# Bow fishing.



## Rustam Bana (Sep 21, 2008)

It looks like a lot of fun and I'd like to give it a bash with my Martin Jaguar recurve and would appreciate any advice from the experienced bow fishermen amongst us.

I also have a few questions...

1) How effective are the screw on hand wind reels?

2) Since spincast reels are being used, can I not use one of my low profile or round baitcasters?

3) I see that high poundage (80 lbs and higher) line is being sold for bow fishing reels. Why is that and why is it prefered to monofilament fishing line?

4) Does one have to use an arrow rest specifically meant for bow fishing or can I continue to use the Hoyt Hunter rest I am using at present?

5) If baitcasters are not appropriate, could you recommend a good spincast reel. I would be targeting carp, tilapia and cat fish.

Thanks.

Rustam


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## Two Blade (Jul 13, 2008)

Rustam Bana said:


> 2) Since spincast reels are being used, can I not use one of my low profile or round baitcasters?


I can't imaging holding my thumb on one of my old Shimano baitcasters and shooting a bow at the same time. Spincast reels, like a Zebco 33, you can press the button and no line will come out if there is no weight on it and when you cast a spincast reel, you don't have to worry about a backlash like you do when casting a baitcaster.


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## Two Blade (Jul 13, 2008)

Rustam Bana said:


> 5) If baitcasters are not appropriate, could you recommend a good spincast reel. I would be targeting carp, tilapia and cat fish.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Rustam


http://www.yeoldearcheryshoppe.com/zebco-prostaff-spincast-reel-p-1640.html


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## Rustam Bana (Sep 21, 2008)

For fishing, if I adjust the settings correctly, I do not need to feather the spool, though in practice that is what I do but only because it is a habit and to control the distance of the cast. However, I do think you have hit upon the answer as to why baitcasters aren't used for bow fishing.

Thanks for the link. Do you use the Zebco 888?


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## Two Blade (Jul 13, 2008)

Rustam Bana said:


> Thanks for the link. Do you use the Zebco 888?


I don't bowfish. I know what you mean by adjusting the reel so it doesn't backlash but that requires a fair amount of tension on the line and that would probably slow down your arrow and affect arrow flight, IMHO.


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## J. Wesbrock (Dec 17, 2003)

Don't use a baitcaster. 

Bowfishing line should peel out with no drag. With a baitcaster, the spool has to spin to release line. That's a bad idea when your line instantly goes from 0 to 160+ fps. 

Hand-wrap reels are good, but take a long time between shots since you are manually rewrapping the line. Spincasts like the Shakespear Synergy are inexpensive and used quite often for bowfishing. You can usually find them at any Wal-Mart store for around $30.


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## Rustam Bana (Sep 21, 2008)

Thanks, AKM and JW. I'll start with the hand wind reels.

Grateful if someone can answer Q4. Other tips and tricks would also help.


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

A word of caution!

Very serious to fatal injuries have occurred as a result of improper bowfishing rigs being used.

When shooting an arrow that has a string/cord attached to the arrow, for safety use a reel/line system that eliminates most of the possibility that the string/cord will snag or lock when the arrow is released. Otherwise, you or someone near you could be severely injured when the arrow is deflected backwards or to the side (generally called "snap back.")

The traditional bow-reel that requires you retrieve the line manually is much safer than a standard "spin cast" reel as long as your system for line lay eliminates/decreases the possibility of the line getting snagged behind the reel. With a spin cast reel, the sudden shock when the bowstring is released commonly trips the line take-up, causing the line to snag, sending the arrow back at you.

If you do not want to use or can't afford the modern bow fishing rigs that are now available, use an open-face reel and devise a system that that will securely lock the bail back. Even if the bail trips, the reel can reverse its direction of turning and a snagged line will probably throw the bail open. Not a 100% prevention against snap-back, but greater margin of safety than using a "spin cast."

As a final safety feature, wear safety glasses/goggles.

There are arrow rests made specifically for bow fishing, but we always made our own by using material that was solid and impervious to moisture. Before the available material of today, we used to use cut sections of glass or aluminum shafts and glue the section to the shelf pad.


