# order of tuning operations, torque tune



## jaximus (Feb 23, 2015)

where does torque tuning fit into the order of tuning operations?

ive done the walk back tuning, the paper tuning, the broadhead tuning. ive robin hooded 3 arrows. i now shoot at 1/2" squares randomly spaced around my target so i dont bust knocks and ruin more arrows. 

Ive never torque tuned, but i do randomly get some horizontal fliers. its when i try too hard, get tired, or lazy. 

moving the rest forward or backward to torque tune would have to have some impact on the harmonics created by broadhead tuning? probably pretty close to the same for center-shot, but the vertical would have to change some? 

is this a back and forth thing? walk back tune for horizontal, paper for vertical, broadhead to make sure they agree, then torque to minimize the left right fliers, then paper again for vertical and double check again with paper then broadheads?

my main application is hunting. deer mainly, some turkeys. some work buddies like to do the video archery thing at the place in town, but thats just for fun. but im really competitive, so 'just for fun' really means i need to be the best. 

shooting paper, when i think about the pre shot routine, breathing, relaxing, floating the pin, loose grip im quite consistent. but when buck fever sets in and im up in the tree, i want to minimize my technique flaws on my equipment.


----------



## SAVIOUR68 (Apr 3, 2014)

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2425999&highlight=torque+tuning


----------



## jaximus (Feb 23, 2015)

yep read that thread, doesnt answer my question at all.

but to those interested, being that i enjoy tuning and am going to restring next week anyway, i went ahead and messed around with it to see what exactly it does to an already tuned bow.

my bow was in what i would call as close to perfect tune as i could humanly get it. bullet holes through paper and corresponding broadhead tune hitting the same holes as field points at every distance. 

not sure if i got lucky, or if this is how it would work for everyone, but after moving my rest back 7/16" to get it properly torque tuned, i did not have to readjust anything else. still shot bullet holes, still stacked broadheads/field points. 

im right handed and just a word of advice, when torquing the bow to the right (arrow toward string, stabilizer right of center) watch/listen/lipstick for string/fletching contact when you really torque it. the idea is to get the end of your stabilizer off of center by 1". i was testing to see how much added torque would change things. doesnt change it at all really, aside from adding contact, and its extremely unnatural and uncomfortable.

my left misses on left torque flew toward center upon moving the rest back until i was on my vertical line. my right misses varied based on my torque. i was having contact on my cables with higher amounts of torque. This made my right misses less predictable until i carefully controlled the torque to guarantee to contact. then right misses disappeared and everything on on the vertical line. 

torque tuning isnt easy. its hard on your mind. i had my vertical string on my target. i tried at first to just alter left right torque down the string so that i didnt repeat the torque. i wanted the twisted grip to be uncomfortable and awkward so that i wouldnt repeat it later. after i shot my 4 arrows, and walked to the target i couldnt remember which way i had turned the bow for each shot. so i went and put a piece of tape on each side of the string to keep track. your mind plays tricks on you. aiming at the string, thinking about twisting the bow, thinking about the tape, thinking about the bubble level, about the breathing, stay in the backwall, making sure you get some torque but not too much and getting the release without punching. all of this while fighting what we have worked so hard to condition your body to do, to not think, to relax and just do, to not squeeze the bow, to not think about the release. it was quite an experience.


----------



## SAVIOUR68 (Apr 3, 2014)

If you read the post on page 2 T .Morreli gave a run down on how he set up his bows in order of assembly and tuning. 
This my be done in many different ways by different people so your mileage may vary.
Glad you got it figured out.


----------



## ctownshooter (Jun 6, 2013)

Tagged


----------



## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

I would torque tune after you have everything else done. That way you already have your best arrow flight and then can make it more forgiving. Wouldn't make much sense to torque tune the bow before having all the other tuning done. Get your arrow flight and then torque tune.


----------



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Okay, there is only so much magic that one can draw from. Here's maybe a more clearer explanation of how to do it.
Jesse was answering questions on some site and I had to Snip his reply. I am of the opinion I want the clearest view through my scope and have it set so. So then it's moving the rest.


----------



## jaximus (Feb 23, 2015)

SAVIOUR68 said:


> If you read the post on page 2 T .Morreli gave a run down on how he set up his bows in order of assembly and tuning.


i think you accidentally provided the wrong link, but i might have found the one you meant? i think you meant this one?
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2201440

looks like he gives the run down, possibly in order, of how he goes about a bow set up. i already read that article and it was a broad overlay with some very good detail. i played around and found what i wanted.


----------



## jaximus (Feb 23, 2015)

Huntinsker said:


> I would torque tune after you have everything else done. That way you already have your best arrow flight and then can make it more forgiving.


thats what i ended up doing and it worked out fantastic. the rest moved back 7/16" of an inch and nothing else ended up moving. with that said, my nock point is horizontally level with my rest at full draw and there is very little(if any) vertical nock travel. 

with a bow that has some vertical nock travel this would not work the same. same thing if your nock point is higher/lower than the rest. moving the rest forward/backward would change the angle of the arrow and require an elevation change of the rest.


----------



## SAVIOUR68 (Apr 3, 2014)

Yes Jax my bad, that is what I was refering too.
I personally torque tune last also but that is just how I do it .


----------



## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

jaximus said:


> thats what i ended up doing and it worked out fantastic. the rest moved back 7/16" of an inch and nothing else ended up moving. with that said, my nock point is horizontally level with my rest at full draw and there is very little(if any) vertical nock travel.
> 
> with a bow that has some vertical nock travel this would not work the same. same thing if your nock point is higher/lower than the rest. moving the rest forward/backward would change the angle of the arrow and require an elevation change of the rest.


Good deal. Glad you got it figured out.


----------

