# bow tuning problems help!!!!!!!!



## Bowsniper100 (Jul 28, 2012)

Have you shot in your new string/cable? Check on your specs. & cam Timing


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## buckshot97 (Jul 19, 2012)

my cam timing is back in where it is supose to be it was out of time a little bit but shot great idk if its because it got faster they are not shooting right or what.


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## buckshot97 (Jul 19, 2012)

anyone have any ideas on what to do.


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## threetoe (May 13, 2011)

Re-tune...start from scratch


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## buckshot97 (Jul 19, 2012)

how do i start from scratch?


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## scottparker (Mar 31, 2006)

There are to many variables when changing strings/cables to expect everything to be exactly as they were before. You have to re-tune the bow. You'll need to paper tune to set nock height and centershot to start, then walk back tune or broad head tune. I suggest you check out the Easton tuning guide that's a sticky on this page or visit your local bow shop to let them help you with the process.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## buckshot97 (Jul 19, 2012)

what do you use to paper tune


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## buckshot97 (Jul 19, 2012)

I did every thing in my power to tune this bow I made the centershot and vertical adjust. sighted it in and bare shaft tune out to 15 yards still cant get the broadhead to tune in.


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## Bowsniper100 (Jul 28, 2012)

Make sure ata is at spec as well as cam timing marks, new strings will stretch. You have to shoot 50-100 shots, measure, twist string/cables, shoot 50 more, measure...until it quits stretching. When it stopped moving, get everything in spec, then start tuning,paper, walk back, lastly broad head tune. 
I'm not a bow tech but someone recently helped me with my new strings/cable. Now my broad heads are cutting the vanes of my field tips! I'm stoked!!!


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

Bowsniper100 said:


> new strings will stretch. You have to shoot 50-100 shots, measure, twist string/cables, shoot 50 more, measure...until it quits stretching. !!!


not true at all!!! unless you get crappy built strings that builders dont stretch during build. you only need to shoot some arrows to get it all settled in. 60x strings are built well and pre-stretched so they dont stretch after installed. difference between settling in on bow and stretching..


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

buckshot97 said:


> just got new 60x strings and cables on my bow and my broadheads are not hitting where they should be I do not know what is happen ing please help me.:angry:


all bow equipment, arrows, bhs everything the same before string change???? was bow shooting FP and BH all dead nuts on all yardages before string swap???


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

buckshot97 said:


> just got new 60x strings and cables on my bow and my broadheads are not hitting where they should be I do not know what is happen ing please help me.:angry:



COULD be the buss cable legs need adjustment (twisted shorter on one side...twisted longer on the other side.

COULD be a draw length issue. 
If the bow DL setting is just plain too long, then your elbow is OUT of alignment...
not directly in-line behind your arrow, when at full draw.


*STEP by STEP Procedure to...TUNE SIGHT PINS WINDAGE...and...ARROW REST CENTERSHOT...and...SIDEWAYS NOCK TRAVEL ON THE BOWSTRING...and...BOW DL SETTING*

*THE "KITCHEN SINK" METHOD.*


I have a combo method that checks:

a) draw length setting on the bow
b) arrow rest centershot position
c) sight pins windage position
d) top cam/top axle levelling (fix/check sideways nock travel).


*STEP 1:*

So,
hang a spool of string or any string with a weight on the end,
in front of a target.

Step back 5 feet.
Fire a fletched arrow at the string.
Tweak the sight pins windage a skosh left...a skosh right,
until the fletched arrow TOUCHES or even SPLITS the string material.

You should get this result.




















Then,
we goto the next stage.

Step back 5 feet,
and try again with a bareshaft (arrow with no vanes).

You should get this result.




















If you are a RIGHT HANDED shooter
and
the bareshaft misses to the RIGHT of the string...


*STEP 2:*

Press your bow
and shorten the LEFT SIDE buss cable leg say 1 complete twist
and lengthen the RIGHT SIDE buss cable leg say 1 complete twist
and fire a bareshaft again at the hanging string in front of the target...

the bareshaft point of impact should MOVE CLOSER TO THE STRING...

repeat the shortening of the LEFT SIDE buss cable leg with another complete twist (ADD)
and
repeat the lengthening of the RIGHT SIDE buss cable leg with another complete twist (REMOVE)

*STEP 3:*

IF THE BARESHAFT POINT OF IMPACT DOES NOT MOVE CLOSER TO THE STRING...
IF THE BARESHAFT POINT OF IMPACT DOES NOT CHANGE...
IF THE BARESHAFT POINT OF IMPACT STAYS OFF TO THE RIGHT...

