# Bow Stringers



## rkumetz (Jun 20, 2014)

For more years than I would care to admit I have been using Saunders "No Twist" bow stringers.
Somewhat ironically they seem to be ridiculously prone to getting knots in them despite their name.
(Yes, I realize they were referring to not twisting limbs)

Looking in the LAS catalog I see that both SF and Hoyt make similar stringers but that both use parachute
cord which is less likely end up with non-removable knots. The Hoyt one is twice the price of either the
SF or the Saunders but seems to have some pretty miserable reviews detailing limbs shooting all over the
place and various other bad things.

Does anyone have experience with either of these stringers (good or bad) that they would be willing to share?
I suppose I could just put parachute cord on my old Saunders stringer but that seems like a lot of work
for a $13 item not to mention that the friction block is molded onto the old cord.


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

Hello. 

If you're referring to the $25 Hoyt stringer that is made of plastic, my experience with it (_on a Hoyt ILF rig!_) is quite negative ... it's the most ill-designed and ill-fitting stringer I've ever bought (_and made specifically for its bow!_) - and I used it only once, at that. 

If you like the tip-to-plate type of stringer, the Selway model is excellent. I now only use (and make my own) tip-to-tip (cup-to-cup) stringers because the leverage is placed fully upon the tips, minimizing the lifting weight for an easy, efficient stringing process that's easier on the back during the stoop.

I don't know the SF stringer, so can't speak to that one. 

Good luck on your search.


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## c365 (May 15, 2013)

rkumetz said:


> The Hoyt one is twice the price of either the
> SF or the Saunders but seems to have some pretty miserable reviews *detailing limbs shooting all over the
> place* and various other bad things.


Can you explain?


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## rkumetz (Jun 20, 2014)

c365 said:


> Can you explain?


It is easier if you just look at the reviews: http://www.lancasterarchery.com/hoyt-recurve-stringer.html


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## gif (Jul 14, 2012)

i haven't used any of those, but they all look like they would have the same problem.
I've used the webster stringer for about 5 years now, it works great.


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## rkumetz (Jun 20, 2014)

The Saunders one strings a bow just fine but tends to tangle because of the type of cord they use.
I find it easier to use because you can see when the string is seated better than with the 2 pocket type
stringers.

The complaints with the Hoyt one seem to center around the limb cup breaking.
Why Hoyt can't make a stringer with a cup that doesn't break and the Saunders one
will last 20 years for half the price is a mystery.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

If you have the space to store it, and you are pretty handy you can always make a box stringer. It's not "break down friendly" as in it doesn't come completely apart to transport but it is extremely easy to use.

I made this one out of PVC 1" Schedule 40 for the square part, schedule 80 for the legs but schedule 80 all around would be stronger. 

1/2" black pipe would be very rigid and strong but it would also be pretty heavy and a lot more expensive.


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## rkumetz (Jun 20, 2014)

That is a really cool way to build a box stringer. I have one at camp that has a wooden frame. The limbs
sit on PVC pipe covered with those foam "noodles" that kids use in pools. The PVC is basically a roller which
is on a piece of threaded rod. 

I started the thread because the 20+ (exactly how + is a secret) year old Saunders stringer in MY bow case has way too many knots in it and it is time to replace it.
I was going to "upgrade" to the more expensive Hoyt one but I was somewhat flabbergasted when I read the poor reviews.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

I use one of these...yes, knots hard to come out- but that's my fault for not tieing it properly. 
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/selway-limbsaver-recurve-stringer.html


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

No disagreement there. 

If you really want to remove the knots, you can soak the stringer in water and then roll the knots between your fingers. That will often help you remove the knots. 

Or you can replace it with paracord as you mentioned. just keep the very end where the rubber is molded (cut off so you have the loop) and tie off the other end the same way as the saunders is.

I still have stringers from 20+ of the saunders variety and I still use them.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

Is this on an older bow? Just curious because I basically don't use my stringer anymore unless it's an old bow or one that has deep hooks (border)...otherwise, just push/pull to get the string on.


