# My bow press revision 2



## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Ok, some of you on here know my work. I have pics on my profile page of my linear press. I made this press before I became a member of AT. I had no idea that all this information was available. So after reading and seeing some of your finger designs with their plus and minuses, mine included, this is what I came up with. It is similar to the finger design drawing on AT here somewhere but I lengthened it due to some of the larger cams on certain bows, mine included. My original fingers worked but but I had to be real careful where I put the cams. So here is the design that I just got done flame cutting and sanding out of A36 mild steel. I had to order a 5/8" drill bit and it will be in tonight. I will be drilling, tapping, and panting this weekend and will post more pics when that is completed. Then more pics when I get them fitted to the press. I will have to cut off the existing plates that hold my 5/8" cold roll round rod and fit up a newly fabricated one. I am going to use a locking set screw to hold the 5/8" rod in place instead of welding it like I did on my original. You have to remember I made this press without any knowledge that there was such a following in this type of design, if I had this learning curve would have been sooner. 

I love this design, those boys at Last Chance Archery have the best design on the market in my opinion! The only thing that I would tell them is that there finger attachment and their screw mechanism is a little flimsy. I've seen many at different shops that are falling apart in these areas. Not the case with mine!


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## Blue Tick (Jul 16, 2007)

Looks easier than the other plans for fingers posted on here! Keep it up!


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

I'm a firm believer in "K.I.S.S." 



JT


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## wabbithunter (Mar 25, 2005)

*overall height and width*

What is the overall height of your fingers?How thick is this material you used?


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Forgot about the thickness. 1/2" plate. 6 3/8" in height.

JT


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## Blue Tick (Jul 16, 2007)

You got some plans for it or just feel like helping a brotha out?????


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

The steel that I used was receiver trailer hitch tube steel. I had it “lying around my shop”. It is not cheap, like $30.00 a foot. They make nestable tubing, tube steel that fits inside each other and this is what you want. I used 2” O.D. on the male tube. The linear movement is performed via a piece of zinc 5/8" all thread and a 2" coupler nut welded to the receiver tube steel. Zinc and galvanize coatings will bind if not lubricated right so it got lots of grease. A lot of people here are using ACME threaded rod which is good but not necessary if you use the 2” coupler nut. The rod goes through the plate at the end of the main press body. Thrust washers with bearings on both sides of the plate. From the right working left I have the rod with a nylon nut, hand wheel, regular nut, thrust washer, the plate at the end of the main press body, thrust washer, and one more nylon nut to keep the rod from moving. No machining was performed on the all thread. You could have machined this differently but I didn't want to pay for that. This baby is smooth with no binding. I do not have the lengths for the tube steel but I can measure and get them if you would like?

The hand wheel I used I got from: http://grizzly.com/outlet/Hand-Wheel-5-/H3472 Part# H3472 Hand Wheel 5", it has a ½” dia hole and I just tapped it for 5/8” thread. This is an $8.00 part. 

The all 5/8” thread 36” long with the nylon nuts were around $10.00. 

The thrust washers I got for about $5.00 - 7.00 ea. from QBC bearing but they don’t have them there anymore for some reason but here is another place: http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit8754
Part # Kit8754, W5/8 Grooved Race Thrust Bearing 5/8"x1 13/32"x5/8", $13.00 ea.

The fingers I flame cut out of 1/2" plate myself. They do not lock down and move freely which makes it nice for set up on different bows without using tools. This also makes it easy to change to different fingers all together if need be. 

You can see more good info on this thread below
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1090763


JT


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

I forgot a dimension on the sketch above so here is rev 3.

JT


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## Yukon Mike (Dec 12, 2009)

Whats the Unistrut in the background used for?


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## Gunner7800 (Jul 11, 2007)

Yukon Mike said:


> Whats the Unistrut in the background used for?


By the looks of it, I would say string jig. Especially with the 4 post setup at the far end.


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## Bnbfishin (Apr 25, 2004)

tagging this for later use


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Yukon Mike said:


> Whats the Unistrut in the background used for?


