# DIY Third Hand Targets - Tips & Tricks, Do's and Don'ts, and Lessons Learned



## KRONIIK (Jun 3, 2014)

Timely post for me. 
I'm in the middle of building a 4'x4' target using Jim's skins.
I edge-glued 2-2x8s for a finished depth of about 13-1/2" after jointing the edges straight. 

I am having a real hard time getting myself convinced that chicken wire/poultry netting won't harm arrows, but you seem sincere enough that I'm going to take a leap of faith and use it.
The textile layering technique you suggest makes a lot of sense; I was thinking of filling mine like that despite having cut out a perfectly-fitting (tapered) fill hatch in the top!

I'm pretty sure Jim will tell us that it's unnecessary and a waste of time, but to go for it if we feel like doing it that way.

But what does he know, anyway? :chimpeep:



Thanks for posting this!


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## HoytinNH (May 27, 2012)

Great post thank you. I will be building a 4x4 version this spring. Other than removing all the metal and plastic from the clothes do you do anything thing else. I was wondering if I should cut the clothes so things lay better/flatter when layering them in the target. 

Thanks for the advise and tips.


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## mn.moose (Feb 11, 2013)

Why do you say that this is intended for outdoor use? I was going to build mine for a basement range to replace my hanging bags.


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## bokellaz (Apr 7, 2014)

Hoytin: You do not need to cut anything up, I just folded anything larger than the 4X4 opening into something that would fit.

mn.moose: Most people build these for outdoor use, they obviously will work great inside as well. Most of us just don't have space inside for a target this large :wink:. I was just giving tips for those of us who do put them outside and want to extend the life.


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## bokellaz (Apr 7, 2014)

One other tip I forgot to mention was about how to acquire 125 Lbs. of textiles: 

Option 1 - Go to a few garage sales that are selling clothes and ask them if they will be donating the clothes they do not sell. Many people do this. Leave them your number and offer to take everything they cant sell for $1.00 and that you will pick it up. Most people are happy just to get rid of the clothing.

Option 2 - Contact a linen company in your area and ask them. I was able to acquire all 125 Lbs. from a local linen company who were happy to give me unusable textiles. These were clean (bleached) towels and bed sheets that were slightly torn. Perfect for my application. They said that they have to pay to have them disposed, so giving them to me saved them money.

I first tried to get them from the Salvation Army and Goodwill, but they stated that they already donate any un-sellable clothing to third world countries. Maybe others do not, but in my area this was not an option. I also tried to get the wife to part with 1/100th of her borderline-hoarding-collection of clothes that she has not worn in 5 years, but that didn't go over so well either.


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## carpe_diem (Feb 19, 2012)

I would agree with everything said. I didn't use the chicken wire through. I used two layers of tyvek house wrap that I had on hand on both sides to create a skin tight barrier. Then I attached the third hand face. So far no sagging and minimal penetration. I build mine with out of 2x12. While heavy, it will last! I trimmed mine out with 2x2s. Caulked and painted it too. I purchased my textiles from local thrift store for .20 cents a pound. I used 200 pounds packed tight! When not shooting I covered it with a target tarp. Works great. I also use roofing nail caps to attach targets. The shanked nails hold well. Here is link to target tarp. 

http://shop.archerytargetcover.com


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## KRONIIK (Jun 3, 2014)

^ Very nice.
Your trim material looks to be a nominal 1x2 ( actual size~3/4" x 1-1/2"), not a 2x2, unless you ripped one lenthwise?


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## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

Some arrows take more stopping power than others. Smaller diameter arrows do penetrate way more the large diameter arrows.
When selling to the general public we give instructions for the average shooters. We can build a target that will stop a 400 grain arrow traveling 500 fps. But that same target will have bounce outs from kids bows, and other lighter poundage bows. Yes layering the clothing will stop more powerful and smaller diameter arrows. Chicken wire has been used for many years for rag targets without a solid face on it. As far as I know, it really doesn't hurt the arrow. Chicken wire can be stretched a couple inches much easier than skins.


