# A New Twist on the No Weld Trailor Jack Bowpress



## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Not having a welder is a serious liability when trying to build a bow press. After looking at the pipe clamp press on this forums I decided a better solution would be to mount the same sort of fingers on a trailer jack. This gave me the benefit of having enough travel to completely disassemble a bow and yet it was inexpensive and relatively easy to build. Best of all it required no welding. I did a lot of experimenting with steel fingers using grinder cutting wheels and a bench grinder. I came up with a reasonable solution but I really wanted some adjustable fingers. I finally settled on this design that is made completely out of Aluminum. I prefer aluminum to steel because it can generally be milled using the same power tools you would use in a wood shop. This is nice if you want the average Joe to be able to build one using his existing equipment. The finger design was completely cut out using my chop saw a hack saw and a drill press. The finger adjustment works simply by turning the shaft bolt. When you tighten it the fingers thread closer together and when you loosen it the fingers move farther apart. You can adjust the angle of the fingers independently using the 1/4-20 bolts threaded into the back. I'm going to be posting a bunch more pictures and instructions so anyone who wants to can copy my design and build their own. I know a lot of you will complain that the bow sits on the press rather than dangle from it. Frankly I've used this design for about 5 years now and I see no need to have a bow dangle other than that's the paradigm that was set by the commercial presses. All it does is add complexity to the build and takes up more space. With this compact design it's easy to throw in the car and take it with you for those longer distance hunts. I have built 4 of these now with slight variations and donated them to my local clubs. Enjoy!

Oh here is the original thread you can see how the press has progressed over the last several years
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1321214&highlight=Welding+50.00


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Here is a list of tools and materials you’ll need. 
Chop saw or table saw.
Drill press 
Hacksaw
Belt sander if you want smother finishes.
Spray paint can with the color of your Choice if you want it a pretty color…
9/16 drill bit
1/4 drill bit
#9 drill bit - for holes that the 10-24 bolts fit through
#7 drill bit - for holes to be threaded with 10-24 taps usually come with the correct drill bit.
#25 drill bit - for holes to be threaded with 1/4-20
F – drill bit - for holes to be threaded with 5/16-18
5/16 drill bit
5/8” drill bit - for counter sinking the screw holes
3/4 drill bit - with a 1/2” shank so it fits your drill press chuck. 
5/16-18 Tap and Die
1/4–20 Tap
10-24 tap


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Here is the materials list 

1 - Harbor Freight Square Trailer Jack
4 – 5/15-20 x 3.5” bolts Socket head
8 – 1/4-20 x 1/2” bolts flat Allen head
4 – 1/4-20 x 1” bolts Socket head
4 – 10-24 x 1/2" flat Allen head 
10 - Washers for the 5/16” bolts
4” x 4”x 1/2” x 12” long Aluminum L angle 
1/2” x 1/2” x 1/8” x 12” long Aluminum L angle 
3” Square Aluminum tube with 1/4" wall thickness 12” long
1 3/4” Square tube 1/8” thickness walls 18” long
2- 3/4” x 1” compression spring I think McMaster-Carr #9657K314 will work but the ones I used were ones I bought at Lowes and modified them slightly.
4- 1/2" X 1/4" Bushing with a 5/16” center hole, anything that will keep the sping centered on the 5/16" shaft bolt.

All the metal can be purchased from Online Metals in 1 foot increments.
All the hardware can be purchased from McMaster-Carr.com


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

*Step 1
Swapping out the crank to the opposite side of the jack so that a clockwise rotation compresses the bow. This is optional but make the operation a lot more intuitive.*
1)	Remove the screw and grease fitting that hold the plastic end cap in place
2)	Using a nail or a punch and a hammer pound the retaining pin out of the gear and crank. Extract the pin from the inside of the jack as it drops out. 
3)	Leave the gear in place and pull the crank out. 
4)	Drill a whole with the 9/16 drill bit about 5/8” from the end of the crank 
5)	Slide the crank back in on the opposite side of the jack and replace the press fit pin through the gear and into the new hole you just drilled.
6)	Return the black end cap and grease fitting to the end of the jack.
Now when you crank the handle clockwise it will compress the jack.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

*Step 2
Creating the insert that fits into the end of the jack. You can use the foot that comes with the jack by cutting off the base but I found that it fits a little sloppy and isn’t really long enough to handle the longest bows. So I use the 1.75” Square Aluminum tubing.*
1)	Set your table saw up at a 45 degree angle and chamfer each corner of the insert back about 1/8” This allows it to slide into the jack base.
2)	If it fits real tight you may need to remove burs on the inside of the jack with a file.
3)	Drill 4 holes 3” apart starting 4.5” on center from the end of the insert.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