THEN WE HAVE A DRAW LENGTH PROBLEM....ABSOLUTELY NO QUESTION
cuz your elbow is too far back
cuz your elbow is behind your head
instead of DIRECTLY behind the arrow...in line behind the arrow

so,
when the elbow is BEHIND YOUR HEAD, 
your release forearm is pointed OFF TO THE RIGHT,
and
your release forearm pulls the bowstring sideways (FAMOUS LEFT PAPER TEAR for right handed shooters)
and
when we have a nock left paper tear,
cuz the bowstring is pulled sideways to the LEFT,
cuz your forearm is pointed off to the right,
then...

the bareshaft goes whereever your forearm is pointed
and the bareshaft misses sideways to the RIGHT of the string.


So if STEP 2 (buss cable leg tuning) has ZERO EFFECT,
we must goto 

*STEP 4.*

SHORTEN the bow DL setting.

Now,
you might need to shorten the bow DL setting a complete 1/2 inch (new module).

Now,
you might need to shorten the bow DL setting less than a complete module replacement...

maybe you need to shorten the bow DL setting only 1/8th inch....maybe only 1/4-inch.

HOW do you shorten a bow DL setting in-between module sizes?...less than 1/2-inch?

FIND the bottom of the buss cable (cable with 3 end loops) and REMOVE twists to INCREASE ATA
and the bow DL will shorten. As you continue to UNTWIST the buss cable, the ATA continues to grow
and the bow DL will continue to shorten.

Keep tweaking the buss cable LONGER, until the bareshaft hits the string, like this...




















So,
stay at 5 feet
and fire fletched arrows at the string
and
fire bare shaft arrows at the string
until both fletched and bareshaft hit the string.


When firing fletched arrows at the string (tweak the sight pins windage)...to adjust
when firing bareshafts at the string...work the buss cable (bottom of the buss cable to make LARGE adjustments for point of impact....missing RIGHT by inches)
when firing bareshafts at the string...work the buss cable legs (shorten left side leg when missing right of the string by tiny amounts IF YOU ARE a RH shooter).


Soon,
your fletched arrows will be touching the string.

Soon,
your bareshafts will also touch the string.

*STEP 5*

The final half of MODIFIED FRENCH TUNING.


Goto any CONVENIENT longer distance...anything longer than 5 feet.
Might be 10 feet.
Might be 19 feet.
Might be 14 yards.
Might be 20 yards.
Might be 60 yards.

Of course the LONGER the better,
but even 19 feet is better than nothing.


Fire fletched arrow groups at a bullseye.
ONLY ADJUST THE ARROW REST, when shooting the convenient LONG RANGE distance.
The goal is to get the arrow group CENTERED around the bullseye.

ARROW GROUP missing LEFT of the bullseye? MOVE arrow rest slightly right.
ARROW GROUP missing RIGHT of the bullseye? MOVE arrow rest slightly left....like driving a car.

TWEAK THE ARROW REST to get the arrow group CENTERED around the LONG DISTANCE bullseye.
Whatever convenient LONG DISTANCE is available to you.

Then,

STEP 6:

Repeat shooting the fletched arrow at the string at 5 FEET.
We want to touch or SPLIT the string.

Might need to MICRO ADJUSt the sight pins windage...this is a fine tuning adjustment.
SPLIT the string fibers at 5 feet. BE PICKY. EACH adjustment we make, we get a tiny bit CLOSER to perfect.


REPEAT STEP 5

LONG RANGE arrow groups at a bullseye.
MICRO adjust the arrow rest to get the arrow group perfectly CENTERED around your bullseye.

REPEAT STEP 6 again.
REPEAT STEP 5 again.

REPEAT STEP 6 again.
REPEAT STEP 5 again.

REPEAT STEP 6 again.
REPEAT STEP 5 again.

You get the idea.

EACH cycle of step 6, then step 5...

maybe the first cycle, 
we adjust the sight pins...1/8th-inch
we adjust the arrow rest...1/8th-inch...

and then,
maybe the second cycle, 
we adjust the sight pins...1/16th-inch
we adjust the arrow rest...1/16th-inch...

and then,
maybe the third cycle, 
we adjust the sight pins...1/32nd-inch
we adjust the arrow rest...1/32nd-inch...

and then,
maybe the 4th cycle, 
we adjust the sight pins...1/64th-inch
we adjust the arrow rest...1/64th-inch...

you get the idea.

You decide how many cycles you want to try.

