# Need help with my grouping at long distance 60+



## Alexanderjed (Jan 6, 2017)

I am having trouble with getting consistent groupings when I step out to sixty yards or further my shooting is good from twenty yards an out but can't seem to keep them tight together from farther out any tips to help.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

What sort of groups are you getting at longer range?

What size groups do you expect to achieve?


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## Alexanderjed (Jan 6, 2017)

Anywhere from 10-12 inches an idk I'd like it to be like my twenty yard grouping lol I would be happy with at least 6 inch grouping it's just very inconsistent


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## Ray Ray (Aug 1, 2005)

I found that the anxiety from not being able to aim as well at longer distances add to the group size. If shooting a 2" group at 30 yards you will not shoot a 4" group at 60 yards. The 2 do not grow at the same rate. I find that doubling the distance usually gets a group about 3 times the size.
So you need to shoot every shot in the 10 ring on a Vegas target at 30 yards to shoot a 6" group at 60 yards.
Just shoot the same shot at 60 as at 20. Your groups will get better the more you shoot at distance.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

10" to 12" inch groups at 60 yds isn't too bad. To shrink them from that point, you will need to start getting the little things right.

One of the bigger things is building your arrows more consistently. Same weight, spine, spine alignment, etc. The longer the range, the more important spine is. John Dudley has some great articles on this on his website.

Bow balance can help. Getting your stabilizer weights to balance to fit you. This usually just takes a lot of experimentation. George Ryals has a great article on this on his website.

Fine tune your DL. This too is a trial & error thing. Add a couple of twist, shorten a couple of twists, etc. This is super time consuming since you have to shoot several rounds over several days at each DL.

There are a lot of things that you can do to shrink your groups, but they generally boil down to consistency. Consistent bow, consistent arrows and consistent archer. The specifics of this is what AT is all about.

Hope this helps,
Allen


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## Alexanderjed (Jan 6, 2017)

What do you mean about DL an what do you know about paper tuning an how much that affects the shot at long distances


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Here is a guide that will answer your questions and a lot more. It has a good graphic that explains DL (draw length) and it has a whole lot about tuning.

http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf

You can download it so you don't have to be online to read it.

After you have your bow set up, IMO, paper tuning is a good first step. It shows if anything big is out of whack. An alternate is bare shaft tuning. BS tuning has the advantage of not needing a frame for the paper. It's what I use since most of my shooting is in a public park and it's a pain to lug out a paper tuning frame.

Paper tuning is also a good step in matching your arrows. Shoot bare shafts at the paper and get them all to give you the same tear. Unfortunately, you also have to have a grip with very little torque. Hand torque is why many people say that paper tuning is not a good method of tuning. I know that I couldn't do it until I got my bow hand worked out.

Hope this helps,
Allen


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## f40mcd (Jan 28, 2012)

I've seen people rave about the Online Archery Challenge coaching program!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## pottergreg (Mar 20, 2015)

To shoot a consistent small group at 60 yards, everything has to be spot on! I have found a .010" pin helps (that 12 ring is awful small, a magnified scope helps too)! A well tuned and balanced bow is essential, but most importantly, your form must be excellent. Can you consistently shoot bare shafts and fletched shafts in the 12 ring at 20 yards? That is your first goal, then 60 yards will fall in line. If you are serious, you need a coach to watch you and fine tune you.


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