# instructions for you to build a draw board



## evox (Jan 5, 2014)

not sure if it's been posted before but I saw it tonight browsing the internet. here's some instructions on a super simple draw board build from field and stream.
http://www.fieldandstream.com/artic...ep-how-build-diy-draw-board-your-compound-bow

http://www.fieldandstream.com/files/imagecache/photo-article/photo/38356/drawboardfinal1.jpg


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## itz_adam989 (Jun 7, 2012)

bookmarked that page!!!!!!


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## kaj4 (Mar 27, 2010)

Have to save this...thanks!


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## bowguy357 (Jan 2, 2014)

has anyone done this yet? any pro's cons to the draw board? seems like it would be a bit unstable


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## pman (Jan 16, 2009)

I built something like this 'cept I did bolt through on the pipe flange and also use a back up loop from carabiner around the bow string back to the 'biner.... It works as a verticle draw for me as I clamp the DB to the side of my work bench. The bow does balance out on the pipe...


bowguy357 said:


> has anyone done this yet? any pro's cons to the draw board? seems like it would be a bit unstable


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## 74Superlead (Jan 19, 2009)

Thanks for posting!


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## Gabbler1 (Aug 22, 2013)

Could'nt you build one on top of an ironing board?...its kinda sturdy....and it has adjustable leg height.
what do you think?


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## TNDeerguy (Jan 25, 2010)

I built one this morning using the design and it works great for what it is, and for what I'll be using it for. I will say that I did modify the design a bit after it's first use and put the flange and pipe offset on one side of the board, and not in the middle, so that the bow is in its "natural" position during a draw cycle. I got all the parts at Lowes—$6 lumber, $35 for winch and strap, flange and pipe were $14.


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## evox (Jan 5, 2014)

I built one as well. I think using a 2x8 would help it balance a little better it just needs some more offset.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

Gabbler1 said:


> Could'nt you build one on top of an ironing board?...its kinda sturdy....and it has adjustable leg height.
> what do you think?


possibly- but being only "kinda" sturdy, I'd probably just use the 2x6(8)


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## bowguy357 (Jan 2, 2014)

i found a good price on the trailer winch 600 pound cap. and norther tool online special 18.99 comes with strap or cable. 

link = http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...i_sku=148815&gclid=CM7ih-vm-b0CFYFhMgodmlUAjg


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## moak11 (May 15, 2009)

Can someone post pictures of their build based on the article? Thanks.


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## elkbow69 (May 7, 2010)

moak11 do a search in THIS forum section there are several draw boards that have been made. Really easy and few tools needed.


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## 5ringking (May 25, 2005)

tagged!!!!!


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## Bogey-1 (Mar 2, 2014)

bowguy357 said:


> i found a good price on the trailer winch 600 pound cap. and norther tool online special 18.99 comes with strap or cable.
> 
> link = http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...i_sku=148815&gclid=CM7ih-vm-b0CFYFhMgodmlUAjg


Just ordered one, thanks for the link


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## bonecollector66 (Mar 2, 2011)

tag


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## Rex D (Mar 23, 2013)

I used this as the basis for my draw board.. I did a couple of things different though. I used a 3/4" paddle bit and drilled an offset hole so the bow wouldn't turn when drawing back and be straight a full draw. I secured the floor flange to the bottom of the 2X6 and secured with wood fasteners. This is much more secure and uses not just the screws to secure the pipe but also the hole in the 2X6. I used a piece of rubber hose and electric tape to keep the pipe from scratching the bow. I then screwed down a metal yard stick to determine draw lengths. After this I cut a piece of carpet. used the same paddle bit to cut a hole in it, slid it down over the pipe and stapled the carpet along the outside to the 2x6.. this makes sure nothing gets scratched.

I bought a 1,000lb winch with a cable already on it for $21 at harbor freight. I had to cut the 2x6 so the handle would crank.. It's very secure.


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## Alaska at heart (Aug 25, 2009)

Posting for future reference. Thanks for the original link to the F&S illustration and subsequent posters who put it to use. Mounting the pipe flange on the bottom was smart and eliminates the potential for scuffing your bow as well with the carpet piece. Nice going.......:thumbs_up


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## droppixel (Nov 5, 2010)

Agree on the bottomb mount and carpet or some form of padding. Question is what do you use the hook underneath for?


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## roosclan (Oct 1, 2010)

I see what I'm doing next weekend...


