# My $20.00 Bow Press



## Race59

*A few more photos*

A few more photos.


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## new to this

Very nice. I like how portable it is.


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## AfterLife

portable? have a hard time carrying that log around to bolt it too

   :smile: :smile: :smile:



seriously, that is nice idea, how hard was it to drill and tap back into the clamps?
are they cast parts?


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## gbear

*DUDE!! that's using the noggin'*

:mg: what about the cranking force or ease of cranking? Is that good enough quality that the screw doesnt' bind cranking on a 60#er?


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## Race59

AfterLife said:


> portable? have a hard time carrying that log around to bolt it too
> 
> :smile: :smile: :smile:
> 
> 
> 
> seriously, that is nice idea, how hard was it to drill and tap back into the clamps?
> are they cast parts?


Yes, they're cast iron parts. Drilling and tapping cast iron is pretty easy. The hard part is lining up all the damn holes!!!


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## Race59

gbear said:


> :mg: what about the cranking force or ease of cranking? Is that good enough quality that the screw doesnt' bind cranking on a 60#er?


I think people get a little too concerned about how much pressure is required to press a bow.

This device has absolutely no problem pressing any of my bows it 70 plus pounds. I'm sure it would have enough power to "crush" any bow made.

The biggest shortcoming I see with using this pipe clamp setup is that I don't believe it has enough travel to change limbs, but that's not something one does every day anyhow.


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## jtb1967

The more I look at it, the better I like it. I don't need to change limbs on a bow, but your press would do the work or string/cable changes or work. Although I'm sure some will be yelling for adjustable fingers!


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## capt ray

Now that is pretty dang slick.


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## Mtn. Runner

so far one of my favorites on at. If you really wanted to change limbs you could get a bigger screw and make it work but like you said not something you do everyday. With all the money you save on this press you could take it to the shop and get new limbs put on and still save $500. I am going to do this


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## MS Sportsman

Very professional looking job. Nice work and good idea.


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## Rhody Hunter

That is wierd i was having a similiar idea and here you went and did it and i like your method of putting it togetherand material . Now i have no choice but to make one now that i see it and it works well. Kudos , it looks awsome


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## Hoyt Thompson

I abandoned this idea due to the fact I could not find any clamps woth feel on them like pictured, at least not locally. 

This is slick for doing string changes and tuning, limb and cam swaps might require a different aproach but definately worth what you got in it.

Thumbs up and :darkbeer:


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## Buckem

Where'd you purchase the vice? And did you put a slight bend on the fingers? Looks great,already saved the pics for reference!


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## TMKBRLLC

Good job. I have been wanting to build one and I think this will do just fine. Thanks for posting the pics for us.


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## Race59

Buckem said:


> Where'd you purchase the vice? And did you put a slight bend on the fingers? Looks great,already saved the pics for reference!


The pipe clamp came from Harbor Freight. I attached the image and item number from their online catalog with my initial post. 

Here's a link to the page:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94053


Yes, I did put a slight bend in the fingers. One change I would consider if I were going to make any more of them would be to use 3/8 maternal instead of quarter inch. When I used a crescent wrench to put a slight bend in the fingers thay yielded a little easier than I thought they should, but they seem to work fine as is. I also believe I could've made the fingers a little shorter.


I deliberately attached a lot of photos to make it easier for someone to do this themselves. After all, a picture is worth 1000 words!!! LOL


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## elecshoc

Thanks for the info and pics. Great job.

I've found something to do now. :teeth:


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## Buckem

Thanks for the link. All I had was the pic above, no info. Thanks also for the tip on the arms.


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## JWT

*Bravo!!!!*

Nice simple design, great pics and info!! :rock::wav::rock::cheers: This one is getting some stars:shade:


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## nycredneck

Great idea, great execution, great workmanship, great price, whats not to like. Thank You for sharing. :thumbs_up:thumbs_up:thumbs_up


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## TH30060X

so simple, but effective. I FREAKING LOVE IT


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## Archeroni

What % of the time that a bow is pressed are the limbs fully relaxed? Less than 5% I'm guessing. This press looks like it would work fine for average Joe 95%+ of the time.

I have my own press for work on my own bows and occassionally for friends. I have changed limbs exactly 1 time on my son's bow (changed poundage) over the past 2 years.

I like having the ability to do so if I ever needed it BUT, that is a GREAT idea. Well worth the $. Thanks for sharing this.


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## Archeroni

The only improvement I see beside thicker steel fingers is I think I would drill holes every 1/2" to 1" for a pin to "backup" the sliding end part of the clamp.

I have some pipe clamps similar to what you have and have had them slide backwards when I was clamping. I would want a pin to act as a stop to ensure no movement.

Otherwise, great idea.


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## Archeroni

I think I would also devise some way to keep the sliding end from rotating around the pipe. I expect this is a very small concern with it under pressure, but I'd just feel better about it. Maybe put a hole for the aforementioned pin to slide though the pipe and the sliding clamp end.


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## Archeroni

Mtn. Runner said:


> so far one of my favorites on at. If you really wanted to change limbs you could get a bigger screw and make it work but like you said not something you do everyday. With all the money you save on this press you could take it to the shop and get new limbs put on and still save $500. I am going to do this


Looking at this closely I think you are right. ACME threaded rod available at Fastenal or McMaster-Carr. Looks easy to modify in that way.

I know some bows REALLY extend out when fully relaxed so I bet you'd need at least a 24" screw to accommodate just about everything but it could be done. Heck, you could make it so you used the "shorty" screw most of the time then on the occassion you needed to take the bow down change the screw out.


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## Archeroni

One more thought and then I'll shut up.

Wonder how long before we can buy "pipe press finger" reproductions here on AT from about 6 different guys?????


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## Archeroni

I lied. This is it, I swear.

I expect tomorrow at this time Apple, Sure-Loc and Last Chance are gonna be sweating with worry about a severe drop in sales......

I love this idea.


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## Mtn. Runner

Wouldnt be to hard to turn into a draw board either i am going to try it this weekend.


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## Archeroni

OK. I just can't help myself. I'm all giddy.

Drill the holes like I mentioned and call it the "Posten Press".........


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## Race59

Archeroni said:


> The only improvement I see beside thicker steel fingers is I think I would drill holes every 1/2" to 1" for a pin to "backup" the sliding end part of the clamp.
> 
> I have some pipe clamps similar to what you have and have had them slide backwards when I was clamping. I would want a pin to act as a stop to ensure no movement.
> 
> Otherwise, great idea.


If one was overly concerned about the sliding end slipping or rotating under load it wouldn't be too difficult to drill and tap and place some set screws in the body of the sliding clamp, probably two opposite each other. You could perhaps even place a split piece of 1 inch pipe inside the back clamp to keep the set screws from marring the 3/4" pipe itself.

I'm not really concerned about the clamps sliding or rotating. For cheap Chinese units they seem to be fairly substantial and I've had the opportunity to play with them quite a bit.

I used 1/4" plate because that's what I had handy. It seems to work fine, but I think 3/8 might be better.

I'm definitely open to new ideas and constructive criticism, if anybody has any ideas to improve this design feel free to comment. My objective was to come up with a simple, affordable, and effective bow press for the masses!!! LOL


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## gashogford

Archeroni said:


> The only improvement I see beside thicker steel fingers is I think I would drill holes every 1/2" to 1" for a pin to "backup" the sliding end part of the clamp.
> 
> I have some pipe clamps similar to what you have and have had them slide backwards when I was clamping. I would want a pin to act as a stop to ensure no movement.
> 
> Otherwise, great idea.


I am a builder/ finish carpenter and have used pipe clamps for years. They don't move,they bind up on the pipe big time! I can crush pieces of wood with just hand pressure. Holes would just weaken the pipe.


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## Hoyt Thompson

gashogford said:


> I am a builder/ finish carpenter and have used pipe clamps for years. They don't move,they bind up on the pipe big time! I can crush pieces of wood with just hand pressure. Holes would just weaken the pipe.


I agree here.

Drilling holes to have a set pin might critically hinder the pipe strength.


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## Rhody Hunter

I'll 3rd that one it seems unessary. I have never had one twist on me before


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## Archeroni

gashogford said:


> I am a builder/ finish carpenter and have used pipe clamps for years. They don't move,they bind up on the pipe big time! I can crush pieces of wood with just hand pressure. Holes would just weaken the pipe.


I'll take your word for it as you have more experience with them than I. I have some really old pipe clamps and have had trouble with one of them slipping. Must be a rare occurance. Thanks.


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## hoyt-a-tack

how stable dose it hold the bow? Seems like if you moved the bow side to side it would pop out of the press. Top heavy


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## Archeroni

hoyt-a-tack said:


> how stable dose it hold the bow? Seems like if you moved the bow side to side it would pop out of the press. Top heavy


That might be a concern. I have a finger type press and it holds the bow pretty snug but I expect you could pull it out, or at least sideways, if you tried. You could mount the pipe press under a shelf or bench or give it some legs if you wanted too to reduce that risk I suppose.


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## PastorRod

*$20.00*



Archeroni said:


> Looking at this closely I think you are right. ACME threaded rod available at Fastenal or McMaster-Carr. Looks easy to modify in that way.
> 
> I know some bows REALLY extend out when fully relaxed so I bet you'd need at least a 24" screw to accommodate just about everything but it could be done. Heck, you could make it so you used the "shorty" screw most of the time then on the occassion you needed to take the bow down change the screw out.


Race59

With the addition of the ACME threaded rod and a bow holder (see picture) this would be the way to go.



Rod


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## [email protected]

now thats thinking with your'' DIPSTICK JIMMY'' SHWACK!
see what this new obama stimulus economy brings out in are fellow AT'ERS 
brilliant my man,


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## F.C.Hunter

Got two quick questions for the builder. What is the overall length of the fingers? What kind of paint did you use? I'm gonna build me one even though I don't have a bow so when I get one I'll have it.


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## Hoyt Thompson

[email protected] said:


> now thats thinking with your'' DIPSTICK JIMMY'' SHWACK!
> see what this new obama stimulus economy brings out in are fellow AT'ERS
> brilliant my man,


dang it now I will be saying that for two weeks. LMAO


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## Race59

hoyt-a-tack said:


> how stable dose it hold the bow? Seems like if you moved the bow side to side it would pop out of the press. Top heavy


Well, actually it seems pretty stable... Haven't had any problems yet with the bow wanting to jump out or fall over. I suppose that if you were to torque sideways on a bow in any press there could be a problem.

I read somewhere that it takes about 200 to 250 pounds to press a 70 pound bow. Don't know if that's right or not but it sounds plausible. With that kind of pressure on the limb tips it would hold them pretty snug. I've seen pictures of guys lifting their bows by the grip while in unattached linear press and holding them in all sorts of positions.


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## Archeroni

You could also make your finger bracket L-shaped with the fingers 90 degrees to what you have now and mount the clamp feet to the front of your bench. That way it would operate more like the other linear finger type presses. The pipe would be clear of the string and the bow riser hang down.

More work to build but might make it a tad more user friendly. Just throwing out ideas.


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## Race59

F.C.Hunter said:


> Got two quick questions for the builder. What is the overall length of the fingers? What kind of paint did you use? I'm gonna build me one even though I don't have a bow so when I get one I'll have it.


I used Krylon hammered finish spray paint that I had sitting on a shelf in the garage for several years. Not sure of the color. Don't know if they still make it. 

The fingers are 3 inches long measured from the deepest point of the notch. In retrospect I don't think they really need to be quite that long. I guess if you build one and the fingers were longer than you like it would be easy enough to cut them shorter... A lot easier than stretching them!!!


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## QuickReflex

good looking portable press,as for the sliding back instead of drilling holes in the pipe try a large bearing collar it would be adjustable & locks very tight.


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## Race59

Archeroni said:


> You could also make your finger bracket L-shaped with the fingers 90 degrees to what you have now and mount the clamp feet to the front of your bench. That way it would operate more like the other linear finger type presses. The pipe would be clear of the string and the bow riser hang down.
> 
> More work to build but might make it a tad more user friendly. Just throwing out ideas.


I know what you're saying and that would be a consideration. One problem that you might have is that the clamp and fingers might flex unequally and torque the limbs unevenly.... Tighter in the center perhaps.

It's actually not as awkward as one might think to work on the bow sitting on the counter upside down. I've installed peep sites, twisted strings, etc. With no problem.

I think someone posted some pictures of a press they built on here using square tubing doing much as you suggested. It was a little more substantial than my pipe clamp press however.

I do appreciate your ideas, just not sure this particular setup is heavy enough to sustain it.


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## Archeroni

jtb1967 said:


> ...... Although I'm sure some will be yelling for adjustable fingers!


I might be visualizing this wrong so don't blast me too hard if so....

Could you make the fingers with a _slight_ V-shape (not all the way down to a point in the center, but headed that way)?

The top of the V would be wide for Hoyt limbs and a little lower the V would be right for thinner limbs with less gap?

THe trick would be putting the bend in it, I think. I would probably bend the bar stock first then cut the V out.

Wouldn't help on bows that need different off-sets due to string suppressors and the like but at least would accommodate different widths. I think?


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## mudtoy

so simple you would not think of it, im off to the shed!


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## Archeroni

QuickReflex said:


> good looking portable press,as for the sliding back instead of drilling holes in the pipe try a large bearing collar it would be adjustable & locks very tight.


I think that would work and is a much better idea than mine. Could replace the allen head setscrew with a thumbscrew for ease and speed.

I was suggesting an extra safety measure, just in case. Doesn't sound like it would be necessary but ....just in case.

http://www.triangleoshkosh.com/eng/products/oil-cups-shaft-collars/shaft-collars


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## lovemylabs

did you make and weld the fingers that are attached to the clamp?

awesome idea!!!!:darkbeer: cheers!


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## Race59

lovemylabs said:


> did you make and weld the fingers that are attached to the clamp?
> 
> awesome idea!!!!:darkbeer: cheers!


Yes, I did make the fingers and do a little welding. I used a 7/8" hole saw in a drill press to "drill" the hole bottom of the fork of the fingers and then made two vertical cuts to form the notch with a portable band saw. A 1 inch hole saw was used to "drill" the hole that the ¾" pipe passes through. Using a hole saw will generally result in an oversize hole, which in both of these cases was desirable. The finish work was done with a bench grinder and a file. All the fasteners are 1/4 inch.

The hardest part is getting all the holes to line up precisely which is important. Making a a template or pattern could be helpful.


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## gauchoand

*Genius*

This is an awesome Idea. By far the greatest DIY press I have ever seen...


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## MightyElkHntr

Race59 said:


> A few more photos.


Bastage! (cussing myself!)

I was hoping noone would beat me to it!! I am impressed!!! Great press for an even better price.


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## lightbeer

why didn't I think of that.
:darkbeer:


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## Hoosieroutdoors

That is a awesome thing,, it is also funny in the fact it was talked about here a few months back and everyone decided against it,,lol. Glad to see you did the footwork and made 1 happens,,my hats off to ya my friend.


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## Archeroni

Hoosieroutdoors said:


> ..........it is also funny in the fact it was talked about here a few months back and everyone decided against it,,lol. ........


Yep. And it looks like a few others shared my concerns about slip and rotation:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=828606&highlight=pipe


A little nicer clamp proposed for use in that thread, but also a little more expensive.


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## jtb1967

If you were worried about clamp rotation, you could go with a bar clamp similiar to this.


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## [email protected]

"Brilliant my man, simply Brilliant"!


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## Noblehunter

Nice Work!


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## FireFighterGuy

Cool idea!


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## tonyb

*great bowpress*

hey just a side note, I use a bowmaster cable bowpress and it has a 4" screw to adjust length and i use it regularly to swap limbs and take down bows. i would think you would only need 6 or 7" of screw to let a bow down. i don't know how long that screw is but it may work. great idea, i'm headed to harbor freight this afternoon, and the price is even better.


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## Hoyt Thompson

tonyb said:


> hey just a side note, I use a bowmaster cable bowpress and it has a 4" screw to adjust length and i use it regularly to swap limbs and take down bows. i would think you would only need 6 or 7" of screw to let a bow down. i don't know how long that screw is but it may work. great idea, i'm headed to harbor freight this afternoon, and the price is even better.


The screw may only be 4" long but seeing it takes up cable from the middle it actaually has 8" or slightly more.


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## JDS-1

AWESOME!!!!!! I think you just opened the flood gates :mg:

Can you post a pic with a bow pressed? Curious to see how much clearance around the cams. Where did you get the extension fingers that you screwed into the exsisting plates? Did you build them and if so how much do you sell them for?


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## jtb1967

He got me as well. I have a Bowmaster I've used for small work, but this seems to be much less hassle. I picked these up at Lowes today.


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## p47dman

I have used that style clamp for years. Please be careful as I have had them slip many a time.


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## jtb1967

p47dman said:


> I have used that style clamp for years. Please be careful as I have had them slip many a time.


How have you had them slip? Down the pipe or around it? I was planning on placing two set screws in the moveable end to avoid the clamp sliding around the pipe.


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## Race59

Archeroni said:


> Yep. And it looks like a few others shared my concerns about slip and rotation:
> 
> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=828606&highlight=pipe
> 
> 
> A little nicer clamp proposed for use in that thread, but also a little more expensive.


I think I've read just about every thread about bow presses and do recall pipe clamps be mentioned, but I don't remember that particular post. I think I like the blue clamps better than the red ones that I used!!!! LOL


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## Race59

Hoyt Thompson said:


> The screw may only be 4" long but seeing it takes up cable from the middle it actaually has 8" or slightly more.


I believe this is correct, the pipe clamp press probably doesn't have enough travel to change limbs. 

It's certainly not the be all end all bow press, but I think it'll get you by most of the time.


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## Race59

JDS-1 said:


> AWESOME!!!!!! I think you just opened the flood gates :mg:
> 
> Can you post a pic with a bow pressed? Curious to see how much clearance around the cams. Where did you get the extension fingers that you screwed into the exsisting plates? Did you build them and if so how much do you sell them for?


I think everybody is giving me just a little bit too much credit. I never thought I would get the response on this post that it has received.

Yes I did make the fingers that are attached to the clamp, but I'm not really looking to sell them. I'm way more interested in solving problems than production work!!! I have a few other projects I'm working on that I will share with everyone pretty soon.

The little rubber heater hose stops slide up and down if necessary. To get a little more clearance one could use a thinner material, or grind a little off the hose itself on the inside of the fingers. For bows that have string suppressors on the limb tips it wouldn't be too hard to tape or place a shim of the proper thickness as needed temporarily.

While I haven't done it, snapping off the E-clips and pulling the axles looks like it shouldn't be a problem.

I'm attaching a few more photos that hopefully will answer some of your questions.


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## JWT

Again, nice camera work! 

I think folks are getting the wrong message from the DIY section.....it is for archers to share what they made to save themselves money or to solve a problem, or just to show off some skills... not to generate sales. 

You made a fine press and chances are you don't own every possible limb configuration, make and model of bow so there would be no need to have the versitility of say an ez-press. 

Thanks for sharing the material list and the great description of how it goes together. 

Now all you guys go build on like it and improve on it so we can all copy that one too!! That is what this is all about:shade:


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## madarchery

Make a stand. That has a hook on each vertical leg to hang the pipe on. Now it hangs like the rest of this style press.

I was thinking taking this clamp. Attach it to a pc of angle iron so it lays on its side. With the feet of the clamp running against the inside of the angle iron. Bolt down to a stand and attach a bracket with fingurs already available here on At.

I wish I new how to draw on a computer


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## Steve Jo

Great job! and thanks for sharing

for those with experience in this type of thing, how do you modify the finger to get around a draw stop?

Would like to be able to press a bow without removing draw stops

Thanks


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## DaJester

Great job! that is a good way to use the old noodle....


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## zmax hunter

What if you bought 2 sets of the clamps and put the screw on each end, more travel. i guess you would need different pipes for different bows. Great looking work! very professional!


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## bcbow1971

very interesting.......I have a few old ones that I dont use and need to drag them out to see if I can get them to work for me. .... 

If your clamp may have any slippage like stated above with old clamps you may need to sand them down and clean some debris and or rust off and they do hold great!!!

Thanks!!!


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## JDS-1

So how much are you going to charge for the extension fingers? It's the only way this press will work and your sitting on a gold mine :mg: :darkbeer:


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## cmherrmann

Why not use a collar with a set screw to aid in holding the sliding part just for added saftey? I like the holder to keep the bow in place.


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## CraigR

I have used this press that Race59 built and it works very well. It is one of those simple ideas that works great. Very portable yet sturdy. Very good press for the cost.


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## bcbow1971

I am going to look at mine and gonna see if I can find some metal for the fingers sitting around the garage this weekend. I am about to clean out my tack room in the barn and move some stuff from the garage in there and I bet I will find all kinds of DIY materials!!!


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## mathews xt 600

looks like Im gonna be at harbor frieght this weekend. Thanks for the legwork!!!


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## QuickReflex

The only thing that I would add is some type of bracket to clamp or screw it to the bench or surface your working on. Otherwise there is the potetial of the bow falling & damaging something very costly. A simple piece of 2x2 angle
bloted to the feet should suffice.


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## blklab

I Copied your design and it works great Ill post up some pics as soon as I can.

Thank you,


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## Race59

blklab said:


> I Copied your design and it works great Ill post up some pics as soon as I can.
> 
> Thank you,


Great, glad it worked out for you!!!!

Looking forward to seeing photos of your version of the press.


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## wihunter402

I love the idea of this. What can some of us guys without welding ability do for fingers? I would need something that can be purchased either from someone on here or at a local hardware store and bolted to the clamps.


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## BLue677

nice job, thanks for sharing.


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## lefty150

*press*

simple but looks efficient!!! nice job


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## jtb1967

wihunter402 said:


> I love the idea of this. What can some of us guys without welding ability do for fingers? I would need something that can be purchased either from someone on here or at a local hardware store and bolted to the clamps.


I'd think it could all be done with no welding. If you cut your fingers from flat stock, you could just bolt them to the clamps. The one tube he welded to the finger that slides will make it smoother, but I'd think the press would work without it.


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## bcbow1971

OK I have a question......will this type work on a X-Force bows? If not is there any DIY presses that will......


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## Race59

lefty150 said:


> simple but looks efficient!!! nice job


Yes, simple just like me!!!! LOL

However, unfortunately I'm not all that efficient!!!



wihunter402 said:


> I love the idea of this. What can some of us guys without welding ability do for fingers? I would need something that can be purchased either from someone on here or at a local hardware store and bolted to the clamps.


I've been thinking about that and have a couple of ideas that I will try to post in the future.... busy working on some other projects right now.
I realize not everyone has access to a welder or other metalworking tools.

One thought I had was to use a piece of hardwood for an interface to the press fingers. That would create some space that would make the press work a little smoother and negate the need to weld on the extension tube. It would also make it a little easier to line up all the holes.



jtb1967 said:


> I'd think it could all be done with no welding. If you cut your fingers from flat stock, you could just bolt them to the clamps. The one tube he welded to the finger that slides will make it smoother, but I'd think the press would work without it.


Yes, the press works adequately well without the extension tube. It's just wasn't as smooth as I wanted it. The tube also takes out a little backward lean of the fingers that I wasn't liking, but as you say the press does work without the extra welded part.

This is actually the third generation of my original concept. I didn't want to post anything until I had something that I felt worked and worked flawlessly. I've already thought of a few other improvements since I made my original post. Innovation is never ending!!!

As for the clamps slipping or rotating, I haven't had any problems with this happening. Not saying that it couldn't, but it's a nonissue for me. Keep the pipe clean and rust free. I don't have any great concern over the stability of the press either. It hasn't seemed prone to tipping over as some have feared. Wouldn't say that can't happen, but I'm not real worried about it. I don't have any small children or pets in the house and don't leave the bow unattended while pressed. I even used it as a bow vice with just slight pressure on the limb tips. It's pretty easy to work on like that. All that said, a wider base sure couldn't hurt anything either.

If anybody comes up with any ways to improve or change the design feel free to post them.


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## Race59

bcbow1971 said:


> OK I have a question......will this type work on a X-Force bows? If not is there any DIY presses that will......


That's a good question, however I don't have an X-Force type bow to try to press on. I'm not even exactly sure how that type of should be pressed. 

I would assume that if an X-Force can be pressed on a linear style press with the regular fingers it could be pressed with the pipe clamp press. Of course, I could be wrong.... Have been before!!!

If anyone knows the answer to this I would be interested as well.


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## jpm_mq2

I really think you should sell these.I would buy one.


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## Beastmaster

bcbow1971 said:


> OK I have a question......will this type work on a X-Force bows? If not is there any DIY presses that will......


Theoretically, this would if....

1) the screw threads could handle the pressure. Past parallel bow limbs exert a bunch of pressure that is a bit more than normal parallel limbed bows.

2) The fingers has to have a shelf for the limb tip to ride against plus a bit of curvature toward the finger tips to help retain a past parallel bow limb.

With regards to the pressure - I work on not only my Bow Madness bows, but I've worked on a bunch of other PSE X-Force limbed bows as well.

I've seen an EZ-Press (one of the approved bow presses by PSE) extend out past 44 inches total to handle a Bow Madness XL. When it did, the slider part that extends in and out deflected outward by nearly 1/4" as it relaxed a BMXL with 60# limbs. 

When compressing a BMXL 70# bow, the motor on the EZ-Press strained almost to a stop. The same thing occurred with a X-Force 6 GX 70#.

It's not fun. So if you do this with an X-Force limbed bow or a Monster, be wary that this may strain it a lot.

-Steve


----------



## bcbow1971

Thanks that is good to know. I am thinking of making one of these for my other bow and will make a ez style one for my X Force if I get it.


----------



## walt pse

Maybe a bracket and plate under sliding end of pipe and a plate under thread end to mount on a table.I have a lot of pipe clamps from harbor freight and have experienced them sliding. :darkbeer:Like the idea of drilling a hole in the slider and every 1/2 or 1 inch for a pin for safety.Just my 2 cents excellent idea.


----------



## mongoosesnipe

*thanks for the idea*

i just made one but used 3/4" oak to make my fingers worked great pressed my x-force like a champ


----------



## p47dman

I have had the cam locks slip before. Granted it was ralphing on a piece of furniture being glued, but they can slip. The set screw might be a good idea.


----------



## lovemylabs

mongoosesnipe said:


> i just made one but used 3/4" oak to make my fingers worked great pressed my x-force like a champ


got any pics?


----------



## JDS-1

lovemylabs said:


> got any pics?


+1  You guys are amazing :darkbeer:

I need to make one soon but need a idea how to do it. Don't have access to a welder or torch cutter...

Is the wood really strong enough to do it? :mg:


----------



## Beastmaster

JDS-1 said:


> +1  You guys are amazing :darkbeer:
> 
> I need to make one soon but need a idea how to do it. Don't have access to a welder or torch cutter...
> 
> Is the wood really strong enough to do it? :mg:


I wonder that myself. 

The amount of force necessary to simply press it is a tad higher than what you need to draw it. 

But - to disassemble and fully relax it? No way would I use wood. 

-Steve
_Posted via Mobile Device_


----------



## mongoosesnipe

*not just wood oak*

as far as a full press and relax as stated earlier this press design is not suitable it only has 4 inches of travel but is plenty suitable for most every other application other than a limb or cam change which covers most archers press needs as far as the strength of the wood given equal proportions the steel it considerably stronger 1/4" oak wouldn't work but 3/4" is plenty strong given that it has straight grain and no knots ie good wood given a 1 foot over hang the 3/4 inch oak will easily hold a few hundred pounds out at the end the steel given that it is mild unhardened steel in 1/4" thickness will flex significantly if not bend under similar strain i pressed my 70# x-force hf turned down as directed in manual before pressing so it was probably around 60# when pressed and i switched my string mount stud for and extra 3/8" draw and noticed no flex in the oak fingers and no marring on the bow but the x-force does have the screws in the top of the limbs other bows i would probably put garden hose or something on the fingers and the para cord wrap in the bottom of the fingers is just for padding when placing the bow in the press


----------



## bcbow1971

Mongoose nice job and answers my Q about if it will work on an X-Force....looks like I found my press for sure.....even if I dont buy an X-Force at least I know it will work on all types now. Thanks!!


----------



## F.C.Hunter

Another thanks to mongoose for the answer, I held off on building the press until I found out if it would work on a X-Force.


----------



## ArcherAlii

*Irwin Clamps*

If you substitute the 1" timber with 1" steel tubing, im thinking this type of clamp will take care of any slippage or rotation. One could also use angle iron, spacer, then bolted to your bench or a custom stand.

This clamp is made by Irwin.


----------



## bcbow1971

ArcherAlii said:


> If you substitute the 1" timber with 1" steel tubing, im thinking this type of clamp will take care of any slippage or rotation. One could also use angle iron, spacer, then bolted to your bench or a custom stand.
> 
> This clamp is made by Irwin.


Nice clamp. You have a great point...how much travel does this clamp have?


----------



## ArcherAlii

bcbow1971 said:


> Nice clamp. You have a great point...how much travel does this clamp have?


I havent pick up this clamp yet so Im not sure how much travel it has.


----------



## gbear

ArcherAlii said:


> If you substitute the 1" timber with 1" steel tubing, im thinking this type of clamp will take care of any slippage or rotation. One could also use angle iron, spacer, then bolted to your bench or a custom stand.
> 
> This clamp is made by Irwin.


Where did you find this? I couldn't locate it on the irwin website. Do you have a description or item number?
Thanks


----------



## Neuralgia

I love this model. I just ordered from HF the parts... BUT

I have 3 questions:

1. How does the clamp attach to the tube (the part with the crank)? Is it threaded? I guess you can solder it?

2. If you would like more travel (not that I'm interested in changing limbs, just wonder), can you change the length of the "screw" by making a new one, or is it attached completely and you cant change it? (I remember playing with one of these when I was a kid, and I think they were not attached).










3. That Irwin clamp seems to address the "rotation" issues that some are thinkig anout, what's the name?

Race59, Thanks for sharing, as soon as the parts come down to Costa Rica, I'll post pictures of what I have in mind.


----------



## bigiron

*Press*

I just ordered this clamp to do the build and have a ? about the fingers as related to X Force type limbs.If you look at the fingers being sold on here for the "easy" type linier presses,they are angled forward and have a radiused surface at the very end. These presses all work w/the bow upside down or right side up whatever but opposite of how this press holds the bow.My ? is if your going to press a X Force type bow in this up position should fingers be slanted forward and radiused at the end? I assume the limb tips set inside this radius.It seems like you could get or laminate a 2" thick piece of oak and shape the forwar lean and radius ends.


----------



## madarchery

That last clamp set posted. If you put this on some prepunched tubing with outside diameter 1.5" or less you have the perfect set up. You just need a set of pins and you can move it any where you want.

Now I gotta try it.. With this its easy to fabricate legs and more.:teeth:


----------



## Race59

mongoosesnipe said:


> i just made one but used 3/4" oak to make my fingers worked great pressed my x-force like a champ


Thanks for posting the photos of your press. They will be helpful to help others to build an inexpensive and easy bow press. 
I thought about using a piece of hardwood for a spacer between the metal fingers and the clamp to make it easier for the nonwelders among us to build this type of press. I never considered using wood for the fingers themselves.



Neuralgia said:


> I love this model. I just ordered from HF the parts... BUT
> 
> I have 3 questions:
> 
> 1. How does the clamp attach to the tube (the part with the crank)? Is it threaded? I guess you can solder it?
> 
> 2. If you would like more travel (not that I'm interested in changing limbs, just wonder), can you change the length of the "screw" by making a new one, or is it attached completely and you cant change it? (I remember playing with one of these when I was a kid, and I think they were not attached).
> 
> 3. That Irwin clamp seems to address the "rotation" issues that some are thinkig anout, what's the name?
> 
> Race59, Thanks for sharing, as soon as the parts come down to Costa Rica, I'll post pictures of what I have in mind.


1. Yes, the clamp is threaded, ¾ inch pipe thread. The tube is a ¾ inch piece of black pipe that I polished down to bare metal.

2. No, the threaded portion isn't permanently attached. It is held in place by a small pin that can be removed (I replaced the pin on mine with a 1/4" set screw). I suppose you could change out the Acme threaded part for a longer one, but I don't know how practical that would be. I'm not sure that it has the standard Acme thread or exactly what the thread type is. The travel is only about 2 1/4 inches, but that is plenty enough to press a bow. Like I've said before you're not going to be changing the limbs with this type of press.

3. I really don't feel that slippage and rotation are a problem, but for those who are concerned there have been several ways discussed on this thread to eliminate that problem.

As for the Irwin clamp pictured, I couldn't find it online either.... Looks interesting.

Good luck with your press, I wished I could go to Costa Rica and help you with it!!!



bigiron said:


> I just ordered this clamp to do the build and have a ? about the fingers as related to X Force type limbs.If you look at the fingers being sold on here for the "easy" type linier presses,they are angled forward and have a radiused surface at the very end. These presses all work w/the bow upside down or right side up whatever but opposite of how this press holds the bow.My ? is if your going to press a X Force type bow in this up position should fingers be slanted forward and radiused at the end? I assume the limb tips set inside this radius.It seems like you could get or laminate a 2" thick piece of oak and shape the forwar lean and radius ends.



Mongoosesnipe built a press using just ¾ inch boards and pressed his X- Force. I suppose that if one were to carve a radius to conform to the limb tips that would work even better.


----------



## tek

gbear said:


> Where did you find this? I couldn't locate it on the irwin website. Do you have a description or item number?
> Thanks


The only place I have found it so far is in the UK.

Try searching for Record M130 clamp heads or Rec130N.

And Try these..screwfix.com, toolmix.com, tooltray.com and there are more
but none in the US that I can find.

If you find it in the US let me know please.


----------



## pyroman_27

*Nice Press*

This is exactly what I was looking for. Something simple and CHEAP. I don't take the limbs off that often, once a season just to check the pockets and clean them. This would be perfect for turning peeps, changing strings, anything like that. I'm going to build one. You should have got a patent, lol.


----------



## ArcherAlii

gbear said:


> Where did you find this? I couldn't locate it on the irwin website. Do you have a description or item number?
> Thanks


The clamp is described as "Irwin Record M130 Clamp Heads" Run a g-search on the net.


----------



## Neuralgia

tek said:


> The only place I have found it so far is in the UK.
> 
> Try searching for Record M130 clamp heads or Rec130N.
> 
> And Try these..screwfix.com, toolmix.com, tooltray.com and there are more
> but none in the US that I can find.
> 
> If you find it in the US let me know please.


Yes, it seems that it only exists in Europe, cause irwin.com doesn't have it.

I wonder how much would cost to make one, seems pretty simple.

Maybe here in Latinamerica would be cheap... I'll do my homework


----------



## ArcherAlii

*T-bar Clamp*

Try running a search on T-bar Clamps. Heavy duty clamps like these came up and may also work.


----------



## ace7038

I had a string on my vipertec start to come apart/fray very rapidly. I was afraid it was going to snap and I used a clamp just like you have with a couple of plates I cut quickly to save my bow from breaking itself. After getting the string off I put the clamp away and bought an apple press off ebay. I never even thought of using my quick idea to make a good usable press. Yours is nicely done.


----------



## Race59

*Quick thinking!!!!*



ace7038 said:


> I had a string on my vipertec start to come apart/fray very rapidly. I was afraid it was going to snap and I used a clamp just like you have with a couple of plates I cut quickly to save my bow from breaking itself. After getting the string off I put the clamp away and bought an apple press off ebay. I never even thought of using my quick idea to make a good usable press. Yours is nicely done.


Glad you were able to come up with something quickly and save your bow!!!!

I knew I couldn't be the only one that has tried this!!!


----------



## Neuralgia

Hey, just for the ones that are looking to solve the "spinning" issue, Harbor Freight has this ones.

I'm not sure if it includes the bar, but I guess you can change it to any length you might need:

24" @ $7.99








http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38183

36" @ $8.99








http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38184

Obviously, the bar won't be helpful, since we might all need, I don't know, 40"? I guess length depends on the bow we plan to press, but I guess we all might want to press as may bows as possible, so 45" fits everything right?

Those options seem to solve the "spin" issue, AND since the bars have holes (at least the 24" one seems to have them), you can be sure they won't slip. Again, we still have the issue of not having enough distance to relax completely the limbs, but as I mentioned early, depending on the clamp you get, you might be able to change the length of the "screw"... just an idea.

Anyway, just giving some info on the guys looking to make their own... I already chose the original model 

Race, thanks for sharing your great idea.

PS>Archer Alii, where did you find that clamp?


----------



## ArcherAlii

Hey Neuralgia, they call that one the RailWay Bar Clamp. The come in SIZE: 3 FOOT (36 INCH), 4 FOOT (48 INCH), 5 FOOT (60 INCH), 6 FOOT ( 72 INCH), 7 FOOT (84 INCH), 8 FOOT (96 INCH). These are sold out of China. Check out the website-www.flightrigging.com

Ive been running searchers on T-Bar Clamps, Sash Clams, etc. and it seems that most of the clamps are made in asia or the UK. 

I found the following from www.toughweld.com Its called the Bessey T-Bar Sash Clamp and they are made in the US. This one is kinda pricey at $111. but it looks solid. They are sold in 39", 98" and 120". Check out Bessey's site at www.besseytools.com.


----------



## madarchery

Searching.

JORGENSEN Aluminum Bar Clamps
Stock # Part # Description Price Quantity Buy
3524 3524 24 Inch Aluminum Bar Clamp $38.52 
3536 3636 36 Inch Aluminum Bar Clamp $42.87 
3548 3548 48 Inch Aluminum Bar Clamp $49.26 
3560 3560 60 Inch Aluminum Bar Clamp $56.99 
3572 3572 72 Inch Aluminum Bar Clamp $62.76 

1600# work limit. Rail is notched on 1" centers. Darn near perfect for $50

Thought this might me the cats meow for those interested.


----------



## Neuralgia

Well that obviously is a bit more expensive, BUT certainly less than $300 a press costs around here.

Do you have an idea of how much the fingers would cost?


----------



## goodnottygy

I like this bow press...going to make me one!


----------



## JDS-1

I went and got the clamp ends from Harbor Freight Tools today ($9.99) and the 3/4" pipe from Home Depot ($14 for a 48" pipe) Now I need to find some metal and my buddy is going to make the fingers for me. :shade:

Post up some pics soon..... :darkbeer::slice:


----------



## Race59

goodnottygy said:


> I like this bow press...going to make me one!





JDS-1 said:


> I went and got the clamp ends from Harbor Freight Tools today ($9.99) and the 3/4" pipe from Home Depot ($14 for a 48" pipe) Now I need to find some metal and my buddy is going to make the fingers for me. :shade:
> 
> Post up some pics soon..... :darkbeer::slice:


$14.00 for a piece of pipe? Man, that sounds kind of expensive. Was it galvanized? I used ¾ inch black pipe. In the photos I posted the pipe looks silver because I polished it down to bare metal. I believe it's the crud and mill scale that can cause slippage on this type of clamp. I did put a little bit of wax on the sliding part of the end that screws onto the pipe.

Looking forward to seeing everybody's finished products and perhaps improvements on the original. I hope everyone that builds one post pictures to share with all of us.


----------



## JDS-1

Race59 said:


> $14.00 for a piece of pipe? Man, that sounds kind of expensive. Was it galvanized? I used ¾ inch black pipe. In the photos I posted the pipe looks silver because I polished it down to bare metal. I believe it's the crud and mill scale that can cause slippage on this type of clamp. I did put a little bit of wax on the sliding part of the end that screws onto the pipe.
> 
> Looking forward to seeing everybody's finished products and perhaps improvements on the original. I hope everyone that builds one post pictures to share with all of us.


Yeah galvanized. It's the only stuff they had. I never bought this kind of stuff before so I thought it was pretty cheap, guess not. Next I might get the Oak wood or have my buddy build me some of those steel fingers :set1_thinking:


----------



## S.Caufman

*Clamp*

I found this clamp and will be ordering one today. The web site says that shipping is same day if you order before 2:00 PM ET http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003714/69/42-Capacity-T-Bar.aspx


----------



## lordmanxcat

*Bow Press*

Great looking design, and enough room in it, for slight mods as necessary. Kudos!

Thanks a lot, now guess what I'll be doing this weekend.....

:shade:



Race59 said:


> Well, after doing a little thinking and a trip to Harbor Freight this is the result.
> 
> My objective was to come up with something cheap, easy, and effective that most anyone could build themselves.
> 
> The fingers are made of 2"x 1/4" steel with a 1" slot cut. I welded a 1 inch piece of pipe on the crank end because it works a little better with that modification, but isn't absolutely necessary. 1 inch pipe fits pretty dang well over ¾ inch pipe with very little fitting.
> 
> 3/8" vinyl tubing was used to cover the fingers and I used half inch ID radiator hose for stops.
> 
> I made a few other small modifications on the original clamp (just because that's the way I am), but they aren't necessary for function.
> 
> Hope some of you who are bow press challenged find this useful. For a simple and cheap contraption this works surprisingly well.


----------



## madarchery

"I found this clamp and will be ordering one today. The web site says that shipping is same day if you order before 2:00 PM ET http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...ity-T-Bar.aspx"

Found this as well. I was going to post but haven't the chance. I would opt for the long 54" though. Never know what other ideas may come of it. Hate to buy short.


----------



## Bert Colwell

Great idea and execution! It's kinda one of those ideas that makes the lights come on!


----------



## Bert Colwell

Great idea and execution! It's kinda one of those ideas that makes the lights come on!


----------



## lordmanxcat

*$20 Press*

See posts #23 and #24.......

This same "stop" idea might be achieved, rather than weakening the pipe by drilling, with a sleeve with a small hole drilled in it, and a nut welded on, with a wingnut, behind the friction clamp. sort of a "set screw" idea, if you follow what I'm getting at. or, if you have the machine shop to do so, drill and tap through the side of the friction clamp, tap it, and put a set screw to bind it additionally to the pipe. Just a thought.

:shade:



Archeroni said:


> The only improvement I see beside thicker steel fingers is I think I would drill holes every 1/2" to 1" for a pin to "backup" the sliding end part of the clamp.
> 
> I have some pipe clamps similar to what you have and have had them slide backwards when I was clamping. I would want a pin to act as a stop to ensure no movement.
> 
> Otherwise, great idea.


----------



## lordmanxcat

On that note, keeping the pipe clean and free of oils on the friction side will help out wth "creep" also a bit of "roughing up" with some sandpaper from time to time will help.




lordmanxcat said:


> See posts #23 and #24.......
> 
> This same "stop" idea might be achieved, rather than weakening the pipe by drilling, with a sleeve with a small hole drilled in it, and a nut welded on, with a wingnut, behind the friction clamp. sort of a "set screw" idea, if you follow what I'm getting at. or, if you have the machine shop to do so, drill and tap through the side of the friction clamp, tap it, and put a set screw to bind it additionally to the pipe. Just a thought.
> 
> :shade:


----------



## lordmanxcat

Here's an interesting option too...a few more bucks, but a bit more stable as far as the clamp itself.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17397


----------



## AUSSIEDUDE

ArcherAlii said:


> If you substitute the 1" timber with 1" steel tubing, im thinking this type of clamp will take care of any slippage or rotation. One could also use angle iron, spacer, then bolted to your bench or a custom stand.
> 
> This clamp is made by Irwin.


These clamps are available in Australia but you will have to fork out about $45 us plus postage. Not a very cheap option.


----------



## bigiron

*Completed version*

Here is my completed version of the "20.00 bow press". I used 2x4 red oak for my fingers with rubber tape for the facing. It seems to work great on my Velocity which is only set @ 56lb.I do have abit more than 20 dollars in it as the 2ft 2x4 was 11.00 and the galv. pipe was arond 9.00. The manage att. thing is moving like tar in Jan. and failed 4 times to up the last pic. of my bow in the press.


----------



## bigiron

*Bump*

Bump to the top


----------



## Race59

bigiron said:


> Here is my completed version of the "20.00 bow press". I used 2x4 red oak for my fingers with rubber tape for the facing. It seems to work great on my Velocity which is only set @ 56lb.I do have abit more than 20 dollars in it as the 2ft 2x4 was 11.00 and the galv. pipe was arond 9.00. The manage att. thing is moving like tar in Jan. and failed 4 times to up the last pic. of my bow in the press.



Bigiron,
Thanks for posting the excellent photos of your completed press. It looks great!!! The pictures will be helpful for others to build something similar if they choose. You captured excellent detail.

Sorry you ran over budget on material. I used ¾ inch black pipe for mine. I think that should only cost about 5 or $6.00. It looks galvanized in my photos because I polished it down to bare metal. The pipe clamp at Harbor Freight occasionally goes on sale for $8.00. So I figured about $15.00 for the pipe and clamp leaving $5.00 for hardware and a little scrap metal for the fingers. Other than the clamps I already had most of the stuff in my garage.

Anyway, thanks again for posting your press. Hope it works well for you.


----------



## bvmoney

Gonna have to give this a shot. Tired of taking my bow to the shop! SWEET!


----------



## gbear

I nominate this thread for DIY THREAD OF THE YEAR. 
Just look a the creativity you've sparked here, RACE59.:darkbeer:


----------



## Neuralgia

My clamps arrived today from the US.

Wish me luck, I'll post pics as soon as I'm finished.


----------



## ebonarcher

I have looked and read about every post to this threadand I am sitting here wondering 1 simple question. Well reaaqlly it is a two piece question....
I know that those of us whom come here are basically just cheap.
Now please do not take it as an insult. I think all these solutions are just too cheap to see the answer for the best all purpose bow press.
First what holds the pipe to the end with screw clamp on it ?
Can we buy 2 pipe clamps and put a screws clamp at both ends making them slideable ?
That would double the pressing ability even though it doubles the price.
It would also put the handle in a position to remain fixed as the limbs are pressed if we turn each end equally.
I know that the clamps on the bar clamp style look like this would be very workable. Yes this would double the price but it is such a low price now would that be sooo bad ?


----------



## JDS-1

ebonarcher said:


> I have looked and read about every post to this threadand I am sitting here wondering 1 simple question. Well reaaqlly it is a two piece question....
> I know that those of us whom come here are basically just cheap.
> Now please do not take it as an insult. I think all these solutions are just too cheap to see the answer for the best all purpose bow press.
> First what holds the pipe to the end with screw clamp on it ?
> Can we buy 2 pipe clamps and put a screws clamp at both ends making them slideable ?
> That would double the pressing ability even though it doubles the price.
> It would also put the handle in a position to remain fixed as the limbs are pressed if we turn each end equally.
> I know that the clamps on the bar clamp style look like this would be very workable. Yes this would double the price but it is such a low price now would that be sooo bad ?


The pipe is threaded. So when you put it in the clamp end with the screw handle, it actually screws into it and can get very tight.

No on the 2nd question. They are threaded and will not "slide" on the pipe. You probally could cut the pipe down to just "barley" fit your bow, then when you screw in either side of it then you will have enough room to press it. (it will be a tight fit though and unless you get another bow the same ATA, it won't work)


----------



## ebonarcher

so you could have 2 or 3 sections of pipe then to swap them from 1 tom the next ?say a 40 a 38 a 36
or maybe a 47. 39 and 31 ? could they then cover anything from 45 ata to 
32 ?
--( )---\___
--------------------


----------



## JDS-1

ebonarcher said:


> so you could have 2 or 3 sections of pipe then to swap them from 1 tom the next ?say a 40 a 38 a 36
> or maybe a 47. 39 and 31 ? could they then cover anything from 45 ata to
> 32 ?
> --( )---\___
> --------------------


Yes, you could do that if you wanted to. You would just simply un-screw the pipe from the clamp, remove the other clamp and re-install it all on a shorter pipe.


----------



## bobbyh

*ratchet strap and two socket wrench extions*

After seeing the portable cable system bow press, i got the idea to use a simple ratchet strap and two taped-up extensions bars. I simply put the bars on the front of limps, hook up the "S" shaped hooks and crank. Can change strings, cams, and cables, with no problems and can carry it with me on a hunt, in fact just changed everything last week in order to be ready for early season this yr. Have a Martin Phantom, w/ z cams 30"draw, 70# and AtA of 37 1/2 " took all of 15 minutes. Best and cheapest bow press I've found yet.


bobbyh


----------



## JDS-1

bobbyh said:


> After seeing the portable cable system bow press, i got the idea to use a simple ratchet strap and two taped-up extensions bars. I simply put the bars on the front of limps, hook up the "S" shaped hooks and crank. Can change strings, cams, and cables, with no problems and can carry it with me on a hunt, in fact just changed everything last week in order to be ready for early season this yr. Have a Martin Phantom, w/ z cams 30"draw, 70# and AtA of 37 1/2 " took all of 15 minutes. Best and cheapest bow press I've found yet.
> 
> 
> bobbyh


What prevents the extensions from sliding up/down the limbs? Seems kind of risky if they slip at all....


----------



## lordmanxcat

I second that nomination.



gbear said:


> I nominate this thread for DIY THREAD OF THE YEAR.
> Just look a the creativity you've sparked here, RACE59.:darkbeer:


----------



## cricman

lordmanxcat said:


> I second that nomination.


All in favor, say Ay!

Ay!!!!!!!

I'm going to fab one up this weekend!

cricman


----------



## bobbyh

*ratchet bow press*



JDS-1 said:


> What prevents the extensions from sliding up/down the limbs? Seems kind of risky if they slip at all....


I was nervous about slippage also, however I installed my gizmo just as if I was using the Bowmaster Portable Bow Press w/o the Quad limb brackets and made sure there was tension, then just crank, works exactly as the Bowmaster and no slippage at all,plus it only took 5 full cranks of the ratchet to release the pressure so I could do as I needed,and I saved $60+.00 I am trying to figure out my digital camera and will have pics soon., I hope:
bobbyh


----------



## archery ham

After a week of searching AT for press ideas, I have found the press I need. 

I feel dumb after seeing the the first pics of this press. Why could I not think of this?

I work in a Tool & Die shop and I have access to some steel for fingers. I have some 3" thick plastic I could find a use for also.

Thanks Race59 !! This is what ths forum is for.


----------



## derrikd

looks great, just wish i could make the fingers... umm, gotta find those.. what a great idea..


----------



## donn92

*Press*

the press looks great but I would stay away from galvanized pipe the clamp will slip on it we use them in our welding shop and the galvinized slips very bad they recomend using uncoated black pipe would hate to see your bow come flying out at you


----------



## bjanzen

Saw this thread last night and went to Home Depot today and got the parts.....roughly $26 for the parts and made it up tonight. Used the JET brand clamps that are real similar in look and function with black pipe and red oak fingers. Works real well.......now if I could just get my peep to stop rolling


----------



## Race59

*Post pictures!!!*



bjanzen said:


> Saw this thread last night and went to Home Depot today and got the parts.....roughly $26 for the parts and made it up tonight. Used the JET brand clamps that are real similar in look and function with black pipe and red oak fingers. Works real well.......now if I could just get my peep to stop rolling



Glad you were able to get your press together so quickly. Hopefully it will serve you well.


