# help setting up the -- W&W Sebastian Flute Forged Plus



## zSar

First, I wanted to let people know that LANCASTER ARCHERY SUPPLY is very fast with their shipping. I placed my order yesterday and I got it today!! Its FREE shipping too!! two thumbs up for LAS!! :shade:


These are the pieces that I ordered:

W&W Sebastian Flute Forged Plus 25" Recurve Riser
Riser Color: Matt Grey
Hand: Right Hand
Item#: 47701260105	

W&W Sebastian Flute Premium Carbon Recurve Limbs
Limb Length: Medium (68")
Draw Weight: 30 lbs.
Item# : 47701060602	

Stone Mountain B-50 Recurve Bowstring
String Length: 68" AMO
Strand Count: 16
Color: Black


About the 16 strand string.. I had a word with Tony (Viper1), and he said that the 16 strands is too thick for my BEMAN Carbon 500 spine arrows. He said I should go for only 14 strands and is absolutely correct. I just tested and find out that the nock is a bit tad tight but I can slip it in. I am not sure this is safe to use.

Now this SF+ FORGE does't come with a manual. I think the manufacturer assumes that people who buys this riser are experienced archers. Apparently, I am a noob. :sad:

I need help to set this up... one of the main concern is the string. 
The SF+ Forged riser came with the following:
- Magentic rest
- Plunger
- 70" - 14 strand string


When I called LAS to place the order, I was recommended to purchase the 68" AMO string.. (It was my mistake to get the 16 strands.)
So should I go with the 70" string or the 68" AMO string? I am confused. Anyone could help I would greatly appreciate it. 

See pictures below..

Thanks in advanced.
-Csar


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## Viper1

Csar - 

You have a 68" bow, so you need an AMO 68" string. (It will be about 65" in actually length.)
String it up and see what the brace height looks like. Optimal for those bows is about 8.5", but you can go up to 9". Twist in the direction that tightens the center serving. 
If the string has twists, just go in the same direction.









CLEAN the riser with alcohol in the area you plan on putting the rest. 
With the bow strung, screw in the plunger (rear hole, the one closest to you), and nock an arrow in the approximate position (doesn't have to be exact) on the string.
Hold the rest in position so the arrow is centered on the plunger button and angled slightly up, as in the diagram. 
Mark that position (I use a piece of masking tape). 
Remove the paper backing from the rest and affix it to the riser in the same position. 

The odds are adding a real nocking point is the only other thing you'll need to do.
I usually check all the screws/bolts to make sure they are tight.

The limb will most likely be a tight fit for a while - deal with it... 

Tiller check:
Once you have the correct brace height, measure the distance from the upper and lower limbs where they exits the riser to the string as you would measure brace height.
The distances should be equal or up to 1/4" SHORTER or the lower limb. 

Limb alignment check:
Eyeball the string so it bisects the upper and lower limbs.
It should also bisect the the two limb bolt screw holes on the face of the riser.

Both the tiller and alignment should be fine from the factory. 

If either doesn't, holler back and we can go over the procedures.

Csar, I though you had my book, it all in there, ya know...

*edit - 

I just noticed something - you have a 16 STRAND 68" DACRON String and a 70" 14 strand D97 string!!! 
HUH????? 
Call LAS, tell them you screwed and and get two AMO 68" 14 strand D97 strings. *

Viper1 out.


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## wseward

Congrats on the new bow. Very nice riser and limbs. If you register at the site below you MAY be able to download a User's Manual or other info.:
http://www.sf-archery.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=94&Itemid=232&lang=en

Info. on first bow:
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1588147

Some good form and exercise video:
http://www.archerygb.org/support/operations/coaches/coaching_videos.php

Also some tuning info. to use when you can shoot a group
(a copy from a site that may be down):
http://veraxservice.net/arch/tuning.htm

http://tradtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23783
http://www.texasarchery.org/BoardMembers/RickStonebrakerPages/TuningForTens/TuningForTens.html

Good Luck!


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## zSar

Thank you so much Tony, yes I have the book but I am slowly reading it or I should say slow reader. =D
But when I got this new toy.. I got so excited and just sat there clueless staring on the whole kit because the riser have no manuals. LOL
Then this forum came to my mind.. it was the 70" string that stunt me. LOL

wseward, thank you also for the link. :star:


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## Viper1

Csar - 

See above.