*Step 3
Building the finger Assembly
3.A Cutting and drilling the fingers.*
1) Using your chop saw cut the 4”x 1/2” Aluminum L angle in 4 pieces that are 3/4” wide. If you don’t like the rough finish cut them marginally wider so you can sand or mill the finish smooth.
2) Cut one side of the L angle to 1.75” long. 
3) Setup your drill press with a clamp so you can drill all four finger with the F drill bit (the one for 5/16-18 tap) in the exact same place on each finger. By drilling all 4 exactly the same you ensure that the hole is consistently in the same place. Note when drilling metal you get a much cleaner hole and there is a lot less wear and tear on the equipment if you lubricate the bits and parts as you are drilling with cutting fluid or WD40 will also work.
4) Enlarge the hole on 2 of the fingers with the 5/16” drill bit
5) The two fingers that were not enlarged, using the 5/16-18 tap cut threads in the hole at the base of the fingers. 
6) Again with a clamp on your drill press set so you can drill a consistent hole using the #24 drill bit (the one that came with the 1/4-20 tap) drill a hole in the foot of each finger centered 5/16” from the end
7)	Using the 1/4-20 tap cut threads in each of these holes. Use plenty of cutting fluid or WD40 so avoid breaking the tap.
8) Using the number #7 drill bit drill a hole in the finger centered 1” from the top that you can use to bolt the limb shelf onto. 
9) Using the 10/14 tap cut threads into the limb shelf hole. 
10) Using the chop saw cut the 1/2” x 1/8” L angle to 3/4” wide pieces
11) Using the #9 drill, drill a hole in the center of one side of each of the limb shelf pieces.
12) Using the 10-24 screws bolt the limb shelf to the fingers.
13) Thread in the 4 -1/4-20 x 1” bolts into the fingers feet
Your fingers are now complete!


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Here are the dimensions for the fingers and the bases...


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

*3.B Making the finger bases and assembling the fingers.*
1) Using the chop saw cut a 3” long piece from the 3” square tube.
2) Now turn it sideways and with the shop saw cut the tube so that you have a U channel with 1.25” side wall. You’ll need to cut the other side so it too has a 1.25” side wall. You should now have 2 pieces that are 3”x3”x1.25” 
3) Using the 5/16 drill bit drill a hole in the 1.25” wall 2.125” from the end and 5/8” of an inch up from the bottom. This is the hole that the 5/16” bolts\shafts will got through to hold the fingers in place. 

4)	Using the 1/4” drill bit drill 4 holes in the base so that the finger base can be bolted to the insert and the Jack. Holes can be drilled 1/2" From the end and 1. 25” apart on center
5)	Clamp the finger plates in place on the insert and on the jack frame and drill the mounting holes with the #24 Drill bit. 
6)	The 8 holes you just drilled now need to have threads cut with the 1/4-20 tap
7)	Using the 1/4-20 bolts mount the finger bases to both the insert and the Jack. 
8)	Add a washer to the 5/15”x3.5” bolt and then lace it into the finger base now add the finger with the enlarged hole. 
9)	Add another washer and both plastic bushings
10)	Slide the spring over the plastic bushings and then add another washer. 
11)	Compress the spring enough to slide the second threaded finger in-between the last washer and the outside finger base wall. 
12)	Rotate the finger shaft bolt to thread it into the second finger, thread it through until the bolt head is flush with the outside of the finger base. Now add a washer on the far outside of the finger base and thread on the shaft nut.
13)	Make sure the finger shaft bolt rotates freely and then with a hammer mushroom the end of the bolt to prevent the nut from coming back off. A little epoxy wouldn’t hurt either.
14)	Now by rotating the shaft bolt you can adjust the width of the fingers.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Lastly you need to cut the Pin that holds the insert in place so that it doesn't stick too far out of the bottom.


Also here are what the old fingers looked like, They have now been replaced with the wiz bang super duper adjustable ones.


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## B.Hunter (May 4, 2009)

Very nicely done there bOw bender. Great job on explanation and pics. You do contribute alot to AT, and i for 1 appreciate it.


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## hoyt em all (Feb 20, 2005)

how far does the press [HF jack] move with 10 full turns of the crank?


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## matlocc (Sep 29, 2009)

Awesome, I want one. although I would like something that secures the bow from wanting to shoot up. would this do beyond parallel? Ex, insanity, invasion etc..


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## bassjerk (Jun 1, 2013)

absolutely fantastic!


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## ruttnwapati (Sep 22, 2008)

Spectacular press build and instructional thread. Once again, bringing your "A" game to the DIY Forum. :thumbs_up


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## harleynut (Jan 20, 2013)

nicely done. by far the best looking no welding press ive seen on here


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

matlocc said:


> Awesome, I want one. although I would like something that secures the bow from wanting to shoot up. would this do beyond parallel? Ex, insanity, invasion etc..


This is an excellent question and to be honest I don't know. I don't own one of the beyond parallel bows to test it with. My thought is that you could wrap a strap around the jack and the bow to keep a beyond parallel bow from shooting up and that would work I simply cannot say for sure. I have pressed one of the kids PSE bows with it I made a curved finger cover that pressed against the limbs and that seemed to work well. But that was for the PSE that has the real curled limbs. the Hoyt is a different story. How do the commercial presses deal with it or do they use a different design?


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## Kinkajou (Mar 2, 2013)

Great ideas.
Have you pressed Bear bows? What is the highest bow poundage that you have pressed? I have read that 70 lbs is a usuall bow weight and 80lbs is rare. 

Anyway, great ideas!


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

the heaviest bow I shoot is 63# and it did that with out much grunting. I'm sure it could do an 80# bow with no problem.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

hoyt em all said:


> how far does the press [HF jack] move with 10 full turns of the crank?


