# Tuning quiz. Making a quick reference chart.



## KYShooter (Jun 23, 2004)

Im doing a little quick reference chart for tuning. I thought it would help out after being drafted to help out with 4-H shooting sports. My actual certification is in rifle, but I think they are going to push me toward archery. Feel free to add to/take away from, and or correct my questions. Lets see who has the archery knowledge (and is bored enough) to fill in the blanks (and thus help me out too):

1. If I move my rest left, my point of impact moves ____________.
2. If I move my rest right, my point of impact moves ____________.
3. If I move my rest up, my point of impact moves ____________.
4. If I move my rest down, my point of impact moves _____________.
5. To correct a left paper tear, I move my rest to the ___________.
6. To correct a right paper tear, I move my rest to the _____________.
7. To correct a high paper tear, I move my rest _____________.
8. To correct a low paper tear, I move my rest ______________.
9. Taking a turn off my top limb bolt moves my nocking point ________.
10. Taking a turn off my bottom limb bolt moves my nocking point ________.
11. Putting a turn on my top limb bolt moves my nocking point ________.
12. Putting a turn on my bottom limb bolt moves my nocking point ________.
13. Removing a twist from my string ________________________________.
14. Adding a twist to my string ___________________________________.
15. Removing a twist from my cable ________________________________.
16. Adding a twist to my cable ___________________________________.
17. If I raise my peep, I will need to _________ my sights.
18. If I lower my peep, I will need to _________ my sights.
19. If my broadheads are impacting to the right of my field points, I should move my rest ___________.
20. If my broadheads are impacting to the left of my field points, I should move my rest ___________.
21. If my broadheads are impacting above my field points, I should move my rest ___________.
22. If my broadheads are impacting below my field points, I should move my rest ___________.


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## mo_bowhunter (Jan 18, 2005)

im bored 

1. If I move my rest left, my point of impact moves ___left_________.
2. If I move my rest right, my point of impact moves ______right______.
3. If I move my rest up, my point of impact moves ____up________.
4. If I move my rest down, my point of impact moves _____down________.
5. To correct a left paper tear, I move my rest to the ____left_______.
6. To correct a right paper tear, I move my rest to the _____right________.
7. To correct a high paper tear, I move my rest _____down________.
8. To correct a low paper tear, I move my rest ______up________.
9. Taking a turn off my top limb bolt moves my nocking point ___down_____.
10. Taking a turn off my bottom limb bolt moves my nocking point __up______.
11. Putting a turn on my top limb bolt moves my nocking point ___up_____.
12. Putting a turn on my bottom limb bolt moves my nocking point ___down_____.
13. Removing a twist from my string ____increase A-A, lower brace____________________________.
14. Adding a twist to my string ___________lower A-A, lower brace________________________.
15. Removing a twist from my cable ________decrease A-A increase brace________________________.
16. Adding a twist to my cable _______increas A-A decrease brace____________________________.
17. If I raise my peep, I will need to _________ my sights.
18. If I lower my peep, I will need to _________ my sights.
19. If my broadheads are impacting to the right of my field points, I should move my rest ___________.
20. If my broadheads are impacting to the left of my field points, I should move my rest ___________.
21. If my broadheads are impacting above my field points, I should move my rest ___________.
22. If my broadheads are impacting below my field points, I should move my rest ___________.
__________________


New to tuning my own bow anxious to see if I'm right.

Woops forgot some but I actually am wondering about the peep movement...I just made a fairly major peep adjustment and can't get enough elevation out of my sight.


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## Matty-NJ (Dec 5, 2003)

I left the all the answers because they were correct, and added to the ones that werent entirely "complete"


1. If I move my rest left, my point of impact moves ___left_________.
2. If I move my rest right, my point of impact moves ______right______.
3. If I move my rest up, my point of impact moves ____up________.
4. If I move my rest down, my point of impact moves _____down________.
5. To correct a left paper tear, I move my rest to the ____left_______.
6. To correct a right paper tear, I move my rest to the _____right________.
7. To correct a high paper tear, I move my rest _____down________.
8. To correct a low paper tear, I move my rest ______up________.
9. Taking a turn off my top limb bolt moves my nocking point ___down_____.
10. Taking a turn off my bottom limb bolt moves my nocking point __up______.

