# The Nuts & Bolts Of Archery



## AT News

One of our users "nuts&bolts" put together this pdf called "The Nuts & Bolts of Archery. A Guide to Tuning and Shooting Compound Bows". Check it out!

At News




http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf


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## 05_sprcrw

It is a great guide that Nuts and Bolts really helped put together.


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## lunghit

Some great info here.


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## Nitro1970

looks great!! BTW who is Nuts and Bolts?


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## pvoltmer

This isn't the latest version of it though. The newest version that I'm aware of was written November 29th and this version was written November 15th.

Regardless, lots of info in there!!


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## skynight

Thanks for all the work!


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## 18javelin

Did any body ask Nuts and Bolts permission from what i understood a few years ago he was compiling this for a book. Maybe it dont matter i was just asking.


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## Blue Tick

18javelin said:


> Did any body ask Nuts and Bolts permission from what i understood a few years ago he was compiling this for a book. Maybe it dont matter i was just asking.


Great info here....I'm sure if there were problems, he would speak up! Glad he took the time and it is most helpful!


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## Andy.

Lots of good info there, right click, save.


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## Spined

Great Guide. Thanks again.


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## duda

nut and bolts has to be one on the best, if not the best person on this site. I only read the first page and I love the information.


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## rodney482

What a great thread!!!!


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## NJScotty8

Great for sure...Heck, I would pay money for this .pdf download if that was the case. Valuable information contained for sure.


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## nuts&bolts

18javelin said:


> Did any body ask Nuts and Bolts permission from what i understood a few years ago he was compiling this for a book. Maybe it dont matter i was just asking.


No worries.
BowtechCDR is my editor,
and he created the first version from the thread,
into book format.

Distribution is for free.
Most of the stuff is from the "New to Bowtuning. Looking for Guidelines" thread.
I added some more stuff.

We have been distributing to AT members for free,
and as I add more stuff,
then BowtechCDR sends out the latest version,
to all prior folks, for free.

A book by the folks of AT,
for the folks of AT,
of the folks of AT.

No worries.


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## DocMort

I have it on my email and get the updates when it comes in. I will say this it is great. Nuts and Bolts I thank you for taking the time to put it together


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## 05_sprcrw

nuts&bolts said:


> No worries.
> BowtechCDR is my editor,
> and he created the first version from the thread,
> into book format.
> 
> Distribution is for free.
> Most of the stuff is from the "New to Bowtuning. Looking for Guidelines" thread.
> I added some more stuff.
> 
> We have been distributing to AT members for free,
> and as I add more stuff,
> then BowtechCDR sends out the latest version,
> to all prior folks, for free.
> 
> A book by the folks of AT,
> for the folks of AT,
> of the folks of AT.
> 
> No worries.


Your the man :thumbs_up and if you ever make a book I will buy it.


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## 18javelin

nuts&bolts said:


> No worries.
> BowtechCDR is my editor,
> and he created the first version from the thread,
> into book format.
> 
> Distribution is for free.
> Most of the stuff is from the "New to Bowtuning. Looking for Guidelines" thread.
> I added some more stuff.
> 
> We have been distributing to AT members for free,
> and as I add more stuff,
> then BowtechCDR sends out the latest version,
> to all prior folks, for free.
> 
> A book by the folks of AT,
> for the folks of AT,
> of the folks of AT.
> 
> No worries.


You have Helped me in the past a few times directly for that i owe at least a Big Thank you, For this sir you deserve a thankYou ffrom every archer that reads it. You have put lots of time in sir and thanks.


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## Hmong|Hunter

Great guide packed with lots of information! Excellent job nuts&bolts!


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## Blazinpond

*BIG THUMBS UP .... BowtechCDR - for your work compiling and editing - simply amazing* :wink::thumbs_up

.....oh yea, much thanks to Nuts&Bolts for sharing his wisdom! :set1_applaud:


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## Mikegb88

Awesome!


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## CHobbs

Nuts&Bolts and BowtechCDR have been great putting this together. Both very nice guys with a lot of knowledge. This is why I love archery!!! Everyone helps each other out


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## IMADMAN

LOL!!!! I asked N&B about a book a while back, at that time he said it was merely "thought bubbles" Haven't had a chance to look at it yet. But I remember him making a thread about "walk back tuning" and it was easy to understand and even easier to do. Glad to see you finally got it all together, many thanks!!!!


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## D-TRAIN

Awesome! If I see a post by N&B I will always read it with attentiveness! Have learned so much from him!


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## gashogford

WOW! great info


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## ballison90

It finally got the sticky!!!!!!!!


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## BowTechCDR

Hi everyone,

I have to say, this has been one of the best things I have ever been involved with and I am stoked that this is a sticky again. 

Not only have I learned a TON about tuning and shooting, I have learned that the archery community is filled with even better people than I at first thought, and I thought they were pretty darn good before I started this project.

Thanks, Alan, for everything.

Cheers! :cheers:

Tim

p.s. There is an updated iteration available. If you want the most recent revision, PM me your email address. I will save your email addy for future updates unless you tell me otherwise.


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## sniperjim

pvoltmer said:


> This isn't the latest version of it though. The newest version that I'm aware of was written November 29th and this version was written November 15th.
> 
> Regardless, lots of info in there!!


 have the new version that includes Chapter 12 / Back Tension


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## Neuralgia

I have rev 1 and 2 (posted in this thread).

I also got today Chapter 12: Back Tension.

Is there a PayPal account I can donate to? I'd be more than glad.

Besides, if you ever publish this as a book, I'll be buying it also.


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## sniperjim

05_sprcrw said:


> It is a great guide that Nuts and Bolts really helped put together.


As all know by now, Nuts&Bolts is the Author, BowTechCDR is the Editor/Distributor


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## BowTechCDR

BowTechCDR said:


> ...and I am stoked that this is a sticky again...



My mistake, the pdf wasn't a sticky before, the thread that preceded the pdf was. Anyhoo, it is good to see it as a sticky!!

I sure hope this one gets 18,000+ views too! If that happens, it means many more people have the opportunity to learn from nuts&bolts wisdom. That is definitely a good thing.

Cheers!


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## Madlaz

Way to go Tim and Alan this has to be one of the best threads ever put on AT and want to also Terry Martin for allowing this to become a sticky also to the mods for allowing this more than helpfull thread I was just wondering if the Terry Martin has seen this thread.


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## Fleahop

First off I would like to say thank you Tim for compiling the different threads and post made by Allen in the begining as a one stop shop for this information.

Secondly I want to thank Allen for getting on board with Tim and really making this a reality for the archery comunity. Tim and Allen have worked hard for this to become reality.

I have had the privilage and the Honor of meeting Allen. He is a very nice person that really wants to see people succed in archery. He has a way of taking information and wording it in such a way that the average person can understand. Allen offers alot to the archery comunity here at Archery Talk and ask nothing in return for this information.

I know alot of this information is known and shared by many. It is just great that alot is now found under one cover.

If you have not requested the PDF files you really need to do so.

Thanks Again
Sincerely
Flea


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## sagecreek

:thumb:


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## cjac5525

Have to give a big thanks for the guide. As someone new to archery and bowhunting I am looking to be as "self sufficient" as possible and work on my own bow. This guide will help tremendously! Thanks to all involved in creating, organizing and putting it together!


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## surmn8er

Great thread. Thanks for posting.


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## Poison4504

Great work guys. It is awesome thatyou took the time to put this together for the fellow archers. Thanks again


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## a1hoyt.ca

Just took a look @ your guide it looks great thanks for putting it together. Very informative. Thanks.


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## rackmasterlgw

nuts&bolts,thanks for all the useful information.All archers should should enjoy this compilation.

BowTechCDR,your work made all this information easier to understand.Thanks again.


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## trey_dogg3

So how do we sign up to get email updates. [email protected] Thanks Trey


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## FlyingArcher

Fantastic compilation!! I've made PDFs out of a few of N&B's posts in the past. Very informative and to have it all together is great! Thank you both very much!!!!!!!!


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## aulim

N&B Bowtech CDR,
Thanks for posting the pdf.
from an archer 8,000 miles away.


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## nuts&bolts

trey_dogg3 said:


> So how do we sign up to get email updates. [email protected] Thanks Trey


Hello Trey:

Send your email address, via pm to BowtechCDR.
BowtechCDR will add you to the email list,
and send you the latest version.

The latest version is up to Chapter 12 (Back Tension),
with a total of 159 pages,
and lots and lots of pictures.


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## BowTechCDR

Hi everyone.

I just sent several copies. If you are waiting, PM me your email address and I will get one out to you as soon as possible.

Cheers! :cheers:

Tim


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## abianca99

Thanks for a great thread


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## vastriker

A *BIG* Thanks To You Guys for putting this together. I know it will help Me alot. Really appreciate the info. Great job.
John


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## MissAlaLogBuyer

I was one of the question askers on the "New to bowtuning... Looking for Guidelines" thread and have been recieving the updates via email. And to tim (BowtechCDR) and Nuts&Bolts i would like to give a huge thank you! It is a great piece for the archer, beginner all the way to pro shop owner. 

Thanks alot guys! Great job!


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## thenson

THIS IS FANTASTIC.

Congrats Alan, I know that you have thought about this for a long time and I've been looking forward to it, for just as long. I'm anxious to get thru the book. I too was a collector of Nuts&Bolts posts and somewhere have a 3 ring binder collection of archery wisdom.

Still look forward to an actual hardback printed version published and I want to get an autographed copy of it's first printing...

thenson


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## lnevett

Thank you to all people involved.

AAAA++++


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## Christopher67

*Awesome thread !* :thumbs_up


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## Rockmm

nice


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## BowTechCDR

Today's requests have been filled!!! :teeth:

Don't forget to PM me your email address if you want a copy or you want to be on the update list.

Cheers!


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## sniperjim

Tim, I have emailed a bunch of people with the First edition and I will try over the next couple of days to compile a list of emails for you to send the update too. Didn't intend to jack your distribution, I just posted once a while ago that I had a guide from N&B and the requests came in pretty steady. Great job on the follow threw. Nice to see Flea posting again!!!


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## BowTechCDR

sniperjim said:


> Tim, I have emailed a bunch of people with the First edition and I will try over the next couple of days to compile a list of emails for you to send the update too. Didn't intend to jack your distribution, I just posted once a while ago that I had a guide from N&B and the requests came in pretty steady. Great job on the follow threw. Nice to see Flea posting again!!!


No problem. I am still getting a steady stream of requests myself.

Keep them coming!!!!!!


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## sniperjim

Bump for the greatest tuning thread of all time for the shooters that look at new posts.


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## Jhorne

Why can't I get it to load?


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## DonsHarley

Jhorne said:


> Why can't I get it to load?


Send a PM to BowTechCDRand he'll send you the link.


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## nuts&bolts

Jhorne said:


> Why can't I get it to load?


If you are having troubles,
send a pm message to BowtechCDR with your email address
and
BowtechCDR will send you a series of emails (total of 3)
for the latest version of the "guide". Total of 12 chapters.

Currently, 159 pages, and just under 4 MB file size.

Kinda picture heavy.


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## Jhorne

Thanx everyone. I downloaded Adobe Reader and it's working now.


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## Jungleman

Thank you!


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## AdvanTimberLou

Lots of great information there, thanks for putting this together! Hopefully it can help my spot shooting this year! :thumb:


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## SWIADEERHNTR

Thank you for this great thread! Just got my first bow last month. My groups at 20 yards were needless to say, awful. In fact, aiming at the center of a block target I was sometimes hitting/grazing the top or side. I found this "nuts and bolts" and read every word 3 weeks ago. Last weekend I shot again on the same target at 20 yards. I have 4 arrows and I'd shoot all 4 then start over. Did this 7 times. 5 times I shot the set of 4 arrows, 3 of the 4 arrows had fletchings touching in the center dot. THANK YOU!

No doubt I have more practice to do such as moving back now to 30 yards, and then with broadheads but this really taught me a lot and got me on track. Thanks again!


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## Muy Grande

Just sent my email addy for a copy of the file. Thank you guys a lot for taking the time to put this together. Loads of info in there for archers of any skill level. THIS is "Archers Helping Archers"!


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## nuts&bolts

SWIADEERHNTR said:


> Thank you for this great thread! Just got my first bow last month. My groups at 20 yards were needless to say, awful. In fact, aiming at the center of a block target I was sometimes hitting/grazing the top or side. I found this "nuts and bolts" and read every word 3 weeks ago. Last weekend I shot again on the same target at 20 yards. I have 4 arrows and I'd shoot all 4 then start over. Did this 7 times. 5 times I shot the set of 4 arrows, 3 of the 4 arrows had fletchings touching in the center dot. THANK YOU!
> 
> No doubt I have more practice to do such as moving back now to 30 yards, and then with broadheads but this really taught me a lot and got me on track. Thanks again!


That's great! Keep practicing.


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## nuts&bolts

Muy Grande said:


> Just sent my email addy for a copy of the file. Thank you guys a lot for taking the time to put this together. Loads of info in there for archers of any skill level. THIS is "Archers Helping Archers"!


You can download from the "sticky" in the General Discussion section (this thread)...Post #1

or

you can send your enail address via pm message to BowtechCDR,
and you can receive updates by email.


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## Muy Grande

nuts&bolts said:


> You can download from the "sticky" in the General Discussion section (this thread)...Post #1
> 
> or
> 
> you can send your enail address via pm message to BowtechCDR,
> and you can receive updates by email.


Got my emailed copy today! Thanks again fellows, this is a great compilation of info.


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## DougUndy

*Book?*

Has this been published and if so , where can I buy it?


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## pbuck

There's a LOT of good info in here! Thanks for the copy and future updates.


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## nuts&bolts

DougUndy said:


> Has this been published and if so , where can I buy it?


No charge.

Feel free to download the pdf file from page 1 of this thread,
or...

you can send your email address via pm
to BowtechCDR
and he will add you to an email list,
and you will get an email update,
whenever a newer version is available.


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## MidFlight

This is great information, a big Thank you goes out to Nuts & Bolts for sharing with us. I appreciate it very much!!


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## ballison90

The recurve info will now be of great help to me.... I just bought a Hoyt GMX!!!!


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## nuts&bolts

ballison90 said:


> The recurve info will now be of great help to me.... I just bought a Hoyt GMX!!!!


Excellent choice.


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## KS_Dog_Caller

*Thanks*

Thanks for compiling and sharing this, it looks to be a very useful guide.


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## gold3499

That is awesome. Thanks Nuts & Bolts. You're a gem.


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## v5cvbb

ballison90 said:


> The recurve info will now be of great help to me.... I just bought a Hoyt GMX!!!!


Did I miss some recurve info in the pdf? Is there a similar guide for target recurves somewhere?

Thanks,

Kevin


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## nuts&bolts

v5cvbb said:


> Did I miss some recurve info in the pdf? Is there a similar guide for target recurves somewhere?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Kevin


Hello Kevin:

The thread by BowtechCDR..."New to Bowtuning...Looking for Guidelines"
was converted into book format
by myself and BowtechCDR.

So, buried in the thread,
are questions and answers about FINGERS shooting
and RECURVE shooting.

So,
I have taken those questions answers for FINGERS and RECURVE shooting,
and prepared this 30 page booklet. LOTS of photos, and simple, plain language
advice.

Send a pm to BowtechCDR
with your email address,
and he will distribute this RECURVE Guide to Tuning and Shooting.

The RECURVE Guide is about a 2MB pdf file.


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## v5cvbb

PM sent. I look forward to reading the file. Thanks for the info. 

Kevin


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## wglide85

Thanks for the pdf file.
This will get printed and taken to the range.


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## LUCKYDUX

Just wanted to give a sincere thank you for such easy to understand information!!! It is also another great example of how human beings can be so gracious and giving...truly inspiring in this day and age.


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## v5cvbb

Great info. Thanks guys. 

Kevin


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## buckbow

thanks for the great resource! I put it on a cd for my freinds!


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## nuts&bolts

buckbow said:


> thanks for the great resource! I put it on a cd for my freinds!


Great idea. Feel free to pass it around to your friends.


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## Christopher Lee

A lite-time of discovery, experience and expertise laid out at your feet!

*KUDOS Alan!* :banana: :icon_salut: :star:

Best part is on broadband, it takes less than 10 seconds to download and save!

I've forgotten most of the mechanics of the bow, and of shooting, so I'm going to read it all over again! :shade:


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## WillAdams

When will the up-dated .pdfs be posted here?


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## nuts&bolts

WillAdams said:


> When will the up-dated .pdfs be posted here?


The latest version has Chapter 12 = Back Tension.

If you like,
you can also send a pm to BowtechCDR
and get onto the email list.

As newer versions get published,
I send them to BowtechCDR for email distribution,
and
I also send them to AT News,
for posting here on this thread,
by AT.


If you have any specific questions,
let me know
and I can add to the MS Word file,
and when enough changes are made,
I put out a newer version.


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## BAMBRANCH

I recall one of his posts
OP; I have a PSE Deer Hunter and Im wondering how to check for cam lean?
N&B; First you need to build a draw board.....................................................


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## BowTechCDR

Hi everyone!

I was away on vacation and just sent out a round of guides to all that asked for them in the last week.

Cheers!

Tim


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## kcbarnes10

Looks good


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## drenalinnut

*Walk Back Tuning*

Thanks for the great info in Nuts and Bolts.
I never could fiqure out why I was having left arrows at longer distances. After using the walk back tuning I have a a completely vertical pattern out to 40 yds.


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## bpot4

Thanks for taking the time to help all of us out!


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## monsterbuckrick

Excellent information.Thankyou for your hard work.


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## rhythmz

This is INCREDIBLE!!! So many questions answered in this manual that I will swave ALOT of time not posting those questions on AT.

Nuts & Bolts, you are spoiling us!!! :77:


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## dannzeman

Thanks for all the hard work on this! I'm learning so much. Can't wait to start fine tuning.


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## Pure_Archery

*Thanks*

Thank you very much for this book. I have read the book from front to back so I could catch up to the times. I had the archery fever in the early ninties where I also volunteered in a pro shop for some range time. Boy has things progressed over the years. My 11 year old son was having some issues and I was able to resolve them from this book. I owe you guys a huge thanks for the help by letting us have this book.


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## eyedoc

I dont know what rock I have been living under, but it has taken until now to see this. All I can say is EXCELLENT job!!!


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## NoahAU

Amazing guide! Thank you so much for the hard work.


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## jasonposs

thanks for the info..i got more from reading this than i picked up in 7 years on a target range and pro shop..trully awesome guide.thanks again


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## DesertCubster

Thanks NutsandBolts! I am new to the forums as a couple of guys helped me out at Ben Avery with my sight. Also with some tips on how I was releasing. I look forward to learning from everyone!


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## nuts&bolts

Just found out about a typo on pages 6-7 and 6-8.

When trying out MODIFIED french tuning,
and shooting at 6 feet away from a vertical line on the target face...(strip of duct tape in the picture),
if you MISS LEFT, move the pins to the LEFT (gang pin adjustment).

If you MISS RIGHT, move the pins to the RIGHT (gang pin adjustment).

Here are the two replacement pages.


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## peace

Thanks for the corrections, that came at just the right time to point out the French Tuning stuff as that makes a whole lot of sense to me, and I can use that right now.


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## patch1010

Thank you for the guide, i will share it with my 4-H kids.


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## ohiobullseye

Wow! Lots of info here and its free! Thanks, great job.


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## mtelkkiller

Thank you for this post!


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## SARASR

Great Job! Thanks for sharing


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## Jerem41

I can not say enough how thankful I am. I took on the task of totally retuning my bow. New strings and everything. It has been a huge task, at least for me. But I can say that I would be totally lost without your great guide. I learned what tools I need, like bow press, serving tools, materials, and everything. I have learned how to put on strings, find nock point and tie it in. I learned to put a d-loop in and place serving were the strign stop it. I learned to paper tune and adjust the bow to what I see. I have corrected my draw and archor point. It has been a total revamp. I have a long way to go, exspecially with hunting season right around the corner. Thank you again and please, if you ever come out with a hard cover or update to the book. I WANT IT. Willing to pay alot for it. Thank you agian.


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## WMDTalley

I just ran across this thread for the first time and want to thank you for all of the time and effort you took in putting this together. Outstanding work and great information that is truly appreciated.


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## nuts&bolts

You are all very welcome. Feel free to send copies onto your friends.


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## Madlaz

Best thread ever on AT Alan you are absolutely super the way you can explain things so any one can understand you have an amazing talent with words you would have been the worlds greatest school teacher if that would have been your profession .


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## sambo.

nuts&bolts said:


> No worries.
> BowtechCDR is my editor,
> and he created the first version from the thread,
> into book format.
> 
> Distribution is for free.
> Most of the stuff is from the "New to Bowtuning. Looking for Guidelines" thread.
> I added some more stuff.
> 
> We have been distributing to AT members for free,
> and as I add more stuff,
> then BowtechCDR sends out the latest version,
> to all prior folks, for free.
> 
> A book by the folks of AT,
> for the folks of AT,
> of the folks of AT.
> 
> No worries.


Sir, you are a gentleman and a scholar.
Many thanks for your time and knowledge, it's of great benefit to n00bs like myself.


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## jsimard

Wow just want to say nuts and bolts you are a class act. Going foreward in my life that info will be mine and my kids archery bible thank you so much.


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## Hook29

Just wanted to say thank you for such an awesome manual! Not to mention the time it took putting it together! It is truly appreciated!!


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## cajun boy

*help with my sons bow*

we just cranked my sons bow up from 50 lb. t 65 lb. and he is shooting 250 grain arrows, are these arrows heavy enough for 65 lb. draw weight? thanks in advance for any help.


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## txshephe

Thanks lots of Help.


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## nuts&bolts

cajun boy said:


> we just cranked my sons bow up from 50 lb. t 65 lb. and he is shooting 250 grain arrows, are these arrows heavy enough for 65 lb. draw weight? thanks in advance for any help.


Need ALL the details.

what brand of bow?...Hoyt?...Mathews?...Bowtech?...Parker?...Martin?

what model of bow?...Trykon?...Conquest?....Bengal?....Leopard?

what is the draw length setting on the bow?...24-inches?....25.5-inches?....27.5-inches?

what brand of arrow?...Carbon Express?....Easton?.....GoldTip?

what model of arrow?...Maxima 250?....Jazz 1716?....Platinum Plus XX75 2013?....XT Hunter 5575?

what stiffness rating of arrow?...250 rating e.g. Maxima 250....400 rating e.g. Easton Redline 400...if you don't know, I can figure it out from the model no.

what brand and length of vanes or feathers? VaneTec 3.0-inch vanes?....Gateway 2.5-inch feathers?....Blazer vanes (2-inches)?
If I know the brand and length of vanes, I can figure out the weight of the vanes or feathers

what is the point weight in the front of the arrow? 100 grains? 125 grains? 90 grains? 75 grains?

when you measure the length of JUST the arrow shaft...what is this length accurate to 1/16th inch?
(do not measure the point length...do not measure the nock length)


Is this a screw in field point on the arrow?
If this is a screw in field point, I add in the weight of the insert to the total arrow weight.

Is this a glue in target point on the arrow?


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## dcparadise

I am pretty new to Archery. I shot when I was a kid with my dad and recently purchased me a new compound. This is a great guide for anyone to read to help you become a better shot. Thanks for the information.


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## colo_dually

I really appreciate the effort that went into this manual. :thumb:

I'm working now to get back into the sport, with more information than I did the first time, and I'll be teaching the wife while I'm at it. We'll start shopping for bows in the next couple of weeks, and this will be studied in depth before we head out. It will also save me a lot of trouble asking a questions and cluttering the threads here at AT.

Much Ablidged.


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## gje64

This is absolutely AWESOME... I've been scouring the internet looking for something like this for some time now. Just sent an e-mail request for updates, and cannot say how 
much it is appreciated... This is something my son, grandsons and myself will truly enjoy, and benefit from. 
THANKS!!!


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## ArtV

How different is tuning a compound from tuning a recure?
Art


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## nuts&bolts

ArtV said:


> How different is tuning a compound from tuning a recure?
> Art


Art, send me a pm message with your email address
and I can send you a pdf file,
with recurve bow specific tuning information.


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## ravenbow

Nuts & Bolts,

I would like to thank you for sharing your wealth of Archery knowledge with us. I can tell you I thoroughly enjoy shooting arrows and your information translates into archery success for me. Brings a big smile to my face.

All the best to you.

George


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## chaos93

Absolutely incredible this is exactly what I need just starting out!!


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## Edsel

nuts&bolts said:


> Art, send me a pm message with your email address
> and I can send you a pdf file,
> with recurve bow specific tuning information.


Could you make this available on ArcheryTalk?

I read through your manual, it was pretty good :thumbs_up


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## nuts&bolts

Edsel said:


> Could you make this available on ArcheryTalk?
> 
> I read through your manual, it was pretty good :thumbs_up


The recurve version is only 30 pages, but it does have a LOT of pictures.
Not nearly as polished as the "guide".


Send me a pm message, with your email address
and I can send the recurve version to you.


----------



## Edsel

PM sent, thanks...


----------



## Ahmed Khan

Just to echoe what the folks are saying...great job putting it all together


----------



## Ahmed Khan

sniperjim said:


> Tim, I have emailed a bunch of people with the First edition and I will try over the next couple of days to compile a list of emails for you to send the update too. Didn't intend to jack your distribution, I just posted once a while ago that I had a guide from N&B and the requests came in pretty steady. Great job on the follow threw. Nice to see Flea posting again!!!


Hey Jim, that's a super avatar image you have, where did you find it?


----------



## D-TRAIN

Is there an updated version as of late? The one I have is split in 2 sections with lots of slightly confusing overlap. I'm on the email list, but haven't gotten an update in a long time. Thanks!


----------



## nuts&bolts

D-TRAIN said:


> Is there an updated version as of late? The one I have is split in 2 sections with lots of slightly confusing overlap. I'm on the email list, but haven't gotten an update in a long time. Thanks!


http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf

If you goto page 1 of this thread,
you will find the latest version,
hosted by ArcheryTalk.

