# Tree Ladder



## Skunkworkx (Apr 2, 2011)

Great job


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## Jovush (Sep 28, 2006)

More details!!! Material list, weights, dimensions. Look great. Do they work as great as they look?


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## embalmer883 (Jul 21, 2008)

those are pretty cool. More details for sure, how are you attaching em to the tree?


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## NJlungbuster (Sep 14, 2006)

I don't weld for crap. Any thoughts to making sets for other people that are willing to pay for them?


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## Jovush (Sep 28, 2006)

your first post? We expect great things from you with this as your first


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## VA2 (Mar 26, 2007)

They look great! Why did you tie a rope to each step?


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## mroczka87 (Sep 6, 2011)

Yes this is my first post but hopefully more to come. 

1. V-Shape Hang All - $1.00 (on sale)
2. Camo Poly Rope 75' - $3.00
3. 10' section of 3/4" Conduit - about $3.00


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## mroczka87 (Sep 6, 2011)

How To:
1. Cut rope to 7.5' sections and singe ends
2. Cut conduit to 8" sections and remove galvenize with a wire wheel ona bench grinder
3. Tack weld conduit between bends on V-Shape hang all
4. Cut off rounded end of hang all about 3/8" below lowest mounting hole. (remember you will be looking at it upside down from the correct way to mount it)
5. Bend in the legs to make the two lowest holes line up. This should be about in the middle of the conduit if you compare.
6. With a saw cut down the middle of the hole to make a sharp v-shape
7. Tack weld the bottom of your "V" together
8. Finish weld the three welds
9. Bend top legs to make a distance of about 9' from the V-point to each leg; or a total angle of 60 degrees
10. Attach rope using a cinch knot that tightens on itself. ( I will look for the exact style knot that I use)

Each step weighs less than a pound. I use 7 steps to climb the same distance as my 20' sticks.
I have not had the steps slip or anything. They are much lighter to carry into the woods. Just need to come up with at better way of transport that wrapping with the ropes and strapping to my pack.


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## embalmer883 (Jul 21, 2008)

So you used V-shape hang alls like this http://www.harborfreight.com/v-shape-hang-all-38442.html

Never realized those things were rated to 200lbs!


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## mroczka87 (Sep 6, 2011)

Thats the exact one that I used. With the right bends and that extra piece of metal I have no doubts in them.


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## embalmer883 (Jul 21, 2008)

you could come close to not having to weld at all with some stategic placed bolts


I went to HF yesterday but I see another coming up


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## pacnate (Sep 23, 2009)

If you figure out how to make em without welding, let us know. I'm very interested, but can't weld worth a toot! lol

Shouldn't be hard at all either.


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## ILBowHuntFreak (Mar 12, 2008)

If you drilled a hole through the hang all in the position you want the rung. You can set the conduit in between the hangall and then use a 10 inch lag bolt to sammich the couduit between the hang all and plus it will add rigidity to it.


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## JezterVA (Jan 26, 2009)

mroczka87 said:


> 10. Attach rope using a cinch knot that tightens on itself. ( I will look for the exact style knot that I use)


Interested in the knot you're using...


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## Jovush (Sep 28, 2006)

what is the specs on the poly rope? Any stretch?


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## pacnate (Sep 23, 2009)

ILBowHuntFreak said:


> If you drilled a hole through the hang all in the position you want the rung. You can set the conduit in between the hangall and then use a 10 inch lag bolt to sammich the couduit between the hang all and plus it will add rigidity to it.


Gotcha. Thanks. I'm gonna order me some of these. Anyone know if there is any other store that may sell these? No HF anywhere around here.


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

That is awesome work. I may have to give it a shot.


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## Rhody Hunter (Jul 14, 2008)

Some where here i saw the originals and it showed the way it ties on . very strong. I liked the way it cams over to tighten the rope .
very tight . there is a you tube video of the guy from Maine demonstrating them.
maybe sombody has the link
if i remember right the guys last name is stepp


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## pchunterpa (Sep 28, 2007)

the original the was called the Stepp Ladder
wish so much they still made them or have someone make them


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## Rhody Hunter (Jul 14, 2008)

here is the link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ita-L2l4P4

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=1155016&d=1315091119


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## cannonman (Nov 29, 2008)

Great Job!
Did you use the same cinch knot on the permanent side of the rope or is that end tied on differently? 
Is the rope you used a special climbing rope? 
Have you seen the video of the carry system, and have you worked on that part yet?
I really like the idea behind this and hope to make a set soon, Thanks.


