# Broadhead tuning dna??



## twistedmetall (Aug 3, 2012)

I need some advise on BH tuning a 70lb 28dl RH DNA, shooting .300 27" kinetics, centershot lazered in but I really do not know how accurate that is?
anyway BH are shooting 5"-6" to the right @ 30yds. from my understanding underspined arrows will shoot to the right. I figure I am a little over spined if anything?
My evo and hf is 28 as well and BH is same as FP, so I dont think it is my form from to long of DL. Ive moved my rest a little to the left and to the right with no effects?


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## twistedmetall (Aug 3, 2012)

Maybe I will try .340 spined arrow?


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## twistedmetall (Aug 3, 2012)

NUTS AND BOLTS HHEEEEELLLLPPPP MEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE buddy


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## twistedmetall (Aug 3, 2012)

Nobody?


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

try yoke tuning?


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## twistedmetall (Aug 3, 2012)

I have not, not sure which side ?


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

Before broadhead tuning shoot field points, shoot bare shaft and fletched shaft at same spot. If bare shaft hits left of fletched, twist right yoke a turn and untwist left yoke a turn until they are hitting the same left and right...opposite directions for bare shaft impacting right.


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## twistedmetall (Aug 3, 2012)

Ok after bareshaft tune I should be shooting BH and FT the same? Im thinking I might be overspined going to bare shaft tune .340s before I move anything, Thanx alpha


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

twistedmetall said:


> Ok after bareshaft tune I should be shooting BH and FT the same? Im thinking I might be overspined going to bare shaft tune .340s before I move anything, Thanx alpha


not neccessarily, from there you may have to make slight rest adjustments but you will be close.


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## BlueMuzzy (Dec 12, 2012)

My suggestion is to tune your bow the best you can with field points, whatever technique you use and are confident in. When you KNOW the bow is tuned, don't move the rest as the tuning of the bow is a separate issue from the sighting of the bow. You want the arrow flying the best it can for maximum efficiency and kinetic energy. Then adjust your sight for broadhead impact point. Why through your bow OUT of tune, to get the same impact point?


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## Stoo (Nov 22, 2010)

BlueMuzzy said:


> My suggestion is to tune your bow the best you can with field points, whatever technique you use and are confident in. When you KNOW the bow is tuned, don't move the rest as the tuning of the bow is a separate issue from the sighting of the bow. You want the arrow flying the best it can for maximum efficiency and kinetic energy. Then adjust your sight for broadhead impact point. Why through your bow OUT of tune, to get the same impact point?


Broadheads will amplify a slight out of tune situation that you will not see with field points. If you don't have same point of impact with fps and bhs then I don't think the bow is in tune. I always broadhead tune.


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## shanedut (Sep 28, 2009)

I would not be surprised if your bow doesnt like a stiffer shaft. My Elite pure at 60lbs with a 28" arrow likes gold tip 7595s so too stiff might not be the problem. Try a 340 shaft if you have it but try lowering the poundage also and see if that corrects it to the right if it does you know your bow likes stiff arrows.


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## twistedmetall (Aug 3, 2012)

shanedut said:


> I would not be surprised if your bow doesnt like a stiffer shaft. My Elite pure at 60lbs with a 28" arrow likes gold tip 7595s so too stiff might not be the problem. Try a 340 shaft if you have it but try lowering the poundage also and see if that corrects it to the right if it does you know your bow likes stiff arrows.



there are two different spined GT 7595s .340 and .300 yours are .340 slightly overspined. I always wondered why GT stamped 7595 on there .340 arrows when in fact no one should ever shoot one of these out of 75-95lb bow at 28+dl


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## berry79 (Jul 20, 2012)

Have you tried paper tuning yet? It's not the last step but, sure helps get me close. Especially my nock hieght position. You'll be surprised how much nock hieght can effect your left or right impact issues. I always paper tune followed by nuts&bolts kitchen sink method. After that broads seem to hit with field points. Had an issues a while back were I couldn't get my left right impact dialed in. I ended up just removing my d- loop and resetting rest position back to manufactures recommended center, retied in the d-loop and started over. After this, I had it paper tuned within 5 min. Followed kitchen sink method for about 15 min. After that everything would hit together, bare shaft, field points, and broadheads.


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

Can you post or pm me a link to Nuts and Bolts "kitchen sink method"...I somehow have missed that one


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

twistedmetall said:


> there are two different spined GT 7595s .340 and .300 yours are .340 slightly overspined. I always wondered why GT stamped 7595 on there .340 arrows when in fact no one should ever shoot one of these out of 75-95lb bow at 28+dl


NO there is one spine that GT signifies as 7595 and its a .340 spine, that doesnt mean its for a 75 to 95# bow, its just their numbering system they use.


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## berry79 (Jul 20, 2012)

Alpha Burnt said:


> Can you post or pm me a link to Nuts and Bolts "kitchen sink method"...I somehow have missed that one


Scroll down a few post until you see nuts&bolts post. 
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1844443&highlight=tuning


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## twistedmetall (Aug 3, 2012)

I bare shaft tuned my bow got shooting perfect up to 20 yds, the bare shafts are penatrating further than the fletched arrows so its got to be pretty dang close to being supertuned going to compare FT and BHs tommoro Ive seen that nuts and bolts kitchensink before just couldnt find it. thanx for that by the way, best tuning right up ive seen. now if I could just remember it LOL!


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

if you got BS good at 20 i suspect youll find BHs doing very well out to yardage also. i know ive had some bows that shot very well out to 30 even with bludgeon points and when you get good BS results i think youll find its good all around.

GL with BHs.....just go fling a BH at 50 and when i hits dead center yell BOOOYAAAAA LOL


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## Ches (Aug 3, 2009)

You have probably done this, but make sure you spin test the FBBH prior to shooting. Once I had a head that was slightly off that I used during FBBH tuning. Drove me nuts for a while till I figured it out (spun it in my hand). Sometimes I think I either learn more or the learning stick deeper when I make mistakes like that, I will never do that again (I hope).

Ches.


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## twistedmetall (Aug 3, 2012)

Ches said:


> You have probably done this, but make sure you spin test the FBBH prior to shooting. Once I had a head that was slightly off that I used during FBBH tuning. Drove me nuts for a while till I figured it out (spun it in my hand). Sometimes I think I either learn more or the learning stick deeper when I make mistakes like that, I will never do that again (I hope).
> 
> Ches.


 LOL! Ya one of the BH was out of balance pretty bad, Im shooting FT and BH pretty close @30 yds BH are 1" -1" 1/2, 
should have it dead on tommoro after work


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

Ches said:


> You have probably done this, but make sure you spin test the FBBH prior to shooting. Once I had a head that was slightly off that I used during FBBH tuning. Drove me nuts for a while till I figured it out (spun it in my hand). Sometimes I think I either learn more or the learning stick deeper when I make mistakes like that, I will never do that again (I hope).
> 
> Ches.


VERY TRUE ive learned that this past year and also about ACC arrows, had some bent LOL try shooting Bh with bent arrows HAHA in the dirt at 50yds DOH glad i only paid $15 per pack for my montecs since those are now trashed


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## twistedmetall (Aug 3, 2012)

BH 50yds dead center BOOOYAAA!!!


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## OCOutdoors (Dec 6, 2012)

I bare shaft tuned my DNA and now want to move to BH tuning. How do I go about doing this?


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