Now, Post some pictures!!!


----------



## Race59

*Thanks to all who have posted*



gbear said:


> I nominate this thread for DIY THREAD OF THE YEAR.
> Just look a the creativity you've sparked here, RACE59.:darkbeer:


I think everyone's giving me just a little too much credit. There are lots of great ideas posted on the DIY forum every day. Many, in my opinion much better than this one. I'm just glad I was able to help a few people a little bit.

There've been a lot of people instant messaging me wanting to buy fingers to build this type of press. It was never my intention to sell anything or profit in any way from this post. I'm not really set up or really have the inclination to build a bunch of these for sale. If anyone has questions about how the press works or the parts necessary to build it they should post them here so everyone can benefit from each other's knowledge. I'm happy to answer any questions through private messages as well, but I'm not always as prompt answering as I would like to be sometimes. 



S.Caufman said:


> I found this clamp and will be ordering one today. The web site says that shipping is same day if you order before 2:00 PM ET http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003714/69/42-Capacity-T-Bar.aspx


This type of clamp probably would've been my pick if I could have found one locally. Before building my press I went to a lot of hardware stores and looked at most everything I could and settled on the Harbor Freight clamp because it seemed to fulfill most of the requirements I envisioned and it was available.

I would caution everyone who wants to build a press like this to shy away from any clamps that are not steal or iron. A lot of clamps are made out of some punky die cast "mystery metal". Personally I wouldn't trust them for this application.



Neuralgia said:


> My clamps arrived today from the US.
> Wish me luck, I'll post pics as soon as I'm finished.


Looking forward to seeing the finished project.



donn92 said:


> the press looks great but I would stay away from galvanized pipe the clamp will slip on it we use them in our welding shop and the galvinized slips very bad they recomend using uncoated black pipe would hate to see your bow come flying out at you


I think this is very good advice. Even some of the black pipe has a lot of mill scale and shellac or varnish some sort that could cause slippage. I polished the black pipe I used down to bare metal to avoid this problem. It's not galvinized, it just looks that way in the photos.


----------



## Neuralgia

I'm planning to make mine in 2 diff ways (depends on amount of money), 1 with wood, the other one with all metal, so:

1. What is the minimium shelve size (where the limb is supported)?
2. What's the angle between the shelve and the fingers
3. Wood version: What's the thickness of the fingers and the base that supports them?

4. And the last one, that's not in the pics, whats the distance between the the 2 fingers? (space for the cam)


----------



## Race59

Neuralgia said:


> I'm planning to make mine in 2 diff ways (depends on amount of money), 1 with wood, the other one with all metal, so:
> 
> 1. What is the minimium shelve size (where the limb is supported)?
> 2. What's the angle between the shelve and the fingers
> 3. Wood version: What's the thickness of the fingers and the base that supports them?
> 
> 4. And the last one, that's not in the pics, whats the distance between the the 2 fingers? (space for the cam)


1. You only need enough shelf to support the bow before pressure is applied and keep the limb tips from being forced down under pressure. I think about 1/8 inch is probably about all that would be necessary, a little more might be better.

2. I just measured it it looks to be about 5 to 7°. I don't believe the angle is all that critical as long as it isn't too much. When I built these I just gave them the amount of angle that seemed "right" and called it good. I didn't really have a specific number in mind. The fingers will work without any bend at all, I just felt a little bit more comfortable with a slight bend to help contain the limb tips.

3. I can't give you an exact answer on this as I didn't build them, but the builder stated that he used an oak 2 X 4 which would be 1½" X 3 1/2". So I'm assuming the thickness would be 1 1/2". Looking at the photos the shelf appears to be somewhere around 1/4 to 3/8 inch.

4. The distance between the fingers is 1" before any protective coating was applied.

Hope this helps. Good luck with your press!!!


----------



## Cashew

Great job on the clamp setup, I know what my next project will be. Too bad I'll put something else aside to get this running.
Great site.
Cashew


----------



## Neuralgia

Thanks Race,

Just so you know, at Amazon.com you can get the Irwin and the Rockler version of this clamps.

The Irwin one, doesn't need a threaded pipe, for all of you guys that trust the locking system that these clamps have 
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-224134-...f=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1250351846&sr=8-26










The Rockler, seems to be the same thing as the one Race used (Pittsburgh Tool), but if RED is not your color, and you have $7 lying there in pennies, and, don't trust that much the lock system, it seems to be a good option http://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Sure-Foot-Plus-Pipe-Clamp/dp/B001DSXM9E/ref=pd_cp_hi_2










I don't know how Pittsburgh Tool clamps (all I know is that it's a Harbor Freight brand, and that's made in China), compare to Irwin and Rockler in terms of quality, since where I live we don't have anyr of these brands, but it's nice to know that in the future you guys at the US might have more options (for a bit more money, btw)

PS: It seems that all three brands make their clamps in China, but you never know


----------



## sits in trees

this is really something!!


----------



## Dwayne

*Finished mine yesterday*

We DIY'ers use whatever we have around and I happen to have a lot of 1x1x1/16 square tubing. So that is what I used. I used a small piece of 1/4 inch steel plate to bolt to the pipe clamp and welded the tubing to that. I leaned it in so that if the bow did slip the bow wouldn't fall out of the press. I might have leaned it a bit far but I tried it on two different bows and it works great. I didn't bother to make any stops on the tubing but rather put on some 5/16 inch rubber strips. The bow doesn't move no matter how high or low on the tubing I place it.

As far as the pipe clamps slipping I think people are making too big a deal of that. My dad used his for gluing furniture for over 40 years and they held fine. New clamps really hold and I find it hard to believe we will wear these out. Do what you what you want though. BTW, I looked at the aluminum I-beam clamps at Harbor Freight and the aluminum wall thickness is so thin it tears when much pressure is put on the clamp - I know because I tried it.

Thanks much to all who contributed to this thread. Now I just might build one with a trailer jack...never satisfied I guess.

I attached a photo of mine and hope it shows.

Dwayne


----------



## Flatland Hunter

*What about this one?*

Looked on the Harbor Freight site and saw this set... what does everyone think?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65254

I will be getting something, using oak, and probably the rubber strips, really like those...


----------



## STUDENT-ARCHER

Nice job all, with all the talk of sliding and clamps, I couldn't help but think that a hose clamp behind the sliding end would stop it dead. My .02 worth.


----------



## sits in trees

STUDENT-ARCHER said:


> Nice job all, with all the talk of sliding and clamps, I couldn't help but think that a hose clamp behind the sliding end would stop it dead. My .02 worth.


yea or just clank a pair of vise grips on it...


----------



## Livn-Lg

Flatland Hunter said:


> Looked on the Harbor Freight site and saw this set... what does everyone think?
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65254
> 
> I will be getting something, using oak, and probably the rubber strips, really like those...


Longer travel could be more efficient in being a all around press. Different slide stops might need questioned to see if they can hold up to the pressure as description does not specify. Looks like a great possibility to me.


----------



## Neuralgia

Flatland Hunter said:


> Looked on the Harbor Freight site and saw this set... what does everyone think?
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65254
> 
> I will be getting something, using oak, and probably the rubber strips, really like those...


I also saw that one, but it doesn't have the "legs" that the other one has. for some reason I didn't like it.

You can also add legs...

The one I really liked is the Rockler one.

The fact that the one Race used on the original has HOLES for you to place the fingers, is another good hing. Not tat you can't add holes, but again, KISS system.

Besides, the original is $8, that one is $15


----------



## Race59

Dwayne said:


> We DIY'ers use whatever we have around and I happen to have a lot of 1x1x1/16 square tubing. So that is what I used. I used a small piece of 1/4 inch steel plate to bolt to the pipe clamp and welded the tubing to that. I leaned it in so that if the bow did slip the bow wouldn't fall out of the press. I might have leaned it a bit far but I tried it on two different bows and it works great. I didn't bother to make any stops on the tubing but rather put on some 5/16 inch rubber strips. The bow doesn't move no matter how high or low on the tubing I place it.
> 
> As far as the pipe clamps slipping I think people are making too big a deal of that. My dad used his for gluing furniture for over 40 years and they held fine. New clamps really hold and I find it hard to believe we will wear these out. Do what you what you want though. BTW, I looked at the aluminum I-beam clamps at Harbor Freight and the aluminum wall thickness is so thin it tears when much pressure is put on the clamp - I know because I tried it.
> 
> Thanks much to all who contributed to this thread. Now I just might build one with a trailer jack...never satisfied I guess.
> 
> I attached a photo of mine and hope it shows.
> 
> Dwayne


Thanks for posting the photo and description of how you built your press. It looks great.

I'm sure this will be helpful to others who want to build one.

Like you say, most of us do yourselfers use what they have and are familiar with. Many times people come up with ideas and solutions to problems that we've never even considered.

Thanks again for posting.


----------



## Race59

*good find!*



Flatland Hunter said:


> Looked on the Harbor Freight site and saw this set... what does everyone think?
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65254
> 
> I will be getting something, using oak, and probably the rubber strips, really like those...


Looks interesting. Might have to check it out.... Don't remember seeing this at my local harbor freight.

Looks like it has a bit more travel than the clamp I used, but probably still doesn't have enough to completely relax the limbs on a bow. One could possibly use 2 sets of these, (as others have suggested) and put a screw drive on each end which mite deliver enough travel. It would only take one piece of pipe to accomplish this as opposed to specific lengths with the type of clamp that I used.

One other thing I find intriguing about this clamp is that it claims to be ductile steel (not cast iron). Perhaps the fingers could be welded directly to the clamp. That would certainly simplify things.

And yes, Neuralgia, the descriptions say is that it does have legs though they appear to be much shorter than on the other clamp.


----------



## SERBIANSHARK

*How i did it*

I ordered two of the pipe clamps and then just used the adjustable sides. It gives me more then enough room to work on the limbs also. I bolted the legs to angle iron, and then mounted the angle iron through the work bench into solid backing. It's now a fixed press, with 12" of travel!!!


I also drilled a hole through the units, and the pipe and threw a bolt through the hole, now my pipe can't slide either. TOTAL COST.....$29!!!

BTW...Great thread.


serb:darkbeer:


----------



## sits in trees

SERBIANSHARK said:


> I ordered two of the pipe clamps and then just used the adjustable sides. It gives me more then enough room to work on the limbs also. I bolted the legs to angle iron, and then mounted the angle iron through the work bench into solid backing. It's now a fixed press, with 12" of travel!!!
> 
> 
> I also drilled a hole through the units, and the pipe and threw a bolt through the hole, now my pipe can't slide either. TOTAL COST.....$29!!!
> 
> BTW...Great thread.
> 
> 
> serb:darkbeer:


hey Serb, great idea, double the travel!!


----------



## madarchery

Pics Serb. Ya need to post pics.


----------



## sits in trees

i love this thread!!:thumbs_up


----------



## Race59

*Press finger diagrams*

Well, I'll try this again. I posted these diagrams yesterday but they disappeared. :-(

People keep private messaging me wanting to buy fingers, however I'm really not in the finger building business but I would like to help people build their own presses if I can... provided this style suits them.

I've been thinking I should post some diagrams to help people make their own fingers, but didn't really know how to do it. I'm kind of old school and generally just build things without any prints, and when I do use plans I just hand draw them. Don't know much about AutoCAD and such...

Anyway, I stumbled onto a thread here where someone had drawn a plan of a fletching jig using using a program called google sketchup.... Looked very impressive. So I download the program the other night and drew up a couple semantics. I'm not terribly proficient with the program yet but hope these will help.

A couple of notes for those to choose to do this;

1. If you use the 1 inch pipe that is welded to the fingers it will need to have the internal seem removed and be filed or laped to fit over the ¾ inch pipe. It isn't absolutely necessary to use this 1 inch pipe extension but it does make the press work smoother and takes a bit of lean out of the fingers.

2. If you use the same clamps I did the pre drilled holes in the clamps face very a bit from one to the next so I can't give exact dimensions to their location. You'll have to drill holes in the fingers to match the ones on the clamps that you buy. I also enlarged the holes that came in the clamps to take 1/4 inch bolt and drilled two additional holes for stability.

3. Do to variations in the castings the clamps faces may need to be ground flat so that the fingers will bolt up tightly and not wobble.


----------



## Flatland Hunter

Great sketch!


----------



## brian23

When are you going to start production? haha


----------



## FallingCrows

What about the fear of the bow slipping out?
Would it be a good idea to add some type of strap that goes around the bow and press?
Just a thought.


----------



## bowhunter685

*bump*

TTT for a awesome idea!:thumbs_up


----------



## Neuralgia

Race59 said:


> 1. If you use the 1 inch pipe that is welded to the fingers it will need to have the internal seem removed and be filed or laped to fit over the ¾ inch pipe. It isn't absolutely necessary to use this 1 inch pipe extension but it does make the press work smoother and takes a bit of lean out of the fingers.


Sorry to ask, but: What is "the internal seem" and what does the word "laped" mean?

Please remember, English isn't my first language :embara:

PS: Looking for black pipes here, everywhere I have looked, have them galvanized only :angry:


----------



## trlcavscout

I wish I had the tools to make the fingers. I am pretty useless when it comes to metal work.


----------



## chola

FallingCrows said:


> What about the fear of the bow slipping out?
> Would it be a good idea to add some type of strap that goes around the bow and press?
> Just a thought.


I am curious about this as well.....:thumbs_up


----------



## Race59

Neuralgia said:


> Sorry to ask, but: What is "the internal seem" and what does the word "laped" mean?
> 
> Please remember, English isn't my first language :embara:
> 
> PS: Looking for black pipes here, everywhere I have looked, have them galvanized only :angry:


No need to be sorry to ask, I'm always glad to help.

When pipe is manufactured I believe it starts off as a flat piece of metal that is then formed into a cylinder that is welded at the seem. The finished product usually has a small weld bead remaining on the inside of the pipe.

My usage of the word lapped was intended to convey that the larger pipe had to be made to fit the smaller pipe more precisely. Reamed might've been a better term. Though it appears to be perfectly round pipe is pretty crudely manufactured and seems to have pretty loose tolerances.

You'll just need to get a short piece of of 1 inch pipe and see how it fits over the ¾ inch pipe. If it slides and rotates on the smaller pipe you're good to go. If not, the easiest way to make it fit would be with a rat tail or half round file. You could also use sandpaper or emery cloth wrapped around a dowel.

If you have access to machine shop they could use a reamer or put it in a lath and bore the exact diameter you need.


Galvanized will work, but it would be best if you removed the zinc coating where you're going to weld.

I've attached a photo of the seem in a piece of ¾ inch black pipe.


----------



## Race59

FallingCrows said:


> What about the fear of the bow slipping out?
> Would it be a good idea to add some type of strap that goes around the bow and press?
> Just a thought.


I had my lovely wife assist with her Mathews Hyperlight and will let these photos speak for themselves. 

Haven't had any issues with instability.


----------



## Slyfox33

Excellent guide and a great money saver. I, like all the others before me, appreciate your work.


:rock::rock::rock:


----------



## chola

That's fantastic Race....I am gonna build one tomorrow.
It works out great for me, as I just put new cables and a string on my rig.
I can twist and tweek as the string settles in now..thanks for the great idea and all the pics:thumbs_up


----------



## Neuralgia

Race, thanks for the reply.

Now I know what you're talking about.

BTW, the pictures speak for themselves.

I hate sanding, that's why I'm looking for the black pipe... besides, I've been sanding som old furniture for my wife for the past 2 weeks.

PS: That reminds me to buy a Sander ASAP


----------



## CraigR

Ttt


----------



## Elkforbrains

*press*

I see you pressed a mathews bow, did you have to do anything with the fingers of the press because of the string stop? I shoot a DXT and figured I would need adjustable fingers to press it.

Thanks for the good idea.


----------



## jtmoney

Nice press


----------



## Race59

*Shims*



Elkforbrains said:


> I see you pressed a mathews bow, did you have to do anything with the fingers of the press because of the string stop? I shoot a DXT and figured I would need adjustable fingers to press it.
> 
> Thanks for the good idea.


Sorry it's taken me so long to reply. It's been a long day.

While I can't advocate anybody using this press on any particular brand of bow it will press anything that I have. However, I don't own a bow with the draw stop on the limb, but I think we could come up with a solution for that problem too.

The Mathew's dealer in our area has both an Xpress and EZ press and I've never seen them adjust the fingers on the EZ press for a Mathew's or for that matter for any bow. Not saying that's the right thing to do, but these people are supposedly the experts....

While it is difficult to get an exact number I've tried to measure the difference between the exposed bolt head side and the other came up with an average of about .035", if I did my math right. So that's not a real huge difference. Another wrinkle could be any cam lean involved, and of course the exposed screw heads have a smaller surface area than the other side so will probably sink deeper into any soft protective coating on the press fingers... Just a few thoughts...
Of course, It would make life a lot easier if Mathew's just made the damn things the same thickness on each side.... Problem solved...

To answer your question here are a number of ways that a Mathew's bow could be pressed allowing for the limb tip string suppressor problem.

1. An additional piece of vinal tubing placed over the fingers.

2. A plastic shim placed under protective vinal tubing.

3. A piece of metal flashing bent into thirds and slid under the protective vinal tubing.

I've attached some photos to illustrate the possible solutions.


----------



## Neuralgia

Race and guys:

I just bought a galvanized pipe, cause I couldn't find black pipe.

It was just $5 for 45", so now the question is, is sanding enough? or should I do something different to remove the layer or do whatever it needs to be done to avoid slipping?

D


----------



## Race59

Neuralgia said:


> Race and guys:
> 
> I just bought a galvanized pipe, cause I couldn't find black pipe.
> 
> It was just $5 for 45", so now the question is, is sanding enough? or should I do something different to remove the layer or do whatever it needs to be done to avoid slipping?
> 
> D


I googled some information on using galvanized pipe for clamps as well, as I am not an expert on this subject. From what I read a lot of people think galvanized pipe works just fine for clamps and others don't. One thing that did catch my attention is that the outside diameter maybe larger than standard pipe. That could cause some problems, but none that can't be overcome. 

I've always used black pipe for pipe clamps because it's what I had. In the past it seems that a pipe wrench is more likely to slip on galvanized than on plain black pipe. That would indicate to me that the same would be true with a pipe clamp. Paint and crud will have the same effect.

As for sanding down the entire pipe, I think I would wait until after you put the whole press together and try putting pressure on something other than a bow and see if it slips. Do this a few times at different lengths and if everything seems fine, I would say you're good to go! If not, I guess it's on to plan B....

You need to tell us exactly what you are intending to do and I will do my best to help you with it. The pipe you bought is ¾ inch right? Are you're going to use steel fingers like mine? Are you going to use the 1 inch pipe extension tube welded to the fingers like on the press I built?

My experience is mostly with black or plain iron pipe and steel. I mostly don't use anything galvanized because I don't like to weld on it. It can produce hazardous fumes and can be difficult to weld. If you need to do any welding on the galvanized pipe just grind down to the bare metal 1/2 inch or so beyond where you're going to weld. Make sure you do any welding in a well ventilated area.

Hopes this helps.


----------



## Neuralgia

Race, again thanks for the time and help.

I'm wanting, after finishing mine, to modify a bit the clamps, to have more travel, so you could change your limbs or whatever you may need.










You would have to ask someone to build for you a new thread, and somehitng to avoid the thread from bending/twisting.

I don't know yet if this can be done, cheaply enough to avoid just buying two sets like this








http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65254

But I'm really sure, it would be fun to try


----------



## Flatland Hunter

What would be nice is a long acme thread bolt. Maybe someone could mod up an acme as a replacement?


----------



## sits in trees

OK guy's heres mine, yea i'ts alittle crude but it works GREAT!. i made the fingers out of 3/4 oak, also made the oak a little big so the press stands securely on it's own. also replaced the crank handle with threaded rod long enough to make completely relaxing a bow for limb change no problem. i just crank the rod with a ratcheting gear wrench and put a nut on the force side wich i hold with an open end wrench.

also chopped the fingers off a leather glove and slipped them ove the oak fingers to protect the bows finish while being pressed....oh it also works on my crossbow!!


----------



## archery ham

Race59 said:


> Well, I'll try this again. I posted these diagrams yesterday but they disappeared. :-(
> 
> People keep private messaging me wanting to buy fingers, however I'm really not in the finger building business but I would like to help people build their own presses if I can... provided this style suits them.
> 
> I've been thinking I should post some diagrams to help people make their own fingers, but didn't really know how to do it. I'm kind of old school and generally just build things without any prints, and when I do use plans I just hand draw them. Don't know much about AutoCAD and such...
> 
> Anyway, I stumbled onto a thread here where someone had drawn a plan of a fletching jig using using a program called google sketchup.... Looked very impressive. So I download the program the other night and drew up a couple semantics. I'm not terribly proficient with the program yet but hope these will help.
> 
> A couple of notes for those to choose to do this;
> 
> 1. If you use the 1 inch pipe that is welded to the fingers it will need to have the internal seem removed and be filed or laped to fit over the ¾ inch pipe. It isn't absolutely necessary to use this 1 inch pipe extension but it does make the press work smoother and takes a bit of lean out of the fingers.
> 
> 2. If you use the same clamps I did the pre drilled holes in the clamps face very a bit from one to the next so I can't give exact dimensions to their location. You'll have to drill holes in the fingers to match the ones on the clamps that you buy. I also enlarged the holes that came in the clamps to take 1/4 inch bolt and drilled two additional holes for stability.
> 
> 3. Do to variations in the castings the clamps faces may need to be ground flat so that the fingers will bolt up tightly and not wobble.


Cool. I plug those number in my SolidWorks model and post some pics for blueprint uses.


----------



## Race59

sits in trees said:


> OK guy's heres mine, yea i'ts alittle crude but it works GREAT!. i made the fingers out of 3/4 oak, also made the oak a little big so the press stands securely on it's own. also replaced the crank handle with threaded rod long enough to make completely relaxing a bow for limb change no problem. i just crank the rod with a ratcheting gear wrench and put a nut on the force side wich i hold with an open end wrench.
> 
> also chopped the fingers off a leather glove and slipped them ove the oak fingers to protect the bows finish while being pressed....oh it also works on my crossbow!!


Crude but effective.... I like it!!! I like all things that work!!! Glad it worked out for you.

Very interesting concept. You came up with some ideas that have never occurred to me using these clamps. That's what this is all about people sharing concepts and ideas.

Is that 1/2" threaded rod and how long is it?

Could you post a picture of a bow being pressed?

Thank you very much for posting and sharing photos of your press. I'm sure this will be helpful to others.


----------



## Race59

archery ham said:


> Cool. I plug those number in my SolidWorks model and post some pics for blueprint uses.


Great, glad my sketches were useful. Looking forward to seeing the results.


----------



## archery ham

Dang it. My press is at work. I will get a number from the center of the pipe to the center of my bolt pattern at a latter time.


----------



## sits in trees

Race59 said:


> Crude but effective.... I like it!!! I like all things that work!!! Glad it worked out for you.
> 
> Very interesting concept. You came up with some ideas that have never occurred to me using these clamps. That's what this is all about people sharing concepts and ideas.
> 
> Is that 1/2" threaded rod and how long is it?
> 
> Could you post a picture of a bow being pressed?
> 
> Thank you very much for posting and sharing photos of your press. I'm sure this will be helpful to others.


yes it's 1/2 in threaded rod, 1 ft long, i did grind the end to fit into the clamp end. this is my diamond in the press, all though not a problem my mathews would require the brackets for the rubber stops to be removed for use in this press.


----------



## Flatland Hunter

That is what I am talking about! A long throw, threaded rod to completely relax a bow... my Bow Madness XL will need 44" to completely relax. I see now that you can get an Acme threaded rod to match the clamp, grind down the one side and just get 2 nuts for the drive side or get the all thread. Now, what do I grind it down with? Anybody got any ideas? No, bench grinder... just drills, dremel, saws, and hand tools.


----------



## JDS-1

I know HomeDepot has carbide tips for power drills you could try (it's a big grinding wheel looking thing) or maybe a file.


----------



## sits in trees

Flatland Hunter said:


> That is what I am talking about! A long throw, threaded rod to completely relax a bow... my Bow Madness XL will need 44" to completely relax. I see now that you can get an Acme threaded rod to match the clamp, grind down the one side and just get 2 nuts for the drive side or get the all thread. Now, what do I grind it down with? Anybody got any ideas? No, bench grinder... just drills, dremel, saws, and hand tools.


any automotive shop should have a bench grinder, if you have problems mail it to me, i will grind it and mail it right back:wink: oh by the way you gotta drill out that rivet thing that holds the original rod in place.


----------



## Race59

sits in trees said:


> yes it's 1/2 in threaded rod, 1 ft long, i did grind the end to fit into the clamp end. this is my diamond in the press, all though not a problem my mathews would require the brackets for the rubber stops to be removed for use in this press.


Thanks for the answers and the photos.



sits in trees said:


> any automotive shop should have a bench grinder, if you have problems mail it to me, i will grind it and mail it right back:wink: oh by the way you gotta drill out that rivet thing that holds the original rod in place.


You're right, a bench grinder is the ticket.

I just pulled the little rivet thing out with a small set of nippers that I use for pulling finish nails and drilled and taped the hole to quarter inch and put a set screw in it. 



Flatland Hunter said:


> That is what I am talking about! A long throw, threaded rod to completely relax a bow... my Bow Madness XL will need 44" to completely relax. I see now that you can get an Acme threaded rod to match the clamp, grind down the one side and just get 2 nuts for the drive side or get the all thread. Now, what do I grind it down with? Anybody got any ideas? No, bench grinder... just drills, dremel, saws, and hand tools.


I'm not sure you can get acme threaded rod to match this clamp. I don't believe it has a standard thread.

You can pick up a bench grinder at Harbor Freight pretty cheap if you're interested. If not a file and patience will work.


----------



## archerm3

here you go folks:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003714/70/54-Capacity-T-Bar.aspx


----------



## Flatland Hunter

Thanks guys... will keep an eye out at HF for a grinder. Have needed one anyway. So you think the acme thread on the clamp is not standard... I will probably do the all thread when needed then...


----------



## archery ham

What was the angle of the bend in the fingers? I have 7 degree on this model. 

What is the distance from the center of the pipe to the start of the 7 degree bend?

I plan on making it this week at work.

I will find out what the dimension is from the center of the pipe to the center of the bolt pattern that I made on my Bessey clamp on Monday.

Bolt pattern here is approximate. Don't use it.


----------



## Neuralgia

There you go. That's exactly what I wanted to do, relax the bow completely with a longer threaded rod.

Impressive.

What I don't get is how are you turning it, and how did you remove the original rod?

I guess that if you have a good shop, you can take the original rod, and make one with the same specs, just a bit longer...

D


----------



## Race59

archerm3 said:


> here you go folks:
> 
> http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003714/70/54-Capacity-T-Bar.aspx


I believe someone posted this type of clamp back a couple pages. 

Honestly, this style probably would've been my clamp of choice had it been available locally. A lot of times things look way different than you expect when you order them off the Internet.

Thanks for bringing it to our attention and posting a link.


----------



## Race59

archery ham said:


> What was the angle of the bend in the fingers? I have 7 degree on this model.
> 
> What is the distance from the center of the pipe to the start of the 7 degree bend?
> 
> I plan on making it this week at work.
> 
> I will find out what the dimension is from the center of the pipe to the center of the bolt pattern that I made on my Bessey clamp on Monday.
> 
> Bolt pattern here is approximate. Don't use it.


I measured it a few days ago, I believe it was somewhere between 5 and 7°near as I could tell. I don't think it's super critical, just make sure it's symmetrical. The distance from the center of the pipe to the start of the bend appears to be about 3-3/8". 

When I initially put the bend in the fingers I just stuck them in the vice and gave them a little tweak with a large crescent wrench. Generally, when I build things I just kind of have a rough idea in my head and start cutting and welding.



Neuralgia said:


> There you go. That's exactly what I wanted to do, relax the bow completely with a longer threaded rod.
> 
> Impressive.
> 
> What I don't get is how are you turning it, and how did you remove the original rod?
> 
> I guess that if you have a good shop, you can take the original rod, and make one with the same specs, just a bit longer...
> 
> D


It appears that he has 2 nuts jammed so they don't turn on the threaded rod, and then holds the nut near the clamp with an open end wrench as he turns the rod.

If you look closely at the clamp where the threaded rod attaches to the movable part of the clamp you'll see a small silver pin. Just remove the pin and a threaded part can simply screwed out of the part that attaches to the end of the pipe.

Yes, it would be possible to make a new longer threaded rod exactly like the one that came with the clamp if you had a skilled machinist and a lath. I'm not sure how much this will cost in your part of the world, but here you could probably buy one of the cheaper presses offered on AT the same amount of money.


----------



## sits in trees

Neuralgia said:


> There you go. That's exactly what I wanted to do, relax the bow completely with a longer threaded rod.
> 
> Impressive.
> 
> What I don't get is how are you turning it, and how did you remove the original rod?
> 
> I guess that if you have a good shop, you can take the original rod, and make one with the same specs, just a bit longer...
> 
> D


i used a standard 1/2 x 12inches threaded rod purchased at home depot. it doesnt match the existing threads of the clamp but rides right inside the threaded hole of the clamp. and yes i used 2 nuts on the end with the gear wrench on it, one nut jammed against the other. on the other side of the clamp i put another nut on the rod which i hold with an open end wrench (the single nut side). this nut is used because the rod is not threading into the existing threads on the hole of the clamp but riding thru them..... cheap, very simple and it works....


----------



## Neuralgia

BRILLIANT!

Last question: Can you weld the nut to the clamp, so you wouldn't have to hold anything?


----------



## Race59

Neuralgia said:


> BRILLIANT!
> 
> Last question: Can you weld the nut to the clamp, so you wouldn't have to hold anything?


Welding on cast iron is not for the inexperienced. You really have to know what you're doing. Brazing could be an option.

I think that one could take a piece of pipe and split it in half lengthwise and weld a nut on either either end and place this like a saddle over the existing threaded hole in the clamp. This way the nuts would hold themselves while the threaded rod was rotated.

I would caution though, that using only a 1/2" threaded rod for too much of a distance could cause problems. Something heavier might be better. Pushing is a lot different than pulling.


----------



## archerm3

Race59 said:


> I believe someone posted this type of clamp back a couple pages.
> 
> Honestly, this style probably would've been my clamp of choice had it been available locally. A lot of times things look way different than you expect when you order them off the Internet.
> 
> Thanks for bringing it to our attention and posting a link.


Yeah, I was just posting a link to where they could be purchased in the USA, seems guys were having a hard time sourcing them stateside. The more I look at it it seems that this would be the way to go. Alas, I have already dropped coin on an EZPress.


----------



## sits in trees

Neuralgia said:


> BRILLIANT!
> 
> Last question: Can you weld the nut to the clamp, so you wouldn't have to hold anything?


what Race 59 said about welding cast is true, especially cheap chinese cast, and his point about cutting a piece of pipe and saddling the nuts over the clamp sounds like an excellant idea to accomadate whatever thread your using..

i was a little concerned with the strenght of 1/2 home depot style threaded rod myself until i compressed a set of 175 lb limbs on a parker crossbow with no problem. only issue is keeping press stable during the cranking process.

as far as your average compound bow is concerned it takes very little travel ( maybe 2inchs)to compress to the point of being able to remove the strings and cables, especially when you loosen the limb bolts first, the long travel part comes into play when you are totally relaxing for say limb removal, but at that point the pressure is greatly reduced....


----------



## Flatland Hunter

It's recompressing that might scare some of us with preloaded limbs like the XForce and Bow Madness lines...


----------



## sits in trees

Flatland Hunter said:


> It's recompressing that might scare some of us with preloaded limbs like the XForce and Bow Madness lines...


yea i'm not sure this press would work with those types of limbs????so far i used it on my mathews, diamond, and parker crossbow and it worked great on all of them:wink:


----------



## bcbow1971

I wonder if this will work on X-Force bows??????


----------



## bcbow1971

gonna experiment this afternoon if I can find all the stuff on the way home.....if not I may have to head to HF another day.


----------



## Flatland Hunter

bcbow1971 said:


> I wonder if this will work on X-Force bows??????


Post #99...

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1055159275&postcount=99


----------



## Jellio

I made one of these last weekend and it works great,,,,,,one of the best DIY post of all time. Top Notch for sure.


----------



## Neuralgia

Congrats Jellio, and BTW beautiful bow.

Couldn;t help to notice 2 things:

1. You placed a "lock" to prevent the clamp from slipping. I guess it's just a hole wit a screw that goes through it, right?

2. I noticed that your clamp has something mine doesn't









Did it came that way? or did you modify it for an specific reason?


----------



## Race59

Jellio said:


> I made one of these last weekend and it works great,,,,,,one of the best DIY post of all time. Top Notch for sure.


The press looks great!!! You did an excellent job. 

Could you tell us a little bit about how you build it and what materials you used?

I appreciate your compliments, but man, there are a lot of great threads on the do it yourself forum. I can't help but think a lot of people have to be pretty tired of looking at this goofy contraption!!!

Thanks for posting, the more ideas we share the better the results. And thanks again for the compliments, though I'm not so sure I deserve them!!!




Neuralgia said:


> Congrats Jellio, and BTW beautiful bow.
> 
> Couldn;t help to notice 2 things:
> 
> 1. You placed a "" to prevent the clamp from slipping. I guess it's just a hole wit a screw that goes through it, right?
> 
> 2. I noticed that your clamp has something mine doesn't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did it came that way? or did you modify it for an specific reason?


1. Looks like a linchpin or retaining pin.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp...10551_10001_48538_-1______?rFlag=true&cFlag=1

2. I noticed the same thing, the piece of pipe looks like it's either welded or brazed to the clamp?


----------



## Jellio

The piece you have the arrow pointing to is a 1" piece of roll bar tubing welded to the original clamp it's not needed but makes it alot smoother because the machining isn't the best from the factory. I placed the pin in just for insurance purposes incase the clamp slips but it most likely will not I drilled 1/4" holes every inch in case I use it for different bows in the future. I used 2"x1/4" heavy steal for the the fingers just like the diagram above.


----------



## TheAncientOne

> I'm not sure you can get acme threaded rod to match this clamp. I don't believe it has a standard thread.





> Yes, it would be possible to make a new longer threaded rod exactly like the one that came with the clamp if you had a skilled machinist and a lath


A simpler way would be to install a heli-coil insert to match the threaded rod. Most automotive supply shops have the kits.

http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.asp

TAO


----------



## bcbow1971

Ok I made mine last night out of red oak and lowes clamp. Well it worked but my Omen has some really preloaded limbs and the crank end of the press seemed to lean back alot and cause the whole thing to bind when loosening. I had to use a hammer and hit the bottom of the wood, under the bar, after the slack came out of the clamp. I need those 1" tubs added to the clamp like Race used on his. I liked the wood and it worked good, I am going to look for some steel and tubing material as well. I will try and post some pictures tomorrow. 

Brian


----------



## bcbow1971

Ok I started with thicker wood with no luck and too much binding. I bought 1 x 4" red oak and cut it out as shown. 


I cut it with a 1" wide space for cams and added rubber grippers for furniture. I added 1" x 2" galv pipe piece and cut a hole in the wood halfway and it helped with the wood leaning. I need to cut it all the way through. 

I added 90degree angles and flanges to mount it to the table for better stability while pressing. 

I have a friend that is going to weld me some steel like Race did and I will try this. Race also suggested that I clean the pipe, especially since I used black pipe that has a coating....thanks I am gonna try that as well. Because I still get some binding when loosening the clamp. But may this thing works so great and the wood is unbelievebly strong and works great.


----------



## madarchery

Counter sink the screws and lower the pressing point of the bow as close to the bar as possible. That should help the binding also.


----------



## bcbow1971

Well I lowered the pressing point as low as I couls but the cams are so large that it still binded. But it helped.....I am going to do the DIY thing and keep tinkering.....You all have given me all kinds of ideas.....Just wish i had the metal working a tools and welders....


----------



## Race59

bcbow1971 said:


> Well I lowered the pressing point as low as I couls but the cams are so large that it still binded. But it helped.....I am going to do the DIY thing and keep tinkering.....You all have given me all kinds of ideas.....Just wish i had the metal working a tools and welders....


I bet if you were to polish up the ¾ inch black pipe your press would work a lot better. I also used a bit of bicycle chain wax on the pipe of crank end of my press. I think the key is to minimize friction on the working end of the press. If you want it to work smooth make the parts smooth.

Adding the 1 inch pipe nipple that is screwed into the wooden fingers on your press looks like a really good idea for those who choose to use wood.


----------



## crazy4hunting

alright. this is the best thread. i got a ?. lots of you guys have built these, what kind of bow work have you done with it so far. is string replacment something that can be done with this. looks like the cams are very close to the fingers, can strings and cabels be changed with this press? hoping im not sounding dumb here, im just to the point of not liking anyone else touching my bow if i can help it, and want to do this work myself.


----------



## Race59

crazy4hunting said:


> alright. this is the best thread. i got a ?. lots of you guys have built these, what kind of bow work have you done with it so far. is string replacment something that can be done with this. looks like the cams are very close to the fingers, can strings and cabels be changed with this press? hoping im not sounding dumb here, im just to the point of not liking anyone else touching my bow if i can help it, and want to do this work myself.


Only jobs I've had to perform with this press are to twist the strings and cables, install peep sites, and things such as these. So I'm quite certain you could change strings and cables. I also don't see any reason why cams couldn't be changed using this press, though I haven't done so yet.

The only limitation that I'm aware of would be to completely relax the bow for limb changes, etc.. A solution to this problem has been posted above.


----------



## madarchery

You know guys with the last pics shown. With that bolt down flange he has. If you spu the clamps 90. You could rig up fingers that are for sale in the classifieds to work with this system. You bolt on a pc of angle iron to the clamp surfaces so you have a horizontal flat mounting area for the bolt on fingers cool hand makes. Sure you just added $70 but ya still have a linear press for less then $100.

OH and if you gringd out the threads on the screw clamp side. You can slip over the pipe. Drill a hole through it and the pipe every inch or so. Now you have 2 screws for extra travel. You have the fixed end and you have the edj screw clamp that you have out 3/4 ways. Now you should have enough to relax limbs if you wish.


----------



## Race59

madarchery said:


> You know guys with the last pics shown. With that bolt down flange he has. If you spu the clamps 90. You could rig up fingers that are for sale in the classifieds to work with this system. You bolt on a pc of angle iron to the clamp surfaces so you have a horizontal flat mounting area for the bolt on fingers cool hand makes. Sure you just added $70 but ya still have a linear press for less then $100.


I've thought about doing something like this as well, but worry that the ¾ inch pipe is not stiff enough if the load is placed off of center like that. I'm afraid that the limb tips portion closest to the pipe would be pressed more than the other half due to the flex of the pipe itself and any slack in the pipe clamps resulting in twisting the limb. Whereas when the center line of the bow is the same as the clamp and pipe any flex is irrelevant because it is equal on both sides of the limb.

I could be wrong, but that's my thoughts anyway.

I haven't encountered any problems working on the bow "upside down" as compared to conventional presses. It may take a little getting used to for some people. I've been around EZpresses and don't feel they are that much easier to use than the pipe clamp press. There is no doubt that the EZ press is far more versatile and the construction is no comparison to the stupid little pipe clamp unit, but the price is no comparison either.


----------



## madarchery

I to was concerned with the out of square issue. but I figured with adj fingers and set of the fingers 1 time would take care of limb twisting. That and I do not think you would have all that muck bar distortion. Now the smoothness of the clamp would be an issue. But I am really thinking of using the t or I track clamps just for this reason. Or at least adding a 12" long riding tube as you did.


----------



## Jellio

For what I do with my bow this fits the bill just fine. I'd be foolish to buy one of the expensive presses for the work I do.


----------



## bcbow1971

Ok pics to come in the morning...I polished the black off the pipe and cleaned everything up and redrilled new holes and lubed it up with silicone spray.....works like a champ......Thanks Race!!!


----------



## AR_Headhunter

I nominate this for the thread of the year! Great thread guys!


----------



## beaverman

bcbow1971 said:


> Ok I started with thicker wood with no luck and too much binding. I bought 1 x 4" red oak and cut it out as shown.
> 
> 
> I cut it with a 1" wide space for cams and added rubber grippers for furniture. I added 1" x 2" galv pipe piece and cut a hole in the wood halfway and it helped with the wood leaning. I need to cut it all the way through.
> 
> I added 90degree angles and flanges to mount it to the table for better stability while pressing.
> 
> I have a friend that is going to weld me some steel like Race did and I will try this. Race also suggested that I clean the pipe, especially since I used black pipe that has a coating....thanks I am gonna try that as well. Because I still get some binding when loosening the clamp. But may this thing works so great and the wood is unbelievebly strong and works great.


I built one very similar a couple weeks ago with that clamp from Lowes on black pipe and mine binds as well. The clamp has a lot of slop in it (don't know if it is any worse than the harbor freight ones) due to the oversized hole in the jaw on the screw side. Since the hole is too big it tilts on an angle when you press or relax it. Mine binds with no load on it at all. I smoothed up my pipe real good and it helped some but I thnk the culprit is the slop caused by the over sized holes on that model clamp.


----------



## Neuralgia

I guess Race doesn't have that bind because what guides the travel is the 1" pipe he welded to the fingers, something I haven't seen on the models posted here.

I guess that those of us that try with wood, need a bit more thickness on the bottom/base of the fingers.

----------------


> I've thought about doing something like this as well, but worry that the ¾ inch pipe is not stiff enough if the load is placed off of center like that. I'm afraid that the limb tips portion closest to the pipe would be pressed more than the other half due to the flex of the pipe itself and any slack in the pipe clamps resulting in twisting the limb. Whereas when the center line of the bow is the same as the clamp and pipe any flex is irrelevant because it is equal on both sides of the limb.


The only way to control that, would be placing the 3/4 pipe inside the 1" pipe, but I can't see how to grind the inner part of the 1" all the way through to make it fit (besides of weight problems).

Now if you wanted to work with the bow with the strings on top (the reason you want to use the fingers on the classifieds), I'd do the following:

1 (Green). If you watch carefully, when you screw the clamp on the pipe, there's enough thread on the other end to place a nipple, maybe 20 or 10 cms long.

2. (Yellow) Build out of wood, metal, whatever you have lying around, 2 stands.

3. (Red) The only thing you have to watch is to place the clamp in such way that the part you turn (handle), doesn't get in the way of the stand or the nipple. Just adjust the other end of the clamp, so when you turn it, the handle is as close as possible to the clamp itself.

*. Obviously, and unfortunately, you would have to be taking the nipple off to press the bow, and place it again to place it in the stand.

I designed this in the new Autocad:










I guess that would add the cost of the nipple ($0.05, according to Google), and the stands, which if you use wood, I guess you can add $10.

I would only do this if I was placing a new center serving or placing a new peep sight... I guess I'll know if my idea works, or is needed when I finish mine.

I guess I should start doing something about it, and stop wasting my time posting on AT


----------



## bcbow1971

beaverman said:


> I built one very similar a couple weeks ago with that clamp from Lowes on black pipe and mine binds as well. The clamp has a lot of slop in it (don't know if it is any worse than the harbor freight ones) due to the oversized hole in the jaw on the screw side. Since the hole is too big it tilts on an angle when you press or relax it. Mine binds with no load on it at all. I smoothed up my pipe real good and it helped some but I thnk the culprit is the slop caused by the over sized holes on that model clamp.


Beaverman I believe that you are right they do have a lot of play on the collar but I did find that there were some at the store that seemed to bind in the threads some too.....I went through 4 different at the store yesterday finding the best one. I will be taking me a 3/4 piece of pipe with me to harbor frieght and or wherever else I can find some more clamps..

As for these picture it works great now that I lubed it up with silicone and added that 1" pipe threaded into the wood over the 3/4" pipe. It helps with stability. The picture with my Omen in it actually is pressed and needs maybe one more full crank to get it to be relaxed enough to take a string loose. Notice the thread on the clamp is barely moved, maybe 1 1/2" or less and the bow is already pressed with ease. 

I mounted the 90degree and mount on the the non clamp end to temporarily screw it to my work bench and the other end would interfear with the crank so I just drilled and screwed two screws into the bench at the base of the clamp and hold tight!!!


BTW thats my papertune shots from my Omen after being able to tune it properly!!


----------



## bjanzen

Guys,

I built one of these a few weeks back and have used it a BUNCH....Love it. Best $28 I have spent on this hobby.....

I doubled up the red oak on the bottom half for thickness and openned the hole up a little...No binding issues. Were some at first but I had the wood fingers too tight. I also made feet with some excess wood and screwed to the bottom of the fingers as a stand. Sits on my table quite stable. I also clamp one end down and let the other just slide back and forth as I press.

I have in fact swapped strings with mine. Just have to lift the bow a little for clearance as you tighten it. Works like a Champ....:wink::wink:



Barry


----------



## bnbplay

*sweet*

Sweet bow press.


----------



## starr06

this thing is bad @**


----------



## Rick C

*Nice,, Just what I needed*

Sweet Press, and thanks from all that had some input in this,,, Race59 fantastic Idea....... 










I was having the same problem with it jamming on the release and added a piece of top rail off an chain link fence. Works like a charm.










I have changed strings and have had plenty of room to work around the cams.
I used 1"X3" oak and glued two pieces together, with the grain opposite each other. I went with the cut out ledges as I had plenty of wood to work with, and used felt pads as a backer.

I had everything at home, but my old wood clamps were so low to the bench I bought a new clamp at Lowes,,, $15 bucks. Had two buddy's make one also.

Again great press,, does what I need...



Thanks RC








..


----------



## JDS-1

Why do you need the piece of pipe that goes over the original pipe? I see some pics with it and some without. Don't understand that part of the press


----------



## Rick C

it keeps is from binding when you back the press off, mine was jamming up on the release, now it works fine. I think it's just when you are using wood not the metal fingers.


----------



## Jellio

I needed it on my metal fingers maybe I got a bad one or something when I bought the press but it wasn't smooth enough for me,,,,,,,,,if you have the material and can weld I say put them on it makes it much smother all the way around.


----------



## Neuralgia

How did everyone make the holes on the clamp.

Regular metal drill bits or something hyper-mega-special?

Are they really necessary? I see some don't have'em.


----------



## bcbow1971

Well If you make the metal fingers those guys have added pipes on theres as well. 

I like the long piece of fence pipe......

Good job everyone....

Its awsome how it can press a bow with only a few cranks.....even my X-Force which are some hard limbs to press....

TTT


----------



## bcbow1971

Ttt


----------



## jmckay

*Sweet Press!!!*

This is one awesome idea for a press. I too have been looking for a less expensive bench style press and this is going to be it. Going to the hardware store this weekend for supplies!


----------



## jmckay

Has anyone worked out a way to use this with the strings up? Maybe some sort of stand or something? Just bouncing around ideas.


----------



## phipdeer

I may try one of these.


----------



## JDS-1

Mine is almost done :tongue: Little more drilling and find someone to weld and I'll be done :grin: Pics coming soon.........


----------



## JDS-1

*All finished and works great.*

I had to remove my draw stop because it was hitting on the inside of the finger. (07' Allegiance) I beefed up the set screw on the handle end so it could take the torque. (drilled and taped it with threads :wink Couldn't get the bar welded so I use it as a slide hammer in conjunction with the base of the finger being tied tight on the bottom half. Back it out and a little tap on the finger keeps it moving nice and steady with no binding! It takes about 4 turns and the bow is completely relaxed and ready to work on. I tested it several times and it is very simple to do! I used radiator hose to cushion the finger


----------



## Race59

JDS-1 said:


> Why do you need the piece of pipe that goes over the original pipe? I see some pics with it and some without. Don't understand that part of the press


The piece of pipe, while it isn't absolutely necessary, helps make the press work smoother and eliminates a bit of backward lean of the press fingers. Overall, it just makes the whole thing more stable and work better.



Neuralgia said:


> How did everyone make the holes on the clamp.
> 
> Regular metal drill bits or something hyper-mega-special?
> 
> Are they really necessary? I see some don't have'em.


I'm not exactly sure I understand your question, but regular drill bits designed to drill steel work fine on the clamps and metal fingers.



jmckay said:


> Has anyone worked out a way to use this with the strings up? Maybe some sort of stand or something? Just bouncing around ideas.


I haven't encountered any problems working on, or pressing the bow with the string down.

If one really wanted the string up there any number of ways to accomplish this, but I really don't see the advantage for need for it.... Just makes the whole thing more complicated and cumbersome. The simplicity of this device is what I was trying to achieve in the initial design.


----------



## Race59

*Thanks*

Thanks to everyone for their kind remarks, glad you found this thread helpful. I especially appreciate those who have posted photos of their presses. Photos are definitely helpful to show others different ways to utilize and expand on this idea.

I wanted to post a couple more photos on how to tighten up tolerances and make the whole press work a little smoother.

Don't feel like you have to use the 1" copper pipe, but using the wax definitely helps keep things moving smoothly. I use this particular wax on a lot of things. It reduces friction and doesn't leave a greasy residue to collect dust or get all over everything.

If you choose to use the copper pipe, it does take a little skill and a lot of patience. It isn't absolutely necessary and I debated even posting this idea because I didn't want to scare people off from using the clamps, but there's been quite a few comments about the loose tolerances of the clamps and problems with binding.

The process is pretty straightforward; first cut a short piece of 1 inch copper pipe to the appropriate length, then peen of the protruding portion on each side to form an a symmetrical ring effectively locking it in place. The clamp with the copper insert then needs to be lapped or filed to fit over the ¾ inch black pipe.


----------



## sits in trees

it's not the meek who shall inherit the earth, it's the guy's who build these presses from nothing that will!!:wink:


----------



## Archeroni

Race59, What you've made is a copper version of a bronze sleeve bearing or bronze shoulder bearing. Shoulder bearings already have the "lip". If you can measure the ID and OD pretty precisely that would help other DIY's to buy the size they need. Lots of sources on the net. Here is an example for sleeve bearings:

http://www.asbbearings.com/Products/specs/bronze_sleeve_bearing_s4.htm


----------



## trlcavscout

archerm3 said:


> here you go folks:
> 
> http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003714/70/54-Capacity-T-Bar.aspx



I think I will try this route since I dont have access to a welder. Would you still need to replace the bolt? Probably if you wanted to totally relax the bow, but not for peep changes etc right? I am tool challenged on this stuff. Thanks.


----------



## Neuralgia

you're right, only for complete relaxing of limbs.

I got my wood fingers today


----------



## happyhuntr

*here is my $20 (actually $50) bow press*

i have been watching this thread for awhile and i could not resist.
i had to make one for me.
one of my bows has a string dampner on one limb so i had to have an adjustable press.
here is what i came up with- if you have any input please respond(this is an awsome thread)


this is an overall view








if you notice the amount of screw used you can see that it doesn't take much throw to press a bow.


here is a closeup of the adj. arms









here is a view of the string dampner i needed to get around.


