# bare shaft won't move.



## gofor (Feb 4, 2013)

I know you say you have the center shot dead on, but sometimes just a 32nd of an inch will make a difference as to what is the real center shot is when taking into account riser twist, a little cam lean, slight imbalance in limbs, etc. throughout the entire power stroke. I would try bumping the rest a hair one way, and see if it helps. If not, try the other. If that brings them together, I think you will find that it still will be good when walk back tuning. It has worked for me broadhead tuning.

That said, my answer continuously hits low left with bare shaft, but field points and broadheads hit right together. 

JMTCW

Go


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## P&y only (Feb 26, 2009)

G r i p !


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## P&y only (Feb 26, 2009)

Right handed? Draw length too short.


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## killerloop (Mar 16, 2008)

Over spines? Prob doubtfull more then likely the Indian. Operator error.


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## P&y only (Feb 26, 2009)

Bareshaft will fly in a straight line with your forearm bone. So that would indicate a short draw on a righty.


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## SARASR (Oct 30, 2009)

P&y only said:


> Bareshaft will fly in a straight line with your forearm bone. So that would indicate a short draw on a righty.


Have to agree with P&Y, when changes to the bow changes nothing, the the issue is somewhere in the shooters form.


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## Guardian Shoote (Jan 11, 2007)

X2.



sarasr said:


> have to agree with p&y, when changes to the bow changes nothing, the the issue is somewhere in the shooters form.


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

jwrigley said:


> I run a reasonably heavy side bar (8oz) low and close to the bottom cam and removing that moved the bareshaft group 1/2 - 1" closer but it's puzzling me what is going on.


This tells me it's torque issue. If you need the side bar to steady your float, try adding a VERY small amount of hand back on the grip. Adding a little more pressure on your thumb side of the grip WILL move the bareshaft over to the fletched if you're a right hand shooter.


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## jwrigley (Nov 8, 2012)

Thanks for the replies. Yes, I am right handed. I don't think that my draw length is causing the problem. I have fine tuned the draw length to give me the best possible sight picture. I have made a short video overhead that shows my elbow pretty much in line with the arrow. I will investigate the torque suggestion tomorrow. i find that I have a very thin grip. what I mean by that is that the left edge of my grip runs down my lifeline. My hand is relaxed and open. I will also try moving the rest slightly but I doubt that will make a difference as it made no difference to the nock righttear when I was paper tuning.

[video]https://www.dropbox.com/s/cla8netpqsjy7ud/IMG_0767%20%282%29.MOV[/video]


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## P&y only (Feb 26, 2009)

pics of you gripping the bow?


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## jwrigley (Nov 8, 2012)

Moving the rest either way only increased the distance the bareshafts grouped. shifting hand position only increased the size of the groups both fletched and even more so bareshaft


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## P&y only (Feb 26, 2009)

Ok. What spined arrows?


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## jwrigley (Nov 8, 2012)

x7 2314 28" long with 180 grain pro points. Bow measured at 53 lb which is 2 turns down from full in. Winding the limbs full in or letting them off two further turns does not move the bareshaft either. draw length is 27 1/4"


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

Which way did you change your grip? I had the same exact thing as you happening to my bareshafts. They were a few inches left and a little nock right compared to my fletched. I added a little more pressure to the thumb side of my grip so that my stabilizer moved left by a degree or two. After that change, I started busting nocks and shooting through fletchings with my bareshafts at 20 and 25 yards.


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## jbuckles39 (Jan 25, 2010)

I had my carbon element do this. It was in my yoke. I yoke tuned the bow and got perfect holes. Just an idea?


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## jaydub (May 16, 2008)

I gave up on a pce for the same reason.(Right tear)Definitely in MY Bowhand. To get same p.o.i. With bare shafts, I had to hold the bow in such a way that it felt like I was torquing it to the left. Just an incompatibility between my hand and that particular riser. It scored well, but my fickle mind would not let go of the fact that the bow wasn't tuned. Lost my ***** on that deal. Lol. Good luck, as I never could get it right.


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## PCB (Jun 17, 2013)

Are you only using one bare shaft? If so, rotate the nock and try again


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## [email protected] (Feb 17, 2013)

I also have a PSE bow I cant seem to get bareshaft tuned. Believe me, Ive tried just about everything I can think of. Grip, DL adjustments, rest adjustments, cable rod adjustments, new nocks, new center serving, poundage adjustments, new points, new strings. I have broke the bow down looking for a warp in my cams, measured nock travel, used lasers and strings.
As Ive said, Ive tried just about everything. I was getting 1-1.5" groups nearly every time at 30 yards which it pretty darn good, but it messed with me that I could see the arrow kicking around so poorly and couldnt get a bareshaft to hit. I havent shot my target bow in maybe six months, but I would put my next paycheck I could get a bareshaft to fly over 100 yards first try. That bow almost shoots itself.

Try some liquid dish soap on your bowhand and get enough on your hand so your bow slides around in your hand. Now shoot a bare shaft and see what happens. The dishsoap will make it next to impossible to torque your bow.


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## dillio67 (Oct 1, 2004)

make sure your 2nd and 3rd axis is set before your walkback tune.If your bubble is out at 50 -60 yds your falsely tuning your centershot.
Just a thought


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## ron w (Jan 5, 2013)

off the top of my head, with 180gr. points and 2314's, shafts, id' say you're a little soft on spine, given 28 inch length.


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