# My Linear Press and Draw Board Combo. Thanks Everyone!



## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

I just finished my first major DIY project and I wanted to thank everyone here. I have no desire to sell them or make anything, I just enjoyed the build. Few, if any of the ideas were mine, I just put some together that I had seen here on AT. I used Goat's list of materials from McMaster Carr, Jim Posten's idea for a draw board and several others ideas and thoughts. The fingers definately are not as good looking as some of the CAD designs, but they work. It works great as a press and draw board, all in one unit.

Anway, here it is:shade:


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## ruttnwapati (Sep 22, 2008)

A+. Clean looking press. Nice welds!!:darkbeer:


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## bigchet (Mar 18, 2008)

nice work, good job.


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## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

Thanks for the compliments, my nephew did the welds and he did a great job. Here are a couple of pics of it drawing my Allegiance and one of the drawing bolt (it has a clear piece of tubing on it and the head is dipped in Plasti-Dip). The eye bolt is 3" higher than the bolt holding the grip and it draws almost perfectly level.


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## Hoyt Thompson (May 7, 2007)

That looks cool my friend


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## Ancient Archer (Sep 25, 2008)

Looks great! Clever design, well thought out and well made. Nice clean shop. Only one question. Why not connect the draw hook directly to the bow string?


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## Roman8r (Dec 12, 2008)

*Very nice*

Great job! How hard would it be to turn that into a draw board / shooter?


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## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

Ancient Archer said:


> Looks great! Clever design, well thought out and well made. Nice clean shop. Only one question. Why not connect the draw hook directly to the bow string?


Actually it is drawn from the D-loop, it just doesn't look like it. The paracord is loose and is just there in case the loop let go. I stole that idea from Nuts & Bolts.:icon_salut:

Roman8r-My ultimate plan is that there will be 3 cables attached to the eye bolt. The long one for normal drawing. A short one to use with a digital scale. And another with a release head attached. I think with a little more plasti dip and making sure the bow is secure, it would work well as a shooting machine. I do have to admit though, I am not 100% positive what the uses of the shooting machine are...:set1_thinking: Is it just to allow you to shoot without the human errors & see how consistent your setup is?


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## bevins587 (Jan 15, 2007)

What did you use to make the internal moving piece that actually presses the bow? Have any pictures of that?


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## Roman8r (Dec 12, 2008)

*Yes, one of the reasons*



atnole said:


> Actually it is drawn from the D-loop, it just doesn't look like it. The paracord is loose and is just there in case the loop let go. I stole that idea from Nuts & Bolts.:icon_salut:
> 
> Roman8r-My ultimate plan is that there will be 3 cables attached to the eye bolt. The long one for normal drawing. A short one to use with a digital scale. And another with a release head attached. I think with a little more plasti dip and making sure the bow is secure, it would work well as a shooting machine. I do have to admit though, I am not 100% positive what the uses of the shooting machine are...:set1_thinking: Is it just to allow you to shoot without the human errors & see how consistent your setup is?


I believe you can use it for setting pins or scope precisely,
....you can also confirm arrow grouping, (shooting the same arrow into the same hole and having it hit outside the aim point can pinpoint arrow flight inconsistencies)
....you can spray a dry powder like Tinactin on the fletching and check for interference or contact (you can do that manually as well)
....it can tell you if you're torqueing the bow when shooting (if the shooter hits the aim point and you can't)

I'm sure some of the more experienced guys can add to this list.

My draw board / shooter is still in the drawing phase. I hope to have it done soon.


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## hunlee (Jan 9, 2009)

Hunlee is impressed:shade:

hunlee


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## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

bevins587 said:


> What did you use to make the internal moving piece that actually presses the bow? Have any pictures of that?


I used the following parts from McMaster Carr: Their shipping is really fast and reasonable.

