# DIY 9V LED sight light



## webenic (Sep 15, 2012)

After going through 3 different sight lights I finally got sick of them and decided to try and make my own. It turned out pretty good so I thought I would share along with some step-by-step instructions so anybody else can do the same thing.

I bought everything at the local Radio Shack for about $20. I had a soldering iron and 9V battery at home. 

This was my wiring plan:








Here is a picture of the box without and with the battery























Finished light with the components needed


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## webenic (Sep 15, 2012)

Components and part numbers

3x2x1 Project Box 270-1801
9V snap connectors 270-324
SPST Micro-mini toggle 275-624
5mm High Brightness white LED 276-017
330 Ohm resisters 271-1315

Also needed
Wire - I used 18 gauge hookup wire (about 4-5' total should be plenty)
Soldering Iron and solder
Phillips screwdriver
Electrical Tape
Zip ties

Optional: 
Hot glue gun
LED holder 276-080


Step 1: 
Start with the black wire from the 9V snap connector and solder to the 330 Ohm resistor. Solder about halfway up the wire on the resistor and cut the "tag end" off. This way it will fit into the side of the project box easier.

Step 2: 
Cut another piece of black wire approximately 1-1.5" long and solder it to the other side of the resistor. Use electrical tape to cover bare wires.

Step 3: 
Determine where you want the toggle switch on the side of the project box and drill a hole to install the switch on the box. Insert the switch but do not use the nut to hold it in just yet.

Step 4: 
With the resistor fitted into the long side of the box, eyeball the approximate length of wire needed from the resistor to reach one of the tabs on the toggle switch. Mark the wire as needed and then remove everything and proceed to solder it to the toggle switch. It works best if soldered close to a 90 degree angle.

Step 5: 
Take a long section (1.5-2') of black wire and solder it to the other tab of the toggle switch. Again, try to solder it at a 90 degree angle to the tab so it travels away from the switch opposite from the wire in step 3. Be very careful here, the tabs are close together and you do not want the wires to touch. 

Step 6:
Take another long section of red wire(1.5-2') and solder it to the other half of the 9V snap connector. Again, electrical tape to cover bare wires.

Step 7:
Drill a second hole on the opposite side of the switch from the toggle. It needs to be large enough to get two wires through it.

Step 8:
Start fitting everything into the box. Start with the toggle switch and then bend the wire carefully to fit the resister along the bottom of the long end of the box like in step 4. Take the long red wire and long black wire and feed them through the hole made in step 7.

Step 9:
If you are using a LED holder, Take your LED and feed the "legs" through rubber insulator piece. It's not really needed, but it makes it a little easier to work with. You are ready to solder your red and black wires to the LED. Trim the black and red wires so they are about 12-14" long outside of the box. (Mine are way too long in the picture)

Red wire gets soldered to the LONG leg.
Black wire soldered to the SHORT leg.

Try to solder as high up the "legs" as possible, and then you can trim them afterwards. Use some electrical tape to cover the bare wires.

Step 10: 
Attach your battery and test everything. If good, go ahead and use hot melt to hold everything in place in the project box. Attach the Lid using the screws that came with it and you're done! Zip tie to the riser and run the wires along your sight to place LED to wherever you need it.



Some hints and afterthoughts:

My wires to the LED are WAY longer than needed. I really only need about a foot outside of the box. I'll make it work for now, but I plan to shorten them up later. 
There really isn't a good way to attach the project box without zip-ties, and when the battery goes bad I will have to cut the zip ties and use a screwdriver to take the top off of the project box. 
I took my unworking spot hogg light and adapted it to hold my LED. It works pretty good for now, but I'm sure there is a better way.


Thoughts or comments?


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## newells (Oct 31, 2006)

I did basically the same thing but used a basic indication LED and powered it with 2 AA batteries. I got the battery holder from radio shack. I then enclosed the end of my top pin fiber with the led so I (nor the critters) wouldn't see any of the light. The amount of light that travels down the fiber is the perfect amount for those low light shots. I think I may have had $15 at most in this and has already lasted way longer than the little watch batteries that are about $20 for the three needed to power the factory light.


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## Joe Schnur (Mar 22, 2012)

Hey just for reference digikey.com sells those silly batteries at .25 each for those that have good lights the want to keep using


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## Purka (Sep 8, 2004)

How would you connect a dimmer?


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Purka said:


> How would you connect a dimmer?


wire in a 1k Pot...


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## mattmejean (Oct 5, 2011)

1k pot?


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

As a suggestion you should use the UV LED it makes the fibers glow. 
Great post, almost Identical to the light I made. you can see mine here:
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...post1060430861

The LED I used was a 4v so it for longevity it required a 330 resistor.


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## webenic (Sep 15, 2012)

I actually looked for the UV LED but couldn't find any. That thread was actually what gave me the inspiration to build my own. I _really_ like the way you have the battery easy to access. How did you do your enclosure? 

The nice thing about everything I bought is that all I need to make another one is another switch and enclosure. Everything else came with multiple parts in a pack.


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## Vortex69 (Jul 8, 2007)

I know it's fun building stuff like this but other than that, why? For under $20 you can buy a tiny/light-weight unit with an electronically variable intensity that can be purchased in many colors, including IR and UV. The only DIY challenge is in figuring on how to mount it. Currently, I am using these on Shibuya, Sure-Loc, and four HHA's sights.

If you elect to go this route and need some mounting assistance, feel free to pm. 