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## rkumetz (Jun 20, 2014)

Fury90flier said:


> I use one of these...yes, knots hard to come out- but that's my fault for not tieing it properly.
> http://www.lancasterarchery.com/selway-limbsaver-recurve-stringer.html


That may be just the ticket. It has much better cord than the Saunders and the nylon pocket is probably a lot more predictable than the
cheap plastic cup on the Hoyt that seems to break.

BTW that one has parachute cord so if you are getting knots in that one you would render the Saunders one useless in no time at at all.

Thanks for the suggestion.


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## rkumetz (Jun 20, 2014)

Fury90flier said:


> Is this on an older bow? Just curious because I basically don't use my stringer anymore unless it's an old bow or one that has deep hooks (border)...otherwise, just push/pull to get the string on.


I have been known to use the push pull method myself. Particularly when I lose my stringer. 
I try NOT to use it in front of kids or new archers for obvious reasons.


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## rkumetz (Jun 20, 2014)

dchan said:


> No disagreement there.
> If you really want to remove the knots, you can soak the stringer in water and then roll the knots between your fingers. That will often help you remove the knots.
> Or you can replace it with paracord as you mentioned. just keep the very end where the rubber is molded (cut off so you have the loop) and tie off the other end the same way as the saunders is.
> I still have stringers from 20+ of the saunders variety and I still use them.


I would really like to know why Saunders can sell a functional stringer for $12 when Hoyt sells (more or less) the same thing for $25 and it appears to break.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

rkumetz said:


> I would really like to know why Saunders can sell a functional stringer for $12 when Hoyt sells (more or less) the same thing for $25 and it appears to break.


Easy...it says "hoyt" AND, it has a nice and bright cord



rkumetz said:


> I have been known to use the push pull method myself. Particularly when I lose my stringer.
> I try NOT to use it in front of kids or new archers for obvious reasons.


I agree...not smart to use in front of those that don't understand that you have to know what your doing. If someone is in the area when I put my bow together and I think they're too inexperienced- I always say "don't do this- you can break a limb". Then I'll show them how easy it is to have a string slip...describing the type of damage to the bow and possibly to them. Most opt to just use the stringer. 

Every so often, I get someone that wants to learn something...so I'll teach them push/pull, step through and stringer. Typically I'll hear "what if I forget the stringer" as a reasoning.


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## trevorpowdrell (May 8, 2012)

Plus 1 for the webster.

http://www.amazon.com/Webster-Traditional-Archery-BOWSTRINGER-Recurve/dp/B00AZKU3ZC


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

Fury90flier said:


> I agree...not smart to use in front of those that don't understand that you have to know what your doing. If someone is in the area when I put my bow together and I think they're too inexperienced- I always say "don't do this- you can break a limb". Then I'll show them how easy it is to have a string slip...describing the type of damage to the bow and possibly to them. Most opt to just use the stringer.
> 
> Every so often, I get someone that wants to learn something...so I'll teach them push/pull, step through and stringer. Typically I'll hear "what if I forget the stringer" as a reasoning.


here's a more important reason not to teach the push pull method..

Warning: it's got some pretty ugly pictures.

http://blog.thecrossbowstore.com/tag/hunting-bow/


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## Franklin7 (Jan 14, 2013)

Fury90flier said:


> I use one of these...yes, knots hard to come out- but that's my fault for not tieing it properly.
> http://www.lancasterarchery.com/selway-limbsaver-recurve-stringer.html


I have been using one of these but I have thought about replacing the cord with a bright colored cord as I seem to always loose them (yes plural. . . ) I think the black just blends in to the rest of the stuff. . .


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## rkumetz (Jun 20, 2014)

Franklin7 said:


> I have been using one of these but I have thought about replacing the cord with a bright colored cord as I seem to always loose them (yes plural. . . ) I think the black just blends in to the rest of the stuff. . .


