# Arrow rest for recurve



## Dado

What are the arrow rests that top recurve shooters use?
I'm guessing Cavalier Free Flyte Elite would be a good choice, but would like to hear about other choices?


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## Mark Hedges

I am by no means a top shooter but I like the cavalier champion II rest.

Mark


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## SHADOW-MKII

I second the above. 

as recommended by G-tek


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## L_Loftis

I've used the Cavalier Free Flyte Elite for about 6 or 7 years now and have not had any problems with them. I like how simple it is to adjust. If you are going to shoot with a plunger it isn't to hard to take of that piece of metal on the side at all.


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## limbwalker

Actually, I don't know of any top shooters that use the Cav. free flyte elite rest. May be one or two, but I don't know who they are. Most of the top 5 or 6 U.S. archers I know are using ARE magnetic flipper rests or in the case of Vic, the Beiter rest. Butch was actually using a Russian made flipper rest for a while (not sure where he dug that one up, but I think it was pretty old). Other top shooters I've seen use Hoyt super rests or various magnetic flipper rests. I have a Cav. champion II on my fita barebow and like it real well, but my ARE's will remian on my Oly. recurves.

John.


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## Xcreekarchery1

i am 100% for my ARE flipper. is simle tuff and it looks good :embara: 
but the hoyt superrest is probably the most popular rest when i go out to the OTC


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## zal

Non-adjustable ARE ftw!


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## Steve N

I have a Cavalier Free Flyte Elite. Its a good rest, but I wouldn't spend the money on one again. Too many adjustments that I never use, and more set screws to make sure are tight. Next time I'd probably go with an ARE Magnetic, although this Cavalier will probably never wear out.

PS: I'm not a pro, just VERY far from one.


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## titanium man

The Spig ZT rest is a great choice, and as the initials indicate, it is Zero Tolerance, for a very reasonable price.


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## Dado

So, this ARE arrow rest; I couldn't find any, kinda hard to google with the word "are" and + LAS doesn't have them....


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## ButchD

*Are*

Try this link, listed under ASHAI.

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/product_info.php?cPath=40_116&products_id=1985


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## Brandeis_Archer

I've had the ARE Deluxe (w/o torque adjustment). Nice rest, indeed, but right now I'm shooting a Champion II and am happier with it. 
The magnets on the Champion II are opposing each other, instead of attracting. This means that the least pressure is placed on the arm when it is where it is supposed to be, and as it gets closer to the riser, more pressure is placed on it. Read that "No more rest arms stuck against the riser when you're in a tournament."


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## limbwalker

> Read that "No more rest arms stuck against the riser when you're in a tournament."


Actually, to be fair, my Champion II rest sticks against my riser 10X more often than my ARE ever has, simply due to the fact that when you use ultra-small diameter shafts like the Nano or X10, you have to put the wire arm as close as possible to the button to get the contact near the center. And when you do that, the wire arm wants to stick under the button. I live with it. Never seems to cause a problem with my ARE's though.

Another rest I strongly recommend, esp. for those starting out, is the good old super-durable Flipper II. Works just like an ARE or other magnetic flippers, but the bottom of the wire arm is enclosed and the wire arm itself is super stiff. I used to have one on my backup bow just because I knew nothing would ever happen to it. I had a student that used them for many years and still does, I believe. Excellent and very affordable rests.

John.


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## Brandeis_Archer

limbwalker said:


> Actually, to be fair, my Champion II rest sticks against my riser 10X more often than my ARE ever has, simply due to the fact that when you use ultra-small diameter shafts like the Nano or X10, you have to put the wire arm as close as possible to the button to get the contact near the center. And when you do that, the wire arm wants to stick under the button. I live with it. Never seems to cause a problem with my ARE's though.
> 
> Another rest I strongly recommend, esp. for those starting out, is the good old super-durable Flipper II. Works just like an ARE or other magnetic flippers, but the bottom of the wire arm is enclosed and the wire arm itself is super stiff. I used to have one on my backup bow just because I knew nothing would ever happen to it. I had a student that used them for many years and still does, I believe. Excellent and very affordable rests.
> 
> John.


Fair point, I've got my arrows a mm or two under the center of the button to avoid that.


