# draw board. how to?



## nuts&bolts

brokenbone264 said:


> I need to prob make one to use it to tune my bow. how to and what will i need? Thanks BB


A draw board is basically a wooden board,
say about 6 feet long,
with a 1/2-inch diameter threaded pipe on one end...

and

a pulling device on the other end,
usually a boat winch.

Some folks will split a section of garden hose
to wrap around the 1/2-inch diameter pipe.

I am lazy,
and just used some electrical tape
and wrapped the pipe.


Two styles.

Flat

Vertical


Flat style,
sits on a workbench or saw horse,
and the bow is also flat.


Vertical style,
has your bow just like you are holding it.











1/2-inch threaded pipe (say 8-inches long)

Floor plate for threaded pipe (1/2-inch threaded hole)

Use some screws to attach the floor plate to the center of the board.

2x6 board
or
2x8 board

Buy a 6-ft long board.


http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=4772&categoryID=197

Two-way Fulton Winch for $19.99


Now,
one thing to remember.

You want the rope to feed into the winch,
so that the rope feeds about 3-inches HIGHER than the center of your pipe.


Why?

Most folks have the nock touch their jawbone or thereabouts on the side of their face.


Everybody has their bowhand
at about shoulder height.

So,
the nock is ALWAYS at least the length of your neck
above the the bow hand thumb.











Easier to see with a vertical draw board.


The pipe should be "LOWER" than the rope feeding into the winch.
The pipe is about where your bow hand thumb is located,
when you are at full draw.



Use a turnbuckle.










You can make small changes.











Use a speed link (adjustable chain link).

I also use a backup loop of parachute cord,
just in case the d-loop decides to break.


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## brokenbone264

*Holy cow*

I hope you cut and paste that reply. That was Great. Just what I am looking for. THANKS.

I wonder if this should be a sticky?


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## bcbow1971

Nice and seen that before. I used a 4x4 piece of wood. I used 3.4Inch pipe also instead of 1.2". I used two 90degree elbows to offset the bow side of the draw board instead of moving the crank. I bought some 1" clear water hose at Lowes(by the foot) and slid it over the pipe. I actually place my 4x4 into my vice that is mounted on my work bench. 

The one above will work just as well, just letting you know of some options. 

I need to take pictures of it and post also. It works on all my bows. With any draw baords you need to make something as a backup just in case your loop gives way like he did above. I also used heavy duty electrical wire and wrapped around the pipe and the bow near the grip so the bow would not fall either if there was any issues. Get to know your cranking mechanism and the different positions of the swithch and what they do because you could get a supprised....lol

Good luck!!!


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## Huaco

N&B... 
What is the purpose of tieing your loop with the knots tied together and putting a nocking point ABOVE the loop?


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## fat kid

*why?*

im not trying to be a smarta** but why do i need a drawboard. what purpose does a drawboard serve in tunning a bow. I have tunned a lot of bows and never used one. please inlighten me to this method.


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## Huaco

fat kid said:


> im not trying to be a smarta** but why do i need a drawboard. what purpose does a drawboard serve in tunning a bow. I have tunned a lot of bows and never used one. please inlighten me to this method.


It allows you to SAFELY draw the bow to JUST where the dual or binary cams touch the string to check timing. 

OK... that is all I know about how to use a draw board. N&B. You have anything else to add?


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## asa1485

I just used a 2X6 , a half inch bolt with clear tubing over it, and a geared winch from Harbor Freight.




























Works great. The geared winch allows me to stop anywhere I want without having to go to the next click like on a regular boat trailer.


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## nuts&bolts

Huaco said:


> N&B...
> What is the purpose of tieing your loop with the knots tied together and putting a nocking point ABOVE the loop?


I use a blade arrow rest,
a ProTuner.

So,
with the knots of the d-loop together,
and both knots UNDER the arrow nock...

this does two things:

a) adds a bit of down pressure on the front of the arrow,
so the arrow presses onto the blade tip,
and helps to keep the arrow from falling off the blade arrow rest...

and

b) this puts the d-loop closer to the physical center of the bowstring.
i believe this helps achieve level nock travel on a twin cam bow.


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## nuts&bolts

Huaco said:


> It allows you to SAFELY draw the bow to JUST where the dual or binary cams touch the string to check timing.
> 
> OK... that is all I know about how to use a draw board. N&B. You have anything else to add?


The draw board is a handy device to hold the bow at full draw.

When the bow is at full draw,
then you can take your time
and get extremely accurate measurements....

e.g., vertical measurement from arrow centerline to centerline of the peep sight

e.g., horizontal distance between peep sight centerline
and the backside of your pins or scope lens

e.g., extremely accurate measurements for tiller

e.g., measuring cam lean when the bow is at full draw
(if you have a static yoke cable, you can figure out which leg is too long)

e.g., measuring the distance between the pivot point (deepest part of the curve on the grip) 
to the inside edge of the center serving, while at full draw.


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## bcbow1971

nuts&bolts said:


> The draw board is a handy device to hold the bow at full draw.
> 
> When the bow is at full draw,
> then you can take your time
> and get extremely accurate measurements....
> 
> e.g., vertical measurement from arrow centerline to centerline of the peep sight
> 
> e.g., horizontal distance between peep sight centerline
> and the backside of your pins or scope lens
> 
> e.g., extremely accurate measurements for tiller
> 
> e.g., measuring cam lean when the bow is at full draw
> (if you have a static yoke cable, you can figure out which leg is too long)
> 
> e.g., measuring the distance between the pivot point (deepest part of the curve on the grip)
> to the inside edge of the center serving, while at full draw.


Very nice as always N&B...cam you take a picture of your bow on the drawboard and show me where you are measuring all the measurments listed above? I think I understand most but not all! 
Thanks Brian


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## jrmysell

I'm just subscribing to this


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## Huaco

nuts&bolts said:


> The draw board is a handy device to hold the bow at full draw.
> 
> When the bow is at full draw,
> then you can take your time
> and get extremely accurate measurements....
> 
> e.g., vertical measurement from arrow centerline to centerline of the peep sight
> 
> e.g., horizontal distance between peep sight centerline
> and the backside of your pins or scope lens
> 
> e.g., extremely accurate measurements for tiller
> 
> e.g., measuring cam lean when the bow is at full draw
> (if you have a static yoke cable, you can figure out which leg is too long)
> 
> e.g., measuring the distance between the pivot point (deepest part of the curve on the grip)
> to the inside edge of the center serving, while at full draw.


Ok LugNut...

You opened up a can of worms inside my head. I am trying to figure out what purpose all these measurements would serve.

Can you PLEASE explain what these measurements will do while tuning a bow. I shoot a FireCAT with the CAT cams.


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## brash

i see only one point the riser is held by. anybody afraid the bow might pivit. anybody have pics of one verticle. i'm making a press and hope to build a draw board into it.


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## nuts&bolts

brash said:


> i see only one point the riser is held by. anybody afraid the bow might pivit. anybody have pics of one verticle. i'm making a press and hope to build a draw board into it.


Here ya go.


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## nuts&bolts

Huaco said:


> Ok LugNut...
> 
> You opened up a can of worms inside my head. I am trying to figure out what purpose all these measurements would serve.
> 
> Can you PLEASE explain what these measurements will do while tuning a bow. I shoot a FireCAT with the CAT cams.


Hello Huaco:

Most of these measurements,
are required, 
when using archery software programs 
(they make sight tapes for target shooters).

So,
these sight tape programs request certain information:

a) peak draw weight

b) holding weight

c) peep sight height (centerline of arrow to centerline of peep sight)

d) peep sight radius (horizontal distance from peep to lens/pins)

e) brace height




Now,
measuring cam lean,
when the bow is at full draw.....

The first few inches of arrow travel,
after you release the arrow is very important,
to how well your arrow flies into the target.

Sooooo,

when I have my bow at full draw,
in my homemade draw board...

I will hold a carbon arrow tight against the side of the top cam,
and then rotate the arrow,
unti the arrow is parallel to the bowstring.

Now,
if the cam is dead vertical,
then the bowstring will feed STRAIGHT into the string groove.

So,
if the bowstring feeds STRAIGHT into the string groove,
then the edge of the arrow
should be perfectly parallel
to the edge of the bowstring.

Just check the gap,
between the bowstring and the arrow.

If the gap is dead parallel,
the gap will be the same size at the top of arrow,
at the middle of arrow,
at the other end of the arrow.


If the gap between the arrow
and the bowstring gets narrower and narrower...
the cam is leaning.


If the gap between the arrow
and the bowstring is getting wider and wider,
the cam is leaning.


If you have a static yoke cable,
then the fix is easy....
just shorten the long leg.


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## Gunner7800

Any suggestions for an inexpensive scale to check draw weight and holding weight?


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## ka30270

Great post...........I want to be able to find it again!!!!!!!


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## proelitefan

*draw board*

so, when i saw this post i decided to share my own draw board, when i made my bow press i new i needed a draw board, so i came up with a 2 in 1 toy.
the draw board attaches to the bow press and works well in my h.o.
so here goes some pics of the d.b, and it only cost me around $55 with all materials included.
the winch came from a boat store, cant remember the name, but if you find one thats smaller its good too, cause this ones over kill.
have fun, i did...lol


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## proelitefan

*more pics*

the u end piece where the bow attaches to was designed for lefties, i would change that square tube for a round tube and just dip it in some protective coating, if i had to do another one thats how it would be done.


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## proelitefan

*more pics...*

a pic of my bow press...


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## Ancient Archer

Unless I missed it above, a few very important features that can be measured & adjusted when using the draw board:

Cam timing/syncronization.
Draw length.
Arrow length
Peak draw weight.
Let off draw weight.


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## OrangeBlood

nuts&bolts said:


> Hello Huaco:
> 
> Now,
> measuring cam lean,
> when the bow is at full draw.....
> 
> The first few inches of arrow travel,
> after you release the arrow is very important,
> to how well your arrow flies into the target.
> 
> Sooooo,
> 
> when I have my bow at full draw,
> in my homemade draw board...
> 
> I will hold a carbon arrow tight against the side of the top cam,
> and then rotate the arrow,
> unti the arrow is parallel to the bowstring.
> 
> Now,
> if the cam is dead vertical,
> then the bowstring will feed STRAIGHT into the string groove.
> 
> So,
> if the bowstring feeds STRAIGHT into the string groove,
> then the edge of the arrow
> should be perfectly parallel
> to the edge of the bowstring.
> 
> Just check the gap,
> between the bowstring and the arrow.
> 
> If the gap is dead parallel,
> the gap will be the same size at the top of arrow,
> at the middle of arrow,
> at the other end of the arrow.
> 
> 
> If the gap between the arrow
> and the bowstring gets narrower and narrower...
> the cam is leaning.
> 
> 
> If the gap between the arrow
> and the bowstring is getting wider and wider,
> the cam is leaning.
> 
> 
> If you have a static yoke cable,
> then the fix is easy....
> just shorten the long leg.


So to get accurate results with this method I would assume you have to have a perfectly aligned draw board, if your winch is not pulling back in line your string could be off just a little either way, which would look like cam lean. how do you assure your getting a straight pull back using the draw board, or am I thinking about this wrong?


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## kevin39208

*Bookmark*

for a great post. Thanks guys for the info


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## proelitefan

if you have cam lean trust me you will notice it, with this rig at full draw youll be able to see your cams if they lean at all.
the other question was about the rig itself if it could cause a fake cam lean due to some kind of torque...well i will say no, cause the riser sits free on the rig and moves around, so when you draw the winch back the riser finds its spot and just stays there.
another feature i like about it is to balance the bow with my stabs and add wheights where i need them and i can see how it actualy sits as if it was in my hands, well close enough any case.


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## gbear

*subscribing*

cause in the last month i've come to realize that i really should have one and I'm gonna build one. 
Is there any disadvantage or extra advantage to a draw board that uses a linear rail?


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## brokenbone264

*Post to a sticky?*

This page has some great ideas on how to build a draw board as well as different types. Thanks guys for all the great input. Keep it up and going for others.


