# Mathews HALON 6 arrived for a review >>-------->



## athomPT

sweet


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## bcycle

Tagged


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## Mathias

Subd


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## Xmxer

I like the look, very cool looking.


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## Out

Awesome


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## SFCSNOW

I hunt and hunting applications are all that matters to me. The little DXT was my last Mathews. It was a sweet stand hunting bow. Since, I've enjoyed a New Breed Genetics, Hoyt CRX32 and A Spyder30. Sooooo, I like smooth and QUIET. 
The H6 is saying yes to me already. Interested in the draw cycle, how it holds and how quiet it is with 450ish grain arrows.


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## MELLY-MEL

Told ya bro, its a bad mama jamma! Lol


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## little buddy

Great looking bow. Maybe those large cams make it seem like a 32" ata bow. Still wish it was longer though.


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## Adamsdjr

What is the overall length of the bow from top of the top cam to the bottom of the lower cam?


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## 138104

How long is the riser?


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## Bradster1

I like that it came out in the 30" ata. I love short bows. My only concern is that it comes in around 4.5lbs. Thats a full pound heavier than my Helim. Does it feel like a beast in your hand or is the extra weight hardly noticeable?


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## Khunter

I'm curious to hear how it tunes?


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## Horns and Hides

Dont think I've EVER seen you with a Mathews in your hand since Ive been here, is everything ok?


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## Larry brown

I'm shooting a 585 grain arrow, can you speed test it with a similar weight arrow? I wanna see real world speeds. I have found my Chill R is extremely proficient the heavier I go.


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## ontarget7

Horns and Hides said:


> Dont think I've EVER seen you with a Mathews in your hand since Ive been here, is everything ok?


You haven't been here long enough [emoji6]
Have owned quite a few Mathews. Even got some long range videos with the Helim [emoji6]


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## jmack73

After we got our 2 preview Mathews bows (Halon and HTX) set them up and shot them I couldn't help myself and ordered a Halon. It is a very nice mixture of a Chill X and a Wake....


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## rs0802

Looking forward to it.


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## crazyhoyt

Looks like a nice rig, I can't wait to shoot one. Also noticed a killer Podium in the Background!


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## ontarget7

MELLY-MEL said:


> Told ya bro, its a bad mama jamma! Lol


I would love to see a fixed yoke system in the future. Overall first impression is very nice, you were right [emoji106]🏼

See how specs speeds and performance all play out


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## ontarget7

Adamsdjr said:


> What is the overall length of the bow from top of the top cam to the bottom of the lower cam?


35 1/2"




Perry24 said:


> How long is the riser?


26 1/4"


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## Horns and Hides

ontarget7 said:


> You haven't been here long enough [emoji6]
> Have owned quite a few Mathews. Even got some long range videos with the Helim [emoji6]


Figured as much, I jumped on when I was on the Hoyt train and learned ALOT from your threads..I've had several Mathews during their solocam days and liked them besides the grip, this is the first year in a while where I'm taking a second look..Look forward to your thoughts


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## ontarget7

crazyhoyt said:


> Looks like a nice rig, I can't wait to shoot one. Also noticed a killer Podium in the Background!


The Podium is driving tacks and I training for Vegas [emoji6]


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## SonnyThomas

Perhaps just the pictures or cams, but looks like incredibly short limbs and wide limbs to boot. Need something to give of cam size, not your big paw Shane  Structural build of upper and lower riser seems rigid enough.


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## 573mms

I'm curious to see with mathews long horrible but well diserved reputation of coming in below ibo what kinda speed you get out of it.


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## ontarget7

Horns and Hides said:


> Figured as much, I jumped on when I was on the Hoyt train and learned ALOT from your threads..I've had several Mathews during their solocam days and liked them besides the grip, this is the first year in a while where I'm taking a second look..Look forward to your thoughts


I will admit, Mathews has not had my attention lately but this one has potential. I look forward to the breakdown of this one and the fine tuning. 

I am really curious on how consistent cam synch will stay to maintain clean vertical nock travel from bow to bow. Have seen issues with this in the past. 

Will definitely give feedback on that in all the breakdown


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## ontarget7

SonnyThomas said:


> Perhaps just the pictures or cams, but looks like incredibly short limbs and wide limbs to boot. Need something to give of cam size, not your big paw Shane  Structural build of upper and lower riser seems rigid enough.


Here you go Sonny

Turbo cam vs the CC cam


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## muleydude

I'm thinking the string angle would be about the same as my Nitrum 34? Overall length is 36.5" w/o preloaded limbs.


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## ontarget7

Couple accessories


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## Otdrsman85

I really wanted a longer bow purely for the string angle at 29 inch draw but I'm still really eager to try this Halon


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## HoosierArcher88

Tagged for the meat and potatoes


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## HoosierArcher88

Oh, and interested in your take on the bow too ontarget


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## 573mms

Are you in anyway sponsored by mathews or the show your review is going to be on sponsered by them?


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## chaded

Can't figure out if I want the bow or not. &#55358;&#56596; Looks great so I will be tuned in.


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## ontarget7

573mms said:


> Are you in anyway sponsored by mathews or the show your review is going to be on sponsered by them?


No, I am not sponsored by Mathews or anybody else for that matter. The TV show and Magazine is sponsored by Mathews but that will not stop me from having a fair and unbiased review. Have been known for that for years and don't see that changing. 

The truth will always reveal its self sooner or later. You will always get fair and straight forward stuff from me.


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## ontarget7

573mms said:


> I'm curious to see with mathews long horrible but well diserved reputation of coming in below ibo what kinda speed you get out of it.


Will have some speed numbers for you


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## G-unit

If you've shot the wake I'd like to know how they compare. Been kicking around one of these since I saw the leak. Love my wake but she's a bear to hike in Colorado!


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## seiowabow

Did you measure the DL yet? I ordered today expecting it to be 1/2" long.


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## ontarget7

seiowabow said:


> Did you measure the DL yet? I ordered today expecting it to be 1/2" long.


1/4" long


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## acs2653

Tuned in.


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## ontarget7

G-unit said:


> If you've shot the wake I'd like to know how they compare. Been kicking around one of these since I saw the leak. Love my wake but she's a bear to hike in Colorado!


Would be much better in the backcountry IMO


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## seiowabow

ontarget7 said:


> 1/4" long


Thank you


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## IowaBowhunter1986

Looking forward to your review


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## USMCKoontz

jmack73 said:


> After we got our 2 preview Mathews bows (Halon and HTX) set them up and shot them I couldn't help myself and ordered a Halon. It is a very nice mixture of a Chill X and a Wake....


If this is true, then the Halon will be the bow I trade my Nitrum Turbo in for


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## Tipsntails7

ontarget7 said:


> Here you go Sonny
> 
> Turbo cam vs the CC cam


Holy **** those cams are huge! Really good looking bow though. The weight wouldn't bother me, but I prefer longer ata bows. But with those cams might not even make a difference.


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## wilkeysean

Really wish the would put that cam on a 34 ata bow.


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## ChadWhit

tagged... :darkbeer:


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## frankie_rizzo

Can't wait for your review on this bow.


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## Bryan Thacker

Only a Halon review I'll even take interest in is from Shane!!!

Always Fair & honest reviews & exceptional tuning knowledge!


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## jmack73

I couldn't find anything wrong with the Halon 6 and I'm going to shoot it side by side with my Defiant 30 on Thursday to see how they compare.


USMCKoontz said:


> If this is true, then the Halon will be the bow I trade my Nitrum Turbo in for


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## Billincamo

Adamsdjr said:


> What is the overall length of the bow from top of the top cam to the bottom of the lower cam?


At full draw it measured 33" with a silky smooth draw cycle.


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## MR 28

Subscribed


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## JDUB007

I too am curious about how that 4.6lbs feels in hand...some bows at 4lbs feel heavy and some at 4+ seem light...how's this thing feel set up?


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## btvabowhunter

tagged


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## troyinpa

tagged


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## swbuckmaster

ontarget7 said:


> 1/4" long


What kind of a draw board is that?


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## bighunterguy

Man those cams ARE HUGE! Definitely want to here your review


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## ontarget7

swbuckmaster said:


> What kind of a draw board is that?


Bought that probably 8-9 years ago when Elite was selling them.


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## seiowabow

We are all foaming at the mouth for some speed numbers! Lol.


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## jaredjms

JDUB007 said:


> I too am curious about how that 4.6lbs feels in hand...some bows at 4lbs feel heavy and some at 4+ seem light...how's this thing feel set up?


I didn't shoot it yet but my first impression was, god this thing feels heavy. Don't get me wrong, I like a heavy bow but I like to put the weight where I want it. I think Mathews could have done a much better job with the weight and balance of this bow. I liked the new Camo, and the draw cycle felt nice


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## ontarget7

Some are asking about the overall weight of the bow. First Impression was just an average feel, not to heavy but definitely not light. The overall balance is kinda awkward due to the grip being exceptionally low in the overall riser design. 

Holding it from a shooting standpoint it sits pretty well with some slight top heaviness tipping forward. 

From a carrying standpoint, holding it from the grip and to your side, the top will definitely want to fall towards the ground. 

I can see from the technical side of things why it's designed like this and will elaborate more on this as I dive into it.


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## Seadonist

*Mathews HALON 6 arrived for a review &gt;&gt;--------&gt;*

Can you comment on how the Halon compares to the HTR in accuracy, consistency and forgiveness? If it's as good as the HTR in these categories, I may have to drop some $$ on one.


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## svernatter

Subb'd. Don't make me trade my CST ZT in for a Halon Shane!


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## Out

That halon 5 looks awesome


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## TundraArcher

[quote name="Adamsdjr" post=1081611946]What is the overall length of the bow from top of the top cam to the bottom of the lower cam?[/QUOTE]


Billincamo said:


> At full draw it measured 33" with a silky smooth draw cycle.


At some point maybe the manufacturers will release string angle as well as ATA. With hoyts cams providing better string angle this year, and mathews having large cams that provide a better angle too, these bows aren't the same at 30 inches as they used to be. Also, even 30 inch bows now have exceptionally long risers, which is obviously adding to the overall weight...


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## FlyfishPA

It's been a while since I shot a Mathews, but this looks nice.

Curious about the seam on the arrow shelf. Is this a two piece riser that is then joined? Not familiar with that, as all of my previous bows were one piece.


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## swbuckmaster

I think with larger cams comes exaggerated cam lean issues. I would like to see photos of the bows cams at rest and on draw board showing lean or no lean.


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## ontarget7

Just a safety precaution for the guys that have drawboards. Make sure if you do it with out a d loop you start pulling well below center, due to the geometry of the bow. It will want to slide up right away if you don't and you might find the scale slamming into the bottom of the top cam. 
Just something I always pay close attention to when operating a drawboard, since I don't put a d loop on initially when checking things out.


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## swbuckmaster

Why check without a loop first?


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## ontarget7

swbuckmaster said:


> Why check without a loop first?


I don't like creating any premature serving separation and I like to see at different points at full draw how cam synch is effected in relationship to d loop positioning. If I was to do this with a d loop on it, it would take way longer and serving separation would be a very likely scenario that I can do with out. Since I would have to tie and re tie d loop to create the same effect of me just sliding my scale in different positions at full draw


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## cschwanz

looking forward to an in depth review!


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## string music

Looking forward to your review Shane.


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## 116Buck

Subscribe


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## goodoleboy11

swbuckmaster said:


> I think with larger cams comes exaggerated cam lean issues. I would like to see photos of the bows cams at rest and on draw board showing lean or no lean.


Nope, the limbs on the halon are so short and so thick that I highly doubt it would be a problem at all.


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## JRHOADES20

It does look like 2 piece riser by the arrow shelf pic is it?


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## ontarget7

Not seeing a 2 piece riser guys


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## kydecoy

subbing for the review.


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## ohio.bow.addict

JRHOADES20 said:


> It does look like 2 piece riser by the arrow shelf pic is it?


It is a solid one piece riser. Thats just the way the grip is formed around the riser. Same way on all Mathews bows.


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## doecollector

Subscribed


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## Khunter

goodoleboy11 said:


> Nope, the limbs on the halon are so short and so thick that I highly doubt it would be a problem at all.


That's a good point, those thick limbs with the wide stance probably really fight cam lean. I was thinking the same thing about it having some lean with those huge cams but now that you say that, it makes sense that they might not.


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## GOBLE4ME

Khunter said:


> That's a good point, those thick limbs with the wide stance probably really fight cam lean. I was thinking the same thing about it having some lean with those huge cams but now that you say that, it makes sense that they might not.


I checked a Halon 6 at the Shop yesterday & there was no cam lean, it was perfect.


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## ontarget7

*Mathews HALON 6 arrived for a review &gt;&gt;--------&gt;*

I will get into it more but cam lean is managed well on this design. Now guys that feel a cam needs to be plumb or parallel with aim string at full draw you are limited with a floating yoke.

Myself, I don't hold to that and feel it is a complete misconception.


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## acso14

waiting on particulars


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## goodoleboy11

Khunter said:


> That's a good point, those thick limbs with the wide stance probably really fight cam lean. I was thinking the same thing about it having some lean with those huge cams but now that you say that, it makes sense that they might not.


For sure. If they were the same limbs as say the chill line I would definitely be concerned about cam lean but I wouldn't worry about it at all with these unless a limb is out of tolerance. These are the shortest and widest limbs I've seen on any bow I think it's a great design. 

I just wish they would freaking get off the dang 30 ATA is the only ATA band wagon. I can't believe both the new bows are 30. They've only released 30 inch bows and even shorter with the exception of the wake, chill x/r, and no cam in their hunting line for several years. They all did great with the no cam topping it all, this bow really looks great and they indeed ended up making a shorter wake with different brace heights which is great but I'm hoping that they made a bow like the wake with this new riser at a 7 inch brace height. I'm still eager to shoot the halon and might get it if nothing interests me past ATA show. The defiant 34 looks nice as well I have yet to shoot that


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## duckaholic

Was getting 297 with a 390gr arrow at 28/70. Just slapped it togetger though. Going to tune it today and see.


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## bigrobc

In for later


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## ontarget7

duckaholic said:


> Was getting 297 with a 390gr arrow at 28/70. Just slapped it togetger though. Going to tune it today and see.


That would put it at around a 337-338 IBO equivalent calculation


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## rattlinman

ontarget7 said:


> Here is some pics to tide you over. I will give a brief run down over the next few days. All the meat & potatoes from start to finish, including bareshafts and fine tuning will have to come later. This one will probably be a tech segment on a show and links on a website, I will keep you posted with that info when I get the go ahead.
> 
> First impression is cams are huge LOL !
> Overall look of the bow IMO is really good, balance and feel in the hand, excellent. The grip feels exceptionally well to me and took to it right away. Smooth draw cycle and solid backwall. Should be a very good stable platform with the long riser, even if ATA is only 30".
> 
> Please feel free to ask if you have any questions. I will try and cover it in the video segments.


In for the review. Good looking bow and top quality as always from Mathews. 

You mention video segments and website reviews....can you offer me link on here or in a pm? I kinda dig your style and would like to see more. Might even send you a Podium X to tune.....

Thanks!


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## DickRickel

tagged


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## Mallardbreath

Curious on smoothness of draw, valley, and back wall.


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## Cole Henry

duckaholic said:


> Was getting 297 with a 390gr arrow at 28/70. Just slapped it togetger though. Going to tune it today and see.


Is that with a Halon 6 or 7?


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## MaddSkillz

Oh Snap!!!


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## ontarget7

rattlinman said:


> In for the review. Good looking bow and top quality as always from Mathews.
> 
> You mention video segments and website reviews....can you offer me link on here or in a pm? I kinda dig your style and would like to see more. Might even send you a Podium X to tune.....
> 
> Thanks!