(need to use black body/covert model)

http://www.photonlight.com/led-flashlights/photon-freedom-micro-led-keychain-flashlight/


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Vortex69 said:


> I know it's fun building stuff like this but other than that, why? For under $20 you can buy a tiny/light-weight unit with an electronically variable intensity that can be purchased in many colors, including IR and UV. The only DIY challenge is in figuring on how to mount it. Currently, I am using these on Shibuya, Sure-Loc, and four HHA's sights.
> http://www.photonlight.com/led-flashlights/photon-freedom-micro-led-keychain-flashlight/


I can answer this. Assurance that the light is going to be working when you need it. I'm notorious for forgetting and leaving my light on. A couple of years ago I was in Vegas and left one of the smaller lights with the small batteries on in my room for about 4 hours. It was noticeably dimmer and the lighting on the line sucked so I struggled. I went to 3 or 4 different stores that evening trying to find the right battery for it and I ended up having to shoot without a light the last day. I spent probably $1200.00 total on the trip and to be frustrated by a dead $2.00 battery well it just plain sucked! Soo... if you shoot a light that uses a 9 volt battery you can find one of those just about anywhere and they can stay lit for 3 days straight. I doubt I spent more than $30.00 on the whole thing so the peace of mind was certainly worth it.



webenic said:


> I actually looked for the UV LED but couldn't find any. That thread was actually what gave me the inspiration to build my own. I _really_ like the way you have the battery easy to access. How did you do your enclosure?


I bent my enclosure out of aluminum sign blank. You can get it at Lowes I think, but for sure any sign shop.


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## Vortex69 (Jul 8, 2007)

b0w_bender said:


> I can answer this. Assurance that the light is going to be working when you need it. I'm notorious for forgetting and leaving my light on.........


Gotta admit that I have forgotten to turn them off a couple of times and that the dual 2016's don't have the staying power of a 9 volt. 

Since then I have learned to carry extra batteries and, for an emergency, a spare light. The light can easily be changed out in under 5 seconds if your not using the optional screw but, if you are, the time then goes to 15/20 seconds.

Not trying to tell "anyone" what to do.....just offering an idea to those who might be looking for another option.


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## Purka (Sep 8, 2004)

So how would add a timer to it?


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## Bowgod02 (Sep 18, 2006)

Purka said:


> So how would add a timer to it?


If I were to attemp to add a time out feature, I would program a picaxe chip to handle this. Would be a simple program to do.


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## slowen (Jun 27, 2006)

Very cool!


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## mattmejean (Oct 5, 2011)

If I wanted to add a rheostat to mine where would I get one and how would I wire it. Would I still need the 330ohm resister


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## cooper334 (Jan 5, 2008)

Tagged


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Bowgod02 said:


> If I were to attemp to add a time out feature, I would program a picaxe chip to handle this. Would be a simple program to do.


Yes, if you used the small 8 pin PicAxe or Atmel Tiny85 you would have a nice little setup in a very small package.
Once you add a microcontroller you really open the door to a lot of possibilities. Like dimming, timer, on/off switch, switching to different colored LED's etc.


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## Philhair (Apr 7, 2013)

Yeah I am totally building one for indoor.


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## Bowgod02 (Sep 18, 2006)

redruff said:


> Yes, if you used the small 8 pin PicAxe or Atmel Tiny85 you would have a nice little setup in a very small package.
> Once you add a microcontroller you really open the door to a lot of possibilities. Like dimming, timer, on/off switch, switching to different colored LED's etc.


I have all this stuff sitting around not doing anything. I think I'll try and build one up with an 08m picaxe to have the auto off timer in there. How long do you guys think the time out should be? I'll post up when I get it done. Now I'm thinking what else I can add to it....


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

pretty cool


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

I built 3 of these for about $25 total, they work great!


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## smithte426 (Feb 20, 2012)

tag


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## Philhair (Apr 7, 2013)

For my version of this project I found a triple a box with a switch built in for $1.99 and the led costs $.189 wired.


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Bowgod02 said:


> I have all this stuff sitting around not doing anything. I think I'll try and build one up with an 08m picaxe to have the auto off timer in there. How long do you guys think the time out should be? I'll post up when I get it done. Now I'm thinking what else I can add to it....


You could put a CDS light sensor on it...write code to turn it off when you put your finger over it.
It would just be an analog read on one of pins with an IF statement...
or a reed switch so when your bow is resting on the stab the LED is off and when you bring it up level to shoot it turns on???

You would get some mad battery life with that! kind of like crude multiplexing! LOL..


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## 1dwn4up (Jan 22, 2013)

Tag


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## Peteyur (Jan 31, 2011)

This is cool and now I have another project! !!!!!
Thanks for posting up
Pete


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## Justin (Aug 11, 2003)

Tag!!


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## Bowgod02 (Sep 18, 2006)

redruff said:


> You could put a CDS light sensor on it...write code to turn it off when you put your finger over it.
> It would just be an analog read on one of pins with an IF statement...
> or a reed switch so when your bow is resting on the stab the LED is off and when you bring it up level to shoot it turns on???
> 
> You would get some mad battery life with that! kind of like crude multiplexing! LOL..


I spent some time yesterday working on a setup for my hunting bow. Funny you mentioned a CDS because I did put one in my circuit incase I decide to use it in the code. I had a couple ideas for its use. Like an auto high and low for the led depending on lighting. Right now I have two different valued resistors in there for the led so depending which pin on the 08M goes high the led will come on dim or bright. If I go this way I'll probably check ADC with every loop that way the led brightness would change immediately if it see's a change. I know if I add anything more, I'll probably have to jump up to a 14 pin chip. I think I'm out of easily usable pins for more ideas. Which I should have probably done from the beginning....


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## huntin4hitters (Jan 25, 2008)

tagged for later


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## atennishu (Sep 24, 2010)

in too


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## Philhair (Apr 7, 2013)

My build was super low tec and cheap.

I used a $1.99 AAA battery box with switch from radio shack and bought a pack of 9v resistance led pre wired off eBay couple different sizes of shrink wrap and the mount off an old quiver retrofitted to the battery box. Used the dead micro light to hold my led.








Let me know if this makes sense.


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## BowHuntnKY (Dec 10, 2008)

Bought all the stuff to make one up tonight...just trying to figure out how I'm gonna Mount the led on my CBE scope


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## webenic (Sep 15, 2012)

Glad to see this is helping people  My original 9V is still running strong and I probably have 25+ rounds of 5 spot on it. MUCH better battery life than the crappy hearing aid batteries! 

