# Fletching contact on cables



## Derekg22 (Feb 12, 2019)

The rest seems to be in the center of the riser shelf from what I can see.... so I'm not sure if this is uncommon or not, but the measurement on the launch arm is a ways from zero....I had to swap the top hats around on both top and bottom to get it this well already....not sure if it may just need different ones that aren't on the bow already....


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## BigXX78 (Mar 16, 2005)

I don't have your bow, but I've never seen fletching contact with a cable be an issue with properly tuned bow. Is your arrow running perfectly parallel to your riser, with it doing that? Worth checking, I'd say. Then again, I've never shot a 28" ata bow. Could be a thing with high profile vanes on them...


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## BigXX78 (Mar 16, 2005)

Your rest looks too close to the riser, the way I'm seeing it. Use a rubber band to secure an arrow tightly, exactly parallel, against your riser. Then load an arrow on your rest. If the arrow on your rest is angled in toward the riser, there's your problem. Adjust your rest until both arrows are perfectly parallel. That measurement should be your bow's centershot. If that doesn't fix your vane clearance, I yield to other experts and opinions. Like I said, I've never tuned short ata bows.


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## Rem788 (Jan 27, 2021)

Have you actually shot any arrows through it to see it there’s contact? I didn’t see where you had, you just said it looks like there will be an issue. 


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## BigXX78 (Mar 16, 2005)

Rem788 said:


> Have you actually shot any arrows through it to see it there’s contact? I didn’t see where you had, you just said it looks like there will be an issue.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Good point.


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## Rem788 (Jan 27, 2021)

BigXX78 said:


> Good point.


I say that because when sighting in my slider I thought for sure I would have felt hung contact on the bottom of my scope at 100 yds by looking at it but when I gave it a try it cleared. It wasn’t by much at all but it apparently was enough. 


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## BigXX78 (Mar 16, 2005)

Rem788 said:


> I say that because when sighting in my slider I thought for sure I would have felt hung contact on the bottom of my scope at 100 yds by looking at it but when I gave it a try it cleared. It wasn’t by much at all but it apparently was enough.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Makes sense. I'd overlooked the fact that he hadn't reported actual vane contact when shooting.


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## BigXX78 (Mar 16, 2005)

Derekg22 said:


> The rest seems to be in the center of the riser shelf from what I can see.... so I'm not sure if this is uncommon or not, but the measurement on the launch arm is a ways from zero....I had to swap the top hats around on both top and bottom to get it this well already....not sure if it may just need different ones that aren't on the bow already....
> View attachment 7406537
> View attachment 7406538


Does your vane actually hit the cable as you draw? If not, you're probably good.


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## ProXXX (Oct 12, 2010)

Same old story, mess with tophats, because well, that's what "everyone says to do". How about setting rest the proper distance from riser shooting the proper spined arrow and see what happens?


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## Derekg22 (Feb 12, 2019)

This is exactly what I did to begin with cheif.... before I even touched the top hats, and that is why I am here asking these questions now....I had terrible bareshaft tears I couldn't get rid of....and according to easton I'm using the correct spine suggested....so to answer the questions to the prior comments...im assuming there will be cable contact with the vanes by looking down the arrow shaft with the bow in the relaxed state (see images)....also, I did what the other guy suggested and attached a shaft to the riser and one in the rest and they seem almost perfectly parallel to the naked eye, but over the length of the entire shaft out on the end its a diff of about 3/16 of an inch (see images) barely noticeable














....this was a great idea...btw


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## Rem788 (Jan 27, 2021)

Got any more pictures of the cable slide/roller guard? I’m guessing it’s supposed to be angled in like that? I definitely see what you’re saying and it looks like you’ll have quite a bit of contact. It sure seems like if this were a normal issue there would be more people with the same problem especially with how many people use blazer vanes. 


