# ALigning broadheads with vanes



## slinger (Jul 25, 2003)

It's not neccessary to line-up the vanes to the blades. That's just an old myth.


slinger


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## robk (Jun 10, 2002)

if your brest is set up and tuned right you will be fine and you don't have to line up the foletching with the vanes it is an old myth. if you don;t line them up at the time the inserts are put in then your just going to have to shoot them as they are. but i have never done that but once and shot both and with my bow tuned and rest tuned right both arrows hit the asme place
rob k


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## CritterGitter (Mar 16, 2005)

Maybe not "nessecary" but a preference for many, Myself included!

I shoot Easton Axis 400's and glue in inserts, What I did is took all my shafts and broadheads and just started putting them together one at a time until I found a broadhead that matched a shaft then again and again untill I found about a dozen that matched up perfect all the threads are different so just keep experimenting you'll eventually find some to line up!


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## dahmer (Jan 16, 2005)

Might as well increase it to 3 to 1. IMO, not worth wasting the time. You have your bow tuned correctly and you don't worry about that.


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## Byron (May 14, 2005)

*Wot*

Waste of time. Worry about your tuning, your form, sharp blades, your treestand location, background cover and a thousand other things, but don't bother with this!

Best Regards,
Byron


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## Nkontchana (Apr 16, 2005)

*Not neccessary a myth*

Yes you don't have to line them up, but if you shoot through mist net or similar it would certainly help.

Try fixing your inserts with a slow set epoxy.


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## ktrazz (Apr 24, 2005)

matching up broadheads to individual shafts takes time and then you have to mark each set to ensure you always shoot the same combination. Not worth it. If you are really bent on doing this, one thing I've done in the past but not the best solution is to install a very small o-ring between the shaft and broadhead. This way when you screw it in the o-ring will start to pinch before the ferrel is completely tightened. When the blades are in line, the o-ring will hold it in place. The down side is that you can not guarentee that the broad head will be spinning true anylonger. I switched to shooting machanical broadheads and aliminated all this business. I think alignement only maters anymore if you draw your arrow back beyond the riser and you need to get blade clearance.


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## shaun748 (Aug 11, 2004)

I too have heard it doesn't really matter if your in tune..I still finger release so I believe 100% in aligning my Magnus Stinger main blaid on a horizontal plane since I KNOW my arrows will oscillate side to side for the fist few feet and this will allow the blade to "slip" instead of planning, but I dont align anything to my vanes and never had any problems either...but if you feel better doing it, by all means do it, since it will make you more confident in your set up..

sorry, dont know much about carbons or their inserts either..mabye test each head/shaft til it lines up close(as someone else also suggested)


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## USMCarcher26 (Apr 2, 2005)

*line em up*

I don't think it is too big a deal that they line up perfect but if you shoot a fix blade head getting them as close to as inline as you can helps also try shooting a offset or helical has helped me out.


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## Full Draw (Apr 27, 2005)

*Alighning fletch and broadheads*

Spending time lining up vanes and heads is not necessary. If you are properly tuned and the insert is in line with the shaft(no wobble) the arrow ought to shoot true.

However, if you think it makes a difference try this: before putting the insert in, screw it onto the broadhead. Then all you have to do is put glue on insert(broadhead attached) and slide it into the desired position.

My personal preference is to tune my bow to a bullet hole with a shaft identical to the shaft I intend to hunt with except I use a field tip. Of course I use a tip of the same weight as my broadhead.

I then take my inserts and screw them onto my broadheads; next I slide the insert into the shaft and spin the shaft; if it spins true I mark the shaft and insert, remove the insert/broadhead put glue on insert and put back into the shaft lining my marks up. If when I spin the unglued assembly I get some wobble, I turn the assembly in small increments, spinning after each turn until I get a true spin. I then mark as above and glue into place. If a true spin can't be found after you have turned the assembly 1 complete rotation you more than likely need to change inserts. I have occasionally found a bent ferrel but not often as of late. 

I do this with both fixed and mecanical heads and have had very good results


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## Jerry/NJ (Jan 17, 2003)

The only way it will help is if you believe  it helps. 

But think about this, how do you align a 2 blade BH with 3 vanes/feathers or a 4 blade BH with 3 fletch? You dont


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## bowhunter0916 (Apr 18, 2005)

*Since...*

Since the broad head is 20 some odd inches in front of the vanes, do you really think they are pushing the same air at 270+ fps? What is the point of aligning the two together?


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## USMCarcher26 (Apr 2, 2005)

*Broad heads*

I shoot G5 Montec 100's and I have never had a problem with head vane alignment. they fly great it seems with little to no extra effort. I put them into Easton ACC's 3-39 with halfout's even and they do great. I can only shoot one at a time because I will have to refletch if I don't.


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