# Improvement to building the Third Hand Archery DIY Target.



## Room101 (Nov 25, 2018)

Are there plans for building this target online somewhere?


----------



## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

I haven't put them online but they are very simple. There are a set of instructions written in 6th grade language to make it easy in every target package.:secret:


----------



## Fish_monger (Nov 27, 2019)

That’s pretty cool. Do you have a link to the instructions?


----------



## survivalistd (Jun 26, 2017)

Love mine
Getting ready to paint it.









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## bayangler (Dec 7, 2014)

Thanks, these look really great!


----------



## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

Nice build Dave.:thumbs_up


----------



## usmc2220 (Sep 28, 2010)

Tag for later


----------



## survivalistd (Jun 26, 2017)

thirdhandman said:


> Nice build Dave.[emoji106]


Thanks I've been putting bondo on it to smooth it out before paint. Fun project..

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Outerlimits37 (Jul 6, 2019)

Do you think a silicone caulk would work better? It would keep a little flex in the mesh.




Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

I haven't tried silicon caulk. So I really can't answer. If you do, it would be great if you give us a follow up for future.:wink:


----------



## Holmboy11 (Dec 27, 2019)

Nice build,saving this for later.


----------



## cfassm (Apr 16, 2005)

Nice


----------



## TREVORR (Jan 5, 2020)

How much does a target like this weight? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

This one is only about 25 pounds because it is only about 6" deep and filled with dirty sheep wool.
Here is a couple pictures from today's lesson.


----------



## TREVORR (Jan 5, 2020)

Ok, so I can imagine a large one for a compound bow being at least 50 lbs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Stepping wolf (May 5, 2019)

It you want to improve your product, fold the outer edges over about an inch and a half and run a row or two of stitching to stiffen it. Then insert gromets every 6-8" along the folder over outer edge. This will allow the use of rope or bunggie to tension the fabric onto the frame, much like a trampoline is.


----------



## KineKilla (Jul 30, 2018)

Built the frame for mine today. It will be a 36" square that is 16" deep. Have to begin the process of collecting old clothes and linens to fill it now. Also have to order the skin faces.

I plan to stain the trim ring Ebony and leave the sides natural. Should be a nice contrast.

I think that using wood glue on the staples would permanently bond the face frame trim to the housing. That, in turn, would make replacing the skin a whole lot harder in the future. Silicone may be the better option.

For some reason, the pics are sideways.


----------



## KineKilla (Jul 30, 2018)

You all finding better success by cutting up the clothes before putting them in the box? Wondering if cutting them up adds to their compactability...


----------



## Wiscobowhunter7 (May 17, 2018)

Built mine a few weeks back to add to the basement range. Awesome product from third archery!


----------



## BCH1313 (Jan 30, 2020)

Great idea, except now I have to disassemble mine to do it!


----------



## 89_stang (Jul 31, 2015)

Watching


----------



## duckdog28 (Aug 18, 2011)

Great post, thanks for the idea.


----------



## xforce pse (Mar 9, 2011)

Tagged


----------



## BlanchardRvrBuc (Feb 18, 2020)

very helpful thank you....


----------



## 5ks (Feb 20, 2020)

What’s inside


----------



## theartboy (Feb 4, 2020)

thanks for the tip


----------



## WASHECA (Jan 3, 2012)

I didn't go thru all 46 pgs of the original target build, I just ripped out carpet and pad from our living rm. ive got gobs of padding that looks like recycled foam. has anyone used carpet pad for their filler??? I figured on ripping it up into little pcs 4" -8" chunks.


----------



## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

KineKilla said:


> You all finding better success by cutting up the clothes before putting them in the box?* Wondering if cutting them up adds to their compactability...


Cutting up the clothing is totally not necessary. Metal buttons off of jeans should be removed. Plastic buttons are fine because they will explode the first time they're hit. Zippers are okay because they separate one hit.
Enjoy!

