# Bear Tamerlane maintenance and take down



## Tamerlane Girl (May 8, 2007)

Hi Everyone

I have a 1968 Tamerlane and I'd love to learn how to do my own maintenance. I haven't found very many resources on the web for this kind of bow. I have some basic questions (like "how do I release the string and cables without snapping the limbs?") and some questions specific to my bow ("what the heck are those itty bitty numbers on the pulleys for?"). If anyone is interested or has any info, I'd be happy to post pictures or use private messaging.

Thanks so much!

TG


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## FS560 (May 22, 2002)

You cannot possibly have a "1968" Bear Tamerlane with pullys on it. That bow in 1968 was a recurve one piece.

Bear Archery's first compound or any bow with pullys was in 1974 and it was called aTamerlane II.

How do I know? Tom Daly, Mary Lynn Snyder, and I had the first three to go out in public for the NFAA outdoor nationals that year.

To release the string and cables:
1. Use a bow press, or
2. Back the weight bolts off until the string and cables become slack. The bolts are long enough.

The numbers on the side of the wheels are indicators of draw length as the wheel position at braceheight is changed with the ratchet cable tieoff. Wheel synchronization top to bottom is coarse on this bow because each ratchet click moves the wheel so far.


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## tacoben (Jun 24, 2004)

The link below is from archery history. The Tamerlane II was first produced in 1978.

http://www.archeryhistory.com/compounds/pics/70/bear78.jpg


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## FS560 (May 22, 2002)

Archery History is wrong.

I know for a fact that the Tamerlane II was first produced in 1974, it was Bear's first compound.

Three of us used the first ones at the nationals in 1974 and I used a Tamerlane II to win the Las Vagas shoot in 1975.


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## tacoben (Jun 24, 2004)

Jim,

Thanks for the clarification. That is really good information to know since I own one and also the hunting version which is the Alaskan. Just wondering... did you shoot yours with fingers in Vegas back then?


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## Tamerlane Girl (May 8, 2007)

Thanks for the info and the clarification. It was this page that made me think it was from '68

http://www.stickbow.com/stickbow/Collector/beararchery/

I'm still learning, obviously, so patience with my questions is appreciated. If I post a picture, can you show me where the weight bolts are? I've tried to find diagrams on the web without much luck.


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## FS560 (May 22, 2002)

I have never shot compound with fingers. Actually, around here, we went to releases with target recurves in late 1970.

Those bows were really long and I do remember that David Hughes shot it well, barebow.

I did have to use a fairly long trigger rope to stay in alignment with the steep string angle.


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## Spotshooter2 (Oct 23, 2003)

Tamerlane girl, just follow the limbs down on the outside of the bow, (opposite side from how you shoot the bow) and when you get down to where the limb gets close to your riser you will notice a bolt there on each limb. These are you weight adjustment bolts and this is how you adjust the weight of your bow. To loosen the bolts and adjust draw weight to a lesser weight you will turn the bolts counterclockwise. Do it equally on each limb. Loosen the top bolt 1 turn then loosen the bottom bolt one turn.


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## KyBoy33 (Feb 12, 2007)

*Tammerlane II*

If you contact Escalade Sports, the owner of Fred Bear Archery, I think someone there maybe able to dig up some info in manual form on your bow. I recently did the same for my Bear Alaskan compound and they were kind enough to look around and mail me what material they could. I bought my Alaskan in 1974 and I remember it coming out with the Tammerlane II. And who of that era could forget Jim Quarles?


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## tacoben (Jun 24, 2004)

Tamerlanegirl,

Here are pictures of my Victor Tamerlane II.

The second picture shows the limb bolt were you can lower the draw weight by turning it counter clockwise. But you should bottom the bolts out first (tightened down) then put a mark limb bolt at 12 o'clock then back out(with an allen wrench) 4-5 turns. Where the mark meets 12 o'clock is one turn. I alternate one turn out on the top bolt (top limb), then alternate with the lower bolt (lower limb) till you turned both out 4-5 turns.


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## JohnR (Apr 5, 2007)

*Nice Bow!*

Don't let the speed freaks talk you out of shooting it!
Bear Archery published the "Your Compound Bow Instructional Manual" in 1976. I think if you can find one it will help you with your bow. Check e-bay or Amazon.


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## FS560 (May 22, 2002)

The Tamerlane II (56" ATA) was not a slow bow by 1970-1980 target standards. Sure it is slow by todays soft cam standards.

Seems like I remember about 210 fps with 48# @ 31" AMO draw and a 374 gr. arrow. Compare that to my 1982 Jennings T-Star II (round wheels still) at the same draw but 52# and a 398 gr. arrow at 229 fps.

Sure wish I could shoot like then but with the knowledge and equipment I have now.


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## Tamerlane Girl (May 8, 2007)

*Cool pix!*

Yep, that looks exactly like my bow. Thank you very much for the detailed instructions! I hate being a newb and not being able to find the info I'm looking for.

One of those manuals would be so great to have. I'll keep an eye out on eBay.

I don't use a release, I'm a finger shooter. I use a glove, but when my calluses build up I'll probably switch to a tab. I don't mind the slow speed, either. I may get to the point someday where I want a faster bow, but for now just being able to build up my strength and concentration is most important.

How much do you reckon the bow is worth? I saw one on eBay that sold for something like 38 bucks. Couldn't believe it was that cheap. Aren't they worth more than that?


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## 88 PS190 (Sep 26, 2006)

Tamerlane Girl said:


> How much do you reckon the bow is worth? I saw one on eBay that sold for something like 38 bucks. Couldn't believe it was that cheap. Aren't they worth more than that?


The issue is that they are so far back on technology as far as compound bows go that its really just a collectors item not so much something most people will buy to use.

Not that you shouldn't use it, by all means do just that once you get up over 100$ I can think of other things I would do.


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## Rolean (Apr 27, 2010)

tacoben

I inherited a same Tamerlane, but without a manual. 

On your fourth picture a black bolt (with numbering ?) is visible in the metal part of the limb. What is the purpose of this bolt, and how is it to use?

On my bow there is also a sticker with the following text :
_With these C4 Eccentric Wheels, this bow is tuned for a draw length of 30 inches. Peak Draw Weight at this setting is 55 pounds. One turn of Weight Adjustment Stud changes Draw Weight aprrox. 2 pounds. See Owner's Manual for Details. _

On the under limb is mentioned : _7 -TC-08272. _

I hope you can help me by tuning this bow?

THANKS


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## DClark (Jul 25, 2011)

I have a Bear Tamerlane II that looks different then the bows I've seen in pictures. It does not have the extensions comming out from the riser. The cable runs from the limb pulley to the adjuster on the riser. And the way the limbs are bolted on is different. I know from the markings that this bow was made in Grayling. The ser# is TC1256. Can anyone tell me any history on my bow? I know that Bear archery moved to florida in 1978 so that means my bow is earlier then that. Please help me with any info you might have.


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