# How I make my B Stingers Tutorial



## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

This is a brief tutorial of how I have been making my homemade B Stingers. I had some people ask me how I made this or that in the past and I wanted to build another one so i took pics and thought I would post everything here. The aluminum tube can be bought at wal mart in the form of a telescoping golf ball retriever or a telescoping trecking pole. The nice thing about the trecking poles is they come in all sorts of cool anodized colors. For this tutorial I used a golf ball retriever and it is silver. Both poles will cost you 13 bucks a piece at wal mart.

What you will need is a piece of 5/8" aluminum tubing, a 5/16X 1 1/2X 24 allen head bolt, 3 5/16X24 nuts, an extra 5/16 nut of any thread pitch, a 1/4X20 coarse thread long nut, a tubing cutter, sandpaper, JB Weld, super glue, a 1/4X20 coarse thread bolt, some packing foam, a pocket knife, a small file, and some 1/4X2" fender washers for the end weight.








The first step is to cut your tube to length. Then take a pocket knife debur the inside of the tube as the tubing cutters have a tendency to flare the tube inwards. Then take your sandpaper and sand the inside of both ends really well as well as removing the razor sharp edge on each end.








Then take your packing foam and use your tube as a cookie cutter. The foam used here is inside a dish network reciever box on new receivers. I get it at work.Slowly put light downward pressure on the foam as you spin the tube back and forth in a twisting motion just like your cutting cookies. The tube will cut through the foam as you twist and you will have a nice little plug of foam inside your tube. Do this as many times as you need to fill your tube with foam leaving a small amount on each end for your inserts. I like to actaully compress the foam together when I stick my second insert in and glue it.















Take your 1 1/2 allen bolt and thread your 3 nuts on all the way and tighten with a wrench. Notice the grind marke on the nuts. I like to grind divets in each nut on the FLATS ONLY to give the JB Weld something to really bite into. The reason it is flats only is because the 5/16 nuts fit perfectly inside a 5/8" tube so the nuts are being used to hold everything square and plum while the jb weld dries. The JB weld fills in the areas between the flats and the tube. Take a small file and just "knock" each point of each nut with it to scuff it a little. This will still give you a snug fit inside the tube but not so snug that you need pliers to pull it should something need changed. also take your 1/4 long nut and grind divets on it as well. On it it doesn't matter if you grind divets on the points as it doesn't fit snug. More on that later.















Clean and degrease your stud and nuts and let dry. Mix up some JB Weld really good. I prefer to use regular JB Weld instead of JB Quick. It takes overnight to dry but it is a stronger bond.Then generously roll the stud in JB Weld and insert down into your tube end till the last nut is flush with the end of the tube. Carefully use your finger and wipe any excess that overflows off the end of the tube. (remember I said to use sandpaper to remove razor sharp edge from tube ends?) Set aside and let dry for several hours.

















You remember in my parts list I listed an extra 5/16 nut? Well here is why. Since the 1/4" long nut is so small inside the 5/8" tube, the extra nut is used to center the long nut and keep it straight and plum while the JB Weld dries. Here's what we do. Sand and scuff the bases of each nut. Lightly apply 4 drops of super glue to the 5/16 nut as it sits on a flat surface. Then very carefully and meticulously put the 2 together making sure the 1/4 long nut is centered on the 5/16 nut as perfectly as possible to make sure the long nut is not sitting crooked on top of the 5/16 nut. Then mix up some more JB Weld and apply a small amount all around the base of the 1/4 long nut and let it flow down onto the 5/16 nut. Carefully scrape any excess that may run over the side of the 5/16 nut and let dry overnight.


