# Homemade Lighted nock



## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

Hey if you are like me you hunt on a budget and the store brands are to pricey check out this video. I built some of these last night and they work awesome. For the price of a three pack in the store I was able to build six of them. I noticed no difference in arrow flight. If any body wants to see pictures let me know and I will update this post.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMqLT-4ezzk


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

pics


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

diagram thanks to hunt


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## caliwhackmaster (Feb 14, 2007)

Very sweet!!!

Think I may make a few of my own. I honestly think Lumenok used the same technology to do theirs. I called over the Lindy to ask what I could expect in the amount of lifetime in their batteries / lights. I was told approx. 60-80 hours with moderate use. So for at least 1/3 the price I can make the same product as Burt Coyote does and get 1.5-2X the life. I am sold.


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

ttt


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## NewPragueArcher (Aug 6, 2008)

I have been making my own for awhile now. They work great. Good info thanks


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## trophy hunter (Nov 14, 2006)

wheres the cheapest place to buy the batteries?? my walmart do`nt have them


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

*thill lights*

I got mine at Cabelas for 3.79 apiece


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## IowaSwitchback (Feb 5, 2006)

You can 3 diff colors of lights also....Amber/Green/Red










Here is how I made mine..
http://forums.mathewsinc.com/viewtopic.php?t=70292


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## pns (Oct 11, 2007)

*lighted nocks*



tannertt said:


> I got mine at Cabelas for 3.79 apiece


were at cabelas for that price


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

I found the lights in the fishing department at the Cabelas in LaVista you can get the light by themselves and dont have to be bought with the bobber


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## HCAarchery (Jul 9, 2006)

I think Walmart had the lights for 2.50 they sell fast so when you see them buy them up.


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

Just an update on these my neighbor and I built some and used them hunting. He shot a spike buck his arrow did a pass thru not only did the nock light at the shot but stayed lit after the arrow stuck in a log on the other side. The one that I built the doe I shot rolled over on the arrow and the the nock was sitll lit


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## mw31 (Apr 23, 2007)

Tried making two of these last night, the second one turned out pretty good. wifes picking me up more lights today when she goes shopping, now that I screwed up a little this next group should turn out great.


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## araz2114 (Jan 13, 2003)

*No glue for LED's*

Hey everyone.... have ever screwed up any of these nocks???? There is a much simpler way of making them. When you drill the nock use the next size bigger drill bit (11/64") sticks in my head. Don't bother glueing the LED to the nock.... just remove the nock and "click" the light off. Works much better and you won't have to worry about screwing up the light with glue or pins or what ever. Everyone I have ever screwed up has been at the "glue the LED to the nock" stage. I am about 50/50 for this. Now I am 100%....

Hope this helps..


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## tazman7 (Nov 5, 2005)

I am going to make some of these knocks. Do you have to resight or does your arrow fly any different?


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

My sights are still the same


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## Horses&Hunting (Oct 10, 2007)

Those are awesome. You guys should make some and sell em. I know alot of people don't want to take the time to make something like that. I got one from Easton but haven't tried it yet. To tell you the truth I'm not even sure how to install the stuff it came with. I have to put a magnet and Velcro on my bow and I don't know if I would want to do that. If you guys go to sell a couple let me know. 
Lisa


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## tazman7 (Nov 5, 2005)

Quick question. I just made a lighted nock off of these instructions for my Easton Axis Full metal jacket arrow. I had to drill out the inside of the nock so the light would fit, I then drilled a small hole on the side of the light and used a dental pic to shove super glue down the hole. Now when i put the nock into the arrow, the light turns on and I cant get the light to turn off unless I pull the whole thing out, which is a pain to do because it is so tight.

Any suggestions?


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

Try sanding the nock that is on the out side of the arrow. You want it to slide in to the arrow pretty easy but not to loose then the nock that is holding the base of the battery is the stop and you should be able to turn the light off after tat with out removing the whole thing. Let me know how that works. Tanner


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## wv_hunter (Oct 5, 2007)

awesome post. I tried a lumenok a couple of years ago, but as soon as it hit the offside shoulder of a 3 point that I killed it went out and would not come back on. $10 for one shot seemed a little steep. Going to try to make some of these as soon as I find the lights. Thanks again for the post.


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## tazman7 (Nov 5, 2005)

tannertt said:


> Try sanding the nock that is on the out side of the arrow. You want it to slide in to the arrow pretty easy but not to loose then the nock that is holding the base of the battery is the stop and you should be able to turn the light off after tat with out removing the whole thing. Let me know how that works. Tanner


Yeah i thought of that but it makes me nervous to sand it anymore because it is already pretty thing from drilling it out to make the light fit.


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## chevy4x4 (Aug 10, 2008)

I found one light at Dick's Sporting Goods today and bought it. Made the knock when I got home and it worked great. I used a dowel rod instead of another knock and it still works great. When I can find more lights I'll make a couple more. My Wal-Mart doesn't carry them and Dick's pnly had the one light.


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## Junior. (Mar 23, 2006)

I found the lights at Fleet Farm and I got the yellow ones and they were very bright.


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## chevy4x4 (Aug 10, 2008)




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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

looks nice chevy good job


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## WIbow (Nov 10, 2004)

Those are slick,definitely going to make a few of those,thanks tannertt!


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## chevy4x4 (Aug 10, 2008)

tannertt said:


> looks nice chevy good job


Thanks


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

No problem anytime I find out something that I can make or do myself I will definately post it up here to share with others


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## chevy4x4 (Aug 10, 2008)

Yea. I always jump on stuff I can make for my hobbies by myself. Gives me something to tinker with when I dont have anything else to do


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## xxclaro (Jul 5, 2006)

I've made several of these, with mixed results. The problem I've had is with the battery end, down inside the arrow. I tried gluing pieces of dowel to the end,but they wouldn't stick. I used pieces of another nock, but it's hard tomake sure they stay straight and square till they harden. Also, once you glue them in, if they don't work or quit working, your stuck with them in there. Any suggestions on how to make this work better?


