# Fletching Glue Comparison



## Les K

Thanks for the review. I was going to try the Gorilla Glue from Home Depot, but it looked like it was rather thin and runny compared to the super glue control gel (which is what I'm currently using). I turned the bottle upside down in the store and it looked like it would be hard for me to use, so I didn't buy it. 

Was it like a gel or was it thin and runny? I fletch 4" feathers so I like the thicker gel types because the bases of feathers seem more finicky.


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## Frankmcd

Buy it!!!! It is more fluid than the gel. The plus is that you are not having to squeeze those loctite bottles. It flows relatively easily, but it stay on the vane. Simply I take the top of vane in jig and tilt the bottle until it starts moving down the tube, easy to see and slowly draw it down the vane to be fletched. You will be surprised. It is less messy and easier to control than many others. It is not as fine of a hole as the control gel, but it comes out much easier than the control gel. You really don't need a lot of effort with this glue. Hands down, I don't think anyone will be disappointed if they buy and use this. For the money as well, great deal. *Try it you will like it!*


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## Archerynut008

*Plus one on the Gorilla Glue!*

I just fletched up my FMJs with 3 inch Fusion Vanes and I used the Gorilla Super Glue from Home Depot. It's very easy to get too much glue on the vanes however as it is runny and the tip of the bottle isn't as small as I'd like it. But just dab it lightly on the vane and then use the tip to spread it around so you have a thin base of glue on the vane. Works great!

This last Friday I was at a new archery shop that had recently opened up and they had new Spider Web targets for their practice range. Well they worked great for a while but I must have been hitting the same spot with my arrow enough to really weaken it cause my arrow ended up going all the way through up to the nock. What stopped the arrow was the tin wall behing the targets and my arrow had penetrated the wall by at least 8 inches. Well they had to take the target off the stand to get the arrow out of the wall. Then they pursued to try and pull the arrow out through the back of the target instead of pushing it back out the front, couldn't get to the arrow from the front because the targets have like a screen material then a few inches of deadspace before the suffing. It took 2 guys to pull the arrow out the back, because of the material used on the target, and in doing so it stripped the vanes and the wrap off the arrow. Now thats some tough glue! The best I've used yet. I will not be using any other glue for fletching my arrows. 

Here is a pic of the arrow after the fact.


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## Les K

I'll try it! 

By the way, you can disassemble those loc tite squeeze containers and you can remove the little tube that's inside. You will find it easy to use then and you'll also find that a LOT is wasted. 

I had a real problem trying to squeeze the sides of those stupid bottles. Try searching loc tite and the directions for doing this should come up. I'll try it as soon as I'm done writing this and let you know. The original poster had pictures and everything.


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## Les K

Ok, I found it but all of the pictures were deleted. If you search loctite, the second page in will be a thread by D-Train on Feb 2 2010, titled "used loctite look what I found."


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## Frankmcd

Don't get me wrong the loctite is good but I can rip the vane off with some effort. The gorilla glue you will rip the wrap off. As for applying the gorilla, lightly tilt the container as, yes it has a larger opening. I have not tilted upside down, just above 90 and it starts to come out, a little patience and you are good. It also does not take much to be efffective unlike the loctite that you really had to make sure that you got complete coverage and slightly thick to make sure that you really had the coverage. What I like about the gorilla, you don't have to be perfect, it spreads easily more so than loctite. Best advise: Slowly tilt, it will come out easy and spreads nicely. Then it will not move EVER!~


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## Michael Stogre

*Loctite ultra-gel impact formula*

try the loctite ultra gel impact formula glue for the best of both worlds--excellent
bond and excellent control of flow.

Michael Stogre
P.S. I purchased it at a Walmart store in Sudbury Ontario for 6.95 + tax


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## SouthShoreRat

I fletch 1000s of arrows a year and have tested a lot of different glues. Here are that I use in my shop and have great success with.