LAS shouldn't have sent you a 16 strand Dacron string for that bow, or a 70" string for that matter.
Definitely call them, they will make it right, if there any problem ask for John Wert - great guy. 

(Neither string will "hurt" the bow, but you won't like the Dacron and the 70" will give you a stupid low brace height.)

Viper1 out.


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## zSar

I finally got a good response from LAS and they will replace my strings to D97 - 68". =)











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## wseward

Looks great all rigged up. I bet it shoots well!


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## Easykeeper

Nice looking bow!


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## JINKSTER

Congrats...that's a very nice rig you got there and is the same riser I almost ordered last weekend until I tripped over a riser deal in the classifieds I couldn't refuse...But I was going to order the 25" SF Forged+ just like you have there but in black with SF Elite Carbon Limbs..so yes...you have a very sweet rig there...I didn't click on the links wseward provided above but I suspect they are as follows...SF has their customer base reference "Online Manuals"...I believe rumor has it that it's part of their "going green" thing efforts and not wasting paper...who knows...who cares...as long as you have access to proper owners manual intel.

That said?...I just got back from the proshop where we weighed and chrono'ed my 27# Rig...and to me?...for that weight?...was shockingly fast...but...I'm using a 9 strand rhino string custom built by Rick Barbee and shooting .800 spine 15/25 carbon impact super club arrows that weight 240grs and it smokes my 37# Hunting/3D bows for "flat shooting"...reason I say this is not to brag here in your thread but to tell you that your rig there?...is worthy of far better than a generic stone mountain string and unless you're drawing like 32"s on that 30#er?...I think you are going to find .500 spine bemans both too stiff to tune and/or too heavy to get anything better than very near sluggish performance.

And FWIW?....The Super Club arrows are $69.99 a dozen pre-fletched with nocks, points and all...a great custom string is about $30...and together?...It's the $100 "on-the-cheap" combo-punch upgrade that could make a night and day difference in how that new rig of yours shoots...as in slow, sluggish and all over the place or?...extremely crisp, well-tuned, quick and accurate and trust me on this...a string can make or break a bow...a fantastic correctly matched string can make even a crappy bow decent shooting...but a crappy poor matched string?...can make the most expensive rig feel like a pile of pooh.

Congrats and L8R, Bill. :cool2:


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## grantmac

Totally agree with Jinks except that the SC15/25 are more around 940 spine IIRC. The 20/30 at 810 spine and what I would recommend for this set-up. Their nocks require a string made for small groove G-nocks though so probably the 14st D97 will work provided they don't use thick serving.

-Grant


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## zSar

Thanks guys. =). This shoots great and smooth. I have installed the limb dampeners and helps cut down the vibration. 

I am currently using the 16 strand Dacron (68"). I have to send back the other 2 for an exchange. 

The .500 seems to be stiff but i can live with for now since i am only shooting 15 yards instinctive. I still have to learn to use with the sight. I have to go to the local proshop to tune the sight. I am afraid to break the arrows. =D

Also i wanted to ask about anchor points. Does it have to be on the lower jaw? I am so used to archor it on the corner of my mouth with my thumb.


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## zSar




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## Xero

My local shop is telling me brace height can be approximated by having the string sit about 1/2" free of the string groove in the limb. This seems to work for me. I have the SF Forged 25", Axiom+ long limbs in 30#, and just today SF Premium "Confiance" long in 40#. Dacron B50 string, 4" shorter than AMO . . . 70" AMO, 66" string 14 strand.


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## grantmac

Generally with a sight you want to be anchoring under the jaw, but some people get beginners to anchor with their thumb hooking the back of the jaw and finger on a bottom tooth.

Anchoring with the thumb isn't generally a good idea and really sounds like you weren't getting a full draw, unless I'm misunderstanding you.

I shoot both with and without a sight. I don't try to use the same anchor for both.

-Grant


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## zSar

Hi Bill (jinxster), where can I buy those custom string and the arrows you mentioned? Do LAS carry those?


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## Xero

All that stuff hanging off that bow . . . Can you get WiFi on it? *LMAO* 

I'm jerking your chain here. Every time I'm in the shop, I have a look at the stabilizers. I think maybe the best feature I added to my bows is a wrist sling. With the sling, I can seat the grip in the thumb web and not not need to grip w/ the fingers. No more torquing.