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## nuts&bolts

mkeyes001 said:


> So to get accurate results with this method I would assume you have to have a perfectly aligned draw board, if your winch is not pulling back in line your string could be off just a little either way, which would look like cam lean. how do you assure your getting a straight pull back using the draw board, or am I thinking about this wrong?


The pipe (1/2-inch threaded) is very stiff.
The handle/grip of the bow is also fairly hard.










Therefore,
when the the boat winch pulls back on the bowstring,
nothing is gripping the bow,
so the bow will freely rotate to match the pull angle of the winch rope.

So,
since the bow grip can in rotate any direction,
then the bow riser will have zero torque,
and holding the ruler or carbon arrow
tight against the cam,
will show you if the cam is twisted/leaning sideways
or not...

so,
no alignment needed for a draw board.

Just use a 1/2-inch threaded pipe,
and do not tie the bow grip to the pipe,
just rely on the pulling force from the winch rope
to pull the grip against the 1/2-inch threaded pipe nipple.


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## simon miller

*binary cam?*

how do you fix cam lean on the binary cam cp bows?


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## SET THE HOOK

made me one today and it works great!


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## redman

Can i by one all ready made


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## HCA Iron Mace

I use my draw board with my Detowis bow press, if I need to make a change on timing I just ingage the press and relax the draw and adjust cables or what not, then draw the bow and disingage the press to relax the bow. The bow never comes off the board to change strings or cables, works out great. The heck with walking back and forth to the press and draw board!!!


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## special

Heres mine..Can be used horizontaly or verticaly and is attached to a bench via a pin...It can be removed and stored away..



















The winch is mounted on the underside and the cable(bow string) runs thru the 3 x 2" RHS over a boat roller..










this keeps it short..And I also have a mount on the back of my 4WD for it and my linear press..










the cable runs thru two rollers..One is adjustable to set the 'anchor point'..










Its got a rule fitted..And its easy to use..i havent got the turn buckle or scale fitted in the pics..But thweres heaps of room..
I turned all the bits in my shed,including the pin which has multiple holes to screw into..











And yep..My shed is a bloody mess...lol.


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## outback195

*I will say !*

This is the Tru meaning to archers helping archers ! Thanks guys:thumbs_up


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## SET THE HOOK

someone asked for pics of the bow holder here is a idea of what i used, 1" threaded pipe and taped it up.


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## jim46ok

*I was where you are...*

I was where you are with the idea of a drawboard... then I got to brainstorming, could not afford a Hooter Shooter, so made my own. Have refined it, and we use it almost everyday in our shop. Figure your $$, time, aggravation, and compare it to this.... and, you can Tune arrows, too.

Check out our website below--

Good Luck!


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## tonnanitro

this is a great thread. got the gears turning in my head now!


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## nuts&bolts

redman said:


> Can i by one all ready made


Yes.

The Omni Straight Line bowpress is $299.

The Omni Straight Line bowpress with draw station is $399.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=917744&referrerid=22477

See posts #1 through #10.


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## steeld3_4

This may be a silly question but, how do you let it down slowly without it dry firing? Do you just hold the handle on the winch as it lets down? Has anyone ever had the handle slip and dry fire?


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## gbear

steeld3_4 said:


> This may be a silly question but, how do you let it down slowly without it dry firing? Do you just hold the handle on the winch as it lets down? Has anyone ever had the handle slip and dry fire?


if you use one like this with a wormgear, you can go forward and back without fear of busted knuckles or bow.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5798


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## ruttnwapati

*Worm gear hand winch*



gbear said:


> if you use one like this with a wormgear, you can go forward and back without fear of busted knuckles or bow.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5798


I don't see how this would help one in NOT haveing the bow dry fire or slip.
The product manual clearly states there is NO locking mechanism owner must secure load. Eploded view shows no lock on the spool or worm gear. Just my two cents: unsafe POS.


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## nuts&bolts

steeld3_4 said:


> This may be a silly question but, how do you let it down slowly without it dry firing? Do you just hold the handle on the winch as it lets down? Has anyone ever had the handle slip and dry fire?


If you use a boat winch,
I suggest a "two-way" boat winch,
which 
has a ratchet lock for the forward direction
and
has a ratchet lock for the reverse direction.

Even with a two-way boat winch,
still just hang onto the handle,
while getting to full draw
and
while letting down to at rest.


http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=4772&categoryID=197

$20 for a 600 lb capacity, two-way ratchet lock boat winch.


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## ryball

ruttnwapati said:


> I don't see how this would help one in NOT haveing the bow dry fire or slip.
> The product manual clearly states there is NO locking mechanism owner must secure load. Eploded view shows no lock on the spool or worm gear. Just my two cents: unsafe POS.


It is my understanding that worm gears do not need safeties. The worm can turn the gear, but the gear cannot turn the worm.

http://www.electrolift.com/the-worm-gear-advantage.php


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## gbear

ryball said:


> It is my understanding that worm gears do not need safeties. The worm can turn the gear, but the gear cannot turn the worm.
> 
> http://www.electrolift.com/the-worm-gear-advantage.php


nice link good explaination.
The greater the gear reduction just magnifies this affect, ie. 40:1 that the harbor freight winch has compared to a 5:1 that would likely backdrive. 

I was just using my drawboard last night with the harbor freight worm winch, no issues whatsoever at 70#.


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## inthestand

Looking at the pics it looks like you guys have your bow supported by a single post (for lack of a better term). I am a little confused with that.. What if your bow rocks back during the draw? That would not be good. I have to be missing something here.. Fill me in..


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## gbear

inthestand said:


> Looking at the pics it looks like you guys have your bow supported by a single post (for lack of a better term). I am a little confused with that.. What if your bow rocks back during the draw? That would not be good. I have to be missing something here.. Fill me in..


yes that is true. nothing is gripping the bow. the post is a pivot point. the bow is free to rotate to match the pull angle of the winch. It's not going to roll over the post.
Introducing torque to the system, by gripping the bow firm would not be good, as some of the measurements that you would be taking, ie. cam lean, need a torque free system.


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## Gunner7800

ruttnwapati said:


> I don't see how this would help one in NOT haveing the bow dry fire or slip.
> The product manual clearly states there is NO locking mechanism owner must secure load. Eploded view shows no lock on the spool or worm gear. Just my two cents: unsafe POS.


This is the same wench I put on my drawboard. It works just fine. The gear ratio is SO SSSSSSSSLLLLLOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWW it doesn't need a lock. I can have my bow at full draw and slap the handle to unwind it. The handle stops spinning before 3 complete revolutions which equates to about 1 inch in draw length. 

I have finally double nutted the handle into place so I can use my cordless drill with a socket to draw my bow. Not sure how many revolutions it takes to fully draw my 29" draw length, but it's A LOT. Got sick of counting.


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## jlnel

nice


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## Tx Trapper

Gunner7800 said:


> This is the same wench I put on my drawboard. It works just fine. The gear ratio is SO SSSSSSSSLLLLLOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWW it doesn't need a lock. I can have my bow at full draw and slap the handle to unwind it. The handle stops spinning before 3 complete revolutions which equates to about 1 inch in draw length.
> 
> I have finally double nutted the handle into place so I can use my cordless drill with a socket to draw my bow. Not sure how many revolutions it takes to fully draw my 29" draw length, but it's A LOT. Got sick of counting.



x2:nod::nod::nod:


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## gr8brew

Here is a good vid of one in use I got a load cell on ebay Im making one just like this.

http://www.elitearchery.com/technology/videos/


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## FiveOarcher

*great question/post*

marking it so i can find it again- thanks


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## gr8brew

Just subscribing 

Cheers


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## brokenbone264

*glad to see it still going*

Thanks for all the replys. I will have to post pics of my draw board. I built it from the posts here. Good to see there are many others looking for the same thing. Thanks and keep it going.


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## BLFD1

Great thread! Tagged for later.


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## firefighter33

Good info


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## shooter6687

So where are you guy's getting your scales from? also digital or ? I have been looking around for a scale..


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## jskd

I'm also looking for a draw weight scale.....


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## Stab 'em

*$20.00 hand-held bow scale*

Check out the Balanzza Digital Luggage scale. You can get them at Bed, Bath and Beyond. They are $20.00 and work good for checking peak weight and even holding weight. http://www.balanzza.com


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## Stab 'em

FYI: The worm gear "precise positioning" winch is the way to go when making a draw board or shooting machine. The worm gear style of winch allows you to stop an any point in the draw cycle, whereas a ratcheting type "boat" winch must stop and lock in a given ratchet. At full draw this may have to stop short or even too far into the back wall to lock into place. This will not simulate what you do when you draw the bow back, and will not make an accurate draw board or shooting machine for measuring and tuning if it does not come to full draw exactly at the same point as the archer does.

On another note: If you make your draw board out of structurally sound tubing and portable (with 3 legs) you can use it as a shooting machine to do long range arrow tuning. Check out my simple design that I made a few weeks ago for less than $100.00, including gas. I was shooting at 70 yards with it last week as a trial run, and love it! You sight to your target and fire the release just as if you were holding it yourself. I found that it is just as accurate as a manufactured machine, so long as you can release clean and can see what your shooting at!
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1162131


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## hunt123

N&B, on your design, any reason a guy couldn't put a release on the end of the rope instead of a hook and use it as a "hooter shooter"? Seems like it would work.


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## skip5515

*Draw board*

You need to use the worm gear or a liner type to make it easyer to use as you can stop and start with out changing weight reading, as with a boat winch and the retchet when it clicks or you bach up it changes the scale reading and if using a digital scale it really mess your reading up. I started with a boat winch back in about 1987 and have done hundreds of bows and the winch has never got a way, but save your selfs some time and money and start with a worm winch and save the head aches.

Here is a couple pics of mine it can be used horizontal or vertical, the post you see by the winch is for the leggs so you can turn it rh.vertical or lh or lay it horizontal and these changes can be made in minutes and also makes it easier to store or travel with. Back in the 80's and 90's I used to sell them but havn't for a while. Hope this helps. P>S> I was going to add more pics but won't let me so if interested PM me with your e-mail and I will send more. Thanks


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## skip5515

*draw board*

got the pics to go.


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## shooter6687

skip5515 said:


> got the pics to go.


Thanks for posting the picks skip5515


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## BlindBuck

Just thought I'd share my Draw Board Station. Works great plus its mobile, and my bow vise is attached to it.


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## duxbux

BlindBuck said:


> Just thought I'd share my Draw Board Station. Works great plus its mobile, and my bow vise is attached to it.


Where did you get the piece of metal or aluminum in the pic?


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## BlindBuck

duxbux said:


> Where did you get the piece of metal or aluminum in the pic?


It is extruded aluminum. I got it from work, it is something the installers use when outfitting police cars with equipment. I'm sure a google search could find suppliers of it. I order it from Havis http://www.havis.com/, but it comes with an equipment console. I'm not sure if just the channel can be ordered.


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## hunt123

BlindBuck said:


> It is extruded aluminum. I got it from work, it is something the installers use when outfitting police cars with equipment. I'm sure a google search could find suppliers of it. I order it from Havis http://www.havis.com/, but it comes with an equipment console. I'm not sure if just the channel can be ordered.


That's a really nice draw board, not that the others shown previously aren't but yours looks quite easy to build. Is that the regular ratcheting boat crank or is it the worm gear one? If it's the regular one, do you have any problems wanting to stop in between clicks?


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## hunt123

skip5515 said:


> You need to use the worm gear or a liner type to make it easyer to use as you can stop and start with out changing weight reading, as with a boat winch and the retchet when it clicks or you bach up it changes the scale reading and if using a digital scale it really mess your reading up. I started with a boat winch back in about 1987 and have done hundreds of bows and the winch has never got a way, but save your selfs some time and money and start with a worm winch and save the head aches.





BlindBuck said:


> Just thought I'd share my Draw Board Station. Works great plus its mobile, and my bow vise is attached to it.


Where did you guys get your digital scales?


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## Gunner7800

hunt123 said:


> That's a really nice draw board, not that the others shown previously aren't but yours looks quite easy to build. Is that the regular ratcheting boat crank or is it the worm gear one? If it's the regular one, do you have any problems wanting to stop in between clicks?


