# Bow Press Finally Done



## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

Finally had time to finish my press! Let me know what you guys think! Got most of My parts From Enco (www.use-enco.com) and bearing came from Granger. I found most of the steel around the shop.


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## StickyString (Oct 3, 2008)

Very nice.Lets see it in action!:thumb::thumb::thumb:


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## Wishbone (Jun 19, 2006)

The best DYI I have seen period :hail:


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## steve hilliard (Jun 26, 2002)

I am impressed looks really nice. Now you have that one under your belt you could build one for me


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

Thanks Guys, just pressed one of my Connie's to switch out a set of limbs and it works GREAT. Only have it C clamped to the bench for know, when i get it bolted down i will put up another pic!


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

Got my fingers from Deere318, Awesome job!!! here is the link.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1032942


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

Couple buys asked in PM's so i thought i would share!
The drive line is 3/4 X 10 acme rod that i turned the last 4 inches down to 1/2 to fit into the bearing block and then threaded the last 2 inches of that to put a 1/2 nut on to back up the set screws on the bearing and the hand wheel. 
Any more info i can provide let me know!


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## Dthbyhoyt (Dec 4, 2004)

Nice job ....


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## SandSquid (Sep 2, 2008)

How much for all the needed tubing precut, delivered to 38134?


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## edbizsolution (Dec 5, 2009)

VERY NEAT! beautiful workmanship!


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Very nice job! Last Chance Archery design. I know because it is the best design on the market and I made one myself. Absolutely works flawlessly and will press any bow with little effort. I made mine over kill with 2 1/2" receiver trailer hitch tube steel. With a 5/8" threaded rod and thrust washers either side of the plate next to the hand wheel. The 2 1/2" receiver stock was something I still had laying around my shop. Wouldn't really recomend using it if you are on a budget. Stuff isn't cheep. Anyways, I'm glad to see someone else agrees with me on this type of press. Great job!

JT


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

Ok guys i have gotten a lot of questions about building more presses and how much it would be, what did it cost, what materials and sizes and so on! 
After the holidays i am going to sit down and figure out what it cost me to build my press (i had most stuff around the shop). and figure out what my time is worth and what it will cost to ship it! I will also try to get a materials list with sizes for you guys that want to DIY


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## bowfisher (Jan 21, 2003)

*Materials list*

Materials list would be great. Thanks, i'll be waiting. Happy holidays!!!:thumbs_up


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## [email protected] (Jan 6, 2009)

*nice press*

I would be interested in one let me know.


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

Yup, materials list with lengths would be excellent.

Merry Christmas to you hotrodderscott!!


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

I will Not be selling complete presses!!!
I have had a lot of people give me some warnings on sootballs presses and a couple others that have been selling Last Chance style presses on AT and have been SHUT DOWN by Last Chance.I am willing to help you all out any way I can. I will post parts and materials list this weekend! 

IF YOU NEED MORE THEN WOULD BE POSSIBLE FOR ME TO POST ON AN OPEN FORUM PLEASE PM ME

Thanks again Guys!!!


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

PS I am also building a Vertical draw board, like on the apple pro press! so you can stand up in a comfortable position and tune your bow, with out being bent over working on your bow flat on its side.


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## pbdollar (May 1, 2005)

hotrodderscott said:


> PS I am also building a Vertical draw board, like on the apple pro press! so you can stand up in a comfortable position and tune your bow, with out being bent over working on your bow flat on its side.


Look forward to seeing pics of your completed draw board, vertical makes a lot of sense.


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## petrey10 (Oct 24, 2008)

I would just like someone to post a step by step build of this type of press let alone a parts list!!!!!! Help a young brother out!!!!!


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## ronvdw (Dec 24, 2009)

*Nice!*

Very nice. I was thinking of making one myself. I am inspired.


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## Dodgeman67 (Dec 21, 2009)

petrey10 said:


> I would just like someone to post a step by step build of this type of press let alone a parts list!!!!!! Help a young brother out!!!!!


+1 

I would like to see it as well.


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## simon miller (Nov 28, 2009)

Ok so what's it gonna cost all us poor boys?


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## Jayhawk (Nov 1, 2004)

I am more interested in the internal stuff and hwo it goes together....plus the rest of the parts/measurements


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## simon miller (Nov 28, 2009)

Good point. Let's see what your getting us into.lol!!!!


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## JWT (Jan 3, 2006)

Guy's there are atleast 20 threads with material list and Mcmaster carr part numbers and prices just use the search function.


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

JWT said:


> Guy's there are atleast 20 threads with material list and Mcmaster carr part numbers and prices just use the search function.


 That's true but some may not have the knowledge to know how to construct the internal parts of this so that it is functional. I think that is why Jayhawk, and likely a few others are asking to see more on the internal stuff.
The outside is the easy part, it's trying to visualize how the inside is built that can be confusing to some of us that don't normally build stuff like this!


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## Mutonian (Jan 18, 2009)

Maxtor said:


> That's true but some may not have the knowledge to know how to construct the internal parts of this so that it is functional. I think that is why Jayhawk, and likely a few others are asking to see more on the internal stuff.
> The outside is the easy part, it's trying to visualize how the inside is built that can be confusing to some of us that don't normally build stuff like this!


I know that I am going to come off like a jerk with this response and maybe I am but here goes anyway......

If you don't have the talent or ability or whatever to see in your mind how this press works and the ability to look at pics and get the dimensions fairly close from them and the ability to read the aforementioned materials lists and look at the detailed photos that are on AT in several threads then you probably won't be able to build one of these presses even after being spoon fed.

You need a welder or access to a welder to build one. Pretty much everyone I know who has a welder and can use it has some level of mechanical aptitude. These are not that hard to understand. There are pics on the other threads of the inside screw and the welded nut if you still can't visualize it.

Sorry for the rant. I know this is archers helping archers but I expect that many people requesting drawings, detailed dimensions and parts lists, suppliers etc. will never build a press. It takes a lot of effort to make drawings etc. when the bottom line is if you have the ability to make one of these presses then you don't need any drawings.

Flame away!


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## Jayhawk (Nov 1, 2004)

Mutonian said:


> I know that I am going to come off like a jerk with this response and maybe I am but here goes anyway......
> 
> If you don't have the talent or ability or whatever to see in your mind how this press works and the ability to look at pics and get the dimensions fairly close from them and the ability to read the aforementioned materials lists and look at the detailed photos that are on AT in several threads then you probably won't be able to build one of these presses even after being spoon fed.
> 
> ...




A simple picture. Is that hard to ask for? I have the ability to make one. I just wanted a picture. I appreciate you helping other Archers with your great input.


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## Mutonian (Jan 18, 2009)

Jayhawk said:


> A simple picture. Is that hard to ask for? I have the ability to make one. I just wanted a picture. I appreciate you helping other Archers with your great input.


Here is from one of the many other threads on this on AT and linked to other sites. I downloaded it awhile back.

If you search the DIY forum and/or the General forum for press you can find this and many more photos and material lists as I stated before.

You're welcome:


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## Archeroni (Oct 3, 2008)

If you go to this thread there are several pics plus links to other threads with more pics and material lists. Should tell you everything you need to know. Hope this helps:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=969316

Here's one with dimensions and photos from another forum, but linked within my linked thread above:

http://www.elitearchery.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16097


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

YEP Guys that is what the inside drive line looks like on mine! I used 3/4 ACME rod and nuts and added a grease fitting to keep that nut greased. i am calling tuesday to get steal prices and should have Parts list


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## pure havoc (Apr 21, 2003)

If you can wait til tomorrow I will pull mine apart and take some pics . PM me for the cheapest parts list . There are several diffferent ways to make it . I tried to make mine look as clean as possible by cutting the arms on a 45 deg angle to make a 90 but you dont have to make it that way someguys dont have access to a saw to cut a perfect 45 so they just cut them at a 90 and weld them on to the main body of it . This works fine its just not as clean looking and I had access to the tools to do it the way I wanted . I also cut my nuts in half to make it smaller looking but I could have used a 3/4" clamp collar on the inside and outside and saved myself a few bucks . Theres lots of cheaper better looking ways to build it after sitting down and taking a look at it after it was built . I think I had a total of $127.13 in mine and that was painted and completely finished . If I would have shopped around a little bit for my steel and made some better parts choices I could have saved myself a little more than $25 and still have looked and worked exactly the same. my current cost with different parts would work out around $95 or less for the finished product . However that doesnt figure any time into buillding it but around a hr from start to finish is I just sat down and didnt piddle around .


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## skybolt (Apr 29, 2008)

pure havoc said:


> i also cut my nuts in half


ouch


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## deere318 (Aug 11, 2005)

*press*



skybolt said:


> ouch


:mg:


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## Matador X (Mar 10, 2009)

*Press*

Great job:banana:


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

*Parts*

There is no way you could build this press in an hour!!! I have work with steel since I was around 14 years old. I have at least 40 min in the Drive line rod alone.

If you know what you are doing and have all material in front of you I would say you could have it all cut, milled, turned and welded in about 2.5 hours, add another 30-45 min to sandblast and paint.

1) I took 3’ section of ACME rod and turned down the last 4” to ½ , then threaded the last 2” of that with a ½ die. This way the acme rod sits tight on the bearing and acts as a thrush block. I also ground a flat spot on the shaft so the set screw from the bearing and hand wheel would have a good seat. I then had to drill to set screw holes in the hand wheel and tap them to 5/16 and bore a ½ hole threw the center of the wheel and also a 3/8 hole for the side handle and tap that as well. And backed it all with ½ lock nuts to make a bullet proof drive line! ( THIS IS NOT SOME ¾ ROD FROM THE HARDWARE STORE WITH WASHER SLAMMED ON EACH SIDE TO MAKE SOMEKIND OF BUSHING)
2) cut my inside tube and welded a ACME nut to the inside, keeping it cool with water so not to warp or distort the nut made a 3”x3” x1/4” plate with a 7/8 hole in the middle and 2 other hole to mount your bearing to.
3) them weld up you main frame 2) legs and 1) arm on the main body and 1) on the drive tube. Weld on your center finger mount and cut the head and threads of your 5/8 bolts and use them for the finger mount rods. A little grinding and sandblasting and your ready for paint!
* Legs are 10” , Main tube is 31” , Inside tube is 33” , Arms one is 8” other 8 1/8 *
( I MILLED ALL MY MAITING SURFACES SO THEY FORM PERFECT 90 DEGREE )

PARTS & PRICES
-	3’ ACME rod ¾ diameter #6 pitch $23.95 (Enco# 408-0206)
-	¾ Acme nut $4.56 (Enco# 407-2206)
-	8” cast iron hand wheel BLANK $19.95 (Enco# 990-3274)
( this is a blank handle it must be drilled and tapped for main whole, set screws, and revolving handle. You could spend more for one already done or less for a plastic one. Enco has many options)
-	3/8 x 16 threaded revolving handle $5.44 (Enco# 990-3295)
-	½ Bearing with two bolt flange 21.98 (Granger# 1A396) Once again you could save money by getting a cheaper bearing without a grease fitting)
-	2) 5/16 by ½ long set screws and 2) 5/16 by 1” long carrige bolts with lock nuts, and 2) 5/8 by 6” bolts, and 6 ¼ x 20 thumb screws. Shouldn’t be more then $8 to $10 from Home Depot. (also a can of spray bomb, color of your choice.)
-	You NEED fingers I got mine from “Deere318” for $30. They are raw and need the main wholes bored to 5/8 and all the set screw wholes drilled and tapped. ( it was worth the money to me to save time and not have to cut them one at a time on the BridgePort. 

