# Any ideas for DIY 3d target stand?



## Maui Rhino (Mar 13, 2010)

I take an 8 foot long 4x4 and cut it so I have two 4 foot long pieces. Drill a hole through in the middle of each one the size of your rebar or the pins that come with the 3-d target. Hammer them into the hole so that it sticks out 3 or 4 inches on the opposite side. This short pin sticks into the ground nicely, making sure the target doesn't move, and the longer side sticks up into the air for you to set your target on. I suppose you could make some sort of center bar as in your picture, but you don't need to. The weight and length of the 4x4's keep the target in place. Not haveing them locked into an H-shape is nice because I can angle one or both supports if needed because of uneven ground. Moving it or taking it out to another range is simple because nothing is staked into the ground, and the 4x4's don't take up a lot of space in the back of a truck.


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## eflanders (Dec 8, 2007)

For indoor use I have done like Maui Rhino but I use an 8' long 2" x 4" cut in half. I then took a 6" long hex head 1/2" bolt and secured it to the middle of each 2" x 4". Some guys I know use a piece of drilled angle flat iron in between the 2" X 4" pices to maintain the distance between them. You could drill some holes in the ends of each board if you wanted for stakes to go through for out door use.


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## kc hay seed (Jul 12, 2007)

for my indoor deer i placed a2x4 on edge,it is 34" and screwed 2-2x4s 30" long on it flat ways. then i measured the legs of the deer and drilled 2-3/8" holes for the allthread rod to stick through and on the back side of deer i have a block foam that is 42"x22"x19". i am on my second mid section and it has not moved as yet.


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## Spurhunter (Dec 8, 2008)

I used scrap 2X4s, two around 2' and one around 3' nailed on top of them to form the "I". Next I cut the heads from 1/2X7 1/2" bolts with long threaded sections (approx 3"). Then drilled two 9/16" holes in the longer 2X4 the distance of each of my 3d target leg spacings. Finally I used two 1/2" nuts and two flat washers to secure the bolts to the 2X4 frame. Works fine for my glendale buck, big boar and yote targets, steady and stabile. Chunk the rebar stakes.


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## Lerie (Aug 23, 2002)

If you want the best and most durable stand for your 3D targets, this is what I use and highly reccomend. First, you need to acquire the metal plates that railroad track fits on and is mounted to railroad ties. Center drill a 1/2 inch hole thru the plate. Then drive a 18 inch piece of 1/2 inch rebar into the hole until its flush with the far side of your hole. For added durability you could weld it after drving it in. Use a 12 inch piece of rebar for smaller targets. For outside targets I drive the rebar from the flat side of the plate so that the ridges(guide) for the railroad track contact the ground. For indoor targets, I drive from the opposite side so that its flat on a floor. Even went as far as applying felt to the bottom of the plate to protect wooden floors. Given the time will take some pics and post later.


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## gf319804 (Feb 6, 2008)

I built my 3D Target Frame with the thought of it being mobile. As you can see in the picture, it is a simple 4x4" H-Frame. I drilled holes and ran rebar through the 4x4 to slide the target's legs over, and added wheels and a rope so I could haul it around wherever I go! In the summer months, I set up a stand in the edge of the yard and shoot. When I retrieve arrows (sometimes the wife will do it for me if I'm lucky), I move the target around and shoot at different distances and angles. I'd say total I have $20 in this stand, and it works out perfect for me!


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