# DIY Ladder steps (Rebar)



## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

Heres My first try at the ladder steps. The rope I am using here is just a piece that I found laying around. Also ignore the welds as this was a hurry up deal this evening.

The Rung meausres 10" across (plenty of room for 2 feet)
I didnt measure any of the angles, just eye balled them. If anyone wants the angles I will measure them. The main part of the step was 1/2" rebar @ 32", the cross piece is 1/2" rebar @ 10". I did weigh it, with out the rope it weighs in at 2.26 lbs with the rope it weighs in at 2.36 lbs.
I would like to get the weight down to around 1 lb. Any idea's on how to do it?


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## NY911 (Dec 12, 2004)

Oh snap! Trying it out on the house column! Don't let your wife see that! LOL


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

NY911 said:


> Oh snap! Trying it out on the house column! Don't let your wife see that! LOL


LOL she took the pictures. i sure wouldnt want the apartment manager to see it though lol.
I cant beleive how well the gripped on the SMOOOOOOTH pole


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## rustydog32 (Nov 9, 2009)

look good but too heavy for where I venture to


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## NY911 (Dec 12, 2004)

oneluckypops said:


> LOL she took the pictures. i sure wouldnt want the apartment manager to see it though lol.
> I cant beleive how well the gripped on the SMOOOOOOTH pole


She's a keeper!


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

rustydog32 said:


> look good but too heavy for where I venture to


Thanks I agree i will leave them all out for the season, Thinking about trying to get 3/8" rebar and remaking them to see what they weigh then. like i said hoping for 1- 1.5 lbs.


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## 1/4ing away (Jan 23, 2006)

Conduit...


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## JezterVA (Jan 26, 2009)

My thought has been just to try to make these with flat plate steel bar, maybe 3/4 inch wide. It should be plenty stout and will lighten the weight that you are at right now by at least half I would guess.

I'm dying to make some of these but am living in an apartment right now and have no tools to cut or bend with.


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

1/4ing away said:


> Conduit...


thanks but I dont have a bender for conduit, and honestly that kind of scares me.


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

JezterVA said:


> My thought has been just to try to make these with flat plate steel bar, maybe 3/4 inch wide. It should be plenty stout and will lighten the weight that you are at right now by at least half I would guess.
> 
> I'm dying to make some of these but am living in an apartment right now and have no tools to cut or bend with.


well You are not to far from me I live in Marshall, but my dad is just east of sedalia, I may be able to help you out there.


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## JezterVA (Jan 26, 2009)

I've also thought about drilling and riveting the connection points and then back covering it with JB weld for reinforcement. Seems like a sound alternative for those without a welder or welding experience.


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## Corn Fed (Apr 14, 2011)

NY911 said:


> Oh snap! Trying it out on the house column! Don't let your wife see that! LOL


lol...i said the same thing. Mine would kill me! Great idea though.


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## 1/4ing away (Jan 23, 2006)

There isn't going to be much else you can bend that would be lighter. Maybe some smaller rebarb like you said. Aluminum would be great but more expensive, you would have to have some argon, and bending those angles would be almost impossible so you would do a lot of cutting. Conduit is actually very strong in a span as short as you are using, but I understand about not wanting to use it. It doesn't weld very nicely.


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

i like them just the way they are - NICE step(s)! Someone else posted the other day about making them from a hang-all bracket from HF, but I like the rebar idea better. I would likely leave them for the season so the weight wouldn't be a big deal.


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## owl (May 28, 2004)

I would strongly suggest that you make sure that the rebar you are using is considered weldable. There should be periodic W's rolled into the rebar itself if it is. Nonweldable rebar can fail abruptly after being subject to welding temperatures.


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## weston2009 (Feb 13, 2009)

#4 rebar is heavy... u could prolly get away with #2 or #3


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## TargetShooter2 (Dec 10, 2010)

2 may bend it's little over a 1/4 .. 
3 is around 3/8


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

I made a set of 10 of them today, this time i used #3 bar 3/8". They weigh 1.24 lbs each now total for 10 of them was just over 12.5 lbs. I think they will work out just fine for being able to have a spare set for packing when I use the saddle, I plan to make several more sets of 10 to leave out during the season for different hang on stands. I was really suprised to see how they all stack togather, they should defintly work good for packing. I will post some pictures of them all stacked up and then on the tree probably Wednsday (suppose to have rain and thunderstorms all day tommorow.


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## TC-CountryBoy (Aug 30, 2004)

Are you using heat to bend the rebar? I bend a lot of cold and hot roll on my bender, but when I tried some rebar, it snapped if I didn't use a larger radius. Just wondering how you are getting such a tight bend?
TC


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

TC-CountryBoy said:


> Are you using heat to bend the rebar? I bend a lot of cold and hot roll on my bender, but when I tried some rebar, it snapped if I didn't use a larger radius. Just wondering how you are getting such a tight bend?
> TC


It sounds like you are using grade 60 rebar, that is the hard stuff, to bend that you have to heat it red hot or it will snap. If you use the Grade 40 rebar you would probably have better luck bending it with out heating it. HOWEVER, I would still reccomend heating it. 
Actually anytime you weld rebar you should preheat it before welding, if you dont the welds can crack. Rebar is not ment to weld for structural or Atleast that is what I have been told. I have made several projects welding it and havent had any problem's yet, but I do preheat before welding and honestly I dont really consider these structural, then tension you put on these steps is not on the welds.

What kind of bender do you have? If you dont mind i would like to see a picture of it, is round rod all that you can bend or can you bend tubing also?


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## 18javelin (Aug 13, 2005)

owl said:


> I would strongly suggest that you make sure that the rebar you are using is considered weldable. There should be periodic W's rolled into the rebar itself if it is. Nonweldable rebar can fail abruptly after being subject to welding temperatures.


