# My Helix Broadhead Experience



## maddog20/20 (Oct 13, 2015)

Here's one from 20, 25 and 30yd.

Happy with the flight and penetration. I think they're going to be great this year. I might even try to stick a turkey this weekend...


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

Good report, thanks for the info. I've seen their broadheads and thought they looked pretty nice. They have a similar shape to the Simmons heads which have a very strong following from stickbow hunters.

What are you using to sharpen them and maintain that angle?


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## maddog20/20 (Oct 13, 2015)

I have a variable angle sharpener that I'll use (although I haven't actually looked up the cut angle yet, I'm sure my sharpener will work). These shots were not right out of the box, but close enough to call it that, so I haven't actually tried yet. I shot around 20 shots a couple of weeks ago and just got them out again this afternoon. I DID have to go buy a new target, though because I kept shooting through the other one with them.

Strickland's does sell one specifically for the Helix, but I haven't looked at it yet. I think what may make it tricky for something other than theirs is the fact that even the back side of the broadhead is sharp, so there are a lot of weird angles to sharpen.


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## opie20wv (Dec 29, 2009)

The sharpener they sell works great - and the bevel on the helix is 40 degrees - more than any other single bevel ive seen myself, which adds to its unbievable flight and spiral wound channel - great broadheads from a superb company and people.


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## maddog20/20 (Oct 13, 2015)

opie20wv said:


> The sharpener they sell works great - and the bevel on the helix is 40 degrees - more than any other single bevel ive seen myself, which adds to its unbievable flight and spiral wound channel - great broadheads from a superb company and people.


Thanks for the info. My Worksharp only goes to 30, so I guess I'll be getting theirs. It's on their website for $39.95, so not bad.


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## Gee's (May 2, 2013)

Nice arrows maddog! I've been using the same Easton trads with the gold tip inserts and they have been bomb proof. I don't think I'll ever go back to the hit inserts.


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## Stub (Aug 13, 2013)

Nice write-up and gl on the turkey!


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## maddog20/20 (Oct 13, 2015)

Gee's said:


> Nice arrows maddog! I've been using the same Easton trads with the gold tip inserts and they have been bomb proof. I don't think I'll ever go back to the hit inserts.


Agreed. Those arrows are too pricey to go blowing them out with every stump shot with those HIT inserts. Plus the added weight gives more FOC and they seem to fly better.

I'll never go back either.


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## maddog20/20 (Oct 13, 2015)

Stub said:


> Nice write-up and gl on the turkey!


Thanks. They're a skittish critter and I've never tried to take one with a bow so we'll see how it goes!


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## Maddmartagan (Feb 13, 2015)

maddog20/20 said:


> Agreed. Those arrows are too pricey to go blowing them out with every stump shot with those HIT inserts. Plus the added weight gives more FOC and they seem to fly better.
> 
> I'll never go back either.


What inserts are you using?


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## bjjofco (Apr 4, 2015)

I am using 200 gr Cutthroat broadheads from RMSG

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## Tracker12 (Sep 22, 2003)

Broadhead has to do two things. One is hit where you aim and second give you good terminal performance. Most quality heads will impact where you aim if the arrows are tuned to your bow. And for the most part all the quality heads kill well if we do our part. As much as I would like to say this is the best I'm sure best exists. Those Cutthroats by the way are pretty good. My buddy killed an Aoudad this past DEC with a marginal shot and is tore him up pretty good.


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## maddog20/20 (Oct 13, 2015)

Maddmartagan said:


> What inserts are you using?


The GoldTip Accu Tough insert.

https://www.goldtip.com/componentdetail.aspx?page=inserts&cid=147

Not only does it give a thick metal collar to absorb impact vs just the thin carbon wall of the shaft, it also adds around 40gr to the front end of the arrow adding a little more FOC vs the 9gr(ish) HIT insert.


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## maddog20/20 (Oct 13, 2015)

Tracker12 said:


> Broadhead has to do two things. One is hit where you aim and second give you good terminal performance. Most quality heads will impact where you aim if the arrows are tuned to your bow. And for the most part all the quality heads kill well if we do our part. As much as I would like to say this is the best I'm sure best exists. Those Cutthroats by the way are pretty good. My buddy killed an Aoudad this past DEC with a marginal shot and is tore him up pretty good.