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

I put the whole thing together then after it drys put it in the arrow


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## hickw/stix (Nov 1, 2008)

will these in FMJ shafts..i know when i switched to FMJ i had to switch to x-knocks cause my original lummenknocks didnt fit the shaft. GREAT TIP and id love to try it if they'd fit


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## bbs383ci (May 14, 2008)

hey tannert do you break the sewing needle off or what im not understanding that step.

Dustin


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

I dont use the needle I got the diagram for another member. I just use a ring of glue on the top of the light


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

*ttt*

bump


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## jdiesel (Mar 31, 2008)

will there work in axis arrows?


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## MHansel (Jan 8, 2005)

Best DIY thread on Archery Talk:teeth:

Made 3 for less than $14

Now when I shoot at deer I'll see right where it goes:teeth:


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## 458win (Jun 8, 2007)

Doucet said:


> will there work in axis arrows?


x2 would like to know before I buy lights and wreck nocks


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## Trailcam Addict (Feb 6, 2008)

*nocks*

i stocked up on these lights here for $3.59!:mg: 

http://www.castawaylakes.com/NiteBriteBattery.html


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## madcarpenter (Dec 2, 2006)

thanks guys tried it works awsome found them at wally for 3.16 a peice bought all 12 they had thanks again


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## jdiesel (Mar 31, 2008)

So anybody who has made some............ I can't seem to find the lights around here sold out prob beacuse of this thread.. But I was going to order some I would like to know if they are to big to fit into an Axis shaft. Please let me know asap I have always wanteed lighted nocks but couldnt ever pay the price...


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

*Axis arrows*

I've never tried with an Axis arrow. Everybody around here hunts with gold tip.
Best thing I could tell you is try it with one light and an old arrow to see if it works.


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## mtn. archer (Apr 2, 2005)

got some at wally world last night gonna try this today.they had six and i got all six .the you tube video was very helpful.did you ever try it with the sewing needle like in the pic?


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## RAZOR62 (Jun 7, 2006)

Careful buying those lights. Thill makes a twist on version as well and it won't serve the purpose in this application. Be sure to specify the push on style.


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## mtn. archer (Apr 2, 2005)

they were the push pull type i made sure before i bought them


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## wolfy692005 (Dec 6, 2008)

i dont understand how they work... what happens to the battery (light and battery is the same) when the arrow is shot that makes them come on?
i saw them for 3.56 then 7.99 to ship... ???? how are you guys making 3 for under 15 bucks.
thanks and awesome thread, i love the DIY area


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## danny.d (Jan 29, 2008)

thanks!!! tannertt ,made 3 last night and turned out awesome, have you seen a do it your self for the crossbow, would like to make some for my father in law ?? that would get me some points in the good books


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## sanford17 (Mar 31, 2008)

I picked some up at the local Fleet-farm for those of you with them in the area about $3.50 a light. I am going to try making them.
Ben


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## rescue.tech (Feb 18, 2006)

458win said:


> x2 would like to know before I buy lights and wreck nocks


did anyone try these in the axis yet. would also like to know.

thanks
Clint


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## jdiesel (Mar 31, 2008)

rescue.tech said:


> did anyone try these in the axis yet. would also like to know.
> 
> thanks
> Clint



the lights themselfs dont fit in the nock one might be able to bore it out with a bit but haven't tried it. However it may mess with the structure of the nock its self and may not be as storg as it should be. Any one want a free light:shade:


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## Bushwackr (Jul 10, 2008)

*lighted nock*

has any one made any home made nocks from the blue nocks on the axis fmj shafts, does anyone have any pics of them. I tried one of the g5 blue nocks , i dont care for them. and theyre 20 a pop.


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## sanford17 (Mar 31, 2008)

*Easton Axis*

I made them some for my wifes Easton Epics the other day which I belive is the same as the Axis. I just drilled the nock out to 11/64 and glued it in. Seems to work good. I used a clear green nock with a red light. I only drilled it 11/32 deep enough for the light to fit in. I did not drill it all the way though with a small bit. As for my CX's I just glued them in no drilling. I also sanded the cut off nock lightly to make it easier to put them in and take them out. I used a Krazy Glue with a narrow tip to get the glue in the back of the nock. Hope this helps. I guess about $4 a nock not to bad. The CX nocks are the same exact design and I was paying $10 a nock for those.
Ben


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

*Success pics*

Hey guys if you were able to make some of these for Axis or like shafts post pics if you can for the other people who asked about them. I did try with the sewing needle and prefer the glue method better. I did not try drilling for the needle instead of melting into it, if it was drilled it might make removal of the light easier once it was out. I will try it and let everybody know. Thanks again for everybody posting and keeping this post going.


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## mjgonehunting (Mar 5, 2007)

I picked up 4 of the thill lights today at Dicks.I got ahead of myself,and tried to shoot 1 w/o putting the stopper in,and proceeded to drive it against the back of the insert when it hit the target!It crumpled up a bit,and probably will screw up the balance now,but I know not to do that again!
Can someone tell me the reason for drilling the small hole through the throat of the nock?It seems like that would be asking for a split nock!I'm going to try without it first.
The red lights I got are super bright in Flo.Yellow nocks,and plenty bright in the red and orange ones too!


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## sanford17 (Mar 31, 2008)

They say it is to let more light out. I think there plenty bright with out doing this. I did because I thought it would weaken the nock to much.
Ben


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## Hoser16 (Jan 6, 2009)

yellow are definitely the brightest


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## danny.d (Jan 29, 2008)

IowaSwitchback said:


> You can 3 diff colors of lights also....Amber/Green/Red
> 
> 
> 
> ...


which one do you find to be the brightest?


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## atjunkie (Jul 18, 2006)

Anyone know the shelf life of these lights? Put a couple together yesterday, they work great. I went without anyglue in the nock.....


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## mtn. archer (Apr 2, 2005)

i went with the original with the sewing needle works great


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## FireFighter25 (Jan 9, 2009)

Thanks for the links. I took my bow to the shop to get some accessories and I was going to buy light-up nocks. Now that I saw this forum, I will make my own and save the money.


