# Does Anybody have a quick trick to get out of punching the release



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

What kind of release?

best thing to try other than a bt is to blank bale


----------



## terry72 (May 19, 2008)

I went to a thumb release and it worked for me. Alot of guys swear by the bt.


----------



## 09Admiral (Apr 29, 2010)

bt! the only true answer


----------



## s4 shooter (Aug 15, 2008)

yes bt is the way to go 
but dont just throw a backtension in your hand and have at it 
get a cater evolution 
or a stan element 
to get the backtension feel then then try a regular backtension
swich to a regular backtension after a month or so 
dont try to shoot a target to much with the stan or the carter 
just use them for blank bale


----------



## Sighting In (Feb 5, 2009)

Quick trick? No. Absolutely not. 
Real answer that will solve the problem? Back tension. It might not be what you want to hear, but it is what is what needs to happen. There is another thread going on right now talking about just that:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1338170


----------



## hunting_4_life (Mar 19, 2007)

i will argue with anyone over this you dont have to shoot back tension thats just a waist of money when you have a fine release already. Ok so your punching your trigger not a huge deal there is a small time consuming thing you can do but you have to mess with ur own mind alright ok so here is how ya do it.
Ok onc you gt ur bow at full draw you have t put your finger on the rigger andgental if you get the urge to hit the trigger remeove your finger and do it again and again tell you can do it without wanting to hit the trigger ok next wile your finger is on the triger ancor like your going to shoot but dont squeeze if you get the urge to in full draw move ur bow to where you are lookig at somthing else then slowing bring it back to your target and aim once more and next in your mind you have to see yourslf outside of your body squeezing the trigger you have to see it and feel it in your mind practice doing this a litte nd you wount have to worry about getting a new release.


----------



## Sighting In (Feb 5, 2009)

hunting_4_life said:


> i will argue with anyone over this you dont have to shoot back tension thats just a waist of money when you have a fine release already. Ok so your punching your trigger not a huge deal there is a small time consuming thing you can do but you have to mess with ur own mind alright ok so here is how ya do it.
> Ok onc you gt ur bow at full draw you have t put your finger on the rigger andgental if you get the urge to hit the trigger remeove your finger and do it again and again tell you can do it without wanting to hit the trigger ok next wile your finger is on the triger ancor like your going to shoot but dont squeeze if you get the urge to in full draw move ur bow to where you are lookig at somthing else then slowing bring it back to your target and aim once more and next in your mind you have to see yourslf outside of your body squeezing the trigger you have to see it and feel it in your mind practice doing this a litte nd you wount have to worry about getting a new release.


No, you don't have to buy a back tension release. You can learn to shoot proper back tension with a wrist strap release. However, it is a LOT harder to do right and a LOT harder if you are just learning how. So, it is not necessary, per se, but it sure helps.

However, I disagree with pretty much the rest of this post. What you described to me sounds like a recipe for target panic. Shooting with back tension (the technique, not the product) is SO much better than not, and it solves all kinds of problems. For example: 

1) You don't anticipate. When pulling through the shot, it is a lot harder to force the shot, and thus harder to torque, drop, or otherwise mess things up because you know what is coming. 
2) You don't creep. Those not pulling against the shops can have the tendency to creep forward, especially if it is a harsh cam. This will lead to inconsistent shots, accidental releases, or unwanted let-downs. Not good.
3) More consistent follow through. When the release breaks after pulling against it, your bow naturally jumps forward with the arrow. This is much more consistent and repeatable that anything that can be done on purpose. Good thing.

Finally, it is what the pros do. Seriously, I only know of two archers who do well internationally who do not shoot a hand held release. Jorge Jimenez and Dietmar Trillus both shoot a wrist strap release, and they do OK. However, they both pull through the shot, which is why they can do it consistently (ish). So even those who don't have a fancy release can do it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jUq5Ab8dqc

I do want to point out, however, that Jorge (the Hispanic guy) flinches like 3 times on the first shot. Just because he is pulling through doesn't mean that he doesn't anticipate with that trigger. 