Honestly, that second thing is what always make me gun-shy about two blade broadheads. 3 Blades just seem like it would cut more, but there's also less resistance and it's a straight wound channel vs a spiral like single bevel two bladed heads. 

My main concern from my compound experience was that the broadheads would reliably fly where I wanted them. With a compound, I generally have to do a fair amount of tuning to get them to fly straight and I just wasn't sure what to expect on a trad bow since there's literally nothing to adjust outside of brace height and the slightest amount of tiller. I tried a Muzzy 4 blade and these not only flew a bit straighter, but also gave a fair bit more penetration and it was an actual spiral to the point that I can feel the arrow twist as I'm pulling it out of the target, so I'm pretty happy.

I was going to try the Snuffer, but I don't know that there's anything to gain.


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

maddog20/20 said:


> Honestly, that second thing is what always make me gun-shy about two blade broadheads. 3 Blades just seem like it would cut more, but there's also less resistance and it's a straight wound channel vs a spiral like single bevel two bladed heads.
> 
> My main concern from my compound experience was that the broadheads would reliably fly where I wanted them. With a compound, I generally have to do a fair amount of tuning to get them to fly straight and *I just wasn't sure what to expect on a trad bow since there's literally nothing to adjust outside of brace height and the slightest amount of tiller.* I tried a Muzzy 4 blade and these not only flew a bit straighter, but also gave a fair bit more penetration and it was an actual spiral to the point that I can feel the arrow twist as I'm pulling it out of the target, so I'm pretty happy.
> 
> I was going to try the Snuffer, but I don't know that there's anything to gain.


You need to think of it differently than with your compound. With a compound, tuning is done by adjusting the bow, with a stickbow most of the tuning is done by adjusting the arrow setup (static spine, length, point weight). You can tweak the bow a bit in the ways you mentioned but those are not going to make big differences, think of them as fine tuning and usually done after getting as close as possible by playing the arrow variables.

The key to broadhead selection is solid tuning with field points first. I think tuning with bare shafts is the most efficient way to get there, use this link if you don't already have it...http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html

With bare shaft tuning you can go at it two ways, you can cut your shafts to your preferred length and tune with point weight or you can start with a predetermined point weight and a full length shaft, cutting the shaft back in small increments until you get the bare shafts to fly right. The first method is easier since you can buy screw in points up to 300 grains, but then you never quite know what broadhead weight you will need, and that might eliminate a favorite you wanted to use. The second method requires easy access to a cutoff saw but you know going in to it what broadhead you will be using. If you are using aluminum shafts all you need is an inexpensive tuning cutter. Either method works.

I define a good bare shaft tune as two or three bare shafts and two or three fletched arrows, shot at the same spot, grouping together from at least 20 yards (25-30 yards is even better). Once you get here, if you used the tune by swapping point method, you buy broadheads in the same weight as the field points that tuned the best. I have never had broadheads _not_ group with field points after bare shaft tuning like this.

As far as two or three blade heads, in my opinion with a 50# bow you can shoot whatever you want, at least for deer sized game. That's assuming a well tune bow/arrow system, nothing hinders penetration more than an arrow not flying true. As far as the effectiveness of two vs. three blade heads, good arguments can be made for both. All I've ever used is three blade heads whether it's a compound or a recurve, but since I have recently gone down in draw weight I'm looking at them as an option for this coming fall.


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## maddog20/20 (Oct 13, 2015)

Easykeeper said:


> You need to think of it differently than with your compound. With a stickbow most of the tuning is done with the arrow. You can tweak the bow a bit in the ways you mentioned but those are not going to make big differences, think of them as fine tuning.
> 
> The key to broadhead selection is solid tuning with field points first. I think tuning with bare shafts is the most efficient way to get there, use this link if you don't already have it...http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html
> 
> ...


I spent a lot of time bare shaft tuning my arrows, so I agree with you. My point was that I was worried about the wrong stuff.


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

Sorry, I misunderstood.


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