# Mathews SQ2 Tuning



## erictski (May 20, 2009)

all three should come together nicely...bh and cam timing for me...my ATA is about 1/16 long...but bh and cam timing right on...Ata and bh are approximate so get them really close and then make sure the cam timing is spot on...


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## OHIOBUCK (Oct 25, 2006)

Hillbilliepig said:


> Just replaced the string/ cable on my son's SQ2, now it's time to tune the bow. With regards to the SQ2, does anyone know if it is more important to keep the A-A within spec then adjust cam timing and let BH fall where it may OR should the BH be the primary objective followed by cam timing and then let A-A fall where it may.


That's the way i tuned a friends sq2 and had no problems. Don't forget the idler lean.


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## Golyth (Oct 5, 2009)

*New*

Hey, I'm just starting to get into tuning and I'm trying bare shaft. Every time I learn one thing, I find out there's more I don't know. I have the ATA now at 30 5/8". That took a lot of twisting. It did put the BH at 8.5". Now though, the cam timing (if I am looking at it right) is off. From my understanding, the two holes are supposed to be parallel with the string and they are not. In saying that, what is the idler lean and what else do I need to look at.
Accepting any kind of help.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

I pretty sure every Mathews prior to the Switchback, the emphesis(sp) was on BH.
That said. I also like to get the idler lean set early, then cam orientation. Then you can start inching in on BH or ATA. When your close, check DL and Pounds, and you'll know how to proceed from there.


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## TN ARCHER (Jan 31, 2007)

Golyth said:


> Hey, I'm just starting to get into tuning and I'm trying bare shaft. Every time I learn one thing, I find out there's more I don't know. I have the ATA now at 30 5/8". That took a lot of twisting. It did put the BH at 8.5". Now though, the cam timing (if I am looking at it right) is off. From my understanding, the two holes are supposed to be parallel with the string and they are not. In saying that, what is the idler lean and what else do I need to look at.
> Accepting any kind of help.


Which bow do you have ?

Idler lean is checked while at full draw and anchored. Have someone look at the idler wheel and see which way it is leaning. You want it straight up and down AT FULL DRAW. Take one twist out of the yoke on the side it its leaning towards and add one to the opposite side until it is straight. Go by the top of the idler.


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## Golyth (Oct 5, 2009)

Allright, I made changes and I'm starting to believe that I am understanding the ways of tuning a bit better than before. Now for a little feedback.

Before After
BH 8.5 8 3/8"
ATA 30 5/8" 30 15/16"
Idler lean tilted to the right slight to the left (straight at draw)
Cam timing Not close Parallel with draw string

Even though the BH changed and the ATA is slightly off, the cam timing looks to be right on and the idler lean looks pretty sweet now (things that I didn't know to check before). Any opinions on other items to check? Does this look good for tuning? I haven't shot it since the latest change, but will be doing that tomorrow. This leads to one more question though. I have been trying to bare shaft tune before these changes, but I recently heard that its difficult with single cams. Have others tried this method and if so, were you successful? I was getting the arrows to line up, but had a consistent slight down angle (no side to side) on the bare shaft arrows. The arrows were staying in 2" groups with the good arrows and the bare shafts were 2-3" lower. Changed nock points, and it got worse either direction that I went (with multiple groups).


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## Golyth (Oct 5, 2009)

By the way, its a Mathews SQ2 from 1998. It has a SL2-AR cam, 30" draw, 85 5/8" string, and 70# draw. I have the draw set at 65# right now shooting Easton/Cabelas 65/80 arrows at a 29" length. The arrow rest is a Mathews 2 prong. My next step I think is spring tension on the prongs. 

And yes, if anyone is thinking or wondering, it took me ten years to decide to tune it. It was paper tuned originally at a shop, but recently, I started to shoot again and therefore needed to change the string. This caused me to take an interest in understanding more on the bow.


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