# Potential horse bow buyer



## Todd the archer (Feb 7, 2003)

Attilas archery has u-finish-it horsebows. Was thinking of getting one myself. The price seems very reasonable.

http://www.attilasarchery.com/shop/

Todd


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## dryhte (Oct 16, 2012)

Your profile doesn't say where you're from...

Here's a horse bow I'm interested in myself. it's 199€ though, so it's just north of your price range...

http://home.falco.ee/products_eng/falco_bows/storm/

There are dozens of youtube reviews of this bow, it's quite popular in Europe.


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## Archerbear (Jan 2, 2013)

Thanks for that link! Now I haven't seen a U Finish bow before. I understand the concept, but what does it mean exactly when it says it must be sealed? Do I slather it with paint and just fashion my own leather handle?


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## LittleJP (Nov 4, 2012)

I can vouch for Grozer's work. I usually deal the guys at classic bows .com


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## Todd the archer (Feb 7, 2003)

Archerbear, I think it means like you said just put a finish on it and a handle wrap if you want.

Todd


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## AngelDeVille (May 9, 2012)

I love my Attila U-Finish


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## Albrecht Kurze (Aug 23, 2012)

Is that the straight handle version? How do you like it? 
I'm working with Attila at the moment to be sure what set up I need.
Looking forward to trying his bow and learning thumb draw.

Albrecht


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## AngelDeVille (May 9, 2012)

The handle came shaped from Attila.

I really love this bow, I'm anxious to try one of his finished bows, I'm really liking the hunter model.


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## J-san (Oct 12, 2004)

Nice video, AngelDeVille. That is a very handsome bow! I'm going to order a U-finish one since they have them on sale now. Was it difficult to learn to use a thumb draw? Any issues with shooting off your knuckle? Like getting cuts from the feather quills?


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## AngelDeVille (May 9, 2012)

I took to thumb draw rather easily, still the best "tab" I use is the leather one I made in about 10 minutes. I have a horn and brass one but I like the feel of the leather.

As for shooting off the knuckle, the best advice I can give it to have your nock point a touch high. The arrow almost bounces off your knuckle before the fletching gets to it.

I also added the "locator" to the handle to make sure I have a consistant grip on the bow.

The only fletching precaution I use is a dab of glue on the leading tip of the feather.


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## JhoneilC (Aug 30, 2007)

I bought a bow from this guy recently :http://www.cinnabarbow.org/marinerbows/bows.html







$355 including shipping.


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## KRW (Oct 30, 2011)

Saluki bows has some nice horse bows


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## Albrecht Kurze (Aug 23, 2012)

I placed my order for a U-Finish Horsebow with Attila's Archery Monday. I received an e-mail Friday afternoon that my bow was complete. It should be showing up here in a couple days. I think that's pretty awesome turnaround time for a built to spec bow. All it requires is a polyurethane coating, though I plan to spice it up a little more than that myself. And the price right now is $150 plus shipping (mine came out to about $165).


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## J-san (Oct 12, 2004)

I'm hoping to get my U-finish bow within the next week or so. I'm planning on trying a Minwax ebony stain and stitching a leather grip. I agree, I think the price is pretty good.


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## AngelDeVille (May 9, 2012)

J-san add a couple coats of spar urethane on top of the minwax and you'll be golden


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## woodpecker1 (Sep 6, 2012)

that is cool


dryhte said:


> Your profile doesn't say where you're from...
> 
> Here's a horse bow I'm interested in myself. it's 199€ though, so it's just north of your price range...
> 
> ...


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## J-san (Oct 12, 2004)

AngelDeVille said:


> J-san add a couple coats of spar urethane on top of the minwax and you'll be golden


Thanks. Just got a notice saying my bow has shipped. Hoping to see it this week for a weekend project.


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## J-san (Oct 12, 2004)

Got my horse bow and took some initial shots with it. A bit of hand shock, but it seems to fling an arrow with some speed. My initial observation is how weak my current arrows behave out of this bow. Draw weight is the same as the rest of my longbows and recurves and I shoot the same way - 3 under. I use Gold Tip 3555 at full length (30") and with 125gr. points. Both fletched and bareshafts fishtail significantly with bareshafts going more wild. At 10 yards, fletched shafts can attain a group but bareshafts impact at almost 45 degrees indicating weak (I am right handed). I tried some 5575 bareshafts with 100gr. points (used for my hunting compound) and those still impacted with points right and nocks left, although indicating less weak than the 3555s. I do not have any stiffer shafts, but I am thinking of getting some 7590s to try from the local shop. 

It is normal for a horse bow shot off the knuckle to require such a stiff shaft? There is no shelf and the centershot is way out to the left. I want to get some wood arrows for this bow, but with the arrow spine issue, I am not sure what spine I would need now. Any recommendations? Thanks.


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## Albrecht Kurze (Aug 23, 2012)

Are you going of what Atilla marked it as or have you measured the weight at your draw length? 
I got mine this week as well. Scheduling and weather has prevented me from loosing anything from it yet.
He marked mine as #53 @ 30", which is what I ordered. I haven't put the scales on it yet, but drawing it seems harder than I thought it should. It feels like I'm hitting a brick wall at about 26" - 27". 
I'll get a real weight on it tomorrow. Might even give it a few shots to see if my results are similar.

Albrecht


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## J-san (Oct 12, 2004)

Haven't taken it to the shop to weigh it yet but it feels very close to what my measured bows draw at the same draw length. I draw to 27" and it feels pretty smooth without stacking. I asked for a 29" draw in case I try a thumb draw. 

I did an experiment with some weaker .600 spine shafts from this bow and they actually flew better! I only had fletched arrows, but it was obvious they spanned my 10yd. home range with minimal fishtailing. Really weird how the .500 spine 3555s indicated weak with bareshafts but .600 spine shafts flew well. I suppose there may be something different about shooting bows that lack a window and have extreme offset centershot? Wonder if I ought to continue trying stiffer shafts or look into getting more .600 spine shafts.


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## Albrecht Kurze (Aug 23, 2012)

Never thought of that before you said this. I guess that makes sense. Looking at the spine chart from 3rivers archery ( http://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/ArrowCharts.pdf ) it shows centershots on the left and longbows/selfbows (non-centershot) on the right. Notice the weight difference you'd need in the two bows to shoot shafts of a similar spine and point weight. I presume this is to allow the flex required in paradox to clear the riser. Being this is only me second bow and first without a cut arrow shelf, it didn't even cross my mind...


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## AngelDeVille (May 9, 2012)

You will need weaker arrows, without a cutout. Or you can add some more weight to the points of your current arrows.


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## J-san (Oct 12, 2004)

Thanks. Yes, I think I figured out the stiffness needed for my horse bow and it is .600 spine. Spent the morning at the local range messing around with different spine shafts and a wide range of point weights. 125gr. points on a .600 spine shaft at full length (30") seems to work best. No matter what I do, I still get more fishtail of the arrows than from a centershot recurve, but they impact at point of aim and group. I guess extra side-to-side movement will always happen if shooting around a grip.


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