# Running full length arrows vs. cut?



## theblacksage (Jan 29, 2017)

What are the advantages of each? I am currently using Gold Tip arrows cut to 29.5 that were sold to me when I bought my bow a year ago, but uncut would be 31 inches. I'd like to save a little money by not paying someone to cut new arrows down every time.


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## Kurookami (Jan 22, 2017)

I am also wondering this is as a newbie, not for financial reasons, but as a newb, I don't have my draw length fine tuned yet. I'll be starting with 28.5", but could go up, and since people cut arrows .5-1" long, I'm worried about my arrows becoming too short. If they are uncut, I'll be fine until I zero in my DL.


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## theblacksage (Jan 29, 2017)

My draw length increased as I built strength, so my arrows could be a little too short. I'm starting to experience stacking with my bow, which further complicates things.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

I don't cut them unless it's for a specific purpose.


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## fieldnfeathers (Nov 7, 2013)

grantmac said:


> I don't cut them unless it's for a specific purpose.


^^^This. I keep full length arrows and adjust point/insert weight as needed until I'm tuned. I use them full length to reduce my point on distance. That said, my current full length arrows are 31.5". I'm going to set up some new Black Eagle Instinct arrows when they're ready to order in my spine. They come 34" and are micro diameter. I think they are going to be an excellent arrow.


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## Brad Lehmann (Sep 4, 2010)

I did this for years but sure like the performance of the bow more using as short an arrow as my draw length allows. Try this little experiment. Cut one arrow to your draw length and mix it in with your full length arrows. Then, while shooting, notice which arrow flies faster and hits harder than the rest of arrows. You can thank me later.


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## MGF (Oct 27, 2012)

well sure, a lighter arrow starts out moving faster and I suppose you can tune for any length arrow that you like. I like them long for a couple of reasons.

First off, those of us who hunt usually don't mind a little bit of weight. A longer arrow will reduce your gaps/point on distance...a little weight doesn't hurt in that regard either. Lastly, why do work that doesn't need to be done?

You can always cut them if you decide you need to for some reason but, once cut, it hard to get the length back. LOL


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## Sauk Mountain (Aug 3, 2015)

toohunglo said:


> I did this for years but sure like the performance of the bow more using as short an arrow as my draw length allows. Try this little experiment. Cut one arrow to your draw length and mix it in with your full length arrows. Then, while shooting, notice which arrow flies faster and hits harder than the rest of arrows. You can thank me later.


Lol.


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## Bowmania (Jan 3, 2003)

Of course, longer arrows are heavier and shorter are stiffer. It doesn't matter whether they're longer or shorter, only the tuning matters. You need an arrow that flies STRAIGHT. If you're just starting out (2 and 18 posts) grouping is probably more important, because grouping relates to a more consistent form. You'd probably be best served by blank bailing for a month - if you had good form. No sense drilling bad habits into you head. AND the fastest way to get good form is get a coach. Then tuning becomes more important.

For tuning, print out and learn this www.acsbows.com/bowtuing.thml click "download printable version".

We love helping Newbs. If you lived in WI you'd get a PM.

Bowmania


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

toohunglo said:


> Then, while shooting, notice which arrow flies faster and hits harder than the rest of arrows. You can thank me later.


Which sounds great until you have three boxes of almost brand new arrows that are now too short to safely shoot. I wound up just giving them away.

There are no downsides to a full length arrow for most North American hunters.


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## theblacksage (Jan 29, 2017)

Bowmania said:


> Of course, longer arrows are heavier and shorter are stiffer. It doesn't matter whether they're longer or shorter, only the tuning matters. You need an arrow that flies STRAIGHT. If you're just starting out (2 and 18 posts) grouping is probably more important, because grouping relates to a more consistent form. You'd probably be best served by blank bailing for a month - if you had good form. No sense drilling bad habits into you head. AND the fastest way to get good form is get a coach. Then tuning becomes more important.
> 
> For tuning, print out and learn this ***** click "download printable version".
> 
> ...


What exactly is blank bale? No target?

Also, I like that you have that page memorized and just typed the URL instead of copying and pasting! I don't have enough posts to correct the typos but I would re-post the link if it I were able.


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## Hank D Thoreau (Dec 9, 2008)

I aim with the arrow tip, stringwalking and pick-a-point. I find that I get better results when I have an inch or more of arrow extending beyond the back of the bow. That limits my arrow choices since I have a 32 inch draw length. I also shoot arrows that I pull back to the rest. I did not have too much trouble with the past couple of years, but I had real problems a few years ago shooting indoors. It seemed that I just could not get the arrow to land higher on the target. This was with fat indoor arrows. There are some folks who actually cut their arrows to get a particular point-on. Tune is still the most important reason, especially if you are shooting arrows that come in "century" spines, i.e. 400, 500, 600. You are limited if all you can control is point weight. I know. With my draw length I am often in a position where I cannot cut arrow.


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## 4 Fletch (Jan 25, 2014)

theblacksage said:


> What exactly is blank bale? No target?


