# Hoyt Spyder 34 Tail Low Tear Solved



## srcarlso (Mar 3, 2005)

My son was struggling with a tail low tear that just would not go away. We moved the nock point, the rest, verified cam timing, ATA, DL, etc, etc. Verified no contact on a QAD by removing the upper bar...no matter what we did we kept getting a nock low tear. My last resort was tiller tuning - with 2 twists out from buried on the lower limb, we got bullet holes but I was not comfortable with that...should not need to do this.

I started looking at the new Airshocks - the top one seemed to be pretty hard into the top limb and they are not normally adjustable. So, ignoring the normally not adjustable option, I put a slight bend into the arm relieving some of the tension on the arm then buried the bottom limb again....bullet holes time after time.

Went to the range and creep tuned the bow with a Hooter-Shooter - creep performance perfect at 20 yards.

Just one more thing to look at when tuning a bow.


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## psebow (Jul 10, 2010)

srcarlso said:


> My last resort was tiller tuning - with 2 twists out from buried on the lower limb.
> I put a slight bend into the arm relieving some of the tension on the arm then buried the bottom limb again....bullet holes time after time.


Thanks for putting this up. I have a hoyt spyder 30 and have similar problem as you described. I just starting tuning my bows this year and the concept is still very new and unfamilar to me. Can you help explain what the following means?

Tiller tuning -twisting out from buried on the lower limb.
Bending into the arm to relieve some of the tension on the arm then buried the bottom limb again.

Thanks for the help.


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## srcarlso (Mar 3, 2005)

psebow said:


> Thanks for putting this up. I have a hoyt spyder 30 and have similar problem as you described. I just starting tuning my bows this year and the concept is still very new and unfamilar to me. Can you help explain what the following means?
> 
> Tiller tuning -twisting out from buried on the lower limb. Tiller tuning is the process of reducing the tension on one of the limbs as to affect various aspects of tuning by tightening or loosening the limb bolts. Normally, you don't need to do this but on occasion it helps.
> 
> ...


I hope this helps.


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## psebow (Jul 10, 2010)

Thanks srcarlso!

That helps a lot. I will try that on my spyder 30 and see if it helps. 

Just so that I understand this clearly, by backing out the lower limbs bolt, this reduces the tension that the upper airshocks applied to the upper limbs, resulting in the arrow straighter arrow flight, giving you the bullet hole. Slight bending the upper airshocks arm reduced the tension between the airshocks and the limb, and buried the lower limbs bolt again, still giving you the bullet hole. So it was the airshocks for the top limbs were pressing too hard on the limbs, which caused a nock low tear, not the lower limb bolt.


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## srcarlso (Mar 3, 2005)

psebow said:


> Thanks srcarlso!
> 
> That helps a lot. I will try that on my spyder 30 and see if it helps.
> 
> Just so that I understand this clearly, by backing out the lower limbs bolt, this reduces the tension that the upper airshocks applied to the upper limbs (NO), resulting in the arrow straighter arrow flight, giving you the bullet hole. Slight bending the upper airshocks arm reduced the tension between the airshocks and the limb, and buried the lower limbs bolt again, still giving you the bullet hole (YES). So it was the airshocks for the top limbs were pressing too hard on the limbs, which caused a nock low tear, not the lower limb bolt. (YES)(


I think you mis-understood part of what I was trying to explain. If you are newer to tuning...this could be confusing. When I backed out the bottom limb (before adjusting the tension on the upper arm), I was essentially slowing down the bottom set of limbs to match the top set thus my nock was not being driven down hard at the end of the powerstroke. So...if you are getting a persistent low tear and all the other variables are checked and ruled out (cam timing, contact with the rest, nock point height, etc), then take one or 1.5 turns out of your lower limb (or add one to the top limb if you are at the minimum poundage setting) and see if it makes a difference. (either slow down bottom limbs or speed uppers). If so, then check the tension on the spider and try to adjust. After getting both limbs at the same number of turns from buried, shoot an arrow to see if you get bullet holes. This adjustment should be the LAST you try, not the first. Checking settings is always recommended first. If you are not sure, take your bow to a friend who can do this or to a good reputable shop.


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