# Lighted arrow nocks



## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

I was wondering where I can get the LED lights. Also If anyone has made some of these I would appreciate some advice. I've watched a how to on YouTube and I kind of know how to do it...Thanks!!!


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## timmer90 (Apr 1, 2009)

*nite brite*

Hi
Do a google search for Nite Brite Replacement Battery. I also watched you tube and have made a couple of them. they work great.

try searching for 
fishermanswarehouse

hope this helps


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## shakyshot (Dec 21, 2007)

thill flote batterys from basspro


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## PA.JAY (May 26, 2004)

gander has them also


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## revoarcher (Jul 18, 2006)

You can order them from from horizon hobby. You get a 3 pack for $9.97. Heres a link http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ID=RNBRC7047R3
You can also buy cheap instructions for a much better way to make them in the classifieds section.
The link I provided doesnt seem to be working but it gives you an idea of where to look.


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## mtn. archer (Apr 2, 2005)

you will get better results with sewing needle method i did the glue method and messed some up but with the sewing method i havent messed any up since very simple and they work well


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

mtn. archer said:


> you will get better results with sewing needle method i did the glue method and messed some up but with the sewing method i havent messed any up since very simple and they work well


Yea, I saw another thread where they used that. Istill don't understand exactly how you do that!!!


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## BuckySWT (Mar 15, 2009)

Check out Firenocks...IHMO, they the best ones you can get out on the market. Tons of different versions for target and hunting, many different nock color options, cutting edge technology, and they're reliable...shot after shot, after shot.

www.firenock.com/

I don't work for them...I use their product...tried lots of other nocks out there, and I'm sold on this one...not going back.


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## rayandkellyh (Apr 28, 2009)

*where to buy*

If you have a sportsman warehouse closing near you they are cheap to get. I bought 5 today for $1.34 each. The ones I bought were in the fishing area and come with the bobbers (not that I need them). The sign on the door said 2 days left.


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## kickercoach1285 (Apr 28, 2009)

ebay is the cheapest place i've found and they do work great


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## kdwyohunter (May 1, 2009)

Man I need to make some of those.


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## dwlk5 (Dec 13, 2008)

I buy my lights at the local bait and tackle shop


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

If go to the fishing section at the local store, what exactly should I ask for? thanks guys!


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## BowHuntnKY (Dec 10, 2008)

i got mine from a local hardware/outdoors store. and i have both the plans from here (revoarcher) and I did follow the ones from youtube, youtube were easier to make but revos work better.


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## Atchison (Apr 15, 2009)

I got 2 Thil lights at Wal-Mart for $3.16 each, just got them this weekend so haven't had time to try them yet though


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## kzz1king (Jan 21, 2007)

Some questions for you who have been using these. Do you turn them on before the shot or do they turn on on impact? If you miss and they slide in the grass will they turn on(hunt from ground)? And do they weigh much? Thanks


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## revoarcher (Jul 18, 2006)

kzz1king said:


> Some questions for you who have been using these. Do you turn them on before the shot or do they turn on on impact? If you miss and they slide in the grass will they turn on(hunt from ground)? And do they weigh much? Thanks


No you dont have to turn them on before the shot they turn on by the string pushing the nock in on both designs. If you make them my way they will stay on sliding through the grass. I cant say about the other way because I never shot one in the grass and didnt like the downfalls of the design. So I made them my way. As far as weight mine will add about 12 grs the youtube way will add more.


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## Sideways (Feb 13, 2006)

PA3-DArcher4 said:


> Yea, I saw another thread where they used that. Istill don't understand exactly how you do that!!!


Can you post a link to the thread?


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## Fiferguy (Apr 16, 2009)

PA3-DArcher4 said:


> Yea, I saw another thread where they used that. Istill don't understand exactly how you do that!!!


It's actually pretty easy. You push the light all the way into the nock until it's as deep as you want it. Then take a needle in a pair of pliers and heat it with a lighter/blowtorch/kitchen stove/etc. until it's red hot. Then push the needle into the nock toward the plastic end of the light. The needle SHOULD go right though, and it'll fuse the end of the light to the nock.

At least that's what I did when I made mine. No glueing, no drilling, and seems to hold up pretty good so far.

Edit: Works really well with a small brad nail as well.


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## kwilson16 (May 14, 2007)

Is there any worries about comprimising the structural integrity of the nock? 

We are asking an awful lot of these little pieces of plastic.


