# Arrows lean left in target



## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Welcome to AT.

It is not uncommon for a target to kick arrows one way or another. If it is a new foam target you may get a few hints for tuning. Your arrows may be weak? Probably better to try bare shaft tuning.

For tuning (always tuning...it is a process...like security):
http://veraxservice.net/arch/tune.html


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## handirifle (Jun 9, 2005)

Just lean the target to the right:wink:


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## Dave V (Aug 13, 2008)

400 is probably too stiff for 45 lbs. 500 might be better. You just said "left" which doesn't really help without a point of reference. Tip left or nock left? Each "left" would have a different reason for being.


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## Bill 2311 (Jun 24, 2005)

My friend has one in 40# and shoots 1916 or 2016 arrows out of it. If you have good form and release, a bare shaft at 15 yards will tell you a lot. Normally moving the rest even a small amount causes arrows to act differently. Not sure how you are moving the rest to the right. Should be a think strike plate on the window now. Are you shooting an elevated rest of some kind? Perhaps the arrows are striking the plate with the rear end of the shaft and causing them to fly tail to the left....


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## MGF (Oct 27, 2012)

I think a 30" 400 is going to be too stiff for a 45# bow. I shoot full length, or nearly full length (depending on how long they come) .500's out of my 42# Omega. I was shooting the same arrows off my 45# PSE stalker.


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## goofyfoot2001 (Aug 1, 2014)

I looked for 500's the other day but couldn't find any. I don't think it's the arrow since I'm shooting 4 different kinds including aluminum with the exact same result and exact same angle (the nock to the left). Even if I turn the target with the foam layers vertical it's the same, so it shouldn't be the target either. Is there any mechanical way to find the center point of the arrow rest to the string? It is an elevated rest with the two brushes to hold the shaft to the rest.


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

goofyfoot2001 said:


> My shots are fairly accurate at 20 yards or so but they all are in the target at the same angle to the left. I started with 30" aluminum and read i shouldvtry something stiffer. Did 30" carbon and they were better but still left. Spine is 400. Bow is samick sage 45#.
> *I've moved the rest left and right a bit but not sure if that helps.* This is driving me batty





goofyfoot2001 said:


> I looked for 500's the other day but couldn't find any. I don't think it's the arrow since I'm shooting 4 different kinds including aluminum with the exact same result and exact same angle (the nock to the left). Even if I turn the target with the foam layers vertical it's the same, so it shouldn't be the target either. Is there any mechanical way to find the center point of the arrow rest to the string? *It is an elevated rest with the two brushes to hold the shaft to the rest.*


Can you post a photo of the rest or give the manufacturer or model number? Is it a flipper and plunger style rest? In general, most rests for compounds are not really applicable to stickbows...just want to know what equipment we are talking about here. 

As far as orienting the arrow relative to the rest and string, anything from a bow square to a carpenters square can be used to get a rough nock position, you could even eye-ball it if you are careful. In most cases a proper orientation of the arrow relative to the rest is with the nock slightly above a line perpendicular to the string and intersecting the point on the rest where the arrow sits. A bow square clips to the string and the bottom edge is adjusted to rest in the same position as the bottom edge of the arrow on the rest. There is no standard on how the "above level" measurement is reported, some reference the top of the nock (bottom or the upper nocking point), some reference the center of the arrow (1/2 arrow diameter below upper nock point), some reference the bottom of the nock...it can be confusing.

Bottom line is you want your arrow slightly above perpendicular to the string, angling down slightly as it sits on the rest. Use a bow square or carpenters square to find the spot where the arrow is perpendicular to the string, then raise the nock end of the arrow 1/4" or so and install your nock point above the nock. This should get you started, but it may not be perfect. Too low a nock point and you risk contact between the arrow and riser, which will definitely mess you up. When in doubt err on the high side, never on the low side.

If you are shooting three under, some find that a second nock point below the nock will eliminate the potential for the nock to slide down the string after release. I use two on the "just in case" principle.

