# hot melt adhesive for inserts?



## eflanders (Dec 8, 2007)

I have decided that I want to use hot melt adhesive for installing inserts because of the elasticity hot-melt offers. Can I use the glue from a standard hot melt glue gun or does it have to be a specialized hot-melt glue?


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## fletched (May 10, 2006)

Look on www.lancasterarchery.com at the cdm hot melt glue.


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## TN ARCHER (Jan 31, 2007)

I have never had great results with standard hot glue sticks. I use Circut Archery brand hot melt. Never had a problem.


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## WarrenB (Oct 24, 2009)

Don't use hot melt in carbon arrows .... lost 3 points in 3 days .... uggghhh. Will get back to you on what I'm using now, when I get home.


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## nycredneck (Nov 9, 2007)

I use the sticks that came with the hot glue gun. I made some AXIS yesterday and shooting Thunderhead broadheads with no problems so far. They are really hard to pull out and the inserts are still holding up. I run a .22cal bore brush in the shaft then swab it with acetone then glue in the inserts making sure the glue gets all around the inside of the shaft and covers the whole insert. Works for me.


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## subconsciously (Aug 22, 2009)

I swab with alcohol and a q-tip. I then use goat tuff glue. Works great. I have also used 2-part epoxy on carbons. I only use hot melt on aluminums.

my .02


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## bowhunterprime (Jan 28, 2009)

I've been using hot mealt for most of this year for inserts and pin nock bushings and I've only have one insert come out on me (probably one of the first ones I did and messed up). I just bought the standard hot mealt from bowhunterssuperstore.com. Five sticks for $1.49. I've only used one so far. They last forever but then I don't own a bow shop either! -Chris


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## WarrenB (Oct 24, 2009)

Had the shop do my inserts, blegghh, now doing my own.

Clean with rubbing alcohol, let dry & then use Bohning Archery Powerbond. Use a filter mask with the stuff its a cyanate based glue & stinks like crazy. Also keep it off the skin, not so good for you when wet.

Let it set for 24hrs & you need to cut it out of the shaft.

No problems with tips getting lost anymore.


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## SandSquid (Sep 2, 2008)

I am a big fan of hot-melt on my "utility" arrows, for example the 10 dozen Easton 1816's for my Youth Group, etc.

But when it comes to getting points to really stick forever in my Victory X-Ringer_HV and now Mrs. Squids' NanoForce arrows the only thing I found I can realy on 100% is HIT Epoxy, and I don’t even use the QuickHIT, it's now the 2-part HIT epoxy or nothing. Everything else pulls out, eventually. And Yes, the shafts are absolutely clean! The interior of all my Victory arrows are mirror smooth and I prep them up w/ a appropriate sized bore brush in an appropriate solvent.


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## yakstone (Jun 30, 2008)

I have been using hot melt glue from Apple for a year now and have had no issues at all.


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## eflanders (Dec 8, 2007)

I have used all of the liquid glues before and it is easy and convenient when properly prepared but the inserts will never come out. Sometimes when an arrow goes into a tree or something, I would prefer to have the insert come out to salvage the arrow. This is why I am using the hot-melt adhesive now. 

I like the convenience/idea of using a glue gun as you don't have to use a torch for melting the adhesive. I've used the standard Bohning hot melt insert adhesive with good luck but it is kinda messy and a pain to use as the sticks do not fit into a hot glue gun. 

*I am mainly wondering if the hot-melt sticks that come with a glue gun will work as well as say the Bohning hot melt?*


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## caspian (Jan 13, 2009)

I would very much advise against using hot melt glue gun sticks. the glue is designed for craftwork. stick with the Bohning or Easton glue and you will not go wrong. a torch is a minor outlay in terms of the total expense of your gear, get the right tools and see the benefits.


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## Screamin Bull (Oct 25, 2009)

Clean with denatured alcohol and use Gorilla Glue it is easier and provides the same elasticity as hot melt.


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## SandSquid (Sep 2, 2008)

Screamin Bull said:


> Clean with denatured alcohol and use Gorilla Glue it is easier and provides the same elasticity as hot melt.


I have found the key to Gorilla Glue is you need just the tiniest amount of moisture to activate it and the smallest drops of glue to prevent excessive foam-out.

Clean the shaft as normal, then dip the end in clean water (distilled water, if you are OCD, like me;-) and let air dry. Even though it's "dry" there will be enough moisture left to activate. 

Then I apply 3 drops, and ONLY 3 drops, of glue using the tip of a toothpick to the far end of the insert (the part that goes in the shaft first) and twist it back and forth as I inset it into the shaft and then stand the shaft up on point end overnight.

In the morning it is ready to shoot and the bond is almost as strong and resilient as a 24-hour epoxy.


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## summertime (Jul 28, 2010)

Would a commerical adhesive work for this job? I think Dow Corning has reliable silicone adhesives that last a long time. I would suggest checking them out.
http://www.dowcorning.com/content/iam/iamsealants/


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## zSar (Jul 30, 2010)

Hi guys... sorry I dont mean to hijack the thread... I used epoxy to glue the inserts. Is that bad..? ukey:


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## WV Switchback (Jul 26, 2010)

WarrenB said:


> Don't use hot melt in carbon arrows .... lost 3 points in 3 days .... uggghhh. Will get back to you on what I'm using now, when I get home.


same problem, my broadhead target has a couple broadheads stuck inside it now


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## corbin9191 (Aug 11, 2010)

I have used the hot-melt a couple times and I can honestly say that I am not very impressed. The inserts just keep falling out.


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## nycredneck (Nov 9, 2007)

You must be doing something wrong. I have even passed through my my block and into a tree and they still don't come out. Unless it's buried deep, but even with epoxy you would have to snap the arrow getting it out. Perhaps you guy's are not cleaning the inside with 90% alcohol or acetone?


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