# Adjusting for center shot



## rambo-yambo (Aug 12, 2008)

i understand that when you adjust for center shot, you adjust the plunger until diameter of the arrow is to the left of thee bowstring for right hand shooters, so the alignment is depended on the length of the arrow. How is this based, at full length of the arrow? If one person uses 30" arrow and the next person uses 26" arrow, is it necessary to re-adjust the center shot? Thanks,


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

Centershot adjustment is just a starting point for tuning.

Unless you are actually doing fine tuning, and for most beginners/intermediates its a set it and forget it setting.

I don't even set centershot on our teaching rigs. On most of our students personal rigs I have them set it and note what it looks like so they can check to make sure it has not moved from session to session but thats about it.


Yes adjust for arrow length and diameter but bare shaft tuning and plunger adjustments will be the final tuning.


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## Seattlepop (Dec 8, 2003)

dchan said:


> Centershot adjustment is just a starting point for tuning.
> 
> Unless you are actually doing fine tuning, and for most beginners/intermediates its a set it and forget it setting.
> 
> ...


Assuming both are ACE for example, does a longer arrow require more or less offset than a shorter arrow?


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## lksseven (Mar 21, 2010)

As dchan said, static centershot is just a starting point (with arrow inside edge touching bowstring outside edge visually in the vertical plane).

But don't forget that True centershot for a setup is the "Dynamic centershot" - the plunger setting at which your specific arrows and your specific bow configuration launch arrows straight out of the bow 'in action'. Your fine tuning is about determining the plunger setting that gives you your best 'dynamic centershot'. And if you have to wander off too far in either direction from your 'static centershot' starting point, then it's very likely you're beating a dead horse and will be much happier if you can get different arrows.


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## rambo-yambo (Aug 12, 2008)

Seattlepop said:


> Assuming both are ACE for example, does a longer arrow require more or less offset than a shorter arrow?


Longer arrow would require less offset to get to the same point.


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## lksseven (Mar 21, 2010)

Seattlepop said:


> Assuming both are ACE for example, does a longer arrow require more or less offset than a shorter arrow?


It depends on several factors. The longer arrow will require less offset (plunger button closer to the riser) in order to have 'static centershot' put the inside edge of the shaft at the outside edge of the string (visually). But, if the longer arrow has a weaker spine in performance, then the correct setting for this arrow might be further away from the riser (to compensate for the weaker dynamic spine).


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## rambo-yambo (Aug 12, 2008)

lksseven said:


> It depends on several factors. The longer arrow will require less offset (plunger button closer to the riser) in order to have 'static centershot' put the inside edge of the shaft at the outside edge of the string (visually). But, if the longer arrow has a weaker spine in performance, then the correct setting for this arrow might be further away from the riser (to compensate for the weaker dynamic spine).


Don't you set the center shot first before fine tuning for spine? That brings up another question - should you set plunger pressure before or after the center shot adjustment?


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## Ranger 50 (Mar 2, 2012)

Google "Tuning for Tens" and your questions will be answered.


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## lksseven (Mar 21, 2010)

rambo-yambo said:


> Don't you set the center shot first before fine tuning for spine? That brings up another question - should you set plunger pressure before or after the center shot adjustment?


What I meant was, if the longer arrows _'on hand'_ have a spine that proves to be (after some intial testing from your centershot starting point and a plunger cushion midrange setting (say, 5.0 to 7.0 on a Beiter with medium spring) is a little bit weak for your bow config (draw weight, draw length, 'your' release dynamic - light, heavy, quick, slow, etc), then you may need to push out the plunger button a bit, to 'make' the arrow shaft act a little stiffer (or trim a bit off the front of the arrow shaft, if you can, until you get to the sweetspot). Or, you can just get a different set of arrows, but $$$ can be (at some point, is!) a constraining factor.

Yes, fine tune with the plunger cushion after you've determined where your centershot should be.

So much of tuning is a question of getting the best _coordination_ of the different components and shooting skills _that are available to you at the time_. If you have an open checkbook and open calendar and limitless enthusiasm and energy, Great! If you have some constraints on some of those caveats, then pushing the envelope a bit on this or that (centershot, plunger, arrow trimming, point weight, brace height, string strands, size/weight of fletching, etc) may be required, and can be a dark art to master.


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## rambo-yambo (Aug 12, 2008)

When I had my TD2 riser, I used a pressure plate to adjust the center shot with a Super Rest. Is there such a thing available for ILF riser? What is the official name? Where can I buy it? Thanks.


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## KenYeoh (Feb 21, 2010)

rambo-yambo said:


> When I had my TD2 riser, I used a pressure plate to adjust the center shot with a Super Rest. Is there such a thing available for ILF riser? What is the official name? Where can I buy it? Thanks.


Plunger, Button, Plunger Button, Beiter Button.
Can buy it anywhere that sells oly recurve archery gear


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## rambo-yambo (Aug 12, 2008)

I want to clarify my question a bit. In order to use a Hoyt Super Rest - I can only adjust the center shot by using either a thin adhesive foam or a thick adhesive foam that comes with the rest. Is there another way to adjust the center shot with Hoyt Super Rest? (By mounting the rest on a plate that can be adjusted left and right so I can have finer adjustment?)


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## chrstphr (Nov 23, 2005)

rambo-yambo said:


> I want to clarify my question a bit. In order to use a Hoyt Super Rest - I can only adjust the center shot by using either a thin adhesive foam or a thick adhesive foam that comes with the rest. Is there another way to adjust the center shot with Hoyt Super Rest? (By mounting the rest on a plate that can be adjusted left and right so I can have finer adjustment?)


Hi, you adjust center shot with the foam stick ons if you are not using a plunger. If you need more adjustment than that, then you have to graduate to a plunger, and use that to adjust centershot with the Hoyt super rest.


Chris


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

thin plastic layered works well or thin wood--wood is a little more difficult to get the proper thickness but will work just as well

there is an adjustable plate (can't find a link right now) that is similar to below, minus the flipper part--just a flat plate that has a threaded rod attached
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/nap-centerest-rh-arrow-rest.html


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## KenYeoh (Feb 21, 2010)

Ooh, sorry, misunderstood your question.


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## rambo-yambo (Aug 12, 2008)

Fury90flier said:


> thin plastic layered works well or thin wood--wood is a little more difficult to get the proper thickness but will work just as well
> 
> there is an adjustable plate (can't find a link right now) that is similar to below, minus the flipper part--just a flat plate that has a threaded rod attached
> http://www.lancasterarchery.com/nap-centerest-rh-arrow-rest.html


If there is one with just a flat plate instead of the flipper, that is exactly what I am looking for. If not, I will probably buy the one above and machine off the flipper (if the plate is larger enough for Super Rest). Thanks.


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## ArtV (Jan 29, 2008)

Don't know where you are located but visit Lancaster Archery or Alternative Sports.


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