# shootin high????



## arrowfinatic (Nov 29, 2009)

sounds like the same problem I have. I know my problem for sure is my grip I just got a new bow for Christmas and it's taken me awhile to get the grip down for some reason. I think it's finally coming around just make sure you don't feel skin stretching when you grip the bow. When you release your skin will return to were it should be and therefore move your bow. Also if you shooting high you may be putting to much pressure on the bottom of your hand and kicking the bow up . Remember equal pressure through out the hand like your pushing on a wall.


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## dpattarcher (Mar 7, 2009)

weak shot, as in giving up just as released. or creeping forward just a hair will do it to.


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## A7shooter (May 4, 2008)

Gotta agree with Dp sounds like you're creepin real bad


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## kkromer (Sep 14, 2004)

larsen-4 said:


> i shot two vegas rounds the other night both grappy 295's and 7 out of the 10 misses were a 1/4" high the others left and right. my miss scores would be 29 2x with the x's perfect but every shot felt the same! what could be causing my high shooting? bow grip? release grip? all the above?



Have you creep tuned your bow? If you're shooting a cam .5 type system? The cams being just a little out of sync can also sneak up and bite you. The high shots will come if you make a weak shot, but creep tuning the bow can help minimize how high it will go, if any at all.


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## kkromer (Sep 14, 2004)

Here's a post that I think maybe Javi put up a couple of years back.

Creep Tuning Hybrid Cams

It is a variation on the old stand by Creep tuning methods…
With the tiller set to even (limb bolts bottomed and backed out the same on both limbs to your shooting weight) Set the timing as close as you can by eye.
I like to start with my sight zeroed at 20 yards. 
Using ½ or ¾ inch masking put a horizontal line on your 20 yard target.
Shoot 3 or 4 arrows aiming at the tape, be sure to draw only to the wall do not pull into the limbs. Only use your good shots; the bad ones don’t count.
This is where the Hybrid differs from the two cam bow in creep tuning. Since there is no real valley you can’t creep into it. (I usually don't use aggressive back tension, I squeeze the trigger, or rotate while aiming)
Now shoot 3 or 4 more arrows at the line, while drawing your bow hard into the cams (you’re over rotating the cams just a bit) this is what most people describe as the mushy felling on the hybrid. Again use only your good shots.
If your bow is in perfect time all your shots will hit the line, and the mushy feeling will be almost unnoticeable. If the shots fired while pulling hard into the cams hit high, apply a ½ twist to the control cable.
If the shots fired while pulling hard into the cams hit low apply a ½ twist to the buss cable.

Repeat until all shots hit the tape….

The buss cable is the split cable running from the bottom cam to the top limb(split cable). The Control cable is the one that runs between the top cam and the bottom cam. (straight cable).

This might help make your set-up a little more forgiving.

Good luck.


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## Mach-X (Jun 12, 2006)

*Kyle Kromer*

Do you have the any tuning suggestions for a single cam bow? The previous thread was great information. I never considered a back of the wall shot hiting high or low as compared to a mid-valley release. 
Thanks


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## kkromer (Sep 14, 2004)

You could try the same thing with a one-cam and ad a twist to the buss, or take it out. I'm not sure that would really have the same effect on a one cam though.

One cam guys here may have a lot more thoughts on how creep tuning works on a one cam, I never tried it when I shot them because I didn't know about it at the time.

I will say that micro tuning will probably get the best results for making a one cam very forgiving. Easton's tuning guide outlines how best to do that.

Here's that link - http://www.eastonarchery.com/download/software


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