# Starter String Jig



## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

If you are looking at getting into string building, but do not want to lay out a ton of cash for a high-dollar string jig and string stretcher, you might want to take a look at this one I built many years ago and am still using today. It is constructed mainly from Superstrut or Unistrut parts and components with the exception of two close line hooks and a square 3/8" thread U-bracket. The only machining you will need to do is to cut the U-bracket in half to make the jig posts. Also, you will want to attach a couple small pieces of clear plastic tubing to the upper and lower ends of the jig posts to keep the strands in place as you build the string.








Below is another view of one of the assembled jig heads with a small block Chevy valve spring attached as a tensioner for the string stretcher. George Ryals IV has a great CD that explains how to build a string using a two-post jig. http://www.lancasterarchery.com/professional-tuning-techniques-dvd-by-george-ryals-iv.html. If you have any questions, I am just a PM away. If you take these pics to Lowes or Home Depot the guys in the electrical department will get you fixed up with all the parts you need.

Once you get the hang of string building, you will be cranking out strings and cables for a fraction of the price you would pay for purchasing them, plus you will have the satisfaction of shooting a string you custom-built yourself on a jig you also build yourself. This jig is for the guy who builds a few strings a year, not for someone who plans to crank out a couple sets a week, but it will get you into the game quickly and cheaply. If you build a couple sets for a buddy or two, you will quickly recover all the costs of your initial setup and you will soon be building strings for simply the cost of materials.

Here is a pic of a string I built using this jig. (I just did a preview of this post and discovered that I know nothing about attaching pics where I want them, but you can figure it out.)









Automan


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

You and I are similar lol. I spent 18 years turning wrenches and built a 2X72 grinder years ago and the tracking assembly was made from a mitsubishi jet valve spring lol. I also built a 1x30 grinder and used an auto tranny servo piston as the drive pully for the grinder shaft and a timing belt tensioner pulley/assembly and spring from a 3.0 liter Chrysler engine for the belt tensioner. Amazing how you can turn scrap iron into stuff isn't it? :wink:


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

Martin_Shooter1 said:


> You and I are similar lol. I spent 18 years turning wrenches and built a 2X72 grinder years ago and the tracking assembly was made from a mitsubishi jet valve spring lol. I also built a 1x30 grinder and used an auto tranny servo piston as the drive pully for the grinder shaft and a timing belt tensioner pulley/assembly and spring from a 3.0 liter Chrysler engine for the belt tensioner. Amazing how you can turn scrap iron into stuff isn't it? :wink:


I see you are from Iowa. I grew up in Storm Lake and though my body is in South Dakota, my heart is still in Iowa. My favorite movie line comes from Field of Dreams--"Is this heaven?"--"No, it's Iowa." (WOW, I just hijacked my own thread.)

Automan


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## Marvin (Feb 17, 2005)

Thanks for posting that automan!!


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## justshutupnhunt (May 5, 2011)

I may have to try this one. Thanks for the post,


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

*Fyi*

I took the bow in my earlier post (post 1) out yesterday and shot the strings I built on the jig I showed in the pics and after about 60 shots there was no peep rotation. This cheap-o jig builds one nasty string.

Auktoman


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## Martin_Shooter1 (Jan 25, 2012)

automan26 said:


> I took the bow in my earlier post (post 1) out yesterday and shot the strings I built on the jig I showed in the pics and after about 60 shots there was no peep rotation. This cheap-o jig builds one nasty string.
> 
> Auktoman


How many shots typically does it take for any string to stretch? I always thought they meant after a few hundred shots it will stretch. I always thought it would be cool to build my own but looking at your machine means nothing :wink:lol cause I don't know the first thing about string building.


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

I have found that strings often stretch for the first 100 shots or so then settle in. A really good set of strings may not stretch at all. I put a link into my first post that directs you to a DVD that has a lot of great info, including a section on string building. I have been building strings for years, but I picked up a pointer that made the cost of the DVD worth my money.

Automan


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

this is a pretty cool setup for the average DIY'er. It will get people into building their own strings at a real budget price. Great idea thanks for sharing!


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## milsy (Jun 9, 2010)

This looks like a great idea. I'm hoping to start building some string this summer...... Thanks for the post, I may take you up on the PM offer if i have any questions though.........:wink:


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

milsy said:


> This looks like a great idea. I'm hoping to start building some string this summer...... Thanks for the post, I may take you up on the PM offer if i have any questions though.........:wink:


I am willing to help out in any way I can so don't hesitate to get in touch. Also, the DVD I have linked in my first post will answer questions you never thought about asking. I purchased it looking for something I never found, but even though I have been building strings for years, the section on string making gave me a tip that was well worth the price of the DVD.

Auktoman


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

Looks great!....Good post, thanks.


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## StoneyN (Dec 6, 2011)

Automan,

What size uni-strut is that and what can I use instead of a chevy valve spring?


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

I purchased a standard 10 foot section and cut it down so I can build about a 70" string. I have another 10 foot section that I left uncut so I can do single cam strings. I don't know what you could use to replace the Chevy valve spring, but if you go to any auto salvage yard you can pick one up for nearly nothing.

Automan


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## StoneyN (Dec 6, 2011)

automan26 said:


> I purchased a standard 10 foot section and cut it down so I can build about a 70" string. I have another 10 foot section that I left uncut so I can do single cam strings. I don't know what you could use to replace the Chevy valve spring, but if you go to any auto salvage yard you can pick one up for nearly nothing.
> 
> Automan



Thanks!!


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## shinobi3 (Jun 20, 2009)

thanks for posting automan...this is awesome!!


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## mattheww1377 (Apr 8, 2010)

is the spring a double , triple, or just a single with oil dampner ? I think this is an awesome idea...


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## Spikealot (May 27, 2009)

StoneyN said:


> Automan,
> 
> What size uni-strut is that and what can I use instead of a chevy valve spring?


I used a Harley valve spring on mine.


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

mattheww1377 said:


> is the spring a double , triple, or just a single with oil dampner ? I think this is an awesome idea...


It is a single spring with the dampener inside. Any really stiff spring will work. That's interesting about using the Harley spring. I guess I would have never thought a spring on a smaller engine like that would have enough tension, but it must.

Automan


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## milsy (Jun 9, 2010)

automan26 said:


> I purchased a standard 10 foot section and cut it down so I can build about a 70" string. I have another 10 foot section that I left uncut so I can do single cam strings. I don't know what you could use to replace the Chevy valve spring, but if you go to any auto salvage yard you can pick one up for nearly nothing.
> 
> Automan



So does this mean you cut the strut to 70"? Shorter or longer?? I have all the parts now, looking to put together in a week or so!


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

I would suggest that you set your two jig heads and lay out your sting on the uncut section of Unistrut and then look at how much of the strut you have remaining and trim the strut so that you can not only build the string you are working on, but can build something maybe 10" or so longer. If you are building a single cam string, you will want to leave the strut totally uncut. The only reason I trimmed the strut in the first place was so that I could find a place to store it in my very tiny little house. I have a shed out back where I keep an uncut section for the times when I need to build a 100"+ string. Cutting the strut is an option, if you want to leave it long, no problem.


