# Best Method of Aiming Shooting Recurve?



## joearchery (Feb 23, 2004)

I recently started shooting recurve. Looking for suggestions for aiming.


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## barbwire44 (Sep 4, 2002)

Well, this thread is gonna get some biased views but I'll jump in and take the heat!!!
First off let's make this real simple: The bow needs to be tuned before accuracy from any method of shooting can be obtained. If I were the one to teach you how to shoot the first thing I would do was hand you a #40 bow with arrows 2" longer than your draw length, now you must have a good anchor point, either corner of mouth, thumb in cheekbone whatever as long as it is the same everytime, Now just draw to anchor and put the point of that arrow where you want it to hit and see what happens. If the arrow impacts high, ---aim low,,,arrow hits low ---hold high or get shorter arrows...This will not be a widely accepted method among many, but it will get you on the paper alot sooner.


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## Lumis17 (Jun 9, 2003)

Gap shooting, which is what barbwire44 was describing, works best for me. At every yardage just figure out where to hold your arrow tip in relation to the spot you're aiming at. For example, at 30 yards I place my arrow tip like 1/4" or half an arrow tip under the spot I'm aiming at in my peripheral vision. Closer in the gap increases and farther out it decreases until I start measuring the gap with my arrow tip over the spot. Gap shooting gives you a point of reference (the arrow tip) when shooting without the hassle/restrictions of using a sight.

Like barbwire44 said, no matter how you aim you first need to get your bow tuned and get your form worked out.


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## wolfratt (Nov 18, 2003)

How do you tune a recurve? Is there some download that would help and save you guys some keystrokes?


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## AJ008 (Nov 20, 2002)

I just look at the spot and let my mind and body work out where to hit. Works pretty good.


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## p8ntballnryan (Apr 5, 2003)

> I just look at the spot and let my mind and body work out where to hit. Works pretty good.


i second that notion!!!


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## PineLander (Oct 28, 2003)

I don't use the tip of the arrow as a sight, but have seriously been thinking about it when shooting them dang 300 rounds. 

My style of shooting when hunting is called instinctive and right now my fingers don't have enough typin' left in 'em to go into detail, if there is such a thing. Guess that's why they call it "instinctive". Let's just say... both eyes open, point your bow hand at target, focus on target (not the arrow), and let the rest come naturally... with plenty of practice, of course. 

Here's a good read on tuning a bow... O.L. Adcock


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## huntnmuleys (Jan 7, 2004)

i shot compounds instinctively for about 12 years, and i used the "gap" system. worked great. however, since i switched to traditional, the gap doenst work for me. i just look where i want to hit, and hope like hell
brad


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## Woodduck (Feb 23, 2004)

I'd just start about 8-10 yards and pick a spot and shoot by the 'seat of my pants' that's where my enstinks. (hence: instinctive)
Seriously, just try shooting where you feel the arrow will hit your 'spot' that you are staring intently on. Don't drop your arm until after the arrow hits and then sort of keep it there and smile and remember and absorb all the fun you just had.
Later, back up when all shots are 'there'.
To me 'gap' is distracting and I don't use the arrow as a guide but no doubt I'm seeing it subconsciously; so I target practice with high visibility fletching and crest. Your brain will just let you feel it but not without repetition and practice.

don't rule out gap shooting though. I know there are gap shooters that can outshoot me just as there are other instinctive shooters that can too. Try them both and see what gives you best results for your style.


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## Woodduck (Feb 23, 2004)

wolfratt said:


> *How do you tune a recurve? Is there some download that would help and save you guys some keystrokes? *


http://www.centenaryarchers.gil.com.au/basic1.htm#B race Height

I like OL Adcock's tuning page too!!!
Matter of fact I got two of his ASC's. One named Medusa and one named, Jane Doe.


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## Kitsap (Dec 24, 2002)

*Getting started:*

There really isn't all that much involved to tuning a recurve (or longbow for that matter). Especially if you are shooting Traditional (i.e. shooting off the shelf without sights). Basically you're dealing with establishing the brace height and then the nocking point. 

There isn't a whole lot you can do to improve a shelf except choice of material used to line the shelf (cuts down on friction between the arrow and the shelf). A number of materials are used with the simplest being something like Moleskin. What material you use is a matter of preference so I'll leave it at that.

There is a basic starting point for brace height (about 7 1/2" to 8" for a recurve) but each archer should adjust it to suit themselves. It seems that different arrows (or different spined arrows) have an ideal brace height that can only be determined by trial and error. Takes time (and alot of string adjustments) to do this but there really isn't any other way. Lower brace heights give a little better power but will often do so at the expense of accuracy. Once you find a brace height that works you'll probably want to stick with it (changing the brace height often means a new string).

Nocking point location is probably the most adjusted tuning parameter. I start out with a small piece of adhesive tape (like what you use for bandages) about 1/2" long and mabey 1/2 the normal width. Once I have established the proper location I usually remove the tape and put in a more permanent brass nocking point.

