# Please HELP Bowtech Experts...tuning my Old Glory!



## SHORTHORN (Mar 12, 2004)

*Maybe...*

Try w/out the loop. Don't know why I've had some bows that I could not shoot threw paper w/ the string loop.

Don't know why it would make a difference but it has.....


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## jonnybow (Aug 27, 2002)

I have found (the hard way) that you may want to try longer arrows with that spine. try one or two at 31" and see where they shoot with the broadheads. 

I've had similar issues with the Allegiance but shot great with 31" arrows with that spine.

Jon


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## Tax Lawyer (Feb 5, 2003)

I went through the exact same thing with my Bowtechs except to the left (I am LH).

It ended up being a torque issue. :angry: 

However, you said you have tried different grips. I think if you have a reliable person who can shoot a 29" draw, I would have them try as well to see if there is a similar result.


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## goldtip22 (Oct 14, 2004)

I have the Old Glory and I reallly had to work on my grip/form to prevent torque. I guess that's a good thing though. I never used a wrist sling before and a dealer highly suggested that I used one to prevent squeezing the grip when releasing the arrow. Seems to have helped.


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## Jerry/NJ (Jan 17, 2003)

Do you have someone very close to your draw length that can shoot it? I do that on occasion before I mess with anything else....I am lucky as my son has the same draw.


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## Bow1 (Sep 14, 2004)

*Same problem with my constitution*

I had the same thing with my constitution, my old glory tuned in three shots, by eyeball. ANyhow I was using 29" X-Cutter Pros, with 95 grain tips tore to the right, I moved up to 100 same thing. I then put the tips to 130 and it helped a little still tore to the right. I fought with this thing moving rest and what ever else I could. I then got out my old glory and studied it hard next to the constituion, turns out my cables were routed different than my old glory so I put her in the press and changed them the same as the old glory, I had to put the slide on upside down as that is how they shipped it. I eventually put another slide on it. Well the first shot was a tear to the left. Oh I was happy I did not change the point weight as it was shooting 284, I moved the rest back in toward the left and bam perfect tears. One othe the other BowTech Gurus put his Spot Hogg lazer on it at TN and the line was perfect. SO that solved my tear right problem. Might give it a try. If you want I can send you some pics of my old glory to see if yours compares.

Never know/

Keith


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## goldtip22 (Oct 14, 2004)

Bow1, that's funny that you say the cables were switched around on your Bowtechs. I had two Old Glories and the cables were setup different on both of them. One had the down cable to the left of the other cable (looking from behind the bow towards your sight) and the other bow was the opposite with the downward cable right of the other cable. I noticed that on one bow the cables had a lot more clearance from each other and never rubbed up against each other during draw. I also switched the cable slides on both so that the tab is up rather than down. Could you post a pic of your Old Glory. I'm curious to see how the cables are set up.


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## Bow1 (Sep 14, 2004)

*I will post them tonight.*

At the shoot in TN saw some that were different than mine. The switch fixed my constitution from tearing right. I asked some about there cables and if they were getting right tears through paper. The two I noticed said they never shot them through paper so they could not say. They said the bow grouped excellent so that was all they needed. It may work for some but for me and the shops I have worked at and the tutelage I received I got to start at the paper then work back then group etc.. It is probably mental but if its in my head it wont be right till I do it that way. Just my 2 cents of my opinion. You know what I say about opinions though. Opinions are like arm pits everybody has a couple and they usually stink.  

Keith


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## blackdog (Dec 29, 2004)

I had the same problem with right tares on my Old Glory. I had to switch from a low wrist grip to more of a medium wrist. I took all of the pressure off of the meat of my thumb and was able to move sight and rest back to the right. Now it does not matter what arrow i shoot, they all shoot bullet holes.


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## nanichito (Oct 10, 2004)

Could it be that all my problems are coused by torque?...I'll go to the range and start from scratch again and see what happens!

Any more suggestions...

Cheers,
Nanichito


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## jonnybow (Aug 27, 2002)

The BowTech grips are very nice however, when your hand gets sweaty, your grip changes because the slippery wood causes your hand to drive up and out instead of being straight. I solved it by putting a Sims Insulation tape strip on the back side. Others apply a thin piece of sandpaper to the back side.


