# Need Tuning help, cannot stop fletching contact.



## tim494 (Apr 13, 2008)

I posted this on the main forum, but thought I should ask it here.



I need advice on tuning, flecthing is brushing my rest

My bow came set-up with a hostage rest. I started seeing green markings on the hostage rest from where my bottom left vane was rubbing. I was new to archery, so I attributed alot of things to myself learning proper form. And I was getting decent groupings so I let it go.

I had to take about a year off from Bowhunting, but decided to get back into this year and decided to get rid of that rub. I went to a local archery store and they suggested upgrading to a TT Revolution and I agreed, since I liked the containment properties.

I got the same vane marks on the Revolution (bottom left). I went back to the shop and he (different tech from the one who set it up) adjusted it up/down/in/out. It changed where the mark occurred, but the rub was still there. He tightened up the string to insure it the rest was dropping early in the cycle. The rub was still there.

Two different rest, same problem so there must be something wrong with the bow. He checked timing, squareness to the string, center shot, we even tried a different arrow with better vanes (some of mine are bent a little). He watched me shoot, suggested I might be torquing the bow just a bit after release. He said my arrows flew true, but after an hour was really out of ideas.

This is my only local option and he seems knowledgeable to me. I could drive 1 1/2 hrs to another city (Louisville, KY), but I would still relying on pot-luck to get a bow person who knows more than my local guy.

So what next? I can sight and group with this contact ( I even robin-hooded on my fifth shot at the range this year), heck the Whisker Biscuit has all kinds of vane contact, so to I just quit being picky?

Any suggestions?

Set-up

2008 Bowtech Tomkat
29" draw length
set for 55#

Beeman ICS Bowhunter 400 (8.4gpi)
28.25" (knock groove to insert)
100grain field point
Blazer Vanes

I have order some feathers and duravanes to try, but it bothers me that something may be wrong with the bow and I will just be alleviating the symptoms. I was going to go through bare shaft tuning, but what is the point if I have fletching contact.


----------



## tim494 (Apr 13, 2008)

*more info*

OK I had my son take some videos last night, but of course it's not a high speed camera so I couldn't actually see what was happening with the arrow.

BUT

I did notice that at full draw the arrow does not appear to be parallel to the Cable Rod. It looks to be nock up slightly.

So if it is parallel at rest, but nock up at full draw, does this mean the nock point is too high and I am driving the down at release causing the vanes to strike?

If so, how do I lower the nock point? I don't think I can raise the rest enough to fix it that way.


----------



## MonsterMan17 (Dec 19, 2010)

Post pics at full draw and at rest.


----------



## tim494 (Apr 13, 2008)

*pics*

Everything at rest









Rest in capture position with bow still at rest









Full Draw


----------



## frh290 (Sep 13, 2011)

I am no expert and in fact i am just getting back into it my self. After reading everything you have tried it occured to me that you had not mentioned adjusting your knock so that your cock vane is pointing straight to the right. That, in my mind, would give you the most vane clearance through the rest and riser. I've been checking for vane clearance on my rest by applying lipstick to the edge of my vanes and shooting them and checking for red streaks. I think i got mine figured out but good luck with yours.


----------



## highpoundage (Nov 20, 2010)

Change arrow rests. All hostage / capture arrow rests are begging for bad arrow flight and fletch contact.


----------



## BOW GUY (Feb 13, 2003)

I think its your timing. I had the same problem with 2 single cam bows with string actvated rests and I made small ajustments adding or removing twists to the cable. its trial and error on which way to twist the cable but I solved the problem..By the way, these were not my bows.. and You will need a bow press or you have a buddy with one. hope this helps!


----------



## JacobOutdoors (Oct 4, 2011)

I don't know much and I actually found this thread looking for an answer similar to my own problem. I also use the TT Revolution rest and recently started experiencing problems with fletching contact and bad shots/grouping. We tried putting a little grease on the fletching and found I was getting contact when shooting, but when letting the shop guy shoot he was having no problems. At first we attributed the problem to slack in the rest cable so we fixed that but we were still getting contact. 

We then moved on the critiquing my form for any little variations. What he noticed (or we assumed at the end anyway) was that I may have been letting in a little before the shot after hitting the wall. I would come to full draw hitting the wall but as I was waiting at full draw I would move in ever so slightly causing the rest to "relax" just a little but enough to disengage it to cause contact upon release. Have someone watch you for any torque you might be putting on the bow and to make sure that your hitting that back wall and staying there at full draw. 

Just my .02, and also know that you aren't alone in this problem.


----------



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

highpoundage said:


> Change arrow rests. All hostage / capture arrow rests are begging for bad arrow flight and fletch contact.


So much B.S.
.
.




BOW GUY said:


> I think its your timing. I had the same problem with 2 single cam bows with string actvated rests and I made small ajustments adding or removing twists to the cable. its trial and error on which way to twist the cable but I solved the problem..By the way, these were not my bows.. and You will need a bow press or you have a buddy with one. hope this helps!


I have to agree that timing is probably the problem.