The latest version should be a single pdf file,
with 159 pages.


----------



## ohiorobp

Soooooooo......how does one get a printed copy of this. But I'm thinking that I could print off some high quality versions and tape bind them or put them in a 1/2 binder and send them to the author to be be sold to make up some of his time and effort. Whom ever it needs to be just pm. just a thought. I would buy one and I'm sure others would to.


----------



## D-TRAIN

nuts&bolts said:


> http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf
> 
> If you goto page 1 of this thread,
> you will find the latest version,
> hosted by ArcheryTalk.
> 
> The latest version should be a single pdf file,
> with 159 pages.


Excellent! Thanks Nuts!


----------



## nuts&bolts

ohiorobp said:


> Soooooooo......how does one get a printed copy of this. But I'm thinking that I could print off some high quality versions and tape bind them or put them in a 1/2 binder and send them to the author to be be sold to make up some of his time and effort. Whom ever it needs to be just pm. just a thought. I would buy one and I'm sure others would to.


The "guide" is still a draft. The photo glossary is unfinished.
As folks come up with more questions, sections will continue to be added.


----------



## ohiorobp

Well, you just let me know when your ready and ill send you some samples.


----------



## straight2it

This pretty much answers almost all the general archer forum questionS!


----------



## archer32

just so i can find this again


----------



## redman

great info i hope they come out with a book .


----------



## Ghost23

Great thread!


----------



## 270mag

Nuts&Bolts I sent you a PM but your inbox is full.


----------



## 2BMX

Nuts&bolts, thanks for sharing this guide to us..


----------



## bardman

Great stuff right there. I have found myself reading that entire sticky. Again thank you for your work.


----------



## BowhunterCliffy

nuts&bolts said:


> No worries.
> BowtechCDR is my editor,
> and he created the first version from the thread,
> into book format.
> 
> Distribution is for free.
> Most of the stuff is from the "New to Bowtuning. Looking for Guidelines" thread.
> I added some more stuff.
> 
> We have been distributing to AT members for free,
> and as I add more stuff,
> then BowtechCDR sends out the latest version,
> to all prior folks, for free.
> 
> A book by the folks of AT,
> for the folks of AT,
> of the folks of AT.
> 
> No worries.


thanks for the great info. very informative!


----------



## Speed44

A huge Thank you to Nuts&Bolts. Exactly what I have been searching for, a must have. Thank you!


----------



## beau1234

iukiuki


----------



## RJM91

As someone looking to get into archery this will be very helpful. Thank you very much!


----------



## T.Murphy4

This is awesome, thanks so much. I can't stop reading it, so much insightful information.


----------



## PAdude

Thanks!!!!! Great info.


----------



## perrys no peep

*Thank you...*

So much to learn here....I meet many new archer's and will recommend this info to them all,Great stuff


----------



## intheshaw

As someone just getting into archery, I say Thanks!


----------



## N7XW

I have to add my 'Thank You!' for all the work that went into putting this together. I'm going to print it and start studying.

Is the link in the first post still the current version? It's dated Dec. 7, 2010. Thanks again!


----------



## ILOVE3D

Another just so I can find it again, if I had found this earlier I wouldn't have asked several questions on here that I usually got the answer from Nuts and Bolts anyway. Thanks again.


----------



## threetoe

Speed44 said:


> A huge Thank you to Nuts&Bolts. Exactly what I have been searching for, a must have. Thank you!


N&B...is the best.

Thanks

Bill


----------



## thenson

Greetings Alan... I've been away from this site for a long time and I just saved a copy of your book. I was one of many encouraging you to write this for several years...

Looking forward to studying it...

thenson


----------



## Neuralgia

Is he link on the first post is updated? I mean, the newest version?

When is the printed version coming out?


----------



## nuts&bolts

Neuralgia said:


> Is he link on the first post is updated? I mean, the newest version?
> 
> When is the printed version coming out?


No printed version.
Cost would be too high.

With ArcheryTalk providing the hosting, of the pdf version,
folks can download and view online, for no charge.

The linked version has up to Chapter 12 - Back Tension.

This is the most current version.

I might write some more pages about Back Tension,
and I have some ideas about training methods for "back tension",
since there still seems to be some confusion about how to shoot a hinge release.

A BIG thank you to ArcheryTalk for providing the server space for the "guide".


----------



## Neuralgia

Thanks for the Quick Reply.

Just a suggestion.

You could add DATES or VERSION NUMBER to the file, so we can all know what version of the pdf file we have.

I already had al old one, that´s why I asked.

Dan from Costa Rica


----------



## Ghost23

This is at the top of my "Useful Archery Info." file! It just can't be explained any better and less confusing than how nuts&bolts has. I break down my info files into categories such as bows: setup>tuning>and so on. Arrows: Types>selecting>arrow making>etc. Nuts & Bolts of Archery fits into most of these categories. I have it printed out for a quick reference and it really does come in handy! 

Thank you nuts&bolts for the great FREE info, it is appreciated by all


----------



## slimshady2

Although I am new to target archery, I love the tips in Nuts & Bolts for the chapter on paper tuning especially.


----------



## smokepole14

:thumbs_up


----------



## stuschu

Very impressed with all the details, excellent resource!


----------



## BowTechCDR

Hi everyone,

I sent out a bunch of copies this morning.

Please remember to include an email address to which a large (3mb) file can be sent when requesting your copy of The Nuts & Bolts of Archery.

This last round of emails saw quite a few undeliverable returns AND I received more than a few PMs with no email address contained within.

Thanks!

Tim (a.k.a BowTechCDR)


----------



## Blue Tick

BowTechCDR said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I sent out a bunch of copies this morning.
> 
> Please remember to include an email address to which a large (3mb) file can be sent when requesting your copy of The Nuts & Bolts of Archery.
> 
> This last round of emails saw quite a few undeliverable returns AND I received more than a few PMs with no email address contained within.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Tim (a.k.a BowTechCDR)


Is the most current version linked here? I have received a few in the past and want to make sure I have the most current copy available. Great stuff here and I really appreciate it. Let me know if I need to send my email address to you for the most current update.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Blue Tick said:


> Is the most current version linked here? I have received a few in the past and want to make sure I have the most current copy available. Great stuff here and I really appreciate it. Let me know if I need to send my email address to you for the most current update.


Yes,
current version goes up to Chapter 12 (Back Tension)
and is linked on page 1.


----------



## nuts&bolts

r43dscard said:


> It is cool, but where can I buy it?


No need to purchase.

Goto page 1 of this thread,
and you can download the FREE pdf file.

150+ pages.

LOTS and LOTS of pictures.


----------



## r43dscard

Thanks, you are really friendly!


----------



## rdtj

Awesome info!


----------



## Christopher67

*Great Stuff, thank you!* :thumb:


----------



## walterwhite26

I'm new to the forums and archery,this is exactly what I was looking for THANKS!


----------



## polarishunter0

Just read it cover to cover. That is phenomenal. I am an average archer (maybe less) and this gave me some really neat ideas to make sure my kids are better than I am regarding form, setup, and maintenance.


----------



## digikuo

Great book and very informative. Thank you.


----------



## mtvdklr

Noooooo why did i open this. Ive been fine (ignorant) for years. Now im overwhelmed lol, & i feel me an my needs so much more. Heck i dont even know if its right for me now. Even though i love it. But in all seriousness thanks so much for putting so much information at my fingertips!


----------



## tc3144

Very good info!!! And like many others I wish I'd had this from the beginning!! Old habits sure are hard to break!!! Thanks for all the help!

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk


----------



## bruin1951

I want to thank everyone who helped me with my question, you have no idea how much this has help me.
Thank you
Bob


----------



## perrys no peep

^^^


----------



## Van Slam

Is it in book form yet?


----------



## nuts&bolts

Van Slam said:


> Is it in book form yet?


Sorry, no.
Cost for 150+ pages in color would be ridiculously high.

With a pdf,
folks can print whatever chapters they need.

Besides, the picture glossary is still unfinished.
Might need to add a chapter on advanced bareshaft tuning/yoke cable adjusting.


----------



## CaveTroll

Brilliant post!, Very well written with tons of info, great or a beginner like myself. Many thanks indeed for the goldmine of a pdf!!!!!!!!!!!!
:darkbeer:


----------



## mrchaos102

12-8 is as far as it goes right?


----------



## nuts&bolts

mrchaos102 said:


> 12-8 is as far as it goes right?


Yes.

page 12-8 is the last page, for now.

159 pages in total.


----------



## Christopher67

Awesome! :thumb:


----------



## DeerHuntin79923

Very nice! Thanks!


----------



## Kirk62

*Recurve bow*

A former neighbor had a recurve bow custom made by a gentleman I believe in the northern Wisconsin or Upper Michigan area that when drawn back had a 10% drop off in the draw. Would any one have any information on this? Looking for more information about this custom made recurve bow. 



AT News said:


> One of our users "nuts&bolts" put together this pdf called "The Nuts & Bolts of Archery. A Guide to Tuning and Shooting Compound Bows". Check it out!
> 
> At News
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf


----------



## nuts&bolts

Kirk62 said:


> A former neighbor had a recurve bow custom made by a gentleman I believe in the northern Wisconsin or Upper Michigan area that when drawn back had a 10% drop off in the draw. Would any one have any information on this? Looking for more information about this custom made recurve bow.


Hello Kirk62:

Do you have a picture of this bow?

Generally speaking,
a true recurve bow does not reduce the weight on the fingers,
as you pull back to your anchor.

Are you thinking the Martin Kam Act?

http://www.archeryhistory.com/compounds/kamactpics/kamact52.jpg


----------



## alanankris1019

Thanks


----------



## BowTechCDR

Folks,
I have added email addresses for future updates and will send most recent copies as soon as I can.

Cheers!


----------



## bginvestor

nuts&bolts said:


> No printed version.
> Cost would be too high.
> 
> With ArcheryTalk providing the hosting, of the pdf version,
> folks can download and view online, for no charge.
> 
> The linked version has up to Chapter 12 - Back Tension.
> 
> This is the most current version.
> 
> I might write some more pages about Back Tension,
> and I have some ideas about training methods for "back tension",
> since there still seems to be some confusion about how to shoot a hinge release.
> 
> A BIG thank you to ArcheryTalk for providing the server space for the "guide".


My father is retired and he writes several books. He has found some website that will print books on demand and cost is very reasonable!

He sells printed books for around $10 to $15 bucks and makes profit of course.

Just a thought..


----------



## xcmandan

Hey Guys and Gals, Does anyone have an opinion on weather it would be better to chance from a wisker bisquit to a fall away rest. Really thinking of changing but not sure???? Help


----------



## nuts&bolts

xcmandan said:


> Hey Guys and Gals, Does anyone have an opinion on weather it would be better to chance from a wisker bisquit to a fall away rest. Really thinking of changing but not sure???? Help


Whisker biscuit is dead easy to setup.

Fall away takes more effort/skill to setup, but can provide superior results....IF installed and tuned correctly.


----------



## tiuser

Like many have already said, Thank you for this guide. 

sent a pm with my email.


----------



## fishdoc

Thanks. This is an awsome Guide. Very Conscise.


----------



## nicoga3000

I love things like this - not only is it informative, but it's fun to read! I know, fun might not be the first word that comes to mind for some, but I love reading about and learning about my hobbies. Very cool, thanks for this!


----------



## Fury90flier

Great guide...

I understand that there are a few more chapters...can anyone forward them to me? I've sent my e-mail address but haven't heard anything.


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-20*



Fury90flier said:


> Great guide...
> 
> I understand that there are a few more chapters...can anyone forward them to me? I've sent my e-mail address but haven't heard anything.


Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-20


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-21*

Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-21


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-22*

Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-22


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-23*

Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-23


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-24*

Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-24


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-25*

Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-25


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-26*

Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-26


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-27*

Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-27


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-28*

Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-28


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-29*

Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-29


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-30*

Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-30


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-31*

Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-31


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-32*

Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-32


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-33*

Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-33


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-34*

Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-34


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-35*

Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-35


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-36*

Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-36


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Nuts&Bolts Guide...NEW STUFF...New Page 5-37*

Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION...
added more pages to Chapter 5

new page 5-37....

this is the LAST page for the Jul 21 2012 NEW EDITION.....


now, 
gotta work on the next new stuff version.


----------



## Fury90flier

Thanks for the updates....

Were there anymore chapters added? The last chapter I have is 12.... It's dated 12/07/2010


----------



## nuts&bolts

Fury90flier said:


> Thanks for the updates....
> 
> Were there anymore chapters added? The last chapter I have is 12.... It's dated 12/07/2010


That's correct.

Page 1 has the 12 chapters.

Just added pages 5-20 through 5-37
to Chapter 5...(new stuff Jul 21 2012).


----------



## nuts&bolts

Goto page 1 for the basic pdf file (Nuts&Bolts Guide to Shooting and Tuning Compound Bows)
with the 15 chapters.

Then,
goto page 7 of this thread, and see
POST #190 through POST # 207
for the new, extra pages for Chapter 5..Jul 12 2012 edition....

....STEPS TO TUNING A BOW....

NEW PAGE Chapter 5-20 is POST #190.
NEW PAGE Chapter 5-21 is POST #191.
NEW PAGE Chapter 5-22 is POST #192.
NEW PAGE Chapter 5-23 is POST #193.
NEW PAGE Chapter 5-24 is POST #194.
NEW PAGE Chapter 5-25 is POST #195.

NEW PAGE Chapter 5-26 is POST #196.
NEW PAGE Chapter 5-27 is POST #197.
NEW PAGE Chapter 5-28 is POST #198.
NEW PAGE Chapter 5-29 is POST #199.
NEW PAGE Chapter 5-30 is POST #200.

NEW PAGE Chapter 5-30 is POST #201.
NEW PAGE Chapter 5-31 is POST #202.
NEW PAGE Chapter 5-32 is POST #203.
NEW PAGE Chapter 5-33 is POST #204.
NEW PAGE Chapter 5-34 is POST #205.

NEW PAGE Chapter 5-35 is POST #206.
NEW PAGE Chapter 5-36 is POST #207.


----------



## Fury90flier

Ok, I'm either missing something or I'm dense....You mention Page 1 has 15 chapters but in a previous post you mention 12 chapters. 

where do the chapters 13-15 come from?


----------



## nuts&bolts

Fury90flier said:


> Ok, I'm either missing something or I'm dense....You mention Page 1 has 15 chapters but in a previous post you mention 12 chapters.
> 
> where do the chapters 13-15 come from?


SORRY.

ONLY 12 CHAPTERS.
Back Tension is the last chapter of the Guide.

The Jul 12 2012 NEW STUFF
are extra pages at the tail end of Chapter 5.


----------



## nuts&bolts

nuts&bolts said:


> Goto page 1 for the basic pdf file (Nuts&Bolts Guide to Shooting and Tuning Compound Bows)
> with the 15 chapters.....sorry, ONLY 12 CHAPTERS in the original pdf file.
> 
> Then,
> goto page 7 of this thread, and see
> POST #190 through POST # 207
> for the new, extra pages for Chapter 5..Jul 12 2012 edition....
> 
> ....STEPS TO TUNING A BOW....
> 
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-20 is POST #190.
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-21 is POST #191.
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-22 is POST #192.
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-23 is POST #193.
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-24 is POST #194.
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-25 is POST #195.
> 
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-26 is POST #196.
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-27 is POST #197.
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-28 is POST #198.
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-29 is POST #199.
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-30 is POST #200.
> 
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-30 is POST #201.
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-31 is POST #202.
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-32 is POST #203.
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-33 is POST #204.
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-34 is POST #205.
> 
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-35 is POST #206.
> NEW PAGE Chapter 5-36 is POST #207.




sorry, ONLY 12 CHAPTERS in the original pdf file.


----------



## Milesp1101

Thanks again for keeping this updated, it is a great guide.


----------



## Sam8

Wow, thanks for sharing. Wealth of knowledge. I wish I would have had something like this when I started out.


----------



## quercus

Best comprehensive archery guide i have ever seen. Well Done!


----------



## Blueshadow

As a new archer, this is exactly what I have been looking for...great resource!


----------



## TBBOWHUNTING

trying to find out what a good trail cam is to buy i have 4 wildgame ir4 cams but there all about 1 year old and 2 are not working and ither to are working when they want what do you guys think????


----------



## Fortyneck

TBBOWHUNTING said:


> trying to find out what a good trail cam is to buy i have 4 wildgame ir4 cams but there all about 1 year old and 2 are not working and ither to are working when they want what do you guys think????


PM sent.


----------



## TBBOWHUNTING

opps 1st time poster here lol


----------



## Neuralgia

Nuts, or some one who can rearrange the first post, you can find the first file MERGED with Chapter 5-20 to 5-37 (First 12 Chapters from Dec 2010, plus the updates of July 2012)

So everything is arranged in only ONE file:

Hope you enjoy (if new chapters are born, just let me know, I can Merge and re arrange pdf file really easy).

The Nuts & Bolts Of Archery Sept 2012 (Neuralgia merge)

*PS: If you do not have a Dropbox account, please sign in through this link*: Dropbox sign up link (It's not necessary to have one, but trust me, dropbox is great, and you can help me get more space on my account)

Dan from Costa Rica


----------



## mdarton

DIAGNOSIS NIGHT

Last few years I have been shooting expandables, unable to get fixed heads to group. Just put on a new set of strings from Deezlin (Little Jon), highly recommended, thanks Philip.

Started out warming up at 20, holding about an inch. After warming up I bare shafted, starting out at 5 yds. and ending up at 15. Tried to stay close to N&B's program.

Bare shafts kept moving further to the left, with tail right as I moved back in distance.

Out of curiosity, shot a fixed blade head at 15. Point of impact? Left.

Will do some yoke twistin or untwistin tomorrow.

Thanks Bolts!


----------



## greatthosu

This is some Great info.Thanks.


----------



## Edsel

Does in incorporate the "Kitchen Sink" tuning method?

Again, thanks in advance.


----------



## Edsel

Just as Written Language has led to the advancement of Civilization, text in any field - edited, revised, appended over time - benefits far more people than any corrupted, degraded word - of - mouth dogma.

I really appreciate the existence of this manual.


----------



## GRIZZLEY

This is actually a very good guide , i myself learned a little.


----------



## WaitingGame

Thanks to all who made this possible.I printed all of it and will study.


----------



## Beentown

A thread/sticky with just the "Kitchen Sink Method" would be nice for reference and sharing.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Beentown said:


> A thread/sticky with just the "Kitchen Sink Method" would be nice for reference and sharing.


Here is a nice version of my Kitchen Sink Method.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1844443&highlight=tuning

Thread by Neuralgia.
Title = "Hot to tune in bow, Internet edition".

See Post #5 for my Kitchen Sink Tuning Method.


Then, see Post #15 for

Stage II = Creep Tuning.

As usual,
lots of pictures.


----------



## fightingspurs

N&B Thank You for such a GREAT guide.. Awesome knowledge.


----------



## Mnementh24

mark for later


----------



## MFCEO

thanks for this


----------



## audreyhudges

Thanks for giving this thread to us and you shared it to help others. Just like me I don't have an idea about this. I have learned from this thread and I am happy for this.


----------



## Lazagna

Is there a nuts and bolts for archery that is not geared towards compounds, but more towards recurves?


----------



## nuts&bolts

Lazagna said:


> Is there a nuts and bolts for archery that is not geared towards compounds, but more towards recurves?


I have a much smaller guide for recurve.

Send me a note with your email address
and I can send it to you.

Still in rough draft form.
Has lots of pictures.


----------



## Lazagna

PM Sent.

thanks so much. I'm just trying to get as much information as possible before I go out and purchase a bow, but I know it's going to be a recurve and not a compound.

thanks.


----------



## Jette

This is such great information! Nuts&Bolts is so helpful and knolagable. Thanks for the Pdf nuts&bolts


----------



## Uhfradarwill

Fantastic work N&B. I really got a lot out of your work. Tnx!!


----------



## Sneezy

nuts&bolts said:


> No worries.
> BowtechCDR is my editor,
> and he created the first version from the thread,
> into book format.
> 
> Distribution is for free.
> Most of the stuff is from the "New to Bowtuning. Looking for Guidelines" thread.
> I added some more stuff.
> 
> We have been distributing to AT members for free,
> and as I add more stuff,
> then BowtechCDR sends out the latest version,
> to all prior folks, for free.
> 
> A book by the folks of AT,
> for the folks of AT,
> of the folks of AT.
> 
> No worries.


how can i purchase (or make a donation to the cause because i know compiling all that info and making it into a usable format is costly and time consuming) because id surely love to have a the latest copy.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Sneezy said:


> how can i purchase (or make a donation to the cause because i know compiling all that info and making it into a usable format is costly and time consuming) because id surely love to have a the latest copy.


This is the latest copy.

No worries.

I have some other posts,
sprinkled throughout AT...that are not part of the "guide".

These posts have been fairly popular.

BARESHAFT TUNING RESULTS by wolbear....amazing...up to 18 pages now.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1746136&highlight=bareshaft


KITCHEN SINK TUNING...a step by step recipe...see POST #5 in this thread.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1844443&highlight=tuning


CREEP TUNING....a step by step recipe...see POST #15 same thread.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1844443&highlight=tuning


----------



## hdracer

Hey, N&B. Quick question on bareshaft tuning. 

Do you bareshaft tune with or with stabs, v-bars, etc? Is there a difference in tuning with or without them?

Thanks.


----------



## nuts&bolts

hdracer said:


> Hey, N&B. Quick question on bareshaft tuning.
> 
> Do you bareshaft tune with or with stabs, v-bars, etc? Is there a difference in tuning with or without them?
> 
> Thanks.


Shoot at least 2 bareshafts,
to see if the 2 bareshafts impact at the same point of impact,
using your ENTIRE shooting system,
with everything installed.

If the bareshafts are smacking together, same point of impact...

but,
the bareshafts are not hitting with your fletched arrows...

well,
you can read this thread,
with over 18 pages of responses.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1746136&highlight=bareshaft


----------



## Gunpowder

I read about clairifiers but nothing about Verifiers?


----------



## nuts&bolts

Gunpowder said:


> I read about clairifiers but nothing about Verifiers?


Clarifier when used with a scope lens,
will clear up your image of the target...
so the 20 yard target image gets MORE in focus,
when using say a 4X or 6X or 8X lens.

The 4X lens,
if folks use a clarifier insert for the peep sight,
the LOW strength clarifier usually works quite well.

Some folks can get away with the 4X lens, and a tiny peep sight
and use no clarifier insert.

The MEDIUM strength clarifier works for most folks with the 6X lens.


So,
a VERIFIER is intended for use with a PIN SIGHT,
and
works like reading glasses,
so the IMAGE of your PINS gets more in focus...
and
the VERIFIER does ZERO for long range image sharpening.

So,
if your LONG distance vision is GOOD,
but,
your close range image of your pins is FUZZY...

then,
you find the correct VERIFIER peep sight insert,
to help you with close range focus work of your PIN SIGHT.


----------



## Gunpowder

nuts&bolts said:


> ,
> if your LONG distance vision is GOOD,
> but,
> your close range image of your pins is FUZZY...
> 
> then,
> you find the correct VERIFIER peep sight insert,
> to help you with close range focus work of your PIN SIGHT.


Ya, that is what happens when you are in your 40's. I also notice that while shooting 5-spot (using pin sight) the pin is blurry and by end of evening even the target is blurry. I think my eyes are just getting too much of a workout trying to get the pins in focus. Even the drive home was kinda blurry. Eye doctor says my eyes are good though and no issue with my diabetes so far.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Gunpowder said:


> Ya, that is what happens when you are in your 40's. I also notice that while shooting 5-spot (using pin sight) the pin is blurry and by end of evening even the target is blurry. I think my eyes are just getting too much of a workout trying to get the pins in focus. Even the drive home was kinda blurry. Eye doctor says my eyes are good though and no issue with my diabetes so far.


Have you tried the LP light?
You can try different colors for your fiber optics.
Then, with a particular color (have you tried blue fiber optic?)
and
try different light intensity....
you may get your pins more in focus.


----------



## Gunpowder

nuts&bolts said:


> Have you tried the LP light?
> .


Actually saw it for the first time last week at the league. 3 were using them. I was having issues with the brightness of my pins against the target and they showed me the LP. Not sure how I missed that light with the reading I have done over time.

Not sure my next step is a verifier or a new sight and an LP light.


----------



## IllinoisBamBam

What a great read I have started at the beginning and made it to 7-2 before having to stop for bed as I must work at 6am. I will continue later. Thanks to AT and Nuts&Bolts for posting and sharing this. GREAT WORK!!!


----------



## MichaelGentry

whats the lattest verion and how can i get it


----------



## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> whats the lattest verion and how can i get it





Neuralgia said:


> Nuts, or some one who can rearrange the first post, you can find the first file MERGED with Chapter 5-20 to 5-37 (First 12 Chapters from Dec 2010, plus the updates of July 2012)
> 
> So everything is arranged in only ONE file:
> 
> Hope you enjoy (if new chapters are born, just let me know, I can Merge and re arrange pdf file really easy).
> 
> The Nuts & Bolts Of Archery Sept 2012 (Neuralgia merge)
> 
> *PS: If you do not have a Dropbox account, please sign in through this link*: Dropbox sign up link (It's not necessary to have one, but trust me, dropbox is great, and you can help me get more space on my account)
> 
> Dan from Costa Rica



Here is the latest version,
with the 2012 update.

Click the link for the 
"Neuralgia merge".


----------



## kdemkey

Hey nuts and bolts.. I just purchased a helium. I'm going to go ahead and try the iq bow sight. The qad ultra rest.. Now just deciding what arrows.. I used the Easton fmjs 340s with my z7 and I liked them heavy arrow but impact was good.. By the way I use the 100 grain rage heads... I was wondering what if I moved to bloodsport arrows.. I'm thinking a 350 spine. By the way my draw is 29 and will be shooting around #70.. The bloodsport arrows just came put with some new ones.. They have a new insert. It's glue less and some other ad ons...

http://www.gomuddy.com/

Do you think the 350 spine is good for my set up?


