# Recurve Questions



## Sighting In (Feb 5, 2009)

I have been thinking more about Olympic style recurves lately (sorry Kegan). As such, I have a few questions to ask:

On a compound, you have a peep sight that you line up with the scope. Peeps are not allowed on recurves, so what do you line up? I imagine you use the string itself. Do you center the string around the aperture? 

Also, just for a future note, what is a good starting recurve? I would want something fairly cheap. I'm not looking for a $900 riser here, more like maybe a $500 riser and limbs. I also want something quality, though. Something that will do well for me until I decide that I want to stick with it and get a real competition bow. 

Thanks, all, and good shooting!


----------



## BIGBC (Jan 29, 2007)

On an olympic recurve most line the string up with the center of their chins and nose, the string just kinda settles really, you get used to where it is and then will notice when its amiss.

The Hoyt Eclipse http://www.quicksarchery.co.uk/superbasket/product.php?product=1496 and KAP Winstar II http://www.bowsports.com/acatalog/KAP_-_Winstar_II_Handle_-_25_.html are very good beginner risers.
Then get the best limbs you can afford with them =]


----------



## Sighting In (Feb 5, 2009)

BIGBC said:


> On an olympic recurve most line the string up with the center of their chins and nose, the string just kinda settles really, you get used to where it is and then will notice when its amiss.
> 
> The Hoyt Eclipse http://www.quicksarchery.co.uk/superbasket/product.php?product=1496 and KAP Winstar II http://www.bowsports.com/acatalog/KAP_-_Winstar_II_Handle_-_25_.html are very good beginner risers.
> Then get the best limbs you can afford with them =]


I understand the anchoring (theoretically, at least) but as far as you sight picture, what do you see to be consistent? 

Thanks for the bow suggestions, as well.


----------



## XCalibre (Aug 31, 2006)

Sighting In said:


> I understand the anchoring (theoretically, at least) but as far as you sight picture, what do you see to be consistent?
> 
> Thanks for the bow suggestions, as well.


for the sight picture, there are a few different variations, which are somewhat dictated by your facial structure; i myself have my sight picture as such that i'm lining up the left edge of the string on the right edge of the aperture (RH). another shooter at my club has his string lined up down the center of the riser. i personally don't recommend trying to look through the string. though you might have something like a "fuzzy" or blurred string that you can actually kinda see though indoors (depending on the lighting that you have), the string _will_ become solid once you go outside and have to deal with glare from the sun and you won't be able to look through it anymore. 

and also, i was going to suggest the exact same risers as BIGBC did :wink:


----------



## Sighting In (Feb 5, 2009)

XCalibre said:


> for the sight picture, there are a few different variations, which are somewhat dictated by your facial structure; i myself have my sight picture as such that i'm lining up the left edge of the string on the right edge of the aperture (RH). another shooter at my club has his string lined up down the center of the riser. i personally don't recommend trying to look through the string. though you might have something like a "fuzzy" or blurred string that you can actually kinda see though indoors (depending on the lighting that you have), the string _will_ become solid once you go outside and have to deal with glare from the sun and you won't be able to look through it anymore.
> 
> and also, i was going to suggest the exact same risers as BIGBC did :wink:


Thank you. That totally answered my question. 

I am still not sure that I want to make the switch. But, if I do I was thinking the Hoyt Eclipse with the Stratix limbs. Does this sound like a good combination? I am new as far as recurve goes, but I am not a newbie as far as shooting goes, so this sounds okay to me.

I was planning on using my Supreme sight and getting an attachment for it to use on the recurve. What else would I need? I think that I need finger tabs, an aperture, a clicker, and a stringer. Would I need a new rest, or does it come with one, and is that any good? Would I need a plunger right away? Does the string come with the riser/limbs, or would that be separate? Who makes good ones? 

Thanks again, all!


----------



## rgauvin (Feb 20, 2007)

BIGBC said:


> Then get the best limbs you can afford with them =]


I disagree with this 100%. Your first limbs should be cheap. The cheapest you can find and they should be light. Guys who pull 60 pound compounds can struggle with 30 LB recurve limbs. For this reason you wanna start with light, cheap limbs and stick with cheap limbs as you work your way up in poundage. Once you've made it to your final weight, THEN you buy better limbs.

as for lining up the string, BigBC is bang on. you have the string touch your face int he same place (typically the chin and nose). you can also line the string up somewhere in your sight picture, for example, you can always line it up on the right or left hand edge of the aperture.

