# Stabilizer thread adapter (1/4 -> 5/16)



## rick11743 (Sep 20, 2010)

This may work:

http://http://www.lancasterarchery.com/x-spot-flex-ball-rear-shock-reducer-5-16x24.html


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## ThomVis (Feb 21, 2012)

rick11743 said:


> This may work:
> 
> http://www.lancasterarchery.com/x-spot-flex-ball-rear-shock-reducer-5-16x24.html


The 1/4 thread would have to be female, but with it being made from rubber it probably makes the stabilizer pointless. But thanks for thinking towards a solution.


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## Chinese Tea (Mar 17, 2010)

This might work:
http://www.pacifictrailers.com/Line-Adapter-5/16-Male-x-1/4-Female-7828/

Need to ask about the thread spacing though.


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## rick11743 (Sep 20, 2010)

ThomVis said:


> The 1/4 thread would have to be female, but with it being made from rubber it probably makes the stabilizer pointless. But thanks for thinking towards a solution.


The 1/4" or 5/16" screw is removable, and could be converted from male to female


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

Don't know if I would want a 1/4 20 holding my stabilizer but that would be a different question. 1/4 20 sounds small to handle the full weight of a stabilizer system. I suspect that is why so many mfg went to the 5/16 system.

The brake fitting is a NPT or National pipe thread if I recall correctly Slightly tapered and with a 5/16-18 outside thread. I don't recall what the internal thread is but I doubt it is a good solution.

if the stud at the bow end of your stabilizer is removable (see if there is an hex opening in the end of the screw) this might work.

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/doinker-adapter-screw-5-16x24-to-1-4x20.html


Y


DC


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## ThomVis (Feb 21, 2012)

dchan said:


> if the stud at the bow end of your stabilizer is removable (see if there is an hex opening in the end of the screw) this might work.
> 
> http://www.lancasterarchery.com/doinker-adapter-screw-5-16x24-to-1-4x20.html


I found the adapter screw, and the hex opening. Already broke a bit in it, tomorrow attempt #2, with better tools and some heating (does aluminum expand more then steel when heated?). Seeing how attempt #1 failed, would like to have a plan B.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

Probably has some locker/glue in the threads so heating it will probably do the trick.

The other option I just found is ordering a Meguiars S3BP seen here http://www.ebay.com/itm/Meguiars-S3BP-3-Backing-Pad-Adapter-Kit-/140539752899

According to the MFG it comes with a 5/16-24 Male to 1/4-20 female adapter (in the adapter kit) Since it's designed to run on a random orbit buffer/sander, I suspect it's pretty strong..

DC


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## dkard (Sep 25, 2004)

Mcmaster Carr has thread adapters about $5 each. The ship fast and usually reasonbly priced

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-standoffs/=knvadt

dave


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

dkard said:


> Mcmaster Carr has thread adapters about $5 each. The ship fast and usually reasonbly priced
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-standoffs/=knvadt
> 
> dave


I looked there too. It can be done however,

The only thing I saw was a 5/16-24 male to 5/16-18 female,

Then a 5/16-18 male to 1/4-20 female. 

Stainless only for the 5/16-24 from what I could see.


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## dkard (Sep 25, 2004)

dchan said:


> I looked there too. It can be done however,
> 
> The only thing I saw was a 5/16-24 male to 5/16-18 female,
> 
> ...


Your right, I thought the 5/16 fittings were 5/16-18 not the 5/16-24

dave


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## dkard (Sep 25, 2004)

This might work

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/535392-REG/General_Brand_Microphone_Reducer_Bushing.html


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

dkard said:


> This might work
> 
> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/535392-REG/General_Brand_Microphone_Reducer_Bushing.html


Little too big.. 

5/8"

I actually have several of those sitting in my microphone/audio case.


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## dkard (Sep 25, 2004)

I thought that would be perfect but your right, too bad at $3 they would be handy to have if they were the right size.