I am curious. It has been a long time since I priced the cost of all the materials needed to build this jig. How much do you have invested in jig parts alone at this point?

Automan


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## BTARCHER (Dec 2, 2006)

Great idea!


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## milsy (Jun 9, 2010)

automan26 said:


> I would suggest that you set your two jig heads and lay out your sting on the uncut section of Unistrut and then look at how much of the strut you have remaining and trim the strut so that you can not only build the string you are working on, but can build something maybe 10" or so longer. If you are building a single cam string, you will want to leave the strut totally uncut. The only reason I trimmed the strut in the first place was so that I could find a place to store it in my very tiny little house. I have a shed out back where I keep an uncut section for the times when I need to build a 100"+ string. Cutting the strut is an option, if you want to leave it long, no problem.
> 
> 
> I am curious. It has been a long time since I priced the cost of all the materials needed to build this jig. How much do you have invested in jig parts alone at this point?
> ...



Very little, I am an electrician so the strut and hard ware was basically free......... the only hold up now is finding a strong enough spring........... and a ``how to``video to get me started. Lots to learn ie: string lengths, serving lengths, number of strands, etc etc  to say the least!


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

milsy said:


> Very little, I am an electrician so the strut and hard ware was basically free......... the only hold up now is finding a strong enough spring........... and a ``how to``video to get me started. Lots to learn ie: string lengths, serving lengths, number of strands, etc etc  to say the least!


Check out the link in my first post. The link is to a great DVD that has a section on string building that fits this jig perfectly. 


Here is a good formula for determining the proper number of twists and the finished string length:
Finished Length X .75 = Number of Twists
Number of twists X .012 + finished length= Initial Jig Post Setting.
Example: 100” string
100 X .75=75 (Twists)
75 X .012=0.9”
100” + 0.9”=100.9” (Initial Post Setting)
Add 75 twists to your 100.9” string and you should be very close to your finished length.
(OR—I have an Excel spread sheet I can send you that does all this automatically.)

PM me your email address and I can send you the Excel spread sheet that will do all the calculations for you.

Automan


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## brandonlw (Feb 23, 2011)

marking for later


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## Ancient Archer (Sep 25, 2008)

An interesting, economical design indeed! In a jig/stretcher such as this, at what point in the process are the end loops served?


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## flag (Oct 4, 2009)

he probally uses tag ends to serve the loops all is needed is a two post jig for that


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

Ancient Archer said:


> An interesting, economical design indeed! In a jig/stretcher such as this, at what point in the process are the end loops served?



It's interesting that this thread should pop up at this particular time. I am currently building a string on this jig and just sat down at my computer to surf AT while it stretches out. I have the end loops served and the twists installed and I am going to let it set for awhile. I'm in no hurry to get it finished so it may stretch for a few days before I get back to it.

The end loops are served, using the tag ends, before the string is removed from the jig posts. This method, hands-down, beats the way end loops are served on a 4-poster.

GRIV has a great DVD "Professional Tuning Techniques" which gives a great visual demo, but here is my best attempt to describe the process:

Without a visual demonstration this is difficult to explain, but very easy to do in practice. I think that once you start, you will pick up on it and very quickly figure out what I am trying to describe.

After you finish winding your strands, you will have two tag ends hanging off the end of the post. Cross the tag ends then bring them around the post and take them down through the center of the two bundles on either side of the post. Separate them then pull them tightly, in a rearward direction, so that you pull them back to the center on the rear side of the post. Pull them until they come together at the back of the post. Essentially, you will be winding each individual tag end around each of the two opposite bundles simultaneously. 

Repeat this procedure over and over until you have wrapped the end loops to the point where, if you pulled the served ends together, you will have an end loop of the correct size. Now, put the two tag ends together and wrap them both around both bundles tight enough to pull the bundles together to form an end loop, then tightly wrap them around the string three or four times. 

At this point, back-wrap the tag ends with three or four winds and tie them off just like you would tie off a center serving. Make sure you pull hard and get the back-wraps very tight.

Once you have both end-loops completed move the string from the posts to the hooks, install the correct number of twists and crank down on the hooks until the string is as tight as a guitar string. Let it set for an hour or so before proceeding. While the string is stretching out I like to periodically pluck several times it as though the string was on the bow during the shot. I feel that this vibration helps the strands find the place they want to be at.

Now simply apply the proper length of end serving, just like you would do with a center serving, until you get the proper length and back-tie it off.

Automan


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## gutpilz (Oct 3, 2008)

nother great string building post


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

I rushed out and got a U-bolt, took a minute to figure out that you have to snug it down so it doesn't turn, but it is the ticket!


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## Ancient Archer (Sep 25, 2008)

automan26 said:


> It's interesting that this thread should pop up at this particular time. I am currently building a string on this jig and just sat down at my computer to surf AT while it stretches out. I have the end loops served and the twists installed and I am going to let it set for awhile. I'm in no hurry to get it finished so it may stretch for a few days before I get back to it.
> 
> The end loops are served, using the tag ends, before the string is removed from the jig posts. This method, hands-down, beats the way end loops are served on a 4-poster.
> 
> ...


Automan, that is a great description & I believe it answers the question I had about when/how to serve the ends & end loops. I do believe I understande your description, but to avoid a possible misunderstanding, is there any chance that you could post some "in-process" pictures of you serving the end loops?

For example: When you write "take them down through the center of the two bundles", I interpret that to mean that you must separate the string bundle into equal number of strands & then insert the tag ends through them from opposing sides of the bundle to capture the bundle. Is this correct? If so, then I think that would leave a knot at the center of the eye with serving leading away from this knot until the loop serving is long enough. Correct?


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

Ancient Archer said:


> Automan, that is a great description & I believe it answers the question I had about when/how to serve the ends & end loops. I do believe I understande your description, but to avoid a possible misunderstanding, is there any chance that you could post some "in-process" pictures of you serving the end loops?
> 
> For example: When you write "take them down through the center of the two bundles", I interpret that to mean that you must separate the string bundle into equal number of strands & then insert the tag ends through them from opposing sides of the bundle to capture the bundle. Is this correct? If so, then I think that would leave a knot at the center of the eye with serving leading away from this knot until the loop serving is long enough. Correct?


Once you have your string wound around the posts, with two long tag ends (12"+) follow the pics below. (Sorry, but my skills in "Paint" really suck.) I thought about making photos, but it would be really difficult to show what I want to say in a photo.



























This description is a lot more confusing than the procedure is in actual practice. Once you get started you will quickly figure out what I am trying to show here.

Automan


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

I forgot to mention that if you are building a two-color string, wind the strands of the second color so the tag ends are on the opposite post and follow the exact same procedure as you followed with the first two tag ends.

Automan


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## Ancient Archer (Sep 25, 2008)

Thanks AM26, that was a great write-up.

The description is very clear. I'm glad now that I asked for clarification as I misunderstood the first description. This technique is really very simple & downright practical, especially for anyone whose interest is to only make strings & cables for themselves, or to repair them.

Now, if using the back-to-back 90° brackets, do you find them to "give" when applying 100lbs of tension?

Thanks for your idea! I'm sure you've helped a lot of archers with this one!

