# QAD Ultra Question



## jf69 (Oct 9, 2005)

I was wondering myself. Are you having a fletch clearance problem? if so go to their website and you can request a lt1 launcher arm it has a deeper valley, they say it will solve clearence problems


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## macdude922 (Feb 4, 2007)

I have a clearance problem with 2" blazers, but I have no problem with 3.125" quick spins. The whole thing really doesn't make sense. By the way, I tried the different launcher to no avail.


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## A Mess (May 21, 2005)

I do not believe it is adjustable, nor do I believe it has anything to do with clearance.

The reason you are having issues with the blazers and not the quickspins is because the blazers are taller, and require more clearance. This rest should be shot cock fletch up. If you are having clearance issues, it is likely caused by the bow, and not the rest. Make sure cam timing is correct, and nock height is correct. This rest does provide sufficient clearance if set up properly.


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## jf69 (Oct 9, 2005)

I just read the intrustions on the website and from what I can gather the drop speed is contolled by the timimng cord lock. I emailed qad for further explantion, Ill post there responce when I get. I did a powder check on mine today and realized my bottom left flecth in making contact. I use a 4 vane flecth


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## Big Horn (Jan 25, 2007)

The only adjustment I found was to get the cord as short as possible, ie close to the lock. This helped a little (actually just enough) for my slow set up, but I was not impressed. They need to do better than that for $100 plus rest.


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## skyhiarcher (Mar 14, 2006)

did you tie off to the down bus cable. what kind of bow


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## lungbuster101 (Sep 26, 2006)

i think there is a tension skrew some where on them that tightens up the tension on the spring


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## meatinthepan (Sep 18, 2006)

Actually i believe there is adjustment on the spring itself, but i hear its time consuming and hard to do, get a diagram from QAD and im sure you could do it


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## jf69 (Oct 9, 2005)

I couldnt take it any more. I treid to give this rest a chance. I emailed qad and called and have not heard back form them I waited 2hrs and I decide to change rests, went back to nap dropaway. I set it up tuned it did a powder coat test and it was fine. I spent 115.00 on that qad rest, for what maybe I can sell it 80.00. Theres only 75- 100 shots on it. I definatley wasnt impressed by it.


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## crazyjz (Sep 26, 2006)

*QAD issues*

The QAD rest can be tough to tune. I have my QAD mounted on my new Guardian and it presented several hurdles. I still have to nock my arrows with the cock feather away from the cables or they will touch. Using the LT1 launcher and some judicious nock placement, I don't have fletching issues any more. 

In my opinion, the QAD is a good rest, not for everybody and can be difficult but not impossible to tune. For me, the benefits outweigh the tuning difficulties.


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## Aggie04 (Jun 20, 2006)

I am having the same issues with my Ultra-Rest LD and Blazers. I was getting cable contact with cock vane up, so I switched to cock vane out and was getting contact on the bottom vane on the launcher when it was down. I'm waiting for my extra felt to come in to install the higher launcher arm and adjust my nock point.

QAD answered my e-mail the next day, I don't know why they wouldn't reply to your question? Did you use their e-mail or fill out the question thing on their website?


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## crazyjz (Sep 26, 2006)

*New QAD LD rest*

I'm not sure when it started but for the last month or two, the LT1 launcher is included in the package when you buy the Pro QAD LD rest. I guess they got tired of having to field all those phone calls and then have to pay 50 cent postage on a part that probably cost them less than a nickel to build.

At any rate, I did have problems but did not have to call them. I was able to rely on the expertise of the people that post here and determine exactly what I needed to do to tune this rest. As soon as my Saunders slide gets here, it should no longer matter how I nock my arrows, we'll see.


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## Aggie04 (Jun 20, 2006)

Interesting.... I've got a Saunders cable slide on my bow and I still have clearance issues with the cock vane up. I guess it's just my bow then.


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## Rabbit (Nov 27, 2003)

*This may help...*



macdude922 said:


> Does anybody know if the drop timing on the QAD ultra ld is adjustable?


someone posted this a while back. It's the LD version but I'm sure it adjusts the same way.


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## crazyjz (Sep 26, 2006)

*aggie04*

It's none of my business but exactly what is hitting on what. I'm not a technician by any means but within my circle of friends, nearly every problem we ran into was able to be traced to tuning of one sort or another. I won't say that there are no instances of equipment incompatability but not near as many as some might think.

A lot of the guys here could probably qualify as professional technicians and they are pretty good about helping when they can. (I don't include myself in this group by any means!) 

