# Tru Spot lens



## IGluIt4U (Sep 22, 2004)

Just curious.. what are you guys using in a true spot lens?

Just got my first, and chose a 6x .25" spot.. thinkin I'd have been better off with a .375.. but... :lol: I'm gettin used to it tho... :wink:


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

6X 1/4" on Vegas face

6x 3/8" on NFAA


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## Hoytarcher (Nov 4, 2002)

Are either of you using a clarifier and if so what one?


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

Hoytarcher said:


> Are either of you using a clarifier and if so what one?


# 1


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## IGluIt4U (Sep 22, 2004)

I use a #1 for a 4X and a #2 for the 6x lenses.

Course... I'm ancient.. :embara: :lol:


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

IGluIt4U said:


> I use a #1 for a 4X and a #2 for the 6x lenses.
> 
> Course... I'm ancient.. :embara: :lol:


I'm just far sighted...:wink:


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## Shrek XT3000 (Apr 19, 2005)

I been using a 6x - 3/8" dia. It's been great for both indoors and out this past year

Jeff


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## jcmorgan31 (Nov 9, 2005)

I had a 6X 3/8" grind that I really liked. I dropped it and broke it and bought a 6X 1/4" grind. I don't like it as much , but it is still the best lens for indoor spots that I have ever used.

I use a # 2 clarifier and I'm not ancient......:wink:


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## IGluIt4U (Sep 22, 2004)

Yea, I've been practicing with it on a blue face, and it works fine for that.. but I'm thinkin it's too small for field... we'll see.. I'll shoot it indoors this winter...got a while before the next field shoot.... :wink:


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## blondstar (Aug 15, 2006)

using 1/4 8x with a #3 red mark claif. First season using this lens, have to get used to it. Lighting I found can be a factor.


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## GATOR-EYE (Jun 30, 2006)

I ve taken a sticker tape and made a thick circle with a 1/4 inch hole in the middle and stuck it to the lense to try this out without actually buying a lense.... wasn't for me.


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

GATOR-EYE said:


> I ve taken a sticker tape and made a thick circle with a 1/4 inch hole in the middle and stuck it to the lense to try this out without actually buying a lense.... wasn't for me.


That isn't a fair comparision... The principle is totally different..


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## GATOR-EYE (Jun 30, 2006)

JAVI said:


> That isn't a fair comparision... The principle is totally different..


What isn't fair about the comparsion?? Your looking through a 1/4 hole and centering the X with no aid from a pin. Right??
I like the idea of no pin to fight with,but with the circle I was looking through it seemed to bring out the movement in my scope and instead of looking at the X I was fighting the outer ring alighment of the scope lense which caused me to move all the more.


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## IGluIt4U (Sep 22, 2004)

GATOR-EYE said:


> What isn't fair about the comparsion?? Your looking through a 1/4 hole and centering the X with no aid from a pin. Right??
> I like the idea of no pin to fight with,but with the circle I was looking through it seemed to bring out the movement in my scope and instead of looking at the X I was fighting the outer ring alighment of the scope lense which caused me to move all the more.


No.. not really... you have a 1/4" focused center and the rest is out of focus, so you are forced to use only the center grind area and tend to ignore the rest of the lens... you just center the X in the small magnified circle and all else just fades away.... :wink:

I've shot a plain lens with a circle, it ain't nowhere near the same... :nono:


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

GATOR-EYE said:


> What isn't fair about the comparsion?? Your looking through a 1/4 hole and centering the X with no aid from a pin. Right??
> I like the idea of no pin to fight with,but with the circle I was looking through it seemed to bring out the movement in my scope and instead of looking at the X I was fighting the outer ring alighment of the scope lense which caused me to move all the more.


That is exactly why the comparision isn't valid. The true spot is a small circle of magnification in a clear lens, not a small circle of opaque or colored tape. You can see the entire target and only when you are centered is the target spot magnified.

Also I would never recommend a student of mine begin with a 1/4" grind and 6 power..


