# Press Plans



## Gunner7800

Attached are some plans I have revised. Thanks to lc12 for the spot checks, I get in a hurry and don't QC my own work. If anybody else notices something let me know and I'll update them.


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## buckeyboy

*Press*

Wow you did a great Job thats going to help alot of guys out 
what program Auto Cad?:thumbs_up


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## kevin y

really nice plans, just what i needed. thanks for sharing.


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## Fast Ed

where do you get the fingers?


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## Gunner7800

buckeyboy said:


> Wow you did a great Job thats going to help alot of guys out
> what program Auto Cad?:thumbs_up


Yup, AutoCAD



Fast Ed said:


> where do you get the fingers?


You'll have to find those yourself. There is a thread in here somewhere that has a finger drawn up, you'd just have to cut it out or find somebody to cut it out for you.


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## Gunner7800

*Parts List*

Attached is a parts list for McMaster-Carr. I know some people are bargain shoppers and can find some of this stuff cheaper or buy it locally, but it's just a generic list to give people an idea of what I used.

Soon there will be a list from lc12 with a list of Enco part numbers too!!


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## joebass

If you know where to look, fingers can be found....


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## Fast Ed

I don't know where to look


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## Gunner7800

Gunner7800 said:


> You'll have to find those yourself. There is a thread in here somewhere that has a finger drawn up, you'd just have to cut it out or find somebody to cut it out for you.


Post #9.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=885021&highlight=finger+design


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## Fast Ed

*fingers*

thank you


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## Iron Mike

Can't seem to open the files......say's they're damaged and can't be repaired.


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## Gunner7800

Iron Mike said:


> Can't seem to open the files......say's they're damaged and can't be repaired.


When you click on them a window pops up and asks you if you want to open, save, or cancel. When I click on Open, they open up just fine. If you click on Save, you can save them to your computer then open them with Adobe reader. If you are saving them and they don't open, try clicking Open on the window that pops up, then go to File and click on Save a Copy or Save As and save them to your computer. Then you can try to open them from there. Hope that helps.

You can download the free Adobe reader here if you need to:
Free Adobe Reader


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## lc12

joebass said:


> If you know where to look, fingers can be found....


Sometimes you have to be creative!!!:darkbeer:

I found a guy that had some metal "chop sticks" for sale that looked just like some fingers!:thumbs_up  :ninja:


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## Gunner7800

*Parts List update*

Here is a parts list with Enco numbers. Thanks to lc12.


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## Gunner7800

*Updated List*

I updated the price for a 6ft stick of 1.5" tubing rather than a 4ft stick. You can get a 4ft stick of the 1.75" tubing if you eliminate the cross member. 

Also, if you get a 6ft stick of 1.5", then you will have leftover depending on how long your legs are. If you order a 4ft stick, then your legs will be around 9" depending on the width of your cuts.

And, if you're not comfortable using these tubing sizes, bump everything up a size or two. Do whatever makes you more comfortable. Remember that it's your press, do with it what you want and make it your own.:teeth:

Hope this helps.


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## wildbill3832

*ttt*

thanks!


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## badshot506

This is the best press plan I have ever seen. Thank you for sharing your skills.


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## anthony270

Thank you for plans they will be a great deal of help.


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## Gunner7800

Happy to do it.:darkbeer:


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## Gunner7800

joebass said:


> If you know where to look, fingers can be found....





Fast Ed said:


> I don't know where to look


I just saw what was under you username joe.:wink::set1_rolf2::set1_rolf2:


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## Gunner7800

So I've changed the plans a little bit. The complete press can be built using only 2 sticks of tubing. A 4ft stick of the small tubing and a 4ft stick of the large tubing. The cross member or "caution bar" has been removed from these plans.


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## Trilithon

I have a question on the screw assembly, What is used as the 'carrier' surface for the acme screw?

Is it supported by the plate welded on to the end?

I am gonna build a press and I am looking at all the presses being shown here. I think I would like that point supported by a bearing.

And please understand, I am NOT saying it is wrong by any means, just have questions.

Thanks.


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## AmishArcher

Gunner7800 said:


> The cross member or "caution bar" has been removed from these plans.


mind if I ask why you removed it?

I got one of the caution presses before he shut it down. LOVE the caution bar. I can set my bow on there, w/ the cams between the fingers, and work on the string like tying in a d loop/serving a peep. the Caution Bars are one of my favorite characteristics of the press


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## Bowdiddly

Thanks for the plans. I know I saw on here where someone made the fingers.
Thanks again


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## lc12

With all of the interest in Gunner7800's original plans, including the caution bar, I have been going over them and have some info that can be included.
I broke it down into a "parts and pieces" by item.
I just called it "large" and "small" tube since some may opt for larger or smaller tubing in building theirs.
Here is the list for the steel pieces:
*LARGE TUBE:*
1 pc @ 24" (main body)
2 pcs @ 1 1/2" (leg cups)
2 pcs @ 2" (caution bar end pieces)
2 pcs @ 1 1/2" (caution bar sliders for pipe supports)
This totals to 34" of large tubing plus add a smidge for the kerf cuts!
*SMALL TUBE:*
1 pc @ 24" (slide arm)
1 pc @ 6" (finger support arm on slider)
1 pc @ 5 3/4" (finger support arm on main body)
Note: This way you can use the large tube to make "removable finger supports if you desire!
2 pcs @ 11" (legs)
1 pc @ 20 3/4" (caution bar)
This totals to 78 1/2" of small tubing plus add a smidge for the kerf cuts
*MISC:*
1 pc 2" x 2" x 1/4" plate with 7/8" hole in center (main tube)
1 pc 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1/4" plate with 7/8" hole in center (with nut welded on end! for slider arm)
2 pcs 3/4" diameter x 6" long pipe (caution bar supports)
*I also just noticed that the length of the small tubing now is greater than 6 ft!!!*
This should compliment Gunner7800's McMaster-Carr / Enco Parts document. :thumbs_up
I have posted this after contacting Gunner7800 and he informed me of his revised plan that eliminates the caution bar. The reason he eliminated the bar was to save on the materials needed. When having to buy a 6 ft. length of tubing there seems to be a delay in shipment too!
And, as I have discovered, you need MORE than six feet of the smaller tube to complete the press so look at your plans carefully.
Another note to all is to be sure and place your "slider" brackets that has the pipe welded to it to support the bow, BEFORE you weld the end "slider" pieces onto the caution bar. Obviously you will not be able to do it later unless you cut the end piece off!:thumbs_do
I am thinking of using the perforated steel tubing available at most local hardware stores to use for the leg and caution bar assembly. The pre-punched holes allow for multiple adjustments and you can use long bolts covered with vinyl tubing through the holes in the caution bar to support the bow instead of welding a "slider bracket with pipe" unit. Just a thought!
Gunner7800 has gone above and beyond in providing these plans and has done an excellent job! I think most all of you will agree.
And my notes just go to show you that you can tweak this plan to your personal wants and needs.
Just do as I did, and go over the plan piece by piece, page by page, and assemble your own parts and cut plan, and have fun!!!
Good luck to all and thanks again to Gunner7800!!! :thumbs_up:thumbs_up:thumbs_up


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## Gunner7800

Trilithon said:


> I have a question on the screw assembly, What is used as the 'carrier' surface for the acme screw?
> 
> Is it supported by the plate welded on to the end?
> 
> I am gonna build a press and I am looking at all the presses being shown here. I think I would like that point supported by a bearing.
> 
> And please understand, I am NOT saying it is wrong by any means, just have questions.
> 
> Thanks.


Not a problem, unlike a lot of others I welcome questions and criticisms. I like to think it makes me more proficient in anything I do.

With this setup the acme rod just rides in the hole that has been drilled in the end plate of the main body. It would be very easy to change to a bearing assembly that holds the acme rod in place. I just did it this way to save some $$. I have done mine this way and it works just fine. If you plan on pressing a lot of bows all the time, then I would recommend replacing the roller bearings with a bearing block like a lot of other builders have done.



AmishArcher said:


> mind if I ask why you removed it?
> 
> I got one of the caution presses before he shut it down. LOVE the caution bar. I can set my bow on there, w/ the cams between the fingers, and work on the string like tying in a d loop/serving a peep. the Caution Bars are one of my favorite characteristics of the press


The only reason the caution bar was removed was to save in materials. I have one on mine, but a lot of people have stated that a person doesn't need the caution bar. And I say to them, to each their own. If you want it you can easily add it with just a little more tubing.




Bowdiddly said:


> Thanks for the plans. I know I saw on here where someone made the fingers.
> Thanks again


You're welcome.


I know I've told this to some people in PM's but I want to make sure everybody knows. 

The reason I posted these plans was to help people save some $$ and have a project they completed/modified themselves. These plans are INTENDED to be generic. The whole idea is for people to have something to get them started then they can modify it however they please and really make this press their own!!

Not everything in the plans are calculated to meet a person's specific criteria for what they want. That's where the 'ol bean kicks in and some will make theirs longer, shorter, taller, add a bearing assembly, even chrome it(I'd like to see that.....or dip it:wink.

So my hat is off to everyone who builds one. Make it your own and have fun with it, that's the idea.:thumbs_up:darkbeer:

P.S.----I want to see pictures of what you've done and any modifications you've made!!!


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## Gunner7800

ttt--One more time won't hurt.


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## Trilithon

Thanks, taking the best of many of the presses I see here and got some parts and pieces coming.

Think I will base the primary dimensions off of yours. Gonna rework the screw mount/bearing a bit.

Will post what I come up with later.


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## trimalimb

Have you considered leaving the caution bar and one peg....... You then could mount some sort of a jack with crank vertically and centered on your main press......with a arm extending over to where you could attach a bow scale..... With this attached you could place the handle of the bow under the peg, hook your bow scale up to the loop or string and not only be able to press the bow but also be able to check let off, actual draw length, and bow weight all in one system...... Hope this description makes sense.


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## Gunner7800

trimalimb said:


> Have you considered leaving the caution bar and one peg....... You then could mount some sort of a jack with crank vertically and centered on your main press......with a arm extending over to where you could attach a bow scale..... With this attached you could place the handle of the bow under the peg, hook your bow scale up to the loop or string and not only be able to press the bow but also be able to check let off, actual draw length, and bow weight all in one system...... Hope this description makes sense.


Yup, I get it. Another thought I had along the same line is to make inserts for each of the arms. On one arm you could mount the bow, on the other arm you could attach a scale that also attaches to the string. Then a person could just extend the press and have the same effect you're talking about. That way it would be a little more compact than mounting something to the top of the press.

If you make something like you're describing, post some pics. I'd love to see them.:darkbeer:


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## trimalimb

I like that idea as well...heck you probably could make it a hooter shooter also. I have been planning on making a press myself. Your prints will help me get started. I appreciate you putting the measurements out there for us all.


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## trimalimb

with the inserts like you are talking about would keep the bow chest level as well. I like that idea a lot.


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## Gunner7800

ttt


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## Trilithon

Got all my pieces in and cut. Got a friend that's a welder and he's gonna get it together hopefully tomorrow.

Pretty much the same measuremens as yours, except I used 2" for the stationary tube and 1.75" for the sliding arm.


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## lc12

As you all know, Gunner7800 has put together some GREAT cad drawings on this site.
I have gone through his plans and helped with some minor adjustments which he revised and posted quickly for everyones use! And I appreciate his work very much, as it helped simplify the building of my press.
You will notice that I posted a "steel materials cut list" earlier (post #25) which was based on Gunner7800's cad file.
As he mentioned these plans are base plans which anyone can modify to their own needs.
In building my press I ended up going with a 31" main tube and 33" slider tube which is closer to what a "factory" linear press is dimensioned at, and allows for longer bows to be pressed.
I had also discovered that 2" main tube and 1 3/4" slider tube is WAY OVERKILL in my opinion!!!
You can easily use 1 3/4" and 1 1/2" tubing, and maybe even the next size smaller! I built a prototype using 1 1/2" and 1 1/4" perforated tubing available at Lowe's and this was plenty strong!
So just a reminder to all that you can modify Gunner7800's plans to suit your needs and you can cut some cost by going with smaller steel.
But do yourself a favor and go over the plans, making your own cut list, page by page and item by item. It is much easier to make a mistake on paper, and remember the old adage...."measure twice, cut once"!
Have fun building one of the most important tools you can have to work on your bows yourself!!!
Thanks again Gunner7800!!!!!


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## nmhunter01

*press fingers*

I loved the cad drawings. exactly what I needed. Are there any detailed drawings for the fingers? I am planning on building a press real similar to yours (mostly like yours) but I'm also thinking about the option of a slide over finger base or a under the cam cushioned pin. 
Thanks
Jimmy King
NMhunter01


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## Gunner7800

Gunner7800 said:


> Post #9.
> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=885021&highlight=finger+design





nmhunter01 said:


> I loved the cad drawings. exactly what I needed. Are there any detailed drawings for the fingers? I am planning on building a press real similar to yours (mostly like yours) but I'm also thinking about the option of a slide over finger base or a under the cam cushioned pin.
> Thanks
> Jimmy King
> NMhunter01


Here ya go hunter.


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## ILOVE3D

*Press pland*

I've called the local steel shops and they don't even know what nestable steel is let alone have any. What's the difference from regular tubing, is it the seam on the inside? Also, is the Acme threaded rod 3/4. Thanks for the info, these are great looking presses.


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## Gunner7800

ILOVE3D said:


> I've called the local steel shops and they don't even know what nestable steel is let alone have any. What's the difference from regular tubing, is it the seam on the inside? Also, is the Acme threaded rod 3/4. Thanks for the info, these are great looking presses.


That's right, no seam inside and it's a tighter fit so the pieces slide through each other easily without much slop. Yes, it is 3/4"-6 acme rod.


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## Trilithon

regular steel tubing has a seam weld running down one of the walls, nestable tubing is welded on a corner and there is no seam, and the sizes are closer, for example:

1.75" OD square tube with .105" wall comes to a 1.54" ID. This leaves .02" all around it for a 1.5" OD sqaure tube to slide in.

I used a 3/4" x 6 Acme rod, 3' long and ended up hacking off about 6" when all was said and done.




ILOVE3D said:


> I've called the local steel shops and they don't even know what nestable steel is let alone have any. What's the difference from regular tubing, is it the seam on the inside? Also, is the Acme threaded rod 3/4. Thanks for the info, these are great looking presses.


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## nmhunter01

*Caution bar*

What is the purpose of the caution bar and 3/4" x 6" pipe. Is it to keep your bow more stable? If there was a concern about the bow working it's way upward, would you set the 3/4" pins resting on top of the riser and if you were worried about the bow going south put the pins on the bottom of the riser? Would one 3/4x6 piece work in the instance I'm describing. I may be way off here and not understand the purpose at all. I cut out out most of the pieces today anyway and will probably start assembling this weekend.
Thanks


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## Gunner7800

nmhunter01 said:


> What is the purpose of the caution bar and 3/4" x 6" pipe. Is it to keep your bow more stable? If there was a concern about the bow working it's way upward, would you set the 3/4" pins resting on top of the riser and if you were worried about the bow going south put the pins on the bottom of the riser? Would one 3/4x6 piece work in the instance I'm describing. I may be way off here and not understand the purpose at all. I cut out out most of the pieces today anyway and will probably start assembling this weekend.
> Thanks


The caution bar is meant to catch your bow if it would happen to slip out of the fingers while you have it pressed. It's there for the warm and fuzzy feeling.


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## ILOVE3D

*press*

I ordered my materials from McMaster today, one piece will ship in 2 weeks, all others today. Can't wait to get started. This is one awsome press. Thanks Gunner and to all the rest of you that had suggestions.


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## doc6

I have been looking and looking at all the DIY presses and other items and Great job everyone. I have builded the Hydro-Press for my Legacy and going to get the Z7 so. 

Is the linier press :

1. Hard to crank?
2. Fingers in the way?

I really like this style and about ready to order material.


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## Gunner7800

doc6 said:


> I have been looking and looking at all the DIY presses and other items and Great job everyone. I have builded the Hydro-Press for my Legacy and going to get the Z7 so.
> 
> Is the linier press :
> 
> 1. Hard to crank?
> 2. Fingers in the way?
> 
> I really like this style and about ready to order material.


1. The press is relatively easy to crank, it's a lot easier if the press is bolted down securely. I still think using a bearing block rather than a thrust bearing would make it easier. I just show the thrust bearing cause it was cheaper at the time I built mine so that's what I used.

2. The fingers can be in the way depending on where the lobes of your cam/cams are. With my LX, the finger crosses right where the lobes are so it can be a little more work to get the string or cable off, but it's really not that bad.


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## ILOVE3D

*Press*

Hey Gunner and Lc, on another post about a press like yours they used the press to not only press the bow but draw it as well. What am I missing here, I thought with the thrust bearing you could only press a bow. Looks like when you try to force the ends apart the threaded rod will just push out on the handle side? Here is the thread that shows drawing the bow as well. Thanks again, these are awesome presses thanks to all of your guys help.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1160766&highlight=press+plans


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## ILOVE3D

*Press*

Never mind, I went back and read his thread and here is how he did it.

Hand wheel- tapped for 3/4" #6 acme thread, 2 piece collar, thrust race, thrust bearing, thrust race, 3/4 bushing, thrust race, thrust bearing, thrust race and then another 2 piece collar.

With the extra thrust bearing inside the main tube with another locking collar. This is great, now you could use like a hooter shooter if you could just aim it. The second cup of coffee helped. :darkbeer:


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## Gunner7800

ILOVE3D said:


> Never mind, I went back and read his thread and here is how he did it.
> 
> Hand wheel- tapped for 3/4" #6 acme thread, 2 piece collar, thrust race, thrust bearing, thrust race, 3/4 bushing, thrust race, thrust bearing, thrust race and then another 2 piece collar.
> 
> With the extra thrust bearing inside the main tube with another locking collar. This is great, now you could use like a hooter shooter if you could just aim it. The second cup of coffee helped. :darkbeer:


And if you look on the last page of the plans I posted, the exploded view, you can see the order of assembly for the bearings and collars. Works pretty slick.


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## ILOVE3D

*press*

Thanks again Gunner, I didn't look close enough and notice there was a 2nd page which showed it. I got the acme nuts, collars and thrust bearings delivered today from McMasters, they didn't waste any time. The 1 3/4 tubing won't ship for 2 weeks though. Its going to be hard waiting. I will have everything else cut and welded and it will also give me enough time to go back and re=read everything.


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## OzArcher1

It would be good to see drawings (and parts list) as detailed as these for a string Jig:thumbs_up:smile:


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## Gunner7800

OzArcher1 said:


> It would be good to see drawings (and parts list) as detailed as these for a string Jig:thumbs_up:smile:


WWWWAAAAYYYY ahead of ya.:wink: 

Think I have the model done, now I just have to build it to see if it works.

I think I could make it better if I could get my hands on an existing tensioner so I could actually see the operation rather than just guessing and hoping it works.

The only question I have as far as parts is pipe size. Does anybody know how readily available 1.5" ID pipe is?


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## sean7559

its avalable at any plumbing supply in black , gal, copper etc standerd size in home pluming thats very big pipe though you could use the larger kindorf which is just as stong avail at home depot and there are plenty of ass. availble to make a jig with its half the cost lighter and has more options


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## Gunner7800

sean7559 said:


> its avalable at any plumbing supply in black , gal, copper etc standerd size in home pluming thats very big pipe though you could use the larger kindorf which is just as stong avail at home depot and there are plenty of ass. availble to make a jig with its half the cost lighter and has more options


Good deal. I ordered my parts yesterday, hopefully they'll be here before the end of the week. Then all I need to do is go get some pipe and start cutting and fitting. I won't have access to a welder for a couple weeks, so if I can get everything ready it should go pretty quick. 

I plan on taking pictures while I assemble. So hopefully in a couple weeks I be able to start a new thread with a string jig!!!


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## ILOVE3D

*Press*

Hey Gunner, I'm still waiting on my 1 3/4 tubing but looking at my parts, the collar is 1 1/2" but the allen head locking screws stick out almost 1/8 of an inch. Doesn't this extra catch on the inside of the 1 3/4" tubing. Or did you not use this collar? I got the one from the list, part 6436K16.


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## Gunner7800

ILOVE3D said:


> Hey Gunner, I'm still waiting on my 1 3/4 tubing but looking at my parts, the collar is 1 1/2" but the allen head locking screws stick out almost 1/8 of an inch. Doesn't this extra catch on the inside of the 1 3/4" tubing. Or did you not use this collar? I got the one from the list, part 6436K16.


When you tighten the collar down on the rod, the bolt heads should be flush with the outside of the collar. If not, do a little grinding or line up the bolt heads so they will be toward a corner of the tubing.


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## ILOVE3D

*press*

If I line up the heads with the corner, wouldn't it bind when I turn the handle which in turn rotates the acme rod that this collar is attached to? It looks like if I grind off enough to clear I will be grinding part of the slot where the allen wrench connects. I will just have to wait to get my 1 3/4" tubing to check it out. You have one that works don't you? If so, mine should work cause I ordered the same parts by number.


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## Gunner7800

ILOVE3D said:


> If I line up the heads with the corner, wouldn't it bind when I turn the handle which in turn rotates the acme rod that this collar is attached to? It looks like if I grind off enough to clear I will be grinding part of the slot where the allen wrench connects. I will just have to wait to get my 1 3/4" tubing to check it out. You have one that works don't you? If so, mine should work cause I ordered the same parts by number.


Should work just fine.


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## lc12

ILOVE3D said:


> If I line up the heads with the corner, wouldn't it bind when I turn the handle which in turn rotates the acme rod that this collar is attached to? It looks like if I grind off enough to clear I will be grinding part of the slot where the allen wrench connects. I will just have to wait to get my 1 3/4" tubing to check it out. You have one that works don't you? If so, mine should work cause I ordered the same parts by number.


The screw should sit flush or slightly countersunk when installed! If not you can do as Gunner suggested, but grind the side that sits on top of the ACME rod. You can also mark the location where the screw touches the ACME rod and take a file and grind, or drill, the threaded rod so that the screw sits flush.
*TIP:* If you do the above be sure to put a nut onto the rod and run it PAST where you will be altering the threads. Then afterwards back the nut back off of the rod and install your collar. The reason for this is to clean up your threads on the rod in case you ever have to run a nut through that spot in the future. :darkbeer:


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## ILOVE3D

*Press*

Lc, were talking apples and oranges. The collars I have are in two pieces with an allen head screw on each side ot the split connecting the two halves. There is no set screw and only the inside of the collar touches the acme rod. I will just have to wait to get my 1 3/4 tubing to work with it.


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## ILOVE3D

*press*

Here is a photo of my collar tightened down on acme rod. Hope the upload works.


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## Gunner7800

It should work just fine. I am able to operate my press without any problems of the collar hitting. The outside diameter of the collar, including the allen heads should be 1.5". 

If you find you have troubles with it, figure out the location where the collar needs to be and tighten down the allen heads. Once the collar placement set, grind the heads down a little at a time till it fits. When collar is set in the correct spot, you should not have to move it, so doesn't matter if a bit of the cap screw head is ground off.


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## lc12

ILOVE3D said:


> Lc, were talking apples and oranges. The collars I have are in two pieces with an allen head screw on each side ot the split connecting the two halves. There is no set screw and only the inside of the collar touches the acme rod. I will just have to wait to get my 1 3/4 tubing to work with it.


You are correct and I apologize! We were talking Apples (yours) and Oranges (mine)!
I bought my lock collar at Sears and it had only ONE set screw that was flush when installed. SORRY! 
It still looks like it should work OK though!
I do know some that did as Gunner suggested and after loc-titing the screws they ground them down just a bit. They said they could still get a bite on the screw head with a hex bit. Unless something major would happen to your press you should not have to remove the rod after it is installed!!!


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## gr8brew

This post rocks


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## cross05

Are you using a smooth collar or a acme threaded collar. The threaded collar seems like it would hold alot better. Does anyone have any trouble using the smooth collars. There is a big cost difference between the 2 smooth is $3 and threaded is $17.


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## lc12

cross05 said:


> Are you using a smooth collar or a acme threaded collar. The threaded collar seems like it would hold alot better. Does anyone have any trouble using the smooth collars. There is a big cost difference between the 2 smooth is $3 and threaded is $17.


As I said above I bought my 3/4 inch collars from Sears for around $2.50 each.
They were the smooth collars with ONE set screw. I used red loctite to secure the screw and ran it between the threads of the ACME rod to make it a bit more secure.
I could not see spending the money for the threaded collars since all they do is act as a stopl


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## cross05

I was planning on using them on the outside of the press in between to bearing and the hand wheel instead of using 2 nuts tightened together. They would be the main load bearing surface for the press. Has anyone tried this and which collar clamp did you use.


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## Gunner7800

cross05 said:


> I was planning on using them on the outside of the press in between to bearing and the hand wheel instead of using 2 nuts tightened together. They would be the main load bearing surface for the press. Has anyone tried this and which collar clamp did you use.


That's the way my press is built. And I am using the smooth collars, works fine for me.


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## cross05

Which type of hand wheel are you using, and how is it attached. I was looking for an acme threaded wheel but am unable to find one. Are you guys using a set screw? I was thinking of cutting a key way, but that seems like too much trouble. Maybe drilling and driving a pin through it. I would like to keep it clean and not have to put a nut on the end.


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## thunderhead

*wheel*



cross05 said:


> Which type of hand wheel are you using, and how is it attached. I was looking for an acme threaded wheel but am unable to find one. Are you guys using a set screw? I was thinking of cutting a key way, but that seems like too much trouble. Maybe drilling and driving a pin through it. I would like to keep it clean and not have to put a nut on the end.


you could use a socket heat set screw and counter sink it, or drill it and use a roll pin.


----------



## Gunner7800

cross05 said:


> Which type of hand wheel are you using, and how is it attached. I was looking for an acme threaded wheel but am unable to find one. Are you guys using a set screw? I was thinking of cutting a key way, but that seems like too much trouble. Maybe drilling and driving a pin through it. I would like to keep it clean and not have to put a nut on the end.


The handwheel I'm using has a set screw and a partial hole in the hub. I also figured where the set screw would contact the acme rod and drilled a small indent in the rod so the set screw would not slip between threads or anything like that.


----------



## ILOVE3D

*Press parts*

Well, after a lot of waiting from McMasters-Carr for my 1 1/2" tubing I cancelled my order. I have received everything else and going to just get a 20' 1 1/2" 1/8 tubing from my local steel shop. It will be half the price of the one 6' nestable from Mc-Carr. Since it just slides inside of the 1 3/4 which I already have I don't need the 1 1/2 to be nestable. It's been a bummer waiting but it was still on backorder today. I also intend on making my 1 3/4 main tube 31" and the 1 1/2 32" like someone else did for the longer bows. How did the longer one work out? Any other suggestions? Thanks again for all your guys help.