I will post up the link for their website and info on the Televised episodes as well, not sure if it's on the Outdoor or Sportsmans channel but will get all the particulars. 

Just keep me posted when your ready 🏼


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## tylerbenelli

tuning issues and speed are my main worry. all that said I think this bow is a step in the right direction for mathews!


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## Pin Wheel

Shane by me having a 30" draw the way the limbs are shortened and the bigger cams is that going to make string angle not as sharp and more pleasurable to shoot being only a 30" axle to axle bow or am I still going to fight with a sharp string angle


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## ontarget7

Pin Wheel said:


> Shane by me having a 30" draw the way the limbs are shortened and the bigger cams is that going to make string angle not as sharp and more pleasurable to shoot being only a 30" axle to axle bow or am I still going to fight with a sharp string angle


Keep you posted on my thoughts on that. Will start putting some stuff together tonight


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## muleydude

ontarget7 said:


> That would put it at around a 337-338 IBO equivalent calculation


That makes sense. Isn't the IBO 340 for the Halon 6 at 30". Specs say up to 345fps, but I assume that's at the 30.5" DL.


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## seiowabow

muleydude said:


> That makes sense. Isn't the IBO 340 for the Halon 6 at 30". Specs say up to 345fps, but I assume that's at the 30.5" DL.


That's at 65% let off I believe. 70/30


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## duckaholic

After tuning the bow I got 318fps with a 355gr arrow at 28/70, 312fps with a 370gr arrow 28/70, and 303 fps with a 395gr arrow from the halon 6 with 85% mods.


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## makemine10mm

duckaholic said:


> After tuning the bow I got 318fps with a 355gr arrow at 28/70, 312fps with a 370gr arrow 28/70, and 303 fps with a 395gr arrow from the halon 6 with 85% mods.


If those numbers are accurate I'll be beyond pleased. That's a pretty quick bow.


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## skinner2

Like the looks of this bow.


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## Larry brown

I wanna see some heavy weight hunting arrows. 500 up.


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## RobinHoodzalot

Following


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## bowhuntermitch

duckaholic said:


> After tuning the bow I got 318fps with a 355gr arrow at 28/70, 312fps with a 370gr arrow 28/70, and 303 fps with a 395gr arrow from the halon 6 with 85% mods.


338-339IBO. Add a loop and peep you're hitting IBO. Impressive.


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## Pin Wheel

ontarget7 said:


> Keep you posted on my thoughts on that. Will start putting some stuff together tonight


Thanks Shane let me know when you find out something


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## duckaholic

29/70 with loop and peep two monkey tails and a 355gr arrow. 395gr at 29/70 was 312 on my chrono.


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## ditchpicklem7

Sub'd


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## MathewsSB

duckaholic said:


> 29/70 with loop and peep two monkey tails and a 355gr arrow. 395gr at 29/70 was 312 on my chrono.


Is this with a Halon 6 or a Halon 5?


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## skeet16

In for info!


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## njorg

duckaholic said:


> 29/70 with loop and peep two monkey tails and a 355gr arrow. 395gr at 29/70 was 312 on my chrono.


Was this shot with the 85% mods or 75%


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## duckaholic

6" with 85s


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## Toxo-Philite

*The Halon 6 in 500 Words or Less!*

I shot the Mathews Halon 6 today. I was at my favorite bow shop, Performance Archery in San Diego, this morning as soon as they opened and lo and behold the No Cam HTX and the Halon 6 in Lost Camo XD! The guys there had the Halon prepared for my draw length and weight (27”/70#) in no time and I got to shoot at both 10 yds., 20 yds. and through the chronograph too. Here is what I would like to share:
The Halon 6 is shorter and bulkier compared to the No Cam I have been shooting for the last 10 months, beefy, is what everyone called it at the shop. It is heavier than the No Cam, it is a LOT harder to pull at 70# versus the NO Cam, the No Cam is easy drawing and gradually builds up poundage, the Halon starts heavy and then gets in to a runway where it is easier to pull back. It shoots quiet, not as whisper quiet as I have come to expect (from shooting the No Cam), but it is quiet, one would have to do a side by side sound test to get scientific results as to which bow is the more quiet one, but it is not loud by any standards. It is shock-less, very much like the No Cam. The arrow shoots flat and hits hard, penetrating well over 50% of the shaft. When it hits the bail, the impact is very loud. At 10 yds. I was shooting a little high, near the top edge of the gold, which was due to the bow and the sight not being fine-tuned for me personally. At 20yds. I used the second pin and I shot in to the blue! I figured the speed is so high that there is not that much difference between the 10 and the 20 yards. So I shot with the 10 yds. Pin and I was correct it still shot like it was shooting at 10 yds., no drop off at all! Next I got to shoot one of my own arrows VAP 400 cut at 27” weighing 364grns, through the chronograph, and the result was 303fps! Very impressive, I can at most get 275 fps with the same arrow, same draw length and same poundage with my NO Cam.
In conclusion, I am impressed with the Halon 6, I may want to try both 7 and 5 before placing an order, but I know what color I want it in: Snow Camo, AKA: Lost Camo OT.


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## ontarget7

Initial set up 

I will explain why and how I come to my final conclusions through this process in the Video review. 

For starts here a couple pics as I just I am putting things together


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## ontarget7




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## Bradster1

Shot the bow today. I was sadly disappointed. Bow draws smooth and shoots good but too heavy and bulky for my liking. I will be passing on this one.


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## ontarget7




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## ontarget7

Cam spacers to accommodate the wider limb stance


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## duckaholic

Guess you didn't have a switchback. ... or reezen......


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## ontarget7

duckaholic said:


> Guess you didn't have a switchback. ... or reezen......


Yes, had 2 of both


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## ontarget7

Liking the fact I have a right tear and bareshaft left at 3/4" centershot


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## Bryan Thacker

duckaholic said:


> Guess you didn't have a switchback. ... or reezen......


You must not know Shane...LOL.I hope your not implying that the Reezen was a great bow are you??? The Reezen was my least favorite Mathews ever...The Switchback XT was by far my favorite though.

I had my Reezen 6 for 2 months & went through about 7 sets of string dampers...Before you ask,yes it was in tune! By Crackers no less...I sold it shortly after.Not to mention I was getting horrid serving seperation on my cables down by the cam...I'm guessing I just got a dud.


I also wish that this bow was a 33-34" A2A bow...I'd be VERY interested in it then!


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## deerdarts

Bradster1 said:


> Shot the bow today. I was sadly disappointed. Bow draws smooth and shoots good but too heavy and bulky for my liking. I will be passing on this one.


I didn't shoot it but did handle it today, u too was disappointed. Seemed bulky, limb pockets are fugly. I will shoot it soon enough but my initial thought was I didn't care for it. For me the defiant was a much sleeker design.


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## ontarget7

Finally perfect bareshaft with fletched but at the price of a 1" centershot, that's No Bueno. 

Time to start some shim swapping [emoji16]


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## Sacriverman

Tagged


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## ontarget7

Not looking good guys, this one is going to need some work.


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## 573mms

That don't look so good!


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## jmack73

Dang. I was hoping this one would be a winner. Maybe all of them aint like that......


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## Joe2698

That first pic with the string no where near centered on the grip. No thanks I'll keep yokes you can twist, the more the better.


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## ontarget7

Ok

After a lot of tweaking with centershot and swapping those sleeves that also act as spacers I get perfect results with a centershot sitting right in between 11/16 and 3/4". That is running pretty true to in line with a 12" stab and a little off of parallel with side of riser. 










This might look good, but I have now another concern. Man, I hate when things work out like this but feel obligated to bring them to attention [emoji16]. 

I will follow up with a pic of my other concern since swapping sleeves and getting centershot more in line with the bow.


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## ctsmith

Appreciate the straight up details Shane. Thats the last Matthews you'll get to test


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## jmack73

Maybe it was a snafu during assembly. I hope its an isolated incident.


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## ontarget7

Think I got it ironed out and will update you here shortly.


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## USMCKoontz

Man I hope all of them aint like some of the issues you have found.. I am looking forward to trying the Halon 6 out myself 

Also would know where I would be able to find your video review when it is up


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## ontarget7

Now keep in mind, I'm pretty picky so I am walking you through all the things I go through to get perfect bareshaft flight while maintaining a balance in the tuning settings. 

The other issue that arises when swapping sleeves is the cable stop and where it hits in this pic. 
It's on the very outer edge and barely touching the edge of the felt. 










So sleeve swapping is not recommended. However, I think I have still resolved the issue and have gone back to factory position for the sleeves. 

These are the results after switching back, along with centershot right in the middle of 13/16 and 7/8, as well as grip alignment change which can be common with Mathews.


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## ericbhall1984

These issues are why many of us prefer the single cam bows from mathews. I know they are not perfect either, but the can be tuned much easier. It seems that unless you work at a shop or have extensive experience servicing bows these 2 cam mathews can be very frustrating. That is if you are like me and want your equipment tuned so that bareshafts, broadheads, and field points, will have same poi.


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## ericbhall1984

I'm interested to see all of what ontarget does with this bow, and his opinion on it when all is said and done. I shot the bow yesterday and it was a really nice shooting / feeling bow. The big question is, how hard are they to tune, I doubt that the majority of the 2 cam mathews bows out there are even properly tuned.


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## ericbhall1984

Great review here ontarget! These honest reviews by someone who knows how to tune are awesome!


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## ericbhall1984

ontarget7 said:


> Now keep in mind, I'm pretty picky so I am walking you through all the things I go through to get perfect bareshaft flight while maintaining a balance in the tuning settings.
> 
> The other issue that arises when swapping sleeves is the cable stop and where it hits in this pic.
> It's on the very outer edge and barely touching the edge of the felt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So sleeve swapping is not recommended. However, I think I have still resolved the issue and have gone back to factory position for the sleeves.
> 
> These are the results after switching back, along with centershot right in the middle of 13/16 and 7/8, as well as grip alignment change which can be common with Mathews.


Is the grip your using to achieve these results comfortable and repeatable? Slight adjustment for you, or ??


----------



## KurtVL

wilkeysean said:


> Really wish the would put that cam on a 34 ata bow.


It's called wake


----------



## Diamond14

Man I do like the looks. I'd be interested in the 5 myself. At say 55# with a 375 grain arrows I'd be in the range I'd like to hunt with. At 28.5 " that is. What kind of speed should I get out of a 5 at 55# 28.5" draw and 375 grain arrow?


----------



## BtwchInvasion

First Mathews bow in a few years that I'm actually excited for


----------



## ontarget7

*Mathews HALON 6 arrived for a review &gt;&gt;--------&gt;*

Here are the specs so far
Better speeds than I expected 🏼

Mathews HALON 6
29 1/8"/ 70.5#
429 gr arrow
302 fps


----------



## duckaholic

ontarget7 said:


> Yes, had 2 of both


Was referring to bradster saying it's heavy


----------



## duckaholic

Bryan Thacker said:


> You must not know Shane...LOL.I hope your not implying that the Reezen was a great bow are you??? The Reezen was my least favorite Mathews ever...The Switchback XT was by far my favorite though.
> 
> I had my Reezen 6 for 2 months & went through about 7 sets of string dampers...Before you ask,yes it was in tune! By Crackers no less...I sold it shortly after.Not to mention I was getting horrid serving seperation on my cables down by the cam...I'm guessing I just got a dud.
> 
> 
> I also wish that this bow was a 33-34" A2A bow...I'd be VERY interested in it then!


Reezen is by far one of the worst bows made. Ever


----------



## OR Archer1

So did you put the larger top hat spacer on the shelf side top and bottom?


----------



## SpotnstalkR

How heavy is this bare bow?


----------



## ontarget7

OR Archer1 said:


> So did you put the larger top hat spacer on the shelf side top and bottom?


Currently both large ones are on the right / shelf side. Next move will be swapping the top ones to have smaller spacer on the right / shelf side. This should bring centershot in some and hoping it still puts the top cable stop landing within reason. More than likely off center but manageable.


----------



## fuzzygrub

Tagged


----------



## bowstretch

Have u shot the bear escape. If so can u compare the two?


----------



## bownazi

Are you swapping the top hat bushings that came in the bow or do you have a bushing kit ?


----------



## ericbhall1984

ericbhall1984 said:


> These issues are why many of us prefer the single cam bows from mathews. I know they are not perfect either, but the can be tuned much easier. It seems that unless you work at a shop or have extensive experience servicing bows these 2 cam mathews can be very frustrating. That is if you are like me and want your equipment tuned so that bareshafts, broadheads, and field points, will have same poi.


My slightly negative opinion on these two cam Mathews bows really has nothing to do with it having two cams. It's the floating yoke cable system that I'm not sold on. If they had adjustable yoke legs I would be all over them. Just two clear that up. This is why I like the solo cams and hybrid systems.


----------



## ontarget7

bownazi said:


> Are you swapping the top hat bushings that came in the bow or do you have a bushing kit ?


Just swapping, I do not have different sizes of their top hat / sleeve bushing. Not even sure they produce a wide range of different sizes.


----------



## bownazi

ontarget7 said:


> Just swapping, I do not have different sizes of their top hat / sleeve bushing. Not even sure they produce a wide range of different sizes.


Yes there are 3 different kits...you have to keep a total of 0.175 between the limbs

.100-.075
.135-.040
.120-.055

If you came up with 27/32 CS with the factory set...lean sounds good as long as T&B are mirrored


----------



## mongopino915

I like tinkering to the T and will play to make the bow shoot perfect bare shaft/field point/BH to the same POI and in plane to my natural grip. I have come to the conclusion that these bow without yoke tuning capability can be challenging if you have to shim, swap limbs/limb sequence, and others. Yes, when it is tuned, it will stay tuned for good but if you get one that is out of whack, start playing. Sometimes, it is nice to just twist the yoke cable to achieve the same affect. 

But on a different note, most average bow hunters could not tell the difference between a finely tuned bow vs one that fish tail to the target so it may not matter that much. 

Shane, nice pics and discussions of the findings.


----------



## mongopino915

ericbhall1984 said:


> My slightly negative opinion on these two cam Mathews bows really has nothing to do with it having two cams. It's the floating yoke cable system that I'm not sold on. If they had adjustable yoke legs I would be all over them. Just two clear that up. This is why I like the solo cams and hybrid systems.


Know the feeling. Still have a couple of yokeless bows that shoot perfect BH/FP but to get there is another adventure in bow tear down and tuning. 

It is the single bad apple in the basket that also made me skeptical; hence, kind of gave up on these yokeless bows.


----------



## Joe2698

Man , bet that takes a minute . Even when you know what's up & got the tools . I was hoping to like this bow , might go slow & steady ! ( HTX ) unless Bowtech makes some limbs for real! They've done right by me , but what ifs suck . quick & easy to tune tho !!


----------



## OR Archer1

ontarget7 said:


> Currently both large ones are on the right / shelf side. Next move will be swapping the top ones to have smaller spacer on the right / shelf side. This should bring centershot in some and hoping it still puts the top cable stop landing within reason. More than likely off center but manageable.


Typically when I run into the tail right issue on Chill R or Chill X I have had to swap the top hat bushings. Putting the thicker top hat on the shelf side normally corrects the issue and they'll tune right down the middle. I would assume that this will be the case on this bow as well.


----------



## INGOZI

Looks like a very nice bow, should be popular with the crowd that wanted a faster HTR like riser bow.


----------



## ontarget7

bownazi said:


> Yes there are 3 different kits...you have to keep a total of 0.175 between the limbs
> 
> .100-.075
> .135-.040
> .120-.055
> 
> If you came up with 27/32 CS with the factory set...lean sounds good as long as T&B are mirrored


Thanks 🏼


----------



## ontarget7

OR Archer1 said:


> Typically when I run into the tail right issue on Chill R or Chill X I have had to swap the top hat bushings. Putting the thicker top hat on the shelf side normally corrects the issue and they'll tune right down the middle. I would assume that this will be the case on this bow as well.


