# Aluminum vs carbon arrows



## L2fish (Nov 9, 2011)

Hello, im new to this site but so glad ive found it. I have been shooting and hunting with the bow for 25 yrs plus. Now I still use Aluminum 2117 Easton Gamegetters on an older Bear Alaskan compound. My buddies are bustin me for not switching to carbon. I dont know why, after all i did switch to a release this year. Anyway, what would be a recommended size carbon for a 31" shaft at 65 lbs? I know these carbon arrows fly faster but what about bone splitting kinetic energy? Im old school!


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## Squawsach (Apr 26, 2008)

I thoguht I was the only person that still had an Alaskan. It was my first bow. The Gold Tip XT Hunters in 7595 should work fine with a 100 gr. point. They are a very good hunting arrow.


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## woody912 (Oct 24, 2008)

If anything splits bone it is momentum, not kinetic energy. I finally left 2117's and went to 2314's for speed and stability but based on the sound I know the 2117 'uses' more of the bow. My buds are busting me and I'm still fingers and aluminum and my deer is deader than any of theirs. As Ricky Nelson said, ya gotta please yourself


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## eaglecaps (Nov 4, 2009)

Stay with the Aluminum. That ol Bear you have may not be suited to shoot carbon. Dacron string and steel cables? Carbons may be too light. I still use Aluminum as well. HEAVY METAL!!!!


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## c.sitas (Dec 29, 2010)

carbon ain't all it's cracked up to be. Almost anything you can do with carbon ,I can do mostly cheaper and safer with aluminum.I can match your speed , I can also match your weight.Plus they won't stick in your hand. Aluminum ,almost first, last and always.


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## L2fish (Nov 9, 2011)

Wow! Thanks all. Yep, I bought the Alaskan in Geez, maybe 1984 or 85. I had a tear drop come off and had the cables replaced twice but it still flings an arrow pretty well. I thought everyone was carbon happy, I guess not. Thanks again.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

I've switched to carbon shafts for the simple reason I don't like worrying if they are bent. I shot 2117 and 2216 for years and now that I have switched I would never go back. Carbon is superior in every category except in some cases price. But even that is minimal. You can find some pretty cost affective options in carbon now.


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## c.sitas (Dec 29, 2010)

I would ask a question cause I don't know the answer. Where do you draw the line on straightness. The straighter the carbon ,the higher the price.


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## L2fish (Nov 9, 2011)

Native Americand killed critters with sticks, sinew and wood arrows. My buds tell me carbon equals speed, less chance of a deer jumping the string. Right, I hunt the wooded east coast. The majority of my shots are within 20 to 30 yds. I'm not so sure speed will help much in close distances. I bent some arrows this year because I accidently stepped on em. XX75 are pretty tough in most normal shooting conditions. Bows today shooting 345 fps with carbon arrows are unbelievable. A bow shop guy told me they are much less forgiving though than older bows like my Alaskan due to the construction. I wish I had 80% letoff though


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## c.sitas (Dec 29, 2010)

No you don't .Thats where some of the missing starts.


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## muck (May 15, 2005)

have you looked into full metal jackets? nice alu/carbon arrow. nice to see someone else arounf my parts here. are you shooting auburn sportsmans club toys for tots shoot this week end?


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## MonsterArcher1 (Nov 29, 2011)

I've got a old Bear WhiteTail II 65#/30" i shoot fingers with. The arrows i use are Easton FMJ 300 @12gpi X 31" (shaft length only)... Screwed on a 210g Samurai. (thinkn bout tryin the Ashby 315gBH instead for pass throughs all the time.) 
Another shaft to look @... Carbon Express' PileDriver Hunter350 @11.3gpi or the Easton ST Axis FMJ 340 @11.3gpi also. I've noticed a huge difference in penetration when i switched to a heavier BH. No more 100g BH's for me. All about Front Of Center, keep it above 25%. 
EASTON FMJ 300 @15.5gpi for my 80# Monster 7.0 now. But will start shooting the 17.7 or 16.0gpi Dangerous Game Arrows. Talk about Penetration? Yeah. 
I measure not by the 5 g/lb rule but 6g/lb for light arrows and 8g/lb for heavy shafts. Then cut shafts w/o nock attached...
So, 6 x 65lbs =390g shaft only, minimum shaft weight i search for. Then the BH weight is added as well as the HIT Insert and Nock, then fletching (most of the time is purchased Pre-fletched). 
My Bows are extra quiet. Can't wait to feel the heavier 17.7g arrows flung from my bow. 
Well I'm hopin this helps you out. 
"Feel the shot"


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## Michael Stogre (Oct 8, 2007)

By the way it's a myth that carbon arrows are either straight or broken. Datur tertium as they used to say in logic and debating. Carbon arrows can bend. I have one to prove it.
others who are honest can testify that they do warp (bend) over time. I'm certainly not the first one to say or experience this. I do use both and recommend if you prefer aluminum to
try the XX78 superslams by Easton. 

MJS


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## shadowhunter (Oct 12, 2003)

If you are shooting fingers with that bow I would recommend 2219 aluminums for durability strength and kinetic hit power. I have a 1989 Bear Kodiak Express compound I still love to shoot and they just flew better out of that bow. I now shoot Hoyts with carbons but it's all shooting and that's what I love.


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