# How do you paint wooden arrow shafts?



## andylismore (Jul 17, 2013)

Hi all
I just got my first set of 12 blank cedar shafts, I understand that dipping is the best method or sealing but 
I had planned on colour painting them first, but i have no idea on the method used. Are they dipped in the big dipper tube full of paint
Or brushed or sprayed?. What is the best way for the cleanest and smoothest finish. 

Anybodies experiences or ideas would be much appreciated.
Thanks


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## reddogge (Jul 21, 2009)

The only experience I had with coloring the whole shaft was to dye them with aniline dye. I've painted caps but mask them off and spray paint them. I would imagine dipping would yield a more consistent paint finish.


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## Gapmaster (May 23, 2002)

Most guys crest with paint but I have seen arrows done with Krylon spray paint that looked pretty good with Minwax poly over the top. I saw another set and the guy crested them with colored sharpies and used a minwax poly over the top. I think there is a ton of ways to do them, but an important thing would be to use a shaft to experiment with to make sure all your stuff is compatible, so your colors don't run or blur, etc., and to make sure your fletching cement will glue your feathers to the shaft. Some glues will not work well with some finishes. I use the aniline dye on all my flu flu's in various colors. Test first.


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

There is probably no "best method" to do this, but there are many good methods that work very well. You can certainly spray paint the shaft. 

I'll post my method below that walks you through what I do for myself. A search across multiple forums will present you with lots of other methods. One will certainly strike your fancy. 

Good luck. And thus follows my formula:

*Thin Man’s Personal Technique for Processing Wooden Arrows*
_(Begged, borrowed, and stolen from “Nothing New Under the Sun” Enterprises, Ltd.)_

... Inspect, straighten, taper nocks and tips
... Smooth with either 600 grit or 0000 steel wool (only time sandpaper might be used)
... Color (if desired) with Minwax Oil Stain, leather dye, or paint ... dry 24 hours
... 0000 wool the stained shaft or dye ... not the paint

Minwax Oil-Based Wipe-On Poly (very minimal smell and off-gas in room)

... Playtex kitchen gloves
... Double-fold small square of paper towel
... Wet with poly
... Coat shaft with ridiculously thin layer of poly
... Let dry 12-24 hours depending upon weather (You can tell it is dry when it feels a tad “crusty” or squeezes “hard”. If it’s tacky or squeezes “soft” – it ain’t dry!)
... A gentle, non-aggressive 0000 steel wool to barely smooth it even

_Sometimes the first coats of poly will “fight” with the stain and not seem to dry. If so, just aggressively 0000 the poly nearly off and begin again ... it will take sooner or later._

... Second coat same procedure

Crest if desired after second or third coat (I use acrylic paint)

... At least four more coats of poly ... same procedure for each.

_If you’ve crested, go very easy with the 0000 wool over the crested area for the first couple of coats._

You’ll know you are done when the finish looks “deep” and glassy

... Nocks with Duco cement
... Fletch with Duco cement ... 20-30 minutes in the clamp per feather

_All Duco dries overnight before shooting_

... Tips with Ferr-L-Tite hot melt glue.


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## Gapmaster (May 23, 2002)

> There is probably no "best method" to do this, but there are many good methods that work very well. You can certainly spray paint the shaft.
> 
> I'll post my method below that walks you through what I do for myself. A search across multiple forums will present you with lots of other methods. One will certainly strike your fancy.
> 
> ...




Great Post !!


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

Thin Man spelled it out nicely, pretty much the same process as I use. 

I use some different materials but the steps are the same. I like a nice warm, golden brown stain for the bare wood under the first few coats of poly. I use Testor's model paints for my cresting over a white spray cap. I use water base wipe on poly since oil base turns yellow with age. The warmth of oil base poly is usually nice and really only noticeable over white. I fletch with Fletch-Tite.


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## LBR (Jan 1, 2004)

The best finish I've ever used is an epoxy finish a friend of mine modified from the Jay Massey bow finish. Super durable, easy to apply, and you can get everything from a hardware store.

It's on a different computer though--I'll have to post it later.