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## atjunkie (Jul 18, 2006)




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## wisesteve (Jan 29, 2005)

I've made some for my axis arrows. the side wall of the nock is paper thin when done, but they work great. Still a little concerned about structural strength. Drill enough to allow lite to slip into nock freely, sand nock to slide freely into arrow, cut another nock and slide it onto battery of lite then push all into arrow. lite will come on. pull nock out of arrow. pull lite to off postition. slide nock back over lite without lighting. ready to go. lights up better than my tracers.


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## wbhinton (May 6, 2008)

araz2114 said:


> Hey everyone.... have ever screwed up any of these nocks???? There is a much simpler way of making them. When you drill the nock use the next size bigger drill bit (11/64") sticks in my head. Don't bother glueing the LED to the nock.... just remove the nock and "click" the light off. Works much better and you won't have to worry about screwing up the light with glue or pins or what ever. Everyone I have ever screwed up has been at the "glue the LED to the nock" stage. I am about 50/50 for this. Now I am 100%....
> 
> Hope this helps..


I think I will try this method. I seem to keep screwing up the light mechanism or gluing it all up.


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## bj99robinson (Jan 8, 2009)

Axis FMJ arrows and these lights are pretty hard to make work. I did one on my carbon express rebel arrows with no problems. Just started to do one on my FMJ's and the light don't fit in the nock. I'm still working on it. I hate to drill it too thin and have a messed up nock. I'm sure it can be done but I'm having a hard time with it.


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## BWiz (Dec 15, 2008)

bj99robinson said:


> Axis FMJ arrows and these lights are pretty hard to make work. I did one on my carbon express rebel arrows with no problems. Just started to do one on my FMJ's and the light don't fit in the nock. I'm still working on it. I hate to drill it too thin and have a messed up nock. I'm sure it can be done but I'm having a hard time with it.


All I did was to drill the nock just enough to "nest" the bulb of the Thill battery light, then super glue it. If you like I can post a picture.

Good Luck.


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## Gary K (Nov 28, 2008)

*brightest color combo?*

Which color lights and nocks work best together to give the brightest nock?


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## duckhunter808 (Jan 14, 2009)

I used a Clear nock with a red light and it's really bright.......Works Great!


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## bonessij (Jan 28, 2009)

cool idea, ill have to try it out


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## Southpaw38 (Nov 30, 2007)

Great thread! I've been looking at it since yesterday and going to make some. I was at Dicks today all they had were Blue fox batteries, no Thill. Will these work? I wasn't sure so i didn't get any. They were $4.49/ea.


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## Gary K (Nov 28, 2008)

*Lights for $2.50!*

BTW, both Walmart's nearby me have put old fishing stuff on clearance racks to clear out for upcoming season. They had a bunch of Thill bobber lights for $2.50! Too bad they were the twist-on type. But some of you may find them pretty cheap at your Wally World right now if your local store is cleaning out too.


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## atjunkie (Jul 18, 2006)

*May have found a good source locally*

For you that cannot find these lights. Would 4.00 a piece shipped be priced to high? Not sure yet but it looks promising.


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## huntil12876 (Sep 25, 2007)

Tried these out last nite, they work awesome. I just found the at www.fishermanswarehouse.com for 2.99. Any order over 50 bucks is free shipping, thats a deal IMO.


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## mr_evans2u (Feb 27, 2007)

I just went to Bass Pro and got the stuff to make this with. Works great so far, I haven't shot it yet but with the fingers it works good. Gonna have to find the lights cheaper though, $4.50 a light at BP here so I have a lighted nock for $6.71 a piece. Not to bad I guess.
checked out the site huntil12876 suggested. 17 lights you get free shipping.


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## mr_evans2u (Feb 27, 2007)

a short video of my home made lighted nock in action
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=837184


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## DUCKORBLEED (Dec 17, 2008)

This is beyond awesome I can't wait to find this Thill lights.


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## Nman77 (Nov 17, 2008)

Made 3 more last night. They rocked. Had to modify one but still worked.


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## driver79 (Feb 27, 2008)

*Walmart light issues*

Anyone have problems with the Walmart bought Thill lights that come in a yellow package? I bought two today and they did not work well, lights flickered and then quit working. I noticed the Thill lights Gander Mountain and Fleet Farm carry are in a black package. Should have known better.


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## SoutherntierBowhuntr (Jul 1, 2007)

Bwiz...how about that pic????


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## SoutherntierBowhuntr (Jul 1, 2007)

Someone on the Mathews site said he uses a piece of plastic aquarium tubing instead of the dowel...the inner diameter of the tubing fits over the thill light and the outer diameter of the tubing fit snuggly in the arrow shaft...never made any of these lighted nocks myself so I can't say from experience but maybe someone here might want to try this method and report back. I'll eventually get around to making them, but, I guess I'm not so quick on the uptake and am still a little confused on the construction in spite of all the great posts up to this point. Is this the order of the way the parts are glued????The light on the thill light is glued or pinned to the outer nock...the dowel or cutoff nock is glued to the inside of the arrow shaft...so...is the bottom end of the thill light ultimately glued to the dowel/cutoff nock? sorry for the long rambling post.


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## atjunkie (Jul 18, 2006)

The cut off nock is not glued to the shaft. The battery is glued inside the cut off nock


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## Powerstroker (Oct 2, 2008)

Does anybody not drill the hole in the nock? When I made some I didn't drill the hole in them (fear of nock breaking when shooting), and they seemed to work fairly well.


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## georgiabuckdan (Dec 17, 2007)

please dont think im ignorant but, how does the sewing needle work?


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## SoutherntierBowhuntr (Jul 1, 2007)

As I said a couple of posts before...I haven't done these myself but if I understood the earlier posts in this thread, You drill out the nock so that the thill bobber light will slide up into the nock...once it is positioned inside the nock...you heat a sewing needle until its red hot, and then push the needle throough from the outside of the nock and into and through the red (or green or yellow) lens / tip of the light...all the way through to the other side. Then you clip off or grind off the parts of the sewing needle so that it is flush with the outside of the nock. I'm sure if I got this wrong someone more familiar with the process will correct me... Did I get it right?


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## SoutherntierBowhuntr (Jul 1, 2007)

Thanks for clearing that up atjunkie.


