# what is the best tuning for field



## Kade (Jan 11, 2011)

The same tuning that is best for any other type of shooting. 

That being said I don't paper tune, walk back tune or bare shaft tune. I don't have a need to paper or walk back tune. I may shoot a bare shaft once in a blue moon just because I have an arrow with vanes missing. I set the bow up ad then just group tune. 


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## Mbmadness (May 19, 2009)

OK , was not expecting that answer . Figured there was a formula to the madness . Thanx for reply


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## rock monkey (Dec 28, 2002)

what ever method gives you the most confidence and best results to your standards.

of course, none of it means skwat if your 1st or 2nd axis is off. you'll have better results whizzin on a forest fire.


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## Kade (Jan 11, 2011)

Mbmadness said:


> OK , was not expecting that answer . Figured there was a formula to the madness . Thanx for reply



Nope there is no formula. Set the bow up. Then tune it to shoot how you want. The arrows come out of the bow the same way no matter what your doing and have no idea if they are flying at an elk, whitetail, zebra, Vegas face, 80 yd walkup face, 12 ring on a 3D target or a 90m FITA face.

I spend more time setting the bow up to fit me and hold the way I want then I do playing with arrow tune.


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## edgerat (Dec 14, 2011)

The very best in the world group tune, for the most part. The thing about that is they can shoot the same shot time after time. If you are struggling with your consistency in form, I would say most methods are going to be difficult. I have done paper tuning to determine center-shot, and then to determine spine tune, then French tune to get your left and rights out and then creep tune at the end. Group tuning is the easiest, if you can hack it


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## CANDYBOATWRIGHT (Dec 4, 2008)

define how you group tune


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## edgerat (Dec 14, 2011)

Eye-ball the centershot and then go out to the longest range you can comfortably shoot at and start shooting. Keep track of your scores and make little changes to the rest and see where it shoots the tightest groups.


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## Kade (Jan 11, 2011)

Actually with group tuning you can take "scoring" and throw it in the trash. Pay ZERO attention to where your arrows hit other then their location to one another on the target. 

I do my group tuning USUALLY at 60 yds just because the practice bales at my range has a max of 60 yds. If I am at another club I will do it at 70yds, 80 yds or 90m even. But most times I do it at 60-70yds. But it can be done at 40 yds if that is the distance you feel comfortable doing it. You can also do it closer as I do it indoors at 20 and 30 yds.

What I do if setting up a bow at the beginning of the season and have just built arrows and have no marks is this. 

1. Warm up with a couple ends at 20 and get a mark. I never shoot more then 2-3 ends of 4-5 arrows here. Usually just shoot enough to turn my nocks a little to make sure all shafts are hitting together. Then go to 40 yds and repeat.

2. Shoot a couple ends at 60 yds, one or two ends is really all it really takes me to get a decent mark here. I am also weeding out the arrows that need a little nock tweak. I then take a few ends to turn those arrows into the group. In all it usually doesn't take me more then 5-6 ends to get EVERY arrow in my quiver hitting together. During those 5-6 ends you will notice a pattern start to develop. :wink: A very important thing in this step is that ONCE YOU GET A DECENT MARK THAT PUTS YOU IN OR DAMN NEAR CLOSE TO THE DOT...DO NOT TOUCH YOUR SIGHT AGAIN. PERIOD.

3. I then look at that pattern that has developed. Generally from my tuning experience and how I set my bows up to start with, I don't have ANY issues with my arrows vertical impact. But if you do you will need to move your rest or your loop up or down to pull the "fliers" into the group. If your "fliers" are hitting high you need to move your rest DOWN. Not a ton, just a "click" It will get better. Then shoot it again, and move it one more "click". If it gets worse put it back, if it gets better still move it another "click". I have found that for me and my setups I am generally VERY close and never have to or VERY rarely do I have to move my rest in one direction more then a click. If your "fliers" are hitting low you go up.

This of course is assuming that you have already creep tuned your bow. Which again I take care of in my initial setup before I even fire an arrow at more then 20 yds. I have been shooting Hoyts and doing this since the cam 1/2 came out so I know how to cut out a lot of tuning time for ME by just setting up my rigs closer to how it is going to end up.

