# Up down float



## Wyotarget (Mar 17, 2013)

As I aim my dot moves up and Down through the center of the target. It is currently going from center of the 9 at 12 o clock. To same point at 6 p clock. What adjustments would tighten this up without change in my left right float.


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## ron w (Jan 5, 2013)

where's your tiller set ?.... weight on front stick...make sure draw length is right for you..... low wrist or ??..... pushing bow with web of hand, or heel of hand,..... bow shoulder not set low.


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## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

peep height and shoulder alignment


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## RCR_III (Mar 19, 2011)

That's kinda excessive. Draw length would be something I would look at. And proper shoulder alignment.


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## Lungbustah (Oct 4, 2010)

Another vote for bow shoulder position too high/ loaded up. I always have to remind my self. I forget to do drop my shoulder when I start to get tired toward the end of a 5spot game


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## Wyotarget (Mar 17, 2013)

For most would say my draw length is way long. But it holds well, I see a lot of vertical movement. Been told part of my problem is I use a 7x lens so I see more than most. Bul looking to tighten it up. 30" stabilizer, 5oz up front. 15" back with 12oz. Low wrist, 

Sight picture is a slow up down float and groups show it also.


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## Wyotarget (Mar 17, 2013)




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## Wyotarget (Mar 17, 2013)




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## RCR_III (Mar 19, 2011)

Looking at your target you have a cluster of shots to the right of the ten ring. The picture you posted we can't really tell anything about draw length or shoulders or anything like that. But, it does look like the bow is canted to the right, which would put arrows to the right of where your dot was, IF you haven't set your 1st axis to compensate for this cant. So that's one thing I would look at. 

The other is micro adjusting your draw length and really more so the over spread of your body. Right misses can also be a slight too long draw length. Now, assuming that target is you at 20 yards, you're grouping well keeping most all of your shots in the 10 ring. So, you're close on your set up, it just needs some more fine tuning. 

Without seeing a picture of you to the side to see how the string is on your face and your anchor point with the release, I will just say this. Start very slightly shortening your overall spread and see what happens. Shoot two games and look at both targets after each game. Read the patterns. You may just need to shorten the d-loop 1/16 or 1/32 of an inch. But that little bit might be all you need to keep centered on the x/10 ring.


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## WCH (Aug 1, 2006)

I would say look at stab set up. Either take weight off the front or add weight to your side rod. May be a quick fix though if form is the problem.


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

One thing I would suggest is to study your float with letting down as a warm up and during your training, the reason is because I find that your firing engine can be a huge factor in the float that you are seeing. I have found that many of the firing methods out there have side effects that show up in your float pattern or dropping out the bottom etc and the only way that I know of that you can see if your firing engine is the cause is to not fire the bow and just study.

Studying can also teach you about the transition phase from being on the thumb peg to releasing the thumb peg and beginning your firing engine, I used to just take my thumb off and it dangled somewhere. I had no thought at all about this being a bad or good thing until I started studying my float without firing, that is when I realized that the moment that I took my thumb off the thumb peg my float not only changed but it got worse and usually there was a bobble in the float as I removed my thumb.

This is why I have spent time learning how to remove my thumb without messing with my float and I have also chosen a firing engine that allows me to shoot with my true float pattern.


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## Wyotarget (Mar 17, 2013)

No thumb peg, I spent 8 hours working with one a couple weeks ago. I found the let up then setting it back on the peg. The different pressure applied changed the way I looked theough the peep. I've got my click right as I set my anchor.


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## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

does your dot move fast or slow?


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## Wyotarget (Mar 17, 2013)

Dot moves slow, very little left right, most of the time when I notice left right movement I'm chicken winged with my release elbow. My left misses I attribute to this also. 

Just looking for pointers weather it's advance top cam slightly, or stabilizer adjusents. 

Where do you start with a vertical float.

My float speeds up when I shorten my DL.


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## cbrunson (Oct 25, 2010)

For me, vertical float is controlled by front stab weight and let-off/ holding pressure. Most of the time pulling into the stops a little harder stops the movement.