STEEL LIST
-	6’ of 2” O.D. (main body)
-	3’ of 1 ¾ O.D. (inside drive tube)
-	1.5’ of 3”x1/4” flat stock ( mounting plates and bearing mount plate)
( I do not have prices on steel yet, I had what I needed around the shop. Will try to get it up soon as possible, I read a lot of guys on here got their steel from McMasters.)


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

Some more picks


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## The Hood (Jul 5, 2002)

That thing is Plain Awesome! Vary Nice :darkbeer:


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

Thinking of selling kits that would be all premachined for you to assemble! You would get everything in one box, you would have to weld it together and paint. For liability the items in the box could be welded together to form a bow press or what ever else you wanted to make from the materials. 
I need to get prices on steel and a shop price to cut some fingers on a water jet table. If their is interest let me know! try to get get final prices soon.


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

couple more close ups


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## bwlacy (Mar 28, 2009)

I may be interested, depends on the total price with shipping.


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## pure havoc (Apr 21, 2003)

hotrodderscott said:


> There is no way you could build this press in an hour!!! I have work with steel since I was around 14 years old. I have at least 40 min in the Drive line rod alone.
> 
> If you know what you are doing and have all material in front of you I would say you could have it all cut, milled, turned and welded in about 2.5 hours, add another 30-45 min to sandblast and paint.
> 
> .)


Im not questioning your skills but I could have one done start to finish in a hr or so not including painted . No I dont put the acme rod in the lathe and turn it , and I know that takes time especially with the hardened rod . I have no need to the way I build one , what takes the longest is cutting the steel down ,welding it takes no time at all and i bought the fingers so I had no time in them either and milling those out would take a long long time . . starting with 2 20 ft sticks of square tube it can be made pretty quick. I will post up some pics of mine and some stuff I would have changed to make it a little cheaper and quicker to build and cleaner looking . Not sure why you need to sandblast the steel unless it was just rusty but thats your choice of how you build it . The first one I really had no clue what I was doing til I got going and it took a couple hrs that included alot of BSing and a few cold beverages  I dont claim to be the master press builder because Im not . It just not that hard to do if you have the right tools . Heres some pics of mine . I would have changed the inner nuts to a clamp which I have already ordered to replace the nuts with for a cleaner look . Lemme know what you think  My Drawboard attachments will allow for tuning out to a 31" draw


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## cordini (Jan 7, 2007)

The thing I am most interested in would be the ACME rod that is turned down from 3/4" to 1/2" with the thread added back in for installing the handwheel....You have built a very impressive press, but I think if you try to sell it as a kit, you may end up getting contacted by LCA. I bought the steel yesterday.....I will have to find someone to weld it together, but I need to get the internal guts, bushing, and handwheel. The parts list has helped immensely !


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## jer7440 (Sep 27, 2005)

Wouldn't regular 3/4" threaded rod be sufficient? Most bows are only 70lbs. I'm not asking to criticize your press...your work is top notch. I'm just asking for my own budget.


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## AR&BOW (May 24, 2009)

hotrodderscott said:


> Thinking of selling kits that would be all premachined for you to assemble! You would get everything in one box, you would have to weld it together and paint. For liability the items in the box could be welded together to form a bow press or what ever else you wanted to make from the materials.
> I need to get prices on steel and a shop price to cut some fingers on a water jet table. If their is interest let me know! try to get get final prices soon.


I am interested, PM me when you get prices together.:darkbeer:


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## special (Apr 6, 2009)

jer7440 said:


> Wouldn't regular 3/4" threaded rod be sufficient? Most bows are only 70lbs. I'm not asking to criticize your press...your work is top notch. I'm just asking for my own budget.


Normal threaded rod will only last a short time before starting to bind and then siezing..
You need Ajax or square section thread for repetitive load under tension.

Ive had several jigs etc that have met that fate...I only use Ajax thread for presses and jigs now.


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## pure havoc (Apr 21, 2003)

special said:


> Normal threaded rod will only last a short time before starting to bind and then siezing..
> You need Ajax or square section thread for repetitive load under tension.
> 
> Ive had several jigs etc that have met that fate...I only use Ajax thread for presses and jigs now.


Not to mention I have found 3 ft sections of the acme 3/4 rod for $9.99 you will be lucky if you can get standard threaded rod for $9 for 3 ft and as stated above it wont last long


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## neo71665 (Jul 26, 2007)

I get normal 1/2 threaded rod in 12 foot sticks from work. Fixing to build a press with it in about a week. If it doesn't work I'll replace it but gonna try it first since its free and I'll only use the press a couple of times a year. Hardest part so far is getting good measurements to start off with. Everybody just wants to send you on a wild goose chase saying its in this thread that sends you to 3 more threads and you gotta piece the info together or they just tell you to search.


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## Archeroni (Oct 3, 2008)

1. It is a mistake not to use ACME threaded rod. It is readily available, not expensive and works well. That is why it is used on screw jacks and screw drive machines instead of "normal" thread.

2. Although it might be a little nicer setup to turn down the 3/4 ACME screw to 1/2" and make the mods suggested here it is not necessary. Just depends on how nice you want to make your press. Not that it is not a good idea, it is just one of those nicer touches.


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## skybolt (Apr 29, 2008)

Treaded rod will last if it has sufficient lubrication but the acme thread is better only because you don't have to turn it so many times to get the job done. Either will work.


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## neo71665 (Jul 26, 2007)

Archeroni said:


> 1. It is a mistake not to use ACME threaded rod. It is readily available, not expensive and works well. That is why it is used on screw jacks and screw drive machines instead of "normal" thread.


 I highly doubt it is a mistake and I've seen it used in a number of applications where fine tuning is a factor. Might be readily available, guess when it becomes free you can give me some of it. Its used on jacks cause of speed, as far as screw drive machines I've seen fine threaded rod used (as said earlier) when fine adjustment is a factor. Course threaded rod might not be the fastest and that reason alone might make it bad choice but I highly doubt its any worse than acme rod.

I only plan on using this once maybe twice a year to put new strings on my bow. I'm not running any shop where its gonna be used all day every week. If I was I would buy a press and not make one out of steel I get free. I had thought of adding zerk fittings just to add protection of the SS threaded rod from the steel nuts. I wish I had enough to build it entirely out of SS but unless I either buy the stuff or wait about another year or 2 to pick up the stuff free I'll just build it out of mild steel.

Also gonna weld a coupler on the end and use a deep barrel socket on an air powered impact or drill instead of a hand wheel, guess you're gonna come up with a reason why not to do this and every motorized press in the world is wrong.


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## pure havoc (Apr 21, 2003)

Well then let me be the first . I guess its more of a safety issue than anything not wether its faster . The cheap threaded rod your talking about is not hardened steel and the threads strip very easily over time, I know this becuase we use some of thist material at work and its only a matter of time that the area use constantly strips out . Regardless wether you use it once or twice a yr . Why take a chance of it unloaded with a bow in it . Your only talking $20 for the 3/4 acme rod and 3 nuts . Why take a chance on your bow unloading infront of you and seriously hurting you or anyone that may be around it . With the heavy hardened threads of the acme rod you can still make fine adjustments becuase of the pressure put on them under load its not like a winch where its going to be off a click . Im not trying to be a skeptic here just use your head and build it right for safety sake . As far as motorized go for it nothing wrong with that 



neo71665 said:


> I highly doubt it is a mistake and I've seen it used in a number of applications where fine tuning is a factor. Might be readily available, guess when it becomes free you can give me some of it. Its used on jacks cause of speed, as far as screw drive machines I've seen fine threaded rod used (as said earlier) when fine adjustment is a factor. Course threaded rod might not be the fastest and that reason alone might make it bad choice but I highly doubt its any worse than acme rod.
> 
> guess you're gonna come up with a reason why not to do this and every motorized press in the world is wrong.


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## neo71665 (Jul 26, 2007)

pure havoc said:


> Well then let me be the first . I guess its more of a safety issue than anything not wether its faster . The cheap threaded rod your talking about is not hardened steel and the threads strip very easily over time, I know this becuase we use some of thist material at work and its only a matter of time that the area use constantly strips out . Regardless wether you use it once or twice a yr . Why take a chance of it unloaded with a bow in it . Your only talking $20 for the 3/4 acme rod and 3 nuts . Why take a chance on your bow unloading infront of you and seriously hurting you or anyone that may be around it . With the heavy hardened threads of the acme rod you can still make fine adjustments becuase of the pressure put on them under load its not like a winch where its going to be off a click . Im not trying to be a skeptic here just use your head and build it right for safety sake . As far as motorized go for it nothing wrong with that


Ok sir know it all please tell me where I got my threaded rod and please post the metallurgy specs you have on it. You seem to know more about it than I do. 

I'll give you a hint, it was designed to be used in an corrosive environment as a way to control the movement of a type of solenoid valve over 3500psi of pressure. I can also say it cost more than cheap $20 rod and has tighter machined tolerances.


I am being a skeptic here, you're the one thats jumping the gun and guessing what I have determined on the thread count it seems. Maybe its cause I had it given to me I don't know.


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## ursonvs (Sep 19, 2003)

oh cmon man, you spent the time to smooth down the welds on the main frame but didn't clean the splatter on the legs?

my only gripe, other than that it will work fine.


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

neo71665 said:


> Ok sir know it all please tell me where I got my threaded rod and please post the metallurgy specs you have on it. You seem to know more about it than I do.
> 
> I'll give you a hint, it was designed to be used in an corrosive environment as a way to control the movement of a type of solenoid valve over 3500psi of pressure. I can also say it cost more than cheap $20 rod and has tighter machined tolerances.
> 
> ...



The way I read his posts is simple. He's not claiming to be a "know it all" but merely pointing out to others what he sees could be a safety issue. If what he says is even a possibilty, then I would think people would be glad that he at least brought it up, then let them make the final decision. Same as you have also posted some things that may tell them that regular rod is okay to use.

At least he's being nice enough to take the time and offer to help people out in this thread, and up till now, I've really seen nothing to warrant turning this into a pissing match! 

I know I, for one, will now do more research on this threaded rod issue to make sure I make the right choice the first time. I don't want to have to redo this all over again in a few years or definitely don't want to take the chance on someone getting injured or damaging my bow. If it turns out he's wrong, then all I've done is waisted a tiny bit of time I used in researching this further


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## fat kid (Sep 17, 2009)

"I'll give you a hint, it was designed to be used in an corrosive environment as a way to control the movement of a type of solenoid valve over 3500psi of pressure. I can also say it cost more than cheap $20 rod and has tighter machined tolerances."

then it would not be ""normal"" 1/2 inch threaded rod.

normal would imply what you could pick up a any hardware store to me.
the normal rod is what i used to build my first press, bad mistake.
it bound up horably, it was slow as hell, and after a short time stretched threads making it a saftey issue. 
I have since rebuild the press the right way and have no problems. i used the rod and nuts from a screw type jack found a junk store for 2 dollars.


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## fat kid (Sep 17, 2009)

i welded the nut inside a piece of pipe that would fit inside the movable arm of press then drilled hole in pipe and several holes in movable arm. used a pin to connect the two this allowed me to use the shorter thead rod from jack and it gave me a quicker adjusting press.