So, basically, back tension is important. The pros do it, and everybody who wants to be any good should do it too. If you disagree with anything I have said, please let me know. I want people to get the right information. I feel that this is an important subject, especially for those who are new to it.


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

Adam,

i think what was trying to be said is to pull through the shot and don't snap at it. Unless you have a high quality strap release, its hard to pull through, especially if the trigger collapses


----------



## s4 shooter (Aug 15, 2008)

N7709K said:


> Adam,
> 
> i think what was trying to be said is to pull through the shot and don't snap at it. Unless you have a high quality strap release, its hard to pull through, especially if the trigger collapses


very true


strap releases are very hard to shoot like a backtension


----------



## Sighting In (Feb 5, 2009)

s4 shooter said:


> very true
> 
> 
> strap releases are very hard to shoot like a backtension


Depends on the release, but yah, I agree. If it has a lot of travel, it is hard to shoot by pulling through. Those with little or no travel, though, you can do it for sure.


----------



## s4 shooter (Aug 15, 2008)

Sighting In said:


> Depends on the release, but yah, I agree. If it has a lot of travel, it is hard to shoot by pulling through. Those with little or no travel, though, you can do it for sure.


yah but it takes alot of practice 
the only one who i have truly master is Michael Braden


----------



## ElkSlayer9x8 (Apr 30, 2010)

Thanks guys and girls idont know u all personly but im glad u all are helping me but i dont got money 4 bt so thats out the window
:read2:


----------



## elkslayer4x5 (Sep 12, 2006)

Reaching out to your peers is a step in the right direction, Your Dad and I have been shooting so long that we forget what its like just starting out, but you're getting there ! Work on little things, try to remind your self to squeeze the trigger just like the .25-06. :high5:


----------



## Robinhooder3 (Jun 18, 2008)

hunting_4_life said:


> i will argue with anyone over this you dont have to shoot back tension thats just a waist of money when you have a fine release already.


then why is there only 1 pro that does it?



hunting_4_life said:


> Ok so your punching your trigger not a huge deal


not instantly but over time it grows some BAD habits.


----------



## Robinhooder3 (Jun 18, 2008)

to the op, sorry, but there is no quick way out of it. It took me about a month and a half to break the habit after I got a carter evolution. plus side is though I'm shooting a lot better and I haven't punched the trigger once in about 6 or 8 months. The more you do back tension the easier it is. after a few months it will take more effort to punch than to pull.


----------



## Elkslayer6x5 (Sep 23, 2006)

Robinhooder3 said:


> not instantly but over time it grows some BAD habits.



I just want to say he trys hard to stop doing this...habit...here is what happens 

Draws bow strait back, gets set ( anchor , nose on string etc.) then sometimes he goes on "auto pilot" and hatchets his hand... ( to bring index finger from behind trigger to set off release)... I have him, tell himself mentaly to slowly bring finger to trigger and try to squeezzzzz slowly ( seeing if he can feal it move)... I do plan on getting a BT relaese for us to try out... just not real soon.... 
So any help you fellow young archers can give him to help him over come this habit would be great .. he has cobra caliper release w/strap....... so he can draw with a open hand........ thanks to all that have posted keep um on the X spot :shade:


----------



## Robinhooder3 (Jun 18, 2008)

Elkslayer6x5 said:


> I just want to say he trys hard to stop doing this...habit...here is what happens
> 
> Draws bow strait back, gets set ( anchor , nose on string etc.) then sometimes he goes on "auto pilot" and hatchets his hand... ( to bring index finger from behind trigger to set off release)... I have him, tell himself mentaly to slowly bring finger to trigger and try to squeezzzzz slowly ( seeing if he can feal it move)... I do plan on getting a BT relaese for us to try out... just not real soon....
> So any help you fellow young archers can give him to help him over come this habit would be great .. he has cobra caliper release w/strap....... so he can draw with a open hand........ thanks to all that have posted keep um on the X spot :shade:


alright, a slow squeeze is better than punching it like a 10 year old with a squirt gun.


----------



## Sighting In (Feb 5, 2009)

Looking back on this thread, I don't think anybody has actually explained to you how to shoot with back tension (the technique, not the release type). 