3. This step is usually step 2 for me 99.999999% of the time since I don't usually have up and down issues related to tuning. Here we are going to look at windage adjustments. You want to do this AFTER you do elevation adjustments. I learned long ago that if you do the windage 1st your going to have to go back and do the windage over usually. :doh: But again your going to notice your "fliers" going one way or another. If they are going right, move your rest left to pull your "fliers" to your group. Again ONE "click" is usually enough two at the most. Just like with your elevation you will reach a point that the arrows come into the group and go back out the other direction if you over correct. Once you start going back out the other direction go back one click. :wink:

4. Sight in your bow. 

When you have finished these steps your bow will group the way it should, again assuming that you have dialed in your initial setup like I mentioned as far as dl, creep tuning and spine tuning if you want to play with draw weight and or point weight, tiller tuning and stabilizer tuning. You can also play with that other stuff whenever really. This is just my group tuning method.

I also am not afraid to step on a course and give my rest a click one way or another DURING a round. I wouldn't do it at a major shoot as I would have already worked the "bugs" out. But anyone that knows me or shoots with me often knows that I have no problem stepping on a range and setting up a bow from scratch while scoring.

Before someone ask....as I know they will more then likely.

I shoot a Hoyt, 

I set my tiller even or darn close to it.
I set my top cam to hit first, how much you need depends your actually shot and how aggressive you are. If I set my timing dead on I generally don't have to put my bottom cam off by more then one full turn. That's on my current bow type (Katera XL). My Pro and Ultra Elites were slightly different depending on limbs and cam type but not usually more then a 1/2 twist one way or another.
I set my nock height with a bubble, just slightly above level :wink: I DO NOT paper tune 99.9999999% of the time and eyeball and or measure my center shot. 

After group tuning I generally find that my arrow makes the prettiest nock high left tear you have ever seen in paper. Most times if I shoot through paper without really group tuning I will get a very similar tear. So if I do paper tune which is usually only for indoors or if I have just put on a new set of strings I will set my tear to a slight nock high left tear. Then go from there.


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## Mbmadness (May 19, 2009)

Thanx Kade , thats some awesome info right there .


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## Kade (Jan 11, 2011)

:thumb: :darkbeer:


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## Kade (Jan 11, 2011)

man there sure are a lot of field shooters out there and a ton of people that have looked at this thread. Guess a lot of people either don't set up their bows worth a damn, have someone else set them up for them or they are just glad that someone else asked this magical question. :zip:


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## Brad HT (Dec 9, 2006)

Kade said:


> man there sure are a lot of field shooters out there and a ton of people that have looked at this thread. Guess a lot of people either don't set up their bows worth a damn, have someone else set them up for them or they are just glad that someone else asked this magical question. :zip:


Nah... its all just me re-reading it over and over. lol

I am actually just setting up some new CXL's for indoor and will give this a try to see if I can make em fly any better. Though I just cant get away from how awesome my 27's fly...

B~


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## Kade (Jan 11, 2011)

Brad HT said:


> Nah... its all just me re-reading it over and over. lol
> 
> I am actually just setting up some new CXL's for indoor and will give this a try to see if I can make em fly any better. Though I just cant get away from how awesome my 27's fly...
> 
> B~


:chortle: 

It won't make them fly better if your tuned up. But it will make them group tighter and be more forgiving. :wink: 

Before anyone ask yes it works indoors at 20yds. I do this from 30 yds indoors at times but usually just do it at 20. 


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## Brad HT (Dec 9, 2006)

Kade said:


> :chortle:
> 
> It won't make them fly better if your tuned up. But it will make them group tighter and be more forgiving. :wink:
> 
> ...


But... But... Those aluminums are expensive and I don't want to ding them up by shooting at the same spot!
;-)
B~


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## Kade (Jan 11, 2011)

Brad HT said:


> But... But... Those aluminums are expensive and I don't want to ding them up by shooting at the same spot!
> ;-)
> B~



Expensive. If it wasn't for Pro Points you could get two doz X7s built for the price if just the shafts I shot last year :chortle: 

But nobody said anything about actually shooting arrows at the same dot at 20yds :wink:


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## archerpap (Apr 24, 2006)

I get a bullet hole at 20yds and don't look back. Fairly consistant mid 50's shooter. Confidence in your equipment helps alot!! I did that this year. Had a new VE+ and struggled to get in the 50's. Swapped it back for my old VE and the next week shot a 557. I knew the bow and knew how I could shoot it. Shoot it the rest of the year outdoors including outdoor nationals. Now I have my new VE+ crunched up and shooting very well, so this will be next years shooter.


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