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## CT Bowhunter (Apr 27, 2005)

I'm getting wear on my strings at the string slide. Is anyone else seeing this???? There are alot of little flyers on the string. I just put on some string wax.


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## the last chance (Apr 10, 2003)

I am having the same problem. So I called bowtech, talked to Todd and yes my cables are wrong. He said to change the cables on one cam and he is sending me a new slide that will work with that set up. I hope this helps. TLC


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## nanichito (Oct 10, 2004)

ttt


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## Bow1 (Sep 14, 2004)

*Here are some pics of my contstitution and Old Glory*

These are pic of the cables the top is the right side on all pics and or looking from the top down.
Hope this helps.

Keith


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## Bow1 (Sep 14, 2004)

*same thing but with the old glory*

Old Glory. My constitution had the cables routed different than the old glory, I changed them to the same as the Old Glory and that got rid of the right tear.

Keith


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## goldtip22 (Oct 14, 2004)

thanks for the pics. looks like I'll be changing mine tonight. They were set up that way on my first Old Glory and it shot great but I haven't spent a lot of time shooting my second one so it's hard to tell.


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## Bow1 (Sep 14, 2004)

*Put it through paper*

and that will tell you quicky if you got a problem. It worked for me on my constitution but if it is shooting perfect holes and grouping I would not change anything. At least you have another area to look at if you do have right tears.

Keith


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## SHORTHORN (Mar 12, 2004)

*Confused....*

Is it just a matter or taking off the cable slide and spinning it????

Looks like my cable slide backwards compared to the pics.....


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## SHORTHORN (Mar 12, 2004)

*Clear as mud....*

Trying to figure this out.....

I can not tell from the pics but it looks like the cable that starts out on the top closer to the string is outside,farther from the cable guard and the cable that starts farther from the string on the top is on the inside, closer to the cable guard. Correct?????


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## Bow1 (Sep 14, 2004)

*Man I should not have posted those pics*

First the top cam the cable that goes from the post and just then back over the axle will be the closest to the cable guard then the next cable. Look at the pics of the constitution. If your bow is shooting great and tearing great dont screw with it. This was just another possible solution for persons who have the bad right tear. I never had a problem out of my OG just the constitution so I changed the cables to match the og and it took the tear out.

Keith


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## nanichito (Oct 10, 2004)

Well guys, so far, I have been able to get ahead.

1. I do have some torque issues, but know I know it was not only torque.
I can now work on fixing that issue!!!

2. Cable slide was not an issue, but when I reveived my VFT a couple years ago it came backward, but for some reason I noticed it was wrong and I fixed it. Also if you notice the picture of the old glory on the BT web site it is actually backwards also. I guess the photographer was not an archer!!

3. I had to do away with my QAD rest and installed the TrophyTaker, it paper tuned instantly. I beleive it was a combined issue with the UltraRest design plus it's lack of windage (that sucks couse it cost me over 80 bucks). Ultra rest style drop away performs better with this particular bow.

4. When I got home the rest came loose, and since I did't care how far it was set up in the shop I set it up myself exaclty 1 inch centerline and level nock (I was concerned that the nock placement would be different since it was a drop away). Then fortunately my Toxonics 38mag has just enough windage to set the pins in line exaclty with my arrow (I thought I was going to have to buy a new sight also). Nocked my arrow and shot at ten yards to see how my vertical arrow flight would do...bammm! right in line where I was aiming. Tomorrow I'll see how it performs at 20 yards!

Conclusion:

The Old Glory is a beauty to shoot but you must keep in mind what equipment you are planning on purchasing for it (ie. rest, sight). Make sure both rest and sight have enough windage to them.
My $200 toxonics mag38 barely meets the requirenments and I may have to buy a new sight. Thats almost $300 in equipment that I purchased wrong for this bow. Hopefuly archery shops and forums like this need to educate the consumer when possible, so that a person is not turned off or is having troubles with a particular bow they have purchased.

I personaly like Bowtech, Pat and the rest of the guys rock!!!
The troubles of tuning the Old Glory are worth it considering how fast, smooth, quiet and acurate it is once this has been achived!!!

Thank you guys for your help!
Keep it comming I know there are other with the same issues!!!


