# Why can't I tune a PSE ?



## P&y only (Feb 26, 2009)

Nobody likes to hear this. But if you have moved the rest way over and the bareshaft doesn't move the problem is going to be you torquing the bow. Now, I'm not saying your squeezin the juice out of an orange or anything but you need to get your grip real loose and sitting just in the crotch of your thumb while tuning. If you aren't torquing, a little movement of the rest will move the bareshaft a long ways.


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## mikesmith66 (Aug 8, 2008)

Oh I can take the criticism. No problems there. But I've tried just about every type of hand position a guy can try ya know. That was first thing I tried before I even started to adjust the bow. 

I havne't had any issues with my grip on the hoyts and mathews I've tuned. I'm gonna try and have a buddy come over and shoot it one nite this week and see what he does with it.


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## Scott.Barrett (Oct 26, 2008)

I had a similar issue with one of my Supra's....Ended up taking the limbs off and contacting PSE as to where the limbs should be positioned. Unlike Hoyt, each limb can have a different deflection and they are marked with a dot if they are bottom limbs. Turned out that mine had the strongest on the inside and they needed to be on the outside. Changed that and it shot a bullet hole....

I've also heard of swapping very thin spacers around to eliminate the tear as well, but I have not had to do it.


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## P&y only (Feb 26, 2009)

Forget the paper once and just do a walkback tune and see what happens.


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## threetoe (May 13, 2011)

Could it be you and not the bow?


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## BDZ65 (May 20, 2004)

I am going through the same thing with my brothers Hoyt Trykon XL right now. I have (3) PSE's that all tune very easy for me, but this Trykon is something else. To be fair I had this same problem with a PSE some years ago, I also just bought a used Contender here on AT and it tuned very easy. In my opinion this problem results when the torque induced by the cables running over the cable guard is not fully canceled by an opposite torque induced at the grip. If you could move your grip point closer to the cable guard and further from the string power stroke line this situation can be improved. I have found that: moving cam spacers around, twisting the yoke on the cable guard side of the bow and even modifying the shape of a wood grip have worked for me over the years. All of my experience has been with right hand bows and when I experience a problem is usually a right tear issue. To prove this theory take one of these bows and purposely torque the riser in a CCW rotation, when looking down onto the top limb, and see if your tear does not move significantly to the left! Back in the 90's PSE came fitted with a grip that could be adjusted left and right, this seemed to work well for me.


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## mikesmith66 (Aug 8, 2008)

I can see if being me, and how I hold the bow at full draw. 'm not ruling that out. Honestly, though, I've been shooting for over 20 years, and doing my own tuning for quite some time now. I've never had a bow do this. And I've experimented with several different grip styles the past few days. Even purposely tried to twist or torque the riser to make it tear differently, and it did nothing. This is what has me baffled. No matter what I do, I get a low/right tear. 

P&Y Only - I haven't done any sort of walk back or french tune with it yet. Mostly because while I'm doing this tune on the bow, I'm also in the middle of building myself a new target to put outside. So for now, I'm limited in my distance shooting. I can do 20 yds for bare shaft, that's about it for now. Might get to shoot past 20 tomorrow evening. 

I'm going to look on the limb order issue also. I've done some research on that this morning and I think it may be worth a call to PSE to check on the correct orientation.


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## BDZ65 (May 20, 2004)

I did not mean to imply it was you, what I ment to say is grab the grip and purposely apply torque and see what happens, this may tell you something. If have never experienced a case where purposely torquing the bow makes no difference in paper tear.


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## mikesmith66 (Aug 8, 2008)

I know what you were referring to. Somebody else mentioned it being me, that's what I was referring to.

I'm just gonna have to try to apply a little more torque to it than I was and see how it reacts. Maybe I wasen't doing enough - as I'm not used to having to do that to see how a bow reacts. Like I said, I'm kinda scratching my head because I never had this happen before. 

I have a buddy coming over tomorrow to shoot it to compare our results. 



BDZ65 said:


> I did not mean to imply it was you, what I ment to say is grab the grip and purposely apply torque and see what happens, this may tell you something. If have never experienced a case where purposely torquing the bow makes no difference in paper tear.


