# Tuning a Hoyt Carbon Spyder Turbo



## bbloom96 (May 5, 2009)

I need some help. Was trying to follow JAVIs post on cam timing a Cam and 1/2 system on my carbon Spyder Turbo which was way off when it arrived. I bought it used with non factory strings on it.

2014 60lb Carbon Spyder Turbo with #2 Z5 cam and E mod Hoyt specs 60lb peak, ATA 32 1/4", BH 5 1/2"

At start
MAX weight 63lbs
ATA 32 7/8
BH 6
top cam stop hits before bottom

I first maxed out the limb bolts and took 10 twists out of string. Then I tried to add twists to yoke cable to get to 32 1/4 ATA. Even with significant over twisting, I could only get the ATA to 32 5/8. At this point, the Max weight was 62.5 lbs. and the BH was 6 1/2". I then tried to twist the control cable and the string to get the BH, ATA correct and even tiller. The best I could get was ATA of 32 1/2, BH 6, and peak weight of 66 lbs. Not sure what is wrong. Any suggestions?


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

That was written before the parallel limbs and was corrected in another thread several years ago. You do NOT take the 10 twists from the string on the parallel limb bows, other than that the instructions still work. 

At this point I'd suggest that you start from scratch and put the string and both cables at the correct lengths then without taking the 10 twist from the string you will be able to time the cams. 

As for A2A and brace height they are at best a rule of thumb to get you close.. Pay attention to cam rotation, draw weight and draw length and let the rest float...


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## speed1 (Apr 13, 2006)

Not trying to highjack bblooms thread here, but since he is having issues with his hoyt also, I have a question, maybe we can both figure something out, I have both cams timed, but Im getting a VERY consistent 1 inch high paper tear when shooting through paper. The only way I can get a level hole through paper is to have the top draw stop way into the string at draw, this of course leaves the wall at draw terrible, I have a couple at er's trying to help me get this figured out, but so far it hasn't solved this terrible arrow flight, so if anyone else is having this issue and figured out how to correct it let me know. I know SOMETHING is wrong, but dont know what it is and surely dont know how to correct it.


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## elkbow69 (May 7, 2010)

Here is how I have my CST set. center shot is just a hare over 3/4 from RISER, not pad. This is with a QAD HDX rest.
Cam timing is DEAD EVEN! 
arrow is about 1/2 a shaft above the centerline of rest mount bolt
64# ona 70# bow. 27.5" DL
DONT get all hung up on having the bow at EXACT SPEC. Its NOT that important, its only a starting point to tuning.

Heres what you need to do: 
Max the limb bolts
Take the string back to factory spec. Hoyt now has the NEW carbon turbo chart up in the site. The #2 cam did not change from what I noted. 

Then. Take the buss cable and add or remove twists to bet ATA to spec as best as possible. Put say 5 twists in each yoke leg end for a start. 
Set max weight of bow to 60-61lbs.

Now. put bow in draw board and check cam timing. If top hits before bottom, twist up the top.
Tops hits after bottom, un-twist the top to advance that cam.
Time to bow to where the cam stops hit dead even! 
Put your rest at 3/4 center shot from the RISER. Or put arrow rest height at even with center or rest mount bolt, and d loop or nock at dead even /level. 
AND Use the RR track method (two arrow method) to check that they are parallel nock to point. 

Now: lay an arrow along the left side of the top cam and see where or if the arrow shaft crosses the string. Should be right at the d loop or just 1/4" high.
Set cam lean to by using yokes to get it to cross right at d loop or a tad high. 
Now is the time you install your rest cord on your cable if its a tie in style. then time rest correctly. (After all the twisting and stuff is done to the control cable.)

NOW you shoot thru paper and see whats happening. Remember YOUR form can effect paper tear a tremendous amount. Therefore, I now do not paper test much, only to get initial set up really close.

I spend the time doing a bare shaft tune in order to see whats happening with the arrow at distance. what happens at 3 feet, usually is not whats happening at 20 yards.
I bare shaft tune in to a layered block target at 5 first, then 10 and 20 yards. Takes time but or works best for me.

Speed1 raise your rest a tad bot or lower your d loop. 

Now download the PDF of the "Nuts & bolts" guide to tuning in the sticky at the top o the thread that is the general forum.


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## bbloom96 (May 5, 2009)

The problem I am having is to get the ata close to spec with buss cable, the dw goes over 66lbs on a 60lb max bow. The buss is way over twisted and I am only at 32 5/8" ata. I don't get it.


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## Redball409 (Jan 21, 2010)

I am no expert but if draw weight is way too high, wouldn't you untwist the buss cable, to reduce poundage then retime the cams wirh control cable.


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## TRUE HUNT (Nov 8, 2006)

Tag this for info tune


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## Jcaw001 (May 8, 2019)

Coming back to read more


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