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## 2ndchance (Sep 19, 2004)

the cable slide on the BTs are decieving, they should be set so the loop for a drop away cord is pointing UP. this will also get rid of some of the cam lean that a lot of people are getting.

follow the guidlines that BOW1 has stated, they should help a lot


Ty


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## Elkcaller (Jun 15, 2003)

Wow my OG was wrong too! and I was pulling my hair out trying to find out what the heck was wrong
I changed mine and will shoot it tomorrow and see if this helps

Elk


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## goldtip22 (Oct 14, 2004)

I switched my cables around like Bow1's Constitution is set up, flipped the cable slide so the tab is up, set my rest at 1" from the riser and my nock is level.....perfect bullet holes.


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## SHORTHORN (Mar 12, 2004)

*Tab up....*

If the tab on the slide is up then that means the cable that wraps around the axle on the top cam must be the one father from the cable guard.

Right?

Seems odd that the tab would be up, it looks like it would be more troublesome with a drop away and the string getting tangled.....


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## nanichito (Oct 10, 2004)

Actually the tab on the BT cable slide needs to be down, otherwize your cables will rub when at full draw...at least that is what happens if I put the tab up. Putting it down also allows the cables to cross at a more natural angle!

Cheers,

Nanichito


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## SHORTHORN (Mar 12, 2004)

*Exactly*

But if you read Goldtips and 2ndchances post the both have the tab up....

Meaning they switched the cable position or they would rub....


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## goldtip22 (Oct 14, 2004)

If you switch the cables and put the slide so the tab is up, you will have about a 1/8" gap between the cables and they will never touch each other during draw. I also noticed last night that I have hardly, if any cam lean now. All I did was put the bow in the press, take one of the cables off at the top cam and put it on the other side of the other cable. I can post pics later if you guys want to see what it looks like but they will be just like the pics of Bow1's Constitution. If it's done correctly, the tab on the cable slide will be up and the cables will not even be close to touching. As for the tab and dropaways....I tie my dropaway cord to the down cable so the tab is pretty much useless to me.


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## goldtip22 (Oct 14, 2004)

SHORTHORN, if you are looking at the bow so that the riser is to your left and the string is on your right (the left side if you're right handed) the cable coming off the left side of the top cam will be closest to the cable guard.


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## nanichito (Oct 10, 2004)

GoldTip22, are your cables crossing on top of the cable slide or under the cable slide, because I see what you are describing. But I would have to swith the cables, and then the cables would cross each other on top of the cable slide, which I suppose is'nt a big deal?

See the pic of my bow...











Also look at the other pic that was posted the cables cross under the cable slide?


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## goldtip22 (Oct 14, 2004)

My cables cross below the cable slide. I was confused about this when I first got the bow because if you look at Bowtech's website you can see that they are clearly crossed above the slide. But, if you read the manual it says that the cables must cross below the slide. I also talked to a tech at Bowtech about this and he said to cross them below the slide. It's hard to tell by looking at your pic but it looks like they are already crossed below the slide...the bow is upside down. To switch the cables like Bow1 and I have mentioned, you'll have to put the bow in a press. You cannot switch them by just flipping the cable slide or they will rub. If you look at your pic, the cable on the right side at the top of your pic should be above the other cable where they cross, not below. Like Bow1 said earlier, this is just what I personally have found works best. I will post a pic later tonight when I get home from work.


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## Jhorne (Jul 15, 2003)

So if your cables cross below the cable guard and are spaced about 1/8" apart they should be o.k., Right?


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## SHORTHORN (Mar 12, 2004)

*I see.*

My only question is, which way is correct. Tab up and reroute your cables or tab down like it came from Bowtech..... 

What does BT say, you'd think they would have this figured out and clearly state one way or the other, not one way for you and another for me....


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## 2ndchance (Sep 19, 2004)

it seems to me that it varies between which person sets the bows up at BT. both ways will prbably work equally because there is no actual change the the bow. the cables are one way and they cross below the cable guard, switch them and then they will cross above. i have not had a chance to play with more than one but that is what it sounds like to me.


and about the tab on the slide, yes it is useless above the guard but IMO it is equally useless on the bottom, i prefer to tie the string onto the cable.