----------



## nuts&bolts

kdemkey said:


> Hey nuts and bolts.. I just purchased a helium. I'm going to go ahead and try the iq bow sight. The qad ultra rest.. Now just deciding what arrows.. I used the Easton fmjs 340s with my z7 and I liked them heavy arrow but impact was good.. By the way I use the 100 grain rage heads... I was wondering what if I moved to bloodsport arrows.. I'm thinking a 350 spine. By the way my draw is 29 and will be shooting around #70.. The bloodsport arrows just came put with some new ones.. They have a new insert. It's glue less and some other ad ons...
> 
> http://www.gomuddy.com/
> 
> Do you think the 350 spine is good for my set up?


You didn't say which Bloodsport arrow,
so I figured the HT1.

350 is too weak.
300 is too stiff.

So,
the 300 spine HT1,
Blazer vanes
100 grain broadhead

Carbon to Carbon tube length = 30.00-inches
sooo,
END of SHAFT to END of Nock Groove = 30.5-inches.

125 grain heads will also work quite nicely.


----------



## kdemkey

Is actually the new arrows they have coming out this year.. In the front page of the website. They show them. I believe they only.come in 350.. So should I just stay with the 340 fmj?

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2


----------



## nuts&bolts

kdemkey said:


> Is actually the new arrows they have coming out this year.. In the front page of the website. They show them. I believe they only.come in 350.. So should I just stay with the 340 fmj?
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2


Drop the draw weight,
until the 350 spine arrows tune for you.

At 70 lbs,
the arrows MIGHT behave a little weak for you (arrow groups get larger than usual).


----------



## kdemkey

Ok I think I have found my set up. Using different arrows then mentioned above..here is thenew set up

Mathews helium 29" draw 70lbs
Easton flatline 340s-8.2gr/in
Nock-tgb lighted-24gr
Blazer vanes-5gr
Rage broadheads-100 gr
Easton microlite insert-10gr

Arrow weight-378.6
Foc-9.52%
FPS-304.2
Ke-77.81

Tell me what you think?


----------



## nuts&bolts

kdemkey said:


> Ok I think I have found my set up. Using different arrows then mentioned above..here is thenew set up
> 
> Mathews helium 29" draw 70lbs
> Easton flatline 340s-8.2gr/in
> Nock-tgb lighted-24gr
> Blazer vanes-5gr
> Rage broadheads-100 gr
> Easton microlite insert-10gr
> 
> Arrow weight-378.6
> Foc-9.52%
> FPS-304.2
> Ke-77.81
> 
> Tell me what you think?


Smells perfect.

How's it shooting for you?


----------



## kdemkey

I haven't even shot it yet lol waiting for arrows to get here. I just figured all them numbers out from calculators. I will be taking the bow to a pro shop to get tuned. Should I have them bare shaft tune it first? Or super tune? 

I want to watch someone do it first so I can eventually do it myself.


----------



## huntnutsbro

Nuts & bolts, i just picked up a new breed genetix, i did the modified french tuning today. It groups crazy tight with 3 fletched and 2 bare shafts. Actually broke a nock with a bare. LoL, my thing is, this bow has no yoke. And my site pin is left of my arrow shaft when looking at it from the rear. Should i be concerned with this? Since i cant yoke tune, what do you suggest? The arrows look like lazer beams from 20 yards to me. 

My setup is:
Genetix at 28.5" and 72 pounds. 
Harvest time ht2 .300 arrows cut to 28.5" carbon to carbon.
Razor feathers, no wrap. Bohning nocks. 100 gt points. Total weight 388gr.

Its shooting 305-306 fps. 

Timing is dead on. it has dual drawstops, that i adjusted as per kyle of new breed, draw length feels perfect. 

Anything else i can do? Or should i just shoot it? 

According to ontarget2 spine is perfect.


----------



## nuts&bolts

kdemkey said:


> I haven't even shot it yet lol waiting for arrows to get here. I just figured all them numbers out from calculators. I will be taking the bow to a pro shop to get tuned. Should I have them bare shaft tune it first? Or super tune?
> 
> I want to watch someone do it first so I can eventually do it myself.


A shop can get the bow into factory spec.

YOU have to do the bareshaft tune,
cuz,
bareshaft tuning is designed to show if the bow FITS the shooter.

If the bow DL is too long for YOU...then, bareshaft tuning will show you.

So,
if the pro shop will spend the HOURS working with you
to micro-tune YOUR draw length,
by having YOU do bareshaft tuning..

by having the pro shop staff watch YOU go through bareshaft tuning...

then,
after the absolute PERFECT draw length is established..

then,
sure,
the "super tuning" can be done,
with you there or not.


----------



## huntnutsbro

huntnutsbro said:


> Nuts & bolts, i just picked up a new breed genetix, i did the modified french tuning today. It groups crazy tight with 3 fletched and 2 bare shafts. Actually broke a nock with a bare. LoL, my thing is, this bow has no yoke. And my site pin is left of my arrow shaft when looking at it from the rear. Should i be concerned with this? Since i cant yoke tune, what do you suggest? The arrows look like lazer beams from 20 yards to me.
> 
> My setup is:
> Genetix at 28.5" and 72 pounds.
> Harvest time ht2 .300 arrows cut to 28.5" carbon to carbon.
> Razor feathers, no wrap. Bohning nocks. 100 gt points. Total weight 388gr.
> 
> Its shooting 305-306 fps.
> 
> Timing is dead on. it has dual drawstops, that i adjusted as per kyle of new breed, draw length feels perfect.
> 
> Anything else i can do? Or should i just shoot it?
> 
> According to ontarget2 spine is perfect.



Any input nuts&bolts? Thanks.


----------



## nuts&bolts

huntnutsbro said:


> Any input nuts&bolts? Thanks.


How are your arrow groups at 60 yards?

Sine there are no yoke cables,
then we can micro-tune the draw length,
to tighten up the horizontal spread for arrow groups.

So, how wide are your 20 yard groups?
So, how wide are your 60 yard groups?


----------



## huntnutsbro

Well, today was the day i was going to shoot longer yardage, but its pouring! LoL 20 yard groups are tight, arrows touching. If the rain lets up i will get out and shoot son from 50 & 60 yrdz.


----------



## nuts&bolts

huntnutsbro said:


> Well, today was the day i was going to shoot longer yardage, but its pouring! LoL 20 yard groups are tight, arrows touching. If the rain lets up i will get out and shoot son from 50 & 60 yrdz.


When you can,
shoot the long range targets,
and
experiment with twists in the bowstring.

Micro-tune your draw length,
with maybe an extra half twist on the top of the bowstring (end loop)
and
with maybe an extra full twist on the bottom of the bowstring (end loop).

This is a tiny change in draw length,
NOT MEASUREABLE with a tape measure...

but,
this will CHANGE the feel of the way your release fires,
a little smoother,
a little faster,
a little less effort..

and
you should be able to see the difference in the WIDTH of your 60 yard arrow group.

If you can't see the difference,
then,
try another 1/2 twist on the top of the bowstring,
and
try another 1/2 twist or full twist on the bottom of the bowstring 
(whatever it takes, to get the peep pointing straight ahead).

The goal is to make your 60 yard arrows groups,
say 25% to 50% more narrow.


----------



## huntnutsbro

Ok, will see what happens. Thanks


----------



## huntnutsbro

View attachment 1599011
Well got a break in the rain. Could only shoot 45 yds because the yard is flooded. But, first pic is 20 yd group, also shot one bare shaft with it. Second pic is 45 yd group, also with one bare shaft. Didnt have anymore field points to shoot 2 bare as you reccomend.


----------



## huntnutsbro

Sorry, first pic above is 45 yd group, second is 20 yd group.


----------



## huntnutsbro

Not sure if these pics will help, but had the wife take these. 

View attachment 1599049









By what i have seen from others that have post pics like these, it looks good, but right elbow looks a little behind my head maybe. Let me know. Thanks.


----------



## huntnutsbro

Put a half twist in top end of string, and a full in the bottom. Seemed to help, so i will put another half in the top, that should bring the peep right to where it needs to be. 

Will see what that does. Will this bring my pin and centershot on rest together? Cause it is still shooting couple inches left at 50 yards. And my sight pin is a lil left of arrow now. Didnt shoot a bare shaft this time.

Also, what will this do to timing? Is it enough to change it? I assume that if i do same amount of twists at each end of string it will stay the same. Am i correct in this?


----------



## nuts&bolts

huntnutsbro said:


> Put a half twist in top end of string, and a full in the bottom. Seemed to help, so i will put another half in the top, that should bring the peep right to where it needs to be.
> 
> Will see what that does. Will this bring my pin and centershot on rest together? Cause it is still shooting couple inches left at 50 yards. And my sight pin is a lil left of arrow now. Didnt shoot a bare shaft this time.
> 
> Also, what will this do to timing? Is it enough to change it? I assume that if i do same amount of twists at each end of string it will stay the same. Am i correct in this?



ONLY half your pics are showing up.

If the bareshaft is missing LEFT of fletched, at long range...

then,
UNTWIST the bowstring (top and bottom).

If the bareshaft is missing RIGHT of the fletched, at long range...

then,
twist the bowstring (top and bottom).

I see ONE pic of 2 fletched arrows smacking tight together,
and looks like the bareshaft is about 12-inches LEFT.

So,
*I would UN-twist the bowstring,*
a half twist on the top,
and either a half twist or a full twist on the bottom.


----------



## nuts&bolts

huntnutsbro said:


> View attachment 1599012
> View attachment 1599011
> Well got a break in the rain. Could only shoot 45 yds because the yard is flooded. But, first pic is 20 yd group, also shot one bare shaft with it. Second pic is 45 yd group, also with one bare shaft. Didnt have anymore field points to shoot 2 bare as you reccomend.


Can't tell what spot you were aiming at.

When shooting long range,
tune for the TIGHTEST group you can...

and then,
move the sight pins windage
to hit the spot you are aiming at.

Your fletched group looks TIGHT,
but...

since the bareshaft is missing 8-10-inches LEFT,
then,
there is room for improvement...
and
I would UN-twist the bowstring a tiny amount.


----------



## huntnutsbro

Shooting for the spot to the right of the fletched group. And yes bare is missing left 8 or so inches. So i need to take the twists i put in out, and then go out some more? Will try that. Thanks for the help. If the 20 yd pic isnt showing here it is again to see if it shows.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Here are your photos, all in one spot.

20 yard shots.











45 yard shots.











The long range targets always provide more info.

So,
right handed shooter,
bareshafts are missing 8-10 inches to the LEFT...

we want the bowstring a tiny bit longer.

This will tighten up your 45 yd groups EVEN TIGHTER,
cuz,
when we can get the bareshafts hitting with the fletched...

then,
this means LESS steering correction work
for the fletched arrows.

You may want to try 50 or 55 or 60 yard group tuning,
and bareshaft shooting,
so you don't destroy any fletched arrows.


----------



## huntnutsbro

ok, going out to lengthen the string and see what it does.


----------



## huntnutsbro

Ok, lengthened string and it definately helped! This is a 65 yd group.









And it is moving the long range groups to the right! You are the tuning guru god! LoL i never would have thought that doing this would fix this. Was kinda puzzled as to how to do this with out a yoke. But, i will listen to your wisdom for sure. 
tomorrow i will tweek it a bit more, hoping to get that rest back over to where it needs to be. So i will mod. French tune, and bareshaft tune some tomorrow if weather permits. Will post results as i go along.

Again, big thanks.


----------



## UtterButter

Subscribed! There is so much info here, thank you for all the effort!!


----------



## huntnutsbro

Ok, took another 1/2 twist out of the top. 30 yd group. Bare is still 7 to 8 inches left. My fletched groups are TIGHT. what gives? LoL last night i shot from 65 yds and got a softball size group, and it was right of the bull by an inch. Thought i was gettin somewhere but i guess not. Surely with .300 spine im not weak. According to ontarget2 im damn close to perfect spine.


----------



## huntnutsbro

took 2 turns out of limb bolts to drop poundage, and no change at 30. so its not a spine issue i dont think.


----------



## nuts&bolts

huntnutsbro said:


> Ok, took another 1/2 twist out of the top. 30 yd group. Bare is still 7 to 8 inches left. My fletched groups are TIGHT. what gives? LoL last night i shot from 65 yds and got a softball size group, and it was right of the bull by an inch. Thought i was gettin somewhere but i guess not. Surely with .300 spine im not weak. According to ontarget2 im damn close to perfect spine.


Grip or need to lengthen bowstring a few more twists.


----------



## nuts&bolts

huntnutsbro said:


> took 2 turns out of limb bolts to drop poundage, and no change at 30. so its not a spine issue i dont think.


Bareshaft and spine issues ONLY apply to Fingers Shooters.


----------



## nuts&bolts

huntnutsbro said:


> Ok, took another 1/2 twist out of the top. 30 yd group. Bare is still 7 to 8 inches left. My fletched groups are TIGHT. what gives? LoL last night i shot from 65 yds and got a softball size group, and it was right of the bull by an inch. Thought i was gettin somewhere but i guess not. Surely with .300 spine im not weak. According to ontarget2 im damn close to perfect spine.


Shoot with the bow hand slippery with soap or dishwashing liquid.

See if any change in bareshaft impact.


----------



## nuts&bolts

huntnutsbro said:


> Ok, took another 1/2 twist out of the top. 30 yd group. Bare is still 7 to 8 inches left. My fletched groups are TIGHT. what gives? LoL last night i shot from 65 yds and got a softball size group, and it was right of the bull by an inch. Thought i was gettin somewhere but i guess not. Surely with .300 spine im not weak. According to ontarget2 im damn close to perfect spine.


Bareshaft 7 to 8 inches left at 30 yards needs more than half a twist longer in the bowstring.

Try two twists longer on top and try three twists longer on the bottom.

If this is not enough, then DOUBLE the adjustment.

When the bareshaft misses to the right,
then work backwards in small amounts,
adding twists top and bottom.


----------



## huntnutsbro

So 2 top and 3 bottom. Alright, back to the press. LoL


----------



## huntnutsbro

2 out of top and 3 out of bottom and now bare hit 14 inches left! So that is goin the wrong way!


----------



## nuts&bolts

huntnutsbro said:


> 2 out of top and 3 out of bottom and now bare hit 14 inches left! So that is goin the wrong way!


Then,
go the other direction.

Are you a right handed shooter?

Longer bowstring,
made the bareshaft go MORE LEFT?

When one direction does not work,
go the other way.

Fire at least 2 bareshafts,
to make sure you are shooting good shots.

Both bareshafts should have the same result.


----------



## huntnutsbro

Yes, right handed, and yes both bare going left. Most times same amount. Fletched groups are great, so im comfortable that the shots are all good. Have to go back to wotk tomorrow, so i will go back with the adjustments and see where it goes.


----------



## nuts&bolts

huntnutsbro said:


> Yes, right handed, and yes both bare going left. Most times same amount. Fletched groups are great, so im comfortable that the shots are all good. Have to go back to wotk tomorrow, so i will go back with the adjustments and see where it goes.


Give a try the other direction, (adding twists)
and see if you get better results.

IN the end,
group tuning with fletched arrows,
may be the best method.


----------



## [email protected]

The only computer i have is a samsung touchscreen with the origonal 2g micro sd card . is this tuning guide to big to fit because it wont download on my phone. if i just need a sd card with more memory then ill have to get one

thanks nuts and bolts


----------



## nuts&bolts

[email protected] said:


> The only computer i have is a samsung touchscreen with the origonal 2g micro sd card . is this tuning guide to big to fit because it wont download on my phone. if i just need a sd card with more memory then ill have to get one
> 
> thanks nuts and bolts


Goto page 8 of this thread,
post #221.

Neuralgia has a drop box link to a merged pdf file,
which has the 2012 updates.

5 mb file.

You should also download my KITCHEN SINK TUNING method.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1844443&highlight=tuning

See post #5 for Kitchen Sink Tuning. People, lots of people have been getting really good results.


When you finish Kitchen Sink Tuning,
then,
follow up with Creep Tuning.

See POST #15, 
in the thread link below.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1844443&highlight=tuning


----------



## nuts&bolts

Drop box link
to the Nuts&Bolts Guide to Tuning and Shooting Compound Bows...

this link also includes the 2012 updates.

The Nuts & Bolts Of Archery Sept 2012 (Neuralgia merge)


----------



## fallenangels

Good article, packed with everything in it!


----------



## Douglesolocam

Great info!


----------



## badguybuster

Dang. That's amazing


----------



## dschonbrun

Hi Nuts and Bolts,

I'm dialing in my DL and would like your advice. Video analysis and feel tell me that the ideal position is between 28.0" and 28.5"; I'm 5'9" with a 71.0" wingspan and medium sized hands.

Right now it seems that about 8 twists added at 28.5 gives me good results. My question is, am I better off adding 8 twists at 28.5, or subtracting X twists from the 28.0 position? Effectively, How many twists in the bowstring will yield a 1/4" change? 

Thanks and Regards,
David


----------



## nuts&bolts

dschonbrun said:


> Hi Nuts and Bolts,
> 
> I'm dialing in my DL and would like your advice. Video analysis and feel tell me that the ideal position is between 28.0" and 28.5"; I'm 5'9" with a 71.0" wingspan and medium sized hands.
> 
> Right now it seems that about 8 twists added at 28.5 gives me good results. My question is, am I better off adding 8 twists at 28.5, or subtracting X twists from the 28.0 position? Effectively, How many twists in the bowstring will yield a 1/4" change?
> 
> Thanks and Regards,
> David


Hello David:

Rely MORE on my 5 foot shooting test.






































1) step back only 5 feet.

2) fire a fletched arrow at the weighted string, and try and SPLIT the fibers
....tweak the SIGHT PINS windage setting ONLY...until you can SPLIT the fibers
....helps to start with the arrow rest at FACTORY centershot
....if you don't know what is this position, then use masking tape and tape an arrow to your sight window
....load an arrow onto the bowstring, and move the arrow rest SIDEWAYS until both are parallel
....measure the EDGE to EDGE gap between the two arrows, somewhere near the front of the two arrows.
....measure the EDGE to EDGE gap between the two arrows, somewhere near the rear of the two arrows.
....MOVE the arrow rest sideways until the two edge to edge measurements MATCH.

3) AFTER you have SPLIT the string fibers shooting only from 5 FEET away...

4) now, try again with a bareshaft
....if the bareshaft misses to the RIGHT (and you are a RH shooter) SHORTEN the bow draw length setting

now, when you SHORTEN the bow DL setting,
this means the NOCK is now CLOSER to the riser...

so,
this means your butt/hips/belt buckle...needs to SWING away from the target, MORE above your RIGHT ANKLE
this means that your two ARM PITS..need to SWING towards the target, MORE above your LEFT ankle.

This is what needs to happen, when you SHRINK the DL.

Do NOT bend your bow arm more than before.
Keep the bow arm elbow FROZEN, with the EXACT same bend as before.

When you learn how to SWING your UPPER BODY FORWARDS (leaning IN towards the target)
then,
as you SHORTEN your DL
the release side forearm will ROTATE around your shoulder.

WE want THIS to happen, when shortening the DL.










to











When you shorten the DL,
this should happen...






































So,
shortening the DL,
MUST result in a POSTURE change,
where the two arm pits MOVE forward, TOWARDS the target.


----------



## dfII

Is there a nuts and bolts book that is printed and for sale?


----------



## nuts&bolts

dfII said:


> Is there a nuts and bolts book that is printed and for sale?


I have a free "guide" that is called the Nuts&Bolts Guide to Shooting and Tuning Compound Bows.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1399457

See page 1. You can download and print the free guide yourself.

I am working on a DVD, that will cover topics
for the first Nuts&Bolts seminar on Sep 7 and 8, 2013
at Hitaga Archery in Iowa. So, folks who cannot attend the seminar,
can put there name on the thread below (post that you are interested)
and I will keep track,
and let you know when the DVD is finished after the seminar.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1979689


----------



## Beefcake

Interested in the DVD, thanks

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 68ymarta

Here is the deal. I just bought a dozen new 380 protours and tungsten points. My draw length is 29.3 and draw weight is 59#, bow is Pro Elite .5 cam. I like to know how to start determine the correct arrow length. Should i shoot first factory length bare shafts let's say 20 yards and look how they hit, and then cut a bit and shoot again and look if the pattern is smaller and continue until the pattern stop to shrink. Is that the right way to find the arrow length which is best just my bow. Or should i trust computer software and cut the arrow 31" long and 110 grain point ant thats it. What nuts&bolts would say about this. These arrows is so expensive that i like to be sure before i start to chop them. 

This might be a silly question, but maybe there are also some other who might get help this.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Beefcake said:


> Interested in the DVD, thanks
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


Yup.
I have you on my list.


----------



## nuts&bolts

68ymarta said:


> Here is the deal. I just bought a dozen new 380 protours and tungsten points. My draw length is 29.3 and draw weight is 59#, bow is Pro Elite .5 cam. I like to know how to start determine the correct arrow length. Should i shoot first factory length bare shafts let's say 20 yards and look how they hit, and then cut a bit and shoot again and look if the pattern is smaller and continue until the pattern stop to shrink. Is that the right way to find the arrow length which is best just my bow. Or should i trust computer software and cut the arrow 31" long and 110 grain point ant thats it. What nuts&bolts would say about this. These arrows is so expensive that i like to be sure before i start to chop them.
> 
> This might be a silly question, but maybe there are also some other who might get help this.


So,
here is the deal.

You bought Easton X10 ProTours in 380 spine.

You also bought Tungsten points.

*So,
are you Tungsten points still at 120 grains?*


Second question.
What vanes?

FlexFletch 187s?

What kind of scores are you shooting?
Are these FITA arrows?
Are you shooting FITA Field?

Are you using Eli vanes?
Are you shooting SpinWings?

*I can only advise you after I get a feel for your current skill level,
and what kind of shooting you intend to use these arrows for.*


----------



## nuts&bolts

68ymarta said:


> Here is the deal. I just bought a dozen new 380 protours and tungsten points. My draw length is 29.3 and draw weight is 59#, bow is Pro Elite .5 cam. I like to know how to start determine the correct arrow length. Should i shoot first factory length bare shafts let's say 20 yards and look how they hit, and then cut a bit and shoot again and look if the pattern is smaller and continue until the pattern stop to shrink. Is that the right way to find the arrow length which is best just my bow. Or should i trust computer software and cut the arrow 31" long and 110 grain point ant thats it. What nuts&bolts would say about this. These arrows is so expensive that i like to be sure before i start to chop them.
> 
> This might be a silly question, but maybe there are also some other who might get help this.


So,
here is the deal.

Leave the tungsten points at 120 grains.

You spent $240 on tungsten points to get maximum FOC,
cuz tungsten is the most DENSE material used to create target points...

so, why would you snap off one section
to reduce the FOC??????

Figure out the tune, the BEST tune using the full 120 grain point weight.

So,
what are your average scores again???

for the type of shooting you plan to do?

FULL FITA?
FITA FIELD?
NFAA Field Archery?


----------



## nuts&bolts

68ymarta said:


> Here is the deal. I just bought a dozen new 380 protours and tungsten points. My draw length is 29.3 and draw weight is 59#, bow is Pro Elite .5 cam. I like to know how to start determine the correct arrow length. Should i shoot first factory length bare shafts let's say 20 yards and look how they hit, and then cut a bit and shoot again and look if the pattern is smaller and continue until the pattern stop to shrink. Is that the right way to find the arrow length which is best just my bow. Or should i trust computer software and cut the arrow 31" long and 110 grain point ant thats it. What nuts&bolts would say about this. These arrows is so expensive that i like to be sure before i start to chop them.
> 
> This might be a silly question, but maybe there are also some other who might get help this.


So,
Hoyt ProElite..2007???
Hoyt Cam.5 cams?

What holding weight?

Hoyt Cam.5 Plus cams? 2008?

XT2000 limbs?


----------



## nuts&bolts

68ymarta said:


> Here is the deal. I just bought a dozen new 380 protours and tungsten points. My draw length is 29.3 and draw weight is 59#, bow is Pro Elite .5 cam. I like to know how to start determine the correct arrow length. Should i shoot first factory length bare shafts let's say 20 yards and look how they hit, and then cut a bit and shoot again and look if the pattern is smaller and continue until the pattern stop to shrink. Is that the right way to find the arrow length which is best just my bow. Or should i trust computer software and cut the arrow 31" long and 110 grain point ant thats it. What nuts&bolts would say about this. These arrows is so expensive that i like to be sure before i start to chop them.
> 
> This might be a silly question, but maybe there are also some other who might get help this.



I would not go with a shaft length of 31-inches
with a 29.3-inch draw length. Too much overhang.

Sooooooooo,
from your questions,
this is your FIRST set of X10 ProTours???????


----------



## 68ymarta

nuts&bolts said:


> So,
> here is the deal.
> 
> You bought Easton X10 ProTours in 380 spine.
> 
> You also bought Tungsten points.
> 
> *So,
> are you Tungsten points still at 120 grains?*
> 
> 
> Second question.
> What vanes?
> 
> FlexFletch 187s?
> 
> What kind of scores are you shooting?
> Are these FITA arrows?
> Are you shooting FITA Field?
> 
> Are you using Eli vanes?
> Are you shooting SpinWings?
> 
> *I can only advise you after I get a feel for your current skill level,
> and what kind of shooting you intend to use these arrows for.*


Reason why points are now 110 gr because i bought those in second handed, vanes are Easton Tite Flight 200
These are FITA and compound 50 m round arrows, average scores past two years have been: FITA 1270, 50 m competition best result 645, others between 609-637

Those results are my first outdoor competition results.


