# Perpetual Bare bow fingers information thread



## jmoose77 (Apr 3, 2004)

Sounds good.:thumbs_up


----------



## krmccubbins (Feb 5, 2011)

Sounds good Don. There should be a non sight shooters thread. We shoot different than everyone else.


----------



## mitchell (Mar 5, 2005)

Thanks for taking the lead Don. You da man. 

After the group checks in, we can start with some tips and questions.


----------



## Steve D (Sep 24, 2005)

Sound good to me Don, great idea!!


----------



## KYjim (Nov 20, 2006)

I think you have a great idea. I switched to barebow recently and love it!!

Jim


----------



## zestycj7 (Sep 24, 2010)

What do all of you shoot?
I shoot the Martin Shadowcats and love them. I have 2 yellow and black for shooting right handed and 1 red and black for when I shoot left handed.
Don.


----------



## jmoose77 (Apr 3, 2004)

I'm shooting Oneida Aeroforce.


----------



## mitchell (Mar 5, 2005)

Jmoose

How do the Oniedas compare to the Monster Bows, the Onieda knock offs? Had any experience with them?


----------



## jmoose77 (Apr 3, 2004)

mitchell said:


> Jmoose
> 
> How do the Oniedas compare to the Monster Bows, the Onieda knock offs? Had any experience with them?


Mitchell, I have never shot a monster bow.
Never really thought of them as a Oneida knock off but just another good lever limb bow option.
Always heard positive remarks about those bows but again I never had a chance to shoot one.


----------



## Joshua M. Smith (Dec 28, 2012)

Hello,

What's the difference between a dedicated finger bow and everything else? I shoot compounds with bare fingers. Tried several releases when I was younger and never really liked any of them. I like to feel "attached" to the arrow just like I like to feel attached to the sear and striker on a good rifle.

Riser shape? Center shot offset..?

Thanks,

Josh


----------



## mitchell (Mar 5, 2005)

Good questions Josh. Hopefully others will chime in.

There are several things that influence how easy it will be too shoot a bow with fingers. The overall length of the bow, which affects string angle and finger pinch is one. Longer is usually better. Some guys shoot bows under 40" ATA well, but most like them over that, and many prefer them out to 46" or 48".

Higher brace height is usually better. Most people seem to think of 7 1/4" as sort of a minimum, and higher than that is considered better. As for the riser, the closer to or more deflexed it is, the better it is thought to be. That would refer to the deepest part of the grip being in line with or forward of the hinge point of the limbs.

Cam design can also come into play for most people. Some guys strongly prefer the more round wheel style. However, there are a growing number of people who shoot the cam and a half, the solo cams (Mathews), and or the binary cams.

Some of the older bows with many of these features pop up from time to time really affordable. There are also a few manufacturers still offering at least one finger friendly bow. And then there are also a few (like Barnsdale) who will custom build a fingers bow.

Usually, the more you go to the finger friendly design, the slower the bow is. However, there are some options out there that are plenty peppy for hunting, if that is your goal.


----------



## jmoose77 (Apr 3, 2004)

The older finger bows from years ago usually had the following:
Longer ATA.
Deflex riser.
Generous brace height.

If you find all of the above it will be a slower bow like Mitchell said.

There are alot of guys shooting the newer bows very well with fingers. 

Here is a pic of a older finger bow. It is a Hoyt Aspen.


----------



## mitchell (Mar 5, 2005)

Riser design illustrated. Reflex; in line; deflex


----------



## Joshua M. Smith (Dec 28, 2012)

Hello,

I think I picked well. I found my early '80s bow was broken in a spot I didn't look when I got it, and is now a wall-hanger.

How is this?










Went to Bass and Bucks (regionally famous, I guess, friends of mine) and told them the kind of bow I wanted. They dug up this Oregon for me. Round cams, and I believe the riser is a bit shallow as the sight is not in full view. Set at 41lbs it feels GOOOOOD and, set heavier, I figure I'll use it for deer. (In Indiana, draw weight is a minimum of 30lbs and I really like around 50 or 55lbs for deer, though 30 yards is my max feel good shot.)

