# DIY Home-made Stabilizer Thread



## Ricky 2feathers

Looks Good! Here is mine I made from PVC for my 3D Shooter I am Building! It is 24" Long and is filled with packing peanuts. Works great!!


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## DubVBoy

Nice...I'm actually digging the look of the one I built and now I'm thinking of building a complete set (main stab and side-mount balancers) and was debating on using PVC tubing instead of the broom/mop handle. The handle worked out great for her, but I think the extra weight of the PVC piping might benefit me more than the lite handle.


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## Ricky 2feathers

You can also do one out of a Metal or aluminum hollow broom handle and fill in with spray in foam. I have also seen them made out of aluminum arrows and filled with the spray in foam. Getting a lot more technical though doing one of those! You also built it with screw on weights at the front of the stabilizer, just by putting another bolt through the end cap to place washers on for weight! I was thinking about making some rubber coated weights to go on the front so I could adjust the weight out as needed!


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## 724wd

like this? :wink:

XX75 2117 arrows filled with expanding foam for the stabilizer, XX75 2219's filled for the side rod. Cartel shock absorber/weights. fender washers from ACE with a 5/16x24 welded in one end, a 1/4x20 in the other. looking forward to shooting it as the weather allows!


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## alarmguy38

Here's mine. Aluminum tube from lowes carbon fiber wrap from autozone and the skull end cap...


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## foamkiller15

PUt antlers on the skull lol


alarmguy38 said:


> View attachment 1314606
> 
> 
> Here's mine. Aluminum tube from lowes carbon fiber wrap from autozone and the skull end cap...


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## onyx48166

Anybody ever try these???
http://www.shop.hi-teksportsstore.com/STABILIZER-KIT-TARGET-TK-1.htm?productId=17


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## Ricky 2feathers

724wd said:


> like this? :wink:
> 
> XX75 2117 arrows filled with expanding foam for the stabilizer, XX75 2219's filled for the side rod. Cartel shock absorber/weights. fender washers from ACE with a 5/16x24 welded in one end, a 1/4x20 in the other. looking forward to shooting it as the weather allows!


Yep, That is the one that I liked most, of all I have seen!! You did an Awesome Job on it!! Did you just use inserts on both ends to make your plates to be able to be attached to your arrows? Then put on the Cartel Shock Absorber/ weights? :thumbs_up


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## TennJeep1618

Made this one out of copper tubing filled with silicone.


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## 724wd

Ricky 2feathers said:


> Yep, That is the one that I liked most, of all I have seen!! You did an Awesome Job on it!! Did you just use inserts on both ends to make your plates to be able to be attached to your arrows? Then put on the Cartel Shock Absorber/ weights? :thumbs_up



Thanks! it was a fun little experiment. they're not super rigid, so i'll have to see how they shoot before i can fully endorse this method. Yes, there are inserts on both ends of the arrow shafts. I bought the 1inch 8x32 screws at ACE. Gotta make sure the shafts are all the EXACT same length so there's no binding. Welding the 5/16x24 and 1/4x20 bolts on the ends for the weights and riser mount isn't completely necessary, as you could just use a nut to hold them through the fender washer. i decided on welding to reduce mass weight - two less nuts.


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## 724wd

for those using PVC, are you using SCH20 or SCH40?


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## Ricky 2feathers

I used 1/2" Sch 40. The thinwall does not carry enough weight and is to flimsy and vibrates to much after the shoot!


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## DubVBoy

Going to head to Ace Hardware tomorrow to get ideas on a custom stab for myself....not sure how it's going to turn out, but I'm gonna go crazy with the design, lol.


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## 724wd

this one came from ACE as well. an 18" chrome drain pipe with machined aluminum end caps held together with a threaded rod down the middle covered by a 2219 in autumn orange ( i love the color of those arrows!)


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## DubVBoy

724wd said:


> this one came from ACE as well. an 18" chrome drain pipe with machined aluminum end caps held together with a threaded rod down the middle covered by a 2219 in autumn orange ( i love the color of those arrows!)


Wow...that looks awesome....almost like an old air cooled sub-machine gun. Is the threaded rod the same thread pitch as the stabilizer mount?


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## 724wd

no. i bought a very small threaded rod and tapped the aluminums 5/16x24 and 1/4x20 on the ends and 8xsomething (the threads of the threaded rod) on the insides.


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## Ricky 2feathers

Very Sharp!! Like that design also!! Who would have ever thought a Drain pipe could look so good!!:thumbs_up


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## HawgEnvy

TennJeep1618 said:


> Made this one out of copper tubing filled with silicone.


I started on one before season using silicone inside of an aluminum jack handle from a mini floor jack


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## ruthless79

*My attempt at one*

Here is mine


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## timmer90

*my first stab*

Here is my first stab, haven't shot with it yet may have to add some shock absorbers to it also may have to shorten it


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## pumpkineater

I made this with sc 40 pvc 3/4" has a crackle finish to it the yellow is more green but still looks good..


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## 724wd

timmer90 said:


> Here is my first stab, haven't shot with it yet may have to add some shock absorbers to it also may have to shorten it


very interesting! wht can you tell us about it?


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## timmer90

724wd said:


> very interesting! wht can you tell us about it?


I used carbon arrows that where broken and I found a piece of aluminum octagon shaped for both ends I picked up carbon fiber vinyl to match my bow. I looks good might be big for me though.
I drilled holes in both ends for the arrows to fit in and thread front piece of aluminum to tighten the arrows in place. i may have to put sylicone into the arrow for dampening.


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## pumpkineater

Where did you get the skull head?


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## Ricky 2feathers

I believe he said he got it at autozone along with the Carbon wraps!


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## alarmguy38

Thats correct. autozone. Adds just the amount of weight i needed..


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## TheHunter831

Made mine from PVC and PVC end caps....added 4 o-rings to help with lessening vibration.....filled it with packing popcorn and a few nuts at the end for wight....then sprayed it with Plasti Dip.


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## pdgilbert

onyx48166 said:


> Anybody ever try these???
> http://www.shop.hi-teksportsstore.com/STABILIZER-KIT-TARGET-TK-1.htm?productId=17


Yes. I made two side stabilizers out of them, each 12" long, and put Bernie's weights on the end ( left over from old stabs ) 2 oz on one side, 1 on the other for my target bow. They lasted about a week before my bow shook them to pieces. I re-glued the inserts in the shafts, put it all back together, shook them apart again. They might work for bows with less vibration, but I'm replacing mine with some b-stingers. Fortunately, the kits are cheap, so I'm not terribly upset they didn't work out.

Of course, I may have just glued them poorly


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## 724wd

thehunter831, instead of o-rings for vibration reduction, try perusing adam & eve dot com for some... umm... "rooster" ring marital aids! you get 6 for about $14 and they come in neat colors! :wink: on my chrome drain pipe stab, you can see them...


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## foamkiller15

wha did you put on the end as a dish? I am building the same one and was tryin to figure somthin out.


ruthless79 said:


> Here is mine


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## ruthless79

foamkiller15 said:


> wha did you put on the end as a dish? I am building the same one and was tryin to figure somthin out.


Here is my build thread http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1721895 but to answer your question it is a 1/2" floor plate you can get at any hardware store


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## rdhj

Any ideas what i can use as a 14 oz weight or so like the b stingers that i can screw onto my home made stab


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## ruthless79

2 of the 3/4" floor plates should get you there. or one 3/4 plate with a cap and some lead shot in epoxy


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## alarmguy38

foamkiller15 said:


> PUt antlers on the skull lol











Here's the Antlers... lol


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## ruthless79

alarmguy38 said:


> View attachment 1323036
> 
> 
> Here's the Antlers... lol


That's funny lmao


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## Continuous

hey 724 you shoot that orange stabilizer setup of yours yet really wanna hear how it works so I can decide if I want to make a setup like that myself.


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## pooch692000

here is my home depot stab. 3/4" pvc stuffed with copper pipe insulation material. Works great in holding my gro pro camera too...












got videos that am uploading too from stabilizer


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## shot2deer

Try using ground up rubber inside the stabilizer. You can find it at a tire store when people run there tires flat. It grinds down the inside of the tire. Used it in some of mine works good for a dampener.


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## mathews xt 600

Ttt


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## cois

What would be the best weight for the stabilizer??


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## 724wd

Continuous said:


> hey 724 you shoot that orange stabilizer setup of yours yet really wanna hear how it works so I can decide if I want to make a setup like that myself.


not yet! rain, rain, rain! and my wider blades haven't shown up from Brite Site. and i tipped the bow over at an outdoor show our club was at and cracked the weld on the sidebar... SOON, though! I promise!


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## ruthless79

cois said:


> What would be the best weight for the stabilizer??


What ever you find that feels the best for you. How long are you going to make it?


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## Martin_Shooter1

I always thought them long stabilizers were weighty. I have never picked one up myself. And I see you guys are building these out of pvc and packing peanuts? What the heck. Someone explain to me how a stabilizer works cause I thought they had to have a little more weight than that to have any effect. I don't currently shoot a stab. The last one I had was one of those short Cobra hunting ones and it was heavy. The short one that came on my wifes Razors edge bow does not weigh much at all. I am thinking of getting a new one though and I love to do things myself.


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## ruthless79

Martin_Shooter1 said:


> I always thought them long stabilizers were weighty. I have never picked one up myself. And I see you guys are building these out of pvc and packing peanuts? What the heck. Someone explain to me how a stabilizer works cause I thought they had to have a little more weight than that to have any effect. I don't currently shoot a stab. The last one I had was one of those short Cobra hunting ones and it was heavy. The short one that came on my wifes Razors edge bow does not weigh much at all. I am thinking of getting a new one though and I love to do things myself.


Heavy weight closer to the riser works the same way as having less weight further away. think teeter totter or fulcrum point if you will. So basically you don't need as much weight on the target stabilizers to balance the bow but the longer stabilizer gives a more stable feel then the shorter ones. hope that makes sense.


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## ruthless79

Martin_Shooter1 said:


> I always thought them long stabilizers were weighty. I have never picked one up myself. And I see you guys are building these out of pvc and packing peanuts? What the heck. Someone explain to me how a stabilizer works cause I thought they had to have a little more weight than that to have any effect. I don't currently shoot a stab. The last one I had was one of those short Cobra hunting ones and it was heavy. The short one that came on my wifes Razors edge bow does not weigh much at all. I am thinking of getting a new one though and I love to do things myself.


Maybe this will explain it better http://www.ehow.com/how-does_5367492_bow-stabilizer-works.html


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## Martin_Shooter1

ruthless79 said:


> Heavy weight closer to the riser works the same way as having less weight further away. think teeter totter or fulcrum point if you will. So basically you don't need as much weight on the target stabilizers to balance the bow but the longer stabilizer gives a more stable feel then the shorter ones. hope that makes sense.


Yea I understand what you are saying. I understand the principals of physics and geometry ect. I meant that even though they were longer, I just couldn't see a piece of PVC pipe filled with styrofoam peanuts weighing hardly anything at all. I always figured those long target stabilizers at least weighed 1 LB or 1 1/2 LB. I can't see some of these Plastic jobs weighing a couple ounces. But I am sure I am wrong. I am looking to build one for target shooting myself. But i think I am gonna play around with aluminum tube for rigidity.


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## ruthless79

Martin_Shooter1 said:


> Yea I understand what you are saying. I understand the principals of physics and geometry ect. I meant that even though they were longer, I just couldn't see a piece of PVC pipe filled with styrofoam peanuts weighing hardly anything at all. I always figured those long target stabilizers at least weighed 1 LB or 1 1/2 LB. I can't see some of these Plastic jobs weighing a couple ounces. But I am sure I am wrong. I am looking to build one for target shooting myself. But i think I am gonna play around with aluminum tube for rigidity.


You could also try schedule 80 pvc


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## Martin_Shooter1

ruthless79 said:


> You could also try schedule 80 pvc


Whats that?


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## ruthless79

Martin_Shooter1 said:


> Whats that?


It is a thicker walled heavier pvc. That is what I built mine from.


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## Jimmysworking

I don't think you need to have the stab weigh 1-1.5 lbs to be effective. Even at relatively short length many archers are sering benefits from half that weight. Using some of these designs you don't have to invest much to experiment with different weights and lengths.


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## cncjerry

I think I am about done. I've built so many stabilizer parts and adapters over the past 6 months my family thinks I have OCD.

This is the final design. I made a special adapter to enable me to use the keyed hole below the stabilizer available on some of the Mathews bows. I made a number of v-bars before I saw the hole, duh. The key is connected to a cylinder that goes thru the bow and protects both the outside and inside of the riser. I used a nylon washer on the side with my heavy-duty knuckles. I wanted the knuckles heavy so it stablizes quickly. They are keyed on the side where they connect by a 5/8ths stub with room for a 5/8th star washer as well. I also made both of the bolts, including the allen head, first time I tried broaching an allen head bolt and it came out OK. The black tube is 3/4" epoxy fiber available from Tap Plastics. It is very strong, light and costs much less than carbon fiber at $15.75 for 5ft. The tube is 19mm, not a full 3/4" so I make custom end caps out of 1" aluminum sized to fit with gel super glue. I've made a bunch of the end caps for different people. The weights are tapped 1 1/2" diameter stainless and weigh about 2oz per. 

I think we are all coming to the conclusion that stabilizers shouldn't cost an arm and a leg! The 32" stabilizer cost me $3 for the tube and about $1 for the end caps. The 14" stab was about $2, clearly not including labor, machine, etc.


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## xmattedgex

Dang!! Can I just buy a set from you!!
And you're absolutely right, they shouldn't cost an arm and a leg, I'm glad people are doing this .


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## Durhampro

DubVBoy said:


> xmattedgex's recent build video gave me the idea to make a 3D stabilizer for my girlfriend's bow and thought maybe the forum needed a thread dedicated to eveyone's stabilizer/dampner builds.
> 
> Post 'em up!
> 
> Here's the one I just finished for my girl...made it out of a $3 broom from The Dollar Store, some oil filter grommets and vacuum caps from the auto parts store and stuffed it with strips of absorbent matting that we have at work...so far it looks the part, can't wait till she can try it out at the range.



I just have to ask, (not that I know your girlfriend) but when she finishes shooting can/does she unscrew the stabilizer and fly it home?


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## Martin_Shooter1

Durhampro said:


> I just have to ask, (not that I know your girlfriend) but when she finishes shooting can/does she unscrew the stabilizer and fly it home?


:mg:


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## Durhampro

OK so it's my turn. Here is one of the sets that I made. Aluminum rod drilled and tapped with Carbon arrows for length and steel weights on the end for balance. Shoots like a dream, steady as a rock.


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## Martin_Shooter1

Nice! Gonna put mine to shame whenever I get ready to start. I have been holding off for weeks cause I want a nice one not some crappy looking one and I am still not sure I can make one out of pvc that doesn't look like just that, pvc. I wish i had access to a lathe ect. All i got is a drill press and hand tools.


