# Bad Arrow flight out of my recurve. PLEASE HELP!



## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

Yes, .300 spine arrows are way too stiff.


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## traviscain38 (Dec 6, 2007)

I was shooting a 35/55 arrow but penetration sucked. I was shooting a sharp head. So what do I need to shoot in the carbon lineup. Thanks


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

A lot is going to be determined by your DL (final draw weight) and the design of the riser (how much before center-cut). I would guess that a .500 spine will find its way in the mix -depending on how much point weight you end up using. You could start with some Beman 500s - they are heavy, heavy as 500 spine arrows go. MFX Classics are a little heavier.

As for penetration. Not sure as to what to do about that, or even how to measure.


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## trapperDave (Mar 12, 2005)

way way way stiff.

get a .500 spine, add 50 gr brass inserts to up the wgt and foc, youll be hittin like bricks and stickin in the dirt on the other side


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Travis --

re: the "penetration" thing, is it just possible that your arrows were so stiff and so poorly tuned that "hit like a truck" was more a kin to train wreck, or possibly, just a bad shot?

Suggestions 1. Get arrows that are more closely matched to the bow. 2. Tune them for the best flight possible - if you're getting lousy flight, they ain't tuned. 

Please remember that 1. An arrow should have no impact on an animal, it cuts, not punches. 2. If you hit a big enough bone, there's nothing you're going to do to a given bow that will make enough difference to matter one bit. 

Viper1 out.


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

Viper1 said:


> 2. If you hit a big enough bone, there's nothing you're going to do to a given bow that will make enough difference to matter one bit.
> 
> Viper1 out.


Yes, and why shoot the big bones anyways less you're aiming badly.


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

Poor arrow flight does more to rob an arrow's penetrating potential than any other one thing, IMO.

In most typical cases...an arrow with a good sharp COC broadhead should not have any problem penetrating a deer...especially if it is well tuned to the archer and his bow.

Now if you are hunting larger, tougher animals...you may need to take into account other aspects of an arrow's characteristics to maximize it's penetrating potential.

Ray :shade:


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## traviscain38 (Dec 6, 2007)

The 35/55 arrows I shot flew good but the penetration was not good. I said I wanted somthin that would hit like a truck, thats why I switched. I have been shooting traditional gear for a while, im not a begginer. I dont claim to be the best shot, im just and average bowhunter. So I dont think I need to be talked to like Im stupid. I just want help from fellow archers.


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## traviscain38 (Dec 6, 2007)

I dont want to be put down here. I dont aim, i dont shoot a gap system or anything. I concentrate on the spot I want to hit. I shoot split fingure both eyes open, "instinctive". Some times you miss a little where you want to hit, Im not perfect. I guess you two are. I asked for help not to be put down.


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## traviscain38 (Dec 6, 2007)

trapperDave said:


> way way way stiff.
> 
> get a .500 spine, add 50 gr brass inserts to up the wgt and foc, youll be hittin like bricks and stickin in the dirt on the other side


Thanks for the good info.


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## traviscain38 (Dec 6, 2007)

Im just new to the Carbons with a recurve. I have always shot wood arrows. I just dont know tha much about tunning carbon for the recurve.


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## westksbowhunter (Sep 23, 2002)

You state that you shot 35/55 but not how you had them set up as far as inserts or point weight. What grain broadhead or field point and what insert? Thats whats nice about the brass inserts, you can change the weight of them to increase penetration. 15 grains gpi is a little extreme. Most like them 9-11. Also what is your draw length?


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

traviscain38 said:


> The 35/55 arrows I shot flew good but the penetration was not good.


How did you tune them? Did you bareshaft tune them? What's your definition of poor penetration? Please explain the exact situation where you came to the conclusion about your old arrows.



traviscain38 said:


> I said I wanted somthin that would hit like a truck, thats why I switched.


If you're looking for a heavy arrow, you can always shoot real heavy points with heavy adapters with an arrow spine stiff enough to properly handle a high FOC with your draw weight and draw length.



traviscain38 said:


> I have been shooting traditional gear for a while, im not a begginer.


Most of us here don't know much about you so it would be nice if you shared some of your archery history with us. How long have you been shooting trad? 



traviscain38 said:


> I dont claim to be the best shot, im just and average bowhunter.


Much like most of us here.



traviscain38 said:


> So I dont think I need to be talked to like Im stupid. I just want help from fellow archers.