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## dandbuck (Jan 11, 2007)

Funny, I've been playing with the same idea. I am making them out of 1/4" aluminum pipe and using my lone wolf straps that I do not use any longer since switching to constrictor ropes. I only wanted some for a Tree Saddle platform. They ar a bit bulky, but not any worse than a platform I made with a ratchet strap and now I do not have that noise. 48' of the pipe weighs only 7 pounds and can make 14 steps total. I may get some rope to try it that way also.


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## mroczka87 (Sep 6, 2011)

I use the same knot on both sides. It hasn't given me any reason to doubt and I was having a hard time finding a know that held tight with this rope.


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## fromthedepths (Aug 1, 2006)

very nice


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## NJlungbuster (Sep 14, 2006)

Keep up the good work on these and post more pics if anyone figures out a way without welding.


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## NJlungbuster (Sep 14, 2006)

Anyone figure out one without welding??


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## bowhunter-84 (Aug 6, 2010)

looks good!


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## swthbkxt2322 (Apr 15, 2011)

Looks good I am going to give them a try, keep up the good work.


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## matlocc (Sep 29, 2009)

could you bend conduit something like this and then zip tie it together where they cross at the step? (I am not very good at drawing.) Wish i had conduit and a bender to try it though.


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## Jovush (Sep 28, 2006)

No need to zip tie, the retaining rope would attach around both and the cinch knot would capture the other side. Nice idea for a now welding design. Apparently the cam-over function is so strong that it has the ability to deform the metal. Be safe.


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## Maui Rhino (Mar 13, 2010)

I have a hand bender for conduit. I think it would be hard to make a bend much past 90deg. Even the 90deg bend has something like a 2" or 2.5" radius, so you wouldn't have a sharp point at the V. I was thinking that you could cut them at a 45 where they come together and secure them with a bolt that when through both pipes a couple inches up from the point.


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## HCON3 (Feb 11, 2008)

If you want the original then watch the you tube demo and order individual parts from jstepp by E Mail!! I just ordered and it is on the way now. He still has a limited amount of stock on hand but not making more so its up to you.


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## Skunkworkx (Apr 2, 2011)

How to make w/o welding ???


Smash the bottom of the V , drill a hole, and through bolt.

Now where the cross piece goes, drill holes through both sides, stick a piece of all-thread through it, and add nuts/washers.

Seems like it would work (looks good on paper)....worth a try ???


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## JezterVA (Jan 26, 2009)

Can you tell me the length of the two outside pieces?
I believe that you said the center piece or "rung" was 8", correct?
And the bend on the outer pieces is 60 degrees?

I've been thinking over a non-weld design for a couple days now on this and think I may have something. Just need a couple measurements and a trip to Lowes.


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## pacnate (Sep 23, 2009)

Working on some without welding......

Got a question though. On the bottom where the OP has welded a sharp point.....Do you guys think it would be ok to leave the U in there or cut that U out and bring the two ends together some?

I'm looking at this hook right here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/v-shape...all-38442.html


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## NJlungbuster (Sep 14, 2006)

I'm gonna have to lean towards the sharp point. It's one more edge that can bite into the tree.


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## pacnate (Sep 23, 2009)

My thoughts too. Should work if I cut out the U on the bottom and take both loose ends and bolt them together right? Maybe kinda flatten both tubes to come together nicely? Or am I off??? lol


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## dandbuck (Jan 11, 2007)

You need a sharp point, but that's not to say you couldn't add a bolt that has been sharpened to a point and attached at the curve. Problem is with all the bolts and such instead of the welds. First off you are adding quite a bit of weight, then you also have the chance of them coming loose after a bit. If they get loose at all they will make a bunch of noise and start to wear the holes. I guess I am lucky to have all the welders i need here at work. Good Luck though! I'm waiting on some more aluminum pipe to make some more of these, but I have no more Lone Wolf straps so I need some rope. The video seems to show a flat rope being used, anyone know where to get that rope? THe cheaper poly rope seems like it will have too much stretch to really get it tight.