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## Durhampro

Mine was made mostly with a drill press, (not a very good one) and a set of taps. I went to a Metal Surplus store, bought some aluminum rod and had them cut it on their wet saw for 25 cents a cut. Then I drilled the holes for the arrows to go through, then drilled side holes and tapped them for set screws to hold the arrows tight. I was going to have the aluminum black anodized but their is a lot of silver on my bow so I just left it polished.


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## Gundolf

Here is a video on mine.
Don´t have any close up pictures yet though.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zK1uA6zNXSo&feature=share


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## tweeter196

Here is one I made. Working on a 27" and two 11" v-bars for my open rig. They will look similar to this one.









Sent from my stupid damn phone!!!!!


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## mattheww1377

here is a few i made. will try to find pics of more ..


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## Martin_Shooter1

Those are nice. :thumbs_up


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## jrdrees

724wd said:


> thehunter831, instead of o-rings for vibration reduction, try perusing adam & eve dot com for some... umm... "rooster" ring marital aids! you get 6 for about $14 and they come in neat colors! :wink: on my chrome drain pipe stab, you can see them...


Now that's funny right there!


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## rfmarshall

Does a homemade stab really perform ok, I made one at home using pvc pipe and I sprayed in foam to fill the pipe and used bb's to weight the end?


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## Martin_Shooter1

rfmarshall said:


> Does a homemade stab really perform ok, I made one at home using pvc pipe and I sprayed in foam to fill the pipe and used bb's to weight the end?


You tell us. I notice a difference with my homemade B Stinger. I have no idea how much weight I got on the end but I shot with and without and the difference is noticeable. Now I cannot tell you if there would be a difference between say mine and a store bought B Stinger. Thats what I ponder on is how much BETTER would a commercial one work than mine? But for sure there is a difference than none at all.


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## NCstick

Here is mine. It is heavy and I'm not sure if I will use it again at a shoot but, it did what I wanted it too. 

It have my 2012 Element what I needed. More weight!! It held much more solid. The only reason I won't be using it is, I have figured out how to hold this now steady. It's not easy but, I can do it now. 

I have shot 3 shoots ever and this contraption aided me in scoring a 184 with 0-12's. 8 points higher than I have scored so far. 

It's made with 3/4" x 10" nipple with 2 end caps. I drilled one hole in one of the end caps and put a 5/16-24 bolt through it with a nut on the outside and tightened it down. I filled it with expanding foam and covered it in rubber dip. It was easy and cost about $3 to build.
It is only 11-5/8" long so it qualifies to be used in the Hunter 30yd class. 

































I put it on an old Bear Buckmaster BTR I set up for my wife. Without it, it wanted to jump out of my hand literally!! With it, it was rock solid.


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## Martin_Shooter1

Nice thing about that is when your out of ammo, you can unscrew it from your bow, light it and throw it. BOOM!!


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## NCstick

Martin_Shooter1 said:


> Nice thing about that is when your out of ammo, you can unscrew it from your bow, light it and throw it. BOOM!!


Or bludgeon your game to death!!!


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## Durhampro

Martin_Shooter1 said:


> Nice thing about that is when your out of ammo, you can unscrew it from your bow, light it and throw it. BOOM!!


But wouldn't that be ******* fishing?


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## Martin_Shooter1

yep!! lol


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## N1DE3

cncjerry said:


> I think I am about done. I've built so many stabilizer parts and adapters over the past 6 months my family thinks I have OCD.
> 
> This is the final design. I made a special adapter to enable me to use the keyed hole below the stabilizer available on some of the Mathews bows. I made a number of v-bars before I saw the hole, duh. The key is connected to a cylinder that goes thru the bow and protects both the outside and inside of the riser. I used a nylon washer on the side with my heavy-duty knuckles. I wanted the knuckles heavy so it stablizes quickly. They are keyed on the side where they connect by a 5/8ths stub with room for a 5/8th star washer as well. I also made both of the bolts, including the allen head, first time I tried broaching an allen head bolt and it came out OK. The black tube is 3/4" epoxy fiber available from Tap Plastics. It is very strong, light and costs much less than carbon fiber at $15.75 for 5ft. The tube is 19mm, not a full 3/4" so I make custom end caps out of 1" aluminum sized to fit with gel super glue. I've made a bunch of the end caps for different people. The weights are tapped 1 1/2" diameter stainless and weigh about 2oz per.
> 
> I think we are all coming to the conclusion that stabilizers shouldn't cost an arm and a leg! The 32" stabilizer cost me $3 for the tube and about $1 for the end caps. The 14" stab was about $2, clearly not including labor, machine, etc.
> 
> View attachment 1331190
> 
> View attachment 1331194
> 
> View attachment 1331199
> 
> View attachment 1331205


MAN, I like those. Could you me a set ?


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## cncjerry

Thanks, all PMs returned. 

I've replace the epoxy fiber tube with carbon fiber now. The heavy knuckles are the ticket. There is a ton of flex in others I have tried. But don't bother PMing me on the knuckles since they are somewhat uneconomical to make due to the number of operations.


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## iwantone2.4

Well, might as well throw mine in here.


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## WldlfPopCntrlXp

Just made this one today.


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## duby8609

prototype. still working on the mounting bracket but wanted to get it on the bow to see if I wanted to pursue it.


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## Richard1996

put this together in about 10 minutes then plasti dipped it works good no vibration or sound and can adjust weight


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## DubVBoy

Here are some more of my "creations", lol. All of them are titanium rods with PVC end caps and steel weights at the ends. The last one is on my newly acquired 3-D rig, lol.


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## snopro168

Here's mine


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## Fury90flier

iwantone2.4 said:


> Well, might as well throw mine in here.


Hey, don't feel bad, that's exactly how mine looks. The bow came with some sort of stabilizer (carbon tube with aluminum ends) but no weights so I added washers. Back when I used to shoot regularly, about 20 years ago, I used 2-3 foot all thread, about a half dozen 2 1/2 inch washers and just moved them up and down the rod til I got what I liked. Got a bunch of funny looks...didn't care, it worked.

Glad the thread is here...got a few ideas I'd like to try.


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## nanjiroh

Here's my first DIY bow stabilizer. You can't tell from the picture, but I've included a female 5/16" in the front for possible future weight additions.

I don't have a scale so I can't say how much it weighs, but it measures out to be 14.5" in length.


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## b0w_bender

duby8609 said:


> prototype. still working on the mounting bracket but wanted to get it on the bow to see if I wanted to pursue it.


This is a cool idea I like it!


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## SonnyJ

Great thread!
I've been thinking about making one since my bow is such a cheap bow and the thought of putting a $50+ stabilizer on $100 bow just didn't sit right.
Guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow. I think I'm headed to ACE hardware right now.


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## Gundolf

Made a little update of my stabilizer, with brass weights and and little bit of transparent spraypaint


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## metoo

How are you guys, that have tube based designs, securing the threaded stud?


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## Martin_Shooter1

metoo said:


> How are you guys, that have tube based designs, securing the threaded stud?


JB Weld or maybe even some Golf club epoxy. I use JB


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## Gundolf

metoo said:


> How are you guys, that have tube based designs, securing the threaded stud?



Loctite designed for locking threads. Holds about anything until heated to about 200 degrees celsius. But i only secure the the stud that sits in the bow and v-bar and leave the others adjustable.


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## Martin_Shooter1

Gundolf said:


> Loctite designed for locking threads. Holds about anything until heated to about 200 degrees celsius. But i only secure the the stud that sits in the bow and v-bar and leave the others adjustable.


Oops my bad. I thought he was asking how to get the tube inserts glued in duh. To secure the threaded stud in my bow riser ( Mine has a factory built in QD), I use a special jam nut thats half the thickness of a standard nut. You can buy them at any hardware store usually in the specialty parts drawers. I secure my sling under the jam nut with a small flat washer on each side of it. That way when I remove my stab, my sling stays put. 

Loctitie would also work as gundolf said.

Do any of you guys use a lockwasher under your stab to keep it from vibrating loose? It works very well (I have been doing it), but when I remove my stab I have to do something with my lock washer when I case it or it may fall off the stud and get lost. Getting tired of the hassle. I was thinking of adding a small o ring that fit the stud and wouldn't let the washer fall off but haven't tried it yet. I may have to drill a recessed area in my bow side part of the stab for the o ring to not interfere with the stab seating all the way.....


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## tdc57

*30mm shell casing from a A10 warthog *

GREAT thread! 
Here’s my submission, since I’m a gun guy I have a lot of military stuff around me and decided to use a 30 mm shell casing from an A10 warthog.. hahaha.. Yeah I’m different I know.. lol.. but I’m thinking that since this shell casing is just over 8” long and weighs 10 oz with most of weight at the rear, then when I add in the epoxy, bolts and washer is it should way about 12-13 oz. 












I stated out by getting a 5/16 fine thread 2” long with some washers, my thought is once I have the epoxy half filled I’ll had the other washer in the middle, that way when it dry’s It will anchored in the epoxy in different places hopefully providing a more secure fit? 












I also picked up some neoprene washers that I plan on using between the stab and the bow to help with vibration; we’ll see how it works. 












I also picked up two things of epoxy, I’m using “Gorilla” epoxy as I’ve had great experience with it before, again its all TBD how it works, hoping for the best expecting the worst.  












I then sanded down my shell casing, stuffed it full with shipping peanut, placed in the bolt and washers and poured in the epoxy. Once it dry in about 2hrs I’ll see if it works out.. If so I’ll then paint it up to match my bow and move on with life. 












Thank you again for the GREAT thread, some very creative people here.. you guys are awesome!. 

Tdc.


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## Fury90flier

have it facing forward...threaded to the primer pocket. Then you can make different bullets for stabilizer weights.


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## EnglishKev

A couple of the ones I have made.
The rods are carbon tubing from fishing poles.

Kev


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## Daiwateampenn

*homemade stabilizer*

the last few days at home, trial and error over the left over part available in my back yard. and bought a couple of 5/16 thread screw and nuts.... got this pieces of stabilizer at 28".... 
both end using pvc end cap drill to fit in the 5/16" bolt.... body is aluminum 20mm rod...

simply usable, and functional..... 

did try on using SSteel, but it came out to be very very darn heavy, so give up half of doing it... 

Guys, any size of SSteel recommendable? would like to built one that is shinny....


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## Chiro_Archer

. Here is my first attempt at a DIY stabilizer. Cut down 2 of my broken arrows into 6- 8" segments. Used 2 outdoor nozzle covers and painted them khaki, filled both ends of the arrows w silicone then added 3 washers at the end and filled the center with silicone and 2 washers at the base also covered in silicone. Center rod is 9" long n tightened down 3 separate nuts and one washer. Total weight was 10.8 oz


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## The_Tinker

Looks good!

This thread is great. I'm scheming a target stabilizer. Will post pics when finished.


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## Fury90flier

Chiro_Archer said:


> View attachment 1514624
> . Here is my first attempt at a DIY stabilizer. Cut down 2 of my broken arrows into 6- 8" segments. Used 2 outdoor nozzle covers and painted them khaki, filled both ends of the arrows w silicone then added 3 washers at the end and filled the center with silicone and 2 washers at the base also covered in silicone. Center rod is 9" long n tightened down 3 separate nuts and one washer. Total weight was 10.8 oz



Where did you get the cap and end pieces?


----------



## Chiro_Archer

Bought these from Menards, they were in the faucet aisle, they were originally red and blue, but I spray painted them. I tested it out and it shoots great!! I can take another picture tomorrow morning when I get back in and post it what they originally look like in the bag to help out, the only problem I am having with this is when putting it on I have to use a wrench because the silicone in the center gives too much, but once it is in, this baby rocks!


----------



## The_Tinker

Chiro_Archer said:


> Bought these from Menards, they were in the faucet aisle, they were originally red and blue, but I spray painted them. I tested it out and it shoots great!! I can take another picture tomorrow morning when I get back in and post it what they originally look like in the bag to help out, the only problem I am having with this is when putting it on I have to use a wrench because the silicone in the center gives too much, but once it is in, this baby rocks!


I'm not seeing any photos.


----------



## Squirrel

The_Tinker said:


> I'm not seeing any photos.


Look up a few posts, he posted them earlier.


----------



## The_Tinker

Gotcha. See em now. Sorry about that.


----------



## Chiro_Archer

here is the original container that I bought from Menards before they got painted


----------



## adr1601

Looks like I missed the initial excitement of a new post but here's mine anyway. I couldn't find exactly what I wanted so I made it a light weight bar with all the weight out on the end. bar is made from alum. and recycled arrows. The first one I made was 10 inches with an 8 oz weight. Worked great but was a little twangey until I added the bojax. Had some issues with the length when hunting behind stick blind out west so I'm in the process of making a shorter 8 inch one and I'm going to try an 6 oz weight too.


----------



## Durhampro

Nice job ADR. Not unlike the ones that I built for our target bows except ours are longer and mine uses a side bar.

What did you use to coat them with? If you don't mind me asking. I used auto primer, tremclad and top coated with varathane.


----------



## ruttnwapati

*DIY Stabilizer*

Worked on a piece of packaging equipment that had cheap disposable air cylinder that were leaking and needed replaced. Stripped off seals,roughed up piston and rod, shot them with "flex seal". Not sure of the weight. Light with good weight at the end. It suits me well when hunting and balances my bow. 9 incher and 5 incher already threaded. Doesn't get much simpler than that. For all those cheap industrial mechanics (such as myself)this is an option to watch for.


----------



## adr1601

Simple rustoleum. I've found that the simpler I keep a project the more likely I am to start and finish it.Great job on yours did you use set screws to hold arrows into hubs?


----------



## Irishluck

Durhampro said:


> Nice job ADR. Not unlike the ones that I built for our target bows except ours are longer and mine uses a side bar.
> 
> What did you use to coat them with? If you don't mind me asking. I used auto primer, tremclad and top coated with varathane.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 1520182



I built one like this last night, took me about an hour.

Went and bought some $4 arrows and some screws and what not and gota say its not bad. 30" in length and is lighter than my 30" cartel stablizer.


----------



## Durhampro

adr1601 said:


> Simple rustoleum. I've found that the simpler I keep a project the more likely I am to start and finish it.Great job on yours did you use set screws to hold arrows into hubs?


Thanks ADR, I used set screws so I could take it apart if I wanted a longer/shorter arrow. I also used arrow inserts on the ends, so I could tighten the end caps without crushing the arrows. Of course now my wife wants one also, so back to the drill press.

Irish, I hope you will share some pics, I would love to see what you put together. It took me a lot more than an hour to build ours.


----------



## Irishluck

Basically kept it simple and straight to the point,

Used 30" arrows, put inserts on both ends and got 8 #8-32 1" allen bolts. 

