# Yardage Markers



## barebow52 (Nov 7, 2007)

Need ideas for yardage markers on a field course. what does your local range use?


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## benzy (Oct 23, 2006)

I'm in the same boat. I'm interested to hear this also.

I want to be able to mow over ours. I thought about painted bricks, or red solo cups filled with cement, (cheap) then painted and buried flush with the ground. ???


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

Steel plate with the numbers welded into them. Just paint them every year or so.


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## DHawk2 (Feb 18, 2007)

I like the solo cups with concrete painted and buried myself. Sounds cheap, easy and effective.


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

Concrete core samples is what most local clubs use around here. Bury vertical and paint the face


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## Mitchhunt (Jan 31, 2011)

We use painted bricks on our course. It's cheap and fairly easy to maintain. We just repaint every 4 - 5 years or so. We converted one of our field courses to a 3D course many years ago and you can still see some of the bricks on the course today. I actually use them sometimes to mess with people. I'll set the 3D target about 7 yards closer than where the field target was and then put a stake right by the brick. You'd be suprised how many people shoot a high 5 on that target.


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## red1691 (Jun 8, 2007)

RatherBArchery said:


> Concrete core samples is what most local clubs use around here. Bury vertical and paint the face


x2 We found a lab in our area and they are glad to get rid of the leftover ones they don't use. But bricks work good too!


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

Most of the clubs I shoot at use concrete or bricks also. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## hdracer (Aug 8, 2007)

Round concrete markers one of our field shooters made. About 10" round, 1 1/2" thick. Painted and numbered. Leave them in the ground permanently.


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## rock monkey (Dec 28, 2002)

i used old 6x8 pavers at first. sealed em with kilz, painted and then stenciled the distances as needed.

problem is that our course has terrible drainage and in the spring, the ground is really soft....like gooey mud soft. the pavers would sink, move around and really arent the friendliest way to keep the distance accurate. once the ground dries and hardens, then they work great.....until the leaf litter blows around and covers em after they've sunk below surface.

i brainstormed and came up with the rebar and rebar cap stakes. we had plenty at the club, i just needed to count out, paint, glue and number them. i tape the lane, make a hole about 10-12" deep with a 3/8" drilling rod and slide the stake in. they stay above the leaf litter, easy to repair when needed. and do look pretty nice. easier to place if you have a very rocky ground beneath the topsoil, like we have.


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## wa-prez (Sep 9, 2006)

Those with the rebar top cap look real nice.

We use a 9" length of 2x2 wood (get plenty from people who make porch railings)

Drill a whole in the bottom end, put in 3/8" diameter rebar 18" long. Prime and paint the wood, lasts a long time.

Went to the rebar in ground to keep the wood elevated. So wet here wood in the ground rots off at ground level. Even the rebar looks like an icicle after a few years.

Advantage of this stake is we can move them around when we shoot 3D events.

You can see a couple stakes in this photo. We mark the target number and distance on a vinyl sleeve made of off-cast from boat awning shop. Easy to pull all the sleeves when we shoot unmarked distance, put them back on for Field or Safari.


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