# arrows for 35 lb recurve?



## grantmac

600 spine carbon at least 30" long with 100gr points to start. I like the GT Velocity Hunter.

-Grant


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## dougedwards

grantmac said:


> 600 spine carbon at least 30" long with 100gr points to start. I like the GT Velocity Hunter.
> 
> -Grant


 I think that Gold Tip arrows are listed as 35/55. Would that be equivalent to 600 spine?


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## ousooneralum

No, you are looking for 1535 - not 3555


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## grantmac

dougedwards said:


> I think that Gold Tip arrows are listed as 35/55. Would that be equivalent to 600 spine?


Not the lightweight ones. They are listed by spine.

The regular weight ones would be called 1535.

-Grant


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## northern boy

Check the carbon express preator II in a 800 spine These are the skinny shafts an you can use the half out inserts with them super tough arrow an low cost Lancaster archery has them. you should be able to leave them full lenght 30". There only 53.00a dozen plus you will need the halfout inserts there 14.oo a dozen so 67.00 a dozen total. use point weight of 65-125 an should tune perfect for you. you can use any screw points but the skinny shafts will have a flush fit with a 17/64 dia point sander combo point work great for them. They also have a 700 spine but I think the 800. spine would be better un less you a long draw like 29-30 I draw 27 an can use them on bows from 35-45# depending on point weight. Really a great low cost arrow an they last forever if you don,t lose or robin hood them.


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## Arron

I just picked up a Hoyt Horizon 25" riser with medium blackmax limbs that are at 37#'s at my 28" draw. My Beman 500's are cut to 30" with 125 tips are shooting stiff on a bare shaft. I picked up a GT Traditional 600 full length bare shaft and put a 125g tip on and that is shooting a very strong weak arrow. I am thinking I will try a full length Beman 500 at 32" that I just won at a raffle and see what that does.


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## 6-Speed

I've been using Easton 1916 aluminum arrows cut to 31" for a 35# recurve, but at my draw length and limb bolt setting it's probably closer to 40#.


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## scmike

+1 on the 1916s. I use 30-inch long Platinum Plus shafts, fletched with 4-inch parabolic feathers on a 35# recurve. They're a perfect fit.


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## dougedwards

So you cut aluminum arrows to fit?


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## scmike

I don't usually. I order the shafts cut to the length I want. But others with proper tools to cut aluminum arrows cut their own. I have, in a pinch, cut them with a circular pipe cutter.


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## Bowhunter57

I'm shooting a PSE Stalker that's 40# @ 28" and I use Gold Tip 35/55s that are 30" long with 3 5" feathers and 100gr. tips. This set up flys good for me, but I haven't tested it with broadheads, yet. It's my personal belief that the true test of good arrow flight will be proven with a broadhead.

Also, the brace height is 8" and the nocking point is 5/8" above square. This bow has a drilled/tapped riser for an arrow rest, which is the reason for the high nocking point and why I have to shoot it 3 fingers under. I had to use a 3/16" thick piece of leather for the side plate on the rest (also due to the center shot riser) to keep is from shooting 4" or more to the right.

Bowhunter57


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## dougedwards

Bowhunter57 said:


> I'm shooting a PSE Stalker that's 40# @ 28" and I use Gold Tip 35/55s that are 30" long with 3 5" feathers and 100gr. tips. This set up flys good for me, but I haven't tested it with broadheads, yet. It's my personal belief that the true test of good arrow flight will be proven with a broadhead.
> 
> Also, the brace height is 8" and the nocking point is 5/8" above square. This bow has a drilled/tapped riser for an arrow rest, which is the reason for the high nocking point and why I have to shoot it 3 fingers under. I had to use a 3/16" thick piece of leather for the side plate on the rest (also due to the center shot riser) to keep is from shooting 4" or more to the right.
> 
> Bowhunter57


Boy......there sure is a lot of things to consider when shooting these traditional bows.


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## rock74

You never mentioned your draw length which is important for your deciding factor but if looking at aluminum you will be in the neighborhood of a 1716 which spines out to 39# with a 28" draw if your drawing longer a 1816 may be the ticket which spines up to 44#.


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## Live In a Park

I'm new, too, and am shooting 1816 Easton Jazz, cut to 28" with 125 grain screw-in field points from my 35# Red Stag. I'm sure they ain't perfect, but they are good. "Correct Spine" seems to be a bell curve and getting the perfect arrow for your bow and draw can take a lot of time and effort. At my level, good is certainly good enough. By the way, I used to spent a lot of time looking for arrows and the purple Jazz with yellow and orange fletch are much easier to find in the grass.