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## SoutherntierBowhuntr (Jul 1, 2007)

There is a video that actually shows a guy making one on youtube. I don't know how to insert a link for it but I'll try. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMqLT-4ezzk (hope this works)


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## SoutherntierBowhuntr (Jul 1, 2007)

OK it worked.


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

Since I started this post I've received a few requests to build these and sell them. Since I still wreck a few now and again (going too fast) I dont feel comfortable making these for sale however anybody that would like to make some for sale PM and I'll foward you the members that would like to purchase some from you.


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## smshinall (May 16, 2008)

How many people? I haven't messed one up yet. the trouble is finding the lights. Everytime I see them in a store I buy all of them.


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## georgiabuckdan (Dec 17, 2007)

thanks southern, Didnt understand it going through the lens cap... Sounds like it will hold solid as a rock that way!


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## BWiz (Dec 15, 2008)

SoutherntierBowhuntr said:


> Bwiz...how about that pic????


Sorry for the delay in posting these. It gives up a little brightness from the side, but is intense from the rear of the arrow. Only drilling enough to "nest" the thill light into the X-nock allows the nock to retain all its originally manufactured strength, which is a good thing.


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## atjunkie (Jul 18, 2006)

SoutherntierBowhuntr said:


> There is a video that actually shows a guy making one on youtube. I don't know how to insert a link for it but I'll try. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMqLT-4ezzk (hope this works)


 That would be tannert, the one who started this thread. :thumbs_up


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## SoutherntierBowhuntr (Jul 1, 2007)

That explains it...Thanks for all the info tannertt. Great thread and excellant video.


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## SoutherntierBowhuntr (Jul 1, 2007)

Georgiabuckdan...not exactly sure that you need to drive the needle all the way through (or even if its possible) but even if it only goes through the one wall of the nock and halfway into the lens of the thill light it should probably hold fine....Thanks for the pics Bwiz.


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## tntsmith (Jan 24, 2009)

*walmart light*

I bought 2 one didnt work at all


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## ShootToKill10 (Aug 22, 2007)

I am wanting some but dont have access to supplies to build them. If anyone can build me some ( for axis st arrows) pm me and ill buy them. 
Thanks


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## Firenock (Nov 5, 2006)

*The solution*



xxclaro said:


> I've made several of these, with mixed results. The problem I've had is with the battery end, down inside the arrow. I tried gluing pieces of dowel to the end,but they wouldn't stick. I used pieces of another nock, but it's hard tomake sure they stay straight and square till they harden. Also, once you glue them in, if they don't work or quit working, your stuck with them in there. Any suggestions on how to make this work better?


I have make more lighted nock and have more failure than most. To use the till bobber light to work really well. The stopper's perfect depth is the key. First measure what the total length of the inside is. Make a few more, to get the best depth you need base on your tool and design. Go and find a screw (machine screw, just thinner than your shaft) and saw it down approximately and sand it down to exact depth you needed to install the stopper, then minus another 0.5 mm. Now you get a perfect depth gauge for installation. Use it to glue in your stopper piece with the depth gauge you just mkae. It shall work a lot more consistent that way.


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

I cant take credit for starring in the Youtube video. I found the video after running into a random hunter at Cabelas and he told me where to find the video and how to make them. I went over to the fishing section got a light went home watched the video made one, shot it drove back to Cabelas(half hour away one way)bought five more lights wrecked two and decided to share my new found toys with everybody I can. If it wasnt for some DIYer in Cabelas I may have never found out and had to pay the full cost for a name brand. The sewing needle can be drilled into the nock using a very small bit, or can be heated and melted into the plastic. I personally just drill the nock and glue it with Goat Tuff. I've been shooting mine since I've started this post, and no complaints. I drilled the end like the video said and havn't had a problem even in cold weather. My recommendation for those of you wanting to make them is try the light while at the store(bought three that didn't work) and take your time.


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## SoutherntierBowhuntr (Jul 1, 2007)

Found this quote in the "homemade stuff" thread...on page 29 and posted by "swampbuck"

"The pin method will require more than one pin application.
I take the nock melt the three holes without the light inside to get the holes in the nock. Then I take a fresh pin that has not been heated, which makes them weak and easy to bend when they hit the harder plastic on the light housing, then heat that and stick through the already premelted holes and they will stay hot enough to stick into the light plastic. LEt me know if you have any further questions or need photos."


Hope this helps.


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## georgiabuckdan (Dec 17, 2007)

seems like there working fine for you just gluing them in...


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## tntsmith (Jan 24, 2009)

*plastic tubing works well*

I have built 6 of these trying various methods for a stop I didnt like the dowell way or the nock so I tried 1/8 x 1/4 tubing I picked up 2ft for 32 cents real easy to work with and fit my bemans perfect one nock I covered most of the battery the other i went 1/4 inch havent weighed or shot them yet still drying the other ones I had to sand the nocks alot to get them in and over sanded one and then I snapped one in half thats why I covered one all the way with tubing would advise against drilling through the nocks I spoke with one of our engineers he looked at it and advised not drilling it the amount of lumens admitted by the hole do not warrant compromising the plastic nock


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## Gary K (Nov 28, 2008)

tntsmith said:


> I have built 6 of these trying various methods for a stop I didnt like the dowell way or the nock so I tried 1/8 x 1/4 tubing I picked up 2ft for 32 cents real easy to work with and fit my bemans perfect one nock I covered most of the battery the other i went 1/4 inch havent weighed or shot them yet still drying the other ones I had to sand the nocks alot to get them in and over sanded one and then I snapped one in half thats why I covered one all the way with tubing would advise against drilling through the nocks I spoke with one of our engineers he looked at it and advised not drilling it the amount of lumens admitted by the hole do not warrant compromising the plastic nock


Could you post a photo of how the tubing works? I assume you glued the battery to the tubing, and the tubing slides into the arrow somewhat tight? Think that will change any with cold temps?

Yeah, lots of questions... as soon as I can find some lights at Wally World I'll be trying to make some, so keep the tips comin'!