One thing about using a boat wench or other ratcheting crank rather than a worm gear is you can put a turnbuckle inline. You crank the wench to where it is just shy if being fully drawn, then you can use a turnbuckle to finish it without over drawing the bow. 

Just a thought.


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## BlindBuck

hunt123 said:


> Where did you guys get your digital scales?


Here is the link http://www.americanweigh.com/product_info.php?cPath=46&products_id=485

Mine is a ratcheting type winch. Each click is 1/8th of an inch so I haven't run into any big problems. I just tune a bow either right against the draw stop or just short of it.


----------



## Gunner7800

BlindBuck said:


> Here is the link http://www.americanweigh.com/product_info.php?cPath=46&products_id=485
> 
> Mine is a ratcheting type winch. Each click is 1/8th of an inch so I haven't run into any big problems. I just tune a bow either right against the draw stop or just short of it.


Is this one of those scales that shuts off after 3 seconds of measuring, or does it stay on till you are done?


----------



## dave308

Gunner7800 said:


> Is this one of those scales that shuts off after 3 seconds of measuring, or does it stay on till you are done?


Its stays on till you shut if off.


----------



## InKYfromSD

*Modify a drawboard for "fingers"*

Great designs everyone! It seems that a drawboard really lends itself to a release setup more so than fingers. Any ideas on how to modify the string attachment to mimic someone shooting fingers and a tab? Does it even really matter that much? I can see where this would be far superior to my kids taking pictures of my hunting bow cams at full draw!


----------



## Stab 'em

InKYfromSD said:


> Great designs everyone! It seems that a drawboard really lends itself to a release setup more so than fingers. Any ideas on how to modify the string attachment to mimic someone shooting fingers and a tab? Does it even really matter that much? I can see where this would be far superior to my kids taking pictures of my hunting bow cams at full draw!


If you only want it to draw the bow then all you would have to do is trace your hand pattern to a piece of balsa wood. (There isn't too much whittling and carving to mimic a hand and three fingers drawing an arrow, but getting it exactly like yours will take some patience!) Then that pattern can be cast into aluminum pretty easily and a cable attached to it so it will draw on a board. I did an aluminum Hurst Shifter T-handle in Metal's Shop in high school years ago, so if your local high school has a metal shop the instructor may take on that part of the project. Good luck with it, and post your pictures.


----------



## crazy4hunting

i think i saw six feet was needed, but some of you guys look like yours arnt that long. my bow room is not all that big, just wondering how some of you looked like you shortended it up. thansk


----------



## BlindBuck

crazy4hunting said:


> i think i saw six feet was needed, but some of you guys look like yours arnt that long. my bow room is not all that big, just wondering how some of you looked like you shortended it up. thansk


I don't know why some need 6' mine is 50" total length of the extruded aluminum, and the max draw length is beyond 36" so I have plenty of room to spare with a 30.5" draw.


----------



## skip5515

Gunner7800 said:


> One thing about using a boat wench or other ratcheting crank rather than a worm gear is you can put a turnbuckle inline. You crank the wench to where it is just shy if being fully drawn, then you can use a turnbuckle to finish it without over drawing the bow.
> 
> Just a thought.


With worm there is no need for turnbuckle, you can watch scale till it hit peak let off and if need be can back it up no problem.


----------



## hunt123

Gunner7800 said:


> One thing about using a boat wench or other ratcheting crank rather than a worm gear is you can put a turnbuckle inline. You crank the wench to where it is just shy if being fully drawn, then you can use a turnbuckle to finish it without over drawing the bow.
> 
> Just a thought.


Great idea. If a person already has a ratchet or can't get a worm gear, that would work perfectly.


----------



## Gunner7800

skip5515 said:


> With worm there is no need for turnbuckle, you can watch scale till it hit peak let off and if need be can back it up no problem.


Yup, that's why I have a worm gear. It just seems like some folks might be stuck on ratcheting cranks so I thought that little tid bit might help them out with fine adjustments.


----------



## sean7559

use a turnbuckle with a ratchiting winch works great


----------



## Southpawarcher

After reading all these posts about draw boards I decided to make one for myself.I just used my press bench and mounted a winch and pipe.It works great.I used a 2 way ratchet style winch and rigged it with a turnbuckle.Thanks everybody for the helpful info on here!


----------



## 0nepin

ttt


----------



## upserman

[email protected] where did you get your weight scale??

Bob


----------



## sidekick101

how long are you all making these? like overall length from bar to front of winch?


----------



## jonj480

Mine is like 6 feet total. I made it that long so I'd have room to add a scale later on. The whole thing cost me like $40. This is the worm gear. It works great, I tried it last night. It takes a TON of cranks to get it back, but you can be very precise. It is a 2X6, 5/8" galvanized bolt and lockwashers, reg washers, etc, Hose section to cover post bolt and the worm drive winch. It is perfect for what I need.


----------



## 72Beetle

Here is one that I built:


































I used a electric winch allows me to stand over the cams as they rotate.


----------



## Turkeyflacx2

I got all of the stuff to make my own board like the gear winch,tube etc but have a question on where the yardstick goes. I thought it would go to the front edge (throat of grip) but I see pictures of it mounted what looks like 2" in front of it? Can someone explain to me where it goes and why it goes there? Thanks in advance!


----------



## gbear

Turkeyflacx2 said:


> I got all of the stuff to make my own board like the gear winch,tube etc but have a question on where the yardstick goes. I thought it would go to the front edge (throat of grip) but I see pictures of it mounted what looks like 2" in front of it? Can someone explain to me where it goes and why it goes there? Thanks in advance!


What you see in the pix is the stick set 1.75" from the throat of the grip, this gives you the draw length measured.


----------



## Turkeyflacx2

gbear said:


> What you see in the pix is the stick set 1.75" from the throat of the grip, this gives you the draw length measured.


Got it thanks. WIth the board I found that my cams are not in fact timed as I thought and my draw is 1/4" long. What a cool tool to tune bows!


----------



## Z-Rider

I need to build a draw board. Thanks for the great info.:thumbs_up


----------



## Bowman Dan

*Marked*

For future knowledge :wink:


----------



## Yamahog12

*Do it.*



Z-Rider said:


> I need to build a draw board. Thanks for the great info.:thumbs_up


I built one a couple weeks ago. If you want to really _know_ your bow, this is essential, IMO. I found that my cams were out of synch, and with advice from some good folks in AT, I was able to get everything where it should be. No wonder I had such a pain trying to tune it last year!


----------



## Big Joe Buck

I've been wondering about how to make one of these for a while and decided to try a search on AT tonight. Wow guys this has been really helpful!! Just told the wife that we as=re gonna be going to Lowe's after church tomorrow and I'll be building me one tomorrow.:wink:


----------



## Half Rack

I made me a board but as soon as tension is applied the top part of my bow starts to rock back then settles. I'm afraid to go any further back at the angle it's at now. Has anyone else had this problem?Any suggestions?


----------



## gbear

mine does it too and i've never given it a second thought becasue it's a natural reaction when you are not pulling through the center of the mass


----------



## 138104

Half Rack said:


> I made me a board but as soon as tension is applied the top part of my bow starts to rock back then settles. I'm afraid to go any further back at the angle it's at now. Has anyone else had this problem?Any suggestions?


At the beginning of this thread it was recommended to have the winch 3" inches higher than the post to keep it from rocking like that.


----------



## Gunner7800

Half Rack said:


> I made me a board but as soon as tension is applied the top part of my bow starts to rock back then settles. I'm afraid to go any further back at the angle it's at now. Has anyone else had this problem?Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perry24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> At the beginning of this thread it was recommended to have the winch 3" inches higher than the post to keep it from rocking like that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, in the picture if you were to move your winch to the left it will help with the tilt. I have my winch mounted where you do but angled facing more to what would be the left in the picture. Then about 15" in front of and 3" to the left of the winch, I put in an eye bolt and threaded the cable through the bolt. I draw my bow vetically and never have any tilt as it draws, it keeps the nock nice and level as I crank the winch.
> 
> You might also put a loop of 550 cord around your link and the bow string. That way if your d-loop were to fail the 550 cord would catch the string.
Click to expand...


----------



## MICCOX

bump


----------



## naildriver9

Great info i am learning alot guys.Keep it coming.:teeth:


----------



## abianca99

Just now subscribing. Good stuff. I will be building one soon.


----------



## BowStrapped

This is what Ive been looking for...thank u all


----------



## Highball

Do you guys find any issues with using the cable over a strap on your winch?


----------



## Yamahog12

Highball said:


> Do you guys find any issues with using the cable over a strap on your winch?


FYI, my winch came with a steel cable but I replaced it with rope. The cable is just too stiff to work with- at least for me.


----------



## RatherBArchery

Just a question:
What if you had two adjustable anchor points and had the riser sit against them, instead of just behind the grip???? If you were worried about the bow falling you could install straps or something. I need to build one for our club but want to see a proven design first.


----------



## Highball

RatherBArchery said:


> Just a question:
> What if you had two adjustable anchor points and had the riser sit against them, instead of just behind the grip???? If you were worried about the bow falling you could install straps or something. I need to build one for our club but want to see a proven design first.


You want it to be as much like holding the bow in hand as possible. That would take away from that and may not give you as accurate reading as the riser would not be flexing the way it would if you were holding it.


----------



## RatherBArchery

Makes sense but how much does the riser actually flex???


----------



## 138104

If you are looking for a good scale, you can get an American Weigh from Amazon.com for under $16. This is the same scale the Elite Archery draw board comes with.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...=16_0_0_0_1_0_0_1_1_1.40_322&fsc=-1&x=12&y=15


----------



## double o

My new draw board. 

I used an eyelet as my anchor point instead of mounting the whole winch three inches higher of the center of the pipe. I then used pipe insulation to simulate the grip.


----------



## nuts&bolts

double o said:


> My new draw board.
> 
> I used an eyelet as my anchor point instead of mounting the whole winch three inches higher of the center of the pipe. I then used pipe insulation to simulate the grip.


Eyelet is a GREAT idea.

Nicely done.


----------



## crazy4hunting

great idea. i plan on stealing it and putting it on the one i already have. thanks.


----------



## BowSitter

Great thread! I will be building one also, thanks for all the info!!


----------



## Liviu

ka30270 said:


> Great post...........I want to be able to find it again!!!!!!!


+1:thumb:


----------



## hjort jagare

For future reference.:thumbs_up


----------



## Deer Eliminator

I built this shooting / drawing machine about 2years ago.















Hutch


----------



## hjort jagare

Well done Hutch :thumbs_up Im not gonna tackle something that nice YET. I do have a question for the experts out there. As has been stated in earlier post the winch should pull from 3" up from the center to replicate the actual draw of how you draw a bow. OK I get that but the pipe that replaces my hand is round seems to me the bow would square itself automatically to whatever direction you pull it from. Is the three inches important only for getting the balance of the bow? In my mind it would have no effect on timing or draw length? Please correct me if Im wrong It happens.:wink: A lot :darkbeer:


----------



## Deer Eliminator

hjort jagare said:


> Well done Hutch :thumbs_up Im not gonna tackle something that nice YET. I do have a question for the experts out there. As has been stated in earlier post the winch should pull from 3" up from the center to replicate the actual draw of how you draw a bow. OK I get that but the pipe that replaces my hand is round seems to me the bow would square itself automatically to whatever direction you pull it from. Is the three inches important only for getting the balance of the bow? In my mind it would have no effect on timing or draw length? Please correct me if Im wrong It happens.:wink: A lot :darkbeer:


If you look at the pic above you will see that the pipe is approximately 3" down from center. For the shooting part of the machine is why I did this, the bow needs to be level with the machine. But I agree for the drawing machine I don't believe it makes a difference. As you stated when drawn it will have no effect. The bow will turn where ever the pivot pulls it.


