# Timing board



## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

Here's the ultimate tool for us tinkerer's. Cam timing, Bow weight, Draw length, Letoff adjustments, this combo can do it all. Saves on RC joint too. 

2x6 cut @ 54 inches
600 lb trailer winch
7 inch 1/2 bolt, nut and washers
1/2 sleeve, (5/8 outside diameter) inside 2x6 for 1/2 bolt
garden hose over 1/2 bolt
100 lb Pelouze scale
10 ft. of 3/8 nylon rope


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

*Timing Board*

Pic 2


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

*Timing Board*

Pic 3


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## WIHoyt (Nov 22, 2004)

Awsome!! mostly that you are putting ideas into use. If I had the room for another apparatus in my basement I'd build one myself.


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## johnhames (Apr 9, 2003)

tbailey said:


> Here's the ultimate tool for us tinkerer's. Cam timing, Bow weight, Draw length, Letoff adjustments, this combo can do it all. Saves on RC joint too.
> 
> 2x6 cut @ 54 inches
> 600 lb trailer winch
> ...


How long is the board? It looks raw cut, is it a 2x8?


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## Jerry/NJ (Jan 17, 2003)

tbailey said:


> Here's the ultimate tool for us tinkerer's. Cam timing, Bow weight, Draw length, Letoff adjustments, this combo can do it all. Saves on RC joint too.
> 
> 2x6 cut @ 54 inches
> 600 lb trailer winch
> ...


Looks good ! Similar to mine except mine is vertical. Now all you need is to add a yard stick and you can plot a graph etc for each bow. :thumbs_up


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

*Tuning Board*

John,

The 2x6 is 54 inches long which is long enough to allow a 32 inch draw and the bow scale. The board is a rough cut so I plan to staple carpet to the top of it.

I meant to name this thread tuning board, but I typed timing board. I'm dyslexic today.


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## johnhames (Apr 9, 2003)

tbailey said:


> John,
> 
> The 2x6 is 54 inches long which is long enough to allow a 32 inch draw and the bow scale. The board is a rough cut so I plan to staple carpet to the top of it.
> 
> I meant to name this thread tuning board, but I typed timing board. I'm dyslexic today.


If that board was finshed it would be only 1 1/2 " thick. Do you think a finished 2x6 is enough to feel you had overkill for strength? That's how I like to build everything.


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

Big time strength. I'm sure a 2x4 would work fine, but I like the larger surface area for the bow's riser to lay on so I used a 2x6.


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## Backwoods (May 23, 2003)

That is a great idea. If I could make a couple of suggestions, I dont think a 2x6 is strong enough to hold that 1/2" bolt. I have seen to many split length ways and that is a lot of stress right there. I would have two metal caps made at the local welding shop to fit over each end of the 2x6. Run the anchor bolt and winch bolts through the metal caps. I would also use a grade 8 3/4" bolt or even bigger. I really like it though, gonna have to build me one.


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## Dave Nowlin (May 21, 2003)

Before I spent the money having special metal end caps made, I would simply get a treated 4 x 6 post and cut it to length and build this apparatus.
I don't believe you will have that split.
Dave Nowlin


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## Jerry/NJ (Jan 17, 2003)

I use a treated 2x4 and it works fine........had it about 6 years now.


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

*Pelouze Digital Hanging Scale*

I guarantee this thing won't split with that sleeve. If anyone is interested in the digital scale you can purchase for $89 + shipping at the following link

http://www.americanweigh.com/produc...d=381&osCsid=df49fe7a34c12920460b3cab429fae46


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## gafferq2xl (Aug 1, 2003)

*Me likes*

Overall, I would say an excellent rig. The digital scale is an exceptionally nice touch with function. :thumbs_up 

Double bonus points for the sweet work room!!


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## WEBEJAMIN1 (May 23, 2004)

cooooool


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## RazorTag (Jun 21, 2004)

I have a constructive question about your design. Is it necessary to use a bolt contacting on the grip to hold the bow against the pull of the winch? It just looks a little unstable to me. I would be worried about bumping it and causing it to slide one way or the other and cause a crash. What about using a pair of bolts that fit through riser cutouts? The only difference I would imagine is any deflection of the riser itself would not be present with the two bolts through the riser fixture. Just a thought. Maybe it is very stable the way you have it.

