# High poundage recurves?



## voodoofire1 (Jan 24, 2006)

Hello and welcome!

I shoot the heavy stuff too, and really wish I could help you out, but Dave Windour at Schafer (silvertip) is the only one I personally know of that will build 80+ and stand behind it.......but they are a tad bit more than $400..... and good luck finding anything used too, I have attended many shoots and looked at a bunch of bows in the last 7 years and I have yet to see a used recurve 80# or more........I ended up building my own heavy stuff as I really got tired of hearing no, or "I don't build over 70#".........Good luck to you....


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

It sounds to me like you just have a poor longbow. I had similiar results with my old 80-90# selfbows before I learned about proper design. They would really sling a 600 gr. arrow... but no faster than one of my new 60-65# hybrid longbows. In the end I was doing a lot more work for no extra power, and it hurt my accuracy in the long run. When I dropped down to 60-65# I thought, "OK, this is too easy..." but after a while I starting shooting so much more accurately and with the same power that it just shocked me. I could also shoot the 65# weight all day, no problem.

I guess what I'm trying to get at it don't overlook hybrid longbows and recurves in the 65-70# range. I beleive you can still get the Martin Hunter Recurve in 70#, and that is a FAST bow. At 70# I have the feeling it will really give you some speed and power.


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## voodoofire1 (Jan 24, 2006)

"I believe a number of custom recurve bowyers will build you one like that on special order".........
Well Kegan you sure peaked my interest, Can you give us the names of some custom bowyers that will build a special order 80# recurve for $400?........I'm about to tears knowing all the effort I put into searching for then learning how to build my own heavy stuff could have been avoided for just $400 and the right phone call........


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## Clintplan (Apr 19, 2012)

*83# @ 28"*

There was a used Black Widow 83# @ 28" hanging on the wall at Three Rivers Archery in Ashley last week. Dont remember the length or the price but it was a nice looking bow. Check the Three Rivers website under the Trading Post, maybe the bow is listed there.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Ethan -

I'm afraid I have a couple of shocks for you. 

The BP cougar is a dog as far as speed is concerned. It was an entry level bow when it was produced and by today's standards, it's not a bad bow to learn on, but not stellar by any means. (I've had several in my youth.) Since you think it's faster than your 80# LB speaks volumes.

Standard or "D" style LBs are fairly inefficient, and so are most bows in the weight range you're dealing with. Hybrid or R/D LBs are more similar to recurves in performance and should be considered as such. Most std recurves peak in efficiency in the 55# to (maybe) 60# range. Beyond that the added limb mass just slows them down, relatively speaking. Remember the arrow has no idea how much weight YOU are pulling, it only knows the acceleration it's experiencing. The fastest modern bows are typically in the 45-50# range with appropriate arrows. Just to be clear, a GOOD 50# shooting a 500 gr arrow will USUALLY be faster than an 80# bow shooting an 800 gr arrow. In some cases, that same 50# bow will shoot the same 500 gr arrow faster than the same arrow from an 80# bow. All depends on when the limb mass over-rides or begins to hinder the acceleration. 

If you are comfortable with the weights you're using, I wouldn't tell you to stop, but performance wise, odds are you're not gaining anything. In fact, you're actually loosing. Point is, you can find bowyers who will make any weight you want, just don't be surprised if a guy shooting 30# less is shooting a faster arrow or at least just as fast an arrow as you are. 

As far as using archery in the weight ranges you're discussing being "good exercise", I'd have to disagree there too. While there might be a fair amount of muscle exertion being used, it's a decidedly asymmetrical. Evidence from cadavers of english longbowmen on the Mary Rose, showed a common shoulder deformity. 

Again, if you're happy with what you're doing, I wouldn't tell you to stop. Just understand what the real pro and cons are. 

Viper1 out.


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## GPW (May 12, 2012)

Comparing longbows and recurves is like apples and oranges ... two different bows for different purpose ... Real longbows having the ability /leverage to be able to cast ridiculously Heavy arrows at decent speed, the range(as Artillery) adjusted by adding poundage , as Viper said to very heavy poundage , causing body deformation over time .. And in the lighter weights (hint hint) are very Stable for target shooting , for me anyway ... 
Recurves shoot light arrows Very Fast and Flat ... also good for target shooting , but your “form” better be Good ... Not as ‘forgiving” as a LB. 
The Hybrid Reflex/Deflex longbow being an idea marriage of speed vs. Stability ... JMHO 

Heavy recurves are good , if you can control them ... wouldn’t want to shoot one all day , but for Hunting ... Hmmm?