You can buy a 50' hank of brightly colored parachute cord for next to nothing. $7 at my "local" military surplus store. Probably half that on Ebay or similar.


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## Franklin7 (Jan 14, 2013)

I have about 1500' of that stuff in my closet that is should probably use before I buy more. I have a problem of going to order one color that I ran out of and then ordering three more&#55357;&#56835; good thing is though is that it is cheap.


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## chrstphr (Nov 23, 2005)

i got about 8 feet of D loop cord from my archery range. Its rated to something like 500 lbs. i replaced the nylon cord that came with my stringer. 

another cardinal rule is i never allow a knot to form. I alwyas check the line before i string the bow. Always. 

The nylon cords always break at a knot. 

This stringer has lasted me 8 years plus and still going strong. I have two, and never gotten the chance to use the second one. With $700 limbs, i prefer not to do the push pull. 

View attachment 2072477


Chris


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## archeryal (Apr 16, 2005)

With the possible exception of a 46-48" 15# bow or a TQ Comet (very fat limb tips which are too wide for my stringer) I always use a stringer, preferring a tip-to-tip style. (I've had some minor cosmetic limb scratching when a grommet damaged the finish. I covered it with masking tape.) I always turn my face away and run my fingers up on the side of the limb until the loop slides into the groove. Then, I turn it over (string side up) and make sure the string is fully in the grooves.

I see many who use push-pull and old-timers who risk twisting limbs with step through. I really cringe when someone just sits on the top limb, pushing it into the ground (usually on a kid's bow) - either end can slip and you're almost sure to twist the limbs pretty quickly. 

I used to use push-pull, (maybe 15 years ago) but stopped because I'm an instructor and want the kids to see the right (safe) way. In truth, stringers are really no hassle, like using a seatbelt, once you make it a habit (I live in Mass, with one of the worst seatbelt use rate - go figure.) I did ring my bell once when I was unstringing a bunch of kid's bows with push-pull, and my hand slipped. Since I turned my head, I hit my ear rather than my eye, fortunately.

I've seen a method (imported from Sweden, I believe), which might be safe. He uses a cyclist's trouser strap (used to keep pant legs from getting caught in the bike spokes). Instead of leaning the bottom limb on his leg, he uses a step-though method, but the bow tip sits in the loop of the strap on his leg.

Anyway, find a stringer you like and use it - always. It's not that hard to do.


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

My homemade tip-to-tipper:









For those who may wish to make their own tip-to-tip stringer, here is my recipe.

One inch wide strips of flexible suede. 

For the larger bottom cup, the strip is 6 1/4" long. From the middle of the strip in either direction, I punch a hole with the hole's edge (not center) measuring 2 1/2" away from the strip's middle. (The center of the 6 1/4" strip is 3 1/8" from either edge.) 

For the smaller upper cup (the stringing one), the strip is 5 1/4" long. From the middle of the strip in either direction, I punch a hole with the hole's edge measuring 2" from the strip's middle. (The center of the 5 1/4" strip is 2 5/8" from either edge.) 

I make the strips a different length to tell them apart. 

I wanted the cord to be 7' long so I wouldn't have to stoop so much. I cut a 9' piece to allow for a foot of tying on each end. I used a 550 Commercial Paracord Type III 7-strand that is quite thin in diameter (I think 1/8"). I got it from Gorilla Paracord online because I couldn't find any locally. 

The pic shows the cord pattern through the doubled-over suede. Use a bowline knot, which is one snug sucker and won't budge once tightened. I put a safety knot in the leftover cord just in case and melted the fray. (I had to practice that bowline knot at my desk with a Boy Scout Handbook and a piece of rope until I got it down.) 

If the upper cup hangs over the string notch, just stick a little folded tissue into it to shallow it out a bit. 

Not all bows are equal, and I don't know if these dimensions will work for everyone, but they seem in the ballpark for my bows.


