# Need picture of proper anchor position



## ranchdog (Dec 4, 2004)

I got a new bow and fixed my old bow's rest as it was setting too high above the berger hole. So when I did this I ran out of sight adjustment on my sight as I had it all the way in it's lowest position.

So I asked the proshop to adjust my peep and they said the reason I ran out of adjustment was because I had my peep set too low because I was anchoring too high. When I got my new bow from another shop they said yes you need to have the string just touching the end of your nose. They set my peep and now I am struggling getting that new achor spot

So I was wondering if someone has a picture of a proper anchor spot using a standard release (Cobra Bravo is what I use). I used to have the string coming pretty far back against my nose. Now this touching the tip of my nose has my shooting all over the place. I know I will adapt, I just want to make this time I am doing it correctly.

Thanks, Ranchdog


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## realmfg (Jun 4, 2005)

This is a great question and I wonder myself. How do you know where to put your peep and kisser. Right now I am a little off so I could move kisser but I am not sure if thats the right way to do it.


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## YankeeRebel (Dec 30, 2005)

Click on the link. It should give an idea.:thumbs_up 

http://www.huntersfriend.com/drawlength.htm


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## mttc08 (Feb 21, 2005)

thanks for the link...very useful info on there


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## mtmedic (Sep 20, 2004)

*Neat site*

that is a cool site. Thanks for putting that out there!!:beer:


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## ranchdog (Dec 4, 2004)

Man this site just continues to rock! Man!!

I mean how else can you get the perfect answer and more to your question in just a few mintues! :cocktail: 

Sweet, Thanks YankeeRebel.......


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## TANC (Mar 14, 2005)

*Excellent Link !*



YankeeRebel said:


> Click on the link. It should give an idea.:thumbs_up
> 
> http://www.huntersfriend.com/drawlength.htm


As NUTS & BOLTS often tells everyone about on here, note that the ideal drawlength is with the arrow nock directly under the eye. Then establish your ideal anchor points from there by lengthening or shortening your string loop.

Excellent advice from him !!!

TANC


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## A Mess (May 21, 2005)

Well, I hate to be a wet blanket here, but I do not agree with the pictures posted on the link. Here's why.

First off, there is more to establishing a correct draw length than just where the string meets your face. True, this is one of the very important things, but it does not end there. The string angle changes from bow to bow depending on draw length and axle to axle length. I too use the nock below the eye as one reference point, but it is only one, and it is not set in stone. Not one single picture in the link shows a correct anchor point. The very top first picture you see shows a bow that is probably too short for this archer, and his release is waaaay too long. The trouble is the picture does not show enough of the archer. I need to see his posture as well. He appears to be leaning back in the picture, but I can't tell, because the picture is too small. 

I look at three or four main things when determining correct draw length and anchor. First and most important in my opinion, is posture. You should be standing straight up, not leaning back or craning your neck forward or back. Your shoulders should be level. Your drawing forearm should be parrallel with the arrow, not angling up or down. Neither should it be pointing away from or behind you at an angle. It needs to be in line with the arrow. Your hand should contact your face or head in an easy to reach and repeatable position. Then we worry about whether or not the string touches your nose.

I'm not good enough with the computer to know how to post a link, but if you do a search for "how's my form?" or "critique my form", you will see pictures of good and bad form, with explanations as to why they're good or bad.


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## YankeeRebel (Dec 30, 2005)

Ones drawlength for one archer may differ for another archers preference. My drawlength preference,(with no leaning forward or backward),may not suite a archer where they may want to lean into the string slightly. Or another archer that likes to slightly lean back off the string. Whats critical is establishing anchor point at whatever drawlength that you feel comforatble with. The more anchor points the better. By going to your local Bowshop, the shop would more than happy measure your drawlength for you. Most people do pick too long of a drawlength. I personally would rather lean into the string than to have to lean back off the string. Once you get the drawlength you feel comfortable with then you can practice coming to full draw and establishing your anchor points. To shoot consistantly you need to anchor the exact same way on every shot. 

To position my peep I come to full draw with my eyes closed.Once I'm settled into my anchor points I open my eyes. I then have someone to raise or lower it to my desired point. And the same with the kisser button. Come to full draw with eyes closed and settle into your anchor points and have someone mark the area where the string meets the corner of your mouth. I have 4 anchor points. 1) string on tip of my nose.2) First knuckle on release hand below right ear into my jawbone 3) fletching barely touching bottom of my chin 4) Kisser button in corner of mouth/or string touching corner of my mouth. 

Not everyone is gonna have the same preferences here but we all will have the same goal in mind. Establishing a comfortable drawlength and choosing your anchor points. And as far as form, have someone videotape you shooting and then you can critique yourself. Or you can have someone,who you value their bow shooting opinion, give you some advise and their opinions of your shooting form.:thumbs_up


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## tjb357452 (Jan 24, 2003)

Better keep one thing in mind. There's no right or wrong anchor point. If you can repeat it the same way 100 times, then you're on to something. You don't have to do it right. You do have to do it exactly the same shot after shot. :beer:


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## ranchdog (Dec 4, 2004)

Ok, I had the wife take a few photos of my anchor position.

one is my Switchback and it is a 27.5 draw Length.
one is my Hoyt UltraMag 28 draw Length.

I measured my wing span and it is 67 inches from tip to tip of my middle fingers. I am 5 ft 8" tall.

