# Short Draw Recurve/Longbow?



## alexcateye (Jun 25, 2005)

I'm sure this question has been asked many times before, but I'm new here. (Hello.) Does anyone know a good traditional bow for the short draw archer? I also prefer a lower draw weight. To be specific, in a compound bow, I shoot 42 lbs and 25 1/2". Is there something comparable out there? I've dying to get into traditional archery. Does draw length even make a difference? I'm really a newbie at this.

Thanks in advance!

Alexandra


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## swamprat (Apr 29, 2004)

Our club gives local archery demos twice a year to handicapped adults and children. We have found that one bow has a unique advantage: it does not have any specific draw length. Its whatever you draw.
Its the Mathew's Genesis.

Consider it.


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## LBR (Jan 1, 2004)

Talk to some bowyers and dealers and see what they reccomend---some short bows aren't made for short draws, some longer bows will work well with a shorter draw length. For the best performance, you will probably need to get a bow custom made for your draw length.

Chad


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## "heydeerman" (Apr 24, 2005)

The Martin Mamba recurve was designed to be used for shorter draw lengths. The bow shoots pretty good for folks with longer draw too. The Chaparral Kaibab longbow in 60" length will give you excellent performance at that D.L. Also the Lightning Ninja Longbow in 58" would smoke one for you. I have a customer who shoots a 55# Martin savannah who draws about 26". His arrows are 28" and weigh 515 grains. That bow throws em for him real nice.


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## CLASSICHUNTER (May 20, 2005)

*short draw*

The one good thing about traditional bows is draw length does not matter to much except in short bows. I have a 26" draw lenght and have ten or so different bows from 48" recurves to 64" longbows as well as new hoyt gamemaster with a metal riser. The thing to remmember her is that when you start out the most important thing is draw weight as you have to determine a very good anchor point and you must be consistant with it . Most people buy a bow that is to heavy in poundage and they don~t shoot consistantly with it and loose interest quickly. Since I don`t know how strong you are start out with a 30lb don`t laugh most of my bows are 50-60 BUT THAT IS WITH 1000`S of shots to get the upper body strngh needed to shoot well. The reason I say this is I personaly had a triple heart bypass and love to shoot so at 8 weeks my doctor ok`d me to shoot again but let me tell you that you are afraid you`ll split yourself wide open and its true. I shot a 30lber with the proper SPINE ARROWS AND SINCE YOU PULL 26 INCHES TRY THESE PUPPIES 1516`S WITH THE LITTLE TARGET GLUE IN TIPS AND THREE INCH FEATHERS Just so you know I wipped ass and the crowd went wild at the trophy preentations beacuse I beat lots of my buddies with there blackwidows, checkmates etc etc etc remember match the arrow to the bows poundage 30lbs 26 inch draw 1516 `s with 27 inch arrows You will be supprised also I have some 40 lb bows that I shoot 1616s cut down to 27 inch and no they are not too soft spined as when you cut them down . remmeber when you go to get a bow that they are rated at 28" draw so since you draw 26"s subtract about 3-4 lbs peak weight for each inch drawn example 36lb bow at 28 you will probably draw about 30 lbs at 26" Have a good time with it and its cheap ,shooting and buying used recurves are fairly cheap until you find your niche and then you`ll see what you want again riser size is important if the bow does not feel right do not buy it just because of the price try before you buy


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## handirifle (Jun 9, 2005)

Since you specifically mentioned light draw weight and short draw, I'd suggest looking into a youth bow. They are made to perform at the shorter draw lengths. In addition it will be a lighter bow and since you only shoot a 42lb compound, I'd suggest starting at about 25-30lb recurve. It is a lot different when you have to hold the full weight of the bow at full draw, there is no let off with traditional bows. 

It is ALWAYS better to start light and work up. No sense ruining your form for a few pounds.

Black Widow used to market a youth bow built by a bowyer in Ohio. The name escapes me, but I bought two for my twin sons when they were younger. Excellt bows (we still have them 10 years later). I have shot them before. Their peak weight was at (29#) 24" draw but I draw 28 and they were still smooth. Pulled about 40lb for me. It would be a perfect bow for turkeys from a blind. Short, accurate, and light weight.

When I get home from work tonight, I'll look at the bow and post the brand name for ya. I think they were about $120 new, I got one right hand and one left hand.

