# Painting Quiver



## IA Monsterbuck (Jul 18, 2006)

If it's a plastic hood the Krylon Fusion paint for plastic works great.


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## whack&stack (Oct 15, 2007)

its easy sand and scuff then use a primer that bonds with plastic then flat black then a matte finish clear coat it will look great have fun


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

whack&stack said:


> its easy sand and scuff then use a primer that bonds with plastic then flat black then a matte finish clear coat it will look great have fun


i think that would be perfect.


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## neo71665 (Jul 26, 2007)

Best is to use good paint. That fusion crap lays on thick and I've never seen it look as good compared to something done with better products.


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## whack&stack (Oct 15, 2007)

here is what it looks like you do it the way i laid out. you can see if you like the way mine turned out. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=917698


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## neo71665 (Jul 26, 2007)

Gray plastic door panels before and after. I've painted a number of plastic parts in my life.
These were taken overboard and smoothed of all grain to look like a painted metal part in factory colors.


You can see the gray under where the cloth panels are gonna go.









What it looks like installed









Wish I woulda took a pic when I got it out of the junkyard, gray and dirty.


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## Jennings (Aug 17, 2005)

I've painted a few quivers. I use Krylon Camoflauge paint wirh Fusion: http://www.krylon.com/products/camouflage_paint_with_fusion_technology/

I usually spray a base coat of light tan and then using leaves or pine needles as templates I place them on the quiver and spray alternating colours on them. I will post a picture later when I'm back at home.


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## EnglishKev (Aug 8, 2009)

I know we are an ocean apart, but I'm sure you have an equivalent over there.
I used a 'bumper and vinyl' black paint.
Designed for use on automotive plastic parts.
Dried to a semi matt finish, looks real good.
Just gave the quiver (Bohning Lynx) a rub over with fine steel wool, degreased, and sprayed away:thumbs_up
Job done.

Kev


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## camoman73 (Jul 7, 2007)

I would use the krylon fusion. It is made for plastics and covers well,i have used it,and i do know a lil about putting a nice finish on such materials.


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## IA Monsterbuck (Jul 18, 2006)

neo71665 said:


> Best is to use good paint. That fusion crap lays on thick and I've never seen it look as good compared to something done with better products.


I guess it only looks as good as the job you do painting it. :zip:

Lots of people have had great results with it.


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## GusGus30125 (Mar 5, 2009)

IA Monsterbuck said:


> I guess it only looks as good as the job you do painting it. :zip:
> 
> Lots of people have had great results with it.


X2...you get what you put in. I used the Fusion paint on my Treelimb and it looks great.


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## quick94stang (Aug 16, 2009)

+1 krylon fusion is B.A.


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## thegreatorator (Jun 16, 2010)

I used the fusion on my quiver. (and my rifle, and my ditty bag, etc) Remember, thin coats, and I like to use the beige as the base coat. If you lightly scuff the plastic with a fine grit paper then clean it off with alcohol, you'll have great results. Remember, GO THIN!

I make my stencils out of the yellow manilla folders. I'm not big on using tree leaves and branches all over it because you're essentially painting the negative space, not the actual piece you're trying to mimic.

Play around on a scrap piece of something first. And if all fails, paint it again!


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## neo71665 (Jul 26, 2007)

IA Monsterbuck said:


> I guess it only looks as good as the job you do painting it. :zip:
> 
> Lots of people have had great results with it.



Guess so but I've never seen it done to the level that "real" paints can go. I tried to use it and tried so hard to like it as it saved me $20 a can for the adhesion promoter I use when I paint plastics. It slops on plastics (even with multiple thin coats) so thick it looks sloppy, never lays flat, and gums up sandpaper (even while wet sanding). 

Lots of people are happy with stuff cause they did it, not cause its correct or even sometimes finished. Just the thought of hey I did this is enough, lol. If it makes you happy go for it. I'm just a type A and fusion paint just looks like shotty work to me. I was raised anything worth doing is worth doing right the first time.

That door panel was done with a rattle can and not up to some people standards. It came out fine for my daily driver. I wanted something that I could touch up without having to get out my spray gun cause I mud ride and everything else in it. When I do the interior of my show truck it will be out of a spray gun and turn out much better than that. In that one you can see a bit of reflection from the shop light above it (2 bulb fixture and thats the 2 lines on the arm rest). On panels I've done with a spray gun you can actually see the fixture in the panel.


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## IA Monsterbuck (Jul 18, 2006)

neo71665 said:


> Guess so but I've never seen it done to the level that "real" paints can go. I tried to use it and tried so hard to like it as it saved me $20 a can for the adhesion promoter I use when I paint plastics. It slops on plastics (even with multiple thin coats) so thick it looks sloppy, never lays flat, and gums up sandpaper (even while wet sanding).
> 
> Lots of people are happy with stuff cause they did it, not cause its correct or even sometimes finished. Just the thought of hey I did this is enough, lol. If it makes you happy go for it. I'm just a type A and fusion paint just looks like shotty work to me. I was raised anything worth doing is worth doing right the first time.
> 
> That door panel was done with a rattle can and not up to some people standards. It came out fine for my daily driver. I wanted something that I could touch up without having to get out my spray gun cause I mud ride and everything else in it. When I do the interior of my show truck it will be out of a spray gun and turn out much better than that. In that one you can see a bit of reflection from the shop light above it (2 bulb fixture and thats the 2 lines on the arm rest). On panels I've done with a spray gun you can actually see the fixture in the panel.


I gotcha, yeah a spray can isn't going to give you the kind of professional coat that I'm sure you can apply but I think most guys are happy with it. Lets face it, it's a quiver. Would I spray paint the body of my truck? No. Well, maybe when it get's a little older. I spray painted some body panels black on my old Explorer that had sun faded bad, painted the wheels white on an old Jeep I had once too. I think for most people's expectations of a quiver hood the Fusion will be more than adequate and the price is cheap.


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## IA Monsterbuck (Jul 18, 2006)

neo71665 said:


> Best is to use good paint. That fusion crap lays on thick and I've never seen it look as good compared to something done with better products.


What would you recommend as a good paint? Are we talking paint you've gotta have a spray gun to apply or is there a spray paint in a can that's superior to others?


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## neo71665 (Jul 26, 2007)

IA Monsterbuck said:


> What would you recommend as a good paint? Are we talking paint you've gotta have a spray gun to apply or is there a spray paint in a can that's superior to others?




I've had pretty good results with rustoleum industrial paints. Dupont also has some pretty good spray bombs.


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## Jennings (Aug 17, 2005)

Here is a pic of one of my painted quivers. Its a old black Cobra quiver that I upgraded with a Bowtech arrow grips. All it cost me was 10 minutes of my time. I already had the spray paint from when I painted my treestands. It looks better in person and the lines are a little more crisp.

Sure its not professional but it works for me and the deer haven't laughed at it yet!


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## big_dog (Mar 10, 2010)

i have a thread showing my new bear strike, i painted the quiver w/ krylon fusion camo ultra flat black you can check it out

here's the link

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1277042


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