# Home Made Walk-in fridge (deer fridge)



## Maxtor

Got started on my project of a walk-in fridge today and I'll be taking pics along the way and showing them as it progresses and then what it looks like when it's completed.

It will be 4'x4'x6', fully insulated and covered with vapor barrier. It will be cooled with a 10,000 btu air conditioner which will be controlled by a CoolBot, which should be arriving this week. 

Here are the pics from today as it is in it's beginning stages.. I'll update this post as I get more done and take more pics.

"Anyone looking to build one of these and use a CoolBot, you can use this link to get $10 off of your CoolBot purchase. Up until now, I've never received anything from CoolBot for starting this thread. But by others using this link, it does help give me a little "pay it forward"......

$10 off link: http://storeitcold.referralrock.com/l/71941C8B/"


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## Jason Jurgenson

Great start I've been building the same thing only a little bigger at 6.5' by 7.5' by 8', got to make sure the air conditioner will get cool enough most will only cool to 50 degrees or so.


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## Newhunter1

ttt


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## Maxtor

Jason Jurgenson said:


> Great start I've been building the same thing only a little bigger at 6.5' by 7.5' by 8', got to make sure the air conditioner will get cool enough most will only cool to 50 degrees or so.


With the CoolBot installed I'll be able to keep my fridge at a steady 37 degrees without any problem. Mine will also be totally portable. All the sides and roof will be lag bolted together. Need to move it, no problem, just remove the lag bolts and take it with you to hunting camp with a generator


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## Jason Jurgenson

That's pretty sweet never heard of the coolbot before, should work great!


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## Maxtor

Today I managed to get all the walls, the roof and the door insulated and completed. I have to be honest, I'm pretty thrilled how this is all coming together because working with wood is definitely not one of my strong points. Usually I can measure things 10 times and still screw it up........lol

Start of insulation - I'm using an R14 insulation.









Insulating Walls









A/C Wall









Roof with deer hanging hooks









All walls, door and roof completed!!


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## ILOVE3D

*Home Made*

What is the "coolbot" and can anyone install it or do I have to have my ac unit converted by an ac techincian? Thanks


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## Maxtor

ILOVE3D said:


> What is the "coolbot" and can anyone install it or do I have to have my ac unit converted by an ac techincian? Thanks


 Absolutely anyone can install it and there are no conversions to do to your AC unit at all. What the click > CoolBot does is, it allows your ac unit to run at lower temps then it normally would be able too.


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## Swift Arrow

Just a friendly suggestion!!!
From past experience cote the inner walls with a cheap pickup bed liner, blood soaks into the wood and insulation making for a hell of a smell when the ac goes off, it also make clean up easier and is another layer of insulation, we eventually started doing the outsides to. It keeps them perfected better from the elements.


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## cold1984

great idea!


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## huntfish25

ttt


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## Maxtor

Swift Arrow said:


> Just a friendly suggestion!!!
> From past experience cote the inner walls with a cheap pickup bed liner, blood soaks into the wood and insulation making for a hell of a smell when the ac goes off, it also make clean up easier and is another layer of insulation, we eventually started doing the outsides to. It keeps them perfected better from the elements.


Actually, walls will be coated with Varathane for that exact reason . Definitely makes for easier cleanup.


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## Maxtor

Today everything got 3 coats of Varathane. Tomorrow I have to install an outlet in my garage for the AC unit and then hopefully I will be lag bolting everything together.


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## q2_hunter

Just a suggestion on the coolbot deal, if you want to save 1/3 the cost look for freezer controllers much like these.. I think the first one is rated at 12 amps and the second one is rated at 15 amps but dont remember but depending on what size window ac your gonna run will fatcor in... http://www.amazon.com/RANCO-ETC-111000-Digital-Temperature-Control/dp/B0015NV5BE/ref=pd_sbs_misc_2
http://www.williamsbrewing.com/CONTROLLER_II_P183C100.cfm


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## Maxtor

Now, are you saying to use one of those INSTEAD of the CoolBot or run one of these with the CoolBot to help control temps?


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## lakertaker40

http://www.storeitcold.com/

found this on line sounds like he's on to great things.


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## Back Country

Hey Maxtor,
I thought I would give you a heads up, on the coolbot, I was reading there "How to make a cooler section" and they say not to use fiberglass insulation, I noticed that is what you where using. I am planning on making one of these next year, and love the coolbot idea. Good Luck.


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## q2_hunter

Maxtor said:


> Now, are you saying to use one of those INSTEAD of the CoolBot or run one of these with the CoolBot to help control temps?


Yes, use this instead of the coolbot.. Just hardwire the thermostat wire bypassing the thermostat and than plug the window ac into this controller and plug your controller in and set what perimeters and temp you want and turn the window ac to stay on all the time.. This controller will give power to the window unit when it needs to cool down, and shuts power going to the window unit when its at temp.. These freezer controllers are pretty much the same as the coolbot and just as easy to hook up if not easier..


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## Maxtor

Back Country said:


> Hey Maxtor,
> I thought I would give you a heads up, on the coolbot, I was reading there "How to make a cooler section" and they say not to use fiberglass insulation, I noticed that is what you where using. I am planning on making one of these next year, and love the coolbot idea. Good Luck.



Yes, you're right, they do say that on their site. But they are referring too HUGE fridges and ones that are being kept outdoors and run through the warmer months. Mine is much smaller, being kept in a garage and only being run in the fall. A friend of mine has a fridge basically like mine (not run by a coolbot but a much more expensive unit) and his is done the exact same way as mine as far as insulation and bigger. We've been using his fridge for about 8 years now and it's amazing how good it works and there are absolutely no signs of any moisture getting in like they describe. Again, they refer to units being run outside. My fridge will be the 4th one now between myself and people I know and they all run perfectly and have no issues. The only issue I've seen is one of the guys used the wrong brand AC unit the first two times and he burned them both out.....lol
That rigid foam insulation costs a fortune in my area. The coolbot site says to use 4" of insulation, which would cost around $100 per wall here. That's a bit too pricey for me when I already know the fiberglass insulation works perfectly for what I want.


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## mmwtdh

q2_hunter said:


> Yes, use this instead of the coolbot.. Just hardwire the thermostat wire bypassing the thermostat and than plug the window ac into this controller and plug your controller in and set what perimeters and temp you want and turn the window ac to stay on all the time.. This controller will give power to the window unit when it needs to cool down, and shuts power going to the window unit when its at temp.. These freezer controllers are pretty much the same as the coolbot and just as easy to hook up if not easier..


Wonder how this one would handle freeze up problems. From studying the Coolbot it seems to have a frost sensor to go into a defrost (off) mode.

I'm not a Coolbot plant, as a matter of fact, I just heard of it here in this post. I do sell walk in coolers and this thing seems like a hell of a good idea.........


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## Maxtor

mmwtdh said:


> Wonder how this one would handle freeze up problems. From studying the Coolbot it seems to have a frost sensor to go into a defrost (off) mode.
> 
> I'm not a Coolbot plant, as a matter of fact, I just heard of it here in this post. I do sell walk in coolers and this thing seems like a hell of a good idea.........


 I know the coolbot has the ability to "override" the ac unit and allow it to run colder than it normally could without doing harm to the ac. Wonder if the two systems that q2 hunter posted have the same ability? I just know that a couple friends here run these coolbots and they love them. To me, the extra $ was well worth the reassurance.


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## q2_hunter

I would think running a fan across the window ac would help with freeze up, besides you would want a fan running inside keeping air movement going.. Im in the process of building a walk in cooler my self, I actually got big cooler panels and just cutting them down to size.. Once I finish getting the cooler built I will be ordering the controller I posted link to and will find out for myself...


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## Bran8484

This looks awesome 

Just a thought you could use FRP board (the stuff on the walls in restaurant kitchens sold at lowes or home depot) on the inside its food safe I think


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## q2_hunter

I believe the coolbot is tricking the window ac thermostat with a probe that shows warmer than what the temp is.. My idea is you dont have to do that using the controller I posted about and just bypassing the thermostat on the ac unit..


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## mmwtdh

q2_hunter said:


> I believe the coolbot is tricking the window ac thermostat with a probe that shows warmer than what the temp is.. My idea is you dont have to do that using the controller I posted about and just bypassing the thermostat on the ac unit..


I agree with that.

I think it just adds a frost sensor to override asking for cold when frost has built up.


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## SCBOWHUNTER903

cool idea


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## gmark

I've been giving thought to building a DIY cooler. As always, cost factor is an issue. But, I am thinking of using spray foam in walls. There's a few sources online to get the kits. Or, using the 4x8 sheets of rigid foam with reflective coating. The reflective coating...or a layer of reflective mylar...will greatly help the cooling and energy costs. (cuts utility bill in house between 40-60 percent) How? take a piece of aluminum foil out in the sun and place it on ground. Hold one hand over aluminum foil, one hand over grass (or whatever) You'll see real quick. Info available on web if you search. Keep as much heat out your cooler will be more efficient. 

I was thinking about using the tileboard from Home Depot or Lowe's on the interior for ease and cleaning. I figure a DIY cooler will run anywhere between $400-$700 depending on pieces/parts and size. How much do you have in to your project?


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## Maxtor

The $400 - $700 range is about right gmark. I'm probably going to be in the $550 range. Luckily used ac's are easy to come by because having to buy a new one would have really increased the cost. A new 10,000 btu in this area would set you back about $500. 
This is another thing that changes how things have to be done different, between you guys in the U.S. and here in Canada, especially where I live. I go to your Home Depot site and can find that TileBoard no problem. Go to the Canadian Home Depot site, can't find it. Go to the Home Depot store here and they've never heard of it. The things I have available to me are much more limited then what's available in the U.S. and to have it shipped here makes the price of the project climb dramatically.

Here's a perfect example. The two links that q2 hunter provided me. The thermostat from Amazon.com isn't available on Amazon.ca and to have it shipped from Amazon.com (which I believe they won't ship here anyway) would almost double the price. The other link from Williams brewing, again, they don't ship to Canada.


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## rickson

I have an old chest freezer I have an external thermastat. 

I got it for free of off craigslist, added the thermostat for like $40 from a beer brewing website.

I do have to quarter them out and then put the quarters in a little rack I made....perfection!


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## Kevin85

I can't wait to see how this turns out!


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## mi11z

Hey, Thier is a guy i hunt with that's father n law made a deer cooler out of Inslated pannels, Like the kind people use for underpinning, He uses a old pepsi mechine cooling system to keep his cold, siad he gave 40$ for the machine from pepsi. I was going to try to build 1 out of inslated doors, you can get them from the same place you buy the pannles, they have scratch and dent, for 3-5$ a door, and use the same cooling system he did. Just thought i would give you guys a few more ideas..... He lets his deer hang for 3 days, even during bow season. That would be great.


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## inline6power

give me just a sec and i will take pictures of my walk in box. i own a construction and refrigeration buisness and build industrial cold storages. love the buisness and making things cold almost as much as i do killing things lol.


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## inline6power

sorry, everything is a little dirty as work has been crazy busy. its a 20x8 walk in box that goes down to Zero degrees if i need to freez something. i have a couple more in other places but this one does the job for all the stuff i kill here in california. mostly hogs and small blacktail. works like a charm. made out of 8 inch insulated metal panels that we use for building cold storage facilitys.


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## gmark

Inline6power, how much of that is a DIY. Looks pre-fabbed. If it is DIY, how much $$$? Looks awesome, but expensive.


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## inline6power

gmark said:


> Inline6power, how much of that is a DIY. Looks pre-fabbed. If it is DIY, how much $$$? Looks awesome, but expensive.


everything is DIY. like i said i own a construstion and refrigeration buisness so all the materail i need is readily availvable for me. total cost for materaial would probably be in the 10k-15k area. i will dig out pictures of me actually building the entire thing. i will also post more pictures of detail. it was actually pretty easy to make, took 3 weekends of solid 10 hour days to complete.


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## Gunner7800

inline6power said:


> everything is DIY. like i said i own a construstion and refrigeration buisness so all the materail i need is readily availvable for me. total cost for materaial would probably be in the 10k-15k area. i will dig out pictures of me actually building the entire thing. i will also post more pictures of detail. it was actually pretty easy to make, took 3 weekends of solid 10 hour days to complete.


What would the cooling system for that cost? 

Kinda like the idea of a Pepsi machine that was mentioned earlier. If you were to quarter an animal I would think you could hang quarters pretty easily inside one of those.


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## d3coy_duck

Great ideas here guys. Bookmarked for future reference.


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## q2_hunter

Heres mine in progress.. Started with '20 cooler panels 3" thick and cut them down and making a cooler about 8x8x8.. Hopefully to finish this coming weekend..


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## Maxtor

Unfortunately I wasn't able to continue with mine today because I had another job I needed to tackle (redoing all the water lines in my travel trailer) and that isn't going too well. Apparently I've got a couple leaks I need to look into now. Hopefully within the next few days I'll get that done and be able to get back to my cooler. My CoolBot arrived today though 

@inline6power, since you said in your post that you


inline6power said:


> own a construction and refrigeration business and build industrial cold storages


 that hardly counts as DIY........lol But it sure is a very nice fridge indeed.


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## inline6power

Maxtor said:


> Unfortunately I wasn't able to continue with mine today because I had another job I needed to tackle (redoing all the water lines in my travel trailer) and that isn't going too well. Apparently I've got a couple leaks I need to look into now. Hopefully within the next few days I'll get that done and be able to get back to my cooler. My CoolBot arrived today though
> 
> @inline6power, since you said in your post that you  that hardly counts as DIY........lol But it sure is a very nice fridge indeed.


True but built it my self not the guys working for me lol


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## gmark

q2_hunter said:


> Heres mine in progress.. Started with '20 cooler panels 3" thick and cut them down and making a cooler about 8x8x8.. Hopefully to finish this coming weekend..


What was your source for the cooler panels? That's exactly what I'm looking for with having to make them myself. (spray foam and reflective mylar).


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## q2_hunter

gmark said:


> What was your source for the cooler panels? That's exactly what I'm looking for with having to make them myself. (spray foam and reflective mylar).


A business was remodeling there huge coolers and the panels I got were ones that were dented or beat up but I had got 12 panles and they were 20 foot long so I was able to cut nothing but good pieces and still have panels left over.. cost FREE.. This week I just got a cooler door as well from the business...


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## SGT Drummond

Q2 your cooler is in no way a DIY project. You in fact have a commercial freezer, you just cut it down to size. you panels were made commercially, by a vendor!!! you just bolted it together. Inline6.. you run a commercial business that uses commercial parts bought from a vendor and just bolted together. Not a DIY project, you in fact have a commercial freezer. On this DIY page we like to build things not made by a manufacturer.and save a little money doing this.. In no way is 10-15,000 dollars saving money. If you guys buy a bike for your kids and have to put it together, would you call this a DIY project? I believe you would. MAXTOR... you have built a true DIY project. Congrats


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## gmark

SGT Drummond,
I think you went off on Q2 with no basis. Personally, I think the fact that Q2 was resourceful enough to find a source that made the DIY walk in cooler easier to build....KUDOS! Wish we all that that luck. As far as inline6's cooler.....not sure if that is a true DIY.

Q2_hunter,
If there are any scraps or additional supplies, or even a contact at the company (for possible future "scratch 'n dent" panels) please PM me with info. It may be well worth a couple hundred in shipping costs to get some of those panels. Thanks.


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## q2_hunter

SGT Drummond said:


> Q2 your cooler is in no way a DIY project. You in fact have a commercial freezer, you just cut it down to size. you panels were made commercially, by a vendor!!! you just bolted it together. Inline6.. you run a commercial business that uses commercial parts bought from a vendor and just bolted together. Not a DIY project, you in fact have a commercial freezer. On this DIY page we like to build things not made by a manufacturer.and save a little money doing this.. In no way is 10-15,000 dollars saving money. If you guys buy a bike for your kids and have to put it together, would you call this a DIY project? I believe you would. MAXTOR... you have built a true DIY project. Congrats


Very understandable.. I will say this though, I could of easily built one like the OP in the same amount of time that I have invested in this one.. So far I have about 6-7 hours wrapped up in it and probaly have another 2 or 3 hours left.. Granite the panels are pre fabbed I still have to modify them to make them work for my application.. Much like the panels I got were 3 inch thick tounge and groove panels, the door I just got for it is a 5 inch cam lock panel and 5.5 inches wider than all the over panels, so modify it all to make it work is just as much time consuming as building one from scratch exactly how you want it..


Gmark, I will see what I can do. About what size cooler are you looking to build LxWxH ?


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## q2_hunter

Also SGT, theres only one hand saw I know of that will cut those panels all the way through which is called a bigfoot and none of my local rental places doesnt carry... A standard saw will only cut 2 3/4 depth therefore you have to flip the panel and cut again on other side and its very time consuming to make sure your perfectly lined up with the first cut on the other side.. Could use a sawzall or jig saw but not gonna get a good straight cut.. But regardless I really dont care of your thought as I know its been a long project for me..


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## gmark

I'm thinking the same size as others mentioned in thread....6x8 or 8x8. Larger units mean more $$$ for cooling equipment. I don't think I'd have more than 4 deer hanging at a time anyway. Unless I charge friends to hang in my cooler. Which might help offset cost. Hmmmm.......... :set1_thinking:

Thanks Q2!


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## gungho

I built a walk in cooler about 6 years ago now it is 5x7 wood construction lined with puck board and I use a window shaker to cool it I built a controler for it to cycle the compressor on and off to prevent frost build up and to shut down the whole system when at temp it will hold the room at 31-32 deg when it is 100deg out side the best thing i ever built for hunting if any body needs help on how to wire this up let me know might be cheaper than the cool-bot 
Gung


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## q2_hunter

I may getting rid of this one Im building next spring for about what Im in it... I wont know for sure till sometime this winter, and I have a buddy that drives down to your state once or twice a year also.. Maybe make something happen..


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## gmark

I have a 16' trailer and no problem travelling. Heck, I drove 3 1/2 hrs each way last year almost every weekend to the deer lease. It would be worth burning a weekend on a road trip to get materials for a nice cooler. Just let me know. Thanks.


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## q2_hunter

Gmark, I just PMed you a cooler I found for ya thats sorta close to ya for cheap..


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## jersey bob

Would installing a fan in any of the home made units make them run more efficietnly under 50 degrees?


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## q2_hunter

I dont think just the fan is gonna cool it down, still gonna need a a/c unit, but your gonna want a fan running inside circulating the air if you have meat hanging..


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## IrishnId

Excellent thread guys! I've been trying to get the gumption to start on one of these projects, but didn't know where to start. This is what I needed.


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## inline6power

SGT Drummond said:


> Q2 your cooler is in no way a DIY project. You in fact have a commercial freezer, you just cut it down to size. you panels were made commercially, by a vendor!!! you just bolted it together. Inline6.. you run a commercial business that uses commercial parts bought from a vendor and just bolted together. Not a DIY project, you in fact have a commercial freezer. On this DIY page we like to build things not made by a manufacturer.and save a little money doing this.. In no way is 10-15,000 dollars saving money. If you guys buy a bike for your kids and have to put it together, would you call this a DIY project? I believe you would. MAXTOR... you have built a true DIY project. Congrats


This is a ******ed. Statement. Thats like saying yours is not a diy project because the plywood was made by a manufacturer. in built my cooler and in no way can you go out and buy what in made. Your comment was pointless


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## gungho

this is the best thing I have built for hunting now I dont worry about meat going bad built a rail with rollers and a quad winch from cost co for 49$ to lift my animals up to the rail learned the hard way that I needed this it takes alot to lift a fullgrown buffalow up to the rail I run the winch off of an old car battery and a solar panel from a old electric fencer


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## gungho

to every body that is interested I will post some pictures and a wiring diagram as soon as I can 
Gung


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## gmark

Gungho, post whatever you think may help or give the rest of us ideas. New thoughts are always welcome.


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## gungho




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## gmark

That's a nice DIY cooler, Gungho! :thumbs_up


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## McDawg

Gungho that is one nice looking cooler do you have plans and a material list?


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## Maxtor

okay, now that I am done replacing the water lines in my travel trailer and had a nice weekend away, I'm ready to get back to this fridge. Some time this week I will have updated pics because I only have a week left until deer season starts so I have to get it finished!!


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## GusGus30125

SGT Drummond said:


> Q2 your cooler is in no way a DIY project. You in fact have a commercial freezer, you just cut it down to size. you panels were made commercially, by a vendor!!! you just bolted it together. Inline6.. you run a commercial business that uses commercial parts bought from a vendor and just bolted together. Not a DIY project, you in fact have a commercial freezer. On this DIY page we like to build things not made by a manufacturer.and save a little money doing this.. In no way is 10-15,000 dollars saving money. If you guys buy a bike for your kids and have to put it together, would you call this a DIY project? I believe you would. MAXTOR... you have built a true DIY project. Congrats


Sometimes I wonder.


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## petrey10

great topic guys... TTT for more ideas


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## joessmokin

Need some help.
I have been wanting to build a walk in cool and with the help here I think I will be able to do it. I have found some 3 1/2" thick pannels that are 4' X 12' and thinking of building a 12' long 8' wide 12' tall walk in cooler. If I am right it will be 96 sq ft. My question is how big of an a/c with a controller on it would I need to keep this in the low 30 degree range? I live in TN and temps change quickly around here but would not expect to use in in over 85 degrees out side. Any input would be great.
Thanks,
Joe


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## petrey10

why do you need it 12' tall? I would say 8' would be plenty and save you some on the cooling aspect.


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## gmark

petrey10 said:


> why do you need it 12' tall? I would say 8' would be plenty and save you some on the cooling aspect.


Looking at the dimensions of the panels, I think joessmokin is trying to work with the size of panels without having to cut them. This would result in the size he mentioned. But, you are right petrey10. If he kept the inside volume smaller he'd have a more efficient unit.

joessmokin,
Look back through this thread. Using a freezer control to regulate the A/C was discussed.


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## q2_hunter

joessmokin said:


> Need some help.
> I have been wanting to build a walk in cool and with the help here I think I will be able to do it. I have found some 3 1/2" thick pannels that are 4' X 12' and thinking of building a 12' long 8' wide 12' tall walk in cooler. If I am right it will be 96 sq ft. My question is how big of an a/c with a controller on it would I need to keep this in the low 30 degree range? I live in TN and temps change quickly around here but would not expect to use in in over 85 degrees out side. Any input would be great.
> Thanks,
> Joe


like already stated why go '12 high, rather than doing 8W x 12L x 8H... One that size you will need a 15k-18k btu unit which would be reaching max amps for the controller we have posted about..


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## SGT Drummond

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...e02413d&itemid=180563920002&ff4=263602_263622 here you go or this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...e02413d&itemid=180562949528&ff4=263602_263622 

Frezer panels are all over the place. they are a bolt together kit.


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## PArcheryhunter

Very nice.


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## inline6power

nice cooler in the link, like the idea of cooler and freezer in one unit. again, mine is a DIY since i cut, constructed, wired, and welded the frame work it sets on. only thing i didnt do was make the coils and panels. panels were 20ft that were extras on a job that i cut down to my liking but i designed and constructed it myself. this is not a store made unit so i kind of take it the wrong way when you say mine is not a DIY project. it 100% is weather i am in the buisness of construction, refrigeration, ect. anyone can get these panels and the refrigeration componets. its up to you to designe it, construct it the way you want, power it, and operate it.


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## Maxtor

Well, didn't have as much time to put into it tonight as I would have liked but I am making progress.

Here's where I'm at now:

Here's the back wall for the A/C Unit:









Now I got one wall attached:









Second wall added and starting to take shape:


















That's it for now but like I said, I'm making progress. With any luck, tomorrow I can get a lot more done and update this as well. 

Thanks for looking everyone and also for adding all the other great ideas that are being put in this thread!!


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## daywalker

Interested in building one of these myself so I'll def keep an eye on this thread. Some good ideas floating around guys.:thumbs_up


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## joessmokin

G2 Hunter thanks for letting me know what size A/C unit I would need.
As stated pannels are 4' X 12' and they have latches and hooks from what I have been told (I have not seen them yet) and I am wanting it 12' high for a couple reason. 1. I want to keep my deer off the floor. 2. If I start buying my own cows I can then hang a side or two of beef in there. 3. I don't care to cut the pannels if I do not have to. Some people in this thread are dropping BIG DOLLARS on a freezer / cooler unit wich is fine if you got it but for me cheap and fuctional is great. If I do this I am looking to keep the budget under $1,000 which it looks like I can do.
Thanks for all the sugestions.
Joe


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## Gunner7800

joessmokin said:


> G2 Hunter thanks for letting me know what size A/C unit I would need.
> As stated pannels are 4' X 12' and they have latches and hooks from what I have been told (I have not seen them yet) and I am wanting it 12' high for a couple reason. 1. I want to keep my deer off the floor. 2. If I start buying my own cows I can then hang a side or two of beef in there. 3. I don't care to cut the pannels if I do not have to. Some people in this thread are dropping BIG DOLLARS on a freezer / cooler unit wich is fine if you got it but for me cheap and fuctional is great. If I do this I am looking to keep the budget under $1,000 which it looks like I can do.
> Thanks for all the sugestions.
> Joe


Maybe you could put in a removable false ceiling to cut down on the volume of space that needs to be cooled. Then remove the ceiling if you need to.


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## clap

gungho said:


> View attachment 905267
> View attachment 905268
> View attachment 905269
> View attachment 905270


Nice Gunho. Do you have the coolbot thing? Or did you rig the a/c unit another way. Please give us some info on your ste up.


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## Maxtor

Got a lot more done tonight and it's getting close to completion and ready to hang a deer in!! 

Roof Attached










Door in Place










Even have a little helper










A/C Unit Put In










CoolBot Installed










Silicone and Varathane Drying










Should be able to wrap it up tomorrow and get it all done and give it a test run. Best thing about this one is, it's all lag bolted together, so I can easily take it apart if need be and move it or use it in a hunting camp with a generator


----------



## McDawg

Looks good let us know how the test run goes.


----------



## Gunner7800

Maxtor said:


> Got a lot more done tonight and it's getting close to completion and ready to hang a deer in!!
> 
> Silicone and Varathane Drying
> 
> Should be able to wrap it up tomorrow and get it all done and give it a test run. Best thing about this one is, it's all lag bolted together, so I can easily take it apart if need be and move it or use it in a hunting camp with a generator


What are you using to seal the wall connections? Or is that where you used the silicone?


----------



## Gunner7800

q2_hunter said:


> Just a suggestion on the coolbot deal, if you want to save 1/3 the cost look for freezer controllers much like these.. I think the first one is rated at 12 amps and the second one is rated at 15 amps but dont remember but depending on what size window ac your gonna run will fatcor in... http://www.amazon.com/RANCO-ETC-111000-Digital-Temperature-Control/dp/B0015NV5BE/ref=pd_sbs_misc_2
> http://www.williamsbrewing.com/CONTROLLER_II_P183C100.cfm


Tossing around the idea of using one of these. From what I've seen there is no sort of frost sensor. Has anybody used them for applications such as a walk-in fridge? Has there been problems of frost build up?


----------



## petrey10

how bout lighting? You are going to want good lighting but I see that is not in your plans...


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## petrey10

maxtor we need an update! haha looks great so far....


----------



## Maxtor

petrey10 said:


> how bout lighting? You are going to want good lighting but I see that is not in your plans...


Actually, I have lighting in my plans, just not sure what option I'm going to go with yet


----------



## Maxtor

Just some minor things to tweak here and there but she's fired up and running good.

All put together










CoolBot Ready To Do It's Job!










30 Minutes Later










I still have to install some sort of lighting and like I said, tweak here and there but I'm happy with it.........:RockOn:


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## hillbillywilly

Looks great thanks for the update and pics


----------



## huckle

awesome project. I see a cooler in my future :darkbeer:


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## petrey10

Maxtor what was your final cost?

What are the interior dimensions? Will you be cutting up a deer in there? 

Can you hose it down for cleaning I would think that might hurt the coolbot or ac unit


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## Maxtor

petrey10 said:


> Maxtor what was your final cost?
> 
> What are the interior dimensions? Will you be cutting up a deer in there?
> 
> Can you hose it down for cleaning I would think that might hurt the coolbot or ac unit


 My final cost I would say is around $500. Inside dimensions are 6'x4'x4' so no, the deer will be butchered in a different area but still done by ourselves. 

As far as hosing it down, the fridge we used to hang our deer in at our friends place never had to be hosed down that far up the walls. But, since the walls have a few coats of varathane, they will be easy to clean up.


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## joessmokin

Looks great and that cost is very affordable. Was just wondering do you have much leakage around the door?


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## Kevin85

So if the Coolbot was $300, the rest was only around $200? That is a very affordable solution for hanging deer. Nice job!!

A friend of mine and I made a "Coolbot" of sorts that works pretty effectively for now. I am not sure completely how he did the electrical work, but he has the fan running on the AC all the time and the compressor runs for 25 minutes at a time(he built a box with some timer switches in it?). Then the compressor shuts off for 5 minutes to thaw any frost that may accumulate on the coils. We can get my cooler down to a solid 40 degrees with this method. We do notice that the times have to be adjusted depending on the outside temp and humidity, but the cooler works well enough when we need it to. I have an old walk in cooler(6x6x8) that has seen better days. If I was to disassemble it at this point, there would not be any putting it back together.


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## oneida

gungho, could you post the wiring diagram? I'm very interested in building one myself.


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## Maxtor

Found a nice little lighting package for $20 and very easy to hook up, so I finally have lighting in the fridge now.











@joessmokin > Yes, at first I had a small amount of leakage at the door and that was the only area where any leakage was found, I was actually both surprised and impressed. I'll be taking care of the leakage around the door with an "inner frame" on the inside of the door and some weather stripping. Will post pics once that is completed. 

I also haven't decided yet, but I'm thinking about either painting the concrete floor inside the fridge or just maybe a coat of Varathane. Thought it might make it look a bit nicer and also make it easier for cleanup.


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## 1trackmind

Go buy a kid pool one of those cheep pools at wally world and put it under your deer. All you have to do is drag it out side and hose out as needed.


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## carybcom

Excellent thread and build respectively. Happy hunting.


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## Maxtor

Once I get everything just right, I want to let it run for one full day/night because I was told that the first few hours don't give you accurate temps because the cement floor is still cooling to where you want it. Once it's been running a bit, it should stay at the temps I want with very little effort.


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## KZaker

I think I would just use an old chest freezer unit and a few small fans. As long as it is pretty tight and well insulared you would be alright. My bud built a shed from the old walls of a supermarket freezer that was being demoed and he could heat it in the winter with a coleman lantern and the light bulbs that were installed. the trick is in the insulation -


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## Maxtor

KZaker said:


> I think I would just use an old chest freezer unit and a few small fans. As long as it is pretty tight and well insulared you would be alright. My bud built a shed from the old walls of a supermarket freezer that was being demoed and he could heat it in the winter with a coleman lantern and the light bulbs that were installed. the trick is in the insulation -


 I didn't say this was the way to go, I was just building this for my own use and posted it here because it's a DIY forum and I thought it might give others some ideas. Thought it was cool to post pics from start to finish and share the experience with others. I know I really enjoy threads like this in here!!


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## catdaddy

Good job Maxtor, I say its the way to go because it was D I Y, those projects are always the best. Job well done!


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## joessmokin

catdaddy said:


> Good job Maxtor, I say its the way to go because it was D I Y, those projects are always the best. Job well done!


I agree


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## gungho

to all who want wiring diagrams for cooler I have been working crazy hours this week and will try to get some thing on paper this weekend 
Gung


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## Gunner7800

gungho said:


> to all who want wiring diagrams for cooler I have been working crazy hours this week and will try to get some thing on paper this weekend
> Gung


If you could pm me the diagram I would appreciate it.


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## hillbillywilly

gungho said:


> to all who want wiring diagrams for cooler I have been working crazy hours this week and will try to get some thing on paper this weekend
> Gung


Cool and Thanks in advance


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## inline6power

granted i can see where mine is not at DIY compared to others as i have alot more cost as so on in my project. i do have to say very nice job maxtor. i really like that setup. cheap, fast, and it works. very nice.


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## dragon7507

inline6power said:


> granted i can see where mine is not at DIY compared to others as i have alot more cost as so on in my project. i do have to say very nice job maxtor. i really like that setup. cheap, fast, and it works. very nice.


I still think yours is a DIY. Its a DIY on steroids, that could hold a hunting party worth of meat :shade: 

I may have to look into doing something like this as its a great idea. Thanks everyone for posting these pics and getting the creative juices flowing


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## Maxtor

inline6power said:


> granted i can see where mine is not at DIY compared to others as i have alot more cost as so on in my project. i do have to say very nice job maxtor. i really like that setup. cheap, fast, and it works. very nice.


 Thanks for the comments inline. See, the problem is, I don't own my home, I rent. So I had to make mine to where I could tear it down and set it back up with little difficulty "just in case"  Plus, like I said, if I go on a hunting trip someday, I can always take it and a generator with me


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## buckeyboy

I was thinking about putting an AC in the window of my cinderblock shed and insulating it,, and hooking up the coldbot do you guys think this would work??
This way I dont have to build anything


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## Maxtor

buckeyboy said:


> I was thinking about putting an AC in the window of my cinderblock shed and insulating it,, and hooking up the coldbot do you guys think this would work??
> This way I dont have to build anything


 I don't see why it wouldn't work. The main part would be insulating it good and then getting the right size AC for the size of the shed.


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## daywalker

Anyone one know if an 8000 BTU window unit will handle a 5'x6' cooler like the one Maxtor built or will it be too small?


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## Maxtor

daywalker said:


> Anyone one know if an 8000 BTU window unit will handle a 5'x6' cooler like the one Maxtor built or will it be too small?


 I know a 6'x8' they don't recommend anything lower than a 10,000 BTU so I'm not sure about yours. I think I could have gone with an 8000 btu and been fine but I would rather not take the chance. You can always install it, test run it for a full day and see what kind of temps it sits at. If it doesn't keep up, then you know you need to go to a 10,000 BTU. Use a digital temp sensor that will show you the minimum and maximum temps you hit through the test run, that way you'll know the highest temps it allows your cooler to get too.


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## dlsutton

use a 4 inch foam insulation very dense foam with a vapor barrier such as foil jacketed foam foam is the best insulator from heat think about it a foam cup is 1/8 of an inch thick hold it in your hand and fill it up with coffee you will not get burned to keep heat out use foam and foam does not absorb moisture or humidity like fiberglass or cellulose and to cool any environment you also have to dry it and it is not just air that holds moisture just a thought


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## Maxtor

Sure foam is the best insulator but it's also double the price, at least here. If I would have went with foam insulation, it would have increased the cost of my fridge at least another $200, if not more. And contrary to what some say about using the fiberglass in one of these fridges, as I mentioned in an earlier post, a friend of mine has a fridge just like mine only a bit bigger. We've been using his fridge close to 10 years now and every few years he dismantles the walls just to investigate the "moisture/mold" theory and there has been absolutely no sign of any yet. Now I'm not saying that what you say isn't true, I'm just pointing out that although it may be better to go with the foam, it isn't absolutely necessary. Think if I was to do it all over again, I would seriously consider having someone come in and fill the walls with that spray in foam insulation. It can be done relatively cheap here. Not able to buy kits here to do that yourself, at least not to my knowledge

If it takes 20 years for the mold to start showing up, I'm fine with that because in 20 years I might not need the fridge any longer anyway, but that $200 or more that I saved sure came in handy now


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## daywalker

Maxtor said:


> I know a 6'x8' they don't recommend anything lower than a 10,000 BTU so I'm not sure about yours. I think I could have gone with an 8000 btu and been fine but I would rather not take the chance. You can always install it, test run it for a full day and see what kind of temps it sits at. If it doesn't keep up, then you know you need to go to a 10,000 BTU. Use a digital temp sensor that will show you the minimum and maximum temps you hit through the test run, that way you'll know the highest temps it allows your cooler to get too.


Thanks. I'll probably go with a 10,000 BTU just to be on the safe side. I was curious because used 8,000 BTU units seem to be a dime a dozen around me.