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## Vittorio

Talking about rests we havev to talk now about... Exlim F1 Casio digital camera. 
Why? Because this camera with a resonable price and its 1200 fps movies allows everyone to see what happens to the rest to vanes relationship at release. 
And then, you will buy an ARE rest.....


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## Jim C

I like the basic ARE rests but when they break they are done and I have seen that happen a couple times. I have the Cavalier elites on my field bows because I can quickly change the wire if one breaks and recently I started using the cavalier stick on for the same reason. Don Rabska gave me some of those Russian rests noted above and yes, the work well too though the sticky tape on them is a bit marginal-once changed-they last a long time. 


Mark Applegate noted to my barebow shooting wife that for BB you want something with a long heavy wire like the Cavalier. Mark noted that when you string walk, such rests work better than say ones with little arms like the ARE basic or the Hoyt "super rest".


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## voxito

Jim C said:


> I like the basic ARE rests but when they break they are done and I have seen that happen a couple times


Same experience here and if you do perhaps break a free flyte elite I think you probably did something wrong... 

To me the best part of the free flyte elite is that you can take the rest off the bow with a single bolt to make adjustments. I take off the block that has all of the adjustments and can hold it in my hand, without my aerotec's bar in the way, to make my adjustments and these adjustments are practically infinite. THe wire is also easily removed and can bent with pliers and you can achieve the exact perfect angle in relation to how it contacts the shaft.


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## Jim C

voxito said:


> Same experience here and if you do perhaps break a free flyte elite I think you probably did something wrong...
> 
> To me the best part of the free flyte elite is that you can take the rest off the bow with a single bolt to make adjustments. I take off the block that has all of the adjustments and can hold it in my hand, without my aerotec's bar in the way, to make my adjustments and these adjustments are practically infinite. THe wire is also easily removed and can bent with pliers and you can achieve the exact perfect angle in relation to how it contacts the shaft.


oh I have seen an elite wire break-a hundred thousand shots (about 3 years of shooting) did it. I have seen someone break one when another shooter at MSU caught their finger sling on the wire and yanked it off (cost the woman in question a probably USAT position that year cuz she didn't notice her rest wire was messed up and she lost 20 points when her next two arrows missed )

I had a bb shooter bust his ARE at Casteel's national field in 04 the same way-this was one of the adjustable ones-I took the wire off of my backup only to later find LAS didn't sell the replacement wires which sort of sucked (and is another reason I buy the cavaliers now)


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## voxito

i wasn't saying it couldn't happen, but you gotta be pretty hard on your setup. I've abused mine more than necessary and they took it, something I couldn't say for my golden keys, ares, and terrys. 

I also got my finger sling caught on it when I was putting it back in the stand. The bow and the stand then proceeded to follow me to my chair... embarassing but not a piece came loose


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## target1

I bought a bieter, still haven't put it on. I just can't figure out how to properly set it up. Is it just me, maybe I'm just dumb.


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## Dado

So, what is everyone's opinion on reversible magnet function on Free Flyte Elite? Does it really help?
Durability wise I've had one, used it for 2 years on a compound (well over #50), and after that it kept being used on one of the club's bows. Seems hard to destroy one of those arms... I just wonder then, why no pros use it?


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## Jason22

I've been very impressed with my magnetic adjustable ARE. I can adjust it between skinny and fat arrows easily and if you have a backup you can change the wire without removing the rest plate.


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## ewan

Vittorio said:


> Talking about rests we havev to talk now about... Exlim F1 Casio digital camera.
> Why? Because this camera with a resonable price and its 1200 fps movies allows everyone to see what happens to the rest to vanes relationship at release.
> And then, you will buy an ARE rest.....



By the way, Casio have released a more affordable Exilim, the EX-FC100, does 1000fps at 224x64, not as good as the EX-F1, but less than half the price (I got mine on Ebay for 350USD - won't be able to play with it till the end of the month though):

http://www.casio.com/products/Cameras/High_Speed_EXILIM/EX-FC100BK/

For example:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_uMXPj5L-J4&feature=related


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## Hank D Thoreau

I had ARE magnetic rests on all my bows (whole family) and really liked them. Unfortuanately, they did not hold up when I started string walking and now I use the much more rugged Champion II. I even have occassional trouble with the Champion II coming loose. Even though I feel I am shooting better now, I scored better with the ARE. It seemed to tolerate poor form better. If I was not string walking I would definitely be using the ARE.


