# building a reflex / deflex type longbow



## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

That could work, especially for your own personal all-wood bows. I have a how-to on building a fiberglass bow with photos of the form I use. It would work great for all wood if you're using a heat-activated epoxy. For an all wood bow, the one you are looking at should be faily good. Not the best, but good enough. Not sure I'd ever use it for a fiberglass composite though...?

As for your wood choices, I like them. Walnut is an elastic belly wood and hickory makes a terrific backing. I'd start off wide and thin though, with limbs at least 2" wide out just past mid limb for any bow of 55# or more.


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## nmubowyer (Feb 7, 2008)

hickory is a good wood to use, ive never made limbs out of walnut though so I cant comment. Will this be your first attempt, or have ya built some bows?


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## ericraybon (Mar 3, 2010)

i have made a couple of other longbows no other reflex / dflex types yet though. this is the one that i just finished http://s773.photobucket.com/albums/yy15/ericraybon/black walnut longbow with oak hickory backing/ . it's got a black walnut belly and a combo backing of white oak and hickory, with a little cedar thrown in the handle for looks. as for the reflex / deflex i'm gonna make i was gonna use smooth on ea-40 and the target weight i'm going for is between 65 and 70 lbs. i'm also at a lose as to how i know the right thickness of the belly wood before i put it on the form so that i don't splinter the bow when i clamp it adn how to tiller a reflex / deflex bow appropriately.


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## nmubowyer (Feb 7, 2008)

i think id use three laminates, in order to get the flexibility, but also the thickness that youll need for the 65-70 lb draw weight


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Three lams would be a _great _way to avoid lifting a splinter when gluing up. For my hickory straight bows, 1/2" thickness is usually my starting point and typically hits my goal of 60-70# at 29". With a D/R glue up, the bends should account for the lower density of the walnut- but for sure don't use anyhting less than 2" wide. At 2" wide and 1/2" thick, you should be able to get it pretty darn close to what you want. It won't be able to take the strain and will most likely take a lot of set if you do.

Also, avoid using light woods like cedar for handles. Heavier woods are best. Using a light wood in the handle results in more handshock than otherwise, and sometimes can even lead to failure depending on the design and how it's used.


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## ericraybon (Mar 3, 2010)

ok, i get what your saying about the handle, as well as the two inch width for the limbs. now what your saying about the limb thickness sounds like use a 1/2" thick piece of walnut for the belly, a and then something like 2 1/8" pieces of hickory or one of oak and one of hickory like i did in the last bow for the backing? or am i misunderstanding what ya'll are saying.


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## nmubowyer (Feb 7, 2008)

if you want your thickness to be 1/2 id have three pieces that add up to 1/2 rather than a single 1/2 piece, cuz 1 single piece will likely lead to frustration


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## ericraybon (Mar 3, 2010)

alright, is what i'm thinking for the backings good? also how am i to go about tillering the bow once i get it formed and cooked?


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## ericraybon (Mar 3, 2010)

oh yeah, and thanks for the patience in answering my questions and helping out. i really appreciate it.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Whoops, I meant 1/2" total limb thickness. As for tillering, go for the "No Set Tillering" method. It knows more than your eyes can tell you. What you do is tiller the bow to where you can string it- it should be close to your desired weight at that point. You then draw the bow to 16" and check the weight. At this point for 60-70# it should be around 35#. Then draw to 17" and let down. Now draw to 16" again and check the weight. If it drops you remove wood from high/stiff spots, or lower the overall thickness to reduce the draw weight. Continue on, drawing one inch farther, then letting down and checking it at 16". Then drawing it one inch further and so on to full draw. You should get there with an excellent tiller and very little set. I usually wind up losing a couple pounds from the 16" mark as I approach the last few inches of draw, resulting in 1" set on average. 

There's more of an explanation on my site under building a selfbow.


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## ericraybon (Mar 3, 2010)

alright, cool. so i'll get one 1/8" of hickory backing and three 1/8" slats of walnut for the core and belly. and then i'll start trying to use that no set tillering method you were talking about. and if i do everything right it should result in a bow with a 60-70 lbs pull at full draw. Thanks. i'll keep this posted on my progress.


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