Sent from my Pixel 3 using http://bit.ly/Archery_Talk_app


----------



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

My initial building of the target worked great! I wanted to try something so I removed all cloth from target, and when I restuffed I cut everything down to approximately washcloth size. (This took hours!) Packed tightly as I went and I do believe it stops better than before. How ever you stuff it, PACK IT TIGHT. Add some then use something to reach down it to tamp it down, (shovel handle, 2X4, something. Keep going till full and enjoy for years!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


----------



## lechwe (Jan 8, 2005)

What have you guys found to be the absolute best filler for these targets? Going to order the faces once I collect enough stuff to fill it.


----------



## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

lechwe said:


> What have you guys found to be the absolute best filler for these targets? Going to order the faces once I collect enough stuff to fill it.


There are a lot of great materials to use. I recently found a company that manufactures flags and banners. Their scrap works great. The best thing for most people that is readily available is old towels, sheets, linens, shirts, jeans, pants etc. Any old cloth that is *not knitted like sweaters* will work well.:secret:


----------



## WASHECA (Jan 3, 2012)

carpet pad will not work very well, wont stop the arrows very well. I ripped up padding for about 45 mins. and had the target box about 1/4 full. arrows would go thru front face. so I have a muck basket of clothes....lots to go


----------



## Aspencer1982 (Aug 28, 2019)

Wiscobowhunter7 said:


> Built mine a few weeks back to add to the basement range. Awesome product from third archery!


Nice basement range!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WASHECA (Jan 3, 2012)

mine is not near as pretty as most are, but its all outdoor wood plus I was lucky every thing was leftover stuff from other projects except for screws and the faces. I built mine sort of the same way KinneKilla built his. I can steer mine around the yard...after the muck dries up some. i'll have my wife sew up the sides of a tarp for a cover. so for now it will reside under the awning












PS thank you KinneKilla and third hand!!!


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Looks GREAT! Nice touch on the steering on the right.


----------



## awardwell1980 (Mar 5, 2020)

helpful info. Thanks


----------



## fuzzydoodle (Feb 18, 2020)

I've got some old wood laying around, thinking of making a target also, I like those faces. I've been hoarding all the shrink wrap that's been on our deliveries, would you guys think old clothes might be better? I got two boys that rapidly outgrow clothes, so both materials are easy enough to come by.


----------



## Jb122 (Sep 22, 2019)

Where can you buy the target faces i cant seem to find that anywhere


----------



## Rat (Jun 19, 2004)

Jb122 said:


> Where can you buy the target faces i cant seem to find that anywhere


48" blank target skins


----------



## WASHECA (Jan 3, 2012)

thirdhandarchery.com


----------



## jorman17 (Sep 18, 2018)

I use plastic and it works great.


----------



## Outerlimits37 (Jul 6, 2019)

jorman17 said:


> I use plastic and it works great.


Did you stuff your target with plastic?
Does it stick to your arrows?

I was looking to use the plastic wrap from pallets. I wasn't sure if it was going to be a problem.

Jake

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

Stepping wolf said:


> It you want to improve your product, fold the outer edges over about an inch and a half and run a row or two of stitching to stiffen it. Then insert gromets every 6-8" along the folder over outer edge. This will allow the use of rope or bunggie to tension the fabric onto the frame, much like a trampoline is.


Wolf: Just staple the skins to the frame every 2". They will have wrinkles from the folding when packaged. As soon as one puts in the filler they get tight as a drum without the extra effort or expense.:wink:


----------



## Stepping wolf (May 5, 2019)

thirdhandman said:


> Wolf: Just staple the skins to the frame every 2". They will have wrinkles from the folding when packaged. As soon as one puts in the filler they get tight as a drum without the extra effort or expense.:wink:


Stapling is how you currently appling the skin, the title of the thread is asking for improvements, hence my post.


----------



## hunterhewi (Jun 12, 2010)

Stepping wolf said:


> Stapling is how you currently appling the skin, the title of the thread is asking for improvements, hence my post.


You do realize how much added cost this would add to the skins? Probably dang near double the cost. Not really an improvement then is it?


----------



## Stepping wolf (May 5, 2019)

hunterhewi said:


> You do realize how much added cost this would add to the skins? Probably dang near double the cost. Not really an improvement then is it?


