# ILF or Olympic recurve bows for target practice



## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

Hello.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1588147
This thread good discussion of first recurve bow. 

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/shooting-the-stickbow-book-2nd-edition-by-anthony-camera.html
This book good ground-up beginner archery manual. Twenty dollars, 400 pages, everything necessary to surf the learning curve under one roof. 

I did the same thing you are contemplating. I had a cheese-o overly-heavy bow for about a month that was impossible for me to shoot, so I ordered, sight-unseen, a 68" ILF metal riser and limbs of good quality. Best move and investment I ever made. Since have moved sideways to the rest of it all, but that initial Oly-like rig was a wonderful shooter to learn on and got me on my way. 

Others can recommend great ILF setups for you if you keep pumping out the questions. 

Good luck.


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## steve morley (Dec 24, 2005)

If you can join a local club and do a beginner course they normally supply a bow during the training, this gives you time to develop good Form with a light bow and gives you time to figure the direction you want to go with your shooting, you already have some idea but their are several options and styles so you have time to investigate. I'm sure you will get to seem more bows and try some as well


In Europe Target, Field and 3D is more popular than Bowhunting so a lot more quality longer riser wood bows available, if you're interested I can supply some web sites for you to browse.


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

Steve gives good advice. If, however, you are in an archery vacuum, you'll have to make some educated guesses on that first bow. To be honest, a 62" or 64" bow would probably serve you quite well as long as you are careful to ensure that the draw weight is such that you can develop and maintain good archery form without undue straining or fatigue during your practice sessions. Folk with the uber-long draw lengths may need the 66+" bows, but if you think that you are in the 28-ish draw ballpark, then you're certainly fine on the shorter bows (actually, they're not really that short!)

Lots of great bows in the traditional styling in that 62"-ish length. You could even go the route of the very inexpensive Samick wooden takedowns in the $120 range that would present a minimal investment and allow you to catch your archer's stride until you make more experienced decisions for your long-term equipment desires. These types of bows have launched a thousand ships, to be sure. I use one for lightweight form work and guests. Heck, you might shoot one of those for six months and decide to go with an English longbow ... who knows?

Just another option off the top of my head to consider.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

pyro -



pyrocyborg said:


> Hi!
> I'm a large built 6 feet man and my draw length is something around 28''. Right handed, but left eye dominant, so I think I might need a left "handed" bow if I read properly.


A few thoughts. A "large built 6 feet man" and a 28" draw length don't generally go together. Odds are you'll be a bit longer than that.

Also getting mixed signals. ILF bows were typically Olympic bows, but the coupling system has since been modified for other purposes. 
If we assume your draw length will be closer to 30" than to 28", a 70" rig would be optimal. 
That would mean a 25" riser and long limbs. You can easily get that type of bow within your budget. 
The shortest I would go would be 68", meaning a 25" riser and medium limbs or preferably a 23" riser with longs. 

While there is room for variation, a lot of people really like the Excel risers or it's bigger brother the Horizon. If you think you want the longer Horizon, consider the Flute Forged Plus instead. More riser for the same amount of money about $250) . Really decent entry level limbs are in the $80 - $120 range).

The link that Thin Man provided will give you the details.

The eye dominance thing gets tricky, since with x-eye dom people there may be a tug of war between handedness and eye dominance. While is usually better to go with the stronger or dominant eye, there are exceptions - and they are hard to tell from here. 

Viper1 out.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

You've got a choice to make:

Performance or looks.

There are 23-25" wood risers but that would require substantially more money as they are custom.

Personally I think Viper has the right idea. That SF riser is great (I've owned +$600 risers and I rate the SF right up there). Medium limbs would work, longs would too.

-Grant


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

There are some beautiful one piece recurves made, up to 66", but you aren't likely to get one for under $450. Same for a nice wood riser ILF bow, you can easily spend that much just for the riser. Used prices, if you are lucky enough to find one makes it a little more possible but you will most likely need some patience until one shows up. The entry level wood riser bows I've seen all leave a bit to be desired in the "I want a bow that I will love to look at" criteria. They seem to shoot fine, but like you said they are shorter than you want anyway. 

