# Knife Grinder



## Barry Portugal (Dec 23, 2007)

*Grinder*

Looks great especially with the welding. 
I can see where the toolpost fits in front of the motor, but what fits in the upper tube where the tension wheel is?


----------



## hovimaul (Dec 21, 2006)

nothing, the t-handle you see is the tracking adjuster


----------



## Barry Portugal (Dec 23, 2007)

Thanks for that I see it now, I was wondering if you could fit a flat plate in there and use that bit for flat grinding?
Thanks again for showing us how you put it together! I'm trying to pluck up the courage to have a go at making one, but geting all the stuff together over here is not easy. Might need a trip back to the UK and pick up a few bits there. (At least they can understand what I'm asking)


----------



## hovimaul (Dec 21, 2006)

I am in the process of completing the platten flat grinding attachment. It is detailed in the plan as well. For now I use a make shift flat plate placed between the idler wheel and the contact wheel. I hope to finish the flat grinding attachment soon. It replaces the 8" contact wheel.


----------



## Barry Portugal (Dec 23, 2007)

Really looking forward to seeing the final draft! Think I'll have to get those plans and start playing!


----------



## bill2455 (Apr 30, 2007)

*Belts*

Really nice. I looked at building one like that but would have to buy materials so I did this instead. I just got my belts in the mail today for the grinder I'm building. I don't think I'll be able to finish it this weekend cause the bass are running !


----------



## kdwyohunter (May 1, 2009)

Thats nice!


----------



## savagehunter83 (Feb 21, 2007)

*plans*

so you are saying th plans are worth the money then???
I think I Will be ordering them next weak
Matt


----------



## hovimaul (Dec 21, 2006)

I think the plans are worth the money. It gives you all of the dimensions. I was having a hard time trying to figure the correct length of it all to make sure the belt fit. I posted this on another site and Tracy replied to me. He suggested that I double the spring to make the tension tighter. He was right. I doubled the spring and now it runs smoother. I would say that when hogging material with a 40 grit belt I can slow the motor down. If possible I would go with a 1 1/2 hp motor. I had a 1 hp for free so that is what I used. It is not bad, I figure it just makes me take my time when grinding. I have attached a flat platten between the idler and contact wheels by connecting it to the tool arm. Right now it is just c clamped, but it wirks great. This allows you to flat or hollow grind without removing the tool arm. It takes me about 1 hour to lay out, remove the stock, and grind my knife to the point of flat sanding. I am in no hurry, but I like the way they turn out.


----------



## recurve fan (Oct 20, 2007)

Havimaul. if you dont mind me asking how mutch did the contact wheels cost and where did you get them. I saw an add for the 25$ doller plans in knives mag and have been thinking about getting them so thanks for posting the pics


----------



## hovimaul (Dec 21, 2006)

I got all of the parts from http://www.usaknifemaker.com/store/. The contact wheel was $98, the tracking wheel was $58, the drive wheel was $53 the 3 step pulleys were $19 each, the belt was $22, I also got some bearing shimms $2 and a shaft $7. I got the pillow blocks localy, but should have bought them from there as well. I made the T-bolt out of threaded rod with 3/8 bolts cut off for the T. As I said I had the motor so that was a freebie. I did by the spring as well. Make sure you have a strong spring or double it over, It needs to be tight. This will help with tracking. If at all possible shoot for a 1 1/2 hp motor. I have a 1 hp and will be looking for something bigger. If you just need dimensions pm me and I will be happy to help out and save you $25.


----------



## recurve fan (Oct 20, 2007)

sent you a pm


----------

