# Printable Templates?



## dstubb (Apr 25, 2010)

Does anyone have any links to bow building sites that offer printable bow templates?


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## dstubb (Apr 25, 2010)

I drew up these templates today. Since i can only print on 8.5 x 11 paper i had to cut the drawing into sections. I am new to traditional archery but very skilled in woodworking, and am looking for a new winter project. I have spent weeks online studying bow building techniques and reading about different wood types ect.... The problem that i am facing is that i am not exactly sure what size bow to build for myself. Hopefully some of you can shed some light. My draw length on my compound is 28 inches, and it's set at 65lbs. I am planning to hunt with the bow that i build so i am thinking 55lbs would be a good draw weight to shoot for. My confusion is with the actual length of the bow. I have read mixed advice and am not sure what i need. The drawings i made are for a 66 inch bow.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Ok. First, you don't need limb shape templates. All you need for those is a yardstick. I'm assuming you're building a fiberglass laminated bow, not a selfbow, because a selfbow requires no templates at all. A riser template, which you would make by compying the first riser you make onto cardboard, is the only real one you need for a fiberglass lam bow.

Now. I build selfbows and glass lam hybrids, and a 66" nock to nock (67" overall) hybrid is about the best compromise of stability and manuverabilty I've found with an 18" riser. For selfbows I play with a bunch of lengths and still find 66" to 68" nock to nock to be the best. I find short bows a lot harder to shoot accurately, as well as being NO EASIER TO MOVE AROUND WITH. An extra inch or two off the ends of the limbs don't ruin your hunting, trust me. As for the weight, you might want to be thinking about 40# actually. Unless you've shot trad bows before and have a good idea of whether you can handle something around 50-55#, don't risk it. It's no fun shooting twelve arrows and then having to stop because you're already getting too tired to keep practicing. It will take you alot longer to be hunting ready. Lighter bows are pretty easy to learn on. And 40#, if well built, is usually enough to hunt with. 

For some pictures of bows I've done to get an idea of what I've done and had success with, check out my site in the signature


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## dstubb (Apr 25, 2010)

Thanks for the advice kegan, but why wouldn't i need a template for the limb shape? Seems like it would only make things that much more exact for the top and bottom limbs. And yes i am not building a self bow, it will be a hickory/fiberglass hybrid. Do you have any computer drawings for the riser?


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## cobia (Aug 30, 2008)

bingham archery products have prints and all kinds of neat stuff that would help you


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Well, though it may save you a 1/32", bows aren't as picky as cabinets. Trust me. I simply measure 10" from the end of the riser, and from there draw straight lines from the outside edge to measured 1/2" nocks. I later reduce the taper to 3/8" nocks. This adjustment allows for any wiggle that might have come out when gluing up. I've never seen a need for anything more than that.

As for the riser, sadly I don't. I Started by getting the form built. I copied the curve onto a blcok of wood, and then shaped the block so that when I clamped everything up without glue, I could see if it went together well or needed adjustment. When I finally got it all well and good, I copied the riser shape onto carboard... several times. 

I know this is all a bit crude and rough. My father is a skilled wood worker and he considered much of my methodology to be so poor that nothing would ever work. It does though, and so far I've never had any real problems.


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## dstubb (Apr 25, 2010)

What do you guy's think of this riser design? I kinda just went based on pics of other risers and morphed them into my own. Does 10 inches for the riser sound about right for a 66 inch bow? Also...i can't really find any good info about where the arrow shelf should be located in relation to the center of the riser. Based on pics the center point of the riser seems to be placed near the top 3/4 of the hand placement.


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## dstubb (Apr 25, 2010)

Here is an image showing the side profile.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Not bad. Probably a little more exagerated than necessary, so therefore definately on the right track. However, 10" is a little short. Somewhere around 16-18" is normal. You get 4 1/2" for handle, 2 1/2" for the sight window, and then 4" for each fade, with the last inch being used up in between everything. It seems like alot, but when you actually draw it out life size, it seems alot more comfortable. 

Also, with a locator style depth, you'll find that a narrowed throat below the shelf is usually more than enough, and you won't have to do it on the bottom of the handle. Actually, the locator will make it hard to actually grip the bow like that to take advantage of it. I usually just narrow the whole handle section from 1 1/2" to about 1 3/8" or 1 1/4" (I'd have to go measure for certain). The locator makes the seemingly large, straight grip quite comfy actually.


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## dstubb (Apr 25, 2010)

Thanks for the tips kegan. After printing the shelf out i also realized that it was way to short. I am currently doing a rework with more detail. I'll post it soon for some more feedback.


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## dstubb (Apr 25, 2010)

Okay made some tweaks to the riser design, and figured out my wood layout. Any suggestions on a dark colored wood for the riser? This image is not to scale yet.


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## Dwill (Aug 26, 2010)

Cocobolo is a dark red colored wood with beautiful grains..it looks great on bows
Also curly maple, zebrawood, and if im right bocote is dark too


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## dstubb (Apr 25, 2010)

I found this on a website and am a little confused. _"As a general rule, the following lamination thickness specifications will, if applied to the bow design shown, produce a bow that will correspond closely to the desired weight you wish to achieve: for a 50 lb. bow: .175-inch core, .050-inch back glass and .060-inch belly glass"_ Are they saying that these thicknesses should be at the tip of the limbs or the center?


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

dstubb- First of all, that's looking to be a great bow. For woods, I would really avoid all those fancy expensive exotic woods. Everyone loves them, but many require removing all the oils so the glues adhere. Being a woodworker you might already be set up for that, but American walnut is as beautiful as all get out with a good finish and works great in bows. 

Now, for the thickness. Your bow is looking alot like the hybrids I build. Thickness is measured at the thicknest point of the limbs, without the riser. Usually an inch or so from the fades. However, charts only work for the exact same types of bows and sizes. That's why unless you're making a straight bow, many online charts are little more than vague notions. Since your bow is similiar to my own, here's what I've found works with a 66" nock to nock bow, 2" net reflex, and a ~17" riser:

Total limb Thickness ... Draw weight at 28"

0.36" ... 65#
0.33" ... 55#
0.30" ... 45#

...And removing 1/8"-1/4" from the overall width, minding the taper to the tips, will drop the bow down about 5#. However!!!! You will find with fiberglass it's very easy to make your bow too heavy. Your ability to lower the weight is very limited. If, however, the bow comes out too light, shortenning it an inch or two will boost weight anywhere from 5# to 20# depending on how much to remove. With this being your first traditional bow period, coming from a compound bow background, I'd stick towards the lighter end for sure. I messed up thickness on a bow I was looking to make 60-65#... it's now pulling 80# at my draw!


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