# Aiming Consistency via String Blur



## Huntmaster (Jan 30, 2003)

First off, I've gotta ask, is your pin seriously covered by the riser at 18M? This shouldn't be the case at all if so. You need to first check limb alignment and center shot if this is the case. Not to mention the fact that the arrows are not shooting straight down the range. 

as for just the part about moving the string blur. You might be able to get away with the blur in the sight, but on bright days or bright light, the string will block the sight because your eyes dialate down so that you can't see "throught" the string. Indoors or darker shooting conditions, you won't have as much trouble.


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## deepsprayj (Nov 4, 2011)

That is pretty weird. I have my pin in the blur. Even if I did not, my pin clears my riser by quite a bit. I start with my pin slightly left of my string and let my grip sort of float my pin into the string and I release. It might not be right but it works for me in bright conditions. I am relatively new at this aspect of archery though so take that for what it is worth.


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## gumibears (Jun 1, 2008)

@Huntmaster
yes it covers it. During September, I found out my tiller was super negative because the bolts had unknowingly twisted by themselves. I had never messed with tiller before that. 18 I could see but at 70 I estimated where the sight pin was and shot a bit below 1100. Then ever since I fixed the tiller, I have the opposite problem of 70 I can see but 18 I cant.

Yeah I forgot to mention that limb alignment seems as perfect as when I first got the winact new. Center shot is correct relative to limbs and the point of the arrow is slightly to the left of the string.

I am not sure how to move the string blur. It seems to require me to change my form. It could also be that my form is still garbage and that I am just decent at keeping it consistent. I draw such that the string is in the middle of my nose and my draw hand is under the right side of my face. I notice that if i use a closed stance, the string blur gets closer to the sight pin and that I have to move my sight pin to the left allowing me to see at 18 AND 70. However, this feels weird because it changes my form.

LOL i also forgot to mention that at 70m I also cant exactly see the sight pin because its being blocked by the black knob that screws the beiter clicker in. I am such a problem child haha.


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## Mika Savola (Sep 2, 2008)

If you must move the sight pin to the left when shooting a longer distance, there is something wrong with your tune.


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## TheAncientOne (Feb 14, 2007)

If you have a sight extension bar you can move it in so that the sight is closer to your eye, that should eliminate the problem seeing the sight pin at 18 and 70 meters. If you align your string with the center of your limbs the sight should be to the left of the string blur. If your face is narrow or your anchor is not to your nose tip and chin this may vary. I only know one person who is able to get both his nose tip and the center of his chin, for most people the string will come to the right of your chin slightly. That should be a good starting point *IF* your center shot is set properly and your arrows are spined properly.

Pictures of your form will help us.

TAO


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## midwayarcherywi (Sep 24, 2006)

Huntmaster is correct. Your issue is with initial bow set up. Then check arrow spine. The sight pin, ideally, should be fairly close to the center line. If it strays too far outside, or inside, you have an issue with either arrow spine, or initial set up. In this case, I think you should start from scratch and put the kit together as if you just received it. An experienced eye could help you out a great deal.
725 MKII could be on the weak side.


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## Huntmaster (Jan 30, 2003)

gumibears said:


> @Huntmaster
> yes it covers it. During September, I found out my tiller was super negative because the bolts had unknowingly twisted by themselves. I had never messed with tiller before that. 18 I could see but at 70 I estimated where the sight pin was and shot a bit below 1100. Then ever since I fixed the tiller, I have the opposite problem of 70 I can see but 18 I cant.
> 
> Yeah I forgot to mention that limb alignment seems as perfect as when I first got the winact new. Center shot is correct relative to limbs and the point of the arrow is slightly to the left of the string.
> ...


Ok, there's something definately wierd going on. At about 42lb, give or take, most archers will have their sight pin fairly close to their arrow for 70M.......you have yours set about where most have a much closer mark. 

You need to sit down and do some retuning, and prety seriously. If you don't have a laser, or at least two sets of beiter blocks, try using your stabilizer as another reference for alignment. It's not perfect, but most of the time it is realitively close......closer than it sounds like you have now (as long as it screws in straight and doesn't cork screw while screwing it in). String should line up with the center of the beiter blocks, center of riser and down the stabilizer. Arrow point should lie just to the left of the string (I think you're right handed if I read right). Tiller should be even. Use your T square to make double sure it's set dead even. In fact, tighten your limbs all the way down, then back them out evenly to your desired poundage (count turns on the way in, average the two and back them both out exactly that much)....that will at least put you close. Perfect tiller should be within one turn or less of that position on one limb bolt. 

Let's get the bow set up so it shoots first, then worry about the string blur. I think that issue is just personal preference, but first you have to have a sight you can align a string with.