The rubber pieces you are seeing are basically heavy duty rubber coaster things. I cant think of the name of it, there what goes under tables and such so you don't scratch the floor.

Still have to get a fine thread nut for each of the bolts on the end of the stabilizer. One for the bolt that threads into the bow and the other that will hold a bolt on for weights.

Simple and easy. Only think I had to drill was some holes through the rubber.

Is lighter than the cartel one I bought so we'll see how it shoots tomorrow. =D


----------



## Durhampro

Nice job Irish, that's a brilliant design.


----------



## Irishluck

Thanks.

Yea I looked at the one you made and I really like those type of stabilizers. Just dont feel like buying one for $150+.

The center rubber pieces are movable to help a little bit to adjust weight.


I did just order some some more metal though to make a nicer one. This one was a test to see how well it would come out. Turned out pretty good.

I ordered:
1-1/2 Aluminum Round Bar= 6" piece ($4.93. Only got this as a backup if I needed to cut my own)
1-1/2 Aluminum Round Bar= 4-1" pieces ($0.82 each)
1-1/2 Aluminum Round Bar= 6-.5" pieces ($0.41 each)
3/8 x .035 Wall ID .305 Aluminum Round Tube= 6-32" pieces ($5.47 each)

This will be about a 33-34" stabilizer.
Give or take.

Only thing I'm having problems now is with the arrows I just used inserts on each end of the arrows to attach the rubber end pieces.

I'm not sure what I can do with these 3/8" thick pieces of aluminum to do the same concept?

Any idea what I could do?


----------



## SD BowHunter

nanjiroh said:


> Here's my first DIY bow stabilizer. You can't tell from the picture, but I've included a female 5/16" in the front for possible future weight additions.
> 
> I don't have a scale so I can't say how much it weighs, but it measures out to be 14.5" in length.


What kind of material is that red shaft?


----------



## maton818

I'd like to know what that red material is as well.


----------



## killitgrillit

maton818 said:


> I'd like to know what that red material is as well.


That is acrylic rod, check out mcmastercarr.com


----------



## Irishluck

A couple of my Stabilizers I have built

Camo one is 31" in length and the red one is 34" in length.


----------



## Durhampro

Hey Irish,
Are you up for a wee bit of criticism? Hope so, Love the camouflage stabilizer although I think it needs some supports in the center like your previous version. The red stabilizer seems to be twisted, I think that is probably due to the way you have secured the ends of the arrows into the couplings. Have you considered running the shafts right through the couplings instead of screwing into the ends?

Just my humble opinion, hope it helps.


----------



## Irishluck

Durhampro said:


> Hey Irish,
> Are you up for a wee bit of criticism? Hope so, Love the camouflage stabilizer although I think it needs some supports in the center like your previous version. The red stabilizer seems to be twisted, I think that is probably due to the way you have secured the ends of the arrows into the couplings. Have you considered running the shafts right through the couplings instead of screwing into the ends?
> 
> Just my humble opinion, hope it helps.



Not a problem. I'm actually just doing some playing around with them right now as far as weights go, seeing what weight works best for me and different ways to add weight. That's why they don't have any center pieces at the moment.
Ive got more parts on the way to do some more tweaking around but am basically just tinkering when I have free time.

The Red stab is twisted but because I made it twisted. Thought it gave it a unique look =D.

When You say running the shafts through the couplings, do you mean basically drilling into it a little bit for the shaft to actually sit into?


----------



## jpott62

Heres one that I made.


----------



## 3Dassassin

killitgrillit said:


> View attachment 1549184
> 
> 
> That is acrylic rod, check out mcmastercarr.com


these stabilizers are sweet looking,id like to try one of these but i have no clue where to start lol id like it to look nice and clean on the ends how you did


----------



## mattheww1377

killitgrillit .... where did you get the end caps?????


----------



## killitgrillit

mattheww1377 said:


> killitgrillit .... where did you get the end caps?????


I make them on the lathe.


----------



## Vandal_Jade

Think this has given my the ideas to make my own using arrow shafts. But I'm thinking about making my version of a carbon blade by using 3-4 arrow shafts next to each other, just not sure on how the physics of it will work..
Anyone have input and or concerns with this idea?


----------



## mattheww1377

killitgrillit do you sell any???


----------



## redline8k

id be interested as well.
-nick


----------



## WldlfPopCntrlXp

Built this one last night. It's a little different. 30" long. Gotta make my side bar tonight. Will either polish them of dip them to match my bow


----------



## cwhandyman

Gundolf said:


> Here is a video on mine.
> Don´t have any close up pictures yet though.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zK1uA6zNXSo&feature=share


it might be the video buttt your nock point looks high or the rest low


----------



## WldlfPopCntrlXp

Got her finished yesterday.


----------



## mattheww1377

WldlfPopCntrlXp where in Ms.are you ..


----------



## WldlfPopCntrlXp

mattheww1377 said:


> WldlfPopCntrlXp where in Ms.are you ..


Utica


----------



## unknowensniper

anyone have any other ideas for end weight other then fender washers?


----------



## apamambax

rdhj said:


> Any ideas what i can use as a 14 oz weight or so like the b stingers that i can screw onto my home made stab


hockey puck.....only about 6 or 7oz though


Sent from my SpiralXed SuperTEC


----------



## TJK

This is one of 2 V-bars I just made; well I can't take all the credit for these a friend of mine did the machining on his lathe. I think I've got less than 15 bucks in 2 8" v-bars.


----------



## bilongo

unknowensniper said:


> anyone have any other ideas for end weight other then fender washers?


What about shocks bushings....sorry for the pic's is an old camera.....


----------



## WldlfPopCntrlXp

Make a mold and use lead. Get some old tire weights and melt em down.


----------



## gone-huntin

Just got her put together now I need some paint


----------



## TJK

What size it the rod 3/4 or 1" and do you have any idea on what it weighs. I did some figuring on the 3/4" rod and I came up with about 4oz per foot. Does this sound about right? 



killitgrillit said:


> View attachment 1549184
> 
> 
> That is acrylic rod, check out mcmastercarr.com


----------



## bowhuntingbama

TJK said:


> This is one of 2 V-bars I just made; well I can't take all the credit for these a friend of mine did the machining on his lathe. I think I've got less than 15 bucks in 2 8" v-bars.
> 
> View attachment 1588063
> 
> View attachment 1588067
> 
> View attachment 1588066


I am assuming this is carbon fiber tube/rod? If so where do I get some?


----------



## TJK

bowhuntingbama said:


> I am assuming this is carbon fiber tube/rod? If so where do I get some?


Yes it is carbon fiber rod. I got it off eBay but the seller doesn't have any more. Look at this thread for more options though http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1947586

By the way mine are .810 outside diameter. And weigh right at 4 oz complete. (With the aluminum ends)


----------



## bowhuntingbama

killitgrillit said:


> View attachment 1549184
> 
> 
> That is acrylic rod, check out mcmastercarr.com


I hope that you haven't already answered this but I am doing this tonight or tomorrow, and as of now I have no ideas on how to make or where to buy the black cap ends in the photos. As of now my only idea is plasti dipping them, is that what you did as well?


----------



## TJK

bowhuntingbama said:


> I hope that you haven't already answered this but I am doing this tonight or tomorrow, and as of now I have no ideas on how to make or where to buy the black cap ends in the photos. As of now my only idea is plasti dipping them, is that what you did as well?


I will try to answer for him. I believe he said he made them on a metal lathe. 

Or at least that's how I made my end caps on my v-bars I don't think you could buy them any where unless you could talk some one on here to make them for you. I would but I had to talk a friend into doing it for me.


----------



## IrregularPulse

You guys making these filled with great stuff, are you noticing positive vibration dampening? Waiting my foam to set up so I can finish and paint today.


----------



## unclejojo

This is an awesome thread with countless ideas to help form your own stabilizer


----------



## IrregularPulse

My first. Still have some aluminum tube and 5/16 bolts left. Might do an 8" and a 28" with the 36" I have left.


----------



## bowhuntingbama

nanjiroh said:


> Here's my first DIY bow stabilizer. You can't tell from the picture, but I've included a female 5/16" in the front for possible future weight additions.
> 
> I don't have a scale so I can't say how much it weighs, but it measures out to be 14.5" in length.


What are those caps and where did you get them?


----------



## mlind

I posted this in another thread too but here's one I made! It's a 3/4" aluminum tube wrapped in carbon fiber sticker. The rubber end caps are the deals you put on your chair legs. I have a bolt with a washer on the riser end. A bolt running thru the puck into a washer and nut on the puck end of the stabilizer. It is hallow and all held together with JB Weld. I dont notice any vibration. It's only 6" plus the puck. Works fine!


----------



## redyak3

Good stuff guys, just finished my first. Was on another DIY thread figured I'd share with a different end weight.


----------



## whack&stack

Nice guys


----------



## whack&stack

3 I made today


----------



## vastomper

A friend of mine made this.




















Sent from my DROID3


----------



## buckman2591

mlind said:


> I posted this in another thread too but here's one I made! It's a 3/4" aluminum tube wrapped in carbon fiber sticker. The rubber end caps are the deals you put on your chair legs. I have a bolt with a washer on the riser end. A bolt running thru the puck into a washer and nut on the puck end of the stabilizer. It is hallow and all held together with JB Weld. I dont notice any vibration. It's only 6" plus the puck. Works fine!
> 
> View attachment 1623279
> 
> 
> View attachment 1623283


Pucks weigh 6oz for those wondering for weight purposes


----------



## scornedgrappler

Marking for tomorrow when I get mine done.


----------



## tombs

killitgrillit said:


> View attachment 1549184
> 
> 
> That is acrylic rod, check out mcmastercarr.com


hey how are you fastening your end caps to the acrylic rods and what meetal are your end caps. thank you.


----------



## tweeter196

Fearless at the stake!!!!!


----------



## tweeter196

My hammer


Fearless at the stake!!!!!


----------



## tweeter196

Fearless at the stake!!!!!


----------



## killitgrillit

tombs said:


> hey how are you fastening your end caps to the acrylic rods and what meetal are your end caps. thank you.


glue and aluminum


----------



## tombs

killitgrillit said:


> glue and aluminum


thanks again


----------



## mnrockwarrior

OK mine is a little shorter hunting size stabilizer that I machined from a 1 1/2 inch Aluminum Hex stock. I first machined the sharp edge of the hex off,then drilled and tapped it for the 5/16-24 threaded set screw on one end and 5/16-24 threaded hole on the other. I then took it to the mill and drilled 24 holes that only went about a third of the way through, but ran into each other creating an open window. I used an end mill to clean up the openings. I then added 18 more pockets between all the holes. I cleaned the aluminum with acetone. I then sprayed the whole thing with clear, let it dry, then plugged all the holes with ear plugs, and sprayed it with a textured black paint. After it dried I took an counter sink and touched off the leading edge of the pockets. One last coat of clear to seal it all up. I added an Outer Limits rubber stabilizer to the end of it to make it a complete unit. So what I actually have is a stabilizer extension.












This is going on my new 2013 Bowtech Insanity Black Ops.


----------



## champman96

Here is mine! Made it in my mechanics class  
Tell me what ya guess think.


----------



## mnrockwarrior

Sometimes the K.I.S.S (keep it simple stupid) method works just fine. I just tend to try to be a little creative at times,even on things that could work using the K.I.S.S. method. I'm just lucky enough to work for a great company, that allows us to make things using their machines for our own personal projects.


----------



## haldermand

vastomper said:


> A friend of mine made this.
> View attachment 1625191
> View attachment 1625196
> View attachment 1625197
> 
> 
> Sent from my DROID3


That is freakin cool!!!


----------



## justin120197

Do these have to be filled with anything.


----------



## Deer Predator

justin120197 said:


> Do these have to be filled with anything.


That would be up to you. I have made three PVC stabilizers with nothing in them, and I didn't notice any noise or vibration issues with any of them.

D.P


----------



## punkur67

Started working on a stabalizer for my brothers PSE spyder today. Made of 7/8" aluminium round stock. Not sure what we are doing on the end.


----------



## mnrockwarrior

Looks like a good place to start. A little longer than my personal preference, but if it works, why not? Bow Jax has a variety of dampeners that might help enhance things a little. I stayed shorter also because it's my hunting rig and I wanted it to fit into my case without removing it.


----------



## punkur67

Shortened the rod up a little, painted it, and threw some rubber o-rings on it.


----------



## punkur67

Here are pics of my brothers stabalizer. First thing I have got him to build in the garage EVER. Damn video game generation! He cant even change his oil.
:doh:


----------



## John Wayne

*here is my PVC stab.*


----------



## cncjerry

It's been a while that I posted on this thread or even the AT site. I get a regular stream of PMs on end caps and the following I sent recently to a guy asking about making end caps from solid bar aluminum stock. These end caps are like those I made in the early pages of this thread and go over carbon or epoxy fibre tube.

Those with a lathe might find these points helpful as you can see it is easier to drill/bore/ream to standard carbon fiber metric sizes than you would think:

Yes, I do machine them from solid rod. I only make caps that go over the rod as it gives more glue surface area. I usually drill them out first (after center drilling with a large center drill) and then bore them to size. As I was making a bunch at a time, as well as using a CNC lathe, I was able to make a snug fit and repeat it. You can bore them with a manual lathe just as easily and once you do one or two you will be able to hit the desired inside diameter every time. If I remember correctly, I think the OD of 25mm tube is actually slightly over. So if you don't want to bore the caps, step drill until you hit 63/64ths (something less than 1") and then either finish drill or ream with a 1" reamer and you will be close to a good fit for gel super glue. For 19mm OD carbon tube, a 3/4" finish bore/drill/ream will be close as well assuming gel glue. 19mm carbon (or epoxy fibre tube from Tap Plastics is much less expensive and just as good) OD is .747" to .748". So if you finish bore with 3/4" drill or reamer you will be right on target.

So step drill once or twice but be careful as step drilling is not an accurate way to drill a hole, and then finish drill slow RPM with lots of oil. If you step drill, use a large, sharp drill and it wont bend as much as starting with smaller sized drills. Also, you want a snug fit but not a really smooth fit, so don't try to sand it perfectly to size. If you do go with smooth, you want it really smooth. Also, some glues hold better than others, sometimes epoxy works best.

I get all my carbon fiber from a Chinese company (off ebay) with an email address that doesn't translate well. Something like happy choice? pretty choice?

Good luck. BTW, aluminum is cheap, buy it in 72" lengths from Enco, I place orders at 6PM and they are at my door the next morning and with a free ship code, enough said.


----------



## Cariss

Here is my first attempt at making a stabilizer. I used 1" Aluminum tubing .035 wall. Made two end caps out of some solid aluminum stock. The weight on the end is a bunch of stacked fender washers that weighs 6oz. Overall weight is 10oz.


