# DIY target tips



## saenz1205 (Jan 5, 2015)

I have made targets with a cardboard box and shrink wrap. They hold up good but if your going to shoot that short of a distance make sure you pack the box really good since the arrow will go all the through at that distance If not packed tight. also I put duct tape all around the box to help with deterioration. So the more shrink wrap the better


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## huntster97 (Dec 15, 2014)

so what are you stuffing the box with? this is something im interested in building.


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## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

I have found using old clothing, rags, sheets,or blankets work real well. Just remember to remove any metal, buttons, and zippers, and pack very tight.


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## cjjeepman (Oct 28, 2011)

find a goodwill outlet store and you can get those old clothes for about 80 cents a pound .they stop anything in the shaft form .and a pound is quiet a bit .make a plywood frame ,and I used plastic hardware cloth for the outside to hold the clothes in place .I have also used TYVEC building wrap .it works really good too .I had about 60.00 in mine .I built it about 3 years ago and its still kicking .


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## WIbowhunter (Jan 5, 2005)

I have a third hand archery rag bag I filled with old shrink wrap and it works great. It is about a foot thick, and I haven't had any arrows poke through the back. I have my bag target hanging on a stand and the target can swing a little to absorb some of the shot. If the target you are planning to make will be a stationary target I would think 16" thick should be plenty. Just make sure to pack the shrink wrap in tight. You should have a target that will take thousands of shots and cost little to make.


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## grizzley30814 (Jan 8, 2009)

I just built a carpet stack target/back stop. 3' wide 12" deep. stacked the carpet 38" high and compressed it to 33" using all thread. 2x4 framing. Works great.


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## Castiron (Sep 18, 2012)

I just built this one this evening. 4'x4'x17" deep. 2x2 framing.
I picked up a bunch of lumber wrap from my local lumber yard.

I wrapped it once with the lumber wrap, then wrapped it with round hay bale net (so when the facing gets a large hole it doesn't herneate), then once more with the lumber wrap.
Filling it with feed bags and more lumber wrap, but I ran out, it's about 2/3's full and not packed near as much as I intend to. But I had to shoot it just to see how it works, I was impressed since it wasn't packed real well, I was expecting to burry it. This arrow was shot from less than 10 yds and bow is set on 71#'s
It's light enough I can easily move it around by myself. And total cost was $0.00. It was all scrap material.




























.


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## Pittstate23 (Dec 27, 2010)

looking good!


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

I don't mind the rag bag idea since I can toss it around. Is a pretty strong cover? I would consider putting shrink wrap in the front then clothes in the back, possible something tough in the middle. 

That big one is nice, maybe something I can do for a permanent outdoor target one day. What is lumber wrap? Is it poly fiber similar to the third hand bag?


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

geez the seattle goodwill outlet sells fabric 1.59/lb. That's way higher than I expected.


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## Strider1 (Nov 26, 2014)

I am a fan of compressed carpet. I make them about 3 feet wide, 4 feet high and about 12 inches thick, for the actual target I stuff netting I get off hay bales in feed bags and paint targets on them
They last months shooting up to 200 arrows every day before the bag needs replacing and the netting or old rags just get transferred
The carpet backstop is only a backstop and doesn't take the abuse


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## Strider1 (Nov 26, 2014)

Any frame you build must be protected from a wild shot. An arrow stuck in the wood is very difficult to remove thus I use heavy duty belting stuffed with rags for easy removal


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## Castiron (Sep 18, 2012)

Lumber wrap is someone kinda woven poly I guess. When a lumber yard receives a bunk of 2x' s or what have you it is often wrapped with this. Don't know what third hand uses but it's probably better material than lumber wrap.
I started to do a carpet one as I have plenty access to old carpet and may still. but just didn't want to go to the effort nor the weight.
With the plastic I can always cram more in if it starts getting soft.

If I hit the board or miss, arrow is lost either way. Without the boards to hold shape it would round out like a pillow.
I can lift this thing with one hand.


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

that carpet looks heavy too.


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## Strider1 (Nov 26, 2014)

mendozer said:


> that carpet looks heavy too.


