# Bare Shaft tuning results (help)



## mdharcher (Sep 8, 2006)

If your grouping is as good as the pic of the arrows I would leave it alone! haha no reason to chance if it shooting the same hole. Nice shooting! Maybe check for fletching contact. Put a little lip stick on the edge of you vanes to see they leave a mark on anything.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

I guess you're just saying; "Hey, look at this." Well, target looks fine. Here's the thing about paper tuning, and we say it over and over; Paper tuning is only one step of fine tuning a bow.


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## berry79 (Jul 20, 2012)

I just use paper tuning in the beginning to set my nock height. After that I walk back tune then bare shaft. No need to check through paper again.


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## ru4auto (Apr 19, 2010)

thanks for responding, I am by no means saying look at my groups just asking if this is the norm/expected after tuning, why and if i had done something wrong/skipped a step... i will recheck for contact though i believe there is none..


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## RONMARRIOTT (Apr 11, 2010)

Paper tuning to me is just a guide. I put way more stock in bare shaft and fletched arrow hitting the same! Then walk back tune. Then BH tune. Because for me I tune to what i am going to do, hit the animal in the boiler room ! But this is just what i do and not what others do. BTW nice shooting !!!! I wouldn't touch a thing on that set up !!!


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## ru4auto (Apr 19, 2010)

thanks ronmarriott, those are generally my thoughts as well, however i just expected something different when shooting through paper after tuning


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## threetoe (May 13, 2011)

20 yards?

Doesn't anyone here know how to read?


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## ru4auto (Apr 19, 2010)

what do you mean "20 yards?" is it tooshort of a distance or long


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## Guardian Shoote (Jan 11, 2007)

looks good 20 yards is fine


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## archer4family (Nov 12, 2007)

I have neve bare shaft tuned my arrows. this is not done at the local shops. I am interested in the steps I should take to accomplish what you guys are discussing. Do I use the bare shaft throughout the tuning procees? when do I tune with fletched arrows and at what distance? I am new to this, so can someone please explain how this works. I think it will help. thank you.


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## giltyone (Nov 9, 2009)

ru4auto said:


> what do you mean "20 yards?" is it tooshort of a distance or long


I think someone is thinking you paper tuned at 20yards. I think the bareshaft was at 20 yards and your paper tune at 6 feet. Unless I too have read it wrong.


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## Pete53 (Dec 5, 2011)

some of the highest scores ever shot in the pro`s have been with bows that were not tuned perfect. the books claim when paper tuning that a right hand shooter needs to have a tear in paper left and high of less than an inch,left hand shooter right and high under an inch.one of the greatest pro shooter`s of all time terry ragsdale did some paper tuning after he one a pro shoot and set a new record,this was the results on his paper tuning after his match ,he had almost a foot rip in paper.so really does it matter that much if its close when you paper tune ? to me its still kind of a unknown science or art ? good luck


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Pete53 said:


> some of the highest scores ever shot in the pro`s have been with bows that were not tuned perfect. the books claim when paper tuning that a right hand shooter needs to have a tear in paper left and high of less than an inch,left hand shooter right and high under an inch.one of the greatest pro shooter`s of all time terry ragsdale did some paper tuning after he one a pro shoot and set a new record,this was the results on his paper tuning after his match ,he had almost a foot rip in paper.so really does it matter that much if its close when you paper tune ? to me its still kind of a unknown science or art ? good luck


First, Terry Ragsdale was/is far beyond us mere mortals. His form from start to finish was regarded as flawless. Bow mechanically sound (repeats regardless) and perfect form with each and every shot and a set distance, the arrow will impact the same. Add some distance and the arrow will impact to a different location.

The once desired high and left less than inch inch is a hold over from years past. Basically, it's now all but a myth. However, this is not to say such doesn't work or that some bows that just won't tune through paper well aren't accurate. This offset tear/then desired tear was said to make the arrow correct itself the same way each and every time. This said, French tuning is regarded as the best tuning procedure going for finding center shot. Add playing with the rest height or nocking to see if groups can be tightened and it's near perfection tuning. The longer the distance used the more precise center shot is. Those who have used the French tuning procedure (and I) have seen some not so good tears through paper, but we don't care.


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## threetoe (May 13, 2011)

Bare shaft through paper is first from 6 FEET then 12 FEET.

From there either walk back or french tune with Fletched arrows.

At 6 and 12 FEET all you are doing is getting the shaft to come off the string STRAIGHT. Then you use the SAME arrows FLETCHED and begin the real tuning.

Bare shaft is used to get you CLOSE only!


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## ru4auto (Apr 19, 2010)

giltyone said:


> I think someone is thinking you paper tuned at 20yards. I think the bareshaft was at 20 yards and your paper tune at 6 feet. Unless I too have read it wrong.


 you are correct, bare shaft at 20 yards, and paper at 6 feet..


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## archer4family (Nov 12, 2007)

I just came back from the shop and my goodness was that an experience. I could not get the bow tuned properly to get a bullet hole with a bare shaft. I must be doing something wrong. It cannot be this difficult. I could not get the bow to shoot a good hole with the bare shaft. any suggesttions?


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## ru4auto (Apr 19, 2010)

I walked back tuned then I followed a bare shaft tuning page that i had printed out from here, it had me shoot a fletched arrow then compare it to how the bare shaft flew, then add a twist to one side of the y cable Example my bare shafts flew left of my fletched arrow so i had to twist up the right side of my y cable....


