# Viper1 String Jig



## andyman1970 (Apr 2, 2008)

Gotta give props where due.

Built this today - thank you for the instructions Tony.

Looking forward to building my own Olympic recurve strings.


----------



## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

Looks great! 

I followed the instructions in his book to make a Flemish jig. It hasn't failed me yet (though I've failed it a few times!). Making strings is a lot of fun. The addition of real beeswax to the process is an aromatic icing on the cake (and serves to calm your nerves when you realize your string came up an inch short at brace).

Have fun.


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Andy 

Humm, looks a lot like the one I have.









Thanks buddy,
Glad it helped!

Viper1 out.


----------



## skunklover (Aug 4, 2011)

Is this jig in your book Viper1?
If not, where can I get plans?


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Skunk -

The plans in the book are an older style jig. While it does work, this one is both easier to make and much more robust. 

The plans are in this thread: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1600950 
Click on the picture to enlarge.

Thanks,

Viper1 out.


----------



## skunklover (Aug 4, 2011)

Thanks. I've been looking for a jig.


----------



## andyman1970 (Apr 2, 2008)

Tony's instructions are pretty much dead on but PM me if you need help or have questions.


----------



## julle (Mar 1, 2009)

looks real good en pretty easy to build, don't the posts bend inwards a little? this is easily seen if your first few wraps start to hang down instead of being under tension.


----------



## ryan b. (Sep 1, 2005)

ive made something similiar in the past. if you use a 2x6 for the platform the posts go into (or something even wider..2x8 or even stack some plywood up to desired thickness and width..thats what i did since i had scrap laying around) the post/platform wont have a tendency to "tilt" if you pull the posts really tight. nice jig and instructions! another modification i made was to put a plastic nob/handle instead of a wingnut. before i had the nob i just clamped a set of mini vice grips i had lying around to the wingnut. just easier to tighten and loosen. i understand this is meant to keep things as low cost as possible, just throwin some ideas out there.


----------



## HikerDave (Jan 1, 2011)

skunklover said:


> Thanks. I've been looking for a jig.


I made the Viper Model 1 Jig and don't get very consistent results because the goal posts bend too much. Rather than using our club jig to make strings, I think that I'll give the Viper Model 2 a try. The steel goal posts are a great improvement.

P.S. I'm going to try making a string with reduced string count next. What I'm thinking of is winding 8 strands of blue material and 6 strands of red material onto the jig and serving the string. Once the string is fully made I'll just cut the red strands out of the string. Do you all think that this will work? The string would be for my daughter's 20 pound bow so that I can give her a bit more front of center on her arrows -- I've been noticing that she and her peers with low weight bows all score a lot better in calm winds.


----------



## ryan b. (Sep 1, 2005)

the serving never stays uniform if you do that in my experience (i suppose it depends on what kind of serving and how tight you do it). i would just make a skinny string and then build up the area where she nocks the arrow with thread and super glue. maybe it WOULD work though, with such a light bow..


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

julie -

Anytime you're using wood, there will be some flex, the trick is to know how much tension is enough and not over do it. So yes, there is still some inward flexion. On what Dave called the Viper 1 model, I used oak for the cross sections and goal post dowels. There was flex, but it lasted over 30 years and still works. Never had a problem with loop servings, but I always do the center serving on the bow. 

For the guys who want something that will flex a lot less, you can use rectangular metal tubing, in 2x4" or 2x2" sizes and still use the bolts as the goal posts. The only problem there is that the cost goes up about 3 times. (That was actually the original design, until I priced out the stuff.) Still cheaper than the commercial ones. 

Viper1 out.


----------



## andyman1970 (Apr 2, 2008)

The whole job cost me $20 in materials and about 45 minutes in labor. You will spend order of magnitude more on other manufactured jigs. I'll be attempting my first strings later this week and will advise on outcome.


----------



## DBrewer (Jul 17, 2010)

Andyman/Viper,
Thanks for posting this...I've been wanting to buy/build a jig for some time now. Perfect timing and perfect price. I'm hoping to build this this weekend with a little help from the father-in-law who's coming into town.
Thanks again!


----------



## andyman1970 (Apr 2, 2008)

First attempt at a 14 strand 64" string is complete. Learned TONS and still struggling with some of the the endless looping tie-offs. My 10 year daughter seems to be able to serve better than I - go figure. :tongue:

Used D97 string with Brownell #4 nylon serving and BCY serving jig. Eyeballing the Beiter serving jig and have seen good reviews on this as well - I would hope so for $50!

Will attempt another string tomorrow.


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Andy -

The only thing I've found necessary on the serving jigs is to have consistent spool tension. That can be accomplished by fairly inexpensive jigs with good springs. If you need a hand, give me a shout.

Viper1 out.


----------



## ryan b. (Sep 1, 2005)

the beiter string jig is worth every penny imo if you are going to make a lot of strings. you get the tension you like and it keeps that tension. ive used about every string jig and home made jig out there and the beiter is the best by far.