----------



## b0w_bender

Simply spectacular, one of the best things I've seen on AT!


----------



## Twitch

Any of you all with Reezens you don't need the fingers. I lay my bow horizontally and put thin strips of rubber between the clamp ends and the limbs(after backing off the limb bolts). Put the clamp ends about 1/8" or so from the cam and idler on the riser side and press away.


----------



## Race59

*Outstanding!!!*



happyhuntr said:


> i have been watching this thread for awhile and i could not resist.
> i had to make one for me.
> one of my bows has a string dampner on one limb so i had to have an adjustable press.
> here is what i came up with- if you have any input please respond(this is an awsome thread)
> 
> 
> this is an overall view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you notice the amount of screw used you can see that it doesn't take much throw to press a bow.
> 
> 
> here is a closeup of the adj. arms
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here is a view of the string dampner i needed to get around.


What a elegant solution for adjustable fingers!!!

You did a beautiful job, very clean and professional looking.

And, you are right, it doesn't take a lot to press a bow. I think people way over estimate the difficulty and force required to accomplish this task.

Could you tell us a little bit more about your press, such as what materials were used and some details about the build.

Thanks for posting


----------



## bucksnortinted

*bar clamp press*

this bar clamp press is simple but sweet,i am gonna build one of these i had an omni bench press and didn't like the way it pressed my x-force this is cool

Ted


----------



## buckeyboy

Thats pretty Darn slick
Iwould still ratchet strap the riser to the pipe just in case.
fantastic Idea


----------



## fat kid

cool


----------



## Rick C

buckeyboy said:


> Thats pretty Darn slick
> Iwould still ratchet strap the riser to the pipe just in case.
> fantastic Idea



just in case of what?


----------



## sits in trees

happyhuntr said:


> i have been watching this thread for awhile and i could not resist.
> i had to make one for me.
> one of my bows has a string dampner on one limb so i had to have an adjustable press.
> here is what i came up with- if you have any input please respond(this is an awsome thread)
> 
> 
> this is an overall view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you notice the amount of screw used you can see that it doesn't take much throw to press a bow.
> 
> 
> here is a closeup of the adj. arms
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here is a view of the string dampner i needed to get around.


holy crap that is awesome!!!


----------



## DCRanger

Twitch said:


> Any of you all with Reezens you don't need the fingers. I lay my bow horizontally and put thin strips of rubber between the clamp ends and the limbs(after backing off the limb bolts). Put the clamp ends about 1/8" or so from the cam and idler on the riser side and press away.


Can you post a picture? I've got a Reezen and have some of these bar clamps in the garage from when I did woodworking. Never thought of using them as a press. Great idea. How much did you back your limbs out before pressing? I've got 60-70lb limbs and there set about 65lbs. Thanks.


----------



## Twitch

DCRanger said:


> Can you post a picture? I've got a Reezen and have some of these bar clamps in the garage from when I did woodworking. Never thought of using them as a press. Great idea. How much did you back your limbs out before pressing? I've got 60-70lb limbs and there set about 65lbs. Thanks.


I backed off the limb bolts 5 turns. Just make sure the clamp ends that press the bow are *atleast* as wide as the limbs.

I was going to post pics, but when I grabbed the cam the batteries were missing(kids). Shoot me a PM with an email addy and I will send pics next time I press the bow.


----------



## 570archer55

Great idea. I,m going to use spewingjason's articulating bow vice as a base holder.


----------



## dave308

Alright guys I'm at my breaking point here. I've tried and tried to make the fingers for this press and can't seem to get it. For some reason I can't get both ends to turn out the same 

I hate to ask but is there anyone that can make a set for me for a decant price? If you can please PM me, I really need some help.

Thanks
Dave


----------



## Thansen

Great idea!! and the price is right!!


----------



## ArcherAlii

dave308 said:


> Alright guys I'm at my breaking point here. I've tried and tried to make the fingers for this press and can't seem to get it. For some reason I can't get both ends to turn out the same
> 
> I hate to ask but is there anyone that can make a set for me for a decant price? If you can please PM me, I really need some help.
> 
> Thanks
> Dave


I want in too. Please PM me too. I have the clamp, just need a set of fingers.


----------



## Neuralgia

ttt

Just wanted to get this again to the 1st page.

I'm still waiting for my commander to arrive, and get the right measurementes to finish mine... same thing for my strings for my Diamond Rapture.

What about you guys, any new tips?


----------



## tarleet

Ooo nice!


----------



## Brettos

Here's my attempt of a bow press. 

Presses the 82nd Airbonre easily, and only uses about half of the travel in the screw. So still got plenty of room for more. Should do most bows (apart from the new PSE's)

Made from a t-bar clamp - $25.00 (bunnings)
150 x 75 x 8mm Angle, cut in half - $ 5 (bunnings)
4 x 5/8 cable gromets - $ 6.00
6mm x 40mm nuts n bolts - $5.00 
1 x roll of blue electrical tape.
And about 4 hours of drilling and angle grinding...







Not to bad i don't think!!


----------



## hoyt1941

I am making this press and I need to know the plate size. I was going to use 2" x 4" 3/8" thick. How far up the plate is the pipe hole centered and what size drill did you use for the holes?


----------



## Race59

*Dimensions*



hoyt1941 said:


> I am making this press and I need to know the plate size. I was going to use 2" x 4" 3/8" thick. How far up the plate is the pipe hole centered and what size drill did you use for the holes?


I posted a diagram with dimensions for the press fingers on page five, post # 172.

I know its gotten kind of long, but you'll find a lot of good information and ideas posted by a lot of innovative AT members if you'll take the time to read or skim through this whole thread.

Good luck with your press.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed their input, ideas, and photos to this thread, I appreciate it and I'm sure a lot of others do as well.


----------



## Liviu

Neuralgia said:


> I'm wanting, after finishing mine, to modify a bit the clamps, to have more travel, so you could change your limbs or whatever you may need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You would have to ask someone to build for you a new thread, and somehitng to avoid the thread from bending/twisting.


Hello everybody,


I've seen a lot of posts mentioning a longer travel for total relaxing of the bow.

There might be a simple way of achieveing it, without the need of machining a longer screw, so please allow me to put forth another ideea.










Looking at the above image, let's call the three cast iron pieces (looking from left to right): TailStop, SlidingStop and HeadStop.

Now consider something like a collet attached to the SlidingStop (behind it), that can be safely secured to the pipe with a setscrew or two.

STEP1 
Once you remove the cables and strings from the bow, you start releasing the clamp. SlidingStop+collet moves toward HeadStop (the collet is loose) until you reach the end of travel.

STEP2
Lock the collet in place, release the HeadStop (keep it that way) and start "clamping" motion again.
The HeadStop is going to move backward as the SlidingStop/Collet are locked. Once you reach the end of travel, lock the HeadStop and release the collet.

Now you can proceed back to STEP1 and repeat this cycle until the bow is totally relaxed.

It seems, from the posts that I read, that most of the times it will be used only for short travels (i.e. changing the strings), and only once in a while for limbs removal,
so in the end it won't be such a hassle.

Two caveats:
1) There must be enough pipe length of course for this backward cyclic movement, depending on the size of the bow (I'm trademarking the "moonwalking bow press" definition:zip

2) I can see that there would be backlash in the system (no ball screw here:wink, so in order to prevent any shocks, when the collet or the HeadStop are released, 
the locking action of either must take place just before the "end of travel" point (say half a turn) and than get to actual EOT thus easing the pressure from the other component about to be released.


Regards,
Liviu
P.S. I tried to be as explicit as I could, as english in my second language.


----------



## jim p

I like the idea. You could just drill some holes through the pipe and use a pin as a stop.

I liked the idea of this press so much that I had to make one just to see how it would work. So far it is working great.


----------



## Liviu

jim p said:


> You could just drill some holes through the pipe and use a pin as a stop.


Jim,

That's a very good idea, and exactly what I was thinking about last night, and this morning too. You must have telepathic abilities.

Say, there is a total travel of 6", then all one has to do, is drill 3-4 holes at 5.75" distance measured along the pipe.
Simple, much simpler than the attached collet idea.


----------



## Neuralgia

Hey Race, what are you using to avoid your pipe from rusting?

Remember that here in Costa Rica it pretty humid, an mine just started some minor rusting.

I sand it and voila, but I don't want it to appear again.

Can I use something that won't cause slippage?

Dan from Costa Rica


----------



## Race59

*Wax*



Neuralgia said:


> Hey Race, what are you using to avoid your pipe from rusting?
> 
> Remember that here in Costa Rica it pretty humid, an mine just started some minor rusting.
> 
> I sand it and voila, but I don't want it to appear again.
> 
> Can I use something that won't cause slippage?
> 
> Dan from Costa Rica


I just use the bicycle chain wax on the ¾ inch pipe, mostly on the crank end of course. I think if you put the wax on the whole pipe and thoroughly wiped it off of the sliding end it would help prevent rust. It would probably still protect the metal and fill the pores to help prevent corrosion.

I guess one could also "blue" the pipe like a gun barrel, or use some other finish like that. I believe there is also a "browning" process that was used on older firearms that I'm not really familiar whith.

Humidity isn't really much of an issue for us up here in Montana.... We're quite literally high and dry!!!


----------



## jim p

If you want to let the head stop move along the pipe you must have a handle that can be flipped up and down the fixed handle will hit the pipe and not allow the head stop to be moved down the pipe while operating the handle.

I am thinking about gluing some alignment strips on the fingers so that when I put my bow in the press I don't have to keep looking from end to end to make sure that I have the limbs lined up right in the press.


----------



## gbear

*8 pages now!!*

whodathunkit?:darkbeer:


----------



## Race59

*whodathunkit?*



gbear said:


> whodathunkit?:darkbeer:


Certainly not I!!!!! LOL

However a while back, I build a fancy shmancy labor intensive do everything linear press that I posted on another thread, and guess which press I use 99.9% of the time? That's right, the stupid little pipe clamp bow press. The simple little thing is quite portable, quick and convenient to setup, and works amazingly well.

Thanks to everyone for all the replies. I especially appreciate those who have posted photos of their presses.


----------



## jim p

I really like this press. I am trying to get my bow setup and I just take the press out to the target and press the bow put a few twist in a cable shoot if it is not what I want back in the press. No more back and forth to the shop.


----------



## Race59

*Works for me*



jim p said:


> I really like this press. I am trying to get my bow setup and I just take the press out to the target and press the bow put a few twist in a cable shoot if it is not what I want back in the press. No more back and forth to the shop.


That's just exactly how I use mine as well. Just use the tailgate on my pickup for a workbench and I can make any adjustments on my bow I want in between shots.

Here's the link to my other press, just so everyone knows what I'm comparing to. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1013667


----------



## JMaxH

Hey guys,

How could I fabricate a set of arms on a press like this that will let me compress a Reezen or Mathews Z7? I'm thinking on a new Z7 and need to know how to build arms to let me compress those limbs?


----------



## coonhound0

ArcherAlii said:


> Hey Neuralgia, they call that one the RailWay Bar Clamp. The come in SIZE: 3 FOOT (36 INCH), 4 FOOT (48 INCH), 5 FOOT (60 INCH), 6 FOOT ( 72 INCH), 7 FOOT (84 INCH), 8 FOOT (96 INCH). These are sold out of China. Check out the website-www.flightrigging.com
> 
> Ive been running searchers on T-Bar Clamps, Sash Clams, etc. and it seems that most of the clamps are made in asia or the UK.
> 
> I found the following from www.toughweld.com Its called the Bessey T-Bar Sash Clamp and they are made in the US. This one is kinda pricey at $111. but it looks solid. They are sold in 39", 98" and 120". Check out Bessey's site at www.besseytools.com.


i really like this style of clamp!


----------



## Metrodix

Awesome thread!!

@Race59:
Absolutely great idea!!
Thanks a lot, man!!
I found all the parts in Germany, I builded the press
and it works flawlessly!! with all my bows!

Will post pics, ASAP!!

And, btw, I second that: THREAD OF THE YEAR!!


----------



## Hwy_Man

Race59 said:


> Well, after doing a little thinking and a trip to Harbor Freight this is the result.
> 
> My objective was to come up with something cheap, easy, and effective that most anyone could build themselves.
> 
> The fingers are made of 2"x 1/4" steel with a 1" slot cut. I welded a 1 inch piece of pipe on the crank end because it works a little better with that modification, but isn't absolutely necessary. 1 inch pipe fits pretty dang well over ¾ inch pipe with very little fitting.
> 
> 3/8" vinyl tubing was used to cover the fingers and I used half inch ID radiator hose for stops.
> 
> I made a few other small modifications on the original clamp (just because that's the way I am), but they aren't necessary for function.
> 
> Hope some of you who are bow press challenged find this useful. For a simple and cheap contraption this works surprisingly well.


:thumbs_up


----------



## Race59

*Thanks!*



Metrodix said:


> Awesome thread!!
> 
> @Race59:
> Absolutely great idea!!
> Thanks a lot, man!!
> I found all the parts in Germany, I builded the press
> and it works flawlessly!! with all my bows!
> 
> Will post pics, ASAP!!
> 
> And, btw, I second that: THREAD OF THE YEAR!!


Glad the press is working for you! I'm looking forward to seeing the photos. I'm sure they will be helpful for others wanting to build this type of press as well.

Thanks to everyone for posting and the kind words.


----------



## betterduck

That is pretty nice


----------



## truth2

I just picked up a clamp set at my Harbor Freight on sale for $3.99.











I just have to get the pipe and the fingers made , the drill & tap done and I will have mine done. Thanks for the great idea.


----------



## Neuralgia

WOW, that's incredibly cheap.
Don't let the oportunity go guys


----------



## freediver111

So my bow is currently completely relaxed, with the cams off. Can this press the bow enough to get my new, soon to be arriving cams on? I'm wondering because earlier posts said you couldn't swap limbs, but I don't see why not. 
If you can press a bow, remove cams, strings etc...then why can't you relax the bow to the point of being able to swap limbs???

Edited note: I just noticed why it doesn't work with a relaxed bow....screw is too short!!!
Anyone come up with a solution for that?


----------



## Neuralgia

If you read the whole thread, there are some ideas, one with pics included.

Good Luck.

Dan from Costa Rica


----------



## Jennings

For you Canucks, Princess Auto has these on sale starting tomorrow for $14.99. Should be long enough plus they have the indexed stops. I'll pick up a set.


----------



## biglonglongbow

Man, you just saved yourself a thousand bucks, easy. Good job.


----------



## bengalbrother

*i will buy one of those*

how much would you sell me one for? thanks


----------



## Race59

bengalbrother said:


> how much would you sell me one for? thanks


While I consider it quite an honor that I've had so many people contact me wanting to buy this press it was never my intention to offer it for sale. I initially posted the photos and instructions how to build this press so that fellow archery talk members could build their own.

It really is pretty easy to build , and it works remarkably well considering the price and simplicity of the design.

A lot of people have contributed their ideas and photos of the presses similar to mine that they have built, so there is a lot of information on this thread on how to do it yourself. I for one am very appreciative for everyone's support and effort.


----------



## wanderersmc

If you were to make one of these with a tee in the middle and run a short piece of pipe with a flange so you could bolt it to a bench would it still be as strong ?


----------



## Race59

wanderersmc said:


> If you were to make one of these with a tee in the middle and run a short piece of pipe with a flange so you could bolt it to a bench would it still be as strong ?


Well, the short answer is no, it wouldn't be as strong.

Not saying that it wouldn't work, but it wouldn't be as strong as a continuous piece of pipe. Any time you cut concentric rings (threads) on a piece of material like pipe you're definitely compromising its integrity. I don't have a lot of faith in common cast iron fittings either. If you could find a steel fitting it would definitely be stronger.

Using a clamp, perhaps even hose clamps to attach it to something would be a safer bet.


----------



## fcee

Nice job. How did you get such a nice weld on the pipe? Do you have a rotating fixture?


----------



## Twitch

JMaxH said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> How could I fabricate a set of arms on a press like this that will let me compress a Reezen or Mathews Z7? I'm thinking on a new Z7 and need to know how to build arms to let me compress those limbs?


Read my post several pages back concerning the Reezen.


----------



## glpoe1

Hey Thanks, I was fretting on how I would build the press arms and never even thought about using wood. I have some hardwood pieces that will work perfect and I can modify them easily to press my Mathews, the screws and bracket for the suppressors are in the way. Thanks again.


----------



## treetoppredator

*Sweet*

THis looks alot cheaper and easier.:thumbs_up


----------



## OHRuthunter

*I have been looking*

and I will be off to Harbor Freight tomorrow. Thanks.


----------



## frasermark

*nw bow press I love it!!!*

Looks like Im going to Harbor Freight the next morning I have a day off


----------



## Dbows

Great idea!


----------



## kzz1king

I can't believe I have missed this. Gotta make me one. Thanks


----------



## ToxArch1

*My $20 Bow Press (for AUD$70)*

Here's my version based on a T-Bar clamp. I actually had to buy 2 so I could use the screw off both. This way, I can press the bow using the right hand clamp, and then un-press the bow to change limbs using the right and left hand clamps.

I mounted it on a folding metal saw horse. I bought a pair of these from ALDI for $25.

I used the other one for a vise and arrow saw.

Thanks Race


----------



## Race59

*Thanks to everyone!!!*



fcee said:


> Nice job. How did you get such a nice weld on the pipe? Do you have a rotating fixture?



No, I don't have a rotating fixture. Long ago I got in the habit of grinding every most every weld I do, especially on small pieces. I'm pretty picky, and if the part doesn't look like it came out of a mold I'm not happy. 




ToxArch1 said:


> Here's my version based on a T-Bar clamp. I actually had to buy 2 so I could use the screw off both. This way, I can press the bow using the right hand clamp, and then un-press the bow to change limbs using the right and left hand clamps.
> 
> I mounted it on a folding metal saw horse. I bought a pair of these from ALDI for $25.
> 
> I used the other one for a vise and arrow saw.
> 
> Thanks Race


That's a really nice setup that you built. Looks like it should be quite versatile. I really like those type of clamps, but they seem to be hard to find here in the U.S.. 

You did a great job!!! Thanks for posting the photos!!!


----------



## Welky

I bought a T-bar style clamp as well and made my own press. I hadn't used it much until I put some new B2 strings on my bow last week. It was absolutely aewsome in pressing my Moneymaker to put a twist here or there on the strings. Thanks so much for the idea and basic plans!


----------



## BobE39

I really like this bow press, what a great idea! I just had to build one. I do not expect to take the bow all the way down again, but just in case I went with the option to put the holes in the pipe so you can let the bow down to replace the limbs or “weld the riser” as you can see in the picture. The only modifications I made was removing the pipe thread from the clamp, removing the handle from the screw and replacing it with a nut that is pinned and drilling the ¼” holes in the pipe spaced 1 ¾” apart.

The press works great.

I like the brain storming on this thread.


----------



## westpadeadeye

*I would pay someone to make me one of these*

I just dont have the know how and time...If someone wants to make a couple bucks send me a pm..

thanks
larry


----------



## Archer917

*Thank You Super Job:smile:*


----------



## 1955

I'm new to archery, but I would like to eventually work on my own bow. After seeing this thread, all I can say is WOW, what a perfectly simple way to solve a problem. After reading the first 80 posts, I went to the last page and I'm glad I did. I don't have access to a welder, but I have a full on woodworking shop in my garage...I must have a dozen or so pipe clamps already. All mine are Jorgensen brand though, they may be twice as much, but they're still cheap and of great quality...I've NEVER had one slip. They work best with black pipe, but not so well with galvanized (too soft).

I love seeing that some have used wood to make the limb holders, now I may be able to make myself a bow press!!!

To "Race59"...greatest post ever!

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## hawk45

Building mine tonight... quick question, I'm using 1/2" red oak and going to double it up at both ends to make it 1" thick on each side. My question is about the grain.. if I cut it with the grain horizontal as opposed to vertical, will it still be strong enough?


----------



## 1955

hawk45 said:


> Building mine tonight... quick question, I'm using 1/2" red oak and going to double it up at both ends to make it 1" thick on each side. My question is about the grain.. if I cut it with the grain horizontal as opposed to vertical, will it still be strong enough?


When the stand is on the bench and ready to use, the grain of the wood should run vertical. If it ran horizontal it will very likely snap where it raises above the clamp.

I just got out the wood and clamp and I'm going to make mine in the morning.

PS. Be sure and glue the two faces together.


----------



## 1955

Here's a few pictures of my bowpress. I made it this morning in about 2 hours, the only thing I had to buy was the 8 stove bolts, everything else was lying around.

So, total cost was about three dollars.


























I brought it to my local shop this morning to show them...I don't think that they felt too threatened.:wink:


----------



## Race59

*Thanks to everyone who has posted!!!*



BobE39 said:


> I really like this bow press, what a great idea! I just had to build one. I do not expect to take the bow all the way down again, but just in case I went with the option to put the holes in the pipe so you can let the bow down to replace the limbs or “weld the riser” as you can see in the picture. The only modifications I made was removing the pipe thread from the clamp, removing the handle from the screw and replacing it with a nut that is pinned and drilling the ¼” holes in the pipe spaced 1 ¾” apart.
> 
> The press works great.
> 
> I like the brain storming on this thread.


That's a very clever idea to remove the threads on the clamp like that, I hadn't thought of that. I had thought about using the "inch worm method" to increase the travel of the press, but not quite as simply as you achieved the same results.

I wonder if you could drill the holes in the clamp itself to eliminate any possibility of the clamp rotating while you were "inch worming" the press to change limbs etc.?

As for the brainstorming, as far as I'm concerned that's what this thread is all about.... Coming up with the best solution to solve a problem.




1955 said:


> Here's a few pictures of my bowpress. I made it this morning in about 2 hours, the only thing I had to buy was the 8 stove bolts, everything else was lying around.
> 
> So, total cost was about three dollars.
> 
> I brought it to my local shop this morning to show them...I don't think that they felt too threatened.:wink:


That's definitely one of the nicest looking wooden presses posted on here. It's very helpful that you posted photos, I really appreciate it.

As for your local shops impression, I was unaware that we needed to im*press* anybody!!! The thing works and it works well, that's all that matters!!!

Quite frankly, I've been a little underwhelmed with the skills and abilities of the local shops around here. On a couple different occasions they've pretty much messed up my stuff, along with a couple of my friends bows as well. And that's one of the major reasons I decided I needed my own press, that and convenience of course. The local shops arn't open 24-7, but my shop is!!!!!


----------



## 1955

Race59 said:


> That's definitely one of the nicest looking wooden presses posted on here. It's very helpful that you posted photos, I really appreciate it.
> 
> As for your local shops impression, I was unaware that we needed to im*press* anybody!!! The thing works and it works well, that's all that matters!!!
> 
> Quite frankly, I've been a little underwhelmed with the skills and abilities of the local shops around here. On a couple different occasions they've pretty much messed up my stuff, along with a couple of my friends bows as well. And that's one of the major reasons I decided I needed my own press, that and convenience of course. The local shops arn't open 24-7, but my shop is!!!!!


Thanks for the kind words...just a little more work is needed on the press. I need to cut a deeper shelf for the limbs to sit on...I found out that since they're so shallow, I have to hold the bow until there's good contact. If the shelf is cut deeper, the bow can just rest on them until you tighten up the press. Otherwise is was an easy project for me (I do have a full on woodworking shop) and fun to do.

As far as the shop not being threatened, well that was more of a joke...as if I would take business away from them.:wink: At this point, I don't have the slightest clue as to how to even begin to work on my own bow, so the press was more of just something to do that might come in handy in the future.

Your design was so elegant and simple that I was only trying to get the same results out of wood...kind of standing on the shoulders of giants.


----------



## Gene1

What type of wood are you using and what size? I see some has glued 2 pieces together to make it thicker. Do I make both sides the same? I have the Tubrohawk XTR cams. I've read some had problems with the string stops and had to remove them. Can someone explain that.

Thanks


----------



## 1955

Gene1 said:


> What type of wood are you using and what size? I see some has glued 2 pieces together to make it thicker. Do I make both sides the same? I have the Tubrohawk XTR cams. I've read some had problems with the string stops and had to remove them. Can someone explain that.
> 
> Thanks


I used some 8/4 (1 3/4" thick) cherry that I had lying around. Both sides are identical, except for the bolt hole pattern, and are 7.5" H x 4" W x 1.75 D each.
Any kind of hardwood could be used and I'm sure some people are gluing two pieces together because 8/4 can only be found at a lumber yard and not at the local Home Depot.

I'm not sure about the Turbohawk...sorry.


----------



## B529

Race59,

I just recently purchased my first bow and I am looking for a press. I'm a hands on guy. Looking forward to doing my own tuning and gaining a clear understanding how things work. 

I'll copy your elegant, simple bow press design. You mentioned you would shorten the length of the fingers if you built it again, what length would you go with?

I'll post some pictures when I'm finished. 

Thanks, Kevin


----------



## Race59

*Thanks*



B529 said:


> Race59,
> 
> I just recently purchased my first bow and I am looking for a press. I'm a hands on guy. Looking forward to doing my own tuning and gaining a clear understanding how things work.
> 
> I'll copy your elegant, simple bow press design. You mentioned you would shorten the length of the fingers if you built it again, what length would you go with?
> 
> I'll post some pictures when I'm finished.
> 
> Thanks, Kevin


You know, in retrospect the length of the fingers is probably about right. 

There have been quite a few posts on other threads about people saying that the fingers on their bow press were almost too short to press some of the bows with larger cams. 

I guess my original thoughts were that the fingers were more than long enough to press any bow that I have, and that shorter fingers would be stronger and produce less "leverage" on the pipe and pipe clamps, resulting in a straighter "push".

One nice thing about using the hose stoppers around the fingers is that while they don't move too easily they can be positioned to accommodate different size cams. The downside is that it makes the opening a little narrower, but not narrow enough to interfere with anything I've encountered yet.

I haven't had the opportunity to try this press on a lot of different bows, but I haven't encountered any problems with any bow that I needed to press.
I suppose ideally one could have a different set of fingers for every different type of limb and cam configuration, but that probably isn't very realistic.

I really look forward to seeing the photos of your completed press. I really appreciate it when people contribute their ideas and photos to this thread. There have been a lot of good ideas posted here, not just mine.

And thanks for your kind words, not sure I deserve all this praise. I never dreamed this thread would go this far.


----------



## orblacktail

I might have to make one of these


----------



## dennykyser

Great Press Ideas


----------



## Gene1

At first I was just looking for info, but now after I doing my own center serving and making my own loop (read here on AT )since I burned the D-loop string too short (lol). Since I removed the old center serving the peep was very noticable off by a little more than 90deg. Instead of bring it to the shop for them to twist the string, I'll like to do it myself. 

Would you shorten the string or lenghten the string when twisting the string for the peep. About how many turns would would you need?

Thanks,


----------



## Gene1

Which clamp would be best? What is the length you need to screw in to press the bow?

1) 1/2" pipe clamp
2) 3/4" pipe clamp
3) T-clamp 

#3 has the longest screw.

Thanks


----------



## Gene1

Forgot picture.


----------



## Race59

*None of the above*



Gene1 said:


> At first I was just looking for info, but now after I doing my own center serving and making my own loop (read here on AT )since I burned the D-loop string too short (lol). Since I removed the old center serving the peep was very noticable off by a little more than 90deg. Instead of bring it to the shop for them to twist the string, I'll like to do it myself.
> 
> Would you shorten the string or lenghten the string when twisting the string for the peep. About how many turns would would you need?
> 
> Thanks,


I'm not sure I understand your question completely, I believe you're asking about correcting a rotated peep sight?

Well, I definitely am not a tuning expert but have encountered the problem of the rotating peep sight myself and will share a few things I've tried to correct the situation.

In my experience any time you mess with your string you can have problems with your peep sight and may need to realign it.

If I'm understanding your problem correctly, the first thing I would do is go out and shoot a few dozen times at close range so you don't miss the target with that poorly aligned peep, and see where it settles out. If that takes care of the problem great, if not you have a bit more work to do.

If the peep is off 180° when you finish with that, simply remove the sight and replace it the opposite direction. If you're only off a tiny bit sometimes that can be corrected by rotating the D-loop and "training" the string by physically rotating it by hand to the proper direction.

If none of this works the next step for me is to slightly press the bow, just enough to remove the string and give it ½ twist in the direction I believe will help the problem and then shoot the bow another dozen or so times and see where that settles out. You may need to repeat these steps a few times until you get the results you want.

If you do a search on AT you can probably come up some better advice than I can give you. There are a lot of people on this web site that are a whole lot more knowledgeable than I am, but these are the steps I've taken in the past that have worked for me.

If anyone has any more advice feel free to jump in. 



Gene1 said:


> Which clamp would be best? What is the length you need to screw in to press the bow?
> 
> 1) 1/2" pipe clamp
> 2) 3/4" pipe clamp
> 3) T-clamp
> 
> #3 has the longest screw.
> 
> Thanks


I'm sorry, but I can really advise you in good conscience to use any of the clamps that you have posted photos of.

1) Don't think 1/2" pipe is adequate for the job at hand. You might get by with it, but I wouldn't try it.

2) It would be pretty difficult to attach the fingers to that style of clamp. I know it could be done, and I know I could do it, but I don't think it would be worth the effort involved. That clamp doesn't have the portion that the fingers attach to on the screw end. You'd have to build that from scratch.

3) That thing is an antique!!! Seriously, that might be and probably is a better clamp than anything we can buy today, but you'd have to look it over very carefully and make sure it is in perfect working order. I can't tell that from photographs. The locking mechanism on the sliding end might not be the best for a bow press application, not sure.

A new clamp would only cost you probably 8 to 15 dollars, depending on where you get it and if you have to pay shipping, but I think that would be your best bet. I'm not sure betting your bow against something that might work and something that we know works is a bet I would want to take.

Don't want to discourage you, but I would feel a whole lot more comfortable if you would buy a new clamp and go from there.


----------



## 1955

Of those three, I think that the 1/2" pipe would work the best, the other two might be too hard to work with. Despite some people's doubts that even the 3/4" clamps might not hold, they're almost overkill...1/2" should work fine. Just follow Race's plans or make them out of wood, depending on the equipment you have lying around.

Let me know if you need more info.


----------



## 1955

Race59 said:


> I'm sorry, but I can really advise you in good conscience to use any of the clamps that you have posted photos of.
> 
> 1) Don't think 1/2" pipe is adequate for the job at hand. You might get by with it, but I wouldn't try it.


I've used 1/2" pipe clamps for many years on woodworking projects and my hand strength will always runs out before they slip, and I've never been able to make them slip. The tighter you clamp them, the tighter the three pals grip and the more they hold. The only real reason to use 3/4" instead of 1/2" is that the 3/4" pipe will not deflect as much.



Race59 said:


> 2) It would be pretty difficult to attach the fingers to that style of clamp. I know it could be done, and I know I could do it, but I don't think it would be worth the effort involved. That clamp doesn't have the portion that the fingers attach to on the screw end. You'd have to build that from scratch.


Agreed.



Race59 said:


> 3) That thing is an antique!!! Seriously, that might be and probably is a better clamp than anything we can buy today, but you'd have to look it over very carefully and make sure it is in perfect working order. I can't tell that from photographs. The locking mechanism on the sliding end might not be the best for a bow press application, not sure.


Agreed.



Race59 said:


> A new clamp would only cost you probably 8 to 15 dollars, depending on where you get it and if you have to pay shipping, but I think that would be your best bet. I'm not sure betting your bow against something that might work and something that we know works is a bet I would want to take.
> 
> Don't want to discourage you, but I would feel a whole lot more comfortable if you would buy a new clamp and go from there.


Agreed.


----------



## Race59

1955 said:


> I've used 1/2" pipe clamps for many years on woodworking projects and my hand strength will always runs out before they slip, and I've never been able to make them slip. The tighter you clamp them, the tighter the three pals grip and the more they hold. The only real reason to use 3/4" instead of 1/2" is that the 3/4" pipe will not deflect as much.


You're right, half inch pipe would have plenty of tensile strength, heck you could probably tow a truck with it, provided it didn't kink. As you say it's the deflection or stiffness that would worry me. Plus, one thing I didn't mention is that it could be difficult to attach the fingers to the smaller half inch pipe clamp clamping surfaces.... Probably a lot smaller area to work with.

Thanks for replying


----------



## dennykyser

Would this clamp work, I have a few of these. I will only be using the press for installing peeps and twisting string to fix peep rotation. I am not sure if this would have enough travel or not.


----------



## jim p

1955. I like your idea of using wood because it is so much easier to work with. Since you have so much experience with wood working I want to ask you a few questions.

1. What kind of wood would be the strongest for this application?
2. What is the minimum thickness of the wooden fingers that you could use?
3. Does the wood try to bind on the pipe when you press your bow?
4. Does the thickness of the wood get in the way when taking the strings off?
5. Are there any more questions that I need to be asking?


----------



## 1955

dennykyser said:


> Would this clamp work, I have a few of these. I will only be using the press for installing peeps and twisting string to fix peep rotation. I am not sure if this would have enough travel or not.


These are the best clamps for woodworking, but I'd have an issue with using a 50 dollar clamp when you can go to the Home Depot and the a length of black pipe and the clamp for under 20 bucks. And the other concern is what you mentioned...the length of travel. I haven't measured mine, but I'd guess that they are less than an inch, which may or may not be enough. It also looks like it might be next to impossible to mount the wood or steel pals to the side with the handle.

All in all, I think that using a pipe clamp would be easier to do, much cheaper and work better in the end.


----------



## 1955

jim p said:


> 1955. I like your idea of using wood because it is so much easier to work with. Since you have so much experience with wood working I want to ask you a few questions.
> 
> 1. What kind of wood would be the strongest for this application?
> 
> I believe that most any hardwood would work fine...maple, oak, cherry (what mine is made of) birch, ash...any of the common hardwoods available here in the USA
> 
> 2. What is the minimum thickness of the wooden fingers that you could use?
> 
> I'm not an engineer, so I'd hate to guesstimate on the minimum thickness that would be acceptable. I've got a lot of scrap cherry lying around in varying thicknesses, and had an 8/4 end cutoff that was perfect to get both pieces out of, so I went with that. I've seen that some here have done theirs in as small as 4/4...I just don't think I would go as thin as that.
> 
> 3. Does the wood try to bind on the pipe when you press your bow?
> 
> The pipe is about an 1 1/16" thick and I used a 1 1/8" drill bit...so no, it does not bind.
> 
> 4. Does the thickness of the wood get in the way when taking the strings off?
> 
> In truth, i haven't used it yet to do any work on a bow, but the space where the cams sit is 7/8" wide and I'm able to reach around in there, so I don't think that it would be an issue
> 
> 5. Are there any more questions that I need to be asking?
> 
> I think that you covered it, now go build one and post pictures of the finished press!!!


Have fun and feel free to PM me if you have any issues!


----------



## Top Gauge

1955,

One last question for you about your press. How did you get the nice curves on the edge of your wooden fingers? Did you profile them with a router or just use a belt sander?


----------



## Gene1

After looking at my clamps,
#1 I figure the 1/2" pipe will bend.
#2 THere is no place for me to drill to mount the fingers
I though only #3 was the best solution out of the 3. The locking is a noch that clips in on the bar. I have 3 of those clamps. After looking closer at them one of the three clamps the locking clip has dent due to presure or abuse. I figure better to be safe than sorry on using these clamps.

Thanka to all.

I hate to ask this on a DYI thread, what about the Bowmaster Portable Bow Press. It's all done ?

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/product_info.php?cPath=46_465&products_id=2118


----------



## Race59

Gene1 said:


> After looking at my clamps,
> #1 I figure the 1/2" pipe will bend.
> #2 THere is no place for me to drill to mount the fingers
> I though only #3 was the best solution out of the 3. The locking is a noch that clips in on the bar. I have 3 of those clamps. After looking closer at them one of the three clamps the locking clip has dent due to presure or abuse. I figure better to be safe than sorry on using these clamps.
> 
> Thanka to all.
> 
> I hate to ask this on a DYI thread, what about the Bowmaster Portable Bow Press. It's all done ?
> 
> http://www.lancasterarchery.com/product_info.php?cPath=46_465&products_id=2118


This is as good a place as any to ask, most everyone here is happy to help any way they can.

While I have no experience with the Bowmaster, a lot of people seem to be perfectly happy using it. With your bow, which appears to be a Hoyt Turbohawk I believe you'll also need the split limb adapters to go with it. There are several other portable press available as well. You might want to search the forums to read others' opinions and experiences with portable presses.

I didn't mean to be overly negative about the clamp options that you offered, but I would hate to see someone get hurt or damage their equipment over a couple of dollars. Provided its long enough, you already have a chunk of ¾ inch pipe, all you would need would be a suitable ¾ inch pipe clamp and some metal or wood for the fingers. That along with a little ingenuity and you'll be good to go.

Good luck with whatever you decide.


----------



## 1955

Top Gauge said:


> 1955,
> 
> One last question for you about your press. How did you get the nice curves on the edge of your wooden fingers? Did you profile them with a router or just use a belt sander?


I used a router, set up in a table...it's always set up to use, just stick in the bit that I want and I'm off and running. But you could use a belt sander also.


----------



## jim p

1955, I have already built one out of steel. I was pumping you for information incase some of the other fellows around here were interested in making one. If there is such a thing as a high quality plywood this would probably be a good choice of wood because the grain would be going in several directions.

I was asking about the binding on the pipe because when I made my steel fingers they would bind on the pipe until I welded a pipe onto the fingers like Race59 had shown.

Thanks for your help.


----------



## 1955

jim p said:


> 1955, I have already built one out of steel. I was pumping you for information incase some of the other fellows around here were interested in making one. If there is such a thing as a high quality plywood this would probably be a good choice of wood because the grain would be going in several directions.
> 
> I was asking about the binding on the pipe because when I made my steel fingers they would bind on the pipe until I welded a pipe onto the fingers like Race59 had shown.
> 
> Thanks for your help.


I would not use plywood, not even a high grade cabinet plywood. Plywood's strength is in it's ability to save you money. Where strength is needed, it's always braced in some way...ribs on a boat, spars on a airplane, studs in a wall...etc. The fact that the grain runs back and forth, 90 degrees to each other weakens it for the needs of the bow press. The fact that the grain in a chosen hardwood runs in one direction only, makes it ideal for our needs. Running the grain vertically (when the press is at ready on a bench) uses the wood's strength to it's fullest. I have a wood shop, but one is NOT needed to make this press with wood. I would think that more people had better access to tools that will handle wood than steel.

Since I made the holes in the wood a sixteenth of an inch larger than the pipe, they don't come in contact with the pipe at all. I've had no binding problem...of course, I read all of Race's tips and waxed the pipe before trying it for the first time.


----------



## jim p

Ok. 

Thanks again for the advise.


----------



## Top Gauge

1955,

Thanks for replying about the router. I have a small router table that I have not set up yet and this gives me a good reason to get it up and going.


----------



## Top Gauge

Jennings,

Did you ever get the bar clamp from Princess Auto? And if so how did it work out for you?


----------



## Gene1

*Clamps*

Just to double check. Attached is a close up of the #3 clamp. It has a notch to lock inplace the slider. I can even attach a C-clamp on the bar just incase it slips. What do you think?


I have a wall of clamps and I can't use any of them. I guess when I got them it was only for wood work.


----------



## dustyvarmint

*$20 Press DIY Tutorial*

Folks,

I've posted a DIY Tutorial on Race59's $20 Press on my blog.

You can find it here - *DIY $25 Bow Press*.

I added $5 to the cost based on the maximum price from my shopping efforts. 

I'd very much appreciate your comments both on the blog and here for ways to make the instructions easier to follow - my writing style can be stiff and hard to follow (20 years of Navy Training, SIR!)

happy pressing, dv


----------



## dennykyser

Great Tutorial, I am going to have to try this before I buy one. Do you have any binding issues?


----------



## dustyvarmint

dennykyser said:


> Great Tutorial, I am going to have to try this before I buy one. Do you have any binding issues?


Not with the grease .

good luck, dv


----------



## 1955

dustyvarmint said:


> Folks,
> 
> I've posted a DIY Tutorial on Race59's $20 Press on my blog.
> 
> You can find it here - *DIY $25 Bow Press*.
> 
> I added $5 to the cost based on the maximum price from my shopping efforts.
> 
> I'd very much appreciate your comments both on the blog and here for ways to make the instructions easier to follow - my writing style can be stiff and hard to follow (20 years of Navy Training, SIR!)
> 
> happy pressing, dv


Well written, with easy to follow directions!

What kind of wood did you use? My guess is hickory?


----------



## Gene1

Nice write up!


----------



## dustyvarmint

1955 said:


> Well written, with easy to follow directions!
> 
> What kind of wood did you use? My guess is hickory?


That is "ipe". A South American hardwood often used for high-end decking, but I have a buddy who works at a place that makes golf course fixtures out of it for places like Dubai, UAE where they have more money than camels... Been there, hated it!

He gives me lots of cut offs. It is HARD and I'm told it has a fire rating similar to steel. Hard to believe, but I never tried it.

happy hunting, dv


----------



## 1955

dustyvarmint said:


> That is "ipe". A South American hardwood often used for high-end decking, but I have a buddy who works at a place that makes golf course fixtures out of it for places like Dubai, UAE where they have more money than camels... Been there, hated it!
> 
> He gives me lots of cut offs. It is HARD and I'm told it has a fire rating similar to steel. Hard to believe, but I never tried it.
> 
> happy hunting, dv


Ok, I was trying to match it up with a N American hardwood. Ipe is used all over the place now, from decking to park benches...VERY hard and durable! It's kind of the new (Honduran) Mahogany.


----------



## Race59

*WOW, 10 pages of this stuff!!!*

Never thought this would stay on the forum for this long!!!




dustyvarmint said:


> Folks,
> 
> I've posted a DIY Tutorial on Race59's $20 Press on my blog.
> 
> You can find it here - *DIY $25 Bow Press*.
> 
> I added $5 to the cost based on the maximum price from my shopping efforts.
> 
> I'd very much appreciate your comments both on the blog and here for ways to make the instructions easier to follow - my writing style can be stiff and hard to follow (20 years of Navy Training, SIR!)
> 
> happy pressing, dv



Thanks for producing the DIY Tutorial. It should be very helpful for people wanting to build this type of press using wood fingers. I hope you have much success with your website. I think all the "hands on" type archery people should check it out.... A lot of good information there.



I'm glad that so many people have contributed their thoughts, photos, and ideas to this thread. Quite frankly when I first posted this simple little press I wasn't so sure how it would be received. Truthfully, I was anticipating at least some negative responses, but I've been pleasantly surprised and pleased with all the positive comments and helpful contributions.

Looking back from the beginning, it's kind of interesting how it's evolved from a "will that work?" to a "how can we make it work better?" type of thread. In my opinion the do yourself forum is the best and most helpful and civilized section of this whole website. I'm very happy I was able to make a small contribution to this forum.


----------



## Gene1

Yes, there is lots of information here. I think I'm spending too much time here lol. Today I got a piece of hardwood from a cabinet shop. Only 3/4" but I will glue them together. Cant' wait to get started on this press. Got to go to HD tomorrow for the clamps.


----------



## Gene1

*Which of these 2 clamps would be better?*

Pony or Bessey?

Pony has a 1/8" longer handle and weight 2lb 7oz.
Face of clamp is about 1/16" thicker.

The Bessey has a wide base stand came with rubber/plastic sleeve for clamping wood and weights 2lb 12.3oz.

Both have the same compress length, face of clamp about the same.

Not sure which way to go, wider base which is real nice or 1/16" thicker on the face clamp.

Help.


----------



## Race59

*Pony or Bessey?*



Gene1 said:


> Pony or Bessey?
> 
> Pony has a 1/8" longer handle and weight 2lb 7oz.
> Face of clamp is about 1/16" thicker.
> 
> The Bessey has a wide base stand came with rubber/plastic sleeve for clamping wood and weights 2lb 12.3oz.
> 
> Both have the same compress length, face of clamp about the same.
> 
> Not sure which way to go, wider base which is real nice or 1/16" thicker on the face clamp.
> 
> Help.


I believe I would go with the Bessey just because it has the wider base. Both are plenty stout. Getting a new clamp was a good decision, I would really hate to see someone get hurt or damaged their equipment by using something that was marginal. 

Glad to see you're making progress with your project.


----------



## Gene1

I chosed the Pony clamp. With the 3/4" kindoff clamp the spacing was just right and is more stable than just the legs on the Bessey. Well I just finished my bow press. It took a few hours to build and to just use it for 2 minutes to adjust and twist the string. Priceless

No binding at all when depressing the bow. No grease or anything (knock on wood). With the one bar clamped to the table this was soild. I could not find any additional kindoff camps of the correct size to use on both ends. It was not needed anway. 

This project was an all DIY including the DIY table saw.

Thanks to all who help with this great project.


----------



## 1955

Gene1 said:


> I chosed the Pony clamp. With the 3/4" kindoff clamp the spacing was just right and is more stable than just the legs on the Bessey. Well I just finished my bow press. It took a few hours to build and to just use it for 2 minutes to adjust and twist the string. Priceless
> 
> No binding at all when depressing the bow. No grease or anything (knock on wood). With the one bar clamped to the table this was soild. I could not find any additional kindoff camps of the correct size to use on both ends. It was not needed anway.
> 
> This project was an all DIY *including the DIY table saw*.
> 
> Thanks to all who help with this great project.


That's awesome! Great job...*and you lived to tell us about it*!:wink:


----------



## Gene1

I know it's not safe:zip:, a table saw will not fit in my house, what can you do with limited space  and you need to make a BOW PRESS :wink:.


----------



## jrip

Race59 said:


> I think people get a little too concerned about how much pressure is required to press a bow.
> 
> This device has absolutely no problem pressing any of my bows it 70 plus pounds. I'm sure it would have enough power to "crush" any bow made.
> 
> The biggest shortcoming I see with using this pipe clamp setup is that I don't believe it has enough travel to change limbs, but that's not something one does every day anyhow.


Im sure this bow press weighs around 10# and would be a great portable press for changing strings or peep sights etc. Not to mention a great aid in tuning almost any bow. For complete tear downs you would need more but 99% of AT'ers would wet their pants at the thought of completely breaking down their bow.

Good job on the press.


----------



## 1955

Gene1 said:


> I know it's not safe:zip:, a table saw will not fit in my house, what can you do with limited space  and you need to make a BOW PRESS :wink:.


I know, you do what you have to do. I'm spoiled to have a cabinet saw (and every other woodworking tool) in my garage to use when ever I need it. What are you going to do, you gotta build the press and you made it work...and lived!


----------



## monster27

*great idea.*

where do i get those steel finger pieces??? thanks for saving me a few bucks.


----------



## shortarrow

*wow*

holy smokes dude. you should get a patent on that. i wouldn't be surprised if some company doesn't come out with something alsmost identical. i would easily pay ya $100.00 for one!


----------



## john5mt

These pipe clamps have a little more travel in the screws and they come on and off the end of a pipe without having to screw it on. 

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-224134-Quick-Grip-4-Inch-Clamp/dp/B0000CCXVO

Besides the feet are a lot bigger too. 

Great idea 

I would thing the only thing to add is something or someone to angle the surfaces a little so it doesnt slide up when the pressure is put against it. Your rubber on the ends is good. Maybe putting something with a little more grip on it is all you would really need. The pockets Gene put in his are kind of what i am thinking about.


----------



## john5mt

Couldnt you use a high lift jack with a similar fork attached to replace the cams?

then you would have unlimited travel forward and back 

http://www.hi-lift.com/index.html


----------



## Gene1

A couple things wrong with the High Lift Jack for a bow press. It is a nice jack.

1) The ratch is too much of a jump between clicks.
2) The jack itself as is now only spread between the floor and jack lip unless you get the attachment for the top.
3) The ratch handle will be on the table if you lay it flat. Will need to create a stand or offset to just this on a table.
4) It's 30lbs
5) Cost??


----------



## dustyvarmint

Gene1 said:


> I chosed the Pony clamp. With the 3/4" kindoff clamp the spacing was just right and is more stable than just the legs on the Bessey. Well I just finished my bow press. It took a few hours to build and to just use it for 2 minutes to adjust and twist the string. Priceless
> 
> No binding at all when depressing the bow. No grease or anything (knock on wood). With the one bar clamped to the table this was soild. I could not find any additional kindoff camps of the correct size to use on both ends. It was not needed anway.
> 
> This project was an all DIY including the DIY table saw.
> 
> Thanks to all who help with this great project.


I like your center clamp and your table saw. 

Nice work, dv


----------



## Gene1

Thanks


----------



## Race59

*Nice job!!*



Gene1 said:


> I chosed the Pony clamp. With the 3/4" kindoff clamp the spacing was just right and is more stable than just the legs on the Bessey. Well I just finished my bow press. It took a few hours to build and to just use it for 2 minutes to adjust and twist the string. Priceless
> 
> No binding at all when depressing the bow. No grease or anything (knock on wood). With the one bar clamped to the table this was soild. I could not find any additional kindoff camps of the correct size to use on both ends. It was not needed anway.
> 
> This project was an all DIY including the DIY table saw.
> 
> Thanks to all who help with this great project.


That's a nice looking press Gene, good job!!!

Thanks for posting photos!


----------



## dorning3

here is mine, not one problem. all i had to buy was the clamp built the rest. presses my 73lbs bow with no problem. THANKS FOR THE IDEA(it only took thirty minutes to build)


----------



## jim p

I needed to take my bow completely apart today. So I took my pipe and drilled 1/4" holes all the way through the pipe on a spacing of 1 1/4". Then I took the handle off of the screw and found a socket that I could drive on the end of the screw. I put the bow in the press with the screw end of the clamps toward the center of the pipe. I pressed the bow and took the string and cable off. Then I started letting the pressure off the limbs. When the front part of the screw came close to a hole I would drop an allen wrench in the hole and keep unpressing the bow until the part holding the fingers hit the allen wrench and stopped. Now I would hold the locking fingers and screw the back part of the clamp toward the hole with the allen wrench. Once I was close to the allen wrench I would release the fingers and start to press the bow. This would take the pressure off the allen wrench and I would remove the wrench and then start unpressing the bow to the next hole and repeat the process. It worked like a charm and I was able to completely relax the bow and then take it apart for maintenance.

Putting the bow back together and pressing was just a reversal of the above process.

So this press can be used to completely take a bow apart.

I love the press and I will always be thankful for Race59 sharing his idea with me.


