# Need help with paper tuning!!!!



## rolyat008 (Aug 6, 2010)

I have an 09 Pearson r2b2 tx-4 at 74lbs that is giving me a right tear that won't go away. It has a trophy taker pronghorn drop-away and I am shooting a 28" .300 spine arrow. I have already tried using a different release, two different arrows with weaker spines ( one was a .500 spine), and I have already checked for fletching contact (there was none). I have tried using many different grips on the bow to make sure no torque is being induced on the bow. I walk-back tuned it to get the centershot, but still have a 1-2'' right tear. Then I moved the rest about 3/8" to the left of centershot and got close to a bullet hole, but no way will it walk back tune with the rest way off to the left. I really just don't know what could be causing this tear.

So, any suggestions on what I should look at or try would be awesome! Or should I even worry about paper tuning? 

Thanks in advanced.


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## D.Short (Aug 5, 2010)

How far away are you when you shoot thru paper,I'v found 4-6ft to be best;also maybe try lighter point or heavier point;if your'e using the same arrow each shot try different arrow;but honestly if it will walk-back tune 10 to 30 yds at 5 yd increments then I personnaly wouldn't worry,a bullet hole is nice but not always possible.What kind of paper are you using,newspaper I've found can give false or exaggerated readings;I use butcher paper or even better,aluminum foil{it has no grain to the way it's made}newspaper has a grain and sometimes it will just tear the way it wants to with the grain.


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## rolyat008 (Aug 6, 2010)

I shot 3 different arrows and they all tear right. One arrow is 29'' .500 spine, another one is 29'' .400 spine, and the last one is 28'' .300 spine.
I'm standing 4-10ft away,and I'm using brown postal wrapping paper. It's not too flimsy and seems to be giving good, clean tears... I haven't heard of using aluminum foil... might give that a try sometime.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

First I'd ask what is the max. listed draw weight? 74 pounds is a bit much if listed as 70 pounds. If so, check axle to axle length. Should be around 33 1/2".

Even at 74 pounds arrows in the .360 to .321 range with 100 gr tips should produce descent tears. With 125 gr tips .321 to .300 range should work.
If Walk Back tuned and shooting great don't worry about "bullet holes" through paper.
Now, center shot set close, eye balled in, move rest in tiny, tiny increments. Just a tiny bit can have you shooting bullet holes, but if over compensating, moving the rest too far, can produce false results.


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## Rob D (Dec 26, 2009)

Is the Cam timing correct. If not that could be the problem. After checking the timing I would try to broadhead tune it.


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## rolyat008 (Aug 6, 2010)

Yeah, It's a 70lb bow but these bows are known to max out around 75lbs. The axle to axle is actually an 1/8'' long right now. I have it backed down to 72lbs now.

The cam timing is dead on.

I figured out I could get a bullet hole if I intentionally torque the bow just ever so slightly to the left. What could cause that? Cam lean maybe?


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

The TX4s that I have checked and the ones I converted over did not max over 72 pounds, but no two bows are the same. Cam lean is fairly easy to check. Lay a arrow across the cams so to run parallel to the string. If the arrow crosses at either end have cam lean adjusted.

??? The R2B2 cams have a second set of hooks for the main bow string. Make sure the outer most hooks are used.


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## rolyat008 (Aug 6, 2010)

Do you know how to correct cam lean on these bows? shims?
The outer hooks for the string just shortens the draw a 1/2" I thought.


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## fletched (May 10, 2006)

rolyat008 said:


> Do you know how to correct cam lean on these bows? shims?
> The outer hooks for the string just shortens the draw a 1/2" I thought.


You can either switch the limbs around or reshim the cams to correct the center shot. You should be able to puch good holes through the paper. I suggest that you reshim the cams to correct the lean. It won't take much to make a difference. Did you replace the cable slide? This will throw off the center shot if you did. You might even try a few different slides to see if it straigten out the lean and center shot. Here is a pic of a few different slides.


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## rolyat008 (Aug 6, 2010)

I switched the limbs around but it didn't change the lean. I don't think these cams can be shimmed. The bearing is fairly fat and is touching the limb, and if you were to shim it the other way you would have clearance issues with the limb and cam. I started pulling on the cables some and you have to pull them really hard to the left side of the bow(towards the cable slide rod) to get the cams to straighten out, so a different cable slide probably won't help. Last thing I can think of to get the lean out is to switch the limb pockets... but I think they're identical. Does anyone know for sure?

I put a whisker biscuit on it and got rid of the right tear, not sure how but it's finally gone.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

rolyat008 said:


> Yeah, It's a 70lb bow but these bows are known to max out around 75lbs. The axle to axle is actually an 1/8'' long right now. I have it backed down to 72lbs now.
> 
> The cam timing is dead on.
> 
> I figured out I could get a bullet hole if I intentionally torque the bow just ever so slightly to the left. What could cause that? Cam lean maybe?




BINGO!!!! Cam lean is your issue if you intentionally torque your bow and get a perfect hole. 

JT


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## rolyat008 (Aug 6, 2010)

Yeah it's the cam lean causing it. I tried broadhead tuning it as well and it is flying about 6 inches to the right of my field points. I've already tried to get the lean out, but haven't had any luck... I'm just about to give up on it


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Cams like the R2B2s are finicky. Suggest you trying untwisting the cables with possibly moving the bow string to one or the the set of hooks.

Don't know if you grasped what was said above about not worrying about paper tuning results if Walk Back tuning shows good. Paper tuning is only a step in the tuning process. Some of the best shooting bows I ever had gave poor paper tears and this with perfecting center shot with French tuning. Once you are happy with Walk Back, then test bh to field points. If off, move in tiny increments, as in t-i-n-y. A ever so slight move can make a big difference. Too much of a move and you'll be fighting it. Mark your rest somehow, sharp pencil.


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## rolyat008 (Aug 6, 2010)

Yeah, I basically already called it quits on paper tuning. I just thought I would do the broadhead tuning after a walk-back tune and still just got poor results. I'll try moving the rest in tiny increments and see what happens. Thanks


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## fletched (May 10, 2006)

rolyat008 said:


> Yeah, I basically already called it quits on paper tuning. I just thought I would do the broadhead tuning after a walk-back tune and still just got poor results. I'll try moving the rest in tiny increments and see what happens. Thanks


It doesn't take much of a change to make a difference. A little longer slide will make a difference at full draw. You are about out of options. Your local shop should have some to let you experiment with. It's worth a try.


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## rolyat008 (Aug 6, 2010)

I'll try a different slide and see what happens if I can't get it straight with the small rest adjustments.


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