----------



## mnrockwarrior

What's the deal? Nobody else has home made projects?


----------



## vastomper

haldermand said:


> That is freakin cool!!!


Thanks!!

Pickle Holler


----------



## hunterta1

Just needed a longer one (24") to sight in and shoot distance more comfortably with...It does the job for right around $25!
















And just for fun thought I'd share how much I'm enjoying my new victory VAP's! Blew right through my targert at 20 yards


----------



## ndm

Here's mine, just finished it up tonight. Never shot a long stab before, couldn't believe how much it helps.








Made it out of PVC. Made a weight for the side bar out of a 1" draw bar pin, I didn't need any weight out front. 

Turkey Team #14 CLUCK DYNASTY


----------



## mf1ve

Made this 10" stabilizer for my daughter's compound. Started with scrap aluminum and scrap tubing, added a little lathe work, glued it together with JB Weld, and powder coated the result. I added a spare counterweight from my recurve, and the result is roughly 12" long. I didn't have any spray foam, so I stuffed some paracord in the bar to keep the tube from ringing. 

Even with this short, light bar, my daugher's groups shrank very noticeably.


----------



## Durhampro

Really nicely done mf1ve, it looks very professional, I bet your daughter is thrilled.


----------



## mf1ve

Durhampro said:


> Really nicely done mf1ve, it looks very professional, I bet your daughter is thrilled.


Thank you Durhampro. Megan is very happy!


----------



## dontpanic

Carbon fiber rod from eBay and a weight for a tripod.


----------



## Tryin'




----------



## team-A&S

here is the sabs I made for my daughter out of triple x arrow shafts and a lot of help from ex-ioke


----------



## c.c.zartan

Mine, just aluminum pipe with chrome bushings jb welded on ends drilled and threaded


----------



## Hamstn

mnrockwarrior said:


> OK mine is a little shorter hunting size stabilizer that I machined from a 1 1/2 inch Aluminum Hex stock. I first machined the sharp edge of the hex off,then drilled and tapped it for the 5/16-24 threaded set screw on one end and 5/16-24 threaded hole on the other. I then took it to the mill and drilled 24 holes that only went about a third of the way through, but ran into each other creating an open window. I used an end mill to clean up the openings. I then added 18 more pockets between all the holes. I cleaned the aluminum with acetone. I then sprayed the whole thing with clear, let it dry, then plugged all the holes with ear plugs, and sprayed it with a textured black paint. After it dried I took an counter sink and touched off the leading edge of the pockets. One last coat of clear to seal it all up. I added an Outer Limits rubber stabilizer to the end of it to make it a complete unit. So what I actually have is a stabilizer extension.
> View attachment 1637332
> View attachment 1637333
> This is going on my new 2013 Bowtech Insanity Black Ops.


Nice creative machine work.


----------



## H0YT

Can somebody tell me the what length and the thread pitch of bolt to get to mount the stabilizer on the riser?


----------



## Durhampro

5/16-24 is the standard size bolt. Length can be whatever you want but be sure it grabs enough threads to fit securely.


----------



## 116Chief3

Which would be better to make one out of 1/2 or 3/4 PVC?


----------



## Glenn58

Made mine this past Saturday. 27" carbon fiber with aluminum endcaps. Posted a thread here in the DIY with parts used.









Ends...









Rear has quick disconnect threaded on.








Quick disconnect...


----------



## Nameless Hunter

Machined aluminum tubing (anodized black) with waterjet cut rubber dampener on the end.
Painted the rubber bumpers before gluing them in.


----------



## cooper334

Tag


----------



## olinprice

Gundolf said:


> Made a little update of my stabilizer, with brass weights and and little bit of transparent spraypaint
> 
> View attachment 1477835
> 
> View attachment 1477846
> 
> View attachment 1477848


Where did you get the brass weights


----------



## bckhntr

here's mine.

parts needed









Finished product - when testing, it seemed like I was getting just a little vibration/noise. Might not have had things tight enough as the weights were just finger tight to determine the best weight for my set up, but I put on a limb saver deresonator on it in case. Found them at fleet farm for 6.50 so I figured what the heck.


----------



## mountainR3

bckhntr said:


> here's mine.
> 
> parts needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a list with the names of those parts by any chance?


----------



## bckhntr

mountainR3 said:


> bckhntr said:
> 
> 
> 
> here's mine.
> 
> parts needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a list with the names of those parts by any chance?
> 
> 
> 
> I do! Just typed it up for another member. Here's the list.
> 
> Here's where I got the carbon rod and ferrules
> 
> Carbon Rod
> https://goodwinds.com/20985.html - carbon rod - 5/8 outside diameter, a little over half inch internal diameter. Went with a 4' piece I have a couple different sizes of stabilizers I want to build.
> 
> Ferrules
> https://goodwinds.com/625-aluminum-ferrule.html
> 
> These fit nice over the outside of the carbon rod. Cut them down to about 1 7/8 long (roughly 3 per ferrule).
> 
> 
> 
> Brass Flanges (2) 5/8 flange diameter, 1/2 outside diameter, 3/8 internal diameter, 1 inch long
> Found these at lowes, runnings and macs (typical hardware stores)
> 
> brass bearing sleeve (1) - 3/8 outside diameter, 1/4 internal diameter, 1 inch long
> Found these at lowes, runnings and macs (typical hardware stores)
> 
> This fits inside one of the brass flanges. I used jb weld inbetween to keep them together. I also had to open the 1/4 internal diameter by 1/64 so I could get the tap to go down to create my 5/16 - 24 threads.
> 
> 1 5/16 - 24 thread bolt 2 inches long. Also used jb weld to lock the bolt inside the one flange without the sleeve. Once that set up, I used my bench grinder to round the head of the bolt to match the diameter of the flange. You could may be go to 1 3/4 or 1 1/2 bolt but one inch of external threads fits fine inside my risers.
> 
> 
> 1 5/16 - 24 thread socket head bolt to attach the weights
> 
> 
> For the weights, I used fender washers
> I picked up 1 1/2 inch and 2 inch fender washers. Ended up using the 1 1/2 washers. These have a 5/16 hole in them but the socket head bolt holds them in place really well.
> 
> 
> I used epoxy to adhere the ferrules to the carbon rod and to adhere the brass flanges to the carbon rod.
> 
> The dampner is a limb saver deresonator - same thing used on the b-stinger extreme hunter stabilizers. Normally these run around 15 to 20 each but I found them at Mills Fleet farm for 8.99 on sale for 6.50 each.
> 
> 
> Also used plasti-dip on the weights to coat them incase they were causing a little noise and vibration.
> 
> I did rough everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> 
> Note: the brass flange standing up, has the bearing sleeve inside with the threads tapped already.
Click to expand...


----------



## bckhntr

With the stabilizer I made, I shot a 3d tourney tonight and didn't notice any noise or vibration coming from it.


----------



## midget

Well, this is Rev1 of the stabilizer project a buddy and I have started.
This is still incomplete, just a picture of the progress so far. (Ignore the stab currently on the bow)


----------



## UCChris

Here's a picture of mine drying right now! I'm gettin my little brother a bow soon so I have plans for a large diameter, short one for him!


----------



## UCChris

Here is the stabilizer attached to my bow along with my DIY string stop. Sorry for the blue hue, but it's dusk here. I will get some better pictures tomorrow.


----------



## diamondxshooter

just asking, how did you attach the washers to the stabilizer?


----------



## Josh eiler

Ricky 2feathers said:


> Looks Good! Here is mine I made from PVC for my 3D Shooter I am Building! It is 24" Long and is filled with packing peanuts. Works great!!


Could you tell or show me how to do this.


----------



## Rwhaley17

Made my weights out 304 SS - My end caps I machined out of of titanium; I have also made other versions (same dimensions) with 6061 & 7075. Cost wise the 6061 is ideal - for overall weight and of course durability I prefer the titanium... However cost is a bit more and it's machinability is a bit more of a pain than 6061


----------



## Bogey-1

Here was my first attempt at a DIY stabilizer. Total cost is about $8. I used a 1/2" PVC coupling and turned it down on a lathe to get rid of all the ribs and print. In the fat end I inserted another piece of 1/2" PVC with a 2oz egg shaped lead weight, suspended between 2 springs, inserted inside. The whole thing was then filled with oil prior to plugging it up. Finished length is 10" and finished weight is 10.8oz. I know it is nothing professional but it kept me occupied for a couple of days while waiting for my bow to arrive.


----------



## damenc

Here's mine, not as extravagant as some of the ones here but does the job. Made from sprinkler system pvc pipe, rubber O rings and the pipe is filled with find sand so I can adjust the weight and works great as a vibration dampener.


----------



## Rwhaley17

Always great to see new a new approach on these projects - good work!


----------



## damenc

Did some touching up


----------



## Rwhaley17

Finished up a few 30" main bars this evening.


----------



## stillern

OK, not 100% DIY but did save a lot of money. Stainless steel washers and a few rubber washers and .. had to use a nylon 1/4 - 3/8 connector to fit the 2" washers. Just under 6oz. On each end. $15


----------



## crab4life

What size and length would you guys recommend for hunting purposes?


----------



## Glenn58

Just finished my matching side bar...









Cut the "Coil" ends off and slid over the weight end. It made a nice transition and dampener for the weights.


----------



## skoal

vastomper said:


> A friend of mine made this.
> View attachment 1625191
> View attachment 1625196
> View attachment 1625197
> 
> 
> Sent from my DROID3


best one in this thread! awesome work,did you make the cylinder yourself? if you ever wanna sell it id buy it


----------



## DEER MEAT

I started working on a stabilizer set-up for my daughter's bow. Got the V bar mount and the aluminum ends for the carbon fiber tubing finished. Next up is to epoxy things together and make some weights.


----------



## DEER MEAT

Got the side bars done. My daughter wants to go with a red black theme. She likes the o-rings..I'm not sold on them yet


----------



## vastomper

skoal said:


> best one in this thread! awesome work,did you make the cylinder yourself? if you ever wanna sell it id buy it


It was all custom made. Only one ever like it, and yes it was sold a while back.


----------



## farside05

My 1st attempt. Didn't have too much choice other than to make one since my daughter's bow has a 1/4 x 20 thread hole where one would mount a stab. Came out pretty good and actually does a decent job balancing the bow.


----------



## Rwhaley17

30" main bar - 15" side bar and QD.


----------



## DEER MEAT

Got my daughter's set-up finished. 26" front bar and 12" back bars. With bowjax.


----------



## Rwhaley17

Looks sharp - you running the bow jacks for dampening?


----------



## DEER MEAT

Rwhaley17 said:


> Looks sharp - you running the bow jacks for dampening?


Thanks RW!! They are For dampening and looks. My daughter wants a red black theme.


----------



## Rwhaley17

Great work DM - I'm sure your daughter is lovin the setup.


----------



## Green River

DEER MEAT said:


> Got my daughter's set-up finished. 26" front bar and 12" back bars. With bowjax.


Love the Roundup yardage marker...I thought I was the only one that did that! LOL!


----------



## Gannon1218

Messing around in the shop I made this with some scrap aluminum, rubber O-rings & a rubber stopper from the hardware store. I milled down the weighted end until it weighed about the same as a friends 10in b stinger did (not sure the actual weight didn't have a scale used equal balance on fulcrum to get it right). Drilled and tapped the stab shaft in 5/16 24 for threads then layed out and drilled through every inch to reduce the weight of the shaft to next to nothing. Lathed a groove every inch for O-rings and drilled out a rubber stopper for noise/vibration reduction then gave it a red and black enamel paint job to match the CPXL.


----------



## team-A&S

Rd







Here is mine 90% done need to cut to length anodized the ends and glue


----------



## Fury90flier

anyone have any extra endcaps...believe od of my tube is 7/8"? I've got an 8" tube that I need to make a couple shorties out of for upper/lower stabs on my recurve.


----------



## buckihunter302

Well I've been toying with the idea of a little bit longer, heavier stab. I just couldn't take the plunge and buy a $100+ stab. Instead I made my own tonight for about $15! I still need to fine tune the weight and paint the barrel black, but she shoots pretty nice! Here was the first 40 yard group:










It's nothing fancy but it gets the job done. I was slow at work so I drew up a little sheet in AutoCAD showing what you need and how to build it if anyone wants.


----------



## RageHard

Just whipped up my first homemade stab as I wanted something a bit longer for target shooting my hunting rig.
Part of an old aluminum hiking pole, rubber filled and a hockey puck for a weight.


----------



## Milo357

For the DIY'rs, how are you mounting the screws at each end of the aluminum tubes AND making sure it straight true to the tubing? Just eyeballing it?

What kind of screws are you using if your not using a threaded rod?

I think I am going to start VERY simple on my first one. PVC & foam. Advice and links to detail instruction would be appreciated.


----------



## 3Dshooter68

Here are some of mine:


----------



## djensen623

Marked!!


----------



## sixstringer4528

3Dshooter68 said:


> Here are some of mine:
> View attachment 2050253
> View attachment 2050254
> 
> View attachment 2050255
> View attachment 2050256
> 
> View attachment 2050257


How much would it cost to lets say make a 10 inch one with all the materials?


----------



## Rwhaley17




----------



## waldopepper

3Dshooter68 said:


> Here are some of mine:
> View attachment 2050253
> View attachment 2050254
> 
> 
> These are WAY nice. That lathe can come in handy at times. Nice job. I like the adjustability with the weights.


----------



## sixstringer4528

Where are you guys getting the carbon looking tape or stickers?


----------



## ridgeway

sixstringer4528 said:


> Where are you guys getting the carbon looking tape or stickers?


Most are using real carbon fiber tubing. There are many online vendors selling the tubing. The stab I made, I sourced a 12" tube from a member here that makes CF stabs.


----------



## sixstringer4528

ridgeway said:


> Most are using real carbon fiber tubing. There are many online vendors selling the tubing. The stab I made, I sourced a 12" tube from a member here that makes CF stabs.


Hmmm that's what I thought. I just made a 10 inch pvc stab today and want to get that ugly pup covered up asap with something stylish. Ive looked at some hard ware stores and they dont even got carbon fiber duct tape.... Idk where else to look.


----------



## jonfinnell

Autozone or popular car part chains usually have carbon fiber print decal paper. Usually in roll form like 4-6" wide. Just cut to size with razor knife and put it on. Looks great. I've used it on several copper stabs that I've made over the years.


----------



## sixstringer4528

jonfinnell said:


> Autozone or popular car part chains usually have carbon fiber print decal paper. Usually in roll form like 4-6" wide. Just cut to size with razor knife and put it on. Looks great. I've used it on several copper stabs that I've made over the years.


I'll check it out man, thanks.


----------



## waldopepper

So what makes a better stab, carbon fiber rod or a plastic coated steel mop handle. Just kidding.


