# To Grip Tape or not to Grip Tape?



## brett123hall

I just ordered a pcexl and did some research and ordered some Wilson pro over grips. They seem to be pretty nice so far.


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## Dema

allot of guys in the club use colored cloth sports tape the kind you use to tape wrists and ankles up. i just use tennis racquet grip the the poster above me.


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## sublauxation

I bought my Pro Elite with grip tape already on the handle and I'm probably going to take it off. For me the tape seems to make it easier to get to much of my hand on the grip.


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## acesbettor

I like the feel of no tape on my pse but i dropped 2 out of 3 x's in my last 3 arrows recently because my hand started sweating pretty bad in the last end and my hand slid up too far near the shelf. I put it back on and feel i can repeat my hand placement better with it on.


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## Suock

I have never cared for it in my bows. I feel like I can't move my hand where it should be.
My two current target bows I didn't even try it.


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## CarlV

Everyone's different.

I really like it on my Hoyt Pro-Elite.

I don't use it on my Elite Tour.

Easy to try. Hockey stick tape is $1.50 a roll at most sporting goods stores that handle hockey stuff.

Put it on - try it.

Easy to just unpeel if you don't like it.


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## SonnyThomas

Never used the stuff. I just the hand needs to slip where it won't slip any more.


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## HappyHillbilly

I recently got a Mathews Conquest 4 with a bare, integral grip. Though many years ago I played around & tried removing the wooden grip from the bow I had back then, I never really liked the way if felt. My wife shot an old PSE Nova many years ago with the grip removed due to torque issues. She wrapped it in camouflaged moleskin.

My hand is skinny & not much meat within the inside of it (palm area). I just bought a pair of weight-lifting gloves that had the finger tips cut off of 'em and wearing one on my bow-hand was a tremendous improvement that eliminated the torque issues I was having with the bare, integral grip. Besides, even though I live in the south, that bare handle does get pretty dang cold on cold days and a tad sweaty on hot days.


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## mainehunt

I feel that a bare riser gives me a different feel every time I pick it up, cold hands, cold riser, sweaty hands, warm riser, if hands get moist it sticks to the bare riser, no consistency. 

I use tape because FOR ME, it makes it the grip feel the same from one shot to another.

I used the Wilson tape and I didn't care for it. I use the athletic tape That is made by Ace Bandage company. (made in U.S.A.) I buy it from Walmart, they have many different colors available.


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## Cdpkook132

Tape for me. Tennis over grip wrap. Head xtreme soft to be exact


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## pegleg1az

I used grip tape on my target shotguns with a palm swell to get grip, but on my bow I just served in two rows of paracord to get the size I like and still allows for movement to slip into the hand pocket.


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## HappyHillbilly

pegleg1az,
Looks like you did a great job on the paracord wrap. Nice & neat looking, without interfering knots. Good idea & good job!

There are a lot of good suggestions in this thread that I will be considering in the future. Especially if my newly idea of weight-lifting glove doesn't prove effective enough for me. I had also bought some baseball bat grip tape at wallyworld when I got the gloves. I'll have to look more into the various colors of medical - athletic/sport tape and look for the tennis racquet grip tape.

Ya'll have a great day!
HH


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## schmel_me

have always ran hockey tape. Works for me.


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## pegleg1az

I tried the weight lifting gloves (3 different thickness ) did not feel right.. When I was trap shooting we would also use Golf gloves, and or Bicycle wraps.


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## Mestang99

I am currently trying Hockey tape, but I am still thinking a racket tape with some built in padding may be a better option. The Hockey tape does allow you to feel the riser shape, but I think I need it to be a little less tacky, for my liking.


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## ArcherXXX300

Grips were made slick to slide to the same position on a relaxed hand...but even me personally I prefer the feel of Wilson tennis racket grip on my handles. With my shoot through risers and a very relaxed hand in a slick grip it slides way up into my hand and knuckles putting pressure around the sides of the shoot through portion.


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## Jedisrus

ArcherXXX300 said:


> Grips were made slick to slide to the same position on a relaxed hand...but even me personally I prefer the feel of Wilson tennis racket grip on my handles. With my shoot through risers and a very relaxed hand in a slick grip it slides way up into my hand and knuckles putting pressure around the sides of the shoot through portion.