----------



## 1955

jim p said:


> I needed to take my bow completely apart today. So I took my pipe and drilled 1/4" holes all the way through the pipe on a spacing of 1 1/4". Then I took the handle off of the screw and found a socket that I could drive on the end of the screw. I put the bow in the press with the screw end of the clamps toward the center of the pipe. I pressed the bow and took the string and cable off. Then I started letting the pressure off the limbs. When the front part of the screw came close to a hole I would drop an allen wrench in the hole and keep unpressing the bow until the part holding the fingers hit the allen wrench and stopped. Now I would hold the locking fingers and screw the back part of the clamp toward the hole with the allen wrench. Once I was close to the allen wrench I would release the fingers and start to press the bow. This would take the pressure off the allen wrench and I would remove the wrench and then start unpressing the bow to the next hole and repeat the process. It worked like a charm and I was able to completely relax the bow and then take it apart for maintenance.
> 
> Putting the bow back together and pressing was just a reversal of the above process.
> 
> So this press can be used to completely take a bow apart.
> 
> I love the press and I will always be thankful for Race59 sharing his idea with me.


Would it be possible for you to post some pictures? I sounds like you've got something here and maybe it's just late, but I can't picture in my mind how this works.


----------



## Race59

*Thanks*



Gene1 said:


> A couple things wrong with the High Lift Jack for a bow press. It is a nice jack.
> 
> 1) The ratch is too much of a jump between clicks.
> 2) The jack itself as is now only spread between the floor and jack lip unless you get the attachment for the top.
> 3) The ratch handle will be on the table if you lay it flat. Will need to create a stand or offset to just this on a table.
> 4) It's 30lbs
> 5) Cost??


Gene pretty much sums this up. It doesn't take very much movement to press a bow. Any travel beyond the absolute minimum it takes to relax your string and cables to remove them, or just relax the string enough to tie in a peep sight etc. Is a waste and could be potentially damaging to your bow.





dorning3 said:


> here is mine, not one problem. all i had to buy was the clamp built the rest. presses my 73lbs bow with no problem. THANKS FOR THE IDEA(it only took thirty minutes to build)



Thank you for posting the photos of your press. I'm sure thay will be helpful to others wanting to build this.

That's pretty close to my first generation pipe clamp bow press. The only difference being that I used vinyl tubing to cover my fingers and the heater hose for stops. I also drilled and taped holes for two additional bolts in each finger so I have a total of four bolts per side just for strength and safety. You've demonstrated that it works just fine with two.

I wasn't completely happy with my press without the 1 inch pipe addition on screw end... Had a little bit too much slop and wasn't as smooth as I wanted.... I'm pretty picky though. I also felt a lot more comfortable having the complete "ring of steel" that my fingers provided on my last version of the pipe clamp press that I posted at the beginning of this thread. With the steel of the fingers completely encompassing the ¾ inch pipe you're not relying on the strength of the pipe clamps themselves... It basically can't fail because of a potential flaw in the clamps. Just a safety precaution to put my mind at ease.





jim p said:


> I needed to take my bow completely apart today. So I took my pipe and drilled 1/4" holes all the way through the pipe on a spacing of 1 1/4". Then I took the handle off of the screw and found a socket that I could drive on the end of the screw. I put the bow in the press with the screw end of the clamps toward the center of the pipe. I pressed the bow and took the string and cable off. Then I started letting the pressure off the limbs. When the front part of the screw came close to a hole I would drop an allen wrench in the hole and keep unpressing the bow until the part holding the fingers hit the allen wrench and stopped. Now I would hold the locking fingers and screw the back part of the clamp toward the hole with the allen wrench. Once I was close to the allen wrench I would release the fingers and start to press the bow. This would take the pressure off the allen wrench and I would remove the wrench and then start unpressing the bow to the next hole and repeat the process. It worked like a charm and I was able to completely relax the bow and then take it apart for maintenance.
> 
> Putting the bow back together and pressing was just a reversal of the above process.
> 
> So this press can be used to completely take a bow apart.
> 
> I love the press and I will always be thankful for Race59 sharing his idea with me.


Thank you very much for your kind words, that means a lot to me. Glad you figured out how to work around the limitations of this press, that description should be very helpful for others needing to do the same.


----------



## Gene1

I belive it looks like BobE39 post #318.
Instead of drilling out the pipe thread you can use the Pony Clamp # 56 and weld a steel plate to the arm.

https://www.adjustableclamp.com/replacementparts/products3.asp?subcatID=247


Just like my 3/4" Pony clamp with the long arms. I would need to weld a plate on the clamp to give it enough base to screw the wood fingers to. The yellow line on the right (pin) will hold the fingers still and you remove the 2nd pin (no shown between the two yellow lines) and insert it to the left yellow line and then back the handle to the left yellow line to release the pressure off the right yellow line. Remove right yellow line and depress the bow again until you see the next hole and repin the finger to move the clamp again.


----------



## 1955

Gene1 said:


> Just like my 3/4" Pony clamp with the long arms. I would need to weld a plate on the clamp to give it enough base to screw the wood fingers to. The yellow line on the right (pin) will hold the fingers still and you remove the 2nd pin (no shown between the two yellow lines) and insert it to the left yellow line and then back the handle to the left yellow line to release the pressure off the right yellow line. Remove right yellow line and depress the bow again until you see the next hole and repin the finger to move the clamp again.


Duh, I must have really been tired last night. That makes perfect sense this morning. Thanks.


----------



## Race59

*Weight*



jrip said:


> Im sure this bow press weighs around 10# and would be a great portable press for changing strings or peep sights etc. Not to mention a great aid in tuning almost any bow. For complete tear downs you would need more but 99% of AT'ers would wet their pants at the thought of completely breaking down their bow.
> 
> Good job on the press.


Just weighed the press and it comes in around 8 1/2 pounds.... Quite manageable.


----------



## jim p

*bowpress pictures*

The pipe clamp is an Irwin pipe clamp purchased at Home Depot for approx. $15.00. I modified the pipe clamp head by drilling a hole in the end and then grinding the hole out so that the end of the head clamp would slide over and along the pipe. I took the handle off the clamp and found a 6 point socket that I could drive onto the end of the screw, which allows me to turn the screw using the racket wrench.


----------



## Race59

jim p said:


> The pipe clamp is an Irwin pipe clamp purchased at Home Depot for approx. $15.00. I modified the pipe clamp head by drilling a hole in the end and then grinding the hole out so that the end of the head clamp would slide over and along the pipe. I took the handle off the clamp and found a 6 point socket that I could drive onto the end of the screw, which allows me to turn the screw using the racket wrench.


Thanks for posting the photos to go along with your narrative. A very creative way to overcome a problem.


----------



## DeepFried

*Is it possible to offset the fingers so that the bow can be pressed with the string facing up?*


----------



## jim p

If you need to press with the string up, you can hang the pipe like a cloths hanger rod, or you can suspend the pipe from a couple of ropes. This way you don't have to use any different fingers.

I use my press in all kinds of positions. Sometimes I lay it on its side so that I can get to the side of the cam that I want to work on. Once the bow is being pressed with enough pressure for the strings to start to go slack the bow is pretty solidly held in the press.


----------



## Longrodder

I just ordered this one today from woodcraft and they have free ground shipping on orders today.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003714/69/42-Capacity-T-Bar.aspx


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## BIG T28

For the guys that are useing 2x4, are you using just any old 2x4?


----------



## 1955

BIG T28 said:


> For the guys that are useing 2x4, are you using just any old 2x4?


I'm not sure if anyone is using "2x4's", but I could be wrong. Mine may look like it's made with a standard 2x4, but it's NOT. I used cherry...a hardwood, for mine. Some of today's 2x4 wood, even kiln dried, could be too soft in some areas, resulting in the wood crushing unevenly. I'm not sure if it would hurt, but it could stress the cam bearings and could even pop out of the press. YMMV


----------



## KenA

A genius designs something, a smart person figures out how to use it for other purposes. Good job.


----------



## ToddB

john5mt said:


> These pipe clamps have a little more travel in the screws and they come on and off the end of a pipe without having to screw it on.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-224134-Quick-Grip-4-Inch-Clamp/dp/B0000CCXVO
> 
> Besides the feet are a lot bigger too.
> 
> Great idea
> 
> I would thing the only thing to add is something or someone to angle the surfaces a little so it doesnt slide up when the pressure is put against it. Your rubber on the ends is good. Maybe putting something with a little more grip on it is all you would really need. The pockets Gene put in his are kind of what i am thinking about.


Do you think with this type of clamp, if you bought two and you cut the pipe to the right size you could use the screw end on each end of the pipe so you would get enough travel to fully relaxe the bow?


----------



## Neuralgia

It would work, but ONLY if you used a perfect size of pipe for only ONE bow.

BTW, Race, merry Xmas.

Thanks for everything, specially for this GREAT IDEA.

Dan from Costa rica


----------



## Gene1

As shown on a earlier post #385, you can drill out the back and let the pipe run thru. The Irwin clamps does not screw into the pipe so you can have an adjustable press and not limit yourself. Both end uses the plate system to lock it in place.

Not sure how much travel you need to let down the whole bow.


----------



## tacogrande

My first post:mg:
That is an excellent idea!!!!! I am definitly building one for myself for my hoyt.
I have a question though.... How will it work on the overflexed limbs on the pse x forces and mathews monsters??? Can you press these bows from the limb tips?? It looks like they would shoot out of the press or do you need longer fingers to get to the higher part of the limb? Just asking because I just bought a new pse and don't know how to press it. It would only be barly pressed for string and cable changes.


----------



## Neuralgia

yes, you're completely right.

ONLY with the Irwin one.

The one from Harbor Freight screws into the pipe, so it's fixed.

Just wanted to clarify.


----------



## jim p

Neuralgia said:


> yes, you're completely right.
> 
> ONLY with the Irwin one.
> 
> The one from Harbor Freight screws into the pipe, so it's fixed.
> 
> Just wanted to clarify.


I don't know for sure but I am thinking that any clamp that you can drill out so that it will go over the pipe could be used to let the bow completely down. You would need to drill holes so that a pin could be used as a back stop for both the part holding the fingers and the part holding the screw. You would use a pin to hold the front part when you needed to move the back part and you would use another pin to hold the back part when you needed to move the front part. 

Would this work?


----------



## 1955

tacogrande said:


> My first post:mg:
> That is an excellent idea!!!!! I am definitly building one for myself for my hoyt.
> I have a question though.... How will it work on the overflexed limbs on the pse x forces and mathews monsters??? Can you press these bows from the limb tips?? It looks like they would shoot out of the press or do you need longer fingers to get to the higher part of the limb? Just asking because I just bought a new pse and don't know how to press it. It would only be barly pressed for string and cable changes.


I've got a Maxxis on the way and thought the same thing, but at the shop, they press it the same way. BUT I'm not sure of the PSE's since they look way past parallel.


----------



## Neuralgia

jim p said:


> I don't know for sure but I am thinking that any clamp that you can drill out so that it will go over the pipe could be used to let the bow completely down. You would need to drill holes so that a pin could be used as a back stop for both the part holding the fingers and the part holding the screw. You would use a pin to hold the front part when you needed to move the back part and you would use another pin to hold the back part when you needed to move the front part.
> 
> Would this work?


I'm pretty sure it will.

It's much better than getting 2 Irwin clamps, like I said


----------



## Gene1

By drilling the pipes out and have the screw end side down the pipe and using pins will work to remove the limbs. 

By paying more for 2 clamps, it's easier but not sure if the travel is enough to remove the limbs.


----------



## Top Gauge

One of the best threads going yet. 

Sorry if I missed it, I have been reading this post since day one, but has anyone pressed a Truth 2 with this setup? I think that I am going to buy both the bow and the parts required for this press tomorrow. 

thanks in advance!


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## specialk2323

This would definately save a couple of trips down to the local bowshop


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## 17ghk

WOW thanks for all the great ideas and for sharing especially to Race59 that started the hole thing. :der: I work in a tube mill and did not think of this. Some tube has what they call ID burr on the inside seem from welding together and not cut out. To make a sleeve for less binding try to find tube with the burr removed. And there is quit a difference in tube quality from one country to another.


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## Buckbadger

Overall the press is a great idea, just do not care for the ones with wood fingers, I think many are taking chances here? I see wooden fingers splitting and bows blowing up in the near future?:zip:


----------



## skybolt

Buckbadger said:


> Overall the press is a great idea, just do not care for the ones with wood fingers, I think many are taking chances here? I see wooden fingers splitting and bows blowing up in the near future?:zip:


Good quality plywood, 5 ply (not the cheap 3 ply stuff) 1/2" or 5/8" or a good piece of oak is easier to work with and can be cut with a jig saw. This stuff is used to make floor joist and will hold up a house. If you have access to a mill use aluminum. Steel is overkill. You are only talking about pressing 70 to 80 lbs max.


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## Gene1

I would not go the plywood (3 or 5 ply) route because at the fingers you only have about an inch of wood as fingers. I've seen plywood split under stress when it's than narrow. Use a good piece of hardwood. And watch which way the grain is going.


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## Race59

*Be careful!!!*

Gosh, I don't know where to start. 

I'm not an engineer.... Don't even play one on TV, but some of these suggestions make me kind of nervous.

Before I built this press I read everything on this forum and many others about pressing bows that I could find. I'm quite sure that it takes a bit more force than 70 or 80 pounds to press a bow. I recall reading somewhere that about 200 to 300 pounds of force is required for a typical compound bow and that seems about right from what I've encountered.

One needs to remember that we're using these clamps for a purpose that they were not intended or designed for. On the positive side we are only using a fraction of the force that the clamps are capable of producing. One thing to consider is that by placing these fingers on the clamps the leverage on the component is increased exponentially.

I encourage anyone who attempts to build this type of press to consider what they're doing very carefully. Steel maybe indeed overkill, but when it comes to safety overkill is a good thing. 

There's been at least one person killed while working on their bow, whether it was being pressed or not at the time is not clear, however accidents can and do happen.... Be careful!!!!

Here's a link to an article concerning this incident.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/ukn...er-dies-after-mishap-while-adjusting-bow.html


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## dustyvarmint

Race59 said:


> I'm quite sure that it takes a bit more force than 70 or 80 pounds to press a bow. I recall reading somewhere that about 200 to 300 pounds of force is required for a typical compound bow and that seems about right from what I've encountered.


I agree - I don't know what weight is being pressed, but I believe it to be much greater than the draw weight of the bow.

In addition to this press I monkeyed around with one made from perforated steel and 7/16" mild (I think that is the right term) steel bolts on the limb tips. Worked fine on traditional limbed compounds, but straight up bent the 7/16" bolt on a parallel limb model. That's after 4 turns off a 70 lb bow. 

Would be interesting to know how much weight is being pressed.

Although I didn't do it I think the users who laminated their wooden fingers are on the right track.

happy hunting, dv


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## Gene1

I think the compound bow is basic like on pulleys. So the forces are much greater than the actual draw weight. Also the longer the fingers the more canter level force is applied to the fingers to the base (pipe)


----------



## JDA

For those concerned about the clamp slipping on the pipe under load, a collar off of a weight set slips perfectly over a 3/4" black pipe and should be a cheap (or free) way to back up the movable end without weakening the pipe by drilling holes for pins.


----------



## 1955

Buckbadger said:


> Overall the press is a great idea, just do not care for the ones with wood fingers, I think many are taking chances here? I see wooden fingers splitting and bows blowing up in the near future?:zip:


Here's what the fingers look like on my "cherry wood" bow press.









Without *any* insult intended, but you must not be to familiar with the properties of hard woods. That's 1.75" thick and over an inch wide for each finger. I'm not an engineer, but I'd bet (and every time I use it, I am doing just that) that the fingers on this press are as strong as any of the home made steel ones.

As far as plywood goes...no way! Plywood is just not designed to used in this manner. As soon as you put some pressure on it, something would give.


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## Archeroni

1955 said:


> Here's what the fingers look like on my "cherry wood" bow press.........
> but I'd bet (and every time I use it, I am doing just that) that the fingers on this press are as strong as any of the home made steel ones.
> 
> .


What you have done there is plenty strong and looks safe, stronger than steel? Pushing it a bit there.


----------



## mongoosesnipe

as i came up with the using wood plan i think can legitimately say i would not recommend using plywood but i am happy to see the the use of wood has really taken off as many of us dont have access to machine shops to make metal work easy but wood working is well with in the grasps for most of us just remember use good strong solid hardwood with a straight grain


----------



## Race59

*Thanks*



1955 said:


> Here's what the fingers look like on my "cherry wood" bow press.
> 
> Without *any* insult intended, but you must not be to familiar with the properties of hard woods. That's 1.75" thick and over an inch wide for each finger. I'm not an engineer, but I'd bet (and every time I use it, I am doing just that) that the fingers on this press are as strong as any of the home made steel ones.
> 
> As far as plywood goes...no way! Plywood is just not designed to used in this manner. As soon as you put some pressure on it, something would give.


Your press fingers are truly finely crafted and more than strong enough to handle the forces required of them. You obviously know what you're doing and it shows. There are several others who have posted quality wooden fingered presses as well. I didn't mean to offend anyone with my comments. If I did please accept apologies.... It's just that I would feel really bad if someone would hurt themselves or damage their equipment with this type of press.

What really had me concerned was somebody talking about 2 x 4's and someone else suggesting plywood. I don't want anyone thinking they can just go out and take a couple pieces of scrap building material and come up with a safe and reliable bow press. A sufficient thickness of a premium grade specialty plywood would probably work fine, but not a leftover chunk of scrap 1/2" CDX.


Though I do have some experience with wood, have built cabinets, furniture and several houses, I'm partial to steel.... Steel is what I know best so it's my material of choice. I realize that not everybody has the experience and equipment to work with steel and the wooden fingers seem to be a safe and viable alternative.

And, I would like to thank everyone once again for their input and the effort they've made to help others with this press project. Working together we have come up with a lot of good ideas and solutions to problems.


----------



## Skeeter 58

Geeze that looks okay esp for the $.


----------



## BobE39

I decided to do some testing on my bow press to determine the amount of pressure it takes to make the string slack and the pressure the wood fingers will take on my press (see pictures on Post 318). My bow is a ProTech set at 50 lbs. The results were 135 lbs to make the string slack.

The bow press wooden fingers would take a pressure of 260 lbs because that was the limit of my bathroom scale! That is almost twice as much as it takes to slacken the string. I personally feel there is 'no problem' with wooden fingers. The wooden fingers on my press are straight grained red oak and 
.825" thick and relatively short. Remember, the length of the fingers is a factor on the pressure being exerted on the wood.


----------



## 1955

Archeroni said:


> What you have done there is plenty strong and looks safe, stronger than steel? Pushing it a bit there.


I never said that they were stronger than steel. I was comparing mine to Race59's that were made of .25" thick steel (the home made steel ones). I believe that the steel or wood are WAY more than adequate for our purposes. I think that at the point that the steel would bend, the wood would crack.


----------



## 1955

Race59 said:


> Your press fingers are truly finely crafted and more than strong enough to handle the forces required of them. You obviously know what you're doing and it shows. There are several others who have posted quality wooden fingered presses as well. I didn't mean to offend anyone with my comments. If I did please accept apologies.... It's just that I would feel really bad if someone would hurt themselves or damage their equipment with this type of press.
> 
> What really had me concerned was somebody talking about 2 x 4's and someone else suggesting plywood. I don't want anyone thinking they can just go out and take a couple pieces of scrap building material and come up with a safe and reliable bow press. A sufficient thickness of a premium grade specialty plywood would probably work fine, but not a leftover chunk of scrap 1/2" CDX.
> 
> 
> Though I do have some experience with wood, have built cabinets, furniture and several houses, I'm partial to steel.... Steel is what I know best so it's my material of choice. I realize that not everybody has the experience and equipment to work with steel and the wooden fingers seem to be a safe and viable alternative.
> 
> And, I would like to thank everyone once again for their input and the effort they've made to help others with this press project. Working together we have come up with a lot of good ideas and solutions to problems.


You did not offend me at all, in fact I was not even thinking of you in this. I was quoting Buckbadger and addressing him.

And you are absolutely right, 2x4 stud material or any kind of plywood would be a BAD idea!


----------



## RugerRedhawk

Honestly given the low cost of materials, and minimal labor in making something like this, I can't believe no company is marketing something along these lines in the $50-100 range. I guess it's just that most press sales are toward shops, so nobody really makes a non-portable one targeted toward (and within the budget of) home users. If I could get a hold of a set of fingers reasonable I would probably build one of these. I know cutting them out of wood wouldn't be too much work, but I don't have a ton of free time to be honest.


----------



## Neuralgia

You know why?

1. Race59, imho, is the owner of the design.

2. If this costs $20, then why pay $100?

What's really interesting is why NO ONE is selling "fingers" for it.

I had wood first, but didn't feel comfortable enough, now I own steal, and I feel my press is undestructable.

I take it with e in my car when I need to.


----------



## Race59

*Selling presses*



RugerRedhawk said:


> Honestly given the low cost of materials, and minimal labor in making something like this, I can't believe no company is marketing something along these lines in the $50-100 range. I guess it's just that most press sales are toward shops, so nobody really makes a non-portable one targeted toward (and within the budget of) home users. If I could get a hold of a set of fingers reasonable I would probably build one of these. I know cutting them out of wood wouldn't be too much work, but I don't have a ton of free time to be honest.


I originally posted this press to help others build their own at a reasonable cost, not to make money. AT has been very helpful to me and I wanted to give something back. Truthfully, I've been kind of surprised how many people have had problems building this and wanted to buy either fingers or a complete press. I thought it would be a very easy project for the average do it yourselfer. I guess I failed to realize that not everyone is mechanically inclined. 

After I started receiving numerous private messages wanting to buy a complete press or parts I've thought long and hard about marketing this press or even the fingers for it. Not to get rich but to help people out...... You'd have to sell a lot of presses to make any real money. And even though there's only about $20.00 worth of material you would probably have to have at least $100 per press to make it worth your while.... At least on a small scale. 

By the time you gather all the material, fabricate the press, paint or powder coat it, put protection on the fingers, roundup shipping material and run it to UPS or the post office you would have more time & energy than one would think. And then of course there are liability issues, nothings foolproof. 

Selling just the fingers is of course an option. There are several large machine shops locally that could knock out a couple hundred in pretty short order, but building the fingers is the easy part.... Lining up all the damn holes and making things work smoothly that's where the time and skill come in. Quite likely I would spend more time on the phone or private messaging helping people to get things working properly than it would take to build the fingers. My thoughts have kind of been if people can't build the fingers they probably can't put the press together either, maybe I'm wrong?

There've been a lot of people building some really nice presses of this style using wood fingers. That seems to be a very viable option for those without metal working skills or welding equipment. Originally, using wood never even entered my mind except for perhaps an interface between the clamp and the steel fingers. So it ain't like I have all answers!!!

If someone had connections to a manufacturer in China I can see where it could be economically viable to have clamps produced with the fingers cast as part of the clamps themselves. This could probably be done for slightly more than the plain pipe clamps themselves would cost if done in bulk. You would still have to deal with the travel limitations of this press. A longer screw might be possible?

I do have ideas for other presses that are more versatile and elegant than this one, but not as do it yourself friendly. A couple different designs are nearly finished, however I have a lot going on currently and plan to post some more stuff in the future.



Neuralgia said:


> You know why?
> 
> 1. Race59, imho, is the owner of the design.
> 
> 2. If this costs $20, then why pay $100?
> 
> What's really interesting is why NO ONE is selling "fingers" for it.
> 
> I had wood first, but didn't feel comfortable enough, now I own steal, and I feel my press is undestructable.
> 
> I take it with e in my car when I need to.




Neuralgia, I can't tell you how much I appreciate your unwavering support and and help with fielding questions on this thread. It means a great deal to me. Thank you


----------



## hotsyhog

*Bowpress fingers*

I just built my own bowpress out of the Harbor Freight clamps. I initially used wood fingers but they did not slide real well. My neighbor is a sheet metal worker and wants to start selling the fingers... He just made a set of steel fingers with the dimensions of the ones posted on this forum. He is very interested in making more of these. I told him to leave the holes for the screws out, to let people drill there own depending on what clamps they have... He has 5 sets already cut out. If anyone is interested, please pm me and I will send pics of these... He wants $25 shipped.


----------



## Neuralgia

Can recommend something?

Another moh that would be nive is to ave welded some "stops" for the bow to sit on the fingers, so we can get rid of the hoses.

You can glu in some rubber or even dip them in something to portect the limbs. I wouls have done it my self if I knew how to weld.

If you're lazy enough you couls just place a pice of ols shirt or something.

It would look like this:









(PS: you could even make design somethinglike this, so you can slide them uo or down, to fit diff cam sizes)

Just a thought.


----------



## madarchery

Post up pics.


----------



## RugerRedhawk

Still thinking about making one of these, how well does it hold the bow? Just looking at it I'd be kind of nervous of bumping it.


----------



## 1955

RugerRedhawk said:


> Still thinking about making one of these, how well does it hold the bow? Just looking at it I'd be kind of nervous of bumping it.


If it's done properly and fit's the bow you have, it should hold as well as a commercial bow press. Is it the clamp you're worried about or the "fingers"?


----------



## RugerRedhawk

1955 said:


> If it's done properly and fit's the bow you have, it should hold as well as a commercial bow press. Is it the clamp you're worried about or the "fingers"?


The fingers, I've never pressed a bow, so I'm just asking. From my perspective it looks like you could knock it over, but maybe there is enough pressure and it's just an illusion to me.


----------



## dustyvarmint

Ruger,

Race59 posted pics pages back with his spouse (I think) holding the bow in a number of different angles (with the metal fingers) to allay this concern. 

I have the wood fingers and it is tight, no worries.

good luck, dv


----------



## RugerRedhawk

dustyvarmint said:


> Ruger,
> 
> Race59 posted pics pages back with his spouse (I think) holding the bow in a number of different angles (with the metal fingers) to allay this concern.
> 
> I have the wood fingers and it is tight, no worries.
> 
> good luck, dv


Thanks, guess I'll just have to decide whether to buy steel fingers, or make wooden ones. I have the tools, not sure about the time!


----------



## Neuralgia

Ruger,

I have 3 different presses.

A Bowmaster, this one, and an EZ press style.

Guess wich is the one I use the most?

BTW: this is Race59's wife, holding that bow
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1055388876&postcount=181


----------



## RugerRedhawk

Thanks, if anyone has fingers for sale let me know.


----------



## Race59

hotsyhog said:


> I just built my own bowpress out of the Harbor Freight clamps. I initially used wood fingers but they did not slide real well. My neighbor is a sheet metal worker and wants to start selling the fingers... He just made a set of steel fingers with the dimensions of the ones posted on this forum. He is very interested in making more of these. I told him to leave the holes for the screws out, to let people drill there own depending on what clamps they have... He has 5 sets already cut out. If anyone is interested, please pm me and I will send pics of these... He wants $25 shipped.


Glad the press is working out for you. Post pictures of your press if you can. I'm sure everyone would like to see it!



$25.00 shipped for fingers sounds reasonable to me. Please post pictures of them as well. 
How is he cutting them? 
Do they include the extension tube?

Leaving the holes out is a good idea. Even the holes on the Harbor Freight clamps vary significantly from one to the next. I've found that each set of fingers has to be individually fit to each clamp for it to work properly. I think people would end up pulling their hair out with predrilled holes.


----------



## hotsyhog

Yes, they do have the extension tube... I will try to figure out how to post the pics... I'm a little computer dumb..


----------



## Neuralgia

you can email me the pics if you want, so I can post them for you...

You know what? I just realized I haven't posted my own version. I'm pretty sure I have the pics of the making of the fingers...

:?


----------



## hotsyhog

Here are a couple of pics of the fingers.. I still need to cut off the long bolts that I used on my wooden fingers... also need to dip the fingers in plastisol, rubber coating and install some stops..


----------



## hotsyhog

I'm still thinking of new ideas.. I have not seen anyone mention just welding the fingers directly to the clamps.. This would be the strongest way.. no lining up the holes and many styles of clamps could be used. My neighbor may give this a try and just sell the clamps with fingers already on them. Would anyone be intersted in this idea?


----------



## Race59

Neuralgia said:


> Can recommend something?
> 
> Another moh that would be nive is to ave welded some "stops" for the bow to sit on the fingers, so we can get rid of the hoses.
> 
> You can glu in some rubber or even dip them in something to portect the limbs. I wouls have done it my self if I knew how to weld.
> 
> If you're lazy enough you couls just place a pice of ols shirt or something.
> 
> It would look like this:
> 
> (PS: you could even make design somethinglike this, so you can slide them uo or down, to fit diff cam sizes)
> 
> Just a thought.


Of course you can recommend something, that's what this thread is all about!!!

Actually, I've had similar thoughts.

I guess when I first started this project I was trying to make it a no weld press but I wasn't satisfied with with the smoothness of the fingers by themselves so I added the 1 inch extension tube. The fingers were left in their original form. I never got around to or had the need to modify them, but I don't doubt that they could be improved. 

If someone decides to weld something on the fingers they need to consider that might change the metallurgy of the steel. It could make it weak or even crystallize it. I would suggest not quenching it in water or cooling it to quickly. Of course a heat treatment would be ideal, but that's beyond the scope of this. 
I'm not saying that someone couldn't just welded it and forget it and be just fine, but I have no way of knowing how someone's going to treat the metal or even what type of steel their using. The key point is always think about what you're doing.


----------



## Race59

*Looks nice!*



hotsyhog said:


> Here are a couple of pics of the fingers.. I still need to cut off the long bolts that I used on my wooden fingers... also need to dip the fingers in plastisol, rubber coating and install some stops..


The fingers are pretty nice!!!



hotsyhog said:


> I'm still thinking of new ideas.. I have not seen anyone mention just welding the fingers directly to the clamps.. This would be the strongest way.. no lining up the holes and many styles of clamps could be used. My neighbor may give this a try and just sell the clamps with fingers already on them. Would anyone be intersted in this idea?


I would definitely discourage you from trying to weld the fingers directly to the clamps. I'm quite certain that they are cast iron. You have to really know what you're doing to weld that. And even when you do you can get uncertain results. Your opening a real can of worms even attempting it.

It would be possible to braze the fingers to the clamps, but that requires a bit of skill and knowledge as well. 

If we were talking about fixing a doorstop or something like that that would be one thing, but with a bowpress safety is paramount.


----------



## Race59

*Post the pictures!!!!*



Neuralgia said:


> you can email me the pics if you want, so I can post them for you...
> 
> You know what? I just realized I haven't posted my own version. I'm pretty sure I have the pics of the making of the fingers...
> 
> :?


Post the pictures!!! I'm sure everyone would love to see them, especially process of manufacture.


----------



## ohiohunter1

*Crossbow*

Has anyone tried this on a crossbow? Pics Please.


----------



## RugerRedhawk

Picked up a bessey clamp with stand from lowes for $15, but after getting it out and looking at it, I'm not sure if there's enough surface on the 'screw side' of the clamp to put bolts through it. Seems like the bolts would have to be awful close to the edge of the clamp, anyone use the bessey or see what I'm talking about?


----------



## 1955

RugerRedhawk said:


> Picked up a bessey clamp with stand from lowes for $15, but after getting it out and looking at it, I'm not sure if there's enough surface on the 'screw side' of the clamp to put bolts through it. Seems like the bolts would have to be awful close to the edge of the clamp, anyone use the bessey or see what I'm talking about?


Post a pic of which clamp it is, I'm not sure which style you're talking about. Bessey makes a ton of different clamps.


----------



## RugerRedhawk

1955 said:


> Post a pic of which clamp it is, I'm not sure which style you're talking about. Bessey makes a ton of different clamps.


This is the clamp, of course this image doesn't show the side that I'm concerned about so I don't know if it will help. The black is just a rubber piece that slides off.


----------



## RugerRedhawk

Perhaps I should save myself the headache and just buy some that already have the holes drilled. I'm having some fingers made up for me.


----------



## dustyvarmint

RugerRedhawk said:


> This is the clamp, of course this image doesn't show the side that I'm concerned about so I don't know if it will help. The black is just a rubber piece that slides off.


Wow, it doesn't look like there is much room in there. I'd say go with some Pony's if you can find them or some Harbor Freight ones.

Can't you just whack a hole in there with a slug from that Redhawk:smile:?

happy DIY, dv


----------



## RugerRedhawk

dustyvarmint said:


> Wow, it doesn't look like there is much room in there. I'd say go with some Pony's if you can find them or some Harbor Freight ones.
> 
> Can't you just whack a hole in there with a slug from that Redhawk:smile:?
> 
> happy DIY, dv


To me the pony looks like it has almost the same amount of room...










The rockler and HF ones do have holes already in them.


----------



## dustyvarmint

Oh, yeah, I think you are right. If I remember right I used #8 screws 1/4" in from top and 1/4" in from side on both sides ("ears"). I felt that was solid enough.

I haven't been paying attention to see what others are using, but maybe #8s are as large as you'd want to go?

dv


----------



## RugerRedhawk

dustyvarmint said:


> Oh, yeah, I think you are right. If I remember right I used #8 screws 1/4" in from top and 1/4" in from side on both sides ("ears"). I felt that was solid enough.
> 
> I haven't been paying attention to see what others are using, but maybe #8s are as large as you'd want to go?
> 
> dv


You're probably right. I'll keep thinking on it. Anyone implement any of the extra features mentioned earlier in the thread that ensure no slippage? Like the bearing collar?


----------



## oh-bowhunter

*My $25 Press*

Here is my press, finished it last week and tried it out tonight on my sons Razors Edge.It works flawlessly, it is so easy to use and set up I would recommend this to anyone who needs a press to do the basics.I used the Bessey clamp from Lowes and it works fine,Thanks to Race and everyone else who posted their ideas and pics.


----------



## 1955

RugerRedhawk said:


> You're probably right. I'll keep thinking on it. Anyone implement any of the extra features mentioned earlier in the thread that ensure no slippage? Like the bearing collar?


I used 1/4" 20's, 4 in each and it's not going anywhere. It looks like the Bessey's are almost identical to the Pony's that I used.

I'm not sure anyone is getting any slippage...I just think that many people here are not familiar with pipe clamps. When I press my bow, I'm not using anywhere near the clamping force that I use with some glue up's and I've NEVER had a clamp slip. The more you tighten them, the more they dig in and the better they hold...kind of like a "Chinese finger torture", but with teeth!

I believe that "slippage is a non issue.

As you can see from this picture, I didn't even use nuts on the back side, I just threaded the holes in the clamp. You can see that there is plenty of room. 

PS. The wood is NOT just a 2x4, it is 1.75" thick cherry hardwood.


----------



## mrlongshot

I will hopefully have mine done this weekend too. I e-mailed some pics and diagrams to my dad last week asking him what he thought? My wife and I went over there for dinner yesterday and guess what he did....went to his buddy's house that has $$$$$$ worth of machining tools. He was able to do everything from cutting to tapping the holes for some 1/4-20 allen heads. We still have to finish up some drilling on the Pony clamp and bend the fingers. I'll post some pics as soon as we get it done.


----------



## RugerRedhawk

Thanks for the pics guys, can't wait to get some fingers so i can finally finish this off.


----------



## Race59

RugerRedhawk said:


> Picked up a bessey clamp with stand from lowes for $15, but after getting it out and looking at it, I'm not sure if there's enough surface on the 'screw side' of the clamp to put bolts through it. Seems like the bolts would have to be awful close to the edge of the clamp, anyone use the bessey or see what I'm talking about?


Looks like I'm a little late on this thread, but I went to Lowe's tonight and bought the "H" style clamp to see if there was enough space for screws to attach the fingers... it appears that there is plenty of room for fasteners. You should be fine.

Good luck with your press. If you have any problems just post your questions here... There are plenty good people that are more than willing to help.


----------



## rslscobra

I think I may have to build one. How or where did you guys get your fingers?


----------



## RugerRedhawk

rslscobra said:


> I think I may have to build one. How or where did you guys get your fingers?


I'm getting some from HostyHog. You can see pics on the previous page of comments in this thread.


----------



## Gene1

RugerRedhawk said:


> Picked up a bessey clamp with stand from lowes for $15, but after getting it out and looking at it, I'm not sure if there's enough surface on the 'screw side' of the clamp to put bolts through it. Seems like the bolts would have to be awful close to the edge of the clamp, anyone use the bessey or see what I'm talking about?


Here is a picture of the 3/4" Bessey & Pony pipe clamps.

I used the Pony clamp and did not drill close to the edge. Once I started drilling the clamp and saw how thick it was and though I could have drilled it a little close to the edge.


----------



## RugerRedhawk

Gene1 said:


> Here is a picture of the 3/4" Bessey & Pony pipe clamps.
> 
> I used the Pony clamp and did not drill close to the edge. Once I started drilling the clamp and saw how thick it was and though I could have drilled it a little close to the edge.


I see, I guess I'll keep the bessey clamp, I've never drilled through this type of material so I was concerned about being close to the edge, but I guess it's not a big deal. Thanks.


----------



## Gene1

When drilling the clamps, drill on the back side (not the face of the clamp) to make sure you clear the web/support on the clamp. Use a drill press to drill these holes. You can remove the clamp off the handle, on the Pony clamp I had to pull the pin out, on the Bessey it looks like you can press out the roll pin.

BTW, just make sure you mount the clamp tight on the drill press table while drilling. The clamp will jump out of the vise and up the drill bit when you start to pull up on the piece if it's not tight. Also add oil while drilling.


----------



## RugerRedhawk

Gene1 said:


> When drilling the clamps, drill on the back side (not the face of the clamp) to make sure you clear the web/support on the clamp. Use a drill press to drill these holes. You can remove the clamp off the handle, on the Pony clamp I had to pull the pin out, on the Bessey it looks like you can press out the roll pin.
> 
> BTW, just make sure you mount the clamp tight on the drill press table while drilling. The clamp will jump out of the vise and up the drill bit when you start to pull up on the piece if it's not tight. Also add oil while drilling.


Yeah, this is going to be a huge pain, I don't own a drill press or know anyone off the top of my head who owns one. I was beginning to wonder about this step of the process. I'll figure something out.


----------



## dustyvarmint

Sorry, I did use a DP, but I don't think it necessary. Could be done with a hand drill. Would be nice to have the face of the clamp "up" on a block or edge of workbench that can be drilled into and drill into back side as suggested. Or, maybe just squeeze it into a vice and drill into the face. 

A punch, whether center, machinist scribe or whatever would be nice to get the hole started in the right place, though.

good luck, dv


----------



## ocn

*wow*

Nice


----------



## Gene1

You can drill it by hand just make real sure you get a firm grip with both hands and the piece is mounted tight. It'll take a little longer by hand. 

Sorry, did not mean to discourage you. Just be safe.


----------



## RugerRedhawk

Gene1 said:


> You can drill it by hand just make real sure you get a firm grip with both hands and the piece is mounted tight. It'll take a little longer by hand.
> 
> Sorry, did not mean to discourage you. Just be safe.


Yeah, I'm sure I can make it happen. If I had a bigger budget right now I'd love to use this as an excuse to finally get a drill press, it's one of the thigns I'm lacking!


----------



## dustyvarmint

RugerRedhawk said:


> Yeah, I'm sure I can make it happen. If I had a bigger budget right now I'd love to use this as an excuse to finally get a drill press, it's one of the thigns I'm lacking!


For the money you are saving on the press you could probably get a nice Harbor Freight drill press. :smile:

happy hunting, dv


----------



## Race59

RugerRedhawk said:


> Yeah, this is going to be a huge pain, I don't own a drill press or know anyone off the top of my head who owns one. I was beginning to wonder about this step of the process. I'll figure something out.


Both Dustyvarmint and Gene have some good advice. They both know what they're talking about.

You can do this with a portable electric drill. Just be sure to mark all the holes accurately and use a center punch and a hammer to make a dimple to start the drill bit so it doesn't "wander". You may want to use a small drill bit for a pilot hole first, perhaps 1/8 inch, then drill the final size hole. Like Gene said using oil, (cutting oil) will make the job easier and faster. Be sure to keep the dlill at 90° relative to your work.

Make sure you have the clamp part that you're drilling secured with a vice or a clamp before you start.

Cast iron actually drills pretty easy and clean, you shouldn't have any problems.

Keep us posted as to how doing.


----------



## dustyvarmint

*Something nagging me...*

Oh yes Ruger, maybe you already thought about this, but if you are buying the fingers you want to wait to drill the clamps until you get the fingers and "map" out the hole locations that may already exist in them.

Excuse me if you already thought about that, but you'd want to shoot one of us with a blunt if we didn't tell you and you tried re-drilling. That would be bad...

dv


----------



## RugerRedhawk

dustyvarmint said:


> Oh yes Ruger, maybe you already thought about this, but if you are buying the fingers you want to wait to drill the clamps until you get the fingers and "map" out the hole locations that may already exist in them.
> 
> Excuse me if you already thought about that, but you'd want to shoot one of us with a blunt if we didn't tell you and you tried re-drilling. That would be bad...
> 
> dv


Yeah, definitely waiting till I have the fingers so I can have the holes lined up perfectly.


----------



## Neuralgia

Hey, what about pics of the finger that people are selling?


----------



## RugerRedhawk

I got a local guy making me a set. Once I get it done I'll post pics and I can pass on the guys info to anyone interested. I just checked craigslist under services.


----------



## PSE76

I'm kicking myself right now, just found this thread, and already have everything in my garage. No telling how many times I've looked at a set of clamps trying to figure out how to do this. Thanks for the info!:mg:


----------



## RugerRedhawk

I'm picking up my fingers tonight, will take pics once it's all together. Paid $35 for them, 1/4" steel. I can pass on the contact info if anyone is interested.


----------



## dustyvarmint

Looking forward to seeing your pics Ruger. 

good luck, dv


----------



## b0w_bender

spectacular!


----------



## REDVANES

Looks like an awesome bow press... Pretty impressed.... Simple too!... But besides the press... I'm more impressed with your back yard.... Looks like a beautiful place to live


----------



## RBWhite

*Pipe Press*

Very Nice!! Great and cheap idea both apply to this press. If a guy wanted a higher quality clamp "Rockler" makes a real nice 3/4" Pipe clamp called "Sure-foot". It has a larger base at the bottom and larger jaws. They are a bit more money $15.99. Here is a link to them. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17397

Thanks for the great idea I see one in my future.:smile:


----------



## dat201

Just wanted to say thanks for sharing ,been following this thread and finally made one myself,to use on a Monster and it works great :darkbeer:


----------



## RugerRedhawk

Thanks for your help everyone, just got mine finished this morning!! I might spruce it up a bit with some paint, or I might not. Pressed my equalizer and my wife's razor edge and it worked great!


































Had a guy make the fingers for me, put them on a bessey clamp from lowes, 1/2" clear vinyl tubing on the figers, and 5/8" tubing for the stops. I love it! All said and done including the fingers I have about $60 in this.


----------



## Gene1

Looking good .


----------



## 2X_LUNG

question..nice idea. But, how do you tie in your peep and stuff. isnt the bar in the way. It looks like 3inches or so from the string to the pipe....this looks hard......anyone inform me further on this?


----------



## dustyvarmint

RugerRedhawk said:


> Thanks for your help everyone, just got mine finished this morning!! I might spruce it up a bit with some paint, or I might not. Pressed my equalizer and my wife's razor edge and it worked great!
> 
> Had a guy make the fingers for me, put them on a bessey clamp from lowes, 1/2" clear vinyl tubing on the figers, and 5/8" tubing for the stops. I love it! All said and done including the fingers I have about $60 in this.


Awesome Ruger & great pics!

happy hunting, dv


----------



## dustyvarmint

2X_LUNG said:


> question..nice idea. But, how do you tie in your peep and stuff. isnt the bar in the way. It looks like 3inches or so from the string to the pipe....this looks hard......anyone inform me further on this?


Here's my perspective. I've worked on the bows for so long on a "normal" press it is hard for me to get used to working upside down. My feeble brain pebbles get confused real easy, especially when trying to figure out string twist direction. So, I just press the bow, turn it over and hang the pipe on my old press' rollers. Then I can work on the bow like normal. Distance between string and pipe hasn't been a limiting factor.

happy hunting, dv


----------



## RugerRedhawk

Quick question, do I have to loosen my limb bolts before pressing?


----------



## dustyvarmint

Ruger,

I recommend checking your owner's manual. Many companies now recommend it. It is a PITA and I don't see any pro shops doing it, but I do it if my owner's manual says so. 

happy pressing, dv


----------



## Neuralgia

not necessarily... for example, if my bow is set at 47#, I don't.

But if it's set at 70# I would
_Posted via Mobile Device_


----------



## RugerRedhawk

Thanks, I tried my wife's bow first simply because it's set around 35#. Mine was at 60 so I gave it 3 cranks down and tried it.


----------



## Race59

2X_LUNG said:


> question..nice idea. But, how do you tie in your peep and stuff. isnt the bar in the way. It looks like 3inches or so from the string to the pipe....this looks hard......anyone inform me further on this?


I haven't had any problems adjusting or tying in peep sights or anything of that nature. Though I would never say that when working on your string that it wouldn't be marginally easier with a conventional bow press.

This press is definitely not the be all end all of bow presses, but pound for pound and dollar for dollar I think it's pretty effective.

I have a regular more conventional linear bow press, but I end up using this one 99.8% of the time.... Just a lot quicker and more convenient.



dustyvarmint said:


> Here's my perspective. I've worked on the bows for so long on a "normal" press it is hard for me to get used to working upside down. My feeble brain pebbles get confused real easy, especially when trying to figure out string twist direction. So, I just press the bow, turn it over and hang the pipe on my old press' rollers. Then I can work on the bow like normal. Distance between string and pipe hasn't been a limiting factor.
> 
> happy hunting, dv


A good perspective and answer from dustyvarmint.

I actually kind of like working on the bow "upside down". I do a lot of my archery work on the kitchen counter, and this works out perfect for me.


----------



## Race59

*Excellent job!!!*



RugerRedhawk said:


> Thanks for your help everyone, just got mine finished this morning!! I might spruce it up a bit with some paint, or I might not. Pressed my equalizer and my wife's razor edge and it worked great!
> 
> Had a guy make the fingers for me, put them on a bessey clamp from lowes, 1/2" clear vinyl tubing on the figers, and 5/8" tubing for the stops. I love it! All said and done including the fingers I have about $60 in this.


That's a really nice looking bow press, you did a great job of putting that together!!!

And, thank you very much for posting the great photos and description!!!


----------



## RugerRedhawk

Race59 said:


> That's a really nice looking bow press, you did a great job of putting that together!!!
> 
> And, thank you very much for posting the great photos and description!!!



Thanks, I borrowed my brother in law's drill press and drilling the holes was a piece of cake. Just had to be patient to make sure they stayed lined up. 

The steel on the fingers is nothing special, and appears pitted. If I just sanded them up a bit and sprayed some rustoleum on there will it look decent?


----------



## Race59

*Paint*



RugerRedhawk said:


> Thanks, I borrowed my brother in law's drill press and drilling the holes was a piece of cake. Just had to be patient to make sure they stayed lined up.
> 
> The steel on the fingers is nothing special, and appears pitted. If I just sanded them up a bit and sprayed some rustoleum on there will it look decent?


I'm glad you were able to borrow your brother in law's drill press, I'm sure that made the job much faster and easier. Keeping all the holes lined up is the hardest part of the job. I think your press turned out very well, as nice as any other posted on this thread.

I'm not sure how deep the pitting is on the fingers, but sanding and painting will likely help the appearance. If you're really concerned you could try spraying the fingers with a sandable primer, then sand down to the bare metal again after spraying and prime again and paint. You might have to repeat the primer and sanding several times if the pitting is bad.


----------



## RxBowhunter

Now we're talking! :thumb:

I added this thread to my "Favorites" and will be doing this project later


----------



## jim p

Ruger, that is one great looking press.


----------



## jwengerd

I am loving these simple but great bow presses, and I am wanting to build one myself but I am still worried about abow popping out. You could make the fingers longer and a piece of flat stock that is bolted to one finger and can spin and lock down on the other finger "incasing" the cam which would not allow the bow to "pop out". Let me know what you think here is my drawing. the red line would be the flat stock, and green lines the longer fingers. please excuse my poor paint skills lol


----------



## RugerRedhawk

jwengerd said:


> I am loving these simple but great bow presses, and I am wanting to build one myself but I am still worried about abow popping out. You could make the fingers longer and a piece of flat stock that is bolted to one finger and can spin and lock down on the other finger "incasing" the cam which would not allow the bow to "pop out". Let me know what you think here is my drawing. the red line would be the flat stock, and green lines the longer fingers. please excuse my poor paint skills lol


The height of that bar would depend on the size of your cams. If you had it too high, and the bow did somehow 'pop out', it would smash the cams into the bar and be a disaster. If the bar was too low, of course, you wouldn't be able to close it.


----------



## lc12

WOW!!! This is ONE LONG THREAD. This was started in July of last year and still running strong!
Way to go Race59.

Your "press with a twist" is an AWESOME upgrade from your simple pipe press here.

But you have captured the essence of the DIY ideals, and have found a project that is not only "simple" for most of us, but a useable project for ALL of us!
Thanks for a great idea!!!
And thanks to ALL OF YOU that have contributed to this thread!


----------



## jwengerd

RugerRedhawk said:


> The height of that bar would depend on the size of your cams. If you had it too high, and the bow did somehow 'pop out', it would smash the cams into the bar and be a disaster. If the bar was too low, of course, you wouldn't be able to close it.


So would it be better to have a saftey strap going from the riser to the clamp? Or is there no need for saftey setup and I am just being to overly paranoid of the bow popping out.


----------



## 1955

jwengerd said:


> So would it be better to have a saftey strap going from the riser to the clamp? Or is there no need for saftey setup and I am just being to overly paranoid of the bow popping out.


I believe that you're being overly paranoid...it's a bow, not a watermelon seed. There's a lot of force holding the bow in place and since you're mostly working on the strings, you're not doing any kind of torquing of the bow that would result in the bow "popping out". But even if you're removing the cams, I don't think you would need to be anymore careful than the local shop is and I've never seen them put a safety strap on any bow that they're working on.

Unless you've done something horribly wrong in the construction of the press, or while working on your bow, the bow will not pop out on it's own. Build one and you'll see.

Good luck.


----------



## jim p

Time for a repost. This is from page 5 I think.



Race59 said:


> I had my lovely wife assist with her Mathews Hyperlight and will let these photos speak for themselves.
> 
> Haven't had any issues with instability.


----------



## jim p

Oh well it did not repost the pictures. Go back and take a look.


----------



## RugerRedhawk

jim p said:


> Oh well it did not repost the pictures. Go back and take a look.


Here's the link: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1055388876&postcount=181

Not going anywhere.


----------



## jwengerd

1955 said:


> I believe that you're being overly paranoid...it's a bow, not a watermelon seed. There's a lot of force holding the bow in place and since you're mostly working on the strings, you're not doing any kind of torquing of the bow that would result in the bow "popping out". But even if you're removing the cams, I don't think you would need to be anymore careful than the local shop is and I've never seen them put a safety strap on any bow that they're working on.
> 
> Unless you've done something horribly wrong in the construction of the press, or while working on your bow, the bow will not pop out on it's own. Build one and you'll see.
> 
> Good luck.


Ok thanks Ill wont worry bout the saftey latch or strap. Thanks Guys I geuss I was to paranoid lol .


