# yoke tuning question what is the right way?



## ArcherXXX300 (Apr 22, 2013)

I would say ideally....you want zero cam lean at full draw. But I don't have a draw board, so I just yoke tune to get a good tear through paper.


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## NCBowhuntn93 (Sep 6, 2013)

I gotcha. what would it mean if im getting a perfect tear but my cam lean is slanting hard like this \ ?


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## ArcherXXX300 (Apr 22, 2013)

Is it leaning like that at full draw or static? What bow and cam also? How is center shot set? What tear were you getting before yoke tuning?


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## NCBowhuntn93 (Sep 6, 2013)

yes it is leaning hard like \ at full draw and center shot is 13/16 solo cam. and left tear.


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## ArcherXXX300 (Apr 22, 2013)

Mathews? What poundage and shaft/spine/point weight/arrow length? Draw length? Arrow selection has a lot to do with it, I'm just guessing here I've no clue what you've got going on. Bad form and torqueing the bow, inconsistent release etc can all cause false bad paper tears. I'd say go to a good pro shop if there is one around.


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## NCBowhuntn93 (Sep 6, 2013)

Mission Venture 
draw weight:64 
Draw length:28
Arrow length:28
Arrow:maxima blue streak 350
Feildpoint/Broadhead: 100 grain


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## ArcherXXX300 (Apr 22, 2013)

I would say as long as the bow tunes and groups you'll be ok. When in doubt head to the pro shop. I think your arrows may be a bit stiff, see if you can try a 400 spine or a maxima 250. You're border line between shooting a 250 or a 350 Maxima at 64lbs and that length. I'd also say have someone else shoot it through paper, it may be you. DL can also effect the paper tear as well. Also I start paper tuning at point blank range (maybe 3 feet from the paper). I also use a bareshaft to shoot through paper as I find it easier to see the point entry and the tear more clearly without fletching tearing everywhere. You may have fletching contact that is being compensated for by your yoke tuning as well. Don't get too hung up on paper tuning as the end all. Hope I helped some.


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## NCBowhuntn93 (Sep 6, 2013)

I will try all of this. I might just change my draw weight to 70 pounds also. Thank you for your help its greatly appreciated.


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

you can have a static setting but you do have to shoot the bow to actually tune the yolks.... start with paper if you like, but bareshaft vs fletched or fletched vs broadheads will finalize tuning


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## richl35 (May 15, 2013)

NCBowhuntn93 said:


> I gotcha. what would it mean if im getting a perfect tear but my cam lean is slanting hard like this \ ?


This means that some other spec is out and you're compensating for it with idler lean. Your idler pulley should be within a twist of perfectly vertical at full draw. Also, don't get caught up on your center shot measurement. That's just a starting place to adjust from. You want to get your idol lean back to zero and then adjust your rest in extremely small increments your rest until you eliminate as much of the tear as possible. And then fine tune it with your yolk cables from there. When you get your idler lean back to 0 at full draw measure your ata and your tiller length to make sure they are in spec. If not, get them in spec first.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4


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## Bucks (Jul 27, 2005)

"\"???... it should only lean in that direction with a left handed bow. for RH, the right yoke should be shorter than the left. 

for a solocam, I can only speak for the older Mathews where the starting point was to lay an arrow on the idler wheel and the arrow point would be about 1/8" towards the center of the riser at the nock point. I would put 12 twists in the right yoke, and 9 in the left.

if nothing else, put some lipstick on the vanes and look for contact on the riser / rest.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

If a static yoke, I try to straighten the wheel of cam to something decent. May not be perfect, but better than it was. I eyeball center shot and go with Modified French tuning. As for shooting through paper, I only do it for bows that don't behave just to see what's going on.

Yoke tuning, never had to do it. What's to tune if you have a floating yoke, nothing but the arrow rest and we did it for years and years. Hoyt never went with a static yoke recent just 3 or so years ago. Pearson had the floating yoke for a good while.

