# D.i.y climber chain replacement



## omenshooter10 (Oct 6, 2011)

step one:
pull the chain out of the package and find the center link.

step two:
grind the rivets flat to the chain on the center link using a angle grinder.









step three:
use a hammer and flat screwdriver to seperate the center link of the chain to make two even lengths of chain.









step four:
clean the packing grease/oil off the chain first with carb cleaner or brake kleen then wash the chain in hot soapy water to remove the residual cleaner and oils.









you should now have two equal length pieces of clean chain ready for the next step.









more coming!


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## omenshooter10 (Oct 6, 2011)

step five:
take the roll of shrink tubing and cut two pieces approximately 2 inches longer than one of the pieces of chain.









step six:
begin feeding the chain into the shrink tubing till there is one inch of tubing hanging off each end of the chains.









once finshed feeding the chain through it should now look like this:









for the next step you are going to need a heat gun such as this to shrink the tubing to the chain:









more coming!


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## omenshooter10 (Oct 6, 2011)

step seven:
grab the center of the unshrunk wrapped chain and hold it tight so the chain doesn't slip out of the tubing and begin to shrink the tubing to the chain using the heat gun.









your finished chain should look like this when completely done heat shrinking the tubing to it:









tell me doesn't the new chain look much safer than the old wore out chain:









step eight:
repeat the previous steps and complete the other chain so that you have two wrapped new chains:









more coming!


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## omenshooter10 (Oct 6, 2011)

step nine:
line up the old and new chains to know where to put holes through the new chain for adjusting the treestand to the tree:









step ten:
using the heat gun again heat up the tip of a screwdriver or bolt held by a pair of pliers to push through the new chain for the adjustment holes:









step eleven:
punch all the adjustment holes in the new chains using the old chain as a template as to where they need to be:









step twelve:
Install your new chains on your favorite climber:









looks a whole lot better and safer now, doesn't it? Be sure to test the chains on a tree after completed at a safe height if a failure occurs.

DISCLAIMER:
I AM BY NO MEANS A PROFESSIONAL. I AM MEARLY SHOWING YOU WHAT I DID TO MY STAND TO MAKE IT SAFER FOR ME. IF YOU CHOOSE TO DO THE SAME TO YOURS ANYTHING THAT MAY OR MAY NOT HAPPEN AS A RESULT IS ON YOU!

That being said hope you guys have a safe and great bow season!


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## bowhuntingrn (Jul 14, 2008)

That's pretty slick, I have an old homemade climber that could use an upgrade, may be tryin this soon.


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## Skunkworkx (Apr 2, 2011)

API want $29.99 each and this for $23-$24 for the pair ....Thank you 

My API Bowhunter doesn't need chains....yet. I will remember this one I hope :beer:


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## ldoyle (Jun 9, 2010)

What is that chain rated for ? I don`t know if I want to gamble my life or a bad injury on a " bycicle chain " when there is stronger stuff out there . But , that`s just my opinion .


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## omenshooter10 (Oct 6, 2011)

this is no "bicycle chain". This is the same exact chain that the stand came with originally. Before i made the new one's i checked the numbers on the links. the old one said a2040 on it and the new one says a2040 on it as well. I believe with this chain the climber was rated for 350#. It is a api grandslam magnum.


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## Skunkworkx (Apr 2, 2011)

Pitch: 1" 
Roller Width: 5/16" 
Ultimate Strength: 3,700 lbs.

and this one says 4300#
http://www.lucasindustrial.com/products/chain/roller_chain/extended_pitch_conveyor_type/C2040/


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## ldoyle (Jun 9, 2010)

Didn`t intend to offend anyone 
I should have said bicycle style chain . I just haven`t seen that style chain before . If it`s rated for that , then everything should be cool . Doesn`t hurt to ask though .


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## omenshooter10 (Oct 6, 2011)

No insult taken what so ever. If someone see's something differently it usually helps. I was just adding the info that I left out regarding the chain and matching it to the original equipment. I should have stated in the beginning to check your stand before starting this project to be sure you have the correct chain for your application.


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## Skunkworkx (Apr 2, 2011)

No harm....no foul 

2-3-or 10 sets of eyes/ears are better than 1


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## dbowling (Jan 14, 2004)

Been doing this for years only I use a clear plastic tubing for the chain, 5/8 i.d. x 3/4 o.d... can be purchased at rural king or any Ace Hardware store, it last 3 times longer then the shrink tubing. Ive also adapted the chains to a older North Starr climber, made it grip the tree twice as good as the cables and alot quieter, also put it on some old Hunters View Climbers, same results. Rural King has the chain for like 12.00 for 10 ft.....


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## 10point1 (Jun 1, 2004)

Very nice job.I have an older Summit that has cables instead of chain but now i know where to get the shrink tube.Oh by the way thanks again for the help on the roof.Drawing up some plans for a new press,posts and picts to follow.Love this site.


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## Hunterdale (Nov 28, 2009)

I like the idea of the clear plastic tubing as well. Maybe put a piece a foot or so long on the center of the chain were it contacts the back side of the tree, it would keep the heat shrink from wearing out against the tree bark.