Hutch


----------



## hjort jagare

Deer Eliminator said:


> If you look at the pic above you will see that the pipe is approximately 3" down from center. For the shooting part of the machine is why I did this, the bow needs to be level with the machine. But I agree for the drawing machine I don't believe it makes a difference. As you stated when drawn it will have no effect. The bow will turn where ever the pivot pulls it.
> 
> 
> Hutch


Thanks for the response I will just bolt my first attempt on straight for simplicity sake. :darkbeer:


----------



## rossguy27

so I got all my materials to start my building my drawboard. and I started it today.....i know I see that everyone mounts there winch about 3" above the centerline of the pipe / threaded rod, whatever you use. I bought a regular trailer winch from harbor freight, and the handle is on the wrong side of the winch to place it at 3" above the center line of my threaded rod. I want to build a horizontal (flat) drawboard) so my question is. 

Can I mount my threaded rod in the center of my board, mount my winch at the back end of the board in a way so that I can still crank the handle. Then just put an eyelet on the board about 3" above like double-o said above and be ok?

Also, at what measurement do I start my yard stick at to get the correct draw length measurement?


----------



## double o

Look at post 108 and 109:up::up:

Put the yard stick 1 1/2" in front tof the grip.


----------



## centershotrob

Why is 1 1/2" in front of the grip...why wouldnt you use the pivot point?


----------



## double o

Sorry the measurement is set at 1 3/4" in front of grip. Sorry Typo....


----------



## double o

centershotrob said:


> Why is 1 3/4" in front of the grip...why wouldnt you use the pivot point?


Because most bow companies measure draw length from the nocking point to the deepest part of the grip plus 1 3/4".


----------



## rossguy27

double o said:


> Sorry the measurement is set at 1 3/4" in front of grip. Sorry Typo....


so at the front of my threaded rod I put my yard stick at the 1 3/4" marking and fasten in to my board?


----------



## double o

Yeah imagine the "l" is where you measure 1 3/4 from and the "o" is the threded pipe or rod. > "lo" I hope my stupid diagram helps:laugh:


----------



## rossguy27

makes sense. Thank you.


----------



## BMA1974

Built a draw board yesterday to check for cam lean, but at full draw the bow wants to lean to the side. Will this cause torque? I tried shimming the grip to straighten the bow, which worked, but wondering if this will also cause torque?
nothing fancy


----------



## double o

I would say what ever size pipe you have for your bow holder. Go to Lowes and get some pipe insulaion foam that will slide right over that pipe. I hate the duct tape meathod.


----------



## hjort jagare

Im guessing the weight of the Quiver is causing the lean? Try taking it off and see if it helps. Good luck


----------



## BMA1974

Replaced the duct tape with pipe insulation and removed the quiver, it's a lot better than it was (still has a very slight lean), will this throw off your results when checking for cam lean?

Thanks for the help.


----------



## double o

BMA1974 said:


> Replaced the duct tape with pipe insulation and removed the quiver, it's a lot better than it was (still has a very slight lean), will this throw off your results when checking for cam lean?
> 
> Thanks for the help.


I wouldn't think so. I have my draw board flipped around from your set-up. Maybe flip everything aroun:noidea:


----------



## double o

BTW the cocking device by the pics it looks like the string or the cable is coming out counter clock-wise? You want the cable to be closest to the board when drawing it back. Does this make sense?

How about a close-up pic of the crank.


----------



## BMA1974

I bought the cheapest one lol... it only cranks one way, that's the way the manual shows. Maybe I should have spent the extra $5. lol...


----------



## Purka

A foam rubber sleeve ( fishing rod handle ) helps a bit. But it's no big deal if it leans, hold it up straight while you check the cam lean.


----------



## double o

BMA1974 said:


> I bought the cheapest one lol... it only cranks one way, that's the way the manual shows. Maybe I should have spent the extra $5. lol...


I would guess that would be a big part of it. Just my thought though.


----------



## Purka

BMA1974 said:


> I bought the cheapest one lol... it only cranks one way, that's the way the manual shows. Maybe I should have spent the extra $5. lol...


It only needs to crank one way. use a eye bolt or some other guide..


----------



## Hal T.

I need to build one! Thanks Guys for all the info. This will save me a lot of thiinking time. More time to day dream!


----------



## DeepFried

ttt


----------



## bucktrout

I built mine for under $27

$9.50 Scrape Board, pipe and base at Home Depot
$16.99 Winch and Cable http://www.amazon.com/1200-Cable-Winch-Truck-Trailer/dp/B000FPGZ6I
$0 Old screws and Bike handle bar tape

Synched timing on both bows last night. 

Thank you guy's for all the Tips


----------



## kejog

*shooter*

great post


----------



## zhunter62

Just marking the thread for later. thank N&B


----------



## Terry A

Some good ideas, going to make one.


----------



## NHLHVECTRIX

Tagged


----------



## hansom

NIce. I'll make do with a come-along for now


----------



## Marvin

harbor freight has the worm gear winch back on its site FYI


----------



## A'dilkahii

Awesome Ideas! Fits all budgets. Anyone have their draw boards that does 3rd axis adjustment? For Uphill / downhill? I am gathering parts for a draw board project with build in 3rd axis adjustment. Take It up another notch. Great Job Guys.


----------



## no1huntmaster

great thread, 
I think though from looking at the photos we need to add a second small 4" loop to the catch on the bow string in case the bow string loop breaks free. This would prevent a dry fire.. I use a piece of 3/16 rope knotted in a 4" loop if stretched and measured between your two fingers in a loop. Just to protect the bow and anyone else in the area.


----------



## Tskip

After looking on here I decided to build my own draw board.. Still need to get a scale but it seems to work well.. I found that have bad cam torque at full draw..If anyone has any input for improvement I would appreciate it.. Thanks


----------



## contenderelite

very nice


----------



## bl00dtrail

one of the best threads on AT.... thumbs up!


----------



## mfh432

Tagging for later.


----------



## Bearlee

NIce ... It gives me many ideas thanks for the hooter shooter / draw board combo with a bow press that is adjustable and portable!


----------



## Hank D Thoreau

Here is a link to the thread on my draw board. I discovered some interesting issues with scales and creep that I had to work through. I used both electonic and mechanical scales and found that an accurate mechanical scale worked best. Ulitmately, I ended up with good drawforce curves. I used a worm gear winch which is very accurate and controllable, though the cable itself is an issue as it shifts and settles. I use a draw length arrow to measure distance. I tried a ruler on the board but the data was better with the arrow. Also, I put legs on it so that I can stand it up and use it as a tillering tree.

Here is a picture and a link. There is a picture of my buzzer system that I used to alert me that I had reached the next measuring point for the draw force curve.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1538367


----------



## WCork

Subscribed


----------



## completepassthru

ttt


----------



## saltwell

tagging


----------



## NHLHVECTRIX

harbor freight worm gear winch is ordered and on the way.


----------



## Ricky 2feathers

Great thread!! I am building a bow press right now and will add this draw board to my list of builds!!:thumbs_up


----------



## fastgn

*Just finished my draw board*

Thanks to great ideas from the people here on AT I finished my draw board. I used 4' sections of 4"x4" a worm gear winch from harbor freight and for the rod i used 5/8" threaded rod that I used thick wall heat shrink where the bow sits and then electrical tape on the rest of the rod. I just recieved my h-110 scale but have not used it on the draw yet. I did pull my bow back with it and i saw about 61.82 which is right on for I set it my bow at 62.


----------



## MikeHarmon42

Very informative. Thanks for all info. Any way to save money building these tools ourselves instead of forking out the big bucks for some name brand equipment that does the same thing, leaves more money for those hunting trips. Much appreciated!


----------



## dmtindell

Let's see some more!


----------



## AK&HIboy

Tagged


----------



## bowman72

tagged


----------



## Don Schultz

steeld3_4 said:


> This may be a silly question but, how do you let it down slowly without it dry firing? Do you just hold the handle on the winch as it lets down? Has anyone ever had the handle slip and dry fire?


Really not a problem. Even if the winch handle got away from you, the mass and friction of the winch would take enough energy to preclude the damage of a dry string release.


----------



## drive4x4

this is one im working on, press at the bottom and draw board at the top


----------



## Rantz

*Winch won't Dry Fire + Made my drawboard electric*



Don Schultz said:


> Really not a problem. Even if the winch handle got away from you, the mass and friction of the winch would take enough energy to preclude the damage of a dry string release.


Also on the wormgear winch, the bow is not able to move the handle on the winch whether your hand is on it or not. I believe Don was referring to a regular ole winch if you let go of the handle and how it still would not let it just go off like a dry fire. Besides, put an arrow in the bow when you put it on a draw board and that will also help preserve your nocking points positions (so that they don't try to squeeze inward if you have the bow at full draw for a while). So if you're using a ratcheting winch and want to get precise, include a turnbuckle in the length of rope/cable; then the ratcheting action will keep it from coming unwound if you happen to take your hand off it. Or just use a wormgear winch.

I turned my harbor freight wormgear into an electric winch by spot welding the handle nut in place and then just putting a socket and my drill directly on that nut and spinning the handle. It allows me to draw/let down my bow in about 10-11 seconds versus the several minutes using the wormgear winch.









-Rantz


----------



## deerhuntinsunof

Marked forblater


----------



## drmajor

Hutch,
What is the reaction of the bow when shot from a draw board?
May I assume you have some way to hold the bow to the "grip"?

Also, how do you aim when shooting from a draw board?


----------



## OHIOARCHER36

tagged


----------



## Gunner7800

Rantz said:


> View attachment 1557803
> 
> -Rantz


Has anybody tried to fit one of these winches with a 2" or 3" strap rather than rope or cable? Just curious, was thinking I may like a strap that rolls up flat better than a rope that might stretch a little or a stiff cable that wants to twist or coil up.


----------



## Rantz

Gunner7800 said:


> Has anybody tried to fit one of these winches with a 2" or 3" strap rather than rope or cable? Just curious, was thinking I may like a strap that rolls up flat better than a rope that might stretch a little or a stiff cable that wants to twist or coil up.


If you could rig a way for the strap to anchor on the "spool" of the winch, then you could use a strap certainly. As is, this particular winch is meant to accept some form of a cord- whether it be a rope or the cable that it comes with. Stretching isn't really much of an issue. I have a very low cost rope on there from Harbor freight and I haven't noticed much stretching while I'm using it.

DrMajor, a drawboard and a shooting machine aren't necessarily the same thing. Most shooting machines can be used as drawboards, but most drawboards can't generally be used as shooting machines due to they usually aren't very mobile. Also, they are generally just designed to be able to pull the bow back and not necessarily make adjustments to "aim" with it or otherwise hold the bow safely if it were to be shot. There are plenty of threads about people who have made their own shooting machines. 

-Rantz


----------



## bowhunter819

I have mine rigged with a strap. I will take pics tomorrow!


----------



## Don Schultz

I've got a wide strap intended for a boat winch, but I think I'll save it for another project, and use a 3/4"-1" wide strap from an inexpensive ratchet strap for the draw board I will complete this week. The strength is adequate, and the draw board is used only occasionally, so wear and tear is not an issue. I think the flatness of the strap will keep the amount of draw per degree of crank rotation will be more consistent. Makes sense to me.


----------



## drive4x4




----------



## Don Schultz

Don Schultz said:


> I've got a wide strap intended for a boat winch, but I think I'll save it for another project, and use a 3/4"-1" wide strap from an inexpensive ratchet strap for the draw board I will complete this week. The strength is adequate, and the draw board is used only occasionally, so wear and tear is not an issue. I think the flatness of the strap will keep the amount of draw per degree of crank rotation will be more consistent. Makes sense to me.


The narrow strap worked out just fine on my now completed draw board.


----------



## Marooned

suscribed


----------



## BigBore56

My draw boards are wall mounted. Built from Uni-Strut, you can adjust the winch location with 2 bolts. Works RH or LH. I have tuned at least 200 bows using this method, and you can easily run the winch and look at the draw stops. Also have a digital scale attached to set poundage. 

These are so cheap to build...everyone should have one. Boat winch at Wal-Mart, 3/4" machine bolt w/heat shrink over it, and unistrut.


----------



## bmhern

I know this may sound dumb but how do you know you are at full draw when using a draw board. It seems it would be easy to crank the winch to far.


----------



## BigBore56

bmhern said:


> I know this may sound dumb but how do you know you are at full draw when using a draw board. It seems it would be easy to crank the winch to far.