11. Putting a turn on my top limb bolt moves my nocking point ___up(use Quarter turns or less, it doesnt take much)_____.

12. Putting a turn on my bottom limb bolt moves my nocking point ___down (use quarter turns or less, it doesnt take much)_____.

13. Removing a twist from my string ____increase A-A, lower brace & lengthens draw/increases poundage (depends on how many twists)____________________________.

14. Adding a twist to my string ___________lower A-A, lower brace& shortens draw/decreases poundage________________________.

15. Removing a twist from my cable ________decrease A-A increase brace(it also does other stuff depending on the type of cam too much to get into here though)________________________.

16. Adding a twist to my cable _______increas A-A decrease brace(it also does other stuff depending upon the type of cam)____________________________.

17. If I raise my peep, I will need to __raise_______ my sights.

18. If I lower my peep, I will need to __lower_______ my sights.

19. If my broadheads are impacting to the right of my field points, I should move my rest ____left__(tiny increments)_____.

20. If my broadheads are impacting to the left of my field points, I should move my rest ____right__(tiny increments)_____.

21. If my broadheads are impacting above my field points, I should move my rest _____down__(tiny increments)____.

22. If my broadheads are impacting below my field points, I should move my rest ____up___(you guessed it, tiny increments)____.

Have a good one---Matt


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## yelk hunter (Feb 18, 2004)

Quote:

7. To correct a high paper tear, I move my rest _____down________.
8. To correct a low paper tear, I move my rest ______up________.

I disagree> these are the movements for the nocking point, not the rest.

I have found:
7. To correct a high paper tear, I move my REST _____UP________.
8. To correct a low paper tear, I move my REST ______DOWN________.

High tear = tail up, to level arrow, rest up. Ect.

Anyone else comment to deny or confirm????


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## Matty-NJ (Dec 5, 2003)

Yes, you're right.

If the tail end is high, the rest needs to come up.

If the tail end is low, the rest needs to go down.

Either I had a brain fart or I mis-read it.....


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## yelk hunter (Feb 18, 2004)

Thanks - my oldhimer's had me wondering - but at least I was happy


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## KYShooter (Jun 23, 2004)

Thanks fellas. Its been too cold to shoot much, so Ive been learning how to use excel and putting a book together to keep up with practice sessions, averages of NFAA, Vegas, 3d, all that kind of stuff.


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## KYShooter (Jun 23, 2004)

One more question...what effect does twisting/untwisting cables have on draw weight?


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## eugene1e® (Sep 24, 2005)

Bump


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## Matty-NJ (Dec 5, 2003)

KYShooter said:


> One more question...what effect does twisting/untwisting cables have on draw weight?



2 cam (wheel) bows :

Twisting both cables will increase draw weight & draw length.

Twisting one cable can fix synchronization.

Un-twisting both cables will decrease draw weight & shorten draw length.


Solo Cam bows:

Untwisting the buss cable (yoke) will decrease draw weight & shorten draw length.

Twisting the cable will increase draw weight and length. (there looks to be another "cable" on solo cam bows, but this is basically part of the string, whether it is one piece with the string or separate, it has the same effects the string does when twisted or untwisted)

Hybrid Cam:

Twisting the control cable will decrease draw length and draw weight.
Untwisting the control cable will increase draw length and weight.

Twisting the yoke (buss) cable will increase draw length and draw weight.
Untwisting the yoke cable will decrease draw length and weight.

Hope this helps. Have a good one---Matt


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## kpsingleton (Feb 26, 2006)

Great thread! Thanks for all the info fellas. I am in the works of putting together a "tuning" binder and this will have a nice spot in there.


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## A Mess (May 21, 2005)

I believe both answers for 5 and 6 are incorrect. The Easton's tuning guide says for archers using a mechanical release, for a left tear you move the rest to the RIGHT. For a right tear, you move it LEFT.


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## pblawler (Apr 7, 2005)

A Mess said:


> I believe both answers for 5 and 6 are incorrect. The Easton's tuning guide says for archers using a mechanical release, for a left tear you move the rest to the RIGHT. For a right tear, you move it LEFT.