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## RONMARRIOTT (Apr 11, 2010)

I have trb holding hoyt bows the grip is a little diff angle and i fight it causing a bad tear so i have to force open hand shootin paper. This is off the wall but i lost it trying to set an Alpha burner up i just could not get it! My lil brother came by and shot it and perfect bullet hole!!!!!!!!!!!!! not sayin it was me but IT WAS ME! might try that test see if it works all PSE i work on you can just about set rest dead center and nock level and they shoot. If nock is high they do have bad flight i noticed?


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## mikesmith66 (Aug 8, 2008)

I guess everyone is different. You can get PSE's to tune well, and I can't. But you struggle with a Hoyt, and I don't :darkbeer:. 

Not to rub it in Mr. Marriot, but I have a Alphaburner setting at home that I can practically shoot standing on my head and get a perfect hole in paper, with a bare shaft, out to 15 feet from the paper. 

I've had the nock dead level and started there. I won't even discuss how bad the low tear was LOL. Only when I move the nock up to almost 3/8" above 90 degrees do I start to get somewhat reasonable nock travel. 





RONMARRIOTT said:


> I have trb holding hoyt bows the grip is a little diff angle and i fight it causing a bad tear so i have to force open hand shootin paper. This is off the wall but i lost it trying to set an Alpha burner up i just could not get it! My lil brother came by and shot it and perfect bullet hole!!!!!!!!!!!!! not sayin it was me but IT WAS ME! might try that test see if it works all PSE i work on you can just about set rest dead center and nock level and they shoot. If nock is high they do have bad flight i noticed?


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## trumankayak (Dec 28, 2011)

If I have an issue with centershot ( after the top yoke is set )...
Look at the limbs , cam shims , idler placement etc.
First and easiest thing is to flip limbs if you have a press. I know it seems silly but one limb being a fraction off in length or deflection will really throw off the centershot.
Next is cam spacing. It amazes Me how some bows leave the factory with incorrect shim sizing or placement. And sometimes it happens when someone tears a bow down and does not re-assemble the eccentrics correctly. It doesnt hurt to have some micro shims in your too kit.
Bareshaft tells alot and distance magnifies that. But all this only applies if the draw length is perfect and one has proper alignment.
Testing bow hand torque is pretty easy with a bareshaft at 20yds.
hand in center fletchshaft then bareshaft
more thumb fletchshaft then bareshaft
more palm fletchshaft then bareshaft
You will see the difference.And in the end , some people just cannot shoot certain grips well.


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## J-Daddy (Aug 7, 2003)

Normally on a PSE it comes down to 1 of 2 things....Assuming arrow spine is within reason.
Yoke tuning or grip. 
If I have one that's ripping crazy through paper yoke tune always fixes it for me....I don't have issues with PSE grips, I love them, best grip on the market for me.
I'm betting yours has to do with the grip since it sounds like you've done everything else to cure it. I've gotta new Vendetta DC and it'll shoot bullet holes through paper with a bare shaft & a fletched shaft for me.


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## mikesmith66 (Aug 8, 2008)

I won't get to mess with the bow again till tomorrow evening most likely. I'm keeping track of all the stuff you guys have responded. Hopefully, I'll have some better results to report come wednesday or thursday.


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## RONMARRIOTT (Apr 11, 2010)

*pse tune*



mikesmith66 said:


> I guess everyone is different. You can get PSE's to tune well, and I can't. But you struggle with a Hoyt, and I don't :darkbeer:.
> 
> Not to rub it in Mr. Marriot, but I have a Alphaburner setting at home that I can practically shoot standing on my head and get a perfect hole in paper, with a bare shaft, out to 15 feet from the paper.
> 
> I've had the nock dead level and started there. I won't even discuss how bad the low tear was LOL. Only when I move the nock up to almost 3/8" above 90 degrees do I start to get somewhat reasonable nock travel.


Ya i hear ya man its funny deal huh since i was a mathews guy with the big bulky grips ! I like to shoot a few Hoyts but i over think it when tuning one ! And one will spank me for trying !


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## Rick! (Aug 10, 2008)

mikesmith66 said:


> So this is bugging me. I'd really really like to buy a Vendetta or Madness 3G for hunting this year, but I'm having a heluva time tuning the PSE's bow that my buddies are loaning me.
> 
> So far this summer, I've borrowed a Vedetta XL, and a 2011 Supra single cam. With both bows, I was given the green light to do whatever I had to do to get them to work for me. Change DL, weights, timing etc. And I did.
> 
> ...