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

GPW - 

Not really sure where the myth about LBs being more forgiving than recurves, but I have a hunch, so here goes. A guy named Hill said that over 1/2 a century ago. Back then a stacked longbow had more of what's called "torsional stability" than recurves of the day. Not exactly true anymore. Even entry level recurves, at least the entry level ILF limbs are quite stable and forgive a lot of shooter error. Their added mass and more contoured grips also help the shooter be steadier on target. Now, that may be considered "just theory", but in practice why do most organization have a separate longbow class? It's not because the LBs have a significant advantage, which would be the case if they were more forgiving.

Don't get me wrong, there are a number of people who are very good with LBs (mostly the R/D types, these days), and can keep up with the recurve guys and even best them on occasion. Overall the recurve shooters typically do shoot a bit better than the LB guys and, IMHO, have an easier time with it. 

Viper1 out.


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## Mo0se (Sep 24, 2002)

I'm a real world example when comparing recurves to Longbows..I agree the recurve is easier to shoot for me...not because of draw weight either. Longbows have several things that take away from stability. 

1. Mass weight (lack thereof)
2. Grip style (small locator in my case)
3. Being non-center cut 1/8" past center

That's what I've experienced. I'd also be willing to bet the R/D longbow I shoot, [email protected] Bamboo Viper + full length carbon on the back is within 10fps of the Black Widow recurve I have. The chrono will tell me soon enough. The 30# Widow shoots an almost 300 gr. arrow 186 FPS. The Viper [email protected] shooting a 450 gr. woodie is in the ballpark of that number as well. Will verify with the chrono this week.


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## GPW (May 12, 2012)

Viper , please excuse me for being so OLD , all my experiences with recurves have been the older style hunting recurves, and not the new computer designed Olympic target bows , which as one would expect , would be perfect in every way , save the shooter ... 

Traditional archery is so Vague , so all encompassing that it really covers a lot of territory and range ... hunting , Target shooting , *Intensely* competitive Target shooting , stump/backyard/Fun shooting ... all the same , yet all very different ... somewhat confusing for we “geezers” who are behind the times in the latest eqpt. ... 
All I know (opinion) is that for a long bow to be Stable , it has to be really long (man tall) to be effective. Used one (homemade) for years to win Meat and Medals (shooting the “Foam Deer” ) ...Comfortable bow to shoot , not That fast with 800g arrows ..shoot where you look (but that’s just me, and some time ago ) And my 56# RD 21st Century will shoot a light carbon arrow over 200fps... and dead accurate too ... not a recurve (but sorta’) not a long bow at only 66” ... my Best performing bow ...Fast as any recurve around here ... JMHO


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

If the OP draws 28" doesn't mind being his own warrenty then there shouldn't be too much issue getting some Long ILF limbs at ~50# and putting them on one of the faster Warf risers. Should be able to get 60# and MUCH faster than anything else he's shooting.

Or her could just get Kegan to make him an RD bow.

-Grant


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

GPW - 

I started shooting in the late 60's and most of my best memories are from the 70's. I got my first Hill in 75, a 73#, 70" Tembo All of my Hills are 70", but I have a few "knock-offs that re 68". I really enjoyed shooting those bows and did pretty well with them. Even back then, there was no real comparison between the Hills and the better recurves of the day. 

Talking about bows like the 21st century, opens a whole 'nother kettle 'o fish. The RD design and some of the materials used really do make it more of a recurve than a longbow in the traditional sense (small "t"). I recall one LB champ proudly displaying his new longbow. Carbon core limbs, locator grip and I believe a metal rod in the riser for "rigidity" (right). Great bow, but about as much of a LB as my Olympic bow. 

There are some excellent bows out there that meet various orgs requirements for the LB class, but the blanket statement that LBs are more forgiving or more stable than recurves is what I have a little bit of a problem with. That's all.

