# Grip pressure issue



## 3Djax (Jul 25, 2016)

Here's a picture of my grip


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## EPLC (May 21, 2002)

3Djax said:


> I'm having a problem with torque caused by grip pressure on the left side of my grip (I am right handed). I get a large right tear when I shoot with a relaxed grip, but if I apply a little bit of pressure to the right side of the grip (thumb side) it makes a clean shot. So my relaxed grip is causing torque. Any suggestions? I'll also post this in the coaching section.


Sounds like you may have this issue backwards. Try tuning the bow to your relaxed grip instead of manipulating pressure on the bow to make a pretty hole.


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## Supermag1 (Jun 11, 2009)

From what i've read, Elites like a little more thumb side pressure or a deeper grip.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

EPLC said:


> Sounds like you may have this issue backwards. Try tuning the bow to your relaxed grip instead of manipulating pressure on the bow to make a pretty hole.


^^^ This.... Really can't a lot from the picture. ??? Riser grip to the inside of the thumb knuckle in the meaty part of the thumb? Almost looks like a mid grip. Bow elbow a bit hyper extended? This natural? 

When paper tuning do you have all stabs and weights on? You should.


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## duc (Jul 18, 2009)

Place a torque indicator on your bow ans see what it does. Shoot some groups at 50m with both "grips" and go from there. And I don't mean one or two. At least six groups of each. Keep score.


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

The minute I saw this thread I immediately thought the same thing that Eplc mentioned, You just need to tune the bow. From the picture which is not a overly good shooting form angle but it doesnt show any major form issue so to me. That bow is a non yoke bow so you yoke tune it by shimming the cams in the direction of the poor tear, this is the last step in the basic yoke tuning process and all the other setup parts need to be done first to make sure the bow is cam synced and draw length and valley setting with the draw stops and moving the d-loop to get rid of high or low tears. Once all that type stuff is done you finish off the tune by shimming the cams in the direction of the tear and clean up the tears.

Of course if your shooting form is outside of the acceptable amount of grip torque if you have some then you will have to work on your form but that is another story.


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## thawk (Mar 11, 2003)

Wow, I'm surprised by the answers, I figured I was going to get trashed when I said keep your grip and tune the bow to you rather then trying to change what's comfortable.
I know some who go as far as file the grip to work with how they hold, or add bondo to do the same thing.


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## subconsciously (Aug 22, 2009)

Just because something is comfortable does not mean it is right.


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## thawk (Mar 11, 2003)

Just because something is right doesn't mean its repeatable.

Line up Reo, Jessie, and Dave and tell each of them they are doing something " wrong" because someone else decided its "right"


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## 3Djax (Jul 25, 2016)

How much tear should I be comfortable with fixing by shimming the cams?


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## BobG88 (Mar 12, 2015)

Just a thought to consider: I’ve also encountered this situation with certain bows/grips, and found that no “reasonable" amount of tuning would work.

In my case, I began working to correct by confirming my stabilizer was perfectly in-line/perpendicular. I then drew an arrow, and observed where the arrow was pointing in relationship to my stabilizer.

Frankly I was shocked at how far out of whack the point was. Regardless of which “loose”, etc… grip-style I used, the point was angled to the far left at full draw (with resulting paper tear and bare-shaft left impact point).

Through experimentation, I learned to shoot those bows with “opposite” torque, which gave me perfect bullet holes, proper bare shaft impact points, and much more consistent shooting. 

[One exception was with an Elite Tour. Situation was as-described, until I added a “Torqueless” grip - problem solved]

I believe this is likely a more common problem than realized... 

Bob Gash
Lebanon, TN


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## duc (Jul 18, 2009)

As I said, don't worry about things until you see your groups. Your most comfortable and natural "grip" just may be the most repeatable.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

3Djax said:


> How much tear should I be comfortable with fixing by shimming the cams?


I'm going to ask; What arrow rest do you have? Where are you for suggested factory center shot?

I've never shimmed cams to get a great shooting bow. If a large paper tear I doubt shimming will do anything. I'd have some one watch to see what you're doing or not doing.
I still think your bow hand isn't quite right or more like a mid grip or trying to go to high grip, but then we are all different.


