# Center shot way off



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Stored, hung how? Can you post a picture? Limbs would have to be warped badly or riser bent. Cam and wheel okay?


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## phopkinsiii (May 17, 2010)

SonnyThomas said:


> Stored, hung how? Can you post a picture? Limbs would have to be warped badly or riser bent. Cam and wheel okay?


It was in a padded bow case indoors. The limbs and riser look ok but ill take some pics tomorrow and send them.
Thanks


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## bshuntersbd (Feb 25, 2007)

Set center of arrow at 13/16 from riser and you should.


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## phopkinsiii (May 17, 2010)

bshuntersbd said:


> Set center of arrow at 13/16 from riser and you should.


Thanks. I found that spec on the Mathews forum and the rest was already there. 
What I'm having a problem with is the left right adjustment. 
With the arrow dead center over the Berger hole and exactly perpendicular with the string by laser center shot tool, the rest is as far to the right as it can go. I still have a left hand tear with the cam lean dead on at full draw (1/8" at the nock point fully relaxed). I can adjust some, not all, of the left hand tear out with yoke tuning, but I end up with a wicked cam lean that just doesn't look safe. The string comes off the idler wheel at such an angle that the serving probably won't last 100 shots.
The arrow rest is the NAP Apache (not carbon). I'm beginning to wonder if this is the best rest for the Mathews DXT.?
Is anybody else using this rest with the DXT, and do you have the same problem.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

The NAP Apache is one of the finest drop rests on the market. So...
Straighten the top wheel. Forget the dang yoke tuning. Just me, yoke tuning might help, but I don't yoke tune and I'm not going to start.
Now, eye ball center shot. Align bow string to groove of top wheel and move rest so arrow aligns with the aligned bowstring/groove of wheel. Shoot a few shots and check. Re-align if needs be or you think it needs it. Shoot for group, not point of impact. Group good, move sights for wanted point of impact. 
All good, fine, leave it alone.


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## phopkinsiii (May 17, 2010)

I love the rest. Performance isn't the issue. I've done all you suggest and there is still a left paper tear with the bow at spec and the rest as far to the right as it will go. I hate to give up the rest, but I'm wondering if a model with more rightward adjustment might solve my problem.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

*Center shot way offEdit Post.*

??? Check to see if there isn't other holes. Mine is at the shop and I thought you could the windage block or at least I can do it with my Limb Driver.


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## phopkinsiii (May 17, 2010)

That's a good thought, but no there is only one mounting hole on the DXT for the rest.


SonnyThomas said:


> ??? Check to see if there isn't other holes. Mine is at the shop and I thought you could the windage block or at least I can do it with my Limb Driver.


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## 48archer (Mar 19, 2009)

The lazer center shot CAN NOT be used on a Mathews bow. With a fixed rest start your center shot at 13/16, with most drop aways start at 11/16. Idler lean should be set at full draw with the string running straight with the idler wheel.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

phopkinsiii said:


> That's a good thought, but no there is only one mounting hole on the DXT for the rest.


Talking about the windage block of the rest. It does not appear to be able moved as others. Never had the problem so never really paid attention.


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## wrevans (Dec 13, 2012)

It's not the rest. It's the setup. Start from scratch. First make sure your arrows are not too weak (too stiff is most likely okay). Then,

1) Make sure ATA, is adjusted properly, and make sure that the cam is rotated properly (both at your draw weight)
2) Adjust the idle wheel lean *at rest*....place a carbon arrow along the wheel and it should run parallel to your string. The string shouldn't be coming off at an angle that will ruin it in 200 shots. As long as your bushings are good you shouldn't have to worry about the lean at full draw.
3) Set loop (nocking point) 1/8" over the berger button hole.
4) Set Center Shot of rest so center of arrow is at 13/16
5) Now go back to paper and make very small adjustments to the nocking position first (up / down tears), then move the rest. (Make sure you don't have vane/fletching contact)
6) Now use Nut's & Bolts modified french tuning.


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## phopkinsiii (May 17, 2010)

wrevans said:


> It's not the rest. It's the setup. Start from scratch. First make sure your arrows are not too weak (too stiff is most likely okay). Then,
> 
> 1) Make sure ATA, is adjusted properly, and make sure that the cam is rotated properly (both at your draw weight)
> 2) Adjust the idle wheel lean *at rest*....place a carbon arrow along the wheel and it should run parallel to your string. The string shouldn't be coming off at an angle that will ruin it in 200 shots. As long as your bushings are good you shouldn't have to worry about the lean at full draw.
> ...


