# Allegiance timing marks



## JAMEY_70 (Nov 6, 2004)

On my allegiance there is 2 black lines drawn on the bottom cam along the limb with what appears to be a sharpie marker is this supposed to be the timing marks? My brace height is only 6 3/4" and i need to move it out to 7. I seen a post about 1/16 from the cable loop peg to the limb i think. Any one have a close up pic of the cam in tune.


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## little buddy (Dec 20, 2004)

JAMEY_70 said:


> On my allegiance there is 2 black lines drawn on the bottom cam along the limb with what appears to be a sharpie marker is this supposed to be the timing marks? My brace height is only 6 3/4" and i need to move it out to 7. I seen a post about 1/16 from the cable loop peg to the limb i think. Any one have a close up pic of the cam in tune.


I would like to see a pic off a properly timed cam also.


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## Dave Nowlin (May 21, 2003)

Why do you guys need a picture. Reading seems to be a dying art in America. Everyone wants a picture. O.K., so you get a word picture.(1) The top and bottom cams need to be timed so that the lobe the string attaches to is 1/16 inch from the front face of the limbs. In other words there is a 1/16 inch gap between the limb face and the lobe. All this needs to be done keeping in mind that the A to A on these bows is 33 5/8 inch and the Brace Height is 7 inch. These measurements are plus or minus 1/8 inch. If I have already lost you and you can't figure out how to achieve this. Take your bow to your dealer and let him do this. (2) Once these conditions outlined in step #1 have been met, you can do any one of the following. Take 1 turn in the cable to the top cam and take out 1 turn from the cable to the bottom cam. (this won't change your draw length) Take 2 turns in the cable to the top cam. (this will lengthen your draw length slightly) Remove 2 turns from the cable to the bottom cam. (this will shorten your draw length slightly) (3) Once one of these three has been done check to make sure your let off is 80%. If it is you are good to go. If it is slightly less, the you must either remove 1 turn from the cable to the bottom cam or take 1 turn in the cable to the top cam and recheck your let off. This should surely have you in spec. Should you decide to add a fall away to one of these bows the following should be done (1) attach the string from the fall away 6 inches below it's attachment point at the rest, it should be tied into the down cable (2) the rest should be timed to come full up at the last 1/2 inch of draw cycle (3) now you must do any one of the 3 things mentioned in step#2 of the first section to counteract the slight amount of pressure applied to the down cable. This is necessary to avoid nock travel issues and restore 80% let off. If you should decide to add a Windstalker Cable Guide to your Allegiance, guess what. You must play with your cables again to restore proper let off. When all this is done you should be through until you wear out the set of strings on your bow. Then guess what? You get to do it all again.
Dave Nowlin
P.S. How's that for a picture. If you still don't get it watch Sesame Street for a few days and try again.


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## little buddy (Dec 20, 2004)

Dave, thank you for the detailed post. The one question I have is this, the lobe on my cam is about 1/16th behind the limb face. I have never messed with the string or cables. Do I add a few to the top and remove from the bottom to get that 1/16 gap I want? Thanks for the help...Lee


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## Dave Nowlin (May 21, 2003)

You have to answer a question for me first. What is you present A to A? If it is longer than 33 3/4 inch, then first take 1 twist in the string. Then remeasure, if it is still more take 1 more twist in the string. Don't take any more than 2 twists in the string. If A to A is less then 33 3/4 inch don't touch the string unless it is less than 33 1/2 inch. After that begin adding twists to the top cable and removing twists fom the bottom cable. Don't get reckless here. Go 1 on each end and check before adjusting another twist. As I said before once you get both lobes at 1/16 inch, then you must seperate them by 2 twists, favoring the top cam. I have already outlined the method in my previous post.
Dave Nowlin


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## MQ32Lover (May 7, 2003)

mine came from the factory with the same (permanent marker) slashes on both cams indicating the timing. makes it real easy to keep it shooting great.


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## Jerry/NJ (Jan 17, 2003)

MQ32Lover said:


> mine came from the factory with the same (permanent marker) slashes on both cams indicating the timing. makes it real easy to keep it shooting great.


Mine did too and it was off big time but that was when the first ones came out so I would think QC is much better now.


