# PSE Stalker Setup... Sights, rest, string?



## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Until viper gets here.

If you don't have feathers, shooting off the shelf well is going to be very difficult. I wouldn't even try. You probably want an elevated rest. Bear Weather rest, or flipper rest, or something like that. Or, get feathers. I like feathers off the shelf, but it's not a right or wrong thing, unless you don't have feathers 

You can have a sight if you want one. I tried one for practice, but decided I didn't like it. If you get your eye over the arrow, shooting without a sight gets easier, fine for small game.

Your string's serving is having problems. if there is something on the bow that is rubbing it to wear out, it'll be a problem with any string. If the string is poorly constructed, replacing it will solve that. Don't know if it's compatible with fast flight type strings. 3 rivers has Dacron strings for something like $6.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Blades -

Well here goes...

Barney's covered the major points. The bear Weather or J-2 rest is a standard. The Hoyt Super Rest works well too. Don't know if that bow is cut far enough past center shot for a plunger or NAP Centershot.

If your arrows are coming out visually straight, they are fine for now. When you start tuning, things may change. Not sure if Cabelas sold you the right arrows or not. If you go with aluminum, you're looking at 1816s. 

On a budget, almost any of the inexpensive compound sights will work. Don't worry about the limited vertical travel. You only need a few inches to go from 10 to 40 yds. Don't have a specific recommendation, But STAY AWAY from any of the Cartel sights, they just don't hold up. 

The string on the bow was probably over built (ie too thick). 3Rivers makes a decent string as do a number of others, but find out if your bow can handle Fast flight strings or not. With Dacron you're looking at a 12 strand and with D97, 14. 

I like the Bateman stringer, but they pretty much all do the same thing.

BTW - Tabs will almost always give better arrow flight (release) than gloves, so it ain't the tab causing the poor flight - see note on Cabelas arrows above.

Viper1 out.


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## Blades (Jun 25, 2012)

Thanks for the info guys, ill be doing some shopping here shortly to get what I need. 

As for the arrows, I am shooting the Cabelas carbon hunter 400, 55-70 pounds draw arrows, with 4 inch AAE vanes, and it says 8.4 gpi on the shafts. After looking on eastons site, it looks like I need something in the T4 group for targets, so the model 75 or x7? What is the difference between the 1816 and the 1913? (Easton puts it in 2 groupds, T3 and T4, but they seem very similar) Really not sure what I need though, things get extremely confusing very fast with arrows. What size/weight do i need if I stick with carbon arrows?


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## Blades (Jun 25, 2012)

Also found my problem with the tab. Its too big! When the fingers are curled, the tab goes almost a 1/2 inch past my fingers, and it doesnt allow me to place the string even to my first knuckle, much less past it for a nice deep hold. Thats what I get for buying stuff before I read.... and also buying cheap stuff.


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## Nokhead (Jun 10, 2012)

Just curious as to arrows...why not try some good cedar arrows? I haven't been on this forum long, but there seems to be some reluctance to shoot cedar? (even here in traditional) Just curious. My son bought some carbon arrows a long time ago, and I've tried shooting them from a dozen different bows, from 36# to 80#, and everything in between...nothing I have can make them fly straight. !!!


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## Nokhead (Jun 10, 2012)

Hope I'm not committing any social blunders here bringing up cedar arrows...I can't seem to find any reference or discussions about them...or do the discussions always become arguments as to carbon/aluminum vs. wood? Okay sorry if wood arrows are banned on this forum!!


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Blades -

The 1913s have a static spine of .733" and the 1816s .756", meaning they are just slightly stiffer, and will weight less. So they are close in spine and will come out of the bow faster. The down sides is that they have a thinner wall and "may" not be as durable - again, the difference is slight. The other nice thing about 1816s is that they come in a number of different flavors in several price ranges and colors.

Nok -

Cedar or any wood is fine and certainly has it's fans here, but really isn't best for a new shooter. A bit more upkeep is required and they are not the most durable. If you want decent shaft to shaft spine and weight tolerances, it may cost you more than aluminum or carbon. 

Viper1 out.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Viper1 said:


> If you want decent shaft to shaft spine and weight tolerances, it may cost you more than aluminum or carbon.
> 
> Viper1 out.


I found that out. I love wood arrows on a couple of my bows, and I buy shafts hundreds at a time, when I do. If they are carefully matched for spine and weight, you can get some really good wood arrows. However, even if you know the ideal spine for a given setup (which means you truly know the spine of the arrows you're tuning), good luck getting it. To get good wood arrows, the only method I trust is making them myself, which means grain scale, spine tester, and understanding that you're going to have a lot of extra shafts to trade/sell/give away/save for a different batch/bow.

A Shaft Trading network would be a nice thing


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## Blades (Jun 25, 2012)

thanks for the replies guys. 

I went to a local, specialized archery shop and got some great help. I got a new sting, a NAB flipper rest, and had the brace height adjusted so it would stop hitting me in the wrist. Also ent and bought a new sight and a new glove. 

Put everything together though, and the arrows all hit to the right? cant seem to get it to correct, and even holding left at long distance, the arrows all go right. Not by too much, but no matter what range, they all seem to go right. I would adjsut the sight and try again, but my limbs cracked! I noticed a splinter of wood and paint on the bottom limb sticking out after shooting last night. Called PSE this morning, and they are replacing them, no questions asked. I even got them to switch them out for 35 pound limbs, as I think I was over bowed. 

So with the new 35 pound limbs, I should be able to get my form down perfect, and hopefully really start dialing it in. Will the carbon 400 arrows be too much for a #35 pound setup though?


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Blades -

They will fly, but not well. Forgot your draw length, but id you can handle a 29" arrow thing about 1816s or around a 0.750" - 0.760" spine. If you need a 31" arrow, 1916s. (.400 are basically 2117s - se the difference?)

Viper1 out.


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