AA


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

*Edit to previous diagrams*

After looking over my diagrams above, I found something that might cause some confusion. Disregard the last diagram and instead focus on the one below. I may have given the impression that the tag end goes around the post after every wrap is made. This is not correct. Once you have twisted the tag ends once, then have gone around the post, under the bundle and have pulled the two wraps together behind the post, do not take the tag ends around the post again. Continue wrapping the tag ends around the bundles, being sure to keep the tag end on the same bundle until the loop is sufficiently served along both sides. (Now I have proably done more to confuse you than to help, so I will just shut up and go away for now.)









Automan


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## Ancient Archer (Sep 25, 2008)

Automan, your previous diagram & explanation was perfectly clear. If one were to have wrapped the first turn around the post, then there would have been a loop at the center of the serving.

What has been your experience with the 90° brackets leaning when applying tension? I suspect they stand up pretty well. I'll just get the largest, sturdiest ones I can find, 6 inchers if they are available, for extra strength & to provide more clearance for the bobbin when center serving. What size were yours?


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

Ancient Archer said:


> Thanks AM26, that was a great write-up.
> 
> The description is very clear. I'm glad now that I asked for clarification as I misunderstood the first description. This technique is really very simple & downright practical, especially for anyone whose interest is to only make strings & cables for themselves, or to repair them.
> 
> ...


When assembling the string, I use the 90 degree brackets to wind the strands snuggly and evenly and to wrap the end loops. Next I move the string to the hooks, add my twists and stretch the string under enough pressure that I can pluck it like a guitar string. After allowing the string to stretch across the hooks for awhile (depending on if I want the string today or next week) I loosen the hooks to 100#, check/adjust my length, then tighten it back up and apply the end and center serving.


I truly believe that this method of building strings on this Cheap-O 2-poster builds a better string than can be built on a 4-post jig. I have a Yellowstone Dream Machine, 4-poster that just sits idle these days. The Automan El-Cheap-O does a great job.

Automan


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## Ancient Archer (Sep 25, 2008)

Great post! Very helpful! Thanks for your help!


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## joe171 (Jan 8, 2012)

*Simple and it works*

You can use to stretch or reserve your string ( not my design ) 
Joe171


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

Hey thanks automan26. I've been kicking around the idea of building my own strings and maybe some for my buddies but haven't really seen anything that I could build with my limited space and budget. This looks like something I could pull off.


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

Huntinsker said:


> Hey thanks automan26. I've been kicking around the idea of building my own strings and maybe some for my buddies but haven't really seen anything that I could build with my limited space and budget. This looks like something I could pull off.


A few days ago I installed a string on my Guardian that was built using this simple jig. So far there is zero peep rotation and the bow shoots great. For those of us who only build a few strings and cables a year, this simple jig is the ticket.

Automan


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## rhythmz (Jan 10, 2010)

Automan, you have just awakened a sleeping giant...I'm going to give string building a try...could you send that spreadsheet and any additional resources you may have to [email protected]...

Thank you very, very much for educating us time after time...between you and nuts&bolts, I have learned so much over the years!!!! You are a blessing to the sport!!!!


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## kc hay seed (Jul 12, 2007)

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=60235&referrerid=22477 here is a good how to on string making.hope this helps


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## kc hay seed (Jul 12, 2007)

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1356672&referrerid=22477 here is another that is real good also.


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

rhythmz said:


> Automan, you have just awakened a sleeping giant...I'm going to give string building a try...could you send that spreadsheet and any additional resources you may have to [email protected]...


Did you get that spreadsheet I emailed to you?

Automan


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Hey Automan26

As I stated in my previous post this is a great starter system and really all you need for 1 or 2 stings a year string builder. Which I would guess is 90% of the would be string builders. I've book marked this and I've referred anyone asking about making a string jig back to this thread. It's definitely a good place to start.

My Question is when referring to this jig can we assume that the "Official" name hence forth shall be the *"El-Cheap-O"*?

Having a common name will help us to refer to it in other threads.


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## rhythmz (Jan 10, 2010)

automan26 said:


> Did you get that spreadsheet I emailed to you?
> 
> Automan


Yes sir I did...I will send you pics of my results when I get the rig up and going. THank you very much sir, God Bless!!!!


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

b0w_bender said:


> Hey Automan26
> 
> As I stated in my previous post this is a great starter system and really all you need for 1 or 2 stings a year string builder. Which I would guess is 90% of the would be string builders. I've book marked this and I've referred anyone asking about making a string jig back to this thread. It's definitely a good place to start.
> 
> ...


Consider it done--*EL-CHEAP-O* is hence forth be the official name of this jig. (I love it!!!!)

Automan


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## echatham (May 16, 2012)

saved for later... hey does anyone have an estimate on cost of all the parts?


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## diamondback21 (Oct 20, 2008)

echatham said:


> saved for later... hey does anyone have an estimate on cost of all the parts?


About $50


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## rhythmz (Jan 10, 2010)

My only question with this design (and other 2-post jigs) is how do you serve your ends being that you can't get a serving jig around a string on one side of a post without hitting the other string. I love the simplicity of this design but wondering how to overcome this obstacle. With a 3-post jig, you can simply do your serving between the posts on the twin-post end then slide the string until the served end is now wrapped around the single post end...just not sure how to accoumplish this with this design....


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

rhythmz said:


> My only question with this design (and other 2-post jigs) is how do you serve your ends being that you can't get a serving jig around a string on one side of a post without hitting the other string. I love the simplicity of this design but wondering how to overcome this obstacle. With a 3-post jig, you can simply do your serving between the posts on the twin-post end then slide the string until the served end is now wrapped around the single post end...just not sure how to accoumplish this with this design....


You serve the end loops by wrapping the tag ends around and inside the opposing bundles, then pulling the tag ends out and to the back of the post and repeating the process over and over until you have a served loop, then back-wrap it and tie it off. There is an description of the process in some earlier posts.

I feel that using this process makes the two-post the best choice for building strings because you can wrap the end loops without having to disturb the string on the jig once the strands have been wound.

Automan


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## rhythmz (Jan 10, 2010)

Automan, I didn't mean for you to have to repeat yourself..sorry about that. I didn't quite understand how to use the previous diagrams for serving the center serving but got ahead of myself without thinking harder about it. By the time I get to the center serving, the string will have been twisteed stretched and only around a single post. 

I went and bought all the hardware today but Home Depotdid not have the square-end u-bolts so I'll have to try Lowes after work tomorrow. I am placing my order with Lil Jon in the morning as well then it is off the building strings!!!


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

check out this pictorial on tag end wrapping by George Ryals (AKA The GRIV) so far it's the best one I've come across it shows it relatively well.
http://http://www.archerylive.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1921

We really need to have a video done on this, I'll add that to my to-do list.


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

b0w_bender said:


> check out this pictorial on tag end wrapping by George Ryals (AKA The GRIV) so far it's the best one I've come across it shows it relatively well.
> http://http://www.archerylive.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1921
> 
> We really need to have a video done on this, I'll add that to my to-do list.


For some reason, I couldn't get your link to open, but I found this one on the same site and I think it is the one you are trying to show.