BTW, the FITA forum here has alot of good information for people looking to take the plunge and try recurves.


----------



## XCalibre (Aug 31, 2006)

Sighting In said:


> Thank you. That totally answered my question.
> 
> I am still not sure that I want to make the switch. But, if I do I was thinking the Hoyt Eclipse with the Stratix limbs. Does this sound like a good combination? I am new as far as recurve goes, but I am not a newbie as far as shooting goes, so this sounds okay to me.
> 
> ...


the Stratix limbs would be just fine to start with. i agree with what rgauvin said. start low, maybe 24 or 26 lbs. as for the rest of the equipment: NO CLICKER! if you're just starting off, a clicker will do more harm than good. finger tab, armguard, finger or wrist sling, a simple stick on rest (Hoyt Super rests are like $2, and they work), and a cheap plunger (Shibuya DXs are pretty popular, they run for about $25 i think) you should get with the bow when you order it. a string will be separate, try and find a string maker in your area to whip you up one. you could use your Supreme, bit it could be heavy. i'd also recommend a round aperture with no dot or pin. 

also, regarding the limbs, they come in three different sizes. based on your signature, i'd say that medium length limbs would work with those two risers, giving you a 68" bow.


----------



## BIGBC (Jan 29, 2007)

rgauvin said:


> I disagree with this 100%. Your first limbs should be cheap. The cheapest you can find and they should be light. Guys who pull 60 pound compounds can struggle with 30 LB recurve limbs. For this reason you wanna start with light, cheap limbs and stick with cheap limbs as you work your way up in poundage. Once you've made it to your final weight, THEN you buy better limbs.


You disagree beacuase you misunderstand.
The price of limbs does not dictate the poundage of the limbs - its the quality and the manufacturing process used.
They shouldnt be cheap, they should be the best you can afford as this will help you to shoot the best you can.

eg - 
Hoyt Carbon Foam 990TX Competition Limbs £488.00
Hoyt Carbon Foam 900CX £445.00
Hoyt G3 Limbs £339.00
Hoyt Carbon 300 Limbs £259.00
Hoyt Stratix Limbs £195.00
Hoyt Excel International Fitting Limbs £145.00

They are all made by Hoyt, they are all available in the same poundage ranges and at the same sizes, so why is there a £343 difference between the top and the bottom ?
Because the bottom ones are cheap beginners limbs - they will work.
The top ones are high quality international tournament winning limbs - they are more efficient, smoother and will work the same everytime.

Dont skimp out on the limbs, they are important :darkbeer:

Also - XCalibre knows what hes talking about, follow his advice.


----------



## Sighting In (Feb 5, 2009)

I have been thinking about it a bit lately, and I don't think that I'm going to make the switch right now. But, I might in the future, so this is still a good conversation. 

I see both sides of the argument. But, if I will be moving up in the lbs, that means that I need different limbs each time, and that costs money. So, I think XCalibre is right. When I do I will get cheapish limbs that work until I am at a more permanent poundage.

Thanks guys. Keep talking, though. I love to learn about new things, especially about archery! :darkbeer:


----------



## BIGBC (Jan 29, 2007)

Sighting In said:


> I have been thinking about it a bit lately, and I don't think that I'm going to make the switch right now. But, I might in the future, so this is still a good conversation.
> 
> I see both sides of the argument. But, if I will be moving up in the lbs, that means that I need different limbs each time, and that costs money. So, I think XCalibre is right. When I do I will get cheapish limbs that work until I am at a more permanent poundage.
> 
> Thanks guys. Keep talking, though. I love to learn about new things, especially about archery! :darkbeer:


You can still tweak the poundage with tiller + string length, im not sure quite how much you can get out of them, guess it would depend on the limbs and the range of movement you can get from the riser.

Are there any trade up programs in shops near you ? They pretty much just let you swap out your limbs for others - changing poundage up, if the new limbs are worth more then you just pay the difference. Helps beginners settle in =]

I wouldnt have thought someone experienced with compounds would have issues settling in on a compound - i did learn on a 50lb recurve tho so I guess I shouldnt have many issues lol.


