# Is the Samick Sage the best beginner bow?



## PLJ271 (Jul 15, 2017)

I'm hoping to get into traditional shooting. I've seen many recommendations for the Samick Sage as an very solid economical bow that can grow with the archer. I have been looking for a decent used setup. 

My question is: what other bows should I keep an eye out for? I'm looking for an economical option for a beginner shooter that is quality enough to eventually hunt with. 

Thanks in advance for any input. 


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## maddog20/20 (Oct 13, 2015)

Meh...to be honest, as a beginner, the Sage is one of the best bows out there. Great price point, nice shooting bow.

Here's my free advice that will make you an infinitely better archer: don't over bow. Most people end up thinking "hey, I shoot a 70# compound, so a 50# recurve should be no problem" and get a bow that causes them to develop some really bad habits to overcome.


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## PLJ271 (Jul 15, 2017)

maddog20/20 said:


> Meh...to be honest, as a beginner, the Sage is one of the best bows out there. Great price point, nice shooting bow.
> 
> Here's my free advice that will make you an infinitely better archer: don't over bow. Most people end up thinking "hey, I shoot a 70# compound, so a 50# recurve should be no problem" and get a bow that causes them to develop some really bad habits to overcome.


I'm planning on starting at 30# if I can find one and then hunting with around 45. 


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## Hank D Thoreau (Dec 9, 2008)

In my opinion the Sage is too short to be the best beginner bow. You are going to learn easier on a longer bow like a 66 inch Samick Polaris. The reason is that the longer string increases the angle where you hook, making the release easier. 

The Sage is a nice bow, but unless you have a short draw length, I think there are better learning options.


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## penumbra (Aug 23, 2016)

I like the Southwest Spyder infinitely better than the Sage. Better finish and fit all around. I have a Sage but it has Spyder limbs.


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## anotherwade (Dec 16, 2014)

I like my Samick Polaris, but you might not like it out there hunting, though you can cover up the white limbs. The Southwest Archery Spyder XL is another option. You can find it here:
https://www.southwestarcheryusa.com...oducts/spyder-xl-64-inch-takedown-recurve-bow

It is a 64" version of the Sage, and costs $149. Hard to beat for a learning bow. These bows are not particularly good looking, but they are "good enough." You can take them hunting and they will out perform the stuff available in the 1950s and 60s. But, your real effort should be in learning about arrow flight and practice, practice, practice.

Wade 

Wade


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

PL - 

In a word, No. But hear me out. 
First, there are a number of bows that look and shoot remarkably like the Sage. It's that basic a design. 
Used and/or vintage bows are also a good option, where you can get a better bow for less. 
Most used/vintage bows don't come with a warranty, but that's so low on the priority list of things to worry about, it really shouldn't be mentioned. 
Uber entry level ILF bows can be had for a few dollars more than the Sage. 

So, unless your draw length is over 29" (which could make the Sage a disaster), there's absolutely nothing wrong with the Sage, there are just too many other viable options to consider. 

BTW - Hopefully you'll learn sooner rather than later, that the word "best" rarely has any meaning. 

Viper1 out.


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## PLJ271 (Jul 15, 2017)

Viper1 said:


> PL -
> 
> In a word, No. But hear me out.
> First, there are a number of bows that look and shoot remarkably like the Sage. It's that basic a design.
> ...


What should I watch out for and what should I avoid in a vintage bow? Also, what are so good (see, fast learning, didn't use best) ILF bows to watch for?


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

PL - 

Other than the bow being in one piece (no crack, splits, major gashes, limbs twist are usually not a real concern), it has to follow the basic first bow principles: lighter than you think you can handle, longer than you think you need, cheaper than you can afford, and pretty generic in design. Getting replacement limbs for vintage take downs, while not impossible, might need a little more patience than with a current issue rig. 
Oh yeah, you should "like" it on a gut level. 

On the new list would be any ILF rig from SF. Their base models are usually under $200. 
The Hoyt Excel is a good all-around riser, but will increase your bill by about $100. On the other hand, it can be bow a training, target and hunting rig.

