# Few questions about field archery



## bishjr (Aug 1, 2008)

I will start off by saying that I have never shoot field before, but it sounds every interesting to me. I am just kind of wondering what kind of classes are available to shoot in, what is a recommended setup for a beginner, and what are some of the rules. I know these may sound like dumb questions, but I am a 3D shooter looking to open up to different shooting. Any kind of help would be great. Thank you, and again I am sorry if these are dumb questions.


----------



## Crazy4Centaurs (Feb 8, 2010)

ccasion5:There is no such thing as a dumb question .......:smile:


bishjr said:


> I will start off by saying that I have never shoot field before, but it sounds every interesting to me. I am just kind of wondering what kind of classes are available to shoot in, what is a recommended setup for a beginner, and what are some of the rules. I know these may sound like dumb questions, but I am a 3D shooter looking to open up to different shooting. Any kind of help would be great. Thank you, and again I am sorry if these are dumb questions.


----------



## IGluIt4U (Sep 22, 2004)

Good questions.... NFAA field is divided into classes so you can shoot your 3D rig in BHFS, or you can go all out and shoot Freestyle, where anything goes.. I'd say shoot what you have and get a feel for the game first, then go from there. 

Here are a couple of links that will help to explain the game we play... :thumb:

http://www.nfaa-archery.org/field/info.cfm

http://www.nfaa-archery.org/field/styles.cfm


----------



## bishjr (Aug 1, 2008)

I have an HHA, and the way Im reading this is that I would be put into open or freestyle class. Thank you everyone for the information on this style of shooting. I wont be able to participate in a round until new year, but will definitly be giving this a try. Can I ask how big is the target at 80 yards? I dont shoot that kind of distance to opften and want to make sure I am not getting in over my head.


----------



## Spoon13 (Feb 20, 2007)

bishjr said:


> I have an HHA, and the way Im reading this is that I would be put into open or freestyle class. Thank you everyone for the information on this style of shooting. I wont be able to participate in a round until new year, but will definitly be giving this a try. Can I ask how big is the target at 80 yards? I dont shoot that kind of distance to opften and want to make sure I am not getting in over my head.


I just measured it out.

The 5-ring on that face is over 5" in diameter. The 4-ring is over 15" in diameter.

Truthfully though, you will only shoot 2 shots at 80 in a full round. You also have 2 shots at 70 at the same size face. Don't focus on that. The majority of shots are between 40 and 65 yards. THAT'S where you need to focus. There are plenty of other places to give away points besides the 80 and 70.

If you don't feel comfortable shooting that far yet, DON'T!!! For someone just starting to shoot Field, shoot what you feel comfortable shooting and don't worry about the rest until you get some experience under your belt. Everybody I've shot with would not have said a word if I didn't want to shoot a particular target. Okay, I'm pretty sure they would have but it wouldn't have been in a condescending manner, more of a jabbing with a pointy stick picking on me manner.:chortle:


----------



## SCarson (Apr 13, 2008)

bishjr said:


> Can I ask how big is the target at 80 yards? I dont shoot that kind of distance to opften and want to make sure I am not getting in over my head.


The 80 yd target face is 65 cm, or about 25.5 inches. The same size is used for over 55 yards. From 54 to 35 yards, a 50 cm (19.6 inches) face is used. From 24 to 14 yards, a 35 cm (13.7 inches) face is used. For the bunny, a 20 cm (7.8 inches) face is used.

For rough estimates, the center 5 spot is roughly 10 percent of the target face size.


----------



## pragmatic_lee (Jan 19, 2008)

SCarson said:


> The 80 yd target face is 65 cm, or about 25.5 inches. The same size is used for over 55 yards. From 54 to 35 yards, a 50 cm (19.6 inches) face is used. From 24 to 14 yards, a 35 cm (13.7 inches) face is used. For the bunny, a 20 cm (7.8 inches) face is used.
> 
> For rough estimates, the center 5 spot is roughly *10 percent* of the target face size.


Don't you mean 20%?
65 cm - 13 cm 5 ring = 20%
50 cm - 10 cm 5 ring = 20%
35 cm - 7 cm 5 ring = 20%
20 cm - 4 cm 5 ring = 20%

X ring is 50% of the 5 ring


----------



## montigre (Oct 13, 2008)

Beat me to it Lee, I was twisting my brain around in all kinds of contortions trying to figure out how 10% would work....