That is a string jig for making my strings. It is stich welded to an I beam for added strength for stretching my strings to 300lbs. Works great! 

JT


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

*Fingers complete*

Ok... here they are. Flame cut free hand out of A36 mild steel, slightly sanded, and prepped for paint. The adjustment hole has also been drilled and tapped for 1/4-20 SAE thread. I don't do a lot of tapping and drilling being a welder/CWI Inspector by trade so remember to do these skills right by using copious amounts of lubricant!!! I had a slight learning curve with this issue. LOL. But nothing a Oxy/acetylene torch can't fix.  Anyways here they are. I will post again when I get my pieces that hold the 5/8" cold roll rod in place and welded up. 

JT


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

*Bow Press Plans*

Good morning all, 

well the paint and the tool dip is drying on the fingers and need to drill the two holes left in the pieces that hold the 5/8" round rod. I was asked if I could draw up some plans for my bow press by someone here in a PM. I thought maybe more of you would like to see it as well so here it is. If you would like it in a PDF or in MS word or in MS Paint I can send you a copy just PM me.:smile:

JT


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## ckrich (Oct 14, 2009)

Awesome! Thanks for all of the tips and plans, now I've just gotta find time, material, and tools!


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

You are welcome. Mine is by no means the only one on here. There are many great threads on AT about other peoples press's. I just thought I'd share mine and my plans. Good luck and have fun.:smile:

I will post again when I get the other pieces that hold the 5/8" rod cut off my press and the new ones welded on.

JT


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## ruttnwapati (Sep 22, 2008)

*Bow Press Frame Tubing*

Good luck on your modified fingers. I also have used the 2" seamless receiver
stock that you have used. Best stuff going. The steel supplier up here refers to it as 253x253x238 teletube for some reason? He is very proud of it at $17.00 a foot!!
Looking forward to pictures of your new finger set up.


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## pure havoc (Apr 21, 2003)

one more thing when building/ designing fingers get them up and out more some of the new cams will not clear the 3/8 welded on pin block and you have to offset the fingers and put the cam in between the pin block and the finger to make them work correctly and not damage a cam , one particular cam im refering to is the UF cams on the PSEs and the longer the DL the bigger the cam is i had no problems putting a 29" dl cam in my press but 
a 31" dl UF cam come in on a dream season and it wouldnt clear without putting it in between the pin block and the finger . Keep that in mind before you have to buy a new cam from damage


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Thank you ruttnwapati. The fingers are painted and tool dipped. I just have to drag the press out to the shop to cut the existing plates with the 5/8" rod off then weld the new ones on. Then it will be done. I'm hoping to get it done by this weekend. 

That receiver stock is great. I love thick, heavy iron though. easy to work with and when your done it really feels solid!

Thanks for all the kind comments.:smile:

JT


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

pure havoc said:


> one more thing when building/ designing fingers get them up and out more some of the new cams will not clear the 3/8 welded on pin block and you have to offset the fingers and put the cam in between the pin block and the finger to make them work correctly and not damage a cam , one particular cam im refering to is the UF cams on the PSEs and the longer the DL the bigger the cam is i had no problems putting a 29" dl cam in my press but
> a 31" dl UF cam come in on a dream season and it wouldnt clear without putting it in between the pin block and the finger . Keep that in mind before you have to buy a new cam from damage




*Thank you* for the heads up. I did take this into account and I believe that mine are the longest yet on this forum. I have a clear radius of 5" from were the limbs anchor on my fingers which would mean that the cam would have to be over 10" in diameter. I think that is more than enough.

I had that exact problem with my PSE X Force HF cams with my existing fingers. I had to place my cams between the the finger and the "pin block".

That you again.

JT


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## pbuck (Mar 30, 2010)

Hey John....sent ya a pm.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

PM returned.

JT


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## curtiss63 (May 14, 2010)

making press with sat.dish electric arm.definitely gonna copy your fingers.thanks.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

curtiss63 said:


> making press with sat.dish electric arm.definitely gonna copy your fingers.thanks.


You are welcome. 

