# Hommade Site Light. Help!



## traviscain38 (Dec 6, 2007)

I was wanting to make a site light. I was just wantin to see if you guys could help me with ideas and pics of some of the ones you have made. I have seen some where prople have wired batteries to LED's and things like that and that what I want to do. So if yu can help me out. Thanks Travis.


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## Jellio (Sep 5, 2007)

Let me say sorry for the quality of these pics.....not sure how much this will help you because it really is a one off type deal. I use the Hindsight system so I made a light that will turn on with a switch and shoot an LED light onto the cross hairs to make them glow. I'm going to add another LED to the top of the Hindsight. I simply turn the light on about an hour before sun down keep it on for 30 minutes or so and it will glow and provide great low lighting system...I tested it on a rabbit tonight and it worked great. For my main sight I simply added an LED right where the fiber optics come out of the end of the sight...this may not help you but hopefully it gives you some idea's. Call me nuts but I want to be able to see and shoot clearly right until the last minute of legal shooting time. 

This first pic is in total darkness....you simply line up the cross hairs on the Hindsight and the green dot on your main sight. 










This next one shows with the led on the hindsight



















Here is the light on my main sight I had to get a brass fitting for the sight and small 1/8" copper tube and put a slight bend in it to getting on the sight and then to attach my light...if you want specific instructions I could type something up.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

I built one using a 9v battery. I chose 9v because they are extremely common, easy to find. The little screw top lights always seem to run out of batteries at the most inopportune time and it always seems like the sores are always out of that one battery type that is needed. Another benefit is that they last forever!

I bought all the components at Radio Shack, again easy and available.
1 4v UV LED, get the UV bulb that's what makes the fibers glow!
1 Micro Switch, this was still too big for my tastes but it's the smallest they had.
1 LED holder, they came in packs of 2
1 330 ohm resistor, 9v will blow an LED eventually so this is the correct resistor to match the LED. 
1 plug and wires that fit a 9v battery
1 9v battery 


The wire lead I stole out of an old PC I had. it has a plug on the end that fits right over the LED prongs. You could just as easily solder the wires to the LED. LED's last a long time so no worries about needing to replace them.

I've had the same battery in this light now for over 2 years still going strong. You could also bypass the switch and just plug it into the battery too if you wanted to make it simple. Note in the Pics I have one with a switch cover and one without. I made these battery holders out of aluminum sheeting but to tell you the truth since the batteries last so long it may make more sense just to foam tape it to the bow.


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

I can't believe nobody had any comments on your light. Great job. I am working on making one similar to yours, but going to use a potentiometer.


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## bhuntin (Jun 19, 2009)

Could you post another pic of what you are using to attach the bulb to the sight ring? What kind of mounting bracket is that? And did it come from radio shack also? thanks


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Howdy bhuntin

I drilled a hole in the sight ring. (PVC pipe if you want the truth)
in that hole I mounted the Radio Shack LED holder shown in the picture. The LED leads stick out the top. I then slipped the wired plug I stole out of and old PC motherboard onto the LED leads. This worked OK but what I found was that the bow vibration would cause the plug to work it's way off the LED.


So to resolve that I super glued a couple of pieces of plastic to each side of the plastic plug and then made a z clip from some scrap aluminum I had laying around. This Z clip slides over the 2 pieces of plastic and then the clip is bolted to the sight ring. This held the clip on the LED but I can remove it to service the LED if needed.

I would also add that if you don't want to pierce the sight ring then you can mount the LED anywhere as long as it shines on the fiber it will glow like neon!

Also this new format has much better picture n handling features, click on the photo above and it will enlarge to give you more detail of how it was mounted.


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## noljohn (Feb 27, 2010)

*Site light*

That is a great light and you did fine job putting it all together. Where did put the resister in, any possibility of a wiring diagram.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

*Wire Diagram*

Well I'm hardly an electrical engineer so no poking fun at me. This is how I wired it and best I can figure it's acceptable. It seems to work anyway. :thumbs_up

I'm sure you could move a bunch of things around and it would still work but this seemed to be the logical layout to me.


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## petroleumag07 (Aug 2, 2010)

i have an old cobra sight with a plastic hood. i drilled a 3/8" hole in it. went and bought a truglo led light from academy for $12. the light comes with 2 extra adapters. screwed the light into the hole and then cut off all but 3/16" of one of the extra adapters to make a nut to screw on the inside of the hood.

i'll post pics when i get home.


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## noljohn (Feb 27, 2010)

*wiring diagram*

Thanks BOw bender looks like a new project for me


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## sneakysnake (Feb 17, 2010)

Nice light


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All

Very nice. and may I say a nice DIY entry.

