# Jennings Model T-star and T-star XL shooters



## Manhunter50 (Oct 23, 2006)

*Used to...*

...shoot them, that is. Shot some of my very best NFAA field scores with a Jennings T-Star. Loved that bow! It wasn't fast, but it was one of the most forgiving and most shootable bows I ever had in my hand; never felt like I was fighting it. Got any pictures of your rebuilds? I'd like to see 'em.


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## JohnR (Apr 5, 2007)

*Best bow made ever!!!*



As you see in the pictures, I have 4 Jennings...2-T-stars and 2 T-star XL. 
The T-star XL's have the original limbs (blue bows)
I have hoyt pro wheels on the T-stars and hoyt Acu-Wheels on the XL's, which I could find more Pro-Wheels. Any ideas? 
I use PGE springies with Martin micro adjusters.
The Pylons are PSE..long drop downs to get them near the center of the bow.
Homemade BCY450 strings and cables.
Home made eccentric clicker.
Limb savers on each limb.
Each bow has its own stabilizer with a limb saver for the tuning.
Two are tuned for indoors and 2 for outdoors. 
Yep, I stringwalk...can't imagine shooting anyother way!:wink:

Unfortunately nothing on the bow is manufactured any more.


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## Manhunter50 (Oct 23, 2006)

*That's dedication...*

I can't imagine putting that much time and effort into buying bows like that, locating the parts, and keeping them maintained. I admire your dedication.

There are a couple of bows that I used to shoot that I might have put that kind of effort into, including my old red T-Star. I had an Oneida T-1000 (a fancy Screaming Eagle) that felt like it was a part of me. On shots under 30 yards, I could walk my arrows around the X-ring with that bow and it's the only one I ever shot perfect scores with. Why I gave it up is a long story. Likewise, I had an Oregon Columbia, 50 lbs., 46 inches axle-to-axle that won me several state championships in the late 80s and early 90s. Until Oregon went out of business for good in '94, I thought I'd never own another bow.

I have to say though, I am developing the same kind of affinity for my Apexes. When they first came out, I thought about buying one, but couldn't see spending that kind of money on a bow - even though I could afford it. After some lengthy inquiries and testimony from fellow finger shooters, a few months ago, I bought one and knew - literally from the first arrow I shot - that I would shoot it very well. I now own two.

All the best,

Randy


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## JohnR (Apr 5, 2007)

*Jennings Bows*

I enjoy archery, so it makes it worth it. I am not anamored by speed...these bows shoot 225-235 fps...and I can easily reach the 80 yard field target and the 20 yard indoor blue face....what else do I need.??? 

And I do it accurately...ie: 498 Field, 485 Hunter, 298 NFAA indoor Blue Face, 289 Vegas, 810--900 American...Barebow!

I've assembled and reassembled these bows so often, I think I can do it asleep. My only frustration is finding Hoyt Pro-Wheels. 

As you pointed out several times this model Jennings was easy to shoot and accurately.

Thanks for you input.


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## Bootch (Jan 16, 2007)

*Eccentric clicker*

John how is that eccentric clicker set up??


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## JohnR (Apr 5, 2007)

*BAREBOW Eccentric Clicker*

This clicker is mounted on the bottom limb, A nut and screw are mounter in the eccentric opposite the axel as the essentric rotates around it trips the trigger wire.

This Clicker was a Featured article in Archery Focus, Volume 10, Number 6 (Yellow Bullseye on cover). My article would not down load into this chat site.

Let me know who you are and i'll e-mail you a copy of my article and instructions.

Here is a simple clicker that attaches to a bottom* compound bow limb and activated by a trip mechanism attached to the eccentric. I first saw it in use at the 1988 NFAA Nationals in Darrington, WA. I have been using it of-and-on ever sense. The nice part is that it out of the arrows path, in the sight window, and can be “shoot trough” if necessary without affecting arrow flight. *BB equipment rules require that the clicker not extend above the diameter of the arrow…This has been interpreted to include the cable pylon and top limb.

The base may be made of brass, tin, copper, or aluminum about 0.035-0.045 inches thick. The template may be bent to accommodate left or right mounting. Bend the base on the dotted lines. It uses a coil spring (0.035-0.045 inch diameter) as the clicking mechanism. (A wire is too easily bent out of alignment.) You can usually get two wires from one spring.

The spring is partially stretched to a wire. The spring is attached with a small screw, lock washer and nut. I have begun attaching a bead to the end of the wire, after finding the correct position, to provide a rounded end to contact the tripping mechanism.

I follow the “Barebow Trilogy” [See http://www.stringwalker.net/bbf.htm] for setting the clicker for average distance and eccentric rotation into the valley.

The part that will take some creative effort on your part is how to attach the eccentric’s tripping mechanism.
If the eccentric has two axel holes, use the unused hole. The Hoyt Accu-wheel has many holes used for draw length adjustment. You may have to create your own eccentric hole. The best positioning is opposite the axel hole.

Attach clicker base to bow limb with outdoor use double backed foam tape.

The ledge, closest to the eccentric, needs to be notched to accommodate the wire. In this location it is cocked and ready for use. As the eccentric rotates the trip mechanism pushes the wire off the ledge. The wire makes contact with the base’s outer ledge and ‘clicks’.

Attached are photos of this clicker…I hope they fill in the gap from the text.


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## Bootch (Jan 16, 2007)

*Clicker*

Thanks for the "how to" John, I see from the photos that the last 2 shots show the clicker in the loaded position, clever idea. I will fiddle with making one and let you know the result. I sent you a private message some time ago - see the top right corner of the AT home page please ignore this
Paul B
Sydney Australia


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## jhart75609 (Nov 8, 2005)

I had a Jennings many many years ago. I shot it barebow, seems that it was a Split Limb T?? Does that sound correct to any one? I believe it was about 25 years ago. Killed my first deer with that bow!

It was a good one!


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## JohnR (Apr 5, 2007)

*Split limb T*



jhart75609 said:


> I had a Jennings many many years ago. I shot it barebow, seems that it was a Split Limb T?? Does that sound correct to any one? I believe it was about 25 years ago. Killed my first deer with that bow!
> 
> It was a good one!



 YEP, all the jennings shown in the photo have split limbs.


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## CWW (Jun 30, 2004)

Great looking bows John!......Craig


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## SOLIDEAGLE (Dec 19, 2005)

Wow!! I love those old bows. I just bought an Aspen and I think it's the best bow I have ever shot.


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## jhart75609 (Nov 8, 2005)

JohnR...I realize all the bows pictured have split limbs. That was a huge improvement over having the cams on "hangers". It seemed mine wasn't called a T-Star, but the name of the bow was actually "Split limb T". I could be wrong, and it has been a good many years ago tough. It might have been a T-star, and I remember it wrong.


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