# Diamond Stud - Excessive creep and no valley!



## NP Archery (Jul 29, 2008)

If you have no valley and little let-off, IMO, your draw length issue has not been resolved.


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## hauntedbyelk (May 3, 2009)

*Draw length problem?*

Thanks for your reply. Here's some more background: I've had my draw length checked several times in various proshops and I always come out at 29 to 291/2 inches with different releases. I've been measured mutilple ways (wingspan, measuring arrow at full draw, observing my draw and anchor etc.). Anything shorter and I can't get to full draw and hit my anchor points comfortably. The valley problem exists all all draw lengths from 28 to 29 1/2 and the techs haven't been able to fix it through module adjustments or post settings.
The wierd thing is I've shot a test bow in the store at 29" and the tech adjusted it to a very nice wall and valley with a nice letoff. It was easy to hold at full draw and no creep problems.


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## hauntedbyelk (May 3, 2009)

*Diamond Stud Tuning Issues - no valley*

Still fighting the no valley issues described in the above posts. Any suggestions from the archery pros out there before I give up on this bow?


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## hauntedbyelk (May 3, 2009)

*Mare background on Diamond Stud tuning problem*

More background:

Went throught the manual again and checked the timing dots. Owners manaul says "when properly timed, the down cable should intersect a specifc timing dot." Checked the bow and the down cable intersects perfectly with dot # 8. Not sure where to go from here.


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## ieatmeat (Feb 16, 2009)

You are better off to have someone else look at it when you are at full draw or have them take a picture of the upper cam and the lower cam individually. You'll want to compare the two to see if they are pulling back the same. 

Read the following link and it'll tell you how to time your bow. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=626255


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## NP Archery (Jul 29, 2008)

Check the bow's DL and see EXACTLY what it is and forget what the sticker or paper work says. A draw board works best for this. Set the cam timing while you have a draw board available also. You say that you have tried different module adjustments? What adjustments to the mods? Post settings?

I'm no expert but, almost sounds to me like the bow's DL is too short. Either the shop bow was labeled wrong OR your bow is labeled wrong. Again, check the DL on a draw board.


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## hauntedbyelk (May 3, 2009)

*Draw length and module adjustments*

Brought my bow to another pro shop today (3rd one). Draw length checked out at exactly 29 inches again with a meausuring arrow on the rest and me right on at my anchor points. It's a single cam and there are only two settings that can be adjusted. Draw length is adjusted by backing out three screws and rotating the draw length module to the proper index mark. The adjustments have been right on as far as draw length is concerned. The other adjustment is the post setting. I've adjusted the post to the chart setting for 29 inch draw and experimented by adjusting it back a forth a bit to try to get some let off and valley. I pushed the post setting up as far as I could until there was an air gap between the post and the limb at full draw. Then I moved it back to just touch and got a tiny bit of valley and let off. Measured the let off on a scale and at 63 lbs draw weight I'm holding 25 lbs and if I back off on it an ounce it creeps. The shop owner noticed some cam lean right at the end of the draw stroke and it looks like the cable drops toward the axel. Also checked the ATA and it came out right at factory specs. Not sure what else to try. I'm not sure what a draw board is or how to use one.


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## hauntedbyelk (May 3, 2009)

*Diamond Stud going back*

I haven't been able to correct the let-off / valley issue on this bow and have spent more time working on it than shooting it. Pretty frustrating with a brand new bow that shot well when I tested the same model in two shops. Time to return it to the shop and start over. Not sure whether to try another one or try something else. I'm pretty savvy with mechanical things and pretty persistent but this isn't what I had in mind when I dropped over $1000 on a whole package. Disappointing to say the least.


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## ieatmeat (Feb 16, 2009)

hauntedbyelk said:


> I haven't been able to correct the let-off / valley issue on this bow and have spent more time working on it than shooting it. Pretty frustrating with a brand new bow that shot well when I tested the same model in two shops. Time to return it to the shop and start over. Not sure whether to try another one or try something else. I'm pretty savvy with mechanical things and pretty persistent but this isn't what I had in mind when I dropped over $1000 on a whole package. Disappointing to say the least.


Another dissatisfied customer of Bowtech products! Seems to be a trend here...