Intended use is small game and target. Right now I have a prong rest on it. That thing was designed for a release but I modified it with a spring. It's shootable, but not totally acceptable. Waiting on a button I ordered to get here sometime this week. This is what I did, though:




























There's an ultralight 1911 mainspring in there so the arrow rest can move to the right when I draw.

The rest I've been trying to figure out is this:










Button rest that seems to set up the way I have it laid out -- no other way to do it, I don't think -- but it doesn't seem to want to hold the arrow securely, either. Old, from Bear I believe.

The one I have on order and should be here in just a couple more days is this:









_Seller's photo -- new old stock_.

That Larry Wise rest just seems to make all sorts of sense to me.

How is my planning here?

Thanks,

Josh


----------



## myya (Feb 3, 2003)

I sent this AD to a Moderator friend to see if he can make this a Sticky.
We will soon see.
Keep the fingers crossed.
Check back later.
Myya


----------



## myya (Feb 3, 2003)

Josh,
The Oregon bow is great looking. I remember when they came out. It looked like they took parts from many manufacturers and started playing around to see what they could come up with. By today's standards it is called Franken bows. I made two target bows for myself, one PSE and the second Hoyt.
The TM hunter rest looks good but I would take the inner prong off and put a Berger button in its place. This way you could shoot cock vane out. This is what I do for my custom rests I make.
The ol' Bear rest is something I would like to mess with for my target bow. So I will have to look for one in old junk boxes at archery shops. I would bend the launcher bar in about 30 degrees and turn the hook up more at 45 degrees and file a small flat spot on the prong. Then set the arrow so the prong is holding the weight of the arrow in the middle at 45 degrees. On the far right side there are 2 set screws that adjust the spring tension for the launcher bar. I would set the tension on the high side so the arrow does not fall thru when drawing with fingers. The set screw on the inside of the mounting bar is to adjust the launcher arm up and down and in and out. You can change the tension of the Berger button with different stiffness of springs. If you need a couple I could send you a couple I have in my box t6o see if they will work for you.
You might want to look for an old GKF Star Hunter rest. They are very good for hunting or target if you use medium to heavy arrows.
But keep plugging away at finding what works for your shooting style.
I have used all kinds of flipper rests, micro adjustable rests, and even some springys.
I finally found the Huntmaster 2000 type rest from GKF and a plunger works for me. They made a prong arm that looked like a canoe paddle. I modified the angle of the prong arm and made the paddle part a little narrower. I use old brass Berger buttons, like the one you will be getting with your Larry Wise rest. I just can't justify spend $50 or more for the fancy Berger buttons of today.
Well enough of my jabber jawing.
Take care and have a great day.
Myya


----------



## myya (Feb 3, 2003)

Remember to keep this thread up on top so the moderators will see it is still active.
This way we can convince them to make it a STICKY!!!!
Thanks.
Myya


----------



## Joshua M. Smith (Dec 28, 2012)

Myya,

Thank you. I installed the Larry Wise and took it to the archery range. Got to the point I was sinking two of three into the same hole at 25 yards. The third one was close. Turns out I lost track of time and ended up shooting for about 6 hours on end. My fingers are swollen!

Probably will have to go with some "fingers" so that won't happen again.

Not a fan of how the Larry Wise rest lets the arrow come off it easily, though. A Futura Huntmaster is looking good. I have a broken one that came on another bow and have thought of replacing the plastic "paddle" with one that I would make from brass. We'll see.

The one I really want is a Golden Key:









I'm trying to find one online right now.

There was a recurve shooter at the range shooting at about 25 yards, no sights, and doing better than most of the compound bow folks with sights! I noticed he was using his fingers in a strange manner, and I asked him about it.