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## Rustam Bana (Sep 21, 2008)

Appreciate the word of caution, Wind Walker.

I have more or less decided to start with - http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...parentType=index&indexId=cat600364&hasJS=true


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## Bobman (Dec 18, 2004)

Ive done a ton of bow fishing

1) How effective are the screw on hand wind reels?

*if you mean the type you hand wind the line on they work best keep it simple*

2) Since spincast reels are being used, can I not use one of my low profile or round baitcasters?

*never tried it and wouldn't.... keep it simple if the line doenst pay out smoothly and stop it breaks or worse the arrow comes back at you*

3) I see that high poundage (80 lbs and higher) line is being sold for bow fishing reels. Why is that and why is it prefered to monofilament fishing line?

*softer especailly in high test rates easier to hand wind wont break as easy and less prone to tangles doesnt "set"*

4) Does one have to use an arrow rest specifically meant for bow fishing or can I continue to use the Hoyt Hunter rest I am using at present?

*I use a recurve and shoot off the shelf*


5) If baitcasters are not appropriate, could you recommend a good spincast reel. I would be targeting carp, tilapia and cat fish.

*just buy a big hand winding reel its all very close range shooting*

Thanks.

Rustam


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## Rustam Bana (Sep 21, 2008)

Thanks, Bobman.


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

As a side note: being that glass bowfishing shafts and heads have become near cost-prohibitive vs. loss of shaft/head....and it can happen...or you just want to reduce cost, here is what we used to do, and I still do for certain hunting heads. 

We would buy 6' sections of solid/rigid fiberglass rods at electronic shops or at dealers that sold solid fiberglass rods for other uses. Although we preferred an 11/64 rod, for whatever reason the 5/16th diameter was most common (available). Today, various diameter solid fiberglass rods are more available and easily available from various sources. I recently saw some 5/16 OD x 8' solid rods at a hobby shop going for $5.00 a rod. I also saw an ad where the 5/16 OD x 6' solid rod is going for about $4.00.

We cut the rods to the length we preferred, and at least two shafts were obtainable out of a 6' rod. Then we would glue on broadhead adapters that were made for the wood arrows, but rarely used on wood arrows, but perfect for making fiberglass bowfishing arrows. The combination of the weight of the adapter and the head made for good performance in the water.

Once the shaft was ready, some of us made our own barbed heads. I came up with a design and process that many of started using because the head was easy and cheap to make. I still use the design and the jig I made to make my own "Judo-type" points.



















Using a fieldpoint mounted on a short section of aluminum shaft, I simply stick the head in my jig, place the jig on my drill press and drill a small hole through the head to accept a section of spring steel wire. For my Judo-types, my jig allows me to drill 2 separate holes through the head. For the bowfishing head, we drilled just one hole and used what length of steel spring wire we preferred. For the bowfising heads we used the long and heavy fieldpoints. 

To lock the wire, I use a pair of needle-nose pliers to put a slight dimple in the wire. The "dimpled" section is tapped into the center of the fieldpoint so it's tight. Then, for the small game head and the bowfishing head, I heat the fieldpoint until it is glowing and then using a hammer and punch I tap the head near the wire and then quickly dip the head in cold water. 

I discovered that sometimes after heating the head to a glowing red and then quickly immersing the head in cold water, locked in the wires without having to tap the head. The small game heads in the pics have not been tapped.

Once the small games heads have completely cooled, I clip the wire to the length(s) I want, and then using the needle-nose pliers I bend the ends as indicated. For the bowfishing head, I simply clip the wire to the length I want and then I bend the wires backward to the angle I want.

Using this same method, minus the solid fiberglass rod, I make my own bird heads by drilling 2 sets of holes and using longer lengths of wire. In the past I have made some bird heads of which I bent the wires to point forward at an angle to create a "harpooning" effect.


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## J. Wesbrock (Dec 17, 2003)

Rustam Bana said:


> Thanks, AKM and JW. I'll start with the hand wind reels.
> 
> Grateful if someone can answer Q4. Other tips and tricks would also help.


Your Hoyt Hunter rest will work fine. It's probably stronger than my choice of rest -- NAP Flipper II -- and I've never had one break while bowfishing.