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## Supershark (Dec 14, 2004)

Now this is a great thread!

Great pics to everyone.
Besides one post on here. I think this could be one of the most information packed post on AT.

Now I may come off like a jerk with my post... 
I personally *can't* weld. But, I know this guy... Friend actually... He can weld a pop can back together. Fill it with water and not a single drop runs out. Almost every time. So, I do know a guy that can take care of the welding for me. I can take care of everything else with my 14 years of mechanical and electrical engineer trainging and hands on job experience.

And even then. YES. Even then pictures are always a plus when there is just something, no matter how simple it is in real life, you just can not picture in your mind.


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## pure havoc (Apr 21, 2003)

Look I said that for your best interest and safety not to be a know it all douche bag so get off your high horse . If its standard threaded rod its probably made in china as most of that material is and sent to the US and covered with a corrosion inhibitor . 3500 psi strength is not that much strength thats 3500 psi on the rod not the threads .Do it right and dont try to save yourself $20 to have heart break later and have to do it again . Heres the specs for the acme rod just to give you a heads up Its almost 20X stronger than the rod your looking at using . Overkill ? probably but i would rather be safe than sorry ..Rods are AISI C1018 carbon steel, 65,000-75,000 PSI. Tensile strength Class 2G rolled thread.




neo71665 said:


> Ok sir know it all please tell me where I got my threaded rod and please post the metallurgy specs you have on it. You seem to know more about it than I do.
> 
> I'll give you a hint, it was designed to be used in an corrosive environment as a way to control the movement of a type of solenoid valve over 3500psi of pressure. I can also say it cost more than cheap $20 rod and has tighter machined tolerances.
> 
> ...


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## pure havoc (Apr 21, 2003)

ursonvs said:


> oh cmon man, you spent the time to smooth down the welds on the main frame but didn't clean the splatter on the legs?
> 
> my only gripe, other than that it will work fine.


 got in a hurry and forgot about those and didnt notice it til I already had it primered .


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## IL Bowhunter 82 (Sep 28, 2006)

pure havoc said:


> Look I said that for your best interest and safety not to be a know it all douche bag so get off your high horse . If its standard threaded rod its probably made in china as most of that material is and sent to the US and covered with a corrosion inhibitor . 3500 psi strength is not that much strength thats 3500 psi on the rod not the threads .Do it right and dont try to save yourself $20 to have heart break later and have to do it again . Heres the specs for the acme rod just to give you a heads up Its almost 20X stronger than the rod your looking at using . Overkill ? probably but i would rather be safe than sorry later
> Rods are AISI C1018 carbon steel, 65,000-75,000 PSI. Tensile strength Class 2G rolled thread.


To answer a couple of statements on here. This press can be built in an hour or less, If you would like to see it yourself you are more than welcome to come and watch, of course we also have total access to a full fabricating and welding shop so it tends to help with having industrial tools. I have spent several hours making CAD drawings of our press and a list of building steps. The press that Havoc has shown is a prototype and not fully done yet so everyone can throw a fit but it's not like anyone elses unless theirs has a press, draw board and vise all in one. Everything is cut before any welding begins. I can tell you that if you use a standard threaded rod instead of ACME drive rod you will be fine until you try and press the bow. You will be unable to turn the rod to compress the bow.


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## ruttnwapati (Sep 22, 2008)

*hotrodderscott's press*

Your craftsmanship is 1st rate. Good looking press and good luck with the 
cutting and fabricating press parts and making it available for DIYers who can weld.:darkbeer:
I'm not really up on internet manners or how much one should respect anothers thread here on AT. Would this thread be classified has hijacked by another with all the pics and input provided and the direction it has went?
Thanks for the pics and info on your press hotrodderscott!


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## petrey10 (Oct 24, 2008)

great thread again guys... I would love to see that CAD drawing and how in the world or where did you put your VICE for this press... That would be freaking awesome! Anyone made theirs into a shooting machine like the hooter shooter?? That could come in handy


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## petrey10 (Oct 24, 2008)

also one quick question... is there a gap between the moveable arm and the fixed arm. I mean is the difference between the 1.5'' square tube and the 1.25'' tube big enough to cause a flex of some sort when pressed? I hope you get what I am saying...


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## pure havoc (Apr 21, 2003)

petrey10 said:


> also one quick question... is there a gap between the moveable arm and the fixed arm. I mean is the difference between the 1.5'' square tube and the 1.25'' tube big enough to cause a flex of some sort when pressed? I hope you get what I am saying...


Very little and if you put more than 1 light coat of paint on the inner tube it wont fit or slide well


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## neo71665 (Jul 26, 2007)

fat kid said:


> then it would not be ""normal"" 1/2 inch threaded rod.


Only used the word normal as a loose description. Its closer to looking like a piece of cheap all thread than an acme rod. I'll have to talk to the machinist to get the exact thread pitch but the backlash specs are something like >.001, He is also machining the "nuts" for me to weld in the square tube sometime this week. 





pure havoc said:


> Look I said that for your best interest and safety not to be a know it all douche bag so get off your high horse . If its standard threaded rod its probably made in china as most of that material is and sent to the US and covered with a corrosion inhibitor . 3500 psi strength is not that much strength thats 3500 psi on the rod not the threads .Do it right and dont try to save yourself $20 to have heart break later and have to do it again . Heres the specs for the acme rod just to give you a heads up Its almost 20X stronger than the rod your looking at using . Overkill ? probably but i would rather be safe than sorry ..Rods are AISI C1018 carbon steel, 65,000-75,000 PSI. Tensile strength Class 2G rolled thread.




Try again, this rod isn't allthread bought at your local lowes, That what I'm on my "high horse" trying to tell you. You jumping to a conclusion about what I got and have no clue what you are talking about. The machine work alone done to make this rod cost well over your $20 acme rod. I don't know what acme is paying you but you might want to think there are other options out there besides off the shelf store items. I'm not getting into any more of a pissing match with you. You seem to know everything about what I have without even seeing it so be it.


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## bowfisher (Jan 21, 2003)




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## pure havoc (Apr 21, 2003)

Enough soap opera BS!!! just build your press and let us know how it works. isn't that what the DIY threads are about. Making things and passing them along 



neo71665 said:


> Only used the word normal as a loose description. Its closer to looking like a piece of cheap all thread than an acme rod. I'll have to talk to the machinist to get the exact thread pitch but the backlash specs are something like >.001, He is also machining the "nuts" for me to weld in the square tube sometime this week.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## anthony270 (Feb 2, 2009)

pure havoc said:


> Enough soap opera BS!!! just build your press and let us know how it works. isn't that what the DIY threads are about. Making things and passing them along


I second this


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## whitetail25 (Oct 22, 2006)

pure havoc said:


> Enough soap opera BS!!! just build your press and let us know how it works. isn't that what the DIY threads are about. Making things and passing them along


Ya really.. Pure has more than helped me out ..Went out of his way to explain and give me diagrams and also a parts list.. I thank you ...


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## IL Bowhunter 82 (Sep 28, 2006)

petrey10 said:


> great thread again guys... I would love to see that CAD drawing and how in the world or where did you put your VICE for this press... That would be freaking awesome! Anyone made theirs into a shooting machine like the hooter shooter?? That could come in handy


You will see it in due time, Havoc and I are putting the final touches on one and may make some changes before we post it up and yes it can be used as a "Hooter Shooter" but the user will have to supply the shooting device. And yes the vise on it is freaking awesome. For another teaser, you can have a bow in the vise and still use the draw board or press at the same time.:zip:


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## IL Bowhunter 82 (Sep 28, 2006)

petrey10 said:


> great thread again guys... I would love to see that CAD drawing and how in the world or where did you put your VICE for this press... That would be freaking awesome! Anyone made theirs into a shooting machine like the hooter shooter?? That could come in handy


I also forgot to mention.................You will not be abe to see the CAD drawings......sorry.


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

IL Bowhunter 82 said:


> You will see it in due time, Havoc and I are putting the final touches on one and may make some changes before we post it up and yes it can be used as a "Hooter Shooter" but the user will have to supply the shooting device. And yes the vise on it is freaking awesome. For another teaser, you can have a bow in the vise and still use the draw board or press at the same time.:zip:


 Oh sure.......tease us why don't you..........lol

Picked up the steal for mine yesterday, and ordered the flanged bearing and handle/wheel. Just have to find someone in my area that has Acne rod because getting it shipped here would probably be pricey


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## petrey10 (Oct 24, 2008)

Went to the local hardware store last night would 5/8'' Coarse Threaded rods work instead of the ACME threaded rods?? Just curious because they didn't have acme threaded rods. They did have the steel tho


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## IL Bowhunter 82 (Sep 28, 2006)

petrey10 said:


> Went to the local hardware store last night would 5/8'' Coarse Threaded rods work instead of the ACME threaded rods?? Just curious because they didn't have acme threaded rods. They did have the steel tho


It's still going to bind. If you look at the top of the "thread-all" you will see that the threads have a pointed edge where the acme has a squared edge. Try enco's website, I bet the shipping wouldn't be bad for the acme rod. The 3' length is plenty for one press.


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## IL Bowhunter 82 (Sep 28, 2006)

Maxtor said:


> Oh sure.......tease us why don't you..........lol
> 
> Picked up the steal for mine yesterday, and ordered the flanged bearing and handle/wheel. Just have to find someone in my area that has Acne rod because getting it shipped here would probably be pricey


We are just making sure everything is in order. We have a feeling people will like this and want them so we are in the process of making some jigs to make the assembly faster.


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

IL Bowhunter 82 said:


> Try enco's website, I bet the shipping wouldn't be bad for the acme rod. The 3' length is plenty for one press.


 He's right petrey. I just said shipping would be costly for me because I live on the wrong side of the pond. It would likely be shipped to me using UPS and UPS in Canada would ding me another $30 - $50 on top of what I already paid. They like to bend you over in this country


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

I am a dairy farmer by trade unlike other, most days never end, the work is never done, and parts are never affordable!!! their for fabrication is a must i use Enco and Granger because i get a discount threw NJ Farmers. I may not be a "Pro" like others on here but i try to do the best job i can so repairs and equipment last as long a possible! Im sure their are better presses built by much smarter people then I!

Here are two other GREAT places you guys can get parts! One specializes in drive lines using a lot of ACME products.

http://www.grizzly.com/ (bearings, hand wheels, ....)

http://www.roton.com/ (everything you need for drive line)


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## Rage76 (May 9, 2009)

*press*

Very nice!! do u plan on sellling any or just made the one for u? If so let me know!! Thanks!!


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## henry lyles (Sep 12, 2004)

*press*

great press man. would you post the plans for this thing. i know they are on here but i can not dig them up anywhere, thanks again for sharing.


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

Hey guys ... Well i have had some people contact me saying that if i produce any kind of bow press they will counter with legal action! I am trying to gather info on what is legal and not! Currently it looks like i could only produce is a "drive line" (Acme rod, bearing, and handle, assembled and ready for the DIYer to put together!

I will keep you posted, sorry for delay!


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

I'm not surprised bud. Don't put yourself in line for any trouble, it's not worth it. I've heard of this happening many times before and it's really too bad


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## bowsmith (Sep 17, 2002)

Production of the "drive line" assembly, or the fingers assemblies, may be considered a contributory infringment. I would strongly encourage you to talk with a patent attorney before deciding to sell parts to build the presses.