Steps 1-3 are done. No cam lean at full draw on a draw board.
I thought the 13/16 measurement referred to the fore-aft position of the rest. When you say the "center of the arrow at 13/16", how do you measure that?

Going to do some additional paper tuning today, then will try the French tuning.
Thanks.


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## wrevans (Dec 13, 2012)

phopkinsiii said:


> Steps 1-3 are done. No cam lean at full draw on a draw board.
> I thought the 13/16 measurement referred to the fore-aft position of the rest. When you say the "center of the arrow at 13/16", how do you measure that?
> 
> Going to do some additional paper tuning today, then will try the French tuning.
> Thanks.


You stated earlier that "* I can adjust some, not all, of the left hand tear out with yoke tuning, but I end up with a wicked cam lean that just doesn't look safe. The string comes off the idler wheel at such an angle that the serving probably won't last 100 shots.*. Did you undo the "wicked cam lean"? If not, then none of the first 3 are done, because you will need to start over because of the yolk tuning.

To measure center shot measure from the shelf side of the riser to the center of the arrow while holding the rest fully extended. In other words, there should be 13/16 gap between the riser and the center of the arrow. With a fall away rest, you will likely have to move the rest in just a tad, but start at 13/16.

When you get to paper tuning, a slight up tear is not a big deal, and is preferred for certain types of rests.


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## wrevans (Dec 13, 2012)

phopkinsiii said:


> Steps 1-3 are done. No cam lean *at full draw* on a draw board.


You keep saying cam lean, and that shouldn't be a problem unless the bearing is bad in the cam. I am referring to the "Idle Wheel." Some people say to check the idle wheel lean at full draw.....while others say to check it at rest. I prefer to adjust this at rest. If bushings and bearings are in good condition, then there shouldn't be a big change in the lean at draw. It just makes more sense to me that it is more important that it be aligned at the time the arrow nock separates from the string at the shot......not at full draw.


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## 48archer (Mar 19, 2009)

wrevans said:


> You keep saying cam lean, and that shouldn't be a problem unless the bearing is bad in the cam. I am referring to the "Idle Wheel." Some people say to check the idle wheel lean at full draw.....while others say to check it at rest. I prefer to adjust this at rest. If bushings and bearings are in good condition, then there shouldn't be a big change in the lean at draw. It just makes more sense to me that it is more important that it be aligned at the time the arrow nock separates from the string at the shot......not at full draw.


It might make sense but i will tell you if you set the idler lean straight at rest your bow will never tune.


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## wrevans (Dec 13, 2012)

48archer said:


> It might make sense but i will tell you if you set the idler lean straight at rest your bow will never tune.


Not true! I've been shooting Mathews Single Cam bows since the original Solocam came out....about 20-years. The string is going to have the same left-right movement through the draw/shot cycle regardless of whether you adjust the lean at rest or at full draw.....it's just a product of the cable guard system. All that can be done is to choose where you want this travel to occur.....early or late.

If the wheel is set to be inline with the string at rest, then there will be a *slight *left lean at full draw. Upon release the string will travel slightly left to right for the first few inches and then will travel on a straighter path for the remainder of its travel until the time that the arrow separates from the string. This puts the bow (limbs, cam/wheel, etc) all along the center-line as the forward forces all come to an abrupt stop, which reduces any potential sideways torque created by the bow.

If the wheel is set to be inline with the string at full draw, then there will be a slight right lean at rest. Upon release, the string will again travel slightly left for the first few inches and then will travel out of line with the cam/wheel for the remainder of its travel. This requires center shot to be moved in further to the shelf and you will end up closer to 11/16 than 13/16. It also causes the forces to come to a stop in a sideways motion, causing the bow to torque itself slightly.

Either method can be paper tuned and to shoot good groups. But tuning the lean out at rest will create a much smoother arrow release. Try shooting the bow with no stabilizer both ways and you will feel the torque....my method will create a bow that jumps slightly forward, while the full draw method will create a bow that torques more as it jumps forward.


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## 48archer (Mar 19, 2009)

The last DXT i saw had a roller guard system on it not a cable guard.


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## wrevans (Dec 13, 2012)

48archer said:


> The last DXT i saw had a roller guard system on it not a cable guard.