Thicker one is already on the right so we shall see what happens. Generally to correct a tail right / bareshaft left you would move aim string to the right. This would mean smaller top hat spacer on the right


----------



## ontarget7

bownazi said:


> Yes there are 3 different kits...you have to keep a total of 0.175 between the limbs
> 
> .100-.075
> .135-.040
> .120-.055
> 
> If you came up with 27/32 CS with the factory set...lean sounds good as long as T&B are mirrored


You are probably referring to the old limbs ? 
,175 would land right in between 1/8 and 3/16 , there is way more space than that when you combine the new configuration


----------



## BriceJ MI

little buddy said:


> Great looking bow. Maybe those large cams make it seem like a 32" ata bow. Still wish it was longer though.


Me too at least a 33 ata i would be sold


----------



## ontarget7

*Mathews HALON 6 arrived for a review &gt;&gt;--------&gt;*

Decided to squeeze in a little tinkering early this morning before work and my original thoughts when I first had the issue are proofing to be correct. I think we have a winner with top hat / sleeve spacer configuration. 

I was honestly not expecting an issue with the configuration off the bat but figured since I was at a 1" centershot, I might as well use it as a learning experience and walk through possibilities that you might come across. As you can see, you can get perfect bareshaft flight in many scenarios. However, there are other things to consider that could cause issues if you don't know what to look for. Like the pics I posted with perfect bareshafts at 20 yards but the cable hitting the outer edge Allen screw and just about completely missing the felt on the cable stop altogether. 

Having perfect bareshaft flight and the most forgiving flight is finding the powerstroke of the string to align with the centershot of the rest. As you can see it can happen in many different configuration but you find other areas that land outside that healthy balance of a tune. 

The final configuration as it sits right now is small top hat / sleeve spacer on the right on top cam and the bottom cam has the large one on the right. Centershot is sitting at 13/16 and might have to come in a touch after my final tweaking. 
A few other things changed to get cam synch hitting dead nuts the same and will elaborate on that more as I go over everything one more time. 

Here is a couple pics of top hat spacers for top cam, which appears to be the winning combo to make this bow tune to its full potential.


----------



## D90rick

What are the specs or the arrows you are using?


----------



## ontarget7

Mathews Halon 6
29 1/8 / 70.5#

Easton Carbon Injexions
Cut to 28" raw shaft 100 gr tip
Blazers fletched with a AZ EZ Mini
Total weight 429 gr


----------



## bownazi

> Quote Originally Posted by bownazi View Post
> Yes there are 3 different kits...you have to keep a total of 0.175 between the limbs
> 
> .100-.075
> .135-.040
> .120-.055
> 
> If you came up with 27/32 CS with the factory set...lean sounds good as long as T&B are mirrored





ontarget7 said:


> You are probably referring to the old limbs ?
> ,175 would land right in between 1/8 and 3/16 , there is way more space than that when you combine the new configuration


No..There is a total between the 2 top hat bushings (L&R) of 175 to keep the spacing correct between the inside of the limbs and the outside of the cam bearings...anything less or more will pinch or spread the limbs in the pockets...same as the N/C with O/T axles

I posted the usable combinations to get correct cam lean above... My Halon came from the factory with perfect mirrored lean


----------



## seiowabow

Good speeds Shane! I see you ended up only 1/8" over on the DL. Would you suggest ordering the actual DL I need, 28" instead on 27.5" to get a true 28 DL?


----------



## ontarget7

bownazi said:


> No..There is a total between the 2 top hat bushings (L&R) of 175 to keep the spacing correct between the inside of the limbs and the outside of the cam bearings...anything less or more will pinch or spread the limbs in the pockets...same as the N/C with O/T axles
> 
> I posted the usable combinations to get correct cam lean above... My Halon came from the factory with perfect mirrored lean


That is correct on the total .175 [emoji106]🏼

My batteries were dead on my calipers so couldn't confirm

Thanks


----------



## ontarget7

seiowabow said:


> Good speeds Shane! I see you ended up only 1/8" over on the DL. Would you suggest ordering the actual DL I need, 28" instead on 27.5" to get a true 28 DL?


Always easier to gain than to shrink, I would go 27.5

I did do a little twisting to bring it in to 29 1/8"


----------



## bownazi

ontarget7 said:


> That is correct on the total .175 [emoji106]&#55356;&#57340;
> 
> My batteries were dead on my calipers so couldn't confirm
> 
> Thanks


Good to hear.

Note...if you can't get correct lean out of a limb combo...you have to swap limbs L to R and start over with the top hat combos


----------



## ontarget7

bownazi said:


> Good to hear.
> 
> Note...if you can't get correct lean out of a limb combo...you have to swap limbs L to R and start over with the top hat combos


I hate going through all that so let's just hope the top hat spacers do the trick, I'm sure they will. 

Did you end up with small on to the right on top cam ?


----------



## D90rick

What spine are the arrows?


----------



## ontarget7

330


----------



## bownazi

ontarget7 said:


> I hate going through all that so let's just hope the top hat spacers do the trick, I'm sure they will.
> 
> Did you end up with small on to the right on top cam ?


Yes ...that would be normal for the top limb with the roller guard being closer to the top then bottom....if you would get a heavy limb it should be placed on the shelf side..(10 min job)

The whole idea of the top hat bushings is to make up for the side pressure applied by the roller guard to the outside limb...it will change the deflection slightly to equalize and make them perfect again.

Mathews limbs are flo jet then machined and checked for tolerance by robot and have become very accurate in the last 3 yrs...that being said sh## happens...thus 3 bushing kits

Be careful with after market yoke diam....it can jam the floating part of the yoke system and change tune...I lube with Scorpion Venom polymeric and find that with the floating yoke the lean you get at brace holds mirror throughout the stroke


----------



## chaded

I like digging in and working on my own bow but I have to admit this looks like a pain in the neck to me. Lol.


----------



## lunghit

I went through all this with my Chill X and said I will never do it again. I loved shooting that bow but it was a tuning nightmare and I got rid of it. I will only buy bows with yokes from now on.


----------



## ontarget7

In reality guys, my initial take was to swap the top spacers. Figured I would breakdown all the different scenarios while I was at it and explain the effects you might encounter. 

Personally, I think the new bows will probably due to pretty well this year


----------



## pinshooter

The Halon may be the first mathews two cam I can't shoot well but I've yet to take a mathews two cam out of the box....no breaking down or tearing anything apart and shot excellent groups out to 40yd. I admire the work you are doing ontarget!! You obviously know what you are doing!! At the same time I read the comments and people getting tore up over all this and 99.99% of shooters/hunters out there are going to set these bows up and be perfectly happy shooting baseball size groups at 40yd. This is not directed toward you ontarget....this is to the general public...sometimes you don't need to over think things or reinvent the wheel and just shoot your bow  I even had a friend drop off a crossbow that he said "won't shoot". Had zero problems out to 60yd. Sometimes its just not the bow.


----------



## Z06Killer

Cole Henry said:


> Is that with a Halon 6 or 7?


Looks like a 6 to me, each riser is different on the 5,6,7


----------



## Doebuster

they slapped a whisker biscuit on one at the shop I visit ,lined everything up , shot a bullet hole first arrow , and we chronoed it at 30 inches 70 lbs 352 grain arrow 337 fps . It was shooting bullets with a bisquit ! There smoking fast for the smooth draw ! Dead at the shot . There gonna sell a lot of these !


----------



## CHILLX#1

duckaholic said:


> 29/70 with loop and peep two monkey tails and a 355gr arrow. 395gr at 29/70 was 312 on my chrono.





573mms said:


> I'm curious to see with mathews long horrible but well diserved reputation of coming in below ibo what kinda speed you get out of it.


Go eat your hat


----------



## BuckeyeRed

I might have missed it in there somewhere, but did you set it back to factory settings to achieve the desired results?


----------



## Tiggie_00

The Halon weighs 4.6lbs bare bow.. Geesh the Hoyt Carbon Defiant is a whole pound lighter..


----------



## ontarget7

*Mathews HALON 6 arrived for a review &gt;&gt;--------&gt;*

Here are my final results after testing a view different options. 

Factory settings cam in with top hat bushings, large on right side for both top and bottom cam.

I ended up with only changing the top to small top hat spacer on right. This gave me the best centershot location at 13/16. 

Now to get clean vertical nock travel and cams hitting at the same time, I ended up having the arrow running higher in the Berger hole and it is sitting perfectly nock level. 

The 13/16 centershot with the top hat bushing, small to the right on this bow made the arrow running perfectly parallel with the side of the riser. It also put the top cable stop within reason of landing on the felt and not towards the outer edge of the cable stop. 



Grip is very neutral, no real knuckles towards the target or back to you. The new grip is very comfortable and repeatable. It does not like a low wrist grip and more high in the throat where the webbing is between the index finger and thumb. When you go low wrist / heel of the hand it will create a tail high effect and we cause you to have cams not hitting at the same time. 

Bareshafts at 20 yards are on the money and very repeatable with great consistency. 

Here are a few pics




























I am well aware that most won't go through these steps to get optimal results. Personally for me, I can't see not taking these steps. It gives you the most forgiving flight and a fair assessment of what the bow is capable of. Now it's just up to the archer to do their part. 

Hope this gives you a good understanding of some of the ins and outs you might encounter.


----------



## rageinthesage

Tiggie_00 said:


> The Halon weighs 4.6lbs bare bow.. Geesh the Hoyt Carbon Defiant is a whole pound lighter..


Obviously your vajayjay is telling you to go buy a hoyt...


----------



## D90rick

How did you go about determining that you had to go a tad high in the berger hole to keep level knock travel and cam sync?


----------



## ontarget7

D90rick said:


> How did you go about determining that you had to go a tad high in the berger hole to keep level knock travel and cam sync?


Because if I were to drop it back down, it would cause the cams to not hit at the same time to maintain clean vertical nock travel and with this system, it feels best to hit dead nuts the same.


----------



## Buckfevr

Is the rest cord attached to the cable?


----------



## ontarget7

Buckfevr said:


> Is the rest cord attached to the cable?


Yes


----------



## Buckfevr

ontarget7 said:


> Yes


Usually one full twist on the opposite cable will synchronize it offsetting the pull from the rest cable and you could drop it back down.


----------



## ontarget7

*Mathews HALON 6 arrived for a review &gt;&gt;--------&gt;*



Buckfevr said:


> Usually one full twist on the opposite cable will synchronize it offsetting the pull from the rest cable and you could drop it back down.


Sorry, I don't see this to be the case. I can take the cord completely off and my cam synch doesn't change.

Not to mention, one full twist is a huge change and makes me wonder if you have even checked it yourself.


----------



## Buckfevr

ontarget7 said:


> Sorry, I don't see this to be the case. I can take the cord completely off and my cam synch doesn't change.


You would have to check on a draw board.


----------



## TRUE HUNT

Monday at the shop I had the Wake and the Halon side by side. Yes the Wake was more top heavy. I never had time to shot that day but will play around with both of them Saturday. What's your thought on those two Shane. Also Shane waiting on my Hoyt Tiburon to come in so you can time the cams LOL.
Thanks for your time and info.


----------



## ontarget7

Buckfevr said:


> You would have to check on a draw board.


Really ?? LOL

That's all I use, like I said I can slide the cord out and cam synch doesn't change.


----------



## ontarget7

TRUE HUNT said:


> Monday at the shop I had the Wake and the Halon side by side. Yes the Wake was more top heavy. I never had time to shot that day but will play around with both of them Saturday. What's your thought on those two Shane. Also Shane waiting on my Hoyt Tiburon to come in so you can time the cams LOL.
> Thanks for your time and info.


I like the HALON 6 better. Has the potential to be my favorite Mathews offering in a while. 

Really wish the overall balance of the bow was a little better and probably my single biggest complaint.


----------



## ontarget7

Good draw cycle, backwall and speeds are all positive. Just that overall balance of the bow that I don't care for. Even really like the grip, comfortable and repeatable.


----------



## sean1

ontarget7 said:


> Because if I were to drop it back down, it would cause the cams to not hit at the same time to maintain clean vertical nock travel and with this system, it feels best to hit dead nuts the same.


Couldn't you put it where you want in the Berger hole and time the cams from there? Will they not time straight through the center of the Berger hole?


----------



## Buckfevr

ontarget7;1081731466
Not to mention said:


> My observations were based on the Chill X and it would depend on the specific rest but I would be surprised if it didn't throw it off at all.


----------



## TRUE HUNT

I guess you would have to put more weight on back stab than front. I'm gonna play around with them this weekend. Did you play with stab weight yet.


----------



## ontarget7

sean1 said:


> Couldn't you put it where you want in the Berger hole and time the cams from there? Will they not time straight through the center of the Berger hole?


Bow to bow may vary, to early to tell. 

This particular bow is sitting dead level for nock height so if I was to lower the arrow and D loop through center of Berger hole and keep it nock level, it would change cam synch. So to correct a tail high you would have bottom cam starting ahead of the top of raise your rest. Raising your rest is not an option, it would put you nock low. So instead of choosing bottom cam starting first and hitting first at full draw, I opted to go this route. 

Most don't even look at these little things when tuning but IMO it's all about that balance that gets you the best results.


----------



## ontarget7

Buckfevr said:


> My observations were based on the Chill X and it would depend on the specific rest but I would be surprised if it didn't throw it off at all.


I could post a video clip if you would like [emoji2]


----------



## ontarget7

TRUE HUNT said:


> I guess you would have to put more weight on back stab than front. I'm gonna play around with them this weekend. Did you play with stab weight yet.


No, I did not. Will be curious on stab weight distribution myself


----------



## sean1

H


ontarget7 said:


> Bow to bow may vary, to early to tell.
> 
> This particular bow is sitting dead level for nock height so if I was to lower the arrow and D loop through center of Berger hole and keep it nock level, it would change cam synch. So to correct a tail high you would have bottom cam starting ahead of the top of raise your rest. Raising your rest is not an option, it would put you nock low. So instead of choosing bottom cam starting first and hitting first at full draw, I opted to go this route.
> 
> Most don't even look at these little things when tuning but IMO it's all about that balance that gets you the best results.


But couldn't you just retime the cams with the arrow running through the center and then you still have the arrow at 90 degrees and the cams hitting together?


----------



## duckaholic

This cam is VERY SENSITIVE to the slightest twist in the cable either way.


----------



## ontarget7

One thing that is evident with the weight distribution and the grip being so low, you can change cam synch quite easy just from a low wrist to a high wrist grip. It is very noticeable even when you start the draw cycle in a drawboard. The top will want to come back to you in a hurry. More so than any other bow I can remember. If you didn't grip the bow in your hand upon drawing it, I bet that too cam would come back and hit you in the head, it's that noticeable.


----------



## ontarget7

sean1 said:


> H
> But couldn't you just retime the cams with the arrow running through the center and then you still have the arrow at 90 degrees and the cams hitting together?


Sorry, not sure how I can put it any simpler

NO, not with this particular bow

Besides, what is the big deal ?

You have cams hitting dead nuts, nock dead level and centershot perfectly parallel with the inside of riser. 

Pretty much what you want in the tuning process with this particular bow


----------



## ontarget7

duckaholic said:


> This cam is VERY SENSITIVE to the slightest twist in the cable either way.


Yes, indeed


----------



## ontarget7

sean1 said:


> H
> But couldn't you just retime the cams with the arrow running through the center and then you still have the arrow at 90 degrees and the cams hitting together?


The way this bow has its weight distributed for balance you can very cam synch by where you set d loop. 

