# Hinge shot process/transition



## alaz (Mar 8, 2009)

I need some advice or insight on how to improve my transition from drawing to anchoring to hold with a hinge.
I draw comfortable, anchor with my pin on the target, but when I move my thumb off of my thumb peg my pin dips below the target.
I shoot a click (UV HInge 2)
I also have a Truball Executive (which I find causes a more dramatic dip, I believe due to the location of the pivot point).

Any thoughts?

Thank you.


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## "TheBlindArcher" (Jan 27, 2015)

If merely moving your thumb off the peg is causing the dip, it's likely that in your mind the movement is associated with "about to shoot," and you are dropping the pin to see the target [I call it an execution issue, AT might call it that "tango papa" phenomenon] 

Do you have other releases you can try, maybe a thumb or resistance style, and does the same thing happen with those?


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## alaz (Mar 8, 2009)

Thank you for your reply. I do not have other releases on hand, I will have to borrow something from my shop.


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## Chipalexander (Mar 30, 2017)

Could be a variety of things causing your pin to drop when the clicker goes off. 
1. Ask yourself are you strong through the entire shot or just through the click?
2. Is you DL too long? DL is super critical with proper hinge set up. Even a 1/16" can make a difference in how the sight holds and the shot fires.
3. How soon is the clicker going off? This can impact shot timing. Personally I like the clicker to go off as soon as I settle into the peep and anchor. Then I start aiming. Everything prior to the click is just setup and reference (soft aim).
4. What method are you using to fire the release? Relax hand, rotation, straight pull back, increased ring finger pressure, stretched hand, etc? All of these can change to some degree your back pressure as you take slack out of the chain so to speak and impact POI.
5. "D" loop location and length can also impact POI. 

You may have to try a variety of different methods to find what works best for you. But before you are branded with TP or some shooting flaw try a variety of things one at a time and shoot plenty of arrows in between. Good Luck


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## Flyinhawaiian (Nov 2, 2018)

Sounds like you are aiming way too soon. Try being slightly above the gold with your pin when you reach anchor, then expand into your final alignment, and drop your pin down onto the x. Hold on the x and then execute your shot.


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## alaz (Mar 8, 2009)

Chipalexander said:


> Could be a variety of things causing your pin to drop when the clicker goes off.
> 1. Ask yourself are you strong through the entire shot or just through the click?
> 2. Is you DL too long? DL is super critical with proper hinge set up. Even a 1/16" can make a difference in how the sight holds and the shot fires.
> 3. How soon is the clicker going off? This can impact shot timing. Personally I like the clicker to go off as soon as I settle into the peep and anchor. Then I start aiming. Everything prior to the click is just setup and reference (soft aim).
> ...


I think I need my click to go off sooner, I will experiment with a slightly shorter loop next. 
As to how I execute the shot, that is good to reflect on...
I squeeze my shoulder blades at full draw, move my thumb off the release (then I get my dip)
I try to aim high, move my thumb, settle on my spot

Either way, I just continue to push my front arm/shoulder to the spot, I do not think about my release side at all. I just wait until the shot breaks.
I do find the location of the hinge relative to my middle finger (the closer the better) impacts how much dip I experience.


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## alaz (Mar 8, 2009)

Flyinhawaiian said:


> Sounds like you are aiming way too soon. Try being slightly above the gold with your pin when you reach anchor, then expand into your final alignment, and drop your pin down onto the x. Hold on the x and then execute your shot.



I find this to be helpful. I am thinking of having my click sooner, leaving my "fire" setting the same.


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## alaz (Mar 8, 2009)

So I notice I move my thumb too quickly off the thumb peg. My release is quite cold; I am thinking of making it hotter and/or not using the click. When I move more deliberately, much less movement.


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## Rick2200 (Jan 23, 2021)

alaz said:


> Thank you for your reply. I do not have other releases on hand, I will have to borrow something from my shop.


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## Rick2200 (Jan 23, 2021)

try 'bows only outdoors" tutorial.


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## alaz (Mar 8, 2009)

Rick2200 said:


> try 'bows only outdoors" tutorial.


Thank you for sharing this.
Good stuff


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## Primeshooter67 (Mar 24, 2009)

alaz said:


> I need some advice or insight on how to improve my transition from drawing to anchoring to hold with a hinge.
> I draw comfortable, anchor with my pin on the target, but when I move my thumb off of my thumb peg my pin dips below the target.
> I shoot a click (UV HInge 2)
> I also have a Truball Executive (which I find causes a more dramatic dip, I believe due to the location of the pivot point).
> ...


It’s a timing issue from click to execution lately I have shot better groups without removing my thumb and relaxing my hand at click at top of x and then aim and execute


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## alaz (Mar 8, 2009)

I also had been using a scope with crosshairs and a pin. My focus shifted to the scope because it was so cluttered. I went down to a small pin, and now can focus on the spot.


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## Primeshooter67 (Mar 24, 2009)

alaz said:


> I also had been using a scope with crosshairs and a pin. My focus shifted to the scope because it was so cluttered. I went down to a small pin, and now can focus on the spot.


Do you use a clarifier and or a scope lens ? I use a B clarifier and a 4x lens try a lens so much better


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## alaz (Mar 8, 2009)

I use a 4 lens, no clarifer.
I think a clarifier would help.


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## alaz (Mar 8, 2009)

Got the clarifier.
Definitely helped. Blurred my pin, cleared my target- much more comfortable!
I currently am using an up pin, with a 4x lens (lens in front of pin on a UV3 scope).
I am thinking of trying drilled center lens. Any preferences or benefits?


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

alaz said:


> Got the clarifier.
> Definitely helped. Blurred my pin, cleared my target- much more comfortable!
> I currently am using an up pin, with a 4x lens (lens in front of pin on a UV3 scope).
> I am thinking of trying drilled center lens. Any preferences or benefits?


If the vision change is what’s making a difference it’s target panic. Now you’re not seeing the pin movement nearly as much bc it’s blurry and it’s relaxing your brain to execute. I’m betting 100 bucks if you never take your thumb off that bar and draw back aim at the target knowing your not going to fire an arrow and knowing your going to let down you can aim at the middle until the end of time.


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## alaz (Mar 8, 2009)

Yep
Not taking that bet
So what do you suggest
Blank bale?


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

alaz said:


> Yep
> Not taking that bet
> So what do you suggest
> Blank bale?


You can do some of that as well as some of those let down drills I mentioned. Draw aim 20 times float for awhile then shot an arrow. Draw aim 20 times then fire an arrow. Any change will help it for just a little bit. Having 2 releases set to different speeds will help. One with no click one with a click etc.. doesn’t matter what release you go to if you use only that one you’ll know exactly when it will fire. There’s no such thing as a surprise shot unless its by accident or a new release. Everybody on the podium knows exactly when the release is going off. It’s muscle memory.


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