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## roosclan (Oct 1, 2010)

Rex D said:


> I used this as the basis for my draw board.. I did a couple of things different though. I used a 3/4" paddle bit and drilled an offset hole so the bow wouldn't turn when drawing back and be straight a full draw. I secured the floor flange to the bottom of the 2X6 and secured with wood fasteners. This is much more secure and uses not just the screws to secure the pipe but also the hole in the 2X6. I used a piece of rubber hose and electric tape to keep the pipe from scratching the bow. I then screwed down a metal yard stick to determine draw lengths. After this I cut a piece of carpet. used the same paddle bit to cut a hole in it, slid it down over the pipe and stapled the carpet along the outside to the 2x6.. this makes sure nothing gets scratched.
> 
> I bought a 1,000lb winch with a cable already on it for $21 at harbor freight. I had to cut the 2x6 so the handle would crank.. It's very secure.


OK, so the only flange and pipe I could find will not screw in more than 1 or 2 turns when screwing in from the bottom of the flange. Is this what you found, or did you find a pipe that wasn't a tapered thread?


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## sull625 (Feb 6, 2012)

Tagged


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## bedontadam (May 31, 2010)

Great info! Saved for later


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

*Modular draw board...can go winch on left or winch or right side*



1/2-inch threaded pipe nipple.
Use a pipe wrench, to spin the threaded pipe into the floor flange.
Wrap with electrical tape. This 1/2-inch pipe is a nice fit for the curve on the grip of your bow.



Winch is mounted on plywood plate.
Pipe is mounted on a block of 2x4.
Unistrut rail for the backbone.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Nitty Gritty details.



Turnbuckle to fine tune things.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Backup loop of paracord.

Wrap the paracord loop around the bowstring.
IF your d-loop decides to let go,
the draw board is STILL attached to your bowstring.


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## roosclan (Oct 1, 2010)

Is there a particular reason the winch is not in line with your nock point/rest/ whatever? Does it even matter?


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## NJlungbuster (Sep 14, 2006)

Tagged!


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## BluMeanie (May 5, 2014)

roosclan said:


> Is there a particular reason the winch is not in line with your nock point/rest/ whatever? Does it even matter?


The "misalignment" is to simulate the way a person draws a bow, to keep the bow "balanced" on the pipe which is simulating the bowhand-fulcrum.


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## roosclan (Oct 1, 2010)

BluMeanie said:


> The "misalignment" is to simulate the way a person draws a bow, to keep the bow "balanced" on the pipe which is simulating the bowhand-fulcrum.


Interesting. I hadn't thought of it that way. My weekends have been too busy to get mine made, so hopefully this weekend I can get mine made. I may just leave the pipe centered on the board instead of moving it to get the rest centered with the winch.


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## orarcher (Jun 3, 2006)

BluMeanie said:


> The "misalignment" is to simulate the way a person draws a bow, to keep the bow "balanced" on the pipe which is simulating the bowhand-fulcrum.


Im not sure I follow this can anybody explain


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## elkbow69 (May 7, 2010)

your elbow is usually higher than the grip so you mount the winch 3" higher than the grip so that the bow is basically perpendicular to floor at full draw. 

I made my board and use a eye bolt to ru ncable for winch thru at about 3" high to get the bow (arrow) level with floor at full draw.


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## roosclan (Oct 1, 2010)

elkbow69 said:


> your elbow is usually higher than the grip so you mount the winch 3" higher than the grip so that the bow is basically perpendicular to floor at full draw.
> 
> I made my board and use a eye bolt to ru ncable for winch thru at about 3" high to get the bow (arrow) level with floor at full draw.


Do you have pics of your setup with bow and arrow loaded?


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## 167_12PT (Apr 21, 2011)

Nice


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## NJlungbuster (Sep 14, 2006)

Bump. Haven't seen any new ones built.


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## NJlungbuster (Sep 14, 2006)

Maybe I missed this somewhere in the various draw board build threads but I need to know. Where do you start the ruler on the draw board to get a precise draw length measurement? Thanks.


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## NJlungbuster (Sep 14, 2006)

Nobody knows where to put the ruler?


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## BluMeanie (May 5, 2014)

NJlungbuster said:


> Nobody knows where to put the ruler?


The "zero point" is supposed to be 1.75" forward of the grip-fulcrum or Berger hole (i.e. deduct 1.75" plus the thickness of whatever pipe/dowel/whatever you are using to hold the bow, and go back from there).


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## NJlungbuster (Sep 14, 2006)

BluMeanie said:


> The "zero point" is supposed to be 1.75" forward of the grip-fulcrum or Berger hole (i.e. deduct 1.75" plus the thickness of whatever pipe/dowel/whatever you are using to hold the bow, and go back from there).