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## limbwalker

> I just can't figure out how to properly set it up. Is it just me, maybe I'm just dumb


No, it's not just you. The darn thing is over-engineered. Earl Hoyt Jr. built essentially the same exact rest (in function) many years ago and it still sells for about $2.50. The Beiter rest is a solution for a problem that doesn't exist IMO...

Sorry. Just being honest.

Jason, that's the exact ARE rest I use on my competition bows. It's a great little rest.

John.


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## Dado

John, still not getting a reply why would free flyte elite not be a good recurve rest? Especially when magnet is flipped to pull the support arm in?


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## ewan

I've been using Cartel Xpert rests for the last few years - cheap, reliable, and they come in nice colours


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## limbwalker

Dado,

The free flyte rests are very good rests. Don't get me wrong. They have been used by some of the best archers in the U.S. over the years - and a few did reverse the magnets from what I understand. 

But - just because you can build a rest like that doesn't mean you need one. I'm am no fan of over-engineering what should be a VERY simple device. All a rest has to do is hold up an arrow for less than 2" of travel and not get in the way as the fletching clears. Like I said before, a $2.50 Hoyt Super Rest does this just fine. In fact, better than fine. A nail would do the same exact thing.

So, I prefer things that are simple and functional and with as few moving parts and screws as possible. So much less to worry about. Your bow already has enough screws on it that can come loose, and every shot vibrates the whole setup. Why would you want to put something on it that has the possibility of failing or failing to function?

John.


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## limbwalker

I'll add this...

There are a LOT of archers that enjoy the equipment side of this sport. They love to tinker, buy new things and debate the differences (or even argue which is better). That's part of the sport for them and they get as much enjoyment out of that (sometimes more) than shooting at an event. That's fine with me, but you simply don't see very many top archers doing this, or using equipment that is overly complicated. And once they find a combination that works for them, they usually don't deviate from that - even for many years. Most ametuers are constantly fiddling because they aren't skilled enough to tell if the difference they see is with the latest change in equipment, or because of the way they are shooting that day. So they keep fiddling. It's like a dog chasing his tail.

Look at Butch and Vic. They've been using basically the same stabilizers (in Vic's case - the exact same ones) for many, many years. Vic has been using the same risers and limbs ever since I've known him. Butch uses very simple equipment like a simple magnetic flipper rest and a plain metal aperture ring. Vic's aperture rings haven't changed since I've known him. Many of the Koreans use Hoyt Super Rests (and many European elite archers too) and very simple equipment. I even saw several pieces of rubber hose clamped on with hose clamps between the stabilizer and weights while I was in Athens. Some of those setups went on to medal. 

So this doesn't have to be a very complicated sport. In fact, I think it is better if it is not. Leaves the archer more time to focus on their form and training. And if you keep things the same long enough, you start to learn when it's just YOU that's not shooting particularly well, and you learn to understand WHY over time. That leads to the ability to adjust and fix yourself, instead of your equipment 

But some folks just like tinkering with neat toys. That's fine, but I seldom see them hoisting up trophies.

John.


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## Huntmaster

good thing you didn't say never


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## Dado

Ok John thanks for the reply. I'm just trying to help a very talented friend of mine that picked up a recurve no more than 4 months ago and is already shooting FITA 280 indoor (that's out of 30 arrows of course) with a cheap KAP prostyle bow, only #26 and other cheap stuff/arrows.
He wants to buy equipment of his own and we're trying to put every thing together. Since I don't know much about recurve stuff, and I used a free flyte back when I shoot fingers-compound I figured if that rest held up against #55 compound it could've be a perfect solution for a #40 recurve.
Ok, I'll probably ask some more questions later on if we get unsure what to go for.


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## massman

*What is the difference?*

what is the difference between the ARE Magnetic rest (as pictured in a prev post) and the Win & Win KAP magnetic rest?

They both seem to be similar designs except for the base plate. I've seen only 2 of the KAP rest fail in 5+ years of our JOAD program. Both times when the archer was shooting WAY OVER SPINED fat arrows,

I've found that you can easily trim the wire to get it just past the arrows center for clearance. So what is the difference?

BEST Regards,

Tom


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## Mark Hedges

I have used the kap rest but I quit using it because I felt the wire was too flimsy. It would bend and then not return without messing with it. 