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## Jbird (May 21, 2002)

*Timing an Allegiance*

I don't think that having the edge of the brass posts the string attaches to be 1/16" from the limb holds true in all cases and cam sizes. My Allegiance has #9 cams on it and when you set the the string and cables to factory specs and put two twist in the top cable, the edge of the knobs are approximately 1/4" from the limbs on both limbs. This gives me 33 3/4" a to a and 7" brace height.
Jbird


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## Keenedge (Jul 2, 2005)

*Timing*

Nowlin is correct in cam position, but they are rough measurements due to the fact you can not measure precise with a tape measure for your 33 3/4 ATA. My original cables stretched out quite a bit and it took 6 full cable turns (both cables) to get it back to max draw weight. I feel that now that my cables have stretched, they should either stretch less or stop all together. I can tell you that the string itself needs half a turn, but then that requires me having to put up with shops trying to sell me something. I know this because my lobes are right on the limb.

One thing about the rest I have is that I dont have it set up 6 inches away, I have it set up parallel (almost straight out with slack). It seems to work, but if 6 inches gives better clearance...


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## Traven (Jun 17, 2003)

On my Allegiance, the timing marks on the cam are correct with the limbs but my a to a is 34 1/2. By taking twist out of the string what will it effect, draw length, timing marks on cam etc, etc, thanks


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## strayarrow (May 7, 2003)

*timing*

do a search of allegiance timing, or allegiance tuning here on AT. There is one of the posts, which has many replies, that has a pic of the timing if it helps.


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## Deer_N_Beer (Apr 26, 2005)

how do you tell which cable is top or bottom? they both attach to the top and bottom!! Can someone unconfuse me?? ha

thanks


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## Jbird (May 21, 2002)

*Top Cable*

The one that is referred to as the "top cable" is the one that is attached to the peg on the outer perimeter of the top cam.
Jbird


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## Dave Nowlin (May 21, 2003)

I will explain this again. I believe I have already covered this 3 or 4 times in the last 3 or 4 months but here we go again.
Binart Cam Nomenclature :
(1) the track on the cam closest to the riser I refer to as a takeup drum as it doesn't offer any mechanical advantage (hence it isn't a cam)
(2) the center track is a true cam and does offer mechanical advantage
(3) The outside track relative to the riser is the string track
Please everybody, print this and put it with your tuning papers so I won't have to explain this every 2 or 3 weeks. I try to be a patient man but I seem to keep recovering the same ground. Let's try to get all the Binary Cam boys up to speed now. Bow season is just around the corner.
Dave Nowlin


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## Deer_N_Beer (Apr 26, 2005)

Thanks JBIRD....


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## ZA206 (Oct 28, 2004)

*Lightbulb Goes....... On?*

Well we had more adventures with my Allegiance yesterday (see my post in the tuning section).

Just a slight clarification that needs to be made to Dave's directions. The piece that a cable or string attaches to on the cam should NOT be called a "lobe"..... instead, let's all call it a POST!

That got me and my tech into BIG trouble yesterday. I misunderstood Dave's reference to the lobe.... b/c I had seen another post on here a while back that had a picture of someones cam and the pointed to a "lobe" on the cam as the timing feature.... this was NOT the post. Therefore I made Dave's reccommended settings using the WRONG reference point!!! OUCH! Can you say unrecoverable/locked cams?
DAMMIT! See my post in the tuning section for more details and a laugh.

-ZA206


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## Jerry/NJ (Jan 17, 2003)

Z, And I thought I had some bad luck goin..........

Those marks are a joke........tune it like Dave says and make your own marks!


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## little buddy (Dec 20, 2004)

I can't see any factory marks on my cams. I must be very lucky with my state of tune though. I have great arrow flight with broadheads on top of my target points. Even my bare shafts are on the mark. All this is from thirty yards.


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## Don_G (Aug 2, 2005)

*Allegiance timing picture*

I have been a Mathews Solo cam owner and fan for 8 years. I just went to the "dark side" and bought an Allegiance. I know absolutely nothing about binary cam bows. I have searched for and read all the posts I found here on Allegiance tuning. There seems to be some confusion in the posts about which "lobes" Dave is talking about. I found the picture of the Allegiance cams.

Here's the link to the original thread: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=176802&highlight=Allegiance+timing+picture

I'll try to attach the photo directly.

I'd like to verbally separate the two features pointed two in the picture into "lobe" and "string post" rather than calling both of them lobes. 

