# French tuning / BH tuning



## lenny288 (Sep 16, 2005)

Where does BH tuning fit into the french tuning method? Should BH tuning be done before or after?


----------



## loujo61 (Apr 29, 2005)

Walk back or french tune a field point the same weight as your broadhead first, this will give you a good starting point for your broadhead tuning. If your broadhead tipped arrows don't tune well after you center tune your bow with field points there may be other problems like cam timing, fletching contact, incorrect arrow spine or nock height issues.


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

lenny288 said:


> Where does BH tuning fit into the french tuning method? Should BH tuning be done before or after?


Start with field points.
The idea is to get the arrow rest center shot as good as you can get it
(very close ball park),
and then complete your tuning with broadheads.


You can use paper tuning to figure out your arrow rest centershot.

You can use walk back tuning to figure out your centershot.

You can use French Tuning to figure out your centershot.

You can use the "eyeball" method, and get er close to figure out your centershot.

You can use what I call MODIFIED French Tuning to figure out your centershot.


Just shoot at a string with a weight on the end
at 3 feet or 6 feet, something close,
and very comfortable.

The goal is to keep adjusting your sight pin a tiny bit left
or a tiny bit right,
until your field point, splits the string in half.

Take your time and try to RELAX into a steady hold.
You WILL split the string in half, when you adjust your sight pin
a tiny bit left or right, e v e n t u a l l y.


Then,
pick a longer distance, whatever is available to you.
30 feet would be great.
20 feet works, if that's all you have.
Just any distance longer than your short distance.

Fire a single arrow, if you are in danger of a robin hood.
If you are not in danger of a robin hood, at your "longer distance",
then by all means,
shoot a 2 arrow or 3 arrow group........


Here is a QUOTE from axp117crow


here is my [*axp117crow*] FINISHED GROUP AT 10 yards












FINISHED GROUP AT 3yds










i [*axp117crow*]split the string once(most of the time the arrow just pushed it into the target). i have to get longer distances to make sure i'm perfectly dialed in, there may be some tiny adjustments still needed. but this works really good if you have limited space. also, it worked better for me than paper and walkback tuning 


So, folks,
no need to be an expert shot.

Yup,
do MODIFIED FRENCH TUNING works best indoors.

Just a short, really short distance.

Just a longer, whatever available space you have, distance.









DETAILED instructions, below.

Here is another method,
especially when you don't have a lot of space.


I call it Modified French Tuning.
Only need 3 yards in front of the target,
and
only need 10 yards in front of the target.



*Modified French Tuning.*



Another way to do this,
is what I call "Modified French Tuning".

You only need 10 yards of space in front of the target to do this.




John Dudley talks about the French Tuning method on his website.

I have modified his instructions to make it simpler,
and my "short version" will help you
set the left to right position for your pins (windage),
and
help you set the left to right position of your arrow rest (centershot).

When you are done with my "short version" of French Tuning,
then your arrow will be firing straight,
at short, medium and long distances.

You will need to go to the practice range
to figure out how adjust the vertical spacing of your pins,
for 20 yds and 30 yds, etc.


You need 10 yards of space to do this.

Just remember...
at 3 yards,
adjust the sight pin to the left or to the right.

Keep adjusting the sight pin left or right,
until you can hit the string with the weight on the bottom,
where the string splits the x-ring down the middle.

Take your time,
and keep fine tuning, until the field point
nails the string right on top.



At 10 yards,
shoot a 3 arrow group. Size of the group is not important.
Just keep adjusting the arrow rest to the left or to the right,
until the hanging string splits your 3-arrow group in half.


Now, go back to 3 yards,
and double check that the field point still nails the hanging string
right on top of it. You might need to make
a tiny tiny adjustment.

Then, go back to 10 yards,
and double check the position of the arrow rest.

You get the idea.




Let's tackle this one step at a time.

First,
let's tackle the centershot for the arrow rest
and
find the correct windage (left-right adjustment) for the pins.


I have a simplified version of something called French Tuning.
Don't worry about what this method is called.

Very simple to do.











Hang a target face so the bullseye is at your shoulder height.

Put a nail at the top,
and hang a weighted string,
so the string splits the bullseye in half.

Now,
start at 9 feet. Yup, just 9 feet.

Fire a field point arrow.

If the field point arrow misses the string to the left,
then move all the pins to the left. (Adjust the entire sight housing).

If the field point arrow misses to the string to the right,
then move all the pins to the right.

