# New to tuning compound; bareshaft tuning led to my rest being 1/2" left of centershot



## showard321 (Feb 11, 2011)

Is draw length correct?


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## farside05 (Mar 22, 2014)

Bareshafts left is an indication of your right/release side forearm pointed left of target. Bareshafts tend to go where your release forearm points. Your draw length being too short can cause the left pointed forearm. Try lengthening your draw length and work on getting your elbow further around behind your head, causing your forearm to point down the target line. I too had a 15-20 inch miss left with bareshafts. Still working on it. I don't seem to have as much flexibility in my right shoulder to get it exactly down the line, but my bareshaft left miss is now down to 5 inches. I'm in the process of loosing some weight and working on flexibility. Hopefully come spring they will be grouping better.


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## gofor (Feb 4, 2013)

Grip is also a factor. Just by altering my grip, just slight thumb or forefinger side pressure, I can change the poi of a bareshaft at least 12" on either side of the bull at 20 yds. At full draw looking through the peep, I tried just touching my thumb and forefinger tips together on my bow hand. As I did, I could see the bow torque counter-clockwise. Relaxing the hand I could see it rotate the other way. Relaxing my hand too much, or getting the bottom of the grip too far into the crease of my hand resulted in string slap on my forearm (there was no string stop on this bow). For me (and everyone's hands are different in shape, amount of meat below the thumb, etc), getting the center of the grip parallel to and about 3/4" away from the crease that runs from the base of the forefinger to the heel of the hand gets me the best results of bareshaft/fletch shafts.

On my PSE bow, with a quite narrow grip that was flat on the back side (hand contact side), I could get 3 bareshafts in the same set to hit within an inch of each other sometimes, but others I was getting a 6" spread. I wrapped the grip with grip tape like used on tennis rackets, and was able to get consistent results because I could get my hand to set the same repeatedly. Just a little difference in grip made a big difference in bareshaft poi. So, after wrapping the grip, I reset my centershot back to zero adn found I was gettign bareshafts and fletched hittiing together. The grip onb my Elite Answer is a little fatter and more rounded, and seems to naturally fit my hand better without the need for wrappng it.

My point is that you may want to experiment with your grip before doing any major changing of your rest position. If you can get someone to stand behind you to see if the string is coming off the cams at an angle while you are holdoing at full draw, and the bow rotates when you release, you may have an idea if that is the problem. If you have a long front stab, that can also show you if you are torquing.

As for the rest seeming to work better by moving it in the "wrong" direction, I have found that to be true when shooting a whisker biscuit. Because a WB is in full contact with the arrow for the entire length of the power stroke, any torque can cause it to get thrown in the opposite direction it was pointing when at full draw. With a WB, I have found it best to move it one way and then the other to see which gives best results. Do not know if this applies to you and your bow.

Just some thoughts about things to try in addition to the other advise. A poor-fitting draw length can also lead to torquing as well as grip.

JMTCW

Go


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## OzarkBowman (Aug 12, 2014)

Thanks for the replies, I didn't get a chance to shoot today but did record myself at full draw and it looks like my forearm is pointing slightly left even though I really tried to bring it straight back. I thought I could adjust the draw but by changing a peg on the bottom modul but after reading up on it, I believe I would have to order different modules to change draw length... Not very convenient I guess I will try having someone watch me shoot with the rest closer to center shot and see if they can see I'm torquing the the bow before I spend money on changing my draw length, although 27" did sound short when the guy at the pro shop told me that was my draw.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

A bow that is set-up perfectly for a level shot can start to feel uncomfortably long when you add some angles into the mix. Most of the bows I see sold out of the shops around here are at least 1/2" long for the owner, so if it feels just a little cramped then your shop may have it just right.

-Grant


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## SlickNickel (Jul 14, 2014)

If form and grip are sound and repeatable, the. You can move the arrow back to the correct center shot, and yoke tune, but you need a press. What you found is absolutely correct and most people have it wrong. Bare shafts hitting left of fletched would indicate a right tear through paper, which you fix by moving the rest left or adding twists to the right side of the y cable and removing twists from the left side of the yoke cable. 

Move rest where the arrow is centered. Shoot bare and fletched shafts. Left bare shaft impact, add twists to the right yoke leg and remove the same amount of twists from the left side that you add to the right side. This helps to keep cams synched, but you will still need to check when finished to make sure that cams are still in synch.


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## Astroguy (Oct 11, 2013)

I would back it off to 60# and start over with the rest inline with the cams. Tune the bow to the arrow. The Bow may be to hot and require a .300 spine. 

Its good to be aware of your form and the side affects of a bad shot. But I think you might have a weak shaft. I went thru similar trouble with my PSE Freak Max, when I calculated the spine needed incorrectly.


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