Source- About.com http://inventors.about.com/library/bl/toc/bl_patent-infringement.htm
Infringement can be direct, indirect, or contributory. Anyone who makes, uses, or sells the patented invention is a direct infringer. If a person actively encourages another to make, use, or sell the invention, the person so inducing is liable for indirect infringement. Contributory infringement can be committed by knowingly selling or supplying an item for which the only use is in connection with a patented invention. Good faith or ignorance is no defense for direct infringement, but it can be for indirect or contributory infringement. 

The remedies for infringement consist of: 

1.Injunctive relief,
2.damages (including treble damages for willful infringement),
3.attorneys' fees in some cases, and
4.court costs.


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## ursonvs (Sep 19, 2003)

I really wish what i have to say right now will be made into a new thread and stickied on this part of the forum.

back in fall of 2005, i decided to make a bunch of X-presses and sell them so i could go crazy buying my boys some x-mas presents. I worked for about a week and had a very good assembly line style of making all the parts going on.

when i was at the point i thought i could post, i started a thread. I showed multiple pics of parts all layed out on the floor neatly, people started to hit that thread hardcore.

the following day when i went to check the thread it had been locked and i had a PM from Oxford to give him a call. what happened next made for one of the worst things that has happened to me stress wise. Steve Gibbs, deceased owner of Sure-Loc, contacted martin archery and told them that if they didnt shut down the thread and give them my information so he could give it to the lawyers, he wold sue martin archery.

about a week or so later, 3 days before x-mas to be exact. I was contacted by Steve Gibbs and he wanted me to send him all the parts that i had made. I said no, it was my property but i quoted shipping to him at over 400 bux because of the weight. his lawyers got in touch with me and sent me a folder full of the patent on the press, a cease and desist order , and finally paperwork to sign saying i received all of this.

what alot of people don't know is Steve patented the way the X-press ...presses the bow. you can make it 2 inches bigger all the way around and this STILL is infringing on the patent. 

I ended up not getting into trouble in the end but that was a very stressful 2 to 3 weeks and i was a bear to deal with cause of my nerves. 

In the end, if you want to make something you know you are copying a patented product, dont try to sell it. you can make one for yourself and no one else as far as i know of.

Lee Dunlap


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## capt ray (Jan 16, 2006)

ursonvs said:


> I really wish what i have to say right now will be made into a new thread and stickied on this part of the forum.
> 
> back in fall of 2005, i decided to make a bunch of X-presses and sell them so i could go crazy buying my boys some x-mas presents. I worked for about a week and had a very good assembly line style of making all the parts going on.
> 
> ...


The archery industry is so full of crying babies that it almost makes me sick. You don't see this with fishing or shooting companies, only archery. You are copying my product, I am going to to take you to court. Wawawawa.

Glad I got that out, Dave Nowlin and I just had this very conversation yesterday. Dave you are right again (as usual).


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## Neuralgia (Mar 25, 2008)

BUT, you could still get all the parts and sell them as a set so someone else could wle , right?


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

Neuralgia said:


> BUT, you could still get all the parts and sell them as a set so someone else could wle , right?


 I'm guessing no because you would still be selling the drive part of it which I believe is what's causing the problem


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## reylamb (Feb 5, 2003)

capt ray said:


> The archery industry is so full of crying babies that it almost makes me sick. You don't see this with fishing or shooting companies, only archery. You are copying my product, I am going to to take you to court. Wawawawa.
> 
> Glad I got that out, Dave Nowlin and I just had this very conversation yesterday. Dave you are right again (as usual).


Every industry is full of what you call "cry babies" protecting their intellectual property. Stealing patented ideas is every bit as illegal as walking into someone's house and stealing their bows. If someone broke into your house and stole you bows, and then posted those bows for sale on the internet, would you simply stand by and watch or would you take actions?



Neuralgia said:


> BUT, you could still get all the parts and sell them as a set so someone else could wle , right?


No you could not, that is still against the law and yes, stealing.


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## halvy (Feb 7, 2009)

deere318 said:


> :mg:


i laughed my ass off after seing these faces with the above post lol i absolutly lost it!


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

bunch of people have asked... press goes from 27.5 to 51.75 from finger tip to finger tip. i can press and remove the limbs from my bowtech constitution with no problem


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## ozarkmtnhunter (Jul 17, 2005)

Neuralgia said:


> BUT, you could still get all the parts and sell them as a set so someone else could wle , right?


Seems to me if you could build *something* that used all those parts besides a linear press then you could sell them as parts for the *other thing*. If someone wanted to buy the parts that you intended for the *other device *and build a press out of it that would be their own doing not yours.
Perhaps a linear nut cracker or maybe a linear spring compressor. 
Just thinking out loud.
Jerry


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

Couple of guys wanted to see finger set up.


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

Got the rubber dip at Lowes, it under 7 bucks for a can. If you can put the can in a food saver bag and vacuum seal it. Keeping the air out will make it last for ever. Side note i also do this with my black powder at the end of the season.


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## lilbragger (Dec 10, 2005)

*kit price*

Put me on the list for a D.I.Y. kit price when you get it figured out. Very nice work indeed.


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

Can you believe.....

Ordered the cast iron handle for my press, which was $35 in my area. The description said it was suppose to have the revolving handle on it, but when I got it, the revolving handle wasn't on it. The guy that ordered it for me calls the company to inquire about it and they told him that the "fine print" says that the little revolving handle must be purchased separately and is another $25. I damn near passed out when he told me that.......:angry:

Now I either have to go without, or design some kind of a revolving handle that will work on my cast iron handle.

Anyone have any ideas??


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## ozarkmtnhunter (Jul 17, 2005)

check grizzly or enco they should have some reasonably priced revolving handles.


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

ozarkmtnhunter said:


> check grizzly or enco they should have some reasonably priced revolving handles.


 Well, they do. The problem is, by the time I get it shipped to Canada, it's just as much, if not more than the one here. I just don't think them little handles are worth $25 or more


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

you dont need the handle to actually revolve! A fixed handle, well polished will slide fine in your hand! or nothing at all, when making large movement with the press you just kind of wing the handle with your finger and it rotates a number of times.


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## bowsmith (Sep 17, 2002)

ozarkmtnhunter said:


> Seems to me if you could build *something* that used all those parts besides a linear press then you could sell them as parts for the *other thing*. If someone wanted to buy the parts that you intended for the *other device *and build a press out of it that would be their own doing not yours.
> Perhaps a linear nut cracker or maybe a linear spring compressor.
> Just thinking out loud.
> Jerry


Except posting on the internet what the kit would be used for kind of ruins your defense. And linear "nut crackers" and "spring compressors" are not archery items, so they would be removed from AT since they are not archery or hunting related items.


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

AHHHH i see now in the signature how BOWSMITH is so involved in this! 

how you affiliated with last chance????


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## bowsmith (Sep 17, 2002)

Just friends and shooting buddies of the developers and patent holders. Have watched the press develop from it's original idea into what it has become today.


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

wheres access to the patents to see whats exactly covered and such???


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## SandSquid (Sep 2, 2008)

try these:

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/y2007/0119438.html
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/y2009/0107475.html
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/7597094.html

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/7597094.pdf


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## ozarkmtnhunter (Jul 17, 2005)

http://www.google.com/patents?id=v_...rce=gbs_overview_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q=&f=false


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## jefftmn (Jan 9, 2010)

*Thanks for press info*



hotrodderscott said:


> Couple of guys wanted to see finger set up.
> 
> View attachment 699047
> 
> ...


Thanks for all the information. These photos of the fingers mounted was the last details I needed to proceed with the building of the press.


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## bowsmith (Sep 17, 2002)

dwagoner said:


> wheres access to the patents to see whats exactly covered and such???


They are registered with the US Patent Office ( http://www.uspto.gov )

Patent #7597094 has already been issued
Patent #7644708 will be issued on 1-12-2010

Realize the patent that has already been issued covers not only the press, but also the *method* in which the press works. It is up to a manufacturer and their attorney to determine whether or not their product is previously covered by a patent. I would strongly urge anyone who decides to make and sell a product, that they contact a patent attorney to see if their product violates any existing patents. In the eyes of a court, ignorance isn't a plausible defense when it comes to patents.


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## Archeroni (Oct 3, 2008)

bowsmith said:


> They are registered with the US Patent Office ( http://www.uspto.gov )
> 
> Patent #7597094 has already been issued
> Patent #7644708 will be issued on 1-12-2010
> ...


Didn't the ELP press come out before the EZ Press and it presses from the limb tips?

Just asking.


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## EASTON94 (Jan 25, 2003)

Hmm, I understand the patent thing, and understand why those companies want to protect their ideas as it is their livelyhood. I cannot pay $600 for a press, no way I ever will...$300, yeah I'm getting alot more serious about it at that price!! '94


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## bowsmith (Sep 17, 2002)

But to design a product from scratch, build it (along with literally dozens of prototypes), develop new products, pay staff, pay employment taxes, unemployment taxes, sales taxes, business taxes, lawyer fees, etc etc, you simply can not build the press for $300. Now if you steal a design, skip paying taxes, don't have anyone else to pay, etc, then you probably could. Oh yeah, they aren't helping to sponsor this fine website either. Look up in the very top right corner of your screen and see who is. 


Archeroni,
My understanding was that the ELP originally pressed from below the cam similar to where the apple presses. The limb tip part was an add-on later. I could be wrong though.


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## capt ray (Jan 16, 2006)

reylamb said:


> Every industry is full of what you call "cry babies" protecting their intellectual property. Stealing patented ideas is every bit as illegal as walking into someone's house and stealing their bows. If someone broke into your house and stole you bows, and then posted those bows for sale on the internet, would you simply stand by and watch or would you take actions?
> 
> 
> 
> No you could not, that is still against the law and yes, stealing.


Call it what you want, it is still crying and and childish behavior. All bullets are built off a SINGLE design. All guns are built off a SINGLE design. Do you really think the archery press industry will collapse if some AT members sell a dozen or so presses. Your comparison is a bit extreme and off kilter. I am glad I don't go through life with your perspective. Keep drinking the coolaid. This country was built off an entrepreneurial spirit and people like you and unions have left us behind third world countries.


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## EASTON94 (Jan 25, 2003)

bowsmith said:


> But to design a product from scratch, build it (along with literally dozens of prototypes), develop new products, pay staff, pay employment taxes, unemployment taxes, sales taxes, business taxes, lawyer fees, etc etc, you simply can not build the press for $300. Now if you steal a design, skip paying taxes, don't have anyone else to pay, etc, then you probably could. Oh yeah, they aren't helping to sponsor this fine website either. Look up in the very top right corner of your screen and see who is.
> 
> 
> Archeroni,
> My understanding was that the ELP originally pressed from below the cam similar to where the apple presses. The limb tip part was an add-on later. I could be wrong though.


Trust me, I understand every word you are saying, but I will still never spend $600 on a press, won't happen!! I know they are a sponsor and that is awesome, and again I don't blame them a bit for vigorously defending their patent. '94


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## bowsmith (Sep 17, 2002)

capt ray said:


> Call it what you want, it is still crying and and childish behavior. All bullets are built off a SINGLE design. All guns are built off a SINGLE design. Do you really think the archery press industry will collapse if some AT members sell a dozen or so presses. Your comparison is a bit extreme and off kilter. I am glad I don't go through life with your perspective. Keep drinking the coolaid. This country was built off an entrepreneurial spirit and people like you and unions have left us behind third world countries.