The goal is to nail the string perfectly.
You want your field point arrow to be exactly below the center
of the bullseye.



Now,
go back to 10 yards.

Fire a 3 arrow group.

Find the center of the arrow group.

If the center of the arrow group is to the left of the string,
move the arrow rest to the right.

If the center of the arrow group is to the right of the string,
move the arrow rest to the left.

Goal is to have the hanging string split your arrow group in half.



Now,
go back to 9 feet.

Fire a field point arrow.

If the field point arrow does not exactly nail the hanging string,
then adjust all of your pins to the left or right,
until the arrow is dead center under the exact center of the bullseye.


Now,
go back to 10 yards.

Adjust the arrow rest in tiny amounts,
until the hanging string splits your 3 arrow group in half.


When you are done,
you can fire a field point arrow from 9 feet
and it will be exactly underneath the center of the bullseye.

Your 3 arrow group from 10 yards,
will also be split in half by the hanging string.



Now, your centershot (arrow rest)
and your windage (pins) will be perfect.


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

When you have your field points shooting "straight",
after whatever method you used to figure out the arrow rest
horizontal position....

then
go to this thread for broadhead tuning.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=539460&referrerid=22477


----------



## lenny288 (Sep 16, 2005)

Thanks! This really helps.
Just got the bow back from having both limbs replaced and new string and cable. Both limbs split.
I am trying to get it back to shooting right before turkey season starts in 2 weeks.


----------



## axp117crow (Dec 11, 2006)

i did the modified french tuning to get really close, as explained my nuts&bolts. then when i bh tuned, it only took 2 really minor rest movements to get it dead on with my fp's. i still have to shoot past 10 yeds though, i've been getting home after dark. but i know i'm really close, if not dead on, right now. the modified french tuning got me really close.


----------



## kzz1king (Jan 21, 2007)

I have walk backed with god results but I really like this for when I cant shot outside. Nuts&Bolts, you mentioned moving string loop to try to tighten groups. Can I use the top limb to fine tune this? My rest is difficult to adjust in very small increments. If I stay within a full turn or less? Any downsides to this? Thanks.
PS I really enjoy your posts, makes me a better shooter/tuner.


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

kzz1king said:


> I have walk backed with god results but I really like this for when I cant shot outside. Nuts&Bolts, you mentioned moving string loop to try to tighten groups. Can I use the top limb to fine tune this? My rest is difficult to adjust in very small increments. If I stay within a full turn or less? Any downsides to this? Thanks.
> PS I really enjoy your posts, makes me a better shooter/tuner.




The cam timing is related to how much bowstring
is above the d-loop
and how much bowstring is below the d-loop.

So, if you play with the d-loop position
(a bit higher up the bowstring
or a bit lower down the bowstring),
you might help get your groups a touch tighter.

Just keep track of what you did,
and see if you get better arrow groups.



Play with draw weight.
Try 1 turn less on both limb bolts.
See what happens. Just write down what you did,
so you can go back to the original setting.

1 turn less on both limb bolts
usually will help tighten up arrow groups.

Usually, but not always.


I was working with a fellow
(Hoyt ProElite and X10 ProTour arrows).

For him,
the best groups came at 20 yards
with 1 extra turn on both limb bolts (more draw weight).



So, play with your draw weight a little bit.


Play with the position of your d-loop
a tiny bit higher than usual,
and see what happens.


If you use tied nocking points,
like in Deezlin's excellent picture thread,
then moving the nocking points up 1 or 2 complete turns
is an easy way to experiment
with d-loop position on your bowstring.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=375122&referrerid=22477


If you do use Deezlin's method,
make sure you leave maybe 1/32nd between the nock
and the top tied nocking point (just a tiny gap).

Guarantees zero nock pinch.


----------



## kzz1king (Jan 21, 2007)

I cannot move my loop or the tied in knocks very easily. That is why I was wondering if using the rest adjustment or moving the nock point up or down by loosening or tightening the limb would work. I know these change nock height but not the amount of string above or below the loop. Thanks


----------



## kzz1king (Jan 21, 2007)

I forgot to add that I am asking about a single cam.