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## pacnate (Sep 23, 2009)

Would it be better to put a bolt sharpened through the curve of the U at the bottom? Or to cut the U out of it and bolt those two ends together? Just want the safest way possible.


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## Rhody Hunter (Jul 14, 2008)

How do you think shipping straps would be instead of rope ? I get these all the time when I get constructiom
Deliveries. they are rated for high strength to hold loads on the truck . They are flat and easy to get 
Or replace as Needed


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## pacnate (Sep 23, 2009)

I was wondering the same thing. I wonder how the knot would bind on itself with that stuff though???


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## Rhody Hunter (Jul 14, 2008)

I think it would work just fine.


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## ILBowHuntFreak (Mar 12, 2008)

Rhody Hunter said:


> I think it would work just fine.


You guys are worrying about the rope, why not just use a cam buckle strap similar to the lone wolf steps. You can buy them from Harbor Freight for 2 pieces for $4.00. and I'm sure you can get them cheaper somewhere else. Just how I would mount them.


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## pacnate (Sep 23, 2009)

Got a link to that one? I don't mind using it, just have some of that other strap laying around right now. It's FL. Orange, but we wear that gun hunting anyways???


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## dandbuck (Jan 11, 2007)

Wow, never really thought about flat webbing. I've got a bunch of 1" olive drab military spec webbing that's super thick, I'll have to dig that out and try it.


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## cannonman (Nov 29, 2008)

I've got a set of these under construction right now. This thin metal is tough to weld. I'm trying to overlap some of the seams rather tham butt welding them. I hope to try a couple of them tonight and see if they are going to work. If you never hear back from me again it means they didn't work.:wink:


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## pacnate (Sep 23, 2009)

LOL....Keep us posted


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## cannonman (Nov 29, 2008)

Well, I hate to say it, but they didn't work. Or I should say the steps I made didn't work. The Harbor Freight Hang-all bracket just wasn't strong enough to handle the leverage as I rolled over the step to tighten the rope. The bend in the Hang-All started to collapse. Maybe it got too hot when welding. I think a gusset would probably cure the problem. I wish I could bend conduit to that angle.
I did get them installed enough to stand on them and they were solid, but they didn't hold up to repeated tightening. You can really apply alot of leverage to the rope.
It seemed like it took alot of trial and error to get the rope the proper tightness. I think a set of climbing sticks would go up faster.
I may keep trying, I like the idea of using them for a platform with my Tree Suit.


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## Rhody Hunter (Jul 14, 2008)

how about if you didn,t care about the weight and were going to leave them up to use rerod?
It would be easier to weld . I can find pieces here and there around some of the construction sites I'm on.
DO YOU think it would be strong enough? I'm thinking it would but maybe someone that has more metal experience then 
Me could chime in


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## Pittstate23 (Dec 27, 2010)

thats legit


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## cannonman (Nov 29, 2008)

I'm sure 1/2" rebar is strong enough, and much easier to bend and weld. It's also much heavier.


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## dandbuck (Jan 11, 2007)

Rerod would be fine, 1/2" is way overkill, 3/8" is more than good. I made a couple with 1/4" steel pipe that are plenty strong, but i ended up with 1/4" aluminum pipe. Like you said, if you leave them in the woods you're ok, but I don't know if I want to trust the ropes or straps in the woods, climbing in the dark. Maybe leave them at the base of the tree and take the ropes in with you, they don't take long to set up anyway.

Still have not tried my thick military webbing, i want to sew the ends on them first. I'll get a pic of how I made them too.
Dandbuck


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## cannonman (Nov 29, 2008)

Hey Dandibuck, how are you bending pipe without collapsing the bend? I have a 1/2" conduit bender but it won't go much past 90 degrees, and the radius is to big.


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## dandbuck (Jan 11, 2007)

I made a round die with a radius cut to match the pipe OD. Then I use a hand bender to pull the pipe around it.
I will try to add a picture of my steel pipe step, same as the aluminum ones, just no pics yet. I weld the cross member a little different, so I can add the lone wolf strap or tie a rope to it. If you notice in the picture, the cross member sticks out past the sides about an inch.


