# Mounting AAE Free Flyte arrorw rest on Samick Sage



## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

I looked at some pics of that rest. Some rests are thick in construction and designed for a very deep past-center cut. I can't tell from the pics if that is so for this rest, however. 

That said, many elevated rests do not have a moveable, folding-back wire, and the rest remains sticking out as your shoot. A tuned arrow will clear the rest (just as it would shooting off of the immovable shelf) due to the bending of the arrow during paradox. So if your moveable rest isn't folding absolutely clear, that may not be a real concern.

When you say "arrow tab", are you referring to the plunger against which the shaft's side is touching? Perhaps the plunger is so near the riser that it is past the range of the string arm's motion. If you move the plunger outwards in order to obtain a better mate with the rest's swing, you are worried that the arrow will point too far to the left. Depending on the thickness of your rest, this may or may not actually be a problem. With a tuned arrow, the shaft's offset away from dead-center can be easily on the order of several shaft diameters outboard. But if you are attempting to adjust your shaft to just a hair outboard of center, then there is the possibility that this particular rest (combined with that particular riser's center cut) may not allow for such a close proximity. 

I have several Samick Polaris bows, and I believe that their risers are cut similarly to the Sage. I use a stick-on Bear Weather rest on these, and strip the tape and glue them on to obtain the minimum shaft offset from center. Even doing this, my shafts are not close to center line, but rather are offset a couple of diameters outboard. Looking at the AAE rest/plunger setup on my ILF riser (which is cut aggressively past center) and then comparing it to my Polaris riser (eyeballing vaguely), I don't think I could get that particular rest/plunger (and it's a fairly thin-profiled rest) to pull the shaft closer to the riser than my stick-on does. 

Others may know your specific rest/plunger setup and offer some tips other than my observations. 

As to the nock point location, you set the nock point to obtain the best arrow flight for your particular bow and technique. You are, in essence, adjusting yourself to the bow's fixed tiller. 

Read Post#2 on this thread: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2305411

Here I describe my tactic for obtaining a satisfactory nock location. As the post notes, if this tactic becomes more confusing then helpful, simply set your nock locator at about 4/8" and live with it for the time being until you decide to tackle it again. 

You'll get there. You've got new equipment on the bow, and some adjustment over time should shake things out. 

Good luck.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

rich.casale said:


> So I've been shooting my sage off the shelf for the last few months, but now want to use an elevated rest. Why screw up a good thing...lol. soon as you start adding rests- you'll start overthinking everythingFrom the directions that came with the AAE Free Flyte arrow rest that I got (after reading many reviews) the arrow tab should be nearly touching the riser,no, the arrow should be just to the left of the string for a RH shooter however when I adjust the rest so this is the case the magnetic swing arm that moves out of the way when the feathers pass by is not able to clear the arrow tab and remains stuck out into the path of the arrows. Is this bad? nope, its supposed to stick out- only the bottom flipper moves) Since the site window for sage is cut on center I'm afraid that moving the arrow tab farther away from the riser in order for the swing arm to clear the feathers will throw my arrow point too far to the left (I'm a right-handed shooter).check out tuning for tens and the easton recurve tuning setup- it will get you on the right path
> 
> Also, since the new rest is higher up than the shelf I'll obviously have to adjust my knock point up the string as well. a little but less than you would think Will this increase in knock height cause arrow issues that would normally be addressed by adjusting the tiller of the limbs? In talking with 3RiversArchery they indicated that with the Samick Sage they suggest a knock height of 5/8th above center instead of the typical 1/4".
> 
> Any thoughts, comments or concerns?


nock height/tiller--it's an individual thing
do you shoot split finger- what's the weight distribution on the fingers?
do you shoot 3 under

depending on our style of release used will depend on nock height and tiller...they kind of go hand in hand.

don't go by "specs" go by results tuning. Nock height for example-- NH is right when bare shaft and fletched are on the same elevation plane. I do agree that it's not a bad idea to set a higher nocking point then just shoot...tweak later-- you can spend a lot of time tweaking


I'd suggest moving the arrow point so it sits just to the left of the string (edge of shaft touching left edge of string)...when viewed from the shooting position (arrow nocked and at brace)


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## rich.casale (Jun 24, 2014)

I shoot 3 fingers under.