Ditto this ^^^^^^^


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## TargetShooter2 (Dec 10, 2010)

there is 2 kinds of rebar . welding and non welding,
the welding rebar has a Large W about every couple of feet throughout the length of the bar


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## 04Z (Jul 16, 2008)

Great idea as long as you are using rebar that is weldable. Is there a reason you are making these instead of just buying some climbing sticks?


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## Rhody Hunter (Jul 14, 2008)

Nice I thought that rebar would work just fine when I posted on the other post that some were having
Trouble welding or didn't Have the means to weld.
Now I'm going to have t.o make some as well . I wil probably just leave mine out there for the season


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

04Z said:


> Great idea as long as you are using rebar that is weldable. Is there a reason you are making these instead of just buying some climbing sticks?


Yea theres about 1,500 reasons lol $$$$$ ($150.00 X 10 stands). I already have a set of muddy climbing sticks, Honestly I dont care for them all that well. 
IMO the recalled sticks were better then the replacments, the stand offs on the old ones had sharper cleats then the new ones which IMO made them lock on to the tree alot better. The new ones are still safe but I dont like how they ran the parts thru a vibrating deburrer i really think that took some holding power out. 

Aside from that the MAIN reason is I have multiple hang on stands, I dont like having to pack the sticks in for every different stand. I can make 10 of these for each stand and cost considerably less then what it would take to put climbing sticks on all the stands.

Also i appreciate everyones concerns about using "weldable rebar". BUt I do preheat before welding and the set up i use is 75/25 argon with .035 wire, I have not had a problem with any of the rebar projects i have made in the past. 

According to my scale that I use for Refrigerant, the muddy sticks weigh 2.86 lbs. muddys have 2 steps, The ladder steps weigh 1.24 lbs each 2.48 lbs for 2 steps, which makes them lighter to pack in then the muddy system. Yes I have to install twice as many units to the tree then the muddy sticks, but with the rope system I am using versus the muddys I can install 2 of these in the same amount of time as I can 1 of the muddy when you figure in tying the safety knot on the muddys. Also these stack up alot smaller for packing (small enough they would fit in my primos fanny pack). I plan to make 10 sets of these for all the lock on stands, and another set that I can pack in for use with my tree saddle.


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## TC-CountryBoy (Aug 30, 2004)

oneluckypops said:


> What kind of bender do you have? If you dont mind i would like to see a picture of it, is round rod all that you can bend or can you bend tubing also?


The bender is just a cheap table mount one from Harbor Freight. It is intended to do just solid stock, but I made a couple larger dies and using a 5" diameter die, I have been able to bend some 3/4 square tubing as well as some round pipe with very little distortion. One of these days if I get access to some large round stock I am going to make a set of deditcated dies groved for square tubing. I caught it on sale and have used it a lot, the only thind I would recommend is replacing the pins for the dies that come with it. I noticed after a while they startd bending, so I got some long 5/8" grade 8 bolts and cut them to length, making new pins. I use it to make J-hooks to hang everything from the rafters, gambrels, wall brackets, shelf supports, wall mounted plant hangers and shepard hooks for the wife.

Here is a link to one like I bought, but mine also has another piece for making sharp bends in flat stock.
http://www.harborfreight.com/bench-top-bar-and-rod-bender-38471.html

Here is the bender mounted on my welding table









Bender with one of my DYI projests









Here is one of my projects showing bent 3/4" square tubing


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

great stuff


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

country boy i like the deer lift, could have used that last night. The bender looks like it bends the 3/4" tubing great, have you tried bending 1" tubing yet? Also what is the max wall thickness the bender will do?


Heres a picture of the steps all stacked togather.


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

they can also be made out of 1/2" square tubing. i made a bender just for making them. i coppied the ones that i bought at kittery trading post in Maine and they were invented by a guy with a prostedic leg so he could get into his stand been using mine for almost 15 years and i love them. a little hint they work the best with hollow braided polyproalene rope


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## TargetShooter2 (Dec 10, 2010)

*area*

Well you live in Marshall !!
and i work in Marshall 
but live north of the river Carroll county 
TS2


oneluckypops said:


> well You are not to far from me I live in Marshall, but my dad is just east of sedalia, I may be able to help you out there.


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

BowBaker1640 said:


> they can also be made out of 1/2" square tubing. i made a bender just for making them. i coppied the ones that i bought at kittery trading post in Maine and they were invented by a guy with a prostedic leg so he could get into his stand been using mine for almost 15 years and i love them. a little hint they work the best with hollow braided polyproalene rope


Any chance of me getting a picture of your bender that you made? I take it you made yours out of 1/2" tubing?
The hollow braided rope is what I have been looking for, but I cant find any of it suited high enough on the working load limit. What size did you use and where did you get it from?


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

if you send me your email i can send you a picture of the one i bought and the ones i made as well as the bender. i would post the pictures myself but i can never get it to work for me. i will also show you the knot if you want


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## rjd (Dec 3, 2005)

Interested on he knots you are using. Can't find any info in that part of the build.
Thannks


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## TC-CountryBoy (Aug 30, 2004)

rjd said:


> Interested on he knots you are using. Can't find any info in that part of the build.
> Thannks


Here is a video of the original Stepp Ladder, it shows really well how to secure the steps to the tree.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kb1pyjAStMk&feature=related


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## tllhunter (Jan 15, 2008)

Does anyone know what kind of safety belt they used and where to get one?


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

i used to use a tree hopper belt. it works the same as a linemans' belt but now i just use the seat of the pants tree harness and use my lanyard with the prusik hitch on it and clip it on the hip rings or loops depending on which one you have


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

those steps also fit very nicely in the back of the harness and you just take them out as you go up the tree. i don't usally use the bag except to store them


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

thye suppier for the rope is Crowe rope in Warren Maine. i still have the manual


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## 1trackmind (Apr 6, 2008)

I would like picture also at 
[email protected]


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

1trackmind said:


> I would like picture also at
> [email protected]


when he sends me the pictures I will upload them to the thread if he would like me to.