Aiming:
Aside from the various methods of aiming (or not aiming), the most important thing you can do to shoot accurately is to develop a CONSISTENT form. Everything counts from your head position over the arrow to your weight distribution on your feet and everything in between. Drop your string elbow a bit as you release or torque the string and it will greatly affect accuracy. Shift your balance or raise your head a bit and you'll be lucky if you hit the broad side of the barn. So work on your form!

Toward the end of perfecting a consistent form (and that goes for shooting from any number of positions), I would recommend that you start out with a very low power bow so that you can practice longer without straining a muscle. 

There are good points and bad points about each of the aiming methods so I would recommend that you give each one a try. Basically, there are three methods of aiming/non-aiming in Traditional archery: Gap shooting, String-walking, Instinctive. Do a Net search to learn more about each but the most common method used is probably Gap shooting with the most admired and aspired to method being Instinctive shooting.


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## ArcCaster (Oct 29, 2003)

There are at least three more styles in addition to gap, sting-walking, and instinctive.

There is point-of-aim, which I will leave for others to describe -- 

And there are a couple kinds of split-vision. One has you look at the target, seeing the arrow out of your peripheral vision, and shoot -- this is like gap-shooting, except you adjust the gap unconsciously instead of consciously.

And the other has you look the length of the arrow, calculating trajectory, with the target a bit fuzzy in the background. Here again, you adjust the trajectory unconsciously. 

I like both kinds of split vision aiming. They both require you to look at both a near object (the arrow) and a far object (the target) at the same time -- one of those objects is bound to be a bit fuzzy -- and they both allow the subconscious to make all the adjustments. So, all you have to do is look and let go. When things are working, these methods can be awesome.


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## robk (Jun 10, 2002)

a friend of mine helped me out and he put it like this use the kiss method. keep it simple stupid!!! he is a friend so i let him get by with that and it works for me. the first thing is to find a comfortable anchor and usually the corner of the mouth does a great job and to use your aiming point by picking out a spot on your target or animal and concentrate on that spot and release nice and smooth. i am shooting groups at 20 yards for hunting of less than a saucer and doing better with my 3d deer at 20 yards. i feel i can comfortably take a deer or pig with my long bow or recurve at that yardage. i do practice longer distances but feel inside of 20 yards for hunting is my best bet for success.
rob k


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## Viking (Aug 8, 2003)

I've tried gap-shooting after reading about it in this forum. My problem is that the gap is so big its hard to use it precisely. Guess it has to do with my anchor point and that I draw with my indexfinger above the arrow.


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## Lumis17 (Jun 9, 2003)

Its defintely harder to gap the farther the arrow is from your eye. Its possible, just harder. You might try putting a sight on your bow to help you memorize your gaps.


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## ArcCaster (Oct 29, 2003)

Viking,

Good point about gap-shooting. What you can do is use some other favorite style for short range, and save the gap shooting for long range. By the time you get out to 55 yards or so, I bet the gaps will be measured in arrow widths -- and then it is definitely a help!


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## Kitsap (Dec 24, 2002)

*Gap Shooting trick:*

To me, Gap shooting is a way to calibrate my mind for Instinctive (aka Reactive) shooting. When gap shooting, it is important to have the arrow shaft - not just the point - in your peripheral vision (this is the so-called split vision technique where you are really concentrating on the target). Spend too much time looking at your arrow point and you'll miss your shot. Look at the entire arrow as you draw - is it level? Or have you inadvertently elevated it? 

Remember that if you are also canting the bow (such as is done with longbows) then any tendency the arrow has to go to the right or left (such as when 'archers paradox' doesn't seem to be working - more about that another time) will be translated into a tendency to shoot high (a bit of high school trigonometry helps here).

One little trick that will help gap shooters and prospective instinctive shooters is to place a 4 to 6 inch length of masking tape (or similar) on the belly of your bow just above the handle. Using a ruler, mark out every 1/4" and label the marks 1 thru whatever. Now you have a reference point to help you remember how much gap will work for whatever distance. This will only help you with the vertical accuracy of course. The horizontal accuracy (affected by 'archer's paradox') is another subject and best left for another time....


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## deadeye (Aug 22, 2002)

Just Shoot and the rest will happen Grasshopper.


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## CAJUNBOWHNTR (Nov 8, 2002)

shooting 3 under with middle finger in corner of mouth puts the arrow closer to the eye.Very accurate for close range if you can get used to shooting 3 under instead of split.


CB


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## Viking (Aug 8, 2003)

Many good ideas. Thanks.

The reason I dont shoot 3 under is that its not allowed in most trad divisions and sighting devices or markings are forbidden too.

I do look at the arrow though - to "line up" and avoid left/right misses, but I try too focus mainly on the target while aiming.

Sometimes everything come together and the result: Bullseye


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