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## Bees (Jan 28, 2003)

I'm shooting similar patterns as you, my misses are just a bit bigger than yours. Well a couple a lot bigger.
For me my troubles isn't with my float. Its me generating extra unwanted motion during my cycle.
For now I'm leaving the bow alone and just working on my release mechanics. 
I know this is my problem, because when I make a clean release the arrow is in the middle.
If I can't get my mechanics better, I will add weight to the front end and see what happens...


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## bigHUN (Feb 5, 2006)

You guys talking about misses or flyers? 
Not the same, one is in your head and the other can be fine tuned easier.


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## Bees (Jan 28, 2003)

bigHUN said:


> You guys talking about misses or flyers?
> Not the same, one is in your head and the other can be fine tuned easier.


I'm talking about my misses, the two up high I know why they went up there and I am working on it.
the liners on the 10 ring seem to happen on a clean target face early in the round and then later in the round.
it's just sloppy execution on my part, I'm thinking as I progress into my new cycle things with get smoother.
right now seems like I get caught between the new way and the old way and wind up with no way.
I'm a work in progress... OH and that is a 20 yard target shot just before Thanksgiving... with the back up bow,
I won't tune the bow until I am certain that I have done all I can do with my form. 
then I will take a hard look at bow tune to see if things can be made better. but that is at least 3 months out.


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## Wyotarget (Mar 17, 2013)

I was talking up down bounce at full draw.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Wyotarget said:


> I was talking up down bounce at full draw.





N7709K said:


> peep height and shoulder alignment


And bow hand tension which often comes from peep height and shoulder alignment problems.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Wyotarget said:


> For most would say my draw length is way long. But it holds well, I see a lot of vertical movement. Been told part of my problem is I use a 7x lens so I see more than most. Bul looking to tighten it up. 30" stabilizer, 5oz up front. 15" back with 12oz. Low wrist,
> 
> Sight picture is a slow up down float and groups show it also.


ADD 1 twist to the bowstring TOP loop.
ADD 1.5 twists to the bowstring BOTTOM loop
and see how that changes the float pattern.

If you like,
then,
repeat the adjustment,
extra 1 twist for the TOP end loop of your bowstring
extra 1.5 twists for the BOTTOM end loop of your bowstring.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Wyotarget said:


> As I aim my dot moves up and Down through the center of the target. It is currently going from center of the 9 at 12 o clock. To same point at 6 p clock. What adjustments would tighten this up without change in my left right float.


Work your RIGHT armpit/RIGHT collar bone.

REALLY need a proper photo to diagnose.

MOST likely,
right armpit/right collar bone is HIGHER above the ground

than the LEFT armpit/LEFT collar bone.

3/4 view photos are useless.

Need a How's My Form photo,
wall behind you

camera lens in front of your NECK
90 degree camera lens angle.


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## Bees (Jan 28, 2003)

Wyotarget said:


> I was talking up down bounce at full draw.


When I was weaker with my bow arm and less aggressive with my rhomboid I would get the vertical bounce from time to time.

when I strengthen up the bow arm and got more aggressive with my rhomboid (more push and more pull) the bounce went away.


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## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

Hard hands cause a left right swing much more than an up/down.... 

How does the bow creep tune? 

With the dot moving slow, is it's a slow up and down or does the dot fall slow and you bring it back into the spot for it to fall out slowly again?


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## BUCK REAPER (Jul 14, 2011)

Tag


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## northern rednek (Oct 24, 2008)

There's guys in here that know way more than me but I've noticed if I'm not hard into the back wall I get up and down movement.


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## xavier102772 (Sep 2, 2010)

Bees said:


> When I was weaker with my bow arm and less aggressive with my rhomboid I would get the vertical bounce from time to time.
> 
> when I strengthen up the bow arm and got more aggressive with my rhomboid (more push and more pull) the bounce went away.


Same thing happens to me. Too weak with the bow arm and too weak with the back tension and up/down bounce is the result. Had more than a few of these moments tonight in fact. Wrote it in my journal so I can be more aware of it for my next practice session. 

I agree with Bees, look to your form and shot process rather than bow. Invariably it's the Indian and not the bow.


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