# Problems beginning with 50# draw weight?



## LAA (Sep 9, 2015)

My compounds are between 60 & 64 lbs. I have 30,40, & 50 lb. recurves, at 28". 50 lbs is just too much for me to hold, form wise. I prefer the 40, out of the three. 29 1/2 draw length, which adds a few lbs.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

jel -

The truth is, it depends on what you're ultimately looking for. In fact, I've seen a few people start off with that weight and do fairly well by today's standards for "trad". Certainly good enough for close range hunting. If that's what you want, and you can draw and anchor with that bow, you might just be fine. Going any deeper may not matter, and certainly a lot of other things we discuss won't matter either.

If you want more than that, tighter groups at longer distances, for example, then things start changing. On trad forums, "aiming" is a frequent topic for discussion, (read - debate), when in reality, it's probably less than 10% of making consistent shots. (Think about it, with "trad" you're either at spitting distances or if you go longer, you're using an aiming system, whether you know it or not.) That leaves form, that takes practice - and that's where the lighter bows start to shine. There are just too many things you're not going to be able to learn, much less master, if the weight of the bow is a factor in your shot sequence.

Viper1 out.


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## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

Shooting Traditional is just way too much fun to be pooped and struggling with heavy draw weights after only a few shots. Very few archers can shoot a 50# bow for a full 60 arrow NFAA round with good form and consistency throughout the entire event. On the other hand nearly anyone can do it with a 30# bow. I think you will find that it takes lots of repetitions to become proficient shooting a recurve. It takes consistency, good form and a repeatable aiming system - all of which take time at full draw to properly set up and execute - again very difficult with a 50# bow. I would guess the ratio of guys that start with a 50# bow that said it was too heavy to begin with (after they actually figure out how to shoot) is very high. But like Viper said above, it has been done and maybe you are the guy to do it. Personally I went light and stacked the odds in my favor. I am very glad that I did.


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## 5 Arrow (Nov 20, 2015)

The biggest disadvantage to beginning traditional archery with too heavy draw weight bow is it is not much fun. Set up a training program, keep an accurate honest log. Expect to begin having fun in a month or so and really enjoying yourself after 6 months of dedicated shooting. Another thing that happens with heavy draw weight bows anything over 45lb in my opinion is that strength and control fall off pretty rapidly when you do not shoot it on a regular basis.


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## jelmore (Sep 24, 2013)

Thanks for the replies. Im going to keep an eye out for a affordable lighter recurve.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

This may sound like a dumb idea, but look into PVC bows. They're slow, kind of uncomfortable, but when you can make a shootable bow for less than $5 in twenty minutes they're not really a "bad" option. I believe 3/4" PVC at 66" long (just string it up) should put you in the 30# range around the standard 28-29" draw.


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## Biathlonman (Aug 2, 2007)

I started with a #50 and don't think it hurt me. I'd start with a #45 if starting from scratch, but a person in reasonable shape should be ok with #50.


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## Captainkirk (Sep 18, 2014)

I started out with (and stll shoot today) a Ben Pearson ("Jet") glass bow at 35#. Ebay has a few on there all the time, usually starting at around 10 bucks and selling for under 50. I've had mine for close to 50 years and it still shoots like the day I got it. I recently bought a Tamerlane in 35# to work on form and function, but any old cheapie will do. The nice thing about the all-glass bows is they don't delaminate like wood/glass bows do and they take a beating.
One thing; shooting a heavy bow for an hour a night will take a toll on tendons and shoulders. I ended up sitting out a whole month this summer because I overdid it. Never would have happened with the Pearson or Tamerlane, I don't believe.
It kind of boils down to your age and physical condition as well.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Biathlonman said:


> I started with a #50 and don't think it hurt me. I'd start with a #45 if starting from scratch, but a person in reasonable shape should be ok with #50.