*For Vanes*

A.A.E. Fast Set Gel
B.S.I. (Bob Smith Industries) Gel
Vibra-Tite Gel 
Loctite Ultra Gel 
Loctite (with the brush)

Bohning Platnium (the leading edge of the vane only)

*For Feathers*

Bohning Platnium

*For Inserts* 

B.S.I. Toughened Black Rubberized (Hands down the best insert glue on the market)

Easton Quick H.I.T. For H.I.T. inserts
Easton Hot Melt for Easton ACCs
Easton Epoxy for H.I.T. inserts

The key to successful glue usage is arrow and vane prep.. When you are putting vanes on wraps your glue is only as good as the glue on the wraps. So extra care should be taken to make sure shafts are really clean before you install the wraps.

The best thing I have found in my entire career is a primer I use on vanes..

The most difficult vane on the market is Flex Fletch. In the past it has taken way too much time to scrub the foot with acetone prior to installing them on arrows. Even after taking care to prep these you still have some that would come loose.

A few weeks ago I found a product that has taken fletching to the next level.. I am convinced that 99.99% of adhesion issues can be resolved using this product. 

It is a super glue Primer made by Vibra-Tite. With Flex Fletch all you have to do is take a Q-Tip and wipe the foot once! let it dry 30 seconds and add glue.. The next day you cant pull the vane off with pliers.

One thing about messy glue.. Super glue gel is a unique product.. when thin it grabs instantly but when it is a glob it can actually be wiped off a arrow shaft.

This is my main reason in using Gels, I put too much on vanes on purpose, so I can wipe the squeeze out off for a more finished look.. I use Q Tips for this, it makes the vanes look like they were installed with a fletching machine.

This doesnt work with custom wraps. You only have two choices, use the Loctite with a brush and be very careful or use a very thin clear wrap over the custom wrap. 

Onestringer makes a thin wrap called a Double Dogg that works really well for this.


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## Les K

SouthShoreRat said:


> I fletch 1000s of arrows a year and have tested a lot of different glues. Here are that I use in my shop and have great success with.
> 
> 
> *For Vanes*
> 
> A.A.E. Fast Set Gel
> B.S.I. (Bob Smith Industries) Gel
> Vibra-Tite Gel
> Loctite Ultra Gel
> Loctite (with the brush)
> 
> Bohning Platnium (the leading edge of the vane only)
> 
> *For Feathers*
> 
> Bohning Platnium
> 
> *For Inserts*
> 
> B.S.I. Toughened Black Rubberized (Hands down the best insert glue on the market)
> 
> Easton Quick H.I.T. For H.I.T. inserts
> Easton Hot Melt for Easton ACCs
> Easton Epoxy for H.I.T. inserts
> 
> The key to successful glue usage is arrow and vane prep.. When you are putting vanes on wraps your glue is only as good as the glue on the wraps. So extra care should be taken to make sure shafts are really clean before you install the wraps.
> 
> The best thing I have found in my entire career is a primer I use on vanes..
> 
> The most difficult vane on the market is Flex Fletch. In the past it has taken way too much time to scrub the foot with acetone prior to installing them on arrows. Even after taking care to prep these you still have some that would come loose.
> 
> A few weeks ago I found a product that has taken fletching to the next level.. I am convinced that 99.99% of adhesion issues can be resolved using this product.
> 
> It is a super glue Primer made by Vibra-Tite. With Flex Fletch all you have to do is take a Q-Tip and wipe the foot once! let it dry 30 seconds and add glue.. The next day you cant pull the vane off with pliers.
> 
> One thing about messy glue.. Super glue gel is a unique product.. when thin it grabs instantly but when it is a glob it can actually be wiped off a arrow shaft.
> 
> This is my main reason in using Gels, I put too much on vanes on purpose, so I can wipe the squeeze out off for a more finished look.. I use Q Tips for this, it makes the vanes look like they were installed with a fletching machine.
> 
> This doesnt work with custom wraps. You only have two choices, use the Loctite with a brush and be very careful or use a very thin clear wrap over the custom wrap.
> 
> Onestringer makes a thin wrap called a Double Dogg that works really well for this.