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## gumibears (Jun 1, 2008)

@Mika yes moving left to right from 18 to 70 there is something offtune. Some of my fellow archers have to move left and right when changing from left to right. We know its out of tune somehow. Others dont have this problem.

@Ancient and midway
Yes the 725s are on the weak side. They had been shooting to the right of the group before. I had increased the plunger button to try to offset that. I stiffened the button enough to force the bare shafts to seem "stiff" with the group to try to force the arrows to the left so that i could see my pin. Also yes its centered on my nose, but to the right of my chin since my anchor point is the right side of my face.

@huntmaster
"At about 42lb, give or take, most archers will have their sight pin fairly close to their arrow for 70M.......you have yours set about where most have a much closer mark." I am all the way out on my sight for 70m at about the 9" line on a shibuya ultima. This is generally where many archers at around 40# have their sight mark for my draw length.

I have used the beiter blocks. It looks straight to me. I use the blocks and the back bolts of the riser to determine where the "center" for limb alignment must be. The stabilizer looks like its offset slightly and doesnt seem to be in the "center." I have asked other experienced and non-experienced archers whether it looks straight, and they have said it looks pretty much straight.

I use a T square to measure tiller. its only less 1/8 in off in difference. 7.5in tiller with the top one slightly more. I had screwed my limbs all the way in to get the highest poundage possible out of my limbs. Then screwed them out bit by bit till the tiller became as close to even as possible.

So its definitely entirely possible that I still really do need stiffer arrows or I seriously need to change my form.


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## TheAncientOne (Feb 14, 2007)

gumibears, here are a few good tuning links:

Bow Tuning Tests
http://www.tenzone.u-net.com/Equipment/tuning/pdfs/tuning01.pdf

Tuning for Tens
http://www.texasarchery.org/BoardMembers/RickStonebrakerPages/TuningForTens/TuningForTens.html

Easton Arrow Tuning
http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf

Let's not forget Viper1's

How and why do we tune our bows
http://www.shootingthestickbow.com/Tuning.html

TAO


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## shootemstraight (Jan 13, 2007)

I would suggest aliging your sting blur with the riser. I find it to be a more exact way of aligning it. I do not recommend "covering" your sight with the string for the reasons already mentioned - you can't clearly see your sight or the target if you're looking through your string. However, if you line the blur up with the riser, it will move your group to the right. That will, in turn, require your sight pin to be moved further to the right, behind the riser. You shouldn't be even covering 1/2 your sight.
I strongly agree that you have some tuning issues going on or arrow spine issues. Ideally, in a well tuned setup, your sight will be vertically above your arrow, at all distances. Realistically, being SLIGHTLY off to the left or right of directly above your arrow would be acceptable, but you really shouldn't have left/right variances at distance changes.
Definitely go check out those tuning links shown above.


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## gumibears (Jun 1, 2008)

Thanks guys. I guess ill go through all the tuning exercises. I really only seriously did bare shaft tuning without doing walk back or paper tuning because I am/was extremely lazy to do the other stuff. I'll come back with results within the next month or so.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

Other thing you need to check is if the sight bar is parallel to your string.. Something a lot of people assume will be straight just because..

You mention you just graduated UCB. Do you get to SF? Working yet? Can you come out to the range in SF on Tuesday mid morning? I can take a look at your setup and form to see if there is anything obvious. Send me a PM


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## Acehero (Nov 2, 2007)

If you move your string blur to the right, towards the riser, it will actually move your groups to the left on the target. What you line the string up with isnt terribly critical as long as it is exactly the same each each shot. If your string blur is currently way out left of your sight, it may be that you are tilting your head slightly to the right - couldnt say without seeing you shoot but i know its a possibility as I have played around with head position/string alignment a bit. If you come to full draw, then lean your head left to right, you will notice how your string alignment changes - so it could be said that your string alignment sets your head in a repeatable position rather than the other way round 

I personally shoot with the string aligned to the left hand edge of the sight pin (right handed) as it means my head is in a nice upright position and it requires no extra effort to align it there. Couple of years ago I shot with it on the other side, but had to lean my head slightly left to achieve that. Exactly where it will align best for you will depend on your anchor (how central to your chin) and width of your face - particularly the distance between your eyes. But you can manipulate it by small movements of the head.

I would try and get a coach to have a look at you shoot if possible, they may spot something easily changed that suddenly sorts it out. I'm thinking anchor or head position. One other thing is to make sure you have enough pressure on the plunger and enough centreshot (arrow point to the left of string). If mine is a little soft the sight ring wants to disappear behind the riser.


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## DK Lieu (Apr 6, 2011)

gumibears said:


> Thanks guys. I guess ill go through all the tuning exercises. I really only seriously did bare shaft tuning without doing walk back or paper tuning because I am/was extremely lazy to do the other stuff. I'll come back with results within the next month or so.


