# Need Help correcting my shot



## chiefjason (Mar 22, 2016)

Search here and on the net for "Target Panic" as a start. Or punching the trigger. 

Also, is you draw length correct? Form? Grip? Are you grabbing the grip or letting the bow rest in your hand? Grabbing can torque the bow and could cause this. Your grip should ideally not put any pressure on the grip from the time you start your draw until after you release. It's just there to hold the bow until the back force of the draw takes over. Are you snapping your hand closed on the draw? Another grip problem that will cause left-right issues. 

What kind of release? We had to replace some releases here that were binding and pulling the string off the face forcing shots left.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Some people call that target panic, but it's just anticipation. You are not following through with the shot. It afflicts most archers eventually.

The cure starts on the blank bale. Just get up close to the target so that you can mentally watch your shot. Focus on holding your bow up for 2 or 3 seconds after each shot. The bow will move to the left a little (if you are right handed), but just hold it still as best you can. On the back end of the shot, you want to follow through the same on each shot.

After a couple of weeks, put up a paper plate. You are still close, maybe 5 yards, but the goal is to aim at the plate. Any arrow that hits the plate is an X. This is probably very easy at 5 yards, but that's what we want. 

You now have a bad habit of anticipating the release, you want to replace it with the good habit of of following through on every shot. It's much easier to build a new good habit than to try to break a bad habit.

After you are doing well at 5 yards, move to 7 yards. If you continue doing well, keep moving back. However, If you have one bad arrow, even a little bit, at any distance, quit shooting for the day. The next practice session, go back to the bale for at least 100 arrows to work on whatever part of your shot that produced the bad arrow. Don't worry about correcting the bad shot, focus on shooting a good shot. 

Then start again at 5 yards with the paper plate. Keep doing this until you can shoot 100% good arrows at a paper plate any distance. Then start reducing the size of the paper plate. Keep doing this until you are satisfied with your shot at whatever distance you choose.

Lots of discipline and kind of boring, but this will correct your anticipation problem. 

Hope this helps
Allen


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## redwhiteblue (Feb 8, 2016)

Try a release with a hair trigger, that might help because you barely have to touch it to release your arrow. 

Also, if you're shooting a touch right, often times that means you're gripping your bow hand. If your fingers are gripping, as soon as the string is released your grip will swing the bow a touch to the right (if you shoot right handed).


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## Moebow (Jul 8, 2010)

Since this is the "Coach's Corner" I'll take a shot here. What others have said about the bow hand grip is good, but the OP specifically mentioned:

"I've noticed when I go to pull my release trigger I jerk my bow to the right a little."

IF you have been taught correctly, (or if you can find a coach to teach you correctly) you do NOT "PULL" the release trigger with finger movment! Set your release up to have about a 4# (yes, four pound) activation weight, shorten the release so when at full draw, you can simply bend your index finger so the trigger rests in the SECOND joint from the tip. Now freeze your finger. You can feel the trigger in that second joint but the finger doesn't move by itself again.

The release is activated by moving the drawing shoulder back (perpendicular to the arrow line). This movement will in turn move the arm, wrist, hand back a LITTLE which activates the release. This is shooting with back tension. Refer to "Core Archery" by Larry Wise for a better detail and explanation IF you can't find a coach to help with this.

A hair trigger setting is one of the BIGGEST errors many shooters make.

Arne


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## catcherarcher (Sep 23, 2014)

Exactly what moebow and aread said.


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## subconsciously (Aug 22, 2009)

redwhiteblue said:


> Try a release with a hair trigger, that might help because you barely have to touch it to release your arrow.
> 
> Also, if you're shooting a touch right, often times that means you're gripping your bow hand. If your fingers are gripping, as soon as the string is released your grip will swing the bow a touch to the right (if you shoot right handed).


This is why this is "Coaches Corner". Not "rookie" corner.


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## AlanCoderre (Mar 18, 2014)

Get really close and blind bail shoot. Shoot with your eyes closed if you want or even remove your sight. When you are doing this really focus on your form and making that release fire smoothly. Do this for a couple of days about 40 shots a day. This will show you how the bow should fire. Then go back to shooting normally. You will be surprised how much better the bow feels shooting when you are letting it do the work. Hope this helps


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## DBowers01 (Mar 13, 2016)

Blank bale at close range. My 10yo boy is battling this right now. He's progressed to shooting large targets at 8yds. Last Sunday I made it fun by shooting the "First Annual 8yd Indoor Garage Nationals". We shot a 300rd on a standard 40cm face and he did really well. 

I agree with everything said.........other than the hair trigger. That is NOT the way to solve this.


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## mike 66 (Jan 21, 2010)

subconsciously said:


> This is why this is "Coaches Corner". Not "rookie" corner.


:flame: here is a prime example. the guy thinks hes helping, but is not correct and if the shooter follows his advice his shooting will suffer.and might even lead to T.P and make the shooter suffer even more........sorry red / w/ b........its not the ROOKIE corner ..lol


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## mike 66 (Jan 21, 2010)

post # 5 IS 100% SPOT ON follow the advice from moe bow .....get the release aid in the correct spot.......


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

There is so much for you to learn and sooner or later you have to read everything and allow it to rattle around in your head for a while and then you have to tackle each and every area and get them under control so that you can move on. right now you are stuck in the "I want to hold the pin perfect and then squeeze off the trigger". That kind of shooting is done by thousands of people and it simply leads nowhere and you have to make the decision to let go and move on. 

Just to give you a hint of the direction you need to move into, you need to learn to run a firing engine. The firing engine has a job to do and it is to create movement that fires the release within a period of time. That time is your shot window and in the beginning you do not care when the release fires within the shot window but you are going to run the firing engine and it is going to fire sooner or later. Secondly your sight pin is going to float around on the spot that you want to hit during the shot window, sometimes it will be perfectly still and sometimes it will move around left and right up and down but it has nothing to do with your release firing. 

Right now you are trying to tie them together and that is where all of your problems originate from because flinching and jerking and other issues start to get their strangle hold on your shooting.


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