# Help with Timberdoodle setup



## blakey (May 5, 2010)

I'm having trouble setting up a Timberdoodle rest on my Oneida Switchblade. I'm a 3under fingershooter, trying to set up the bow for short distances, indoors and field. Bare shaft tuning I can't seem to get the shaft to come down, no matter how high I raise the nockset. I'm beginning to wonder if my arrows are too heavy for the bottom plate (500 grains plus). I'm also having problems grouping the arrows center. They always fly right. I'm wondering again if the side plate is too weak for my setup. I have emailed the Bodoodle factory and they no longer produce the heavier gauge plates. if anyone has any thoughts about this I'd greatly appreciate them.


----------



## arrowshooters (Jun 5, 2006)

Move your nock back down to normal and adjust the spring tension on the rest at full draw. This should give you a fresh start.

Are they always shooting right or occasionally?


----------



## blakey (May 5, 2010)

arrowshooters said:


> Move your nock back down to normal and adjust the spring tension on the rest at full draw. This should give you a fresh start.


Thanks for that. I've moved the nockset down to my normal setting as you suggested, and I have dropped down to a slightly lighter arrow. Now I can get the bare shaft to hit on the horizontal with the fletched shafts, still going right, as are the fletched shafts. I'm still confused as to the purpose of the spring tension on the yoke. I won't be able to attempt to adjust at full draw as you suggest until I get to the club this weekend and get someone to help me. What do you regard as the optimum tension for this spring? Should it just support the arrow weight at full draw, or should it be solid? How much movement is proposed? Thanks again.


----------



## arrowshooters (Jun 5, 2006)

The spring should be adjusted so that it just barely holds the arrow up at full draw. It is actually something you can watch as you draw, but help is good. The "fins" are essentially there to hold the arrow, the sprin tension does the rest as far as cushioning the shot.

As for the going right, if you have already adjusted your rest, I would consider your release and the posibility that you are plucking the string.

I had very good success with this rest while shooting fat xx78's, but the switch to carbon had me switching to a FreeFlyte with a plunger. I am now shooting a "Drop Away" and will not look back.


----------



## blakey (May 5, 2010)

arrowshooters said:


> The spring should be adjusted so that it just barely holds the arrow up at full draw. It is actually something you can watch as you draw, but help is good. The "fins" are essentially there to hold the arrow, the sprin tension does the rest as far as cushioning the shot.
> 
> As for the going right, if you have already adjusted your rest, I would consider your release and the posibility that you are plucking the string.
> 
> I had very good success with this rest while shooting fat xx78's, but the switch to carbon had me switching to a FreeFlyte with a plunger. I am now shooting a "Drop Away" and will not look back.


I've adjusted the tenson of the spring as you suggested and am now getting the bare shaft in amongst the fletched. Also moved the rest further left and am now getting in the bull. so thanx for that. I use 2317 eastons, so I suppose that's similar to your experience with the XX78s? Our club President has recommended that I move to a FreeFlyte & plunger also. He is a top class recurve shooter. I am just worried that my arrows would be too wide and heavy for such a slight prong? Also we have severe probs over here with wind right to left. When I was using a NAP centerrest the arrow was being blown off the rest some days. Recurve shooters have clickers which holds the arrow in place for a while. And I was recommended to try the Timberdoodle first. FITA rules here don't allow dropaway rests. I thought I read somewhere one could not shoot them with fingers anyway? Thanx again for your advice, still learning. Cheers.


----------



## arrowshooters (Jun 5, 2006)

Wind is exactly why I switched to a dropaway. I will never go back to a conventional "finger rest". I talked about it here: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=917811&highlight=drop+away+rest

Some pics:


----------



## blakey (May 5, 2010)

arrowshooters said:


> Wind is exactly why I switched to a dropaway. I will never go back to a conventional "finger rest". I talked about it here: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=917811&highlight=drop+away+rest
> 
> Some pics:


Thanx very much for that. I read your other post and found it very interesting. However as a target archer I am not allowed a dropaway under Australian FITA barebow compound rules. But I will try to incorporate what you are saying about arrow torque into my release. If the Timberdoodle palls, then I will try the Cavalier. Thanks again.


----------

