# Lengthening carbon arrow



## normlefebvre (Aug 21, 2010)

I was wondering if it is possible to add a half inch piece of tube at the point to an all carbon arrow in order to get a better tune.

The arrows that I am using are just a tad stiff and I have the 120gr points and the bow weight adjust is max out. I'm hoping to have a slightly weaker arrow.

I remember this method was done back in the 80's with aluminum shaft in case the shaft was cut too short. 

I tried 3/8" pieces already and never had a point stayed in hard packed ten-test target at any distance. Even after it seem there still slightly stiff.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

any reason you can't get some 150 grn points or get some heavy inserts?


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## Huntmaster (Jan 30, 2003)

NO There is NO safe way to add to any arrow. Adjust to a heavier point or save for later when you're shooting more poundage. All else fails, a stiff arrow will group before a weak one, so just shoot them.


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## normlefebvre (Aug 21, 2010)

Thanks Huntmaster and Fury90flier. My arrows seems to group well anyway. So you're probably right, i should just shoot those arrows and work on my form more than trying to get the perfect tune.

There's probably a little advantage to shooting slightly stiff arrows than slightly weak arrows. As for getting 150 grn or heavy inserts, would that be available for carbon one shaft? where?


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## Stash (Jun 1, 2002)

Huntmaster said:


> NO There is NO safe way to add to any arrow.


I don't see why not. I used to do it all the time - cut 1/2" segments of ACEs and aluminums, slip them over the point before gluing it in. Looked pretty sharp on aluminums,too, if you used different colors of shaft for the extensions. 

Never had an issue. Safe enough as long as there's plenty of point shank left to glue.

But I doubt if it will do a whole lot to weaken an arrow. 1/2" isn't going to affect tune all that much on a recurve, none at all on a compound/release.


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## Scott.Barrett (Oct 26, 2008)

Stash said:


> But I doubt if it will do a whole lot to weaken an arrow. 1/2" isn't going to affect tune all that much on a recurve, none at all on a compound/release.



I've seen a 1/2" make all the difference in the world! Even a 1/4" will make a change....anything that moves the node will cause a difference....

I still wouldn't want to lengthen an arrow...I've done it, but never felt comfortable with the outcome....


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## hwjchan (Oct 24, 2011)

Did it for a couple of Nano XRs that I mushroomed the first 1/2" on. Works fine. Left them both as bareshafts and they group just fine with fletched shafts and normal bareshafts.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

There are other ways to deal with the issue as well:

Where is your BH?
Plunger tension?
String strands and material?

If they are just slightly stiff then you can make them work somehow.

-Grant


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## FS560 (May 22, 2002)

Of course it can be done and it works quite well as those of us who have done it can attest. The controlling factor is the length of point shank tube left to glue into the main arrow shaft after installing the spacer. It would be important to be sure that the points fit the shaft just right so that the bond will hold and you do not leave all of the points in the bale.

I have only done it with aluminum shafts which always had longer shank tubes than carbon arrow seem to have now. I installed some 1.5 inch spacers on some 1914 shafts using klicka-points which had a really long shank tube, but regularily installed 1/2 and 3/4 inch spacers with regular easton chisel points and they stayed glued in. However, I did use the old ferrule tite hot melt which was really strong and high temp.

Remember that, as you extend the length of the tube inside the shaft to lengthen the shaft, the length of shaft available to flex may be no longer or even shorter than you current arrow length and point combination. The result is that the arrows will still shoot stiff or maybe stiffer.


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

"Thrifty" folks of days gone by used to lengthen aluminum arrows all the time by adding short pieces of shaft to the points before gluing them in. Do I recommend it? Nope. But if it's your only option, and the point shaft is long enough? I don't think it's a deal breaker. Too many folks have done this for too many years to declare it some sort of ticking time bomb.

Just make sure that if you do this, and you shoot into hard bales, there is a good chance you may lose a point.

John


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

norm 

John and stash are correct. I have a few dozen arrows (mostly aluminum, but there's a carbon or two in the mix) that were lengthen by up to 1/2". The thing to be careful of is the shank length of the head. Most NIBBs and break-off type heads are long enough. (After a while I realized the benefit of having all arrows set to the same clicker length, and, oh yeah, I'm cheap...)

There's no safety issue if done on the business end, and the biggest concern is having enough adhesion surface. 

Are there better ways of tuning, of course. And I don't use this as a tuning parameter, but sometimes ya just need a little more length...

BTW - that's why I NEVER discard the cut-offs when I cut shafts. 

Viper1 out.


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