# Bowstring Making Instructional Thread



## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Another setup picture


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

*Step 2-End Loop Servings*

Step 2-End Loop Servings
Serve each of the ends perfectly across from each other. For example measure over 4” from the right post on each side and serve or if you have another way of doing this that’s fine here too. Typically a good serving length for end loops is between 2”-3” depending on your personal preferences. I use 2.5” and make my end loops ¾” which works great for 95% of cams. If you need to up the loop size to 7/8” due to bigger attachment posts on your cams you might want to err about 2 ¾” on the loop servings. Find out what works best for you…that’s the biggest part of string making.


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

End Loop Picture 2


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Step 3-Transition
Now that both end loop servings are on (remove the bungees if you use them to tension the loose ends like I do) it is time to relax the posts and move the bowstring from four posts to two posts. Once the string has been transferred to the two posts line the end loop servings up so that each end is offset 1/8”-1/4” from each other. The only reason they are offset is to provide you with an easy transition when closing the ends.


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Step 4-Color Separation
As you’ll be able to see now to get that pretty twist string with each color separated you’re going to have to do some work to get them apart. At this point each color is intertwined with the other and needs some separation done. There are a number of ways to do this and as long as the end result is the same it shouldn’t make a bit of difference in the end product. First take and put perhaps 10 twists in the string. I twist my strings counterclockwise because that is the direction I serve in. Clockwise or counterclockwise it doesn’t matter. Just keep twist direction and serving directions consistent with one another. I take a scrap piece of string material about a foot long and starting at one end with the material splitting the colors work my way down to the other end and back up. Work it on one color down and the other on the way back up. You will more likely than not have a bit of a rat’s nest at the opposite end that you started at which is completely normal. This won’t hurt a thing. Often times I will see twist strings that have no apparent color separation or a strand here or there that is in with the other color bundle. That is because this step is not done properly or omitted altogether. Note that when you are performing this that the string should be under a slight amount of tension. No need to reef on your jig too hard here as you’ll only be making your job tougher.


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Step 5-Twisting the String/Color Separation
Now that the string essentially only needs end and center servings it’s starting to look like a bowstring. I put the final number of twists I want in my string in at this point. I typically use 1 twist every 1.5” of string length. So on a 60” string the final product will have 40 twists throughout the entire string. Here for example I would twists the string until it had 37 total twists in it. Remember that there were 10 in from before. Keep it a few twists shy because when you serve you are adding additional twists from the tension of your serving jig. It’s not much but enough to make a difference. Attention to detail is the key to making a great string! Once the string has been twisted take your piece of scrap material and run back down through the string as in Step 4 separating your colors to ensure the best string you can. 

Note: On a single color string while separation of colors is not necessary I do recommend doing the same procedure but this time do it down the true center of the string rather than between colors.


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Step 6-Applying the Center Serving
Tension the string to the maximum that your jig allows you. If your jig enables you to get 300+ pounds here that’s great. By subjecting it to that much force you are placing the end and center servings under just as much if not more tension than it will be subjected to on the bow itself. As for prestretching with modern materials there is no real benefit. Once the string has sat on the jig for 30 seconds give it one final check to make sure it’s as tight and begin serving. On mine I’ll usually ratchet the strap one more click.

Apply the center serving. Not much to say here. The only thing I would recommend is that like on all servings I make to run the tail all the way through to the end. Make sure when placing the serving that you are very precise in your placement. A misplacement of even ¼” here can be bad news. Not that it diminishes from actual performance but let’s face it. Bowstrings are just as much aesthetics as they are performance pieces. They are to me at least. I take pride in my work and they must have a certain professional look about them in all aspects.


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Step 7-Applying the End Servings
The first step before any serving or anything else is done is to tie lark’s head knots in the loose ends. There are photos demonstrating how to do just that. First, start by taking the end and making a loop on top of the string, then while holding the loop thread the end of the strand under the string and up through the loop. To complete the knot do just vice versa on the bottom. Take the end and make a loop on the bottom. While holding the loop, take the end of the fiber and thread it back over the top and down through the loop again. Pull the knot tight and make sure it’s up against the end loop serving and that’s that. The photos should be a big help if my explanation is confusing. After all of the loose ends are knotted up I attach my bungee to them and tension them off of the post on the opposite end as pictured. Tension need not be significant. Enough to pull them taut is more than sufficient here. Know you’re ready to put on both end servings. Serve right over the ends themselves. Use your standard serving procedure here and as always serve the same direction that your string is twisted. I start from the middle and work towards the end. Use whatever direction works best for you. Once your serving is complete trim the loose ends off flush with the end of the serving as shown.