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

oneluckypops said:


> when he sends me the pictures I will upload them to the thread if he would like me to.


that will be fine


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## jimbow56 (Feb 24, 2008)

oneluckypops said:


> LOL she took the pictures. i sure wouldnt want the apartment manager to see it though lol.
> I cant beleive how well the gripped on the SMOOOOOOTH pole


Keeping that picture for my prospective renters file 

Sent from my DROID X2


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

there seems to be a lot of interest in the bender i made to make these steps out of square tube. there is a gentleman heree that said he would post the pictures i sent him so everyone can see the bender. i was in the process of rebuilding it a little smaller just for these steps so it's not quite done yet but all it needs is to have holes drilled for the pins that run across it to bend the tube against. now if anyone has a bender like the one pictured in one of the previous posts that will work and it is much quicker asmy bender works on a hand pump hydraulic jack. any other questions feel free to contact me. good luck and hunt safe


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## mnmax (Jan 1, 2004)

where did you did you find the 5 inch die for your bender?


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## TC-CountryBoy (Aug 30, 2004)

mnmax said:


> where did you did you find the 5 inch die for your bender?


I was taking a machining class a few years back, and they just happened to have some large round stock, so I turned it down to 5" and also one 4". It wasn't intended to be used on tubing, but it just so happened that it works most of the time. Sometimes it will try to kink the tube though, just according to the tubing. If I can come across some larger round stock again, I am going to make a couple more groved dies dedicated to bending tubing, as I have access to the lathe at work after hours.


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

i've been doing some thinking about these steps and someone mentioned something about using all the same size material to make these steps. well why not just use 1/2" square tubing for the whole thing? the rung is only 6 1/2" long and it will be plenty strong enough. then you won't have to buy different materials to make them. also so that other people can see the bender i made can one of the guys i sent the pictures to post them please? thank you


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

BowBaker1640 said:


> i've been doing some thinking about these steps and someone mentioned something about using all the same size material to make these steps. well why not just use 1/2" square tubing for the whole thing? the rung is only 6 1/2" long and it will be plenty strong enough. then you won't have to buy different materials to make them. also so that other people can see the bender i made can one of the guys i sent the pictures to post them please? thank you


I will get the pictures posted in a few minutes, just been busy.

I did have a few questions about the pictures you sent me though. What were the materials that you used in making yours? Also what size materials are the originals made from? Could you give me all the dimensions of them


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

Here are the Pictures of BowBaker1640's Bender. I wasnt able to get any of the close ups of the Die to upload.


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

jimbow56 said:


> Keeping that picture for my prospective renters file
> 
> Sent from my DROID X2


lol no worries I dont plan on leaving the midwest anytime soon


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

first offf i'd like to give a little explanation to go with the pictures. in the bottom picture you can see where i have 2 circles drawn those were going to be drilled out and pins run across the bender to bend the tubing against and for the die i just tooka piece 2" outside diameter pipeand cut it in half and welded a hump down the center of the die so that when you go to bend it you cave i the underside of the tube and then i put the sides on the die to supoort the sides of the tubing so that it wouldn't kink. now the steps are made out of 1/2" square tubing which you can buy at home depot and the rungs i used to find 5/16" round bar but the next ones i make i'm going to use the 1/2" square tubing for the rungs and see how that will work. my bender is made out of channel 1/4" plate and 3/4" square tubing. i hope i covered all the questions any one has about this set up but if i didn't feel free to contact me and i'll try to answer any questions you might have. good luck and hunt safe


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

this is the bender i'm going to use to make my steps from now on it's much faster than my bender


TC-CountryBoy said:


> The bender is just a cheap table mount one from Harbor Freight. It is intended to do just solid stock, but I made a couple larger dies and using a 5" diameter die, I have been able to bend some 3/4 square tubing as well as some round pipe with very little distortion. One of these days if I get access to some large round stock I am going to make a set of deditcated dies groved for square tubing. I caught it on sale and have used it a lot, the only thind I would recommend is replacing the pins for the dies that come with it. I noticed after a while they startd bending, so I got some long 5/8" grade 8 bolts and cut them to length, making new pins. I use it to make J-hooks to hang everything from the rafters, gambrels, wall brackets, shelf supports, wall mounted plant hangers and shepard hooks for the wife.
> 
> Here is a link to one like I bought, but mine also has another piece for making sharp bends in flat stock.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/bench-top-bar-and-rod-bender-38471.html
> ...


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## TC-CountryBoy (Aug 30, 2004)

BowBaker, your bottle jack press would still be better at bending larger material. I had thought about buying one from HF for doing larger tubing, but I believe I am going to build a shop press instead, and then make a bending unit similar to the top half of yours to sit on the bed when needed. Here is an interest designed bender I found surfing youtube the other night. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bksBqyfGHM&feature=related


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

but that bender doesn't do tubing. sure you can make the steps out of solid stock but that will add weight


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## StevenT (Dec 9, 2010)

oneluckypops said:


> well You are not to far from me I live in Marshall, but my dad is just east of sedalia, I may be able to help you out there.


Nice to see others from sedalia

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

yea what "click" are you in? Mathews, Hoyt, or PSE?



StevenT said:


> Nice to see others from sedalia
> 
> Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


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## opaplumber123 (Nov 16, 2011)

good job, Thanks for sharing.