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## dlsutton

maxtor im sorry but i was replying to daywalker about his project yours is top notch , i know a guy whom owns a sporting goods store and also a deer cooler his cooler is constructed of blocks and he made the mistake of listening to a brick mason for his insulation for blocks and he was told to put sand in his block walls and that actually only gave an R value of about .4 another thing i would like to add to anyone whom is thinking of a diy fridge it will make the operating of your machine less expensive if while you are not using or storing deer in your fridge and going to run it anyway store your beer or sodas or something if only 20 gallons of water the thing wont run as much as if you run the thing empty


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## Maxtor

dlsutton said:


> maxtor im sorry but i was replying to daywalker about his project


 Sorry about that dl, my misunderstanding. Wouldn't this make an awesome beer fridge while not using it for deer.......lol Man, you could store one heck of a lot of beer (or anything else) in that thing, especially if you put in a small shelving unit


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## TC-CountryBoy

Maxtor,
Your DYI cooler looks good. How is the CoolBot doing? I been thinking about doing something very similar in the back corner of the garage. I have been looking at CoolBots the last couple of years, but just haven't taken the jump to buy one. It sure would be a lot easier than trying to stuff deer quarters in the fridge. You mentioned shelves, but instead, those chrome wire carts with rollers work great. My wifes uncle has one of the short carts and he uses it to roll the deer into the cooler then picks up the deer to hang. If you have room, you can leave it in there and put your tubs of boned out meat on until it can either be wrapped or ground. Save a lot on the back. Easy to clean too, just roll it out and hose it off.
TC
http://www.shelving-direct.com/family/chrome_wire_shelving_carts_with_wire_shelves/40201.htm


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## Maxtor

This CoolBot actually works great. I'm sure there are other ways I could have done it but wiring isn't one of my strong points so I feel a lot safer going with the CoolBot. Am I glad I bought the CoolBot? Absolutely!!


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## q2_hunter

gungho said:


> to all who want wiring diagrams for cooler I have been working crazy hours this week and will try to get some thing on paper this weekend
> Gung


Got the johnson controller and the Omron timer.. Just need some wiring diagrams now..


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## FearNot

I gotta build one of these!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Gunner7800

gungho said:


> to all who want wiring diagrams for cooler I have been working crazy hours this week and will try to get some thing on paper this weekend
> Gung


Anything on that diagram yet?

And pictures if you could...:wink:


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## eolson8798

Maxtor, looks awesome! It would look even better if it had a few deer inside...


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## FearNot

Well I did it! I said last week that I gotta build one of these! I got $520 in building materials and a Coolbot without the a/c. I "borrowed" one from the house. It works awesome. The first run it went from 73 to 43 degrees in 15 minutes! I picked up a stall mat at TSC for over my 2" foam board floor insulation. The rubber mat is 3/4" thick at $35. I added a $10 wireless thermometer to make sure things are on q without opening the door. I showed it to a few hunting buds and they started on their cooler already. Our butcher shop has been "Pimped" with our new cooler!


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## petrey10

that looks awesome!... what did you use on the inside... dimensions? size of ac unit?


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## Maxtor

Good job FearNot, that thing turned out really good!! Still waiting to hang a deer in mine


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## FearNot

4' x 7' x 7' with 8000 btu a/c. We skin ours asap to cool um off quick. We like to let um hang. That is why I built the cooler.


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## q2_hunter

I had enough time in my busy schedule to work on my cooler all day today.. All the walls and ceiling is up.. Did the electrical for the interior light and switch, outlet inside, and the a/c unit with the Johnson controller.. Got the part of the meat hanging support partially done.. I did a quick test run with it and fired the a/c up and in about 15-20 minutes had it to 37* degrees. Just need to lay in the floor and finish welding up the meat hangin supports and she'll be all done and will take some pics..


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## 1trackmind

q2_hunter said:


> I had enough time in my busy schedule to work on my cooler all day today.. All the walls and ceiling is up.. Did the electrical for the interior light and switch, outlet inside, and the a/c unit with the Johnson controller.. Got the part of the meat hanging support partially done.. I did a quick test run with it and fired the a/c up and in about 15-20 minutes had it to 37* degrees. Just need to lay in the floor and finish welding up the meat hangin supports and she'll be all done and will take some pics..


How does the Johnson Controller work ? What all do you need to hooh it up?


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## q2_hunter

The controller works great, just plug the controller in and then plug the a/c unit into the controller... I yanked out the thermostat and just hard wired it..


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## noljohn

*deer cooler*

q2 hunter did you ever get a wiring diagram. Have you run it long enough to see if it is going to freeze up. If you did get a diagram could you pass it on? Thanks in advance for any help.


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## Jason Jurgenson

I am wondering the same q2 hunter, I've got the room done just need to get the ac unit and a coolbot or johnson controller, hoping the johnson controller helps with freeze up as well since it is a lot cheaper


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## q2_hunter

No I never got the wiring diagram from the one member here so I went about doing it the way I was originally going to do it.. No freeze ups and got it as cold as 32 degrees but in reality hanging temp you want it at 37*... Pretty simple to do.. But I must say your gonna need to find an older a/c unit (craigslist) one that doesnt have a digital control box but rather one that has the knobs that you turn to select your settings.. To start you want to go to the controller that selects how cold ( cold-coldest) that will be where your thermostat is on the ac unit.. It will have two wires going into that controller, take the wires off the controller and tap them in together and either take the controller out or leave it but at this point you wont be using it anymore.. Once you have tap the wires together plug the ac unit into the johnson controller (if you got one that has plugs on it already, if not you will have to install plugs) (heres one with plugs already installed http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0KP4V2H7H47AF8F8GF1X ) than plug the johnson controller in and than follow instructions came came with the controller to select your tempeture and differentials. Really easy and as long as you get a a/c unit thats big enough for your walk in cooler than you shoudlnt have to worry about freeze ups.. My cooler is about 7x8x8 and I got a 10k btu ac which is working alright but a 12k or even a 15k would of been best.. But the size of boxes most Ive seen posted on this thread 8k or 10k btu is plenty big enough...


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## q2_hunter

BTW- I will get pics posted up later this week.. I got her 99% complete yesterday and just need to do some cosmetic touches.. With the insulated floor in now and ambiant temp yesterday at low 70's it took 13 minutes to cool down to 37* degrees and once it got to temp it held a 5* degree differential for about 10-15 minutes before kicking back on..


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## q2_hunter

Also you can do a newer ac unit that has the digital control box but it will require a little more wiring, essentially you will have to wire directly into the ac pump and fan to make it work..


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## petrey10

sweet!!!


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## mulehoyt

I am also in the process of building my own walk in cooler...Just got started...found some roofing panels that are 4X8 chip board with 3" of ridgid foam insulation glued to the chip board...got it for next to nothing at a local lumber yard.....regualr over 60 bucks pre sheet, I paid 5.99 per sheet, they were happy to get rid of it.......still working on the construction plans for it, but I got a decent start with these panels.....good luck


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## q2_hunter

heres some pics..


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## petrey10

holy cow.... dude you gotta give us some specs on the dimensions.... materials... size of unit... did you use coolbot or something else...


----------



## q2_hunter

roughly 8x8x8 in size and the panels are 3 inch thick tounge and groove walk in cooler panels. The door is 4 inch thick (from a camlock style cooler) Wire in light with switch and a inside power outlet. Window ac is 10k btu unit controlled by a johnson controller..


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## Maxtor

damn, I start this thread and you guys post all your fridges that make mine look like crap..........lol JK

Nice fridge q2


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## Finley46044

I use an electronic temp controller wired to the compressor and condesor fan only. I have the blower motor hard wired to constantley run. That way when unit is down to temp the air moving across the coil will thaw it out. Just like a commercial walk in cooler.


----------



## Gunner7800

Finley46044 said:


> I use an electronic temp controller wired to the compressor and condesor fan only. I have the blower motor hard wired to constantley run. That way when unit is down to temp the air moving across the coil will thaw it out. Just like a commercial walk in cooler.


So if you have a deer hanging for say 3 days, your fan is going to run that entire time? How did you do the wiring on this? I've never worked on / re-wired an ac unit.



Maxtor said:


> damn, I start this thread and you guys post all your fridges that make mine look like crap..........lol JK
> 
> Nice fridge q2


That's alright, when I make one it's still going to be like yours. Unless I can find some cooler panels for cheap


----------



## q2_hunter

Finley46044 said:


> I use an electronic temp controller wired to the compressor and condesor fan only. I have the blower motor hard wired to constantley run. That way when unit is down to temp the air moving across the coil will thaw it out. Just like a commercial walk in cooler.


I thought about wiring exactly that way.. For now I will leave it how it is but next summer Im gonna put a bigger ac unit in and when I do Im wiring up that way.. The only thing I will do differantantly is put the fan on a switch..


----------



## Maxtor

Gunner7800 said:


> So if you have a deer hanging for say 3 days, your fan is going to run that entire time?



The fan runs all the time on mine as well. You want that air moving in the cooler to help process the meat.


----------



## Gunner7800

Maxtor said:


> The fan runs all the time on mine as well. You want that air moving in the cooler to help process the meat.


:thumbs_up


----------



## Finley46044

Maxtor said:


> The fan runs all the time on mine as well. You want that air moving in the cooler to help process the meat.


Yes and it thaws out the evap coil on the a/c to o. When cooler is not in use I shut power down to unit.


----------



## Maxtor

Finley46044 said:


> Yes and it thaws out the evap coil on the a/c to o. When cooler is not in use I shut power down to unit.


 Well why would you run it anyway if there's nothing in it??


----------



## FearNot

Nice coolers guys! Maxtor gave us the chiller bug!


----------



## JDoupe

Maxtor, 

How many cases of beer do you think you could put in that cooler....you know, if the hunting was slow?


----------



## Maxtor

JDoupe said:


> Maxtor,
> 
> How many cases of beer do you think you could put in that cooler....you know, if the hunting was slow?


 I bet I could put enough in there to invite down some friends from other parts


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## q2_hunter

well my set up is pretty much complete.. Picked up a '6 stainless prep table and meat lug rack, differant packaging supplies and misc stuff...


----------



## 1trackmind

Now that looks like you are about to start work. With that set up you can't be doing it for fun anymore. lol
That is a nice set-up some day I will grow up and get set up ike that. It does look good.


----------



## q2_hunter

Well I need a few more stamps and some meat lugs that fit the cart and a masking tape machine and I will be done.. I didnt have my sausage stuffer in the pic and my next project will be to build a huge smoke house for doing sausages and stuff..


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## FearNot

Nice setup Q2


----------



## tazman7

Wow thats an awesome setup Q2- 

But im looking for something along the lines of what Maxtor is doing. If only I had a three car garage...dang it!





What is the smallest you think you could go on a cooler to hang maybe two deer at a time??


----------



## Maxtor

mine is 6'x4'x4' and I think 3 deer will be a snug fit. Two deer, I don't know if I would want to go much smaller than maybe 3'x3'.


----------



## Buckskins

G2 your set up looks great. I have just finished building an 8'x9'x9' cooler and was debating whether it would be big enough to have a couple of skinned deer hanging and still be able to cut one up. Have you used your cooler yet for cutting one up? I was able to buy a cheap 17'x32' cooler without the cooling unit and was considering using the extra panels to make a cutting room but if yours works I may not need it. Also I was wondering are those meat hooks 1/4" or larger as I was looking at some on Ebay and was curious what size would work best. Thanks Buckskins


----------



## 138104

q2_hunter said:


> well my set up is pretty much complete.. Picked up a '6 stainless prep table and meat lug rack, differant packaging supplies and misc stuff...


Wow, now that is ready for some serious processing. That is nicer than what my butcher uses!


----------



## RColeman

Maxtor said:


> The $400 - $700 range is about right gmark. I'm probably going to be in the $550 range. Luckily used ac's are easy to come by because having to buy a new one would have really increased the cost. A new 10,000 btu in this area would set you back about $500.
> This is another thing that changes how things have to be done different, between you guys in the U.S. and here in Canada, especially where I live. I go to your Home Depot site and can find that TileBoard no problem. Go to the Canadian Home Depot site, can't find it. Go to the Home Depot store here and they've never heard of it. The things I have available to me are much more limited then what's available in the U.S. and to have it shipped here makes the price of the project climb dramatically.
> 
> Here's a perfect example. The two links that q2 hunter provided me. The thermostat from Amazon.com isn't available on Amazon.ca and to have it shipped from Amazon.com (which I believe they won't ship here anyway) would almost double the price. The other link from Williams brewing, again, they don't ship to Canada.


My wife is from CA and her family still lives there, what they do is order online and ship to us, then we turn around and ship it to them. Not sure if you know somebody willing to do it for you but at least a thought.


----------



## q2_hunter

Buckskins said:


> G2 your set up looks great. I have just finished building an 8'x9'x9' cooler and was debating whether it would be big enough to have a couple of skinned deer hanging and still be able to cut one up. Have you used your cooler yet for cutting one up? I was able to buy a cheap 17'x32' cooler without the cooling unit and was considering using the extra panels to make a cutting room but if yours works I may not need it. Also I was wondering are those meat hooks 1/4" or larger as I was looking at some on Ebay and was curious what size would work best. Thanks Buckskins


Havnt had a chance to use yet.. For deer I dont think it will be a problem, if your working at the cutting table the deer will be hanging right behind ya but there should be room.. Im mainly a elk hunter but do to the height I will have to cut them in half or quarters to be able to hang since its only 8 foot high.. If you have the room I think a 8x12 would be an ideal size but hell 8x8 is a workable size as well.. 

I think my SS meat hooks are 3/8 diameter but they could be 1/4.. But there plenty strong, I tested with my body weight 170# and they didnt even think of bending at all but I was hanging from them with one in each hand..


----------



## q2_hunter

Well I decided to make a new stand for my grinder.. I took my meat lug cart and cut it about in half, mounted one half under the stainless table for storing meat lugs and the other half I mounted new casters on it, bent and welded 1/8 aluminum panel for the top. Welded some aluminum tubing under the top so I can slide a meat lug holder under the head of the grinder while grinding meat..


----------



## PigFeathersBBQ

I'm going to try this again. It gave me a spam warning the first time.

G2 - very nice unit. Will look better with an elk hanging in it. What temp are you able to maintain in that cooler?

Maxtor - thanks for starting this thread. I stumbled upon it when I was looking for info on the cool bot. Your unit is similar to what I am going to be building for my restaurant except that I will use insulation board and painting the interior with epoxy paint. I will be using it primarily for produce at first until I am certain I can maintain 37 degrees. Have you figured out how low you are able to maintain a temp?


----------



## sawtoothscream

looks awsome. i wouldnt mind building one of them. i only need one i can hang 2 deer in for up to a week. been getting warmer during archery season latly and i get worried about the meat and have a real hard time finding time to butcher the deer with school and work. being able to skin it and throw it into a cooler would be awsome. price doesnt seem bad. looks like a fun project for me and my dad


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## PigFeathersBBQ

gungho said:


> View attachment 905267
> View attachment 905268
> View attachment 905269
> View attachment 905270


That is a good looking cooler Gungho. It's especially sweet in that it has flesh hanging in it. Never heard the term window shaker - how appropriate. 

I think I am going to go the Coolbot route but mainly because I really don't have the time or patience to tinker with ACs and my AC 5 year warranty will still apply. Good to see though that the temperature goal can actually be obtained. I have read several blogs where people were saying that it was physically near impossible to get an AC to do this. Of course none of them have actually tried, it was all theorhetical.


----------



## double o

I wish i never saw this thread.:angry: Now i need to build one.:teeth::tongue:


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## Arobie120

double o said:


> I wish i never saw this thread.:angry: Now i need to build one.:teeth::tongue:


Going to try to build one this summer my self. Heard about using saw dust dust for insulation.


----------



## Doubledroptine4

save the money from the cool bot all you need is a thermastat from a frig and put it on the air cond and your good to go


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## 1trackmind

can you explaine a little more.


Doubledroptine4 said:


> save the money from the cool bot all you need is a thermastat from a frig and put it on the air cond and your good to go


----------



## Gunner7800

1trackmind said:


> can you explaine a little more.


+ 1


----------



## q2_hunter

PigFeathersBBQ said:


> That is a good looking cooler Gungho. It's especially sweet in that it has flesh hanging in it. Never heard the term window shaker - how appropriate.
> 
> I think I am going to go the Coolbot route but mainly because I really don't have the time or patience to tinker with ACs and my AC 5 year warranty will still apply. Good to see though that the temperature goal can actually be obtained. I have read several blogs where people were saying that it was physically near impossible to get an AC to do this. Of course none of them have actually tried, it was all theorhetical.


People say it can't be done cause window a/c are design to cool 20* below the ambient temperature.. But Like myself and others have done is just yank out the thermostat and hardwired it and than ran it to a thermostat controller like the johnson controller linked previosly.. I had no problem maintaining temps in the 30's no problem...


----------



## Doubledroptine4

all you need to do is install a thermastat from a frig and your o your way you can get them for nothing from any appl store just ask for on e from a frig that wasnt working it is very seldom its the thermastat install in air con and your good to go had mine running for over 3 years


----------



## Gunner7800

Doubledroptine4 said:


> all you need to do is install a thermastat from a frig and your o your way you can get them for nothing from any appl store just ask for on e from a frig that wasnt working it is very seldom its the thermastat install in air con and your good to go had mine running for over 3 years


I guess my thing is that I'm not very familiar with window ac units. I don't know the hook-up aspect. What happens with the frost sensor?


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## joessmokin

I would like to hear from all of you that built one to see how it did with deer in it. I was unable to build my due to a house fire and now that I have got the house back together I have some spare time and supplies to start building mine. Also thought this would be a good thread to bring back up since the seasons if closing in on us again.


----------



## joaxe

joessmokin said:


> I would like to hear from all of you that built one to see how it did with deer in it. I was unable to build my due to a house fire and now that I have got the house back together I have some spare time and supplies to start building mine. Also thought this would be a good thread to bring back up since the seasons if closing in on us again.


I'd like to hear the same thing! I just never got around to building mine last year. I need to get started now!

joessmokin - sorry to hear about the fire. Hope everything works out for the best!

Joe


----------



## joessmokin

Well I am getting 4 yards of cement coming to day to pour my pad (10X30). I aready have my drain in. This will be my first time playing with cement and I chose to do it with the heat index going to be around 107 this is going to be fun.


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## joessmokin

Well got the pad pourd and for my first one it's ok rough and wavy but it will work. I am going to pour 1 foot footers tonight so I will have a total height of 9 feet. I realy wish some people that built theres last year would tell us how the did with deer in them.


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## joaxe

Hey, can anyone report (or show pics) of how their coolers worked with deer in them? I've got a bunch of websites and info and am ready to start my project.

Thanks!

Joe


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## Elky_Man

Awesome


----------



## Kevin85

I am dieing to hear about and see pics from all the coolers built last year. My cooler is an old, professional cooler that is falling apart and becoming an eyesore. It has a modified air conditioner that keeps it cool just fine, but I may need to build something sooner than later to replace this one.


----------



## Fresno Dan

inline6power said:


> sorry, everything is a little dirty as work has been crazy busy. its a 20x8 walk in box that goes down to Zero degrees if i need to freez something. i have a couple more in other places but this one does the job for all the stuff i kill here in california. mostly hogs and small blacktail. works like a charm. made out of 8 inch insulated metal panels that we use for building cold storage facilitys.


Inline? I live in Fresno as well, what is the chance of getting scraps of these panels to say make a cooler that would be like 4x4x6? Just enough to house like 1 deer? I was working on a job a couple years ago that we build a Hamburger making Facility, and I will tell you that they threw 100's of scrap pieces away, that I wish I knew then what I do now. I could have built 10 of these or more.


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## 1trackmind

Why do you leave the A/C cover off? In every picture the cover is off. 
I just built a cooler and put a new A/C in and was wondering if i need to remove the cover.
Thanks,


----------



## bb11

Swift Arrow said:


> Just a friendly suggestion!!!
> From past experience cote the inner walls with a cheap pickup bed liner, blood soaks into the wood and insulation making for a hell of a smell when the ac goes off, it also make clean up easier and is another layer of insulation, we eventually started doing the outsides to. It keeps them perfected better from the elements.[/QUOTe
> 
> how about shingles?


----------



## 1trackmind

1trackmind said:


> Why do you leave the A/C cover off? In every picture the cover is off.
> I just built a cooler and put a new A/C in and was wondering if i need to remove the cover.
> Thanks,


Anyone?


----------



## Fresno Dan

1track... I really dont see the reasoning for taking the cover off, maybe he just did not put it back on after he installed it and secured it to the wall. I used to work in HVAC, and as far as I know, these type units do not cool any different with the cover off than they do with the cover on. So I would say that you could leave it on or take it off, up to you. Myself, I would leave it on for looks and protection from getting blood in the guts of the AC unit.


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## 1trackmind

Not DIY but I'm proud.


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## 1trackmind

Some more pictures


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## joaxe

Looks great, 1track...! How's the CoolBot working for you?

Joe


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## 1trackmind

works great and it was easy to install.


joaxe said:


> Looks great, 1track...! How's the CoolBot working for you?
> 
> Joe


----------



## q2_hunter

1trackmind said:


> Anyone?


No reasoning, when I yanked out the thermostat and stuff I just decided to leave the cover off.. 

Others that asked how it worked, well it worked great. After the season was over this winter I got rid of my cooler because I needed the space in my garage this winter and also I wanted to go a little bigger with a cooler and actually get a proffessional cooler, although I used actual cooler panels on my I still pieced it together..

After building and using my the only change I would make is this.. I took a window a/c, and yanked out the thermostat and hardwired the thermostat wires together, than plugged the unit into a johnson controller which was the brains of running the cooler.. The one change I would make is disconnect the wiring for the fan on the a/c and wire it into a light switch, but keep the a/c compressor hooked up to the johnson controller. That way the johnson controller will kick on and off the compressor like it needs to to control the temp but the fan being hooked up to a switch I can keep it constantly running.. When I do my next cooler that will be the one change I'll make learning from my last one.. If anyone has questions feel free to ask..


----------



## crazygary

When I build one, it will have a drain in the floor for easy cleanup. LOOKS GREAT GUYS.


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## 1trackmind

I think the drain will be like a big air leak. Just my two cents


crazygary said:


> When I build one, it will have a drain in the floor for easy cleanup. LOOKS GREAT GUYS.


----------



## 1trackmind

Has anyone tryed there unit in the summer yet? These 100 degree temprtures are killing me. I can't get my slab to coo off. I can get my cooer in the high 30s and my A/C will blow 29 degrees but it cycles up to 42 degrees before it kicks bck on. Just to much space to cool and hold.


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## joessmokin

I am glad to see this thread alive again. I am almost done with mine and will have photos of is soon. I started with digging a drain ditch that ended with a 2x6x6 hole about 30' away filled with gravel for gray water only and have the drain centered in the building using 2" pvc. I then poured a cement pad and then came back and put one foot footer in ( I should have done it the other way around but learning still). Since I was able to aquire some wood I went with 2x8x8 for my walls and 2x12 for my rafters. 3/4" plywood for a ceiling, inside walls and roof. I used 7/16 OSB and then covered it with cement board for the out side layer. I have R30 in the walls with plus 3 insulation foam board along with a vapper barrier and stuffed the ceiling with all the insulation I saved from my house fire so it is stuffed from the ceiling to the roof. I installed a breaker box to suport a 25k BTU AC with a Johnson A419 thermostate gauge, 4 outlets, lights inside and out. I just got done instaling laminet flooring on my walls so I can spray the walls down. I have to still work on sealing my door up better, install my 800lb winch and still looking for a pice of 2" I beam that I can bend to make a U to hang the deer from; I alread have the roller system. The building is 8'X12'X9' and I will have photos up soon.


----------



## crazygary

1trackmind said:


> I think the drain will be like a big air leak. Just my two cents


like thats hard to fix...when you aren't cleaning the frige you cover it up......


----------



## q2_hunter

1trackmind said:


> Has anyone tryed there unit in the summer yet? These 100 degree temprtures are killing me. I can't get my slab to coo off. I can get my cooer in the high 30s and my A/C will blow 29 degrees but it cycles up to 42 degrees before it kicks bck on. Just to much space to cool and hold.


The high 30's is where you need to be actually 37-38 degrees is ideal. If your reaching 42 degrees change your differential to 2 degrees.. But even than if its hitting 42 degrees it will just age the meat quicker..


----------



## q2_hunter

joessmokin said:


> I am glad to see this thread alive again. I am almost done with mine and will have photos of is soon. I started with digging a drain ditch that ended with a 2x6x6 hole about 30' away filled with gravel for gray water only and have the drain centered in the building using 2" pvc. I then poured a cement pad and then came back and put one foot footer in ( I should have done it the other way around but learning still). Since I was able to aquire some wood I went with 2x8x8 for my walls and 2x12 for my rafters. 3/4" plywood for a ceiling, inside walls and roof. I used 7/16 OSB and then covered it with cement board for the out side layer. I have R30 in the walls with plus 3 insulation foam board along with a vapper barrier and stuffed the ceiling with all the insulation I saved from my house fire so it is stuffed from the ceiling to the roof. I installed a breaker box to suport a 25k BTU AC with a Johnson A419 thermostate gauge, 4 outlets, lights inside and out. I just got done instaling laminet flooring on my walls so I can spray the walls down. I have to still work on sealing my door up better, install my 800lb winch and still looking for a pice of 2" I beam that I can bend to make a U to hang the deer from; I alread have the roller system. The building is 8'X12'X9' and I will have photos up soon.


How big is this cooler gonna be, with the amount of insulation your talking you probaly wont need such a big a/c unit.. Btw- if your using a 25k btu ac Im assuming its gonna be a 220v system which means your gonna need a differant controller, the Johnson A419ABC to be exact..


----------



## foreskinrestora

Very understandable.. I will say this though, I could of easily built one like the OP in the same amount of time that I have invested in this one.. So far I have about 6-7 hours wrapped up in it and probaly have another 2 or 3 hours left.. Granite the panels are pre fabbed I still have to modify them to make them work for my application.. Much like the panels I got were 3 inch thick tounge and groove panels, the door I just got for it is a 5 inch cam lock panel and 5.5 inches wider than all the over panels, so modify it all to make it work is just as much time consuming as building one from scratch exactly how you want it..


Gmark, I will see what I can do. About what size cooler are you looking to build LxWxH ?


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## joessmokin

G2 the building is 8X12X9, yes the AC is a 220v system and I thought I had a Johnson A419 but after looking in my garage I found I have a Ranco ECT 111000 that is a 120 or 220 system. With that said I am have issues hooking it up to my AC. Do I need to by pass eveything inside the AC unit any help would be great. Here are some photos of my cooler.


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## q2_hunter

just yank out your thermostat and wire the in and out wire for the thermostat directly together..


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## joessmokin

I had unplugged it from the power board but it did not by past it. I am wondering if there is an internal thermostat also?


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## Gunner7800

q2_hunter said:


> No reasoning, when I yanked out the thermostat and stuff I just decided to leave the cover off..
> 
> Others that asked how it worked, well it worked great. After the season was over this winter I got rid of my cooler because I needed the space in my garage this winter and also I wanted to go a little bigger with a cooler and actually get a proffessional cooler, although I used actual cooler panels on my I still pieced it together..
> 
> After building and using my the only change I would make is this.. I took a window a/c, and yanked out the thermostat and hardwired the thermostat wires together, than plugged the unit into a johnson controller which was the brains of running the cooler.. The one change I would make is disconnect the wiring for the fan on the a/c and wire it into a light switch, but keep the a/c compressor hooked up to the johnson controller. That way the johnson controller will kick on and off the compressor like it needs to to control the temp but the fan being hooked up to a switch I can keep it constantly running.. When I do my next cooler that will be the one change I'll make learning from my last one.. If anyone has questions feel free to ask..


I would like to see how you wire that when you are done.


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## q2_hunter

Gunner7800 said:


> I would like to see how you wire that when you are done.


When I go to do my next cooler I will take pics or tell how I did it..


----------



## q2_hunter

joessmokin said:


> I had unplugged it from the power board but it did not by past it. I am wondering if there is an internal thermostat also?


I don't remember where it was on my a/c but I believe it was on the switch that controlled the temp, thats where I bypassed the switch and hardwired it together. Now keep in mind when I shop for a a/c unit for my last cooler I looked on CL for an older one that had the turn knobs, not the newer ones with the digital displays. I have no clue on how to deal with the newer styles nor do I want to find out..


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## joessmokin

Great my ac is a new one that has all that digital crap. Oh well when I get some time I will firure it out. But in the mean time if any one can chime in on how to wire a 220 ac into a ranco ECT 111000 I could use the help. The diagram that comes with the unit is not very helpfull.


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## q2_hunter

Page 4 on this link http://www.etcsupply.com/manuals/ranco_etc_instructions.pdf

Than refer to figure five for your wiring diagram..
240v on lower right is your power input and the load on the left side would be your a/c unit you wish to control
If you still don't quite understand message me..


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## joessmokin

G2 thanks for the help. 
That is what we did with the main power cord going into the ac unit and it did not by pass it. I am not that good a wiring but I believe that I have to go straight to the compresser and fan but not sure. Got out of work late tonight I will hopfully get a chance to work on it tomorrow.


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## labs4life

I have an 8x9 with 8 foot ceilings that I have turned into a cooler. I had two 6k btu air conditioners that I put in there. I am not sure one of them is cooling adequately. 
My question is, if they were both cooling well, would that be enough for the cooler. Right now we can only get it to 55 degrees. I am not sure they would be enough. We had them so we thought we would give it a shot.


----------



## q2_hunter

labs4life said:


> I have an 8x9 with 8 foot ceilings that I have turned into a cooler. I had two 6k btu air conditioners that I put in there. I am not sure one of them is cooling adequately.
> My question is, if they were both cooling well, would that be enough for the cooler. Right now we can only get it to 55 degrees. I am not sure they would be enough. We had them so we thought we would give it a shot.


I would surely think that two 6k units would cool it.. Why not just put one 13k unit in.. Also did you install any sort of thermostat controller for the a/c's


----------



## labs4life

q2_hunter said:


> I would surely think that two 6k units would cool it.. Why not just put one 13k unit in.. Also did you install any sort of thermostat controller for the a/c's


I already had the other units. I used the Johnson control and removed the thermostat for the ac units.


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## q2_hunter

I dunno than, I would think two units would be enough.. My cooler was 8x8x8 with a 11k a/c I believe and I had no problems getting to low 30's temp inside the cooler when outside temp was in the 80*s


----------



## labs4life

q2_hunter said:


> I dunno than, I would think two units would be enough.. My cooler was 8x8x8 with a 11k a/c I believe and I had no problems getting to low 30's temp inside the cooler when outside temp was in the 80*s


I just put a thermometer in one of the units and it will only get to 60*. I am going to check the other one now. I suspect the same. Both units froze up by Saturday morning and we did not turn it on until Friday afternoon.


----------



## q2_hunter

labs4life said:


> I just put a thermometer in one of the units and it will only get to 60*. I am going to check the other one now. I suspect the same. Both units froze up by Saturday morning and we did not turn it on until Friday afternoon.


Take some pics of your setup..


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## tazman7

Here is my fridge that I have been building over the last couple of weeks. It is 40" x 45" x 7'6" 

I still need to buy a thermostat for the air conditioner and finish sealing around the air conditioner.

I have a winch mounted on top so I dont have to lift the deer up to hang it.

I also mounted it on wheels so I can move it around the garage if needed


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## FearNot

Mine worked great last year. I left my 4.5 year old buck hang for 8 days. The meat actually had the coloration of beef. The meat had "set" very nice. My deer would of never been hung for 8 days due to how warm the temps were. If you can build one, you will glad you did without regret! The coolbot worked great too.

Good Luck


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## joaxe

Here is mine (finally started!)...

























I just received the LG 10,000 BTU air conditioner the other day and the Coolbot is due tomorrow. Too bad, it's not gonna be done for the weekend! Our early season opener is this Saturday. but...at least I got started! :wink:

Joe


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## joaxe

FYI...got the Coolbot today. Looks WAY different (more pro looking) than what the website shows (must be a new version).

FWIW, They said if Coolbot owners submit pictures showing the Coolbot being used with an air conditioner in a cooler room, they will DOUBLE the warranty on the Coolbot.

Nice!!!

Joe


----------



## hot water

Man! What a great idea. Keep up the good work guys. I think ill b making one for my self. I'll let u know how I make out.


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## joessmokin

Ok got my wiring fixxed only had to disconect bothe thermostats inside my AC. But once my room hits around 54 degrees my AC freezes up any help would be great.


----------



## joessmokin

Well just ordered my coolbot and it should be here in two days will report back once its installed and hopfully working as they say it will


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## tazman7

Have a couple of finishing touches to do and them im done!

Going to caulk the inside corners today and then put on a coat or two of polycrylic to make it easier cleaning.

Yesterday I took the left wall apart to cut another window slot in it because I had a HUGE brain fart while building it and realized that I put the window on the wrong side. So I cut a piece of osb to fit over the window on the other side and filled the hole with insulation.

I also mounted a winch on the top of it so I don't have to lift the deer to the hooks. (I'm trying to make deer hunting as easy as possible because if I hurt my back, my career is done for :thumbs_up )


I still need to order a thermostat for the air conditioner. I think that I am going to go with the Johnson Controls one that another member used in this thread. $70 compared to $300 works for me!


----------



## inthestand

1trackmind said:


> I think the drain will be like a big air leak. Just my two cents


Your plumbing has a p-trap that holds water so sewer gas doesnt come into the house/structure. it acts the same fashion for cold air in your house. so it doesnt escape. 
I would not be concerned about loosing cool air through the floor drain.


----------



## joaxe

Very nice, tazman7! Is that a pre-hung steel door on the cooler? Also, what are the dimensions of the "window" for the AC unit? And...where did you get the digital temp unit?

My Coolbot order arrived after 7 days because they use Amazon fulfillment to ship. I guess that's why it took that long to get to PA from NY.

Joe


----------



## tazman7

joaxe said:


> Very nice, tazman7! Is that a pre-hung steel door on the cooler? Also, what are the dimensions of the "window" for the AC unit? And...where did you get the digital temp unit?
> 
> My Coolbot order arrived after 7 days because they use Amazon fulfillment to ship. I guess that's why it took that long to get to PA from NY.
> 
> Joe


Thanks,

Yeah that is a pre-hung steel insulated door. I got it for free so I cant complain.

The digital temp is just a meat thermometer from Kohls or Walmart I believe. I was just messing with it to see how long the temp would stay at 60 before the air conditioner would kick back on....about 7 minutes.

And the window dimensions for this air conditioner are 18"x12"


----------



## Maxtor

Some nice units here guys.....:thumbs_up And lots of good info for others who are thinking of doing this!


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## joaxe

Thank you, Maxtor, for the original post! :thumbs_up

Joe


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## evins74s

Tazman, you have a PM. And was wondering if you could post a pic of the drain on the floor.


----------



## joessmokin

Well got my coolbot today and with in 2 hours my 8x12x9 building was down to 35 degrees then but went up to 37 after opening the door will be puting door trimming around the inside of the door to make a better seal.


----------



## joaxe

Joe,

My Coolbot looks different than yours. Yours looks just like on their website. The one I got supposedly is a "new" design. Just hope it works as good as yours seems to.

I'm about 3/4 of the way done. I've got the structure framed out (still have to put the roof panel on) and insulated with the roll R-13 insulation. Now I need to rough in a pre-hung steel door and 2" polyiso boards for the inside.

...in all this rain we're getting this weekend.

Joe


----------



## evins74s

Can somebody that is using the Johnson Controls post up some pics of how they wired it in, I will be a using a old a/c unit that i have.


----------



## q2_hunter

joessmokin said:


> View attachment 1170619
> 
> Well got my coolbot today and with in 2 hours my 8x12x9 building was down to 35 degrees then but went up to 37 after opening the door will be puting door trimming around the inside of the door to make a better seal.


Looks good, my only question though is it took 2 hours to get to 35 degrees seems like alot.. With my 8x8x8 and johnson controller and ambient temp outside was like 88-90 degrees I believe from the time I turned my on till it got to around 35 degrees it took like 12 minutes.. I don't recall for sure but I think my past post on this thread I gave details to that..


----------



## q2_hunter

evins74s said:


> Can somebody that is using the Johnson Controls post up some pics of how they wired it in, I will be a using a old a/c unit that i have.


I don't have mine anymore to post pics but its quite simple.. If you buy the controller with the plug already attached than you plug the controller into a wall outlet than your a/c into the other plug on the controller. If you don't get the controller with the plug preinstalled than A: you can wire a plug into the controller or B: cut the plug off the a/c and wire it directly into the controller.. Diagram should come with controller on where your wiring goes.. Its rather easy so don't sike yourself out about it.. 

On the a/c pop the front cover off and (if you have an older style a/c that has knobs) go the knob that you control the temperature with and on the back side of that knob controller there should be two wires going into it. Take those wires off and connect them directly together. Once you do that you can yank out the knob controller and the thermostat that ties into it and goes to your cooling fins.. Very simple operation..