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## BigXX78 (Mar 16, 2005)

Derekg22 said:


> This is exactly what I did to begin with cheif.... before I even touched the top hats, and that is why I am here asking these questions now....I had terrible bareshaft tears I couldn't get rid of....and according to easton I'm using the correct spine suggested....so to answer the questions to the prior comments...im assuming there will be cable contact with the vanes by looking down the arrow shaft with the bow in the relaxed state (see images)....also, I did what the other guy suggested and attached a shaft to the riser and one in the rest and they seem almost perfectly parallel to the naked eye, but over the length of the entire shaft out on the end its a diff of about 3/16 of an inch (see images) barely noticeable
> View attachment 7406602
> View attachment 7406603
> ....this was a great idea...btw


Maybe nuts&bolts can tell you how to fix this.
@nuts&bolts


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## BigXX78 (Mar 16, 2005)

BigXX78 said:


> Maybe nuts&bolts can tell you how to fix this.
> @nuts&bolts


I'm thinking changing the top hat overdid it a bit. Your string is shifted too far toward the riser now. You might need to change it back and start over, using the parallel arrow to find your centershot. I can see you're clearly gonna have fletching contact, and your broadhead tuning will likely be a nightmare, regardless of BS holes.


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## BigXX78 (Mar 16, 2005)

Derekg22 said:


> This is exactly what I did to begin with cheif.... before I even touched the top hats, and that is why I am here asking these questions now....I had terrible bareshaft tears I couldn't get rid of....and according to easton I'm using the correct spine suggested....so to answer the questions to the prior comments...im assuming there will be cable contact with the vanes by looking down the arrow shaft with the bow in the relaxed state (see images)....also, I did what the other guy suggested and attached a shaft to the riser and one in the rest and they seem almost perfectly parallel to the naked eye, but over the length of the entire shaft out on the end its a diff of about 3/16 of an inch (see images) barely noticeable
> View attachment 7406602
> View attachment 7406603
> ....this was a great idea...btw


I think you're going to have to start over, putting the top hat back to factory. Then use the rubber band to hold a bare shaft on the inside of your riser, at Berger hole level, if it fits. Then load your arrow and adjust the rest until they're both parallel, to find centershot. From there, you should be able to measure between your shaft and arrow, both in front and behind the riser. After that, I can't help you. 

A lot of people hate my Bowtech carbon riser bows, but I tune them both to be tack drivers with broadheads out to 80 yards. LOL! Different cam systems, without yokes. I love mine!


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## BigXX78 (Mar 16, 2005)

BigXX78 said:


> Your rest looks too close to the riser, the way I'm seeing it. Use a rubber band to secure an arrow tightly, exactly parallel, against your riser. Then load an arrow on your rest. If the arrow on your rest is angled in toward the riser, there's your problem. Adjust your rest until both arrows are perfectly parallel. That measurement should be your bow's centershot. If that doesn't fix your vane clearance, I yield to other experts and opinions. Like I said, I've never tuned short ata bows.


It looks like your arrow angles out, but that could be image distortion.


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## skully1200 (Sep 26, 2008)

Shoot it and see what happens before you worry about fixing it


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## Skyydyyver (Apr 5, 2021)

I'm not familiar with that bow (also I'm a newb) but my bowtech revolt x looks like that, the rollers are on a "flex guard" that pulls the cables out of the way when you draw. 
It looks like they will hit when not drawn.
Put some baby powder or flour on the vane and shoot it. See if leaves white marks.

not to jump the gun but nut&bolts will probably say 3/16 difference in the 2 arrows is too much. (I've read alot of his posts)


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## Rem788 (Jan 27, 2021)

Skyydyyver said:


> I'm not familiar with that bow (also I'm a newb) but my bowtech revolt x looks like that, the rollers are on a "flex guard" that pulls the cables out of the way when you draw.
> It looks like they will hit when not drawn.
> Put some baby powder or flour on the vane and shoot it. See if leaves white marks.
> 
> not to jump the gun but nut&bolts will probably say 3/16 difference in the 2 arrows is too much. (I've read alot of his posts)


It is too much. 3/16” near the riser doesn’t seem like much but I’d think it grows exponentially the further the shot. 

