# Tips on using Carter Target 4



## TargetOz

Hi

I recently have moved from Scott Longhorn Pro 3 to a Carter Target 4. I was having target panic in a different way in that I felt I need control on the actual release, but in changing to a thumb release I'm not sure how most archers release. Some say place the thumb on the index finger then bt to release, others have said to place thumb on rest and bt slightly to release, and then the question of using a light or heavy spring. Hindsight maybe I should have got a bt release with a lock. But for now what seems to work is thumb on the release and bt slightly with a light spring, but I don't feel my form is as good when using the bt release, in that I can't or don't feel the Rhomboid working because my draw arm used to be relaxed at full draw but now feel tension in my forarm.

Would really appreciate advice.

Cheers
Steve.


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## slicer

Not sure how long you gave the Scott...but many have found it takes 1-2 years before they have become totally "one" with a hinge. Some things that have helped many with a Longhorn hinge are:

1. set it cold enough to be able to easily draw with pressure on all fingers and thumb peg.

2. Hit anchor, take thumb off peg and just hold, hold, hold, hold. If it doesn't fire in 3-4 seconds, set it a bit hotter.

3. Repeat #2, eventually you'll get to a point where it fires in 7-10 seconds...now, I go a bit hotter so the shot breaks in 3-4 seconds, every single time.

Back tension to me is just drawing the bow properly and coming to holding and staying there. Blind bail to consciously feel your arm/hand yield while you stay at holding. When actual shooting at a target if you want to control something, feel like you are staying strong in your T, like a statue at holding, practicing the act of letting the pin float as you look at X and only X...... the bow should just go off.

If you shoot a click I believe Scott's factory ledge is a bit long, as there is some decent travel after you click..... you can get shorter clicker moons from them.....come to anchor, release thumb peg and it should click instantly, then just hold, hold, hold, hold....may need to play with a couple different ledges to get in that ideal 3-5 second window.

I have a Longhorn III and feel they are very "fast" hinges, in other words, they really want to go all by themselves if you let them.

I shoot and prefer an older Stan magmicro III by drawing with all three fingers engaged and it has no thumb peg, no clicker. Don't put so much thought into it...Hinges are beautiful tools that really are designed to be forgotten about, not controlled.

The day I realized this I decided I was just going to draw and hold, while looking at the bull.....bow just started going off all by itself. 

Here's a good execution video for one way to shoot a thumb: http://www.grivtech.com/


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## aread

slicer said:


> .....
> 2. Hit anchor, take thumb off peg and just hold, hold, hold, hold. If it doesn't fire in 3-4 seconds, set it a bit hotter.


Isn't the Target 4 a thumb trigger release, not resistence activated? 

Good instructions from Slicer if it's a resistance activated release. If it's a thumb trigger release, still good instructions, except the part about taking your thumb off of the trigger. 

In general you hold your thumb still and pull straight back & allow release to turn into your thumb. Be sure to follow through straight back in line with the arrow and target.

JMHO,
Allen


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## slicer

aread said:


> Isn't the Target 4 a thumb trigger release, not resistence activated?
> 
> Good instructions from Slicer if it's a resistance activated release. If it's a thumb trigger release, still good instructions, except the part about taking your thumb off of the trigger.
> 
> In general you hold your thumb still and pull straight back & allow release to turn into your thumb. Be sure to follow through straight back in line with the arrow and target.
> 
> JMHO,
> Allen


Only reference to a thumb trigger is the last line in my post. Hinges are just to sweet to give up on.


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## TargetOz

Thanks Slicer and Allen, I really love my archery and loved using the hinge, it really has done a lot for my form and acuracy. I was consistently get x shots with it but it was when I was moving further a field that my nerves of getting a big miss started to take over my form and concluded that I needed a thumb release, however, what Slicer said was so true I have oh been using it for 6 months, and from what you said my hinge may be too cold because if I cheat and turn my hand it fires quickly but when I do everything right it takes way longer than 10secs to go off, and then find myself pulling harder for it to go off, with dire consequences. Think I'll give it another go tomorrow. Thanx again for both your advice.


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## subconsciously

The key to a hinge is relaxation. If your draw arm is not relaxed and hand not somewhat flat it is hard to relax. Proper alignment is critical. A thumb trigger can be activated the same way. Only difference is thumb pressure. Back activated rotation is the key.


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## TargetOz

With hinge release, I thought rotating is punching? But that in mind I'll give it a go. Thanx


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## bowtecha

TargetOz said:


> With hinge release, I thought rotating is punching? But that in mind I'll give it a go. Thanx


Rotating is considered cheating/punching the release but there IS a difference between snapping your wrist and transferring finger pressure


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## slicer

TargetOz said:


> Thanks Slicer and Allen, I really love my archery and loved using the hinge, it really has done a lot for my form and acuracy. I was consistently get x shots with it but it was* when I was moving further a field that my nerves of getting a big miss started to take over my form* and concluded that I needed a thumb release, however, what Slicer said was so true I have oh been using it for 6 months, and from what you said my hinge may be too cold because if I cheat and turn my hand it fires quickly but when I do everything right it takes way longer than 10secs to go off, and then find myself pulling harder for it to go off, with dire consequences. Think I'll give it another go tomorrow. Thanx again for both your advice.