Update, I have welded the "pin blocks" in place and everything is painted. I am in the process of sourcing springs that coil around the 5/8" rod to hold the fingers in place upright. I will have photos soon.:smile:

JT


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

*Finished*

Here it is. Let me know what you all think. Everything came out great and the best part was it did not cost me a thing. Again I cut these free hand with a torch out of scrap 1/2" plate laying around. Then drilled the 5/8" holes. The springs I copied from someone else on here. Coiled up some Tig rod by hand. Works great.:smile:

JT


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## pbuck (Mar 30, 2010)

I wish I had your welding skills JT. 

Looks good BUT.....will it press that Bear Whitetail you got hangin' there?


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## bowman_77 (May 4, 2009)

looks great.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

pbuck said:


> I wish I had your welding skills JT.
> 
> Looks good BUT.....will it press that Bear Whitetail you got hangin' there?


Ya know....

I have been waiting for someone to ask that question. Directly opposite of my press is my original bow press with the wheels. That will press the really long bows. And if that doesn't work I have a welder and a torch!:smile: You can pretty much do anything with these tools.

Thanks,

JT


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

*Bow press and Finger PDF's*

I didn't realize that you could attach PDF's on AT so here they are if you want them. Just trying to help others.
Enjoy.:smile:

JT


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## hunterwd (Feb 12, 2008)

:thumbs_upPress looks great,Thanks for the updates.looking forward to finishing mine.


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## BrownDog2 (Feb 26, 2009)

Tagging a thread. TTT


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## Q2DEATH (May 12, 2003)

I bought some of the bowpress finger that JT makes and they are well worth it.

I bought an knockoff version of the ez press here on a.t. The press works great but the design of the fingers sucked. The bow limbs always wanted to slide down the finger while pressing because of the backwards slant of the finger. 

Saw this thread and the design and figured it would solve the problem. The work was great, the fit was great, and these things are mucho heavy duty. I'm sure his press is just as good.


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## ruttnwapati (Sep 22, 2008)

Q2DEATH said:


> I bought some of the bowpress finger that JT makes and they are well worth it.
> 
> I bought an knockoff version of the ez press here on a.t. The press works great but the design of the fingers sucked. The bow limbs always wanted to slide down the finger while pressing because of the backwards slant of the finger.
> 
> Saw this thread and the design and figured it would solve the problem. The work was great, the fit was great, and these things are mucho heavy duty. I'm sure his press is just as good.


Help fellows archers here and identify the press you had or have issues with. Would'nt want to see someone else spend coin on something that
does'nt work or worse yet.....would let their bow slip out!!!


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## Q2DEATH (May 12, 2003)

ruttnwapati said:


> Help fellows archers here and identify the press you had or have issues with. Would'nt want to see someone else spend coin on something that
> does'nt work or worse yet.....would let their bow slip out!!!


I'd like to but I don't have any info on it. I don't remember what the seller called it, don't remember who the seller/maker was. 

I did a search on here about a month ago to try and find it, I wanted to contact the guy about the fingers and couldn't find the thread.

The press itself works great and was worth it, the design of the fingers is where the issue was.


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## neo71665 (Jul 26, 2007)

post a pic of it, some of us thats been around for a bit might be able to guess


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## Q2DEATH (May 12, 2003)

Here's a pic of the fingers.

1st thing I want to say is that I'm not trying to bash the guy for the press he made. Its a good press and I'd buy it again. Just the fingers needed a little re design.

Where the problem comes in is where the limb tips sit in the "curl" at the top of the finger. From there the fingers slant away from the bow. As soon as the toll dip started to give, which didn't take but a couple of presses, the limb tips would start to slide down the finger as the bow was pressed. I tried throwing some electrical tape on there to grip the limb tips but it didn't work.

I could have re dipped the fingers but that would have been a constant process. I saw this design where there's a vertical piece of metal right under the limb tip curl. This works MUCH better and the bows don't try to slide out of the press.


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## Rock Steady (Dec 26, 2009)

I went a different way with my Bow Press Fingers,I got them HP water cut and mounted them on 1 inch hex bar, I can make the fingers any shape I need including extensions so I can press older longer bows.