Same here. Went and purchased some Tennis racket tape. Need to put it on my bow now. Anybody care to share their method for actually applying the tape onto the grip?


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## Rick!

Jedisrus said:


> Same here. Went and purchased some Tennis racket tape. Need to put it on my bow now. Anybody care to share their method for actually applying the tape onto the grip?


If u search on "wilson tennis racket tape" there will be a link in the middle of the page to a youtube video on how to install the tape. YMMV


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## Cdpkook132

People don't let it season enough. As soon as you get it installed start working it and getting shots through the bow.


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## aread

The old way to teach beginning archers where to put their hand on the bow was to grease up the grip with a lubricant and have the archer let their hand find the position that works no matter how slippery the grip. This resulted in a bow hand that didn't have to change when the grip got sweaty, wet, hot or cold. 

Use what works for you, but unless there is another reason to use tape, I prefer the bare riser or a metal replacement grip like the Schrewd for my target bows. On my hunting bows, I prefer a wood grip that isn't as cold in the winter. 

Some great shooters use tape, so at least, some archers can make it work. 

Happyhillbilly mentioned the PSE Nova. This was my first compound bow that I bought 15 years ago and also removed the horrible plastic grip. That riser is so rough, that I had to put tape on it. I use the rubbery racket tape on that one. While I seldom shoot this bow any more, the tape has held up for well over a decade.

Allen


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## HappyHillbilly

aread said:


> Happyhillbilly mentioned the PSE Nova. This was my first compound bow that I bought 15 years ago and also removed the horrible plastic grip. That riser is so rough, that I had to put tape on it. I use the rubbery racket tape on that one. While I seldom shoot this bow any more, the tape has held up for well over a decade.
> 
> Allen


Ha! Ha! And it was 16, maybe 17, years ago I bought that Nova for my wife at the Atlanta, GA Bass Pro Shop. And yes, it's hanging on the wall in the basement, with the moleskin still intact. Hasn't been shot in years, though.

Have a great day!
HH


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## Fury90flier

There is no right or wrong, this doesn't work or that does work or this is best in archery...There is only what works for the individual.

Go get a few different types of material that can be used to wrap the grip, try them out-- if they work, great- if not, that's fine too.


One tape to consider is silicon tape...non- adhesive (only sticks to itself) and has a slight cushion effect and is a little slick.
http://www.rescuetape.com/


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## caspian

if you are going to use tape that is slick... why use tape?

I think everyone should use tape, especially people that shoot against me. it's an excellent way of getting a few extra points.


note it will be me with the points.


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## mainehunt

caspian said:


> if you are going to use tape that is slick... why use tape?
> 
> I think everyone should use tape, especially people that shoot against me. it's an excellent way of getting a few extra points.
> 
> 
> note it will be me with the points.


My taped grip has increased my scores, not decreased.


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## Keesey

Do yall use the adhesive backed stuff or no? I went to the store tonight and everything I found was pretty much adhesive backed or it was like a gauze-y type material.... should I have gone with the gauze type?

This will be my first time going with grip tape but I feel like it would give me a little more consistency as far as grip placement goes. If not I can always take it off


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## mainehunt

Keesey said:


> Do yall use the adhesive backed stuff or no? I went to the store tonight and everything I found was pretty much adhesive backed or it was like a gauze-y type material.... should I have gone with the gauze type?
> 
> This will be my first time going with grip tape but I feel like it would give me a little more consistency as far as grip placement goes. If not I can always take it off


I use the athletic tape that they use to wrap ankles and wrists. It has an adhesive back and is manufactured by ACE Bandage company. I get it at Walmart. They have it in many colors.


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## Keesey

I went to Sports Authority tonight and found 2 different tapes I kinda liked (still deciding on color but that's not very important right now), but anyways… does anyone know anything about either of these? Will they leave a residue on my bow if I ever take it off? I just don't want to muck up my riser you know…


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## Cdpkook132

I have never had an over grip do anything to the riser .