The ARE rest looks like the same design so if it has a stiffer wire I bet it would work well. 

Mark


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## Vittorio

Rests make a difference when arrow clearance is NOT good. When it is good, all rests are the same.
Unfortunately, arrow clearance is not a constant, but it is many times subjected to the specific release action of that moment. It means that a so called "bad" release can make clearance critical and vanes touching the rest during their travel out of the window. 
When vanes touch the rest, the rest should make almost NO interference with the vanes, in order to avoid any influence on arrow flight, so it means its arm has to be as soft and as light as possible and move to the riser at the touch of a feather... In this, ARE rests have no comparison.
As far as vertical resistance is concerned, what you need is a strong aarm, with almost no flexion, in order to avoit its sensitivity again to a bad relase. If rest bend in the vertical axe too much in relationship to the release, tuning the system becomes very critical. So, you need a short and strong arm for this. 
As a consequence, you will priviledge the strenght of the arm in Bare Bow, were string walking makes reaction of the rest very critical on the vertical plane, and light arm in recurve, were vertical reaction is not very very critical.

The ideal rest is very strong in vertical, very soft in horizontal and has a very short arm. Yamaha original Flip rest was perfect, but is no more existing. Its Cartel and Ukrainian copies have a strong arm, but also have a too much strong return action. So, we go for ARE (those with short arm) for recurve and wrapping magnetic rests for Bare bow (but arm has to be bent in order to avoid clearance problems with them). 
THA2 will a have full chapter dedicated to "the secrets of the rests", but you will have to wait another year or so for it... :sad:


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## snowdoniafan

I just fitted the w&w bearing rest. Seems well made and solid, with a smooth (though not super light) action. Has a steep angle away from the riser, and will need cutting down if you don't want an overlap outside a carbon arrow. A practical drawback is that it is not height adjustable.

I think I used the old Yamaha flip on my Eolla in 1995 and remember it being excellent. Perhaps someone will remake it.


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## apostolis

I too have got the W&W new ball bearing rest which seems very solid and well made. No height adjustable in the minus side but arm is quite stiff in the plus side.

I am wondering why do you guys adjust the wire arm for carbon arrows, since it is always too long. Do you cut it or bend it? Bending of course runs the risk of breaking the arm, while if you cut you lose the ability to use thicker arrows and adjust the center shot.


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## jmvargas

....if you use only one size or similarly sized arrows on a set-up the hoyt super rest is hard to beat....if you do not have the luxury of multiple set-ups and use only one set-up for different arrow sizes, you would need an adjustable rest...... i only use only one arrow type and size(MK2 725s) for my outdoor set-ups and these have the hoyt super rest....i still experiment on arrows for my indoor set-up and this bow has the cavalier champion II......works fine for me..


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## Seattlepop

For the ARE rests, is there a good reason that I would not want the stiffest wire regardless of #? Is horizontal movement compromised if I choose the stiff wire and only hold 37#?

edit: Vittorio, when you say "short arm" are you referring to the thin arm which would answer my original question?


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## rreimer91

I noticed that there are a lot of ARE rests (ranging from $30 to $73) at Lancaster. Does anyone have recommendations on specific ARE rests? Is there a big difference in the more expensive ones?


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## midwayarcherywi

I shoot ARE rests and use the least expensive one for over 40# set ups. That would be the AM-105. Trim the wire to your set up needs. If you need to remove the rest after initial placement, they provide an additional adhesive backing...........or you can use 3M double sided exterior tape. I believe the tape was discussed in a different thread.


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## KaleJMU09

I shot the Cavalier Free Flyte elite for a long time. I would often have issues with the smaller adjustment screws coming loose. When I set up for outdoors I put on a KAP rest that I found in our coaches tool box. It seemed like it had the least amount of things that could break or come loose on it, and if something did break I would be able to put another one on quickly and easily and it wouldn't cost me much. So far its worked great.


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## Huntmaster

I swear I've heard SOOOOO many complaints about screws coming loose. I seriously wonder if everyone has a good handle on how to tighten a set screw into aluminum? Ever think it might be operator error?

The interesting thing is that allen wrenches come complete with a torque wrench. When the allen twists just a bit, it's tight (yes, they can flex some). 

