# centershot way off, but shooting bullet holes



## OrangeBlood (Jan 12, 2009)

OK, so I have a mathews DLD. measured with a framing square, at the string it is just under 1", like 15/16 to be exact. down the shaft about half way its jumps out to almost 1 1/2". According to OT2 I'm shooting absolutely perfectly spined arrows for my set up. I get bullets holes on paper from 6yrds. I haven't had the chance to shoot any further than that. I will this weekend.

I'm a lefty so to get a good hole I moved my rest to the right. didn't take many shots to get it good either. I've heard people say they have used this framing square technique and its get them very close. But I would say mine is way off, can this be right. Or do I have a bigger problem somewhere?


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## robass1 (Dec 26, 2008)

Try shooting at 3 yards , I only papertune at 3 yards , then I walkback tune , by 6 yards your arrow is already starting to stabilize .


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## OrangeBlood (Jan 12, 2009)

ok, I'll give that a try tonight...


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

multiple distances from right off the bow out to say 15feet is what i use.


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## archer58 in pa (Jan 3, 2007)

Sounds to me like you need to twist the yoke. Top idler lean is a CS and broadhead tuning nightmare.
I'm a lefty too and I had to tune the yoke on my SB. Looking at the back of the bow twist the right side yoke. Lay an arrow on the idler running parallell to the string. The arrow should run even w/ the string all the way and not point away or toward the string.:wink:


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## fletched (May 10, 2006)

mkeyes001 said:


> OK, so I have a mathews DLD. measured with a framing square, at the string it is just under 1", like 15/16 to be exact. down the shaft about half way its jumps out to almost 1 1/2". According to OT2 I'm shooting absolutely perfectly spined arrows for my set up. I get bullets holes on paper from 6yrds. I haven't had the chance to shoot any further than that. I will this weekend.
> 
> I'm a lefty so to get a good hole I moved my rest to the right. didn't take many shots to get it good either. I've heard people say they have used this framing square technique and its get them very close. But I would say mine is way off, can this be right. Or do I have a bigger problem somewhere?


Shoot it at several different distances and see what kind of holes you get.


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## GRIM (Mar 8, 2006)

Tune it right up in front of paper and throw the walkback tune in the trash, you can have walkback tuning give you a very hard time if 3rd axis is not set right, I paper tune right up as close as pos to a bullethole and skip the 4-8ft or whatever distances, my fixed blade and fps hit the same out to 80. If you tune at 4ft, the fletch is competing to stabilize the arrow(catching it in mid oscillation), do this, get it to shoot a bullet at 2ft for ex, then step back 1ft at a time and watch the tear change, you get it coming out of the bow straight up close, you will be good to go, this works for me and others that I have explained this to, hope this helps.


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## Hoyt Thompson (May 7, 2007)

paper tuning is meant to be a snapshot of what the arrow is doing as it leaves the bow, not 10 feet down where the fletching has had time to correct or affect arrow flight.

You need to do your paper tuning with 36" or 3 feet in between the front of the bow and the face of the paper.

Anything else is showing you mid lfightcaracteristics instead of the arrows attitude upon leaving the bow.


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## David Dalziel (Sep 4, 2005)

I had a drenalin and a drenalin LD. I was frustrated with this problem to. I set it up center shot down the middle of the string and had a huge tear. Finally talked to a dealer that knew something about Mathews. He said center your arroe 13/16 from the riser, It looks way outside center but that is were they tune. I moved my rest and shot bullet holes.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

dwagoner said:


> multiple distances from right off the bow out to say 15feet is what i use.


Something like dwagoner - I rarely go past 10 feet.


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## jbuttolph (Jan 23, 2009)

this is true. I have 3 mathews bows including a DLD. Try 3/4" to 13/16" off the riser to the center of the arrow. Also with a level just a hair nock high from 90 deg. You will be shooting Xs through the paper.


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## skdly (Jul 29, 2007)

i am assuming that this is 13/16 off the inside of the riser.


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## fletched (May 10, 2006)

It is a lot like sighting in your bow at 20 yards and thinking that your left an right is on. Then you go back to fifty and move the pin and notice that you are hitting 4" to the left. At only 20 yards, it appeared good but at longer distances, it showed itself otherwise. You steep back up to 20 yards and shoot again and it is still on. Paper tuning is like this. If you only shoot a 3 yards, it may appear that the hole is good and that it is tuned. Then you move back to 7 yards and notice a 2" rip in the paper. You adjust this out and go back to 3 yards and the hole still looks good. Paper tuning needs to be done at point blank range and every 3 feet back out to 10-12 yards and shoot in a organized manner so you can look at each hole and know where you where standing when you made the shot. This way, you can look at the entire flight path of the arrow and know more on how and what to adjust. A one dimensional shot can't give accurate information. You can also bareshaft tune this way as well.


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## OrangeBlood (Jan 12, 2009)

well, I got it shooting good at those distances...but it just kills me to look down and see my 30" stab inline & my arrow 1" outside. Oh well. I'll just have to live with it I guess. Is there a chance my stab hole was tapped off or something?


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## jim46ok (Oct 9, 2008)

*Other issues*

Archer 58 is making sense....Check for cam lean. If your centershot is that far off, and the bow still shoots well, then something else is compensating for the bad centershot. I would check the cam lean at full draw, as cam lean can make the nock wander dramatically. I'll bet if you make everything else perfect, cam timing, limb balance, cam lean, nock point, then to shoot well again your bow will want a truer centershot....good luck!


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## ozarksbuckslaye (Jul 24, 2008)

mkeyes001 said:


> well, I got it shooting good at those distances...but it just kills me to look down and see my 30" stab inline & my arrow 1" outside. Oh well. I'll just have to live with it I guess. Is there a chance my stab hole was tapped off or something?


More than likely the arrow will not be in line with your stabilizer.13/16" is centershot.Paper tuning will tell the story about how close you are spined.Point weight will also have some affect on where centershot will be.You can have a bunch of wrong things going on and still be able to shoot bulletholes.It can be real tricky to get everything exactly perfect and have the correct f.o.c balance.What you want to do is throw perfect bulletholes at the proper centershot WITH the proper point weight.That there is the trick.Trial and error is how I've always went about it.All of this has pretty much been covered already.Do make certain that the bow is timed right,the ata length is on the money and your idler lean is on the money before you do anything else.


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