Viper1 out.


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## Macdoc18 (Dec 28, 2012)

be sure to shoot the Sage before buying. I struggled with the grip on the bow being too wide and bulky for comfort and it can not be replaced


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## youngguy (Aug 23, 2010)

Shoot a bunch if you can. I just shot a Holm made the other day and really wanted to get a recurve because of it. I shot a couple bows at the local shop, a Martin jaguar, a great tree gt hawk, and an old bear grizzly. I ended up with the old bear. Looks great and the shot felt way better then the new bows, especially that Martin (though the grip felt great on it). Just try a bunch of different bows if you can. 

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## fallhunt (Aug 2, 2013)

I agree with Viper1’s suggestion to include a “gut level” attraction to a bow in your choosing process.

In my very biased opinion, the overriding function of archery in our current society is to provide an archer with joy plus satisfaction. That joy can be the feel and appearance of the bow while shooting it, procuring meat, obtaining trophies, attaining some sought after score on targets, or hopefully a combination of those things.

Although archery retains inherent capabilities, a bow primarily functions in our current society as an enjoyable pastime rather than as a weapon of aggression, a weapon of protection, or a tool for gathering food for SURVIVAL. If your chosen bow does not enhance your shooting joy, then you have missed the entire point of acquiring it.

It is the journey rather than the destination. It is the enjoyable participation rather than serving some vital end. Being a fabulously accurate archer is pointlessly lacking any significant purpose or accomplishment unless you enjoy shooting your bow.


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## MOBIGBUCKS (Aug 12, 2006)

I have the longer version and its called the Journey; It's a fine bow and hunting bow for that matter. 

This is my third year with traditional and the Journey was my first bow. I actually have my first custom coming here in a few months; However, I'm sure the performance of the Journey will hold its own as compared to the more expensive bow.

Great bows all around IMO


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## anotherwade (Dec 16, 2014)

fallhunt said:


> I agree with Viper1’s suggestion to include a “gut level” attraction to a bow in your choosing process.
> 
> In my very biased opinion, the overriding function of archery in our current society is to provide an archer with joy plus satisfaction. That joy can be the feel and appearance of the bow while shooting it, procuring meat, obtaining trophies, attaining some sought after score on targets, or hopefully a combination of those things.
> 
> ...


Hear, hear. Well said fallhunt

Wade


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## UrbanDeerSlayer (Feb 10, 2012)

I personally would go with the 64" Spyder, as the Journey is no longer available. Especially if you are looking for something that is more "traditional" looking. If you are primarily going to be shooting at an indoor target range, with target archery being your primary focus, then the ILF recommendations by Viper are solid. Both will serve the purpose. And keep the draw weight under 35#.


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## Draven Olary (Jun 12, 2016)

PLJ271 said:


> I'm hoping to get into traditional shooting. I've seen many recommendations for the Samick Sage as an very solid economical bow that can grow with the archer. I have been looking for a decent used setup.
> 
> My question is: what other bows should I keep an eye out for? I'm looking for an economical option for a beginner shooter that is quality enough to eventually hunt with.
> 
> ...


If you are on a small budget it is a good option. Best option? It depends for who. If you are up to 28" draw length 62 AMO is OK. If you want to hunt later with it (the real point of your question), just buy a heavier set of limbs and you are ready. This can't be done with a vintage recurve - most of them are one piece and the ones that are take-down are rarely available and their price tag is above Samick Sage when on the market. The handle is not bulky, is slimmer than the vintage recurves I have and shot. It doesn't have a radiused shelf - most vintages don't have either. If you put vintage bow vs Samick Sage with what you want to do with it, Samick Sage wins it. 
If you can try some bows before buying one, it will be much better.


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## TGbow (Jun 24, 2016)

The Sage shoots better than a lot of custom bows I've owned.
The Spyder XL is the same as the Journey, 64 inches. 64 inches will be better to learn on IMO, you can always get the 62 inch limbs if you want later.