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## Jim C (Oct 15, 2002)

The best cord stringer ever made IMHO was sold by Martin archery. it had a canvas pocket for the lower limb and it didn't squeeze the loop of the bowstring off the limb tip like the sanders sometimes does. It had a rubber strap for the upper limb like the saunders but it gripped better.

that hoyt stringer which clamps to the limb is worthless IMHO.

the one I like is similar to this one: the current Martin site doesn't seem to carry them anymore

http://www.3riversarchery.com/limbsaver+recurve+bow+stringer_i5096_baseitem.html


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello
So simple.
My friend designed this bow stringer. Just great. [ Later


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## ThomVis (Feb 21, 2012)

All stringers that have around-the-limb end (limb-tip or saddle-with-pouch type stringers) rely on friction to do their job. The Hoyt, new SF and Flex stringers have a rubber "C" which the cord goes around. When you put pressure on the cord the C closes creating more pressure. Trouble starts when the rubber gets old or oily -> less friction, same with oily limbs (from your hands). Trick is to keep the limb-loop in place until you put enough pressure on it so it won't slip, or use a tip-tip type stringer which doesn't rely on pressure (I personally don't like them). The SF and Hoyt have a plastic pouch on the other end which breaks when you step on it. 

Keeping knots out of the cord: Inspect before every use, or get a ticker synthetic cord like paracord, easier to get the knot out.



dchan said:


> here's a more important reason not to teach the push pull method..
> 
> Warning: it's got some pretty ugly pictures.


>This< document describes in Dutch stringing a bow using a tip-tip bow stringer. At the bottom of the document is a photo of the archer at my club who lost his eye de-stringing a bow without a stringer. The translation of the text under the photo: "Photograph of an archer: The right eye is damaged by not using a stringer. After two years of rehabilitation this archer aims with his left eye and he always uses a stringer."
I tend to introduce beginners to him when they "refuse" to use the stringer, he is always willing to share his story.


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## TER (Jul 5, 2003)

Thin Man said:


> My homemade tip-to-tipper:
> 
> View attachment 2072480
> 
> ...





ThomVis said:


> All stringers that have around-the-limb end (limb-tip or saddle-with-pouch type stringers) rely on friction to do their job. The Hoyt, new SF and Flex stringers have a rubber "C" which the cord goes around. When you put pressure on the cord the C closes creating more pressure. Trouble starts when the rubber gets old or oily -> less friction, same with oily limbs (from your hands). Trick is to keep the limb-loop in place until you put enough pressure on it so it won't slip, or use a tip-tip type stringer which doesn't rely on pressure (I personally don't like them). The SF and Hoyt have a plastic pouch on the other end which breaks when you step on it.
> 
> Keeping knots out of the cord: Inspect before every use, or get a ticker synthetic cord like paracord, easier to get the knot out.
> 
> ...


Great posts! Thanks guys!


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## Blackfletch (Dec 2, 2006)

I have used an ankle stringer for 50 years. It is nothing more than a 1/2 in strap and buckle. You place the strap around your left ankle 
loosely. place the lower limb with string attached into the loop of the stringer. put your right leg between the attached string and bow.
Place the bow handle against your right buttocks, push the upper limb against your buttocks and place the upper bowstring on upper 
limb. You can obviously make the bow strap for nearly no cost. By the way, there is no way you can hurt yourself due to limb breakage
or a limb disconnecting from your handle riser due to improper attachment.


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## zal (May 1, 2007)

Arrowhead U.K. stringer is by far the best and one of the cheapest there is available. I use one in various bows from 12# up to 66# hunting rig with no slipping whatsoever at any time. I've used the one I have perhaps 6 years? and a lot of students and club members have used them and I haven't heard one single problem.

You can reach the guy who makes them through AIUK and he has an ebay store. Also makes fantastic low cost quivers and chest guards, which I also use.


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## Bob Furman (May 16, 2012)

Why is it twice as much???

