# Dremel Arrow Saw?



## kjr1995 (May 21, 2014)

I've used one to cut arrows before. It works but it isn't the cleanest. I had to go in little chunks of about 1/4-1/2 inch to not break the cutting blade. Just take your time.


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## WhoKnows (Dec 19, 2006)

I use a Ozito Dremel clone, has worked fine so far on wood, aluminium and carbon arrows.


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## Irish Sitka (Jul 2, 2009)

*Dremmel cutting saw.*

I made this for myself, on a hinge, works well.


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## EnglishKev (Aug 8, 2009)

Irish Sitka said:


> I made this for myself, on a hinge, works well.


That's a nice one.
I did a simple build, static dremel, stop for length held in place with a G clamp, rotate the shaft against the cutting disc to cut.
Finish with an ASD.

Kev


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## Blacktailbustr (Jan 12, 2012)

I made one with my dremel on a hinge as well. I just got it as square as I could but i use the g5 asd to finish em off. Works great and a heck of a lot better than buying an arrow saw


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## thegreathoe (Sep 4, 2013)

I used one... I chucked the arrow through the headstock on my taig lathe... then slowly spun the head while cutting with my dremel cut off wheel... made a really nice square edge


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## kerrye (Sep 1, 2010)

See the post in "Arrow Saw Speed" about using a lathe to spin the shaft and cutting off with a dremel or ryobi tool.


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## remingtonJK (Oct 3, 2013)

cheap and easy. Push arrow into blade to cut then twist against the end of cutoff wheel 
to square.


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## Tacitus (Oct 14, 2012)

Don't have any pictures but I throw my arrows into my mini lathe and don't tighten the chuck jaws to tight or you'll crush the arrow but from there i have a pencil attachment for my dremel which i then attach it square to everything on the tool head and run it in like you were cutting something on the lathe and it cuts it perfectly square just measure off your arrow with tape so you know where your cutting!


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## Jennings (Aug 17, 2005)

Here is mine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Krn0ZNFBlRQ


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## Wenty (Jan 6, 2012)

All the arrows I build are cut with a dremel. I mark the shafts...don't have a jig. Hold and cut...leave them a hair long. Doesnt matter if the cut isnt perfect. I made a squaring device... square em and bring them to finished length. Simple...effective. squaring device is a 4x4" block of hardwood. It has 4 holes drilled of different sizes for different shaft diameter. Drilled in a press to maintain square. Place a piece of sandpaper under it. Insert the shaft and roll it between your hands...sands em square and to length rather efficiently!!


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

Mine isn't exactly a "Dremel", $10 hobby grinder... I've cut many dozens of arrows, most successfully. Thick walled arrows take time, don't need to force them to cut.


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## boatsman (Jan 8, 2015)

Does any one tape the end of the shaft to keep the shaft from splintering or chipping? Cut graphite golf club shafts with a die grinder before the tape worked beautifully.


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## AzizaVFR (Jan 28, 2014)

This is the best blade for a dremel tool I have found for cutting aluminum or carbon tubes:

Dremel EZ Lock EZ545 1.5" diamond blade


It is the largest and thinnest blade I have found for cutting. I have it mounted to a wand I purchased from a local nail supply store. It works much better and the cable is much more flexible than the dremel brand units. 



Ideally, you want to cut the shaft only from one side and rotate it through the cut. This will help square up the cut, and sand the surface removing any burrs. You can see how deep I am talking with a cut-off of an Easton Fatboy arrow. 



The blade protrusion is tall enough to cut any arrow wall, along with the carbon tubes I used to make stabilizers, up to 0.122" wall thickness.


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## caspian (Jan 13, 2009)

AzizaVFR, I like that very much. the best part for me is the angled support to hold the shaft where it touches the blade.... you can just drop the shaft in and rotate it at the same depth and angle of presentation very easily.

here is a timber version I made with a new-to-archery friend a few years ago. http://technorantia.blogspot.com.au/2010/05/arrow-saw-wot-merv-and-i-made.html

the shelf in front of the blade means you can walk the shaft into the blade and rotate it, which as you say gives the best results. if he adds a lateral stop it would be much the same as yours provides. the "tailstock" is even offset by the radius of the blade to present the shaft to the blade as squarely as possible.

combined with a thin cutoff blade this has been cutting all manner of shafts fine for several years now.


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## caspian (Jan 13, 2009)

AzizaVFR, I like that very much. the best part for me is the angled support to hold the shaft where it touches the blade.... you can just drop the shaft in and rotate it at the same depth and angle of presentation very easily.

here is a timber version I made with a new-to-archery friend a few years ago. http://technorantia.blogspot.com.au/2010/05/arrow-saw-wot-merv-and-i-made.html

the shelf in front of the blade means you can walk the shaft into the blade and rotate it, which as you say gives the best results. if he adds a lateral stop it would be much the same as yours provides. the "tailstock" is even offset by the radius of the blade to present the shaft to the blade as squarely as possible.

combined with a thin cutoff blade this has been cutting all manner of shafts fine for several years now.


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## bonecollector66 (Mar 2, 2011)

tag


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## Pittstate23 (Dec 27, 2010)

Blacktailbustr said:


> I made one with my dremel on a hinge as well. I just got it as square as I could but i use the g5 asd to finish em off. Works great and a heck of a lot better than buying an arrow saw
> View attachment 2047449
> View attachment 2047450
> View attachment 2047451


i like that build


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## caspian (Jan 13, 2009)

I would rather cut the shafts square in the first place using a simple and established method, rather than at a bevel then try to square them.

if you're using the saw like a chopsaw, you are using a poor method.


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## deerhunter7273 (Mar 22, 2010)

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1265893


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## BisonHammer (Feb 9, 2011)

This is the saw I made last fall. Been meaning to write up a build thread, but haven't gotten around to it. I used the Dremel 8220 (5K-30K rpm) with the diamond cutoff wheel. All of the parts, minus the wood, were ordered from McMaster-Carr (~$80). Most of the parts are t-slot framing brackets with only a couple small modifications. Let me know if anyone wants more details or if you want a whole build write-up.


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