# Dial-o-Fletch Bitzenburger jig HELP!!!



## swackhamer (May 24, 2005)

most that I know with a biscuit shoot the cock feather up. the 90 deg wich I use is for 4 fletch. the 75/105 is also I believe the 120 is what you want I usualy align my nock after I fletch at least with eastons. you might need the TM nock reciver . ILL check mine out and get back to you!


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## arkansasbowman (Nov 24, 2004)

*cock vane*

Reason you put the cock down is only one vane then passes through the WB and on the updated WB it goes through the black hairs. So if you tighten down the 120 set allen what do you get? 120* even spacing. I backed out the other two and screwed down the 120* all the way and the dial will not turn. Is the dial suspose to turn. Is the Index on the dial suspose to be in the top dead center position?


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## swackhamer (May 24, 2005)

the 120 screw is what you want back all 3 out till the reciver turns freeley then turn in the 120 setscrew (not all the way ) and turn the reciver you should feel some resistance and the reciver will have 3 definate lock points 120 deg apart. you can adjust the screw untill you have the resistance you like. I use the flat spot as a refferance point &always start on the flat spot first. the BITZENBURGER takes some getting used to but it is the best jig Ive ever used. :thumbs_up


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## arkansasbowman (Nov 24, 2004)

*all three backed out*

okay I must have a bad one then. I backed out all three then started to turn down the 120* screw. I did 1 full turn at time and then turned the dial. There is no click what so ever. Once the set screw is all the way in, it just does not turn. So it sounds like I have one that the nock index dial is no good. Is this right?


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## swackhamer (May 24, 2005)

under the screw there should be a spring & a ball Id take it out and check do all 3 act the same?


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## arkansasbowman (Nov 24, 2004)

*all three are the same*

I believe you are asking me to back out all three again and see if either of the 90* or the 75x105* have good click/stop points. If so, the answer is no. I either have a dial that turns freely or it just get evenly tight all around until it just won't turn at all (set allen all the way in).


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## swackhamer (May 24, 2005)

Yes thats what I was asking sorry I wasnt clear Id call bitzenburger 
888-724 5697 it sounds like there are pieces missing also they offer a (optional) nock reciver cock feather up / down all though Ive never used it with the nocks I use they can be turned to index them.


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## arkansasbowman (Nov 24, 2004)

*bought it used from AT member*

I will take it in too my shop. I might have to pay him a bit since I did not buy it from him but he is a great guy. Maybe I can just use the top dead center and put marks on the dial knob using a currently fletched arrow and just mark the other two positions on the knob.


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## bfisher (Nov 30, 2002)

Ark,

One thing I'd like to point out is that if you are using any arrows that have nock that index, those being carbon or aluminums with uni-nocks, then you don't need a TM nock reciever. You just fletch your arrows and after they are done you tunr your nocks to orient your vanes/ feathers where you want them.
If using glue-on nocks you can remove the nocks, and just screw new ones on hand tight. Fletch your arrows and then glue the new nocks on as you please.

Once you get the hang of the Bitz you're gonna like it. I've had mine about 30 years now, done many hundreds of arrows and know I will never wear it out.


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## arkansasbowman (Nov 24, 2004)

*agreed on nock not mattering 120* evenly placed*

It does appear I have a bad dial is all. There are no stop points on any of the different setting's with dial and set screw in any position.


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## arkansasbowman (Nov 24, 2004)

*Okay took dial apart*

Okay confused but understand how the stop points work. On the dial there are inverted dimples that the ball bearing that is push by the small spring should drop into causing a stop sensation. What I do not understand is that on mine these inverted dimples are only where the 120* would catch. There are no dimple's where the 90* or the 75x105* would ever catch. It is also obvious that the 120* spring/ball bearing is not working because it does not ever drop into the dimple causing the stop. Strange! all I got to say about that.


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## FS560 (May 22, 2002)

Does you jig have the springs and steel balls under the three setscrews? Take the setscrews out and the springs and balls should fall out. The balls are not supposed to come out the receiver side but just barely protrude from the hole enough to work with the detent dimples.

Make sure that the receiver retainer screw allows the receiver to line up with the 120 ball position.

Did you buy this jig new or used. The bitzenburger receivers should have all three rows of detents. Does this jig have knobs for the side to side adjustment of the clamp? The knobs should have allen head locks in the top of the knob.

With glue on nocks, I just spit on the tapered end of the shaft before twisting a nock on. It will stay in place for fletching. Then orient a fresh nock with glue and check for runout (wobble).

With nocks just twisted on for fletching, always rotate the arrow to the next position using the receiver.


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## arkansasbowman (Nov 24, 2004)

*reply*

yes, each setting has a set screw, spring, ball bearing.

the balls do not come through the receiver side

I can adjust the set allen to push the ball just so that it is seen entering the area where the receiver would be.

There is only one set of three dimples, so again no way the 90 or 75x105 could work.

Bought is used off AT classifieds. 

yes has the adjustment knobs to create offset fletching.


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## AKDoug (Aug 27, 2003)

I believe that the TM nock receiver only has one row of dimples for use with the 120 set screw. For what you want to do, the TM is what you need anyway. Bitz will send you a new spring and ball if that is what you need to fix it.


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