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

Heres a pic of the 1/4 long nut after the JB Weld has dried









Now that the JB weld is dry, Carefully take your small file and just knock the points off the 5/16 nut so the nut fits snug inside the tube, but not so snug you can barely slide it in. Thread in your 1/4 bolt all the way to the end of the 1/4 long nut so as to protect the threads from getting JB Weld inside them. The 1/4 nut also acts as a level. In other words after you got it in and the JB is drying, spin your tube around slowly looking at the protruding bolt and use it as a guage to make sure your insert is square in the tube. If it is crooked, carefull adjust to make straight.Mix up some JB Weld and generously roll the entire nut in the JB, then insert the nut into the other tube end all the way to flush.(I actually prefer to recess it about 1/8" below the surface then cover the entire top with more JB Weld.) Now even though the JB Is thick, it will still flow downhill and continue to burp out air pockets. If you did your foam inserts right, you should have them slightly compressed and they should act as a barrier to keep the JB Weld from flowing any further inside the tube. I had to keep topping off the JB weld every 5 minutes until it quit burping out air.


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

I will post more later as far as the finished product and I will try to post some specs as far as weight of the tube ect. Total cost of an average B Stinger done this way as around 20-25 bucks.


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## cbmac (May 24, 2006)

Good looking project


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

Thanks. I am gonna try and borrow my ex wifes digital postal scale and weigh the finished tube and the weights and post the measurements.


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

Well here is a pic of the finished product for all who care to see....which I gather from responses is quite low.... but oh well. I did say i would post results so I will hold up to my word before I end this thread. The empty bar weighs in 2.5 ounces for a 10.25" bar. Each washer weighs .8 ounces. So you can do the math on that.


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## .BuckHunt. (May 12, 2008)

Looks nice!

Sent from my DROIDX


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

Thanks


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## Just One (Mar 13, 2011)

Great work!:thumbs_up


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## b2sandshee (Nov 24, 2008)

Very nice!


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## bowhunter302 (Feb 1, 2012)

this is awesome, i'm definitely going to have to try it


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## creekside1518 (Sep 20, 2009)

very nice :thumbs_up


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## MikeR (Apr 2, 2004)

Thanks for sharing. Very nice stabilizer and very easy to duplicate with easily available parts.


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

Thanks guys. It may not be fancy or machined on a lathe but it is something a person without fancy tools can build.


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## bowhntr26 (Jan 18, 2008)

Great job and very nice picture work too might i add lol


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## NoDeerInIowa (Mar 5, 2012)

Looks good.


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## kc hay seed (Jul 12, 2007)

get you some rubber 2" washers to go between the weight washers for vib. damptners. just a idea.good job!!


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## kc hay seed (Jul 12, 2007)

rather than j-b welding 3- nuts together why not just buy a rod coupling in the 1/4"x 20 or 5/16"x24 thread.it would save some time and money?


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

I think a 5/16 coupling or long nut, for the rear (bow side) may be a good idea then use a removeable stud for the screw. As far as the weight end, isn't the long nut in the picture the same as a rod coupling?


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## kc hay seed (Jul 12, 2007)

i came back and read it again and you are right that is the same as a rod coupling.the first time i thought you was makeing a rod coupling with the 3-nuts.you did a fine job thanks for shearing it with us.


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

kc hay seed said:


> i came back and read it again and you are right that is the same as a rod coupling.the first time i thought you was makeing a rod coupling with the 3-nuts.you did a fine job thanks for shearing it with us.


I see your point. But still i agree with what u said that a future one should probably have a long nut instead of a stud. That way the person can tailor his stud length by how far he screws it in there. Thanks for the inadvertant input. :thumbs_up


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## skynight (Nov 5, 2003)

I like it.


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## AGPank (Sep 5, 2008)

I'm interested in playing around with some product from here.
http://www.rockwestcomposites.com/browse?gclid=CPvtmMeRmrACFSKhtgodFh9mXQ


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

There ya go...Thats a neat idea.


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## bust'em1 (May 2, 2009)

nice job! I like it.