----------



## nolucklarry

*X-Force*

Any one tried this on an X-Force bow? 

I now have the Pipe clamp and just need to make the fingers. Looks like the fingers will only be able to contact the last 1 inch of limb because of the past parallel. Just wondering that the bow might seem to want to slip up out of th clamp because the limb tips arn't pressing against the finger.


----------



## Neuralgia

Just make sure to use as reference the design in page 5.

The only thing you MIGHT need to modify is the width of the groove where the cams go. As simple as measuring their width, but always important (I don't know how wide PSE's cams are).

It works perfect on my Diamond, but on my Bowtech Commander (which is a Center Pivot) it BARELY fits (without the hose)

If you add the hose, it won't fit at all.

I'll post pics later to tell you what I did.

If you have a Bowtech CP, it would be a good advice to have the groove made of 1 1/2" AT LEAST (depending on the the thickness of the hose you'll use), instead of only 1".

PS: another option is to plastidip them, but that adds some $ to your DIY project.


----------



## chadmartinson

Archeroni said:


> What you have done there is plenty strong and looks safe, stronger than steel? Pushing it a bit there.


Not stronger than steel by weight or equal dimensions, but the steel being discussed is .25 inch and the wood in question is 1.75. I'd like to see you bend or break the wood fingers as easily as you can bend the steel fingers.

I work with both wood and metal for a living and the cherry fingers he has designed are safe enough.


----------



## chadmartinson

3/4 in. pipe clamps are capable of producing up to 1200 lbs. of force. This comes from an article in the Oct 2004 issue of Fine Woodworking.


----------



## Mohunter46

Do you guys think this press would be ok for past parallel limb bows like the z7? I dont see why not but i just wanna make sure.


----------



## westpadeadeye

*fingers of wood*

im actually trying 3 pieces of red oak glued together..equals 3.5 inches wide and 2.5 inches thick..each finger will be about an 1.25 inchs wide..

my questions are..

what is the best width for the cam opening

will 1.25 fingers be strong enough

any input would be greatly appreciated


----------



## Neuralgia

for the cam opening, it depends on 2 things:

a) which cams do you own... for example, center pivots cams are much wider than any others in the market.

b) thickness of the hose you'll use over the fingers.


----------



## westpadeadeye

*info*

x force gx


----------



## 1955

westpadeadeye said:


> im actually trying 3 pieces of red oak glued together..equals 3.5 inches wide and 2.5 inches thick..each finger will be about an 1.25 inchs wide..
> 
> my questions are..
> 
> what is the best width for the cam opening
> 
> will 1.25 fingers be strong enough
> 
> any input would be greatly appreciated


When I found this thread, I took the time to read almost every post...look up Race's posts and he has dimensions on one of them.


----------



## Neuralgia

They're on page 5 btw


----------



## dat201

One word of advice for those using the Bessy be sure the use some sort of lube on the pipe ,mine was sticking and caused the roll pin to come out when relaxing the press.greased the pipe and changed the pin and it works fine.:thumbs_up


----------



## Race59

*Thanks to all*

First, I would like to thank everyone for trying to help others with their press dilemmas. I, and many others I'm sure, appreciate it. 




jwengerd said:


> Ok thanks Ill wont worry bout the saftey latch or strap. Thanks Guys I geuss I was to paranoid lol .


I haven't had any issues whatsoever with the bow trying to "jump" out of the press.... Haven't heard of anyone else having a problem either.

I believe this press can be just as secure as any other linear style press.... provided one pays attention to detail when designing and building their press.




Mohunter46 said:


> Do you guys think this press would be ok for past parallel limb bows like the z7? I dont see why not but i just wanna make sure.





nolucklarry said:


> Any one tried this on an X-Force bow?
> 
> I now have the Pipe clamp and just need to make the fingers. Looks like the fingers will only be able to contact the last 1 inch of limb because of the past parallel. Just wondering that the bow might seem to want to slip up out of th clamp because the limb tips arn't pressing against the finger.


I believe someone did use one on a past parallel limb design back in the first few pages of this thread. As I recall they posted photos as well.

If your bow manufacture approves a linear style press I don't see why this press wouldn't work.... Provided you build the proper fingers and have a good overall design and quality craftsmanship.




chadmartinson said:


> 3/4 in. pipe clamps are capable of producing up to 1200 lbs. of force. This comes from an article in the Oct 2004 issue of Fine Woodworking.


This is good information. I would've guessed even more. In the past while trying to straighten up warped boards and such I've actually crushed the wood where the clamp contacts the material.

To press a bow, we're only using a small fraction of the clamps capacity.





westpadeadeye said:


> im actually trying 3 pieces of red oak glued together..equals 3.5 inches wide and 2.5 inches thick..each finger will be about an 1.25 inchs wide..
> 
> my questions are..
> 
> what is the best width for the cam opening
> 
> will 1.25 fingers be strong enough
> 
> any input would be greatly appreciated





westpadeadeye said:


> x force gx


Only you can determine if your fingers will be strong enough. There are too many variables to give you a definitive answer on that question. We have no idea of your design or the quality of material or craftsmanship.

As for finger spacing, I guess I would make the spacing match the width of space between the limbs. Without seeing your bow and knowing exactly what you have in mind it's hard to give you a definite number.


----------



## Race59

*Binding*



dat201 said:


> One word of advice for those using the Bessy be sure the use some sort of lube on the pipe ,mine was sticking and caused the roll pin to come out when relaxing the press.greased the pipe and changed the pin and it works fine.:thumbs_up


This seems to be one of the biggest issues using pipe clamps. That's why I modified my original design to the one I posted at the beginning of this thread. Welding the short length of 1 inch pipe to the fingers solve the problem completely. I really wanted to keep it a "no weld" design, but I wasn't happy with the performance. It worked, but not well enough for my liking.

Pipe clamps, of any brand don't seem to have the most exact tolerances.... I believe this is the major issue causing binding.

I use a dry bicycle chain wax for lubrication. It doesn't make a mess and get all over everything.... Works great!!!


----------



## Gene1

Those that are concern about the bow poping out should either make the pockets a little deeper. 

When you are pressing the bow, slide the clamp tight to the bow limb, check the position of the limbs on your fingers and slide them over until the bow cams are not touching the fingers. Turn the handle a 1/2 turn and again check the fingers fro clearance, turn the handle again 1/2 or full turn and wiggle the bow LIGHTLY to see how tight the fingers are holding you bow. You have to use your common sense to see if it will work for you. I saw no problem with mine. I did finally have to grease the clamp because the binding issue did come up. Once greased it was fine.


----------



## 1955

Race59 said:


> I use a dry bicycle chain wax for lubrication. It doesn't make a mess and get all over everything.... Works great!!!


White Lightning?


----------



## 1955

My Maxxis 35 is a past parallel limb design and it works fine...but it's not as past parallel as some bows are. You really have to use your own judgment. At first I thought that the Maxxis might present a problem...now a bow like the PSE Axe's are WAY past parallel and I'm not sure they would work with this press.


----------



## chinnookbuster

I got an Outback with the limb mounted suppressors, how are you guys pressing your Mathews bows with this type of a press.Any suggestions, I gotta make one of these!!!!!


----------



## Mohunter46

chinnookbuster said:


> I got an Outback with the limb mounted suppressors, how are you guys pressing your Mathews bows with this type of a press.Any suggestions, I gotta make one of these!!!!!


I am also kinda worried about this myself. It looks like ill be getting a z7 and im not to familier with mathews bows yet but it looks like they mount the suppressors with screws through the limbs at the limb tips and i wasent sure if that would cause a problem. Anyone know?


----------



## Race59

nolucklarry said:


> Any one tried this on an X-Force bow?
> 
> I now have the Pipe clamp and just need to make the fingers. Looks like the fingers will only be able to contact the last 1 inch of limb because of the past parallel. Just wondering that the bow might seem to want to slip up out of th clamp because the limb tips arn't pressing against the finger.


Found the post pressing an X-force.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1055159275&postcount=99



1955 said:


> White Lightning?


I've used both Pedro's and White Lightning. I like the Pedro's a little better, and I believe it's cheaper too.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1055562892&postcount=256



chinnookbuster said:


> I got an Outback with the limb mounted suppressors, how are you guys pressing your Mathews bows with this type of a press.Any suggestions, I gotta make one of these!!!!!





Mohunter46 said:


> I am also kinda worried about this myself. It looks like ill be getting a z7 and im not to familier with mathews bows yet but it looks like they mount the suppressors with screws through the limbs at the limb tips and i wasent sure if that would cause a problem. Anyone know?


Here's a post discussing this problem.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1055431505&postcount=188


----------



## chinnookbuster

Thanks for answering those questions....cant wait to build it.


----------



## Neuralgia

this should ALWAYS be in page 1


----------



## BLFD1

Tfl


----------



## BrowninG77

Alright! I'm getting ready to put a new set of strings on my Hoyt Trykon and I don't have to worry about where to take my bow to put them on. Thanks guys. I used maple for fingers. Works like a champ!


----------



## Dave1004

I am also putting one together and I purchased the pipe clamp from Harbor Freight. Can someone tell me what thread size the clamps have...and where I can find a longer threaded rod? I would like to have the ability to remove my limbs. Thanks


----------



## Gene1

BrowninG77 said:


> Alright! I'm getting ready to put a new set of strings on my Hoyt Trykon and I don't have to worry about where to take my bow to put them on. Thanks guys. I used maple for fingers. Works like a champ!



Good idea to setup your press by the washer & dryer. That way you can wash the string first before installing while wet and putting the string under tension to dry . Only joking.

Nice job.


----------



## tonnanitro

*just atgging for later*

:wink:


----------



## Thornearcher

any problems with sliding? compressed energy has to go some where. Have you thought about a strap to hold it to the pipe? 

Great idea. Love the concept. gets me looking at my pipe clamps in the garage


----------



## RugerRedhawk

Maxima slinger said:


> any problems with sliding? compressed energy has to go some where. Have you thought about a strap to hold it to the pipe?
> 
> Great idea. Love the concept. gets me looking at my pipe clamps in the garage


I thought about this at first too, but these pics set me at ease: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1055388876&postcount=181


----------



## 1955

Maxima slinger said:


> any problems with sliding? compressed energy has to go some where. Have you thought about a strap to hold it to the pipe?


Not necessarily. If you've never used these type of clamps before, they work kind of like a Chinese Finger Trap...the more pressure you put on them, the more they hold. One report quoted here says they will hold 1200 pounds. They're used extensively in woodworking for just about every type of glue up. In fact, you need to be careful with them, as they will crush even the hardest woods if you're not gentle with them.

Stick a piece of something in them and try to compress them to the point of making them slip...good luck!


----------



## 1955

Dave1004 said:


> I am also putting one together and I purchased the pipe clamp from Harbor Freight. Can someone tell me what thread size the clamps have...and where I can find a longer threaded rod? I would like to have the ability to remove my limbs. Thanks


I'm not sure where in this thread it is, but someone came up with a good method for making it possible to open the press up wide enough to remove limbs. There are a ton of posts to go through, but it's in there somewhere...

It's well worth going through this whole thread, very informative.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Dave1004 said:


> I am also putting one together and I purchased the pipe clamp from Harbor Freight. Can someone tell me what thread size the clamps have...and where I can find a longer threaded rod? I would like to have the ability to remove my limbs. Thanks


See Post # 193.

I have repeated his post below.



Originally Posted by 
SITS IN TREES 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 3,765

OK guy's heres mine, 
yea it's a little crude but it works GREAT!. 

I made the fingers out of 3/4 oak, 
also made the oak a little big so the press stands securely on it's own. 

Also replaced the crank handle with threaded rod long enough 
to make completely relaxing a bow for limb change no problem. 

I just crank the rod with a ratcheting gear wrench and 
put a nut on the force side which I hold with an open end wrench.

Also chopped the fingers off a leather glove and 
slipped them over the oak fingers to protect the bows finish 
while being pressed....oh it also works on my crossbow!!


----------



## nolucklarry

*Fingers for sale*

Ok, putting out a feeler here. I have someone that will make these fingers out of 3/8 steel. 

How many would be interested in buying the fingers (without the small attachment holes) for $30 TYD. Or the clamp kit (minus the bar which you would get) with the fingers attached to the faces ready to go with your bar for $50 TYD. 

Please PM me with your interests. Thanks.


----------



## RugerRedhawk

nolucklarry said:


> Ok, putting out a feeler here. I have someone that will make these fingers out of 3/8 steel.
> 
> How many would be interested in buying the fingers (without the small attachment holes) for $30 TYD. Or the clamp kit (minus the bar which you would get) with the fingers attached to the faces ready to go with your bar for $50 TYD.
> 
> Please PM me with your interests. Thanks.


A smokin' deal if you ask me. It might be best to make one up and show pics of it first. I already have mine done.


----------



## CantCMe

Love this idea. But i was thinking......not sure if it would work or not. Anyway, what if you cut the fingers so that they are L shaped? That way the bar would not be directly above the string so that it would be similar to the EZ press................Just a thought:wink:


----------



## hunter56

*great idea ..awesome job !!*

a great idea! ..liked alot ..heres to affordability ..  great posts here also AT has the best info !!!!


----------



## don h

great little press. I like the longer threaded rod idea. hope whoever is making and selling items or parts of this has talked to the inventor before hand. was kinda his idea.


----------



## 1955

don h said:


> great little press. I like the longer threaded rod idea. hope whoever is making and selling items or parts of this has talked to the inventor before hand. was kinda his idea.


If you're talking about Race59, then he has already said that he has no intentions of making or selling these and he posted his for all to use. Since then people have been making different versions of his press using different materials. It's been an open discussion ever since, with people posting their own versions for all to see and use.

It just looks like there are people out there that may not have access to the equipment needed to make their own, but want to save money also.


----------



## don h

yep have read the thread and know what has been said. I was just putting that out there becasue it seems to me the right thing to do.


----------



## Dodgedude

zmax hunter said:


> What if you bought 2 sets of the clamps and put the screw on each end, more travel. i guess you would need different pipes for different bows. Great looking work! very professional!


Not a bad idea except pony brand clamps come with one threaded end, for the hand screw, and one sliding end. If you wanted to use two hand screw pieces, your pipe would have to be cut to exact size and threaded on both ends. Not impossible, but requires tools most of us don't own. Pipe threaders can be rented but each bow would have to have it's own press pipe.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Dodgedude said:


> Not a bad idea except pony brand clamps come with one threaded end, for the hand screw, and one sliding end. If you wanted to use two hand screw pieces, your pipe would have to be cut to exact size and threaded on both ends. Not impossible, but requires tools most of us don't own. Pipe threaders can be rented but each bow would have to have it's own press pipe.


Irwin makes pipe clamps that require no threaded ends on the pipe.










Just need to drill a hole on the handle piece,
so you can slide the clamping piece
anywhere on the pipe.


----------



## CutTheLoop

nuts&bolts said:


> See Post # 193.
> 
> I have repeated his post below.
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by
> SITS IN TREES
> Join Date: Oct 2006
> Location: upstate NY
> Posts: 3,765
> 
> OK guy's heres mine,
> yea it's a little crude but it works GREAT!.
> 
> I made the fingers out of 3/4 oak,
> also made the oak a little big so the press stands securely on it's own.
> 
> Also replaced the crank handle with threaded rod long enough
> to make completely relaxing a bow for limb change no problem.
> 
> I just crank the rod with a ratcheting gear wrench and
> put a nut on the force side which I hold with an open end wrench.
> 
> Also chopped the fingers off a leather glove and
> slipped them over the oak fingers to protect the bows finish
> while being pressed....oh it also works on my crossbow!!


Nice!!

So has anyone had a wreck using wood yet?

Seems the simplest way to go... but possibly the scariest too.

Awesome thread OP! :thumbs_up


----------



## nuts&bolts

CutTheLoop said:


> Nice!!
> 
> So has anyone had a wreck using wood yet?
> 
> Seems the simplest way to go... but possibly the scariest too.
> 
> Awesome thread OP! :thumbs_up


I used red oak on mine,
but glued two pieces together
to get 1.5-inches thick for each end.


----------



## jim p

I like the irwin clamp. I drilled out the head clamp so that it would slide down the pipe and then by drilling holes in the pipe and using an allen wrench for a stop I was able to completely disassemble my bow. In an earlier post I posted some pictures.


----------



## CutTheLoop

nuts&bolts said:


> I used red oak on mine,
> but glued two pieces together
> to get 1.5-inches thick for each end.


Thanks.

I just happen to have a few 4x4" oak posts out in my shop. Will see how they work out.


----------



## 1955

CutTheLoop said:


> Nice!!
> 
> So has anyone had a wreck using wood yet?
> 
> Seems the simplest way to go...*Bingo*
> 
> but possibly the scariest too. *Not*


----------



## don h

little more then 20 bucks but didn't have the drill bits or the flat stock steel laying around.great thread and idea, works like a champ on my dads split limb bear.


----------



## Anynamewilldo

CantCMe said:


> Love this idea. But i was thinking......not sure if it would work or not. Anyway, what if you cut the fingers so that they are L shaped? That way the bar would not be directly above the string so that it would be similar to the EZ press................Just a thought:wink:


Can you post a drawing of what your thinking? Ive been watching this thread for someone to make one that way as thats how I prefur to press.


----------



## nolucklarry

*Finger ready*

Got the finger available. Check here. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1057018001#post1057018001


----------



## nolucklarry

Bump for those wanting fingers


----------



## sgd

Just finished mine thanks for the great ideas


----------



## don h

wow SGD, thanks for not taking it to the next level or anything...really good job looks great.


----------



## olinLA

great Idea fantastic information... have searched the thread... but have a question I have bought all the equipment and am trying to figure out if this will work on a Bowtech Tribute 06 -beyond parrallel? am thinking I will have to use steel vs wood to slip between the knob on the cam and limbs? 
any one beat me to it? any ideas, any help woujld be appreciated


----------



## dustyvarmint

olinLA said:


> great Idea fantastic information... have searched the thread... but have a question I have bought all the equipment and am trying to figure out if this will work on a Bowtech Tribute 06 -beyond parrallel? am thinking I will have to use steel vs wood to slip between the knob on the cam and limbs?
> any one beat me to it? any ideas, any help woujld be appreciated


I assume the "knob" you are talking about is the draw stop/s? If so, I just take it off my Bowtech SWAT (one stop on top cam) each time I press my bow. I mark the location with a pencil and return it to the same spot each time. A minor inconvenience, but not near as bad has having to back off limb bolts each time.

good luck, dv


----------



## olinLA

dustyvarmint said:


> I assume the "knob" you are talking about is the draw stop/s? If so, I just take it off my Bowtech SWAT (one stop on top cam) each time I press my bow. I mark the location with a pencil and return it to the same spot each time. A minor inconvenience, but not near as bad has having to back off limb bolts each time.
> 
> good luck, dv


perfect thanks very much really answered 2 questions in one I don't have to back off limb bolts....and I can use wood if necessary


----------



## Grummpy Bear

Looks great SGD, want to make me one, HA HA.


----------



## sgd

Thanks, I would but I'm out of scrap steel.


----------



## jrp

I'm so curious to how the tension reliefs is with the handle? How do you go about relieving this to take the bow out????
I'm going to make one soon


----------



## 1955

jrp said:


> I'm so curious to how the tension reliefs is with the handle? How do you go about relieving this to take the bow out????
> I'm going to make one soon


Are you saying...with all the strings removed or with the bow still completely assembled?


----------



## nolucklarry

*Press fingers*

Don't forget to check here for the fingers if you arn't able to make your own.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1142415


----------



## ruttnwapati

*Race 59 Press*

Race 59 I admire your ingenuity and workmanship. Everything you have made 
and posted is top notch. Definately taking things to the next level.


----------



## Race59

*Thank you*



ruttnwapati said:


> Race 59 I admire your ingenuity and workmanship. Everything you have made
> and posted is top notch. Definately taking things to the next level.


Thanks for your compliments..... I really appreciate it.
The projects that you have posted are very impressive as well. Your total WorkStation is brilliant.


I would also like to thank all those who have posted photos of their presses and all the other helpful suggestions and answers that everyone has so freely contributed to this thread. I appreciate your efforts, and I'm sure many others do as well.


----------



## bjtc_brian

ToxArch1 said:


> Here's my version based on a T-Bar clamp. I actually had to buy 2 so I could use the screw off both. This way, I can press the bow using the right hand clamp, and then un-press the bow to change limbs using the right and left hand clamps.
> 
> I mounted it on a folding metal saw horse. I bought a pair of these from ALDI for $25.
> 
> I used the other one for a vise and arrow saw.
> 
> Thanks Race
> 
> View attachment 673665
> 
> 
> View attachment 673666
> 
> 
> View attachment 673667
> 
> 
> View attachment 673668
> 
> 
> View attachment 673669


Which t-bar clamp is that, and how easy is it to move the ends?


----------



## Boogiemandan

*What degree ?*

The photos show the press great. I was wondering what degree of bend did you put in the "fingers"
I have all the stuff, but need the bend degree. This is so simple even I can do it, but don't want mess up on a small thing like this.
Great work.:smile:


----------



## RugerRedhawk

Boogiemandan said:


> The photos show the press great. I was wondering what degree of bend did you put in the "fingers"
> I have all the stuff, but need the bend degree. This is so simple even I can do it, but don't want mess up on a small thing like this.
> Great work.:smile:


I didn't put any bend in mine.


----------



## blackjack21

anyone use this to press an elite with dual stops on cams?


----------



## nolucklarry

*Fingers*

Don't forget if you need the fingers to complete your own press see here

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1142415


----------



## Neuralgia

this thread should ALWAYS be on 1st page


----------



## Mohunter46

I just wanted to say thanks to Race59 for sharing his awsome idea. I just got my press done this afternoon and it works great! Im really happy with it.


----------



## theedz

Obviously we can change the strings and cables with this and accessorize the strings with what is needed, i.e. peep, whiskers, ect. A question I have because I have never done it, is can you change a cam on a bow while still pressed? Or do you have to release the press all the way and have one of the longer shaft ones?


----------



## buckmaster27

bought all the stuff to build one today but only found 3/4 inch oak so do think it would be ok to glue 2 pieces together to make 1 1/2 inch thick?im just woundring if it will be as strong as one solid piece of 1 1/2 and if it will be strong enough?if so should use wood glue or a stronger adhesive?


----------



## DaJester

buckmaster27 said:


> bought all the stuff to build one today but only found 3/4 inch oak so do think it would be ok to glue 2 pieces together to make 1 1/2 inch thick?im just woundring if it will be as strong as one solid piece of 1 1/2 and if it will be strong enough?if so should use wood glue or a stronger adhesive?


I did mine with a single 3/4" piece of oak and it is just fine...


----------



## buckmaster27

so 3/4 is enough?


----------



## nuts&bolts

buckmaster27 said:


> bought all the stuff to build one today but only found 3/4 inch oak so do think it would be ok to glue 2 pieces together to make 1 1/2 inch thick?im just woundring if it will be as strong as one solid piece of 1 1/2 and if it will be strong enough?if so should use wood glue or a stronger adhesive?


I also used 3/4-inch pieces of red oak.

I used yellow carpenter's glue
to glue up two pieces,
to make a single 1-1/2 inch thick piece.

Yes,
a glued up piece
will be just as strong as a single thickness piece..

as long as both 3/4-inch pieces are dead flat,
and
you use more than enough clamps,
and let it sit overnight.


----------



## Flyboy718

What is NPT pipe and where can I pick it up? Does Lowe's carry it? How long of a piece do I need to get for this press?


----------



## nuts&bolts

Flyboy718 said:


> What is NPT pipe and where can I pick it up? Does Lowe's carry it? How long of a piece do I need to get for this press?


Yes, Lowe's will have it.


Go to the plumbing section,
and look for 3/4-inch black pipe.


If you plan to press a 43-inch ATA bow,
then 5 ft length or 6 ft length would be nice.

This way, you have the option to completely take apart
the bow, and relax and remove the limbs....(full teardown).


If you only plan to take off the cables and bowstring,
then just 1 ft longer than your bow ATA will work.


----------



## Flyboy718

Thanks!


----------



## seespotrun

:tongue:bump


----------



## Milhouse

I bought a T bar type clamp to make mine the other day ($34 @ Menard's), I haven't made the fingers yet, but before I do, I have a question. Has anyone pressed a Monster 7 in one of these presses? I was just looking at the limb tips on my M7, and it seems like I may have trouble getting this press to work with the M7 limbs having that extra little "fixture" bolted to the top of the limb. Any info would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Flyboy718

nuts&bolts said:


> Yes, Lowe's will have it.
> 
> 
> Go to the plumbing section,
> and look for 3/4-inch black pipe.
> 
> 
> If you plan to press a 43-inch ATA bow,
> then 5 ft length or 6 ft length would be nice.
> 
> This way, you have the option to completely take apart
> the bow, and relax and remove the limbs....(full teardown).
> 
> 
> If you only plan to take off the cables and bowstring,
> then just 1 ft longer than your bow ATA will work.


I got my pipe at Lowe's today and my fingers are in the mail! I saw the black pipe and then saw the galvanized next to it...so I got 3/4" galvanized pipe instead of the black, is this OK to use?


----------



## Flyboy718

ttt


----------



## nolucklarry

I've always used the black for any pipe clamp (I use them for woodwork too).
I think the galvanized "may" slip. I can't be sure. 

Anyone else have an opinion on that?


----------



## jim p

From what I have heard the galvanized pipe will be much more likely to let the clamps slip. I have just been using the black pipe and mine has not even moved while pressing a bow. 

When I made my fingers, I made them 1 1/16" wide. This gave plenty of room to work around the cams but the gap was a little wide and did not catch all the way across the limb tips. It worked fine but I wanted to get more contact with the limb tips so I made another set of fingers with a width of 15/16". The new fingers are made of 1/8" aluminum and are bolted in front of the steel fingers. I have not used the press with the closer spacing fingers since I am letting the plasti dip coating dry but I am expecting it to be even better now. If you have some narrow limbs you may want to make you some fingers like these also.


----------



## Flyboy718

jim p said:


> From what I have heard the galvanized pipe will be much more likely to let the clamps slip. I have just been using the black pipe and mine has not even moved while pressing a bow.
> 
> When I made my fingers, I made them 1 1/16" wide. This gave plenty of room to work around the cams but the gap was a little wide and did not catch all the way across the limb tips. It worked fine but I wanted to get more contact with the limb tips so I made another set of fingers with a width of 15/16". The new fingers are made of 1/8" aluminum and are bolted in front of the steel fingers. I have not used the press with the closer spacing fingers since I am letting the plasti dip coating dry but I am expecting it to be even better now. If you have some narrow limbs you may want to make you some fingers like these also.


Anything special I need to do to the black iron pipe before pressing a bow with it...sure is sticky, greasy and dirty. Just need to know the steps I need to take to fix up the black iron so I can press my bow.


----------



## jim p

I took a knife and just scraped most of the black paint and dirt off. It would probably work without cleaning it at all. If you go back several pages you can see some pictures of what my press looks like. I just looked at my press and the pipe is cleaned only on the end where the screw is located the other stop end is still painted like it was from the store. I wanted the end with the screw to be lubricated so that the moving part could slide good. So I guess that I was trying to get the grip to slip but it didn't work. Really I was trying to get the slide to move freely so that I would not have any binding as I was letting the pressure off the press.


----------



## RatherBArchery

Stay away from galvanized or stainless pipe unless you use a set collar as a back up. Also, do not remove to much of the scale from the black pipe that helps to hold the clamps. Just use acetone to remove the oil.
BTW, I have come up with an idea for adjustable fingers (both spacing and tilt) for this style press. Once I test my design I may be selling them  Hopefully more news by next week!!??


----------



## madarchery

I found the info many will want. Just a heads up to make your project easier. Plus someone can now make arms with this format all set up ready to bolt on. For those looking for a new career

Rockler part # 30921 $16.99 basic bar clamp wide foot but predrilled pads


" part # 37573 39.99 positive locking aluminum rectangle bar clamp with predrilled pads


----------



## Sully_pa

Sweet I'm gonna try to make one for a crossbow.


----------



## Neuralgia

again, this should always be in page 1.


----------



## Chimwaa

*Very Nice.*

All your ideas and designs are sweet. Thanks for sharing your ideas. My dad has a few old school presses made totally from woods that work on the older bows. I will definatly show him these ideas.


----------



## mason79

Milhouse said:


> I bought a T bar type clamp to make mine the other day ($34 @ Menard's), I haven't made the fingers yet, but before I do, I have a question. Has anyone pressed a Monster 7 in one of these presses? I was just looking at the limb tips on my M7, and it seems like I may have trouble getting this press to work with the M7 limbs having that extra little "fixture" bolted to the top of the limb. Any info would be greatly appreciated.


i would also like to know if this will work for the m7. ive been wanting a press for awhile, just dont want to spend alot of money on one.


----------



## gusDuenas

man, that looks, awfully nice!!! do you mind to share with me the planes, I would like to give this to one of my church friends, he knows about this thing in order to have one...


----------



## dso970

has anyone tried to press a Destroyer with this set-up, and has anyone had a bow "slip out" or torque out of this style of press? i would hate to ruin a 900.00 bow. if this works for me, it would save me a s#@t load of money over an ez press.


----------



## garrickt

nuts&bolts said:


> I also used 3/4-inch pieces of red oak.
> 
> I used yellow carpenter's glue
> to glue up two pieces,
> to make a single 1-1/2 inch thick piece.
> 
> Yes,
> a glued up piece
> will be just as strong as a single thickness piece..
> 
> as long as both 3/4-inch pieces are dead flat,
> and
> you use more than enough clamps,
> and let it sit overnight.


I'd be careful using oak. The grain pattern leads to some weak spots that may not be visible. I would use HARD (not soft) Maple first then Hickory after that. Go to a real lumber yard and get 5/4 or 6/4 for a little wider finger, no glue.


----------



## Flyboy718

Does the black pipe supposed to thread all the way to the end of the clamp flush with the outside of the clamp? see pic and see how my pipe stops like maybe 1/4" from being flush. Mine is threaded in good and haven't had an issue pressing two bows so far...just wondering though.

Also, what is the best way to go about putting a little bend in the fingers? How do you make sure that you bend each finger the exact same amount?


----------



## sketter

:thumbs_up:thumbs_up Great post , Great project , Great pics ,Great ..........:darkbeer:


----------



## jgreg

I made mine out of 1 inch cherry wood also used galvanized pipe pressed 1 bow so far actually did it twice I had nothing wrapped on the fingers and it still did not slip 

If their is any interest in the Cherry wood fingers/ 1 inch thick I can do them for 15.00 tyd I will post pics Monday if enough interest
Thanks Jim


----------



## Cheetn Death

:thumbs_upThis is a great idea for a bowpress and one at a price we can afford! I have but one suggestion for improvement would be to rotate the setup 90degrees so that one would have better access to work on the bow. Also following Dan's pictures with the holder I would invert his idea to more better replicate current bowpresses selling for hundreds of dollars more! Thanks again for a great idea.


----------



## My2Sons

Has anyone figured out adjustable fingers yet???


----------



## bear attack

*press*

could this press a bear attack with the preloaded limbs or not


----------



## Blue Tick

Does anyone have pics of one they have built that will fully relax their bow? Could you tell me what you used to achieve this. Building mine in the next day or so.


----------



## eemer

Flyboy718 said:


> Does the black pipe supposed to thread all the way to the end of the clamp flush with the outside of the clamp? see pic and see how my pipe stops like maybe 1/4" from being flush. Mine is threaded in good and haven't had an issue pressing two bows so far...just wondering though.
> 
> Also, what is the best way to go about putting a little bend in the fingers? How do you make sure that you bend each finger the exact same amount?


It is a Pipe Thread, therefore there is a taper to it, so the pipe "wedges" itself inot the cast piece aof a very secure joint. I believe it is "Standard" for the pipe not to go completely through the cast piece. It should be plenty sturdy for what you're using it for.


----------



## JOC

This thread was a great Idea, I just built one and it works great.


----------



## jim p

Blue Tick said:


> Does anyone have pics of one they have built that will fully relax their bow? Could you tell me what you used to achieve this. Building mine in the next day or so.


Go back several pages and you can see my press that allows me to fully relax my bow. If you have any questions, I will try to answer them.


----------



## 1955

*Just checking in...*

I built this press a few months ago and never used it (well, I pressed my bow, but only to see if it would work). Well, I recently built a draw board also. This motivated me to clean out my third bedroom/computer/junk room! So now, instead of having just enough room to get to the computer, I've got a computer/bow room now. There's a 4' Rubbermaid table and a desk that I can work on now. I actually used both of them recently to adjust my Maxxis 35, which led me to find out that the DL on my bow is not the 27 inches it's supposed to be, but 27.5 inches!

Thanks again Race.


----------



## Skin&Bones

Pressing a bow as shown in several picture on this thread it seems to be done at the very tip of the limbs. Is that a good thing? Seems like it would be better to do it down 3-4" just under the cams or am I looking at it in the wrong perspective? Do you have to lower the poundage of the bow before you press it? By just pressing at the tip of the limbs could it damage the limbs because there is no support further down the limb? I'm confused on all these presse's because they all say different things and show different methods. Can this press be used to change a cam if needed?


----------



## JDS-1

Has anybody had any limbs crack from pressing their bow using this press? Only pressing at the tips seems odd to me. I built one of theses a long time ago and presses my bow to add a peep sight and change a string, 1 week later both my limbs cracked while I was shooting. Thinking about making another one but hesitant because of what happened last time. But it seems so simple. I admit though I didn't lower the poundage before I pressed it. Could that of been the problem?

Anybody have "any" problems or issues with this press?

(No disrespect to anybody so don't take it that way)


----------



## beaverman

If anything I would think pressing from the limb tips would be less likley to cause damage since it takes less force to press at the tips then it would below the cams.


----------



## gusDuenas

how can I get the fingers are they already made or I have to make them?

gus


----------



## shamlin

By the looks of this style of DIY press....it won't work with a Bowtech Destroyer because of the new axle system that sits atop the limbs. Am I correct in assuming this?


----------



## nicklentini1

Great Idea!!!!!!!Thanks


----------



## gbear

JDS-1 said:


> Has anybody had any limbs crack from pressing their bow using this press? Only pressing at the tips seems odd to me. I built one of theses a long time ago and presses my bow to add a peep sight and change a string, 1 week later both my limbs cracked while I was shooting. Thinking about making another one but hesitant because of what happened last time. But it seems so simple. I admit though I didn't lower the poundage before I pressed it. Could that of been the problem?
> 
> Anybody have "any" problems or issues with this press?
> 
> (No disrespect to anybody so don't take it that way)


Don't all the linear presses work this way?


----------



## FB10X

Bloody great idea mate!


----------



## 1955

Skin&Bones said:


> Pressing a bow as shown in several picture on this thread it seems to be done at the very tip of the limbs. Is that a good thing? Seems like it would be better to do it down 3-4" just under the cams or am I looking at it in the wrong perspective? Do you have to lower the poundage of the bow before you press it? By just pressing at the tip of the limbs could it damage the limbs because there is no support further down the limb? I'm confused on all these presse's because they all say different things and show different methods. Can this press be used to change a cam if needed?





JDS-1 said:


> Has anybody had any limbs crack from pressing their bow using this press? Only pressing at the tips seems odd to me. I built one of theses a long time ago and presses my bow to add a peep sight and change a string, 1 week later both my limbs cracked while I was shooting. Thinking about making another one but hesitant because of what happened last time. But it seems so simple. I admit though I didn't lower the poundage before I pressed it. Could that of been the problem?
> 
> Anybody have "any" problems or issues with this press?
> 
> (No disrespect to anybody so don't take it that way)


The cams are out at the ends of the limbs...are they not? Every time you draw back your bow, you're compressing the limbs from the same place as this press does.

Limbs are basically springs, right? Using the full length of the limb to compress them will take less energy/force to bend them. Just cut a spring in half and you'll see that it becomes twice as strong. Again, if we couldn't press our bows at the end of the limb, they wouldn't put the cam out there either.


----------



## JDS-1

1955 said:


> The cams are out at the ends of the limbs...are they not? Every time you draw back your bow, you're compressing the limbs from the same place as this press does.
> 
> Limbs are basically springs, right? Using the full length of the limb to compress them will take less energy/force to bend them. Just cut a spring in half and you'll see that it becomes twice as strong. Again, if we couldn't press our bows at the end of the limb, they wouldn't put the cam out there either.


Makes sence. Thanks for the imput. Looks like I may have to build another press.


----------



## trelson

What great idea my only fear would be with my luck the bow would slip upwards and come flying off there but I will say it again what a great idea and nice work


----------



## JDS-1

Those of you that made the fingers out of wood I have a question for you.

*What kind of wood did you use?
*Do you need the extra piece of tube that fits over the original pipe?
*If you need the extra piece, did you just cut the hole bigger in the wood so it goes threw the wood?

Thanks......JDS-1


----------



## IBOHunt3D

I built one using 1 3/4 thick cherry. I did not use the extra tube, and having just used it to adjust the peep on my Pearson Z34, no problems. The only problem I have with mine, is that my pipe section isn't quite long enough to press my 41" (ata) spot bow, and that's something that is very easy to change. The pipe clamp press works great, and is about the cheapest way to get a really good bow press.

CG


----------



## catskilljohn

This is a great idea...thanks for sharing! CJ


----------



## bowfishe

Nice


----------



## badger109

I'm gonna get a new bow, and I don't think I'd wanna press it w/ my cheapo homemade ratchet style press. I'm just wondering, if I get one of the bows with (past) parallel, heavily preloaded limbs (Axe, Attack, M7, etc), how well would a clamp type press work with them and how should I build the fingers (I'm thinking straight or even slightly bent or curved out? I know that the fellow selling the fingers/clamps had it pictured pressing an an xforce of some type, JW if anyone else has any experience with this type of bow. Anybody build one with adjustable fingers yet? How about any opinions about the clamp type vs the square jack type DIY presses? Thanks.


----------



## pointysticks

i have a bunch of carpenter clamps in the garage!! this is cool...this thread is huge. are the fingers an off the shelf item? or were they cut out?


----------



## bow shooter

thats slicker than a mules bag


----------



## Flyin6

I just pressed a Maxxis 35 and does a great job on my Ultra Elite. I love mine. Thanks for the idea Race59!


----------



## HCH

Pretty cool Race:thumbs_up


----------



## SoutherntierBowhuntr

*pipes too tight?*

Hey Race59...nice job and thanks for starting this thread...I picked up a piece of 1" black pipe and when I used a caliper to check inside measurement for the 1" blackpipe I get 1 1/32 and the outside diameter of the 3/4 blackpipe is 1 1/16 ...I would think that even after removing the inside seam on the blackpipe, the 3/4 blackpipe outside diameter would be too big to slide into the 1" blackpipe...what did you use for the short piece of pipe that you attached to your fingers? I saw that you polished your 3/4 pipe to get that nice clean looking section, but it seems to me that even polishing the blackpipe wont reduce the outside diameter the needed 1/32 of an inch in order to make the 3/4 fit inside the 1".


----------



## jim p

What you have is going to be a pain to get to work. I would go back to the hardware store and take a piece of their 3/4" pipe and test fit into the other pipes which they have available and then pick the one that fits the best. I used a piece of steel tubing from the frame of an old bicycle for my outer tube.

Good luck with your project.


----------



## SoutherntierBowhuntr

Thanks jim p...race59 also pm'd me with similar advice and explained that these sections of pipe can be different from piece to piece in roundness as well as being crushed or criimped by threading and/or the cutting process, I should have thought of this myself :embarres:... he also suggested I bring my calipers with me to check the different sections... but the simplest and quickest way will be to take a 3/4 piece and try inserting it in a 1" piece in the store. thanks again.


----------



## JWAG

I like the idea of these cheap but effective bow press


----------



## NEWYORKHILLBILLY

has anyone come up with a idea to get more travel to remove limbs?


----------



## SoutherntierBowhuntr

There are a couple of ideas...one showing the actual press that uses two of the screw ends ...one on each side ...to accompish this back in this thread...and another that describes using a pin to walk the screw end of these types of presses back in order to achieve the same results.


----------



## nolucklarry

*Great idea*

Lets keep this at the top. Gotto sell the rest of my fingers. Told to become a sponsor or quit. Don't make enough on these so selling out. Get them while I got them. 

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1142415


----------



## SoutherntierBowhuntr

*Cast iron or cast steel?*

Are these clamps made of cast iron or cast steel? I bought the irwin clamp and was talking it over with a welder friend of mine and he said that if these clamps are made of cast steel, then they can be easily welded. He said not to try welding if they are cast iron but cast steel would be fine. I noticed that one of the guys who made his seemed to have welded the short piece of pipe directly to his clamp. Post #222. He said he welded the short piece of 1" rollbar tubing to the clamp...if you can weld the 1" rollbar tubing to the clamp...why not the fingers?


----------



## nolucklarry

He may have said that, but I think he welded to the fingers. All the clamps I have seen are cast iron.


----------



## SoutherntierBowhuntr

Post 221 shows a picture of the press he made and it sure looks like its connected to the clamp and not the fingers above it. He describes welding it to the clamp in the next post.


----------



## jim p

Post #385 shows how I modified the clamps so that I could completely take my bow down.


----------



## SoutherntierBowhuntr

*Here's mine.*

Finally finished it. Had to buy paint, screws, clamp and short piece of clear plastic tubing...came out around $20.00.


----------



## SoutherntierBowhuntr

*Pressing a Mathews?*

I shoot a Mathews bow and I had to remove the string suppressors before pressing...there seemed to be a larger gap between the fingers and the limb tip without the suppressor than was explained in an earlier post after setting it up in the press...but its pretty easy to take them off prior to pressing the bow.


----------



## Race59

*Nice job!!!*



SoutherntierBowhuntr said:


> Finally finished it. Had to buy paint, screws, clamp and short piece of clear plastic tubing...came out around $20.00.


Looks clean and professional.

Thanks for posting!


----------



## SoutherntierBowhuntr

Appreciate that...I just want to say thanks for starting this thread and for all the advice from everybody who took the time to contribute.


----------



## cheifredman

has anybody tried pressing an alien x yet. it seems that the draw stop on the top cam would get in the way?


----------



## Monks

*Strother*

Read this post front to back. Anyone press an 80 lb Stother yet? Off to gather materials tomorrow to build.


----------



## JDS-1

cheifredman said:


> has anybody tried pressing an alien x yet. it seems that the draw stop on the top cam would get in the way?


It does. You have to take draw stops off for it to work from my experience..


----------



## cheifredman

alright well since i can press my bow now. im off to lowes. can anybody recommend board measurements i should get im going to get either red oak cherry or maple whatever fits my budget. if lowes has a clamp ill probably get it their too.


----------



## nolucklarry

*Fingers for sale*

Last post for the fingers as after the 1st of July, AT requires a sponsorship to sell multiple items. As I make very little on these, I will no longer have them for sale. At least until I run out of current stock. So check with me for any leftovers and thanks to everyone thats ordered. Hope you make good use of your inexpensive bow press.


----------



## Z-Rider

Awesome idea!


----------



## crazy4hunting

ive pressed my sr71 70 pounds, and my 70 pound tribute with no troubles, i am using nolucklarrys fingers, works great. i have to loosen the draw stops and move them while pressing, a little hassle but easy enuff. very cheap, and effective press.


----------



## Mapes3

Thats a great Bow press! much less complicated than others, and pretty inexpensive. Great job


----------



## Bullet_Bob

You need to sell the jaws.


----------



## Jellio

Mines still performing great if anyone has any questions feel free to PM me.


----------



## BowHunter0905

Im gonna have to make myself one of those.


----------



## RatpigHoosier

*Easy & Functional*

I just wanted to give this thread a bump to the first page. 

I just built one yesterday using oak instead of the metal fingers. It was easy to build and looks like it will be a great tool. I haven't pressed my bow yet but I have a set of strings from JBK coming any day now so it looks like that will be my press's first test, I guess.

Thanks, Race, for such a great design!

Be safe!


----------



## sits in trees

used mine on my diamond just last weekend, still works great!!


----------



## CaptPete

I finally got mine built and I'm having a couple of issues with it. Mine keeps binding when I'm trying to press the bow & when I releasing the pressure. It was binding so bad I couldn't press the bow & I had fight to get it loose enough to get the bow back out of the press. I'm guessing I'm going to need to add the collar to it. I made mine with a longer screw so I can take my bow completely down...don't know if that is part of the problem or not. 

Also do I need to bend my fingers(NoLuckLarry metal fingers) in some toward the middle of the press? The bow looks stable in the fingers, but was just wondering if it was necessary and would maybe help with binding also.


Kevin


----------



## Race59

CaptPete said:


> I finally got mine built and I'm having a couple of issues with it. Mine keeps binding when I'm trying to press the bow & when I releasing the pressure. It was binding so bad I couldn't press the bow & I had fight to get it loose enough to get the bow back out of the press. I'm guessing I'm going to need to add the collar to it. I made mine with a longer screw so I can take my bow completely down...don't know if that is part of the problem or not.
> 
> Also do I need to bend my fingers(NoLuckLarry metal fingers) in some toward the middle of the press? The bow looks stable in the fingers, but was just wondering if it was necessary and would maybe help with binding also.
> 
> 
> Kevin


Properly fit, adding the "collars" will definitely help with the binding issue.

As for the longer screw, I can't say for sure whether that would be causing any issues without seeing the press or at least some photos.

If the bow seems stable in the press and you feel comfortable with the straight fingers, you will probably be alright without the bend. Again, photos with the bow in the press could be helpful.

CaptPete, I especially like your Avatar!!!  


And thanks for all the kind remarks and responses to this thread; I appreciate it (especially all those five gold star ratings). LOL 
I'm glad the press is working out for everyone.


----------



## Jellio

I did some minor tweaking on mine last night.....heated the finger ups and bent them in just a tad more so the line up perfectly with my limbs.....other than that I added a little hockey tape to the fingers to prevent the bow from sliding down while pressing. I also add a shot of wd-40 to the collar to help it slide that makes a big difference. I also make some brackets out of aluminum and drilled two holes in each of the legs and attached the press to a 2x4 so I can bolt it to my bench when I'm using it to prevent it from moving around.


----------



## Jellio

Here's a pic of the updates I've made.

The bottom pic show what I had to do on the other end to keep it adjustable. I took a heavy piece of aluminum and bent it at 90 degree's then I measured the od of the pipe and drilled a hole just a hair bigger. This keeps the adjustablitly in it. Hope this helps some.


----------



## CaptPete

I added the collar and that took care of 99% of the binding. I think part of the issue is the longer screw I added so I could take the bow completely down. I'm still debating on bending the fingers. Like I said, the bow is stable in with the fingers straight. I was able to completely relax the bow so I could remove the limbs and that was my goal. Thank for the great Idea Race...I sent you a PM about my avatar.:wink::wink:

Kevin


Race59 said:


> Properly fit, adding the "collars" will definitely help with the binding issue.
> 
> As for the longer screw, I can't say for sure whether that would be causing any issues without seeing the press or at least some photos.
> 
> If the bow seems stable in the press and you feel comfortable with the straight fingers, you will probably be alright without the bend. Again, photos with the bow in the press could be helpful.
> 
> CaptPete, I especially like your Avatar!!!
> 
> 
> And thanks for all the kind remarks and responses to this thread; I appreciate it (especially all those five gold star ratings). LOL
> I'm glad the press is working out for everyone.


----------



## stevezt4

I need this on the front page, building one of these now


----------



## Flyin6

Presses my pre-stressed limbed PSE X Force TS like a champ!


----------



## spud69

Great design I'm currently workin on a x press post


----------



## Flyboy718

Just used my press for the first time to change my string and cables...and I can't get my bow out of the press now...it is just stuck! The screw is moving freely and actually will back all the way out its clamp but the two clamps remain stuck in the position they are in....any ideas on how to get this thing out would be appreciated ASAP and also how to keep it from happening again. I pressed the metal stack of 'leafs?' on the opposite end clamp in hopes it would release but it did not. HELP!!!


----------



## Flyboy718

Flyboy718 said:


> Just used my press for the first time to change my string and cables...and I can't get my bow out of the press now...it is just stuck! The screw is moving freely and actually will back all the way out its clamp but the two clamps remain stuck in the position they are in....any ideas on how to get this thing out would be appreciated ASAP and also how to keep it from happening again. I pressed the metal stack of 'leafs?' on the opposite end clamp in hopes it would release but it did not. HELP!!!


Update, got it out my pressing the metal 'leafs' on the opposite end and tapping on that clamp with a rubber malet and it came out. However, the other clamp with the screw in it...the screw has seperated from the clamp, so when I go to retract the clamp the screw just comes out, it will still press put I believe I am either going to have to get a new set or install the colar for it to retract correctly now. Any ideas?


----------



## CaptPete

Flyboy718 said:


> Update, got it out my pressing the metal 'leafs' on the opposite end and tapping on that clamp with a rubber malet and it came out. However, the other clamp with the screw in it...the screw has seperated from the clamp, so when I go to retract the clamp the screw just comes out, it will still press put I believe I am either going to have to get a new set or install the colar for it to retract correctly now. Any ideas?


Add the collar. I was having the same trouble...the screw end of the clamp wouldn't retract. I added a 3"-4" collar and it took care of 99% the binding. I think the rest of my binding issue(very minimal) is from changing the screw to make it longer so I could completely relax the bow and remove the limbs. Mine was binding so bad that it got to a point I coudn't screw it in or have it move back when I was relaxing it.

Kevin


----------



## ssmithntx

Great idea!


----------



## Flyboy718

CaptPete said:


> Add the collar. I was having the same trouble...the screw end of the clamp wouldn't retract. I added a 3"-4" collar and it took care of 99% the binding. I think the rest of my binding issue(very minimal) is from changing the screw to make it longer so I could completely relax the bow and remove the limbs. Mine was binding so bad that it got to a point I coudn't screw it in or have it move back when I was relaxing it.
> 
> Kevin


I will get a buddy to add the collars for me, but first it looks as though I am going to have to purchase a new pipe clamp set. On mine it produced a lot of metal shavings on that first press when trying to retract the clamp and the screw actually seperated from the clamp, it will still press the bow, but i have to use the rubber malet to help it break the bow loose each time.


----------



## Ancient Archer

So simple, so effective, creativity at its finest. Although I don't need a press to break down my bow, I have a set of these pipe clamps and may very well build one of these just because I like it.

Well done indeed!


----------



## h3lman

*Many thanks. Here's my attempt.*

I'd like to thank you for sharing your plans with us. I've made a press pretty much the same as yours. Unfortunately the head of the bolt/drive that pulls and pushes the fingers in and out broke when backing off the pressure on the bow. Cheap Chinese rubbish. Lukily I came across a very old English pipe clamp at the local metal recyclers. Uses 1.25 inch pipe though, but it does have a longer clamping range so it's stronger and better too and cost me nothing.