Once upon a time I calculated this out by counting the cranks over the full travel distance and then I measured the full distance. with a little math I was able to calculate that it takes 8.44 cranks per 1 inch of travel that's .1185 of an inch per crank. 
so 10 cranks would be 1.185 inches. 
:icon_1_lol:


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## Tommy petty (Sep 24, 2013)

Super great post. Thanks so much. Definitely tagging this for future. Very nice design and well detailed and documented.


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

Another suggestion with these jacks, which I use from time to time, is to shorten the handle by two inches or more. Of course you need to be able to weld to make this modification. It still has enough leverage to press the bow without making you tired when letting down a bow the whole way  Another suggestion would be just to have a rod sticking out from the jack and use a cordless drill to turn the press, did that once too.


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## 4falls (Aug 18, 2013)

keeper


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## Cheese1 (Sep 6, 2009)

Good job :thumbs_up


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## jljjdye (Jan 11, 2007)

Very nice


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Thanks Everyone, If you build one be sure and post your pictures and make sure you share any improvements that you make.


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

saving for later ... nice work BowBender


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## slowen (Jun 27, 2006)

Very nice!


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## kc hay seed (Jul 12, 2007)

good job bow bender,looks nice and clean!!


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## Chancy B (Jan 3, 2007)

Subscribed. Nice design.


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## phantom1 (Dec 14, 2004)

Awesome! Have you pressed Mathews Monster bows and PSE Xforce bows? Also, those Bear bows mentioned with precurved/prestressed limbs? Thanks for posting all this!!!!


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Good job on the press! And an even better job on the presentation. :thumbs_up
It's obvious that you put a lot of work & thought into this.
Thank you for posting,
Allen


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

phantom1 said:


> Awesome! Have you pressed Mathews Monster bows and PSE Xforce bows? Also, those Bear bows mentioned with precurved/prestressed limbs? Thanks for posting all this!!!!


I have not but I would think that you could lean the fingers back just a little and strap the bow in, preferably in 2 places and then press away. I don't see why it wouldn't work. As mentioned above I did do a smaller Youth PSE bow with the beyond parallel limbs by cutting a curved finger cover and that seemed to work pretty well, but it was a youth bow. So I cannot say with absolute definitive knowledge that you could press them but I think you could. See a picture of the curved finger cover below. This was a one time thing so I didn't put a ton of effort into the curved design. I would think incorporating a shelf would be nice.


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## Richard932 (Jul 6, 2010)

tag...


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## brandonlw (Feb 23, 2011)

I like it !!! great job !!!!


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## Pittstate23 (Dec 27, 2010)

Awesome detail in your post and great idea


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## Tooly (Mar 20, 2013)

Marker


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## Z-Rider (Jul 23, 2007)

Great write up, makes the entire build process easy to follow.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Dangit I forgot all about the hand wheel. If you do any amount of pressing you'll likely want to add the hand wheel. To do this you can cut a shaft out of the hand crank to approximately 3.25" inches long depending on the thickness of the wheel you buy. You can also buy the shaft material from online metals. When you purchase a wheel make sure it's at least 8" anything smaller makes it difficult to crank during the compression.

I believe I purchased mine from Grizzly tools it was around $15.00
http://www.grizzly.com/products/H3193


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Some of you may have noticed the bolts sticking out of the side of the press. This is the integrated draw board that I use to check cam timing on my bows. I basically set it to approximately 3 inches shy of full draw and then pull the string back and hook it onto the string bolt. I then use the crank to bring it up to fill draw and check the cam timing.


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## Chris101 (Dec 19, 2010)

Wow! Incredible! Now I feel stupid for buying a press! lol


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## hoyt em all (Feb 20, 2005)

i added a winch to mine . it was faster than cranking the full draw plus no pre drawing


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## apamambax (Dec 23, 2009)

another idea would be to bolt a block of steel or aluminum approximately 2-1/2" wide x1/2" thick and 6" long onto the jack....mount your fingers on it and you would have a press VERY similar to an EZpress


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## time907356 (Nov 23, 2007)

phantom1 said:


> Awesome! Have you pressed Mathews Monster bows and PSE Xforce bows? Also, those Bear bows mentioned with precurved/prestressed limbs? Thanks for posting all this!!!!


One issue to watch out for with past parallel bows is the propensity for the limbs to 'walk off' of the fingers. I bought a Linear Toad to take my x-force's all the way down. The Toad had very short finger vertical lands, and the bow would walk right off. I had to take it to an LCA EZ Press. It's easy enough to extend the fingers on this design; I'm also having new ones made for my press, just with longer limb lands. Here's a depiction of what I'm talking about:


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Actually you can completely remove the finger limb shelves so you can place the limbs as far into the fingers as you want\need. I really wish I had one of those bows so I could test the multiple ideas that I have. I'm certain I could make it work pretty easily but I would need a bow to work with before I feel comfortable telling others how to do it.


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## lsmerrill (Dec 5, 2013)

Tagged for later


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## wpod (Mar 30, 2013)

Almost done with my press. No chop saw so it's hacksaw and file. Still have fingers to cut out then drilling/tapping the holes.
Thought I'd share where I mounted it:



Drawboard/shooter, vise, press all in one portable folding unit.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Ha, that looks like the shop-smith of the archery world, looks really good.


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## Scojen7 (Feb 15, 2013)

Bowbender,

Ya got me, I just happen to have all those materials on hand. Well thought out on your part. Kudos !