I choose with this cam system for them to hit at the same time


----------



## sean1

Y


ontarget7 said:


> Sorry, not sure how I can put it any simpler
> 
> NO, not with this particular bow
> 
> Besides, what is the big deal ?
> 
> You have cams hitting dead nuts, nock dead level and centershot perfectly parallel with the inside of riser.
> 
> Pretty much what you want in the tuning process with this particular bow


OK. Thanks
There is no big deal. I wasn't questioning how you had it set up. Was just asking a question and I guess I didn't see the simple answer in your first response. Didn't realize you couldn't move your nock/rest height and readjust cam timing on this particular bow. Haven't even seen one yet


----------



## Khunter

ontarget7 said:


> I like the HALON 6 better. Has the potential to be my favorite Mathews offering in a while.
> 
> Really wish the overall balance of the bow was a little better and probably my single biggest complaint.


I wonder if the Halon 7 would balance better? Maybe it wouldn't want to fall forward as much with the less reflexed riser?


----------



## ontarget7

Khunter said:


> I wonder if the Halon 7 would balance better? Maybe it wouldn't want to fall forward as much with the less reflexed riser?


Not really sure on that, maybe someone else that has played with both could comment


----------



## bownazi

Buckfevr said:


> My observations were based on the Chill X and it would depend on the specific rest but I would be surprised if it didn't throw it off at all.


It doesn't throw sync off at all on any Monster, NC, or Halon...way to much tension on a control cable could change sync with a low lb bow with a cable slide but not a roller guard


----------



## ontarget7

sean1 said:


> Y
> OK. Thanks
> There is no big deal. I wasn't questioning how you had it set up. Was just asking a question and I guess I didn't see the simple answer in your first response. Didn't realize you couldn't move your nock/rest height and readjust cam timing on this particular bow. Haven't even seen one yet


You can move rest or nock height and readjust cam synch but it would not duplicate my current results for setting or down range bareshaft results


----------



## Billincamo

duckaholic said:


> This cam is VERY SENSITIVE to the slightest twist in the cable either way.


Thats a given, almost all cam systems are. A 1/2 twist makes a big difference in any two cam bow.


----------



## FEDIE316

ontarget7 said:


> Sorry, not sure how I can put it any simpler
> 
> NO, not with this particular bow
> 
> Besides, what is the big deal ?
> 
> You have cams hitting dead nuts, nock dead level and centershot perfectly parallel with the inside of riser.
> 
> Pretty much what you want in the tuning process with this particular bow


Wow, settle down chief. Is this a Q & A or just shut up and listen session?
I was wondering the same thing, why the nocking point couldn't be set so the arrow runs through the center of Berger hole and then time the cams so they hit at the same time? I didn't see where you actually answered the guy, or if you did you may have to dumb it down even further for me because I'm not getting it. I'm not saying your reason isn't legit, but can you teach us the why instead of "because I said so"?


----------



## bownazi

Khunter said:


> I wonder if the Halon 7 would balance better? Maybe it wouldn't want to fall forward as much with the less reflexed riser?


Nobody has the H7 yet but less reflex has always = better balance


----------



## ontarget7

FEDIE316 said:


> Wow, settle down chief. Is this a Q & A or just shut up and listen session?
> I was wondering the same thing, why the nocking point couldn't be set so the arrow runs through the center of Berger hole and then time the cams so they hit at the same time? I didn't see where you actually answered the guy, or if you did you may have to dumb it down even further for me because I'm not getting it. I'm not saying your reason isn't legit, but can you teach us the why instead of "because I said so"?


I'm not even upset and feel I have answered all the questions that have been asked, Chief [emoji6]. 

One last time because I honestly don't have time to repeat this over and over again, so if you don't get it, my apologies. 

You can manipulate cam synch by d loop position or how you hold a bow, low wrist, high wrist etc. the objective is to have cams hitting for at the same time and this bow by design is intended to be nock level. If I changed the arrow running through the Berger hole, lowering the d loop and keeping it nock level, I would change the position your pulling from, thus changing cam synch. 
This happens all the time and nothing out of the ordinary. Maybe it is not widely known and the reason for the misunderstanding


----------



## Buckfevr

ontarget7 said:


> Really ?? LOL
> 
> That's all I use, like I said I can slide the cord out and cam synch doesn't change.


I apologize, I didn't mean to be offensive. So this is very interesting. I wonder if by setting it above you're not overwhelming the pull of the rest cord. Which would be interesting. But maybe that's not what's happening.


----------



## Buckfevr

Quote Originally Posted by duckaholic View Post
This cam is VERY SENSITIVE to the slightest twist in the cable either way.



ontarget7 said:


> Yes, indeed


Oh I see that's why you did it that way. Very good info. Thank you.


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## ontarget7

Buckfevr said:


> I apologize, I didn't mean to be offensive. So this is very interesting. I wonder if by setting it above you're not overwhelming the pull of the rest cord. Which would be interesting. But maybe that's not what's happening.


No offense taken 
Could you please elaborate on what your referring to


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## ontarget7

Buckfevr said:


> Quote Originally Posted by duckaholic View Post
> This cam is VERY SENSITIVE to the slightest twist in the cable either way.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh I see that's why you did it that way. Very good info. Thank you.


[emoji106]🏼

Hope that helps, let me know if you have any questions


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## sean1

FEDIE316 said:


> Wow, settle down chief. Is this a Q & A or just shut up and listen session?
> I was wondering the same thing, why the nocking point couldn't be set so the arrow runs through the center of Berger hole and then time the cams so they hit at the same time? I didn't see where you actually answered the guy, or if you did you may have to dumb it down even further for me because I'm not getting it. I'm not saying your reason isn't legit, but can you teach us the why instead of "because I said so"?


Hate to say it Shane but I agree with this 100%. 
Nobody questioned how to manipulate cam synch. I'm aware of how you do that
Nobody questioned how you had the bow set up. Very typical way of setting that up. 

The question was regarding why you were saying you couldn't or shouldn't have the arrow running anywhere but the upper part of the Berger hole. And from your answer it sounded like you were saying you could not re sync the cams on this particular bow after moving the nock and rest locations. It took a few posts before you said that we couldn't get as good of bare shaft results if we moved where the arrow went through the Berger hole.


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## ontarget7

I guess I didn't explain things well enough to understand, my apologies.


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## FEDIE316

sean1 said:


> Hate to say it Shane but I agree with this 100%.
> Nobody questioned how to manipulate cam synch. I'm aware of how you do that
> Nobody questioned how you had the bow set up. Very typical way of setting that up.
> 
> The question was regarding why you were saying you couldn't or shouldn't have the arrow running anywhere but the upper part of the Berger hole. And from your answer it sounded like you were saying you could not re sync the cams on this particular bow after moving the nock and rest locations. It took a few posts before you said that we couldn't get as good of bare shaft results if we moved where the arrow went through the Berger hole.





ontarget7 said:


> I guess I didn't explain things well enough to understand, my apologies.


:thumbs_up I agree, a few posts after I replied I understood what you were trying to get at. No biggie, carry on. Lol


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## ontarget7

ontarget7 said:


> Bow to bow may vary, to early to tell.
> 
> This particular bow is sitting dead level for nock height so if I was to lower the arrow and D loop through center of Berger hole and keep it nock level, it would change cam synch. So to correct a tail high you would have bottom cam starting ahead of the top of raise your rest. Raising your rest is not an option, it would put you nock low. So instead of choosing bottom cam starting first and hitting first at full draw, I opted to go this route.
> 
> Most don't even look at these little things when tuning but IMO it's all about that balance that gets you the best results.


Just curious but did you happen to see my response ^^^^ to the original question ? 

I thought I answered it above but could you let me know what was unclear ? 

Only reason I posted this is to be helpful and if I can improve, I'm all ears.


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## D90rick

Thanks for the work & info sharing Shane! I'm gonna try your method to sync my monster wake. Btw, I noticed how the halon draws if you use a low grip as well b/c it the grip I prefer, it felt like the bow was tipping back & slipping up my hand. Thanks again


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## johnno

ontarget7 said:


> I don't like creating any premature serving separation and I like to see at different points at full draw how cam synch is effected in relationship to d loop positioning.


I too work in a bow shop and ALWAYS use a d-loop + a wrap of loop material around the hook on the winch and the string as an extra safety. And any serving separation - although I have never experienced it with a draw board - is easily and quickly fixed. Personally I would NEVER place a bow on a draw board without the above - as I have seen the results of placing the winch hook directly on the string...cheers...:darkbeer:


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## FEDIE316

ontarget7 said:


> Just curious but did you happen to see my response ^^^^ to the original question ?
> 
> I thought I answered it above but could you let me know what was unclear ?
> 
> Only reason I posted this is to be helpful and if I can improve, I'm all ears.


Ok, I guess you lost me when you went from the cams would unsynch to correcting for a low tear etc and having the bottom cam start and hit first. You're probably right, most people would put the arrow through the berger then twist from there to correct tears instead of trying to find the optimimum position which happens to be higher than typical. Not disagreeing with what you did, just didn't understand the reasoning at first.


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## ontarget7

johnno said:


> I too work in a bow shop and ALWAYS use a d-loop + a wrap of loop material around the hook on the winch and the string as an extra safety. And any serving separation - although I have never experienced it with a draw board - is easily and quickly fixed. Personally I would NEVER place a bow on a draw board without the above - as I have seen the results of placing the winch hook directly on the string...cheers...:darkbeer:


Different strokes for different folks [emoji6]

I have seen many upon many factory string sets get serving separation just from cinching down D Loops. Heck, I have even seen it with certain custom strings. You must be very lucky [emoji106]🏼. 

Although serving separation is easily fixed by reserving, you do have the very likely hood of peep rotation after reserving. This is do to the tension difference that the reserving was applied compared to the overall build tension when the strings were built.


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## ontarget7

FEDIE316 said:


> Ok, I guess you lost me when you went from the cams would unsynch to correcting for a low tear etc and having the bottom cam start and hit first. You're probably right, most people would put the arrow through the berger then twist from there to correct tears instead of trying to find the optimimum position which happens to be higher than typical. Not disagreeing with what you did, just didn't understand the reasoning at first.


It was a high tear, which would cause the cams to be out of synch by correcting with bottom cam hitting first since I was already nock level and not wanting to go nock low for correction. 

It's all good, I will try and be more clear for you [emoji106]🏼


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## ontarget7

D90rick said:


> Thanks for the work & info sharing Shane! I'm gonna try your method to sync my monster wake. Btw, I noticed how the halon draws if you use a low grip as well b/c it the grip I prefer, it felt like the bow was tipping back & slipping up my hand. Thanks again


Your welcome !

Please keep me posted


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## sean1

ontarget7 said:


> I guess I didn't explain things well enough to understand, my apologies.


No problem man. I think just some misunderstanding on both of our parts.


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## dhayse32

Awesome thread, real eye opener to what goes on when someone puts the time in on super tuning a bow. Would venture to guess that 99% of bow shops would not put in half as much effort when setting up bows. Has me strongly considering sending my Impulse off to get "master tuned" when it comes in. Thanks for a great read and a tuning lesson!


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## Southern Fried

I'm a hunter archer. I want the speed just to have a single pin to reach out to 35 yards. But I've been down this "tuning issue" road with a Reezen 6.5, and now a Chill. The easiest bow I've ever tuned is the HTR, Easy! Level nock and 13/16 centershot and BH hit with FP. I'll stick with my slow HTR and any non tuning issue bows. Cheers.


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## ontarget7

dhayse32 said:


> Awesome thread, real eye opener to what goes on when someone puts the time in on super tuning a bow. Would venture to guess that 99% of bow shops would not put in half as much effort when setting up bows. Has me strongly considering sending my Impulse off to get "master tuned" when it comes in. Thanks for a great read and a tuning lesson!


Your welcome ! Hope that shed some light on tuning for you. Glad you enjoyed the read




Southern Fried said:


> I'm a hunter archer. I want the speed just to have a single pin to reach out to 35 yards. But I've been down this "tuning issue" road with a Reezen 6.5, and now a Chill. The easiest bow I've ever tuned is the HTR, Easy! Level nock and 13/16 centershot and BH hit with FP. I'll stick with my slow HTR and any non tuning issue bows. Cheers.


For what it's worth, you can take 10 HTR's and have different results from one to another. Have had to run arrows higher in Berger holes for some of them as well as adding an extra speed nock on top or bottom cam to get clean vertical nock travel. 

I don't look at them as tuning issues per say, since you can still work around them to get perfect results.


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## JoshPSU

Just when I think I want to get a bow press and start doing my own work I read something like this and realize how little I know.


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## Southern Fried

I guess you got the only Halon that requires a super tuner to tune. Hate it for the other 99% of the regular Joe's. I've owned many of the first run bows from them and I think the better bows are manufactured later in the year as they fix the issues.

I appreciate your honest reviews. Thank you.


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## ericbhall1984

Great review here!


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## ontarget7

I have been asked quite a few time about string angle. It does draw more like a 33" ATA bow but I do see one issue you may encounter. The serving travels down a little ways on the aim string coming out of the cam to accommodate for speed nock configuration. You might see an issue with the longer draw guys getting your peep height in your desired location. Just something to consider and check out before you buy.


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## bowtechJDW

ontarget7 said:


> Your welcome ! Hope that shed some light on tuning for you. Glad you enjoyed the read
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For what it's worth, you can take 10 HTR's and have different results from one to another. Have had to run arrows higher in Berger holes for some of them as well as adding an extra speed nock on top or bottom cam to get clean vertical nock travel.
> 
> I don't look at them as tuning issues per say, since you can still work around them to get perfect results.


On target

How do you determine to play with cam sync or add speed nocks??.. I am trying to learn as much as possible about tuning. And honestly wouldn't know when to try what. To get the results I want.


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## Pin Wheel

ontarget7 said:


> I have been asked quite a few time about string angle. It does draw more like a 33" ATA bow but I do see one issue you may encounter. The serving travels down a little ways on the aim string coming out of the cam to accommodate for speed nock configuration. You might see an issue with the longer draw guys getting your peep height in your desired location. Just something to consider and check out before you buy.


Thanks Shane


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## WVBowhunter10

Very good thread and thanks for your time ontarget. I have worked in a shop and worked on my own bows for quite some time and seeing what you have found will cut my time down considerably when I decide if I want to get one of these bad boys for myself.


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## 4IDARCHER

So now that you have got to play with the Halon 6 a bit, how do you compare the stiffness of draw and the valley vs. the defiant turbo? Both have similar speeds and brace heights


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## Nichko

The huge cams look like with the slightest creep it'll rip your arm off. Is it an arm ripper?


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## bownazi

Nichko said:


> The huge cams look like with the slightest creep it'll rip your arm off. Is it an arm ripper?


No the exact opposite ...deep valley and smoother transition on let down


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## Bossmoss

taged


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## bbarnett51

I just shot it, Br33, and Impulse 31. The Halon and Impulse blew the Br33 away. The Halon and Impulse 31 were way different but equally as impressive. 

The Halon 6 never felt like it was going to rip your arm off. It was a great drawing and shooting bow. Very impressed.


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## Nichko

bownazi said:


> No the exact opposite ...deep valley and smoother transition on let down


Thanks.


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## atv69

I looked at this bow today and wow it's getting ordered next week. I'm LH and all they had was RH or I could've shot it. It felt great looked great!


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## Nichko

Price on this one??


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## bucknheat

$1099 in central MO


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## shinobi3

Shane how was the draw length in this bow? Was it right on or a little longer? Thinking about going to mathews this year?


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## ontarget7

shinobi3 said:


> Shane how was the draw length in this bow? Was it right on or a little longer? Thinking about going to mathews this year?


Came in 1/4" long and I tweaked it to 1/8" long , while still maintaining 70.5# peak weight


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## ontarget7

Nichko said:


> The huge cams look like with the slightest creep it'll rip your arm off. Is it an arm ripper?