Is this the same Supra you almost had dialed in on the ALC thread or is it another one?
I'm in the process of dialing in my BM XL so when I'm done I'll post it up here. Mine likes the nock a bit higher than level, poundage dialed up a bit and I'll play with the yoke a little bit in the next few days for a low right nock at 20yds. My cable rod is really close to my fletching so I'll be moving that away from the string in the next few days. My bareshafts are acting especially stiff. I'l also be checking by bareshafts so I can put the stiff side up. One thing that is certain, bareshafts are really sensitive to a clean release and follow through - seemingly more so than fixed broadheads.


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## mikesmith66 (Aug 8, 2008)

Yea the guy loaned it back to me again. I never had it as good as I would of liked, and wanted to go further with it. I got it to get a decent tear 2 months ago, but never got a good bare shaft tune with it. At least nothing as good as my hoyts. I can get them to group very well at 20, and most of the time at 30. This bow ain't even close. 

A few things are different now. I'm focusing on getting ACC 3-28's to fly. And the medallions I was using back then are 3/4" shorter. Mostly because I had them cut to tune out of my contender I was shooting at the time. 

I'm hoping to get time to mess with it tonite. Definitely will be shooting it tomorrow morning. 



Rick! said:


> Is this the same Supra you almost had dialed in on the ALC thread or is it another one?
> I'm in the process of dialing in my BM XL so when I'm done I'll post it up here. Mine likes the nock a bit higher than level, poundage dialed up a bit and I'll play with the yoke a little bit in the next few days for a low right nock at 20yds. My cable rod is really close to my fletching so I'll be moving that away from the string in the next few days. My bareshafts are acting especially stiff. I'l also be checking by bareshafts so I can put the stiff side up. One thing that is certain, bareshafts are really sensitive to a clean release and follow through - seemingly more so than fixed broadheads.


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## pjridge (Jul 22, 2003)

I had a 2011 ven xl that I had problems with a high right tear and bare shaft showed same results. I played with bottom cam orientation and a few twist in right yoke nd took care of th problem. It didn't tune with the cam marks the same. I keep the top cam mark in line with cable and the lower one was off the cable about 1/4 inch. I don't remember whether the bottom cam mark ended up on the riser side or the string side. It was nock travel like a single cam. It did not like stiff arrows or a whisker biscuit either. I have a vendetta dc now it pse has corrected the vertical nock travel with the new cam IMO. I'm useing the same setup as the XL but it tuned dead level.


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## Rick! (Aug 10, 2008)

Ok, spent about 4 hours on my rig over the last two days trying to get a decent bare shaft tune. I started out with my ATA about 1/8" long and bareshafts hitting the top left 4 ring with fletched shafts in the center spot.








After loosening the cable about 7 turns and getting the yoke to be visible in my sight picture, this is the best I got.








So, off to the vise and the press. ATA ended up at +3/16, draw weight was 55lb at 4 turns out. I took the string and cable off and measured them - string is about 1/4" short and cable is only 1/16" short. Noted the cable didn't have any serving to keep the yoke in formation and one e-clip is missing for the upper left cable mount/axle. Limbs are in the correct "X" pattern with 87, 89 on LL and LR and 86,83 on UL and UR, looking from behind the bow. So, I reassembled the string and cable and adjusted the ATA to 36" - it took 10 full turns on the cable to get it there. Now draw weight is 65-67lbs with the limb screws tight and 60lbs at 4 turns out. (Not so swell for spots) Adjusted the rest and D-loop per PSE manual and rechecked top cam lean. I left the yoke as the arrow tip just crosses the string a the d-loop. 
First shots showed high bare shaft with nock low,right. I screwed the d-loop up 4 turns and it brought the bareshafts back down to level with the fletched ones.








Finally, all I did was move the rest over 1 3/4 marks (QAD HDX) and it's all good. No magic yoke tuning (probably really lucky) but found out it is vitally important to be perfect in form and release to verify that the "nock right" is gone. I seemed to have one "good" bare shaft and the other two would be "bad" and then I would have two good bare shafts and one bad and finally got repeatable three shaft groups. The other thing I learned is that a poor flighted bareshaft will wap a nock off of an arrow even when it hits several inches away from the other one.
















I saw there was room for one more arrow in the X ring, but not where I put it.