----------



## 68ymarta

nuts&bolts said:


> I would not go with a shaft length of 31-inches
> with a 29.3-inch draw length. Too much overhang.
> 
> Sooooooooo,
> from your questions,
> this is your FIRST set of X10 ProTours???????


Yes these are my first set


----------



## 68ymarta

nuts&bolts said:


> So,
> Hoyt ProElite..2007???
> Hoyt Cam.5 cams?
> 
> What holding weight?
> 
> Hoyt Cam.5 Plus cams? 2008?
> 
> XT2000 limbs?


Hoyt Pro Elite 2007, Cam 1/2 xt 2000 limbs, let-off is 65%, i got my holding weight 18,8(measured)


----------



## nuts&bolts

68ymarta said:


> Hoyt Pro Elite 2007, Cam 1/2 xt 2000 limbs, let-off is 65%, i got my holding weight 18,8(measured)


Ok.

I think you will LIKE the tungsten points,
cuz the higher FOC helps tighten up your groups.


----------



## nuts&bolts

68ymarta said:


> Hoyt Pro Elite 2007, Cam 1/2 xt 2000 limbs, let-off is 65%, i got my holding weight 18,8(measured)


The ProTours should ONLY be cut from the front end,
because the front end of the arrow is tapered..(gets skinnier).


----------



## nuts&bolts

68ymarta said:


> Hoyt Pro Elite 2007, Cam 1/2 xt 2000 limbs, let-off is 65%, i got my holding weight 18,8(measured)


What is the current length of the arrows?


----------



## 68ymarta

nuts&bolts said:


> Ok.
> 
> I think you will LIKE the tungsten points,
> cuz the higher FOC helps tighten up your groups.


Yup, that's was the reason why i bought them


----------



## 68ymarta

nuts&bolts said:


> What is the current length of the arrows?


Arrows is still factory length, 34 inch, that's why i asked these questions, i don't make mistake and cut them too short


----------



## 68ymarta

nuts&bolts said:


> Ok.
> 
> I think you will LIKE the tungsten points,
> cuz the higher FOC helps tighten up your groups.


That was my mind also


----------



## 68ymarta

nuts&bolts said:


> The ProTours should ONLY be cut from the front end,
> because the front end of the arrow is tapered..(gets skinnier).


I have read the same and that's why i buy those arrows.


----------



## nuts&bolts

68ymarta said:


> Arrows is still factory length, 34 inch, that's why i asked these questions, i don't make mistake and cut them too short


Agreed.

So,
since you have only ONE set of ProTours,
then,
we must go in an organized way to find the SWEET spot for the length of your VERY expensive ProTours.

So,
clearly you have software.

So,
whatever the SOFTWARE says is the ideal length for the arrow tube length...

ADD 1-inch 
and start with that length of arrow tube
and ONLY cut 3 arrows and build up your arrow, fletch it
and install your VERY VERY expensive tungsten points...(TEST GROUP A arrows)

Now,
take 3 more arrows
and build 3 TEST arrows 1 cm SHORTER than the first 3 arrows (TEST GROUP B).

Now,
take the 3 TEST GROUP A arrows
and tune your bow the BEST you can
and get some long range groups,
lots of long range groups say at 70 meters
and get the MAXIMUM arrow group size.

WRITE this down.

Now,
load up TEST GROUP B arrows (1 cm shorter)
and tune to the best of your ability
and shoot LOTS and LOTS of groups at 70 meters
and then, write down the MAXIMUM group size for TEST B arrows.

Which group is the BETTER group size? Should be the shorter arrows.

So,
take the GROUP A arrows
and heat the point of the arrow, and pull the point.

Now,
cut the GROUP A arrows 1 cm SHORTER than the GROUP B arrows.

REpeat this process until you find that the LONGER group of arrows
give you the BEST results.


----------



## 68ymarta

nuts&bolts said:


> Agreed.
> 
> So,
> since you have only ONE set of ProTours,
> then,
> we must go in an organized way to find the SWEET spot for the length of your VERY expensive ProTours.
> 
> So,
> clearly you have software.
> 
> So,
> whatever the SOFTWARE says is the ideal length for the arrow tube length...
> 
> ADD 1-inch
> and start with that length of arrow tube
> and ONLY cut 3 arrows and build up your arrow, fletch it
> and install your VERY VERY expensive tungsten points...(TEST GROUP A arrows)
> 
> Now,
> take 3 more arrows
> and build 3 TEST arrows 1 cm SHORTER than the first 3 arrows (TEST GROUP B).
> 
> Now,
> take the 3 TEST GROUP A arrows
> and tune your bow the BEST you can
> and get some long range groups,
> lots of long range groups say at 70 meters
> and get the MAXIMUM arrow group size.
> 
> WRITE this down.
> 
> Now,
> load up TEST GROUP B arrows (1 cm shorter)
> and tune to the best of your ability
> and shoot LOTS and LOTS of groups at 70 meters
> and then, write down the MAXIMUM group size for TEST B arrows.
> 
> Which group is the BETTER group size? Should be the shorter arrows.
> 
> So,
> take the GROUP A arrows
> and heat the point of the arrow, and pull the point.
> 
> Now,
> cut the GROUP A arrows 1 cm SHORTER than the GROUP B arrows.
> 
> REpeat this process until you find that the LONGER group of arrows
> give you the BEST results.


After i done that procedure and found arrow length which give me the best result, should i then go through kitchen sink and creep tuning


----------



## nuts&bolts

68ymarta said:


> After i done that procedure and found arrow length which give me the best result, should i then go through kitchen sink and creep tuning


yes.

When you find the length of arrow that works best for you,
then..

Kitchen Sink and Creep Tuning
will make your groups even SMALLER,
cuz we are finding the sweet spot for bow tuning.


----------



## PUGIDOGS

NB, This year I have decited to step up my game. In doing that I am now tuning all my bows myself. PSE Supra RH, Shaft is a bit stiff ( 400 spine, 50 pounds)So here we go....fletched and bareshafts split string at 5 feet. Both split string at 10 yards, bareshafts nock right about a inch of impact. At 20 yards the fletched split string and bareshafts hit 6 inches to the left with the nock to the right of impact a couple inches. My DL is pretty good ( maybe a touch long, 1/4 inch at most ) should I start with 1/2 twists of right yolk? I was being extra, extra carefull on form and hand placement, so I dont think it was me. Thanx, Pugi


----------



## nuts&bolts

PUGIDOGS said:


> NB, This year I have decited to step up my game. In doing that I am now tuning all my bows myself. PSE Supra RH, Shaft is a bit stiff ( 400 spine, 50 pounds)So here we go....fletched and bareshafts split string at 5 feet. Both split string at 10 yards, bareshafts nock right about a inch of impact. At 20 yards the fletched split string and bareshafts hit 6 inches to the left with the nock to the right of impact a couple inches. My DL is pretty good ( maybe a touch long, 1/4 inch at most ) should I start with 1/2 twists of right yolk? I was being extra, extra carefull on form and hand placement, so I dont think it was me. Thanx, Pugi



If you are right handed,
yes,
try a half twist, top axle, extra half twist on the RIGHT side.

See what happens.

Then,
if you need more adjustment,
top axle, LEFT SIDE, untwist a half twist.


----------



## RatherBArchery

N&B- Can yoke tuning be done the same way when using a bent (anti-torque) cable rod?? I am shooting a 2011 Supra with L6 cams installed. Should I square the top cam at rest or full draw to start??


----------



## RatherBArchery

Also, what tuning procedures will work best with the PSE L6 cam?? I call it a glorified single cam but am guessing it is a hybrid cam???


----------



## nuts&bolts

RatherBArchery said:


> N&B- Can yoke tuning be done the same way when using a bent (anti-torque) cable rod?? I am shooting a 2011 Supra with L6 cams installed. Should I square the top cam at rest or full draw to start??


Sure.
That's always a good starting point,
to have the cam "square" at full draw.

Top cam square at full draw,
then,
the bowstring is feeding dead straight onto the cam.


----------



## nuts&bolts

RatherBArchery said:


> Also, what tuning procedures will work best with the PSE L6 cam?? I call it a glorified single cam but am guessing it is a hybrid cam???


A hybrid cam 
is a single cam design,
that has been tweaked,
to use a NON-round idler wheel up on top.

The rigging for a single cam = bowstring (super duper long) and a buss/yoke cable.

The rigging for a hybrid cam = shorter bowstring + control cable....both of which behave like the SUPER DUPER long single cam string.
Hybrid cam keeps the buss/yoke cable.


----------



## hogman22

How do I get it?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## nuts&bolts

hogman22 said:


> How do I get it?
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Right here.

Page 1.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1399457

pdf download.

150+ pages.
Lots and LOTS of pictures.

I am producing a DVD, as well.

DVD will have a cost. Later this year.

If interested, please post in this thread below.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1979689


----------



## cfuhrer

Thanks for all your hard work, guys!


----------



## Whitetailhntr

Wow great read!!!


----------



## killjoyusmc

Very helpful! thank you!!!


----------



## Bucks & Bulls

I just printed the pdf file and wow, lots of good info. Is there any updates I should print off while I'm at it. Awesome write up nuts&bolts.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Bucks & Bulls said:


> I just printed the pdf file and wow, lots of good info. Is there any updates I should print off while I'm at it. Awesome write up nuts&bolts.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/byyycyrxq... Archery 2012 Updated version (Neuralgia).pdf

This is the link to a DROP BOX merge file,
where ONE pdf file also includes the 2012 updates.

Pages 5-20 through 5-37 are new for 2012.


----------



## Bucks & Bulls

Thank you. I'll keep a eye out for those dvd's.


----------



## bigfish1217

thank y'all :thumb:


----------



## Carl Fuehrer

Where do I get an updated copy of this document?


----------



## UtterButter

Up 4 posts


----------



## nuts&bolts

Carl Fuehrer said:


> Where do I get an updated copy of this document?


Here you go.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/byyycyrxqj...uralgia).pdf

This is the link to a DROP BOX merge file,
where ONE pdf file also includes the 2012 updates.

Pages 5-20 through 5-37 are new for 2012.


----------



## BigShow

nuts&bolts said:


> Here you go.
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/byyycyrxqj...uralgia).pdf
> 
> This is the link to a DROP BOX merge file,
> where ONE pdf file also includes the 2012 updates.
> 
> Pages 5-20 through 5-37 are new for 2012.


Invalid link.


----------



## nuts&bolts

BigShow said:


> Invalid link.


Try this one.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/byyycyrxq... Archery 2012 Updated version (Neuralgia).pdf


----------



## BigShow

Thank you N&B, you're the bestest ever.


----------



## Neuralgia

nuts&bolts said:


> Try this one.
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/byyycyrxq... Archery 2012 Updated version (Neuralgia).pdf


Are you sure, it just tried it again, and it's Ok 

Here it goes again 
http://db.tt/tXjBCJBE

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## dschonbrun

Hi Alan, here are a few questions for you:

1) When you setup a bow, do you begin by aligning the arrow, rest and alignment marks on the riser? In the end, do you even care about the manufacturer's alignment marks or are you more concerned with performance.

2) While Cam lean is most relevant at full draw (ideally you have zero cam lean), what lean do you typically see in a well tuned bow while at rest?

Thanks,
David


----------



## nuts&bolts

dschonbrun said:


> Hi Alan, here are a few questions for you:
> 
> 1) When you setup a bow, do you begin by aligning the arrow, rest and alignment marks on the riser? In the end, do you even care about the manufacturer's alignment marks or are you more concerned with performance.
> 
> 2) While Cam lean is most relevant at full draw (ideally you have zero cam lean), what lean do you typically see in a well tuned bow while at rest?
> 
> Thanks,
> David


Hello David:

So,
brand new bow,
and
a shooter to go with the bow.

BOTH,
the shooter
and the bow
must be adjusted to fit EACH other.

So,
the bow is designed to be DEAD straight,
meaning the riser is NOT twisted, to extremely TIGHT tolerances.

So,
I want the arrow rest set so that the arrow loaded on the rest is pointed DEAD STRAIGHT ahead....
not off to the right, not off to the left, but DEAD STRAIGHT AHEAD....like the front stabilizer.

This is the STARTING point only, when assembling the bow,
cuz during later stages of TUNING,
we WILL fine tune the arrow rest horizontal position,
based on TUNING results.

So, the height of the arrow rest, before we start tuning,
we set the arrow rest height, so that the arrow is roughly at the SAME height as the arrow rest mounting bolt.
This is where we start, BEFORE tuning, cuz we will adjust and fine tune the height,
LATER, based on TUNING results.

So,
if the PSE cams have reference marks,
if the Mathews cams have a reference hole,
sure, use them as a guide.

ATA is a GUIDE, a quick way for lazy folks to confirm that the MAX draw weight is correct when the limb bolts are at maximum....
so instead of a tape measure for ATA, use a scale and confirm the max draw weight is to your liking...when the limb bolts are at max.

Brace Height is a quick way for lazy folks to confirm that the holding weight is to your liking, when at full draw.
So, instead of a tape measure for Brace Height, use a scale and measure the holding weight when at full draw, and see if you like the FEEL of the draw cycle.

Understand that a compound bow is MEANT to be CUSTOM tuned.

It is NOT situation of the bow is "tuned" or "not tuned".

It IS a situation of the bow is CUSTOM TUNED the way YOU like/prefer 
or the bow is NOT custom tuned the way YOU like/prefer.

WHAT you like/prefer early in your shooting career
may likely CHANGE as you progress LATER in your SHOOTING career.

So,
the factory specs are NOT written in stone.

The ONLY thing written in stone
is that YOU reach the NEXT level of shooting.

The ONLY goal is to shoot just a little bit better than before.

So,
then,
YOUR mission,
if you choose to accept it...

is to find the settings that help you REACH the next level of shooting accuracy.
PERIOD.


----------



## nuts&bolts

dschonbrun said:


> Hi Alan, here are a few questions for you:
> 
> 1) When you setup a bow, do you begin by aligning the arrow, rest and alignment marks on the riser? In the end, do you even care about the manufacturer's alignment marks or are you more concerned with performance.
> 
> 2) While Cam lean is most relevant at full draw (ideally you have zero cam lean), what lean do you typically see in a well tuned bow while at rest?
> 
> Thanks,
> David


"So,
then,
YOUR mission,
if you choose to accept it...

is to *find the settings* that help you REACH the next level of shooting accuracy.
PERIOD."


Sooooooooooo,
what exactly does that mean,
with respect to ATA and Brace Height.


Well,
what if you happen to shoot a little better,
when you short string the bow?

If you short string the bow,
maybe add a few twists up on top of the bowstring,
and
add a little be MORE than a few twists on the bottom of the bowstring...

this does SEVERAL things,
that go BEYOND factory spec...

a) draw length is slightly SHORTER
b) *brace height is slightly SHORTER*...out of spec ON PURPOSE!
c) draw weight is slightly LOWER
d) holding weight is slightly HIGHER

this is CUSTOM TUNING,
finding the specs that work BEST for you,
that help you reach the NEXT level of YOUR shooting accuracy.

So,
if this ends up WORKING for you,
then,
yes,
the alignment marks will not longer be IN SPEC,
cuz your bow is now OUT OF SPEC,
on purpose.

See what I mean?


----------



## sjvcon

Neuralgia said:


> Are you sure, it just tried it again, and it's Ok
> 
> Here it goes again
> http://db.tt/tXjBCJBE
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2


Just tried this, and the PC I am on is telling me that the file contains a virus and cannot be downloaded????


----------



## nuts&bolts

sjvcon said:


> Just tried this, and the PC I am on is telling me that the file contains a virus and cannot be downloaded????


Try this one.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/byyycyrxq... Archery 2012 Updated version (Neuralgia).pdf

Latest edition has 177 pages.

Whew!


----------



## expertmagician

Thanks....I am new to archery and just downloaded the PDF file.....

I found a local Archery club who only shoots recurve bows.....is ths PDf useful for recurves ?

Please excuse my ignorance 

PS: I was told if I learn on a recurve, that using a compound bow in the future will be easy ? Is this true ?

Thanks !


----------



## nuts&bolts

expertmagician said:


> Thanks....I am new to archery and just downloaded the PDF file.....
> 
> I found a local Archery club who only shoots recurve bows.....is ths PDf useful for recurves ?
> 
> Please excuse my ignorance
> 
> PS: I was told if I learn on a recurve, that using a compound bow in the future will be easy ? Is this true ?
> 
> Thanks !


I have a "separate" book for recurve,
very rough draft.

Send me a pm message
with your email address,
and I can send you the "recurve" book.

Much shorter.
Unfinished.


----------



## SanDiegoArcher

Really helpful!!!

Thanks again for all the hard work and time!!

Regards,
Dave


----------



## bigfish1217

thank you for this, as a novice archer i am learning quite a bit.


----------



## Rollie83

Great read!! Thanks!!


----------



## wilienayler

Alan,

I'm in need of your expertise.

I have not followed your program to the "T" as I usually have always paper tuned my bows without a problem. I'm using a 2012 PSE DS EVO 70# at 29" DL. Shafts are PSE PRO300 at 29".

The cam timing marks have never matched each other coming from the PSE. I've tune the stops
so the top cam is just ahead of bottom. Tiller is even.

The Code Red rest sits 1/4" above square. While paper tuning I can shoot fletched arrows bullet holes but the bare shafts have a down five o'clock 1/4"tear I can't clean up.

This first photo is shooting 2 fletched and 2 bare shafts at 5 yards that group. You can see the bare shafts are planning down.








The second and third photos are at 10 and 15 yards, still grouped with bare shafts planning down.
















The second and third photo were at shoulder height but the first was waist high. 

I would appreciate your opinion on how to correct this. Thanks


----------



## ssgcritter

*New to bows*

I am new to bowhunting. I just bought a high country sniper so i can learn from it. It has a draw length of 31 inches, and i need it to be 27 how can i do this. Also do they still make parts for this bow, and is it a good starter bow.


----------



## Ballingerjon

Hello I was wondering how I could get a copy of the file but I only have an iPhone at the moment since we do not have Internet at our house but I also have a laptop and if anyone might know how to get a PDF file off of an iPhone and onto a laptop I could use the help lol


----------



## aread

Ballingerjon said:


> Hello I was wondering how I could get a copy of the file but I only have an iPhone at the moment since we do not have Internet at our house but I also have a laptop and if anyone might know how to get a PDF file off of an iPhone and onto a laptop I could use the help lol


Take your laptop to any McDonalds or other business with wi-fi. Many places have free wi-fi and you can download directly to the laptop. A couple of Starbucks and Panera bread places I've been to blocked AT, but some don't. McD is probably the easiest to find. You don't even have to go inside, just park as close as possible.


----------



## Ballingerjon

aread said:


> Take your laptop to any McDonalds or other business with wi-fi. Many places have free wi-fi and you can download directly to the laptop. A couple of Starbucks and Panera bread places I've been to blocked AT, but some don't. McD is probably the easiest to find. You don't even have to go inside, just park as close as possible.


Ok I'll try to lol or maybe I'll just go to the library as well


----------



## hdluer

I just discovered this. Thank you for a fantastic guide. I thought I knew quite a bit, but have learned a TON of stuff. Thank you "Nuts & Bolts" for your hard work putting this together.


----------



## ynothc

First time i gave this an honest read through, helped out a lot after making some changes to my setup. This should be included with the owners manual for every bow. Good tuning info everyone should know.


----------



## MichaelGentry

Ok just to start. 
Darton ds 3800 27/67.5
26" carbon express mayhems with 2"blazers wieghing 396 gr

I deceided to follow Nuts and Bolts kitchen sink tuning to start. Got everything fairly close then went to bare shaft out to 20. 

When bareshafting the shafts shot high/left than the fletched so i moved rest to compensate. Now getting just a right tear/left poi of the fletched...... i cant tune a yoke because Darton has a floating Dual letout system. Any ideas. Should i just move the rest


Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> Ok just to start.
> Darton ds 3800 27/67.5
> 26" carbon express mayhems with 2"blazers wieghing 396 gr
> 
> I deceided to follow Nuts and Bolts kitchen sink tuning to start. Got everything fairly close then went to bare shaft out to 20.
> 
> When bareshafting the shafts shot high/left than the fletched so i moved rest to compensate. Now getting just a right tear/left poi of the fletched...... i cant tune a yoke because Darton has a floating Dual letout system. Any ideas. Should i just move the rest
> 
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


1) move the arrow rest back to factory centershot position
...if you don't know what is this position, then, move the arrow rest sideways until the arrow is pointed DEAD STRAIGHT ahead, just like your front stabilzer
...you can also take a 2nd arrow and tape it to the riser
...move the arrow rest SIDEWAYS until the two arrows are parallel
...measure the gap between the two arrows, near the front
...measure the gap between the two arrows, near the back
...move the arrow rest sideways, until these two measurements EXACTLY match

2) fire the bareshaft and the fletched at a weighted string, just 5 FEET away
...the fletched arrow should SPLIT the string fibers
...the bareshaft should TOUCH the weighted string just 5 feet away
*...when shooting at 5 FEET....do NOT move the arrow rest...ONLY adjust the sight pins windage*

3) when firing at 20 yards, ONLY move the arrow rest, when shooting FLETCHED ARROWS
....KITCHEN SINK does NOT involve bareshafts at 20 yards...
....KITCHEN SINK ONLY has you shooting a bareshaft at 5 FEET
...so, shoot a group of fletched arrows, and MOVE the arrow rest to get FLETCHED arrows CENTERED around the bullseye
...if the FLETCHED arrows are grouping, but the CENTER of the group is 6-inches to the LEFT of the bullseye
...MOVE THE ARROW REST a TINY BIT, to move the GROUP OF FLETCHED ARROWS to the right...move move the arrow rest to the RIGHT

...if the FLETCHED arrows are grouping, but the CENTER of the group of FLETCHED is 4-inches to the RIGHT of the bullseye
...MOVE THE ARROW REST a TINY BIT, to move the GROUP OF FLETCHED ARROWS to the left...move move the arrow rest to the LEFT

NO BARESHAFTS at 20 yards
ONLY fletched arrows at 20 yards
MOVE the arrow rest in TINY amounts, to move the group of FLETCHED arrows to get the FLETCHED arrows CENTERED around the bullseye

4) Now, check the fletched and bareshaft again, shooting at 5 FEET

5) Now fire a group of FLETCHED ARROWS ONLY, to confirm your FLETCHED ARROWS are hitting and are CENTERED around the bullseye

NO BARESHAFTS at 20 yards
ONLY bareshafts at 5 FEET.


6) Now, proceed to CREEP TUNING at 20 yards
....Horizontal strip of duct tape...20 YARDS away
....TOP edge of the tape at YOUR eXACT shoulder height
....Use a table and/or a stack of boxes to get your portable target HIGH enough

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1844443&highlight=tuning

See Post #15 for Creep Tuning

7) AFTER you finish Kitchen Sink Tuning
...AFTER you finish Creep Tuning

8) NOW fire a group of fletched arrows at say 10 yards
...NOW fire at LEAST TWO bareshafts at say 10 yards.


You SKIPPED the creep tuning step,
so this is where the HIGH-LOW misses with FLETCHED arrows get fixed.

Gotta do the CREEP TUNING.

So,
AFTER KITCHEN SINK TUNING...to fix horizontal nock travel
so,
AFTER CREEP TUNING..............to fix vertical nock travel


----------



## nuts&bolts

then,
try bareshafts at 10 yards.

So,
let's say you follow all the steps IN ORDER,
and
you still get bareshafts hitting HIGH.

Well,
continue the creep tuning process,
but this time, with FLETCHED and BARESHAFT arrows.

Do the CREEP TUNING with bareshaft at 10 yards.

So,
continue to tweak the cam SYNC,
to get LEVEL bareshaft flight at 10 yards,
so that the bareshafts ALL have the same height
for point of impact,
namely the TOP EDGE of the duct tape,
where the TOP EDGE is at your EXACT shoulder height.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Continue the Creep Tuning,
making your bow OUT OF SYNC,
on purpose,
until all your bareshafts
hit the top edge of the duct tape.


----------



## nuts&bolts

So,
you pass the CREEP Tuning test at 10 yards.

So,
try CREEP TUNING at 15 yards.
TWeak the cam sync, as needed.

So,
try CREEP TUNING at 20 yards.
TWeak the cam sync, as needed.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Now,
fire a group of fletched arrows at 10 yards,
and fire at LEAST 2 bareshafts.

If your bareshafts are missing LEFT of the fletched arrows,
if YOU are a Right Handed shooter..

*do NOT move the arrow rest.*


----------



## nuts&bolts

IF you are a RH shooter,
and
IF your bareshafts are missing LEFT of your fletched arrows
(you DID fire at least 2 bareshafts?)
(both bareshafts are grouping/slapping together at 10 yards?)

If the two bareshafts are slapping together at 10 yards,
but
the bareshafts are grouping together, LEFT
of the fletched arrow groups..

two SEPARATE groups....

then,
we need to LENGTHEN your d-loop..

(do NOT move the arrow rest).

TWeak the length of your d-loop
(try DOUBLE the usual length)
and
see what happens at 10 yards.

Continue trying new lengths of d-loop
until you get BARESHAFTS and FLETCHED
to group together.

If you are not using a TRUE SHOT COACH,
then,
definitely consider using one,
to make your grip,
to make your bow hand angle DEAD consistent.

Bow hand position has a LARGE impact on where your bareshafts hit.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Ok,
so you passed the bareshaft test,
you tweaked the d-loop length
and now bareshafts and fletched
group together at 10 yards.

Try it again at 15 yards.

Tweak the d-loop
if your bareshafts are hitting LEFT of fletched,
at 15 yards.

MAke sure you have your bow hand thumb pointed DEAD straight ahead
and
you want the bow hand thumb muscle
as COMPLETELY relaxed,
as possible...as cushy as a goose down pillow.

If your fingers are POINTED STRAIGHT OUT,
like a pitchfork,
then,
your thumb muscle is not as cushy as a goose down pillow.

Use a True Shot Coach,
and allow your fingers to CURL.


