# Hunting recurve



## kentsabrina (Aug 23, 2017)

any budget?


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## kentsabrina (Aug 23, 2017)

For metal riser TD that can be used for bow fishing........

~~the cheapest should be Mandarin Duck Phantom, which is the same bow of PSE Kingfisher.
~~still cheap but a bit more expensive is Galaxy Mag Hunter or Scorch, they are similar TD recurve, only different being the overall length.

they are good bows with legit performance that suit ur bow fishing requirement ....but they are indeed cheap bows.....

BTW......get a recurve in correct poundage, I would suggest a max out 10lbs over ur compound's actual holding weight.


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## kentsabrina (Aug 23, 2017)

or if u do not insist getting a metal riser, any wood TD recurve will inserts will do just fine.

such as Southwest Archery TigerShark Takedown


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## jtkratzer (Dec 22, 2006)

I went through this over the summer. I didn't have aspirations of bowfishing at the time. I started with a 35# Samick Sage to dabble. Borrowed one from a friend and eventually moved into a TradTech Titan II with 50# medium limbs. That was a jump in weight that took some time to get adjusted. Check out the TradTech risers. They stand behind their products and are well made. You can shoot them off the shelf or put a rest and plunger on them, bolt on quiver if you want. The one I'm shooting used to be a bowfishing bow.


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## Curdogger (Nov 7, 2017)

Well budget is some one what of a concern as I have not shot a trad bow. I planned on getting a new compound this year but have decided to sell my spare bow which is a bow tech boss. After selling it I don't want to spend more than 400 after arrows an tab.


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## jtkratzer (Dec 22, 2006)

You'll have a hard time getting a complete new metal ILF riser bow with that budget. I saw your post about the Hoyt...the Satori riser is right around or over $400 alone, right? Plus you need limbs, string, arrows, etc. Don't know if this is still available, and it's a bit over your budget, but this is a nice package. It will depend on your draw length and strength to figure out if 40# long limbs will work for you. I shoot the same riser with medium limbs (makes a 60" bow rather than 62" with the long limbs). But that's roughly a $700 bow and limb combo, plus a $50 grip, string and shelf included. http://tradtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113033

I get it on the budget. I traded my back up compound bow to get into an ILF hunting set up. I'm likely going to get a new set up limbs for my BowTech Destroyer 350 to set up for my dad to get back into archery. I'm completely bit by the trad bug after shooting a doe with one last Wednesday and getting into competitions with a target set up. I don't know that I'll ever go back to compound.

Galaxy makes a riser for $180, but it doesn't appear to have drilled/tapped holes for a bolt on quiver, if that's important. Complete bow for $300.
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/galaxy-sear-60-takedown-recurve-bow.html


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## elkstabber (Oct 24, 2017)

For your first bow at a reasonable price I would suggest shopping on ebay for an older used recurve. There is nothing wrong with a bow made in the 70's and the really great part about buying used is that you can likely sell it back on ebay and probably break even. I did this a couple of times when starting into recurves. Your first recurve will NOT be your last recurve because you will quickly learn what you like and don't like about the bows.

You should be able to find a used Martin, Wing, Ben Pearson, etc for $100 or so. For arrows you can also buy affordable aluminum arrows and a new bowstring from vendors on ebay. Make sure that the arrows have feathers and not vanes. If you buy a used bow first throw away the old bowstring and order a new Flemish twist string. Don't get too worried about the spine of the arrow for your first bunch, but make sure that they are not too weak (for safety).

Here is a reasonable bow: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-WI...663131?hash=item3f8e61071b:g:cr4AAOSwyXNaKDyn


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## elkstabber (Oct 24, 2017)

If the bow hasn't been drilled/tapped for a quiver that's no problem because there are quivers that fit any bow: https://www.3riversarchery.com/selway-soft-koat-recurve-slide-on-5-arrow-bow-quiver.html

Also, if there isn't a stabilizer bushing for a bowfishing reel that's also no problem because there are solutions for that too: https://www.3riversarchery.com/great-northern-bowfishing-traditional-gadget-adapter.html


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## kentsabrina (Aug 23, 2017)

You can get the Sear ILF riser in $180, its a very good riser given the price, but prepare to spend another $100 for limbs for least to say, so I dont think u should go for ILF right now.

