was a little to aggressive for my liking.


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## WDMJR3DBOWGUY (Dec 2, 2003)

I just looked at my cams and my control is twisted more than my buss and my cams are rotated around to the position you are indicating you desire. I played with mine to get the desired feel but it is within ata and bh 
specs. Just gotta find that sweet spot.


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## bassman409 (Jul 19, 2006)

It sounds like your top cam is under-rotated and 2 twists in the buss will give you a quick fix. But I am wondering why there are no twists in most of your strings! Do you get a full 60 pounds with the limb bolts tightened all the way?


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## draw29 (Dec 11, 2004)

After I put the new strings & cables on, everything was right on spec. My poundage wasw 61#. That kind of tells me everything was right.I have go I few PM's that guys don't like there Z3 cam's because they are to aggressive.
Dang, I had a great valley with my old worn out strings and cables. I think it was out of spec to get this valley but boy was it shooting. I set a range record with it last week on an indoor 3D course with 18X. I had 5X yesterday.


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## Tribute2007 (Jan 30, 2007)

do you still have your old strings? if so why dont you measure the lengths of them and set your new strings to those lengths. Then see how it feels and see if your close to where your bottom cam was before. 
i know this isnt the right way to do things but if it was shooting good for you then and you can get those results with your new strings at the old lengths then why not go that route.


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

draw29 said:


> After I put the new strings & cables on, everything was right on spec. My poundage wasw 61#. That kind of tells me everything was right.I have go I few PM's that guys don't like there Z3 cam's because they are to aggressive.
> Dang, I had a great valley with my old worn out strings and cables. I think it was out of spec to get this valley but boy was it shooting. I set a range record with it last week on an indoor 3D course with 18X. I had 5X yesterday.


dont worry about that draw stop peg on the bottom cam, time the draw stop where the string is just touching both the rubber thingys on the cams together. The Z3 cams do have a solid wall but you cant creep, thats with any cam, you need some back tension, thats why creep tuning is the final touch to cam timing. One thing to check and make sure is that the draw board is pulling straight, if not you can get a false reading, one way to check is have someone look at your cams while you draw the bow back (with arrow) also, see what they see vs what you see on the draw board. I dont even care if my pegs are in my cams, and some even take the rubber stoppers out of the cams. I love the Z3 cams on my kat XL and on the Kat i had.

can you verify where your specs are now, poundage, ata, bh. i think just one cam is off just a tad and giving you that feeling you described


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## draw29 (Dec 11, 2004)

I have tried this and that and have finally cam up with something. 1st i can get the valley i want bye putting some twists in the CC and Buss. If I twist it to get near the left timing line in my pic above, I have a nice valley there. Then my draw lenght is to long. Then I have to put twists in the string to get my draw lenght right. Then i go right back to where I was. Looks like I could put it back to the valley and to fix the long draw lenght is to maybe put a spacer in the back part of my grip.Might try that tomorrow.
I have the 4.5 cam on for 29". I was thinking maybe I could go with the 4.0 cam at 28.5" and twist to my valley and the draw lenght might be pretty close. I see in the charts that the strings and cables are the same for both cams.
probally should go with a cam & 1/2 plus system and then I have lots of options.


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

after you did all this have you checked poundage??


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## draw29 (Dec 11, 2004)

59# and its holding great and shooting great. Give me back my Mathews. But the Hoyt is a butt kicker.:darkbeer::darkbeer:


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