# ladder stand modifications



## Tunaboy (Oct 3, 2004)

Please tell me that you use a safety rope and a full body harness. Be CAREFUL modifications of stands is dangerous. Make sure you get home to your wife and kids.


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## deerjitsu (Apr 3, 2013)

That'll do nicely. Just in time for setting them out for the season.


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## Skunkworkx (Apr 2, 2011)

Glad to see that you bolt and weld....I couldn't trust them either :mg: But as you said, if you trust them.

Anywho, not bad ideas :wink:


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## DaneHunter (Jul 6, 2013)

What kind of welder are you using?


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## wipy (Oct 11, 2011)

just a 120 volt gas less flux core wire welder. alot needs to go wrong for the the stand to break. shear off 4 bolts and 30 inches of welds...


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## DaneHunter (Jul 6, 2013)

wipy said:


> just a 120 volt gas less flux core wire welder. alot needs to go wrong for the the stand to break. shear off 4 bolts and 30 inches of welds...


There was another thread about welders that, not bashing you by any means, but this kind of proves my point about gas-less welders. I am glad you are bolting it and welding it, I dont think you will have any structural issues at all.


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## DrewJF8 (May 7, 2010)

marked


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## bowhunter19 (May 9, 2014)

wipy said:


> i have a bunch of cheap ladder stands that were on sale years ago for $30. so i started modifying them so the have flip up seats and extended foot rests. i buy 10' section of 3/4 tubing, 2' 3/4 angle, and 2' 3/4 flat stock, and 1/4" bolts nuts and washers.
> 
> first i cut the seat part and drill a 1/4 hole and put a bolt through with washers so the seat pivots on them.
> 
> ...


do u by any chance no what kind of ladder stands these are, im looking for some cheap ones my self


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## wipy (Oct 11, 2011)

i think they were riveredges from like 5 years ago


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## getn'lucky (Apr 17, 2010)

How bout a piece from the back of the footrest up to the seat area? 
Wish I had that ability though


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## BHstaffshooter (Aug 9, 2013)

Do those welds hold?


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

Just be careful, getting a weld too hot will cause the surrounding tubing area to get brittle and could rip out easier with a severe side load. Bolting will help strengthen the add-on. I modify a bunch of stands, both for comfort and added height. If I add to the ladders I usually add another tree prop/support to eliminate sag. If you are an experienced welder I say have at it, if not be very careful as penetration is your friend. I can not count the amount of times folks brought nice looking welds into our shop that only penetrated one side of the joint and broke off.


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## BHstaffshooter (Aug 9, 2013)

RatherBArchery said:


> Just be careful, getting a weld too hot will cause the surrounding tubing area to get brittle and could rip out easier with a severe side load. Bolting will help strengthen the add-on. I modify a bunch of stands, both for comfort and added height. If I add to the ladders I usually add another tree prop/support to eliminate sag. If you are an experienced welder I say have at it, if not be very careful as penetration is your friend. I can not count the amount of times folks brought nice looking welds into our shop that only penetrated one side of the joint and broke off.


I agree, it looks like he kept his arc as high as the empire state, I'm surprised he got any splatter to even stick, probly took him quite a few beads to "make do" He could've stayed a little cold on amperes or volts (whichever used) and slow down with some patterning. AND OF COURSE! With a way shorter arc


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## handirifle (Jun 9, 2005)

wipy

If by "jamming' when referring to your wire welder, do you mean inside the machine, or jamming itself into the work piece? If inside the machine then some adjustments to the feed rolls need to be made. If it jams into the work piece, you need to reduce your wire speed until that stops. It will only jam into the work, if it's going faster than it's melting into the bead. Slow down!

I read the comments before and I have to agree with these guys that I would NOT trust those welds with MY life. There is almost ZERO penetration into the metal on welds like that.

Practice on some scrap (same thickness) until you get welds that are actually burning through the metal too much, then back off the heat setting until it ALMOST burns through. Then you are getting complete penetration and a solid weld.

On my little 110V MIG (90 AMP) my wire setting is only at about 2.5 (out of 10) on it's highest setting, and that is with Lincoln .035" flux core wire.

Good design ideas but go back over those welds with a grinder and redo them, BEFORE you end up in the hospital.


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