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## V-TRAIN (Feb 27, 2009)

b0w_bender said:


> Dangit I forgot all about the hand wheel. If you do any amount of pressing you'll likely want to add the hand wheel. To do this you can cut a shaft out of the hand crank to approximately 3.25" inches long depending on the thickness of the wheel you buy. You can also buy the shaft material from online metals. When you purchase a wheel make sure it's at least 8" anything smaller makes it difficult to crank during the compression.
> 
> I believe I purchased mine from Grizzly tools it was around $15.00
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/H3193


Wish I would have seen this earlier cause I ordered a 7", guess I will wing it.
Are you just saying cut the original crank off to slide into the wheel ? is it welded on ? what keeps the wheel from wanting to spin on the shaft if not welded ?


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## bowguy357 (Jan 2, 2014)

wpod said:


> Almost done with my press. No chop saw so it's hacksaw and file. Still have fingers to cut out then drilling/tapping the holes.
> Thought I'd share where I mounted it:
> 
> 
> ...


would love to have details on this as i do not have the big tools mention for the other. drill press, table saw ect. love the original just wish i had access to a carpenters toys!


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## wpod (Mar 30, 2013)

bowguy357 said:


> would love to have details on this as i do not have the big tools mention for the other. drill press, table saw ect. love the original just wish i had access to a carpenters toys!


I used a hacksaw (now have severe tennis-elbow), drill press (could use a hand-drill with helpers spotting), taps for threading.
I just combined three DIY projects onto the one stand. Drawboard, shooter, and press. Addrd the vise on the end. Might buy or make some trays for the center. The fingers work so smooth you can adjust width and tilt without tools.
Work has kept me away from home for 3 weeks. Now home till Thurs (but have to work on my pick-up).


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

V-TRAIN said:


> Wish I would have seen this earlier cause I ordered a 7", guess I will wing it.
> Are you just saying cut the original crank off to slide into the wheel ? is it welded on ? what keeps the wheel from wanting to spin on the shaft if not welded ?


7" will probably be OK, Ya if you have no intention of using the original crank it is the correct size of the shaft. You'll need to drill a hole in it for the retaining pin in the gear, I described that in on the first page. To hold the crank on I filed a flat spot on the "new" shaft and then use a set screw through the wheel to hold it in place.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

wpod said:


> I used a hacksaw (now have severe tennis-elbow), drill press (could use a hand-drill with helpers spotting), taps for threading.
> I just combined three DIY projects onto the one stand. Drawboard, shooter, and press. Addrd the vise on the end. Might buy or make some trays for the center. The fingers work so smooth you can adjust width and tilt without tools.
> Work has kept me away from home for 3 weeks. Now home till Thurs (but have to work on my pick-up).


I'm sure you can build all this with hand tools but it would be laborious.


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## V-TRAIN (Feb 27, 2009)

b0w_bender said:


> 7" will probably be OK, Ya if you have no intention of using the original crank it is the correct size of the shaft. You'll need to drill a hole in it for the retaining pin in the gear, I described that in on the first page. To hold the crank on I filed a flat spot on the "new" shaft and then use a set screw through the wheel to hold it in place.


AH, ok thanks, I get it now. thanks


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## bowguy357 (Jan 2, 2014)

I've got everything to do this at work going to ask my boss today if he cares if i stay after and use some of the machines


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## 3D JOE (Aug 28, 2012)

tagged


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## wpod (Mar 30, 2013)

b0w_bender said:


> I'm sure you can build all this with hand tools but it would be laborious.


Yes, it was/is laborious, but my kids saw how you can make something from scratch.
The dying art of craftsmanship.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

wpod said:


> Yes, it was/is laborious, but my kids saw how you can make something from scratch.
> The dying art of craftsmanship.


A picture of the completed unit would be great!


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## wpod (Mar 30, 2013)

One thing I have yet to do on the fingers is the bevel on the backside of the tips (opposite the the shelf). Is this feature to access cam module screws?


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

In my case I did it to avoid the draw stop on my martin shadowcat. If you don't have a draw stop then I'm not sure it's all that critical.


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## wpod (Mar 30, 2013)

Cool, less work. Thanks


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## hoytbaxter (Sep 15, 2010)

Tag


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## IrregularPulse (Sep 22, 2012)

I'm curious what you have in this materials wise. I would need a drill press, need one anyway so don't mind buying for this project, and could probably get by without the table saw. I just want to make a fair comparison in cost and time vs buying an EZ Press. The EZ would be delivered to my door ready to go, this would probably take a few months or more of finding free time between house projects


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

It probably would have been great if I kept close track of that but since I had a bunch of the materials and bolts and stuff laying around I didn't have to go fill a shopping cart to get started. But if I were to guess I would say that it was around $135.00 - $160.00 including the jack. Some where in that range. Of course shipping costs for the aluminum plays a role but that's a reasonable guess I would think.


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## OregonKDS (Mar 6, 2014)

Tagged


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## GrayTech (Jan 29, 2013)

I have a 5" wheel on mine with 1/2" acme thread. it works just fine and doesn't get much harder to turn than when unloaded. At the advice of a heavy machinery mechanic friend I have anti-seize grease on my thread and it makes all the difference.
You could weld on the hand wheel, but I cut a key slot with a dremel instead and whacked it on. I guess it helps that my wheel had a key slot to begin with.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

GrayTech said:


> I have a 5" wheel on mine with 1/2" acme thread. it works just fine and doesn't get much harder to turn than when unloaded. At the advice of a heavy machinery mechanic friend I have anti-seize grease on my thread and it makes all the difference.
> You could weld on the hand wheel, but I cut a key slot with a dremel instead and whacked it on. I guess it helps that my wheel had a key slot to begin with.