Yes it's a roller guard, but still a cable guard. Both systems introduce limb torque into the draw cycle. 

Either method of adjusting the idle wheel lean will work.....I just prefer to do it at rest. The important thing is that the bushings and bearings are in good condition in order to minimize the lateral travel of the wheel and cam. 

The OP had mentioned yoke tuning, which in my opinion is a no-no on this particular bow...at least until the paper tuning, and french and/or walk-back tuning are done. In fact, with french tuning I don't think there is any benefit to yoke tuning. A half twist here or there in the yokes may make changes in the group size, but with a consistent left tear he is far from that point. So I listed the basic tuning steps to get past the current issue.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

48archer said:


> It might make sense but i will tell you if you set the idler lean straight at rest your bow will never tune.


BS! I've set up more bows than I can count. Cam lean is cam lean and as long as the bow is mechanically sound the bow will tune. I've had bows in that looked like death warmed over and they shot great out to 80 yards.....


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## phopkinsiii (May 17, 2010)

WRevans,
Yes I adjusted the idler wheel back to where there is no lean at full draw. I had been using the term cam lean incorrectly. In my defense, most of the writings I've seen use that terminology.
I was also measuring the 13/16 wrong. I'll go back and recheck that, but isn't it just as good, if not better, to use the EZ-shot laser to center the arrow perpendicular to the string?
I went back and paper tuned this morning and with the bow set up per the specs I found on the Mathews forum (no idler lean at full draw, the arrow centered as above, and the nock point 1/8" above level), the vertical tear was about 1/4 inch nock low and there is still that pesky 1/2 inch left tear. I moved the nock point up 2 mm and the vertical is now near perfect. The left tear is unchanged. The rest is still as far to the right as possible.
Next I'm going to try the modified French tuning to see if that left tear is really a problem.


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## phopkinsiii (May 17, 2010)

48archer said:


> The last DXT i saw had a roller guard system on it not a cable guard.


Mine is a 2008 and has a roller guard.


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## k9pe (Apr 3, 2006)

Hi there, 
Just read your thread and I might interject what I found with my Martin MOAB that would not paper tune, even after a trip to the factory and back.
Changed the new string and cable that was sent to me while the bow was at the factory where they had replaced the idler wheel, axles and bearings,
along with new cam, and string and cable!! Changing the string did NOT help, even though I had twisted it up a little bit more than the one I had
taken off. Now this all started because I could not get this bow to "bullet hole" a bare shaft. Have been in archery since 1951, and have tuned my recurve 
bows to shoot bare shaft 20 yards into the bullseye, and so this was becoming a hair pulling situation. Finally decided I would try something else, and after mapping my string as to where I wanted servings put on the string, to counter wear areas, I contacted a string maker here in Wisconsin and ordered a set from him. Upon receiving them and putting them on, setting tha ATA and the fistmele setting of the string, I only had to make three minor adjustments of the rest and I had bare shaft bullet hole at ten yards in my basement, in the bullseye at 29 yard as the archery club. Just my 2 cents worth of things to try. And yes I have owned a Mathews, but after six years with it decided to try something else and that is what I found!. 

Good luck with your trials and tribulations..

K9PE


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## phopkinsiii (May 17, 2010)

k9pe said:


> Hi there,
> Just read your thread and I might interject what I found with my Martin MOAB that would not paper tune, even after a trip to the factory and back.
> Changed the new string and cable that was sent to me while the bow was at the factory where they had replaced the idler wheel, axles and bearings,
> along with new cam, and string and cable!! Changing the string did NOT help, even though I had twisted it up a little bit more than the one I had
> ...


K9
I'll try that if/when I get a new string for this bow. The string that's on there is in new condition. I don't shoot this bow much, I mostly shoot my Hoyt. I pull the DXT out for turkey season because the shorter length is more comfortable in the blind.
If all else fails maybe ill try my hand at replacing the servings.
Thanks


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## 48archer (Mar 19, 2009)

phopkinsiii said:


> WRevans,
> Yes I adjusted the idler wheel back to where there is no lean at full draw. I had been using the term cam lean incorrectly. In my defense, most of the writings I've seen use that terminology.
> I was also measuring the 13/16 wrong. I'll go back and recheck that, but isn't it just as good, if not better, to use the EZ-shot laser to center the arrow perpendicular to the string?
> I went back and paper tuned this morning and with the bow set up per the specs I found on the Mathews forum (no idler lean at full draw, the arrow centered as above, and the nock point 1/8" above level), the vertical tear was about 1/4 inch nock low and there is still that pesky 1/2 inch left tear. I moved the nock point up 2 mm and the vertical is now near perfect. The left tear is unchanged. The rest is still as far to the right as possible.
> ...


