# Spot Hogg Infinity users: What blade are you using?



## Bobmuley

I run the 0.010 blade for just about everything unless the arrows tell me something different...and a little nock high.


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## USNarcher

I use a .008 blade for everything. I was Scepticle but it works. Some guy that won Vegas last year suggested it to me. :wink:


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## thunderbolt

Bobmuley said:


> I run the 0.010 blade for just about everything unless the arrows tell me something different...and a little nock high.


Same here on a Golden Premier... basically the same as the Spot Hogg infinity.


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## Brown Hornet

Contact from a wrap. :doh:

Come on Ju1ce....did some Gen Pop ATer get ahold of your log in info? :chortle:


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## mag41vance

CherryJu1ce said:


> I have two Spot Hogg Infinity rests; one is the drop away version and the other is the standard spring loaded one. I'm concerned that if I use the standard version with a blade launcher, I'll get nasty contact with my arrow wraps as they pass the blade. On the other hand, I'm not thrilled about using a drop away rest for outdoors.
> 
> Any ideas or recommendations?


What kind of wrap is that? Must be a FOB or something. I would think any wrap thick enough to do something other than the bare shaft would do would screw up everything from the balance @ FOC to the number of arrows you could fit in a quiver.


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## The Swami

I use .010 for everything. If you set up your bow correctly, there should not be an issue with wraps. I know others using this rest and they use wraps and no issue.

For me, the thickness depends on the angle of the blade on my Infinity. The angle I use has shown me that .010 works best.

I put the rest on the stiffest spring setting and let the blade do the work. I am shooting A/C/Es to 2512 with no issues.

I won't ever use a drop away under any circumstances.


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## CherryJu1ce

Brown Hornet said:


> Contact from a wrap. :doh:
> 
> Come on Ju1ce....did some Gen Pop ATer get ahold of your log in info? :chortle:


Haha no...I was having problems this indoor season with my wraps catching on my indoor blade, confirmed by the baby powder test.


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## archerpap

I'm using a modified lizard tongue.


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## field14

I use a .010 UNCUT PacesetterII blade for my LOGS, and then a .010 BEST WIDE 2-hole launcher for my outdoor setup.
I believe in arrow guidance, and NOT EVER having a "balancing act" going on where the blade is so narrow that even a slight error produces a "skidder" that goes off the blade whenever and where ever the "mistake" decides to send it.

I also do NOT believe you must have complete and absolute clearance....but positively believe in CONSISTENT "clearance" or "lack of it"...no "bouncing of the blade down the back of the shaft; positive and perfect nock alignment for all the arrows being shot.

IF you are having issues with the arrow bouncing along the blade as you draw back the bow...you may have nock pinching going on, you may have too narrow of a blade for the size shaft, or too LIGHT of a blade for the arrow you are shooting, the blade angle is too steep or too shallow, you are twisting your drawing hand and torquing the string/loop sideways, or, you are OVERBOWED...OR...any or all of the above!
IF you have "issues" drawing the bow back so that the arrow stays on the arrow rest, then you have major "issues" going on with your concentration and confidence in yourself and your equipment.

NONE of those combinations above, IMHO, is good and need to be fixed muy pronto.

I've tried the "narrow blade" stuff, and ALWAYS ended up shooting worse with them! If I just go for consistency, proper nock rotation for each and every arrow, and group tune, my scores come right back up. However, lack of guidance, IMHO can really shoot you in the foot out there!

field14 (Tom D.)


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## CherryJu1ce

field14 said:


> I use a .010 UNCUT PacesetterII blade for my LOGS, and then a .010 BEST WIDE 2-hole launcher for my outdoor setup.
> I believe in arrow guidance, and NOT EVER having a "balancing act" going on where the blade is so narrow that even a slight error produces a "skidder" that goes off the blade whenever and where ever the "mistake" decides to send it.
> 
> I also do NOT believe you must have complete and absolute clearance....but positively believe in CONSISTENT "clearance" or "lack of it"...no "bouncing of the blade down the back of the shaft; positive and perfect nock alignment for all the arrows being shot.
> 
> IF you are having issues with the arrow bouncing along the blade as you draw back the bow...you may have nock pinching going on, you may have too narrow of a blade for the size shaft, or too LIGHT of a blade for the arrow you are shooting, the blade angle is too steep or too shallow, you are twisting your drawing hand and torquing the string/loop sideways, or, you are OVERBOWED...OR...any or all of the above!
> IF you have "issues" drawing the bow back so that the arrow stays on the arrow rest, then you have major "issues" going on with your concentration and confidence in yourself and your equipment.
> 
> NONE of those combinations above, IMHO, is good and need to be fixed muy pronto.
> 
> I've tried the "narrow blade" stuff, and ALWAYS ended up shooting worse with them! If I just go for consistency, proper nock rotation for each and every arrow, and group tune, my scores come right back up. However, lack of guidance, IMHO can really shoot you in the foot out there!
> 
> field14 (Tom D.)


Tom, I never have a problem keeping the arrow on the rest, but I do know that if I use too wide a blade with my skinny arrows, the vanes actually hit the blade edges themselves. 