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## sgtdww504 (Feb 19, 2012)

I like it I may have to try that


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## SumBeach (Sep 8, 2011)

Going to try it this weekend. Thanks for the details. Great idea


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## fresnohunter (Jul 6, 2010)

Thanks for posting


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## swbuckmaster (Dec 20, 2005)

nice


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## iwantone2.4 (Sep 12, 2010)

Nice!


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## hunt123 (Jan 17, 2009)

I've done the same thing for several years. Main difference is that I use 3/4" alum. pipe instead of 5/8". I've made a few of them, different sizes and they work wonderfully. The one I use the most right now is 24". I get my pipe at Lowes. I never thought about putting packing foam inside, interesting idea. Expanding foam would probably work also. If it expanded out the end, just cut it back. Or poke chunks of foam rubber inside. I don't have any vibration or noise problems or I'd probably try one of those.

The awesome thing is that since stabilization often takes so much tweaking, you can experiment endlessly with weights and length for little money.


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

I started using expanding foam.. It was very messy. I also noticed once after it dried, I had to cut it back a tad cause it filled too much of the tube up. When I scraped some out, I noticed it had big air pockets or voids in it meaning that I had no way of knowing for sure it the entire tube was solid with expanding foam or not. Thats what got me to looking at this way. Not messy and you can guarantee the entire tube is full.


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## redyak3 (Nov 5, 2011)

Nice job!!!


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## jim p (Oct 29, 2003)

I have been making stabilizers this way for several years. I use things that I find a thrift stores for shafts. I have used carbon golf clubs, aluminum ski poles and aluminum tubing for the stabilizer shafts. Most of my stabilizers run around $10. 

I like being able to use golf clubs and ski poles because many times they are painted and labeled and look pretty good for a homemade stabilizer. Also they are long enough to make some 40" stabilizers for dot shooting.


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## Pdaniel1982 (May 30, 2012)

Great project, gonna give this a try for sure!!! Thanks for a great post!!!


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## fromthedepths (Aug 1, 2006)

thanks for your post i'm gonna try one.


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

I bought a quick disconnect for my wifes bow a while back. I saved money and bought her the plastic one instead of an aluminum one. Big mistake. It is cheap and about to break. So I built another stab and I built it with female holes in each end. Then I screwed a 5/16X 24 stud into her riser (after removing the QD) and locked it in place with a thin lock nut. Now when she removes her stab to case her bow, she unscrews the stab from the stud instead of the threads in her aluminum riser saving wear and tear on the bow. My newer Martin has a QD built into the bow so it still uses the stab I built in this thread. *kc hay seed* gave me the idea earlier in this thread. I love when you post something and learn even more from people who reply to your post. Thanks for all the extra idea guys.


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## iwantone2.4 (Sep 12, 2010)

Well i decided to try making sed stab. My aluminum was alittle thicker so i had to grind down the 5/16 nuts to fit in. And for the piece were all the washers go i had to do the same. All the nuts i used turned out like the one pictured. The taped up end is the end drying with the jb on it.


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

Looks good. Try grinding a few divets into the long nuts just to give the JB something to really grip onto.


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## iwantone2.4 (Sep 12, 2010)

I used JB quick and its drying really well. Will take a finished pic alitlle later. Im gonna use rubber washers of the same size to fill the rest of the nut.


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## iwantone2.4 (Sep 12, 2010)

Very happy with how it looks. Black and lime green are the only mods i will do to it so far.


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## scott&devin (Jul 18, 2010)

Cool stuff


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## iwantone2.4 (Sep 12, 2010)

Shot it today. Quieted my bow down quite a bit and made me float the pin alittle better. I definatley noticed a diffrence. Thanks for the help martin shooter!