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## bowtecha

Cdpkook132 said:


> Tape for me. Tennis over grip wrap. Head xtreme soft to be exact


This is awesome material to use, it's not adhesive so it doesn't leave any residue but it still holds onto the riser just fine..


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## super*

hockey tape is my preferred gripping material


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## Ray knight

I hate tape personally. Mostly because i am a germaphobe. How many used bows i've bought with nasty dirty grip tape i needed to scrape off. It just makes me angry about grip tape. lol. I've tried it though and took it off.


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## Kstigall

I use cloth athletic tape. It tends to give me an overall more consistent feel or grip. In ideal conditions no tape would be best but when it comes to hunting, 3D and less so for indoor spots conditions are frequently not ideal. Cold dry hands on a cold riser may grip the bow differently. Sweaty hands (3D or indoors) may either stick or slip on a bare riser. Thin cloth tape keeps things more consistent for me. Meaning my grip and the way it feels to me is more likely to be the same with cloth tape applied. 

I know Reo uses some kind of tennis racket or bat wrap. I don't like the padded or thicker wraps as it feels like my hand could move or shift. It can be much more "tacky" when damp from sweat than cloth tape. But it *obviously *works great for him!

Cloth tape on the grip makes the grip feel about the same in more variable conditions than a bare grip...............for me. This is definitely something that is unique to each individual archer. It is also something that an archer gets familiar with and generally he will stay with what ever it is they have grown accustomed to using.


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## montigre

I use cloth vet wrap--it's the same material as the cloth athletic tape, but can be purchased much cheaper at feed stores and the like. It comes in a multitude of colors and never leaves a residue on the riser when removed. Like Kent said, it provides a very consistent feel to the grip regardless of the shooting conditions (cold, wet, dry, etc.).


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## Aix

Used the padded racket tape. After a while it will mold to your hand position as long as you are consistent with a proper grip. Noticing the area of the country from most post here, it seems the guys up north lean toward no tape while folks in the south do. Simple observation is with higher humidities and temps in the south you need something to keep the hands from slipping from the sweat. We even sweat indoors with what we call winter!


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## mainehunt

Aix said:


> Used the padded racket tape. After a while it will mold to your hand position as long as you are consistent with a proper grip. Noticing the area of the country from most post here, it seems the guys up north lean toward no tape while folks in the south do. Simple observation is with higher humidities and temps in the south you need something to keep the hands from slipping from the sweat. We even sweat indoors with what we call winter!


I can tell you that here in Maine the humidity is often in the 90% range in summer.


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## Aix

mainehunt said:


> I can tell you that here in Maine the humidity is often in the 90% range in summer.


Disclaimer for coastal regions. Living in higher humidities all my life, if it drops below 50% very long my skin turns into alligator hide and my hands get slick as glass.


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## mainehunt

Aix said:


> Disclaimer for coastal regions. Living in higher humidities all my life, if it drops below 50% very long my skin turns into alligator hide and my hands get slick as glass.


That is exactly what my skin does whenever I visit S/W Texas.


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## IrregularPulse

I need to put vet wrap back on mine. My hand slips to inconsistently on my PSE riser. I don't want anything tacky, but the bare riser is too slippery.


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## sublauxation

As I mentioned earlier when I bought my Pro Elite a couple months ago it had that Wilson tape already on the grip. The previous owner did such a nice job that I decided to leave it on a while. I feel I was having problems getting a consistent grip and was getting frustrated with some left/right issues so last weekend the tape came off. Without the tape my hand slides into one position and stays there. I had to move my sights because the arrows hit about 2" left but my left/right issues are gone. No more grip tape for me!


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## redman

I use vet wrap works great and easy to put on and remove very consistent feel to the grip regardless of the shooting conditions ( hot cold, wet, dry, It comes it all colors


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## subconsciously

I have wrapped my VE+ handle with athletic tape for outdoors and skateboard tape on my release in the past. I might try a strip of skateboard tape on my riser handle. That stuff wont let nothing slide.


