# Hoyt Trykon XL draw weight



## Elanus axillaris (Mar 17, 2006)

lvandev said:


> I have a Hoyt Trykon XL that I purchased this summer. It has 60 to 70 lb limbs but It will only go up to about 66 or 67lb with the limb adjustment screws all the way in. Does anyone know what needs to be done to get it to 70lbs.


Check the ATA & Brace height for your Draw length here. - http://www.hoyt.com/technical/charts.tpl?page=06_trykonxl.inc 
Mort than likley your ATA is outside spec. The pounage will not max out where it should if this is the case, FYI even 1/4" will make a huge difference in draw weight. 
Most Trykons I have seen actualy max out a few Lbs over the peek weight of the bow.
If it is out of spec follow Javi's tuning guide in the sticky or follow this link - http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=207391
In my experience this is quite common with genuine strings.

PS welcome to AT, be carefull this gets adictive!!!


----------



## bassman409 (Jul 19, 2006)

I agree with Hunter, the cables and strings have probably stretched a small amount and need to be shortened up a bit. I would twist up the buss and control cable a couple turns and then check the draw weight. You may have to get a shop to do this for you !


----------



## lvandev (Oct 10, 2006)

Per Hoyt at 30-1/2" draw the AtoA should be 36-1/8". When I measures to the center of the shafts one side is 35-3/4" and the other side is 35-7/8". I made need to take it to my pro shop and have them explain the difference.

Thanks for the information.


----------



## Elanus axillaris (Mar 17, 2006)

Don't forget ATA is measured centre to centre.
Putting more twists in the buss cable will increase the draw weight and lengthen the draw, twisting the control will do the opposite. This of course has an effect on timing and tune.
Sounds like your bow is not only out of spec but also possibly out of tune / time. Follow javi's guide or go visit your local pro shop. They should be able to set up the timing of your bow in an hour or so.


----------



## bassman409 (Jul 19, 2006)

One side will measure slightly longer due to the cable guide. See how it is pulled to one side making that side a bit shorter.


----------



## lvandev (Oct 10, 2006)

One other interesting note is for a good vertical paper tear my nock is about 1/4" higher than an arrow square to the string (rest is lower). I was getting a low tail and per Lawlersoutdoor.com tuning guide I backed off the lower limb or the rest would have been even lower. It also suggested increasing the spine of the arrow but I am still getting a right tail tear which indicates trying a weaker spine. I am waiting for QAD to send a spacer so I can move the rest away from the riser to correct the right tail tear. My arrows are Gold Tip XT 5575 at 29" and I am pulling around 66lb draw.


----------



## Tunaboy (Oct 3, 2004)

*Xl*

I too have an XL
I think you would be doing yourself a BIG favor by replacing the stock strings
Makes a big inprovement, you won't be sorry
Bucknasty here at AT does a great job at a fair price


----------



## Elanus axillaris (Mar 17, 2006)

lvandev said:


> One other interesting note is for a good vertical paper tear my nock is about 1/4" higher than an arrow square to the string (rest is lower). I was getting a low tail and per Lawlersoutdoor.com tuning guide I backed off the lower limb or the rest would have been even lower. It also suggested increasing the spine of the arrow but I am still getting a right tail tear which indicates trying a weaker spine. I am waiting for QAD to send a spacer so I can move the rest away from the riser to correct the right tail tear. My arrows are Gold Tip XT 5575 at 29" and I am pulling around 66lb draw.


IMO you are underspined by a fair bit. Ontarget 2 is a great tool for spine selection, here is a screen print of some rough numbers I crunched for you. Sorry the pic is not that clear. Basicly I have used 100grn screw in points, and heavy 4 vanes (4" QS).
You realy need to be using at least 7595's and even those are marginaly underspined.


----------



## Thib454SS (Aug 13, 2006)

*Diy*

I don't know how technical you like to get but you might do yourself a favor and buy or build a bow press. I have lost all faith in the "pro" shops. As the saying goes, " If you want something done rite you have to read Javi's post ten times and do it yourself ". I Know thats not very helpful but everything you need to know is on this site.