Dave, am I right in saying that the "lobes" (NOT the "string posts") should be evened up with 1/16 exposed, and then bias the top cam by 2 or 4 turns depending on what you have tied to the down cable?

My A-to-A is 34", and brace height is 6-15/16. I get 319 fps with a 400 grain arrow (BC says 322, so I'm close.) It's nice and quiet. The lobes are even with the limbs. So it seems to me that I can get the initial timing by trying 2 twists in the string, I will try this after I shoot it a few hundred shots to settle the string.


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## Don_G (Aug 2, 2005)

*Revised Text Allegiance Cam Timing Picture*

Is this better terminology?


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## ZA206 (Oct 28, 2004)

*Exactly....*

I had confused the issue originally.... Dave's "lobe" = string post
the "lobe" I was reffering to is the "lobe" on your diagram. :thumbs_up 
BTW, FORGET the "lobe" in your diagram!!!!!!!!!

You have it WRONG! Dave says to get a 1/16" gap between the string posts and the top edge of each limb. (Use a 1/16" allen wrench to check it) THEN add 2 or so full twists to the top cam cable... this will draw the post closer than 1/16" towards the top limb and ****** it's timing with the bottom cam slightly. It makes a huge difference in your letoff!!!!!! He's right, if you set them both at 1/16" gaps, you will only get 70-65% letoff, even with the drawstop peg moved all the way over to max letoff!

-ZA206


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## Dave Nowlin (May 21, 2003)

We're talking about the post the string is attached to. I'm sorry so many people seem confused about this of late. I figured when I said "String" lobe folks would figure out what I meant. The other is simply a lobe, it has no string attached.  
Dave Nowlin


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## Don_G (Aug 2, 2005)

Dave,

Thanks for chiming in. 

On my 30", 80# Allegiance the Axle-to-Axle is 40" and the string posts are about 1/32" covered by the limbs. The posts are in the same position on each end. From this starting point I think it will take more than two twists in the string to bring them around to 1/16" showing. 

How many twists can I safely add to the string? (Assuming I never go below 33-1/2" and never get more than 1/16 clearance on the string posts.

Thanks.


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## Dave Nowlin (May 21, 2003)

Proceed with caution. What gets people in trouble with these bows is when you get one cam out of tune with the other by about 5 twists. Then you get one cam trying to roll one way and the other going the opposite way. Begin by taking abot 6 twists in your string. Then without drawing the bow observe where your string posts are relative to the limbs. Do what is necessary to get them both 1/16 inch from the limb face. Then remeasure A to A. If still too short repeat the procedure. When you get the A to A correct then make sure your string posts are 1/16 inch from the limb face and then put 2 twists in the cable for the top cam. Don't draw the bow at all until all these measurements are correct.
Dave Nowlin


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## goldtip22 (Oct 14, 2004)

Your axle to axle on an Allegiance is 40 inches!? Is that possible if the cables and string are the correct length? That's over 6 inches too long and whole lot of twisting to make up 6 inches.


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## Don_G (Aug 2, 2005)

*80# Allegiance Cam timing*

GoldTip22 Sorry- fat fingers. A2A was 34.0 inches! (BTW, I'm using GT22s with GT5575s epoxied inside, with a 175 grain tip and 48 grain vanes. Gives me 703-707 gr arrows -- just right!)

Dave, I took two twists in the string. It moved the posts up about even with the limb - still symmetrical. So 4 four more twists is probably about right. (Maybe you've done this before?  )

Will report on progress,


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## Don_G (Aug 2, 2005)

*80# Allegiance Cam timing*

It took 14 twists in the string to get the A2A down to 33-3/4. The cams lined up perfectly at that point with both posts right at 1/16 clearance. The top post is just an RCH closer to the limb than the post on the bottom cam, so I did not add the 2 twists of bias in the upper cable. The let-off feels really good, but I don't have a pull scale to check it. 

The brace height has actually come down from 6-15/16 to 6-7/8. That seems backward from what I'm used to as you lower the A2A. Maybe I measured it wrong the first time. It's obvious from the VFT design that the brace height changes very slowly (if at all) with A2A, but I did expect it to get bigger as the A2A comes in.

I'll try it like this a while to see what develops. (First I have to develop myself. I've been pulling 65# for years, and this 80# is killing me!)

Thanks for the help.


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