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## TGbow (Jun 24, 2016)

The Sage shoots better than a lot of custom bows I've owned.
The Spyder XL is the same as the Journey, 64 inches. 64 inches will be better to learn on IMO, you can always get the 62 inch limbs if you want later.


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## matt_gold (Apr 3, 2017)

I'm very much a learner right now, and I have a Sage. I love it, but then again, I have almost nothing to compare it to. I also have a 26.5 draw length so it works fine for me. My limbs are 35# and my setup is perfect for practice and improving my shot consistency and my form. I am totally happy with it.
My only input, as a beginner myself, (so take this with a massive grain of salt) is to be careful with which bow you buy...but not too careful. As in, don't take too long. I'd buy a bow at my local archery shop, in person, utilizing their expertise, and get shooting as much as possible.
After all, much like myself, your decision isn't really final as I doubt it's gonna be the last bow you ever buy.
My wallet just screamed as I typed that.


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

If I were just starting out I would go with an ILF riser like Viper suggested, even if I thought I would eventually prefer a wood riser bow, which I do. The ILF system is so versatile, with so many options for used or modestly priced new gear that you really can't go wrong (imo). A setup like that is easy to sell if you eventually want something a little fancier, which you probably will if you stick with the game. 

I would get one you like, even if it costs a little more. If you like your gear you will shoot it more.


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## maddog20/20 (Oct 13, 2015)

The problem with ILF being versatile is that it requires some modicum of education to utilize it. How does someone who's not familiar with traditional archery have the slightest clue what to choose??
I say just go with a simple setup that while some may argue there are better options if you know what you're doing, nobody can say is a BAD choice.

I'd just grab a Sage, go to work and then spend a year learning to shoot so that next year you'll approach that vast set of options having some idea of what you like and what those options mean. Could someone who's been shooting for years and tried different stuff make a decent ILF rig for the same price? Maybe? I don't think someone who's new to the sport could do the same thing.


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## GCook (Aug 22, 2016)

Worked well for me.

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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

maddog - 



> The problem with ILF being versatile is that it requires some modicum of education to utilize it. How does someone who's not familiar with traditional archery have the slightest clue what to choose??


Well, he doesn't, and at first, he doesn't need to. Snap the limb in, string it and go, just like any other bow.

As (if) the shooter learns more and has the inclination to do more, he has the option - or he can just leave well enough alone, and it will most likely shoot better than most one piece bows. 

Viper1 out.


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## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

maddog20/20 said:


> The problem with ILF being versatile is that it requires some modicum of education to utilize it. How does someone who's not familiar with traditional archery have the slightest clue what to choose??
> I say just go with a simple setup that while some may argue there are better options if you know what you're doing, nobody can say is a BAD choice.
> 
> I'd just grab a Sage, go to work and then spend a year learning to shoot so that next year you'll approach that vast set of options having some idea of what you like and what those options mean. Could someone who's been shooting for years and tried different stuff make a decent ILF rig for the same price? Maybe? I don't think someone who's new to the sport could do the same thing.


There's a book with all this info in it........."Shooting the Stickbow" ~$20 on Amazon, make that your first purchase.


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## maddog20/20 (Oct 13, 2015)

centershot said:


> There's a book with all this info in it........."Shooting the Stickbow" ~$20 on Amazon, make that your first purchase.


I agree that's money well spent. I bought it when I started.


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## PLJ271 (Jul 15, 2017)

maddog20/20 said:


> I agree that's money well spent. I bought it when I started.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It came in the mail yesterday!


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Guys - 

Thanks for the plugs. I think the term ILF still bugs some trad people, when all it is is a coupling system. 
Sure, it has advantages over most proprietary systems, but the thing is you don't have to use any of them. 
If you find you need those adjustments, they're there. 

Funny, I don't think the OP ever mentioned his draw length or even how tall he is. 
Maxing out at 28-29" on the Sage isn't a problem, but longer than that and it can be very problematic. You could probably get away with a long draw on a 62" ILF rig. 

