# Bowtech tuning



## doogy_7 (Aug 5, 2003)

TPost said:


> I just ordered a Equalizer from my local archery shop. He has been in busness along time but he just picked up the Bowtech line and I'm not sure how pro-active Bowtech is in getting new dealers up to speed on their bows.
> 
> I searched and followed many of the threads regarding Bowtech but still have a few questions. If this was covered somewhere else and I missed it I apologize.
> 
> ...


I read quite a bit regarding this topic. Sounds like you are correct on the installation of the drop away part, 6" below, check letoff, etc.. Search post "warning to binary cam owners"

But as far as the draw stops go, I believe you shouldn't have to touch them at all. Also Im pretty sure you will only have one draw stop "peg", not two on the 2006 bowtechs


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## TPost (Nov 28, 2004)

Thanks,

Yea it is only one draw stop peg but you can loosen and slide it one way or the other to change the let off. I guess what I'm confused on is is that just for the inital setup and then you do the string twist deal??

Also, how do you like yor STS? Thinking hard on gettin one

Regards,
Todd


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## Dave Nowlin (May 21, 2003)

On the 2005 line one end was 80%. This is not true for the 2006. The correct setting is draw length specific. You need the help of someone with a chart if it wasn't set correctly when you bought the bow. If it is, then leave it alone.
Dave Nowlin


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## Hemingway (Sep 7, 2005)

I believe this is the chart Dave was referring to...


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## Frick (Dec 21, 2004)

*65% or 80%*

In the chart above, for instance, I have a Tribute w/ a 2.5 mod set at 3.8. Is this post setting 65% or 80% let off?


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## Greg / MO (Nov 19, 2003)

I believe all the factory specs will put you at 80% letoff.


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## Frick (Dec 21, 2004)

Is there a chart for 65%? Maybe 4.3 or something? I can't imagine it because with the smooth mods it feels like there is almost no valley at 3.8.

I assume that the 3.8 is from the top side of the cam. The reason I think this is that the top end starts with a long mark and the bottom starts or ends with a short mark? Is the first mark 1 or 0? 

Thanks for all your help.


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## Frick (Dec 21, 2004)

Hello.....Hello.....(tap, tap, tap) Is this thing on?:noidea:


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## lunghit (Aug 5, 2005)

Frick said:


> I assume that the 3.8 is from the top side of the cam. The reason I think this is that the top end starts with a long mark and the bottom starts or ends with a short mark? Is the first mark 1 or 0?
> 
> Thanks for all your help.


I have the same question. I think it starts from the top at 0 and the first line is .5 then 1, 1.5 etc. Hopefully someone has a definate answer.


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## Hemingway (Sep 7, 2005)

lunghit said:


> I have the same question. I think it starts from the top at 0 and the first line is .5 then 1, 1.5 etc. Hopefully someone has a definate answer.


long marks are 1, short marks are 0.5... start counting from the end marked "L". Hope this makes sense


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## eugene1e® (Sep 24, 2005)

It goes from top to bottom starting with 1 then 1.5 2 2.5 and so on


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## [email protected] (Jan 8, 2006)

Mach 4 / Trap Door, Done!!!!!


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## Greg / MO (Nov 19, 2003)

This is from an e-mail straight from Pat Dinan of BowTech:

"The first line counts as #1 and each long line represents the whole numbers and the short lines represent the half numbers."

Hope that helps...


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## lunghit (Aug 5, 2005)

Thanks to all for the help. I am starting to learn more about these binary cams now. They are a great cam system I just wish the manual would explain them better.


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## MAG00 (Nov 2, 2005)

*Sorry if this is repeatative but I'm obviously new - Thanks*

I am somewhat new to the whole archery tuning thing. But, I would like to learn as much as possible and I keep an open mind on matters that I don't know much about and I would greatly appreciate your help and advice.

I know this has probably been beat to death, but I would like to ask a few questions on setting up my new 2006 Allegiance.

1. It seems that your previous post mostly involved the 2005 binary cams. Do the 2006 cam require the same adjustments i.e. tying in drop aways, let-off, etc.

2. You mention the use of the trophy taker drop aways. I assume the adjustments or tying in requirements you mention would be for all drop aways that have cords. Is tying the cord 6 inches below the rest and coming upright at the last 1/2 inch of draw correct for all drop aways with cords? (I am looking at using a TR Drop Zone) Where is the 6 inches measured from (mounting bolts, from arm at upright/down position, etc.)?

3. What about tying the cable to the cable slide? Any adverse effect like tying to the down cable? Do you still time it to come up the last 1/2 inch of draw?

4. I have also read that it is necessary to get the string posts 1/16 inch from the face of the limb. Can someone show a picture of exactly what is required or provide a more detailed description?

5. When twisting the cables to the top cam to get the 80% let off back I assume this is twisting the cable tighter. Is this correct?

6. Do you set the nocking point on your string to be level with the rest when it is a full upright position? I see and hear of people saying that their nocking point is 1/4 inch high or 1/8 inch high. What is the purpose of this or can someone explain this if I am misunderstanding?