The only negative I have is I can occasionally hear a rattle in the box from the battery. Going to add a little foam padding inside and see if it takes care of it.


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## BowHuntnKY (Dec 10, 2008)

OK I'm running a blue fiber and when I'm outside like now and its overcast...the light doesn't do anything to make the pin brighter.


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## zcsmith (Mar 5, 2013)

I built one similar to these about but with a potentiometer to control the brightness of the light!


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## BowHuntnKY (Dec 10, 2008)

zcsmith said:


> I built one similar to these about but with a potentiometer to control the brightness of the light!


Where did u get the pot switch radio shack didn't have anything nearly small eniugh


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## Shwack_27 (Nov 8, 2012)

cant wait to try this!


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## BowHuntnKY (Dec 10, 2008)

Went back and bout a UV led and man is it bright !!!


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## zcsmith (Mar 5, 2013)

Radio shack has a micro pot that you use a small screw driver to adjust. You can also find several online that will work. I am working on a model that will have a 3 position switch, Hi Mid Low


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## Dakota10 (Jan 16, 2014)

tagged


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

Any more on these??


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## DonsHarley (Sep 10, 2003)

I bought 10 5mm pre wired 9V uv bulbs with the resister off Ebay bit haven't had time to build yet. The bulbs were something like 3.50 shipped from china.


dw'struth said:


> Any more on these??


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

I used to play with making lighted nocks from LEDs, and I'm sure that I could come up with a decent sight light. However, the idea of adjustable brightness/variable voltage really has me interested. It would probably be over my head, though. lol

Thanks!


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## Covurt (Nov 14, 2012)

Adjustable brightness is easy with a potentiometer. I used a micro thumb wheel potentiometer. Same type you see on inline volume controls on headphones. 

So.
+v -> resistor -> potentiometer -> LED -> ground.

Lots of youtube vids that explain how to do it. 

I'd like to build something around a digital potentiometer and pushbuttons next. 

Glad I'm not the only one doing this little projects!


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

Covurt said:


> Adjustable brightness is easy with a potentiometer. I used a micro thumb wheel potentiometer. Same type you see on inline volume controls on headphones.
> 
> So.
> +v -> resistor -> potentiometer -> LED -> ground.
> ...


So....you're telling me that I could make use of an old pair of head-phones?? Promising... Thanks!


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

dw'struth said:


> So....you're telling me that I could make use of an old pair of head-phones?? Promising... Thanks!


Ah yes brilliant I'm sure I have some old piece of junk laying around that I could salvage a witch from.


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## Covurt (Nov 14, 2012)

dw'struth said:


> So....you're telling me that I could make use of an old pair of head-phones?? Promising... Thanks!


Or $2 at radio shack.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...ce=CAT&znt_medium=RSCOM&znt_content=CT2032230


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

Nice! I just hope my local store has one. Thanks Covurt!


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

I happened to have some old headphones. The pot from them works like a charm. Now all I need to do is neatly package my proof of concept! lol
Thanks!


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## jbacon1340 (Oct 29, 2013)

So the resistor goes between the positive and the POL


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## 3D JOE (Aug 28, 2012)

> Adjustable brightness is easy with a potentiometer. I used a micro thumb wheel potentiometer. Same type you see on inline volume controls on headphones.
> 
> So.
> +v -> resistor -> potentiometer -> LED -> ground.


Quick question.. reading through this thread and I liked this idea, however, how do you access this to adjust it? Can it be adjusted shot to shot or do you have to open up the case to access it?


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## jbacon1340 (Oct 29, 2013)




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## 3D JOE (Aug 28, 2012)

^^^ looks good! yours is adjustable for brightness?


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

3D JOE said:


> ^^^ looks good! yours is adjustable for brightness?


Yep...the big silver thing is his "dimmer". I'd still like to know which pot would be best for this application. I ended up with 50k, but it was just a stab in the dark. It works, but the adjustment is very sensitive in spots...


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

redruff said:


> wire in a 1k Pot...


Ooops...ruff says 1K. His advice tends to be pretty solid. :wink:
I might have to switch mine out some day.


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## 3D JOE (Aug 28, 2012)

Which pot is are you using jbacon? in the other diy light thread, the guy uses a dimmer like yours but it is much longer and bulkier. is yours adjustable by hand?


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello
Tagged


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## Covurt (Nov 14, 2012)

Mounted to a pcb board. Glued that inside the box and made a cut out for the wheel to stick out. I'll post a pic once I find the darn thing. Apparently been lost in the shuffle of the last few weeks.




3D JOE said:


> Quick question.. reading through this thread and I liked this idea, however, how do you access this to adjust it? Can it be adjusted shot to shot or do you have to open up the case to access it?


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## 3D JOE (Aug 28, 2012)

sounds great. cant wait to see it


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## jbacon1340 (Oct 29, 2013)

10k pot, trying to make the whole thing smaller


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## jbacon1340 (Oct 29, 2013)

This unit is pretty bulky, I will be buying connections for a cr123, aa, and aaa batteries. To see if I can get it all into a smaller box, also I am going to a slider style pot with push button switch


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## 3D JOE (Aug 28, 2012)

> 10k pot, trying to make the whole thing smaller


is your pot adjustable by hand? i see it has a spot on top for a flat head screw driver so wasnt sure.


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## 3D JOE (Aug 28, 2012)

> This unit is pretty bulky, I will be buying connections for a cr123, aa, and aaa batteries. To see if I can get it all into a smaller box, also I am going to a slider style pot with push button switch


Do you have any idea how long will the aa or aaa batteries last compared to 9v?


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## jbacon1340 (Oct 29, 2013)

It is mounted in the box with hole in top for the post to be exposed. Not sure of time difference between batteries. But box size is. I want a thinner box like the LP Light. I am going to a cr123 battery.


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## Jona (Mar 20, 2014)

Tag


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## Irish Sitka (Jul 2, 2009)

I tagged this thread months ago and am now in a position to put one together.
Thanks to everyone who contributed.