Thanks for such detailed information! I currently use arrows with custom cresting (not wraps) and feathers and when I use the Fletch Tite Platinum, it has a sort of chemical reaction with the clear coat that I use that I don't like. It's not a cheap clear coat either, it's House of Kolor catalyzed Urethane that's more expensive than my arrow shafts! Automotive quality, and very hard. The Loctite gel glues don't seem to do this and hold well enough. 

It sounds like the Gorilla Glue might stick better than loctite according to some here, but I don't think I need to have my feathers stick to my cresting THAT well. I have had an arrow go completely through a target and the feathers were still completely bonded. I like the control of the gel when it goes on, and it sounds like Loctite gel will flow better for me. It sounds like the Gorilla Glue is definitely thinner and will be harder for me to work with. I do like the rubberized impact formula. 

Thanks all.


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## SouthShoreRat

Les K said:


> Thanks for such detailed information! I currently use arrows with custom cresting (not wraps) and feathers and when I use the Fletch Tite Platinum, it has a sort of chemical reaction with the clear coat that I use that I don't like. It's not a cheap clear coat either, it's House of Kolor catalyzed Urethane that's more expensive than my arrow shafts! Automotive quality, and very hard. The Loctite gel glues don't seem to do this and hold well enough.
> 
> It sounds like the Gorilla Glue might stick better than loctite according to some here, but I don't think I need to have my feathers stick to my cresting THAT well. I have had an arrow go completely through a target and the feathers were still completely bonded. I like the control of the gel when it goes on, and it sounds like Loctite gel will flow better for me. It sounds like the Gorilla Glue is definitely thinner and will be harder for me to work with. I do like the rubberized impact formula.
> 
> Thanks all.


I havent dealt much with cresting but I can see how that may be an issue.


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## Kstigall

I've been using the Loctite brush on for a few years. The brush puts on a nice thin, neat layer. I've not lost a vane including Flex Fletch in this time. Loctite Gel is a pain for me. Recently used B.S.I. glue and it seems to be doing great. I made sure to cut the tip so there is a VERY small opening.

There is no way I'll ever spend the bucks for "fletching" specific glue again, especially Platinum!

After shooting arrows thousands of times indoors I have confidence a glue will hold. The Loctite brush on works and I'm certain that the B.S.I glue will also. I think any of the impact or flexible super glues will work. The Gorilla Glue is readily available so that's what I intend to purchase in the future.


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## Frankmcd

Another big plus for the gorilla glue for me is that I get 2-3 times the amount of glue for a dollar more than the loctites. I haven't seen the brush applicator, or any of the loctites with a brush, but that may be where I am shopping. The one bottle of gorilla will be lasting a long time. I had a hard time knowing if I was out of the gel with loctite and it was to much of a pain to squeeze the stupid blue bottle. I would probably be the one in trying to open that bottle to get to the tube who ended up either gluing himself either to the arrow, or worse the table. Can't you just here that 911 call...


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## TN.Frank

I used Fletch Tite for years on Cedar shafts with feather fletching and never had a problem. Don't know if you got a bad batch or what.


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## ajstrider

First I would like to point something out, for Quickspin vanes you have to use a cyanoacrylate glue, which Fletch Tite Platinum is not, this is why it won't work out all with those vanes. 

My favorite glue for all purposes is the AAE Fastset glue. This stuff will make anything stick to anything, and it bonds in literally seconds. If you use it on inserts, you better be quick and not mess up, you don't get much time. It also beads out very well from its container which is nice.

I've tried Fletch Tite Platinum, Goat Tuff Premium, Quantum XT, and AAE Fastset.