I have only cut the prototypes but plan to make a few different versions.

I am also planning on making adapters so it can be used as a draw board as well.

The multi Hex mount allows for several positions for each finger type.

I will try and get some photos of the finished product and post them up.


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## neo71665 (Jul 26, 2007)

Q2death, That does look like a poor design of fingers. Can't say I've seen anybody selling a press like that while I've been here tho.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Drew, I am glad you are happy. I didn't start this thread to make fingers but I am glad I was able to help. Being my own fabricator makes it easier for me than most to do this type of work. Again if you have any problems or want to change them ever let me know.:smile:

JT


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

ttt


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## Relentless (Jul 20, 2007)

This thread has made me bridge the gap.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Ya, everybody does it a little different. God bless the USA and our freedom.

PM returned

JT


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## recurve fan (Oct 20, 2007)

Hey John sweet press you do good work one of these day I might have to shoot a compound just so you can use that fancy press:teeth: cya man


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

recurve fan said:


> Hey John sweet press you do good work one of these day I might have to shoot a compound just so you can use that fancy press:teeth: cya man


Thanks Jay.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Just want to let everyone know that I can help with your Linear Press and Finger needs if you don't fabricate yourselves.

JT


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## autoguns (Apr 27, 2010)

ttt


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Thank you autoguns.

JT


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## ILOVE3D (Feb 4, 2009)

*press*

Just tagging, thanks


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## autoguns (Apr 27, 2010)

BowhunterJT said:


> Thank you autoguns.
> 
> JT


No thanks needed.  ..I Thank all who share their info here . I just started a build . I'll post pics of it along the way...JW


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

BowhunterJT said:


> Just want to let everyone know that I can help with your Linear Press and Finger needs if you don't fabricate yourselves.
> 
> JT


ttt


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## autoguns (Apr 27, 2010)

Where did you get your hand wheel?


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## NyShooter (Feb 2, 2010)

Heres a place to get a hand wheel.
http://grizzly.com/products/searchresults.aspx?q=HAND WHEEL:darkbeer:


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

*Hand Wheel*



autoguns said:


> Where did you get your hand wheel?


The hand wheel I used I got from: http://grizzly.com/outlet/Hand-Wheel-5-/H3472 Part# H3472 Hand Wheel 5", it has a ½” dia hole and I just tapped it for 5/8” thread. This is an $8.00 part. 

JT


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## autoguns (Apr 27, 2010)

Thanks.
I also found some at Grainger and McMaster's site


Bump,
Save money and have fun building your own press


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## Dale Thorp (May 31, 2010)

Great info. I'm guna combine a couple of things I have seen here then have them cut on my buddies CNC plasma table. When I do I'll post some pics. Great idea's here though guys.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

BowhunterJT said:


> Just want to let everyone know that I can help with your Linear Press and Finger needs if you don't fabricate yourselves.
> 
> JT


ttt


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Ttt


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

BowhunterJT said:


> Just want to let everyone know that I can help with your Linear Press and Finger needs if you don't fabricate yourselves.
> 
> JT


ttt


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

BowhunterJT said:


> Just want to let everyone know that I can help with your Linear Press and Finger needs if you don't fabricate yourselves.
> 
> JT


ttt


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## 138104 (May 14, 2009)

PM sent


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Perry24 said:


> PM sent


PM returned.

JT


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## nyhunter_74 (Nov 26, 2009)

*/*

very nice...great job with the press! need to tag for later...lol


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## aalexander (Aug 14, 2010)

Is there a certain grade of 1/2" steel that you need use to make the fingers?


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

aalexander said:


> Is there a certain grade of 1/2" steel that you need use to make the fingers?


I believe I answered that question in the beginning but since you asked;

I used a new type of alloy that is top secret! 

Tribrillium Carbonic Alloy!!!! It's created using the Crystallic Fusion Cell process.

This stuff is awesome and if you have the means of purchasing some I highly recommend it!

:set1_thinking:

JT


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## BrownDog2 (Feb 26, 2009)

Would stainless steel work or would it be to soft?