----------



## joessmokin

G2,
My building is 8X12X9 so I am not sure if the size or me going in and out to check it took it longer to cool. All I know is that with my ranco the AC froze up and with the Coolbot it did not. 

I got my winch installed today, put an inside trim around the door to add some more insulation around it,






I need to seal the floor and find a temp gauge I can put out side and know what the inside temp is without going in.


----------



## q2_hunter

Joe, do you have the vent closed so it will recirculate the air inside the cooler instead of the a/c pulling air from outside the cooler??


----------



## joessmokin

G2,
Yes the vent is closed. I have not tried to run it again due to my schedual.


----------



## IrishnId

This is one of AT's best threads ever. I will be building one of these next year.


----------



## danielq

joessmokin said:


> I need to seal the floor and find a temp gauge I can put out side and know what the inside temp is without going in.


You could get a wireless indoor outdoor thermometer like they sale at Wal-Mart. They are battery operated, but last for a pretty long time. They would be reasonably price starting around $15 or so.


----------



## Dairy King

inthestand said:


> Your plumbing has a p-trap that holds water so sewer gas doesnt come into the house/structure. it acts the same fashion for cold air in your house. so it doesnt escape.
> I would not be concerned about loosing cool air through the floor drain.


Yep, that's what I was going to say. And you shouldn't have to worry about the water freezing because the temps aren't getting below freezing. If you don't plan on running water through it you'll need to add a little bit of oil to the trap so the water doesn't evaporate. You could get fancy and install a trap primer I guess, lol.


----------



## joessmokin

danielq said:


> You could get a wireless indoor outdoor thermometer like they sale at Wal-Mart. They are battery operated, but last for a pretty long time. They would be reasonably price starting around $15 or so.


Thanks Danielg I will have to look into that. Just got done sealing the floor tonight. The U for my rail system needed some adjustments so hopfully I will have it monday.


----------



## spinfire

*Cooler Cost??*

Can you give me a ballpark estimate on how much this cooler cost to build? Would love to build one for next season!


----------



## joessmokin

I shot my first deer of the year; a doe today with my bow. here it is hanging it the cooler. I finally after all the work I get to use it.

Spinfire,
Mine was more than most due to wanting it to look like part of my house. I figure I have close to 3K in mine. which included the railroad ties, gravel, cement, 25K AC, Coolbot, shingles, flooring I put on the walls, winch, electrical, 2 fans, R30 insulation, cement board for the out side so the bees can't eat through, cement sealer,and some other ods and ins. This does not cout the supplies that where given to me like 3/4" ply wood, 2x12 for the rafters just to name some. Mine is an over kill in some places but when you get it for free you do what you can with it.


----------



## joaxe

spinfire said:


> Can you give me a ballpark estimate on how much this cooler cost to build? Would love to build one for next season!



I figure that it's going to come in close to $1000 for mine. The biggest expenses are the AC unit, the Coolbot and the rigid foam panels (2" Dow Super-Tuff polyiso). I also just roughed-in a flush-mount insulated pre-hung steel door ($116). Still need to shim it and finalize the door. Hoping to to get the foam panels up this week in preparaton for Saturday (if I happen to get lucky!).

Joe


----------



## joessmokin

Got my wire indoor outdoor thermometer at Wal-Mart; thanks danielq and it is working great. No more opening the door.

Now my issue. My AC is freezing up some at the bottom as seen in this photo. Is any one elses doing this and I have the Coolbot set at 38 degrees and sometimes it takes it to 32?








Here is a photo of the new improved U that I will be hanging soon.


----------



## madarchery

Would it be better to instal the AC in a separate area and run duct work? I say this because then when it shuts down it is able to defrost better within a warmer environment. You would obviously need to install a flap dampener to seal in the cold of the cooler.


----------



## tazman7

I just got my Johnson Controls Thermostat in the mail today. The instructions on it are very confusing. It has a male and female plug in. Do I just plug one into the wall and one into the air conditioner and run it like that? Or do I have to take the front cover off and wire the two wires together that are going into the digital thermostat on the ac unit?


----------



## DXT122

Would a air conditioner that already has a thermostat were you could set a low and high temp work.


----------



## q2_hunter

tazman7 said:


> I just got my Johnson Controls Thermostat in the mail today. The instructions on it are very confusing. It has a male and female plug in. Do I just plug one into the wall and one into the air conditioner and run it like that? Or do I have to take the front cover off and wire the two wires together that are going into the digital thermostat on the ac unit?


Yes the male end goes into wall and female into the a/c.. Yes you have to hardwire the thermostat on the a/c.. You might want to read this whole thread again as it all has been discussed a few times now..


----------



## q2_hunter

DXT122 said:


> Would a air conditioner that already has a thermostat were you could set a low and high temp work.


 never seen one that could get that low in temp but I guess if theres one out there that can reach the temps needed than sure..


----------



## Stavos

joessmokin said:


> View attachment 1176755
> 
> I shot my first deer of the year; a doe today with my bow. here it is hanging it the cooler. I finally after all the work I get to use it.
> 
> Spinfire,
> Mine was more than most due to wanting it to look like part of my house. I figure I have close to 3K in mine. which included the railroad ties, gravel, cement, 25K AC, Coolbot, shingles, flooring I put on the walls, winch, electrical, 2 fans, R30 insulation, cement board for the out side so the bees can't eat through, cement sealer,and some other ods and ins. This does not cout the supplies that where given to me like 3/4" ply wood, 2x12 for the rafters just to name some. Mine is an over kill in some places but when you get it for free you do what you can with it.


NOM NOM NOM! Congrats, and very nice unit.......the cooler that is lol.


----------



## joessmokin

Still looking for any responces about there AC freezing up at the bottom durning long time usage like mine did using the Coolbot. Photo on page 8


----------



## joessmokin

Guess everyone is done building this year


----------



## 1trackmind

I only ran my cooler for 5 days and I only had about 1" of freezing at the botton of the coils. You need to look to see if your A/C is tilted forward and if the water is flowing out ok. 
Just my two cents.


----------



## joessmokin

Mine is definetly tilted to the rear got it running now with a buddies deer in the cooler will have to see how it does this time.


----------



## EDoubleNickels

I am getting ready to build a 4x8x8 unit this weekend. Did you use 2"x6" for the frame? Did anyone use the rigid foam insulation? What kind and how thick? Basically, I am just wondering if anyone else has any plans, etc. I have found miscellaneous stuff on the web, but I would rather hear it from a fellow ATer. Thanks guys!


----------



## joaxe

Dub,

As per Ron K. at StoreItCold.com (Coolbot maker), I used 2x4 wall construction and R-13 roll insulation (vaopr barrier to the outside) in my cooler. I used Dow Super Tuff-R (polyiso) 2" 4x8 foam panels inside with the foil side to the outside (this was all OK'd by Ron). The Dow panels were about $33 each at Home Depot (?!?!?!). I "Great Stuff" foamed the seams and taped them with Nashua 398 tape (I also experimented with silicone caulk in the vertical seams).

My cooler is 6x8 and I am using an LG 10,000 BTU AC unit with the newest Coolbot device. I am still wiring up the AC outlets and light source inside the cooler but should be done this week. Too bad, it's already snowed here and temps were in the high 30's to low 40's already! Doesn't matter...the cooler is in my 2-car garage.

If I can help more, PM me.









Joe


----------



## EDoubleNickels

Right on joaxe, thanks! I found a deal on a commercial cooler door on craigslist so I am jump starting this project. I will let you guys know how it turns out.

Rob


----------



## joaxe

I finally got a chance to finish wiring the outlet in the cooler for the AC unit and the Coolbot. I tested it out last night. Outside temp here in SE PA was about 60 degrees F (59 in the cooler "box"). I switched on the Coolbot and AC unit and closed the door. Within 15 minutes or so, the temp on the Coolbot read 39 degrees F. NICE!!! Still need to seal the AC unit opening more tightly and maybe put more Nashua 398 HVAC tape or silicone caulk over the Great Stuff-foamed seams but it looks very promising!

...now, just gotta get some venison hanging in there!

Joe


----------



## phisto

Interesting! I'm keeping an eye on this.


----------



## Maxtor

Finally got to use my fridge this year. Building it last year must have jinxed us because we got skunked last year. This year, we have our second buck hanging in it right now. It's running between 34F and 39F and no issues what-so-ever. Definitely glad I made the investment and built this..


----------



## 1trackmind

We used my cooler for alligator and deer so far.


----------



## 1trackmind

You can only fit so much in a small cooler.


----------



## joessmokin

I thought I would bring this thread back for people thinking about making one before the season gets here.


----------



## truckertim

I actually bought an 1200 btu ac unit that runs 220 and with the coolbot i can run an 8x10 homemade cooler really cheap during the hot months of sept and oct the ac unit brand new for 100 $


----------



## joessmokin

That was something that was not brought up much was the cost to run the coolers. Mine, I did not notice much of a differnce in my bill maybe $15 but here in TN your bill can chancge month to month due to our weather. Either way it was cheap.


----------



## joaxe

I have yet to put the CDX plywood sheating over my R-13 roll insulation and Dow Super-Tuff R sheets. Have done 3 tests so far since building it last year. On each test, the temp. dropped 15-18 degrees in about 15 minutes. My Coolbot is set to 38 degrees. I actually need to move the cooler forward a bit so that I can hang the CDX sheets on the outside back wall. I bought a come-along and will be using eye bolts and a ratchet strap to move it about 3-5 feet forward. I'll also need to lay down foam then plywood on the garage floor as the slab "pulls" some of the cold into it.

Besides joessmokin, anybody else have any "running" costs for the cooler? Our season starts September 15th and I'll probably (hopefully) need to use it into November.

Can't wait to use it!

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

I'd have to agree with Joessmokin, I didn't really see much of a difference in our bill either. If it's $15 - $20 it's still worth the investment to me because I'd much rather have every step of the meat processing done right here in my home.


----------



## FearNot

Elect bill is aprox $15 run cost for the coolbot


----------



## joaxe

Excellent! Thanks, peeps!

...and thanks again, Maxtor, for the build information! :shade:

Joe


----------



## phantom1

Cool thread! No pun intended...You guys amaze me. Thanks for sharing. Now I have another dream. A neighbor who has one of these and owes me money! Figured I might as well dream big, rather than just build one myself!!!haha! Just kidding, my wife can build it.:wink:


----------



## joessmokin

Looks like I might have to start mine up early to keep the pumpkins good till October. This crazy weather we are having. Also might have to think about running it all year long and put my beer kegs in there and run the tap to the man cave.


----------



## Sling_King

Ttt


----------



## Jason Jurgenson

I only got to use mine twice last year and only ran for 3 or 4 days at a time,didn't really notice too much of a price jump in the electric bill. Mine is setup with a Johnson controller, it didn't work as well as I hoped for but managed to get the job done.


----------



## C Svach

Awsome builds guys. The only thing I would do different is put a flat screen tv on the wall and lazyboy recliner inside. Its been in or near 100 degrees the past few weeks in Chicago. That would have been my summer man cave!!!!! My place to "CHILL" away from wife and kiddies!!!


----------



## phantom1

I have a question. Early on in this thread, someone said their buddy bought the wrong kind of air conditioners and had already burned up two of them. What are the right kinds and wrong kinds, so we only buy once. Did I see Coolbots are $200? How much for right kind of air conditioners in America..Indiana specifically? Thanks!


----------



## Maxtor

phantom1 said:


> I have a question. Early on in this thread, someone said their buddy bought the wrong kind of air conditioners and had already burned up two of them. What are the right kinds and wrong kinds, so we only buy once. Did I see Coolbots are $200? How much for right kind of air conditioners in America..Indiana specifically? Thanks!


 Can't help you with A/C prices in your area but as far as what brand, certain brands work better with the CoolBot. Go HERE and it will explain which models are the best. It also tells you which size they recommend for the size fridge you have


----------



## phantom1

Thanks for the quick help Maxtor! I have depridation permits and shoot deer in the summer as well as hunting season am always needing a better way to keep them cool than just icing down the cavity. I am sure the solution is here on AT.


----------



## joaxe

phantom1,

I bought an 10,000 BTU LG unit (preferred by Ron K. at CoolBot). Once registered, the LG carries a 5-year "in home" warranty! That alone was worth the price (about $320). I bought mine last year online from Compact Appliance because nobody had any in stock (was just past the end of summer).

FYI - use of the CoolBot does NOT void the AC warranty (unlike other controllers where you have to modify the AC wiring). :thumbs_up

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

I'd also like to add that the guys at CoolBot are awesome and more then willing to help you if you have any issues setting up the CoolBot.


----------



## phantom1

Thanks guys. I would have thought the cost of shipping a 10,000 btu A/C would be price prohibitive. If $320 included shipping, then I am presently surprised.


----------



## joaxe

Here ya go...

http://www.compactappliance.com/LG-...html?cgid=Air_Quality-Window_Air_Conditioners Free Shipping! (same one I bought last year)

The price may drop in a month or so. If you wait to buy, you can still build the cooler and add the AC unit and CoolBot last. BTW, in the CoolBot paperwork I received when I bought it last year, StoreItCold said they would "double" the warranty on the CoolBot if you send pictures of the completed cooler with the CoolBot shown. Don't know if that still applies...but it should as they have a 1% return rate on the units. Guess I have to get the camera out...

Joe


----------



## poacherhater

These rgreat ideas. Especially for the warmer times like early archery. Last winter here in indiana it was scary warm. I didnt enjoy hunting but i lovehunting in real cold temps im very hot natured. This freezer would solve my meat curing problems . This gathering of like minds and ideas is why i like Atalk forums. What brand is the best ac unit to use and how many btu.per fot do u need.


----------



## joaxe

poach,

Look at post 272 above. Maxtor posted a link for the CoolBot site which will answer those questions.

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

poacherhater said:


> These rgreat ideas. Especially for the warmer times like early archery. Last winter here in indiana it was scary warm. I didnt enjoy hunting but i lovehunting in real cold temps im very hot natured. This freezer would solve my meat curing problems . This gathering of like minds and ideas is why i like Atalk forums. What brand is the best ac unit to use and how many btu.per fot do u need.




Dimensions of Cooler	Size of A/C Unit
6' x 8'	10,000 BTU
8' x 8'	12,000 BTU
8' x 10'	15,000 BTU
8' x 12'	18,000 BTU
10' x 12'	21,000 BTU
10' x 14'	25,000 BTU


best A/C units to use:
*
LG is their FIRST CHOICE

Samsung

Frigidaire - Does NOT work when it's cold outside!

Sharp

Haier

GE Brand

Friedrich - The company says that the air conditioners will STOP WORKING if the outside temperature falls below 60 degrees!!!

Sears Kenmore*

*DANBY DOES NOT WORK WITH COOLBOT!!*


----------



## qmb9015

man after seeing all of these i really want to buy a house just so that i can build one of these we already want an extra freezer/fridge for our garage but now that ive seen these i want one...nice work guys they all look great


----------



## joaxe

FYI - the link I posted to Compact Appliance will indicate that the LG unit only has a 1-year warranty. That is *INCORRECT*. LG warranties are for 5 years (and are "in home") for those types of appliances.

Joe


----------



## phantom1

Thanks joaxe! I am saving up for something to store deer until they can be processed. Looks like I am at the right thread!


----------



## Maxtor

phantom1 said:


> Thanks joaxe! I am saving up for something to store deer until they can be processed. Looks like I am at the right thread!


 Why not go the whole nine yards and process them yourself? Then everything is done right at your home and you know how everything is being handled. Doesn't really take much to be able to process your deer at home


----------



## Mississippi66

Subscribed!! Great thread. I'll be building on myself in the near future.

Been processing my own deer long as i been hunting. Got just about every thing i need except a walk in cooler. I never knew making one could be so simple.


----------



## joaxe

Update: I installed the 6" eye screws into the ceiling for hanging deer this weekend. I put in stainless S hooks and a gambrel off each eye screw. To test it, I lifted myself off the ground and did pull-ups on the gambrels (I'm 185 lbs.). These will hold ANY PA deer! :wink:

I also used some more spray foam to seal up some little crevices, installed a pull-chain light socket and mounted a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer next to the entrance. I still may install foam and plywood for a floor to prevent any cold air from leeching into the concrete slab. But, otherwise, it's ready to go!

...46 days and a wake-up!!! :thumbs_up

Joe


----------



## rfeather

My Uncle built one years ago, from the refridgerator box off of a delivery truck. It is set up against a hillside, then he buried in place with his dozer, leaving only the front exposed. Cut out a hole for the ac unit, wired her up. Works like a dream.


----------



## phantom1

Maxtor said:


> Why not go the whole nine yards and process them yourself? Then everything is done right at your home and you know how everything is being handled. Doesn't really take much to be able to process your deer at home


I would and I have many before and still a few rare ones, but I am severely disabled and what once was easy is now almost impossible on a good day. Anyway, I'm not quitting, I just have to dial it back to what I can live with. There is no way I can pull off building a permanent one this year. Maybe get the air conditioner and 4x8 sheets of foam insulation to have a temporary set-up until next year. Didn't someone have a foam closet type of deal with duct taped corners and the a/c on the floor? Maybe it was Rancid Crabtree, but I see he is banned (temporary or permanent?).

I like the price of the Johnson Control vs the Coolbot, but don't know if it voids the warranty on new a/c units or if they will work with Johnson because new is digital.

I need some more help/direction on this, so I don't waste money or get in over my head. More links if anyone has more..it's late and my head is spinning. Goodnight!


----------



## joaxe

phantom1 said:


> I would and I have many before and still a few rare ones, but I am severely disabled and what once was easy is now almost impossible on a good day. Anyway, I'm not quitting, I just have to dial it back to what I can live with. There is no way I can pull off building a permanent one this year. Maybe get the air conditioner and 4x8 sheets of foam insulation to have a temporary set-up until next year. Didn't someone have a foam closet type of deal with duct taped corners and the a/c on the floor? Maybe it was Rancid Crabtree, but I see he is banned (temporary or permanent?).
> 
> I like the price of the Johnson Control vs the Coolbot, but don't know if it voids the warranty on new a/c units or if they will work with Johnson because new is digital.
> 
> I need some more help/direction on this, so I don't waste money or get in over my head. More links if anyone has more..it's late and my head is spinning. Goodnight!


You mean this one....?

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=765158

Joe


----------



## phantom1

joaxe,

That's the thread! How did you find it so fast???? I have looked for hours, most of them at Rancid's threads, but that was going down the wrong road....my memory, then I searched coolers, foam, etc. Anyway, I love how simple this design is and inexpensive. Plus you can fold it up when you're done. Has anyone else tried it?


----------



## joaxe

phantom1 said:


> joaxe,
> 
> That's the thread! How did you find it so fast???? I have looked for hours, most of them at Rancid's threads, but that was going down the wrong road....my memory, then I searched coolers, foam, etc. Anyway, I love how simple this design is and inexpensive. Plus you can fold it up when you're done. Has anyone else tried it?


I remembered that thread and how people were breaking the guy's stones about how "*******" it was. So...I searched "deer cooler *******" on Google and the ArcheryTalk posts were the 4th hit from the top. His thread ("my home made deer cooler") was the last one listed with 30 posts. As soon as I saw his avatar (AiR_GuNNeR), I knew that was the thread. I love Google! I'm in IT and whenever I can't remember some technical network issue, it's Google to the rescue!

I just wanted something a little more "robust"...plus, I have the room in my 2-car detached garage! :wink:

...but that design works well, too!

Joe


----------



## phantom1

joaxe, great job finding that and thanks for the explanation on how you did it so fast. I love Google too, it's amazing. Good memory on your part too! Yea, it's *******, but I don't care about that. If I had the extra space, I would consider the permanent style you and some others have.


----------



## joaxe

phantom1 said:


> joaxe, great job finding that and thanks for the explanation on how you did it so fast. I love Google too, it's amazing. Good memory on your part too! Yea, it's *******, but I don't care about that. If I had the extra space, I would consider the permanent style you and some others have.


No problem, Greg! Hope you can build one. I can't wait to put some venison in mine this season!

Good Luck and Good Hunting!

Joe


----------



## joaxe

Actually, I can disassemble mine if need be. The studs are nailed to the plates for each wall but...all walls and ceiling are screwed together with 3" deck screws (star head). If I ever needed to move, I could take it apart and bring it with me.

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

Mine is movable as well, just as a whole unit. Can actually load it into a trailer and take it to hunting camp and run it off a generator if need be


----------



## randallss7

cool....I wish I had one right now, I would work in it, I'm tired of 110-113 temperatures...


----------



## joessmokin

Glad to see this thread is still going. I started mine back up to make sure it was ready come deer season. It was 89 inside when I started it up and with in 10 minutes it was below 60 so I was pleased. I have 3" I beams in mine with a roller system to hang deer from along with a winch to hall them up to the I beam. I have read that some units have work with the Johnson control. I found when I tried one that my AC froze up once the inside temp hit the dew point. With my coolbot I had no problems. Good luck to all building one. They can be very simple or as detailed as some here on AT.


----------



## Maxtor

Only thing I would like to change with mine is, I had put the big eye bolts in the ceiling for hanging the deer. Would like to change that to some sort of roller system


----------



## joessmokin

Check page 8 out #238 and #240 it shows part of my system. I will get some new photo up in the next day or so.


----------



## joessmokin

Here is my rail system. I got a winch from Harbor Frieght when it went on sale.


----------



## Maxtor

joessmokin said:


> View attachment 1432875
> 
> Here is my rail system. I got a winch from Harbor Frieght when it went on sale.


 okay, that's just sickening......lol Hey Joe, did you put them two fans in just to help move air? Does it work well? I do like the rail system though


----------



## redmag

A friend of mine made a cooler out of an old soda machine. He removed the racks inside and would cut the head and legs off deer and hung maybe 4 deer in the thing. Don't know anything about how cold it was but I know he kept deer in there for several days.


----------



## WVBowhunter10

Guys all the units look awesome. You all did a great job on them. I would love to have one at my place but I don't have the room in the small garage I have nor do I have the room outside but when I do I will certainly be coming back to this thread.


----------



## joessmokin

I think the fans work great to move the air especially when you have deer next to the AC. I have left a deer in mine for 2 weeks at 36 degrees and it was supper tender. Just a side note if you put a rail system in and put a winch in make sure your winch lifts them close to the rail or do like I had to do I mounted a pully on one of my roller systems to pull it up right under the rail.


----------



## joessmokin

I figured I will add to this thread to take back to the top. Those of you reading this entire thread can see that some of us have build very small walk-in fridges and others are large. I have nothing against any of them I am just pointing out you do not need a lot of room to make one and it can be taken down at the end of the season for storage. the smaller portables some are making for inside a garage are great and they will heat your garage also with the exhaust from your AC. Well enough rambling for now. Hope more can enjoy this thread and learn from it.


----------



## joessmokin

I would like to thank Maxtor for starting this thread. Without you starting this thread a lot of people includinging my self would never have acomplished what we did. The imposible only take a little resurch, time and the posibility to fail but some time we succeed. Mastor, Your the MAN you started this and We have been able to succeed from it. THANK YOU


----------



## Maxtor

Thanks Joe but I simply wanted to pass on something useful to the good people and fellow hunters on this site. I've gotten lots of ideas from others sharing their posts on here so this was just a way of returning the favor


----------



## Maxtor

Get your deer fridges made, deer season is coming fast!! For those that already have them built, fire them up and make sure all is running well before needing it!!

Good luck to all this season, lets see pics of fridge being used


----------



## joaxe

Only 30 more days (29 and 1 sleep) till our season starts here in PA.

The cooler is ready! 

Joe


----------



## joessmokin

Tested mine out and made the winch system easier so one person can hand a deer with no problem. For those of you with bigger coolers think about adding a fan or two I think it helps a lot.


----------



## stickin em'

Just wanna watch this thread for more awesome ideas


----------



## phantom1

OK, the 880# rated hoist is mounted in the ceiling. The foil faced rigid insulation is bought. Now I need to find a 10,000-15,000 btu air conditioner. I guess if you buy used, a good way to check it before you buy would be the air temperture coming out of the vents (about 50 degrees F, sound right?) and no weird noises?

I need input on buying a used AC. New sounds great, except for that money thing.........


----------



## joaxe

Greg,

This is the one I have and it's on sale (with a rebate) if you can do "the money thing"

http://www.compactappliance.com/LG-...ir_Quality-Window_Air_Conditioners-8001_10000

It's an LG which is favored by the CoolBot folks and comes with a 5-year "in home" warranty (not the 1-year listed on the CA site - that is incorrect!)!

Just an FYI...

Joe


----------



## phantom1

Joe,

I may do just that. Got a neighbor in the HVAC business and want to talk with him first. Thanks for that link!


----------



## phantom1

Joe,

Two questions:

1) What if you have a problem with the air conditioner, after you buy from this internet company? Do they send a repairman or cover shipping to return it?

2) Where did you get that outrageous rail system for hanging many deer?

You know life would be a whole lot easier if you just moved yourself and all your neat toys closer to our place!!!!!

Thanks for sharing your knowledge!


----------



## joaxe

Greg,

1. The warranty is through LG. Once you buy the unit, you register it on their site. They dispatch local authorized service for the unit.

2. I think the rail system is joessmokin's. Better ask him...

Joe


----------



## joessmokin

The rail system is 3" I beam and for the "U" I had a friend cut a U shape out of a sheet of 1/4" steel plate and then weld bracing in-between the two pieces. I welded flat pieces of steel on the top of the rail so the lag bolts don’t interfere with the roller system and there are more lag bolts into the supports. If you need better photos let me know.
Joe


----------



## DougKMN

joessmokin said:


> The rail system is 3" I beam and for the "U" I had a friend cut a U shape out of a sheet of 1/4" steel plate and then weld bracing in-between the two pieces. I welded flat pieces of steel on the top of the rail so the lag bolts don’t interfere with the roller system and there are more lag bolts into the supports. If you need better photos let me know.
> Joe


Please do provide additional photos, especially of the U. It sounds like you fabricated it instead of purchased a ready-made "meat locker" system.


----------



## joessmokin

If you down load this photo and blow it up you can see a better view of how I mounted it.


----------



## joessmokin

Same on this photo


----------



## joessmokin

Note ensure your mounting bracket are wider than the rail system to ensure your rollers don't hit your mounting bolts.


----------



## joessmokin

I thought I would bring this back to the first page lets keep it going. Who's going to have the first deer in there cooler this year?


----------



## joaxe

joessmokin said:


> I thought I would bring this back to the first page lets keep it going. Who's going to have the first deer in there cooler this year?


Don't know...but I've got 13 tags...and our season starts on September 15th. I'm ready!

BTW, I just bought some 3/4" Owens Corning Foamular sheets to insulate the floor (concrete slab) as I was getting some weird temperature swings trying to get the temp. down to 38 degrees F. The sheets interlock and I'll just lay some OSB plywood down over it. The folks at StoreItCold.com indicated that when going below 40 degrees, cold air will "sink" into the slab as it tries to equalize the temperature.

However, in my recent tests, with outside temps at 72 degrees, I was able to get the room down to 41 degrees in 30-40 minutes. Not bad. Looking forward to getting the floor insulated and tested by this weekend.

Joe


----------



## joessmokin

Great info Joe It looks like the Joe's might be runninr this thread LOL. I have not had an issue with my 4" cement floor but I have my cooler on the west side of my house so it helps keep it cool and the house shades it.

Joe


----------



## joaxe

Cooler Peeps,

Be sure to check out the updated http://www.storeitcold.com/ site! Great info for anyone building a cooler (or renovating a used one)!

Also, Ron K at StoreItCold.com just confirmed that you can double your CoolBot warranty by sending pictures of your cooler showing the CoolBot installed.

"Chill Out!" :wink:

Joe


----------



## phantom1

Thanks to both Joe's for answering my two question. Got the water available in the garage today. Now it's just new a/c versus uses and coolbot vs. adjust the temperature setting on a used one. You guys are very inspiring.


----------



## Maxtor

joaxe said:


> Cooler Peeps,
> 
> Be sure to check out the updated http://www.storeitcold.com/ site! Great info for anyone building a cooler (or renovating a used one)!
> 
> Also, Ron K at StoreItCold.com just confirmed that you can double your CoolBot warranty by sending pictures of your cooler showing the CoolBot installed.
> 
> "Chill Out!" :wink:
> 
> Joe


  I should get a bonus for starting this thread and bringing the coolbot boys lots of business! 

Can't never go wrong by installing one of these


----------



## phantom1

Thanks Maxtor! Yes, you should be getting a commission from the Coolbot folks. Lots of folks here appreciate what you have started. AT has to be the greatest sight on the internet....


----------



## phantom1

$279 for the LG 10,000 btu air condition at Home Depot now. They must be lowering the price for fall. I am only seeing a one year warranty at that sight and LG's, but I thought Consumer Reports listed it as a longer warranty as joeaxe is saying.


----------



## Maxtor

That's a good price for a 10,000 even if it is only a one year warranty. Must be nice, Home Depot here in Canada a 10,000 is $349.00 :thumbs_do


----------



## joessmokin

Maxtor said:


> I should get a bonus for starting this thread and bringing the coolbot boys lots of business!
> 
> Can't never go wrong by installing one of these


I agree 100% you should get something from Coolbot


----------



## joaxe

phantom1 said:


> $279 for the LG 10,000 btu air condition at Home Depot now. They must be lowering the price for fall. I am only seeing a one year warranty at that sight and LG's, but I thought Consumer Reports listed it as a longer warranty as joeaxe is saying.


Greg,

Prices must have dropped due to the end of the cooling season approaching. Grab it now before they sell out and you have to go online to get one (happened to me). The model I bought (LW1011ER) is $269 on LG's site. As per the warranty, I knew that it was a 5-year "in home" warranty but only found 1-year listed for that model on their site (I did find a 5-year reference in the "MyLG" site (login created when I registered my AC unit)). However, just to confirm, I conducted an online "chat" with LG this morning:









Joe


----------



## Maxtor

I would have to think that with the limited time "most" of us are using these units (mostly for deer season only) that an a/c unit would last years. One thing people need to keep in mind is that during the off-season, at least once you should run your fridge/cooler for an hour or so just so the a/c unit is not sitting for an entire year.


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> I would have to think that with the limited time "most" of us are using these units (mostly for deer season only) that an a/c unit would last years. One thing people need to keep in mind is that during the off-season, at least once you should run your fridge/cooler for an hour or so just so the a/c unit is not sitting for an entire year.


...and keep the fins clean using an old toothbrush and warm water!

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

joaxe said:


> ...and keep the fins clean using an old toothbrush and warm water!
> 
> Joe


 Good point


----------



## DougKMN

joaxe said:


> ...and keep the fins clean using an old toothbrush and warm water!
> 
> Joe


Actually any tooth brush will work, but I would suggest not the one you plan to use on your teeth. The roommates brush is fair game though 

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## joessmokin

Might want to do a quick bleach clean down before the season also.


----------



## phantom1

joaxe, thanks for posting that. It would be worth knowing which ones have the 5 year warranty. I'd pay a little more and choose those. I called and my local Home Depot is out of all air conditioners, except for one roll around portable.....I will have to get on this one.


----------



## joaxe

phantom1 said:


> joaxe, thanks for posting that. It would be worth knowing which ones have the 5 year warranty. I'd pay a little more and choose those. I called and my local Home Depot is out of all air conditioners, except for one roll around portable.....I will have to get on this one.


Greg,

The model I bought (LW1011ER) and I think the LW1012ER (same BTU) have the 5-year warranty (check with LG). Like I said, the end of the season is rough as usually everyone is sold out. That's why I had to buy it online. You may want to check Home Depot's site, see if it in stock and have the unit shipped to your store for free. Otherwise, you'll have to scour the Internet for the best price/availability. Also, check directly with LG about buying it from them.

Whatever you do, do *NOT* buy a portable unit. They do not work with the CoolBot.

Here is the link again where I bought mine:

http://www.compactappliance.com/LG-...ir_Quality-Window_Air_Conditioners-8001_10000

Remember...no tax, no shipping from here! Real close to Home Depot's total price.

Joe


----------



## joessmokin

Where are some new photos of up grades you have done to your cooler?


----------



## doverpack12

I haven't checked on the thread in awhile but last time i did i hadn't seen anything on my question. I need a cheap way to cool a deer down for a day so i can get the meat cut up. I work out of town everyother week and they have lots of deer where i am working and i have a rental house i stay at. Any ideas.


----------



## doverpack12

I was thinking of something with some ice blocks and foam insulation possibly


----------



## DougKMN

doverpack12 said:


> I haven't checked on the thread in awhile but last time i did i hadn't seen anything on my question. I need a cheap way to cool a deer down for a day so i can get the meat cut up. I work out of town everyother week and they have lots of deer where i am working and i have a rental house i stay at. Any ideas.


you could look into the trophy bag kooler for this. Full retail is kind of expensive ($200) but you can sometimes find them on Ebay fairly cheap. I have 3 of them that I got for less than the price of one.

I've put deer in them for 4 days with a couple bags of ice and the inside was like a fridge when I opened it. The ice was a little over half melted when I got to them.

They are also nice because I haul my deer in a hitch carrier and the bag keeps them from getting full of road dirt.. 

Getting deer cooled fast and keeping it cool is a big part of making sure your venison isn't gamy.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2


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## joaxe

FInally was able to insulate the concrete slab floor (for the cooler) in my garage. I used Owens Corning Foamular 250 sheets (2x8x3/4) and interlocked them, taping the seams. I used Great Stuff spray foam around the edges and wound up laying CDX plywood over it creating an insulated "floor" of sorts. I tested the cooler and it was 79 degrees before turning on the AC and Coolbot. I shut the door and came back 40 minutes later. It dropped to 41 degrees. I came back an hour and a half later and the cooler was..............37 degress F!!! (I had the CoolBot set to 38 degrees). Looks like insulating the slab helped it cool down quicker! A few more small touches and I'm ready! 





















Joe


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## joessmokin

Looks Good Joe.

I used cheap linolium on the sides of my cooler for easy clean up.


----------



## joaxe

joessmokin said:


> Looks Good Joe.
> 
> I used cheap linolium on the sides of my cooler for easy clean up.


Joe,

I thought about something like that. How did you stick it on the walls? Adhesive?

Joe


----------



## phantom1

joaxe, your pictures are just showing the foam, but put plywood over it, rather than under it..right? You and Joe are addressing issues I'm looking at now. Mine is getting bigger before I have even started assembling. I was just going to make 4 x 4 ft, big enough for a few deer and that's all. Then I look at what you guys have and am thinking why not make it bigger and have a cool/cold place to work too. Probably looking at 8x8 ft now.

Making the floor water proof, I guess the sheets of insulation with foil on the outside and plastic film on the inside should already be water proof(durability may be questionable). Then there is the issue of how to drain the water. Floor drain or out the door or just mop it up.

My simple project is becoming less and less simple....and less expensive. I guess I have to go back and re-read the whole thread, unless some new answers are coming to the end of this thread.


----------



## Maxtor

That looks good Joaxe, should throw a pic on here of your floor with the plywood on it so others can see what it looks like. I'm still debating on insulating my concrete floor or not.


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> That looks good Joaxe, should throw a pic on here of your floor with the plywood on it so others can see what it looks like. I'm still debating on insulating my concrete floor or not.


Thanks! Yep...I did put CDX plywood down over the foam and spray-foamed all of the edges (just didn't have a picture to upload). I plan to tack building paper on the plywood to soak up any "liquids" coming from the deer as they hang. I guess I could paint the wood with varnish, sealer or porch paint to make it sort of water-resistant. Maybe I'll do that. StoreItCold.com refers to pitching the floor towards the door for run-off of any water. Some have put drains in their floors. Might be overkill for mine, though. I'll get a floor pic up this weekend. I'm going to do some more testing...

"Chill Out!" :wink:

Joe


----------



## joaxe

phantom1 said:


> joaxe, your pictures are just showing the foam, but put plywood over it, rather than under it..right? You and Joe are addressing issues I'm looking at now. Mine is getting bigger before I have even started assembling. I was just going to make 4 x 4 ft, big enough for a few deer and that's all. Then I look at what you guys have and am thinking why not make it bigger and have a cool/cold place to work too. Probably looking at 8x8 ft now.
> 
> Making the floor water proof, I guess the sheets of insulation with foil on the outside and plastic film on the inside should already be water proof(durability may be questionable). Then there is the issue of how to drain the water. Floor drain or out the door or just mop it up.
> 
> My simple project is becoming less and less simple....and less expensive. I guess I have to go back and re-read the whole thread, unless some new answers are coming to the end of this thread.