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Next Step


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Next


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Next Pic


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Next Step


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Next


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Step 8-Final Check
You’re done with the string now. You will need to add the additional twists to the string and using a tape measure add until you get the twist rate you desire. In my case I twist the string to 1 twist every 1.5”. Again, find what works best for you here. I would caution people from to a much higher twist rate than I have here. I’ve found that this rate performs best for me and gives a nonexistent amount of peep rotation. On the string pictured here I have less than 5 degrees of rotation. 


What I have outlined here is what works for me. Depending on what exactly is being constructed the procedure may change slightly. For example, on a single cam bow I serve the idler serving first and then the center serving while finishing the end servings up last. The thing that I cannot stress enough is that building a great string takes time, practice, and experience. While you may follow the same procedure I do that doesn’t mean that you will experience the same successes I have with this. Change steps that you see fit to suit your construction style. If something works better for you doing it another way then stick with doing it that way. What ever works for you! Lastly, remember the details! That’s what it’s all about!

Good Luck String Makers!
-Brian

PS: Feel free to PM me or post with any questions. I’m sure that I’ve probably left out at least a few details that come automatically to me without thinking twice. I’d be more than happy to answer any questions.


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## ultrasweet (Dec 23, 2002)

You do your center serving before the end servings? I will try this on my next string. Nice job on your post!!


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

*Twists*

I made an error while writing: *I put twists in and serve clockwise. *

Good Shooting!

-Brian


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## DeerForce1 (May 21, 2002)

I like the idea of holding the dead ends of the string with the bungee cords. I usually tied them off to the post & was never really happy with them that way. Thanks for the idea & the post..........................................................DF1


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## KMAC (Mar 5, 2003)

When you hook up the bungees to start is there just enough tension to hold the string? If you are using one color do both ends that you are wraping end on the same end of the string? I'm still just a little confused on how to tie the loose ends of with the larks knot. I hope I'm not to confuseing on what I'm tring to ask. Thanks, for the info. I will be making a copy of this thread for sure.


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

*Lark's Head Knot*

To start with the bungees are set to the same tension that the string material is wrapped on with. This is one of the most, if not *the most* important part of the string construction process. Each color is set at a different end. You could put them both at the same end if you really wanted but that would cause one end serving to be significantly larger in diameter than the other and it may form a tight fit in the cam grooves. By placing them each at opposite ends both end servings are the same diameter. 

As for the Lark's Head Knot these pictures should help you out a bit. My bad, I forgot to post them initially. 

Enjoy,
-Brian


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Here's the second part of the knot


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## KMAC (Mar 5, 2003)

Thanks stringmaker


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## nmaineron (Jan 19, 2003)

Great post Stringmaker! How do you come up with a starting string length? Say my string length is 54" with a twist @ every 1.5" do you have to add a few inches to accomodate the amount of twisting?Did you build the jig?Ron


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## Larebow (Feb 18, 2004)

Like your jig better than mine.You make it?


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Ron,
Starting string length is something that is learned by making many a strings! When someone orders a string or I take it off the bow to measure it I measure the *twisted* length of it. If you worder a 54" string it will be 54" on the nose with twists in it. Naturally with twists in the string it is going to shorten so you have to add on to get the length that you desire. Here's a general rule I use:

For Single cam strings I add on 1.125"
For Dual Cam strings I add on .875"

For typical lengths of each respective string type that will get me right where I want to be! Each string I make is right on the nose. It will be the exact length with 1 twist every 1.5" using those add ons I gave above. Will those work for you? Probably not. But I'd say they're a good starting point. It depends on the jig you use, how much tension you make the string under, how many twists are in the string, etc etc. 

So for example:
If you wanted a 54" string twisted.
I need an overall length of 54.875" (assuming it's a two cam string)
My jig posts are 11" from end to end.
So length-wise I would set my posts 43.875" apart to start with.