----------



## pragmatic_lee (Jan 19, 2008)

montigre said:


> Beat me to it Lee, I was twisting my brain around in all kinds of contortions trying to figure out how 10% would work....


I'm just hoping Carson doesn't see our replies before his "edit" time runs out.  Not often you get to catch Steve in a math error.


----------



## BAArcher (Feb 5, 2004)

You need to give it a go, I did am now hooked!


----------



## psargeant (Aug 1, 2004)

pragmatic_lee said:


> I'm just hoping Carson doesn't see our replies before his "edit" time runs out.  Not often you get to catch Steve in a math error.


:nod:


----------



## bishjr (Aug 1, 2008)

Thank you. I am confortable shooting 80 yards to a point, but am by no means good. I was looking at some Victory nano's to start with for arrows. What is the common feeling on these arrows for field?


----------



## pragmatic_lee (Jan 19, 2008)

psargeant said:


> :nod:


Might just give Mac a call and see if he can print some targets with the 5 ring only being 10% of total diameter. Would love to see Carson's face when he walked up to one of them at the S+W birdie.


----------



## psargeant (Aug 1, 2004)

bishjr said:


> Thank you. I am confortable shooting 80 yards to a point, but am by no means good. I was looking at some Victory nano's to start with for arrows. What is the common feeling on these arrows for field?


I'm shooting them right now. I've had a couple problems with them so far, but i think it was more something that was done to the arrow than the arrow itself...

They are pretty consistant and seem to fly good, but don't have quite as many different spines as say an ACC. You also need to take a file to "blunt" the points a bit...

If you fit in the sweet spot of one of their spines, you're good to go, if not expect some tuning work.


----------



## psargeant (Aug 1, 2004)

pragmatic_lee said:


> Might just give Mac a call and see if he can print some targets with the 5 ring only being 10% of total diameter. Would love to see Carson's face when he walked up to one of them at the S+W birdie.


That is all we should let him shoot for awhile...:nod:


----------



## bishjr (Aug 1, 2008)

psargeant said:


> I'm shooting them right now. I've had a couple problems with them so far, but i think it was more something that was done to the arrow than the arrow itself...
> 
> They are pretty consistant and seem to fly good, but don't have quite as many different spines as say an ACC. You also need to take a file to "blunt" the points a bit...
> 
> If you fit in the sweet spot of one of their spines, you're good to go, if not expect some tuning work.


Okay, the reason I ask about them is simply that they seem to be easier for me to find at this point at a lower price. I understand you get what you pay for. Is there any other shafts you would recommend that are cheaper then $65 a half dozen?


----------



## Spoon13 (Feb 20, 2007)

bishjr said:


> Okay, the reason I ask about them is simply that they seem to be easier for me to find at this point at a lower price. I understand you get what you pay for. Is there any other shafts you would recommend that are cheaper then $65 a half dozen?


You can always just shoot what you got for now. When I shot my first couple of rounds, I was shooting Fatboys. 

Unless of course you are just "needing" to buy some more arrows.:wink:


----------



## SCarson (Apr 13, 2008)

pragmatic_lee said:


> Might just give Mac a call and see if he can print some targets with the 5 ring only being 10% of total diameter. Would love to see Carson's face when he walked up to one of them at the S+W birdie.





psargeant said:


> That is all we should let him shoot for awhile...:nod:


That's right. Keep pokin the bear!! olarbear:


----------



## pragmatic_lee (Jan 19, 2008)

SCarson said:


> That's right. Keep pokin the bear!! olarbear:


Man you know I don't play, heck I quit school ’cause of recess


----------



## Spoon13 (Feb 20, 2007)

SCarson said:


> That's right. Keep pokin the bear!! olarbear:


Ooh ooh, can I play??