Ty


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## nanichito (Oct 10, 2004)

ttt


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

*Down Cable Farthest f/ Cable Slide Rod?*



Bow1 said:


> First the top cam the cable that goes from the post and just then back over the axle will be the closest to the cable guard then the next cable. Look at the pics of the constitution. If your bow is shooting great and tearing great dont screw with it. This was just another possible solution for persons who have the bad right tear. I never had a problem out of my OG just the constitution so I changed the cables to match the og and it took the tear out.
> 
> Keith


Bow1,

Yur' da man! Thank God for AT and good compadre's like you. Changed the cable like you said and it's SHOWTIME!!!  Made the bow much quieter as well! Another way to check is the down cable that you tie the fall away rest to should be farthest from the cable slide rod.


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## Bow1 (Sep 14, 2004)

*Cool*

Glad it helped ya, sometimes its so simple and its right before our eyes. Good Shooting.

Keith


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## jduck1 (Jan 30, 2004)

*Allegiance*

Is this same thing w/ the cables happening w/ the Allegiance also? I have an Allegiance that has a big right tear. Rest is almost maxed out and then I can't get my sight far enough over?
Thanks,
Jeff


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

jduck1 said:


> Is this same thing w/ the cables happening w/ the Allegiance also? I have an Allegiance that has a big right tear. Rest is almost maxed out and then I can't get my sight far enough over?
> Thanks,
> Jeff


Yep, that's what I found with my Allegiance.


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## nanichito (Oct 10, 2004)

There are a number of issues associated with the 2005 Bowtech model bows. I don't meen this in a negative way but I have come to a number of conclusion based on the information compiled from the thread. I recomend you read all of it carefully and deduct a posible fix to your particular challenge. Based on that I conclude issues in four areas:

1. Torque: This has a potential easy fix if you can figure out how to stop torquing and get rid of paper tune problems. I have the suspition this is the main challenge area!

2. Rest/center rest: Windage adjustment in some rest are not suitable for Bows utilizing the Binary Cam by Bowtech. Furthermore the center rest with this model is unusually far/farther (1" +/- 1/16). Nock point seems to be Level in most cases even with Drop aways. Also this presents another issue with windage in some sights are not sufficient (this is not a paper tuning problem, but can be irritating especially if you pay over $100 for a sight).

3. Cable slide: It seems that in some instances the cable slides have been installed incorrectly at the time of purchase (I say this becouse at Bowtech all bows are test fired and I find it hard to believe that they would make such a silly mistake that often. However human error is a a God given right and I'll just lieve it at that. Solving this challenge seems to be relatively easy; first make sure your harness are crossing below the cable slide and second make sure which ever way you have it that the cables are at least 1/4" apart before draw. This should correct any contact issue during draw/release.

4. Arrow spine: This seems to be the challenge of least concern, however still a potential challenge. I will not go into ways of fixing arrow spine becouse their is plenty of literature regarding this issue.

Hope this help. I still get paper tear but I am almost 99.99% certain it's due to torque. I almost got it to where it nearly does not show and sometimes I punch a perfect hole. It will take me sometime to perfect my grip till It's 100% torque free.

Cheers,
Nanichito


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## jduck1 (Jan 30, 2004)

*3/8"*

Can some one tell me why I am having to move my nock point up over 3/8" to get my up and down tear in the middle? 

My cable slide was set up correctly.
My BH is 6 13/16" instead of factory 7"
My ATA is 33 5/8" which is factory.
I am shooting a Allegiance w/ 30" DL @ 68lbs
Drop Zone rest-timed do the rest tops out and still have about 2" of draw before I hit the wall.

Also. If the cams are self adjusting would the center of the axle to axle be my nock point? In other words it the string suposed to be centered on the bow at the rest mounting holes?

Any help would be apreciated. 

Thanks,
Jeff


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## jduck1 (Jan 30, 2004)

*Bt*

Called the guys at Bowtech. They said to start by putting the nock back level and adjust the timing on the drop zone so that it starts droping as soon as you release the arrow. They said it unlike the Trophy Taker where you want 1 1/2"-2" of arrow travel before the rest starts droping. I will give it a try and see what happens.

Thanks,
Jeff


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## SHORTHORN (Mar 12, 2004)

*Per BowTech*

I just spoke to Todd at BowTech. They were initially shipping bows w/ the cabling like mine, the down cable on the inside closer to the cable guard but have since switch and now ship w/ the cables reversed, the down cable on the outside. So it wasn't an error/oversight at the mfgr. 

Per Todd this has help w/ performance, many are finding out for themselves and also some of the cam lean people speak of.