The guns example is a bad one. Look up the 1851 patent lawsuit that Samuel Colt filed against Wesson & Leavitt. They stopped production on their popular revolvers until the patent expired in 1857. Many firearms and bullets are built off of expired patents. They weren't freely built when the patents were valid.

Well, the country was built on ingenuity and entrepreneurs. People who designed new things and came up with new ideas. Not just took ideas and made them their own. Patents encourage people to come up with new ideas. It encourages diversity. Without patents, people would just copy each others designs. Maybe the result of Leon's patents will be somebody developing an even better style of bow press, one that people will once again, want to copy. Sort of like when Steve Gibbs shut down the X-Press knock-offs, and Apple shut down the knock-offs of their presses.

Do you like it when China produces cheap knock-offs to sell to Americans? Stealing jobs and money from America? Because that's how China's manufacturing has grown. What about when American's produce cheap knock-offs? They are still stealing jobs and money from other Americans.


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

*Please read*

Just to reiterate, I will NOT and HAVE NOT manufactured any kind of bow press, kit for bow press, parts for bow press, linear nut cracker, or spring compressor. Please Stop sending me e-mails regarding paten infrigment, idea theft, or threat of filling a law suit with you high priced attorneys.
I have not built any parts or press for retail, the only press I have is my own!!! Selling them was just an idea I was kicking around! I have since desided this was a HARIBLE idea!!! 

I AM WILLING TO HELP FELLOW ARCHERS OUT IN ANY WAY I CAN! PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CONTACT ME WITH QUESTION OR COMENTS.

Thanks, Scott


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## DaJester (Jan 9, 2009)

Great job on the press!!! Wouldn't mind having one myself...


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## bowsmith (Sep 17, 2002)

If you would, PM me who was threatening a lawsuit. Last Chance has only contacted those people who are building and selling presses that may be in violation of the patents listed above, and has advised them to review their designs to see if there is patent infringment (with the help of their lawyers).


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

I started this thread because I built a press for my use. I am a simple Dairy farmer and there is no way I could justifiy spending $600, In fact the idea behind a bowpress was so I didn’t have to spend the money to have my pro shop do simple work that I could perform. 
After building mine I thought I could build a couple more, make a couple extra bucks and help some other archers out. With milk prices at 12.50 per hundred pounds it extreamly hard to make a living right now!
Why don’t we simply put this thread back to what it is DIY!!!


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## kody10 (Apr 24, 2009)

could u just send us what is in the last pic? no welding required for us that dont have a welder


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## capt ray (Jan 16, 2006)

bowsmith said:


> The guns example is a bad one. Look up the 1851 patent lawsuit that Samuel Colt filed against Wesson & Leavitt. They stopped production on their popular revolvers until the patent expired in 1857. Many firearms and bullets are built off of expired patents. They weren't freely built when the patents were valid.
> 
> Well, the country was built on ingenuity and entrepreneurs. People who designed new things and came up with new ideas. Not just took ideas and made them their own. Patents encourage people to come up with new ideas. It encourages diversity. Without patents, people would just copy each others designs. Maybe the result of Leon's patents will be somebody developing an even better style of bow press, one that people will once again, want to copy. Sort of like when Steve Gibbs shut down the X-Press knock-offs, and Apple shut down the knock-offs of their presses.
> 
> *Do you like it when China produces cheap knock-offs to sell to Americans? Stealing jobs and money from America?* Because that's how China's manufacturing has grown. What about when American's produce cheap knock-offs? They are still stealing jobs and money from other Americans.


Why do you think our jobs are being OUTSOURCED overseas. China is not stealing our jobs WE, the American manufacturers are giving them away. Who ever makes the best quality product at the best price got the business. That is what made America the greatest manufacturing nation ever. Then we all felt we all deserved to make $75+ per hour to assemble inferior products on an assembly line to feed our over inflated quality of life. Greedy company executives sell our jobs to foreign nations not the guy trying to make an affordable quality product that MOST people can afford.


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## capt ray (Jan 16, 2006)

hotrodderscott said:


> I started this thread because I built a press for my use. I am a simple Dairy farmer and there is no way I could justifiy spending $600, In fact the idea behind a bowpress was so I didn’t have to spend the money to have my pro shop do simple work that I could perform.
> After building mine I thought I could build a couple more, make a couple extra bucks and help some other archers out. With milk prices at 12.50 per hundred pounds it extreamly hard to make a living right now!
> *Why don’t we simply put this thread back to what it is DIY!!!*


I apologize if I have feed the hi-jacking of this thread but greedy profit driven companies have ruined this great country. Once again I apologize. By the way, you made a super fine press. "I" will be using your example.


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## SandSquid (Sep 2, 2008)

hotrodderscott said:


> I started this thread because I built a press for my use. I am a simple Dairy farmer and there is no way I could justifiy spending $600,


I feel for you brother... I run a Youth Archery Group at my church and we have a large stable of various bows. I do all the maintenance on them myself out of financial necessity. The program is completely unfunded except for what I can scrounge, beg, or make by selling strings. 
This summer I am taking 2 weeks off of work, one to go set up an archery program at a large summer camp, where I will return every weekend to do maintenance while my wife and kids stay for the summer to instruct. 
To say that I desperately need a bow press is an understatement. I asked the folks at Last Chance if they might be able to to sell my program one at a (fully tax deductible) discount, But I still cannot afford the price they offered. What other choice do I have? I'm going to be 60 miles from the nearest "city" and 100 miles form the nearest Pro Shop that even has a press I could possibly borrow. ,Meanwhile we have 24+ bows that 100+ kids each week, over 7 weeks, will want to be shooting. whaaaa whaaa whaaa.

Of all the press designs I've used and looked at, the EZ Press is the simplest and safest way to press a bow, IMO. And by far the most inexpensive press to cobble together a reasonable working copy of by the home hack...


----------



## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

hotrodderscott said:


> Why don’t we simply put this thread back to what it is DIY!!!


i need help with fingers so i can finish my press, i did all the welding last summer but never got around to fingers, if i can get a set mine will be done and ready for my use, who knows anyone selling fingers maybe???


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

I got mine from coolhandluke on here and they came with everything I needed. Great person to deal with too!!


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## pure havoc (Apr 21, 2003)

Maxtor said:


> I got mine from coolhandluke on here and they came with everything I needed. Great person to deal with too!!


Luke is all done with the fingers due to getting the patent # and the letter from LCA ez press . 
I have to agree with most of the above posts . I have made mine myself I would love to have a couple out there for other archers but If I would Im sure I will get the threatening letter as most have. Even with each component in the drive line being differnt size, different parts and different attachments attached differently it is still a patent infringement . however , all are right patents cost alot of money with legal fees etc, I myself have looked into this and yes if I were to go that route for a item I had a design for I couldnt sell it for $150 I could have , I would have had to sell it for $375 to get my money back out of the legal fees for the patent process. and again thats why china makes so many copies of stuff because they can get away with it , its cheaper to produce from china even exported to the US . So many of your jobs are gone due to foreign exports to the US . and we wonder why we have a problem here  sad but all true . Were in a sue happy world in the US and it will always be that way


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## SandSquid (Sep 2, 2008)

SandSquid said:


> I asked the folks at Last Chance if they might be able to to sell my program one at a (fully tax deductible) discount, But I still cannot afford the price they offered. What other choice do I have?



I would like to offer public apology to Last Chance Archery.

Somehow, I came off sounding unappreciative of the kind offer from Last Chance to offer me a unit at a certainly fair price. This was NOT the intent of this post, if anything I am very appreciative of their gesture and willingness to assist non-profit programs such as mine should be commended. 

As I stated, of all the press designs I've used and looked at, the EZ Press is the simplest and safest way to press a bow.

If anybody feels the need to verbally or textually admonish me feel free to do so at: goodshepherdyoutharchery<at>gmail.com (9ZERO1)283-589ZERO


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

pure havoc said:


> if I were to go that route for a item I had a design for I couldnt sell it for $150 I could have , I would have had to sell it for $375 to get my money back out of the legal fees for the patent process.]


 I agree with them having to get the money back for the fees they paid for the patent, but there's a big different between getting your money back in the long run, and getting it back and getting rich as quick as possible. I work at a place where my boss isn't out to get rich fast, so he keeps his mark up on our products low. He's still making money but not robbing people in the process, and this is why his sales have been averaging an 11% increase each year. 

You can't tell me that they can't sell these presses for a bit less than what they are now :thumbs_do


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## SandSquid (Sep 2, 2008)

Maxtor said:


> You can't tell me that they can't sell these presses for a bit less than what they are now :thumbs_do


There is a _huge difference _between making it in your garage for yourself and operating a business. shure we can build it ourselves for about $100-125, BUT
you need to consider fixed and variable allocations, rent, utilities, salary/medical insurance/workmanscomp/unemployment, cost of goods, manufacturing overhead machine costs and maintenece, etc.


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

SandSquid said:


> There is a _huge difference _between making it in your garage for yourself and operating a business. shure we can build it ourselves for about $100-125, BUT
> you need to consider fixed and variable allocations, rent, utilities, salary/medical insurance/workmanscomp/unemployment, cost of goods, manufacturing overhead machine costs and maintenece, etc.


 Sure, if they were only making one product. But I doubt that's the case. I'll bet if you got the truth, it probably cost them very little to make that press. Maybe not when they first started production of it. Doesn't really matter to me, I'd never buy one anyway, I'm just saying, that I'd bet they could drop the price a bit and not be hurting from it. In my opinion, it would be better to sell 150 or 200 of them at $200, than to sell 50 of them at $300.. JMO


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## SandSquid (Sep 2, 2008)

Maxtor said:


> Sure, if they were only making one product. .


Yes it actually costs very little to make one press. But you miss the bigger point, I'm talkign about running a business... All the basic financial and managerial accounting that everybody who does not actually run a business forgets about... But I have the benefit of an MBA and have run several sucessful and even some unsucessfull small businesses.


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## pure havoc (Apr 21, 2003)

I can tell you if you sold them for $200 Each they wouldnt be in business. im not sticking up for them I just know what it costs to run a business . Liability insurance on a piece like this is astronimical too . not to mention rent, utilities , employment , etc ..$400 would look a little more appealling to the individual looking to buy one but you will never see it there with there added expenses . Yes there making money and if they werent they wouldnt be in business


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

pure havoc said:


> I can tell you if you sold them for $200 Each they wouldnt be in business.


 That was just a number pulled out of the air as an example


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## pure havoc (Apr 21, 2003)

Maxtor said:


> That was just a number pulled out of the air as an example


I understand this but just bringing things back into perspective thats all .


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## Fire&Ice (Aug 28, 2008)

Just build Kits and sell them as Draw boards....if people put fingers on them so be it. You dont sell fingers just the a "draw board" Put a hook on one end and some kind of grip holder


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

Fire&Ice said:


> Just build Kits and sell them as Draw boards....if people put fingers on them so be it. You dont sell fingers just the a "draw board" Put a hook on one end and some kind of grip holder


 I'm betting that would still have them breathing down your neck because of the drive line being used.


