# Repair cracked recurve limb



## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

You have areas of cracks in lams and delaminations. Not even remotely repairable. Best to scrap it.


----------



## Jim Casto Jr (Aug 20, 2002)

I fear Sanford is right. I wouldn't trust any repair to be "safe" to shoot. Assuming the shipping was insured, it may be best to explore filing a claim.


----------



## Halfcawkt (Dec 27, 2015)

Agreed with those above. It may be a wall hanger, but it is done aside from that.

File a damage claim on the shipping insurance.


----------



## Jaco W (Apr 5, 2015)

I agree that this will be a risky repair, but if you want to spend the time trying it, you are on the right track. I have repaired a few bows with similar damage to your bow. I am a firm believer in Smooth-On EA 40 epoxy, you can get it at 3Rivers or Bingham projects, but maybe you have access to something really good in your line of work. I would recommend that you heat the bow to assist the glue to flow into the crack. Use a very thin piece of a sturdy material ( I have used a thin pice of bamboo lamination, about 0.015" thick)to really get the glue in there.

Hope this works out, if not, surely it will be fun trying


----------



## bobnikon (Jun 10, 2012)

As a fellow orangutan (32" draw), I would say you are going to be pushing any vintage bow to its limits. That being said, I haven't shot many, so could be off the mark. I just know I feel like I am abusing anything under 68" even new.

That being said, it sounds like you have as good a chance as anyone of fixing it. Unless you want it for a wall hanger, I would say go for it.


----------



## rb61 (Sep 11, 2014)

If the challenge is something that you would enjoy taking on, go for it. It sounds as if you have more knowledge and skills than most of us. 

A suggestion and a request- wear serious eye protection when you test fire it and keep us updated on what you discover during this journey. A lot of people could benefit from your efforts.

A question for bowyers. Assuming that this repair is more comprehensive than most-if the succeeds in being mechanically sound will the bow's "behavior" be altered?


----------



## Jaco W (Apr 5, 2015)

rb61, when the limb is glued, care should be taken that the shape/ curve of the limb is not forced onto a different shape, like gluing it to a flat service. I hope that you understand what I mean. If done correctly, the tiller will not change and the bow should be shooting as well as before the damage.


----------



## avcase (Nov 22, 2009)

It looks very repairable to me. The repaired limb can often end up more durable than the original glue-up and I've done several like this. I would avoid using the CN glue to tack anything in place. I tape off the surfaces I don't want epoxy to go and make pressure strips out of 1/8" thick polyethelyne plastic with the edges beveled for the front and back of the bow limb. 

Then I gently warm the entire piece and apply a very thin epoxy (not "thinned" epoxy). As it cools, I keep applying more epoxy as it gets sucked into every void and crack. I would then use some blue masking tape to hold the pressure strips in place and simply place the chip back where it belongs and then start wrapping the entire piece in shrink wrap. This presses the pieces back together yet allows you to adjust things a bit, in case the something like the little wood chip moves around a bit. Then I start wrapping the limb with elastic string like Dacron or nylon fishing line to clamp the delaminates area together more tightly. 

With the limb all wrapped up, it can be easily adjusted to remove any twist. It should naturally go back to its original shape, but if it doesn't, this can be quickly adjusted with a few nudges in the right spots. Then I let it sit in a moderate temperature for at least 24 hours before using some moderate heat to complete the curing of the epoxy. 

When the wraps of string, shrink wrap, pressure strips, and tape are removed, the damage from the original delamination should be invisible. I wait a week or so to string it up and start shooting, but if done right, it should shoot as well as ever. 

Alan


----------



## rb61 (Sep 11, 2014)

Jaco W said:


> rb61, when the limb is glued, care should be taken that the shape/ curve of the limb is not forced onto a different shape, like gluing it to a flat service. I hope that you understand what I mean. If done correctly, the tiller will not change and the bow should be shooting as well as before the damage.


Thanks for the reply- 
sorry about the typo in my question.


----------



## Tdonns (Aug 25, 2016)

Thank you all for your insightful posts!! I have to say I agree with all of your assessments. 

When I opened the box and inspected the bow, everything looked good until I saw a bubble on the last limb section I looked at. Rolling it sideways revealed the crack. My first reaction was that this thing is toast. I was very disheartened because finding a nice vintage left hand relatively long limbed bow is tough. I'm a wood guy and love the materials, grain structure and colors found in vintage craftsman made articles. 

The seller/shipper and I worked through the refund and insurance claim process to the satisfaction of both parties. PayPal and Chase Visa were comforting for the buyer during this process. 

In the back of mind, I just couldn't stop thinking about attempting a repair and bringing back to life a fine piece of work. Goes along the lines of our new business we opened after we retired...again. 

With all of your insight, caution, and methods of repair, I will go forward with a repair. If you'd like, I'll be happy to document and share the attempt. It may take a little time to get to this project. Now that I'm fully retired we find that we do not have any spare time!! 