I do flex my left bow arm, I am a right handed shooter.

It looks like my Switchback is pretty good but my Hoyt seems like maybe the draw length is too long on it or both maybe. Both bow were setup for me at a proshop and that is what they fitted me with.

Thanks for any feedback, Ranchdog


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## AKDoug (Aug 27, 2003)

This is a much posted picture of Randy Ulmer. Nice form from a retired Pro.










Notice how much lower he is than you.


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## Bellows1 (Oct 19, 2003)

I'd say they are both too long. You should end up with the string on or neer the tip of your nose and your release hand knuckle under your earlobe at the top of your jawbone. Post up some of you with the bow shooting. Try to be aiming level to the ground, not down at a target.


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## ranchdog (Dec 4, 2004)

I think your right Bellows1, 

They might both be too long. But since I was new at this I depended on the shop and the pros to set me up right. I might however be bending my elbow too much. I never have a string slap my arm since they told me bend slightly to help with torque. I will try as you suggested.

Thanks AKDoug for the picture, that looks like great form. At least I know what it looks like now.

Also, how are you guys getting you pictures in your post. I attach mine. If I click the insert image icon the you have to have a url? no?



Thanks Ranchdog


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## Bellows1 (Oct 19, 2003)

This one may help you out also. (Thanks go out to Nuts& Bolts) 

You can straighten your elbow, Just don't lock it. this picture illustrate how your arm should be in relation to the bow. Bow arm parallel to the arrow, shoulder level with the arrow shelf, spine square to the arrow. Release arm parallel to the arrow.

When inserting an image, it must be hosted elsewhere. Like these ones.

Once you upload like you did, you can click on that link before you post a reply and insert that link for your "image" Follow that?  







.


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## ArchersParadox (May 12, 2005)

> I measured my wing span and it is 67 inches from tip to tip of my middle fingers. I am 5 ft 8" tall.



Correct Draw Length = 67 inches / 2.5

= 26.8"

I have the same exact wingspan as you. Since I have "corrected" my draw length issue, for some "magical" reason my pin now seems to be rock-solid in the target area. I was a 28" DL and went down to 27" DL.

I may have given up 10 fps, but it sure is a great feeling to be more consistent.

Good Luck.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

*Ranchdog, the guidelines do have some logic behind them*



AKDoug said:


> This is a much posted picture of Randy Ulmer. Nice form from a retired Pro.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ranchdog:

The picture of Randy Ulmer has several features that I would like you to notice:

a) Randy has his head held up straight, just lilke you do. That's great.

b) Randy also has his wrist strap to trigger length set very short, so that he can have the trigger closer to the base of his index finger. A short wrist strap to trigger length will allow you to use back tension to set off your wrist release. If you set your trigger tension a little heavier, then when you have the trigger deep into your index finger, you can make a more deliberate, controlled shot.

c) Randy has his index knuckle directly under the ear opening and on top of the ear lobe.

Not everyone has the same shape of face or nose size. The goal is to have the end of the string and the nock directly under the shooting eye. You can see this in Randy's picture. This is a consistent face anchor guideline.

If you have the end of the nock under the shooting eye, you have sufficient room to use your middle back muscles to activate your shoulder blade and move your shoulder blade closer to your spine. This is described very well in Larry Wise's book, "Core Archery", a classic book about archery, mental discipline and the proper execution of back tension.

You don't need to use back tension to get your wrist release to fire. Back tension can work very well for a wrist release. You can get Michael Braden's DVD "Straight Talk with Michael Braden", and he discusses back tension and a wrist release. 

Back tension, and keeping the nock under the shooting eye (shorter draw length setting on your bow), could help you improve your accuracy and your consistency.

I agree 100% with Bellows1.

You have too much facial contact with your string in both pictures. Depending on how much side pressure you apply to your string, it will affect your accuracy.

Because your drawlength is too long in both pictures, I also see potential contact with the bowstring and your sweat shirt. A small detail, but it will affect your shot.

If you must have a facial anchor touch point, close your mouth.
Adjust your draw length shorter so that the bowstring crosses the corner of the mouth.


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## ranchdog (Dec 4, 2004)

Thanks Nuts&Bolts,

This is a very good description and I really appreciate. You know both my bows are set to the shortest draw length they have. The Hoyt is a 28-30.5 and this is what the Hoyt proshop set me up with. 

The Mathews Switchback XT is 27.5 and is also the one they set me up with even though I mentioned that a year later that the Hoyt shop said my draw length might me too long, I said well you guys are the one that sold me it and I did not have a clue what was the proper draw length.

But that is another matter I guess I will have to work around, I can't return the Hoyt, or for that matter the Switchback XT. I guess I could check into getting different modules and strings.

Why two different proshops would set me up likes this I don't understand. Both are well established Hoyt and Mathews shops.

I think we should have a sticky thread about this, it is that important to select the correct draw length. I never had any macho crap going that I wanted some long draw length. I didn't even know its effect on speed or any of that. I think we need a sticky thread on buying a bow for first timers. With some of these pictures included with this description of proper anchor position. Because if the draw length is not correct, there begins all sorts of issues. For me, I kept having to move my peep, cause I was running out of verticle sight adjustment, since I was anchoring improperly, since my DRAW LENGTH WAS TOO LONG. I didn't even know.

Thanks everyone, I sure know a lot more now. Ranchdog


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