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

You know when I initially posted this thread......out of around 267 views I had one reply. I hesitated to post finished pics and specs cause I didn't figure anyone gave a rats *$$ anyways lol . But since I had said before that, that I would, I posted finished pics anyways. And the private messages I have gotten from people trying to make their own has been rewarding. I would love to just go out and spend big bucks on all this stuff but it is cheaper and more fun to make my own. I think since march, having bought 2 brand new bows, redoing one older bow, plus all the accesories I have bought for my wife and I, I have probably spent over 2000 dollars. Anything I can enjoy doing myself and saving some moola in the process, is well worth it. I have learned many awesome ideas from this forum so I figured I might as well show and tell myself. And your welcome.:wink:


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## iwantone2.4 (Sep 12, 2010)

Now i have some fun with mine. Were the green tape is thats gonna be a lime green strip, then the rest will be matte black. Itll match my strings.


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

you mean the tap is gonna stay or just mask the area you don't want black? That would look cool. I haven't even gotten around to painting any of mine yet. Been so busy scraping and painting my house that i haven't had time to even pick up my bows. Ahhh the honey do list from hell lol.


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## iwantone2.4 (Sep 12, 2010)

The tape is their just so i know where to put the lime green paint and it gave me an idea of what it is gonna look like. Got any tips on painting aluminum?


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

No I don't. Sand or scuff it up, prime and paint I guess.


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## wv hoyt man (Feb 17, 2012)

marked


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## iwantone2.4 (Sep 12, 2010)

Martin_Shooter1 said:


> No I don't. Sand or scuff it up, prime and paint I guess.


Ya that's what i was thinkin. I have seen people using a self etching primer from automotive stores? ill definatley be trying that though.


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## iwantone2.4 (Sep 12, 2010)

Well How did it turn out?


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

Now tell me how you did that? Did you buy a camo pattern wrap or what? Thats cool. Where did you get that stuff?


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## iwantone2.4 (Sep 12, 2010)

Martin_Shooter1 said:


> Now tell me how you did that? Did you buy a camo pattern wrap or what? Thats cool. Where did you get that stuff?


Didnt really want to paint so i went to CABELAS :thumbs_up and in the truck section wear they had the camo WRAPS, and decided hey now thats a slick idea! they come in a 4" x 10' roll So theirs LOTS to work with. Cut out an appropriate size piece and roll it on. Just had to take my time and make sure their was no bubbles in the wrap. Theirs a couple diffrent camo patterns to. It sticks well so far. Now time will tell how long itll last.


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## WldlfPopCntrlXp (Oct 13, 2009)

Here's a few of mine I've done recently.


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

pulleys off the front of an engine lol thats unique. Good idea. If you need more weight you can just use the whole alternator.:wink: JK


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## WldlfPopCntrlXp (Oct 13, 2009)

Believe it or not the pulleys don't weigh that much. I have some from 2.75-7.5 oz 
Change out as needed and they spin. Lol


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## iwantone2.4 (Sep 12, 2010)

Nice!


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## SumBeach (Sep 8, 2011)

Got one done. I used a broken maglight flashlight. Gutted it drilled a hole through the bottom to attach to the riser for a quick disconnect. I used a swim noodle to fill it with foam. Then used different sizes of fender washers. Thanks for the post.


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

That is extremely unique and I like it! I am serious. The QD made out of the battery cap is cool as heck.


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## iwantone2.4 (Sep 12, 2010)

The little thing you did with you washers is pretty cool looking. Mind if i use that!?


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## Pete53 (Dec 5, 2011)

very very nice,are you going to make me one and we can work out the details privately.thanks,Pete53


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## WldlfPopCntrlXp (Oct 13, 2009)

One I did today


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## azflyman (Mar 19, 2012)

I think you need to find brighter paint, that is just too dull :wink:



WldlfPopCntrlXp said:


> One I did today


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## WldlfPopCntrlXp (Oct 13, 2009)

Matches my strings and cables, and wrist strap, and fletchings. Lol


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## DubVBoy (Feb 20, 2012)

Here's a couple I whipped up. Titanium shafts with PVC end caps and steel end weights. Haven't gotten the chance to try 'em out that much yet, but they feel nice on the bows.


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