Agree with the above, not a arm ripper at all. Good draw cycle, nice valley, good speeds, quiet and shock free on the shot


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## ontarget7

4IDARCHER said:


> So now that you have got to play with the Halon 6 a bit, how do you compare the stiffness of draw and the valley vs. the defiant turbo? Both have similar speeds and brace heights


I would say they are pretty comparable in the #3 cam Turbo but the Turbo being about 5+ fps faster. 

Now the #2 cam Turbo, that's a different animal in the E slot and you will see it about 15 fps faster than the H6. Shorter valley but smooth stiff draw on the #2 cam.


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## ontarget7

WVBowhunter10 said:


> Very good thread and thanks for your time ontarget. I have worked in a shop and worked on my own bows for quite some time and seeing what you have found will cut my time down considerably when I decide if I want to get one of these bad boys for myself.


Your welcome !

Glad it helped you out !


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## BrokenLimbs

JoshPSU said:


> Just when I think I want to get a bow press and start doing my own work I read something like this and realize how little I know.


Got to start somewhere. Besides, no substitute for trial and error. And having a press can totally save the day when you need make an adjustment, move/replace the peep etc.

Question for ontarget7..... Once your bow was tuned, were the timing alignment holes lining up as expected with the cables?


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## bluesette

When is this thing going to hit the dealers?


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## GBREWER21

Tagged


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## RedNeckBowHntr

ontarget7 said:


> One thing that is evident with the weight distribution and the grip being so low, you can change cam synch quite easy just from a low wrist to a high wrist grip. It is very noticeable even when you start the draw cycle in a drawboard. The top will want to come back to you in a hurry. More so than any other bow I can remember. If you didn't grip the bow in your hand upon drawing it, I bet that too cam would come back and hit you in the head, it's that noticeable.


While I certainly appreciate and respect your vast knowledge which is far greater than mine, it is just interesting how two people's experiences can be so very different. I shot this bow quite a bit the other day and did not notice this at all. I did not have to grip the bow when I drew back and I never once noticed or felt like the top cam was wanting to come back towards me. I felt like the bow balanced quite well for me. With the grip being placed as low as it is on the riser, I was actually pretty surprised that it balanced as well as it did for me. It seems to me that we all interact with our bows very differently and have different experiences with them.


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## rustown

ontarget7 said:


> I have been asked quite a few time about string angle. It does draw more like a 33" ATA bow but I do see one issue you may encounter. The serving travels down a little ways on the aim string coming out of the cam to accommodate for speed nock configuration. You might see an issue with the longer draw guys getting your peep height in your desired location. Just something to consider and check out before you buy.


Without a doubt. That was my problem.


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## BrokenLimbs

Just wondering why hunters would choose the H6 over the H7. Trade 1 full inch of brace for 10 fps? Doesn't seem like the speed benefits would outweigh forgiveness benefits. (Not to mention a slightly less reflexed riser design on the H7 which also should make a bow easier to shoot.)


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## jmack73

I got the shop demo model as soon as another one comes in! Can't wait for Brown to show up with another shipment of em!


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## jmack73

BrokenLimbs said:


> Just wondering why hunters would choose the H6 over the H7. Trade 1 full inch of brace for 10 fps? Doesn't seem like the speed benefits would outweigh forgiveness benefits. (Not to mention a slightly less reflexed riser design on the H7 which also should make a bow easier to shoot.)


Better shoot the 6 first. It may surprise you....


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## Seadonist

jmack73 said:


> Better shoot the 6 first. It may surprise you....


I agree. Shoot the 6 first


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## BrokenLimbs

jmack73 said:


> Better shoot the 6 first. It may surprise you....





Seadonist said:


> I agree. Shoot the 6 first


So hard to justify when I have a Chill-R. And since I'm a leftie, it's tough finding let alone comparing bows side by side.


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## Seadonist

I said the same thing about my HTR. Now I've got a Halon in order


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## bowdup

Ok shane, so heres the question. Would you rather have the new carbon defiant turbo this year or the halon 6. Similar except the ata is a longer on the hoyt.


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## ontarget7

bowdup said:


> Ok shane, so heres the question. Would you rather have the new carbon defiant turbo this year or the halon 6. Similar except the ata is a longer on the hoyt.


The H6 definitely has potential to be my favorite Mathews to date. 

It does have a tall order thou to topple the Turbo for me personally. 

Both bows great choices and it would come down to ones personal preference.


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## bowdup

The halon is a good looking bow. I used to have a MR 7 and liked it. It shot lights out. Sometimes i find myself wondering why i sold it! But no complaints here, im loving my new Nitrum Long draw!


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## ontarget7

*Mathews HALON 6 arrived for a review &gt;&gt;--------&gt;*

The Halon is definitely a step up from the MR series bows IMO


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## bowdup

at 32" draw do you think the string angle would be too sharp? it was ok on the MR7, but that bow was 33" ata i believe. Just a question, I know you can compare the two bows better than I.


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## ontarget7

bowdup said:


> at 32" draw do you think the string angle would be too sharp? it was ok on the MR7, but that bow was 33" ata i believe. Just a question, I know you can compare the two bows better than I.


Peep will be an issue more than likely


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## bowdup

When it comes to 32" draw bows, it seems like Hoyt and PSE have better options for Long Draw shooters. I cant see someone at 32.5" draw shooting that 30ata bow. But i bet someone will try it and im interested to see how it comes out.


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## tandin93

Was the string angle @ 29" DL a problem for you?


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## Bryan Thacker

Hey Shane,how would you go about stabilizing the H6? Are you going to run a short or long stabilizer on the front & do you think there will be a need for a side bar with the weight of the bow?

Thx!


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## ontarget7

tandin93 said:


> Was the string angle @ 29" DL a problem for you?


Was not a problem at all


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## ontarget7

*Mathews HALON 6 arrived for a review &gt;&gt;--------&gt;*



Bryan Thacker said:


> Hey Shane,how would you go about stabilizing the H6? Are you going to run a short or long stabilizer on the front & do you think there will be a need for a side bar with the weight of the bow?
> 
> Thx!


Haven't got into the stabilizers yet. I generally run a 10-12" front stab with my hunting bows and start off with 3-5oz of weight out front. 
Then if I'm not happy with results I would play with a side bar as well. 

After Thanksgiving I will be dialing it in for one of the guys at Hunting Fool Magazine as well as filming start to finish steps on the tuning. 


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## Seadonist

Bryan Thacker said:


> Hey Shane,how would you go about stabilizing the H6? Are you going to run a short or long stabilizer on the front & do you think there will be a need for a side bar with the weight of the bow?
> 
> Thx!


I'm going to run a 10" Bowfinger out front and play with weights as needed. Will add side/ back bar if needed but I'm hoping not or very minimal.


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## BrownLMM

ontarget7 said:


> Haven't got into the stabilizers yet. I generally run a 10-12" front stab with my hunting bows and start off with 3-5oz of weight out front.
> Then if I'm not happy with results I would play with a side bar as well.
> 
> After Thanksgiving I will be dialing it in for one of the guys at Hunting Fool Magazine as well as filming start to finish steps on the tuning.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do you post the film on YouTube? 


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## ontarget7

BrownLMM said:


> Do you post the film on YouTube?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I believe since its for Hunting Fool Magazine it will be on their website. I will get more of the details when we start filming and keep you posted. 




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## bucknheat

ontarget7 I would love to get your thoughts of how Hoyts Defiant series (NOT THE CARBON VERSION) stacks up to the Halon?


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## ontarget7

bucknheat said:


> ontarget7 I would love to get your thoughts of how Hoyts Defiant series (NOT THE CARBON VERSION) stacks up to the Halon?


Working on getting one in solely for a review breakdown like this one from start to finish. 




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## duckaholic

Billincamo said:


> Thats a given, almost all cam systems are. A 1/2 twist makes a big difference in any two cam bow.


All previous monsters not as much so....


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## duckaholic

You are definitely right about grip, you can't use the same style you would with pse or a hoyt, you will have some nice tears. It likes it between the thumb and index finger best in my experience with it.


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## ontarget7

duckaholic said:


> You are definitely right about grip, you can't use the same style you would with pse or a hoyt, you will have some nice tears. It likes it between the thumb and index finger best in my experience with it.


Yep, that's why I brought it up. Pretty neutral but more high in the webbing. 


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## ontarget7

*Mathews HALON 6 arrived for a review &gt;&gt;--------&gt;*

I have had a few people ask for clarification on top hat spacers. 

My final configuration was top cam small one on the right. Bottom cam was large on right. 

Factory settings had both the large on right, top and bottom


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## johnno

ontarget7 said:


> Although serving separation is easily fixed by reserving, .


Nah much easier than that - PM me if interested.....cheers :darkbeer:


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## 573mms

ontarget7 said:


> Yep, that's why I brought it up. Pretty neutral but more high in the webbing.
> 
> I do better with low wrist, pushing with the palm of my hand. Which grip do you see better for that?


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## ridgehunter70

RedNeckBowHntr said:


> While I certainly appreciate and respect your vast knowledge which is far greater than mine, it is just interesting how two people's experiences can be so very different. I shot this bow quite a bit the other day and did not notice this at all. I did not have to grip the bow when I drew back and I never once noticed or felt like the top cam was wanting to come back towards me. I felt like the bow balanced quite well for me. With the grip being placed as low as it is on the riser, I was actually pretty surprised that it balanced as well as it did for me. It seems to me that we all interact with our bows very differently and have different experiences with them.


I found this to be the same results I had with this bow. I'm liking it a lot. But I'm just waiting for my dealer to get the h7 in.  

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## saskhic

ontarget7 said:


> I would love to see a fixed yoke system in the future. Overall first impression is very nice, you were right 🏼
> 
> See how specs speeds and performance all play out


As in fixed yoke you mean get rid of doughnut?

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## saskhic

No way they get rid of avs system to tie it to the limbs!

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## bownazi

ontarget7 said:


> I have had a few people ask for clarification on top hat spacers.
> 
> My final configuration was top cam small one on the right. Bottom cam was large on right.
> 
> Factory settings had both the large on right, top and bottom
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You should note that the position of the large and small bushings is not etched in stone...they are used to control limb deflection to make them perfect in the control of cam lean.

Mine had both large on the right or riser side and cam lean is perfect and mirror.

What Shane did when he changed the top was added more negative lean to the top cam.

I do not recommend that everyone start screwing around with their top hats as soon as they get their new bow or you will have the tech guys at Mathews pulling their hair out

I will take the floating yoke with the AVS over static all day long


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## Buckfevr

BrokenLimbs said:


> Just wondering why hunters would choose the H6 over the H7. Trade 1 full inch of brace for 10 fps? Doesn't seem like the speed benefits would outweigh forgiveness benefits. (Not to mention a slightly less reflexed riser design on the H7 which also should make a bow easier to shoot.)


I ordered the 7.


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## BrokenLimbs

Buckfevr said:


> I ordered the 7.


You didn't get to shoot a H7 yet, did you?


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## Buckfevr

BrokenLimbs said:


> You didn't get to shoot a H7 yet, did you?


No I didn't want to wait that long. I was told might be February on a black one and I have a qualifier in May, so I didn't want to wait on the order. Besides that to be honest I can't tell right off whether it's going to work for me. Probably takes me 500 shots to know. But I do like the specs on the 7. Almost straight riser, fairly long riser relative relative to the overall length, but because of the bigger cams, not as pronounced as on the HTR, so a little more of a horizontal component to the system, which I seem to need for my shooting style. And in addition to the less reflexed riser I'll take the 1" shorter powerstroke, it's got plenty of speed.

I think it depends on your draw length too, the 6 isn't horribly reflexed.


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## ontarget7

bownazi said:


> You should note that the position of the large and small bushings is not etched in stone...they are used to control limb deflection to make them perfect in the control of cam lean.
> 
> Mine had both large on the right or riser side and cam lean is perfect and mirror.
> 
> What Shane did when he changed the top was added more negative lean to the top cam.
> 
> I do not recommend that everyone start screwing around with their top hats as soon as they get their new bow or you will have the tech guys at Mathews pulling their hair out
> 
> I will take the floating yoke with the AVS over static all day long


Of coarse you shouldn't just start swapping for no reason, I completely agree. 

With that said, when you find centershot way outside the normal range and you like a bow, there might be ways to correct it so you can gain the most performance from it. Lots of guys sell bows due to tuning reasons and the biggest reason when I encountered these initial results, I figured I would breakdown all the scenarios to get it where it needs to be. 

For me personally, static yokes are better at fine controlling your lateral nock travel vs shimming and trying to come up with different shim configurations tiger the same results. 



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## ontarget7

*Mathews HALON 6 arrived for a review &gt;&gt;--------&gt;*



RedNeckBowHntr said:


> While I certainly appreciate and respect your vast knowledge which is far greater than mine, it is just interesting how two people's experiences can be so very different. I shot this bow quite a bit the other day and did not notice this at all. I did not have to grip the bow when I drew back and I never once noticed or felt like the top cam was wanting to come back towards me. I felt like the bow balanced quite well for me. With the grip being placed as low as it is on the riser, I was actually pretty surprised that it balanced as well as it did for me. It seems to me that we all interact with our bows very differently and have different experiences with them.


That's cool, appreciate your feedback. 

Just by carrying the H6 down at my side, with hand on the grip and strings facing the ground it is very apparent to me compared to other bows. 

I put in quite a few miles in the backcountry and have taken some top heavy bows before and much prefer a more neutral balanced feel when taking on all those miles in the backcountry. 

Now when you are just holding it to shoot, it's not that bad at all and feels pretty decent in the hand. 

Hope that clarifies what I am referring to, it's more the way a bow is carried when putting many miles in the backcountry. If you relax your hand at at all, the top cam would immediately hit the ground when carrying the bow to your side. 


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## BrokenLimbs

I know what you mean. Lots of bows "want to be" carried by string/cables because of that balance and ergonomics thing. Traveling like that frequently/long distances does take a toll on the string, serving & D-loop as well. Actually I realized my serving had slipped this fall because of that. Not a deal breaker but something to think about for sure.


----------



## ovation1

ontarget7 said:


> 35 1/2"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 26 1/4"


Thanks for that....... my chill x measures 40 inches over all ( 35 inch a-a )

my drenlin measures 37.25 inches over all ( 33 inch a-a ), the string angle on my chill x fits me perfect, 30.7/8 draw length, the string angle on my drenlin is to steep in my opinion for treestand hunting.

A 34 inch a-a Halon would get me to buy one...........


----------



## Bonz

I was looking at getting a new bow this year. I have a hoyt alphamax 35 and am getting either a new hoyt or mathews halon. Is it just me or does it seem that any of the newer mathews bows with the avs cam system, that guys have a lot of tuning issues with them? Seems like a lot of right tears thru paper and rest adjustments do not get them out.. I like the looks of the new mathews halon, but I do not want a bow that you have to tear apart and switch limbs, top hats, etc. OnTarget, ( Shane) have you encountered a lot of tuning nightmares with the avs system and how do you deal with them?


----------



## whack n stack

Like watching Cameron Hanes do a review of a Mathews bow. Cute.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk


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## bambikiller

whack n stack said:


> Like watching Cameron Hanes do a review of a Mathews bow. Cute.
> 
> Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk


Lol I missed that I guess 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ontarget7

Bonz said:


> I was looking at getting a new bow this year. I have a hoyt alphamax 35 and am getting either a new hoyt or mathews halon. Is it just me or does it seem that any of the newer mathews bows with the avs cam system, that guys have a lot of tuning issues with them? Seems like a lot of right tears thru paper and rest adjustments do not get them out.. I like the looks of the new mathews halon, but I do not want a bow that you have to tear apart and switch limbs, top hats, etc. OnTarget, ( Shane) have you encountered a lot of tuning nightmares with the avs system and how do you deal with them?