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## CHPro

Skateboard tape for me. Thin strip a little narrower than the riser. I scrape the rough surface down a little with something metallic, i.e. back edge of a knife blade, etc., before installing on the riser. The stuff I found leaves no residue on the riser when peeled off either. Gives my hand just enough surface to stay where I put it without feeling too sticky in my hand.

>>---------->


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## teenarcher36

Tape for me!


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## Maine Iceman

For me, a friend of mine turned me on to grip tape just a short while ago. I shoot a PSE Supra and noticed a significant difference. I understand that a person should maintain a particular bow grip all the time, but I live in Maine and there are days where that bow gets so cold so fast, it makes the fingers numb. And for me, I try to avoid gloves because it gives the bow an altogether different feel. But, like I said, That is _For Me._


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## Leon Garfield

I use hockey stick tape on allmy bows, helps give a consistent feel for me in all shooting conditions. Its cheap and easy to change out.......


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## caspian

just as a matter of interest, for those who use tape - 

why do you think it's a good idea to do something that increases the friction between your bow and your bowhand, and also increases the amount of bow in contact with your bowhand, both of which are going to exacerbate the riser torque caused by an incorrect hand position?

I'm honestly baffled why anyone would want to do this. there must be an upside somewhere I am not seeing.


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## WhitBri

Gamma tennis overgrip. They have multiple types with different tackiness and thickness. I'm liking the dri myself. Absorbs sweat and give consistent feel without tack


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## Rick!

caspian said:


> just as a matter of interest, for those who use tape -
> 
> why do you think it's a good idea to do something that increases the friction between your bow and your bowhand, and also increases the amount of bow in contact with your bowhand, both of which are going to exacerbate the riser torque caused by an incorrect hand position?
> 
> I'm honestly baffled why anyone would want to do this. there must be an upside somewhere I am not seeing.


I'm re-evaluating wilson grip tape on my bow. I like the consistent grip texture but do not like the increased sensitivity to induce torque.


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## Carbofastdirect

SonnyThomas said:


> Never used the stuff. I just the hand needs to slip where it won't slip any more.


Im with sonny here, once the hand is where it cant slip further and isnt gripping the bow i dont see a problem with swetty hands


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## hdracer

Hockey tape on my Dominator and Cardiac (with wood inserts removed) but nothing on my Truth 2 as it already has a pretty decent grip. Wish it wasn't so wide, though.

I change out the tape once a year (more if it has been wet a lot or if it gets too soaked with sweat. I don't want it real sticky, just enough texture to keep from my hand from sliding.


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## caspian

that's my point. if your hand is sliding, it obviously wasn't in a neutral position to begin with.


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## hdracer

:up: Ok, how about this? I like the feel of the tape vs the feel of the bare riser. One less thing I need to think about. Is that better?


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## EPLC

Gorilla Tape works great! It doesn't change the grip any, it just provides a less slippery surface. I use it on my Apex 8 and love it. It sticks, it stays and is very durable. Here's a picture.


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## caspian

hdracer said:


> :up: Ok, how about this? I like the feel of the tape vs the feel of the bare riser. One less thing I need to think about. Is that better?


not really, but at least that's a reason.


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## Blue X

Liam Grimwood grip tape is awesome. I think if I were sponsored by somebody who would give it to me, id have it on everything I own. 

Blue X


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## Janss72

i am from IL where the humidity is high here in the summer and when ya bring ya car in from the drive in the winter you can have condensation on the riser, i use tourna over grip, its light blue, thing, and soft, it will not over grip your hand, it allows a little slip but not enough that you lose control


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## SonnyThomas

caspian said:


> if you are going to use tape that is slick... why use tape?
> I think everyone should use tape, especially people that shoot against me. it's an excellent way of getting a few extra points.
> note it will be me with the points.


I am for that. Add all the tape you guys and gals want.

Same for noisy bows. My old Sure Loc Supreme rattles pretty good and this guy on the line commented on it. I said; "If it bothers you and you're in my class I hope it gets louder." 




SonnyThomas said:


> Never used the stuff. I just the hand needs to slip where it won't slip any more.