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

I have been doing this exact thing for 5 plus years. Instead of putting the holes in ahead of time I just sharpen the end of my spring pins and push through as needed. This also reminds me where to set the chain for trees I have hunted before. Pushes through the shrink tube with NO PROBLEM and some of my chains have double the shrink tube.


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## S.F. steve (Mar 1, 2010)

thanks skunk i found it.


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## spflugradt (Sep 7, 2009)

Can someone do me a favor and post pics of the way the chain mounts onto the stand??? I have an old climber that is pretty heavy but it's one that we find a good spot for just prior to season and then just leave it on the tree..... It uses an attachment system that is less than acceptable in my opinion and this would give me a good way to lose a little weight as well as get better hold on the tree. Thanks for the idea yall'.

Steve


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

PLEASE DO NOT grind the rivets and push out the pins and leave the rollers in place. I did this the first time I built a set and almost had a problem. My cousin hunted my stand one year and decided to move the stand, which I told him NOT to do, and while installing on a larger tree put the pin through the end where there was a roller with NO PIN through it. Needless to say when he pulled on the top of the stand to climb in the stand hit him in the face, luckily it was padded in that area. After that happened I ONLY cut through the center of the link with a cut-off wheel so each roller has a pin through it!!!!! I do not let anyone borrow my stands anymore either unless they go through my training class on proper use. These chains are as good as the API chains, I have been using them for years!!


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

I also double the shrink tubing on my chain sets for added durability.
ALSO, instead of melting the holes in my chains I sharpen the end of the spring pin rod so I can just push it through the tubing when afield. Seems the melted holes are never in the correct spot for me.
I also have one chain with the clear tygon tubing on it but it was a bear to put on, does hold up to the cold better though!!


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## S.F. steve (Mar 1, 2010)

i take it you had no problem with the chains going into the framework of the stand with the shrink tubing doubled up?


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## Corn Fed (Apr 14, 2011)

Good job. This is how i did mine. Very durable. http://www.guncustomizing.com/API-Treestand.htm


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

I build my own climbers and have no issues with the shrink tube being doubled up, not sure about API stands.


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## Krypt Keeper (Oct 10, 2007)

pretty slick at saving money just by doing a few minutes of work you got them at half the price.


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## super* (Jan 26, 2008)

Hey i didnt know that API was even still in business!


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## VonH (Oct 15, 2008)

I did the same thing earlier this fall. Instead of heat shrink I used rubber tubing. Stand is super quiet now, but sometimes tough to get a pin through the tubing.


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## Southman1 (Oct 29, 2013)

RatherBArchery... how come you decided to go get another chain from Tractor Supply. I am needing a replacement, but I was thinking after reading through your design to just reuse the chain and proceed to just rewrapping the chain that came with the stand. Your thoughts? Thanks for the information by the way. I am in the same pinch now as you were.


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

I do not have an API stand but build my own climbers and use a similar chain system. If you have an API with a chain that isn't rusted I would reuse it. I am not sure you will find the shrink tubing at Harbor Freight anymore, they package it differently now and sell it with a bunch of different sizes If I would of known I would of stockpiled!!


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## handirifle (Jun 9, 2005)

I am building my own climber and have been wondering about the chain/cable portion of it. This post solves that problem. I do have a question though, why go through the process of cleaning the chain first? Since the tubing will seal it, seems to me like the lube in the chain would insure it does not rust or corrode, plus no squeaking. It would just be messier to work with.


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## italian biker (Sep 9, 2008)

I believe he would clean the packing oil off because it would carry too much scent. I also have that same stand, close to 15 years now. I would think that type of shrink wrap would not last long, especially when heated tight to the chain. I think bending the links would rip the tubing after a few times, let alon the bark on some trees. 
BTW, I did replace the chains with the API ones from Bass Pro a few years back. I don't remember them being that much in cost though. Wouldn't need grinding of the rivets either.


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

The Harbor Freight shrink tubing does last a while, especially if you double it. I don't clean the oil off as it keeps the chain from rusting but then again I store mine inside and do not leave it in the woods.


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## bsites9 (Mar 22, 2008)

I need to do this. I got the same stand as the OP off of a cousin. He only hunts from the ground now, so he just gave me the stand. I don't have the tools to cut the chain though.


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## Krypt Keeper (Oct 10, 2007)

got a dremal? 

i use that to cut 10,000lb motorcycle chain when its time to do put on new chain and sprockets on my bikes. 

or trusty old hacksaw will do the job with a good metal fine tooth blade


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## sbelcher (Oct 7, 2013)

I have an older hunters view stand that uses a cable to attach. The loops in the cable have started to rust and I won't climb with that anymore. Will this chain system work with the pins that install verticle as well as horizontal? Just wondering since the chain will only flex in 1 direction


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## OlJanet (Aug 25, 2021)

Well, this is a long shot and sorry if its taboo to dig one up this old but I recently acquired a stand with chains that says Grand Slam Lite Supreme. One of the black plastic inserts is broken. Do these need to be in there with a new chain? I need to replace the chain due to rust.


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