Ok. Now, can I get the dumbed down version. Lol thanks.


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## idahobow84 (Mar 20, 2011)

Tagged


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## returnofsid (Jun 18, 2013)

I have a question about cranking the bow back...possibly TOO FAR!

When we draw our bows, we feel the back wall. When cranking the bow back, with the Winch, how do we know when to stop? I'd worry about damaging something, by over cranking!


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

You have to watch the draw stops to know when to stop.


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## K.G.K. (Jun 27, 2011)

Tag for later


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## NJlungbuster (Sep 14, 2006)

BluMeanie said:


> The "zero point" is supposed to be 1.75" forward of the grip-fulcrum or Berger hole (i.e. deduct 1.75" plus the thickness of whatever pipe/dowel/whatever you are using to hold the bow, and go back from there).


can somebody explain this as a dumbed down version? lol thanks


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## roosclan (Oct 1, 2010)

NJlungbuster said:


> can somebody explain this as a dumbed down version? lol thanks


Draw length is measured from a point 1.75" forward from the back side of the grip (frequently ends up being the front of the riser). Put your yard stick 1.75" past the pipe sticking out of your board. If your flange is on the bottom, then cut the yard stick at the back side of the pipe. If your flange is on top, lay the flange over the pipe and cut the yard stick where it meets the flange.


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## NJlungbuster (Sep 14, 2006)

roosclan said:


> Draw length is measured from a point 1.75" forward from the back side of the grip (frequently ends up being the front of the riser). Put your yard stick 1.75" past the pipe sticking out of your board. If your flange is on the bottom, then cut the yard stick at the back side of the pipe. If your flange is on top, lay the flange over the pipe and cut the yard stick where it meets the flange.


Ok I'm tracking now. I'm actually planning on mounting the flange under or on the inside of my work bench and either mount it to the front so the bow is drawn in shooting position or laying down on top. I'll post pictures when completed. Got the winch today.


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## Rex D (Mar 23, 2013)

droppixel said:


> Agree on the bottomb mount and carpet or some form of padding. Question is what do you use the hook underneath for?


The hook on the bottom is used to hold the bow scale. I tend to just hang the cable and scale from the hook when I'm not using the draw board.


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## Rex D (Mar 23, 2013)

roosclan said:


> OK, so the only flange and pipe I could find will not screw in more than 1 or 2 turns when screwing in from the bottom of the flange. Is this what you found, or did you find a pipe that wasn't a tapered thread?


I just bought a 8" piece of pre cut black pipe and a floor flange from home depot. No problem getting it to screw in enough.


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## BluMeanie (May 5, 2014)

NJlungbuster said:


> can somebody explain this as a dumbed down version? lol thanks





roosclan said:


> Draw length is measured from a point 1.75" forward from the back side of the grip (frequently ends up being the front of the riser). Put your yard stick 1.75" past the pipe sticking out of your board. If your flange is on the bottom, then cut the yard stick at the back side of the pipe. If your flange is on top, lay the flange over the pipe and cut the yard stick where it meets the flange.





NJlungbuster said:


> Ok I'm tracking now. I'm actually planning on mounting the flange under or on the inside of my work bench and either mount it to the front so the bow is drawn in shooting position or laying down on top. I'll post pictures when completed. Got the winch today.


Sorry - did not see the question. Yes, what _roosclan_ typed. If you are using 3/4" black pipe (which has an O.D. of nearly 1-1/16"), you would "start" your tape/ruler just shy of 2-13/16" from the end, and put THAT against the edge of the pipe going-away from the bow (extending toward the winch).

Measure, of course. Please do not take for granted what you purchase is exactly what I typed. Especially if you pad the pipe a bit with something to keep from marking the bow-grip. (a layer of electrical tape should be sufficient, if all you are making is a draw-table and not a shooting-machine)


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## ctownshooter (Jun 6, 2013)

subscribed


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## BoHunter0210 (Oct 3, 2011)

marked for later


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## #40Fan (Apr 2, 2014)

Built something similar to this last week. Works great. If you have a Harbor Freight near you, the ratcheting boat/atv/jet ski puller works great. Get a caribeaner (sp?) while you are there to hook to your d-loop.


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

to mount the pipe I think it will be safer to just drill a hole same size as the pipe/rod and stick it into the hole, then secure it on the other side of the board.


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## BluMeanie (May 5, 2014)

#40Fan said:


> Built something similar to this last week. Works great. If you have a Harbor Freight near you, the ratcheting boat/atv/jet ski puller works great. Get a caribeaner (sp?) while you are there to hook to your d-loop.