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

dw'struth said:


> Yep...the big silver thing is his "dimmer". I'd still like to know which pot would be best for this application. I ended up with 50k, but it was just a stab in the dark. It works, but the adjustment is very sensitive in spots...


Yes, that size pot will cause you to be either off and then on with just a tiny tweak of the knob.
A standard Led only needs about 180 to 330 ohms for protection. So a 50k pot blows through that range with just a touch!

On a side note.
I have a little different twist on this on a breadboard right now.
I have a CDS photo resistor going into an arduino, then dimming and brightening an led automatically. Then if your not happy with that I wired in a 25 ohm Pot to manually adjust the led. 
Its all working the code is solid. 

So the next step is to transfer the code to a Tiny 45, wire it up to a little section of perf board and decide on a power supply. I'm leaning towards a 9v just cuz you can walk into a gas station and get one, but that will make the case bigger than a 9v.

I'll post a seperate step any step when I get it done.


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## Pittstate23 (Dec 27, 2010)

cool!


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

Looking for something like this for awhile.

Tagged great work all.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello
Quiet a while back. I used
2 very thin piece of brass inside Velcro for a switch. Wen I would squeeze the bow grip at time of drawing to anchor. The light came on. And went off when I let up. [ Later


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Bowgod02 said:


> I spent some time yesterday working on a setup for my hunting bow. Funny you mentioned a CDS because I did put one in my circuit incase I decide to use it in the code. I had a couple ideas for its use. Like an auto high and low for the led depending on lighting. Right now I have two different valued resistors in there for the led so depending which pin on the 08M goes high the led will come on dim or bright. If I go this way I'll probably check ADC with every loop that way the led brightness would change immediately if it see's a change. I know if I add anything more, I'll probably have to jump up to a 14 pin chip. I think I'm out of easily usable pins for more ideas. Which I should have probably done from the beginning....


I just built mine last Friday with an Atmel Tiny85. It got a little complicated because the Tiny doesn't like over 5v so I had to put 7805v regulator on it, but it is working. the CDS reads the light value then does PWM to an output pin. then i have a 1k pot in series so if you don't like the auto value you can turn the knob to adjust manually. this goes to a uv led.

i have not actually tried it on a sight yet but i will on monday. will probably add auto off code as well.


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Stuck it in the end of my sight fibers tonight....works!





http://ruffanuff.com/x.mov


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## BowHuntnKY (Dec 10, 2008)

I have done pretty.much what the OP has...but I used the UV led. And now with my blue fiber it actually seems too brite. Is there any way to make it a bit dimmer without a pot switch?


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## skiisme753 (Jan 15, 2013)

BowHuntnKY said:


> I have done pretty.much what the OP has...but I used the UV led. And now with my blue fiber it actually seems too brite. Is there any way to make it a bit dimmer without a pot switch?


Anyway to move the Led farther from your fiber? Easiest way to dim the led.


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

BowHuntnKY said:


> I have done pretty.much what the OP has...but I used the UV led. And now with my blue fiber it actually seems too brite. Is there any way to make it a bit dimmer without a pot switch?


If you are not using a POT you have to use a fixed resistor....the larger the resistor value the dimmer it will get, but since its a fixed resistor, once you solder it in you are stuck with it. Why not use a POT? You can get small package ones.
They are no harder to solder in than a fixed resisitor.


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## BowHuntnKY (Dec 10, 2008)

redruff said:


> If you are not using a POT you have to use a fixed resistor....the larger the resistor value the dimmer it will get, but since its a fixed resistor, once you solder it in you are stuck with it. Why not use a POT? You can get small package ones.
> They are no harder to solder in than a fixed resisitor.


I might go with a POT..last time I was at radio shack they didnt have any 1k


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Amazon has them in all kinds of packages....free shipping if you have prime
Pick the style you want!

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...x=1k+po,aps&rh=i:aps,k:1k pot&oqid=1410884142


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## kc hay seed (Jul 12, 2007)

i just use a small key chain light and a couple pieces of velcro for in doors. do not need one out doors,i do not hunt anymore!!!


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Well I went from the most complicated to the simplest design for the electronics. Added some connectors and threw it in a case.

6v two coin cells.


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## Bowgod02 (Sep 18, 2006)

Nicely done redruff. Mine is still on the bench as I got side tracked with too many house projects this summer. Now that I'm done and archery is around the corner I'll jump back in on mine. I'll probably stay with the picaxe 08m that I started with earlier.


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Bowgod02 said:


> Nicely done redruff. Mine is still on the bench as I got side tracked with too many house projects this summer. Now that I'm done and archery is around the corner I'll jump back in on mine. I'll probably stay with the picaxe 08m that I started with earlier.


I moved away from the tiny...just too much extra circuitry that you can easily do with a twist of the knob.


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## Irish Sitka (Jul 2, 2009)

I have put one light together for the bow sight and am putting another together and am looking for the switch that will allow me to dim the light?
What is this unit called and how powerful does it need to be?


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

The one in my picture above is a 1k panel mount potentiometer.

http://www.adafruit.com/search?q=1k+pot&b=1


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## Irish Sitka (Jul 2, 2009)

redruff said:


> The one in my picture above is a 1k panel mount potentiometer.
> 
> http://www.adafruit.com/search?q=1k+pot&b=1


Thank you Redruff, was able to track down something similar just now.


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## jbacon1340 (Oct 29, 2013)

It is said that you can also use the old rotary volume switches from older Walkmans, I haven't found one yet that I can tear apart, should be so soon, I'll let you know how it works.


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## Kb2112 (Sep 18, 2007)

I love to tinker with things like this. Nicely done.


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

jbacon1340 said:


> It is said that you can also use the old rotary volume switches from older Walkmans, I haven't found one yet that I can tear apart, should be so soon, I'll let you know how it works.


would you want to even bother for a 50 cent item?