----------



## sixstringer4528

Ive got the stabilizer all assembled. Its constructed out of just one 10 inch pvc tube with a t-bar at the end filled with a roll of pennies it weighs about 6 oz. Decided I'm spray painting her flat black, the carbon film costs more than the stab itself so I skipped that. Picture will be posted once paint dries.


----------



## jim.atkins.125

My first one was pvc, wasn't bad.

My second attempt was 1/2"carbon fiber from a sport kite and cut off screw driver handles. I had an awesome adjustable side rod setup that i got from a wheel chair from work. Fully adjustable and Free!


----------



## Wichhart

Awesome thread


----------



## OurDee

pumpkineater said:


> Where did you get the skull head?


Probably a gear shift knob from the auto-parts store.


----------



## joebrenner007

sixstringer4528 said:


> Hmmm that's what I thought. I just made a 10 inch pvc stab today and want to get that ugly pup covered up asap with something stylish. Ive looked at some hard ware stores and they dont even got carbon fiber duct tape.... Idk where else to look.


Autozone has it. Carbon fiber vinyl wrap


----------



## escorza88

Tagged for later. They all look awesome!!!


----------



## fivejades

Here are my homemade stabs. The rubber dampeners are made from motorcycle rubber hand grips, clutch rubber cups, wheel boots and o-rings. Tubes are 5/8" PVCs except the silver which is telescopic alluminum salvaged from a retractable squeegee "Made in China". Its 14" when collapsed and 24" when extended. I made these stabs with less than 1 hour each.


----------



## fivejades

View attachment 2098145
View attachment 2098147

Here are my homemade stabs. The rubber dampeners are made from motorcycle rubber hand grips, clutch rubber cups, wheel boots and o-rings. Tubes are 5/8" PVCs except the silver which is telescopic alluminum salvaged from a retractable squeegee "Made in China". Its 14" when collapsed and 24" when extended. I made these stabs with less than 1 hour each. The shortest one is a modified 3" Axion stab. There are hundred of cheap motorcycle hand grip designs you can play of.


----------



## AzizaVFR

Made this last weekend. Using 0.600" OD, 0.050" wall thickness unidirectional carbon tube, I machined the endcaps from 7075 aluminum. I made the endcaps and threads from a solid piece.


----------



## fivejades

AzizaVFR, skillfully made. I guess these two pieces are also connectable to make one long stab. I wish I also have lathe.


----------



## AzizaVFR

Actually, those are the side rods for my Lady and daughter's target bows. They have the longer front rods already, made in the same manner. I just need to machine the sidebar mounts and all three bows will be complete, now that the little girl's bow went from pink camo to candy teal powdercoat.


----------



## fivejades

AzizaVFR said:


> Actually, those are the side rods for my Lady and daughter's target bows. They have the longer front rods already, made in the same manner. I just need to machine the sidebar mounts and all three bows will be complete, now that the little girl's bow went from pink camo to candy teal powdercoat.


Copy on that. Keep on posting!


----------



## fivejades

The latest member of my stabs family.













The total cost in making this babe is 350 Philippine Pesos or less than 8 USDollars.


----------



## sixstringer4528

Finally picked up some spray foam. I put some pennies in the t-bar and sprayed the foam in there, for weight....it's around 6 oz. Gave her a few coats of some matte black spray paint and applied a clear coat. Bowjax will go on soon.


----------



## ruttnwapati

Thought I would throw my DIY stabilizer in the mix here. Mine is pretty "ghetto" compared to some on here. Anyway
1/2" thin wall PVC cut to length
Pack PVC with packaing material.....aka "ghost poop"
1/2 rubber pipe plug (cut rubber flange off the end
Fender washers and O-rings to fit
3/4" bronze bushings reduced down to 1/4"
tap 5/16x18 stud
Colored O-rings u desire
Carbon fiber tape
Picked up all material at hardware store


----------



## fivejades

Here is a quick and easy way to make a retractable stabilizer using a salvaged bike hand pump. No machining nor drilling. Just your wild creativity.

You will need only 1 set of 5/16" 24NF x 1-1/2 " bolt and nut with lock washer and stab weights according to taste and preference.

First, you have to disassemble the hand pump.







Disregard the valve head and the push rod and handle. Then prepare for the 5/16" bolt.







Insert and tighten the 5/16" bolt into the push rod guide.







Reassemble the hand pump without the valve head and push rod/handle.


----------



## fivejades

(Please disregard the attached thumbnails).

Lastly, attach at the front end with weights and dampeners the way you like it. There are many options. In this particular project, bike rubber handle grips are used.













The length of the stab is 6-1/2" and 10" when retracted. 

Have fun!


----------



## bonecollector47

This is mine that I made in highschool and at the shop I work at. Its made to match mathews bows using the dampeners and gridlock


----------



## sixstringer4528

bonecollector47 said:


> This is mine that I made in highschool and at the shop I work at. Its made to match mathews bows using the dampeners and gridlock


Looks great!


----------



## steve101610

I made these last week out of simple parts from the hardware store and some broken axis arrows from the range total cost including the paint was $11 plus the weights.


----------



## bucco921

steve101610 said:


> I made these last week out of simple parts from the hardware store and some broken axis arrows from the range total cost including the paint was $11 plus the weights.


You can't post that without a parts list :wink:

Very nice setup you have there.


----------



## steve101610

For 1 stab you will need these parts
two 1/4"x1 1/4" fender washers
1 5/16×24×3/4" screw and nut
1 5/16×24×1 1/2" screw and nut(length depends on how many weights)
8 8/32×3/4" screws
3 1 1/4" nylon washers
And whatever color paint you want.
Drill out fender washer for how many arrows you want. I chose 4 to make it a little stiffer. Make sure you take your time and mark all the holes the same. Then find the drill bit size for the arrow diameter you use and make sure the drill bit is a little smaller than what you need so the arrow shafts fit tightly in the nylon washers. Then drill the nylon washers in the same pattern you did with the fender washers. The 5/16 bolts will not fit in the fenders so i just tapped them and it threaded in perfect. Then tighten nut onto bolt. Now slide the nylon washers over the arrow shafts and bolt the fender washers onto the arrows and your ready for paint. I used neoprene washers between my weights to add a little dampening affect plus i think it looks cool. These stabs worked out better than i thought. They are very light weight and stiff and very cheap to make. Now my bstingers and stokerized stabs are collecting dust!


----------



## bucco921

steve101610 said:


> For 1 stab you will need these parts
> two 1/4"x1 1/4" fender washers
> 1 5/16×24×3/4" screw and nut
> 1 5/16×24×1 1/2" screw and nut(length depends on how many weights)
> 8 8/32×3/4" screws
> 3 1 1/4" nylon washers
> And whatever color paint you want.
> Drill out fender washer for how many arrows you want. I chose 4 to make it a little stiffer. Make sure you take your time and mark all the holes the same. Then find the drill bit size for the arrow diameter you use and make sure the drill bit is a little smaller than what you need so the arrow shafts fit tightly in the nylon washers. Then drill the nylon washers in the same pattern you did with the fender washers. The 5/16 bolts will not fit in the fenders so i just tapped them and it threaded in perfect. Then tighten nut onto bolt. Now slide the nylon washers over the arrow shafts and bolt the fender washers onto the arrows and your ready for paint. I used neoprene washers between my weights to add a little dampening affect plus i think it looks cool. These stabs worked out better than i thought. They are very light weight and stiff and very cheap to make. Now my bstingers and stokerized stabs are collecting dust!


:thumbs_up


----------



## Revvv

Great ideas


----------



## fivejades

steve101610 said:


> For 1 stab you will need these parts
> two 1/4"x1 1/4" fender washers
> 1 5/16×24×3/4" screw and nut
> 1 5/16×24×1 1/2" screw and nut(length depends on how many weights)
> 8 8/32×3/4" screws
> 3 1 1/4" nylon washers
> And whatever color paint you want.
> Drill out fender washer for how many arrows you want. I chose 4 to make it a little stiffer. Make sure you take your time and mark all the holes the same. Then find the drill bit size for the arrow diameter you use and make sure the drill bit is a little smaller than what you need so the arrow shafts fit tightly in the nylon washers. Then drill the nylon washers in the same pattern you did with the fender washers. The 5/16 bolts will not fit in the fenders so i just tapped them and it threaded in perfect. Then tighten nut onto bolt. Now slide the nylon washers over the arrow shafts and bolt the fender washers onto the arrows and your ready for paint. I used neoprene washers between my weights to add a little dampening affect plus i think it looks cool. These stabs worked out better than i thought. They are very light weight and stiff and very cheap to make. Now my bstingers and stokerized stabs are collecting dust!


Cool!


----------



## mattheww1377

My new bars i made for ASA


----------



## coilguy

To look at later


----------



## lefty859

steve101610 said:


> For 1 stab you will need these parts
> two 1/4"x1 1/4" fender washers
> 1 5/16×24×3/4" screw and nut
> 1 5/16×24×1 1/2" screw and nut(length depends on how many weights)
> 8 8/32×3/4" screws
> 3 1 1/4" nylon washers
> And whatever color paint you want.
> Drill out fender washer for how many arrows you want. I chose 4 to make it a little stiffer. Make sure you take your time and mark all the holes the same. Then find the drill bit size for the arrow diameter you use and make sure the drill bit is a little smaller than what you need so the arrow shafts fit tightly in the nylon washers. Then drill the nylon washers in the same pattern you did with the fender washers. The 5/16 bolts will not fit in the fenders so i just tapped them and it threaded in perfect. Then tighten nut onto bolt. Now slide the nylon washers over the arrow shafts and bolt the fender washers onto the arrows and your ready for paint. I used neoprene washers between my weights to add a little dampening affect plus i think it looks cool. These stabs worked out better than i thought. They are very light weight and stiff and very cheap to make. Now my bstingers and stokerized stabs are collecting dust!


What did you use for weights?


----------



## steve101610

I used some weights that i had from a previous setup. They are extreme stabilization weights i believe from 60X


----------



## robinhedd

tag


----------



## jordanbou

Here is my DIY stab setup. I made the stab out of .75" carbon fiber tubing, Machined the ends out of aluminum, and machined the weights out of stainless.


----------



## fivejades

jordanbou said:


> View attachment 2132619
> 
> View attachment 2132620
> 
> 
> Here is my DIY stab setup. I made the stab out of .75" carbon fiber tubing, Machined the ends out of aluminum, and machined the weights out of stainless.


Looks good! What did you used to dampen vibrations?


----------



## MPKO

Here is my one hour achievement. Aluminium tubes with Stainless weights. 24 and 12 inch. Now I only need to make a mount bracket.


----------



## blowinsmoke9907

This is mine. It's 31 1/2 long.


----------



## mgwelder

Very nice


----------



## kc hay seed

ruthless79 said:


> 2 of the 3/4" floor plates should get you there. or one 3/4 plate with a cap and some lead shot in epoxy


how about bb`s for weight and fill the tube with foam or silicone???


----------



## MPKO

Side Mount done


----------



## BucksAndBows

built a short 5 inch stab and used the pse limb bands on it


----------



## anmactire

Nice looking stab's a-plenty on here. Who would be good to contact about machining some end caps cheaply when I try to make my own? My tabletop lathe died recently and I can't afford to replace the motor.


----------



## Garrett Dutton

I used a 3/4 Inch PVC pipe, it is 25" long. I painted it black then put my sticker on for a little style, followed by 7 coats of clear coat. The caps are made out of aluminum and the weights are steel. I also packed it with packing peanuts. It worked great, really helped me balance out and be a lot steadier.


----------



## Nwqb16

In the process of making a 24" front bar. I used pvc with two 1 inch end caps 5/16 nut and bolt. Before painting the whole thing weighs about 10 ounces with 5 ounces out front. About the last 4 inches of the stabilizer has an old socket with an extension attached to it. I'll post some pics of the process along with a 12 inch and 8 inch stabilizer I made over the summer.
































For dampening material I found some paper like packing foam that I rolled up and twisted down the middle of the PVC, it packed pretty tight. Here's a pic of that.








I would say and all I probably only have under $15 worth of materials in all of these. Oh and the rings on the smaller stabilizers are cut pieces of old bike to being stacked on top of each other.


----------



## Nwqb16

The last sentence can be blamed on my talk text LOL I meant to say *bike tubing.


----------



## traviscain38

Where do u guys buy your 5/16-24 bolts or threaded rod at.


----------



## Nwqb16

Any hardware pretty much..... They're like 41 cents a piece


----------



## jcazarcherydad

traviscain38 said:


> where do u guys buy your 5/16-24 bolts or threaded rod at.


ace


----------



## v5cvbb

My first try at a stabilizer. I'll probably wrap it later. Just made it today. Total length is 21.5" and shaft without weight was 3oz.

Kevin


----------



## v5cvbb

I checked Tractor Supply today and they had several lengths in 2 packs for $1.79 but none loose.


----------



## bowabuk

Tagged


----------



## AzizaVFR

traviscain38 said:


> Where do u guys buy your 5/16-24 bolts or threaded rod at.


Machine and thread it as part of the end caps.


----------



## Rwhaley17

https://www.boltdepot.com/Set_screws_Allen_Cup_point_Alloy_steel_black_oil_finish_5_16-24.aspx


----------



## Bowhunting WI

After seeing this thread I decided to build my own stabs. So off to Menards I went. 5' of 3/4" copper pipe, end caps and hardware for under $20. On Amazon I found 12"x 5' carbon fiber wrap for $6, with Amazon prime. I wanted some nicer looking weights, so I splurged and ordered weights for two stabs from 60X for $27. (I figured I can always use the weights if I ever buy a "real" target stab.)

So far I've made 3 stabs. 12", 18" & 24" (just the 12" & 18" are done and pictured)

The copper pipe cut down (the 5/16x24 bolt is JB welded in the end cap):








The stabs wrapped in carbon fiber:








The stabs complete after plasti-dipping the end caps:








I've also ordered the Bow Jax stabs that slide on to the end of a 3/4" stabilizer in hope of eliminating the little bit of vibration I get after the shot.

BHWI


----------



## MICCOX

Bowhunting WI said:


> After seeing this thread I decided to build my own stabs. So off to Menards I went. 5' of 3/4" copper pipe, end caps and hardware for under $20. On Amazon I found 12"x 5' carbon fiber wrap for $6, with Amazon prime. I wanted some nicer looking weights, so I splurged and ordered weights for two stabs from 60X for $27. (I figured I can always use the weights if I ever buy a "real" target stab.)
> 
> So far I've made 3 stabs. 12", 18" & 24" (just the 12" & 18" are done and pictured)
> 
> The copper pipe cut down (the 5/16x24 bolt is JB welded in the end cap):
> View attachment 2164995
> 
> 
> The stabs wrapped in carbon fiber:
> View attachment 2164963
> 
> 
> The stabs complete after plasti-dipping the end caps:
> View attachment 2164965
> 
> 
> I've also ordered the Bow Jax stabs that slide on to the end of a 3/4" stabilizer in hope of eliminating the little bit of vibration I get after the shot.
> 
> BHWI


Are you filing the inside of the copper pipe with any thing.


