# How Do You Measure Nock Height?



## Sauk Mountain (Aug 3, 2015)

There may be an official way, but I have always just measured to the center of the nock.


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

I reference nocking point as the distance between the bottom of your top nocking point to a line perpendicular to the string and flush with the shelf or rest. There is no standard, it helps to specify the method and datum you use.

Another common one is the distance between the top of the nock and the bottom of the top nocking point. I don't use this one since there is no standard for nock diameter vs. arrow diameter so to be accurate you would also have to specify even more data.

All that matters is you have a standard that works for yourself.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

e - 

I don't "measure" it. 
I just eye ball it to about 1/8" above perpendicular and then adjust during tuning.
I only use a bow square for nocking points when making a new string, so it's in the same place as the old one, but still do a tuning sanity check.

Viper1 out.


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## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

Viper1 said:


> e -
> 
> I don't "measure" it.
> I just eye ball it to about 1/8" above perpendicular and then adjust during tuning.
> ...


I will eyeball it until I get it where I want it. Then I will check it with a square. That way I can easily check and make sure it has not moved.


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## fallhunt (Aug 2, 2013)

Heed the expert advice from those above like Viper1 and the others who have already posted before me.

My two-cents are just blabbing for fun.

I expect protests and shaming - LOL.

Unless there is observable arrow flight porpoising or tuning indicates that the string knocking point needs adjustment, I have considered the knocking point on the string to be more for consistency such as choosing my draw-to anchor points on my face.

I shoot split-finger with one nocking point on the string. I place the arrow nock under the string nocking point.

One time I could not find my bow square after getting a new string for a longbow. I laid the arrow on the arrow shelf of the bow plus snapped the arrow nock onto the string. I attempted making the arrow as perpendicular to the string as possible by eyeballing it. I then squeezed the brass nock-set on the string just above the arrow nock. I intended to do it “right” later. It shot so well for me at 20 yards and less that I never changed it.


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

The only reason to measure your nocking point is so you know where it is after you have tuned your bow/arrow setup. The only time I measure mine is when some thread comes up where it might be applicable. 

Like Viper said, your true nocking point is developed through tuning.


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## spartaman64 (Jul 5, 2016)

I just use a piece of paper or something to make sure the arrow is nocked to the string at a right angle


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## Hank D Thoreau (Dec 9, 2008)

I believe that the correct way is from the line of the rest or shelf, to the bottom of the upper nock locator. I am interested in nock height since I stringwalk. It helps me keep track of where I am during my tuning and optimizing process. I record it in my notebook. Stringwalking requires compromise, and feel. I cannot just set the bow up and shoot some bareshafts. I have to out and shoot the course, testing all my crawls. I may change my nock points after a few rounds to see how the feel of my crawls change, for the better or worse. And when I am done testing, I want to be able to return to the setting that worked the best.

Here is a pretty video that shows it really well. Go to about the 2:10 mark on the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tj_7_K2dOTQ


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## emrah (Aug 28, 2012)

Thanks guys. I'm asking so I can make the right, repeatable adjustments to my Sage. I'm told 5/8" to 3/4" range is what most people end up with. That way my nock height measurement is the same as "your" nock height measurement.


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## Hank D Thoreau (Dec 9, 2008)

I added a link to a video in my post above. You probably missed it since you posted before I finished editing.

I am pretty close to your range. I shoot 70 and 72 inch bows and generally fall from 3/4 to 13/16. I may be higher than some folks since my bows and draw length are longer than many of the trad guys.


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## emrah (Aug 28, 2012)

Thanks Hank. That was helpful.

Emrah 


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## Arcus (Jul 7, 2005)

Hank D Thoreau said:


> I believe that the correct way is from the line of the rest or shelf, to the bottom of the upper nock locator.


But, doesn't that ignore the diameter of the nock? For example, if your nock diameter is 1/4 inch, and the distance from the line of the rest to the bottom of the upper nock locator is 1/4 inch, then your nock height would be zero, no?


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Guys - 

You are really over thin king this. Set it so the arrow is above perpendicular to the string. When you're ready, start tuning.

Saying it should be in a specific position is really pretty meaningless, just too many bow to bow variations, and the don't forget the user, he/she is a factor too.

Viper1 out.