1 4931T132 Steel Nestable Square Tubing Solid, Plain Finish, 1-3/4" Outside SQ Sz, 4'L $17.22 Each 
1 4931T31 Steel Nestable Square Tubing Solid, Plain Finish, 1-1/2" Outside SQ Sz, 4'L $17.08 Each 
1 98935A838 Plain Steel General Purpose Acme Threaded Rod Right Hand, 3/4"-6 Acme Size, 3' Length (Same as 98935A300) $14.43 Each 
3 94815A109 Plain Steel Acme 2G Hex Nut Right-Hand, 3/4"-6 Acme Size $3.09 Each 
1 9959K22 Chrome-Plated Steel One-Piece Clamp-on Collar 3/4" Bore, 1-1/2" Outside Diameter, 1/2" Width $4.42 Each 
1 6655K39 Steel Ball Thrust Bearing Stainless Steel, for 3/4" Shaft Dia, 1-1/4" OD $5.83 Each

I placed the parts like this:

















The collar went inside the 1-3/4" tubing (I had to grind down the allen head after tightening). The washer is a 2" outside diameter washer with a 3/4" bore. This got welded to the outside of the 1-3/4" tubing. Then I put the thrust washer. The 2 nuts are then "jammed" together tightly. The socket is for an oil sensing unit and worked well because it had a 3/8" drive opening. This allowed me to use the ratcheting breaker bar ($10 at Harbor Freight) for fine adjustments or my drill for making long movements.

Thanks for everyone's nice comments. I feel especially honored that Hunlee approved:wink:


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## eflanders (Dec 8, 2007)

I am extremely impressed with this press and how simple yet efficient everything is!


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## JWT (Jan 3, 2006)

Very nice work! Very cool innovation, I like the way you think!!:shade:


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## Big Eazy (Mar 12, 2007)

Excellent


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## twistedfreak (Sep 9, 2007)

very very nice its a double job well done


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## Technophyle (Mar 3, 2009)

Well Done!! Wish I could weld.... Would love to make one for myself!


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## eflanders (Dec 8, 2007)

Can you provide us with some dimensions please?


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## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

Thanks Everyone. JWT your press post helped me work things out. Just to try and help anyone thinking about making there own, here are some of the dimensions:

1 main 1-3/4" tubing- 33" 
1 secondary 1-1/2" tubing-33-1/2"
2 90 degree arms for mounting fingers (1-1/2" tubing)- 5"
4 sleeves for mounting fingers (1-3/4" tubing)- 1-1/2"
4 Fingers 1-1/2"x5"x1/4" bar stock (3 are notched 1/4", one is flat to accomodate the draw stop on my Alley)
1-3/4" tubing for mounting in vise or whatever- 9"
This all left me about 6" of 1-1/2" tubing as leftover.

It will press down to 22" and out to about 52". I guess that would handle about any bow.


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## WDMJR3DBOWGUY (Dec 2, 2003)

Where in ne fla are you? I'd like to see this thing in person


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## JWT (Jan 3, 2006)

atnole said:


> Thanks Everyone. JWT your press post helped me work things out. Just to try and help anyone thinking about making there own, here are some of the dimensions:
> 
> 1 main 1-3/4" tubing- 33"
> 1 secondary 1-1/2" tubing-33-1/2"
> ...


Glad I could help, I may just be calling Mcmaster in the morning:shade: archers helping archers:darkbeer::darkbeer::darkbeer:


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## Antihunter (May 5, 2005)

Sweet design!:thumbs_up.

I see you have some type of "insulator" on the bar when using as a draw board,I would get some flexible tubing (plumbing dept.) from a Lowes/Home Depot and eliminate that issue.


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## kzz1king (Jan 21, 2007)

Great workmanship and design. I may copy that someday soon! Thanks.:shade:


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## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

Thanks for the nice comments. I appreciate the input. 



Antihunter said:


> Sweet design!:thumbs_up.
> 
> I see you have some type of "insulator" on the bar when using as a draw board,I would get some flexible tubing (plumbing dept.) from a Lowes/Home Depot and eliminate that issue.


Actually, it may not show it well, but the bolt that supports the bow when it is drawn is drawn is covered by a clear tube that I did get from the Lowes plumbing dept. I just plasti-dipped the head of the bolt so that area would be protected as well.


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## Dead Center (Dec 24, 2006)

Very well thought out and looks to be very well built.

Good Job :thumbs_up


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## hunlee (Jan 9, 2009)

Just lookin at yur bow press get Hunlee all excited:banana: Hunlee need to get started very soon!!!!!!!!

hunlee


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## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

I appreciate your slightly creepy enthusiasm Hunlee...:laugh2:.