You have to watch your cams roll over and stop cranking when the draw stop contacts the cables. If you have a scale attached, the poundage will decline until you are in the valley, then start climbing again (fast) if you keep cranking the winch.


----------



## bmhern

Thanks a lot. I just wasn't sure how to tell.


----------



## ruttnwapati

Thought I would throw my POS into the mix here. Simply bolted mine to the arms of my press. I like the ratchet style winch with turnbuckle.


----------



## Rantz

ruttnwapati said:


> Thought I would throw my POS into the mix here. Simply bolted mine to the arms of my press. I like the ratchet style winch with turnbuckle.


I like the dual purposes for things already in the "shop"!



bmhern said:


> Thanks a lot. I just wasn't sure how to tell.


Another way that you can do it too is to have someone mark on your arrow with a pencil or marker while you're at full draw right at the tip or edge of your rest or launcher blade and then when you draw it back just go until it lines up.


----------



## Twitko

In another thread, I was asked to provide more details about draw board i've built for my workbench. The original idea came from N&B photo (see first page). I even did it in this way, but found the whole board is quite long and thus very bulky for my limited space. So, I dismantle it, cut it into two pieces and use "reverse T shape". Now it occupies less space, thus more convenient to store .. Nice feature is you have cams at user-friendly level to inspect (height of my cams is about 50"). Even scale and draw length are in eyes level and OK to read.

The rope is routed over the top via two pulleys, then across back of board, then pulley again and through hole to winch. When designing your own board, just make sure there is enough space for your bow scale and all attachment points above D-loop before rope enters into pulley (at your bow's expected maximum draw length) . I made my board quite short - no problem now with digital scale I currently use, but it could be too short for another model. Nevertheless, there is a plenty space on the reverse side - you can put anything there - bigger scale, turnbuckle, etc …. 

The board is designed primarily to work in upright position as shown. But I believe (never did) you can lay down it for some purpose. Then it''d serve as original DB from page 1.

Some photos :


































...


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## Twitko

...

My Anarchy at full draw ... cams are easy accessible, scale and Dlength can be read easily ... 






















Hope you'd like it ... 

TW


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## lc12

VERY NICE!
Thanks for posting!!!!!
Now all you need to do is add some "caution" bars to set the bow on while you are hooking up the d-loop to your scale.


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## ronnielkier

Wow , I've plans to make my own press and a stand alone draw board , I have the DB all drawn up and this weekend I was gonna construct it !
Thanks to YOU now I'm throwing my plans away. LOL " I really like the vertical design " Very nice indeed !! I'll be building one very close to yours now...
What name brand scale is that ? Are you happy w/ the digital ? I was gonna use a spring scale .


I SHOT IT WITH MY P.S.E. HAMMER!


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## Sparrowhawk

Tagged for later.


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## ChiefLostArrow

This looks like very nice construction, but wont the adjustable shelves that your riser is resting on, interfere with how the riser finds its center at full draw? holding the riser in that way might hide some lean that would normally be there if the riser was allowed to settle on its own?



72Beetle said:


> Here is one that I built:
> 
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> I used a electric winch allows me to stand over the cams as they rotate.


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## Ron213

tagged


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## jljjdye

*My setup*

Thanks to all that posted. All ideas came from you guys


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## sludge

Here're a pic of one I put together.


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## aljburk

Sub!


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## Squirrel

BigBore56 said:


>


I built a vertical drawboard very similar to this and my Assassin leans like the bow in the picture, maybe worse. Is there a way to keep it straight or is better to just let it lean? It's gravity due to the bow being top heavy but I always worry I am going to hurt the bow. My recurves and Bear Element compound sit in it pretty straight.


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## Spikealot

Move your winch 3" to the right.


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## Squirrel

Spikealot said:


> Move your winch 3" to the right.


I already have 3" to the right of the post. Should I move it even farther? That one in that picture is not mine I just quoted it because my bow leans like that one.


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## Old Man Archer

Just thought I'd share my latest draw board that I built for my archery room. It has the capability to rotate a full 360 degree's but 90-180 is all that is needed. I made it with 1.5'' handrail stock and a worm gear .with the cable removed and a 1'' webbed strap installed in it's place. It works great but I'm working on an improved model.


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## Rollie83

Saved for later


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## bowtecha

Tagged..


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## vhram

Tagged for later


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## Deerhunter0721

Tagged nice thread need to build me one!


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## WildmanWilson

I notice some have the peg offset. How much off center is best?


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## Gunner7800

WildmanWilson said:


> I notice some have the peg offset. How much off center is best?


Measure the distance between your berger hole and throat of the grip.


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## 92safari

just another set up...


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## Geo78

I need to build one of these ASAP. Been procrastinating about it for a year now. 

Thanks for all the examples.


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## droppixel

Geo78 said:


> I need to build one of these ASAP. Been procrastinating about it for a year now.
> 
> Thanks for all the examples.


Right there with you ... been planning on it for months now and just never go to the store to get the parts and get it done


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## xibowhunter

Skimming thru this thread , (I'm planning on building a draw broad real soon ) am I correct, you have to offset mount the winch ? 3" or the distance between the throat of your grip and berger hole?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## nuts&bolts

xibowhunter said:


> Skimming thru this thread , (I'm planning on building a draw broad real soon ) am I correct, you have to offset mount the winch ? 3" or the distance between the throat of your grip and berger hole?
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Yup.














The PIPE is your bow hand, which should be SHOULDER height.

The bottom of the winch,
is where your nock lands on your face,
about 3/4-inches BELOW the corner of your mouth...

so,
since the CORNER of your mouth,
is ALWAYS higher than the top of your shoulder...

this is why,
the bottom of the winch frame
should be HIGHER than the centerline of the pipe.


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## xibowhunter

nuts&bolts said:


> Yup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The PIPE is your bow hand, which should be SHOULDER height.
> 
> The bottom of the winch,
> is where your nock lands on your face,
> about 3/4-inches BELOW the corner of your mouth...
> 
> so,
> since the CORNER of your mouth,
> is ALWAYS higher than the top of your shoulder...
> 
> this is why,
> the bottom of the winch frame
> should be HIGHER than the centerline of the pipe.


I'm going to make a horizontal one, due to limited space and storage, if I use a 2x6 and put the threaded pipe in the center,then the winch should be 3' off center, correct? 
Also can the 2x6 be shorter than 8' ? would 6 or 7.5 feet be ok ? My dl is 25". thank you


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## Old Man Archer

xibowhunter said:


> I'm going to make a horizontal one, due to limited space and storage, if I use a 2x6 and put the threaded pipe in the center,then the winch should be 3' off center, correct?
> Also can the 2x6 be shorter than 8' ? would 6 or 7.5 feet be ok ? My dl is 25". thank you


 4.5 - 5' is more than long enough , my draw length is 31'' and I have no problem drawing mine to the max even with a scale attached and mine is 5'.


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## big cypress

i was just looking for a way to check my draw weight with our luggage scale and thought a draw board would be ideal . it looks to complicated for me and i shoot fingers and it appears best for release shooters . i now put both feet against riser and pull scale with both hands while trying to read it , obviously while seated on floor . i just need something to anchor riser so i can pull scale although it would be nice to know how far i have pulled it in relation to draw length [ no , i'm not going to put an arrow in it as a reference ] . be nice to watch WHEELS roll over but draw weight is my main interest . . . .peace


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## aljburk

ttt


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## richl35

Subscribe

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4


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## arrow1969

Their is some awesome info here in this thread.


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## xibowhunter

I learned a very important draw board lesson today ,keep a good grip on the crank handle, I thought I set the release so I would have to crank it down but instead it was full release, I didn't have a tight grip on the handle and off it went. It scared the crap outta me ! Luckily nothing got damaged 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4


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## Old Man Archer

xibowhunter said:


> I learned a very important draw board lesson today ,keep a good grip on the crank handle, I thought I set the release so I would have to crank it down but instead it was full release, I didn't have a tight grip on the handle and off it went. It scared the crap outta me ! Luckily nothing got damaged
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4


 This is one of the reasons on why using a Worm Gear winch is a good idea. They may be a little slower to use but they are more precise and safer because there is no lock , they stop and stay where ever you stop cranking the handle. $25.00 at Harbor Freight.


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## ebroughton

Here is my attempt at a draw board. Thanks for all the good ideas. It is a 2x6 mounted to a 4x4 so that it sits up on its own. I can clamp it to my bench or throw it in the truck and take it with me. I can't wait to try it out.


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## elkbow69

OK, pretty soon I will be makin me a board/shooter with vertical and horizontal adjusment for shooting. 
Pics when in process.


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## ebroughton

ebroughton said:


> View attachment 1776213
> 
> 
> Here is my attempt at a draw board. Thanks for all the good ideas. It is a 2x6 mounted to a 4x4 so that it sits up on its own. I can clamp it to my bench or throw it in the truck and take it with me. I can't wait to try it out.


I used the draw board last night and it worked perfectly. My bow sat up straight without any horizontal or vertical tilt. Having the winch cable 3" above the grip is key. I checked the timing on my Defy after I got it back from my shop. They did an excellent job timing it. The cams lined up perfectly throughout the draw cycle. Now I have the tools needed to check it and keep it there.


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## dklic6

I''ve got mine almost done tonight. Need a couple more hardware parts, but I should be finished tomorrow. I'm limited on space in my office.


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## Spikealot

A hinge in the middle is scary.


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## BrownDog2

spikealot said:


> a hinge in the middle is scary.


yes it is!


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## XMAN

Glad im not the only one who thought the same. I saw all sorts of disasters when i saw it.


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## dklic6

Going to be block and braced on 3 sides. If it gets exciting when I try it I'll post pics of the aftermath.


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## rdneckhillbilly

dklic6 said:


> Going to be block and braced on 3 sides. If it gets exciting when I try it I'll post pics of the aftermath.


Subscribed.


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## deputy83

Great thread!


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## droppixel

Spikealot said:


> A hinge in the middle is scary.


if you plan to keep it that way, that hinge should be on the other side and I'd be running another steel plate or something on the side the hinge is now to act as an extra stop/brace.


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## boonecoon

subscribed, cant wait to start on mine this weekend


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## Skel37

Here's mine....just made it today out of an old winch I had and a piece of unistut. I'm going to add a turnbuckle for the final adjustment and a safety catch in case the D-loop lets go....but it's simple and it works great.


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## pacnate

Subscribed. Anybody got a link to the winch everyone is using? I have an old boat winch, but would like a worm gear I think.


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## Old Man Archer

pacnate said:


> Subscribed. Anybody got a link to the winch everyone is using? I have an old boat winch, but would like a worm gear I think.


You can buy a worm gear winch at Harbor Freight for $26.00.


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## pacnate

Got a link? I can't seem to find the one for $26. For some reason I keep getting expensive ones. Lol.


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## Rantz

pacnate said:


> Got a link? I can't seem to find the one for $26. For some reason I keep getting expensive ones. Lol.


http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-capacity-geared-winch-5798.html

This is the exact one I have. I am using polyester braided rope (from harbor freight) and welded the nut on for the handle so I can just put my drill on it.


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## pacnate

Rantz said:


> http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-capacity-geared-winch-5798.html
> 
> This is the exact one I have. I am using polyester braided rope (from harbor freight) and welded the nut on for the handle so I can just put my drill on it.


I want to do the same thing. Thanks for the link.


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## Rantz

Rantz said:


> Update on my drawboard design. Thank you again to the other people who laid out the plans for how to take on a DIY idea such as making your own drawboard.
> 
> Recently, I had the idea to make it easier to draw and let down my bow without my arm wanting to fall off from all of the cranking of the wormgear winch. Well I decided to spot weld the nut to the shaft and put my drill on the nut (with a socket being used with a hex drill socket adapter that I got for $3 from harbor freight). I went ahead and removed part of the handle since I don't really need it. Now I can draw and let down my bow in 10-11 seconds rather than it taking a few minutes and my arm wanting to pack up its things and go.
> 
> It makes it faster and easier to draw it in order to accurately check whatever I want to with the draw board.
> 
> View attachment 1557788


More pictures of mine can be found in a thread I started a while back: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1889986
I eventually cut off the handle entirely and just put my drill on the welded nut.