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## Fire&Ice (Aug 28, 2008)

I don't think they can...they have a "EZ Press" he can sell a "Draw board tuner"...it don't "press" that would be hard for them to win that one....they may send the letters but I don't think they can win on the screw setup....I know sootballs is having a lawyer look over the deal.....But I'm sure it all about who wants to spend the money going after each other


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## Fire&Ice (Aug 28, 2008)

If look at the Pic of the Apple Press.They have the Fingers...threaded rod...... I think you just need to change the look and shape of the press maybe use round tube??


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

Fire&Ice said:


> If look at the Pic of the Apple Press.They have the Fingers...threaded rod...... I think you just need to change the look and shape of the press maybe use round tube??



Good god, look at that contraption :mg:


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## Supershark (Dec 14, 2004)

Maxtor said:


> Good god, look at that contraption :mg:


That is what I said when I looked at it originally. WOW... Bet they dont have anyone trying to copy that.


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## EASTON94 (Jan 25, 2003)

Fire&Ice said:


> If look at the Pic of the Apple Press.They have the Fingers...threaded rod...... I think you just need to change the look and shape of the press maybe use round tube??


Yeah I wonder how they got away with that....just added more metal to it looks like to me?? '94


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## SandSquid (Sep 2, 2008)

EASTON94 said:


> Yeah I wonder how they got away with that....just added more metal to it looks like to me?? '94


the horizontal screw adjusts the arm spacing, it's not used to press.


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## Bubba66 (Feb 24, 2006)

Fire&Ice said:


> If look at the Pic of the Apple Press.They have the Fingers...threaded rod...... I think you just need to change the look and shape of the press maybe use round tube??



$1,498.99 for that bad boy on their web site


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## reylamb (Feb 5, 2003)

EASTON94 said:


> Yeah I wonder how they got away with that....just added more metal to it looks like to me?? '94


Who says they have gotten away with it? Any press mfg that uses adjustable fingers has received a letter from Last Chance Archery. Some are choosing to ignore the letters in hopes that LCA will not pursue it further.


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## bowhuntern (Jan 18, 2010)

*dir bow press*

hotrodder your dir press is the best i've seen by far !!! i would be very interested in purchasing a pre-fab kit from you if you when you offer one... please pm me or call. (573) 576-8106 thanks, jim


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## 1955 (Sep 22, 2009)

Maxtor said:


> I agree with them having to get the money back for the fees they paid for the patent, but there's a big different between getting your money back in the long run, and getting it back and getting rich as quick as possible.


What do you care if they make the money fast, slow or not at all???



Maxtor said:


> He's still making money but not robbing people in the process


What the hell is the matter with you? This infers that the people that willingly give them money for their product are being robbed.



Maxtor said:


> You can't tell me that they can't sell these presses for a bit less than what they are now :thumbs_do


How about you set their prices for them...just like Obama wants to do...would that suit you? It's people like you that are ruining this country, just because you can't afford something, you expect the rest of us to subsidize whatever your little heart desires? What next...a new single wide?

So, who are you really...Nancy Pelosi?


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

1955 said:


> What do you care if they make the money fast, slow or not at all???
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Wow, someone's a little pissy aren't they?? You work for them?

Just as easy as it is for you to say it's people like me that are ruining this country, it's people like you that ruin this site. Can't just add nothing without bashing a person, but that's okay, apprarently you're what makes the country so great........


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## DaJester (Jan 9, 2009)

hotrodderscott said:


> Thinking of selling kits that would be all premachined for you to assemble! You would get everything in one box, you would have to weld it together and paint. For liability the items in the box could be welded together to form a bow press or what ever else you wanted to make from the materials.
> I need to get prices on steel and a shop price to cut some fingers on a water jet table. If their is interest let me know! try to get get final prices soon.


Definitely interested!!


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## AmishArcher (Feb 6, 2008)

SandSquid said:


> There is a _huge difference _between making it in your garage for yourself and operating a business. shure we can build it ourselves for about $100-125, BUT
> you need to consider fixed and variable allocations, rent, utilities, salary/medical insurance/workmanscomp/unemployment, cost of goods, manufacturing overhead machine costs and maintenece, etc.


amen...
There's a lot of people out there that think the boss is just lining his pockets at the expense of employees and customers. Most don't realize the hassle, over head, insurances, employment taxes, etc that it takes to make a business run.

If someone comes up with an idea that the public will pay for, its their idea, and they should be rewarded for their good work. They should be able so set their price at whatever the market will bear. if you don't think its worth $600, make your own. but the fact is that LCA has sank lots of resources and sweat into making a great product and should be rewarded. If $600 is too expensive, then no one will buy it and the free market will drive their price down. Basic economics.

the govt or anyone else telling someone what they're allowed to charge is called socialism. It happens in the tobacco and alcohol industries. and while i don't smoke or drink, i'm adamantly opposed to sanctions like that of any kind


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## TR200 (Nov 25, 2009)

There's some bows that are 24" ATA will this press go down that far?


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## meatmissile (Oct 26, 2009)

*Ttt*

Wow


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## guitar_picker0 (Jun 7, 2009)

*tubing size?*

What size of tubing is being used for this press. i was thinking 2" .120 wall with 1 3/4" .120 would work. will it?


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## skybolt (Apr 29, 2008)

AmishArcher said:


> amen...
> There's a lot of people out there that think the boss is just lining his pockets at the expense of employees and customers. Most don't realize the hassle, over head, insurances, employment taxes, etc that it takes to make a business run.
> 
> If someone comes up with an idea that the public will pay for, its their idea, and they should be rewarded for their good work. They should be able so set their price at whatever the market will bear. if you don't think its worth $600, make your own. but the fact is that LCA has sank lots of resources and sweat into making a great product and should be rewarded. If $600 is too expensive, then no one will buy it and the free market will drive their price down. Basic economics.
> ...


I think there are more jews in this country than in Israel. If someone posts something for $65.00 the first reply is $60.00. Start high.


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## ursonvs (Sep 19, 2003)

damn, talk about going TOTALLY off topic from the original post.

Scott man, i feel bad for you.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

special said:


> Normal threaded rod will only last a short time before starting to bind and then siezing..
> You need Ajax or square section thread for repetitive load under tension.
> 
> Ive had several jigs etc that have met that fate...I only use Ajax thread for presses and jigs now.


I wanted to add my 2 cents worth here. I am a welder fabricator. I am new to AT and have fabricated this type of press myself. It is THE best design on the market. Kudos to LCA. I used 5/8" all thread from your local hardware store with a 2" long coupler nut welded to the receiver tube. Put some grease on it and have had zero binding or seizing issues. I suppose if you do not align the nut with the threaded rod properly you will have this problem. I have pressed 80lb bows with one finger turning my wheel. Smooth as snot. Works great and didn't break the bank.

JT


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Hotrodderscott, I want to say again great job on your press. :thumbs_up


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## Gunner7800 (Jul 11, 2007)

Hotrodderscott,
Very nice press, you did a fine job building it. I built mine a few months ago but I made a generic bearing assembly for the acme thread to ride in and I would like to improve that.

Could you, or anybody else for that matter, give me a better idea of which bearing assembly you use in this case. Most that I've found do not take a linear load, just a lateral load.

Thanks.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

I used two thrust washers either side of the plate on mine. They were under $10.00 for both at an online bearing supply. Completely overkill but then I wont ever have to worry about it again.

JT


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Maxtor said:


> Can you believe.....
> 
> Ordered the cast iron handle for my press, which was $35 in my area. The description said it was suppose to have the revolving handle on it, but when I got it, the revolving handle wasn't on it. The guy that ordered it for me calls the company to inquire about it and they told him that the "fine print" says that the little revolving handle must be purchased separately and is another $25. I damn near passed out when he told me that.......:angry:
> 
> ...


$5.50 for the wheel AND the handle!:wink:

http://grizzly.com/outlet/Hand-Wheel-6-1-4-/H3474

JT:wink:


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

BowhunterJT said:


> I used two thrust washers either side of the plate on mine. They were under $10.00 for both at an online bearing supply. Completely overkill but then I wont ever have to worry about it again.
> 
> JT


Here is the link to the inexpensive Thrust Washers I mentioned.

http://www.qbcbearings.com/BuyRFQ/ThrustB_Bearing_TPS_I.htm#

JT:wink:


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

BowhunterJT said:


> $5.50 for the wheel AND the handle!:wink:
> 
> http://grizzly.com/outlet/Hand-Wheel-6-1-4-/H3474
> 
> JT:wink:



But it has to be a minimum order of $50 before they will ship something to Canada. You got a good deal on that though.


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## guitar_picker0 (Jun 7, 2009)

what thickness is the 2" tube? thanks


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

guitar_picker0 said:


> what thickness is the 2" tube? thanks


 1/16th inch is what most use I believe guitar_picker


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## jwcatto (Jul 27, 2006)

Good,
Back to some useful info. Thanks fellas


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## 1955 (Sep 22, 2009)

Maxtor said:


> Wow, someone's a little pissy aren't they??
> Yes, whenever I read communist viewpoints in a post.
> 
> You work for them? No, should I?
> ...


If this site can be ruined by calling out a business bashing, whining, crybaby socialist, then let them ban me. You can't build it yourself, but you feel that it's ok to demand that others lower the price of their hard work just to accommodate you, without even knowing what it cost them to sell it. If they're asking too much for their product, then they will go out of business...at least, that's the way it used to work in this country. And then you compare one business owner to another and insist that one act like the other, so go ahead and roll your red eyes as much as you like.

How about this, instead of bashing a company that's trying to protect their hard earned patent, go out and risk your own money to build a better one, hire your own lawyers for the patent and build up the company yourself.


----------



## ruttnwapati (Sep 22, 2008)

1955 said:


> If this site can be ruined by calling out a business bashing, whining, crybaby socialist, then let them ban me. You can't build it yourself, but you feel that it's ok to demand that others lower the price of their hard work just to accommodate you, without even knowing what it cost them to sell it. If they're asking too much for their product, then they will go out of business...at least, that's the way it used to work in this country. And then you compare one business owner to another and insist that one act like the other, so go ahead and roll your red eyes as much as you like.
> 
> How about this, instead of bashing a company that's trying to protect their hard earned patent, go out and risk your own money to build a better one, hire your own lawyers for the patent and build up the company yourself.


Wow,
Poor hotrodderscott's press thread was back on track and pretty useful until
this SH*t popped back up


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## Gunner7800 (Jul 11, 2007)

*Great idea*

How 'bout you two fellers give each other your phone numbers. That way you can call each other, scream all you want, then slam the phone down and feel better. Either that or start you own thread and bash each other all you want. 

Personally I'd like to know more about the press.:darkbeer:


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## Gunner7800 (Jul 11, 2007)

BowhunterJT said:


> I used two thrust washers either side of the plate on mine. They were under $10.00 for both at an online bearing supply. Completely overkill but then I wont ever have to worry about it again.
> 
> JT


That's what I have now and I don't like the way the press feels when I crank down a bow. I'm really just wanting to get mine to operate smoother and was hoping a flange bearing would do the job.

When you say you used 2 thrust bearings I'm assuming you put one inside the arm for draw board reasons, and the other is outside the arm for press reasons. I have one on the inside held in place by a nut. Is that how you did it, or do you have a locking collar or something like that?


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

No thanks Gunner, have better things to do

@ Guitar_Picker
If you're using the fingers like most are, the piece of steal in between them is 1" thick. This gives you the needed clearance in between the fingers for your cam.