----------



## andyman1970 (Apr 2, 2008)

I find the BCY jig reasonably well made, and any tension issues I've experienced have been a function of ME. I'm a big fan of Beiter products, just not their price tag 

Third string was the charm. Here are some work product pics.


----------



## andyman1970 (Apr 2, 2008)

Reposting last pic - don't know that truncated


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Andy - 

Ok, not bad.

Couple of things. Unless this is for a longbow, the binding serving is a little short. I generally go about 6" to cover the string groove in the limb. Also, it looks like the loop serving ends end at the same point, leaving a hard "step" down to the main string diameter. I generally stagger the ends to give a more gradual taper. I've even marked the jig, so I know how to offset the second loop serving to give the stagger. 

As I mentioned, I prefer to do the center serving on the bow. It provides adequate tension, and there's no question about how long the serving needs to be.

Viper1 out.


----------



## andyman1970 (Apr 2, 2008)

Tony - thanks for the feedback. It does appear I'm a good 1" short on the binding serving. Will correct that on the next string.

While blurry, the first pic does show the offset with serving taper. I realized the benefit of that on the second serving attempt.

My jig has a LOT of notes and markings. All part of the learning curve.


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Andy -

Very good. Took a closer look. I would still make the stagger a little longer. A sharp step can result in early serving wear. 

After a while, you'll be able to make one in your sleep.

Congrats

Viper1 out.


----------



## DBrewer (Jul 17, 2010)

Got my jig made this weekend. Looking forward to trying it out. Thanks again Andy and Viper.


----------



## andyman1970 (Apr 2, 2008)

A pencil and straightedge will be your best friend for the first few strings.

Each string I've made has gotten easier, and more professional. The "magic" is definitely with consistent spool tension, whether its the initial wrap of the strings on the posts or the serving process. 

Happy to share lessons learned - just PM me as needed.


----------



## julle (Mar 1, 2009)

I just took a closer look at the plans, first of all, if there's ever a presidential candidate that wants the US to move over to the metric system, vote for him! Secondly aren't those 2 long 2x4's a bit to heavy duty? I doubt 2 1x2's would bend, I think the posts are more susceptible to bend, or am I wrong here....?


----------



## andyman1970 (Apr 2, 2008)

julle said:


> I just took a closer look at the plans, first of all, if there's ever a presidential candidate that wants the US to move over to the metric system, vote for him! Secondly aren't those 2 long 2x4's a bit to heavy duty? I doubt 2 1x2's would bend, I think the posts are more susceptible to bend, or am I wrong here....?


Jig is very heavy. The steel posts are tough as nails and I've had little to no flex.


----------



## m013690 (Sep 3, 2011)

julle said:


> I just took a closer look at the plans, first of all, if there's ever a presidential candidate that wants the US to move over to the metric system, vote for him! Secondly aren't those 2 long 2x4's a bit to heavy duty? I doubt 2 1x2's would bend, I think the posts are more susceptible to bend, or am I wrong here....?


I have a homemade jig which used 1x2 for the arms and 5/16" bolts for the posts. The wooden arms will flex a little, but the steel bolts flex noticeably more than the wood. My wooden arms are 15" long, and I suspect if I shortened them 2" to have the posts 11" on center, the wood would flex even less. And 3/8" bolts (or even 1/2" bolts) would flex less. But yes, in my experience, you're right - the bolts are more apt to flex than the wood.

That said, however, one of the drawbacks I have found with my jig is that it's overall too light, so when I'm building a string, I put a couple screws through the feet and secure it to the workbench so it won't move as I'm pulling strings tight. Viper's jig, if it's substantially heavier, might alleviate the need to do that.


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

julie - 

A friend of mine did use 2x2"s, there was more flex; not terrible, but noticeable. The fact that the forces are trying to bend a thicker dimension does help. The 3/8" bolts don't bend (at all), and the only real flex point is the junction between the bolts (uprights) and the cross members. A way of reducing that would be to take a 1 - 1.5" diameter dowel a few inches long, drill a 3/8" hole down the middle, slip the 3/8" bolt through it and glue it to the cross member. While an option, it don't think it's worth doing, unless someone really feels the flex is too much. 

As for the metric system, kinda depends on what you grew up with. I still prefer SAE wrenches...

Also, I find that a single "C" clamp holds it to my work bench nicely.

Lastly regarding the version in my book: After using that model for about 30 years, I did wind up stiffening it by bolting a 2x4" to the base pieces. That, plus the oak dowels and cross members held up well. Just wanted one that was easier to build with even less flex. 

Viper1 out.


----------



## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

yup that's a pretty cool jig and about all you need for recurve strings.
here is a similar one I typed up for the 4H kids.
http://nwspinner.com/docs/Make_a_Bowstring_Jig.pdf


----------



## agillator (Sep 11, 2011)

b0w_bender said:


> yup that's a pretty cool jig and about all you need for recurve strings.
> here is a similar one I typed up for the 4H kids.
> http://nwspinner.com/docs/Make_a_Bowstring_Jig.pdf


Nice design, nicely explained. I expect I'll be making that one with my kids come summer. Thanks.


----------