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## jbacon1340 (Oct 29, 2013)

The reason is to make the case smaller if not using a 9volt, planning a unit with a cr123 battery.


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

jbacon1340 said:


> The reason is to make the case smaller if not using a 9volt, planning a unit with a cr123 battery.


got it! post up your results.


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## josephwolfe (Jul 30, 2011)

Followed the directions and this was the end result. So glad I don't have to buy any more sight lights or batteries for them.

A few suggestions or alterations for my config. I used 3M Brush On Electrical tape. Its basically a rubber coating. I had to retrofit an old sight light to fit the new LED and used hot glue to secure it into the housing. When I turned on the light, I saw that the glue dries clear, DUH!! so I coated it with 3M Brush On electrical coating. then added it to the ends of the shrink tubing for a little added waterproofing. 

Let me know what you guys think.


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## Irish Sitka (Jul 2, 2009)

Question: Does the dimmer switch go between the bulb and the resistor?
The resistor staying close to battery?


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## jbacon1340 (Oct 29, 2013)

I put mine after the pot and before the LED


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## booone0 (Nov 30, 2013)

Irish Sitka said:


> Question: Does the dimmer switch go between the bulb and the resistor?
> The resistor staying close to battery?


If you're connecting it all in line (series) i am almost certain it doesn't matter. It can go:

+ terminal - resistor - pot- led - (-) terminal

Or 

+ terminal - resistor - led - pot- (-) terminal

Or other arrangements. 

Make sure you connect the LED correctly, ie don't reverse the polarity or you will probably blow it.


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## Irish Sitka (Jul 2, 2009)

Thanks Guys,
I have one made without the pot. Next two will have pots.
First one is lit up like a Christmas tree? 6w led.


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## fz1 (Oct 15, 2011)

thanks ,this is good stuff


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## RickB4 (Apr 18, 2013)

Tag


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## Turkeyflacx2 (Mar 21, 2009)

All of this electrical mumbo jumbo talk has me baffled! Anyone have a complete parts list to get the stuff from one place to build one for myself?


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## poorcountryboy (Jan 31, 2011)

tag


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

I've made several, I will go with a dimmer/volume type switch on my next go around to get infinite adjustment. It seems that I have about 4 usable settings with the clicking type POT, but I'm missing one step between too dim and too bright in some dark settings.


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## Turkeyflacx2 (Mar 21, 2009)

I got all the stuff to make one but don't know about the POT wiring? 3 terminals?


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## 5spotkiller (Feb 25, 2013)

Tag


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

tagged


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## Turkeyflacx2 (Mar 21, 2009)

I built one with my father inlaw. One problem we ran into multiple time was every single time we soldered the wire to the POT, it ceased to adjust the light once it was soldered in. We were thinking maybe cheapo POTS that couldn't take any heat from the soldering gun?


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

Guys do you think it will work if I use these components:
- UV LED $9.95 http://littlebits.cc/bits/uv-led
- Dimmer $7.95 http://littlebits.cc/bits/dimmer
- Battery + Cable $4.95 http://littlebits.cc/accessories/battery-plus-cable
- Power $5.95 http://littlebits.cc/bits/littlebits-power


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## scandog (Aug 17, 2005)

When you connect the Pot, you are connecting outside and center correct? Put a VOM meter on your pot , set to resistance and see if it changes when you turn the nob. if you apply too much heat you can damage components. Put some flux on the terminals and apply a little solder to the terminals and to the wire separately then just hold the two together and touch with the iron. as soon as the solder melts the two together, remove the iron. 

The Little BITS would probably work so u don't have to solder, but you won't be able to change the intensity on the fly. that is really designed for boarding circuits to test. Also I couldn't find the specs for the dimmer. if it doesn't have a minimum of 330 ohms, you rick burning up the LED.


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

scandog said:


> When you connect the Pot, you are connecting outside and center correct? Put a VOM meter on your pot , set to resistance and see if it changes when you turn the nob. if you apply too much heat you can damage components. Put some flux on the terminals and apply a little solder to the terminals and to the wire separately then just hold the two together and touch with the iron. as soon as the solder melts the two together, remove the iron.
> 
> The Little BITS would probably work so u don't have to solder, but you won't be able to change the intensity on the fly. that is really designed for boarding circuits to test. Also I couldn't find the specs for the dimmer. if it doesn't have a minimum of 330 ohms, you rick burning up the LED.


I thought since they provide the LED and the dimmer then it should work fine with all the components.


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## bonecollector66 (Mar 2, 2011)

Tag


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

What size resistor goes between the positive terminal and the pot? If I use 1K pot.


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

I decided to not use the liitlebits product since it's connected to each other with magnets and during a shot they might disconnect. Also it is easier to mount all the components from radio shack.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Radio Shack is sucking wind and planning to close a bunch of stores. I think they were jumping the shark with all the different directions they were trying to migrate the stores into. So if you need parts go get them now otherwise you'll be ordering them offline somewhere.


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

b0w_bender said:


> Radio Shack is sucking wind and planning to close a bunch of stores. I think they were jumping the shark with all the different directions they were trying to migrate the stores into. So if you need parts go get them now otherwise you'll be ordering them offline somewhere.


True story, the 2 Radio Shack stores in my area shut down... (Western NC)


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

Can anyone help me with that: What size resistor goes between the positive terminal and the pot? If I use 1K pot ? Do I need to use one or not?


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## ThunderEagle (May 11, 2011)

Pysiek,

I'm not an electronics expert, but I've fried a few LEDs. IMO, you should put a 330 Ohm resistor with the pot. If you have the pot all the way down, then the full voltage goes into the LED and that can burn it out. Keep the resistor in place to protect you.


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

ThunderEagle said:


> Pysiek,
> 
> I'm not an electronics expert, but I've fried a few LEDs. IMO, you should put a 330 Ohm resistor with the pot. If you have the pot all the way down, then the full voltage goes into the LED and that can burn it out. Keep the resistor in place to protect you.