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## ThomVis (Feb 21, 2012)

dchan said:


> Probably has some locker/glue in the threads so heating it will probably do the trick.
> 
> The other option I just found is ordering a Meguiars S3BP seen here http://www.ebay.com/itm/Meguiars-S3BP-3-Backing-Pad-Adapter-Kit-/140539752899
> 
> According to the MFG it comes with a 5/16-24 Male to 1/4-20 female adapter (in the adapter kit) Since it's designed to run on a random orbit buffer/sander, I suspect it's pretty strong..


Now that's an out-of-the-box find, how did you arrive at that one? At $20 might take that gamble. Also found the Dutch Meguiars shop, they charge 3 times the US price. 



dkard said:


> Mcmaster Carr has thread adapters about $5 each. The ship fast and usually reasonbly priced
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-standoffs/=knvadt


"Your use exceeds typical patterns of our visitors, so we have restricted access."
I'll try again tomorrow when my "ban" has been lifted.



dkard said:


> This might work
> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/535392-REG/General_Brand_Microphone_Reducer_Bushing.html


They have some nice adapters, this one definitely goes into the favorites.

This evening attempt #2 starts, so I'll let you know tomorrow.


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## ThomVis (Feb 21, 2012)

Attempt #2 succeeded, only to find out that bolt is way too long to be replaced with the Doinker Adapter Screw. 
A friend showed me the adapter he got with his orbital sander, looks very flimsy, just a tat wider than the threads, so not really an option.

So cheapest next best thing (in my view) would be to screw the 1/4-20 v-bar bolt into a 3/4" or so wide spacer, and the Doinker Adapter Screw into the other end. Any off the shelf (webshop) ideas?


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## Chinese Tea (Mar 17, 2010)

Just take a siderod, remove an end, cut it down to the desired length and use that as an extender instead?


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## ThomVis (Feb 21, 2012)

Chinese Tea said:


> Just take a siderod, remove an end, cut it down to the desired length and use that as an extender instead?


It's an idea, but the siderods I've seen the 1/4 thread isn't that stirdy. By design, because it only has to hold the damper and/or single weight, not the entire stabilizer system.


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## Chinese Tea (Mar 17, 2010)

Not sure if this is helpful (if this is the v bar you're having issues with), but check post #9 here
http://www.archeryinterchange.com/f11/v-bar-stabilisers-8316/

There may be a part from the manufacturer that will fix this for you.
Could you post a picture of the setup?


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## hooktonboy (Nov 21, 2007)

There's an older Cartel (top-type) damper that might do the job. It's 5/16" male, then 1/4" female where the rubber damper goes. Aluminium tube, 4" long I think. At the 1/4" end there is a very small raised lip around the circumference of the tube (imagine it as a small recess for the rubber damper bit). Think I have a couple in a box somewhere. Let me know if of use to you - no cost. I don't need 'em. Pic to follow...


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## hooktonboy (Nov 21, 2007)

Picture herewith (hopefully)


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## ThomVis (Feb 21, 2012)

Chinese Tea said:


> Not sure if this is helpful (if this is the v bar you're having issues with), but check post #9 here
> http://www.archeryinterchange.com/f11/v-bar-stabilisers-8316/
> 
> There may be a part from the manufacturer that will fix this for you.
> Could you post a picture of the setup?


I found that thread as well, problem is, Arten went out of business. They made replacement parts for a lot of things, but 5/16 never shows up in combination with 1/4.
















The black bolt should be further into the aluminum rod, but it'll probably needs re-heating for the yellow stuff in there to allow that to happen.



hooktonboy said:


> There's an older Cartel (top-type) damper that might do the job. It's 5/16" male, then 1/4" female where the rubber damper goes. Aluminium tube, 4" long I think. At the 1/4" end there is a very small raised lip around the circumference of the tube (imagine it as a small recess for the rubber damper bit). Think I have a couple in a box somewhere. Let me know if of use to you - no cost. I don't need 'em. Pic to follow...


Sounds perfect, the 1mm lip I see as a bonus. I'll PM you.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

What diameter is that sleeve around the 1/4-20 bolt and how long is that sleeve?

