# 40 pound recurve for whitetails?



## motarded (Nov 16, 2007)

a broadhead out of a #40 lb bow that hits its mark is more effective than a broadhead out of a 45# bow that misses.


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## Captainkirk (Sep 18, 2014)

This subject has been hashed and rehashed multiple times on probably every archery forum out there with the same outcome...overwhelming support for the comment above.


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## 6bloodychunks (Oct 26, 2005)

40#, heavy arrow,2 blade cut on contact broadhead,you should be good to go


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## NCBuckNBass (Mar 5, 2005)

Can you give me provide specs on a built carbon arrow for 28" draw at 40 you would consider heavy?


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## NCBuckNBass (Mar 5, 2005)

motarded said:


> a broadhead out of a #40 lb bow that hits its mark is more effective than a broadhead out of a 45# bow that misses.


I don't miss deer. You misunderstand my question; Do I put a 45 pound shot arrow through the kill zone or do I put a 40 pound shot arrow through the exact spot in the kill zone I want?


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## Captainkirk (Sep 18, 2014)

You just answered your own question.


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## NCBuckNBass (Mar 5, 2005)

No I haven't, I'm trying to get an idea of the penetration potential of the arrow shot from a 40 pound bow. I have no idea what to expect. Is it better to shoot grapefruit sized groups at 45 or apple sized groups at 40?


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## Yohon (Aug 28, 2003)

Speaking from experience, I shoot 40-42 lbs depending on the bow and generally sink it to the fletching on most deer, pass thru (arrow in the dirt on the other side) about 25% of the time. Mostly shoot carbons that are around 475 gr give or take depending on which broadhead I'm using. I always say go with what your most accurate with, but also equally important is to have the arrow tuned spot onl, broadheads real sharp and bow as quiet as can be. Bow weight is a single ingredient in a big picture. I have a file of storys on bow weight as well as what I've done in the woods that long ago I stopped worrying about did I have enough bow to kill, I'm most concerned with shooting under pressure and putting that broadhead thru the SPOT I'm looking at.....sounds to me that you'll be fine.


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## bwd (Dec 6, 2013)

A little less than that worked for me twice this year. One with a Abowyer broadhead on a 525gr. arrow, and the other with a Simmons Tiger Shark on a 514gr. arrow.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Really, you're going to need about 25-30# more than that for whitetails. Stuff goes wrong, and you'll need as much power as possible. 

... Just kidding! People have been killing deer with 40# bows (that are a heck of a lot less efficient than a modern composite recurve/longbow) for thousands of years. The two quickest kills I've had with an arrow were both double lung hits, but one hit the far leg and didn't pass through. Deer still only made it 15 yards and piled up in sight. Meanwhile, I've had pass through's a little back (liver hits) that weren't as quick using heavier bows and bigger broadheads. 

As was mentioned, there are a lot more factors that contribute to a quick and clean kill than draw weight. Don't worry about it!


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## Leafwalker (Oct 7, 2008)

I used a 40# recurve for a few years, so here are my experiences. I used a 395gr arrow tipped with a 2-blade Magnus Stinger that flew 177fps (30" draw length).

On a button buck at 22 yards on the ground, the arrow hit one side, slid between 2 ribs, the broadhead cut vertically through one lung, cut the top inch of the second lung, then exited between 2 ribs on the other side, sticking out about 6-8".

On a 1 1/2 year old buck from the ground at 4 yards, the same setup went between 2 ribs on entrance, through each lung at a diagonal, then busted a rib on the exit and the arrow was buried up to the fletching.


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## ghostgoblin22 (May 3, 2013)

My friend had a full pass thru on a fat doe this season using a 39# now, 463.7 grain arrow, 500 spine gold tip traditional, tipped with a 125 grain Magnus 2 blade broadhead, it can be done 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Captainkirk (Sep 18, 2014)

Wasn't trying to be flippant...personally, I think drilling the hole exactly where you want it is more important than a pass-thru...if 5# is gonna make that much difference (I doubt it will). If you can thread the needle with your 40# bow, by all means use it. After all, missing the mark by 3 inches in some conditions is the difference between a dead or a wounded deer.
Sounds to me like you have more confidence in the 40#'er. Use it.


