# stabilzer weights



## wheelie (Mar 2, 2009)

Till your bow is balanced how you want it. Does not happen quickly but you will know when you are on to something when your groups quickly close up. CHEERS!


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## PSEarchery2015 (Mar 12, 2015)

wheelie said:


> Till your bow is balanced how you want it. Does not happen quickly but you will know when you are on to something when your groups quickly close up. CHEERS!


Bow feels balanced but pin floats alot is this due not shooting enough or from a weight issues. Ive heard if you run more weight up front that it helps with the floating.


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## EPLC (May 21, 2002)

PSEarchery2015 said:


> I'm new to open class and im running a 12" rear with 30" front stabilizer. I'm wondering how to determine how much weight to run on both front & back?


You can start with a 1-2 ratio or even 1-3 ratio with the heavier side being the back bar.


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

You buy 30 or 40 ounces and you lay it out and you start shooting and adding weight in a variety of combinations until you find a combo that feels really good and produces a great float pattern. Screw the formulas and trying to be perfect from the first try, just test and find your combo.


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## Trueflight1 (Feb 12, 2013)

Start with four and sixteen. If your sight wants to drop out of the bottom then add rear weight if it goes out the top add front weight. As far as the rear bar goes just close your eyes and draw the bow back, anchor and open your eyes the bubble should be level if its not adjust your rear bar left or right until it does. If your sight is circleing the x then play with over all weight of the bow. Hope this helps.


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## PSEarchery2015 (Mar 12, 2015)

Thanks guys, Ive noticed the pin likes to float way out of the X didnt know if that had anything to do with the the weights. Im only running 6 ounes in the rear.


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## Trueflight1 (Feb 12, 2013)

Well I would run as much weight as you can without giving up your form. More weight will definatly slow movement down for you and if you get your set up perfect you shouldnt see a ton of float. I will leave mine alone when the float dont leave the ten ring. My set up is 30 front with 8oz and twelve back bar with 26oz. It will be differant for almost everyone depending on limb angle, grip position so on.


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## PSEarchery2015 (Mar 12, 2015)

Thanks guys!


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## yeroc (Jan 11, 2007)

Padgett said:


> You buy 30 or 40 ounces and you lay it out and you start shooting and adding weight in a variety of combinations until you find a combo that feels really good and produces a great float pattern. Screw the formulas and trying to be perfect from the first try, just test and find your combo.


i went with this method and it worked for me..couldnt afford the 40oz but luckily the 30oz did the trick.i ended up with 5oz on the front(30inch bar) and 16oz(15inch bar) on the rear.


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## Deputy Archer (Apr 12, 2009)

Running 30 with 4 and 12 with 15 on a podium 37. Be careful with the weight out front, I struggle with falling out the bottom, sometimes run 3 out front


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## RCR_III (Mar 19, 2011)

PSEarchery2015 said:


> I'm new to open class and im running a 12" rear with 30" front stabilizer. I'm wondering how to determine how much weight to run on both front & back?


I have a write up on how to figure this out on my website. The link to my site is in my signature.


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## dcreighton (Jan 2, 2008)

Great advice above but you may also find yourself chasing your tail if your draw length isn't dialed in or if you have too much draw weight when you start trying to figure out your bar/weight combo.


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## ron w (Jan 5, 2013)

i start out with about 2-1/2 rr to 1 frt. what you end up with may be totally different. don't be afraid to try whatever you think you might need or like and give changes a good long try before deciding if you like it or not.


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## mainehunt (Sep 11, 2006)

I've been struggling with this trying to use other peoples' ratios. I finally gave that up and just started to randomly add and drop weights on each bar. When I got frustrated I would give up and do something else, then go back to experimenting.

I finally stumbled on what seems to be my best option, The bow is now balanced front to back and side to side. Its also the most steady on the target.


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## schnauza2000 (Dec 27, 2013)

A rough 1 to 3 ratio has been working well for me, but don't be afraid to play with it either. For example, I've found that I hold better when my bow is a little off balance toward the front, but not so much that I'm falling out the bottom. Right now on my indoor bow I have 25" front with 3 oz and a 10" rear with 10 oz. Very much on the light side, but any more and I start falling out of the center.
Pay attention to the length and angle of your rods too. For instance, I like to run my back bar angled way down and close to the riser. Some other guys will have it sticking straight out the back or jutting way out to the side. I also found a huge difference with a 10 degree offset on my front stabilizer as opposed to straight. A 12 inch rod with X amount of weight will feel different than a 15 incher with the same weight, and vice versa.


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## nochance (Nov 27, 2008)

dcreighton said:


> Great advice above but you may also find yourself chasing your tail if your draw length isn't dialed in or if you have too much draw weight when you start trying to figure out your bar/weight combo.


Good response, You should first minimize float by fine tuning draw length with no weight on the bow which i think is often overlooked even by some intermediate shooters.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Weight it weight. Fender washers are cheap. $5.00 will buy a bunch. Use a cap bolt and lock washer. Got what you want, paint it. 

Get lucky, like me. Ask. I got 10 Stinger 1 ounce weights for $20.00. Black, but ask me if I care.


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## jim p (Oct 29, 2003)

You have to start somewhere. Put 8 ounces on the front and 24 ounces on the rear. If you can hold it up you should be fairly steady. Then start experimenting to see what works best for you.


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## Sasquech (Dec 15, 2014)

Most competitive archers have less than 6 on the front and enough to slightly front bias the bow at rest. Putting over 30 ounces on a bow unles you are rep Wilde is probably counter productive . I run 4 out front on 33 and 8 on the back on 15" and mounted the back bar at the lower mount. Now is quite stable. The front shoulder raising up has more impact than stabilization keep it down and your pin will be more stable. Good luck


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## PSEarchery2015 (Mar 12, 2015)

Should I focus on the pin floating less with more or less weights or focus more on the bow being more stable?


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## PUGIDOGS (Mar 17, 2005)

PSEarchery2015 said:


> Should I focus on the pin floating less with more or less weights or focus more on the bow being more stable?



http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1934185

A good place to start, Nuts and Bolts explains it well in this thread. Pugi


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

PSEarchery2015 said:


> Should I focus on the pin floating less with more or less weights or focus more on the bow being more stable?


Focus on being relaxed. Yes, you can learn to relax at full draw. Only relaxed will a bow respond much better. Tension and you will shake.


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## cschwanz (Sep 10, 2012)

I've been using 3 out front (30") and 9-10 on a 10" rear. recently bumped the rear weight up to 14oz and its holding a bit better in the garage for me (super short range). Ill get a better feel at league tuesday night. Just have to play with the combinations until it holds and shoots well.


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## Sasquech (Dec 15, 2014)

Weight on stabs slows down movement . Form eliminates it or reduces it beyond the point of detection


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