I'm happy where it ended up, not really thrilled about the strings on this rig. I'd like to thank Nuts & Bolts, AT, Larry Wise and a couple of buds from my club's range. 
full picture story/


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## mikesmith66 (Aug 8, 2008)

I have pretty much given up on PSE's after the last couple days. I borrowed the Vendetta XL again also. I've pretty much figured out that it's me, and no matter what I do with my form, my grip, my anchor, my stance, I get a 2" tail right tear that just will not go away. It's a 2" tear with fletched and bare shafts. I've tried different arrows, yolk tuned to the point where I couldn't twist anymore, moved the rest any where you can imagine it and so forth. You name it, I've tried it. What convinced me they just aren't for me is when a buddy came over and picked up the Supra I was playing with, and popped a bullet hole thru paper at 15 feet. I gave up after seeing that. I don't see a reason to shoot a bow that I just can't get to work for me. I've never been this frustrated with tuning a bow.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

I've owned quite a few bows over the years and never had any trouble getting good arrow flight with any of them until I picked up a 2011 Supra a few months ago. The bow shoots great, but there was nothing I could do to get rid of a 4" low right tear. 

The low right tear from a Supra seems to be a very common problem. The low tear can sometimes be corrected by moving the string stop a little further away from the string. It doesn't take much, but you may have to experiment with it.

I finally solved the problem of the right tear by re-arranging the spacers on the cam. One way to check to see if this might help you is to watch the cam just as you are getting to full draw. If the bow wants to twist in your hand a little, then it may be time to move spacers from one side to the other. It doesn't take much. Just a few thousands will make a big difference. 

If my limited experience is a good indicator, for a right handed archer a right tear means to move the cam closer to the riser and a left tear means to move it away from the riser.

Most of the time a bow is assembled properly at the factory and spacer re-arrangement won't work. But if the bow has been dis-assembled and the spacers not put back on right, this may correct that.

Hope this helps,
Allen


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## jaydub (May 16, 2008)

I had the same problem with a dominator. I can get any bow to tune, so surely it wasnt my grip!:wink:

I bought a true shot coach and guess what? Bare shafts are hitting with fletched.......

Apparently i was really cranking on it, even though my hand position was textbook.

I hope to adapt my grip so as not to use this thing full time. I cant afford the ribbing my buddies will give me for using training wheels!


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## mikesmith66 (Aug 8, 2008)

aread - I did move the string stop away from the string, and got the low tear to go away. What did you do with the idler wheel spacers ? The one I'm messing seems to have a think one a thicker one on each side. I'll try and post a pic of it here in a bit. 

jaydub - I was actually looking at those friday at work. I meant to order one, but go to busy at work to follow up on it. I been messing with hoyts since the original cam 1/2 came out, and never had these many issues tuning. I like the way these new pse's feel, so maybe if I try one of those true shots MAYBE it will help me get a better tune and I'll know what to do with my grip on these bows.


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## mikesmith66 (Aug 8, 2008)

*Cam Spacers*

Here's what this bow has in the top idler wheel for spacer. If you look close, you'll see a thinner spacer right against the cam on both sides, then a thickers spacers outside of those spacers. For you guys that have moved them, how have you arranged them ?


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## loujo61 (Apr 29, 2005)

I have the same problem with my VXL it bare shafts 8" left at 20 yards. I've twisted the yolk till I hit my arm and moved the rest but it didn't change the BS much. I put the yolk so it leans just a touch in towards the cable guard, center shot a touch over 3/4" and it walk back tunes down the middle. Maybe the pre-stressed limbs have something to do with the BS tuning problems, I know the bow shoots fletched arrows lights out.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

I re-arranged the spacers to move the cam closer to the riser. If you are looking at it from the string side, I moved the cam to the right. It wasn't a big shift. I moved it only by shifting the thinnest spacer I had. I don't know the thickness, but it's just about the thickness of a piece of copier paper.

I didn't do anything to the spacers on the idler wheel. 

Hope this helps,
Allen


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## mikesmith66 (Aug 8, 2008)

:doh: silly me.........for some reason I thought you were referring to re-arranging the spacers on the top idler wheel. 

I was shooting it last nite a little, and for the first time since I started this thread, I got the tear to change by purposly applying torque to the riser. I'm shooting right handed, so what I was doing was taking the pointer finger on my left hand and just squeezing it onto the grip enough to barely twist the riser in a counter-clockwise direction........that is the stabilizer would point to the left. I could consistently get a bullet hole like that...when I applied the right amount of torque. 