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## JIM PRATER (May 3, 2003)

ttt


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## sngehl01 (Apr 23, 2006)

looks good but I have a couple questions.

What is the purpose of part 9959K22 (Chrome-Plated Steel One-Piece Clamp-on Collar 3/4" Bore, 1-1/2" Outside Diameter, 1/2" Width)? Do you place it at the very end of the bar so you don't loosen it to a point where the press comes apart or something?

Secondly, instead of using two nuts in a "jam-nut" fashion, couldn't you just weld the one nut to the end of the acme threaded rod?

On the smaller OD square tubing, did you weld a plate on the end on the side, with a hole drilled in it with a nut in the middle? Then, as you turn the handle, it would work the nut one way or the other up and down the rod, thus adding or removing pressure from the press?

I'm just not exactly sure how this whole mechanism works... I think I've got a good idea, possibly have it figured out, but just thought I'd ask for som clarifications... thanks! Looks good!

Nick


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## oddg241 (Nov 26, 2004)

*Posters*

I like everything about this press. The thing I don't like brings back bad memories. The posters of the FSU - Nebraska games! ! lol


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## nolejoel (Jan 4, 2007)

nice setup and design, would love to have one in my shop!!!!!!!!!!!:shade::shade:


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

I would like to see the answers also. I hope to be building one soon.


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## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

sngehl01 said:


> looks good but I have a couple questions.
> 
> What is the purpose of part 9959K22 (Chrome-Plated Steel One-Piece Clamp-on Collar 3/4" Bore, 1-1/2" Outside Diameter, 1/2" Width)? Do you place it at the very end of the bar so you don't loosen it to a point where the press comes apart or something?
> 
> ...


Nick 
The collar is used to anchor the rod on the other side of the washer (which is welded to the end of the 1-3/4" tubing). This holds the rod in place while it is rotating inside the 1-3/4" tubing. I think if you look at these pictures you will see how it sets up.

In the following picture the collar is on the left. The washer would be on the right of it, followed by the bearing and the 2 nuts.









Here you can see the welded washer. The collar is on the other side of the washer, inside the tubing.









You could weld the nut on the rod, but by jamming 2 nuts together, I can take it back apart if I ever need to. 

In order to install the nut on the end of the smaller tubing, I ground 2 of the edges of the nut down slightly until it slid snugly into the tubing and then welded it in place.

The good thing is if you have the pieces in front of you, it really falls into place easily. 

Good luck and thanks for the positive comments.


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

Ahhh!! That's where the 3rd nut on the list goes. I new I was missing something. I thought you had an extra nut for when you loose one of yours lifting the press.


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## csobx2 (Sep 16, 2007)

ttt


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## bevins587 (Jan 15, 2007)

How come you only cut the finger shape out one side and not both?


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## Hoyt Thompson (May 7, 2007)

bevins587 said:


> How come you only cut the finger shape out one side and not both?


I believe you will find that 3 of the fingers have lips on them and one does not.

This is because the binary cams have a draw stop peg that you need to leave in the bow and a regular finger with the lip will not work.

see here.


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## bevins587 (Jan 15, 2007)

What keeps it from slipping up and out? Just the pressure and the finger on the other side?


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## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

Hoyt Thompson was right, the one flat finger allows me to use it without removing the drawstop. 

Since the finger right beside it has a lip and the fingers are coated in plasti dip, the bow is held very securely. It won't move at all once any pressure is applied.


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## Grand River Zip (Jun 29, 2006)

*impressive*

That is a great one! The new Elite bows have 2 draw stops, one on each cam, do you think having only 1 finger at each eand supporting it frm above would be enough? My hunch is that it would be fine.

Dan


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## whiteflag (Apr 7, 2008)

Looks good, very practicle and simple!


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## Db65 (Mar 22, 2009)

looks good. great design


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## Dodgedude (Jan 29, 2005)

Nice work! 

Makes me want to take the one I built and throw it in the river...
back to the drawing board.

Thanks for the pictures


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## Powerstroker (Oct 2, 2008)

ttt


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## [email protected] (Mar 11, 2006)

Robert, that is one of the cleanest & simplest design that I have saw here!Thanks for posting! Looks like I will be doing some building of my own!