Please do me a favor and call Mathews and ask them what they think of the EZ- shot lazer, they will tell you it will not work on a Mathews single cam bow. I am not trying to be a smart a** here but i know for a fact it will not work. Try doing what i said above and see what happens. Unless you have a bad bearing, a twisted limb, axle holes that were not drilled straight, a cam out of rotation or a bent riser what i mentioned earlier will work.


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## k9pe (Apr 3, 2006)

If you check my thread, I was asked to "map" my string where I wanted the new string to have servings to reduce wear , like over the idler wheel, in the area of the 
cable gards, (no matter if the are pulleys or a slide on a bar) the travel through the cam, and so forth! As I had a spare string I stretched it full length, and marked on the string where I wanted the servings put, then measured from one end designating that as the start end, and as each area was mapped out it designated for what the serving would cover for, and added to the starting end, so that when you're done it will be the total length of the string!
I would like to repeat, that the string I had put on when it wouldn't perform when I got it back from the factory, was a "brand new in the package" string from Martin!
Even thought it may look new it may not be the same length it was when you put it away, and temperature or moisture might have allowed it to stretch or contract from
factory specs. 
Most string manufacturers will ask for the make and model of the bow your looking for a string for and will have the measurements needed for a plain string, but if you want
a serving to protect the string where it rides over the idler wheel groove or the cable guard or the string stop, or whatever, then you MUST map out your sting as to where you would like the "extra servings"..
I practice in my basement, and have 1" stick on paper bullseyes, set the sight for 10 yards and use the old saying, "aim small, miss small" 
I took my buck this year from my Double Bull Dark Horse at 27 paces and got lucky with a spine shot, so didn't have to blood trail. This was done 28 days before my 88th birthday!! Have fun, shoot straight!!!!!

K9PE my amateur radio callsign


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## wrevans (Dec 13, 2012)

phopkinsiii said:


> WRevans,
> Yes I adjusted the idler wheel back to where there is no lean at full draw. I had been using the term cam lean incorrectly. In my defense, most of the writings I've seen use that terminology.
> I was also measuring the 13/16 wrong. I'll go back and recheck that, but isn't it just as good, if not better, to use the EZ-shot laser to center the arrow perpendicular to the string?
> I went back and paper tuned this morning and with the bow set up per the specs I found on the Mathews forum (no idler lean at full draw, the arrow centered as above, and the nock point 1/8" above level), the vertical tear was about 1/4 inch nock low and there is still that pesky 1/2 inch left tear. I moved the nock point up 2 mm and the vertical is now near perfect. The left tear is unchanged. The rest is still as far to the right as possible.
> Next I'm going to try the modified French tuning to see if that left tear is really a problem.



No worries on the terminology...just wanted to make sure we were talking about the same thing. No, the laser will not work correctly....it's better to use the 13/16" as a beginning point. 

As far as your rest adjustment, the NAP Apache normally comes with a shim plate that can be mounted between the rest and the riser. This shifts the rest further to right for bows that require more adjustment. Is the shim there? If not, you may need to get one or use something to shim the rest out to the right a bit. 

If you now have the just a small (1/2") left tear. Then you can try a couple of things:

1) Make sure you have no vane/fletching contact.....shoot different arrows to see if you get the same tear.
2) Make sure you aren't underspined. Either reduce the weight a couple of pounds or try a lighter tip. A left tear often indicates a weak spine.
3) Make sure you aren't torquing the bow with your bow hand.


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## phopkinsiii (May 17, 2010)

48archer said:


> Please do me a favor and call Mathews and ask them what they think of the EZ- shot lazer, they will tell you it will not work on a Mathews single cam bow. I am not trying to be a smart a** here but i know for a fact it will not work. Try doing what i said above and see what happens. Unless you have a bad bearing, a twisted limb, axle holes that were not drilled straight, a cam out of rotation or a bent riser what i mentioned earlier will work.