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## jcmorgan31 (Nov 9, 2005)

JAVI said:


> That is exactly why the comparision isn't valid. The true spot is a small circle of magnification in a clear lens, not a small circle of opaque or colored tape. You can see the entire target and only when you are centered is the target spot magnified.
> 
> Also I would never recommend a student of mine begin with a 1/4" grind and 6 power..



I'm not sure what the difference is exactly, but my 6X 1/4" grind seems harder to use then my 6x 3/8" grind one did. Without both to look through at once, I can't put my finger on the difference.....

Can you explain the science of this to a southern Indiana hillbilly?:wink:


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

Easy... The larger the area of maginfication the easier it is for you to NOT fight to keep everything centered... The principal of the TrueSpot is to allow the mind to center the target... just focus on the center of the X and let your brain do the work..


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## field14 (May 21, 2002)

JAVI said:


> Easy... The larger the area of maginfication the easier it is for you to NOT fight to keep everything centered... The principal of the TrueSpot is to allow the mind to center the target... just focus on the center of the X and let your brain do the work..


I agree with this...IF, and it is a BIG IF...you just let your EYES do the work...your bow will just come to center; but heaven help you if you TRY TO HOLD THE THING STILL by using anything else.

I'm shooting pretty low scores right now...however...that doesn't matter...what does matter is that if you are STARING AT THE X...and FOCUSING ONLY ON THE X....that is where the arrow is going to end up.

When I was shooting really well.....there were lots of times I couldn't have told you where the dot in the scope was sitting...but I KNEW that it was going to be an X anyways...cuz all my focus was ON THE X...and the eyes, the bow, and the release explosion happened all by themselves, and things were static enough that even at 65 yards I could watch the arrow dive into the target thru the scope...what a great feeling it is.

Now, KNOWING this and DOING THIS...well, that is what PRACTICE is for.

With the true spot, or with any scope...if you are focusing on MOVEMENT (since the SITE is moving), then you are NOT focusing on the stationary object...the X you are trying to hit....

I've found that as long as I can see the X in the "grind" when the shot goes...that is where the arrow is going to be....but heaven help me if I try to FORCE THE GRING to hold still....things come apart very quickly...and a MISS ALWAYS RESULTS from this bad thing.

It is NOT impossible...just have to take the time to LEARN IT by practicing and not expecting IMMEDIATE results...it takes a "new discipline" that if your "focus" goes to the grind or your release, or your bow arm to try to steady down...STOP THE SHOT, let down, and start over...

IT IS EASY IF YOU LET THE EYES DO THE WORK and TRUST THE SHOT.....if you don't do those two things...,it can be pure H**L to shoot with the truespot or anyother "grind" type lens.

field14


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## GATOR-EYE (Jun 30, 2006)

Field are you using a DOT on your true spot also??


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## jcmorgan31 (Nov 9, 2005)

It is amazing to me that I can freeze below the X with a tru spot like I do with a pin or dot. It makes absolutely no sense whatsoever and I know it is all mental.

I didn't seem to do this with the 3/8" grind but I'm back to fighting it with the 1/4" grind. 

I always blamed my "freezing" below the X with a pin or dot on my brain not wanting to cover the X. Now I'm not sure what to blame it on...... I guess my brain is afraid to see the X at all......


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

GATOR-EYE said:


> Field are you using a DOT on your true spot also??


Tom may but I don't I look at the spot I want to hit...


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## swampfox (Mar 30, 2003)

*1/4 or 3/8*

I have a 6x tru-spot. How can I tell if it is a 1/4 or 3/8 grind?


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## jcmorgan31 (Nov 9, 2005)

measure the magnified part.


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## Bob_Looney (Nov 17, 2003)

I have a 6x 3/8 I would think a 1/4 would be way small.


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## jcmorgan31 (Nov 9, 2005)

Bob_Looney said:


> I have a 6x 3/8 I would think a 1/4 would be way small.


We should trade and you can decide for yourself................... :wink:


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## AT_X_HUNTER (Aug 10, 2005)

6X-3/8 for everything. I get a good sight picture on indoor, field, and FITA.