Not necessarily, you just have to go about fine tuning an AVS system differently than a system with yokes. Some are good right out of the gate and some will need top hat / sleeve bushing reconfigured. 

It's all personal preference and the end results will be equal when you take these steps, if you encounter similar situations. 

Overall, it appears to be a very good offering for Mathews this year. All thou there are a view things that I would like to see changed, I would have know issues shooting one. 

I feel Mathews did a great job in the overall looks and new design in the Halon line up. 
Very good draw cycle, good speeds, firm backwall. Will be testing it out down range with stab and all in the next week or so. 


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## griffwar

whack n stack said:


> Like watching Cameron Hanes do a review of a Mathews bow. Cute.
> 
> Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk


LOL great one!!


----------



## RedNeckBowHntr

ontarget7 said:


> That's cool, appreciate your feedback.
> 
> Just by carrying the H6 down at my side, with hand on the grip and strings facing the ground it is very apparent to me compared to other bows.
> 
> I put in quite a few miles in the backcountry and have taken some top heavy bows before and much prefer a more neutral balanced feel when taking on all those miles in the backcountry.
> 
> Now when you are just holding it to shoot, it's not that bad at all and feels pretty decent in the hand.
> 
> Hope that clarifies what I am referring to, it's more the way a bow is carried when putting many miles in the backcountry. If you relax your hand at at all, the top cam would immediately hit the ground when carrying the bow to your side.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Gotcha! I thought you were referring to how the bow balances when you draw it. This certainly makes sense.


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## ontarget7

RedNeckBowHntr said:


> Gotcha! I thought you were referring to how the bow balances when you draw it. This certainly makes sense.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I can notice it when drawing it as well but it's not that big of deal. The pressure immediately goes to the upper area between your index finger and thumb. Makes sense you get a tail high reaction when you try and shoot with a lower wrist grip. The new grip is comfortable and if you just let it sit in the pocket it is very repeatable with bareshafts. 


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## BrokenLimbs

This balance thing introduces another question..... 

What happens when you decide to use the focus group with a low low wrist with this bow? Is this bow with the focus group a bad combination?

From my experience the focus grip seems to require a low wrist to achieve the desired results.


----------



## ontarget7

I feel it has the potential to create some vertical tear issues that may not be resolved unless you went to a more high wrist grip. 




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## BrokenLimbs

Due to the low grip on the riser correct?


----------



## MR 28

Any pics of high wrist vs low wrist? Very interesting.


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## ontarget7

BrokenLimbs said:


> Due to the low grip on the riser correct?


Yes sir

At least this my initial take on it with this particular bow. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ontarget7

MR 28 said:


> Any pics of high wrist vs low wrist? Very interesting.


I will see if I can post some pics later on for you


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## MR 28

Thanks Shane!


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## ontarget7

I do like the new camo 




















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## Buckfevr

ontarget7 said:


> I do like the new camo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm a black bow guy and that's what I went with on the H7 order, but I was real close to going with the Camo.


----------



## 4IDARCHER

I really like the stone, but the new HD does look good.


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## Bonz

What exactly are the " top hats" that you refer to on these mathews bows? Are they different sized spacers or what?


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## ontarget7

Bonz said:


> What exactly are the " top hats" that you refer to on these mathews bows? Are they different sized spacers or what?


These are the top hat / sleeve spacers. They act like a spacer but sleeved to go in the limb and over the diameter of the axle. 











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## ontarget7

MR 28 said:


> Any pics of high wrist vs low wrist? Very interesting.


Here is a pic of what I am referring to. You can see I don't have the heel driving down into the lower portion of the grip. 
It's like if you were to make a fist straight out in front of you, then turn your knuckles at a 45* angle. When you contact the grip it's more in the upper portion of that pocket between index finger and thumb











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## MR 28

I have an HTR and have seen the draw force curve on the Halon 6 and HTR. It seems that apples to apples (#70 vs #70) the HALON was smoother with not as an abrupt valley. Wall was similar and lack of vibration.

Anybody else feel they noticed that too?


----------



## chaded

I use a pretty low wrist so looks like that isn't going to work. Lol


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## ontarget7

chaded said:


> I use a pretty low wrist so looks like that isn't going to work. Lol


Might work just fine but for this particular bow if I shot a low wrist you would have an instant high tear in the nock level position and cams synched dead nuts the same. 




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## SCFox

ontarget7 said:


> Might work just fine but for this particular bow if I shot a low wrist you would have an instant high tear in the nock level position and cams synched dead nuts the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I know we are all a little different in regards to grip pressure, but I haven't had any issues with paper and a low wrist grip. Also, certainly not arguing with your findings. 

SCFox


----------



## ontarget7

SCFox said:


> I know we are all a little different in regards to grip pressure, but I haven't had any issues with paper and a low wrist grip. Also, certainly not arguing with your findings.
> 
> SCFox


Bareshafts ? 


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## ontarget7

By the way, it's not just my findings. Have quite a few emailing me that they are seeing the same thing with bareshafts 


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## 0nepin

Spot on !!!


whack n stack said:


> Like watching Cameron Hanes do a review of a Mathews bow. Cute.
> 
> Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk


----------



## Doebuster

As I said before I shot it with a biscuit and the tech at the shop said it bullet holed first shot , it shot my arrows like bullets, looked like perfect flight ! I shot high wrist and low wrist still looked like great flight , I'm not as picky as some , but it seemed to tune just fine !


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## ontarget7

Doebuster said:


> As I said before I shot it with a biscuit and the tech at the shop said it bullet holed first shot , it shot my arrows like bullets, looked like perfect flight ! I shot high wrist and low wrist still looked like great flight , I'm not as picky as some , but it seemed to tune just fine !


No offense, but a biscuit with a fletched arrow and a perfect bullet hole is extremely easy to achieve. I don't necessarily consider it to be tuned after that. 


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## eskimoohunt

Ok so we have a 1000 dollar bow that you put spacers in?????


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## Doebuster

ontarget7 said:


> No offense, but a biscuit with a fletched arrow and a perfect bullet hole is extremely easy to achieve. I don't necessarily consider it to be tuned after that.
> 
> It was a joke brotha ! I knew what u were gonna say I respect your opinion !


----------



## Doebuster

Those biscuits are the bomb when it comes to bow tuning ! It I'll even make the halon easy to tune without swapping anything around !!! Lol


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## bownazi

ontarget7 said:


> Of coarse you shouldn't just start swapping for no reason, I completely agree.
> 
> With that said, when you find centershot way outside the normal range and you like a bow, there might be ways to correct it so you can gain the most performance from it. Lots of guys sell bows due to tuning reasons and the biggest reason when I encountered these initial results, I figured I would breakdown all the scenarios to get it where it needs to be.
> 
> For me personally, static yokes are better at fine controlling your lateral nock travel vs shimming and trying to come up with different shim configurations tiger the same results.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I did not mean that for you ..I know that you know what you are doing and trying everything to see where it takes you....it was for everyone else that is reading your review


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## ontarget7

bownazi said:


> I did not mean that for you ..I know that you know what you are doing and trying everything to see where it takes you....it was for everyone else that is reading your review


Sorry bro, didn't mean it like that. You know your Mathews bows and your input is always welcome. 

Thanks for your input !


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## ontarget7

eskimoohunt said:


> Ok so we have a 1000 dollar bow that you put spacers in?????


Just like tricking a rifle out you just bought to improve accuracy. Nothing out of the ordinary and I do it all the time. 


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## griffwar

ontarget7 said:


> Of coarse you shouldn't just start swapping for no reason, I completely agree.
> 
> With that said, when you find centershot way outside the normal range and you like a bow, there might be ways to correct it so you can gain the most performance from it. Lots of guys sell bows due to tuning reasons and the biggest reason when I encountered these initial results, I figured I would breakdown all the scenarios to get it where it needs to be.
> 
> For me personally, static yokes are better at fine controlling your lateral nock travel vs shimming and trying to come up with different shim configurations tiger the same results.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I found once you get your top hats right for center shot it is a one time deal, that is if you even have a problem!! Unlike other bow's that every time you change strings you got to start adding or subtracting from the yoke's to get your center shot right again!! I like doing thing's one time not every time I change strings, but that's just Me. I doubt the majority of people will not have to bother with the top-hats at all, but if they do it's a one time deal!


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## bownazi

griffwar said:


> I found once you get your top hats right for center shot it is a one time deal, that is if you even have a problem!! Unlike other bow's that every time you change strings you got to start adding or subtracting from the yoke's to get your center shot right again!! I like doing thing's one time not every time I change strings, but that's just Me. I doubt the majority of people will not have to bother with the top-hats at all, but if they do it's a one time deal!


This^^


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## ontarget7

*Mathews HALON 6 arrived for a review &gt;&gt;--------&gt;*



griffwar said:


> I found once you get your top hats right for center shot it is a one time deal, that is if you even have a problem!! Unlike other bow's that every time you change strings you got to start adding or subtracting from the yoke's to get your center shot right again!! I like doing thing's one time not every time I change strings, but that's just Me. I doubt the majority of people will not have to bother with the top-hats at all, but if they do it's a one time deal!


This is generally true to a point. I have had same bows come in after a year of shooting and needing some added tweaking with spacers or centershot. Same with a static yoke system. Easy enough to verify the intersection point with an arrow laying on the side of the cam projected down to the d loop. Once you have good records it is very easy to repeat these settings. I have seen the static yokes change over time as well. It's inevitable if you keep a bow long enough. 





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## PT1911

eskimoohunt said:


> Ok so we have a 1000 dollar bow that you put spacers in?????


Ok, just to be clear, he did not PUT spacers in that 1000 dollar bow.......they CAME in the bow. He just moved them around.


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## ontarget7

PT1911 said:


> Ok, just to be clear, he did not PUT spacers in that 1000 dollar bow.......they CAME in the bow. He just moved them around.


Correct




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## USMCKoontz

Doebuster said:


> Those biscuits are the bomb when it comes to bow tuning ! It I'll even make the halon easy to tune without swapping anything around !!! Lol


Hey!  I am a drop away fan but I am really liking the Whisker Biscuit for Hunting myself. Dont know what it is about them


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## swbuckmaster

ontarget7 said:


> Here are my final results after testing a view different options.
> 
> Factory settings cam in with top hat bushings, large on right side for both top and bottom cam.
> 
> I ended up with only changing the top to small top hat spacer on right. This gave me the best centershot location at 13/16.
> 
> Now to get clean vertical nock travel and cams hitting at the same time, I ended up having the arrow running higher in the Berger hole and it is sitting perfectly nock level.
> 
> The 13/16 centershot with the top hat bushing, small to the right on this bow made the arrow running perfectly parallel with the side of the riser. It also put the top cable stop within reason of landing on the felt and not towards the outer edge of the cable stop.
> 
> 
> 
> Grip is very neutral, no real knuckles towards the target or back to you. The new grip is very comfortable and repeatable. It does not like a low wrist grip and more high in the throat where the webbing is between the index finger and thumb. When you go low wrist / heel of the hand it will create a tail high effect and we cause you to have cams not hitting at the same time.
> 
> Bareshafts at 20 yards are on the money and very repeatable with great consistency.
> 
> Here are a few pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am well aware that most won't go through these steps to get optimal results. Personally for me, I can't see not taking these steps. It gives you the most forgiving flight and a fair assessment of what the bow is capable of. Now it's just up to the archer to do their part.
> 
> Hope this gives you a good understanding of some of the ins and outs you might encounter.


Could the high wrist be caused by tunning on draw board. A draw board pulls high in the grip and doesn't mimic how a you would actually hold it. It seems you are tunning to a mechanical device then adjusting grip ect to mimic a shooting like the mechanical device. Why not tune to how you hold the bow since it's you that has to shoot it. I would think playing with tiller, loop placment and rest placment you would have the bow still shooting bare shafts with fletched but with a bow tunned to how you hold it. 

Like seeing the process though. Most people have no idea how to truly set up a bow. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## ontarget7

swbuckmaster said:


> Could the high wrist be caused by tunning on draw board. A draw board pulls high in the grip and doesn't mimic how a you would actually hold it. It seems you are tunning to a mechanical device then adjusting grip ect to mimic a shooting like the mechanical device. Why not tune to how you hold the bow since it's you that has to shoot it. I would think playing with tiller, loop placment and rest placment you would have the bow still shooting bare shafts with fletched but with a bow tunned to how you hold it.
> 
> Like seeing the process though. Most people have no idea how to truly set up a bow.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Well I wouldn't get bareshaft results that are true to fletched and wouldn't consider it tuned until I shot it. 

After its all said in done those are the settings after this one was tuned and shot in. 

I do not use a Hooter Shooter when tuning. These are all settings after it was in the hand shooting. 

Going to play devils advocate a little. How would you fix a tail high bareshaft result in the nock level position, with cams synched dead nuts at the same time ?


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## swbuckmaster

I'd probably take the cam out of cync depending on the bow. It may only be a half twist in one cable. If it was more then that I'd play with loop height just like you did on your draw board. 

My daughters bow had a slight tail high bare shaft tune. A half twist either way and the bare shaft would hit high or low with fletched. It still always had a angled tail high bareshaft. Went to a lighter blade and it fixed everything. 

With my single cam bows I tune the loop angle and adjust rest. I want the loop where the bow aims and feels good in my hand. I then adjust the rest height. Some tune high through burger some tune through the burger. None of my single cams have level nock travel but they all have great bare shaft flight.



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## swbuckmaster

Sorry if i wasnt clear but the mechanical device I was taking about was your draw board and not a hooter. It seems like you tunned the bow to the draw board. That's fine I do the same thing. However when you shot it in by hand it didn't want to tune with the way you normally hold. It wanted a high wrist. Well that's how it was tunned on the drawing board. A drawing board holds the bow high in the grip just like shooting it with a high wrist. 

I think you have done an excellent job tunning this bow. I like the steps you have taken and how you explain what your doing. Excellent thread and would love to see the youtube clip or video when your finished. 



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## ontarget7

There comes a point that you either have poor cam synch, so this particular system does not hit at the same time, giving you a less than desirable feel on the backend wall and resulting in wider down range groups from a vertical spread. Or you can assess what the bow likes and make small changes to the shooter at the grip to gain the most out of its potential. 

Let's say I tune it to a low grip with this particular bow. It would mean a backwall that you can feel the play into the wall or a nock low condition. Neither of these are desirable to me so I opt to make slight changes in grip to gain the most out of performance down range. 




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## WhiteTail'R2K15

First thing I thought when saw and held it was it looks very goofy because of the huge cams and small limbs. The Halon has a smooth draw and nice release. Overall I'd say it is a nice bow, just a little on the goofy side, but that is alright. Someone will kill a buck with it.


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## beegee59

Good read, Thanks Shane for sharing your findings. looks like a good 3d rig but too heavy for my hunting application, 3 steps foward 2 steps backwards lol.


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## duckaholic

My bottom cable hits to the edge of the mod as well, but I don't see it causing any I'll effects to the performance. The roller guards position seems like it will give you that one way or the other


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## MaddSkillz

MR 28 said:


> I have an HTR and have seen the draw force curve on the Halon 6 and HTR. It seems that apples to apples (#70 vs #70) the HALON was smoother with not as an abrupt valley. Wall was similar and lack of vibration.
> 
> Anybody else feel they noticed that too?


That would be interesting considering the Halon is faster.


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## rcdvt

Where is this cam hanes halon review? Anyone have a link


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## blance7

rcdvt said:


> Where is this cam hanes halon review? Anyone have a link


Oh come on give him a break lol He is sponsored and he never bashes the Mathews. I've been pretty clear I haven't liked most Mathews bows but the Halons are shooters. They don't quite feel as good to my hand than a hoyt but I am sure I could get used to it. Great Draw, Super solid back wall and they do not want to take off if you relax..and It wasn't even close to fitted to me and I was packing tight groups.