----------



## XP35 (Oct 11, 2005)

I would guarantee your cam timing/sync are off. If your nock point has to be that high then the tiller is off, therefore the cams are out of sync if the limb bolts are bottomed out. Especially if the AtA is too short along with nock high setting....the timing is way out I'd say.


----------



## Tunaboy (Oct 3, 2004)

*New Bow*

If you have not tuned your bow and it came from the factory they way mine did it is no where tuned properly....And again the factory striings are junk. Don't put all your effrot in to tuneing with them.


----------



## lvandev (Oct 10, 2006)

You guys have offered up alot of suggestions and I have alot to learn. My plan is to paper tune to as perfect a bullet hole as possible (fletched and unfletched arrow to make sure no fletching interference), broadhead tune so field tips and broad heads shoot the same. If it will not time I will buy one stiffer shaft arrow to see if that is the problem.

If I get it tuned and the nock and center shot look like they are out of line I will take it to the proshop where I bought the bow and see if they can answer my concerns.

Read Javi's cam timing thread and check my bow. I will probably need a press or someone else drawing the bow.

Before buying new strings there are a couple of things I need to understand about the problems with the factory strings and the performance marks on the lower cam. Do the strings change length based on temperature? What symptoms would I expect with the strings. Is it the string, buss cable, and control cable?? Would I see inconsistency in paper tuning or broadhead tuning? Or just poor groups when shooting. With the limb in between the performance marks does this mean the cams are in time?

Again I appreciate eveyones input as I am somewhat a perfectionist and hate not knowing all the technical details of how the bow works.


----------



## Elanus axillaris (Mar 17, 2006)

I have attempted to answer your questions below in RED. Make sure you read Javi's guide carefully. It should help a lot.
The spine issue I highlighted above should be addressed before tuning as a week spine will make your setup impossible to tune. I have included the GT sizing chart. As you can see 85grain points may get you close to the line with spine size but your Front of centre will be very low which will cause eratic arrow flight. IMO the only choice you have is to go to a 7595 (.340)spine and use 100grain points with something like blazer vanes to keep the FOC up...



lvandev said:


> Before buying new strings there are a couple of things I need to understand about the problems with the factory strings and the performance marks on the lower cam. Do the strings change length based on temperature? Yes, they can change for many reasons, temperature, wear stretch etc
> What symptoms would I expect with the strings. Usualy just that your ATA will be out of spec and the timing will be off
> Is it the string, buss cable, and control cable?? All of the above
> Would I see inconsistency in paper tuning or broadhead tuning? Or just poor groups when shooting. All of the above
> With the limb in between the performance marks does this mean the cams are in time? No It only means that the cam is in its most efficent position, See the pic to see what the cams should look like at full draw... Note that the top cam sould look similar I.E the cable should lay flat on the stop. My trykon shoots just a little better if the top cam is a little over rotated.


----------



## lvandev (Oct 10, 2006)

I am going to purchase 7595 spine Gold Tip arrows today. Attached are pictures of my cams at full draw.

View attachment 185421


View attachment 185422


View attachment 185423


View attachment 185424


----------



## bassman409 (Jul 19, 2006)

They look like they are timed very good. Either you did some work to them or the sync is out. Lets see the cams at rest! By the way did you ever check the Draw Length? If it is short , you would get reduced draw weight too!


----------



## Deezlin (Feb 5, 2004)

XP35 said:


> I would guarantee your cam timing/sync are off. If your nock point has to be that high then the tiller is off, therefore the cams are out of sync if the limb bolts are bottomed out. Especially if the AtA is too short along with nock high setting....the timing is way out I'd say.


I have to agree. If your axle to axle is under Hoyt recommendations you cams is not rotate correctly. The cables are too long and the string may be too short. Your draw length is probably not where it needs to be, but it could possibly work out. Take a look at JAVI article and also look at the mnaual. There are alignment marks which need to be checked also.


----------



## lvandev (Oct 10, 2006)

Attached are pictures of the bow at rest. You cannot see the performance marks on the lower cam very well but it is well within the marks. I know you measure draw length with an arrow at full draw but on the Trykon XL where on the riser do you measure the draw length to?? Handle, berger hole, ???
Thanks for the info.

