# Recently bought 2 New bows like some advice!



## tfrev (Jan 3, 2015)

I recently purchased a Bear Kodiak Hunter 60 AMO with a 45# draw and also a Bear Grizzly 58 AMO with a 50# draw. Both in good condition I have shot both. I purchased carbon fiber centershot arrows with turkey feather fletchings. They seem to shoot good but in air it seems like they kick out quite a bit. Is it just me plucking or is it the arrow?


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

It's really hard to tell, if you are new to shooting your recurves there's a good chance it you. This is probably the best $20 you could spend right now, a very good reference on shooting...http://www.lancasterarchery.com/shooting-the-stickbow-book-2nd-edition-by-anthony-camera.html

After you get more comfortable and develop some consistency, there is a good tuning procedure here; the section on bare shaft tuning is the meat of the article...http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html

You could try plugging your information, as accurately as possible, into this spine calculator and see what it recommends...http://www.3riversarchery.com/SpineCalculator.asp?pass=2

When you are just starting out just about any feather fletched arrow will work. You will want to tune your gear as your skills develop, but for now just work on learning to shoot and enjoy your bows.


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## Jim Casto Jr (Aug 20, 2002)

Don't know, and it would be difficult to help until we know the spine of your arrows, length of arrow, tip weight, nocking point height, and rest and side plate material.


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## tfrev (Jan 3, 2015)

100 grain tip with a 400 grain shaft. As for the nock im not sure. 29 inch arrow. I went to a shop and bought these arrows said they were great arrows for what im wanting to do which is eventually hunt. I just want to make sure whatever shot I take with not just injure the animal or induce suffering without being a kill shot. What's best arrow for recurves?


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## SuperGrizRiz (Jan 1, 2014)

I have found that my Super Grizzly likes a nock point about 3/8 inch high to the uderside of the string nock. Anything lower than that causes some wacky arrow flight. Thats a 55# bow, 28 inch draw, full length 340 spine arrows with weight tubes and 145 grain points. Total arrow weight is about 620 grains. I also shoot three under. Althought the nock point doesnt seem to change for me using 3 under or split. 

If you are sure your form is repeatable try nocking 1/8 high from square and fire a group. Repeat this 1/8 at a time and see what happens.


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## bigbenjammin (Jan 2, 2015)

Best is a very subjective characteristic. I am enjoying shooting the Redhead carbon arrows I got at Bass Pro. They are feathered and seem to work well for my current shooting configuration, but your mileage may vary. My nocks are relatively loose, which seems to suit my style. My daughter likes tight nocks on her strings and if she tries to shoot my arrows she gets frustrated quickly. Easykeeper's advice is spot on for me. Until my proficiency improves and I learn a lot more about tuning and what to look for to improve equipment performance, the arrows I am using are suitable for my current needs. The key here is that for any given equipment configuration, there will be an inherent performance characteristic that has little variation over time. When you have shot enough that your performance with the equipment you have is consistently performing, even if the groups are not that small, then you can begin excluding your skill variation from the equation and focus on tuning the equipment to improve performance. For instance, I am at the point now where I am shooting 6" groups at 20 yards consistently enough to know that my technique is approaching my minimum tolerance. I figure that I might be able to squeeze my groups down another inch or so, and the flyers should go to less than one in 100. When I achieve that or get reasonably close, then I will start really looking at the equipment and see what adjustments might improve function. Until then, it is all about training. It's pretty easy to get the equipment matched up close off the shelf these days, especially if you've got someone reliable helping you at the counter. While I'm sure the learning curve would be faster if the equipment were ideally tuned, my initial focus isn't so much on precision as it is on consistency. Training my mind and body always seems to be the biggest effort for these sorts of things.


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## jeeckel (Mar 22, 2013)

400 grain shaft? or do you mean 400 spine? I shoot a couple grizzlys 45# and 50# your hunter should be about the same. 500 spine cut at 29" 125gr. point fly great off mine. about 3/8 high on nock point. your 400 spine should be way to stiff


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## RealDakota (May 24, 2006)

My experience is similar to jeeckel's. After years of experimenting, I shoot 50-55# recurves and longbows with 500 spine shafts cut 29", 100 grain brass inserts, and 150 grain fixed-blade broadheads. Three 5" left wing helical feathers. Field points and broadheads alike fly as if they've been shot down a pipe.

I can get satisfactory results without the 100 grain brass insert, but I cannot make a 400 spine shaft with 125 grain point, much less a 340, tune for crap. Way too stiff.


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## Onfunien (Jan 6, 2015)

Genesis Bow is the latest best compound bow brand known to me so far. It comes with molded competition grip, lower mount stainless steel cable guard, cable slide. I am having this from so long and it comes as expected very nice, and packaging was good too. I personally suggest all to buy this at least once.


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