Turns out he was using his three fingers all below the arrow. I lowered my fingers on the Oregon to match his hold and my groups instantly improved. Have you ever heard of using fingers all _below_ the arrow, none on top?

I shot to the point I could not draw the bow any longer, and look forward to installing a couple small game heads that came yesterday.

By the way, I was wrong about the draw. I'd been told it was 41lbs. Didn't feel that light so I asked them to measure it again while I was there. 61lbs was the true weight, so I lowered it to 60 to have a nice round number I could remember.

Do you have any idea what the min/max draw weights are on this thing?

Thank you very much!

Regards,

Josh


----------



## jmoose77 (Apr 3, 2004)

*Oregon Bow info*

You picked well and here is a little info on Oregon bows Joshua. 

I may have a used Huntmaster 2000 here and will look for it if your interested. 
It's yours for the asking if you want it.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=339619&highlight=oregon


----------



## Joshua M. Smith (Dec 28, 2012)

Hello,

I'm very interested; not finding it online anywhere!

I'd be glad to pay the shipping, and if you're in to Mosin rifles at all, I'm sure I can do you a favor back!

Regards,

Josh


----------



## jmoose77 (Apr 3, 2004)

Joshua M. Smith said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm very interested; not finding it online anywhere!
> 
> ...


PM me your address Joshua and it will be in the mail on Monday.


----------



## Joshua M. Smith (Dec 28, 2012)

Inbound!


----------



## myya (Feb 3, 2003)

Josh,
I to shot all fingers below. But I pull back with three under but I release with two fingers. I have for years.Less chance of plucking the string. I do not know that much about the Oregon bows but it looks similar to the old Jennings bows.
Talk to you soon.
Myya


----------



## mitchell (Mar 5, 2005)

Ditto the two under hold. Some guys shoot extremely well with the split finger draw. I found early on with trad bows that I could get a clean bare shaft and good flight much more easily with three under. Once I migrated to the compound, I began to draw with three under, and then drop the bottom finger holding with two under before release. Some of the split guys drop the bottom and hold with one over and one under. You just have to experiment to find out what works best for you.

If you have an opportunity to be around another fingers guy who is already shooting well, take every chance you get to watch and ask questions. It will really cut the learning curve.


----------



## mitchell (Mar 5, 2005)

Barebow question: Do you guys employ any trick to be sure you are holding the bow perfectly vertical each shot? I know with a trad bow you could touch the string to your eyebrow. Anybody doing anything I can learn from?


----------



## jmoose77 (Apr 3, 2004)

I anchor on the right side of my nose Mitchell. 

If my bow is verticle or with a slight cant it does not effect my shot under 30/35 yds. Longer yardage shots I want to hold my bow as verticle/straight as possible.


----------



## zestycj7 (Sep 24, 2010)

I alway worried about trying to hold the bow straight up and down when I shoot, but I have found for me, as long as I get a good sight picture down the length of the shaft to the spot it isn't as critical.
I even tested it out, I would hold with a cant and then hold upright. As long as I had good alinement with the centerline of the shaft and the spot I was good to go.
One thing I did change, was that now I look on the inside of the string, between the string and the riser. It gives me a getter sight picture.
Mitch, I hope this helps.
Don.


----------



## jmoose77 (Apr 3, 2004)

*Do you remember the first compound bow you started with?*

My first compound was a new Bear Whitetail Hunter in 1981. 
This was the Bear Whitetail bow with 4 wheels and 3 miles of steel cable.:wink::lol:
Shot it instinctive with a stick on arrow rest.

I have a Whitetail Hunter now but it's not the original one I started with.

I still shoot it some in the back yard.:smile:


----------



## mitchell (Mar 5, 2005)

Jmoose, those old Bear Whitetails were something special weren't they. Like a boat anchor. Man things have changed.

Thanks Don. Never tried looking inside the string. I will have to play with that.