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## tntsmith (Jan 24, 2009)

Gary K said:


> Could you post a photo of how the tubing works? I assume you glued the battery to the tubing, and the tubing slides into the arrow somewhat tight? Think that will change any with cold temps?
> 
> Yeah, lots of questions... as soon as I can find some lights at Wally World I'll be trying to make some, so keep the tips comin'!


I will try to get some pics up tommorow yes i glued the tubing to the battery in the same manner as the sawed nock I will stick one outside when the temps drop again and test the cold temps I may even stick one in the fridge while the wife is at work of course I think the 3/4 inch long tubing makes the light stronger no play in the light real solid fit will of course test to see if it changes impact point but I highly doubt it :thumbs_up


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

ttt can we get a sticky


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## greg64 (Oct 24, 2008)

Once you have superglued the nock to the wood dowel it's going to superglue to the inside of the arrow shaft and be permanent. If the battery runs down or the nock busts your done with that arrow. This can get quite expensive, don't you think? Has anyone came up with a good idea of securing the nock instead of permanently gluing to the inside of the shaft?


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## Gary K (Nov 28, 2008)

greg64 said:


> Once you have superglued the nock to the wood dowel it's going to superglue to the inside of the arrow shaft and be permanent. If the battery runs down or the nock busts your done with that arrow. This can get quite expensive, don't you think? Has anyone came up with a good idea of securing the nock instead of permanently gluing to the inside of the shaft?


See post 101 from tntsmith. He used plastic tubing around the battery instead of the cutoff nock end. Also, the nock or wood dowel doesn't need to be glued to the inside of the arrow, just needs to be a snug eough fit so the light can be turned on when pushed.

:darkbeer:


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## ieatmeat (Feb 16, 2009)

Copy and paste the following into the search window on ebay. They're $9.49 for 3 of them. Otherwise I get them at Gander Mountain. They're about the same thing as the Thill lights.

Rod-N-Bobbs RC Airplane Light


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## mtn. archer (Apr 2, 2005)

went to my local bow shop this evening and looked at the carbon express lighted nocks and you want believe this but they have the same design as the home made nocks and its a thill battery powering the nock has the same kind of stop and everything. the sewing needle worked better for me than the glue i kept glueing the nock and it wouldnt work but tryed the sewing needle and it works every time for me


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## smshinall (May 16, 2008)

I am trading 6 of these right now. They have a new thill light with the nock shank epoxied already. Just add your own nocks and you are all set.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...post1053921077


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## PaScott6 (Apr 27, 2006)

tntsmith we need pic:darkbeer:


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## atjunkie (Jul 18, 2006)

PaScott6 said:


> tntsmith we need pic:darkbeer:












:wink:


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## dwlk5 (Dec 13, 2008)

atjunkie said:


> :wink:


Thats Funny


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

Multiply pics at the beginning of post will try to move some later


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## mtn. archer (Apr 2, 2005)

i have 5 of the red thill batteries brand new in package i would like to trade for 5 green thill batteries.they are push pull i can have pics if requested


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## mathews#1 (Feb 23, 2003)

*Brightest light color*

What color is the brightest??????????????

thank you


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## Petapal (Nov 29, 2007)

You can get lights from this site. 11.97 for 3 +S& H.They went up in price $2.00 since I bought them last. They are the some as the Thill lights.http://www.rod-n-bobbs.com/index.php?http://www.rod-n-bobbs.com/index.php?page=home


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## D-TRAIN (Dec 1, 2004)

BWiz said:


> Sorry for the delay in posting these. It gives up a little brightness from the side, but is intense from the rear of the arrow. Only drilling enough to "nest" the thill light into the X-nock allows the nock to retain all its originally manufactured strength, which is a good thing.


I'm going to make some for my Beman MFX's. This looks like the best way. Couldn't you cut some of the nock off so the light gets a little closer to the back? Maybe it wouldn't gain any light...

I'm interested in this tubing method. Need some pics


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## PassYoungBucks (Jan 17, 2009)

Fantastic thread! Thanks for sharing.


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## mncollector (Feb 14, 2009)

great DIY tip gonna keep an eye open for some batteries thanks alot


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## mathews#1 (Feb 23, 2003)

*Can anybody tell me*



mathews#1 said:


> What color stands out the brightest??????????????
> 
> thank you


Can someone tell me


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## huntil12876 (Sep 25, 2007)

I've used the green and the red. Red is way brighter than the green.


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## manboy (Mar 24, 2005)

ya its pretty simple, and cut the needle off after it cools....i started making these about 4 years ago..way cheeper...i think the amber is the brightest, us a clear green or yellow nock, not the solid colored......


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## war thunder (Oct 9, 2008)

Hello all I'm new to archery. I have been to trying to find out how to make a lighted nock. being in the military we do not really have a place to cut and glue and do work stuff do to leaving in the barracks. does any make lighted nocks for the axis carbon n-fused? if so possible trade or ? please PM me going a Hog hunt and think these would come in handy 
being this would be my first hunt with a bow. Thinking my get a litle "buck fever"...? Or would that be Hog fever:wink:Thanks for any help 
DJ


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## deercrazy56 (Feb 17, 2009)

Excellent idea! going to get supplies right away! nice work


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## fab_man21 (Feb 20, 2009)

Thats a sweet idea to bad you didnt think of it a year or two ago you would be a rich man


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## Greenleafpro (Feb 18, 2009)

I tried it for the first time and screwed the first one up. After the first one i got the hang of it. AMANZING idea you guys are great and saving me some money THANKS They show up great on the videos i shoot. Even better on dusk shots we dont need to track anymore just follow the light.


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## Greenleafpro (Feb 18, 2009)

My hats off works great just be easy on the glue


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## Pace (Apr 3, 2006)

araz2114 said:


> Hey everyone.... have ever screwed up any of these nocks???? There is a much simpler way of making them. When you drill the nock use the next size bigger drill bit (11/64") sticks in my head. Don't bother glueing the LED to the nock.... just remove the nock and "click" the light off. Works much better and you won't have to worry about screwing up the light with glue or pins or what ever. Everyone I have ever screwed up has been at the "glue the LED to the nock" stage. I am about 50/50 for this. Now I am 100%....
> 
> Hope this helps..


This is exactly the way I do mine; works perfectly!