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

weston2009 said:


> #4 rebar is heavy... u could prolly get away with #2 or #3





oneluckypops said:


> I made a set of 10 of them today, this time i used #3 bar 3/8". They weigh 1.24 lbs each now total for 10 of them was just over 12.5 lbs. I think they will work out just fine for being able to have a spare set for packing when I use the saddle, I plan to make several more sets of 10 to leave out during the season for different hang on stands. I was really suprised to see how they all stack togather, they should defintly work good for packing. I will post some pictures of them all stacked up and then on the tree probably Wednsday (suppose to have rain and thunderstorms all day tommorow.


just wanted to update this a little bit. I did make a set from #3 bar (3/8") and it is NOT strong enough. When you try to tighten them by rotating them over center the 2 stand offs on the top of the step will bend. I havent had any trouble out of the 1/2" rebar bending yet. But I am also looking at making them out of 1/2" and 3/4" tubing as was suggested earlier. Also contemplating using some 1/2" cold roll rod for those of you that are scared about welding rebar. 

I have been discussing the size of the ladder rungs with bowbaker, it seems as if the original design are roughly 6' rungs, the ones I have made are 10" rungs. I would like to hear everyone elses input about what they think about staying with the 6" verus my 10"?


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

thanks for the update


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## TC-CountryBoy (Aug 30, 2004)

oneluckypops said:


> just wanted to update this a little bit. I did make a set from #3 bar (3/8") and it is NOT strong enough. When you try to tighten them by rotating them over center the 2 stand offs on the top of the step will bend. I havent had any trouble out of the 1/2" rebar bending yet. But I am also looking at making them out of 1/2" and 3/4" tubing as was suggested earlier. Also contemplating using some 1/2" cold roll rod for those of you that are scared about welding rebar.
> 
> I have been discussing the size of the ladder rungs with bowbaker, it seems as if the original design are roughly 6' rungs, the ones I have made are 10" rungs. I would like to hear everyone elses input about what they think about staying with the 6" verus my 10"?



3/8" definitely too light, there is almost a 100% difference in cross section between 3/8 and 1/2". You can tell a big difference when you go to bend the two sizes. You mentioned 1/2" cold roll, you may consider hot roll as well, not much difference from the cold roll, but a little cheaper if you don't mind dealing with the scale if you prep the parts to paint. One nice thing about these steps is that the the cross bar is welded at the bend, and when you bend the hot roll, the scale flakes off in that area leaving a clean surface to weld.


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

TC-CountryBoy said:


> 3/8" definitely too light, there is almost a 100% difference in cross section between 3/8 and 1/2". You can tell a big difference when you go to bend the two sizes. You mentioned 1/2" cold roll, you may consider hot roll as well, not much difference from the cold roll, but a little cheaper if you don't mind dealing with the scale if you prep the parts to paint. One nice thing about these steps is that the the cross bar is welded at the bend, and when you bend the hot roll, the scale flakes off in that area leaving a clean surface to weld.


Availability of hot roll around here is not very easy to obtain. Mill scale wouldnt be an issue for me, I can just throw them in the sand blas cabinet.


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

believe it or not the tubing will be stronger than the solid stock and lighter


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## xjarcher (May 14, 2008)

I am working on a bender design so I can do these. Can I have the length of the rod/tubing prior to bending and the distance between the ends after bending. I'm Dutch and want to have a good plan so I don't waste material figuring it out. Many thanks!


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

the measurement i came up with when i measured from one endover the bend to the other end is 12 1/2"


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## xjarcher (May 14, 2008)

Makes sense, about four inches stand off from the tree and the rest completes the bend.


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## Jean Guy (Nov 17, 2011)

good one man looks good


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## Jubejube99 (Nov 19, 2011)

Could anyone measure the angles and lengths of all pieces? Are the 6 1/2 inch ones identical to the 10 1/2 inch ones for all of the other lengths and angles? I love the idea of these things....


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

the finnished length of the steps are 12 1/2" and the rungs are 6 1/2" across and the center of the bend falls at 5" from the short end. i would have to email you a tracing of the bend for the angle


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## Jubejube99 (Nov 19, 2011)

Thank you for the response. Could you please send it to [email protected]


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## xjarcher (May 14, 2008)

I'd like a copy of the tracing too [email protected] 
Thanks much!


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## MikeD74T (Jun 20, 2010)

JezterVA said:


> I've also thought about drilling and riveting the connection points and then back covering it with JB weld for reinforcement. Seems like a sound alternative for those without a welder or welding experience.


You shouldn't even consider JBWeld for anything involving life support !!!!!!!!!!! :thumbs_do MikeD74T


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## z71backroad (Sep 6, 2010)

Bringing this one back from the dead. Anybody still have the angles? Wanting to try to build a few of these.


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## Ancient Archer (Sep 25, 2008)

oneluckypops said:


> Thanks I agree i will leave them all out for the season, Thinking about trying to get 3/8" rebar and remaking them to see what they weigh then. like i said hoping for 1- 1.5 lbs.


If the 3/8" rebar is of the same material and dimensions, then the weight of the 3/8" rebar would be proportional to the 1/2" rebar, i.e, 75%. So, if the 3/8" rebar step would weight1.695 lb.


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

anyone who might want the info on these steps can pm me and i can email any info needed i've been making my own steps like these for years


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## Bovvhunter (Nov 28, 2007)

BowBaker1640 said:


> those steps also fit very nicely in the back of the harness and you just take them out as you go up the tree. i don't usally use the bag except to store them


Are you referring to your safety harness? Can you post a picture or send it to [email protected] if thats the case so I can see how you carry them while climbing

Thanks
Bovvhunter


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

to any one who has contacted me about info on the steps i haven' t brushed you off i've just been a little busy myself but i will get answering everyone as i can.


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## Lone Bow (Jan 2, 2007)

BowBaker1640 said:


> to any one who has contacted me about info on the steps i haven' t brushed you off i've just been a little busy myself but i will get answering everyone as i can.


