# How do you lower point on distance for Barebow?



## Mercail (Sep 20, 2016)

Greetings all,

I'm currently shooting 44lbs otf with a 30.5" draw, nock point roughly 1/4" above neutral and 318gn VAP arrows 31 7/8" nock groove to end of point with a high anchor (index finger to mouth, webbing between thumb and index finger forming a "C" around my jaw). My point on with this setup is exactly 77 yards, which I like for 720 rounds and the NFAA field round 80yd shot. I'm interested in lowering my point on to about 50/60yd and all other crawl distances so I'm not going 2" down the string for 20yd shots. I know that I can increase arrow weight to lower point on for longer distances, but that doesn't seem to do anything for my 20 or even 30yd crawl and I'm not a huge fan in the arcing trajectory and loss of speed. I've played around with 400gn arrows and didn't like the results.

Does anyone know of any tricks to reducing crawl distances I'm unaware of? Any help is appreciated, I don't have any other barebow shooters out here in Florida to bounce ideas off of.


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## granite14 (Nov 10, 2014)

High anchor for me is middle finger on my upper canine tooth. Gives P.O. at 45 with a normal nock height. Go with a higher nock point too. Experiment with those 2 variables.

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## Demmer3 (Apr 23, 2017)

If you went somewhere around the vicinity of the pointer finger on your canine that would get you probably around 60 yards maybe 55. Also if you run the top of your index finger underneath your cheekbone that probably can get you about 60-65 yards

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## Mercail (Sep 20, 2016)

I'll play around with face crawling some more added in with nock height adjustments. Is there a max amount you guys would recommend raising nock height or is it more of a thing you keep adjusting till tune and noise become a problem? I'm assuming more than 1/2" is probably overkill.

Thanks for the feedback!

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## Rael84 (Feb 22, 2016)

The rest you are using can affect your crawls, if it is too stiff the arrow can bounce which will increase your crawl.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

Biggest is anchor height. Then arrow length.
You can find a rest which has more vertical compliance which may reduce POD and crawl length.


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## liquidator4711 (Aug 4, 2016)

And to be a bit concrete, one such rest could be https://www.gabriel-bogensport.de/Klappauflage-GUX-BiDrop_1, but +1 on anchor as a top item. 

Personally I would not use a ‘high’ nock point, but rather tune it for correct arrow flight with bareshafts at the competition distance (if target) or average shooting distance for field/3D.


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## SBills (Jan 14, 2004)

Echo the comments for anchor and arrow length. Also perhaps fletching. A slightly larger or more helical fletching can impact the point on at the long distances. You don’t want a parachute effect but a bit longer or more offset might help.


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## lksseven (Mar 21, 2010)

Adjusting tiller to be negative an inch or more will noticeably change the string angle to the riser, resulting in a slightly more downward thrust


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## 2413gary (Apr 10, 2008)

one thing almost never talked about when trying to reduce or gain point on distance is head position. tilt it forward and lose yardage tilt it back and gain yardage.
food for thought

Gary


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## Eriks (Nov 8, 2011)

2413gary said:


> one thing almost never talked about when trying to reduce or gain point on distance is head position. tilt it forward and lose yardage tilt it back and gain yardage.
> food for thought
> 
> Gary


Yup.

But playing with your head position can be a slippery slope to start down.


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## Mr. Roboto (Jul 13, 2012)

increase your nock point position. Shoot longer arrows. shoot heavier arrows, and lighter limbs.

I am cheap, I shoot the same arrows and limbs and do what I can with nock point, and whether I anchor with the middle finger to the lip, or the forefinger to the lip. When I gap shoot, I use the middlefinger. When I string walk I use the forefinger. I personally like a 45 yard point with the middle finger on for NFAA field because that gives me a good balance of gaps between 10 and 65 yards. For WA Field when I string walk, I like the forefinger because that gets me point on at 53 yards. I am on paper for all distances.


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## Stephen Morley (Aug 11, 2016)

You could drop poundage, not many Stingwalkers shoot that poundage, not saying you cannot handle 44# but 40# is a LOT easier and controllable and it should drop your point on as well.


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## toj (Aug 22, 2012)

I'd start with the nocking point, most of the stringwalkers I shoot with are nearer 1/2 to 5/8 inch above level.


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## Stephen Morley (Aug 11, 2016)

toj said:


> I'd start with the nocking point, most of the stringwalkers I shoot with are nearer 1/2 to 5/8 inch above level.


 I would never sacrifice tune to reduce point on, mine is 1/4" pretty much same as when I shot normal 3 under hold. You can get away with it for a single distance like indoors but for Field and 3D you will lose points on some distances. Go for other options first and nock point as last resort.


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## 2413gary (Apr 10, 2008)

Pick one and stick with it


Eriks said:


> Yup.
> 
> But playing with your head position can be a slippery slope to start down.


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## toj (Aug 22, 2012)

As far as tuning and string walking goes i'm happy if all my groups are central at each crawl and there's no clearance issues.
After that i'm done.

I noticed no difference in group size or position (left and right) moving from 3mm above central to 14mm which gives me point on at 50m.
It also made my 5m crawls much quieter and more predictable.


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## Stephen Morley (Aug 11, 2016)

toj said:


> As far as tuning and string walking goes i'm happy if all my groups are central at each crawl and there's no clearance issues.
> After that i'm done.
> 
> I noticed no difference in group size or position (left and right) moving from 3mm above central to 14mm which gives me point on at 50m.
> It also made my 5m crawls much quieter and more predictable.


 Which is great as long as you're happy and tune wasn't compromised and why I posted it as cautionary note. Did you bareshaft, if you did at what distances?


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## toj (Aug 22, 2012)

Brief bareshaft at each crawl when i refletched, furthest at 50m about 2" low and slightly left.

I dont make a habbit of bare shafting or playing around to achieve a "tune" as such.
I know the arrows shot properly go where i point them so any strays are down to me.

There are far bigger points gains to be had else where.


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