# What length Recurve for a 32.5" draw?



## Hightower650 (Jan 6, 2008)

I have been a compound bow shooter for two decades, I have a 20 year old Hoyt and a 2 year old Hoyt that I have killed countless deer with and now I want wooden bows man, both recurve and longbow. 

I grabbed an old vintage Bear Kodiak at a yard sale and cracked the top limb before I got it drawn back to my 32.5" draw length. Maybe it was already damaged or defective, dunno, but now I am on the search for a recurve bow that can handle my draw length...

...but it doesn't stop there - I need long enough arrows to boot of course. I remember my first compound bow ever, and old Bear with a wooden riser and no sight window cutout to allow broadheads to be drawn behind the front of the window - I had to shoot 33.5" aluminum telephone poles for hunting. Now that site windows are relieved for blades, I can shoot 32" arrows. But whatever recurve I end up with, at full draw I will need at least a 33 inch arrow, of not 33.5. Can you even get cedar that long? I have not found them at neither 3-Rivers nor YeOldeArcheryShoppe.

Any help or advise is greatly appreciated. I am also particularly curious about how much the draw weight is gonna stack up at my draw. I shoot 65# peek on my wheel bows, figured I'd start out around 40 with the recurve but since most weights are measured at 28" I am wondering how low I need to go. I'd like to try some out at a pro shop, but the only archery shop within an hour of me only carries a small handful of recurves all of which are common hunting weights.


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## nmubowyer (Feb 7, 2008)

is 32.5 your draw with a wheel bow, cuz you will usually drop two inches when switching to trad, i shoot 29 with a compound and 26 with my recurve


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## Night Wing (Feb 4, 2009)

Not everyone loses draw length when they go from compound bows to trad bows. All of my compound bows had 30" draws. I tried a 29" compound and couldn't get it to my anchor point. The 30" compound bow fit like a glove at my anchor. When I went to trad bows, I didn't lose any draw length. All of my recurves and my lone longbow are marked at 30" at my anchor point which is corner of the mouth for me. 

Since I have a long draw and I don't like finger pinch, my first custom recurve was a 64" Bob Lee take down. After 30 minutes of shooting it, I noticed some finger pinch on my right index finger. I sold that bow and ordered a 66" Blacktail take down recurve. Result, no finger pinch. Loved that bow so much, I ordered a second Blacktail. I also have a 68" hyrid longbow. Go to an archery pro shop and see if they have some long recurves and draw an arrow to your anchor. Then measure it and you'll know what your draw length really is in a trad bow.


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## shamus005 (Jan 24, 2009)

I draw 32 when I shoot upright, but my "normal" draw is 30".

I've shot recurves ranging from 62"-70".

I have a 64" Pearson Cougar that works fine. The shortest bow I have, a 62" Pearson Golden Conqueror ,feels better than the 64" Cougar. It really depends on the design of the bow.

And my 70" Herters target bow is very pleasant to shoot.


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## NDTerminator (Nov 6, 2006)

32.5"? Must cost a fortune in bandaids for the scrapes from dragging your knuckles!:teeth:

But seriously... in a recurve, no less than 62", probably more like 66". Production bows are built to a 28" draw so It's highly likely your 32.5" will cause most all to stack pretty bad. If you get one honked back, it will be on the order of 10# or more than it's draw weight at 28", and after 28" it will be like trying to curl my Explorer.

So being, you might be best to have a custom built to your draw length & draw weight specs. It'll cost more and you might have to wait 6 months to a year for delivery, but you will have a bow that is comfortable & smooth at your sasquatch-like draw length...

Sorry, couldn't resist...


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Hightower -

These days your safest bet is going to be an ILF bow and yes, the longer the better. The nest thing with those is that more are weight adjustable. What that actually does is allow you to change the amount of reflex in the bow to work with your draw length.

While the odds are your stickbow DL will be less than your compound DL, exactly how much is hard to say. Onl yway to find out is to try it on a LIGHT draw check bow.