I just can't imagine a modern day compound bow made in such a way that a fletching clearance problem would be impossible to fix? Try spelling it out here a little more thoroughly and you may discover the problem.


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## AirborneRanger (Oct 15, 2006)

I have an Ultra Rest LD Pro Series on my 2007 BowTech Allegiance. A bow shop in Macalister OK installed it for me and we tuned it right there. It works great and I shot cock vane down.

I recommend this rest.


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## Aggie04 (Jun 20, 2006)

crazyjz said:


> It's none of my business but exactly what is hitting on what.


When I was shooting cock vane up (on a RH bow) the right vane was contacting the cables. As far as I know, there isn't any sort of tuning (i.e. moving rest or nock point) that would prevent fletching contact on the cables.


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## Jathinkysaurus (Oct 8, 2006)

I'm no expert, and I'm not familiar with the Fred bear GTX, but isn't cable-to-fletching clearance adjusted by rotating the cable guard; i.e. rotate the guard so that the cables are far enough offset to clear the fletching when your centreshot is where it needs to be. 
I'm watching this thread with interest, as I wait for my QAD Ultra LD to arrive in the mail!


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## Aggie04 (Jun 20, 2006)

Jathinkysaurus said:


> ...but isn't cable-to-fletching clearance adjusted by rotating the cable guard; i.e. rotate the guard so that the cables are far enough offset to clear the fletching when your centreshot is where it needs to be.


If I understand you correctly, you are talking about rotating the cable slide rod? 

In my case this wouldn't work since I have a straight cable guide rod on my bow.


(sorry macdude, didn't mean to hijack your thread. Hope you figured out the timing issue!  )


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## crazyjz (Sep 26, 2006)

*Aggie04*

Let me ask you another question or two if I may. Please forgive me if I accidentally insult your intelligence.

You have established a nock point approx. 90 degrees off of your arrow that while sitting on the rest is even with the berger holes? A little higher is ok and may actually be necessary to get the rest to function properly. (A Bear may actually require some other type nock position depending on what type of cams are on that bow.)

You have used some proven method to determine the centershot on your bow?

When the launcher arm is lying on the shelf of your bow, is it level or is it angled up slightly?

What kind of rest did you take off the bow before you installed the QAD? I'm just trying to visualize what may have occurred to cause fletching to contact the cables with this rest when it was ok with the previous rest?

Anyway, I maintain my premise that it can be done. There is nothing inherently wrong or different about this rest.


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## whitetailhntr71 (Jun 23, 2005)

*qad ultra*

the easiest way to get full fletching clearance is to drop your rest as close to your bows shelf as possible and build up the "v" area of the notch with mole skin, felt, or whatever. I had the same problem and put about 2 layers of moleskin in the notch. This raises the arrow enough to give the rest time to drop before the fletchings get there. You just have to lower your rest the same amount as you raised your notch. This worked fine and I think they now have a newer model that comes with 2 nothches, 1 high and one a little lower to accomplish this same thing. It worked, but I'll never buy another ultra rest.


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## Aggie04 (Jun 20, 2006)

crazyjz said:


> Let me ask you another question or two if I may. Please forgive me if I accidentally insult your intelligence.


No problem! I'm new to archery and any help is greatly apprecitated.

My nock point should be at 90 degrees, but I have no idea what Berger holes are (I assume they are the holes to mount the rest?).

I paper tuned my bow and it looked good (granted it was the first time I had ever done it so it could have been wrong).

Launcher arm is level with the shelf.

I previously had a prong style rest, but I was shooting 4" quick spins (hated them for hunting they were too loud).

I agree, this is an awsome rest, it's just newbie inexperience that is causing the problems. I think that with the higher launcher arm installed and a double check of the nocking point (which will probablly have to go a little high), everything will work out.

I'll post some pics later to show the cable clearance issues I was having.

Thanks again for the help.


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## Aggie04 (Jun 20, 2006)

Ok, here are some pics.










See how close the cables are.









See the fletching contact with the cock vane up.


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## MikeTN (Nov 2, 2004)

Could you post a pic with an arrow nocked and the launcher arm raised holding it?

Just by looking, it looks as though your rest may be set up too high. The higher up it is, the more the cables extend out into the center of the bow.


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## Aggie04 (Jun 20, 2006)

Mike here is a pic, but I don't really understand how the cables would be extending farther out in the center. On my bow, the cables are brought in closer near the center (take a look at my second photo).


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## MikeTN (Nov 2, 2004)

You're right.... I glanced at the pic and saw the STS and for some reason processed it as the cable guard.