It is heavy but it stays there year round. It is on brick all the way so I don't wear a path in the lawn. It is up to 40 yards and I shoot from under cover, protected.
I have another exactly the same but this one I move with a dolly for shooting 40 to 100 yards but it is on my grass and I am fussy about wear so it is moved every shoot back into the shop
The one is also used for shooting a gun. Above and behind the back stop is a steel plate hanging from the fence. Brass cartridges are place on top the the backstop and shot off using the 40 yard range
Other then swim time it is very convenient having a range set up all the time. I place the bow , spotting scope and arrows out on the covered back deck first thing in the morning and they stay there all day until dark and I shot whenever I feel like doing a round
Spreads the shooting out all day and gives me lots and lots of practice


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

and you just stack strips of carpet (any pile?) and squish them with lumber and acme rods? I feel the acme rods would cost the most out of all of it.


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## Strider1 (Nov 26, 2014)

mendozer said:


> and you just stack strips of carpet (any pile?) and squish them with lumber and acme rods? I feel the acme rods would cost the most out of all of it.


That's it. I overfill the frame about 12 inches with carpet and then pull it down with 4 threaded rods until I can screw the top piece of lumber down to the sides
I have a templete for cutting the carpet and just cut about 100 peaces of whatever I have available, any pile, anything.
The frame is 2 x 10 and well screwed together.


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

Strider1 .. nice carpet target ... and that is quite a brick collection you have there

Mendozer - if you go with a wood frame stuffed with shrink wrap or cloth ... 12" deep is plenty, control the penetration with how tightly you stuff the box.


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

I got some lumber wrap from a nearby lumber yard, looks good. I'm finding it hard to get shrink wrap. No store I call has any. I did see seom styrofoam on craigslist. I know it's not great for longevity, but it's a quick free fix until the better stuff arrives right?


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## BaMBaM_77 (Oct 21, 2013)

I saw a video on the third hand web sight of a guy shooting a cross bow at their rag bag at 10 yards worked just fine. Claims the bag is good for something like 10K shoots

I love mine


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## Castiron (Sep 18, 2012)

mendozer said:


> I got some lumber wrap from a nearby lumber yard, looks good. I'm finding it hard to get shrink wrap. No store I call has any. I did see seom styrofoam on craigslist. I know it's not great for longevity, but it's a quick free fix until the better stuff arrives right?


Typically a store that sells 50# bags of feed, mulch, etc. receives it shrink wrapped on pallets. Ace Hardware, feed stores, Home depot, lowes, walmart, etc.
I don't care for the styrofoam because I don't want the beads making a mess in the yard.


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## Castiron (Sep 18, 2012)

Started to just put circles on with a sharpie and thought about some 3.5" washers I had with a 1" hole.


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## Joseph Quinn (Feb 8, 2015)

The carpet stacks and rag/plastic bag bags work well. I've found moderate success with burlap or synthetic burlap bags for the cheap. 
Alternatively, you could take a look at foam mats like the kind you line your garage with for foot relief. They look like square puzzle pieces and work pretty well when stacked and you can get them cheap at Harbor Freight. 
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-anti-fatigue-foam-mat-set-94635.html

If you don't mind the color, the same thing can be purchased in the wrappings of children's foam mats. 
http://www.amazon.com/Educational-P...=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1423737354&sr=1-4


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## idw (Feb 4, 2015)

I use a cardboard compression form that sits just inside the door the my barn. Stops everything that's been shot at it so far costs about $30 in fitting hardware





the pallet behind it is for the arrows my better half seems to keep shooting over the top.


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

that foam looks rather soft. I would shoot that out in no time.








Made it out of a giant foam block from a shipping company. Wrapped it in lumber wrap which I got free as well. 

I know it's not durable, but it's free and usable right now until I find a new material. 

I got 16" of penetration, which is about double what the archery range's foam one does. So it won't last forever, but I was also shooting from 4 yards away!


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

Box filled with clothes/linen is the best target you'll make. I made mine with a double layer of trampoline material as the face, works great.


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

Do you staple trampoline material to the frame?


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## iluvgear1 (May 9, 2011)

I built one 34x34x12 deep. OSB sides with a 2x3 in each corner. Painted the frame inside and out. Two layers of silt fence on each side with three layers of cardboard inside the facing to control the bulging. I stuffed mine with the plastic bags from animal bedding, shavings. The bags are the type used to package peat moss. If you have a large equestrian operation nearby you can start collecting. I packed it as tight as I could and guess I used about 700 bags. This target is heavy and I have it mounted to a hand truck. Shooting a Mathews Q2 at 70 lbs I get about 6 inches of penetration.


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## graydragon2 (Nov 16, 2014)

Just made one with a 26x30x17 cardboard box that I filled with used carpet padding that I got from the junk pile at a local carpet place. Packed the box full of padding and wrapped with duct tape. Arrows come out with 2-3 fingers. Just gotta wait and see how long it last.