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

BrownDog2 said:


> Would stainless steel work or would it be to soft?


Stainless steel would be fine and most desirable too! Just more expensive, that's all. Very cool though.

JT


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## BrownDog2 (Feb 26, 2009)

Thanks. A friend cut them out for me and I told him 1/2 steel and he works with stainless so he used that. I was just worried that it wold be too soft and bend. Now I just need to polish it up. I hope it works they are a little shorter than the one floating around.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

BrownDog2 said:


> Thanks. A friend cut them out for me and I told him 1/2 steel and he works with stainless so he used that. I was just worried that it wold be too soft and bend. Now I just need to polish it up. I hope it works they are a little shorter than the one floating around.


Polished stainless steel would look really nice! Ah the benefits of friends....

I wonder what polished Tribrillium Caronic Alloy would look like??? 

LOL

JT


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## BrownDog2 (Feb 26, 2009)

*Press is finished!*

check it out on post 119.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1058659254#post1058659254
thanks to everyone.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

BrownDog2 said:


> check it out on post 119.
> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1058659254#post1058659254
> thanks to everyone.


Very nice!

JT


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## BearKills (Jun 25, 2008)

What is the longest ATA you can grab with your press? I am thinking of building one similar but adding an extension bar on the end that just uses a pin to increase the range. I have a few bows in the 35+ ata range.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

BearKills said:


> What is the longest ATA you can grab with your press? I am thinking of building one similar but adding an extension bar on the end that just uses a pin to increase the range. I have a few bows in the 35+ ata range.


Mr. BearKills,

My press has a range of 19" to 45". This is with the fingers adjusted all the way in at 19" and all the way back at 45". It will press 42" ATA bows but you'll probably need an extension to take the bow apart. 35" ATA bows are no problem.

JT


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## FoggDogg (Jul 9, 2002)

You guys have some serious skills. Tagging for later. Thanks for sharing.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Thank you FoggDogg. 

JT


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## bigbubba2001 (Sep 19, 2010)

looks awsome i will up load some pics of my ideas im willing to help any one my dad built one of these presses in 1991 wishes he would have patened it damn the luck


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Thank you. That's too bad about your dad. I'm currently working on making an additional tube steel arm that attaches to the press at the same place the fingers do to make it a draw/shooting machine. I will post some pics when I am done. To be able for this to work your press either needs thrust bearings on both sides of the plate by the hand wheel or a bearing block. I attached my bow to my press with some straps just to see if it was worth trying as a draw machine and it worked excellent. The fact that I used all thread instead of ACME is another advantage for making the press a draw machine as well. It allows for fine adjustments to the draw for tuning. I'm excited about this project and will keep you guys informed. If you have any learning curves on this project for me please let me know.

JT


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## f4irocket (Oct 20, 2010)

Here is a my model of my press I will starting on it this weekend. If you look close the fingers are on a seperate tube so I can replace them with a different setup like say a draw board or a shooting machine. It will have bearings on both ends to support the stresses of using it as a shooting machine or a draw board. I think with out that it wouldn't be repeatable. 

By the way how are you getting Tribrillium Carbonic Alloy without Buzz Lightyears permission. Ha Ha.


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## JHENS87 (Nov 7, 2009)

heck of a press. i need to start building one asap


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## f4irocket (Oct 20, 2010)

I also have another one in design process that uses linear guide blocks so it can be used as a precision shooting machine. It will cost a little more to build but it will be very precise.


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## Rob D (Dec 26, 2009)

That is one sweet bow press. Great job.


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## Sm0lder (Aug 9, 2010)

BowhunterJT said:


> Just want to let everyone know that I can help with your Linear Press and Finger needs if you don't fabricate yourselves.
> 
> JT


I am not sure how to take your statement. Is this an invitation for help with the plans or actually fabricating parts that we may not be able to ourselves for lack of tools or knowledge? I ask because I would love to build my own and have the ability to fabricate, but can't do some of the machining without access to the proper tools.


