# arrows keep hitting the target nock down



## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

I assume that your points are landing in or close to the X, but the back end of your arrow is pointed down?

Things to check are nock height, cam timing and stiffness of your launcher blade (if you use one).

You might also check nock travel. Nock travel while drawing is not the same as during a shot, but it can tell you if it's off by a significant amount. 

Usually, when you have sufficient fletching, the arrow has recovered from any mis-tune and is flying straight by about 15 yards. Since you still have a low nock at 20 yards, you may not have enough fletching. 

Of course, if all of your arrows are hitting where they are supposed to, don't worry about them pointing down a little. 

How do your unfletched (bare) shafts group compared to your fletched shafts?

Allen


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## macnimation (Nov 30, 2010)

Hi,

thanks for the reply,
I'll try the bare shaft test on Wednesday.
I get different advice at the the club which also confuses me. I want to get back to the stage of concentrating on shooting rather than wondering if the setup is correct all the time.

I was using .010 narrow blades, but last week switched to the .012 blade, but still the same result. The Protours are 410 gn

I'm told to raise the nock, but at 1/8 inch already is that not high enough? Others say the nock should be at 90 deg to the rest on a Hoyt......


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Usually the 0.012 blade is too stiff for an arrow as light as your Pro Tours, especially if you use a back-up plate. If you have one, you might try a 0.008 blade. The 0.012 is probably good for your X7's but that would depend on which X's, point weight, length, etc.

It's no surprise that you get different opinions. There is a lot going on when an arrow is shot from a compound bow and it's too fast to see it without a high speed camera. Even people who have been successfully tuning bows for years don't always understand everything. I'm not the most knowledgeable bow tuner on earth, but you would be surprised at some of the ideas that I hear from people who should know better. 

One other thing you might try is to powder test your arrows. Spray the bottom of the arrow with powder, shoot it and see if the arrow stays on the blade or gets up off of it at some point. When you buy the spray foot powder, be sure NOT to get the stuff that drys clear.  

1/8" is a good starting point for tuning an arrow, but not always where it ends up. Sometimes the nock is low, but reads high when shot through paper because the arrow is bouncing off of the launcher blade. 

I see that you use 3.75" fletching for your X7's. If you do your own fletching, you might experiment with longer, taller and/or more vanes. When an arrow is not flying perfectly straight after about 15 yards, it's sometimes due to insufficient fletching. 

Allen


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## mike 66 (Jan 21, 2010)

put a bow square on it , check it . and paper tune itim guessing the string moved some...


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## wisetech (Nov 14, 2008)

sounds to me like the cam timing is out, if the nock point is about in the right place check your cam timing. bare shaft is old school for finger shooters not compound release shooters. make sure your fletch is not hitting the rest, either powder spray or lipstick on the fletch to see if it makes contact. Other thing make sure your form is good, bow hand correct, release arm in line and level with arrow, if it's not right it can effect the arrow flight.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

wisetech said:


> .... bare shaft is old school for finger shooters not compound release shooters....


With all due respect, bare shaft tuning in at least two forms is at least as effective for compound release shooter as paper tuning. 

I do agree with your advice on cam timing and form.

Allen


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