# The Best Glue?



## konrad (Mar 29, 2009)

I know this is going to sound silly but here goes:

I have been fletching my own arrows for thirty five years. I started out with alloy shafts and feathers. I have arrows done twenty years ago that still are on so tight you will need harsh language, determination and a razor knife to get those feathers off. They were all applied using Fletchtite glue. I fooled around with carbon shafts but eventually returned to alloys. I gave up the feathers and went to the two inch Blazers in ’08.

At that time, I was still able to obtain my reliable Fletchtite glue and had virtually no problems bonding the Blazers to the aluminum. But then the same thing my wife complains about with her eye liner happened to me: They changed the formula to the “new and improved” Fletchtite Platinum.

I have been around and around with Bohnig and bless their hearts they really have tried to accommodate an old goat. They have sent me new glue and new Blazers…twice… and still I have the blasted things falling off once in a while. This last go ‘round I bought two dozen Easton XX78 Super Slam 2413s and had both of Bohnig’s adhesives (the Fletchtite Platinum and their cyno-acrylate) and new Blazers. I prepped the shafts using hot water and powdered bath scrubbing (Comet) powder as instructed in the Blazer packaging and did one dozen of one adhesive and the other dozen using the second adhesive.

This time, I thought I had success…until the weather changed. Now it’s cooled off (I practice throughout the year no matter how cold…OK, I won’t practice if it is below Zero) and I have Blazers shedding from both groups. It’s always the same in that the adhesive stays with the vanes and very little stays with the substrate. I have even tried using brake cleaner and other solvents to no avail.

I need suggestions on a good glue.
No, I take that back.
I want The Best glue.

I enjoy building new arrows but I detest repairing new arrows.

Help!


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## Mdbowhunter2413 (Mar 27, 2007)

Maxi glue!!!!


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## Mdbowhunter2413 (Mar 27, 2007)

Sorry. Maxi cure.


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## BringEmNorth (Apr 7, 2012)

I'm using Gorilla super glue with impact toughness and haven't had any of my blazers fly off. I shoot carbon arrows with wraps though. I don't have any experience using it on aluminum shafts.


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## ramboarhunter (Jun 5, 2006)

First clean the shafts with either Ajax or Old Dutch cleaner (nothing with bleach in it), rinse witth HOT water and let AIR dry.
The only fletching cement I will use is Flex Bond. It was make especially for FlexFletch Vanes. It works on aluminuim or carbon and it does not REAL hard like Flexfletch does.
Saunders NPV fletching cement works good too.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

My favorite glue is also Flex Bond. I have used several of the quick set glues over the years. They never give me the results I get with Flex Bond. 

I even like Flex Bond better then Fletchtite. I have a tube of Fletchtite Platinum that I will use occasionally but I don't like it as much as Flex Bond. It pretty much only gets uses when I run out of Flex Bond. 

I clean my shafts and vanes with acetone. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dthbyhoyt (Dec 4, 2004)

Works awesome for fletchings & inserts :


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## Mr.Moose (Sep 15, 2011)

I have a scotch pad that I ruff up the finish on the area to be fletched and then clean with 91% Alcohol. I use Saunders NPV cement and have had no problems with them holding on to aluminum shafts. I also prep the vanes base even though they say its not necessary.


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## rhythmz (Jan 10, 2010)

I love the Gorilla line of glue...it does not rot or dry as stiff as other super-glue types. It remains a bit more flexible and I noticed that the vanes tend to survive impacts a bit better.


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## Msokol13 (Jul 24, 2005)

Personally never had an issue with the stuff your using but if that isn't working I've heard pretty good reviews for goat tuff.