----------



## Mr10ss

Ilove3d, I waited a bit and then changed my order to (3) 4' sections instead of (2) 6' sections and mine came in about 3 days. I'm building 2 presses,one for me and one for a friend thats helping me.
Cross05, I found a local machine shop that has a 3/4 6 acme tap and is tapping my handwheel from Grizzly. Then I'm drilling a set screw through the hub to lock it down on the acme thread and add another acme nut to the backside so I can use a drill with a socket to run the press in and out on longer adjustments if I want.


----------



## ILOVE3D

*1 1/2 nestable*

Thanks for the info but I have already purchased a 20' piece of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2 and 1/8" thick tubing from my local steel shop, 21.00 for the whole piece. I wish I would have thought of that earlier. It looks like it will work out just fine since I am not sliding any tubing inside of it.


----------



## Gunner7800

ILOVE3D said:


> Thanks for the info but I have already purchased a 20' piece of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2 and 1/8" thick tubing from my local steel shop, 21.00 for the whole piece. I wish I would have thought of that earlier. It looks like it will work out just fine since I am not sliding any tubing inside of it.


It should work just fine since with the smaller tubing the outside dimensions are really all that matters. And it also depends on what you are putting on the inside of the 1-1/2" tubing, if anything. That weld seam could cause a headache, but it just depends on what you want to stuff in there.


----------



## BROX

Can i use 1/2-10 threaded acme rod for my press? Everything we have here at work collar,bearings all that stuff is for 1/2 size


----------



## ILOVE3D

*Press plans*

I have a friend who is using 3/8" regular threaded rod and works fine so far for occasional home use. I would think that unless you are a shop and going to use it every day, all day the 1/2" would work just fine. If you make it and for some reason you are not happy you can just cut off the front portion of the smaller tube with the 1/2" nut in it and change out to the larger stuff. IMHO


----------



## NockHead/TX

great post


----------



## Gunner7800

ILOVE3D said:


> I have a friend who is using 3/8" regular threaded rod and works fine so far for occasional home use. I would think that unless you are a shop and going to use it every day, all day the 1/2" would work just fine. If you make it and for some reason you are not happy you can just cut off the front portion of the smaller tube with the 1/2" nut in it and change out to the larger stuff. IMHO


I agree.


----------



## neo71665

ILOVE3D said:


> I have a friend who is using 3/8" regular threaded rod and works fine so far for occasional home use. I would think that unless you are a shop and going to use it every day, all day the 1/2" would work just fine. If you make it and for some reason you are not happy you can just cut off the front portion of the smaller tube with the 1/2" nut in it and change out to the larger stuff. IMHO



oh hells bells dont say that. I'm using 1/2 inch rod and when I said I was gonna use it I got my arse chewed.


----------



## BlueRidge

Getting ready to build one of these, where can I get fingers?


----------



## jalopyspeed

get your local machine shop to make some for you, there is a pic of the dimensions somewhere on the site


----------



## Gunner7800

Gunner7800 said:


> Post #9.
> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=885021&highlight=finger+design





jalopyspeed said:


> get your local machine shop to make some for you, there is a pic of the dimensions somewhere on the site


Here is the link.


----------



## BROX

ILOVE3D said:


> I have a friend who is using 3/8" regular threaded rod and works fine so far for occasional home use. I would think that unless you are a shop and going to use it every day, all day the 1/2" would work just fine. If you make it and for some reason you are not happy you can just cut off the front portion of the smaller tube with the 1/2" nut in it and change out to the larger stuff. IMHO


So he's using regular thread instead of acme thread?


----------



## ILOVE3D

*Press plans*

Yes, he is using regular threaded rod. He keeps putting some type of anti seizing lube on it although we only use it probably two or three times a month. I must add though he and I are building two of these together and he is replacing his older one. In the new ones we are using the acme 3/4" rod. I like overkill and am sure it will work easier than his other one. He has to make several turns to press a bow and always wondering if it is going to hold.


----------



## BlueRidge

Getting ready to start cutting steel for assembly and have a couple questions.

Have seen different lengths posted for the main and slider bar. 24" for both and another with 31" main and 33" slider.

What is max axle to axle bow that will fit if both arms are cut 24" ?

What is max axle to axle bow that will fit if main is 31" and slider is 33" ?


The Acme rod is 36", does the "L" end of the slider arm, (opposite the nut end), need to remain open for the rod to extend out of when press is used on short A to A bows? (if not I was going to cut that on 45 and weld closed)


----------



## jayc1471

Thanks guys - just ordered the parts to build a new one. I made one using the drop trailer leg jack and it is not smooth at all, and I press alot of bows.


----------



## Gunner7800

BlueRidge said:


> Getting ready to start cutting steel for assembly and have a couple questions.
> 
> Have seen different lengths posted for the main and slider bar. 24" for both and another with 31" main and 33" slider.
> 
> What is max axle to axle bow that will fit if both arms are cut 24" ?
> 
> What is max axle to axle bow that will fit if main is 31" and slider is 33" ?
> 
> 
> The Acme rod is 36", does the "L" end of the slider arm, (opposite the nut end), need to remain open for the rod to extend out of when press is used on short A to A bows? (if not I was going to cut that on 45 and weld closed)


With the 24" length for each piece I think you can easily press a bow with an axle to axle of about 43" Of course you wouldn't be able to completely relax a bow of that length. I only used 24" for each because the longest a-to-a length I have is just under 37".
As for the ACME rod, I cut mine down. Can't remember how long, maybe 28". All you need to do is "dry fit" all the junk you're going to put on the outside of the tube like the hand wheel, bearings, collars, etc on the end of you ACME rod and see if you would have to cut any off to fit inside of the 45'd elbow. 
Remember to measure twice!!! Haven't figured out a way to lengthen ACME rod without paying for a new piece.


----------



## shaynster

Your plans look great, but I'm having trouble opening the parts list. Is it a word document, if so that's why. I don't have word. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Shayn


----------



## neo71665

shaynster said:


> Your plans look great, but I'm having trouble opening the parts list. Is it a word document, if so that's why. I don't have word. Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks,
> Shayn


Qty McMaster-Carr # Description Price
1 4931T143 1.75" Nestable Square Tubing--6ft $24.75
1 4931T142 1.5" Nestable Square Tubing --6ft $16.74
2 5909K33 Thrust Bearing $2.73
4 5909K46 0.032" Thk Washer for Thrust Bearing	$1.00
2 6436K16 Shaft Collar $4.21
2 94815A109	ACME Hex Nuts $3.09
1 98935A838	General Purpose ACME Threaded Rod--36"	$12.75
1 6033K76 Hand Wheel $25.96




Miscellaneous items such as the 2" tubing, 3/4" pipe, plate steel, bolts/pins, and mounting bases I sourced locally or fabricated myself from scrap.


----------



## shaynster

neo71665 said:


> Qty McMaster-Carr # Description Price
> 1 4931T143 1.75" Nestable Square Tubing--6ft $24.75
> 1 4931T142 1.5" Nestable Square Tubing --6ft $16.74
> 2 5909K33 Thrust Bearing $2.73
> 4 5909K46 0.032" Thk Washer for Thrust Bearing	$1.00
> 2 6436K16 Shaft Collar $4.21
> 2 94815A109	ACME Hex Nuts $3.09
> 1 98935A838	General Purpose ACME Threaded Rod--36"	$12.75
> 1 6033K76 Hand Wheel $25.96
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Miscellaneous items such as the 2" tubing, 3/4" pipe, plate steel, bolts/pins, and mounting bases I sourced locally or fabricated myself from scrap.


*Thank You!*


----------



## buckarcher

Is anyone using plasti dip for the fingers? Wondering how it holds up.


----------



## Gunner7800

buckarcher said:


> Is anyone using plasti dip for the fingers? Wondering how it holds up.


Yup, not doing too bad. But I think I'm going to change that when it does wear out. I did dip my fingers 4 or 5 times though. I think next time around I'm going to wrap the fingers, almost like serving, with heavy string or twine, glue that in place, then plasti-dip them several times. Kinda curious how that would hold up.


----------



## racer102

*tube*

I dipped mine then use a skinny road bicycle tube and slip over fingers fits like a glove


----------



## GREENBALL

*press*

Thank you foor the plans


----------



## harden13

ttt to mark for future use


----------



## Relentless

get this back to the top...in fact can we make it a sticky???????


----------



## ckrich

ttt:set1_signs009:


----------



## BlueRidge

*Finally Finished*

I'd just like to say Thanks to Gunner7800 and everyone else who has contributed to this thread. Your time and effort is appreciated.


----------



## Gunner7800

BlueRidge said:


> I'd just like to say Thanks to Gunner7800 and everyone else who has contributed to this thread. Your time and effort is appreciated.


VERY NICE!! Clean, simple and functional, and it looks like you have some fabrication skills.:darkbeer:


----------



## Gunner7800

Bump---just cause I want to see if 10,000 people will look at this thread.


----------



## BowhunterJT

*Longer Fingers*

I'll bump ya for a good thread and to respond to one of the previous questions of a longer finger. My contribution to that question in the attached PDF. :wink:

JT


----------



## BowhunterJT

Try again with the PDF.

JT


----------



## BrownDog2

*Started the press*

I started a press Saturday and I just wish I could finish it. I have to pick up 1/2 steel to cut the fingers out with. I like the way the fingers look on the press that BlueRidge posted. I will try to post more pictures as move along with the press. I plan on removing the the fingers to add other attachments this is what the 3d picture shows. I have cut 1/4 plate to weld into place for end caps. Thanks to all that have helped so far.


----------



## BrownDog2

BlueRidge said:


> I'd just like to say Thanks to Gunner7800 and everyone else who has contributed to this thread. Your time and effort is appreciated.


Does anyone have the plans to this style "coat hooks"?


----------



## Gunner7800

BrownDog2 said:


> Does anyone have the plans to this style "coat hooks"?


Here is a link to a drawing for similar fingers.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1054264717&postcount=9


----------



## BrownDog2

I have a question and maybe I overlooked it somewhere. When the threaded rod runs through the end that the wheel is on, what stops the threads from catching on the plate? You have thrust bearings on each side but that doesn’t stop the rod from rubbing. This is a picture I found on AT.


----------



## BlueRidge

BrownDog2 said:


> I have a question and maybe I overlooked it somewhere. When the threaded rod runs through the end that the wheel is on, what stops the threads from catching on the plate? You have thrust bearings on each side but that doesn’t stop the rod from rubbing. This is a picture I found on AT.


I put a flanged bronze bushing through the plate. 3/4 ID, 1" OD, 3/4 long. About $1.50 from McMaster. You can see the flange in the pics above, it is painted.


----------



## Gunner7800

BrownDog2 said:


> I have a question and maybe I overlooked it somewhere. When the threaded rod runs through the end that the wheel is on, what stops the threads from catching on the plate? You have thrust bearings on each side but that doesn’t stop the rod from rubbing. This is a picture I found on AT.





BlueRidge said:


> I put a flanged bronze bushing through the plate. 3/4 ID, 1" OD, 3/4 long. About $1.50 from McMaster. You can see the flange in the pics above, it is painted.


+1, I think they may also sell something similar at ACE Hardware. Otherwise you could just use a thicker piece of flat iron on the end. Mine is 1/4" thick, all you need is something that is just thicker than the groove in the threads.


----------



## giddi1820

Just wanted to let everyone know if you order your steel in 8ft lengths they will ship in 2-3 days. Ordered mine last Thursday and it was here yesterday. Will post some pics when done. Another thought could use 5/8 or 3/4 all thread? Should be plenty strong enough.


----------



## lc12

BrownDog2 said:


> I have a question and maybe I overlooked it somewhere. When the threaded rod runs through the end that the wheel is on, what stops the threads from catching on the plate? You have thrust bearings on each side but that doesn’t stop the rod from rubbing. This is a picture I found on AT.


I used a "flanged bearing" on the outside of the tube's plate, with an oversized hole drilled in the plate. This keeps the rod from rubbing.


----------



## lc12

Gunner7800 said:


> Bump---just cause I want to see if 10,000 people will look at this thread.


Hey Gunner! I just noticed that you EXCEEDED 10,000 views!
CONGRATS ON AN EXCELLENT THREAD!


----------



## spud69

Thanks for the plans i'm putting together some for an x press


----------



## giddi1820

ILOVE3D said:


> Well, after a lot of waiting from McMasters-Carr for my 1 1/2" tubing I cancelled my order. I have received everything else and going to just get a 20' 1 1/2" 1/8 tubing from my local steel shop. It will be half the price of the one 6' nestable from Mc-Carr. Since it just slides inside of the 1 3/4 which I already have I don't need the 1 1/2 to be nestable. It's been a bummer waiting but it was still on backorder today. I also intend on making my 1 3/4 main tube 31" and the 1 1/2 32" like someone else did for the longer bows. How did the longer one work out? Any other suggestions? Thanks again for all your guys help.


For those of you buying from 8' sections ship from mcmaster carr same day as ordered. Had my stuff in 2 days.


----------



## Gunner7800

lc12 said:


> Hey Gunner! I just noticed that you EXCEEDED 10,000 views!
> CONGRATS ON AN EXCELLENT THREAD!


I'm really surprised that many people have looked at it. Hope everybody gets some helpful info.:darkbeer:



spud69 said:


> Thanks for the plans i'm putting together some for an x press


Glad to help, I actually ran across a set of plans I made for an X-press. That's the first press I built, might make another since my first attempt didn't turn out as well as I had hoped. It's still functional, just not as pretty as I would like.


----------



## The G

hey gunner thxs a lot for the great read.
I am ordering stuff for my press


----------



## Gunner7800

Glad to help.

I wonder if McMaster could give me some sort of "gift" for all the orders that have been placed? If somebody from McMaster is reading, I'll take the stuff I need to make another press :thumb: jk


----------



## giddi1820

Gunner7800 said:


> Glad to help.
> 
> I wonder if McMaster could give me some sort of "gift" for all the orders that have been placed? If somebody from McMaster is reading, I'll take the stuff I need to make another press :thumb: jk


Now thats funny right there, I don't care who you are that's funny!


----------



## cicero

Just ordered my parts from McMaster and got fingers being cut!!! I am looking forward to this build!!!


----------



## BrownDog2

*Press is finished!*

First thanks to everyone for answering all of my questions. I could not have done this without the people of AT. I have use a little bit of every ones ideas and then put a twist of some of them. Some parts of this are a serious overkill, but I wanted to experiment with some of my ideas. On the slider tube the nut is encased in a “box” so the nut floats and will not bind if everything is not aligned. The press stand is built so that you can turn the bow 360 degrees. I also made the fingers so I can remove them. I plan on adding a draw board to this also.


----------



## The G

BrownDog2 said:


> First thanks to everyone for answering all of my questions. I could not have done this without the people of AT. I have use a little bit of every ones ideas and then put a twist of some of them. Some parts of this are a serious overkill, but I wanted to experiment with some of my ideas. On the slider tube the nut is encased in a “box” so the nut floats and will not bind if everything is not aligned. The press stand is built so that you can turn the bow 360 degrees. I also made the fingers so I can remove them. I plan on adding a draw board to this also.


Nice job!


----------



## giddi1820

I just finished my press!!! It works great, I did have a minor issue with fingers, (tried to make a new design). Thanks gunner and everyone else who has contributed to this thread.


----------



## Gunner7800

giddi1820 said:


> I just finished my press!!! It works great, I did have a minor issue with fingers, (tried to make a new design). Thanks gunner and everyone else who has contributed to this thread.


Lets see some pics!!


----------



## giddi1820

Gunner7800 said:


> Lets see some pics!!


Just finishing some odds and ends plus paint and I'll post pics. Thanks again for the plans. Let's keep this thread up top!


----------



## gunnerdk

Press is finished and it works better than expected.. Thanks to Gunner and everyone else on this thread. As soon as she gets paint i will post some pics!


----------



## The G

mine is getting welded together tonight


----------



## The G

got her done cept for the paint (tomorrow).
came out great thanks a lot Gunner


----------



## kpcoupe

this thread is great!!!


----------



## Gunner7800

Pictures damn it pictures!!! lol

Glad everybody is getting some useful information from this thread. Still waiting to hear from somebody at McMaster about my present for all the orders they've received.:teeth:


----------



## The G

hey gunner shoot me your email if u want to see the picts of the press.
the pic is to big to throw on AT


----------



## broomebuck

this thread is great i gatherd all my parts but the press is going to have to wait i have to build the garage and install my new furnace first or the boss will kill me


----------



## cruss

The G said:


> hey gunner shoot me your email if u want to see the picts of the press.
> the pic is to big to throw on AT


Hey G,
How did your press turn out after the paint?


----------



## Foilestraitmeat

Will these plans press a bow with a 26 1/2" ATA? If not what should be the lengths of the rod, main tube, and slider tube?


----------



## Gunner7800

Foilestraitmeat said:


> Will these plans press a bow with a 26 1/2" ATA? If not what should be the lengths of the rod, main tube, and slider tube?


Using the lengths given it should work for your length. It would go down to about 21-22"


----------



## The G

cruss said:


> Hey G,
> How did your press turn out after the paint?


Great!
tys for asking..


----------



## deadeye1001

I had some fingers priced... they quoted me $160 for a set. I think I will have to figure something else out... Any suggestions?


----------



## The G

yeah buy them off of cruss.
hey made me four fingers for 24$tmd
I had to break the edges and drill and tap the adjustment holes, but they are very very good fingers.


----------



## gunnerdk

My press is finally complete!!!


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello All
First off, i tip my :set1_CHAPLIN3: to you Gunner7800. For a out standing thread .
And to your untiring nature, to help others. A true archer helping your fellow archer. :icon_salut:


==============

Since cooler weather is approaching. I have need for something to build, to keep this old man alive.
So with your out standing plans. It should make my task easier.

Your Quote =That's where the 'ol bean kicks in 
My 'ol bean is only directing me, only to the arms.To utilize there open ends.

1st , with a removal finger base, mounted on box tubing.,with two lock nob.studs in one side.

2nd add a 1/2" thick square to the end of each arm. With a 3/4" threaded hole. To receive. a 1/2 inch bolt with its head removed..And a rubber piece of air hose added., to each bolt. Now use, will be for a draw board, or other, like resting the bow for serving and so on..

3rd, 2 removal box tubing bow and trigger bases. For a shooting machine.

Again i tip my :set1_CHAPLIN3: to you. [ Later


----------



## Gunner7800

gunnerdk said:


> My press is finally complete!!!


Very nice!!!! This farm boy loves that John Deere green. Can't go wrong there.



Unk Bond said:


> Hello All
> First off, i tip my :set1_CHAPLIN3: to you Gunner7800. For a out standing thread .
> And to your untiring nature, to help others. A true archer helping your fellow archer. :icon_salut:
> 
> 
> ==============
> 
> Since cooler weather is approaching. I have need for something to build, to keep this old man alive.
> So with your out standing plans. It should make my task easier.
> 
> Your Quote =That's where the 'ol bean kicks in
> My 'ol bean is only directing me, only to the arms.To utilize there open ends.
> 
> 1st , with a removal finger base, mounted on box tubing.,with two lock nob.studs in one side.
> 
> 2nd add a 1/2" thick square to the end of each arm. With a 3/4" threaded hole. To receive. a 1/2 inch bolt with its head removed..And a rubber piece of air hose added., to each bolt. Now use, will be for a draw board, or other, like resting the bow for serving and so on..
> 
> 3rd, 2 removal box tubing bow and trigger bases. For a shooting machine.
> 
> Again i tip my :set1_CHAPLIN3: to you. [ Later


Thanks UNK. I should have put quotes around the "'ol bean", pretty sure that came from reading some of your threads.

I have had some pm's with people talking about draw board adaptations. With the dimensions that are on the plans now, I don't know if you would have enough length to use this as a draw board. I've found myself second guessing what lengths should be used for the body and extension arms. One discussion I've had was just making some inserts to inside the arms. I guess that way you would only be limited in the use of the press to what you could make for inserts.

Lately I've been too busy to put this sort of stuff into CAD. I think I will have some time pretty soon. 

On my press now I do have the square tubing with the finger base welded to it. That way my entire finger assembly comes off. But, when I made that I did not have any extra tubing that fit properly, so there is some slop there, still functional though.

I also have started working on a set of plans that has a quick extension arm. That way you would only have to turn the press out a couple inches, then adjust the length of the press by removing a pin, sliding the arm in/out to fit your bow, put the pin back in and press.


----------



## axeforce6

Hey gunner great design my friend, i'm so ready to get out of my anatomy class and build one of these... i wonder how much money you've saved these guys. only problem is, what color should i make her... Thanks man. really!


----------



## The G

spent around 100$ total for mine.
I think they go for around 560$ new (EZ press)
sure mine is not as good as the EX but it is farten good


----------



## Gunner7800

axeforce6 said:


> Hey gunner great design my friend, i'm so ready to get out of my anatomy class and build one of these... i wonder how much money you've saved these guys. only problem is, what color should i make her... Thanks man. really!


Not a problem. 
Still think I'd like to see a nice shiney chrome one. Or maybe mossy oak brush.



The G said:


> spent around 100$ total for mine.
> I think they go for around 560$ new (EZ press)
> sure mine is not as good as the EX but it is farten good


I've been messing around with the drawing for the extendable press I mentioned in the reply to UNK. So far the total price for that one is around $125 ordering everything from McMaster. Minus a couple miscellaneous pieces and the coat hooks of course.


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello All

??? :set1_thinking:
The ACME threaded rod is 36"

? what lengths of tubing. One might use,with out cutting the threaded rod. 

? Would it be about 31" to 33" [ Later

2nd ? What length of 1 1/2" would be safe left inside the 1 3/4 " main box tubing.To cause no damage [ Later


----------



## The G

yeah unk you if you do 1 1/2 inside the 1 3/4" the biggest gauge you can have is 14 (where they still fit inside one another).
that would more then suffice.
I did my press with 1 1/2 and a bulked up 1 1/4" tubing and I have no problems.
I would have went with the 1 3/4" but nobody around here carries it.
make sure you can get it before you buy everything to match that size.
have a good one, tys a lot Gunner.
The G


----------



## BowhunterJT

Unk Bond said:


> Hello All
> 
> ??? :set1_thinking:
> The ACME threaded rod is 36"
> 
> ? what lengths of tubing. One might use,with out cutting the threaded rod.
> 
> ? Would it be about 31" to 33" [ Later
> 
> 2nd ? What length of 1 1/2" would be safe left inside the 1 3/4 " main box tubing.To cause no damage [ Later




I use 2" male tube steel with the female at 2 1/4". The amount of bearing that still works efficiently for me without starting to bind is 3" left inside.

JT


----------



## Gunner7800

This is what I've been working on with my 20 minutes of free time.:smile:

View attachment Extendable_Press.pdf


----------



## gunnerdk

We considered making an extend able arm but we ended up with 25" to 49" with 4 inches left in the tube. We thought that would be ok for most applications.


----------



## Unk Bond

BowhunterJT said:


> I use 2" male tube steel with the female at 2 1/4". The amount of bearing that still works efficiently for me without starting to bind is 3" left inside.
> 
> JT



============================
Hello All and thanks

:set1_thinking: out loud. and using the drawing material and design.And just adding a,

1. 2 1/2 inch piece of box tubing in length. To go over the 1 3/4 inch box tubing main.
2. 1/2 inch hole drilled in one side center to center. 
3. 1/2 inch nut welded over hole. 
4. 1/2 inch threaded bolt. 8 inches long with head cut off.Rubber hose covering. 

Place this over your 1 3/4 inch box tubing to slide . Close to where the 1 1/2 inch box tubing inters, the 1 3/4 in box tubing. 

-------------------------- 

This will look some what like one of your cross member arms.

--------------------------

I have found with my draw board or my shooting machine. One needs to be-able, to reduce his intake arm and receiver down to about 8 inches. To be-able to connect to the D loop.

---------------
:set1_thinking: out loud again. 31 inch 1 1/2 to a 33 inch 1 3/4 box tubing.
Lets say the archers draw is 31 inches.

Now leaving the 1 1/2 box tubing 5 inches inside the 1 3/4, leaves 26 inches sticking out. Moving the 2 1/2 inch box tubing collar down to 5 inches from the end of the 1 3/4 box tubing.
We now have 31 inches for ones longest draw. Now cranking the 1 1/2 box tubing in.
Say to 3 inches sticking out.. 3 + 5 = 8 inches to hook to the D loop.

Guy the use for this box tubing collar. Is used, just for the draw board and a shooting machine, Where less pressure is needed to draw the bow. 
The existing arm for pressing the bow stays as is. [ Later.


Feel free here, to keep me straight here on my :set1_thinking: :wink:


----------



## GregG

Could someone post a picture of the crank end. How does the thrust bearing, thrust bearing washer etc. go together.


----------



## Unk Bond

GregG said:


> Could someone post a picture of the crank end. How does the thrust bearing, thrust bearing washer etc. go together.


Hello view post 21 [ Later


----------



## Gunner7800

Here is a quick detail of the assembly.

View attachment ASSEMBLY.pdf


----------



## Gunner7800

Just cause I need to C.M.A. 

I claim no responsibility for any damage to person or personal property caused by the use of a press built completely or partially from these plans.:smile:


----------



## GregG

Gunner that is what I wanted. Thanks


----------



## GregG

gunner your post 151 uses thrust washers and bearing. Is that in place of the flanged bearing mount.


----------



## Gunner7800

GregG said:


> gunner your post 151 uses thrust washers and bearing. Is that in place of the flanged bearing mount.


Yes, the thrust bearing is cheaper and easier, which is what I have on my press. But from what other people have said the flange bearing works great and makes for smooth and easy operation. Whenever I make another press I'm most likely going to switch to a flange bearing.


----------



## GregG

Thanks gunner


----------



## GregG

gunner hate to be a pain. Do you have a cad drawing of the flange bearing setup. Like in your post #151.


----------



## TN ARCHER

Just wondering what some of you guys were making your press out of. Regular tubing or "nestable" tubing?

I went by a metal wholesale place and the best fit I could get was with 1 3/4 .083 wall and 1 1/2 .125 wall. With these two sizes I still didn't like the amount of "play" left inside. I had to leave 8-10" of the 1 1/2 inside of the 1 3/4 to cut down on the "play" to what one could deem tolerable. I am going to have to have my press extend over 50" in order to take down long a.t.a. bows. 

Will the "nestable" tubing fit tighter?


----------



## Unk Bond

Gunner7800 said:


> Yes, the thrust bearing is cheaper and easier, which is what I have on my press. But from what other people have said the flange bearing works great and makes for smooth and easy operation. Whenever I make another press I'm most likely going to switch to a flange bearing.



---------------------------------
Quote = I'm most likely going to switch to a flange bearing. 

I looked in McMaster Catalog for a flange bearing. Couldn't find the square flange bearing . One, thats needed. ? Would any one have a source, and part number.[ Thanks


----------



## Gunner7800

GregG said:


> gunner hate to be a pain. Do you have a cad drawing of the flange bearing setup. Like in your post #151.