When he gets drawn back and anchored, he needs to hook his finger around the trigger. Notice I didn't say "place", I said hook, because that is what he needs to do. It is going to touch the trigger, and his finger needs to be stiff in that position. From this point on, his index finger is not going to move from this position until the shot goes off. Don't move it, just keep it hooked around.

At this point, his back muscle around the scapula should kind of be pulled into the middle of his back. It should look something like this. 

http://www.youtube.com/user/erikaanear#p/u/15/RzsCupiGusA

Now, you are anchored, with your finger on the trigger and your pin floating around the X (more on that later). At this point, flex that same muscle shown in the video inward even more. Think of it like you are trying to rip the release off the string and you are using that muscle to pull. Keep pulling until the release goes off. What actually happens is as you are putting a backwards pulling pressure on your whole arm-and by extension, you hand and your trigger finger-that is pulling against the trigger. The release is hooked onto the bow, so that is not going to move. As the hand is pulled backwards, it will pull the trigger by itself. You don't execute it on purpose, it just happens. And there it is- a perfect back tension shot with no flinching. 

This will take a lot of practice to get right. He probably won't make it happen the first shot, but with some work he will get it. If your release is at all adjustable, I recommend taking as much travel out as you can. The release tension and travel will probably need to be adjusted to make it comfortable for him. You want it heavy enough that he isn't going to make it go off on accident and be afraid, but you don't want it too heavy that it won't go off. 

Here are a few videos of a British coach who can explain what is going on better than I can. Please watch them- they make a difference. 

http://www.performance-archery.tv/?q=node/53

http://www.performance-archery.tv/?q=node/60

One last thing. Earlier I mentioned that the pin just needs to float around the X. When executing a good shot, the pin doesn't have to be right there when the shot goes off, it just needs to be floating and bobbing in the general area. If it is not dead on the X the whole time, don't worry about it; just make the shot and watch it go in the middle. Again, more videos to help explain this, but it is a very important thing to understand.

http://www.performance-archery.tv/?q=node/13

http://www.performance-archery.tv/?q=node/33

I hope this helped. Let us know if you need more help or explanation.


----------



## ElkSlayer9x8 (Apr 30, 2010)

thank you all i realy appriate it :archer:


----------



## Robinhooder3 (Jun 18, 2008)

Sighting In said:


> Looking back on this thread, I don't think anybody has actually explained to you how to shoot with back tension (the technique, not the release type).
> 
> When he gets drawn back and anchored, he needs to hook his finger around the trigger. Notice I didn't say "place", I said hook, because that is what he needs to do. It is going to touch the trigger, and his finger needs to be stiff in that position. From this point on, his index finger is not going to move from this position until the shot goes off. Don't move it, just keep it hooked around.
> 
> ...


the guy in the video is very hit and miss in some of his vids lol. His opinion on back tension is certainly ONE OF the best methods out there though.


----------



## Sighting In (Feb 5, 2009)

Robinhooder3 said:


> the guy in the video is very hit and miss in some of his vids lol. His opinion on back tension is certainly ONE OF the best methods out there though.


I agree, more ore less. I think some things he could be a bit more clear on, but I agree with what he says for the most part. And besides, they are WAY better than anything else on the internet that I know of.


----------



## Robinhooder3 (Jun 18, 2008)

Sighting In said:


> I agree, more ore less. I think some things he could be a bit more clear on, but I agree with what he says for the most part. And besides, they are WAY better than anything else on the internet that I know of.


