# Arrows Hit Target Knock Right



## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

Norman,

Looks like you're running into a similar problem that I'm seeing with my Platinum Plus 1913 arrows (about 730 spine) with my 30 pound bow. My arrows consistently hit slightly nock right despite proper center shot, plunger tension and limb alignment. It turns out I probably need more point weight to make my arrows' dynamic spine softer. I got the heavier points yesterday afternoon and will be trying them out tonight. It appears that point weight can make a dramatic difference in the way your arrows fly. It's also a lot cheaper to change the point weight than it is to buy different arrows. The points I have (arrows hitting nock-right) are about 65 grains. The points I bought are about 120 grains. According to Stu Miller's spine calculator, that ought to get me in the ballpark where the lighter points result in too stiff dynamic spine. 

So many variables!

-Kent


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## HikerDave (Jan 1, 2011)

Norman2 said:


> Hi, Need some help, I shoot an SF Forged plus riser with 22# SF Premium Wood Limbs at 28 1/4" Draw Length.
> The Easton Chart recommends 900 Carbon One Arrows so that is what I bought. Arrows fly straight with 2.3"
> Vanetec SS vanes but most of the time hit about 1 1/2" knock right. Coach says center shot, plunger tension
> and limb alignment are OK so he says it is in my release. Question is have I got the right arrow spine to start with
> ...


The string will slip past your fingers without you needing to open them -- even played back in slow motion video the string should look like it magically went through your fingers. More like a slight relaxation of tension that happens automatically as you begin your follow-through. That's a skill that takes some time and effort to learn, though. Believe your coach.

I think that 1000 Carbon Ones are probably more correct for your bow, unless you use heavy points and a light string with the 900 Carbon Ones. But the stiffer arrows that you are using now are probably more tolerant of release variations so you should probably just stick with what you have for now.


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## ButchD (Nov 11, 2006)

HikerDave said:


> The string will slip past your fingers without you needing to open them -- even played back in slow motion video the string should look like it magically went through your fingers. More like a slight relaxation of tension that happens automatically as you begin your follow-through. That's a skill that takes some time and effort to learn, though. Believe your coach.
> 
> I think that 1000 Carbon Ones are probably more correct for your bow, unless you use heavy points and a light string with the 900 Carbon Ones. But the stiffer arrows that you are using now are probably more tolerant of release variations so you should probably just stick with what you have for now.


Hi Norman2, 
Good advise. 
Just out of curiousity, how long are your arrows from nock groove to the end of the carbon shaft?
Thanks, Butch


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## Norman2 (Aug 4, 2012)

Hi Butch. My Arrows from nock groove to end of shaft are 27 3/8". Regards
Norman


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## ButchD (Nov 11, 2006)

Hi Norman,
After consulting the Easton Target Shaft oracle, it looks like you are between T1 and T2, and are presently shooting the recommended shaft.
I am shooting a 29" shaft, draw weight 27# at 30". The Easton chart indicated for me: T4 around .710 spine. I am presently shooting a 29" .900 spine arrow with 110g tips.
Tha bareshaft is about 8-9" stiff at 18M. We'll both be working on the release and follow through! The 1.020 shafts are closer to right, but I group slightly better with the .900s. 
The group's the thing.
Best, Butch


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## lksseven (Mar 21, 2010)

increasing brace height will also result in weakening the dynamic spine of the arrow shaft.


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## b840903 (Dec 4, 2012)

Hi norman2, so you mean the arrow is hitting the left of the target correct? then increase your Draw Weight by adjusting your riser or Increase the brace height by twist the strings more and make the length between the grip and the string longer for example, if you use a T-scale you measure the length between your grip and the string, and the T-scale shows 7 1/2(there is a minimum and maximum length for your poundage and so don't go over that), then make it longer by twisting the string more. This will give you littie bit more of draw weight. Also making your pluger stiffer will help you. Good luck on your tunning!


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## Norman2 (Aug 4, 2012)

b840903 said:


> Hi norman2, so you mean the arrow is hitting the left of the target correct? then increase your Draw Weight by adjusting your riser or Increase the brace height by twist the strings more and make the length between the grip and the string longer for example, if you use a T-scale you measure the length between your grip and the string, and the T-scale shows 7 1/2(there is a minimum and maximum length for your poundage and so don't go over that), then make it longer by twisting the string more. This will give you littie bit more of draw weight. Also making your pluger stiffer will help you. Good luck on your tunning!


Hi, Thanks but my arrows are not hitting to the left of the target, My Arrows are hitting in the gold (center) but are knock right.
The brace height is correct but I can increase my Draw weight but do not think that is the issue. Regards
Norman


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## KenYeoh (Feb 21, 2010)

Norman2 said:


> Hi, Thanks but my arrows are not hitting to the left of the target, My Arrows are hitting in the gold (center) but are knock right.
> The brace height is correct but I can increase my Draw weight but do not think that is the issue. Regards
> Norman


Hi Norman,

Increasing the brace height will bring your arrow in closer to the riser, which will weaken the arrow, having a similar effect to (1) increasing draw weight, (2) increasing arrow tip weight, (3) lightening the string, (4) removing weight from the back of the arrow, (5) a few other things like plunger position and tension, it's too early in the morning for me to think about this .

What LKS is saying, is that if you want to keep your set-up relatively similar to what it is now and "fix" your nock-right problem, which seems to be due to a stiff spine, one of your options is to increase your brace height.


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## atjurhs (Oct 19, 2011)

The only way to know for certain wheather an arrow is too weak or too stiff is to bareshaft tune them. Stu Miller's software program ande Easton's charts can not account for several of the variables. btw, I would always start with one T number lower than what Easton's chart recommends, so I would agree with ButchD in starting with T1 shafts. Leave them a little long (knowing that will make them "weaker") and start bareshaft tuning. Follow the guidlines of "Tuning for Teens" and you will end up with and arrow that is match to your bow.

Without bareshaft tuning you are just taking stabs in the dark.


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## agillator (Sep 11, 2011)

atjurhs said:


> ...Without bareshaft tuning you are just taking stabs in the dark.


+1 on atjurhs' recommendation for bare-shaft tuning. Until you do that and verify that your bare shafts are hitting with your vaned shafts (at 18m or further) this thread will only meander around without conclusion. Do that, make any (draw weight) adjustments you need to get them to hit together, then report back about any further problems you are seeing.


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## BobCo19-65 (Sep 4, 2009)

One thing to be sure of is that the arrow is pointed straight at the target as it is leaving the bow. A while ago I had a very similar problem. A tell tale was that the sight was nowhere near close to being over the shaft. Are you also sure that you are not getting some torque either in the grip or string (from your hook on the string)?


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