Let's hope this link works--It's really good.

http://www.archerylive.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1921&st=0&p=13886&fromsearch=1&#entry13886

Automan


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## kc hay seed (Jul 12, 2007)

automan; how far does the valve spring have to move for the 300 lbs of tension? 1/4"1/2"?


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## rhythmz (Jan 10, 2010)

Automan26,

I guess my greatest confusion lies in the jig head with the spring. How do you set the head up to facilitate tension? I mean do you start with the spring compress and simply loosen (uncompress) the spring causing the sring to get pulled back toward the jig head? If I waited until I tightened the jig head until after the string is on, then tightening after determining my proper length would essentially produce slack in the string since I would be bringing the hook closer to the opposing post? 

I bought the red spring that was mentioned in another post but I also have a digital scale that I can place inline with the string if needed to determine when my tension reaches #300lbs.

I am just confused on howto use the jig head with the spring correctly...I think I got everything else down pat since our PM conversations. Thanks again for the advice!!!


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Bummer I can't get my link or yours to work I'm sure it's the same article. George manages that sight, It looks like he is getting a DB error now. Perhaps when it comes back online we can get it resolved and get the right link posted.


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

rhythmz said:


> Automan26,
> 
> I guess my greatest confusion lies in the jig head with the spring. How do you set the head up to facilitate tension? I mean do you start with the spring compress and simply loosen (uncompress) the spring causing the sring to get pulled back toward the jig head? If I waited until I tightened the jig head until after the string is on, then tightening after determining my proper length would essentially produce slack in the string since I would be bringing the hook closer to the opposing post?
> 
> ...


I think you are having a problem visualizing the process. Once you establish your initial jig post setting your string will be what it will be. Tension does one of two things: High tension (300lbs) stretches the string and gets all the strands to fall in place so the string can establish a "set". The only time high tensions are used is after the string has been constructed to length. When you tension the string to 100lbs, all you are doing is checking and adjusting the string length according to uniform industry measurement standards. It the initial post setting that establishes the basic length.

As long as you have tension on the spring, you will never get slack in the string, the string length may appear to change with differing tensions because the string will flex a bit as tension increases or decreases, but the only measurement that counts is the measurement under 100lbs of tension.

Once the string has been built, use high tension when serving it and stretching it. After it has been served use 100lbs of tension to insure that it is the proper length before installing it on the bow.

When I set my jig posts, I bottom out (coil bind) my tensioning spring by using the adjustments on the head holding the spring. If you want to take the time, you could remove the spring and lock down the hooks so they can't move when you do your initial string construction. After the string is build, then you can use the different tensions to set the string and determine its correct length.

If I am still not understanding your question, hit me again and I'll see what I can do. I am only a click away and I am anxious to answer any questions you may have.

(I have been a classroom teacher for 30 years and I love answering questions, but sadly over the past 30 years I have not had all that many questions to answer except for "What's for lunch?" or "Why do we have to do this #@&*#^ anyway?" Make my day and ask away!!!

Automan


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

I just thought of something you should try. Build yourself a 16" string for practice. If it works, you have a nice floating yoke and you can build another. If you screw it up, you have not lost anything serious. You will screw up your first couple attempts, we all do, but keep going and you will be a master string builder quicker than you might expect.

Automan


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## sb220 (Jul 20, 2009)

rhythmz said:


> Automan26,
> 
> I guess my greatest confusion lies in the jig head with the spring. How do you set the head up to facilitate tension? I mean do you start with the spring compress and simply loosen (uncompress) the spring causing the sring to get pulled back toward the jig head? If I waited until I tightened the jig head until after the string is on, then tightening after determining my proper length would essentially produce slack in the string since I would be bringing the hook closer to the opposing post?
> 
> ...


Im still trying to grasp this stuff also, as Im going to dabble with string building myself. 

If Ive read things correctly, the spring has nothing to do with putting tension on the string. Tightening the bolts and drawing the posts apart do that. 

The spring is in place to record "compression" marks while using your scale. Say make a mark at 100lb, 200lb and 300lb. Then after the initial setup, you can refer to those measurements instead of having a scale between your posts

Looking at his stretcher posts again, it looks like you would tighten the post without the spring, which in turn would start to pull the spring post and compress the spring....right Automan?

Also I guess since there is nothing to make marks on with this setup are you just taking a measurement of the spring?

And one more question after writing all this....I see alot of stretchers with these spring set-ups. What is the advantage over just putting a scale between your posts?


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## rhythmz (Jan 10, 2010)

Perhaps the confusion in me lies in the actual operation of the spring jig head than the purpose of it. My best estimation was correct in that I start with a spring that is fully compressed so that when I proceed to apply my high tension I simply loosen (un-compress) the spring...

However, how do I cxonstruct the hook into the jig in such a way that it moves forward and backward as to react to my compressing and un-compressing the spring? The photos make it appear that the hook is bolted to the jig head in a fixed manner that would make the spring useless as it is attached to the thread end of the hook from the other side of the jig head. 

I am going to assume that the entire jig head remains bolted to the strut...so my question then becomes, how should I construct the actual jig head so that manipulating the spring moves the hook forward and backward through the head thus putting tension on the spring when needed?

I'm almost there with understanding this. You'll have to excuse my analytical skills if they appear to be over active...I am a software developer by trade so it is a plus in one sense and sometimes a curse in another.


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## sb220 (Jul 20, 2009)

I don't think you adjust tension by using the spring post at all. Once that is set up the way pictured, you don't mess with those bolts/nuts.
You would tighten loosen the other hook bolt that doesn't have the spring attached.
In doing so it pulls on the spring hook, compressing/relaxing it. Once you've measured the spring at different weights using your scale, you no longer need to use a scale.
That's my understanding from other stretchers anyways. The spring is there to eliminate the need of a scale.

Take a close look at the little John stretcher on his website. If you notice the poundage marks under the spring cut out, it may help get it to click what I'm saying about using the spring to determine holding weight.


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## rhythmz (Jan 10, 2010)

sb220 said:


> I don't think you adjust tension by using the spring post at all. Once that is set up the way pictured, you don't mess with those bolts/nuts.
> You would tighten loosen the other hook bolt that doesn't have the spring attached.
> In doing so it pulls on the spring hook, compressing/relaxing it. Once you've measured the spring at different weights using your scale, you no longer need to use a scale.
> That's my understanding from other stretchers anyways. The spring is there to eliminate the need of a scale.
> ...


Ah ha!!! That makes sense...I never even let the other end enter my mind. Thank you so very, very much for this tidbit of help. It definately makes sense!!!


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## wsbark01 (Feb 26, 2009)

Has anyone used this set up and stretched it to 300# or more? I have heard that the hooks can't hold that much weight and they will straighten out. Anyone commit on this?


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

wsbark01 said:


> Has anyone used this set up and stretched it to 300# or more? I have heard that the hooks can't hold that much weight and they will straighten out. Anyone commit on this?


I don't know about 300#, but I have pulled some nasty tension on my jig and there was absolutely no sign of problems with the hooks. I pull enough tension that I flex the SuperStrut and when I pluck the string I get a high pitch tone. I actually believe I am getting way more than 300#. Whatever tension I do get, it has been enough to do the job quite well.