My Martin Shadowcats and Pearsons don't even have yokes. All 3 of my Shadowcats had cam lean top and bottom. Sold my last Shadowcat and the new owner is ready to turn Pro, it shoots that good. My MarXman has cam lean top and bottom and had me in the place/win column all this year at club 3Ds and the one ASA Qualifier I shot.

My Pearson TX4 has cam lean, no yokes. Threw it together and the next day hitting bull's eyes 65 yards down range.


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## richl35 (May 15, 2013)

When you say cam lean do you mean the top idler or the bottom cam? The Venture is a solo cam right?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

A hard \ lean on the top cam or idler at brace could also be compensation for a long DL. Try shortening your release and loop a bit and see if that doesn't make a difference. Not sure how easy it is to change the Venture DL but you may try 1/2" shorter if you don't have an adjustable release.


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## NCBowhuntn93 (Sep 6, 2013)

I got all the specs to where they were suppose to be and put 12 twist on the right cable and 9 on the left. I shot bareshaft through paper and got about a 3 inch tear point on the right nock on the left. move rest all the way over to the right just to see what would happin and got the same tear but it was about 2 inchs long this time. im confused.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

NCBowhuntn93 said:


> I got all the specs to where they were suppose to be and put 12 twist on the right cable and 9 on the left. I shot bareshaft through paper and got about a 3 inch tear point on the right nock on the left. move rest all the way over to the right just to see what would happin and got the same tear but it was about 2 inchs long this time. im confused.


Hello NCBowhuntn93:

Let's go step by step.

So,
we START,
and pretend we have a brand new bow, straight out of the box.

So,
I like to duct tape a 2nd arrow TIGHT to your riser.

Then,
move your drop away arrow rest ARM
to the FULL UP position.

LOAD an arrow,
and then,
loosen the sideways lock down bolt.

MOVE the arrow rest sideways,
until BOTH arrows are dead parallel.

This is the STARTING point. We will fine tune later.

Set your cam on your foot
and look straight down,
and move the arrow rest SIDEWAYS until both arrows
look like RAILROAD tracks.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

NCBowhuntn93 said:


> I got all the specs to where they were suppose to be and put 12 twist on the right cable and 9 on the left. I shot bareshaft through paper and got about a 3 inch tear point on the right nock on the left. move rest all the way over to the right just to see what would happin and got the same tear but it was about 2 inchs long this time. im confused.


STEP 2:

Move the arrow rest up or down,
until the MIDDLE of your arrow shaft
is ROUGHLY at the same height as your arrow rest MOUNTING BOLT.

This is a ROUGH starting point,
and we will fine tune LATER.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

NCBowhuntn93 said:


> I got all the specs to where they were suppose to be and put 12 twist on the right cable and 9 on the left. I shot bareshaft through paper and got about a 3 inch tear point on the right nock on the left. move rest all the way over to the right just to see what would happin and got the same tear but it was about 2 inchs long this time. im confused.


STEP 3:

Now,
we tweak the d-loop.

LOTS of folks set the nock slightly HIGH.

I prefer to set the nock so that your arrow is DEAD LEVEL,
when your bow riser is vertical.

SET your d-loop position,
where-ever you like,
and NEVER TOUCH IT AGAIN.

All further tuning will be with the string or cables or arrow rest.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

NCBowhuntn93 said:


> I got all the specs to where they were suppose to be and put 12 twist on the right cable and 9 on the left. I shot bareshaft through paper and got about a 3 inch tear point on the right nock on the left. move rest all the way over to the right just to see what would happin and got the same tear but it was about 2 inchs long this time. im confused.


STEP 4:

Now,
we go to your draw board,
and get your bow to full draw.

Tweak the yoke legs
until you have ZERO cam lean,
when at FULL DRAW.

This is just a starting point for tuning,
and will be TWEAKED...a little bit,
LATER,
when you shoot groups at the practice range.

ZERO LEAN at full draw,
is a good starting point....BEFORE you fire the first arrow.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

NCBowhuntn93 said:


> I got all the specs to where they were suppose to be and put 12 twist on the right cable and 9 on the left. I shot bareshaft through paper and got about a 3 inch tear point on the right nock on the left. move rest all the way over to the right just to see what would happin and got the same tear but it was about 2 inchs long this time. im confused.