I don't know what the thread is on the harbor freight jacks to know if your experience is consistent but I suspect it is different than the acme. Those jacks aren't known for their smooth action. I had a 4" wheel and I had to use 2 hands to turn the wheel to make it comfortable. Having the anti-seize grease would probably make a difference though. The 8" wheel makes it supper easy to turn. Not sure if I mentioned it earlier but to Attach mine I trilled a set screw hole and threaded it and cut a small slot into the shaft that the screw fit into. The key slot sounds pretty cool I wish mine had that.
.


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## silhouette13 (Feb 26, 2007)

these fingers are a lot like the ones the PSE factory uses on their beyond parallel bows. if Bowbender was to make some that were a direct fit for a LCA i would buy some...just sayin'

awesome job my man.

straight fingers with a hook on the top are the bee's knees for beyond parallel. at least PSE limbs.



matlocc said:


> Awesome, I want one. although I would like something that secures the bow from wanting to shoot up. would this do beyond parallel? Ex, insanity, invasion etc..


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Thanks for the positive feedback, part of the reason I show this stuff in detail like is that I think they are simple enough and require only the most basic tools to build so everyone can have a good starting point to build their own. I also thing that depending on where you bolt on the finger shelf you could easily use these on the standard upside down bow presses. And because they are bolt-ons you can remove change and upgrade anytime you want.


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## beachz (May 28, 2014)

Just subscribed. Thanks for sharing! I recently ran across on old hospital bed table with a similar mechanism and design as your jack base. I brought it home in hopes of turning it into a press. You have done some great R&D.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

cool make sure you post pictures if you build one.


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

I have a question to the guys that replace the regular handle with the round wheel. Did you really noticed any significant improvement in the operation? Is it easier to turn the wheel then the handle? I'm asking because the wheel with shipping cost the same as the jack itself. Also grizzly does not have them in stock. I found two other ones. But have no idea what is the difference between one and the other. Here are the links Solid Body Handwheel - 8" and second one Non Safety Hand Wheel 8" . I know they are little bit heavier then the spoked ones but it doesn't bother me.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

the big difference is that you don't need all that leverage of the long crank handle to compress the bow so the hand wheel is just a lot less real-estate that your hand has to travel to crank the bow. So the inexpensive way to get to the same functionality is to heat up the crank and shorten it to more like 4 or 5". This is assuming you have a torch...


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

Okay. Here is my progress so far. I'm thinking to plasti dip the fingers next. Also I might remove the 5/8" bolt that join the two pieces together and weld them . I will do it just to have a flat bottom instead of a bolt sticking out. I used small wing nut screws to eliminate the wobble. They might work or not. If not then I will use some kind of brass or aluminum shim. Also later on I will cut off the bottom plate. And my handwheel is on the way.
Anyway here are some photos:


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

And here two more pictures:


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Those are nice fingers, well done! Thanks for sharing the pictures.


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

b0w_bender said:


> *
> 4)	Drill a whole with the 9/16 drill bit about 5/8” from the end of the crank
> *


*
I don't think this is 9/16" bit. Can you confirm that?*


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Ha ya 9/16" is practically bigger than the shaft. that is clearly a typo I just went and checked and I used a 3/16" drill bit.

Good catch thanks!


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

b0w_bender said:


> Ha ya 9/16" is practically bigger than the shaft. that is clearly a typo I just went and checked and I used a 3/16" drill bit.
> 
> Good catch thanks!


Great. Thank You. I'm going to replace the shaft with another one to mount my wheel. That is why I need the drill size , so I can "borrow" a drill bit from work :wink:


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

Bow bender I was able to replace the stock handle with new shaft and hand wheel. I got to tell ya that 3/16" hole was tight for that stock pin. I have to bang it really hard to set it in place. I might post some pictures later when I get home. Still need to cut the shaft to length and mount the hand wheel


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Thanks for letting me know, Those Jacks aren't known for their tight tolerances. I just measured the hole that I had in a shaft I used in a former press. My recollection was that it was rather sloppy in mine. That could also be my sloppy memory though. At least it won't be falling out on ya. Pictures would be great

I was wondering why you put the screws on the outside of your fingers rather than the inside? The only real problem I see with that is that is shortens the total length of the press and that's not a problem I was just curious.


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

I was afraid that if I put the fingers with the screws part inside the tall part might bent or something because the thicker corner part will not support the tall part. 
Check the drawing I hope it will explain better what I meant :wink:
View attachment 2011786


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Gotcha, I think you would have been fine either way. I expect the weak point is the finger tops but I think those will be fine too. Good work thanks for sharing.


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## hoyt em all (Feb 20, 2005)

Pysiek said:


> Bow bender I was able to replace the stock handle with new shaft and hand wheel. I got to tell ya that 3/16" hole was tight for that stock pin. I have to bang it really hard to set it in place. I might post some pictures later when I get home. Still need to cut the shaft to length and mount the hand wheel


if i remember right the pins are tapered


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

yes it is tapered. But I think the whole was too tight. I will measure the old one and see what size it is


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Pysiek said:


> yes it is tapered. But I think the whole was too tight. I will measure the old one and see what size it is


Yup, I'm curious make sure you update us.