Currently I am designing another jig--the El-Cheap-O Delux. It will be similar to a Little John, but can be built for around $65 with a minimum of machining. Stay tuned!!!

Automan


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## Stickbower (Sep 17, 2011)

Automan PM sent

Nick


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## Stickbower (Sep 17, 2011)

Automan PM sent 

Nick


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## wsbark01 (Feb 26, 2009)

automan26 said:


> I don't know about 300#, but I have pulled some nasty tension on my jig and there was absolutely no sign of problems with the hooks. I pull enough tension that I flex the SuperStrut and when I pluck the string I get a high pitch tone. I actually believe I am getting way more than 300#. Whatever tension I do get, it has been enough to do the job quite well.
> 
> Currently I am designing another jig--the El-Cheap-O Delux. It will be similar to a Little John, but can be built for around $65 with a minimum of machining. Stay tuned!!!
> 
> Automan


O.k. So you have peeked my interest, how about some preview pics? I am about to build a jig and if its only gonna be about $20 more for a better jig I don't want to go out and spend money that is unneeded. Or just PM me if you don't want to release them publicly!


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

wsbark01 said:


> O.k. So you have peeked my interest, how about some preview pics? I am about to build a jig and if its only gonna be about $20 more for a better jig I don't want to go out and spend money that is unneeded. Or just PM me if you don't want to release them publicly!


I still have to get all my parts together in the same room. I had planned to have everything ready by last Friday, but it all fell through. As soon as I have it together and have built a string I will be on AT like Oprah on a baked ham to get it posted.

It will be built using many of the parts of my first El-Cheap-O so if you already have the first one built, the delux version is not going to be much of an investment at all.

Automan


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## wsbark01 (Feb 26, 2009)

automan26 said:


> I still have to get all my parts together in the same room. I had planned to have everything ready by last Friday, but it all fell through. As soon as I have it together and have built a string I will be on AT like Oprah on a baked ham to get it posted.
> 
> It will be built using many of the parts of my first El-Cheap-O so if you already have the first one built, the delux version is not going to be much of an investment at all.
> 
> Automan


Haven't bought anything yet so I will wait to see the new jig! I hope I don't have to wait to long!


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

wsbark01 said:


> Haven't bought anything yet so I will wait to see the new jig! I hope I don't have to wait to long!


First, I have to assemble the parts. Next I have to build a string, and then I have to shoot the string to make sure it will perform over the long haul. Building a set of strings and cables is labor intensive no matter whose jig you use so I am guessing that it will be at least a couple weeks before I can recommend it for others to build. However I will post a picture of the prototype as soon as I have it assembled. Maybe by this weekend. (Maybe)

Automan


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## rhythmz (Jan 10, 2010)

Automan26, I have began building my first string using your design. However, my kid's bow has split yoke cables so I am brainstorming quite a bit on how to do this with the current design...any suggestions or can I assume you may possibly be addressing this with the new, improved design?

I personally have an Assassin so a build for my strings will be much easier for binary cams!!! But my kid needs a set first so....


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

rhythmz said:


> Automan26, I have began building my first string using your design. However, my kid's bow has split yoke cables so I am brainstorming quite a bit on how to do this with the current design...any suggestions


I'll give it a shot. Create the string at twice it's length. Server both ends. Remove it from the jig. Fold it in half so the fold becomes the single loop end. The two ends you served at first, each become one side of the yoke.
serv that up and then add your twists and stretch as desired. Lastly put in the serving that determines the length of the yoke.


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## wsbark01 (Feb 26, 2009)

rhythmz said:


> Automan26, I have began building my first string using your design. However, my kid's bow has split yoke cables so I am brainstorming quite a bit on how to do this with the current design...any suggestions or can I assume you may possibly be addressing this with the new, improved design?
> 
> I personally have an Assassin so a build for my strings will be much easier for binary cams!!! But my kid needs a set first so....


Here is a how to with pics


http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1356672&highlight=Split+yoke


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## rhythmz (Jan 10, 2010)

leave it to b0w_bender to dumb it down for a knucklehead like me. Thanks brother!!!


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## wsbark01 (Feb 26, 2009)

automan26 said:


> First, I have to assemble the parts. Next I have to build a string, and then I have to shoot the string to make sure it will perform over the long haul. Building a set of strings and cables is labor intensive no matter whose jig you use so I am guessing that it will be at least a couple weeks before I can recommend it for others to build. However I will post a picture of the prototype as soon as I have it assembled. Maybe by this weekend. (Maybe)
> 
> Automan


I hope we get to see some pic of the new set up!!!!!


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

*The All New and Re-Designed El-Cheap-O Delux*

This is still in the prototype stage, but it looks like it might do the trick. I built a short practice string and everything worked fairly well. There is still a very small bug or two that I want to work out, but so far I am happy.

It is made from 5/8 All-thread and nuts, 5 1/2" compression spring, Unistrut corner brackets, I-bolts with a 1" hole, and other assorted hardware. Once I have built a string and shot it, I will post up some more assembly instructions. This thing took some unbelievable engineering and I went through a bunch of design changes, just to get this far. Every part you see is necessary in order to overcome some nasty problems, but it all seems to be working out fine.

Good News--It can still be built for around $60.00!!!! Also, like my previous design, I built this to be assembled using a minimum of machining. Using just a hacksaw and a drill press you can build this thing fairly easily.

Automan


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## TargetShooter2 (Dec 10, 2010)

*stretcher*

on your 1/4 20 allen head bolt going through the nut for the string post , you would be better off drilling through the rod where you will be able to get more of the threads into the nut/rod area . to each is their own but i wouldnt trust putting 200 or more pounds of tension on the bolt with only a few threads holding it in place . i have had a post cut loose at 550 lbs and it will 
get your attention quick 
.

on the third pic it looks like you have them run through , if so 
then you can discard my reply 

TS2





automan26 said:


> This is still in the prototype stage, but it looks like it might do the trick. I built a short practice string and everything worked fairly well. There is still a very small bug or two that I want to work out, but so far I am happy.
> 
> It is made from 5/8 All-thread and nuts, 5 1/2" compression spring, Unistrut corner brackets, I-bolts with a 1" hole, and other assorted hardware. Once I have built a string and shot it, I will post up some more assembly instructions. This thing took some unbelievable engineering and I went through a bunch of design changes, just to get this far. Every part you see is necessary in order to overcome some nasty problems, but it all seems to be working out fine.
> 
> ...


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

TargetShooter2 said:


> on your 1/4 20 allen head bolt going through the nut for the string post , you would be better off drilling through the rod where you will be able to get more of the threads into the nut/rod area . to each is their own but i wouldnt trust putting 200 or more pounds of tension on the bolt with only a few threads holding it in place . i have had a post cut loose at 550 lbs and it will
> get your attention quick
> .
> 
> ...


They do go all the way through. The reason I have nuts on the end is so that the bolts can be anchored into as much metal as possible. I did some trial tests with the bolt running through the nut only, and I was amazed at how much tension it could take that way. However, it is still not strong enough to hold without going all the way through.