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## vortec xt2000 (Feb 25, 2009)

Going to give it a try soon. thanks


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

*I had a thought*

I have not tried it, but, what if you drill the hole in the nock and insert the light and take a very small straw or tube into the hole and drop the glue down into the hole and glue it that way. Then you wouldn't have to worry about ruinning the light by glueing it. Again, just a thought. Don't know what kind of tube you could get, maybe a coffee stir?


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## revoarcher (Jul 18, 2006)

You can get them at tower hobbies for $2.69, but they only have them in yellow and green and I like the red ones. You can get a three pack with red,green and yellow for $8.59 if you want to try different colors.


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## jneedles24 (Dec 27, 2008)

Check your local Wal-Mart if you have one close by. They have T-Hill lights for $3.09. They too are in the fishing section but make sure you buy the push/pull lights. The twisters work but not as well as the push/pull


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## plinker22 (Mar 4, 2006)

easyeriq said:


> I have not tried it, but, what if you drill the hole in the nock and insert the light and take a very small straw or tube into the hole and drop the glue down into the hole and glue it that way. Then you wouldn't have to worry about ruinning the light by glueing it. Again, just a thought. Don't know what kind of tube you could get, maybe a coffee stir?


Seems like a good idea in theory. What actually happens when gluing the lens to the nock, glue gets to low and cements the light PERMANENTLY on, or the glue gets up too high on the lens and gets down into the bulb electrical leads. This has messed up several of mine as well.

I have made these for several years, and now make them without using any glue. No glue, no problems.

An advantage to the "no glue" method, you can use old lights for your practice and then put in new lights just before the real shooting starts, when it really counts.

Hope that info is helpful.


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

How do you make them with no glue, just press the light into the nock and remove nock to pull light plunger back out to turn off?


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

Anyone know a good cheap place to get the twist style lights? I want to experiment with one.


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## atjunkie (Jul 18, 2006)

easyeriq said:


> How do you make them with no glue, just press the light into the nock and remove nock to pull light plunger back out to turn off?


Yep, and it got old fast. So I glued mine. After drilling it out of course, so much easier to do. And if you do need to get it back out of the shaft, a clothes hanger works fine.


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## atjunkie (Jul 18, 2006)

*Broken light*

Anybody have a wrecked light that I can play with? I want to get a look at what makes it tick. PM me if ya can help.


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## jneedles24 (Dec 27, 2008)

Pace said:


> This is exactly the way I do mine; works perfectly!


Do you glue the light to a stopper or just place a stopper into your arrow shaft so you can switch out the lights if needed?

Thanks for the help!


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## hunterjk (Dec 23, 2005)

*lighted nock*

I have tried to make one of these nocks.
went to gander mnt. got a beacon light.
glued a piece of nock on the end and put the nock on 
the other,
I put a wooden stopper in the shaft from a #2 pencil
that I sanded down cut off a 1/4 inch and pushed down the shaft, 
when I put the light into the shaft, the nock come off the light,
Now the light is stuck in my shaft.
do I have to glue the light to the nock?
Anyone ever had this happen?
$3.00 light didn't last long.
now I'll have to cut it out of the shaft.


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## madsammer (Nov 21, 2008)

With the nock out of the shaft turn the shaft on end and it SHOULD come out. If not a lil force by shaking or "whip" action it 'll do the trick. With that method I hav gotten several tite weight tubes.

Good Luck

R


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## Greenleafpro (Feb 18, 2009)

TTT THEY are worth the time if you like to tinker. have made 4 dozen and get better every time


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## danbear (Nov 12, 2005)

> I have tried to make one of these nocks.
> went to gander mnt. got a beacon light.
> glued a piece of nock on the end and put the nock on
> the other,
> ...


Straighten out a metal cloths hanger and stick it through the other end of the shaft and it will come out!!


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## justmybow (Dec 28, 2008)

I had tried making two of them today and when I tried to glue the led into the nock the light glued on...is there an easier way of getting the lights to stay in?
Drastic failure for first time will try again soon..thanks for the info on how to make them


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## bowandarrowman (Dec 10, 2008)

*briteness*

I've only tryed the red and green. Red seems the brightest.


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## justmybow (Dec 28, 2008)

success..have done it with the epic 400 after three tries...have to be careful with drilling the nock thou.....works good ...thanks very much.


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## danbear (Nov 12, 2005)

going to try them on my maximas. cross your fingers.


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

*A different way*

After alot of free time, thanks to no work, I came up with a different design of lighted nocks. I will post a pic. First you drill out the nock like you would it you were making them the typical way, then you drill a small hole in side of nock to access the tab on the light. Next you take your light and strip down the metal from the top of nock down to the lip. take a razor knife and cut a slit, then take pliers and peel the rest of it. Then insert light into nock so that the metal tab on light sits at the small hole you drilled at the lip of nock. Use a very small piece of household solid wire and glue into hole against tab. Them take a piece of foil and roll it up so it is about 1 1/2-2 inches long. Slide one end into nock between nock and battery and wrap the other end down around battery and back up so it sits on the outside of nock. Insert into shaft and test


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

I forgot to add that after you get it all assembled drop a few drops of glue to make everything stay. No moving parts no connection to break. 
P.S. If anyone has any old batteries that they have glued together or made otherwise unusable send them to me. I love to tinker.


And no, I did not steal someone elses plan or copy write. I have never seen other plans nor intend to. I had a few lights sitting around that were "broken" and tore them apart.


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## atjunkie (Jul 18, 2006)

Looks like you've got a good idea there easy. Now if I can find the lights without the rediculous shipping charges. Cause I've been wanting to try something like this myself. I found a batt. today but it has no led, anybody got 1 of the leds laying around?


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## mtn. archer (Apr 2, 2005)

the sewing needle works really good no glue except for the stop.and its a whole lot easier havent messed any up since i started doing it this way.any body got any green lights they would trade for red ones they are still in package i just want to try different color by the way i have five red lights


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

One of the best things is, you can test it all as you glue it so if something does change, you can fix it before the glue dries


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## atjunkie (Jul 18, 2006)

Easy is not using a stop. It would look like someone elses nock, but I aint sayin any names.:angel:


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

Maybe I should start a new thread instead of adding on to this one?