Gumi... Here is a summary of what I saw last night when I worked with you. First the good news:

1. You have good strength and endurance. Good back tension and draw arm alignment.
2. Anchor is in the correct location, consistent, and solid.
3. Good clean release.
4. I don't think you have a problem with arrow stiffness or tuning. Shaft stiffness is about right for your poundage, arrow length, point weight,and MK2 arrows. Button location and stiffness seem fine.

Here is what I think you need to work on:

1. String blur location is too far left. Over 2" left of the aperture is beyond what I would consider normal. As Acehero mentioned, if you move your string blur closer to the riser, your arrows will group more to the left (for RH), and you will move your aperture left and away from the riser. String blur should be close to the aperture. My string blur is right on top of the riser at the sight window. I tried to reproduce your sight picture on my set up this morning. The only way I could reproduce what you are seeing is to move my bow arm inward, putting my bow arm out of alignment, so I think you are out of alignment. Also, your string is around 2" away from your chest a full draw, which reinforces my suspicion that you are a bit out of alignment. 
2. Your bow shoulder is too high; right now over 1" above the arrow line. This means that your arm is not in the socket. You have good muscle development, so you muscle your arm into place and shoot descent scores, but you will eventually tire and become inconsistent. Please follow my directions for getting your shoulder back down, starting with a Theraband and then with a light draw bow. Top of shoulder should be below, or at least level with, the arrow line.
3. You have a slight collapse upon release. You need to maintain a slight push on the bow all the way through release. This slight collapse, combined with the misalignment mentioned above, would result in arrows grouping right, and thus force you to move your aperture to the right.


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## gumibears (Jun 1, 2008)

Hey Dennis,
So I practiced with what you said. It feels totally weird with my shoulder now in a lower spot. However, the results seem to be showing. I didnt have to move my sight left and right between 70 and 18. I can see the sight both times. 5 out of 6 bare shafts in the gold at 70 and the last one in the red muahhahah

I dunno if I can keep it the same way all the time though. It still feels very very weird. The string blur is now very close to the left of the sight. Sometimes it goes into the middle of the sight and I dont like that.
I'll keep playing with it, but it seems to be doing great.


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## icehaven (Nov 30, 2010)

GO BEARS! (i'm on the UCLA archery team, see you at state indoor  )

i had the exact same problem as you. just wanted to say so, even though i'm too late. my fix was head rotation. lol. have a nice day


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## DK Lieu (Apr 6, 2011)

@gumi... Amazing what a little active coaching can do. Your bow arm probably feels a bit awkward because you've had your shoulder high for such a long time. The first step is to bring it back down. The second step is to learn to relax the proper muscles so the low position feels natural. Right now, you probably have unnecessary muscles firing all over the place because you are trying to force the shoulder down. Once you start to relax, you'll find that both your accuracy and your endurance will improve, although 5/6 bare shafts in the gold sounds pretty darn good. If you're on the field this week, I'm wondering if you might have a quick look at my form. Apparently I've recently developed some sort of inconsistency that I can't spot myself. At 18 m, I can group rather well. But on one day, my group will be 3" left, and another day 3" right. I think I know what it might be, but an extra set of eyes would be helpful. 

@ icehaven... Yeah! Uh... yeah, uh... go... uh, go.... bruins? Gosh, why was that so darn hard to say? Well, I guess a bruin is a bear too. Anyway, GO BEARS! Will see you guys at CA State Indoors. We're expecting some pretty heated competition from you guys this year.


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## skunklover (Aug 4, 2011)

So, I have an interesting question about string blur. As a right handed archer, my string blur is to the left of my sight ring. However, unlike the OP, my sight ring is pretty much centered where it should be, over the arrow. 
I was able to get the string blur to sit between the sight ring and left edge of the riser, but that brings up another problem, namely my right eye only being slightly dominant and so when I have the blur there, my eye dominance jumps back and forth, making it extremely hard to aim.

My question is: Is there any benefit to trying to move my string blur to between the riser and sight pin if I don't have any issues with my sight pin running into my riser?


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## gumibears (Jun 1, 2008)

@Dennis I will be free to go thurs/friday this week. The lights will not be on.
@skunk It shouldnt matter. The only reason most ppl have it between sight and riser is cause now you have two reference points to base your string blur on and your arrows will go more left allowing you to see your sight.


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## kshatriya (Jul 14, 2010)

Ah, After talking to a few people I decided against trying to move my string blur for now. Thanks for the input.


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## TheAncientOne (Feb 14, 2007)

skunklover said:


> So, I have an interesting question about string blur. As a right handed archer, my string blur is to the left of my sight ring. However, unlike the OP, my sight ring is pretty much centered where it should be, over the arrow.


That is not unususal, if keeping the string blur to the left edge of the sight ring works of you, by all means keep it there. One thing to check before you do though is to make sure you have the proper head rotation.

TAO


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