----------



## SandSquid (Sep 2, 2008)

rgauvin said:


> I disagree with this 100%. Your first limbs should be cheap. The cheapest you can find and they should be light. Guys who pull 60 pound compounds can struggle with 30 LB recurve limbs. For this reason you wanna start with light, cheap limbs and stick with cheap limbs as you work your way up in poundage. Once you've made it to your final weight, THEN you buy better limbs.


Or a intermediate set of used limbs... about 25 to 30# would be good.

One of my Students, and current State Champion Freestyle(compound) easily pulls 40# on her compound bow, but is only comfortable w/ 28# on her recurve. 
But she is no weakling by any stretch.

She's got it in her head to make a run for State Champion in Traditional this year, since compound offers no "challenge" for her anymore.


----------



## camofreak (Jun 18, 2009)

Line the string up with the arrow and put the point of the arrow were you think it should, and find out were your arrow shoots.


----------



## Sighting In (Feb 5, 2009)

SandSquid said:


> Or a intermediate set of used limbs... about 25 to 30# would be good.
> 
> *One of my Students, and current State Champion Freestyle(compound) easily pulls 40# on her compound bow, but is only comfortable w/ 28# on her recurve. *
> But she is no weakling by any stretch.
> ...


Well, yah! I shoot 54 lbs on my compound, but there is NO way that I can hold that on a recurve! I think that I would start off on something like 25 or so.


----------



## RedRokker (Feb 7, 2009)

October Mountain just put out a new line of Olympic Style recurves (Olympian Take Down) that closely mimic the old Hoyt. It's inexpensive but by no means is it "cheap". GREAT for the young or beginner shooter that will most likely go up in Draw Weight. No problem shooting this bow for a long time (I'm expecting it to last till my 12 year old gets out of high school or longer if she chooses to shoot that long).

And all indications are that the limbs will be available for a LONG time to come. MANY of the kids at our JOAD group shoot this bow. SOme shoot the Hoyt, but the October Mountain is seemingly just as good for less money.

Aluminum/magnesium riser with laminated limbs, so it's light weight and strong.

http://www.octobermountainproducts.com/


----------



## bigredtn (May 28, 2009)

it sets its self up really, all you have to do is run your eye down the arrow and aim at the target and have an area set on the target for certain yardages. ex. I shoot the bottom of the red on morell target for 20 yards. just make sure you are consistent on your technique.


----------



## XCalibre (Aug 31, 2006)

fordkid16 said:


> it sets its self up really, all you have to do is run your eye down the arrow and aim at the target and have an area set on the target for certain yardages. ex. I shoot the bottom of the red on morell target for 20 yards. just make sure you are consistent on your technique.


that's for trad and barebow. Sighting In was considering olympic style with a sight.


----------



## Sighting In (Feb 5, 2009)

XCalibre said:


> that's for trad and barebow. Sighting In was considering olympic style with a sight.


That is correct. Right now I am still sticking with compound, but even if I shoot a recurve I will be using a sight. I know it's cheating, but I like it that way. :shade:




RedRokker said:


> October Mountain just put out a new line of Olympic Style recurves (Olympian Take Down) that closely mimic the old Hoyt. It's inexpensive but by no means is it "cheap". GREAT for the young or beginner shooter that will most likely go up in Draw Weight. No problem shooting this bow for a long time (I'm expecting it to last till my 12 year old gets out of high school or longer if she chooses to shoot that long).
> 
> And all indications are that the limbs will be available for a LONG time to come. MANY of the kids at our JOAD group shoot this bow. SOme shoot the Hoyt, but the October Mountain is seemingly just as good for less money.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the suggestion, but I think that if I get a recurve it will be a Hoyt. It's a good, trusted name, they are very high quality, and are tougher then a tank. I'm not saying that that other bow is not good, but I think I would stick with the known names for now. 

As far a light weight, I like having a heavy bow. Now, I'm not sure if it applies to recurves, but with my compound, I put weights on it because it held steadier. It just works better for me. 

Thanks again for all the help guys!


----------



## XCalibre (Aug 31, 2006)

Sighting In said:


> I know it's cheating, but I like it that way. :shade:


it ain't cheating, it just a different equipment category.


----------

