# Bullet hole with bare shafts but a low tear on fletched....



## MBaboon (Jan 28, 2012)

Hopefully this will be my last tuning question. You guys, especially nuts & bolts, have been most helpful. So I finally got bare shafts to shoot bullet holes through paper after kitchen sink tuning, and a slight extra tweak to my my rest. My bare shafts group with field points out to 20 yards. Broadheads (QAD Exodus) are now finally grouping with field tips too. I am ready to hunt. 

But I'm still a little puzzled how my fletched arrows are not shooting clean through paper, whereas bareshafts are. Fletched arrows are tearing low, or knock high. This is at about 6-7 ft from my paper. 


Shooting a Hoyt Rampage XT, about 64#'s, 30" draw, whisker biscuit, New DCA Hunters, 300 spine with an extra 50 grains up front.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

I've heard of putting a piece of tape of heat shrink tubing on the back of the shaft, equal to the weight of the fletching (supposedly to get the FOC and spine the same)....maybe give it a try.


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## sgtdww504 (Feb 19, 2012)

If my bare shafts, BH, and FPs are all hitting the same screw the paper shoot it and enjoy. But I'm still trying to get my bare shafts to work with me. I just changed my rest back.


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## athomPT (Dec 14, 2008)

Add a piece of tape the same weight of the vanes also spray foot powder on the fletched arrow to check for clearance issues. I have found a mm change can make all the difference.


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## jab73 (Jan 22, 2013)

Flechings interference in the wb rest..

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## MBaboon (Jan 28, 2012)

So I have tried a few things and all back to where I started, maybe a little worse.

First I evened up the weight of my bare shafts to the fletched. The difference was negligible.

I tried rotating the nocks a little bit which should eliminate the potential for wb contact with the blazers. No effect.

I tried twists, up to 1.5 full twists in the control cable, both ways, no effect.

Then finally I messed with the angle of the wb and moving it fwd/aft ever so slightly to try change the angle just a bit. All this did was make my tears worse, sometimes adding a left tear to my low tear. 

Oh well. Now I just have to get back to where I was with the biscuit. Can't quite find that perfect bullet hole again. Should have just left well enough alone.


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## bbjavelina (Jan 30, 2005)

It's never too late to get it perfect. Take a break for a few days. Have a beverage if you're so inclined. Come back to it later in the week.

I shot biscuits exclusively for several years, but I never shot Blazers. I always shot feathers.

Keep in mind that a "perfect" tear at one distance does not necessarily mean a perfect tear at a different distance. Just my opinion, but I think paper is a good way to see how the arrow is coming off the bow. That means I want to start CLOSE. Even only a few feet. But, I never trust paper at only one or two distances.

Honestly, if you've got bare shafts, fletched shafts, and BH hitting together it may be a good time to just enjoy shooting your well tuned bow and find something else to stress over.

Tuning does not make a bow more accurate, it just sometimes makes it easier for you to shoot it more accurately. 

The very best of luck to you.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

If your bare shafts are shooting great down range and hitting with your fletched vanes and all is good. ON TARGET. 

Why give two seconds thought to what your fletched shafts tear in paper looks like? Unless for someone reason it's a monster tear. You have a slight nock high year because that's actually usually better then a bullet hole tear. 

When I do paper tune I tune to a nock high left tear...if I don't paper tune and just set it up. If I go back later and shoot paper. It's usually a slight nock high left tear. 



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## threetoe (May 13, 2011)

"Flechings interference in the wb rest.."

My thoughts too.
You are shooting a whisker biscuit, get rid of it.
Rip Cord is your best bet.

Install a drop away. Get some spray foot powder and spray a couple coats on the veins. Let the coats dry before applying another.
Shoot them and look for signs. Even the SLIGHTEST contact WILL screw the pooch.


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## rjwillow (Jun 18, 2013)

The weight difference or adding tape and such to make the arrow weigh and or spine the same would realistically only account for a horizontal tear. The low part of your low left tear indicates more of a fletching clearance issue. And spine shouldn't be enough of a factor at that level anyway unless you are shooting fingers...
So I would suspect fletching contact. Check cable clearance first and then maybe do the foot powder thing. If nothing really shows, it could still be the WB dragging a little.
WBs are fine, but you can get buildup or soft spots over time. A new insert can fix that should you chose to stay with the WB. Vacuuming it out and brushing it out with an old arrow (in and out while twisting it) may help as well. One thing to look for also is curling of the edges of the vanes. I know that I am getting drag from my WBs when my blazers take on a bit of a curve. So I either turn the nock a few degrees or just live with it. It still tunes and shoots fine.
The advise of taking a break or having a beverage is wise. Standing in front of paper scratching your head takes a toll on your bow-fu. Unless you have a bad clearance issue, I would move on and see how your bow groups and just enjoy shooting it for a bit. Then maybe see if you can get bareshafts to group with fletched at 20-25 yards. After successfully completing that you can then revisit the paper with a greater measure of confidence. The tear may be gone by then or if it is there, you can probably laugh at it and discount it... 
I love this kinda stuff myself... 
have fun
rich


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