# Dremel arrow cut off jig



## julle (Mar 1, 2009)

I made one to a while ago, I used the extension kit, I never use it so now it gets a good use.
for everyone thats reading this, what do you guys think is the best cut off wheel you could fix on a dremel?


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## paheadhunter (Apr 12, 2011)

maybe it just me or the angle of the picture, but your notch up front looks cocked?


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## adhcountry (Dec 9, 2010)

it was the prototype I'm going to finish it with an aluminum track. However it works great like it is. The blade is a metal cutting blade.


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## Fresno Dan (Dec 9, 2010)

Ok I understand that it cuts great, but it does look a little cocked, and that scares me for the shaft being cut square. I know every time one of these threads come along everyone asks about SQUARE. Well that is because it is VITAL, I bought a Dremel at Home Depot about 3 weeks ago, and still have not opened the box, because I cant find a thread that makes me comfortable with how square the cut is being. Thanks, the setup looks nice though.


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## WisDeerHunter (Apr 16, 2011)

I was going to build the same thing...using the flex extension that I never use. My plan is to only cut the surface of the arrow and rotate the arrow around to cut. That way it will be square when finished. If course I will try to get everything as square as possible, but rotating will help. Same idea as a lathe - hold the cutting edge solid and rotate the work piece. I plan on using the fiberglass cutoff wheels for the dremel - they work great for cutting and will rip right through the aluminum arrow.


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## adhcountry (Dec 9, 2010)

Fresno Dan said:


> Ok I understand that it cuts great, but it does look a little cocked, and that scares me for the shaft being cut square. I know every time one of these threads come along everyone asks about SQUARE. Well that is because it is VITAL, I bought a Dremel at Home Depot about 3 weeks ago, and still have not opened the box, because I cant find a thread that makes me comfortable with how square the cut is being. Thanks, the setup looks nice though.


just as wisdeerhunter said......rotate the shaft and its a true cut.


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## dleask123 (Jun 7, 2010)

adhcountry said:


> just as wisdeerhunter said......rotate the shaft and its a true cut.


or finish it off with an ASD...


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## Fresno Dan (Dec 9, 2010)

dleask123 said:


> or finish it off with an ASD...


Yeah I was looking at those today. I dont know if I want to spend $40 for a ASD, I might only cut 12-18 shafts a year if that. Those might be for the wife, mine I am thinking I might shoot my VAP's an extra 3/4" long, just so I dont have to cut them. That 3/4" is a B**ch to cut off (might not be worth it).


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## EnglishKev (Aug 8, 2009)

Fresno Dan said:


> Yeah I was looking at those today. I dont know if I want to spend $40 for a ASD, I might only cut 12-18 shafts a year if that. Those might be for the wife, mine I am thinking I might shoot my VAP's an extra 3/4" long, just so I dont have to cut them. That 3/4" is a B**ch to cut off (might not be worth it).


ASD is also good for truing up inserts if required for shooting broadheads.
Also, can you guarantee your VAP shafts are dead square as you buy them?
Just a thought, but it might be worth trueing the ends up before assembling even if you don't cut them.

Kev


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## Irish Sitka (Jul 2, 2009)

Can you show me a close up of the attachment you use to put the cutting disk on the dremel please.
I bought the dremel and cannot see anything to attach the disk with.
It came cheap as it had sat on a shelf in the shop for a few years.
Other attachments were missing as well.


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## adhcountry (Dec 9, 2010)

Irish Sitka said:


> Can you show me a close up of the attachment you use to put the cutting disk on the dremel please.
> I bought the dremel and cannot see anything to attach the disk with.
> It came cheap as it had sat on a shelf in the shop for a few years.
> Other attachments were missing as well.


Its the quick change adapter. Once you install it the blades just ; 1. push 2. twist 3. release and there locked.
I'll post a picture in a little while.


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## Irish Sitka (Jul 2, 2009)

"Its the quick change adapter. Once you install it the blades just ; 1. push 2. twist 3. release and there locked.
I'll post a picture in a little while."

Thanks for the help.


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## super* (Jan 26, 2008)

good idea but I dont think I would use it to cut my personal arrows


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## EnglishKev (Aug 8, 2009)

super* said:


> good idea but I dont think I would use it to cut my personal arrows


I have a similar set up, but without the V block.
Rotating the shaft as you cut and then using an ASD gives as good if not better finish than arrows cut in a pro shop.
It is a slower process, but hey, how many arrows are you going to cut for personal use in a year?

I kinda like the idea of the V block though, I will have to look at something similar for mine.

Kev


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## WisDeerHunter (Apr 16, 2011)

Agreed...this is not a production rig. This is more for a few dozen arrows a year for personal use. A little extra time per arrow more than makes up for the $$$ saved on a production arrow saw. Even when watching the production rigs - they still need to be trued up when they are cut. I want to make something so I can cut arrows I puck up for a bargain for my son as his draw length changes.


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## julle (Mar 1, 2009)

I have this weird problem that my cut of disks don't sit straight on the shank, no matter what I do they never sit straight , has anyone else noticed this problem...?


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