# Drenalin Timing HELP!!!



## link06 (Mar 3, 2008)

I put a new set of strings on my drenalin,and tuned it to the best of my knowledge. The only part I'm having trouble with is my cam timing, it looks way off and the bow is really loud now. Can anyone explain how to adjust the timing, I know the holes should be paralell to my string but how do I get it to that point. Also could this be the reason it is so loud now? Thanks


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## SA_ArcheryGuy (Jan 22, 2009)

The loudness could be a series of things. I would only worry about the timing at this point, that could possibly take care of both problems. The first thing, you should be certain that the new string and cable are the correct length. This is the first and foremost important thing. Looking at the timing holes, they should line up parallel with the string. Measure your bow ATA and it should measure 33". If not, that will tell you if the string or cable need to be twisted or if they are to tight. Good Luck!


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## Huntin' Momma (Jul 15, 2007)

*drenalin timing*

there are two small holes on the bottom cam. Take a long straight edge ( something that reaches from axle to axle) line the two small holes up with the straight edge. Now look at the other end of the bow and the end of the straight edge should be 1/4 inch from the center of the cam pin. This means your bow is in time.


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## bassman409 (Jul 19, 2006)

Noise is probably a combination of the timing being off and the string being too loose. Squeeze the string toward the riser and watch the cam holes and you will see if they get better or worse as far as being parallel with the string. As SA said , use the cable to get your a-a close and then the string to line up your cam.


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## arrowshooters (Jun 5, 2006)

Make sure that your A to A is on.

Get a piece of string (I use serving) put a loop in it and pass it between the cam and limb then through the outside hole in the cam. Put a small allen through the loop then pull it tight back through the cam. 

Stretch the string the length of the bow so the it crosses the center of the inside hole. Measure the distance between this string and the Bow string close to the cam and then close to the idler wheel. 

If the measurement is shorter at the idler end you need to twist the string. If it is longer you need to twist the cable.


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## link06 (Mar 3, 2008)

Thanks for the input, I'm going to twist my cables and see if this helps. The measurement looks to be quite a bit longer at the idler wheel. My A to A is right on and so is my BH.Thanks again


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## arrowshooters (Jun 5, 2006)

If it is "quite a bit off" recheck your AtoA when you are done. If it became smaller you will need to take some of what you put into the cable out then take some twist our of the string to maintain your AtoA and Timing. It just takes time and patience.:wink:


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## arrowshooters (Jun 5, 2006)

You all set now?


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## link06 (Mar 3, 2008)

I got my cam timed right, now if it will ever stop raining maybe I can shoot it.Thanks for all the help much appreciated.


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## arrowshooters (Jun 5, 2006)

:thumbs_up


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

heres pics of cam timing for all mathews

http://forums.mathewsinc.com/viewtopic.php?t=40837


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## bowcrzy39 (Mar 17, 2008)

go to -lawler outdoors-, simple instructions on how to time a matthews!


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## Macmathews (Jul 24, 2007)

**



arrowshooters said:


> Make sure that your A to A is on.
> 
> Get a piece of string (I use serving) put a loop in it and pass it between the cam and limb then through the outside hole in the cam. Put a small allen through the loop then pull it tight back through the cam.
> 
> ...


 Great instructions !!

Kyle


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## lonewolf987 (Feb 17, 2009)

i'm new to archery talk and am still trying to figure out how this all works. how do i get posts so i can send messages to other users?


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## stormdogg (Oct 20, 2006)

*mathews timing*

all of the posts responding to your question are pretty much correct,just remember: mathews( and ross) boww will will give a better cam rotation reading if the limbs are maxed out, so ntake a reading where your bow is set at (poundage), max limb bolts, use string technic to make timing holes parrallel to bow string, then losen back to your preferred draw weight, also , i like to use a straight edge ( usuallaly a straight arrow, lay it across the idler wheel and see how far above the bow string it lays, it should lay 1/8" above bow string at the nocking point, further questions: windwalker archery @yahoo.com,attn-dan, mathews tech, hope this helps


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## PPAS (Jul 17, 2007)

This is a very good thread, I just bought a new LD and it was way out of spec. I've got the idler wheel lean set exactly 1/8" of the string now, and the ata is now exactly 37", and the cam timing set just as shown in the link above. I was having a left tear and noticable fish tail in the arrow flight (very frustrating). I'll see how everything paper tunes and shoots tonight. I'll keep my fingers crossed.:embara:


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## PPAS (Jul 17, 2007)

Things are definatley looking better, the bow shot almost a perfect bullet hole the first go round with a bare shaft. A little more adjustment and everything was perfect through paper. I started walk back tuning and found that string and cable was still stretching. Maybe another 100 shots and I'll be ready for a final tuning I have heard a new string and cable needs about 200 shots before the stretch settles in.


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## little dan (Feb 12, 2009)

Hey Bowkill, when you set up idler lean with arrow, did you lay arrow flat on shelf side of bow or quiver side of bow. In Vinces tuning it says bow arm side little  on what side he ment by. I did mine on the shelf side, thanks in advance.


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## PPAS (Jul 17, 2007)

For a right handed bow lay the arrow on the left side of the wheel, it is the opposite for a left handed bow.


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## BuckFever200 (Jun 30, 2007)

Here ya go :thumb:


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