# Truck or Bow?



## WUAnonymous (Nov 21, 2011)

Parents said to put it in the car*** sory, just proof read it, I pad likes to correct things


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## Ignition kid (Oct 7, 2008)

I'd say get the truck, you and your brother can earn $1,000 each and then get you a nice truck that only needs some work to it. find you a truck that's mechanically sound, no oil leaks or major problems with it, and the frame/chassis being in great condition and then if the body is in okay condition or needs some paint and/or bodywork then you get the truvk, and then get an estimate on the bodywork and save up for that.

to give you an idea, my truck which is a 94 chevy k1500 has 165k miles on it, has no engine problems at all, everything works but the A/C compressor is about to die out on me which when that happens is $200 for a new one which isnt too bad. the body, frame and chassis has absolutely no rust on it at all, the truck runs like a champ, rides smooth, and this truck has all the bells and whistles on it for it being a 94, power windows&door locks, power driver's seat, both being bucket seats w/center console, Z71 off-Road package (which is a 4x4 w/ a 3.73 gear ratio, auto locking rear diff., skid plates & Bilstein shocks) and the interior is in great shape, just needed cleaned up. it cost $1,200. then it needed painted and only very slightly bodywork which was the repair the slight dent in the tailgate and the very small ding in the passenger door. I took it to maaco to get it priced, they had to do extra sanding since when I got it it had primer over the exsisting paint, but I got it painted a different color (was bright red, got it painted dark red metallic) and for them to do all the work includong painting the door jambs and adding an extra clear coat on it cost me $1,200. it would have costed $100 less than that but the paint on the top of the rear fender was bubbling so they had to cure the fiberglass (stepside).

so right there all that was $2,400 and that made it a stock, great running and low miles (for it being 18 years old) truck. now I also went and put true dual flowmaster exhaust on it w/ flowmaster 40's and connected to some Hedman Hedders and then put a K&N cold air intake in place of the factory intake. and then we went and spent $50 to get some silverw/black outline Z71 Off-Road decals made for it and in the same colors had them make a Chevrolet lgog for the tailgate written in cursive. now all I want/got to do to it is buy new tires for it which other than the truck and the paint job will cost the most, then I got some clean, new looking factory wheels for it to replace the old stained ones, then I'll spend $75 to buy some DIY bedliner for it, then maybe $150 for some euro style headlights and tailights, and then I spent $70 for an all chrome grille for it too, and I recently spent $35 for a used but nothiong wrong with chip for my truck to give it more power and fuel mileage also. all in all by the time I'm completely done with it and there are other things that I'll do that I didnt list it might cost me $5,000 and that's a truck that's better than brand new, runs great, and quick  looks awesome, sounds awesoem and gets just as good fual mileage as any brand new 4x4 truck on the road today and always keep in mind small little repairs are cheaper than a car payment, and you can find trucks cheaper than that too, all depending on who you get it from, how much work you got to do, and what kind of truck you're looking for.
my sister is getting a 2001 Chevy S-10 single cab short bed, has bucket seats, good paint job, only has a couple dings in it and a few small scratches, bucket setas, cold a/c, has less than $150k miles on it, 2wd but has a 4cyl. and she's getting it for $2,800 and it has absolutely no problems at all, it's pretty much like brand new, it'll need tires one day but theyre good for now and since her job is more than 30 min. away it for her is perfect since it will get at least 30mpg on the highway which is what she needs.
now u can always be like me and get the big 350 V-8 and w/ the stuff I did get 19-20mpg on the highway but I dont drive it a million miles a year, since I've had it since January, I've driven it maybe 1,500 miles.


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## Ignition kid (Oct 7, 2008)

wow I didnt know I posted such a long message, sorry lol!

in shorter words, get a truck, you cant drive your bow to work


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## hunter-4-life (Feb 22, 2011)

My parents told me the same story, but i have job (not sayin yours isnt, but a part time job) and i wanted to buy another bow just to have around. They wouldnt let me until i had bought my vehicle. Now im glad i bought the vehicle first b/c i can go anywhere and shoot that bow, or go to the movies or anywhere.


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## outdoorsman3 (Nov 15, 2010)

buy a truck, work with the truck, buy a bow! but DO NOT cheap out on a vehicle, 1000 bucks looks like a steal, but when it needs 2000 dollars of repairs.. its a big ol' kick in the teeth


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## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

Buy a truck. I'm buying a new truck Tuesday. A car is more important than a bow. Like Ben says, don't skimp on a car.

Jake


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## BirdDawg350 (Jul 7, 2011)

stuff gets expensive.... my old man said that since i have a full time job in the summers that i have to pay for everything myself (besides food and those things) which is my car, gas, insurance, my bike, and everything else. id put it into a truck, then get real good at shooting and get some sponsors (; that will make the hunting side cheaper.


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## Ignition kid (Oct 7, 2008)

yep you definitely need a ride to go shoot at the bow shop, or to go and get your next bow


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## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

You don't get sponsored to get discounts. You get sponsored because you want to spread the sport of archery.

Jake


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