It's exactly the same as the drawing I posted of the handle end of the press. The only difference is that you would cut a piece of flat iron to the size of the bearing flange and mount that on the end of the main body tube instead of the piece that is cut to fit the tube. Then you would replace the thrust bearing with the flange bearing.



TN ARCHER said:


> Just wondering what some of you guys were making your press out of. Regular tubing or "nestable" tubing?
> 
> I went by a metal wholesale place and the best fit I could get was with 1 3/4 .083 wall and 1 1/2 .125 wall. With these two sizes I still didn't like the amount of "play" left inside. I had to leave 8-10" of the 1 1/2 inside of the 1 3/4 to cut down on the "play" to what one could deem tolerable. I am going to have to have my press extend over 50" in order to take down long a.t.a. bows.
> 
> Will the "nestable" tubing fit tighter?


Yes, nestable fits much tighter. It has a wall thickness of .105". 



Unk Bond said:


> ---------------------------------
> Quote = I'm most likely going to switch to a flange bearing.
> 
> I looked in McMaster Catalog for a flange bearing. Couldn't find the square flange bearing . One, thats needed. ? Would any one have a source, and part number.[ Thanks


Here is a link to one that I found and thought would work:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#mounted-bearings/=92mzl9
It's part number 6494K32. There is also one listed from Enco in the parts list posted on page 1 of this thread. I think it's list v1.2.


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello All
Thanks Gunner.
My bad, i missed it. :embara:


----------



## Gunner7800

Unk Bond said:


> Hello All
> Thanks Gunner.
> My bad, i missed it. :embara:


No worries Unk.


----------



## dogrunner

Unk Bond said:


> ---------------------------------
> Quote = I'm most likely going to switch to a flange bearing.
> 
> I looked in McMaster Catalog for a flange bearing. Couldn't find the square flange bearing . One, thats needed. ? Would any one have a source, and part number.[ Thanks


ebay


----------



## Gunner7800

Here is a quick and dirty set of plans for a linear press with a quick adjust arm. I HAVE NOT BUILT ONE OF THESE, THEREFORE I DO NOT KNOW IF THE LENGTHS GIVEN WILL WORK PROPERLY.

View attachment Extendable_Press1.pdf


----------



## cruss

Hey Gunner,

Thanks for the plans! I whipped out one of these presses in about 45 minutes from start to finish. Very easy to understand and all dimensions are there! No figuring on my part! Parts list was SPOT ON!


----------



## Mbmadness

Will this press work on PSE bows ? I am getting ready to get my step dad to build one . Thanx for any help .


----------



## GregG

I am working on the finger bases. My fingers are the same as post#9. I know people are using 1/2" plate and I need a 1/2" hole. What is the location of the 1/2" hole.


----------



## GregG

How much of a gap do I need from bottom of fingers to support arm.


----------



## Gunner7800

GregG said:


> I am working on the finger bases. My fingers are the same as post#9. I know people are using 1/2" plate and I need a 1/2" hole. What is the location of the 1/2" hole.


If you hold the piece you are making for the finger base next to one of the fingers, aling the "front" of them (the side that will face the bow while it is in the press) that is an easy gauge for how far "back" to make the hole. As far as how "high" to make it (this will hopefully answer the next question as well) align the "bottom" of the finger and the base, then move the base "down" maybe 1/16"-1/8".

Clear as mud, right?



GregG said:


> How much of a gap do I need from bottom of fingers to support arm.


----------



## GregG

Gunner that's the way I thought it was done, just wanted to make sure. Thanks again.


----------



## Trilithon

GregG said:


> Gunner that's the way I thought it was done, just wanted to make sure. Thanks again.


Tried to reply to your PM, but it said your mailbox full. Gunner explained it well though.


----------



## Crusher

I have been watching the plans for the press fingers and I know many people are using them, but I have concerns about the "fixed position" of the top of the fingers people are currently using. Personally, I don't like fingers being in contact with only the corner edges of the limbs on most of the bows. I came up with a design of an articulating finger that will automatically adjust to the angle of the limbs when in the press and be in contact with only the flat surfaces of the limbs instead of the corners..... The adjustable fingers are "L" shape pieces that are pinned inside a groove in top of the finger. I don't know if my drawings get the point across or not....what do you think for those who are building/using the fixed style fingers?


----------



## Crusher

I don't weld, but I am going to have a friend try to build me a press with these fingers and see how it works. I just don't know when I will be able to get to it.


----------



## BowhunterJT

Crusher said:


> I have been watching the plans for the press fingers and I know many people are using them, but I have concerns about the "fixed position" of the top of the fingers people are currently using. Personally, I don't like fingers being in contact with only the corner edges of the limbs on most of the bows. I came up with a design of an articulating finger that will automatically adjust to the angle of the limbs when in the press and be in contact with only the flat surfaces of the limbs instead of the corners..... The adjustable fingers are "L" shape pieces that are pinned inside a groove in top of the finger. I don't know if my drawings get the point across or not....what do you think for those who are building/using the fixed style fingers?





First, let me say that is a nice idea, I like it a lot. :thumbs_up Second, unless you have a lot of money or a very good fabricator with some spare time that is not necessary. there is nothing wrong with the fixed fingers coming into contact with the limb tips. I use mine on lots of different bows with no issues. This design of press/fingers is the only one that ALL of the bow manufactures recommend. You just have to make sure and either tool dip or some other type of barrier between the steel fingers and the composite limbs.

JT


----------



## Crusher

I just don't like to have all that pressure on a the corner of limb tips. I would rather spread it out along the end surface and side surface of the limbs.


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello
Interesting concept.
Another interesting concept. Is they could be called or labeled, something other than fingers, since they have 2 working parts. :wink:


----------



## Gunner7800

Crusher said:


> I have been watching the plans for the press fingers and I know many people are using them, but I have concerns about the "fixed position" of the top of the fingers people are currently using. Personally, I don't like fingers being in contact with only the corner edges of the limbs on most of the bows. I came up with a design of an articulating finger that will automatically adjust to the angle of the limbs when in the press and be in contact with only the flat surfaces of the limbs instead of the corners..... The adjustable fingers are "L" shape pieces that are pinned inside a groove in top of the finger. I don't know if my drawings get the point across or not....what do you think for those who are building/using the fixed style fingers?


I like the idea of spreading the force across the entire tip of the limb, but the design you're showing kinda makes me nervous. I think there would have to be some sort of a stop for the L shaped finger tips. If they could rotate completely around the tip of the finger I would think there would be a higher chance for the bow to spring out if it were bumped while pressed. If you could fix the L bracket to the finger at an angle then I think it would work better. I just like the idea of something being "over" the limp tip like the hook of the finger to keep it from springing out of the press. 

Or maybe if it were a C bracket where you could actually slide the limb tip into the bracket? I think that would work pretty darn well and still have some sort of redundancy for safety.

Of course I'm not an engineer or designer either. I'm just a schmuck that has access to CAD.


----------



## Crusher

I see what you are saying, but the more parallel a bow is, the less likely it will come out of the "L" Bracket. If the bow were pressed, the limbs would have to be compressed another 1/2" or more by being bumped to come out of the top of the "L". That would be nearly impossible. 

Also, the contact of the flat surface of the "L" would automatically angle to the outside of the limb and prevent the entire "L" from rotating at a different angle from the limb. Where I have the "blue arrows" on the diagram, that will always be flush with the limb because of the pressure of the limbs. This will force the "L" to be the same angle as the outside of the limbs and therefore the bow can't rotate out of the "L" Bracket.


The left picture represents a more parallel limb bow and the right picture representing a less parallel limb bow. The "L" bracket will always search and maintain the same angle as the limbs. Even as it is being pressed, the "L" will be adjusted automatically as the angle of the limbs change. At least that is my thinking. With the amount of pressure the limbs and "L" are under, I can't imagine them being able to move at different angles.


----------



## Crusher

I am thinking that because of the horizontal force of the limbs, this scenario would be impossible....the limb coming out of the "L". As Force is applied, the pressure on the pivot point (Blue Arrow) would force the top the the "L" (Brown Arrow) to be flush with the limb and again, continually seeking the same angle as the limb. I am no engineer, so maybe I am mistaken.


----------



## Gunner7800

Crusher said:


> I see what you are saying, but the more parallel a bow is, the less likely it will come out of the "L" Bracket. If the bow were pressed, the limbs would have to be compressed another 1/2" or more by being bumped to come out of the top of the "L". That would be nearly impossible.
> 
> Also, the contact of the flat surface of the "L" would automatically angle to the outside of the limb and prevent the entire "L" from rotating at a different angle from the limb. Where I have the "blue arrows" on the diagram, that will always be flush with the limb because of the pressure of the limbs. This will force the "L" to be the same angle as the outside of the limbs and therefore the bow can't rotate out of the "L" Bracket.
> 
> 
> The left picture represents a more parallel limb bow and the right picture representing a less parallel limb bow. The "L" bracket will always search and maintain the same angle as the limbs. Even as it is being pressed, the "L" will be adjusted automatically as the angle of the limbs change. At least that is my thinking. With the amount of pressure the limbs and "L" are under, I can't imagine them being able to move at different angles.


Yup, I get how the bracket would hold against the limb. But when you let the press out more, like you are relaxing the bow. That opens up the bracket and it seems like it would be much easier to "pop" out. And if the very tip of the limb doesn't hold well to the bracket it could slide out easily too. Looking at the diagrams it seems like these tips would work best for the "beyond parallel" bows.

I really think if you were to add a piece to the top of the L, even if it's just 1/8", that would add an extra level of comfort for me just to keep the limb from ever sliding out. It would be a piece of cake to get a bow in the press too. Just slide the limb tips in the bracket and wa-la, you're ready to press.

But, thinking about it again. There could be two configurations for bows like the Mathews that have the string dampener near the limb tips. The side of the limb that has the dampener can have the L bracket, the other side can have the C bracket.

I don't know, it may be just one of those things that has to be tried to see how well it works. I think you're definitily on to something good, just want to eliminate as many variables of something going wrong as possible.


----------



## Crusher

Gunner7800 said:


> I don't know, it may be just one of those things that has to be tried to see how well it works. I think you're definitily on to something good, just want to eliminate as many variables of something going wrong as possible.



Thats why I am asking...getting advice. Thanks for the help! 

Now, if I can get it from planning to building stage, I will put up some pics and review.


----------



## GregG

Just finished press yesterday thanks for every ones help.


----------



## teambringit2

*Fingers*

Here are some fingers that we made for a gentleman on here for his press. I hope this helps you folks that need ideas. They are made out of 1/2" A-36 steel. I would think they would need something on them to keep from scratching your bow, but this is what he asked me to draw for him.


----------



## Unk Bond

teambringit2 said:


> Here are some fingers that we made for a gentleman on here for his press. I hope this helps you folks that need ideas. They are made out of 1/2" A-36 steel. I would think they would need something on them to keep from scratching your bow, but this is what he asked me to draw for him.


Hello
Was these cut with a lazier [ Later


----------



## dogrunner

heres mine thanks for the plans and the parts list


----------



## Top30Archery

Dont know if anyone has ask but how much does it cost to build the linear press?


----------



## dogrunner

i got about $125.00 in mine


----------



## GregG

Here are some pictures of my finished press/draw board thanks for the help.


----------



## cruss

Greg, that is sweet! Love the color!


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello Greg
Very nice
Greg where did you buy your square bearing plate.
Suggestion ] Greg on your draw board. You might want to consider a turn buckle in line with your hook up .For minute timing adjustments.[ Later


----------



## GregG

Unk Bond you do not need turn buckle with bearing plate. I use the rope crank to draw bow back to almost hitting draw stops. Then I use the crank on the acme screw to fine tune adjustments. As for the square bearing plate I bought at a local bearing company.


----------



## dogrunner

where did you get your winch? nice looking press


----------



## GregG

Winch from Tractor Supply. Thanks


----------



## 138104

Greg, very nice press! You wanna build me one?


----------



## pacnate

ttt


----------



## Gunner7800

dogrunner said:


> heres mine thanks for the plans and the parts list





GregG said:


> Here are some pictures of my finished press/draw board thanks for the help.



Nice looking presses guys.:thumbs_up:darkbeer:


----------



## Top30Archery

If anyone on here is intrested in building me a press like these please shoot me a PM. I am intrested in getting one but dont have the time to go out and get all the supplies... I know I will be paying for time and shipping so shoot me a quote and your ideas if intrested. And I can put it together after its been built and taken apart and shipped. Thanks T30A


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello all
Hey guys. Has any one looked into a electric motor drive for the AMC shaft.[ Later


----------



## Gunner7800

Unk Bond said:


> Hello all
> Hey guys. Has any one looked into a electric motor drive for the AMC shaft.[ Later


In another thread there was a discussion about linear actuators. They seem to be easier to get one's hands on instead of a motor. Although with a motor you could rig your press to have the handwheel as a backup. Below is a link to some actuators, if you find a motor that you can attach to the acme rod instead, let us know.

http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=90&products_id=5


----------



## Unk Bond

Gunner7800 said:


> In another thread there was a discussion about linear actuators. They seem to be easier to get one's hands on instead of a motor. Although with a motor you could rig your press to have the handwheel as a backup. Below is a link to some actuators, if you find a motor that you can attach to the acme rod instead, let us know.
> 
> http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=90&products_id=5


=========================
Hello Gunner
Thanks for the link.
My cog-gs are runing wild. :wink:

http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=104&products_id=188


----------



## AR&BOW

What are you all using for the rod that the fingers mount to?


----------



## GregG

I am just throwing this out there. I wonder if you could use a old satellite dish actuator.


----------



## Gunner7800

GregG said:


> I am just throwing this out there. I wonder if you could use a old satellite dish actuator.


I remember some guys trying that, or going to try that. But I don't know if they got it to work or if one of those would even be strong enough.


----------



## pacnate

What is everyone using that is strong enough?


----------



## AR&BOW

AR&BOW said:


> What are you all using for the rod that the fingers mount to?


Guess I will figure it out on my own.


----------



## Gunner7800

AR&BOW said:


> Guess I will figure it out on my own.


It's just 1/2" steel rod.


----------



## AR&BOW

Ok thanks.


----------



## OBE

gunner,
this was some good reading. thanks for passing on your plans and thanks to all that shared what gunner past on to them.


----------



## Gunner7800

OBE said:


> gunner,
> this was some good reading. thanks for passing on your plans and thanks to all that shared what gunner past on to them.


Happy to do it. Hope you got some good information.


----------



## Unk Bond

Gunner7800 said:


> In another thread there was a discussion about linear actuators. They seem to be easier to get one's hands on instead of a motor. Although with a motor you could rig your press to have the handwheel as a backup. Below is a link to some actuators, if you find a motor that you can attach to the acme rod instead, let us know.
> 
> http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=90&products_id=5


===================

Hello all
Gunner quote = In another thread there was a discussion about linear actuators. 

Gunner or any one. I have tried to locate this thread in the search here. Would you have a title or link to that thread. Thanks.


----------



## pTac

For those that don't weld or have access to a welder, has anyone ever thought of using the perforated steel with connectors from McMaster-Carr to do a project like this?


----------



## pacnate

pTac said:


> For those that don't weld or have access to a welder, has anyone ever thought of using the perforated steel with connectors from McMaster-Carr to do a project like this?
> 
> View attachment 934718
> 
> 
> View attachment 934717


Would LOVE to know if this would work or not?????


----------



## Gunner7800

I don't think I've seen a linear press made from perf steel. I have seen a double pull press that uses a bottle jack, and I think I've also seen an X style press made from this as well.


----------



## BowhunterJT

pacnate said:


> Would LOVE to know if this would work or not?????


This idea would work just fine and is one of those why didn't I think of this ideas. You have to remember that these presses are only pressing 70lbs on the average. Some people on AT are making press fingers out of wood. Have fun.

JT


----------



## pacnate

Well, I have some fingers on the way out of 1/2" steel, just don't have the welder. But I have a guy saying he can weld it for me, I think it'll look better than the perf steel if I have the solid wall stuff. I'm anxious to get started. Been wanting to do this since I seen everyone else's ideas.

Thanks to everyone who has inputted!!! Will post some pics when I get it finished.


----------



## Mbmadness

I am almost dont with mine , This has been a great thread . Does the arm that extends out supposed to have some play ? And where did you guys get the plastic caps from ? Thx when i complete and paint i will post the picks . And will half inch aluminum work for fingers ? Thx gunner , you the man .


----------



## Hunter1$

Is everybody just making there own fingers now? All the links I have found are no longer making fingers.


----------



## lc12

pTac said:


> For those that don't weld or have access to a welder, has anyone ever thought of using the perforated steel with connectors from McMaster-Carr to do a project like this?
> 
> View attachment 934718
> 
> 
> View attachment 934717


Actually, I built my first press out of perf-steel using 92safari's ideas and fingers. Works great. Do a search on here for 92safari and you will find his press. 
He also sells on ebay.
A very nice press!


----------



## JC507

I built the extendable linear press out of perferated steel just because we have a bunch at work. Works perfect, couldn't decide on a finger style so for now I am using some wood clamps from my shop spaced apart to fit the cam in between them. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18917


----------



## SHEGGE

1st off this is a ausome post. Way to go everyone and Gunner.

Any one have a print on what fingers to use for a Hoyt Maxxis?
Also how much of a space or should I say "up" are the fingers. I see thet pivit so they must be raised?
Thanks


----------



## f4irocket

Here is my version of Gunner7800 design. I'm in the process of making it right now. If you notice the the fingers are welded to a separate tube so I can interchange to different setups such as a draw board. I would like to thank Gunner for all his info that he has provided in this post.


----------



## Gunner7800

f4irocket said:


> Here is my version of Gunner7800 design. I'm in the process of making it right now. If you notice the the fingers are welded to a separate tube so I can interchange to different setups such as a draw board. I would like to thank Gunner for all his info that he has provided in this post.


That's lookin' pretty sweet!!


----------



## f4irocket

Thanks buddy. I have a question for you on a bow like an Alphaburner what is the overall length of the bow after it is full relaxed?


----------



## Gunner7800

I'm not sure, I don't own a Hoyt. Nothing against them, they're great bows, just not for me(don't want the hater emails associated with a post like this, and yes I truely believe they are good bows).


----------



## f4irocket

Ya a person has to be super careful what he says on here people are really sensitive.:shhh:


----------



## ruttnwapati

f4irocket said:


> View attachment 945847
> 
> 
> Here is my version of Gunner7800 design. I'm in the process of making it right now. If you notice the the fingers are welded to a separate tube so I can interchange to different setups such as a draw board. I would like to thank Gunner for all his info that he has provided in this post.


That is a sweet looking set up you have there. Can't wait to see the finished product.:thumbs_up


----------



## f4irocket

Thanks


----------



## bigbucks9

f4irocket-pm sent


----------



## bigbucks9

f4irocket- did you use the 24" both inner and outer tubes or make them different lenghts.


----------



## f4irocket

Actually they are 36" so it can be extended out far enough to be used for a draw board or a shooting machine.


----------



## ryvpete

I built a press using the dimensions from the plans and I would say that I would definitely add at least 6 more inches to the either the stationary or the movable arm of the press. The 24" really puts you on the end when trying to press even my XForce. It was OK on my Generals but the XForce made me nervous. No way it would ever allow you to remove the limbs on the XForce with the 24" arms. I plan on building another movable arm at least 8" longer as soon as I order another ACME nut from McMaster Carr.


----------



## Unk Bond

ryvpete said:


> I built a press using the dimensions from the plans and I would say that I would definitely add at least 6 more inches to the either the stationary or the movable arm of the press. The 24" really puts you on the end when trying to press even my XForce. It was OK on my Generals but the XForce made me nervous. No way it would ever allow you to remove the limbs on the XForce with the 24" arms. I plan on building another movable arm at least 8" longer as soon as I order another ACME nut from McMaster Carr.


Hello
What will your over all measurement be. After adding a longer piece. [ Later


----------



## ryvpete

If I add 8" to that movable bar it would be at 32". I could have let the ACME rod longer if I knew I would need more stroke. However, I don't think the stroke will be a problem, there seems to be plenty. Just need more room to get the bow in there before you start.


----------



## Unk Bond

ryvpete said:


> If I add 8" to that movable bar it would be at 32". I could have let the ACME rod longer if I knew I would need more stroke. However, I don't think the stroke will be a problem, there seems to be plenty. Just need more room to get the bow in there before you start.


Hello and thanks.
Guess i ask my question wrong,let me try again.

After U add another piece. Now what will the distance be. Between the 2 sets of fingers.[ Later


----------



## pacnate

May be a dumb question, but if I have the Flanged Bearing Mount, do I still need the Thrust Bearings for the press? I think the biggest thing I'm having trouble with is just exactly how the parts are put together from the hand wheel thru the bearings and into the tubing??? I must be missing something. Got my stuff from Enco yesterday, ordering MMC today. Hope to start next week if possible.

Thanks to everyone and especially you Gunner!!!


----------



## BMarcinek

Well here is my version of the press that I made thanks to the info provided by Gunner and others.

I made mine with a flange bearing. I also placed a drill bushing on the acme thread where it goes through the flange bearing to try to keep it as square as possible. I welded a 1/2" nut to a 3/4" acme nut to attach the handwheel (1/2" bore on the Grizzly handwheel). 

I made my fingers different than what most are probably used to seeing. I had a ton of experience using an ez press so I tried to address the problem of accessing all parts of the cam when changing strings or modules on some bows by making my fingers longer on top with more of a push block type of design. I made one finger base a slighty different angle to provide more adjustability for different bows (draw stops, string suppressors, etc).

The fingers took me a while to figure out. I cut and welded them to shape them. I could have done it way faster by cutting them from a piece of plate but, to be honest I was designing on the fly. They pivot on 1/2" i.d. drill bushings and 1/2" stainless rod.


Sorry about the low quality pictures. My blackberry doesnt take nice images and I was too lazy to get my camera :wink:

Thanks again to Gunner and others for providing such great info!


----------



## dwagoner

http://www.grizzly.com/products/category.aspx?key=240470

Some more options for hand wheels and accessories


----------



## dwagoner

ive been compiling a list of stuff to order from McMaster to finish up my press and maybe make a few more for some buddies locally, i have many sets of "finger thingeys" and cant decide to make 5 press' with them or just get rid of the fingers for someone else to made a press for themself. Gonna go with the bushing idea on hand wheel side from BlueRidge and his nice press, i have the same fingers as that one and like how he put it together, great stuff on here


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## Bowtoons

Thanks for the plans Gunner. I'm down in Alabama visiting in laws for the holidays. I said to my brother in law that I had been wanting to build one of these and three days in his garage later we ended up with a motorized press. I already have the fingers but they are up home in NY, so I will have to wait to put them on. It's not exactly to Gunners specs but we started off of those plans. Can't wait to get back and crush some limbs...lol.


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## j.burtt

Nice work guys.
My plan is use Gunners specs. Instead of going crazy trying to figure out bushings/bearings and how I'm going to mount the hand wheel to the rod, I'm going to use a 12V / 24" / 200# linear actuator from Figarelli. I'll weld one mount to the stationary end and the other mount to the telescoping end. Then all I have to do is connect foot switches for +12V and -12V. Yes the actuator increases the price, but you save on the hand wheel, acme rod, acme nuts, bearings/bushings, shipping and the headaches of engineering it to work properly. Then I'll weld a piece of tubing pointing down on each end of the stationary shaft that fits inside a couple of pieces of nestable tubing for the work bench stand. This way I can lift it out and drop it into the stand that slides into the receiver hitch and plugs into the trailer plug for power when out and about. 

I have an extra 12V / 24" / 200# linear actuator with mounting hardware I bought for a friend that got laid off. So, I'll be listing it in the classifieds as soon as I figure out where it goes. 

James


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## ChrisH

hey gunner
I am one of the many guys who is building a press based on these great press plans. thanks a ton for starting this thread.
I had a question regarding the acme nuts/flange bearing/clamp collar assembly that I think others have asked, but I could not find specific enough info on, and I'm wanting to ask again to get more detailed info.
I am using a flange bearing on my press. I'm wondering about the assembly detail. In your "assembly" detail you show that the only part on the inside of the mounting plate and flange bearing is a lock collar. Am I correct in thinking that this collar is the only thing (aside from the small 'keeper' screws on the flange) keeping the acme rod from pushing thru the end of the press assembly when under pressure? Is this collar really slip proof??
Also, is the acme nut on the outside of the assembly (inbetween the flange bearing and the hand wheel) the load bearing piece that keeps the acme rod from being pulled through on the "in" pull when using the press as a draw board? If so, I see that some people are only using a lock collar (and some aren't using anything at all, just the flange bearing-hand wheel assembly). I would think that an acme nut on both sides of the flange bearing assembly is the only real bomber piece that would keep the acme rod from slipping through in either direction. Am I correct in thinking that if using the press as a bow press and a draw board that there will be forces pushing both directions??
Also, where do the 4 washers go? 
Thanks a ton.
chris


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## Gunner7800

ChrisH said:


> hey gunner
> I am one of the many guys who is building a press based on these great press plans. thanks a ton for starting this thread.
> I had a question regarding the acme nuts/flange bearing/clamp collar assembly that I think others have asked, but I could not find specific enough info on, and I'm wanting to ask again to get more detailed info.
> I am using a flange bearing on my press. I'm wondering about the assembly detail. In your "assembly" detail you show that the only part on the inside of the mounting plate and flange bearing is a lock collar. Am I correct in thinking that this collar is the only thing (aside from the small 'keeper' screws on the flange) keeping the acme rod from pushing thru the end of the press assembly when under pressure? Is this collar really slip proof??
> Yes, these collars hold quite a bit more that a person thinks. You can also put a thrust bearing assembly between the lock collar and mounting plate if you plan to do the draw board thing with your press.
> Also, is the acme nut on the outside of the assembly (inbetween the flange bearing and the hand wheel) the load bearing piece that keeps the acme rod from being pulled through on the "in" pull when using the press as a draw board?
> Yes, but it's actually when you are using it as a press, not the draw board.
> If so, I see that some people are only using a lock collar (and some aren't using anything at all, just the flange bearing-hand wheel assembly).When there is a set screw on the bearing and in the handwheel hub
> I would think that an acme nut on both sides of the flange bearing assembly is the only real bomber piece that would keep the acme rod from slipping through in either direction. Am I correct in thinking that if using the press as a bow press and a draw board that there will be forces pushing both directions??Yes there will be. Using an acme nut on the inside of the press assembly would be ideal. The only problem would be getting the nut to stay in place. You would have to tack it or drill a set screw in the nut. That is why the collar is used. Once you have it in the right place you can tighten down the screws on it and you shouldn't have to worry about it.
> 
> Also, where do the 4 washers go? ??????, not sure what 4 washers unless you bought two of the thrust bearing assemblies. If that is the case then you put a washer on either side of the thrust bearing to give it a smooth surface to ride on.
> Thanks a ton.
> chris


Hope this helps.