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## Fiferguy (Apr 16, 2009)

kwilson16 said:


> Is there any worries about comprimising the structural integrity of the nock?
> 
> We are asking an awful lot of these little pieces of plastic.


If you do it the youtube way, yes. You can drill too much out and make the nock crack/break while you're making it, when you shoot it, when it stops, etc. The way I did it, there's no drilling, and the hole I made with the needle is so small that I don't think there's any loss of strength. I could be wrong, but I don't think there's enough strength loss reguardless to matter.


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## Ancient Archer (Sep 25, 2008)

I just checked ebay for these Nite Brite battery/light devices. Here is what I found.

(1) Lindy LF110 Thill Nite Brite Battery & Red Light (310134826439) $3.39.

Shipping $9.57.

Please note that the shipping charge was NOT noted until I inquired vie email. So, be careful. If the shipping fee is not noted, and you proceed with the purchase, you may get stung! The seller was jmstore


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## revoarcher (Jul 18, 2006)

That little piece of plastic is pretty strong and if you glue the battery and light in good they add strength back into the nock. Check this thread out?
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=861153


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## Ancient Archer (Sep 25, 2008)

Another source for Lindy Nite Brite Replacement Batteries is
http://www.fishermanswarehouse.com/shop/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=3971

$2.99/ea & no shipping charges.


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## Fiferguy (Apr 16, 2009)

I also found them at Gander Mountain in Amarillo on Thursday for $1.99 a piece. I might see if they have any more when I go through tomorrow.


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## BowHuntnKY (Dec 10, 2008)

From the youtube instruction ones he says to drill out the knock, you DO NOT NEED TO drill the knock! I didnt no drill any of mine, only reason he says to is for the knock to be brighter. I did not drill mine and they are plenty bright enuff.


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## Ancient Archer (Sep 25, 2008)

Now that is a great price - best yet! Couldn't find them elsewhere on gandermountain.com


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## Ancient Archer (Sep 25, 2008)

I agree with BowHuntnKY, plus I think the "bulb-base" portion would stick better without the drilled hole - more surface to attach too.

Also, X-Nocks for Easton Axis arrows will have to be drilled out to accept the battery. This reduces the wall thickness of the smaller X-Nock, but there isn't that much stress going on there.

I'm trying to figure an alternative way to make them work without having to epox a section of a nock to the battery to fit into the shaft. Getting the nock to fit tight in the shaft can be a problem. I'm having a gang of shooters over this weekend and want to have a few made up. There is a PDF "Instructions" that can be purchased on line, and I'm doing that, but it won't be available until after the weekend is over.

Any ideas out there?


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## dwlk5 (Dec 13, 2008)

Ancient Archer said:


> I agree with BowHuntnKY, plus I think the "bulb-base" portion would stick better without the drilled hole - more surface to attach too.
> 
> Also, X-Nocks for Easton Axis arrows will have to be drilled out to accept the battery. This reduces the wall thickness of the smaller X-Nock, but there isn't that much stress going on there.
> 
> ...


I didn't drill my x- nocks at all the light glued in just fine 
instead of glueing a piece of nock to the end i was thinking of trying a piece of clear tubeing like from a fish tank


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## Fiferguy (Apr 16, 2009)

dwlk5 said:


> I didn't drill my x- nocks at all the light glued in just fine
> instead of glueing a piece of nock to the end i was thinking of trying a piece of clear tubeing like from a fish tank


Hadn't thought about that.  I was thinking about wrapping a few wraps of teflon plumber's tape on the bit of nock at the end of the battery. Should only add a grain or two to the weight, and would make it fit just a tad bit tighter.


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## CEC81561 (Mar 20, 2008)

*knocks*

if u can find thin wall tubing that would work, some of the line is thick and wont fit into end of arrow, also might try an o ring? i used cut off nock on mine


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## revoarcher (Jul 18, 2006)

Bump. Great comments and great links!!


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## bilongo (Nov 18, 2008)

*Lighted nocks inst*

someone posted this pic long time ago. Hope it work.:darkbeer:


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## Sideways (Feb 13, 2006)

What are the 5/32nds and 11/64ths holes for?


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Hey guys,
I'm way behind the curve here but I may be able to help...
1. can someone provide the link to where I can buy the plans online to make these so I can look at them?
2. I have a rapid prototype machine at work that prints out in ABS plastic so I may be able to come up with some type of small insert to make a tight fit so no gluing is needed.

If someone can get me up to speed quick on these I may be able to help out.