Search engines can be very helpful in this regard. :wink:



> Also, I like that you have that page memorized and just typed the URL instead of copying and pasting! I don't have enough posts to correct the typos but I would re-post the link if it I were able.


Fixed it: http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html


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## Nekekal (Dec 25, 2012)

You are only talking about 1 1/2 inches in length. Depending on the arrow, this might be 10 grains. You will not notice this for penetration, speed, or anything else. My draw length also changed over time. Fortunately, I left them full length. Shorter arrows are a bit stiffer than longer arrows given any spine rating. I don't have a measure of how much it changes per inch.

But I don't think that there is any good reason to cut an arrow by only an inch. Leave them full length.


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## Stub (Aug 13, 2013)

I always leave my arrows full length. Smaller gaps, more weight, and easy to trade or sell them uncut.


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## 893301 (Sep 17, 2018)

theblacksage said:


> What are the advantages of each? I am currently using Gold Tip arrows cut to 29.5 that were sold to me when I bought my bow a year ago, but uncut would be 31 inches. I'd like to save a little money by not paying someone to cut new arrows down every time.


I keep my GT Trads at full length. Mainly for the extra 20 grains and don't have to deal with the annoying clerks at archery shops


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## Hank D Thoreau (Dec 9, 2008)

Full length for me because my draw length is 32 inches. Otherwise I would cut to lighten 

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk


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## Hillscreek_kid (Mar 5, 2021)

I have a fairly long draw but I do cut my arrows a little because I like to use a 250 grain point for hunting. I had a old dermal tool I mounted to a track and have a arrow squaring tool. So cutting them does not cost much. For me its cheaper to stick with one point weight and cutting vs having a bunch of point and insert weights on hand.


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## 1canvas (Mar 29, 2009)

I keep mine full length because it keeps my point on shorter for hunting but it also helps me align my arrow with the target better.


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## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

Full length - longer arrows are make for smaller gaps and more accurate shots for me.


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## TASmith (Mar 10, 2019)

I start with full length (32”) shafts and will cut up to an inch off a quarter inch at a time to get them to tune with lightweight tips.

For 3D I shoot 32” arrows with 60g point and 12g insert for an arrow weight of 285g. This gives me a 27 yard point on with my 26” draw length.

For hunting I cut an inch off an inch and use an 85g broadhead.


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## 3D Archery (May 19, 2016)

Full length. It helps your mind to "figure" things out if you shoot "Instinctive" and if you aim, your "GAPS" are smaller. Those claims about lower speeds and less hitting power are based on what? How much weight do you remove by taking an inch off? A few grains? Shooting "Trad", we normally shoot 20 yards and under and you will see no difference in performance.


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## vincenthanna (Feb 25, 2020)

I see no advantage in cutting your arrows. I shoot mine full length. This allows you to play around a little more with point weight, to see what the bow likes the best. Leave them full length and try a bunch of different field point weights. FP/s are cheap, arrows are not. Leaving your arrows full length gives you more tuning and aiming options.


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## raisins (Jan 21, 2016)

Full length arrows help you use the arrow tip as an aiming reference, if that is your game, it shortens your gap.


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## Lawsondmd (Apr 29, 2020)

I’ve only recently been building my own arrows (past 4-5 months). Mainly experimenting with shaft weight (Gpi) , point weight , longer arrows with stiffer spines to get a heavier arrow that’s tunes well with my draw weight. The goal is to get a lower point on at 20 yards (18 meters) so I’m aiming on or at least close to the paper target in a indoor competition. Never did any competition and want to experience it. I’ll be getting an arrow saw very soon (back ordered with Lancaster ) so before I start cutting up shafts to understand how arrow length effects point on my question is this
I understand have arrow weight greatly effects point on and I’ve read the in many places longer arrows decrease point on BUT by how much significance? For instance , with all things being equal , an arrow over hanging the riser 1 inch vs. 2.5 inches is the point on difference (in general) that great? If so ok , but if not then maybe concentrate on arrow weight instead. 
Usually before I ask a question I’ll do a search here , or google or go back to Shooting the stick bow and find my answer . But interestingly can’t find this answer anywhere. Ps ,sorry about being wordy , just trying to be as specific in my question as I can, thanks


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## m60gunner (Mar 15, 2003)

Why pay to cut your arrows when for about $12 you can buy a small saw and miter box from the hobby store. A stick of hot melt and a heat source and your good to go. It seems now days everyone buys overspined shafts then leave them full length and add a ton of weight. Guess it’s OK for those who don’t shoot past 25 yards. I tried that once, shooting a field round. Didn’t like the arrows dropping like rocks past 30 yards. Should have know better I shot 2020 aluminums from my recurves back n the 70’s. Arrows hit the deck at 50 yards.


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## 3finger (Mar 29, 2018)

The cost of having arrows cut is so small i(n comparison to all of the reasons full length might not be ideal) it would compel me to invest in an arrow saw.


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## JusAguy (Mar 9, 2017)

Like some folks, i like to run a heavier tip/broadhead for hunting so that became the 'constant' in determining arrow length (given my DL for minimum arrow length and the necessary spine to shoot straight).


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