# 62" Recurve and 30+ Inch Draw Lenght



## DDSHOOTER (Aug 22, 2005)

Have you even drawn/Shot a recurve? You might find your draw length shorter on a recurve. Mine was. I am not sure about the pinch problem. My first recurve is a 60" bearcub at 30# draw weight at 27" draw lenght, three fingers under. I also have a compound that I shoot split or three under that is 60# and about 1" longer in draw. My son shoot a 31" draw with release on a compound and is shorter on a recurve. He has a 62", 40# Samick Sage recurve that shoot pretty good, for around $100.00.
DD


----------



## LBR (Jan 1, 2004)

The Samick Journey is 64"--I find it more comfortable to shoot than the Sage, and my draw is bumping 31" (maybe a tad more--haven't measured it on a Journey).


----------



## Markliep (May 6, 2012)

It always comes down to preference - my DL is 30" fingers, oly or BB - I prefer lack of stack, smoothness & ease of getting of the string that comes with a 70"+ length but I do know of someone with the same DL as me who is happy with a Samick Polaris that's a 66" version of a Sage - other option might be a one piece Samick longbow in the 68-69" range - having said that if you went ilf tho you hav a lot more options - a cartel fantom riser & SF axiom limbs would be a great cheap start - don't start PO high or you'll havecprobs with your anchor/form - good luck - M


----------



## Markliep (May 6, 2012)

Oops did I say 30" oly - quick retraction - it is 30" for a high anchor - M


----------



## Beendare (Jan 31, 2006)

I shoot a 62" recurve(17" wood riser with long ILF limbs) you could shoot this comfortably split finger and maybe 3 under but would be better served with 64" IMHO. my 62 is about as smooth as they get at a long draw and 31" is real close to maxing it out if not maxed.

Here's an option, test drive a Black Widow PMA in 64", if you don't buy it only costs you $75 I think. Best to try other guys equipment for free but if you can't find anyone that BW option is a good one


----------



## caligator (Mar 3, 2013)

I shoot a 31" draw on both a 60" Treadway blackswamp and a 62" Heartland custom. Treadway is [email protected] and the Heartland is [email protected] I shoot split finger. I get a little a little pinch on the Treadway but it doesn't bother me unless I shoot a lot of arrows. The Heartland is better on the figer pinch but the 50#'s makes a difference on less shoots. I just bought a 64" Bear AuSable @40 that I cannot wait to shoot. Whatever you get, have fun.


----------



## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

66" Polaris riser and Journey limbs will make a 68" bow for little money.

-Grant


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

hawk -

If your draw really is that long on a recurve, with a 62" ILF bow, I would pretty much say no problem, since the preload can be adjusted to handle the DL. 
With a one piece wood bow, all bets are off. Even if someone states that they shoot <brand-x> recurve at 32", there's no guarantee that the next one off the assembly line will feet the same. (It's should, bit wood being wood, it's always a problem.) 

Naturally, if you can try exact the bow you plan on buying (and know what stacking feels like), that would solve the problem.

Basic rule of thumb for anybody, not just long draw types ... think longer!

BTW - Finger pinch will also be less on a longer bow, but that too can be subjective.

Viper1 out.


----------



## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Started with 60" recurves and have a 30" draw. Started shooting a 66" ILF and after quite some time at that just started shooting the 60" ILF rig again. I now notice that it is definitely more difficult for me to get a clean release with the 60" when compared to the 66". I would say that I do now notice finger pinch...not so much a pinch as just a more sticky release.


----------



## hawk45 (Nov 9, 2009)

Great stuff guys..

How interchangeable is all the Samick stuff? I see they have lots of different limbs. Can any Samick limbs go on any Samick riser?


----------



## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

ILF allows for a lot of mixing...it can lead to problems in limb weight expected, if you do not do some research. Limb are rated on a 25" riser mostly, and some of the guys here can explain this better than I. One link done by Viper1:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1588147

Some would say that 30" pull is to much for a 60" ILF bow with long limbs and it may be pushing the bows design a bit, especially with heavier limbs.


Here is some vid on form and exercises:
http://www.archerygb.org/support/operations/coaches/coaching_videos.php

Here is some info on tuning:
http://veraxservice.net/arch/tune.html

My notes for my 21" Hoyt Excel with long limbs for a 66" bow. I pull 30". A Feather River bow scale was used (as one example of rated vs. actual pull at your draw length).
EX24: 29-30# @ 30" W&W/SF Axiom Plus limbs 24#
EX30: 33-34# @ 30" W&W/SF Axiom Plus limbs 30#
EC34: 40-41# @ 30" W&W Sebastian Flute Premium Carbon Recurve Limbs 34#
EX36: 44# @ 30" W&W/SF Axiom Plus limbs 36#
EX40: 43# @ 30" TradTech BlackMax 40#

Good Luck!


