# Stabilizers



## dartonpro4000 (Oct 12, 2010)

Find what fits you best. I have never seen a chart that says what subs you need for your height. Try some of you friends stabs out if they have them or maybe you local pro shop has a few you could try.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Chelz said:


> Hi Everyone,
> 
> How do guys know how long are you suppose to get for your set up? I'm pretty short. I stand 5' feet tall. I've heard that the 30' inch front would be way too long for me..
> 
> Just want to know how you guys determine the inches of the front and the side of the stabilizers.


Don't know if height really has anything to do with the front stabilizer, just the amount of weight you put on the end. If a first timer, classified stabilizers are definitely less expensive. So you could buy one 30" or longer and cut it down. No real biggie about cutting one. You might take it to a bow shop or person that has done it. Heat up what would be the best end to heat up and remove the end piece. Whack off 2 inches and glue end back on. Watched a friend chop down his expensive Stinger. Loves it shorter.....

Back bars run short, 10" to 15" and more. Find what gives clearance to you or that you can offset and give clearance. I have a 10" for one bow and two 12" bar for another. I have a 30" front stab. Figure 1 more inch for all because I'm using quick disconnects. I stand right at 5" 9" now. Shrunk a bit as I once stood right at 5" 11" when a lot younger.

Longer stab or back bars take less weight to get effect.....


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## Deputy Archer (Apr 12, 2009)

5 ft, I would recommend a 10 or 12 for the back bar. I am 5'5 and ran a 15 on the back kinda close to the string. On field and 3d rounds downhill shots I would make contact with my leg. Just a heads up


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## Lazarus (Sep 19, 2005)

What Sonny said above. ^^^ Not too much can be added to it. Just remember this simple formula, more length = less weight. If you are only 5' tall I wouldn't recommend a front rod longer than 28" or so just for the simple fact that it might be a slight awkward toting it around. As far at the back rod, it depends on the grip you put on the bow, the up/down angle you are most comfortable with, and whether you want your weight to act as mass or actual resistance to the rotation of the bow. Again, all of that depends on you.

One piece of advice. Don't get too wrapped up in all the hype about weight ratio's and such. It can be pretty confusing. Understand if you haven't shot the longer rods before you are going to be shooting a whole different feel. 

Do this before you start, whatever length you decide on;

(1) Use a ratio of 1oz front to 2oz back weight. 
(2) Provided you use one back bar set it at a 45 degree angle to the arrow.
(3) Set your back rod (in/out) angle where your bubble is automatically level when you hit full draw. 

^Is this what the "Pro's" shoot? Hardly, but it's a starting point. Nothing more. 

Shoot that for at least a couple of thousand shots to build yourself into the whole different mass weight/and (anti) balance. Pay real close attention to your "hold." Record what you are feeling and seeing in a journal after each session. Read and learn everything you can about stabilizers and weights, then believe none of it applies to you, because all of it won't, you have to _find_ what does. Everybody is built different, everybody prefers a different feel, and everybody has varying muscle strength/weaknesses.

Last, one of the greatest myths in the whole stabilizer "science" is the saying; "just try a whole bunch of different set-ups. You'll know when you have found the right one." Truth is, No you won't. You have to build into what is best for you. Think about it, most of us aren't built to automatically be able to stick 10 pounds out in front of us and hold it *[up]* at a right angle to the ground. It takes some building to get it right. 

Above all, don't let this all intimidate you. Don't be afraid to experiment, yet don't be really quick to change what at first might not seem just right. Toying with stabilizers and their effects on your *hold* is one of the easiest, most interesting/fun things you can do to improve your scores.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Laz, :thumbs_up


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## EPLC (May 21, 2002)

Lazarus said:


> What Sonny said above. ^^^ Not too much can be added to it. Just remember this simple formula, more length = less weight. If you are only 5' tall I wouldn't recommend a front rod longer than 28" or so just for the simple fact that it might be a slight awkward toting it around. As far at the back rod, it depends on the grip you put on the bow, the up/down angle you are most comfortable with, and whether you want your weight to act as mass or actual resistance to the rotation of the bow. Again, all of that depends on you.
> 
> One piece of advice. Don't get too wrapped up in all the hype about weight ratio's and such. It can be pretty confusing. Understand if you haven't shot the longer rods before you are going to be shooting a whole different feel.
> 
> ...


This is very good advice. As one that actually builds stabilizers part time I know that everyone has different requirements for what is best for them. I myself like a lot of back weight and generally use a 30" and 15"... I'm 5'9" medium build. I've used as long as 33" up front and 18" on the back, requiring less overall weight. Some like front weight, some like back. Like Laz said, don't be afraid to experiment. Another option would be to go with shorter bars to start off and use various length extensions to try different lengths.


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## pwyrick (Feb 13, 2011)

Absolutely agree that each of us may need a different setup. Our bodies are just different but we need someplace to start. Lazarus has given a sound place to start and a good place to go back to when you have experimented to the point that you feel lost. That happens to all of us. And always remember that stabilizers are there to provide extra stability to your entire process. Sometimes we get caught up in trying to get our bows to balance. Stability and balance are two different things. Ultimately your combination will provide you with the most stable platform (that includes you and the bow) from which to release the arrow.


