# anyone use a center shot gauge?



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

First, all center shot guages are no better thann for getting center shot in the ball park. Eye balling has proven as effective if not better in most cases.
What I do; Arrow nocked and on rest. Align the bow string to the groove of the top wheel or cam. Keeping string/groove aligned as best as possible move the rest so the arrow aligns to the string/groove alignment. Might take some trial and error, but the eye balling center shot works.
The shop I work at has the Easy Eye laser and all it does is collect dust. Most expensive worthless archery tool we have.


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

I've tested my eye against a laser before. On several bows I set the rest by eye and then put the laser on to check. They were so close that I've never even thought to use the laser again. Save yourself some time and money and just eyeball it. Do enough and you'll get really good. Then let shooting and tuning tell you where it needs to be.


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## tialloydragon (Mar 14, 2013)

I use a center shot gauge because I believe it is easier to use a tool designed for the task than it is to eyeball it, and I have been surprisingly accurate with it despite my limited experience. YMMV

If you could post a pic it might be helpful. What bow are you trying to set up?


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## newbowthunder (Jan 21, 2012)

Ill post pics this evening thanks for the input.. The bow is a lh bear legion


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

tialloydragon said:


> I use a center shot gauge because I believe it is easier to use a tool designed for the task than it is to eyeball it, and I have been surprisingly accurate with it despite my limited experience. YMMV
> 
> If you could post a pic it might be helpful. What bow are you trying to set up?


Try it on a cast riser or a riser of a older bow. You be lucky the laser beam is pointin on the correct side of the riser. Some risers even today won't let a Easy Eye laser seat to the riser correctly.


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## tialloydragon (Mar 14, 2013)

SonnyThomas said:


> Try it on a cast riser or a riser of a older bow. You be lucky the laser beam is pointin on the correct side of the riser. Some risers even today won't let a Easy Eye laser seat to the riser correctly.


To clarify, the gauge I use is the bent rod type like the OP is using.

This video shows how it is used (for anyone who is not already familiar with it what it looks like or how it works):

http://youtu.be/hTTd3jYEd_Q

It works on any bow with a flat spot on the riser opposite the rest against which you can place the gauge.

My Hoyt Rampage has a cast riser, and I used it to successfully install a "modern" rest on my friend's Jennings from the early 90's.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

tialloydragon said:


> To clarify, the gauge I use is the bent rod type like the OP is using.
> 
> This video shows how it is used (for anyone who is not already familiar with it what it looks like or how it works):
> 
> ...


Same difference. I've got 2 of those in my archery collection junk box along with 2 or 3 other center shot gauges of different make. What it is, risers are not all created equal. Cast riser are just that, cast, not machined for square. Machined risers are better, but then stack up all the tolerances and you'll be good just to be in the ball park of center shot. And then the orange peel paint jobs are pretty rough and uneven. In 10 years of setting up bows I've had 2 bows that a laser actually gave good center shot. 
It works on any bow with a flat spot on the riser opposite the rest against which you can place the gauge.

If you read some of the set up procedures you'll not some just lay a arrow across the inside of the riser running parallel to a nocked arrow. Then the rest is moved to give what should be ideal parallelism. Again, if the riser isn't machined or machined square, center shot will be off. 

Another method is to use a long stabilizer and move the rest so the arrow runs true to the long stabiliizer. I also have the double rubber band. This has two short allens with "wings." The allens fit in the limb bolts. A large rubber band is stretched over the wings of the upper and lower wings on the allens. The rest is moved to center the arrow between the rubber bands.

There are other center shot tools available. One is far more expensive than the Easy Eye and more complicated, but said to be the best on the market.


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

tialloydragon said:


> I use a center shot gauge because I believe it is easier to use a tool designed for the task than it is to eyeball it, and I have been surprisingly accurate with it despite my limited experience. YMMV
> 
> If you could post a pic it might be helpful. What bow are you trying to set up?