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## bilongo (Nov 18, 2008)

Sideways said:


> What are the 5/32nds and 11/64ths holes for?


The 11/64ths is the diameter of the battery and the 3/32nds is the hole for the light comes out of the nock and the 5/32nds is for a better diameter glueing surface for the LED


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## bilongo (Nov 18, 2008)

CEC81561 said:


> if u can find thin wall tubing that would work, some of the line is thick and wont fit into end of arrow, also might try an o ring? i used cut off nock on mine


Anyone try out heatshrinking tubing? Let me know:darkbeer:


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## bowtech/travis (Dec 5, 2007)

I found the replacement batteries at our local Academy Sports and Outdoors. I did drill the end of my nocks out but I do not think it is necessary. I shoot fobs so I made mine so that the fob and knock can come off on a pass through and the light stays in the end of the arrow. The only draw back is you have to remove the knock every time you want to turn the light off. I have not had any trouble with mine and I shoot them daily. With the exception that I had one light the was damaged before I built it and did not use it. I like them because there are not any ( as far as I know) manufactured lighted knocks that you can use with fobs and the light will stay in the arrow to help in recovery of your arrow. :darkbeer:


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

Sideways said:


> Can you post a link to the thread?


the picture on post #33 is the one I was looking at, I think...


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## wsbark01 (Feb 26, 2009)

*Built these a while back!!*

I built these a while back and they work great!! Made from the pic in post #33!!


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## bilongo (Nov 18, 2008)

*youtube inst*

hope it works

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMqLT-4ezzk

:darkbeer:


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## sticbow (Feb 29, 2004)

Ok, I shoot 2117 aluminum shafts with the unibushing so the stop thats glued on the bottom of the battery won't work as a stop because of the larger diameter of the shaft. So does that mean I have to go to carbon shafts?

Maybe Firenocks is my only option......... any suggestions?


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## bilongo (Nov 18, 2008)

sticbow said:


> Ok, I shoot 2117 aluminum shafts with the unibushing so the stop thats glued on the bottom of the battery won't work as a stop because of the larger diameter of the shaft. So does that mean I have to go to carbon shafts?
> 
> Maybe Firenocks is my only option......... any suggestions?


Sand another unibushing inserted to the arrow an used the same instructions .That's what I call reversed enginering.:darkbeer:


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## bilongo (Nov 18, 2008)

sticbow said:


> Ok, I shoot 2117 aluminum shafts with the unibushing so the stop thats glued on the bottom of the battery won't work as a stop because of the larger diameter of the shaft. So does that mean I have to go to carbon shafts?
> 
> Maybe Firenocks is my only option......... any suggestions?


check this out:darkbeer:


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## wsbark01 (Feb 26, 2009)

*Go to this page.....*



sticbow said:


> Ok, I shoot 2117 aluminum shafts with the unibushing so the stop thats glued on the bottom of the battery won't work as a stop because of the larger diameter of the shaft. So does that mean I have to go to carbon shafts?
> 
> Maybe Firenocks is my only option......... any suggestions?


And order the instructions, he has them for aluminum arrows.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=861153&highlight=REVOARCHER

And he is a great guy to deal with!


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

how loose should the nock be? In the YouTube vid he said the nock should be looser than normal. Also for you guys that have made some of these: have you ever had the LED light break...some people on youtube said the light part broke from the force. thanks!


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## Firenock (Nov 5, 2006)

*Firenock will not work with uni-bushing too!*



sticbow said:


> Ok, I shoot 2117 aluminum shafts with the unibushing so the stop thats glued on the bottom of the battery won't work as a stop because of the larger diameter of the shaft. So does that mean I have to go to carbon shafts?
> 
> Maybe Firenocks is my only option......... any suggestions?


http://www.firenock.com/faqs.htm#09_2
*Will any Firenock “G” series work with Easton uni-bushing system?*
No Firenock can work properly when a Uni-Bushing is installed. All Firenock systems require multiple contact points on the inside wall of the arrow shaft. The Uni-Bushing system makes the multiple contact points impossible to achieve. If an arrow has an Uni-Bushing installed, the Uni-Bushing will need to be removed in order for the Firenock to work properly. Some people have tried to glue the circuit into the nock so that it would work in aluminum arrows, but the performance and results have been marginal at best. Thus we do not recommend that a Firenock system be installed in ANY arrow that has a Uni-Bushing system installed.