well, I'm thinking the thing I disagree with him most on is how he says to grip the bow. He says to put it on the lifeline of the grip but every pro I talk to says that's not how it's done cause that'll cause major torque (which I saw myself when trying to tune the ultraelite for the first time). Also, the way he says to use back tension (just put your thumb on it and forget) is one of a few that work. One is to push and pull at the same time (I think Frank pearson champions this idea). what i was told to do is once I get the bow pulled back I should just continue applying tension with the muscles I pulled the bow back with (the shoulder muscles) straight back. When I shoot I make sure my form is as perfect as I can get it and as soon as that dot lowers into the dot I put my thumb on the trigger (while still pulling really hard against the back wall) and just think about pulling straight back while focusing on no letting my form collapse and I forget about where that pin is once I get it on target. I tried it this guy's way for a while and I did like that as well. I've also tried the push pull for a few weeks and that gave some pretty good results as well. You also have the bernie pellerite method (I think that is how his name is spelled) and I tried it at vegas with some pretty good results and that is to make a conscious effort to start the pull but afterwards forget about it and shift your focus to the target. another I've tried is to simply get at full draw an pay NO attention to where the pin was once it was on the dot and just focused pulling and I've also tried Jesse Broadwater's method that is similar to this guy's but making a conscious effort to aim. There is ALSO G.R.I.V's which advocates shooting the realese like a hinge and has to do with energy transfer or something that I don't quite get.


----------



## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

Shawn,

GRIV, if i understand right, says to shoot a thumbtrigger like a hinge is how the release hand moves. You hook the thumb deep relax the back of your hand, and pull through.. more or less like a hinge.. when the pressure is taken off the index finger and shifts to the ring and pinky the angle of the release changes and the thumb activates the trigger.

http://www.grivtech.com/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1 (scroll down to youtube vid towards bottom of front page)

I've always been told that once you get on target, you focus on the spot and just pull through.


----------



## Sighting In (Feb 5, 2009)

N7709K said:


> Shawn,
> 
> GRIV, if i understand right, says to shoot a thumbtrigger like a hinge is how the release hand moves. You hook the thumb deep relax the back of your hand, and pull through.. more or less like a hinge.. when the pressure is taken off the index finger and shifts to the ring and pinky the angle of the release changes and the thumb activates the trigger.
> 
> ...


To be honest, I don't exactly agree with his method. Yah, you should shoot the two exactly the same (accept for the thumb), but I don't agree with his releasing pressure theory. It seams like it would cause a lot of problems trying to get that down right, to relieve pressure consistently. If you do it right, it will set off the release, but the problem is learning to get it right, and that is a major problem that I see. I subscribe to the theory of constant pressure. Hold the release equally on all 3 (or 4 as the case may be) fingers. This makes it much more consistent to hold, and more comfortable because you aren't using your finger muscles for anything but holding on. Then all you do is pull with your back, and your elbow does the rotating for you to get it to go off. It works, and I think it could be a lot less problematic. 

I also have problems with the push pull. I shot that way for about a year at one point, and it just does NOT work as well. Inconsistent forward pressure causes your shots to be a bit more sporadic. All you should do is pull, not push. When your front arm pushes, you use a lot of small muscles on the left side of your body that just can not be replicated each shot. It is so much harder to get a consistent forward pressure than it is to get a consistent backwards pull. What should happen is to get your shoulder down as if you were standing normally, so no muscles are not being used and the whole arm is in a sort of natural pocket for the shoulder. Then keep your arm stiff with the elbow almost straight, so it is comfortable. All the arm needs to do is be strong against the bow, but no pressure is needed. When you have a bone-to-bone arm, this provides a hard, unmoving bow that can be pulled against without coming back towards you. It works.


----------



## HoytBowHunter21 (Nov 9, 2010)

go to a big target and stand about 5 yds away and close your eyes and focus on the trigger only it worked for me


----------



## Ignition kid (Oct 7, 2008)

ya I agree with Signting in and hunting 4 life, you don't need to get a backtension release but with the wrist strap release you have you just need to squeeze off the shot and not anticiapte it. That's all that matters to me is that you're not anticipating the shot and not punching the trigger. Some people can get away with it but I almost guarantee you after a while you will start to mess up and jerk your shots around (happened to me before). Now another thing you can do is adjust the tension on your trigger wether it's a harry trigger or needs more force for it to go off which ever one works for you and for me to shoot my best while squeezing the trigger is to ALWAYS concentrate on your target and where that pin is locked in on that object you are wanting to hit because for me if I can't focus completely on my shot I won't shoot my best. Theres my 2 cents on that.


----------