Greg,

Yep...plywood is ON TOP of the foam.

...and I wouldn't get so caught up in making the floor waterproof...unless you plan to be hosing out the interior of the cooler. Otherwise, nothing a bunch of rags or a sponge mop with disinfectant couldn't handle...

Joe


----------



## phantom1

Thanks joaxe. And I meant to type the project is getting less inexpensive! Oh well, do it right the first time.

On waterproofing the floor: I will probably have to hose it out, if I field dress them in there. I put a huge tub under the deer on the hoist now, but blood still goes places I don't want...


----------



## joaxe

phantom1 said:


> Thanks joaxe. And I meant to type the project is getting less inexpensive! Oh well, do it right the first time.
> 
> On waterproofing the floor: I will probably have to hose it out, if I field dress them in there. I put a huge tub under the deer on the hoist now, but blood still goes places I don't want...


Cool...just remember that water is like sound (I'm a musician) and air. It will take the path of least resistance so, if you're going to hose it out, make the cooler watertight. That will also help with cooling it.

Joe


----------



## hooiserarcher

I hooked up my coolbot two days ago and my homemade 8by8 cooler with 5 1/2 inch rigid foam insulation and a 15,000 btu lg a/c cooled down to 38 degrees in roughly 2 hours and has maintained 37 to 38 degrees since then. HAPPY!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## joessmokin

joaxe said:


> Joe,
> 
> I thought about something like that. How did you stick it on the walls? Adhesive?
> 
> Joe


I used the same glue they used to put in down down on floors on my walls. I did use a molding strip on top to hold it up to the ceiling for the glue to dry. Low cost easy clean up and it's something you can do when money comes around.


----------



## joessmokin

Joe, 
Check page 8 out #230 you can see the unpainted molding on the door and on #238 you can see the painted molding inside.

Joe


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## joaxe

Thanks, Joe!

BTW, I turned on my cooler after work today. Temp. was 80° in the garage. Came back to check on it after 1 hour. Temp. was 36°!!! Happy like Hoosier!

Will post a floor pic after dinner.

Joe


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## joessmokin

Joe,
Glad to hear everything is working. Once I get the first deer in the cooler this year I will keep mine running the rest of the season. I believe I use more electicity getting it cooled down the first time than I do maintaining the cooler at 36 degrees. I have a couple friend out on the KY opener so I might be starting it soon. I will post photos when the first one is in.

Joe


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## Maxtor

luckily here once deer season starts, the temps outside are already starting to drop so it doesn't take much to bring my fridge down to temps. Hope you don't jinx yourself Joe by saying you'll post pics when you get a deer in it........lol


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> luckily here once deer season starts, the temps outside are already starting to drop so it doesn't take much to bring my fridge down to temps. Hope you don't jinx yourself Joe by saying you'll post pics when you get a deer in it........lol


Hey...if this Joe doesn't get a deer...I'd be surprised. At least if I don't...I can store cases of beer in the cooler! :wink:

As promised, here are my "floor" pics, gambrels and the AC/Coolbot setup:



























"Cooler heads prevail..."

Joe


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## joessmokin

Heck with a case you can fit a couple kegs in there:tongue:


----------



## joaxe

joessmokin said:


> Heck with a case you can fit a couple kegs in there:tongue:


Word, Joe!!! 

Heading to the Homey D soon to pickup another set of hooks, some building paper, more caulk and HVAC tape. Should be 100% finished by tomorrow.

Joe


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## phantom1

joaxe, Awesome! Very inspiring.


----------



## phantom1

hooiserarcher said:


> I hooked up my coolbot two days ago and my homemade 8by8 cooler with 5 1/2 inch rigid foam insulation and a 15,000 btu lg a/c cooled down to 38 degrees in roughly 2 hours and has maintained 37 to 38 degrees since then. HAPPY!!!!!!!!!!!


Sounds great! Are you going to post some pictures for us to slobber over? It sounds like you built it right with plenty of btu's and expensive foam insulation. Can you say how much you have in it or is your wife nearby?


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## joaxe

ttt


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## joessmokin

Here is a buddies doe that he got in KY yesterday.


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## joaxe

Now I'm psyched!!!

Joe


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## joessmokin

I did have an issue when I started my system up. My AC frooze over and all I can figure is that the sensor that went into the AC fins did not have a good contact. After turning the AC off and letting the AC defrost the system worked great again.


----------



## joaxe

joessmokin said:


> I did have an issue when I started my system up. My AC frooze over and all I can figure is that the sensor that went into the AC fins did not have a good contact. After turning the AC off and letting the AC defrost the system worked great again.


Cool (pun intended)! Joe, on my LG, I inserted the temp sensor into the fins and used 2 really small slotted screwdrivers to "close" the fins around the sensor. Then, as an extra measure, wire-tied the sensor wire with some "strain relief" right to the frame of the LG. I'll see if I can get a pic of it for you.

Joe


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## 5Rangers

I"m thinking about one made with an enclosed trailer , maybe a 5x10.... Has anyone done this?


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## phantom1

joessmokin, I love the irony in that picture: a chest freezer in the walk in cooler! I used to think just putting a bunch of ice inside the deer after field dressing it was advanced. Not that anyone gets carried away here on AT. We are all very reasonable hunters and archers. There is no way we would ever get too involved with a project related to our "hobby".....and I'm proud of that, proud of everyone here. Just reasonable people doing reasonable things.


----------



## phantom1

5Rangers, great idea on the enclosed trailer! And....you can park it at my place to get it out of your way. No charge whatsoever. AT-archers helping archers. It really is a great idea, get a generator and go hunt anywhere....anywhere near my place!haha! Can't wait until you build it and post some pictures.

Actually, I saw a show on the history channel about the history of butchers and one guy had a huge enclosed trailer with every accessory needed. He was a pro and went from farm to farm and butchered whatever they had raised for butchering(cattle, hogs, sheep). Then the customer got their own meat back right on the spot, so there was no risk of getting someone else's meat.

After hunting season, you could have a career in butchering with the right trailer or just park it at my place. Just kidding, it's a great idea.


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## DXTBIKER

I saw one like this at bear camp. It was made out of a small hard side camper. Looked like it worked good. Had 3 black bear in it, none were mine


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## Maxtor

joessmokin said:


> I did have an issue when I started my system up. My AC frooze over and all I can figure is that the sensor that went into the AC fins did not have a good contact. After turning the AC off and letting the AC defrost the system worked great again.


 I had the same issue with mine last year and never did get it figured out. Maybe I'll double check the sensor but I thought I had it in there good


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## joessmokin

phantom1 said:


> joessmokin, I love the irony in that picture: a chest freezer in the walk in cooler! I used to think just putting a bunch of ice inside the deer after field dressing it was advanced. Not that anyone gets carried away here on AT. We are all very reasonable hunters and archers. There is no way we would ever get too involved with a project related to our "hobby".....and I'm proud of that, proud of everyone here. Just reasonable people doing reasonable things.


Phantom1, I needed a step stool to get to the fans, well it does work for that too. I have out grown my curent garage so its a great palce for it.


----------



## joessmokin

Maxtor said:


> I had the same issue with mine last year and never did get it figured out. Maybe I'll double check the sensor but I thought I had it in there good


Maxtor, I have a 2011 modle I think and tried to find my instruction and for the life of me I can't find them. I looked on line and they have a newer modle and the youtube instulations shows how to instale but on the last setting on the unit is said to keep at factory setting; not sure what that is. I was thinking about calling customer service you might want to do the same.


----------



## joessmokin

joaxe said:


> Cool (pun intended)! Joe, on my LG, I inserted the temp sensor into the fins and used 2 really small slotted screwdrivers to "close" the fins around the sensor. Then, as an extra measure, wire-tied the sensor wire with some "strain relief" right to the frame of the LG. I'll see if I can get a pic of it for you.
> 
> Joe


Joe, Glad I am not the only one with this issue, thanks for the tips, and maybe we can help others with there issues with this system. We need to keep this thread rolling.

I have always heard good reports from Coolbot customer service so folks don't be scared to call and post what you have found out.


----------



## Maxtor

This is one thing posted on their site to try:
***Ice must be MELTED completely before trying these steps.(Melts faster in FAN ONLY mode, or use hair dryer)

a) Make sure your A/C fan is on HIGH. Make sure your A/C is in Cool mode, not Energy Saver.

b) Make sure the tip of the FROST SENSOR (the long wire coming out the top of the CoolBot) is stuck INTO THE FINS of the air conditioner 1/3rd inch. Not sitting next to the fins or stuck in the clip on the fins.

c) After the ice melts, watch your a/c unit as it's cooling. Where does frost FIRST start to form? Reposition the frost sensor so it is stuck in near where you see the white frost FIRST forming. While it's usually in the bottom center, some a/c units are different, so you'll have to reposition it to that area.

d) After trying steps a-c, try increasing the FIN setting. Press the RIGHT arrow button until the light behind the word FINS comes on. That's the current temperature of your fins. Now, press the CHECK button. The default is 0. Press the right arrow button to increase it to 1 or 2. Keep going up until the problem is solved. (This will take several tries with an hour or so in between tries. Sort of annoying, but you should only have to do this once.)*


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## joessmokin

Great info.

I just check my cooler and we are at a cool 37 degrees inside and its humid and 80 outside so I am sure the doe is chilling in the cooler just fine.


----------



## 5Rangers

phantom1 said:


> 5Rangers, great idea on the enclosed trailer! And....you can park it at my place to get it out of your way. No charge whatsoever. AT-archers helping archers. It really is a great idea, get a generator and go hunt anywhere....anywhere near my place!haha! Can't wait until you build it and post some pictures.
> 
> Actually, I saw a show on the history channel about the history of butchers and one guy had a huge enclosed trailer with every accessory needed. He was a pro and went from farm to farm and butchered whatever they had raised for butchering(cattle, hogs, sheep). Then the customer got their own meat back right on the spot, so there was no risk of getting someone else's meat.
> 
> After hunting season, you could have a career in butchering with the right trailer or just park it at my place. Just kidding, it's a great idea.


If a guy had a big enough trailer he could go around from hunting camp to hunting camp cooling game for guys, even deliver to the processor. For a fee.. Wouldn't get much hunting done though.

Haha,,, yea,, ok... I will be needing a place to park it. I found a guy down in Tx that sells custom tandem enclosed trailers. Really Really nice, it has an enclosed propane powered Honda Generator up front with 2 20 gallon bottles, he said it will hold 35* 24/7.. $20K... Anyone wants to know who.. PM me..

I'm think I could get my own used enclosed, 5x10, gut it, I know a guy that sprays R gazillion foam,, I'll pay him to spray it, panel, spray bed liner in it, mount the AC and the Coldbot .... DONE... I could use it to haul stuff out to the lease and haul deer back. If I want to add a generator, I could do that too.


----------



## hooiserarcher

phantom1 said:


> Sounds great! Are you going to post some pictures for us to slobber over? It sounds like you built it right with plenty of btu's and expensive foam insulation. Can you say how much you have in it or is your wife nearby?


I am actually not going to be home until the weekend for pics I can however give a little more insight on the construction of the cooler. 
I framed the cooler @ 9' by 9' by 9' outside diameter using 2x4 studs 2x8 rafters and 4 layers of 3/4" tounge and groove plywood with a layer of 1" foamboard sandwiched between the 2cd and 3rd and 3rd and 4th layer. 
On the exterior I used 7/16 osb then a layer of bubble wrap followed by pole barn metal.
For insulation I found some 4×8×2 3/4" foam and I cut one layer to fit tightly in between each stud. I then great stuffed and or caulked any cracks. I then added another layer of the 2 3/4" foamboard horizontally accross the walls making sure to caulk and greatstuff any gaps and tape seams. 
For the ceiling I used r 30 bat insulation followed by 2×6 screwed to the underside of trusses. Then 2 3/4" foamboard under that. For the floor I added a layer of 2 3/4" foam insulation followed by 3/4' plywood. 
Then a layer of 7/16" osb to cover the insulation on walls and ceiling. 
I then caulked all cracks in the osb and applied 2 coats of bins 123 primer followed by 2 coats of olympic exterior white. 
I have painted osb using this system for years on building pole barns and it makes for an extremely durable and washable surface. 
The floor is not done yet but will be finished with vynil composite tile vct.
For the door I bought an exterior steel door, made it swing in to the cooler and glued foamboard to the interior and used garage door weather stripping on the exterior.
The walls are well over 7" thick with the floor and ceiling around 10" thick. I installed two receptacles and a motion dectecting light in the cooler for hands free activation. 
I put a 15,000 btu lg a/c paired with a coolbot and let me tell you she gets cold fast and stays cold! 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2


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## hooiserarcher

A few exterior pics I had. I made it match the man cave in the background.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2


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## Maxtor

Very nice hooiser


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## hooiserarcher

Maxtor said:


> Very nice hooiser


Thank you sir. It was a lot of work but well worth it in my opinion.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2


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## bdman

cant wait to start on mine!!! we are moving into a new house and it has an old shed out back, all ready have the winch and the a/c at the old house! but i dont think i will be able to get it done this year! will be using thsi thread to make changes to my ideas that i have!

very nice coolers in here too!


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## joessmokin

Looks great another happy hunter that does not have to worry about where they wil put therer kill after they get it. Oh and they a cheap to run and you can make some money with them also just ask me :wink:



hooiserarcher said:


> A few exterior pics I had. I made it match the man cave in the background.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Maxtor

Just curious from those that have their own cooler (because you hear different things) 

Do you guys hang your deer for days with the hide ON or OFF?? Is there an advantage to one over the other?


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> Just curious from those that have their own cooler (because you hear different things)
> 
> Do you guys hang your deer for days with the hide ON or OFF?? Is there an advantage to one over the other?


I'd like to know this, too! Good question, Maxtor! Our early season starts next Saturday.

Joe


----------



## joaxe

hooiserarcher said:


> Thank you sir. It was a lot of work but well worth it in my opinion.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2


Simply awesome, Hooiser!

:thumbs_up

Joe


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## johnstde

Damn! I'd love to have deer walk-in fridge! How do you get them to walk-in?


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## phantom1

Hoosier, you nailed it dude! That looks great and your written description of the details involved in building it are awesome. I got exhausted just imagining all you did. Great attention to detail! Thanks for sharing...


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## phantom1

5Rangers, your idea sounds great. I hope you build it and post pictures. It will be the only one on wheels that I know of here on AT.


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## joessmokin

joaxe said:


> I'd like to know this, too! Good question, Maxtor! Our early season starts next Saturday.
> 
> Joe


I hang my deer with skin on now. Our deer in the south do not have enough fat on them and the meat starts to dry out if you take the skin off. I have hung mine up to two weeks and they are very tender then.

Joe


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## hooiserarcher

Yes! Skin on is the way to go. Wait about 8 to 14 days @ 34-37 degrees and you will have some delicious eating. I actually attended a venison seminar last night put on by purdue university and I highly recommend anyone that processes their game to go. 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2


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## phantom1

hooiserarcher said:


> Yes! Skin on is the way to go. Wait about 8 to 14 days @ 34-37 degrees and you will have some delicious eating. I actually attended a venison seminar last night put on by purdue university and I highly recommend anyone that processes their game to go.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2



Hoosier, how did you find out about that seminar and are there more? One of the extension agents mentioned something about those back in the spring. I think he was from Rush County...maybe Osborne was his last name? Very knowledgeable guy.


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## hooiserarcher

Go to purdue university website and search venison seminar. You should be able to find out the next dates and locations. Very informative not to mention the venison dinner they serve is amazing.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2


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## phantom1

Yep, that's the one with the great dinner. The extension agent was one of the guys putting it all together and harvesting enough deer with depridation permits was quite a challenge some years. The deer didn't seem to understand that there was a deadline to meet. I will have to attend one of those, it sounds great. Thanks!


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## IndyBassin

must have been at the Bass Pro Shops 

My son and I enjoyed it as well.


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## hooiserarcher

IndyBassin said:


> must have been at the Bass Pro Shops
> 
> My son and I enjoyed it as well.


Same guys, but I was actually at the one in warrick county 4h grounds the night before.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2


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## joaxe

joaxe said:


> Cool (pun intended)! Joe, on my LG, I inserted the temp sensor into the fins and used 2 really small slotted screwdrivers to "close" the fins around the sensor. Then, as an extra measure, wire-tied the sensor wire with some "strain relief" right to the frame of the LG. I'll see if I can get a pic of it for you.
> 
> Joe


Joe,

Here's that pic I promised showing the temp. sensor inserted into the fins. Note the black wire tie for "strain relief".









Joe


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## hooiserarcher

Good idea! I am absolutely loving my cooler. 

sent from my rotary phone


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## joessmokin

Thanks Joe

Now that is has cooled down some mine is holding at 34 degrees.


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## phantom1

I am seeing 1 year warranties on the LG's air conditioners at Home Depot and CompactApllicance.com

LG site shows similar units with 5 year warranties for the same price....what's up with that? Obviously, I want the 5 year warranty, but am having a little trouble finding those models.

Can you guys help me? I'm ready to drop the big bucks and pray the money for the Coolbot comes along. Maybe all I need for the fall and winter will be the A/C.


----------



## Maxtor

phantom1 said:


> I'm ready to drop the big bucks and pray the money for the Coolbot comes along. Maybe all I need for the fall and winter will be the A/C.


 The problem is, without the Coolbot, your A/C unit will not run the low temps that are required for the cooler. The Coolbot "over rides" (so to speak) the A/C unit settings so that it can keep your cooler in the 44 degree range


----------



## joaxe

phantom1 said:


> I am seeing 1 year warranties on the LG's air conditioners at Home Depot and CompactApllicance.com
> 
> LG site shows similar units with 5 year warranties for the same price....what's up with that? Obviously, I want the 5 year warranty, but am having a little trouble finding those models.
> 
> Can you guys help me? I'm ready to drop the big bucks and pray the money for the Coolbot comes along. Maybe all I need for the fall and winter will be the A/C.


Greg,

Sent you some PMs.

Joe


----------



## phantom1

Joe, thanks so much. I am going to check those sites out now.

Maxtor, your point is well taken. The Coolbot will be added when the cash allows it. In the meantime, if the AC can keep it close to 50 degrees around the deer, it should buy me a little time.


----------



## hooiserarcher

phantom1 said:


> Joe, thanks so much. I am going to check those sites out now.
> 
> Maxtor, your point is well taken. The Coolbot will be added when the cash allows it. In the meantime, if the AC can keep it close to 50 degrees around the deer, it should buy me a little time.


Not trying to rain on your parade at all but bacteria grows @ 40° keeping a deer anything past 36 hours with temps above 39° is a gamble I am not willing to take. 

sent from my rotary phone


----------



## phantom1

OK, thanks for the technical details hoosier. I may have to use the old standby of ice in the cavity. Not high tech, but it has worked for years. With the AC, the ice will at least last longer until Coolbot money comes through.


----------



## hooiserarcher

Yes sir. I think you will be fine. Just wait until you get your coolbot. You will think you have struck gold

sent from my rotary phone


----------



## joaxe

hooiserarcher said:


> Yes sir. I think you will be fine. Just wait until you get your coolbot. You will think you have struck gold
> 
> sent from my rotary phone


Uhhh...you must mean "struck *cold*". :cocktail:

Joe


----------



## hooiserarcher

Definitely. Cold gold!!

sent from my rotary phone


----------



## phantom1

I found a deal on two 5000 btu Haier digital AC's, but I sure don't want to buy two Coolbots's to save on AC cost!haha! Anyone ever hook two AC's to a Coolbot? Don't think it's possible without modifying the Coolbot and I am not going down that road. 

I talked with Ron at Coolbot a few weeks ago and he said GE & Haier brands can be added to the recommended brands of AC's that will work for our walk in fridge plans. Those are the newer digital ones around 6500btu and up. Good to know for folks looking for deals late in the cooling season.


----------



## joessmokin

Got a call last night from a friend that needed to put a deer in the cooler that's # 2 in the cooler this year and I have not even been in the woods yet. But the cooler is making money for me.


----------



## phantom1

joessmokin said:


> Got a call last night from a friend that needed to put a deer in the cooler that's # 2 in the cooler this year and I have not even been in the woods yet. But the cooler is making money for me.


How much do you charge for people using your cooler? Is it per deer, per day, or unlimited useage(sounds like a cell phone package!) per season, and then of course unlimited lifetime useage(like a lifetime hunting license in our state).

I am so glad you posted you were making money on your cooler, after so much investment. I started wondering how I would handle mine, if I ever finish it....money, money, money.


----------



## joessmokin

I am not looking for money for the investment but more for my time and electrical bill. I built mine for myself but it got bigger than what I needed so what the heck. I go with what the locals are going with wich is about $6.00 a day which is what I charge. But since I am on th TN KY border I started mine as soon as I got a call and keep it running all season long so I get word of mouth out and they can call me any time and I suport. So if some one finds one late I take care of them where a business is closed. FYI I make sure a tag is on every deer to CYA. In KY they have to call there kill in; I have a 3X5 card on KY deer with Hunters Lic #, Kill # , name and there phone number. Tn have papper tags so no issues. Make sure you CYA if your keeping other deer in your cooler and people find out about your cooler. FYI.


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## phantom1

That is a very generous deal you are offering. Wish you would just move near me and bring your cooler!lol I don't think you will get your money back anytime soon, but you are very kind. Oh yeah, making sure each deer is legal would be necessary. I'm not sure $6 is worth the trouble, maybe if you were home all the time and didn't sleep! Very kind, good for you!


----------



## Kevin85

Maxtor- Do you have a supply list by any chance for the lumber that you used? For example, how many sheets of particle board did you use and how many 2x4's? Anything else I should add to my list if I were to build one exactly like yours? Anything you would do differently?

Thanks,
Kevin


----------



## Maxtor

Kevin85 said:


> Maxtor- Do you have a supply list by any chance for the lumber that you used? For example, how many sheets of particle board did you use and how many 2x4's? Anything else I should add to my list if I were to build one exactly like yours? Anything you would do differently?
> 
> Thanks,
> Kevin


 No, sorry bud I don't have a supply list. As far as sheets of particle board, I don't think it was any more then 3, 4 at the very most. If I was to do anything different, I wouldn't use the pink fiberglass insulation in the walls/ceiling. Although it works great, I just think the extra money for the sheets of insulation may have worked better.


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## Kevin85

Thanks for the response. I would like to attempt this project but have limited carpentry skills. Using your pictures, I was hoping to figure out the measurements and how to put it together. I'll do my best. I had figured out about 9 sheets of particle board, taking into account both inside and outside. I guess my measurements are off!


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## joaxe

Kevin85 said:


> Thanks for the response. I would like to attempt this project but have limited carpentry skills. Using your pictures, I was hoping to figure out the measurements and how to put it together. I'll do my best. I had figured out about 9 sheets of particle board, taking into account both inside and outside. I guess my measurements are off!


Get yourself a basic carpentry book at the library or bookstore. Everything you need is in there. I, too, have limited skills but managed to make a 6x8 cooler (sure, it's not perfectly square...its close...but I'm not living in it!). If you figure out what size you want and factor in the thickness of the rigid insulation, you can easily determine the amount of 2 x 4 boards and sheathing needed (figure 16" on center between studs). Also, use deck screws for assembling the walls and ceiling so you can take it apart if you ever need to. For the walls, look into making "California corners" to maximize insulation spacing and corner strength.

Joe


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## Kevin85

Joaxe- Will do. I am trying to figure out how to work with full 4x8 sheets of OSB or plywood to have the least about of waste/most amount of room. If I build the the 3 walls and door all the same(minus the hole for the AC), I assume my roof will not be a simple 4x4 square??


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## b0w_bender

I was a bit concerned about the hang times and temperatures that were mentioned above. It was my understanding that the aging process was the work of enzymes that naturally occur in the muscle tissue breaking it down and improving flavor and tenderness. The hang times generally speaking were 7 to 10 days as being plenty. These enzymes only work at temperatures between 33 and 39 degrees. Temperatures that are lower and the meet freezes and the chemical process stops. Hanging under temperatures that are higher allows bacteria to begin to spoil the meat. But this was just my recollection from conversation I had with a meat cutter who had a graduate degree from Cornell university. Since my recollection is often flawed I thought perhaps I should go look it up. What I found was a whole lot of crap based on hearsay and anecdotal evidence. But below are the articles that appear to have some basis in fact derived from scientific testing. 

http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G2209

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/nutrition/DJ0856.html

http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/other/recipes/2006/01/deer-hang-time

Having a walk in cooler should allow you to hang the meat safely and allow it to age properly so long as you get the temperatures in that golden zone of 32-39 degrees. I think this is a fantastic thread, to everyone who has contributed thanks for the awesome info!


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## phantom1

This thread is too good to just sit around. I keep learning more as new posts are added.


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## Maxtor

I've got a Wild Game Field Care dvd from Gold Medal Master Chef Milos Cihelka and goes into really good discussion about aging your meat. Says to hang it for at least a week and make sure it's right in that 34/38 degree mark.


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> I've got a Wild Game Field Care dvd from Gold Medal Master Chef Milos Cihelka and goes into really good discussion about aging your meat. Says to hang it for at least a week and make sure it's right in that 34/38 degree mark.


I've got the same DVD! I love the way he describes making the "hot oil" to keep flies off the meat without affecting the meat flavor.

Joe


----------



## phantom1

I've never been sure if aging venison really made much difference. I have loved it either way and wasn't sure it mattered. Have you guys proved it to yourselves? Freezing it fresh verses aged a week or more and then freezing? Where did you get the dvd?


----------



## Maxtor

phantom1 said:


> I've never been sure if aging venison really made much difference. I have loved it either way and wasn't sure it mattered. Have you guys proved it to yourselves? Freezing it fresh verses aged a week or more and then freezing? Where did you get the dvd?


 No, can't say as I'm convinced it makes a difference or at least proven it does. But one thing for sure is that by having it hanging in my fridge, I can butcher it little at a time so I don't have to spend hours butchering the whole thing all at once....... 

My buddie had the dvd so I made a "back up copy"


----------



## joessmokin

Well I have 3 hanging in my walk in cooler now at $6 a day per deer I am doing good as well as I just got my electric bill for the month and it was only $7 higher than last month. Maybe one day this year I will hang a deer in my own cooler:embara:


----------



## Maxtor

joessmokin said:


> Well I have 3 hanging in my walk in cooler now at $6 a day per deer I am doing good as well as I just got my electric bill for the month and it was only $7 higher than last month. Maybe one day this year I will hang a deer in my own cooler:embara:


 That's about how it worked for my buddie too, always hanging everyone else's deer except he always did it for free. But then, like always, people took advantage of it, were showing up with the deer still needing cleaned and everything, expecting him to help them. So he finally said, that's enough, only hanging his own now. My season starts Monday so hoping to kick mine into action real soon


----------



## Maxtor

Well, put an insulated floor in my fridge instead of just the concrete garage floor. Should make a huge difference I would think. Still haven't come up with a rail system yet, been so busy with everything else but it's still in my plans. Gave the fridge a test run today and installed a new temperature sensor in it. All set now and ready for deer season which starts this Monday. Looking forward to putting a deer in the fridge (hopefully one I get with my new crossbow  )


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> Well, put an insulated floor in my fridge instead of just the concrete garage floor. Should make a huge difference I would think. Still haven't come up with a rail system yet, been so busy with everything else but it's still in my plans. Gave the fridge a test run today and installed a new temperature sensor in it. All set now and ready for deer season which starts this Monday. Looking forward to putting a deer in the fridge (hopefully one I get with my new crossbow  )


Maxtor, the insulated floor definitely helps (helped me!) with cooling and maintaining the temperature inside the cooler. I think that the concrete slab absorbs too much cold air until it stabilizes. Probably wouldn't be an issue when cold temps arrive but the insulation materials didn't add too much more to my project (probably $60).

Joe


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## joessmokin

Got another one in the cooler, not mine but at least the cooler is getting used and making some $ on the side.


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## hooiserarcher

Two of em hanging in cooler! Been holding temps steady @ 35-36° awesome. Love the coolbot.

sent from my rotary phone


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## phantom1

Time to use those homemade coolers. Hope they are working well and almost full of meat.


----------



## Uncle Jeff

I didnt read all 15 pages of this yet but I have a question. Does the AC you are using run constantly? or does it eventually kick off?


----------



## joessmokin

The Coolbot tells the AC when to cycle on and off when the temp gauge in the AC in the fins starts to freeze up. Check out the coolbot web site.


----------



## joessmokin

I got another one in the cooler. It's a friends of mine. One of these days I will get around to putting one in there of my own.


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## phantom1

Joe, just send it up to me until you really need it!!! I can "store" it for you....no charge whatsoever!


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## joessmokin

Man all my friends are having a great year got another doe in the cooler tonight, man I need to get into the woods and get one.


----------



## deergoneit

As a refrigeration tech and owner, I can tell you'd be better off with a mech refrigeration stat and defrost timer.
And it should not take a real tech four weekends to build a prefab box. 
Any question's, feel free to pm me!

sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note


----------



## Maxtor

deergoneit said:


> As a refrigeration tech and owner, I can tell you'd be better off with a mech refrigeration stat and defrost timer.
> And it should not take a real tech four weekends to build a prefab box.
> Any question's, feel free to pm me!
> 
> sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note


 And where might one purchase one of these defrost timers? You talking something like THIS ?
Be interested in hearing how something like this would be set up


----------



## joaxe

joessmokin said:


> Man all my friends are having a great year got another doe in the cooler tonight, man I need to get into the woods and get one.


Me, too!!! Been in the woods several times...seeing lots of deer...just not able to "close the deal" yet!



Joe


----------



## Maxtor

joaxe said:


> Me, too!!! Been in the woods several times...seeing lots of deer...just not able to "close the deal" yet!
> 
> 
> 
> Joe


 I know the feeling  Wife had a buck walk right beside her the other day but it was still just a bit too dark for her to shoot. Another 10 minutes and it would have been meat in the freezer


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## Samsonite

Almost have our walk in cooler for our deer lease done thanks in part to all the great ideas in this thread.
6'x8'X 10' tall

Started with 2X6 walls and base. The base is sheathed on both sides of the 2X6" with 1/2" CDX. 









The floor and walls are insulated with a piece of 2" and 3" styrofoam. We used the same stuff that is used in E.I.F.S. applications. We used Tyvek on the outside walls.

















We used 2X12"s for the roof framing with 1/2" coolply decking. The actual roofing is EPDM with all the necessary flashings to get a 20 year warranty! Next we put down pond liner from the floor to about 3 feet up the walls. Then we laid 3/8" hardi-board on top to make sure the pond liner isn't penetrated. now we can wash the cooler out without getting any any of the framing wet.









Instead of the coolbot I used the Johnson A419 controller. Concept is the same except cheaper but takes little more wiring skill( still not hard by any means). Stick the temp probe in the middle of the coil and set the cutoff temp at 32F. Set the "cut in" temp at 39F and the Anti-start feature at 3 minutes, which is the mininum amount of time my A/C unit takes to be able to restart. That way if the coil reaches 39F before 3 minutes is up, it wont restart ( prevents hard starting ) . Hard wire the fan so it is always on, that way it defrosts the coil when the unit cycles off. We fired her up for the first time yesterday, it was about 80F outside at about 4:00 in the afternoon and in the Texas sun. Window unit is a 17,500 BTU (220V) Whirlpool R22 coolant made in 2001. It took about an hour to get to 42F and then another 30 minutes to get to 37F. It fluctuated perfectly between 37F-39F. We opened the door for 10 minutes after it reached operating temperature and the shut the door. The unit went from the high 60s back to 37F in about 20 minutes so there was a lot of residual heat in the the cooler itself prior to the first start.










So for those on a budget and a little wiring knowledge, you can have the same function as a coolbot for less than 1/3 the price.


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## joaxe

Samsonite,

Now there's a cooler! Excellent job!

"So for those on a budget and a little wiring knowledge, you can have the same function as a coolbot for less than 1/3 the price."

The only caveat to installing a Johnson controller is that you have to modify the AC unit wiring, correct?...which would void any warranty the unit might have. My LG has a 5-year and I wasn't about to void that...plus, I had the extra cash for the Coolbot (which also works perfectly!).

Joe


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## Samsonite

Your not permanently modifying the wiring. Your just unplugging and bypassing the thermostat that comes on the unit. If your unit died and was still under warranty, you would just plug them back in to the factory thermostat and no one would no the difference. It definitely isn't a permanent modification. Coolbot is the pain free way though for sure.


----------



## joaxe

Samsonite said:


> Your not permanently modifying the wiring. Your just unplugging and bypassing the thermostat that comes on the unit. If your unit died and was still under warranty, you would just plug them back in to the factory thermostat and no one would no the difference. It definitely isn't a permanent modification. Coolbot is the pain free way though for sure.


Good info, Samsonite! Thanks for the clarification. Wonder if the Ranco (similar) controller also doesn't modify wiring of the AC unit. Good options for those on a tight budget.

Joe


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## joessmokin

Nice looking cooler Samsonite glad you were able to fine a way to make it cheaper. You will enjoy it even if it's just to cool of in JK.


----------



## Samsonite

The ranco is different in that there is no power plug coming out of it to plug the A/C into. You would have to a hard wire the air conditioner wires into it. The johnson allows you to just plug the A/C power cord into it. You could attach an appliance cord with a female end to the Ranco and it would be the same thing as the Johnson.


----------



## joaxe

Samsonite said:


> The ranco is different in that there is no power plug coming out of it to plug the A/C into. You would have to a hard wire the air conditioner wires into it. The johnson allows you to just plug the A/C power cord into it. You could attach an appliance cord with a female end to the Ranco and it would be the same thing as the Johnson.


Thanks again for that info, "cool" cat! :wink:

Joe


----------



## joessmokin

My friends son got this buck on a youth hunt this weekend the neck is huge it 31.5"


----------



## joessmokin

Well I currently have 11 deer in the cooler none mine  But the cool is staying at 37 degrees and it has got to the mid 70's .


----------



## Maxtor

joessmokin said:


> View attachment 1517424
> 
> Well I currently have 11 deer in the cooler none mine  But the cool is staying at 37 degrees and it has got to the mid 70's .


 Good god man, that's sickening......lol Don't have any hanging in my fridge yet either. Wife had a shot at a buck but missed judged yardage and shot under him.  Back out this week and try some more


----------



## phantom1

Goodness gracious that's alot of deer! You must be the most popular guy around. I don't think I would get anything else done with a cooler that nice being public knowledge. Now if I build one, no one can know or the price to store would be very high. It's the pre-rut, my buddies would just have to understand, I'm busy.


----------



## C Svach

joessmokin said:


> View attachment 1517424
> 
> Well I currently have 11 deer in the cooler none mine  But the cool is staying at 37 degrees and it has got to the mid 70's .


Thats awsome. Careful about the donations you receive, they will try to find a way to tax you on it, as a self employed buisness, but then you can right off the materials and electric claiming a loss. LOL


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## hooiserarcher

I have 2 does hanging and 2 bucks laying on the floor of mine. Both bucks and one of the does are mine.

sent from my rotary phone


----------



## hooiserarcher

sent from my rotary phone


----------



## C Svach

Awsome Hooisier looks like a good year!


----------



## joaxe

Well...my "cool" peeps, I FINALLY am able to use my cooler! 

Shot this guy last Wednesday afternoon during the fizzled-out nor'easter that was supposed to hit our area. It was sleeting/lightly snowing and he presented a 20-yard broadside shot. Got him in the cooler that evening. The Coolbot is doing its thing and keeping Bucky at a nice, comfortable 37 degress F continuously! Awesome product!

















...got 3 more gambrels to fill now!

Joe


----------



## joessmokin

Congrads Joe nice looking buck. 
My final count was 12 and I ran out of rollers. I think I can fit more than 20 in my cooler but I only have 12 roller systems. The roller systems are $20 a piece and the gambrels are $5 a piece. So any donations I get are going to get more supplies.


----------



## lovetohunt93

Lots of good coolers!


----------



## joaxe

The idea of using a winch or hoist didn't even figure into my plans. I tried to setup a pulley system but the rope I used was too thin and kept getting caught in the side of the pulley. I had to enlist my neighbor to stand up on a step stool while I bear-hugged the carcass and lifted it up to the hook. He guided the gambrel onto the stainless steel hook. What a PITA that was! Time to rethink how to get them hanging...

Joe


----------



## joessmokin

Joe even with my winch system I found it hard to hang my deer on my trolley system due to the winch not being higher than the trolley. I built some long "S" brackets out of rebar to hang from the trolley system to the gambrels. This made hanging the deer a lot easier.