Thank you again for all of your contributions.

Tom


----------



## avcase (Nov 22, 2009)

I am glad you are giving it a try and I look forward to follow your progress.

Alan


----------



## Tdonns (Aug 25, 2016)

*Repair progress*

Evening folks. 
Follows are some pics on the method of repair and progress to date. Thank you to Jaco W for suggesting Smooth on EA 40, avcase for suggesting repairs and rb61 for your recommendations regarding maintaining contour. 

I decided to fabricate a couple of Form Blocks shaped to the inside and outside mold lines of the limbs to clamp up the damaged limb. Dry fitting revealed that the twist was relaxed and the limbs were in eye ball alignment. 

Upon close examination using magnification revealed that there wasn't a chip in between the sheets. The limb was simply fractured and separated.


----------



## Tdonns (Aug 25, 2016)

Limb twist relaxed with clamped form blocks























Release agent applied and masking tape dam in place. I used soap to the areas I do not want the epoxy to stick. Tape dam to capture the squeeze out upon clamping. 

View attachment 5201361

The entire assembly, clamps and all stationed above a thermostatically controlled heater for curing. I'm keeping the temperature of the limb at about 94 F.

Out of sequence pic. I twisted open the wound to pour in the epoxy. Used a very thin applicator to ensure the epoxy flowed throughout the open void. Liberal applications of heat was used to allow the liquid to wick. 









Post cure clean up next in line tomorrow afternoon. My plan for testing is to build one of those vertical bow reflex testers that self bowers use so this bow can be exercised throughout the draw length range without it being in my hands. 

I'd like to build a long bow this winter, good excuse to build the tester....

Questions, comments, suggestions are always welcome. Thank you all for your input to date and upcoming critique. 

Tom


----------



## sjt85 (Sep 2, 2014)

Excited to see the end result. Curious to hear about the "pucker factor" when drawing it full for the first time.


----------



## Jaco W (Apr 5, 2015)

Looking real good. I am looking forward to the results.


----------



## Tdonns (Aug 25, 2016)

Here is the completed repair. 








Ended up with 8.25 brace height with a 60X B50 62" Dacron string, no twists. Bow AMO is 66" @ 27#'s. 

Next is a picture of my rube goldberg fixture to exercise the bow. At 32" she's pulling 36#'s. My draw length is 31.5". I let the bow pull another 2 - 6 inches to over stress the limbs. Nice smooth draw, no sounds of stress coming from the limb. 








Grabbed a couple of 500 Easton Axis and tried her out in the backyard. Not bad for a beginner!! We'll see how I shoot the 300 target indoors tonight!







I think we're there. Salvaged a classic from the scrap heap. 

Thank you all for your support. 

Tom


----------



## Jim Casto Jr (Aug 20, 2002)

Looks like you did an excellent job. Curious... I'd really like to know what the tiller measurement is now that you've done the repair.


----------



## Tdonns (Aug 25, 2016)

Being new to recurves I'm guessing where to measure tiller. 

Tiller measurement from the end tip of the riser flare out is: Upper limb 6 1/8, lower limb 5 7/8. 

The picture at 32" draw with 36#'s is indicative of the same difference between upper and lower limbs. The top of the riser was leveled and the 1x3 is set to level also with the top of the riser. A gap is apparent between the lower limb (R/H) and the board whereas the upper limb is even. Lower limb gap to board is about 1/4 inch.

Question to Jim C. Is this condition unusual or detrimental? I have little knowledge on the basic set up of this bow, or other recurves for that matter. 

T


----------



## Jim Casto Jr (Aug 20, 2002)

If you mean you measured from the fade-out of the riser to the string, you've ended up with a 1/4" positive tiller--perfect. I was afraid the lamination's had slipped and may have weakened your bottom limb. Apparently, that has not happened... at least not enough to make any difference. You just confirmed that you did a great job. Interesting that you had the foresight to build that mini press and clamp it the way you did. I'm very impressed. :^)


----------



## Tdonns (Aug 25, 2016)

Thank you Jim for your compliments. Although new to bowyer work, my background is quite diversified in fixing stuff. I've been into cabinet making, antique furniture repair, aircraft construction, assembly, repair, sheet metal, composite parts fabrication and knowledgable in metals and machining. I'm an A and P retired from aerospace and now do studio - fine, artistic wood turning beginning with green native woods. 

This winter I'd like to fabricate a layed up composite R/D Longbow. Know any sources for patterns and form layout? I'm thinking long, like 70". I've got lots of walnut, cherry and red cedar on hand to color up the riser.  

I appreciate not only your compliments, but more importantly, confirming that the delta tiller measurement between limbs is a good thing!! She shoots exceptionally smooth. Now I've got to work on my part - Form! 

T


----------