43.875"+11"=54.875"

I hope that helps, if nothing else you got a lesson in addition!  

To answer your last question yes I did make the jig myself. That is an old design I made about 5 years ago. I have a new design made up but haven't had a chance to fabricate it (college keeps me busy). Basically, the post are beefed up to 1" diameter (those shown are 3/4"), the armatures are slightly heavier duty, and the posts are removable (they screw in and out) and not welded into the arms like they are on the one you see here.

Good luck!
-Brian


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## nmaineron (Jan 19, 2003)

Brian,thanks for the reply.I'm really interested in learning how to do my own strings,seems like a neat project and I like being able to do for myself. Are you using 1" tubing? I also noticed that you have your posts secured.Do you find it unneccessary to be able to have the post so that you can turn them to be inline?I don't think I have ever seen a jig cept for in the mags,looks pretty simple to build.Great info!Thanks, Ron


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Ron,
I'm not sure where you're asking about in regards to the 1" tubing. The crossbar which contains the jig posts is 1.5" tubing with 3/16" wall. On my new design I've increased that to 2" square solid. As far as rotating the posts I much prefer a solid armature design like I have here. The ratchet strap which you see pictured supplies plenty of tension. On a jig with non rotating armatures the posts are always perpendicular which makes my job much easier. Is it simple to build? Depends on who's building it. The design is not that complex. Fabrication takes a considerable amount of skill to machine all the parts right and keeping things plum when welding is a real treat as people with experience welding I'm sure know. It's something that sure anybody could build one but that's not to say I'd want to use it. In the hands of a competent metal fabricator I'm sure building a jig like such is another day at work. 

Good Luck,
-Brian


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## Bob H in NH (Aug 20, 2002)

I usually set the jig exactly to the length I want, maybe a hair more, but nothing like what you add to the length, wind on the string with the posts in line with the jig (90 deg from your pictures), then when I serve the end loops, I turn the posts 90 deg make the end loop and turn the post back. This stretches the string a bit and now its loose on the posts and I add the twist.

In your pictures, for two colors, one thing I am not sure of is how you join the colors? Say you need a 14 strand string, do you wind on 7 strands, then tie the two colors together and wind the other 7? Or do you do two completely seperate loops one of each color, so that the two colors aren't connected?

--Bob


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## nmaineron (Jan 19, 2003)

Brian,I am metal fab guy so making this would be a lot of fun.Why I ask is because the only other version of a jig I have seen has the posts so that you can have the string inline for initial layout and perpendicular for serving.I have never seen a jig upclose and personal ,so pics are all I have to go by,hence the ???.I was thinking on making something portable with 1 or 1 1/4" square tubing.Ron.


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## KennyO (Feb 5, 2003)

Stringmaker,

This is a wonderful thread thanks for posting it!

I do have a question about the larks head and the ends though. It looks like both of you ends are exiting the endloop serving on the same side of the serving. Is this because it is a two color string?

When I have made strings, I wind my wraps and the ends are tied to opposite posts on the same arm. So when the endloop serving is applied there is an end exiting each side of the endloop (This is for a single color string). Does that matter? Am I doing something wrong? Can I still tie your style of larks head knot for the ends? 

Thanks,
KennyO


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Kenny,
Hopefully this will answer your question:

The pictures might not show this clearly but the loose ends exit on both sides of the end loop servings. This string is black and blue, so the black is on the end shown in the pictures, while the blue ends are at the opposite end of the string. So it appears that each of us do this the same way. Good luck!

-Brian


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## KennyO (Feb 5, 2003)

Stringmaker,

Great that clears it up. 

One more quick question about the knot. Once you have done the step in the first picture you posted of the larks head knot, are you pulling the ends tight (cinching the knot) and then repeating the step in the other direction? So you basically end up with a knot similar to how a string loop is tied on.

P.S. What materials are you using?

Thanks again,
KennyO


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Kenny,
That is correct. It looks just like a cinch knot when it is done. I pull it tight after the first step and second step. The end result should be a knot tight with the end loop serving. 
As far as materials go I've been using 450 Plus and 8125. I've been meaning to give Brownell products a try but between having no demand and I've got so much 450 and 8125 that I just can't justify buying more string material when I already have more than I know what to do with sitting around. My personal favorite is 450 Premium which is no longer available, but I've got a good supply of it!  