----------



## blackoak

To the original poster that shared his plans for this press, Thanks. I made one today in my shop. I already had everything I needed. I didn't read all 34 pages and if this question has been already asked, I'm sorry, but when pressing a Mathews bow with string suppressors on the ends. Do you need to remove them first before pressing. The two allen bolts seem to make the limbs not set in the slots level.


----------



## b0w_bender

My twist on the press using a trailer Jack sightly more expensive but gives you the full travel necessary for changing out the limbs or any other total break down necessary. It also functions as a draw board to help trouble shoot those nasty timing problems.

see:
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1321214
For full details


----------



## Omega

Bump for a great idea!


----------



## MissAlaLogBuyer

I been thinking on this and you could use the pipe clamp with the stand like the one used by the OP and mount it to the side of a workbench with some u-bolts around the pipe between the clamps (maybe 15-20 inches apart in the middle so not to hinder the length of travel) and make the fingers on a 90 (pointing up like an EZ Press) 

Anybody tried this or something like it?


----------



## Omega

MissAlaLogBuyer said:


> I been thinking on this and you could use the pipe clamp with the stand like the one used by the OP and mount it to the side of a workbench with some u-bolts around the pipe between the clamps (maybe 15-20 inches apart in the middle so not to hinder the length of travel) and make the fingers on a 90 (pointing up like an EZ Press)
> 
> Anybody tried this or something like it?


I'm considering the same thing. It could side load the clamps more than they would like, but it's certainly worth a try. My choice will probably be a T-bar clamp with 42" capacity.


----------



## Squishface

Here's mine. It's made all from stuff we already had around. The fingers are 3" steel channel. It has a base welded on it to make it stand up a little higher and to add weight so it won't tip over as easy. I put 2 clamps on one end just in case one slipped. Oh, and the padding is just one of those cut up sheets of the self-adhesive furniture slider felt pad things I had sitting around. I was going to make it out of leather but those work. The shelf is a piece of thick leather wrapped in a bicycle tire tube. I'll make the shelf more permanent or make it out of something different later on. It works just fine for now. Thanks for the good idea!


----------



## Razorbak

that looks great...wish I thought of that...broken 1 set of osage and 1 set of wenge and 3 sets of red oak fingers 2 inches thick..they all bind and split or the fingers cracked and my screw handlefinally pulled out and broke in half..now Im gonna get a new clamps from HF soon as I can and re think the wood..small pieces of steel around here are really hard to find and if I found some they are all to thin..average pice I found is 1/8" thick and thats 2" wide and if I found 1/4" thick..they are about 1" wide..very frustrating specially since I cant weld or find the steel... but I feel this is a great concept and idea...anyone has any fingers they want to sell cheap as I cant afford much anymore since I became handicappped this year


----------



## Omega

I'll be posting a few pics as soon as I'm done with my version of this. I'm going to use a T-bar clamp like this. I have an idea how to simplify the fingers, no complex (and expensive for me, was quoted $46) cutting of the slot between the fingers... Maybe I'll get all of the parts and get it together in a week or so.


----------



## bjthoele

Anyone try and press an Elite with this setup?

I had some garage time today and had all the stuff around to put something together. I was mainly just seeing what this was all about.

One thing I noticed as I put light pressure on it was that the screw was difficult to turn, it seemed to be binding up. I have seen others talk about this. 

Here are some pics of what I put together, let me know your thoughts.

http://s710.photobucket.com/albums/ww107/bjthoele/


----------



## bjthoele

I really don't intend to keep the wood on it but am not real handy with metal. I see some of you (Jellio and others) have made up some real nice fingers and a collar. Anyone interested in selling one???


----------



## nuts&bolts

bjthoele said:


> I really don't intend to keep the wood on it but am not real handy with metal. I see some of you (Jellio and others) have made up some real nice fingers and a collar. Anyone interested in selling one???


Need to put a "sleeve" around the pipe,
and then drill a hole for the "sleeve" that
is a tight fit.

Technically,
1-inch pipe "SHOULD" fit around 3/4-inch pipe.

I had to sand down the black gas pipe to bright metal
and
I had to ream out the inside of the 1-inch pipe with rasps and round files.

I used a 4-inch long 1-inch diameter pipe nipple.

Still need to grease up the pipe,
so the sleeve will slide easily.


----------



## h3lman

I've made 2 of these presses. I reckon they're a great idea seeing as how they are so portable. The first press using a cheap Chinese clamp broke the first time I tried to unwind it as the force of the bow pushing down on the bar required a lot of pressure when unwinding it. The tip of the tread that is supposed to be trapped within the clamp and freely rotate around was not strong enough to handle it. In the end I cleaned up an old english clamp that I found at the metal recyclers and that was built to last and so far has not skipped a beat.

Sometimes saving a few dollars on the chinese stuff isn't worth it. You can't beat good old english or US engineering.

Once again. Many thanks for the design.


----------



## Cheerioette

I'm impressed!


----------



## nolucklarry

Lots of people talking of binding. I used a heavy bar wax to wax the screw end so it slides easily. 

I have some more of the fingers if any one needs them to build their own press. Come cut, pipe hole in and painted and padded. $35 tyd.


----------



## nolucklarry

*Mine*

Here is how I did mine. Turned out nice. I waxed the bar at the screw end so it doesn't bind.


----------



## crkid

I would like to know how yall cut out the fingers?


----------



## tjkanavel

I made one last night. Got the clamps from Home Depot ($14.99), 6ft black pipe ($11) and red oak for the fingers ($5). After looking at some of your ideas and pics I'm going to re-do the fingers so they go down around the pipe to help with the binding. So far everything is working great though!!

I'll post some pics when I finish the new fingers.


----------



## [email protected]

Bringing this thread to the top for a friend who is interested. Great stuff!


----------



## BlacktailBryan

[email protected] said:


> Bringing this thread to the top for a friend who is interested. Great stuff!


Ya, I subscribed to this thread, Im going to build one soon.


----------



## dunk50

I just finished mine as many of you have. My luck sucks. Tried to use it on my Tomkat and the draw stop is dead in the way. yea it's easy enough to remove but a pain to make sure it goes back in the exact spot it was in. Other than that, nice!!


----------



## Sideways

Great idea and thanks to the OP for posting


----------



## BHewes

Damn I keep reading posts about DIY presses and I keep telling myself I've got to make one. Looks like with this post I will have to go ahead and build one of these for a portable press and build a differnet bench top one later.


----------



## monsterbuckrick

Great started mine today.


----------



## Don Schultz

Race59 said:


> The biggest shortcoming I see with using this pipe clamp setup is that I don't believe it has enough travel to change limbs, but that's not something one does every day anyhow.


That was my first thought. It may be that if you planned carefully and started the pressing with the screw well extended, and got just enuf compression to get the string and cables off, you MIGHT have enough travel the other way to relax the limbs. Will depend a bit on the bow being pressed.

In any case, whether it is a string changer or a fully capable press, it would be good to have along on a multiday bowhunting expedition. I'd include a couple of pieces for wood to clamp to it to keep it upright on a wobbly picnic table.


----------



## donmega

Doy you think you could press a Bear Carnage in that?


----------



## onyx48166

will this work for a Bowtech destoyer?


----------



## waschnurr

ttt to the top


----------



## dasbear

I put together one of these press's this week using some 5/4X6 epatong? Very dense and heavy I was pleased with how it worked however I decided to remove the limbs so I used a ratchet strap between the fingers and vise grip on the clamp lock rings to open the press completly to remove the bow. Not a very easy task so I came up with a idea to open and close the press with unlimited travel by using 5/8" X 48" all thread sitting in the slot of the fingers. I will try to post some pictures in the next couple days. This is a work in progress an only needed if you need to change the limbs or other work. Now if you could find 48" pieces of acme thread rod this press could really take a jump in evolution. The bow I am working on is a micro midas II 45#


----------



## SavageBows

Great idea, I'm gonna have to try that one out.


----------



## jim p

There are pictures back around page 15 of my press which I modified to take a bow completely apart. I used an irwen (sp) pipe clamp and modified the clamp by drilling out the clamp head so that it would slide down the pipe. I then took the handle off the clamp head and put a socket on the screw so that I could turn it with a ratchet wrench. Next I drilled 1/4" holes in the pipe about every 1.5". With this set up I can start relaxing the bow until I start to run out of travel. Then I place an allen wrench in a hole in the pipe to hold the clamp head. Then I can readjust the screw take the allen wrench out and repeat the process until the bow is totally relaxed. It takes maybe 5 minutes to get the bow apart using this technique.


----------



## waschnurr

ttt


----------



## JPR79

If one were to worry about the bow jumping out of it, you could always ratchet it down somehow.

This idea makes me want to throw my Bowmaster in the garbage.


----------



## bewald

how did you cut the fingers for your bow im attempting to build sp\omthing simalar but all i have is a sawzall and that isnt making very nice cuts. just woundering if you had a machine chop or fab shop cut those for you


----------



## agrims

You can use a drill and drill a hole one inch apart, and saw between the holes.


----------



## agrims

side note, got my press built, now I have to track down a few inches of 1" steel pipe. Heavy wax and some good ole dremeling will get you a desired fit, however, because there is no backing to the plate it does stick. While taking down your bow, use a hammer and lightly tap to get the bow out of the press. I fully believe that a 3 - 4" peice of 
1" steel Sched. 40 or 80, welded to the finger plate would and will resolve this! Awesome press for under $50.00! Presses my PSE X-Force and Diamond Rock 2.0 like they are nothing! I did use the Irwin clamp, they have more travel!


----------



## agrims

TTT for informational value!


----------



## bowfreak1970

Rather than holes use a split ring clamp and just use a Allen wrench to tighten it. Also the set screw idea would make it hard to adjust after a while. The pipe should be 80 schedule not 40 the walls are thicker and it will not bend as easy.


----------



## crazyhoyt

*Blacked out Hoyt Katera. Carter realease, easton fmjs*

I have a older apple archery press im looking to put press fingers on it. Does anyone know or have they tried this before and if so does it work on the old style presses.


----------



## GTOJake

gbear said:


> :mg: what about the cranking force or ease of cranking? Is that good enough quality that the screw doesnt' bind cranking on a 60#er?



we use these same clamps to hold 6 and 8 ton Bard units, A/C and Heat Wall hangers for schools and buildings , they stand like 8 ft tall and they hold those units with ease.


----------



## Z-Rider

One word: BRILLIANT!


----------



## drtnshtr

I just read every single post on this thread. Amazing job folks and thanks Race for bringing this to our attention. I bought a clamp and 48 inch rod tonight and hope to have fingers built this weekend if I can find someone that works with steel.


----------



## b0w_bender

Guys still a lot of discussion on whether it will have enough travel to take a bow completely apart. (it doesn't) Spend 10 more dollars for the Harbor freight square trailer jack and mount the fingers to that. It gives you a ton of adjust ability and a lot more travel. All that for less than the cost of a movie. This is my favorite thread ever but with a simple couple of tweaks you can have a full featured press.


----------



## slickwillie

Awesome idea!! I have pipe clamps in my shed that I very rarely use. This will put them to good use. Gotta build this thing soon!!


----------



## WisDeerHunter

Just ordered this clamping system from Rockler. The 48" is on sale right now for $25 with free shipping! 

Thinking I may make the fingers out of heavy weight aluminum. I do a lot of work with aluminum and the TIG welder. 

Thanks Race for the awesome idea. This thread has been going for a long time and it still is a sweet idea and relatively easy to build. I didn't read through all 20+ pages of posts so if this clamp was listed before, I am sorry...but it is on sale right now, won't rotate and have the lock notches to keep the non-crank side from moving. Looks well built as well. Will try to post pictures when I get it done.


----------



## Terry A

Some nice inexpensive press ideas here.


----------



## goathollow

b0w_bender said:


> Guys still a lot of discussion on whether it will have enough travel to take a bow completely apart. (it doesn't) Spend 10 more dollars for the Harbor freight square trailer jack and mount the fingers to that. It gives you a ton of adjust ability and a lot more travel. All that for less than the cost of a movie. This is my favorite thread ever but with a simple couple of tweaks you can have a full featured press.


I am not sure how you would mount the fingers to that jack...if I am looking that correct item online at Haborfreight.com


----------



## WisDeerHunter

goathollow said:


> I am not sure how you would mount the fingers to that jack...if I am looking that correct item online at Haborfreight.com


See his version of the press here: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1321214


----------



## drtnshtr

I put mine together this week and my father in law cut out some fingers for me that are 3/4 inch Lexan. These work perfect!


----------



## jarrodj04

bumping this to the top tired of searching for it


----------



## Dean S

Here is my solution to the binding with wood. It could be prettier but it works great.
View attachment 1144104
View attachment 1144106


----------



## lijewsk5

If anyones sells steel fingers for this type of press please shoot me a PM with a price! Thanks


----------



## Fletcher #1

lijewsk5 said:


> If anyones sells steel fingers for this type of press please shoot me a PM with a price! Thanks


Ditto


----------



## goathollow

I finally finished my pipe clamp press last evening. I made several times to make the fingers out of laminated oak but I can't seem to cut straight lines with a jig saw. So, just about when I was about to just give up, I mentioned the project to my nephew who is a tool maker. He looked at the pictures and said.."I can make those easy on the CNC machine at work". I told him to give it a go not expecting to get back fingers machined from a solid billet of T6-6061 aluminum!! The fingers are 1/2 thick and he assures me they can handle any bow made so I am trusting his judgement.

The only thing left to do is to clean away the black gunk on the pipe so it will slide a bit better.

View attachment 1146856
View attachment 1146857


----------



## link06

goathollow said:


> I finally finished my pipe clamp press last evening. I made several times to make the fingers out of laminated oak but I can't seem to cut straight lines with a jig saw. So, just about when I was about to just give up, I mentioned the project to my nephew who is a tool maker. He looked at the pictures and said.."I can make those easy on the CNC machine at work". I told him to give it a go not expecting to get back fingers machined from a solid billet of T6-6061 aluminum!! The fingers are 1/2 thick and he assures me they can handle any bow made so I am trusting his judgement.
> 
> The only thing left to do is to clean away the black gunk on the pipe so it will slide a bit better.
> 
> View attachment 1146856
> View attachment 1146857


Sweet! Your nephew should start selling those fingers, they look awesome!


----------



## goathollow

link06 said:


> Sweet! Your nephew should start selling those fingers, they look awesome!


I've mentioned that to him but while I think his employer encourages "government" jobs as way to keep the job interesting and develop creativity, he stops at allowing employees to build things that they sell. I've told him that the company should start a sideline business of making and selling "pipe clamp bow press kits".


----------



## kerrye

I picked up the pipe clamp set at HF today and paid a guy I know $25 to cut out the fingers from ¼" x 2" steel and weld on the 2" tube. I drilled, tapped and assembled the press this evening. All that's left to do is pick up a piece of ¾" x 54" pipe and some heater hose and it's done. (should have done this last week instead of paying $25 to have a string and cable put on.)ukey:


----------



## kerrye

Picked up the pipe and heater hose today. Put it together this evening and it works great. Put a peep in an old bow I wanted to shoot and the press did just what it's supposed to do.:thumbs_up


----------



## lijewsk5

Finished my press today. Havent had a chance to use it yet, but should work great


----------



## mfh432

Tagging for later.


----------



## jersey hunter

Ttt


----------



## deerfrenzy

Very nice I'm telling my buddies about this and I'm going to build on myself so nice to have on a hunt 
Ttt


----------



## glissnote

Really like your press. Already ordered the clamp. Thanks for link. Obviously you are quite a craftsman. Not knowing how to weld, or otherwise work with steel, what would you charge to make me up the "fingers" for each end of the clamp?
Thanks.


----------



## 1955

glissnote said:


> Really like your press. Already ordered the clamp. Thanks for link. Obviously you are quite a craftsman. Not knowing how to weld, or otherwise work with steel, what would you charge to make me up the "fingers" for each end of the clamp?
> Thanks.


Just make them out of wood (hardwood, not plywood).

I haven't seen this thread in a LONG time...glad to see that it's still going strong!


----------



## laobuck

God bless ya for posting this.You guys just save me boo koo money ! :wink:


----------



## TailChaser

Just built mine. And man am I glad. I've pressed this destroyer 40 times this weekend trying to get things right (now thinking it's spine probs).

Works good. I just picked up a 1x4 redwood, 4' long, and double it up. Openings are only 3/4" wide for the destroyer. 

1 1/4" hole in the wood for the pipe. Dont' get it perfectly tight on the bottom during setup, but you don't want it too far from the pipe either because as it bends back it needs to contact there. 

I just put regular sticky felt on the fingers and it hasn't left a single mark. Mine is very "crude", I couldn't care less what it looks like.

I think I spend like $40. $8 clamp, $10 wood, $10 pipe, $5 on a 1 1/4" spade bit, $3 hardware, plus tax, 1 hr working on it. It paid off for that in the first 5 use compared to a dang bowmaster press.

Mine doesn't bind at all, just as easy to let out as it is to press it. I did put grease on the screw though, very liberally, big difference.


----------



## jersey hunter

Ttt


----------



## EASTON94

Wow this is pretty sweet, may have to try it for $25 thats hard to beat! '94


----------



## mhill

Race59 said:


> Yes, they're cast iron parts. Drilling and tapping cast iron is pretty easy. The hard part is lining up all the damn holes!!!


Should make these and sell them on here, see how many people will order them. make them for 20 sell them for 60 or 70 depending on the shipping costs. great job :thumbs_up


----------



## pacis custodis

I am glad I finally started reading more on here again! I am finding all kinds of great stuff! Perfect for everyone that does not want to drop some larger bills.


----------



## brd556

Well, after reading this thread for a while, I decided to build one of these. Mine works
great, as I am sure they all do. For my fingers I used 1-1/4" thick aluminum. Then
I "blind" drilled and tapped them to the clamp faces from the back side of the clamps.
I then "dipped" them with a couple coats of tool grip liquid rubber. This is for extra 
grip and also for the protection of the bow finish.

To add a little more stability, I tapped, threaded and bolted 6" wide tube metal stands
under each end of the press.


----------



## jersey hunter

looks sweet....


----------



## Diamond_Victory

Dean S said:


> Here is my solution to the binding with wood. It could be prettier but it works great.
> View attachment 1144104
> View attachment 1144106



Now this is thinking, might have to put one these together


----------



## walterD

This is the best idea I have seen for a bow press. I just ordered the 3/4 inch pipe clamp from Harbor Frieght online for $9.99 and $5.99 shipping. Since I can't weld or cut steel I am thinking of making the fingers out of plywood pieces that cover the clamp faces as well as the pipe where I will drill a 3/4 inch hole. The predrilled holes in the clamps will then be enough to secure the plwood plate. If it works out well I will take pics and post.


----------



## Diamond_Victory

walterD said:


> This is the best idea I have seen for a bow press. I just ordered the 3/4 inch pipe clamp from Harbor Frieght online for $9.99 and $5.99 shipping. Since I can't weld or cut steel I am thinking of making the fingers out of plywood pieces that cover the clamp faces as well as the pipe where I will drill a 3/4 inch hole. The predrilled holes in the clamps will then be enough to secure the plwood plate. If it works out well I will take pics a playersnd post.


Be careful with plywood, it's not a strong a the hardwoods others are using like oak and such


----------



## brd556

Got a request for the measurements on my aluminum blocks......here they are.

Blocks are 3" wide by 6" high and 1-1/4" thick. Grooves are 7/8" wide and 3" deep.
Holes for the pipe are 1-1/8". Limb shelves are about 1-1/2" down from the top and
about 1/4" in depth.


----------



## matlocc

How could this be adapted for beyond parallel like an invasion?


----------



## goathollow

walterD said:


> This is the best idea I have seen for a bow press. I just ordered the 3/4 inch pipe clamp from Harbor Frieght online for $9.99 and $5.99 shipping. Since I can't weld or cut steel I am thinking of making the fingers out of plywood pieces that cover the clamp faces as well as the pipe where I will drill a 3/4 inch hole. The predrilled holes in the clamps will then be enough to secure the plwood plate. If it works out well I will take pics and post.



If you use plywood I would recommend laminating two or three layers with each layer's grain running a different direction.


----------



## bigcountry25

I got mine finished today and it works great!!!!

Thanks to orginal post member!!!!

My bow press cost me $22.00


----------



## F.C.Hunter

I went to lowes and bout a piece of red oak 1"x4" cut 4 7" pieces and glued em together. Two pieces made up one set of fingers an the other the other set. Works fairly well now I wont have to wait 6months for someone to change my strings an cables.


----------



## matlocc

I was wondering if there would be an advantage of using some block magnets as the supports that hold up the bow. I think they could then be adjusted for different cam sizes. what do you think?


----------



## Turkey010

Would it be a good idea to have a support come up from the middle to balance the bow prior to tightening.
Something that would grasp the handle of the bow lightly?

Must say though these are the best DIY presses I have seen
Great job I see a patent and a business in there somewhere


----------



## jb-hunter

Would like input from anyone who has built this and pressed a z7 extreme.... thanks.


----------



## brd556

jb-hunter said:


> Would like input from anyone who has built this and pressed a z7 extreme.... thanks.


I will be attempting to press my brothers Z7 Xtreme on Friday. I will post pics with how it turns out.


----------



## brd556

jb-hunter said:


> Would like input from anyone who has built this and pressed a z7 extreme.... thanks.


My dad and brother came down for the weekend and both of them brought their Z7 Extremes'. They fit in the
press I made with now problem. You need to be aware that Z7 Extreme has some "funky" stuff out on the limbs
so you need to be careful and place it exactly centered before you press it. Here is a pic of one pressed enough
to do a string change.....


----------



## Greenbow71

I'm new here, but have considered some ideas for a cheap homemade press. This is fantastic! One thing concerns me though. Have you considered adding an extended arm with a piece to wrap around the limb should the bow being pressed pops up while being pressed?


----------



## Ultra Limited

brd556 said:


> My dad and brother came down for the weekend and both of them brought their Z7 Extremes'. They fit in the
> press I made with now problem. You need to be aware that Z7 Extreme has some "funky" stuff out on the limbs
> so you need to be careful and place it exactly centered before you press it. Here is a pic of one pressed enough
> to do a string change.....


If you made another what would you sell it for??


----------



## ZenBubba

Greenbow71 said:


> I'm new here, but have considered some ideas for a cheap homemade press. This is fantastic! One thing concerns me though. Have you considered adding an extended arm with a piece to wrap around the limb should the bow being pressed pops up while being pressed?


I was wondering the same thing. I'm building one as soon as the aluminum gets here. I'm thinking it probably has sufficient holding power since no one has said otherwise but I'm going to test it with something other than a bow to see what it can hold before letting go.

I'll probably end up with $200 in materials and $8000 in my time but it will keep me out of trouble.


----------



## CarlV

madarchery said:


> Searching.
> 
> JORGENSEN Aluminum Bar Clamps
> Stock # Part # Description Price Quantity Buy
> 3524 3524 24 Inch Aluminum Bar Clamp $38.52
> 3536 3636 36 Inch Aluminum Bar Clamp $42.87
> 3548 3548 48 Inch Aluminum Bar Clamp $49.26
> 3560 3560 60 Inch Aluminum Bar Clamp $56.99
> 3572 3572 72 Inch Aluminum Bar Clamp $62.76
> 
> 1600# work limit. Rail is notched on 1" centers. Darn near perfect for $50
> 
> Thought this might me the cats meow for those interested.


WHere is this from?


----------



## stutheweak

Don't have the tools to mill aluminum. Think a block of wood on either end would be more attainable for us apartment dwellers.


----------



## stutheweak

I'd like to build this...all in one draw board and press. This way you draw it...check alignment with levels. Then press the bow enough to twist or untwist the strings. Then unpress and checks alignments again. Repeat till perfect. Think this would speed things up. Not have to pull the bow off the draw board and into a separate press then BACK into the draw board...again, again, again...


----------



## nuts&bolts

stutheweak said:


> I'd like to build this...all in one draw board and press.
> 
> View attachment 1214335


This has a LOT of potential.

Use the hand crank winch to get the bow partially drawn...say each limb tip moves 1/2-inch.

Build wooden pivoting blocks to hold the limb tips. The hardwood wooden base would slide on the 3/4-inch pipe.

Take the tail-stock (part that does not have a crank) and drill out the end, so you can slide onto the 3/4-inch pipe.
Use two tail stocks (parts from 2 sets of pipe clamps).

You can use the tail stocks to lock down the wooden bases,
and lock down the limb tip position (partially drawn).

Relax the winch,
and then you have the bowstring and cables loose.

The two sets of tail stocks are locking down the current limb tip position.

Do what you need to do with the bowstring and/or cables.

Reinstall the bowstring and/or cables.

Hook up the winch again to the bowstring.

Release the tail stocks and slide the blocks back to the outboard positions.

Relax the bow using the hand crank winch on the draw board.


----------



## ohiorobp

Alright, so I didnt read all the post in this thread being that its 26 pages but whom is making these and selling them now....LOL?


----------



## RichJ

Has anyone changed any crossbow string and cables with this press yet? I normally use a Nitehawk press for the side business I have been doing this year. After busting my knucles twice from the Nitehawk press slipping on a Tenpoint Crossbow, I'm planning on building one once I get with a friend who works in a machine shop to make me the fingers....


----------



## RichJ

Anyone? With 26 pages of posts someone must of tried it.


----------



## c.sitas

I made this same press about a year ago. I used the 3/8" for the fingers. I really think it's way over kill. The worry of the clamp slipping is do to the choice of pipe. The clamps can be purchased at any Lowes, Home Depot , Menards, Harbor Freight.This clamp has the power to crush any bow, I don't care who makes it.A little file work fixes the sticking, kust search out why it's sticking before you file . A great press.


----------



## OzArcher1

This thread needs to be kept near the rop too.:thumbs_up:wink:


----------



## TxSportsman

Going to try it this week!


----------



## Alaska at heart

I copied and pasted this thread and sent it to a hunting buddy who is a machine shop guru. He went to the local Harbor Freight this past weekend and picked up a pipe clamp unit....... hoping he is engaging the finger process this week. I am going down to hunt with him this weekend and would love to bring a version of this home ASAP. Thanks everyone for sharing.....:thumbs_up


----------



## sfroach

Has anyone used this type of design for a beyond parallel compound bow?
I have a Bowtech Invasion CPX with 'pillow blocks' near the limb tips. These 'pillow blocks' contain the cam axle. I'm concerned the bow might pop out of the press.
Thanks, Steve


----------



## Meat

I know this is probably going to sound like a really stupid question, but how long does the pipe need to be? I am assuming at least 36" since both the bows I plan to use it on are 31" and 32" ATA. 

Meat


----------



## soless

Meat said:


> I know this is probably going to sound like a really stupid question, but how long does the pipe need to be? I am assuming at least 36" since both the bows I plan to use it on are 31" and 32" ATA.
> 
> Meat



You'll have to account for the length of pipe that fits in the actual clamps I bought a pre cut length of pipe that was 48" I think I have about 10" extra to spare but I plan on buying a 34" ata bow and I'll keep the pipe full lentgh until then..


----------



## Meat

Thanks. Looks like the only thing I can get locally is 48" or 24", so I will go with the 4 footer. 

Meat


----------



## coxmb

Has anyone tried this press on beyond parallel limb bows?


----------



## 70oldsracer

I made a set of fingers, that doesn't work as good as would like on my Mathews bows. I copied the drawing from this post, but the u shaped openings (to clear the cams) that calls for 1", just seems too wide for my limbs. I would sell these to someone who could use them for their bow. They are 1/4" thick and one finger has a two inch piece of one inch pipe welded to it. I already drilled them for the Pony pipe clamps, but the holes from the fingers can easily be transfered to the pipe clamps with transfer punches. I milled the back of one of the fingers a little too much, but I assure you it will not effect the function. If anyone is interested, just make me an offer. I'm not looking to get rich here, just looking to help someone out, while making a few bucks. Here are a few pics.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/685/dsc02752j.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/802/dsc02754d.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/204/dsc02755q.jpg/


----------



## 70oldsracer

Here are a few more pics. The first one is of the back of the finger where I milled it.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/42/dsc02756h.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/846/dsc02751t.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/403/dsc02749c.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/513/dsc02747lx.jpg/

Thanks,

Frank


----------



## 70oldsracer

My offer for selling the fingers is being withdrawn. I will just use them for another bow. Sorry for any inconvenience this may have caused.


----------



## JMedlin0511

I am looking at building one of these or buying one off of someone that wants to build me one....i have a pse revenge x-force limbs...if somebody could help me out with building me one or even some fingers for one that woudl be great...i have never really messed with tuning a bow and dont have a shop close to me that knows what there doing when it comes to tuning a bow...any help would be great...


----------



## LvToHunt

I'm curious if this design will work on Bowtech Invasion or Insanity? Otherwise this idea is so simple. I love it.


----------



## gcampbell

Nice work!!!


----------



## JMedlin0511

anybody make me some figures..i have everything else...need some fingures that would work with xforce bow...


----------



## LvToHunt

LvToHunt said:


> I'm curious if this design will work on Bowtech Invasion or Insanity? Otherwise this idea is so simple. I love it.


Anybody?


----------



## me.hunter

Here is what I made from this thread. Saved me hundreds of dollars for a press I might use 10 times a year. Made of 5/4 clear red oak and one inch heavy duty pipe clamps. Great for strings and cable work and adding a peep or peep adjustment. Mel


----------



## soless

LvToHunt said:


> Anybody?


No. It won't work for past parralel limbs.


----------



## infest

If someone is selling these shoot me a pm.


----------



## 167_12PT

infest said:


> If someone is selling these shoot me a pm.


Please send me a PM also. Or if someone will make the fingers??


----------



## tonnanitro

I built one of these presses last year and it works great for changing strings and tuning. What it lacks is travel for swapping limbs. I bought a 5/8 acme threaded rod to put in the press but it seems that the threads on the pony clamp are not acme thread. Any body have any idea what thread it uses or know of a different clamp that uses acme rod?


----------



## V-TRAIN

nice


----------



## Big Ragu

well done sir I just hate working on an upside down bow...lol


----------



## Don Schultz

Hey me.hunter really nicely done, adding a wider leg base and fingers in one piece. Doing it in wood should also inspire those reading this who fear cutting steel. For all, here is the current (as of today) link to the Harbor Freight clamp with feet built in.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-pipe-clamp-with-base-94053.html


----------



## Don Schultz

tonnanitro said:


> ...What it lacks is travel for swapping limbs. .... Any body have any idea what thread it uses or know of a different clamp that uses acme rod?


Haven't done it but the fix may be to buy a 2nd clamp. Drill out the 2nd clamp so it can slide on the pipe. This can be done by hand with an appropriate hole saw. Use both threaded parts on the bow press with the existing stop behind the one that slides to hold it in place. Advance one thread all the way, put the 2nd thread about 1/2 way. Mount the bow, compress to remove string and cables, then back both threads out to decompress the limbs. And pray I'm right, that there is enough travel!!! :wink:


----------



## nationalguard88

Why won't it work on past parallel limbs? Seems like this design would would work for past parallel limbs if the cut outs in the blocks of wood were shaped to accomodate the limbs. Shaping the cut out similar to the shape of the ez press style fingers, just upside down in the case of the pipe clamp press. You could use liquid plastic on the shelves, where the limbs would rest, to avoid slippage. Not trying to argue with you, but in theory it seems like it would work?


soless said:


> No. It won't work for past parralel limbs.


----------



## 70oldsracer

infest said:


> If someone is selling these shoot me a pm.


I saw you posted this and thought you were in need of fingers. Sorry.


----------



## dmr400

I at least skimmed the entire thread and didn't see this, but has anyone used/have thoughts on using this press on bows with metal attachments for the axles on the ends of the limbs? I just bought a Diamond Outlaw that is set up this way. It seems to me they wouldn't be a problem, as they are designed to take the weight from the draw, but thought I would ask.

It seems to me a different shaped notch or finger could be used to avoid putting pressure on the metal, but does anyone think it should even be worried about, or just press using the end of the limb like all the others?


----------



## reesetee1

Flippin' Sweet!!


----------



## nationalguard88

Has anyone else tried this or something similar on the pipe clamp press with any success on past parallels?/


nationalguard88 said:


> Why won't it work on past parallel limbs? Seems like this design would would work for past parallel limbs if the cut outs in the blocks of wood were shaped to accomodate the limbs. Shaping the cut out similar to the shape of the ez press style fingers, just upside down in the case of the pipe clamp press. You could use liquid plastic on the shelves, where the limbs would rest, to avoid slippage. Not trying to argue with you, but in theory it seems like it would work?


----------



## ldwyt

hey 70, do you have fingers for sale ? just checkin to see whats out there before I try making some.


----------



## slowen

Way cool! Now send me one so i can "test" it for you!


----------



## JMedlin0511

nationalguard88 said:


> Has anyone else tried this or something similar on the pipe clamp press with any success on past parallels?/


YES...it will work with past parrellel limbs just go back to post #99 and look....


----------



## 70oldsracer

ldwyt said:


> hey 70, do you have fingers for sale ? just checkin to see whats out there before I try making some.


PM sent.


----------



## nationalguard88

Yes I saw that awhile ago, but there's no shelf under the limb tips for support to stop slippage. Also seems to be pressing on the limbs not the tips. I spoke with him about it sometime ago, and he said recomended the nite hawk portable press. I had a different approach to building the fingers for beyond parallels and was origonally asking if anyone had tried it. Like in post 792.


JMedlin0511 said:


> YES...it will work with past parrellel limbs just go back to post #99 and look....


----------



## ironworker172

What a great tool! I built one with the steel fingers out of 5/16 steel but simply drilled out 17/64 inch holes and mounted with 1 x 1/4 stainless bolts rather than taping for threads, much faster and easier imo. I also tried without the 3 inch over pipe and it didn't work near as well, so I added it and runs very smooth now.

Big shout out to Race59 for the great idea!


----------



## iowaelkbum

I have an idea for a "safety". A locking collar from a weight lifting bar. You know from the old style cement weights.


----------



## jerzy-joe

Awesome


----------



## c.sitas

Hello race59; I made this press and I love it. I don't use any of the extra holes, not needed. I shoot Hoyt , Martin and Jennings . All press easily with no effort. Thanks , now I'll have 300 to stick into something else.


----------



## skeet16

Any new improvements to this unit?


----------



## robertyateman

Done very well, and more importantly, cheap !


----------



## Macstrange

This is simply brilliant. I've got a couple pipe clamps in the back yard. Now I know what i'm going to do with one!!!


----------



## blackberg

this is great,
I experienced an issue with my bow fisher today, and have to remove to string, 
was going to take to the shop, but decided for a cheaper option incase it happens again

thanks all!

-bb


----------



## CHG

I realize that this is an old thread, but hopefully, I'll get a response to my question. I'm about to build this press, my question is with my Hoyt Contender w/ xt3000limbs will I have to back off the limb bolts or can I leave the set to max weight. The biggest pain that I have in tuning the bow, ie, making all of the necessary adjustments, is always turning the bolts in and out after each adjustment.


----------



## StoneyN

CHG said:


> I realize that this is an old thread, but hopefully, I'll get a response to my question. I'm about to build this press, my question is with my Hoyt Contender w/ xt3000limbs will I have to back off the limb bolts or can I leave the set to max weight. The biggest pain that I have in tuning the bow, ie, making all of the necessary adjustments, is always turning the bolts in and out after each adjustment.



A press is a press is a press.....I don't know about Hoyt, but if you have to back it down to press it, then you would do the same with this one! I built one that I no longer use, PM me if you are interested.

Stoney


----------



## leon j chartier

That is such a great idea! I'm going to make one this would be perfect for me to tie in peeps and change strings.


----------



## Mr. Man

Ttt


----------



## robinlocksley

subscribing!!!!!


----------



## madarcher75

That is a freakin' awesome press idea...perfect for what I need, but how could I make some fingers to work with a Destroyer 350


----------



## snopro176

^ I should have pics in a few hours of my invasion in the press...time to call it a night though. I CANT THANK YOU ENOUGH FOR THIS THREAD!


----------



## AK&HIboy

Once I find some were to buy fingers I'm going to make one of these,simple,cheap and effective!


----------



## Griz34

I finally built mine a couple of months ago. I used oak for the fingers, as I don't have a welder. It works better than I thought it would. I've pressed an old Browning Trophy Maker, 2005 PSE Primos STL, Hoyt Ruckus, and 2010 Elite Z 28 which is considered past parallel. This press has saved me a ton of time and money doing my own tuning and tinkering. Thanks so much for the great idea.


----------



## poacherhater

Nice idea i really like how simple it is


----------



## Hydro_Commando

I might just be lazy for not reading every single post on this thread, but where can you get these "fingers' at? Harbor Freight? Lowes? i read several of the posts but didnt see anywjere if it said where these could be picked up at. Thanks


----------



## matlocc

Made one of these up last year. Tried using it on my Insanity. I have the fingers like the post above. As I was removing a cable the finger bent and the bow came popping out out. pretty scary. Is there any way to make sure the fingers don't straighten back out?


----------



## SeeMont

Fingers straighten out? As in bending? I have made these with 3/16" and 1/4" steel and it won't bend. I have built them with 3/4" oak with no problem. If the length of the fingers is increased I would use thicker material or reinforce it.


----------



## matlocc

yes the fingers went from the 7 or 10 degree bend to past straight the other way. I have 1/4 inch steel. I am trying to figure a way to reinforce or somehow harden them when they are bent back to the 7-10 degree angle. Any ideas?


----------



## jawmarq

once bent it will be weaker than original. welding a piece of flat stock perp to the back would be the only way i could think of reinforcing it.


----------



## scott*devin

sweet idea i got a saw from harbor freight and made arrow saw really cheap also


----------



## Rabbit

*48" HD I-Bar Clamp*








Has anyone tried using an I-Bar clamp to make this press? Seems like it would address some of the slipping concerns and be much stronger. $82.00

I-Bar Clamp, Heavy Duty, Opening 48 In., Throat Depth 1 13/16 In., Load Capacity 6000 Lb., Spindle Dia. 5/8 In., Max. Jaw Opening 48 In., Clamp Face 1 7/8 x 1 13/16 In., Bar Thickness 5/32 In., Bar Width 1 1/2 In., Bar Material Steel, Handle Material Steel w/Wood Crank, Bar Size 7/16 x 1 1/2 x 5/32 In., Clamping Surface D 1 13/16 In., Clamping Surface W 1 7/8 In., For hard everyday production work, Includes Compressed Metal Pawl, Rapid Acting Powerful Clamp, No-slip Notches


----------



## patdaily

I just finished mine this weekend. I have about $40 in it for just the clamps, pipe, 3/8x2" steel and rubber tubing. 
If I had it to do over again I would just go the hardwood route for the fingers. 
It is amazing how easily this presses my bowtech. 
Thanks for the write up I am still ahead of the game not having to spend the money on gas to watch someone that may or may not actually know how to work on my bow and then charge me $35!
I just used it to swap cables/string and sync my cams. 
Good job.


----------



## jp9mm

Doesn't seem like this design would be able to fix a string that has popped off a cam... or am i missing something ?


----------



## gbear

I think you are missing something or I'm not understanding your problem. Have you used a bowpress before?


----------



## jp9mm

gbear said:


> I think you are missing something or I'm not understanding your problem. Have you used a bowpress before?


The bow string is off the cam and wrapped around outside of the limb, since these fingers compress at the very end of the limb they are in the way of putting the string back on the cam. 
Does that make sense ?
Nevermind.. 
I guess i would have to take the string off completely


----------



## nuts&bolts

jp9mm said:


> The bow string is off the cam and wrapped around outside of the limb, since these fingers compress at the very end of the limb they are in the way of putting the string back on the cam.
> Does that make sense ?
> Nevermind..
> I guess i would have to take the string off completely


Yes.

You would use the Pipe Clamp press to squeeze the limbs together
and completely relax the string that fell off the cam and the cables.

Then,
you UNHOOK the bowstring end loop
and completely take off the bowstring (unwrap around the cam)
and...

check the bowstring for damage.

If the bowstring is undamaged...
then,
you take the end loop
and feed around the outside of the cam,
and go THROUGH the limb fork
and go through the buss cable legs
and come UP through the buss cable legs
and then continue to go around the top cam,
and
then,
reinstall the bowstring end loop.


Same applies for the bottom cam.


----------



## imsowright

Very nice. I like it.


----------



## Neuralgia

ttt


----------



## 8point166

ttt


----------



## MOhunter08

I'm having trouble finding hardwood that's at least 2" thick. Any suggestions?


----------



## beaverman

Why does it have to be 2" thick? I have one of these clamp presses I built a couple years ago with 1" oak fingers. I've used it quite a bit to press 70# bows with no problem.


----------



## beaverman

I guess you could glue a couple one inch pieces back to back to get the 2" thickness you are looking for.


----------



## fishdoc

How simple.

You could put a spigot / joiner down the middle and the whole thing would then go into a backpac.

A bar in the middle to stop any chance of itjumping up on you would make it idiotproof.

Good Job.


----------



## glsexton

Many thanks to Race59. This is a great idea and I used it with a couple of modifications. I didn't read this whole thread so some one may have already done this and excuse my photography untalent. 

I turned mine over and mounted it to a board. Works great.


----------



## jp9mm

Finally got around to making mine, spent about $30 at home depot on the pipe & clamps. 
I have a bunch of 1/4" plate so i cut these up with my plasma and drilled a few holes + some grinding to open up the 1"hole to accept the pipe. 
3 hours later and some old garden + auto hoses. Here is the finished product


----------



## ClintR

I think I am going to give this a try. I have no means for welding or cutting a piece of steel so I would have to do the wood options. Are those that have used the wood option having good luck with it? I'm worried about it holding up.

Or do you all think I should try to find someone to build the fingers for me? Your thoughts?


----------



## HawgEnvy

ClintRhodes said:


> I think I am going to give this a try. I have no means for welding or cutting a piece of steel so I would have to do the wood options. Are those that have used the wood option having good luck with it? I'm worried about it holding up.
> 
> Or do you all think I should try to find someone to build the fingers for me? Your thoughts?


Menard's has a 4" angle grinder for less than $25. Pick up some cut-off wheels and cut metal til your heart's content.


----------



## ClintR

HawgEnvy said:


> Menard's has a 4" angle grinder for less than $25. Pick up some cut-off wheels and cut metal til your heart's content.


Thanks for the tip. Please forgive my ignorance but what are "cut-off wheels"? Thx


----------



## joe171

Very nicely done Race


----------



## nuts&bolts

ClintRhodes said:


> Thanks for the tip. Please forgive my ignorance but what are "cut-off wheels"? Thx


An angle grinder is a hand held tool
where the cutting wheel is at 90 degrees to the handle/grip.

The "cut off wheel" is a disc, of solid abrasive material.
So, you purchase a cut-off wheel to match the capacity of your angle grinder.
9-inch angle grinder uses 9-inch diameter cutoff wheels.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=chop+saw

Chop saws also use a cut-off wheel.

These abrasive cut-off wheels are used to cut metal tubing or metal channel or metal angle iron.


----------



## nuts&bolts

ClintRhodes said:


> I think I am going to give this a try. I have no means for welding or cutting a piece of steel so I would have to do the wood options. Are those that have used the wood option having good luck with it? I'm worried about it holding up.
> 
> Or do you all think I should try to find someone to build the fingers for me? Your thoughts?


1/2-inch thick oak.
Glue up two thicknesses so you get 1-inch thick oak.
Red oak works just fine.

Hole saw
and a cross cut hand saw to create your channel.

Not going to bust 1-inch of red oak.

3/4-inch pipe has an outside diameter of just over 1-inch.

So,
when you drill the pass through hole for the metal pipe,
use a hole saw at least 1-1/8th inch diameter or even sligthly larger
so you have daylight around the entire metal pipe.


----------



## ClintR

nuts&bolts said:


> 1/2-inch thick oak.
> Glue up two thicknesses so you get 1-inch thick oak.
> Red oak works just fine.
> 
> Hole saw
> and a cross cut hand saw to create your channel.
> 
> Not going to bust 1-inch of red oak.
> 
> 3/4-inch pipe has an outside diameter of just over 1-inch.
> 
> So,
> when you drill the pass through hole for the metal pipe,
> use a hole saw at least 1-1/8th inch diameter or even sligthly larger
> so you have daylight around the entire metal pipe.


Are you sure 1 inch total is enough? Or do you mean glue 2 one inch pieces together?


----------



## nuts&bolts

ClintRhodes said:


> Are you sure 1 inch total is enough? Or do you mean glue 2 one inch pieces together?


You can use 3/4-inch thick hardwood stock
and glue two pieces together,
for a total of 1.5-inches.

Red oak or hard maple would be excellent choices.

Typical 60 lb bow,
results in roughly 180 lbs of pressure/tension in the cable...

presumes a 3:1 pulley ratio for the cam design,
which is pretty close for most cams. I believe Mathews has patented the 3:1 ratio..

so, other manufacturers have to use a slightly less or slightly more pulley ratio for cam system.

So,
if cables are holding about 180 lbs of tension,
then,
EACH set of fingers only has to resist 90 lbs of force.

So,
70 lb bow,
would have about 210 lbs of tension in the buss cable,
so,
EACH set of red oak fingers would have to resist 105 lbs of force.

Figure a 50% safety factor,
then,
you want your wooden (HARDWOOD) fingers to resist say 150 lbs of force.

1.5-inch thickness of hardwood...no problem.


----------



## ClintR

Thanks for the great info Lug Nut!


----------



## rsully661

If I had #80 limbs would this system still be strong enough or would I need to beef up the limb adapters


----------



## sublettejr

awesome


----------



## JUSS HUNT

great idea/ thinking outside he box ah'


----------



## tatkins85

I read almost ever post and am still confused on 2 things. Can I or can't I use a 2x4 of red wood from homedepot for the fingers? And is there any special modifications I need to make for it to press my 2012 z7 mag? I also plan on pressing a quest, 2012 pse stinger 3G, Mathews jewel, diamond razor. Any problems with those bows?


----------



## nuts&bolts

tatkins85 said:


> I read almost ever post and am still confused on 2 things. Can I or can't I use a 2x4 of red wood from homedepot for the fingers? And is there any special modifications I need to make for it to press my 2012 z7 mag? I also plan on pressing a quest, 2012 pse stinger 3G, Mathews jewel, diamond razor. Any problems with those bows?


redwood...NO. Too soft.

RED OAK, yes.

Any hardwood will do fine.

Take a 3/4 thick piece of RED OAK,
and then glue to another piece of 3/4-inch thick RED OAK..

and this makes a 1.5-inch thick length of RED OAK,
and this is MORE than strong enough for any bow.


----------



## nuts&bolts

rsully661 said:


> If I had #80 limbs would this system still be strong enough or would I need to beef up the limb adapters


1.5-inch thickness of RED OAK will be just fine for 80# limbs.


----------



## T0N9

LvToHunt said:


> I'm curious if this design will work on Bowtech Invasion or Insanity? Otherwise this idea is so simple. I love it.





soless said:


> No. It won't work for past parralel limbs.


It really depends on how you design your fingers.. My fingers mimic those that you will find on an higher-end machine.


----------



## westdraw

How does this work with draw stops such as on elites?? Take them off?


----------



## pwahuntn

I would not mind trying it where do you get those fingers


----------



## SinatraV

Just bought this clamp...








http://www.toolbarn.com/jorgensen-3536dr.html

It has "Deep Reach" faces, (3 3/4" tall), so I am hoping that there can be some modification made to the faces themselves and possibly eliminate the need for fingers all together. Will let everyone know when it gets here in a week or so. And I bought mine off Amazon for $38 because i had a $20 gift card and it had free shipping. So $18 tmd.


----------



## goathollow

Ttt


----------



## MICCOX

ttt


----------



## Don Schultz

westdraw said:


> How does this work with draw stops such as on elites?? Take them off?


If ya do remove the stops, DO NOT DRAW THE BOW!!!

The latest url to the clamp on Harbor Freight's web site.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-pipe-clamp-with-base-94053.html


----------



## SinatraV

Did not work! The clamp pads were plastic. Sent it back.



SinatraV said:


> Just bought this clamp...
> 
> View attachment 1565395
> 
> http://www.toolbarn.com/jorgensen-3536dr.html
> 
> It has "Deep Reach" faces, (3 3/4" tall), so I am hoping that there can be some modification made to the faces themselves and possibly eliminate the need for fingers all together. Will let everyone know when it gets here in a week or so. And I bought mine off Amazon for $38 because i had a $20 gift card and it had free shipping. So $18 tmd.


----------



## thwackaddict

Is this pipe clamp press fairly stable or does it want to rock over with the bow in it?


----------



## Yankee

For what it's worth, I'm talking to a buddy that has access to a laser cutting machine and asked him for a price on what it'd take to cut a set of the brackets out of 3/8" steel for those that don't want to go the wood route.


----------



## Smoman

Yes sir


----------



## kylecurtis04

marked


----------



## Bushwacked

Awesome idea love it


----------



## Yankee

Well, like anything else, the more you order, the cheaper it gets. But, for laser cut brackets, including the forming to add the bend at the top it would work out to about $40 for a pair of brackets made with 3/8" steel.


----------



## JeffShrugged

I am not handy at all. I feel like I have accomplished something when I change a lightbulb. 

Is anyone making these and selling them? It looks tantalizingly simple but not for me.


----------



## reaper159

Bump. Will this work on a pulse?


----------



## Lookimatree

If anyone is having trouble sourcing material for the fingers, Home Depot sells fence mending plates that are 10" x 1" x 3/16" galvanized steel. Cost about $2.50 each. Pretty easy to figure out how to attach them. And the fleece-type furniture sliders work really well to insulate the limbs from the fingers.


----------



## randydb

I am interested if 3/16 is strong enough. I don't know...I am just pondering how thin you can go before it isn't strong enough.


----------



## Lookimatree

I pressed my #70 alphaburner with it a couple times this weekend without issue. The difference between the 3/16 and 1/4 used by the op isn't much, but like any diy stuff, use it at your discretion.


----------



## ndm

Saved for later

Sent from my USCC_ALCATEL_one_touch_988 using Tapatalk 2


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## nuts&bolts

randydb said:


> I am interested if 3/16 is strong enough. I don't know...I am just pondering how thin you can go before it isn't strong enough.


If you are worried,
then, double up the plates.


----------



## randydb

Lookimatree said:


> I pressed my #70 alphaburner with it a couple times this weekend without issue. The difference between the 3/16 and 1/4 used by the op isn't much, but like any diy stuff, use it at your discretion.


I get that there is a small diff between 3/16 and 1/4 but there is also the story of the straw that broke the camels back.

Great answer about doubling up the plates. Simple solution that I couldn't think of last night that makes my question moot.


----------



## dpete

I have been following this thread for quite a while now and have wondered if 3/4" or thicker plywood fingers would be strong enough? I would think the multidirectional grains of plywood would allow it to be stronger than regular wood stock, but I'm just guessing there. Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated.


