# Tuning your nock point



## MKD (Feb 8, 2003)

By the looks of the picture I would say the nock point is set ok. I know I will never be able to put every arrow exactly on the line. This is because in my case of shooter error. If the misses where a bit farther apart I might agree with going through the trouble of moving the nock. Hitting a 1" thick line at 20 yards consistently seams hard to me. But since you peeked my interest I will do this test and post a picture of the results.


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## tedhunter (May 3, 2004)

*Thanks*

Still going to paper tune for nock set, but have been looking for info on this for ages. Thanks for a good post - something else to print out and put in my binder along with the Walk Back method.


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## bumper (Aug 27, 2004)

The diagram does indeed show a nock point disturbance. However, the best method of setting nock will come from group tuning. If the group tends to be up and down, lower nock. If group is side to side, raise nock. This is not carved in stone. Do not be afraid to do the opposite. On 90% of my bows my first step is usually raising the nock.


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## Guest (Aug 22, 2005)

*Missing something?*

Maybe I am missing something but how do you know that the nock is too low and it is not a matter of just moving your sight pin up?


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## MKD (Feb 8, 2003)

*Photos of shoot*

Ok here is the first photo of my shots at the line. If I am hunting lines I am in big trouble :teeth: . I have to say that most of the shots off the line are because of shooter error. I know that I am not the best shot when it comes to target shooting. For me to say one way or another that my nock needed moved because of these results is hard to determine.


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## bumper (Aug 27, 2004)

You want your arrows impacting exactly in line with each other across a horizontal line. Let's say you are shooting at 20 yards and all of your arrows are 3 inches high. Then you can move your sight. But is some arrows are below the line, some right on, some above, you need to adjust nocking point. Of course, it will depend on your skill level. If you are satisfied with a 3-4 inch difference at 20 yards, do not adjust your nock. But if want to start breaking nocks and tearing fletchings, experiment with nock point adjustment. Adjustments should be made in very, very small increments (1/32nd of an inch at a time) Be sure to mark carefully so you can always get back to where you started.


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## MKD (Feb 8, 2003)

*Another Photo*

Here is a pic of shots at a almost life like size lung area of a deer that I drew. From these shots I would say I am satified with the way I am shooting. Please understand that by no means am I even remotely consisdered an expert when it comes to bow tuning. I myself try to make sure that the bow is within specs and hits where aimed, even if there is a little fish tailing etc. 

The two wayward shots are because I was trying to hit the outline of the target area as not to damage the arrows and shot to wide.

Ikrus thanks for the info.


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## bumper (Aug 27, 2004)

MKD, I understand what you are saying. You are not hunting lines and your group into the deer is very good by bowhunting standards. But here is my take. Can you shoot better? If your bow is properly tuned, you will. What about broadheads? I would say if they group as well as your field points, then you are good to go. I guess my point is I have the feeling you have gone as far as want to as far as accuracy. My feeling is a very slight nocking point change will cut that group size in half. What kind of rest are you shooting?


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## MKD (Feb 8, 2003)

bumper said:


> MKD, I understand what you are saying. You are not hunting lines and your group into the deer is very good by bowhunting standards. But here is my take. Can you shoot better? If your bow is properly tuned, you will. What about broadheads? I would say if they group as well as your field points, then you are good to go. I guess my point is I have the feeling you have gone as far as want to as far as accuracy. My feeling is a very slight nocking point change will cut that group size in half. What kind of rest are you shooting?


bumper, I have not gone as far as I want with accuracy I went as far as I am capable of going on my own. True I would like to shoot better and have a bow that is fine tuned but I am not equipped or have the knowledge. The pro shop where I bought my bows love to sell them to you but they never seam to want to make sure they are properly tuned. I understand many people believe that if the bow is not shooting bullet holes through paper or driving tacks with bare shafts then the bow is not tuned. That is them, but for me I want to make sure that I can hit what I am aiming at. I have veiwed many of threads on AT and have learned a great deal about bows but like I said I am not equipped or can afford to equep myself to go to the next level.

I use Shockwave mechanical heads and these where suggested to me by the pro shop after I told him that I was having trouble getting my broadheads to shoot well. He never offered to look at my set up. So I have been using them with much success. I also use a WB rest.
I am not using the pro shop as an excuse just stating the facts.