To top it off, ALL Lighted nock with battery when use inside an Uni-bushing system will not fly right as spin balance is close to impossible!


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## Chesta22 (Aug 21, 2007)

Revoarcher's plans work, but they are a little more mechanically inclined than I had patience for. I did make one, and they work great. I've made 3 of the youtube style ones, and they work just as well. The trickiest part is getting the light to glue into the knock without getting stuck in the on position. I drilled out a small hole in the end of the knock, and then drilled out the inside of the knock itself so that the light would slide in easily. Don't drill too far into the knock, or you won't have enough of the battery sticking out to put your stopper on. I'm going to try the sowing needle way for my next one, as I hear it's a lot easier than super glue. 

Sand the knock so that it slides inside the arrow fairly easily as well. Use super glue around the neck of the light and push it in the drilled out knock, and let it sit for a few seconds. If it is stuck on, then pull it back out and try it again. Keep trying it, until it finally sticks, and you can turn the light on and off by pushing and pulling on the battery. It takes a few tries, but once you get it right, it's there for good. 

Don't sand down the stopper knock piece. I made that mistake on my first one, and the whole thing slides out of the arrow too easily. Once it's all together, push it into the arrow how you want it to sit for the string. Then, you just pull the knock to turn it off, and it turns on by the force of the string. The two I use for hunting have worked flawlessly on numerous practice shots and two hogs. Both hogs were complete pass throughs, and if it weren't for the knock, I would have lost the arrow in tall grass.


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## revoarcher (Jul 18, 2006)

I have a couple of questions for everyone who has made them the youtube way. After inserting the nock can you turn it to line up your feathers and can you easily remove it and put it in another arrow without wrecking the light and how many of you have 3 or 4 arrows just sitting at home only being used during hunting season because they have youtube lighted nocks in them? How many lights have you wrecked gluing them in the on position?


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## Ancient Archer (Sep 25, 2008)

The clever design that Revoarcher came up with works very well. PLUS, it's intechangeable with other arrows of the same size, you don't have to worry about the "tight" fit into the arrow shaft which is critical, or the "right way" to glue the bulb into the nock. He also has the technique down for Easton Axis arrows.

After trying the YouTube way, I decided that I like the "Revoarcher" way better because of these features. With the YouTube way it's very easy to over-sand the forward nock section that fits into the shaft. If it slides into the shaft too easily, then you have to build it up to fit tight. You also have to be sure of the nock alignment before inserting the lighted nock into the shaft.

However, one thing I would add to his design though is a drilled hole through the nock for additional lighting. I use a 1/16" dia for the X-nocks on the Axis arrows and a 3/32" dia. hole for larger size nocks.

After comparing a red light in a red translucent nock vs. a green light in a green translucent nock, I found the green/green to be brighter than the red/red.


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## revoarcher (Jul 18, 2006)

Ancient Archer said:


> The clever design that Revoarcher came up with works very well. PLUS, it's intechangeable with other arrows of the same size, you don't have to worry about the "tight" fit into the arrow shaft which is critical, or the "right way" to glue the bulb into the nock. He also has the technique down for Easton Axis arrows.
> 
> After trying the YouTube way, I decided that I like the "Revoarcher" way better because of these features. With the YouTube way it's very easy to over-sand the forward nock section that fits into the shaft. If it slides into the shaft too easily, then you have to build it up to fit tight. You also have to be sure of the nock alignment before inserting the lighted nock into the shaft.
> 
> ...


You can drill a hole through the nock for more light if you want to. I just dont like putting to many holes in the nock weakening it more. I made one that way and one side of the nock broke off. It was like dry firing and made a lot of noise. I just dont want to be blamed for selling something that is unsafe.


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

ttt


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## Firenock (Nov 5, 2006)

*Safety and nock colors*



revoarcher said:


> You can drill a hole through the nock for more light if you want to. I just dont like putting to many holes in the nock weakening it more. I made one that way and one side of the nock broke off. It was like dry firing and made a lot of noise. I just dont want to be blamed for selling something that is unsafe.


I fully agree that it is sort of dangerous to drill a hole too. Nock company all try to make the nock light weight, and there is barely enough material to make it safe. To top it off, by adding a hole, the inner guts of the lighted nock system is now totally expose to the elements (blood, rain, moisture, just to name a few.)



Ancient Archer said:


> After comparing a red light in a red translucent nock vs. a green light in a green translucent nock, I found the green/green to be brighter than the red/red.