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## jusoldave

dougedwards said:


> Boy......there sure is a lot of things to consider when shooting these traditional bows.


Sure does seem like it sometimes, doesn't it?

What you're noticing is the natural results of asking a group of obsessive/compulsive archery nuts a (potentially) technical question. We all here seem to be in search of the Holy Grail of stickbow archery: constant improvement, with no regression. It's kinda like asking an accuracy question on a benchrest shooters' forum; you're gonna get asked your drawers and shoe size, before the thread ends. Most of us here are pretty conscious of details of our setups, and are attempting to quantify our shooting efforts to some degree, to be able to understand and explain our successes and failures: in other words, "why does _this_ (arrow, rest, release, form, string, brace height, tip, fletching, spine, etc) work, and this _doesn't_?"

That, of course, is just one of several routes to success (read: predictable accuracy) in "traditional" archery. On the other end of the spectrum, there's always the native/indigenous/primitive method: carve a stick, trim some twigs, twist a string, and start launching arrows; and keep tryin' until they start going where you intend them to go... which is really pretty fun in itself! It just takes a lot longer to predictably hit what you're aiming at.

Bottom line: don't let it overwhelm you; the guys are just trying to get you pointed in the right direction so's you'll start seeing success sooner. Enjoy!


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## 6-Speed

dougedwards said:


> So you cut aluminum arrows to fit?


I order my arrows cut to length and pre-fletched with nocks and inserts installed. I've purchased Easton XX75 Platinum Plus and Camo Hunter arrows, both of which offer a large variety of sizes/spines.


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## dougedwards

Yeah......years ago I was into competitive smokeless muzzleloading competition and it was the same way. But it is all very much fun. 

Doug


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## reddogge

1716s with either 125, 100, or 75 gr points will tune depending on draw length and arrow length and will fly fast and great.


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## rembrandt

Not sure if the spine is right but I shoot GT Ultralights with my bow which I hold at 32lbs and they are dead on. Thats the best arrow I've used with a recurve and the 22s are the best for me with the compounds. If the Ultralights work with your bow, try them, they are super arrows.


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## Nekekal

dougedwards said:


> Yeah......years ago I was into competitive smokeless muzzleloading competition and it was the same way. But it is all very much fun.
> 
> Doug


For a while I did black powder traditional rifle, but it was much to messy, smokeless would probably be better, and the details were much to complicated. I just wanted to shoot.

Then I dabbled in black powder cartridge, but could never get as technically committed as the other people.

Now I am doing traditional archery. And am not going to compete. I have been reading the endless amount of stuff about spine, and have determined that at my current level of skill, it doesn't make a lot of difference. I have been shooting for about 10 months, but most of that has been winter. I have a 38# bow, and short arm so my draw length is less than 27 inches. Probably around 35 pounds on my fingers. Originally, the shop set me up with full length Beman ICS Bowhunter 500 arrows with 125 grain tips. They seem to work OK. No waggling back and forth, fly straight. Apparently tuning needs to happen at 20 yards and beyond. My group at 20 yards is about 16 inches. I do better at 15 yards, and group under 6 at ten yards. 

I think it is important to get something that will work, shoot, have fun, and worry about perfect a bit later.


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## reddogge

At 35# you will need an arrow that will be light enough to fly fast and flat. Lots of arrows can by tuned to that bow but if they are too heavy the bow bow will seem doggy. You can tell if your arrows are flying fast enough without a chronograph. One way I do it is I use a bow/arrow set up around 45# that gives me a good flat arrow and I know the point on distance with that combo. I'll shoot the light rig to see if my point on is the same. In my case it was with 1716s.


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## dougedwards

Nekekal said:


> For a while I did black powder traditional rifle, but it was much to messy, smokeless would probably be better, and the details were much to complicated. I just wanted to shoot.
> 
> Then I dabbled in black powder cartridge, but could never get as technically committed as the other people.
> 
> Now I am doing traditional archery. And am not going to compete. I have been reading the endless amount of stuff about spine, and have determined that at my current level of skill, it doesn't make a lot of difference. I have been shooting for about 10 months, but most of that has been winter. I have a 38# bow, and short arm so my draw length is less than 27 inches. Probably around 35 pounds on my fingers. Originally, the shop set me up with full length Beman ICS Bowhunter 500 arrows with 125 grain tips. They seem to work OK. No waggling back and forth, fly straight. Apparently tuning needs to happen at 20 yards and beyond. My group at 20 yards is about 16 inches. I do better at 15 yards, and group under 6 at ten yards.
> 
> I think it is important to get something that will work, shoot, have fun, and worry about perfect a bit later.