Thats correct:

http://www.lawleroutdoors.com/Artic... Tuning&Call=Hunting/Hunting.asp?Game=Archery


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## yelk hunter (Feb 18, 2004)

A Mess and PB - what?

I did not pull up Easton but - left tear indicates arrow with point too far right (or tail to the left). How do I get the point to the left (or the tail relative to the right)?

move REST LEFT so tip/tail line up with string.

At least that's what worked for me before I gave up paper for walkback.


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## A Mess (May 21, 2005)

Afraid I'm not smart enough to figure it out on my own. I'm gonna have to defer to Easton on this one. I'm going to go out on a limb and assume that they have it right.


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## Matty-NJ (Dec 5, 2003)

I respectfully disagree with the easton guide on this one. 

Though, it would depend on your rest. If you shoot a drop away, the rest is only in contact with the shaft for a short distance. So if the arrow is leaving point right, you need to get move the rest left to get the point in line with the nock end. However, if you're shooing something like a whisker biscuit, I could see how you might have to move the rest right to get the tail end to follow, since its the last part of the arrow effected by the rest.

Left/Right tears usually indicate spine problems with release shooters. So adjusting the rest may be futile.

Again, another factor is how far from the paper you are. Tears CAN change at different distances. So there is no set right and wrong. Follow the tuning guide, and if the tear gets worse, go the opposite way. Most importantly, make all adjustments very small, and keep everything written down.

All this being said, Im not a fan of paper tuning, seems like a lot of work for nothing. Walkback tuning is much more productive in my eyes. 

Of course tuning your mind and body to shoot perfectly is the most important aspect of archery.

Have a good one---Matt


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

*#s 14, 15, 16*

Does anyone disagree with the answeres above? 
Would I be correct if it said: 
(14) adding twists to the string will decrease ATA and increase BH
(15) removing twist from the cable will add ATA and decrease BH
(16) adding twists to the cable will decrease ATA and increase BH
This are on my single cam, are twins or hybrids different?


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## pblawler (Apr 7, 2005)

yelk hunter said:


> A Mess and PB - what?
> 
> I did not pull up Easton but - left tear indicates arrow with point too far right (or tail to the left). How do I get the point to the left (or the tail relative to the right)?
> 
> ...



No sir, tale left tear indicates the point is left of the nock and the rear of the arrow is swinging left to follow the center of gravity (i.e. the front of the arrow) and in doing so it is over shooting do to the speed. Seen it thousands of times. Same reason FOC has to be positive, if it was negative the arrow would actually do a 180 in flight.


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## dunk50 (Dec 7, 2003)

*Hoorah*

This is an absolutely great thread / idea. When / if you get a chart actually made, I WANT ONE. 

TTT for us rookies!!!


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## dunk50 (Dec 7, 2003)

*Just observed that this was an old thread*

Matty-NJ tells what effect twisting / untwinsting cable and string and there effect on brace height and AtoA. Did anyone ever state, for a rookie like me what you do to correct or offset what you do. i.e. I want to untwist my yoke to lower weight and draw length. That will change my cam timing. I assume there is a corrective action to offset this and put cam back in time. Untwist one, twist the other or what. Anybody???????


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## Dodgedude (Jan 29, 2005)

*Getting smarter*

The more I learn, the dumber I get it seems.

TTT and one of these for me:darkbeer:


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## Matty-NJ (Dec 5, 2003)

dunk50 said:


> Matty-NJ tells what effect twisting / untwinsting cable and string and there effect on brace height and AtoA. Did anyone ever state, for a rookie like me what you do to correct or offset what you do. i.e. I want to untwist my yoke to lower weight and draw length. That will change my cam timing. I assume there is a corrective action to offset this and put cam back in time. Untwist one, twist the other or what. Anybody???????


Dunk, I tried to add a little bit of info for you...


2 cam (wheel) bows :

Twisting both cables will increase draw weight & draw length. This also shortens the A2A and lengthens the BH.

Twisting one cable can fix synchronization. (or twist one a half turn, and untwist the other a half turn) (IMO creep tuning is the best method to find optimal cam timing and synch)

Un-twisting both cables will decrease draw weight & shorten draw length. A2A will be longer and BH will be shorter.



Solo Cam bows:

Untwisting the buss cable (yoke) will decrease draw weight & shorten draw length. A2A will increase and BH will decrease.

