# fine tuning draw length help



## Ta2guru13 (Dec 16, 2011)

I'm pretty close to my exact draw length but need help fine tuning. I'm pretty sure I could stand to draw a bit more but not the next module position. What is the best way to go about lengthening my draw length just a bit and leave my shooting string the way it is? I'm shooting a 2005 Hoyt UltraMag. The reason I'm looking to fine tune my draw length is because my pin doesn't just float, it's jerky. I'm shooting at 20 yards at a 5 spot and I keep mostly keep my pin in the white but I drives me nuts that I can't slow down my pin. Sometimes I hold steady for a solid second and other times it's in and out. Any advice or help would be great. I might just post this in the coaches corner too? Thanks guys


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## Ta2guru13 (Dec 16, 2011)

Sorry about the last line, I posted this in bow tuning as well


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## mike 66 (Jan 21, 2010)

without seeing .... i would say turn down the poundage 2-3 lbs and see what happens...


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## Ta2guru13 (Dec 16, 2011)

I can try that


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Here are a few techniques that have been posted over the years:

From George Ryals (GRIV) - watch the float of your pin while aiming. Make very small adjustments until you find optimum. You won't ever stop your pin, but you should be able to reduce it significantly. Of course overall form makes a difference with this technique (and all of the others too)

From Tom Dorigati (field14) - draw, aim, close your eyes and execute the shot - if your arrows are not centered on the target either change your stance or change your DL. If your DL and stance are perfect, you should be able to shoot a 25 on the NFAA 5 spot with your eyes closed. From personal experience, this actually works.

From Larry Wise - shoot the longest distance that you can hold reasonable groups. Micro adjust DL to center the groups on the X

From Nuts & Bolts - hang a string on your target. Shoot a fletched arrow at the string from close range (5 feet). Adjust your sights until you are splitting the string. Then step back a couple of feet, and shoot a bare shaft at the string. If the bare shaft hits the string, you are good. If not adjust your DL. The complication with this one is that tuning can affect your results, so you should go through his bare shaft tuning proceedures before you try this. This thread will give you more on this: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2128129

From Mike Cooper (JAVI) Adjust your DL so that the nock of your arrow at full draw is directly below your aiming eye. He also recommends that your DL be adjusted so that the string angle at full draw is about 44 to 45 degrees from the vertical. This part can be a problem since most (all?) of us don't have bows with adjustable ATA. And obviously, this won't work with short ATA bows.

The great tournement archer from a few years back, Terry Ragsdale is quoted as saying that he spent more time on getting the DL of a bow right than he did on all other tuning combined. I don't know what process he used, but it seemed to work for him.

There are two adjustments that you need to get right. One is the bow's draw length and the other is the D-loop length. More on this in this thread: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2156139

There is more to it than just getting your bow adjusted to XX". Peep height, holding weight, stabilization, and a few other things play a part in optimal bow set up. And of course the most difficult things to get adjusted right is your form and your head. Absolutely perfect bow setup won't help you much if you aren't doing it right. But it is a good start.

Hope this helps,
Allen


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## Ta2guru13 (Dec 16, 2011)

That's a lot of good information!! I have done all of Nuts&Bolts bare shaft tuning or kitchen sink tuning and already bare shaft corrected everything. Splitting the string with fletched and unfletched. Don't get me wrong, I usually only shoot target in the winter time and only started last year and am putting up what I think are pretty good scores. Last night I shot a 297 with 41x and the time before is shot a 300 with 40x. I'm really just looking to pound x's!! But, I will do a rundown of some of the things you listed and see what helps fine tune my float. Thanks guys.


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