Good Shooting!
-Brian


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## BDZ65 (May 20, 2004)

*String Making Questions*

String Maker,

When you say you twist and serve your strings in a clockwise direction, do you mean that when looking down the string, from either end, the end-loop closest to you would be twisted in a clock-wise direction? Also by serving in a clockwise direction do you mean that with the same point of view the serving tool is rotated in a clockwise direction?

How tight do you make your end servings?

I have been making my own strings for several years now and am trying to diagnose a recently identified problem. After adding twists, 15-20 on a 55" string, my end servings tend to take on a cork screw shape, which I have recently attributed to tuning issues. I have not been twisting my strings before applying the end servings, which I believe may be the problem. Also I have been rotating my serving tool opposite the direction in which I twist my strings. I have recently proven that by twisting my strings in the same direction in which the serving tool was rotated my strings stay very nice in the end serving area. Again, I am referencing my directions of serving and twisting from a viewpoint of looking down the string from either end. I have been following the BCY string making CD which the way I interpret it has you twisting the string in a clockwise direction and rotating the serving tool in a counter-clockwise direction. What is your opinion of all this?


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## xxxarcher (Feb 4, 2003)

well I am far from being a pro string maker, but I have been making my own for a bit now and have done some experimenting in making some. I always wind mine clockwise when looking from the end loop, and I twist the string to what I want my finished length to be BEFORE I put on the end servings. 
HOW TIGHT??? well I dont know an exact number but I know I set my serving jig plenty tight, just tight enough that when you are serving along you have to give it a pretty good smack with your finger to get it to go one complete revolution before you can smack it again (anyone who has made string should understand what I mean by that)
It seems to eliminate the seperation of the serving around the cam lobes, not sure if it is the best way to go about doing it, but it has worked for me. I have tried other things in the past with serving the ends and this is what I have found I like the best.
The only thing I have yet to be able to do when serving the ends is make it look "machine like" at the loop end.
Because of where you serve the loops and the transitions from one layer to the next, I always end up having to run a couple over lapped turns over it to make it look decent.
It is not usually bad, a guy standing next to you at the shooting line would probably not notice it, and surely the group watching you in a shoot off would not see it. But if you look closely at it you can see it and that is what makes me screw with it alot. I have made several little 12" strings just to try to find a way to do that that I like the looks of better, but have yet to find anything.
I have tried even working toward the end loop then back toward center, but it just looks too bulky then.
Anyone have a better way to do this???


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## Crusher (Jan 27, 2003)

> Anyone have a better way to do this???


I don't know if this is BETTER, but this is what I do and it seems to make a pretty good looking, closed end loop that is not too bulky. I don't know if I can explain it in words too well, but here goes.

I serve about 1.75" of end loop when the spreaders on my jig are apart. I do not end the loop with a knot...I let the string/stringer hang. The I reset my jig so my post are in-line and continue serving the string around both halves of the string. Continue serving until the desired length of endserving is complete. In other words...I do not serve then endloop serperately from the end serving. It is a continuous serving. When doing this, I let most of the pressure off the string when I put the posts in-line, serve 10 times around both halves of the string, twist string to length, then re-apply pressure to the string to about 250# and continue serving.

Just a side note...I am a novice string maker, but this seems to work for me so far.


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## plottman (Nov 15, 2003)

best thread ever?


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## dutchy (Mar 21, 2004)

*question???*

" Just keep twist direction and serving directions consistent with one another."

I was wondering what you meant by this? I normally serve all my center and end loop servings the same, however I have always been taught to serve "inconsistent" or against the direction of twists. I do this because when you serve consistent to your twists the servings will eventually come loose when you are twisting strings to tune or make any timing adjustments on the bow.

All Iam asking is if you have ever experienced any problems with your servings coming loose (especially center serving)

thanks for the excellent pictures, keep up the good work, looks like you have a very nice string on the works :thumbs_up   :thumbs_up


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## Stanley (Jan 18, 2005)

*Archers helping archers.*

This is what Archery Talk is all about. Thanks for the Great thread Stringmaker.