DC


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## DK Lieu (Apr 6, 2011)

hooktonboy said:


> There's an older Cartel (top-type) damper that might do the job. It's 5/16" male, then 1/4" female where the rubber damper goes. Aluminium tube, 4" long I think. At the 1/4" end there is a very small raised lip around the circumference of the tube (imagine it as a small recess for the rubber damper bit). Think I have a couple in a box somewhere. Let me know if of use to you - no cost. I don't need 'em. Pic to follow...


Not a good solution. This Cartel part is on my "do not buy" list. The 5/16" male thread is made of aluminum, which should be avoided in threaded parts whenever possible and especially if the parts need to be assembled and disassembled frequently. Aluminum threads tend to gall and jam easily, if not kept clean and lubricated. We had a Team member with one of these top stabilizers jammed halfway in her riser. I had to take it to a machine shop to cut it off and drill it out.


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## ThomVis (Feb 21, 2012)

dchan said:


> what diameter is that sleeve around the 1/4-20 bolt and how long is that sleeve?


d=5/16", l=1/2"


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

Not sure how "handy" you are and if you have access to some tools.

What I was thinking..

a 5/16-24 bolt with a section that is not threaded.






I think this is a stock image and may be a 5/16-18 bolt but the idea is the same.

Cut it off, (both ends) head at 1/2", thread end at a length that won't bottom out. Then drill and tap the end without the threads with a 1/4-20 hole. Insert a 1/4-20 bolt and cut it off at the length you need to put into your stabilizer.

Sounds like a lot of work but if you are dead set on using that stabilizer system, this may be the shortest path to your solution.


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

DK Lieu said:


> Not a good solution. This Cartel part is on my "do not buy" list. The 5/16" male thread is made of aluminum, which should be avoided in threaded parts whenever possible and especially if the parts need to be assembled and disassembled frequently. Aluminum threads tend to gall and jam easily, if not kept clean and lubricated. We had a Team member with one of these top stabilizers jammed halfway in her riser. I had to take it to a machine shop to cut it off and drill it out.


What should one lubricate aluminum threads with if we have something that has them?


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## Zbone (Aug 4, 2012)

Thanx for sharing.


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## ThomVis (Feb 21, 2012)

dchan said:


> Not sure how "handy" you are and if you have access to some tools.
> 
> What I was thinking..
> 
> ...


It's called a shoulder bolt. If it were metric sizes, I would be grinding and cutting already, I have the bolts, nuts and cutters for both on standby. Buying the thread cutters in inch sizes would probably cost more then the stabilizer itself, and won't see much use. I do appreciate the thought you've put into it.
What I'm looking for now is what's called a standoff nut with 1/4"-20 female threads, outside diameter about 3/4" and about an inch long. I can screw the stabilizer in one end and the Doinker Adapter Screw in the other. Now to only find a webshop that sells them internationally (McMaster probably has them, but they don't like foreign visitors).



Warbow said:


> What should one lubricate aluminum threads with if we have something that has them?


Silicone spray or even better, copper paste. Needs cleaning and re-applying regularly.


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## Stash (Jun 1, 2002)

All you need to do is drill and tap half of the knurled piece (your last pic) into 5/16-24 and replace the 1/4-20 stud with a 5/16-24 stud of the right length. The 5/16-24 tap takes a letter "I" drill, which is about 6.9mm so a 7mm drill should work well enough. 

If you can't find a 5/16-24 tap or the long stud, let me know and I can arrange to send you what you need.

But better would be to remove the 1/4-20 stud from the stabilizer and drill and re-tap with 5/16-24 or replace it with the 1/4-5/16 screw you linked in your first post, then buy a regular 5/16-24 V-bar bolt.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

ThomVis said:


> It's called a shoulder bolt.


Over here generally a shoulder bolt would have a shoulder larger than the actual diameter. (so it doesn't go in all the way) The bolts I'm thinking of are just 5/16 - 24.

A tap is pretty cheap.