Really folks, I've heard nothing but complaints about both PSE's limb alignment system, and the Cavalier rest. Funny thing is Miranda has both, and she's never had a single problem with either of them. Could it be two negatives make a positive? I don't think so.


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## KaleJMU09

Huntmaster said:


> I swear I've heard SOOOOO many complaints about screws coming loose. I seriously wonder if everyone has a good handle on how to tighten a set screw into aluminum? Ever think it might be operator error?


Hahaha it could be, but after it happening multiple times I made sure those things were pretty dang tight. Not saying its a bad rest, it worked well when I was using it. Just saying I got tired of that particular aspect of it.


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## engtee

I used a Cavalier Free Flyte Elite for about 5 years and only once had a screw come loose-and that was the screw holding it to the riser, along with the plunger. It was very solid and totally adjustable, but unnecessarily heavy and expensive. I now use the Cavalier Champion II and find it to be just as adjustable, lighter in weight, and considerably cheaper to buy. The only advantage in having the Free Flyte Elite is the ability to easily remove it from one bow and put it on another.


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## Greg Bouras

I like the adjustability of the Cavalier Free Flyte rest, however I have noticed significant vertical movement of the rest arm due to wear between the body and rest arm pin. That is the worst condition a rest can have. Granted I probably shoot a bit more than the average recreational archer and I have not put a drop of oil on the moving parts as part of cleaning or PM. If I cannot get the manufacturer to replace it (them actually) I’ll probably have it (them) machined and have oversized pins put in.

I used to shoot a Hoyt Super Rest but got upset with it one day when it fell off during a hard rain and was washed away by the ensuing floodwaters. In all honesty it had been on the bow for a few years and was still in great shape before the flood.

I could have had a dozen Hoyt Super Rests and a roll of the finest double stick tape for what I have into a shiny adjustable rest.


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## TheAncientOne

> I prefer things that are simple and functional and with as few moving parts and screws as possible.





> I shot the Cavalier Free Flyte elite for a long time. I would often have issues with the smaller adjustment screws coming loose.


I have a Cavalier Free Flyte Elite on a Hoyt Helix and a KAP magnetic rest on my Hoyt Aerotec (essentially the same riser without the vibration dampeners) The KAP shoots just as well as the Cavalier and is 1/8th the price. I solved the loosening screw issue on the Cavalier with a dab of clear nail polish. My wife somehow mangled her KAP rest, but I was able to straighten it out with a needle nose in about 30 seconds. I may try the ARE next time around.

TAO


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## Viper1

Guys -

Just a thought concerning flipper type rests. Except for the initial set up and tuning processes, I'm will to wager that most people couldn't tell the difference between any of the more common models out there (score wise). 

Viper1 out.


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## Not Sure

I hate any rest that sticks to the bow w/ adhesive tape. My riser goes in my Aurora City backpack and I was always having trouble with the wire snagging on the sleeve and the whole rest coming off. Not a problem when it wasn't hot out but even over time I'm assuming that it would start to creep and slip (off) while shooting.
The fact that adhesive can fail is the main reason why I switched to a Cavalier Free Flyte Elite. I didn't like spending the money but I wanted something that would last for many years. 

I was using an ARE and it was fine but it had all super tiny allen screws holding things down that I was worried that that something could come loose. They were so tiny that I had to really hunt down some driver bits that would work just to adjust the wire height for different diameter arrows.

The Cavalier is burly and the adjustment was no more difficult than the ARE (this is the specific one: http://www.lancasterarchery.com/product_info.php?cPath=40_116&products_id=1984 ) . I also love the magnet adjustment on the Cavalier where you can either have it push the wire out at whatever pressure you want or the opposite - when the arrow lifts up at shot time the rest wire will start to move inward on its own. 

I had the ARE that Jason22 posted and I had fletching tearing off on the back part of the wire that contacts with the magnet. I'm sure it was a matter of tuning but it seemed worse than it should have been. I retired that one as an emergency spare. Another thing that bothered me about that rest was the method of height adjustment. The phillips screw arrangement was....janky.

I agree with the pros here. If your arrows are tuned AND you don't flub your release and your form is set in granite then you should never have trouble with any sort of rest (assuming it doesn't fall off the bow).