----------



## Twiztd1 (Oct 17, 2002)

Scott did you ever get the draw board finished?????


----------



## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

Gunner7800 said:


> That's what I have now and I don't like the way the press feels when I crank down a bow. I'm really just wanting to get mine to operate smoother and was hoping a flange bearing would do the job.
> 
> When you say you used 2 thrust bearings I'm assuming you put one inside the arm for draw board reasons, and the other is outside the arm for press reasons. I have one on the inside held in place by a nut. Is that how you did it, or do you have a locking collar or something like that?


 If you had a flanged bearing on the outside, like in the one picture, would that eliminate the need for an inside bearing?


----------



## Gunner7800 (Jul 11, 2007)

Maxtor said:


> No thanks Gunner, have better things to do
> 
> @ Guitar_Picker
> If you're using the fingers like most are, the piece of steal in between them is 1" thick. This gives you the needed clearance in between the fingers for your cam.


That's too bad, coulda been interesting. lol:grin:

I actually used a 1/2" piece of steel between my fingers. I found that if I made that piece too wide, then my fingers were not completely on the limb tips. But I guess it's really up to whatever bow(s) you're gonna be pressing with it.


----------



## Gunner7800 (Jul 11, 2007)

Maxtor said:


> If you had a flanged bearing on the outside, like in the one picture, would that eliminate the need for an inside bearing?


That's exactly what I'm hoping for.


----------



## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

Will be putting mine together probably next week. Hopefully the 1" piece doesn't turn out to be too big. I want to make sure that the limbs are completely seated. Better to be safe than sorry


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Gunner7800 said:


> That's what I have now and I don't like the way the press feels when I crank down a bow. I'm really just wanting to get mine to operate smoother and was hoping a flange bearing would do the job.
> 
> When you say you used 2 thrust bearings I'm assuming you put one inside the arm for draw board reasons, and the other is outside the arm for press reasons. I have one on the inside held in place by a nut. Is that how you did it, or do you have a locking collar or something like that?


I do have one on the inside. My press is not used for a draw board yet but did make it that way for future mods. You all can see my work on my profile. I just uploaded the pics and info on it. I have absolutely no issues with binding or seizing. It is incredibly smooth.:wink:


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## pure havoc (Apr 21, 2003)

I used one of these on the inside and took off the excess off the back smooth as butter and you dont have to worry about sideloading a bearing if your using it as a drawboard 
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=325-7576&PMPXNO=5873912


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

have not had time to work on the draw board yet. have to John Deere 4440 torn down in the shop. one bad trans, one blown motor  for now i did what everyone else did! put a pipe in one side aircraft cable on the other and used the press. I want to build a stand alone one.


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## fire814 (Jan 29, 2005)

Couple of questions (lots of ???)

1. Will the fingers and the way that you have them mounted, be adjustable for Mathews bows like the new Z7?

2. What keeps the fingers in place on the shaft on the shaft? Why don't they slide off?

3. What do you use for the shaft?

4. What is the purpose of a draw board?

5. Anybody know where I can get the fingers?

You can PM me if you would like


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

*finger pic*

View attachment press fingers.pdf


View attachment press fingers longer.pdf


Found this here on AT It is not my design!, I feel that the measurements in second pic would need to be changed to fit large cam bows like Alien X and new X7
Thought it may help some of you guys out!


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## slaz (Jan 12, 2008)

hotrodderscott said:


> View attachment 709195
> 
> 
> View attachment 709197
> ...


has anybody used either of these drawings? do they work??? i have mine at the machine shop right now and may want to change over to the first drawing. should i change mine?


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## 1snapple (Jan 25, 2010)

NICE JOB. you might be a ******* if...... Joking. Make me one ASAP. way to be innovative.


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## je4bowhuntin (Jan 25, 2009)

make it outa a hydraulic jack......:zip:


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

Okay, slight problem and I'd like to get your opinions on this.

The only steel I can get here is, for the main arm would be 1 5/8" I.D. and the inside tube would be 1 1/2" O.D.

Would that 1/8" leave too much play in between the two arms for a press? I can't even get any flat steel here thin enough to where I could tack it in the inside of the main arm to take up some of the slack.

Let me know your thoughts if you think it will be fine, or too much play.


Thanks


----------



## SandSquid (Sep 2, 2008)

Maxtor said:


> Let me know your thoughts if you think it will be fine, or too much play.


Get some strips of pressure sensitive taped backed UHMW Plastic to shim it on two faces with .1/8" or 4 faces w. 1/16".... takes upspace and decreases drag.

http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Slick_Strips


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## outdoorsnow (Apr 25, 2006)

Good Link!!


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

Wonder if I found some flat 1/16" steel and tacked a 5 or 6" long piece just inside the one end of the main tube where the inside tube comes out, if that would be enough to take out the play. Think I would only need to put two pieces in, one on a side edge and one on the upper or lower edge

Thoughts?


----------



## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Maxtor said:


> Wonder if I found some flat 1/16" steel and tacked a 5 or 6" long piece just inside the one end of the main tube where the inside tube comes out, if that would be enough to take out the play. Think I would only need to put two pieces in, one on a side edge and one on the upper or lower edge
> 
> Thoughts?


 What you could do is weld a 1"-2" bead down all four sides and then grind the welds down until it fits nicely inside the receiver tube. OR do as I did and go with trailer receiver hitch tube steel. That gets a little expensive though. $30-$40 per foot.

I think you'll like the results of placing welds down the sides then grind to fit.

JT


----------



## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

Ya, I might just try the welding down the sides JT. Never even thought of doing that.. Thanks

Gonna book mark yours SandSquid, just in case :thumbs_up


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

sandsquid, that plastic slick strip look like a neat idea!


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

I just ordered a roll of 1" x 1/16" of that tape that SandSquid pointed out. Had to see how good it is ... lol

Hope it sticks to steel really good


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## SandSquid (Sep 2, 2008)

Maxtor said:


> I just ordered a roll of 1" x 1/16" of that tape that SandSquid pointed out. Had to see how good it is ... lol


It's "Slicker'n snot on a door knob"



> Hope it sticks to steel really good


Just clean it really well w/ acetone or MEK first.


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

Maxtor, How did you make out with the plastic slider strips? I think im going to order some for another project. I dont think i have room to slip it in my press but would work good for another idea! :elch:


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

hotrodderscott said:


> Maxtor, How did you make out with the plastic slider strips? I think im going to order some for another project. I dont think i have room to slip it in my press but would work good for another idea! :elch:


 Still waiting for it to arrive :sad:

Hope it helps because I think I'm getting a lot of friction in the press from all the play there is between the two sections. I get the inside arm almost drawn all the way in and then it gets tuff to turn the handle.

At least I HOPE that's what the problem is.


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## hoytusaproelite (Jan 20, 2005)

*Bow Press*

I just want to let everyone know who plans on building a press. If you talk to BowTech, Matthews and Hoyt. They will not warrenty your bow if it is not put on a press that is approved by them. I know its nice to have one but is it worth the chance of twisting limbs and have to replace them with your own money. I work at a archery shop and we are told by the companies that all work needs to be done by an approved press.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

hoytusaproelite said:


> I just want to let everyone know who plans on building a press. If you talk to BowTech, Matthews and Hoyt. They will not warrenty your bow if it is not put on a press that is approved by them. I know its nice to have one but is it worth the chance of twisting limbs and have to replace them with your own money. I work at a archery shop and we are told by the companies that all work needs to be done by an approved press.


Thanks, but I'm sure that most on here understands this and Last Chance Archery "EZ Press" design is at the top of ALL manufactures list of "approved" press's. This is what we all are duplicating. There for there are no worries.:wink:

JT


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

SandSquid said:


> Get some strips of pressure sensitive taped backed UHMW Plastic to shim it on two faces with .1/8" or 4 faces w. 1/16".... takes upspace and decreases drag.
> 
> http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Slick_Strips


 Just a FYI. If anyone is thinking of ordering this stuff and you need International shipping, do yourself a favor and come up with another idea instead. A $24 roll of this stuff just set me back a grand total of $65  by the time I was done with the companies shipping price, and then of coarse UPS has to dig into your pockets again on this side of the border. 

Haven't had a chance to try it out yet but for that kind of money, it better work magic


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## SandSquid (Sep 2, 2008)

"Gouge and Screw Tax", eh?


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

SandSquid said:


> "Gouge and Screw Tax", eh?


 :wink: you got that right


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## ruttnwapati (Sep 22, 2008)

*All in One Device*



IL Bowhunter 82 said:


> You will see it in due time, Havoc and I are putting the final touches on one and may make some changes before we post it up and yes it can be used as a "Hooter Shooter" but the user will have to supply the shooting device. And yes the vise on it is freaking awesome. For another teaser, you can have a bow in the vise and still use the draw board or press at the same time.:zip:


How much longer before we Pics of this thing?


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## skynight (Nov 5, 2003)

Maxtor said:


> Just a FYI. If anyone is thinking of ordering this stuff and you need International shipping, do yourself a favor and come up with another idea instead. A $24 roll of this stuff just set me back a grand total of $65  by the time I was done with the companies shipping price, and then of coarse UPS has to dig into your pockets again on this side of the border.
> 
> Haven't had a chance to try it out yet but for that kind of money, it better work magic


Curious how the tape will work. I went with the welded bead and it worked out:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1130315


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

skynight said:


> Curious how the tape will work. I went with the welded bead and it worked out:
> 
> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1130315


 Well, got the tape put on last night and it seems to work pretty good, however, my press turns real nice until the inside tube gets about 3/4 of the way in, then it starts to get tough to turn it and I'm not real sure why. Going to have to look into that though because I don't like it the way it is now.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Maxtor said:


> Well, got the tape put on last night and it seems to work pretty good, however, my press turns real nice until the inside tube gets about 3/4 of the way in, then it starts to get tough to turn it and I'm not real sure why. Going to have to look into that though because I don't like it the way it is now.


It could be that your receiving nut is not centered up properly with your threaded rod/ACME rod. As your tube with the nut gets closer to the hand wheel end if it is off center even a little it will cause that tube to bind with the receiving tube. Just a thought.

JT


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

BowhunterJT said:


> It could be that your receiving nut is not centered up properly with your threaded rod/ACME rod. As your tube with the nut gets closer to the hand wheel end if it is off center even a little it will cause that tube to bind with the receiving tube. Just a thought.
> 
> JT



Thanks JT, that's what I was leaning towards as well but wasn't 100% certain. Hopefully later today I can have a look at it and maybe correct it


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## alphaburner (Jan 28, 2010)

*press*

looks great,really clean.


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

Okay, thanks to everyone's pics, instructions, etc here. This thread will be one that helps many people for a long time I believe. :wink:

Finally got the press done and yes, it was a matter of the receiving nut not being 100% centered. Got that all sorted and now it works really good.

Here's a couple pics and the one pic also shows the plastic tape I used to fill in the gap because of not being able to get nestable tubing here. ** You'll have to excuse the mess but since building this press, I am having to build another bench for my work area and redo the whole space :thumbs_up


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## ursonvs (Sep 19, 2003)

^^ dontcha just hate it when you have to expand your fun area because you improived it with better tooling? :shade:

looks like a damn nice job bud.


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

ursonvs said:


> ^^ dontcha just hate it when you have to expand your fun area because you improived it with better tooling? :shade:
> 
> looks like a damn nice job bud.