Carbofastdirect said:


> Im with sonny here, once the hand is where it cant slip further and isnt gripping the bow i dont see a problem with swetty hands


Old time Field shooters from way back use to carry a talcum bag to help keep their hand slick. 2004, I think, I shot with this long time Field shooter and there was this talcum bag hanging on his hip. "Let's my hand go where it should." Both field14 in here and I got trained with using some slick stuff to the let the hand slip to where it didn't slip. This coach put some crème or something on my hand and told me to draw my bow. "Draw it or go some where else." He instructed of how to place my hand. Scared as hell, I drew. My hand slipped up, the riser slipped in the "natural" pocket of my hand and stayed there like it was part of my hand. From then on any bow I picked went where it needed to go. Work at box store or archery shop and you'll draw a bunch of them and there ain't no adding tape to the grip. You'll learn to let that bow go in the hand like it should.

Bet you youngsters never saw bow hands tattooed to ensure you had the correct grip. I got a couple pictures somewhere. Now, this is dedication to shooting....Lord! 

2004, I used a 2004 UltraTec (Flag scheme anodized). Tiniest wood panel grips Hoyt ever put on a bow and you never knew they were there except if you looked. That slippery riser slipped right where it needed to go. My first time ever to shoot Field and my instructor was Don Will. Don and some lady were recognized in Archery magazine in 2004 or 2005 for attending the big outdoor affair out west for 35 years straight. So he and she shot a bit 

Don must have instructed my pretty good as I won the Warm Up (14 Field and 14 Hunter) for the Ill. State Field Championship. This wasn't just my first time shooting Field, but also the first time I ever saw a all black target with a white bull's eye. He instructed damned as the next weekend I took Champion in Senior Adult Free Style. During the two day affair my hand would get to sticking to the anodized riser and the only way I could get my hand to slip was spit in my hand and rub the riser grip.
I can't remember how many Field events I shot, but 6 I think. Only once did I place 2nd and that was in the 2005 or 2006 Illinois State Championship. At this Championship I used my 2000 Hoyt UltraTec. Now, remove the grip panels on this year of Hoyt and you got one ugly riser grip. Yeah, holes through the riser grip and recesses for the grip panels make for ugly and making it uglier was this bow was camo and I had shot it much the camo wore off in places to show the base off white underneath. Ugly as sin, but the riser grip slipped right where it needed to. 

There ought to be a cross reference Key so to zip to another thread... Okay, I shot pretty decent in Field and Outdoor and the only stabilizer I used was a stiff 30" Cartel. I added or removed the end weights to give the "roll" forward I wanted for the bow I used. No back bars, period.s


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## SonnyThomas

Former Great Lakes Councilman Sonny Glisson has been around archery for quite some time. I've lost track of him of late, but he also owned a archery shop around Plainfield, Illinois. He has a lot of storage knowledge. At the this one IAA event we were discussing grip. Okay, it's been a while, but the jest of his information was to "seat" the riser in the hand, to find where the riser grip settles in. The riser grip can not settle in, seat, if there's a hang up, like grip tape. Again, the riser grip "seats" in the natural pocket of the hand. Hard to tell or describe, but hand to the riser grip as per the 45 degree thing, flex wrist up and down, flex wrist side to side. Somewhere within the riser grip slides/finds "home." You'll know it/feel it.


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## BowHuntnKY

I like some ace tape/hockey tape....could careless what other's may or may not think...or whatever. I dont like my hand Slipping and sliding around..

My grip is repeatable and comfortable, as long as the arrow hits where im aiming then ill keep with my ways


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## SonnyThomas

???? Seems people don't understand....The bow slips to where it won't slip, in the "natural pocket" in the hand. Once there it won't go anywhere, not even if you have your hand greased and the riser grip greased. Just a sec, I'll find something....

This is a segment from a article by Randy Ulmer. If you don't know Randy Ulmer give yourself a "F" grade.

"The Cause Of Bow Torque
If the bow tends to turn in your hand when you are drawing it, you have not properly placed your hand into the grip. The act of drawing the bow will create a twisting force in your hand until the string is released. At the release the bow will rotate in the opposite direction. This phenomenon is known as bow torque. Unless you eliminate the problem permanently, you will fight left and right misses your entire archery career.

