# Olympic recurve beginner arrow selection help



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

a -

Assuming you mean 34# on the fingers, and that's accurate, start with 28" 1816s/NIBB points. 
And btw, you're over-bowed to learn this type of shooting.

Viper1 out.


----------



## Chris RL (Oct 30, 2011)

arlechinu, welcome!
what Viper1 said.

I'll elaborate a little.

Keep what you already have, you'll be moving back to them eventually (see below).

But you'll need a set of learner's limbs, 16-20lbs and a set of weaker spine arrows to go with.

Most people have these, then keep them because the main temptation is to move up to a high poundage limb way too soon.
And by overbowed, most Olympic style archers consider 30lbs to be overbowed within the first six months to a year of starting out. 
For 18m recurve competition, 24lbs is plenty enough bow.

Also, beginners who are gear oriented have this habit of not listening to advice from those who have gone before, even after having asked for said advice... 

So what will usually happen in that instance, you'll get yourself injured/sore and then fall back to the 20 pounders to recuperate...!

The reason for the light limbs is that form is 100% of the game when you're starting out. The way you shoot is everything.
It's also a learned skill - i.e. most of us starting off after the age of 11 already have bodies built differently enough that the body motion and flexibility required by good form don't come naturally.

So the learning and repetition of good form, under the eye of a decent coach, is what's required for the first year/10,000 arrows, however you want to measure it.

A lighter bow allows for more adjustment at full draw, and also more arrows down range before the body starts to tire.

That's all there is to that.

Surprising how many beginners know better.


----------



## arlechinu (Nov 20, 2012)

Thanks for the insightful replies!

I've shot a friend's 28# recurve for about 2 months before getting my own and I was confident I can handle the 36# but now I'm not sure that just "handling it" is what I need to do. I'll follow your advice and I'm looking for a pair of used limbs at about 24-26# to start with until I learn proper form.

Lesson learned  I should have asked around these forums rather than listen to the shop guys.

Again, thanks for the advice!


----------



## arlechinu (Nov 20, 2012)

Update and a question.

Following your advice I've got a pair of 26# limbs coming my way so now I definitely need new arrows.

So, with the new 26# limbs and 26" DL, I'm using a clicker with my arrows cut to 26.75", which spine should I be getting?

I'm looking at Easton Jazz shafts, the Easton shaft selector recommends 1716 with 0.880 spine for the 26.75 arrow length. Would that be ok?


----------



## CLASSICHUNTER (May 20, 2005)

even 1616 at that weight and 50 grain nibbs 3 inch feather ... try to find some used redline 900`s and 60 grain nibbs if possible very durable shaft ..


----------



## arlechinu (Nov 20, 2012)

CLASSICHUNTER said:


> even 1616 at that weight and 50 grain nibbs 3 inch feather ... try to find some used redline 900`s and 60 grain nibbs if possible very durable shaft ..


Unfortunately I can't find any redlines around here, even used. So I'm stuck with choosing Easton Jazz or Platinum Plus. I wouldn't get carbon arrows yet, I've been pushing my budget too far already


----------



## ButchD (Nov 11, 2006)

arlechinu said:


> Unfortunately I can't find any redlines around here, even used. So I'm stuck with choosing Easton Jazz or Platinum Plus. I wouldn't get carbon arrows yet, I've been pushing my budget too far already


Hey,
I would recommend 1616s. Full length, don't bother with the clicker until you have checked with a coach. You don't want the clicker to drive your form, rather, your repeatable form to aid you in setting clicker location.
Have fun!
Butch


----------



## atjurhs (Oct 19, 2011)

If you want carbon arrows, look at Carbon Impact. This is what our local pro shop sells to newbies


----------