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## field14 (May 21, 2002)

GATOR-EYE said:


> Field are you using a DOT on your true spot also??


No, I"m sure not using a dot in the truespot lens with the "GRIND" in it...but TrueSpot also makes PLAIN LENSES and lenses with holes for FibreOptics too...

I have all 3 types. on the plain lenses or the one with the hole in it for fiber optics, I use custom made dots OR custom made circles...both of which I make to the sizes I need....and then change them until I find the one that is working the best FOR ME under the circumstance...DIFFERENT size dot for INDOORS vs. OUTDOORS...again, "for ME." Someone else MIGHT get away with the same size dot for both...but it has NEVER worked that way for me. That is why I started making my own.

FOR ME...the 1/4" grind, regardless of power is simply asking too much...I have one...with 6X 1/4" grind, but only can shoot with it on a "steady, rock solid day" of which I have way too few of.

I, too, tend to freeze in the bottom of the bullseye with the 1/4" grind and look over the top edge of it...dunno why...

field14


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## jcmorgan31 (Nov 9, 2005)

I think I need to get another 3/8" grind........I thought it was just me and my problems with the 1/4"...:embara:




field14 said:


> No, I"m sure not using a dot in the truespot lens with the "GRIND" in it...but TrueSpot also makes PLAIN LENSES and lenses with holes for FibreOptics too...
> 
> I have all 3 types. on the plain lenses or the one with the hole in it for fiber optics, I use custom made dots OR custom made circles...both of which I make to the sizes I need....and then change them until I find the one that is working the best FOR ME under the circumstance...DIFFERENT size dot for INDOORS vs. OUTDOORS...again, "for ME." Someone else MIGHT get away with the same size dot for both...but it has NEVER worked that way for me. That is why I started making my own.
> 
> ...


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## x-ring (Jul 5, 2002)

Indoors I use a 8x 3/8" grind.

Outdoors 4x 1/4" grind.


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## highdeehoo (Apr 10, 2005)

*Love my TruSpot lens*

I shoot 8x 1/4 grind for all spots. All I see is X baby. When I shot Redding last year for the first time with it I was VERY happy with it.Nothing but orange on Bigfoot. At first it is allot of power, but I figured out the stab I needed to make it work. I shoot a 40" Quadra Flex with a 27 degree down angle and side bars that are 12".It took allot of trial and error to figure the combination that worked for me. I don't think you can go wrong with a TruSpot Lens!


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## Bob_Looney (Nov 17, 2003)

just switched out my 6x with a ring for my 6x 3/8 tru spot last night. Shot some 40cm @20 and 80cm @ 60.
3/32" #1 clarifier

Aahh. :cocktail:


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## blondstar (Aug 15, 2006)

*8x3/8"*

I use the true-spot housing, with an 8X, 3/8" grind. With a #3 clarifier, with the next to the smallest hole, forget the actual size? But it fits the housing perfectly! I love it for indoors, it's a very clear pic. of the X! but like someone else stated, you must focus on the X, and not the "grind"! I am pretty sure it's virtually impossible to hold it perfectly centered, and dead still! Just focus on the X!!!


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## Juice Box Hero (Aug 3, 2005)

I'm currently shooting the 4X 3/8" grind lens for indoors (#2 clarifier). Last year I shot indoors and field with a 6X 3/8" grind (#3 clarifier). I like both set ups. I've tried the 1/4" grind in a couple different powers and it's just too small for me. On a 5 spot I like to see a little bit of that dark blue ring.


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## oldglorynewbie (Oct 17, 2006)

JAVI said:


> That is exactly why the comparision isn't valid. The true spot is a small circle of magnification in a clear lens, not a small circle of opaque or colored tape. You can see the entire target and only when you are centered is the target spot magnified.
> 
> Also I would never recommend a student of mine begin with a 1/4" grind and 6 power..


What would you recommend they start with?


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

oldglorynewbie said:


> What would you recommend they start with?


