# Bear Takedown A Mag Refinish Project



## Outback Man (Nov 21, 2009)

Here are some closer up pics of the riser sight window and opposite side. When looking at the back side of the sight window you my notice that this riser was tapped for a quiver. A previous owner actually bored out the strike plate set screw hole and then tapped another hole to mount the quiver.

The previous owner then used a bolt/screw to secure the quiver which was too long. That bolt puntured the sight channel cover and split it in half horizontally. The strike plate was also missing and I believe that the previous owner had tried to solve both problems by supergluing a flipper rest to the sight channel cover.


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## Outback Man (Nov 21, 2009)

The last pre-refinish pics are of the limbs. Although in pretty good shape overall they had some nicks and dings along w/an visuallly aging finish.


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## AKRuss (Jan 10, 2003)

I'm anxious to see how it turns out. I started sanding the finish off a red mag B riser several years ago but never had it refinished. What options are you considering?


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

I had forgot just how bad of condition that bow was in. Kudos for seeing past the appearance and resolving to restore the bow. Many would have just thrown the bow away or used it just for shooting tin cans.


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## Outback Man (Nov 21, 2009)

AKRuss...that was the worse part...getting all the old crap off...I used aircraft stripper and then just rubbed/brushed it off...took a good little bit of work in the crevices, but overall seemed to work well. I went w/a truck bed liner coat for durability and then a chip resistant layer of paint over that. I'm actually done w/everything but just letting the limbs dry a little more before reassembling it for pics. If you want specific info or brands after seeing the finished look just PM me and I'd be glad to send you more info.

Wind...yea...I'd almost forgot how bad it was too...I wish my step dad hadn't seen the progress I'd been making or I'd of told him it was just too hard and that I decided not to do it and that I'd buy it from him for $100...


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## Outback Man (Nov 21, 2009)

I figured I'd post a couple of the "during" pics on here. Looks like I'll finish up a couple of small details tonight/tomorrow and reassemble for it's makeover pic session on Wed.

Here are a couple of pics of the broken sight plate cover, a slightly chewed up limb pocket rail, and the newly created strike plate.


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## Outback Man (Nov 21, 2009)

And some updates of those last batch of posted pics...

I ended up not liking the look or durability of the fixed sight plate cover so I broke it back down, cleaned it back up, securred it together a little better, and re-finished it although these pics are before I did that.


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## Outback Man (Nov 21, 2009)

Last batch of pics for tonight...This is pre-primer, primer, and then truck bed liner. I have to admit, I'm not a big black bow fan...not sure why but just not caught onto the craze. After seeing the look of this one though I almost decided to change plans, leave the color off of it and keep it a night rider. I'm a bit stubborn though and had a tentative plan to color it and stuck to that in the end.

The last pic was a mid refinish assembly while the bow was still in it's night rider phase. The limbs had yet to be re-finished. Just a little teaser until the final pics get done and uploaded.


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## Outback Man (Nov 21, 2009)

Alright, I got things together a touch ahead of schedule. This is group one of the finished pics I'm posting...the next group will be up shortly. I'm not sure if it was the sun or the camera, but in some of the pics the riser looks a little more gray than green. I used some Krylon camoflage series spray in the ultra flat in an olive drab color range. On top of the black it really ended up giving me the shade I think I had imagined in the beginning. 

The limbs are dry to handle, but I'm giving them plenty of time to dry/cure before flexing them, so I won't be stringing or shooting this bad boy for several more weeks. I'll post another pic then, as I've got a couple of nice strings from two different members on here. Let me know how you think the refinish went...especially for a first time refinisher. Also, I'm not a professional photographer so bear with me. Thanks.


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## Outback Man (Nov 21, 2009)

Here are the last pics...


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

Fantastic job and excellent workmanship. If your step-father relinquishes the bow to you, you have a metal-risered 'curve that will be hard to beat in performance and durability. 

Is this photo-shopped pic more representative of the O.D. Green you used on the riser?


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## Outback Man (Nov 21, 2009)

Wind...yep, thats pretty close to what it looks like in real life...


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## WillAdams (Jun 6, 2009)

What did you do to refinish the limbs? 

Did you strip off the old finish? If so, how did you preserve the silkscreened decals?

I've just gotten a wood risered takedown made in Gainesville --- the bottom limb has a series of lines in the finish and I'm trying to work out how to remove them (they're not polishing out).

William


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

> I've just gotten a wood risered takedown made in Gainesville --- the bottom limb has a series of lines in the finish and I'm trying to work out how to remove them (they're not polishing out).


"Crazing" as Outback's limb pics show










Cannot be polished or sanded out because the crazing has permeated the fiberglass. To attempt to do so would result in thinning the fiberglass lamination to the wood core and would definitely change the limb tiller and draw-weight of the bow. In effect, destroying the bow. 

Additionally, it is not wise to attempt to completely remove "vertical cracks/fractures" by sanding or polishing. A vertical crack/fracture commonly causes the color in the fiber glass to separate (usually leaving a light colored line), and commonly to the depth of the thickness of the fiberglass.

I am aware of Outback's process and he is methodical and used a process that is tedious and sometimes difficult to obtain a good outcome.

Lastly; are your talking about the wood-risered Bear takedown, manufactured in 1960 and in the catalog in 1970?


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## Outback Man (Nov 21, 2009)

Will...it was actually kind of an experiment to a degree, as I could not find the materials I was originally looking for and ended up using something entirely different. Being the crazing was cosmetic the refinish basically just covered up. It was definately more time consuming than I had imagined and as Windwalker said very tedious, but if it's a direction you want to pursue let me know and I'll help out w/whatever I can. The decals were purchased from a gentleman on Trad Gang who was awesome to work with (very friendly, lots of info/directions given, and they were actually fairly cheaper than I thought they would be.) I may be able to PM you his email if your interested (I'll just have to find it real quick.) Good luck.


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## WillAdams (Jun 6, 2009)

I guess the question is, are these lines cosmetic or something more serious:










What should I do to fix them? Would Loctite 420 wick down inside, seal and fill them? Should I tint first w/india ink?


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

If those are lateral "cracks" and not a surface marring caused by abrasion, the news is not good. Edge-to-edge lateral cracks are ominous and quite often, but not always, result in the limb eventually failing.

You have no choice but to give a try by reinforcing the crack by filling them with the Loctite 420 and lightly sanding them smooth with a 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper and then smoothing further by lightly buffing with 0000 wool. Some bow refinishers suggest chipping off the excess bonder with a narrow edged tool of knife. Personally, that scares me. I am leery that by chipping, the bonding agent might pull off/out a chunk or splinter of the fiberglass. 

I doubt if India ink will cover the discoloration because it cannot be absorbed by the bonding agent. However, get in touch with "Outback Man." He has used a covering process that he can help you with.

How is the riser with that bow?


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## WillAdams (Jun 6, 2009)

I can just barely feel one side of some of the marks --- I was told they were caused by hanging the bow on coat hangers in a closet...

I'll go ahead and get the Loctite 420 then. For sanding has anyone tried Micro Mesh? I've got some I bought to use on fountain pen nibs --- very fine gradations between grits and incredibly fine abrasives.

The riser is in great shape:










And I even got the original instruction sheet.


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

Wow! A "Green striper," circa 1980's Bear takedown. Worth a piece of change. You may read that the Green Stripers (Gainesville) were inferior to the originals. Pay no mind.

If those mars are just abrasions and have no real depth, I would just polish them down with a rubbing compound or 000 wool, or the Micro Mesh (been interested in experimenting with the mesh) and leave it be. If there is no depth to the scratches you might make matters worse using a bonding agent.


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