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## NEWYORKHILLBILLY

can any one help me find fingers???? Pm if you can


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## Neuralgia

This us one of the best threads I've seen here.

I only have TWO questions.

1. How much "clearance" must be between the base of the fingers and the press itself so you can rotate the fingers to adjust them.

Am I explaining myself?

2. What material does the rod has to be from?

Would this work?

http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Thr...YW1G/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1295243035&sr=8-5

(Yes I know it's amazon, but I don't live in the states, and most site do not accept international credit cards )


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## ymurf

If your talking about the all thread it is best to use Acme thread..On the clearance you dont need allot,maby .250".


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## Neuralgia

no, acme is the type of thread.

I'm talking about the MATERIAL that the rod is made out of.

Thanks for the clearace info, from the pictures I wasn't sure if it was .125 or .250"

PS: Thickness of fingers? 3/8"? 1/2"? 3/4"?


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## Gunner7800

I have about 0.125" of clearance under my fingers and the fingers are 1/2" thick. The rod really doesn't have to be made of stainless, plain old steel will work. It would be a lot cheaper too.


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## ymurf

Gunner7800 said:


> I have about 0.125" of clearance under my fingers and the fingers are 1/2" thick. The rod really doesn't have to be made of stainless, plain old steel will work. It would be a lot cheaper too.


Just make them out of T-76 aluminum just like the ones on the EZ Press..Allot less machine time and they will press Over 300# Cause I have tested them.And I mean way over 300#..


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## psumitch

a couple questions for those of you who have built these presses...
1. do you have any estimate on how far your press would have to extend to relax a 40" ATA bow?
2. for the 1.5" piece that slides into the 1.75" tube, when you weld the plate with the 7/8" hole drilled, does that need to be sanded back down to provide clearance in the 1.75" tube? If so, are you worried there is not much weld left at this point? Ive seen others place the nut inside of the 1.5" tube and weld it that way. again, it seems if you dont make a good weld here, this area could be prone to break? Am I wrong? What if you drilled holes into the 1.5" tube and spot welded the nut to reinforce it? Anyone tried that? Im just concerned if that nut breaks loose while a bow is pressed.


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## Gunner7800

psumitch said:


> a couple questions for those of you who have built these presses...
> 1. do you have any estimate on how far your press would have to extend to relax a 40" ATA bow?
> 2. for the 1.5" piece that slides into the 1.75" tube, when you weld the plate with the 7/8" hole drilled, does that need to be sanded back down to provide clearance in the 1.75" tube? If so, are you worried there is not much weld left at this point? Ive seen others place the nut inside of the 1.5" tube and weld it that way. again, it seems if you dont make a good weld here, this area could be prone to break? Am I wrong? What if you drilled holes into the 1.5" tube and spot welded the nut to reinforce it? Anyone tried that? Im just concerned if that nut breaks loose while a bow is pressed.


1. Not sure how much length you would have to have on the 40" bow, depends on the bow.
2. Think you have the plate welded on the wrong tube. It should be welded to the outside of the 1.75" tube. Which is what your bearing mount plate would be or the plate the thrust bearing would run on. As far as welding the nut in the 1.5" tube, you can drill holes to tack the nut in. Someone has already mentioned doing it that way and it seems like a good idea to me. I believe they said it worked really well. Just make sure to grind down those welds for clearance in the 1.75" tube and that your nut is SQUARE. You could also weld around the outside of the nut where it hits the tube, just for additional welding area.


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## nutbuster

what thickness tube are u using thanks


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## psumitch

1. i got info that a 40" ATA bow would extend to roughly 48" inches, this is just an estimate of 1 person's specific 40" ATA bow, so do not assume this works on other bows. I have an idea to make my press extend from approx 15" to 56", so i should be good to go for most bows and crossbows (see rough design below)
2. Gunner7800, i am referring to the plate you welded on to the 1.5" tube on page 1 of your version 1.2 pdf file. But I think we will place the nut inside the 1.5" tube, tack weld, and spot weld to hold it in.

If anyone wants to check out this design, please provide feedback if you think I have any flaws. Using 3 different sizes of tube, I can press bows from roughly 15" up to approx 56". If i proceed with this, I will post some pics. If anyone has done this, point me to your thread, I couldnt find any. Im going to get the perforated tube from home depot or lowes, I saw some 1-1/4 tube there.













Gunner7800 said:


> 1. Not sure how much length you would have to have on the 40" bow, depends on the bow.
> 2. *Think you have the plate welded on the wrong tube*. It should be welded to the outside of the 1.75" tube. Which is what your bearing mount plate would be or the plate the thrust bearing would run on. As far as welding the nut in the 1.5" tube, you can drill holes to tack the nut in. Someone has already mentioned doing it that way and it seems like a good idea to me. I believe they said it worked really well. Just make sure to grind down those welds for clearance in the 1.75" tube and that your nut is SQUARE. You could also weld around the outside of the nut where it hits the tube, just for additional welding area.


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## Out West

Subscribing to this one.....


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## Out West

A couple quick questions for you guys:

1. If you are using the flanged bearing assembly, do you have to machine the acme rod round and smooth in that position to fit snug in the bearing assembly? I'm not a machinist, so sorry if this is a dumb question.

2. I haven't seen anybody with fingers that look like they would work with bows with draw stops. Does anybody have any cad drawings of fingers that are cut shorter or tapered more to fit bows with the draw stops?

Thanks for any feedback...


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## Out West

Out West said:


> A couple quick questions for you guys:
> 
> 1. If you are using the flanged bearing assembly, do you have to machine the acme rod round and smooth in that position to fit snug in the bearing assembly? I'm not a machinist, so sorry if this is a dumb question.
> 
> 2. I haven't seen anybody with fingers that look like they would work with bows with draw stops. Does anybody have any cad drawings of fingers that are cut shorter or tapered more to fit bows with the draw stops?
> 
> Thanks for any feedback...


Anybody have clarification for these questions?????????????


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## lc12

psumitch said:


> 1. i got info that a 40" ATA bow would extend to roughly 48" inches, this is just an estimate of 1 person's specific 40" ATA bow, so do not assume this works on other bows. I have an idea to make my press extend from approx 15" to 56", so i should be good to go for most bows and crossbows (see rough design below)
> 2. Gunner7800, i am referring to the plate you welded on to the 1.5" tube on page 1 of your version 1.2 pdf file. But I think we will place the nut inside the 1.5" tube, tack weld, and spot weld to hold it in.
> 
> If anyone wants to check out this design, please provide feedback if you think I have any flaws. Using 3 different sizes of tube, I can press bows from roughly 15" up to approx 56". If i proceed with this, I will post some pics. If anyone has done this, point me to your thread, I couldnt find any. Im going to get the perforated tube from home depot or lowes, I saw some 1-1/4 tube there.


Why not just use TWO pieces instead of three? Use the 1.5 for the inside tube and the 1.75 for the main tube and extension tube.
I built a press like yours using the perforated steel from Lowes and as an after thought I used the scrap piece to make an "extension" for longer bows. Works like a charm and keeps you from having to do so much cranking on the handwheel too!


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## jdiesel

I sure wish I knew some one who could weld


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## Out West

*Thrust Bearing vs. Flanged Bearing Mount*

One more question for you guys. Besides price, is there an advantage to one over the other (thrust bearing vs flanged bearing mount)? My one friend said with the thrust bearing you could set it up so the hand wheel does not naturally want to rotate at rest where the flanged bearing mount may want to free wheel. Is this correct? Is one smoother than the other?


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## lc12

Out West said:


> One more question for you guys. Besides price, is there an advantage to one over the other (thrust bearing vs flanged bearing mount)? My one friend said with the thrust bearing you could set it up so the hand wheel does not naturally want to rotate at rest where the flanged bearing mount may want to free wheel. Is this correct? Is one smoother than the other?


I used a "flanged bearing" just to make the press smoother in operation. NO PROBLEMS with my press wanting to "free wheel". But I used the 3/4" x 6 ACME rod too, but I doubt that it matters in this regard.


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## NEWYORKHILLBILLY

I dint even put a bearing in mine an dint works fine. if I was to do it again I use the thrust bearing


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## pilot107

Gunner I'd like to know what you used to beat the drag and fiction at the end of the 1.75" main body tube.I'v looked at the original of these presses and it looks as though there is a very thin --either -- shim stock or plastic rider in the end of the tube on the bottom and 2 sides.Seems to me that type of application would need replacement very much sooner than later.


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## Out West

lc12 said:


> I used a "flanged bearing" just to make the press smoother in operation. NO PROBLEMS with my press wanting to "free wheel". But I used the 3/4" x 6 ACME rod too, but I doubt that it matters in this regard.


Thanks for the feedback....


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## tllhunter

Just finished my press thanks to everyone's ideas and explanations. A special thanks to Gunner. I had a hard time understanding the internal workings of the press but when I installed it, as per the diagram provided, it became apparent. I used a flanged bearing and a thrust bearing. The flanged bearing was used primarily to insure that the acme rod was centered. This made the press very smooth. I also used a thrust bearing both internally and externally. The parts were to cheap not to.


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## Out West

tllhunter said:


> Just finished my press thanks to everyone's ideas and explanations. A special thanks to Gunner. I had a hard time understanding the internal workings of the press but when I installed it, as per the diagram provided, it became apparent. I used a flanged bearing and a thrust bearing. The flanged bearing was used primarily to insure that the acme rod was centered. This made the press very smooth. I also used a thrust bearing both internally and externally. The parts were to cheap not to.


What would be the advantages of using both bearings together? Did you test it both ways (just with the flanged bearing and with both). Just curious if both together made it even smoother?


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## tllhunter

Don't know if there is an advantage. I did not test it both ways. It just seemed logical that the more centered the acme rod the smoother the operation would be. I then felt that the flanged bearing would keep the rod centered and the thrust bearing would do its job. I know that after assembly I can turn the hand wheel with two fingers. It is very smooth and it only cost about $3.00 to use both, so I did.


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## Hoytusa#1

bump


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## Panzer 4

I have a set of fingers on the way, and am looking forward to building one of these. Maybe I can order the rest of the materials tomorrow.

Thanks for sharing the plans. This looks like a fun build.


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## camoman73

Getting materials ready as of yesterday. So far all i have is the fingers,and the steel rod to assemble the fingers.
Cant wait to get this made! Thanks gunner, and everyone else who contributed.


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## Bzn Bow Hunter

Subscribing for future reference


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## yard-dart2

Great stuff thanks everyone for sharing...


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## bigchop

this may be a dumb question ,what are the set screws on the fingers for? are they some type of adjustment? it looks like in most of the pics i see they are not touching anything.


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## GTO63

bigchop said:


> this may be a dumb question ,what are the set screws on the fingers for? are they some type of adjustment? it looks like in most of the pics i see they are not touching anything.


They are adjustment screws, in case you need them to make sure the fingers are square, on some bows like Mathews that have the stringer dampener brackets you can adjust for it


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## Panzer 4

Has anyone supported the fingers with a longer shaft that is supports on the ends, insted of the middle of the shaft?

Is a 6" wheel adequate for cranking the press, or would an 8" be better for more leverage?


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## Gunner7800

Panzer 4 said:


> Has anyone supported the fingers with a longer shaft that is supports on the ends, insted of the middle of the shaft?
> 
> Is a 6" wheel adequate for cranking the press, or would an 8" be better for more leverage?


It should be fine to do, would probably be easier than having the block in the middle. If you have one of the bows with the huge cam and idler wheel this would definitely be a good thing. As for the wheel, 6" is fine. You can get more leverage with an 8" wheel but the mechanical advantage you have is enough with the 6". There would be nothing wrong with either of these ideas, after all it's your press. Try them, see if you like them and let us know.


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## pilot107

Hey gunner -- here's your press with a few mods of my own.It's longer by 7" than your plans and will compress to 27 1/2" (+/-) and relax to 51" (+/-) in the neutral position on the fingers --- runs smooth as h***.


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## yard-dart2

That's some nice additions. Can you post a close up of the arm(s) where the shaft and fingers mount? I'd like to see what you did there. Are you going to use the press mounted on a bench top or on a stand? Again, appreciate your sharing.


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## pilot107

the press is mounted on a working station at home and tomorrow I'll build the legs that will make the removeable press component(s) portable ie: table top mountable with a couple of clamps or vise grips.


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## yard-dart2

Yes, thanks for the closer photos of the finger mount area. One question I have is, how is the fit of the smaller square tubing inside the larger tubing? Did you have to shim it to take up any slop between the two? Nice job. I'll be watching to see your finished press.


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## hogasm

If you purchase from McMaster Carr 
4931T143 1.75 tubing
4931T142 1.5 tubing

the 1.5" tubing fits into the 1.75" tubing with no grinding. The minimal slop between the two when pressure is applied, disappears.


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## pilot107

the .105 wall seamless tubes nest with .040" of clearance,to defeat any dynamic load friction I'm installing .015" thick adheasive slick tape on the lower and 2 sides of the driven tube which will also take up .030" of the nesting clearance - hopefully the tubes are drawn true and .010" clearance won't be too picky


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## Panzer 4

I am still waiting for some of my materials. In the meantime, I am toying with the idea of an electric drive. 

To properly spec the motor, can someone tell me how many pounds are required on the handle of the 6" wheel is needed to compress a 70lb bow?


----------



## Panzer 4

Sorry for bumping, but I am really hoping someone can measure the force needed to turn the wheek while compressing a bow.

Thanks...


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## bearleft

Gunner, Thank you for keeping up with this project and helping everyone out! I will be starting on my press this weekend . Dan


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## Bnbfishin

My press has the support bars on the ends instead of the middle. I much prefer it that way over the center block that I had made on my previous press. Let me see if I have a pic and I'll post it for you.

Looks like I deleted a bunch of my pics. I'll take some tomorrow and share them.


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## Hiller

Panzer 4 said:


> Sorry for bumping, but I am really hoping someone can measure the force needed to turn the wheek while compressing a bow.
> 
> Thanks...


I can't remember the calculations right off the top of my head, but I'm guessing you will need a very small hp motor, that is gear reduced extremly low in order to not compress the bow too quickly. I can't really see where you would benefit from having an electric drive, but to each his own. With an ACME thread or some sort of precision thread, it certainly takes very little force to run the screw back and forth. 

I will look into it tomorrow if I get some time, too burnt out tonight to put forth a whole lot of effort.. LOL


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## Knot Tellin

Nice


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## Hiller

Gunners, 
I just ran across this thread this evening, I almost laughed out loud when I saw your plans. I had actually been working on a design at work that was darn near identical to what your had... Although I had incorporated a couple of linear shafts instead of telescoping the tubing... I hope you don't mind, but I think I'll be rev-ing my design and going with what you are doing, looks much easier and less expensive... Gotta give you two thumbs up on the design though, that is great. I'll work on my drawings and post them up here in the next week or so. I think I over engineered mine slightly... LOL... 

Great idea!!.


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## Bnbfishin

Ok took some pics of mine. I used 1 3/4" tube and 2" tube. The 2" tube comes in handy so when I go on a road trip hunting and I need to service my bow all I need to do is put the press in my hitch receiver on my truck and I can go to work on it. I drilled two holes in it so I could mount it to my work station (aka desk lol) and used two aluminum rods with cotter pins on the underside of the desktop so it wouldn't move. I simply use a ratchet to adjust my press. No need for a wheel. I also have a power version to use instead of the ratchet but it's at a job site at the moment. And yes, I have a backup press that needs a new home.....


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## droptine801

Looking for Press fingers I went to some locals to get them made but they want $70 to $100 each thats to pricey 
if anyone can help PM me Thanks


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## hogasm

droptine801 said:


> Looking for Press fingers I went to some locals to get them made but they want $70 to $100 each thats to pricey
> if anyone can help PM me Thanks


I ran into the same thing. I had a friend take them to work and his boss said he would have to charge $25 each with a 20 minimum. 

Ended up making my own on the band saw and drill press in about 1 hour.


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## Panzer 4

Considering it out of boredom, actually.

I work with control systems, and was just thinking why not. The best way to do it way cost a bit. I do not think that it is something that I will pursue. I do want to complete the specifications in case someone down the road is interested. I should be able to find a way to drop the cost from what I am looking at now.






Hiller said:


> I can't remember the calculations right off the top of my head, but I'm guessing you will need a very small hp motor, that is gear reduced extremly low in order to not compress the bow too quickly. I can't really see where you would benefit from having an electric drive, but to each his own. With an ACME thread or some sort of precision thread, it certainly takes very little force to run the screw back and forth.
> 
> I will look into it tomorrow if I get some time, too burnt out tonight to put forth a whole lot of effort.. LOL


----------



## Peteyur

this thread is awsome THANK YOU!!!!


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## Knot Tellin

Nice But I have 3 questions. 
1 how thick is the material you are using for the fingers. 
2. Do you think alluminum would be sufficent for the fingers. 
3. What keeps the bow from wanting to slide out the bottom of the press. I was thinking with the parrallel limbs they would want to slide out. Has anyone had a problem with this.



Bnbfishin said:


> Ok took some pics of mine. I used 1 3/4" tube and 2" tube. The 2" tube comes in handy so when I go on a road trip hunting and I need to service my bow all I need to do is put the press in my hitch receiver on my truck and I can go to work on it. I drilled two holes in it so I could mount it to my work station (aka desk lol) and used two aluminum rods with cotter pins on the underside of the desktop so it wouldn't move. I simply use a ratchet to adjust my press. No need for a wheel. I also have a power version to use instead of the ratchet but it's at a job site at the moment. And yes, I have a backup press that needs a new home.....


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## pilot107

1/2" aluminum is more than strong enough for the fingers providing the web or back shape is in the form of a right triange to support the face exactly the same shape as the original.The only draw back would be that the material gauls very easily and the hole at the pivot could be damaged with repeated installation and removal from the press,bushing the hole with steel or bronze would cure any gauling issues.As for a bow sliding out of the fingers go -- I've pressed everything I've got here in the press I've just completed, by adjusting the fingers to make good even contact with the limbs and with the resulting pressure of compression of the limbs the bow(s) is/are locked in position without any fear of any movement except the compressing of the limbs --- rock solid.


----------



## Knot Tellin

What kind of flanged bearings are people using. All of the ones I have found are not designed to be used as a trust bearing.


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## pilot107

I've used a thrust bearing on my press which is a correct application,a flange bearing is designed to take loads 90 degrees to rotation and sooner than later will fail even at the relatively light loading that these presses develope.The inner and outer races on most flange ball bearings is quite shallow and is only meant to index the bearing 90 degrees to rotation,IMHO a sealed thrust bearing is the correct way to go.


----------



## Knot Tellin

Pilot that is what I had orginal found as well. However in the descripition that I found in Mcmaster and Fastenal said that the bearing can be used as a trust, radial bearing or combination. I ended up ordering one through fastenal for under $8 and the threaded rod was $23 for 6'. Which works out perfect because my friend and I are both building one. I have all my supplies ordered should be able to get most of it done this weekend. I will have to wait till I get the handle early next week to finish. I will post pictures when it is done.


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## jeffbv

is there anyone selling fingers for the press? if they are, im interested in buying a set.


----------



## ymurf

Knot Tellin said:


> Nice But I have 3 questions.
> 1 how thick is the material you are using for the fingers.
> 2. Do you think alluminum would be sufficent for the fingers.
> 3. What keeps the bow from wanting to slide out the bottom of the press. I was thinking with the parrallel limbs they would want to slide out. Has anyone had a problem with this.


Aluminum works just fine.We tested it and no way you could break them pressing a bow.Limbs would break first.I used T-76 aluminum on mine.


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## pilot107

Knot Tellin -- that's why there is a freedom of choice-- if a flange bearing is going to work for you then a flange bearing it is lololo.


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## colbyfieldman22

I am looking for a end cap for the piece of 1 3/4 steel, anyone know where to pick one up at.


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## Gunner7800

colbyfieldman22 said:


> I am looking for a end cap for the piece of 1 3/4 steel, anyone know where to pick one up at.


McMaster-Carr sells them. I think ACE hardware carries them too.


----------



## Unk Bond

colbyfieldman22 said:


> I am looking for a end cap for the piece of 1 3/4 steel, anyone know where to pick one up at.


Hello
Suggestion = that 1 3/4 inch opening. Is nice to use for a draw board. Meaning. Drill a square plate with a 3/4" hole, and tack a nut to it. Then welled it to your 1 3/4 inch openings.Then buy 2 long shank 3/4 inch bolts. cut the bolt heads off. Add a rubber hose. And screw these into your tacked nuts , that are on the back side of the plate, that you welded to your 1 3/3 inch box tubing.. [ Later


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## hjort jagare

Marking this


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## Green Monster

ttt for me


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## Peteyur

I am useing trust bearings but I am haveing trouble getting them to work right. i have tried lock nuts and it seem s like I can never get the pressure right. A little to loose and it wobles alittle to tight and it is hard to turn. How are you guys doing this. I have a trust bearing on each side of my 1/4 inch end cap and a coller on the inside. The thrust bearings I ordered from McMaster but they seemed a little small. Maybe thats the problem I dont know its the first time I have used them. Never done a project like this and I am very excited about finishing it but need some help thank You

Pete


----------



## Peteyur

Got it working now. You have to use the thrust washers also. And all that is needed is a collar an both sides.


----------



## JNH

this may be a stupid question but i didnt read through all 11 pages of this thread. I am wanting to build a press and wanted to know how critical it is to use the nestable tubing? Also those who have ordered from Mcmaster carr, how much is shipping on the steel? Will a plasma cutter be good enough for cutting out the fingers? Thanks!


----------



## Peteyur

I used a plasma cutter and it took a number of times before they looked good. And even then there was some work to be done on them. The key is to take it really slow.I didn't use nesting tube but in order to use other tube you have to notch out the inner tube for the weld thats on the inside of the outer tube. Not a big deal it took about 2 minutes with a hand held grinder and a chalk box. Then you can buy the tubeing at any welding shop and they may let you buy out of their scrap bin at scrap prices. Your peices are not that long so this works.


----------



## JNH

thanks!


----------



## psumitch

JNH said:


> Also those who have ordered from Mcmaster carr, how much is shipping on the steel?


There shipping is reasonable, like $11-$13 for 2 pieces of 6' steel. but their website does not provide a shipping amount. I always call to do the order and get the quote. Even then I had 1 time where they quoted me $13 and when I got the bill it was $32. I had to call back to get an adjustment. The unknown shipping charges is the only thing I dont like about using mcmaster carr.


----------



## TN ARCHER

I would recommend going on and using the nestable tubing. I feel like the tolerances are tighter and you get a better fit.
I ordered a 4' and two 6' pieces of nestable tubing,bearings, two hand wheels and acme nuts and the shipping was $17.


----------



## Panzer 4

How snug does standard 1.5" tubing fit into the 1.75" Square Fit tubing?

I am finally ordering my materials, but would like to get started with some legs and bench clamps before the materials arrive.

Thanks


----------



## droptine801

where do get the rubber for the press fingers


----------



## Peteyur

I got mine from hardware store. Its just shrink wrap tubing. That way you can just cut it off and replace cheap. I would get the 1inch heavy stuff though it is better.


----------



## shinobi3

I dont know anyone that welds, I was wondering if youguys know what it would costs to get this welded. Has anyone used the other metal tubing that doesnt need welded. thanks
/


----------



## notbulbous

Pardon the ignorance, but a friend made me one of these and I'm picking it up from him soon. I can't seem to figure out on this style press, why the adjustable fingers? why do you need the adjustment up and down of each one? Wouldn't they work in a static / flat position?


----------



## GTO63

notbulbous said:


> Pardon the ignorance, but a friend made me one of these and I'm picking it up from him soon. I can't seem to figure out on this style press, why the adjustable fingers? why do you need the adjustment up and down of each one? Wouldn't they work in a static / flat position?


Some bows like Mathews has the string dampners mounts on the limb tips, you need to adjust for them or it could cause twisting of the limbs, nice to have adjustment


----------



## hjort jagare

Well had to give this style of press a go.:shade: This is our first attempt and we wanted to try a few new things. The bow supports are a little different but I believe will allow more flexible placement. The tool,part tray was a afterthought that i think will come in handy. The extra bow support in the picture? Aah heck I dont know we will use it on the next one.:embara: The fingers are finished we just got to get this thing primed and painted. I will post better pics. when its done. Thanks everyone for the plans,part list and inspiration.:darkbeer:


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## Skeeter 58

hjort jagare said:


> Well had to give this style of press a go.:shade: This is our first attempt and we wanted to try a few new things. The bow supports are a little different but I believe will allow more flexible placement. The tool,part tray was a afterthought that i think will come in handy. The extra bow support in the picture? Aah heck I dont know we will use it on the next one.:embara: The fingers are finished we just got to get this thing primed and painted. I will post better pics. when its done. Thanks everyone for the plans,part list and inspiration.:darkbeer:


Looks really good Steve. She will look great after a paint job.


----------



## harm_hunter

this an inspirational thread 
i plan on building my own linear press,it's a schlep when you have a half an hour drive to the bow shop to correct minor issues,and you have to book you bow in and wait a few days.ok,rant off.
i have some questions,some of which might already be answered in the preceding posts,but i have not gone over this thread with a fine tooth comb.so please bear with me.
can the linear press be used on any bow,especially pre-loaded limb bows?
what prevents the bow from shooting out the bottom of the press?is it just compression and the shape of the fingers?
does the riser get pushed downwards when the bow is compressed?if i build the bow support brackets into the frame will this put more stress on the limbs when pressed?
what prevents the press from "unscrewing" when a bow is pressed?
again,these might seem like silly questions,but i'd like to understand how the press works.

thanks for the help,much appreciated.


----------



## MAC 11700

bump to find tomorrow

Mac


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## dw'struth

MAC 11700 said:


> bump to find tomorrow
> 
> Mac


Another mark. Thanks for all of the great tips!!


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## fishuntbike

I'm working on mine right now and hoping to finished the welding by this weekend


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## MAC 11700

fishuntbike said:


> I'm working on mine right now and hoping to finished the welding by this weekend




















WoW...did you build these parts yourself ? If not..please PM me where I can get some done like that..or the dimensions of your blocks and pins for holding the fingers..

Mac


----------



## MAC 11700

dw'struth said:


> Another mark. Thanks for all of the great tips!!


You better believe it...When we can make something as nice as these ourselves...plus be able to modify it for our own usage...Heck Yea...I've been looking at all kinds of presses over the last 2 months..and when I stumbled on to this thread...I jumped for joy..and I would like to thank Gunner for starting this thread too...all all of the cool ideas eveyone has been putting up...You guys are great..

Mac


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## Garceau

OK I gotta stupid question.

I see alot of people putting thumb type screws on the back lever of their fingers.

Wouldnt it cause unequal limb pressure during pressing if you didnt have them exactly the same? It probably doesnt matter- just wondering.


