# what is better paper tuning or laser tuning?



## bigin325 (Oct 3, 2009)

as previous post, my arrows are not in line with the level marks on my X-force, which is better to have those level or have your bow shooting good paper?

problem with sight being maxed out up and down still there.

let me rephrase this a little what is better to go by the paper tuning hitting good, or lazer tuning? cause my arrow is not level on the line that the x-force has on the rest area of the bow it is to the right of it or towards the riser.


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## AR_Headhunter (Aug 17, 2009)

Start out with the laser. Then paper tune. Then walk back tune.


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## mdewitt71 (Jul 20, 2005)

AR_Headhunter said:


> Start out with the laser. Then paper tune. Then walk back tune.



*X2*:darkbeer:


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## bigin325 (Oct 3, 2009)

do you think that the arrow being of center on the rest area of the bow is a problem if it is giving bullet holes through paper?


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## fletched (May 10, 2006)

Lazers can't shoot a bow so they are really of not much use. You can use a lazer to get close but you can do that with your eye as well. Paper tuning is a good way to tune your arrow rest. As for tuning your bow, that should already be done prior to tuning your rest. Depending on the bow design, cam lean, cam washers, cable gaurd and slide or roller, grip torque, arrow spine, nock travel and nock height, shooting form, draw length and arrow rest, the center shot can vary left or right of center and up and down from level. If you are getting good holes through the paper then see how well it groups at 30-40 yards and how well it shoots different broadheads. It is hard to tell you a definate answer just by the given info.


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

fletched said:


> Lazers can't shoot a bow so they are really of not much use. You can use a lazer to get close but you can do that with your eye as well.


agree, i see no reason to not just eyeball as a bow NEEDS to be shot and the laser is your first tuning you ever do, so eyeball it and then shoot it, save the $100 from the laser for something else


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## Nitroboy (Jan 15, 2006)

dwagoner said:


> agree, i see no reason to not just eyeball as a bow NEEDS to be shot and the laser is your first tuning you ever do, so eyeball it and then shoot it, save the $100 from the laser for something else


Ditto I eyeball first, then walkback tune with FP, then BH tune to get FP/BH to hit same POI, has worked for me and all my customers


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## konrad (Mar 29, 2009)

Fetched is right.

Bore sighting a rifle is NOT firing a fifle.

The projectile on the paper tells the story.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

I'm confused or you're not explaining things well. So far everyone has replied with good information, but you talk of "arrows not in line with level marks."
If you're referring to the arrow aligned with the string and looking at the sights, most see the sights slightly off to the side, left for a right hand shooter, right if a left hand shooter. This is deemed natural.
If lining up the string up with the sights then the arrow/rest would be closer to the riser.

As for your sight being maxed out. This could be one of several things. One, your peep is not set properly. Two, your timing could be off. Three, the sight is not compatible with the way your bow is set up.


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## bigin325 (Oct 3, 2009)

The problem started when i was paper tuning my bow. It started off tearing left, straight left, so i moved the rest to the right. I am shooting a hostage pro arrow rest and jst replace the brushes, and i only moved it one little line on the rest, then another after i shot again. It was shooting bullet holes, so i left it alone. When you look down the arrow on the x-force there is an alignment mark on the rest shelf, and the arrow was to the right of the line, not much but enough to tell that it was pointed way right. So i walked back and shot 20 yards and the arrow shot way, way right, so i moved the sight all the way to the right and i am shooting a G5 sight, i even had to take the screw out and move the sight to the farthest screw position. Thats when i ran into some trouble, and i dont think it can be the spine of the arrow becasue i am shooting carbon express maxima 350's what is said to be right for my bow at 70 lbs and 29 inch draw.

But any way i moved everything back and am going to try again, with walk back tuning and broadhead tuning following that. Is that a good idea? I think maybe the vanes were making contact with the cables, so i think if i move the rest a little right it should work dont know for sure though, if anybody could give me some tips, this is a reply to the post before this.


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## Nitroboy (Jan 15, 2006)

If your cables are getting hit then you can rotate the cable rod alittle to give more clearance, just don't move it too much it will affect the cam lean.

Yes, walkback tuning then BH tuning is a great way to tune a bow. If your spined right and have good form those two tuning methods will do a fine job.


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## dpattarcher (Mar 7, 2009)

Might as well throw the lazer away. On Mathews they will not even get you close, i have set up many hoyt's also and again the lazer just wasted time. The best thing to do is start at the manufacturers recommended starting point, for example mathews is 1/8" nock high 11/16" to 13/16" centershot it always tunes very close to there recommendations i would assume all manufacturers give you a starting point.


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## wyoming4x4 (Mar 16, 2009)

*paper tune issues.*

Let someone else shoot your bow and see if it duplicates on paper. I have problems paper tuning because of a hand issue. Old injury and I have a slight right and left when I shoot. I know this and tune for this. I just have to keep my form as consistant as possible. When I paper tune I can do bullet holes but my rest is way out of wack and then I have very little adjustment. Lazer is a good place to start but its not perfect. A lot of the paper issues is usually form issues. I have a fellow shooter I TRUST to help shoot/verify my bow on paper. On my bow setup lazer gets me really close. The lazer just lets you tune your arrow to the string. Be sure to run that lazer to the very end of the arrow. I've shot thousands of arrows through the hostage and hostage pro and brush wear is a major problem within 100+ arrows. haven't shot the new brushes and hopefully they are better than the old brushes. Both are good but the lazer helps you start at a more consistant spot if your new and need childproof starting spot. I like childproof applications.


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