# Stab formula ?



## hunter74 (Nov 23, 2007)

I seen someone posted a formula to figure out the weight and length for v-bar and side bar set ups could someone please post it i can't find it.


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## BrownDog2 (Feb 26, 2009)

Formula is as follows:

length of front bar * weight on front bar = "X"

Then:

"X" / length of back bar = weight on back bar.

So, taking my son's B-Stinger setup as an example:

27" Front bar * 4 ounces = 108

108 / 12" rear bar = 9 ounces for the rear bar.

You then take the 9 ounces, put it on the rear bar. If you do a true V bar, you split the weights between the two bars. If you do a side bar, you do it on the solo side bar.

You then add or remove weight on the rear bar only. Aim for the X. Remove or add weight until your side to side "misses" are down to a nice, ragged oval that basically kills the X.

This is one that was posted for me to use and it worked for me.


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## hunter74 (Nov 23, 2007)

Thanks and so the side bar should be about half the length of the front ?


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## SteveID (May 6, 2008)

hunter74 said:


> Thanks and so the side bar should be about half the length of the front ?


Side bar should be whatever length you want it to be. Longer the side bar, the less weight you will need on the end of it. 12" is kind of the norm for the side rod it seems. 

I'm running 33" front and 12" side. I set it up using the above formula and it worked out pretty close. I added on another 2.5 oz to the back to get it to the sweet spot.

Make sure you use the overall length of the bar for the effective measurement. Measure from the riser to the point where weight is added at the end of the stab. This will add in the length of a QD that you might have on their. On my side bar I just added the length of the mount as well.


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## jonw (Jun 25, 2009)

Are you using the total weight of the front bar or just the amout of weight added. Also what are most people using for total weight of the front stabilizer


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## bloodstripe23 (Oct 3, 2010)

say huh?? to much math for me.


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## WDMJR3DBOWGUY (Dec 2, 2003)

jonw said:


> Are you using the total weight of the front bar or just the amout of weight added. Also what are most people using for total weight of the front stabilizer


You use the total weight you added to the bar, not the weight of the bar. Also include any suppression ie doinkers, etc. into the weight if they are on the end of the bar.

As far as total weigh in the end if the front bar, you should add weight until your left right waggle is gone. It various from person to person and bow to bow.


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## LT. Speed (Nov 28, 2009)

Thanks guys didnt know there was a formula this really helps.:teeth:


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## field14 (May 21, 2002)

Varying the angle horizontally (LtoR) of the "side bar" and also the up/down angle is also very helpful and can actually result in LESS weighting needed for the "back bar". Also, MANY shooters that never used backweights have problems with this idea of the side-weight goes on the side of the bow opposite to the bow site. For those of us that never used side-bars, often times...putting the side weight on the SAME SIDE of the bow as the bow-sight will work wonders and actually help you to stop torquing and get the bow to shoot more directly towards the target upon the break of the release.

This is not an exact science, however, and you get this done mostly by experimentation, an ounce can go a long ways, but where and in what position to put that ounce can be problematical.

field14 (Tom D.)


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## jonw (Jun 25, 2009)

What is the total weight of the front stabilizer's do most people shoot?


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## BrownDog2 (Feb 26, 2009)

I shoot 3oz on a 30" stablizer. I got a set of weights and kept playing on night and when I got to 3oz (actually 2.7) it felt great for me.


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## pozoutdoors (Jan 17, 2010)

I have a 28" posten slim jim on my M7. I've been playing arounnd with the weight on my v-bars. I machine my own weights. Added some more tonight. And had to adjust the angle down on the v-bars. Because the bow danced around way to much. Too much weight on the back. just have to play with the wieight a bit!!!


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## 12-RING SHOOTER (Jul 27, 2010)

im running 6oz on a 24in main bar. and 12oz on a 12in rear bar, and it does good right now, but before outdoor 3-d starts, im gunna add more weight, and play with weight at 40 yards. i shot my spot league the other night, and shot a 35x, out of 45 arrows.


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## ~Spot-Hogg-1~ (Apr 5, 2005)

Never tried this before. I'm always up trying new ideas. I think I'll give it a shot. If anything else it would be a good starting point. Thanks


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## morphious (Dec 17, 2008)

How much does changing the angle on the front stabilizer change the way it feels and holds? I had been thinking about getting an angled front block for my front for a few months.


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## Tooltech (Jun 19, 2011)

I will shoot a new bow for 500-600 arrows with no stabilizers. Then I start with the long rod ( 16 inch to start ). I like Beiter Centralizer ( 4 rod, Carbon with adjustable tuners ) stabilizers. I keep increasing the length without adding metal weights. I find that longer, lighter stabilizers work best for me. I do not use back or side rods.

My 35 inch / 3 tuner / long rod works perfectly on my OK Archery R8-40 / DS ( 8.1 brace, 40 ATA, 60# @ 27.5 true draw length ).


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## asa1485 (Jan 16, 2008)

morphious said:


> How much does changing the angle on the front stabilizer change the way it feels and holds? I had been thinking about getting an angled front block for my front for a few months.


It can actually make the bow "feel" like it has more weight then it actually does


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## Bird Dogg (Aug 18, 2009)

check out the bow balancing jig by dead center archery... www.deadcenterarchery.com 
Todd demonstrates the jig on the home page. You do want some slight forward weight so that it is balanced at draw. check it out.
we have one in our shop

OH, and no math to do.


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## Kade (Jan 11, 2011)

That's great but unfortunately what your bow needs to balance it isn't usually what is best for you and your shot. Actually 95% of the time it isn't. There are tons of different weight and side rod combinations that will work for balancing your bow to sit right at rest. You can only find out what works best for you by shooting and experimenting. 