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## nanichito (Oct 10, 2004)

*Conclusion 2.0 (revised)*

There are a number of issues associated with the 2005 Bowtech model bows. I don't meen this in a negative way but I have come to a number of conclusion based on the information compiled from the thread. I recomend you read all of it carefully and deduct a posible fix to your particular challenge. Based on that I conclude issues in four areas:

1. Torque: This has a potential easy fix if you can figure out how to stop torquing and get rid of paper tune problems. I have the suspition this is the main challenge area!

2. Rest/center rest: Windage adjustment in some rest are not suitable for Bows utilizing the Binary Cam by Bowtech. Furthermore the center rest with this model is unusually far/farther (1" +/- 1/16). Nock point seems to be Level in most cases even with Drop aways. Also this presents another issue with windage in some sights are not sufficient (this is not a paper tuning problem, but can be irritating especially if you pay over $100 for a sight).

3. Cable slide: They were initially shipping bows w/ the down cable on the inside closer to the cable guard but have since switched and now ship with the cables reversed, the down cable on the outside, crossing below the cable slide (Info compliments of Shorthorn, thanks!).

4. Arrow spine: This seems to be the challenge of least concern, however still a potential challenge. I will not go into ways of fixing arrow spine becouse their is plenty of literature regarding this issue.

Hope this help. I still get paper tear but I am almost 99.99% certain it's due to torque. I almost got it to where it nearly does not show and sometimes I punch a perfect hole. It will take me sometime to perfect my grip till It's 100% torque free.

Also, since I have received this new information I am going to follow Shorthorns advice given to him by Bowtech!

Cheers,
Nanichito


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## shootstraight (Apr 28, 2005)

*Good thread*

Yeah, good stuff. I just got my OG 2 days ago from a guy on this site. I papertuned to start and every arrow shot has a right tear. I found this thread and thought great, well I checked my bow and it needed all the mentioned fixes, I changed everything as mentioned and no change at all in the paper tear. Has anyone made the changes to the cable positioning and still had the same problems. The only arrow I can get to shoot a halfway decent hole are acc 339's. My x7 2412's and x-cutters leave about a 1/2 right tear.


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## XADDICT (Apr 12, 2005)

1. Does your bow group well at 20 yds?
2. Does your bow group well at 30 yds?
3. Does your bow group well at 40 yds?
4. Does your bow group well at 50 and 60 yds?

If it does, then don't worry about how it paper tunes at 5, 10, 15 and 20 yards. 9 times out 10 when an Old Glory will not paper tune its because of two reasons: grip torque or nock height. These cams MUST be set at dead level nock, and center shot is 1" from the inside of of the window, give or take 1/16". Set any O.G. up like this (with the cables the correct way) put it on a hooter shooter it will print perfect holes every shot.


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## shootstraight (Apr 28, 2005)

*grouping*

I understand what your saying about grouping and I agree, somewhat. Papertuning to me assures that the arrow is flying true. That give you confidence in your setup. Confidence makes you better! There's nothing more frustrating and makes you lose confidence in your setup than seeing an arrow swim to a target.


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## jduck1 (Jan 30, 2004)

*Bullet Holes!!!!*

I have bullet holes!!!!  :wink: I moved the string for my Drop Zone as directed by the Bowtech guys and got only a bi right tear. I moved my center shot almost all the way out to the left and 4 bullet holes :thumbs_up .

Last night I emailed Crackers and he also told me to give my up cable a couple twists. I did this first and the bow felt a lot better. I guess that was playing with my let off. Let off feels way better but still got low tear. Adjusting the rest to drop at as soon as the arrow released cleared it up.

Next challange was the center shot was so far off that I could not get my Spot Hogg-It Hunter over far enough over to get the arrows to hit center. Took the 2 screws and metal spacer which are on the outside and thread in towards the pins and put them on the inside. Now the heads of the screws are on the inside, then the mounting spacer, and the secured into the threads. Hope that makes sense??  This gave me a ton of adjustment right and left still.

Now off to start some group tunning!!!  