----------



## joaxe

"Cool" peeps,

Quick question for you all: this will be the first time that I am trying processing and will be the nice icing (pun intended) on the cake after all of the work investing in and building the cooler. My buck has been hanging for 11 days in 37-38 degrees F in the cooler just because I haven't managed to get to skinning/processing. Beyond the issue of the exposed meat drying out on the surface, should I be OK? I tink my processor hangs them for that long (or longer) as he gets to every deer.

My father-in-law is coming over to help and I've reviewed a bunch of DVDs and books on the subject. I was just nervous getting started because I didn't want to start and have to stop because I forgot or needed something. C'mon, help this "newbie" out! Thanks!

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

Whether or not you'll be okay I'm not really sure. I've only started processing my own the last few years so I'll let one of the guys that have been doing it a while answer that.

What i do sometimes when it comes to processing, because time can be an issue is, I'll do a quarter at a time. Like maybe do a back leg a day, then front legs, etc. Trust me, I was nervous the first time as well because like you said, you're not sure you have everything and you don't wanna screw it up.

@Joesmokin - I DEFINITELY need to come up with a better game plan for hanging them in the fridge. I'll post a pic later but I shot a 7 point last night and two of us had a hell of a time lifting him to hang him. Because of my garage setup, my winch isn't inline with the fridge door so it makes it difficult to use the winch in helping with the actual hanging. We tried using the winch to assist us last night and now the cable is all wound tight where it shouldn't be  Have to design some sort of track system or something


----------



## hooiserarcher

joaxe said:


> "Cool" peeps,
> 
> Quick question for you all: this will be the first time that I am trying processing and will be the nice icing (pun intended) on the cake after all of the work investing in and building the cooler. My buck has been hanging for 11 days in 37-38 degrees F in the cooler just because I haven't managed to get to skinning/processing. Beyond the issue of the exposed meat drying out on the surface, should I be OK? I tink my processor hangs them for that long (or longer) as he gets to every deer.
> 
> My father-in-law is coming over to help and I've reviewed a bunch of DVDs and books on the subject. I was just nervous getting started because I didn't want to start and have to stop because I forgot or needed something. C'mon, help this "newbie" out! Thanks!
> 
> Joe


Joe you are better off hanging with the skin on. Simply for the fact of protecting the meat from drying out. I personally hang my deer @ 35-36° for 11 - 14 days and that formula works perfect for me. 
Just butchered 3 more this week and the meat quality is outstanding!!!! To the people who say aging doesn't make a difference you have obviously never aged them properly in a controlled environment. 

sent from my rotary phone


----------



## joaxe

hooiserarcher said:


> Joe you are better off hanging with the skin on. Simply for the fact of protecting the meat from drying out. I personally hang my deer @ 35-36° for 11 - 14 days and that formula works perfect for me.
> Just butchered 3 more this week and the meat quality is outstanding!!!! To the people who say aging doesn't make a difference you have obviously never aged them properly in a controlled environment.
> 
> sent from my rotary phone


"Cool"... :shade:

I've kept the hide on. I just noticed that the surface of the hindquarters is dried out where they are exposed just past the pelvic bone. I was reviewing the following resources:

1. Deer Processing 101 DVD (hosted by Brad Lockwood)
2. The Ultimate Deer Processing Video (with Rick Gollinger - "The Outdoor Chef")
3. The "Gut It, Cut It and Cook It" book

When my FIL gets here...the fun begins! 

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

So here's my deer hanging in my fridge, wish I would have made my fridge 1 or 2 feet taller I think


----------



## mejer

Joaxe,
If you watched the DVD with Brad Lockwood. You will be fine Before I watched this DVD I butchered my deer. Now I process them. Brad breaks it down and even names the cuts of meat for you. Great learning aid. Now mabe for next year I can get my cooler built.


----------



## Maxtor

This is another very good video: Wild Game Field Care dvd from Gold Medal Master Chef Milos Cihelka


----------



## joessmokin

Well I finally got one this year but it's not a bow kill. 9pts, 18" spred, and a 27" neck.
As far a buchering goes I leave the skin on let it have for 10-14 day. I take the back straps out first, then the front shoulders ( I leave them hole a put them in a crock pot for stew) then take the tender loins out then I cut the back bone off. I then split the hind quarter. The hind quarters you can do a lot with. You can not really screw anything up just go for it.
Height of coolers it a big part as some are seeing. I have a 1' footer and 8' walls and it's still not as tall as I would like due to the winch being the same height as the rail system. My "S" hangers have to be atleast 8" to be able to hang deer easy on my system. 
A friend made a recomendation to close my rail system in and have a complete oval which is what I think will be my spring project. It will make it a lot easier to get to deer down once they are hung up and I have a bunch in there.


----------



## bowhntng4evr

Great coolers. Personally I purchased a cooler/freezer from a local store who was remodeling. It has 30 cubic ft. of space. But the cool part is that it has two compressors which keep it from 45°f to -15°f. So I can cool the deer and age it. Then, I cut and process it and then freeze it in the same unit. I only paid $200.


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> This is another very good video: Wild Game Field Care dvd from Gold Medal Master Chef Milos Cihelka


Got that one, too...and a few others.

Joe


----------



## joaxe

Well...I just went ahead and did it. Father-in-law had come over...but wound up falling asleep on the couch! 

After making sure that I had everything, I took my time (a long time!) and skinned the buck. I skinned it and "rough caped" it in case I change my mind and want to have it mounted. At least, if I don't have it mounted (probably not), I got the experience of skinning it for when I do get one done. I made sure there were no holes poked into the hide.

I wiped it down with a warm water and vinegar solution and wrapped it in one of those "cheesecloth" game bags. I also left a pail of water in the cooler to help with humidity control (the AC fan is still on high). The front legs, brisket and neck area was difficult, but doable. I will now do ALL of my deer myself! :shade:

I'll continue with the processing over the next few days.















Joe


----------



## joessmokin

Congrads Joe, They get easier the more you do. An option if you do not want to do a shoulder mount on that deer is to do a european mount. I have done quite a few, takes a little time but it's easy and cheap and they look good when your done I will post a couple for you tonight.


----------



## joaxe

joessmokin said:


> Congrads Joe, They get easier the more you do. An option if you do not want to do a shoulder mount on that deer is to do a european mount. I have done quite a few, takes a little time but it's easy and cheap and they look good when your done I will post a couple for you tonight.


Thanks, Joe!

Joe


----------



## joessmokin

Joe here are a couple of the europeans I have done


----------



## joessmokin

Maxtor here are the photos














As you can see the "S" drops the deer hanger below the winch.


----------



## Maxtor

Ya, I've got some actual S hooks from a butcher shop. I know in my head what I need to come up with, but like you said, the trick part is coming up with something that will hold the weight.


----------



## Maxtor

joaxe said:


> Thanks, Joe!
> 
> Joe


 Hey joe, check out this old thread I remember talking in. It's another option to show off your rack called "flocking", turns out really good

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1055087&highlight=van+****'s

This is one of the ones I've done since then


----------



## joaxe

joessmokin and Maxtor,

Thanks for the pics and cool ideas (there I go with the puns again...). I was also checking out some of the plaque mounts that can be done on a wooden shield with a brass plate for engraving. They look pretty cool, too.

...still haven't gotten to the actual processing yet. The wife and I have a touch of something and I had to watch the kids today.

Thanks again! Time for me to get the "flock' out of here...

Joe


----------



## tazman7

I am selling my freezer if anyone is interested. It is in the classifieds.


----------



## hooiserarcher

I am here to tell you that IF you need any technical or service needs from coolbot. Ron from coolbot will absolutely stand behind his product and be there to help you. Outstanding customer service!

sent from my rotary phone


----------



## joaxe

hooiserarcher said:


> I am here to tell you that IF you need any technical or service needs from coolbot. Ron from coolbot will absolutely stand behind his product and be there to help you. Outstanding customer service!
> 
> sent from my rotary phone


X1000! Ron is the man! He will offer any assistance you need or questions you have about the
Coolbot or building a cooler. Also, remember, if you submit pictures of your cooler showing the
Coolbot installed, he will double the unit's warranty.

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

So I did as you guys suggested and hung my deer for about 10 days WITH the hide on. Have to say, the meat looked a lot nicer, gonna do it that way from now on! Thanks


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> So I did as you guys suggested and hung my deer for about 10 days WITH the hide on. Have to say, the meat looked a lot nicer, gonna do it that way from now on! Thanks


Funny you mention that, Maxtor...I just triple-ground the last of my buck last night (yep...the one I shot November 7th!!!). The meat was a deep red/maroon color and I took my time to get every last bit of silverskin, fat and sinew off of all the meat. Of course, the cooler made that all possible!  We even pressed some burgers from the ground, too! We've had steaks cut from the hindquarters 2 nights ago that were PERFECT!

Late last night (and early this morning), I skinned the top of the head and hand-sawed off the antlers (what a PITA!) for an antler mount rather than a shoulder mount (even though I "rough-caped" the deer when I skinned it). Like you, I will do this all myself from now on. It's part of the whole experience!

Thanks, Maxtor, for starting this thread and thanks to everyone for your advice and comments!

"Cool archers helping cool archers" 

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

joaxe said:


> Funny you mention that, Maxtor...I just triple-ground the last of my buck last night (yep...the one I shot November 7th!!!). The meat was a deep red/maroon color and I took my time to get every last bit of silverskin, fat and sinew off of all the meat. Of course, the cooler made that all possible!  We even pressed some burgers from the ground, too! We've had steaks cut from the hindquarters 2 nights ago that were PERFECT!
> 
> Late last night (and early this morning), I skinned the top of the head and hand-sawed off the antlers (what a PITA!) for an antler mount rather than a shoulder mount (even though I "rough-caped" the deer when I skinned it). Like you, I will do this all myself from now on. It's part of the whole experience!
> 
> Thanks, Maxtor, for starting this thread and thanks to everyone for your advice and comments!
> 
> "Cool archers helping cool archers"
> 
> Joe


 Glad to hear everything went well Joe. It's funny, as I'm processing the deer I'm thinking "what a tedious PITA this is" but it's all worth it in the end because not only do you get to enjoy the meat that much more, you get the satisfaction of knowing you did it all yourself!!


----------



## hooiserarcher

Maxtor said:


> Glad to hear everything went well Joe. It's funny, as I'm processing the deer I'm thinking "what a tedious PITA this is" but it's all worth it in the end because not only do you get to enjoy the meat that much more, you get the satisfaction of knowing you did it all yourself!!


AMEN. The more you do the more proficient you will get at it. Processing will be a lot more enjoyable and a lot less PITB.

sent from my rotary phone


----------



## Maxtor

If everything goes as planned, I should have my tracking system in place for my fridge. Have it all laid out in my head and got most the pieces I need to built it. Just need to do a few welds here, a few bolts there and then some painting. I'll post pics once it's all done (and hopefully operational  )


----------



## INarcher711

My friend and I got our walk in cooler running! Gonna tweak a few things this coming spring (floor, paint, etc.), but it functional for the rest of the season!


----------



## INarcher711

Apparently the pics rotated!


----------



## Viking1204

Wow great thread. Maxtor how tall is your cooler and how much did that Buck of yours weigh, he looked huge in your cooler! We'll be building one of these at our Hunting Camp in South Alabama as soon as hunting season is over or sooner if we get our deer early. We'll definitely be using a lot of the ideas in this thread!


----------



## Maxtor

Viking1204 said:


> Wow great thread. Maxtor how tall is your cooler and how much did that Buck of yours weigh, he looked huge in your cooler! We'll be building one of these at our Hunting Camp in South Alabama as soon as hunting season is over or sooner if we get our deer early. We'll definitely be using a lot of the ideas in this thread!


 It's 6' tall to the ceiling. I'm not sure what the buck weighed, my wife and I plan on getting a scale now so we can weigh our deer, just for our own knowledge. But ya, had me second guessing the size of my fridge once I hung him in there.......lol


----------



## Viking1204

Maxtor said:


> It's 6' tall to the ceiling. I'm not sure what the buck weighed, my wife and I plan on getting a scale now so we can weigh our deer, just for our own knowledge. But ya, had me second guessing the size of my fridge once I hung him in there.......lol


Cool, reconfirms my plans to build ours 8' tall. Works out too as most sheets of wood and insulation are 8'. Not to mention I'm 6'4" tall so a 6 footer would be a little cramped for me to hang deer in!


----------



## Maxtor

Viking1204 said:


> Cool, reconfirms my plans to build ours 8' tall. Works out too as most sheets of wood and insulation are 8'. Not to mention I'm 6'4" tall so a 6 footer would be a little cramped for me to hang deer in!


 Yes, if I were to do mine over I would in fact make it a bit taller. But, these things are learned by trial and error  Aside from that, I'm real happy with the setup


----------



## timbuck72

I think I saw this at one time in this thread, but I am not sure where it is at now. what is the recommended R value of the walls for the walk in coolers? I am getting my hands on some insulated garage doors and am going to make mine out of those. Hopefully I will take some pictures and post them here as I do it.


----------



## Maxtor

timbuck72 said:


> I think I saw this at one time in this thread, but I am not sure where it is at now. what is the recommended R value of the walls for the walk in coolers? I am getting my hands on some insulated garage doors and am going to make mine out of those. Hopefully I will take some pictures and post them here as I do it.


 Copy/paste from the Coolbot website: *"The industry standard for walk-in coolers is 4" of rigid foam insulation. R-values vary based on different kinds of foam and the age of the foam but you should try for at least R20 in your floors, wall and ceiling. Going up to R30 will save even more money especially if you are keeping your cooler at 40 or below. It's probably not financially worth it to insulate above that. With rigid foam insulation vapor barriers aren't necessary."*

For more info, check *HERE*


----------



## timbuck72

Maxtor thanks a ton. The doors are rated for R 9 so 2 inches of foam in addition should do the trick. Got the plans in my head, but just gotta get the doors first to see what I am working with. I am getting them for free from an overhead door place that usually just gets rid of them. I will let you know how it works.


----------



## joaxe

FWIW, my cooler has the interior covered in Dow Super Tuff-R which has an R value of 13 for the 2" foam sheets. In addition, I'm using R-13 insulation in the walls with the vapor barrier to the outside.

For the floor (cooler is on a concrete slab in the garage), I used Owens Corning Foamular 250 (?) 2x8 sheets and covered that with CDX plywood. All seams and gaps were sprayed with Great Stuff foam.

Joe


----------



## joessmokin

OK guys with old man winter here some are not using there cool any more but for me with TN weather you just never know when its going to get warm so mine is still running. How did everyones cooler do this year? Also if you were to build it again what would you do differnt? 
For me here is what I would have done.
1. Made a 2' or 3' footer instead of a 1' so it would be taller total hieght 10' or 11'
2 Made my rail system out of 3 1/2" or 4" I beam so my rollers have more clearance
3 Mad a complet ovale with my rail system and attached to the rafters before putting the insulation and roof on to ensure I hit the rafters or make suports so I did.
4 Sloped my concrete floor more so the water would run out better when cleaing
5 Make it 4' wider for room to walk when deer are hung on both sides.
6 Put a second floor on it to store hunting gear


----------



## Maxtor

I'd have to say as mentioned before, I'd definitely make mine a bit taller, and maybe also a bit wider. For the tracking system, I ended up going with some Box Tracking and wheels and that seems to work pretty good. Next time I'd do that right from the very beginning. Other then that though, I'm happy with mine. I don't hang the numbers of deer that you do Joe so don't need one as big


----------



## joaxe

Before next season, I am going to have to insulate the floor better.

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

joaxe said:


> Before next season, I am going to have to insulate the floor better.
> 
> Joe


 What makes you say that?


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> What makes you say that?


Well, I noticed (while processing the deer just outside of my cooler) that the AC unit compressor cycled several times every hour. When I looked at my electric bill, I figured it increased by about $30 for the month that I used the cooler. I put the floor insulation down rather quickly and didn't caulk the seams when I was done (just spray-foamed them). I can't exactly tell that the cooler added the $30 to the bill but I think I can "tighten up" the floor and maybe the entry door to prevent air leakage.

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

I know mine cycles quite a few times per hour but only runs for seconds when it does. I'll have to ask the wife what kind of change was on the hydro bill


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> I know mine cycles quite a few times per hour but only runs for seconds when it does. I'll have to ask the wife what kind of change was on the hydro bill


Yes, my AC unit did the exact same thing but I think that it ran for anywhere from 45 seconds to just under 2 minutes when it did cycle.

Of course, I think we were also running an electric "fireplace" in the house which probably added to the bill. That's like constantly running a hair dryer... :thumbs_do

In any case, the cooler is awesome and kept my deer nice and chilly for the 3 1/2 weeks that it hung in there! 

Joe


----------



## joaxe

TTT...for any "late-seasoners" out there!

:shade:

Joe


----------



## phantom1

Still enjoying this thread and still dreaming of having one myself. Neat to read, "if I was doing it again". I hope I can learn from you guys and have it tweaked from the beginning. Keep on posting!


----------



## H20fowlkiller

What kind of additional cost have yal noticed to electric bills once it's up and continually running


----------



## Maxtor

H20fowlkiller said:


> What kind of additional cost have yal noticed to electric bills once it's up and continually running


 I never even noticed enough difference worth noting. Was very surprised and pleased at the same time because I thought the electrical bill was going to go through the roof


----------



## Richard1969

I built a controller for my cooler project. Had enough extra parts laying around to build it. 
View attachment 1578706








Just replace t-stat with a freeze stat and put the temp sensor in between coil fins. You will have to run your compressor run wire thru the contactor as shown in diagram.


----------



## Richard1969

Also it has an adjustable timer so you can tweek it to keep coil from freezing up and to keep the compressor from cycling too quickly.


----------



## Richard1969

Another pic.


----------



## Luke M

I was thinking about making one of these large enough to store an entire steer for 2-3 week aging, I however am concerned with useing an air conditioner unit in it due to the removal of moisture from the room and drying the meat out. What might be able to be used in place of an air conditioner to cool down the room and meat? I am looking for something with the ability to add moisture if needed. Thank you for all the good advise in this thread and ideas on how to build one of these!


----------



## joaxe

Luke M said:


> I was thinking about making one of these large enough to store an entire steer for 2-3 week aging, I however am concerned with useing an air conditioner unit in it due to the removal of moisture from the room and drying the meat out. What might be able to be used in place of an air conditioner to cool down the room and meat? I am looking for something with the ability to add moisture if needed. Thank you for all the good advise in this thread and ideas on how to build one of these!


Maybe add some kind of humidifier? The only problem I had with meat drying out was the fact that I skinned my deer and left it hanging for another week and a half as I "processed" it, taking my time. I only had to trim the outer 1/16" or so from the meat and it was fine. Don't know about a beef, though. Can you leave hide on the beef? Most beef processors I've seen have them hanging hide off.

Joe


----------



## Luke M

joaxe said:


> Maybe add some kind of humidifier? The only problem I had with meat drying out was the fact that I skinned my deer and left it hanging for another week and a half as I "processed" it, taking my time. I only had to trim the outer 1/16" or so from the meat and it was fine. Don't know about a beef, though. Can you leave hide on the beef? Most beef processors I've seen have them hanging hide off.
> 
> Joe



Sorry for the delayed post (had surgery on Thursday), with a beef steer you need to skin and hang for a couple of weeks to let the enzyme work on the muscle tissue. It is easiest to skin and halve or quarter, but it needs to be in a more controled enviroment (33-45 degreese with humidity not being removed from the room). Thank you for your input, and I hope this additional information might be helpfull for some ideas you may be able to pass on.


----------



## joaxe

Luke M said:


> Sorry for the delayed post (had surgery on Thursday), with a beef steer you need to skin and hang for a couple of weeks to let the enzyme work on the muscle tissue. It is easiest to skin and halve or quarter, but it needs to be in a more controled enviroment (33-45 degreese with humidity not being removed from the room). Thank you for your input, and I hope this additional information might be helpfull for some ideas you may be able to pass on.


Here's hoping for a speedy recovery!

When I hung my deer for 3 1/2 weeks, I put a pot of water in the cooler room and kept it filled. I also kept the skinned carcass covered with one of those "cheesecloth" game bags. It seemed to help a little but I never measured the humidity levels in the cooler. I thnk dry aging beef needs something like 60-70% humidity and 35-38 degrees (at least, that's what I read on the Internet).

You can wait for someone else to chime in that may have done it or try contacting Ron Khosla at StoreItCold.com (makers of the Coolbot) to see if he has any tips.

Joe


----------



## Luke M

joaxe said:


> Here's hoping for a speedy recovery!
> 
> When I hung my deer for 3 1/2 weeks, I put a pot of water in the cooler room and kept it filled. I also kept the skinned carcass covered with one of those "cheesecloth" game bags. It seemed to help a little but I never measured the humidity levels in the cooler. I thnk dry aging beef needs something like 60-70% humidity and 35-38 degrees (at least, that's what I read on the Internet).
> 
> You can wait for someone else to chime in that may have done it or try contacting Ron Khosla at StoreItCold.com (makers of the Coolbot) to see if he has any tips.
> 
> Joe



Thank you for the info! Yes that is about where beef needs to be (you can go a little higher in temp but more important is to not let it freeze). I will check more into it and check out the the web site you posted!


----------



## ChopperChip

I recently did a Dunkin Donuts tear out and reassmbly in Pensacola,florida. They use a big walkin in freezer and attached walkin in cooler.Well, since the floor plans changed, they sent 3/4 of a new cooler and I only had to use a 1/4 of the existing cooler/freezer. It's a coolpac system. I didn't get the condensors, but i did get floor,walls,roof and door. I can build a 12x8 cooler with what i have left. For those of you who dont know, this is a modular cooler with cam locks. Put the panel in place and lock it with a wrench. I'll post pictures of it asap. I havent assembled it yet, so i will take photos of the process.


----------



## phantom1

Chopper, sounds great, can't wait for pics! ttt.


----------



## phantom1

Just a reminder to those interested in making your own cooler. I am just now starting to see air conditioners going on sale. Last year, I waited too late and could not get one in time for hunting season. Deer depridation season is just a month or so away for you guys that participate in that. Those coolers could really help a lot of needy food kitchens out, even just for holding the deer carcases for a day or two, until a meat locker could get to them. I hope this is the year for me too!!!!


----------



## joaxe

A couple of LG 10,000 BTU A/C units on sale at Home Depot (online and maybe store):

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/203147...talogId=10053&productId=203147364&R=203147364

Joe


----------



## XC-Bowhunter

I know this thread is old, but I just started reading it so I can't help but post! Inline6, you definetly are a talented hardworking bad MF'er thanks for the pics and info. And I will say that that was a ******ed statement.


----------



## Maxtor

Bumping this up because some are looking for it again!!


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> Bumping this up because some are looking for it again!!


X2! Can't wait to put mine into "production" this season!

Joe


----------



## Motrophyhunter

I live in the KC MO area and cannot seem to find the 4" foam insulation anywhere, does anyone in this area know of an outlet?


----------



## joaxe

Motrophyhunter said:


> I live in the KC MO area and cannot seem to find the 4" foam insulation anywhere, does anyone in this area know of an outlet?


You could always use the 2" Dow Super-Tuff R panels that I used for my cooler and just "double up" on them for 4" worth of insulation. Or, if you are just using it during deer season, you can use R-13 roll insulation ("Pink Panther" stuff) in the 2x4 wall/ceiling construction and cover the inside walls with the super Tuff-R panels (exactly what I did and was approved by Ron Khosla at storeitcold.com (makers of the Coolbot)).

PM me for more information...or just read all 18 pages of the thread. 

Hope that helps you and others with a cooler build.

Joe


----------



## Livn-Lg

OK. We hunt in the High Desert side of Oregon and the temp outside can be 100+ on any given day. When I shot my elk last year we were pushiung two hours to get it cleaned, out and to a cooler. Almost lost the meat. After reading this thread I have in mind making a mobile version out of an enclosed trailer. Looking for your insight on what might be good and bad to make it work. Do you think roof units off RV's would work? How much insulation should be used not only on walls and roof but in the Floor with air passing under it? Also what ideas do you have for reinforsing the roof to be able to handle the weight. I would like the ability to hang 2-3 elk if possible. Let me know and thanks in advance for the insight.


----------



## joaxe

Livn-Lg said:


> OK. We hunt in the High Desert side of Oregon and the temp outside can be 100+ on any given day. When I shot my elk last year we were pushiung two hours to get it cleaned, out and to a cooler. Almost lost the meat. After reading this thread I have in mind making a mobile version out of an enclosed trailer. Looking for your insight on what might be good and bad to make it work. Do you think roof units off RV's would work? How much insulation should be used not only on walls and roof but in the Floor with air passing under it? Also what ideas do you have for reinforsing the roof to be able to handle the weight. I would like the ability to hang 2-3 elk if possible. Let me know and thanks in advance for the insight.


Livn-Lg,

This should help with those questions:

http://www.storeitcold.com/coolerconstruction.html

Joe


----------



## joaxe

Update from storeitcold.com:

*Spring 2013 Update on AC Brand recommendations: For years we have pushed LG Air Conditioners as the best brand to use with CoolBots, but I would like to highlight that we have THOUSANDS of people using HAIER branded air conditioners and almost as many people using GE air conditioners. Folks buying HAIER actually have the LOWEST call-in rate. We like all 3 of these brands equally! Buy any one of them [that has a digital display]!*

http://www.storeitcold.com/sizebrand.html

Newegg.com (use promo code AC20 for 20% off until 06/30/2013)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16896741524

Walmart
http://www.walmart.com/ip/16406036?...27152790&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=39983571910&veh=sem

Amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/Haier-ESA410K-000-Room-Conditioner/dp/B004DTWBV0/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Cool!

Joe


----------



## bwhntr7973

tagging.


----------



## joaxe

"Cool" AT Peeps,

Compact Appliance is having an online sale:

http://www.compactappliance.com/on/...ANCE&mtcpromotion=20130710_CA_CLEARANCE_email

BTW, this is where I bought my LG air conditioner for my deer cooler.

Joe


----------



## buckeyboy

have a question, I plan on emptying my 8X8 shed it is made out of cinderblock do I still need 4" of insulation? it also is on a 6" thick cement slab?


----------



## Maxtor

buckeyboy said:


> have a question, I plan on emptying my 8X8 shed it is made out of cinderblock do I still need 4" of insulation? it also is on a 6" thick cement slab?


 Personally, I originally had mine on just a cement floor but I found that the cement allowed the cold to escape more. I ended up putting an insulated floor in mine. I also think (jmo) that the concrete walls would make the a/c unit work harder, longer and more often in order to keep things at the desired temps.


----------



## Dampland

Such a great thread !

I've been wanting to make one of these for my hunting camp. We don't have electricity, so I would have to run mine by generator power, but that should be ok. For us, we just want to keep the meat from spoiling over the weekend, until we can get it to our game processor.

Thanks to all the contributors and their pictures!


----------



## buckeyboy

Just was storing Junk in my 8X8 shed here is a pix from yesterday



Got it all cleaned out and power washed inside today. Next Insulation and floor epoxy.. Pix to follow


Planning on a 12-15 000 LG with the cold bot I thought of the Johnson controls but they don't seem to work as well..

follow along on the build I will keep posting.


----------



## Maxtor

Dampland said:


> Such a great thread !
> 
> I've been wanting to make one of these for my hunting camp. We don't have electricity, so I would have to run mine by generator power, but that should be ok. For us, we just want to keep the meat from spoiling over the weekend, until we can get it to our game processor.
> 
> Thanks to all the contributors and their pictures!


 Believe it or not Dampland, mine is quite portable as well. Doesn't come apart but doesn't take much to lay it down in the back of a truck or an on trailer and haul it and a generator to wherever you need it


----------



## Maxtor

buckeyboy said:


> Just was storing Junk in my 8X8 shed here is a pix from yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> Got it all cleaned out and power washed inside today. Next Insulation and floor epoxy.. Pix to follow
> 
> 
> Planning on a 12-15 000 LG with the cold bot I thought of the Johnson controls but they don't seem to work as well..
> 
> follow along on the build I will keep posting.


Good luck with your build Buckeyboy, think that's going to make a really nice fridge once your done. Looking forward to watching you put this all together.


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> Good luck with your build Buckeyboy, think that's going to make a really nice fridge once your done. Looking forward to watching you put this all together.


 Thanks Maxtor, I have till sept 15 till the opener, so I really want to "Do it once and do it right. " I was thinking last night , I was getting ahead of myself . I have to run all the electrical outlets before the insulation, and wiring for lighting so that will be the first step. Please if anyone has any suggestions or idea please chime in, and thanks for such a great thread Maxtor..


----------



## Maxtor

Exactly, think every step and process through before you get started. Give special thought to how you want to do your hanging system. Do you wanna just use eye bolts, or a tracking system like others here have, or something else. I just went with eye bolts thinking it would make it easier but it just made things harder come time to hang the deer. I ended up taking the eye bolts out and making a track system in the fridge. Wish I would have done that from the start.


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> Exactly, think every step and process through before you get started. Give special thought to how you want to do your hanging system. Do you wanna just use eye bolts, or a tracking system like others here have, or something else. I just went with eye bolts thinking it would make it easier but it just made things harder come time to hang the deer. I ended up taking the eye bolts out and making a track system in the fridge. Wish I would have done that from the start.


 Good advise, I have decided to lag 2X4's into the block and use fiberglass insulation instead of board this will up the r factor from r6 to r19 be way less expensive,and provide a place for electrical wiring.


----------



## joessmokin

Well I see this thread is still running strong.
Buckeyboy, Looks like you’re going to make great use out of that building and you are thinking it out first. A couple suggestions: I put a breaker box in mine to make it easier to run more switches and outlets and use less wire. I used a rail system and found after the first year getting a cheap winch was a life saver. With that said you had to know where your main beams are and need an outlet close by. I use cheap fans to circulate the air up around the celling. I have them on a shelf and have an outlet to plug them in. I got a battery operated thermometer so I can check on my temp without opening the door. Just a couple suggestions if you have any questions I will check in on this thread as I am getting mine ready for the season.


----------



## Hkdfrlife

I've got a question guys. What keeps the AC unit from freezing up when you over ride the thermostat?


----------



## joessmokin

Hkdfrlife, The Colbot does this. There are wires temp in the room the other is inscerted in your AC coils. When your Colbot sences your coils freezing it cycles your AC allow your coils to thaw.


----------



## buckeyboy

joessmokin said:


> Well I see this thread is still running strong.
> Buckeyboy, Looks like you’re going to make great use out of that building and you are thinking it out first. A couple suggestions: I put a breaker box in mine to make it easier to run more switches and outlets and use less wire. I used a rail system and found after the first year getting a cheap winch was a life saver. With that said you had to know where your main beams are and need an outlet close by. I use cheap fans to circulate the air up around the celling. I have them on a shelf and have an outlet to plug them in. I got a battery operated thermometer so I can check on my temp without opening the door. Just a couple suggestions if you have any questions I will check in on this thread as I am getting mine ready for the season.


 all great suggestions, I will be framing and insulating as soon as this freakin heat breaks. Then electrical wiring I love your Idea separate breaker box in the cooler.. that's going to happen.
up in the air on the rail system I have lots of awesome meat hooks but one never knows. 
keep the Idea's coming I appreciate it.


----------



## joessmokin

Buckeyboy if you go to page 11 #319 of this thread you will see a photo of my rail system, winch and fan set up.


----------



## buckeyboy

joessmokin said:


> Buckeyboy if you go to page 11 #319 of this thread you will see a photo of my rail system, winch and fan set up.


 I was looking at that sweet set up. I don't have that much room so I think I will do two straight trolly rails one on each side .. your cooler rocks Bro


----------



## buckeyboy

I have a question , My shed is cinder block , so should I frame the inside and use fiberglass on a roll , or liquid nail rigid insulation, 
second question how much insulation and what r factor,


----------



## Maxtor

Hey Buckeyboy, check out this helpful information on how Coolbot suggest to do things, might help you out

http://www.storeitcold.com/coolerconstruction.html


----------



## joessmokin

Maxtor said:


> Hey Buckeyboy, check out this helpful information on how Coolbot suggest to do things, might help you out
> 
> http://www.storeitcold.com/coolerconstruction.html


Great info here. I did an over kill on insulation since I save all I could from my house fire and used it.


----------



## elkcrazedfrk

I read the whole thread. Gonna start mine. When insulating, if I understand correctly when using fiberglass ins. A guy wants the vapor barrier on the outside. I think ill use R-19 in the 2x4 walls. Also would it be good to put plastic o. The inside walls b4 sheathing? Thanks for ur input


----------



## buckeyboy

elkcrazedfrk said:


> I read the whole thread. Gonna start mine. When insulating, if I understand correctly when using fiberglass ins. A guy wants the vapor barrier on the outside. I think ill use R-19 in the 2x4 walls. Also would it be good to put plastic o. The inside walls b4 sheathing? Thanks for ur input


 That's the way I understand it also . so yes.. My buddy owns an appliance store -repair , he got me a new Samsung 15,000 BTU for the bubble , Im a happy camper


----------



## joessmokin

buckeyboy said:


> That's the way I understand it also . so yes.. My buddy owns an appliance store -repair , he got me a new Samsung 15,000 BTU for the bubble , Im a happy camper


That is awsome is it 110 or 220? Just something to think about when you do your wiring.


----------



## buckeyboy

joessmokin said:


> That is awsome is it 110 or 220? Just something to think about when you do your wiring.


 110V 
220 is more efficent but beggers cant be choosy


----------



## joessmokin

Free is a great price. I took my time building mine and was able to aquire lots of stuff as I told others what I was buiding.


----------



## joaxe

buckeyboy said:


> 110V
> 220 is more efficent but beggers cant be choosy


220 is also a more expensive unit...not to mention that your sub-panel and breakers have to support it.

My A/C unit is 110V and cools my 6x8 cooler to 38 degrees F continuously with no issues. Biggest costs were the unit, the Coolbot and the Dow Super-Tuff R panels I used (had most of the lumber).

Good luck with your build!

We're inside of 2 months away till our season starts back up. My Coolbot is "hungry"! :teeth:

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

joaxe said:


> 220 is also a more expensive unit...not to mention that your sub-panel and breakers have to support it.
> 
> My A/C unit is 110V and cools my 6x8 cooler to 38 degrees F continuously with no issues. Biggest costs were the unit, the Coolbot and the Dow Super-Tuff R panels I used (had most of the lumber).
> 
> Good luck with your build!
> 
> We're inside of 2 months away till our season starts back up. My Coolbot is "hungry"! :teeth:
> 
> Joe


 My coolbot is hungry too and I can't wait to use the new track system


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> My coolbot is hungry too and I can't wait to use the new track system


Maxtor,

Awesome that you got a track system (like joessmokin?)! I am thinking about putting some black pipe with collars on each end to attach the gambrels to (poor man's track system :smile inside the cooler and maybe get a winch to lift them up to the pipe.

I still need to re-do the floor, add a 6 or 9 mil plastic vapor barrier on the concrete slab then cover with the Foamular 250 sheets and CDX plywood. I'll foam and caulk all of the seams.

Season is almost upon me!

Thanks again for the great DIY post!

Joe


----------



## buckeyboy

I did not have too much time today But started on the walk in.
the first thing I did was completely seal every crack with great stuff foam


Then I started to put a bubble mylar reflective insulation on the inside of the roof next I will install rigid foam over it


Then I bought some concrete water sealer ? water proofer and sprayed all the cinder block walls.
I plan on spending the whole day tomorrow on it so I will update when done .


----------



## Maxtor

Starting to take shape there Buckey, thanks for supplying pics of your progress, nice to be able to follow along.

@Joaxe - I'll get a picture of the track I put in and post it here as soon as I get a chance


----------



## joaxe

Thanks, Maxtor!

Looking good, buckeyboy!









Joe


----------



## buckeyboy

OK Guy's had a chance to do some more work today. I removed the window and framed out the opening.
window removed


window rough framed


did lots of rigid board insulation


installed the AC and hung a deer LOL

pix of the outside,


I was able to get the temp to 47.5 and it's in the 80's here I still have lots more insulating to do and have to get the cool bot.
some electrical and the rack hanging system stay tuned fellas..


----------



## joaxe

buckeyboy,

Looks great and LOVE the hanging deer! 

Make sure to really insulate over any of that wood framing. Wood framing acts like a "bridge" to allow cold to escape.

Keep going! Looks awesome!