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## fishawn (Apr 4, 2012)

I had the same problem. Bohning after one quick phone call sent me a new 100 pack of vanes. Per her suggestions I scuffed the shaft, I used a 220 grit sanding block, and rinsed in hot water. I also tried scuffing the shaft and wiping it and the base of the vane with acetone and then a rinse in hot water. Either way they are rock solid. I still used the fletch tite platinum. I did both Gold Tips and XX75s . We left some inside in the heat and some outside in the cold (approx 30 days) I have torn some trying to pull them off. I believe that light sanding on the shaft made the difference, and my first package was old stock (the primer on the bases do have a shelf life) which is why they replaced them. Great company to deal with.


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

Gateway G1 glue. It may be repackaged crazy glue for all I know but it is the only one I have not had trouble getting blazers to stick with. I have tried Gorilla Glue, dollar store super glue, Bohning Quantum, Steel Force Beyond Bond and a few others also.


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## Bownut400 (May 29, 2007)

I like flexbond as well. I use scotch brite pad on shaft lightly then clean with acetone. I scape the vane while in the jig with a razor knife 90° to the vane so it roughs it up a bit, wipe with acetone then glue on shaft. I also trim the corners of the vane prior to puting on the shaft so there are no corners that can catch anything. I prefer flex flech vanes as well but have been having good luck with fusions. good luck


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## str8arrow (Jul 25, 2002)

I use Zing primer for all of my fletching jobs now! Cuts fletching time in half, with no fletch prep. Apply it, glue it stick, just that fast.


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## TJK (Dec 2, 2010)

I also use Gorilla Glue "impact tuff". I prep with acetone I have used it on blazers on Aluminum and Carbon shafts with no problem I did switch from my JoJan to EZ-mini's


rhythmz said:


> I love the Gorilla line of glue...it does not rot or dry as stiff as other super-glue types. It remains a bit more flexible and I noticed that the vanes tend to survive impacts a bit better.
> 
> View attachment 1540987


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## smithbroy001 (Jan 2, 2010)

I've been having problems with the fletchtite so I tried everything, even goat tuff, and nothing worked for me until I tried the new G5 blue glue. I've had arrows pass through the bag with this stuff and the blazers stay on. Hope this helps.


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## yakstone (Jun 30, 2008)

I am another big fan of Saunders NPV. Been using it for years with excellent results.


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## Coverdog (Oct 24, 2012)

I've been using Bohning Fletchtite Platinum. I lightly scotch pad the shafts (carbon) and wipe down with denatured alcohol. My vanes stay stuck.


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## trapper.robi (Jul 9, 2011)

wipe down with high percentage alcohol then the best stuff i have ever used is loctite super glue. That stuff in the pic from a previous post is second best, its a gel type, but i believe the liquid stuff is even better. I just tried some krazy glue and nothing works as good as that loctite stuff!!!!


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## Pappy (Nov 23, 2005)

I too have had problems with Fletch-Tite Platinum. I use feathers and bohning vanes Duravanes on aluminum shafts. My feathers stay stuck, but the bohning and Duravanes frequently come off. I have some older shafts which were done with the old Fletch-tite and they are still stuck. I've used Bohning shaft prep, denatured alcohol, Comet cleanser, 220 grit paper and still have the same problem. Recently noticed fletches coming loose on the arrows in my hunting quiver, arrows that were shot only 1 time, before they ended up in my hunting setup. Might try the Loctite Professional super glue since I; have some and everything I've used it with sticks real well.


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## pa.hunter (Jan 3, 2008)

scotch pad that I ruff up the finish clean my shafts and vanes with acetone.Fletch-Tite Platinum works fine for me


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## konrad (Mar 29, 2009)

Follow up on The Best Glue

The first round of destructive testing results are in. The following are the conditions at time of fletching with 3, 2 inch Blazer vanes applied with the Bitzenberger Fletchmatic and left helical clamp.
I first lightly sanded the Easton XX 78 Super Slam 2413 alloy shafts with a 150 grit sanding block.
Then, using a clean white paper towel wiped the shafts down with denatured alcohol suitable for marine heating/stove applications and air dried for 30 minutes minimum prior to fletching. The alcohol left no visible residue on the paper towels when left to dry before wiping the shafts (checking for obvious residual additives). At one point, when absent-mindedly (that happens more and more these days) wiping one of the shafts, it got so clean as to begin “ringing” just like you hear when person rubs their finger along the edge of a fine crystal goblet or glass. At that point I decided that shaft was probably “clean”.