Thanks for all the help!!
Jeff


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## Dewboy (Apr 19, 2005)

*Old Glory(Binary cam) tuning problems*

I wish someone would put one of these on a shooting machine and check the nock travel during the draw cycle of the bow! Then put a few twists in just one of the cables and check out the knock travel again! If the nock travel is straight for both scenarios, then I'm SOLD on the Binary cams! But........ Nock travel is one of the most common causes of up and down tears thru the paper. And if people are having those kinds of tears, It probably means that the nock point travel on the Binary cam bows are still less than ideal. As soon as I can get my hands on one, I will put it to that test myself! The Darton CPS I tested did very well on my draw machine. The Darton and most quality Hybrids do a great job of compensating for the slight difference in upper and lower cam rotation due to the nock point NOT being EXACTLY centered between the top and bottom cam. In order to compensate, you would expect to see some difference between the top and bottom cam as is the case with most hybrids. The upper and lower Binary Cams appear to be mirror images of one another just as most dual cams are! And if they truly are mirrow images, how cam true straightline nock travel be accomplished????? For the same reason, Barnsdale uses larger top wheels than bottom wheels! I need to take a trip to the bowtech dealer to take a closer look and see if there is any noticable difference between the top and bottom cam. But as always, the nock travel would tell it all!! Has anyone out there actually checked the Nock Travel on the Binay cam equiped bows??? Thanks! Anthony


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## Dewboy (Apr 19, 2005)

*Binary*

The Darton and most quality Hybrids do a great job of compensating for the slight difference in upper and lower cam rotation due to the nock point NOT being EXACTLY centered between the top and bottom cam ...OR....slight differences in cable lengths.


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## nanichito (Oct 10, 2004)

Thank ya'll for all the great input, I think this post ended up being a great resource for tuning issues associated with the 05 Bowtech line. I strained an upper back muscle and have not had a chance of trying the cable fix, maybe that will help me also. Once again thanks all and keep it comming!

Cheers,

Nanichito


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## skyhunter (Dec 1, 2003)

SHORTHORN said:


> I just spoke to Todd at BowTech. They were initially shipping bows w/ the cabling like mine, the down cable on the inside closer to the cable guard but have since switch and now ship w/ the cables reversed, the down cable on the outside. So it wasn't an error/oversight at the mfgr.
> 
> Per Todd this has help w/ performance, many are finding out for themselves and also some of the cam lean people speak of.


Ok then, the down cable is taking the deeper groove of the slide; but should it be on the riser or string side of the slide?


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

In order to get my center shot corrected, the tab is up with the deep slot nearest to the string.


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## nanichito (Oct 10, 2004)

The down cable needs to cross the other cable on the inside and below the bar. How ever it is oriented (the cable slide), you will then want the cables to be at 1/8" apart. In order for this to work some of you are going to have to put the bow in a press and switch arond the cables so that the down cable crosses nearest to the bar. I am not sure this explination is clear, since I hardly understand myself ;-)

As soon as I can get my bow in a press and set it up that way I'll take a picture and post it so all can see.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

*reply to subject*

Hello
Don't have a OG or a Con.
Wanted a Con .but i h ave to short of a draw.

Now my question is by useing the BoTech cable slide. Have you found more than a 1/16" clearance for your vanes.

Thanks Unk :angel:


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

skyhunter said:


> Ok then, the down cable is taking the deeper groove of the slide; but should it be on the riser or string side of the slide?


skyhunter,

I know you've seen this on the other thread on the bow tuning forum, but I figured a picture could say a thousand words for the guys on this thread. Remember everyone, this FIXED my centershot problem. It may be a good idea for people to list their draw length?


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

Guys,

This did fix my centershot issue, but after much haggling back and forth on another thead I'm not confident this is sound advise. I can't shoot much at this time due to a shoulder injury so I'm going to throw the towel in, change the cables back and purchase a windstalker cable slide and it BETTER fix the centershot issue or I'm going to be one unhappy camper. I'll post a future thread with my results.


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## LastCall (Mar 18, 2005)

I have the right tear problem also. I have about a 1" to 1.5" right tear at about 6-8 feet, no matter how far to the left I move my rest. My cables are set exactly like the picture that tbailey posted above. So I am assuming that this is a torque issue?

I am new to archery, so my question is how do I correct the torque issue?

Thanks in advance,


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

LastCall,

What brand rest are you using? How far away from the riser is your rest adjusted?