I can't get my arrows to tune for crap. Tiller is dead nuts, ATA is dead nuts on both sides of the bow, nock height is set to 1/8" above level, and I can see my arrows kicking like crazy a few feet after they leave the bow. The problem disappears when I shoot a drop away, and the powder streak looks terrible when I use a blade. I'm not entirely sure of what size blade it is...but it's narrow and pretty weak. I'm assuming it must be .008" thickness...or do they make one thinner than that?


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## field14

CherryJu1ce said:


> Tom, I never have a problem keeping the arrow on the rest, but I do know that if I use too wide a blade with my skinny arrows, the vanes actually hit the blade edges themselves.
> 
> I can't get my arrows to tune for crap. Tiller is dead nuts, ATA is dead nuts on both sides of the bow, nock height is set to 1/8" above level, and I can see my arrows kicking like crazy a few feet after they leave the bow. The problem disappears when I shoot a drop away, and the powder streak looks terrible when I use a blade. I'm not entirely sure of what size blade it is...but it's narrow and pretty weak. I'm assuming it must be .008" thickness...or do they make one thinner than that?


First, do ALL of your arrows vanes hit the blade edges the SAME amount?

Second, what does that powder streak at the back of the shaft look like? It is skippy and uneven? Does it hit before the vanes, leave, and then contact the shaft/vanes again?
Does it show one vane hitting with more contact than the other one?

I watched a top professional shooter, shooting fat shafts off of a launcher...shoot all afternoon and never miss a "10" on the Vegas face....You should have seen the launcher blade! It was covered with "marks" from the VANE CONTACT he was getting off his WIDE blade...and that was with fat shafts.

I'm shooting a BEST WIDE, 2-hole, 0.10 blade with Gold Tip CAA 500 arrows at 47# peak weight out of my Merlin Excalibur...and don't have any problems with that WIDE blade and those skinny arrows. Of course, the MERLIN has perfectly level nock travel and that is what the d-loop (nocking point) is set for....dead level (when arrow is on the rest). I didn't have to tune "tail high" to clear the launcher.
When I shoot my FAT shafts, same thing...that UNCUT wide PacesetterII blade is just fine.

Of course, my VANE ROTATION is perfect as can be done for each and every shaft so that they are identical.

My Golden Premier arrow rest has that "deflection tuner" guage on it...and either way, I get no deflection on that guage with either of the two arrow setups. In fact, I've shot the CAA 500's off the uncut PacesetterII, and they shoot just fine that way...and again zero deflection of that arrow rest system according to the "tune guage"

Now, you could have too soft of a blade or one at the wrong angle...steep angle gives the blade a "stiffer" response, and shallower angle gives the blade a 'weaker' response.

With my arrow weight at 300 grains, I couldn't get as good of groups or forgiveness with a .008 blade; went to the .010 and it shoots WAY better than with the .008. I know some of the PROS can shoot an .008 blade...even with FAT shafts...but I'm a person that CANNOT DO IT...so I don't spend much time with trying that.

Your blade could be coming back up and striking the back of the shaft too.

You also could have too WEAK of an arrow, as well. Normally, too WEAK of a shaft is really tough to tune and get to consistently group.

I've always had better luck with a slightly stiffer shaft off of a slightly stiffer blade....However, cuz that works for ME, doesn't mean it is for everyone.

I would work more with the .010 blade and its angle and be careful your blade isn't too narrow in that it isn't guiding the arrow. If your nocking point is too high you'll have troubles. If your d-loop is too tight against the nock..you will really have problems.

Hope this helps,
field14 (Tom D.)


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## Brown Hornet

Something else is off then.....because that shouldn't be happening.....with any blade rest.

Your cams may be out of time....your nocking point could be too low....several things really.

I shoot wraps on my field arrows....and have shot them indoors before....and know plenty of others that do as well without issue.


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## CherryJu1ce

field14 said:


> First, do ALL of your arrows vanes hit the blade edges the SAME amount?
> 
> Second, what does that powder streak at the back of the shaft look like? It is skippy and uneven? Does it hit before the vanes, leave, and then contact the shaft/vanes again?
> Does it show one vane hitting with more contact than the other one?
> 
> I watched a top professional shooter, shooting fat shafts off of a launcher...shoot all afternoon and never miss a "10" on the Vegas face....You should have seen the launcher blade! It was covered with "marks" from the VANE CONTACT he was getting off his WIDE blade...and that was with fat shafts.
> 
> I'm shooting a BEST WIDE, 2-hole, 0.10 blade with Gold Tip CAA 500 arrows at 47# peak weight out of my Merlin Excalibur...and don't have any problems with that WIDE blade and those skinny arrows. Of course, the MERLIN has perfectly level nock travel and that is what the d-loop (nocking point) is set for....dead level (when arrow is on the rest). I didn't have to tune "tail high" to clear the launcher.
> When I shoot my FAT shafts, same thing...that UNCUT wide PacesetterII blade is just fine.
> 
> Of course, my VANE ROTATION is perfect as can be done for each and every shaft so that they are identical.
> 
> My Golden Premier arrow rest has that "deflection tuner" guage on it...and either way, I get no deflection on that guage with either of the two arrow setups. In fact, I've shot the CAA 500's off the uncut PacesetterII, and they shoot just fine that way...and again zero deflection of that arrow rest system according to the "tune guage"
> 
> Now, you could have too soft of a blade or one at the wrong angle...steep angle gives the blade a "stiffer" response, and shallower angle gives the blade a 'weaker' response.
> 
> With my arrow weight at 300 grains, I couldn't get as good of groups or forgiveness with a .008 blade; went to the .010 and it shoots WAY better than with the .008. I know some of the PROS can shoot an .008 blade...even with FAT shafts...but I'm a person that CANNOT DO IT...so I don't spend much time with trying that.
> 
> Your blade could be coming back up and striking the back of the shaft too.
> 
> You also could have too WEAK of an arrow, as well. Normally, too WEAK of a shaft is really tough to tune and get to consistently group.
> 
> I've always had better luck with a slightly stiffer shaft off of a slightly stiffer blade....However, cuz that works for ME, doesn't mean it is for everyone.
> 
> I would work more with the .010 blade and its angle and be careful your blade isn't too narrow in that it isn't guiding the arrow. If your nocking point is too high you'll have troubles. If your d-loop is too tight against the nock..you will really have problems.
> 
> Hope this helps,
> field14 (Tom D.)


Thanks for the advice, for sure. I suppose some tinkering is in order...:mg:


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## field14

I've shot super groups, and field scores in the mid 270's on a half...with MAJOR contact on a WIDE pacesetterII launcher blade...but said contact was CONSISTENT for each and every arrow. The arrows still GROUPED and flew just fine...and went in the "dot" and "X-ring".

Remember, the launchers are "shoot around" arrow rests...they are not shoot OVER or "shoot around" arrow rests.

When we shot springie rests...there was ALWAYS contact...and yet I shot my personal bests with springie rests that "pinged" after the shot was out of the bow, indicating contact....but again, it was CONSISTENT contact...If I tuned out the 'ping', the arrows wouldn't group!

I'm not saying to have the arrow crash/crush that arrow rest...but I AM saying that TOTAL and ABSOLUTE fletch clearance is OVER-RATED. 

If you are having major flight issues, then it isn't the REST...it is in the setup of the BOW or the setup of the shooter.

Do you have vane contact with the CABLES? Do you have bowstring contact with your bowarm? Do you twist your D-loop (release hand) severely at full draw? Is your d-loop TIGHT against both the top and the bottom of the arrow nock? Do you PUNCH the release off?

All of the above can and will screw things up and CREATE contact where otherwise you may have little to none, or make "consistent" contact become INCONSISTENT.


I've had people not get a decent paper tear simply change arrows and get a great paper tear. I've had people "paper tear" ALL of their arrows, find the best one (after several tries of each NUMBERED ARROW), and get ALL of the arrows, thru nock rotation, to tear the same! That makes believers out of them as to how important nock rotation can be!

field14 (Tom D.)


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## CherryJu1ce

field14 said:


> I've shot super groups, and field scores in the mid 270's on a half...with MAJOR contact on a WIDE pacesetterII launcher blade...but said contact was CONSISTENT for each and every arrow. The arrows still GROUPED and flew just fine...and went in the "dot" and "X-ring".
> 
> Remember, the launchers are "shoot around" arrow rests...they are not shoot OVER or "shoot around" arrow rests.
> 
> When we shot springie rests...there was ALWAYS contact...and yet I shot my personal bests with springie rests that "pinged" after the shot was out of the bow, indicating contact....but again, it was CONSISTENT contact...If I tuned out the 'ping', the arrows wouldn't group!
> 
> I'm not saying to have the arrow crash/crush that arrow rest...but I AM saying that TOTAL and ABSOLUTE fletch clearance is OVER-RATED.
> 
> If you are having major flight issues, then it isn't the REST...it is in the setup of the BOW or the setup of the shooter.
> 
> Do you have vane contact with the CABLES? Do you have bowstring contact with your bowarm? Do you twist your D-loop (release hand) severely at full draw? Is your d-loop TIGHT against both the top and the bottom of the arrow nock? Do you PUNCH the release off?
> 
> All of the above can and will screw things up and CREATE contact where otherwise you may have little to none, or make "consistent" contact become INCONSISTENT.
> 
> 
> I've had people not get a decent paper tear simply change arrows and get a great paper tear. I've had people "paper tear" ALL of their arrows, find the best one (after several tries of each NUMBERED ARROW), and get ALL of the arrows, thru nock rotation, to tear the same! That makes believers out of them as to how important nock rotation can be!
> 
> field14 (Tom D.)


The only thing I do on that list is twist my D-loop at full draw when I move my release hand into a more vertical position with my hinge. No contact with the cables, no string contact on my bow arm, and I certainly don't hammer the hinge. I'll do some tinkering when I'm home at the end of the semester and see what I can come up with.


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## ctownshooter

tagged


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