I'm not trying to be smart either. Actually, I'm pretty new to the bow tuning thing, so all the info is appreciated. One question: is it the shape of the riser that makes the EZ Shot not work on the DXT? 
I wish that the EZ Shot folks had let me know about the incompatibility before I spent the bucks.


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## wrevans (Dec 13, 2012)

phopkinsiii said:


> I'm not trying to be smart either. Actually, I'm pretty new to the bow tuning thing, so all the info is appreciated. One question: is it the shape of the riser that makes the EZ Shot not work on the DXT?
> I wish that the EZ Shot folks had let me know about the incompatibility before I spent the bucks.


It's probably because the DXT riser is thinner. Does your rest have the shim? Did it come with one? If not, give NAP a call and see if they can send one, or make one.

What is the center shot measurement (from the riser at berger hole to the center of arrow) now that the rest is moved as far right as you can move it?


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## phopkinsiii (May 17, 2010)

I am using the shim that came with the rest. It moves the base of the rest about 1/8 inch to the right in relation to the inside of the riser.
I'm going to measure the center shot and adjust it to the nominal distance.
Does anybody know if its the 13/16 or the 11/16 for the Apache.



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## 48archer (Mar 19, 2009)

The reason a lazer can not be used is because of the way the bow was designed and what happens during the draw cycle. The roller guard system on a DXT causes torque as its being drawn, the riser twists a small amount as its being drawn, that is why with some drop aways the center shot has to be adjusted toward the riser more than with a fixed rest, a lot of it depends how long the launcher is steering the arrow until it falls away, as the arrow clears the rest with a drop away the small amount of twist in the riser is still there. With a fixed rest the riser has time to recover and the arrow is still being steered with the rest. Im not sure what rest you are using but i know with a fixed rest 13/16 is a good starting place for center shot and 11/16 is a good place to start with a fall away rest. You mentioned left tears thru paper, you are either torquing the bow, the arrow spine is too week or center shot is not rite. If all these things are ok with your set up and the left tear is still there try adding a half twist on the left leg of your cable yoke until the left tear goes away.


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## wrevans (Dec 13, 2012)

phopkinsiii said:


> I am using the shim that came with the rest. It moves the base of the rest about 1/8 inch to the right in relation to the inside of the riser.
> I'm going to measure the center shot and adjust it to the nominal distance.
> Does anybody know if its the 13/16 or the 11/16 for the Apache.


Why not just split the difference and start at 3/4". When you get a bullet hole or close to one, I like to use the modified french tune that nuts & bolts has listed. It works extremely well to fine tune the rest for grouping.


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## phopkinsiii (May 17, 2010)

wrevans said:


> Why not just split the difference and start at 3/4". When you get a bullet hole or close to one, I like to use the modified french tune that nuts & bolts has listed. It works extremely well to fine tune the rest for grouping.


As a matter of fact that's exactly what I did. I adjusted the rest so that the arrow center was 8/32" from the riser at the Berger hole. Then I went and paper tuned, the results are in the photo below. With the arrow at 3/4", there was about a 3/8" left tear. It's one of the shots on the top row that I didn't mark. I then moved the rest back and forth to see which correction would trend towards a better tear. The best was with the rest all the way to the right. At that setting the arrow center is 1/2" away from the riser.
To confirm this, I moved the rest back out to 3/4" and then shot 2 shots each with the rest progressively moved 1/8" closer to the riser. The numbers on the paper are the index markings on the Apache rest, and are 1/8" apart.
There's some distortion from the wide angle lens, but the 6.0 setting (8/16" arrow center to riser) is very close to a perfect bullet hole.
Should it still bother me that the paper tune is so far off the specified setting of 11-13/16" or that the rest is at the rightmost extent of its adjustment range? Does it suggest something wrong with my bow or my form that should be corrected?
I'm thinking that I should go out and french tune and bare-shaft tune, and if I get good results, I should just shut up and not worry about it. Any problem with my groups from then on are because of form errors.
Thanks for all the great feedback.


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## threetoe (May 13, 2011)

SonnyThomas said:


> BS! I've set up more bows than I can count. Cam lean is cam lean and as long as the bow is mechanically sound the bow will tune. I've had bows in that looked like death warmed over and they shot great out to 80 yards.....


Just to add to what Sonny says here.....

What about the early Bowtech Speed bows? They have NO YOKE and when at full draw lean like mad. Mine shoots perfect holes with or without veins.