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## hollywood88 (Feb 9, 2009)

Im 5'10" and prefer to run a 28" front and 12" side. Is there a scientific reason as to why I chose this length? No, it just happens to be the perfect length for me to great the end of the front bar on the ground while standing at the shooting line and the back bar is short enough it doesn't interfere with anything on an extreme downhill shot. I've tried a 30/15 combo but didn't like how the bow sat while I was resting between shots and on steep downhill shots I'd have to contort a little to avoid contact with the rear bar. But in the end Its all about what YOU personally feel is best.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

The natural balance of the bow has a significant effect on stab set-up for me. Coming from a reflexed low BH bow like my Ultra Elite to something inline with a higher BH required a lot less back weight.
Also although I hold best with a lot of weight (for me) on the bow I simply don't have the strength to score well with it and the windier the day gets the faster I tire. So I'm shooting a fairly short 26" front stab with only 3oz on the end. and a 14" rear with 8oz on the UE. I may go shorter on the rear stab with the new bow.

-Grant


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## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

24" main or so will work better with the holding weight you'll be running and it will also allow for weight on the bar.... I'd start with a 15" back, worst comes of it you can trim them down to the length that works best for you (they cut very well on an arrow saw). 

I would suggest setting them up for the best hold and "balance" when starting out and going the route of refinement sooner rather than later...


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## montigre (Oct 13, 2008)

I would also not use extensions as is recommended above because you would be adding unwanted weight in the center of the stabilizer with the connection screw and 2 additional end plates. You want all of the added weight to be at the ends of the bar otherwise you diminish the overall effectiveness of the stabilizer.


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## Chelz (Dec 9, 2014)

Thanks GUYS..

I'm fairly new with archery and I'm currently using a hunting bow and will soon transition to TARGET ARCHERY. 
So I thought that it depends on the height of the person.

So I guess, I would start out with a 28' on front and 10 on the back. I've tried my friends bow that kind of had that longer inche, I forgot the exact inches, but it was kind of hard for me to maneuver it for me. I guess the one I really need to study more is the weights as well. Cause that is the one that will help me balance my bow.


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## EPLC (May 21, 2002)

montigre said:


> I would also not use extensions as is recommended above because you would be adding unwanted weight in the center of the stabilizer with the connection screw and 2 additional end plates. You want all of the added weight to be at the ends of the bar otherwise you diminish the overall effectiveness of the stabilizer.


Not sure what you are talking about? A strong, but light extension added to the bow end of a rod does not add weight to the middle of the stabilizer and the bar reacts much the same as a bar of the same length. The functional differences are minimal at best.


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## montigre (Oct 13, 2008)

EPLC said:


> Not sure what you are talking about? A strong, but light extension added to the bow end of a rod does not add weight to the middle of the stabilizer and the bar reacts much the same as a bar of the same length. The functional differences are minimal at best.


Not trying to pick an argument here... People can use or disregard this info as they see fit.

View attachment 2124846


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## EPLC (May 21, 2002)

montigre said:


> Not trying to pick an argument here... People can use or disregard this info as they see fit.
> 
> View attachment 2124846


The point being: Most people, especially new archers, do not have access to multiple bars to experiment with. This was one of the frustrations I faced prior to developing and investing in my own bar system. The use of extensions is a cost effective method to find the proper stabilizer configuration without either breaking the bank or being stuck with something that isn't working out. Lets say a person has a 28" front bar and a 12" back bar but would like to try a 30" or longer and perhaps a 15". If they had a couple short extensions they could try out the desired lengths without making a major investment up front. The functional differences are minimal at best. Some have suggested cutting bars... really? While this may be the solution for some, you better know the bar and have the skills to do this.


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## Lazarus (Sep 19, 2005)

I have made an even better "try" system than the aftermarket rod extensions. It's really easy. Take a broken or bent 2712 arrow, preferably aluminum but carbon works too, just not as durable. Cut it in sections of 1", 2", 3", 4", etc. You can do the same to make a "try" back bar, cutting the arrow in sections of 10", 12", 13", etc as long as you want. Then, get some 5/16-24 all-thread and cut it in lengths that are about 3" longer than each corresponding arrow section. When you put them together just add a 5/16" flat washer to the ends of the 2712 "bushing", screw it into your stabilizer or QD extension, weight it down, enjoy.

And yes, I realize the 5/16-24 all thread is heavier than a carbon tube. It's not an exact science, but it does do an outstanding job of letting you "feel" what a touch more length will do to your system. It also lets you try out different back bar lengths before making the investment in a permanent rod. Shoot, before the use of carbon rod, in the late 70's/early 80's this is how we made V bars! They were custom made, that's what we shot!