Viper1 out.


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

Well, if you really like high poundage why not also go for high performance? I shot with a guy shooting 70# Border Hex 5 limbs on a short, trad ILF riser and boy did that thing shoot flat. I have no idea what the chrono numbers were, but with that kind of flat shooting rig you really get a lot more fudge factor in your distance estimations, not that I'm ever, ever wrong in estimating distance :embara:


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## EthanJM (Jun 11, 2012)

I really appreciate so many responses, from what I have been gathering, English longbows/warbows back in the day would sometimes be so high in draw weight, simple because they had to be, they were not as an efficient of a spring. However, them all being 150# seems to be somewhat of a myth, they existed, but whether that was the norm is debatable. After about 120# of draw, you don't get much more velocity, instead of extra kinetic energy, you just get a lot of waste heat energy. I have no personal experience with bows of this poundage though, just saying what I learned somewhere sometime (sorry I have no sources). I read a while back that there is about a 20% difference in efficiency when comparing longbows to recurves, I am sure that number is quite variable though depending on the bows you compare. If I cannot find one that goes beyond 70# in my price range, I can settle for that. I will start looking online, if anyone has any suggestions I would be glad to hear. As for not gaining velocity after 60#/70#, certainly that can't be the peak with recurves is it?

My 80lb longbow is shooting 600 grain arrows at a modest pace, I am not sure exactly how fast, I do not have a chronograph, but I do know a rudimentary way of figuring velocity without one. You put up your target, and stand at a mark at a specified distance away from the target, say 20 feet or less. Record some shooting with a decent camera, and put that recording on audio recording software (like audacity). You can clearly hear, and see on the software, where each shot begins, and hits, and there is a timer. Average the times for a few shots that it takes the arrow to hit the target, do some math, and there you should have your fps. Probably not perfectly accurate, but also probably accurate within a few fps I would say. I did this a while back, I believe I was getting about 140 fps (I should have saved the information). However, after being shot thousands of times, my longbow has some string follow now, I am not sure how much poundage it has lost, but it doesn't feel like 80#. 
I know the Ben Pearson Cougar is not a remarkable bow (easily worth 5 bucks though!), but it seems pretty fast in my opinion. I have seen and shot other modern recurves, they all shot something like this one, very smooth, very little hand shock, and fast. I will use the above method to determine the velocity on both 400 grain and 600 grain arrows, even do my longbow. Should have results later today.


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## MAC 11700 (Feb 22, 2011)

My advise..

Give Jim Neeves a call at Centaur Archery...(406) 360-2153..he can and will build you something that not only is a work of art in this poundage..but I know will out shoot many regular recurves..This would be a 54" - 62 " hybrid reflex/deflex long bow..

http://www.centaurarchery.com/bow-woods.htm#Bow-Gallery

While not a true recurve..it will do and act like one..and usually are much quieter as well..and I have seen his build quality...they are awesome..It's going to be a little more than $400...but if your wanting something really nice..I would go this route..

Mac


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## rembrandt (Jan 17, 2004)

No doubt Centaur makes some beautiful stuff like the Indigo Royal or the Osage limb bows.........


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## EthanJM (Jun 11, 2012)

Got the results, I went ahead and threw in an old 1950's all aluminum take down recurve as well, 60# @ 28", it is a Par-x Chieftain. I averaged up six shots on each test from 20 feet, did the math, and you get the velocity. 
The 50# Ben Pearson Cougar 7050 recurve shot 400 grain arrows an average of 167.36 fps, and 600 grain arrows an average of 137.93 fps.
The 80# longbow (probably 70# now from string follow) shot 400 grain arrows an average of 152.67 fps, and 600 grain arrows an average of 133.69 fps. 
The 60# aluminum Par-x Chieftain shot 400 grain arrows an average of 160.64 fps, and 600 grain arrows an average of 140.35 fps.

Very interesting results in my opinion, pound per pound the Ben Pearson Cougar is clearly the best. My all hickory 74" longbow is not very efficient, and seems to have lost poundage. I did this test a year ago, I am pretty sure it was shooting the 600 grain arrows a tad over 140 fps. I guess considering I have shot it thousands of times, and it is a primitive self bow, it makes sense. I just hope it won't continue to lose poundage. 