----------



## reaper159

Plywood prob not a good idea. You need a hard solid wood. Jmo


----------



## randydb

I printed out the drawings and measurements of the fingers that are posted earlier here and took them to one of my students who is really talented at metal work and asked if $25 would be a fair price for a set. (I want 2 sets). He was all excited and figured he could easily make 2 sets in an hour and that it was going to be a good hours wage. He plans to use heat shrink to cover the fingers.

So soon I will have a press for me and my buddy. Thanks for this thread.


----------



## nuts&bolts

dpete said:


> I have been following this thread for quite a while now and have wondered if 3/4" or thicker plywood fingers would be strong enough? I would think the multidirectional grains of plywood would allow it to be stronger than regular wood stock, but I'm just guessing there. Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated.


Nope.

Use solid oak.


----------



## reaper159

Got my parts today... Home depot. $39 not bad ...I'm using 3/8 steel fingers though. I'll post pics when I get her done. 


Great idea


----------



## deadeyemark

p47dman said:


> I have used that style clamp for years. Please be careful as I have had them slip many a time.


Make sure you use black steel pipe and not galvanized. I've been using pipe clamps for over 35 yrs in my wood shop and have never had one slip under a load. It just doesn't happen with black pipe. I can with galvanized pipe if the galvanzing flakes off under the dogs from continued use in the same spots. 

Great idea by the way to the OP. I'll definitely be making a set.


----------



## Jimbo45

Love this clamp press idea! If i was better equipped for making the fingers, i would be making one. Anyone use one of these on a heliM? Not sure if the fingers would hold a past parallel bow properly.


----------



## JJSREEZEN

For this press I wouldnt recommend using hard wood, we have the same setup at our club instead of steel fingers we have oak fingers bolted to the pipe clamp, Im thinking maybe 1" think and when using it with my Bowtech Invasion split the oak, and we had to hammer the slide to lossen clamp. I think steel fingers with thick padding would be ideal for the best yet cheapest press. Just IMO


----------



## buckhunter1

Will this work on PSE DNA and OMEN PRO?


----------



## randydb

JJSREEZEN said:


> For this press I wouldnt recommend using hard wood, we have the same setup at our club instead of steel fingers we have oak fingers bolted to the pipe clamp, Im thinking maybe 1" think and when using it with my Bowtech Invasion split the oak, and we had to hammer the slide to lossen clamp. I think steel fingers with thick padding would be ideal for the best yet cheapest press. Just IMO


I have some oak around and considered wood fingers but worried about this happening. Oak is a hard wood but it does have a fairly open grain to it and IMO might split easier than maple. I liked the idea that some people went with where they sandwiched two pieces together with the grains crossing to hopefully make splitting less likely. I have one of my students making me a couple sets of metal fingers right now. Figure I'd rather err on the safe side. 

For Buckhunter1, you will have to check through this thread to see which bows this press has been tried on, but it seems like it is working on pretty well everything people have tried it on. I haven't see anyone post saying it didn't work on xxxxx bow. Even some beyond parallel bows have worked on it.


----------



## buckhunter1

randydb said:


> I have some oak around and considered wood fingers but worried about this happening. Oak is a hard wood but it does have a fairly open grain to it and IMO might split easier than maple. I liked the idea that some people went with where they sandwiched two pieces together with the grains crossing to hopefully make splitting less likely. I have one of my students making me a couple sets of metal fingers right now. Figure I'd rather err on the safe side.
> 
> For Buckhunter1, you will have to check through this thread to see which bows this press has been tried on, but it seems like it is working on pretty well everything people have tried it on. I haven't see anyone post saying it didn't work on xxxxx bow. Even some beyond parallel bows have worked on it.


 I read a lot of them, I will look again. Thanks for the input..


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## reaper159

Yep I got the black pipe and went with a diff design for the steel fingers. I post pics when I can...also made a stand so it doesn't tip.


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## buckhunter1

Sounds good. As soon as I find out if Past parallels work, I'm all in.


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## Art Wells

Here is my past parallel limb spyder turbo being pressed in my press/draw board. I can rotate it 360 degrees, and the bow stays in solid.


----------



## Art Wells

Here is my past parallel limb spyder turbo being pressed in my press/draw board. I can rotate it 360 degrees, and the bow stays in solid.
View attachment 1612557
View attachment 1612557
View attachment 161255
View attachment 161257
View attachment 1612559
View attachment 1612559


----------



## reaper159

Pressed a helium last night it don't get much more past parallel than that.


----------



## Jimbo45

reaper159 said:


> Pressed a helium last night it don't get much more past parallel than that.


Great, thanks for sharing! Pics, pics, pics! I would love to see how the fingers interface the HeliM limbs when pressed. Oh, and if you are interested in making a set of fingers that are HeliM compatible, to sell, I am your buyer!


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## N7XW

Is anyone selling fingers for these?


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## kdog23

This is sweet, I may go this rount rather than the trailer jack just for simplicity.


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## randydb

kdog23 said:


> This is sweet, I may go this rount rather than the trailer jack just for simplicity.


This is simple and so easily portable. Toss it in the back of the truck and you have a portable press in camp.


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## Blackeagle35

I see the screws that attach the finger plate to the press. Did you have to drill and tap hold to attch the plate and where did yu get the screws?


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## Art Wells

Drilled and taped for 10-24 screws. You can buy the screws at most hardware stores.
These are fast, easy,cheap, to build, and work great.


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## reaper159

a few pics,,, ill take more and post.


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## buckhunter1

Art Wells said:


> Here is my past parallel limb spyder turbo being pressed in my press/draw board. I can rotate it 360 degrees, and the bow stays in solid.
> View attachment 1612557
> View attachment 1612557
> View attachment 161255
> View attachment 161257
> View attachment 1612559
> View attachment 1612559



Do you have a parts list where I can get all your parts? Lowes, Harbor freight or Home depot?


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## reaper159

That is a pipe clamp from Home Depot... $12-14, 3/4 inch Black threaded pipe probably 48in from Home Depot, 6 or 8 inch long 1 inch diameter pipe to help binding, and home made fingers. I used 3/8 steel to make mine. Also a few 1/4 grade 8 bolts and nuts and some heat shrink or rubber hose... Thats it!


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## gmtx

Is anyone making and selling fingers for this rig?????

:noidea::noidea::noidea::confused3::confused3::confused3:


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## jlpollard

Finally got around to making one of these.
Works great!!!
I made the jaws out of red oak.
Seems plenty strong.


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## randydb

*Student Made!*

I have a grade 8 student who is quite talented at metal work so I gave him the drawings from one of these earlier pages and paid him to make me two sets. Basically 3/8" steel with heat shrink as the finger covers. I think I might add a couple more pieces of heat shrink to each finger just to make sure I have enough padding. He drew it up using cad, cut out with a plasma cutter at a local shop and then welded them up for me. 

This is a problem, I will be wanting to mount these and press my bow instead of writing report cards! Darn report cards distract me from what I really want to be doing!

An observation...I think 3/8" steel is overkill. If I did this again I would be making them out of 1/4" instead. It would be a touch lighter plus plenty strong enough.

If you notice there is a slot at the bottom. That is because a plasma cutter cant do holes. You either drill a hole yourself or slot into the hole to cut it. Quicker and more efficient cutting a slot.

Cheers


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## jlpollard

Looks pretty good for an 8th grader.
I don't think the slot is going to matter since the fingers are made from 3/8 plate. = ))


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## Jimbo45

I can't believe there is not someone making these fingers and selling them yet. I have my pipe clamp sitting here waiting on fingers. Maybe i will go to home depot and see what i can find to use for wood fingers. I have an idea for special fingers to use on a HeliM.


----------



## randydb

Jimbo45 said:


> I can't believe there is not someone making these fingers and selling them yet. I have my pipe clamp sitting here waiting on fingers. Maybe i will go to home depot and see what i can find to use for wood fingers. I have an idea for special fingers to use on a HeliM.


After reading through these threads I get the idea that anyone that offers to sell these is getting their knuckles rapped if they aren't paying $$ to be a business on here first. I saw one fellow who made a set that wasn't fitting his Hoyt offering to sell that set and a few posts later he was apologizing and retracting that offer. My guess is he got called on the carpet which seems a bit picky to me. Earlier there was someone who was offering them but quit when he was told he had to pay a fee because he didn't think he was selling enough to make $$.

I wonder if someone created a webpage/facebook page selling these fingers if they would get shut down. It seems like there is no problem with people saying "here is a place to buy clamps," but there is a problem if you say "I will sell you fingers." Hopefully I don't catch it for this post.


----------



## randydb

jlpollard said:


> Looks pretty good for an 8th grader.
> I don't think the slot is going to matter since the fingers are made from 3/8 plate. = ))


No, I don't think the slot will matter either. I wonder if you even need to have that entire bottom part that goes around the pipe. Just bolt the finger plate to the clamp pad. Maybe that would fix the binding problem people are having.

This kid is an amazing 8th grader! He is a whiz in a machine shop and with machinery. He built an airboat (think swamp boat with the big fan) last year and rebuilt the 25 horse engine that he put in it. Welds aluminum an fabs all sorts of stuff. Is really good with cad too. Funny thing is he struggles to write or type and reading is just painful for him. But he is a genius in other areas. Really nice kid too. I was pleased to hire him.


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## buckhunter1

I will buy fingers if anyone will sell me some. Metal preferably but would also do wood if offered. I am planning on using a pony or bessy style clamp. PM Me if anyone has the fingers. Thanks!


----------



## kodystan3113

Good Job man!


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## Rhawk86

Jimbo45 said:


> I can't believe there is not someone making these fingers and selling them yet. I have my pipe clamp sitting here waiting on fingers. Maybe i will go to home depot and see what i can find to use for wood fingers. I have an idea for special fingers to use on a HeliM.


Dude, It is not worth it. I would have to charge about 100$ just to make it worth the time. I feel like it is a loss for both ends, you're overpaying-I am not productivily using my time. Then again 100$ is way cheaper than any bow press out there....

Here is mine.. I didn't weld the 1" piece on the moving side, I bet it doesn't move as easy as the ones that have it, but it still works and eliminates the most difficult step IMO.


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## Rhawk86




----------



## jlpollard

If you don't have the pipe welded on the moveable side, I'd at least make sure the edges of the hole has a good size radius on it.
The problem is on the letdown.
Once the fingers are loaded they want to cock backward when you release pressure and dig into the pipe.
That caused them to lock up and you won't be able to release them.

Jim


----------



## kc hay seed

what is the overall lenth of the fingers without me looking through all thease pages? thanks


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## Rhawk86

2" or so.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## Rhawk86

jlpollard said:


> If you don't have the pipe welded on the moveable side, I'd at least make sure the edges of the hole has a good size radius on it.
> The problem is on the letdown.
> Once the fingers are loaded they want to cock backward when you release pressure and dig into the pipe.
> That caused them to lock up and you won't be able to release them.
> 
> Jim


I think I have a solution. I am actually working on getting the piece to resolve this. Right now it is 58$ plus the labor and material for the finger clamps themselves. It will be a nice upgrade.

I am then going to a manufacturer tomorrow to work out cost to produce about 100 fingers. How many people would actually buy these things???


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## Jimbo45

Rhawk86 said:


> I think I have a solution. I am actually working on getting the piece to resolve this. Right now it is 58$ plus the labor and material for the finger clamps themselves. It will be a nice upgrade.
> 
> I am then going to a manufacturer tomorrow to work out cost to produce about 100 fingers. How many people would actually buy these things???


I might, depending on price.


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## Notvaporlocked

Yes I would too, depending on price.


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## Tkrocky

Count me in


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## kc hay seed

yes x-2 depending on price.


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## Rhawk86

Well I was thinking about including a extension for the acme screw and feet to hold the hole thing to prevent rotation.

Having trouble finding a cheap replacement handle for the screw.

I will try to get the fingers finished first.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## buckhunter1

Let us know.. I am interested but need to know if a PSE DNA will work with them.


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## HOLDFASTHANK

Alright I've read just about every post on this thread, I'm building my press now and I'm wondering if / how did someone mod the fingers or clamps to do a cam or limb swap. I'm really only concerned with swapping cams. I'm using 3/8 steel for my fingers


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## jlpollard

You should have plenty of room for swapping cams.
Limbs are different.
Pipe clamps, without moding it, don't have enough travel.

Sent from my LG-P930 using Tapatalk 2


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## HOLDFASTHANK

My fingers are around 2 3/4 deep , that'll be enough clearance to swap cams on a reezen?


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## jlpollard

You'll have to measure to be sure but I have plenty of room if I needed to swap cams on either my Bowtech Assassin or Mathews LX.


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## Rhawk86

The acme screw needs to be longer if you want to do anything without a string on.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## ESKEW

i feel like i can make it work if it doesnt , this things taking me forever...damn 3/8 ths plate steel sumbetch pissin meh off. ill be happy when this is done.


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## ESKEW

hahaha this is HOLDFASTHANK , im on my buddies profile, we're building it together. forgot he was signed in


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## Rhawk86

I think 3/8 is overkill. I have 3/8 and 1/4. Are you installing the 1" piece of pipe people are using on the crank side?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## HOLDFASTHANK

Yea after working with the 3/8 I feel it's a bit overkill, but least now I know they'll never bend. Yes I have the 1" pipe on the crank side. Don't have a welder so I'm taking it to my buddy today or tomorrow to weld it for me, should only take him a few minutes.


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## ESKEW

get your ass over here and get this thing down to him... :/ we are in the home stretch.


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## babassangler

A carpenter's clamp re-purposed with engineering and machine work; great job, couldn't have done any better myself! (probably worse)


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## randydb

You are right...3/8 is definitely overkill.


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## reaper159

for cam swap make sure the fingers are wide enough and it should be no problem. I need to make some wider fingers because my three track cam on my admiral is to wide to fit between my fingers.


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## Ridge4Runner

5 stars for this thread. Built one of these today and it came out better than I had hoped. Thanks to the OP for the idea and everyone who contributed.


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## GrayTech

gashogford said:


> I am a builder/ finish carpenter and have used pipe clamps for years. They don't move,they bind up on the pipe big time! I can crush pieces of wood with just hand pressure. Holes would just weaken the pipe.


I second that. The way pressure is applied by the bow is ideal to keep the sliding end perpendicular to the pipe and properly locked. 
I use a pipe clamp press myself which looks almost identical to this one. The only mod is 2 clamps to attach the pipe onto my bench.






Stripped these off an old broken wheelchair. 

I'm also building a clamp to stabilize / loosely secure the bow riser to avoid accidents (the bow moving or being knocked out of the press). 






This piece is from a bicycle handlebars and clamps onto the 3/4" pipe perfectly. Eventually I will mod this piece into a bow vice as well.


----------



## cowboyup_again

Tag


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## randydb

That bicycle handlebar riser is perfect genius! Hilarious and genius!


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## vhram

Thats a nice setup.


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## nycredneck

Just finished my press with wooden fingers made with two 3/4" X 6" red oak glued together and leftover from doing my floors. I hade a guy in work drill the holes in the fingers for the pipe and he made them too big but I think I think I can use pvc and make a sleeve to fit inside. It pressed my 2012 Pure which gets new strings next week. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread, I was the 20th poster on this thread and finally got around to making one at post #938.


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## kc hay seed

hey 1955;please post a layout of your wooden fingers with measurements. thanks in advance


----------



## Notvaporlocked

Here are my oak fingers. I doubled the thickness to create a ledge to set the bow on.








The black colored notches allows room to remove y cables from axle.


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## kc hay seed

sent you a pm


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## Notvaporlocked

The bow is just setting on the press with no pressure on the limbs


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## wheelie

With the one piece fingers, are you not limiting the amount of bows you can press. What you doing making sets of them for different bows? As for wooden fingers, to me that is a little scarey. LOL


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## Notvaporlocked

The two 3/4 inch blocks of oak are glued together to make one 1 1/2 inch solid block and the pressure is applied close to the double thick part. A single 3/4 inch piece of clear oak is strong enough by itself. I can't imagine how much force it would take to break the fingers off my double ones. A person could not apply that much pressure on the crank. When I press my bow there is absolutely no flex in the wood.


----------



## beaverman

Notvaporlocked said:


> The two 3/4 inch blocks of oak are glued together to make one 1 1/2 inch solid block and the pressure is applied close to the double thick part. A single 3/4 inch piece of clear oak is strong enough by itself. I can't imagine how much force it would take to break the fingers off my double ones. A person could not apply that much pressure on the crank. When I press my bow there is absolutely no flex in the wood.


The problem with your design is that pressing "near the double thick part" doesn't matter all the pressure is still being applied to the single piece of oak. Do you have any binding issues letting the bow down? I would think the extra thickness would help a bit with binding. I built one of these presses a few years ago with 1" oak fingers, worked well but would bind up on release so i attached another 1" piece of oak that I sanded a groove in under the pipe attached 90 degrees off the bottom of the fingers so when I let down it presses up along about 5-6 inches of the pipe and prevents binding. I've always wondered about the wood shearing under pressure and I guess how you cut the fingers in reference to the grain of the wood could make a big difference, but oak is pretty strong and I haven't had any issues yet. I have other presses I use most of the time but this pipe clamp press is great to take to a range, camp, etc where you don't want to haul a full size press.


----------



## Notvaporlocked

beaverman said:


> The problem with your design is that pressing "near the double thick part" doesn't matter all the pressure is still being applied to the single piece of oak. Do you have any binding issues letting the bow down? I would think the extra thickness would help a bit with binding. I built one of these presses a few years ago with 1" oak fingers, worked well but would bind up on release so i attached another 1" piece of oak that I sanded a groove in under the pipe attached 90 degrees off the bottom of the fingers so when I let down it presses up along about 5-6 inches of the pipe and prevents binding. I've always wondered about the wood shearing under pressure and I guess how you cut the fingers in reference to the grain of the wood could make a big difference, but oak is pretty strong and I haven't had any issues yet. I have other presses I use most of the time but this pipe clamp press is great to take to a range, camp, etc where you don't want to haul a full size press.


I applied a couple coats of Cabot deck stain to the wood making a point to get good coverage in the hole which makes the wood slicker. In addition I do add a little lube on the bottom of the pipe where the block rubs. There was a binding issue before these steps but they have eliminated that. Its not a perfect press but for those that do not have access to a torch and welder and do not want to spend very much money it is a very workable press. It is a $20 press after all. I can set my bow in it and have the strings relaxed in 15 seconds and its very portable.

I have some 1/8" thin rubber that I am going to cut and glue to the fingers to eliminate the possibility of scuffing the limb tips.


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## kc hay seed

it looks like one block is about an 1" longer than the one you glued on to make the notch is this right?


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## Notvaporlocked

The fingers stick up 1 3/8 inch above the ledge. 

BTW The black notches that allows me to remove my y cables line up with my Vendetta axles while the bow sits on the ledges. I am not sure if other bows would line up the same. Its the only bow I have that needs a press. If somebody brought a different brand bow to use on this press that has more space between the tip of the limb and the axle it may not work well on my press.


----------



## littleonion

I really like your design but it scares me with past parallel limb bows. I have pse bowmadness 3g and the limb geometry should be similar to your vendetta. Did you do anything to prevent it from squirting out of the press?


----------



## PUGIDOGS

This is my version, I did not do to much different other then making the rests adjustable. This is my 2012 PSE supra. I also press my oldest sons PSE Vendetta XS and my youngest sons Diamond Razor Edge. Worked great for all of them!!!


----------



## Richard932

I built one today from cherry wood. I tried it out on my old brute and my sons micro midas. Crank side binds up on depress bow. I only had a 1 1/8 hole saw so it is has a little play. I'm gonna try to make a different finger set up. I have a drop off of 3 inch c channel from work. I have some connections at work in the metal shop:shade: with all the othe posts of different styles of finger there is a lot of options for me thanks everyone


----------



## C.morris740

Richard932 said:


> I built one today from cherry wood. I tried it out on my old brute and my sons micro midas. Crank side binds up on depress bow. I only had a 1 1/8 hole saw so it is has a little play. I'm gonna try to make a different finger set up. I have a drop off of 3 inch c channel from work. I have some connections at work in the metal shop:shade: with all the othe posts of different styles of finger there is a lot of options for me thanks everyone




I had the same problem with it binding up. Don't know what the solution to this is?


----------



## Rhawk86

C.morris740 said:


> I had the same problem with it binding up. Don't know what the solution to this is?


I have a solution it is just exspensive. I am about to give up trying to make these fingers for everyone that are less than 100$


----------



## Richard932

C.morris740 said:


> I had the same problem with it binding up. Don't know what the solution to this is?


I figured it out. I found a 8" pipe I slide in the hole. Wood on metal sticky metal on metal and some grease works awesome.


----------



## buckhunter1

I am still looking for some metal fingers. Please PM me if you would build me a set. Thanks!


----------



## mcdickson

Im working on one of theses.. will post some pics when finished


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## michaelkronmann

if some one could make some fingers that be helpfull im makeing a press for my club pm plzzzzz


----------



## Poyse2b3

My version of the $20 bow press. It binds a bit on the release but the screw is able to crank it back. Saved me a pile of money already.


----------



## DesiD73

Nice job on that press! 

Unfortunately, I need one with which I can change out the limbs on a past-parallel bow too :/


----------



## buckhunter1

Still willing to pay for fingers if anybody can make me some for a past parallel bow. :shade:


----------



## beaverman

Here is an option for you guys with the wood fingers that are binding. I built this press a few years ago with 1" oak for fingers, upon release it would bind pretty bad so I sanded a groove in another piece of oak and attached it under the pipe so when I release the bow that length of wood is pressing up against the pipe preventing the fingers from binding. It works great with that extra piece of wood. When I built this press I didn't have access to many tools, I used a belt sander to create a groove for the wood to ride along the pipe. A router would probably be much better but it works.


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## michaelkronmann

made mine to day but my bow to big lol need longer pipe


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## JPR79

I would stay away from the hardwood fingers if possible.. mine is not lasting well and I'm starting not to trust it. I think I'm going to use an a-frame trailer jack once I figure out how to do the fingers and replace my pipe clamp press.

I can press my DNA in the pipe clamp with hardwood fingers but it binds really bad when loosening and they are starting to crack. The above post with the angle brackets and wood underneath would help, but I'm still weary about the wood fingers.


----------



## Elite44

bulding mine now, one of the best ideas ive seen in a while


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## mplane72

Pretty slick idea. I made mine the other day. I don't have access to a full machine shop any more but still have a welder so I went the metal route. I did not have a way to drill out the two larger holes in each plate so I laid them out as squares, drilled the corners and mad the cuts with a jig saw. Also, the 1" pipe over the 3/4" pipe was not looking like an easy task so I went with a piece of 1" angle welded to the bottom of the moving plate, much like the wood jaw mod posted above. Make sure to file or grind the corners off the anlge so they can't dig into the pipe Biggest thing to getting it to move smooth was cleaning all the cruddy covering off the pipe. I did this with layout fluid remover but I think any solvent will work.


----------



## km04

This is a great idea, the only thing stopping me is building the fingers. I am not a welder nor do I have access to tools that will cut steel. The wooden fingers look like they might work, just not sure how long they would last. I suppose yo could just make a few sets of the wooden ones and when one breaks you have a replacement already made.


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## newbowthunder

Here is my version of the press.mind you I'm no welder haha


----------



## Pittstate23

newbowthunder said:


> Here is my version of the press.mind you I'm no welder haha


im not seeing anything


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## jlpollard

^^^^^ x2 ^^^^^


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## newbowthunder

Ill upload again


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## newbowthunder

here is my version of the pipe press.
it is before i made limb stops for the press fingers








i wrapped the limb "fingers" in realtree duct tape








thanks to the op for sharing his design with us


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## newbowthunder

Bump for a great idea


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## gpang788

Subscribed


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## mizzo29

I like it.


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## mizzo29

Just got to figure out how to get some fingers.


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## newbowthunder

Real easy guys. The op really made a nice simple design. Really grateful for his insight. Almost bought a press on here for $350+


----------



## Art Wells

Hi Dan,
Here is a sketch of the fingers I made, as in post 887. I just started with 1/2" by 2" bar stock. Two inch is the perfect width for the spyders.
If you have anymore questions just PM me again.
Art


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## Mossy517

Thanks, Art! They are in the machine shop now. I will try to post a pic when they are completed.


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## Mossy517

Done!! Moving right along!!


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## rounder911

Save for later


----------



## gpang788

Have a quick question. Just recently build my own press. Had the steel fingers cut by a machinist for $40 (Lots of them around where I live) A little pricey I know but I don't mind  Was surprised by how easy it is to use .

Question is, how much can you press a bow without breaking the limbs. Just replaced my bowstring with a new one yesterday. Bow is a Reflex bighorn set to 50LBs. The new string is made about a 1/4" shorter then the old one to allow for creep /stretch. Thus, I had to press the limbs a little more then was needed to remove the old one. Total press travel at this point was about 1.5", i.e each limb would have therefore travelled about 0.75" I think.

Is this too much travel to press a bow? I know every bow has a different limb breaking point. But as a general rule of thumb, how much roughly is the breaking point of a compound limb?


----------



## gpang788

Pics of my press for those who like to see.

Used a 1.5m railway bar clamp instead of a pipe clamp. Clamp works real easy without any binding at all due to the horizontal "rail" along the entire length of the metal bar which fit into the groves of both clamps. If you look carefully at the pics you can see it. 

















Total cost: $15 (clamp) + $40 (fingers) = $55


----------



## acesbettor

Thanks for the idea! Made mine the other day and just made legs on each end tonight. I think i'll be notching the ends of the fingers next.


----------



## wpod

gpang788 said:


> Have a quick question. Just recently build my own press. Had the steel fingers cut by a machinist for $40 (Lots of them around where I live) A little pricey I know but I don't mind  Was surprised by how easy it is to use .
> 
> Question is, how much can you press a bow without breaking the limbs. Just replaced my bowstring with a new one yesterday. Bow is a Reflex bighorn set to 50LBs. The new string is made about a 1/4" shorter then the old one to allow for creep /stretch. Thus, I had to press the limbs a little more then was needed to remove the old one. Total press travel at this point was about 1.5", i.e each limb would have therefore travelled about 0.75" I think.
> 
> Is this too much travel to press a bow? I know every bow has a different limb breaking point. But as a general rule of thumb, how much roughly is the breaking point of a compound limb?


How far do the limb tips travel when you draw the bow?

Sent from my VS950 4G using Tapatalk 2


----------



## kerrye

The one problem with this press that no one seems to have picked up on and conquered is the length of the acme rod that comes with the pipe clamps. A few dollars worth of 5/8" acme rod and a nut and a little modification to the clamp makes this a completely different tool Picture below shows you what I mean.


----------



## gpang788

kerrye said:


> The one problem with this press that no one seems to have picked up on and conquered is the length of the acme rod that comes with the pipe clamps. A few dollars worth of 5/8" acme rod and a nut and a little modification to the clamp makes this a completely different tool Picture below shows you what I mean.
> 
> View attachment 1778836


Pics?


----------



## kerrye

What pics do you want? The one I attached shows the major change to the set up. The other end of the press looks just like everyone has done it. I cut down the end of the original clamp part that was threaded for the acme rod and did a little machining on the end of the rod, welded a 5/8 acme nut into place and tripled the length of travel of the press. At the time, I had a couple bows that I couldn't press with the original build because it just did not have enough travel to do the job. Last January, I sold the older bows I had and bought a Diamond Infinite Edge. No longer have a need for a press. I can do anything to my Diamond that needs doing while sitting in an easy chair with two allen wrenches.


----------



## gpang788

kerrye said:


> .. Picture below shows you what I mean.
> 
> View attachment 1778836





kerrye said:


> .. The one I attached shows the major change to the set up. .



Sorry Kerrye but I think you may have posted an invisible pic perhaps?..LOL


----------



## beaverman

The picture is there on my computer


----------



## kerrye

gpang788 said:


> Sorry Kerrye but I think you may have posted an invisible pic perhaps?..LOL


Gpang, both of your posts show the picture...LOL


----------



## deputy83

I am interested in building one of these. A concern I have is removing the yolk cables with the bow pressed with wooden fingers. One person on here made some grooves to alleviate this. What other options are there or is it even a problem?


----------



## nuts&bolts

deputy83 said:


> I am interested in building one of these. A concern I have is removing the yolk cables with the bow pressed with wooden fingers. One person on here made some grooves to alleviate this. What other options are there or is it even a problem?



Use hardwood, like oak,
say 1-inch thick or 1.5-inches thick
and you will be JUST fine.

So,
say you make the OAK fingers 3-inches wide,
but your edge to edge distance on your bow limbs
are only 2-inches wide.

Then,
you run out of clearance
between the limb tip and the outside diameter of the bushing
for the top axle, for the two buss cable end loops.

Simple fix.

Make an oak shim
that matches the width of the TOP LEFT limb tip
and
make another oak shim
that matches the width of the TOP RIGHT limb tip.

Use some hot melt glue
and add the shims, the spacers
on the oak fingers
so that the spacers exactly match the position of the top axle split limbs.

Now,
you have room
between the face of the limb tip
and the bushing,
so that you can easily remove the yoke cable end loops.


----------



## gpang788

kerrye said:


> Gpang, both of your posts show the picture...LOL


Holy Cow!...


----------



## gpang788

kerrye said:


> What pics do you want? The one I attached shows the major change to the set up. The other end of the press looks just like everyone has done it. I cut down the end of the original clamp part that was threaded for the acme rod and did a little machining on the end of the rod, welded a 5/8 acme nut into place and tripled the length of travel of the press. At the time, I had a couple bows that I couldn't press with the original build because it just did not have enough travel to do the job. Last January, I sold the older bows I had and bought a Diamond Infinite Edge. No longer have a need for a press. I can do anything to my Diamond that needs doing while sitting in an easy chair with two allen wrenches.


How do you attach the acme rod into the hole in the clamp behind the fingers?


----------



## kerrye

I turned a slot in the acme rod and used a short set screw that fits in the slot. The rod can turn in the clamp but not pull out.


----------



## gpang788

kerrye said:


> I turned a slot in the acme rod and used a short set screw that fits in the slot. The rod can turn in the clamp but not pull out.


How about a close up pic of how this is accomplished?


----------



## Stevie777

Bookmarked...thanks.


----------



## kerrye

gpang788 said:


> How about a close up pic of how this is accomplished?



First pic shows how I cut out the body of the screw section and welded in a 5/8" acme nut. Second shows how the end of the acme rod is turned to seat into the clamp and the set screw holds it in. (apologize for the sloppy welding job but sticking steel to cast should have been brazed)


----------



## gpang788

How hard is it to weld cast iron to steel Kerrye?

I've been told its not easy


----------



## kerrye

It's NOT easy. Had I done the welding myself, I would have brazed it together, but a friend said he thought he could do it OK, and he did, but it ain't pretty. A better way to go might be getting a clamp set that has standard acme threads instead of the Chinese stuff from HF. The "acme" thread part from HF is not standard and the 5/8" rod I got from Grainger would not thread through the clamp. Thats why I cut out the threaded part of the clamp body and welded the acme nut in it. Perhaps I should have welded up a steel substitute for the HF clamp body with an acme nut welded in. That would have looked a lot neater.


----------



## deputy83

Alright...got my clamps today. I had some 3/4 inch oak laying around. Now I have a couple questions. First is how and what depth are you guys notching the wood out for holding the limb tips? What's the easiest way of shaving that little bit from the fingers? Also what's the easiest way for cutting the cam channel out of the wood fingers?


----------



## fap1800

kerrye said:


> It's NOT easy. Had I done the welding myself, I would have brazed it together, but a friend said he thought he could do it OK, and he did, but it ain't pretty. A better way to go might be getting a clamp set that has standard acme threads instead of the Chinese stuff from HF. The "acme" thread part from HF is not standard and the 5/8" rod I got from Grainger would not thread through the clamp. Thats why I cut out the threaded part of the clamp body and welded the acme nut in it. Perhaps I should have welded up a steel substitute for the HF clamp body with an acme nut welded in. That would have looked a lot neater.


The standard 5/8 rod wouldn't thread into the clamp? I'm assuming it's the threads because the HF rod appears to measure 5/8.


----------



## Jezza

chanced across this thread and wondering if anyone tried this clamp yet? would the high profile give bad leverage?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEEP-THROAT-WOOD-WORKING-BAR-GLUING-PIPE-CLAMP-TOOL-/290627410561


----------



## Jezza

Jezza said:


> chanced across this thread and wondering if anyone tried this clamp yet? would the high profile give bad leverage?
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEEP-THROAT-WOOD-WORKING-BAR-GLUING-PIPE-CLAMP-TOOL-/290627410561


http://jltclamps.com/302_clamp

Just providing ideas no pricing though


----------



## andyjones

Thats pretty slick


----------



## bowabuk

Marked for later !!!


----------



## 5965derek

Built mine recently for my z7 extreme and works like a charm! Thanks to the OP!!


----------



## 77Walton77

I like how portable it is and it isnt bulky and take up a lot of space. 
But, is it hard to keep it stable(stay up right) while you are cranking in on the limbs?


----------



## jj2774

does anyone have an idea on where i can get fingers made


----------



## Mike W.

77Walton77 said:


> I like how portable it is and it isnt bulky and take up a lot of space.
> But, is it hard to keep it stable(stay up right) while you are cranking in on the limbs?


Mine is a bit hard to keep steady and I plan to make wider feet for it. I'm thinking a 6" piece of angle iron bolted to the existing feet should do the trick.


----------



## mikelleen

Looks good going to make mine tomorrow. Off to Harbor Freight I go!


----------



## bluestreaker

That is a great idea :thumbup:
Thanks Race59 for the all the info!!!


----------



## JustinN

Love it! Wish I had the time to build one. How much would you sell it for?


----------



## wpod

Got mine built today. Wooden finger version. 
Tested it on my PSE and it worked but was very hard to turn.
Just need to lube and/or polish the parts with friction. 
All in all it is functional and was a project I did with my son (got him off the Xbox).

Sent from my VS950 4G using Tapatalk


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## stanleybowhuntr

As judged by the tremendous response a heck of an idea! Making one this weekend. A question on attaching the fingers to the press. Looks like you drilled and tapped 4 screws on each finger. Is it necessary to use four screws? What size/thread tap did you use? Tx again for the idea.


----------



## Wand'rin Star

This is very nice--I like the fact that you can do any bow of different ATA lenghts--I am going to build this one--Well done !!


----------



## wpod

JustinN said:


> Love it! Wish I had the time to build one. How much would you sell it for?


Mine took about 3 hours total to build. Wooden fingers cut with a hand saw and auger bits in a drill press. Could use a hand drill just as easily.

Sent from my VS950 4G using Tapatalk


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## shooter jon

Just finished my fingers!!!


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## timmoore87

Does anyone have any idea if the metal fingers will work on my bowtech experience?


----------



## cgs1967

I think you did a great job and were very creative. That is a cool press. Very simple and simple is a good thing. Thanks for sharing with us.


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## turkeytom

marked


----------



## jacobh

Wow this is just what I need!!! Anyone who's making the fingers want to sell me a set? Please pm me Ill buy a set. Thanks


----------



## Turkeyhunt

Bought my clamps today! I am going to use red oak for the fingers for now, until I can build the metal fingers. This is great especially for someone on a budget. In the last 3 months purchased two $400 bows, one for me and one for my son. Can't afford another $200-$300 for a bow press and other items I need for tuning. LOL I will have to rely on these DIY projects for now. I want to do all my own adjustments and tuning. I also want to teach my 12 year old!


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## Msokol13

Tag


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## wpod

It just needs a larger handle. I find it very difficult to turn and my bows are set at only 58 lbs

Sent from my VS950 4G using Tapatalk


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## MADZUKI

That's a great idea !


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## Yooper720

I followed all the original posters instructions on this build. The press works awesome on my Hoyt. If you build this press make sure you put the 1" pipe over the 3/4" pipe. If you do this you won't have any problems with the press binding up. Here are a few pics of my end result.


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## Geeman

Carnage, Agenda, Motive, (Attack??) Pipe clamp press. Picture Heavy.

The slot for the cams is 1 inch wide and about 3-1/2" deep, measure your cams.

You will need the Last Chance Archery Limb Adapters, two 3/8" x 4" x3" Square U-bolts, found at Menards (each cut to leave about an inch long piece on the non-threaded side for a total of 4 "fingers" which ends will be coated in plastic dip) and the rest of the pipe clamp press stuff outlined in this thread (Harbor Freight clamps, 3/4" black pipe, 1" pipe to nest over the 3/4" pipe, grease to put over the business end of the 3/4" pipe before you bolt it onto the pipe clamp, 6" x 9" x 1-3/4" actual thickness, solid hard wood [I used 2" thick rough cut, tight grained, hard maple planed down to 1-3/4" actual thickness), epoxy to glue the 1" pipe inside the 1-3/8" holes you bore thru the hardwood, a table saw, a hack saw to cut the U bolts, a drill press and some Plasti Dip tool dip to coat the working ends of the cut u-bolts (I used a dremel to sand out the inside corners of the 3/8" holes drilled thru the hardwood so the "elbow" of the u bolt joint would fit to allow the working , plastic coated part of the u-bolt to sit flat against the hardwood after they were tightened down with washers and nuts).

I made a rabbet cut, about 1/4" thick at the top of the hardwood, left a 1/2" part of the hardwood intact (I used a very thin cut in the middle from my saw blade to help lock the plastic dipped u-bolts in place once they were bolted down) into which I drilled the 3/8" holes for the threaded end of the cut U-bolts, and then below that made a dado type cut of 3/8" deep and about 1/2" wide to allow the fat part of the LCA limb adapters to fit into the hardwood. 

Note the top rabbet cut is necessary for pressing the Carnage (and probably the Attack, I do not have one) because as you press the bow, the LCA limb adapters will pivot on the coated U-bolt towards the hardwood, keeping the pressure on the limb tips, instead of transferring the pressure up the limb tip thru the LCA limb adapter where it does not belong.

For those of you working with metal, maybe you can use 3/8" or thicker plate, cut your 1 inch slot for the cams and drill, then weld the u-bolts onto the plate and that might work as "fingers" to lock into the LCA limb adapters for pressing.

Use this information at your own risk. I do not think anybody can get me for infringing on any finger patents with this set up!!! I dipped the u-bolts twice to get my desired thickness of Plasti Dip.

LCA has an instructional video where they are pressing a Bear Method using their limb adapters and an LCA press. I have pressed my Bear Carnage and Bear Agenda using these limb adapters and my pipe clamp press, after backing out the limb bolts some. More pictures follow, I hope.


----------



## Geeman

More pictures of Carnage pipe clamp press.


----------



## Geeman

more pictures


----------



## mdodraw29

Bought the press yesterday at Harbor Freight. I have a supply of rough cut black walnut, will this be a hard enough wood for my fingers?


----------



## Geeman

There are so many variables, only you can make that call. Is it tight grained with no imperfections and the grain running the right way? How thick is it? how wide do you plan on making the parts falling outside the cam slot or the fingers? Wider is better with wood. You can always plane it down and glue up and clamp a couple of pieces to make it stronger and thicker. Some here have used 1-3/4 inch thick cherry which has a scaled Janka hardness around that of walnut.


----------



## stanleybowhuntr

Completed the pipe clamp press but am unsure if it is safe or perhaps will damage the bow (insanity cpxl). Fabricated the fingers out of 3/8" steel with a depth of 3" and 5 degree bend simila to many shown on this thread. In my typical fashion I should have done a bit more planning as it looks like I will have only 1&1/16" of finger space in order for the insanity cpxl cam to move through the fingers unobstructed. The bow also sits awkwardly as it rests on the metal supports for the axle (couldn't find the proper name) as opposed to the limb ends. So, two issues. First, will 1&1/16" of finger length be adequate to keep the bow safely pressed? Second, will pressing the bow so that the primary press contact is on the metal axle support be a problem? Any help is appreciated!


----------



## rpwin18

Quick question, how do you adjust to different ata's? Or did you design this specifically for your bow?


----------



## Geeman

The end opposite of the end with the screw can be moved left and right (it clamps onto the pipe, thusly named a pipe clamp press)so it can handle different ata bows.


----------



## rpwin18

Haha I now feel stupid, I was starin at it in Home Depot the other day thinkin to myself, how in the world would this thing move more than the 2.5 inch screw but now I got it. Thanks!


----------



## Arrcon

Great idea. Saw nuts and bolts talking about it in a different thread and knew I had to make one. Thanks guys for the input


----------



## IrregularPulse

Anyone selling fingers or selling these complete yet? I'd love to buy one with metal fingers for my bow madness.36"ATA. Hopefully it could work my brothers stinger as well.


----------



## AldoTheApache

I believe Ive read this whole thread but am still curious if this press will work with a Bowtech experience?


----------



## 4 Fletch

Yesterday I had a look in Princess Auto at this one
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Bar-And-F-clamp/60-in-Deep-Reach-Bar-Clamp/8016844.p

While I like the indentations intended to prevent slippage, it seems flimsy to me. If anybody has used it to build a bow press, please correct me. 

At Lowes I saw http://www.lowes.ca/clamps-vises/bessey-2-clamp_8786374.html?linkloc=reCanonical
It appears to be strong enough.


----------



## minndroptine

Very nice. I like that better than the strap ones. Need a nice portable one for travel.


----------



## djmann

Does anyone have pics of fingers they've made for an experience?


----------



## Outsider

subscribed


----------



## OregonKDS

Tagged


----------



## vthunter

Nice job!!!! Will it fit about any bow??? Should sell them.......

Vthunter

Mission Blaze


----------



## CJC98

Great idea!


----------



## BagginBigguns

djmann said:


> Does anyone have pics of fingers they've made for an experience?


Does anyone here have an answer to this question? I'm wondering the same thing. Thanks!


----------



## BagginBigguns

Here's my implementation of the pipe clamp press concept with another option for the anti-bind aspect of the design. It's shown pressing a Bowtech Experience.


----------



## grimmsterdad

Flyboy718 said:


> What is NPT pipe and where can I pick it up? Does Lowe's carry it? How long of a piece do I need to get for this press?


NPT is not a type of pipe, it describes the threads on a pipe...

NPT = National Pipe Thread


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello
Tagged for later. Nice Thanks


----------



## BigShow

Great idea. I added 2






of these to be able to screw or clamp it down.


----------



## waldopepper

Just finished my bow press. Pretty much "stock" as designed. Already used it several times for some maintenance. Definitely a handy thing to have. Mounted mine to a 6" x 48" piece of ply.
Too Much Fun


----------



## grimmsterdad

Why not something like this for cams with draw stops? that way one does not need to remove the stops to press the bow.


----------



## Jasolis

Curious if this works for bows that require limb tip compression like Bowtech's?


----------



## jwilson48

lets put this back into view. i just built mine tonight and after careful consideration, it appears to be working fine with my obsession phoenix (beyond parallel limbs). thanks for a great idea to make a cheap bow press. i was about to spend much more on a portable press that would have been a bigger pain to use.


----------



## Tino B

jwilson48 said:


> lets put this back into view. i just built mine tonight and after careful consideration, it appears to be working fine with my obsession phoenix (beyond parallel limbs). thanks for a great idea to make a cheap bow press. i was about to spend much more on a portable press that would have been a bigger pain to use.


Did you go with the metal or wood fingers for your DIY press?
I plan to work on phoenix using my press and would appreciate any info on what works.


----------



## jwilson48

I used wood. I used cheap 2x4 which nobody recommends but I doubled it so its basically 4x4. Then cut small pieces as stops. It isn't pretty but works great. I've already used it more times than I can count. You never realize how much you will use one until you own one. All those times you think maybe I need a 1/2 twist to make that peep perfect or you lose a 1/2 lb of draw due to string stretch...fix it yourself in no time for free


----------



## flinginairos

Went through this entire thread and ended up making one. Works great! I had all the materials except the clamp so I have exactly $12 in it. I'll post some pics soon of it in action!


----------



## acer-m14

I just went 80% thru this thread and came up with idea for you all on a mod to the fingers

make the blue finger plate with a wide slot then make different red fingers in different widths 
so you can fit this to all bow cam/limb widths.

Also the red fingers can be moved up and down , the lower the better and could help with the
binding issues since the force would be lower to the pipe.

you could make the red fingers from 3/16 to 1/4 " angle iron and trim to your needs.


----------



## downumbowhunter




----------



## Texas Monster

I actually built one of these about 6 yrs ago and am still using it it works great.The only thing I did different is drilled a hole thru the crank end and the pipe then put a bolt thru it to keep clamp on pipe in case threads malfunction.


----------



## Strider1

gauchoand said:


> This is an awesome Idea. By far the greatest DIY press I have ever seen...



I agree. I started mine today. A great idea, thank you


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello All
Very nice DIY bow press. Well done. 

Guys I have been following this thread for quite a while now.
Looking at that clamp I just now saw another archery product.
That could be built very easy. Believe I will make one.

Didn't want to hy jack this nice thread. 
If interested Pm. me.[ Later


----------



## flinginairos

downumbowhunter said:


>


Does your bind at all when letting it down? Mine binds a bit when letting down so I have to tap it with a wrench and it will release. Not a big deal but was just wondering.


----------



## MPKO

Sorry for the bad pictures, but here's my version. I have understood that it is not recommended to press bowtech bows directly from bearings so I did it like this. My version v.0.02


----------



## MPKO

One more pic


----------



## downumbowhunter

flinginairos said:


> Does your bind at all when letting it down? Mine binds a bit when letting down so I have to tap it with a wrench and it will release. Not a big deal but was just wondering.


A little but I put some bow string wax on it and it slides free for a while


----------



## MPKO

New version and works great.


----------



## Strider1

I finished building mine this morning, used it on the bow, twisted the strings and now I can store it??
Really a great press but it did run my more, almost $30
Great post and thank you


----------



## nismomike

Just finished mine. Pretty happy with how well it works!








Added a set screw and lock wire pin to the rear clamp so it can't rotate or slip unless loosened and pin removed. 








Bolt through threaded area as well.


----------



## elkfuler

I'm putting together the items I need for the metal version of this bow vise. I'm running into pipe size issues though. All I can find is schedule 40 pipe and 1 inch black pipe doesn't fit over 3/4. I've attached a dimensions chart. What SCH pipe did you guys use?


----------



## elkfuler

Race59, and others who made the metal version,

What sort of pipe did you use? Schedule 40 black pipe 1" has I.D. of 1.049 but 3/4 has O.D. of 1.050 so without a lot of work the 1 inch won't fit over the 3/4. But there are so many people who have posted here using your design that I must be missing something. I've read most, if not all, the posts but I can't find any thing on pipe specs. Guess I'll head over to the steel supply later today to see if they can help me out but am hoping someone here with the experience can help.


----------



## Outsider

elkfuler said:


> Race59, and others who made the metal version,
> 
> What sort of pipe did you use? Schedule 40 black pipe 1" has I.D. of 1.049 but 3/4 has O.D. of 1.050 so without a lot of work the 1 inch won't fit over the 3/4. But there are so many people who have posted here using your design that I must be missing something. I've read most, if not all, the posts but I can't find any thing on pipe specs. Guess I'll head over to the steel supply later today to see if they can help me out but am hoping someone here with the experience can help.


I used 3/4" black pipe that I purchased at home depot. The OD is 7/8" and it fits pretty darn good


----------



## elkfuler

Thanks Pysiek,

That's interesting definitely. The 3/4 I bought from Home Depot is over 1" OD.


----------



## nismomike

It's because the 3/4 npt is based on the diameter of the first round of threads. Pipe thread (npt) is tapered, vs straight thread. 3/4 npt has an O.D. of 1.050


----------



## dlehnert

Great idea, I will have to try this


----------



## elkfuler

Problem solved. I don't know what type of pipe my 1" was but it was waaaay thick walled. Maybe SCH 80? A standard 1" pipe nipple from the hardware store (likely sch 40) fit just right over the 3/4 just like everyone said. Gonna be a piece of cake now.


----------



## whitie_08

Saving this for later


----------



## kentuckybowhntr

this is the best thread ever on this site I have seen.


----------



## JDS-1

I made one of theses when this thread first showed up and still have it to this day, works great too!!


----------



## gaisom

If you were drilling holes to keep that end from moving it would be very simple to get some short sections of rod, and once the ram end of the clamp was locked in place you could back the drive screw off and then insert short rods to give you more compression distance. Rinse and repeat for as long as you wanted if you had a pocket on the rods end so it couldn't buckle upwards.


----------



## HoytND

So what were to happen if the fingers were not bent in? My plans are to double up on the fingers with 3/8" flat metal but leave the inner fingers shorter for the back ends of the limbs to rest on.


----------



## buckshot97

I'm building one of these right now, saw it a few years ago. What a great idea!


----------



## caspian

HoytND said:


> So what were to happen if the fingers were not bent in? My plans are to double up on the fingers with 3/8" flat metal but leave the inner fingers shorter for the back ends of the limbs to rest on.


the tips are there mostly to stop the limbs climbing out of the fingers. probably not so necessary if you're just pressing 1/2" to change strings, but if you need to break a bow down then they would be a consideration.


----------



## buckshot97

I built it this afternoon it works but might try to make some new fingers.


----------



## dr.shwack_em

I made one and was pressing a 40# pse fever one and the screw snapped now its stuck in the press any ideas to get it out?


----------



## djmann

dr.shwack_em said:


> I made one and was pressing a 40# pse fever one and the screw snapped now its stuck in the press any ideas to get it out?
> View attachment 2169548
> View attachment 2169549


If your bow is still stuck, carefully tap back on the bottom of the clamp, it should free up. I did the exact same thing on an experience, i didnt use the 1 in pipe over the 3/4 to guide the clamp and it got in a bind.


----------



## nuts&bolts

dr.shwack_em said:


> I made one and was pressing a 40# pse fever one and the screw snapped now its stuck in the press any ideas to get it out?
> View attachment 2169548
> View attachment 2169549


Use a bowmaster portable press...standard version..no bracket
to press your bow. Bowmaster will hold bow together...press bow 1/8th inch more
or 1/4-inch more...enough to relieve pressure on the pipe clamp press fingers.

If you build pipe clamp again...use 3/4-inch pipe clamp...Jorgensen brand pipe clamp.
Jorgensen pipe clamp uses acme thread screw...many times stronger.


----------



## Camp

Sweet it would work in a pinch


----------



## AKFF

jacobh said:


> Wow this is just what I need!!! Anyone who's making the fingers want to sell me a set? Please pm me Ill buy a set. Thanks


I'm building mine now. Saw this post a couple nights ago & thought I might make an extra set or two to sell. NOPE! As much time & effort as I put into mine, I wouldn't sell a set for under $200 [emoji1] Man, that's a lot of work! 

I guess I failed to thoroughly consider the question "how do you drill a 1 1/8 hole in 1/4" steel?" (Stainless in my case) Guess I've always been able to figure out the details as I go... well, I did, but with much effort. Unibits take a LONG time to step up to 1 1/8". 