Joe


----------



## buckeyboy

joaxe said:


> buckeyboy,
> 
> Looks great and LOVE the hanging deer!
> 
> Make sure to really insulate over any of that wood framing. Wood framing acts like a "bridge" to allow cold to escape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep going! Looks awesome!
> 
> Joe


yea ran out of rigid board , need to get more tomorrow after work 
thanks for the advise.


----------



## Maxtor

You guys really get some small bodied deer there.......lmao

That's lookin really good buckey, ur gonna have lots of room in there


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> You guys really get some small bodied deer there.......lmao
> 
> That's lookin really good buckey, ur gonna have lots of room in there


LOL 
Yes planning on doing so me butchering in there Tired of spending on the butcher.. OH yea Just ordered the cold bot 
should be here tomorrow I did overnite. I think I'm going to have to Insulate the cement slab.


----------



## bdman

I am just finishing up my cooler. I kind of did it backwards, didn’t put the AC unit in first, and went ahead and put R-13 pink insulation on the walls and ceiling. I have my winch hung up in the top of the building. I also have ½” plywood up over the insulation. I am going to get some 1” foam insulation 4x8 sheets and put on the plywood for extra insulation. The floor is concrete. I have also us chaulk and foam for all the cracks and where the wood comes together.

I order then Ranco A22-2451 to go into my window unit. 

I have a pictures of the process that I will post.

Right now I am waiting for the Ranco to show up before I start doing any more insulating with the sheeting because I am going to have to cut the wall out. I also have another window unit. I got both of them for free. Should I use on with the Ranco and see how that works? Or go ahead and put both of them in there?


----------



## buckeyboy

bdman said:


> I am just finishing up my cooler. I kind of did it backwards, didn’t put the AC unit in first, and went ahead and put R-13 pink insulation on the walls and ceiling. I have my winch hung up in the top of the building. I also have ½” plywood up over the insulation. I am going to get some 1” foam insulation 4x8 sheets and put on the plywood for extra insulation. The floor is concrete. I have also us chaulk and foam for all the cracks and where the wood comes together.
> 
> I order then Ranco A22-2451 to go into my window unit.
> 
> I have a pictures of the process that I will post.
> 
> Right now I am waiting for the Ranco to show up before I start doing any more insulating with the sheeting because I am going to have to cut the wall out. I also have another window unit. I got both of them for free. Should I use on with the Ranco and see how that works? Or go ahead and put both of them in there?


 How big is that area ? that will dictate how many BTU's you will require. Looking Good. you may end up insulating the cement floor lots of cool air is lost through the cement..


----------



## bdman

The building is 12' long 11' wide and im guessing 12' tall. 

I read one of the links that was on here that you loose a lot of the cool air is lost through the floor. I figured it would have been the oppisite! 

One of the AC units is 8,000 btu and the other is 6,000 btu.


----------



## Maxtor

I'm betting you're gonna need an a/c unit WAY bigger then the two you have. Coolbot recommends a 2100 btu for that size building


----------



## bdman

Maxtor said:


> I'm betting you're gonna need an a/c unit WAY bigger then the two you have. Coolbot recommends a 2100 btu for that size building


Thats what I was affriad off. Trying to make this happen on a low budget! I will see what these two will do and go from there. If nothing else then I have a nice place to clean some deer.


----------



## bdman

I wonder if it would get it cool enough in there to let a deer hang for a few days? I was told below 50 degrees would be ok to let the deer hang for a few days?


----------



## buckeyboy

bdman said:


> I wonder if it would get it cool enough in there to let a deer hang for a few days? I was told below 50 degrees would be ok to let the deer hang for a few days?


You have to see what tems youaintain when you start het up
Personally 50 sounds a bit warm


----------



## joessmokin

bdman said:


> Thats what I was affriad off. Trying to make this happen on a low budget! I will see what these two will do and go from there. If nothing else then I have a nice place to clean some deer.


My building is 8X12X9 and I have a 25,000 BTU. It is an overkill but my thoughts were the bigger unit would not have to work as hard to cool the area down and my electric bill would be less. All I can say in when I am running my cooler I do not see much of an increase in my electric bill.

To all you building coolers they look great.


----------



## joaxe

bdman said:


> I wonder if it would get it cool enough in there to let a deer hang for a few days? I was told below 50 degrees would be ok to let the deer hang for a few days?


bdman,

Just keep in mind, bacteria starts forming at just above 40 degress F.

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

bdman said:


> Thats what I was affriad off. Trying to make this happen on a low budget! I will see what these two will do and go from there. If nothing else then I have a nice place to clean some deer.


 Now if you could somehow split that room size in half, you might be able to make it easier to cool. But then you have the height of the room that's an issue as well. 12' high is a lot of area to cool. Honestly, if it was me, I'd build a smaller size fridge inside that big room, similar to what I built at the start of this thread, then design yourself a nice little butcher area utilizing the rest of the area. Trust me, I'm on a low budget as well, but it will pay for itself in the long run because now you also save on money by not paying a butcher!!


----------



## bdman

buckeyboy said:


> You have to see what tems youaintain when you start het up
> Personally 50 sounds a bit warm


50 sounded real warm to me too.


----------



## bdman

Maxtor said:


> Now if you could somehow split that room size in half, you might be able to make it easier to cool. But then you have the height of the room that's an issue as well. 12' high is a lot of area to cool. Honestly, if it was me, I'd build a smaller size fridge inside that big room, similar to what I built at the start of this thread, then design yourself a nice little butcher area utilizing the rest of the area. Trust me, I'm on a low budget as well, but it will pay for itself in the long run because now you also save on money by not paying a butcher!!


I thought about doing that. That means more wood!! I might see if I can find a cheaper unit that is around that 21,000-25,000 btu on craigslist or something like that.

I aint paid a butcher in a while!!!


----------



## buckeyboy

Update My cold bot will be here today YEA! I did more insulating last night after work. I deceided to take Joaxe's advise and completely cover the wood here is a photo bear in mind it's not finished


I ran the unit for a while again last night got it down to 44.5 with me in the cooler, without the cold bot. So Im thinking once all the insulation, weather stripping and crack sealing is done I should be in good shape .
let me know what you think.
Paul


----------



## joessmokin

bdman said:


> I thought about doing that. That means more wood!! I might see if I can find a cheaper unit that is around that 21,000-25,000 btu on craigslist or something like that.
> 
> I aint paid a butcher in a while!!!


Look for end of the year sales at Lowes and Home Depot. Also talk to there sales managers, tell them what your doing and asks about a scratch and dent.


----------



## joessmokin

FYI, If I had to do it all over again mine would be 12' high. Then I could hang my rail system lower and the winch above it.


----------



## joessmokin

buckeyboy said:


> Update My cold bot will be here today YEA! I did more insulating last night after work. I deceided to take Joaxe's advise and completely cover the wood here is a photo bear in mind it's not finished
> 
> 
> I ran the unit for a while again last night got it down to 44.5 with me in the cooler, without the cold bot. So Im thinking once all the insulation, weather stripping and crack sealing is done I should be in good shape .
> let me know what you think.
> Paul


Looks great. You will have no issues keeping your cooler at 36 if you are already getting down to 44.5 with out the cold bot.


----------



## buckeyboy

joessmokin said:


> Looks great. You will have no issues keeping your cooler at 36 if you are already getting down to 44.5 with out the cold bot.


 find out tonite it's coming today.. Im excited about this.. no more what am I going to do with this deer it's too warm


----------



## mizzo29

Hmmm. I spray foam for a living and have a 10,000 but a/c I haven't had to use since I moved into the mountains. I also have a stand up freezer that I don't use.


----------



## mizzo29

Good idea with the extra insulation.


----------



## buckeyboy

mizzo29 said:


> Hmmm. I spray foam for a living and have a 10,000 but a/c I haven't had to use since I moved into the mountains. I also have a stand up freezer that I don't use.


 Good send them to me it's hot here! LOL


----------



## Maxtor

Looking pretty damn good Buckey. You'll have no issues what-so-ever keeping that thing cool once you have your Cool-Bot installed


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> Looking pretty damn good Buckey. You'll have no issues what-so-ever keeping that thing cool once you have your Cool-Bot installed


 thanks I still have lost to do but the main part is done coolbot install tonite...


----------



## joesandi

Looking to do my own to after reading about half of this. Is there a place to find what size air conditioner you will need? I'm thinking 6x6x8.
It will be inside my shed.

Thanks,

By the way when i get going I hope it looks half as good as those on here.


----------



## Maxtor

joesandi said:


> Looking to do my own to after reading about half of this. Is there a place to find what size air conditioner you will need? I'm thinking 6x6x8.
> It will be inside my shed.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> By the way when i get going I hope it looks half as good as those on here.


 Click HERE Joesandi and you'll find the info you're looking for  That page will even tell you which brands of A/C will work best with the CoolBot


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> Looking pretty damn good Buckey. You'll have no issues what-so-ever keeping that thing cool once you have your Cool-Bot installed


X2! Great job, man!

P.S. Tape or foam those seams! I used Great Stuff Foam and covered it with Nashua 398 HVAC (white) tape or silicone caulk (in some places).

Joe


----------



## polarishunter0

You guys are unbelievable. This is AWESOME. I took a 1 room, dilapidated shack and have it looking "decent". I would love a cooler like these shown. Has me thinking about my next "project".


----------



## joesandi

Thanks Maxter.


----------



## buckeyboy

joesandi said:


> Looking to do my own to after reading about half of this. Is there a place to find what size air conditioner you will need? I'm thinking 6x6x8.
> It will be inside my shed.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> By the way when i get going I hope it looks half as good as those on here.


 here you go now there is no excuse get started LOL
Paul

Spring 2013 Update on AC Brand recommendations: For years we have pushed LG Air Conditioners as the best brand to use with CoolBots, but I would like to highlight that we have THOUSANDS of people using HAIER branded air conditioners and almost as many people using GE air conditioners. Folks buying HAIER actually have the LOWEST call-in rate. We like all 3 of these brands equally! Buy any one of them [that has a digital display]!

This is a chart showing the size air conditioning unit we recommend to cool a well-insulated room. 

The "industry standard" insulation for a walk-in cooler is at least 4" of styrofoam in walls, ceiling and floor (minimum insulation value of R-24).

These figures are for a 38 F room, with 8' ceilings, opened no more than 4 times per hour. 

Restaurants need to be below 40F to be food safe. Most set it on 38F to give themselves a buffer. If you'd prefer to be consistently at 36F, upsize at least one size. Upsize TWO sizes if cooler is opened once every 10 minutes.

Florists/convenience stores with display coolers (glass doors) need to upsize at least TWO sizes. Glass leaks a lot of cold. Florists should consider upsizing one level anyway to allow for a lower FAN speed. CoolBots are HIGHLY recommended by industry groups for Florists and flower growers. Less wind on the flowers, less drying, higher quality product in the end. 

Wine coolers, cheese cave or cured meat folks that only need to be at 50+F can use smaller air conditioners. Email if we can answer any questions!



Dimensions of the Walk-In Cooler

Size of Air-Conditioner

6' x 8' 10,000 BTU 
8' x 8' 12,000 BTU 
8' x 10' 15,000 BTU 
8' x 12' 18,000 BTU 
10' x 12' 21,000 BTU 
10' x 14' 24,000 BTU 
(Air-conditioner vs. room size for CoolBot Systems @ 38F)


----------



## buckeyboy

joaxe said:


> X2! Great job, man!
> 
> P.S. Tape or foam those seams! I used Great Stuff Foam and covered it with Nashua 398 HVAC (white) tape or silicone caulk (in some places).
> 
> 
> 
> Joe


 Thanks Joe , yes I still have lots of insulating to do and all seams will be foamed and taped.. I will post more pix as I work towards completing the project ,

what a fun and useful project thanks to Maxtor....

Paul


----------



## Maxtor

You guys have me wanting to build a bigger one now.........lmao


----------



## joessmokin

Maxtor, you started this thread Sep. 19th 2010 and you have helped so many of us and or motivated us to build one. Thanks Oh now that you opened the door.... it only took you almost 3 years to want a bigger one imagin that LMAO


----------



## Maxtor

joessmokin said:


> Maxtor, you started this thread Sep. 19th 2010 and you have helped so many of us and or motivated us to build one. Thanks Oh now that you opened the door.... it only took you almost 3 years to want a bigger one imagin that LMAO


lol.....and the beauty of it is there is a possible move in my very near future and the new place would have the room for a bigger one  Guess if I move, I'll get to see just how portable mine is.

Thanks for the kind words. Only did what we all should be doing, archers helping archers!


----------



## Maxtor

How's things going Buckey, haven't seen/heard no updates in a while. Get the Coolbot all installed?


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> How's things going Buckey, haven't seen/heard no updates in a while. Get the Coolbot all installed?


I went to Maine for a few days I finished insulating and have the cool bot running today. its getting down to 39 degrees and recovers around 43 so I am going to let it run overnight because I did not insulate the cement floor it actually went down to 37 on a few cycles.. not bad because it was 80 degrees today I will update tomorrow folks.


----------



## buckeyboy

OK -guy's update . 
I let my cooler run overnight and when I got up this morning I had a band of ice first 3 fins and the temp was 46* I had the differential set at -4 being aggressive . I still have the cement floor which makes me think it's absorbing too much cold . or perhaps more insulation.
I did have it down to 38 * but rate of rise in 3 min was about 5* too fast YES _ NO ?? here is a pix of the unit insulated.


----------



## Maxtor

My first couple times running the Coolbot I had an ice buildup as well. When I contacted Coolbot they told me I was likely putting the temps of the Coolbot TOO low, which causes this. I believe I ended up leaving it at the settings it is automatically at and haven't had an issue yet. I have the older Coolbot so don't know if the settings are the same as yours


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> My first couple times running the Coolbot I had an ice buildup as well. When I contacted Coolbot they told me I was likely putting the temps of the Coolbot TOO low, which causes this. I believe I ended up leaving it at the settings it is automatically at and haven't had an issue yet. I have the older Coolbot so don't know if the settings are the same as yours


 Thanks max I think I will give it another try, still think the floor may need to be insulated.


----------



## Maxtor

IMO, I would insulate the floor because concrete floors cause issues with trying to cool the fridge down. I ended up insulating mine and am glad I did. Remember, cold air falls so by insulating, it prevents it from absorbing into the concrete


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> IMO, I would insulate the floor because concrete floors cause issues with trying to cool the fridge down. I ended up insulating mine and am glad I did. Remember, cold air falls so by insulating, it prevents it from absorbing into the concrete


 exactly I think that's why it climbs faster too after dropping. the floor is aborbing the cold- going to do some more tonite.


----------



## joaxe

buckeyboy said:


> exactly I think that's why it climbs faster too after dropping. the floor is aborbing the cold- going to do some more tonite.


I did the same thing and insulated my garage floor (concrete slab). I used Owens Corning Foamular 250 (interlocking sheets) covered with CDX plywood. I foamed all of the seams, too. This helped a LOT with keeping the temperature from going up/down - depending on the temp. of the slab.

I am going to put down some 9 mil plastic soon (over the slab but under the foam) to help even more.

Maybe check out these tech tips for freeze-ups and factory resets:

http://www.storeitcold.com/techsupport.html

Joe


----------



## joessmokin

Buckeyboy, here is my 2 cents on whats going on. FYI my cement floor is not insulated and I have a drain. First my A/C keeps ice on the bottom 3" or so no issues. Next I do not belive you are running you cooler long enough. The coolbot will get the cooler down fast but once the A/C starts to freeze up the coolbot will let the A/C cycle more often so the A/C does not total freeze up. The longer you keep your cooler running the cooler it will get until it reaches 36 degrees (well mine does even when it's 90+ outside). I would also put a couple bright lights in you cooler and wait till dark and see if your door has light come through any cracks. I put an extra seal that my door meets up against.
Hope this helps

Joe


----------



## buckeyboy

Well got to thinking not enough insulation. so I happen to go on craigalist and found walk in cooler panels they were listed 4X8 X4" they are actually 4X10 X4" thick
so I ask the guy what he wants. they are demoing a Shaws market it happened to be about a mile from work.. he replies $ 4.00 each yes 4 dollars each . so I grabbed the box truck and ran right down. I may need a few more but he has plenty.. so it cost me 28 bucks LOL the only downside freakin things are heavy..


----------



## joaxe

That'll fix the insulation issue!

:shade:

Joe


----------



## MIbowhunter49

Just a couple notes:


Great call on the Great Stuff foam. The amount of heat let in thru infiltration is surprising to most people


And for the record, you don't "lose cold", you gain heat. First law of thermodynamics.


Keep your windows small, use 2x6 or larger studs to allow for extra insulation. The great majority of heat let into your system is through conduction. The only way to combat this is either by decreasing surface area (having a smaller cooler), or increasing thickness. Obviously this increase in thickness allows for more insulation. If you've got the money, have somebody come out and spray in the insulation. The Rvalue is much higher. Not to mention it'll combat infiltration.

And just because a lot of people don't know, smashing two layers of R13 insulation into the wall doesn't make it R26. It's still R13, just double the price.


Moisture management would be a big concern of mine. I'm not too familiar with that topic though.


----------



## buckeyboy

joaxe said:


> That'll fix the insulation issue!
> 
> :shade:
> 
> Joe


 OH yea it will... he even has 6" thick for 4 dollars a panel.. so I will be re- insulating
at least when I'm done we will be able to see the difference before and after adequate insulation.


----------



## buckeyboy

well already remodeling my new cooler with the new cooler panels hers a photo of what they look like
they are very heavy and thick 
here is a photo. I even put them on the floor , this should do the trick, but my cooler is shrinking. LOL


here is a pix of them over the floor


so all together I have 5-1/2 " of insulation now..


----------



## buckeyboy

did some more putting the 3" panels in the roof too


----------



## joessmokin

Looking great that shoud do the job. Just remember the cooler will get cool quick then come up some as the A/C has to clycle to keep from freezing but once it gets down to correct temp for a while your A/C will not have to work as hard with all the insulation you have.

Joe


----------



## buckeyboy

joessmokin said:


> Looking great that shoud do the job. Just remember the cooler will get cool quick then come up some as the A/C has to clycle to keep from freezing but once it gets down to correct temp for a while your A/C will not have to work as hard with all the insulation you have.
> 
> Joe


Thanks for all your advise Joe,
I will post some more pix as I complete the project.


----------



## buckeyboy

Ok just an up date for you folks following along.
I have all the 4" insulation panels in now. not too keep opening the door I purchased a thermometer with a long wire probe to . the out side temp on this is actually the temp in the cooler,

I also have a real good lab thermometer, they both read a couple of degrees cooler than the cool bot? anyone have this issue? I am still taping some seams getting ready for the electrical and hanging system,


----------



## Maxtor

I did the same thing with mine buckey, installed a thermometer I could monitor from the outside. I've never compared the temps on the thermometer and Coolbot to see if there is a difference. As long as I get the temps I want on the outside one, that's all I'm worried about. The difference in temps could be because of where the probes are located on each one. I know with mine, the coolbot probe is installed where the instructions say, but the probe for the outside thermometer is located dead center in the fridge. The center of the fridge is where my deer hang so that's the area I want the temp to be perfect.

You're making some great progress on it, that's for sure. When it's all said and done and you've got to use it, you're going to ask yourself why you didn't build one of these sooner...........lol


----------



## DougKMN

A couple degrees from setpoint is actually pretty darn accurate for what is essentially a cheap PID controller. 

Heck, I would wager that your fridge swings more than that even without opening the door getting involved. 

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> I did the same thing with mine buckey, installed a thermometer I could monitor from the outside. I've never compared the temps on the thermometer and Coolbot to see if there is a difference. As long as I get the temps I want on the outside one, that's all I'm worried about. The difference in temps could be because of where the probes are located on each one. I know with mine, the coolbot probe is installed where the instructions say, but the probe for the outside thermometer is located dead center in the fridge. The center of the fridge is where my deer hang so that's the area I want the temp to be perfect.
> 
> You're making some great progress on it, that's for sure. When it's all said and done and you've got to use it, you're going to ask yourself why you didn't build one of these sooner...........lol


 Thanks Maxtor.. going to drill through the cement tonight and run some electrical wiring. and outlets. then going to hang my rails you guys are going to like this cheap easy Idea??


----------



## buckeyboy

Did a little more work on the cooler Ran electric haung lights and put in a rail slide for hanging the meat.. its actually roller bearings that fit inside unistrut track.. here are a couple of photos..


----------



## Maxtor

Good work buckey. Good job on the track too, makes life a whole lot easier. I'm the one that started this thread and think I now have the smallest fridge out of all the ones posted here...........lol


----------



## DougKMN

Are the hangers inside the unistrut commercial or home made? If home made, can you provide a photo? 

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> Good work buckey. Good job on the track too, makes life a whole lot easier. I'm the one that started this thread and think I now have the smallest fridge out of all the ones posted here...........lol


 *And I cant thank you enough.* now I can hunt on Sunday afternoons , if I kill I have a place to put the deer.. almost finished need to work on insulating the door better.. 
are you getting the itch to expand your cooler... POKE POKE!!! LOL


----------



## Maxtor

Trust me, I've had the itch to expand for a while now..........lol


----------



## buckeyboy

DougKMN said:


> Are the hangers inside the unistrut commercial or home made? If home made, can you provide a photo?
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 4


 MC Master Catt $10.00 each

they fit inside the uni-strut go to Mc Master carr and search word trolly


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## joessmokin

buckeyboy said:


> MC Master Catt $10.00 each
> 
> they fit inside the uni-strut go to Mc Master carr and search word trolly


Looks awsome and great looking rail system. How are you going to lift your deer to those hooks? The reason I ask is I had the same issue my first year and quickly made a deciesion to put a winch system in. My back love the winch and it does not have to be very big either.

Joe


----------



## buckeyboy

joessmokin said:


> Looks awsome and great looking rail system. How are you going to lift your deer to those hooks? The reason I ask is I had the same issue my first year and quickly made a deciesion to put a winch system in. My back love the winch and it does not have to be very big either.
> 
> Joe


most likely add a winch Joe .
got the cooler panels for $4 dollars a piece ,and the AC for free, so only into for the coolbot. foam and some odds and ends.. so I'll spring for a winch and save my back
most likely finish most of it tomorrow


----------



## Maxtor

Yup, it's all about ease and anything that makes it easier on your back is well worth it....... That even applies at the truck for me, this thing even has an electric winch attached to it so no lifting for me


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> Yup, it's all about ease and anything that makes it easier on your back is well worth it....... That even applies at the truck for me, this thing even has an electric winch attached to it so no lifting for me


nice MaX there ya go


----------



## joessmokin

Max that is awsome. I built one with a hand winch but yours with electric winch is just over the top. I did build mine with a round stock bottom so it would rotate.

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

joessmokin said:


> Max that is awsome. I built one with a hand winch but yours with electric winch is just over the top. I did build mine with a round stock bottom so it would rotate.
> 
> Joe


Actually, mine is built in two equal sections and the bottom half has round stock welded in it. The top half slides over the round stock and allows me to swivel it, bringing the deer right into the back of the truck.


----------



## buckeyboy

Hi guy's just checking in My walk in is just about done . I have been doing some testing and the temp's were fluctuating 
so I filled a 100 qt cooler and let it run overnite what a difference have it holding pretty darn steady at 38 Just what I have it set for. the compressor only runs for a min then shuts off to maintain..
I will take and post a few more photos when finished 
special thanks to 
MAXTOR , JOESSMOKIN had lots of fun with this one ..

Paul


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## Maxtor

Congrats Buckey, sounds like you're well on your way to being ready for the upcoming season. My building skills are VERY limited so when I look at my fridge, I'm damn proud of what I've accomplished, especially knowing the $ it saves us by doing everything ourselves. Looking forward to seeing pics of the finished product, then another pic when you have something hanging in it


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> Congrats Buckey, sounds like you're well on your way to being ready for the upcoming season. My building skills are VERY limited so when I look at my fridge, I'm damn proud of what I've accomplished, especially knowing the $ it saves us by doing everything ourselves. Looking forward to seeing pics of the finished product, then another pic when you have something hanging in it


 You got it bud!! thanks for the inspiration...


----------



## joessmokin

Buckey, Congrats you will be a happy man when you get that deer on a Sunday or week night and can just enjoy the momite instead of rushing to process you kill. Down side friends will be calling at all hours to use it LOL. Glad to help.

Mator is the man for starting this thread and him saying he has Very limited building skills......... Ya right LOL 

Joe


----------



## buckeyboy

joessmokin said:


> Buckey, Congrats you will be a happy man when you get that deer on a Sunday or week night and can just enjoy the momite instead of rushing to process you kill. Down side friends will be calling at all hours to use it LOL. Glad to help.
> 
> Mator is the man for starting this thread and him saying he has Very limited building skills......... Ya right LOL
> 
> Joe


 They can come put a deer in??? after the door opens when you insert 7 $1 dollar bills a day.. LOL Thanks for all your help


----------



## daancon

Wonder if old fridge would work for walk in cooler


----------



## Maxtor

daancon said:


> Wonder if old fridge would work for walk in cooler


 Okay, here's my take on this. Yes, I have heard they work good but in my opinion there are two reasons why I wouldn't want to use one instead of something like ours. One, because of the size restrictions of an old fridge, you would have to quarter your deer in order for it all to fit in. (and this brings me to the second reason) Two, you would have to take the hide off the deer which in turn doesn't allow the meat to age properly. Don't get me wrong, the meat would still be good, however, having been someone that has hung his deer both ways, hide off and hide on, I would NEVER hang my deer with the hide off again. I saw too much of a difference in the meat quality to go back to taking the hide off before hanging.


----------



## joessmokin

Maxtor said:


> Okay, here's my take on this. Yes, I have heard they work good but in my opinion there are two reasons why I wouldn't want to use one instead of something like ours. One, because of the size restrictions of an old fridge, you would have to quarter your deer in order for it all to fit in. (and this brings me to the second reason) Two, you would have to take the hide off the deer which in turn doesn't allow the meat to age properly. Don't get me wrong, the meat would still be good, however, having been someone that has hung his deer both ways, hide off and hide on, I would NEVER hang my deer with the hide off again. I saw too much of a difference in the meat quality to go back to taking the hide off before hanging.


I total agree with Maxtor


----------



## Maxtor

Uh oh, picked up a little something to tinker on and fix back up so I can put it to use with the deer I hang in my fridge 










Never used a smoker before but bet your booty that I'm gonna learn quick!!


----------



## skyspy1

Maxtor said:


> Uh oh, picked up a little something to tinker on and fix back up so I can put it to use with the deer I hang in my fridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never used a smoker before but bet your booty that I'm gonna learn quick!!


 OH no everyone will be making smokers LOL


----------



## Maxtor

That was my initial plan, to build my own. But came across this one for sale and got it for only $20 so couldn't pass it up. Just think how healthy everyone would be eating though. Eating deer THEY shot, hung in a fridge THEY built, processed on their own butcher table, then cooked in their own smoker.


----------



## skyspy1

Maxtor said:


> That was my initial plan, to build my own. But came across this one for sale and got it for only $20 so couldn't pass it up. Just think how healthy everyone would be eating though. Eating deer THEY shot, hung in a fridge THEY built, processed on their own butcher table, then cooked in their own smoker.


I'll be over for dinner at 6:00


----------



## C Svach

skyspy1 said:


> OH no everyone will be making smokers LOL


Be careful smoking becomes addictive, my wife wants me to give up smoking. Not talking about cigarettes either!!!!!


----------



## Maxtor

C Svach said:


> Be careful smoking becomes addictive, my wife wants me to give up smoking. Not talking about cigarettes either!!!!!


 Hey, there's a lot worse habits I could have or be addicted too 

I know I've got a lot to learn as far as smoking but it's going to be fun. Been wanting to get into this for a while now


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> Hey, there's a lot worse habits I could have or be addicted too
> 
> I know I've got a lot to learn as far as smoking but it's going to be fun. Been wanting to get into this for a while now


I recently pulled the trigger on the newly-redesigned Bradley Smoker (model BS611). Overstock had it for $279 (used a coupon) and free shipping. Lowest price I've seen for this model so far (and I've been looking)! Now, I just need to get an Auber PID and maybe the cold smoke adapter.

Looking forward to testing it out very soon...

Joe


----------



## joaxe

BTW, just fired up my cooler last week for a "pre-season test". Inside temp. was 79 degrees F. Turned on the Coolbot, the AC unit and closed the door. Came back an hour later and the inside temp. was 36 degrees F!

Yeah...I'm ready. 

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

joaxe said:


> BTW, just fired up my cooler last week for a "pre-season test". Inside temp. was 79 degrees F. Turned on the Coolbot, the AC unit and closed the door. Came back an hour later and the inside temp. was 36 degrees F!
> 
> Yeah...I'm ready.
> 
> Joe


 Sure glad you posted this Joe. Among all the things going on right now I forgot I need to do a pre-season run of my fridge  Thanks for the reminder!


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> Sure glad you posted this Joe. Among all the things going on right now I forgot I need to do a pre-season run of my fridge  Thanks for the reminder!


No problem, Maxtor!

Thanks again for the thread and getting all of us started building our own coolers!

Joe


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## buckeyboy

I had a little time no neaten up and seal and calk the cooler a bit more 
I also extended the wires and mounted my coolbot on the outside,, here are some photos.. I also added led lights no heat and they work to -4f*
here are a few photos.. I cant stop messing with this thing wife thinks I'm nuts.. LOL


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## joaxe

buckey,

Just think...with all of the foam insulation acting as padding, you should be nice and cozy in your straightjacket when the wife finally has you committed!



We all seem to be suffering from the same "affliction"... :shade:

Joe


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## buckeyboy

joaxe said:


> buckey,
> 
> Just think...with all of the foam insulation acting as padding, you should be nice and cozy in your straightjacket when the wife finally has you committed!
> 
> 
> 
> We all seem to be suffering from the same "affliction"... :shade:
> 
> Joe


No Kidding !!! I may have to live in it,,, I actually really enjoyed this project,


----------



## Maxtor

And I must say, you've done a very nice job with it too!!! :thumbs_up I like the idea of mounting the Coolbot on the outside, I just might have to borrow that idea.


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> And I must say, you've done a very nice job with it too!!! :thumbs_up I like the idea of mounting the Coolbot on the outside, I just might have to borrow that idea.


 borrow away if it was not for you, I never would have done this.. you may have to extend the sensors I simply did this with some speaker wire,,


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## joessmokin

Got mine cleaned out and washed it down with bleach. Started it up for the season and it is holding at 39 degrees. Ready for some friends that hunt KY to bring them in to hang. 

Buckeyboy, your cool looks awsome and there is always some way to impove it LOL ( I still have more for mine to do)

Joe


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## buckeyboy

joessmokin said:


> Got mine cleaned out and washed it down with bleach. Started it up for the season and it is holding at 39 degrees. Ready for some friends that hunt KY to bring them in to hang.
> 
> Buckeyboy, your cool looks awsome and there is always some way to impove it LOL ( I still have more for mine to do)
> 
> Joe


 that's good news Joe, yea I have some more Ideas for mine , season opens here next sunday,,so I just wanted to get her finished ,, sure some additions will come...


----------



## buckeyboy

well my buddy shot a deer yesterday and its warm here so the walk in cooler is officialy been commissioned it's working like a charm


----------



## joaxe

buckeyboy said:


> well my buddy shot a deer yesterday and its warm here so the walk in cooler is officialy been commissioned it's working like a charm


Good to hear, buckey!

BTW, I was successful on opening day here in the Special Regulations area in SE PA. The doe is hanging right now at a comfy 38 degrees F since last Saturday night!

LOVE the Cool Bot!

Joe


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## buckeyboy

joaxe said:


> Good to hear, buckey!
> 
> BTW, I was successful on opening day here in the Special Regulations area in SE PA. The doe is hanging right now at a comfy 38 degrees F since last Saturday night!
> 
> LOVE the Cool Bot!
> 
> Joe


 yep gota love them cool bots congrats on the doe man


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## joaxe

buckeyboy said:


> yep gota love them cool bots congrats on the doe man


Thanks buckey! I just skinned her tonight. I'll start the processing tomorrow after work.

Joe


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## buckeyboy

joaxe said:


> Thanks buckey! I just skinned her tonight. I'll start the processing tomorrow after work.
> 
> Joe


 Got one in mine my buddy shot it. boy was he glad I had the cooler


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## Maxtor

Congrats on the doe Joaxe. My season starts tomorrow morning, finally


----------



## c_matt92

I totally appreciate everything you guys have put on here. Until a week ago, I had a professional walk in cooler/butcher shop I could use at any time. Due to a family feud, that is no longer available. It is time for me to start planning a new cooler. 



Maxtor said:


> having been someone that has hung his deer both ways, hide off and hide on, I would NEVER hang my deer with the hide off again. I saw too much of a difference in the meat quality to go back to taking the hide off before hanging.


This is the only thing I have notice I disagree with. I get the hide off of my animal as quick as possible, generally in 30 minutes of it being down (benefit of hunting right by my butcher shop). With deer it isn't much of a change, but I hunt antelope far more, and will tell everyone this. You MUST get that hide off of them ASAP. Their hide is different then a deer, and the longer it on the animal, the more it tastes like sagebrush.


----------



## Maxtor

c_matt92 said:


> I totally appreciate everything you guys have put on here. Until a week ago, I had a professional walk in cooler/butcher shop I could use at any time. Due to a family feud, that is no longer available. It is time for me to start planning a new cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> This is the only thing I have notice I disagree with. I get the hide off of my animal as quick as possible, generally in 30 minutes of it being down (benefit of hunting right by my butcher shop). With deer it isn't much of a change, but I hunt antelope far more, and will tell everyone this. You MUST get that hide off of them ASAP. Their hide is different then a deer, and the longer it on the animal, the more it tastes like sagebrush.


 Well, I know this is a subject that has different opinions but, as I said, having now done it both ways, you could never convince me now that it's better to hang your deer with the hide off it. Hide on or off both work good, so it's however you prefer.


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> Congrats on the doe Joaxe. My season starts tomorrow morning, finally


Thank you, sir! Wish you lots of success this season!

On a "chilly" note...I just started to get a lot of ice build-up on the front fins of my LG. I called StoreItCold.com and spoke to a nice woman over there. (Ron Khosla is still the MAN there, though!) :shade:
She said to clean the fins with a brush and warm water. I had already done that and used a heat gun to melt the thin sheet of ice on the fins. I also checked to make sure that the drain hole wans't clogged or obstructed in any way. The ice retuned overnight and was there this morning.

Any thoughts on this? I might have to call them back again and/or run some tests on the Coolbot (maybe reset it to "factory" settings). It's kinda hard to really turn it off when there's part of a deer hanging in the cooler! 
I have the rib cage and hindquarters left to process. Even with the ice, the cooler has been holding at 38-39 degrees F.

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

joaxe said:


> Thank you, sir! Wish you lots of success this season!
> 
> On a "chilly" note...I just started to get a lot of ice build-up on the front fins of my LG. I called StoreItCold.com and spoke to a nice woman over there. (Ron Khosla is still the MAN there, though!) :shade:
> She said to clean the fins with a brush and warm water. I had already done that and used a heat gun to melt the thin sheet of ice on the fins. I also checked to make sure that the drain hole wans't clogged or obstructed in any way. The ice retuned overnight and was there this morning.
> 
> Any thoughts on this? I might have to call them back again and/or run some tests on the Coolbot (maybe reset it to "factory" settings). It's kinda hard to really turn it off when there's part of a deer hanging in the cooler!
> I have the rib cage and hindquarters left to process. Even with the ice, the cooler has been holding at 38-39 degrees F.
> 
> Joe


 Hey Joe,
Had this problem with mine as well at first and after speaking to Ron through email, he suggested that maybe I had set the "room temperature" too low. Now, I've got an older cool-bot so don't know if the settings are all the same but I just raised the room temperature one or two degrees and the ice problem went away


Maybe guys running cool-bots can post here what settings they have theirs set at so others reading this thread get a better idea of what temps/settings to use


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> Hey Joe,
> Had this problem with mine as well at first and after speaking to Ron through email, he suggested that maybe I had set the "room temperature" too low. Now, I've got an older cool-bot so don't know if the settings are all the same but I just raised the room temperature one or two degrees and the ice problem went away
> 
> 
> Maybe guys running cool-bots can post here what settings they have theirs set at so others reading this thread get a better idea of what temps/settings to use


Maxtor,

Thanks for the reply!

I raised the room temp. to 39 degrees F (from 38) and ran the fan on high for a bit until I could "peel" the ice from the fins. I also followed the lead from my next door neighbor (he's a car mechanic and mentioned something about car AC and the fins on the back of an AC unit) and placed a pedestal fan blowing air at an angle onto the rear fins (the fins that face the "outside" of the cooler).

