# Shooting off the shelf vs. using a rest?



## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

You can shoot vanes off a rest, generally they don't work so well off the shelf.

Otherwise it really depends on what sort of rest you've got. Some are pretty much like shooting off the shelf, others a extremely adjustable which can make tuning very easy.

-Grant


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## gnome (Oct 22, 2006)

For me, it really depends on which bow I'm using , as in is it cut to center, is it threaded for a plunger, is it a flat shelf or crowned , how long is the bow....ect.
If it is threaded for a plunger , a rest is always the best way to go. Some of the stick on rests may put the arrow out to far if not cut to center. I have also found the really short bows (48" to 56" such as a super mag, wing thunderbird, or cheyenne) shoot much better off the shelf than with a rest, whereas the longer ones (64" +) seem to like a rest. 
Feathers are always preferred and can be used on any type of setup, shelf or rest , vanes on the other hand can only be used from a rest with enough clearance so there is zero contact with the riser , they are very unforgiving. Do you already have a bow?


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## j.conner (Nov 12, 2009)

Vanes are more durable and feathers are forgiving of bow contact. You will want to shoot feathers off the shelf but probably vanes off a rest (but feathers OK there too). If shooting feathers, learn how to fletch as you will be replacing more frequently. Vanes can last quite a while.

Shooting off the shelf is simpler but less adjustable and harder to tune (more finicky about arrows). Shooting a rest and plunger is more forgiving and lets you tune the bow to the arrow to a greater extent. If no plunger, using a rest improves fletching clearance. I generally suggest using a rest unless they bow is specifically designed for off the shelf, like a longbow.


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## Bill 2311 (Jun 24, 2005)

I shoot only feathers, recurve or compound. A torn or damaged feather will still stabilize and arrow. Not so with vanes. Feahters will also collapse but the rigidity of the vanes will cause them to hop if there is any contact with the riser/rest. 
So far as shooting off of the shelf, I have a TradTech metal riser and I shoot off of a piece of furniture pad for both rung and plate. The bow comes with a threaded rest hole in the riser, but I prefer to have the arrow as low to my hand as possible. The center of the bow is usually at the deepest part of the grip. The elevated rest raises it even higher than with shooting from the shelf, especially if shooting three under. 
The elevated rest is more adjustable and with a flipper, it will give you better clearance. I just prefer to tune for the shelf. I only know one guy that shoots an elevated rest and he does so because the shelf is thin on his bow and the fletching rides across the top f his hand as it grips the bow.
Try the shelf and if you cannot get an arrow to fly, you can always go to an elevated rest.


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

Curtis S. said:


> Hello all! Completely new to this particular forum in archerytalk as well as traditional archery in general so i apologize if this post is in the wrong place.


Welcome to the forum. You're definitely in the right place :thumbs_up :wink:



Curtis S. said:


> [1] What are the pros and cons to using a rest vs. shooting off the shelf.


A rest and cushion plunger can be more forgiving of minor shooting errors when compared to shooting off the shelf and also allows an archer to use plastic vanes more easily.

Shooting off the shelf can make it easier to have and keep the arrow positioned correctly while stalking an animal or when nocking the arrow and making a quick shot or multiple shots. It also places the arrow closer to the hand which can make it easier for an archer to learn how to aim Instinctively.



Curtis S. said:


> [2] im fairly certain to the answer for this one, but plastic vanes vs. feather vanes and why? (I've always been curious about the difference in the vanes).


Vanes are waterproof making them better suited for hunting in wet conditions. Feathers can be more forgiving when shot off the shelf.

Ray :shade:


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## Azzurri (Mar 10, 2014)

I use feathers indoors and off the shelf on my trad bow. Vanes are better outside at distance, I use carbons with vanes for outdoor target. Vanes are durable right up to when you cut one, then it gets bad. But then I tear up feathers too so I buy more than I need, and pick what I use for an arrow according to what feels right for down and distance.

Lot of compound shooters and hunters seem to use vanes but until you get out to about 50 yds I don't think you have to. Out past that a heavy feather arrow with aluminum manufacture does drop quicker.


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## mobertoky (Mar 31, 2012)

I am no expert but I like shooting off the shelf because of the simplicity, durability and feels more traditional.