ThanX for your input. I do appreciate any and all input. I designed this jig for others to be able to build and use as easily and cheaply as possible, so if we all chip in, we all benefit.

Automan


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Hey Automan26
As you know I'm a big fan of limiting tools and materials of projects to those resources that everyone is likely to have. I think this is a fantastic project for the folks interested in building their own strings. This Jig looks like it will still cost less than the first set of strings they would have to buy and so it is a slam dunk financially speaking. My thought here is that you have added a lot of complexity with out a lot of description about how it works. It certainly looks a lot more refined so I expect it works much better. However I'm thinking you are going to need to explain what each component does and how the jig works before the aspiring DIY'er will feel comfortable jumping in and building one. A video would be super awesome!

When I look at this thing I my self have some questions perhaps you can help with:
1) On the Spring side does the all-thread slide through the whole in the vertical brace so that when you tighten the nut on the back side it compresses the spring and in so doing stretches the string?
1b) If it does how much spring compression equates to about 300# of tension on the string.
2) the long handles on the outside ends they look too long to clear the unit-strut as you rotate them, are they there to add twists to the string or are they there to hold onto to keep the unit from rotating?
3) are you adding the twists to the string while it is on the jig? it looks like that would cause the string to be at an angle as you twist how does that affect tension as you are rotating?
4) Do you have issues with the posts trying to rotate when the string is twisted and under tension?
5) The obvious question where is the parts list 


Super fantastic thread keep up the good work!


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

b0w_bender said:


> When I look at this thing I my self have some questions perhaps you can help with:
> 1) On the Spring side does the all-thread slide through the whole in the vertical brace so that when you tighten the nut on the back side it compresses the spring and in so doing stretches the string?
> 1b) If it does how much spring compression equates to about 300# of tension on the string.
> 2) the long handles on the outside ends they look too long to clear the unit-strut as you rotate them, are they there to add twists to the string or are they there to hold onto to keep the unit from rotating?
> ...


Let me give you some answers:
1. The best way to adjust tension is to pre-load the spring using the nut behind the compression spring. You will have to put a scale on the jig to determine the compressed length for whatever tension you want. Next adjust the other head until you ever so slightly compress the spring. Now you will have your tension applied using a minimum of adjusting. I have no way to measure 300# but I do believe I have reached 200# with no problem. I truly believe that with the fibers we are using today, 200# should be more than enough, infact (see #3 below) it might be argued that strings built on this jig do not need a ton of tension as with other jigs. (This is just my opinion)
2. Those bolts are indeed too long, but the one on the spring head is simply there as a handle. The bolt on the non-sprung head should be 3" long at most. It will then just clear everything nicely.
3. The string is at an angle as it is being twisted, but when I built a 24" test string it was less of a problem than I thought it would be. With a longer string there should be less of a problem. As I watched the string as it was being twisted I began to get the the idea that this may be a better way to add twists to the string. The offset of the posts tends to wrap the bundles around each other instead of twisting them. This MIGHT allow the strands to lay down better as the twists are being added. (Maybe)
4. The post on the non-sprung head can be locked in place by tighening the nuts together until they lock down against the corner brackets and the length of black pipe. The handle on the sprung head can be used if you find that the string is twisting as it is being served.
5. Parts list: I have a parts list and some basic instructions on how to properly set up the jig. I will email the document to anyone who sends an email to [email protected] Subject-Jig Parts

I will post up a parts list in another post.

Automan


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

Here goes:

*BEFORE YOU BEGIN*—All the parts on this jig have an important purpose. I had to work through a number of difficult problems that are not readily apparent just from looking at the finished product. If you leave anything off, you will run into a problem I worked hard to avoid.

Note--You will notice that the handle on the spring head is at a different angle from the other bolts. All this means is that I screwed up and had to drill and tap another hole. Make sure you do it right when you drill and tap yours.

Unistrut and Superstrut parts are nearly identical. I have used parts from both manufacturers simply because I had to use what my supplier had on hand. Mix and match parts as you wish, they will go together just fine.

10’section of 1 5/8” Superstrut channel

4 Superstrut/Unistrut corner brackets—3 ½” X 4”

4 Superstrut/Unistrut spring nuts

6” X 5/8” All-thread—Cut to make 2, 6” sections (7” sections might be a bit better, but 6” is what I used.)

Compression spring—I used a 5 ¾” X 1” spring but I am less than happy. The long spring tends to bulge a bit more than I like when tensioned down. If you can find something shorter with good tension I would recommend using that. You may have to make some minor design alterations if you use a shorter spring.

6, 5/8” nuts—(3 for each section of All-Thread)

6 coarse thread, 1” X ½” bolts and 2 nuts

3/8” X 5” eye bolts with at least a 1” ID

4, 3/8” bolts and washers

2 ½” section of 5/8” I.D. pipe that will fit over the 5/8” All-Thread. (There is a seem inside the pipe that will need to be ground away before it will fit over the All-Thread.

2, 1/4X20 X 3” allen head cap screws

2, 1/4X20 X 2” allen head cap screws

5, washers used for 9/16” bolts. (These washers fit nicely over the 5/8” All-thread. I think the 5/8” washers fit too loosely.)


ASSEMBLY:	
If you look at the pics above you can figure out most of the assembly, but there are a few things you will need to know:


1.	Adjust the height of the eye bolts so that they keep the All-thread level when tension is applied to the jig posts. Due to the fact that the tension is not centered along the axis of the All-thread, the posts want to tilt down when under tension. This causes a severe binding problem that you will want to avoid.
2.	Drill a hole through the bolts and All-thread, and then tap them to fit the bolts. This is more difficult than first appears, so if you do not have confidence in your abilities, a machine shop can the task very cheaply. These holes need to be dead center and squared-up. 
3.	Drill and tap another hole at the opposite end of each 6” section of All-thread
4.	The corner brackets have 9/16” holes, so you will have to enlarge them so the 5/8” All-thread will fit. A little too loose is better than a little too snug.


*Tensioning the String*
There are two methods which can be used to put tension on the string. First, you can pretention the tension spring and use the adjustments on the opposite head and tighten until the compression spring begins to move slightly. As soon as the stop bolt on the spring head movs slightly, the pre-tensioned spring is pulling on the string. I like this method because it requires much less adjusting and movement of the jig parts.

The second method simply involves adjusting the non-spring jig head to do all the pulling and compressing of the compression spring. This might mean that you have to make as much as ¾” to 1” of adjustment to the jig.

I feel that the less movement you need, the better off you will be in the end.

Also, keep things well lubed up. This is an inexpensive starter jig and is thus not the same quality as something you will pay $300+ to purchase. At times things may bind a bit and need a small tap here and there. It’s no big deal, but it is a small price to pay for a jig that costs as little as this one and can build the quality of string that this jig can build. 

Automan


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

I just built a 50" string for an Alpine youth bow and all I can say is that some little kid is going to get one heck of a string. The jig threads do need to be well lubricated. It gets a bit sticky and binds a bit here and there, but with lubrication all should go smoother. I do all my work in a carpeted bedroom and if one drop of oil hits the carpet, I am a dead man, so my threads are and will remain dry.