Aha, I remembered, It's Windstorm Archery. Here is a link and a pic for ya. Recurve and longbows.
http://www.stickbow.com/windstorm/youth.html


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## rwilliams (May 29, 2005)

Any Recurve or longbow with a low brace height and good pre-load on the limbs when it's braced will give you good performance. You could shoot any recurve or longbow, but those with the characteristics I mentioned will give the best cast for your short draw. D-shaped longnows and long target bows with high brace heights will not permit you to work the limbs enough to be particularly efficient, but they'll still shoot for you. There are some traditional bows like some of the Quinn comet series and the Saxon Badger that are built speciically for short-draws of 24 to 25 inches.


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## SCS (Jun 27, 2005)

Does anyone have any experience w/Bear youth bows? I have the same short draw length problem. I saw Bear has one 45#@25". This sounds ideal for me. Any thought?
Thanks
Steve


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## DwayneR (Feb 23, 2004)

Hello Steve,

Steve>>Does anyone have any experience w/Bear youth bows? I have the same short draw length problem. I saw Bear has one 45#@25". This sounds ideal for me. Any thought?<<

Like what has been said before...Drawlength is not a "set" in stone for Recurves and longbows. Granted, there are "Some" smaller bows that will measure poundage in shorter drawlengths, and are made for smaller DL folks.

I look at the numbers you give me... and few important things comes to mind....

1. 45# bow for a newcomer is way too much bow.
2. 45# at a shorter DL means a very good chance of "Stacking".
Stacking is not a good thing to have.

I think it would be better, if you start off with a 40 pound at 28" and (If I am reading and assuming correctly) your 24 or 25 inch draw will but that bow to about 30 to 32 pounds...Or at least something that is MUCH closer to a bow that you can perfect your form on, and not be overbowed. I have seen where 1 inch difference makes between 2 to 3 pounds difference of weight...depending upon the bow. But Remeber, overbowed is going to kill you in every way you can imagine... From form, to ability to shoot consistantly, to your aching body. And this happens FAR to often. More than most people want to admit.

Dwayne


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## SCS (Jun 27, 2005)

Thanks DwayneR
I have a Black Hawk Short Hornet, 43#@28". According to a hand drawn scale, I'm pulling about 34# with it. With the high brace height, it is a lot of fun to shoot, versus my Pearson Cougar (50#@28"). If I could combine the traits of both into 1 bow, I'd be tickled to death.
Thanks
Steve


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## DwayneR (Feb 23, 2004)

Hello Steve,

Steve>>I have a Black Hawk Short Hornet, 43#@28". According to a hand drawn scale, I'm pulling about 34# with it. With the high brace height, it is a lot of fun to shoot,<<

You nailed it on the head with this statement...I think the key words should be taken out so that all can see...."It is a lot of fun to shoot".

This tells me you are probably able to shoot all day, enjoy yourself, tear up targets, spend very little money, have proper form and control...All with a bow that is not too heavy for you.

It sounds like this is the bow to keep around...If you start shooting bad, come back to this bow...

Steve >>versus my Pearson Cougar (50#@28"). If I could combine the traits of both into 1 bow, I'd be tickled to death.<<

Sounds like a perfect hunting bow. It will be about 40 pounds at your DL. Make sure you use Cut on Contact Broadheads. And heavier arrows. Perfect deer setup you have. It also sounds like this bow is a bit *much* for you. Such as: You can't shoot it all day. Its a much more tiring bow to shoot. Your arms ache or body ache after a while. Rests are a necessity, to ease the fatigue. But what is nice, it looks to be the perfect hunting bow for you too. Not to much more poundage, Good enough to hunt with (capability wise), and not so heavy that you can't practice for a bit to freshen up for hunting.


Dwayne


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## Abel (Jun 2, 2004)

Alex, you can get a bow in almost any weight, but if you're used to 42# in compound, I wouldn't go over 30# in a recurve/longbow. If you plan on investing money in a bow, find out what weight you can draw back and hold with comfort and ease. 

Abe Penner of Cari-bow Custom Archery ( http://www.cari-bow.com/index.html ) makes two models especially for folks w/ shorter drawlengths; the Taima recurve and the Tundra Wolf longbow. Good luck.

:thumbs_up


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## pigpopper (May 21, 2004)

Take a look at the Martin Rebel. I have about a 26" draw length, the nominal 50# Rebel draws between 40 and 45# for me; Martin built me one 50# at my draw length. Lower draw weights are available, the price is reasonable, and they are just neat little bows. I know of one deer who really doesn't like them at all. Toodles. Pigpopper


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## longbowguy (Nov 14, 2004)

There is no need to go to a youth bow. Most any good bow that produces a comfortable draw weight for you will perform just fine when properly tuned. You could use quite a thin custom string, as few as nine strands of Fast Flight string material, which would help performance.

I do suggest you find a mentor or coach and try to lengthen your draw length. You could gain a very great deal of performance and most likely would shoot more accurately.


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