*No problem BowBaker :icon_salut:*


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

one thing i would like to make clear is that these ARE NOT MY DESIGN someone else came up with this design and i've just found a way to be able to make the samething myself.


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

would one of the guys i sent pictures of the tree steps i use / make please post the pictures of the so everyone can see the difference between them and the rebar steps? i would but i don't know how to post pictures yet. thank you


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## allensfoto (Nov 19, 2010)

I would like the specs as well.. [email protected]. 
Thanks 
Curtis..


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## Sideways (Feb 13, 2006)

BowBaker1640 said:


> anyone who might want the info on these steps can pm me and i can email any info needed i've been making my own steps like these for years


PM sent


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## Kaos (Jun 28, 2011)

pm sent


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## ShaneC (Oct 21, 2007)

Where can I get the hollow braid rope they use with the Stepp ladder? And anyone know what size rope do they use?


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## crappie josh (Aug 10, 2012)

allensfoto said:


> I would like the specs as well..
> Thanks
> Curtis..


can i get the specs as well please  [email protected]


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## StevenT (Dec 9, 2010)

oneluckypops said:


> yea what "click" are you in? Mathews, Hoyt, or PSE?


Had a bear then bought a pse but no click just love hunting


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

i will get to answering all those i haven't replied to it's just a busy week


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## ShaneC (Oct 21, 2007)

Does anyone know where I can get the hollow braid rope? All I have been able to find is the bright yellow.


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## tim1676 (Nov 13, 2009)

Maybe just post the dimenions/specs for the climbing steps and then anyone who wants them can download them. I am interested in making a set also.

Thanks


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## ilarcher31 (Aug 24, 2010)

Me too! These things look great compared to lugging around a stacked climbing ladder type set.


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

ok to make things easier for everyone i'm going to explain the way i make the ladder stepps that i make which are a direct take-off from the ones i bought. now the only thing is i don' know how to post pictures so if some one that does can contact me i can email them the pictures and the diagrams i have and that person could post them for everyone else to see. Ok here it is. iuse the 1/2" square tubing that you can find @ home depot it has a 1/16" wall thickness and it will bend and not kink (most of the time) and i use my harbor frieght compact bender with the 2" die (that's what i bend around) i also use the 2 1/2" die to drive the tubing around the 2" die when i start my bend i start it 4 1/8" the "long end". that mark will be placed at the edge of the block in the bender then you take the handle of the bender and drive the tubing around the 2"die (you will need 2 of these) then you take and cut the long end at an angle to be able to weld the 2 pieces together to form a "V" and you weld the 2 pieces together @ the "V" i then get some 5/16" round bar and weld in the rung which will go across the "V" then you get some 3/8" hollow braided rope to put around the tree and tie a very clever knot and cam it down to lock it on the tree and there you have it a very clever tree step that is more like climbing a ladder than tree steps. there are videos that can be seen on you tube where the inventor instructs how to use the steps. i think if you search "stepp ladder" you'll find them. now if someone that knows how to post pictures can contact me i can email pictures and diagrams that go with this explanation on how i make these. i forgot to mention that you start with pieces of tubing that are a foot long


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

shane i did find a place to get the rope but it's not easy to find. the place i found is QC supply


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

if you don't want to buy the harbor frieght bender (although it's much quicker to bend the tubing this way) you can make one like the one pictured earlier in this thread. that's what i used to bend the tubing with


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## dbrnmllr (Oct 7, 2010)

Bowbaker, how long are the tube sections cut to before bending (or after bending..... Which ever). Also, how long is the rod cut to?

Thanks in advance.


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## pacnate (Sep 23, 2009)

Is there anything wrong with just making some out of the 1/2" rebar? I don't have a bender but I do have a torch to hear with and a welder. 

If this would be ok...what are the lengths of each segment where the bends are?

Thanks guys. Pics help a lot too.


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

you cut the tubing to 12" to start and the rungs are 6 1/2" long


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

no but they will be heavier and probably have to be larger. you will have to play with it to see how the bends fall depending onn the size you end up with. like i said in a previous post i make mine exactly like the ones i bought so i bend the tubing and go off those measurements


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

if someone that knows how to post pictures can contact me i can email them the pictures and then thy can post them so everyone can see what i'm talking about


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

pacnate said:


> Is there anything wrong with just making some out of the 1/2" rebar? I don't have a bender but I do have a torch to hear with and a welder.
> 
> If this would be ok...what are the lengths of each segment where the bends are?
> 
> Thanks guys. Pics help a lot too.


 you can make a bender very easily. just look at the pictures of the bender i made earlier in the post someone else posted them for others to see. that die is made out of a piece pipe cut in half and sides welded on it with a hump unning down the middle of the die. i made that from pictures of the harbor frieght hydraulic bender but if you watch for the sales or go on ebay a lot of times you can get the compact bender for around $80.00 and trust me after making a buch of steps it will pay for itself. i paid $120.00 for my original dz steps


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

the pictures have been sent to a gentleman who said he would post them for me and i will explain anything that might need to after they are posted


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## dbrnmllr (Oct 7, 2010)

Pictures sent to me by BowBaker.
Pic1







Pic2







Pic3







Pic4







Pic5







Pic6







Pic7







Pic8







Pic9







Pic10


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## dbrnmllr (Oct 7, 2010)

More pics from BowBaker
Pic11







Pic12







Pic13







Pic14








BowBaker will chime in on what each picture is.