I think it's tough to beat a metal riser for pure target work especially in the price range you mentioned. They don't have to be ugly either. 

I'll defer to others on the Oly-style or ILF bows and limbs since I've never had one. I will say that I have seen several metal riser ILF target bows that I though were very nice looking. Spigarelli, Bernardini, and Hoyt all make some really nice looking risers, and I'm an exotic wood custom recurve guy. Also, I've seen many times that a beginner can get along with relatively modest limbs, so if you watched the classifieds for a nice used target riser you could put together a nice looking and great shooting rig. The classifieds will be your friend.

Whatever you buy you probably won't be able to try it first, not a big deal since you don't really know what you like anyway. I would much rather buy a proven and popular bow used, sight unseen than be restricted to what I can try out first. Read on this forum, the more target oriented FITA forum (http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=24), and see what people like and what looks good to your eye. You aren't likely to get a bad bow, so buy a nice and frequently recommended used one and see how it goes. It's unlikely this will be your only bow.

You should also check out and search for opinions on Trad Talk, another forum that has a good bunch of knowledgeable target shooters...http://tradtalk.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=1


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## Arron (Nov 18, 2012)

I would say in the Hoyt line either the 23" Excel or 25" Horizon or the 25" SF riser. If you would like a little more of the traditional look to go with the metal riser look at some of traditional ILF wood glass limbs such as TradTechs wood glass limbs. A riser in black or black out with wood grained limbs can look pretty sharp in my opinion.


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## pyrocyborg (Nov 3, 2013)

Thanks everyone for your answers! Thin Man, I've read the Viper1's post you linked and well, it was an incredible amount of information in a small package... Almost everything I needed to know, so sorry that I started another topic 

I think I'll go for "raw performance" as a first bow. I mean, I want to increase my skills, learn and practice as much as I can... so anything that will help me do that is more than welcome. As Easykeeper said, it probably won't be my only bow anyways 

For my draw length: I have smaller arms and longer legs compared to the average 6 feet man. I mean, I am a road bike cyclist, and I need to get a smaller frame to get a good fit, if you are familiar with that. Anyways, I will measure my draw length again, just to be sure... 

I had two risers in mind for my budget: Hoyt and the SF forged one. However, I think Hoyt offers a better warranty, isn't? I've read some negative reviews about the SF (e.g. cracking), but still, we can read negative feedback about almost everything. I think I'll take some cheap SF limbs to start with.


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## pyrocyborg (Nov 3, 2013)

Arron said:


> I would say in the Hoyt line either the 23" Excel or 25" Horizon or the 25" SF riser. If you would like a little more of the traditional look to go with the metal riser look at some of traditional ILF wood glass limbs such as TradTechs wood glass limbs. A riser in black or black out with wood grained limbs can look pretty sharp in my opinion.


Allright, I'll think about that, thanks!


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

No apologies needed on starting a topic, even one that is hammered to death daily - if not hourly. 

A forum is an ongoing and interactive flow of information, much of it recycled, though occasionally spiced with the rare nugget of a truly unique and earth-shattering revelation. Great questions beget great answers, and, after all, the "search" function is such a tedious tool when one can simply belly up to the bar and join the conversation.

Otherwise, a forum could "yak it up" for a couple of months and then simply close down, having said all worth saying, and relying upon an archive search for any pertinent data. 

Then again, that's what a good book is for, isn't it? 

I don't subscribe to the "look it up for yourself" attitude on a forum. Some may not even know how to phrase what they are trying to look up in the first place. There's always a quick and courteous answer waiting in the wings for the asking. In addition, if one is observant, the repeated Q&A sessions, no matter how mundane, can serve to further illuminate and refresh all participants. 

Glad your juices are starting to flow on the future bow purchase.