Just as a quick FYI: Academy has essentially the same boat winches, for the same prices (within a dollar or two).


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## johnnyshave73 (Jul 21, 2012)

Made this today on my day off. Went to harbor freight for the winch (20% off coupon) came to $22. Also while I was in purchased smaller safety chain clips for the winch. Homedepot for a 1/2 flange. <-- Was $6 cheaper than lowes. Also purchased a 4 inch pipe, then all of the fixtures. Drilled a few holes mounted everything and was done with it. Even offset everything 3 inches. drew it back with my carbon matrix and fixed all of my timing issues. My next purchase is going to be a scale for it. Eventually when I build a bigger work bench I will turn it into a vertical draw board. Pictures to follow!


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## johnnyshave73 (Jul 21, 2012)




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## eskimoohunt (Dec 21, 2008)

Rex D said:


> I used this as the basis for my draw board.. I did a couple of things different though. I used a 3/4" paddle bit and drilled an offset hole so the bow wouldn't turn when drawing back and be straight a full draw. I secured the floor flange to the bottom of the 2X6 and secured with wood fasteners. This is much more secure and uses not just the screws to secure the pipe but also the hole in the 2X6. I used a piece of rubber hose and electric tape to keep the pipe from scratching the bow. I then screwed down a metal yard stick to determine draw lengths. After this I cut a piece of carpet. used the same paddle bit to cut a hole in it, slid it down over the pipe and stapled the carpet along the outside to the 2x6.. this makes sure nothing gets scratched.
> 
> I bought a 1,000lb winch with a cable already on it for $21 at harbor freight. I had to cut the 2x6 so the handle would crank.. It's very secure.


Tag


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## bowboysp (Mar 9, 2005)

marked


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## wagtail (May 5, 2011)

Tag


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## iheart archery (Dec 12, 2012)

Tagged


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## wvbownut (Aug 15, 2003)

has anyone made one out of the trex stuff. I have a piece of it laying around and was just wondering.


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## Rredle (Jul 14, 2012)

Thanks


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## NJlungbuster (Sep 14, 2006)

Well I finally got around to taking a couple pictures to show off my draw board. I've used it a bunch and love it but I still haven't gotten around to screwing a measuring tape to the side of my bench to measure draw length. Basically I've just used it to check timing but I love it. I drilled a hole all the way through my bench leg so I could mount the flange to the back side out of the way. Then I mounted the winch just above the bar so it draws correctly. I may move it closer to the bar so it's easier to see the cams without bouncing back and forth. Either way, this was a very easy build that's worth it's weight in gold.


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## Buckhorn70 (Dec 5, 2004)

Tag


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## escorza88 (Oct 14, 2012)

Following.


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## OregonKDS (Mar 6, 2014)

Tagged


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## turkeyhunter60 (Apr 19, 2010)

Tagged for Draw Board.


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## steve101610 (Nov 8, 2012)

Tagged


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## skiingcappy (May 17, 2013)

Tagged


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## MDCII (Jan 25, 2014)

Tagged


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## Mbmadness (May 19, 2009)

Tagged


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## Mbmadness (May 19, 2009)

Do you mount the winch level , higher or lower than the part that holds the bow ?


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## EliteHunt3r (Mar 16, 2015)

Very helpful


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## tayb0w (May 28, 2005)

Has anyone built this as shown in the original post with the floor flange on the bow side and are you happy with it? I have all the parts to assemble with the floor flange on the bow side. I am sure it is stronger to assemble per a recent post (drill a hole and mount the flange on the back), but I am not sure it is necessary...


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## Welpracing (Mar 5, 2015)

Tagged


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## 60435 (Mar 20, 2012)

*hook and tb*

hi im selling these on my website, low profile short stroke tb and hook , they work on any db


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## cg2737 (Mar 19, 2010)

Here is a screen shot from the Field and Stream article.


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## escorza88 (Oct 14, 2012)

Awesome draw board thread! Thanks everyone!


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## Arrow_Slinger (Jul 18, 2005)

Tagged


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## bplayer405 (Jan 7, 2014)

tayb0w said:


> Has anyone built this as shown in the original post with the floor flange on the bow side and are you happy with it? I have all the parts to assemble with the floor flange on the bow side. I am sure it is stronger to assemble per a recent post (drill a hole and mount the flange on the back), but I am not sure it is necessary...


Yes, but I changed it pretty quickly. If you use the board on the floor your bow and some rests sit directly on the flange. I modified mine so the flange is on the opposite side of the board and I spray glued indoor/outdoor carpet on the whole end around the pipe so the bow is protected. I also use a fleece wrap on the pipe.