I'm not quite sure what that is telling me, or what my next move should be.... But I'm going to call PSE about the limb order, then look into the cam spacers. 




aread said:


> I re-arranged the spacers to move the cam closer to the riser. If you are looking at it from the string side, I moved the cam to the right. It wasn't a big shift. I moved it only by shifting the thinnest spacer I had. I don't know the thickness, but it's just about the thickness of a piece of copier paper.
> 
> I didn't do anything to the spacers on the idler wheel.
> 
> ...


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

When you draw the bow and are hitting the full draw, does the bow want to twist one way or the other?

Mine reacted the opposite of what you described with the light finger torque. It wanted to twist counter clockwise (viewed from above) and I got good results by moving the cam to the right. You may need to move your cam to the left.

As with all tuning, if this way doesn't work, try that way. 

One thing that made me realize what the problem was is when I drew another bow. There was no twist or torque at all as I hit full draw. When I was looking for it, the difference was really noticable. The other bow just came back and hit a solid wall like it is supposed to.

Good luck & let us know what you work out,
Allen


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## mikesmith66 (Aug 8, 2008)

It feels like it wants to twist clockwise, if viewed from the top. When I push on it with my pointer finger after I anchor, I can make it twist counter-clockwise, just enough to notice the riser twist, and then I can shoot a bullet hole. Sounds like we were going the same direction, right ?

I know what you mean by drawing other bows. I picked up my CRX 35 last nite while messing with the Supra and noticed it doesn't do what the supra does. It hits the wall and doesn't twist either way for me at least. I have to really screw up my grip on the CRX to get it to rip a bad hole in the paper. And it has a roller guard. Go figure... Lol. 

I had a similar experience tuning a buddy's Apex 7 this past spring. Neither of us could get the right tear out, no matter how we held it. Arrow spine didn't change anything. AFter I chatted with Nut & Bolts, I elected to take his advice and we had a floating yolk buss cable built for the bow with 10" long legs. The tear went from 2" long to 1/2" long and we tuned the rest out with draw weight and slight DL adjustments. 

One thing for certain, it's a learning experience. I'm glad it's not my bow. It would of been in classifieds by now !



aread said:


> When you draw the bow and are hitting the full draw, does the bow want to twist one way or the other?
> 
> Mine reacted the opposite of what you described with the light finger torque. It wanted to twist counter clockwise (viewed from above) and I got good results by moving the cam to the right. You may need to move your cam to the left.
> 
> ...


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## BDZ65 (May 20, 2004)

Mike,

When you tell me purposely torquing the bow alleviates some of the nock right.

I say the following will help your situation:
- Move the working plane of the string further from the cable guard, play with spacers.
- Move the pressure point of the grip closer to the riser.
- Adjust the cable guard to create less offset of the cables.

Items #1 and #2 will create more CCW torque, while looking down onto the top limb. These torques are only applied while drawing the bow and while @ full draw.
Item #3 will create less cable guard induced CW torque in the first place.

I do not know why some bows are like this, you certainly should not have to purposely apply a grip induced torque to make the bow tune. I have also heard it before, "it is your grip you are the problem", but the next 10 bows from the same and other manufactures tune fine while using the same grip that does not work on the problem bow.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Based on the little experience I've had, you should re-arranged the spacers to move the cam to the left. It only takes a very small amount. 

The newer PSE's with low brace height seem to be very sensitive to this. IMHO, it's due to a poor limb pocket design. When I moved the shims from one side of the cam to the other, I could see a tiny difference in the side to side angle of the pocket. I can't measure it, but there seems to be a little there. These bows tune great when everything is set up & balanced and they shoot great even if it's a little off. But they are not what we are used to with the Hoyts.

Allen


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## BDZ65 (May 20, 2004)

My experience agrees with aread, shim the cam to the left. On wood grip bows reshaping the grip to move the pressure point to the right can help also. I have also heard re-arranging the limbs on these split limb bows can help.

Brian


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## mikesmith66 (Aug 8, 2008)

Thanks a lot guys. At least I know what direction to head next. May have an update on progress tomorrow evening. Thanks again for the help. I didn't expect to get this much help on the subject !


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## mikesmith66 (Aug 8, 2008)

Well I swapped the cam spacers around on the bow. It had a thicker one on the left side, and a thinner one on the right. I swapped them around, and it did nothing for my tear. About all it did was make the bottom lean more. 