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## archer4family (Nov 12, 2007)

question: did you alter your grip or was yourr grip perfect? I had a few friends shoot my bow and they shot perfect holes. I did not. should i still add twist to the yolk cable? i was told they are not shooting your bow so you should tune the bow for how I shoot it. What do you think?


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

threetoe said:


> Bare shaft through paper is first from 6 FEET then 12 FEET.
> 
> From there either walk back or french tune with Fletched arrows.
> 
> ...


bare shaft tuning is NOT a minor tuning method, its actually a very accurate tuning process that when you can get bareshaft and fletched shooting together your setup is shooting very accurately. please get your info correct, if you trully thing that bareshaft is just a minor tuning process you dont understand tuning, PAPER is a minor tuning process to get close, walkback tuning, bareshaft tuning, and broadhead tuning go further into the tuning process.


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

ru4auto said:


> what do you mean "20 yards?" is it tooshort of a distance or long


NO that bareshaft and fletched pic you showed at 20yards is great, if your a hunter you can go on and check BHs, make sure to spin test them on arrows though.



Guardian Shoote said:


> looks good 20 yards is fine


AGREED very good for 20yds, there stacked together....



ru4auto said:


> I walked back tuned then I followed a bare shaft tuning page that i had printed out from here, it had me shoot a fletched arrow then compare it to how the bare shaft flew, then add a twist to one side of the y cable Example my bare shafts flew left of my fletched arrow so i had to twist up the right side of my y cable....


you did right, dont worry about someones saying paper tuning overrides bareshaft tuning, thats 100% incorrect, you did good.


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## ru4auto (Apr 19, 2010)

archer4family said:


> question: did you alter your grip or was yourr grip perfect? I had a few friends shoot my bow and they shot perfect holes. I did not. should i still add twist to the yolk cable? i was told they are not shooting your bow so you should tune the bow for how I shoot it. What do you think?


I had to work on my grip for some time, I don't really know the anwser to that, though good form is the key to consistancy (grip included).. personally I have seen guys that looked like they had great form but couldn't get the same tear through paper to save thier life, and on the other hand have seen guys with horriable form get the same hole over and over again.

The whole idea behind a good grip is so you don't torque the bow, the bow should be tuned to you not somebody else

I worked on form first (consistancy) 
paper tuned (just get it close)
walk back tune
bareshaft tune
broadhead tune


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## archer4family (Nov 12, 2007)

I was asked several questions by some fellow archers. One of the questions was about the change in FOC when the arrow has no vanes, how can you compare the two. The other was how bare shaft tuning can be accurate when you shoot arrows with vanes. I did not have the answers to these questions and looked a little stupid trying something that I did not know everything about. 
I just kept trying to get a good hole through paper, which proved to be a bigger challenge than I expected. Bare shaft tuning exposed every little flaw i had in my form and it ddrove me crazy. I had a hard time accepting this. MY question is simple, say a have a 1 inch nock left horizontal tear in the paper, do I put some twists in the yolk or work on my grip? I want to put twists in the yolk, however I thought it would not matter if my grip was off a little. Will it? I want to set the bow up for my form and my grip. Is this the right thing to do?


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## ru4auto (Apr 19, 2010)

Foc does change when shooting a bare shaft but it is very minute and dosn't effect it.

shooting a bare shaft shows you what the arrow is doing coming out of the bow with out correction (vanes) you can say this is correcting horizontal nock travel, if the bare shaft and the fletched arrows fly in the same vertical line the string is staying directly behind the arrow and not kicking left or right causing it to fly left or right (bare shaft). This is also helping all the energy from the bow to be transferred to the arrow in a straight path, rather then some energy be lost from kicking the arrow left and right

Your grip matters if you are not consistent, You can do all the tuning you want and it won't make a difference in your accuracy if you are not consistent with your form. If you are consistent i would go ahead and walk back tune(also called modified french tuning) to find your true center shot on your bow then bare shaft tune i decided to do mine shooting at target because i felt it showed me more then paper could


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

ru4auto said:


> I worked on form first (consistancy)
> paper tuned (just get it close)
> walk back tune
> bareshaft tune
> broadhead tune


most times i dont even paper tune, ive got enough knowledge on most bows to get bow into spec and a good starting setup, ie just did a solo cam bow for a guy and did new strings and setup, he was shooting FP and BH out to 30 yards with no changes, alot of luck for this instance but knowing good starting setups for different style bows does help. Im no master tuner of all bows but i have a pretty good base.

I like your process there, i think you have each step in perfect order and BH tuning will be there when bareshaft is good also, This info on thread should help some others also

Glad your all good to go....


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## archer4family (Nov 12, 2007)

I started to walk back tune last night with my target bow, Apex 7. I noticed the arrow tore paper different when I was using my hinge release verse my carter thumb release, which was my main release. I was pulling hard on the hinge release verse just holding with the carter thumb release so my bow was tuned for that. My grip is very consistant, not perfect but, very consistant. So I tuned the bow according to how I was pulling with the hinge release and started noticing a difference immediately. a few twists here and there, more hair loss and then, the bow settled down. the arrows started flying consistantly. It seemed the set up was more forgiving with the hinge release when the bow tuned to it. I learned alot from you guys on this post. Thank you for once again showing me that there are different and better ways to do things with your bow, not just what the collective at the shop says is the best way. Awesome! thank you. 

02


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## ru4auto (Apr 19, 2010)

Glad things worked out for you.. now it is time for a beer :darkbeer:


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