I see a couple of things that might help.

First, your nock and rest are set up extremely high. Try lowering both. Ideally you want the center of the arrow to be the same height as the center of the Berger holes (the two holes where the rest mounts). 

If you do that, it should lower your shaft enough that it will let you shoot cock feather out without worry of hitting the top bar (I would guess you probably hit the top bar if you shot cock feather out currently).

That doesn't address the clearance issue on the cables per say, but it should give you a workable solution with your setup. Some bows just don't have as much clearance at the cables. Yours may just be one that doesn't.

At any rate, trying the above should get you shooting with no contact though. Hope this helps. Post back or PM me if you need more help.

Hope things are going well at College Station. I grew up in TX and had a bunch of friends that went to TAMU. I ended up in Nashville.


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## MikeTN (Nov 2, 2004)

One other thing I noticed. Can't be sure from pic, but it looks like your rest may be too far to the left. Once you get the nock and rest lowered you might want to double check center shot.


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## Aggie04 (Jun 20, 2006)

Thanks for the help Mike!


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## MikeTN (Nov 2, 2004)

no problem.

Let us know how everything turns out!


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## geriggs (Apr 21, 2005)

*i have similar issues.*

mine dont look as bad as his but i too worry about fletching/cable clearance on my new Bowtech Mission. When im paper tuning im tearing a bit to the left (>..) and im LH so the book tells me to move the rest to the left. i cant go any further without touching them unless i shoot cock fletch out.

it is frustrating. then i pull out my BT liberty and it was tuned when i was hunting last year but now it too is tearing that way. maybe its my form. so many variables. 

bottom line. if i can get my fixed blade BH to hit where my FTs do i'll be fine.

just got to wait till the weather gets better so i can shoot some BHs.


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## crazyjz (Sep 26, 2006)

*Good luck Aggie04*

Sounds like you're getting some good help here. Nice pics. Looks like you may need to relook at your rest height. As mentioned by another reader, it at least looks a little high. (It could just be camera angle too.)

I would go ahead and lower the rest until the launcher no longer lays flat on the shelf when at the locked down position. Move it back up just a smidge until the launcher lays flat again and tighten it up. This part of it should not change. The launcher must lay flat or you will have problems.

Determine your centershot and tighten up the set screws. Align your nock point at 90 degrees or whatever configuration is dictated by the type cams in your bow. 

You should be pretty close at this point. Set you sights up as you would normally and get to shootin! ( Minor tuning may be required during papertuning but should not require huge adjustments.)

If you are still having cable contact after correctly doing all this, I would have to consider the installation of a Saunders slide. I've got one on my Guardian for that very reason.


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## Aggie04 (Jun 20, 2006)

crazyjz said:


> If you are still having cable contact after correctly doing all this, I would have to consider the installation of a Saunders slide. I've got one on my Guardian for that very reason.


I'll be sure to report back when I got it fixed! (I'm still waiting for my felt to come in from QAD)

Crazy, I've got a Sunders slide intalled now, and I'm still having cable contact issues (you can see it in the pic).


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## Phoenix34 (Jan 18, 2005)

Aggie, I noticed on the pic that showed your arrow from behind that the right vane is pointing almost directly toward the cable. You might want to try rotating the nock a bit to lower that vane to a more downward angle.


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## crazyjz (Sep 26, 2006)

*Aggie04*

Your bow was designed by a company that has been in the bow making business for a lot of years. They did not know what kind of rest that customers would install. They did know what kind of arrows and fletching that would be used. I sincerely doubt that they built a bow with the tolerences too tight to be able to shoot without cable contact. 

The centershot will be the same without regard to which rest you are using. You have already installed the Saunders slide which pull the cables away from the arrow as much as any aftermarket slide can.

You have an issue with some aspect of your bow that I'm confident you will find. IT IS NOT THE REST THOUGH! Has anyone had your bow apart since you had your last rest installed?

I really enjoyed the years I spent in Texas and if I was still there, I'd drop over for a brewski and we'd woop this thing! You'll find out what it is soon is my bet. Keep us informed! Later!


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## Kent (Dec 30, 2005)

I shoot a SBXT with a QAD Pro Series and 2" Blazers. The bow was set up with the centershot at 9/16" My Blazers were hitting the cables and riser with cock vane up. I switched to cock vane out and fixed the problem but then I noticed the lowest of the vanes had black on them. My mole skin was worn off the inside right of the V. I moved my centershot out to the recommended 11/16" and nocked the arrow cock vane up and I think I've got it. I hope.


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