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## atv69

I just ordered the Halon 6! I'm pumped but I have to ask why are some of the other colors 50.00 extra???


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## rcdvt

Well idk about that whole hoyt got life thing but that Dodge sponsorship he picked up is pretty boss


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## seiowabow

rcdvt said:


> Where is this cam hanes halon review? Anyone have a link


i think he was comparing Shane's review to Cam Hanes reviewing a Mathews, because they are both Hoyt guys. i could be wrong, but that's what I got from Whack's comment.


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## ontarget7

seiowabow said:


> i think he was comparing Shane's review to Cam Hanes reviewing a Mathews, because they are both Hoyt guys. i could be wrong, but that's what I got from Whack's comment.


Kids will be kids !

Some will be childish regardless how much effort you put forth to share this kind of info. 


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## Wenty

Had the opportunity to shoot a few different halon 6 the last few days. Really liked the cycle...dead in the hand. Just about everything was great. Really a great shootng bow!! String angle a little tight though...for me. But I really liked the Bow. Looking forward to the 7 to help take some of that angle out.

Both bows though....bare shaft was extreme nock right @20. Impact about 10" left. Seems to kind of be the same as years past where we had to slide the rest out 1"+ to fix. So this leads me to my question....

Would it not be possible to put some static yokes on this Bow? Looks like a custom set wouldn't be all that hard to build. Just bigger end loops...way bigger! I think that would rectify any potential tuning issues... Like the dreaded Mathews right tear I had on both bows.

Thoughts?


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## Bryan Thacker

whack n stack said:


> Like watching Cameron Hanes do a review of a Mathews bow. Cute.
> 
> Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk


Katniss Everdeen has done more for archery than Cam!


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## ontarget7

Wenty said:


> Had the opportunity to shoot a few different halon 6 the last few days. Really liked the cycle...dead in the hand. Just about everything was great. Really a great shootng bow!! String angle a little tight though...for me. But I really liked the Bow. Looking forward to the 7 to help take some of that angle out.
> 
> Both bows though....bare shaft was extreme nock right @20. Impact about 10" left. Seems to kind of be the same as years past where we had to slide the rest out 1"+ to fix. So this leads me to my question....
> 
> Would it not be possible to put some static yokes on this Bow? Looks like a custom set wouldn't be all that hard to build. Just bigger end loops...way bigger! I think that would rectify any potential tuning issues... Like the dreaded Mathews right tear I had on both bows.
> 
> Thoughts?


You don't need your rest at 1" centershot. I walked you through the process in this thread. 


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## Bonz

ontarget7 said:


> You don't need your rest at 1" centershot. I walked you through the process in this thread.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is it a matter of switching top hats with this bow to get it to tune at the approximate center shot?


----------



## ontarget7

Bonz said:


> Is it a matter of switching top hats with this bow to get it to tune at the approximate center shot?


Yes, brought centershot to 13/16 instead of 1"+


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Wenty

ontarget7 said:


> You don't need your rest at 1" centershot. I walked you through the process in this thread.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Oh. Didn't realize you walked me through anything. I see now you had to go beyond the norm.

It turns out you did have to put it at 1". Before going out of the norm tuning. Guess I wasn't so far off with my initial thoughts. So for the majority of owners they will have to put it at 1"+/-...unless they have a press and the knowledge to shim. Both I shot were terrible nock right. Surely I could shim...you can shim...a few here can shim. But majority...not gonna happen. We will be at the range and see most tuned way outside.

So back to my question. What do we think about statics. Looks very doable on this system. Or will that put too much stress on the cam system. I also see that statics were lightly touched on but not discussed. Looks like it would be a great setup with some custom statics.


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## Ryjax

Wenty said:


> Oh. Didn't realize you walked me through anything. I see now you had to go beyond the norm.
> 
> It turns out you did have to put it at 1". Before going out of the norm tuning. Guess I wasn't so far off with my initial thoughts. So for the majority of owners they will have to put it at 1"+/-...unless they have a press and the knowledge to shim. Both I shot were terrible nock right. Surely I could shim...you can shim...a few here can shim. But majority...not gonna happen. We will be at the range and see most tuned way outside.
> 
> So back to my question. What do we think about statics. Looks very doable on this system. Or will that put too much stress on the cam system. I also see that statics were lightly touched on but not discussed. Looks like it would be a great setup with some custom statics.


There is a shop in Illinois that builds custom strings and cables with a true yoke system for the Monster line from Mathews. They did it for the wake, so I'm sure they could for the Halon too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jmack73

The Halon is a bargain at $859.00!!


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## Wenty

Ryjax said:


> There is a shop in Illinois that builds custom strings and cables with a true yoke system for the Monster line from Mathews. They did it for the wake, so I'm sure they could for the Halon too.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Interesting. Do you have a link...pics...or more info on the shop? 

My initial thought after getting the bad bare shaft...and looking at the cam/rigging. Thought it would be a great candidate for split statics... And looked easy enough to accomplish. 

If the 7 shoots as nice as the 6...I can get a little wider string angle and statics. It may well be my next Bow. Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## timboj

ontarget7 said:


> No offense, but a biscuit with a fletched arrow and a perfect bullet hole is extremely easy to achieve. I don't necessarily consider it to be tuned after that.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Just curious..... Not being argumentative at all. But IF you are shooting bullet holes with fletched arrows....AND your fixed blade broadheads are impacting with your field points at all ranges....don't you have a reasonably well tuned bow? Certainly there are other issues that I address and some other tuning techniques I use such as bare shaft, cam lean, walk back tuning, etc......but I've most always found that shooting a bullethole with a fletched arrow remains fairly indicative of how the bow is going to shoot downrange. Even with the vilified Whisker Biscuit. Just my 2 cents....???


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## Bryan Thacker

That's what I paid as well....Yap! I ordered a Mathews for the first time since the DXT!!!

Super impressed with the H6! Didn't even plan on even looking at a Mathews this year,but after shooting it I just had to have it!!!


----------



## Ryjax

Wenty said:


> Interesting. Do you have a link...pics...or more info on the shop?
> 
> My initial thought after getting the bad bare shaft...and looking at the cam/rigging. Thought it would be a great candidate for split statics... And looked easy enough to accomplish.
> 
> If the 7 shoots as nice as the 6...I can get a little wider string angle and statics. It may well be my next Bow. Thanks for the heads up.


I think it's called gun world, but I cannot remember exactly. If you look on my profile, I am friends with Panthers71. He has all the info on his signature. I think Illinois was the wrong state.... It may have been Indiana... 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bonz

ontarget7 said:


> Yes, brought centershot to 13/16 instead of 1"+
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When you switched the top hats on the top and bottom cam, the draw stops barely hit the cable, correct? So would it be safe to say if you kept on getting a right tear thru paper that the rest could not get out, that you would just switch the top hats on the top cam?


----------



## Cody06

atv69 said:


> I just ordered the Halon 6! I'm pumped but I have to ask why are some of the other colors 50.00 extra???


Is black $50.00 extra? And what are paying overall for the order?


----------



## BrownLMM

I'm not understanding why a powder coat job is more than the lost camo. Powder coating doesn't cost much to do at all. Unless they sub it out. They do the camo in house right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## progolferv1

got mine today great bow. Anyone know when the 75% mod will be for sale?


----------



## Ryjax

BrownLMM said:


> I'm not understanding why a powder coat job is more than the lost camo. Powder coating doesn't cost much to do at all. Unless they sub it out. They do the camo in house right?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think it has to do with batching. 


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----------



## bonecollector47

Toured the plant this summer. They do all powder coating and dipping in house


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----------



## BrownLMM

I figured they did it all. 

So it's not your typical powder coat. My wife's chill r has a tough finish. My Wake looks like it would scratch easy.


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----------



## Ridgeback8

Nice, makes you want to sell the one I have and buy it!!


----------



## sightpin

Wenty said:


> Interesting. Do you have a link...pics...or more info on the shop?
> 
> My initial thought after getting the bad bare shaft...and looking at the cam/rigging. Thought it would be a great candidate for split statics... And looked easy enough to accomplish.
> 
> If the 7 shoots as nice as the 6...I can get a little wider string angle and statics. It may well be my next Bow. Thanks for the heads up.


*Obviously this would void the warranty.*


----------



## ontarget7

Bonz said:


> When you switched the top hats on the top and bottom cam, the draw stops barely hit the cable, correct? So would it be safe to say if you kept on getting a right tear thru paper that the rest could not get out, that you would just switch the top hats on the top cam?


Correct and the reason I showed both ways and the effects it has even thou both would tune with bareshafts just fine


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----------



## Desertcj

Wow, just read through this whole thread. I have to say that I do really like static yokes to tune, but in this case how would they help? With the yokes attaching inside the limbs, you still have to take the axle out to twist the yokes? At that point you could just swap shims. I wish they would ditch the floating yoke and go outside the limbs or does Bowtech have that patented? Cam and a half isn't too bad either IMO. Anyways, good read!


----------



## Kodiak13

Great read, thanks again!


----------



## Bluemax61

Really "in-depth" review Shane! Thanks! :wink:

I think I'm fixing to ask you a question, which you may have already answered at least once. If so, please accept my apology in advance! :embara: I know you haven't had the opportunity to try out the Defiant 34, but I wondered if it's "that" much better than last year's Nitrum 34?! The reason I ask...

I "just" picked up a 2015 Nitrum 34 and was elated to get it at dealer cost! I have a 29.5" draw length and know the 34 is a more forgiving "choice" for me. But now... I'm letting myself think a made a mistake!  Granted, I purchased the Nitum prior to the Defiant coming out and for me - plunking 700 big-uns down on ANY bow, is a real undertaking for me! And with the Defiant being even "more" $$$, I just feel a little sick thinking, I made a mistake.

So, I just wanted your opinion! Thanks in advance!


----------



## Bluemax61

Sorry for the above post - wrong thread - obviously! :embara:


----------



## Dextee

Ryjax said:


> There is a shop in Illinois that builds custom strings and cables with a true yoke system for the Monster line from Mathews. They did it for the wake, so I'm sure they could for the Halon too.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This could be Select Archery in Bloomington, IL. Crackers (Mike Carter) builds string for them to sell. Or did anyway, It's been a while.


----------



## rutnut

So anyone purchased this bow? Just curious what folks think of it. Im in the market for a bow in 2016. Im stil currently shooting the Bowtech 340


----------



## smokecity

ontarget7 said:


> Kids will be kids !
> 
> Some will be childish regardless how much effort you put forth to share this kind of info.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So True Shane.

You are awesome man. People should feel lucky to read this for free. Years of work have gone into this...

Most appreciate your words and value what you bring to the table. 

I'm not a Hoyt shooter or a Mathews shooter. 

I just appreciate you spending your time on this and shadings

Thanks a million bud.


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----------



## Jabr357

My Halon 6 has equal size spacers on the top cam and large one to the right and small one left on the bottom cam (holding the bow like you shoot it).

I am also getting large right tears which dissapear when I make the centre shot 1 ". 

How should I reconfigure these to decrease the centre shot ?


----------



## ontarget7

You sure your top ones are the same ? They probably aren't, a little goes along way when swapping spacers. 


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## Jabr357

ontarget7 said:


> You sure your top ones are the same ? They probably aren't, a little goes along way when swapping spacers.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for your reply Shane - I have attached pictures of the top and bottom cams- have a look - the left one is the top and the right is the bottom.

The top ones look the same width to me - maybe the right one is a touch wider. On the bottom cam, definitely the right top hat bushing is wider. 

What should I do?


----------



## ontarget7

*Mathews HALON 6 arrived for a review &gt;&gt;--------&gt;*

If the right one is in fact a touch wider I would swap the top first and retune centershot. 

Your welcome 

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----------



## roosterstraw

Do you have a link for the video on tuning this bow yet, Shane?


----------



## dotharth

btolli said:


> Do you have a link for the video on tuning this bow yet, Shane?


ttt
I'm also interested !
Very good thread by the way ! Thank you ontarget


----------



## BoneCollector69

Any more updates or a video available yet?


----------



## eskimoohunt

BrokenLimbs said:


> Just wondering why hunters would choose the H6 over the H7. Trade 1 full inch of brace for 10 fps? Doesn't seem like the speed benefits would outweigh forgiveness benefits. (Not to mention a slightly less reflexed riser design on the H7 which also should make a bow easier to shoot.)


I like your point here well said


----------



## BoneCollector69

I shot both are preferred the 6 over the 7.


----------



## golfernash

ttt


----------



## griffwar

golfernash said:


> ttt


Why!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## shinbone

ontarget7 - Tremendously informative thread! Thanks for spending the time and sharing your knowledge.


----------



## Larkinhjr

griffwar said:


> Why!!!!!!!!!!!!


Bc he wanted to. 


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----------



## bna5017

Ontarget, I have a halon 6 that I have finally got to shoot a respectable bareshaft, but it feels very jumpy at full draw (small valley) compared to how it did prior to my tuning.. 

I have cams hitting at the same time at full draw, arrow dead level through upper part of berger hole, brace height and axle to axle are on the money. But at brace when looking through the cam timing holes the top cam is advanced. I suspect this is where the small valley is coming from. 

Would you recommend setting cams(timing) equal through timing holes and locating nock point in order to maintain the cams hitting at the same time at full draw, and then setting rest height level with nock point and begin tuning from there?

If not, what would be your recommended order of operations?


----------



## johndoe

tagged


----------



## pabuck

Tag

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----------



## Huston

ontarget7 said:


> Not looking good guys, this one is going to need some work.


I have a Mathews HTR I'm trying to top hat tune. I'm not sure it's the same construction on the top hats but it looks similar. How do I get them out from the limbs? Do I just push? From outside or inside?

Thanks


----------



## ontarget7

Huston said:


> I have a Mathews HTR I'm trying to top hat tune. I'm not sure it's the same construction on the top hats but it looks similar. How do I get them out from the limbs? Do I just push? From outside or inside?
> 
> Thanks


Just unscrew the small allen head, then take off the small plastic piece underneath that. Make sure your press has even pressure on the limb tips then tap the axle out. Once you get to this point the top hats will be visible, then slide them out making adjustments accordingly to the results you are getting


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----------



## Buckbadger

Huston said:


> I have a Mathews HTR I'm trying to top hat tune. I'm not sure it's the same construction on the top hats but it looks similar. How do I get them out from the limbs? Do I just push? From outside or inside?
> 
> Thanks


They will only come out one way because of the flange, push from outside towards the inside. Do not stick tools, etc. in the limb to beat them out, as they can be tight. Take another bushing as if you were going to install it backwards from the outside to push the other bushing out.

Not sure how much room you will have with the HTR to fine tune, as the total limb space is way less than a Halon? Where the total on a Halon is .175 which gives plenty of room to shift the cam either way in most cases. Just not sure with the less spacing of the HTR, and how close the cables track to the cam to begin with? As they surely got to have less available hat bushing sizes, where the halon has 6 different sizes to work with?


----------



## ontarget7

Bump for the guy asking about this thread 


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----------



## Wv helium

Do you think the halon is a step up from the Helim or should I keep my Helim?


----------



## ontarget7

Wv helium said:


> Do you think the halon is a step up from the Helim or should I keep my Helim?


I like the Helim but IMO the Halon series is definitely a step up. 


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----------



## Wv helium

Thanks! I guess I'll have to go shoot one.