As for colors, each to his/her own. In many cases, due to different level of color blindness of the archer and back ground, one color may be better than the other. That is why we at firenock give you no less than 54 colors of light, in 2 models each (hunting and target). And each allow you to field change the nock and the battery.
If a simple lighted nock is all you need, and you do not really need it to work all the time, I really do not think that is a least expensive way than DIY lighted nocks. With many way to make or acquire lighted nock, this season we shall see a lot of lighted nock in the woods at work.


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

thanks for the color chart, firenock!


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

ttt


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

ttt


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## jeremy5780 (Aug 10, 2008)

*Cheapest light on the net*

6 led replacment lights (same as thill bobber lights) 6 for 14.99 with 5.00 shipping. cheapest find anywhere on the net and you get them in a day or two. I just ordered a pack they are the push pull lights to make your own nocks!!!

http://www.hawglite.com/order.html


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

ttt


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## jeremy5780 (Aug 10, 2008)

anyone make one of these doing the melt method where you heat a needle or nail and push it through to melt it rather than glue? I tried one today. I got the sewing needle red hot then pushed it through but it will only get about half way before the needle cools and gets stuck. What am I doing wrong?


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## Firenock (Nov 5, 2006)

*heat capacity*



jeremy5780 said:


> anyone make one of these doing the melt method where you heat a needle or nail and push it through to melt it rather than glue? I tried one today. I got the sewing needle red hot then pushed it through but it will only get about half way before the needle cools and gets stuck. What am I doing wrong?


In order to do that right, you need to get a cheap soldering iron and shape the head the way you want it to. Most polycarbonate nocks will suck up so much heat energy you will get about half way and the needle will already be too cool to the point it will not work. Or you can use a very thick needle that contain enough heat energy to do the job.

FYI, you also need to deal with the material that got push out by the melting process. Make sure you chip it out instead of drilling it. Drill process is guarantee to put micro crack on the nock. When temperature drops, the IZOD factors of the polycarbonate will do the unthinkable; the nock will crack when you snap it on the string (like putting a score on glass) and you may dry fire your bow while the nock crack in 2.


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

thanks for the info!!!


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## Afree (Sep 20, 2007)

the thill lights, work awesome!


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## seatec (Jun 22, 2009)

Great idea. Wayne


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

ttt


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## atka (Mar 29, 2009)

What is the easiest way for this the glue or needle?


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## Greenstick (Jun 8, 2009)

I've made 5 of these lighted nocks so far and 3 have worked fine, 1 got glued together, and the last was a dud right out of the package. On the last one that I made I used a soldering iron and I was pretty happy with the results. IMHO the melt technique seems to be more precise and less chance to damage the light.
If you do not have a soldering iron, if you used a 1" or bigger nail, filed it to a sharp point and heated it, it should have enough mass to retain heat long enough to to the job. Also, I am thinking that if a guy were to modify a pair of pliers, you could just heat the jaws and give the nock a quick pinch to seal in the light and voila!


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## Firenock (Nov 5, 2006)

*neither*



atka said:


> What is the easiest way for this the glue or needle?


Nail for sure, if not solder iron. Needle too thin to hold heat. Glue take away too much light.


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## atjunkie (Jul 18, 2006)

jeremy5780 said:


> anyone make one of these doing the melt method where you heat a needle or nail and push it through to melt it rather than glue? I tried one today. I got the sewing needle red hot then pushed it through but it will only get about half way before the needle cools and gets stuck. What am I doing wrong?


Try using a jig head that you fish with, with the hook straightened out. Sharpen it right good. The lead will give you alittle bit of a handle. Much stronger than a pin.


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## Nobby (Feb 19, 2007)

*lighted nocks*

Anyone out there know where to buy these batteries in western Canada for cheap. I was at Cabales on the weekend and three Luminocks were $30us. WOW, I am sure us Canadians can do better then that.
Thanks
Nobby


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## Greenstick (Jun 8, 2009)

You should be able to buy Thill replacement lights at any large fishing store. I purchase mine in Calgary at either Wholesale Sports or the Fishin' Hole.


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## aocasek (Oct 27, 2008)

great directions!


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## DaveHawk (Jul 16, 2009)

Hey !! Does anyone still shoot Aluminum Shafts?? I don't hear anyone commenting on aluminum shafts. I shoot aluminum with uni-bushings and nocks. I tried to make some of these home-made "luminoks" per the you-tube instructions with the Thill Nite Brite lights. Ok I got the nock glued to the light without messing up the switch action, but the uni bushing isn't very deep and the other "fit" part of the nock falls thru. I have a concentricity problem also. I don't know how you guys drill 3 sizes of holes in a nock ?? I don't have access to a precision machine shop. I have trouble holding a nock just to drill a small hole thru. Has anyone had success with uni-bushings and these home-made lighted nocks??