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

I'm sorry that I did not post an update. Been very busy lately. Will measure and post here this evening.


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

Just measured the hole with verniet and it is .200" so it is little bigger then 3/16"


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Well, 3/16 = .1875 that 1.5 ten thousandths difference that's a frog hair in my book.
That's a little jiggle of the drill bit after drilling the hole. :icon_1_lol:

I guess 13/64ths might be OK if you had it.

Still good to know thanks for sharing.


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

To be exact this is 0.0125" difference. It might be a lot since the pin itself is made to be tight fit in .200" hole. So now when you make the hole smaller and pin stay the same it is a TIGHT fit :wink:

Here are some photos of the press finished. Sorry about the mess. A lot of projects going on in garage :darkbeer:
The hand wheel is 8". I also purchased plastic end caps to cover the whole where I cut off steel plate of the jack.





























View attachment 2016177


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

View attachment 2016178


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Well done indeed, very nice!


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

here is the user *wpod* and his video on how he incorporated the no weld press into the all in one archery toolbox unit. I thought it was such a good idea I went to the trouble of posting it on this thread too.


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## Genet511 (Jun 13, 2014)

Ttt


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## b-a-maniak (Apr 19, 2014)

Excellent!


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## Genet511 (Jun 13, 2014)

This is my version. Thanks to b0w bender for his inspiring design work and everyone else who posted ideas for this design. It works great. I made a different set of fingers to fit my Energy 35 when the stops are still on but have not tried them yet.


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## wpod (Mar 30, 2013)

b0w_bender said:


> here is the user *wpod* and his video on how he incorporated the no weld press into the all in one archery toolbox unit. I thought it was such a good idea I went to the trouble of posting it on this thread too.


Here's a link to my thread:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2214923


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## 4falls (Aug 18, 2013)

awesome.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

IrregularPulse said:


> I'm curious what you have in this materials wise. I would need a drill press, need one anyway so don't mind buying for this project, and could probably get by without the table saw. I just want to make a fair comparison in cost and time vs buying an EZ Press. The EZ would be delivered to my door ready to go, this would probably take a few months or more of finding free time between house projects


OK I finally looked up all the prices and copied all the links. In most cases there is enough material and hardware with the minimal orders to build two of these so take that into consideration. Of course if you have any of these materials on hand like washers or bolts or you find this stuff on sale you can also save a bunch there but assuming you have to buy everything full price here is the costs and the sources.


Harbor Freight Square Trailer Jack Compression unit $49.99 http://www.harborfreight.com/3500-lb-capacity-drop-leg-trailer-jack-3961.html
5/15-20 x 3.5” bolts Socket head Finger Axles 1 Box of 5 $4.71 92196A597 McMaster Carr
1/4-20 x 1/2” bolts flat Allen head	Finger Bracket Base	1 box of 10 $3.67 90585A537 McMaster Carr
1/4-20 x 1” bolts Socket head	Finger Angle Adjusters	1 box 10 $3.99 92185A542 McMaster Carr
10-24 x 1/2" flat Allen head	Finger Shelf Bolts	1 box 10 $3.35 90585A242 McMaster Carr
Washers for the 5/16” bolts	Finger Axles 1 box od 192 $4.10 91083A030 McMaster Carr
4” x 4”x 1/2” x 12” long Aluminum L angle	Finger Material $13.28 https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1006&step=4&showunits=inches&id=62&top_cat=60
1/2” x 1/2” x 1/8” x 12” long Aluminum L angle	Finger Shelf Material $1.09 https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=970&step=4&showunits=inches&id=62&top_cat=60
3” Square Aluminum tube with 1/4" wall thickness 12” long	Finger Base Braket $21.47 http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=7060&step=4&showunits=inches&id=1270&top_cat=60
1 3/4” Square tube 1/8” thickness walls 18” long	Optional Jack Insert Replacement $13.80 https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=18016&step=4&showunits=inches&id=1270&top_cat=60
2- 3/4” x 1” compression spring I think McMaster-Carr #9657K314 will work but the ones I used were ones I bought at Lowes and modified them slightly.	Finger Adjuster	Pack of 12 $9.98 9657K314 McMaster Carr
4- 1/2" X 1/4" Bushing with a 5/16” center hole, anything that will keep the sping centered on the 5/16" shaft bolt.	Spring Alignment	Pack of 25 $7.79 94639A212 McMaster Carr
Handwheel - 8"	Optional Hand Wheel	1 Wheel $22.95 http://www.grizzly.com/products/H3193



Total cost *$160.17 *
Total cost without the optional insert and handwheel *$123.42*


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## gideonbcooper (Nov 28, 2014)

Just wondering if anyone has used this style press on a beyond parallel bow yet. I've read all the threads on it and haven't seen anyone mention it other than b0w bender mentioning the youth PSE. I have the jack on the way and I'm looking for some ideas on the safest finger shape to use for my Bowtech Insanity CPXL. I noticed that the bow has some sort of limb caps im guessing to help with pressing, and that they have holes through them. I cant find any information on them but wondered if I could split the tips of the aluminum fingers to maybe 1/4 inch on each side of these caps with a matching hole and pin to help keep bow in the press... if that's overkill, I wont do it. I want to get through this with the simplest design possible, however I still wonder about the bow creeping out of the press. Any ideas?