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## subconsciously (Aug 22, 2009)

thawk said:


> Just because something is right doesn't mean its repeatable.
> 
> Line up Reo, Jessie, and Dave and tell each of them they are doing something " wrong" because someone else decided its "right"


Well if it is not repeatable it ain't right to begin with. Duh.


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## thawk (Mar 11, 2003)

subconsciously said:


> Well if it is not repeatable it ain't right to begin with. Duh.


You're just full of helpful information aren't you

The OP stated that "his" relaxed grip causes a tear, to fix the tear he has to purposely torque the bow. It could be a problem with the bow and it could be his grip. All I'm saying is if it is caused by his grip, he should tune the bow to his grip, not the other way around.


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## hrtlnd164 (Mar 22, 2008)

I would like to see a side view of the grip, it does seem like you are shooting it with a mid wrist grip/ pressure more in the web instead of a low grip/ pressure more in the thumb pad. Could just be the pic.. I agree, tune the bow to you if possible. You would be amazed at how much .010-.020" of shimming will do.


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## subconsciously (Aug 22, 2009)

thawk said:


> You're just full of helpful information aren't you
> 
> The OP stated that "his" relaxed grip causes a tear, to fix the tear he has to purposely torque the bow. It could be a problem with the bow and it could be his grip. All I'm saying is if it is caused by his grip, he should tune the bow to his grip, not the other way around.


Actually I am. 

thanks


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## 3Djax (Jul 25, 2016)

I'll get a picture up of my grip shortly. I would say that my grip isn't very high, but definitely closer to a high grip than a low one, but like I said I'll let y'all see. On my pse, I completely yoke tuned out the tear to a bullet hole, but the amount of cam lean in it was more than I was comfortable with. As for my rest, it is a spot Hogg edge micro adjust. I don't really have the resources to try out a lot of different bows, but my issue seems pretty consistent across the bows that I have shot.


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## 3Djax (Jul 25, 2016)

Pictures of my grip


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## slimgravy (Mar 27, 2016)

I had a grip issue and couldn't tell what was going on till I took this shot.




It's was giving me this.




I'm all good now. Most of the correction came from anchor point. I couldn't touch nose with kisser. Took it off and once I got nose on string, it fixed it all and groups were really tight.


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## thawk (Mar 11, 2003)

Same results with and without the tape?

If you want to try something besides trying to tune it out I have had people do this and it worked for them.
Remove the tennis racket tape
Get some plastic type grip tape
Cut a strip about a 1/4 wide the length of your grip and stick it to the right side of your bow grip
Replace the tennis racket tape and try that
If it helps but not completely try two layers, first one about 1/2" wide then the 1/4 wide on top


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

And then proof is in the shooting, not paper tears....


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## duc (Jul 18, 2009)

SonnyThomas said:


> And then proof is in the shooting, not paper tears....


Very much so.


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## Rick! (Aug 10, 2008)

Just google "levi morgan elite" and you get this:

grip pressure thread And it's in general archery, like where this thread could get more responses by Elite shooters.

Levi's thumb wraps all the way around to the front of the grip to shoot his Elite good. 

You have sort of a hitchhiker's thumb and it's gapped away from the riser - you might try thawk's remedy but maybe use thicker tape as there's a bunch of space to fill.

(Get ready for an ugly mitt pic from Sonny in 3....2....1....)

I change my grip to what the bow tells me it wants and what my coach suggests. It's not huge changes, just subtle ones. 

If two completely different bows give the same imperfect arrow flight, I'd be looking at me and not the bow. 

Like duc says, what do your groups tell you?


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## EPLC (May 21, 2002)

slimgravy said:


> I had a grip issue and couldn't tell what was going on till I took this shot.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Not seeing what this picture identified?


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## 3Djax (Jul 25, 2016)

Honestly the bow groups fine. I can still usually manage a 14-16 up 3D round, I iust feel like if the arrow is leaving the bow that way, I am not getting everything out of it that I could be getting. I will try a wider grip as suggested to try and even out the grip pressure.


