# Beiter Nock orientation



## gma (Aug 22, 2012)

Hi,

I've been setting up a new set of arrows, and I thought I'd share an interesting anecdote for the other newbies out there. (Most of you will already know this I'm guessing).

My arrows are X7s with Beiter 12/2 (g) nocks. I noticed the nocks are slightly asymmetrical, with more "slant" on one side that the other. They didn't come with any instructions from Lancaster. I didn't think much of this, thinking it was probably more cosmetic than functional, but went ahead and set up all the nocks so the slant was in the same orientation.

After shooting a few ends I was getting more "fliers" than usual. I'm shooting new limbs too, so chalked it up to needing to get used to the new setup. But after a while I noticed I was consistently getting one really bad flier per end - sometimes way high, but more often way low. I started tracking that arrow, and sure enough, it was always #2. It looked straight, fletches were good, nock was straight and well seated. Odd. Couple more ends and the pattern continued - #2 wouldn't group. So I took a really close look, comparing #2 to the rest of the arrows. Finally I saw the difference - I had the nock upside-down compared to the rest. I twisted it 180 deg, and bingo - #2 was happy like the rest of the arrows!

Wow - amazing how this very tiny difference meant consistent 6/7 compared to 9/10 (at 18m on a 40cm face).

Sure enough, the nocks are intended to be installed one way (more slanted side up):
http://www.wernerbeiter.com/en/informations/tips_tricks/Tipps_NO_GB.pdf

Gene


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## DWAA Archer (Oct 14, 2011)

Oh yes got to have the Beiter logo facing up!!! you should see a slight improvement in sight marks but only a small one. 
Also with the nocks being asymmetric you can ditch the index vane and have them all the same colour will save you a little money on bags of vanes.

Shoot well


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## lksseven (Mar 21, 2010)

"slant goes on the top side", is what I was told to do.


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## KenYeoh (Feb 21, 2010)

Be careful when fletching these! Without a nock adapter, sometimes what can happen is that the vanes don't get put on at 120 degree angles because of the asymmetric nock!


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## gma (Aug 22, 2012)

KenYeoh said:


> Be careful when fletching these! Without a nock adapter, sometimes what can happen is that the vanes don't get put on at 120 degree angles because of the asymmetric nock!


Interesting! I did fletch with these nocks...I'll have to check and watch for this in the future.
Thanks!
Gene


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

Beiter makes an adapter to fit the fletching jig just to compensate for the assymetric nockbed.

Beiter nocks are a brilliant design. Easy way to make sure you're nocking them right-side-up is to do what I do for my daughter - take a sharpie and put a "dot" on top. Problem solved.

John


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## KenYeoh (Feb 21, 2010)

Limbwalker, I used the pin-out nocks for a while, but they started to shatter at the base (where they touch the bushing) and I replaced them with Easton nocks.
Is there any way to stop this from happening?

Alternatively, how do you secure the Beiter nocks (not the pin out) without glue? I've heard using dental floss but never could figure it out.


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## Jean-M'arc (Oct 10, 2012)

I also notice that the Beiter pin-out nock is fragile at the base and often it does not really show but there is a tiny crack that allows the nock to "turn" very subtly and the arrow is flying not the way you wanted to... I switch to Beiter pin nocks and voilà! no more problems ;-)


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## chrstphr (Nov 23, 2005)

KenYeoh said:


> Alternatively, how do you secure the Beiter nocks (not the pin out) without glue? I've heard using dental floss but never could figure it out.




i use dental floss to hold my beiter nocks on. You cut a piece of dental floss about 1/2 inch or less. You lay it on the end of the shaft covering the back of the shaft hole and push the nock over it onto the shaft. If you have any hanging floss sticking out from the end of the nock, just trim it. 


Chris


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## DIV (Apr 12, 2012)

I have Beiter in-out nocks and live them. Yes, slant up.
A couple weeks ago before I had them, I asked my friend to try rotating his and shoot them upside down (slant down). 
They were consistently high. My friend was blown away and said "is that all I need to do to get sight mark?!"....ha!


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## jhinaz (Mar 1, 2003)

KenYeoh said:


> Alternatively, how do you secure the Beiter nocks (not the pin out) without glue? I've heard using dental floss but never could figure it out.


I use chrstphr's method, except I use a short piece of teflon tape instead of dental floss....everything else is the same. - John


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

Yes, teflon tape if necessary, works great.

If you don't know what teflon tape is, you need to do more plumbing. LOL! 

Ken, I only used the Beiter pin-out nocks for a short while. I never had problems with cracking, but again, didn't use them very long either. Sorry. I don't know what could have been the cause of that.

John


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## KenYeoh (Feb 21, 2010)

Alright, thanks guys. I could use a refresher now - I've only shot with pins, and my question is how moving to less weight at the back of the arrow will affect arrow tune. Will it make it weak or stiff?
I know that I've seen the answer before and have tried to search but it seems that the forum only holds the last 7 pages of posts!

I ask because right now I'm shooting 29" 520 ACE's at 47# and they are tuning very well...
However, I recently purchased 550 X10's cut to 30/31" and would very much like to shoot these for outdoor season..
I have a bit of money to burn and am likely going to end up buying uukha limbs, and am wondering if I should get 38# or 40# (currently shooting 40#)


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## chrstphr (Nov 23, 2005)

pins in the back stiffen the arrow slightly, shooting without a pin may weaken it slightly. I doubt either will really make that much difference on the spine. I have switched between both easton pin nocks and the bieter nocks. The only thing that really changes is the length of the arrow total. Moving the clicker slightly puts it all back the same. I could not tell a difference between the two.


Chris


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## Jean-M'arc (Oct 10, 2012)

limbwalker said:


> Yes, teflon tape if necessary, works great.
> 
> If you don't know what teflon tape is, you need to do more plumbing. LOL!
> 
> ...


For me, it was the slightest hit from an other arrow that would crack the base of the pin-out nock. Also, I was told that translucent colors are less sturdy then solid ones, any thoughts on that statement?


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## rick11743 (Sep 20, 2010)

chrstphr said:


> i use dental floss to hold my beiter nocks on. You cut a piece of dental floss about 1/2 inch or less. You lay it on the end of the shaft covering the back of the shaft hole and push the nock over it onto the shaft. If you have any hanging floss sticking out from the end of the nock, just trim it.
> 
> 
> Chris


I use the same procedure, but cut a small piece of material from a poly bag (plastic supermarket bag), just cut the excess material with a razor & yer good to go


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## lksseven (Mar 21, 2010)

KenYeoh,

I'm shooting x10 550 arrows. 25" riser, 42lb medium SKY limbs, screwed almost all the way in; 28-1/4" DL. My x10 shafts, flying at 196fps, are 26-5/8" (not counting the nocks or points).

ps - for my 38lb limbs (F3 Hoyts, which are on the slow side but I don't know an exact fps), the x10 650 arrow shafts are 27-9/16" (not counting nock or point).


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## KenYeoh (Feb 21, 2010)

lksseven said:


> KenYeoh,
> 
> I'm shooting x10 550 arrows. 25" riser, 42lb medium SKY limbs, screwed almost all the way in; 28-1/4" DL. My x10 shafts, flying at 196fps, are 26-5/8" (not counting the nocks or points).
> 
> ps - for my 38lb limbs (F3 Hoyts, which are on the slow side but I don't know an exact fps), the x10 650 arrow shafts are 27-9/16" (not counting nock or point).


Thanks for the numbers! Think that I will go with the 40#'s dialed in fully and cut from the back of the x10's if necessary.


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