How To Fix It
To eliminate bow torque, you must place your hand into the grip correctly, and you must do it in exactly the same way every time. Most archery hunters place the bow into their hand too far out toward their fingers, rather than in the cradle of their thumb along the lifeline. Imagine a rod running from the tip of your elbow, parallel to and between the two long bones of the forearm and then out through your palm. The point where it comes out of your palm is the ideal pressure point for your grip. You should apply this small spot to the exact center (side to side) of the back of the grip as you set your hand in place before drawing the bow.
I know what you are thinking, “I can’t control the bow when I hold it like that.” Exactly. You shouldn’t try to control the bow with your hand. You should control the bow with your upper torso, rotating and bending at the waist, not with your bow arm. Do you remember back in high school when you learned about vestigial organs? Well for the purposes of archery, your bow hand and bow arm are vestigial organs, useless implements–merely passive extensions of your body. I like to think of my arm as a post that I have no control over.

The Art Of Passivity
Obviously, for your bow hand to remain passive, you must position it correctly and then never move it, nor apply tension with it, throughout the draw and release. You will probably need to practice this carefully before it starts to feel natural. It is common for archery hunters to adjust their wrist angle or hand position once they start the draw to gain a little advantage on the bow. 

Fight this urge.
In addition, you must keep your bow hand completely relaxed from the time you start drawing until the arrow is in the target. Don’t squeeze the grip, and just as importantly, don’t force the fingers outward.


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## hdracer

Look at Nuts&Bolts post #11...a couple of good pictures of correct bow grip.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1659562


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## PK101

rather than start a new thread i thought i'd tag onto the end of this one, for those that suffer sweaty hands, try using Antihydral Cream, you can get it from http://shop.foosball.com/antihydral.html. 

Don't put the cream in-between your fingers just on your palms and finger pads, works a treat for me.

peter


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## grousegrove

I do not use tape. I like my grip as it came from the factory. It gets slippery if I'm sweating but it doesn't effect my shot. I suppose though tape might be good in some respects. 
In a related vein, I used to put rough skateboard tape on the stock/grip of my pistols to get a better purchase, and it worked pretty well. But I don't modify them anymore, on the theory that now (for example) every Glock is a Glock is a Glock and I can pick em up and shoot them the same. But combat pistols and their purpose are different than target bows, and let's face it target shooters customize everything. So go with what works for you and stick with it. 
--the peanut gallery


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## GWFH

Fury90flier said:


> There is no right or wrong, this doesn't work or that does work or this is best in archery...There is only what works for the individual.
> 
> Go get a few different types of material that can be used to wrap the grip, try them out-- if they work, great- if not, that's fine too.
> 
> 
> One tape to consider is silicon tape...non- adhesive (only sticks to itself) and has a slight cushion effect and is a little slick.
> http://www.rescuetape.com/


Finally......Ive posted this many times and never seem to find anyone else that has tried it.

I think a lot of people would ditch the tennis wrap/hockey tape once they try this.
Its a perfect balance between grip and slip.


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## jobenrader

I use kerlix and it seems to work good. you just have to experiment to get the right feel to help eliminate the possibility of torque issues.


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## ron w

my Supra (bought used) came with some hockey tape on the grip. shot it that way for a while and then took it off, and cleaned the grip. I found that I much prefer no tape. the tape was causing too much inconsistency in my grip, because my hand wouldn't find it's own natural condition and location, no matter how carefully I placed it on the bow.
as said above several times, the main issue is that you have to try different things and find out what works best for you. the biggest problem with that is that usually, people don't give different trials, enough time to actually demonstrate an overall difference.


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## Finq

I use tennis grip, but I wrap it upside down. I don't know the brand, but my tape is very sticky and that's probably great for a tennis racket, but I didn't like that on my bow. 
The reverse side of the tape is almost like fleece where the fuzzyness has been completely worn off. It's not sticky at all.
I leave it on the bow year round, too. In the winter, I don't have direct skin contact with the cold metal riser so I can shoot without a glove (huge plus for me) and during the summer (or indoors), the grip of the bow never gets slick if I get sweaty palms.