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## cloquet (Jan 12, 2004)

IcEJeSTeR said:


> Maybe I am missing something but how do you know that the nock is too low and it is not a matter of just moving your sight pin up?


When I have my bow shooting well with field points I set my nock height by shooting a broadhead. If it shoots high I raise the nock height (lower my whisker biscuit), or vise versa. I find that broadheads plane and field points don't, so when you have both impacting at the same height the nock is set at optimum location. With my WB it is at 3/16 inch nock high, (measured with a spirit level). Seems to work well for me, simple and effective. Anybody here tell me if this is flawed logic?


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## rogbo (Jan 2, 2004)

cloquet said:


> When I have my bow shooting well with field points I set my nock height by shooting a broadhead. If it shoots high I raise the nock height (lower my whisker biscuit), or vise versa. I find that broadheads plane and field points don't, so when you have both impacting at the same height the nock is set at optimum location. With my WB it is at 3/16 inch nock high, (measured with a spirit level). Seems to work well for me, simple and effective. Anybody here tell me if this is flawed logic?



Not flawed at all. This is broadhead tuning and the goal of the bowhunter shooting a fixed blade broadhead. Look, when I tune I shoot threw paper at close range. I get the best tear I can possibly get. Maybe it's a bullet hole and maybe it's not but it is the smallest I can manage. Then it is off to the range. I shoot field points and broadheads and tweak the rest location (up/down, left/right) to get the two different heads to hit together, or at least as close as possible. I do this at 20 30 and 40 yards. then a final sight in and go hunt something. Papertuning is a great starting point and gives trackable(?) feedback to show the effect of small changes in your set up. But the final goal should always be accuracy with our broadheads and the cleanest flight (penetration issue) possible.


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## JMCFAN (Jan 29, 2005)

How do you tune your nock pint with a drop away? INtial set up etc?


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## stehawk (Aug 28, 2004)

cloquet said:


> When I have my bow shooting well with field points I set my nock height by shooting a broadhead. If it shoots high I raise the nock height (lower my whisker biscuit), or vise versa. I find that broadheads plane and field points don't, so when you have both impacting at the same height the nock is set at optimum location. With my WB it is at 3/16 inch nock high, (measured with a spirit level). Seems to work well for me, simple and effective. Anybody here tell me if this is flawed logic?



Not flawed at all. You are Micro tuning your setup. Actually, you are doing and getting the same results as the line tuning that started this thread. First off, you can not get you bow "perfectly" tuned with paper tuning or bare shaft tuning. The method above of line tuning and walk back tuning put the final adjustments on your setup to make it perfect. It takes very small adjustments when you get to this level of tuning. Once you get your setup perfectly tuned you will see that field points and broadheads fly very, very close to each other. The line tuning and the walk back tuning should be called micro tuning and done last (IMHO).Then you won't have to buy expensive mechanical broadheads and shoot fixed blade Thunderheads like me. :teeth: 
Luck to all. :thumbs_up


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## stehawk (Aug 28, 2004)

JMCFAN said:


> How do you tune your nock pint with a drop away? INtial set up etc?


Just like all the rest. To corect left and right -- move the rest. To correct the up and down-- move the nocking point. Start with the arrow lined up on your berger hole and your nocking point 1/8 above 90 degrees on your string. Then paper tune and bare shaft tune and get your set up close. Then try the line tuning or broadhead tuning and walk back tuning to put the final micro tune on it. Then you can have some really forgiving tight groups.


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## ewsIII (Nov 3, 2004)

MKD said:


> Here is a pic of shots at a almost life like size lung area of a deer that I drew. From these shots I would say I am satified with the way I am shooting. Please understand that by no means am I even remotely consisdered an expert when it comes to bow tuning. I myself try to make sure that the bow is within specs and hits where aimed, even if there is a little fish tailing etc.
> 
> The two wayward shots are because I was trying to hit the outline of the target area as not to damage the arrows and shot to wide.
> 
> Ikrus thanks for the info.




Don't sell yourself short, it is amazing what one can do with a properly tuned bow. It is also good to take on knowledge from this site, I paid to learn what I know! Just don't believe everything you here on here either. There are some real credible folks on here!


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