# Bow tuning, timing issues. PSE EVO 7



## KSbowhunter501 (Dec 10, 2011)

Ok, just checked my ATA and Brace Height. ATA is 32 5/8", its supposed to be 32 1/4". Brace height is 8" and is supposed to be 7".

something's wrong here.


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## coltonm44 (Dec 19, 2010)

did u just get the bow,or replace strings i have the same bow and only had to put 1 turn in cable to get it lined up,u cant go by the draw stops due to one is on the out side of the cam and one is inside on smaller cam,have u had someone else shoot it thru paper or use a draw brd/shooting machine to see what it does,and make sure the cams and inner cams are set on the same pegs ,pse has it detailed on there web page all about the cam ,and it could be your arrow also i shoot 3555 and they tune really well let me know if i can help any more mark


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## P&y only (Feb 26, 2009)

8 inch brace???? where did you measure to?


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## KSbowhunter501 (Dec 10, 2011)

Yes I just got the bow. It was kinda like a new but last years left over. 

Brace Height. I'm a complete idot!! I measured from the deepest part of the grip to the inside of the string. But I burned an inch on the tape measure and it read 8". But I forgot to subtract that inch. lol sorry. 

As far as the ATA. It would be 3/8" of an inch off. Is that to much? Twist the buss cable?


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## Tlariat (May 11, 2008)

Your bow sounds like its in spec. I think simply adjusting the rest should do it.


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## P&y only (Feb 26, 2009)

You really only need to worry about the A to A measurement if the bow is not making weight. Do you have a SAFE way of checking your poundage max?


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## wolbear (Oct 28, 2005)

Some things to start with are this... first check the rest and arrow placement, verify the arrow is 90 degrees to the string ( I prefer to use levels, but whatever way you use to get close). I prefer to have the arrow passing thru the berger hole. Once you have established that the arrow is correctly centered, verify rest timing is correct. Are you using a d-loop, and if so, do you have soft knots, nocks, etc... between the arrow and the d-loop? Look at your d-loop and its shape, is it uniform and a "U" or does it angle to the top or bottom while the bow is at rest. These are the first steps I take, if these are all on and correctly set, (assuming the specs of the bow are on and seem to be close *remember the advertised specs are recommendations and not always exact) the next thing to look at would be cam lean/timing.


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

i would bet your poundage is low, but you should check that first, those bows it doesnt take much over ata to drop poundage. get that and DL checked and once you know where those are at you can adjust more accurately.

Where is the white timing marks on the cam and the cables?? are they inline or not??


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## helix33 (Jul 10, 2006)

The bow will have to be placed on a draw board to accurately check the cam timing. The timing marks are for reference points only. The ATA and brace height specs are also approximate and aren't to be taken as absolute. If the bow is making weight the ATA and Brace will be within acceptable tolerances. Add a few twists to the left yoke cable and slightly raise the D loop or slightly lower your rest and you'll probably be good thru paper. Always make sure the bow is maxed on poundage with the limb bolts all the way tightened up when tuning. If you use the tuning marks engraved on the PSE riser for center shot and elevation, instead of paper tuning I would do modified French tuning or kitchen sink tuning ala Nuts and Bolts. Then I would walk back tune. Paper isn't the do all tune but really just the beginning of a finely tuned bow.


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## helix33 (Jul 10, 2006)

Also on the Evo's I've owned I liked the feel of the bow better if the top cam draw stop hit just before the bottom cam draw stop. As long as they hit very close it's not an issue if thay don't hit at the exact same time. You can actually experiment and change the feel of the bow by the draw stop timing.


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