----------



## Out West

We finally picked up some fingers for our presses. I was wondering if there is anybody out there that makes and willing to sell the base plates and rod for the fingers (similar to post #324)? Can send me a PM as well...


----------



## Unk Bond

fishuntbike said:


> I'm working on mine right now and hoping to finished the welding by this weekend


I tip my :set1_CHAPLIN3: to you. Very nice indeed. Well done. [ Later


----------



## incendiaerus

Anyone turned this into a combo Bow Press and String Jig / String Stretcher?


----------



## Out West

What happened to the 2nd parts list that had the Enco part numbers as well as the Mcmasters? I think lc12 posted it, but now it is gone. Any chance we can get that parts list posted again?


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## Out West

Nevermind. Now the parts list shows up again. Just 10 minutes ago it was missing from the 1st page.....


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## incendiaerus

ttt


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## fishuntbike

got my press final mock-up prior to painting.


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## td051

Anyone have 4 fingers available or good source for them?


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## ryanws87

Great plans Im planning to build one


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## agrims

Got a few quick questions for some of you more experienced AT's out here. First off, has anyone used soild fingers for this type of press, made out of 1/4" or 1/2" thick steel plate. The reason for this is that I love metal working, but don't really have the capability to manufacture the independent fingers as of now, (no mill, cnc, or plasma cutter), and there is another thread labeled the $20.00 bow press, that calls for these types of joined fingers. Secondly, has anyone used perforated steel to make this type of linear press? I have access to locally bought perforated steel tubing, at a great price. Thanks AT and all the members that makes this such a great site!


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## Garceau

Can somone explain the difference between ACME rod and standard threaded rod if there is some? By the one blown up picture here it appears to be machined slightly different.

If there is a difference what is the reason?

I would think it has to do with the traveling of the rod, may not grip as tight as standard threaded rod (just going by the one picture)


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## fishuntbike

Standard V- thread is more for sealing and fastening applications rather than quick movement the acme rod offers and also it's vertical flats give a more positive driving force.


----------



## fishuntbike

Garceau said:


> OK I gotta stupid question.
> 
> I see alot of people putting thumb type screws on the back lever of their fingers.
> 
> Wouldnt it cause unequal limb pressure during pressing if you didnt have them exactly the same? It probably doesnt matter- just wondering.



First few notes, the fingers tip is curled-in towards the bow limbs tip and the bottom of the fingers are NOT totally flat but rounded a little.On my press I only have 1 adjustable finger on each side (I'll make all fingers adjustable later) and at the bottom is a spring steel plate (pinched between fingers and mount) when you pressed a bow the finger tips will roll back to allow the limb tips to position at the curled in finger tip and the fine adjustment is done using the adjustable fingers. This allows the snugg fit of the bow to the press without the accident of sliding down or coming out of the press. Hope this makes sense but it's easier to understand when you have the press in action.


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## Garceau

Thanks man - that really does help. I figured the acme rod had some purpose and by looking at the pics it makes sense.


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## fishuntbike

MAC 11700 said:


> WoW...did you build these parts yourself ? If not..please PM me where I can get some done like that..or the dimensions of your blocks and pins for holding the fingers..
> 
> Mac



hope this will help for dimensions


----------



## Garceau

wow - thanks....

Just one question the hole for the mount and the fingers that the rolled rod would run though. Im having trouble making out that dimension appears to be 7/8"?

Definitly owe you some cold ones after this.


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## fishuntbike

pm sent .....7/32 is the dimension "J" the actual hole is 1/2


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## fishuntbike

finally done ...powder coated


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## lc12

agrims said:


> Secondly, has anyone used perforated steel to make this type of linear press? I have access to locally bought perforated steel tubing, at a great price. Thanks AT and all the members that makes this such a great site!


Yes, my first press was built using locally available "Perf-Steel". I used 1 3/4" outer and 1 1/2" for the inner slider tube.
The tolerance was not real tight, but works for a press. A LITTLE slop is not bad. Too much slop and you may have to shim!
I used 92safari's fingers and an ACME rod and handle taken from an old tire jack. Worked GREAT, and very little money tied up in it!
Then I had to go and build "the better mouse trap" using Gunner7800's plans, so I gave my Perf-Steel press to my son.
I really like 92safari's fingers by the way! Very adjustable and the price was right. He makes a good press himself!!!


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## arahoyt

Here's a few pics of the presses I've built. Not nearly as nice as some of the others on here, but functional anyhow. Thanks goes out to Gunner for the help on the linear press. I can't even remember who I got the X-Press plans from anymore, but thank you too anonymous ATer.

The linear press had a handwheel on it, but I had some fit issues and broke it while I was "tweaking" on it. Anyhow, the Vicegrip is temporary. Might get somebody with some nickel rod to weld the cast wheel back together, or might try to scavenge onto something else.

Anyhow, the X-Press has pressed many, many dozens of bows and has worked great. If I could ever do anything different, I would have used nested tube on it, but the regular seamed tubing still works. The Gunner press has only been used a few times, but works well. I think that most questions have been answered in the thread, but if I can help anybody let me know. I don't get on here a lot anymore, but I still usually check it a few times a week. Thanks to everybody that has contributed.


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## BowhunterJT

Very nice gentlemen!

JT


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## Gunner7800

BowhunterJT said:


> Very nice gentlemen!
> 
> JT


+1
I'm really enjoying how everyone has been able to develop a press to their own liking. Still getting a lot of questions from people and as always I'm more than happy to answer any questions I can. You just have to give me some time since I don't have access to the internet at home right now.


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## Garceau

Hey I finally got some pics....not the best pics. My father took them for me. When the press gets here I can get it painted and get some nicer ones.

Thanks to Gunnar and Fishhuntbike(his press finger dimensions)





































Well for those looking for fingers. I took FishHuntBikes plans, sent them to a friend that teaches in tech college and it cost me 2 pizzas for the students a 5.10 for shipping, they even made me an additional pair of fingers without the curl on top for those with draw stops.


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## fishuntbike

looking good... post more pictures when fully done.


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## Garceau

Will do - I will get it all cleaned up. I may send it in for powdercoating. I have a local place that does it pretty cheap.

will see -


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## outdrsman11

Does anyone know where I could get some caps for the ends of the tubing? I am also having trouble understanding the thrust bearing/flange bearing assembly. How does the flange bearing attach to the main body and how does it work? It's probably very simply, I've just never built anything like this so it's tough to wrap my mind around. Great looking presses everyone
Thanks, Matt


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## Garceau

Well got my press home from my father - needs some tweaking for sure.

Not really sure what he did - but when I put a bow in the press it somewhat binds when cranking - no big deal Im a big guy.

But when I go to take the pressure off it, the acme rod just comes out the end and the tubes are still bound up and no releasing pressure.


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## Gunner7800

Garceau said:


> Well got my press home from my father - needs some tweaking for sure.
> 
> Not really sure what he did - but when I put a bow in the press it somewhat binds when cranking - no big deal Im a big guy.
> 
> But when I go to take the pressure off it, the acme rod just comes out the end and the tubes are still bound up and no releasing pressure.


Most likely the acme rod is not centered in the tubing. If the acme nuts are not centered it will bind and be a pain to crank. You might be able to put a lock collar in the main body tubing to keep the rod inside rather than turning out. You might want to put a thrust bearing with that lock collar as well if you're already having that big of a problem turning it.


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## Gunner7800

outdrsman11 said:


> Does anyone know where I could get some caps for the ends of the tubing? I am also having trouble understanding the thrust bearing/flange bearing assembly. How does the flange bearing attach to the main body and how does it work? It's probably very simply, I've just never built anything like this so it's tough to wrap my mind around. Great looking presses everyone
> Thanks, Matt


McMaster-Carr sells those caps.
I sent you a pm about the bearing assembly.


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## fishuntbike

For those who are wondering how the thrust bearing, washer and bearing flange are assembled together. here are some pictures for you...hope this will help.
Picture 1 has all components (inside and outside of main body) 
Picture 2 shows the left side as outside parts ( Note: gap represents the flange of the main body) and the right side represents the parts that goes inside of the main body that is resting against the main body flange. 
Picture 3 shows the washer, thrust bearing and washer restings againts the collar that is permanent to the acme rod and will rest against the main body flange
Picture 4 shows the oustide look after inserting the acme rod to the main body
Picture 5 shows how the washer, thrust bearing, washer and the bronze flange bearing inserted to the acme rod


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## fishuntbike

Picture 6 is the assembled components with collar in place
picture 7 shows how the handwheel is secured


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## fishuntbike

here is the mount and finger and the whole press


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## ymurf

Garceau said:


> OK I gotta stupid question.
> 
> I see alot of people putting thumb type screws on the back lever of their fingers.
> 
> Wouldnt it cause unequal limb pressure during pressing if you didnt have them exactly the same? It probably doesnt matter- just wondering.


On the fingers I made I did this because my mathews has the string stops that bolt to the out side of the limb so you have to adjust for that to put equal pressure on the limbs.


----------



## avid3d

check this out..... 
last summer i found this thread and decided to build 3 of them, one for me, one for my main shooting partner, and one for the guy that would weld them. so............ 

bought all the parts, cut all the pieces, and delivered parts AND GUNNER'S PLANS to the welder (apparently, not the sharpest tool...), and it took all winter to get the work done....... he recently dropped off the work and........... HE BUILT ALL OF THE BACKWARDS....... he also screwed up the legs...

i was, and still am, very angry indeed.


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## Gunner7800

HA HA HA. Sorry, but that is kinda funny. I don't think I'd let him have his press. Cute little thing with those short legs and I hope you're all lefties. It may not be too bad to grind off those arms and weld them back on the other side, just a thought.


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## avid3d

because of the way i built the finger plates, i'd have to take off the legs also... but i am thinking of not giving the welder his...


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## centershotrob

I would be glad to buy one from you!!!


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## rj40

Yea....He did weld them wrong and that would make me angry. But your hand wheel being on the left is not so bad. If your right handed your bow will be in your right hand that you have more control of. Cranking the wheel with the left hand is not so bad since you only have to make a couple of rotations.


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## avid3d

if anyone noticed, i put that wood support out under the sliding bar and it does a real great job of making it easy to crank even when fully extended. i actually like the set up. just mount the plank wherever and go to work.


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## taoshunter

bump for an awesome thread


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## avid3d

as it turns out... i have an extra...


----------



## NYBowNut

avid3d said:


> check this out.....
> Last summer i found this thread and decided to build 3 of them, one for me, one for my main shooting partner, and one for the guy that would weld them. So............
> 
> Bought all the parts, cut all the pieces, and delivered parts and gunner's plans to the welder (apparently, not the sharpest tool...), and it took all winter to get the work done....... He recently dropped off the work and........... He built all of the backwards....... He also screwed up the legs...
> 
> I was, and still am, very angry indeed.



hey!! I have one of those!!


----------



## avid3d

Gunner7800 said:


> HA HA HA. Sorry, but that is kinda funny. I don't think I'd let him have his press. Cute little thing with those short legs and I hope you're all lefties. It may not be too bad to grind off those arms and weld them back on the other side, just a thought.


so, i ended up doing some grinding, took two of them to a DIFFERENT welder and reverted to right hand operation. so now i have two (one left, one right) that are extra.....


----------



## NoahAU

Where can I get the fingers or can you recommend a company that will do it cheaply? I've already checked with the post #9 guy.


----------



## sIllBowtech

metal shops around here are telling me they wont do it, cut fingers. they say cutting with heat would weaken metal, and put stress cracks in it. 1/2 steel even with stress cracks will press a bow fine i would think.


----------



## Out West

I see some of you guys added I guess what is "spring steel" to your fingers to keep constant pressure upwards on the fingers. My friend and I are just about done with our press/draw board combos, and we would like to add the "spring steel" to the fingers as well. Just wondered where you guys were getting that? Is there a particular thickness? Sorry, don't know anything about spring steel....


----------



## BowhunterJT

sIllBowtech said:


> metal shops around here are telling me they wont do it, cut fingers. they say cutting with heat would weaken metal, and put stress cracks in it. 1/2 steel even with stress cracks will press a bow fine i would think.


You are absolutely right. I am a welded fabricator and a certified welding inspector. I flame cut mine by hand out of 1/2" ASTM A36 plate, and you don't have anything to worry about. You are only talking about 70 - 80 lbs max on the tips of the fingers. You could get away with 1/4" plate if you wanted to. 1/2" gives you more surface area for contact on the limbs though. Anyways no problems.

JT


----------



## fishuntbike

I made a hitch mounted bracket to accomodate my press


----------



## RatherBArchery

How many miles to the gallon does that bow press get??? Sorry couldn't resist  Nice work!!


----------



## creekside1518

i cut mine out of 1/2 inch plate and i have no problems never even heard of such things as stress cracks just go with it


----------



## Komi

would love one but don't know any reasonable priced welders....


----------



## mustang347

Almost done! Thanks for the plans Gunner and all the others who posted all the helpfull info!!!!:wink:


----------



## fishuntbike

Just to answer some of the pm i am getting regarding the finger, mount and spring steel. hope this pictures will help.


First the spring steel and how it is mounted, in the picture the springsteel should have been bolted to the mounting bracket but my bracket came short by 1/4 inch,so it just stay there pinched between the finger and the mounting bracket.


----------



## fishuntbike

next is how the mounting bracket is bolted to the square bar. it's hole for the 1/2 cold rod force fit there.


----------



## fishuntbike

and last the finger was asked if they are flat at the bottom, the answer is NO it has about 5-7 degrees maybe.... so the it rack back and forth on top of the springsteel that give the action or movement of finger. It means the bottom of the finger about 1/3 of the the length is pointy a little bit (not obvious in picture) and it touches the springsteel and when the finger rack back and forth the flat section of the finger touches the springsteel.


----------



## Unk Bond

mustang347 said:


> Almost done! Thanks for the plans Gunner and all the others who posted all the helpfull info!!!!:wink:
> View attachment 1102891



Hello
Are U going to add your draw board. Useing the open box tubing ,square hole ends, in your finger arms. [ Later


----------



## mustang347

I have an idea based off of some other threads on here for a drawboard that I want to make. How ever in the short term I think I might do it on the press as well. Never can have to many tools!!!


----------



## ilgenfritz

Anyone want to make me one? I know this is a DIY thread but I just dont have the time right now with a little one on the way and I could really use a press. If you are intersted PM me a price. Thx!


----------



## sIllBowtech

got my fingers about a week ago, ordered most of the other parts from McMasters last night. any words of wisdom? i have been wanting to build one of these for some time now.


----------



## fishuntbike

the main concern is to align the welded nut inside the smaller square tubing to the bearing mount infront of the larger square tubing so the acme rod is traveling straight....no binding when turning the wheel.


----------



## guido316

Here it is. It's taken me over a year to accumulate all the parts and TIME to put it together. A good friend and I spent a few days in the shop putting this together. Thanks "Gunner" for the plans and info! Please forgive the phone picks. We fixed the potential binding problem by fabricating a tube type carrier bearing in the insert tube. We're still tweaking a few things but it is operational and good to go. Thanks everyone for the great ideas.


----------



## 138104

Here's some fingers for sale if anyone needs them.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1545791


----------



## 138104

Perry24 said:


> Here's some fingers for sale if anyone needs them.
> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1545791


Sorry, these are sold!


----------



## shadetree

TTT
I'm marking this one. Very nice!!!


----------



## wankara

thanks!


----------



## ymurf

I love my press.And I made some custom engraved fingers for mine.


----------



## wbrogdon

My press in progress


----------



## wbrogdon

One more


----------



## fishuntbike

very nice fingers....post more pics when completed


----------



## wbrogdon

Finger supports. Should be able to finish my press now.


----------



## wbrogdon

If it would not be any kind of copyright infringement, i would be willing to post the dxf files that I made from fishuntbike's drawings so that folks could have them cut if needed, but if it would not be legal, then i won't. Let me know.


----------



## wbrogdon

Finished


----------



## fishuntbike

very nice...I like the mounting block and the finished press.


----------



## wbrogdon

One more photo


----------



## sIllBowtech

how do i cut the tubbing? i have a guy that can weld it but what do you all use to cut the tubbing?


----------



## Connor

Is anyone making finger supports to sell???...


----------



## bushmasterar15

Have you guy's changed the lengths of the tubes or are you using the same as the plans?


----------



## ymurf

Connor said:


> Is anyone making finger supports to sell???...


On mine I just used two pieces of angle iron welded back to back.Drilled the 1/2" through them rounded the tops to my liking and welded them to my press arms.They worked great with my fingers.


----------



## Connor

Thanks ymurf! Looks great! :thumbs_up


----------



## sIllBowtech

any ideas on cutting? like the supports idea


----------



## sIllBowtech

if i go with 24'' on both arms realistically what would the span of movement be? with fingers on. could i relax a bowtech Tribute/Ally?


----------



## fishuntbike

with fingers on, let's say starts at 20" and goes up to atleast 44" considering you have the acme rod the whole length and not cut too short.


----------



## DeerHuntin79923

Bump for an awesome thread!!!


----------



## avid3d

has anyone pressed a beyond parallel limb bow with theirs.......?


----------



## Antler Addict1

Not sure if I will sound like an idiot for asking but, is 6061 aluminum alloy strong enough for a build like this?


----------



## ymurf

Antler Addict1 said:


> Not sure if I will sound like an idiot for asking but, is 6061 aluminum alloy strong enough for a build like this?


That will be fine.


----------



## Demonian

Just finished mine. Have yet to paint it, though....


----------



## Gunner7800

Demonian said:


> Just finished mine. Have yet to paint it, though....


That's a good looking press. Be sure to post some pics of it painted.


Ya know, after building this and using for a while now I think the only thing I would change would be the hand wheel. I think it should be a tad bigger just to make it a little easier to crank. It almost feels a little awkward cranking that small of a wheel.


----------



## codykrr

so quick questions on some dimensions. 

Ok so I noticed there in no dimension for what tubing was used on the "arms" the finger assembly will mount too. 

It says the main body is made of 1.75" tubing and the arm is 1.5" tubing. But are you using the 1.75 on the main body arm, and the 1.5 on the arms arm? or you using the 1.5" on both the main body arm and the arms arm...

Sorry if that was confusing.

Also, on the caution bar it says it was 20.75 long, but doesnt say which size tubing was used. I assumed the 1.75, but the drawing indicated the middle tube in smaller the the end tubes which are 1.75...I only assumed the middle section was 1.75 as he used 2 inch sliding pieces to hold the caution bars...

Also will 6 ft of each tubing be more than enough, or is it cutting it close?


----------



## Gunner7800

codykrr said:


> so quick questions on some dimensions.
> 
> Ok so I noticed there in no dimension for what tubing was used on the "arms" the finger assembly will mount too.
> 
> It says the main body is made of 1.75" tubing and the arm is 1.5" tubing. But are you using the 1.75 on the main body arm, and the 1.5 on the arms arm? or you using the 1.5" on both the main body arm and the arms arm...
> 
> Sorry if that was confusing.
> 
> Also, on the caution bar it says it was 20.75 long, but doesnt say which size tubing was used. I assumed the 1.75, but the drawing indicated the middle tube in smaller the the end tubes which are 1.75...I only assumed the middle section was 1.75 as he used 2 inch sliding pieces to hold the caution bars...
> 
> Also will 6 ft of each tubing be more than enough, or is it cutting it close?


It is easier to use the 1.75" tubing as the arm for the main body and 1.5" for the arm on the sliding body. That way the tubing for the arms match the tubing they are being mounted on, just looks a little cleaner and I think it's easier to mount the arms squarely.

Actually on the second page of the second set of plans it says 1.75" was used for the caution bar AND the end tubes. Remember the caution bar is optional, some people like it, others don't. If you don't put in the caution bar you can get by with a 4' piece of 1.75" tubing. 

6' of each size tubing will work. It just depends on how long you make your legs and how long you make your arms. If you use the dimensions that are on the plans then you will be fine with about 7" of the 1.75" and 10" of the 1.5" to spare. Then you would just have to make sure you measure twice and cut once because there would not be enough for mistakes.


----------



## codykrr

Thanks gunner.

I personally like the idea of the caution bar myself. I will just have to get enough tubing to do what I want. I am thinking of making legs, and a stand. At home it will be on a stand as I dont want the press taking up that much of my workbench, but I will make legs for when I want to take it somewhere.

BTW- are you all using the left or right handed acme rod? I want the wheel to turn right and close the press, and left to open it. (wheel mounted on the right side)


----------



## Gunner7800

codykrr said:


> Thanks gunner.
> 
> I personally like the idea of the caution bar myself. I will just have to get enough tubing to do what I want. I am thinking of making legs, and a stand. At home it will be on a stand as I dont want the press taking up that much of my workbench, but I will make legs for when I want to take it somewhere.
> 
> BTW- are you all using the left or right handed acme rod? I want the wheel to turn right and close the press, and left to open it. (wheel mounted on the right side)


Right handed.


----------



## Big Easy

I've been watching this thread for awhile now and I'm totally impressed with the work people have done. I'm getting supplies together now so that I can build a press of my own. I've asked a few of the metal workers in my area about cutting fingers for me and the prices they've quoted me have been quite high. If any of you are willing to make some fingers to sell for a fair price, would you please send me a pm? I'm excited about this build, but at the prices I've been quoted around here, I might not be able to afford it. Thanks.


----------



## 3-D Junkie

ymurf said:


> On mine I just used two pieces of angle iron welded back to back.Drilled the 1/2" through them rounded the tops to my liking and welded them to my press arms.They worked great with my fingers.


 Those welds look very cold. I think those finger mounts could come off.


----------



## E_T_BowHuntr

has anyone built one form regular sq tubing?....not nestable...if so does it bind when you run it in and out?


----------



## dw'struth

I may have missed it in the thread, but , not counting fingers, how much are you guys spending on materials?? thanks!


----------



## Gunner7800

E_T_BowHuntr said:


> has anyone built one form regular sq tubing?....not nestable...if so does it bind when you run it in and out?


My first was built from standard square tubing. There is quite a bit of slop and if you don't get the nut on the end of the sliding arm square it binds pretty bad. Something I didn't take into account was that the nut really can not be centered if the arm is going to ride on the bottom of the main body (it can be square just not centered). Because of the difference in sizes, the nut almost has to be higher in the sliding arm just to make sure it is in line with the center of the larger tube. (Make sense?) BUT, if you shim the sliding arm to be centered in the main body, then all is good. Maxtor shared a website in one of his threads, I believe it was for Slick Strips (basically teflon strips but different). These can be ordered in different thicknesses and attached however you like to center the sliding arm in the main body.

Short answers: yes you can build one out of regular tubing and yes it will bind UNLESS you take the necessary steps to prevent the binding.


----------



## Gunner7800

dw'struth said:


> I may have missed it in the thread, but , not counting fingers, how much are you guys spending on materials?? thanks!


Spent about $90, but I also pulled quite a few pieces from the scrap pile.


----------



## codykrr

Gunner7800 said:


> My first was built from standard square tubing. There is quite a bit of slop and if you don't get the nut on the end of the sliding arm square it binds pretty bad. Something I didn't take into account was that the nut really can not be centered if the arm is going to ride on the bottom of the main body (it can be square just not centered). Because of the difference in sizes, the nut almost has to be higher in the sliding arm just to make sure it is in line with the center of the larger tube. (Make sense?) BUT, if you shim the sliding arm to be centered in the main body, then all is good. Maxtor shared a website in one of his threads, I believe it was for Slick Strips (basically teflon strips but different). These can be ordered in different thicknesses and attached however you like to center the sliding arm in the main body.
> 
> Short answers: yes you can build one out of regular tubing and yes it will bind UNLESS you take the necessary steps to prevent the binding.


I believe I read somewhere in this thread where someone used a cheap .97 cent cutting board to shim the arm too.


----------



## 92safari

If you take a peek at the first couple pages of my Slimline build thread; I use all standard square tubing and illustrate centering the nut and screw as well as shimming the gap with fender washers instead of plastic. If you get binding its more because of the screw and nut not being lined up right rather than the tubing used.


E_T_BowHuntr said:


> has anyone built one form regular sq tubing?....not nestable...if so does it bind when you run it in and out?


----------



## E_T_BowHuntr

alrighty...i got nestable tubing.. so how long does yalls acme rod end up being?..i got my hands on 1" and the nut was too big so i milled it to fit inside the 1 1/2 with a .04" gap. wi9ll have to turn the other end down to 3/4 to fit my mill handle. also using the 1" flange bearing with set screws.


----------



## codykrr

Just did a quote for my parts from Mcmastercarr....

Ouch..

Total was $123.78. Thats before shipping, before fingers, and not including any plate, 2 inch tube, tube for the stand, or the tube I want to build the draw board. probably looking at 200 plus!!! 

I am going to call around locally this week(hopefully someplace opens) and get a quote. Might be longer than I thought before I get to building one now...

Also can someone help me with the design of my draw board attachment? I pretty much got it down, but the problem is I dont know how the Bow a constrictor Quick draw/tune attachment works(which is what I am trying to replicate on my press)

here is a link with my plans. I plan on building my press with removable legs, that means the safety guard can be taken off those style legs, and put onto the stand I will build for my garage.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1643409


----------



## jrdrees

Good to see the creation goes on!


----------



## ru4auto

nice plans


----------



## protonvx

And to think I run a machine shop and I was actually thinking of buying a press until I found this forum. Thanks everyone for the ideas and plans. BTW, if anyone wants to send me a file for the best or most current style fingers, I could start making them and possibly selling them real cheap (like cost plus shipping). I have access to cheap metal and have a waterjet! I am actually dead serious.


----------



## fishuntbike

just a friendly reminder...selling this finger outloud may cause you trouble due to patent issue. but good that we know whom to contact in case of maching/water jet work.



protonvx said:


> And to think I run a machine shop and I was actually thinking of buying a press until I found this forum. Thanks everyone for the ideas and plans. BTW, if anyone wants to send me a file for the best or most current style fingers, I could start making them and possibly selling them real cheap (like cost plus shipping). I have access to cheap metal and have a waterjet! I am actually dead serious.


----------



## protonvx

Thanks for the heads up fishuntbike. However, I would imagine that as long as the finger is not identical to the finger that is patented it would be ok. When I make mine, I will play with the design anyways so that it fits the past parallel limbs better than the normal design.

We do Aerospace work, ie Rolls-Royce and GE engine parts. We do everything from stamping to machining to welding here, the only things we don't do is 5-axis machining, laser cutting, or any surface coatings. We do all of our own tool making (fixtures, dies, jigs, etc.). That used to be my specialty (tool & die maker), now I sit behind a desk most of the day


----------



## capt ray

For those that have painted or powder coated their press, did you have any clearance issues between the main body and arm?


----------



## tllhunter

painted mine and had minor scrapes in the paint after assembling the press but not once assembled and working. Wish I had powder coated it but was also concerned about clearance.