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## chachi (Jan 18, 2007)

I built four as described by the first post. It appears they turned out great, but I haven't let them fly yet. This is the best post I have found yet. Thanks tannertt.


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## nickj765 (Oct 2, 2007)

*Turning Off*

May sound like a dumb question..but once the light is illuminated how do you turn it off? Say for example after you shoot it does it just fade out, or can you turn it off. I have not had any experience with these and I am interested in making and learning about them. Thanks


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

With both the original post style and the different way that I posted, it is a matter of pulling the nock out. With the original posted style, it clicks the light off by pulling out, turns on by pushing in. With the way I posted, it is a matter of pushing in to complete the circuit through the shaft and pulling out to open the circuit. With the new style, you don't have to worry about twisting the light and in effect ruining it. Hope that helps


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## CrossHairs (Feb 25, 2009)

I made a pair of these last weekend. Fun to make and even more fun to shoot!


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## revoarcher (Jul 18, 2006)

Hey easy Whats the aluminum foil for, to make them as heavy as the name brand nocks. Looks like amatuer hour to me. Maybe you should pm some more people from my classified thread and try to get some more answers. Thats how you got this far!! You and someone else but I wont mention any names.


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

sorry, no


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## Pace (Apr 3, 2006)

jneedles24 said:


> Do you glue the light to a stopper or just place a stopper into your arrow shaft so you can switch out the lights if needed?
> 
> Thanks for the help!


Sorry for the delay in responding; I glue the light to a stopper (part of an old nock). I can push it out with a coat hanger if needed. Using a drem. tool, you can take off the stopper real easily also. One thing I changed is where I put the stopper; I don't put it at the bottom.... It works MUCH better placing it in the middle, where the knock will meet it flush when shot. This makes it easier to push it into the arrow and not bend the light.


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## atjunkie (Jul 18, 2006)

Which light have you folks found to be more reliable? Rod-n-Bob or Thill? Have had alot of bad contacts with Thill.


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

I'm going to try that good idea


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## wsbark01 (Feb 26, 2009)

*Mine!*

The one on the left is the one I made and the one on the right is a real carbon express one! I think the one I made looks brighter!


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## tannertt (Jun 15, 2007)

ttt


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## rayandkellyh (Apr 28, 2009)

*where to get light*

Just went to the sportsman warehouse that is closing a bought the bobber and light for $1.34. There are only two days left before doors close. Get there if you can.


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## contryboy822 (Oct 14, 2008)

i made these and they work pretty good


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## Ashaver (Jul 20, 2009)

*nice*

I will try and make a few of these tonight.


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## ChasePhase (Aug 8, 2009)

I tried these a couple years ago and had the glue problem. May have to try it again if the mod is that much bettter....just write slow so I can understand.


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## BowmanPa (Oct 26, 2006)

*Lighted nocks*

I glue mine to a cut off nock used for the stopper but I sand the stopper down just enough so it will hold when I shoot my arrow. This way I can rplace the light when it goes bad and I don't have any glue in the shaft. I made a long slim ram rod to stick through the Broadhead end to pop out the battery. I shoot FOB:darkbeer: so I don't glue the nocks on due to when I have a pass through the FOB:darkbeer: and nock pops off together and the light is still in the shaft so I can find my Arrow. I'll post pics if anyone wants to see how I make them. Making your own gear is fun and rewarding. Good luck to everyone in their up coming Season and hunt Safe.


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## skycomag (Aug 31, 2006)

*please post away your pics.*



BowmanPa said:


> I glue mine to a cut off nock used for the stopper but I sand the stopper down just enough so it will hold when I shoot my arrow. This way I can rplace the light when it goes bad and I don't have any glue in the shaft. I made a long slim ram rod to stick through the Broadhead end to pop out the battery. I shoot FOB:darkbeer: so I don't glue the nocks on due to when I have a pass through the FOB:darkbeer: and nock pops off together and the light is still in the shaft so I can find my Arrow. I'll post pics if anyone wants to see how I make them. Making your own gear is fun and rewarding. Good luck to everyone in their up coming Season and hunt Safe.


pic are always the best way to show of your work.
besides i learn better from pics.
i pic worth a 1000 words.


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## adawg (Aug 16, 2009)

Awesome idea


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## ChasePhase (Aug 8, 2009)

adawg said:


> Awesome idea


Shout out for Roch. I'm in Webster


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## sbooy42 (Jan 2, 2007)

ChasePhase said:


> Shout out for Roch. I'm in Webster


Going on year 3 of using these lights...just made 3 more for this season...

FYI..its the only light I have found that can be modified to work with FOBS


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## Combat Hunter (Sep 4, 2009)

I like it. I'm a DIY kinda guy. I will be working on this lil project and see what fun I can make with these. Thanks for the info


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## wynnbry2000 (Aug 18, 2009)

atjunkie said:


> Which light have you folks found to be more reliable? Rod-n-Bob or Thill? Have had alot of bad contacts with Thill.


I like the Rod-n-Bobs better! they dont seem to have as much twisting play near the collar that goes up and down.


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## buckeyboy (Feb 6, 2007)

*Caution*

Do not drill a hole all the way through the nock and shoot it out of a monster or x force or Iron Mace the nock can break the hole weakens the nock. I know cause it happened 1/2 the nock snapped right off. not safe..


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## newram05 (Aug 23, 2009)

just made two of these. First one I glued and messed it up. I actually took it back to Dicks Sporting Goods and they returned it. Then I got two more and tried glue again, messed it up, but was able to salvage the light by continuously turning it on and off a bunch of times so the contacts wore through the glue. (wheeew) Then made both of them without glue. Just glued a stopper in and drilled out the nock. Works like a charm!!!


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## atjunkie (Jul 18, 2006)

Try putting the stop and light in the arrow first (not all the way in). Then roll on the glue and insert the nock. Lines everything up nicely. Take 2 times sometimes to get the glue to hold the light. Don't use to much glue, alittle goes a long way.


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## BowmanPa (Oct 26, 2006)

*Lighted nocks*

Sorry it took me so long!









