# Brass or tied nocking point?



## voxito (Apr 16, 2006)

Usually my tied nocks, with one above and below, tune lower (closer to 90 degrees) than a single brass nock does. Tied nocks are faster and in my personal preference I think they come out of the tab cleaner too. I also tie all mine with majesty serving on top of a drop of goat tuff so I never have to worry about them moving


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

cc46 -

For all logical reasons, the tied on nocking points are "better": they weight less (most crimp-ons weigh about 6 gr, IIRC), have no rough edges, don't move and heck even "look" better. Doubt you'll see too many serious shooters using crimp-ons.

All that being said, I've gone back to crimp-ons and that's all I've used for the last few years - and I've used just about everything out there at one time or another. They are just so much easier, (faster to install and reposition, if necessary), I just don't bother "tieing one on" anymore 

Viper1 out.


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## InKYfromSD (Feb 6, 2004)

I've tied mine on for years. When I first tie a set on a string I leave them a little loose so I can shoot the string in and get them exactly where I want them. Once I have them positioned, I mark the location on a bow square. I put blue painters tape on the square so I can use a Sharpie to mark the exact locations. I cut the old ones off and re-tie a new set making them very tight. They don't move after that. No glue needed. I have two old spools of twisted fast flight serving that I use. Ten knots on each one and they're good to go. I'll admit that I've never even tried a crimp on metal nock on a recurve. Even my hunting compunds have tied on nocks.


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## Mark Hedges (Dec 18, 2008)

cc46 said:


> my sight marks gained about 2 metres (on 50), and my bare shaft was slightly weak in the 5 ring.


I do not think that the reduction in weight could cause this much change, especially at 50 meters. My guess is that either your new nockset is a little lower, or your old nockset was pinching the nock robbing a little speed.

Mark


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## Vittorio (Jul 17, 2003)

cc46 said:


> what's your experience...let me set it up...today because of a fray on my serving I removed the brass nock on my string and tied a nocking point with dental floss. my sight marks gained about 2 metres (on 50), and my bare shaft was slightly weak in the 5 ring. Tinkering a bit more and dropping 1 1/4 turns on the limbs I was back at the begining, same sight marks and bare shaft generally with the group.
> 
> Sooo...thinking a brass nock vs a tied nock, does it make a difference for you?



Normal situation. Weight on the string (nocking, serving lenght and kisser) makes around double effect than same weight deduced from arrow point.


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## Rick McKinney (Mar 4, 2008)

I used the brass nocking point throughout my entire career and still use it when I get time to shoot. My philosophy is that a plastic nock hitting against a metal nock set will not be able to move anywhere except leave the string upon release. A tie on system always seemed to have just a bit of movement since it is string type material against a plastic device. 

As for speed. Yes, the metal nock set will slow down the string speed enough to stiffen the arrow. As Vittorio mentioned it does have a much more effect on the reaction of the arrow than the point weight. 

So, now for those who think this is absolute...Darrell Pace used a tie on system. Thus, if you are good at tying the nock points on and are able to determine when the wear will be occur, then it will work good too. 

If you have too stiff of an arrow and are using metal nock sets, then switch over to the tie on. If you have too weak of an arrow and are using a tie on, then go to the metal nock set. This is of course, if money is an issue and you cannot afford to buy new arrows to get the exact tune.


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## Jim C (Oct 15, 2002)

DP likes Dental floss. He can tie a mean nocking point quickly with that stuff. I find it does what Rick says. I use Brownell FF end serving with overhand knots. Chris Shull wrote an article in Archery Focus (IIRC) about how to do that. YOu can move that point with some effort before you glue it on. It also stays "Square" unlike the dental floss. I have (once or twice) seen a brass NP come flying off when it had not been properly attached. think of a 300 FPS bb:mg:


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## cc46 (Jan 22, 2005)

thanks everyone, bit by bit this game is becoming more understandable, funny what was I doing 30 years ago...well...while tuning on the weekend it occured to me agian, a bow and arrow is a simple predictable machine, and can be altered to behave to compliment the archer...trick is to get the archer to behave too..that's a topic for John M. though...and he's right but I think each archer should play with their equipment and tune it way out and bring it back, makes you appreciate when the arrows fly so sweet...

cheers


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