I have built several lights. And for me the batter life was the hang up on most lights I made, using that little button battery. Later I used other type batteries.

I glad U broke the ice with your light design and using a compact 9 volt battery. Which intern makes for a easy mounting.and wiring up.

Again a job well done. 
And I plan on making one. My switch tho, will be at my bow grip.Very simple switch
Which I have made before. Using 2 copper strips sandwiched in Velcro. [Later


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Unk Bond said:


> Hello All
> 
> Very nice. and may I say a nice DIY entry.
> 
> ...



---------------------------

Hello All
Well off to Radio Shack yesterday.

Quote = 1 4v UV LED, get the UV bulb that's what makes the fibers glow!

Well I asked the sales lady ,for this 4v UV LED.
She looked for it. and didn't have it. Then she looked it up on their computer. Wasn't listed. [ Later


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Interesting they had dozens of them at my radio shack... :-(

try this
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3107633


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

b0w_bender said:


> Interesting they had dozens of them at my radio shack... :-(
> 
> try this
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3107633


Hello
Maybe they have them listed as,5mm High-Brightness Ultraviolet LED (2-Pack Will try again. [ Later


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Unk Bond said:


> I plan on making one. My switch tho, will be at my bow grip.Very simple switch
> Which I have made before. Using 2 copper strips sandwiched in Velcro. [Later


Thanks for the shout out UnK. I would be real interested to see the switch if you can post some pictures.
I used to work for an exhibit company and we used to use proximity switches on a lot of the museum projects. I'm wondering if I could get one of these to work?
Also as a public service announcement I have left this thing on over night before and it's still doing strong in the morning. But I think the battery would last a couple of years if I could get a proximity switch hooked to it.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All
Well Radio Shack no. 2 hit the dust .  Will go to a bigger city, and try my luck. :wink:


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

:wink:


Unk Bond said:


> Hello All
> Well Radio Shack no. 2 hit the dust .  Will go to a bigger city, and try my luck. :wink:


=============
Hello All
Drove 90 miles today. To a Radio Shack dealer. I got's it. :thumbs_up :set1_applaud:


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Unk you are one dedicated DIY'er


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

b0w_bender said:


> Unk you are one dedicated DIY'er


------
Hello All
Thanks

Done a lot of sodering in my day. Built gutters and so on. But never sodered a resistor.

Guess you tin them before ataching them. But feel me in on heat., and type of soder. Thanks [ Later


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Ah I have to admit I sort of fumble my way through it. I used one of those wand style soldering irons. I used really thin solder and was pretty light handed with the amounts I used. I recollected I did cut the leads down a bit.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

b0w_bender said:


> Ah I have to admit I sort of fumble my way through it. I used one of those wand style soldering irons. I used really thin solder and was pretty light handed with the amounts I used. I recollected I did cut the leads down a bit.


===============

Hello All
Thanks

Another question . Lets call this, my learning or understanding session. :wink:
? How did U come up with a 330 Resistor for the bulb and 9 volt battery. [ Later


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

using the spec from the LED (FW current: 20mA; FW supply: 3.2 (typical), 3.8V (maximum)) and an Ohm's Law calculator found here http://www.ajdesigner.com/phpohmslaw/ohms_law_resistance_voltage_current.php and using the version to calculate resistance with a known current and voltage (R=I/E) you get 400 ohms as the required resistor. 330 ohm should work, but as stated by the OP the bulb will eventually burn out.

hope I helped more than confuse


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

As I stated in my wire diagram post I'm hardly an electrical engineer. I Google it. I found multiple LED calculators online and the 330 was the one that came up from several different sources. So that's what I went with. Oldschoolcj5 seems to have a better understanding of electrical current then do I so I will defer to him. I will say however that the burning out "eventually" is some what subjective. I've been using this now for over a year and a half. When I turn it on I leave it on for the duration of the shoot and I've left it on overnight several times and I'm still on the original LED. So you can drop in a 400 for longevity but even if I have to replace the bulb every 3 years I think I'm OK with that.

Thanks for the clarification Oldschoolcj5 if I make another one I'll consider the 400


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

I'm not an electrical guru, just remembered enough of a college class to go look it up on the internet :embara: I figure experience is a great teacher and what you have learned from a year of experience is that 330 works!

thanks for sharing and I like your design!