Just some food for thought, like others have said, try it out yourself. And also, don't put it on the bow for 50 shots and tear it off, it'll take some time and a couple of scoring rounds for me to find out if whatever I changed had any benefits or not. Some days, you just don't shoot that good, if that's the day you try out something new, you may change it right back again. 
Some things need weeks to get more comfortable with and with so many things you change, it's probably going to go downhill first before it shows improvements. There are very few things I've ever done that had an immediate positive effect.


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## caspian

ron w said:


> I found that I much prefer no tape. the tape was causing too much inconsistency in my grip, because my hand wouldn't find it's own natural condition and location, no matter how carefully I placed it on the bow.


^^ this. leave the tennis racquet tape on the tennis racquet where it's needed.

calling the bit of a bow where you place your hand a "grip" is probably the worst thing it could have been named.


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## ron w

yup, I gotta agree with that, completely. 
as I typed that post, I tried to quickly think of some "other name" for that area of the bow, but figured, If I call it something else, people either wouldn't know what i'm talking about or would argue that the name I used, was wrong. 
and as far as your hand being in a natural condition on the "grip".......that's the whole basis of relaxing your hand to establish bone to bone condition. it allows your hand to comply to what will produce the least influence to the shot. the least influential condition is also the most consistent condition. when your hand can't find this position, it can't consistently put the same influence into the shot time after time.
the whole idea of grip tape on a tennis racket, is exactly opposite of what is mandatory on a bow. the grip tape promotes the traction that delivers influence from gripping the racket to the racket's head attitude during contact, for ball control. a good tennis swing, does not have you gripping the racket with a death grip....rather,.... just enough grip pressure to retain the racket in the chosen head attitude by using the contact traction that the grip tape produces. when done right, with the ball contacting the racket's "sweet spot", you can actually hold the racket with literally just a couple fingers wrapped around the grip and have complete head control.


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## s-curri6

I have very large hands and was having problems with consistent hand position on the riser, as well as my hand sliding up to the shelf both concerns inducing some torque. I installed a 1/8" strip of 3M grip tape down the center of the riser. This has given me a tactile reference for consistent placement of my hand and the grip angle does not cause my hand to slide up under the shelf like it once did. It must be working because my scores have greatly improved. The tape I used is designed for wet environments such as boat decks, it is a medium coarse grit but does not tear up your skin. Your mileage may vary.


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## SonnyThomas

s-curri6 said:


> I have very large hands and was having problems with consistent hand position on the riser, as well as my hand sliding up to the shelf both concerns inducing some torque.


Some pretty impressive shooters have their hand up as far as it will slip or go.
Green bow - Reo W. with green tape.
Red Hoyt shirt - Steve Boylan - Steve note on Facebook he is no longer competing. Steve had surgery on his bow elbow two years and this last year had his bow hand operated on. Steve is the only NFAA Semi Pro Triple Crown Champion I know of, back in 2005, I think.
Black bow/hand - Levi Morgan.
Red bow with the Grrrrr looking guy with glove - Tim Gillingham
Maroon bow - I believe is Jesse Broadwater....


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## Mahly

The lower the wrist position (not placement...meaning low wrist grip vs. high wrist grip) the higher the top of the hand/fingers will be on the bow.
If you have very large hands, you may be limited in how low of a wrist grip you can employ.
I have XXL hands, if I use a low wrist grip, my fingers are in a position much like the pic of Levi...only problem is I was getting my hand dug into by the corner of the riser, and the fletching was hitting my fingers (THAT will wake you up the first time you do it LOL!).
With the higher wrist grip, the top/front of the hand sits lower.
I have had to make a few adjustments to get my grip where it will work best for me...I think I may benefit more than most from a shoot through riser just for the sake of it keeping my fingers away from the arrow, and the riser not having that corner.