Again, I would greatly appreciate all help and advice.


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## davem (Oct 8, 2004)

*bowtech setup*

i just picked up my 2006 allegiance last saturday and set it up, 28.5" draw, string loop, trophy ridge dropzone rest, trophy ridge 3 pin sights , fuse stabilizer. winn freeflight loop release. i tied my rest to the cable slide and im not having any problems, my nock point is about 1/8 " above center with the rest in the up position. you could start there but paper tuning will tell you how to fine tune. this bow is fast and quiet !!


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## MAG00 (Nov 2, 2005)

DAVEM,
Why is your nock point 1/8" high? I thought that you always tried to keep everything level. Just looking for an explanation so that I may learn from others.

Thanks.


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## MAG00 (Nov 2, 2005)

*Any help?*

Can anyone help me with the questions previously posted?

Thanks everyone.


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## lunghit (Aug 5, 2005)

Keeping everything level is a good starting point. Lots of people pare tune and when you do that you have to move your nock set up or down for your bows perfect arrow flight.


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## TANC (Mar 14, 2005)

*I Hope This Helps !*



MAG00 said:


> I am somewhat new to the whole archery tuning thing. But, I would like to learn as much as possible and I keep an open mind on matters that I don't know much about and I would greatly appreciate your help and advice.
> 
> I know this has probably been beat to death, but I would like to ask a few questions on setting up my new 2006 Allegiance.
> 
> ...


The answer to question 1 is YES.

The answer to question 2 is to measure about 5-6 inches of cable from where it spools off the Drop Zone and tie it into the down cable as a starting point. Do not permanently tie it in until you have run some draw experiments to verify it is at full lift at about the last inch or so of the draw cycle. Once confirmed, then you can tie it in.

Don't tie a Drop Zone or Trophy Taker to the cable slide.

Question 4 I don't have the answer to. Not sure what you mean.

When you tie in a drop away to the down cable, it puts extra pull on the down cable, which affects your letoff. Take a couple of twists OUT of the cable. Looser.

Put the nocking point square to the arrow and rest at full lift, or about 1/16 high, then go from there with paper tuning or whatever. It's just a starting point to get to good vertical flight of the arrow.

TANC


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## Perfectionist (Mar 2, 2004)

MAG00 said:


> I am somewhat new to the whole archery tuning thing. But, I would like to learn as much as possible and I keep an open mind on matters that I don't know much about and I would greatly appreciate your help and advice.
> 
> I know this has probably been beat to death, but I would like to ask a few questions on setting up my new 2006 Allegiance.
> 
> ...


For question #3, you need to make sure that the string that attaches to the cable slide will not get in the way of the vanes. Many drop aways have the string connection on the inside of the rest, where it will get in the way. The Golden Key Infinity drop away has it out the outside, where it will not be a problem.

For question #6, the position of your nock depends on how the bow tunes. You can set the nock 1/8 inch above level, but that is just the starting point. Based on how the bow tunes, you may have to move it up or down. Many manufacturers suggest that you set the height of the rest so that your arrow is centered on the berger hole, then set your nock point.


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## davem (Oct 8, 2004)

*level nock point*

i started my set up level and thats were my nock point ended up to achieve a perfect bullet hole while paper tuning . my pse carrera is about 3/32 " above center also.


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## Rabbit (Nov 27, 2003)

*Hemingway...*

way to go with the draw stop chart. Bowtech wouldn't send me one.:tongue: 

BTW, first mark should be considered "1" not "0"...made that mistake already myself.:embara:


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## eugene1e® (Sep 24, 2005)

Rabbit said:


> way to go with the draw stop chart. Bowtech wouldn't send me one.:tongue:


Ya know when some one spends three to four hours doing something it would be nice to get some credit this chart was asked for many times so I called my local dealer and set on the phone with him for 25 minutes then not only that he only had post settings for whole inch mods none for the half inch mods so guess what ya I had to do the math for all the .5 mods post settings Im not bashing are mad and you guys may not have seeing my post but when you repost somones work it just being nice to throw in a little credit.http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=284560
notice in the first post I give credit to tank for posting link for the info on the timing marks still not upset just had to vent lol I need this from time to time :wink:   If anyone wants a copy of the mod chart I can send it to you are you can hold mouse over pic right click and save as.


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## idagapp (Feb 2, 2006)

*Does the chart apply to 65% or trial and error?*

I just started tuning a Tribute. I need to set to 65% (Idaho law). Trial and error is one way but a chart would be nice to start with. I also noticed another "interesting" thing. I set up my center shot using the Easy Eye laser tool with a whisker biscuit rest. This placed the center of the arrow at 13/16 inch from the side of the riser. On another thread re Bow Tech there was some agreement that 15/16 to 1 inch was center shot. Any experience with the Easy Eye for center shot placement? What are you Tribute shooters using for a center shot measurement after your tuning up?