----------



## Joshua M. Smith (Dec 28, 2012)

Thanks guys!

I was experimenting with drawing the 60lbs with three fingers, then holding with 2. I wasn't sure if this was "correct" but with either 2 or 3 fingers below the arrow, I was shooting much, much better than the majority of the release guys there once I got the rhythm down.

One thing I've always had trouble with is knowing how much to bend my arm. I have beefy forearms from building hotrods and working as a mechanic in my younger years, and the string from any bow tends to slap me. 

I've moved the grip to be more against my thumb then when I shoot pistol and positioned the peep sight to come in line with my right eye when the string touches the side of my right nostril, but I still sting my wrist now-and-again.

Folks who have watched tell me I don't bend my arm enough and end up overdrawing the bow by a little. 

I had this problem back in the early '90s too.

How does one learn to keep the draw length consistent as far as how far forward to hold the bow? The string is obviously stopped by my face, but how do I know where to position the bow itself?

Is it just a learned feel, or is there something I can reference until I get the feel down?

I'm really loving this... especially since I'm shooting so well these days. Back when I was 14 or so I would never have dreamed of shooting a bow this well. I'm still amazed I can do it. I can shoot sub-MOA with a rifle and open sights, but that's with my other eye and is a totally different discipline, anyway.

I've tried to find my NPOA using my bow, and the close-my-eyes-aim-then-open-my-eyes trick doesn't seem to work due to the tension of the bowstring.

I'm also borrowing breathing methods from firearms shooting; I inhale while I draw the bow, exhale completely while holding the string back, and at NRP I release. Is this correct for bow?

All this seems to get the job done, but there are always ways to improve so far as I am concerned.

Thanks again!

Josh


----------



## mitchell (Mar 5, 2005)

Joshua,

See if you can go to this link on bow grip.

http://www.buckmasters.com/DesktopM...eid=643&articleId=385&moduleId=658&PortalID=0


----------



## Joshua M. Smith (Dec 28, 2012)

mitchell said:


> Joshua,
> 
> See if you can go to this link on bow grip.
> 
> http://www.buckmasters.com/DesktopM...eid=643&articleId=385&moduleId=658&PortalID=0


This, Sir, is very helpful. I've always held them like I hold a pistol when shooting one-handed. 

I am printing this out for reference. I tried it a few times and it appears it makes me use a muscle that I'm not used to using while shooting archery. Should be interesting!

Regards,

Josh


----------



## mitchell (Mar 5, 2005)

Split finger (one over, and two under), three under (the nock), split and dropping the index finger off the string (once full draw is reached), split and dropping the bottom finger off the string (holding with two), and two under (drawing three under and dropping the ring finger) are all variations to play with. Some great shooters use each of these. In fact, some few even hold with one finger. You just have to experiment.

Generally, the bow arm should be straight. The elbow should not be bent (for most people) but THE BOW ARM SHOULD BE RELAXED. The bow arm is straight, but relaxed. The more you can get there, the more you take muscle tension out of the shot. If you are having to really extend the bow arm and push way forward to get the bow to full draw, your draw length probably needs to be shortened. Most people will not shoot as well if there draw length is even a little too long.

There are guys out here that know a lot more than I do. I have just made all the mistakes and learned from some of them.


----------



## mitchell (Mar 5, 2005)

Here is a picture of good form. Notice the bow shoulder is low, the bow arm is straight but not pushed out, and the shooter is erect.


----------



## bdeal (Oct 28, 2005)

Are you guys all anchoring with your middle or index finger in the corner of your mouth?

Thanks


----------



## mitchell (Mar 5, 2005)

I went to the feather at the nose (Rick Welch style), in particular, using a shield cut feather. I draw three under and drop the bottom. That puts the index finger at the base of my nose. I had to play with how far back to set the feather, and it is further back than most, but works fine.