----------



## fishuntbike

I addressed that issue prior to powder coating and considered the thickness of powder coat.works well for me


----------



## capt ray

Looking to apply the coating to my fingers. What has stood up better, industrial heat shrink or something like "dip and grip?"


----------



## guido316

I've been satisfied with the run of the mill tool dip. I dipped my fingers a couple of times and they seem to hold up pretty well.


----------



## Gunner7800

guido316 said:


> I've been satisfied with the run of the mill tool dip. I dipped my fingers a couple of times and they seem to hold up pretty well.


+1, couple coats of tool dip has held up fine.


----------



## capt ray

Gunner7800 said:


> +1, couple coats of tool dip has held up fine.


Is there a major difference between tool dip and liquid electrical tape?


----------



## Gunner7800

capt ray said:


> Is there a major difference between tool dip and liquid electrical tape?


Don't think I've ever heard of liquid electrical tape. What is it, what is the name brand?


----------



## capt ray

Gunner7800 said:


> Don't think I've ever heard of liquid electrical tape. What is it, what is the name brand?


It is very simular to tool dip but provides a waterproof seal and is not as soft nor as thick. It will take a few more applications.


----------



## vertigo01

Hi I am a newbie here to At and would like to introduce myself and also try my hand at building a slimline press. 
What is the reasoning behind using the nestable steel tubing? Price? Strength? Would alum square tubing work as long as the wall thickness was sufficient say double that of steel?


----------



## capt ray

vertigo01 said:


> Hi I am a newbie here to At and would like to introduce myself and also try my hand at building a slimline press.
> What is the reasoning behind using the nestable steel tubing? Price? Strength? Would alum square tubing work as long as the wall thickness was sufficient say double that of steel?


First off welcome...I am no expert at press building or metal fabrication but I believe the reasoning on using nestable tubing is the lack of a weld seam allowing closer tolerances. The price is not very high at all. Look at the materials list in the first page of the thread and it gives prices. I am sure there are better qualified members who could comment on the use of aluminum vice steel.


----------



## Tunaboy

Please see my post on a " No Weld Press" I used uni strut and fingers bought here. Not too pretty but does a good job. The strut was $20, the screw was from a jack I had. The fingers were the most expensive part but work good.


----------



## vertigo01

Thank's Capt. Ray for the welcome.
The reason I ask about the alum is I have was thinking about using extruded alum square tubing, but didn't know whether I should double or triple the thickness as compared to the steel square tubing..

Thank's tunaboy I'll check it out.


----------



## big ike

I need a set of fingers for my press build , pm me info. of someone who makes these. thanks


----------



## dpetsel

Sorry I'm a new guy.....
Wrong thread.


----------



## SeeMont

Just finishing up my press after looking at the parts for a few months. Pictures will follow. I used regular steel tubing and just put down a couple spot welds on the inside of the pipe to take up any slop, worked great, just hit them with a file to adjust. I bet I only have about $75.00 in materials and I paid $35.00 for my fingers. I used an old steering wheel for a crank wheel.


----------



## 01masterdiver

Im a newby to your forum and like the work I see here and want to build a press similar to the ones shown. Does anyone have a cad drawing of the fingers that I could use? What lenght are the fingers? Will 3/8" steel work for the fingers? Where are the plans for the press located in the forum?

Thanks for any help

DFS


----------



## 01masterdiver

where did you buy your fingers? how long are they?

thanks,

DFS


----------



## SeeMont

Welcome. the plans for the press is at the start of the thread, with additions thought all the pages. This plan has expanded with many adaptations. There are a number of other threads if you do a search. As far as finding fingers, there is a Copy Right issue so be aware. Again there are a number of threads addressing this. Good Luck.


----------



## 01masterdiver

Thanks seemont, i appreciate the reply

dfs


----------



## 67raiders

Can anyone help me find some hangers and mounts for my coat rack? Thankyou


----------



## Komi

ttt


----------



## 67raiders

Ttt


----------



## Out West

*Spring Steel*

I'm looking for that "spring steel" material to help keep backwards tension on the press fingers. I talked to a local metal place, and they didn't know what I was talking about when I mentioned "spring steel". Is there a different name that it goes by for those of you that have used it? That is the final piece to complete the construction of my press.

Is there an online place to purchase it? Any help appreciated!!!!!


----------



## windtech007

try here

http://www.clock-parts.com/index.htm


----------



## Gunner7800

Use a rubber band.


----------



## Out West

Gunner7800 said:


> Use a rubber band.


Believe me I've thought about that, but I would prefer the metal alternative if I can find the right pieces.


----------



## ruttnwapati

Out West said:


> Believe me I've thought about that, but I would prefer the metal alternative if I can find the right pieces.


Try asking for some stainless steel shim stock. Thickness of .009 or .010 seem to support aluminum fingers well. Comes in sheets of 5"x7" or something close to that.


----------



## RatherBArchery

I tried steel banding/strapping material but it has too much memory to it!! Works for awhile but stretches over time. I have also thought about drilling the bottom and inserting springs???? Not much room between the 1/2" pin and the face or the finger though??!! I just hate the looks of using rubber bands!!


----------



## Out West

ruttnwapati said:


> Try asking for some stainless steel shim stock. Thickness of .009 or .010 seem to support aluminum fingers well. Comes in sheets of 5"x7" or something close to that.


Thanks for the input.


----------



## Out West

RatherBArchery said:


> I tried steel banding/strapping material but it has too much memory to it!! Works for awhile but stretches over time. I have also thought about drilling the bottom and inserting springs???? Not much room between the 1/2" pin and the face or the finger though??!! I just hate the looks of using rubber bands!!


I attempted to use the spring idea. I drilled a small hole in the bottom of one of the fingers, but the spring didn't stay in because there was nothing to hold the spring on the base of the press (especially when you slide the fingers).

I was at my local metal shop and they had some small sheets of thin aluminum that was flimsy. I bought a sheet thinking maybe it would be springy enough to work. Haven't been able to try it yet. I would still like to find the same type of material that you can find on the "factory" press.


----------



## McDragon

Drill the hole in the bas of the finger far enough back from the front edge. The drill & tap for a 1/4x20 bolt or set screw. That should hold the spring in place. The alternative would be a piece of soft rubber.


----------



## 67raiders

Finally got it assembled before tear down and powder coat. 

This is an awesome thread. Thanks for all the input.

Im going to get some shim stock tomorrow. And try it out.

Thanks everybody.


----------



## cacciatore141

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the info regardig the Bow press I have a few questions and if some one can pls draw pictures for me. 
1. What components go into the the inner part of the square tubing of the press ? For the life of me I can't seem to figure it out. :embara:
I have attached a little diagram I have drawn up ( great cad skill ) please let me know where i have gone wrong.

2.what length should the ACME bar be as I have 39" of ACME bar.
3. Does anyone have a diagram where I can add a draw system to the press.


Thanks again for all the help your soonest advice would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## 67raiders

cacciatore141,

I just assembled mine. I welded a nut inside the slider (inner arm) on the end piece. If your using 3/4 acme rod and 1.5" tubing for the inner arm you will have to grind the edges off the nut on two sides for it to fit.

i would build your press and assemble it for a dry run before cutting your acme rod. i built my press with 26" arms i believe my 
rods 28 to 30"

as for assembly--- from left to right 

inside main arm-coller,washer, thrust bearing,washer, end of main arm bushing,Washer,thrust bearing,washer,acme nut,handwheel

I put a nut on the end because the first bow i pressed the coller by my hand wheel slipped a bit. so i put a nut on it. better safe than sorry.

hope that helps. theres also a pic of the assembled parts laid out. in the thread some where.


----------



## 67raiders

Also if your going to put a draw attachment on it. i would put a nut in side the main arm. just because it cant slip like a coller.

Im going to try drilling and tapping a acme nut for a set screw. that way you can lock the nut down in place.

goodluck.


----------



## Out West

We built our presses to combo as both a press and draw board. We used 1 3/4" tube for the main body and 1 1/2" tube for the inner sleeve and press arms. We than used small sections of 1 3/4" tube as sleeve attachments to slide over the 1 1/2" press arms. We drilled a hole and used a locking pin to hold the sleeves on. This way we have 1 3/4" sleeves to work as a press, and then we can pull that sleeve off and install a different sleeve to use as our draw board attachments. It seems to work great.....


----------



## Praeger

klean1 had a simple solution to the finger problem, with credit to him, here's his press:


----------



## thwacker

Torsion springs is what you're looking for I believe. Look on Ebay 



Out West said:


> I'm looking for that "spring steel" material to help keep backwards tension on the press fingers. I talked to a local metal place, and they didn't know what I was talking about when I mentioned "spring steel". Is there a different name that it goes by for those of you that have used it? That is the final piece to complete the construction of my press.
> 
> Is there an online place to purchase it? Any help appreciated!!!!!


----------



## 67raiders

Ttt


----------



## ruttnwapati

Praeger said:


> klean1 had a simple solution to the finger problem, with credit to him, here's his press:
> 
> View attachment 1290508


 What's going on here? Swear that is the same press? Maybe not.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1212601&highlight=harbor+freight+jack


----------



## codykrr

Cant find it in here, but know its somewhere.

I am wanting my press to double as a draw board. I know there is another nut or something that needs to be added to do so. can someone explain please?


----------



## Unk Bond

codykrr said:


> Cant find it in here, but know its somewhere.
> 
> I am wanting my press to double as a draw board. I know there is another nut or something that needs to be added to do so. can someone explain please?



=================

Hello All
U might do a search for the 2 presses I built.

Looking at this one. U need to use box tubing. Instead of a angle.

Weld a nut on to, a square piece of metal. Weld the square piece of metal, to the end of the box tubing. Might add here there is a hole behind the nut in the square plate.

Now take a 1/2 inch long shank bolt. Cut bolt head off. Screw long bolt,into the plate you welded to the box tubing. Slip a piece of rubber hose over the bolt. [ Later


----------



## zslayer

Just built me some press fingers....


----------



## Unk Bond

zslayer said:


> Just built me some press fingers....
> View attachment 1304291


=================


Hello All
The look great. They should do the job. :thumbs_up [ Later


----------



## 70oldsracer

BrownDog2 said:


> First thanks to everyone for answering all of my questions. I could not have done this without the people of AT. I have use a little bit of every ones ideas and then put a twist of some of them. Some parts of this are a serious overkill, but I wanted to experiment with some of my ideas. On the slider tube the nut is encased in a “box” so the nut floats and will not bind if everything is not aligned. The press stand is built so that you can turn the bow 360 degrees. I also made the fingers so I can remove them. I plan on adding a draw board to this also.


I was wondering if anyone can tell me where I could get brackets like the ones in the 5th picture from the top. I would also like to make my press able to turn 360 degrees. Well the pics didn't post, but this is from page 4 post # 119.


----------



## Praeger

> What's going on here? Swear that is the same press? Maybe not.
> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...r+freight+jack


My mistake - here's the press cklean1 made. 
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1703659

Too many bow press threads open when I was copying and pasting. The photo in my first post was made by thwack6.


----------



## 67raiders

Heres my press after powder coat.


----------



## Gunner7800

67raiders said:


> Heres my press after powder coat.


Do you have any clearance issues with the powder coat? I didn't know if it would be too thick with the nestable tubing.


----------



## JCHB

*Twenty buck Bowtech press???*

I've joined the thread a bit late in the day but my question is will this press be able to handle a Bowtech Invasion with beyond parallel limbs?
JCHB


----------



## fredoZ7

new to AT but i have been wanting to build a press like this, started reading the first part with the orig. drawings they look great but two years old and it looks like yall have changed alot or modified...i was wondering if there is an upto date drawing, the 17 pages is alot to go through and try to figure out but i do want to say the ideas on this site and this thread are great and just want to say Thanks


----------



## huntinfool84

all i can say about this build is MAKE SURE THE NUT IS CENTERED!!! ya i found that out the hard way. thanks for the plans and designs everyone.


----------



## codykrr

JCHB said:


> I've joined the thread a bit late in the day but my question is will this press be able to handle a Bowtech Invasion with beyond parallel limbs?
> JCHB


Yes, this style press will press an invasion. along with bow-a-constrictor and apple edge. This is what bowtech recommends actually.


----------



## JCHB

Cody, thanks for the tip. Is there a specific set of fingers for the invasion (split limbs)? Can you believe it that the only two bowshops in my area do not have presses that can take my invasion?????
JCHB


----------



## Gunner7800

fredoZ7 said:


> new to AT but i have been wanting to build a press like this, started reading the first part with the orig. drawings they look great but two years old and it looks like yall have changed alot or modified...i was wondering if there is an upto date drawing, the 17 pages is alot to go through and try to figure out but i do want to say the ideas on this site and this thread are great and just want to say Thanks


There are no more updated drawings. I have since changed jobs so I no longer have access to drafting software. I hate to say it but the best thing you can do is actually go through all the pages. There is a lot of redundant information, seems like the same question gets asked every couple months. But there is also a lot a new information and changes to design that people have done.


----------



## codykrr

JCHB said:


> Cody, thanks for the tip. Is there a specific set of fingers for the invasion (split limbs)? Can you believe it that the only two bowshops in my area do not have presses that can take my invasion?????
> JCHB


Well, they say you need one for a bow that has the draw stop, but you can get by with the normal fingers. The shop I went to did just fine, he changed my draw length, took cam lean out...timed/synced my cams...with the same fingers posted on here a few times.


----------



## 67raiders

Gunner. 

Theres plenty of room for 
powder coat. Went with a smooth finish versus a textured powder coat. Because I was afraid it wouldnt fit. After its all said an done pretty sure you could use textured powder coat. 

Great plans press works great.


----------



## 67raiders

I just looked my press over good. 

Depending on how thick the textured powdercoat is, it may not fit. I would do a trial run on a couple sample pieces first. With the satin black it fits really good.


----------



## pse8point

gunner i am an inventor user have you ever tried using inventor. Much easier than auto cad for 3d. If you want any of these done in inventor let me know. I design big rigs and other mechanical stuff. We are getting a burn table soon and i cant wait to test it out. How about we come up with a finger design and get them burned during the testing period. Of course if i am allowed. LOL


----------



## codykrr

hey what are yall making your T handles out of?


----------



## Gunner7800

pse8point said:


> gunner i am an inventor user have you ever tried using inventor. Much easier than auto cad for 3d. If you want any of these done in inventor let me know. I design big rigs and other mechanical stuff. We are getting a burn table soon and i cant wait to test it out. How about we come up with a finger design and get them burned during the testing period. Of course if i am allowed. LOL


Do you know what the cost of the inventor license is? Since it is a program from Autodesk it cannot be very cheap. I have been using AutoCAD since college which was R12 so I've become very familiar with it. I know it's worlds better than Microstation but haven't had a chance to use many other programs.


----------



## Gunner7800

Gunner7800 said:


> Do you know what the cost of the inventor license is? Since it is a program from Autodesk it cannot be very cheap. I have been using AutoCAD since college which was R12 so I've become very familiar with it. I know it's worlds better than Microstation but haven't had a chance to use many other programs.


Ha, just looked it up online. A suite package starts at $6500 so I guess it ain't happnin.


----------



## pse8point

I thought you were using it with your company. The capabilities are endless. You can create the drawing at one level then it automatically updates the other drawings if you make a change. Also updates the B.O.M.'s as well. I have seen it cut my design and drawing time in half. Just a thought. I used to do everything by orthographic projection. Now i draw up each part. Put it together. Then in drawing mode drag the views where i want it. You can places sections through any part. I know its pricey but the time saved on drawing time might be more cost effection. This is coming from someone who used cad since high school.


----------



## Gunner7800

I did use it with my job, but I have since relocated and no longer have access to any cad software. Therefore I'm looking for something inexpensive that I can use at home. It really doesn't matter what software it is as long as it's CHEAP. I can learn about anything except rocket surgery.


----------



## Out West

huntinfool84 said:


> all i can say about this build is MAKE SURE THE NUT IS CENTERED!!! ya i found that out the hard way. thanks for the plans and designs everyone.


For my inner sleave, I used 1 1/2" tubing and the nut fit really snug on the inside. We had to tap it in. So it was basically self centering, and fit snug enough to where we were able to weld it in place without trying to hold it or shim it in place.


----------



## Gunner7800

Out West said:


> For my inner sleave, I used 1 1/2" tubing and the nut fit really snug on the inside. We had to tap it in. So it was basically self centering, and fit snug enough to where we were able to weld it in place without trying to hold it or shim it in place.


Doing this will CENTER the nut in the tubing but it does not mean that the nut is SQUARE with the tube. About the easiest thing you can do is put another nut in the opposite end of the tube and run the acme rod through both. Then the one nut can be welded or tacked in place.


----------



## SeeMont

I rough fit my acme net into my square tubing and then ran the acme tread rod through the nut. I drilled holes on all four sides of my square tubing and did my tacks from the outside. I think backing up the nut to be welded in with another nut would help, I only had one so for me it was not an option. My press runs very smooth.


----------



## bhanisch

:thumbs_up


----------



## rnfarley

Just finished the build last night, now it's time to paint and dip the fingers and it's all done...


----------



## justshutupnhunt

Nice press. I'll be working on mine soon.


----------



## NoDeerInIowa

nice fingers. lol


----------



## TRDJer

Hey Guys, One question I have for everyone with these presses is when you have your bow compressed, do you require any sort of lock on the handle to keep the wheel from loosing the tension off? or will it stay put?


----------



## dw'struth

They will stay put....


----------



## ORbuck

Best 17 pages i have ever read..... Thanks for this Gunner. So pumped i dont think i will sleep tonight, or at least ill have dreams of different designs.


----------



## completepassthru

Looks pretty good.


----------



## Out West

Gunner7800 said:


> Doing this will CENTER the nut in the tubing but it does not mean that the nut is SQUARE with the tube. About the easiest thing you can do is put another nut in the opposite end of the tube and run the acme rod through both. Then the one nut can be welded or tacked in place.


Since the nut fit in the tubing very snug, we used an L-square or T-square tool (not sure what you call it) and just checked the squareness of the nut to the tubing front to back and side to side, and tapped on the nut where needed until square. Pretty simple and worked well. I haven't completed the cosmetics of my press yet (been dragging my feet with other projects), but I used the press on my bow for the first time a couple weeks ago and it worked fine.


----------



## ORbuck

Started building mine today. I am still looking for someone to cut me some fingers out for a good price here locally.


----------



## jrdrees

Great thread here, keeps on giving!


----------



## Wjackson11x

Started mine today and have a question. For those of you using the flange bearing, are y'all just using the one flat piece of metal for the end (where the bearing is mounted with 4 bolts) or are y'all welding an end cap to the tube as well? I'm thinking the one plate would be enough, but wanted to check first.


----------



## dw'struth

Has anyone found a way to operate their finished press without the paint being scraped off in certain places?? thanks


----------



## Big Easy

Gunner, or anyone else who has used his plans, does the acme nut fit properly inside of the small tube as is, or am I going to need to do some grinding on the nut to get it to fit inside? Thank you in advance for the help. By the way, great presses guys.


----------



## Hntndad

If your using 1-1/2 nestable tubing like in the plans you will have to grind a 3/4 acme nut on 2 corners for it to fit. I wont take much! I suggest using the nestable tubing from mcmasters. Less slop.


----------



## Big Easy

Thanks. Any need for shims at all with the nestable to prevent slop/bind?


----------



## Hntndad

No need. The very little slop is taken up once pressure is applied. Binding is contigent upon how centered and square that acme nut is to the bushing/bearing you are using. Pm me if you need any help


----------



## Gunner7800

Hntndad said:


> No need. The very little slop is taken up once pressure is applied. Binding is contigent upon how centered and square that acme nut is to the bushing/bearing you are using. Pm me if you need any help


+1
Be sure to at least use one other nut on the opposite end of the tube and run your acme rod through both to get the nut to center properly in the tube. There may be another way to do this but to me this is the easiest.


----------



## Big Easy

Thank you. I'm really looking forward to this build. I just need to get access to a welder. The one I had access to earlier has kind of fallen through. I wish I had one of my own, but I don't have the cash necessary to drop on a decent welder right now.


----------



## dw'struth

Big Easy said:


> Thank you. I'm really looking forward to this build. I just need to get access to a welder. The one I had access to earlier has kind of fallen through. I wish I had one of my own, but I don't have the cash necessary to drop on a decent welder right now.


You can find the older version (the blue ones) of the 220v from Harbor Freight for around $100. If any HF near you happens to still have one, you should be able to get it new for close to that as it would be on closeout. I know how people feel about the HF welders, but this one will weld the tubing that you need to weld set on the next to lowest setting.


----------



## gutpilz

Thanks... Subscribed


----------



## NastyRash

I'd be interested in a set of fingers. Anybody making them or with a set, please PM me. Thanks!


----------



## lc12

dw'struth said:


> Has anyone found a way to operate their finished press without the paint being scraped off in certain places?? thanks


Consider the scraped paint as "beauty marks"! lol
I know guys that won't shoot their rifles for fear of getting marks on them. Not much use if kept in a safe!
It is difficult to protect the paint with these presses as you have pressure points from compressing the bow and then you have the "play" of the materials used.
I would not worry about it unless your press is binding so bad that you cannot use it.


----------



## w259 buffalo

I'm also building a press and wonder what the min. and max. distance is needed between the fingers? For travel of the press.
Any ideas? thanks


----------



## 92safari

Keep the minimum 2-3" shorter than your bow.


----------



## w259 buffalo

I was trying to make it pretty universal. What would be a real short axle to axle bow? 28" maybe.


----------



## JMedlin0511

anybody making the fingers for these presses...pm me please...


----------



## muddyboots

Yes, please. Trying to get a quote from somebody local, but taking a while. 



JMedlin0511 said:


> anybody making the fingers for these presses...pm me please...


----------



## pa_archer

I just posted a set of fingers for sale if anyone is interested. They are in the general accessories.


----------



## speedgoat

thanks gunner, safari and all others for contributing info on this site
Bump it up


----------



## Onytay

Thank you for the drawings and parts list, this as made it very simple to gather all the needed materials for my press! Thank you! Cant wait to get it built and put to use!


----------



## Onytay

With the plans calling for 24" tubes, what is the longest ata bow you guys are pressing and still having an expectable amount of inner tube left inside for support? What's the smallest ata bow you are able to press?


----------



## Onytay

Onytay said:


> With the plans calling for 24" tubes, what is the longest ata bow you guys are pressing and still having an expectable amount of inner tube left inside for support? What's the smallest ata bow you are able to press?


Anyone have an idea?


----------



## bpbiggamehunter

Ttt


----------



## mallardsx2

Why not just secude the handle and press on the limbs below the cam and wheel instead messing around with these silly fingers?


----------



## fishuntbike

Most bows now are parallel or even beyond parallel in which pressing on the limbs is not an option.


----------



## whatupwitcha

Excellent thread and thanks Gunner.
I have a Omen and I am wondering about the limbs being not parallel. Is there a preferred finger style needed or just use ones posted? Has anyone presses an PSE Omen and if so do you have any advise?


----------



## Gunner7800

whatupwitcha said:


> Excellent thread and thanks Gunner.
> I have a Omen and I am wondering about the limbs being not parallel. Is there a preferred finger style needed or just use ones posted? Has anyone presses an PSE Omen and if so do you have any advise?


Happy to do it.

I have not pressed an Omen so I don't have an answer for you. I'm sure somebody around here has though.


----------



## Big Easy

I was at PSE this spring and toured their factory while I was there. Every press they have there is an LCA linear press. They told us they were the best press to use for their bows hands down. Omen should not be any problem. We pressed several of them while we were there.


----------



## whatupwitcha

Big easy, When they were pressing any of the bows did they use an adapter of any sort mounted on the limbs?


----------



## Big Easy

Nope, no adapters at all. I even asked them about it and they said there was no issue.


----------



## bpbiggamehunter

After my brother took his bow to the store yesterday just to have a new string and cable installed with a rest and it costed 117$ I've decided that it's time to make one of these linear bow press's. I've given my cousin the plans to see if he could make it and has all the supplies at the local shop where he works and he does so I've given him the green light to build me one. He asked me if it would be okay to use just a normal 3/4 inch threaded rod instead of the acme because it is a lot cheaper. Is there a big difference between the two or should I just stick to the acme rod? Thanks to everyone on here that has contributed to this thread!


----------



## lunk2002

I believe the acme rod has a much more coarse thread. It will take fewer revolutions to move the press plus it is stronger.


----------



## lifesadrag

You might as well go with the acme rod for the little added cost. The fingers are what cost me the most.


----------



## bpbiggamehunter

Yeah he tried the normal rod and said it took 10 revolutions to move an inch so he is going to go with the acme rod in the end going to cost more but I am relieved because it's what the plans recommend.


----------



## hoody120

about how much does this press cost to make.


----------



## hoody120

can someone PM me the Price. thanks


----------



## tllhunter

mine cost 125-150 for parts. Welding was free, thanks to my stepson. Thank you Justin.


----------



## vastomper

Tagged for later

Sent from my DROID3


----------



## killzone88

If any one has some fingers layin around or can make some for me please pm me


----------



## lc12

I spent about $140 on mine, complete, and did my own welding.
I enjoyed the project, but if time is of value to you just buy the EZ Green. I did spend some hours on mine but ended up with a far superior press!


----------



## Bonecrusher86

I want fingers too. If anybody can make me some pm me as we'll please. Thanks


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## indyEL1TE

*Press*

Just finished my press using the plans in this thread. I had a buddy make the fingers and help with the welding. I think it turned out great and works very well. I used a pillow bearing and some 1 1/2" round stock to get the press to turn up on end. Thanks for the plans, I probably have less than $200 in it.


----------



## Gunner7800

Very nice. 

I keep wanting to rebuild my press so I can incorporate some of the tweeks people have added to their presses throughout this thread. I have yet to find the time.


----------



## thwacker

I have watched this thread since day one watching Gunner7800 how he made his press and made available all the prints and parts #'s and I'm just about ready to dive in as soon as we get some nicer weather, in that my bow shop is in my mini-barn. I picked up a Harbor Freight 90 amp flux welder and getting ready to get a 3.5 hp cutoff saw, I've got my fingers (coat hooks), all the nestable tubing that I need. I even bought a trailer jack just in case I want to build one like that.
Some might say that I spent too much and should've just bought a press from LCA, but how much fun would that be. I can re-use everything that I've bought so nothing will be wasted. I've got some honey-do lists that are endless.... believe me.
So I basically wanted to thank Gunner7800 first off and lc12 for their contribution to this project. Here's my fingers and blocks.
I've got the pipe clamp press and the old trusty Bow Master press, but I need one where it's a little easier and prettier.I've gotten alot of ideas from everyone....thanks


----------



## Hang 'em High

Great thread.


----------



## dw'struth

I was wondering if replacing the bearings listed in the begining of this thread, with some other type of bearing (open to suggestions), would result in a smoother machine? Has anyone played around with different options? Thanks!


----------



## lifesadrag

It's plenty smooth enough with the original bearings.