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
• ELIMINATES TWISTING BOW LIMBS WHILE STRINGING BOW
• ONE POCKET, ONE WRAP AROUND GRIPPER DESIGN
• TOUGH, NYLON RED ROPE
• ADJUSTS TO ANY BOW LENGTH
• *HOYT RECURVE LOGO ON ONE END*

Need i say more?

On newer Hoyt limbs I prefer the OMP with no limb tip cups needed.

The old push/pull method has served me will well over the years. I have yet to ever twist a limb.


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## rat4go (Apr 14, 2011)

We have both the Webster and the saunders in our collection. Webster is definitely tangle free. Saunders not so much. I like some aspects of each and might end up doing a homebrew version. 

The hard rubber cup on the saunders can push the string off if you're not careful. Also, if the friction block isn't kept semi clean, it's friction qualities are not so good. This is less of an issue with short limbs and more of one with long limbs due to the 'string angle' of the stringer.

The only knock I have on the Webster is that it can be a bit sketchy being sure you have the string in the groove on the limb before you let it down.

I think what I want is:

A webbed strap (tangle free) with a webbed lower limb tip cup (won't push the string off) like the Webster, but with a 'friction' feature for the upper limb that leaves the upper limb tip more accessible so you can be sure the string is on before you let it down. 

I suppose I could splice the two together and get what I really wanted. Hmmmm.......


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## Azzurri (Mar 10, 2014)

I have the Selway and like it.


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## lksseven (Mar 21, 2010)

rkumetz said:


> I would really like to know why Saunders can sell a functional stringer for $12 when Hoyt sells (more or less) the same thing for $25 and it appears to break.


I've used that Hoyt stringer for 4 years. No problems with it at all, although I don't unstring my bow very often.


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## rkumetz (Jun 20, 2014)

rat4go said:


> I think what I want is:
> 
> A webbed strap (tangle free) with a webbed lower limb tip cup (won't push the string off) like the Webster, but with a 'friction' feature for the upper limb that leaves the upper limb tip more accessible so you can be sure the string is on before you let it down.
> 
> I suppose I could splice the two together and get what I really wanted. Hmmmm.......


That sort of describes the Selway that someone recommended a few replies ago.

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/selway-limbsaver-recurve-stringer.html


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## bobnikon (Jun 10, 2012)

check out the mybo stringer on alt


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## rkumetz (Jun 20, 2014)

bobnikon said:


> check out the mybo stringer on alt


That is actually pretty nice. Can one acquire one in the US?


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## bobnikon (Jun 10, 2012)

As far as I know you have to order through Alt. At least that is where I got mine. It is unique in that the "working" end is actually just a loop in the webbing with rubber lining. It takes a little to get used to, but is a snap once you start using it. According to me anyway.

Cheers


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## bobnikon (Jun 10, 2012)

Just found a similar one though on Lancaster
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/legacy-leather-nylon-limb-friction-bow-stringer.html
Though I am not sure where the leather is. While the webbing doesn't look anywhere near as robust, it gives a good idea of what the loop on the Mybo looks like.

Just also saw the fivics, I would replace the string with paracord, but the pockets and the metal brackets look pretty slick
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/fivics-stringer.html


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## zal (May 1, 2007)

Mybo stringer and that lancaster one is a copy of the Arrowhead UK stringer I recommended few posts back. The original is still better.


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## Varza (Sep 11, 2014)

zal said:


> Mybo stringer and that lancaster one is a copy of the Arrowhead UK stringer I recommended few posts back. The original is still better.


Well, the difference is, you can get the ones off of Lancaster in the US  If I could get one of those without paying more shipping than the stringer is worth, I would. 

I'm in the market for one of these (or two), and this thread has been great so far! Except now I can't decide which one I REALLY want...


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## rkumetz (Jun 20, 2014)

Varza said:


> Well, the difference is, you can get the ones off of Lancaster in the US  If I could get one of those without paying more shipping than the stringer is worth, I would.
> 
> I'm in the market for one of these (or two), and this thread has been great so far! Except now I can't decide which one I REALLY want...