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## mike323

I bee using the Cavalier Free Flyte Elite for +10 years and never fail on me. Once I set up the rest, I apply a few drop of threadlock on the screws and it not move.


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## caspian

Beiter rest. simple, adjustable, easily replaceable finger. just works.


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## profmom6

This is all great information. ARE is the best one though? Lancaste has about 7 offerings.

--Brandi


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## midwayarcherywi

As you can see, there are as many opinions as there are rests. ARE makes an excellent rest. They market adjustable and fixed flipper rests. They also have a rest for lighter weight set ups or higher weight bows. I think the break off is 40#, but don't hold me to it. I use the non adjustable type. It's easy enough to set up and modify, if need be.


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## Canjapan2003

I'm a top archer in my own mind and also an armchair product durability tester(I break stuff a lot ). 
I bought the spigarelli inox rest from alternative archery. It's got a really skookum look to it and is easy to adjust. It's way cheaper than the ARE rests too. Also if you want to trim the wire arm it can be taken off and replaced securely. I had one of the are when starting out and it was fine t
unroll it broke. Then I got one of the KAP half moon shaped rests and it wiggled all over the place on me. 

Just my inexpert thoughts. 

Oh I think someone at Beijing used one.


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## rasyad

Here is a brand new rest from Shibuya. I just ordered one for my Fiberbow. It looks really well made to me. Here is the link: http://www.shibuya-archery.com/rest_e.html

Rasyad


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## limbwalker

Kale,

I've learned not to question the Cavalier Free Flyte owners. They are indeed a eclectic group, and very loyal to their complicated, shiny toys...  

I agree with you. Simple is better. This is why I used a simple and inexpensive K&K magnetic flipper rest for years, or - even more simple - a Flipper II. Since '04, I've used ARE magnetic flipper rests. Very reliable and solid and simple.

The only Cavalier rest I use is their Champion II stick-on. I use it for my barebow target bows and occasionally on my indoor fita recurves. But for outdoors, I always use the ARE magnetic flippers. Best rest out there IMO.

However, I must admit I do like the looks of that new Shibuya rest. 

Fact is, it's hard to improve on the good 'ol $2.50 Hoyt Super rest. So anything that's much more expensive or complicated gets a critical eye from me.

John.


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## Lindy

*Arrow Rest for Recurve*

Not mentioned are the Spigarelli magnetic rests. 

I have used the Spigarelli Super Magnetic Recurve Rest for years. Reliable but pricey. I have never had a problem with the arm sticking. The rest can be easily adjusted up, down, right and left.

It is easily and securely mounted on my Win&Win riser.


Regards,


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## RunsUpRiver

I'm looking at the Cartel X-pert Arrow magnetic rest right now. http://www.lancasterarchery.com/product_info.php?products_id=10475 
Seems like everything a shooter would want. I've read that the return magnet can be too strong. Could a person clip off a little of the metal that gets pulled by the magnet? seems simple.. not too much, just enough there to trim a mm or so to reduce the pull.... then trim off any extra arrow support arm that isnt needed. Seems like the perfect rest  

Cartel X-Pert and Cartel Super Cushion Plunger- here I come?

There has been so much talk about the HOYT Super Rest I'm willing to try it. I've also seen the same rest listed as "OMP Super Rest", "Bear Paw Super Rest", "Big Super Rest", "Cartel Super Rest" and "PSE Super Rest". Are they all the same?

Does anyone have photos of how they mounted their Super Rests? Also, does the little upturned "flippy-do" cause any grief to the arrow? Seems like it would try and hold on too well during the shot.

Actually, any photos of any recurve rests set up would be beneficial for all on this thread. Anyone with a camera?

Are the Bow-Doodle rests ever used anymore? There were several that worked well for finger shooters. Is it legal in competition?

Lots of questions, lots of views- this is a good thread!

Thanks!

Dean


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## Jim C

I have used most of the rests mentioned or my students have. I think the basic ARE rest is excellent. However, you cannot replace the wire on it and they do break sometimes. On the ones that are adjustable, I could not find replacement wires (I learned this after giving someone a wire off my back up at the national field tournament several years ago after he broke his). I don't like the basic cavalier. I do like the big elite-they are solid and it is easy to change the wire and get the same tune exactly after an arm change but they are expensive. 