:boink:


----------



## golfingguy27 (Oct 15, 2008)

Don't be afraid of the Victory Nanoforces. They are what I bought to get myself into field this year and I have no complaints about them at all. Sarge is about the only one I have heard of that has had any issues, and as he mentioned, there is a reason why his did what they did. One thought though.. you mentioned a half dozen price. If you are intending to buy only a half dozen, you may want to re think that. I would never hit the course with only 6 arrows. You need 4 arrows to shoot at each target, and with sometimes 16 arrows being shot into the same dot, there IS going to be some damage happening at some point during a round, so 1 or 2 arrows could very easily be taken out of commission. Any more than that, and you no longer have enough shootable arrows to finish the round. By the way, don't get scared by me talking about arrows getting damaged. 90% of the time it is either a pin nock that needs replaced, or an arrow that needs re fletched. Nothing expensive, just may be more than you can/want to do on course during a round.


----------



## MGB (Dec 21, 2008)

1) Don't worry about the distances. It's known distance, you just have to figure the cuts and wind. I'm a novice and I definitely miss more targets shooting 3D, bowhunter than I do shooting field. One of the best part about field archery for me is shooting the long shots and watching the arrow arc to the target.:darkbeer: Actually, I heard that the 50 yd target has the smallest MOA. I'm not sure and I don't feel like doing the math right now.
2) Alot of people shoot Victory Nanoforces with great success. Alot of people shoot A/C/C's with great success. Any other decent smaller diameter hunting arrow would work just fine to start with.


----------



## MGB (Dec 21, 2008)

*I lied*

Here's the minutes of arc for the 5 ring at the longest distance shot for each sized target face:
4 cm. @ 35 ft. = 12.89 M.O.A.
7 cm. @ 24 yd. = 10.97 M.O.A.
10 cm. @ 54 yd. = 6.96 M.O.A.
13 cm. @ 80 yd. = 6.11 M.O.A.

So, the 80 yd. is the toughest shot, but still very doable.


----------



## TNMAN (Oct 6, 2009)

*picky, picky*

Use 32 and 53 for the middle two longest distances. 80 is still the hardest though.


----------



## bishjr (Aug 1, 2008)

Spoon13 said:


> You can always just shoot what you got for now. When I shot my first couple of rounds, I was shooting Fatboys.
> 
> Unless of course you are just "needing" to buy some more arrows.:wink:


Im kind of looking for an excuse of needing more arrows.  I do have 3 easton flatliners, but have issues shooting them for some reason. 

Is there a specific speed limit, or is it whatever speed your bow shoots?


----------



## CHPro (May 21, 2002)

There is a speed limit in NFAA-sanctioned tournaments (i.e. State, Sectional, Nationals), 300fps w/, I believe, a 3% margin (makes the max speed something like 309fps if you stretch things to the limit).

>>------>


----------



## bishjr (Aug 1, 2008)

CHPro said:


> There is a speed limit in NFAA-sanctioned tournaments (i.e. State, Sectional, Nationals), 300fps w/, I believe, a 3% margin (makes the max speed something like 309fps if you stretch things to the limit).
> 
> >>------>


Okay, well I dont even have an arrow that goes that fast right now so I am not to woried. Is anyone familiar with Forge arrows? I messed around with one the other day, and they looked seemed like a qulity arrow.


----------



## LoneEagle0607 (Jan 15, 2008)

pragmatic_lee said:


> I'm just hoping Carson doesn't see our replies before his "edit" time runs out.  Not often you get to catch Steve in a math error.


That's true. He must of had a brain fart:set1_rolf2:


----------



## psargeant (Aug 1, 2004)

bishjr said:


> Okay, the reason I ask about them is simply that they seem to be easier for me to find at this point at a lower price. I understand you get what you pay for. Is there any other shafts you would recommend that are cheaper then $65 a half dozen?


I think the victorys are a good choice. I just picked up more of them myself so please don't see my comments as not in support of those arrows. There are very few things I have found in this game that work perfect "out of the box" unfortunately. It's sad really for what things cost... When I do give an opinion, I try to share the good and the bad.

You are going to need more than 6 arrows, so go ahead and buy a dozen.

Since you asked, I will give you a list of other options though. All prices will be based off of LAS catalog, I am leaving vanes and nocks out of the equation, and I will never recommend an arrow with more than a +/- .003 straightness tolerance:

So to start this rodeo- Victory Nano Force (now armor piercing) V3- 
Shafts- $115, points- $24, Pin bushings- $12- Total cost 1 dozen arrows: *$151*

Carbon Express Maximas
Shafts - 130, Easton CB points- 10, Easton CB bushings- 13- total *$153* but you save more than the $2 back because pin nocks are way more than g-nocks...