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

dbrnmllr said:


> Pictures sent to me by BowBaker.
> Pic1
> View attachment 1467022
> 
> ...


in this group of pictures i show my bender set up along with pictures to show the ones i've made compared to the ones i bought as well as how they attach to the tree


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

dbrnmllr said:


> More pics from BowBaker
> Pic11
> View attachment 1467041
> 
> ...


in this group of pictures i show how i carry them as i install them going up the tree as well as one of mine next to one of the ones i bought


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## dbrnmllr (Oct 7, 2010)

Patterns from BowBaker


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## auburn (Mar 2, 2009)

can someone sell me a step so i can copy it?1/2'' tubing.2- 12'' long and 1-6 1/2'' long.how about the rope type and how long 3/8'' hollow braid.is it the same as ski rope?


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

auburn said:


> can someone sell me a step so i can copy it?1/2'' tubing.2- 12'' long and 1-6 1/2'' long.how about the rope type and how long 3/8'' hollow braid.is it the same as ski rope?


yes it is. i did post a name of a place that carries the rope you need. it's a hollow braid and as far as length goes it all depends on the size of the tree. obviously if you are going to be in a larger diameter tree you will need a longer rope than if you are in a moderate diameter tree


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

auburn said:


> can someone sell me a step so i can copy it?1/2'' tubing.2- 12'' long and 1-6 1/2'' long.how about the rope type and how long 3/8'' hollow braid.is it the same as ski rope?


if you print out the drawings i posted you should be able to go off them along with the pictures. from the bottom of the "V" to the top of the rung is 5 1/4"so if you draw a triangle that is 6 1/2" wide at the base and the two sides meet at 5 1/4" up from the base (to form the top point ) turn it upside down that will give you the inside measurements for the length of each side of the "V" from there it should be easy enough to figure out the angle you need to cut the ends of the tube so they meet


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## auburn (Mar 2, 2009)

thanks bowbaker you've helped out alot and I really do mean it.God bless!


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## bowhuntnsteve (Jul 1, 2006)

Bowbaker, what do you figure average cost is in making 1 of these steps than buying them?


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

not sure but i don't think you can buy them anymore anyway so for me i like the steps so that's why i keep making them for myself


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## bowhuntnsteve (Jul 1, 2006)

What's roughly a step cost in materials that you make then


Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk


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## Rhody Hunter (Jul 14, 2008)

You can still buy them for 7 plus shipping . You just need to e mail Jim stepp and he get back to you very fast with the cost.
I picked up 10 this summer I think the total was 83 dollars . I just figured for me it was easier to just buy than for me to make .
If I had a metal shop it might be different


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

Rhody Hunter said:


> You can still buy them for 7 plus shipping . You just need to e mail Jim stepp and he get back to you very fast with the cost.
> I picked up 10 this summer I think the total was 83 dollars . I just figured for me it was easier to just buy than for me to make .
> If I had a metal shop it might be different


years ago when i spoke to him about buying some more he told me they would be $10. each so you've done well. right now i have enough parts made up so i can do up 17 of them this weekend when i get home from being out of town


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## Dwayne (May 23, 2003)

I don't have a tubing bender so decided to try and make the steps with 1/2 EMT tubing. Below is a photo of two steps I made. The
The first one I made is on the left. I bent the tubing around a pipe and then inserted a short piece for the step itself. I didn't like the
way it turned out so decided to just use a chop saw and cut the left/right pieces and weld them together at an angle. That step is 
on the right. As someone mentioned above welding EMT is kind of a pain but I ground off the galvanized before welding so it wasn't
too bad. They both seen to work well even though I had only small diameter hollow-braid polypropylene rope. I wasn't sure what the
distance should be between two legs on top that lean against the tree so I made them 5 3/8 inches center to center. They weigh
8 ounces each.


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## bowhuntnsteve (Jul 1, 2006)

Dwayne said:


> I don't have a tubing bender so decided to try and make the steps with 1/2 EMT tubing. Below is a photo of two steps I made. The
> The first one I made is on the left. I bent the tubing around a pipe and then inserted a short piece for the step itself. I didn't like the
> way it turned out so decided to just use a chop saw and cut the left/right pieces and weld them together at an angle. That step is
> on the right. As someone mentioned above welding EMT is kind of a pain but I ground off the galvanized before welding so it wasn't
> ...


let us know how they do


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## brassfield48 (Oct 26, 2012)

power pack drill. 3/8 wood drill bit.. number 8 hardness 3/8 by 7" bolts.. dow rod 1/4 inch by 6 " long.. only need one set of bolts if you take them with you when you come down the tree. replace with the dow rods so you can fine the holes in the drak if needed.. muct be the number 8 hardness bolts. ( they will not bend). dave holt who worked for bowhunter mag. showed us this method . make sure you get at least 3 inches of bolt in the tree..it works great.


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## bowhuntnsteve (Jul 1, 2006)

but I would say the purpose of these steps and those of the such are to not damage the tree at all. drilling into it would be no different than putting tree steps in and just pulling them out when you leave.


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## bwhntr7973 (Mar 8, 2011)

tagged


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

for all the folks asking me to make steps for them I wish I could but in this day and age of sue happy lawyers unfortunately I can't for one thing Mr Stepp has a patent on them and I will not violate that. Then there is the issue of liability. I just make them and my stands for myself because i'm not a certified welder but as I stated earlier in the thread if anyone wants to make their own I can certainly help you out with any question you might have


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## thisguy8475 (Sep 28, 2013)

I'm looking into getting some of these steps for myself. I emailed Jim Stepp and he's out of stock, so it's a no go there. I'm very much a DIY type so I might just give it a shot. My thoughts are to use 1/2" 6063-T52 (architectural, not structural, so we'll see how it goes) aluminum square tubing. I think I might get the bend I need if I pack it with sand and I'm careful. Big reason for this is weight savings. The steel stepps are about 10.2lbs per dozen while doing it out of the aluminum is 3.4lbs per dozen. I will post pics and results when I'm done. Thanks for all the info on this Baker.