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## RandBow (Apr 6, 2005)

*Slack*

How tight do the two sections of square tube fit together? Did you have to add anything to take out any slop.

Tom


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## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Robert, that is one of the cleanest & simplest design that I have saw here!Thanks for posting! Looks like I will be doing some building of my own!


Thanks for the compliment. Good luck with your build.



RandBow said:


> How tight do the two sections of square tube fit together? Did you have to add anything to take out any slop.
> 
> Tom


They are made to nest, so they fit together well. No need to add anything.


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## Maine Woods (May 17, 2007)

Hello Atnole I have looked at this since you first posted it. I guess I am going to make a version of this myself. I have always admired "clean simple" design, you have done that and looks like it works great! I may end up with a question or 3 along the way. Great job and thanks for the impetus to build my own ( borrowing from you and others of course:wink


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## madarchery (May 28, 2003)

Have you had any problems with the figures bending while using it a s draw board? I would think that plate stell would not handle the stress of the long peg while drawing. 

I would think if you ran the bolt longer and attached to the inside fingure and bore the outside fingure to run the bolt thru you would have greater strength and less warppage under stress. Same with the eyebolt.

Other then that I like.


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## team_realtree (Mar 17, 2009)

why is your d loop so big??


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## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

Maine Woods said:


> Hello Atnole I have looked at this since you first posted it. I guess I am going to make a version of this myself. I have always admired "clean simple" design, you have done that and looks like it works great! I may end up with a question or 3 along the way. Great job and thanks for the impetus to build my own ( borrowing from you and others of course:wink


MW
I am glad to hear it. I got almost all of the ideas from others here as well, so if I can help you in any way just let me know.


madarchery said:


> Have you had any problems with the figures bending while using it a s draw board? I would think that plate stell would not handle the stress of the long peg while drawing.
> 
> I would think if you ran the bolt longer and attached to the inside fingure and bore the outside fingure to run the bolt thru you would have greater strength and less warppage under stress. Same with the eyebolt.
> 
> Other then that I like.


MA
I thought about this when drawing up the design, but there have been absolutely no problems with the steel flexing, bending or anything. Once I started putting it together, it became clear that I wouldn't have any problems, and once completed it has been rock solid. A piece of 1-1/2"x5"X1/4" steel, even when torqued by the rod, is not going to bend under the stress of a drawn bow. If that were the case, I doubt any of our wrists would be able to handle shooting one. If you connected the rods between the 2 fingers, it would cause clearance issues with the cams, and make adjustment of the finger spacing harder. I guess you could make the fingers much longer to overcome the clearance problem, but really it just isn't necessary. Anyway, I hope this helps. Of course, I am prone to overengineering at times, so if you are still concerned, I would love to see what you come up with. Good luck.:thumbs_up


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## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

I had a couple of questions about how the smaller tube attaches to the Acme rod, so I took the press apart and took a pic. As you can see, there is a nut welded to the inside of the smaller tube at the end that inserts into the larger tube. When it was installed, I had to grind down two of the edges on the nut, but it then fit perfect.


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## whiteflag (Apr 7, 2008)

I put one together using all your specs, Works really well!! Only problem with mine is I couldn't find that style of lock collar for the rod, so I welded a bushing onto it. I didn't get it centered so it binds up a little. I just have to to some grinding and it should be fine.:thumbs_up:thumbs_up:thumbs_up:thumb:


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## KDS (Oct 11, 2005)

*Thanks for the thread Robert!!!!*

This is a really sweet design!!!!! I just copied and pasted the things to order from MC, printed it out and went from there Square tubing is a dollar less than what orignally posted, and my total for the parts was 65.93,,,minus shipping:darkbeer: If you follow Robert's guidelines, you will have a really nice press/draw machine for 125.00 or so,,,,you could not buy anything similar for that cost. Thanks again for the thread Robert and the guys who's idea's fueled the design for the linear press:darkbeer::darkbeer:


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## KDS (Oct 11, 2005)

KDS said:


> This is a really sweet design!!!!! I just copied and pasted the things to order from MC, printed it out and went from there Square tubing is a dollar less than what orignally posted, and my total for the parts was 65.93,,,plus shipping:darkbeer: If you follow Robert's guidelines, you will have a really nice press/draw machine for 125.00 or so,,,,you could not buy anything similar for that cost. Thanks again for the thread Robert and the guys who's idea's fueled the design for the linear press:darkbeer::darkbeer:




:mg::darkbeer:


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## hunlee (Jan 9, 2009)

Hunlee is one that has press and draw machine juss like this one here!!!!!!!!Only things that Hunlee do differant was to make finger thickness 3/8 inch over 1/4 inch,,,,,,said press is on self standing "stand" and Hunlee has blue plastic dip over black!!!!!!!One more thing that is differant is the paint,,,,,Hunlee use black paint an not green!!!!!!!!!This bow press work like a charm on Pse xforce6 bow of of Hunlee and allso very good on new MONSTER BOW from mathew!!!!!!!!Very soon Hunlee will be postin picture of me new press for youall gander at!!!!!!!!Hunlee is one that is very proud and allso is one that stand very tall,,,,,,and Hunlee is no braggard!!!!!!!
:ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja:

hunlee


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## jbuttolph (Jan 23, 2009)

Awesome thread! I am going to have to do some work to convert my EZ press into a draw machine. I will post some pics when I get it done. Thanks for all the advice.


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## tonyb (Apr 12, 2006)

*super press*

I loved this idea as soon as I saw it so I made one. It took about 3 hours and 45$ and it turned out pretty good(its not painted yet) but I may have created a problem. I use a cordless drill to adjust the press but my press seems to be a little out of wack. It seems like it is not set up exactly right and I wonder if the nut in the end of the small OD tube is not aligned properly. I noticed you said you ground your nut down to slide in and mine was small enough to fall in by itself. Has anybody had this problem or am I the lucky idiot. Regardless of my idiotic assembly this is still the best press yet I've seen. I just wish it was a little bit lighter (i dropped it on my foot and my foot gave more than the press). Thanks for the idea and hopefully for the help. Tony..


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## tonyb (Apr 12, 2006)

*another thought*

I was just thinking, I used a piece of allthread. Is acme rod a better quality steel? Could this be my problem? Is it possible to make all of this out of not so big and bulky products? Could it be made of 1" tube and smaller nuts and rod? Let me know. thanks, tony..


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## [email protected] (Mar 11, 2006)

tonyb said:


> I was just thinking, I used a piece of allthread. Is acme rod a better quality steel? Could this be my problem? Is it possible to make all of this out of not so big and bulky products? Could it be made of 1" tube and smaller nuts and rod? Let me know. thanks, tony..


I found a 3' length of acme rod at a local machine shop. It is a much better choice for this press than al-thread.Much deeper threads as well as a faster twist i believe.They priced the rod, 3 nuts, & a lock colar to me for $47.All I need now is a thrust bearing & I should be able to start my build. I had all the rest of the materials, so should be able to build my press for around $50. + my time.Wish me luck, my welding skills are........well, they're pretty bad.


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## Hoyt Thompson (May 7, 2007)

welds can be ugly like mine but still hold. LOL Just lay it thick.


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## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

tonyb said:


> I was just thinking, I used a piece of allthread. Is acme rod a better quality steel? Could this be my problem? Is it possible to make all of this out of not so big and bulky products? Could it be made of 1" tube and smaller nuts and rod? Let me know. thanks, tony..


Thanks everyone for the compliments. I am glad I was able to pay back some of the ideas and help I have gotten here on AT:thumb:

Tony
Congrats on the press, even if it a little rough. It is hard to say without looking at it what is causing it to bind. I know if I am not careful in setting up the 2 "jam" nuts they can be too tight against the thrust bearing and make it hard to turn. I will say that I personally would not be comfortable using smaller scale parts than what I used. The 3/4"-6 acme rod is excellent. It gives a fast turn, but still makes very small adjustments. I hope you can get it worked out.
Robert


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## coonhound0 (Sep 5, 2008)

awesome press! now i need to get on the ball.


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## gusDuenas (Apr 5, 2008)

awesome press, do you mind to share the plans?
I'm more of a visual guys, but a detailed one too.