----------



## nuts&bolts

So,
bareshaft tuning and shooting,
at 10 yards,
and
at 15 yards,
and we STILL have not touched the arrow rest,
when shooting bareshafts.

WE are working on YOUR form,
on YOUR shooting posture.

A RH shooter
who experiences BARESHAFTS missing left,
is NOT an arrow rest issue,
and is more a short d-loop problem,
causing the elbow (release arm side)
to NOT line up directly behind the arrow,
when at full draw.

So,
a LONGER d-loop
should allow your release side forearm

to get MORE inline...

more like this.


----------



## nuts&bolts

So,
now we try bareshaft tuning at 20 yards...

shooting a group of fletched
and at LEAST two bareshafts.

Nope,
still now arrow rest adjustments.

Work your bow hand position,
make sure your bow hand thumb muscle is as relaxed as possible,
confirm that your bow hand thumb is pointed DEAD straight ahead

use the True Shot Coach

and work the d-loop length
to get as "aligned" as possible.

Bareshafts missing left,
but
fletched arrows are grouping TIGHT, and CENTERED around the bullseye?

Experiment with your foot position,
and open up your stance, slightly...
if your bareshafts continue to miss LEFT.

PRACTICE shooting bareshafts
at 10 yards,
at 15 yards,
at 20 yards.

With time,
then you can get results like flopduster...at 30 yards.


----------



## nuts&bolts

TWeak the d-loop length,
tweak the shooting stance (slightly more open...if you are a RH shooter, and bareshafts are missing left).

Shoot at LEAST two bareshafts,
and make sure the bareshafts are SLAPPING together, 
in a separate group
from the fletched arrow group.

When you get to 30 yards,
shooting bareshafts and fletched..

if you have two separate groups,
say the two BARESHAFTS are slapping together
and
say the group of FLETCHED arrows are 1-2 inches apart..

NOW,
you try tweaking the bow DRAW LENGTH,
by micro-tuning the bowstring twists.

Since you have a NON-adjustable yoke system,
this
is no different than NO yoke cables....

cuz,
either way,
you cannot adjust the top axle with the yoke legs.


So,
the ONLY option you have for tuning horizontal nock travel...

is to tweak your form (stance..slightly more open...stance to neutral...stance to slightly more closed)

is to tweak the twists in the bowstring (to MICRO-tune the bow draw length setting)
so, maybe we lengthen the bow DL by 1/16th inch
so, maybe we lengthen the bow DL by 3/32nds inch
so, maybe we lengthen the bow DL by 1/8th inch to fix BARESHAFTS missing LEFT of fletched arrows, for a RH shooter.


----------



## MichaelGentry

Ok so it has nothing to do with spine of the arrow then? I was getting real worried as this is my hunting bow also

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----------



## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> Ok so it has nothing to do with spine of the arrow then? I was getting real worried as this is my hunting bow also
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2



Easy test.

Drop 5 lbs or 10 lbs off your draw weight,
and see if your groups get TIGHTER.

If they do,
then a stiff arrow will work better,
at your usual draw weight.

If dropping 10 lbs off the draw weight,
makes no change,
then...

arrow stiffness is not the issue.


----------



## MichaelGentry

Thisll sound dumb but im assuming with fletched. Or is this with un fletched or a mix

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----------



## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> Thisll sound dumb but im assuming with fletched. Or is this with un fletched or a mix
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2



Shoot some long range groups,
where YOU have consistent group size.

So,
let's say you shoot SOLID groups at 30 yards,
with fletched arrows.

So,
you are NOT sure,
if you have an arrow spine problem or not.

So,
shoot some groups at your NORMAL draw weight,
and let's say your arrow groups size is 6-inches WIDE and TALL,
and this is NORMAL for you.

BUT,
you are not sure if the NEW draw length is creating TOO MUCH power for your arrows.

So,
drop the draw weight 10 lbs less,
if you can do so,
SAFELY...
and

shoot some groups at 30 yards.

If the arrow group size is the SAME,
then,
you do not have an arrow STIFFNESS problem.

If your arrow group size at 30 yards,
with the draw weight 10 lbs less..

all of a sudden,
SHRINKS from a 6-inch TALL and WIDE arrow group,
and now
you have 4-inch TALL and WIDE arrow groups
or
you ALL of a SUDDEN, have 3-inch TALL and WIDE arrow groups (with fletched arrows)..

then,
you DO have an arrow stiffness problem,
and going to STIFFER arrows (1 SIZE stiffer) will help you.

So,
START with bareshaft tuning at 5 YARDS,
and
then,
try bareshaft tuning at 7 yards,
and
then try bareshaft tuning at 10 yards.

ALWAYS shoot at LEAST two bareshafts,
at each test distance.

If the two bareshafts are NOT slapping together,
then...

you have some form work to do,
and I would not rely on just ONE bareshaft,
for tuning purposes.


----------



## MichaelGentry

Ok so i kitchen sink tuned yesterday no problems, went to creep actually no creep, bare shaft from 10 to 20. And at 20 4" high. Should i increase dl for this. Im make sure my rest is correct

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----------



## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> Ok so i kitchen sink tuned yesterday no problems, went to creep actually no creep, bare shaft from 10 to 20. And at 20 4" high. Should i increase dl for this. Im make sure my rest is correct
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


"went to creep...actually no creep"

what does this mean?

So,
take a picture of your creep tuning results
at 20 yards.

What bow are we talking about?

Need a head to toe photo of you at full draw,
bow arm DEAD level.


----------



## MichaelGentry

Means it held same vertical plane whether i pulled hard or not. Did it even with bareshatfs

Bow is darton ds 3800. 
Ill get pics when i get home from work

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----------



## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> Means it held same vertical plane whether i pulled hard or not. Did it even with bareshatfs
> 
> Bow is darton ds 3800.
> Ill get pics when i get home from work
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


Ok.

Need a picture of your creep tuning results.

So,
usually,
fletched arrows,
total of six fletched arrows,
fired at a horizontal strip of duct tape.

So,
3 FLETCHED arrows, normal pulling pressure into the wall of your bow,
say on the LEFT half of the top edge of the horizontal strip of duct tape.

So,
3 more FLETCHED arrows, but this time, pulling 120% HARDER than normal into the wall of your bow,
say on the RIGHT half of the top edge of the horizontal strip of duct tape.

So,
you are saying you fired SIX FLETCHED arrows, and all SIX fletched arrows hit the TOP EDGE of the horizontal strip of duct tape.

So,
you are ALSO saying,
you went to the next level,
and fired say minimum of TWO BARESHAFTS at the same horizontal strip of duct tape...

but,
the LINE of SIX FLETCHED arrows are all hitting the TOP EDGE of the duct tape...NO change in VERTICAL point of impact
for the six FLETCHED arrows.

BUT,
when you fire at LEAST two BARESHAFTS, the two BARESHAFTS are slapping together,
SAME, EXACT SAME point of impact for the TWO BARESHAFTS,

but,
the two BARESHAFTS, which are grouping together tightly,
are impacting 4-INCHES higher
than the top edge of the duct tape,
which has SIX FLETCHED arrows,

*SPREAD LEFT to RIGHT,
ALL SIX FLETCHED ARROWS at the same HEIGHT for POINT of IMPACT.*

So,
you will get a picture with SIX FLETCHED arrows, all spread left to right,
ALL hitting the TOP EDGE of the duct tape,
where THREE FLETCHED arrows, you fired with NORMAL pulling pressure
where THREE more FLETCHED arrows, you fired with HEAVIER than normal pulling pressure.

Your picture will have EIGHT arrows in the picture.

Picture will help tremendously,
for the EIGHT arrows fired
at the horizontal strip of duct tape,
20 yards away...

where the top edge of the duct tape is at YOUR shoulder height,
cuz it helps TREMENDOUSLY,
if you are shooting a level shot,
with the arrow DEAD LEVEL, when you are at full draw...

so,
this is why the top edge of the duct tape,
must be at YOUR EXACT shoulder height.


----------



## wilienayler

*vertical shots*








The target is level. I just can't take a level
photo from 20 yards.








This was group with a bare shaft. Bare shaft
is still planning tail right.


----------



## nuts&bolts

wilienayler said:


> The target is level. I just can't take a level
> photo from 20 yards.


Photos have been corrected for rotation.


----------



## nuts&bolts

This is an excellent bareshaft result for 20 yards.

So,
to confirm that the "nock right" condition for the bareshaft is a REAL result...and not a symptom of the target behind the cardboard...

if the bareshaft is TRULY planing off to the LEFT..

double the distance
and fire fletched arrows at 40 yards,
and
fire a bareshaft or two, as well,
at 40 yards...

and let's see if we have the bareshaft missing to the LEFT,
by several inches or not.

If you are Right Handed,
and at 40 yards,
your bareshafts are missing LEFT by several inches...

then,
depending on what bow cam system you have...

if you have YOKE cables, 
pull down on the TOP AXLE,
RIGHT side,
say 1/2 twist extra...

then,
shoot some fletched arrow groups at 40 yards,
and fire a bareshaft or two...

then,
another extra half twist, top axle, RIGHT side.


So,
if you DON'T have yoke cables that are adjustable,
or
your bow just plain does NOT have yoke cables at all....

FIRST,
try doubling your d-loop
to CHANGE your anchor,
so your anchor touch points are FARTHER back on your face...

cuz,
what we are REALLY trying to do,
is to get your elbow,
which currently points at 5-o'clock (imaginary OVERHEAD PICTURE)

and
with the DOUBLE LONG d-loop,
then,
we want to ROTATE your RIGHT SIDE upper arm,
so that your ELBOW (release side)
points to the 6-o'clock position,
DIRECTLY IN LINE,
behind your bareshaft,
when you are at full draw....
with your NEW
double long d-loop.

PULL that elbow around your head,
get your RELEASE arm to SWING around your RIGHT shoulder, like a door.


----------



## wilienayler

*Bare shafts are now further left*

Alan,

Made the right yoke change as discussed.

Bare shafts are now impacting left of fletch at twenty yards.










Check cam lean. Shaft is now parallel to string.


----------



## nuts&bolts

if this is the LATEST pic..

*and ASSUMING you are right handed*

triple your d-loop length,
and
rotate your right elbow
MORE behind your head,
when at full draw.

New pic,
at 20 yards,
after you put on an extra long d-loop.

Don't change the draw length,
cuz your groups are excellent.

Use a LONGER, MUCH LONGER d-loop
and let's change your TOTAL spread distance,
the distance from your RIGHT ELBOW
to the grip.

This should move your BARESHAFTS to the RIGHT of the fletched.

If it does not,
then,
we have to goto video clip analysis.


----------



## wilienayler

Yes, I am right handed. As I understand you I have moved my right elbow too far foreword, looking top down, counter clockwise. 

You want me to move the elbow back clockwise.


----------



## K.G.K.

tag


----------



## true shot coach

nuts&bolts said:


> So,
> now we try bareshaft tuning at 20 yards...
> 
> shooting a group of fletched
> and at LEAST two bareshafts.
> 
> Nope,
> still now arrow rest adjustments.
> 
> Work your bow hand position,
> make sure your bow hand thumb muscle is as relaxed as possible,
> confirm that your bow hand thumb is pointed DEAD straight ahead
> 
> use the True Shot Coach
> 
> and work the d-loop length
> to get as "aligned" as possible.
> 
> Bareshafts missing left,
> but
> fletched arrows are grouping TIGHT, and CENTERED around the bullseye?
> 
> Experiment with your foot position,
> and open up your stance, slightly...
> if your bareshafts continue to miss LEFT.
> 
> PRACTICE shooting bareshafts
> at 10 yards,
> at 15 yards,
> at 20 yards.
> 
> With time,
> then you can get results like flopduster...at 30 yards.


The True Shot Coach can be found on www.dontchokearchery.com


----------



## nuts&bolts

wilienayler said:


> Yes, I am right handed. As I understand you I have moved my right elbow too far foreword, looking top down, counter clockwise.
> 
> You want me to move the elbow back clockwise.


Correct.

If your release side (right) elbow is pointed at 5-O'CLOCK...

*ROTATE THE ELBOW CLOCK-WISE
to 6-o'clock.*


----------



## wilienayler

*Overhead elbow at 6 o'clock*

Alan,

You don't know what it cost me to get the wife up the ladder and on to the camper to take this photo. A new bedroom set!

I think my elbow is at the six o'clock position.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Excellent.
Now try shooting this way,
and let's see what happens with your bareshafts.

Shoot fletched and bareshafts at 5 FEET
and confirm your sight pins windage,
so that bareshafts AND fletched,
hit the plumb bob string (weighted string).

Then,
tune the arrow rest horizontal position,
with FLETCHED arrows at 20 yards or 30 yards.

Then,
fire the 2 bareshafts.

ONE last thing to try,
when shooting bareshafts.

Wax the bow grip with car wax.

*Now,
put on a cotton jersey glove
and see if your bareshaft point of impact changes or not.*


----------



## MichaelGentry

Ok today got time and shot some . Re-kitchen sink tuned no pics 
Reconfirmed windage
Creeptuned pic attached
Bareshaft hits high n left about 2" each way. Did not get to creep with bare shaft...... will work further tommorrow

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----------



## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> Ok today got time and shot some . Re-kitchen sink tuned no pics
> Reconfirmed windage
> Creeptuned pic attached
> Bareshaft hits high n left about 2" each way. Did not get to creep with bare shaft...... will work further tommorrow
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4


Darton 3800
Binary cam style bow
No yoke cables.








1) pull the feet/shoes MUCH MUCH MUCH MUCH closer together
....goal = MAKE THE LEGS STRAIGHT up and down....not like a triangle

2) see the BLUE horizontal line?
....move the bow hand thumb HIGHER...and HIGHER...until your top of thumb MATCHES top of shoulder height
....red Arrow is your top of thumb
....BLUE line is your top of shoulder


NEW pics.


----------



## MichaelGentry

New pic

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----------



## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> New pic
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4





Can you take a photo of your target?

20 yards.
Bullseye at YOUR shoulder height.

Fire a group of fletched arrows at the SHOULDER height bullseye,
20 yards away.

Then,
fire 2 bareshafts.

Take a pic of the target.


----------



## MichaelGentry

Btw i disnt think to take a pic but at 25 got both bs and fletched to hit in a 1" but backed up to 30 and takes hard left???? Is 25 enougg

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----------



## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> Btw i disnt think to take a pic but at 25 got both bs and fletched to hit in a 1" but backed up to 30 and takes hard left???? Is 25 enougg
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4


Take a picture of your target at 25 yards.
Take a pic of your target at 30 yards.

Sounds like you need to use the True Shot Coach,
to cleanup your bow hand position, make bow hand position DEAD consistent.


----------



## MichaelGentry

I know i need to order one.....my wifes gonna kill me bahahaa

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## MichaelGentry

All with a new release

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## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> All with a new release
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4


That's EXCELLENT shooting at 25 yards.


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## MichaelGentry

Really???? Thanks!!!! I put tape on the bs for wieght. Should broad heads shoot great now

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## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> Really???? Thanks!!!! I put tape on the bs for wieght. Should broad heads shoot great now
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4


Try broadheads.

If broadheads are missing SLIGHTLY to the right of your field points...

TRY adding 1/2 twist extra, top axle, yoke leg end loop...LEFT SIDE.


----------



## jmec238

*Just checking in*

Hi,
Hubby is having problems posting in the forum. Thought I would see if I could?


----------



## wilienayler

*The latest*

Went back to the basics with paper.
Holes almost where I want them.

Then back to the "kitchen."

Think the center shot is good.









Outside for 20 yards. Think the bare shafts
look better. Will try at 40 yards.


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## newhoyt326

I have got a question maybe someone can help me how do I know if im shooting an under spines arrow out of my bow im at 63 lbs and 27 3/4 draw and a 27 inch arrow im shooting a 400 spine arrow 

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## MichaelGentry

How should i pick a stabilizer length and wieght its for my hunting rig

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## nuts&bolts

wilienayler said:


> Went back to the basics with paper.
> Holes almost where I want them.
> 
> Then back to the "kitchen."
> 
> Think the center shot is good.
> 
> View attachment 1740803
> 
> 
> Outside for 20 yards. Think the bare shafts
> look better. Will try at 40 yards.
> 
> View attachment 1740808


Bareshafts (total of two)
and
Fletched (total of two)
look GREAT at 20 yards.


----------



## nuts&bolts

newhoyt326 said:


> I have got a question maybe someone can help me how do I know if im shooting an under spines arrow out of my bow im at 63 lbs and 27 3/4 draw and a 27 inch arrow im shooting a 400 spine arrow
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2


Drop the draw weight 10 lbs,
and if your groups get TIGHTER,
then,
you would do better with a STIFFER arrow.

Check your arrow group size at say 40 yrds...with current draw weight.
Measure group size. Shoot several groups to get an average group size at the current draw weight.

Then,
drop the draw weight 10 lbs less
and see if your groups SHRINK a LOT better,
like 50% smaller than before.

Do this several times.

If you get REALLY GREAT groups
at the LOWER draw weight,
then,
going STIFFER on your arrows
will probably be a good idea.


----------



## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> How should i pick a stabilizer length and wieght its for my hunting rig
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4


12-inches or less
is the usual length for a hunting stabilizer.

Then,
for weight,
go to the hardware store
and buy a box of 100 pieces of LARGE diameter fender washers.

Now,
experiment with weight aLL you like.


----------



## newhoyt326

nuts&bolts said:


> Drop the draw weight 10 lbs,
> and if your groups get TIGHTER,
> then,
> you would do better with a STIFFER arrow.
> 
> Check your arrow group size at say 40 yrds...with current draw weight.
> Measure group size. Shoot several groups to get an average group size at the current draw weight.
> 
> Then,
> drop the draw weight 10 lbs less
> and see if your groups SHRINK a LOT better,
> like 50% smaller than before.
> 
> Do this several times.
> 
> If you get REALLY GREAT groups
> at the LOWER draw weight,
> then,
> going STIFFER on your arrows
> will probably be a good idea.


I don't think I can drop that much my bow is 60 70 lbs 

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----------



## nuts&bolts

newhoyt326 said:


> I don't think I can drop that much my bow is 60 70 lbs
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2


Shoot a group of arrows at your CURRENT draw weight.
Do this several times.

Measure the arrow group size.

Then,
drop the draw weight to the minimum you can,
and
shoot several groups at the LOWER draw weight.
Do this several times.

Measure the arrow group size.

Then,
whatever weight of field points you are using,
*use a LOWER field point weight,*
AND
*the lowest possible draw weight.*

Shoot several groups of fletched arrows.

*If using the LOWEST possible draw weight you can,
and
using LIGHTER weight field points...*

if you get BETTER then EVER arrow group sizes..
then,
yes,
going stiffer one size if arrows
will work for you.


----------



## MichaelGentry

Went to 35 and was keeping 2"group with bs and fletched then lost my arrow. Found out farther back bs is more sensitive to torque

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## rovobay

Thank you so much for this info. really great. I have learned a lot from reading through this material. :cheers:


----------



## skullerud

Had to try this, even if i shoot groups with arrows touching at 30m.
The interresting thing is that when i put all the fletched arrows in the 10 on a fita 80cm target face, the bare shaft hits consistantly i the 7/8 under.
What is hppening???

Sent from my GT-P7500 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## nuts&bolts

skullerud said:


> Had to try this, even if i shoot groups with arrows touching at 30m.
> The interresting thing is that when i put all the fletched arrows in the 10 on a fita 80cm target face, the bare shaft hits consistantly i the 7/8 under.
> What is hppening???
> 
> Sent from my GT-P7500 using Tapatalk 4



CREEP TUNE.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1844443&highlight=tuning

See Post #15.


----------



## skullerud

Ok. Thanks. Will try.


----------



## OhioBuckHunterT

Is the nutsandbolts dvd out yet? i would be interested in buying a copy


----------



## Coldfire

Good stuff


----------



## nuts&bolts

OhioBuckHunterT said:


> Is the nutsandbolts dvd out yet? i would be interested in buying a copy


Prepping for the Iowa seminar
at Hitaga Archery on Sep 7-8.

Just received a shipment of Precision Balance rods
for the seminar folks to try out.




Then,
after I return from Iowa,
back to work on the DVD.


----------



## jace

Hey nutsand bolts, did you ever make a dvd


----------



## nuts&bolts

jace said:


> Hey nutsand bolts, did you ever make a dvd


Working on it.
Going to do the seminar up at Hitaga Archery, in Iowa,
and
back to work on the DVD.


----------



## jace

Thats good news, you'll probably be rich on sales from the dvd on AT alone, thanks for all you info


----------



## IA Monsterbuck

nuts&bolts said:


> Prepping for the Iowa seminar
> at Hitaga Archery on Sep 7-8.
> 
> Just received a shipment of Precision Balance rods
> for the seminar folks to try out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then,
> after I return from Iowa,
> back to work on the DVD.


Sweet. Can't wait to try them out.

Can you bring some different releases to try? Always wondered about the back tension and thumb style. I have always shot the std wrist strap trigger release.

Also would be interested trying one of those fancy single pin target Scopes if anybody brings one.

Definitely looking to try some things to step up my shooting. I have LOTS of room for improvement!


----------



## nuts&bolts

IA Monsterbuck said:


> Sweet. Can't wait to try them out.
> 
> Can you bring some different releases to try? Always wondered about the back tension and thumb style. I have always shot the std wrist strap trigger release.
> 
> Also would be interested trying one of those fancy single pin target Scopes if anybody brings one.
> 
> Definitely looking to try some things to step up my shooting. I have LOTS of room for improvement!


There will be at LEAST 50 folks coming to the seminar.

Then,
you have my tiny ARMY of helpers,
to operate the presses, and show folks how to use the presses.

Then,
you have the Hitaga Archery club members.

So,
there should be LOTS of folks with releases,
and
I will bring my collection as well.

I think there will be no shortage
of releases to swap and try.

Alan


----------



## MichaelGentry

I wanna thanks nuts n bolta for all the help hes given me throughout the last few months. 

Btw got broadheads shootin great....

Heres my 50yrd grp

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> I wanna thanks nuts n bolta for all the help hes given me throughout the last few months.
> 
> Btw got broadheads shootin great....
> 
> Heres my 50yrd grp
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4




VERY VERY nice.
Welcome.


----------



## CriticalArchery

Great info!


----------



## HIN

Having the pdf version of this, for free is all a spike could ask. And having nuts&bolts by our side is great. Thanks :star::star::star::star::star:


----------



## Rookiex129

A book and a DVD.


----------



## Bob-2112

Thanks Nuts & Bolts... I am a writer also and know how difficult it can be to get everything straight in a professional document for a book or this post. You did a great job on it!

Bob


----------



## 337088

If you want to make a book, tell you the truth I'm the guy you want to ask the questions.


----------



## raven2278

Wow, this is great info. I'm new to tunning my bow by myself so great basic info in here and more. Just went the first couple of points like nock setting, d loop...great info and great pics. So many different things on u tube had me a little scared. This is just a great document. Thanks for putting it up!!!


----------



## mdodraw29

Unreal, this is the most info I have ever seen assembled in one setting. Thank you


----------



## turner1731

Have a question regarding tiller tuning. When I set up my bow I started with my arrow nock point 1/8 inch high. Take my Bow to paper it has a large down tear. I shoot a drop away style rest. After some adustment I ended up rising this by moving my rest slightly to the point to where my nock is actually 1/4 inch high of center. Would tiller tuning take away that extra 1/8 inch extra on my knock set. Secondly will this matter that I'm almost an 8th inch higher than recommended when it comes to shooting broad heads vs field points. My forms good I have worked on it a lot over the last year my shooting through paper is extremely consistent.

And thanks for doing this nuts I this little compilation is amazing


----------



## nuts&bolts

turner1731 said:


> Have a question regarding tiller tuning. When I set up my bow I started with my arrow nock point 1/8 inch high. Take my Bow to paper it has a large down tear. I shoot a drop away style rest. After some adustment I ended up rising this by moving my rest slightly to the point to where my nock is actually 1/4 inch high of center. Would tiller tuning take away that extra 1/8 inch extra on my knock set. Secondly will this matter that I'm almost an 8th inch higher than recommended when it comes to shooting broad heads vs field points. My forms good I have worked on it a lot over the last year my shooting through paper is extremely consistent.
> 
> And thanks for doing this nuts I this little compilation is amazing


FIRST,
we start at the beginning.

What bow?
Need also a head to toe photo OF YOU
at full draw,
with the arrow DEAD horizontal.

We will go step by step,
same steps that we went through with 60 folks
at my seminar in Iowa, at Hitaga Archery.


----------



## turner1731

Ill work on the photo part I'm a actually sitting behind my desk at the moment  wishing I was working on my bow

I shoot a z7 xtreme


----------



## jesh

Nuts&Bolts...

Just wanted to say thank you. I have been fighting to tune broadheads at anything over 30 yds for 2 years on my Bear Charge.
I found your Nuts and Bolts pdf and read the whole thing. I then used the French tuning and I just cut the string with fixed broadheads at 40yds. Then center punched the target with a single arrow at 50yds to prove it wasn't a fluke.

I can't believe how small the rest adjustments were...

Thank You!!!


----------



## wilde7575

Wow! what a great guide. I found this very useful. Thanks


----------



## korbin

Thank you for all the great information. This is a HUGE amount of knowledge and I am very thankful to have access to it.


----------



## moosehead89

Great thread for newbies such as myself. I'm halfway through and need a break on the eyes but tons of good info.


----------



## Mellowfellow

Great stuff! How helpfull


----------



## 19reeves79

Where can you find pdf file at


----------



## XxHolleyxX

19reeves79 said:


> Where can you find pdf file at


http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf


----------



## nuts&bolts

XxHolleyxX said:


> http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf


This is a link to the 2011 edition.
159 pages.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Here is the LONGER, updated 2012 edition.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/byyycyrxq... Archery 2012 Updated version (Neuralgia).pdf

177 pages.

