# Single CAM tuning



## SpotShy (Mar 14, 2005)

Wolfgang,

Set the center shot to 13/16 then check the idler wheel lean while at rest (at brace) by holding a bare shaft flat against the idler on the sight window side of the bow. Hold the arrow so that the end of the arrow is adjacent to the level of the nocking point on the string. You are looking to have approximately 1/8 inch gap. If not twist/untwist, whatever it takes, the yokes to get this 1/8inch gap. Most one cams I have dealt with respond well to this and only take a little touch up to get plumb side to side nock travel. Remember just a 1/2 twist in the yoke leg can make dramatic changes. They are rather short in comparison to the over all cable and take up slack quick. Get rid of the fletchings and shoot a bare shaft. Fletchings will correct too many things and give you false readings. A bare shaft through paper is what you need. If you still get a side to side tear (which should be minimal) you can clean it up by adding a half twist or removing a half twist at a time to the corresponding yoke end. After doing this if you still can't correct then it could be grip issues. Also make sure your cable guide or roller assembly is tight and not loose. 

What bow is it?

What arrow? 

How is the horizontal nock travel?


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## wolfgang510 (Jan 19, 2014)

Buckmaster 2000 Bow 70lb 29 inch draw with back stop in place as forward as I could so I think actual draw is closer to 28.5. 

The idler wheel is not flat - it is fat in the middle and flattens out near the edges (cone shaped) so I can't use the arrow test, which is why I visually look at the string just like in the following link http://shootingtime.com/bow-tuning/yoke-tuning-solo-cam-bow/. 

I'm using Gold Tip XT hunter 5575 28" long, bow roughly 62 to 65lbs. 

Vertical nock travel is good. I was getting bullet hole thru paper with fletching but arrow hit low with bare shaft at 16 yds so I lowered nock and bare shaft now hits very close to fletched arrow as far as height.

How do you check horizontal nock travel? I assume you mean right/left tears. The only way I could get rid of the nock rightt tear was to move the rest to about 1.25 inch out from riser or by tightening the left yoke. With the rest 1.25" out bare shaft sucked but paper was okay. I didn't walk back tune because I'm in my basement. With rest at 13/16" and left yoke tight and string severely coming off to the left of the idler wheel at full draw I'm getting great flight. Bare shaft is a touch low and to the right but I was getting fatigued from all the shooting so I'll check the groupings again soon.

I've played with the grip a lot. I really don't think I'm adding torque. I purposefully added a little torque in the beginning to see what would happen and that was how I decided to tighten the left yoke because when I added a little torque in a counterclockwise motion this made the string appear to come off left of the top wheel and resulted in perfect tears.



Do you think I am somehow compensating for a limb flexion problem?


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## wolfgang510 (Jan 19, 2014)

My bow initially looked like the picture on the right, though not as severe. I "corrected" this and got the string straight but the the nock right tear got worse. So then I did the opposite.

With my bow looking a lot like the right side of the picture above I am getting a perfect paper tear with fletching and bare shaft. Bare shaft group is pretty good at 16 yards - a touch low and right but I need to shoot a few more groups when I am not fatigued to verify at the 16 yard distance. My string/site pin/arrow alignment is almost perfectly straight, which I never was able to achieve in each of the last 14 years with this bow - however the way in which I achieved this has me puzzled and concerned.


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## SpotShy (Mar 14, 2005)

The idler wheel doesn't have to be flat. The arrow laid across two edges will be on the same plane. Arrow should overhang on both sides. You can check vertical nock travel by shooting bare shaft through paper at six feet. You will be able to tell if the point and nock are not tracking. This is a rough way. You can also put up a horizontal piece of duct tape level across the target. Shoot 3 arrows at the top edge of the tape and mark where they hit. The shoot three more at the same edge but this time pull really hard into the wall. If the do not hit the same plane then you will need to play with cam orientation to find sweet spot.
If you got really bad idler lean like you say something is off. Are u sure the bushings are not worn out.


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## wolfgang510 (Jan 19, 2014)

It is impossible to touch the arrow to two edges of my wheel at the same time because it is cone shape (higher in the center). Vertical nock travel is good based on paper test and 16 yard bare shaft test. I always pull the bow back into the wall i.e. my draw-stop so I'd have to adjust it to do your test but I'm pretty sure it is stripped because I had to crank it down so tight because it used to move on me all the time.

As far as I can tell the bushings look okay. I think I had them replaced 5 years ago. The wheel position always looks good relative to the limbs i.e. dead center and not tilted or twisted toward one or the other, which is why I look at the string position.


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## wolfgang510 (Jan 19, 2014)

Okay so I did the arrow test on the CAM (thankfully my CAM is flat unlike the cone shaped wheel) and the CAM has a lot of lean. I'm not sure why but this would explain the nock right tear with the top CAM aligned perfectly. So what I think I have done is put enough lean into the top CAM to off set the lean in the bottom CAM. Looking at the bow the top CAM now leans to the right and the bottom CAM to the left. 

Does that make sense? 
Should I bother to fix the bottom CAM? How can that be accomplished?

I am glad this is soon to become my backup bow - once I decide on my new purchase!


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## SpotShy (Mar 14, 2005)

Two things could be going on. The cam (bottom) may have worn out shims or the axel hole has been drilled off center(I have seen this done on several bows). I tell people sometimes you buy a Monday bow or Friday bow, if you know what I mean. I mean no disrespect to you or your bow but the model you have was not really known as, how can I say this, a good representation of quality in the archery industry. If the cam is leaning so severe that it causes that much distortion to the top idler you got to fix it if it is fixable. Can you post a pick of the top and bottom limbs with idler wheel and cam? I would have to believe that Teflon shims are worn slap out or if it has a sealed bearing assembly it is bad. If not you have a very angled axel hole in one through the limbs. Last thought, What type of cable slide bar and cable slide you have? If it is adjustable and out too far it could be pulling your cam off center. How much room is between the arrow and the cables right behind the rest? If it is more than a 1/4 inch try loosening the cable guide bar and bring the strings closer to the arrow and see if the bottom cam straightens up. Pictures would doe wonders.


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## wolfgang510 (Jan 19, 2014)

I am not sure what you mean by distance between arrow and cables behind the rest. Visually it looks like I have just barely enough fletching clearance from the cables. Here are some pictures:























In the last pic of the top CAM my wife had the camera a little off to the side (you can see how far off the site pins look) but looking straight on the string comes off to the left just like the image higher up in the thread.

I put the top wheel in position on purpose by adjusting the yokes to achieve a bullet hole tear. When I remove all CAM lean from the top wheel I get the nock right tear that does not go away unless I move the arrow rest WAY out to the left. So basically unless I can fix the bottom CAM I either have to move the rest or put some serious lean in the top idler wheel.


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## wolfgang510 (Jan 19, 2014)

So I read a bunch of stuff posted by nuts n bolts. I ended building a draw board for around $40 total. At rest the bottom cam is \ and the top wheel appears to be a touch \. Now on the draw board at FULL draw the bottom cam has NO lean. The top wheel does not appear to lean at full draw either. So I think everything is okay. 

However, I still do not understand why with a nock right paper tear I had to tighten the left yoke.


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## SUBIEDUDE1020 (Sep 6, 2012)

Had the same problem with a Bear Anarchy. No matter what I did it tore well with an obvious wrong center shot. Switched from the wb to a fall-away and problem solved.


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