I hung a 110 volt heat lamp above my work area and measured the temperature with a digital thermometer to be a very stabile 79 degrees F.
The clamp was left in place for an average of 30 minutes for each vane and sometimes more than an hour.
I applied the Blazers using Gorilla Super Glue Impact Tough Formula and Bohnig’s Platinum Plus fletching glue.
I found the Platinum Plus much easier to work with as it has less tendency to run.
The arrows were allowed 48 hours additional curing time at an average 65 degrees F.

Then I actively tried to pull, twist and otherwise tear the vanes from the shafts.
Over all, I did achieve better results but was able to get a 100% bond on only two arrows (six vanes).
I term 100% bond when the vane must be cut from the shaft with a razor knife.
The two arrows with the 100% bond were using the Platinum Plus. 
The remaining vanes were pulled or twisted off of the shafts with some effort but when they came off, the shafts were by and large free of adhesives.
There were only 2 vanes applied with the Gorilla that had a 50% effective bond.
Every other failure was complete in that the adhesive remained with the vane and little, if any, adhesive remained on the shaft.

The absence of glue on the shafts tells me I am experiencing a shaft prep issue as yet unresolved.

I am left wondering if the shaft that “rang” while cleaning was one of the shafts that had 100% bonding. If so, that level of cleanliness required about 15 to 20 strokes with the alcohol while rotating to a fresh spot on a new towel.

The next test will involve:
1.	Another sanding
2.	“ringing” cleanliness on each shaft with denatured alcohol
3.	application using the Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel Control, the Platinum Plus and the Gorilla glue (three shafts each) 
4.	using with the aforementioned temperature and clamping conditions.


After that round of tests, if there are again failures, I will substitute lacquer thinner for the alcohol.
We will see what we will see.
The search goes on.

K


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## Rock Steady (Dec 26, 2009)

K 

Hope this helps, I use the Loctite family of glues and primers / activators.

I use Loctite 480 which is relatively new on the market and I use a Loctite 7471 primer / activator. The good thing about 7471 is that it cleans and preps the surface to activate the glue faster, I clean the shaft and the flights with 7471 before I apply the glue.

The only negative is the glue runs a bit if you over apply, I just trim any excess glue off with a razor blade. I only leave them in the jig for about 30 seconds each.

I just started doing the club aluminum arrows with 480 because the kids rip flights off on a regular basis and they seem to be holding up.

I used to use Loctite 454 but it dried hard/brittle like most super glues, I changed to 480 because it is rubberized finish.

http://www.loctite.com.au/cps/rde/x...redDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=10000009R3L

http://www.loctite.com.au/cps/rde/x...redDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=10000009RIG


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## konrad (Mar 29, 2009)

I have always liked and used the loctite products in my industrial efforts...great products.

Tell me about the priming process. Are you brushing or spraying or wiping?


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## Rock Steady (Dec 26, 2009)

Konrad

Here are a couple of old videos I made using the primer and 454.





Now I know flight manufacturers recommend not to clean the base of the flight but I find if the packet has been opened and they have any age then they stick better if I clean them as well.

Michael


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## konrad (Mar 29, 2009)

Thanks for the videos!

I will keep your suggestion in my heap of suggestions.

After another trip to town yesterday, my collection of adhesives and solvents has grown to epic proportions and I still have goodies yet to be delivered.

I just got off the phone with Lancaster Archery Supply (Maybe a phone call to them a little earlier would have been smart?) and they said they too had problems bonding to the new aluminum shafts from Easton. Apparently they (Easton) are using a new type of oil in their manufacturing process. They said they are cleaning the shafts with Ajax and using Maxi Cure Extra Thick adhesive.

