# Hinge Anchor Point



## JASpring (Jun 25, 2013)

Hopefully this isn't too basic of a question for this sub-forum, but I feel the posters here are the most informed. Anyway, I'm wondering if I have a draw length issue; I recently dropped a 1/2" off my DL to hold steadier with my switch to a true target setup and when shooting my hinge (Longhorn Pro or Backspin), I sometimes feel my anchor point being pulled forward during my shot sequence. I don't use excessive push-pull, but I do feel my points lose some contact...I don't want to end up with this floating anchor, any help? I know it's tough with no pics, sorry.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

You are right, a floating anchor is not very helpful to good accuracy.

Without seeing you shoot, I'd guess that you are losing back tension. It's pretty hard to for the anchor to be pulled forward if you are using your back muscles to execute the shot. 

Or it could be something else. Do you have a good shooter available to watch you and see what's actually happening?

Allen


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## JASpring (Jun 25, 2013)

Unfortunately no, but I echo your sentiment about losing tension. I use of more of a relaxed hand method of firing the release, so perhaps "everything" is relaxing too much as opposed to just my hand/index finger.


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## RCR_III (Mar 19, 2011)

I relax my hand during the shot too. But to keep the problem you sound like you may be having from happening to myself, I increase tension in my back to hold my hand constant or to have it slightly being pulled rearward. More of a taking up the slack that my hand relaxing is causing.


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## bhutso (Jan 4, 2007)

I execute my hinge and thumb button by relaxing as well, try this when you get to full draw before you go to your ancor, squeeze your shoulder blades together. "Get between the bow" is how it was described to me. It helps me keep even tension and use my back muscles to hold the bow back even though my index finger and hand are relaxing. When I first made the switch I was using alot of arm pull and had similar issues, once the bow broke over I would just relax everything. You need tension in the shot to be consistant even if you are not using a push pull type release. Hope that makes sense I'm no coach but I got it from a coach and it has greatly helped my shooting. As long as you use your back to hold the tension you won't get tired and your float will slow down and you anchor will be consistant. Those are some good checkpoints to see if you are doing it correct


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## bigHUN (Feb 5, 2006)

The release hand can be a "loose" part if you in example anchor on your nose tip, but definitely a "bone-to-bone" contact can make it more consistent.
BTW I don't know your form neither your release......I shoot cascades, these are relax style execution releases so no bones/muscles working at all but relaxing from holding wight....
I just got a new bow with shorter ATA what means steeper string angle, spending my days looking for a balance between the peep height and the release hand position and they'r relationship....for several days I had the release "floating" and thaat feels really weird. Last night I lowered the peep (rotating string and tweaking in the press) so I could feel the "touch" on one of my back-lower jaw bones, not sure yet how its gonna work out of my basement, in couple hours I will give it a field trial. I believe worth to spend time and effort....


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## JASpring (Jun 25, 2013)

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I think those sound like good ideas. As far as bone contact, I do still use my jawbone and my release hand, but I also have a small eliminator button for a kisser. That's what seems to pull slightly away, especially when fatigue sets in.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Yes, splitting the jaw bone with the index and middle finger is good, but realizing where your hand knuckles is important. Me, I like to feel my hand knuckles right at the corner of my jaw, but not that I lose contact with my fingers splitting my jaw bone. Too far back and the possibility of what I a call "rocking" on the corner of the jaw bone. This can give bad shots.... When all as it should be I can feel 1/8" too long... Is some cases, just melting the ball back another ball length for the d-loop helped a bunch...


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## cbrunson (Oct 25, 2010)

You will run into some issues with long range outdoor shooting by relying on a hand-to-face anchor point. Your hand will have to move if you shoot a target sight at close and farther distances. The string to the tip of my nose and peep/ housing alignment are my only reference points. At 100 yds my hand is well below my jawbone whereas it is lightly touching at 20 yds.

Anchoring this way also helps with switching releases. I can shoot two completely different releases with the same POI.


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

Periodically (every couple of weeks) I find I'm adding/subtracting 2 yards and I believe it has to do with my anchor. I've been really trying to pay attention to the spot on my jaw where I touch my pointer knuckle, seems to pay off when I focus on that step.


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## schnauza2000 (Dec 27, 2013)

I hear ya JASpring, I've had the same problem with draw length when using a thumb trigger vs a hinge. Anchor and draw length feels vastly different between the two. As far as relaxing your hand, I had been doing it, but found a method I liked a lot better, and I think it helped me keep a more consistent anchor. Go to Youtube and search 'hinge release deep grip'. Posts on here about it from Padgett and BowThrow (sp?).


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## miko0618 (Mar 3, 2005)

if you just recently changed your dl, you may not have adjusted yet. you cant expect your body to be just as strong at a new position as its formerly trained position.


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## ArcherXXX300 (Apr 22, 2013)

Different issue but similar issue for me, my anchor point ends up at the far back of my jawline and is dropping off my face it feels like sometimes or fingers are just barely touching my jawline.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

ArcherXXX300 said:


> Different issue but similar issue for me, my anchor point ends up at the far back of my jawline and is dropping off my face it feels like sometimes or fingers are just barely touching my jawline.


Shorten overall draw length in manner or another - draw length of bow, d-loop....whatever it takes. In most cases very small changes can make a big difference...


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## ron w (Jan 5, 2013)

i'm going to be the oddball, here and say I never change my anchor for longer distances. I also refuse to shoot a bow shorter than about 37 inches. the same anchor out to 80 and 100 yards as when shooting 20. the reason most guys need to change is because they have the wrong (too high) anchor to begin with. 
again the short bows.....most everyone I see shooting them, dips their head one way or another to get their nose on the string, this will induce the need for two anchor points between short and long distance shooting. this is ridiculous....we have bows that are far more capable of shooting accurately at longer distances than ever before, so we screw up our form, to be able to use them.
just one more reason to avoid the short ATA bows...they are simply not made to fit our anatomy.


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

After reading your post, I wouldn't call it a change in anchor thing. It is a creeping forward thing and anytime you stretch your hand or yield or relax the index finger to fire a hinge you are going to creep forward, unless you increase the tension on the wall by squeezing your rhomboids or simply pull into the wall.

I had a lot of success with yielding my fingers and relaxing my index finger in the beginning and I was creeping forward all the time and even shot some of my 60x rounds doing this very thing but I knew it was a bad thing and I worked on fixing the issue. For me right now I am actually yielding as my primary competition firing engine but I am very smoothly pulling into the wall while I am yielding, For me the pulling into the wall really takes the focus off of your hand because when all you do is yield the focus is on your fingers and making them relax and that much focus on your fingers is a bad thing. When you very smoothly pull into the wall with a very subtle amount of pressure and yield at the same time they really balance out nicely and create a nice amount of rotation in the hinge and the arrow is gone.

I have hinge shooting articles if you want them, I think most of the guys in this thread have gotten them.


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## Strodav (Apr 25, 2012)

JASpring said:


> Unfortunately no, but I echo your sentiment about losing tension. I use of more of a relaxed hand method of firing the release, so perhaps "everything" is relaxing too much as opposed to just my hand/index finger.


If you have a smart phone or an Apple tablet, pick up the app Coach's Eye at the app store. I bought an inexpensive tripod and a holder for my ipad mini and iphone that fits the tripod. Can start it recording from various positions then later review your shots in slow motion or normal speed. Really helps with analyzing what's going on and you can do it on your own. Can compare from shot to shot or today's performance to earlier performances. My coach introduced me to it.


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