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

thisguy8475 said:


> I'm looking into getting some of these steps for myself. I emailed Jim Stepp and he's out of stock, so it's a no go there. I'm very much a DIY type so I might just give it a shot. My thoughts are to use 1/2" 6063-T52 (architectural, not structural, so we'll see how it goes) aluminum square tubing. I think I might get the bend I need if I pack it with sand and I'm careful. Big reason for this is weight savings. The steel stepps are about 10.2lbs per dozen while doing it out of the aluminum is 3.4lbs per dozen. I will post pics and results when I'm done. Thanks for all the info on this Baker.


you might have a problem the bend aluminum doesn't usually like to bend. I just use 1/2" square steel tubing from home depot


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## Dittmer8110 (Nov 10, 2014)

This is a great idea! Gonna have to try this.


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## PSE CRAZY (Feb 3, 2008)

tagged


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## Chiro_Archer (Jun 6, 2011)

So glad I found this post again, going to do some math to see what the cost of materials and time would be to make a set vs just buying a new set


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## Foilestraitmeat (Mar 1, 2009)

how stable are these on the tree?


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## Rhody Hunter (Jul 14, 2008)

I have a set that I bought and they are very stable


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## bowhuntnsteve (Jul 1, 2006)

Rhody how much were they for how many steps?


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## Rhody Hunter (Jul 14, 2008)

I bought 10 because I like to get to20' or more. I don't remember exactly might of been 70-80 . Not sure . I wanted to try them at the time and they came recommended so I bought some . At the time he was selling his left over inventory . Would have like to have gotten a caring bag but didn't have any left


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## bowhuntnsteve (Jul 1, 2006)

That's a good deal. The new company has the "left over inventory" they said & are selling 8 steps without a bag for $140! Yea I changed my tune as much as I wanted a few sets.


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## JimInColorado (Aug 12, 2015)

*Original Climbing steps about to go back into production*

Looks like Jim Stepp is working as a consultant for the new production of his Climbing steps.

Lots of chatter about them being manufactured again: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Stepp-Ladder/235107436545038


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## Chiro_Archer (Jun 6, 2011)

Yep, I was sent the same message about the 8 steps for $140 w/out the bag


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## bowhuntnsteve (Jul 1, 2006)

Eh that's what happens when bought out. Prices go up as well and as seen in some companies buy out, quality goes down. But I liked the idea and concept but I'll pass. Yea I was said he was going to be a "consultant" the whole time. Most companies keep the owner on and some for first few then they get dropped. See it in the industry a lot.


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## JimInColorado (Aug 12, 2015)

*Ready to try this great build*

I really like the climbing steps over the Muddy and Lone Wolf climbing sticks.
The climbing steps are easier to build for a DIYer and will also pack easier than climbing sticks.
See second photo in post #100. I assume the "model" is BowBender1640 

So with that said, the OP (oneluckypops) has my vote for a great DIY project.
I will now build a sample set out of Grade 40, "weldable", #4 (1/2") rebar for a "proof of concept".
The steps will be 6 1/2 inches wide as suggested by BowBaker1640.

If it works as I believe it will, then I'm going to build another 10 piece set out of 1/2" square tubing as BowBaker1640 suggested.
Note: See posts #89, #99, and #103.

My research in this Forum (climbing sticks) has me leaning towards using 5/16" Amsteel for the rope.
http://www.samsonrope.com/Pages/Product.aspx?ProductID=872

5/16" Amsteel has an average strength of 13,700 lbs and various suppliers offers it in different colors.
I do NOT want to fall out of a tree, so I lean towards "overbuilt".

Here is a YouTube video demonstrating how to tie a Brummel knot in braided rope for a nice and strong loop.
http://youtu.be/QZM-0HVic0w
Fish the other end (tail) back into itself for a finished look.

Will need about 8' (6' 7" after the Brummel knot) for each step.
Size it for the avg tree diameter in your hunting area.


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## Chiro_Archer (Jun 6, 2011)

Look forward to seeing what you come up with!


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## bowhuntnsteve (Jul 1, 2006)

Great post Jim! What's that grade 40 rebar cost? I'm by no means a welder but my dad is a retired one. So maybe I'll have to give him a project!!


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## JimInColorado (Aug 12, 2015)

bowhuntnsteve said:


> Great post Jim! What's that grade 40 rebar cost?


Home Depot has 3' lengths for less than $3.00 
They sell them for stakes.

*Note:* Construction rebar is made of "crap" material. Welding this stuff is not recommended if your life depends on the welds.
I have welded rebar in the past and I do believe it is Ok in this circumstance, but "beware" of the safety aspect.
Putting the cross piece (step) into the "V" of the bend will give more welding area.
I would also recommend brazing using bronze rod vs Mig welding if using rebar (Chinese mystery metal). :embara:

I will build only three steps for "testing" purposes using rebar, since I have some in my metal pile and it will be quick to do.
Dimensions, stability issues, & design issues will be worked out with the rebar.

My final build will be 1/2" mild steel (1018 cold rolled or A36 hot rolled) square tubing.
Before welding, I will build a Jig to hold everything in alignment so the steps will stack neatly together for packing.
It will be TIG welded with my Miller Dynasty since I have no intentions of having a failed weld ruin my day.

And no, I will not build any for anyone else, since the design has a patent and they will start manufacturing them again.


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## Geeman (Nov 28, 2011)

I just made 4 steps made with weldable 1/2 inch rebar, had to buy $100 minimum order, 10 foot lengths.
I am using polyethelene (not polypropelene) rope.
Will test them out tomorrow to see if my dimensions work out, using the harbor freight bender is by trial and error as printed directions are no good. These will be for actual use, as I intend to use the rebar steps.