Top of grip with "low wrist" (notice corner digging into hand. Thumb is over index finger to keep it away from the fletching)


Low wrist (notice fingers almost as high as the bottom of the arrow)


High wrist (notice clearance to corner of riser and arrow)


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## s-curri6

Mahly- we shoot the same bow and appear to have the same hands. My grip falls in between the high and low you demonstrate in your photos. The big help the tape gave me was positioning the riser on my hands "meat pad", the moxie has a relatively narrow and rounded riser at the grip and the grip tape gives me a better feel of where the riser is contacting my hand for a consistent hold. The side effect was less pressure into the throat with the web of my hand. I hope the way I explained it makes sense-but its working really well for me I'm shooting my best ever scores.


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## Iowa shooter

I like a strip of skateboard grip tape on the back of the handle.


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## Fury90flier

Mahly said:


> The lower the wrist position (not placement...meaning low wrist grip vs. high wrist grip) the higher the top of the hand/fingers will be on the bow.
> If you have very large hands, you may be limited in how low of a wrist grip you can employ.
> I have XXL hands, if I use a low wrist grip, my fingers are in a position much like the pic of Levi...only problem is I was getting my hand dug into by the corner of the riser, and the fletching was hitting my fingers (THAT will wake you up the first time you do it LOL!).
> With the higher wrist grip, the top/front of the hand sits lower.
> I have had to make a few adjustments to get my grip where it will work best for me...I think I may benefit more than most from a shoot through riser just for the sake of it keeping my fingers away from the arrow, and the riser not having that corner.
> 
> Top of grip with "low wrist" (notice corner digging into hand. Thumb is over index finger to keep it away from the fletching)
> 
> 
> Low wrist (notice fingers almost as high as the bottom of the arrow)
> 
> 
> High wrist (notice clearance to corner of riser and arrow)


How you describe the high/low grip is spot on.

I tend top have a low grip and have that index finger high issue shown in your pics. And, you're absolutely right with the fletching contact waking you up. If I think about my grip, it's not an issue but if I let the bow settle into my hand, the bow sits very low and I get that finger coming up---too much training with pistols I guess-lol (sitting low is a good thing there).

for me it doesn't matter if there is tape there or not...finger will ride up if I don't think about how my fingers drape across the back of the riser.


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## SonnyThomas

Mahly, it's all that green messing ya up 

Note; For not being made any longer those Copper John sight frames are still being used. I have two and don't use them. No longer made, but Copper Johns will overhaul them yet today. I think $80.00 when I spoke with them last December... The scope housings are still made.


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## Mahly

Fury90flier said:


> How you describe the high/low grip is spot on.
> 
> I tend top have a low grip and have that index finger high issue shown in your pics. And, you're absolutely right with the fletching contact waking you up. If I think about my grip, it's not an issue but if I let the bow settle into my hand, the bow sits very low and I get that finger coming up---too much training with pistols I guess-lol (sitting low is a good thing there).
> 
> for me it doesn't matter if there is tape there or not...finger will ride up if I don't think about how my fingers drape across the back of the riser.


I should have taken a pic of what it looks like with the low grip if I didn't have my thumb touching the index finger LOL!:mg:


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## grantmac

SonnyThomas said:


> Note; For not being made any longer those Copper John sight frames are still being used. I have two and don't use them. No longer made, but Copper Johns will overhaul them yet today. I think $80.00 when I spoke with them last December... The scope housings are still made.


I've heard it said by one top-level international Olympic coach that they were the best sight ever made. I've had a few and would happen to agree. The Maxxis housing is also excellent but unfortunately I think they have stopped production on that as well.
I regularly hunt the classifieds for them.

-Grant


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## SonnyThomas

grantmac said:


> I've heard it said by one top-level international Olympic coach that they were the best sight ever made. I've had a few and would happen to agree. The Maxxis housing is also excellent but unfortunately I think they have stopped production on that as well.
> I regularly hunt the classifieds for them.
> 
> -Grant


Called them. Yes, the scope housings for the sight frame are no longer made, but the lenses, Bezels and up pins are still made for their present 1.625" scope housings.
I have the .010, 019 and .029" up pins for both the 1.375 and 1.625 housings. Not all is in Lancaster's catalog. ??? Wasn't too long ago I got a email sales thing with the 1.375" lenses and Bezels. I've got 7 for the 1.375 housing. None for the 1.625".


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