# Help shooting traditional sore fingers



## Elk Chaser (Dec 9, 2005)

I have a question, I finally have moved back to a BIG 10 yards and am shooting in the basement, problem is my fingers are wearing out.man they are sore after 60-70 arrows.
So I shot another 40 using a release, will this screw me up in the long run.
I am shooting instinctive with a 40# Martin Lynx I love shooting it and cannot get enough, 
Any suggestions??
Thanks


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## Feral Donkey (Nov 6, 2005)

Are you using a glove or are you just going bare fingers? Some guys like the Damascus glove and I've learned to like the Neet tab. Tab took a little more getting used to for me but it really helped with finger abuse. They're cheap. Buy or borrow one of each and find out what works for you.


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## Savannahman (Nov 6, 2005)

I had the same problem when frist started shooting. I was shooting a tab. Then I bought a cordavan tab hurt worse then before. Then I found my old ben pearson glove that I started shooting my compound many years before. The pain went away. Since then I bought a glove with cordavan overlays. It was like 15 bucks from cabelas. It is styled atfer the one Howard Hill shot. I like it. I can shoot bare fingers for a few shots then my 60Lber gets the best of me. Now a tab feels funny. just my .02. Elk chaser did you find TRAD Gang???


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## ejoe2 (Oct 6, 2005)

I used to kill my fingers when I held the string for any time. Used to wrap my lower finger in a couple bandaids as the ring finger seemed to hurt the most. I found by evening the string pressure over all the fingers rather than putting most of it on the lower finger the pain was less. I totally got rid of it when I switched to more of a snap shooting style.
We are almost neighbors elk chaser.....Im in palos park.


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## Feral Donkey (Nov 6, 2005)

Elk chaser, you got a PM.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Elk -

To some degree sore fingers go with the territory, even for the old timers. After a while a callus will build up, and that will help - somewhat.

As we can't see you from here, let's go over the basics. 

You are using a tab or glove, right? Which one?

*
Your are using a deep hook? Meaning when you draw the bow, the string is in the first joint (from the tip) if the drawing fingers, or slightly deeper, right? *

It may sound counter intuitive, but that deep hook will give you the cleanest release and be the most protective to your fingers.

Sorry to tell ya this, but if they're blistering, you need to lay off and let them heal, yeah I know it's addictive, but you can't become Robinhood over night.

How's that Lynx working for you, _BTW, DId I mention I HATE YOU!!!_!  

Viper1 out.


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## Farley (Aug 1, 2005)

Hey Viper, you're right it does sound counter intuitive. I think most of us got our wrists slapped for shooting like that. How does it help? With the thinking we have been tought, trying to dislodge the string from joint groove would be harder to do smoothly. Is it an accuired art or just few shots away?
Cheers


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Farley -



The deep hook, and generally the deeper the better isn't really not a debatable option, not amongst any of the top shooters any way. (Well, there may be an exception, but I haven't heard of him.) 

First, the deep hook is stronger than a finger tip grip, by a long way.

Second, the stronger grip allows the rest of the drawing hand to be much more relaxed, and so does give a smoother, and yes faster release. Also a more reproducable one. Any tension in the release hand or wrist is wasted energy at best, and usually slows down the openning of the fingers.

Third, the finger tip grip causes much more of a ballooning effect of the finger tips, which gives the string some thing to jump over on hte release.

Because of the increased tension of the finger tip grip, it can also exacerbate wear and tear on the forearm tendons - not a good thing.

Viper1 out.


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## Farley (Aug 1, 2005)

Thanks Viper.

BTW
That was a question, not a debate!


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Farley -

 

Sorry, copied that from something I posted on another forum, shudda edited it better. 

BTW - if you're used to shooting off the finger tips, getting used to a deep grip will NOT seem "right" or natural at first. It may feel downright strange, but once you get used to it, you'll see why it's the only way to go.

Viper1 out.


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## J. Wesbrock (Dec 17, 2003)

There's no doubt about it, a deep hook is much better than holding on your fingertips. Thanks, Viper. You saved me a bunch of typing. :thumbs_up 

One thing I've noticed over the years is that thin tabs seem to give me sore fingers, while a thicker tab (like the PSE King tab) allows me to shoot as long as I like without having any finger problems. The PSE King tab it two pieces of leather with a thin layer of rubber sandwiched in the middle. That layer of rubber seems to really make the difference for me.


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## Farley (Aug 1, 2005)

I have to addmit, this is the first time I have heard of such a deep grip and yet there are already two who have popped up using it. So my next question is, why do coaches say it's a no no and yet as Viper says, alot of top shooters use it? Is it something to try once you know your way around a bow or is difficult to get people using it properly in the early stages? Gotta try it Thurs night.


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## strcpy (Dec 13, 2003)

Farley said:


> So my next question is, why do coaches say it's a no no and yet as Viper says, alot of top shooters use it?


I don't know, anyone I've ever talked too said to grip in the first joint of the finger. That is pretty standard in the FITA and olympic shooting styles and the compounders I know do the same.

Maybe it's an older type of thinking vs a newer, maybe it's an individual that you have been learning from used something different and teaches it. Some of the "older" archers may know the answer.