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## 3Djax (Jul 25, 2016)

I pulled all of the tape off and shot it off of the stock grip (which I think is uncomfortable) and it shot very clean through paper. The v grip shape of it I assume took pressure off of the left side of my grip, so it evened out with the pressure applied by my thumb side. Maybe I need a v grip on my bows. I had this grip issue wit the pse and Pearson that I shot, but I thought the grips were comfortable, so I tried to imitate that by taping up the grip on this elite.


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## duc (Jul 18, 2009)

Groups were fine so you decided to torment yourself with change for zero gain. That makes sense.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

3Djax said:


> I pulled all of the tape off and shot it off of the stock grip (which I think is uncomfortable) and it shot very clean through paper. The v grip shape of it I assume took pressure off of the left side of my grip, so it evened out with the pressure applied by my thumb side. Maybe I need a v grip on my bows. I had this grip issue wit the pse and Pearson that I shot, but I thought the grips were comfortable, so I tried to imitate that by taping up the grip on this elite.


Not sure of your bow, but if grip panels, many of us remove grip panels and shoot right off the bare riser grip. Personally, I don't like grip tape or anything that won't allow my hand or me to "adapt."


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

EPLC said:


> Not seeing what this picture identified?


Neither did I. For what I see I personally don't care for. I don't like the thumb and index finger sort of clinching. "Touch" maybe if not against the riser grip. Tucked fingers is okay, but not against the side of the riser grip.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

duc said:


> Groups were fine so you decided to torment yourself with change for zero gain. That makes sense.


If I was getting rotten paper tears I'd go "searching." I've been working with some S3DA kids of late and their grip of riser gets me wound up. I watch them shoot up close in my garage, mostly paper tuning. I see their hand not correct I stop them and show them. Even show them (them shooting) how much it effects paper tears. The index finger touching the front of the rise is another problem area. "Touch" means touch, not apply pressure. I have them get rid of the index finger, period. I instruct so and if they do it after I growl, yep, growl. Once out of the "garage state" and on the practice range I'm right there to make sure they are gripping the bow correctly. A couple of the Team Leaders and parents have reported back and gave of their kids shooting far better than before.


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## thawk (Mar 11, 2003)

duc said:


> Groups were fine so you decided to torment yourself with change for zero gain. That makes sense.


It groups fine and he scores well with it but as he said in post 41 it might get better, nothing wrong with trying new things during the off season.
Are you saying you have never tried a new release, arrows, bow, or setup when what you had was grouping good?


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## slimgravy (Mar 27, 2016)

EPLC said:


> slimgravy said:
> 
> 
> > I had a grip issue and couldn't tell what was going on till I took this shot.
> ...



If you look at the angle of the arrow shaft, it pointed (my) left.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

So is your sight pin. So?


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## EPLC (May 21, 2002)

slimgravy said:


> If you look at the angle of the arrow shaft, it pointed (my) left.


I believe if you lined up the camera to the arrow you would see this in a whole different light. There is nothing wrong from what I see in this picture besides camera angle. The only thing I can assume from this is people in general love to chase their tails... People would be so much better off working on their hold rather worrying about things that won't improve their actual performance... such as arrow flight. Draw length, backend feel, range of motion/hold... these things can improve scores, tuning... not so much. I know this may be reopening a can of worms but I just had to say it.


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## josh1974 (May 25, 2014)

EPLC said:


> I believe if you lined up the camera to the arrow you would see this in a whole different light. There is nothing wrong from what I see in this picture besides camera angle. The only thing I can assume from this is people in general love to chase their tails... People would be so much better off working on their hold rather worrying about things that won't improve their actual performance... such as arrow flight. Draw length, backend feel, range of motion/hold... these things can improve scores, tuning... not so much. I know this may be reopening a can of worms but I just had to say it.


I have to 100% agree with EPLC...I have been my own worst enemy. Get my bow shooting great, then the wheels start turning. I think I can get it shooting a little better.....NOT! I usually end up starting over, when I should have just let it be. I don't paper tune anymore! I shoot at 12 rings.


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