My goal is to get the arrow point just left of the string as Furry90Flier stated.

Tin Man - The Free Flyte arrow rest does not use a plunger but rather screws into the riser via the plunger hole opposite the site window and uses a springer metal clip to perform a similar function as the plunger. I can get it pretty close to the inside of the sight window now, but my arrow still sits far past the left of the string by two shaft widths. What I did not first acknowledge is that I left the leather side plate on the riser which pushes the arrow about about 1/4 of an inch out and this is what is preventing me from moving the whole magnetic rest closer--dough. If I remove the leather side plate I can adjust the rest almost flush with the riser and then re-evaluate my site picture then. The magnetic arm that the arrow actually rests on can be configured to push away from the riser and to give way as the feather passes by, however I can also reverse the magnet so that the support arm snaps towards the riser completely moving out of the way. I just wasn't sure how far I could get away with before things became a problem but I think I answered my own question. I'll have to remove the existing rest and side plate and see what I get.

As for nock height on the string yea I checked out that other post and what I'm seeing makes sense now. Even with the raised rest and adding 5/8 to the offset versus the 1/4 I still should be good and will just have to play with it a bit. Right now off the rest with 500 spined arrows and 100gr tips, the arrow is too stiff so I tend to shoot left with a tail wobble in the arrow. Getting a 600gr arrow with 125gr tips and moving my nock up a bit should resolve both issues. I'll have to do some bare shaft testing and then blow up some paper to see what my tears look like with the new adjustments. I just don't have a lot of experience with this kind of tuning so I'm not sure what I can get away with before I start to introduce other problems.

oh and incase anyone asks I use a face anchor putting my middle finger in the corner of my mouth. This comes naturally to me, my release on the other hand still needs some work. Thanks for the info.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

can you provide some pics of how it's mounted?

I'm trying to think about how that arm is sitting-- just doesn't sound right.

I know that rest can be used with or without that tab...maybe that riser just isn't a good candidate for that rest and tab.

get a 5/16- 24 nylon screw (hoby shop, hardware store, automotive supply) Or a nylon tipped screw....take the tab off.


PM sent...


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## Hank D Thoreau (Dec 9, 2008)

I use the AAE Freeflyte Elite rest. It is a highly adjustable rest that can be usef with or without a plunger. Rich is using the installed metal spring instead of a plunger. The rest is bolted on the far side of the window and wraps around the riser. The rest wire can be set as close to the riser as a stick on rest. The only issue I could think of is that it may not work with a bulky wood riser, but that does not appear to be the case. It is a nice rest but a bit of overkill unless you are changing arrow diameters all the time. I use AAE Champion II rests on most of my bows. I have the Freeflyte on my main bow. I bought two used to try. I have not had any problems with it and I have shot it for a couple of years. I have seen recent versions with plastic thumb screws that make them easily adjustable without tools.


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## rich.casale (Jun 24, 2014)

Yea I figured it out, it was my own stupidity, in that I left the thick side plate and rug rest on when I added the freeflyte causing it to be stick farther to the left. I removed all the previous rest bits and now it's right on the money, with nearly perfect alignment.

One question for Hank. Do you use the Teflon sleeve and shrink tubing on the rest or just leave the metal guides exposed.


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## Hank D Thoreau (Dec 9, 2008)

I do not use the sleeve. I am not sure but I thought the tubing was to quiet the bow. I am a target shooter so that is not a big priority.

Here is the best picture I could find of the bow with the Elyte rest.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

Sweet bare bow.

The more I shoot an Oly style bare bow...the more I want one.


As to the question on teflon. I used to use it all the time but now I don't bother--just lazy that way. The only difference between the two is a slight bit of noise from dragging the arrow across the wife....lol- wire.


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## 893301 (Sep 17, 2018)

Hank D Thoreau said:


> I do not use the sleeve. I am not sure but I thought the tubing was to quiet the bow. I am a target shooter so that is not a big priority.
> 
> Here is the best picture I could find of the bow with the Elyte rest.


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