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## isaacdahl (Feb 27, 2010)

b0w_bender said:


> Well I'm hardly an electrical engineer so no poking fun at me. This is how I wired it and best I can figure it's acceptable. It seems to work anyway. :thumbs_up
> 
> I'm sure you could move a bunch of things around and it would still work but this seemed to be the logical layout to me.


Good job on the light. One thing I'd add though is a 1K pot in series with the 330ohm resistor that way you can adjust brightness. The hard part would be getting it in a small package, especially when using a a 9v battery.

Good luck and this is a diy I've always wanted to do, but I never get around to getting parts for anything I wan't to make though, lol.


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## isaacdahl (Feb 27, 2010)

About what resistor to use:

*R=(Vs-Vl)/l*

*Vs*= supply voltage
*Vl*= LED voltage rating
*l*= LED current (20mA=.02A is sufficient) in this case you'll want to know the amps (A) instead of the milliamps (mA). To convert mA to A, divide mA by 1000 (1000 mA in 1 amp).

So if we're using a 9v battery and an LED rated at 5v the formula would look something like this:

*(9v-5v)/.02A= 200ohm* 

Remember, 200ohm is the MINIMUM. Personally, I'd go with something a little higher (like the 330ohm that you guys are using is about perfect) for longevity of the LED.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

I don't know my amp from my hole in my ohm, so once again I'll defer!

Thanks for the info!


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Bump, for the person who was asking for more detail on how I mounted my light and the parts list, wiring diagram...


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## WldlfPopCntrlXp (Oct 13, 2009)

Instead of bracket building, I found the perfect housing for this project. I used the toggle only because they were out of the rheostat. Can be easily attached with Velcro straps


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

yup nice enclosure! I would have used one of those originally but the Radio shack down the street didn't have any so I improvised.


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## WldlfPopCntrlXp (Oct 13, 2009)

They actually have a led setup. It uses 2 AA batteries though. I bought it to tinker with. It's a "red blinking led module", Part number 276-299. Cost about $4.50. Has an on/off switch, fully enclosed case with approximately 8" of lead with a led on the end of it. I took the red led circuit board off and installed a uv led and it worked but was not as bright as the 9v setup. I'm sure if they made a uv led in the correct volt range, this would save a lot of time.


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## deerfrenzy (Dec 9, 2007)

I know its DIY but look up ( cyclops ) they sell the light that has the rehistat on it for $18 ,well the last time i looke them up it was that much they take 3 AAA batteries. Worth the money ...check it out (cyclops)


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## redyak3 (Nov 5, 2011)

Nice thread!!! looks like my next diy project, Thanks all!!!


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## TJK (Dec 2, 2010)

I don't have any pictures but I made one with 2 AAA batteries. It wasn't a UV light as I was just using it for Indoor or 3-D. I believe most standard LED's are 3.0V (or close to it) so it worked perfect with two 1.5V AAA batteries. I just put some heat shrink on the wires and found some rubber hose that fit the LED snug and it happened to be just the right size to "screw in" to the sight housing. 








Here a link to the type of box I bought, may not be the same exact one its been a while. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-New-...657?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a1ee76d19


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## WldlfPopCntrlXp (Oct 13, 2009)

That's what that led kit looked like with the built in on/off switch I was talking about. AA battery setup. Already has the resistor built in. Very small and compact.


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## WldlfPopCntrlXp (Oct 13, 2009)

Now adjustable.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

WldlfPopCntrlXp said:


> Now adjustable.


Very nice!


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## WldlfPopCntrlXp (Oct 13, 2009)

On a side note if using .010 blue fiber, I found that the UV will only light the fiber up about 4-5" max for good brightness. I messed around with different colors and they all work, some better than others. The high intensity white really did an excellent job over all in brightness and length in fiber. This is putting the light on the end of the fiber. Hope this helps. 

Using the led plug mention earlier would make swapping colors a snap using that led housing. 

Thanks again to all who contributed in this process


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## Bhamilton (Feb 11, 2012)

what is the part number for the nob to adjust brightness?


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## Don Schultz (Jul 5, 2002)

You can power most LEDs with a single cell, like an AAA, AA, C, or D. No resistors needed. A single D will run for a very long time. I've literally duct taped a D to my riser and used a pair of 9v batt connectors as a power plug/switch.


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## huntin4hitters (Jan 25, 2008)

tagged


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## GrayTech (Jan 29, 2013)

I would look around for a cheap key ring light about the right size and mod from there. Saw a mini flashlight recently that would be perfect.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello
I took 2 pieces of real thin brass strips. San-wished in Velcro. For a. switch. And mounted to my bow grip. When I drawled back .My sight light would come on. When I let down it would go off.. [ Later


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