I know a bunch of really good shooters and I am talking about Pros like Jesse, Braden and Willet and none of them would think about balancing a bow on a jig. The jig doesn't shoot the bow you do. 

You don't need a formula of any sort. Figure out a starting point that you can handle on the front bar and double the weight to start. if you want the bow to look cool siting in a hook then use a jig. If you want the stabs to work for you then your gonna have to put in the work. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## asa1485 (Jan 16, 2008)

Bird Dogg said:


> check out the bow balancing jig by dead center archery... www.deadcenterarchery.com
> Todd demonstrates the jig on the home page. You do want some slight forward weight so that it is balanced at draw. check it out.
> we have one in our shop
> 
> OH, and no math to do.


I like it. But, what if you do not get the bow perfectly centered in the clamp?


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## Bird Dogg (Aug 18, 2009)

I agree with kade to a degree, but the average shooter doesnt even know what to feel for.. I bet you can put a long stab on 99% of peoples bow, and they will be amazed how steady it feels and that is it. They will get used to shooting with forward weight and not know any more..When I got my first long stabilizer it was the same thing. I put a 30" on my katera and shot it just like that for a year with no side weights.
ASA.. it is true, that it can be a little tricky to get it perfect in jig. the clamps hold the bow by grip, and they all fit a little different. I do use it at the shop. For most part I get it balanced left and right pretty good, I leave some forward weight, and use that as a "starting" point. generally I like the left and right balance, and usually have to fudge with the front weights to get right feel at full draw.
Just like this: go to hamskea archery. watch the videos that Tim Gillingham has for the 3rd axis sight leveler. he goes through all these videos on how to set up your bow to level the third axis, and the last video, he basically says, he kants the bow, and changes it all. so what was the point of all the set up in the beginning if your going to Kant the bow? So every set up, wether balancing, 3rd axis or whatever it is all comes to personal preference anyway.
http://www.hamskeaarchery.com/tutorials/video-tutorials.html


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## Bird Dogg (Aug 18, 2009)

the shop owner and I both have hoyt carbon, with the bstinger premier 30" stabilizer. I prefer to use all the weights, and the shop owner likes to use just one. he keeps telling me that I have too much weight, but for me its perfect. now in the jig the bow drops forward like a brick, but in my hands at draw it feels perfect. we have different side bar set ups too, I have dead center archery v-bar mount with one 10" side bar. Joe has Fuse carbon rod with extensions, and when balanced left and right, side by side they look totally different because of the weight distribution.


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## WhitBri (Jan 30, 2007)

What are some general rules of thumb for where to put weight and length, etc based on what I feel/ see in my sight picture. There are just so many variables its hard to know where to start, ex: minimal changes in dl, draw weight. Should I start with bare bow and shoot and go from there. I guess I'm probably not good enough to pick up a bow and shoot it and know it needs and extra 1/8" of draw lengh, or it needs another ounce on the front stab. As stated above I put on my new stab set up and it looks pretty steady for me, I guess I haven't played with it much to know if it is as steady as it could be.


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## WhitBri (Jan 30, 2007)

What are some general rules of thumb for where to put weight and length, etc based on what I feel/ see in my sight picture. There are just so many variables its hard to know where to start, ex: minimal changes in dl, draw weight. Should I start with bare bow and shoot and go from there. I guess I'm probably not good enough to pick up a bow and shoot it and know it needs and extra 1/8" of draw lengh, or it needs another ounce on the front stab. As stated above I put on my new stab set up and it looks pretty steady for me, I guess I haven't played with it much to know if it is as steady as it could be.


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## jmvaughn06 (Jan 10, 2009)

As one of the above posts stated I have had the problem with needing to put my side stab on the sight side of the bow instead of on the opposite side to get it to balance out at full draw. I thought I had decent form, not perfect by no means, does this mean I am creating some sort of torque in the grip? I have had this same problem with two of my bows so I know it has nothing to do with equipment.


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## happyhunter62 (Dec 31, 2010)

asa1485 said:


> It can actually make the bow "feel" like it has more weight then it actually does


does this where the adjustable side bar bracket comes in handy?


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## Outback Man (Nov 21, 2009)

OK...here's a trick question...just looking for a starting point and I can tweak from there...I've currently got a 30" B-stinger front and a 15" B-stinger rear...4 oz. up front (three singles and the Simms end cap thing) and 12 oz. on the rear...I'm thinking about giving some Stokerized stabs a run on my new rig...The front bar is only going to be 20" and the rear will be 10" at the longest (if I get one of their hunter models and just attach to my v-block) or 7" at the shortest (if I use their actual side bar.) Going down in bar size compared to the weights I'm using now what do you think I should look at starting at for weight on this new set up? Thanks.


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## carlosii (Feb 25, 2007)

i understand there are alternatives to using the b stinger weights. someone, somewhere suggested "fender washers" that they said weighed .5 oz. not sure where one might get fender washers...maybe off the neighbor's pickup? or were they talking about washers off a fender guitar?


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## shamus275 (Oct 10, 2010)

carlosii said:


> i understand there are alternatives to using the b stinger weights. someone, somewhere suggested "fender washers" that they said weighed .5 oz. not sure where one might get fender washers...maybe off the neighbor's pickup? or were they talking about washers off a fender guitar?


You can get "fender washers" at Lowe's, Home Depot, etc in the nuts and bolt aisle.


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## carlosii (Feb 25, 2007)

thanks shamus.


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## Frederick D. Be (Mar 3, 2009)

BrownDog2 said:


> Formula is as follows:
> 
> length of front bar * weight on front bar = "X"
> 
> ...


BD,
Never knew there was an actual formula for this but it is darn close to what I have as the end result as compared to the actual weights. Excellent thread for all those using stabs. Thanks for posting. Cheers!
Fred


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