# my try at press fingers



## orarcher (Jun 3, 2006)

They Look GREAT !! just don't think the aluminum will be strong enough.


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## munch (Mar 27, 2005)

orarcher said:


> They Look GREAT !! just don't think the aluminum will be strong enough.


i wondered too if they would be heavy enough but thought that a bow that draws 60 lbs at full draw would not put more than 15lbs of force on each finger .i'm not an engineer but would think if i bolted this to the wall a 200lb guy could stand on one and not bend.like to hear if anyone knows how much force would be put on each finger .thanks munch


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## Mitchell welty (Jan 22, 2011)

they will be fine


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## Vortex69 (Jul 8, 2007)

orarcher said:


> They Look GREAT !! just don't think the aluminum will be strong enough.


The fingers on my EZ are aluminum...haven't heard of any of them breaking yet, but if one does, I'm sure the whole planet will know within minutes.

Hey Terry, those things look great. That extra large contact plane (relative to a EZ finger) will come in handy when you have to mess around with module screws like on the Specialist. That extra real estate will allow you to press the bow quite a bit lower when needed. 
Did you plan it like that or are you just always lucky??


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## adhcountry (Dec 9, 2010)

look good to me


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## munch (Mar 27, 2005)

Vortex69 said:


> The fingers on my EZ are aluminum...haven't heard of any of them breaking yet, but if one does, I'm sure the whole planet will know within minutes.
> 
> Hey Terry, those things look great. That extra large contact plane (relative to a EZ finger) will come in handy when you have to mess around with module screws like on the Specialist. That extra real estate will allow you to press the bow quite a bit lower when needed.
> Did you plan it like that or are you just always lucky??


mike the first piece i picked up was half inch and had a real nice finish. i toyught it was just another drop but not the case. it was mil spec i think the guy called it it is gournd to perfect tollerance for machine work i think.the shop wanted 65 bucks for that piece so i thought i would stick to the cheaper stuff incase i threw it away.if and when i get a press built to go with the string jigs i will have an autocad program drawn and get them lazer cut maybe from thinner but better quality alun.i ordered some florescent green and wagon red powder coat paint the other day so will come up with a real bright paint job on the press .mike i will be doing some jig posts sunday for a fewllow with 1/4" steel pins in the top of the posts so he can do smaller loops. will keep you posted if it is an improvement as well .


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## Tunaboy (Oct 3, 2004)

They look good to me. I too think that 5/8 thick 6061 will be fine. That is a great idea. I have a Delta wood band saw that I can get metal blades for. I would never try to cut that much steel but aluminum should work. Thanks for the tip.


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## Vortex69 (Jul 8, 2007)

Hey Terry, you may want to consider munching a bit more material around the top of those fingers. Clearance in that area is a precious commodity. If you do elect to thin down that area, make sure you don't go too thin and create a saftey issue. Here's a picture of the real deal you can use as a reference. Also have a pic of the spring steel they use below the fingers and my additional spring steel tab that keeps the fingers from sliding off. Hope some of this helps.


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## easymoney (Mar 26, 2006)

I'm in the process of making some AL fingers now too! I was worried that they wouldn't be strong enough but after getting them cut I think I'll be fine as will you. I'm not far enough along to find out yet! More building of the press is needed. Good luck.
JW


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## Vortex69 (Jul 8, 2007)

Tunaboy said:


> .... I too think that 5/8 thick 6061 will be fine....



The stock units are .500" thick so 5/8" is more than enough.


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## munch (Mar 27, 2005)

Vortex69 said:


> The stock units are .500" thick so 5/8" is more than enough.


mike do you know if your press will work on a pse dreamseason bow .i have one plus mathews xl and browning also a couple other older bows


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## Vortex69 (Jul 8, 2007)

Sorry, can't help you with the DS, XL,or Browning (never pressed one), but as far as some of the real old bows, I think I would be a little bit cautious because of the flatter limb angle. I used a linear press on a old Jennings Unistar, and after about twenty shots, a limb broke. Can't say for sure if it was the pressing or something else, so.......you don't happen to have any limbs for a JU, do ya?


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## Tunaboy (Oct 3, 2004)

I do some woodworking and many times I make a wooden patterns to make multiple identical parts. You double side tape the pattern to the rough cut piece and use a router to make as many duplicates as you need. I wonder if I could make a wooden pattern for a finger and then rough cut the aluminun say 1/32" oversize and then take my router to make an exact duplicate? The router bit is carbide so it might work. If you had a finger off a purchased press you could make an exact copy of that finger if the router would handle the aluminum. What do you think??