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## Curtis S. (Mar 1, 2010)

Thanks for the replies everyone. to answer some of the questions yall have asked. Yes i do already have a bow. im currently using a samick sage 62" 40#. its a very nice bow just wanting to get it fixed up with the proper equipment before i get serious with it. really the only items im looking at as far as accessories go are some of those vibration dampeners you put in the strings, a brass nocking ring, and a rest of some kind. im currently shooting off the shelf and have a striker pad on the side of the riser and a piece of some type of cloth on the shelf. although the striker pad has performed well, im not pleased at all with the cloth on the shelf. it tore up after really no more than 20-30 shots. thought a rest might be better or at least last longer. 

other than that i just need to some proper arrows and practice with it. after reading through the posts, i believe i am going to stick with using vanes.
1) Do most people use the short vanes or long vanes with recurve bows? (ill probably be using a elevated rest of some type. still deciding on whether or not to use a plunger)
2) Since mentioning the plunger, what are the advantages\reasons to use one as opposed to just using the adhesive on the rest itself?"
3) (OPTIONAL: Since i will probably get them regardless to what reviews say.) For arrows i am currently looking at the gold tips on 3 Rivers Archery's website. I shoot Gold Tip with my compound and am convinced to never go back, however how are they when it comes to traditional arrows?


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## Azzurri (Mar 10, 2014)

A bear hair rest would cost like about $5, can be self installed easily -- I did mine from internet videos -- and should be durable. If you want to stay off a shelf. Take off the old one, clean up the space, and install something else.

I personally prefer off a rest, but then I started out OR first. But my trad bow is shelf.


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

Curtis, hello. 

First time out, simple is good. 

A simple, inexpensive elevated rest - used by itself without a plunger (like the Bear Weather or Hoyt Super) - is perfectly effective and is used by countless archers. Stick it on and shoot. If you need to adjust (tune) its thickness towards or away from the riser, you can add adhesive layers to push it out, or strip the adhesive and use a contact cement to glue it inwards as far as it will go.

Feathers make for the least interference issues passing the riser, especially if the tuning or technique is not spot-on yet. They "give" when they need to, and allow one factor of potential interference to be eliminated.

Feather length is personal taste based upon experience or flight observation in specific situations. 4" or 5" will give great steerage and get the job done nicely. After the learning curve passes you can experiment to suit your needs.

Be sure to take competent advice on matching your shaft's spine and point weight to your bow's draw weight, no matter what brand or material you go with. You might not nail a perfectly exact spine down until later, but you will get good arrow flight with a closely-matched shaft. A good trad dealer that speaks "recurve" should be able to match you up, as well as a consensus of recommendations from the forum folk here. A compound dealer may not comprehend the nature of matching spine to recurve, and often will over-spine the archer because they only stock compound spines (IOW, they sell what they've got, rather than what you need).

Great book for self-teaching: Camera's "Shooting the Stickbow". Twenty dollars, 400 pages, everything covered from ground-up. 

Good luck.


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## Curtis S. (Mar 1, 2010)

Thanks everybody for the input. i believe i should be able to take it from here.


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## Joe Hohmann (Oct 24, 2013)

I'm trying to keep things simple. When I got my vintage 30# recurve last Oct., I brought it to a archery shop/training place and asked to be set up. They put a plastic Hoyt Hunter rest on it, and sold me 6 Beman ICS Hunter Jr. arrows (these carbon/vane arrows are for bows under 40#). This seem to be working fine for me. The arrows now have a bit over 700 launches each. I'm trying not to get into add-on gizmos. If my progress no longer continues to improve, I'll sign up for lessions.


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## j.conner (Nov 12, 2009)

That sounds like a good way to go, Joe. You got some good guidance at that shop, IMHO.


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## Curve1 (Nov 25, 2009)

I've shot off the shelf some back years ago. Both have their advantages. Like stated above, a rest offers more tunability.
For hunting, I prefer off the shelf. If I were to hunt with a rest I would make sure it's not going to fall off like some of the stick-on types have done for me. Or, if it is a stick-on rest I would add some type of glue to lessen the chance of it coming off...also, carry an extra rest with you in the field.


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