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## Basstar (Aug 9, 2008)

Rex D said:


> I used this as the basis for my draw board.. I did a couple of things different though. I used a 3/4" paddle bit and drilled an offset hole so the bow wouldn't turn when drawing back and be straight a full draw. I secured the floor flange to the bottom of the 2X6 and secured with wood fasteners. This is much more secure and uses not just the screws to secure the pipe but also the hole in the 2X6. I used a piece of rubber hose and electric tape to keep the pipe from scratching the bow. I then screwed down a metal yard stick to determine draw lengths. After this I cut a piece of carpet. used the same paddle bit to cut a hole in it, slid it down over the pipe and stapled the carpet along the outside to the 2x6.. this makes sure nothing gets scratched.
> 
> I bought a 1,000lb winch with a cable already on it for $21 at harbor freight. I had to cut the 2x6 so the handle would crank.. It's very secure.


Rex D, I just built a draw board for myself and first want to thank you for the suggestion to install the flange on the underside of the board with the post coming up through the board. I took this another step and wanted to return the favor by sharing my idea. 

Like you did I put my flange on the underside of the board but with a twist....literally. I drilled the first part of the hole for the post to go through just over sized enough to allow the top of the flange nipple to set in that recessed area and basically installed the flange upside down as you would look at it from the board side.

Attached are photos of the flange installed and the post above the board.

Thanks so much as I would never have thought of this without your suggestion.

AJ


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## WhiskeyZulu (Mar 8, 2013)

Really good thread. Helped a lot when building mine.


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## kc hay seed (Jul 12, 2007)

i made mine with a wench that had a steel cable and after wanting it to face towards my bags and mounting it horizontal on a piece of strut next to my string jig the winch was lower than the D-loop to fix it i installed an eye bolt higher than the D-loop about 36" from the post.it works just fine and the bows balance well on the pipe. i thought this might help some on here. good luck!!


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## archeryhunterME (Feb 12, 2006)

tagged!


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## ChuckHann (Feb 11, 2013)

Rex D said:


> I used this as the basis for my draw board.. I did a couple of things different though. I used a 3/4" paddle bit and drilled an offset hole so the bow wouldn't turn when drawing back and be straight a full draw. I secured the floor flange to the bottom of the 2X6 and secured with wood fasteners. This is much more secure and uses not just the screws to secure the pipe but also the hole in the 2X6. I used a piece of rubber hose and electric tape to keep the pipe from scratching the bow. I then screwed down a metal yard stick to determine draw lengths. After this I cut a piece of carpet. used the same paddle bit to cut a hole in it, slid it down over the pipe and stapled the carpet along the outside to the 2x6.. this makes sure nothing gets scratched.
> 
> I bought a 1,000lb winch with a cable already on it for $21 at harbor freight. I had to cut the 2x6 so the handle would crank.. It's very secure.


I built one very similar to yours, For $2 more you can get the worm drive winch with the handle on the top, No clearance problems, and you can stop at any point in the draw, Meaning you don't need to wait for the latch to kick in and possibly over draw the stops. I switched out the cable for a 1/8" cable thinking it would be more manageable but finally went with a 500# rated strap from a ratchet strap, It doesn't unspool like the cables do. The only draw back to the worm drive winch is the rate at which it pulls the bow is slower. It does have a 3/4" nut that holds the handle on and I have used a drill and a socket to speed things up. If you do this with the drill I'd recommend some grease on the axles though.


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## ChuckHann (Feb 11, 2013)

ChuckHann said:


> I built one very similar to yours, For $2 more you can get the worm drive winch with the handle on the top, No clearance problems, and you can stop at any point in the draw, Meaning you don't need to wait for the latch to kick in and possibly over draw the stops. I switched out the cable for a 1/8" cable thinking it would be more manageable but finally went with a 500# rated strap from a ratchet strap, It doesn't unspool like the cables do. The only draw back to the worm drive winch is the rate at which it pulls the bow is slower. It does have a 3/4" nut that holds the handle on and I have used a drill and a socket to speed things up. If you do this with the drill I'd recommend some grease on the axles though.


Sorry, I forgot. With the winch handle on the top of the winch you could mount the board on a wall and use it vertical also.


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## gofor (Feb 4, 2013)

Please note that the directions linked to state you measure draw length from the front of the riser. It should say " from 1 3/4" in front of the post" as the post will sit in the deepest part of the grip,

Go


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## Ronon (Aug 19, 2006)

tagged


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