Another interesting - and a bit disturbing - thing. After sighting in and having good arrow flight I noticed that the pins (Trophy Ridge) were approx 1/8 inch to the left of the string line down the arrow. I am shooting Gold Tip 5575 at 67#, 28 draw, 125 g head. Anyone have similar experiences or suggestions?

Finally, an fyi in case you didn't know cause I didn't, if you are getting a Trophy Taker drop rest for a Bow Tech, you need the extended version to get the rest to center shot position. The one I took off my PSE didn't fit so for a small fee of $40 they will send you a new one!


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## TANC (Mar 14, 2005)

*BallPark Only !*



idagapp said:


> I just started tuning a Tribute. I need to set to 65% (Idaho law). Trial and error is one way but a chart would be nice to start with. I also noticed another "interesting" thing. I set up my center shot using the Easy Eye laser tool with a whisker biscuit rest. This placed the center of the arrow at 13/16 inch from the side of the riser. On another thread re Bow Tech there was some agreement that 15/16 to 1 inch was center shot. Any experience with the Easy Eye for center shot placement? What are you Tribute shooters using for a center shot measurement after your tuning up?
> 
> Another interesting - and a bit disturbing - thing. After sighting in and having good arrow flight I noticed that the pins (Trophy Ridge) were approx 1/8 inch to the left of the string line down the arrow. I am shooting Gold Tip 5575 at 67#, 28 draw, 125 g head. Anyone have similar experiences or suggestions?
> 
> Finally, an fyi in case you didn't know cause I didn't, if you are getting a Trophy Taker drop rest for a Bow Tech, you need the extended version to get the rest to center shot position. The one I took off my PSE didn't fit so for a small fee of $40 they will send you a new one!


The laser centershot tool just gets you in the ballpark. True centershot is not necessarily where the nocking point and center of arrow match. When you draw a bow, that may change.

Sight pins to the left of the string are quite normal. All of mine are slightly left. Same reason as above.

The extended version of the Trophy Taker was built just because of Bowtech centershots in 05, but most 06 bows don't need it.

TANC


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## binary2 (Feb 24, 2006)

hard to beat paper tuning


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## Hemingway (Sep 7, 2005)

eugene1e® said:


> Ya know when some one spends three to four hours doing something it would be nice to get some credit this chart was asked for many times so I called my local dealer and set on the phone with him for 25 minutes then not only that he only had post settings for whole inch mods none for the half inch mods so guess what ya I had to do the math for all the .5 mods post settings Im not bashing are mad and you guys may not have seeing my post but when you repost somones work it just being nice to throw in a little credit.http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=284560
> notice in the first post I give credit to tank for posting link for the info on the timing marks still not upset just had to vent lol I need this from time to time :wink:   If anyone wants a copy of the mod chart I can send it to you are you can hold mouse over pic right click and save as.



Eugene, didn't mean to stiff you on the credit... I knew I got it on AT somewhere and saved it at the time, but I couldn't remember where. All credit goes to you my friend!!!


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## Rabbit (Nov 27, 2003)

eugene1e® said:


> Ya know when some one spends three to four hours doing something it would be nice to get some credit this chart was asked for many times so I called my local dealer and set on the phone with him for 25 minutes then not only that he only had post settings for whole inch mods none for the half inch mods so guess what ya I had to do the math for all the .5 mods post settings Im not bashing are mad and you guys may not have seeing my post but when you repost somones work it just being nice to throw in a little credit.http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=284560
> notice in the first post I give credit to tank for posting link for the info on the timing marks still not upset just had to vent lol I need this from time to time :wink:   If anyone wants a copy of the mod chart I can send it to you are you can hold mouse over pic right click and save as.


eugene1e...good work, thanks for posting.:wink:


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## idagapp (Feb 2, 2006)

*"o6 Tribute tuning*

I ordered a Tribute at 65% letoff (Idaho law). At 70# I get 15# holding so it is not at 65%. I will be tying a Trophy Taker to it. I think this is the order I should do things to get tuned up.

1. Limb bolt all the way in (Is this necessary?)

2. Adjust the stop on the upper wheel toward the 1 position in very small increments untill I get 24.5 holding. It is at about 4.3 now which looks right according to the chart above for 80%.

3. Tie the cable 6 inches down the down cable then adjust the length so that the rest comes up the last 1/2 inch of the draw cycle. As I understand it this will affect the let off so that I need to add twist one at a time to the up cable to get back to 65%. I think this will add slightly to the overall draw weight. If I didn't want to add draw weight then take twist out of the down cable until the the 65% is achieved. Is this correct?

4. Assuming this is correct, then by even turning of the limb bolts I can adjust the poundage down from 70# and everything else should stay in tune.

Any help will be appreciated.


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## eugene1e® (Sep 24, 2005)

Hemingway said:


> Eugene, didn't mean to stiff you on the credit... I knew I got it on AT somewhere and saved it at the time, but I couldn't remember where. All credit goes to you my friend!!!



No biggie It wasnt just you guys I did it for the folks hear becouse everyone was asking about mods and settings but when I posted it no on sad thanks lol so kind of got under my skin a little but all is good now :wink:


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