----------



## Xero (Apr 20, 2013)

hawk45 said:


> Great stuff guys..
> 
> How interchangeable is all the Samick stuff? I see they have lots of different limbs. Can any Samick limbs go on any Samick riser?


Yes! Sage and Polaris are the same limbs- fit wise, Polaris has a longer riser and offers longer limbs. Fuse Focus offers a 66" and about $110. 

I started w/ a Samick Sage 62" in 40# and went to the Fuse Focus in 24# draw wt. Worked back up to the 40# draw which was too heavy initially. Then went to a Sebastian Flute ILF and long limbs for 70" in 30# and 40#. 

My draw length is 29" more or less. I find the longer bows are smoother, more forgiving. That may be personal preference, but it's what I feel. At 30" + draw you'd be happy w/ a 66" or longer recurve -- personal preference, but I think the longer bows are smoother.


----------



## hawk45 (Nov 9, 2009)

I like the idea of maybe a Polaris riser with Journey limbs, but why does the Journey go to 60lb limbs and the Polaris only go to 40lbs? I'm looking to start at 30lbs, but be nice to know down the road I could move up to 50lb limbs on the Polaris riser.


----------



## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

If I were to get a lower cost riser...I almost got the Journey rig...I would stay with lower weight limbs...especially at a longer draw. There have been some reports of the lower cost risers having failure issues. I have not seen this myself...may be true, may be the result of mass production, misuse, etc???

Start with lighter limbs for form work...inspect and evaluate your selected product and then possibly order heavier limbs?


----------



## hawk45 (Nov 9, 2009)

Again, thanks for all the replies. I'm going to get out some string or measuring arrow shaft tomorrow and do a draw length check using one of my bows, but anchoring like the video links above show, this should give me my correct traditional length, then I'll have some more solid numbers.

So I do have a question.. who is shooting all these 58" and 60" bows then if bigger is better? Tiny people? I mean if guys with 28-29" DL's are shooting 66" bows...


----------



## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Most Trad archers anchor a finger to the corner of the mouth when shooting split finger or higher if shooting three under. The anchor in the vids above is an OLY anchor. The main thing I like about the vids above is it covers a lot of basic form quickly and efficiently. At least it shows some options...and illustrates things like bow shoulder and back tension very well.

Hunters like the shorter bow for getting through the bushes and a shot off with out the limbs/tips hitting a branch, a twig, the side of a blind or a platform rail.


----------



## Nekekal (Dec 25, 2012)

hawk45 said:


> Again, thanks for all the replies. I'm going to get out some string or measuring arrow shaft tomorrow and do a draw length check using one of my bows, but anchoring like the video links above show, this should give me my correct traditional length, then I'll have some more solid numbers.
> 
> So I do have a question.. who is shooting all these 58" and 60" bows then if bigger is better? Tiny people? I mean if guys with 28-29" DL's are shooting 66" bows...


I have only been shooting for a short while and all I have are one piece recurves. Low cost vintage stuff. My first bow was 58 inches, then I went to 60 inches for the grip. My draw is only about 27 inches but they both work fine for me. After reading too much on here I bought a 68 inch bow. It throws an arrow noticeably slower than the 60 inch bow, but otherwise I am not sure is that much noticeable difference to me. Probably just me.

I think a lot of average people use bows of this length. I was at a 3D shoot and I think that the average recurve was probably around 62 inches.


----------



## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

The short bows are a compromise for ease of carry in the field. They don't shoot as nice but don't tend to catch on every bush in the woods........


----------



## LBR (Jan 1, 2004)

It goes in phases. I delt with custom bows for years, and for a while the 56" & 58" bows would be "hot", then it would be 62". Bowhunters often prefer shorter bows for convenience in tree stands and blinds with shorter range shots. 

It surprised me when I learned that a lot of the posters here aren't hunters--that surely factors into some of the bow choices. Several more are relatively new to the sport with only a couple of seasons under their belts.


----------



## hawk45 (Nov 9, 2009)

For me, this bow will be for pure fun and to see if traditional archery is for me.


----------



## LBR (Jan 1, 2004)

Then going long shouldn't pose a problem. I'd go with no less than 64".


----------



## DDSHOOTER (Aug 22, 2005)

hawk45 said:


> For me, this bow will be for pure fun and to see if traditional archery is for me.