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## jwilson48 (Apr 1, 2009)

Tag


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## gideonbcooper (Nov 28, 2014)

Okay, well I figured out that they are called pillow blocks, and ive seen one press "spikepress" that uses pins to go through the pillow block holes so im guessing I could simply attach a removable pin assembly that faces inward with the fingers in the widest position to your almost universal design as it is and be golden. Still welcoming any input. It may take a while to get all the supplies now that I no longer work in the aircraft business, but I will post after it is finished.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

After further research I'm not sure my PSE limb adapers would work for bows outside the PSE line and perhaps not all the PSE bows either. One of the ways Last Chance handles this problem is buy using a limb adapter that basically clamps onto the end of the limb and grabs the fingers so it cannot work its way off. I would suggest perhaps you buy some of these or use the idea as a starting point. You can lay the fingers back a bit to match the limb angle and the shelf should fit OK into the indentation of the adapters that are designed for the last chance fingers. Off the top of my head I would think you could do the same thing with some milled neoprene and an aluminum U channel that you bolt into the hole where the finger shelve would normally reside.








http://www.ebay.com/itm/LAST-CHANCE-LIMBS-ADAPTERS-ARCHERY-SPORTS-/261438485829?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cdef2b545


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## gideonbcooper (Nov 28, 2014)

guess the pillow blocks on the overdrive binary cams were designed for this?

www.youtube.com/embed/bqQHAx1cx7I


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Looks like bow manufacturers that make beyond parallel limbed bows are starting to incorporate Limb adapters that are attached to the limbs. This certainly makes pressing these bows a little easier. However it will need so tinkering with the fingers to get them to work with these adapters. Perhaps longer shelf or even a pocket instead of a shelf.
in most cases I think you could just use the limb shelf as the pressure point that registers into the integrate "Pillow block", if that's what we are calling them. Also the Last Chance adapter same thing. Here are pictures of how I would expect them to work.


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## hoyt em all (Feb 20, 2005)

i can see just pressing the bow with them (pillow blocks), but letting them all the way down ? it would still scare me. it must work i guess


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## joshb311 (Jul 30, 2011)

Awesome! Thanks so much for sharing this.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

hoyt em all said:


> i can see just pressing the bow with them (pillow blocks), but letting them all the way down ? it would still scare me. it must work i guess


Ya you may need to adjust the finger angle half way down.


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## hoyt em all (Feb 20, 2005)

b0w_bender said:


> Ya you may need to adjust the finger angle half way down.


a few years when i built my inline press i had the idea of having one screw to adjust both finger ends at the same time as well as having individual screws for each finger . i did not do it but i might have to someday


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

here is a new accessory for the "set the bow on top" type of press. 
You all know I hate wasting my life looking for crap that I've manage to drop on the floor. The older I get the farther that floor looks too. Soooo... here is my latest insurance policy for dealing with gravity. I took a plastic bin I had and bolted it a piece of U-channel. _(Yes this is a piece of U-channel I screwed up when making my first set of fingers)_ I added a had crank bolt to it so I could clamp it to the jack and now I can move it to either end of the press. It's great to store parts and pieces and also keep the nock point and peep sight from finding their way to the furthest part of the floor under my bench. Enjoy!


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## phantom1 (Dec 14, 2004)

b0w bender, I just finished reading all the pages of this thread and all the pages of your first thread "the $50 no weld press" and you really started alot of neat ideas. I've been entertained all afternoon just reading what you and everyone posted. Thanks to you and all the others! I'm still using portable presses, so maybe someday I can put one of these together. Probably will have to hide it to keep "friends and family" (alleged!) from wearing me out or set up some sort of weed eat the yard and I'll press your bow program!haha!!

Thanks again!


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## MICCOX (Sep 28, 2008)

Tag


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## bonecollector66 (Mar 2, 2011)

tag


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## 48Special (May 11, 2015)

I have a variety of bows ranging from an old Jennings Tstar II to a Bowtech carbon icon. I also have a couple youth bows my boys have used over the years. I'd like to build a press that I can use on all of them, both for minor compression as well as complete relaxation of the bows (e.g. changing limbs, etc.). I've spent most of the morning perusing these excellent threads and can see two main themes - limb tip presses and what i'll call X presses, where the bow rests on rollers. This may be a stupid question, but won't an X press work on a parallel bow? Is there some downside about using that type of press that the limb tip press avoids? 

Thanks


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

In my experience the x-press style are just a bit more fiddly you need to mess with the settings a bit more but sure you should be able to get it to press any bow. I watched a guy spend more than 5 minutes setting up his press to press a buddies bow, very fiddly. I think the X-press style is still around because it was a way of building a press that wasn't subject to the patent issues that the finger presses are subject to. If you wanted to commercially sell a finger based press it had to be licensed by Last chance archery the makers of the easy press and they were not offering those licenses to too many folks. So the Xpress is another press option that is not subject to the EZ press patent. 

Well that's my impression anyway I could be wrong on that.


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## 48Special (May 11, 2015)

thanks!


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

b0w_bender said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/LAST-CHANCE-LIMBS-ADAPTERS-ARCHERY-SPORTS-/261438485829?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cdef2b545


$140 for four casted parts :mg:


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Outsider said:


> $140 for four casted parts :mg:


Ya that's what a patent gets you exclusivity and pricing.