EACH cycle is a smaller and smaller adjustment.

You decide how TIGHT you want your groups.


Of course,
for each cycle of adjustment...

adjust only as much as you need....

just be picky,
and get the sight pins windage adjusted for short range, point blank distance shooting,
and hit the string or split the string fibers.

Shoot the longest distance you are comfortable with, say 40 yards,
and get the fletched arrows forming a group, a circle of arrows where the group of arrows are PERFECTLY centered around the bullseye.

Repeat this cycle,
with finer and finer adjustments to the sight pins windage (at only 5 feet)
and
with fine and finer adjustments to the arrow rest horizontal position (at the longest distance you can be consistent with arrow group size).


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## buckshot97 (Jul 19, 2012)

I caqnt shoot to find out till morning but I got the ata back on it was at 31 1/2 and I got it back to 31 1/4 I hope that helps I twisted the y cable until it got into that ata.


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## juancurbina (Mar 24, 2011)

Start with the simplest part. You installed a new D loop. Check with a level to see if it is at the correct height. Also, assuming you changed the rest, make sure your fletching is not touching the rest. Last thing, 25 bucks at the pro shop will save you the aggravation.


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## buckshot97 (Jul 19, 2012)

I did what nuts and bots told me to do and its good to get your centershot and your windage on your sight I did it all and still cant get the broad heads to hit good.


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## buckshot97 (Jul 19, 2012)

its official I am giving up with the 3 blade and I am going to the 4 blade that seem to be flying way better. the only other thing I can think of doing is geting 4 inch fletchings and try them and see if that will work on them if not muzzy 4 blade is fine.


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## threetoe (May 13, 2011)

Nuts & Bolts...you are my hero!!

LISTEN TO HIM ALL AND FOLLOW HIS STEP BY STEP APPROACH.


I've got this bow of mine tuned better than a Rock Guitar and my scores reflect it. Your missive on tuning is priceless and you give your work and experience to others at no charge. That makes you TOPS in my book.


FYI..
After tuning to your method, the second year of my Archery career, I shot all 6 of our clubs "Mini-3-D" Tournaments. Out of over 90 in my class (BHFS) I was one of only three to eclipse the 1000 point mark. I scored 1170. The first place guy got 1258 and second got 1212. The tune of the bow is so important. My form was the same but now I'm shooting a laser beam.
Thanks

Bill


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## buckshot97 (Jul 19, 2012)

can your draw length being to short give you the same problem because now its to short.


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## buckshot97 (Jul 19, 2012)

I did the tuning thing that nuts and bolts showed it did help the accuracy of the fp but my broadheads still aint flying I know for sure that I am not hunting with them this year but the muzzy 4 blade is good so Im going to experiment alittle.


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## andrew07 (Aug 2, 2007)

buckshot97 said:


> I did the tuning thing that nuts and bolts showed it did help the accuracy of the fp but my broadheads still aint flying I know for sure that I am not hunting with them this year but the muzzy 4 blade is good so Im going to experiment alittle.


Have you spin tested all of your arrows?


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## Morley (Aug 16, 2012)

You need to go tubeless?


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## buckshot97 (Jul 19, 2012)

Morley said:


> You need to go tubeless?


lmao:wink:


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## buckshot97 (Jul 19, 2012)

I solved the problem my broadhead was wobling so I put a new one on and shot and its right with the fp. Thank the lord:rock-on:


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## Morley (Aug 16, 2012)

I am reading alot of people are having trouble with broadheads being true. Is this actually a common thing? Will the merchants give you a hard time if you want to return them?

~M


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## buckshot97 (Jul 19, 2012)

Morley said:


> I am reading alot of people are having trouble with broadheads being true. Is this actually a common thing? Will the merchants give you a hard time if you want to return them?
> 
> ~M


if the head isnt spinning true then its imposible to bh tune the bow. what heads are you having trouble with? the stores do not mind it Ive sent back expandables one time and asked for a six pack of muzzy 100 and they did it no problem.


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## Morley (Aug 16, 2012)

None. I haven't purchased any broadheads yet. I was just wondering if I would be seeing any issues like this. You know, is the wobble a common problem?

~M


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## buckshot97 (Jul 19, 2012)

yeah its common but it was my own stupidity for not checking to see if there is any woble in the first place, oh well I do get a bow that is tuned to the t because of it. most fixed blade broadheads do not have a woble right off the bat but progresivly get it from the ferils bending on the head but I still reconmend muzzy all the way because of how dependable they are a close second would be slick tricks.


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