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

Castiron said:


> Started to just put circles on with a sharpie and thought about some 3.5" washers I had with a 1" hole.
> View attachment 2157765


Did you just wrap it around the frame or use chicken wire like some folks to control bulging?


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## Castiron (Sep 18, 2012)

First page post #8 pretty much details what I did.
But no I didn't use chicken wire, I know it's used a lot but I didn't want it scratching my aluminum arrows and it surely can't be good for carbons in the long run.
I used a round haybale wrap to help keep it from herneating as bad if the wrapped facing tears.


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## bbjavelina (Jan 30, 2005)

For you guys that are going to use stretch wrap or discarded clothing for stuffing --- take an old dead piece of carpet and put it next to your box or bag or whatever before you begin stuffing. Without it, the stuffing wants to pull thru whatever you have it in when you pull arrows. . You'll likely double the life of the target with just one wrap of carpet. 

Surplus military duffel bags work pretty good (Cotton, will rot), or 100# feed sacks. 

Living on the Golden Gulf Coast of Texas, with over 40" of rain a year, and Fire Ants, I've never used the clothing stuffing, but had good luck with plastic stuffing. Newspaper covers, Wal-Mart bags, feed sacks, old plastic tarps, whatever. They add up pretty quick if you get family, friends, and neighbors on the project. 

All that having been said, I now use compressed carpet. The original one has been living outdoors for probably five years now. Three foot wide, 4 foot tall, and a foot deep. It has now mildewed to a deep color that the bride no longer complains about and has some sort of plants growing out the top that blends into her garden scheme. Way to heavy to move, but I can shoot it out to 30 and it works great.

Whatever you may choose to use, a piece of stall mat behind it will stop most any arrow dead in it's tracks if you hit a soft spot. It can make pulling a bit difficult, but it's doable. 

Best of luck with whatever you choose.


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

How many pounds of clothes do you think it'll require for a roughly 24" square and 12" deep? 

Because if Goodwill charges 1.59 per pound and I need almost 50 lbs I might just get a blob and build a frame and handle for it.


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## bldtrailer (Feb 2, 2010)




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## Ragman44 (Dec 28, 2014)

bldtrailer said:


>


Love this! very cool.


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## SwampDog32 (Jan 3, 2008)

Anyone ever tried rubber mulch from Home depot or Lowe's in a bag?


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

I looked into that as well. But i figured it'd slowly pour out through the holes...?


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## SwampDog32 (Jan 3, 2008)

Hmm, didn't quite think of that. Let me ponder some ideas.


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## Castiron (Sep 18, 2012)

SwampDog32 said:


> Anyone ever tried rubber mulch from Home depot or Lowe's in a bag?


I thought about it also but was concerned that if it penetrated thru a large enough piece it may be to difficult to pull it out.


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## Strider1 (Nov 26, 2014)

Remember the old saying??
"anything worth doing is worth doing right""


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## Mauritian (Sep 30, 2014)

Here is a burlap coffee bag target- W18" x H30" x D16". it took 40Lbs of T shirts to fill it. When i shoot out the face i'll add another bag on it.


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## Castiron (Sep 18, 2012)

Strider1 said:


> Remember the old saying??
> "anything worth doing is worth doing right""


Yes and I mostly live by it! But there's technically nothing "wrong" The main purpose is to stop the arrow without damage and hopefully pull it out fairly easily.

If it were me, ya I woulda at least made them all the same depth and probably width also.


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## Castiron (Sep 18, 2012)

Any one tried the square boat seat cushions/life preserver. I've had some in the past that were sheats of a plastic like foam.

I've also thought about the swim noodles stacked neatly in a bag or box. (assuming you could come across enough cheap, or wore out)


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## Cris Anderson (Oct 22, 2014)

Strider1 said:


> Remember the old saying??
> "anything worth doing is worth doing right""


I do. I was taught it goes hand in hand with another saying though. Ohh...what was it? Wait, I remember! 'If you don't have anything nice to say...don't say anything at all.'

Of the two...you probably should've stuck with the latter. Have a nice day.


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

Thats a good reference for the burlap bag considering clothing weight. U shoot broadheads into that?


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## Mrcnwlvrn (Feb 24, 2014)

Tagged, for some great ideas


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## Mauritian (Sep 30, 2014)

mendozer said:


> Thats a good reference for the burlap bag considering clothing weight. U shoot broadheads into that?