Thanks for the suggestions and help. I will be doing research going on your leads.


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## guyver (Jan 3, 2012)

MAC 11700 said:


> My advise..
> 
> Give Jim Neeves a call at Centaur Archery...(406) 360-2153..he can and will build you something that not only is a work of art in this poundage..but I know will out shoot many regular recurves..This would be a 54" - 62 " hybrid reflex/deflex long bow..
> 
> ...


Isn't the wait time for a centaur like a year or so? Not that I don't want one. Who knows where you'll be in a year though. Just throwing that out there


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## thorwulfx (Sep 26, 2011)

To give you some clarity of thought here, my Omega 63# shoots a 430 grain arrow (the lightest I dared, and only for testing purposes) 209 fps, and a 562 gr. arrow 189.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

My 39# recurve spits 300gr arrows at 197FPS. Anything is going to be an improvement from those bows.

-Grant


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Ethan -



> Got the results, I went ahead and threw in an old 1950's all aluminum take down recurve as well, 60# @ 28", it is a Par-x Chieftain.


You realize, of course, that bow is an accident waiting to happen right? Metal fatigues and fails. That's why they stopped making metal limbed bows. 

BTW - After WWII some of those bow were made from dismantled bombers. Nice piece of history, but not a good idea to shoot. 

Viper1 out.


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## Dewey3 (May 6, 2012)

Viper1 said:


> Ethan -
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You mean ... the bow might "bomb" ??? LOL!

Sounds like the bow is better off as a wall hanging collector item !


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Viper1 said:


> Ethan -
> 
> 
> 
> ...


didn't know that. Is that true with all metal bows? I saw a really cool-looking anodized aluminum long bow. Shot it once. Are there warning signs, or do they just go 'poof'?


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

thorwulfx said:


> To give you some clarity of thought here, my Omega 63# shoots a 430 grain arrow (the lightest I dared, and only for testing purposes) 209 fps, and a 562 gr. arrow 189.


I'm shooting my 62# Omega with a 430 gr. carbon and after tuning am getting 214-215 fps if I don't under draw (shooting those arrows solely at this point and so far the bow doesn't seem to mind either).

It sounds like your 80# selfbow isn't just a case of "longbow inefficiency" it sounds like the fellow building it didn't really know what he was doing. I built a number of hickory flatbows that were only 5-10 fps slower than your average recurve of the same weight with the same arrow, they also didn't lose weight over time or develope more and more string follow. It just sounds like a bad bow. At 50#, one of my Omegas will shoot a 400 gr arrow at 190 fps or better, and I've seen a lot of new recurves and hybrids that are shooting as fast or faster than my bows (though mine are quick). 

Voodoo, I corrected my post, and had replied without seeing that $400 limit. I was just going off of what others had been writing about here and there concerning custom builders they knew. Really reliable info, huh?:lol:


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Barney -

From what I understand, they just go without warning. I'm sure a metallurgist might see some warning signs, but most shooters won't. They are great wall hangings given their history, but I wouldn't want to be shooting one for any length of time.

Viper1 out.


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## EthanJM (Jun 11, 2012)

I know I know, I have read all these warning before. I took it to a day out of archery with friends one day, I made it very clear that if there is any bow you don't want to dry fire, it is this one, so be careful! There were quite a few novices there, and sure enough, it was dry fired when an arrow was not properly nocked on the string. Made me cringe. It isn't fired that often, and from what I hear, they normally only exploded in the cold. There is really no hard proof about these bows failing in such a violent manner, but it makes sense, it is hard tempered aluminum. My fiancee loves it, it amazes me how strong she is, though she pulling a bit too much shooting that bow, she can only shoot a couple of groups and stops. She wants to shoot on the edge of what she can handle, I convinced her it is a good idea to learn form, follow through, and accuracy first and build your strength up doing it. She is shooting my first bow now, a 35# bear recurve, accuracy is improving faster. What I didn't tell you guys, there is a second Ben Pearson Cougar bought at that yard sale, 45# @ 28", also five bucks. Not in the best shape, but still functions fine, when she is ready she can move to that. I will attempt to refurbish it a bit in the meantime, and put artificial sinew reinforcement on the nocks where there is heavy wear. The poor thing was also strung backwards when we got it...