That's what I did, now that's the only thing I do, except I still will only hunt with the compound more KE at lower poundage. I find it's fun but not easy. I do think it's making me a better shooter.
DD


----------



## Xero (Apr 20, 2013)

centershot said:


> The short bows are a compromise for ease of carry in the field. They don't shoot as nice but don't tend to catch on every bush in the woods........


Yeah, my friend Carly got her dad's hunting recurve, a circa 70's short one-piece and probably 70# draw. It stacks like crazy, not able to do a full draw w/ it, but the short bow would be nice in dense cover. 

Out in the barn I like a LONG recurve -- 66" or 70" . . . And 24# is a sweet draw weight. The LAST thing you want when starting archery is a bow you have to fight in order to draw. Limbs for bows run about $75, unless you go for some sort of high-end carbon fibre. 

Component archery is nice! You can start w/ a 24# bow, get limbs for 35# or 40# down the road. I started w/ 40# because I wanted that weight as a kid, 50 yrs ago. It was too heavy for starters, literally made my arms and shoulders ache -- really ache! Went to a 24# Focus (66") and worked up to the 40# in about two months of work (100 arrows per day, more or less). 

Heavy draw will mess up your form, technique -- If you're fighting the draw weight, you can't focus on form, draw, hold, anchor, release. 

Samick is like Toyota . . . popular, reliable, affordable. Fuse Focus is an Italian import for Hoyt, also affordable. Entry recurve runs about $110, $130.


----------



## hawk45 (Nov 9, 2009)

OK guys, so I think I know what I'm going to do, but now I need arrows. I was going to get some aluminum arrows to get going but I can't seem to find the right spine in my DL. Seems like the 500 spine would be what I need, but most of those arrows only go to 29" and I'm thinking I'll need at least 31" to get the tip past the shelf, which moves me up into a 400 spine.
Is a stiffer spine alright?


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Hawk -

Don't know what you're look at, but 2016s/500s are 32" in Platinum Plus and Gamegetters. 

A 32" 500/2016 with a 125 gr head = about 40 - 45#.

Viper1 out.


----------



## hawk45 (Nov 9, 2009)

If I'm looking to start at closer to 30lbs, would 600s be better then?


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Hawk -

Probably.
There you have to do some checking on shaft lengths

It's a problem I know all too well, having a number of long draw shooters. 
In a lot of cases, we do go slightly over spined out of necessity.

A full length 1916 / 125 gr head might be the ticket. 

Viper1 out.


----------



## hawk45 (Nov 9, 2009)

Thanks Viper, always appreciative of your knowledge and help.


----------



## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Yesterday, my 60" ILF recurve with low end carbon long limbs tuned to both 400s and 340s. The 400s are cut to 31" (uncut/full length these are 31 1/2") and tune with a 100g tip. The 340s are full length (32") and show just weak with a 200g tip (will try 175g tip and 5g washers next).

You MAY be able to get both 500s and 600s to tune to a 30# bow with a longer draw length, a variety of tip weights and some slow and prudent arrow cutting/tuning. I try to leave all arrows full length these days, as I try to get them to tune to a variety of bows. Plus I think they help me shoot instinctive more accurately full length.

I do not want to try aluminum arrows.

For carbon 600s in longer draw lengths not much is available at the lower cost price point. Super Clubs were suggested by someone here at AT. These require that you go with a stiffer spine to get the length required. LAS has Carbon Express Preditor II that come in 20/40, yet these are only 30" (I may try these wider arrows)? LAS also will have Easton Epic Arrow Shafts some time in January, which is when I will probably have the money? Could not find a length for these 600 Easton Epic Arrow Shaft. Then LAS also has Easton Apollo Carbon Shafts that come in a 610 that are 30 1/2", however, these recommend a Apollo 100g tip? I just want to use the "normal/regular" tips I have! No idea what an Apollo tip is? Probably expensive...do not want those.

Stuck with the wrong arrow in the lighter weight, longer draw arrow problem seems to be common. :-(


----------



## hawk45 (Nov 9, 2009)

Trying to find proper arrows (then inserts and thread pitches) always ruins a new bow purchase. It would be nice if all the information was properly displayed in a standard format (not every company has their own) and then were able to find the inserts/nocks at the same store as the arrows. Such a pain.

Is there a reason you shy away from aluminums? I was going to try some GT Traditionals but then I have to buy a new jig limbs for feathers. Actaully will have to buy a new jig for aluminums too if I don't get them pre-fletched with feathers.

Talked to LAS about the Easton Tributes, as they come pre-fletched with 3" feathers. Maybe go that route if they come in 32" length


----------



## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

Only issue with aluminum is weight. A similarly spined aluminum arrow (2016 500 weighs 10.6gr per inch) and a similar carbon (ICS Bowhunter 500 weighs 7.3gr per inch) on a 31" arrow the difference is 102 gr. At 1 fps per 5gr of arrow weight that is a 20 fps difference. Quite a bit when your talking about speeds in the 170 fps range - noticeable at longer ranges for sure. Whether that is a plus or minus is up to the individual.