We are fellow archers trying to help you. I'm sorry if you felt like I or a few others were talking down to you. It surely wasn't my intensions. I'm just trying to help you out to the best of my ability and share with you what I have learned.

Ray :shade:


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## traviscain38 (Dec 6, 2007)

BLACK WOLF said:


> How did you tune them? Did you bareshaft tune them? What's your definition of poor penetration? Please explain the exact situation where you came to the conclusion about your old arrows.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks for the info. I was'nt saying what I said toward you though. I have been shooting traditional equipment for about 9 years i guess. I have also hunted with a compound to. I have just this year put the compound down and gonna just shoot my recurve. I was thinkin about switching to a goldtip traditional 55/75 with maybe a brass insert and a fairly heavy head. What so you think about that. Thanks a lot, Travis.


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

At the risk of peeing you off again, no, I would not go with the 55/75s. For your bow, those would be fine if you were shooting 70# or more. If you could centershot, which you cannot with that bow, you might could cheat the lower end.

I would take advice already asked for and given.


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

traviscain38 said:


> I was thinkin about switching to a goldtip traditional 55/75 with maybe a brass insert and a fairly heavy head. What so you think about that. Thanks a lot, Travis.


Sounds fine...IF you can get the right weight and length to bareshaft tune properly from your bow.

Try and foot them with a small piece of aluminum arrow to make them nearly indestructable...and if you really want to take advantage of making your choice in arrows improve their penetrating potential...get really skinny carbons like Easton Axis arrows.

Ray Cook :shade:


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## Statedriller (Apr 5, 2007)

They also make weight tubes that fit in the carbon arrows to increase overall weight....


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## traviscain38 (Dec 6, 2007)

Sanford said:


> At the risk of peeing you off again, no, I would not go with the 55/75s. For your bow, those would be fine if you were shooting 70# or more. If you could centershot, which you cannot with that bow, you might could cheat the lower end.
> 
> I would take advice already asked for and given.



Well what exactly would you shoot out of the bow. My draw is 27 1/2 in.


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## traviscain38 (Dec 6, 2007)

Thanks for all the good info guys keep it comin.


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

traviscain38 said:


> Well what exactly would you shoot out of the bow. My draw is 27 1/2 in.


Same as I suggested in my previous post. A 500 spine. Given your DL, I would definitely not go any stiffer.


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

traviscain38 said:


> Well what exactly would you shoot out of the bow. My draw is 27 1/2 in.


Check out this website

http://www.heilakka.com/stumiller/

Ray :shade:


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## westksbowhunter (Sep 23, 2002)

I would think the 35/55 with a 100 grain brass insert and 145 grain tip would give you plenty of punch. Depending on how you had your arrows fletched, a wrap, and cut 29 inches would put you close to 525 grains. If that doesn't give you penetration you want, then you have other tuning issues.


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

Sanford said:


> Same as I suggested in my previous post. A 500 spine. Given your DL, I would definitely not go any stiffer.


Disregard my above reply. Come to think, westksbowhunter is right. Your arrows are already tuned and not much different in gpi than my suggestions and are 500 spine. No need to buy new arrows. Use the 35/55s and weight up if you want more.


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## sawtoothscream (Apr 19, 2008)

play around with the stu miller spine chart. your arrow is deffinatly to stiff. the spine charts pretty cool. you put in what your bows rated at (50# at 28 or what ever) then put in your actual draw length, then wha tthe shelf it cut to and it gives you a close estimate of what spine you need. then you can go to the arrow thing above and select a saft and play around with the front weights ect until the spine is close to what you need and it will tell you total weight and foc.

i used that before ordering my arrows but im having the arrows cut 1 inch longer and only a few cut the way i made them on the spine chart just in case it shoots better there.

worth messing around with


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## trapperDave (Mar 12, 2005)

the problem with the calculator is it doesnt take into account youre release, how clean it is or isnt, static or not, bracehgt etc. its a starting point at best, IMO


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

trapperDave said:


> the problem with the calculator is it doesnt take into account youre release, how clean it is or isnt, static or not, bracehgt etc. its a starting point at best, IMO


I agree. Just about any chart or calculator for arrow spine should be used as a starting point. Some like Stu Miller's are just better than others because they take more aspects into account.

I don't believe anyone believes it's an absolute answer to determining the exact spine for an individual archer and his bow.

Ray :shade:


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