The cavalier two is what I am mostly using now because it is simpler and can easily be fixed if the wire breaks. If you set up a bow for one sized arrows the basic ARE is probably the way to go but for many of my JOADS who only have one bow and shoot aluminums indoors the adjustable jobs are needed.

The hoyt works well except they have the habit-especially with kids-of breaking at the worst time (last round of practice for example for one kid from Columbus at our state shoot) and its a pain to scrape the gooey adhesive off in a hurry and try to get the replacement quickly in place


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## Xcreekarchery1

on my indoor bow i have one of the Cavilier free flyte eletes because of fat arrows, i had to take off my hoyt superrest to get it on though  its a good solid rest but then again, you dont need all of the stuff on there or so ive found.

My favorite rest is a hoyt superrest, i have had the same one on my outdoor bow for almost 6 months shooting average 200 arrows a day. It has lasted ALOT longer than i thought it would and its showing no signs of wear. so my vote goes straight to the superrest 

Chris


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## Jim C

Xcreekarchery1 said:


> on my indoor bow i have one of the Cavilier free flyte eletes because of fat arrows, i had to take off my hoyt superrest to get it on though  its a good solid rest but then again, you dont need all of the stuff on there or so ive found.
> 
> My favorite rest is a hoyt superrest, i have had the same one on my outdoor bow for almost 6 months shooting average 200 arrows a day. It has lasted ALOT longer than i thought it would and its showing no signs of wear. so my vote goes straight to the superrest
> 
> Chris


you probably have a better tune and technique than 90% of those on the board. You also have a back up bow I assume. I just found changing a superrest out in the middle of a round to be a pain so that is why I avoid using them on the students bows who are competing alot


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## Floxter

I'm a stringwalker like Hank and after having two AREs in succession break a wire which isn't replaceable, I've switched to a Cavalier Champion II on one bow and a simple Spigarelli Spigarest II on another bow. Each have held up equally well, with the Cavalier having adjustment features that the Spigarest doesn't. On my hunting recurve I have an old time NAP Flipperrest II which unfortunately is no longer available, but works great for me.


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## SBills

Another vote for the Cavalier champion II rest. I shoot barebow and it is tough as nails.


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## Big.Dave

rasyad said:


> Here is a brand new rest from Shibuya. I just ordered one for my Fiberbow. It looks really well made to me. Here is the link: http://www.shibuya-archery.com/rest_e.html
> 
> Rasyad


These are selling like hot cakes in the UK:thumbs_up


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## richardfrog

It would be a good idea to have a hoyt super rest or something not perfect to train, and when it is time to win medals, use AREs, since the rough rest makes you work harder on the form.


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## Progen

richardfrog said:


> It would be a good idea to have a hoyt super rest or something not perfect to train, and when it is time to win medals, use AREs, *since the rough rest makes you work harder on the form*.


Don't quite get that part. Also, a lot of us use the more expensive metal rests because for the purpose of durability and adjustability. No influence on form as far as I can see and where're the photos of some of the top level Korean archers with Hoyt Super Rests on their bows?


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## Jim C

Floxter said:


> I'm a stringwalker like Hank and after having two AREs in succession break a wire which isn't replaceable, I've switched to a Cavalier Champion II on one bow and a simple Spigarelli Spigarest II on another bow. Each have held up equally well, with the Cavalier having adjustment features that the Spigarest doesn't. On my hunting recurve I have an old time NAP Flipperrest II which unfortunately is no longer available, but works great for me.


Mark Applegate-probably the best barebow shooter in the USA over the last decade, told my wife to use something with a long wire support arm rather than the ARE on her Spigarelli club due to the stringwalking. stringwalking is tough on those short rests


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## Jim C

richardfrog said:


> It would be a good idea to have a hoyt super rest or something not perfect to train, and when it is time to win medals, use AREs, since the rough rest makes you work harder on the form.


that makes absolutely no sense whatsoever


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## JayInCa

I have been using that new Shibuya rest for a couple of months now and like it a lot. It's not at all a "beefy", sturdy rest, very small and light, actually, but I'm not stringwalking so I prefer the low-mass rest. The wire arm can be adjusted easily and replaced if it breaks. It is a stick-on rest, but again, it's worked well for me.


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## hawkmoon

*hoyt super rest*

Hi, I shoot the Hoyt super rest on my traditional recurve, my question is do most people trim off the curved plastic part of the arm that wraps the side of the arrow?