R/T


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## P.L. Archery (Apr 14, 2005)

RazorTag,

You can get a false weight reading when you draw the bow against the outward portions of the riser. Alot of bows flex that much unfortunatly. Besides, the bow is designed to be drawn with only pressure at the throat of the grip.

Next time your in a pro shop draw a bow on their didgital hanging scale, once with two hands out near the limb pockets and once with just pressure at the grip. Most non tec-riser bows will have two different readings.


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

RazorTag said:


> I have a constructive question about your design. Is it necessary to use a bolt contacting on the grip to hold the bow against the pull of the winch? It just looks a little unstable to me. I would be worried about bumping it and causing it to slide one way or the other and cause a crash. What about using a pair of bolts that fit through riser cutouts? The only difference I would imagine is any deflection of the riser itself would not be present with the two bolts through the riser fixture. Just a thought. Maybe it is very stable the way you have it.
> 
> R/T


Its very stable. You should use the same principle when drawing the bow during the act of shooting. The only pressure exerted should be in the throat of the grip. :smile:


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## PeterM (Jun 24, 2005)

Would this setup still work on 80lbs bows?

And what stop the bow from swinging around and heading to the user at some grate rate, as the bow in the pictures looks like it on an angle when at full draw?


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## opa (Jul 19, 2003)

You can even skip the winch: if you use make clever use of a strap you can half the force needed to pull your bow.
Advantage is that you don't have 1/2" increments from the winch but can set it at any length, and it's less bulky.
Without very much effort I can pull 90 lbs (just tried it with a hanging scale): anyway if you can pull your bow at 80 lbs why shouldn't you easily pull half of that on the board?
To pull or loosen you need to push the "buckle" (if that's the right term); fairly fool proof, cause if you'd loos grip it automatically slams shut.

Mine is 1.5" thick hardwood, the peg is a piece of piping just under 1" covered with foam rubber to keep the riser from sliding. Pipe fits tight in a hole drilled in the board.

If interested, I'll post some close up pics.

Opa


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## mbsa (Sep 2, 2005)

*D-Loop*

What about attaching directly to the string instead of the d-loop? I would like to make one of these but would be afraid of the d-loop breakingukey:


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## FS560 (May 22, 2002)

mbsa, why would you be concerned about attaching to the d-loop if you are not afraid to draw the same weight on the bow when shooting it. The d-loop either holds or it does not.

________________
The post holds the bow in the deepest part of the throat, not like your hand holds the bow when shooting. Timing a two cam bow on a device like this is wasted effort because of this difference.

My crank board is about 30 years old and used very little, due to the reason outlined above. The only thing I use it for anymore is to check limb tip deflection at full draw on a new bow or new limbs.


Jim Quarles


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

I haven't used this board with an 80 lb bow, but I'm sure it would do fine as I've done 70 lb bows with no problem. As far as the bow tipping during draw it is no difference than when shooting the bow, the pivot point stays the same.

That doesn't mean you couldn't hastily crank the bow back and not pay attention to the limbs being fairly even in relation to the pivot point. In other words if you start cranking without steadying the bow it can come twist through the pivot point and slide off the vertical bolt/hose.

You are correct the bow does have a slight tilt once completely drawn, but that is due to the geometry of the grip being lower on every bow's riser. I haven't tried this board on any bow without a d-loop, but I'm sure it would work.

As far as the draw length increments of the boat trailer winch it is about 1/8, not 1/2 inch as a previous post stated.


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## mbsa (Sep 2, 2005)

FS560,
I always have a arrow nocked, that way no dry-fire. I just thought it would be safer on the string?


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

*I added a turnbuckle to fine tune the cam timing*

TBailey's design is excellent.

I added a turnbuckle so that I could sneak up on full draw
as the draw module stops get close to touching the string.


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## PeterM (Jun 24, 2005)

nuts&bolts said:


> TBailey's design is excellent.
> 
> I added a turnbuckle so that I could sneak up on full draw
> as the draw module stops get close to touching the string.


Yes I saw this (in a pervious post of yours), and yep your right it is a good extra add-on so I added it to the list when I was down the hardware shop putting all this together.


