# Climbing sticks



## 5forks (Apr 20, 2010)

How do they stack & pack? Are they lighter than the LW sticks?


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## Jovush (Sep 28, 2006)

Nice work!! There has been quite a lot of concern on here about using conduit, how about sacrificing one of your beauties testing until destruction to satisfy the skeptics? I'm subbing!! Again nice work and can't wait to see finished product. Projects like this I like to see.


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## jetech (Oct 14, 2010)

I have pictures of the finished stick but AT doesn't like the photobucket URL or the direct download. Any ideas?


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## jetech (Oct 14, 2010)

5forks said:


> How do they stack & pack? Are they lighter than the LW sticks?


They don't stack real flat beacuse they are all the same size but they will stack somewhat. I will try and weigh them tomorrow.


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## HawgEnvy (Mar 2, 2011)

jetech said:


> I have pictures of the finished stick but AT doesn't like the photobucket URL or the direct download. Any ideas?


pm sent


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## jetech (Oct 14, 2010)

Jovush said:


> Nice work!! There has been quite a lot of concern on here about using conduit, how about sacrificing one of your beauties testing until destruction to satisfy the skeptics? I'm subbing!! Again nice work and can't wait to see finished product. Projects like this I like to see.


Thanks. I read the concerns and was a little skeptical but after looking at the material I didn't see any reason why it wouldn't be strong enough. I was worried about the strength of the bends and had planned to add a gusset to give them rigidity. Once I strapped one to a tree and put weight on it the ends of the bends bit into the tree and it didn't move at all. I would recommend conduit that is stamped "made in usa" though. Other than that clean the galv coating from the area to be welded, set your welder to the highest setting that won't burn through to fast and use a series of spot welds making sure you have good heat and penetration. I used a light weight MIG welder.
It would be fun to test to destruction but it is to close to Oct 1.


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## HardWayMike (Feb 11, 2011)

How did you bend the conduit? Pics?


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## HawgEnvy (Mar 2, 2011)

View attachment 1163474
View attachment 1163475


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## HawgEnvy (Mar 2, 2011)

i like 'em. wish i had a bender. good job


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## jetech (Oct 14, 2010)

HardWayMike said:


> How did you bend the conduit? Pics?


I cut 40" lengths, placed the conduit in a standard 1/2" conduit hand bender. Using the printed line on the EMT, I placed the conduit in the bender flush with the end that holds the conduit in place (don't know what its called) with the printed line facing up. Make the bend to 90 degrees and repeat at the other end. if there isn't a printed line then place the EMT on a flat surface, lay a marker beside the EMT and run along its length to make a line. I found the line is a good reference but you still have to visually check that the bend is going straight up.


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## jetech (Oct 14, 2010)

HawgEnvy said:


> i like 'em. wish i had a bender. good job


Thank you for posting the pictures for me.


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## HardWayMike (Feb 11, 2011)

Thanks for the heads up! If you made each one of a set about 1-2 inches longer or shorter you would be able to stack them fairly tight. I would think anyways.


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## HawgEnvy (Mar 2, 2011)

jetech said:


> Thank you for posting the pictures for me.


no problem. glad to help


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## Hunterdale (Nov 28, 2009)

Just a word of caution. Most climbing sticks of that design usually have the tree attach strap roughly 1/3 the way down from the top. I think it's to keep the stick from slipping over and off the tree when you're on the top step of the stick. Yours is set up with the strap at the half way point of the stick. Be sure to test that out completely before using these at great heights. Nice set up though.


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## Joe73 (Oct 18, 2009)

Hunterdale said:


> Just a word of caution. Most climbing sticks of that design usually have the tree attach strap roughly 1/3 the way down from the top. I think it's to keep the stick from slipping over and off the tree when you're on the top step of the stick. Yours is set up with the strap at the half way point of the stick. Be sure to test that out completely before using these at great heights. Nice set up though.


I was thinking the same thing. Just adjust the strap. Real nice job!!! I like them.


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## jetech (Oct 14, 2010)

Hunterdale said:


> Just a word of caution. Most climbing sticks of that design usually have the tree attach strap roughly 1/3 the way down from the top. I think it's to keep the stick from slipping over and off the tree when you're on the top step of the stick. Yours is set up with the strap at the half way point of the stick. Be sure to test that out completely before using these at great heights. Nice set up though.


Thanks for the caution. I had originally planned to weld a U bolt 1/3 of the way down on both sides for the strap but after clamping it to the tree it didn't seem to matter. It may be an issue with a smooth hard bark tree, I have only tested it on trees that allow the stick to bite into the bark. I think that the overall length and a tight strap contributes to the stick locking to the tree so well. A longer stick may flex some causing the strap to loosen. If I have any problems I will weld the U bolts on.


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## Kaos (Jun 28, 2011)

jetech, do you have a $ for build?


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## Jovush (Sep 28, 2006)

Job well done!! Be safe!!


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## jetech (Oct 14, 2010)

Kaos said:


> jetech, do you have a $ for build?


I got the conduit for free, so I just have time and welding wire and gas invested.


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## treeslinger2 (Feb 23, 2010)

Great job!
A question I had was did you cut the rungs to match the contour of the rails??


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## jetech (Oct 14, 2010)

treeslinger2 said:


> Great job!
> A question I had was did you cut the rungs to match the contour of the rails??


Yes I did. The smaller the gap to weld the better. I used a grinding wheel to notch them.


