# Nodes of a arrow



## distributor (Mar 18, 2004)

Can we have some one to give inlight of what nodes of a arrow are and explane where nodes are located. what efect does this have on the arrow flite? How do you locate nodes on the arrow?
Say for a 30" draw how would you go about setting the nodes for a 31 " arrow? What efect does nodes have on dynamic balance of the arrow?


----------



## itchyfinger (Jun 14, 2007)

I have just done my own hunting of this subject....here goes.

For carbon arrows it will not matter at all. For alloys all you do is hold the arrow at the nock end and rest the end of your arrow at an angle on the edge of a table. now grab the arrow in the middle and pull it down. you will see that the arrow bounces. now slide the arrow a little further up. Keep sliding the arrow until it does not bounce but only vibrates. That is the node. Now measure from the end to that node. Now get a buddy and have him/her mark the arrow over your rest at full draw. Next add your node measurement to where you marked your arrow over the rest towards the end of the arrow. There is where you cut. If your DL is long (which it is) it is possible to cut the arrow to short and will fall off your rest at ful draw. Whatever you do. Do not cut your arrow to short just to allow for this node tuning method. From my understanding node tuning makes your rest blade pressure less critical to get right. That's the skinny. 

For my situation I found the node of my 33" long 2712 w/ 300g in the nose to be 3-3/4" from the end. After marking where my rest hit the arrow at full draw, I added 3-3/4" from that mark towards the end of the shaft. From that mark to the end of the shaft was 3-1/2". The way I figure it is that I have 3-1/2" to play with to find where the arrow groups the best for my bow.


----------



## AKRuss (Jan 10, 2003)

There's a brief description of vibration nodes in Easton's "Arrow Tuning and Maintenance Guide" and in George Ryals DVD "Professional Tuning Techniques." The former can be downloaded from their website and is invaluabe as a tuning reference, IMHO. 

itchy, why wouldn't you do the same for carbon arrows?


----------



## spangler (Feb 2, 2007)

From a finger shooter perspective:

The nodes are the points where the arrow flexes the least. As the arrow leaves the bow it is being forced forward by the string, and backward by the point. This forces an arrow to compress like a spring. How much it compresses under a certain force is called the static spine of the arrow. The arrow will flex first one way, then the other, then back, less and less each time until it straightens out pretty much, how fast this happens is called the dynamic spine of the arrow. The two points of axis upon which the arrow flexes are called the nodes.

It is important that the arrow be allowed to flex not to much, and not to little so the nodes are kept inline with the target. The straight line drawn from one node to another is the line upon which the arrow will travel. This is one of the reasons why choosing the correct spine is important. An incorrect spine will throw the nodes out of alignment with the target resulting in misses in a certain direction which increase in the distance of the miss the further out you go. Again, the arrow will pretty much travel on a line from one node to the other, and the further it travels along this line, the further off it will be from center.

All in all, I'd say just worry about spine since if you get that right and your arrows are close to the back of your bow (within 1/2 inch) , your nodes will pretty much be set correctly.

-Andrew


----------



## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

AKRuss said:


> itchy, why wouldn't you do the same for carbon arrows?


I know George and a few others have told me that it doesn't matter with carbons like it does with aluminums....


----------



## itchyfinger (Jun 14, 2007)

AKRuss said:


> There's a brief description of vibration nodes in Easton's "Arrow Tuning and Maintenance Guide" and in George Ryals DVD "Professional Tuning Techniques." The former can be downloaded from their website and is invaluabe as a tuning reference, IMHO.
> 
> itchy, why wouldn't you do the same for carbon arrows?


Carbon recovers much quicker than alloy. It's just the physical properties that kind of cancel it out. Which is why the nano's and X10s and McKinny II's are so desirable for distance shooters, recurvers and FITA types. They recover faster than normal carbons. They stablize faster making them a more accurate projectile over a longer distance. That coupled with their smaller diameter to cut the wind make them ideal for that application. My understanding with the big overspined alloys is that is really just makes your launcher blade less critical making it LESS likely to negatively affect your arrow flight. We all know that overspined arrows are MORE critical to shoot and not as forgiving as say a properly spined 22 or 23 series. So any little bit can help.  Clear as mudd??


----------



## itchyfinger (Jun 14, 2007)

Again folks I'm regurgatating info that I recently read so If I'm missing something please feel free to correct me. I'm easy like Sunday Morning.


----------