I started with 55#. After awhile, it felt easy, like a rubber band, and I moved up, and I stayed there for awhile. I was pretty happy with my shooting. Then a friend convinced me to drop back down to 60# for awhile. I tried it, I liked it. Then, after listening to a bunch of sissies, I decided that I could drop back to mid fifties for practice. I noticed that I started progressing again. I dropped down to mid forties, noticed that while it didn't _feel_ like a big difference, I was scoring better, more consistently, over multiple day shoots especially. I got myself a 30# bow recently, and have noticed that while I don't shoot better with it, at least as far as casual observations, it does allow me to take a whole lot more time running through my shot, exploring what I'm doing, what I'm not. I can hold at full draw, think about what I'm doing, and train myself to make corrections with more control and deliberation.

I'm not going to tell anybody else what they can or can't do. There are always exceptions. But, if I was giving myself advice, I'd say, start at 25-30, take your time, and move up at leisure. I met a former Israeli commando shooting, I think it was a 20# recurve. He certainly didn't have a problem with it. I have a friend, a former NCAA division I wrestler who held his own in the Big 10 try my daughter's 20# recurve after that 55# 'starter' bow, who remarked that he liked the light bow a whole lot more. I think I'm finally getting around to divesting my ego from draw weight, and I like it


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## Captainkirk (Sep 18, 2014)

BarneySlayer said:


> I think I'm finally getting around to divesting my ego from draw weight, and I like it


Well said!


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

Look at it in another way; you will probably _enjoy_ a lighter bow a lot more than your 50#er, especially since you are just starting out. A 50# recurve is not exactly a heavy bow, but it can really kick the snot out of you if your form is off. I've been shooting all of my life and have had a couple relatively long layoffs where the stickbows hung on the wall and coming back, picking up a 50# or better recurve or longbow is a lesson in humility.

For pretty much all of my adult life I shot bows in the 55#-60# range and in recent years have gone down to 45#-50# with no noticeable change in arrow trajectory. I do notice a significant increase in comfort and shooting stamina. I just plain like shooting the lighter bows better and at 45# with a well tuned arrow feel like I'm ready for any deer that walks the earth. 

And on top of that, the advice you got about learning on a bow of that weight is no doubt correct for most people. I think if I were to start over a nice, upgradable take down recurve or longbow would be the way to go. A set of light limbs (35# or so) and a pair of heavier limbs for hunting and you would be set. Or pick up a nice used lighter weight bow to learn and practice with and take up your Bear recurve for hunting season.


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## Azzurri (Mar 10, 2014)

Downsides, for a start:
Endurance may suffer with fading strength and performance over a round. Can handle it first arrow but what about the 50th? If you only need one -- say, hunting -- not so big a problem. If you need 60 or more, problem. You might start out drilling 5s and end up with tired 1s.

Precision may suffer, if you are overbowed from the start you may spray arrows because you are lucky to get to anchor and shaking your bow arm.

Injuries from too much weight, shoulders but also things like tennis elbow.

Working so hard to make the shot that you have no time to execute form.


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## MAC 11700 (Feb 22, 2011)

I have shot heavy bows all my life and know full well that most healthy adult males can shoot a 50 lb recurve, but you need to understand what it takes to be really consistent.. And consistent is what you are after in Archery. Consistency is the foundation of the type of accuracy everyone strives for wither target shooting or hunting. 

Since you are used to shooting a compound you know that if you are aiming and your sight pin is all over the place you aren't going to hit what you are aiming at. Shooting a recurve is no different, even if you think you aren't aiming... In reality though you are aiming but just utilizing a different sight picture..Either from memory or utilizing something else. Some use the arrow tip, shaft, rest, riser but everyone aims, even when they proudly proclaim they don't, otherwise everyone could be blindfolded and be just as accurate. 

There was a time when we needed really heavy draw weights to get good distance and penetration.. But that time has passed with today's equipment and materials used.50 lbs of draw weight is a lot to hold at full draw steadily for enough time to shoot accurately for a beginner, because it takes time to learn how to utilize the correct muscles and to build to engrain the sight picture... It just is.. Especially if you are trying to learn how to be the most accurate you can be. 