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## critter_catcher (Jun 26, 2006)

So if I am looking at the pic correctly each end of the string will have two loose ends on it to be tied? and if it were a 12 strand string both loose ends would be the same color on each end and if it were a 14 strand string they would be opposite? Never made my own string but would like to try when I get back from the desert.


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

CC,
In a 12 strand string (or any string where the number of strands is divisible by four) made of two colors it usually works best to have a color at each end. If you're making a 12 strand single color string obviously it's easiest on you to have one bundle where the end it's at is arbitrary. On strings where the number of strands are not divisible by four (say a 14 strand string) the ends for each color will be at opposite corners to one another and you'll have to configure your bungees differently. Same concepts apply otherwise though!

General News:
I'm highly considering the possibility of making a String/Cable making video this fall/winter. I've been approached a few times before about the possibility of doing this. Would anyone be interested in purchasing something like this? I haven't a clue of what the cost to output it would be but I'm certainly not looking to line my pockets here...maybe something like $15-$20 per copy. Not trying to advertise if you have any feedback, comments, or suggestions please PM me otherwise post here. Just trying to figure out if it is or isn't worth the effort. I haven't really been active on the site much this past year.


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## beenfarr (Feb 13, 2006)

Stringmaker said:


> General News:
> I'm highly considering the possibility of making a String/Cable making video this fall/winter. I've been approached a few times before about the possibility of doing this. Would anyone be interested in purchasing something like this? I haven't a clue of what the cost to output it would be but I'm certainly not looking to line my pockets here...maybe something like $15-$20 per copy. Not trying to advertise if you have any feedback, comments, or suggestions please PM me otherwise post here. Just trying to figure out if it is or isn't worth the effort. I haven't really been active on the site much this past year.


I say do, I'd buy a copy, I learned to make strings by watching watching the Apple video, and reading your thread, and others like, but I'd still like to see if there's anymore tricks I could learn.

Ben


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## jva54 (Dec 14, 2005)

I'd buy a copy too.


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## LiteForceHunter (Apr 22, 2003)

count me in for one...


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## LiteForceHunter (Apr 22, 2003)

at the risk of sounding dumb... What do you use the bungies for?


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

LiteForceHunter said:


> at the risk of sounding dumb... What do you use the bungies for?


The bungee cord is used to maintain tension on the strand of bow string material.

Every bowstring starts as a single strand of bowstring material.

You tie off the end to the bungee cord.
Now, you roll out the spool and go around and around
the string jig posts. I use my thumb as a tension device
and I pull out the bowstring material while going around the posts.

When you finish the last turn around all 4 posts,
then you tie off the strand to the bungee cord again.

The bungee cord keeps the tension even.

At this point, most string makers will tension their string jig
to 100 lbs or tension or 200 lbs of tension and allow
the individual strands to equalize in tension.

Some leave the strands on the jig for 30 minutes to equalize.
Others may leave the strands on the jig longer.


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## LiteForceHunter (Apr 22, 2003)

So when you start, before you have even started winding material around posts the Bungee is hooked to what?

When you are finished, do you have one end tied in a loop(the start of the Winding) then the end of the material tied in a loop and attached to the other end of the Bungee?

Does any one have any Pics they can post?


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## LiteForceHunter (Apr 22, 2003)

also how do string makers measure the poundage of tension of the string in the jig?


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## LiteForceHunter (Apr 22, 2003)

i found this thread through a search and started on Page two. I just noticed the pics on page one... nix the Pic request... duh!


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

LiteForceHunter said:


> also how do string makers measure the poundage of tension of the string in the jig?


Pelouze makes a nice digital hanging spring scale (Model 7710).

Coffey also makes a hanging digital spring scale.

They measure inline pull,
so you can mount one end of the scale to the arm assembly
and the other end to a ratchet strap and stretch the arm assembly with
the spring scale in line.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

LiteForceHunter said:


> So when you start, before you have even started winding material around posts the Bungee is hooked to what?
> 
> When you are finished, do you have one end tied in a loop(the start of the Winding) then the end of the material tied in a loop and attached to the other end of the Bungee?
> 
> Does any one have any Pics they can post?