I reset everything and checked back 2 hours later - no ice. I was going to check again at mindnight but fell asleep on the couch. I went out into the garage at 7:00 AM this morning and..........NO ICE! The cooler was also "colder" than the CoolBot setting of 39 degrees. Nice!!!

Thanks again,

"Frosty" Joe


----------



## Maxtor

I was under the impression that the fan of the a/c should always be run on high. At least that's what I was told.

Glad you got it sorted though bud and have everything running smooth


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> I was under the impression that the fan of the a/c should always be run on high. At least that's what I was told.
> 
> Glad you got it sorted though bud and have everything running smooth


Maxtor,

Yes...the fan should always run on high (at the fastest speed) during normal operation. If your fins ever freeze up or develop icing, running the AC unit in "fan only" mode helps melt the ice. I was just pointing out to also keep the fan on high when only in "fan mode" to help clear the ice.

There was a little bit of ice when I came home from work. There must be something trapped under the fins causing the water to "dam up" before going out the drain hole. Maybe a bug or a piece of that spray foam got in there. I'll give it a once-over sometime this wekend. It is definitely better than the past few days...

Joe


----------



## joaxe

Well...there was more ice! I cleaned the fins on the front of the LG A/C unit (and the back fins) but, since the A/C unit is in the cooler (which is also in my 2-car garage), the fins were pretty clean. I also ran the fan on high (condenser off) to help melt the ice. The condensate water drips nicely from the drain hole so it's not being blocked there. I can't see any other obstruction at the base of the fins. I also reset the CoolBot (firmware 6.1) to "factory" and reset the room temperature.

There are 2 more settings that I can try. I can adjust the fin range higher and use the "hidden" (delayed start) setting in the CoolBot. I am going to talk with them today to see if I can get any more ideas.

...I have to. I shot another doe on Saturday!









Joe


----------



## Maxtor

Congrats Joe, another one for the fridge  

That's one of the nice features of the coolbot, them guys are always there to help you out if you have any issues! Thumbs up for CoolBot


----------



## Maxtor

Hey Joe, just out of curiosity, did you read all the steps on their Tech Support page about ice build up? You may just need to relocate your Fin Sensor.


----------



## madarchery

I have heard the coolbot/AC acts a dehumidifier vs a true cooling system. As such it will dehydrate the meat as it hangs if you are aging for a longer period of time. Has anyone experienced this?


----------



## Maxtor

madarchery said:


> I have heard the coolbot/AC acts a dehumidifier vs a true cooling system. As such it will dehydrate the meat as it hangs if you are aging for a longer period of time. Has anyone experienced this?


 Nope, I certainly haven't. Hung my deer last year for 10 days and couldn't believe how nice the meat was.


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> Hey Joe, just out of curiosity, did you read all the steps on their Tech Support page about ice build up? You may just need to relocate your Fin Sensor.


Maxtor,

Yeah, I read all of that and even printed it out to take into the cooler with me. I even reset the CoolBot to "factory defaults". Ice build-up still happened. Last night, I melted all of the ice with a heat gun and the A/C unit on fan mode only and tried the following adjustment. I adjusted the "Fin" setting from "0" to "1" as per the Tech Support page. I also "exactly" positioned the Frost (Fin) Sensor in the middle and at about 1" from the bottom of the fin assembly. I reconnected all sensors multiple times (as they said that sometimes helps), tuned the unit on and went to bed. In the morning.......NO ICE!!!

I just got done emailing them to see if they have any more tips. Hopefully, when I get home in about an hour, there will be no more ice on the fins. BTW, when I checked this morning, my Walmart Accu-Rite outdoor thermometer unit (with the sensor inside the cooler) read 34 degrees F! That's the lowest I've seen that read. Inside, the CoolBot read 37 degrees F and there was no ice!

Here's hoping! I don't want that doe in there to start sweating...:wink:

Joe


----------



## buckeyboy

joaxe said:


> Well...there was more ice! I cleaned the fins on the front of the LG A/C unit (and the back fins) but, since the A/C unit is in the cooler (which is also in my 2-car garage), the fins were pretty clean. I also ran the fan on high (condenser off) to help melt the ice. The condensate water drips nicely from the drain hole so it's not being blocked there. I can't see any other obstruction at the base of the fins. I also reset the CoolBot (firmware 6.1) to "factory" and reset the room temperature.
> 
> There are 2 more settings that I can try. I can adjust the fin range higher and use the "hidden" (delayed start) setting in the CoolBot. I am going to talk with them today to see if I can get any more ideas.
> 
> ...I have to. I shot another doe on Saturday!
> 
> View attachment 1779290
> 
> 
> Joe


 hey Joe I had to put my fin range temp up to 5 not to get ice, also make sure your fin probe is making good contact. 

ran mine at 36-40 for a week no ice on 5


----------



## joaxe

Cooler peeps,

It looks like the Fin setting adjustment resolved the issue of the front fins icing up. I had emailed StoreItCold.com with the steps I've taken and I got a reply directly from Ron Khosla (the man!). Ron was very detailed in his reply about what might be causing the issue and some tips on resolving it. He also had me adjust the "Heater" setting from "0" to "1" (along with the Fin adjustment I had already made).

This morning, again, there was NO ICE! The cooler also seems to be holding temperature better (and colder!) than the "room setting" on the CoolBot. I'll continue to monitor it but it looks like the problem is resolved!

As has been stated before in this thread, the StoreItCold.com folks (especially Ron Khosla, the designer of the product) are always more than willing to help with any issues that arise using their product. I wish all companies were like them...

"Thawed Out" Joe


----------



## buckeyboy

joaxe said:


> Cooler peeps,
> 
> It looks like the Fin setting adjustment resolved the issue of the front fins icing up. I had emailed StoreItCold.com with the steps I've taken and I got a reply directly from Ron Khosla (the man!). Ron was very detailed in his reply about what might be causing the issue and some tips on resolving it. He also had me adjust the "Heater" setting from "0" to "1" (along with the Fin adjustment I had already made).
> 
> This morning, again, there was NO ICE! The cooler also seems to be holding temperature better (and colder!) than the "room setting" on the CoolBot. I'll continue to monitor it but it looks like the problem is resolved!
> 
> As has been stated before in this thread, the StoreItCold.com folks (especially Ron Khosla, the designer of the product) are always more than willing to help with any issues that arise using their product. I wish all companies were like them...
> 
> "Thawed Out" Joe


 Joe I had to go up to5 to not get Ice, I figured tat was the issue, keep an eye on it you may have to bump it up a bit more


----------



## joaxe

IMO, the CoolBot is right up there with the Thermacell as far as ingenious inventions go...:thumbs_up

  

Joe


----------



## joaxe

buckeyboy said:


> Joe I had to go up to5 to not get Ice, I figured tat was the issue, keep an eye on it you may have to bump it up a bit more


Will do, sir!

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

See, the newer Coolbots have more settings on them then my old one. I stuck a 6pt in my fridge last night  so I'll see how mine's running today.

Hope you got that all straightened out Joe and you're right about the coolbot!!


----------



## cgs1967

Very cool and no pun intended. Thanks for sharing this information with us.


----------



## Maxtor

I now know I need to make a change to my fridge and just not sure what or how I'm going to do it. My wife and I had a hell of a time lifting my 6pt up to the hooks on the track in the fridge. We're not 20 anymore and the body isn't capable of things it used to be able to do. 

One thought I have is to install a winch on the roof of the fridge, drill a hole through the roof into the cooler so the winch cable can drop through. This would allow us too lift the deer up too the hooks a lot easier. BUT, I'm thinking, if I do this, won't I make it harder to keep the fridge cool because of the opening in the roof? It would only be a hole large enough to drop the cable through but still, it can't be sealed. 

Any thoughts on this? Or maybe suggestions as opposed to the winch idea??


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> I now know I need to make a change to my fridge and just not sure what or how I'm going to do it. My wife and I had a hell of a time lifting my 6pt up to the hooks on the track in the fridge. We're not 20 anymore and the body isn't capable of things it used to be able to do.
> 
> One thought I have is to install a winch on the roof of the fridge, drill a hole through the roof into the cooler so the winch cable can drop through. This would allow us too lift the deer up too the hooks a lot easier. BUT, I'm thinking, if I do this, won't I make it harder to keep the fridge cool because of the opening in the roof? It would only be a hole large enough to drop the cable through but still, it can't be sealed.
> 
> Any thoughts on this? Or maybe suggestions as opposed to the winch idea??



Maxtor,

I was thinking the exact same thing for me and my cooler (winch idea). You could probably caulk or spray-foam around the winch hole somehow but even if it was slightly open, cold "falls" toward the floor anyway. Here's what I did, though: Late last year, I installed eye hook bolts right next to the gambrel hooks and bought a small pulley to use with 3/8" rope. This year, I tried it with that small doe (and the larger one I shot on Saturday). I also am not that young anymore but am pretty strong. I found it to be a PITA to lift the deer up to the hook bolt for the gambrel using the 3/8" rope and pulley. I considered getting an electric winch or even a manual winch (one with a steel cable) to go through the pulley and attach to the gambrel to lift the deer up to the hook. I would just need to "attach it" somewhere in the cooler so it would be rock solid.

However, it was actually easier for me to "bear hug" the deer and lift it up while my wife guided the gambrel onto the hook bolt (she was standing on a step stool). Took about 30 seconds...and is easier on the wallet!

P.S. Congrats on the 6-point!

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

All I know is there HAS to be an easier method. I'm hell bent to come up with something.


----------



## shanedut

Maxtor said:


> I now know I need to make a change to my fridge and just not sure what or how I'm going to do it. My wife and I had a hell of a time lifting my 6pt up to the hooks on the track in the fridge. We're not 20 anymore and the body isn't capable of things it used to be able to do.
> 
> One thought I have is to install a winch on the roof of the fridge, drill a hole through the roof into the cooler so the winch cable can drop through. This would allow us too lift the deer up too the hooks a lot easier. BUT, I'm thinking, if I do this, won't I make it harder to keep the fridge cool because of the opening in the roof? It would only be a hole large enough to drop the cable through but still, it can't be sealed.
> 
> Any thoughts on this? Or maybe suggestions as opposed to the winch idea??


What if you put the winch on your track at the door that way you can drag the deer up but dont use the gambrel on the legs or hook it on the legs. Instead either choke the cable around the rib cage or just behind the ribs that way you can get the deer high enough? If you put it around the rib cage then you could put ratchet strap it around the cable just under the hind quarters till you had it lifted up and on the hooks.


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> See, the newer Coolbots have more settings on them then my old one. I stuck a 6pt in my fridge last night  so I'll see how mine's running today.
> 
> Hope you got that all straightened out Joe and you're right about the coolbot!!


 hey congrats on the deer PIX?


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> Nope, I certainly haven't. Hung my deer last year for 10 days and couldn't believe how nice the meat was.


And last year, I hung an 8-point for..........*3 1/2 weeks*! The meat was perfect and a nice deep maroon color. I just had the doe in my picture above hanging for 2 weeks straight.

"Aging" Joe


----------



## Maxtor

joaxe said:


> And last year, I hung an 8-point for..........*3 1/2 weeks*! The meat was perfect and a nice deep maroon color. I just had the doe in my picture above hanging for 2 weeks straight.
> 
> "Aging" Joe


3 1/2 weeks? :O I'd be scared to press my luck that long.......lol


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> 3 1/2 weeks? :O I'd be scared to press my luck that long.......lol


C'mon...a few worms and maggot eggs never hurt anyone!! ukey:ukey:ukey:

Seriously, though...the meat was/is perfect and we are still enjoying it! I "drugstore/Christmas"-wrapped each package along with Saran wrap in between each cut and it keeps really well in the freezer.

"Botulism" Joe


----------



## joaxe

Bump for "deer cooler kings" everywhere!

Put another in the cooler on Friday evening...

It was my birthday. What a nice present! 









Joe


----------



## buckeyboy

joaxe said:


> Bump for "deer cooler kings" everywhere!
> 
> Put another in the cooler on Friday evening...
> 
> It was my birthday. What a nice present!
> 
> View attachment 1793354
> 
> 
> Joe


me Too bro.. congrats


----------



## joaxe

Congrats, buckey!!!!!!

Joe


----------



## joesandi

A question for the DIY. How are you sealing around the air conditioner? Just hooking up the coolbot now and then starting it up.

Thanks


----------



## Maxtor

joaxe said:


> Bump for "deer cooler kings" everywhere!
> 
> Put another in the cooler on Friday evening...
> 
> It was my birthday. What a nice present!
> 
> View attachment 1793354
> 
> 
> Joe


Congrats Joe, U need to slow down a bit


----------



## Maxtor

buckeyboy said:


> me Too bro.. congrats


Congrats BB, u guys are putting me to shame. Only one in my fridge so far this year


----------



## Maxtor

joesandi said:


> A question for the DIY. How are you sealing around the air conditioner? Just hooking up the coolbot now and then starting it up.
> 
> Thanks


I stuffed insulation around mine joe and it works fine. Probably no right and wrong way to do it as long as no air is leaking out. Close your fridge with a light inside it. Go around the outside of the fridge and if you can see light anywhere, your air can escape as well. Seal them spots better


----------



## joesandi

Thanks Max,
That's basically what I did. placed insulation, put in great stuff, and caulked. So far so good.


----------



## Awenner85

Man this is the greatest thread ever. But how do you con your wives into it that's my only barricade so far


----------



## joaxe

Awenner85 said:


> Man this is the greatest thread ever. But how do you con your wives into it that's my only barricade so far


I just tell her if she's not careful...she's next in the cooler!!! :wink:

Joe


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> Congrats Joe, U need to slow down a bit


No way, man! Got another one last Saturday. Biggest doe yet!

She's the one with the hide on...









Awwww.....YEAH!!!!

Joe


----------



## Awenner85

Yah I don't know bout that when I'm out in the woods she's watching marathons do the snapped show. It's like a how to guide on killing your husband think I might end up in it lol


----------



## Awenner85

To top it off this thing would be perfect for me in New Mexico just need one big enough for elk quarters


----------



## joaxe

Awenner85 said:


> To top it off this thing would be perfect for me in New Mexico just need one big enough for elk quarters


Start getting your ideas together for a build. Ask any of us who've done it and we'll help you!

Joe


----------



## joaxe

Awenner85 said:


> Yah I don't know bout that when I'm out in the woods she's watching marathons do the snapped show. It's like a how to guide on killing your husband think I might end up in it lol


Oooooooo.....SNAP!

:wink:

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

Awenner85 said:


> Man this is the greatest thread ever. But how do you con your wives into it that's my only barricade so far


Wasn't no convincing to be done for me. My wife hunts with me, helps me clean it and take the hide off, and also helps butcher and package it.


----------



## ycastane

Maxtor said:


> Wasn't no convincing to be done for me. My wife hunts with me, helps me clean it and take the hide off, and also helps butcher and package it.


If i could only find a woman like that!!! LOL


----------



## ycastane

I have a question regarding this coolers. Do you guys just use them to process the deers or to actually store them as well once processed? Just curious!!


----------



## Maxtor

ycastane said:


> I have a question regarding this coolers. Do you guys just use them to process the deers or to actually store them as well once processed? Just curious!!


 I don't know if this would be advisable because the meat needs to be frozen once processed. These coolers are only meant for certain temps, which aren't as low as freezing.


----------



## joaxe

ycastane said:


> I have a question regarding this coolers. Do you guys just use them to process the deers or to actually store them as well once processed? Just curious!!


I've actually kept a meat tub in the cooler with scraps for grinding (for a day or 2) when I was too lazy to bring 'em in the house and grind 'em up. Its just like keeping them in the fridge...

Joe


----------



## Byron

Sweet coolers, guys! Here's some info on the one I built back in the fall of 2008 with the Coolbot: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=829236

After reading through this whole thread, I think I'm going to upgrade my current hanging bar to Unistrut and trolleys.

-Byron


----------



## Musella7474

Awesome builds everyone. Just a little advice, you should always hang your deer by the neck, it helps the deer to stay much cleaner. When you hang it by the hind legs everything collects in the chest cavity. I proccess 400-500 deer a season and i only hang the capes by the hinds. If you guys have any questions about processing feel free to ask.


----------



## Maxtor

Musella7474 said:


> Awesome builds everyone. Just a little advice, you should always hang your deer by the neck, it helps the deer to stay much cleaner. When you hang it by the hind legs everything collects in the chest cavity. I proccess 400-500 deer a season and i only hang the capes by the hinds. If you guys have any questions about processing feel free to ask.


 When you say "everything" collects in the chest cavity, what are you referring too because mine are cleaned right out before hanging.


----------



## Musella7474

The deer still holds blood in the meat, muscle, and tissue. Thats why when its hanging it still will drain some blood. Hanging it by the neck guarantees it to draing completely.


----------



## Byron

Blood doesn't circulate after the heart stops, so it does not move from muscle to muscle, etc.


----------



## buckeyboy

two more in the walk in 36 degrees working like a charm


----------



## buckeyboy

coolers working like a charm 5 deer saw the cooler this year best thing I ever did take all the hurry up and hassle out of the process


----------



## Maxtor

that was nice of you to give them a bucket of feed while they're in there Buckey........lol 

Glad to see the cooler is working out good for you :thumbs_up


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> that was nice of you to give them a bucket of feed while they're in there Buckey........lol
> 
> Glad to see the cooler is working out good for you :thumbs_up


 LOL,,,,,, no thank you, you got this all started .. very pleased with how it works, and have all my money back by processing my own deer


----------



## joaxe

I'm sad...

Processed the lst of my deer in the cooler and switched off the AC unit and Coolbot.

...at least until (maybe) this Saturday! :wink:

P.S. Thanks, again, Maxtor for the idea! It ROCKS!!!

Joe


----------



## joaxe

Sad no more...!!! :wink:









Joe


----------



## Maxtor

well what a crappy season this was, only got to fire up the fridge once for my buck and we never got anything else after that  

At least your getting to use yours a bit Joaxe, nice to see!!


----------



## buckeyboy

for all the guy's looking for a winter project this is it, and the right time of year.
next fall will be here before u know it,, best thing I ever did takes all the stress out of rushing to the butcher, I let two hang for two weeks . nice and tender..


----------



## joaxe

buckeyboy said:


> for all the guy's looking for a winter project this is it, and the right time of year.
> next fall will be here before u know it,, best thing I ever did takes all the stress out of rushing to the butcher, I let two hang for two weeks . nice and tender..


Darn right! I'm actually STILL using mine. Took this doe (#6 for the season) Friday morning.









Absolutely LOVE the Coolbot and my deer cooler!

Joe "Cool"


----------



## buckeyboy

joaxe said:


> Darn right! I'm actually STILL using mine. Took this doe (#6 for the season) Friday morning.
> 
> View attachment 1863701
> 
> 
> Absolutely LOVE the Coolbot and my deer cooler!
> 
> Joe "Cool"


congrats brother, Nice


----------



## Maxtor

I'm kind of glad our season is over, couldn't imagine trudging through all this crappy snow and sitting in these frigid temps........brrrrrrrrr 

Good job Joaxe, keep that fridge running


----------



## jacobh

Great thread guys. I want to make one bad. So if I want to make a 6'x8'x8'high what size ac will I need? Thanks guys


----------



## Maxtor

jacobh said:


> Great thread guys. I want to make one bad. So if I want to make a 6'x8'x8'high what size ac will I need? Thanks guys


 According to the info here: http://www.storeitcold.com/sizebrand.html

You'd be looking at at least a 10,000 but I think I would go with a 12,000 in that. I'd rather have too much then too little


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> According to the info here: http://www.storeitcold.com/sizebrand.html
> 
> You'd be looking at at least a 10,000 but I think I would go with a 12,000 in that. I'd rather have too much then too little


I definitely agree with Maxtor. Size it for a slightly larger room and you'll have no issues cooling it.

BTW, I finally turned mine off until the start of the 2014-15 deer season here in SE PA. It's been awesome! Thanks to Maxtor and all of the DIY peeps on here!

Joe


----------



## Maxtor

Another advantage of going a bit bigger is that your a/c unit won't run as long


----------



## Dare Sportsman

tagged


----------



## jacobh

Thanks guys I have a old ice freezer but it's getting old so will have to build one


----------



## buckeyboy

jacobh said:


> Thanks guys I have a old ice freezer but it's getting old so will have to build one


I have a 12,000 in my 8X8x8 and it works good,, All I can say is insulate insulate insulate.


----------



## jacobh

Yeah turning my shed into one. Gonna get a insulated exterior door and lining the whole inside with 2" blue foundation insulation. U guys think 2" is enough?


----------



## Ravenhunter

Maxtor said:


> All I know is there HAS to be an easier method. I'm hell bent to come up with something.


Use a chain fall. Works great for lifting deer.


----------



## buckeyboy

jacobh said:


> Yeah turning my shed into one. Gonna get a insulated exterior door and lining the whole inside with 2" blue foundation insulation. U guys think 2" is enough?


 Look on craigs list and stuff < I found a market that was going out of business , and got regular walk in cooler panels 9' X 4' for like 8 dollars each scrap yards ... they are like r6" thick with fiberglass board on one side,


----------



## jacobh

Ok will check out craigslist thanks. Just figured I could use a existing building but not sure it would hold in the cold! Thanks


----------



## buckeyboy

jacobh said:


> Ok will check out craigslist thanks. Just figured I could use a existing building but not sure it would hold in the cold! Thanks


the more insulation the better and the floor is a must to insulate..


----------



## jacobh

Ok thank u sir I greatly appreciate it!!


----------



## jacobh

Those who used fiberglass insulation. Hows the cold hold up inside? If I can't find panels I was thinking fiberglass insulation inside 2x4s then plastic then 1/2" or 3/4" rigid foam. Walls ceiling and floor. Will that be sufficient enough?


----------



## jacobh

Just a FYI guys I found coolbots on ebay 3 left for $249.99 that's $50 off if anyone is interested


----------



## buckeyboy

nice fine what generation cool bot ?


----------



## jacobh

U know what it didn't say. Just says all brand new. They took one out of box for pics. They ship from Canada and only on certain dates next shipment is March 6th


----------



## midget

Home Brew Talk has a ton of information about building these. Because brewing good beer requires stable and repeatable temperatures, people over there have found tons of modifications and ways to improve things. Cool Bot actually was started as a project over there if my memory serves me.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/gtsearch.php?cx=016873362520281466893%3Axvnx8yvgpla&cof=FORID%3A11&q=walk+in&sa=Go&siteurl=www.homebrewtalk.com%2Ff51%2F&ref=www.homebrewtalk.com%2Fforum.php&ss=544j52194j7&siteurl=www.homebrewtalk.com%2Ff51%2F&ref=www.homebrewtalk.com%2Fforum.php&ss=544j52194j7


----------



## joaxe

jacobh said:


> Those who used fiberglass insulation. Hows the cold hold up inside? If I can't find panels I was thinking fiberglass insulation inside 2x4s then plastic then 1/2" or 3/4" rigid foam. Walls ceiling and floor. Will that be sufficient enough?


jacobh,

Don't know what section of the country you are in but I'm in SE PA. Until this winter, it never really got super cold (in recent memory) but we had single digits temps a lot this winter.

I emailed Ron Khosla (Coolbot inventor) and he said that 2x4 contruction using the "pink panther" roll insulation is fine as long as the inside of the cooler was using 2" (or better) foam - I had explained that I was just going to use the cooler to hang deer during the season here in SE PA. Look back on this thread and you'll see my build. That design is similar to the Kentucky school build that is featured on the storeitcold.com site.

It works GREAT!

I had outside temps in the 70's and the cooler temp inside reached 36 degrees (at the lowest) and stayed right at the Coolbot setting of 38 degrees. The first deer I had in there was a nice 8-pt. that hung for 3 weeks! The meat was PERFECT! My cooler was built as a 6'x8'x7' box inside my 2-car detached garage. I am using a 10,000 BTU LG air conditioner and the Coolbot. I had to insulate the floor with Owens-Corning Foamular 250 sheets and laid OSB plywood on top of the insulation. That made a significant difference in retaining the cold air (which sinks). You are going to want 2" or more of rigid foam for the walls and ceiling (I'd now even recommend that for the floor) along with the fiberglass insulation. Make sure to face the vapor barrier to the "outside" of the cooler (which is the warmer side).

Let us know if you have any questions!

"Aero" Joe


----------



## jacobh

Joe sent u a pm thanks guys


----------



## joaxe

jacobh said:


> Joe sent u a pm thanks guys


Got it, sir, and replied.

"Aero" Joe


----------



## jacobh

Anyone make one out of a old shed? Just wondering as that's what I'm doing. My concerns are 
1: it is kind of in the open
2: it's a existing building so insulating the floor will be a challenges as the walls are built on the plywood
3: would insulating be enough around the eaves? Or will they have to be blocked and insulated?
I'm going to do R 13 insulation with vapor barrier and 2" foam insulation. Floor I was gonna do a 2" foam insulation with osb on top. Will this be sufficient?


----------



## hONORSTICK

jacobh said:


> Anyone make one out of a old shed? Just wondering as that's what I'm doing. My concerns are
> 1: it is kind of in the open
> 2: it's a existing building so insulating the floor will be a challenges as the walls are built on the plywood
> 3: would insulating be enough around the eaves? Or will they have to be blocked and insulated?
> I'm going to do R 13 insulation with vapor barrier and 2" foam insulation. Floor I was gonna do a 2" foam insulation with osb on top. Will this be sufficient?


Just remember that cold air sinks so if you don't have your floor well insulated you're going to lose a lot of cold out the bottom.


----------



## jacobh

Thanks yeah coolbot got back to me today 2" foam insulation on the floor is sufficient enough from what they told me. R13 in walls and 2" foam inside is all u need. They have fantastic customer service. Very quick response time






hONORSTICK said:


> Just remember that cold air sinks so if you don't have your floor well insulated you're going to lose a lot of cold out the bottom.


----------



## joaxe

jacobh said:


> Thanks yeah coolbot got back to me today 2" foam insulation on the floor is sufficient enough from what they told me. R13 in walls and 2" foam inside is all u need. They have fantastic customer service. Very quick response time


Scott,

Talk to Ron Khosla over at storeitcold.com. He is the man (and inventor)! He'll help you with your build and any questions you have. Tell him I sent ya!

"Aero" Joe


----------



## rodshoyt

Maxtor said:


> Today everything got 3 coats of Varathane. Tomorrow I have to install an outlet in my garage for the AC unit and then hopefully I will be lag bolting everything together.


whats going to be your total cost on this? great idea


----------



## joaxe

rodshoyt said:


> whats going to be your total cost on this? great idea


rodshoyt,

I figure I have about $1300 total (or near there) into mine. Biggest expenses were the Coolbot ($300) and the AC unit ($325). I had some of the lumber for the 2x4 frame. The Dow Super-Tuff R sheets were about $33 a sheet. The insulated steel door was $160. I'm estimating between 3-5 years to break even vs. the cost of processing.

"Aero" Joe


----------



## Maxtor

rodshoyt - I think I probably have about $450 - $500 invested. Coolbot was the biggest expense because I just bought a used a/c instead of a new one and only paid $30 for it.


----------



## buckeyboy

maybe 500 in mine , but got my ac for free..


----------



## Maxtor

Wanted to bump this up since we're edging towards deer season and it'll give people time to build one if they see this


----------



## Reddy

I made a 8x10 walk-in cooler for my wife she is a florist. I used 2x4's for the walls and roof, bat insulation and 1.5" ridged insulation on the inside and out walls ended up like 7" thick, I put it in the garage and put down 2" ridged insulation then covered that with 3/4" ply wood, used a oak pre hung door glued ridged insulation 1.5" inside and out and a small 8000 or 10000 (I can't remember) btu window unit with the coolbot and man let me tell ya IT WORKS!!! The better you seal your cooler and make it air right the better off you are mine holds at 34deg if I want and won't freeze. The A/C unit runs on energy saver mode about 1 min every 5. I couldn't believe how well it worked. There are other ways to trick window units but I KNOW that coolbot works just like it's advertised.


----------



## Reddy

I should also mention she only needs it to run for 3 days at a time she does flowers for weddings so the garage is already cool it's not outside fighting 90deg sun. We open the garage every day to let fresh air in of the 2 to 3 days at a time she needs it. But even if it was outside I still think it would get to at least 37 to 38deg on hot days.


----------



## UpstateSC85

tagged


----------



## joaxe

I am going to seal my cooler even more this summer. I still need to place a plastic sheet under the foam that is sitting on my garage slab (cooler floor). I also want to seal up any cracks that might be in the cooler walls/ceiling. To do this, I plan to put a really bright light inside the cooler then walk around the "box" at night to note any visible light leaking through the cooler. That will also be where the cold leaks out. I also need to glue foam sheets to the insulated steel door surfaces and install more weatherstripping along the door frame. Thinking about also rigging up some sort of winch to hoist deer up to the gambrel hooks.

Even the way it is now, the cooler works awesome!

"Aero" Joe


----------



## buckeyboy

I also will be adding a winch to mine . best thing I did was score those walk in cooler panels for 8 bucks each.. stays extremely cold..




Guys are going to want to start building soon... Lets see those Builds


----------



## Reddy

I also put a vapor barrier as well and I also Great Stuffed every seem from the inside. That helps big time.


----------



## sheepdogg

Tag for interest


----------



## martin c

buckeyboy said:


> I also will be adding a winch to mine . best thing I did was score those walk in cooler panels for 8 bucks each.. stays extremely cold..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guys are going to want to start building soon... Lets see those Builds



For the guys following this thread you might want to look at the new KE2 Temp w/defrost cooler control instead of the Coolbot. I know early on several people discussed using the Ranco ETC11000 digital tstat as an option but it doesn't have the defrost sensor and control that the Coolbot does. The KE2 Temp controller does have the sensor and defrost cycle. The best part is the KE2 control sells for around $129.00 to $ 149.00 or so. Here's a link to the spec page http://ke2therm.com/productstemp.html

Martin


----------



## Maxtor

martin c said:


> For the guys following this thread you might want to look at the new KE2 Temp w/defrost cooler control instead of the Coolbot. I know early on several people discussed using the Ranco ETC11000 digital tstat as an option but it doesn't have the defrost sensor and control that the Coolbot does. The KE2 Temp controller does have the sensor and defrost cycle. The best part is the KE2 control sells for around $129.00 to $ 149.00 or so. Here's a link to the spec page http://ke2therm.com/productstemp.html
> 
> Martin


 They also have the KE2 Low Temp and Defrost which may be better suited for what we want to do with it


----------



## martin c

Maxtor said:


> They also have the KE2 Low Temp and Defrost which may be better suited for what we want to do with it


You are correct Maxtor, depending on the temps you want to keep. I work for a wholesale HVAC/Refrigeration Supply house and have access to just about anything in the refrigeration field. Our "street price" is $129.00 but it can be bought cheaper than that.. I'm currently working on a project that will be mobile so I can leave it at the hunt camp. It involves a double door "ice merchandiser", a generator and a old utility trailer that'll hold temps low enough that I could still keep ice frozen if need be..

Martin


----------



## handirifle

martin c said:


> You are correct Maxtor, depending on the temps you want to keep. I work for a wholesale HVAC/Refrigeration Supply house and have access to just about anything in the refrigeration field. Our "street price" is $129.00 but it can be bought cheaper than that.. I'm currently working on a project that will be mobile so I can leave it at the hunt camp. It involves a double door "ice merchandiser", a generator and a old utility trailer that'll hold temps low enough that I could still keep ice frozen if need be..
> 
> Martin


What is the difference between the colbot and this item. Sounds like the bot uses actual coil temps and this one uses a timer, or is it activated by temp and the timer, times the defrost cycle?


----------



## nick060200

anyone know the minimum height you can make one where a deer can hang from a gambrel and its head not hit the floor? im thinking 7.5'.


----------



## Maxtor

nick060200 said:


> anyone know the minimum height you can make one where a deer can hang from a gambrel and its head not hit the floor? im thinking 7.5'.


 That would be my guess as well because I made mine at 6' and certainly wish I would have went taller


----------



## DougKMN

nick060200 said:


> anyone know the minimum height you can make one where a deer can hang from a gambrel and its head not hit the floor? im thinking 7.5'.


7.5 feet might be too low, depending on how big your deer are and the hardware you use for your gambrel.

I have at least 8 foot ceilings in my garage, possibly taller, and it is low enough that a larger deer could potentially touch the floor. I had a 1.5 year old buck whose antlers stopped about 4 inches from the floor.

I would estimate that the hoist hardware added about ten inches.


----------



## joaxe

nick060200 said:


> anyone know the minimum height you can make one where a deer can hang from a gambrel and its head not hit the floor? im thinking 7.5'.


I think my cooler is about 7' from floor to ceiling. I've had a large, mature doe and a 2 year old 8-point buck in there and didn't have any problems. I make sure to cut the legs off at the "knee" joint and can get them pretty close to the ceiling when on the gambrel. One time, I didn't cut the rear legs off of a doe and her head was resting on the cooler floor. It didn't make any difference in the quality of the aged meat, though.

"Aero" Joe


----------



## buckeyboy

Best thing I ever did was build my cooler. I love it,,,


----------



## joaxe

buckeyboy said:


> Best thing I ever did was build my cooler. I love it,,,


I agree!!! Thanks again, Maxtor, for the original DIY build idea!

"Aero" Joe


----------



## Maxtor

buckeyboy said:


> Best thing I ever did was build my cooler. I love it,,,


 Couldn't agree with this more. Has paid for itself long ago and it's also something I enjoy doing


----------



## Maxtor

joaxe said:


> I agree!!! Thanks again, Maxtor, for the original DIY build idea!
> 
> "Aero" Joe


 Thanks joaxe, but this thread has many involved that should be thanked because of all their great ideas and pictures!!


----------



## buckeyboy

hey fellas how or did you guys mount a hoist?


----------



## Maxtor

buckeyboy said:


> hey fellas how or did you guys mount a hoist?


 I do have an electric hoist mounted but it's outside of the fridge. I don't think my fridge is large enough to pull off a mount on the inside


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> I do have an electric hoist mounted but it's outside of the fridge. I don't think my fridge is large enough to pull off a mount on the inside


Had a hard time lifting the deer to hang them ill come up with something and post some pictures


----------



## Maxtor

buckeyboy said:


> Had a hard time lifting the deer to hang them ill come up with something and post some pictures


 Trust me, you and me both. One deer I didn't think the wife and I would be able to get it hung up there. I too plan on coming up with something to make it easier, just not sure what yet


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> Trust me, you and me both. One deer I didn't think the wife and I would be able to get it hung up there. I too plan on coming up with something to make it easier, just not sure what yet


I may just get one of these , 24 99 gear ratio 4:1 nothing fancy but it will work


----------



## joaxe

With the limited headroom in my cooler, I picked up one of these to mount to a side wall.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-hand-winch-65688.html

I'll probably make a wooden mounting plate for the winch and lag bolt it through the foam panels and into the 2x4 wall studs. My father-in-law said he has a ATV winch that he will give me. I would need to mount it the same way and then have a 12V battery handy for it. I already have strong eye hooks installed next to each gambrel hook.

"Aero" Joe


----------



## S.Alder

Watchinh


----------



## buckeyboy

Any body turn theirs on yet this year ? 
Thought more guys would be building. Don't know how I did without it 
Now if I get a deer late Sunday. No worries throw it in the cooler


----------



## joesandi

Thought about turning mine on, but will wait 2 more weeks until the season opens.


----------



## Maxtor

Hope to be firing mine up within the next week or so


----------



## depogrig

I've got a stack ofdonated walk in cooler wall panels to build one but doubt I'll have time to do it for this year


----------



## Maxtor

depogrig said:


> I've got a stack ofdonated walk in cooler wall panels to build one but doubt I'll have time to do it for this year


 Oh man, that would drive me crazy knowing those are sitting there and can't build..........lol


----------



## depogrig

I know it


----------



## buckeyboy

Tested mine today. Working fine. 
It's 89 out cooler was 37 degrees in about an Hoyt and half


----------



## Maxtor

buckeyboy said:


> Tested mine today. Working fine.
> It's 89 out cooler was 37 degrees in about an Hoyt and half


 Just curious, what's a "hoyt and a half"?? lol


----------



## GDA

I have a coolbot if anyone wants it I don't use it anymore. Sell it for 150.00 works great. I up graded to a walk in with a cooling unit already in it.


----------



## hooiserarcher

I got my cooler moved to my new house today. Come on deer season!


----------



## hooiserarcher

GDA said:


> I have a coolbot if anyone wants it I don't use it anymore. Sell it for 150.00 works great. I up graded to a walk in with a cooling unit already in it.