All right. Thanks for the reply. I forgot to add I will use 9V LED not 3.3V like OP stated


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

I was thinking.... If I put the resistor and the potentiometer then the resistor will limit the voltage and next the potentiometer. To me it looks like it will make the LED much darker. You know what I mean?


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## FearNot (Dec 22, 2003)

Cool write up


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## scandog (Aug 17, 2005)

thunder Eagle is correct. the 1k pot is 1k max. when rotated, will most likely go to 0 ohms at the other end. the 330 ohm should give you the correct voltage drop and current to prevent the LED from cooking. I could doo all the math, but college was too may years ago. 330 in series tigh the 1k pot and the LED and have fun.


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Just FYI...a Potentiometer is just an adjustable resistor and resistors are passive. That is they have no polarity. So on the pot with three terminals,
You can hook + and - to either of the outside terminals. It does not matter. The middle terminal is the "output" terminal.

Ive since really cleaned up my design, rubberized the case and put nice protective coverings on the wires. 
The sucky thing is...some many sights have different sized holes for the light.

If anyone is interested in seeing it I can build one up tomorrow and post pictures. Nuts and Bolts has my last one I built.


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## P&YREAPER (Oct 14, 2010)

Pysiek said:


> All right. Thanks for the reply. I forgot to add I will use 9V LED not 3.3V like OP stated


if your using a 9v LED and 9v battery you don't need the resistor, just the pot.


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

P&YREAPER said:


> if your using a 9v LED and 9v battery you don't need the resistor, just the pot.


But here is the think. I purchased the LED from a supplier on eBay and they already preinstalled the resistor on the led.


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## P&YREAPER (Oct 14, 2010)

The link didn't show an LED, but I'll guess it's a lower voltage LED with a resistor added to work at 9 volts, so they advertise it as a 9v LED. Just a guess.


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

One more question guys. Since we are already on the topic. Can I connect two leds to one 9V battery?


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Pysiek said:


> One more question guys. Since we are already on the topic. Can I connect two leds to one 9V battery?


You can hook as many LED's as you want...two ways to do it...
Series, that is +-+-+-... OR
parallel
++++++++++++++
-----------------

In series, voltage adds up and current remains constant.
In parallel voltage remains constant and current adds up.
Kirchoff's Law

If you are doing just a couple LED's either way will work.


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## Beat~ (Jun 24, 2014)

This is a nice little project to do once my light dies


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

redruff said:


> You can hook as many LED's as you want...two ways to do it...
> Series, that is +-+-+-... OR
> parallel
> ++++++++++++++
> ...


Thanks


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## bowhunter1661 (Oct 9, 2010)

Just made one myself. Used a 4 AAA radioshack. I wired it so that it works off of only 3 AAA which sets the voltage at 4.5 volts. Just right for the typical LED. Therefore I donor need to add a resistor. I then installed a headphone potentiometer and hot glued it in place. Works awesone!! Also I gutted an old sight light and installed the led inside of it.


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

Right on! I need to swap out my pot switches for volume switches, always seems there is one "click" short of just right...


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

redruff said:


> Well I went from the most complicated to the simplest design for the electronics. Added some connectors and threw it in a case.
> 
> 6v two coin cells.


hey Ruff...what do you call that red case? Thanks


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

dw'struth said:


> hey Ruff...what do you call that red case? Thanks


Umm the RedRuff Custom Designed 3d Printed thingy???? LOL..'

Just a 3d CADed case I designed and printed. I put JST connectors inside for the two sets of wires to plug into.


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

I am an electrical engineering student, and I wish we would make a project like this in my labs!!! Nice work!


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

PA3-DArcher4 said:


> I am an electrical engineering student, and I wish we would make a project like this in my labs!!! Nice work!


Why can't you? If you want to make it more sophisticated for a project I can walk you through doing it with a Tiny85 controller. That way you would have to build the power supply and everything. I think I posted a picture of the Tiny85 version earlier in the thread.


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

redruff said:


> Why can't you? If you want to make it more sophisticated for a project I can walk you through doing it with a Tiny85 controller. That way you would have to build the power supply and everything. I think I posted a picture of the Tiny85 version earlier in the thread.


Unfortunately, i am not allowed to use tbethe labs for anything but class work! Which makes sense but completely stinks because there's loads of scrap aluminum with anything from lathes to CNC that I could make some killer stabilizers!


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

redruff said:


> Umm the RedRuff Custom Designed 3d Printed thingy???? LOL..'
> 
> Just a 3d CADed case I designed and printed. I put JST connectors inside for the two sets of wires to plug into.


Well crap...I'm betting Radio Shack won't have any. lol


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Final design.
6v two coin cells, you can run on one in a pinch if put in foil in place of a cell.
Modular, you can swap out the led holder for different size led holders to fit different sight light holes, etc.


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## AitchAr (Aug 4, 2013)

Looks great redruff. Strong work!


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

Nice!


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## rackmasterlgw (Mar 16, 2007)

Nice work guys.


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## smithte426 (Feb 20, 2012)

what did you use for the green and orange wire protectors, thanks


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## ThunderEagle (May 11, 2011)

redruff said:


> Final design.
> 6v two coin cells, you can run on one in a pinch if put in foil in place of a cell.
> Modular, you can swap out the led holder for different size led holders to fit different sight light holes, etc.


Redruff,

Would you mind providing a parts list for your current design? I know the case is custom made, but that battery case and the connectors look like they will make things easier.

Also, how did you protect the wires? Hollowed out paracord and shrink wrap?

If you know of an existing project case out there that would be close, I'd appreciate it too.


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Finally found a piece to make this work as a screw in fir my IQ site. It has a 1/4-28 hole.
These will work with any sight that has the same threaded hole.


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

I also have IQ sight. What did you use to screw in the LED?


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Pysiek said:


> I also have IQ sight. What did you use to screw in the LED?


Which IQ do you have the old one is different than the new one.


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

redruff said:


> which iq do you have the old one is different than the new one.