I also realized welding is NOT like riding a bicycle. If you could do it well in high school, you can't necessarily still. It took a lot of time with the angle grinder to make it look welded together, not like it had been stuck together using hundreds of steel ball bearings. Even so, I figure it would still be considered barely passable by any second-day student in high school welding class. 

The hard part's done in any case. The rest should be cake compared to the first.









Sorry the picture's so cluttered. The ones with a more solid background didn't turn out.


----------



## bonecollector66

tag , I may build one


----------



## Strider1

AKFF said:


> I'm building mine now. Saw this post a couple nights ago & thought I might make an extra set or two to sell. NOPE! As much time & effort as I put into mine, I wouldn't sell a set for under $200 [emoji1] Man, that's a lot of work!
> 
> I guess I failed to thoroughly consider the question "how do you drill a 1 1/8 hole in 1/4" steel?" (Stainless in my case) Guess I've always been able to figure out the details as I go... well, I did, but with much effort. Unibits take a LONG time to step up to 1 1/8".


I made mine out of aluminum and turned the welded on sleeve in my lathe after drilling to 1 inch
I love my press, looks good and works


----------



## AKFF

Strider1 said:


> I made mine out of aluminum and turned the welded on sleeve in my lathe after drilling to 1 inch
> I love my press, looks good and works


Yes, that does look good. I'll see what I can find in aluminum if I have to make another set. Just found that I've only got about 1/16" clearance around the sides of my cams on the General, so no room to add hose, guess I'll rivet nylon pads on. Anyone have limb & cam measurements for a CPXL so I can see if I'll need to build another set of fingers? Waiting on mine to be delivered.


----------



## dr.shwack_em

Finished my newer version didnt find the right pipe to weld for a collar so I bend a steel shingle (dirt cheap) and it works great no binding, and presses my pse's (beyond parallel limbs like nothing.


----------



## dr.shwack_em




----------



## iswandy

between steel plate finger (3/4" thick) vs wood block finger (2" thick), which one will be easier to remove & replace string/cable from cam? need to make sure it's work for string changing before I build one for myself


----------



## ferincr

Let's give this thread a bump...
First of all thanks to Race59 for sharing his design with everybody.
Now, I'm new to this sport but moving fast, I think I've already made all the mistakes you can expect a newbie to make (and yup, I accidentally dry fire my bow already :zip so...
I've been thinking on how to make a press for a couple of days until I bumped into this thread and since I'm better at wood than metal (my tools are more wood oriented) I'm building one of these with wooden fingers so I have a question for those that built wooden versions of this.

I don't have a 1" pipe to sleeve the clamps/wood ends to minimize torque (I already saw somebody breaking the screw due to it) so on top of trying to make the fingers as short as possible to lessen the leverage in the system do you think it would be better to make the hole in the wood tight so the pipe fits "snug" to keep it as perpendicular as possible or better to make it big enough so the wood would not seize against the pipe and let the clamp/screw take the stress?
I have the choice of 1" and 2" hardwood to make the ends I also saw some people building a L type of shelf underneath the pipe, how that works? does it make any difference?
Thanks in advance,
Fernando


----------



## nuts&bolts

ferincr said:


> Let's give this thread a bump...
> First of all thanks to Race59 for sharing his design with everybody.
> Now, I'm new to this sport but moving fast, I think I've already made all the mistakes you can expect a newbie to make (and yup, I accidentally dry fire my bow already :zip so...
> I've been thinking on how to make a press for a couple of days until I bumped into this thread and since I'm better at wood than metal (my tools are more wood oriented) I'm building one of these with wooden fingers so I have a question for those that built wooden versions of this.
> 
> I don't have a 1" pipe to sleeve the clamps/wood ends to minimize torque (I already saw somebody breaking the screw due to it) so on top of trying to make the fingers as short as possible to lessen the leverage in the system do you think it would be better to make the hole in the wood tight so the pipe fits "snug" to keep it as perpendicular as possible or better to make it big enough so the wood would not seize against the pipe and let the clamp/screw take the stress?
> I have the choice of 1" and 2" hardwood to make the ends I also saw some people building a L type of shelf underneath the pipe, how that works? does it make any difference?
> Thanks in advance,
> Fernando


Hola Fernando.

Try this design by BagginBigguns.



L shaped bracket and EYE bolt.

Make the through hole for the L bracket larger than the pipe for clearance...for easy sliding. The eye bolt prevents binding, when you crank and uncrank the pipe clamp bowpress.


----------



## nuts&bolts

ferincr said:


> Let's give this thread a bump...
> First of all thanks to Race59 for sharing his design with everybody.
> Now, I'm new to this sport but moving fast, I think I've already made all the mistakes you can expect a newbie to make (and yup, I accidentally dry fire my bow already :zip so...
> I've been thinking on how to make a press for a couple of days until I bumped into this thread and since I'm better at wood than metal (my tools are more wood oriented) I'm building one of these with wooden fingers so I have a question for those that built wooden versions of this.
> 
> I don't have a 1" pipe to sleeve the clamps/wood ends to minimize torque (I already saw somebody breaking the screw due to it) so on top of trying to make the fingers as short as possible to lessen the leverage in the system do you think it would be better to make the hole in the wood tight so the pipe fits "snug" to keep it as perpendicular as possible or better to make it big enough so the wood would not seize against the pipe and let the clamp/screw take the stress?
> I have the choice of 1" and 2" hardwood to make the ends I also saw some people building a L type of shelf underneath the pipe, how that works? does it make any difference?
> Thanks in advance,
> Fernando


When you press a bow....the limbs try to spread the wooden fingers outwards. The vertical arms of the wooden fingers tilt away from each other.
This causes the wooden vertical arm to LOCK down on the pipe. You will discover that you can PRESS the bow, but when you want to uncrank your bow press, the wooden finger is LOCKED in position
and you cannot get your bow press to relax.

Make the L bracket...the horizontal leg LONGER, use an eye bolt slightly larger diameter than the pipe backbone....wax or use oil on the pipe backbone
and the wooden finger pipe clamp press will work just great.


----------



## ferincr

Hi Nuts&bolts,
I made it (not as nice looking as yours) but I tried it and works fine.
I had some welding rods to weld cast iron so I welded a piece of upside down L shape metal on the bottom of the clamp and works good enough. 
And yes I tried and re retried all the weld points pressing a solid piece of wood with a lot more pressure than needed for the bow before I tested with the actual bow so the weldings are ugly but solid :laugh:

























Fernando


----------



## nuts&bolts

ferincr said:


> Hi Nuts&bolts,
> I made it (not as nice looking as yours) but I tried it and works fine.
> I had some welding rods to weld cast iron so I welded a piece of upside down L shape metal on the bottom of the clamp and works good enough.
> And yes I tried and re retried all the weld points pressing a solid piece of wood with a lot more pressure than needed for the bow before I tested with the actual bow so the weldings are ugly but solid :laugh:
> View attachment 2429866
> View attachment 2429874
> View attachment 2429882
> View attachment 2429890
> 
> Fernando


nicely done, Fernando. Looks like it will work very well.


----------



## ferincr

nuts&bolts said:


> nicely done, Fernando. Looks like it will work very well.


Thanks,
I just got your DVD next step is to see where I can scavenge a boat winch (or anything that'll serve the purpose) and build the draw board


----------



## Wolfey

Tagged


----------



## GrayTech

Nice clean build.
The problem with the sideways mounting suggestion like traditional linear press is that the clamp ends are not 90 degrees. Also any flex in the pipe or fingers causes the limb tips to be pressed unevenly. Ask me how I know this... I tried it and damaged a bow


----------



## crankn101

Has anyone made one with a longer acme rod so you can completely disassemble a bow?


----------



## bow hunter13

Great idea man.. Looks great I thought about building something like this but wasn't sure to build it, I have an idea way it's goin to look like now. So simple love it thanks


----------



## jim p

crankn101 said:


> Has anyone made one with a longer acme rod so you can completely disassemble a bow?


Back around page 15 of this thread I have some pictures of my press which can totally take a bow apart.

I use an irwin clamp and put a hole through the piece with the adjustment handle. I remove the handle and put on a socket so a rachet can be used. I put some small holes in the pipe so that a pin can be inserted to hold the clamp while the screw is being repositioned.

I have taken my bows apart several times using this press.


----------



## dawgdaddy71

this is great idea


----------



## Kennenhorton

tagged


----------



## ShiftyShaft

crankn101 said:


> Has anyone made one with a longer acme rod so you can completely disassemble a bow?


I made one like this one
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2167188&page=5

works great! I didn't do the fully adjusted fingers though just the static fingers like on this pipe clamp press. I think there is a link to the original design in that thread some where?


----------



## midview132

looks good


----------



## Lkettinger

Cant beat $20, ones ive looked at cost hundreds


----------



## iswandy

mine;

cut the plate to U shape
welded to both vice jaws
cut neoprene sheet to U shape and attached it to U steel plate using 3M double sided tape
cut the cable shrinking tube (yellow) to the length to cover those U fork

still got no time to paint welding joint area though :zip:










work like charm for string/cable tuning


----------



## Hoytdude90

Tagging for later!


----------



## iswandy

some detail picture










saw this posted by forum member in this thread (forgot which page), if this trick avoid my cam/wheel get direct contact with steel fork, why not?


----------



## Hoytdude90

I got lucky, cause I work somewhere with access to a $1,000,000 laser, So i just threw some measurements together and got them to cut out the fingers for me. I used several layers of the Plasti Dip rubber that is for re-coating pliers handles etc.. and it works perfectly!! Grips great, doesn't leave any marks or residue on the bow limbs, and pressed my Carbon Spyder like a breeze. I love the clean look that it gives as well. Terrible pics, i'll get up some better ones once i paint it and get it all pretty  Thanks for this awesome idea!


----------



## widnert

tagged


----------



## Ridgeback8

Very sharp. Nice job.


----------



## JDS-1

I made one of these when this thread first started and still use it, works great and it's portable. I used some rubber hose over my fingers and nothing slips. Be careful with that plastidip stuff it does slip after time and especially the rubber grip thing from the pliers. Looks good though


----------



## kerrye

I built this set-up a couple years ago and after finding the screw did not have enough travel to work well, I bought a longer piece of 5/8" acme thread rod and a couple of nuts to extend the travel.(the existing threads on the clamp will not work with conventional acme thread, thus the nuts were needed to do the job) I just cut out the inside threaded part of the clamp body and welded in a nut. Used everything else including the crank handle. You won't need 24" of thread to get the job done. I used 12" and that left about 11" of thread after I turned down the ends to fit the hardware (handle, etc.) and that has worked on everything I've used it on.


----------



## pitbullandbows

Love this thread...Tagging for later implementation...


----------



## caspian

GrayTech said:


> Also any flex in the pipe or fingers causes the limb tips to be pressed unevenly. Ask me how I know this... I tried it and damaged a bow


flex in the pipe is not an issue as it will be directly away from the axis of pressure between the fingers. you just need to press more.

if your fingers flex then that's a build, and not a design, issue.


----------



## jldunn86

bigiron said:


> Here is my completed version of the "20.00 bow press". I used 2x4 red oak for my fingers with rubber tape for the facing. It seems to work great on my Velocity which is only set @ 56lb.I do have abit more than 20 dollars in it as the 2ft 2x4 was 11.00 and the galv. pipe was arond 9.00. The manage att. thing is moving like tar in Jan. and failed 4 times to up the last pic. of my bow in the press.


There you go add some wider feet on the finger boards to stabilize it. Great work guys..


----------



## shoot2thrill25

So all the fingers I see on here are "U" shaped. Do you think he fingers have to be connected at the bottom? Had an idea for a no weld solution but wasn't sure if that would be necessary 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bergloch

Ttt


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## gregant

Tagged


----------



## spartacus001

Fantastic job. 
When I'm ready to change strings I'll be building one.
Instead of steel I'll fabricate it with some hardwood blocks like some of you have done. 
I googled this:


----------



## iswandy

Do take note not to use bulky forks, might having trouble to access string/cable end loop


----------



## raisins

shoot2thrill25 said:


> So all the fingers I see on here are "U" shaped. Do you think he fingers have to be connected at the bottom? Had an idea for a no weld solution but wasn't sure if that would be necessary
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have the same question. The pipe clamps I've found have jaw widths of 1.75 to 2". My bow split limbs are each 0.75" wide with a 1 inch gap between the limbs for the cam, so, I need 2.5".

My idea is to cut steel plate to a 3" width (keep height that of jaw) and bolt to the jaw faces and then make 0.5" fingers and bolt these to the steel plate, of course using multiple high strength bolts.

I don't weld and don't know anyone well enough that does.


----------



## mntbum

Well done sir.


----------



## malacootasmooty

Some great ideas here, thanks.


----------



## lep999

I like this


----------



## TrophyHuntFish

Amazing! Do they still sell this at HF?


----------



## TrophyHuntFish

Also, have you had any negative experiences with this? Things you could've improved on?


----------



## broadhead70

Thank you for the idea and the post.


----------



## ZuluWhiskeyFox

I built one like this. This one is not mine. Rather what I copied. I used Oak for the wood.


----------



## AzAthensArcher

Who builds and sells the metal fingers with extension tube for these?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## nuts&bolts

AzAthensArcher said:


> Who builds and sells the metal fingers with extension tube for these?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


DIY Pipe Clamp version for folks who do not have a welder. No extension tube required.





If you can work a screwdriver, and an electric drill, you can build this. The eyebolt prevents the backbone pipe from getting stuck. Oil the main backbone pipe with some silicone spray lubricant, and the pipe clamp press will work smoooooth as glass.


----------



## strandbowhunter

Not a engineering genius by any means but has anybody thought or has attached square tubing to the clamps making a regular linear style press. So the bow hangs down instead of working backwards. Just a thought.


----------



## Reverend

nuts&bolts said:


> DIY Pipe Clamp version for folks who do not have a welder. No extension tube required.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can work a screwdriver, and an electric drill, you can build this. The eyebolt prevents the backbone pipe from getting stuck. Oil the main backbone pipe with some silicone spray lubricant, and the pipe clamp press will work smoooooth as glass.



Hello Alan.
Will this press a new 2016 Hoyt?


----------



## nuts&bolts

Reverend said:


> Hello Alan.
> Will this press a new 2016 Hoyt?


No, I don't think so. Need the pivoting fingers, to always match the limb tip angle, and need a way to hang onto the riser, so the riser does not spit out of the press like a watermelon seed. Synunm has a new version in the works, for the new Hoyt past parallel limb tip bows.


----------



## nuts&bolts

strandbowhunter said:


> Not a engineering genius by any means but has anybody thought or has attached square tubing to the clamps making a regular linear style press. So the bow hangs down instead of working backwards. Just a thought.


For folks who cannot work on a bow "upside down".


----------



## Reverend

nuts&bolts said:


> Synunm has a new version in the works, for the new Hoyt past parallel limb tip bows.


That's great. Hopefully it's some sort of adapter or bracket that will work with their existing press...
Hate to cough up another $200 for another Synunm.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Reverend said:


> That's great. Hopefully it's some sort of adapter or bracket that will work with their existing press...
> Hate to cough up another $200 for another Synunm.


Yes, an adapter. I have seen the prototype. Told Synunm to get official Hoyt approval.


----------



## b0w_bender

nuts&bolts said:


> For folks who cannot work on a bow "upside down".


Honestly, I've always worked on my bows with the stabilizer pointing up and so this contraption looks upside down to me.


----------



## TRAINHD

I love it!  
I just built a press myself but I know I am going to build yours to keep with me in my truck.  
Thanks for posting the pictures


----------



## Presmak14

awesome idea. definitely going to start buying materials asap. thanks for the great idea. love the fact that i can have a bow press without having to spend a few hundred dollars


----------



## mottoman112

looks great!


----------



## ReleaseTheBeast

neat


----------



## Baraath

Hello all. I was wondering if you think this would work for a Mathews Halon bow?


----------



## tiredoldguy

When funds are short it is amazing what the brain can come up with. Neat!!!


----------



## ekedul311

What a great idea. I think I know what I will be doing this weekend !


----------



## gigahertz

nuts&bolts said:


> DIY Pipe Clamp version for folks who do not have a welder. No extension tube required.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can work a screwdriver, and an electric drill, you can build this. The eyebolt prevents the backbone pipe from getting stuck. Oil the main backbone pipe with some silicone spray lubricant, and the pipe clamp press will work smoooooth as glass.


I 'm going to build one just like yours, can you share the make and of the pipe clamps? 

I am having problems finding clamps that have the 4 mounting holes for the wood block fingers.

Thanks!


----------



## BagginBigguns

I've had a few requests for the wood dimensions, so I figured I'd just post up a sketch here. It's crude but gets the point across:


----------



## Alaska at heart

BagginBigguns said:


> I've had a few requests for the wood dimensions, so I figured I'd just post up a sketch here. It's crude but gets the point across:


What type of wood did you use? A buddy who is a machinist made a pipe clamp press for my Ross Cardiac single cam bow a few years ago, but my current Primes do not work with the fingers he made due to being dual cams with draw stops. It has been lying idle and I would love to get it functional to do some home work on my bows. Thanks for the sketch of your setup to use as a guide.......:thumbs_up


----------



## BagginBigguns

Alaska at heart said:


> What type of wood did you use? A buddy who is a machinist made a pipe clamp press for my Ross Cardiac single cam bow a few years ago, but my current Primes do not work with the fingers he made due to being dual cams with draw stops. It has been lying idle and I would love to get it functional to do some home work on my bows. Thanks for the sketch of your setup to use as a guide.......:thumbs_up


I made a 1.5" thick piece of oak out of two 3/4"thick pieces from home depot. I just glued them face to face with some wood glue. Seems plenty sturdy.


----------



## tmacXX75

I like it


----------



## agf25

Bravo, this is so simple and cheap love it. My only question is do you just let your bow stay in the clamp without any support/holder? Is there enough pressure to ensure a bump of the riser wont twist the bow?

Thanks!


----------



## shredder4286

There's people who have added a side bar or something to keep the bow from moving. I just hold onto the bow as im cranking down or letting up. Just don't go too hard and torque the riser.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


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## rian.kline.77

im going to build one of these . it looks good for sure .


----------



## jim p

The limb stops on most bows need to be removed before pressing. Make sure to put them back on before drawing the bow.

I have been using my pipe press for several years now. It is a great press for me.


----------



## bbell220

Nice


----------



## cedarmountain

nice!


----------



## e.419

Gave it a try and works like a charm, thanks guys!


----------



## nuts&bolts

e.419 said:


> Gave it a try and works like a charm, thanks guys!


Well done. Congrats.


----------



## NurseRob

Impressive ingenuity...


----------



## nuts&bolts

NurseRob said:


> Impressive ingenuity...


BagginBigguns original design.







There is a slot for the pillow blocks on the BowTech OverDrive system.


----------



## doczerothree

Agreed. Very nice!


----------



## omalley14

Ttt


----------



## jhedelen

Ttt

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


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## calebr

*Bow press variation for Mathews Halon*

Hi Guys, thanks for all the good ideas. I figured i'd share my own variation. I had my brother cut me some wood blocks out of some laminated structural header type material. (i figured it resists splitting). I purposely had him make them plenty big in all dimensions just so it would be extra solid. (also to resist rocking back when the pressure is on). I just purchased a Mathews Halon 6 and since these are beyond parallel, I was worried about the bow popping out upwards (yikes!) so i needed a way to "hook" in those aluminum blocks on the limb ends. I simply drilled and "screwed" in a 6mm allen head bolt about 60mm long into the blocks. Then i ground the heads in a round shape with a die grinder to mimic the shape of the blocks on the bow. Overall it works very well. Really no worries about the bow coming out of the blocks. The little bolts are about 2.5" into the wood so i don't think they are going anywhere. They are basically a press fit. I cut this out it so that the clamping force is both on the wood, and on the bolt heads just a little bit. It was very solid. I may screw some plywood "feet" on the bottom of the blocks for more stability on the workbench. What do you guys think? Ideas and constructive criticism are welcome


----------



## Perfect Harvest

Awesome thread. In!


----------



## Piratehawk

Wow I have 4 of those and never thought of using them as a press. Great job!


----------



## kdog23

BagginBigguns said:


> I made a 1.5" thick piece of oak out of two 3/4"thick pieces from home depot. I just glued them face to face with some wood glue. Seems plenty sturdy.


I did the same, has not failed me these past three years


----------



## adr1601

If anyone want to make one easy. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=4678569


----------



## Tidestar

What awesome thread. You guys killed it with ingenuity.


----------



## bclark7169

Very nice!!


----------



## double0lx

Made me one.... awesome!! Thanks for help ATers...











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OspreyZB

Sweet idea, thanks for posting!


----------



## desertbird

...


----------



## RyanH_C

tagging so I can build myself one!


----------



## OspreyZB

Tagged


----------



## j.conner

Very clever!


----------



## Mark S C

Great idea.


----------



## imthenewking

Great thread. Had my brother mill up some fingers for mine for $25









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## blakeman

So is anyone here making the metal fingers like in post #1186, they look well made. If someone is making them, what do they cost? 
Thanks


----------



## mathews3

This awesome! I'm going to have to make one just to do it


----------



## markb28

pretty sweet! thanks for sharing!


----------



## rocks66ss

Here are the fingers I made for my pipe press.


Rocky


----------



## Mwit

Great idea.


----------



## irishmen2008

Nice!


----------



## mw245

Very good idea. You could probably sell a lot of these.


----------



## RandomHero

Great Idea. tagged.


----------



## jiggles

Wow very nice. 

For a second there I thought it said $2000 press.


----------



## johnism

that will work


----------



## Jbray0714

Tagged


----------



## Racinray

I take it these presses will work on the Mathews Halo’s ? Gonna have to put one together looks great Lot of good info and reading on this thread! Ray


----------



## jt13

Tagged


----------



## Racinray

Have the original posters scketch and measurements for the fingers ,will this size work on Halons also. I don’t have a Halon to measure but going to bite bullet and pick up a 32 or Halon X. Looks like a fun build ..Thanks Ray


----------



## Racinray

Any close,up pics of the metal fingers pressing a Halon,showing how it positions on the fingers. Ray


----------



## tiredoldguy

So simple even I could take on this project. Thanks for the info.


----------



## HoodedKing

This is amazing. I love the size too. Easily capable of transportation.


----------



## Bill5520

Great idea, looks like I have a project for the weekend.


----------



## diverdwn8

I’ll be making one of these too


----------



## 1 2 NV

I'm not sure if I posted in this thread or not. I used a 2x4x8 cut in half, 2-3" hinges, a 4x4x6, 2-3/8 I bolts and a couple of 3/8 turnbuckles.
Presses my PSE bows fine.


----------



## israelluis001

Looks nice and portable 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Trcrow25

Best and easiest design I’ve seen yet. Great idea


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Homebrew454

Great idea. Going to make it!

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk


----------



## Je942010

Tagged


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Cupper

what is the best way to cut the metal? grinder with a cutting blade? how are you rounding it?

I want a frickin laser, man!


----------



## ChadBrailer

dumb question where did you get the fingers? maybe i missed in the section where you got them or made them Thanks


----------



## Kudla77

Nice! Looks professionally done! I'm talking about the photography :teeth:


----------



## Msoyring91

I wish I could build this!


----------



## chawk541

Love this idea I am going to make one this spring!


----------



## 3D Pinwheeler

tag


----------



## KyleD88

Interesting idea...


----------



## meatman

Definitely in!


----------



## 1 2 NV

I've said this before 4x4x6, 2x4x8 cut in two, 2 hinges, 6 screws, crank off Amazon, 2-3/8 tie downs, big bolt and some rope. Press and drawboard.


----------



## judge1029

love it going out to get the material


----------



## TCBowHunt

very cool


----------



## jeffgre_6163

double0lx said:


> Made me one.... awesome!! Thanks for help ATers...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This is very very similar to what I have made. I'm a cabinet maker/wood machinist so timber was the logical choice.
It works well and has enabled me to yoke tune my bow but I have a question

Do people typically have a problem getting the axles out of the cams to shim etc using this type of press?
I have a PSE Xpression that could do with a bit of work but I am reluctant to start without knowing if the axles will come out easily
Much prefer to do it myself than leave my $2000 [AUD] bow in the hands of the local so called "Pro" shop


----------



## nuts&bolts

jeffgre_6163 said:


> This is very very similar to what I have made. I'm a cabinet maker/wood machinist so timber was the logical choice.
> It works well and has enabled me to yoke tune my bow but I have a question
> 
> Do people typically have a problem getting the axles out of the cams to shim etc using this type of press?
> I have a PSE Xpression that could do with a bit of work but I am reluctant to start without knowing if the axles will come out easily
> Much prefer to do it myself than leave my $2000 [AUD] bow in the hands of the local so called "Pro" shop


On a linear fingertip bow press, each finger is angle adjustable. The idea is to tune the deflection pressure on each split limb, so the holes for the axle line up. If you build a wooden finger pipe clamp press, you may need to shim ONE of the fingers, to get the holes for the axle perfectly lined up. Use soda can aluminum for shim stock.


----------



## brandonjb

best press idea i have seen yet


----------



## jnoble2017

i know what i'm building this weekend. good work!


----------



## gamesticker

Tagged


----------



## Nutcase2be

I have one like this and they seem to work fine. Never had a problem with the clamp slipping, although I have thought about it.


----------



## artemisw

Great idea. Going to make one too


----------



## Deli

like it


----------



## Hsetraki

this!


----------



## Hsetraki

ditto


----------



## c407t16

this is probably the best diy bow press build ive ever seen


----------



## Purity02

wow thats genius


----------



## jmfields21

interesting


----------



## ViperACR

Well done


----------



## gwseabold2

Looks simple enough.


----------



## BowhuntNH

Love this idea - incredible


----------



## Jewell12

Looks good


----------



## Bobberdown

Wow thanks for posting this great idea now I can afford a bow press👍


----------



## ctinsley

sweet


----------



## fenton2005

I’ve found my weekend project!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## cbpull

VERY NICE!! Thank you for posting!


----------



## Mtc189

Awesome! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mikeallanclark

very nice, and the thread has 50 pages .. that pretty impressive in itself


----------



## BlackPot

Very clever. Love diy stuff. If you can pay a person to do it, you should be able to figure out how to do it.


----------



## Sebastianh

now thats awesome diy !


----------



## BBDHeli-m

Great idea. Going to Harbor Freight tomorrow


----------



## Hparmer

Nice


----------



## Montejello

Swanky little setup!


----------



## Jaybrooks

Nice


----------



## vtaflyer

Very late to this, but thanks!!!


----------



## 208Idaho

not bad for $20 bucks, stay safe


----------



## commandoNate

Damn, I've got a half a dozen of those pipe clamps out in the shed. One of em is going on the basement workbench ASAP. Right next to the Bitz and the reloading press!


----------



## A929ryda

Great work


----------



## Konfuze

Good idea


----------



## Maga52

Wow great idea. Simple and fast....

Enviado desde mi Moto G (4) mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Pholley526

That is awesome, nicely done


----------



## Airbornebear

Great idea! Thanks for sharing. &#55357;&#56397;


----------



## TT965

That'll work


----------



## Dougd1984

diy at its best 👍


----------



## Idahoan1

Very cool!


----------



## lancerileyuy

wow! you can market that thing!


----------



## Orygun

this is super cool. I am totally going to try my hand at making one.


----------



## keetonjw

Nice!


----------



## EtronX

Brilliant :thumbs_up:thumbs_up


----------



## brucen

Would aluminum plate work for the fingers or should they be made from iron or steel?


----------



## leoncrandall74

brucen said:


> Would aluminum plate work for the fingers or should they be made from iron or steel?


Steel

Sent from my SM-G532M using Tapatalk


----------



## carsdwl11

Another tool to build and put in the shop ! Great idea !!!


----------



## Dmac678

Really cool idea!


----------



## jag6510

i love this idea! simple and effective


----------



## timmyd2

nice


----------



## Peyton-11

good idea


----------



## FinestKind

Great idea! Ill do the same.


----------



## bj139

mikeallanclark said:


> very nice, and the thread has 50 pages .. that pretty impressive in itself


10 years long as well !!!


----------



## BlkLima17

Thanks for the info


----------



## Bowtechrealm

Great idea!!


----------



## RugerRedhawk

I'll just say that 9 years later and my press is still doing the job. Just pressed my new carbon icon the other night with it. Only thing is that the gap between the fingers is just a smidge wide for my liking with the really narrow limbs on the icon. It worked, but I might want to make some kind of adapter, or whole new fingers for this bow. Not sure yet. 

Link to my original post with pics: 

https://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=965870&page=20&p=1056795074#post1056795074


----------



## macj0hn

Pretty smart setup


----------



## Kmarks

Awesome job


----------



## EricTreb

Very effective


----------



## jcw740

Nice craftmanship dude!


----------



## kzz1king

Or maybe just a complete new one !





RugerRedhawk said:


> I'll just say that 9 years later and my press is still doing the job. Just pressed my new carbon icon the other night with it. Only thing is that the gap between the fingers is just a smidge wide for my liking with the really narrow limbs on the icon. It worked, but I might want to make some kind of adapter, or whole new fingers for this bow. Not sure yet.
> 
> Link to my original post with pics:
> 
> https://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=965870&page=20&p=1056795074#post1056795074


----------



## Girvin13

Harbor freight, here I come


----------



## notfilckr

I'm amazed at all the things being made with Harbor Freight items repurposed for archery.


----------



## coltd65

Tagged


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mitch_Repak

the press looks amazing and probably works great. the only thing i can see that might be an issue is some of the newer bows have parallel limbs or beyond parallel limbs this style of press could cause the bow to shoot out of the press. let me know if you have tested it with newer bows.

i know the 2016 and 2017 hoyts need an special attachment for the last chance press to accommodate for the past parallel limbs


----------



## bj139

Mitch_Repak said:


> the press looks amazing and probably works great. the only thing i can see that might be an issue is some of the newer bows have parallel limbs or beyond parallel limbs this style of press could cause the bow to shoot out of the press. let me know if you have tested it with newer bows.
> 
> i know the 2016 and 2017 hoyts need an special attachment for the last chance press to accommodate for the past parallel limbs


What do other presses do to work with this style xbow?


----------



## pocketsika

Does everything a $300 press does.


----------



## bj139

I just bought the stand up clamp at Harbor Freight yesterday. I just have to make fingers.


----------



## jim p

My bow is in the press as I type. It is getting a new set of threads.


----------



## southern.draw

:mg:


----------



## 1955

spartacus001 said:


> Fantastic job.
> When I'm ready to change strings I'll be building one.
> Instead of steel I'll fabricate it with some hardwood blocks like some of you have done.
> I googled this:
> View attachment 3827754


That’s cool. I was scrolling through this to see if anyone came up with something for the past parallel bows, like the newer Hoyt bows. And saw the pic of my press!!! 
I’ve got some ideas in my head, but I’ll bought some of the geniuses here might have already fabricated something.


----------



## Egessner

Nice press


----------



## Tinchor64

Great idea!!!!


----------



## jeffreyf

Wow!! That is quite a Clever Idea!!


----------



## Outdoors Matt

nice


----------



## John_hessell

This is an awesome idea!!! I have all these parts laying around in my garage collecting dust. Can’t wait to get home..


----------



## vijaykarthick

Love it


----------



## ickydawg

Gotta love ingenuity


----------



## CBSimco

Dang good idea


----------



## gdcpony

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/groz-48-t-bar-clamp

Any one tried this one yet? Not $20 but it looks to have enough travel for relaxing a bow. Might have to order it. Now how to do fingers when my tools are limited. The military moves me around too much to keep them up. I might have to check the hobby shop out.


----------



## yvedel65

Very nice.


----------



## Ed3116

Cool idea


----------



## bassindago

I made one and have been pressing my hoyt hyperforce. I've not had any problems pressing it. Now i just press it enough to relax the strings when i was adjusting the yolks. I made mine just like the original version with the metal fingers


----------



## Erion10x

good weekend project. thanks!


----------



## goofydragon

Tagged


----------



## Dbcustom

That is super cool


----------



## travis941

Nice job 

Sent from my LG-M327 using Archery Talk Forum


----------



## PDawg

Some impressive DIY work here.


----------



## cshelton575

super late but great idea


----------



## tcb247

where can i get the 2"x 1/4" steel with a 1" slot cut???????


----------



## JakeRV

nice idea


----------



## LB02

Well Done


----------



## Dendhep

That’s pretty awesome


----------



## nirv996

Nice idea


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AABryan

Wow. This is very impressive. Thank you for sharing.


----------



## celticsman44

I like it.


----------



## RyanMctit

sweet idea


----------



## bigmac2516

This press is cool bow press


----------



## Hpierce99

That's a great idea, love it


----------



## 340bull

Very simple design!


----------



## labyrinth888

that is a F**** hack !!!
good job ! ahahhahhahah


----------



## 222 REM

Bump


----------



## ericsincebaugh

I gotta give it to ya... Simple but it looks like it would work without a whole lot of improvement


----------



## ianb1116

Tag


----------



## Riverpkc

Nice


----------



## TSA

Good work, thx for the idea.


----------



## aspin_10

This is genius!!


----------



## Gene1

Wow as mention this is a long running thread. I just got back into archery 8 or 9 years later and purchased a used target bow. Pulled out this press I made back then and was able to press it to install thr peep. Lucky it’s not a past parallel limbs. I did start to welding a little, so I was thinking to make a linear press. But decided to make a string jig. This bow press does what I need already. I need new strings for my 10 year old Turbohawk. It still shoots nice but the cables has a broken strand.

Love these DIY threads and fellow archery willing to help others out.

A thanks to all!


----------



## Wenty

Just a FYI....

I built one of these years back, worked great for a while on bows like Hoyt. But when pressing highly loaded limbs, Bowtechs, it bound up under tension and wouldn't release without tapping the underside of the clamp backwards. And you probably shouldn't tap cast iron under tension... whistling!! LoL. 

Just words of warning. I wouldn't recommend this style "press".


----------



## COCJP

Thanks for this.


----------



## notoriousbog14

These homemade presses are cool to see. Keep it up guys and gals...


----------



## JoeT3

This is perfect. I'm sold on this one, and it's in my budget. :darkbeer:


----------



## dlb511

I think I need to make one!


----------



## ianb1116

I just made mine this weekend! Worked like a freaking charm. Restrung a Mathews ZXT without any issue.


----------



## ianb1116

ianb1116 said:


> I just made mine this weekend! Worked like a freaking charm. Restrung a Mathews ZXT without any issue.


As I can't edit my post, one thing I forgot to mention is that, in my case, the string had broken (not cable) and thus the limbs were too far relaxed to simply press and replace the bow string. What I did was press the bow as far as I could, take up slack in the cable and tape it to the riser. I then loosened the press completely, backing the screw drive all the way out, slid the clamp on the opposite side in to re-clamp the bow, and then repressed it. I had to do this twice before my limbs were close enough to spec to restring properly. Annoying? Yes. Did it work and only cost me ~$40 to make? Yup. I consider it a big win.


----------



## khlessy93

Wow, what cost effective problem solving man


----------



## khlessy93

Right!?


----------



## khlessy93

Its such a great idea!


----------



## 260rem

I made one just like the OP's. Works great and cheap too.


----------



## Eagle Archer

Very portable


----------



## Kms86

Impressive


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ShortMountain91

Nice

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## vectordawg

Very cool! I'm gonna give that a try. Thanks for sharing!


----------



## Riverb8

It would be awesome to make one of these.


----------



## Jslayer37

That's very cool , I have 0 handyman ability , but I might even be able to something like that . 
Thanks


----------



## kenpiet

Works well with my turbohawk.


----------



## Starke27

This is genius. I am definitely going to make one for adjusting the peep on my old bow that I am going to set up for my wife. Only question that I have is: is 3/4" bar clamp really necessary? 1/2" seems plenty strong and should hold well enough. I have some 1/2" pipe clamps lying around from woodworking but would definitely run and grab 3/4" if it is truly required.


----------



## strut22

Nice


----------



## archer 300

great idea... I may just have to use your idea.. thanks


----------



## etrips

Where would one get the steel plate with fingers?


----------



## dguns18

Nice!


----------



## raisins

Race59 said:


> Well, after doing a little thinking and a trip to Harbor Freight this is the result.
> 
> My objective was to come up with something cheap, easy, and effective that most anyone could build themselves.
> 
> The fingers are made of 2"x 1/4" steel with a 1" slot cut. I welded a 1 inch piece of pipe on the crank end because it works a little better with that modification, but isn't absolutely necessary. 1 inch pipe fits pretty dang well over ¾ inch pipe with very little fitting.
> 
> 3/8" vinyl tubing was used to cover the fingers and I used half inch ID radiator hose for stops.
> 
> I made a few other small modifications on the original clamp (just because that's the way I am), but they aren't necessary for function.
> 
> Hope some of you who are bow press challenged find this useful. For a simple and cheap contraption this works surprisingly well.


I tried this exact same thing a few years back *except I did not weld the tube to the finger on the moving end.* Because I don't weld.

Well, that was a mistake for me. It caused the screw end to get on a bind and it would not unscrew with my bow in it. I had to put a cheater pipe on it and really crank to get my bow out. It was very sketchy and I was afraid I was going to damage my bow.

I post this not to take away from your post (it is great work!) but as a word of caution to others about what is possible to occur.


----------



## rpolensky

Great idea. Nice job!


----------



## smkerr1

Great post, i've been looking for something like this!:RockOn:


----------



## T-Mar

Gene1 said:


> Wow as mention this is a long running thread. I just got back into archery 8 or 9 years later and purchased a used target bow. Pulled out this press I made back then and was able to press it to install thr peep. Lucky it’s not a past parallel limbs. I did start to welding a little, so I was thinking to make a linear press. But decided to make a string jig. This bow press does what I need already. I need new strings for my 10 year old Turbohawk. It still shoots nice but the cables has a broken strand.
> 
> Love these DIY threads and fellow archery willing to help others out.
> 
> A thanks to all!


I am going to have to try this, How thick is your wood (I get there's a joke here)? Is the wood screwed to the clamp? Is the top cut back on an angle?


----------



## Hercdriver

Definitely going to make one of these. Thanks for all the ideas everyone has pitched in.


----------



## Redjones

Looks like they have withstood the test of time,nice.

Greg


----------



## jraw228

Neat thanks for sharing


----------



## Gene1

Each side of the clamp has 2 pieces of solid wood adding up to about 1-1/2”. The tip of the wood was cut at angle to make a wedge shelf to prevent the bow from popping out. This is NOT for past Parallel limb. 

There are 4 bolt, nuts and washers bolted thru each clamp. You don’t want wood screws to pull out.


----------



## gmcmachz

nice unit


----------



## Jcsrookie

Gonna have to make one of these


----------



## BW321

Great Idea !!!


----------



## romadant

etrips said:


> Where would one get the steel plate with fingers?


Same question. Anyone know?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## redstorm24

looks good


----------



## adamsarchers

Just saved this to my favorites - I need to build one of these. Thank you for all the pictures. You did a very nice job - looks great!


----------



## DeerOnDeathRow

Nice


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## romadant

Looks like I’m off to harbor fright. Tired to wait for Lancaster to get the synunm back in stock but can’t keep waiting. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NYbowhunter80

This is a great idea!! Nice job!


----------



## dpbasler

This is genius!


----------



## mrobin30

Looks good


----------



## touchstone8787

Just built one of these to adjust my yoke. The 3/4" clamp at harbor freight was cast steel which made this project much easier. Welded the pipe to the moving clamp as an anti-bind. Welded the fingers to the clamp and doneso! In hindsight I would have spent much less time drilling and cutting the fingers and just used 4 1/2" strips for the fingers.


----------



## Kylehicks81

What did you use to make the "feet" or "Fingers"?

Love this idea


----------



## Fishbone821

I like it


----------



## rxit

sweet idea.


----------



## Dragon2019

Really GREAT Thread !

Thank you 😃👍🏻


----------



## Fec20

Race59 said:


> Well, after doing a little thinking and a trip to Harbor Freight this is the result.
> 
> My objective was to come up with something cheap, easy, and effective that most anyone could build themselves.
> 
> The fingers are made of 2"x 1/4" steel with a 1" slot cut. I welded a 1 inch piece of pipe on the crank end because it works a little better with that modification, but isn't absolutely necessary. 1 inch pipe fits pretty dang well over ¾ inch pipe with very little fitting.
> 
> 3/8" vinyl tubing was used to cover the fingers and I used half inch ID radiator hose for stops.
> 
> I made a few other small modifications on the original clamp (just because that's the way I am), but they aren't necessary for function.
> 
> Hope some of you who are bow press challenged find this useful. For a simple and cheap contraption this works surprisingly well.


nice and portable


----------



## Bgilpin

That’s an awesome idea!


----------



## flyhunter1

Great idea!


----------



## hdrewsky10

I like it! Anyone build a bow clamp? For working on a bench?


----------



## RL.Robertson

Saved your post, great idea. I think this is the route I'll take.


----------



## Rob_WTSB

Very cool Thanks for sharing


----------



## Emers7mm

Race59 said:


> *A few more photos*
> 
> A few more photos.


Nice


----------



## bowhunter-90

Simple yet effective. I like it.


----------



## wcoombe

Great idea, I will definitely be fabricating one of these.


----------



## Kentar

Race59 said:


> Well, after doing a little thinking and a trip to Harbor Freight this is the result.
> 
> My objective was to come up with something cheap, easy, and effective that most anyone could build themselves.
> 
> The fingers are made of 2"x 1/4" steel with a 1" slot cut. I welded a 1 inch piece of pipe on the crank end because it works a little better with that modification, but isn't absolutely necessary. 1 inch pipe fits pretty dang well over ¾ inch pipe with very little fitting.
> 
> 3/8" vinyl tubing was used to cover the fingers and I used half inch ID radiator hose for stops.
> 
> I made a few other small modifications on the original clamp (just because that's the way I am), but they aren't necessary for function.
> 
> Hope some of you who are bow press challenged find this useful. For a simple and cheap contraption this works surprisingly well.


Absolutely Brilliant! Well done!


----------



## M. Brown

Awesome idea! I need to save this.


----------



## Bhunterak

WOW what a great idea and you did a nice job on it


----------



## Bdallum

Awesome! I’ll have to do something like this


----------



## Gene1

Old thread but a good one. Built this press over 10 years ago to adjust the strings. Now got back into archery 2 years ago. I did build a full press last year to allow full break down of the bow, but I still use this press next to the new one when tuning the bow.


----------



## joshua.d.shaffer

I know I’m among hundreds that said the same thing but I’m going to built one of these! Excellent idea! Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dusty Britches

I'd like to thank the OP for the idea and whoever brought this up recently. Otherwise, I'd never seen it. Fantastic idea! After this many years, does it still work as intended?


----------



## chuotcon289

Great idea!


----------



## RyanBon

Smart idea, looks solid... I would trust it with my bow any day!


----------



## boy&hisdogs

I can't believe I didn't think of that! I have a bunch of those pipe clamps leaning up in the corner collecting dust!


----------



## vincentn1818

that's a solid build


----------



## Stoneface86

Fantastic idea Putting one together now. Thanks


----------



## Bowhunter556

Following


----------



## ChuckHann

Race59 said:


> Well, after doing a little thinking and a trip to Harbor Freight this is the result.
> 
> My objective was to come up with something cheap, easy, and effective that most anyone could build themselves.
> 
> The fingers are made of 2"x 1/4" steel with a 1" slot cut. I welded a 1 inch piece of pipe on the crank end because it works a little better with that modification, but isn't absolutely necessary. 1 inch pipe fits pretty dang well over ¾ inch pipe with very little fitting.
> 
> 3/8" vinyl tubing was used to cover the fingers and I used half inch ID radiator hose for stops.
> 
> I made a few other small modifications on the original clamp (just because that's the way I am), but they aren't necessary for function.
> 
> Hope some of you who are bow press challenged find this useful. For a simple and cheap contraption this works surprisingly well.


You have the mechanics down. Using a screw type machine to move an object under pressure. 
Now for the geometry lesson. I would not press on the limbs outboard of the axle holes in the limbs. 
At least not on my Hoyt. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## msplitt

Race59 said:


> Well, after doing a little thinking and a trip to Harbor Freight this is the result.
> 
> My objective was to come up with something cheap, easy, and effective that most anyone could build themselves.
> 
> The fingers are made of 2"x 1/4" steel with a 1" slot cut. I welded a 1 inch piece of pipe on the crank end because it works a little better with that modification, but isn't absolutely necessary. 1 inch pipe fits pretty dang well over ¾ inch pipe with very little fitting.
> 
> 3/8" vinyl tubing was used to cover the fingers and I used half inch ID radiator hose for stops.
> 
> I made a few other small modifications on the original clamp (just because that's the way I am), but they aren't necessary for function.
> 
> Hope some of you who are bow press challenged find this useful. For a simple and cheap contraption this works surprisingly well.


Do you ever have issues with it falling off balance??


----------



## Goosegrounder

Well done


----------



## Chase406

Race59 said:


> Well, after doing a little thinking and a trip to Harbor Freight this is the result.
> 
> My objective was to come up with something cheap, easy, and effective that most anyone could build themselves.
> 
> The fingers are made of 2"x 1/4" steel with a 1" slot cut. I welded a 1 inch piece of pipe on the crank end because it works a little better with that modification, but isn't absolutely necessary. 1 inch pipe fits pretty dang well over ¾ inch pipe with very little fitting.
> 
> 3/8" vinyl tubing was used to cover the fingers and I used half inch ID radiator hose for stops.
> 
> I made a few other small modifications on the original clamp (just because that's the way I am), but they aren't necessary for function.
> 
> Hope some of you who are bow press challenged find this useful. For a simple and cheap contraption this works surprisingly well.


These things are so handy


----------



## PDXVON

Good idea. Thanks for sharing


----------



## ColinMiller63

Man that looks so professional, well done my guy.


----------



## EddyD

This is the best diy bow press I've seen! You have a diy fletching jig this genius, too?


----------



## OutlawJim10

Seriously everyone here needs to be so dang intuitive with all these diy builds!!! I've got a ton of stuff to build now thanks to you and everyone!!! J/k!! haha definitely a great problem to have and I cant thank you and everyone to share these builds enough!!!


----------



## Steven_Tocci

Unreal. I need to make one myself!


----------



## Jet002

AfterLife said:


> portable? have a hard time carrying that log around to bolt it too
> 
> 😄 😄 😄
> 
> 
> 
> seriously, that is nice idea, how hard was it to drill and tap back into the clamps?
> are they cast parts?





Race59 said:


> Well, after doing a little thinking and a trip to Harbor Freight this is the result.
> 
> My objective was to come up with something cheap, easy, and effective that most anyone could build themselves.
> 
> The fingers are made of 2"x 1/4" steel with a 1" slot cut. I welded a 1 inch piece of pipe on the crank end because it works a little better with that modification, but isn't absolutely necessary. 1 inch pipe fits pretty dang well over ¾ inch pipe with very little fitting.
> 
> 3/8" vinyl tubing was used to cover the fingers and I used half inch ID radiator hose for stops.
> 
> I made a few other small modifications on the original clamp (just because that's the way I am), but they aren't necessary for function.
> 
> Hope some of you who are bow press challenged find this useful. For a simple and cheap contraption this works surprisingly well.


This is genius. Great idea. I am going to work on one this weekend.


----------



## Crowbo74

Great idea


----------



## bodoia

nycredneck said:


> Great idea, great execution, great workmanship, great price, whats not to like. Thank You for sharing. :thumbs_up:thumbs_up:thumbs_up





Race59 said:


> Well, after doing a little thinking and a trip to Harbor Freight this is the result.
> 
> My objective was to come up with something cheap, easy, and effective that most anyone could build themselves.
> 
> The fingers are made of 2"x 1/4" steel with a 1" slot cut. I welded a 1 inch piece of pipe on the crank end because it works a little better with that modification, but isn't absolutely necessary. 1 inch pipe fits pretty dang well over ¾ inch pipe with very little fitting.
> 
> 3/8" vinyl tubing was used to cover the fingers and I used half inch ID radiator hose for stops.
> 
> I made a few other small modifications on the original clamp (just because that's the way I am), but they aren't necessary for function.
> 
> Hope some of you who are bow press challenged find this useful. For a simple and cheap contraption this works surprisingly well.


Nice work and very effective. I did a similar setup using scrap plywood laminated together and it works great. Thanks for sharing.


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## Kozimoto

Interesting idea!


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## Huntthedollar

Looks good


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## Don't Move!!

This is great! Thanks for sharing!! I'm going to have to give it a try!!


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## kaeoaiwohidavis

This is pretty genius


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## Good Times

Terrific DIY thread. Inspiring, not ultra complex, high utility value.
I've deleted a few rows from my wife's honey-do list and substituted with this.


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## jamesgriff

thats a great idea!


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## jamesgriff

I wonder how you can add a draw board and or a stand to this and save the 600$ from other presses!


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## Juffman2142

That's pretty slick


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## njbaker85

That looks awesome!


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## Primeshooter67

Race59 said:


> Well, after doing a little thinking and a trip to Harbor Freight this is the result.
> 
> My objective was to come up with something cheap, easy, and effective that most anyone could build themselves.
> 
> The fingers are made of 2"x 1/4" steel with a 1" slot cut. I welded a 1 inch piece of pipe on the crank end because it works a little better with that modification, but isn't absolutely necessary. 1 inch pipe fits pretty dang well over ¾ inch pipe with very little fitting.
> 
> 3/8" vinyl tubing was used to cover the fingers and I used half inch ID radiator hose for stops.
> 
> I made a few other small modifications on the original clamp (just because that's the way I am), but they aren't necessary for function.
> 
> Hope some of you who are bow press challenged find this useful. For a simple and cheap contraption this works surprisingly well.


Pure genius! And I have another idea as well! Already ordered pipe vice with feet 11.99 Harbor freight! Perfect timing as well! This will work in a pinch till the lca shows up!


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## Raysharp

I have a place close that would laser or water jet me a set of those fingers. Ant way you could come up with a basic drawing/pattern? Great idea


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## eastfork

Awesome little press! Thanks for sharing!!


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## Moose00454

Now that's handy!


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## JoshKeller

Made one myself this style, except used a 2 x 4" piece of oak instead of metal for the fingers.


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## waterop

I have a question or two. 
I read some have put a bend in the metal and some did not. I’m not a metal expert so do you heat it while bending? Would this weaken it?
And if no bend would a weld bead across the top be of any benefit?

I was thinking that a metal fork behind the wood would be the best of both worlds. But as what I have read here ether will work fine.
Took 3 days to get to the end of this thread.lol


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## waterop

Found my answer


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## PatThom24

That's Awesome no need to spend $400 on a Bow Press


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## Gmpatrick1

Thanks for sharing! Great Idea!


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## waterop

A little side note: this thread was started in 2009 so the cost has gone up some. I made mine with wood and use Lows pipe clamp “pony” which are $20. So you can see the difference. But it didn’t matter to me because I like doing DIY stuff and enjoying the fact you built it yourself. And it works great!


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