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## eskimoohunt

I will be building this draw board very soon


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## eskimoohunt

double o said:


> My new draw board.
> 
> I used an eyelet as my anchor point instead of mounting the whole winch three inches higher of the center of the pipe. I then used pipe insulation to simulate the grip.


Great idea for draw board


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## bluestreaker

Marked for my new project!


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## 2BMX

My next project. Thanks guys..


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## eskimoohunt

eskimoohunt said:


> Great idea for draw board


Can someone send a link to a good wench to use for this? And went you start letting the string down is there one that is fool proof so the handle just unwinds wildly??


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## rdneckhillbilly

eskimoohunt said:


> Can someone send a link to a good *wench* to use for this? And went you start letting the string down is there one that is fool proof so the handle just unwinds wildly??


Any wench will do. 
Head down to your local bar and pick one up. 
Careful of std's though.


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## eskimoohunt

rdneckhillbilly said:


> Any wench will do.
> Head down to your local bar and pick one up.
> Careful of std's though.


LOL. Ok Winch


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## eskimoohunt

Rantz said:


> http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-capacity-geared-winch-5798.html
> 
> This is the exact one I have. I am using polyester braided rope (from harbor freight) and welded the nut on for the handle so I can just put my drill on it.


Found the winch


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## mikehoyme

I built this one this afternoon. Thanks for all the ideas in this thread!


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## Iowa shooter

Tagged


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## Roo223

Tag


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## Ibohunt31

Tagged


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## chacam

I don't understand something. If a cam fits snugly on the axle, why would it lean? Even if one leg of the yoke is shorter than the other I would think there would be no lean unless there was a lot of wear on the cam/axle. If there is wear, why not just replace the worn parts?


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## 92safari

If not tuned correctly it pulls more on one side of the limbs than the other in addition to side torque of the slide.


chacam said:


> I don't understand something. If a cam fits snugly on the axle, why would it lean? Even if one leg of the yoke is shorter than the other I would think there would be no lean unless there was a lot of wear on the cam/axle. If there is wear, why not just replace the worn parts?


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## xless

tagged


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## TheDuke4

Tagged


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## redbone311

Marked for future use


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## BlueH2O

Tagged


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## buckhunter08

i got everything to put my board together last night. i got a piece of whitewood 12" wide and 6' long but only 1" wide to keep the weight down.plan on screwing it to my wall. i got fender washers for all the bolts for the pipe and winch. is the 1" thick piece of wood thick enough?


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## Arrowhunter

Tagged


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## xibowhunter

buckhunter08, I think a 1" piece would be a little thin you should get a 2" x 8" then cut it to the desired length. I cut mine to 5' and it works like a charm


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## buckhunter08

So I went ahead and returned the 1" board and got a 2x8. Cut it down to 6'. Worked we'll.


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## Paintman75

Tagged


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## Reddy

Tagged


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## BULLETBUSINESS

I too have built a draw board from the many examples on this site and I absurdly love it. My issue comes with measuring g draw length on it. I understand adding the 1 1/2 inches from the front of the pipe where the bow grip rests but is that accurate enough? How do I avoid overdrawing the bow-no stops on my hoyt cam? Help....


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## BULLETBUSINESS

I too have built a draw board from the many examples on this site and I absurdly love it. My issue comes with measuring g draw length on it. I understand adding the 1 1/2 inches from the front of the pipe where the bow grip rests but is that accurate enough? How do I avoid overdrawing the bow-no stops on my hoyt cam? Help....


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## droppixel

BULLETBUSINESS said:


> I too have built a draw board from the many examples on this site and I absurdly love it. My issue comes with measuring g draw length on it. I understand adding the 1 1/2 inches from the front of the pipe where the bow grip rests but is that accurate enough? How do I avoid overdrawing the bow-no stops on my hoyt cam? Help....


Not familiar with them, but do the models have a channel that the string is to come to rest in?


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## Don Schultz

You need somebody to show you what serves as a stop for your cams.


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## hagan525

Saving for later


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## mtimms

What kind of screws did u guys use?


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## bwhntr7973

Tagged for building purposes.


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## War_Material

Here is mine! I just need a scale


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## stickman6

Built mine yesterday. Thanks so much for all the ideas. Legs are easy to remove for transport or horizontal use.


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## topjimmy

Just finished mine last night.  I used the HF worm screw crank, and a 5ft piece of birch 3/4 in plywood that I had laying around. That worm drive lets you stop where ever you want, and make small adjustments,but my god your arm takes a beating... I might just have to rig it up to use my drill too.


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## pegleg1az

I would rather the bow rest be in the center of the unistut and the winch raised higher. I do not trust that thin drop support that it would not twist and your bow go flying off...




Skel37 said:


> Here's mine....just made it today out of an old winch I had and a piece of unistut. I'm going to add a turnbuckle for the final adjustment and a safety catch in case the D-loop lets go....but it's simple and it works great.
> View attachment 1787931
> 
> View attachment 1787932
> 
> View attachment 1787934


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## flyfisher151

ttt


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## Pride Hunter

Tagged


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## soybean81

save


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## TheZephyr

Tag


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## fleetmarine

Tag.


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## Shink26

Save


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## usmc1812

save


----------



## MATP38/4500




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## fleetmarine

Tagged.


----------



## cowboyup_again

Twitko said:


> In another thread, I was asked to provide more details about draw board i've built for my workbench. The original idea came from N&B photo (see first page). I even did it in this way, but found the whole board is quite long and thus very bulky for my limited space. So, I dismantle it, cut it into two pieces and use "reverse T shape". Now it occupies less space, thus more convenient to store .. Nice feature is you have cams at user-friendly level to inspect (height of my cams is about 50"). Even scale and draw length are in eyes level and OK to read.
> 
> The rope is routed over the top via two pulleys, then across back of board, then pulley again and through hole to winch. When designing your own board, just make sure there is enough space for your bow scale and all attachment points above D-loop before rope enters into pulley (at your bow's expected maximum draw length) . I made my board quite short - no problem now with digital scale I currently use, but it could be too short for another model. Nevertheless, there is a plenty space on the reverse side - you can put anything there - bigger scale, turnbuckle, etc ….
> 
> The board is designed primarily to work in upright position as shown. But I believe (never did) you can lay down it for some purpose. Then it''d serve as original DB from page 1.
> 
> Some photos :
> 
> View attachment 1640046
> View attachment 1640047
> View attachment 1640048
> 
> View attachment 1640049
> View attachment 1640050
> 
> 
> ...


Building mine tonight like this. Anyone had problems with this design?


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## skullerud

MatP38, 
Any chance you'll show us the details on the draw board addon for your press?


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## MATP38/4500

I built it into the press as I was building the press, as far as details, the bow end is 3/4 axel shaft that slides inside a piece of pipe (all you can see is the hole) with a stop rod that threads into the side to lock it in , the draw side is pieces of the nestable square tube that the press is built from and it can be pinned in 3 different positions on (windage) and the winch mount is also adjustable (elevation) but I have only adjusted it once when I brought it home I had to build it this way because I was building it at work and had to make it come apart in pieces so I could get it out lol any more question or if you want pics just tell me what you would like to see thanks


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## udelhofe

I'm in the process of building a draw board with the draw length measurements on it. Where do I start the measurement's from? The front of the grip of the bow? The back? Etc? Thanks for any help.


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## helim83

After reading this thread repeatedly over the last couple of weeks, I pulled the trigger on my own draw board. This is what I ended up with. Still need the rubber hose, and will add a scale when I can find one on the cheap. Pretty sure I'm gonna need at least one eyebolt. But this is what I got. ...let me know what y'all think. And thank you to N&B for a fantastic post that exploded!


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## helim83

a little closer look at it.


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## sambo73

Tagging


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## imcabby

+++


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## Ches

MATP38/4500 said:


>


This has got to be the very best one I have seen todate. Very nice work and thought out.
Ches.


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## SheaXPO

Tagged


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## Dhninja




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## Chukarhunter

There is no need to offset the peg. You will save yourself time and material if you just center the winch with the post.


WildmanWilson said:


> I notice some have the peg offset. How much off center is best?


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## steve101610

Tagged


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## mdewitt71

good thread...... I just got back from Harbor Frieght with a Worm Winch. 
Will be making a verticle draw board aross the front of my workbench in the next few weeks.


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## Don_Swazy

Couple questions.

1. How long does it take to draw a bow with the Harbor Freight worm winch? 
-Seems like some people are saying it takes a lot of revolutions to get a bow back. 
-Are we talking 30 seconds? 2 minutes plus?

2. Is there any reason to use a turn buckle WITH a worm winch for a micro adjustment? 

Thanks!


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## mdewitt71

harbor freight draw board complete.









I wanted it separate from my press, that way I do not have to waste time going from the draw board to the press. 
If I was using the hand crank, it takes a bit to get the bow to full draw but, I use a battery powered ratchet and its only a couple of seconds. 
Once you get close, a couple of spins with the bare hand will get you set to the perfect spot.
Since the pic was taken, I have replaced the rope with a strap... I like it much better.


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## wilienayler

mdewitt71...Could you show us the "battery powered ratchet' and how your attaching to the winch?

Thanks


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## smokin x's

Subbed for reference. Not sure if I wanna build just a draw board with scale or a shooting machine for broadhead tests and tuning.


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## shinobi3

Tag


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## mdewitt71

wilienayler said:


> mdewitt71...Could you show us the "battery powered ratchet' and how your attaching to the winch?
> 
> Thanks


It's in the picture... next to my Sonic brass cleaner. The blue Mikita battery powered ratchet.


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## hoytlifer

Tag


----------



## Rantz

wilienayler said:


> mdewitt71...Could you show us the "battery powered ratchet' and how your attaching to the winch?
> 
> Thanks


You can just get a socket adapter for your drill. Then put your drill on the nut that holds the handle on the wormgear. I even cut the handle off and just micro turn the nut by hand to fine tune. To make sure the nut doesn't try to come on or off, you could either jb weld it or just literally tack weld it like I did. I also did this for my winch that stores my ladder on the ceiling of my garage. Both of them are harbor freight worm gear winches Takes only seconds to draw or let down a bow or to lift or let down the ladder.


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## 70oldsracer

When I built my press I welded the fingers to separate pieces of steel tubing so I can remove them from the press so they didn't get banged up, if I needed to travel with it. I built a draw board set up that can just be switched out from the fingers set up. I use the press to draw the bow instead of a winch.


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## Bowtie diamond

Tag


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## outdrsman11

Have a few more steps to go on mine and then I'll post some pictures. 
Quick questions: 
Does it matter which direction your winch faces? I see some with the bar across the front and some with it on the backside. All that really effects is the direction in which you turn the crank, right? 
Does it matter which side of the reel the rope/cable is drawing from? The top or the bottom?
Thanks, have been piecing mine together for a few weeks. Can't wait!


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## arrowflinger73

If you go with the worm winch take the cable off and put on a nylon cargo strap works much easier


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## outdrsman11

Well, I finally got my drawboard done. What an invaluable tool to have! I was having trouble getting my new Nitrum tuned and had I not had the drawboard (and lots of good advice from helpful folks on here), I'd still be pulling my hair out. 

I already had the press stand built and after reading through this thread, I took a scrap piece of 2x6 and set it on one of the upper cross supports and it's like it was meant to be. It fit perfectly. So after a couple weeks of getting everything I needed to build it, I got her done! 

I made some modifications to the existing stand. I chopped the upright 4x4s down about 6 inches and replaced the 2x4's that were on there with these 4x4's and then added the casters. Makes it nice to be able to move it around if it's in the way or I don't have enough room or something (its not exactly a small piece of equipment) 

I really like having it right there on the back of the press so I can go back and forth between them very easily. 

I went with a Dutton-Lainson 1600 pound worm gear winch because that's what they sell at my in laws hardware store. Definitely more pricey than HF one but I feel confident using it. 

I decided not to use the scale with the drawboard as I felt I wasn't getting consistent readings, so it is on a hook on the wall. 