Have you tried ebay?

Found this in UK
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ex-RAF-Stor...259?pt=UK_CPV_Aviation_SM&hash=item1e6b5ab3cb

and you can check China locations for taps.

Are you real hot to get it soon?

DC


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## DK Lieu (Apr 6, 2011)

Warbow said:


> What should one lubricate aluminum threads with if we have something that has them?


Use a dry lube, such as Teflon in a solvent spray carrier, or a surfactant such as soapy water or Armor-All (flick off excess). Air-dry the parts (leaving the lubricant behind) before mating. Not a good idea to use a wet lube such as oil or grease, unless it is wiped off nearly completely, because a thick layer of oil or grease will attract and retain grit. Petroleum based oils also attack many plastics. I use a silicone based oil on some parts, but wipe of nearly all of it to leave a very thin, nearly dry layer. Worst combination is completely dry, un-lubricated threads in which a bit of grit is caught. Once the aluminum starts to gall, you'll have a difficult time getting the parts separated.


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## ThomVis (Feb 21, 2012)

dchan said:


> Over here generally a shoulder bolt would have a shoulder larger than the actual diameter. (so it doesn't go in all the way)


We call them chest-bolt (Dutch: borstbout) over here, but couldn't find an English translation for it. Did a quick google search with pictures and found a shoulder bolt like the one you showed, and thought bingo. Now I've read the wikipedia page and the correct name would be partially threaded?



DK Lieu said:


> I use a silicone based oil on some parts, but wipe of nearly all of it to leave a very thin, nearly dry layer.


We use copper-paste on dissimilar metals or when the nut/bolt combination isn't separated a lot, but should remain operable in the future (not seized together). I've done like you did with the silicone based oil, I've just used copper-paste. Or is that a bad idea?

Back on topic, no real progress, but I'm in PM conversation with dchan and hooktonboy and mailed a webshop after a tip. Progress will be reported.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

Watch your mail! Package is on its way.

DC


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## ThomVis (Feb 21, 2012)

dchan said:


> Watch your mail! Package is on its way.
> 
> DC


Package came in with the 3 bolts on the right.









Didn't get the new bolt in all the way, so I need a bench vice. For that I need to fix the lights in the "workshop" and for that I need .... Doh!
I hope I'll get round to all that and be able to mount the stabilizer before I go shooting today.

David, thank you so very much. This is definitely going to work.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

ThomVis said:


> Package came in with the 3 bolts on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


So for those of you trying to figure out that picture.

The knurled piece and the double threaded piece are the original 1/4"-20 devices.

All from grade 5 5/16"-24 bolts I had lying around left to right are
a 1/4" 20 to 5/16"-24 Male to male adapter
a second 1/4 5/16 adapter (male to male) with a longer studfor the 1/4" end. Did this in case Thom found that the first one was too short. Thom mentioned he has grinders and cutting tools.
The third is a 1/4-20 female to 5/16"-24 male with a 1/4"-20 bolt in it. Again just in case he needed another configuration depending on how he configured the other items. I figure he can cut off the head of the bolt if he needs a short threaded rod.

Since the shipping price was the same regardless of how many of these I packed (up to 4 lbs) I figured it would be cheaper to send a few items rather than try to build one and see if it worked.

Took about 15-20 minutes in the machine shop to fabricate the 3 bolts.. It probably took us longer to find the right dies and taps (Some were buried and a few broken taps were found, since we don't use them much) Now I know where all those tools are again.

Hope they work out.


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## ThomVis (Feb 21, 2012)

Here some pictures is the setup from Saturday:

















"Stole" the dampers from my old setup and went shooting. Started with the back-rods in the same configuration as I had on my old setup. I couldn't feel much difference between my old setup and this one, but that could be just me. Later adjusted the rods a bit more "out", so I can now set my arm without my leg bumping the rod, and unscrewing it in the process. I'm a happy shooter.
Now I need to find my heatgun and remove those dodgy stickers.

Thanks for al the input, and dchan for machining me the parts.


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