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## f4irocket (Oct 20, 2010)

Thanks If any one wants I can give some prints with the disclaimer that build at your own risk.:smile:


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Rob D said:


> That is one sweet bow press. Great job.


Who is that in regards to? Me or f4irocket? 

thank you in advance. f4rocket, that is a nice press but you said you a going to start on it this weekend so my question is who's design is that and who made it? Also I would love to see the attachments for the shooting machine. Like I said a few posts ago I am designing an adapter for my press to make it a shooting draw machine. I would love to see your attachments please.

JT


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Sm0lder said:


> I am not sure how to take your statement. Is this an invitation for help with the plans or actually fabricating parts that we may not be able to ourselves for lack of tools or knowledge? I ask because I would love to build my own and have the ability to fabricate, but can't do some of the machining without access to the proper tools.


Just what is says, if you need or want help fabricating one I can help. PM me.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

f4irocket said:


> Thanks If any one wants I can give some prints with the disclaimer that build at your own risk.:smile:


Please don't hijack this thread. If you want to too can start one yourself. Thank you.

JT


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## f4irocket (Oct 20, 2010)

Sorry my friend I was just offering help to the the every one on here didn't mean to step on your toes. I will stop posting on your thread.
Thanks


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## kc hay seed (Jul 12, 2007)

thanks for posting. if you have a mathews bow or one with draw stops and dont want to take them off just cut the top 5/8" piece off of fingers or make two more fingers and leave the top 5/8" off so they are straight. worked for me anyway.


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

BowhunterJT said:


> Good morning all,
> 
> well the paint and the tool dip is drying on the fingers and need to drill the two holes left in the pieces that hold the 5/8" round rod. I was asked if I could draw up some plans for my bow press by someone here in a PM. I thought maybe more of you would like to see it as well so here it is. If you would like it in a PDF or in MS word or in MS Paint I can send you a copy just PM me.:smile:
> 
> JT


This is literally the exact same as the EZ presses. I took one of our shop ez presses apart just yesterday to fix it. If you want to skip a little of the building process you can get a square trailer jack.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Huntinsker said:


> This is literally the exact same as the EZ presses. I took one of our shop ez presses apart just yesterday to fix it. If you want to skip a little of the building process you can get a square trailer jack.


You are exactly right. I called them a few years ago and asked what they used for the all thread size and the nut. Like I stated in the beginning of this thread "those boys at Last Chance Archery have a great press.


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## huntnutsbro (May 19, 2007)

jt, with the all thread versus acme, does it take alot longer to open and close your press? i built mine with acme, but the rod is too short to use as a drawboard or to take my bow down, so i am fixing to build a new one. thanks.


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

BowhunterJT said:


> You are exactly right. I called them a few years ago and asked what they used for the all thread size and the nut. Like I stated in the beginning of this thread "those boys at Last Chance Archery have a great press.


Yes they do. I hate it every time I have to use our X press. I hopefully will be making one of these in the future.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

huntnutsbro said:


> jt, with the all thread versus acme, does it take alot longer to open and close your press? i built mine with acme, but the rod is too short to use as a drawboard or to take my bow down, so i am fixing to build a new one. thanks.


I don't know. Never used one with ACME rod. Cheaper to use all thread and a coupler nut and works very smooth. It might take a little longer to travel through the stroke but it's all about how you want to make it anyways.


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## huntnutsbro (May 19, 2007)

cool, may try this route. can find the all thread everywhere around here. acme is tough to find.


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## DODGE-3D (Feb 17, 2005)

McMaster Carr has every Acme thread available.


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## tweeter196 (Jun 9, 2009)

DODGE-3D said:


> McMaster Carr has every Acme thread available.


This is what I bought for mine. On my second version I bought a fast travel acme rod and it works awesome.


Fearless at the stake!!!!!


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

I have an extra set of fingers and pin blocks if anybody needs some. PM me.


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## S.Alder (Aug 4, 2012)

Tagging. Great design.


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## McKay10racing (Dec 27, 2012)

tagging, nice job


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Thank you.


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## turkeytom (May 8, 2003)

tagged for later


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