The Matthews is different than our Bowtechs. It has a carbon shaft similar to the one for the string stop so it doesn’t flex. 


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## BillAcuff (Oct 23, 2019)

Derekg22 said:


> I have a right handed vxr 28
> 
> 29" d.l., 65 lb mods maxed out with a mathews qad integrate mx rest....shooting axis 5mm 260 spine- 29.5 inches length with the standard hit inserts....Ive finally got bullet holes bare shaft through paper about 9 yards away...nock tuned every arrow shot with a carter wise choice thumb release...then I fletched them with my arizona mini max left helical with odd vane up with standard blazers and it seems one of my vanes is gonna make contact with my cables.... im wondering if this seems to be common on these mathews bows and a high profile vane like this?...I could strip an entire dozen arrows and go with a lower profile vane but wonder if it's gonna be the easiest thing to do or not...any feedback appreciated..thanks


Buddy you might have to do that, I had to cut all mine off and re fletch with the blazer heat vanes. They clear just fine now and I'm shooting a xpedition mx16 at 70# and a 30 1/2" draw and a hamskea limb driven rest. I know it's not the same just wanting to clarify.


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## luke308 (Nov 12, 2020)

im not sure what im looking at here,cant you just turn the nock a little in each direction until you get clearance, a 1/16 clearance from the cable is enougth,when i had this issue i would just turn the arrow nock until the vane on the cable side was angled down just a little so not to touch.


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## Derekg22 (Feb 12, 2019)

luke308 said:


> im not sure what im looking at here,cant you just turn the nock a little in each direction until you get clearance, a 1/16 clearance from the cable is enougth,when i had this issue i would just turn the arrow nock until the vane on the cable side was angled down just a little so not to touch.


I can do this....I have before....I can turn the shaft unit I have clearance....but I would suspect that kinda defeats the purpose of me spine indexing and nock tuning every bareshaft in attempt to get everything correct so that when I screw on a fixed blade broahead I know for certain that all ive done up to that point is correct...I always try and go the extra mile to ensure my equipment is correct... so that if there are any errors whatsoever, its only me or an error in my form to blame...


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## robertsdp2 (Feb 5, 2021)

I have the aae max stealth vane for on a 5mm axis arrow, same bow, with plenty of clearance. I think there is only .07” difference in the 2 vanes so you should have more clearance than that


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## 8025952 (Sep 7, 2020)

I'd be curious on cam angle, can try an arrow running down the cam next to the string.


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## NickLe76 (Apr 23, 2021)

I'm just a novice but something I've noticed in my tinkering... 

After nock tuning, be cognizant of the way you fletch. My opinion would be fletch so the "odd" vane is opposite the cables. Now it's at 12 o'clock, it should point to 9 o'clock. That should allow plenty of clearance. 

Again, I'm very new to this, and maybe shouldn't even be giving advice. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.


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## ProXXX (Oct 12, 2010)

I would change the tophats again.


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## NickLe76 (Apr 23, 2021)

NickLe76 said:


> I'm just a novice but something I've noticed in my tinkering...
> 
> After nock tuning, be cognizant of the way you fletch. My opinion would be fletch so the "odd" vane is opposite the cables. Now it's at 12 o'clock, it should point to 9 o'clock. That should allow plenty of clearance.
> 
> Again, I'm very new to this, and maybe shouldn't even be giving advice. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.


After nock tuning, mark the arrow and nock with a marker. Then you can twist the nock, while fletching, to accommodate where you want your fletchings to end up with the nock tune. 
This is what I do with my set up -AAE max stealth 4 fletch.


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## Derekg22 (Feb 12, 2019)

NickLe76 said:


> After nock tuning, mark the arrow and nock with a marker. Then you can twist the nock, while fletching, to accommodate where you want your fletchings to end up with the nock tune.
> This is what I do with my set up -AAE max stealth 4 fletch.