Still deciding on the recurve to get. I don't want to wait a year though by special ordering one. Looks like the border bows have to be special made as well. It is expensive, but it looks like the martin hunter recurve is the only one in the poundage I want. What do you guys think of it? Any 70#s that are cheaper?


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## EthanJM (Jun 11, 2012)

I am pretty sure I want to go with a Martin bow, and I mostly considering the Mamba. I am confused though, I read they make it up to 70#, but on their site it says 40#-65#, as does 3rivers. Did they stop making them in 70#? If you look at the Hunter, their site says 40#-65# as well, but on 3rivers you can order them at 70#.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

They once made me 70# limbs for an older Hatfield. I'm sure they could custom build one for you. Call and ask them.


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## thorwulfx (Sep 26, 2011)

Ethan, 

Martin can make limbs for the Hunter up to 75# on special order. I've seen 'em in the classifieds here and there. I would imagine that the Mamba would be the same.


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## Forrest Halley (Jul 24, 2011)

My "[email protected]" recurve is doing just fine with a 750 grain arrow. Right at 190 to 200 fps. ELBs are going to be slower. Enjoy shooting whatever you like and don't let anyone convince you to drop weight unless you want to. The experts will all say lower is better, but I am a fan of horsepower.


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

thorwulfx said:


> Martin can make limbs for the Hunter up to 75# on special order. I've seen 'em in the classifieds here and there. I would imagine that the Mamba would be the same.


I have a Hunter that is 75lbs. at 28" that I would be willing to sell...if someone really wanted it.

Ray :shade:


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## thorwulfx (Sep 26, 2011)

Ray, 

I have a 65# Hunter that'll soon come through the mail. What's your impression of the hunters in heavier weights? They generally get lauded as fast and sweet bows, but I'd love to hear any thoughts you had about 'em.

Thanks,

Patrick


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## EthanJM (Jun 11, 2012)

I had a tough time deciding between the two myself, the Mamba is suppose to have a little more power, but the Hunter being four inches longer is more stable thus has a smaller learning curve. As much as I shoot though, I will be able to master the Mamba, and I find a shorter length appealing. But it was close, who knows, still might go for the Hunter. How much do you want for it Black Wolf? Were you the first owner? Condition of the bow? Age? Usage? I feel like I am leaning for the Mamba, but it is still worth thinking about.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

I don't know if it is common, but have seen quite a few mambas come through a friends shop with twisted limbs. Hunters have seemed solid. Between the two, i'd lean towards the hunter.


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## EthanJM (Jun 11, 2012)

I thought limb twisting was the result of improper care. Stringing too long, stringing backwards, improper storage, etc.


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## EthanJM (Jun 11, 2012)

I am 6' 00", according to the yardstick test where you put a yardstick on your sternum, and reach as far as you can. I have a draw that goes just over 29". However, with my form, I probably normally draw 28", I notice my bow arm is not perfectly rigid during a draw, but it works for me, I am bringing it up because the Mamba is suppose to stack a lot after 28". Now I am reading a little about the Mambas having limb twist, seems what you said has some validity. I read it is a good idea to use a bow stringer. I didn't know what one was until just now researching it! I always string through the legs, sure with recurves it can be a pain in the shin sometimes, but could it twist the limbs? I keep my bows up on a gun rack. I also try not to leave them laying in the sun. You got me worried, I do not have much money, this is a massive investment for me, whichever bow I get, I want to know it will be my bow for many years, possibly a lifetime.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

EthanJM said:


> I am 6' 00", according to the yardstick test where you put a yardstick on your sternum, and reach as far as you can. I have a draw that goes just over 29". However, with my form, I probably normally draw 28", I notice my bow arm is not perfectly rigid during a draw, but it works for me, I am bringing it up because the Mamba is suppose to stack a lot after 28". Now I am reading a little about the Mambas having limb twist, seems what you said has some validity. I read it is a good idea to use a bow stringer. I didn't know what one was until just now researching it! I always string through the legs, sure with recurves it can be a pain in the shin sometimes, but could it twist the limbs? I keep my bows up on a gun rack. I also try not to leave them laying in the sun. You got me worried, I do not have much money, this is a massive investment for me, whichever bow I get, I want to know it will be my bow for many years, possibly a lifetime.