I also am going to try and modify the winch a little more. I'd like to move it to the 4x4 closest to the bow and then run a couple pulleys so the eye-bolt stays where it's at but I can be right there with the bow instead of standing off to the side. Kind of like the vertical draw board I have seen on this thread. 

Tons of great information on here, thanks to everyone who has posted and given tips. Here she is!


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## outdrsman11

One question I still have: Does anyone else have trouble with the QAD Thumb Wheel coming into contact with the pipe? I have to hold it up just a little until it has enough tension so that the thumb wheel doesn't get caught up.


----------



## Don Schultz

outdrsman11 said:


> ...I also am going to try and modify the winch a little more. I'd like to move it to the 4x4 closest to the bow and then run a couple pulleys so the eye-bolt stays where it's at but I can be right there with the bow...


Interesting. I've been thinking to move my winch up near the bow also.


----------



## jstoll

Tag


----------



## jameson305

Tag


----------



## AngryBird

I'm looking for a way to quickly attach/detach mine from the front of my work bench. I have a standard 2x6/pipe/boat-winch draw board.


----------



## TheScOuT

AngryBird said:


> I'm looking for a way to quickly attach/detach mine from the front of my work bench. I have a standard 2x6/pipe/boat-winch draw board.


I'd just do a couple bolts with some wing nuts. All you need is one on each end, sinch them down nice and snug...it won't go anywhere. When it's not mounted to the bench, pop me out and throw them into a drawer.


I see a few people talking about eye bolts and the type of strap/rope/cable to use. Here is what I did. I mounted the pipe on the lower side knowing the winch needed to be higher. I held the bow up on the pipe so it was level then measued from the top of the board to the D loop. That gave me a good solid middle of my winch point. I then mounted the winch and used some 800 pound rope with a pulley I got at Home Depot. I used 2 small eye bolts to make sure everything was straight while the rope was going in and out and to keep the rope pulling straight back to keep the bow level.


----------



## roosclan

Twitko said:


> In another thread, I was asked to provide more details about draw board i've built for my workbench. The original idea came from N&B photo (see first page). I even did it in this way, but found the whole board is quite long and thus very bulky for my limited space. So, I dismantle it, cut it into two pieces and use "reverse T shape". Now it occupies less space, thus more convenient to store .. Nice feature is you have cams at user-friendly level to inspect (height of my cams is about 50"). Even scale and draw length are in eyes level and OK to read.
> 
> The rope is routed over the top via two pulleys, then across back of board, then pulley again and through hole to winch. When designing your own board, just make sure there is enough space for your bow scale and all attachment points above D-loop before rope enters into pulley (at your bow's expected maximum draw length) . I made my board quite short - no problem now with digital scale I currently use, but it could be too short for another model. Nevertheless, there is a plenty space on the reverse side - you can put anything there - bigger scale, turnbuckle, etc ….
> 
> The board is designed primarily to work in upright position as shown. But I believe (never did) you can lay down it for some purpose. Then it''d serve as original DB from page 1.
> 
> Some photos :
> 
> View attachment 1640046
> View attachment 1640047
> View attachment 1640048
> 
> View attachment 1640049
> View attachment 1640050
> 
> 
> ...


This is the one I want to build, but I'm having a heck of a time finding the right pulleys. TrueValue and Sutherland's don't have them, and there is no Home Depot or Lowe's anywhere close.


----------



## outdrsman11

roosclan said:


> This is the one I want to build, but I'm having a heck of a time finding the right pulleys. TrueValue and Sutherland's don't have them, and there is no Home Depot or Lowe's anywhere close.


Try Bluestem? I live in Emporia as well and got everything (minus lumber) for mine there. Haven't searched for pulleys yet


----------



## okbow68

I'm bringing this back up again because I have been re-reading this thread and still don't get the offset of the winch. I mean isn't the bow free to rotate slightly around the pipe in the throat of the grip? Someone tell me why this makes any difference. I just don't see it as long as it's not pulled from some extreme angle.


----------



## KRW

okbow68 said:


> I'm bringing this back up again because I have been re-reading this thread and still don't get the offset of the winch. I mean isn't the bow free to rotate slightly around the pipe in the throat of the grip? Someone tell me why this makes any difference. I just don't see it as long as it's not pulled from some extreme angle.


because your d loop and the throat of your grip are not on the same line


----------



## okbow68

KRW said:


> because your d loop and the throat of your grip are not on the same line


Yes I agree with that. However the pivot points are the same. If the grip is free to rotate on the peg and I believe it is on most of these and you raise the winch 6" it will equal itself out and the top limb will rotate forward. Likewise with the winch 6" lower than the throat of the grip when the d loop is pulled the bow would rotate with the lower limb forward. As long as the bow can pivot at the grip and the hook in the d loop can move freely I don't see the difference. I'm not talking pulling from extreme angles either. Let say the width of a 2x12 that some folks use to build their boards. Maybe it's too technical for me.


----------



## SOLOWJV

The bow will pivot as you described if you do not offset the winch, but I prefer having the bow straight up and down when it is a full draw on the drawboard. I prefer the winch to be mounted slightly higher than the grip post. From my experience this helps keep the bow perpendicular and is similar to an actual shooter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## okbow68

I see what you're saying

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----------



## drturi

Gunner7800 said:


> Any suggestions for an inexpensive scale to check draw weight and holding weight?


Bow hunter superstore has one on sale for $19.95


----------



## lwhitlow7

Good idea having a backup for the D-loop with paracord.


----------



## KRW

drturi said:


> Bow hunter superstore has one on sale for $19.95


Chinese ones on eBay for 10 bucks , same as the 50 dollar ones from Lancaster


----------



## WyoBowhunter21

Finished mine up tonight. I tried a test run and it looked good.


----------



## okbow68

Nice work!

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----------



## grousegrove

WyoBowhunter21 said:


> Finished mine up tonight. I tried a test run and it looked good.


Great bench, and I appreciate it doing double duty for your tying. I have the same Peak vise. You're very neat and organized though, my tying bench usually looks more like a chicken coop exploded. 




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## AlphaburnerEBR

Question.
What do you guys add to stop your bow from tilting?
My bow whats to tilt to the right.


----------



## KRW

AlphaburnerEBR said:


> Question.
> What do you guys add to stop your bow from tilting?
> My bow whats to tilt to the right.


Might need a bigger pipe holding the bow handle? Or possibly reposition winch


----------



## Outsider

AlphaburnerEBR said:


> Question.
> What do you guys add to stop your bow from tilting?
> My bow whats to tilt to the right.


Just use some kind of weight on the bottom of the bow. I have a brass weight I made and I just hang it on the bottom of bow.


----------



## non-typical

I figured it was time for a draw board. I thought about buying the kit Outsider sells but then remembered I had bought a worm gear winch a yr ago just for this project. Having a Apple bow press stand made it easy. A 1"x 8" pipe bolted to a L bracket I bent bolted to one side, and another bracket I made for the winch on the other. Instead of cable for the winch, I used one side of a ratchet strap.While it's not as neat and compact as Outsiders, it does the job.


----------



## WyoBowhunter21

grousegrove said:


> Great bench, and I appreciate it doing double duty for your tying. I have the same Peak vise. You're very neat and organized though, my tying bench usually looks more like a chicken coop exploded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks!! It's a good vice. I figured I would make the wife happy and only make one bench. I have the rest of the room filled with hunting stuff. The bench doesn't always look that neat. Usually it looks as you described. I haven't tied in a little while. I need to get back at it.


----------



## Wack'EM

Tagged


----------



## Outsider

non-typical said:


> I figured it was time for a draw board. I thought about buying the kit Outsider sells but then remembered I had bought a worm gear winch a yr ago just for this project. Having a Apple bow press stand made it easy. A 1"x 8" pipe bolted to a L bracket I bent bolted to one side, and another bracket I made for the winch on the other. Instead of cable for the winch, I used one side of a ratchet strap.While it's not as neat and compact as Outsiders, it does the job.
> View attachment 3418202
> View attachment 3418218
> View attachment 3418226


It works  That's all it matters  I still have my original boat winch draw board


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## The Arrow Guru

*I made a draw board that works really well*

I will outline the steps here and then I will tell you what I would do different.

First I started with a portable saw horse and worm gear boat wench from Harbor freight. I used a 2x6 and mounted it on top of the saw horse. I measured carefully to make sure the holes would line up.


----------



## The Arrow Guru

*Post #2*

I mounted the 2x6 on top of the saw horse and then added a small piece of 2x6 in order to offset the wench.


----------



## The Arrow Guru

*post #3*

I then took some measurements and made some pencil marks. I found the center of the board and marked a line the length of the board. I then marked a line 1.5" to either side of the center line. I came off the end of the board 1" and marked a line across the board and then another one 1.75" from that.

I did this in order to off set the post in order for the wench to be in line with the center of the bow which is normally about 1.5" above the pivot point of the grip, at least close enough. I marked the two lines across the board in order to mount the ruler and the post. The ruler should be offset 1.75" from he edge of the post where the grip will sit. AMO standard draw length is measured 1.75" from the "throat" of the grip.

I used a piece of 1/2 galvanized pipe and a termination flange. Then I bought a piece of 3/4 heavy duty hose and drove it down over the pipe. (this fits tight and isn't very easy but can be done)


----------



## The Arrow Guru

*Post #4*

I then mounted my wench on the other end of the board. I also mounted a pulley 1.5" opposite the side I mounted the post. I used a split ring and then a caribeener. I hook the split ring to the loop on the string and then snap the caribeener around the string for a safety. I replaced the cable with rope and it is easier to deal with.


----------



## The Arrow Guru

Now for a few things I would have done differently than what is pictured.

1st after I started tuning bows with it I realized I offset the post to the wrong side of the center line. 

2nd, I would have started with a 48" ruler and made the whole thing longer. That way I could have room between the pully and the hook to put a poundage scale.

3rd, I also feel now that the pully needs to go on the center line with the post being offset.

4th, I have found a much easier wench to use. It is made by Dutton-Lainson and can be purchased directly from them for about $40. It is a (DL 600 A)

Lastly I would mount the ruler in the middle and just cut the front 2 or 3" off. I have since found a 2" wide metal ruler and would definitely use it. 

I hope this helps someone.


----------



## legacy_hunter02

Gonna be making one of these soon 

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----------



## Waldorf

I made my first draw board. I am confused. when I draw my PSE Xpression in arms....weight is #55.

In draw board draw weight is #50...why????




Springs helps to draw back bow when its aready on wall.


----------



## roosclan

Waldorf said:


> I made my first draw board. I am confused. when I draw my PSE Xpression in arms....weight is #55.
> 
> In draw board draw weight is #50...why????


Get rid of that spring.



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## Waldorf

Already did.


----------



## redwings423

Tag for good info


----------



## Hang 'em High

Tagged


----------



## Oncorhynchus

Tagged


----------



## NH BOW HUNTER

Tagged 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## Rapt_up

Waldorf said:


> I made my first draw board. I am confused. when I draw my PSE Xpression in arms....weight is #55.
> 
> In draw board draw weight is #50...why????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The force gauge has to be aligned perfectly to measure force accurately, having it angled as shown will make the results incorrect.


----------



## BrettMorgan

I'm going to build one close to this but also include a third axis rotation on the press for checking site etc  nice job by the way mate two thumbs up


----------



## treetoptimmy

Built one with the help of this thread. Thanks everyone!









Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


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## Heritagehd

following


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## TAZMAN

Awesome designs.


----------



## TAZMAN

Awesome designs.


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## TAZMAN

Awesome designs


----------



## OspreyZB

Tagged


----------



## stanmc55

Here is another variation. I have a load cell indicator hooked up to a s-cell for great weight measurements.




















REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


----------



## primal-bow

stanmc55 said:


> Here is another variation. I have a load cell indicator hooked up to a s-cell for great weight measurements.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


what's an s-cell (searches show cell phone)


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## stanmc55

Go to eBay and search s cell indicator and you will see one....... they are also called load cell indicator....


REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


----------



## primal-bow

stanmc55 said:


> Go to eBay and search s cell indicator and you will see one....... they are also called load cell indicator....
> 
> 
> REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


do you have any brand referents?