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## meatmissile (Oct 26, 2009)

The hangall from Harbor Freight works perfectly. I built my first one last week and it atttaches, and cams over tight. I tried to bend it. Im 5'10" and 225lbs and can jump up and down on it. Its solid as a rock.. I bought 10 hangalls and ruined the first one just expermenting with the welding but the second was almost perfect. they will get easier now that I know what I got to do. They are tuff to weld. Slow feed and low heat with a steady movement of welding .


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## pacnate (Sep 23, 2009)

Does anybody know if Home Depot or Lowes or Marvins may carry this same style hook? We don't have a HF down here anywhere. Trying to miss the shipping.....lol. Just too cheap I guess....lol


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

i really think a piece of 3/8" or maybe 1/2" rebar could be used to make these and they would last forever.


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## meatmissile (Oct 26, 2009)

pacnate said:


> Does anybody know if Home Depot or Lowes or Marvins may carry this same style hook? We don't have a HF down here anywhere. Trying to miss the shipping.....lol. Just too cheap I guess....lol


I didnt check HMDEPOT but Lowes dosent have this kind of hangeall at the store I looked at. Also checked BigLots and they dont either. Harbor Freight is only place i found them.


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## cannonman (Nov 29, 2008)

Home Depot, Walmart, Westlake Hardware do NOT have them. Harbor Freight is the only place I found them. $1.99 each.
I'm still trying to make them work without collapsing at the bend when I cam it over. I think I need to hold onto it at the footrest instead of down by the v-point, or add a gusset.


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## pacnate (Sep 23, 2009)

Thanks guys. I'll be ordering some then. Thanks a ton!


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## pchunterpa (Sep 28, 2007)

I actually was able to get of Jim Stepp and order 12 of them. They are great.
When I first got them I was missing one, but he promptly sent me another and when I opened the box he ended sending extra one with it.
So I got thirteen of them.
Stand up guy.


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## xjarcher (May 14, 2008)

pchunterpa,
how much did you pay for a set of 12? PM me if you don't want to put the numbers up.
I've watched the video and may have to upgrade my welding skills enough to do some.


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## dandbuck (Jan 11, 2007)

Wondering also, how much for a set of 12 and did he have the case for them?
THanks


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## xjarcher (May 14, 2008)

I sent him an email, here's what I got back:
The YouTube video clips with Harry Vanderweide were done almost 14 years ago. The ladders were being sold by L.L. Bean and several other retailers. But the steps were expensive to have made and liability insurance was also very costly. After about four years I decided to quit selling the ladders because it was a lot of work for a small return.

A few months ago a local businessman approached me about doing a new video and reintroducing the ladders to the market. I gave him the old videos to work with and was surprised when he posted them on YouTube. I had expected he was going to do a new one with his phone number instead of the old business number that had been disconnected long ago. Anyway, there has been quite a response and I've received many inquiries. I have refrained from selling the steps all these years because I did not think it wise to do so without product liability insurance. I still don't. But several people have volunteered to sign a liability waiver if I would consider selling them a few steps. So I talked it over with my attorney and he drafted a waiver. I've attached a copy for your review.

For insurance purposes I'm selling the components, not complete ladders, so some assembly is required. The individual steps are $6.00 and the camo cords are an additional $1.00. Also included is the fid tool to do the splice and an instruction sheet. I'll do one splice completely and another halfway so you can see how easy it is. The tote bags are $15.00 ea. The shipping will be parcel post, my zip code to yours. If you want quicker delivery, priority mail is an option - just more expensive. Once you've decided how many steps you want, email me with your shipping address and I'll calculate a total price and email it back to you.

Print and sign the liability waiver and send it with payment to Jim Stepp, P.O. Box 118, South Casco, Maine 04077.

I do have the waiver.


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## Chaz2582 (Mar 16, 2010)

That is exactly what I got from him as well when I emailed him. I have not ordered my set yet, but I will be. I just think these were before there time when he came up with these back in the early 90's. But I can not wait to get a set, they look so easy to use and setup.