On my homemade string jig,
the "backbone" of the string jig is a piece of metal strut with holes.

I just feed the bungee cord throughone of the holes in
the metal strut.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

LiteForceHunter said:


> When you are finished, do you have one end tied in a loop(the start of the Winding) then the end of the material tied in a loop and attached to the other end of the Bungee?


Start by tieing the end of the bowstring material to the bungee hook.

Now, keep your thumb on the spool of bowstring material.
Start wrapping around all four posts.

Go around and around until you have the number of desired strands.

If you want a 12 strand string,
then that would be 6 complete rounds around all 4 posts.

If you want a 20 strand string,
then that would be 10 complete rounds around all 4 posts.

Pull out say 12-inches of excess past the end of the bungee cord hook.
Cut the spool, while holding onto the excess bow string material.

Loop it around the hook of the bungee cord.

Stretch the bungee cord by pulling on the excess bowstring material.
Knot it around the bungee cord hook such that you still have tension in the bungee cord.

Now, use your stretching device (could be a ratchet strap)
and tension the bow string jig and let it sit a while
in order to get the strands to equalize.


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## critter_catcher (Jun 26, 2006)

I'm in for a copy


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## Rocket Rod (Jul 22, 2004)

*Video*

Stringmaker,
Just came across this enlightening post, did you ever get around to making a video, if so where can I get one?
Thanks,
Rod


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## 12sonly (Jan 6, 2007)

stringmaker count me in for a copy . i have been making strings for about a year . i love bcy material, have you tried the new cable serving material? i has a smaller diameter, so the cam wont cut the serving.


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Just so everyone knows i'm working on getting someone to produce the instructional video. Look for something within a couple months hopefully! 

-Brian


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## 88 PS190 (Sep 26, 2006)

let us know what it runs.


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## huntnutsbro (May 19, 2007)

*count me in.*

i would be up for a vid also. i would also like to see the jig. i can weld good and i have a friend that works at a machine shop that is a wiz on a lathe! *(he finishes rifle barrle for himself and his dads custom rifles!) i really want to learn how to do this. i shoot 5 days a week and makin my own strings would be awsome. lmk when the video comes available!


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## Spotshooter2 (Oct 23, 2003)

Crusher , the way you do it is the same way I do it. Leaving most of the tension off of the string when the posts are inline I make enough wraps around it to hold it in place when I tension the string to 300 lbs. I work with the 3 posts system (Lil Jon) and it works this way for me flawlessly. For my final twisting to get to final length though I dont check them till the next day since under 300 lbs of tension even 452X will elognate. I let it set for 1 day and then check for final dimension and twist if needed while it is under 100 lbs of tension.


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## kc hay seed (Jul 12, 2007)

*string jig*

show a little more of how the ratchet works.you do not have much of it in the photos. thanks


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## Archersteve (Oct 14, 2004)

Ttt


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## critter_catcher (Jun 26, 2006)

any news on the vid?


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## BlackArcher (Mar 24, 2006)

*The Post...*

Where do I find those post for you Jig...I need som post for a jig I designed Need suggestions and locations where I could find post...


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## Progen (Mar 17, 2006)

Stringmaker said:


> Just so everyone knows i'm working on getting someone to produce the instructional video. Look for something within a couple months hopefully!
> 
> -Brian



Is the video out yet? :darkbeer:


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## Perfectionist (Mar 2, 2004)

I would be interested in this video as well. :darkbeer:


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## chukar8 (Jul 14, 2007)

Sweet I would like that, I want one.


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## wagoneer_gal (Feb 25, 2008)

Did you get a chance to make that DVD? If so, count me in.


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## Stringmaker (Nov 10, 2002)

Sorry guys I haven't been on AT much lately...and no video yet. I'm hoping to put one together this summer! Will keep everyone updated. Thanks for your patience. 

-Brian


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## AER (Sep 5, 2005)

Brian, I'd be interested on your video as well.


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## MysticFlight (Feb 8, 2006)

*Please Make a video!!!!!*

I would definately buy a dvd on string making


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## Chance (Jan 9, 2005)

I'd be interested too.


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## Frank2126 (May 16, 2008)

Yeah! I want that also. Don't mind to take video on the jig as detail as you can.


