# D-loop length...



## archeryisme (May 22, 2006)

D Loop length does not change draw length. Only changing mods, twisting strings, or cables will change draw length. However D loop length can change your drawing arm, and shoulder anchor position. I usually set my draw length so the string stops right at my nose tip. Then I adjust my loop length to get a comfortable anchor with my draw arm. I like to keep my drawing arm, and elbow in line with the arrow as much as possible. By tweaking the loop length you can accomplish this.


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## bbjavelina (Jan 30, 2005)

7/8" seems a little excessive to me, but I think it really depends on how comfortable you are with your anchor point. Doe's the draw feel long? are you getting a consistent and comfortable anchor?

If done properly, a shorter loop could give you a slightly lengthened power stroke and a few more fps. If all you do is shorten your loop you may feel all scrunched up at anchor. 

Do you tie your own or have it done? I find that it's helpful to stretch the chord before ever starting to tie on. I buy chord in 3 foot lengths. Put one end in a vise, grab the other with pliers and lean back on it. You can actually feel the chord stretching. Never seen a shop do this. Always wax the chord good before tying to help it draw up tighter.

Apparently most shooters cut their loops to a given length and melt the balls so that they're ready to tie on. I've tried this, but I always wind up with too long a loop. If it's long enough to manipulate into knots I wind up with outlandish loops. I think this is because I use tied nock sets. 

I prefer to melt a ball on each end of a long piece of chord after stretching as mentioned above. Then I tie it on outside the served nock sets just as short as I can. That means that I have to melt the last ball on the string, but it's worth it to me to get a good short loop. When I've drawn it tight with stretching pliers I wind up with the string/loop distance just at 1/2".

Best of luck to you.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

7/8" does sound long. I use tied strings nocks and have a loop of right at 5/8" long when holding draw weight. I just feel any shorter would just put stress on the string nocks, like crush them closer together and then have nock pinch.


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

It is crazy long, I was hoping there would be an advantage pointed out. I hate trying to get them right. Never can on first try it seems...


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## bbjavelina (Jan 30, 2005)

Alpha Burnt said:


> It is crazy long, I was hoping there would be an advantage pointed out. I hate trying to get them right. Never can on first try it seems...


Try, try, try again.

Soon you'll be doing it better (for you) and you won't be pleased with anyone else's work.


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

I just cut undone it, cut it and tightened it up. All is well.


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## bbjavelina (Jan 30, 2005)

Glad to hear it.


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## BowKil (Mar 19, 2005)

Your d-loop only needs to be long enough to allow easy attachment of your release without it hitting you arrow nock.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Maybe troublesome to some degree, but once I know the length that works I cut d-loop material and melt ends to have in the ready. Same length, but the last time that same material stretched just a bit more. Loosing the bottom knot and melting the end back another 1/8" made it right.


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

BowKil said:


> Your d-loop only needs to be long enough to allow easy attachment of your release without it hitting you arrow nock.


OR to adjust anchor point, there is NO set length you have to have your loop. but as said it does NOT change DL only anchor point, so make it as long as needed to fit your anchor poing and release to your liking and feel. 

i have a set length like sonny said, small for me is 4.5" length i believe


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

Something I did notice with it excessively long, seemed like my hinge release fired quicker.


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## CBG123 (Dec 18, 2010)

I always cut my rope at 4". After the ends are melted it comes out to be about 3 7/8 which is perfect for my liking.


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## n.vodden (Jun 28, 2012)

I've been using a pre-cut and finished piece of material at 4.5" which gives me a loop of just under 7/8". Always done me well but I think I need to shorten it a little.

Doing the kitchen sink and other tuning methods, I've arrived on my draw elbow being a bit too far back so I need to bring it forwards, but the string position against my face and bow arm position are spot on. So with that long loop I should be able to bring my draw elbow forwards and round a bit by shortening the loop right?

I wonder how much changing from 4.5" of material to 4.25 would change it?


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## bigHUN (Feb 5, 2006)

so, first of all, 
- the bow have its own DL, so the powerstroke is matching the arrow spine....
and 
- you as shooter have your own DL what is controlled by your anchor point.
- than we have releases (any, handles, wrist, just any) with longer or shorter "neck length"
and 
- in between is a d-loop connecting things together.

Some people have very short d-loop (because they have increased to a max the bow DL, this could be dangerous as well giving a bow for test shot to a friend who has a different style release (I have seen these cases before, hard rope material too short and the release "jumped out")

Me personally, set/tuned the bow DL power-stroke to the arrow spine (cut, and shoot and cut and shoot and so on), also using short style release (cascade) and the d-loop is in between about 3/4" long, softest material, so when I execute the shot even with smallest human error the flaw can only be transferred minimized. This just me, but I can feel the 1/8 in a DL as a huge difference.


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

Mine is set now to look like the one in post# 9.


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