Same chapters.
Same page numbers in both editions.

The extra pages are in Chapter 5.

Chapter 5, page 20 is new....in the 2nd edition of my Guide...
all the way to Chapter 5, page 37 is new stuff in the 2nd edition.

The bottom left corner of each page,
will tell you
if the page is from the original 2010 1rst edition of my Guide

or

if the page is from the 2nd edition, which I created in 2012.

If you have the original edition,
just print the extra pages in Chapter 5.


----------



## NCBuckNBass

Has anyone ever put together a chart with draw length on one axis ( I guess that matters not sure) and ATA on the other to figure out roughly what you need to be able to touch your nose with the string? I would never consider a bow that wouldn't allow me to do that. My current bow is 34 ATA 7 BH and my draw is 29 and I can do it but wonder if I could with a 33.25 ATA and 6.75 brace height and also if a lower brace height is a factor in this equation at all.


----------



## nuts&bolts

NCBuckNBass said:


> Has anyone ever put together a chart with draw length on one axis ( I guess that matters not sure) and ATA on the other to figure out roughly what you need to be able to touch your nose with the string? I would never consider a bow that wouldn't allow me to do that. My current bow is 34 ATA 7 BH and my draw is 29 and I can do it but wonder if I could with a 33.25 ATA and 6.75 brace height and also if a lower brace height is a factor in this equation at all.


The problem is "...what size nose?"
Next problem is the shape of the face...hat size.

Not possible to create this chart.


----------



## nuts&bolts

NCBuckNBass said:


> Has anyone ever put together a chart with draw length on one axis ( I guess that matters not sure) and ATA on the other to figure out roughly what you need to be able to touch your nose with the string? I would never consider a bow that wouldn't allow me to do that. My current bow is 34 ATA 7 BH and my draw is 29 and I can do it but wonder if I could with a 33.25 ATA and 6.75 brace height and also if a lower brace height is a factor in this equation at all.


The brace height is part of the equation.

The limb tips movement from at rest,
to the full draw position has an effect.

So, it depends if we are talking parallel limb tips
or are we talking past parallel limb tips.

Size of the cam also plays into your question.

Are we talking HUGE, MASSIVE pancake diameter cams
or are we talking smaller diameter cams.

The CAM diameter plays into string angle.


----------



## NCBuckNBass

I knew you were going to say that. That's why we need an AMO nose standard.


----------



## NCBuckNBass

So these longer risers with past parallel limbs may be a 34 ATA but might not work for me even is my old bow with same specs did? The lower the brace the less likely to touch the nose all things else equal?


----------



## nuts&bolts

NCBuckNBass said:


> So these longer risers with past parallel limbs may be a 34 ATA but might not work for me even is my old bow with same specs did? The lower the brace the less likely to touch the nose all things else equal?


Give it a try.
Go and have fun a the pro shop.

IT really depends.

A past parallel, long riser bow, has shorter limbs
and the limb tips (the axles)
swing in a vertical line...

from the at rest to the full draw position.


----------



## nuts&bolts

NCBuckNBass said:


> So these longer risers with past parallel limbs may be a 34 ATA but might not work for me even is my old bow with same specs did? The lower the brace the less likely to touch the nose all things else equal?


If you play with the peep sight position,
maybe higher than your usual...

you might be able to make it work,
and have the string touch your nose.


----------



## NCBuckNBass

My problem is finding bows I want to shoot within a days drive. Slim pickings around here. I wonder if it's not something manufacturers could put in the spec sheet for each bow. Brace height, ATA, speed rating, weight out of the box and STRING ANGLE!


----------



## OhioBoneCrusher

Tagged


----------



## scubaseven

AT News said:


> One of our users "nuts&bolts" put together this pdf called "The Nuts & Bolts of Archery. A Guide to Tuning and Shooting Compound Bows". Check it out!
> 
> At News
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf


Thanks to the guy who did it.

I saw it online and dl it and printed it out.

Well worth a look.


----------



## 337088

Compound bow = over rated


----------



## nuts&bolts

Compound bows are rated quite nicely.

hehehehehehe.


----------



## 337088

So are recurves?


----------



## mknpwr

THEFOREVERMAN said:


> Compound bow = over rated


Don't use one then.....pretty simple.....


----------



## nuts&bolts

THEFOREVERMAN said:


> So are recurves?


Yup. Recurves are very nice. Takes much more practice to shoot a recurve well.
Thar why I coach both styles.


----------



## aread

REcurve, long bow, compound, it's all good 

No reason to disparage any of them. I shoot all 3 on occasion & enjoy each for it's advantages and try to overcome each's deficiencies. It's a fun journey!

Allen


----------



## 337088

Harder = enlightening


----------



## jagger77

Thanks


----------



## jazzydaddy

Hopefully this becomes a DVD soon I'd buy it


----------



## nuts&bolts

jazzydaddy said:


> Hopefully this becomes a DVD soon I'd buy it


If you would like a copy of my DVD,
here is the Pre-Order thread.

Every one who posts in this thread,
that they are interested in the DVD,
then...

they get the SPECIAL Pre-Order discounted price.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1979689&highlight=who+wants+dvd

So,
please post in the thread link above.


----------



## jazzydaddy

I'm going out to sea but I'd like to get the discount and I'll buy the DVD when it's finished


----------



## jazzydaddy

Thank you for giving me the thread I posted I'm off to sea be back in a week


----------



## bwhntr7973

Great guide!


----------



## skullerud

A quick question.
I have paper tuned my arrows, and length and spine is checked and Ok with archers advantage. 
Bare shaft and fletched shafts group great from close up to 18-20m. At 25 the bare shafts group tight 4-5 inches straight right of the fletched arrows. 
Can anyone explain why this is happening, and what I have to do to fix it ?


----------



## MsNipeR

Do yoke tuning! you find thread a bout it here in AT!!


----------



## Olivier COLLET

+1 for yoke tuning:
Place your arrow rest RIB the centre of the handle, then tune the yoke by twisting right or left until you get a perfect tear in paper. 
Then a walk back tuning session from 10 tu 50m and it should be OK
Need some patience but it is worth to do it

Olivier


----------



## skullerud

This is the paper tune I did 5 min before. ..


----------



## skullerud

Got the same tear at 1 5 and 8m. 
But I'll try the yoke tune.


----------



## nuts&bolts

skullerud said:


> Got the same tear at 1 5 and 8m.
> But I'll try the yoke tune.


PAPER tune only gets you SOOO far.

BARESHAFT tuning is MUCH MUCH MUCH more UN-FORGIVING.

Fire a barshaft at 60 yards,
and you will see what I mean.

A bullet hole does NOT mean your bareshafts will even hit the SAME target bale,
60 yards away.

I don't recommend you shoot bareshafts at 60 yards,
NOT until you MASTER shooting bareshafts at 20 yards, and 25 yards.

Then,
you try 30 yards,
then 
you try 35 yards,
then,
you try 40 yards.

You get the idea.


----------



## nuts&bolts

skullerud said:


> Got the same tear at 1 5 and 8m.
> But I'll try the yoke tune.


YOKE Tune is only HALF the answer.
GRIP training is the OTHER half of the answer.

TUNING your bow, SUPER TUNING, FINE TUNING, MICRO TUNING, TUNED or it's NOT TUNED...tuning.
is HALF the answer.

TUNING the shooter,
is the other half of the answer.

ESPECIALLY, arrow rest centershot (down to the thousandths of an inch)
ESPECIALLY tuning the TOP AXLE...by the HALF twist

ESPECIALLY micro-super-duper tuning the bow DRAW LENGTH setting, down to the half twist......AFTER you have the correct DL module, your SWEET SPOT
cuz you gotta get the correct DL module or the correct FIXED DL CAM, to be in the BALL PARK
so AFTER we have the DL in the BALL PARK,

then, we tune the DL by the 1/4-inch, for RESULTS based tuning....ONLY for the AVERAGE JOE
then, we tune the DL by the 1/8th inch, for RESULTS based tuning....ONLY for the AVERAGE JOE
then, we tune the DL by the 1/16th inch, for RESULTS based tuning....ONLY for the AVERAGE JOE
then, we tune the DL by the half twist....for RESULTS based tuning....ONLY for the AVERAGE JOE

THEN,
we work on the GRIP training,
cuz ....

MY SYSTEM,
we tune the bow to the NTH degree,
to get the arrow groups as TIGHT as humanly possible.

THEN,
and ONLY THEN...

after we have a NEW PERSONAL BEST arrow group size,
SMALLER than EVER BEFORE in your life....

groups are HALF your normal size...

then,
we start training the shooter technique,
and cut the group size again...even SMALLER.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Your bareshafts are consistently group together.

Your fletched arrows are also CONSISTENTLY grouping together.

BUT,
you have TWO groups,
instead of ONE.


www.nutsandboltsarchery.com

Your pic
shows that I can cut your arrow groups in HALF,
rather easily.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Try my SIX STEPS to PERFECTION.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2128129

IGNORE the back and forth "stuff".

Look for the GUTS of the thread, the SIX STEPS.

This is only a summary.
Adam929 is a hunter, with a 70 lb Hoyt, and a quiver mounted to his riser.
He calls himself an AVERAGE JOE hunter,
but he wanted to see how far he could get, ACCURACY-WISE.

He drove 2 hrs for his in-person training session.
As you can see, his accuracy improved TREMENDOUSLY.

This is a summary, only, of course.

You can probably figure out the SIX STEPS training technique.

If you would like online instruction...

www.nutsandboltsarchery.com

I have MANY other recipes.

*STABILIZER SETUP in THREE MOVES, for example.*


----------



## nuts&bolts

START.

This is a fresh target face, with 30 shots.

The student has ONE arrow in his quiver.
FIRES the ONE arrow and makes a FRESH hole in the NEW target face.
Hangs up the bow.
Goes to the target and pulls the arrow.

BACK to the shooting line.
Fires his ONE arrow.
Hangs up the bow.
Goes to the target and pulls the arrow.

REPEATS a total of 30 times,
and this is his STARTING arrow hole pattern.


----------



## nuts&bolts

AFTER STEP 1....(Stabilizer Setup in THREE moves)


----------



## nuts&bolts

AFTER STEP 2....(Stabilizer Setup in THREE moves)


----------



## nuts&bolts

AFTER STEP 3....(Stabilizer Setup in THREE moves)



30 SHOTS, one at a time.

DONE.


----------



## nuts&bolts

BEFORE and AFTER.




www.nutsandboltsarchery.com

IF you would like to "taste" some of my recipes.

$25 for a week.
$83.33 for a month.

Unlimited training during that week
or
unlimited training during that month.


----------



## nuts&bolts

BearArcher1980 has been training with my methods, for about a year,
on and off.



This is a single strand of bowstring material.
This is at 5 yards.

This is REAL accuracy, real control.

I usually train at just 10 feet, about 3 yards.








This takes me about 30 minutes to accomplish.


BearArcher1980 wanted some more DIFFICULT training,
so I suggested he try a LONGER distance.

He selected 5 yards, and a single strand of bowstring material.

hehehehehehehehe.

*RESULTS based training.*


----------



## jace

How is the dvd's coming, cant wait for mine, Im itchin to watch it


----------



## nuts&bolts

jace said:


> How is the dvd's coming, cant wait for mine, Im itchin to watch it


workin...workin...working.


----------



## skullerud

Nuts, Will do! Starting on the six steps asap.
Looking very much forward to the dvd.


----------



## skullerud

Trying to follow your step by step bow setup, but have run into a problem when syncing/timing cams. 
The bow is a 2011 Hoyt Vantage Elite plus, with #5 GTX cams. 
Both cables hit the flat spot on the modules at the same time, but I do not have a solid wall unless I overdraw, and get a bend on the cables .
Is the something I am missing here, and what can I do to get the bow to stop when at the flat spot and get the solid wall I'm used to on other bows? or is this just how hoyt cams are?


----------



## nuts&bolts

skullerud said:


> Trying to follow your step by step bow setup, but have run into a problem when syncing/timing cams.
> The bow is a 2011 Hoyt Vantage Elite plus, with #5 GTX cams.
> Both cables hit the flat spot on the modules at the same time, but I do not have a solid wall unless I overdraw, and get a bend on the cables .
> Is the something I am missing here, and what can I do to get the bow to stop when at the flat spot and get the solid wall I'm used to on other bows? or is this just how hoyt cams are?


CREEP TUNE for best results.

Do not set cam sync by "eyeball".

Very simple.

9 meters.

Set your target block or target bag so that the x-ring of a target face is at YOUR exact shoulder height.
Set your sight for 9 meters.
Fire a fletched arrow.

PULL OUT the arrow.

Back to your 9 meter shooting line.

FIRE a bareshaft arrow.
PULL OUT THE BARESHAFT arrow.

LABEL the fletched arrow hole.
LABEL the bareshaft arrow hole.

IF the bareshaft arrow hole is HIGHER or LOWER than the fletched arrow hole,
your CAM SYNC is NOT correct, is NOT in YOUR PERSONAL sweet spot.

MUST UN-SYNC the cams ON PURPOSE.

Find your control cable...top end loop located on the top cam.

You have a 50/50 chance to get this correct.

PICK a direction.
ADD or REMOVE 1/2 twist.

MAke the adjustment.

REPEAT the bareshaft shot.
DID the bareshaft POINT of IMPACT get CLOSER to the EXACT SAME height as the FLETCHED arrow hole?

If you cannot tell,
repeat the adjustment, but DOUBLE the size of the adjustment,
SAME direction of adjustment,
and try CHANGE the TWISTS by 1 FULL TWIST.

REPEAT firing the bareshaft.

IS the height of the bareshaft POINT of IMPACT getting WORSE or BETTER?

So,
continue adding or removing twists on the TOP end loop of your CONTROL cable
until you get the BARESHAFT arrow hole
and the FLETCHED arrow hole at the SAME EXACT HEIGHT.

CAM sync.

RESULTS based tuning.

EYEBALLING only gets you in the BALL PARK.

USE RESULTS based tuning to get it DEAD ON CORRECT.


----------



## nuts&bolts

For my COMPLETE method,
sign up for my ONLINE coaching.

www.nutsandboltsarchery.com

$25 USD for a week of online coaching.

$83.33 USD for a month of online coaching.


----------



## JosephDM

enjoy the read..some very helpful information. I am just getting started and I am trying to identify a release to use...I like the trigger style VS the Back tension.


----------



## skullerud

Will try, but it Sounds like this only is for points maximation. Will this get me a less spongy wall/get rid of the overdraw??


----------



## nuts&bolts

skullerud said:


> Will try, but it Sounds like this only is for points maximation. Will this get me a less spongy wall/get rid of the overdraw??


For detailed help.....

Www.nutsandboltsarchery.com

With no photo...really cannot give specific advice.


----------



## nuts&bolts

skullerud said:


> Will try, but it Sounds like this only is for points maximation. Will this get me a less spongy wall/get rid of the overdraw??


Creep tuning flattens your arrow group.


----------



## skullerud

nuts&bolts said:


> Creep tuning flattens your arrow group.


I know. I have no issues with vertical spread. Even at overseas.
My problem is that when I have reached the bottom of the valley, I.e where the cables are both flat on the drawmodule, I can still pull 1/4" before I hit the "wall", making a bend on three cable at the end of the drawlength module, approx 1" from the cable loop.


----------



## nuts&bolts

skullerud said:


> I know. I have no issues with vertical spread. Even at overseas.
> My problem is that when I have reached the bottom of the valley, I.e where the cables are both flat on the drawmodule, I can still pull 1/4" before I hit the "wall", making a bend on three cable at the end of the drawlength module, approx 1" from the cable loop.


Need a photo. This sounds highly unusual.

Best photo would be with your bow on a draw board...photo of top cam and photo of bottom cam.


----------



## PineLander

Question about Modified French Tuning (Chapter 6-6 thru 6-8) - 

Shoot arrow from 9 Feet. If arrow point misses the string to the *Left*, make a *Left* windage gang adjustment.

But, a little further down the article.... 

Shoot arrow from 6 feet or less (point blank range). If arrow point misses the string to the *Right*, make a *Left* windage gang adjustment.

So.... it is opposite direction when shooting point blank range, compared to 9 feet?


----------



## nuts&bolts

PineLander said:


> Question about Modified French Tuning (Chapter 6-6 thru 6-8) -
> 
> Shoot arrow from 9 Feet. If arrow point misses the string to the *Left*, make a *Left* windage gang adjustment.
> 
> But, a little further down the article....
> 
> Shoot arrow from 6 feet or less (point blank range). If arrow point misses the string to the *Right*, make a *Left* windage gang adjustment.
> 
> So.... it is opposite direction when shooting point blank range, compared to 9 feet?


When shooting at point blank range,
6 feet or 9 feet...any convenient close range distance.

If your arrow misses the weighted string to the LEFT,
you can only move your sight pins in two directions....LEFT or RIGHT.

TRY moving the sights pins LEFT
and your arrow point of impact should move a SKOSH MORE to the right.


If your arrow misses the weighted string to the RIGHT,
you can only move your sight pins in two directions....LEFT or RIGHT.

TRY moving the sights pins RIGHT
and your arrow point of impact should move a SKOSH MORE to the LEFT.


----------



## nuts&bolts

PineLander said:


> Question about Modified French Tuning (Chapter 6-6 thru 6-8) -
> 
> Shoot arrow from 9 Feet. If arrow point misses the string to the *Left*, make a *Left* windage gang adjustment.
> 
> But, a little further down the article....
> 
> Shoot arrow from 6 feet or less (point blank range). If arrow point misses the string to the *Right*, make a *Left* windage gang adjustment.
> 
> So.... it is opposite direction when shooting point blank range, compared to 9 feet?


The purpose of shooting at point blank range (REALLY close)
is to ensure that you can HIT what you are looking at.

IN this case,
you are looking at a weighted string (string with an object tied to the bottom).

You want this result,
when TUNING your sight pins (horizontal position)
when shooting REALLY CLOSE.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Tuning horizontal position of sight pins at POINT BLANK range,
say 6-9 feet
(2-3 yards) in your garage.

LOOK at the single strand of string material.

HIT single strand of string material, with FLETCHED arrow.

When you can HIT what you are looking at,
with a fletched arrow,
at 2-3 yards,
with a FLETCHED arrow...

then,
your sight pins are in the CORRECT sideways position.


----------



## 1Hanyak

looks like more parts than what i would be comfortable having on the table in front of me


----------



## PineLander

nuts&bolts said:


> When shooting at point blank range,
> 6 feet or 9 feet...any convenient close range distance.
> 
> If your arrow misses the weighted string to the LEFT,
> TRY moving the sights pins LEFT
> and your arrow point of impact should move a SKOSH MORE to the right.
> 
> If your arrow misses the weighted string to the RIGHT,
> TRY moving the sights pins RIGHT
> and your arrow point of impact should move a SKOSH MORE to the LEFT.


Okay, thank you for the clarification/correction.


----------



## ashaw

Thank you!


----------



## chris2034

Does any body know anything about the iq sight with the retina lock


----------



## VAbowman

Yeah I have a 5-pin one with .019 pins. I really liked it at first because it truly does give you feedback about how you are anchored to the bow but the vertical adjustment on my retina lock keeps moving after x amount of shots and it no longer has positive clicks when I'm adjusting it so a lot of the time I don't even pay attention to the darn vertical movement in the sight I just make sure its centered side to side. I haven't contacted Field logic yet about the issue because I'm still deer hunting(urban archery) and I don't want to have to take it off and miss the rest of the season. I did register for the warranty so hopefully they will resolve the issue. If not I'll sell it and get a spot hogg, but hopefully it wont come to that because the sight is very accurate, has repeatable adjustments and the sight light(purchased separately) makes the pins insanely bright and you can nearly get away without the light because the pins are bright but you need it for that last true minute of shooting light. Housing and pins are constructed of aluminum, screws are steel and fiber optic housing is a clear hard plastic.


----------



## 337088

Long time no see. 
It's been a ***** age luggy. What's new? I just got banned from a mma site. They are so rude there.


----------



## WheelinArcher

I have learned more so much from your posts that I would feel guilty if I didn't buy your DVD when it comes out...please include me on your list of pre-orders...thanks!


----------



## nuts&bolts

WheelinArcher said:


> I have learned more so much from your posts that I would feel guilty if I didn't buy your DVD when it comes out...please include me on your list of pre-orders...thanks!


Thank you, I will add your name to the LOOOONG thread.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1979689&highlight=who+wants+dvd


----------



## Friertuck

Great info easy to understand thanks to nuts and bolts


----------



## Shooter6

The link isn't working for me!!??


----------



## 337088

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1979689&highlight=who+wants+dvd
Maybe tnis


----------



## CBarden

nevermind worked on different computer. THANKS nuts&bolts for all the info!!


----------



## Jeffrobpse

Great information for guys like me that got a late start into archery. Thanks!


----------



## mathewsz74life

How do u shoot with both eyes opened I tried n see double


----------



## 337088

Jeffrobpse said:


> Great information for guys like me that got a late start into archery. Thanks!


It's never to late to get into trad archery! Good luck!


----------



## 337088

mathewsz74life said:


> How do u shoot with both eyes opened I tried n see double


Try not to focus on the bow or arrow, be one with them and visualize the target in your sight. Your vision should become one when looking at the target. I hope this helped.


----------



## mathewsz74life

Thank u I'm gonna try


----------



## FFmedic129

Thanks for this guide! I am pretty new to shooting and am learning all I can, don't have anyone to shoot with so I learn from reading....When I got a new bow my bow guy thought I could go up another 1/2 inch DL and I did too....Now I'm having issues so I had my wife take these pics. I think maybe it's a tad too long?


----------



## Pushbutton2

My noob observations on your form 
First picture,wooded area, heads leaning forward,
Second picture, elbow appears to be locked.
I've been told both can affect or is it effect accuracy.

Do it the same every time. It's difficult for me at best because I start thinking


----------



## bowhuntingshow

Hey guys make sure you come to the show to see Alan he's going to set up everything you need shooting range the whole deal make plans ROAD trip will see you at the bowHUNTING supershow. WWW.bowhuntingsupershow.com


----------



## nuts&bolts

bowhuntingshow said:


> Hey guys make sure you come to the show to see Alan he's going to set up everything you need shooting range the whole deal make plans ROAD trip will see you at the bowHUNTING supershow. WWW.bowhuntingsupershow.com


I will be at the Bowhunting Super Show,
in Booth #177..

in Columbus, Ohio...
March 21, 22 and 23...2014.

Going to be LOTSA fun.

I will have the Bow-A-Constrictor press ready for folks to learn
hands-on-tuning for their own bows.

Continuous FREE seminar, to all Bowhunting Super Show
attendees.

My booth even has shooting lanes, attached.


----------



## jr80

Thanks for the info. I used the French tuning method to center my shot more. Lots of great info that has helped me shoot much better.


----------



## kwerner2300

I can't wait for the DVD to come out. I have learned so much from your threads. Please include me in your pre-orders. thanks


----------



## Jeffrobpse

THEFOREVERMAN said:


> It's never to late to get into trad archery! Good luck!


Thanks😃


----------



## 337088

Jeffrobpse said:


> Thanks😃


How is it going?


----------



## Jeffrobpse

Good. Had to order a new string set for the bow This weekend at Lancaster Archery. I was having trouble with my peep sight rolling. Two weeks, need to practice.


----------



## 337088

Peep site. Built in string?


----------



## Firefox

What or who is a good arrow source ?

Been awhile since I ordered arrows.

thanks


----------



## 337088

Firefox said:


> What or who is a good arrow source ?
> 
> Been awhile since I ordered arrows.
> 
> thanks


What type? Wood?


----------



## Jeffrobpse

THEFOREVERMAN said:


> Peep site. Built in string?


Yeah with the tube. That was original. I am going to a tubeless, when it's all said and done.


----------



## 337088

Ah, we'll, if you need anything, I'm here or kegan and a few others are here.


----------



## Jeffrobpse

THEFOREVERMAN said:


> Ah, we'll, if you need anything, I'm here or kegan and a few others are here.


Thanks bud


----------



## 337088

Jeffrobpse said:


> Thanks bud


Have any questions while I'm here?


----------



## Jeffrobpse

THEFOREVERMAN said:


> Have any questions while I'm here?


Should I be practicing shooting while in a seated position?


----------



## 337088

I don't, but you can. Are you skilled? If you are, you can to increase adaptability skills.


----------



## Jeffrobpse

THEFOREVERMAN said:


> I don't, but you can. Are you skilled? If you are, you can to increase adaptability skills.


No I'm not skilled. Just starting out, just trying to ask some dumb questions


----------



## 337088

Jeffrobpse said:


> No I'm not skilled. Just starting out, just trying to ask some dumb questions


"No question is dumb question, as long as it is serious"


----------



## Jeffrobpse

THEFOREVERMAN said:


> "No question is dumb question, as long as it is serious"


Thanks for your help. I really appreciate the feedback.

Jeff


----------



## 337088

Gotta love the kind people. 
http://youtu.be/Hbf8PyfVfkc
Trick shooting.


----------



## Jeffrobpse

That's some awesome footage!


----------



## 337088

Bad quality on my end, it's Howard hill. I was going to post more, but I was too lazy,


----------



## Jeffrobpse

Have to watch it when I get home from work so I can hear it.


----------



## 337088

It's only a narrator. So yeah.


----------



## Apollo 1

N & B. I'm setting up for 3-D (targets out to 40 yds). Have 30" shafts dialed in left-right w/ 27.5" draw. Bare shaft hits 8" low at 20 yds. Have not worked the cables much to fix. Wondering if it would be better to add point wt. and cut shaft down to eliminate excessive overhang (limb driver rest). Using TAP to check spine and trying to stay close to 280 fps but shorter shaft would cost me about 5 fps and need to bump up bow from 50.5 to 52.5" (bad shoulders). Any thoughts. Thanks!


----------



## Jeffrobpse

THEFOREVERMAN said:


> It's only a narrator. So yeah.