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## OCD (Jan 19, 2008)

Me 2 !!!!!


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## iswandy (Aug 18, 2007)

Ok, I have question here, if I want to make set of string 87-3/4" & cable 33-1/2" with 2 different colors for my SBXT, how much extra length should I allow for string and extra length should I allow for cable?

Hope someone can answer


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## Lerie (Aug 23, 2002)

Pm me your e-mail address and I'll send back a chart and an Excel worksheet that will give you the numbers - Paul


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## iswandy (Aug 18, 2007)

pm sent


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## krisfarm (Jun 29, 2008)

Lerie,
I would also like a copy of your Excel worksheet if possible,as this is only my second post I cannot include my email address but will send a private message if you are willing to share your worksheet.
Thanks Bob


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## gr8brew (Feb 4, 2007)

this is perfect thanks,


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## adrian5800 (Oct 18, 2009)

Great thread!!

Regards

Adrian


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## asa1485 (Jan 16, 2008)

ttt


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## walks with a gi (Oct 1, 2002)

iswandy said:


> Ok, I have question here, if I want to make set of string 87-3/4" & cable 33-1/2" with 2 different colors for my SBXT, how much extra length should I allow for string and extra length should I allow for cable?
> 
> Hope someone can answer


 I add 1/8 of an inch per each 10 inches of finished length for a string or cable. This will give you consistently even looking two color twists when on the bow.

For your string length of 87 3/4" I would 8/8 for the 80" and 1/16" for the 7 3/4 inches for a total of 1 1/16" added. Set your jig for 88 13/16".

For your cable length of 33 1/2" I would add 3/8" for the 30" and (1/4 of 1/8") or 1/32" for the 3 1/2" for a total of 13/32" added. Set your jig for 33 29/32".

I lay up the string material and serve the loop ends then separate the colors on each side of the 4 post jig with a long single loop of string materail to keep then separated. I'll then move the jig so the posts are inline, tie off the string ends, position the loop ends where I want them and then add 6 twists to the string, stretch the jig tight and separate the color bundles with the long loop of string material. I'll then keep adding twists and maybe separate the colors a few more times until I get to my finished lengths while under about 100 pounds of pressure. I'll then apply about 300 pounds of pressure and serve the string ends in the same direction as the string material is twisted and towards the string loop/jig post.


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## asa1485 (Jan 16, 2008)

ttt


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## tfields9 (Mar 8, 2010)

ttt


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## kpcoupe (Aug 6, 2009)

ttt


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## BG_archer (Feb 18, 2005)

Let me know your opinion is it a good idea to replace the serving material with the string material for the track parts only ?


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## tfields9 (Mar 8, 2010)

ttt


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## Koorsboom (Dec 13, 2008)

> Originally Posted by iswandy
> Ok, I have question here, if I want to make set of string 87-3/4" & cable 33-1/2" with 2 different colors for my SBXT, how much extra length should I allow for string and extra length should I allow for cable?
> 
> Hope someone can answer
> ...


Does the above apply in general to get the desired length of the string after it has been twisted?

I presume that the length of the string indicated on the manufacturers charts refers to the finished and twisted string. That should then mean that I would use the above formula to calculate the length of the "raw" untwisted string?

Is there a formula that relates the twist rate (revolutions or twists per inch) to the length that needs to be added to the string to get the desired overall length to be used if one would for some or another reason use another twist rate than you do? (I hope I was able to express myself in a way that you understand what I mean ...)


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## Koorsboom (Dec 13, 2008)

I think I am quite clearon determining the string length, number of twists and how to build the string ... Thanks for a fantastic post.

I now need steps on how to build cables with split ends.

I presume you simply divide the string in two halves (or colours if you are doing two colour strings) at the one end, but how exactly do you do the serving of the ends and how do you deterine the length of each leg?

Or is it easier to do a floating yoke type string and just serve the V part of the yoke tight to the string?


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## ex-wolverine (Dec 31, 2004)

There is a guy over on the string and arrow forum with a play by play on buss cables





Koorsboom said:


> I think I am quite clearon determining the string length, number of twists and how to build the string ... Thanks for a fantastic post.
> 
> I now need steps on how to build cables with split ends.
> 
> ...