30# limbs Axiom+ (long) on this rig I'm shooting Beman 750/14 spine 77gr. piles, 29.5" arrows. 40# SF Premier (not carbon), I'm shooting 500 spine Easton Gamegetter, 125gr. piles, 30".


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## zSar

I am playing by adding weights to the bow but that seems doesn't do any advantage at all. Probably because shooting at 15 yards you dont get enough feedbacks. LOL

I am going to set this aside until I get the correct string size and proper spine arrows, otherwise I am just going to get frustrated. =)




Xero said:


> All that stuff hanging off that bow . . . Can you get WiFi on it? *LMAO*
> 
> I'm jerking your chain here. Every time I'm in the shop, I have a look at the stabilizers. I think maybe the best feature I added to my bows is a wrist sling. With the sling, I can seat the grip in the thumb web and not not need to grip w/ the fingers. No more torquing.
> 
> 30# limbs Axiom+ (long) on this rig I'm shooting Beman 750/14 spine 77gr. piles, 29.5" arrows. 40# SF Premier (not carbon), I'm shooting 500 spine Easton Gamegetter, 125gr. piles, 30".


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## rembrandt

You gonna love that bow......I have the Sebastion Flute riser (25") with long 28lb Kaya limbs and love the bow.....


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## Xero

rembrandt said:


> You gonna love that bow......I have the Sebastion Flute riser (25") with long 28lb Kaya limbs and love the bow.....


What he said! 

I was all over the place with this bow until I corrected the brace height. I was about an inch or more high. Arrow selection is crucial! Beeman / Easton has a "shaft selector" -- 

Shaft Selector - | Easton Archery
www.eastonarchery.com/store/shaft_selector/‎

It wants you to select a "cam" -- one of which is a recurve bow. It won't let you move on until you "select a cam." Also, be sure you specify "target" at the top of the page so that you get into the target weight draw and arrow piles (tips). My shop says this chart is a bit "stiff." -- But it seems to be working fairly well for me. 

Three springs included with the plunger rest. The shop set up the spring for me. I have no clue, but can see that the two remaining springs in the package are different weights. I have appliance box corrugated cardboard faces on my target (straw) bales. Start with a clean sheet of cardboard and check to see where the arrows are grouping. 

Left group is stiff on the arrow spine. Right group is soft on the arrow spine. Tweak the plunger, both the spring tension and plunger position accordingly -- Viper1, above, discusses this adjustment. The plunger adjust is very sweet, effective. I was amazed how it moves grouping. Set screws in the adjust knobs read like the index on a dial. Pay attention to which direction and how much you're moving the knobs. Approx. at 20 yds a full turn of the screws moves the group maybe a foot -- more or less. I'm guessing it's going to vary by draw weight and arrow spine stiffness. 

Bow square is the best money on tuning I've spent. It's an essential aid for tuning! 

My first bow was poorly tuned, and the string stretched after some couple hundred arrows. Joel at the shop tuned it up for me, and the tuning adjustment was night/day in the performance. 

Don't be too overwhelmed! There are lots of fine points to archery, and it all needs to work together. Consistent form/technique develops, and you'll eventually come to appreciate fine tuning. 

First days in the Archery Barn I bought 3 straw bales, shot high and wide out into the woods for a few days. Went out day-one and bought a FOURTH straw bale so I might at least not shoot over the top. I started w/ a 40# bow at 20 yards. Probably should have started w/ a 25# bow at 10 yards . . . 

I asked Joel at the shop about the difference between the $250 SF Forged and a $600 Hoyt riser. "Well, about $350, and the Hoyt is US mfg. while the SF is imported. Actually, the Hoyt is probably imported too . . . with a US mfg. logo . . . " 

Nice gear!


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## Endopotential

Just to join the fan club of this riser.

Anyone considering buying an SF Forged Plus riser - don't have any hesitation, it's a terrific product. The machining and finish as excellent. This riser gets envious club at my range, even from guys with risers at three times the price.

I got mine in the matte grey color. And yes, it does come in a separate "dark matte grey" color that is a beautiful dark grey charcoal - except it now seems to be on permanent backorder.

Got mine set up with some Tradtech Black Maxx limbs, pretty good for the price. Mine were rated at 35lb for a 17" riser, which translates to 28lb on the SF's 25" size.


