# DrenLD bare shaft flies nock left.



## mrawesome22 (Aug 27, 2010)

This is driving me crazy. When I shoot a bare shaft at 20 yards, I can watch my arrow flying with the nock about 5 inches left of the point. It doesn't fishtail back and forth. It just goes left of the point and stays there. The bare shafts hit 6 inches to the right of fletched arrow.

ATA is dead on. BH dead on. Cam timing is perfect. When I run a shaft on the idler wheel down to my nock point, the shaft is about 1/8 inch from string. Idler looks good at full draw. I'm pulling 61lbs draw, using a 29.25 inch arrow. I shoot Easton Axis 400's. Bought a 340 and got the same results.

I've moved the center shot in and out with the same results.

I've tried using different grip pressures.

I'm getting decent groups and walk back tuning works great.

Dad tells me paper tuning and bare shaft are a waste of time and that I'm just getting frustrated for no reason.

I tried putting 3 full twists in the left side yoke and all that did was made my idler lean very badly, but still the same nock left bare shaft flight.

Anyone have any other ideas? I've been reading for 2 days on her via the search function. Arghh.


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## MT100gr. (Feb 20, 2012)

I struggled with the same thing with my mathews reezen. for the life of me I couldn't work out a left tear. with the help of my proshop, i was able to get it close to a bullet hole but mathews are tough to paper tune perfectly. however, you need to remember that you wont shoot bare shafts for hunting/target/etc. so if that frustrates you put them away. also, as I had to remind myself, consistency is everything. if your bow walk back tunes OK and shots groups you are satisfied with, that is where it needs to be. It was hard for me to get away from the papertuner at 6 feet, but when I moved back to 12 yards, and anywhere beyond, the arrow is stabilized and shooting very well. I leaned my idler some, but not enough to completely eliminate the left tear and still have decent centershot. paper is just the starting point, for me the consistency at longer ranges is more important and even though I cant shoot a bullet hole at 6 feet, (I wont even tell you how ugly the bare shaft tear is) I am happy with tight groups at 60, 70, 80+ yards. like i said, I struggled with this, mostly because i am a perfectionist and i wanted a 13/16 centershot, perfectly plumb idler at full draw and at rest, bullet holes, etc....this wasn't realistic with my setup.


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## mrawesome22 (Aug 27, 2010)

Perfectionist here also. That's why this is driving me crazy. The bow shoots well with broadheads and fieldpoints.

My reasoning is that if I could get a bare shaft flying good, surely my fletched groups would tighten up.

Oh well. I'm gonna put a couple twists in the right yoke and see what that does.

Thanks.


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## threetoe (May 13, 2011)

You probably have slight contact or poor nock travel because of excessive cam lean or faulty synchronization.

Speed up the drop time of your rest.

Double check wheel alignment and synchronization again


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## mrawesome22 (Aug 27, 2010)

Cam is perfectly timed. Idler lean is perfect. No rest contact.


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## MT100gr. (Feb 20, 2012)

For what its worth, in all of my setting and resetting and tinkering, etc. I was able to get a very near-bullethole with a bare shaft with centershot to close to the riser to shoot vanes. I knew it had to be possible, so I took off my ripcord and used an old whisker biscuit and slid it way over toward the riser...it wasn't perfect, and it wasn't practical but it eased my mind some. then i put the ripcord back on and gave enough clearance for the vanes and fine-tuned it as close as i could. 3-toe makes a good point too, be sure everything is in spec and timed....just go for consistency, i shoot my mathews better than any of my other bows (though I am just getting used to my Hoyt...) its always consistent, and shoots where i aim. I will say, though, that trying to make it perfect, and knowing that it is as close as I can get it, has actually boosted my confidence in the bow. Now it stays where I have it set and I deal with its imperfections.


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## mrawesome22 (Aug 27, 2010)

If I move my rest in super tight to the riser, I can get a decent tear through paper..... then my broadheads go berzerk fishtailing and corkscrewing all the way to the target.