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## LastCall (Mar 18, 2005)

I am shooting with a Bodoodle Zapper with the top 2 containment arms removed (so its like a lizard tongue). I had the rest out to about 1 1/4" from the riser, and that was about the max it would go, it was setup at approximatly 1" to start. I have to check for fletching clearance with some foot spray, but I dont think they are hitting?


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

*Factory Cable Routing*

LC,

Here's a pic of the cables as they came from Bowtech. Unfortunately the ONLY way I can get bullet holes in paper is with the DZ rest adjusted all the way left.

I plan to purchase the windstalker and run the cables as they came from BT. I wish there was a simpler fix, but I don't know what it is.  Hopefully I'll be please with the WS and it takes care of my centershot.


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## walks with a gi (Oct 1, 2002)

From the looks of the picture above,, you might try installing an arrow rest and then see if you have better arrow flight :wink:


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## 2ndchance (Sep 19, 2004)

tbailey,

have you checked your tiller?

also, what is your arrow setup and draw weight/length?

how about fletch clearance?

from what you told me your centershot is right where mine is, 1 1/8" from the inside of the riser. this has my mind in a bind trying to figure out what could cause this. you may want to PM crackers.

one more thing, here is a pic of how the cam should sit when the limb bolts are maxed. if its not close then you may want to make sure your bow is in spec, 7"bh, 33 5/8"ATA and if available make sure your draw weight and letoff are right.

Ty


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## nanichito (Oct 10, 2004)

We must remember, especially us newer archers that, that we may be torquing the bow, even though we made all the changes (cable slide, etc..).
This wednesday I will be able to shoot my bow again (getting over a upper back strain) and see how it paper tunes with the changes mentioned. I am going hunting in Texas the first week of June with my brother and really need my bow and I to be shooting to our full potential!!!!

Thanks guys, keep it up!

Cheers,

Nanichito


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## tbailey (Feb 25, 2004)

2ndchance said:


> tbailey,
> 
> have you checked your tiller?
> 
> ...


BH: 7 1/32
Tiller: 9 9/16 upper and lower
60#
ATA: 34 1/2

Paper tuned @ 50# with GT 3D Pro 55/75
and UL Pro 500, fletching was not issue, just torque

Rest was removed to get ready for WS.


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## Oxford (Jun 26, 2002)

ttt by request


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## Takeum (Jul 22, 2005)

what type of sight are you using? i used a cooper John sight and had to flip a bracket over so that the sight would come over far enough, LEFT,,, Allegiances have an offset cam, as most of the bowtechs today do,,, Just look how far the strings are offset compared to the center of riser,, BIGTIME,,, best thing to do is take it to an expert Bowtech dealer and have them do the adjustments,,,


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## Bow1 (Sep 14, 2004)

*Andy should not be problem with that one you got*

that was a later allegiance you got, cables are correct on it. This post was for a guy with an old glory last year, I have had a few ask me about the Old Glory for this year so I asked OX to repost this. That one you have was tearring perfect holes at 5 feet 10 and 15 and 20 and so on. I was was also nailing the bullseye out to 60 yards with broadheads the way it was set up. Is it ok did something move?

Keith


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## Takeum (Jul 22, 2005)

Bow1 said:


> that was a later allegiance you got, cables are correct on it. This post was for a guy with an old glory last year, I have had a few ask me about the Old Glory for this year so I asked OX to repost this. That one you have was tearring perfect holes at 5 feet 10 and 15 and 20 and so on. I was was also nailing the bullseye out to 60 yards with broadheads the way it was set up. Is it ok did something move?
> 
> Keith


 Hey Keith,
Not sure about it moving anybit or not,, when I got her, i brought it to the place I papertune,, It was tearing a 3 inch hole at 13 yards,, so,, after fine tuning her a bit,, I had to move windage out Bigtime,, Copper JOhn worked,, but only after I flipped a bracket around on windage part of sight slider,, actually had to turn bracket iside out,,, after that,, I had an extra inch of adjustment,,, I asked my local Bowtech dealer if that was the normal on Allegiances,, He said ,, most certainly was,,, especially that sight you had put on,, Copper john sight,, He recommended spothog becasue of larger windage slider,,, But,, I figured a better way ,, and cost me Nada,,dam i'm Good,, anyway Keith,, THanks for asking,, everythings fine brother,, thanks for all tech help,, I've learned quite a bit from you bowtech dudes out there,, Keep up the good work,,,
Andy:beer: :beer: :beer:


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