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## safe cracker

*fletching glues...*

i found you need to match the glue with the vanes for the best hold..
like using aae fast set gel and aae vanes..
and using loctite super glue for inserts. 
seems to be the best of both worlds. 
that my .02.....:thumb:


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## Suwannee Ronnie

The Gorilla Glue sounds great. Is it difficult to remove from the arrow when refletching?


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## Kieths

Suwannee Ronnie said:


> The Gorilla Glue sounds great. Is it difficult to remove from the arrow when refletching?


Really its true that Gorilla Glue is great! But i don't think so that its difficult to remove it from the arrow when refletching..


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## 454casull

If you use a wrap removal is easy. Sounds like you would not want to use it on a bare carbon shaft. Not bashing just looking to see if it can easily be removed to re-fletch.


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## deernutz

Gorilla glue and fletchtite platinum are the only glues I have used for vanes. The platinum sucked and the gorilla worked great.platinum took for ever to dry and came off fairly easily. it was even worse when I tried to used it for inserts...maybe that isn't the way it was supposed to be used but it wasn't dry after 3 days.The Gorilla worked pretty well. It is runny and has a larger hole on the applicator than the platinum. its easy to put on way too much glue but like people said with the glues before...I just wiped it off with a qtip and it was fine. This was on a wrap also. less messy way is to put 3-4 dots of glue on the vane and then spread with the tip. leaves very little or none to wipe off. I have been gluing in insert with it too and haven't had one pull out.


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## fire stomper

cant anyone tell me what the set up time is on Gorilla glue before you can remove the clamp.


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## Kade

fire stomper said:


> cant anyone tell me what the set up time is on Gorilla glue before you can remove the clamp.


Only about a min or so on any super glue unless your using too much. I usually leave mine in longer then that. But I'm not in a rush when fletching. 

Even using a glue like Flex Bond you can take the clamp off pretty quick. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Squawsach

Gorilla glue is all I use now. I have tried about every glue for fletching and the Gorilla glue wins. It is a pain to remove when refletching but I refletch less often now.


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## straddleridge

The biggest problem for me has been getting glue out of a bottle and applying it. Gorilla glue is one of the easiest. I found another one - "The Original Super Glue" in a bottle called "accutool". I think it is as strong as gorilla glue and easier to apply. I am not sure where I bought it but I believe it was Home Depot or Menards. The recommended clamp time for gluing is 15 seconds. Comes in a 5 gram bottle just like gorilla glue for the same price.

So now I have two types
Gorilla glue and the original super glue


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## LtlRushnArchr30

Les K said:


> Thanks for such detailed information! I currently use arrows with custom cresting (not wraps) and feathers and when I use the Fletch Tite Platinum, it has a sort of chemical reaction with the clear coat that I use that I don't like. It's not a cheap clear coat either, it's House of Kolor catalyzed Urethane that's more expensive than my arrow shafts! Automotive quality, and very hard. The Loctite gel glues don't seem to do this and hold well enough.
> 
> It sounds like the Gorilla Glue might stick better than loctite according to some here, but I don't think I need to have my feathers stick to my cresting THAT well. I have had an arrow go completely through a target and the feathers were still completely bonded. I like the control of the gel when it goes on, and it sounds like Loctite gel will flow better for me. It sounds like the Gorilla Glue is definitely thinner and will be harder for me to work with. I do like the rubberized impact formula.
> 
> Thanks all.


Try lacquer based products. something about the chemicals in the glue breaking down anything but lacquers.