Easton ACCs
Shafts- $135, points- 14, bushings included- total *$149* great arrow and recommended if you don't hit the sweet spot for spine in one of the others...

Easton Litespeed/Litespeed 3-d with g uni-bushing
Shafts- $85/$120 points $13, *total- $98/$133*

There are several others, but I am running out of time..

If you're looking to stay in that price range, I would say take a good hard look at the ACCs before you make a decision. They're going to be heavier, but it is hard to beat their durability and consistancy...


----------



## bishjr (Aug 1, 2008)

psargeant said:


> I think the victorys are a good choice. I just picked up more of them myself so please don't see my comments as not in support of those arrows. There are very few things I have found in this game that work perfect "out of the box" unfortunately. It's sad really for what things cost... When I do give an opinion, I try to share the good and the bad.
> 
> You are going to need more than 6 arrows, so go ahead and buy a dozen.
> 
> ...



Hmmm, I like the price of the Easton Litespeed's the best. I have plenty of vanes now, so I am not to woried about that. I also know where I can get a good deal on them. Thank you very much for your time and effort on helping me with trying to find the best arrows.


----------



## field14 (May 21, 2002)

CHPro said:


> There is a speed limit in NFAA-sanctioned tournaments (i.e. State, Sectional, Nationals), 300fps w/, I believe, a 3% margin (makes the max speed something like 309fps if you stretch things to the limit).
> 
> >>------>


Don't forget the 80 pound maximum draw weight limit as well as the 300 fps speed limit.

I hear tell that there are quite a few shooters that are shooting field at 330 fps+, but of course, aren't competing in SANCTIONED NFAA shoots, or if they are, nobody is saying anything to them about it.

field14 (Tom D.)


----------



## MGB (Dec 21, 2008)

Litespeeds will be great arrows to start with. Whatever (small diameter) shoots consistently from your bow will be fine. However, for just a few more $, you could get the cadillac A/C/C's. I have absolutely loved shooting A/C/C's this year for my first year in fields. I liked them so much, I switched my hunting arrows from CX Maxima hunters (excellent arrows) to A/C/C pro huntings this year:darkbeer:


----------



## CHPro (May 21, 2002)

bishjr, if interested in getting your feet wet this year yet on a field round, Spent Shaft Archers in Wisconsin Rapids is hosting a final field round for the year on Sun., Aug 29. Shotgun start at 10a.m. (means everyone is assigned to a target, gun goes off at 10a and everyone starts shooting). Great group of folks usually show up to shoot this one. Laid back crowd and always willing to help show a field newbie the ropes without requiring all the rules be memorized up front, etc..

>>----->


----------



## bishjr (Aug 1, 2008)

MGB said:


> Litespeeds will be great arrows to start with. Whatever (small diameter) shoots consistently from your bow will be fine. However, for just a few more $, you could get the cadillac A/C/C's. I have absolutely loved shooting A/C/C's this year for my first year in fields. I liked them so much, I switched my hunting arrows from CX Maxima hunters (excellent arrows) to A/C/C pro huntings this year:darkbeer:


If I wasnt on a shoe string budget with being in college, I would definitly get the A/C/C's. Then again I have always had issues shooting small diameter shafts, and it might simply be because im not sure if my arrows are properly spined. Could someone PM me to OT2 to help figure out the best spined arrow for me? :embara:


----------



## psargeant (Aug 1, 2004)

bishjr said:


> If I wasnt on a shoe string budget with being in college, I would definitly get the A/C/C's. Then again I have always had issues shooting small diameter shafts, and it might simply be because im not sure if my arrows are properly spined. Could someone PM me to OT2 to help figure out the best spined arrow for me? :embara:


Just use the Easton chart...you'll be within a whisper when its all said and done...

Use about the middle of you draw weight range that way you've got leeway on either side...

If you send me specs, I can punch them in for you...I need:
Draw weight
Draw length
Bow model and year and type of cams

Won't take long if you catch me at the right time...


----------