----------



## Bowhunting WI

MICCOX said:


> Are you filing the inside of the copper pipe with any thing.


No I haven't filled them, they're hollow inside.

I did add the bow Jax rubber ends and that has removed what little vibration I did get at the shot.


----------



## Ingo

Bowhunting WI said:


> No I haven't filled them, they're hollow inside.
> 
> I did add the bow Jax rubber ends and that has removed what little vibration I did get at the shot.
> View attachment 2167968


I did a copper tubing stabilizer but I filled it with silicone based bathroom caulking. Epoxied a nut in the front cap to accept a 5/16 bolt. I was using thick smooth fender washers sandwiched with neoprene washers at first but I figured out that a 2.5" s-coil weighed precisely the same as the amount of washers I was using so I just stuck it on the end.


----------



## Armyof1

nice thread going to have to look into making one of these myself


----------



## Armyof1

do you sale them if so i would be interested in a set


----------



## sixstringer4528

Made from a microphone stand. The weights are stainless steel collars from the hardware store. I've got about 4 oz. up front. The rod is a bit skinnier than most commercial stabs and it has some whiplash when you draw cause it's thin. But, once everything is settled down it works well.


----------



## v5cvbb

That whiplash would concern me. Looks nice.


----------



## sixstringer4528

v5cvbb said:


> That whiplash would concern me. Looks nice.


I bet I just need a longer bolt and a rubber washer on the bolt.


----------



## Durhampro

Tell me that's not a steel pipe


----------



## sixstringer4528

Durhampro said:


> Tell me that's not a steel pipe


It's from a microphone stand idk...why


----------



## Durhampro

Stabilizers are not supposed to be heavy, that is why they are made out of aluminium or carbon fiber. The only actual weight in a stabilizer system is on the end. So while it looks pretty, you have defeated the purpose of the stabilizer itself.


----------



## sixstringer4528

Durhampro said:


> Stabilizers are not supposed to be heavy, that is why they are made out of aluminium or carbon fiber. The only actual weight in a stabilizer system is on the end. So while it looks pretty, you have defeated the purpose of the stabilizer itself.


Well first off i doubt the microphone stand was made of steel. Second I weighed every component yesterday and the weights are heavier than the rod so...


----------



## Durhampro

Well then good luck, there is a reason stabilizers are made of carbon or aluminum.


----------



## sixstringer4528

Durhampro said:


> Well then good luck, there is a reason stabilizers are made of carbon or aluminum.


Just looked the mic stand up...aluminum alloy. You happy?


----------



## Durhampro

Couldn't care less actually


----------



## sixstringer4528

Durhampro said:


> Couldn't care less actually


If that's the case maybe you shouldn't have commented "tell me that's not steel".


----------



## v5cvbb

I would avoid the rubber washer. My quick disconnect had a rubber insert and it never felt solid.


----------



## sixstringer4528

v5cvbb said:


> I would avoid the rubber washer. My quick disconnect had a rubber insert and it never felt solid.


I actually just put a rubber o ring on the bolt and that "whiplash" is gone.


----------



## v5cvbb

It's the results that matter. Glad it works for you.


----------



## Durhampro

sixstringer4528 said:


> If that's the case maybe you shouldn't have commented "tell me that's not steel".


If you are looking for a pizzing match, go for it! I make stabilizers, real stabilizers, bows with my bars on them have won at national championships. There is a science to it and sticking a bunch of weights on the end of an old microphone stand may look good and it may impress your pals but I guarantee it will not shoot well.


----------



## sixstringer4528

Durhampro said:


> If you are looking for a pizzing match, go for it! I make stabilizers, real stabilizers, bows with my bars on them have won at national championships. There is a science to it and sticking a bunch of weights on the end of an old microphone stand may look good and it may impress your pals but I guarantee it will not shoot well.


Wow bud, "guaranteeing" it will not shoot well is quite the sacrifice. The next time I'm at the range I'll be sure to post a pic of all the x's busted out on the target. How about next time you learn to respect and appreciate other people's projects instead of criticizing them.


----------



## Durhampro

sixstringer4528 said:


> Wow bud, "guaranteeing" it will not shoot well is quite the sacrifice. The next time I'm at the range I'll be sure to post a pic of all the x's busted out on the target. How about next time you learn to respect and appreciate other people's projects instead of criticizing them.


Good Luck with that, as for a target with the x's all busted out ......ROFLMAO!!! You would have better luck with a broom handle!


----------



## Nwqb16

Durhampro said:


> Good Luck with that, as for a target with the x's all busted out ......ROFLMAO!!! You would have better luck with a broom handle!


This is quite funny..... Keep doing what you are doing sixstringer4528!!! I shot 300 49x with PVC stabs and fender washers MY 8th WEEK OF INDOOR EVER! shoot what you like there is no science to that!


----------



## sixstringer4528

Durhampro said:


> Good Luck with that, as for a target with the x's all busted out ......ROFLMAO!!! You would have better luck with a broom handle!


I would be interested in seeing some of your homemade stabs.


----------



## Durhampro

sixstringer4528 said:


> I would be interested in seeing some of your homemade stabs.


You probably would be but I am no longer interested in offering you advice.

You should just be content to shoot with a hunk of pipe and never know how a real quality set of bars feels.


----------



## ruttnwapati

Durhampro said:


> If you are looking for a pizzing match, go for it! I make stabilizers, real stabilizers, bows with my bars on them have won at national championships. There is a science to it and sticking a bunch of weights on the end of an old microphone stand may look good and it may impress your pals but I guarantee it will not shoot well.


Pics......I'm interested. 
Drop some names and pics.


----------



## Nwqb16

ruttnwapati said:


> Pics......I'm interested.
> Drop some names and pics.


I second that notion


----------



## sixstringer4528

It's unfortunate that mr stab scientist is acting like a stingy little girl. I dug up the pics myself. 










I'm impressed to say the least! Stabs lookin classy durham.


----------



## Durhampro

.... and you wonder why I will no longer offer you advise or guidance how to create a real stabilizer?

enjoy playing with your hunk of pipe!


(thread unsubscribed)


----------



## ka_key02

Beautiful color scheme too. Would look great bolted onto the front of the Nerf bow! Now that pic makes me ROTFLMFAO!!!! 





sixstringer4528 said:


> It's unfortunate that mr stab scientist is acting like a stingy little girl. I dug up the pics myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm impressed to say the least! Stabs lookin classy durham.


----------



## v5cvbb

All of my DIY stuff is pretty ugly and generally unfinished. As long as it works for me I am happy. If someone wants to shoot with a rock tied to a broom stick that's fine by me. I have not room to criticize anyone's work.

Kevin


----------



## Bentbolt

Are you guys balancing your bows with these stabizlers and side mounts?


----------



## sixstringer4528

Bentbolt said:


> Are you guys balancing your bows with these stabizlers and side mounts?


Yes, the longer ones are used for balancing out the bow so you can more steadily aim. The shorter ones are commonly just used for quieting the bow and taking some of the shock and vibration out of the shot.


----------



## CarbonWarrior

724wd said:


> thehunter831, instead of o-rings for vibration reduction, try perusing adam & eve dot com for some... umm... "rooster" ring marital aids! you get 6 for about $14 and they come in neat colors! :wink: on my chrome drain pipe stab, you can see them...


I KNEW I recognized that!!! ... LOL


----------



## CarbonWarrior

Durham, Your series of comments toward Sixstringer were uncalled for. It's your right to post... but, to refer to what MOST of our Mothers taught us... if u aint got nothin' nice to say, best to say nothing at all. We're all on here looking at peoples hard work and projects. Something they've built to satisfy their urge to be creative. Nothing you say should take away from anyones satisfaction from building something theirself. I respect everyones right to express their own mind and opinion... but, really... MY opinion on your comments is that they'd have been better expressed in a PM to Sixstringer, or, even better... Kept to yourself.

'Drops the mic


----------



## sixstringer4528

For anyone genuinely interested in Durham's stabs, check out page 6.


----------



## josephmrtn

Here is a 27" target stab I built for myself


----------



## sixstringer4528

josephmrtn said:


> Here is a 27" target stab I built for myself
> View attachment 2192917


Looks nice! I made one with a t bar on the end a few months ago. The T would sometimes twist to the right or left and that really set my OCD off lol


----------



## josephmrtn

Sixstringer yes it can throw you off lol if you have it level it is really nice tho 
since its filled with gear oil so it sorta self levels your bow


----------



## Durhampro

CarbonWarrior said:


> Durham, Your series of comments toward Sixstringer were uncalled for. It's your right to post... but, to refer to what MOST of our Mothers taught us... if u aint got nothin' nice to say, best to say nothing at all. We're all on here looking at peoples hard work and projects. Something they've built to satisfy their urge to be creative. Nothing you say should take away from anyones satisfaction from building something theirself. I respect everyones right to express their own mind and opinion... but, really... MY opinion on your comments is that they'd have been better expressed in a PM to Sixstringer, or, even better... Kept to yourself.
> 
> 'Drops the mic


It wasn't uncalled for at all Carbon, in fact had he not started with the snarky crap I would have told him how to make a bar that really does balance and weighs nothing. When he decided to have a pizzing match, he got what he deserved. I have been making stabilizers for 4 years now as sixstringer noted, some of my earlier bars are on page 5 and even they would outbalance and reduce shock better than a hunk of pipe with a thread glued in but in the past 4 years they have evolved and so has my machine shop. 

If someone wants help they are welcome to it but if someone wants to start a fight, I'm right here.


----------



## CarbonWarrior

Sixstringer, yeah. I saw his stabs on page 6, and even read a lot of his comments. I like the design of those black and red ones he posted. He seems to be a fairly nice fellow, based on what he said to others... But, when he made the comments to you, I just really got rubbed the wrong way. I think yours is made to suit you, and, as such, probably feels just the way you want it to. A weight in front of a bow does not make the shooter. U can put ANY stab on the front of a Champion shooters bow, and they'll set it up the way they want, and still shoot proficiently. Keep up the ingenuity on your DIY projects, and just know that most of us see it for what it is. Creative and Utilitarian.


----------



## Durhampro

sixstringer4528 said:


> For anyone genuinely interested in Durham's stabs, check out page 6.


Page 5 actually


----------



## sixstringer4528

Durhampro said:


> It wasn't uncalled for at all Carbon, in fact had he not started with the snarky crap I would have told him how to make a bar that really does balance and weighs nothing. When he decided to have a pizzing match, he got what he deserved. I have been making stabilizers for 4 years now as sixstringer noted, some of my earlier bars are on page 5 and even they would outbalance and reduce shock better than a hunk of pipe with a thread glued in but in the past 4 years they have evolved and so has my machine shop.
> 
> If someone wants help they are welcome to it but if someone wants to start a fight, I'm right here.


I got what I deserved?! I posted a pic of my work and you criticize it out of the blue. You gave me the right to act "snarky".


----------



## Durhampro

sixstringer4528 said:


> I got what I deserved?! I posted a pic of my work and you criticize it out of the blue. You gave me the right to act "snarky".



I asked you if it was a hunk of steel pipe, and then told you why it wouldn't be appropriate. "You Happy?"


----------



## sixstringer4528

Durhampro said:


> I asked you if it was a hunk of steel pipe, and then told you why it wouldn't be appropriate. "You Happy?"


Durham, if you recall I never asked for your help. You just jumped to conclusions assuming I was clueless on stabilizers.


----------



## WhiteElder

Tagging so I can find later after I unsubscribe while you two finish destroying a great thread.

[It would be nice if there was some private way to send messages back and forth. To prevent people getting alarts about useless postings. If only such a system exisited]


----------



## Durhampro

Oh, you never "asked for help" maybe you shouldn't post on forums then. No fear, you will never again receive help from me. 

As for being "clueless on stabilizers" those are your words, if the shoe fits. 

The only advice I will give you is to try a real stabilizer, feel what your hunk of pipe is not giving you and then try to emulate it. But in the meantime, enjoy playing with your hunk of pipe!



sixstringer4528 said:


> Durham, if you recall I never asked for your help. You just jumped to conclusions assuming I was clueless on stabilizers.


----------



## sixstringer4528

I apologize for the disturbance ladies and gents. Lets carry on sharing our creativity and respecting one anothers projects.


----------



## Durhampro

Apology accepted


----------



## tony21

great ideas here, found my next new project!


----------



## Bowhunting WI

Durhampro said:


> Tell me that's not a steel pipe





Durhampro said:


> Stabilizers are not supposed to be heavy, that is why they are made out of aluminium or carbon fiber. The only actual weight in a stabilizer system is on the end. So while it looks pretty, you have defeated the purpose of the stabilizer itself.





Durhampro said:


> Well then good luck, there is a reason stabilizers are made of carbon or aluminum.





Durhampro said:


> Couldn't care less actually





Durhampro said:


> If you are looking for a pizzing match, go for it! I make stabilizers, real stabilizers, bows with my bars on them have won at national championships. There is a science to it and sticking a bunch of weights on the end of an old microphone stand may look good and it may impress your pals but I guarantee it will not shoot well.





Durhampro said:


> Good Luck with that, as for a target with the x's all busted out ......ROFLMAO!!! You would have better luck with a broom handle!





Durhampro said:


> You probably would be but I am no longer interested in offering you advice.
> 
> You should just be content to shoot with a hunk of pipe and never know how a real quality set of bars feels.





Durhampro said:


> .... and you wonder why I will no longer offer you advise or guidance how to create a real stabilizer?
> 
> enjoy playing with your hunk of pipe!
> 
> 
> (thread unsubscribed)





Durhampro said:


> It wasn't uncalled for at all Carbon, in fact had he not started with the snarky crap I would have told him how to make a bar that really does balance and weighs nothing. When he decided to have a pizzing match, he got what he deserved. I have been making stabilizers for 4 years now as sixstringer noted, some of my earlier bars are on page 5 and even they would outbalance and reduce shock better than a hunk of pipe with a thread glued in but in the past 4 years they have evolved and so has my machine shop.
> 
> If someone wants help they are welcome to it but if someone wants to start a fight, I'm right here.





Durhampro said:


> I asked you if it was a hunk of steel pipe, and then told you why it wouldn't be appropriate. "You Happy?"





Durhampro said:


> Oh, you never "asked for help" maybe you shouldn't post on forums then. No fear, you will never again receive help from me.
> 
> As for being "clueless on stabilizers" those are your words, if the shoe fits.
> 
> The only advice I will give you is to try a real stabilizer, feel what your hunk of pipe is not giving you and then try to emulate it. But in the meantime, enjoy playing with your hunk of pipe!