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## jcs-bowhunter (Jul 7, 2007)

With both my 40# Buffalo and my previous 40# Dorado I put a 380gr arrow (31" ICS 500 w/100gr Magnus Stinger) at least up to the fletches with a nice exit hole. With a well tuned setup and an ultra sharp 2 blade COC I get great blood trails and a quick recovery.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Captainkirk said:


> Wasn't trying to be flippant...personally, I think drilling the hole exactly where you want it is more important than a pass-thru...if 5# is gonna make that much difference (I doubt it will). If you can thread the needle with your 40# bow, by all means use it. After all, missing the mark by 3 inches in some conditions is the difference between a dead or a wounded deer.
> Sounds to me like you have more confidence in the 40#'er. Use it.


What he said.

Deer sometimes move, even if they weren't moving when you slipped the string.


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## rickstix (Nov 11, 2009)

40# is adequate…much large game has been taken with less…so the story is not all about draw weight. Many states have a 40# minimum…which is also the minimum draw weight in Arizona for buffalo. Like hunting any other critter, the main criteria needs to be good shot placement, when a judiciously reasonable opportunity presents. A straight flying well placed arrow, penetration, and then blood trail would be how I prioritize my concerns. 



NCBuckNBass said:


> I have this nagging feeling…


Enough said. ”Doubt” is precisely what you do not need when “the moment” arrives…or even leading up to it.

In reality, it isn’t really much of a jump to increase draw weight by 5#...but I usually refrain from advising anyone to consider it until they’ve earned it with their present bow. I worked up to heavy draw weights over many years…and I happened to be convinced that it’s the best method for avoiding injury.

All I got…Rick.


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## Stickbow08 (Dec 30, 2015)

As others have said, as long as you're using a cut on contact head and heavier arrow and hit in the correct spot it's going to get the job done. Imagine throwing a sharp knife at something, it's not going to require that much force to cut completely through as long as it's razor sharp and has some weight to it.


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## Cwilder (Jun 4, 2006)

Yohon said:


> Speaking from experience, I shoot 40-42 lbs depending on the bow and generally sink it to the fletching on most deer, pass thru (arrow in the dirt on the other side) about 25% of the time. Mostly shoot carbons that are around 475 gr give or take depending on which broadhead I'm using. I always say go with what your most accurate with, but also equally important is to have the arrow tuned spot onl, broadheads real sharp and bow as quiet as can be. Bow weight is a single ingredient in a big picture. I have a file of storys on bow weight as well as what I've done in the woods that long ago I stopped worrying about did I have enough bow to kill, I'm most concerned with shooting under pressure and putting that broadhead thru the SPOT I'm looking at.....sounds to me that you'll be fine.


Great advice from a guy who can flat out shoot a stick bow


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

I think accuracy trumps anything else, within reason. As long as you are using a legal bow I'd go with what you shoot the best. That said, a heavier bow is not a bad thing as long as you aren't giving up any accuracy. That's something only you will know, but be honest with yourself. 

Keep in mind that the lighter the bow the easier it will be to handle in cold weather and when wearing bulky clothes, if you are hunting in those conditions. I can't stress enough the difference in how your bow feels between shooting indoors or on a summer evening and after you've been been in a treestand for several hours in cold weather. If you haven't experienced it for yourself it can be a rude awakening.


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## Captainkirk (Sep 18, 2014)

Easykeeper said:


> I can't stress enough the difference in how your bow feels between shooting indoors or on a summer evening and after you've been been in a treestand for several hours in cold weather. If you haven't experienced it for yourself it can be a rude awakening.


^^^This^^^
Moreso with a recurve than a compound. Found that out the hard way!


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## keb (Jul 17, 2007)

I shot 40lbs right on the nose and shot thur big deer with 150 grain snuffers on 410 grain total weight arrows, accuracy and proper arrow flight are the most important. A solid will designed 40lb bow today and a carbon arrow that flies straight will eat a deer up


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## NCBuckNBass (Mar 5, 2005)

Fourty it is! Bow ordered today. Can always get 45 pound limbs later.


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## Captainkirk (Sep 18, 2014)

I think you made the right choice.


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## flygilmore (Aug 23, 2011)

I killed a nice doe this year with my 40# Grizzly. At my dl, I'm actually shooting about 38#.