The compression spring I used is only good for about 150#, but I tightened the jig until I put the spring into coil bind and kept cranking until I could pluck it and get a nice guitar-like pitch. There is enough tension there for stretching purposes. With the spring in coil bind, there was no problem at all with the string twisting while serving. The all-thread is flexing slightly, but holding nicely.

At this point I think we have a winner. Time will tell.

Automan


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

*El-Cheap-O DeluX upgrade*

If i was going to build this jig from scratch again, I would use 7" sections of all-thread instead of the 6" ones. The extra adjustment room would be nice. Also, under the eye bolt on the non-sprung head is a 2 1/4" length of pipe. It is more important than it appears. I would cut that pipe to 1 3/4" and place the other 1/2" piece of pipe on the other side of the corner brackets. Too hard to explain why--Your jig will last longer.

A heavier compression spring would also be a good idea, but length and diameter are an issue.

Automan


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

I made some minor tweaks and lubed the threads and I believe this thing is ready for building. I built a test string and this little jig performed as smooth as butter. If anyone is thinking about building the El-Cheap-O Delux, PM me your email address and I will send you an updated parts list, photos, assembly hints, and operational instructions.

To be honest at this point--Sorry high-buck jig makers, I think the El-Cheapo-DeluX builds a string that is at least as good as yours and I believe maybe even a little better--Honestly!!!!

Automan


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## z7xlw (Sep 14, 2011)

Looks like imma have to think bout another project. Haha


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## wsbark01 (Feb 26, 2009)

automan26 said:


> I made some minor tweaks and lubed the threads and I believe this thing is ready for building. I built a test string and this little jig performed as smooth as butter. If anyone is thinking about building the El-Cheap-O Delux, PM me your email address and I will send you an updated parts list, photos, assembly hints, and operational instructions.
> 
> To be honest at this point--Sorry high-buck jig makers, I think the El-Cheapo-DeluX builds a string that is at least as good as yours and I believe maybe even a little better--Honestly!!!!
> 
> Automan


Automan if that updated information is different then what you sent me 2 days ago let me know! 

Also, as I was pricing some parts today I was told by a worker at a local hardware store to try a Grade 8 1/4x20 hex bolt for the jig post as it may be stronger then a Allen head, just grind down or cut off the head????? Idk but I guess if I can find a Grade 8 allen head then it would work even better!


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

wsbark01 said:


> Automan if that updated information is different then what you sent me 2 days ago let me know!
> 
> Also, as I was pricing some parts today I was told by a worker at a local hardware store to try a Grade 8 1/4x20 hex bolt for the jig post as it may be stronger then a Allen head, just grind down or cut off the head????? Idk but I guess if I can find a Grade 8 allen head then it would work even better!


I think grade 8 bolts would be a good idea, but I have put some nasty tension on the jig to the point that when I showed it to my wife she backed away and thought it was going to explode. But, if you go with the grade 8, you will be in very great shape indeed.

Automan


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## Onytay (Aug 1, 2012)

I've been contemplating building my own strings and this jig is really making me think about it a little harder, thank you for taking the time to put this all together!


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## wsbark01 (Feb 26, 2009)

automan26 said:


> I think grade 8 bolts would be a good idea, but I have put some nasty tension on the jig to the point that when I showed it to my wife she backed away and thought it was going to explode. But, if you go with the grade 8, you will be in very great shape indeed.
> 
> Automan


Got another question????

What size of a post be to big for making strings? Like in this one you are using 1/4" so is say 1/2" post to big??? What are the smallest end loops that any bow may use? I have another idea that would make this jig even more Bad Arse and still cost about the same, it all just depends on the answer to this question!


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

wsbark01 said:


> Got another question????
> 
> What size of a post be to big for making strings? Like in this one you are using 1/4" so is say 1/2" post to big??? What are the smallest end loops that any bow may use? I have another idea that would make this jig even more Bad Arse and still cost about the same, it all just depends on the answer to this question!


The reason I am using 1/4" posts is because the industry standard for measuring string length is 1/4" posts @ 100#. I have used posts as big as 3/8" and it worked fine. 1/2" posts would be too much. I am building and stretching a string at this very moment and my loops are 3/8". I think that is about as small as I would ever go. The anchors on my Airborne cams are on the smaller side and the 3/8" loop is just right. Any smaller and I would be in trouble.

If you can improve on this design I am all for it. Let's get a good, inexpensive tool in the hands of guys who want to get started and let the have at it.

Automan


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

If there is anyone who has asked for plans for this jig and have not received them, I apologize. I have had several that I sent out that did not get through. If you didn't get yours from me, email me at [email protected] and I will send you what you need.

Automan


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## Ancient Archer (Sep 25, 2008)

automan26 said:


> ......................... like Oprah on a baked ham...............
> Automan


WOW! I like that!


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## straddleridge (Apr 28, 2010)

*suggested improvements*

I built my string jig almost exactly like yours a couple of years ago. The problems that made me modify it were that just the unistrut brackets seemed a little weak and the string was only a couple of inches above the unistrut and I had trouble with serving with my bieter winder.

This is picture of what I did to solve those problems.









I added a couple of pieces of 2" X 3/8" flat steel stock. Put a piece about 7 - 8" long between the unistrut l-brackets to make it higher and another piece on the bottom which attaches to the unistrut.

My spring is inside the piece of 1" black pipe attached to a cut black pipe floor flange. If you look closely you can see the tension force calibration marks on the pipe next to a slot cut in it so you can see the spring. It is also high enough so I made a simple handle to put tension on the thing.

The rod through the spring is a piece of 1/2" steel rod. I used a die to put several inches of 1/2 X 13 thread to apply the tension. Used a 1/4" grade 8 bolt as a pin to wrap the thread. I just rounded the hex.


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

That is sweeeeet!!!!! Good job  From the pic it looks like you have a great project for those who have a slight bit of mechanical aptitude. I see some things in your jig that I might put into mine.


Just before opening this thread again today, I finished building a set of strings and cables for my Airborne. I'll post a pic when I have them installed.


You did a great job on that jig--You should be proud.

Automan


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

Had to put this at the top again. It's a GREAT thread!


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

Since I first designed the El-Cheap-O DeluX I have built a bunch of strings and I am amazed at the quality of the strings this cheap jig puts out. I can confidently state that this jig builds a string that has as much quality as can be built into any string by anybody. You can start building some of the best strings around quickly and cheaply. For the past couple weeks I have been building a bunch of strings and with every string I come away amazed by the quality of what I am cranking out. 

Automan


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## rcsd6815 (Feb 26, 2010)

Nice thread. I'm saving this one for later!


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## retrieverfishin (Oct 18, 2010)

tagging for later!


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

I hate the stretcher I built but it does work, will build something better when work slows a bit. May build something that can be used for layout and stretching with out switching ends like I do now.


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## 67raiders (Jan 23, 2011)

Ttt


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## redyak3 (Nov 5, 2011)

Thanks!!!! This'll be my next project. I've been wanting to get into string building and this looks like just what I need to get my feet wet.


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## cowboyup_again (Aug 13, 2009)

Tag for string stretcher and instructions.