And all I have is Comet…


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Coverdog said:


> I've been using Bohning Fletchtite Platinum. I lightly scotch pad the shafts (carbon) and wipe down with denatured alcohol. My vanes stay stuck.


x2 on this. I would try using the denatured alcohol it removes most oil based substances. Also silicone is a very persistent release agent so if you've ever had any of that near the shafts then that may be a contributing factor. Sice you mentioned that the glue is sticking to the vanes and not the shaft it's the shaft preparation that is at fault. If I get the shafts completely clean then I never have a problem with the Fletchtite glue platinum or otherwise.


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## bfelver (May 13, 2012)

im going to try loctite super glue . Buddy of mine fletched some up and u couldnt pull off with plyers


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## Jette (Mar 26, 2011)

Mdbowhunter2413 said:


> Sorry. Maxi cure.


X2 I love maxi cure very tough and doesn't take to much to get off.


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## HOYTINIT (Aug 28, 2012)

if you are not in a hurry (24 hour cure)
locktite GO2


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## straddleridge (Apr 28, 2010)

Used to use Gorilla glue with the blue cap but got a bad bottle. Not nocking it- just got a bad bottle - old or something. 

I tried "the original super glue" and haven't used anything else since. It glued vanes that were supposed to have a prblem adhering. It easily has the best dispensing bottle I have used. I do very little arrow prep. sand with fine sandpaper and wipe with dry cloth. Let vane in jig for 30 sec.


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## The Lure Washer (Feb 5, 2012)

ive been using arizona fastset glue for blazers for years! never had a problem. 
i just wipe the shafts down with alcohol first!


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## benny t (Feb 5, 2008)

i like to clean all the glue off with a eze-striper,then wipe it down with acetone let dry, then take 91% rubbing alcohol wipe down let dry,then i use loc-tite gel super glue. i do same thing with carbon expect i don't use acetone.


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## Stinger3G (Jul 16, 2012)

I fletch with krazy glue

Duravanes are cheap and disposable and are not decomposable


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## mach one (Mar 13, 2008)

i just refletch a dozen arrow with some fusion vanes, i just washed my arrows with some sunlight dish soap(its what i had), rinsed them off good and used the loctite super control gel. i tried pulling an ugly one off with pliers and ended up with pieces coming off, they are solid.


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## jasonposs (Jul 19, 2010)

i use the loctite control gel super glue from walmart.its super fast,tough and you dont have to do any prep.ive used it on alluminum and carbon with blzers and other vanes and feathers and it works great.i even use it on points and inserts and have yet to have any pull out.


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## g_whitcomb (Mar 30, 2012)

rhythmz said:


> I love the Gorilla line of glue...it does not rot or dry as stiff as other super-glue types. It remains a bit more flexible and I noticed that the vanes tend to survive impacts a bit better.
> 
> View attachment 1540987


After today I am convinced this glue works. I had a little shooting error and my arrow went into my bag target past the nock. It was about 20 degrees out and since it was in that far I thought it would be a good test to pull it all the way through. My 3 inch fusions and arrow wrap stayed in place.


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## YankeeRebel (Dec 30, 2005)

I use G-Team Pro fletching glue.....you use less and this stuff sets up FASSST with NO white residue!!!


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## asa3dpro (Dec 31, 2002)

Your best glue is only as good as your cleaning method. I use Flex Bond and Platinum, but I clean the shaft and vane base with lacquer thinner. The cyanoacrylate based glues will crystallize and become brittle. Good luck.


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## konrad (Mar 29, 2009)

Since writing this post, I completed an exhaustive series of experiments using multiple solvents and shaft prepping methods including numerous adhesives.
Please look for my most resent posts to see the complete report. It actually is in three installments: From the Lab Part 1, Part 2 and Part 3.


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