# Yoke tuning problem NEED HELP ASAP!!!!!!!!!!



## Flame-Tamer (Mar 1, 2009)

Get your bow back to ATA, Brace, and lbdage specs. Then draw the bow and see if there is a whel lean concern. Usually you can twist the long side of the yoke to pull lean out at full draw. Then see if that helps. Holler if I can help anymore.. Hank


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## NCBowhuntn93 (Sep 6, 2013)

I checked all the specs and everything looked good. I center up my idle wheel as good as possible and still getting the left tear. Do I need to keep twisting yoke cables. If so which yoke cable do I twist and which one do I untwist. 

Thanks for helping me out Flame-Tamer


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## wacker stacker (Feb 2, 2006)

twist left yoke to clean up tail left and right poi and the opposite for tail right.


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## hrtlnd164 (Mar 22, 2008)

Post your bow specs ( draw length, draw weight) and arrow specs( spine, length and point weight). May be a spine issue first. The Venture centershot should be set right around 13/16" from the riser to the center of the shaft. Then yoke tune. Tail left tear= add twist to the left side of the yoke and remove twist from the right. If yoke tuning does not change the results you have other issues. Possibly spine, grip torque, fletch contact, etc.


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## NCBowhuntn93 (Sep 6, 2013)

Thank yall for the help again. im goin to see what my draw weight is tomorrow and im gunna get some new arrows I think its a possibility the spine of my arrows are to weak. thanks for the help again I appreciate it.


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## NCBowhuntn93 (Sep 6, 2013)

I got some Blue streak selects and did some yoke tuning. I am now shooting bullet holes but I have a few questions. My idle cam isn't vertically straight its off just a tad is that a bad thing? And my rest isn't set at 13/16 its close to the riser but not real close does it have to be set at 13/16?


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Still no real bow information and Blue Streaks doesn't tell anything. 

If 13/16" is a given starting point by the manufacturer, then that's what 13/16" is, a starting point. Actual may vary....


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## tripleb2431 (Aug 25, 2009)

You can't get rid of cam lean out of a bow when u yoke tune what your doing is taking out of full draw but that in returns gives ya some lean at rest. So that's normal. But yes you need to get rest center shot set as perfect as possible before you start your yoke tuning with bare shafts


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

NCBowhuntn93 said:


> I just got a NAP drop away rest for my bow and was paper tuning it the other day and kept getting a left tear(fletchings on the left and feildpoint on the right) I kept on moving the rest to the right and got bullet holes but the rest was so far to the right if I had a broached on my arrow it wouldn't allow me to pull it all the way back because the braodhead would get stuck on the riser.So I looked at a paper tuning chart and read some forums and they said it could be my idler wheel. So I looked at my idle wheel and it had a lean that looked like this /. I took it to a bowtech that suposivley knows what he is doing and asked him about yoke tuning and he looked at me like I was crazy. Anyway he put the bow on the press and twisted the left yoke cable about 5 times and didn't twist or untwist the right one at all and the idle wheel was slanting hard in this direction \. Sooooo then he he untwisted the left side some and the cam was still leaning in this direction \. I just took the bow and left after that cause I was flustrated with this fella. I ordered a portable bow press and got in the mail today and im gunna do the yoke tuning myself. I have a few questions. I want to start from the begining so do I need to untwist both cables all the way and then evenly twist them so I know there even. If so how many twist do I need to put in them to get them even? Or do I need to just start at where im at right now and go from there. Also my cam on the bottom of my bow has a hole on it and a cable should run through the middle to show cams are in tune and its to the left of the hole do I need to twist my string or cable to center the cable back up with the hole?
> 
> I shoot a Mission Venture.
> 
> If yall could help me out with this I would be greatly appreciated because im really flustrated and bow season opens up Saturday down here and iv been waitin all year and my bows all messed up hahah



Hello NCBowhuntn93:

I can help you fix this,
IF you are willing to purchase a portable bow press
and
build a draw board.

You can fix this,
after I show you what to do,
and 
in what order.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

So,
this is your bow.



So,
we need to FIRST check your top cam lean,
when your bow is at full draw.

We need to build a pulling device
to SAFELY hold the bow at full draw,
so we can take our time,
and check stuff.

$25 winch from Walmart.

8-foot long 2x4.
I used a metal rail, called Unistrut or SuperStrut.
2x4 will do EXACTLY the same thing.

I bolted the $25 winch to a small piece of plywood.














That's all a draw board is,
a long length of 2x4 works just fine...

and at ONE end,
you screw down the plate of plywood to the bottom side
of the boat winch frame
is about 3-inches HIGHER than the pipe end of the draw board.

The other end of the 2x4,
you purchase a 8-inch length of threaded
1/2-inch diameter pipe

and you purchase the floor plate
that fits 1/2-inch threaded pipe.

Screw the floor plate to the 2x4.
Screw in the 8-inch length of 1/2-inch threaded pipe nipple.
Wrap with electrical tape or duct tape.

You now clamp the 2x4 to your workbench,
and you are DONE,
you now have a SAFE
draw board.


So,
what's next?


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

*NOW, we check the top cam lean angle position, when at FULL DRAW*

I twist tied TWO arrows to the sides of the top cam,
just for picture purposes,
so you can EASILY see
what things look like,
when the YOKE legs
are twisted CORRECTLY








so you have ZERO cam lean,
when at full draw.

*This is what EVERY ONE should start with,
BEFORE you shoot your FIRST arrow.*


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Does not MATTER what your cam looks like,
when the bow is at rest.

ONLY THING THAT MATTERS,
is what the top cam looks like,
when you are at full draw.

So,
if your bow
does NOT pass this test,
when at full draw,
in your NEW draw board...

then,
you use your new Bowmaster Portable Bow Press,
to SQUEEZE your limb tips,
and
then,
you adjust EACH Yoke Leg,
longer or shorter,
until you pass the TOP CAM ZERO LEAN ANGLE test,
when at full draw,
in your newly built draw board.


So,
purchase a BowMaster portable bow press,
so you can fix this yourself.


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## joaxe (Sep 7, 2006)

nuts&bolts,

Now THAT is an archer helping an archer!!! I always appreciate reading your in-depth posts about tuning. So glad I got the PDF you had put together!

Joe


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## NCBowhuntn93 (Sep 6, 2013)

Sorry yall haven't had time to get on here lately but thank you for your help. Especially Nuts&bolts your the man for doing all that for me I really appreciate it! I want to make a draw board really bad but iv been working so much haven't really had the time but I wiil soon! Thanks again everybody for the help. Im trying to learn how to do these things by myself so I don't have to rely on other people to do it and yall are giving me great information. Thanks again!


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## NCBowhuntn93 (Sep 6, 2013)

Thamks again everybody yall are helpin out so much!!


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## Ruttin BUX (Aug 13, 2008)

marked


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