Gus


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## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

Thanks Gus. I don't have any plans per se. The pictures, parts list and dimensions should get you going pretty well. If you run into any problems, let me know.


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## hunlee (Jan 9, 2009)

Hear is press of Hunlee!!!!!!!!This is combo pres an darwin machine like posted on first page!!!!!!Hunlee has not added the fixins to make it draw machine yet tho!!!!!!!!!Awesome press for very little money and will press xforce and Monster bow









hunlee


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## oldglorynewbie (Oct 17, 2006)

Nice job Hunlee. :thumb:


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## tmo (Feb 5, 2009)

Very nice!


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## RandBow (Apr 6, 2005)

*Thumb screws*

What size thumb screws did you use for locking the fingers in place?


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## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

RandBow said:


> What size thumb screws did you use for locking the fingers in place?


They are 5/16" x 1". Good luck!:wink:


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## BB4UA (Jun 9, 2008)

Great job!! I've just begun to gather material. Thanks to everyone that shared info, these are tuff times DYI is the only way to aford this equipment. Hope to be posting pics in a few weeks


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## JWT (Jan 3, 2006)

hunlee said:


> Hear is press of Hunlee!!!!!!!!This is combo pres an darwin machine like posted on first page!!!!!!Hunlee has not added the fixins to make it draw machine yet tho!!!!!!!!!Awesome press for very little money and will press xforce and Monster bow
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice work Hunlee, glad you came and joined the DIY club.


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## nostawyroc (Dec 12, 2008)

Looks good


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## jbuttolph (Jan 23, 2009)

Well, here is my version, not quite the craftmanship as some of the others, because I am lacking a little in the machine shop department. I could have simplified it but didn't want to drill holes in my EZ press. I am going to paint it tonight, just wanted to put up some progress photos. Thanks for all the great ideas.


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## jbuttolph (Jan 23, 2009)

Here it is in action. I am not quite at full draw because the bow wants to lean on me a little when i pull it through the valley. I am going to fix that tonight.


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## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

:hello2:Very nice adaptation on your press!


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## Hoyt Thompson (May 7, 2007)

jbuttolph said:


> Here it is in action. I am not quite at full draw because the bow wants to lean on me a little when i pull it through the valley. I am going to fix that tonight.


My suggestion would be to either use some pipe wrap ti make a cushion to help hug the bow or fabing up a holding pin with a cradle in it.

Look at your hand and get some ideas and you will understand the cradle idea.


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## Hogwort (Aug 1, 2005)

*Bow press*

Hey Atnole,

Great post. I've had a similar design partialy built in my garage for a long time but got stumped on how to build the adjustable fingers untill I saw yours. I like the design, it looks like it would work well and it looks like it won't be that hard to build.

Thanx, Hogwort.


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## jbuttolph (Jan 23, 2009)

Hoyt Thompson said:


> My suggestion would be to either use some pipe wrap ti make a cushion to help hug the bow or fabing up a holding pin with a cradle in it.
> 
> Look at your hand and get some ideas and you will understand the cradle idea.


PIPE Wrap..... Good idea. I was thinking of something like that, just not sure of what material to use.


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## hunlee (Jan 9, 2009)

Hunlee is very much impressed with additions to ez press!!!!!!!!Hunlee has yet to add parts on new press so it can be used as draw board machine!!!!!!!Maybe hunlee do that tomorrow!!!!!!!!!!Ifso Hunlee take close up picture or two of nice press setup!!!!!!!!!!!!

hunlee


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## jbuttolph (Jan 23, 2009)

*all done!*

I just added some paint to dress it up a little. I still have to come up with something to hold the bow vertical. My AM 35 wants to lean a little to the side, but the reezen stands straight up as is. Thanks again for all the great ideas!


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## JWT (Jan 3, 2006)

jbuttolph said:


> PIPE Wrap..... Good idea. I was thinking of something like that, just not sure of what material to use.


Some hose..garden, air, vaccuum....any hose that will fit over the pipe.


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## jbuttolph (Jan 23, 2009)

I have the hose, clear rubber, over the bolt. I just need something additional to squeeze the grip from the side for lateral stability. I was thinking maybe pipe insulation, the black foam kind.