How to you account for that?

LOL


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## Van Handle (Jan 30, 2005)

A very wise bow mechanic once told me, "Set the arrow in the center of the bow and go on to more important things". Here is how to center the arrow in the bow.
*Pro Tune system*. Oh by the way it does a bunch of other cool stuff in a snap. We used to make a laser center tool because that was all the rage. My opinion is they make great pet toys.

http://vanhandle.com/PROTUNE.html


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## 48archer (Mar 19, 2009)

threetoe said:


> Just to add to what Sonny says here.....
> 
> What about the early Bowtech Speed bows? They have NO YOKE and when at full draw lean like mad. Mine shoots perfect holes with or without veins.
> 
> ...


Correct me if im wrong but i thought we were talking about a Mathews DXT. I was telling the op where to set the idler lean on a Mathews not a Bowtech. You can LOL all you want but i know what works and what doesnt on a Mathews.


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## phopkinsiii (May 17, 2010)

Van Handle said:


> A very wise bow mechanic once told me, "Set the arrow in the center of the bow and go on to more important things". Here is how to center the arrow in the bow.
> *Pro Tune system*. Oh by the way it does a bunch of other cool stuff in a snap. We used to make a laser center tool because that was all the rage. My opinion is they make great pet toys.
> 
> http://vanhandle.com/PROTUNE.html


Already own one 'Bro! And it is a great tool. Only problem I've had is that the DXT IS short and the plumb bob that hangs off the arrow hits the bottom riser before the pointed bolt that you put in the stabilizer hole. Maybe I'm using it wrong?
"Pet toy" LOL. I'll try it on the cat.


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## 4hibux (May 3, 2008)

I shoot a mathews monster mr6...I did the same and had the same results w using a laser to centershot...IT DOES NOT WORK...I redid everything...set it up at 11/16 and I have perfect holes now and my rest is well away from my riser...most likely u have went to far past center shot and it can still give you a pretty good lookin hole but it isnt true center shot..take it from someone who experienced the same first hand...DONT USE A LASER TO CENTER SHOT


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## phopkinsiii (May 17, 2010)

4hibux said:


> I shoot a mathews monster mr6...I did the same and had the same results w using a laser to centershot...IT DOES NOT WORK...I redid everything...set it up at 11/16 and I have perfect holes now and my rest is well away from my riser...most likely u have went to far past center shot and it can still give you a pretty good lookin hole but it isnt true center shot..take it from someone who experienced the same first hand...DONT USE A LASER TO CENTER SHOT


I went out and did the modified French tuning yesterday and I've got center shot dead on. The rest is now 8/16 inches from the riser at the Berger hole. I came home and checked the paper tuning again and, FINALLY, it's a perfect bullet hole. 
Maybe it's just my bow, or it's the combination of the DXT with the Apache rest, but this bow tunes with the rest as far to the right as it will go before it comes up against the roller guard. Or maybe it's my form. I wish one of the local shops had a Hooter shooter so I could see how a machine would work with this set up.
I'm going to put the laser back on and see how close it is, but I'm pretty sure that it would actually put the arrow closer to the nominal 11/16" from the riser.
Now the real test is whether I can go out and shoot better groups.


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## axelsmith1 (Apr 5, 2011)

I am working thru what sounds like the same issues as you, I feel your pain. I have a drenlin LD with a QAD drop away, that started out shooting like a dream. Then the lower limb split where it Y's out for the cam. I had the limbs replaced and ever since I end up jammed up against the riser, just a hair shy of where I need to be for tuning. I have replaced strings, changed rests, played with lean and specs and tried different shafts (spines and manufactures) and it just aint like it used to be. The other thing I've noticed is the bow doesn't shoot as smooth as original. If it wasn't for the way it shot before the limb change I would have scraped it a year ago. After reading through the thread I am wondering about bearings.


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## phopkinsiii (May 17, 2010)

Axelsmith1,
I bought my DXT used and it's always been like this. The bow only tunes with the Apache rest as far to the right as it will go, where it touches the roller guard arm. At this point, I'm not too worried about it as I'm shooting bullet holes through paper and the French tuning went very well (split the string at 10 feet and tight group centered on the string at 10 yards). I'm going to do some bare shaft tuning, but now my form is by far the limiting factor.
BTW, I had the guy at my local Mathews shop check the limbs and axles and they are all in good shape.


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