# Whats your process?



## bowhnter7 (Dec 6, 2004)

Whats your process for setting up your new field arrows? Lets say you checked your software, ordered your shafts based on that imformation.........now what's your steps to get your final arrow length and point weight?


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## DHawk2 (Feb 18, 2007)

For me I entered different lengths and point weights into the computer to find the optimum spine. I shoot 28.5" draw at 54lbs which came out to 27" arrow(shaft only) with 100gr point in the Easton ACC 3-28's. That puts me right in the middle for spine on that program. I wanted the heavier point for better down range flight.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## bowhnter7 (Dec 6, 2004)

DHawk2 said:


> For me I entered different lengths and point weights into the computer to find the optimum spine. I shoot 28.5" draw at 54lbs which came out to 27" arrow(shaft only) with 100gr point in the Easton ACC 3-28's. That puts me right in the middle for spine on that program. I wanted the heavier point for better down range flight.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


So your say'n you just used the software #'s and that's it? 



I wanna know what people do after the software.....maybe nobody does anything else? No bareshaft, no super tune, no group tune, no testing of point weights and shaft lengths? No way of checking that your have the right spine?

What do you do after the ware to check to see if you have the right arrow combo?


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## DHawk2 (Feb 18, 2007)

I will shoot them and see how they group for me. I just want to have a good idea of where to start. I looked at Eastons chart first, then put the numbers in the computer to get a little more accurate and now I will go outside and shoot them. I have only cut half of them just i case they aren't flying right I still have 6 that I can make longer if it will help.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

bowhnter7 said:


> So your say'n you just used the software #'s and that's it?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


For the most part yes.....I may shoot a buddies shafts that are different spine to see before I buy though.


But your original question and the above statement/question are two different topics in my eyes.

Bare shaft tuning is the only thing that I consider a tool in spine selection....the rest I can get from OT2. I know the program for ME so I don't really need to do too much playing really.

I don't bare shaft tune....never have more then a couple arrows here or there....never will. 

I don't play with shaft length at all really....why because I use the program for that. I make my selection based on the shaft length to a point. I usually shoot arrows in the 26.5-27" range. If I have to go longer then I will choose a different spine to begin with.

I play with point weight once in a while when I first get shafts. 

As for "super tuning" arrows....I assume you are talking about nock indexing etc...that's normal setup. I will spend however much time I need getting all of the arrows to shoot together. Group tuning I do....but that has nothing to do with spine selection. That is Hornet and bow tuning :wink:

Just look at the range of shafts guys shoot at similar specs lb and draw wise.....you don't need to be that picky. IMO.

Too many people spend too much time tuning and tweaking....

So basiclly...setting up a new set of arrows. If the bow is setup :wink:

I shoot it through paper...get a decent tear. Go to 20 yds get a mark....make sure all the arrows are hitting together....rotating nocks.

Then go to 40 get a mark....then go straight to 60 and group tune. I may have some shafts that have say 100 grain points and some with 110s or 110s and 120s. But that's about it.


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## bowhnter7 (Dec 6, 2004)

I agree with ya BH. 

So I do pretty much the same. I always seem to have a bare shaft to check and see though and it's always really close. Sooo I get my new X10's in and cut 3 to the length my ware says, pop in the 110 point. I got a great hole right away, got a mark at 20 and stepped back to 45 (all I got in the back yard right now) and left and right was perfect no need for any rest tweeks. I thought I would send the bare shaft down to "just" see. I stepped back to 20 and shot. The bare shaft hit about 4 to 5" right! Tried again and agian same hole. I have never been that far off before and it got me freaked I am too weak now. So it got me thinking about what some people do to test their shafts?

28.5 55# VE with Spirals 27 1/4 470 Protour with 110 point.

I can't get em any shorter, I will try to lower the pounds to see what it does but I really didn't want to go much lower than 55. I guess I might have to just fletch em all up and let em eat or order another:mg: doz of 420's.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

bowhnter7 said:


> I agree with ya BH.
> 
> So I do pretty much the same. I always seem to have a bare shaft to check and see though and it's always really close. Sooo I get my new X10's in and cut 3 to the length my ware says, pop in the 110 point. I got a great hole right away, got a mark at 20 and stepped back to 45 (all I got in the back yard right now) and left and right was perfect no need for any rest tweeks. I thought I would send the bare shaft down to "just" see. I stepped back to 20 and shot. The bare shaft hit about 4 to 5" right! Tried again and agian same hole. I have never been that far off before and it got me freaked I am too weak now. So it got me thinking about what some people do to test their shafts?
> 
> ...


I would say that you aren't weak. Maybe a TOUCH but I wouldn't worry about it. Not until I shot them at 60yds with vanes and see how they group first. You don't shoot a round without vanes so who really cares :wink:

Don't over think it......or worry about it. 

