# "Sealing" a bow?



## BrokenArrows (Apr 20, 2004)

Know nothing about finishing anything, let alone a bow.

Researching it leaves me w questions.

Seems most use Thunderbird or some type of spar urethane over the whole thing, wood and glass.

Do I have to "seal" the fiberglass too? If I use a wood stain/sealer on the wood, or an oil finish, is there a problem leaving the glass as is? Oil won't work on glass?

Reason I ask is I have some stuff that will work on the wood, but not the glass, and I want this as quick and easy as possible.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

I'm assuming you are talking about a longbow\recurve that has glass and wood laminated together. 
Why go through the whole process of refinishing or building a bow and then go quick and easy on the finishing?

I would guess a good polyurethane finish would be appropriate but honestly I have not finished a recurve\longbow myself. You may also want to ask this question on the traditional forums too.


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## Dave V (Aug 13, 2008)

Thunderbird should work on both wood and glass. It's also a good sealer in its own right. Mix the two parts, spray, sand, and repeat a half dozen times or so.


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## BrokenArrows (Apr 20, 2004)

b0w_bender said:


> I'm assuming you are talking about a longbow\recurve that has glass and wood laminated together.
> Why go through the whole process of refinishing or building a bow and then go quick and easy on the finishing?


Cuzz that's the way I am. 

I have not gone through any process other than a quick and easy buying of an unfinished bow that needs "sealing". Want to keep the quick and easy part going... 

If I seal the wood, am I done? Does the glass have to be sealed too? I already have stuff that will go on and seal the wood, but not the glass...


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## Dave V (Aug 13, 2008)

If you're in a hurry, rub Tru-Oil into the handle and start shooting it. Technically, I dont think glass needs to be "sealed"


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## BrokenArrows (Apr 20, 2004)

One done. Kept it simple, like me. Thompson's Easy Stain on the wood, jute twine for the bandages, leather wrap for the handle. May Mad Max the next one: metal flake paint and skull and bones hockey stick tape...


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## handirifle (Jun 9, 2005)

First off, if you don't want to buy a new bow after the first wet hunting trip, I would at least invest in some fine sandpaper and spray on polyurethane (about $5-6). Get either gloss or what ever amount of glare you want on the finish.

I wouldn't use tru oil on your bow, as it could possibly react with the glue used in the laminations. Also if you don't seal the sides of the limbs (they are laminated glass and wood) moisture will get in there and eventually cause limb de-lamination. I have built a dozen or so laminated bows, and have seen just about anything bad that can happen.

Sand it nice and smooth, then use a rag with some acetone on it, not soaked, and wipe the entire bow down before spraying it. Wear rubber gloves and do it in a well ventilated area. If it's a one piece bow, you can suspend it by the string groove at one end of the bow and slowly spin when spraying. Keep it out of windy/drafty areas or it will get covered in dust. Let it dry 24hrs before using it, no matter what the can says.

You spent good money on the bow, don't waste it cause you're in a hurry. Do it right.


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## BrokenArrows (Apr 20, 2004)

Thanks. Not a hunting bow, neither one of us is getting wet. Still, next one, and this one eventually, will get 3 coats of spar urethane...


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## BrokenArrows (Apr 20, 2004)

On researching this, I did come across some interesting stuff... traditional oil and beeswax on all wooden longbows working fine for years, and Chinese laminated horn/sinew bows held together w fish glue and covered w paint and varnish working just fine for 150 years!


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