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## mrawesome22 (Aug 27, 2010)

I put some twists in the right side yoke. Made it worse.

Only thing I can think of now is cam bearings. Or just live with the fact this thing won't paper tune no matter what.


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## DXTCLUE (Apr 4, 2010)

If its a new string alot of the time the serving on the string is a little on the fat side.


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## mrawesome22 (Aug 27, 2010)

It's a ProStrings. After I installed it, I re-center served it with some thinner spiderwire so there is 1/2" above and below my d-loop.


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## DXTCLUE (Apr 4, 2010)

Have you tried uning a different arrow besides the axis? I have some also but my bows shoot the Carbon Express arrows a lot better. Just a thought


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## mrawesome22 (Aug 27, 2010)

Just tried some gold tip and a few different cx. All the same nock left and hit way right.

It is amazing how much more penetration there is with the axis.


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## mrawesome22 (Aug 27, 2010)

Gonna take off the dead end tomorrow and see what happens.


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## DXTCLUE (Apr 4, 2010)

It could be the dead end string stop. I have one on my Conquest,I have mine turned up closer to the D loop and make sure the string is right dead center of the rubber, I also have it so that the string just touches the stop.


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

mrawesome22 said:


> It's a ProStrings. After I installed it, I re-center served it with some thinner spiderwire so there is 1/2" above and below my d-loop.


WHY???? your only have an inch of center serving???


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## mrawesome22 (Aug 27, 2010)

Yep. Reduces weight on the string. The only need for a bunch of center serve is if you shoot with fingers.


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## mrawesome22 (Aug 27, 2010)

Took the dead end off. Nothing changed.


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## Andy. (Jan 12, 2011)

Bare shafts are very sensitive to nock orientation. Try turning the nock a little and shoot again. Keep turning until it acts like you want. 

1" of center serving will never grip the string enough to keep the nock from sliding. I would go 3" at the very minimum.


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## mrawesome22 (Aug 27, 2010)

I have all my arrows nock tuned. Still bare shafts fly nock left.

Serving doesn't slip.

Any other ideas? Seems a lot of other Mathews owners have this same problem and no one has figured out the solution yet.


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

mrawesome22 said:


> Yep. Reduces weight on the string. The only need for a bunch of center serve is if you shoot with fingers.


LOL you gotta be crazy to worry about a few inches of serving and how much that even changes speed. not sure if any chrony will even register the difference. i just weighed about 13ft of serving and it was bout 9g, you took off maybe 2/3gn of weight for no real reason.

how much have you played with DW on the bow??? when you shot the 340s they were exactly still 6" to the right with same length and weight???


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## Bearlee (Dec 24, 2009)

Rest timing.
The string may be pulling on you cables too tightly. Loosen it up. At the pro shop this worked wonders on my Vector 35 LD.


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## mrawesome22 (Aug 27, 2010)

All arrows were same length. The 340's were a couple grains heavier. Even the gold tips and cx hit the same.

Ata and cam timing perfect.

Gain 4fps over the chrono. It's a hunting bow so every little bit counts.

Groups great with fletch. Just drives me crazy I can't get bare shafts flying well.


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## Windrover (Jan 6, 2012)

How much does draw weight affect nock left flight. Eight inches sounds like a pound or two.


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## 152732 (Sep 26, 2009)

twist left yoke untwist right. keep arrow at centershot. You need some lean in top wheel.


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## flag (Oct 4, 2009)

Check the roller guard bearings I replaced mine on my dxt and it shoot 100% better


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## MT100gr. (Feb 20, 2012)

the last 2 posts are good advice for sure. I also replaced my roller guard...not sure if it helped but seems smoother. and with the static roller guard system, i found the only way to get better flight was to lean the idler...the perfectionist in me hates it, but it immediately improved my tune.


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