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## andylismore (Jul 17, 2013)

Thanks guys, given me a lot to think about.
I noticed that no one uses the dipping method for paint, I guess that would give far to thick a coat?.


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

I've read that lots of people dip paint, but I believe they thin the paint enough to allow for a proper coat. Someone else may pop on here later and discuss their technique for this.


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## ncheels (Jun 3, 2009)

When it comes to painting wooden arrows; if I want to put a cap on the arrows (full paint on the back 10" or so), I simply apply painters tape at that line and then spray paint the back portion with a light coat. I use spray paint from walmart. spray about 12" away or so. Then after a few hours or the next day, I recoat. Usually it's really good after 2nd coat and then I'm ready to move on. Simple as that, for painting. No need to buy dippers and such. Just tape and spray paint for a cheap but good paint job.


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## LBR (Jan 1, 2004)

Ok, here's one of the easier to do, and absolutely most durable finishes I've used. Unlike poly, you won't get much if any target burn, even with heavier draw weights.

This is my friend Tom K's adaptation of the Massey epoxy bow finish for arrows.


1) First thing I do is stain shafts. I usually use aniline dyes from 
Gray Ghost Archery, but any stain will usually work. I only stain
to where the stain and crown will meet.

2) After stain dries, using 0000 steelwool to remove any raised grain, 
then stain again if necessary to achieve desired color.

3) If I don't have any epoxy formula made up, I use the following 
procedure for that.

*I purchase Devcon 2-ton epoxy and a can of acetone from Wal-Mart 
in the paint section. I use a 4 ounce jar (baby food or mason 
jelly jar) to squirt the entire contents of epoxy in to. I then
completely mix the 2 epoxy parts until clear. I then add 1 ounce
of acetone (1/2 jar) and stir until the epoxy appears to have 
dissolved and looks only like acetone remains. I then fill the 
jar with acetone and stir again for a few seconds.*

4) Applied one coat of epoxy as described next.

*Always wear chemical resistant gloves, I use the blue Nitrate cloves
that the tools trucks (Snap-On, Mac) sell to local automotive and
diesel garage mechanics. I use small cotton rags from t-shirts. 
Hold arrow at nock or point end, make one long continuous swipe
from end to end. Then rotate shaft 180 degrees and do again. (Do 
not attempt to double wipe on same side, the rag will stick to
the first coat).

5) After epoxy dries, check for raised grain. Remove if needed.

6) Apply a second coat of epoxy.

7) I will mark the shafts for my crown. I use 2 inch masking tape
at the crown line. I then spray the crowns on, (I usually use Krylon
enamels, and usually 2 coats will be enough). **If you are going to
use fluorescent colors, always spray a basecoat of white first.**

8) After crown dries, apply cresting lines (Testors model paints work great).

9) After crown and cresting are COMPLETELY dry, spray or brush the 
crown and crestings with a thin coat of Min Wax Water Based 
Polyacyrlic (blue can). I prefer to brush mine on while shaft is in my
crester. (I use an Arrow Specialties crester).

10) After poly dries, apply second coat.

11) After letting poly dry an hour, apply first coat of epoxy over 
entire shaft. Make sure to check wiping rag for paint residue 
after first arrow to insure that acetone is not attacking cresting 
and crown. If paint is being attacked, crest the arrow if 
needed, and give another coat of poly over all arrows. Some
paint will show up from the nock end where there wasn't any epoxy.

12) If all is ok, I will usually put on 5 to 7 coats of epoxy, 
make sure to smooth out finish very lightly with 0000 steel wool
between all coats. 

13) I then set nocks using Duco cement, and mount feathers with either 
Bohning Fletch Tape or regular super glues (not the gel stuff).
I prefer the tape. This makes for easy feather repair if needed. 
Make sure to remove any excess epoxy from the nock taper first, 
the cement will stick better. I do this with the small blade of my 
pocket knife.


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## OkieJ (Feb 2, 2005)

I always used leather dye for caps. Comes in a lot of different colors.


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

Leather dye is great stuff. I did some solid yellow shafts that came out nice and bright. I've also used the white leather dye but got more of a ghostly, pale white ... not at all like a vivid white paint would look.


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