Burlap bag for field points only.
Here is a link for the BH targets I've made for myself and some friends.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2425571


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## Spikealot (May 27, 2009)

If your worried about pass-thru's with a rag or plastic bag stuffed box target - find an old mud flap off a semi-truck or trailer and screw it to the backside of the target. Keeps that side from bulging out also.


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## PyrateLV (Jul 16, 2014)

I use shrink wrap in my DIY targets and it works great for target points.

cheap
compresses well
easy to reform
doesnt mold, mildew or rot

just make sure your target is at least 12" deep


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

Ok so 50 lbs of clothing at the local goodwill would run me $87 with tax included. For that price it seems a block or blob might be a wiser choice at around $100. I just hate spending money on a tiny 16 or 18" target.


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## Castiron (Sep 18, 2012)

exactly why I would find some lumber wrap, pallet shrink wrap, and feed bags. = FREE


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

I'm trying to find shrink wrap. Receiving departments at Lowes, Walmart, grocery stores, etc either aren't picking up the phone, don't return calls, or say they don't have anything for me.

I also saw elsewhere some people buy cheapo foam ones for BH tuning. might be a good idea. Or I suppose I could make two shrink wrap targets, one for BHs.


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

One walmart finally answered. They have a company pick up their bales of shrink wrap. They won't allow a local pickup. Ugh


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## Cris Anderson (Oct 22, 2014)

mendozer said:


> Ok so 50 lbs of clothing at the local goodwill would run me $87 with tax included. For that price it seems a block or blob might be a wiser choice at around $100. I just hate spending money on a tiny 16 or 18" target.


Keep in mind also, that 50lbs of clothing will last literally decades. When it starts to soften, rearrange, repack, and you have a new target.


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## Castiron (Sep 18, 2012)

mendozer said:


> I'm trying to find shrink wrap. Receiving departments at Lowes, Walmart, grocery stores, etc either aren't picking up the phone, don't return calls, or say they don't have anything for me.
> 
> I also saw elsewhere some people buy cheapo foam ones for BH tuning. might be a good idea. Or I suppose I could make two shrink wrap targets, one for BHs.


Go to a smaller store like an ace hardware or lumber yard and talk to the guy in the yard or a manager.

I wouldn't shoot broadsheets at this type of target.


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## Cris Anderson (Oct 22, 2014)

mendozer said:


> I also saw elsewhere some people buy cheapo foam ones for BH tuning. might be a good idea. Or I suppose I could make two shrink wrap targets, one for BHs.


One other thing...semi related.

I don't 'broadhead tune'. I bareshaft tune. My broadheads are shot into a target a few times tops in order to verify that they are flying properly. I use bareshafts to do the bulk of the tuning work, then switch to broadheads for the few final shots. As long as the field point arrows (fletched and bare) are setup to match the broadhead in weight and FoC% (doesn't have to be perfect...just close)...I haven't seen one be off yet.

Saves a TON of wear and tear on targets.


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## bbjavelina (Jan 30, 2005)

Cris Anderson said:


> One other thing...semi related.
> 
> I don't 'broadhead tune'. I bareshaft tune. My broadheads are shot into a target a few times tops in order to verify that they are flying properly. I use bareshafts to do the bulk of the tuning work, then switch to broadheads for the few final shots. As long as the field point arrows (fletched and bare) are setup to match the broadhead in weight and FoC% (doesn't have to be perfect...just close)...I haven't seen one be off yet.
> 
> Saves a TON of wear and tear on targets.


Absolutely correct. 99%,, or more, of the tuning should be completed before ever screwing on a broadhead. It'll save a lot of time and money.


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## Cris Anderson (Oct 22, 2014)

bbjavelina said:


> Absolutely correct. 99%,, or more, of the tuning should be completed before ever screwing on a broadhead. It'll save a lot of time and money.


Agreed!!

The fun part is...I use huge, heavy broadheads, and tiny AAE Pro Max vanes. Still having zero issues.


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

So you tune with field tipped bare shafts? no vanes?

My arrows are already fletched so I was going to just screw on a BH and shoot it and if it goes to the same aiming point, great. I also believe that's adjusting, not tuning. Not sure what tuning is exactly.


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## Cris Anderson (Oct 22, 2014)

mendozer said:


> So you tune with field tipped bare shafts? no vanes?
> 
> My arrows are already fletched so I was going to just screw on a BH and shoot it and if it goes to the same aiming point, great. I also believe that's adjusting, not tuning. Not sure what tuning is exactly.