I know, I just like the old narrators from the 50's


----------



## Apollo 1

Bare shafts are now hitting closer to fletched at 20 yds. Discovered that rest was too low. Last two shots were in X ring but ran out of time to confirm settings are correct (always end on a good shot!). Still wondering if really long arrows are a problem if they are close to correct spine or is it better to have them short and stiff. I'm at about 6 grains per lb or a bit more but prefer to keep poundage low, at least for awhile. Shooting a thumb style release, not a hinge and hunter class equipment.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Apollo 1 said:


> Bare shafts are now hitting closer to fletched at 20 yds. Discovered that rest was too low. Last two shots were in X ring but ran out of time to confirm settings are correct (always end on a good shot!). Still wondering if really long arrows are a problem if they are close to correct spine or is it better to have them short and stiff. I'm at about 6 grains per lb or a bit more but prefer to keep poundage low, at least for awhile. Shooting a thumb style release, not a hinge and hunter class equipment.


Pic of your target...fletched and bareshafts.
Pic of you at full draw, head to toe, arrow dead horizontal.

What bow?

Have you creep tuned?


----------



## 337088

They are straight forward... Right? Did you see all the other vids of hill?


----------



## Apollo 1

*Full length and correct spine or short and stiff?*

Hoyt CRX-32, 27.5" draw (27.25+/-), 50.5#, 278 +/- 1 fps w/ 29.5" (raw shaft) X-Ringer HV 350, 90 gr + 20 gr wt point, 330.0 gr total wt (11.7% F.O.C.), spine about 3# too stiff at 50.5#, perfect at 52.5# per TAP 2. 

I believe the arrow is now about 1/8" above perpendicular. The bow was creep tuned with arrow maybe 1/4" above perpendicular and hitting 8" low with bare shaft at 20 yds. Then rest was moved up till last 2 arrows hit X ring at 20 yds (one bare, one fletched). 

In the pictures, the horizontal arrows were shot at about 10' and leaned about 1/2" to the left (the bow was shooting a bit right). The vertical arrows were shot at 20 yds. I aimed about 1 to 2" below the fletched shaft in the vertical shot picture. 

Would the extra long shafts cause the bare shaft to hit low or do I have a little more creep tuning to do? Or would it be better to shorten the arrows up, even if they are "too stiff" (my form may still need a little work). If so, how long should they be relative to the rest or pivot point of bow handle (there is no plunger hole on this bow and the rest is a "Limb Driver")?


----------



## nuts&bolts

Apollo 1 said:


> Hoyt CRX-32, 27.5" draw (27.25+/-), 50.5#, 278 +/- 1 fps w/ 29.5" (raw shaft) X-Ringer HV 350, 90 gr + 20 gr wt point, 330.0 gr total wt (11.7% F.O.C.), spine about 3# too stiff at 50.5#, perfect at 52.5# per TAP 2.
> 
> I believe the arrow is now about 1/8" above perpendicular. The bow was creep tuned with arrow maybe 1/4" above perpendicular and hitting 8" low with bare shaft at 20 yds. Then rest was moved up till last 2 arrows hit X ring at 20 yds (one bare, one fletched).
> 
> In the pictures, the horizontal arrows were shot at about 10' and leaned about 1/2" to the left (the bow was shooting a bit right). The vertical arrows were shot at 20 yds. I aimed about 1 to 2" below the fletched shaft in the vertical shot picture.
> 
> Would the extra long shafts cause the bare shaft to hit low or do I have a little more creep tuning to do? Or would it be better to shorten the arrows up, even if they are "too stiff" (my form may still need a little work). If so, how long should they be relative to the rest or pivot point of bow handle (there is no plunger hole on this bow and the rest is a "Limb Driver")?


No,
Extra long shafts do not cause the bareshaft to hit low.

1) you are leaning way back

2) you have a significant bow arm elbow bend...bow arm looks like a saucer

Sooo,
if you want to shoot this way,
you make things harder on yourself.

So,
fresh target,
20 yards away.

X-ring at shoulder height.

One FLETCHED arrow in your quiver.

Fire your ONE arrow at the x-ring,
and hang up your bow.

Go pull the ONE arrow
and back to the 20 yard shooting line,
and fire your ONE fletched arrow again.

Repeat for a total of 30 shots.

This gives me an idea of YOUR consistency with a fletched arrow.

Now,
back to the 20 yard shooting line.

FIRE a BARESHAFT arrow,
and mark the hole
and label the hole as BARESHAFT.

Pull the ONE bareshaft out of the target,
AFTER you label the hole as BARESHAFT.

Now,
back to the 20 yard shooting line
and fire the ONE bareshaft again.

LABEL the 2nd BARESHAFT hole as "BARESHAFT".

Now,
take a photo of the target,
with your 30 holes from your FLETCHED arrow,
fired ONE arrow at a time,
30 times....
and
the two labeled BARESHAFT holes.

Never ceases to amaze me...
when folks put the BACK end of an arrow NOCK HIGH,
which means,
the BARESHAFT,
with ZERO STEERING CORRECTION....

when shooters are now SUPRISED that the bareshaft,
with ZERO steering correction,
DRILLS a tunnel through the AIR,
in a DOWNHILL direction,
when they tune their d-loop NOCK HIGH,
so that the arrow is pointed DOWNHILL.

So,
if your bareshaft POINTS downhill,
then,
you are SURPRISED that the bareshaft flies DOWNHILL.

Soo,
NOPE,
the fix is NOT to move the arrow rest UP.

Keep the arrow rest height
so that the middle of the arrow is roughly the same height as the MIDDLE of the arrow rest bolts.

The FIX
is to set the d-loop height CORRECTLY.

The d-loop position,
controls CAM sync,
which controls
IF your bareshafts fly parallel to your front stabilizer
or
IF your bareshafts DRILL a tunnel DOWNHILL in relation to where you are aiming (the x-ring).

CREEP TUNING your control cable
is a way to compensate for a d-loop in the "wrong" position....for YOU,
when YOU shoot the bow.

If YOU shoot the bow,
and your BARESHAFT is NOCK high,
cuz you put the d-loop TAIL HIGH,
and your BARESHAFT is pointed DOWNHILL,
do not be surprised that your bareshaft DRILLS a tunnel,
in the DOWNHILL direction....

which means,
the FLETCHED arrows,
with STEERING CORRECTION, they LEVEL out, cuz you have VANES..

but,
do not be SURPRISED,
when you put the d-loop TAIL HIGH,
that the BARESHAFTS which are TAIL HIGH,
cuz of the TAIL HIGH d-loop...

that a bareshaft that is TAIL HIGH...

that the bareshaft flys NOSE LOW.


MOVING the arrow rest UP or DOWN,
has ZERO effect on cam sync.

Putting the d-loop TAIL HIGH,
has a HUGE effect on cam sync.

So,
when your bareshaft DRILLS a tunnel through the air,
in the DOWNHILL direction,
cuz of a TAIL HIGH d-loop...

moving the arrow rest UP,
is only a band-aid,
and is not the REAL FIX.


----------



## Apollo 1

Ok. Same arrow 30 shots plus two with same bare shaft at 20 yds. First 10 arrows created a diagonal line about 8:00 to 2:00. Please note that photo shows bent left arm. I tried to keep left arm straight for this exercise.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Apollo 1 said:


> Ok. Same arrow 30 shots plus two with same bare shaft at 20 yds. First 10 arrows created a diagonal line about 8:00 to 2:00. Please note that photo shows bent left arm. I tried to keep left arm straight for this exercise.


Post a pic of the form you used,
to shoot the target you shot, at 20 yards.

So,
NEW photo, with the straighter LEFT arm...

and
try the 30 shot exercise at 5 yards. You are not ready for 20 yards.

The goal of the 30 shot stress test is to use a training distance,
that is a NO brainer distance,
a distance where ALL shots are INSIDE the x-ring.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Apollo 1 said:


> Ok. Same arrow 30 shots plus two with same bare shaft at 20 yds. First 10 arrows created a diagonal line about 8:00 to 2:00. Please note that photo shows bent left arm. I tried to keep left arm straight for this exercise.


Since bareshafts are hitting LOW,
change your cam sync,
until you can get a FLETCHED arrow to make a hole
and
you can get a BARESHAFT to make a hole, both at the SAME height for point of impact,
at 5 yards...

then,
at 10 yards.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Apollo 1 said:


> Ok. Same arrow 30 shots plus two with same bare shaft at 20 yds. First 10 arrows created a diagonal line about 8:00 to 2:00. Please note that photo shows bent left arm. I tried to keep left arm straight for this exercise.


I have an even BETTER exercise,
I used at the Bow Hunting Super show.

START at 3 FEET,
yes, 1 YARD.

Fresh target face.
Duct tape shooting line.

FIRE a fletched arrow at an aiming point.

Then,
PULL out the fletched arrow. You have ONE hole in the target face.
LABEL the fletched arrow hole with a sharpie pen.

Now,
step up to the duct tape shooting line,
and aim at the same aiming point.

FIRE a bareshaft.

Your mission,
is to UNSYNC your cams, ON PURPOSE,
until you can NAIL the EXACT same hole....just 1 yard away.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Apollo 1 said:


> Ok. Same arrow 30 shots plus two with same bare shaft at 20 yds. First 10 arrows created a diagonal line about 8:00 to 2:00. Please note that photo shows bent left arm. I tried to keep left arm straight for this exercise.


AFTER you can DRILL a bareshaft
into the SAME hole, as the fletched arrow hole...
from a 1 YARD shooting line...

then,
try again at 2 yards.

If your BARESHAFT misses HIGH or LOW,
even one arrow diameter away from the FLETCHED arrow hole...

then,
UNSYNC your cams, ON PURPOSE,
until you can DRILL a bareshaft into the SAME fletched arrow hole,
from a 2 YARD shooting line.


----------



## nuts&bolts

You get the idea.


----------



## Owl Creek

Hey nuts.
any ideal when is the DVD going to be done? the tuning one.
thanks 
Steve


----------



## nuts&bolts

Owl Creek said:


> Hey nuts.
> any ideal when is the DVD going to be done? the tuning one.
> thanks
> Steve


Soon.

In Hawaii for my father-in-law's funeral.
I get back on Apr 23.

Back to work on the DVD, when I get back.


----------



## Owl Creek

Good deal thanks


----------



## The iron man

Your feet should be shoulder wide try that


----------



## ZuluWhiskeyFox

Without having to read through all the posts is there someplace I can download the most current version. On the first page of this thread there is a link to a relatively current version. But not the most. One example I'm aware of is in say chapter 5. The linked version in chapter goes to 5-13 while there are links to more pages up to 5-31. All separate downloads. I'm sure there are more like this. Is there a link that has everything compiled together.


----------



## nuts&bolts

ZuluWhiskeyFox said:


> Without having to read through all the posts is there someplace I can download the most current version. On the first page of this thread there is a link to a relatively current version. But not the most. One example I'm aware of is in say chapter 5. The linked version in chapter goes to 5-13 while there are links to more pages up to 5-31. All separate downloads. I'm sure there are more like this. Is there a link that has everything compiled together.


The 2012 version is here.

I added more pages to Chapter 5.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/byyycyrxq... Archery 2012 Updated version (Neuralgia).pdf

Total of 177 pages.


----------



## ZuluWhiskeyFox

nuts&bolts said:


> The 2012 version is here.
> 
> I added more pages to Chapter 5.
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/byyycyrxq... Archery 2012 Updated version (Neuralgia).pdf
> 
> Total of 177 pages.


Great. Thank you for the link.


----------



## Dan Zawacki

> Disabled link
> Access to this link has been disabled. Please ask the owner of the shared link to send a new link to access the file or the folder.


I don't can re download


----------



## nuts&bolts

Dan Zawacki said:


> I don't can re download


https://www.dropbox.com/home?select=The+Nuts+&+Bolts+Of+Archery+2012+Updated+version.pdf

New link for 2012 edition of my GUIDE to Shooting and Tuning Compound Bows.
177 pages.

Lower left corner tells you if that page is from the 2010 ORIGINAL edition
or
if you are on the new extra pages, added to Chapter 5, at the end, in 2012.


----------



## Stanley2

Hi is there a trick to downloading the file? I had already read the original.

Thanks


----------



## Dan Zawacki

I am wondering the same, the new link just directs me to either sign in or create a dropbox account. I tried creating an account to see if now we might need to have dropbox accounts to download something a member shares, but it still just brings me to dropbox home page.

Nuts, you may have to re-check how dropbox links work? did they change them?


----------



## nuts&bolts

Dan Zawacki said:


> I am wondering the same, the new link just directs me to either sign in or create a dropbox account. I tried creating an account to see if now we might need to have dropbox accounts to download something a member shares, but it still just brings me to dropbox home page.
> 
> Nuts, you may have to re-check how dropbox links work? did they change them?


https://www.dropbox.com/s/fiuvta0rytqyfur/The Nuts & Bolts Of Archery 2012 Updated version.pdf

This should lead you to a page where you can download
the 2012 edition of my Guide to Shooting and Tuning Compound Bows.

177 pages.


----------



## Taco_seasoning

I get this error


----------



## nuts&bolts

Try this link.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fiuvta0rytqyfur/The Nuts & Bolts Of Archery 2012 Updated version.pdf


----------



## Polls822

Hey all. The link wasn't working yesterday but I just tried and it took me straight to where you can click to download the PDF. Mine worked and I have it on my computer now. 

Thanks again!


----------



## Stanley2

Thanks a lot the link is working.


----------



## stickman6

Hmmm. I still get error message on all links above.


----------



## nuts&bolts

stickman6 said:


> Hmmm. I still get error message on all links above.


Send me a pm with your email
and I can send to you directly.


----------



## nuts&bolts

stickman6 said:


> Hmmm. I still get error message on all links above.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/fiuvta0ryt... version.pdf


This link works.
Not sure if you need to sign up for a DropBox account...first.


----------



## stickman6

Not sure what's up. I have a Dropbox account already.


----------



## nuts&bolts

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fiuvta0rytqyfur/The Nuts & Bolts Of Archery 2012 Updated version.pdf

Post #568 link does not work for me either.

Post #563 does work for me.

I will download the link and send to you via pm,
and let's see if that works.


----------



## nuts&bolts

stickman6 said:


> Not sure what's up. I have a Dropbox account already.


Downloaded the link from DropBox
and sent to you via pm.

Let me know if the link works.


----------



## simply4est

Thanks for putting this out! :thumbs_up 

Forest


----------



## MichaelGentry

I have a question......if I bareshaft and group tight at 25 yards do I need to tune further as I have no yoke and all other measures would be rest tuning


----------



## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> I have a question......if I bareshaft and group tight at 25 yards do I need to tune further as I have no yoke and all other measures would be rest tuning


No yoke cable binary cam bow.

YOu can make the bowstring longer.
YOU can make the bowstring shorter.
You can make the d-loop longer.
You can make the d-loop shorter.

You can group tune the arrow rest at 35 yards,
at 45 yards,
at 55 yards,
at 65 yards,
at 80 yards (max NFAA field archery distance)
at 100 yards = 90 meters (old FITA distance for men's division).

If you are happy with your groups at 25 yards...
then, YOU are done.

If you want to cut your groups in HALF,
whatever the current size of your groups...

then,
you are not done.


----------



## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> I have a question......if I bareshaft and group tight at 25 yards do I need to tune further as I have no yoke and all other measures would be rest tuning


Are you busting nocks at 25 yards?
Do you want to bust nocks at 25 yards?

Would you like bareshafts stuffing into the middle of your 35 yard groups?

Soo,
there is GOOD enough,
and then...

there is the next level.


----------



## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> I have a question......if I bareshaft and group tight at 25 yards do I need to tune further as I have no yoke and all other measures would be rest tuning


There is tiller tuning, as well.


----------



## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> I have a question......if I bareshaft and group tight at 25 yards do I need to tune further as I have no yoke and all other measures would be rest tuning


There is my Bow Hand Grip training.


----------



## nuts&bolts

MichaelGentry said:


> I have a question......if I bareshaft and group tight at 25 yards do I need to tune further as I have no yoke and all other measures would be rest tuning


There is my DRILL a TUNNEL exercise.

SOoooo much more you can do,
if you want to see how much more accurate,
you can get.


----------



## MichaelGentry




----------



## MichaelGentry

Sorry was wanting form help


----------



## carch4

great info


----------



## KaiG

Wow! Thanks a lot for this great resource!


----------



## K2man

Great info here!


----------



## charbo6

Solid information for a beginning archer, glad this was a sticky and a great read!

Cheers!


----------



## Roger Towery Jr

hi i have a old shakespear recurve been many years since i shoot but i need help to where to mount a sight on there .cany any one help me with this on the mesurements for this. my e-mail is [email protected] thank you and have a great day.


----------



## Bowhuntinarky

Is this copyrighted? Use by permission? Great resource! I was trying to explain paper tuning to a guy I work with, whose eyes immediately glazed over, I think I'll direct him to this.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Bowhuntinarky said:


> Is this copyrighted? Use by permission? Great resource! I was trying to explain paper tuning to a guy I work with, whose eyes immediately glazed over, I think I'll direct him to this.


Have the fella register and join up ArcheryTalk, and he can download the Guide.
The 2010 edition is on Page 1 of the thread.....about 150+ pages.

The 2012 edition,
I added more pages to Chapter 5. So, the 2012 edition is 177 pages.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fiuvta0rytqyfur/The Nuts & Bolts Of Archery 2012 Updated version.pdf?dl=0

This thread has been viewed over 274,000 times since Jan 2011.
Feel free to print out a copy, just make sure you have LOTS of paper.

As far as I know, my Nuts&Bolts Guide has been translated into at least 2 languages.


----------



## Slippy Field

My bow was shooting good until I replaced my dloop. Now its almost 2" high and 2" right. How would a new loop affect me left and right?


----------



## DonsHarley

It may not be the same lenght which would change your anchor point and without using tied nock sets the loop is not installed in the same exact place as your previuos loop.


----------



## Slippy Field

DonsHarley said:


> It may not be the same lenght which would change your anchor point and without using tied nock sets the loop is not installed in the same exact place as your previuos loop.


so move my sight or my rest? Sight I assume?


----------



## nuts&bolts

Slippy Field said:


> so move my sight or my rest? Sight I assume?


Right handed shooter.
LONGER d-loop,
you will miss to the right.

Simple.

Undo ONE d-loop knot,
and cut off the melted ball. Tie a new d-loop knot,
and make a new 1/4-inch diameter cotton ball,
and melt a NEW ball. Re-tie the new d-loop knot.

NEW d-loop is now shorter.

Put the jaws of a set of needlenose pliers
and then STRETCH tight.


----------



## nuts&bolts

*It's been a good run for the FREE GUIDE to Shooting and Tuning Compound Bows*

Well,
it's been a good run.

The FREE GUIDE has been viewed an amazing number of times, worldwide.

2010 edition. You can find that on PAGE 1 of this thread.

*2012 edition. Here you go. I added extra pages to the BACK end of Chapter 15. Total of 177 pages,
and LOTS and LOTS of pictures.*

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fiuvta0rytqyfur/The Nuts & Bolts Of Archery 2012 Updated version.pdf?dl=0

If you need more help,
see me at my website,
for online coaching...custom coaching.

www.nutsandboltsarchery.com

I am working on a DVD.
The DVD is the "movie" version of my guide,
and I cover the material in the FREE GUIDE
and I cover new material that I have developed during my online coaching for my students
and I cover new material that I have developed for my group seminars.

I will go anywhere in the country,
to do a group seminar,
as long as there is a place to talk and shoot.

I am trying out the mini-seminar format in Florida, in October 2014.
Only 10 folks. The seminar sold out in hours.

If you want the SALE price for my DVD,
the $25 Pre Order SALE price...

send me an email.

*[email protected]*

I need first and last name.
I need AT username.
I need a full shipping address.

This is so I can get a head start on HAND TYPING the thousands of mailing labels.

We will figure out how to send money LATER.
I need to upgrade my website to handle domestic and international payments.

Thanks folks.


----------



## K2man

Alan, I downloaded from the link above for the 2012 edition. The footer says 2010.


----------



## dad2sixmonkeys

Tagged since it's no longer a stickie


----------



## XMidwayX

Tag


----------



## [email protected]

How did it fall out of sticky?


----------



## nuts&bolts

K2man said:


> Alan, I downloaded from the link above for the 2012 edition. The footer says 2010.


2012 edition link is here.
177 pages. I added extra material at the back end of Chapter 5.
This way, folks can see by the footer, what pages to print,
to get there 2010 edition up to the full 2012 edition.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fiuvta0rytqyfur/The Nuts & Bolts Of Archery 2012 Updated version.pdf?dl=0


----------



## cnvf250

[email protected] said:


> How did it fall out of sticky?


I was wondering the same thing.


----------



## ikhmalok

you're my sifu Alan, thanks.


----------



## Diesel44

great info. Learning a lot here.


----------



## azhntr

Great info


----------



## Beat~

a good read
very informative


----------



## cterbow

tagged


----------



## Ronon

Any update on the DVD?


----------



## nuts&bolts

Ronon said:


> Any update on the DVD?


yes,
constant updates in the DVD thread.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1979689&page=214


----------



## steve101610

Tagged


----------



## nuts&bolts

Ronon said:


> Any update on the DVD?


Planning on PayPal and major credit cards....so domestic and international e-commerce should be easy.
Got the pallet of shipping boxes...USPS Priority Mail.

Got gobs of shipping labels. Website developer is setting up shipping software manager and payment processing.
Plan to pick up DVD sets Jan 23, 2015. Grinding away on download version.

Almost there.


----------



## nuts&bolts

nuts&bolts said:


> yes,
> constant updates in the DVD thread.
> 
> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1979689&page=214


JUst received a PALLET of USPS Priority Mail, FLAT rate boxes.

Now gotta move the thousands of boxes, into the house.
Must finish the copyright application with the feds.
Must finish e-commerce upgrade for the website.

Must finish CHOPPING up the ORIGINAL Blu Ray files, into FIVE pieces...and format per Vimeo specifications....SORRY, Vimeo does not support Menu Driven Downloadable DVD files.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Ronon said:


> Any update on the DVD?


DVD discs are being replicated.
ETA for Thousands of DVD sets, is Jan 23, 2015.
I pick up the DVD sets on Jan 23, 2015.

Then,
if my website is finished for upgraded to massive e-commerce,
then..

I send LOTS and LOTS of emails to eVERYONE on my list,
world-wide
an email with PAYMENT instructions.

FIRST come FIRST serve.

WHO-ever pays first,
gets their DVD set SHIPPED first.

Do not send me any payment...NOT YET.

I have to get my ducks in a row
and the website is not ready yet.

SOON folks.

SOON.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Ronon said:


> Any update on the DVD?
> 
> 
> 
> nuts&bolts said:
Click to expand...


----------



## nuts&bolts

Ronon said:


> Any update on the DVD?


You have not sent me an email,
so if you do not send me an email VERY VERY SOON...

then,
you are going to miss out on the $25 USD plus mailing costs PRE-ORDER pricing.

IN the email YOU need to send to me...at 

[email protected]

*1) first and last name
2) AT username
3) full SHIPPING ADDRESS*


----------



## nuts&bolts

Ronon said:


> Any update on the DVD?


----------



## nuts&bolts

Ronon said:


> Any update on the DVD?


Folks,
SEND ME AN EMAIL.

Please
do NOT send me a pm message.

I am having my website massively upgraded for e-commerce
and will have a software package which converts all EMAIL orders into automatic shipping labels. So, pm messages do not work.

Lemme know soon
if you want the MENU driven HARD DVD Three Disc SET....

cuz the Download version, will be DISC #1 as a download file, with NO MENU...cuz Vimeo does not support menu driven web DVDs
and DISC #2 as a download file, with NO MENU
and DISC #3 as a download file, with NO MENU.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Ronon said:


> Any update on the DVD?


OK.

DOWNLOAD VERSION on Vimeo.com

Since Vimeo does not support Menu based Web DVDs...
I can only upload straight Blu Ray H.264 video files, no menu structure.

Gonna make the Nuts & Bolts Guide To Tuning and Shooting Compound Bows - THE DVD...into FIVE separate Downloads.

*DOWNLOAD FILE #1 on Vimeo.com
(no, not ready yet...gonna release the Download and the DVD DISC sets on the same date...)*

CHAPTER 1 - INTRO
1.....INTRO
2.....SHOOTER AND THE BOW ARE A PUZZLE

3.....LET'S ASSEMBLE YOUR BOW
4.....STARTING SIDEWAYS POSITION - ARROW REST

5.....STARTING VERTICAL POSITION - ARROW REST
6.....D-LOOP INSTALL POSITION

7.....TIED NOCKING POINTS FOR D-LOOP
8.....INSTALL D-LOOP AND NEVER MOVE IT AGAIN (reference point, try multiple positions, and tune around d-loop position)

9.....CHECK FOR LEVEL TOP AXLE AT FULL DRAW
10....BOTTOM OF YOKE LEGS ALL TWISTED UP

11....CHECK BOW DRAW LENGTH SETTING
12....ESTIMATE BOW DRAW LENGTH SIZE FOR SHOOTER

13....BOW DRAW LENGTH LABELS RARELY ACCURATE
14....CONFIRM BOW DRAW LENGTH IN DRAW BOARD

CHAPTER 2 - TOOLS
15....PORTABLE TUNING STATION
16....BINARY CABLES TUNING TRICK, SAG METHOD

17....CHECK D-LOOP, LEVEL OR TAIL HIGH
18....DRAW BOARD DETAILS


----------



## nuts&bolts

Ronon said:


> Any update on the DVD?


OK.

DOWNLOAD VERSION on Vimeo.com

Since Vimeo does not support Menu based Web DVDs...
I can only upload straight Blu Ray H.264 video files, no menu structure.

Gonna make the Nuts & Bolts Guide To Tuning and Shooting Compound Bows - THE DVD...into FIVE separate Downloads.