Regarding draw weights. If you turn out to have near a 32" draw, expect to add about 8# to the marked weight of the bow. That's a big consideration. You really need to be in the mid 30# range AT YOUR DRAW LENGTH, if you want to learn to do more than casual shooting.

As far as arrows, yeah that's an issue. There are enough that are in the 31- 33" range (approximately) to cover you and spine will be dependent on draw/arrow length, so determining that really to be your first order of business. 

Viper1 out.


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## J. Wesbrock (Dec 17, 2003)

I have a 32" draw and have found quite a few non-Fita bows that work exceptionally well. Here's a short list:

62" Chek-Mate Hunter II. (I've owned two of these and one that was 64").
62" Bob Lee takedown recurve.
62" Black Widow takedown recurve (the short riser, PSA I think they now call it?)
62" Quinn takedown recurve. These are a great "bang for the buck."

There are a lot of older, used recurves that work very well too.

62" Root Game-Master (1960's)
The 62" Shakespear recurves are nice too (most were slightly modified Root designs).
Pearson Colt
Wing Gull or 62" Thunderbird

These are short lists, and I'm sure I've forgotten several that I've tried over the years.


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## Hightower650 (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks a million guys, very good info here man, and it will be taken to heart.
I'm gonna buy like a used light weight recurve to get wet with, and if I take a shining like I think I will take a shining then I will begin a long term devotion of funds for custom stuff, as well as look at some of the models listed above by an equally knuckle draggin dude! 
FYI - I'm 6'-8'' tall, shoot a 48"ata Hoyt with fingers at 32.5", and a 35"ata Hoyt with release at 32" with a string loop.

I'm all over ebay right now, with my eye set on an old vintage hoyt medalist that is 70" long and has a 29# draw weight at 28". This sounds right up my sasquatchin ally man..


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## J. Wesbrock (Dec 17, 2003)

Those old Hoyt Medalists were great bows.


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## Hightower650 (Jan 6, 2008)

oops, forgot - what does ILF stand for, 
and what source for 33" cedar arrows, I mean if that is what I end up needing, which is still kinda up the air right now? 
I know I can get carbon or alluminum that look traditional, but would much rather have wood if I can get them long enough...after determining length and spine as recomended.


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## Curve1 (Nov 25, 2009)

I shoot a Quinn Stallion, 64 inches and I draw 28 inches. I can shoot a 60 inch but there's one thing I can say for me personally, is that the length doesn't do anything but _help_ me.
At your draw length...if it turns out to be that long on a recurve, I'd go with atleast a 66 inch. Viper is right [in my opinion], the longer the better.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Hightower -

I'm a big fan of vintage target bows, and have done pretty well on eBay and other places over the years, but in your case you really need to draw THE BOW you plan on buying. With wood bows (almost any natural wood, anywhere in the bow) there's always some variation, that variation can be enough to make a bow uncomfortable or even unshootable in your 6'8" case. It's going to be a gamble any way you look at it. 

An ILF (International Limb Fitting) or more commonly an "Olympic style bow", the limb are adjustable for weight and that in effect makes them adjustable for draw length (or stack point). You may or may not fall in love with it, but it is hte safest route.

For your first "stickbow" that has to be your safest bet. Once you're draw length on this type of bow has been established, then you can start looking for "wood" bows. 

What you want or do is your business, but if shooting is your primary goal, don't worry about arrows that look traditional, worry about ones that will be long enough! Yes, that might be a bigger problem then the bow.

Viper1 out.


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## J. Wesbrock (Dec 17, 2003)

Hightower650 said:


> oops, forgot - what does ILF stand for,
> and what source for 33" cedar arrows, I mean if that is what I end up needing, which is still kinda up the air right now?
> I know I can get carbon or alluminum that look traditional, but would much rather have wood if I can get them long enough...after determining length and spine as recomended.



You're going to have a very difficult, if not impossible, time finding wood shafts longer than 32". Once you taper them for the point, you're down to a 31" arrow. You may also have some problems finding aluminum weak enough, yet long enough for your needs.