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## natural.path (Oct 5, 2013)

40 Lbs. is plenty for a deer at close to medium ranges, with good shot placement. Without good shot placement, even a 100 Lb. bow would be useless.


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## Tajue17 (Aug 18, 2005)

NCBuckNBass said:


> I don't miss deer. You misunderstand my question; Do I put a 45 pound shot arrow through the kill zone or do I put a 40 pound shot arrow through the exact spot in the kill zone I want?


shoot the biggest broad head you feel confident with and if you can put it right where you want then you answered your own question...... I shot a 137# doe this year with a [email protected] baraga longbow drawn to 26 1/2" so maybe 45# and I used a heritage 90 Arrow with a 160gr snuffer & 90gr steel insert (10gr filed off tip of insert) and put the arrow clean thru the doe.

why shoot two blade when you can shoot a 3 blade,, just beef up the arrow and deer are easy to shoot thru if you hit em right.


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## Highstrung1 (Oct 20, 2010)

You shoot a big ole' kansas buck with 40lbs. and he's liable to climb the tree and shove that arrow right up yer.......well, just sayin...shoot a little one.


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

NCBuckNBass said:


> I want to pick up a new recurve and am torn between a 40 and 45 model. I can pull the 45 but the 40 is easy and I'm so much better with it. My state requires 40 pounds to hunt deer. Is 40 really enough or should I get the 45 and work with it? I have this nagging feeling deadly accuracy trumps the extra five pounds.


You'll know after your first shot at a deer.... I'd start with what you are most confident!

Aloha.. :beer:


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

One thing I don't think was mentioned is that not all bows are created equally. This is easy to see coming from compounds, where they all leave the factory with an apples-to-apples speed rating (even if it isn't real world specific). Traditional bows are no different. Often you'll see bows performing at very different levels, despite the same draw weight. While an older style or lower-end model, especially one equipped with a polyester string (B50) might require 50# or even 60# of draw weight to hit 30 ft-lbs of KE, a well designed bow might exceed that mark at only 40#. Draw length, shot execution, and tuning all play a big part as well.

Draw weight is just a measure of how much effort you're exerting, and has far less to do with how effective a set up is than many other factors.


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## NCBuckNBass (Mar 5, 2005)

I think the Phantom has a short riser and longer limbs compared to Sage to make it pull nice but I imagine that's at the cost of speed.

I ordered a FF string when I ordered the bow

Do you guys feel with fourty pounds I should not consider any of the COC three blades and only use a two blade?


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## rickstix (Nov 11, 2009)

In the “experimental stage” I always suggest a 2 bladed COC…from minimum draw weights on up. And, if a high rate of pass-thus proves to be the case then you can reconsider further. You really should acquire a sense of what your bow/arrow configuration actually delivers…and 2 blades will give you that benchmark.

I’ve always shot 2 bladed heads and favored quartering away shots, which virtually guarantee a greater amount of resistance going in. So, for me, I believe 2 blades have allowed me an increased range of shot angles…and the results have spoken for themselves.

I have nothing against using more blades…but I’d definitely start with broadside shots…and go from there, if all proved favorable.

All I got…Rick.


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## keb (Jul 17, 2007)

Both theses 300 lb deer












killed with 40lbs on the nose, keep ur shots under 20. I shoot big 150 grain snuffers they will thru a deer a good hunter and good shot with 40lbs is going to kill more game the an a bad hunter who is over bowed 

I have a shoulder injury and can only handle 40, fine by me it works


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## NCBuckNBass (Mar 5, 2005)

Sounds like a plan. Exactly how did you get within 20 yards of those deer in that country?


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## tryin (Jun 26, 2007)

motarded said:


> a broadhead out of a #40 lb bow that hits its mark is more effective than a broadhead out of a 45# bow that misses.


I will be using this phrase! Awesome comment!

also I feel different bows with different poundage feel heavier then others.


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## NCBuckNBass (Mar 5, 2005)

tryin said:


> I will be using this phrase! Awesome comment!
> 
> also I feel different bows with different poundage feel heavier then others.




You might want to rethink that plan. It's a patronizing, worthless comment that would make you come off like a boring know it all that just likes to hear themselves talk.


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