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## hunt123 (Jan 17, 2009)

Dang, that's a great idea. Didn't know the EZ fingers are aluminum and I though a person would have to use 1/2" steel. With 5/8" aluminum, I can make them myself. Thanks for the tip!!

Does anyone have a drawing or dimensions they could share?


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## Dthbyhoyt (Dec 4, 2004)

Look great , if ya need somebody to test a set let me know ..:wink:


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## munch (Mar 27, 2005)

i can scan the pattern i made and email to guys that want to then print it cut out the paper thin pattern and transfer it to a piece of cardboard as a template.busy today but will try to get at it


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## bowtechhunter64 (Jul 19, 2007)

munch said:


> i can scan the pattern i made and email to guys that want to then print it cut out the paper thin pattern and transfer it to a piece of cardboard as a template.busy today but will try to get at it


Thanks that would help a lot.


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## wisetech (Nov 14, 2008)

I've got 1/2" thick aluminum fingers on my DIY press that I cut out with my band saw. Been using the press for more than a year now and pressed all makes and models of bows with no problems.


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## munch (Mar 27, 2005)

hope this works. if you download this pic then print it on full page you should have the same thing.just remember to cut out on the inside of the line i traced my pattern with a black sharpie


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## Tunaboy (Oct 3, 2004)

Just a note on making a pattern and using a router to make duplicated. I am going to try this when I get some material but I plan to do the routing on a router table. Parts this size and shape would be hard to rout holding the router. This duplication process works because the router bit has a ball bearing the same size as the cutter diameter. The bearing follows the pattern and gives you an exact duplicate. Wisetech: do you know if your fingers are 6061 aluminum? I am still getting comments about the strength of aluminum fingers.


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## orarcher (Jun 3, 2006)

After thinking about it for a bit your probably fine !! they do look good congrats !! I have sold Alum. plates to guys before maybe they were planning the same thing


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## Tunaboy (Oct 3, 2004)

I called Speedy Metals. 1/2" thick 6061 plate 12" square was over $50. Where did the guy find the 5/8" for $23? I called a salvage yard but could only find steel. Any ideas??


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## EnglishKev (Aug 8, 2009)

hunt123 said:


> Dang, that's a great idea. Didn't know the EZ fingers are aluminum and I though a person would have to use 1/2" steel. With 5/8" aluminum, I can make them myself. Thanks for the tip!!
> 
> Does anyone have a drawing or dimensions they could share?


This might help for starter dimensions (I used them for mine).
They were steel, but you could always thicken the tips a bit if you wanted for aluminum ones.

Kev


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## Tunaboy (Oct 3, 2004)

If anyone has OME fingers and access to a brinell hardness tester could do a hardness check we could get an indication as to what grade of aluminum would work. I think that 6061 aluminum would be OK but if we could match hardness values we could be more confident on the material choice for fingers. If you work in a shop that machines steel they use a different system called Rockwell C and will not work. The Rockwell system uses a small diamound point that leaves a small pin prick mark on the material. The Brinell uses a .200 steel ball and leaves a rould dimple about 3/32" diameter.


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## orarcher (Jun 3, 2006)

Hey Tuna !! I have 1/2" by 12" 6061 selling at $18 a foot.


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## ruttnwapati (Sep 22, 2008)

Tunaboy said:


> If anyone has OME fingers and access to a brinell hardness tester could do a hardness check we could get an indication as to what grade of aluminum would work. I think that 6061 aluminum would be OK but if we could match hardness values we could be more confident on the material choice for fingers. If you work in a shop that machines steel they use a different system called Rockwell C and will not work. The Rockwell system uses a small diamound point that leaves a small pin prick mark on the material. The Brinell uses a .200 steel ball and leaves a rould dimple about 3/32" diameter.


There's an ATer who did/does computer modeling for various different metals or materials as related to press fingers and their stress points. He had it posted a while back for everyone to see. 05 sprcrw I think is his name. PM him and see what he says. He was very helpful when I had questions on the strenght of fingers I had CNC out of a specific phenolic material. Good Luck


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## munch (Mar 27, 2005)

Tunaboy said:


> I called Speedy Metals. 1/2" thick 6061 plate 12" square was over $50. Where did the guy find the 5/8" for $23? I called a salvage yard but could only find steel. Any ideas??


i bought the piece as a drop from metal supermarket


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## marc1980augrad (Apr 30, 2013)

bump to save post


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## Stangbeater (Nov 23, 2005)

Some good info in here. I would think that 6061 would have no problem at .500 thick.


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