----------



## stanmc55

No sir, this is the first and only setup I have had. And there are no local suppliers to go to for comparisons.

This setup is great for tuning purposes and graphing draw curves. It is amazing what you can learn about a bow or doing a comparison of bows. And I feel that I am more accurate in my knowledge of the bows than I ever was using the small scales that might have a large +or - in their readings.


REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


----------



## Outsider

primal-bow said:


> do you have any brand referents?


It's a load cell.


----------



## nuts&bolts

primal-bow said:


> do you have any brand referents?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-...eighting-Sensor-50kg-With-Cable-/151323216669
50 kb S beam load cell. (110 lbs capacity).

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=digital+display+load+cell&_sop=15
All ranges of prices for digital display, load cell.

Optima Digital Display for load cell.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIGITAL-SCA...112304?hash=item4642201ff0:g:9XUAAOSwVL1WDs-h

$140.00


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## stanmc55

If you buy the Optima set off of eBay you get the load cell and indicator with all the cables hookups ready to go. I bought the 150 lb setup. I was told by the supplier that I should stay as close to the max weight that I would be using to be as.accurate as the unit can be. They sell a 
100 lb unit too.....but he said the accuracy difference between the two would not be enough to measure. Just don't buy a 5000 lb unit to do a 70 lb bow...


REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


----------



## Jollyarcher

I noticed some pictures showed an offset peg placement while others did not.

Is there a benefit to having the winch placed offset from the grip / riser peg?


----------



## stanmc55

Jollyarcher said:


> I noticed some pictures showed an offset peg placement while others did not.
> 
> Is there a benefit to having the winch placed offset from the grip / riser peg?


Yes, it keeps the bow straight with the winch....


REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


----------



## escorza88

What are the benefits of using a vertical draw board over a horizontal type drawbiard?


----------



## 92safari

escorza88 said:


> What are the benefits of using a vertical draw board over a horizontal type drawbiard?


Pretty much depends on if its incorporated in a press or not.. Otherwise a matter of preference.. If on a press; you can draw while in the press..


----------



## poetic

Just ordered a worn gear winch. What type of rope do you guys use to replace the metal rope on the winch?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## 92safari

A strap works best.. Always centers itself..


----------



## stanmc55

92safari said:


> A strap works best.. Always centers itself..


Good advice....


REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


----------



## poetic

92safari said:


> A strap works best.. Always centers itself..


I'm thinking of going cord. That way I can use an eyebolt. Also is there a place where I can just buy a foot of thread pipe? I looked online at menards, home depot, ect and all it says is that I have to buy a 10 foot piece of pipe...


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## stanmc55

poetic said:


> I'm thinking of going cord. That way I can use an eyebolt. Also is there a place where I can just buy a foot of thread pipe? I looked online at menards, home depot, ect and all it says is that I have to buy a 10 foot piece of pipe...


As the man said above you, a strap works best. I had to learn that the hard way, I guess you will too......

A lot of winches come with the strap.


REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


----------



## poetic

stanmc55 said:


> As the man said above you, a strap works best. I had to learn that the hard way, I guess you will too......
> 
> A lot of winches come with the strap.
> 
> 
> REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


Don't wanna learn the hard way.... haha.

How about the pipe? Would the stores have them if I walked in? And not look so much online? I don't need 10 feet of rod. Gigitty gooooo



Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## stanmc55

poetic said:


> Don't wanna learn the hard way.... haha.
> 
> How about the pipe? Would the stores have them if I walked in? And not look so much online? I don't need 10 feet of rod. Gigitty gooooo
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


A plumbing supply store should have what you are looking for. Be sure and pad the pipe with something. I used a lot of electrical tape and the put shrink tubing outside of that. It works great at protecting your bows grip area.


REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


----------



## BowBenderZ

poetic said:


> Don't wanna learn the hard way.... haha.
> 
> How about the pipe? Would the stores have them if I walked in? And not look so much online? I don't need 10 feet of rod. Gigitty gooooo
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


What you want is called a pipe nipple. It's a short section, threaded on both ends. They usually stock them in 2" increments from 2" up through 12 or 16" at any reasonably stocked hardware.


----------



## Just One

Serious question. What is the purpose of a draw board?
Thanks 

Sent from my LG-E980 using Tapatalk


----------



## stanmc55

Cam synchronizing , setting drawstops, draw curve analyses., etc.....


REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


----------



## Just One

Thanks 

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----------



## poetic

Is there a size strap that everyone is using to replace the metal rope? 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## stanmc55

poetic said:


> Is there a size strap that everyone is using to replace the metal rope?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Mine is almost the width of the spool. That keeps it tracking straight....


REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


----------



## poetic

stanmc55 said:


> Mine is almost the width of the spool. That keeps it tracking straight....
> 
> 
> REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


Yes in deed, same was i was thinking. But I was looking at the picture and seems like the gear might get in the way a bit.










Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## mgwelder

poetic said:


> Yes in deed, same was i was thinking. But I was looking at the picture and seems like the gear might get in the way a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Here is a pic of mine. Plenty of room. My strap is 1 1/2 wide. I like this winch because it elimenates a turnbuckle for micro adjustments. It can be slower at winding because of the wormgear, but I overcome this by using a cordless drill and socket on the handle nut to get close to full draw, then use the handle to fine tune draw.









Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## poetic

mgwelder said:


> Here is a pic of mine. Plenty of room. My strap is 1 1/2 wide. I like this winch because it elimenates a turnbuckle for micro adjustments. It can be slower at winding because of the wormgear, but I overcome this by using a cordless drill and socket on the handle nut to get close to full draw, then use the handle to fine tune draw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


I seen somewhere in this thread about spot welding the nut, so it don't unscrew. Is that what you had to do? Also how did you secure the strap to the roller? I was thinking super glue and duct tape. Don't think I'd unravel it all the way anyway. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## stanmc55

I would be that you could get by with the long side of a 1" wide rachet strap. 


REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


----------



## mgwelder

The shaft had a hole in it so I tapped it screwd a plate to it with the strap under it. I didnt weld the nut but I got a second nut and tightened them against one another.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## sanman357

Tagged


----------



## chawk541

I really appreciate this!


----------



## Mawgie33

Here's mine. I made a thread about a month ago that has build details. The winch was $25, from Harbor Freight. Works well.


----------



## stanmc55

Ive posted this before, but don’t mind posting it again for anyone wanting to build one. This DB slips into a socket under the lip of the table and is easily removable to save space in smaller work areas.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Razorbak

save


----------



## Jamin92

Awesome thread. Thanks for all the good info


----------



## notenuftoys

This is an awesome thread!! I'll be building a draw board this weekend so I've been reading through all the great ideas. 

One question, though: which is better, vertical or horizontal? Or is it just preference?


----------



## stanmc55

notenuftoys said:


> This is an awesome thread!! I'll be building a draw board this weekend so I've been reading through all the great ideas.
> 
> One question, though: which is better, vertical or horizontal? Or is it just preference?


In my opinion there is a use for both......I have the one listed above, I have an LCA on my LCA press, and I have a diy draw board that mounts to a wall to save shop space......










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----------



## jaburton

Tagged


----------



## MiLBowhunter87

Tagged


----------



## NoviceAddicted

I made a very reasonable and functional Draw-Board running a piece of uni-strut, (lowes) laying sideways and clamped onto two metal saw horses (lowes) with a harbor freight worm winch, harbor freight clamps for everything, some plumbing parts which were an iron base flange, black iron pipe screwed into base flange that is screwed into uni strut holes with bolts, nuts, washers, run some electrical tape around pipe and uni strut where bow may contact to not scratch bow, get a thick bungee cord to tie bow into holes in uni strut, put worm winch clamped on top of uni strut, clamped, Bow will stand upright and have decent angle to pull on draw board. Certainly nothing fancy but does the job. Not including Saw horses around $65.


----------



## kballer1

Built this draw board back in about 1988 while marketing with JVA / Astro Bows, first ones used ratchet winch but got tired of messing with turn buckle for close adjustments so changed to a worm gear winch. Every body complains about it being so slow well it takes about 1 minute to get to full draw, way easier & as fast as messing with turn buckle. It can be set up free standing in horizontal or vertical position.


----------



## Japflip33

Couple questions- 

1) has anyone used 550 Cord as a replacement for the winch wire/cable? 

2) for a right handed bow does the winch need to be installed on the right of the work bench? 
Thank you for all of the ideas and inormation!


----------



## Lugg

Japflip33 said:


> Couple questions-
> 
> 1) has anyone used 550 Cord as a replacement for the winch wire/cable?
> 
> 2) for a right handed bow does the winch need to be installed on the right of the work bench?
> Thank you for all of the ideas and inormation!


I used paracord and a couple 4 part blocks for mine, it's nice for setting cam timing as its very easy to move it a quarter inch at a time back and forth.


----------



## Arsmith

making one soon


----------



## notfilckr

A lot of good ideas here.


----------



## roosclan

OK, I built a simple draw board last year, and discovered an "issue" when trying to use it for both LH and RH bows. I am a lefty, but two of my boys are right-handed. How do deal with the sight and rest when you mount the opposite-handed bow on a horizontal draw board? I am going to make another draw board, and need it to be useful for LH and RH bows.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## nuts&bolts

roosclan said:


> OK, I built a simple draw board last year, and discovered an "issue" when trying to use it for both LH and RH bows. I am a lefty, but two of my boys are right-handed. How do deal with the sight and rest when you mount the opposite-handed bow on a horizontal draw board? I am going to make another draw board, and need it to be useful for LH and RH bows.
> 
> Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


Simple. Two winches (one at each end). Two floor flanges for the pipe (one at each end).



I have the standard boat winch at the near end of the photo. If you look closely, behind the bow at the far end, you can see a worm drive winch.


----------



## roosclan

I simply don't have the room to do that. Would it be feasible to set the pipe out far enough with extra wood that I won't get contact with the main board, and would I need to do the same with the winch (or would it be ok to leave the winch bolted to the main board)?

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## Japflip33

*Distance*

What is the average measurement between the winch and the mount for the bow?


----------



## Lygris

going to steal these directions


----------



## xX-RHINO-Xx

Looks Great ..... Any materials/building instructions?


----------



## roosclan

Well, I have my draw board built, but the bow still tilts, even with the rope 3" above the grip. To get the bow to pull straight back, I would need the rope to be about 6" high, which doesn't seem realistic. It also doesn't work for how I have the board built for both left- and right-handed bows. I will get so.e pics up later this afternoon.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## roosclan

Here is what I built this weekend. Space is limited for me to work on archery stuff, so I built it to draw vertically. At full draw, the bow doesn't tilt much. During the draw, it tilts a good bit. I have two holes in it because I have to tune both LH and RH bows: when I need to tune a RH bow, I unscrew the pipe and put it on the other side. This keeps the rest and sight off the board.









Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mitch_Repak

a draw board could also be used to hold a bow at peak weight to stretch/break in new stings. instead of having to shoot the bow 500 or so times you let it sit in the draw board for 30 min and it usually does the trick


----------



## dylanthomsen12

Lot of good information on here. Marked to find post again


----------



## Gun Runner

These are some great ideas, will definitely need to borrow some of these


----------



## gsheetrock

Great ideas, very useful. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Fast1elk

Agree great ideas. Going to be building mine here in the near future this will help!!


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## Wandy

I made the drawboard following guideline. 6’ 2x8, 8”nipple and flange, harbor freight worm drive (did not replace wire...yet). Will add an eyebolt inline with the 3” offset along my draw length. I wanted to add a scale so I could measure draw weight and bought this but it’s way to big to fit into the drawboard and probably not too accurate for draw weight measurements. 

Allen Sportsman's Scale, 550 Lb. Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TX0T8...abc_44H1CRAZE9SGXFWHW1FP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

what are you guys using? Should I have made my board longer?


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## kballer1

Vertical, or horizonal or remove 2 bolts & portable. Made this back in the late 80's.


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## Wandy

What scale are you using? Still searching for an accurate scale that will hold 300lb for serving and give accurate peak and continuous holding weight for cam/limb adjustments.


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## BigSky

That vertical model with the pulleys looks interesting.


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