I also contacted pse about the limb order. I broke the bow down, and the limbs werent in the order they told me it should be. So I re-arranged them. Still no changed in the bad right tear. 

I then messed with the cable rod. Still no changes. I'm holding a 2" tear, no matter I do.

About the only thing that will make it go away is me purposely twisting the bow CCW, so the stab points a little left, and the tear will go away. I really have no idea what else to do. I've altered my grip, my stance, my anchor, DL....you name it, I've tried. I'm basically chalking it up to the simple fact that these bows just don't work for me. 

I put it away last nite, and got out my CRX 35 I just took on a trade. I havent fired 1/8th the amount of arrows off it as opposed to the supra in the past 2 weeks. I fired 1 acc 3-28 thru paper, bare, and got a slight right tear. 1 twist in the yolk and it was gone. In fact, it went slight tail left, I took 1/2 twist out. I can grip the bow 3 or 4 different ways and still get a good tear. 

I'm just gonna mark this down as a learning experience for myself. I learned what works for me, and to leave it alone.


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## BDZ65 (May 20, 2004)

I am in a similar situation with my brothers Hoyt Trykon XL, however I have the right tear down to about 1/2". Last night I shimmed the cams even more to the left and I will see what I have tonight. With this bow I have the arrow rest extremely left of center to get where I am now. If I purposely torque the bow CCW I can get a left tear. I have an older low end PSE which I went through a similar battle with, in that case I re-shaped the wood grip. Funny thing is I cannot see where accuracy suffers, but broadhead vs. fieldpoint impact and bare shaft will definetly be an issue. I also have a Mach 7, Mach 11, Mojo, Moneymaker and now Hoyt Contender which all tune easily.


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## davdeer19 (Jan 8, 2011)

inreguard to the trykon xl i had one that did the same no matter i did. Try making the bottom cam hit just a little late ever so slightly. If that does not get it, introduce cam lean in top cam only play with a couple twists out and in from dead square. You can also try this on the pse's


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## BDZ65 (May 20, 2004)

davdeer,
Thanks for the cam sync tip, I will try that tonight!


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## archerdad (Oct 17, 2002)

Scott.Barrett said:


> I had a similar issue with one of my Supra's....Ended up taking the limbs off and contacting PSE as to where the limbs should be positioned. Unlike Hoyt, each limb can have a different deflection and they are marked with a dot if they are bottom limbs. Turned out that mine had the strongest on the inside and they needed to be on the outside. Changed that and it shot a bullet hole....
> 
> I've also heard of swapping very thin spacers around to eliminate the tear as well, but I have not had to do it.


that fixed my buddies bow.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

That is seriously frustrating. 

One last thing to check - is the riser bent?

If that isn't the case, I'm lost on what else to recommend.

Allen


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## mikesmith66 (Aug 8, 2008)

I wouldn't think its bent. I'm good friends with the guy who owns it. I've been around the bow since the day he got it. It has only seen eazy presses and bowmaster presses. I just can't get it to shoot straight for me. 





aread said:


> That is seriously frustrating.
> 
> One last thing to check - is the riser bent?
> 
> ...


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## FSL (May 22, 2002)

Just an idea but what rest are you using? Same one as on the Hoyt? You probably put your draw length in earlier but can you provide that again?


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## mikesmith66 (Aug 8, 2008)

I typically shoot my bows in the 27.5" slot, then do a twist/untwist here and there to get the DL work for me. I usually end up at a 27.7" true draw. I've had this bow on the 27", 27.5" and 28" slots just trying to see how it would affect my shot. No changes. 

I'm currently shooting a TT blade rest. Have tried both a .008 and .010 blades. And I've also tried a TT fall away. And a Bodoodle Pro Lite. Have had all 3 rests perform flawlessly on past bows. All 3 resulted in identical right tears on this Supra. 



FSL said:


> Just an idea but what rest are you using? Same one as on the Hoyt? You probably put your draw length in earlier but can you provide that again?


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## true shot coach (Aug 22, 2011)

jaydub said:


> I had the same problem with a dominator. I can get any bow to tune, so surely it wasnt my grip!:wink:
> 
> I bought a true shot coach and guess what? Bare shafts are hitting with fletched.......
> 
> ...