STEP 5:

*THIS IS THE TUNING STEP you are missing.*

Huntinsker has it EXACTLY correct.

AT this stage,
we need to check your draw length....

*using my 5 FOOT draw length test.*


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

STEP 5:

Portable target OFF the ground,
in fact...

portable target where the MIDDLE of your target
is at YOUR shoulder height.






So,
we set up at 5 FEET,
just 60-INCHES away from the target.

Pin a string with a weight on the end of the string,
and fire a FLETCHED arrow at the string.

DO NOT TOUCH YOUR ARROW REST.

ONLY move the sight pins WINDAGE setting,
sideways,
until you can SPLIT the string fibers
just 5 FEET away.

This way,
I know you can HIT what you are aiming at,
just 5 fEET away.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

STEP 6:

Now,
for the HARD PART.

This draw length TEST...

will help you dial in your draw length down to the 1/4-inch.

NO more pictures.
NO need for a "how's my form" thread.

IF your draw length is correct,
then...

you CAN get a bareshaft and a fletched arrow
to have the SAME EXACT point of impact (sideways)
at just 5 FEET.









Soooo,
if your draw length is just PLAIN TOO LONG,

then,
your bareshaft will miss to the RIGHT of the weighted string,
only 5 FEET away.

NO adjustments to your arrow rest.
NO tweaking the yoke legs.

ONLY make adjustments to the DL modules (SHORTER)
ONLY make adjustments to the SIZE of your fixed draw length cam (SHORTER cam)
ONLY make adjustments to the bowstring (ADD twists to both ends).


IF your bareshaft misses to the RIGHT of the weighted string,
IF you are right handed...

then,
go SHORTER and SHORTER and SHORTER on the draw length,
until you can get a bareshaft to NAIL a weighted string, just 60-INCHES away.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

If you need help,
just send me a pm,
and I can walk you through the steps.


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## NCBowhuntn93 (Sep 6, 2013)

Sorry I haven't been able to reply yall iv been busy this week but thanks so much for all the help! I was messing with my bow today when I got the chance and yall said shorting draw length because my elbow was behind my head. So I looked at my self in the mirror and realized my form was bad so I straightend it up and shot through some paper. I got really good results I am goin to start walk back tunning this weekend. I want to take a picture of my idler wheel and see what yall think its still leaning pretty hard like this (\). And my center shot isn't really near 13/16 I don't know exact measurement. But its to far in hunting season and im just gunna do with what I got for right now because I want to go huntin!!!! Again thanks everybody for the help especially Nuts&Bolts your the man.


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## mvortex (Sep 6, 2012)

I also have a Mission Venture 28" 65lbs. My bareshafts are hitting 6" right at 20 yds. I'm going to start with the suggestions in this thread.


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## C. Miller (Nov 9, 2007)

Do you mind explaining why a long DL would cause this?


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

C. Miller said:


> Do you mind explaining why a long DL would cause this?


It has to do with the alignment of your release arm and the arrow. If your DL is too long, your release elbow will rotate behind your head and pull the string sideways. This sideways pressure will cause the nock end of the arrow to travel in the direction that it's being pulled. For a righty, a long DL will pull the nock to the left causing a left tear in paper and for a lefty it would be a right pull/tear. 

So, ideally you'll have your release forearm in a straight line with the arrow so that your string/arrow does not have to fight any lateral force and can travel in a much straighter path.


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## C. Miller (Nov 9, 2007)

Huntinsker said:


> It has to do with the alignment of your release arm and the arrow. If your DL is too long, your release elbow will rotate behind your head and pull the string sideways. This sideways pressure will cause the nock end of the arrow to travel in the direction that it's being pulled. For a righty, a long DL will pull the nock to the left causing a left tear in paper and for a lefty it would be a right pull/tear.
> 
> So, ideally you'll have your release forearm in a straight line with the arrow so that your string/arrow does not have to fight any lateral force and can travel in a much straighter path.


Makes sense. Thanks


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