Somebody jump on that!


----------



## buckeyboy

hooiserarcher said:


> Somebody jump on that!


That's a good deal , classifides might get a bite


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> Just curious, what's a "hoyt and a half"?? lol


spell check Hour and 1/2 smarty pants... LOL


----------



## hooiserarcher

Got my cooler wired up and set in its new (and last) home. Fired it up yesterday with an outside temp @ 91° within one hour it was 42° and checked it an hour later it was holding the set temp @ 38°


----------



## Maxtor

good to hear hooiser, ur ready to go. Still haven't fired mine up yet but will be soon. Today would have been a good test for it with all the humidity we had


----------



## buckeyboy

I cant believe there aren't more guys building these , My cooler has made life so much easier.


----------



## thwackaddict

buckeyboy said:


> I cant believe there aren't more guys building these , My cooler has made life so much easier.


I would love to! But I am afraid I may have to build a "warmer" with the way MO weather has been headed. Something to keep the meat from freezing before you get it cut up. Of course this is due to global warming. LOL


----------



## joesandi

So who has drilled a hole in the air conditioner to get rid of water build up and went to far with the drill and ruined it? Besides me last week.


----------



## Maxtor

joesandi said:


> So who has drilled a hole in the air conditioner to get rid of water build up and went to far with the drill and ruined it? Besides me last week.


oh sh*t, really? That sucks. Weird thing is, I don't think I've ever seen water drip from the one I have in the fridge. Maybe it's because my fridge is inside my garage and it makes a difference ?? could also be because it's usually cold out that time of year so there is no water build up


----------



## joesandi

Maxtor said:


> oh sh*t, really? That sucks. Weird thing is, I don't think I've ever seen water drip from the one I have in the fridge. Maybe it's because my fridge is inside my garage and it makes a difference ?? could also be because it's usually cold out that time of year so there is no water build up


My set up is in my pole shed. I started the cooler to make sure everything was working. It cooled it right down to 37`. Great, turned it off and let it sit until 2 days before season. Started it up and it would only cool down to 45`????. Went on line to coolbot and looked at the trouble shooting. went out and didn't see any drain hole or water as a matter a fact. Started it up again and notice water spitting outside the cooler. O-k get a drill and drill a hole. Went carefully slow so I wouldn't hit anything. Just as the drill bit went thru, it hit the freon(not sure what's used in the new ones) line and release all the pressure. If I would have gone less then an inch forward or back I would have been fine. Guess it was my lucky day. Bought a new one and works like a charm.


----------



## bowslam

buckeyboy said:


> hey fellas how or did you guys mount a hoist?


I'm building a walk-in now, but trying to figure out this part of it ...... the best hoist & sliding hook system. Anybody have a good way to get these deer onto sliders, alone? Always nice when there's help but more often than not I'm alone. Ashame to have a nice cooler but no good way to get the deer up onto the gambrels inside!! And where do most of you get your sliding-hook system/tracks from? I've been looking around but haven't been able to find much. Thanks. Great thread!!


----------



## davis.zacharyj

Once upon a time I built something similar using a Ranco ETC and I built it directly on the concrete over a floor drain so that all of the drippings could drain off and not soak into anything. Also paneled the inside with FRP paneling and sealed with silicone. Used foam board and expanding foam insulation and wrapped the outside with radiant barrier and 1/2" ply. Worked great for me only running it a month at a time and as far as I know it's still being used by the guy I sold it to.


----------



## markovian

i can add some things hear 

window ac units whall posible do lack the power regardless the coolbot will probly work but for how long is another question ...

they use lower preshure systems for large cold rooms to cope with lifespan 

lets just say if the ac unit ur useing breaks ur out what 300 and once it breaks u can guess thats ur lifespan 

just a thought tho i know people so maby easyer for me to just simple have a good tech convert or build u a system 

i can always give a call on this for u have family members that really know about large cold room ac systems they service them 

but from my understanding the window unit will burnout 

also tho i think if flawlessly insolated and not oppened offten i cant see why it wont work 

if ur going with it my number one pice of advice a dehumidifyer 

even hear in las vegas we can freeze a ac unit over quick with low condenor coil temps the dehumidifyer may sabe u alot of problems and ofcourse meat will store better less ice all that with less humidity


----------



## Maxtor

markovian said:


> i can add some things hear
> 
> window ac units whall posible do lack the power regardless the coolbot will probly work but for how long is another question ...
> 
> they use lower preshure systems for large cold rooms to cope with lifespan
> 
> lets just say if the ac unit ur useing breaks ur out what 300 and once it breaks u can guess thats ur lifespan
> 
> just a thought tho i know people so maby easyer for me to just simple have a good tech convert or build u a system
> 
> i can always give a call on this for u have family members that really know about large cold room ac systems they service them
> 
> but from my understanding the window unit will burnout
> 
> also tho i think if flawlessly insolated and not oppened offten i cant see why it wont work
> 
> if ur going with it my number one pice of advice a dehumidifyer
> 
> even hear in las vegas we can freeze a ac unit over quick with low condenor coil temps the dehumidifyer may sabe u alot of problems and ofcourse meat will store better less ice all that with less humidity


 Well, I've had mine running 4 years now and the a/c unit I'm using I bought used. Friend of mine has had his running for an easy 10 years now and still on the same a/c unit, so I think the window a/c units have more then paid for themselves now. And a dehumidifier isn't needed because the meat dries out just perfectly now as is, wouldn't want it any dryer. Never had any issues with ice and the storage of the meat can't get any better, at least not for me. Coolbot ROCKS, bottom line!!


----------



## buckeyboy

mines running great tooooooo!


----------



## FearNot

I built mine 4 years ago and it's been a sweet setup!


----------



## buckeyboy

markovian said:


> i can add some things hear
> 
> window ac units whall posible do lack the power regardless the coolbot will probly work but for how long is another question ...
> 
> they use lower preshure systems for large cold rooms to cope with lifespan
> 
> lets just say if the ac unit ur useing breaks ur out what 300 and once it breaks u can guess thats ur lifespan
> 
> just a thought tho i know people so maby easyer for me to just simple have a good tech convert or build u a system
> 
> i can always give a call on this for u have family members that really know about large cold room ac systems they service them
> 
> but from my understanding the window unit will burnout
> 
> also tho i think if flawlessly insolated and not oppened offten i cant see why it wont work
> 
> if ur going with it my number one pice of advice a dehumidifyer
> 
> even hear in las vegas we can freeze a ac unit over quick with low condenor coil temps the dehumidifyer may sabe u alot of problems and ofcourse meat will store better less ice all that with less humidity


_ thought my spelling was bad Holy Chit......._


----------



## joaxe

markovian said:


> i can add some things hear
> 
> window ac units whall posible do lack the power regardless the coolbot will probly work but for how long is another question ...
> 
> they use lower preshure systems for large cold rooms to cope with lifespan
> 
> lets just say if the ac unit ur useing breaks ur out what 300 and once it breaks u can guess thats ur lifespan
> 
> just a thought tho i know people so maby easyer for me to just simple have a good tech convert or build u a system
> 
> i can always give a call on this for u have family members that really know about large cold room ac systems they service them
> 
> but from my understanding the window unit will burnout
> 
> also tho i think if flawlessly insolated and not oppened offten i cant see why it wont work
> 
> if ur going with it my number one pice of advice a dehumidifyer
> 
> even hear in las vegas we can freeze a ac unit over quick with low condenor coil temps the dehumidifyer may sabe u alot of problems and ofcourse meat will store better less ice all that with less humidity


Easy to post your *opinion*...

Hard to dispute *over 18,000 Coolbot units sold* and working......perfectly (including mine).

The product is an absolute no-brainer for this type of DIY project. I've had 2 doe in mine for the past 3 weeks! Simply works AWESOME!

"Aero" Joe


----------



## hooiserarcher

markovian said:


> i can add some things hear
> 
> window ac units whall posible do lack the power regardless the coolbot will probly work but for how long is another question ...
> 
> they use lower preshure systems for large cold rooms to cope with lifespan
> 
> lets just say if the ac unit ur useing breaks ur out what 300 and once it breaks u can guess thats ur lifespan
> 
> just a thought tho i know people so maby easyer for me to just simple have a good tech convert or build u a system
> 
> i can always give a call on this for u have family members that really know about large cold room ac systems they service them
> 
> but from my understanding the window unit will burnout
> 
> also tho i think if flawlessly insolated and not oppened offten i cant see why it wont work
> 
> if ur going with it my number one pice of advice a dehumidifyer
> 
> even hear in las vegas we can freeze a ac unit over quick with low condenor coil temps the dehumidifyer may sabe u alot of problems and ofcourse meat will store better less ice all that with less humidity


After trying to decipher your post I will give my EXPERIENCE (opinions are like.......well you know) 
My cooler is on its 3rd season with same A/C And coolbot. I turn the cooler on the last weekend of September and it stays on until late December/ early January. 
Averages $15.00/ month to run and preforms flawlessly. I literally plug it up and forget about it. 
Any more opinions you would like to jumble?


----------



## joaxe

Well...I just shut off my cooler last night after finally processing the last of the 2 doe I shot on opening day here in SE PA. That's the longest I've let deer hang in the cooler (1 month?!?!?!?!) due to just plain being too busy. Beyond the normal skinning over (drying) of the outer layer, the rest of the meat was perfect! All wrapped now and in the freezer.

The Coolbot ROCKS!!!

I'll be out this Friday looking to fill 'er back up again! :wink:

"Aero" Joe


----------



## Maxtor

Taking off with the wife and camper for a full week of hunting. Hope to be putting something in the fridge after this


----------



## timber.adam

Tagged for later


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## buckeyboy

5 deer going in mine this afternoon,,, thank god I built this thing love it buys you time worth every stinking penny


----------



## buckeyboy

new Jersey trip a success deer in my cooler


----------



## brandon170

Tagged for later


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## Maxtor

Congrats Buckeyboy..... So far our week trip is paying off, had to make a trip home last night to stick a buck in the fridge. Let me tell you, this is one time for sure that this fridge has payed off because it was 68 degrees out when we brought that buck home so you can imagine how fast the meat was warming up. Quick clean out of the cavity and in the fridge he went!! Now back to our camper today and hopefully bring another one home before the week's done


----------



## Bowhuntertim214

bowslam said:


> I'm building a walk-in now, but trying to figure out this part of it ...... the best hoist & sliding hook system. Anybody have a good way to get these deer onto sliders, alone? Always nice when there's help but more often than not I'm alone. Ashame to have a nice cooler but no good way to get the deer up onto the gambrels inside!! And where do most of you get your sliding-hook system/tracks from? I've been looking around but haven't been able to find much. Thanks. Great thread!!


We've always just had a hoist or winch mounted in to the ceiling above the track (or hanging from the track if that's the only option). You drag the deer in the cooler and hook the winch to the gambrel to raise it up to just slightly higher than the hook on the slider, then lower it so that the slider hook takes the weight and you're all good. As long as you have a proper pully or winch syste, it's super easy for one person to do.


----------



## Maxtor

Unfortunately due to the height of my fridge something like that isn't possible. But I DO have to design something, that's for sure!!


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> Unfortunately due to the height of my fridge something like that isn't possible. But I DO have to design something, that's for sure!!


I have to cut the back legs off no big deal....


----------



## Sammael55

epic thread.


----------



## Maxtor

Been meaning to post this here since it has to do with what we are all trying to accomplish, processing our own game. If anyone is looking for a meat grinder to do your own burger, here is one I've had for some time and highly recommend.

http://www.amazon.com/STX-INTERNATI...&sr=8-1&keywords=stx+turbo+force+meat+grinder

This thing works amazing without being really hard on the pocket book. Definitely well worth what I spent on it


----------



## joaxe

Maxtor said:


> Been meaning to post this here since it has to do with what we are all trying to accomplish, processing our own game. If anyone is looking for a meat grinder to do your own burger, here is one I've had for some time and highly recommend.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/STX-INTERNATI...&sr=8-1&keywords=stx+turbo+force+meat+grinder
> 
> This thing works amazing without being really hard on the pocket book. Definitely well worth what I spent on it


Maxtor,

Looks like a very nice, affordable grinder! Sort of looks like the one I bought from Cabela's a few years ago before they changed suppliers and the look of their lower-end grinders. However, it looks like this STX grinder has a metal auger gear, not a plastic one like my Cabela's grinder. Nice!!!

If I could also add...would-be home deer processors can definitely benefit from having a good boning knife (think Victorinox/Forschner or Mundial) and some how-to videos like these that I own:

Outdoor Edge's Deer and Big Game Processing (aka Deer Processing 101) - hosted by Brad Lockwood (this is an excellent video)
Wild Game Field Care and Cooking - hosted by Chef (and hunter) Milos Cihelka (very good video with some "old school" techniques)
The Ultimate Deer Processing Video - hosted by Chef (and hunter) Rick Gollinger (another very good video)

And my new favorite processing video that I just bought this week...

Cutting Deer Right - hosted by Kurt Heid from Heid Wild Game (this is, hands down, the best video I have ever seen on a complete breakdown (boning out) of a deer)

Let's get processing, my "cool" peeps! 

"Aero" Joe


----------



## joessmokin

Over 4 years and this thread is still going glad to see. I have had my cooler up and running since Sep. this year and had lots of friends hanging deer. I still have not got into the woods yet this year, but will get out soon.

Joe


----------



## joesandi

Ok, so it is 5 out side right now, what is everyone doing to keep there coolers from dropping below freezing? My cooler is in my pole shed and when it gets cold I have to leave my 100 watt light on to keep it at/above freezing. Just curious if there is something else that can be done.


----------



## Maxtor

joesandi said:


> Ok, so it is 5 out side right now, what is everyone doing to keep there coolers from dropping below freezing? My cooler is in my pole shed and when it gets cold I have to leave my 100 watt light on to keep it at/above freezing. Just curious if there is something else that can be done.


 Unfortunately Joesandi I don't know how to answer that because I've never run into that situation yet. But the way this winter is looking it might happen


----------



## buckeyboy

Maxtor said:


> Congrats Buckeyboy..... So far our week trip is paying off, had to make a trip home last night to stick a buck in the fridge. Let me tell you, this is one time for sure that this fridge has payed off because it was 68 degrees out when we brought that buck home so you can imagine how fast the meat was warming up. Quick clean out of the cavity and in the fridge he went!! Now back to our camper today and hopefully bring another one home before the week's done


AWSOME One of the best things I did was build this congrats on the buck


----------



## SwitchbckXT

Awesome thread guys, so glad I can learn from you all. Have any of you guys built drain floors in your coolers? I'm building a 10x10x10 stainless interior cooler and I'm looking for some ideas for the drain floor. I'm going to run water and electric inside the cooler so I can butcher and clean all in one spot but I want to put in a floor with a drain and looking for some ideas. Also looking for pointers on a well built door system that will seal well?!? Thanks for any help


----------



## jasboj

joesandi said:


> Ok, so it is 5 out side right now, what is everyone doing to keep there coolers from dropping below freezing? My cooler is in my pole shed and when it gets cold I have to leave my 100 watt light on to keep it at/above freezing. Just curious if there is something else that can be done.


Just my thoughts but insulation should work both ways to keep it warm and cool. I would think extra insulation effort would keep the interior from reaching such extremely cold Temps inside. At the bare minimum it would require less effort to keep the interior your desired temp.


----------



## Maxtor

SwitchbckXT said:


> Awesome thread guys, so glad I can learn from you all. Have any of you guys built drain floors in your coolers? I'm building a 10x10x10 stainless interior cooler and I'm looking for some ideas for the drain floor. I'm going to run water and electric inside the cooler so I can butcher and clean all in one spot but I want to put in a floor with a drain and looking for some ideas. Also looking for pointers on a well built door system that will seal well?!? Thanks for any help


 Sorry, can't help you with the drain idea Switch as I didn't go that route with mine. As you can see in my first pics, I just built a simple door and it works great. But I'm assuming since you're building a big stainless cooler, you're going to want something more elaborate


----------



## SwitchbckXT

Thanks


----------



## trapperBR549

There are a couple of posts in this thread about guys wanting to build a portable unit. This is my goal as well. Unfortunately none of them posted any follow up.
I did see some how to's on CoolBot's site which gave me some ideas.
I have considered building one I can roll or somehow load on a trailer that we already have.
I have also considered getting a cargo trailer and having spray in insultation on the walls and ceiling and pink/blue foam plus plywood on the floor.
One other thing I would like to be able to do is use it for a smoke house and a place to hang our dry cure sausage.
Anybody ever done any of this stuff and have any thoughts or advice.


----------



## Maxtor

trapperBR549 said:


> There are a couple of posts in this thread about guys wanting to build a portable unit. This is my goal as well. Unfortunately none of them posted any follow up.
> I did see some how to's on CoolBot's site which gave me some ideas.
> I have considered building one I can roll or somehow load on a trailer that we already have.
> I have also considered getting a cargo trailer and having spray in insultation on the walls and ceiling and pink/blue foam plus plywood on the floor.
> One other thing I would like to be able to do is use it for a smoke house and a place to hang our dry cure sausage.
> Anybody ever done any of this stuff and have any thoughts or advice.


 The way mine is built (shown in pics at beginning) if I wanted too, I could easily load it into a trailer and take it somewhere else to use. If I were to build it again, what I would do, instead of screwing the walls and ceiling all together, I'd use lag bolts somehow. This way I could just remove the lags bolts allowing me to load it in 5 separate pieces.


----------



## trapperBR549

Thanks for the reply. I don't want to disassemble it to move it. We have an electric outlet at our deer camp so I'd like to be able to drive it up, plug it in, and hang deer as we kill them. Then just drive home and plug it in.
I really like the idea of using it as a smoker and sausage curing room as well. Right now we are at the mercy of the weather for sausage curing. It is a variable I'd like to be able to eliminate.


----------



## drex88

tag


----------



## yoda

trouble with using it as a smoke house as well as a cooler 

is all the tar residue that is created from the smoke and it aint easy to get rid of 
plus there is a lot of heat produced with the sawdust
one would have to have a separate smouldering unit ----------------and pipe into the cold room 
been there done that crap idea


----------



## VABowKill

in for later


----------



## switchback7595

I must build one like this but why can't I just use a window ac unit and keep temps down around 55 deg for a day or two untill I have time to quater it up and butcher it ? it's always a real chore after gutting skinning and quartering all in the same day


----------



## ryans127

This thread is amazing. Tagged for later down the road when I can build one!!


----------



## joesandi

Started mine up to make sure still works. After about an hour or so it was running at 37`. Shut it down and waiting on bringing in the potatoes and apples. Hoping I get to use it for deer soon. Good luck everyone filling there coolers.


----------



## Maxtor

switchback7595 said:


> I must build one like this but why can't I just use a window ac unit and keep temps down around 55 deg for a day or two untill I have time to quater it up and butcher it ? it's always a real chore after gutting skinning and quartering all in the same day


 That's a bad temperature range for food-borne bacteria to start growing. That's why we keep our fridges below 40º, to prevent this


----------



## clbrown23

What a great thread AT. Love all the good advice and willingness to help each other modify the coolers to fit each person individuals needs/wants. This is how the whole site should be.

Has anyone ever thought about making a walk in cooler out of a shipping/storage container? Seems to me like it would work pretty good if you could figure out how to insulate it well. Would be nice to have and easy to load up and haul if I ever moved one day. 

Anyone have any good ideas/suggestions on the best way to insulate one? 
TIA

Calvin


----------



## Maxtor

clbrown23 said:


> What a great thread AT. Love all the good advice and willingness to help each other modify the coolers to fit each person individuals needs/wants. This is how the whole site should be.
> 
> Has anyone ever thought about making a walk in cooler out of a shipping/storage container? Seems to me like it would work pretty good if you could figure out how to insulate it well. Would be nice to have and easy to load up and haul if I ever moved one day.
> 
> Anyone have any good ideas/suggestions on the best way to insulate one?
> TIA
> 
> Calvin


 Personally, if it was me, I'd see how much it would cost to have someone come in and spray the whole inside with that spray foam insulation. Don't think you'd be able to insulate it any better then that and I can't see it costing very much.


----------



## Pittstate23

awesome thread, i can't believe i haven't seen this yet.


----------



## garbr95

What's the floor of this cooler made out of and how is it attached to the walls? Or is it just the concrete floor of your garage?


----------



## joaxe

garbr95 said:


> What's the floor of this cooler made out of and how is it attached to the walls? Or is it just the concrete floor of your garage?


garbr95,

Well...for my cooler, I built it as a 6x8 room (2x4 construction) in my detached 2-car garage. So, the "floor" is the actual concrete slab of the garage. Now to combat losing cold air through the slab (it will try to equalize between the cold air from the cooler and the constant ground temp under the slab), I used Owens Corning "FOAMULAR 250" (interlocking pink rigid insulation panels) on the slab then covered that with OSB plywood and used Great Stuff spray foam on all the edges.

I wanted to lay down some 9 mil poly sheets then the FOAMULAR and plywood last season...just never got around to it.

Anyway...they don't seem to mind...added deer #3 recently.

"Aero" Joe


----------



## SwitchbckXT

Just though I'd post a pic of the pseudo-finished project, haven't been on here much since I started but I can say that this thread was not only the driving force behind my cooler but an absolute wealth of knowledge! I can post more pics if guys want to see. The walls and ceiling of my cooler are a latch together panel system which I bought at a commercial food auction for 125 bucks. (I couldn't buy the lumber to frame it for that so I went this route insteadof a full build which I had planned) Inside is stainless steel and exterior is galvanized metal. I had to build a floor and a door as well as fabricate the meat trolley system, winch, and adjustable butcher table. The cooler measures 8'D x 10'T x 10'W...gives me enough room to do all my butchering, and stuffing with my equipment and I can hang probably 10 deer if I had to . I've had these two hanging for a few days in 34-36degree temps.










Good luck to all the guys looking to build and fill walkins...this was a dream if mine come true!

I don't have any butcher equipment in the cooler yet bc these are first two deer I've put in. I'll be butchering this weekend


----------



## Maxtor

SwitchbckXT said:


> Just though I'd post a pic of the pseudo-finished project, haven't been on here much since I started but I can say that this thread was not only the driving force behind my cooler but an absolute wealth of knowledge! I can post more pics if guys want to see. The walls and ceiling of my cooler are a latch together panel system which I bought at a commercial food auction for 125 bucks. (I couldn't buy the lumber to frame it for that so I went this route insteadof a full build which I had planned) Inside is stainless steel and exterior is galvanized metal. I had to build a floor and a door as well as fabricate the meat trolley system, winch, and adjustable butcher table. The cooler measures 8'D x 10'T x 10'W...gives me enough room to do all my butchering, and stuffing with my equipment and I can hang probably 10 deer if I had to . I've had these two hanging for a few days in 34-36degree temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck to all the guys looking to build and fill walkins...this was a dream if mine come true!
> 
> I don't have any butcher equipment in the cooler yet bc these are first two deer I've put in. I'll be butchering this weekend


 Damn, that's a pretty sweet cooler Switchbck. Congrats on your build, I'm sure it'll pay for itself in no time!! Welcome to our thread!


----------



## SwitchbckXT

Do you guys have any help on how much per day it will cost
Me to run cooler? Rough estimate? I am using an 18000btu 220v ac unit


----------



## broncokid95

*freezer*

nice


----------



## Brandon42166

SwitchbckXT said:


> Do you guys have any help on how much per day it will cost
> Me to run cooler? Rough estimate? I am using an 18000btu 220v ac unit


Volts x amps = watts Power formula the data tag on the unit will give you an amp rating but take no time to use a multimeter and get an amp draw reading and a voltage reading


----------



## floater

If any of you guys are near Holt, Mo I may have a pile of cooler panels to sell this weekend.


----------



## Firefighter44

that's a pretty sweet unit! nice work


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## Pmaurer

That's rad. Very innovative.


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## Infamousfrog

Has anyone ever built a cooler in their basement? And if not, is it possible due to the heat from the AC unit?

Thanks


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## swensy77

*Nice*

This is cool nice post


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## Maxtor

Infamousfrog said:


> Has anyone ever built a cooler in their basement? And if not, is it possible due to the heat from the AC unit?
> 
> Thanks


 Hello Infamousfrog, although I've never heard of one built in the basement I can tell you this. Mine is inside my garage and the a/c unit is also completely in my garage and I never even notice a difference in temps. In my opinion, I don't think the a/c unit runs long enough to throw enough heat to worry about. But, having said that, you'd hate to go through the trouble of building it down there only to find out it does throw too much heat and then you have to move it.


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## Infamousfrog

That's true. I would hate to move it but I plan on using lag bolts in my build as well, just in case. I would build it in my garage I think my wife would kill me. Because we only have a one stall garage which she claimed....



Maxtor said:


> Hello Infamousfrog, although I've never heard of one built in the basement I can tell you this. Mine is inside my garage and the a/c unit is also completely in my garage and I never even notice a difference in temps. In my opinion, I don't think the a/c unit runs long enough to throw enough heat to worry about. But, having said that, you'd hate to go through the trouble of building it down there only to find out it does throw too much heat and then you have to move it.


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## Mississippi66

Just finished my cooler today. Its 6×8×8 in size. The walls and ceiling are 4 "foam cooler panels butted against 2x4 walls with 3 1/2" insulation fiberglass insulation. The floor is 4 " foam cooler floor panels over a concrete slab. Im cooling it with a 15k btu Ac unit. And a coolbot controller. Still need to rig up a holding system for deer but other then that its working great. Cooled down super fast on my first test run. Holding 35 no problem. Thanks for all the great info posted in this thread.


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## culprit

Just finished my cooler in my garage this weekend. I've followed this thread now for 6 yrs and finally built mine this year. It is on the small side but should work to hang two deer. I've got an LG 8000BTU A/C running with a coolbot. Inside is only 5'x3'3" and 8' tall. So far everything is working great and just in time for the archery opener here in Maine Sep 10th. I used Roxul R-15 in 2x4 walls and then 2" foam on the inside for a total R-27. I can get to 38 degrees in just over an hour.


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## buckeyboy

culprit said:


> Just finished my cooler in my garage this weekend. I've followed this thread now for 6 yrs and finally built mine this year. It is on the small side but should work to hang two deer. I've got an LG 8000BTU A/C running with a coolbot. Inside is only 5'x3'3" and 8' tall. So far everything is working great and just in time for the archery opener here in Maine Sep 10th. I used Roxul R-15 in 2x4 walls and then 2" foam on the inside for a total R-27. I can get to 38 degrees in just over an hour.


insulate your floor bro


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## culprit

I have 1.5" of foam on the floor so far. I'll be adding another layer of 1.5" and a layer of OSB on top. I'm seriously thinking about lining the interior walls with FRP panels and some sort of vinyl floor.


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## Maxtor

Nice job on the cooler culprit, fingers are crossed that you get to put something in it this fall and try it out. I'm sure like everyone else, you'll wish you had built it a lot sooner


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## buckeyboy

culprit said:


> I have 1.5" of foam on the floor so far. I'll be adding another layer of 1.5" and a layer of OSB on top. I'm seriously thinking about lining the interior walls with FRP panels and some sort of vinyl floor.


Frp works great bro easy to clean too


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## oklahomaswitchb

I need to build one of these. Good job.


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## Mississippi66

First deer in my cooler!! Got a young Doe this evening and let me tell you....im happy to have the cooler up and working. It was in the mid 80's this afternoon. By the time I got the deer out and home i was hot and tired. Its nice to be able to stick it in the cooler and clean it tomorrow afternoon. :wink:


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## Mississippi66

Ps thanks to all the archerytalk members that posted in this thread. Helped me out a ton when I was building the cooler.


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## Maxtor

Mississippi66 said:


> Ps thanks to all the archerytalk members that posted in this thread. Helped me out a ton when I was building the cooler.


 Congrats Mississippi, always nice to hear someone happy with a project they build. Especially one that pays off like this one does. Don't be afraid to leave that deer hang for a bit either, I let mine hang for around 8 days or so and the meat is amazing......


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## Mississippi66

Made quick work of this one. Been out of deer burger about two months now. Might let the next one hang a few days.


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## Pennswoodsfowl

saved for later


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## Maxtor

So how did everyone make out this season?? Did you's get to put your fridges to use? I managed to get a decent buck late October and hang him in my fridge, the old coolbot is still running great! Trying to fill the wife's tag now!


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## SwitchbckXT

I got a couple myself but when I fired up the fridge it didn't cool ...I think it's an ac problem but I haven't had time to diagnose it yet. Important lesson tho, make sure it's cooling before you walk away 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## IA Monsterbuck

I built one of these this past summer and have to say it is one of the best things for hunting I have ever bought/made. It was so nice to be able to just hang deer in the cooler and process them later when I had time.

Thanks to all on this thread that posted their experiences. This setup worked flawlessly. My cooler is 4 ft by 8 ft and will go from 68 degrees to 36 degrees in a half hour and had no trouble maintaining that temp.

If your thinking about building one all I can say is do it. You won't regret it.


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## Maxtor

SwitchbckXT said:


> I got a couple myself but when I fired up the fridge it didn't cool ...I think it's an ac problem but I haven't had time to diagnose it yet. Important lesson tho, make sure it's cooling before you walk away
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 Wow, sorry to hear that Switchbckxt. I always run mine at least twice during the off season to make sure everything is in working order. Hope you get it straightened out!


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## Maxtor

IA Monsterbuck said:


> I built one of these this past summer and have to say it is one of the best things for hunting I have ever bought/made. It was so nice to be able to just hang deer in the cooler and process them later when I had time.
> 
> Thanks to all on this thread that posted their experiences. This setup worked flawlessly. My cooler is 4 ft by 8 ft and will go from 68 degrees to 36 degrees in a half hour and had no trouble maintaining that temp.
> 
> If your thinking about building one all I can say is do it. You won't regret it.


 Nice buck there Monsterbuck. I also agree with you on it being one of the best things I bought or made for hunting, has paid for itself many times over. Always a lot nicer processing your own meat, cheaper too!


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## Mississippi66

Just Doe's and a small buck in mine so far(my youngest boy killed a spike). Used it to store 7 deer so far and its been the greatest thing since sliced bread. I'm talking handy as a shirt pocket.

Rut don't really heat up around these parts till early January. Hope to hang a goodun in there soon.


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## Mississippi66

Nice bucks you got there Maxtor and IA Monsterbuck.


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## ltben

Check SIP panel for next project.


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## Maxtor

Anyone looking to build one of these and use a CoolBot, you can use this link to get $10 off of your CoolBot purchase. Up until now, I've never received anything from CoolBot for starting this thread. But by others using this link, it does help give me a little "pay it forward"......

$10 off link: http://storeitcold.referralrock.com/l/71941C8B/


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## Wolfhunt

Nice work

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk


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## Mississippi66

Maxtor said:


> Anyone looking to build one of these and use a CoolBot, you can use this link to get $10 off of your CoolBot purchase. Up until now, I've never received anything from CoolBot for starting this thread. But by others using this link, it does help give me a little "pay it forward"......
> 
> $10 off link: http://storeitcold.referralrock.com/l/71941C8B/


You should add that link to the first page if you haven't already.


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## Maxtor

Mississippi66 said:


> You should add that link to the first page if you haven't already.


 My original post is no longer editable (that I know of) so can't add it


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## MOBIGBUCKS

Do you guys have to run 220 to power these AC units?


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## Maxtor

MOBIGBUCKS said:


> Do you guys have to run 220 to power these AC units?



No sir, 110 as usual with a window a/c unit


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## Infamousfrog

Maxtor,

Since you started this thread back in 2010 someone made a comment about using fiberglass instead of insulated boards. If you could do it all over again would you use the boards this time? Has there been any issues with the fiberglass retaining moisture and odors? I'm going to be building my cooler this spring/summer. Looking to save money if possible.

Thanks


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## Maxtor

Infamousfrog said:


> Maxtor,
> 
> Since you started this thread back in 2010 someone made a comment about using fiberglass instead of insulated boards. If you could do it all over again would you use the boards this time? Has there been any issues with the fiberglass retaining moisture and odors? I'm going to be building my cooler this spring/summer. Looking to save money if possible.
> 
> Thanks


 The ONLY thing I would do different is the height. I wish I would have made it taller but oh well. As far as the insulation that I used, would do the same thing again. There has been no issues with it at all, in fact a friend of mine built one the same way years before mine and his gets used WAY more than mine. He's had no issues at all yet either, so there's nothing wrong with using what I did.


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## SwitchbckXT

MOBIGBUCKS said:


> Do you guys have to run 220 to power these AC units?


I just saw this but I do have a 220 unit in my cooler.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Maxtor

MOBIGBUCKS said:


> Do you guys have to run 220 to power these AC units?



Sorry Mobigbucks, I didn't notice this question either. Absolutely not, my whole system is run off 110v! They are just a standard window a/c unit that you run in your house


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## Maxtor

Don't know who used my Coolbot referral link but thank you! That's my first "reward" so to speak for this thread etc. Remember, if anyone is interested in buying a Coolbot, please use my referral link to get $20 off your purchase: http://storeitcold.referralrock.com/l/71941C8B/

It IS actually $20 off, on the first page of this thread it says $10 off but that's a typo.

Thanks


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## buckeyboy

Mine is 110 also works awesome


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## IcyOne

Why can't I see the pics?


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## Gadawg11

Awesome idea


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## SheaXPO

Tagged. Definitely going to try this someday soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Maxtor

Seeing how Photobucket screwed people over with their links, ALL the pics I've posted for this thread can be seen here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/shares/5N0W5R


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## joaxe

Thanks, Maxtor! Those pics will be great for people starting their builds.

BTW, it seems like Store It Cold no longer recommends using "pink panther" (rolled insulation) in the walls but suggests placing another layer of 2" building foam over the first layer using construction adhesive (Liquid Nails).

Here is the latest build information from their site:
https://www.storeitcold.com/build-it/room-shed-style-cooler/

FWIW, my build (very similar to Maxtor's) has been running GREAT for several years. Thank you, Maxtor!!!


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## Maxtor

joaxe said:


> Thanks, Maxtor! Those pics will be great for people starting their builds.
> 
> BTW, it seems like Store It Cold no longer recommends using "pink panther" (rolled insulation) in the walls but suggests placing another layer of 2" building foam over the first layer using construction adhesive (Liquid Nails).
> 
> Here is the latest build information from their site:
> https://www.storeitcold.com/build-it/room-shed-style-cooler/
> 
> FWIW, my build (very similar to Maxtor's) has been running GREAT for several years. Thank you, Maxtor!!!


 Thanks Joaxe. I"ll have to check out that build video, see what they say. So I built mine in 2010 and still have not had one issue with it and it still operates as good as it did on day 1. I know people say these Cool-Bots are expensive but mine has paid for itself MANY times over already. If I were to do it all over again, I would STILL buy a Cool-Bot. 

I've asked a Mod to post a link to the new pics on the first post in this thread so people won't have to search for them. Hopefully that gets done soon.


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## buckeyboy

still ticking love my cooler


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## dustinlee

Has anyone tried the alternatives to Coolbot? like the Inkbird with a way to "fool" the thermostat on the AC unit?


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## bowproPat

Maxtor said:


> Got started on my project of a walk-in fridge today and I'll be taking pics along the way and showing them as it progresses and then what it looks like when it's completed.
> 
> It will be 4'x4'x6', fully insulated and covered with vapor barrier. It will be cooled with a 10,000 btu air conditioner which will be controlled by a CoolBot, which should be arriving this week.
> 
> Here are the pics from today as it is in it's beginning stages.. I'll update this post as I get more done and take more pics.
> 
> "Anyone looking to build one of these and use a CoolBot, you can use this link to get $10 off of your CoolBot purchase. Up until now, I've never received anything from CoolBot for starting this thread. But by others using this link, it does help give me a little "pay it forward"......
> 
> $10 off link: http://storeitcold.referralrock.com/l/71941C8B/"


I built a 6ft x 8ft inside my home in 2009 when we did a remodel. Cool bot and window air conditioner. Close cell FOAM Insulated walls, ceiling and floor. Keep Temp at 36-37 all the time.


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## ncshealey

I need one..great job


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## Jerred44

need one of these


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## wc870

wow, sensory overload, lots of great info here. I have a factory built walk in with a bad compressor, looks like I'm gonna go the home made cool bot rout thanks!


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## HNTR2506

great ideas here


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## Maxtor

Not sure if many of you are still following this, but was hoping some of you guys could tell me what you are using for a temperature probe to monitor the fridge? I seem to have a problem finding one that works consistently


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## Voks

That's pretty awesome


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