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## LtlRushnArchr30

SouthShoreRat said:


> I fletch 1000s of arrows a year and have tested a lot of different glues. Here are that I use in my shop and have great success with.
> 
> 
> *For Vanes*
> 
> A.A.E. Fast Set Gel
> B.S.I. (Bob Smith Industries) Gel
> Vibra-Tite Gel
> Loctite Ultra Gel
> Loctite (with the brush)
> 
> Bohning Platnium (the leading edge of the vane only)
> 
> *For Feathers*
> 
> Bohning Platnium
> 
> *For Inserts*
> 
> B.S.I. Toughened Black Rubberized (Hands down the best insert glue on the market)
> 
> Easton Quick H.I.T. For H.I.T. inserts
> Easton Hot Melt for Easton ACCs
> Easton Epoxy for H.I.T. inserts
> 
> The key to successful glue usage is arrow and vane prep.. When you are putting vanes on wraps your glue is only as good as the glue on the wraps. So extra care should be taken to make sure shafts are really clean before you install the wraps.
> 
> The best thing I have found in my entire career is a primer I use on vanes..
> 
> The most difficult vane on the market is Flex Fletch. In the past it has taken way too much time to scrub the foot with acetone prior to installing them on arrows. Even after taking care to prep these you still have some that would come loose.
> 
> A few weeks ago I found a product that has taken fletching to the next level.. I am convinced that 99.99% of adhesion issues can be resolved using this product.
> 
> It is a super glue Primer made by Vibra-Tite. With Flex Fletch all you have to do is take a Q-Tip and wipe the foot once! let it dry 30 seconds and add glue.. The next day you cant pull the vane off with pliers.
> 
> One thing about messy glue.. Super glue gel is a unique product.. when thin it grabs instantly but when it is a glob it can actually be wiped off a arrow shaft.
> 
> This is my main reason in using Gels, I put too much on vanes on purpose, so I can wipe the squeeze out off for a more finished look.. I use Q Tips for this, it makes the vanes look like they were installed with a fletching machine.
> 
> This doesnt work with custom wraps. You only have two choices, use the Loctite with a brush and be very careful or use a very thin clear wrap over the custom wrap.
> 
> Onestringer makes a thin wrap called a Double Dogg that works really well for this.


Awesome review! definitely some great info there. Have you tried the Bohning Quantum XT? I havent found anything I like better by a long shot than that stuff for fletching, and inserts.


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## Flame-Tamer

Try putting a dab on the back of duct tape and use a qtip to spread it evenly on the fletch/vane... than apply. easy as pie. no waste.. no drips.... no mess.


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## BUSHfire

can you buy that gorilla glue from walmart? I ask because thats were I bought mine, its in a clear bottle with a tall blue lid, and real small on the bottle it says IMPACT-TOUGH formula. Anyways I cant get this stuff to work!!! I am using it on fusion vanes and its not adhering at all, and its still wet in areas even a hour later!!! I dont know whats going on. I have experience fletching arrows and put 2" fusions on my arrows over a year ago and they are still rock solid, with no problems. I have read where the fusions had some problems and weren't sticking for some people, so maybe I got a bad batch of vanes I dont know. very frustrating when trying to fletch arrows for your 5 years old daughter and things dont work and she cant shoot!!!!
thanks


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## dreville

Hi BUSHFire, Ive used the gorilla glue quite a bit with feathers. And I had the same problem.

The main problem I found was I was using too much glue. The nozzle is too wide. Try using a few beads and just spread it around with the side of the nozzle.


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## BUSHfire

I tried that but still didnt work, more than anything I think its the darn fusion vanes, they are like wrinkling at the contact point on the arrow and not sticking for nothing. It sucks because I use to brag fusion up over blazers all the time but I am not so sure now...


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## Huntress1975

Thanks for this info! I got the Arizona E-Z fletch so I can fletch my own arrows. I scrubbed the arrows yada yada. I was told to use the fletchtite platinum, so I did. After letting them sit for a couple days I flicked a vane it it flew off. Oh was I mad since all the arrows I fletched the vanes are worthless now and I have to wait to get more. I will try the gorilla glue for my next attempt to fletch my arrows.