Fletch them and shoot them. I used to shoot 3-28s with 100s on 60 and those from my PT with spirals....they are weak also. But they pounded also :wink:

Forget about all the mumbo jumbo....how do they group?


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## bowhnter7 (Dec 6, 2004)

Brown Hornet said:


> I would say that you aren't weak. Maybe a TOUCH but I wouldn't worry about it. Not until I shot them at 60yds with vanes and see how they group first. You don't shoot a round without vanes so who really cares :wink:
> 
> Don't over think it......or worry about it.
> 
> ...


Yeah Desertrat told me the same thing. 

I need to shoot em some more to see, was just afraid to cut more than three for now, plus it freaking snowed here again today so I am stuck inside. I ran the numbers again and these things couldn't paint more perfectly for my set-up. I am gonna cut 3 more and just shoot em and see, they gotta be good.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

bowhnter7 said:


> Yeah Desertrat told me the same thing.
> 
> I need to shoot em some more to see, was just afraid to cut more than three for now, plus it freaking snowed here again today so I am stuck inside. I ran the numbers again and these things couldn't paint more perfectly for my set-up. I am gonna cut 3 more and just shoot em and see, they gotta be good.


Don't worry about it....just fletch em' and shoot em'.

heck it could be something in your actual bow setup. 

I couldn't get rid of a left tear with my 530s...yes I am shooting 530s now on more lbs then I was shooting the 490s last summer.

Tore the bow down and started over....first arrow in paper....Perfect nock high left


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## bowhnter7 (Dec 6, 2004)

Brown Hornet said:


> heck it could be something in your actual bow setup.


It could be?

It's a generic set up. I tore off the nock point from my indoor set up and put on a new one and changed out to the 5/32 tuner blade. Turned up the #'s to 55 and shot through paper. The fletched shaft AND bare shaft look almost perfect through paper.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

bowhnter7 said:


> It could be?
> 
> It's a generic set up. I tore off the nock point from my indoor set up and put on a new one and changed out to the 5/32 tuner blade. Turned up the #'s to 55 and shot through paper. The fletched shaft AND bare shaft look almost perfect through paper.


Then it's time to go spend some time at distance group tuning....fletch them up and let them eat :wink:


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

I think this one will get some action in a bit :wink:


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## jarlicker (Jul 29, 2002)

Why do you get all jack up over results from a bare shaft test. Do the arrows group up close and down range. Do you get a definate patern to your groups.

Oh ya did you add the weight of your fletching with black tape on back of your bare shaft before testing. Adding weight to the tail end of the arrow will stiffen it up. That could be why it seems to fly weak with no fletching.

I think your shafts should work with that arrow length.
Just shoot them and find out.
Stop doing bare shft tests. They mean nothing in the end.


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## bowhnter7 (Dec 6, 2004)

jarlicker said:


> Why do you get all jack up over results from a bare shaft test. Do the arrows group up close and down range. Do you get a definate patern to your groups.
> 
> Oh ya did you add the weight of your fletching with black tape on back of your bare shaft before testing. Adding weight to the tail end of the arrow will stiffen it up. That could be why it seems to fly weak with no fletching.
> 
> ...


I don't use any one "test" as my ulitmate deciding factor. I was "suprised" to see the bare shaft that far out as I have not before in my series of "test" in the process of gettting new outdoor arrows ready. Grouping at 20 and then again at maybe 60 or 80 are important. Yes I have a pattern.

I fletched all the arrows, took one and cut the fletches off leaving the bases for simulated weight on the back end.

I think the shafts will work too, another "test" is in the works to un-earth the potential problem (BrownH:wink.

The bare shaft may end up meaning something after all.

The question was "What's *your* process" Curious to see how folks get new shafts ready, lot's of people doing all kinds of different things. Especially with how expensive some of these outdoor arrows get to be.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

bowhnter7 said:


> The question was "What's *your* process" Curious to see how folks get new shafts ready, lot's of people doing all kinds of different things. Especially with how expensive some of these outdoor arrows get to be.


Fletch.em....turn the nocks until they hit the same and shoot


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## bowhnter7 (Dec 6, 2004)

Brown Hornet said:


> Fletch.em....turn the nocks until they hit the same and shoot


BYW............your were right about the yoke. 5 even twist and bamm............3 slit hole, single hole, and bs hits the same place now.

I am happy.

Thanks again.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

bowhnter7 said:


> BYW............your were right about the yoke. 5 even twist and bamm............3 slit hole, single hole, and bs hits the same place now.
> 
> I am happy.
> 
> Thanks again.


Glad I could help 

I know it can get frustrating at times....most of the time I just put the bow down for a couple days and then start over....or hand it to Nino and say fix it when I get frustrated with something 

He does the same thing...he will call me and say come shoot this bow I am tired of it...it's good to have someone else to think about the problem. I know I tend to look past simple things when it's my stuff...because I HATE working on my bows 

Now go shoot the crap out of that setup


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