One of my favorite Sage stories, was a few years ago, a guy came to me for instruction with a brand new 35# Sage and a dozen 1816s, from a well known and respected (in these parts) Pro-shop. No problem, right? Well, the guy had a 32" draw. If the stack on the Sage wasn't bad enough, look up the full length of an 1816. 

Viper1 out.


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## Hank D Thoreau (Dec 9, 2008)

Recognize, the question is whether a Sage is the best bow to learn on, and not whether it is suitable. If you have a shorter draw length then a Sage may be best for the money. If not, I think longer bows of similar price are better. The question was not about which bow you would rather hunt with.

A couple of years ago I set up a shooter I was teaching with a 30 pound Sage. I tried to draw it and decided that it did not like my 32 inch draw length. I felt like I was hitting a wall.

Did anyone mention that you should get "Shooting the Stickbow"? If not, it is really a good book.


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## PLJ271 (Jul 15, 2017)

Hank D Thoreau said:


> Recognize, the question is whether a Sage is the best bow to learn on, and not whether it is suitable. If you have a shorter draw length then a Sage may be best for the money. If not, I think longer bows of similar price are better. The question was not about which bow you would rather hunt with.
> 
> A couple of years ago I set up a shooter I was teaching with a 30 pound Sage. I tried to draw it and decided that it did not like my 32 inch draw length. I felt like I was hitting a wall.
> 
> Did anyone mention that you should get "Shooting the Stickbow"? If not, it is really a good book.


The book came in the mail yesterday. My draw length on a compound is 27", does that correlate to a recurve/longbow. 


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

PL -

Unless you're shooting the compound with a REALLY bent bow arm, you should be OK with the Sage, if that's the route you want to go.

Viper1 out.


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## anotherwade (Dec 16, 2014)

Tony, to clarify my thoughts on the Sage, the Sage is what Draven Olary has called a "good enough" bow, in that it will shoot more accurately than the beginner can shoot. It does have the limitation of being a short bow, if one is on the taller side. It is obviously not an ILF set up. It does utilize proprietary limbs. Its an inexpensive alternative for those who are unsure they will stick with archery. But every year people do take game with one.

As an OOF (official old fart) I bought a Samick Polaris because I don't hunt, and I needed the extra length because I am taller. I also bought your book, now misplaced, or loaned to another archer. I'll have to get another copy. (Your welcome. ) My grand daughter is just starting out in archery. We have her in a class with a respected coach. I plan to get her an ILF set up if she shows signs of sticking to it. For me, the term "trad" is blurry because, as I have mentioned, my uncle was shooting one piece recurves in the 60s with bow sites. Indeed, I use a bow site. While I may never advance beyond the Polaris 66" with bow site, I have hopes that my grand daughter will develop a love of the sport and will shoot all of the styles of both trad and compound bows. Archery has in reality always been about advancing technology.

Just my thoughts, YMMV.

Wade

PS: I always smile at your signature line, for it is so very true


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Wade - 

Not sure what you're clarifying buddy, I think we're on the exact same page. 
And most production bows will out shoot most shooters any day of the week.

I known a lot of shooters who bought the Sage and have used it successfully for years and just as many who upgraded after a few months. 
It's a very serviceable bow, it's just not the be all and end all of beginner bows. 

Viper1 out.


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## dnelsen (Dec 11, 2016)

maddog20/20 said:


> The problem with ILF being versatile is that it requires some modicum of education to utilize it. How does someone who's not familiar with traditional archery have the slightest clue what to choose??


It's trivial. Call Lancaster, tell them you want a low cost riser and limbs. They will ask a few questions, and point you in the right direction. Or ask here. Nothing to it.