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## KRONIIK (Jun 3, 2014)

^ Thanks for your input, Jim!

I shoot fairly heavy equipment and was concerned about making sure it would stop anything I threw at it for years to come.
But my kids will often be shooting with me, and I hadn't considered that their arrows might bounce out. 

Maybe I ought to make a thinner, softer target for them and mount it next to mine.

"Sigh"-keep making those target skins available-I'll probably be having to buy another set from you. 

BTW- I really hope to meet you in person in April at the Wisconsin Deer and Turkey Expo; you planning on being there all three days?


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## carpe_diem (Feb 19, 2012)

KRONIIK said:


> ^ Very nice.
> Your trim material looks to be a nominal 1x2 ( actual size~3/4" x 1-1/2"), not a 2x2, unless you ripped one lenthwise?


Yes I mis-spoke. They are 1x2's. Pin nailed them to to target.


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## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

KRONIIK said:


> ^ Thanks for your input, Jim!
> 
> I shoot fairly heavy equipment and was concerned about making sure it would stop anything I threw at it for years to come.
> But my kids will often be shooting with me, and I hadn't considered that their arrows might bounce out.
> ...


KRONIIK: If you have an old target with cotton fill just put a couple inches from the old target into the front and back of your layers. That will help bounce outs from the kids arrows.
We will be there at the madison show. Look forward to meeting you and some other AT'ers.


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## KRONIIK (Jun 3, 2014)

^ Great!


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## MandK (Jul 29, 2013)

Like how you layer, I'll have to try on my next build.
Thanks Mark


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## rduchateau2954 (Aug 21, 2013)

Don't try to get fancy and cut your boards at 45s. I had to brace mine after doing so.

Sent from my AS985 using Tapatalk


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## KRONIIK (Jun 3, 2014)

rduchateau2954 said:


> Don't try to get fancy and cut your boards at 45s. I had to brace mine after doing so.


Miter joints are *very* weak unless reinforced; probably the weakest joint in the world of woodworking.
But I used them in mine, with a couple#20 Biscuits in each of the joints, and clamped them up tight for three hours with a good dose of Titebond III waterproof Wood glue in them.
Also ran four 3" wood screws into each joint.

ROCK solid.


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## KRONIIK (Jun 3, 2014)

Biscuit Joinery Tutorial:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNd7I4OiOf8

Pertinent to this thread at around 10:30 if you want to skip the introductory info.


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## rduchateau2954 (Aug 21, 2013)

I know what a biscuit is but don't have a cutter. I had to brace my with L brackets.

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## IA Monsterbuck (Jul 18, 2006)

I have used shrink wrap with great results. Not as heavy as clothing and won't get moldy or absorb water. I made this mobile target so weight is a consideration.

Something I did differently is to add a board across the top. This was 3/4' plywood with a 2x4 for support. You can see in the pics I slotted the sides and attached eye bolts to the 2x4 and at the target base. When filled I attached a ratchet strap to each side and ratcheted it down to compress the filling. Then I could back off and add more filling. I compressed a few times till it was full to the top then left the straps on ratcheted tight. As things settle or you shoot a lot you can always give the ratchets another click to pack it tight again. I haven't had to do it often and have still not needed to add more shrink wrap.


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## rok1167 (Sep 20, 2007)

KRONIIK said:


> Miter joints are *very* weak unless reinforced; probably the weakest joint in the world of woodworking.
> But I used them in mine, with a couple#20 Biscuits in each of the joints, and clamped them up tight for three hours with a good dose of Titebond III waterproof Wood glue in them.
> Also ran four 3" wood screws into each joint.
> 
> ROCK solid.


I'm doing dovetails


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## KRONIIK (Jun 3, 2014)

^ 
I'll bet you'll have the only dovetailed target on the block. 
Maybe the only one on the Planet...

Post pics when it's finished!


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## macalister (May 16, 2016)

Great ideas here 

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