# Talking weights



## antlers21 (Jan 1, 2005)

I am kinda baffled at adding weight to either front or back to minimize float. I am going with a nitrum 34 with a 24" w/ 2oz out front and 12" w/ 6 oz on the rear. So far this seems the best but I am still getting more side to side float than I like. Maybe I just need to keep putting in more time and it will improve. Any tips or advice is so appreciated. Not sure if I should be trying more weights to see if that helps????


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## RCR_III (Mar 19, 2011)

First and foremost, perfect draw length is imparative. Perfect. Down to the 1/16. 

Outside of that, here's an article I wrote on stabilizer set up. https://rcrchery.wordpress.com/2014/07/06/balancing-act/

And here's a video I did on float patterns and affects of different situtations. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjQGT4NDIDc


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## eclark53520 (Sep 11, 2012)

Make sure your form is perfect before you start going after weight.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Here's a start. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=453862

And more from Griv

Here's a short cut to set up by Griv;
Formula is as follows is still just a in the Ball Park…..Okay, people are different and bows are different. 

"length of front bar times weight on front bar = "X"

Then:
"X" divided by length of back bar = weight on back bar.

example:
27" Front bar length times weight of 4 ounces = 108
108 / 12" rear bar length = 9 ounces for the rear bar.

You then take the 9 ounces, put it on the rear bar. If you do a true V bar, you split the weights between the two bars. If you do a side bar, you do it on the solo side bar.

You then add or remove weight on the rear bar only. Aim for the X. Remove or add weight until your side to side "misses" are down to a nice, ragged oval that basically kills the X."


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## sharkred7 (Jul 19, 2005)

RCR_III said:


> First and foremost, perfect draw length is imparative. Perfect. Down to the 1/16.
> 
> Outside of that, here's an article I wrote on stabilizer set up. https://rcrchery.wordpress.com/2014/07/06/balancing-act/
> 
> And here's a video I did on float patterns and affects of different situtations. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjQGT4NDIDc



Great video. That shows what you've come to recognize as your shooting and when every thing is not going as it should you can use your float to recognize and fix yourself right away.
This is, I am assuming, with perfect draw length That has to come first. I really like the work you put in and info you put out to help others. Thank you!


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## RCR_III (Mar 19, 2011)

You're welcome. Yes the video was done with perfect draw length. Feel free to email me if you have any questions on anything! [email protected] 


http://rcrchery.wordpress.com/ 
A one stop area for common topics about form, shot execution, practice, bow set up, and much more.


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## sharkred7 (Jul 19, 2005)

antlers21 said:


> I am kinda baffled at adding weight to either front or back to minimize float. I am going with a nitrum 34 with a 24" w/ 2oz out front and 12" w/ 6 oz on the rear. So far this seems the best but I am still getting more side to side float than I like. Maybe I just need to keep putting in more time and it will improve. Any tips or advice is so appreciated. Not sure if I should be trying more weights to see if that helps????


One thing I could add that I'm not sure others have touched on is how to check if you have bow hand tension. If you are getting slow sweeping side to side then follow the guidelines others have suggested. If it is rapid, almost vibration like, that is bow hand tension. To find out remove ALL stabilizers and watch your pin, If it is vibration side to side work on relaxing your bow hand and even playing with a different grip on the bow. GRIV should me this at one of his seminars and that really helped me.


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## sharkred7 (Jul 19, 2005)

One other thing to add is DO NOT add weight to rapidly. Too much mass wt and you will find your bow arm trying to "help" hold up the bow and that will cause tension in your bow shoulder and a whole host of other problems. I try to only add 2 oz at a time. Over time with my set up I have learned I am going to be at about a 1:2.5 oz ratio front wt to back wt. I shoot 30" up front and 10" on the back in the low rear mount. So I usually add an ounce up front and one on back. The next time maybe only 1 on the back. Shoot it for a few days paying attention to your float and fatigue level. Ideally you want to shoot as much wt as you can hold COMFORTABLY for a full round+
A heavier bow is more stable, simple physics, BUT you must be able to handle the weight physically!