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## Ouztse (Jul 28, 2010)

I have been making these SLOWLY over the summer. I will get back to everyone on the dimensions. I didn't like the them being so narrow so mine are little wider. I am using am steel blue rope 1/4" (8500 lb breaking strength). I'll send pics of the rope as well. 

Eric


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## bowhuntnsteve (Jul 1, 2006)

Wider would be my choice as well Eric.


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## Stubbydnutz (Oct 14, 2015)

I'm new to the site bit work in a welding shop and would love to get more details on these... I've got a big family so anything I can save and still have a safe and affective way to get up a tree for the wife and kids would be awesome.


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

To all who are making these tree steps I've been making my own for about the last 15 years ( only because it was so hard to get a hold of Mr Stepp) you'll find that 1/2 square tubing is the stuff to go with. It's very available, very weldable and it doesn't weigh a ton when you have 10 steps in your pack. Also another thing I do is take out the bottom 4 or 5 steps so no one else can get up in my stand. Especially a kid. The last thing any of us need is to have a kid get up in a stand and fall out of it and get hurt or killed


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## bowhuntnsteve (Jul 1, 2006)

The takeover's price seems to have jumped pretty good. Even the old stock without the bag they were selling I thought was high.


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## Ouztse (Jul 28, 2010)

Here are a couple pictures of the ones I have been making. The actual step area is 6-6.5" wide. I just looked at the receipt for the materials. I paid $121 for the steel but that did include some 1.25" steel as well. I made 15 but have enough materials to make 40. I estimate that they run me with rope which is expensive itself (but I was not going to go cheap on the part that holds it in place) about $5-$7 a piece. Maybe more since I added the extra piece of flat stock for extra security.


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## DonsHarley (Sep 10, 2003)

Ouztse said:


> Here are a couple pictures of the ones I have been making. The actual step area is 6-6.5" wide. I just looked at the receipt for the materials. I paid $121 for the steel but that did include some 1.25" steel as well. I made 15 but have enough materials to make 40. I estimate that they run me with rope which is expensive itself (but I was not going to go cheap on the part that holds it in place) about $5-$7 a piece. Maybe more since I added the extra piece of flat stock for extra security.
> View attachment 3081834
> View attachment 3081850


Where did you get your rope and was there a minimum qty?


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## Ouztse (Jul 28, 2010)

Search for AMSTEEL Blue. It is a light weight, UV resistant very strong rope for it's size and easy to splice. I use 1/4" rope. I spliced one end with a "locked Brummel" to create an eye. (Link to video for splice) www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vnc7T6tsE9s .


You can find different colors too. the first batch I ordered was a forest green. I would like to dye the grey to black or something darker. It will work pretty good as is for using on oaks. You can order it by the foot. It is not cheap but neither is my safety!!!

Hope this helps.

Eric


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## broncokid95 (Aug 2, 2015)

nice


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## ouztse1 (Oct 30, 2014)

*specs*

If you still have the data on the stepps I would greatly appreciate the specs


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## johnism (Mar 14, 2015)

nice


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## duncancreek (Aug 9, 2017)

Awesome steps!


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## kyler1945 (Oct 16, 2012)

For guys looking for a good rope to use with these and other steps, Notch Dryad Dynamic Cabling - 3/8" size. I got it on sale for 58 cents a foot. tons of uses, 3000lb plus breaking strength, splices easily. I got it at tree stuff


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## xjarcher (May 14, 2008)

Primal treestands is making and selling these. Don't like the strap at all but that can be removed. Scroll down a bit. They are around $5 each.
https://www.primaltreestands.com/treestand-accessories/


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## Johnpryor (Sep 19, 2017)

Nice


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## odino (Apr 17, 2011)

Thank you all for the idea ... 
Here in Italy Jim's SteppLadders don't even know what they are
and ordering them directly from the site is a suicide, in my opinion, 
between shipping and customs it is cheaper to try to build them yourself. :mmph:

This year, after this ****ing quarantine, I would like to resume
in my hand my trusted compound bow and use it to hunt ...
Saddle hunting of course! :rock:

A friend of mine had built them himself and used them to position his treestand (and subsequently to reach it) ...
then he stopped hunting and sold all his equipment ... :mg:
obviously he also lost the drawings with the measures of the steps ... 

But nothing is lost thanks to *BowBaker1640* I have, I think, almost everything you need to rebuild them. :thumbs_up

Best Regards!

:wave3:


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## kebabu (Aug 25, 2017)

Maybe you can make them out of pipe , and add some spikes were it contacts the tree. That would make them much lighter , and I don't think it will bend in such small diameters. ( I would go with 15x15mmx2mm  or 1.5mm square pipe )


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## odino (Apr 17, 2011)

kebabu said:


> Maybe you can make them out of pipe , and add some spikes were it contacts the tree. That would make them much lighter , and I don't think it will bend in such small diameters. ( I would go with 15x15mmx2mm or 1.5mm square pipe )


Yes! we can use round pipe instead square ones but, for me, is better doing some knurling 
in the part that must be bend... 





so the feet do not slide certainly or in any case less than on smooth surfaces.
Obviously where the rope will have to pass it will have to be protected.

:wave:

PS: From wich city/part of Romania are you typing in?
Soţia mea este din România, Ungheni de la Răuceşti , Târgu Neamţ :wink:


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## kebabu (Aug 25, 2017)

odino said:


> Yes! we can use round pipe instead square ones but, for me, is better doing some knurling
> in the part that must be bend...
> 
> 
> ...


Salut  Din Salaj , oras Jibou.

Yes , round pipe is also good , was thinking that with square you have edges so the rope can bite into it, round pipe or square is lighter than rebar any day of the week


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## Kyhunter1986 (Aug 9, 2020)

Don’t know if I trust thT


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## morenor12 (Jan 8, 2021)

I should have looked at this before I bought my steps.


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