Yes sir. I tune my setup with field tips and no fletching. Easiest way to go about it is start from square one with the bow setup. Here's the steps I use:

1 - Set nock point 90° to string and level with the berger holes.
2 - Set top cam to vertical at full draw. If you don't have a draw board this step is skippable. It's important but it can often be tuned without it.
3 - Set centershot so that when looking straight down the string (centered on the riser) the arrow is split by the line of the string.
4 - Eyeball sight windage, then shoot at 3-4yds and set sight windage left and right to exactly hit point of aim (I use the side of a piece of masking tape placed vertically down my target...or a piece of weighted string).
5 - Move back (10yds, 20yds, etc) and using the same point of aim, adjust rest side to side to correct for left and right misses. I also roughly set sight elevation here.
6 - Move back to 5yds to verify sight windage is still accurate. If not, adjust again, then repeat step 5. Repeat as necessary.
7 - Move back to 10yds, fire a bare shaft. If it's hitting reasonably close to point of aim...move back to 20yds and fire the bareshaft with fletched arrows (I will often use 2 bareshafts and 2-3 fletched...IGNORE shots you know are bad). If the bare shaft is off more than 4" at 10yds, repeat the steps above because something was done incorrectly (at this point top cam lean could be an issue).
8 - After you've fired your group at 20yds, correct bare shaft impact left and right by bumping the rest in VERY small increments. Bareshaft hits left, move rest right. This is the opposite of adjusting sight windage.
9 - Correct bareshaft impact up and down by adding or removing twists in the control cable. I've never had a bareshaft be more than 4" off high or low if the bow was in spec to begin with.
10 - Verify tune through paper if you like. I don't bother with this anymore.
11 - Micro adjust sight elevation.
12 - Test fire broadheads. I've never had them be off...so after this I'm done.

All of this assumes your bow's in good working order, and that your draw length isn't excessively long or short. It also assumes you have decent form and a good no torque grip on your bow.

With this I took my Xcentric out of the box, and within less than an hour total built it and tuned it to go from this group:









(note the bareshaft high and right?}

To this group:










These are the first shots through paper after tuning in this manner:










Keep in mind, those arrows are .040" OVER spined. Yet I'm getting perfect bullet holes with the setup.

Now...to illustrate the point when it comes to broadheads:










First ever shot with the broadhead...20yds. Broadhead right, field point left. I altered my point of aim so as not to kill my X-Impacts lol. It's accurate enough with either arrow to kill nocks.










Same arrow, 30yds.


















The picture above is the actual broadhead. These things aren't 'small'. It's 3" long, 1 1/8" wide, and weighs 250 grains. As you can see in the second picture...the total combined width of the vanes themselves are no wider than the broadhead (I don't use full size vanes...I use AAE Pro Max, which are comparable to mini blazers I guess). In addition, they are .250 spine...putting them nearly .100" OVER spine for my setup. Yet they tuned perfectly.

Trust me, it works .

Sorry for the semi hijack...but it's just such a simple method...its difficult not to share. It's worked for me on six different bows to date.


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

Ok i just read about tuning. nevermind that last comment


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

holy smokes that's complex. What can I omit for single cam bows?


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## Cris Anderson (Oct 22, 2014)

mendozer said:


> holy smokes that's complex. What can I omit for single cam bows?


It took me less than an hour total...never having built a bow in my life...to do this the first time, lol. I don't think that qualifies as 'complex' . Besides, an hour spent for perfect arrow flight, fletched, bare, and broadhead? That seems pretty decent as far as value goes.

On the single cam thing...I don't know for sure, I've never done one...but I would assume all of the steps would be precisely the same. Though I'm not sure how the cam system would be tuned for vertical bareshaft misses. Maybe twist the back of the string for high misses, and the front of the string for low? I'm sure you could post and ask though.


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## bbjavelina (Jan 30, 2005)

Cris Anderson said:


> It took me less than an hour total...never having built a bow in my life...to do this the first time, lol. I don't think that qualifies as 'complex' . Besides, an hour spent for perfect arrow flight, fletched, bare, and broadhead? That seems pretty decent as far as value goes.
> 
> On the single cam thing...I don't know for sure, I've never done one...but I would assume all of the steps would be precisely the same. Though I'm not sure how the cam system would be tuned for vertical bareshaft misses. Maybe twist the back of the string for high misses, and the front of the string for low? I'm sure you could post and ask though.