I just bought one from Alternative for $11.38 including shipping. Since the insurance costs more than the stringer I just sent it by slow boat. If it gets lost I am out half the cost of the mediocre Hoyt stringer. Or if you have friends (didn't mean that the way it sounds...) you can buy a few and share the $12 to ship them insured. I'll bet you can ship quite a lot of them for the basic $12 insured shipping price.


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## bobnikon (Jun 10, 2012)

What did you end up with?


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## rkumetz (Jun 20, 2014)

bobnikon said:


> What did you end up with?


The Mybo that you recommended:
http://alternativess.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.cgi/001759.5.1157187050016295282


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## bobnikon (Jun 10, 2012)

Cool,

Just keep your hand near the loop as you start to pull and then bob (not me :wink is your uncle.

Cheers


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## c365 (May 15, 2013)

rkumetz said:


> The Mybo that you recommended:
> http://alternativess.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.cgi/001759.5.1157187050016295282


That design is what I made from paracord and soft leather ends. I'm leery about putting all the pulling force on the very small tippy ends of the limbs like most stringers. So mine pulls about 2-3" below the string grooves where the limb is nice and wide.


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## bobnikon (Jun 10, 2012)

I thought the same thing, and then I thought... 
What takes all the stress of the string, the limb tips, so I presume that they are fairly robust. The pocket on the Mybo is pretty deep actually, so I am guessing that the stress is distributed fairly well.


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## c365 (May 15, 2013)

bobnikon said:


> I thought the same thing, and then I thought...
> What takes all the stress of the string, the limb tips, so I presume that they are fairly robust. The pocket on the Mybo is pretty deep actually, so I am guessing that the stress is distributed fairly well.


Yeah Bob, I've never seen a tip break off...crossing fingers haha! anyway I thought it might be good precaution, mental if not anything else.


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## rkumetz (Jun 20, 2014)

I got the Mybo stringer this week from Alternative. It is pretty much exactly what I was looking for. One "cup" with friction pad on the other end AND the
webbing instead of the string will never tangle. Thanks for the recommendation!


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## bobnikon (Jun 10, 2012)

Cool


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## _JR_ (Mar 30, 2014)

I just got a Webster stringer because I got some new limbs (82#) to play around with and they were scary and difficult to string up with a regular friction-pad stringer. The Webster is a tip-to-tip stringer that seems to be the go-to stringer for people using heavy bows. 

Anyway, it has arrived and I've used it about 10 times now on a variety of bows (a 55# Bear longbow, a 45# Dorado, a 30# ILF recurve, and the 82# thumper). In each case, the perceived pulling effort is probably about 30% less because it's flexing both limbs equally and evenly (i.e., stringing up the 82# bow with the Webster is about as hard as stringing up the 55# longbow with a friction pad stringer). 

Today, three other people at my club tried it and two of them liked it a lot are now going to get one and the other one didn't find it so great (the upper pocket is small, but still, there's not a whole lot of room to get the string on.


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

On some of my bows with shorter tips, I pad the upper cup with a bit of tissue (cloth, paper towel, etc.) to shallow it out enough for easy string clearance. I made several stringers, and one has the perpetual tissue buffer in it for a few of my bows. 

Just be careful, and eyeball the fit like a hawk before stringing, for the tips on some bows are so short, or contoured oddly, as to make cup stringing dangerous.


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## archeryal (Apr 16, 2005)

Geez, Thinman. Did you have to use the word "eyeball"? I've also put wads of paper or leather scraps in the upper limb pocket. I generally do a little tentative partial pull to ensure that the tip is secure before finishing the pull to string it. 

The only time I'd prefer the saddle-type stringer is when I need to adjust the twists on the string. You can pull the loop off the end, twist and replace.


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## RickBac (Sep 18, 2011)

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/legacy-leather-nylon-limb-friction-bow-stringer.html

Lancaster Archery has there. They are awesome.


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