My guess is you are getting contact between the arrow and bow resulting in deflection of the arrow.

These links will tell you a lot about setting up and tuning a bow:

http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html

http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html

My apologies if I have completely misunderstood your situation...it's Sunday morning...:wink:


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## Arrowwood (Nov 16, 2010)

goofyfoot=left-handed archer?


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## goofyfoot2001 (Aug 1, 2014)

Surfer but I'm not goofyfoot. Anyway, I got out ye ole GoPro and looks like the arrows are getting kicked off the rest to the left and hitting the left side of the arrow rest. I moved the rest out left even further and still doing the samething. Moving it out further just really seems odd feeling.

This is the rest 

http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/880x660/Primary/829/829214.jpg


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## Jim Casto Jr (Aug 20, 2002)

After 20 yards virtually any arrow should straighten up. If it's in the target on an angle at 20, it must be the medium.


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

goofyfoot2001 said:


> Surfer but I'm not goofyfoot. Anyway, I got out ye ole GoPro and looks like the arrows are getting kicked off the rest to the left and hitting the left side of the arrow rest. I moved the rest out left even further and still doing the samething. Moving it out further just really seems odd feeling.
> 
> This is the rest
> 
> http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/880x660/Primary/829/829214.jpg


Someone could correct me but I don't think that rest is very appropriate for a recurve. Assuming you are holding and releasing the string with fingers and not a release, there will always be some lateral deflection of the nock end of the arrow. This is desirable in that the oscillation enables the arrow to clear the bow, but a rest like that almost assures arrow contact. Recurves are generally shot off the shelf or with a rest that allows lateral movement.

This bow is set up to shoot off the shelf, just velcro on the shelf and side of riser (random image from the 'net):



This bow is set up with a flipper rest and plunger:



The Bear Weather rest is a simple rest that glues to the side of the riser (http://www.3riversarchery.com/Bear+Weatherest+Elevated+Rest_i3545X_baseitem.html). It's another proven and simple way to set up your bow.

I think the first thing you should do is swap out what you have for a rest similar to one of these. Off the shelf is the simplest, the wire and plunger is probably the best.


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## goofyfoot2001 (Aug 1, 2014)

The reason I liked this rest is because I don't want to deal with arrows falling off a rest. I'll try a different rest but I find it hard to believe that I can't get an arrow to come off this rest straight. Especially if they are hitting their target as it is.


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Any rest "structure" outside (outside = away from the riser) the centerline of the arrow can cause serious contact issues for a finger shooter. Most wire rest extend just a little outside centerline, yet very low which is ok.

Other possible rests for finger shooters, NAP Center Rest and Bodoodle Timberdoodle II Arrow Rest.


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

goofyfoot2001 said:


> The reason I liked this rest is because I don't want to deal with arrows falling off a rest. I'll try a different rest but I find it hard to believe that I can't get an arrow to come off this rest straight. Especially if they are hitting their target as it is.


I understand your concern but drawing and holding without the arrow falling off is one lesson that needs to be learned. It's easy and pretty soon you won't even think about it. A rest like wseward describes is what you need. 

Check out this video, you can see with the deflection the arrow goes through it's going to be tough if not impossible to eliminate contact with a rest like you have now. 

You should also be shooting _feathers_ on your arrows, not plastic vanes. I know the question didn't come up but people starting out often buy arrows with vanes since they are most common at shops. Feathers are much more forgiving of any contact between the arrow and bow.


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Just in case you did not believe the vid above, view the top one on the right side of the page here...

http://www.wernerbeiter.com/de/informationen/videoclips.php


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Easykeeper, that is a great vid. Talk about a solid bow hand/arm! Saved that vid to my hard drive...thanx.

The other thing that may be contributing to the issue of angle left may be torque? Bow torque or string torque will cause fletch contact. May want to try feathers until you are sure your form and rest are up to vanes?


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## goofyfoot2001 (Aug 1, 2014)

So, I back up 5 more yards. All my arrows are going in straight. I must have been closer than I thought.


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