----------



## stumpwizard

I have been watching the press builds here for some time now.. my local Archery pro shop closed a few years back (victim of big box stores and the internet) - no competent shops within 45 minutes of where I live so build time for me and my shooting partner - thanks to Gunner and everyone who took the time to document and share their builds - ours is finished ( still waiting on the crank handle to arrive) and we changed strings on a Drenalin and my Vendetta XL today - (installed quality Proline strings on them both)


----------



## lc12

thwacker said:


> I have watched this thread since day one watching Gunner7800 how he made his press and made available all the prints and parts #'s and I'm just about ready to dive in as soon as we get some nicer weather, in that my bow shop is in my mini-barn. I picked up a Harbor Freight 90 amp flux welder and getting ready to get a 3.5 hp cutoff saw, I've got my fingers (coat hooks), all the nestable tubing that I need. I even bought a trailer jack just in case I want to build one like that.
> Some might say that I spent too much and should've just bought a press from LCA, but how much fun would that be. I can re-use everything that I've bought so nothing will be wasted. I've got some honey-do lists that are endless.... believe me.
> So I basically wanted to thank Gunner7800 first off and lc12 for their contribution to this project. Here's my fingers and blocks.
> I've got the pipe clamp press and the old trusty Bow Master press, but I need one where it's a little easier and prettier.I've gotten alot of ideas from everyone....thanks
> View attachment 1561188


Thank you for the kind words Thwacker.
Gunner7800 gets the credit for the great plans. I just compiled the information to make it easier for everyone. This is probably the greatest DIY thread there ever was on this site!
I know I had a great time building my own press, and customizing it to my needs. I will put mine against the commercial model any day! Mine operates more smoothly and can be adapted to do other jobs in my shop.
Not to take anything away from the commercial press as it is a nice product, but I feel was overpriced for what it is, as apparently did the rest of us that built our own.
And instead of reaping the benefits of a lot of sales if only they had dropped the price to a reasonable amount, they went the other way and started making.............................well that is another issue altogether!
I have also enjoyed seeing what others have built and some of the ideas that they have brought forth too!
Good luck to those that continue with their projects and happy new year to all of you.
Lets keep sharing our ideas as this site is indeed "archers helping archers"!!!


----------



## dw'struth

lifesadrag said:


> It's plenty smooth enough with the original bearings.


I've built 2 of them, working on my 3rd, and they are great, but not "final opportunity" smooth. I think some type of bearing in the end-cap could make a difference. I'm also trying a larger, heavier wheel on this one, which could also make a big difference. I'll report back.....

While I have your attention.....is one type of grease any better than another for use on the bearings?


----------



## Gunner7800

dw'struth said:


> I've built 2 of them, working on my 3rd, and they are great, but not "final opportunity" smooth. I think some type of bearing in the end-cap could make a difference. I'm also trying a larger, heavier wheel on this one, which could also make a big difference. I'll report back.....
> 
> While I have your attention.....is one type of grease any better than another for use on the bearings?


Let us know how it works. I'm going to rebuild my original press that I used to make the plans, it works good but it could be smoother.


----------



## 92safari

I guess I'm probably missing something, but is the smoothness issue something to do with the stock jacks, or is it something to do with a modification?


Gunner7800 said:


> Let us know how it works. I'm going to rebuild my original press that I used to make the plans, it works good but it could be smoother.


----------



## Gunner7800

92safari said:


> I guess I'm probably missing something, but is the smoothness issue something to do with the stock jacks, or is it something to do with a modification?


I didn't use a jack in my build. My problem is that I slopped everything together when I built mine since I was trying to develop functional plans from as-built parts (basically from the seat of my pants). So my press is ugly and doesn't operate as well as I think it should. And I would like to incorporate a few of the modifications other folks have developed throughout this thread.


----------



## dw'struth

92safari said:


> I guess I'm probably missing something, but is the smoothness issue something to do with the stock jacks, or is it something to do with a modification?


Yeah, I am building from scratch too. My others have been smooth, but I am looking (hoping) for spin the wheel and watch it go!....smooth. lol

I do think that my 8" wheel, compared to the 5" that I used previously, will make a significant difference. I'll report back...


----------



## lc12

dw'struth said:


> Yeah, I am building from scratch too. My others have been smooth, but I am looking (hoping) for spin the wheel and watch it go!....smooth. lol
> 
> I do think that my 8" wheel, compared to the 5" that I used previously, will make a significant difference. I'll report back...


If you go with a pillar block bearing instead of thrust washers you will get a "spin the wheel and watch it go...press. This is what I used and like I said, I will put my press against the commercial model any day!
And Gunner7800. Don't beat yourself up to bad. Somebody had to throw the first one out there and because you did is why there are so many great modifications out there.
92safari's press is another great one, of which I also built, and I love his press "finger" design.


----------



## ILOVE3D

As stated before, I also think this is probably the best ever DIY thread. Many on here have built their own press and yes, the cost usually comes out to between 100 and 200 bucks it's less than half of what the commercial ones go for. Understand that not everybody has the knowledge or equipment to build one of these than the commercial is the way to go. Not everyone needs such a nice press either as lots of guys take their bows to archery shops for work. Thanks again Gunner and Lc12 for all the help. I have used mine more than I ever thought I would. It's just so nice to have a press that works so good and easy to use.


----------



## dw'struth

Checking back in about the effect of using a larger wheel.........

I have used a 5", relatively lightweight, whell in the past, and went with an 8" wheel this time that is probably more than twice the weight of the 5". I haven't played with it a lot, but I can tell that the larger and heavier wheel is definitely worth the extra money if it is smoothness that you seek. Not to mention the fact that it looks a lot nicer! I'll try to get a pic up when I get the finishing touches on it, but I don't think that will happen until the temps rise a little.
'


----------



## toddwagner

awsome thread! good job by everyone involved! i want to build one but would like to purchase the fingers "coat racks" from someone . 
anyone interested in making them pm me please. thanks guys you all RULE!!!!!


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello All

Guys a few things I have learned, from building 3 bow presses/
I have stressed one before.

But would like to use it again, and add on to it.
I learned this by accident, serving a center serving on my bow press.

Those two arms that stick out. Heres what you might do with them. I find them so handy.
Cut a small block of steel just to fit inside the arm box tubing.Dill and tap a 1/2 inch threaded hole in the center of each block.

Now slide that block into the box tubing. Leaving a little shoulder ,sticking out.To well on.
Buy a 6 or 8 inch 1/2 inch smooth shank bolt. Cut the head off. Slide a auto rubber hose over it. Screw it into the block.


============

1. Don't weld the finger base plate to the arms. Just cut 2 pieces of box tubing. 6 inch that will slide over the two arms. Now take and drill two 9/32 inch holes on one side of the box tubing. Now take two 1/2 inch full threaded bolts. And two 1/2 inch nuts.

Screw the bolts into the nuts. Place the two bolts into the two holes on the side of the box tubing sleeve. And tack weld the the nuts to the side of the box tubing sleeve. To be on your right. When slid on the right arm. And on the left side on the left arm.

Now you can tack weld your finger base to the top of the sleeves. If needed very easy to remove to adapt other archery equipment to those arms or other things that might come to mind. Like I just ran intnce the finger bases are welded on the arms. Then all they are good for is to press with move 

==========

Now for the goody part.you can rest your bow on it. And serve your bow string.
I plan to take the two big 6 inch bolts out. And mount to the 2 threaded holes a adapter to stretch a new bow string being built to 300 pounds. Just another way.[ Later


----------



## Gunner7800

Thanks for the info Unk, do you have any pics?


----------



## toddwagner

anyone making "coat hooks" pm me with a price!!!!
i want to get them before proceding with the build. thanks


----------



## Unk Bond

Gunner7800 said:


> Thanks for the info Unk, do you have any pics?


Hello All
Gunner didn't want to clutter up here.
So I started another tread to show you the pictures.Heres is the link.
If it dosen't work. I will post them here. 
Now my plans are to revamp my small wall bow press base. From 6 feet to 12. So I can use my power bow press to strech strings, and make strings. By useing two 8 inch sleevs slid on to the bow press arms of the bow press. To except my 2 string bases.
Will post a pic later. Will start Monday on this project.
Later
Friend Unk



http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1945581&p=1066421959&posted=1#post1066421959


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello All

Here you go Gunner, and all. On what we was talking about. [Later


----------



## dw'struth

I was browsing Mcmaster's web page, and noticed that they offer the 3/4" acme thread rod in a 5-pitch. Has anyone used this instead of the 6-pitch??


----------



## lc12

dw'struth said:


> I was browsing Mcmaster's web page, and noticed that they offer the 3/4" acme thread rod in a 5-pitch. Has anyone used this instead of the 6-pitch??


The more common is the 3/4" x 6.
It is hard enough to find nuts as it is. I don't think I have seen 3/4" x 5 at my local hardware stores.


----------



## dw'struth

lc12 said:


> The more common is the 3/4" x 6.
> It is hard enough to find nuts as it is. I don't think I have seen 3/4" x 5 at my local hardware stores.


I would just order my nuts along with my rod from McMaster. One would think that the wider pitch could only help the operation of the press.....I might look into trying one out.


----------



## Gunner7800

dw'struth said:


> I would just order my nuts along with my rod from McMaster. One would think that the wider pitch could only help the operation of the press.....I might look into trying one out.


Might as well give it a shot to see how you like it. It's all the same price, except the nuts are only $0.40 more. I went with the 6 pitch just because it was more common like lc12 said.


----------



## Bowman87

Almost finished with mine just need some coat hooks


----------



## OCOutdoors

I got some material last week and started building my press over the weekend. Took some ideas from this thread an others on this forum. Waiting on my acme rod and bearings to come in the mail and trying to decide on what to do about fingers. Here is what I have so far. I want to thank all that have given info on how to build one of these.


----------



## Gunner7800

Like the bench mount OC.


----------



## OCOutdoors

Still waiting on a few things to show up from Enco but decided to make an arrow saw using my dremel tool that is built into the press. 


















I took the bearings out of a wheel from one of my kids broken Razor Scooter then cut a nail small enough to shove in the center to use as a nock holder. I then used a shock tab and drill it out just large enough that I could use my vise to press bearing into it.


----------



## lc12

Gunner7800 said:


> Like the bench mount OC.


Looks nice!
You might want to think about drilling some holes in your legs so that you can put a couple of "capture rods" covered in rubber hose into them.
This will prevent the bow from falling to the floor should the limbs slip from the tips.

And those of you that are looking for fingers you might want to check out 92safari's fingers.
I built one linear press and used his fingers. Very adjustable and is not an infringement upon the "dark side"!
As a side note, when I built my press I used two 4" pieces of tube and slid them over the tubes that are for the fingers. I drilled a hole in the side of the tube and welded a nut on it so that I could use a 5/16" knob / bolt to lock it to the press tubes. It was these pieces that I attached my fingers too.
This works great and allows me to use different setups on my press by just switching out the slider tubes.


----------



## OCOutdoors

lc12 said:


> Looks nice!
> You might want to think about drilling some holes in your legs so that you can put a couple of "capture rods" covered in rubber hose into them.
> This will prevent the bow from falling to the floor should the limbs slip from the tips.
> 
> And those of you that are looking for fingers you might want to check out 92safari's fingers.
> I built one linear press and used his fingers. Very adjustable and is not an infringement upon the "dark side"!
> As a side note, when I built my press I used two 4" pieces of tube and slid them over the tubes that are for the fingers. I drilled a hole in the side of the tube and welded a nut on it so that I could use a 5/16" knob / bolt to lock it to the press tubes. It was these pieces that I attached my fingers too.
> This works great and allows me to use different setups on my press by just switching out the slider tubes.


I actually just ordered hangers from 92safari and also have material to slide tubes over the tubes for the fingers. I plan on using the press as a drawing board too so need to be able to pull hangers off and slide crank on. I didn't realize till now what the capture rods did. I thought they were suppose to go through the riser somewhere but I see what you mean if the bow were to fall. They will have to be removable so they are not in the way when used as a draw board.


----------



## lc12

OCOutdoors said:


> I actually just ordered hangers from 92safari and also have material to slide tubes over the tubes for the fingers. I plan on using the press as a drawing board too so need to be able to pull hangers off and slide crank on. I didn't realize till now what the capture rods did. I thought they were suppose to go through the riser somewhere but I see what you mean if the bow were to fall. They will have to be removable so they are not in the way when used as a draw board.


I used Perf-Steel on one press and the holes were, of course, already there.
I then used "All Thread rod, cut about eight inches long and covered six inches with rubber hose.
I just slip the rods into the proper hole, depending on the bow being pressed. The threaded rod stays in place.
Just gives you a little piece of mind from dropping a bow to the floor!


----------



## aljburk

Tagged.....


----------



## woodbrosinc

What Bearing did you for this?


----------



## woodbrosinc

I have look at Gunners plans for his press and he mentioned a bearing in the main square tubing, any particular bearing need to be used?


----------



## lc12

I used a cast bearing that I mounted to the front tube. I welded a plate to the front tube and then bought a two hole cast iron bearing from McMaster Carr and mounted it to the plate. Of course there was a hole drilled in the plate to accept the ACME rod.
On the ACME rod I had four inches of the threads removed and turned down to 1/2 inch. This is what I mounted my handwheel to.
I left a portion of the rod sticking out of the front in case I ever decided to add a motor to my press.
A lot of guys just use a THRUST WASHER, usually in brass, to act as their bearings. This works good enough for a lot of folks. I am just picky and wanted something that would turn as smooth as butter....and mine does!

If you check Gunner's schematic, PAGE 2, you will see that there are some thrust washers shown stacked behind the nut.


----------



## woodbrosinc

LC, how many bearings did you have to use.

another note, have you found a good DIY bow vise, similar to apple archery?


----------



## OCOutdoors

woodbrosinc said:


> What Bearing did you for this?


I used this one.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=505-3242
There is a parts list on the first page, post#14
I used 2 shaft collars but not sure if its really needed, one inside the larger tube behind the welded plate the bearing bolts to and the other after the bearing. Just waiting on my fingers to show up. For now I'm going to use vise grip pliers until I can figure out the wheel, I don't have any way of threading wheel.


----------



## woodbrosinc

LC, how many bearings did you have to use.

another note, have you found a good DIY bow vise, similar to apple archery?


----------



## woodbrosinc

OC thanks, I am going to look into this


----------



## lc12

woodbrosinc said:


> LC, how many bearings did you have to use.
> 
> another note, have you found a good DIY bow vise, similar to apple archery?


I only used ONE flange bearing that was a two hole cast bearing from McMaster Carr.
There are a couple of good DIY vises on this forum, but most utilize the stabilizer hole and I am not real fond of that idea.
I bought an American Archery vise on ebay that was just like the Apple bow vise and I got it on special for less than thirty dollars, but that was a couple of years ago.
My bow vise is so important in my shop, and used so much, that I went and bought the OMP vise. YES! It is expensive, but worth every penny!!!


----------



## OCOutdoors

Here are a few more pictures of my mostly done bow press/draw board. I added the dremel arrow saw and used hangers from safari92. I may add an arrow spin tester later. Installed my first peep today and was able to check my draw stop timing, which was off some. 
















I haven't made any capture rods but still may later. I don't have a wheel but vise grip pliers are working fine.


----------



## aljburk

OCOutdoors said:


> Here are a few more pictures of my mostly done bow press/draw board. I added the dremel arrow saw and used hangers from safari92. I may add an arrow spin tester later. Installed my first peep today and was able to check my draw stop timing, which was off some.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't made any capture rods but still may later. I don't have a wheel but vise grip pliers are working fine.



How did you mount the winch to the press? Could ya post some pics? Thanks.


----------



## OCOutdoors

I welded a piece of flat plate on some 1-3/4" square tubing that slides over the 1-1/2" press arms and bolted winch to it. On the bow side I drilled a 5/8" hole through some flat stock and welded some 5/8" rod to it then welded it to some 1-3/4" square tubing to go over press arm. I put some 5/8O.D. tubing over the rod.


----------



## lc12

Looks good!
If you are looking for a handwheel I bought mine from Grizzly.


----------



## OCOutdoors

lc12 said:


> Looks good!
> If you are looking for a handwheel I bought mine from Grizzly.


I've seen them there but not sure how I would mount them to the rod. Doesn't it have to be tapped?


----------



## lc12

OCOutdoors said:


> I've seen them there but not sure how I would mount them to the rod. Doesn't it have to be tapped?


Yes, it has to be tapped, but it was very easy to do and it tapped nicely.
I slid the wheel onto the ACME rod shaft, which I had the threads removed from the rod and turned down to 1/2" diameter to fit most handwheels, and ran a bolt into the tapped hole and tightened it enough to leave a "mark" on the shaft.
I removed the wheel and took a file and ground a small "flat" onto the shaft.
This made for a non-slip attachment of the wheel to the shaft. But this is just me. Usually the bolt can be tightened enough to prevent slipping.
Also, you can get a handwheel with a 3/4 inch hole and just slide the whole ACME rod through it and tighten the bolt as above.
Good luck!


----------



## Canamxmr2011

Tag


----------



## dw'struth

OCOutdoors said:


> I've seen them there but not sure how I would mount them to the rod. Doesn't it have to be tapped?


The hole that the thread rod slides through does not have to be tapped. As mentioned, just drill a hole through the collar and tap it so you have a set screw.


----------



## Armed_AL

I finally got a set of coat hooks so I'll be ordering the parts tonight, can't wait to have a decent press! This may have been posted already but if not I listed the Enco part #'s for trust bearings/races and bronze flanged bushing below. I have a extra set of coat hooks I will sell or trade, They are really thick cut from 1" plate but can be used as is or milled down.

Enco part #
325-7579- Flanged bronze bushing x1 $1.28
891-4797- Thrust bearings x2 $2.76 each
891-4804- Trust bearing flat race "washer" x4 $0.96 each


----------



## Gunner7800

Armed_AL said:


> I finally got a set of coat hooks so I'll be ordering the parts tonight, can't wait to have a decent press! This may have been posted already but if not I listed the Enco part #'s for trust bearings/races and bronze flanged bushing below. I have a extra set of coat hooks I will sell or trade, They are really thick cut from 1" plate but can be used as is or milled down.
> 
> Enco part #
> 325-7579- Flanged bronze bushing x1 $1.28
> 891-4797- Thrust bearings x2 $2.76 each
> 891-4804- Trust bearing flat race "washer" x4 $0.96 each


Thanks Al, it hard to say what has been posted in 21 pages of stuff. Be sure to post some pics of your finished press.


----------



## Armed_AL

Gunner7800 said:


> Thanks Al, it hard to say what has been posted in 21 pages of stuff. Be sure to post some pics of your finished press.


Thanks for starting this great thread, It's going to save me a ton of cash! I forgot to add that the bronze bushing is 3/4" long and will need to be cut down in length to work properly.


----------



## Armed_AL

I ordered everything except the tubing and hand wheel from Enco. It came to $47.47 shipped but if I could've found a free shipping code that worked it would only been $37, I also added a extra acme nut to my order. Here are my lovely coat hooks, I'm doing the finishing work on them today


----------



## Ryan1454

Ttt


----------



## Armed_AL

I ordered the nestable tube from McMaster Carr yesterday late afternoon and it's is on the UPS truck for delivery today! Now that is what I call fast shipping. I decided to go with 1.75" and 2" for a beefy look and to avoid any clearance problems with collars. Once the tube gets here I have everything need to start so I'll be sure to take some pics along the way


----------



## Gunner7800

Can't wait to see it.


----------



## Armed_AL

Just need to drill and tap the adjustment screws after dinner


----------



## Armed_AL

Pretty much done, just need to cut down the acme rod, weld some feet on the legs, dip the coat hooks and paint. Yes that is a steering wheel:star:


----------



## Gunner7800

Armed_AL said:


> Yes that is a steering wheel


Hey, whatever works for you:wink:. That larger diameter wheel will make it a piece of cake to turn.


----------



## lc12

Nice welds!!!


----------



## Armed_AL

Gunner7800 said:


> Hey, whatever works for you:wink:. That larger diameter wheel will make it a piece of cake to turn.


Yeah it makes it very easy to operate and it was free! The center hole was also a perfect fit on the acme rod so I didn't have to modify it at all.


----------



## Armed_AL

lc12 said:


> Nice welds!!!


 Thanks!


----------



## Armed_AL

Not the worlds best pic but here it is done with my alpha elite pressed.


----------



## Gunner7800

Looks like you've done a fine job Al. How's it working for ya?


----------



## lc12

Looks like you shortened your ACME rod a bit at the "steering wheel".
Good decision as it will put you closer to your work and take some stress off of the rod assembly.
Looks really nice!


----------



## Armed_AL

lc12 said:


> Looks like you shortened your ACME rod a bit at the "steering wheel".
> Good decision as it will put you closer to your work and take some stress off of the rod assembly.
> Looks really nice!


I assembled it to make sure everything worked then trimmed the rod after I made sure it was all good to go.


----------



## ruttnwapati

Love the sterring wheel.


----------



## Gunner7800

I know what you need now.....a necker knob.


----------



## Armed_AL

Gunner7800 said:


> I know what you need now.....a necker knob.
> 
> View attachment 1659702


I was thinking the same thing. I think I seen them at auto zone pretty cheap


----------



## Unk Bond

Armed_AL said:


> I was thinking the same thing. I think I seen them at auto zone pretty cheap


===============

Hello All

X 2 
By all means a spinner nob. :wink: [ Later


----------



## lc12

Gunner7800 said:


> I know what you need now.....a necker knob.
> 
> View attachment 1659702


Funny that you posted this pic.
Just this weekend I put one on another press I have. The knob spinner was a spare for my tractor and I decided to put it on my press wheel.
Works great!!!


----------



## cncjerry

Sorry guys, I have the patent on using spinner knobs on linear tip presses. You'll be receiving a nasty letter from my attorney. Even though the letter costs ten times the lost revenue and thirty times the lost profit, I must defend my claims to the end!

Chuckle.

nice welds. Let's see you flow them that smoothly on aluminum. I know I can't.

jerry


----------



## fishuntbike

Very nice....I remember those days when I was building my press, but no need to build another one. Keep it coming guys.


----------



## Armed_AL

cncjerry said:


> Sorry guys, I have the patent on using spinner knobs on linear tip presses. You'll be receiving a nasty letter from my attorney. Even though the letter costs ten times the lost revenue and thirty times the lost profit, I must defend my claims to the end!
> 
> Chuckle.
> 
> nice welds. Let's see you flow them that smoothly on aluminum. I know I can't.
> jerry


I can tig weld weld aluminum good. I haven't tried it with mig though..I'm calling my cousin Vinnie to field any patent issues lol..


----------



## lc12

cncjerry said:


> Sorry guys, I have the patent on using spinner knobs on linear tip presses. You'll be receiving a nasty letter from my attorney. Even though the letter costs ten times the lost revenue and thirty times the lost profit, I must defend my claims to the end!
> 
> Chuckle.
> 
> nice welds. Let's see you flow them that smoothly on aluminum. I know I can't.
> 
> jerry


Had me worried there for a minute! I thought maybe you had the patent on the steering wheel!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Armed_AL

lc12 said:


> Had me worried there for a minute! I thought maybe you had the patent on the steering wheel!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


As the inventor of the bow press steering wheel I give full permission to freely use and modify my idea to your liking...Including but not limited to steering wheels, handle bars or any device formally used for directional control. No warranty expressed or implied, use at your own risk. Not liable for damages caused by playing race car driver, sons of anarchy or Dukes of Hazard.

signed,
Armed_AL


----------



## Gunner7800

Armed_AL said:


> As the inventor of the bow press steering wheel I give full permission to freely use and modify my idea to your liking...Including but not limited to steering wheels, handle bars or any device formally used for directional control. No warranty expressed or implied, use at your own risk. Not liable for damages caused by playing race car driver, sons of anarchy or Dukes of Hazard.
> 
> signed,
> Armed_AL


Warning: Using directional control devices on a press may cause side effects including but not limited to: vomiting, nausea, headaches, explosive diarreaha, cockeyedness, blurry vision, menstrual cramps in men, erections in women, window licking, pacing, liver prolapse, heaving drinking, light drinking, dehydration, hypothermia, heat stroke, mid-life crisis, archery repairs, menopause, death, dismemberment, or in extreme cases nothing at all. Enjoy at your own risk.


----------



## Armed_AL

Gunner7800 said:


> Warning: Using directional control devices on a press may cause side effects including but not limited to: vomiting, nausea, headaches, explosive diarreaha, cockeyedness, blurry vision, menstrual cramps in men, erections in women, window licking, pacing, liver prolapse, heaving drinking, light drinking, dehydration, hypothermia, heat stroke, mid-life crisis, archery repairs, menopause, death, dismemberment, or in extreme cases nothing at all. Enjoy at your own risk.


Only operate while wearing appropriate driving gloves and collision restraint system. Operating while intoxicated can lead to inflated sense of ability and knowledge and may also cause dancing and unprotected sex. Not responsible for any ******* children that may or may not have been conceived as a result of operating this device while intoxicated.


----------



## stanlh

for reference


----------



## lc12

Armed_AL said:


> As the inventor of the bow press steering wheel I give full permission to freely use and modify my idea to your liking...Including but not limited to steering wheels, handle bars or any device formally used for directional control. No warranty expressed or implied, use at your own risk. Not liable for damages caused by playing race car driver, sons of anarchy or Dukes of Hazard.
> 
> signed,
> Armed_AL


Now I can sleep at night knowing that I won't receive the dreaded letter threatening to sue me for the use of your wheel design!!! :mg:


----------



## Jgfan

I was searching the web looking to build one of these. I came across this site, super job on the builds. Is there anyone making the "coat hooks" that can pm me with a price? I would love to build one of these. Thanks


----------



## marc1980augrad

bump


----------



## Mallard drake

Bump


----------



## cullin05

Jgfan said:


> I was searching the web looking to build one of these. I came across this site, super job on the builds. Is there anyone making the "coat hooks" that can pm me with a price? I would love to build one of these. Thanks


I need some coathooks for parallel limb mathews. P.M. Me please


----------



## team6tactical

I am looking for some coathooks too. Anybody have any of these available let me know.


----------



## cmd242

Someone sell me some arms!!!!! PM ME


----------



## Tooly

Thanks !


----------



## cmd242

I need someone to sell me some fingers!!! Come on


----------



## tadpole

Where is everyone getting these coat hooks? Thats all I need to get started.


----------



## cmd242

Can someone sell me drilled and tapped fingers


----------



## 92safari

You can check out my threads and listings to see if mine would suit you. A bit more elaborate than most but much more versatile.


----------



## SierraMtns

Great thread. Tagged for later.


----------



## BROWN STAR

to mark


----------



## thwacker

back up, belongs on the front page..................thanks Gunner7800


----------



## joshbovaird

After many failed trips to local bow shops im gonna start doing my own work. It cant be any worse than some past experiences. These plans are very handy thanks for taking the time to put it together i will be building a press very shortly.