Improvements almost always cost more but lets look at you conclusion
Amazon list a pressing tool and 1500 pieces for about $50.00 dollars
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07D...5155272&sr=1-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

I don't know how many skins can be done but I find it unlikely that the cost of "Improved" skins would cost double the current style


----------



## hunterhewi (Jun 12, 2010)

Stepping wolf said:


> Improvements almost always cost more but lets look at you conclusion
> Amazon list a pressing tool and 1500 pieces for about $50.00 dollars
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07D...5155272&sr=1-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
> 
> I don't know how many skins can be done but I find it unlikely that the cost of "Improved" skins would cost double the current style


So if you wanted it done you could do it yourself right? The tool and inserts are only a fraction of the total extra cost equation. Who is going to put these in? Jim? Doubtful, he couldnt keep up. The company making the skins would have to do this and would have inputs into changing tooling to add these, or pay for manual labor to do these. Both which is not cheap or free


----------



## Stepping wolf (May 5, 2019)

hunterhewi said:


> So if you wanted it done you could do it yourself right? The tool and inserts are only a fraction of the total extra cost equation. Who is going to put these in? Jim? Doubtful, he couldnt keep up. The company making the skins would have to do this and would have inputs into changing tooling to add these, or pay for manual labor to do these. Both which is not cheap or free


What you say may or not be true but that will also be true for any improvements.
If he is not willing to make the improvements, and factor the costs in, then he shouldn't be wasting our time by asking for our input


----------



## IA Monsterbuck (Jul 18, 2006)

Honestly I wouldn't consider grommets and bungee cords an improvement but that's just my opinion.


----------



## Stepping wolf (May 5, 2019)

IA Monsterbuck said:


> Honestly I wouldn't consider grommets and bungee cords an improvement but that's just my opinion.


That is perfectly acceptable, I have both styles and prefer the grommets but my targets are 5' wide and 8' tall so the grommets make patching and adjusting tension less work.


----------



## ben280 (Mar 5, 2016)

Very cool build. Might have to try this someday


----------



## BHawkins74 (Jan 19, 2020)

That is perfectly acceptable, I have both styles and prefer the grommets but my targets are 5' wide and 8' tall so the grommets make patching and adjusting tension less work.[/QUOTE]


I would like more info as to what you are using for face material. I want one that is 4' X 8', and currently have one that I am trying to get filled that is closer to a 3' X 5'. I am a plumber by trade and have asked one of our new construction builders to stash back the scrap tyvek house wrap and let me get it for stuffing. I do have a couple of sheets of material that lumber is wrapped in when it's delivered. Picked that up from a lumber yard we did some service work at.


----------



## Stepping wolf (May 5, 2019)

BHawkins74 said:


> That is perfectly acceptable, I have both styles and prefer the grommets but my targets are 5' wide and 8' tall so the grommets make patching and adjusting tension less work.



I would like more info as to what you are using for face material. I want one that is 4' X 8', and currently have one that I am trying to get filled that is closer to a 3' X 5'. I am a plumber by trade and have asked one of our new construction builders to stash back the scrap tyvek house wrap and let me get it for stuffing. I do have a couple of sheets of material that lumber is wrapped in when it's delivered. Picked that up from a lumber yard we did some service work at.[/QUOTE]

The following is from 2013. This is now the base which can be patched with Tyvek tape and when it gets to beat up, I just cover it with a new face with grommets built in. Securing it with cord to tension it.


----------



## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

TREVORR said:


> Ok, so I can imagine a large one for a compound bow being at least 50 lbs
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If you use a treated 2x12 for the frame the frame itself will be over 50 pounds. then add at least another 50 pounds for clothing. The good news is it will not be walking off very easily. Put it in place and leave it or put it on wheels.


----------



## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

Stepping wolf said:


> That is perfectly acceptable, I have both styles and prefer the grommets but my targets are 5' wide and 8' tall so the grommets make patching and *adjusting tension less work*.