Not to start a debate but this can't possibly be right....the purpose of nock tuning the bare shaft is to see it shoot a perfect hole thru paper assuring that it's left the bow and is traveling perfectly straight...I then marked the arrow shaft and nock- marking the exact orientation I shot it off the bow...(meaning what side up, what side down) .....then lay it in the jig and add fletchings so it's now fletched and to be shot exactly as it was when it was shot bareshaft with a good hole thru paper....if u are twisting nocks between shooting it thru paper phase and fletching- then u have defeated the purpose of the entire excersize....


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## NickLe76 (Apr 23, 2021)

Derekg22 said:


> Not to start a debate but this can't possibly be right....the purpose of nock tuning the bare shaft is to see it shoot a perfect hole thru paper assuring that it's left the bow and is traveling perfectly straight...I then marked the arrow shaft and nock- marking the exact orientation I shot it off the bow...(meaning what side up, what side down) .....then lay it in the jig and add fletchings so it's now fletched and to be shot exactly as it was when it was shot bareshaft with a good hole thru paper....if u are twisting nocks between shooting it thru paper phase and fletching- then u have defeated the purpose of the entire excersize....


I agree with you. I didn't fully explain. It wouldn't make sense to nock tune then turn the nock.

The reason for marking the nock and arrow with a marker after nock tuning is this. After you twist the nock to put in the fletching jig to orient the fletchings so they don't hit the cable, you can twist it back to the tuned position. 

I believe last time I put a 3 vane configuration, I twisted the nock from 12 to 1 or 2, fletched the arrow, then twisted back to 12. 

Make sense?


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## NickLe76 (Apr 23, 2021)

Another reason I found to mark the arrow/nock after tuning is if you break the nock off, you don't have to nock tune again if You put the nock in the same way. 

Again, I'm putting my methods out there for correction. If someone knows any better, please let me know.


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## luke308 (Nov 12, 2020)

Derekg22 said:


> I can do this....I have before....I can turn the shaft unit I have clearance....but I would suspect that kinda defeats the purpose of me spine indexing and nock tuning every bareshaft in attempt to get everything correct so that when I screw on a fixed blade broahead I know for certain that all ive done up to that point is correct...I always try and go the extra mile to ensure my equipment is correct... so that if there are any errors whatsoever, its only me or an error in my form to blame...


i would try that first and see how they shoot before i stripped off all the vanes and started over, you can always do that if you dont like the results


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## Derekg22 (Feb 12, 2019)

luke308 said:


> i would try that first and see how they shoot before i stripped off all the vanes and started over, you can always do that if you dont like the results



i did this and it seems some flew okay while others didnt....at the end of the day, im trying to get down to the root cause of why i have so little clearance....if maybe all i need is some different size top hats to move the rest closer to center ill order them to make it right...idk


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## Derekg22 (Feb 12, 2019)

NickLe76 said:


> I agree with you. I didn't fully explain. It wouldn't make sense to nock tune then turn the nock.
> 
> The reason for marking the nock and arrow with a marker after nock tuning is this. After you twist the nock to put in the fletching jig to orient the fletchings so they don't hit the cable, you can twist it back to the tuned position.
> 
> ...



i see what u are saying now that you have provided more details!


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## Jjank589 (Jun 6, 2018)

Hard to say without seeing your bow in person but the rest looks very close to the riser. I agree, if tuned properly I haven’t seen that type of fletch contact issue; however, I was shooting blazer veins for a year and had a fletch contact issue were occasionally my pointer finger knuckle would creep up on my grip and make contact with the vane as the bow was fired. If you’re looking for a great low profile vane I recommend the Bohning X vanes 3 inch shield cut. It’s low profile, the shield cut keeps the vane off your face, durable, fletches well and flies great. I hope this helps.


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## John Lembo (12 mo ago)

I know this thread is a year old but I have a Vxr 28 and have the same issue what I did was slightly rotate my arrow so the fletchings clear the cable and it improved my arrow flight with broad-heads


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