*DOWNLOAD FILE #2 on Vimeo.com
(no, not ready yet...gonna release the Download and the DVD DISC sets on the same date...)*

CHAPTER 3 - FORM, PART 1
19....FINALLY, WE FIRE FIRST ARROW
20....NOW 10 YARDS, FLETCHED AND BARESHAFT

21....NOW, 20 YARDS, FLETCHED AND BARESHAFT
22....STARTING SIDEWAYS POSITION - ARROW REST

23....BARESHAFT DRAW LENGTH TEST
24....REASONABLE FORM TO TRUST BARESHAFT RESULTS

25....FORM AND STANCE
26....NEWBIE, 30 DAYS, BUSTING NOCKS

27....COPY FAVORITE PRO SHOOTER?
28....BASICS OF FORM

29....NUTS&BOLTS DRAW LENGTH TEST
30....DRAW LENGTH TOO LONG OR TOO SHORT?

CHAPTER 4 - FORM, PART 2
31....DRAW LENGTH, FORM AND STUCK LOW?
32....ANCHOR POINT

33....HEAD ROTATION
34....WEIGHT ON LEGS, AND BOW SIDE UPPER ARM

35....BOW HAND GRIP TECHNIQUE
36....TOTAL SPREAD DISTANCE

37....TRIANGLE FORMATION
38....PARACORD LOOP TRAINER

39....RELEASE ELBOW INLINE OR NOT?
40....FINGERS SHOOTERS AND ARCHER'S PARADOX

41....BROADHEADS MISS TO RIGHT OF FIELD POINTS
42....TUNE DRAW LENGTH TO QUARTER INCH


----------



## nuts&bolts

Ronon said:


> Any update on the DVD?


OK.

DOWNLOAD VERSION on Vimeo.com

Since Vimeo does not support Menu based Web DVDs...
I can only upload straight Blu Ray H.264 video files, no menu structure.

Gonna make the Nuts & Bolts Guide To Tuning and Shooting Compound Bows - THE DVD...into FIVE separate Downloads.

*DOWNLOAD FILE #3 on Vimeo.com
(no, not ready yet...gonna release the Download and the DVD DISC sets on the same date...)*

CHAPTER 5 - TUNING AND STABS
43....GROUP TUNE ARROW REST
44....CAM SYNC TUNING

45....FRONT STABILIZER ONLY
46....STRESS TEST, 30 SHOTS, ONE ARROW

47....STABILIZER TUNING IN THREE MOVES

CHAPTER 6 - DRILLS
48....ADVANCED TRAINING

CHAPTER 7 - FINE TUNING GROUPS
49....YOKE TUNING

CHAPTER 8 - D-LOOP, RESTS, PEEP SIGHT
50....D LOOP INSTALL
51....KITCHEN TABLE METHOD, BLADE REST SETUP
52....DROP AWAY ARROW REST SETUP

53....PEEP SIGHT ROTATION


----------



## nuts&bolts

Ronon said:


> Any update on the DVD?


OK.

DOWNLOAD VERSION on Vimeo.com

Since Vimeo does not support Menu based Web DVDs...
I can only upload straight Blu Ray H.264 video files, no menu structure.

Gonna make the Nuts & Bolts Guide To Tuning and Shooting Compound Bows - THE DVD...into FIVE separate Downloads.

*DOWNLOAD FILE #4 on Vimeo.com
(no, not ready yet...gonna release the Download and the DVD DISC sets on the same date...)*

*CHAPTER 9 - TARGET PANIC*
54....TARGET PANIC


----------



## nuts&bolts

Ronon said:


> Any update on the DVD?


OK.

DOWNLOAD VERSION on Vimeo.com

Since Vimeo does not support Menu based Web DVDs...
I can only upload straight Blu Ray H.264 video files, no menu structure.

Gonna make the Nuts & Bolts Guide To Tuning and Shooting Compound Bows - THE DVD...into FIVE separate Downloads.

*DOWNLOAD FILE #5 on Vimeo.com
(no, not ready yet...gonna release the Download and the DVD DISC sets on the same date...)*

CHAPTER 10 - BACK TENSION
55....BACK TENSION

CHAPTER 11 - HINGE, RELEASE NECK, FINGER CURL, THIRD AXIS, PORTABLE PRESS
56....HINGE RELEASE

57....RELEASE NECK LENGTH
58....FINGER CURL AROUND HINGE RELEASE

59....THIRD AXIS TUNING
60....SYNUNM PORTABLE PRESS

CHAPTER 12 - EXEC SUMMARY
61....NUTS&BOLTS DVD, THE SHORT VERSION


----------



## nuts&bolts

FIVE DOWNLOADS for the Entire Nuts&Bolts DVD.

I will upload to Vimeo.com

Sorry, Vimeo does not support menu driven DVDs.

I will set EACH download at $5 USD, for the PRE-ORDER pricing.

*What this means
IF YOU SENT ME an email,
you will get a discount code...*

to use with Vimeo.com
which I will send back to you BY EMAIL.

The full retail price is going to be higher.
The price on Vimeo.com will be the full RETAIL price.

When you plug in the discount code,
you get the PRE-ORDER pricing.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Just dropped off North American NTSC DVD discs for replication.
Just dropped off International PAL DVD discs for replication.

Should be finished Jan 23, 2015.

Hope to have my website upgraded for e-commerce by then.

Everyone who sends me an EMAIL...qualifies for PRE-ORDER PRICING.
$25 USD plus mailing costs.

3 hrs 37 minutes
3 Disc Set...

12 chapters
61 topics
Custom menu.....as requested on the DVD DISC SET only

Unfortunately
the Download version has no menu...Vimeo does not support menu driven downloadable video files

Soooo DOWNLOAD VERSION will be FIVE files.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Three DVD disc set.
3 hrs 37 minutes
12 chapters
61 topics

I dropped off the THREE Master Discs earlier this morning at the replicator company.
Ordered a WHOLE bunch of NTSC DVD discs (North American distribution).
Ordered enough PAL DVDs for International distribution.

I plan to pickup the DVDs Jan 23, 2015.
Hope to have my website ready to launch, for world-wide e-commerce.

When I have the DVDs, and when my website is ready to launch,
*I will send out an email to ALL of you folks, 

who SENT ME AN EMAIL...*

and in the email,
I will send out payment instructions for the DVD DISC folks...

and
I will send out the discount code for the DOWNLOAD folks
cuz the download version will be on Vimeo.com.

I will chop up the Download version into FIVE separate files,
cuz Vimeo will not support Menu Style Downloadable DVD files.


----------



## nuts&bolts

*Quote Originally Posted by big bone hunter View Post
I'm on pre order
at least I should be... Can you make sure I'm in for the actual DVD (As in a hard disc, not downloaded)? 
Thank you for all your hard work... I'll be a first timer, never seen any of your work (and to be quite honest I don't really know what I'm getting LOL) but every body says your great, so I'm going to get one!
BBH*


I have a FREE Guide that I created in 2010.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1399457

The thread for my 2010 edition of my FREE GUIDE has been viewed 309,000 times.
150+ pages and LOTS and LOTS of pictures.

So,
I updated my FREE Guide in 2012. I added more pages to the end of Chapter 5.
Now, 177 pages.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fiuvta0ryt...rsion.pdf?dl=0

Sooo,
the DVD was a request from folks who could not attend my first in person seminar,
back in 2013. They wanted a DVD version of my FREE GUIDE and they wanted my seminar material to be in the DVD, as well.

I have custom coaching online, as well,
and have online students worldwide. So, some of my custom coaching material, that I developed for my ONLINE students
is also in the DVD.


----------



## nuts&bolts

I was up at 4am yesterday, (Jan 14, 2015)
trying to make deadline (11am) for the replicator
and was creating the PAL version of the DVD.

DIDn't make it. Worked on the PAL version of the DVD DISC from 4am to 7pm STRAIGHT.

NOW,
I am working on the DOWNLOAD version, custom formatted for Vimeo, per their spec.

Making clips is not on my to do list.

You can look at my 30,000+ posts to get an idea
or
just check out the How's My Form thread for LadyBowhunter12.

Scrambling to do the homework, for the WEbsite Developer.

Working on FREE newsletters for my upgraded website, so also writing articles, LIKE MAD.

Doing the copyright stuff, at the same time.

Setting up shipping software, credit card processor, waiting on a pallet of shipping boxes from USPS, etc...etc...etc.


----------



## dhom

Looking forward to this!


----------



## aread

nuts&bolts said:


> JUst received a PALLET of USPS Priority Mail, FLAT rate boxes.
> 
> Now gotta move the thousands of boxes, into the house.
> Must finish the copyright application with the feds.
> Must finish e-commerce upgrade for the website.
> 
> Must finish CHOPPING up the ORIGINAL Blu Ray files, into FIVE pieces...and format per Vimeo specifications....SORRY, Vimeo does not support Menu Driven Downloadable DVD files.


Does this mean that you know the shipping costs now?


----------



## nuts&bolts

aread said:


> Does this mean that you know the shipping costs now?


You can look up the USPS Priority Mail Flat Rate Shipping costs to get an idea.
Not sure if the USPS Priority Mail Flat Rate Shipping costs vary from area to area.

I will figure out shipping
when the DVD sets are picked up on Jan 23, 2015
and
after the website is upgraded for e-commerce.

When I have a total price
when the website is up and running
when my shipping manager software is up and running and communicating with the order collection software
and my database...

when EVERYTHING is running

then,
I will send out an email with payment instructions.

THOUSANDS of DVD sets need to be picked up on Jan 23, 2015.
Website developer is working like mad.
I am creating the download files, for Vimeo in the NTSC format.
I am creating the download files, for Vimeo in the PAL format.

My legal folks are on my back to finish the Copyright Application process.

I have thousands of flat packed shipping boxes in a bedroom.
Need to figure out where to put the inventory and create a shipping workflow.
Gotta setup the printer for the shipping labels.

Must reconcile thousands of domestic and international shipping address, check for typos, and proper international address format.
Must figure out customs forms for international shipping.


----------



## nuts&bolts

aread said:


> Does this mean that you know the shipping costs now?


short version, not yet.


----------



## mjdfrye

Tag


----------



## nuts&bolts

I have the DVDs......



FIRST to PAY,
FIRST to ship.

PayPal
Shipping to 50 States USA first.

Website not quite ready yet.

$31 USD PayPal only for now
[email protected]


----------



## rdraper_3

I just sent my payment


----------



## tered

Payment sent.


----------



## littlenoz

Payment sent


----------



## skullerud

So will you email us when your ready to ship to Europe?


----------



## logjim63

Payment sent


----------



## fortyx

payment sent for 2 sets.


----------



## aeasley10

Payment sent Tues evening


----------



## nuts&bolts

skullerud said:


> So will you email us when your ready to ship to Europe?


I will be ready when the WEBsite is ready.

Website should be LIVE very soon.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Printing SOOOOOOO many shipping labels.
Might need a BIGGER truck.


----------



## 10%FOC

Sent email this morning and payment sent shortly after. Very excited for this!


----------



## skullerud

Credit card payment from website doesn't work, and paypal says only US payment, So what do I do now? 
Would really prefer paypal payment, even if I'm paying for shipping to Norway.


----------



## Bearlee

I added money to my Paypal account the other day when I saw this thread but am having to wait on it to clear the bank, still 3 days out. I saw an email that said pricing good to Jan 30, will that cause me to loose out since my paypal was not loaded up?


----------



## nuts&bolts

skullerud said:


> Credit card payment from website doesn't work, and paypal says only US payment, So what do I do now?
> Would really prefer paypal payment, even if I'm paying for shipping to Norway.


Send me an email ([email protected])
with your shipping address.

[email protected]

I can plug in your address
and figure out shipping manually.

Then,
I can give you a custom quote
and you can use PayPal to my business email address.

[email protected] for direct PayPal payment.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Bearlee said:


> I added money to my Paypal account the other day when I saw this thread but am having to wait on it to clear the bank, still 3 days out. I saw an email that said pricing good to Jan 30, will that cause me to loose out since my paypal was not loaded up?


Don't worry about pricing.

I will keep pricing at this level
until I am SURE that ALL AT folks are taken care of.


----------



## tered

Okay I am sure that we have said this but Thank you for all of your hard work.


----------



## tered

Got my dvds and my wife will hate me for next 8 hours. Love this stuff


----------



## Ijaw

tered said:


> Got my dvds and my wife will hate me for next 8 hours. Love this stuff


Same here :darkbeer:


----------



## tered

What a great tool to learn and tune a bow. Thanks again


----------



## Fendrick

Tagged


----------



## Bowhunter_25

Where is the pdf link need help tuning stabilizers


----------



## Honeymonster

here's the pdf link: http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf


----------



## davis1613

Tagged


----------



## nuts&bolts

davis1613 said:


> Tagged


Here is the 2012 updated edition.
I added more material to the end of Chapter 5.
Now, 177 pages.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fiuvta0rytqyfur/The Nuts & Bolts Of Archery 2012 Updated version.pdf?dl=0


----------



## tered

Bow tuning with my great dvd from nuts&bolts. New strings made on my BAP string jig and peep tuning at 4 yards. Love this stuff.


----------



## skullerud

A quick question. 
I'm trying to bareshaft tune my bowtech cpxl, after watching my new dvds. 
And the bareshaft groups great out to 25 yards, but after that it hits left. 
Not sure why this is happening, so was hoping for some hints on what to try.


----------



## nuts&bolts

tered said:


> Bow tuning with my great dvd from nuts&bolts. New strings made on my BAP string jig and peep tuning at 4 yards. Love this stuff.


EXCELLENT shooting.

Send me an email, if you ever have any questions.


----------



## nuts&bolts

skullerud said:


> A quick question.
> I'm trying to bareshaft tune my bowtech cpxl, after watching my new dvds.
> And the bareshaft groups great out to 25 yards, but after that it hits left.
> Not sure why this is happening, so was hoping for some hints on what to try.


Send me an email,
and we can figure it out. Bareshaft shooting after 25 yards...like 30 yards, like 40 yards...
this is more a test of shooter technique...shooter form/execution consistency.

I have some exercises you can try...training
that will help your long range shot execution consistency...

cuz, that is what you are testing, when you try and get several bareshafts to fly into the fletched arrow group,
at 30 yards, at 40 yards.


----------



## tered

Thanks i need a little warmer weather. I am going to the indy deer and turkey expo tomorrow. I will be at the archery club this weekend for some more yards to tune. This stuff is awesome.


----------



## tered

This was my bare shaft rest.


----------



## tered

How good or bad is my form.


----------



## nuts&bolts

tered said:


> How good or bad is my form.


Relax, flatten your right wrist.
If you DUCT tape a ruler to your right forearm, I would prefer to see the ruler fully contact the entire forearm
and
fully touch the back of your hand.

Would like to see the ROD or strap connection between the wrist strap and the trigger, a 1/4-inch CLOSER, so you can HOOK your pointer finger.

Shorter distance between wrist strap and the trigger,
also makes your RIGHT ELBOW CLOSER to the riser.

SHORTER reach to the trigger
makes the ELBOW closer to the riser, makes the RIGHT forearm MORE downhill....like these examples.

SHORTER reach to the trigger also will allow your RIGHT forearm to SWING like a door around your shoulder, a COUNTER CLOCKWISE swing for your RIGHT elbow

want your RIGHT elbow, RIGHT forearm to SWING like a door
so your RIGHT forearm points MORE NORTH WEST...if your FRONT stabilizer is pointing DUE NORTH.

THIS will tighten your FLETCHED group size
this will MOVE bareshaft point of impact MORE LEFT...

IF and ONLY IF, you SHORTEN the reach to your trigger...iF and ONLY IF...your SWING your RIGHT ELBOW in A CIRCLE, around your shoulder, so your FOREARM points MORE NORTH WEST.

EXAMPLE of forearm pointing NORTH EAST...bareshafts miss WAY to the RIGHT.



EXAMPLE of forearm ROTATED more counter-clockwise...BARESHAFTS hit with fletched arrows.




Example of SHORTER REACH to the trigger.



I have a website.

www.nutsandboltsarchery.com

On my website, I have a DVD for sale.

On my website, I also have a FREE newsletter program. Purchase of DVD is completely OPTIONAL. The FREE newsletter (total of SEVEN...one a week) is a sign up program.

NEWSLETTER #7, which comes 7 weeks after you sign up, covers what I call TOTAL SPREAD DISTANCE. Shortening the REACH to your trigger (rod connection...NCS strap connection)...SHORTEN your reach 1/4-inch and see what happens. TRY to line up your ELBOW DUE SOUTH, when your arrow is pointing DUE NORTH.


THIS is good.



THIS is not so good.




YOUR adjustment is a very very MINOR adjustment,
but you get the idea.


----------



## nuts&bolts

tered said:


> How good or bad is my form.


Would like your RIGHT wrist to come CLOSER to the GROUND.
MOVE right wrist DOWN about 1-inch...towards GROUND, STRAIGHT DOWN.


More like this. Must RELAX right forearm completely, and then RIGHT WRIST will drop DOWN 1-inch towards GROUND.





See how elbow to wrist to back of hand to release...ALL ONE STRAIGHT LINE....see how WRIST is not HIGHER than elbow.


----------



## nuts&bolts

tered said:


> How good or bad is my form.


Try THIS adjustment, as see what happens.



IF you have room to shorten d-loop say 1/8th inch, as well,
try that as well.

SHORTER reach to trigger,
SHORTER d-loop

these are all EFFORTS to REDUCE what I call the TOTAL SPREAD DISTANCE (newsletter #7 on my website).



This is TOTAL SPREAD DISTANCE....horizontal measurement from the GRIP (pivot point) all the way to the TIP of your RELEASE elbow.


----------



## tered

Thanks i will do that and work on it. Will update in a week


----------



## tered

After a few corrections this is my 5 yard Bear shaft and fletch group. Having to much fun.


----------



## tered

Thanks nuts&bolts. I have your dvd. Now have the newsletter.


----------



## nuts&bolts

tered said:


> Thanks nuts&bolts. I have your dvd. Now have the newsletter.


BEAUTIFUL shooting.


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## tered

Okay. I went in the drive and shot same arrows. Fletched group is great. Be
bareshaft is til low? Same not ontop of fletched but in a 2" group?


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## nuts&bolts

tered said:


> Okay. I went in the drive and shot same arrows. Fletched group is great. Be
> bareshaft is til low? Same not ontop of fletched but in a 2" group?


Looks like you have a single cam.

Bareshaft hitting low, is the SAME as a HIGH tail end paper tear, when paper tuning. Very common with the single cam bows.

Simple fix.

TWO options.

SQUEEZE bow in a press, so the buss cable is relaxed.
MUST tweak bottom end loop of the buss cable.

Try ADDING 1 twist...to make the buss cable SHORTER...
or
TRY REMOVING 1 twist...to make the buss cable LONGER.

ONE of these two directions should show improvement...bareshaft hitting HIGHER.


OTHER option,
weaken the TOP limb bolt...1/8th turn...or 1/16th turn...JUST a tiny little bit. BARESHAFT will hit HIGHER, and FLETCHED groups will FLATTEN nicely.

I have to do this for my Mathews Apex 7, as well.


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## tered

Thanks


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## nuts&bolts

tered said:


> Thanks


Play with it, and let us know how you do.


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## tered

It will be later this week. But i will post.


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## c5ken

How. Can on get on the update list? I can't live without N&B's....... Help pls


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## hammerdownbrown

Tag


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## Ncturkeycaller

tag


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## Wack'EM

Tag


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## Fulldraw_76

AWESOME thanks


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## buktruk

Thanks


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## RyanMathewsFan

Great guide!!!!! Thanks for putting it together!


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## nuts&bolts

RyanMathewsFan said:


> Great guide!!!!! Thanks for putting it together!


Welcome.


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## nuts&bolts

RyanMathewsFan said:


> Great guide!!!!! Thanks for putting it together!


I added more material to the end of Chapter 5.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fiuvta0rytqyfur/The Nuts & Bolts Of Archery 2012 Updated version.pdf?dl=0

Bottom left corner, you can see if that page is the 2010 edition. So, if you goto the end of Chapter 5, you can see the extra pages I added, cuz it says 2012 edition. About 20 pages more material. Chapter 5, Page-20 through Chapter 5, Page-37 is new material I added in 2012. This way, if you have the 2010 edition of my FREE GUIDE...you can just print the extra pages for the new material at the end of Chapter 5.

Sections added to my GUIDE in 2012.

Chapter 5.14 - STEPS to Tuning a Bow...this is where I introduce my invention MODIFIED French Tuning. Nowadays, you see it all over YouTube.

Chapter 5.15 - What happens if I adjust my draw length 1/4-inch SHORTER? How do I know HOW MUCH SHORTER?

Chapter 5.16 - Does a Bareshaft fly TAIL LEFT, if the Draw Length is TOO LONG, for a RH shooter?


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## JRexA

Thank you for the updated version.

For a newly started shooter and tuner, it is highly appreciated, as is all the other excellent help, from this forum.


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## talonone

thanks for the updates


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## yougoteem

Wow. Thanks for the info!


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## Finnster

download link on post #680 does not work anymore.


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## nuts&bolts

Finnster said:


> download link on post #680 does not work anymore.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/fiuvta0rytqyfur/Nuts & Bolts Of Archery 2012 Updated version.pdf?dl=0

Fixed the link. Sorry about that. My updated 2012 edition, with extra material at the end of Chapter 5.


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## chukarchump

Thanks for that! It is so much easier to give print to people compared to verbally trying to explaining everything at once.


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## kballer1

Great job N & B'S Thanks.


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## clay target guy

GREAT,
Thanks


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## Finnster

Thank you Alan. Just realized it has been almost a month since I last had time to dig into this.. :/ Work .. man it really takes the wind out of you.


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## C_toll

Following for all the good info


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## dmc10

Very informative thread!


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## Montana*Stevens

Just commenting to find later lots of good things on here


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## 1KNIGHT

Appreciate all your time and effort with this and all your responses N&B!!


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## edmackey

Wow...very helpful...thanks


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## BowTechCDR

Ttt


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## Elkaholic98

nuts&bolts said:


> No worries.
> BowtechCDR is my editor,
> and he created the first version from the thread,
> into book format.
> 
> Distribution is for free.
> Most of the stuff is from the "New to Bowtuning. Looking for Guidelines" thread.
> I added some more stuff.
> 
> We have been distributing to AT members for free,
> and as I add more stuff,
> then BowtechCDR sends out the latest version,
> to all prior folks, for free.
> 
> A book by the folks of AT,
> for the folks of AT,
> of the folks of AT.
> 
> No worries.


I’ve only just done a quick review of the material but this awesome! Fantastic work and level of detail. I agree with the others, you could definitely sell this.


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## nuts&bolts

Elkaholic98 said:


> I’ve only just done a quick review of the material but this awesome! Fantastic work and level of detail. I agree with the others, you could definitely sell this.


Wrote it back in 2010...first edition. In 2012, added more material to the back end of Chapter 5.
Meant for newbies, to put all kinds of stuff in one place.









Nuts & Bolts Of Archery 2012 Updated version.pdf


Shared with Dropbox




www.dropbox.com


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## Frederick D. Be

Glad to see this is still around......folks, make a copy of this and save it. Cheers!
Fred


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## 0HnoNotAgain256

nuts&bolts said:


> No worries.
> BowtechCDR is my editor,
> and he created the first version from the thread,
> into book format.
> 
> Distribution is for free.
> Most of the stuff is from the "New to Bowtuning. Looking for Guidelines" thread.
> I added some more stuff.
> 
> We have been distributing to AT members for free,
> and as I add more stuff,
> then BowtechCDR sends out the latest version,
> to all prior folks, for free.
> 
> A book by the folks of AT,
> for the folks of AT,
> of the folks of AT.
> 
> No worries.



This is pure gold! I saw you photoshop someones body before to help them out with their form! I plan to read through this PDF thoroughly before posting any photos of me! I don't want to get ate up like Zuckerburgs form


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## nuts&bolts

0HnoNotAgain256 said:


> This is pure gold! I saw you photoshop someones body before to help them out with their form! I plan to read through this PDF thoroughly before posting any photos of me! I don't want to get ate up like Zuckerburgs form


Welcome. No worries. Post up a photo/thread when ready. The idea is to show you a different full draw posture for you to try, and then, we move forwards to the shooting test.


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## Ktmrider.rr

18javelin said:


> You have Helped me in the past a few times directly for that i owe at least a Big Thank you, For this sir you deserve a thankYou ffrom every archer that reads it. You have put lots of time in sir and thanks.


I agree. He has helped me also, when I have questions. Thank you


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## camcam2273

Quite interesting


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## mathewgold

Nice work on compiling knowledge and skills, very helpful!


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## jo3st3

One of the cool things about the archery community, so many people want to share knowledge and help others learn the sport.


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## suzukigs750ez

As of August 3rd, 2021 are there any new updates to this PDF? Last i see is December 7, 2010 rev 1.


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## nuts&bolts

suzukigs750ez said:


> As of August 3rd, 2021 are there any new updates to this PDF? Last i see is December 7, 2010 rev 1.


2nd edition has added material to the end of Chapter 5.









Nuts & Bolts Of Archery 2012 Updated version.pdf


Shared with Dropbox




www.dropbox.com





New stuff starts on Page 5-20 and continued to Page 5-37.
Footer on bottom left says "Jul 21, 2012 NEW EDITION".


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## PatrickK

AT News said:


> One of our users "nuts&bolts" put together this pdf called "The Nuts & Bolts of Archery. A Guide to Tuning and Shooting Compound Bows". Check it out!
> 
> At News
> 
> 
> 
> http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf


Thank you


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## PatrickK

AT News said:


> One of our users "nuts&bolts" put together this pdf called "The Nuts & Bolts of Archery. A Guide to Tuning and Shooting Compound Bows". Check it out!
> 
> At News
> 
> 
> 
> http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf


Thank you


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## [email protected]

Thank you   ! 

Gesendet von meinem G8141 mit Tapatalk


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