Others will respond. Lots of guys do the corner of the mouth, but it can move. Some do a tooth, which I did for a long time. A double anchor is even better, but with the hard back wall does not seem as essential as with a trad bow.


----------



## Joshua M. Smith (Dec 28, 2012)

Hi Gents,

Sorry I've not been on here for a couple days. I had problems with a hacker exploiting JavaScripting and have been restoring my computer since. 

I received the arrow rest from JMoose77 and am very grateful to him. It shoots great! I also found a drop-away for cheap and have been playing with it. This particular one works with a plunger.

Either allow me to put two arrows in almost the same hole. I always blow the third shot.

What is happening is when I started shooting in the early '90s, I was never told not to hold the bow like a pistol... so I ended up getting whacked with the string a lot.

This time around I got to looking at technique on the internet and asking around at a public range. Lots of finger shooters there, too. Turns out that I'm supposed to hold the bow between my thumb and that life line thingy on my palm. Didn't know that! No longer getting whacked with the string.

But... I _am_ rotating the bow. This is lot less stable than my previous hold. Gripping a pistol like a 1911 requires a firm hold and this is a totally foreign way for me to shoot.

Feels like I need more weight on the bottom of the bow. Would a stabilizer work for this, do you think? 

How do I balance a stabilizer?

What's that rope thingy in the picture










that Mitchell posted? Does it help keep the bow vertical? Looks like it might.

Thank you all, again. Your help has been invaluable!

Regards,

Josh


----------



## Z Barebow (Feb 11, 2008)

Josh,

Something you can do is when holding your bow, allow your fingers tips to lightly touch the front of the riser. (Note the pic) He does NOT have a death grip on bow. This will add a little stability without torquing the bow. (Causing erratic shots, forearm slap)

That rope thingy is a wrist strap. When lightly holding bow, some guys unconsciously grip bow as they shoot. (In fear their bow will fly out of their hand and onto the floor) A wrist strap will keep your bow in your hand after the shot if your bow jumps.


----------



## myya (Feb 3, 2003)

Has anyone seen what the moderators are doing to the classified sections?
They are adding a sub-category for each individual section. Just so the WTB/WTT people don't plug up the main section. It must have been to messy on the original WTB/WTT section.
But they won't even give us a 'STICKY' for our small mundane group of non-sighted barebow finger shooters.
I think we should all write to the head moderator and tell them what a great job they are doing. REALLY!!

Have a great day to all and to all have a great day.

Finger shooters forever.
Myya


----------



## woodcarver (Aug 31, 2007)

never met you Don but i take my hat off to you this is a great idear you have lets keep it going i own to hoyts and a mission my finger bow is a barnsdale classic x i shoot three fingers under and im shooting pretty good i sight spot on and every day i shoot i like this bow and style of shooting more and more if i can answer any one's questions i will just remember im not a pro just a retired guy that loves to shoot


----------



## mitchell (Mar 5, 2005)

What are you thinking about when you release the arrow? Aiming? A spot? Follow through? Is your bow arm completely still for a moment or two before release?


----------



## myya (Feb 3, 2003)

DON'T MISS THE WHOLE DARN BALE!!
ESPECIALLY WHEN PEOPLE ARE WATCHING.

Aiming for the center of the target and a smooth release.
Everything else will be there when you need it.

Myya


----------



## rsarns (Sep 23, 2008)

mitchell said:


> What are you thinking about when you release the arrow? Aiming? A spot? Follow through? Is your bow arm completely still for a moment or two before release?


pull, pull, pull....... kind of subconsciously anyway... If my bow arm doesn't settle and hold steady I would like to say I let down... Still tring to convince myself that I CAN letdown.


----------



## rsarns (Sep 23, 2008)

Here are my 2 go to bows, one setup for NFAA BH (Vantge Pro with XT3000 limbs and cam and half +) and the other (Vantage LTD) for BB right now...