----------



## Hoyt Thompson (May 7, 2007)

What you are talking about is "tiller tuning" and it does help some and others it does not. Just really depends on your form. Dloop tuning does not move your nocking point if you have used tied or brass nocks only tunes the string position above and below the dloop. 
If you want try the tiller tuning first seeing moving your dloop seems to be a task you are not looking forward to, I would try that and see if your groups tighten. I never use more than 1/2 turn in either direction. This could take a week or two of shooting to get an average group one way versus an average group another.
IMO dloop tuning is only going to tighten your groups maybe a 1/4" but others feel that it is essential to there tuning ritual. You will just have to try it to see if it helps you. Most find if they have the bottom knot further from the nock that it helps align the release directly behind the arrow nock giving more horizontal travel of the arrow seeing it was release from directly behind it.


----------



## lenny288 (Sep 16, 2005)

Nuts&Bolts
Did the French tuning today . . . :cheers:
Thank you once again for your willingness to share your knowledge. :thumb:

I was able to center tune using this method faster than using the walk back tuning. Shot the last 3 series 3 yd, 10 yd, and 20 yd, all 3 was in line! I've never been able to do this using the other method. I'll be replacing 2 knocks:wink:, hope the shafts didn't split :nervous s. I'll be checking that more closely tonight.

I think next time, (wih my kids bow) I will put 3 lines and have them shoot the 3 arrows at seperate lines. Would this show the same results?


----------



## M Kelly (Jul 18, 2007)

Just wanted to say thanks to NUTS&BOLTS for the Modified French Tuning method, perfect for setting up in my basement. I could dial it in pretty close, but this was a much better method and only took a few minutes to set up.
Thanks Again 
Mike


----------



## Creefer17 (Oct 24, 2013)

Marked


----------



## ermont (Aug 26, 2011)

I need to do this.


----------



## I like Meat (Feb 14, 2009)

Ive done this for many years and it works....once in a blue moon I may have to finalized with BH tuning(Razortricks)...... I have not paper tuned in as many years once I started using this method.....My FP's/Tricks and Steelhead XL's all hit the same POI out to 50yds....


----------



## jason.sp (May 5, 2012)

How will this help center shot this method say nothing about adjusting the arrow rest and this method seems no different then reg bow sighting I guess I do t get it


----------



## amcmullen (Oct 11, 2012)

This method saved my but when I spent all sorts of time trying to tune my bow last year. I spent hours chasing BH's with FPs until I was ready to throw the bow in the trash. Found this method and it worked perfectly! BH tuned to 30 yds in ten minutes!


----------



## poolecw (Jul 10, 2015)

saved


----------



## 6APPEAL (Sep 1, 2009)

marked


----------



## dewijw01 (Aug 17, 2010)

I can see how this might help with aligning pins but it seems much less productive than paper tuning. A tear tells me a lot more about arrow flight and if my bow is actually tuned (nock height, rest height/windage, cam lean/timing). I would use this method after paper tuning and bare shafts, can't say I would rely on it as my only means of tuning. I may try double checking my pins with this method


----------



## NUTZJ98 (Aug 22, 2015)

We were going to build a paper tuning rig to check tune on a couple bows. Until I recently read an article on French Tuning. After some recent work and upgrades on my bow I gave it a good eyeball check. Shot a few times and could tell arrows were not landing square even though the pins were decently accurate. Then I proceeded to work through French Tuning which took me just a 20 minutes as I didn't have many adjustments to make. I was amazed at the difference and how quickly my bow was tuned. I have never had better results even with paper. 

I will say you need to be a good steady shot. If you're not able to stick that arrow in a piece of string at least to 8yds then stick to paper. But even if you're not perfect you could use three shot groups to notice a difference but aim up and down the string slightly to avoid split arrows.

I'm sold though. I can't imagine paper doing any better. Actually since paper can tear and rip a little more or less here or there, I can't see how it would be better.

To each their own but I highly recommend trying this and its a must have skill for when you're away from your paper or helping a friend.


----------



## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

Hey Alan: Have you ever tried txcookie's Stagger back method? :set1_rolf2::jksign: Glad to see ya back.


----------



## BDHUNTR (May 24, 2003)

I've paper tuned and walk back tuned, but decided to give this method a try as I knew my tuning was off a bit. Wow! Took me two hours (sweating profusely I might add). But I made many, many tiny adjustments at 3 and 10 yards until I was splitting the string at 3 and then 10 yards, and then a tiny tweak left back at 3 yards. Shot a few arrows at 20 but by then I was toast. Need to shoot tomorrow but I'd say it looks like it's spot on. 

If good, I will follow the broadhead tuning Saturday with 100 grain Wasp Boss Bullets.


----------



## zotparkerm (Oct 2, 2015)

Tag for referral


----------