On the other hand~~~
1.Southwest Archery Tiger Shark
2.Mandarin Duck Phantom
3.Galaxy Mag Hunter
4.Galaxy Scorch

all will get u going under $200 brand new n they will last u good years, only if u dont mind the fact that u are running a economy rig.


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## aluminated (Oct 10, 2017)

IDK that I’d be looking to make my first recurve my hunting bow.
Reasons:
1.) You may discover that you hate trad archery (hahaha!) and have wasted a lot of money, effort, and time selecting a bow you won’t use and will want to resell; and
2.) A bow that has a draw weight high enough for hunting is IMnoobO too high to learn on.
If you do the math, even taking a compound with a modest DW and letoff, say 60# and 75%, you are still only holding 15#. Even adding 10# to that - an increase by 2/3 - you are only at 25# DW and that or even 30# is not enough to hunt with.
I would start with a cheap takedown. The Old Mountain Edge, Southwest Archery Spyder, PSE Night Hawk, and Samick Sage II are all supposedly the exact same bow manufactured by the same company. I’d start with the Edge @25# to 30# for $95 shipped. Or the “original” Samick Sage is still available for $110 or less TYD. After all, you probably won’t be hunting with it this year anyway, right?
BTW, all the above have the requested attachment points.


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## Bowmania (Jan 3, 2003)

Here's something to think about. You shorten the learning curve, probably more than cut it in half, by getting some 30-35 pound ILF limbs and a coach. If you've never shot a bow, you don't realize how much using your fingers changes the game. It leaves a lot more room for accomplishments.

Get the bow first. You might not want a new compound.

Bowmania


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## Curdogger (Nov 7, 2017)

The 400 cash I was figuring on top of what I got for my bow tech. I will get 35# an go from there. I **** deer as a kid with a 35lb Browning micro Midas an it killed deer I'm sure a recurve at 35lb can to. I've been shopping for used just havnt found what I want yet.


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## aluminated (Oct 10, 2017)

No doubt it can kill. That’s not in question. What I question is the ability of a novice trad archer to place the broadhead exactly where he wants it. As a fellow trad novice, I can tell you I cannot be sure I’d KILL the deer with my current skill level.


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## Curdogger (Nov 7, 2017)

I'm am lucky enough to be self employed an make my own hours. I will be taking instruction an putting a lot of time in to this so by 10/1/18. I fully expect to be lethal out to 25 yards.


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## jtkratzer (Dec 22, 2006)

Curdogger said:


> I'm am lucky enough to be self employed an make my own hours. I will be taking instruction an putting a lot of time in to this so by 10/1/18. I fully expect to be lethal out to 25 yards.


Easily done if you start out with instruction to avoid bad habits up front. I shot a recurve for the first time on 7/16 and killed a doe this year with one. Also signed up for three tournaments in the barebow division.


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## kentsabrina (Aug 23, 2017)

if u take classes, u can do club bows for first few months no problem, n let ur coach set u up later


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## lunger 66 (Feb 16, 2017)

Curdog, your goal of being ready to hunt this next season is attainable, even at 25 yards. I got this same goal done in 7 months, and killed a muley buck at 15 yards. The reason I was successful was the fact that I was willing to try everything, and listen/read everyone's thoughts, and try them out. I watched youtube vids and quickly figured out who knew what they were doing, and watched more from the push, Jimmy Blackmon, and others. I read this forum and asked lots of questions. Other people asked questions that I should have asked, so I read all the responses of everyone else too. What I'm trying to say is keep an open mind. The things i've read and watched were just as important as actual shooting practice, maybe even more. I'm wishing you luck, and hope that you stay with this forum. Almost forgot, if you can get a coach, or lessons, jump at the opportunity. Lunger


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## Runningbuck (Mar 11, 2009)

If you want a do everything, easy to shoot, bomb proof recurve look for a used Hoyt Gamemaster or Dorado. They are very reasonable price wise and great shooters. I have a few that are set up just for bowfishing. Over the years they have been dropped, stepped on, used for push poles and just about anything else you wouldn't want to have done to a bow with no damage. I have taken a few whitetails with them as well. One thing you should know if you look, the limbs will run about 5 pounds heavy so if you want say a 45 pound bow look for 40 pound limbs.