----------



## Boyd (Feb 7, 2003)

rsarns said:


> here are my 2 go to bows, one setup for nfaa bh (vantge pro with xt3000 limbs and cam and half +) and the other (vantage ltd) for bb right now...


nice!!!


----------



## Joshua M. Smith (Dec 28, 2012)

mitchell said:


> What are you thinking about when you release the arrow? Aiming? A spot? Follow through? Is your bow arm completely still for a moment or two before release?


Hello,

In the event that question was directed at me, I'm thinking "front sight, front sight, front sight" as I did when I was learning rifle and pistolcraft.

Is this correct for bow?

Thanks,

Josh


----------



## Z Barebow (Feb 11, 2008)

I focus on spot (X to be more precise). Sometimes even when I have a mediocre release or something else off, focus on the X mythically guides my arrow where needs to go. (Not everytime, but enough to know that when I lose focus, my groups open up)

I find when I lose focus, my follow through/steadyness after the shot is [email protected] When things are flying good, I can follow the arrow into the center of target and virtually count the arrow rotation.


----------



## mitchell (Mar 5, 2005)

There are varying opinions, from what I have read, on what a non sight shooter, or even a sight shooter should be focusing on, so I am curious about others. 

Some sight shooters focus on the pin; others on the target and the pin is blurry. I think the latter is supposed to be preferable.

For non sight guys, many seem to say focus on the spot. Or possibly, aim, aim, aim...........whatever your aiming method (sight picture, gap, etc). However, for guys like me who have been through TP, emphasis on the sight picture seems to aggravate TP. I have read that the focus should be on form and follow through; that is set the sight picture and then focus on some aspect of follow through. So I was just wondering what others out here do.


----------



## zestycj7 (Sep 24, 2010)

When I shoot, I try and focus on alot at the same time.
I look at the spot I want to hit, sight down the shaft from nock to the spot, hopefully that takes care of my center shot :wink:
To be honest, the only part of my form I worry about is my bow arm not moving at the shot and my release hand staying glued to my face. I don't worry about if my feet are placed right, if my body is facing one way or the other.
"For me" I find that as long as my hand and arm don't move on the loose nothing else matters.
Don.


----------



## zestycj7 (Sep 24, 2010)

As some of you know I have switched over to shoot left handed. I have found that once my groups start getting larger in dia. that if I shoot right handed for a day or two it tightens my left hand groups back up. 
When I am back fresh to shooting left handed my groups are nice and tight again all the way out to 60 yards.
Today I am going out to the range to spend the day shooting right handed, yesser my left hand groups have gotten big again....lol
I am also going to tryout a Bodoodle Timberdoodle I got with one of my bow and never tryed, put it on my right hand bow last night, see what it is like and might have it up for sale if I don't like it....:wink:
Well off to the range, ya'll have a great day.
Don.


----------



## Joshua M. Smith (Dec 28, 2012)

Hi Folks,

Just an update:

I went to the range last Thursday as I do every Thursday. I used the "fingertips on the front" and found out I _was_ torquing. Using my fingers on the front improved my shooting greatly.

I used to use a stabilizer to help with torque, so I went looking for one like I had before -- all metal. Turns out they didn't have them any longer! Argh!

I ended up with a wrist strap (which I initially eschewed) and stabilizer combo... but ended up using the wrist strap after I was able to shoot groups well without it. I view this as using a 'scope on a rifle _after_ mastering iron sights.

I was consistently throwing one shot at 30 yards or so, with the other two arrows touching each other almost consistently. I marked the arrow and asked that it be checked out. Turns out it has some wobble in it, so I'll buy a new one next time I go out.

I asked to use the chronograph, and I'm shooting 217fps consistently with this Oregon bow set at 60.4lbs. Not bothered at all by the speed; I was just curious as these bows were supposedly the first to break 300fps, from what I've read hear and elsewhere. I was told that back then, this meant about an 80lb draw and an overdraw setup. I can see that; I remember seeing those types from my teenage years.

