# Wanting to paint a bow.. What paint to use???



## Tiggie_00 (Jul 18, 2009)

Hello, My boy has a Trykon Sport and its APG camo. He seen another bow that had camo limbs with a Black riser. So he wants me to paint the riser and Im not sure what paint to use. I have seen Flat black Engine paint and Flat Laquer Black paint. Im not sure what to use.. Or maybe you all could recommend something durable. thanks :darkbeer: I have had alot of people tell me Laquer would be the way to go but I was wanting a few opinions before I jumped in..


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## chriss2375 (Jun 9, 2008)

I have done a few hoyt risers with textured truck bed liner i think it's rustoleum. The finish is almost identicle to the new finish hoyt is using. I did completely disassemble the bow and sand blast the whole riser first and so far it seems to be pretty durable but you probably won't be able to get anything as duarble as the facory paint.


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## rustyfence (Aug 3, 2006)

Dis-assemble the bow, and strip the camo first. There are chemical strippers that will work. Then your best bet would be to powdercoat it. 

If you can not powdercoat it your self, send it to someone. The will strip it and coat it for a reasonable price. 

I do powdercoating, Jim Posten also does powdercoating. Give one of us a shout if you want to have it done.


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## AR&BOW (May 24, 2009)

rustyfence said:


> Dis-assemble the bow, and strip the camo first. There are chemical strippers that will work. Then your best bet would be to powdercoat it.
> 
> If you can not powdercoat it your self, send it to someone. The will strip it and coat it for a reasonable price.
> 
> I do powdercoating, Jim Posten also does powdercoating. Give one of us a shout if you want to have it done.


What he said. Unless you paint it with good paint ( the stuff that runs about $250/gallon) it will not be durable at all and will easily scratch off.


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## 174in (Jul 7, 2009)

I second the powdercoating or send it in and have it dipped to what ever color or pattern you would like.You can even have it dipped to make it look like the riser is wood or carbon even dimondplate aluminum.


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## sweet old bill (Apr 21, 2003)

I have done several bows over the years, some are still in use and have been passed down the line and still look good.

If you want a black rizer I would take off the rest and grip.

then clean the riser with denatured alohol to make sure that you do not have any oil on the riser. 

I then would just use from Walmart the flat black and let it dry for two days. then give it another coat if required.

I would then paint with top of the line brand in gloss black.

Bill


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## 174in (Jul 7, 2009)

here is what water magic images does over at bowfishing country


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## 174in (Jul 7, 2009)

this is wahat water magic imaging does at bowfishing country


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## 174in (Jul 7, 2009)

this wold look tits on a PSE money maker


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## r.spencer (Jun 20, 2009)

Gunkote from brownells is very durable. I have not done a riser but have done a 1911 that gets carried alot. Shows minmal wear after 1000's of rounds through it.These are a bake on finish. Not as tough as powder coating but a do it yourself finish.


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## Tiggie_00 (Jul 18, 2009)

Thankyou everyone for your advice. Spraying the textured bed liner sounds interesting. I wouldnt think I would need to strip the riser of the camo pattern. I washed the riser with degreasing dish soap and rubbed it down with alcohol and I think that will work.


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## Tiggie_00 (Jul 18, 2009)

Here is the final result.. Its a Super Laquer Flat Black spray can.. This stuff is durable. Drys fast too.. Way cheaper than powder coating. This stuff is great.. Looks almost factory.. I just fine misted the paint on.. about 20 coats with 1/2 a can.


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## GatewayShepherd (Mar 21, 2004)

*Missing the boat!*

I think several of you are missing the boat.

Paint your risers with Duracoat from Lauer Custom Weaponary. It is self lubricating, hard as hell but has a bit of flexibility to it. Not sure how it would work on limbs as they flex a bunch but risers would be no problem. They have almost unlimited paint colors as you are able to mix them to get a specific color.

PM me if your interested. I can provide photos of previous work on firearms.


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## FallingCrows (Sep 24, 2007)

GatewayShepherd said:


> I think several of you are missing the boat.
> 
> Paint your risers with Duracoat from Lauer Custom Weaponary. It is self lubricating, hard as hell but has a bit of flexibility to it. Not sure how it would work on limbs as they flex a bunch but risers would be no problem. They have almost unlimited paint colors as you are able to mix them to get a specific color.



Ditto on the Durocoat

To take care of the limbs, Duracoat sells a Flex Agent that you add to your paint.


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## bubbahunts (Feb 26, 2003)

*Duracoat*

Should have gone with the Duracoat, Matt black


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## deerlab (Jul 8, 2013)

We just posted a step-by-step guide to painting a Mathew's NOCAM HTR bow. Here's the finished bow.


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## Longlost (Jan 26, 2015)

Get it Type 3 hardcoat anodised. It a very thick anodise that has a more solid look than the candy look of Type 1 anodise. massive choice of colors and is 60 Rockwell hard! Theres companies all around who do it.


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## nswarcher (Apr 16, 2015)

A bit late but i just saw the thread, having done alot ofindustrial spraying and a few cars heres a couple of thing.
always strip what you are painting of previous coatings, proper spray paints a chockers with nasty chemicals which only realy work with themselves.
to prep sand to 600 or 800 grit sandpaper and prime, your primer colour will change the final colour, white is excellent for yellows and other bright colours, standard grey is fine for dark colours.
Primers are full of fillers and are pourous so plan to add colour as soon as possible and on a dry day. Over time the primer will absorb moisture from the air and you will end up with fish eyes in your paint.

wet sand primer again to 800 grit for that show car shine.

now colour, keep away from spray cans, they are evil and leave a weak paint coating, i use 601 super enamel from hichem paints and also lacnam enamels, tbese paints are seriously tough and lay from a gun well. There are a ton of colours and for so a bow that is used for everything or a hunting bow i would use enamel only. To paint properly you will also need to add hardener to it at a ratio of 10% or what the manufacturer specs, hardner not only gives a tougher coating but dries a bit quicker, you must use enamel thinners for spraying aswell, the mix will depend on what size needle you spray with.

i spray a hvlp gun with a .4 needle at 22psi, though a .2 would be much better for a smoother finish.
read the recoat times for paint and dont miss them, too early and the paint will run, too late and the thinners wont dissolve the layer underneath to allow the paint to bond together. Show cars will spray upwards of 12 coats but with enamel 4 is adequte and will give a thick coating. 

Hot days in a shed is best or set up somewhere to hang the parts in the sun once the final coat has tacked off, from memory the ideal baking temp was about 60 degrees celcius, in the sun i got 45 on car parts which is still enough.
paint is not dry when it feels dry, even baked you are looking at about 5 days for enamel to 100% cure. After that, car polish if you are happy with the finish. To get a glass smooth finish, wet sand from 600 to 1500, even 2000 grit, run over with a scratch and swirl remover and finally polish.

hope this helps guys, post up if you want more info and ill reply, coating a riser this way will leave about as stong of a finish possible,


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