# Form analysis



## Daduate (May 13, 2021)

@nuts&bolts I recently switched to hinge and could use some help I had to set my camera on burst and 10second delay my nose isn’t normally so pushed against string was scrambling to get set into my form in 10s lol 
Lemme know what u have to say










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## Daduate (May 13, 2021)

@nuts&bolts


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## Flyinhawaiian (Nov 2, 2018)

For an N & B critique, you should check his other critique replies for his photography criteria. (He really should have his own forum.🤣) He usually requests a shot be taken from a dead on side view, not at an angle. He also usually suggests using a ladder straight to the side of you to help get your phone at the correct height necessary if needed. I’m no N & B, but as an archery coach, I can immediately notice your rear knee is bent which is probably thrusting your hips forward, draw hand pinky is held upward in a claw rather than relaxed downward towards your palm, and your bow hand should have nothing past your life line touching the grip which indicates your hand is too vertical.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Daduate said:


> @nuts&bolts I recently switched to hinge and could use some help I had to set my camera on burst and 10second delay my nose isn’t normally so pushed against string was scrambling to get set into my form in 10s lol
> Lemme know what u have to say
> 
> 
> ...


So, need the photographer to stand with the camera 90 degrees to the wall behind you.

Need THIS camera angle.



Your photographer has the BAD camera angle on the right.
Your photographer needs the GOOD camera angle in the center, SQUARE to the wall behind you.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Daduate said:


> @nuts&bolts I recently switched to hinge and could use some help I had to set my camera on burst and 10second delay my nose isn’t normally so pushed against string was scrambling to get set into my form in 10s lol
> Lemme know what u have to say
> 
> 
> ...


So, use a ladder and tape your camera phone to the ladder at ARROW height.
Your photographer has the camera lens BELOW arrow height.

Slide the ladder square to the wall behind you for the GOOD camera angle.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Daduate said:


> @nuts&bolts I recently switched to hinge and could use some help I had to set my camera on burst and 10second delay my nose isn’t normally so pushed against string was scrambling to get set into my form in 10s lol
> Lemme know what u have to say
> 
> 
> ...


So you have 90% of your weight on the LEFT ankle. Your belly button is nearly above the inside edge of your LEFT ankle. Shift belly button BACK towards the CENTER of both ankles, and put EQUAL weight on both ankles
for the NEXT photo.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Daduate said:


> @nuts&bolts I recently switched to hinge and could use some help I had to set my camera on burst and 10second delay my nose isn’t normally so pushed against string was scrambling to get set into my form in 10s lol
> Lemme know what u have to say
> 
> 
> ...


Find some paracord and tie a loop, to create a DIY wrist sling. NO wrist sling, you MUST grab the bow after every shot to prevent bow from CRASHING to the ground. NO bow sling, and with you GRABBING the bow after EVERY shot, the thumb muscle INSTANTANEOUSLY becomes a speed bump and the riser will WOBBLE sideways EVERY time. EVERY time you instantaneously grab the bow, after the arrow releases, the thumb muscle becomes STIFF,
cuz the finger SLAM around the bow, to prevent bow from crashing to the floor.

So, use a wrist sling for next photo.

PS. bow hand fingers are NO good.

More like this.





WHY?
Cuz it works better for most humans on this planet.

How can u tell?
Cuz your thumb muscle (thenar emminence) is sticking out WAY WAY too far past the right edge of the riser.

Fingers curled IN FRONT of riser is no good either. Curl pinky finger, curl 4th finger, curl middle finger into the palm of your hand, and those three CURLED fingers become a spacer to FORCE more knuckles rotation, at LEAST 45 degrees.

Like this.



That's just a STYLE thing.
Nope.

It's a knuckles ROTATION thing, designed to get LESS thumb muscle oozing past the right edge of the riser.
The knuckles ROTATION thing is PART of the process to get you shooting closer to THIS...at 20 yards.



So this is a fella I've been helping via pm. He had been trying for 2 YEARS to get back to where his OLD accuracy was. So, changed two things. Then, he did this.

Fired fletched at 20 yards first.
THEN, he fired a bareshaft second, and he BUSTED the nock on the fletched at 20 yards.