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## Endopotential

Another member asked me to post some more pics, for a better idea on color.

So my original is the matte grey color. Brushed finish, almost like very fine grit sandpaper.

Also managed to get my hands on a second one cheap (thanks AT classifieds!). The blue is a polished anodized finish, also very pretty.

















Can't go wrong with the quality of this riser, esp for the price.


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## Jman_79

For the clicker does it take the 6-32A


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## Dave MP

I'm planning on ordering the SF Forged+ 23" riser. Does anyone have opinions on this shorter riser? They look like a great riser.
DaveMP


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## Corene1

Looks like you have gotten some great advice. I have 2 of those risers one has 36 pound Winex limbs the other 30 pound SF premium plus carbon . The 14 strand D97 string is hands down the best string I have shot on the lighter limbs, with best consistency coming at 8 5/8 brace height. It shoots well with ACC 3L-04's indoors (.750 spine) and Easton carbon ones ( 720 spine ) outdoors served with .018 62xs and small groove g nocks. Congratulations , you will have tons of fun with it.


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## Dave MP

Where does one get the Super Club arrows for $69.00 as mentioned by Jinkster in his post?
Dave


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## Arron

Dave MP said:


> Where does one get the Super Club arrows for $69.00 as mentioned by Jinkster in his post?
> Dave


Lancaster has them. they will come fletched and nocks put in. The points will be loose.
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/carbon-impact-super-club-arrow.html


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## GBUSA

Here's the CI chart for y'all 

Carbon Impact Arrow Configurations

Superclubs come with brass points and carbon impact press in nocks these only come small grove
Ultrafasts come with Stainless break off points, Pin's and Pin nocks. You can get small and large groove.

Ultrafast Green have a tolerance of +/- .003"
Ultrafast Orange have a tolerance of +/- .004"
Ultrafast Yellow have a tolerance of +/- .006"
Ultrafast Yellow can be purchased prefletched.

Sizes and uncut length

Super Club 5/15 (1500 spine) - 27 3/4"
Super Club 10/20 (1200 spine) - 28 3/4"
Super Club 15/25 (950 spine) - 30 1/4"
Super Club 20/30 (820 spine) - 30 3/4"
Super Club 30/40 (620 spine) - 31 3/4"
Super Club 40/50 (500 spine)- 32 3/4"

Ultra Fast 1500 - 27 3/4"
Ultra Fast 1200 - 28 3/4"
Ultra Fast 950 - 30 1/4"
Ultra Fast 820 30 3/4"
Ultra Fast 710 31 1/4"
Ultra Fast 620 31 3/4"
Ultra Fast 550 32 1/4"
Ultra Fast 500 32 3/4"
Ultra Fast 450 33 1/4"
Ultra Fast 400 33 1/4"


Prices - MSRP per doz

Superclub shafts = 72.73
Superclub arrows = 78.33
Ultrafast Shafts Yellow label = 86.74
Ultrafast Shafts Orange label = 95.48
Ultrafast Shafts Green label = 110.32
Ultrafast Arrows Yellow label = 97.94


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## Zurf

Same riser, different limbs but at the same length. I love it. I hope you do too.


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## bwelcher

Like others in this thread I just bought a SF Forge Plus and am a first time builder. I put the limbs in as I have read and in the unstrung condition the limbs are loose under the tiller bolt, yet when strung are tight and all looks good. I assume this is correct. Please confirm.

Thanks in advance - Blake


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## larry tom

Blake, that is correct and typical of all ILF recurve bows. Regards, LT


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## bwelcher

Larry - Thanks did not what to do something and screw it up!


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## rembrandt

Good advice on here for sure.....you have the same riser and limbs I have but in a different color.....mine is red with the white and red limbs at 30lbs.....I love the bow and it is close to being the only bow I will probably ever need.....check your plunger ever now and then to make sure the screws are tight.....also, keep a spare rest around if and when that one mal-functions........


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## MichaelBrock

Dragging this out of the cellar just to thank everyone for a great thread! I am only 4 weeks into my "olympic archery" adventure but have decided to put together a bow for myself and the SF Forged looks like the right balance between "buy once" and "good value". I'm patiently watching the classified here for one to show up (can't post a "wanted" thread yet). Bookmarked for later.


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