# Paper Tuning Help - Low/Left Tear



## tmorelli (Jul 31, 2005)

First thing I would check is the timing. If it's off, correct it and start over.

Then assuming it's on and you are moving forward, raise the nock point until your tear is straight left.

Now move your rest in towards the riser OR... assuming you are already on centershot and you want it tuned on centershot you could double check spine by lowering the draw weight or trying a lighter point. The "left" generally indicates a weak spine.

As always, be mindful of how you are gripping the bow.


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## Chargett (May 1, 2010)

tmorelli said:


> First thing I would check is the timing. If it's off, correct it and start over.
> 
> Then assuming it's on and you are moving forward, raise the nock point until your tear is straight left.
> 
> ...


Timing is dead on, gonna raise the nock point and go from there.

Thanks a lot.


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## tmorelli (Jul 31, 2005)

My gut tells me that the 350 spine is a little weak for your setup. With your draw length and draw weight, a 300 spine would be a more common solution but that don't give up off my gut alone. I don't really know how aggressive/hard the hoyt cams are and that would really be the deciding factor.

Also, double check that the rest doesn't need to be lowered (instead of raising your nock) or maybe a combo of both.


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## Chargett (May 1, 2010)

I'll let you know what happens. More than likely, I'm going to do this tonight. Again, I appreciate the feedback/info. I've been wondering about that spine. CX's arrow selection chart says this arrow will work for me, but we'll see. It's only 9.8gpi. I may have to go with some FMJs or A/C/Cs.

Thanks

Chris


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## rossing6 (Jun 7, 2008)

First thing, you haven't given nearly enough information for anyone to help you...if your bow is timed, assuming it is, then the first thing you have to do is get your DL correct, then for setting centershot, you have to shoot a bareshaft preferably at point blank through paper to set the rest left right up and down to get the best hole which for your form and how your lineup, release hand torque, bow torque etc all figures in to your shot...so set the centershot with the arrow roughly going through the berger button hole for height, adjusting the nock up or down...then later you can fine tune the nock point for best hold, and then readjust your rest...but you have to start with centershot and the bulk of what follows is getting back to 5-10 yards and fine tuning the rest a bit, then adjust the arrow spine for making the tear get better....the spine is what is wrong at that point....You can usually turn up the bow to make the spine weaker or turn it down for a quick check on which way you need to go, then if too weak you can cut the arrows shorter by 1/8 or so until you get it closer...note you can't shoot fletched here or it corrects right out of the bow...anyway the idea is to tune for the best absolute flight out of the bow through paper, and move back to 10 yds, I go 20 for a super tune, but your form has to be very very good for that...anyway, 10 yds is enough....once shooting bullet holes at point blank and 10 yds, you should be able to shoot a fletched arrow at the two same distances and get the perfect tip through nock tear....this is how you tune for broadheads as well....if the shaft is too stiff it kicks out, too weak it over flexes and moves around on the rest and cycles too much...anyway pm me if you need help, but we'll need to have your bow info, poundage, arrow weight, length and such so I can tell you where you should be with the spine and such...Cheers, Ryan


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## mike 66 (Jan 21, 2010)

good advice, rossing 6


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