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## jimmyk (Oct 14, 2007)

I have 7 of these batteries/lights made by thill in green. I will take $30 tyd for them.


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## tonyb (Apr 12, 2006)

i have done the nocks where i drilled out the end for better light and glued in the battery and glued on the nock piece at the end of the battery. i went to a night shoot last night and they worked great until each one broke off one side of the nock after about 10 shots. so i don't think i will drill the end anymore but also want to try the needle seating method, but not sure where to insert the needle. could someone draw a diagram for me thanks, tony..


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## BowmanPa (Oct 26, 2006)

revoarcher said:


> I have a couple of questions for everyone who has made them the youtube way. After inserting the nock can you turn it to line up your feathers and can you easily remove it and put it in another arrow without wrecking the light and how many of you have 3 or 4 arrows just sitting at home only being used during hunting season because they have youtube lighted nocks in them? How many lights have you wrecked gluing them in the on position?


I have made about a dozen of the Youtube ones but I veried fro mit a little. I do not glue the battery into the arrow like they say to. I sand down another nock (the nock it's self cut off) till it is a snug fit, I do glue the battery into the one I sanded down. I don't glue it to the lighted end because I shoot Fobs! I push the battery into the shaft carefully using the nock till it is all most seated. I have the nock drill out so the light part fits snug enough to be able shut off the light when I am shooting Traget but pops off and stays lite during a pass through. I enjoy making my own lighted nocks and are a lot cheaper too!


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

tonyb said:


> i have done the nocks where i drilled out the end for better light and glued in the battery and glued on the nock piece at the end of the battery. i went to a night shoot last night and they worked great until each one broke off one side of the nock after about 10 shots. so i don't think i will drill the end anymore but also want to try the needle seating method, but not sure where to insert the needle. could someone draw a diagram for me thanks, tony..


check out post #33, that should help you out.


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

ttt


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

ttt


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## revoarcher (Jul 18, 2006)

Sales have been going great. So I dont have to do this but I love skeptics. I know the youtube way has been around for a long time and it is hard to teach an old dog new tricks, but I think the youtube way is obsolete. So here is a link to the revoarcher lighted nocks. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=861153
Check it out and the first two people that pm me I will send them to you for free. Just let me and everyone else know what you think. ONLY TWO. I will post when I have the two.


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## revoarcher (Jul 18, 2006)

revoarcher said:


> Sales have been going great. So I dont have to do this but I love skeptics. I know the youtube way has been around for a long time and it is hard to teach an old dog new tricks, but I think the youtube way is obsolete. So here is a link to the revoarcher lighted nocks. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=861153
> Check it out and the first two people that pm me I will send them to you for free. Just let me and everyone else know what you think. ONLY TWO. I will post when I have the two.


Two pms received so no more free ones. Thanks


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

dang! how the heck did I miss that?? I don't mind makin them the YouTube way, though.


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## gjohnson (Jul 27, 2009)

When you use the needle method, what is the goal? Are you trying to melt the nock and light collar together? I tried the super glue method and it worked until the glue expanded or something then it was glued in the off position. 

Thanks


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

gjohnson said:


> When you use the needle method, what is the goal? Are you trying to melt the nock and light collar together?
> Thanks


yes


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## DaveHawk (Jul 16, 2009)

*Home made lighted nock (New Design) These Work !!*

I have designed a home-made lighted nock to work in aluminum shafts with super-uni bushings. There is no fitting to be done to the nock. They are totally self-contained with no fragile exposed contacts. The nock does not need to move at all to actuate the LED. They can be installed and removed just as easily as a normal nock. You can index your fletching as you normally would. These are a much more durable and dependable design than the others, and much easier to make. I have tried the you-tube methods and Revoarcher's design with limited success. Those designs work better for carbon where my concept was designed for aluminum shafts with super-uni bushings. If you would like to build your own lighted nocks for your aluminum arrows for less than half price, send me a PM. I am selling my instructions along with a diagram for $5. I accept Paypal only. I will send your instructions and diagram as attachments to an e-mail as soon as the Paypal payment is made. Thanks and Good Hunting Dave


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