Twisting the cable will increase draw weight and length. (there looks to be another "cable" on solo cam bows, but this is basically part of the string, whether it is one piece with the string or separate, it has the same effects the string does when twisted or untwisted) A2A will decrease and BH will increase.

Hybrid Cam:

(this cable connects the cams and adjustments are not as large as adjustments made using the yoke/buss cable) Twisting the control cable will decrease draw length and draw weight.
Untwisting the control cable will increase draw length and weight.

Anything you do to the Yoke Buss cable will result in more adjustment than the control cable. Twisting the yoke (buss) cable will increase draw length and draw weight. A2A will decrease and BH will increase.
Untwisting the yoke cable will decrease draw length and weight. A2A will increase and BH will decrease.

Dunk, I tried to add a little more info to this for you. I'll also TRY to answer your question, but to write out every possible option, reaction would take me too long.
Simply remember that anything you do to a bow has an action and a reaction. If you adjust something, something else will move or change. You have to balance these adjustments out to tune for proper cam timing and or synchronization. If you put all your twists in the yoke cable on your bow, you will throw the specs way off. Use both cables to adjust, allowing you to remain closer to specs (or within spec). You can also use the bowstring to micro adjust for draw length, but recheck the specs after twisting or untwisting. Like I said, simply balance it out.

This is the way I prefer to tune a bow:
Set the bow to specs. (axle to axle, brace height, measured at the manufacturers recommended settings)
Next set the bow to you. (adjust draw length till it fits perfectly, find a good draw weight that you can draw smoothly and hold steadily)

Next you can creep tune the bow for optimimum performance/forgiveness. (different cams require different types of creep tuning) Basically you're making the bow forgiving of your minute draw length mistakes by exagerating them while shooting at a horizontal line. You want all arrows impacting on a level plane whether the bow is creeped forward or drawn hard into the wall) (there are plenty of people that are more qualified than I that have gone over this, you should do a search if you;re interested in creep tuning) 

Next write down ALL the specs and keep them somewhere safe. (some specs may be slightly off after all the above adjustments, but in my opinion, that doesnt matter) The bow has been made to work for YOU. (the specs should be relatively close to the manufacturers specs though)

Now you can use your favorite method of tuning. (paper tuning, walk back tuning, group tuning, etc,)
Write down any adjustments you made to your rest, nocking point/loop, etc.

All this being said, I think that the archer should put the most emphasis on him or herself's shooting ability. Even an untuned bow will put arrows in the same hole. The person holding the bow is the one who has the biggest effect on accuracy/consistency. So remember to "tune" your mind and body to shoot well too.

Have a good one---Matt

*disclaimer, there are plenty of people on this board that know more about archery than I ever will. If they should find something I said that is incorrect, hopefully they will correct me. I dont want to give out bad advice, so I try to make sure what I say is accurate, but Im not perfect....


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## pblawler (Apr 7, 2005)

dunk50 said:


> Matty-NJ tells what effect twisting / untwinsting cable and string and there effect on brace height and AtoA. Did anyone ever state, for a rookie like me what you do to correct or offset what you do. i.e. I want to untwist my yoke to lower weight and draw length. That will change my cam timing. I assume there is a corrective action to offset this and put cam back in time. Untwist one, twist the other or what. Anybody???????


The following is for tuning any bow and setting a single cam to spec although the cam reaction to cable and string twists will be the same for a hybrid but the spec cam orientation marks/indicators will be different.

http://www.lawleroutdoors.com/Artic... Tuning&Call=Hunting/Hunting.asp?Game=Archery


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## mwaym (Dec 21, 2005)

How about binarys ??????:darkbeer:


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## kzz1king (Jan 21, 2007)

Let me know if I am reading this right. On a single cam you can shorten AtoA and increase BH by either twisting the cable or the string?

If so would it normally be the string that had stretched and caused the change verses the shorter cable?
Thanks


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## mwaym (Dec 21, 2005)

Binary rules ????? please ????


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## Campo (Sep 20, 2006)

Interesting quiz here...Ill have to print it out and take it myself!


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## Peanuts (Mar 31, 2006)

do the answers hold true if you're a lefty?


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