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## pchunterpa (Sep 28, 2007)

Yep, the same email I got and when I ordered them he shipped them the same day.
No complaints here. Except maybe they could be a little wider, got big feet.


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## redoaks (Oct 12, 2011)

Following this thread...


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## Mrcnwlvrn (Feb 24, 2014)

Tagged


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

I bought a set about 16 years ago and have been making my own ever since. I just finished a die to use on the harbor freight compact bender to bend up the square tubing. I love them! right now I have about 30 of them and that's all I use on my stands. those of you that are considering using rebar to make your steps be careful not all rebar is weldable. rebar is nothing more than scrap steel thrown together and turned into the rebar. I use the same thing Jim Stepp uses which is 1/2" square tubing they are much lighter that way. if you go into the diy section and look up stepp ladder steps (rebar ) I have a lot of info posted about these steps and how I make them along with pictures of mine and the ones I bought


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

BowBaker1640 said:


> I bought a set about 16 years ago and have been making my own ever since. I just finished a die to use on the harbor freight compact bender to bend up the square tubing. I love them! right now I have about 30 of them and that's all I use on my stands. those of you that are considering using rebar to make your steps be careful not all rebar is weldable. rebar is nothing more than scrap steel thrown together and turned into the rebar. I use the same thing Jim Stepp uses which is 1/2" square tubing they are much lighter that way. if you go into the diy section and look up stepp ladder steps (rebar ) I have a lot of info posted about these steps and how I make them along with pictures of mine and the ones I bought



Believe this is it here: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1617258&highlight=stepp+ladder+steps

BowBaker - that bender you got from harbor freight, are the dies that come with it good enough or the right size for making those trees steps? I ask because I see where you mention that you made a die for yours


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## auburn (Mar 2, 2009)

How much for the dies?


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## auburn (Mar 2, 2009)

Isn't that 1" sq tubeing 1/2" sure is small


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

yes the dies are good enough but I just took it a step further and made a better die. basically what I did was get a piece of solid round stock 2 3/4" in dia and cut a groove just a hair wider than 1/2" and 3/8" deep with a 5/8" hole to mount it in the bender. what that does is support the sides of the tubing while you bend it and keeps the sides flatter. Auburn - no it's not 1" it is 1/2" tubing. Remember one thing tubing is actually stronger than solid. Also if you made them out of 1" tubing they would be huge and if you make them from solid stock they'll weigh a ton when you get a dozen of them together. check out the link above and I give pretty much all the info you need to make them. The rungs are 5/16" solid stock. One more thing I've found that the tubing that works the best is the stuff you get at home depot. The other stuff I've tried doesn't bend good at all


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

thanks for the die info. If I pick that bender up I think I like the idea of the extra die you made


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

Maxtor said:


> thanks for the die info. If I pick that bender up I think I like the idea of the extra die you made


if you guys have any questions contact me and i'll help out as best as I can


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## Camp (May 30, 2010)

sweet


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

The end of the rope that is always fastened to the step, are you using just a regular knot on that or the same slip knot on both ends?


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

No the rope that is used is a hollow braid so what you do is go around the rung the open up the rope and put the tag end thru the long end and then about an 1" after you come thru the long end run the tag end down inside the hollow braid. Like a Chinese finger knot. Running the tag end thru the long end before you run it down thru the hollow braid locks it in place and ensures it won't pull out.


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## BowBaker1640 (Aug 6, 2010)

If you go to that other thread and look at the pictures that someone posted for me you should be able to see what I'm talking about


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## bwhntr7973 (Mar 8, 2011)

tagged.


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## kerrye (Sep 1, 2010)

Bowline might be an excellent knot for this project. Doesn't slip, simple and can be tied with one hand.


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## rfcolejr (Sep 4, 2013)

Those hang all's are only good for 44 lbs. To each their own h guess. I wouldn't use them without a life line to ascend an descend with.


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## brewman_4 (Oct 28, 2014)

Hi -
I bought the materials to make these 'stepps' and sonder if you MIG or TIG welded them?
Thanks,
Ken


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## buckman2591 (Feb 6, 2011)

Either weld will hold your weight as long as you clean and prep surfaces


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

rfcolejr said:


> Those hang all's are only good for 44 lbs. To each their own h guess. I wouldn't use them without a life line to ascend an descend with.


