# D-loop styles pros and cons



## Ruperto36 (Sep 11, 2013)

I have gone to #3 the torqueless dloop. I had a dloop break and took a fist to the face. Very easy to make and no fear of breakage.


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## ron w (Jan 5, 2013)

I've never had any problem with the typical style, like the top pic, but I can see there might be an advantage to a torque less loop with short bows. shortest bow I ever had is 36-1/4". by today's standards, that's not "short". release ropes were common as heck back in the 70's and 80's.


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## KK4MEI (Nov 14, 2014)

ron w said:


> I've never had any problem with the typical style, like the top pic, but I can see there might be an advantage to a torque less loop with short bows. shortest bow I ever had is 36-1/4". by today's standards, that's not "short". release ropes were common as heck back in the 70's and 80's.


interesting perspective, I guess it would have to depend on the nock you use.


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## KK4MEI (Nov 14, 2014)

D-Loops

1. Slandered- this D-loop is tried and true, I really can't think of any real cons except when you replace it you have to pay attention and replace it in the same spot or your going to be off a little. 

2. String nock between D-loop- This was my setup for a long time until I stopped shooting 3 years ago and will be the D-loop I use again on my next target bow. 
Pros- it allows a little down pressure on the draw to keep your arrow on the rest (lizard blades), also keeps nock position when changing D-loops
Cons- may have to take a half twist off bottom cam to correct tuning. 

3. never used one but on shorter ATA bows you have to be careful that the nock doesn't come off the string. I'm interested in hearing what the pros say about the nock and tuning with the arrow above the center shot or the D-loop below the center shot?


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## ron w (Jan 5, 2013)

usually G-nocks. they didn't exist back in the 70's ad early 80's. i'm talking about when nocks were glued on the end of footed aluminum shafts ! I have a good friend that had an article published in the NFAA magazine about using a loop on your string back in about '72,....when the "string loop" was a new thing ! he didn't invent it, but he wrote an article about "how to use one", when not everybody knew what they were yet !. back then, most everyone used the rope attached to the release, either a tied on nock or a brass nock on the string, with the release rope under the arrow nock. bows were much longer then, and pinching wasn't that much of an issue.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

John Dudley has a write up of loops under article, Knot a Problem. http://www.nockontv.com/article?download=38:knot-a-problem&start=50

I prefer the d-loop with inside top and bottom tied string nocks. One, the top tied nock is the nocking point and replacing the is a piece of cake. The bottom tied nock is spaced to give the arrow up and down movement of .040" to prevent nock pinch. I've had and seen tied nocks spaced easily .100" with no loss of accuracy. 

One thing about d-loops, I prefer them tied to give the least amount of torque for the release I use. I tie mine for my hinge release, which don't have adjustable heads. That my ST360 releases have adjustable heads it doesn't matter which way I tie a d-loop. 

I've shot all the loops used from years back to the present and never has accuracy been effected.

I used a rope release and single brass nock for the nocking point. Ropes still come on some releases for a reason, they work. Train the rope and you're set to go. 

The tied woven d-loop, bottom d-loop in your picture, is for people that have nothing better to do. Might be good, but shoddy to me. 

The Client's Loopy isn't shown, but is a torque less loop under the arrow and used with a tied or brass nock.

Just a d-loop has it's down falls, like setting nock height.

I've used a common d-loop fully under the arrow (knots shoved tightly together) with use of a single brass nock as the nocking point. Remember it well as field14 in here helped me set it at Presley's Outdoors. I then went on to take 3rd in the Illinois Indoor State Championship and followed up with a win at the local 3D club.

Actually, the only thing a d-loop does is give life to the center serving. My retired 3D bow, vast number of places and wins in 3D, Indoor, Outdoor and Field, is set up to shoot off the string. It has a single brass nock for the nock point and a cushion button to ease nock pinch. Practicing hard, I replaced the center serving almost every 7 to 10 days. Re-enforced with dental floss at the release the center serving would last longer. Never bothered me one bit to reserve the center serving and set the nocking point. My hunting bow is set up the same way. 

First 2 pic, my ST360 and my Stan hinge showing torque before changing the d-loop around. 3rd pic, from John's article; left to right; Tied nock for use of rope release. Client's Loopy, neat not shoddy like the tied d-loops and was a manufactured d-loop. The last two speak for themselves. Really don't care for the bottom tied nock, but it works....


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

I like a standard d-loop with a lower nock set only, to me they are a very solid choice. I have been using smaller bcy cord either the 1.8mm which I believe is called d-braid or the new spectra 23. They tie smaller knots than the standard bcy 24 which I prefer and the overall size of the entire d-loop from top to bottom is way smaller than using a bigger material. I also use a very small serving material to make my lower nock set very small compared to using something like the 3d end loop serving material which makes a really big nock set.

The other thing that I have been doing for a few months that I think has some good positive traits is using a slightly longer d-loop rather than the shortest possible. I used very short d-loops for a long time and to me they are very picky about the grip of your hinge and angle you are holding the hand against your face for left and right issues because of the torque on the string. Since I started using a slightly longer d-loop it seems like I can vary hinges and the angle that I am holding my hand against my face and not have any left and right issues.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

I believe Padgett has the right view of using a slightly longer d-loop. I think minimum should be 5/8". I also believe the shorter the d-loop the more pressure on the tied nocks and center serving, sort of crushing things together.


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## Mahly (Dec 18, 2002)

I use a plain D-loop like the first pic in the OP, unless I need a little downforce on the rest. Then I will go with the 2nd pic, small tied nock below arrow only.

Length will be determined by the bow. The shorter ATA, the Shorter I tie my loop (and longer I set the DL of the bow to)


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