On a single cam I've had good success by adjusting tiller for vertical problems. 

Good write-up above. Well done.


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## Beat~ (Jun 24, 2014)

Cris Anderson said:


> Yes sir. I tune my setup with field tips and no fletching. Easiest way to go about it is start from square one with the bow setup. Here's the steps I use:
> 
> 1 - Set nock point 90° to string and level with the berger holes.
> 2 - Set top cam to vertical at full draw. If you don't have a draw board this step is skippable. It's important but it can often be tuned without it.
> ...


Quite detail on bareshaft tuning


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## Castiron (Sep 18, 2012)

Was at Lowe's yesterday and looked closer at the "bag dumpster" they sell (I don't remember what it's called). But it is about 3' wide,3' deep and 8' long, 29.99 and heavily woven. It would make several large faces or probably a couple or three large targets.


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## Mauritian (Sep 30, 2014)

Here is my lifetime target with a burlap face made from some old Cabela's burlap blind material. I think it was about 12' X 3' and cost about 10 bucks at the time. There's enough for 3 target faces. It's not a very tight weave but should be an advantage as the threads are loose enough to allow the FP's to go through. Very little breakage and should last a long time.


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

castiron, how did you seal the top of your frame? Small hole at the top for stuffing like the popular lifetime target plans?


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## Castiron (Sep 18, 2012)

I didnt. Its open. I did find a rectangular dumpter lid i laid on top though, just for the heck of it.


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

Finally! Local grocery store finally gave me some plastic (grocery bags, shrink wrap balls, packing plastic wrap,etc) and I got the lumber wrap a while back. Got some 1x4 from a buddy. Hence this 100% FREE target!

And it stopped my arrows from 4-5 feet with 10-12 inches of penetration in various spots. I put the foam block behind just in case. Final dimensions 32x32x11.5 D. Maybe weighs 35-40 lbs?

Not bad considering how close I was and it's a 322 fps IBO bow.

so while I get that clothes is superior of a material, I can use this until I stockpile enough clothes to layer it in.


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## Beat~ (Jun 24, 2014)

1x4 seem kind off thin, doesn't it.


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

just a frame though. I used perpendicular braces at every corner. It was pretty solid


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## Beat~ (Jun 24, 2014)

mendozer said:


> just a frame though. I used perpendicular braces at every corner. It was pretty solid


Could you post up a pic of the frame? Would like to try make a more portable target, as my current target is just too heavy


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## Flivver90 (Feb 9, 2014)

Tag


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## Castiron (Sep 18, 2012)

Beat~ said:


> 1x4 seem kind off thin, doesn't it.


Only purpose for the frame is to keep it flat and square so it don't round out like a bean bag. Lighter the better.


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

I didn't take frame pics so here's a drawing. It's 32x32 so one side is 30.5 and is the sandwiched piece. 
The 11.5" pieces are all oriented the same direction, screwed in from the outside 1x4. 

Everything is 1x4 (or 3/4 x 3.5")

I placed the frame on the middle of the lumber wrap so the bottom was lined, then drew it over the sides (it was wide enough for this) stapled it to the top, then wrapped the rest around the front/back faces like a ribbon around a spool so it has really 2 layers of facing, then everything was tightened and stapled on the tops and sides, leaving no staples along the faces. Because of the width of the wrap, the inner layers became stuffing inside the frame. BUT when stuffing the insdie with plastic, make sure to put it inside all of the lumber wrap (so in my case, the inside layer was white, outer was black; I made sure to see white all around the inside before stuffing) otherwise you may get pockets of no stuffing.


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## RobRiguez (Feb 24, 2015)

Local Harbor Freight has these movers blankets on sale for $3
http://www.harborfreight.com/40-inc...1015b&utm_source=1021&cid=mEmail_s1021_c1015b

Would they work for target bag stuffing? How many you think I would need for a ThirdHand target bag?


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## Cris Anderson (Oct 22, 2014)

RobRiguez said:


> Local Harbor Freight has these movers blankets on sale for $3
> http://www.harborfreight.com/40-inc...1015b&utm_source=1021&cid=mEmail_s1021_c1015b
> 
> Would they work for target bag stuffing? How many you think I would need for a ThirdHand target bag?


I would think quite a few.

