# Measuring tiller



## Spikealot (May 27, 2009)

Tie a string (dental floss works great) from axle to axle.
Measure the tiller to it - not the bow string.


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## Silent Death 54 (Oct 28, 2009)

Spikealot said:


> Tie a string (dental floss works great) from axle to axle.
> Measure the tiller to it - not the bow string.


Good point !!
Thanks !


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## livinn59801 (Nov 23, 2008)

Spikealot said:


> Tie a string (dental floss works great) from axle to axle.
> Measure the tiller to it - not the bow string.


I did both and in both instances the top was about 1/8" shorter


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

livinn59801 said:


> Should your tiller always be perfectly even when measuring on your bow. I just maxed my Truth 2 out on both sides, and after measuring, noticed the top is about 1/8" shorter than the bottom. I was thinking this might be because the cam is much larger than the idler. How important is it that your tiller measurement is even?



Tiller is a way to figure out if
you are bending the top limb
the same amount as
you are bending the bottom limb.


Now,
if manufacturers could get a perfect bending stiffness 
for the top and bottom limb to be an absolute match
(exactly the same bending stiffness),
then,
you would want the tiller to be the same top and bottom.


So,
bottom line,
is "...how is the bow shooting for you"?


If the bow is shooting well for you,
then don't worry about the tiller measurement,
and write down the current tiller measurement.


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## The Hood (Jul 5, 2002)

the tiller can be played with



> I like to tiller tune just to get the grip of the bow to fit properly in my hand. Tiller tuning will help you comfortably place your hand in the grip. Repeating your grip placement is much easier with a properly tiller tuned bow. See Bryan Helland’s article “become more personal with your tuning” for a better explanation.
> 
> The easy explanation is if you are “healing” (more pressure on the bottom of your hand compared to the top) the bow you may want to take some poundage out of the bottom limb to rotate the grip up into the web of your hand more. You do this by turning your bottom limb bolt ¼ turn at a time until the grip feels comfortable. Basically all you are doing is increasing the poundage of the upper limb in comparison to the lower limb, thus rotating the grip in your hand. Do just the opposite if you seem to have more pressure pushing into the web of your hand. Remember, there should be equal pressure all the way across your hand.


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## SARASR (Oct 30, 2009)

I agree with THE HOOD tiller is something you can work with, start with the string tied between the two axels to get a base line then I paper and walk back tune, when all is good I stand at 30 yards and shoot ten arrows at a target (paper) then adjust the tiller 1/4 turn down on one limb and shoot another ten at a new target repeat this until you come all the way around on the bolt and then return to the starting setting and then repeat the process on the other limb then compare each of your targets to see which setting gave you the best group and set your bow there this helps to make your bow more forgiving and tightens up your groups good luck.


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