Let us know how this info helps out and what changes you are making. Your feedback helps us all. After all, archers helping archers!

John


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## cbrunson (Oct 25, 2010)

I look at it this way, stabilizer weight balances the bow and slows down movement. Form controls float. 

The balance is at full draw. With a relaxed bow arm/hand the bubble should naturally sit level with the least amount of weight required to get it. Then I add weight an oz at a time until I reach the point where the weight is too much, then work backwards keeping the bow balance the way I like it. It is a trial and error thing.

Some people like to use it to counter tension rather than balance and that works well too. Like others have said, form is the first priority. Don't think that stabilizer weight fixes float. It can help fine tune though.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Lots of good info to work with.....


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## antlers21 (Jan 1, 2005)

Awesome, gonna start assessing it all tomorrow but got lots of info to go off of....thanks guys!


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

fast or slow float? just horizontal with no vertical?


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## antlers21 (Jan 1, 2005)

I got it holding really good, thanks for the information! I shot really well today


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## shoeminator (Jan 27, 2007)

Griv has a great article on setup.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

shoeminator said:


> Griv has a great article on setup.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


This? http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=3236985&p=1082096113#post1082096113


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## Reverend (Nov 2, 2004)

Great info here already. 
Hey Robert (RCR III), that was a great vid on pin float! Thanks. 
I'm personally doing something similar by attaching a laser pointer and recording the pin float. I've experienced all the floats you've shown. 
Would love to hear how to eliminate tension from bow hand, neck and upper shoulders. Also how do you eliminate the drop outs caused by engaging the back?


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Reverend said:


> Great info here already.
> Hey Robert (RCR III), that was a great vid on pin float! Thanks.
> I'm personally doing something similar by attaching a laser pointer and recording the pin float. I've experienced all the floats you've shown.
> Would love to hear how to eliminate tension from bow hand, neck and upper shoulders. Also how do you eliminate the drop outs caused by engaging the back?


Tension in the bow hand, neck and upper shoulders is usually due to the person trying too hard or too much draw weight or just overall bow fit. If trying too hard, maybe your bow hand grip is going med to high? Me, I have days where I have issues with having positive limb draw stops. I mean, granite hard wall. Like pulling myself apart, bow hand wants to go to med to high, even completely different placement (artificial wrist/thumb joint giving a wide space).
Dropping out, bow hand, bow arm, bow shoulder not in place properly. Me, if I dumb, I apply more heal (pressure) of the hand to riser grip, make myself feel the riser from web of hand straight off the palm of my hand.

I hate my computer or more issues with AT.


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

Is it your hunting bow or 3d bow, if it is your hunting bow and you enjoy those stabs I guess they are ok but they are long enough to put you in the open class and there for you should have a 30 or 33 inch front stab instead of a middle of the road stab. It is something to think about that I noticed.

As far as setting up stabs:

1. You have got to have at least 30 ounces of available weight but I prefer 50 total ounces. If you don't you are wasting your time.

2. Lay them out on your 3d stool at 50 yards or so and take all the weight off of your bow so nothing remains but the stabs with no weight.

3. Start shooting with no weight on the stabs and look at your float and see what it is like.

4. Start adding weight front and rear and keep shooting

5. Completely fill up the stabs with different combinations of perfect balance from front to back and neutral settings with all the weight

6. Have a piece of paper to write down the things you see and write down when you find a really good feeling setup and pin float.

7. Try and get 3 good variations that you felt had good reasons to be considered

8. Shoot with each of these variations over the next few weeks

9. As you get used to the weight your body will be ready to do the process again and you may have grown in strength and be able to see even better combinations the second time you do this process 4 to 5 weeks later, or you may find that one of the original three is proving to be the really good setup.

You don't need a formula you only need 50 ounces of weight that allows you to see the truth, the truth will change as you build up some strength but in the end you will find your perfect setup.


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