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## titanium man

hawkmoon said:


> Hi, I shoot the Hoyt super rest on my traditional recurve, my question is do most people trim off the curved plastic part of the arm that wraps the side of the arrow?



In the past, I trimmed off a bit with a pair of fingernail clippers. Keep a little bit of it, so you have a bit of it to retain the arrow, but without the rest of it to get caught, it should last the life of the rest. Which is usually a long time.


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## titanium man

I started using the Spig ZT rest and I've never had much issue with it. I use to shoot the Cav Elite, but I had problems with the tolerances not being too tight. They may be different now, but they don't call it the Spig ZT because it has loose tolerances. (hint: Zero Tolerance):wink:

Good Luck


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## hockeyref

*Replacement wire arms?*

Anyone consider making a replacement arm for any of those rests that you can't buy one? I have a KAP that has the back part of the arm that sits on the magnet broken off. I'm looking for a suitable wire to make a replacement. I just haven't found one that is thin enough but still stiff enough. A paperclip from the 1960's might do it, but the newer ones are made from garbage metal...


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## Huntmaster

hockeyref said:


> Anyone consider making a replacement arm for any of those rests that you can't buy one? I have a KAP that has the back part of the arm that sits on the magnet broken off. I'm looking for a suitable wire to make a replacement. I just haven't found one that is thin enough but still stiff enough. A paperclip from the 1960's might do it, but the newer ones are made from garbage metal...


Go to your local hobby shop.....the ones that handle high end remote controll cars / planes. They'll have music wire in different sizes.


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## hockeyref

*Good idea Huntmaster*

Thanks for the idea... it never occured to me to use music wire....


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## limbwalker

> and where're the photos of some of the top level Korean archers with Hoyt Super Rests on their bows?


Pictures? I don't need no stikin' pictures... I saw them in person...  

I actually remember seeing quite a few Hoyt Super rests on bows in Athens. Not just the Koreans either...

Personally, one of my favorites has always been the good 'ol NAP Flipper II. Great rest, and absolutely bulletproof. I had one on my backup bow in '04 for just that reason. It would have taken a hammer and pair of pliers to render that rest unuseable, which is exactly what I wanted on my backup bow. One of my students used two of them for years (still may use them in fact) and took them all the way to the medal matches in the Jr. World Championships. 

Good idea using music wire for the rest arms. I don't know why in the world ARE doesn't offer replacement arms and screws for their rests though. Seems like a no-brainer to me... They could probably charge $7 for a single piece of wire, a tiny piece of metal and a screw, and we'd gladly pay it...

John.


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## titanium man

Another rest that is a great one, although finding it now, is nearly impossible, is the Hoyt Duro Rest. It was almost identical to the Super Rest, except without the annoying finger. It had a beefier arm, and I imagine the reason they got rid of them, is they're nearly indestructable. I think I have a box of them out in my shop, buried somewhere. The bidding starts at $2000 (for the box).


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## Old Hoyt

*Hoyt "Dura-rest"*

Still using a few Hoyt "Dura" rests - over 20 years old, just keep changing the adhesive tape. My only complaint is the amount of material below the plunger hole. With fat aluminums the bottom of the rest is sitting out where the radius of the shelf meets the vertical on my newer gold medalist risers (and that's with the vertatune sleeve at the top of the slotted hole)


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## DeltaFoxtrotZul

Just got the Shibuya rest today based on this threads recommendation. I've only put about 60 arrows through it but I'm really liking it.

It is quite small in comparison to any other stick on rest (ARE, Hoyt, etc) that I've tried before. The adjust ability of it looks great and simple, but I was pretty happy with it in it's default position so I haven't moved it yet.


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## RunsUpRiver

Floxter said:


> I have an old time NAP Flipperrest II which unfortunately is no longer availableQUOTE]
> 
> Is that true? The FLIPPER II's are no longer made?
> 
> Dean


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## Recurve Artemis

*Asahi offers replacement arms*

Hi,
I know this thread is from last year, but I stumbled upon it when I was searching for information on rests. 

I just wanted to let you all know that Asahi does offer replacement wires.
Look towards the middle of this page.
http://www.asahi-archery.co.jp/archery/archery_detail.php?item_id=i0000193


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