# Hoyt left tear



## oxberger (Nov 18, 2008)

My first time working on a bow. I have a 2012 Vector Turbo 30" dl 70lb. I am putting a Whisker Biscuit on it and have set the center shot to 13/16 to the center of the arrow and running the arrow through the berger hole. I am shooting a 300 FMJ dangerous game with 100 grain point. 

D loop is set to 90 degrees. I have set the cam timing so they are hitting at the same time.

When I shoot through paper I get a straight left tear. I tried moving the rest to the right but ran out of room. Then I tried yoke tuning (I have no idea what I am doing when it comes to that) it helped some but my cam lean was so bad I was worried it would blow up. 

I have a Spyder Turbo and I shot the arrow a few times through paper and got perfect bullet holes each time, so I feel I have the right arrow.

How do you correct a left tear? The first tear I get is about 3 inches. When you yoke tune, how many twists do you do, do you put twists in one side and take out of the other? Is there any videos showing any of this?


----------



## nick060200 (Jul 5, 2010)

i have always had a hard time getting a good tear with fletched arrows out of my biscuit. take the vanes off and shoot bareshafts thru paper and and see whats really going on. i can always get BS bullets with my biscuit. once that shaft is coming off the string like a lazer beam your fletched shafts will be just about perfect if not already perfect.


----------



## nick060200 (Jul 5, 2010)

and yes a left tear would require a twist in the left yoke. if you do 2 twist in one yoke take out 1 in the other.


----------



## nick060200 (Jul 5, 2010)

last thing, if your shooting a biscuit its soo worth it to have the one that has the micro adjust. i just bought a 2nd one off amazon for $63 it came with the small biscuit which worked out perfect cause i shoot rampage arrows.


----------



## oxberger (Nov 18, 2008)

I got a biscuit with the micro adjust, I was afraid of putting or taking out too many twist in the yokes. Couldn't find anything online saying which way was correct. I grossly under-estimated how easy it would be to tune a bow. I had no idea Hoyts need a certain amount of cam lean at rest. Never really paid attention to it before.

Where / how did all of you learn how to work on your rigs? I am going to talk to my pro shop and see if I can get some lessons.


----------



## nick060200 (Jul 5, 2010)

This website is where i learned. There is nothing you cant find an answer to on this site. What i would do is set your center shot. Start with about 8-10twists in the right yoke and 4-6 in the left if your a right hand shooter. 
Than shoot a bareshaft thru paper and post a pic. I can help from there. Shoot the same bare shaft about 5-10 times. You want to keep getting the same tear. If you are getting different tears your form needs work.


----------



## TMan51 (Jan 25, 2004)

oxberger said:


> I grossly under-estimated how easy it would be to tune a bow. I had no idea Hoyts need a certain amount of cam lean at rest.


Tuning can have it's moments, and that is a fact. More that one bow has been supertuned around a tree, in a moment of frustration.

For many years I assisted with tuning clinics at a couple clubs. Many people had unrealistic expectations for the WB rests, as they are not really the best for the fastest combinations. Consider the amount of engineering that has gone into drop away/zero contact rests. Prong rests, which I now use exclusively, drop out for me at about 280fps with a fixed blade head, drop away rests add about 20fps-30fps to that. With a WB, which I used on a couple bows, flight became erratic and challenging at 250fps-260fps. Shooting with fingers, those numbers take another hit.

If flight is OK, the tear may not be a big issue with a low profile mechanical, going at a moderate speed. With a fixed blade head, it may be something that just doesn't happen for you.


----------



## oxberger (Nov 18, 2008)

Thanks for the input, I broke down and took it into a pro-shop. I recently moved away from my shop (the reason I want to start working on my own stuff). He tuned it and he shot it through paper at about 3ft and got a bullet hole. He is an older person and couldn't shoot it at 70 lbs. I did not have a chance to shoot it at paper while I was there.

I come home and crank it up to 70 and shoot at about 12ft with bare and fletched arrows. I get the same tear I had before with both arrows, I move up to 3ft and shoot bullet holes. 

Not sure what to think, when I was at the shop the owner watched from behind to see if the arrow is flying straight. He claims it was.

I am thinking about doing some walk back tuning and see what happens.


----------



## oxberger (Nov 18, 2008)

Also, I should say with my Spyder Turbo, I get bullet holes at 12ft with these arrows.


----------



## Elipapa (Apr 16, 2011)

oxberger said:


> My first time working on a bow. I have a 2012 Vector Turbo 30" dl 70lb. I am putting a Whisker Biscuit on it and have set the center shot to 13/16 to the center of the arrow and running the arrow through the berger hole. I am shooting a 300 FMJ dangerous game with 100 grain point.
> 
> D loop is set to 90 degrees. I have set the cam timing so they are hitting at the same time.
> 
> ...


 Make sure there is no other disturbance in the arrows path, e.g. cables. Shoot the arrow cock vane up, the black whiskers are more dense to hold the weight of the arrow so the cock vane needs to be in the up right position. Do you have a draw board? if not, have someone draw it for you and ensure there is no excessive cam lean while in full draw. Cam lean at brace height shouldn't be a worry. To yoke tune twist the yoke leg that is the direction of the tear (left tear, left yoke, add two twists). before I yoke tune I'll move the rest until I run into an issue like you have where I cant move it anymore. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ur3hZ4wiMFs


----------



## TMan51 (Jan 25, 2004)

oxberger said:


> He tuned it and he shot it through paper at about 3ft and got a bullet hole.
> 
> I am thinking about doing some walk back tuning and see what happens.


3' really tells you very little to notta. In fact, a bullet hole at any single distance can be misleading as it may be at a midpoint in the oscillation cycle, and you just happen to be standing at the right distance. I've done that a couple times myself.

FWIW, I start with everything set to spec, (setup), get the cams timed and synched, and the centershot correct, with the sight, shaft on the rest, and riser center of mass in the same plane. I always get rid of cam lean last. Then, I start tuning, and making any adjustments needed to get things flying correctly. I never bother with a bare shaft past 30', as I get more reliable input, and results using a broadhead and BH tuning.

It really doesn't matter what technique you use, paper, French/walk back, bare shaft, etc. At times I shift from any one of those to another method, and sometimes I check results with a second technique.

Doing your own work is a great idea. It works best when you have more than one bow, (so you can still shoot or hunt if you get caught in the learning curve). Take pictures and keep notes of any/all adjustments. *Remembering* what you did yesterday, or even 20 minutes ago can cause problems.


----------



## oxberger (Nov 18, 2008)

Thanks for all the input so far ... keep it coming.


----------