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## Nekekal (Dec 25, 2012)

I certainly understand the short draw thing. I am almost, used to be but have shrunk, 6 foot and I have to lie to get the bow drawn to 27 inches. And that is after my draw length got longer with a lot of practice. Your draw length might get longer too, mine seems to vary a little as I search for an anchor.

I shoot with both eyes open, guns too, and I don't think eye dominance is that important when you use both of them.

I also had wondered about bow length. My first bow was 58 inches. With my draw length, I had no problems, especially initially. But I didn't like the grip so I bought one with a different grip that was 60 inches long, this was fine for me and I like this bow. Fast, easy to shoot, and I have had a lot of fun. Then I read about how longer is better, so I find one with a grip I like that is 68 inches long. Even with my short draw length, 68 seemed better than 60. But then it broke. A flaw in the wood riser. I almost switched to metal after that, but found a 64 inch bow at a garage sale. I do like this bow. It seems like a nice compromise between the 60 inch and 68 inch bow. The 68 throws an arrow pretty slowly.

These are all one piece wood recurves which is what I find attractive also. And before you write me off as having too much money, they are all used, vintage bows and my average cost is around $60. So $240 for the batch of them, about half your budget. I would suggest you pick up something used in the weight that you want, and shoot until you decide what you really want. Used bows can be sold for about what you paid for them so it isn't a huge loss although I keep them because the are beautiful to look at. I even had the broken one fixed so it looks nice hanging there and does work.

Good luck.


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## longbowguy (Nov 14, 2004)

First, I think you ought to resolve the lefty/righty issue. A cheap way to do that is to buy an inexpensive vintage bow on the used market that can be shot both ways. Most of these were made by Ben Pearson. Some are solid fibreglas, some wood/fibreglas laminated. I have several I use myself as trainers and loaners. I suggest 35 pounds to start. You should be able to find one for well under $100. - lbg


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

64" TradTech Pinnacle II Traditional Bow Package?


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## northern boy (Aug 25, 2010)

Don,t overlook the raven prestige fx riser 190.00 for 23" or 200.00 for 25" riser great riser for the money same as the older samick vision II . Love mine grip is almost the same as the hoyt horizon or excel. Great value.


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## K31Scout (Sep 17, 2003)

I had my blue 25" KAP WinstarII riser camo film dipped and it's a little easier on the eyes. It's a decent cheap riser that I have several sets of limbs for training and hunting/target/field. I have a few vintage one piece recurves but honestly they are for show these days.


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## pyrocyborg (Nov 3, 2013)

Longbowguy, as you said, I think I'll try to solve the lefty/righty issue first. I'll start the beginner's course this week and will be using their recurve bows.

As I did not shoot more than 100 arrows in my life (and it goes back a few years ago), it shouldn't be hard for me to swap to my eye-dominant hand. Will probably feel awkward at first, but there will be an intructor to help me.

As for my draw length: when in "eagle" T position (relaxed, but still perpendicular), we have measured 70 inches from the longest finger tip to the other. According to different calculations, I either have a 27.5 or 28 draw length. So, I guess I should be better server with a 66 bow? Or would a 68 be just fine? Anyways, I'll try to try one at the archery range.

I called the hunting/fishing retailer near my location, and even if they carry Hoyt stuff, they do not carry any olympic recurve item, either be limbs or riser. As for the used market, there is next to nothing right now except compound bows and kids stuff. Guess I'll have to buy it online without trying it first. 

Thansk everyone for your help!


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Pyro -

Seriously, the SF Forged is a MUCH better riser for the money. And .. It comes with a good flipper rest and plunger, if you are so inclined. 
And if you buy from Lancaster, they will stand behind it. 
Talk to John Wert at LAS, explain to him what you want and he'll set it up for you.

Please forget the calculations for DL.
Charts and calculators tell me I have a 26" draw, oddly enough my draw is closer to 29.25". 

Viper1 out.


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