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## jetech (Oct 14, 2010)

5forks said:


> How do they stack & pack? Are they lighter than the LW sticks?


They weigh 3 lbs each.


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

For any additional steps I would go with 3/4" EMT, it doesn't weigh much more but has alot more strength. All the rapid rails I built are 3/4" and they are solid!!


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

As asked above, YES if you subtract say 2 inches from each set they will fit together. Notice the washer I added to fix the strap in the position you mention, it does help but the way these should be designed is that if they are tight the tree diameter should be within the tubes NOT allowing them to rotate once tight. Best way to seat these once on the tree is to stand on the top rail and bounce, they will lock in tighter than a bulls a&%.


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

I still prefer this style step though, locks together VERY tight for transport. You can see how each locks inside the next, you can stack these as high as the roof if you want  The strap is a new attachment system I am using, rated at 5000lbs so I think I am safe. FYI- I was building these steps for about 4-5 years, long before the stagger steps came out. Only mistake I made was posting pictures on here, not saying the took my design.


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

all of these look GREAT!


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

Did I mention I love camo duct tape :wink:


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## jetech (Oct 14, 2010)

RatherBArchery said:


> As asked above, YES if you subtract say 2 inches from each set they will fit together. Notice the washer I added to fix the strap in the position you mention, it does help but the way these should be designed is that if they are tight the tree diameter should be within the tubes NOT allowing them to rotate once tight. Best way to seat these once on the tree is to stand on the top rail and bounce, they will lock in tighter than a bulls a&%.


I like the sticks you made and wish I had enough 3/4" but I had plenty of 1/2" so thats what I used. You are right, pull the strap as tight as you can and jump on the bottom step and its not going to move. When I removed the strap the stick was still clamped to the tree and I had to pull it loose.
The washer is a good idea.


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

Yep, mine dig in too. It is nice you can pull off your strap and roll it up and then take the step off the tree. I would say if you are under 220lbs you will be fine with the 1/2" but I am a bit bigger than that :wink:


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

I am considering building 'kits' with the formed metal parts so other DIY folks can build these for themselves. You would get 3- U pieces and the two formed siderails, you would be responsible for the welding and painting. I figure this would take all the liability out of it because I would not be welding them, just selling material. Anyone interested in that???


RatherBArchery said:


> I still prefer this style step though, locks together VERY tight for transport. You can see how each locks inside the next, you can stack these as high as the roof if you want  The strap is a new attachment system I am using, rated at 5000lbs so I think I am safe. FYI- I was building these steps for about 4-5 years, long before the stagger steps came out. Only mistake I made was posting pictures on here, not saying the took my design.


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## DocMort (Sep 24, 2009)

Hell i would be willing to buy a set that you weld and all and sign an agreement to not sue you if my 300 lb ass breaks it. Gotta be cheaper than buying sticks from the big names.


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

Just looking to sell the material at this point


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## lrbergin (Jan 19, 2009)

I would be interested if the price was right. I just don't have the setup to bend it all up but would weld it up. I would think shipping would be high though.


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

Since I can ship parts in a smaller box UPS shouldn't be too bad, I am going to run some numbers tomorrow. PM me for details.


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## Jovush (Sep 28, 2006)

RatherB, tell us more about your strapping system. I've seen something similar on pallets of material where I work. I'd be interested in a kit version.


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## AdvanTimberLou (Aug 8, 2005)

RatherBArchery said:


> Since I can ship parts in a smaller box UPS shouldn't be too bad, I am going to run some numbers tomorrow. PM me for details.


If your trying to sell on here, you will be required to obtain sponsorship plus the DIY section is not for selling. Its for sharing ideas.

Please PM NOV RUT for prices on sponsorship.

Thanks,

Lou
AT Classifieds Administrator


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## Jovush (Sep 28, 2006)

I understood that he was meerly asking if there would be interest in a kit form for us DIY'ers, not selling at this point. Surely, he would follow correct forum procedures at that time. Thanks for pointing out.


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

Sorry, just trying to see if there was interest in my doing this.


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## Jovush (Sep 28, 2006)

RatherBArchery, can you tell us more about your strap configuration? Is it quick as it looks? Parts easy to come by?


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

NO, I WILL NOT TELL MY SECRET :angel:
Just kidding!!! These are actually shipping straps used in sea boxes or ???? My father happened to grab these from a job he did in Northern NJ and they are the cats a$& as far as I am concerned. My only gripe is that they are white straps and do not die well because they are nylon. These will only work on wedge type steps/stands because once tightened you must be able to pull up to relieve the pressure or you will never get them off without a knife. With my steps I just pull the straps snug while under the middle step and step on the top loop/step to tighten, the step may move 2" but once it is locked in it doesn't budge!!! I just lift up on the step to loosen and undo the buckle. These nylon straps actually measure 1.125" wide making me think they are metric size??!! The straps are rated for 5000lbs though, that should do


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## Jovush (Sep 28, 2006)

Thanks RatherB, I've seen these before and found I couldn't use them because of the way they tighten. Thought maybe you found a way around this problem, seems your application can use them. Thanks again.


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## Sideways (Feb 13, 2006)

I love the simplicity of the wooden jig!


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## NHLHVECTRIX (Jan 3, 2008)

very nice tagging it..


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## daltongang (Jul 29, 2009)

This would be cheaper than a new climber.


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