 That's true but that rating is referring too the weight and downward pressure being put on the ends as stuff is being hung on them.


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## rfcolejr (Sep 4, 2013)

I just made 12 of my own that way if they fail it's my fault. Lol


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

rfcolejr said:


> I just made 12 of my own that way if they fail it's my fault. Lol


Well those are super nice looking!


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## rfcolejr (Sep 4, 2013)

b0w_bender said:


> Well those are super nice looking!


Thanks. I love them, they take 10 sec. each to put on a tree. With a lineman belt that is! I can put up a hang on in 15 minutes now.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

I think Jim Stepp is looking for a new manufacturer to build them for him you might want to shoot him an email if you're interested.


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## Maxtor (Jan 7, 2007)

rfcolejr said:


> I just made 12 of my own that way if they fail it's my fault. Lol


 Nice work rf, can you give some dimensions of what you started with and finished dimensions? I like the idea of making them out of square tubing. Also, looking at the pic, how is the left side of the rope attached to the step?


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## rfcolejr (Sep 4, 2013)

First set I've built. Just for myself that is. Too much liability.


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## rfcolejr (Sep 4, 2013)

Maxtor said:


> Nice work rf, can you give some dimensions of what you started with and finished dimensions? I like the idea of making them out of square tubing. Also, looking at the pic, how is the left side of the rope attached to the step?


I just used a bowline knot is all. I've also used a square knot with a ball melted on the end of the pope that won't pass through itself.


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## bwhntr7973 (Mar 8, 2011)

tagged


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## Ouztse (Jul 28, 2010)

If you were to straighten out the V hanger how long would they be?


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## Ouztse (Jul 28, 2010)

Maxtor said:


> Nice work rf, can you give some dimensions of what you started with and finished dimensions? I like the idea of making them out of square tubing. Also, looking at the pic, how is the left side of the rope attached to the step?


X2 on the deminsions!!!

Awesome job!!!


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## KenByerly (Dec 26, 2013)

how did you get the final bend in the tubing? Did you heat it? use a pipe bender? I have my pieces cut and have been practicing the welds (my HF EasyMIG 100 blows through this pretty easy!) and wonder if I should do the bend (the 60 degree one) before welding..
Thanks!
Ken


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## Bowfreak (Jul 23, 2002)

I hope he does. I am kicking myself for not buying them when he was still making them. 



b0w_bender said:


> I think Jim Stepp is looking for a new manufacturer to build them for him you might want to shoot him an email if you're interested.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Bowfreak said:


> I hope he does. I am kicking myself for not buying them when he was still making them.


me too :-(


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## rfcolejr (Sep 4, 2013)

KenByerly said:


> how did you get the final bend in the tubing? Did you heat it? use a pipe bender? I have my pieces cut and have been practicing the welds (my HF EasyMIG 100 blows through this pretty easy!) and wonder if I should do the bend (the 60 degree one) before welding..
> Thanks!
> Ken


I tig welded my steps. You are right though. The mig. will blow holes in the tube.


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## hunterhewi (Jun 12, 2010)

A mig wint blow through the tube. Even if your running a 220 welder. Turn your heat down a touch and run a sequence of "spot" welds. It will look like a tig weld or like an overlapping row of dimes. Still plenty strong to hold any person and you will not blow through


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## MACHINST (Jul 14, 2005)

Mig wont blow through,flux core runs a bit hitter and may but if you take some scraps and practice weld them you will get your settings perfect and then run emall.I have welded 20 gauge sheet metal wit my mig no problem.Just practice a bit before you do the job


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## KenByerly (Dec 26, 2013)

*but the bends?*



rfcolejr said:


> I tig welded my steps. You are right though. The mig. will blow holes in the tube.


I did get one welded with the quick spot welds.

I am more interested in how you did the bending. I have a tube bender than only bends to 90 degrees, and obviously this is a tighter bend. Help?

Thanks,
Ken


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## rfcolejr (Sep 4, 2013)

I used this kind of bender here where I work. We call it an acro bender.


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