Since the largest target we make is 4' square, there is absolutely no issue with tension. We simply staple the skins on every 2 inches. When ya put the rags in it makes it flat and tight as a drum. Adding stitching which is cutting down the overall size of the target and adding grommets adding cost to the target, doesn't, in my opinion, improve our target. It just makes it more expensive. We don't need to patch them. We just take the trim off, remove the old skin and put a new one on when needed. So far in 10 years, we've replaced ours once. Sorry but I really don't see where adding all these cost would save anything.:secret:


----------



## Stepping wolf (May 5, 2019)

thirdhandman said:


> Since the largest target we make is 4' square, there is absolutely no issue with tension. We simply staple the skins on every 2 inches. When ya put the rags in it makes it flat and tight as a drum. Adding stitching which is cutting down the overall size of the target and adding grommets adding cost to the target, doesn't, in my opinion, improve our target. It just makes it more expensive. We don't need to patch them. We just take the trim off, remove the old skin and put a new one on when needed. So far in 10 years, we've replaced ours once. Sorry but I really don't see where adding all these cost would save anything.:secret:


The title of your tread is asking for improvements, I offered some Weather you wish to implement any that is your call. 
By the nature of adding improvements, you are adding cost so that excuse is a non starter. Secondarily, making a judgement without actually testing, leads me to conclude that your thread was for the purpose of exposure and not looking for ideas. This is fine but in the future I will know not to respond to your comments


----------



## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

Steppingwolf: I think there is a misunderstanding about the title. I was stating that I found a better way to keep the target from fraying around the edges. Was not trying to waste your time or looking for more ideas. sorry if you read it that way.

Making a judgement without trying your idea. On a 4'x4' target there is no issue of getting the skins tight. So I would be adding cost to fix a non issue.

You are absolutely correct in the fact that I was looking for exposure. I wanted people who buy our target skins to know how to make them look better and last longer.:darkbeer:


----------



## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

KineKilla said:


> Built the frame for mine today. It will be a 36" square that is 16" deep. Have to begin the process of collecting old clothes and linens to fill it now. Also have to order the skin faces.
> 
> I plan to stain the trim ring Ebony and leave the sides natural. Should be a nice contrast.
> 
> ...


If you put the wood glue over the skin and then put on the trim, it isn't a problem at all. If you have people shooting like we do, the trim will be all shot up by the time the skins need to be replaced. Once the trim is taken off the skins will pull off the target fairly easily as just the staples will be holding them on.


----------



## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

Stepping wolf said:


> Improvements almost always cost more but lets look at you conclusion
> Amazon list a pressing tool and 1500 pieces for about $50.00 dollars
> Amazon.com: 8MILELAKE 3 Die Hand Press Grommet Machine #0#2#4 w/ 1500Pcs Grommets & Eyelet Feeding & Rolling Base: Home Improvement
> 
> I don't know how many skins can be done but I find it unlikely that the cost of "Improved" skins would cost double the current style


Respectfully disagree. Even if we took the cost of the grommets and tool to install them out of the equation, it would more than double the cost of the labor to produce it. We currently take a 4' spool that starts out at over 1,000 pounds and cut it with a hot knife. This would also cause the end-user more trouble installing the face with no added benefit as the skins are tight as a drum when filled with rags.
All I was looking for in this thread is to show how to help some keep the target from fraying buy adding a bead of glue.


----------



## ryan b. (Sep 1, 2005)

Rolling and coiling material makes it more dense without so much work packing it in. I put a 18” square “block” target in the center of my filler to make it flat and more durable. It wasn’t! I’m removing the foam and going back to cotton sheets etc. easier arrow removal and more stopping power. Clothes are better than plastic. Wayyyy Easier arrow removal and no sticky crud on arrows as some plastics melt from friction when packed tight.


----------



## ryan b. (Sep 1, 2005)

It took me 2 years to shoot out middle of my skin.


----------



## Shane Dean (Apr 23, 2021)

Room101 said:


> Are there plans for building this target online somewhere?


The target faces come with instructions as well, just add in the improvements found on this thread and you will be all set.


----------



## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

We are now cutting our own fabric so we can do custom orders. A set of 4'x4' is $35. Just add $4 per foot for anything longer than 4'x4'.


----------