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## Hoyt Thompson (May 7, 2007)

jbuttolph said:


> I have the hose, clear rubber, over the bolt. I just need something additional to squeeze the grip from the side for lateral stability. I was thinking maybe pipe insulation, the black foam kind.


You might wanna try the tarp bungees with the ball on them. You can use these to strap the bow to the pin and it might give you enoughtension to keep the bow upright.

loop it on the pin put bow on and bring it in front of the bow and place the loop over the pin again. then take the ball and slide it down to cinch it to the pin.


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## Mudrat96 (May 10, 2009)

looks great. I hope to build me a press here in the near future. Lots of good ideas put into yours. Good job


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## bigchet (Mar 18, 2008)

nice job on the press, glad to see all the help you have offered to others. great job chet


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## Skyking (Sep 17, 2006)

Anybody using this type of press on a crossbow, sucha as the StrykeForce by Bowtech? It's a little past parallel. I really like the looks of the press and plan to build one if it will work on crossbows. Thanks for all the ideas and posts.


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## skynight (Nov 5, 2003)

jbuttolph said:


> I just added some paint to dress it up a little. I still have to come up with something to hold the bow vertical. My AM 35 wants to lean a little to the side, but the reezen stands straight up as is. Thanks again for all the great ideas!


I'm thinking along these lines myself, but was going to make inserts for the front of the press - into the square tube steel. Instead of just a hook I think I will bolt a winch on the non-moving side so I can draw the bow most of the way without running the screw forever. I think the press will still be usable with the inserts in, but might have to take them out.

I want to make mine so I can hook a string or cable to it and stretch it to a hook on a wall stud and put it under pressure for measuring length.


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## shoei-hunt (Apr 27, 2009)

That is a nice press. I think I might try to copy it. Do you have any more detailed plans other than the pics posted?

Thank you for your time and assistance in this matter.


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## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

shoei-hunt said:


> That is a nice press. I think I might try to copy it. Do you have any more detailed plans other than the pics posted?
> 
> Thank you for your time and assistance in this matter.


Thanks Shoie. I don't have any plans other than what is in the thread. If you use the parts list, dimensions, and pics listed, you won't have any problems. Once you start laying it out, it becomes pretty simple. This is evident by the fact that I did it!
If you have any problems, send me a pm...Good luck with the build.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## venom shooter (Oct 2, 2006)

*Thanks atnole!*

Thanks for sharing, I'm waiting on some fingers from sootball. Thay are one that a guy doesn't have to take off draw stops to work on bows. Then it's off to the races welding her up! Thanks everybody for shareing! venom


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## venom shooter (Oct 2, 2006)

*bearing update*

I am going to use 2 thrust bearings, 1 on the inside and 1 on the outside. Found them at vxb.com. Search= Kit7855 they are $3.95 each. They are for 3/4" rod. Just wanted to pass this on too you guys. Thanks venom. Also round handwheels at grizzly.com. 61/4" wheel and handle for $5.95! Search = h3474, shipped was $13 something. Get building guys!


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## ArcheryBowx (Mar 2, 2003)

thats sharp!!!!!!!!!


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## klemsontigers7 (Jul 1, 2008)

Is it necessary to make some way for the bow to be held when not being pressed? Is it impossible for the bow to slip while being pressed? I would hate for it to slip out of the fingers and not have the riser held in some way.


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## a1shooter (Mar 27, 2009)

*Ditto*



hunlee said:


> Hear is press of Hunlee!!!!!!!!This is combo pres an darwin machine like posted on first page!!!!!!Hunlee has not added the fixins to make it draw machine yet tho!!!!!!!!!Awesome press for very little money and will press xforce and Monster bow
> 
> 
> 
> ...





JWT said:


> Nice work Hunlee, glad you came and joined the DIY club.


Very im*press*ive!


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## atnole (Jul 3, 2008)

Nice Hunlee!
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Petapal (Nov 29, 2007)

TTT for a good design.:shade:


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## treeslinger2 (Feb 23, 2010)

Great looking set-up!! I am in the process of building one as well and everyone on the DIY section has such great ideas it makes it difficult to settle into a complete design.
I stay confused on what would work best then here comes another cool take on the same thing. My solution is to quit looking. LOL


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