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## sticknmofish (Jun 29, 2008)

Rustam Bana said:


> It looks like a lot of fun and I'd like to give it a bash with my Martin Jaguar recurve and would appreciate any advice from the experienced bow fishermen amongst us.
> 
> I also have a few questions...
> 
> ...


If you would like to look at some bowfishing stuff check out bowfishingextreme.com

You might want to look at the AMS retreiver reel to mont on the side of your bow. And for all beginers i recomend saftey slides also by AMS.


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## Rustam Bana (Sep 21, 2008)

WindWalker: You are right about the cost of bowfishing arrows and if I can find fibreglass rods in my neck of the woods, then your post will save me a substantial amount in bow fishing arrows and arrows for the kids. How many bowfishing arrows should one generally have? Would five such arrows be sufficient or is the rate of loss pretty high? Thanks for an excellent post.

J. Wesbrock: Thanks once again.

Sticknmofish: Thanks for answering the questions and the link. Which bowfishing rest would you recommend? I did come across the AMS Retriever reel but the price is rather high for me, especially when I am not sure how often I will be bow fishing - at the very most it would be once a month. As for safety slides, I had already decided to have them on all my bowfishing arrows but thanks for pointing it out.

Would any of you strongly recommend using Lay-Fletch bowfishing vanes? http://www.3riversarchery.com/Bow+F...rrow+"Feathers"_c56_s73_p0_i4267_product.html


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

> How many bowfishing arrows should one generally have? Would five such arrows be sufficient or is the rate of loss pretty high?


Depends much on depth of waters to be bowfished and size of fish. With a strong line and a secure tie, 5 shafts should be ample.

However, if you plan on shooting one _these _gars or large fish such as this, the spring steel wire of a small diameter won't hold in the fish. :mg:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yn73OfqgB10

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCqEBqJv9sA

For these big boys, I recommend using a whaling harpoon. LOL


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## Rustam Bana (Sep 21, 2008)

LOL. No gars for me. Not yet, anyway. I have a friend in Texas who catches them on rod and reel and I'd love to fish them some day.

Have just put together a small package that costs less than an AMS reel and should Extreme Bowfishing provide a manageable shipping quote, I can get started in a week or two.

In the meanwhile, I am going to ask around for 5/16" dia. fibreglass rods and should I find them, that will be the biggest hurdle out of the way as they increase the shipping costs tremendously due to the length of the package.

Thanks for all the help.


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## sticknmofish (Jun 29, 2008)

Rustam Bana said:


> LOL. No gars for me. Not yet, anyway. I have a friend in Texas who catches them on rod and reel and I'd love to fish them some day.
> 
> Have just put together a small package that costs less than an AMS reel and should Extreme Bowfishing provide a manageable shipping quote, I can get started in a week or two.
> 
> ...


Is that Extreme Bowfishing or Bowfishing extreme? If it is Bowfishing Extreme Scott is very reasonable on his shipping rates and very fast shipping but i would just call him he call also give you some good pointers.


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## Rustam Bana (Sep 21, 2008)

Sorry about that. It should have been Bowfishing Extreme. I sent Scott an e-mail and got a prompt reply asking me what I wanted to order and that he would get back to me with a quote.

Unfortunately, shipping to India isn't cheap. To give you an idea, I had to pay $40.13 for two dozen 1816 arrows via USPS and the lowest quote received from a courier (UPS) for the same was $98.00 I prefer using a courier because they clear customs and deliver within a week. On the other hand, Indian Postal Customs are tardy and a pain in the backside to deal with.


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## J. Wesbrock (Dec 17, 2003)

Rustam Bana said:


> Would any of you strongly recommend using Lay-Fletch bowfishing vanes? http://www.3riversarchery.com/Bow+F...rrow+"Feathers"_c56_s73_p0_i4267_product.html


Don’t use fletching on bowfishing arrows. It’s completely unnecessary. The slight drag created by your bowfishing line should be more than sufficient to keep your arrow flying straight.

Honestly, I didn’t even know people made fletching for bowfishing arrows anymore.


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## Rustam Bana (Sep 21, 2008)

Noted and thanks.


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