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## Anynamewilldo (Jan 3, 2008)

Great thread. Going to try to read it all this week. Been wanting to make my own for me and family/friends. Bought a jig and 2 dvd including grivs 2 yrs ago and this thread wants me to get back to making one. Just need to make the tensioner. Have more general questions if someone can pm about best string,serving material and such to get started. I have had a string made out of 452 trophy and like it but the first sting I make to go on a bow will probably go on a friends and hes got a quest primal. Its hard on the cables and I heard 8190 might be better. Have questions like that and amount of strands to start with ,with said string used if anyone doesnt mind pm me and letting me pick their brain for the first one.


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## redyak3 (Nov 5, 2011)

I've drilled and tapped for the posts and such, getting ready to assemble. What is the "best" serving winder to use with this jig "as - is" ?
If I want to use a Beiter serving winder, will I have to elevate the rods as well ? This is my first attempt at string building, I'm all ears....


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

redyak3 said:


> I've drilled and tapped for the posts and such, getting ready to assemble. What is the "best" serving winder to use with this jig "as - is" ?
> If I want to use a Beiter serving winder, will I have to elevate the rods as well ? This is my first attempt at string building, I'm all ears....


I think the Beiter winder may be just a tad tall. I have been using the Spigarelli (sp) serving tool and it works great. It has a good tension knob and the price is great for the quality of the tool.

Automan


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## redyak3 (Nov 5, 2011)

automan26 said:


> I think the Beiter winder may be just a tad tall. I have been using the Spigarelli (sp) serving tool and it works great. It has a good tension knob and the price is great for the quality of the tool.
> 
> Automan


Thanks Automan !!! Gonna get Griv's DVD as well from Lancaster's


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## redyak3 (Nov 5, 2011)

Thanks again Automan for sharing your knowledge!
Really fun project, couldn't find the smaller washers but that'll be an easy switch when I do. Ready to get the unistrut and see if I can actually make something...:darkbeer:


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

redyak3 said:


> Thanks again Automan for sharing your knowledge!
> Really fun project, couldn't find the smaller washers but that'll be an easy switch when I do. Ready to get the unistrut and see if I can actually make something...:darkbeer:


Dude, that looks awesome!! There may be a small issue with the non-sprung head, but it is easily corrected. You may find that there is not enough All-thread behind the jig post on the non-sprung head to give you enough travel to bottom out the spring when stretching the string. If you find this to be the case, you can remove the short collar behind the nut to gain more travel. That collar is in place because the threads, where they go through the corner brackets during tensioning, tend to get a bit knocked around. The purpose of the collar is to keep these boogered threads from interacting with the nut. It is not a big problem at all and if you keep the threads greased well, you should be fine. Also, you might simply try removing the three washers on the non-sprung head. That might be just enough to do the trick. Your adjustment capability at this point looks like it might be just enough, but if not, the fix should be very easy. (In fact, the more I look at it, removing the washers should be all you need to gain that little extra bit of travel.

You did an outstanding job and are well on your way to becoming a top-notch string builder in a very short time. It's almost spooky how much your jig looks like mine. Great Job. Keep us posted on how it works out for you.

Automan


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## Kaizoku (Dec 23, 2011)

Automan, I sent you an email.


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## Mordekyle (Aug 8, 2011)

El-Cheapo post upgrade:

Thanks to Automan, DIY section, and everyone who posts instructions, advice, and videos about making strings, I have now been inducted into the club.

I did an upgrade to the posts, using only a drill press, a bench grinder, and hand tools.

First, I got some 8" x 1 1/4 6061 aluminum off of EBay. (About $20 shipped)


Then I drilled and tapped the bottom to 3/8. Added a 1 1/2" bolt and 2 washers and the superstrut goodie sans spring.


Drilled/tapped the top to 5/16". Sank a 2 1/2" bolt to the end of the threads. Used the bench grinder to form the bolt head into a mushroom head. Clear tubing finished it.

These things are plenty solid, give much room to work, and are easily and firmly tightened by hand. One downside is the adjustments are not fine. It takes a little wiggling and jiggling, but once positioned, they are bomb proof.


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## Mordekyle (Aug 8, 2011)




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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

Inexpensive and easy to build is always a good way to go. Great idea.

Automan


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## Mordekyle (Aug 8, 2011)

I use the tag end method and bury one end in the bundle like NP Archery does in his how to thread. 

I got tired of constantly whipping out the tape, finding the center of the post, serving a couple wraps, and repeating, so I made a simple gauge from a paper clip.







I serve the tag that is to be buried into the red section marked on the paper clip. The tag that is to wrap around goes to the cut end of the paper clip.







15 wraps around both, a back serve with 10 wraps, and The result is an easily repeatable loop without constantly measuring.


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## jam105 (Mar 19, 2013)

Tagging for string builder


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## firstshoot (Mar 4, 2008)

tag for reference


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## mibowhunter2094 (Sep 8, 2008)

Next project!


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## strummer (Jul 25, 2004)

nice


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## fgignac (Aug 21, 2014)

I really like this design! I am definitely going to be making something like this in the not too distant future. The main thing holding me back is lack of space. I have been trying to figure out a way to make this thing so that I can disassemble it for storage but I'm afraid that if I cut the strut it will lack integrity once reassembled and have too much flex. But having never used a system like this I don't know if that is really an issue.

Anyone have any thoughts?


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## Themassarcher (May 9, 2013)

tagging


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## archern00b (Aug 21, 2014)

really great thread thank you, just one question. what does it take to get a sticky around here? c(=


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## automan26 (Oct 21, 2002)

Wow, it has been a long time since I first started this thread, and a lot has happened since then. The El-Cheap-O became the El-Cheap-O Delux and that jig evolved into the El-cheap-O Delux 2.0.

Read post 40 on this thread and you will run across someone named Huntinsker who thought he might like to get into string building. Well, he is an example of just how far one can go with this simple design. Read through his thread in the link below and you will see the possibilities that are open to everyone.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2062893

Notice that the spring in the El-Cheap-O DeluX has been replaced with a small block Chevy valve spring, the all-thread has been replaced with a 5/8" X 6" carriage bolt and the Allen head bolts are now roll pins.

If you want to take your string building to a whole new level, please spend time reading through Huntinsker's thread in the link above; if you have any questions this thread will probably answer them as well as show you how to build some killer threads of a quality that can stand shoulder-to-shoulder with ANYTHING built professionally today.

Automan


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## archern00b (Aug 21, 2014)

my old reflex needs a new string and cable 93" and 33". will I need more than a 1/4lb. spool? also what type of string would be a good El-cheap-O string?


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

archern00b said:


> my old reflex needs a new string and cable 93" and 33". will I need more than a 1/4lb. spool? also what type of string would be a good El-cheap-O string?


A 1/8# spool will do several sets for that bow. A good all around material is 452x. It's stable and not too difficult to build with. It's kind of the "standard" that string builders compare a material to. I personally think that Brownell Fury may be better than 452x but 452x has been proven for a long time now. Neither are the cheapest materials but both are good to learn with and make a great string if you do your job.


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## adventurejack (Oct 30, 2006)

saved


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