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## MikeK (Dec 30, 2003)

WIHoyt said:


> Awsome!! mostly that you are putting ideas into use. If I had the room for another apparatus in my basement I'd build one myself.


Ditto!

Space holds me back from a lot of interesting project. But this is a nice gadget.


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## Jerry/NJ (Jan 17, 2003)

Remember this board does not have to be horizontal. You can make one vertical as well.


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

That's why I use the Black and Decker Workmate. I just fold the bench up and place the board in a corner of the garage.


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

ttt


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## intheXring22 (Jul 6, 2005)

Jerry/NJ said:


> Remember this board does not have to be horizontal. You can make one vertical as well.


This is correct I actually like mine better vertical I can work with the cam lean a heck of alot easier.


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## pyroarch57 (Jul 13, 2006)

tbailey said:


> Here's the ultimate tool for us tinkerer's. Cam timing, Bow weight, Draw length, Letoff adjustments, this combo can do it all. Saves on RC joint too.
> 
> 2x6 cut @ 54 inches
> 600 lb trailer winch
> ...


All, except nock travel.


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## edthearcher (Nov 2, 2002)

*drag board*

if I may offer a suggestion I have used one for years, place a tee on the post end to support your limbs. I have no way to post a picture or I would. your bow must be square or you will not get a true picture of your roll over and draw stops. some where in AT files is a picture of one do a serch your on the right track I use a 5/16 coated bolt I find that helps me get down into the riser better


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## practice-more (Nov 10, 2005)

Here is a link to another discussion on the topic.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=378156

Mitch


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## rdobias (Jun 24, 2003)

ttt


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## Bowhunter53 (Jul 24, 2004)

looks good- looks like it would be better vertically and for cam timing only. for poundage hang a scale from a joist.


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## rdobias (Jun 24, 2003)

ttt


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## HeadHunter (Jul 2, 2003)

Where did you find the 600# winch? (Double action I presume!)


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## avid archer (Jul 6, 2004)

get one at the local marine store. they are used to pull boats on to the trailer


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## Jerry/NJ (Jan 17, 2003)

Here is a pic of mine, nothing fancy but it gets'er done. :wink:


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## Phoenix34 (Jan 18, 2005)

Great looking boards guys, I'm going to have to get to work on one myself.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Built a workbench.

Modified it so it also can be a vertical draw board.

Two way ratchet boat winch is a good idea.
I have a turnbuckle at the end of the rope for fine tuning the draw as I get close to full draw.


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## thespyhunter (Apr 8, 2005)

opa said:


> You can even skip the winch: if you use make clever use of a strap you can half the force needed to pull your bow.
> Advantage is that you don't have 1/2" increments from the winch but can set it at any length, and it's less bulky.
> Without very much effort I can pull 90 lbs (just tried it with a hanging scale): anyway if you can pull your bow at 80 lbs why shouldn't you easily pull half of that on the board?
> To pull or loosen you need to push the "buckle" (if that's the right term); fairly fool proof, cause if you'd loos grip it automatically slams shut.
> ...



Mine is very similar to this one, except I have a two - way boat winch.
A very handy tool indeed if you are tuning freak like me:wink:


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## FallVitals (Nov 7, 2004)

Im gonna make me one of these boards. How much are you all paying for your winches? 

I looked at gander mountian and they were nearly $40.... i looked on harbor frieght and they have this one for $20, looks good? good deal?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=30905

And whats the best thing to use for the bolt of hold the bow at the grip? i kinda got confused in the first portion of this thread (maybe im slow), any help is appreciated


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## AWT (Aug 17, 2005)

If you are going to be checking cam timing/nock travel then you need to be sure you are pulling the bow back at the nocking point/d-loop perfectly straight. If not then the results you get with nock travel and timing will be incorrect. 

I have added an adjustable eye bolt to my crank board so the bow is drawn back straight.


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

ttt

I've been getting PM requests for the parts list on the drawboard. So here we go again. The price has jumped $20 since 2005, it's now $105.


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## Nuwwave (May 20, 2009)

Jerry/NJ said:


> Looks good ! Similar to mine except mine is vertical. Now all you need is to add a yard stick and you can plot a graph etc for each bow. :thumbs_up


How do you plot?


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