It's a wonderful thought to think about being able to shoot like Bryan Ferguson or Howard Hill.. But most people don't realize that they shot thousands and thousands of arrows honing their skills to be that good. 

Sure.. you can grip it and rip it and can be pretty good, but you won't be consistently good.. and that's what you want. And since you plan to hunt the animals you hunt deserve this. 

Personally... If you really are serious about shooting a Trad bow.. Put the 50 lb bow away or sell it or trade it for a lower poundage bow that you can draw back and hold on target for at least 5-10 seconds.. If you are having to rush you will never be able to be consistent nor will you know what you are doing wrong when you miss. Now if you can do this with your 50lb bow.. Dropping down to a 40lb bow weight will make it even easier to learn. and practice with even if you go up in draw weight. 

Mac


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## Hank D Thoreau (Dec 9, 2008)

The problem comes from having the wrong muscles take charge under heavy load, inhibiting your ability to train the correct muscles. The missconception is that it is about building strength. As soon as someone starts talking about how they can gain strength to shoot heavier bows then they are done from a form perspective. This focus on draw weight seems to be a trad thing that you do not routinely find on the target side. I do a lot of form work with stretch bands because I cannot yet execute what I am trying to learn with my lightest 18 pound form bow. As Viper says, it is all about what you want. I will add that it is also about what you are willing to commit to. In trad a weekend clinic is considered the ultimate training, while on the target side folks work regularly with coaches for years. It takes time, commitment, and a sound approach to develop good form. Think of the compound guy who high draws and struggles just to draw his bow. He might ask how he can develop more strength when he should be reducing weight and learning how to execute properly. Really good compound shooters draw smoothly allowing the storage of energy in their backs. The routine compound shooter uses letoff as a crutch for poor form. I have seen compound guys with great form pick up a recurve and execute shots better than most trad recurve shooters I know. That does not mean they can score better out of the gate. Brady Ellison moved from compound and now is one of the best recurve target shooters in the world, and is also a good bow hunter.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## jelmore (Sep 24, 2013)

I appreciate all the answers and am definitely going to get a lighter bow. I can draw and hold the 50 but can tell its too much struggle to be able to concentrate on anything else.


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## steve morley (Dec 24, 2005)

jelmore said:


> Thanks for the replies. Im going to keep an eye out for a affordable lighter recurve.


If you look on YouTube you can learn how to make a PVC bow for about $10.00, you could build one as a trainer bow.


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## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

Guys get this backwards also - spend your money on a nice lightweight. That is the bow that you will end up shooting 90% of the time. Any old beater will work to hunt with. Just my opinion of course.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Or, if you spend the money on a nice lighter rig, the performance is usually on par with a heavier bow of lesser design (performance wise) when it comes time to hunt. More weight doesn't necessarily mean more better. (Grammatical error used purposefully).

Although it's safe to say this is just musing out loud because the OP is on board with trying something else


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## Grey Carson (6 mo ago)

Wow! Really great information! I’m now retired and interested in getting more active with my archery bug. I have an old InterNature “Bullseye” takedown w/35# limbs that I have enjoyed shooting casually (backyard shooting) for years. I was thinking I needed an upgrade, but now realize what I have is probably just what I need to ramp up with a coach and more consistent, focused practice. Hopefully, I will build strength and good form and avoid frustration or even injury. I think I will know when (or if) I should consider moving to something a little heavier.


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## 1canvas (Mar 29, 2009)

Biathlonman said:


> I started with a #50 and don't think it hurt me. I'd start with a #45 if starting from scratch, but a person in reasonable shape should be ok with #50.


I started three years ago and shoot good for hunting distances. I just think someone starting out with high poundage has a very hard way to go. Form would definitely suffer es with the high volume of shooting required.


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## Grey Carson (6 mo ago)

I severely damaged my right shoulder via electrocution about 4 years ago and have been working to regain strength since. I’m finally comfortable at 35-40#’s, but not quite confident to move any higher yet. I’m considering a mid-priced adjustable compound set-up to move me forward.


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