View attachment 185446


View attachment 185447


View attachment 185448


View attachment 185449


----------



## Baldini (Mar 7, 2005)

*Check with your closest Good Hoyt dealer...*

I had a 60-70 UltraTec with 3000 limbs that maxed out at 68. Turns out, that's all it was supposed to do. There is a tuning chart set that I got from a Hoyt Staff Shooter that lists all of the measurements for every cam and limb combination. You may just find that it will only hit 67.


----------



## JohnAnderson (Sep 11, 2006)

Thib454SS said:


> I don't know how technical you like to get but you might do yourself a favor and buy or build a bow press. I have lost all faith in the "pro" shops. As the saying goes, " If you want something done rite you have to read Javi's post ten times and do it yourself ". I Know thats not very helpful but everything you need to know is on this site.


I have been thinking about getting a bow press and I am curious as to how easy it was to learn how to use the press and tune your own bow? By the way, how did you learn what you needed to know? By books, video, etc?


----------



## bassman409 (Jul 19, 2006)

The cams look good, Now the draw is measured from the back of the rest(deep part) plus 1 3/4 inchs in front of there. Its somewhere near the front of the riser but the exact place is back of rest plus 1 3/4 inchs. If the draw length is short just untwist the string to get it right and you may get the couples of extra pounds you need.


----------



## Elanus axillaris (Mar 17, 2006)

You have 2 problems here...
Defiantly get those stiffer spine arrows and that will fix one problem.
As I said earlier and as Dezlin and XP35 have also stated... the fact that your ata is so much lower than spec suggests a problem with string length. One of the most important steps in Javi's guide is to back the string off to the point where it is not affecting ATA, Abut 10 twists will usually do. I think that the problem here will be that the string is too short and thereby shrinking your ata, possibly to get the DL right for you if the seller didn’t know what he was doing. Also check your tiller with the limb bolts bottomed they should be even.




How to measure DL.


----------



## KenL (Dec 1, 2005)

*One Last Very Important Point......*

about your original question about draw weight. After putting my UltraTec (50-60#) into perfect factory spec, I couldn't get weight past 54#. The good folks here on AT helped me for a month...to no avail. After racking my brain, I finally broke down and took it the pro-shop (last resort for me). The first thing he did was put it on his shop scale....it was 60# on the button. Then we tried a hand-held...(the kind I have at home,) and it was 4# off. I immediatly ordered a new Coffey Digital Hanging Scale...sure enough it was spot on at 60#. I spent an un-Godly amount of time just because of a bum scale.

The folks here at AT are giving you some great advice.....my .02....add another $50.00 to the price of that bow press and get a quality scale.


----------



## Elanus axillaris (Mar 17, 2006)

KenL said:


> about your original question about draw weight. After putting my UltraTec (50-60#) into perfect factory spec, I couldn't get weight past 54#. The good folks here on AT helped me for a month...to no avail. After racking my brain, I finally broke down and took it the pro-shop (last resort for me). The first thing he did was put it on his shop scale....it was 60# on the button. Then we tried a hand-held...(the kind I have at home,) and it was 4# off. I immediatly ordered a new Coffey Digital Hanging Scale...sure enough it was spot on at 60#. I spent an un-Godly amount of time just because of a bum scale.
> 
> The folks here at AT are giving you some great advice.....my .02....add another $50.00 to the price of that bow press and get a quality scale.


Good advice also.


----------



## bfisher (Nov 30, 2002)

Hey guys. Just had a similar discussion else where about a bow not reaching it's advertised weight. In that thread it came down to the scale used. 

NOW, what kind of scale is being used. If it's one of those hand held versions they are notorious for reading about 4-5 lbs light.

Just thought I'd toss this in before things get too technical.


----------



## lvandev (Oct 10, 2006)

Thanks to everyone who gave me input on draw weight and tuning issues. I think I found the culprit "fletching contact". More detail in thread http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=399670. I thought I would try to offer my experience as a possible solution to others.

On the original thread question on draw weight, I can live with what ever it is. For now I will continue to shoot the 5575 gold tips I have but purchase stiffer spine arrows later on.

Thanks again for eveyones input, I am learning alot.


----------