Durhampro said:


> Apology accepted




That's funny, if any one should be apologizing; it's you. Condescension, insults, arrogance, and an internet keyboard tough guy act….I’d say that about sums up your contribution to this thread the past few days. 

Unless you’re posting pics of stabs you’ve built, please stop posting in this thread. I’m sure you’re going to have a real snappy comeback for my post which is critical of you, but please don’t waste your time. I’m not responding to an adult that acts like a child. We’re here to find ideas on how to build stabs, not listen to your nonsense.


----------



## Durhampro

Bowhunting WI said:


> That's funny, if any one should be apologizing; it's you. Condescension, insults, arrogance, and an internet keyboard tough guy act….I’d say that about sums up your contribution to this thread the past few days.
> 
> Unless you’re posting pics of stabs you’ve built, please stop posting in this thread. I’m sure you’re going to have a real snappy comeback for my post which is critical of you, but please don’t waste your time. I’m not responding to an adult that acts like a child. We’re here to find ideas on how to build stabs, not listen to your nonsense.



No snappy comeback required except to say wow, you actually copied every one of those posts.


----------



## grantmac

This WAS a great thread back when it had people producing attractive and effective stabilizers. Now it seems like people just want to slap some carbon wrap on a piece of plumbing and get patted on the back for it. DIY doesn't have to mean producing something inferior, but producing something similar to a commercial product does take a bit of thought.

-Grant


----------



## dr.shwack_em

Not nearly as nice as some of these but here's mine with a homade sidebar mount


----------



## ron w

as far as the functional dynamics of a stabilizer goes. if anyone this making the m out anything but the very lightest body of the stabilizer they can obtain, providing that it is stiff enough, they have not got even a rudimentary understanding of the physics involved with stabilizer design, as it applies to archery.


----------



## sixstringer4528

ron w said:


> as far as the functional dynamics of a stabilizer goes. if anyone this making the m out anything but the very lightest body of the stabilizer they can obtain, providing that it is stiff enough, they have not got even a rudimentary understanding of the physics involved with stabilizer design, as it applies to archery.


Could you emphasize a bit more on this?


----------



## markovian

so atm i use pvc pipe for my stab use copper end caps and alot of epoxy to hold it together ohh and the best part a matco deep socket ... probly worth the price of a retail stab 

so could a carbon wrap it to make it stiff ... sometime soon ima buy a carbon tube for it 

also how do you guys get the screw perfectaly lined up with the shaft mine is always off 

oh and ofcourse pics wish i could show off under the tape it looks good for a pvp pipe the shop owner shoot at thought it was a retail stab with green tape


----------



## tacklebox80

Ready for some paint. I made two shafts 8" & 12" 
4 weights


----------



## tacklebox80

BTW the shafts are made from phenolic rod.....


----------



## PaulME

Getting back to posting pics of stabilizers (posted this separately but helping to get things back on track here)- carbon fiber tube thin wall about .8" dia from memory, stainless end caps, mystery metal weights - maybe stainless. It's a 30" long rod. Will take a picture of it mounted tonight.
I have a couple metal lathes etc, so making this stuff is fun.


----------



## Bowhunting WI

grantmac said:


> This WAS a great thread back when it had people producing attractive and effective stabilizers. Now it seems like people just want to slap some carbon wrap on a piece of plumbing and get patted on the back for it. DIY doesn't have to mean producing something inferior, but producing something similar to a commercial product does take a bit of thought.
> 
> -Grant


Archery stabilizer snobs....never knew such a group of individuals existed. How dare anyone make a stabilizer out of PVC, aluminum, copper, a broom handle or a bike pump. ACA....archers criticizing archers, this site is full of unique individuals.

For the record, the copper stab I built works just as well as the Doinker I have, at a fraction of the price. 

For those of us without lathes or access to such equipment, keep building your Franken-stabs. I love seeing what you guys can build, no matter what it looks like or what it is made of!


----------



## waldopepper

It's whatever works and usually works quite well. I call it Barnyard Engineering...


----------



## sixstringer4528

Bowhunting WI said:


> Archery stabilizer snobs....never knew such a group of individuals existed. How dare anyone make a stabilizer out of PVC, aluminum, copper, a broom handle or a bike pump. ACA....archers criticizing archers, this site is full of unique individuals.
> 
> For the record, the copper stab I built works just as well as the Doinker I have, at a fraction of the price.
> 
> For those of us without lathes or access to such equipment, keep building your Franken-stabs. I love seeing what you guys can build, no matter what it looks like or what it is made of!


Well said.


----------



## v5cvbb

Backyard Engineering. So that's what my degree is in.


----------



## tacklebox80

Post paint


----------



## josephmrtn

Looks great man!!!


----------



## sixstringer4528

Here's a pic of my stabilizer on the bow.


----------



## Bmethe

This thread has got me all pumped up to make my own... I work in a machine shop so I can cut and tap anything I need to. but I'm curious about weight and length. Are there standards that apply or is it just feel? For example do most 24" stabilizer shafts weigh the same? then you add weights to make it fit your style?


----------



## sixstringer4528

Bmethe said:


> This thread has got me all pumped up to make my own... I work in a machine shop so I can cut and tap anything I need to. but I'm curious about weight and length. Are there standards that apply or is it just feel? For example do most 24" stabilizer shafts weigh the same? then you add weights to make it fit your style?


It depends on what type of material the rod is. As for weights, it takes experimenting to figure out how much weight works best with your bow.


----------



## grantmac

Bmethe said:


> This thread has got me all pumped up to make my own... I work in a machine shop so I can cut and tap anything I need to. but I'm curious about weight and length. Are there standards that apply or is it just feel? For example do most 24" stabilizer shafts weigh the same? then you add weights to make it fit your style?


I recommend the tubes from flycarbon. The 21.5mm with 1mm wall is pretty close to ideal and the 45" length will let you make a full set (1x32" and 1x15"):
http://www.flycarbon.com/-215mm-w1mm-Wall_c_16.html

The ideal stabilizer is perfectly rigid and weightless. 3K carbon is about as close as you can get to those characteristics.
Most adult compound shooters will settle on a longrod of 28-32" and short of 12-15" so it's best to make your set on the long side with the idea that you can always make them shorter. Carbon is strongest when there is something around it so you will want to make a socket of sorts for the bow end (this is often called a ferrule). These are always tapped 5/16x24. The weight end can be constructed the same or like a gigantic arrow insert since it is not subject to the same bending loads as the bow end. This can also be tapped 5/16x24 although 1/4x20 is more common.
As for weights I generally make those from 1.5" 303 stainless round bar. I like 1x4,3x2,5x2 and 10x1 oz weights since those numbers let me reach any configuration I need within 1oz on both bars up to 20oz on the side and 10oz on the front concurrently.

-Grant


----------



## cc46

This is an interesting thread. 

I've made 6 or 7 long rod stabilizers and 10 or 12 side rods, using similar materials. 

My inclination was to start with aluminum ski poles. Usually ski poles are $5 a pair at a used sporting goods stores or a goodwill or Salvation Army store, or garage sale. BTW did you know Easton used to sell stabilizers made from ski pole blanks back in the 70s? and for end weights --- a tapped steel ball bearing; 1", 1 1/2" etc etc. Heck in those days if you were in high school shop class you could tap and make your own weights out of brass. A high school friend in shop class was your friend!! trade some homework for a tapped brass weight.

That said the epoxy to aluminum sometimes breaks, but you can re-do it. 

In the last few months I've used 1/2" copper pipe. I like it. I have experimented with window caulking inside the pipes. Adds weight and feels dead. The beauty here is for $10 bucks you can experiment with weight and length.

Now I'm looking for carbon golf clubs, and kids rubber balls for dampeners. 

Ideas are endless and there is no set science to the right set up. Materials are materials who can say one works better than the other ---- have you heard of a spine for stabilizers?


----------



## ruttnwapati

grantmac said:


> This WAS a great thread back when it had people producing attractive and effective stabilizers. Now it seems like people just want to slap some carbon wrap on a piece of plumbing and get patted on the back for it. DIY doesn't have to mean producing something inferior, but producing something similar to a commercial product does take a bit of thought.
> 
> -Grant


Your right commercial products are so much superior. Take a look at the commercial options available. Plastic with turned weights,snap rings and nuts. Straight from the shop nut and bolt supply. NO THANKS
I will keep making my inferior carbon rod stabs with 6061 aluminum puck containing concealed weights to bias to the desired side I want. You can roll with your commercial grade stuff. After all it is real aesthetically appealing.


----------



## Duncanwelding

bckhntr said:


> mountainR3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I do! Just typed it up for another member. Here's the list.
> 
> Here's where I got the carbon rod and ferrules
> 
> Carbon Rod
> https://goodwinds.com/20985.html - carbon rod - 5/8 outside diameter, a little over half inch internal diameter. Went with a 4' piece I have a couple different sizes of stabilizers I want to build.
> 
> Ferrules
> https://goodwinds.com/625-aluminum-ferrule.html
> 
> These fit nice over the outside of the carbon rod. Cut them down to about 1 7/8 long (roughly 3 per ferrule).
> 
> 
> 
> Brass Flanges (2) 5/8 flange diameter, 1/2 outside diameter, 3/8 internal diameter, 1 inch long
> Found these at lowes, runnings and macs (typical hardware stores)
> 
> brass bearing sleeve (1) - 3/8 outside diameter, 1/4 internal diameter, 1 inch long
> Found these at lowes, runnings and macs (typical hardware stores)
> 
> This fits inside one of the brass flanges. I used jb weld inbetween to keep them together. I also had to open the 1/4 internal diameter by 1/64 so I could get the tap to go down to create my 5/16 - 24 threads.
> 
> 1 5/16 - 24 thread bolt 2 inches long. Also used jb weld to lock the bolt inside the one flange without the sleeve. Once that set up, I used my bench grinder to round the head of the bolt to match the diameter of the flange. You could may be go to 1 3/4 or 1 1/2 bolt but one inch of external threads fits fine inside my risers.
> 
> 
> 1 5/16 - 24 thread socket head bolt to attach the weights
> 
> 
> For the weights, I used fender washers
> I picked up 1 1/2 inch and 2 inch fender washers. Ended up using the 1 1/2 washers. These have a 5/16 hole in them but the socket head bolt holds them in place really well.
> 
> 
> I used epoxy to adhere the ferrules to the carbon rod and to adhere the brass flanges to the carbon rod.
> 
> The dampner is a limb saver deresonator - same thing used on the b-stinger extreme hunter stabilizers. Normally these run around 15 to 20 each but I found them at Mills Fleet farm for 8.99 on sale for 6.50 each.
> 
> 
> Also used plasti-dip on the weights to coat them incase they were causing a little noise and vibration.
> 
> I did rough everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> 
> Note: the brass flange standing up, has the bearing sleeve inside with the threads tapped already.
> 
> 
> 
> Tagged for later
Click to expand...


----------



## Red arch

Would using a hockey puck for the weight of the end be a possibility?


----------



## RageHard

Hocky pucks work well and are 6oz if I remember correctly.

I got tired on unscrewing my stab every time I go to the range and am too cheap to buy a quick disconnect so I made a stab that pops off.









Need to clean up the end a bit, there's a rubber bumper to make sure there are no rattles.









Made from an old aluminum crutch, going to make a back bar to match today.


----------



## sixstringer4528

On my stabilizer the bolt that screws into the bow comes loose and has even fallen out of the rod. As of now it's just tapped into the rod and crimped at the end. If I use jb weld on the bolt do you think it would hold up to the vibration and stay put in the rod?


----------



## RageHard

Finished, 15" with 3.5oz front and 10" side with 6oz


----------



## josephmrtn

Built another 2ft stab today 😉


----------



## HyperHat

made this one for my new ballistic this weekend, i will call it the Tack Driver XL...think i have enough supplies to make 2 more...


----------



## sconfer100

cc46 said:


> This is an interesting thread.
> 
> I've made 6 or 7 long rod stabilizers and 10 or 12 side rods, using similar materials.
> 
> My inclination was to start with aluminum ski poles. Usually ski poles are $5 a pair at a used sporting goods stores or a goodwill or Salvation Army store, or garage sale. BTW did you know Easton used to sell stabilizers made from ski pole blanks back in the 70s? and for end weights --- a tapped steel ball bearing; 1", 1 1/2" etc etc. Heck in those days if you were in high school shop class you could tap and make your own weights out of brass. A high school friend in shop class was your friend!! trade some homework for a tapped brass weight.
> 
> That said the epoxy to aluminum sometimes breaks, but you can re-do it.
> 
> In the last few months I've used 1/2" copper pipe. I like it. I have experimented with window caulking inside the pipes. Adds weight and feels dead. The beauty here is for $10 bucks you can experiment with weight and length.
> 
> Now I'm looking for carbon golf clubs, and kids rubber balls for dampeners.
> 
> Ideas are endless and there is no set science to the right set up. Materials are materials who can say one works better than the other ---- have you heard of a spine for stabilizers?


Did you ever use a ski pole? I thought of using one as well. Some of the older cross county ski poles are fiberglass.


----------



## HyperHat

HyperHat said:


> View attachment 2468962
> 
> made this one for my new ballistic this weekend, i will call it the Tack Driver XL...think i have enough supplies to make 2 more...


Shot my best group of 6 from 35 yrds into slightly larger than baseball...


----------



## Squirrel

I've been bored so I made a PVC stabilizer. I used all parts I had here already. I used one of those little extenders that come with some wrist slings for your stabilizer. Then I pulled a Limbsaver s-coil apart and used the rod inside to screw my end cap to and also to add some weight. I step drilled the end so the end cap slid inside but also so the rod fit tightly. I bought some cheap carbon vinyl on Amazon to wrap it (I am going to re-wrap it I got a couple annoying air bubbles lol). For now I just have some tape wrapped around that rod the end cap is screwed into and inserted into the PVC to make it a friction fit, because I may change it from 12" to longer if needed. I also may fill the PVC with silicone or foam.

Some parts I gathered brainstorming and you can see the unassembled s-coil:









Step drill and result:

























Finished stabilizer. I have not weighed it yet, but the combined end cab and rod weighed 2.6oz.


----------



## Moonshine_Spaz

Just need to rough it up and shoot some paint on it and it's good to go. Just 1/2" schedule 80 pvc 10-12" long filled with silicone. Once my single pin get here I'll see what it does as far keeping my bow steady


----------



## Albtraum13

ron w said:


> as far as the functional dynamics of a stabilizer goes. if anyone this making the m out anything but the very lightest body of the stabilizer they can obtain, providing that it is stiff enough, they have not got even a rudimentary understanding of the physics involved with stabilizer design, as it applies to archery.


8,200 posts and this guy hasn't even a rudimentary understanding of proper grammar


----------



## JohnnyBlazin44

Iam wanting to post up a pic off my homemade stab and am a little scared and concerned if it is safe to post a pic of it without getting criticized and my head tore off if it were to be made out of steel.......... ?