This is what you'll need other than the drill.

1) I take the solid orange nock and I sand it till it fits the shaft, also I see if the battey fits in the stopper before I cut it. If not I then drill the stopper out a little. (sorry forgot those pic).

2) Then I cut the nock off to make the stopper and then incert the battery into it and glue it. 


















3) Then I take a 5/32 bit with tape on it at 5/8 from the top of the bit for your depth and drill slowly.(If you want the small hole through the nock use a 3/32 bit and drill that hole first but just drill through just enough to go through the nock.

















(this is of the 3/32 bit)









4) Next I insert the battery and stopper slowly into the shaft using a depth gage I made (has a stopper so i know when I have the rod at the correct depth) that will fit into the shaft through the Broadhead insert. 

















(I do not glue it into the shaft so when it goes dead I can remove the battery the the depth gage and put a new one in).









5) Next I insert the nock and FOB (this is why I do not glue the nock to the LED) onto the shaft. With the nock all the way down the light turns on. Then I wiggle it slowly till it turns off and then that is where I leave it.


















Here are a few pics of the finished product!

























I hope this helps someone. I am not very good at explaining how to do things. I am a hands on person!!!


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## BowmanPa (Oct 26, 2006)

I have also found the replacement light/batteries so I was so excited but then I found out that you have to have a min order of 8000. This is straight from the Company that makes them for Thill,Rod-N-Bobb and Blue Fox. I am trying to find out if they would make a smaller amount if not I found them for $2.99 each but shipping is $8.95 anf that is for 1 to as many as you want. I'll put that site up tomorrow ($2.99).


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## IL-Gutpile (Jun 25, 2008)

Has anyone made these for Axis arrows? I'm thinking by the time you have a smaller nock and you drill it out for the battery to fit, it would be VERY VERY thin...


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## memphistinker (Aug 1, 2009)

*Thill Replacement Batteries Cheap !!!*

I just saw a post from BEAVERMAN where to buy these things!!!

And, boy am I glad. Just today, I AGAIN visited Walmart Supercenters (both) "none", Dicks (1 "red" and a Dozen "Green" . . . bought the red $4.49 + Tax.) IMO "green" is NOT the best :set1_STOOGE2:

Then, I stopped by BassPro and saw the usual REORDER tag where the Thill Replacement Batteries for $4.49 + Tax usually hang. The guy who works there told me I should see that "large number of bowhunters who visit that aisle looking for batteries . . . on a daily basis !!! :set1_punch:

I just ordered a 10-Pak (red) for $24.95 + $6.95 S/H . . . :banana:

http://www.hawglite.com

No more . . . drivin' different places to be let down and scurryin' around with a bunch of other bowhunters over 2 or 3 batteries on each order !


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## jacksonrh64 (Nov 14, 2007)

Here is a couple of You Tube video's showing how:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMqLT-4ezzk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlUJujJZphc

Jack


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## ToxArch1 (Oct 1, 2009)

*Home made lighted nocks*

I just ordered 20 of the Thill replacement batteries (the ones used to make the lighted nocks - posted many times on various threads of AT) from www.hawglite.com 

After getting a shipping cost to Australia and telling Kelly that I was going to order 20 of them, SHE DROPPED THE PRICE !!!!!!

Now that's what I call incredible customer service.

Landed at my door in Australia for $2.64 each !!!

Kelly...you're amazing. :77::aniangel::thumbs_up


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## ToxArch1 (Oct 1, 2009)

*Hawglite*

Well, just to follow up on this. Kelly sent the 20 batteries/lights I ordered. But get this...she sent them the day BEFORE I paid for them.

Then, when I received them, I sent her a thank you email and casually mentioned that 5 of them didn't work.

I have just received the 5 replacements...without me even asking for them.

Kelly, do you have a PhD in customer service ??????

Thank you so much.





ToxArch1 said:


> I just ordered 20 of the Thill replacement batteries (the ones used to make the lighted nocks - posted many times on various threads of AT) from www.hawglite.com
> 
> After getting a shipping cost to Australia and telling Kelly that I was going to order 20 of them, SHE DROPPED THE PRICE !!!!!!
> 
> ...


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## ToxArch1 (Oct 1, 2009)

*Making Lighted Nocks*

I have found, after reviewing all the other methods here, that the easiest way to make lighted nocks (IMO) is a slight adaption of the method that another member here ( ttown ) uses.

The bow string turns the light on when firing the arrow. You use a jewellers screwdriver in a little side hole to turn it off. So you don't have to worry about things like - pulling the nocks out; loose nocks; lining up the fletchings; damaging the light when turning the nock; etc. 

And you don't need to modify the light in any way. And you only use one nock per light.

I have used this method so far to make a dozen lighted nocks without a single failure. It is super quick, and they work every time.

I use this method with Easton Uni Bushings with Easton Super nocks but this will also work on Bohning Signature nocks and others (although the Bohning Blazer Double Lock nock is a little borderline too small in diameter).

First you drill a 1/8" hole all the way up through the nock as a pilot drill (this helps prepare the way for the bigger drill). You can hold the nock in an Easton Super Nock tool to stop it spinning while drilling. Be gentle, don't drill too aggressively.

Then you drill 11/64" all the way up through the nock, only just into the string nocking area (you just need to break through to get a full diameter).

Then you drill 1/16" at right angles, all the way through, in the body of the nock, near the string area so that - on the Easton Super nock - the hole just about touches the top of the "S" symbol.

Then deburr all the holes.

Use epoxy glue on the light around the arrow end (insert dry first so you will know where to put the glue). Insert the light into the nock so that the metal part of the light is only just showing in the side hole and the LED is visible in the string part of the nock. The string needs to be able to push this down).

Once the epoxy is dry (5 minutes), the job is done.

Now I know the above may sound a little complex, but once you have done one you will see how easy it actually is.

I have attached a jewellers screwdriver to my release so I always have it "on hand" (pun intended).:teeth:


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## ToxArch1 (Oct 1, 2009)

*Pictures of making lighted nock*

To save posting multiple pictures in multiple threads, I have just posted them on the following.

Have fun.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1056170361&postcount=1528


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