AND after you use the tool you go on about your tuning and very possibly have to move the rest a little bit too, more often than not you will adjust it a little one way or another. thats why i never waste time on them. cause tuning will get bow all dialed in, not a centershot tool...

i think its easy to eyeball, specially when you have a longer stab on and just look down the bow and from the back also.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

be careful about using an arrow against a long stabilizer rod...not all holes are straight.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Fury90flier said:


> be careful about using an arrow against a long stabilizer rod...not all holes are straight.


You are correct. I have one such bow, but the stabilizer being off doesn't effect it's superb accuracy.


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## newbowthunder (Jan 21, 2012)

really like the feedback i been receiving .. here are the pics of my bow maybe you guys can help me out


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## jdicenhour (Feb 23, 2012)

I use a pair of calipers most companies give you the centershot then all you do is divide arrow diameter in half add it to centershot measurement an measure distance from outer edge of arrow to the riser an this gets you really close to having the prefect centershot 

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2


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## Praeger (Jan 7, 2011)

I just set by eye using cams as a reference, then start walk back tuning.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Left handed bow.... From what the pictures show your arrow is too far out from the riser.


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## newbowthunder (Jan 21, 2012)

Ill move it back in. I swear I been getting cross eyed from starring to hard.man learning to tune a bow is frustrAting haha


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## jdicenhour (Feb 23, 2012)

Reason your eyeballing ain't working is because you looking at it wrong. Your tweaking the bow. Look straight down the stabilizer like someone had it pointed at the middle of your chest or right been your eyes then I think you'll see your problems 

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

newbowthunder said:


> Ill move it back in. I swear I been getting cross eyed from starring to hard.man learning to tune a bow is frustrAting haha


Try this, same I as replied. You do this from behind the bow string, not the way you have pictured;
What I do; Arrow nocked and on rest. Align the bow string to the groove of the top wheel or cam. Keeping string/groove aligned as best as possible move the rest so the arrow aligns to the string/groove alignment. Might take some trial and error, but the eye balling center shot works.

Above said, you have a single cam bow. You can also try this; The top wheel is more aligned the riser. Align the string from the top of the wheel, down the center of the upper part of the riser. Then move rest to align the arrow to this and you'll be in the ball park.


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## Praeger (Jan 7, 2011)

SonnyThomas said:


> Try this, same I as replied. You do this from behind the bow string, not the way you have pictured;
> What I do; Arrow nocked and on rest. Align the bow string to the groove of the top wheel or cam. Keeping string/groove aligned as best as possible move the rest so the arrow aligns to the string/groove alignment. Might take some trial and error, but the eye balling center shot works.
> 
> Above said, you have a single cam bow. You can also try this; The top wheel is more aligned the riser. Align the string from the top of the wheel, down the center of the upper part of the riser. Then move rest to align the arrow to this and you'll be in the ball park.


Just follow Sonny's instructions. All you want to do is get in the ball park by eye balling it - this is just so you hit the target when you start walk back tuning. 

You'll be progressively making small, refining adjustments during the walk back tuning process, until your last adjustments barely move the rest. (Actually, your second to last adjustment should be one click too far. Your last adjustment moves it back to your true dynamic center shot). Don't try to get it perfect by eye ball - you won't.


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## newbowthunder (Jan 21, 2012)

Will Do. Thanks ill update ths thread with my results.


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## DMP (Dec 22, 2003)

Center Shot Guage, Eze Eye Lazer haven't pulled them out of the drawer for years. Most bows I tune I measure 3/4" to 13/16" from the riser (the back part nearest the rest) to the center of the arrow - this gives a quick centershot on virtually all bows, quick check shooting through paper and then walk back tune. Rarely have to adjust more than a few thou of an inch - Try It!


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## glrjola4 (Feb 2, 2006)

I will receive for free all "collect dust" stuff (including Eze Eye Lazer) u have around !!!


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

glrjola4 said:


> I will receive for free all "collect dust" stuff (including Eze Eye Lazer) u have around !!!


Our Easy Eye has us moving the rest so the arrow is near up against the riser. Has from day one. Rarely, real rarely will it give a good center shot position. Company has now requested it back to have inspected..... Might have 4 going back all at once as two other shops have poor results also.


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