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## azmtnman (Mar 7, 2009)

What is the poundage set at and have you tried backing off on the poundage to see if this helps? If I recall correctly from another post you are new to shooting a bow and it may be that your muscles are fatigued.


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## hauntedbyelk (May 3, 2009)

*Bow creep and muscle fatigue*

I was shooting at 63 lbs to extend my shooting sessions a bit and work on my form. I'm a new shooter but muscle fatigue didn't seem to be a big issue. I learned to quit when fatigue started setting in my groups started to grow. Was only able to shoot 3 days a week so I had a rest in-between. I'm 6 ft 220 lbs, stocky build with good uppper body strength from years of rowing whitewater rafts. I took the bow back today and had two techs go over it again. They were not able to help - still no let off and no valley to speak of. The only way I could keep it from creeping is to draw to the wall, hold 25+ lbs and add 15+ more lbs of back pressure to keep it from creeping. Minute movements or trying to settle in behind the peep, relax, focus on sight picture, breathing, etc. and the bow would creep. By contrast I shot three 70 lb bows today both single and dual cam and none of these creeped on me. The technicians that tried my bow had the same problem. They offered to swap it out for a new one but didn't have one in stock so I just got my money back. Too bad as I liked everything else about this bow. Will have to try another one or maybe a Black Ice.


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## Washi (Jan 23, 2005)

I wish they would have figured out what was wrong with the bow. I would like to know what could cause it to be like that.


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## azmtnman (Mar 7, 2009)

It sounds like you have a great dealer and you are now in the hunt for another bow. I saw a great deal on a Pearson Z34 on this site, $300 brand new and the MSRP on it is $679. It was a 50 - 60 lb bow which may be too small for you.

Read the review on them they are suppose to be great smooth shooting bows. I would like to try one myself but there are no Pearson dealers in my neck of the desert.


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## hauntedbyelk (May 3, 2009)

*Back to the hunt for the right bow*

Tried out another Diamond Stud at a different shop today and with no tuning (already set at my draw length) it had more let off and valley than the one I purchased. Was tempted to do some tweaking to see what I could do with it but I have to admit I'm a bit gun shy about buying another one. Also tried a Diamond Black Ice - exceptionally smooth draw and very nice to shoot. It's a little shorter (ATA is 32 vs 33.25) and has more brace height (7.5 vs 7) than the Stud and had a nicer draw cycle. Had to change a module to match my draw length instead of just adjusting the module like on the Stud. Next I tried a Mathews Drenalin which I liked a lot but it was not even close to my drawlength so I wasn't able to do much with it. Tried a Bowtech Air Raid? but didn't like the draw cycle at all. I've never tried a Person bow. Maybe I'll try them next.


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## vwpittman (Mar 9, 2007)

Sounds to me like there was something wrong with the module. Should have sent to Bowtech and let them figure it out, which is what the dealer is probably going to do with it anyway.


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## hauntedbyelk (May 3, 2009)

*Send bow back to Diamond?*

I definitely thought about sending it back to Diamond and expect they could have resolved the issue without too much trouble. Problem was by the time that option came up I had already spent way too much time trying to get this bow to work. I was pretty frustrated and lost confidence in the bow. Dropped over $1000.00 on a new bow and accessories and two weeks later it was still not working right. Thought I might be able to just trade it at the shop for one that worked but they didn't have one available. Best option at that point was to just return it and let the shop deal with it instead of me getting an RA, finding a shipping box, writing a letter, shipping it and waiting for who knows how long to get my brand new bow back in usable condition.


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## hauntedbyelk (May 3, 2009)

*Bought a Mathews Drenalin*

After a couple weeks trying to get a new Diamond Stud dialed in I finally returned it and started the search again for the right bow. Today I ran into a great deal on a closeout brand new Mathews Drenalin and bought it. Seems like a pretty nice bow for my needs with decent speed and a reasonably nice draw. I like the 33 inch ATA and forgiving 7 in brace height. It has a solid wall and a comfortable valley. Works well with my 29 inch draw length and experience level. I've always thought the Mathews Solo Cams were nice bows but overpriced at full retail. I'll be setting it up this week - wish me luck!


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