3/8" 4X unless they've been shooting with a higher power lens for a good while.. Then possibly a 3/8"6x


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## field14 (May 21, 2002)

I agree 100% with Javi on this issue...

I have both the 4X-3/8" and the 6X-3/8"...and I even have the 8X-1/4"...that sits in the lens case 99% of the time.

The 4X just offers up a little better visual cue and seems to help me focus thru the grind and not try to force it to be still. if you force that gring to be still...you are going to lose that battle and get frustrated. the eyes do the work for you...not your muscle power, hahahaha.

but you gotta let the eyes do the work; otherwise it is frustrationsville.

field14


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## youngarchery (May 31, 2006)

Does any one have a six power that they want to sale im looking for a six power lense for a apex 3d housing


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## field14 (May 21, 2002)

youngarchery said:


> Does any one have a six power that they want to sale im looking for a six power lense for a apex 3d housing


You will most likely have to have a custom size lens made to fit your apex3D housing....I don't think it is the same size as the lens that would fit a "normal" TrueSpot scope housing...


here's the link to check out with TrueSpot and to get a custom sized lens made for your housing.


You will most likely have to have a custom size lens made to fit your apex3D housing....I don't think it is the same size as the lens that would fit a "normal" TrueSpot scope housing...


here's the link to check out with TrueSpot and to get a custom sized lens made for your housing.

http://www.truespotscopes.com/7128.html

Notice that Jim (TrueSpot scopes) WILL MAKE YOU A CUSTOM LENS....they also give instruction as to how to measure up for the lens size you need to fit your housing.

field14


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## youngarchery (May 31, 2006)

ok thanks for the info ill check it out


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## hunter3d (Aug 6, 2005)

Alright my first true spot lense just showed up. My question is how is shooting this style of lense versus a coventional type? right now I have a 6x lense in my scope and I am changing it to a 6x 3/8" grind true spot. Does it change the sight picture a ton? Did it take long to get used to? Just wondering what to expect after the change.


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## S4 300-60 (Mar 18, 2003)

hunter3d said:


> Alright my first true spot lense just showed up. My question is how is shooting this style of lense versus a coventional type? right now I have a 6x lense in my scope and I am changing it to a 6x 3/8" grind true spot. Does it change the sight picture a ton? Did it take long to get used to? Just wondering what to expect after the change.



Let me throw it in my bow and i'll let ya know......:wink:

Here is a TTT for you to get the experts on the case though.....


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## I BOW 2 (May 22, 2002)

Hunter3d, you ask what to expect with your new true-spot lens. I am here to tell you to not "Expect" anything in advance!!!!! Now that I have said that. I will say this. Force your brain to let go of the "aiming calibration syndrome" that you use with "dots & Rings" If you will just concentrate on looking at what you are trying to hit above all other conventional aiming thoughts your true-spot experience will be very relaxing and the results surprising. Remember if you can see it you can hit it!!!!! :wink: Ken


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

I BOW 2 said:


> Hunter3d, you ask what to expect with your new true-spot lens. I am here to tell you to not "Expect" anything in advance!!!!! Now that I have said that. I will say this. Force your brain to let go of the "aiming calibration syndrome" that you use with "dots & Rings" If you will just concentrate on looking at what you are trying to hit above all other conventional aiming thoughts your true-spot experience will be very relaxing and the results surprising. Remember if you can see it you can hit it!!!!! :wink: Ken


Absolutely...


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## hunter3d (Aug 6, 2005)

Well the first night wasn't so hot. Actually it sucked. I'll let you throw it on your bow next time you see me if you want cause it ain't on my bow anymore. I'm gonna try it again but I have to get my release down first. The principle is cool but I'm just not steady enough to see through that little circle yet. I will try the aiming advice next time I put it in my scope though.:darkbeer:


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## redneckarcher29 (Oct 13, 2005)

I can't say if I like it or not. I am useing the 6x 1/4 lens. I did not like the 3/8 6x pne. its very wierd...I can say I matched my highest score ever after the third day of shooting I decided I would shoot a 600 end NAA and matched my highest ever...so I mean its not bad....Its good, but just wierd!!!! I think Ill keep shooting it.


