# Bare Shafting



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

yo1maniac said:


> Hey, I got a question? I am shooting a Mathews Conquet 2, set up for Freestyle Limited. Being a finger shooter, I am a die hard, when it comes to bare shafting. My delima is, when bare shafting, my left and right is perfectly straight. I can't seem to get rid of the nock high kick! I am shooting 2712's, 31 inches, 300 gr. tips, 4 in. feathers. My draw length is27 3/4, draw weight is 51#. The bare shaft groups real nice, the fletched shaft groups real nice, The bare shaft hits three inches low, dead center everytime. In all my bare shafting days, I' been pretty successful in getting fletched and bare shafts shooting real close together, but not this time! I have tried everything I know to do, with moving my arrow rest up or down. Could it be the heavy tips? Help! Thanks, Adios, DB.


Hello DB:

Your estimated arrow speed is 137.5 fps.

This is EXTREMELY slow.

The arrow hits peak height about half way to the target.

So,
the arrow is headed downhill, when the arrow hits the 20 yard target face.

HUGE amount of weight up front.

Bareshaft is ALWAYS going to LOOK nock high,
due to the very slow arrow velocity.


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## hailwiz (Mar 24, 2007)

I agree to heavy on the front take a 100 off.....


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## rossing6 (Jun 7, 2008)

Brought this up a while back for someone else, but your arrows are so stiff you won't be able to break down the spine (or even come close) with your set up, so I would do two things, the first is if you are shooting a lizard tongue, or launcher style blade rest, the rest will always kick up the back of the arrow, it's the way it is with all bows, so couple that with that super slow flight you have-and it's a recipe for frustration...bareshafting...SO, if your groups are good, I'd recognize that your centershot and form is working so go with that and don't worry about the bareshaft hitting low, you've got a few things working against you there, OR I would get lighter arrows, for example Easton Full Bores are the same size, but carbon and their spine is .350 as compared to the .265 of the 2712's, so two things happen, first you'll get closer to the correct spine with a whole lot less tip weight, and the finish shaft will weight a lot less, and shoot faster, etc. Your arrow now is well over 600 grains, and so you might want to rethink your equipment matching...I bareshaft tune everything I have so I get bullet holes point blank, 5, 10, and 20 yds, French tune at point blank and 80 yds for the L/R fine tune, if any, and that has always been the most exact tuning method resulting in tighter groups and best spine reaction, but at your combination of style, DL, DW and arrow type, spine, and tune, you don't have it optimized for the best success...I'd stack every little thing in your favor if I was trying to improve things....Cheers, Ryan


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