I'm also running a full-length arrow and a 125grn point, so I figure that's slowing things down a bit as well.

I am now better than I was the first time around, but not as good as I'm aiming to be.

Thanks for all the advice so far, guys!

Josh


----------



## JRB623 (Dec 17, 2012)

I shoot a Reflex Caribou. Not sure of the year since Hoyt can't seem to find the info. It's the deflex riser a year or two before the tec model. I use a NAP centerest flipper and doinker 11 inch stabilizer. That's mainly to balance the bow. I'm looking at a shorter one now that's got the weight. At 60# it puts out my 400 gr. gold tip xt hunters at 230 fps. I use this same bow for everything. Also, I shoot split finger with a tab. Tried 3 under and it just felt unnatural. I anchor middle finger at the corner of my mouth. No string or face walking.


----------



## AF1 (Nov 8, 2012)

JRB623 said:


> I shoot a Reflex Caribou. Not sure of the year since Hoyt can't seem to find the info. It's the deflex riser a year or two before the tec model. I use a NAP centerest flipper and doinker 11 inch stabilizer. That's mainly to balance the bow. I'm looking at a shorter one now that's got the weight. At 60# it puts out my 400 gr. gold tip xt hunters at 230 fps. I use this same bow for everything. Also, I shoot split finger with a tab. Tried 3 under and it just felt unnatural. I anchor middle finger at the corner of my mouth. No string or face walking.



You may have a 03 or 04 Caribou. The Reflex Caribou with the tec riser (I think) was in 05.


----------



## Paul68 (Jul 20, 2012)

I started in '83 with a Browning Deluxe Nomad, mail ordered from Bowhunter's Discount Warehouse.  Thick wood riser and limbs. I still have it, but it has been unstrung since the Reagan Administration. I've been shooting a Hoyt ProTech LX Pro for several years, but just broke down (with the Boss's permission) and ordered a Hoyt Tribute. I wish more bow manufacturers put at least one decent finger bow out, but Hoyt and Barnsdale seem the only ones. If I ever win the lottery, I'll open my own line, with a 60" ATA, recurve limbs on a slighty deflex riser, 9" BH, and spongy wheels. It will be super slow by today's standards, but shoot like a dream. 

Fully supportive of an individual thread for the small (but growing) number that never did learn our lesson, and still shoot fingers and a barebow. 

Also, thanks to everyone who posts on here, I've learned a ton by simply scrolling thru and picking out the gems. Great group.


----------



## jmoose77 (Apr 3, 2004)

Hi Paul, glad you found the thread.


----------



## zestycj7 (Sep 24, 2010)

bump


----------



## zestycj7 (Sep 24, 2010)

Back to the top.
Don.


----------



## catkinson (Jul 17, 2007)

Enjoyed my constitution barebow!
pics to come!


----------



## ATB (Apr 14, 2006)

Tune question just traded a longbow for a vantage ltd w accuwheels. It tuning trad rig unstringing and increasing or decreasing brace ht was my main source of tuning for a quiet sweet spot. What do you do on the wheelbow since I don't have a press and think the bh should be at mfr range.
Thanks


----------



## rsarns (Sep 23, 2008)

ATB... you are going to need a press. Problem I have ith long ATA bows is that although my EZpress will allow me to pressthe bow and change strings, I cannot fully relax the bow to change out cams, limbs etc. I have ot go to the Bow shop and use their X-Press. So if you are going to purchase a press, go with the X-Press.


----------



## ATB (Apr 14, 2006)

ttt


----------



## mitchell (Mar 5, 2005)

ATB,

I am not sure I understand your question. If you want to change BH, as has been said, you will need access to a press. I usually put leaches in top and bottoms of cables, have a string stopper, and use 4 small cat whiskers of my own installation (about 1.25" in diameter each) on the string to quieten more.


----------