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## hunter3d (Aug 6, 2005)

I think if I spent some time with it I could get used to it. My only problem is I'm trying to learn back tension and the lense only caused more issuses for me right now.


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

hunter3d said:


> I think if I spent some time with it I could get used to it. My only problem is I'm trying to learn back tension and the lense only caused more issuses for me right now.


You don't learn to shoot a bow with back tension while shooting a target... 



quit it...:wink: 

take the scope off and just shoot the shot with no aiming


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## PSEloyal (Aug 23, 2006)

So would this scope be easier for someone that hasnt shot in several years to get used to since they are not pre adjuted to pins anymore


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## hunter3d (Aug 6, 2005)

I would imagine if you were not used to looking at a dot or pin all the time you could get used to just as fast as anything else. For me the problem was trying to many things at once. I'm going to try it again sometime in the near future.


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## AKDoug (Aug 27, 2003)

I shot pins for years and this was my first type of lense. I took to it just fine since it really was the way I was aiming with a pin anyway. Even with pins I just line it up on the target then focus on the X and let my subconscious align everything up. That's the same way you should shoot this lense. Forget about keeping everything centered and aligned..just focus on the X and let your subconscious do the work.


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## TX Bowhunter (Dec 13, 2004)

JAVI said:


> You don't learn to shoot a bow with back tension while shooting a target...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You learn to shoot back tension without a sight in front of a blank target face and you shoot and shoot and shoot and shoot and shoot and shoot...

You get the idea.

Get you a counter and every time you make a good shot (not a bad one) punch on the counter and when the number on the counter says 3000 (at least that is what I did) then you can start with a target @ 5 yrds to get used to aiming with you concious mind and shooting with the subconcious.

If you can shoot well @ 5 then go to 7 then 10 then 12 then 15 and so on and so on. At any point if you feel you are trying to control the shot then go back to the blank bale.

Sound about right Javi :wink:

The Tru Spot is an ingenious idea that has helped many archers achieve higher scores and forget about aiming (Me included). The mind is the most powerful tool in archery I have figured out in the past 4 months thanks to coaching and alot of hard work. The tru spot allows you to focus all your attention on the X and nothing else...If you can't see the X then let down and start over becuase you can't force it there.

I shoot a 6X .375 grind and a #1 clarifier and I love it. 

A great man suggested it to me:wink:


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## bigHUN (Feb 5, 2006)

Her's my story...
Last summer I've got a seriouse TP from "C" thumb trigger, cost me couple hundred bucks of arrows thrown-distroyed in the 3D-woods. I shall sell all my staff and go fishing, would make more sence. 
Last fall toke a month of brake, than started curing my TP slowly with SCAT release, then the HHA LP1 and finally ended using a LittleBGoose with the scope but w/o lens or pin, just shooting in to blank backstop. 
In January the winter league started, I was hasseling with my up pin couple days, and than my TRUESPOT x8 3/8 arrived. Toke me a day or two to figure out how that thing is working, found a #3 red clarifier for best combination.
Finally ended the 14 week league with most 300's, most X's, highest club scores.
Thanks to TRUESPOT. That was a biggest supprise for myself as well. I never shoot that high scores in my life.
On five blue spots I am pushing out the Shibuya sight all the way to see a small ring of blue. For 3 yellow spots even further, but not enough, will buy one more 1/4 lens for those X's only. And now using #1 yellow clarifier (instead of #3 from year ago), funny but can not explain how come.
And still straggeling to get back to back tension, TX BOWHUNTER I will take your addvise and spend some time with it. And also to mention that still can not work anything with my thumb, screwing up everything.
Finally, the effect of TRUESPOT? At least "one thing less" to mess up the brain, no pin and no ring to put extra concentration. The center magnified spot (3/8 or 1/4) manifies the X only the surrounding is blank only, just hold on X and it will hit exactly what you see. If the X is running around let it down and start over again, untill will stop.


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