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## EPLC (May 21, 2002)

Lazarus said:


> I have made an even better "try" system than the aftermarket rod extensions. It's really easy. Take a broken or bent 2712 arrow, preferably aluminum but carbon works too, just not as durable. Cut it in sections of 1", 2", 3", 4", etc. You can do the same to make a "try" back bar, cutting the arrow in sections of 10", 12", 13", etc as long as you want. Then, get some 5/16-24 all-thread and cut it in lengths that are about 3" longer than each corresponding arrow section. When you put them together just add a 5/16" flat washer to the ends of the 2712 "bushing", screw it into your stabilizer or QD extension, weight it down, enjoy.
> 
> And yes, I realize the 5/16-24 all thread is heavier than a carbon tube. It's not an exact science, but it does do an outstanding job of letting you "feel" what a touch more length will do to your system. It also lets you try out different back bar lengths before making the investment in a permanent rod. Shoot, before the use of carbon rod, in the late 70's/early 80's this is how we made V bars! They were custom made, that's what we shot!


This is a very good idea. The only issue I can see would be the stiffness of the DIY bar and the feel of the after shot but it would give a shooter some idea of the balance, assuming you have enough weights to play with... Good idea.


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## Lazarus (Sep 19, 2005)

EPLC said:


> This is a very good idea. The only issue I can see would be the stiffness of the DIY bar and the feel of the after shot but it would give a shooter some idea of the balance, assuming you have enough weights to play with... Good idea.


Yep. You're exactly right EPLC, you do get some funny feedback sometimes. But again, as you noted, it gives you an idea of what to expect. To be very candid, before I landed on my 34" front rod length I was shooting with one of these 4" extensions on the front of a 30" main and 4" on the back of a 14" back bar. I wish I had pictures of it. They look like little prosthesis on your bow. However, I was shooting them better than I ever shot in my life at that time. Archery, it's not as complicated as some people try to make it.


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## EPLC (May 21, 2002)

Lazarus said:


> Yep. You're exactly right EPLC, you do get some funny feedback sometimes. But again, as you noted, it gives you an idea of what to expect. To be very candid, before I landed on my 34" front rod length I was shooting with one of these 4" extensions on the front of a 30" main and 4" on the back of a 14" back bar. I wish I had pictures of it. They look like little prosthesis on your bow. However, I was shooting them better than I ever shot in my life at that time. Archery, it's not as complicated as some people try to make it.


Total agreement! It really doesn't really matter how you get there. Extensions, home made or store bought, are a valid inexpensive method to run some trial and error stabilization tests without having to make a major investment that may or may not be what you are looking for.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

I've used an extension with a longrod to try out different lengths. All it does is add perhaps 4 oz of mass without adding 4 oz of stabilization if that makes sense. Putting an extension on the far end of the rod will reduce that side-effect substantially.

I make my own stabs, I doubt I'll shoot a commercially made one unless it's given to me.

-Grant


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

Don't make this to complicated, go to the classifieds and find a 28 or 30 inch front and 12 inch rear with a rear mounting bracket. I would look for b stinger competitors they are really nice and get the job done for way less than the premiers.

then put them on the bow with no weights and start shooting and then add a little weight and shoot some more and keep doing this until you find a combination that feels really good and reduces your float. I would pick combinations that either completely balance the bow left to right and also I would try a slightly front heavy and rear heavy setup because each one of these changes how you feel as you shoot and follow through. I would go back and repeat this in a month or so after you get used to shooting with a full set of stabs and you will get a even better combination.


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## Rick! (Aug 10, 2008)

Chelz said:


> Thanks GUYS..
> 
> I'm fairly new with archery and I'm currently using a hunting bow and will soon transition to TARGET ARCHERY.
> So I thought that it depends on the height of the person.
> ...


Yes, don't forget to have extra weights or fender washers or access to a lathe and some bar stock.


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## Lazarus (Sep 19, 2005)

Rick! said:


> Yes, don't forget to have extra weights or fender washers or access to a lathe and some bar stock.


Large lead fishin' sinkers pounded flat, drilled 5/16" then weighed work good too. I know, you're jealous, us ******** from Mo can get real creative can't we? 

I have one lead weight that weighs in at 20 oz. :teeth: It was a snaggin' sinker before being pounded flat, and unless you're from MO you probably have no idea what that is.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

I REFUSE to admit to making a "dish" stab weight by melting surplus wheel weights in a tuna can with a torch.

But damn does that thing have some mass.

-Grant


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## JF from VA (Dec 5, 2002)

Lazarus said:


> It was a snaggin' sinker before being pounded flat, and unless you're from MO you probably have no idea what that is.


I do!


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## Chelz (Dec 9, 2014)

WOW! when U guys talk more about it, even though I'm new at this helps me a bit hehe. I know some of the information I've read needs to sink in very well. Because I'm learning more about it. And the more people talk about it, I kind of getting it as well.. But I guess I know where to start from.


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## Lazarus (Sep 19, 2005)

Who says you have to be tall to shoot a long rod? 

I'm guessing Jesse's bar is over 30" and how tall his he? Less than 5 feet? Terry's isn't too short either. 

Just wanted to share.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

View attachment 2128965
I like them long enough to use as a cane or to lean on....getting older and all


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