----------



## tim494 (Apr 13, 2008)

Thanks everyone for the responses.

I am going to go through the whole setup again.

I don't have access to a bow press, so to do twists I have to go to the pro shop. I am confused what twists would do though. As I go through the different tuning information, I've never seen twists related to this problem. The only things I can guess at is if twisting works, then it was likely a slight spine issue to begin with?


----------



## SNAKE EYES (Jan 28, 2011)

try a different spined arrow.just a idea.i shoot that rest out of a hoyt crx32 and love it.


----------



## BOW GUY (Feb 13, 2003)

I do not believe it has anything to do with your arrow spin! Your rest is falling to soon...
If you look at your 2nd picture the rest rope is pulling slightly on the cable and making the cam slightly out of position (or out of time).. Being that you do not have a bow press try ajusting the rest rope so it sets the rest without pulling to much on the cable. if that does not your cam is slightly out of time. when I say twists in the cable I talking 1/2 to 1 twist in the cable contrloing the bottom cam.


----------



## TozerBGood (Aug 16, 2003)

Here's a link where I documented setting up a revolution rest for a friend, and some of the issues I had with it. Hope it helps brother.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1522056


----------



## straddleridge (Apr 28, 2010)

try tying the rest rope down further on the down cable - at least to the bottom of the grip


----------



## MonsterMan17 (Dec 19, 2010)

I also believe it's a timing/cable torque issue. Timing could simply be off, or could be off from too much tension on the rest rope. Appears nock high at full draw and good at rest. The nock travel during the shot cycle would give you some really funky tuning results. Good luck. Btw twisting cables advances one cam or the other. That's how timing would be fixed.


----------



## tim494 (Apr 13, 2008)

Thanks for the help. I think I am on my way to getting this fixed. I reinstalled the rest per instructions and pushed it all the way forward without it hitting the shelf. I then looked at the biggest variable (my form). I think I was anchoring a bit too high so I lowered my anchor point to drop my elbow and get a better "T" form.

Last night I shot some and I wasn't seeing marks from the marker I was using on the rest. Tonight I'll try the foot powder to see for sure and start bare shaft tuning.

Thanks Guys


----------



## MonsterMan17 (Dec 19, 2010)

Good to hear your getting it figured out.


----------



## kilerhamilton (Jul 19, 2010)

Its nothing that you doing as a shooter. your rest isnt timed fast enough to get out of the way. try cocking the veins in different directions


----------



## outback2hunt (Feb 2, 2005)

I had a similar issue with my Cardiac using a Code Red dropaway. I was getting very slight contact with the rest even though nock was set at 1/8" and the rest dropped about an inch from full draw. Getting broadheads to fly well is pretty much impossible with any rest contact. After reading through the "nuts and bolts of archery" sticky it sounded like my lower limb was working harder than my upper limb causing un-level nock travel. I took 1/4 turn off of the lower limb bolt and added 1/4 turn to the upper limb bolt. You will have to make sure your peep height and drop away cord are still the same. No more contact, bare shafts paper tune perfectly, and broadheads fly well and group with field points. I spent a lot of time driving myself crazy trying to broadhead tune until I fixed the level nock travel issue. Although even tiller is generally recommended, the upper and lower limbs may not be exactly the same and some slight tiller adjustments can really improve how the bow tunes and shoots. Something to consider, hope it helps.


----------



## nag (Jun 13, 2007)

You mentioned the bow tech you go to "tightned up the string".

Wrong! The rest needs to lift as late as possible, so that it can fall sooner and get out of the way.
The arrow cradle should lift within the last 1/2" before you come to full draw.

Make sure the arrow is level.
Nock your arrow on the string. Manually lift the cradle then look to see if the arrow shaft lays along the Berger Hole. That's the rests mounting hole. The shaft should be centered in that hole, or slightly above.

This is a basic setup....then tune from here.


----------



## threetoe (May 13, 2011)

You can connect the rest string to the cable yourself using a "Football". It's a device that looks like a football and clamps around the string from the rest and around the cable using an allen screw to pinch them together.


----------



## strothershooter (Feb 9, 2011)

from the looks here your nocking point is to high try getting ur bow tuned by someone at a archery shop


----------



## threetoe (May 13, 2011)

strothershooter said:


> from the looks here your nocking point is to high try getting ur bow tuned by someone at a archery shop


Yea..seems a bit high to me but would that cause fletching contact?

Try getting a spray can of foot powder (7 bucks)
Spray the fletches completely. Let it dry and shoot them.
If you have contact, you'll see it.

Bill


----------



## carlielos (May 12, 2007)

Square up that arrow 1st, then shot some and look to see if your still getting contact, if so then as other posters said release that rest roap, if it rises too soon it will cause cable tweek and that wil make your bow eratic and hard to shoot. Have someone watch you draw and look at the cams @ full draw, check for lean, if they lean then have them adjusted by twisting yokes. retune and check for contact again. Left to right windage will change if there was cable lean adjusted out, good luck and have fun!

Carl


----------