----------



## USAWCraig

Good looking bow


----------



## WCork

ontarget7 said:


> There comes a point that you either have poor cam synch, so this particular system does not hit at the same time, giving you a less than desirable feel on the backend wall and resulting in wider down range groups from a vertical spread. Or you can assess what the bow likes and make small changes to the shooter at the grip to gain the most out of its potential.
> 
> Let's say I tune it to a low grip with this particular bow. It would mean a backwall that you can feel the play into the wall or a nock low condition. Neither of these are desirable to me so I opt to make slight changes in grip to gain the most out of performance down range.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


After reading through 17 pages of this thread....this is some of the best info I've found.

I had a consistent right tear with my Halon X with the large top hat on the right side of both cams. Swapped the top cam only so that it now has the smaller top hat on the right side and have been getting clean holes. Now to move onto some bare shaft tuning. :thumbs_up


----------



## jmt870

How do these Halons compare to a Hoyt Faktor? Smoother draw? Harder to draw?


----------



## NY_Whitetail

Ontarget7,

If I'm understanding everything that happened, it sounds like the place to start is to set nock height so that the cable stops hit at the same time at full draw (assuming they were synced to start with). Correct?

If so, can you share what your nock height from the shelf ended up being? I recognize that each bow might be a little different - but, it might be nice to have that number as a reference. 

Also, can you please share the distance from your d loop top knot and where the serving coming into the top cam starts? I'm shooting a hinge with a low anchor point and I'm concerned I may not have enough room for a peep.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Scott99

tag


----------



## ontarget7

NY_Whitetail said:


> Ontarget7,
> 
> If I'm understanding everything that happened, it sounds like the place to start is to set nock height so that the cable stops hit at the same time at full draw (assuming they were synced to start with). Correct?
> 
> If so, can you share what your nock height from the shelf ended up being? I recognize that each bow might be a little different - but, it might be nice to have that number as a reference.
> 
> Also, can you please share the distance from your d loop top knot and where the serving coming into the top cam starts? I'm shooting a hinge with a low anchor point and I'm concerned I may not have enough room for a peep.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


You won't necessarily get both cams to hit at the exact same time and get perfect vertical nock travel. 
I don't have any of the Halons in hand at the moment so I can't get those measurements for you. It can and will very thou. I don't even check those myself when setting things up

The baseline I gave should get you very close right out of the gate and then fine tune from there


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----------



## zekezoe

any chance of a halon 32 review?


----------



## ezmethod

zekezoe said:


> any chance of a halon 32 review?


Sub'd - Looking for Halon 32 review / fine tuning as well.


----------



## Longbow42

ontarget7 said:


> You won't necessarily get both cams to hit at the exact same time and get perfect vertical nock travel.
> I don't have any of the Halons in hand at the moment so I can't get those measurements for you. It can and will very thou. I don't even check those myself when setting things up
> 
> The baseline I gave should get you very close right out of the gate and then fine tune from there
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I set my nocking point exactly in the middle of the bow by measuring center of nock to top and bottom cams multiple times and set at 90 decrees, the arrow was just slightly above center of Berger hole. That was for my Halon 32. I'm going to need the top cat kit as I had to move my CS to 11/16" to get rid of a slight left tear, despite moving my thicker top hats to the right.


----------



## ontarget7

Longbow42 said:


> I set my nocking point exactly in the middle of the bow by measuring center of nock to top and bottom cams multiple times and set at 90 decrees, the arrow was just slightly above center of Berger hole. That was for my Halon 32. I'm going to need the top cat kit as I had to move my CS to 11/16" to get rid of a slight left tear, despite moving my thicker top hats to the right.


Did you end up with both smaller top hats on the left ? 
You shoot more open hand ? 


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----------



## Longbow42

ontarget7 said:


> Did you end up with both smaller top hats on the left ?
> You shoot more open hand ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes I did, but probably need cams a little more left if I want to move my CS out a little.


----------



## SplitBrow189

*Mathews HALON 6 arrived for a review &gt;&gt;--------&gt;*



ontarget7 said:


> Here are my final results after testing a view different options.
> 
> Factory settings cam in with top hat bushings, large on right side for both top and bottom cam.
> 
> I ended up with only changing the top to small top hat spacer on right. This gave me the best centershot location at 13/16.
> 
> Now to get clean vertical nock travel and cams hitting at the same time, I ended up having the arrow running higher in the Berger hole and it is sitting perfectly nock level.
> 
> The 13/16 centershot with the top hat bushing, small to the right on this bow made the arrow running perfectly parallel with the side of the riser. It also put the top cable stop within reason of landing on the felt and not towards the outer edge of the cable stop.
> 
> 
> 
> Grip is very neutral, no real knuckles towards the target or back to you. The new grip is very comfortable and repeatable. It does not like a low wrist grip and more high in the throat where the webbing is between the index finger and thumb. When you go low wrist / heel of the hand it will create a tail high effect and we cause you to have cams not hitting at the same time.
> 
> Bareshafts at 20 yards are on the money and very repeatable with great consistency.
> 
> Here are a few pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am well aware that most won't go through these steps to get optimal results. Personally for me, I can't see not taking these steps. It gives you the most forgiving flight and a fair assessment of what the bow is capable of. Now it's just up to the archer to do their part.
> 
> Hope this gives you a good understanding of some of the ins and outs you might encounter.


When you say, "to get clean vertical nock travel" can you explain? How do i go about checking that? Cause right now my halon is tuning a bit nock high


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----------



## Sivart

tag


----------



## Putt4Doe

SplitBrow189 said:


> When you say, "to get clean vertical nock travel" can you explain? How do i go about checking that? Cause right now my halon is tuning a bit nock high
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think the key is to start with the arrow running through the upper part of the Berger hole at 90*, cams hitting dead nuts, and making fine tuned adjustments from there - is that correct Shane? 

Great info in this thread. Thanks for your time and work on it. 

Any update on the video? I'd love to check it out!


----------



## ontarget7

*Mathews HALON 6 arrived for a review &gt;&gt;--------&gt;*



Putt4Doe said:


> I think the key is to start with the arrow running through the upper part of the Berger hole at 90*, cams hitting dead nuts, and making fine tuned adjustments from there - is that correct Shane?
> 
> Great info in this thread. Thanks for your time and work on it.
> 
> Any update on the video? I'd love to check it out!


Yes, sir
That would be correct 

Sorry, Huntin Fool dropped the ball on that video

Always welcome, my friend
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----------



## TAIL~~CHASER

Putt4Doe said:


> I think the key is to start with the arrow running through the upper part of the Berger hole at 90*, cams hitting dead nuts, and making fine tuned adjustments from there - is that correct Shane?
> 
> Great info in this thread. Thanks for your time and work on it.
> 
> Any update on the video? I'd love to check it out!


A bow with aggressive cams when shot the nock will start on the string when shot half way through the shot the nock will travel up slightly then back down before it leaves the string. He tinkered the set up to minimize this nock travel to get it as level as possible from time of release to the nock left the string. Basically trying to take the hump out of the cycle.


----------



## TAIL~~CHASER

TAIL~~CHASER said:


> A bow with aggressive cams when shot the nock will start on the string when shot half way through the shot the nock will travel up slightly then back down before it leaves the string. He tinkered the set up to minimize this nock travel to get it as level as possible from time of release to the nock left the string. Basically trying to take the hump out of the cycle.


Is this what you're trying to achieve Shane?


----------



## ontarget7

TAIL~~CHASER said:


> Is this what you're trying to achieve Shane?


Clean vertical nock travel

Sometimes this will mean one cam slightly ahead of the other, just depends on the cam system and bow in question 


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----------



## TAIL~~CHASER

Besides the result of the shafts in the target are you still tinkering with slow motion video. I like using the slow motion vids. Picked that up from you bro[emoji109]


----------



## ontarget7

TAIL~~CHASER said:


> Besides the result of the shafts in the target are you still tinkering with slow motion video. I like using the slow motion vids. Picked that up from you bro[emoji109]


I don't have the access to the really high speed stuff and it's expensive. Not really worth it from the results I get to be honest. 

Glad it's been helpful [emoji1363]


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----------



## Putt4Doe

ontarget7 said:


> Yes, sir
> That would be correct
> 
> Sorry, Huntin Fool dropped the ball on that video
> 
> Always welcome, my friend
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


[emoji1303][emoji1306] thanks Shane- you're the man!


----------



## SplitBrow189

TAIL~~CHASER said:


> Is this what you're trying to achieve Shane?


But how exactly does someone go about figuring this out? Trial and error with nock point and bare shafts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TAIL~~CHASER

SplitBrow189 said:


> But how exactly does someone go about figuring this out? Trial and error with nock point and bare shafts?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Put a horizontal line up and shoot one arrow off the wall. Then creep a little on the second shot, both should hit the line. If not you have vertical nock travel.


----------



## TAIL~~CHASER

SplitBrow189 said:


> But how exactly does someone go about figuring this out? Trial and error with nock point and bare shafts?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That would be dynamic.
A shelf laser could be used, but dynamic is the real deal.


----------



## TAIL~~CHASER

Sorry Shane... Not meant to Jak your thread.. carry on guys👍


----------



## SplitBrow189

Ahh ok that makes sense


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----------



## SplitBrow189

Theres so much that goes into all of this [emoji457]


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----------



## GoldtipXT

ontarget7 said:


> I'm not even upset and feel I have answered all the questions that have been asked, Chief [emoji6].
> 
> One last time because I honestly don't have time to repeat this over and over again, so if you don't get it, my apologies.
> 
> You can manipulate cam synch by d loop position or how you hold a bow, low wrist, high wrist etc. the objective is to have cams hitting for at the same time and this bow by design is intended to be nock level. If I changed the arrow running through the Berger hole, lowering the d loop and keeping it nock level, I would change the position your pulling from, thus changing cam synch.
> This happens all the time and nothing out of the ordinary. Maybe it is not widely known and the reason for the misunderstanding


If *"You can manipulate cam synch by d loop position or how you hold a bow, low wrist, high wrist etc."* then whats the purpose of a drawboard if the way I hold the bow can't duplicate the drawboard? 

According to the *DRAW BOARD* my cams are in time with the arrow level and running straight thru the berger hole and I get a low tear. When I raised the rest and loop to get the arrow level, I re-timed the cams and the rest and got the same results. Now if I set it up 1/4" high it shoots lights out. I may not be a pro shooter but I have over 20yrs experience and good form. Bow is going to a different pro shop to be put thru a hooter shooter and chronoed because the bow feels slower than my Z7E that draws 3lbs more at same draw length shooting the same arrow. 

Side note, at full draw I have 2" of arrow in front of prongs on the Z7E and 3+ with Halon due to the riser thickness. 
Halon 62#'s
29.5" draw
CX Blue Streaks 350

Z7E 65#'s
29.5" draw
CX Blue Streaks 350


----------



## Buckbadger

GoldtipXT said:


> If *"You can manipulate cam synch by d loop position or how you hold a bow, low wrist, high wrist etc."* then whats the purpose of a drawboard if the way I hold the bow can't duplicate the drawboard?


I often wondered this too, and think most of us might be better off setting stops just by feel when drawing the bow or having someone watch them as you draw?


----------



## whack n stack

The Halon 32 (6) is my "bow of the year".

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Sivart

Can I ask, why do you prefer it over the H32 7.


----------



## ontarget7

GoldtipXT said:


> If *"You can manipulate cam synch by d loop position or how you hold a bow, low wrist, high wrist etc."* then whats the purpose of a drawboard if the way I hold the bow can't duplicate the drawboard?


You can tune bows without a drawboard with zero issues if you no what to look for. 

A drawboard is a starting position and when you do enough bows of the same models you will find it very repeatable in regards to cam synch and where to start your base tune settings from. 

There is very little change in cam synch from a high to medium wrist grip. Now if your one to dig your heel into the grip you may find a little more change from drawboard to actual shooting but even then your only talking 1/16 or so difference on average. 

In reference to clean vertical nock travel it will always be a balance of rest height position and cam synch that needs to coincide with one another. When one is to far off from the other you will not have clean vertical nock travel. 

A drawboard is simply a more accurate way to convey cam synch settings. Without it you would just be guessing as to cam synch settings. 



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----------



## GoldtipXT

ontarget7 said:


> You can tune bows without a drawboard with zero issues if you no what to look for.
> 
> A drawboard is a starting position and when you do enough bows of the same models you will find it very repeatable in regards to cam synch and where to start your base tune settings from.
> 
> There is very little change in cam synch from a high to medium wrist grip. Now if your one to dig your heel into the grip you may find a little more change from drawboard to actual shooting but even then your only talking 1/16 or so difference on average.
> 
> In reference to clean vertical nock travel it will always be a balance of rest height position and cam synch that needs to coincide with one another. When one is to far off from the other you will not have clean vertical nock travel.
> 
> A drawboard is simply a more accurate way to convey cam synch settings. Without it you would just be guessing as to cam synch settings.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks, that makes sense. I've tuned many solocams and this is my first attempt on a duel cam bow and I'm failing. Only improvement with a level arrow I got thru paper and down range with a bare shaft was when I took a half turn out of my lower limb. Also when I did that I didn't put on the board to check timing. If the pro shop can't get me right then the bow is going back to Mathews so they can check the deflection on the limbs. Personally I think I have a weak limb because this isn't rocket science.


----------



## whack n stack

GoldtipXT said:


> If *"You can manipulate cam synch by d loop position or how you hold a bow, low wrist, high wrist etc."* then whats the purpose of a drawboard if the way I hold the bow can't duplicate the drawboard?
> 
> According to the *DRAW BOARD* my cams are in time with the arrow level and running straight thru the berger hole and I get a low tear. When I raised the rest and loop to get the arrow level, I re-timed the cams and the rest and got the same results. Now if I set it up 1/4" high it shoots lights out. I may not be a pro shooter but I have over 20yrs experience and good form. Bow is going to a different pro shop to be put thru a hooter shooter and chronoed because the bow feels slower than my Z7E that draws 3lbs more at same draw length shooting the same arrow.
> 
> Side note, at full draw I have 2" of arrow in front of prongs on the Z7E and 3+ with Halon due to the riser thickness.
> Halon 62#'s
> 29.5" draw
> CX Blue Streaks 350
> 
> Z7E 65#'s
> 29.5" draw
> CX Blue Streaks 350


A very simple way to fix a low tear on any Halon, is to remove the bottom monkey tail. If that doesn't give you good vertical nock travel, take the top one off as well.

I just finished up one doing this. Perfect bare shafts and arrow flight. 

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----------



## GoldtipXT

whack n stack said:


> A very simple way to fix a low tear on any Halon, is to remove the bottom monkey tail. If that doesn't give you good vertical nock travel, take the top one off as well.
> 
> I just finished up one doing this. Perfect bare shafts and arrow flight.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


That'll be sick if it works. I'll test this later in the week.


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## whack n stack

GoldtipXT said:


> That'll be sick if it works. I'll test this later in the week.


I had a horrible nock low tear myself. This fixed it 100%. 

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## ontarget7

Or you can add another speed nock


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## GoldtipXT

ontarget7 said:


> Or you can add another speed nock
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Below current speed nocks or above them? To be clear, speed nocks closer to bottom cam correct? I'd be adding weight to the string but we're calling them speed nocks so should I expect to increase speed or lose speed? Have you tried this?


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## dayhunt85

Tagged

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## basshawg42

Shane thanks for all your work and info. I can't do what you do, but I enjoy reading and learning. I just bought a Halon 32 and couldn't get a repeatable POI, and learned it was b/c of my grip which you showed very well. Thanks again.


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## escorza88

Following


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## ontarget7

basshawg42 said:


> Shane thanks for all your work and info. I can't do what you do, but I enjoy reading and learning. I just bought a Halon 32 and couldn't get a repeatable POI, and learned it was b/c of my grip which you showed very well. Thanks again.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Your welcome

Don't say you can't 
I was in your shoes at one point so I believe you can 



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## arctic hunter

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