It's too bad none of you live near me. My dad is the plant manager of a local linen supply company (you know, uniform supply, shop towels, etc). It hit me that they are CONSTANTLY throwing out worn uniforms and shop towels by the bale. Called him up this afternoon and sure enough...they have a full semi trailer full of bulk cloth ready to go out next week. He told me I could come take as much as I like, lol.

Looks like I'll be ordering a third hand rag bag, cutting it up so I have two separate faces, then building a 20x32" frame (that's how much room I have for width in my shooting area) and using the separated bag faces as covers.

Inexpensive and long lasting? Win/win!


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

You could start shipping out bulk linens for peoples targets! Figure out what shipping is for certain target sizes (like 20, 30, 40# of cloth). Idea?


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## Cris Anderson (Oct 22, 2014)

mendozer said:


> You could start shipping out bulk linens for peoples targets! Figure out what shipping is for certain target sizes (like 20, 30, 40# of cloth). Idea?


I doubt I could ship it for cheaper than people could buy locally...but I can look. If you think about it, that's part of why third hand rag bags and others like it are so popular. Heavy targets require substantial shipping charges. I paid $135 shipped for my 70lb BLOB, and he sells them locally for $50-$70.


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

True. I didnt even think about uniform companies. Good idea. But thats heavier than plastic. Ill explore that if I start to see premature wear on this one


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## Flivver90 (Feb 9, 2014)

Anybody ever stuff the targets with large sheets of heavier plastic sheeting?
Not shrink wrap. Basically the kind of plastic wrap that you would use as a vapor barrier behind sheet rock.
I just found two huge sheets. Might be hard to compress but if I can get it in the frame I built I think it'll work just fine.
Just wondering if anyone has used it before?


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

May not be as grippy as shrink wrap but compressed plastic is still good I would think


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## Flivver90 (Feb 9, 2014)

That's kind of what my first thoughts were. Probably just go the clothes or shrink wrap route. Use the plastic sheets as a cover.


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## PyrateLV (Jul 16, 2014)

Last week when shooting into my Morrell Bone Collector target some of the filling got snagged in the target tip and pulled out when I removed the arrow.
I discovered that the stuffing is nothing more than white nylon strands (like from lawn-chair webbing) and some other clear shredded plastic (thicker than shrink-wrap. More like shredded Visquene)
All jumbled in a big spaghetti mess and stuffed tightly in the bag.


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## aeasley10 (Oct 24, 2013)

My 48x42 target, I might have gone overboard but mine has, a cardboard layer then a lumber wrap layer to keep moisture out, the the face is a black pet screen mesh from Home Depot ($18)


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## vietvet50 (Oct 18, 2006)

Schrink wrap stops arrows well but builds up on arrows its no biggy but a heads up


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

Took it out to the gulch in our neighborhood and shot it a bit. Had one up to the nock, which was a B to pull out because it pulled a big wad of shrink wrap out too, screwing up the vanes a bit. Then on another I hit the frame but that's my fault as my front arm started to bend as I was shooting. But it started sprinkling and I guess the rain acted like arrow lube because then my friend had two complete pass throughs and I had another near pass through the the nock somewhere in the middle of the target. 

Other than those it worked well from about 15 yards.


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## TrykonSniper79 (Dec 19, 2009)

My homemade box target
Some pallet wood, 2x4's, plywood, old sheets, my kids old foam squares, felt and some lumber wrap.
Weighs about 40 lbs, 18"x21" shooting area on all 4 sides.
I have very little craftsmanship skills so forgive the uneven angle cuts, but it is better than paying $80 for a big green target.


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## orion20 (Jan 31, 2003)

I built a similar target, used the third hand target faces. I filled the frame with lumber wrap and shot it at 10 yds, had almost a complete pass through. My question is did you cut the lumber wrap into real small pieces before you packed it? I was using a 20lb maul to help compress it and thought I had it packed pretty tight. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

I just stuffed it by hand


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## TrykonSniper79 (Dec 19, 2009)

I just lined the outside of the box with lumber wrap to keep the "stuffing" inside. I haven't shot it yet, waiting for my alphaburner to come back from being tuned, I will update the results soon.


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## slamdmini (Jan 31, 2014)

I'm gonna build one pretty soon. One question tho: when packing the inside, how do u keep the outside from ballooning out? What do u put on the outside to keep it nice and flat


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## tim1457 (Sep 25, 2011)

If you need just a backstop for wayward arrows, I use the 4'x6'x 3/4" thick rubber horse mats from Tractor Supply. They run about $40 bucks each and stop any arrow. A little hard to pull the arrow out (I rub dry soap on mine to help if I miss), but it serves the purpose and is a huge backstop for the price. They are a bit heavy and I use a 4x4 frame with a 2x6 across top.