----------



## hawk45 (Nov 9, 2009)

Makes sense..


----------



## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

My diminished respect of aluminum unstayed spars/arrows comes from my sailing and boardsailing experience. I have no experience with aluminum arrows...they may be the best?

Sailing I have never been on a boat that dropped a rig. Knocking on my wood desk after saying that is one of the few superstition quirks. I have broken more sailboard spars than I can count. The carbon and fiberglass would break...just not as often. I ended up swearing off aluminum spars after to many broke or bent (I got most for free). Laminate and wood will often give you a clue of their future failure...prior to failure. Fatigue cycles of a material... Aluminum...good luck.

Having to search around for arrow spec/info., in particular lengths, is no fun.


----------



## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Oh yea...when I said spars this included booms (the thing that on a boat you duck under and on a board you hold on to). Until the Aluminum boom diameter of the sailboad boom went up and the wall thickness went "Gorilla" you knew it was going to break. I tried to sell my rigs off mid season...so I knew the purchaser was getting a decent deal. Extra work yes...and the vendors were not to happy, yet I think it was best.

As for Mountian Bikes...would always try to spend at least $1K and when steel bikes became rare I was a sad guy. Many of my Aluminum bikes get crashed and most have gotten "ticks". You really had to jump a steel bike a lot to get a failure. That may have changed with new design and materials...yet my mind is made up.


----------



## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

hawk45 said:


> Trying to find proper arrows (then inserts and thread pitches) always ruins a new bow purchase. It would be nice if all the information was properly displayed in a standard format (not every company has their own) and then were able to find the inserts/nocks at the same store as the arrows. Such a pain.
> 
> Is there a reason you shy away from aluminums? I was going to try some GT Traditionals but then I have to buy a new jig limbs for feathers. Actaully will have to buy a new jig for aluminums too if I don't get them pre-fletched with feathers.
> 
> Talked to LAS about the Easton Tributes, as they come pre-fletched with 3" feathers. Maybe go that route if they come in 32" length


I don't think there's anything wrong with aluminum shafts. They are still some of the most consistent arrow shafts available and priced lower than a lot of carbon shafts. They are heavier than the light carbons but not necessarily heavier than the ACC shafts I like. Of course ACCs are a combination of aluminum and carbon so you could say I'm undecided...:wink:


----------



## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

I should add that the weight of aluminum is sometimes a benefit. Lots of guys shoot big diameter heavy aluminum for indoors where the lobbing trajectory helps put the point of the arrow closer to the intended target "point on".


----------



## DDSHOOTER (Aug 22, 2005)

LAS will sell you single bare shaft to try. 
DD


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Hawk -

This is why I really like carbons...








Aluminum may bend, but can usually be straightened, they rarely do this.

The weight isn't as much of an issue as some folks think.
Aluminum shafts come in different wall thicknesses, giving you a weight range for the spine you need. 
Yes, some of the thinner walled shafts may not be in the bargain basement price range. 
As center said, sometimes a little extra weight ain't a bad thing either. 

Ultimately, it's your call. 
Both work. 

Viper1 out.


----------



## LBR (Jan 1, 2004)

The hit that did that to the carbon would likely destroy any aluminum arrow as well. Aluminum can be cracked, creased, dented...straightening properly requires an espensive tool. They all have their ups and downs.


----------



## hawk45 (Nov 9, 2009)

I try not to worry much about busted or lost arrows. Even if I have $10 invested in each arrow, losing/busting one every other session is about the same price of shooting just 10 rds of .308 at the range.. and we all know that takes only about 15 mins to burn though. So I try to have perspective. Any day, no matter how bad on the archery range, is still cheaper than a day on the rifle range.


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Hawk -

The busting or loosing is one thing, try having a carbon splinter in your thumb for a few years ...

Again, it's a personal call - just know the pros and cons of each.

Viper1 out.


----------



## hawk45 (Nov 9, 2009)

I'm leaning towards some Gold Tip carbons and getting a half dz to start.. but looks like I'll be getting 400 spine to get the 32" shafts (the 500 spins are all 30" max). Looking at either some of their lower end hunting arrows that are a little lighter (Hunter Expaditions) or their traditional carbons that are a little heavier. I'm guessing going with the "Tradtional" arrow would be the way to go, but just wanted to get ya'lls opinion before ordering. Going to try to get everything in one order and be done.


----------