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## BluMeanie (May 5, 2014)

Wasn't somebody selling a set of those at some ridiculously-low price on here a few months-ago because he no longer had the press?


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## WAH0918 (Dec 28, 2014)

Bow Bender - thanks for posting this link in the thread I started. Excellent work, thanks for sharing with the community, that includes everyone else that shared here. Will be starting on my own project build soon. Hopefully it will turn out as well as others in here and I can post a picture also. Thanks again.


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## Bloodhounder (Jan 28, 2016)

Tag, wow what a cool thread.


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## dsal (Dec 24, 2008)

Nicely done.


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## mmeadow (Jun 29, 2016)

Tag

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk


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## Combat Infidel (Dec 12, 2016)

Looks great 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

thanks guys for the kind words, I was hoping to see some more pictures that others had built.


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## vito9999 (Jun 30, 2009)

Following


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## illiniarcher (Sep 13, 2014)

Tagged


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## Davesolo29 (Apr 5, 2015)

b0w_bender said:


> thanks guys for the kind words, I was hoping to see some more pictures that others had built.


Having read this post has inspired me. Give me a couple weeks and I'll show you what I can come up with. 
Luckily for me tho I am a welder and have access to pretty much anything I'll need. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Davesolo29 (Apr 5, 2015)

I was just out pricing some parts to build this. I'm considering going with a power jack if I can find a good deal on one. 
Either way I will have to wait for something to go on sale. I refuse to pay full price u less I desperately need it right away. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## granite14 (Nov 10, 2014)

just placed my order for online metals.. here go's nothing 

Thanks Pat. I just couldn't bring myself to spend $400 on a press when I just want to tweak around on my finger bows that cost less than that.
At least now, my press won't cost more than the bow I'm working on


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

granite14 said:


> just placed my order for online metals.. here go's nothing
> 
> Thanks Pat. I just couldn't bring myself to spend $400 on a press when I just want to tweak around on my finger bows that cost less than that.
> At least now, my press won't cost more than the bow I'm working on


Fantastic, Please post up your pictures when you are done! :cheers:


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## Fauxfly (Apr 19, 2011)

tagged - cuz its under construction...


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## granite14 (Nov 10, 2014)

I decided not to build this. I have all the metal and hardware I would sell if anyone is interested.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


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## cadmanj (Apr 4, 2017)

Tag


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## wpod64 (Oct 6, 2014)

Since building mine, I bought a welder and am teaching myself to weld.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## BluMeanie (May 5, 2014)

wpod64 said:


> Since building mine, I bought a welder and am teaching myself to weld.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


Whether you use it to construct a press or not; an extremely useful skill and machine to have in your possession. 

Goodonya.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

I'm in the process of putting together another wood stove and wondering if I should go buy a welder too. My issue is that I don't really have a good place to weld. I live in the middle of a very tight development. Sure would be nice to have though.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Just a bump to help with a PM discussion.


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## leoncrandall74 (Apr 9, 2017)

Alot of great ideas and presses everyone! I love the inovasion of these DIY projects. I'm getting ready to build a press in the near future. Jack and steel are on the way. I'm going to attempt welding it (been at least 20 years since I've welded) but I'll give it a try. i really like the idea of the draw board incorporated into the press. I'll probably try it once the press is complete. So far I have $100 in it not counting the fingers. I'm still undecided on the mount /base. I'm getting excited to get this project under way..

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk


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## kzz1king (Jan 21, 2007)

I need to go over it again but does this finger design allow you to press without removing drawstops? A pic ? Please.
Wayne


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## upatreearchery (Dec 29, 2017)

tag


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## aussiemick01 (Jan 4, 2018)

Tag

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

kzz1king said:


> I need to go over it again but does this finger design allow you to press without removing drawstops? A pic ? Please.
> Wayne


It really depends on the cam you are using and where the draw stop is on that cam. Here is a picture of my Martin ShadowCat. This draw stop is about half way on the draw stop slot. If I had a shorter draw I would need to either raise the shelf or modify the finger to accommodate the draw stop.


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## gamesticker (May 16, 2009)

Tag


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## Dutchmaster (Aug 27, 2015)

Following


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Well it has been a while since this was on the first page and thought there might be some folks out there that haven't seen it before.


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## vincentn1818 (Nov 25, 2021)

b0w_bender said:


> Well it has been a while since this was on the first page and thought there might be some folks out there that haven't seen it before.


Thanks for bumping this up. What a great build from OP.


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## thwackaddict (Sep 1, 2006)

b0w_bender said:


> Well it has been a while since this was on the first page and thought there might be some folks out there that haven't seen it before.


I been on here a long time and missed it. Thanks for the bump.


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## Drivenwelding (Oct 21, 2020)

B.Hunter said:


> Very nicely done there bOw bender. Great job on explanation and pics. You do contribute alot to AT, and i for 1 appreciate it.


Nice


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## OutlawJim10 (10 mo ago)

WOW!!! That looks amazing!!! I might have to give this a shot!!! Thanks for sharing!!!


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

OutlawJim10 said:


> WOW!!! That looks amazing!!! I might have to give this a shot!!! Thanks for sharing!!!


Post up a picture if you give it a whirl.


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