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

Arcus said:


> But, doesn't that ignore the diameter of the nock? For example, if your nock diameter is 1/4 inch, and the distance from the line of the rest to the bottom of the upper nock locator is 1/4 inch, then your nock height would be zero, no?


That's the problem, people are talking about different things. Some are talking about nock position, some are talking about nocking _point_ position. That's why it's important to specify a method and datum with any specific value.

Viper is correct, the actual measure is really only pertinent to your own personal records so you can put it back in the same place if you ever need to, or if you change strings. Even then you will want to confirm it with a few bare shafts. 

Sometimes people will ask for starting points and responders will throw out a number for them. All fine and good since you need to start somewhere and a split finger shooter will probably start somewhere other than a three under shooter, but it's still only a starting point for the questioner.


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

For the initial nock location on a new bow (or in disgust with an existing bow often due to a change in technique or arrows), I don't use a permanent nock at first. Too much trouble to repeatedly install and change, and mentally tends to lock you in due to the trouble of performing a repeated permanent install. This begets the dreaded overthinking. 

I cut a thin strip of masking or painters tape and wrap it about the serving as a temporary nock. I have a default starting height for this process that brings the nock a bit higher than perpendicular to the string. I use my bow square to obtain this default. Doesn't matter how the math is performed for nock placement so long as it is consistent and repeatable within one's own system of measurement.

One shot from the initial setup can often be all it takes to to either smile or frown upon observing the arrow's flight and strike. If the result is horrific, a simple removal of the tape and reapplication of a fresh strip in a systematically-placed new location (this may become progressive up or down the ladder in 1/16" or 1/8" increments) takes but a moment to perform. A few fresh shots and observations follow. I keep stripping and ripping until the arrow's flight and strike both seem stable. This is tuning, though in a more casual, feathered, and immediate protocol as opposed to the comparative processes of formal bare shaft tuning. I can roll through an inch of multiple and varying nock placements within a very short session and, somewhere in there, find a pretty decent result fairly quickly. Refinement of that initial sweet spot can then follow as desired.

I'll then live with the tape on the best performing nock location (sometimes for months when feeling a bit lazy!) until satisfied, and then apply a permanent nock based upon the successful measurements in my written notes for that particular bow.

Making any process simple, fast, and no-brainer allows for the unbridled freedom to quickly explore options and results without mentally resisting working outside of an existing setup due to inconvenience.

Hope this adds to the mix.


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## Arcus (Jul 7, 2005)

Viper1 said:


> You are really over thin king this. Set it so the arrow is above perpendicular to the string. When you're ready, start tuning.
> 
> Saying it should be in a specific position is really pretty meaningless, just too many bow to bow variations, and the don't forget the user, he/she is a factor too.


Don't know if you're referring to my comment, but I'm not overthinking this. I agree with you about establishing your own nock point, but when someone says that his nock point is 1/2 inch, I'm curious about how they're measuring it, which is not the same thing as specifying what a nock height should be for anyone else.



Easykeeper said:


> That's the problem, people are talking about different things. Some are talking about nock position, some are talking about nocking _point_ position. That's why it's important to specify a method and datum with any specific value.


Yup. Hence, my question.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Arcus - 

Not at all, more of a general comment. 

It's just that people seem to want had numbers for things that are variables, and even if they don't some one will be more than happy to tell them what works for them. 

For a new shooter, almost any of the above advice is fine, as long as the arrows are porpoising down range.
Once tuning begins, then the width of a string of serving can be noticeable. 

Viper1 out.


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## emrah (Aug 28, 2012)

So I've actually measured it and I'm almost 7/8" to the bottom of the brass nock. My arrows seem to be flying real good here without an up or down kick as it leaves the shelf. I think I'm going to leave it. 

I guess my original post was to help me confirm that my setup wasn't way out in left field when compared to others.

Emrah 


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

If you are shooting three under, especially if your bow is tillered for split finger shooting, 7/8" is on the high side but not unreasonable. I wouldn't change anything if your arrows are flying well. 

I like to use two nocking points though, one above and one under to eliminate any possibility of movement on the string after release. If you are a hunter the second nocking point is nice insurance that your arrow will be where you want it, especially if you nock an arrow and hang your bow while you wait. I would tie in the bottom nocking point though to reduce wear on your tab from a brass one.


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