If I didn't think this would be fun I wouldn't do it. However, some of the fun is in the tinkering for me and it always has been no matter what avenue that I take. 

I am currently shooting a 25 lb longbow and waiting for a 30 lb recurve to arrive at my door. Eventually I hope to work up to shooting a 45 lb bow which is the minimum poundage for hunting whitetails in my state. But I am taking the advice from others and am attempting to learn proper form and technique with a poundage that I can easily handle. 

One of the things that makes me wonder is the fact that a Gold Tip 35/55 cannot be limber enough for a 35 lb recurve even with a 125 grain tip and a 14 grain insert. I mean, with compound bows there are many factors that figure into the selection of a shootable shaft. Length of shaft, weight up front, weight in the rear as well as the poundage of the bow. If I were to shoot a GT 60/75 shaft out of a 60 lb bow I would just leave it full length (32") provide a brass insert with a 150 gr point or broadhead, install a light weight nock and feathers and it will shoot through paper just fine. 

But here it seems that only a 15/35 spined shaft is suitable for a 35 lb recurve. Why is that? Are there not other factors that will influence the limberness of the arrow?

I haven't shot aluminum arrows since the turn of the century so I cannot speak to them. 

Doug


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## wseward

An arrow saw made of common hardware store store parts is a good idea:


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## grantmac

dougedwards said:


> If I didn't think this would be fun I wouldn't do it. However, some of the fun is in the tinkering for me and it always has been no matter what avenue that I take.
> 
> I am currently shooting a 25 lb longbow and waiting for a 30 lb recurve to arrive at my door. Eventually I hope to work up to shooting a 45 lb bow which is the minimum poundage for hunting whitetails in my state. But I am taking the advice from others and am attempting to learn proper form and technique with a poundage that I can easily handle.
> 
> One of the things that makes me wonder is the fact that a Gold Tip 35/55 cannot be limber enough for a 35 lb recurve even with a 125 grain tip and a 14 grain insert. I mean, with compound bows there are many factors that figure into the selection of a shootable shaft. Length of shaft, weight up front, weight in the rear as well as the poundage of the bow. If I were to shoot a GT 60/75 shaft out of a 60 lb bow I would just leave it full length (32") provide a brass insert with a 150 gr point or broadhead, install a light weight nock and feathers and it will shoot through paper just fine.
> 
> But here it seems that only a 15/35 spined shaft is suitable for a 35 lb recurve. Why is that? Are there not other factors that will influence the limberness of the arrow?
> 
> I haven't shot aluminum arrows since the turn of the century so I cannot speak to them.
> 
> Doug


55/75 or 35/55 is just a name that Gold Tip gives to their arrows, it has nothing to do with the range of bow weights which will shoot them. a 15# bow will most certainly NOT be able to shoot a 15/35 (600) spine arrow effectively. A 15# bow needs more like a 1400-1800 spine arrow.

It's possible that you could take a 35/55 (500) spine arrow and load the point up with weight until it flys. But it will be extremely slow.

That is why I recommend one of the ultralight 600 spine shafts. Either the Velocity Hunter or Ultralight Entrada. Both are good, cheap arrows which should shoot well without excessive point weights if you leave them full length.

-Grant


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## dougedwards

That is a cool looking set up there wseward!

I didn't take into consideration the weight of the arrow and how impacting that can be out of a 35 lb bow. Makes sense. I will be learning as I do but do appreciate any education that I can get here.

Doug


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## ousooneralum

Any chance you can post a 'build along' or parts list for that saw? Have a dremel needing repurposed!


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## dougedwards

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1009525

Here is another thread concerning the cutting of arrows. But below is what I use. I cut them with a dremel and then square them off with the G5 Squaring Tool.
http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/prod...=52254398951&gclid=CPWWo8-O4bYCFUyY4AodNXQAzg


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## wseward

dougedwards: thanx 
Good luck tuning!!


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## Don_Parsons

Tag


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## Daniel L

grantmac said:


> 600 spine carbon at least 30" long with 100gr points to start. I like the GT Velocity Hunter.
> 
> -Grant


Yep - that's what I use too. GT Velocity in 600 spine with a variety of points works well and decent speed and without going to skinny shafts, kept at full length to use for fixed crawl aiming.

GT Traditionals in the same spine if you want to go for a heavier shaft, more durable.


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