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## Hightower650 (Jan 6, 2008)

there was a time when every single compound bow manufacturer in the country made bows with draw lengths out to 32" - and many that went to 33 and 34 inches. My 18 year old Hoyt pro-vantage is adjustable to 33 inches. Nowadays, you are lucky if you can find a 31 incher. Bear, Martin, PSE, just about everbody besides Hoyt, will not accomidate me, they make nothing for me. What the hell happened man, people aren't shrinking. Is 32" that uncommon, really?

there's all these sillies out there, that think you can fit the shooter to the bow by installing longer string loops for the realease aid, instead of fitting the bow to the shooter like it otta be.


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## alanraw (Feb 18, 2005)

Man, have I got the *PERFECT* bow for _you_! If possible, go out and try to find a vintage Damon Howatt Ventura recurve:teeth: Out of all the vintage recurves that can be found, I think that would fit a guy of your stature _perfectly_! Good shooter too, although one of the ones I had in the past stacked a little, but that one would fit you well. You could also look for an old Martin Lynx takedown, but you may want to go with the 66" limbs as compared to the 62".

As JWesbrock mentioned, and I totally agree with him, the Chek-Mate Hunter II is a nice 'curve, and can be gotten in a 64" AMO...the only issue I have with it is the waiting time for it. The Chek-Mate Kings Pawn can also be gotten in a 64" length, and unless I am mistaken, there is one for sale now on tradgang. Good shopping and God Bless!


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## Hightower650 (Jan 6, 2008)

You guys rock man, this has been great info and got me off in the direction I needed steered...

I went to my "local" shop, its almost an hour away but I go there lots to shoot indoor and virtual screen, he had several PSE Heritage bows in stock, they are all 62" and I shot a 30# and 35#, and while the 30# was certainly more compfortable I felt I could definitely feel good with the 35#, especially if it was a longer amo.

Good news is that just as you guys said I am not drawing 32", a 32" arrow was staying outside of the sight window enough for broadhead shooting when achored at the corner of my mouth, so I must only be drawing like maybe around 30.5". So it looks like I won't be able to shoot cedar shafts, but hey man begars can't be choosers.

Check this alanraw - I just bought a Damon Howatt Ventura off eBay for $96, 66"amo, 33#@28", it looks near mint condition in the pics, I cannot wait til it shows up...talk about ironic man.


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## alanraw (Feb 18, 2005)

Hightower650 said:


> You guys rock man, this has been great info and got me off in the direction I needed steered...
> 
> I went to my "local" shop, its almost an hour away but I go there lots to shoot indoor and virtual screen, he had several PSE Heritage bows in stock, they are all 62" and I shot a 30# and 35#, and while the 30# was certainly more compfortable I felt I could definitely feel good with the 35#, especially if it was a longer amo.
> 
> ...


*YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!* Those old Damon Howatt recurves are, in my opinion, without a doubt some of the BEST deals that anyone will ever be able to find as far as traditional bows go. Many of those models from the 1960s are still being shot today---and easily outperforming many of todays offerings, even despite the majority of them not being Fast Flight compatible. I've owned a couple of Venturas in the past and the 66 AMO length fit a guy with my draw length (30") quite well. The only problem with old Damon Howatt bows is that in many cases, they were typically heavier than the marked weight on the bow (usually by about 5# or so), but still---they're some of the best of the best and most 40+ year old Howatts can outdo many of today's hellafied, newfangled sticks. CONGRATS!


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## elk country rp (Sep 5, 2005)

*shooting a 6 foot longbow is addictive*

let me know if you want to try an all wood longbow (~6 feet long). i have a couple longbows in the "finish it later" pile with relatively light draw weights. i noticed that you live in Indiana- lotsa osage growing there. i'd be happy to trade you a bow for some osage. i usually tiller bows to at least 30" since that's my upright DL, so going a little longer is no problem. 

i made an 80" maple backed walnut for a neighboor last summer. he has a very respectable ape index (he's close to your height i think). he was looking for a nice, forgiving beginner bow. this one pulled 38# @ 30", which is a great weight for developing good form. i tillered it to 34" to give it a better overall chance of survival. 

here's a few pics
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1054881315&postcount=79

cheers,
Rob


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