----------



## Joe2698

Where id you find the 1.75" Nestable Square Tubing--6ft or is it listed as a different name?


----------



## ymurf

Joe2698 said:


> Where id you find the 1.75" Nestable Square Tubing--6ft or is it listed as a different name?


McMaster Carr


----------



## Ches

Bump for a great read


----------



## 2X_LUNG

I have a few extra sets of fingers I bought and never built the presses. PM if you need/want a set.


----------



## 2X_LUNG

Ttt


----------



## 2X_LUNG

Ttt


----------



## bwhntr7973

great post with lots of useful info.


----------



## dw'struth

Yep...best press thread ever!


----------



## Greedy

I skipped through some of the pages on the thread so I may have missed where someone has already done this, but I decided to go with thrust bearings and made small changes to the original plans. Used a brass brushing and had the shaft turned down and sleeved. I don't know how to post pics but will give it a shot.


----------



## Greedy

Ok. Pics worked but dang, they're huge.


----------



## drhorsepower

I've been working on a pair of presses. 95% done and needs paint.


----------



## drhorsepower

Thanks for everyone's help, I finished my presses. Tell me what you think!


----------



## johnnymg

subscribed


----------



## buckI bowhunter

I have some "coat hooks" if anyone needs some


----------



## buckI bowhunter

Scratch that


----------



## Gurwery

DIY Press


----------



## Greedy

Just finished. For now, anyway. Sorry in advance for the huge pics. Dont know how to make them smaller.


----------



## jdmaxwell

Looks good... I am in process of starting to build mine tonight...

My question i think maybe solved from pics above..,, So its just the plate with 7/8 hole, then the 2 bearings, then the shaft collar, and the wheel attached to the rod?? 
No nut needed in there??



Gunner, thank you for the press plans..


----------



## mwntnmuleys

Tag


----------



## Greedy

The plate is 1/2 flat stock with a 3/4 hole. The brass bearing is 3/4 OD and 5/8 ID. There is a lock coller, 1 thrust bearing, and two washers on each side of the plate.


----------



## Greedy

Collar, sorry, on a cell phone. The only nut in there is the one welded in the 1.75 in tubing for the acme rod. I went with 2" to 1.75 in to 1.5 in for quick adjust. Worked out incredibly smooth but no need to do more spinning than you have to.


----------



## OregonKDS

Tagged


----------



## jdmaxwell

Thanks Greedy for info.
I have mine together except for mounting fingers.. I will try to post pic

Did u cut ur rod down or do u leave it full length?


----------



## Greedy

Acme rod? I cut it down. Once I mocked up the tubing, I brought them in as tight as they would go and marked the rod at the point where it stuck out and cut it there.


----------



## jdmaxwell

here is my progress on my press so far.. have to mount the fingers and do a bit more welding..
Not worlds best welder but it works..


----------



## Greedy

Looks good. I dont know about you but I really found it therapeutic working on mine even though it was cookin my grits at times.


----------



## jdmaxwell

Yeah.. I will be glad to be done with it and feel like i accomplished it..


----------



## Roughin It

I just finished up with plans for a press using the bottle jack(like the press from Apple). But like this design better(this looks more like the EZ Press). I can get the metal easy but where are you all getting the wheel and rod. Is there plans already for this press or did you all just come up with it?


----------



## Greedy

Plans at the start of the thread. Modify as you see fit. I got the wheel and most everything else at Mcmaster-Carr.com. You can get the wheels from Grizzly also. Larger and at a better I believe.


----------



## Greedy

I meant better price.


----------



## Roughin It

Thanks Greedy. I was on my phone and couldn't see it. Got on my computer and can see them now. Thank you.


----------



## airsiler

Is someone making the fingers for this press that i can buy? 

Thanks

Gtreat job by the way guys


----------



## Greedy

Fingers arent tough to make with the help of a band saw or even a portaband. Use a piece of construction paper to make a template. Hold the paper behind your limb and trace out the tip and go from there. If you dont have the equipment, look at the " lets build a slimline together" thread. PM 92Safari. He has a fantastic design and may have something he can part with.


----------



## Shortaxle

Tag for later! Thanks!


----------



## Greedy

Swivel pic for Rob


----------



## RobColella

Thank you, Greedy


----------



## dixierebel

If anyone can has some coat hangers that will work on the bowtechs with the pillow blocks for sale, please pm me.


----------



## wadoss1989

So I have tried to contact 92safari and anyone else who said they had fingers left over and have gotten no where....can someone put up the link for 92safari's fingers design. Also Mcmaster-Carr no longer carries 1 1/2" tubing...gotta go bigger I guess.


----------



## JWilson90

tagged


----------



## jstoll

goin to build this press but cant find the nestable 1.5' square tubing does anyone know who carries it not listed at McMaster-Carr? also saw hand wheel with hole drilled all the way through is cheaper than one listed this should work fine right? thanks


----------



## dandeployed

jstoll said:


> goin to build this press but cant find the nestable 1.5' square tubing does anyone know who carries it not listed at McMaster-Carr? also saw hand wheel with hole drilled all the way through is cheaper than one listed this should work fine right? thanks


I just bought it from McMaster a couple weeks ago. Just do a search for on their site for nestable tubing.


----------



## jstoll

They have the 1.5" with the holes n it but not the solid tube will check again might have missed it thanks


----------



## dandeployed

No you're right, they don't have 1.5" solid tubing.


----------



## jstoll

if anybody is looking for the 1.5" nestable square tubing also called (teIescoping square tubing) found some at industrial metals sales here is a link http://www.industrialmetalsales.com/Telescoping-Steel-Square-Tube_c342.htm


----------



## RobColella

Finally got all the parts sourced and ready to go. Took a small box of cut metal parts, 5/8" acme rod, and hand wheel to the machine shop today to be milled and welded. I'll post pictures before finishing. 

A special thank you goes out to Safari 92 and Gunner 7800 for all their guidance, generosity, and answering all my "annoying" numerous questions. 

As a way of giving back to all and sharing what I have learned along the way. I will post the PDF drawings I gave to the machine shop that are nothing more than a compilation and adaptation of plans here on AT. They are no way mine, but rather versions of everyone's presses.


----------



## RobColella

PDF files are too large to post. If you'd like a copy, just PM me your email address and I'll email them to you.


----------



## dlehnert

Tag


----------



## slettet

hi there would you mail them to me the pdf files regards 

[email protected]


----------



## grubstake

Finished mine up tonight. I still may make some changes. I'm planning on making longer fingers. And I'll change to a hand wheel when I get one for a good price (free)


----------



## grubstake




----------



## fishcatcher

tag for later


----------



## TedDBear

Tag in it up! Thanks guys!


----------



## BW321

Tagged


----------



## RobColella

All the preliminary welding is complete. Just need to attach the threaded acme rod to the hand wheel, apply the powdercoat and plastic dip the fingers. Getting closer,but not quite done. More to come.


----------



## 92safari

Nice


----------



## Gunner7800

Very nice. A clean looking build.

I haven't been around here in a while, are those some of your finger mounts 92?


----------



## BUCK REAPER

Tagged


----------



## RobColella

Gunner7800 said:


> Very nice. A clean looking build.
> 
> I haven't been around here in a while, are those some of your finger mounts 92?


Yes they are.


----------



## RobColella

*Powder Coat Finish/Partial Assembly*

Pics to go with plans for those who requested them.








Overall view 








Left Finger Assembly (Removable) 








Right Finger Assembly(Removable)/ 5/8" Flange Bearing 4-hole (this has not been tightened down and bolts are long for demonstration and trial only) 








Leg Stub, 2" Long, 1 1/2" Square Tubing w/nut of choice








Leg Base, 1/4" Thick with through holes

I will be dipping the fingers and completing the final assembly this week. I will post completed pictures later. The bolts/nuts in the flange bearing will be replaced with shorter bolts and nylon lock nuts. The bolts in the removable assemblies and leg stubs will be replace with knob/stud assemblies for hand tightening and easy on/off assembly/breakdown.

As for the finger assembly brackets, these are from Safari 92. You could also use the same removable sleeves and use variations posted by others or by Gunner in this thread.

I owe my success with this project to both Safari 92 and Gunner for answering all my questions, their patience, and generosity.


----------



## Bazhenov

Friends, this finger can disassemble and assemble RPM 360 ?


----------



## autoguns

Nice work


----------



## mgwelder

The finger pattern, is that 3/8" or 1/2" stock material


----------



## jeffls417

Is there a market for replacement fingers? I'm working on pricing but I'm able to make these.


----------



## gansettx

Yeah I'd say there is a market...PM me a price.


----------



## robbyreneeward

In for later


----------



## JustinM

So this will work on pretty much any bow correct? Parallel and beyond parallel?


----------



## jimbooboo

With Jeffls417 bow press fingers these pics may help someone, I have built two of these and they work awesome.


----------



## RobColella

Finally got the hangars dipped and mounted.








The acme rod locks to the bearing via three set screws. No need for jam nuts and washers.








Fully closed is 25 1/2" between the hangars in neutral position.








22-24" of travel will get you between 47 1/2-49 1/2" between the fingers. This will leave you with 10" and 8" respectively of inner tube inside the main body. The main body pictured is 32" and the inner tube is 34".


----------



## Rageous

Where do I get fingers to build this press and how much?
anyone ? thanks to all who have posted, this is great stuff.


----------



## RobColella

Rageous said:


> Where do I get fingers to build this press and how much?
> anyone ? thanks to all who have posted, this is great stuff.


PM 92 safari on the other press forum


----------



## 92safari

Rageous said:


> Where do I get fingers to build this press and how much?
> anyone ? thanks to all who have posted, this is great stuff.


Sent you a pm...


----------



## Bazhenov

Friends, here is a bearing assembly is right for?
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK32?PARTPG=INSRAR2


----------



## Bazhenov

Sorry, that's what I wanted to ask. This bearing is suitable for the press? Enco Model No. 891-4797 http://www.use-enco.com


----------



## Bazhenov

RobColella said:


> Finally got the hangars dipped and mounted.
> View attachment 2300481
> 
> 
> The acme rod locks to the bearing via three set screws. No need for jam nuts and washers.
> View attachment 2300489
> 
> 
> Fully closed is 25 1/2" between the hangars in neutral position.
> View attachment 2300497
> 
> 
> 22-24" of travel will get you between 47 1/2-49 1/2" between the fingers. This will leave you with 10" and 8" respectively of inner tube inside the main body. The main body pictured is 32" and the inner tube is 34".


RobColella, I want to ask you how you were installing the support bearing on ACME Threaded Rod? Filmed thread? Or put on a thread? I can not understand.


----------



## Bazhenov

RobColella said:


> Finally got the hangars dipped and mounted.
> View attachment 2300481
> 
> 
> The acme rod locks to the bearing via three set screws. No need for jam nuts and washers.
> View attachment 2300489
> 
> 
> Fully closed is 25 1/2" between the hangars in neutral position.
> View attachment 2300497
> 
> 
> 22-24" of travel will get you between 47 1/2-49 1/2" between the fingers. This will leave you with 10" and 8" respectively of inner tube inside the main body. The main body pictured is 32" and the inner tube is 34".


RobColella, I want to ask you how you were installing the support bearing on ACME Threaded Rod? Filmed thread? Or put on a thread? I can not understand.


----------



## MN Archery Guy

Ok so for the last few days I've gone over all 29 pages.....yes. ..for real haha!! My question is with the fingers...will the fingers that are on this post work with draw stops? Specifically an Infinite Edge? Is that why there is a screw in the backside of the fingers to adjust where the fingers hit? Just want to make sure before I make them. Just finalizing my plans ( I have a couple modifications to plans) then will be ordering material. Great thread and good ideas...hopefully my ideas work the first time!!


----------



## Outsider

I'm not 100% sure but it looks like you can flip those fingers. Probably if you have a draw stop then you will have to flip one of them.


----------



## karllangeveld

Wow


----------



## FoggDogg

Great job!


----------



## OHIOARCHER36

Does anyone know the length of the acme rod ?


----------



## bowbender300

I don't know if it the right measurement but I made mine 26" and it works fine.


----------



## Wrestler21x

I read the whole tread great info. Does anyone have a fingers template. I thought I saw one the first read through but now can't find it.


----------



## bowbender300

Here's a diy video on making your own fingers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6N65P66LsjM&feature=youtu.be or the plans are here http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1718941 on the first post.


----------



## OHIOARCHER36

bowbender300 said:


> I don't know if it the right measurement but I made mine 26" and it works fine.


can you relax a bow all the way out at this measurement ?


----------



## bowbender300

OHIOARCHER36 said:


> can you relax a bow all the way out at this measurement ?


My bows are 43" axle to axle it will press all my bows and go down small enough to press a crossbow.


----------



## OHIOARCHER36

bowbender300 said:


> My bows are 43" axle to axle it will press all my bows and go down small enough to press a crossbow.


nice ,,,,,, did you follow these plans ?


----------



## bowbender300

OHIOARCHER36 said:


> nice ,,,,,, did you follow these plans ?


Yes very close to these plans except I bought the "hangers" off of 92safari. They were a lot more money but I thought the extra money was worth it to me. I'm sure I could have done all the pressing with the other "hangers" but I really liked his. I also made the main outside beam 2" longer because my bows are a lot longer then todays standard length bows.


----------



## OHIOARCHER36

bowbender300 said:


> Yes very close to these plans except I bought the "hangers" off of 92safari. They were a lot more money but I thought the extra money was worth it to me. I'm sure I could have done all the pressing with the other "hangers" but I really liked his. I also made the main outside beam 2" longer because my bows are a lot longer then todays standard length bows.


I got Hangers from 92 also , Does a excellet job . What acme rod did you use if I may ask ? Oh and bearing set-up ?


----------



## bowbender300

OHIOARCHER36 said:


> I got Hangers from 92 also , Does a excellet job . What acme rod did you use if I may ask ? Oh and bearing set-up ?


I used 3/4" acme threaded rod. Over kill?........... maybe but I build this press for myself. The bearing set up was a flange bearing similar to the one on http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1489937&page=58 at the top by RobColella.


----------



## OHIOARCHER36

Thanks for the help , thats what I'm going for , Overkill , and for personal use . lol


----------



## bowbender300

OHIOARCHER36 said:


> Thanks for the help , thats what I'm going for , Overkill , and for personal use . lol


Good luck, I think it's the best press around. Period.


----------



## Wrestler21x

Has anyone tried making this press out of aluminum instead of steel?


----------



## Outsider

Wrestler21x said:


> Has anyone tried making this press out of aluminum instead of steel?


I was thinking about it but then I realized how I'm going to weld a steel acme nut to the aluminum tube. As to the strength aluminum will be fine.


----------



## OHIOARCHER36

Do you really need the caution bar or is it personal preference ? I know safety first , but was just asking


----------



## Outsider

OHIOARCHER36 said:


> Do you really need the caution bar or is it personal preference ? I know safety first , but was just asking


No you don't. EZ press do not have it.


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## 92safari

If I may interject; a caution bar isn't a necessity for most traditional, shallow angled limbs, and you can even get through pressing some moderately preloaded limbs. Safety is obviously the biggest benefit to using some sort of caution bar to secure the bow in an in line press, and if using generic straight finger design; it's probably about the only benefit (as if not enough..lol) other than cradling the bow to tinker with serving, peeps, etc. If using the radius sedan style fingers however; it's a great advantage in addition to the obvious to be able to raise or lower a preloaded bow in the press as to control the exact point of contact between finger and limb so you can actually put the pressure where it belongs at or slightly below the axels.. "limb tip" pressing is a term used far too loosely in bow pressing.. if you think about it; the "limb tip" is above the axel hole drilled through that nice thick limb leaving maybe an 1/8" of limb material on each side making that point the weakest spot on the entire bow. A straight, vertical finger doesn't come close to matching the angle of any limb on any bow; so all the pressure "is" on the limb tips.. 
Plus it's good to have anything extra to help support and stabilize the riser since manufacturers are so keyed in on reducing weight that they keep whittling the risers down to nothing. Personally I like overkill as opposed to minimum.. if your goal in building your own is "minimum" then you may as well build one like an easy. You can do that for around $50 using all thread and call her done.. I'm guessing guys want to build one that's better and versatile enough to last them forever and be able to add to it as the please as years go bye and bow designs change. So you don't have to have one initially, but wouldn't be a bad idea to build in a way that leaves you the option of easily adding one later if your needs change down the road.. just my 2 cents on the matter..
Carry on.. lol
Good thread..
Have fun and take a kid with you


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## OHIOARCHER36

Thanks Outsider. 92safari I agree and that's what I'm after . Like Rob did in this thread I'm gonna leave legs removable just for that reasoning . I've taken prints and measurements from every post on here and using a few of everyones ideas I liked . I have the coat hanger so I'm thinking I'll be safe .....


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## Outsider

OHIOARCHER36 said:


> Thanks Outsider. 92safari I agree and that's what I'm after . Like Rob did in this thread I'm gonna leave legs removable just for that reasoning . I've taken prints and measurements from every post on here and using a few of everyones ideas I liked . I have the coat hanger so I'm thinking I'll be safe .....


Like 92safari said. It's not necessary but if you have parts and time , then make it.


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## OHIOARCHER36

almost complete I'll get pics up when done . Thanks for all the help . Press is turning out awesome


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## OHIOARCHER36




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## 92safari

Looking sweet.. just in time for preseason maintainance..


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## OHIOARCHER36

92safari said:


> Looking sweet.. just in time for preseason maintainance..


Thank you


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## dr.shwack_em

Where do you guys get the acme rod?


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## bowbender300

dr.shwack_em said:


> Where do you guys get the acme rod?


Where are you from?


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## Outsider

dr.shwack_em said:


> Where do you guys get the acme rod?


McMaster Carr


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## Fixerman812

jeffls417 said:


> Is there a market for replacement fingers? I'm working on pricing but I'm able to make these.
> View attachment 2225396


There sure is a market for these. PM a price if you can ship to Toronto, Canada. We are archers and bowhunters up here too!


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## DrenalinHntr1

Tagging for reference


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## Hoytboy2

All done! Came out kinda nice I'd say. Thanks to all the guys who posted where to get items purchased. Its amazing how many friends you have when they find out you now have a press in the man cave!


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## dfivdayz

Where are yall getting the spring steel shims made at?.....like on post #342


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## Gunner7800

Wow, 31 pages and still going. You guys do some amazing work on these presses.


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## jknudsen

What are your thoughts on pressing the new Hoyts with these presses/fingers?


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## Outsider

dfivdayz said:


> Where are yall getting the spring steel shims made at?.....like on post #342


I don't know anyone who have them but I did the same as the guy above. I use rubber bands to keep the fingers in upward position


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## bowbender300

I used 1 1/2" .100 wall inside 1 3/4" .100 wall tubing fits snug with no need for shims.


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## dfivdayz

I meant the shims for the fingers...my fault for not specifing....thinking of the same about the rubber bands just was thinking of a more permenant solve....thanks


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## midview132

nice


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## Ronon

tagged


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## jstoll

Here is my press i built awhile ago just recently figured out how to post pics!









ht

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## jstoll

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk


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## jstoll

Also made a bench mount










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## Outsider

Really nice. I like how you made the draw board using your press. I don't know why but a lot of people don't like it that way. Probably because of all the adjustment between draw board and press. But for individual use I don't see this to be a problem. 
Good job.


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## jstoll

It can be a hassle when i have 2 keep switching back n forth from fingers 2 draw board....i wish i would of made winch style like yours i might still do that...i like how small your winch is...i would just need the winch not other piece if u want pm me a price....thanks

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk


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## Hoosierbow20

made these with similar plans and made the fingers myself from a youtube post.


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## Mineisbigger27

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0474550

I think that this flange bearing will work and if so is considerably cheaper.


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## mikear

Those of you with flange bearings, are you using the bearing set screws directly on the ACME rod threads? If not, are you drilling a dimple, grinding a flat spot, or turning the shaft down and using a smaller I.D. flange bearing? I've already ordered a 3/4" I.D. flange bearing but wondering if I should've gone smaller?

Thanks,
Mike


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## RatherBArchery

Back to keeping the fingers upright.
I buy the cheapest rod/shaft collars I can find and weld them on the side of my steel fingers. I use the collars with a single set screw that tightens against the internal shaft, make sense?? Once installed I just run the set screw against the 1/2" rod which supports the fingers and they stay put. If you need to move them or rotate just loosen the set screw to do it.


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## GrayTech

jstoll said:


> Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk


Looks great. The weight of that chain will very likely influence your timing. It's way overkill, get some strap from a ratchet strap or some rope.


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## mikear

mikear said:


> Those of you with flange bearings, are you using the bearing set screws directly on the ACME rod threads? If not, are you drilling a dimple, grinding a flat spot, or turning the shaft down and using a smaller I.D. flange bearing? I've already ordered a 3/4" I.D. flange bearing but wondering if I should've gone smaller?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike


Attempting to answer my own question. I think I'll use the 3/4" bearing and use a collar on both sides of the bearing similar to Gunner's original design. Then dimple the shaft for the set screws. I intend to use it as a draw board eventually as well. I'm thinking the collars will provide enough support while using the draw board and also while pressing bows. Thoughts?


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## RobColella

Mikear,

If you're using a flange bearing assembly, you don't need to do anything special if the assembly has set screws. The set screws can just be tightened against the acme rod and they will lock it to the bearing just fine. Your acme nut is carrying the load and not your bearing. The bearing is just there to allow smooth rotation. If have pictures of my build on the inline press thread started by Safari 92 and did not need shaft collars and I can tell you my press glides. Many have used the plans I offered them and built the same setup and have had no complaints. The key is making sure the acme nut is welded squarely to prevent any binding.

Rob


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## mikear

RobColella said:


> Mikear,
> 
> If you're using a flange bearing assembly, you don't need to do anything special if the assembly has set screws. The set screws can just be tightened against the acme rod and they will lock it to the bearing just fine. Your acme nut is carrying the load and not your bearing. The bearing is just there to allow smooth rotation. If have pictures of my build on the inline press thread started by Safari 92 and did not need shaft collars and I can tell you my press glides. Many have used the plans I offered them and built the same setup and have had no complaints. The key is making sure the acme nut is welded squarely to prevent any binding.
> 
> Rob


Rob,

Thanks for the response. I ordered my flange bearing then saw your press photos. Very nice indeed. I am going to be making a 92safari modular style press but utilize a flange bearing like yours. 

I partially agree with you, however, the flange bearing does hold the forces of pressing or drawing as well. Without the bearing there the acme rod would just pull out when pressing a bow. Since you have had good luck I feel better about the design. I may go ahead and add some collars for added security. 

Thanks again!


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## RobColella

I agree with you on the pressing and drawing forces. I thought about it after I posted and realized I was wrong. As you noted, I haven't had any issues. However, some collars are definitely not a bad idea for added security and peace of mind. Looking forward to seeing your finished product.


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## GrayTech

mikear said:


> Rob,
> 
> Thanks for the response. I ordered my flange bearing then saw your press photos. Very nice indeed. I am going to be making a 92safari modular style press but utilize a flange bearing like yours.
> 
> I partially agree with you, however, the flange bearing does hold the forces of pressing or drawing as well. Without the bearing there the acme rod would just pull out when pressing a bow. Since you have had good luck I feel better about the design. I may go ahead and add some collars for added security.
> 
> Thanks again!


I used thrust bearings on my press with threaded collars to hold them in place, thrust type bearings just seemed more suited to the purpose. It certainly makes it easy to press, and I only have a 4½" wheel on mine. 
Here are the threaded clamp nuts that fit the acme thread, they are far more secure than a collar. If you buy these make sure you get the right thread to fit the rod.


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## mikear

GrayTech said:


> I used thrust bearings on my press with threaded collars to hold them in place, thrust type bearings just seemed more suited to the purpose. It certainly makes it easy to press, and I only have a 4½" wheel on mine.
> Here are the threaded clamp nuts that fit the acme thread, they are far more secure than a collar. If you buy these make sure you get the right thread to fit the rod.
> View attachment 4129209


Where did you get those? All of the threaded ACME collars I've found run $20+ each!

Thanks.


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## Outsider

RatherBArchery said:


> Back to keeping the fingers upright.
> I buy the cheapest rod/shaft collars I can find and weld them on the side of my steel fingers. I use the collars with a single set screw that tightens against the internal shaft, make sense?? Once installed I just run the set screw against the 1/2" rod which supports the fingers and they stay put. If you need to move them or rotate just loosen the set screw to do it.


I'm thinking of using Torsion springs to keep my fingers in the up position all the time. Will let you guys know how they work.


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## GrayTech

mikear said:


> Where did you get those? All of the threaded ACME collars I've found run $20+ each!
> 
> Thanks.


EBay. Can't remember what I payed, but it wasn't $20, that's for sure.


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## Outsider

mikear said:


> Where did you get those? All of the threaded ACME collars I've found run $20+ each!
> 
> Thanks.


Get them from McMasterr. Look for "one piece collar" they are about $15 + shipping.


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## RonGH

Awesome thread, thanks. All my steel is cut and ready. Waiting on my parts from McCaster and the assembly begins.


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## seanspence

Following


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## PQUACKENBUSH86

What do you think about these flange bearings? https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/3-4-four-bolt-flange-bearing-ucf204-12/
Also what does everyone use for the spring plate under the fingers?


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## uf-engineer

That bearing should work.

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## mikear

PQUACKENBUSH86 said:


> What do you think about these flange bearings? https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/3-4-four-bolt-flange-bearing-ucf204-12/
> Also what does everyone use for the spring plate under the fingers?


That's the bearing I used, it is buttery smooth. I don't have any springs under the fingers because I used 92safari's finger assembly.


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## BK Ammen

Wow. Thanks for all your info and inspiration. Now the question is how much time can I expect to spend building and finishing? Cause a green EZ is $400. If I split cost with a friend on a EZ is it really worth it? Obviously you get the satisfaction of building it but time is worth something too.


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## BK Ammen

Thanks for the inspiration


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## ruttnwapati

BK Ammen said:


> Wow. Thanks for all your info and inspiration. Now the question is how much time can I expect to spend building and finishing? Cause a green EZ is $400. If I split cost with a friend on a EZ is it really worth it? Obviously you get the satisfaction of building it but time is worth something too.


True statement. I know the one I built includes features which I wanted ....acme thread drive(ez drive?) extended fingers, string keeper, accessory tray, colors of my choice, caution bar...things you won't get on the ez.
I would find or make time.....it's gratifying building things bigger and better than retail.



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## ILOVE3D

Tagged again


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## tater6061

Awesome Thanks


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## hankcapp

I know this thread is old, but i wanted to come back and update on the bow press i created based off this thread.
Thanks again to everyone on here, the press turned out great.


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## 92safari

Nice job...


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## Richardi503

Thankyou for the itemized parts list


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## seamusduffy

following . . .


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