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

ex-wolverine said:


> There is a guy over on the string and arrow forum with a play by play on buss cables


http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1356672&referrerid=22477


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## Koorsboom (Dec 13, 2008)

Thanks a million ...


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## Hoyt1945 (Nov 30, 2006)

good thread, i,m bookmarking for later use.


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## hjort jagare (Nov 19, 2008)

ttt


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## mbw (Oct 11, 2010)

Stringmaker said:


> Step 2-End Loop Servings
> Serve each of the ends perfectly across from each other. For example measure over 4” from the right post on each side and serve or if you have another way of doing this that’s fine here too. Typically a good serving length for end loops is between 2”-3” depending on your personal preferences. I use 2.5” and make my end loops ¾” which works great for 95% of cams. If you need to up the loop size to 7/8” due to bigger attachment posts on your cams you might want to err about 2 ¾” on the loop servings. Find out what works best for you…that’s the biggest part of string making.


Hey stringmaker, great thread! Question: Could you use the tag ends off the string material to serve the ends as shown here in this orientation on the jig?


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## Spotshooter2 (Oct 23, 2003)

On mine before I put any twists into the string , I burnish the two different colors which makes each set of colors look like a cord. Then I will put my twists into the string and burnish the whole string again. Then I put on the rest of the servings.


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## gmwilkes (Apr 14, 2010)

im trying to figure out how the end loops are made? if it from the ends attached to the bungee and those ends are served? or are those ends just scrap and the end loops are from the serving he talks about starting at the post and serving 4" from that then cutting where the serving is made? im new to this, and think it would be cool to make my own bowstrings, but i guess i need some more guidance.


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## harden13 (Oct 20, 2006)

Contact Deezlin' on here and get his CD. It will tell you everything you need to know! A very informative CD.

Marc


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## deerhunter81 (Nov 30, 2007)

bump....nice thread!


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## Schpankme (Dec 6, 2010)

Another Great Bowstring Making Instructional Thread.


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## lunkerbuster (Aug 25, 2006)

thanks for the info.


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## bowfreak1970 (Mar 31, 2011)

Looks good I just bought a yellowstone so I can try to make my own.


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## anarchyhunter80 (Dec 11, 2011)

Ok so I may be over analyzing this but everyone seems to be saying in regards to serving twists that you should go in the opposite direction of your string twists. When thinking about how the string twists when you serve you would want to tighten the twists of the string correct? So if all of your serving went in a counter-clockwise rotation because your string is in a clockwise rotation than wouldn't one of the end servings essentially be loosening the string rotations?


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

you want serving to be in same direction that you twist the string, think of it from the end, if you take the end of string and look at it straight down string and you turn it clockwise to but twist in, then when you serve your serving jig will rotate clockwise also, dont try and match the strands in the string (the barberpole effect) up with strand of serving. 

In arrows+string section there are some illustrations to show it, it is hard to visualize sometimes


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

anarchyhunter80 said:


> Ok so I may be over analyzing this but everyone seems to be saying in regards to serving twists that you should go in the opposite direction of your string twists. When thinking about how the string twists when you serve you would want to tighten the twists of the string correct? So if all of your serving went in a counter-clockwise rotation because your string is in a clockwise rotation than wouldn't one of the end servings essentially be loosening the string rotations?


Hello anarchyhunter80:

Serve towards the string jig post.
Spin the serving tool
so that the twists in the bowstring are TIGHTENED
when your serving tool rotates around the bowstring bundle.

This is the easiest way to explain it.


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## anarchyhunter80 (Dec 11, 2011)

So what is a good poundage to twist the strings at?


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## Praeger (Jan 7, 2011)

> So what is a good poundage to twist the strings at?


I've heard some give a number of pounds of serving tension, but I have no idea how to one would measure, let alone maintain that tension without the equivalent of a fishing reel with an accurate payout drag tension. 

If you're asking at what _string _tension to serve, my advise is tension the string/cable to your max, then serve at a tension (tension of the serving spool) that doesn't twist the string more than half a twist. I do drop the string tension to near zero to begin to serve the end loops when I need to bring together the two sides to form the loop. Once I get that loop started (about 1/4") I bring the tension back up to about 350 lbs and serve at that tension for the remainder of the serving section.


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