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## Jbarrow (Oct 6, 2014)

All of these look good and I think they are something I can build. Which is the best design for shooting the Victory VAP arrows. I am shooting at a Morrell Target now and they are coming out the other side and one has passed through and luckily landed just the other side. I see several small big name targets for sale that will handle those arrows but I want a large target like everyone's design on here. Any suggestions?


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

I just wrapped the lumber wrap around a few times and that's pretty tight. The stuffing balloons out a bit like 2" from flat. But to me that's not a big deal. I do need to figure out what to do for wet arrows though! those suckers fly right through. Dry ones stop well.


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## TrykonSniper79 (Dec 19, 2009)

slamdmini said:


> I'm gonna build one pretty soon. One question tho: when packing the inside, how do u keep the outside from ballooning out? What do u put on the outside to keep it nice and flat


When I stuffed my target I didn't put anything on the outside to prevent 'ballooning' but it really didn't make a difference, I just wanted to make sure it was tight and my lumber wrap was doubled.


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## slamdmini (Jan 31, 2014)

And most of u guys are just filling it with old clothes right?


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## mendozer (Nov 11, 2014)

clothes and plastic. If you're gonna leave it somewhere covered, I'd recommend clothes. If you're gonna leave it out exposed, use plastic. 

I went with plastic due to cost of buying scrap clothing. Plastic was free


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## zooker (Apr 18, 2015)

anyone ever use an old trampoline for an outer skin on a target. If so how did it hold up?


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## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

Cris Anderson said:


> I would think quite a few.
> 
> It's too bad none of you live near me. My dad is the plant manager of a local linen supply company (you know, uniform supply, shop towels, etc). It hit me that they are CONSTANTLY throwing out worn uniforms and shop towels by the bale. Called him up this afternoon and sure enough...they have a full semi trailer full of bulk cloth ready to go out next week. He told me I could come take as much as I like, lol.
> 
> ...


Cris: If you would like to start a little side business, call me for bulk target pricing. I too get linens and such from a uniform rental company. I sell 3'x3' targets for $250 each. 5 or more for $200 each to clubs. Once you get set up you can build one in about an hour. I do paint them up so that takes a little more time.















Bag targets sell for $60. ONly takes ten minutes to build.


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## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

Jbarrow said:


> All of these look good and I think they are something I can build. Which is the best design for shooting the Victory VAP arrows. I am shooting at a Morrell Target now and they are coming out the other side and one has passed through and luckily landed just the other side. I see several small big name targets for sale that will handle those arrows but I want a large target like everyone's design on here. Any suggestions?


It really depends on what you want. If you want something that looks good is functional and last, Spend $35 for the Third Hand Archery DIY skins and instructions to build. If you don't mind how long it last or what it looks like, feed sacks do work. They just don't last as long or in my opinion, don't look as nice.:smile:


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## TrykonSniper79 (Dec 19, 2009)

Tried to follow the OP instructions on the 2x12 lifetime target, mine isn't as nice as his but it will work, took 3 huge rolls of shrink wrap to fill it, it's sturdy and packed tight.










Have to add another 2x12 on the top


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## grizzley30814 (Jan 8, 2009)

I have trampoline skin on mine at the club, seems to be alright for now haven't shot it much. I need to put a cover over it.


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## Muzzy61 (Oct 22, 2007)

ttt


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## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

orion20 said:


> I built a similar target, used the third hand target faces. I filled the frame with lumber wrap and shot it at 10 yds, had almost a complete pass through. My question is did you cut the lumber wrap into real small pieces before you packed it? I was using a 20lb maul to help compress it and thought I had it packed pretty tight. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


Orion20: How deep did you build the target. Our instructions for a rag target are for a minimum of 12" deep. It may take more depth than that for plastic wrap. There are many densities and thicknesses of plastic wrap so it would be hard tell how thick to build it without knowing what type plastic wrap is being used. Since it is already built, it may be better to add clothing to the mix, or restuff with clothing totally. JMO


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## g_whitcomb (Mar 30, 2012)

I've developed a big hole in mine after a few years [emoji22] it's been outside 24-7 and held up really well. I think what got it was shooting groups. The arrows so close together just rip the target skin apart. My next set I don't believe I will paint anything on it. I'll use tape to aim at or paper targets that I can keep moving around to even out the wear.


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