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## Johnson17 (Feb 11, 2017)

The Sage is a great starting Recurve for several reasons: Price point, the fact that it takes down with no tools, it's a good looking recurve, you have the ability to swap limbs without buying a whole new bow and for around $250 or so with arrows, armguard and a tab... it's hard to beat


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## jrubin (Nov 13, 2017)

Also my first bow, no regrets


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## penumbra (Aug 23, 2016)

The Spyder is superior in every way. The Spyder XL is 64". I have a Sage riser with Spyder limbs and will soon buy another bow from South Western, makers of the Spyder. Trey have phenomenal customer service.


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## kentsabrina (Aug 23, 2017)

it is and it isn't

it all comes to personal liking

but apart form Sage, even under the Samick brand, there are other choices if u are willing to pay a bit more


u may wanna take a look, cheers
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5311429


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## JohnZhou (Oct 26, 2017)

For what it's worth, I love my Sage. It's my first bow and gave a very good impression of what archery is all about. There are many options out there. Sage is a safe bet and a no brainer. ILF are nice but there are so many options out there and may be little intimidating for a newbie. Do your homework before buying. My next bow will be an ILF bow. My only advice is don't go any cheaper than Sage. That is the bare minimum you should spend for a good introduction to archery.


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## SteveInTX (Nov 13, 2017)

That is an excellent book. I would also suggest watching "The Push" on YouTube. It's just over 2 hours, but full of info. I just started taking lessons a month ago (at age 64), and I love shooting. I'm also looking for my first bow. Kind of like looking for a wife: you don't want to make a mistake. But remember, you can still "date" (use the club's equipment). I thinking barebow. Everything about it appeals to me.


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## OxMan80 (Jan 25, 2015)

I decided to get back into shooting a recurve and went with a Toparchery 56" recurve. I believe it's a Hoyt clone aluminum riser at 56" probably not the best to just learn with, but I should be ok once I knock the dust off. $99 is hard to beat for a aluminum riser bow. I did over bow myself a bit at 50lbs and being 56" it stacks pretty hard with my 30" draw. Compared to a 70lb compound it feels like 80lbs quite a workout but mostly I'm just using a heavy leather work glove and my fingertips are pretty angry at me for it. lol

Bow shoots extremely consistently though much to my surprise. I figured on using it to just get back into the swing and pick up something nice before next season, but unless it magically explodes or something I imagine I will be hunting with it next year. Maybe chase some hogs next summer we'll see how long it takes to knock the dust off. Shooting howard hill style 20 yards I'm consistently 8" high, and 8" left. Bow shoots very fast but I'll probably upgrade to a real flemish twist string. It's very quiet considering I have nothing on it at the moment but a sting and a nock point. 

So it's good to know my consistency is good just gotta get my instinctive aim back. Which I know will come as I get used to how the bow shoots.


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## S4pient (Nov 14, 2017)

Hank D Thoreau said:


> In my opinion the Sage is too short to be the best beginner bow. You are going to learn easier on a longer bow like a 66 inch Samick Polaris. The reason is that the longer string increases the angle where you hook, making the release easier.
> 
> The Sage is a nice bow, but unless you have a short draw length, I think there are better learning options.


I second this. I have a 30" draw and bought a Sage after seeing people with similar draw weights saying it worked for them. I can't shoot it due to stacking.


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## creidv (Sep 21, 2008)

Been through a dozen bows, including a great shooting Das, and just recently got an new Samick Journey off ebay. At 64" it handles my 30" draw well, shoots a 350gr arrow better than I can, and, with a change to a decent string, has become my favorite range plunker. 
$100 bucks shipped and 15 more for a string, can't go wrong.


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## JohnZhou (Oct 26, 2017)

Samick Sage is the most popular beginner bow. Is it the best? Possibly... at that price point but debatable.


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## Draven Olary (Jun 12, 2016)

Another option is this:

https://www.southwestarcheryusa.com/products/spyder-xl-64-inch-takedown-recurve-bow

With the $20 off, it is right below SS


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## Dao (Apr 7, 2015)

another option for low cost bows and plenty to choose from

http://www.galaxyarchery.com/products/


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## RobertGate (Aug 15, 2017)

I see some options that suit you here: https://archerytopic.com/best-compound-bow/


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