"Present Process Thinking" or "focus on form" are some terms that will help you. When you get nerves about missing you are not in the present of your shot, you are in the future. If you are trying to hit the X during execution you are in the future.....focus on the present. All bad shots come from a form problem......mentally not focusing on form opens up all kinds of doors for an aspect to go bad. Some examples of things to focus on during every shot may be:

Constant steady tension against the wall at anchor....to much pulling introduces all kinds of alignment/form problems IMO.
look at spot, but let pin come in without you consciously placing it there. 
Execute: maintain against the wall as draw arm and hand relax.
Finish, bow arm still up, bow tips forward, release hand touches right shoulder.

Build a detailed shot process you follow, if any step goes haywire or isn't in place when it should be abort and let down.

Throughout your entire shot it's important to let go.....realize no one holds steady all of the time, so stop trying and just practice good form. Your shots at 90 meters should be as carefree and loose as your BLIND bail shots at 3 meters.

Stay in the present...there is no emotion in form. There are all kinds of emotions brought about by trying to hit the bull.


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## subconsciously

TargetOz said:


> With hinge release, I thought rotating is punching? But that in mind I'll give it a go. Thanx


There has to be a degree of rotation or the release will not fire. Even with even finger pressure, you can pull straight back on a release and it will not fire. 

This is not "dumping". As the hand is relaxed and back tension increases this cause a non-cognitive rotation which fires the release. All you do is aim.

The shot is - process............aim...follow thru. It is not - process......aim..process.....aim...process....aim...follow thru.


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## [email protected]

Switching releases is gonna give ur mind a temporary break but ur problem is gonna manifest itself again. It will not fix your part of your sequence thats is breaking down.IMHO go back to hinge and now the part everybody hates WORK IT OUT ON THE BAIL.And if you ignore this you shouldnt be learning your new release and wondering about your form while shooting at a target.GOOD Luck/


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## TargetOz

So true! I thought if only I had control of when the arrow releases it would fix the problem, but recently have gone back to hinge now and am purchasing a carter honey just for peace of mind. Do you think that will work or will it be an easy way out?? Once again thanks heaps for all of your advice.


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## [email protected]

You have to understand the release isnt causing the breakdown its ur mind and your shot sequence.Sorry its not gonna work.Now the work begins.Stop shooting at targets,no sights on bow or cover them, and start close on bail eyes closed.First you need to feed your brain what a proper release feels like.Dont think you ve got it down after 50 shots believe me you dont.Do this say like 10 arrows at a time with focus,do not shoot a 100 arrows,small well focused sessions 2 or3 times a day are better.Eventually you will be able to tell a good release by feel and your brain will want more.Id say at least 2 weeks and remember if you rush back to targets your gonna go backwards.Then go 5 yards big paper plate dont aim just see if you can keep the shot together(dont worry where you hit on paper)Your testing your release.Aread and Sub are better than me at explaining this so i hope they chime in but it takes work.Also you dont want to control any part of the shot,you want to be immersed in aiming and let the shot happen.Take the word control and throw it outta your mind.Good Luck


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## TargetOz

Thanks again, looks like I've got a bit of work ahead of me


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## [email protected]

Just put your time in on the bail.Ingrain your release into your subconscious and your gonna feel how the shot should feel.Dont be intimadated just focus on your release and do not shoot targets.Good Luck you'll get this solved.


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## TargetOz

Hi guys just wanted to keep you up to date with my progress, but firstly an admission, in the middle of all this I was still gripped by fear that i went and got a Carter Honey, but after all of your advice and watching the Scott videos on YouTube the penny finally dropped. I went back to my Scott after Chance said to keep the process 'fluid', as with the Honey there is a pause in the process, but when Nathan Brooks said in P2 that with Hinge releases it has to turn to fire. When hitting the blind bale with both the Honey and LongHorn I found I had a better follow through with the Scott, and with everything you guys have said which was backed up by what the pro shooters said I've followed suit and with enjoyable success! Thank you very much. Cheers Steve.


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## TargetOz

Nathan Brooks on BT and Hinge release...pretty much says it all- http://youtu.be/sw4n4OrpnCI


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## oldgeez

i heard a couple of griv guys talking and the new thing is "open the door???' what the heck is that??? i'm thinking it relates to ther elbow lateral swing to sqeeze the shoulder blades together...but griv is a hand relax rotator, not a larry wise shoulder blade guy?? i think!! i wonder what they were talking about???


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