----------



## Fury90flier

I don't like your member name...you need to change it so that "I" approve. And to top it off, you don't have a avatar pic...so you don't have an opinion that matters....lol. Before you post an avatar pic, please send it to me so I can approve it

Post your pics...if we like it great, if we don't like it...who the hell are we- why do you care what someone you don't know thinks.


----------



## Strider1

I am really bad . I use mercury in the end for weight


----------



## caleb1783

I modified my limbsaver s-coil to attach the diablo collector's item... ^^

for details, you can refer to my blog...


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## Fury90flier

reminds me of a custom job I saw on a bow at a 3D/field (don't remember which) shoot...Old steel bottle opener- the ones that were on coke machines, screwed onto bars etc....I can see where it would be quite handy.


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## ccdskater

What are yall using for the nut part? I'm looking to just do a 
4" pvc with the nut.


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## RGV hunter

cncjerry said:


> I think I am about done. I've built so many stabilizer parts and adapters over the past 6 months my family thinks I have OCD.
> 
> This is the final design. I made a special adapter to enable me to use the keyed hole below the stabilizer available on some of the Mathews bows. I made a number of v-bars before I saw the hole, duh. The key is connected to a cylinder that goes thru the bow and protects both the outside and inside of the riser. I used a nylon washer on the side with my heavy-duty knuckles. I wanted the knuckles heavy so it stablizes quickly. They are keyed on the side where they connect by a 5/8ths stub with room for a 5/8th star washer as well. I also made both of the bolts, including the allen head, first time I tried broaching an allen head bolt and it came out OK. The black tube is 3/4" epoxy fiber available from Tap Plastics. It is very strong, light and costs much less than carbon fiber at $15.75 for 5ft. The tube is 19mm, not a full 3/4" so I make custom end caps out of 1" aluminum sized to fit with gel super glue. I've made a bunch of the end caps for different people. The weights are tapped 1 1/2" diameter stainless and weigh about 2oz per.
> 
> I think we are all coming to the conclusion that stabilizers shouldn't cost an arm and a leg! The 32" stabilizer cost me $3 for the tube and about $1 for the end caps. The 14" stab was about $2, clearly not including labor, machine, etc.
> 
> View attachment 1331190
> 
> View attachment 1331194
> 
> View attachment 1331199
> 
> View attachment 1331205



CNCJERRY, how did you make those end caps, I really like them.


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## Chillr73

3/4 pvc with fender washers with rubber washers in between them on then end for adjustable weight. I think the 3/4 is a little to big. Going to try 1/2 and see what it looks like


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## youngguy

This is the only stabilizer I still use that I have made. It is an all stainless steel side bar. Its pretty heavy but it works pretty good.


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## RGV hunter

adr1601 said:


> Looks like I missed the initial excitement of a new post but here's mine anyway. I couldn't find exactly what I wanted so I made it a light weight bar with all the weight out on the end. bar is made from alum. and recycled arrows. The first one I made was 10 inches with an 8 oz weight. Worked great but was a little twangey until I added the bojax. Had some issues with the length when hunting behind stick blind out west so I'm in the process of making a shorter 8 inch one and I'm going to try an 6 oz weight too.


Adr1601, where did you get your end caps for this stabilizer that you made?


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## adr1601

I made them.


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## b0w_bender

When it comes to oddball stuff I find McMaster Carr to be a real reliable place to find it. They are seldom the best price you will find but they usually have it.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#


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## GrayTech

Using up some carbon arrows that had cracked ends.


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## RGV hunter

Here is mine. Gonna try it tomorrow.


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## mgwelder

RGV hunter said:


> Here is mine. Gonna try it tomorrow.
> View attachment 3656754
> View attachment 3656762


Details details! Love the looks. How is that made?


Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## RGV hunter

mgwelder said:


> Details details! Love the looks. How is that made?
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk



You can buy the diy kit online (hi-tek). I used some broken arrows that I had and cut them to my desired length. The kit costs about $20- $25 depending where you get it. I just added some weights that I all ready had in my misc. box. I noticed that the more weight I added on the end the better it felt. I filled the arrows with silicone also.


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## devlite

Here's my homemade 28" front bar!!









Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## e.419

Here's my set I made


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## 6969blkdragon

Here's mine , I made 3 sets at 12 inches and 3 sets at 30 for our tournaments


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## mmeadow

Ttt

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk


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## julle

Some of the stabilizers I have made for myself and friends. 
Specifically designed for fighting the wind, especially with recurves where you don't have that much weight on the end.


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## Clay1969

made this today. its heavy but stable:


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## Berlinasaurus

Here's mine. It's extendable, made from a carbon hiking lole. Total cost me about 8 dollars. Works great! I can shoot minute of angel groups with it.


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## MaJa77

A few I built for my son and his friends. They are limited to 12" stabs in the tournaments they shoot so all the bars are 10" to allow for weights.


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## MaJa77

Here's some I built for my bow, plus a back bar adapter I made.


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## jonbutcher05

Nice, looks great!


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## Mattp8893

Looks great! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SurfaceArchery

Where are you guys finding end caps?


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## LethalParadox

I'm beyond impressed with AT community's skills and ingenuity. I can't wait for my 2017 BT to arrive, so I can begin the design for my own stabilizer. I like the ones with a skull and antlers the best.


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## Wenty

Here's my recent build. Light. Stiff. Turned out nice.
My build process and pics are in the link. Under $20...

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=4564194&p=1098111258&posted=1#post1098111258


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## pomorski1

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Chevyman17

Tagged

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


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## bigcountry001

very nice ideas!


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## Unk Bond

Hello
To follow [ Later


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## MaJa77

Here's a 10° adapter I made for my son to try. Works great and he said it helped him settle the pin quicker.


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## Fury90flier

bringing to the top...

who was the guy that made stabilizers here on AT? They were machined aluminum end caps (a few color choices) and CF bar material.


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## TheLongbowShoot

Fury90flier said:


> bringing to the top...
> 
> who was the guy that made stabilizers here on AT? They were machined aluminum end caps (a few color choices) and CF bar material.


Shadow stabilizers. "Steveinaz"


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RGV hunter

Here is another one that I made from some broken arrows that I had lying around.


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## leoncrandall74

Here are some I've built using pvc and rubber for dampening. Very cheap and easy to make. I also made both of the rear mounts super simple but work great.









Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk


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## MaJa77

A couple that I made from old arrow shafts


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## leoncrandall74

MaJa77 said:


> A couple that I made from old arrow shafts


Very cool! 

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk


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## harmattan

I like this one


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## dumas

Carbon fiber fishing rod is very good ,use a part what you can not bend it with your hands.


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## Drennen

Been kicking around the idea for awhile now of making my own now I may try it with my new found inspiration


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## PearsonShooter7

Here's my newest creation stab


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## PearsonShooter7

All painted and atrached


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## israelluis001

Some pretty sweet stabalizers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## dc_51




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## leoncrandall74

dc_51 said:


> View attachment 6419115


That looks pretty sweet! Did you make the mount and the joint in the stabilizer as well? 

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk


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## young7.3




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## Yort-111

*DIY Stabilizer*

View attachment 6525753












Hi all, sorry for asking this on my first post but I am at work and time is limited at the moment, can anyone tell me the name of the rubber bushes with the knobs on the ends on the outside of this stabilizer and possibly where to buy them, I have not had much luck with google.



Thank you in advance &#55357;&#56842;


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## young7.3

They are called bow jax. Bowjax.com


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Ryanrambo24

These are nice

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## naterb

Here's my take on a sidebar stabilizer. I don't have a garage much less a mill so it's built out of exhisting parts that I slapped together. 
If I bought all the correct hardware the first time it would be under $20 total. 
The main part is for an air hose. I attached it to the 2 piece quiver hole. It rotates and adjusts outward. So when transporting it I can bring it in (pictured)
It's a little clunky but working with what I got. 3d printer/cnc sure would be nice...









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## leoncrandall74

That's pretty slick! Nice job


naterb said:


> Here's my take on a sidebar stabilizer. I don't have a garage much less a mill so it's built out of exhisting parts that I slapped together.
> If I bought all the correct hardware the first time it would be under $20 total.
> The main part is for an air hose. I attached it to the 2 piece quiver hole. It rotates and adjusts outward. So when transporting it I can bring it in (pictured)
> It's a little clunky but working with what I got. 3d printer/cnc sure would be nice...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk


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## azscorpion

Thinking outside the box!


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## Frankthetank88

Here's mine made out of aluminum and some old carbon arrows. Also made the quick releases, and the sidebar attachment.


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## Frankthetank88

The weights are made from stainless


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## Slimymudman

This thread is gold haha it's almost too silly but some of these are really functional


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## Israelluis

Neat idea !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## NoviceAddicted

*DIY Stabilizers.*

Looking through this thread I can see there are some very talented, skilled people here of which I am not, also don't have the tools, lathe etc. I would like to know if there is any way to buy the end caps separate, and just source your own carbon bars to cut and epoxy end caps over or into? That way I can choose quality of carbon fiber tube for stabs. I am thinking that a lot of the markup for stabilizers involves the quality of carbon rods used or perceived quality. My whole point being buying ready to use end caps. The only thing i can think of at this point is buy cheap short stabs, trash them and rework the end caps. Thanks for any help.


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## ohiohunter02

Here are some that I made. The ends are a quick little design but functional. Also added some material to the inside of the bars for internal damping.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Ol bubba

Good ideas


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## NoviceAddicted

I found a great video on youtube. Hunting Bow Stabilizer Build, after trying to figure out and look online too long to source end caps or something I could use for end caps. I wish I hadn't spent so much money on archery equipment lol so I could buy what I need to make more archery equipment lol. To my thinking the end caps are the key, as buying high modulus carbon rods looks like no problem and cutting them as easy as cutting arrows. At this point I may be able to scrape together the money to buy a tap and die set someday, but seemed like the equipment in video cost some money. They looked professional quality to me. I do have a few questions if anyone can help. What is the industry standard for end cap material, aluminum, what grade, or stainless thinking too expensive? I don't think there is any way around the process of using bar stock and drilling, tap and die like in video for long target stabs? If anyone has any ideas or anyone sells just end caps preferably threaded I would love to hear. I would like to just buy the highest quality carbon tube stock that is appropriate, cut it to length, rough up under where end caps are going and epoxy it all together. Thanks for reading.


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## blbhunt2

I didn't read all the posts on this thread but I love what I've seen. One thought I'm having is quick connect ideas, I'm thinking like air hose or pressure washer quick connect. Is this a good idea? Thought I'd run it by all you bright guys before I try.... 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Tannertmx85

It may have a little vibration sound to it with those fittings but I think it would work if you adapted it down to fit 


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## RGV hunter

blbhunt2 said:


> I didn't read all the posts on this thread but I love what I've seen. One thought I'm having is quick connect ideas, I'm thinking like air hose or pressure washer quick connect. Is this a good idea? Thought I'd run it by all you bright guys before I try....
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


I think it would be best if you used the quick disconnects that hold tight. I just bought a typical quick disconnect from an archery website and used it on my stabilizer and it works great. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


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## RGV hunter

RGV hunter said:


> I think it would be best if you used the quick disconnects that hold tight. I just bought a typical quick disconnect from an archery website and used it on my stabilizer and it works great.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


Air hose quick disconnects will be loose. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


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## blbhunt2

RGV hunter said:


> I think it would be best if you used the quick disconnects that hold tight. I just bought a typical quick disconnect from an archery website and used it on my stabilizer and it works great.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


Thanks for the thoughts..... No offense RGV, but this is exactly what I'm trying to avoid, spending more than I absolutely need to. If I can use something I have laying around already I'm way ahead of going and buying something. 
I'll scrap the air hose coupler idea but I might try the pressure washer coupler once gun season is over

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## RGV hunter

blbhunt2 said:


> Thanks for the thoughts..... No offense RGV, but this is exactly what I'm trying to avoid, spending more than I absolutely need to. If I can use something I have laying around already I'm way ahead of going and buying something.
> I'll scrap the air hose coupler idea but I might try the pressure washer coupler once gun season is over
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


If you can make a tight fitting quick disconnext I am willing to try it. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


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## jpsissom3204

blbhunt2 said:


> I didn't read all the posts on this thread but I love what I've seen. One thought I'm having is quick connect ideas, I'm thinking like air hose or pressure washer quick connect. Is this a good idea? Thought I'd run it by all you bright guys before I try....
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


The only problem besides the lose fitting that i can see is them being a little heavier than your typical quick connectors. The idea is to get the weight out away from the bow by adding additional weight in any form closer to the bow i don't know how that will affect the overall balance. But if you have it laying around i would def try it. All you need for your typical quick connect though is a barrel nut and something to allow you to attach it to the bow. I am still working though in my head of how to do that without needing to have a piece of aluminum rod cnc'd


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## Wilderness_5658

Impressive


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## Stryder

NoviceAddicted said:


> I would like to know if there is any way to buy the end caps separate, and just source your own carbon bars to cut and epoxy end caps over or into? That way I can choose quality of carbon fiber tube for stabs. I am thinking that a lot of the markup for stabilizers involves the quality of carbon rods used or perceived quality.


ACP composites sells a very high quality carbon fiber in just about any shape you want. I just bought tubing from the to make a couple stabs. Paid $30 plus shipping for 30 inch piece of 0.500 ID tubing. You can get same in a different outer pattern for $18 but I wanted the pretty stuff 
The aluminum insert caps I had made at work. I'll post some pics when it's finished.


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## Yellowhorse6

Following. Pics soon


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## Burnettcj

very interesting


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## Burnettcj

great look too!


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## badshaw24

I need to do this these look amazing.


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## RGV hunter

I made this one from a telescoping broom handle.


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## buckmaster27

Just made this one for my 3d bow


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## Mexican 3D

im not sure if i have already posted, so anyways, here's the setup i made a lot of years ago for my 3D bow... its a DIY but not neccesarily homemade, unless you have a lathe at home...fortunately i had access to one at school.... i miss that bow


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## xhitter

Talk about some different looking stabilizers!


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## Jmlochala

I thought about making one from cutting a piece off my hoe handle and threading the bolt in the end.. just to use to hold a reel on.. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Fuzuli

Really interesting ideas on this thread! Can't wait to try myself


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## buckmaster27

heres another just finished up for a buddy


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## calreef18

These all look great! Definitely going to try and make a couple. Is everyone making clones of existing stabilizers in terms of length/weight or just building custom? What’s a good starting point for length/weight on something to be used for 3D?


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## buckmaster27

I make mine custom but they look similar to others out their.my 3d one i made few post back was 11 inches the red one on here is 7 3/4 inches and next one im making is gonna be the same lenght for my bow ill post it when its done


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## mrobin30

Looks like something I will try


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