IQ pro xt. When I bought a sight light with the adapters to be used on different sight. The smallest thread size was the one that fit on my IQ


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Pysiek said:


> IQ pro xt. When I bought a sight light with the adapters to be used on different sight. The smallest thread size was the one that fit on my IQ


Yes, that is the 1/4 -28 size.


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## BowHuntnKY (Dec 10, 2008)

redruff said:


> Final design.
> 6v two coin cells, you can run on one in a pinch if put in foil in place of a cell.
> Modular, you can swap out the led holder for different size led holders to fit different sight light holes, etc.


Where can i buy 3 lol


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## 5stang0 (Feb 27, 2015)

Here is my version I completed today. Purchased the 9v battery boxes through Amazon for less than $4 for 5 of them. Purchased the mini potentiometer and UV LEDs from radio shack. Utilized old Truglo light housings which contain both the LED and resistor. So considering I had the light housing on hand it cost me roughly $4 per set up plus the battery. Not too bad!


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## DonsHarley (Sep 10, 2003)

5stang0 said:


> View attachment 2195172
> View attachment 2195173
> View attachment 2195174
> 
> ...


Do you have the part # for the mini potentiometer I looked for it at Radio shack online but there was no listing for it?


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## 5stang0 (Feb 27, 2015)

Part# 271-0280


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## DonsHarley (Sep 10, 2003)

5stang0 said:


> Part# 271-0280


Thanks you.


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## wilba (Jul 5, 2012)

I need one of these


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## wilba (Jul 5, 2012)

How many Watt resistor would i need for this build?


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

I decided to purchase one from redruff. Very happy with my decision. Small design and working awesome.


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## wilba (Jul 5, 2012)

All done,works a treat.


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## Moonshine_Spaz (Aug 8, 2015)

b0w_bender said:


> As a suggestion you should use the UV LED it makes the fibers glow.
> Great post, almost Identical to the light I made. you can see mine here:
> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...post1060430861
> 
> The LED I used was a 4v so it for longevity it required a 330 resistor.


My wife got me a sight and I plan on replacing the light. But I want to be able to adjust the brightness. If I was to put in a pot switch or volume switch were would I put it in the sequence of the diagram?? I would assume inbetween the toggle switch and the 330???

Sent from my LG-H343 using Tapatalk


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## Moparman340 (Dec 31, 2011)

Awesome thread!


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## Moonshine_Spaz (Aug 8, 2015)

Well I tried one radioshack near me to get the stuff to try this out but all they had was the resistors, 9v snap Conn and the toggle. Gonna try another one tonight to see what I can dig up

Sent from my LG-H343 using Tapatalk


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## Moonshine_Spaz (Aug 8, 2015)

Seems like the hardest part of this little project is going to be getting the bulb 

Sent from my LG-H343 using Tapatalk


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## klean1 (Jan 14, 2012)

I have this. Surely something can be made


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Moonshine_Spaz said:


> Seems like the hardest part of this little project is going to be getting the bulb


Actually you can find dozens of choices on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-10mm-...219902?hash=item4d3bd3d3fe:g:oYUAAOSwPhdVGjJH


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## Moonshine_Spaz (Aug 8, 2015)

b0w_bender said:


> Actually you can find dozens of choices on ebay
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-10mm-...219902?hash=item4d3bd3d3fe:g:oYUAAOSwPhdVGjJH


I was hoping not to have to use eBay but it seems like that's really going to be my only option

Sent from my LG-H343 using Tapatalk


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## mibowhunter2094 (Sep 8, 2008)

Moonshine_Spaz said:


> I was hoping not to have to use eBay but it seems like that's really going to be my only option
> 
> Sent from my LG-H343 using Tapatalk


I sent you a pm


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## klean1 (Jan 14, 2012)

I bought prewired 9V UVs on ebay. Battery boxes with switch on amazon and some 1K pots. Hoping to build a couple of these for my son and I for 3D


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

letting this to the pro's!! Ordered one from redruff. excited to try it out.


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

WELL.....
I ordered a sight light from 'Ruff' and I must say it is awesome!!! The man thought of everything in its construction!! 
I can weld anything but electronics are foreign to me, I made the right decision in having a PRO build mine!!!


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## cavyboxhunter (Feb 1, 2012)

Tagged


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## klean1 (Jan 14, 2012)

I got mine built. It was easy. Found cheapy 9v box on ebay. Ordered prewired light on ebay and shrink tube. Wired in a 1k pot and it works great!


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## josh1974 (May 25, 2014)

Where do I order one of these?


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## jbacon1340 (Oct 29, 2013)

josh1974 said:


> Where do I order one of these?


What specifically are you looking for, parts or assembled unit

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## Moonshine_Spaz (Aug 8, 2015)

jbacon1340 said:


> What specifically are you looking for, parts or assembled unit
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


Already for it Now but thanx

Sent from my LG-H343 using Tapatalk


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## josh1974 (May 25, 2014)

jbacon1340 said:


> What specifically are you looking for, parts or assembled unit
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


I would like to have an assembled unit, I thought I read one could be purchased from Redruff. Is this still the case?


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## jbacon1340 (Oct 29, 2013)

I have made several 9v battery versions, now trying to find a smaller case for Cr123 battery


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## jjb7227 (Jan 25, 2016)

Would any one care to make a couple of these for me ? I'll buy them thanx tired of little dam batteries they Cost me my last tournament


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

jjb7227 said:


> Would any one care to make a couple of these for me ? I'll buy them thanx tired of little dam batteries they Cost me my last tournament


Contact Redruff http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/member.php?u=27444


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## HOYT5MAN (Dec 10, 2003)

I second the recommendation for Redruff. Here's the light he made me mounted on my new Defiant.


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## josh1974 (May 25, 2014)

Just my 2 cents, I love the light Bill. https://www.facebook.com/josh.wyatt74/videos/1292732107407283/


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

josh1974 said:


> Just my 2 cents, I love the light Bill. https://www.facebook.com/josh.wyatt74/videos/1292732107407283/


Thank you for the kind words. Wow that looks good on that bow, if I do say so myself!


