# Broadheads corkscrew.



## mhill (Jul 11, 2011)

Ok i have tried everything i could think of. I paper tuned, I broadhead tuned, spun tested checked my center shot pretty sure there are no fletch contact. My field points do not cork screw at all out to 60 yards. i put in my fixed broad heads and at 20 yards they shoot fine hits the spot same as FP, walk back to 30 my broadhead does a half corkscrew about 5 yards from the target but it hits the spot of my fp. 

What could it be... would wind cause it to corkscrew, i noticed the wind will do it to my FP when i get a good gust. 

set up in my signature, im shooting blazers.


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## mhill (Jul 11, 2011)

ttt


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## mhill (Jul 11, 2011)

any ideas?


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## mhill (Jul 11, 2011)

TTt


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## mhill (Jul 11, 2011)

Anyone?


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## mhill (Jul 11, 2011)

30 views and not one comment? come on help a guy out..... please


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## Nitroboy (Jan 15, 2006)

Are you shooting a helical or just an offset, usually either a hard offset or a 3-4deg helical works best fur broadheads, if your just shooting factory fletched arrows your arrow may not be spinning fast enough to stabilize the fixed blades and when it starts to slow down it's flipping, I dont know just throwing a idea out


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## mhill (Jul 11, 2011)

Nitroboy said:


> Are you shooting a helical or just an offset, usually either a hard offset or a 3-4deg helical works best fur broadheads, if your just shooting factory fletched arrows your arrow may not be spinning fast enough to stabilize the fixed blades and when it starts to slow down it's flipping, I dont know just throwing a idea out


Yup i have a left helical. Thanks for the response.


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## mhill (Jul 11, 2011)

ttt


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## fletchnut (Aug 28, 2012)

havde you tried any other type of broadheads


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## fletchnut (Aug 28, 2012)

also what type of nocks are on the arrows


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## Good Moses (Oct 17, 2008)

mhill, 

This could be several things. Form, idler wheel lean (your bow is a single cam right?), improper rest height, and improper nock height. 

Have you checked the bow for idler wheel lean at full draw? If your idler wheel at full draw is leaning left (\) or right (/) the string will travel across a horizontal plane through the shot cycle, which imparts "tail whip" to the shaft and looks like the tail of the shaft is swinging out during arrow flight. You want your idler wheel to be as close to vertical (|) at full draw as possible. This ensures the string and rest are working together to sent the arrow on a centered trajectory (no side-to-side tail whipping).

Nock height can compound your idler wheel problems. In addition to the horizontal nock travel that a leaning idler wheel will cause, improper nick height will cause vertical nock travel, which can cause porpoising during arrow flight. Have you checked to ensure your arrow shaft is running through the middle of your berger hole(s) and that nock height is just slightly (1/16") higher? When nock height and rest height are properly determined, the arrow will leave your bow on a flat trajectory (no porpoising). 

Last thing, and simplest, make sure you're using proper form at the longer distances. Make sure you are properly anchored and are not over stiffening your arm and torquing the bow to hold at the 30 and 40 yd pins.


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## 2413gary (Apr 10, 2008)

Thats why I shoot feathers


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## mhill (Jul 11, 2011)

fletchnut said:


> havde you tried any other type of broadheads


just the ones in my signature.


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## mhill (Jul 11, 2011)

fletchnut said:


> also what type of nocks are on the arrows


easton microlight super nocks are on my arrows.


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## mhill (Jul 11, 2011)

how can i check the idler wheel lean at full draw? 

I have checked the rest level and nock point with a arrow level and i have check the arrow throught he berger holes.


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## Good Moses (Oct 17, 2008)

mhill said:


> how can i check the idler wheel lean at full draw?