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## Daduate (May 13, 2021)

Ok I normally don’t grab the bow like that but I really was racing to set the phone down run to position draw and aim within 10seconds I didn’t have anyone take the picture I didn’t know the picture angles and everything so I’ll do what you guys said and have another tomorrow this time with someone taking the picture lol 


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## Daduate (May 13, 2021)

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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Daduate said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


1) draw is too long. U is tilting your head, right eyeball low to see thru the peep...so drop the draw

2) u are double jointed in the elbow, but the top of thumb is BELOW shoulder height, so you have to dip bow hand DOWN to make ur arm long enough to keep the arrow level. 

3) right elbow is LOWer than wrist, cuz the draw is just plain TOO LONG


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

1) drop draw length 2-inches shorter. Yes, 2-inches.

2) lean forwards










3) when you drop the draw length SHORTER, lean forwards and LIFT the arm/bow hand HIGHER, thumb swings UP 1.5-inches HIGHER

4) lean forwards so left armpit swings FORWARDS of left ankle, about 2-3 inches FORWARDS. Leaning FORWARDS, and swinging bow hand UP will fit the 2-inch shorter draw length better

5) with 2-inch shorter draw length, u gonna complain the string don't touch ur nose, and gotta DIP your chin down something fierce. Well, you move the peep DOWN the string, so the nock lands HIGHER, so the nock lands at corner of mouth.

6) u might say but u are all SCRUNCH up now. So, see the shadow outline on the original pic on the right?
You NEED to swing elbow UP, right elbow UP and when you swing your right elbow HIGHER than right wrist,
the right wrist/right hand swings FORWARDS closer to the riser.

2-inches shorter.

New photo.


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## Daduate (May 13, 2021)

Much appreciated 


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Daduate said:


> Much appreciated
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Go in stages. Try 1/2-inch shorter, lean forwards a little. Lift the bow hand up a little.
Shoot groups. Groups should be tighter. Do not tilt head sideways right. Keep head vertical.
If you cannot see thru the peep with head vertical and draw 1/2-inch shorter..

Goto 1 full inch shorter and see if you can see thru the peep now, with zero sideways head tilt.
Lift right elbow up HIGHER than wrist.
Lean forwards. Lift bow hand higher trying to get top of thumb at same height as shoulders with LEVEL arrow.

Shoot groups with 1-inch shorter draw. Groups should be tighter.

Now goto 1.5-inches shorter. Head still vertical, zero sideways tilt.
Lift right elbow even HIGHER.
Lift bow hand HIGHER, trying to get top of thumb all the way up to same height as level shoulders with LEVEL arrow.
Shoot groups. Groups should be even tighter than before.

Then, try 2-inches shorter on draw.

TIGHTEST groups means you have found your draw length.





Cardboard sheet on a 10 yd target.
Use roll of duct tape and draw a heavy sharpie pen circle. Add cross hair if you like.

Use 20 yd sight pin, for shooting the 10 yd target.
Fire the bareshaft arrow first. Pull it out. Label the hole as "bareshaft".
Then, fire the fletched arrow.

Want the two holes no more than 1/16th inch apart.
With your current draw length, I don't think you can pass this test for draw length.

With draw half inch shorter, your two holes will get closer, but I don't think you can pass this test for draw length.
With draw 1-inch shorter, your results should be better, but I don't think you can pass this test for draw length.
When draw is TOO LONG, when you tilt head sideways, when bow arm is MORE downhill than arrow
the bareshaft hole will be missing WAY right of the fletched hole.

With draw 1.5-inches shorter, you might be in the ball park.
With draw 2-inches shorter, you might be in the ball park.

Try.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

So, what happens if the draw is 1/4-inch TOO SHORT?
Well at 20 yards, this happens.



By working the cables, to shrink ATA to grow my brace height 1/4-inch longer,
this makes the draw length also 1/4-inch longer.



By growing the draw length 1/4-inch longer, the bareshaft went from missing 7-inches left of the bullseye, to hitting left edge of the 10-ring... shooting 20 yards.

With 1/4-inch LONGER draw length, this happens at 20 yards.



Group size will shrink or group size will grow, just on draw length.


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## Sniket (Aug 28, 2021)

There was a time after being told that form is important that I let myself slip. Just once. I certainly learned my lesson afterward. That first time the string grazes your arm as it returns to its resting position...ouch


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Sniket said:


> There was a time after being told that form is important that I let myself slip. Just once. I certainly learned my lesson afterward. That first time the string grazes your arm as it returns to its resting position...ouch


Use an arm guard.


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## BigD21 (4 mo ago)

You don't need an arm guard if you are setup correctly.


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