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## josh1974 (May 25, 2014)

Yes sir it does, I think you are going to sell a few more also. LOL


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

finally figured out a good way to do the 7/16 size! That was a tough one to figure out!!


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## MandK (Jul 29, 2013)

tag


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

I finally took the time to design up a bare fiber attachment. The inside hole is tapered so it grabs onto the fiber housing as you push it in.
The bare fiber attachment fits over a 1/4-28 threaded piece so if you have another site with that size hole its a two'fer.


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## Huntprn (Jan 19, 2016)

Has anyone tried to build this light powered with a rechargeable USB power source. I am talking about the type you would use to power or charge a phone, then recharges with USB type charger.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Swamp archer (Oct 22, 2015)

Cool design


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## Swamp archer (Oct 22, 2015)

I might try this out sometime


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## DA_DOGG14 (Jul 24, 2009)

sent you an order via PM Redruff


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Huntprn said:


> Has anyone tried to build this light powered with a rechargeable USB power source. I am talking about the type you would use to power or charge a phone, then recharges with USB type charger.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Yes, adds a lot to circuitry, and in a hunting situation, I thought better to swap batteries than have to recharge.


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## Huntprn (Jan 19, 2016)

redruff said:


> Yes, adds a lot to circuitry, and in a hunting situation, I thought better to swap batteries than have to recharge.


Yes that is a good point. Keeping it simple! 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Huntprn (Jan 19, 2016)

Where did you get the colored covering for the wire?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

Bill makes awesome lights!!!! Mine hasn't gotten used much since field season has started but it worked awesome with my .010 fiber inside!! Still waiting to see how long the battery lasts.....


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## squid013 (Jan 12, 2014)

Bill hooked me up

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

I have couple questions. The regular LED light for sight uses 4.5V led right? Why a lot of you went with 9V led? Also do I need to add resistor if I will use 4.5V led with potentiometer?


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## Huntprn (Jan 19, 2016)

Outsider said:


> I have couple questions. The regular LED light for sight uses 4.5V led right? Why a lot of you went with 9V led? Also do I need to add resistor if I will use 4.5V led with potentiometer?


Just to clarify...the LED is rated for 3.5 volts. The source of power is the 9volt battery or the 4.5V source you have referred to. The reason the 9 V was used was for the simplicity and availability of the battery(see a few posts back). I am not an expert, and anyone feel free to correct me if I am not correct, but from experience of burning up LED's, yes you should use the resistor if the power source is great than the rating of the LED. Hope this helped!

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Outsider (Aug 16, 2011)

Huntprn said:


> Just to clarify...the LED is rated for 3.5 volts. The source of power is the 9volt battery or the 4.5V source you have referred to. The reason the 9 V was used was for the simplicity and availability of the battery(see a few posts back). I am not an expert, and anyone feel free to correct me if I am not correct, but from experience of burning up LED's, yes you should use the resistor if the power source is great than the rating of the LED. Hope this helped!
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


In regular widely available LED sight light they use 3 x 1.5V batteries which gave 4.5V. Since the LED is rated at 3.5V as you stated they put a resistor in those small enclosures?


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## Bowpro-295 (Jul 30, 2013)

Tagged


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Outsider said:


> In regular widely available LED sight light they use 3 x 1.5V batteries which gave 4.5V. Since the LED is rated at 3.5V as you stated they put a resistor in those small enclosures?
> View attachment 4518257


It's not just voltage it's voltage, current and resistance. Ohm's law.


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## Skunkworkx (Apr 2, 2011)

I did some dash upgrades in my Camaro and bought a 5-pack of 12v LEDs...only needing 3, I'm thinking of building one of these for a low light/overcast day.
Should I be OK using a 9v battery with a 12v LED....tests in garage shows good, but unsure if I'd need anything more than the battery, box, switch, and LED ?

LIKE THESE


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## Nevada-Smith (Jan 12, 2017)

Huntprn said:


> Where did you get the colored covering for the wire?


One source is DigiKey.com

Stuff is called Wire Loom or Expandable Sleeving

http://www.digikey.com/products/en/...t=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

and

http://www.digikey.com/products/en/...t=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

Cover the end(s) with heat shrink tubing

(For large diameter cables, zip-tie the end(s) and then cover with heat shrink tubing)


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## Nevada-Smith (Jan 12, 2017)

See also http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/braided-sleeving-colored-pet-96 

P.S. a.k.a Braided Sleeving


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Nevada-Smith said:


> See also http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/braided-sleeving-colored-pet-96
> 
> P.S. a.k.a Braided Sleeving


Great source thank you.
It's funny when I first saw that colored covering in one of the posts I thought it was a gutted parachute cord. I suppose a gutted cord would work too for such a short run.


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## Nevada-Smith (Jan 12, 2017)

Here's another suggestion--if you or someone you know is junking an old PC, disconnect and remove the connectors/wires/LEDs that run from the motherboard to the front panel. (I.e., the hard disk drive (HDD LED) and the Power LED indicators.)

You'll end up with assemblies like these:









You'll still need a resistor (or resistor + potentiometer) to limit the current.


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## Moparman340 (Dec 31, 2011)

I want to take a moment to thank Redruff for making a awesome light. I Absolutely love it!


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Moparman340 said:


> I want to take a moment to thank Redruff for making a awesome light. I Absolutely love it!


Thank you! I hope you get a lot of years out of it!


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## tonysbowstrings (Sep 22, 2012)

whats the price of this light kit guys?


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## squid013 (Jan 12, 2014)

redruff said:


> Thank you! I hope you get a lot of years out of it!


Mine is still going strong especially after the minor design modification. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


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## sapper17 (Aug 26, 2010)

Awesome Idea!


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## sevanseriesta (Jul 7, 2017)

Tagged, sorry I'm new to the forum sorry to bring this to the top.


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Here is the latest version...


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