If you do not have access to a draw board, you can eyeball this by drawing the bow and looking up at the idler wheel. You can also have your wife or a friend look at it as you hold the bow at full draw. You will see if it is leaning one direction or the other if the string is not tracking straight off the wheel. Basically, the string will look like it is coming off at slight angle. If the string is tracking off the idler wheel either left or right, you will need to add/take away twists from the yoke cable legs to bring the idler wheel back to vertical.



mhill said:


> I have checked the rest level and nock point with a arrow level and i have check the arrow throught he berger holes.


If you've checked your rest and nock points, and if your idler wheel lean checks out okay, then your issue is related to either form or arrow spine. I'd say you're probably fine spine-wise though.


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## mhill (Jul 11, 2011)

This is what my idler wheel looks like at full draw... what side of the yoke would i have to twist or untwist.


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## shanedut (Sep 28, 2009)

Its hard to tell from the pic but if the cam is leaning to the right either add twists to the left side and or take out twists on the right side and just the opposite if it is leaning to the left. If it isnt cam lean one thing i do to get my broadheads to fly is paper tune the arrow with the broadhead on. But i dont worry about fp grouping either my hunting bow has never shot a a fp out of it.


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## mhill (Jul 11, 2011)

im not sure if it is leaning as bad as the picture shows... i went outside and drew back looked at the wheel and there was minimal lean to the string. i then shot and the arrow seemed to shoot fine, its hitting the spots i am aiming for. im going to go check for fletching contact and if there is not of that... im thinking its me torquing the bow or the breeze out there is messing with my arrow flight. ill post my results.


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## barthowes (Aug 3, 2011)

If I misunderstood please correct me, but I understood your saying your BH are hitting with your FB at 30yrds, just that they are corkscrewing right before the target. I have in the past thought this exact same thing was happening only to find(with the slow motion of my handycam) the arrow wasn't corkscrewing at all. My eye was just picking up one of the flechings out as it spun and flexed thru the air then another making it appear to be corkscrewing when they were shooting perfect. Opitcal illusion. IMO if your FP and BH are hitting the same POI then you don't have a problem.


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## mhill (Jul 11, 2011)

just checked for fletching contact and there is none.... no contact at all. then i shot a broadhead right after and there was not any wind and no corkscrew either. im guessing its my form or the weather effecting it. id like to think i have fairly good form. i have a lose grip and in the saddle of my hand. so i think it the wind effecting the arrow.


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## mhill (Jul 11, 2011)

barthowes said:


> If I misunderstood please correct me, but I understood your saying your BH are hitting with your FB at 30yrds, just that they are corkscrewing right before the target. I have in the past thought this exact same thing was happening only to find(with the slow motion of my handycam) the arrow wasn't corkscrewing at all. My eye was just picking up one of the flechings out as it spun and flexed thru the air then another making it appear to be corkscrewing when they were shooting perfect. Opitcal illusion. IMO if your FP and BH are hitting the same POI then you don't have a problem.


Yes your correct. i the arrow do it some times with field points too but only when there is a heft wind. so im thinking the wind is making it do it too. thanks


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

I didn't have time to read all the other posts so I hope I don't copy someone but make sure they are spinning well with the broadheads. If there is a wobble, that may be your problem.


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## mhill (Jul 11, 2011)

Huntinsker said:


> I didn't have time to read all the other posts so I hope I don't copy someone but make sure they are spinning well with the broadheads. If there is a wobble, that may be your problem.


yup i spun test them. thanks :thumbs_up


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## threetoe (May 13, 2011)

I would suggest trying a different BH.

You have stated that you are shooting past that invisible 280 FPS speed where large blades can act up in weird ways.

Try a Slick Trick 4 blade 100 g.


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## mhill (Jul 11, 2011)

i just shot some before dark with no wind to interfere and the 3 blade bloodrunner and also the 2 blade bloodrunner both shot great. accurate and no corkscrew. i think the wind is messing with my blazers and making the tail drag making it look like a cork screw.


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## Standbanger (Jun 15, 2010)

If you can try some 4 inch feathers they will definately stabilize the broadhead better


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