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## EPLC

SouthShoreRat said:


> I fletch 1000s of arrows a year and have tested a lot of different glues. Here are that I use in my shop and have great success with.
> 
> 
> *For Vanes*
> 
> A.A.E. Fast Set Gel
> B.S.I. (Bob Smith Industries) Gel
> Vibra-Tite Gel
> Loctite Ultra Gel
> Loctite (with the brush)
> 
> Bohning Platnium (the leading edge of the vane only)
> 
> *For Feathers*
> 
> Bohning Platnium
> 
> *For Inserts*
> 
> B.S.I. Toughened Black Rubberized (Hands down the best insert glue on the market)
> 
> Easton Quick H.I.T. For H.I.T. inserts
> Easton Hot Melt for Easton ACCs
> Easton Epoxy for H.I.T. inserts
> 
> The key to successful glue usage is arrow and vane prep.. When you are putting vanes on wraps your glue is only as good as the glue on the wraps. So extra care should be taken to make sure shafts are really clean before you install the wraps.
> 
> The best thing I have found in my entire career is a primer I use on vanes..
> 
> The most difficult vane on the market is Flex Fletch. In the past it has taken way too much time to scrub the foot with acetone prior to installing them on arrows. Even after taking care to prep these you still have some that would come loose.
> 
> A few weeks ago I found a product that has taken fletching to the next level.. I am convinced that 99.99% of adhesion issues can be resolved using this product.
> 
> It is a super glue Primer made by Vibra-Tite. With Flex Fletch all you have to do is take a Q-Tip and wipe the foot once! let it dry 30 seconds and add glue.. The next day you cant pull the vane off with pliers.
> 
> One thing about messy glue.. Super glue gel is a unique product.. when thin it grabs instantly but when it is a glob it can actually be wiped off a arrow shaft.
> 
> This is my main reason in using Gels, I put too much on vanes on purpose, so I can wipe the squeeze out off for a more finished look.. I use Q Tips for this, it makes the vanes look like they were installed with a fletching machine.
> 
> This doesnt work with custom wraps. You only have two choices, use the Loctite with a brush and be very careful or use a very thin clear wrap over the custom wrap.
> 
> Onestringer makes a thin wrap called a Double Dogg that works really well for this.


Did a search on Vibra-Tite and all I found was a thread locker???


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## SouthShoreRat

The parent company is ND Industries


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## gmgg

I also use Gorilla glue. I was using the Norway Industries Zeon Fusions vanes and they are the hardest vanes to to fletch it appears. I talked to several shops and most won't even try them anymore. They only glue that would work was the Gorilla glue. For a while I thought I sucked at it but now that we can use lighted nocks I switched to the Fusion 2" vanes and all I learned with the Zeons namely Gorilla glue, makes my fletch work come out awesome. One extra note I put a small dot of Platinum Fletch Tite on the from and back ends of my vanes for a little added toughness.


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## repomannwp

My results match those of the OP. The only other thing I do with the Gorilla Glue is to wipe the vane lightly with the edge of a playing card before closing my fletching jig. This removes any excess glue, and insures a completely even and complete application of the glue across teh surface area of the vane.


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## gmgg

I actually put a spot of it on a plastic tray and use a Q-tip to apply it to the vane.


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## b-a-maniak

SouthShoreRat said:


> I fletch 1000s of arrows a year and have tested a lot of different glues. Here are that I use in my shop and have great success with.
> 
> 
> *For Vanes*
> 
> A.A.E. Fast Set Gel
> B.S.I. (Bob Smith Industries) Gel
> Vibra-Tite Gel
> Loctite Ultra Gel
> Loctite (with the brush)
> 
> Bohning Platnium (the leading edge of the vane only)
> 
> *For Feathers*
> 
> Bohning Platnium
> 
> *For Inserts*
> 
> B.S.I. Toughened Black Rubberized (Hands down the best insert glue on the market)
> 
> Easton Quick H.I.T. For H.I.T. inserts
> Easton Hot Melt for Easton ACCs
> Easton Epoxy for H.I.T. inserts
> 
> The key to successful glue usage is arrow and vane prep.. When you are putting vanes on wraps your glue is only as good as the glue on the wraps. So extra care should be taken to make sure shafts are really clean before you install the wraps.
> 
> The best thing I have found in my entire career is a primer I use on vanes..
> 
> The most difficult vane on the market is Flex Fletch. In the past it has taken way too much time to scrub the foot with acetone prior to installing them on arrows. Even after taking care to prep these you still have some that would come loose.
> 
> A few weeks ago I found a product that has taken fletching to the next level.. I am convinced that 99.99% of adhesion issues can be resolved using this product.
> 
> It is a super glue Primer made by Vibra-Tite. With Flex Fletch all you have to do is take a Q-Tip and wipe the foot once! let it dry 30 seconds and add glue.. The next day you cant pull the vane off with pliers.
> 
> One thing about messy glue.. Super glue gel is a unique product.. when thin it grabs instantly but when it is a glob it can actually be wiped off a arrow shaft.
> 
> This is my main reason in using Gels, I put too much on vanes on purpose, so I can wipe the squeeze out off for a more finished look.. I use Q Tips for this, it makes the vanes look like they were installed with a fletching machine.
> 
> This doesnt work with custom wraps. You only have two choices, use the Loctite with a brush and be very careful or use a very thin clear wrap over the custom wrap.
> 
> Onestringer makes a thin wrap called a Double Dogg that works really well for this.


Where do you get the primer from? It's not a blowe's or home dumpo thing, at least not here.


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## bbjavelina

Frankmcd said:


> Another big plus for the gorilla glue for me is that I get 2-3 times the amount of glue for a dollar more than the loctites. I haven't seen the brush applicator, or any of the loctites with a brush, but that may be where I am shopping. The one bottle of gorilla will be lasting a long time. I had a hard time knowing if I was out of the gel with loctite and it was to much of a pain to squeeze the stupid blue bottle. I would probably be the one in trying to open that bottle to get to the tube who ended up either gluing himself either to the arrow, or worse the table. Can't you just here that 911 call...


You bring back a rather un-fond memory! Back in the 80's I used some type CA glue for a very specific gunsmithing procedure. Always kept the glue in the fridge. 

One evening I was in a rush and put the tube in my left armpit to warm it up in a hurry. After an hour or so with a razorblade in front of a mirror, and lots of blood swabbing I got my arm free. These days I find that a jigger and warm water work much better. 

I've heard it said that good decisions come from experience, and that most experience come from previous bad decisions. That was a really bad decision, but even I was able to learn from it. 

Better decisions to you.


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## gofor

I use the Gorilla Glue Gel. Works great. 4 small dabs on a 4" vane and spread it out with the tip. For me it is easier to get just enough glue with the gel than with the liquid.

A couple of observations:

The bottle directions say shake before use. Its important. If you don't shake it, the glue comes out runny and doesn't adhere well. Also, shake it again after about every 5 or 6 vanes (or every couple of minutes).

I store mine in the refrigerator, but have found it still may get weaker after about 6 months.

JMTCW

Go


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## Rabbit57

This is a great test on 6 glues.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSg7kG05bsA


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## NorCal_Matt

Great info, thanks all for the knowledge.


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## b0w_bender

Interesting, you didn't mention anywhere that you had cleaned the vanes before you tested. Did you do that? 
I've always used fletch-tite my self and I also use wraps with blazers. I've never tried to pull them off manually later but when they come off they almost always tear the vinyl wrap before they come apart. The bond between the vane and the wrap is not the weakest joint by far. Now I admit that I always clean the vanes vigorously with denatured alcohol before gluing them on. I wonder if gorilla glue cuts the release agent that quick spins uses in the molding manufacturing process or if it melts into the plastic surface it's self. Either way it sounds like it does a great job. you have inspired me to do a bit of testing my self.

My experience with super glues is that when they take any impact it's like the glue joint shatters rather then flex and over time the glue its self fails. Have you had any issues with that?


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