For me, it was the natural and comfortable thing to do. Though having caught that hand in a belt sander in high school makes me somewhat different. I will never form callouses - too much scar tissue. I require the stiffest material possible or the tissue swells and is painful - a deep hook solves most of it and a good hard or thick tab/glove the rest.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

J, et al -

I alwayed believed in "thicker" is better when it came to tabs. Heck, before the Archery Mitt came out I used to shoot with a tab over a glove. Even had the guys who invented the Mitt make me a custom 3 layer version (OK, THAT was overkill). Even my Cavilier Elite tab has three layers. Now, here's the weird part, my current tab is a Win&Win 360, it's nowhere near as thick as any of the above, and so far, it's the only tab I didn't have to re-inforce (which is good because its construction doesn't lend itself to adding additional layers). Only reason I can think of, is that it fits my small hand so well, that it really lets me bury the string deeper in the first joint. Can't say it'll work for everyone, but sure saved me a lot of headaches, but I stil use the Mitt for some of my heavier bows .

BTW - Here's a trick for you guys who shoot in colder climates. If you have trouble with your fingers cracking (like I do), get a roll of J&J clear adhesive tape and wrap a layer or two around the shooting fingers, just past the first joint. Really cuts down on the cracking for the last few years. Less cracking = more shooting.

Viper1 out.


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## Farley (Aug 1, 2005)

Not that I'm FITA material or anything, but if it works for them...........

Cheers


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Farley -

It may be a FITA thing, but it's just as important when using heavy hunting bows, especially in cold weather. 

Viper1 out.


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## Elk Chaser (Dec 9, 2005)

*Thanks*

As usual I got a lot of great suggestions,
Viper 1 BTW I hate you ?

It doesn't take long for me to get on peoples nerves.
Thanks again to all of you.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Elk -

As we've discussed, that Lynx is basically a factory Warf bow, without the FITA limbs. I've got a #60 and a #74, and are super shooters. (Even tried to convince Larry Hatfield to bring it back - no dice.) So I'm just a little jealous you got a #40'er. 

BTW - Don't be surprised if it's really about #45 @28, they ran high.

Viper1 out.


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## Ron Biel (Apr 4, 2005)

*Help*

Stop by the Joliet Archery Club some Saturday morning and there are a bunch of us trad shooters that will help you!

www.jolietarcheryclub.com


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## Elk Chaser (Dec 9, 2005)

*Viper 1*

Thanks thought I might have gotten you upset!!!!!!:embara: :embara: 
I appreciate all of the help you have given me.
It is a great little bow.
Thanks for telling me about it


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## itbeso (Jul 6, 2005)

*sore fingers*

Elk, You didn't say where your fingers were getting sore. If it is on the fingertips, then I would suggest that you get a tab that has is a little longer so it has more "wrap" around the string. This will prevent the string from coming into contact with the last part of your fingertips at release. In my experience with tabs I have found that the softer the better for me. I use a two ply hair tab(neet) that is very pliable. I have found that the thicker and stiffer the tab, the more my arrows want to group left. Also there seems to be a longer breakin period on stiff tabs, in my opinion. Try this little experiment, shoot a good broken in stiff tab then shoot the same tab in a new model.My experience is that the new stiff tab will shoot me left. That same experiment with a soft pliable tab has always produced the same grouping impact point. My favorite personal piece of advice to fellow finger shooters is this; Most finger shooters place their fingers on the string at a 90 degree angle to the string. When they draw the bow, they put a heck of a twist on the string as they bring the bow to full draw and come to anchor. Pull your bow facing into a mirror and you will get a good picture of this. I teach placing your fingers on the string on a downward angle with the main joint of the finger slightly elevated. This serves two purposes for me. One, your hand is already angled, so that as you draw and anchor you put a lot less torque on the string. Also I have found that by doing this my hand seems to be more comfortable on my face during my anchor.. For me, this angled grip also seems to produce a better release.I also agree with all the previos posters who advocate the deep grip on the string. I feel you get a much smoother and cleaner release. These are just my experiences, hope fully you find the solution to the sore finger problem. good luck


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## DwayneR (Feb 23, 2004)

One added thing.

If your fingers are getting sore, do NOT buy a Damascus Glove. These gloves are a thin glove. You will need a little more padding than what these gloves have.

I usually shoot a Cavaliar<sp> Tab. LItte expensive, but I love them. They are thicker leather (2 plys).

I do not use the finger separator, and I also do not use the chin rest. I turn the chin rest 180 degrees and shove it down level with the alum frame.


Dwayne


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## Lefty Jim Carey (Dec 31, 2005)

*Thumb Release*

Has anybody tried the thumb release method? That's where you put the string in your thumb joint and cover it with the pointing fingure and release the string like that. I'm just starting archery and have been reading ALOT of articles looking for all types of tips and hints.


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## deagle (Dec 19, 2005)

Thumb release (and the associated thumb ring) is predominantly a korean thing, I believe. In addition to the release, the draw and anchor are totally different. I really don't know much about it, I've seen someone shooting a small korean recurve (it drew 50 pounds, but felt like a 30 pounder! The thing was probably in the 40 inch range, it put me in mind of a mongolian horsebow) and the style was completely different from anything we'd do with our traditional recurves and longbows that I couldn't even fully divine what muscle groups he was using, or what aim method he was employing. I say all that to say this -- it's a totally different animal. Interesting, to be certain.


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