 Thanks!!

and ya, nothing worse then having to expand the play area 

Got the fingers rubber dipped finally. Can you believe, I had to get that plastiDip stuff ordered special because no one sells it around here anymore.


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## SandSquid (Sep 2, 2008)

*My new press....*

Made entirely from scrap metal and various stuff around the shop..... 
Not a single penny was spent even the paint was left-overs.

The 2 most important features are the reversable fingers, and the collapsible legs so it can be mounted at


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## gr8brew (Feb 4, 2007)

1955 said:


> If this site can be ruined by calling out a business bashing, whining, crybaby socialist, then let them ban me. You can't build it yourself, but you feel that it's ok to demand that others lower the price of their hard work just to accommodate you, without even knowing what it cost them to sell it. If they're asking too much for their product, then they will go out of business...at least, that's the way it used to work in this country. And then you compare one business owner to another and insist that one act like the other, so go ahead and roll your red eyes as much as you like.
> 
> How about this, instead of bashing a company that's trying to protect their hard earned patent, go out and risk your own money to build a better one, hire your own lawyers for the patent and build up the company yourself.


1955 I like your sig about the ATF. Perhaps that store could sell Marijuana as well ATFM. I'm all for being free.


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## SandSquid (Sep 2, 2008)

Maxtor said:


> Here's a couple pics and the one pic also shows the plastic tape I used to fill in the gap because of not being able to get nestable tubing here


So, the tape work out for you?


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## SandSquid (Sep 2, 2008)

SandSquid said:


> collapsible legs so it can be mounted at


That should have read: "collapsible legs so it can be mounted on at standard bench height or free standing". 

Or by drilling new holes it can be set to ANY height :mg: feel free to copy this idea!


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Looks great Sandquid and Maxtor.

JT


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

SandSquid said:


> So, the tape work out for you?


 You bet, it took all the play out of the press and it sticks real well, even to the painted surface. I even have a bunch left over for any other job :thumbs_up


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## SandSquid (Sep 2, 2008)

I'm going to be gluing some 3/16""bark tanned leather to the inside face of the arms, shoudl provide nice protections to the limb tips and never slip or cut.


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

SandSquid said:


> I'm going to be gluing some 3/16""bark tanned leather to the inside face of the arms, shoudl provide nice protections to the limb tips and never slip or cut.


 I think that would work really well! I only gave my fingers one coat of that PlastiDip stuff but might give them a second coat


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

SandSquid said:


> I'm going to be gluing some 3/16""bark tanned leather to the inside face of the arms, shoudl provide nice protections to the limb tips and never slip or cut.


That is a great idea! I'm am going to do that as well.

JT


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## rider01 (Jan 29, 2010)

That is so cool! Way better than my old home built press


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## achiro (Jan 26, 2009)

fire814 said:


> Couple of questions (lots of ???)
> 
> 1. Will the fingers and the way that you have them mounted, be adjustable for Mathews bows like the new Z7?
> 
> ...


Anyone have an answer for 1, 2, and 3?


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

achiro said:


> Anyone have an answer for 1, 2, and 3?


I'll try a couple of them. 

1) - I'd have to know what the distance is between the limbs of the Mathews Z7 but I would almost bet they will work for any bow.

2) - There's absolutely nothing that keeps them on the shaft. They slide on, you slide them into place for whatever bow it is you're doing. Once a little pressure is applied to the limbs, it's that force alone that keeps the fingers from moving. Trust me when I say, once that bow is pressed, there's no way them fingers are sliding. You'd have to bump it pretty hard for them to move.

3) - Now, this I might not be 100% correct on because mine came with the fingers but I believe it's 1 inch cold rod used to hold the fingers


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## Sideways (Feb 13, 2006)

Thanks hotrodder, I am going to build one of these!

Hey, the search button does work!


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## orarcher (Jun 3, 2006)

Boy this is a old one !!


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## RampageXT1 (Dec 26, 2011)

Ya, but what a press. I am going to have to try this one out.


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## pigstickin (Mar 2, 2012)

Love this press and cant wait to make one. I'm thinking i'll video the steps and post the video. May need a bit of help with the acme rod connection to wheel as i do not have a lathe. still thinking that one through..open to suggestions!!


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## ruttnwapati (Sep 22, 2008)

orarcher said:


> Boy this is a old one !!


x2 !!


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## pigstickin (Mar 2, 2012)

I will gladly make 2 or more, if you or someone can help me get my hands on some fingers! I don't have access to a water jet and the local shops are way to expensive.


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

Holly Crap, I cant believe people are still looking at this thread! 
Well I can say I have been using the press in my shop for about 3 years, Gets used on a regular bases and I have had zero problem with the press it self. year and half ago I made a second set of fingers that were 2" longer and a fifth finger with the tip cut off so a can press bow with cam mounted draw stops without having to remove it (Bowtech's mostly) 90% of the time I use the original finger but time to time I need a longer set for bows with LARGE cams that would hit the center mount. 
Sorry to say but after all the **** and threats I received when I first posted about building kit for people I nixed the idea!!! I never built, sold, or fabricated and press except for the one I use! Nor will I ever!!!


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

pigstickin said:


> I will gladly make 2 or more, if you or someone can help me get my hands on some fingers! I don't have access to a water jet and the local shops are way to expensive.


Be careful posting your willingness to duplicate a patented product on an open forum, you never know who is reading!
Take it from me making a couple bucks while helping people out can get you in some trouble!!!!


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## pigstickin (Mar 2, 2012)

Threats, really! No Worries. I always add my own touch to any build. I was going to make mine have the ability to rotate 360* & lock w/in any position in that rage. I'm not in it for a few bucks, i just want one for myself but, there seems to be a real demand for that style press though.
I've been in archery for about 6 months now and have had to make a 120 mi. round trip to the bow shop one to many times to have a twist put in the string for peep issues, cam changes and so on and so on...It's getting old to say the least! I also like to tinker with my own toys! Always gives me a better understanding & appreciation for what i'm doing. 
Anyways..would you be willing to share a file on the fingers mock-up (anyone)? It would be helpful to see a close up of how the fingers connects w/the adjustable features. Maybe some close-up pics of the acme rod/wheel assembly (connection points)?
I would cut my own with a torch and polish em' down and rubber dip em' but, everyone seems to stress the precision accuracy when it comes to the fingers mock-up. In my opinion, i think as long as i'm within a 1/16" of each piece with a rubber dip finish, should still work fine. Like i said, this isn't going to market, it's going to get some stickers slapped on it and bolted to my work bench! 
Thanks for the responses though.


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

The Patent is not only on the "Press" The patent is on HOW THE PRESS WORKS" LCA own the patent on the way the press compresses the bow from the limb tips! It is my understand (at least 3 years ago) that any company that produces a bow press that compresses the bow from the limb tips is/has to pay a royalty to LCA. All this could have changed or the last couple year but at the time that was the deal! 




pigstickin said:


> Threats, really! No Worries. I always add my own touch to any build. I was going to make mine have the ability to rotate 360* & lock w/in any position in that rage. I'm not in it for a few bucks, i just want one for myself but, there seems to be a real demand for that style press though.
> I've been in archery for about 6 months now and have had to make a 120 mi. round trip to the bow shop one to many times to have a twist put in the string for peep issues, cam changes and so on and so on...It's getting old to say the least! I also like to tinker with my own toys! Always gives me a better understanding & appreciation for what i'm doing.
> Anyways..would you be willing to share a file on the fingers mock-up (anyone)? It would be helpful to see a close up of how the fingers connects w/the adjustable features. Maybe some close-up pics of the acme rod/wheel assembly (connection points)?
> I would cut my own with a torch and polish em' down and rubber dip em' but, everyone seems to stress the precision accuracy when it comes to the fingers mock-up. In my opinion, i think as long as i'm within a 1/16" of each piece with a rubber dip finish, should still work fine. Like i said, this isn't going to market, it's going to get some stickers slapped on it and bolted to my work bench!
> Thanks for the responses though.


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## pigstickin (Mar 2, 2012)

Finished the press months ago but, forgot to thank everyone that helped me get the information and parts to complete it. So...thank you everyone for your help! The build was pretty easy to do and had no problems getting the pressing arm to "line up" without binding. The press works great and love having it. Thank again!! 
Tried to upload a pic but it failed for some reason. I'll try again another time.


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## stanlh (Jul 23, 2010)

for reference


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## turkeytom (May 8, 2003)

tagged for later


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## DrenalinHntr1 (Oct 10, 2012)

Tagged for reference


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## noahwhitten (Jul 17, 2015)

Wow, that is a nice set up! Pretty crazy!


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## flpickrel (Jul 12, 2015)

awesome job


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## Big_Jav (Jun 13, 2015)

That look good


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## Conquest0901 (Jun 28, 2013)

Very impressive!!


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## DentTek (May 7, 2019)

Nice for sure


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## Country09 (Jul 13, 2017)

Very nice


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## molarmechanic (Aug 19, 2016)

Looks like it could be found in a pro shop. Very impressive


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## VLuong24 (Aug 4, 2018)

Looks great!


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## Fxxtoo (May 14, 2018)

Nice Job.


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## dbowhunter31 (Mar 8, 2009)

saving this one for this winter


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## 616402 (Feb 2, 2016)

Nice press!


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## rodco03 (Feb 5, 2019)

awesome job looks just like one you would buy from store. great work.


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## knedlin12 (Nov 12, 2018)

Nice press, great job.


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## Burnettcj (May 1, 2019)

Great work


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## Fxxtoo (May 14, 2018)

Very nice, making my own with a few mods.


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## Jayjb (Mar 13, 2019)

That's awesome I need to get a wheel like that to change out my lca press handle.


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## Lizanaboy101 (Jul 20, 2010)

Nice....


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## tray828 (Aug 26, 2019)

Makes me sad that I bought one..


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## camocrazy1983 (Dec 1, 2012)

Jayjb said:


> That's awesome I need to get a wheel like that to change out my lca press handle.


 i repurposed an old floor lamp base, works great


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## TheOGPro308 (Sep 18, 2014)

Looks good. Where did you get the fingers?


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## howdawg81 (May 15, 2019)

Nice!


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## Jonesy0000 (Sep 23, 2019)

Very nice bit of kit! Too good to paint.


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## PlanetMarz (Oct 21, 2017)

Build by a pro..


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## Bowshtr400 (Aug 20, 2016)

nice


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## aspin_10 (Sep 11, 2017)

This looks awesome!!


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## Serb (Feb 17, 2018)

That is very well done! nicest DIY press I've seen on here by far. I appreciate the skill people have when it comes to constructing something from scratch. Just awesome hotrodderscott.


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## lycokayaker (Sep 23, 2018)

nice job!


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## bigbuckdn (Sep 19, 2007)

Nice job looks great


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## notoriousbog14 (Jul 5, 2013)

fine fine craftmanship right there good work.


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## JoeT3 (Sep 29, 2019)

This is super helpful info here. Thanks for taking the time with photos and insight.


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## dlb511 (Jul 16, 2019)

Ok, looks like this is the one to make.


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## schaapstick (Oct 8, 2017)

Is this stainless steel or regular steel?


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## archer 300 (Oct 10, 2019)

wow. outstanding job. looks professional.


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## Mattcler1 (4 mo ago)

One of the best diy presses I’ve seen!


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