Step through can and will twist recurve limbs. Use a stringer.


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## EthanJM (Jun 11, 2012)

What if done properly? The step though method has most likely been used since bows were invented 64,000 years ago. Composite recurves have been around before ancient Rome.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

The composite bows of which you speak are most definitely NOT strung with the step-through method. They is actually a set of fixtures which are lashed to the limbs after they are warmed slighty over a heat source which gets the initial bend. From there they can be slowly work into brace.

-Grant


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## rsb_924 (Mar 11, 2006)

EthanJM said:


> Hello everyone. This is a long post, sorry about that, just wanted to make things clear on my first post.
> I am an avid target shooter, I currently shoot an 80# longbow @ 28", I am quite use to this poundage (though I suspect my longbow dropped in poundage due to thousands of shots). I would like to have a recurve bow, I love longbows but I want to have something that shoots at a higher velocity. Recurves store energy more efficiently. I just bought an old Ben Pearson Cougar 7050 50# @28" at a yardsale for five bucks, what a steal! I noticed when shooting it, it really puts arrow down range much faster than I am use to with my longbow. I was using 400 grain carbon arrows, and it made sense it could shoot the 400 grain carbon arrows quicker, even quicker than my longbow shoots them (I tested those arrows with my longbow to compare), but what really surprised me, was when I tested it out with my arrows I use for my longbow, 600 grain 23/64" wooden arrows, it was able to shoot them just as fast as my longbow, which has a significantly higher draw. I know modern laminated recurves store energy very efficiently, and spring very fast, so it would shoot the light arrows faster, but I thought the longbow would be able to shove the heavier arrows faster than the recurve would considering it is 30 pounds heavier. I love this new bow, on day one I can put 12 arrows in a 8 inch group at 20 yards (3 arrow groups I might consistently manage 5 inch groups), that is pretty good for day one with the thing, but it just doesn't feel right.
> I love archery in general, and the exercise is gives me is a huge bonus. I can already shoot my longbow for hours at a time, the draw feels just right, not too light, and not so heavy it will effect accuracy and form. If I can comfortably shoot 80#, it doesn't feel right shooting 50#, and if I took a break from my longbow to master the recurve, my muscles use to pulling higher poundage might start to weaken. I am ecstatic just how fast a good 50# modern recurve can shoot, what can an 80# do? I looked at Hungarian recurve horse bows, really considered the kassai Bear for a while, but I am worried it won't shoot as fast as a traditional recurve, I read somewhere that they are not up to par with traditional laminated recurves, must be the design of the limbs. So I am looking at traditional recurves now, but I cannot find one over 65#. I would consider 70#, but really want 80#.
> So, what I could have just asked without the long post... Does anyone know if they sell traditional modern laminated recurve bows that are 80#? If they do, can you point me in that direction? I would like to keep it under 400 bucks, wouldn't be too bothered if I got a used one so long as it was well taken care of.
> As an additional question, who has experience with horse bows? Turkish, Hungarian, Hunnish, Scythian, etc.



here ya go

https://rudderbowsarchery.com/shopp...ducts_id=384&zenid=mqj6k0m0489t9kgt4qa37116a3

Heavy Draw weight English Warbows for the BIG BOYS Starting at: $351.75


These bows are made from 70 pounds on up to 130 pounds of draw weight and are made for the guys who really want some serious punch in thier bows. These are a full 76" in length to accomidate 32" and 33" draw lengths. Will shoot Heavy weighted arrows and cause some serious damage. Can cast 800 1200 grain arrows. Ever wonder about hunting with a bow like this? Heavy monster arrows sink in deep and can penetrate the armor plating on the shoulder of a large size Boar. Thicker and beefier than thier victorian style English longbow cousins. These bows do meet the requirements of the 8-5 thickness to width ratio's set forth by the English Longbow society. 
These are modeled after the monster English longbows used in the days of old in Europe and England to conduct warfare and have the same hard punch today as they ever did back then. Made from solid durable Hickory backed OR bamboo backed hickory. As a special note these also have the option to be backed with a single growth ring hickory backing as well. A single growth ring looks more authentic because it follows the natural contour of the way the tree grew. 