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## Curdogger (Nov 7, 2017)

I have used a compound bow for 20 years an have been successful with it. I have chosen to go to a trad bow for a new challenge an I am going to soak up up every bit of advice I can to be successful. I'm going to devote a full year to this. This is not a 2 month half hearted attempt at traditional archery.
I have found a used satori with 35lb limbs I'm thinking about jumping on.


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## jtkratzer (Dec 22, 2006)

Curdogger said:


> I have used a compound bow for 20 years an have been successful with it. I have chosen to go to a trad bow for a new challenge an I am going to soak up up every bit of advice I can to be successful. I'm going to devote a full year to this. This is not a 2 month half hearted attempt at traditional archery.
> I have found a used satori with 35lb limbs I'm thinking about jumping on.


What size is the riser? Have you done some reading on what size limbs (short, medium, long) are right for your draw length? If you shoot consistently and have some good people critique your form and help you get things right from the beginning, it shouldn’t take you a year to be confident to hunt next year. I’d recommend you start with three under and check out Matt Zirnsak’s “The Push” archery video on YouTube.


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## lunger 66 (Feb 16, 2017)

Curdog, if you keep that positive attitude you will go far. I'll make a suggestion on your bow. Try getting one at least 64 inches in length if you can. My neighbor has a dorado with sf long limbs, stab, and rest. It's 64 inches and a pretty good bow. Anyway, he is new to archery but ran this bow really well after shooting with me for a few times. I'm no coach, but taught him basic form, release, and bought arrows that were spined in the ballpark. I think the dorado is a good bow, but needs a stabilizer on it. We put an 8, or 10 inch on his, and it really helped. Don't overlook some of these other ilf risers too. I have a Hoyt excel 21inch, Hoyt Horizon 25 inch, and they shoot great and didn't cost much. I hear sf makes great risers too, for a great price. The ilf risers are great, because you can put any limbs on that you like if ilf. Good luck to you, Lunger


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## Bowmania (Jan 3, 2003)

You'll find that a full year is a half hearted attempt at traditional archery. It's a life style in which you sleep and breathe archery. Even with a coach there is always another hill to look over or a bend to look around. Best of luck, the 35 pound limbs are a good sensible start.

Bowmania


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## Curdogger (Nov 7, 2017)

I'm going to pick up a 21" riser satori tomorrow. It's 62" in total length. I


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## jtkratzer (Dec 22, 2006)

Curdogger said:


> I'm going to pick up a 21" riser satori tomorrow. It's 62" in total length. I


Short limbs. Your draw length is under 27"? That will be a versatile riser as you can use it as it for hunting or throw on medium limbs to make a nice target/3D bow at 64".


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## Curdogger (Nov 7, 2017)

My draw length is 30". If I remember right the bow has long limbs.


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## jtkratzer (Dec 22, 2006)

Curdogger said:


> My draw length is 30". If I remember right the bow has long limbs.


Then it should be a 66" bow. My 17" riser with mediums is 60". You're adding tow inches to the limbs and four to the riser. I'd verify those limbs because short limbs are way too small for your DL.


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## Curdogger (Nov 7, 2017)

I have a 30" draw. Why should I go with a 21" riser or say a 16" riser?


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## coxjacobn (Jul 17, 2014)

Great tips


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## HDIarchery (Oct 31, 2012)

i am shooting a hoyt tiburon, medium limbs, but my draw is 29. so far so good.


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