I am glad that the True Shot Coach helped you. Dont worry about your buddies giving you a hard time. The True Shot Coach is just another tool on you bow, just like a stabilizer,d loop ,release,etc, they all enhance our shooting ability. (Try shooting without a stabilizer and see what happens.) Maybe everyone does not need the true shot coach but not everyone needs the same tools on thier bow. Just remember your confidence in your shooting and your groups have improved. You will get the last laugh in the end. Good Luck Randy


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## mikesmith66 (Aug 8, 2008)

Just ordered 2 of your True Shot coaches. One for myself to try out, and one for my girlfriend who is just starting out. 



true shot coach said:


> I am glad that the True Shot Coach helped you. Dont worry about your buddies giving you a hard time. The True Shot Coach is just another tool on you bow, just like a stabilizer,d loop ,release,etc, they all enhance our shooting ability. (Try shooting without a stabilizer and see what happens.) Maybe everyone does not need the true shot coach but not everyone needs the same tools on thier bow. Just remember your confidence in your shooting and your groups have improved. You will get the last laugh in the end. Good Luck Randy


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## true shot coach (Aug 22, 2011)

Thanks alot mikesmith66 for the order. If you need anything please call me. Your order shipped today. good luck Randy


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## MikeHarmon42 (May 6, 2012)

Probably a stupid question, but have you checked your fletching clearance?

Sent from my phone.


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## true shot coach (Aug 22, 2011)

MikeHarmon42 said:


> Probably a stupid question, but have you checked your fletching clearance?
> 
> Sent from my phone.


Yes all my fingers are below the self on the riser on my bowtech. ON my mathews my fingers are a touch above the self but are far enough to the outside where there is no chance of a fletching contacting them. On top of my fingers is the elastic so there is nothing to get in the way of the fletching. great question please let me know if there is anything else. thanks Randy


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## Q2DEATH (May 12, 2003)

I realize this thread is over a month old but I just got my first ever PSE, a Supra ME. 

I usually like to shoot a bow at least 50 times before I tune it to settle in the strings. For this bow I put the cams in synch and St my rest, arrow, nocking point right with the marks on the riser. I shot it about 25 times and couldn't resist. I had to shoot it through paper. What I got was a hideous low left tear of about 1-1/2".

During initial inspection of this bow I noticed one side of the yoke had no twists and the other side was all twisted up. I put twists in left, untwisted side got the same tear. I was going to take twists out of the other side and when pressing noticed th yoke wanted to spin around itself when there was no tension on the cables. 

I tools the yoke off straightened it out which included swapping sides they were originally mounted on. At this time I also noticed the angled cable guard was mounted at the furthest position you could put it for vane clearance. I loosened the rod and spun it around to wherit cleared the cables by about an 1/8 to 1/4 " and slightly raised the mocking point.

Shot an arrow through paper and went from the huge left tear to a slight right tear. I'm shooting 27-1/2" easton axis 340's with 50 grain inserts and 100 grain points with 4 fletch vanetec v maxx 2.5 incurred. I grabbed a 300 spine beman with a 50 grain insert and 125 gr. Head and was about a 1/16" away from a bullet hole. Took the axis and threw in a 125 head and nailed a perfect bullet hole.

I post this here because I did a search on yoke tuning to see if I was doing it right and came up with this thread. I don't know if you messed with the cable guard at all but that makes a huge difference. Just thought I would share that. Forgive typos I'm on my phone.


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## Rick! (Aug 10, 2008)

Q2DEATH said:


> I realize this thread is over a month old but I just got my first ever PSE, a Supra ME.
> 
> I usually like to shoot a bow at least 50 times before I tune it to settle in the strings. For this bow I put the cams in synch and St my rest, arrow, nocking point right with the marks on the riser. I shot it about 25 times and couldn't resist. I had to shoot it through paper. What I got was a hideous low left tear of about 1-1/2".
> 
> ...


Is the base of your yoke served or not? After having one set of strings dialed in with the rest of the bow, I installed a new set of strings that have the base of the yoke served and no serving over the pulley and am having a heck of a time getting rid of a nock right on my bareshafts. My original set of strings had the string served over the pulley and the base of the yoke was free (no serving). Any other PSE shooters see this with different flavor aftermarket strings?


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## Q2DEATH (May 12, 2003)

Yea the yoke is served. You'll need that if you want to twist one side or the other.


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