The draw weights avalable come in ten pound increments and are70-80 , 80-90 , 90-100, 100-110, 110-120, 120-130

Draw lengths available from 27" all the way to 33"


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

thorwulfx said:


> What's your impression of the hunters in heavier weights?


I liked 'em. They are very good bows. As they say...they are fast and sweet for an all wood one piece recurve. This Hunter is over 20yrs. old. It was the first recurve I used when I made the switch from compound to trad. When I started looking into trad gear I had fallen in love with Black Widows but couldn't afford one at the time...but the Hunter did win me a few trophies before I did end up getting my Widow.

Ray :shade:


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

EthanJM said:


> How much do you want for it Black Wolf? Were you the first owner? Condition of the bow? Age? Usage?


I'm thinking around $125. The bow has more nostaligic value to me...which is why I've held onto it for so long. It doesn't get shot much and should be in the hands of someone who will shoot it more than I am. I wasn't the first owner. I bought it about 20yrs. ago from a local archery shop in Illinois. The bow's in good condition...other than a few scratches. I've only shot it a few times per year after I got my Black Widow...but it did help me win a few 3D tournaments.

Ray :shade:


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## thorwulfx (Sep 26, 2011)

Ray, 

Thanks. I just got a 65# Hunter today. Man, what a sweetheart. Shoots very easy and predictably. It's like an old friend the first time you shoot it. I can see how the design has stayed around for a while.

Cheers,

Patrick


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

BLACK WOLF said:


> I'm thinking around $125. The bow has more nostaligic value to me...which is why I've held onto it for so long. It doesn't get shot much and should be in the hands of someone who will shoot it more than I am. I wasn't the first owner. I bought it about 20yrs. ago from a local archery shop in Illinois. The bow's in good condition...other than a few scratches. I've only shot it a few times per year after I got my Black Widow...but it did help me win a few 3D tournaments.
> 
> Ray :shade:


Sounds like a pretty sweet deal to me... I'm kind of surprised you're willing to sell it for that much, given nostalgic value. I know that being 20 years old, it's probably not fast flight compatible, but it's also got that nice vintage cred, and still probably a great shooting piece. If I had any intention of shooting much in the 75# range in the near future, i'd try to jump in line.


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## EthanJM (Jun 11, 2012)

I suppose I can order a bow stringer then if you all think it is really that necessary. I am new to recurves after all, been a longbow shooter for eight years since I was 16 (the whole time I have been doing archery). I will go to 3rivers and get one today. 



BLACK WOLF said:


> I'm thinking around $125. The bow has more nostaligic value to me...which is why I've held onto it for so long. It doesn't get shot much and should be in the hands of someone who will shoot it more than I am. I wasn't the first owner. I bought it about 20yrs. ago from a local archery shop in Illinois. The bow's in good condition...other than a few scratches. I've only shot it a few times per year after I got my Black Widow...but it did help me win a few 3D tournaments.
> 
> Ray :shade:


Black Wolf, I am interested, I shoot almost every day except in the winter so it will see plenty of use. It is also a good poundage, I was originally looking to get an 80# bow, then was going to settle for 70#, considering how much string follow my longbow has, 75# is most likely what I am use to. Could you PM me?


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

BarneySlayer said:


> Sounds like a pretty sweet deal to me... I'm kind of surprised you're willing to sell it for that much, given nostalgic value.


I just think it's a waste to keep this bow when someone would love to be shooting it. I much rather see it get some use than hold onto it any longer.

The chances of passing this onto any family member or friend who might be able to shoot it is slim to non.

Ray :shade:


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## jtbillionaire (Jan 19, 2014)

you can buy an 80# traditional recurve on ebay and amazon from longbowmaker for 150. bought one myself. love it.


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## Bobman (Dec 18, 2004)

the fastest recurve I've personally seen is a quillian canebrake, I sold mine recently 68# because of a heart issue I have. I hated to sell it, it was so flat shooting you had to see it to believe it. Made my 70# super Kodiaks look slow.


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