# Spigarelli Revolution target - bow setup tips experiences etc



## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Hi everyone, 


My first own bow is on its way home. A Spigarelli Revolution 2019 light version 1200gr with some basic woodcore and fibreglass limbs in 22lbs at 70" to suit my 31" draw and resulting actual draw weight. Shibuya button, and arrows to match this overall setup from an experienced shop owner. 
A competition archer has sold me her one year old Shibuya Dual Click for a nice price to go with so well used but well taken care of and in very good condition. 



I am looking for experiences tips guides photos etc. from fellow Revolution owners out there and interested to hear how you outfitted and cared for yours over time and why and will share my own in this thread in the time to come ^^


A fellow parent at my son's school shared with me his passion and urged me to join the local club where I was well received in an amiable and varied group of people and I look forward to every opportunity I have at the range. Wish I took this decision earlier in life ^^
I delved into my options at this stage and my main interests lie with target but also I would like to barebow and this riser seems well suited to be applied in both areas with the proper outfitting.


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## ceratops (May 17, 2017)

I don't have a lot of experience with the riser, but will try to get the ball rolling. I have a Revolution I bought used here on AT. Have it set up for barebow at the moment with 28# limbs. I got the Revo-specific BB weight (from Alt Services), which blends in visually in an interesting way. Should say, I've read some pretty lukewarm (or worse) reviews of that weight - people who've used the riser more extensively seem to go toward more conventional BB weights. Seems fine to me so far, but I honestly haven't spent a lot of time with the riser yet... 

I'm pretty sure Jim C (long time poster here) has a family member who used a Revolution extensively for indoor target - hopefully he will chime in on your thread.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Hello Ceratops ^^

I am guessing this is not your only bow ; do you own then more traditional stiff risers and how would you compare your feel during the shot process compared to those? 
One of the reasons I chose this riser, besides its design from an enginerding standpoint tickling me, is finding quite a few remarks from injured archers who were able to shoot with this riser more comfortably. Most positive comments I found are from barebow users though.
I myself have several broken vertebrae and other life trophees which made me look for something smooth on my joints. I did see some slow motion captures of this riser with higher poundage limbs and saw a fair degree of flexing in the riser after release which gave me pause for thought - possibly it being not so forgiving at that moment of release with my beginner form but if this does prove to be an issue at all well one more thing to enjoy learning to deal with.

I am indeed very much a beginner but it made me feel like a 12 yo boy getting praise at school lol the remarks some fellow club members and the club president when I managed to do tight groupings on my third evening pretty consistently over hours of shooting all in the same quadrant of the target with the undersized club training bow.
Next evening at the range I get to dial in the sight the instructor said. 

Well that and setting up the Revolution =]


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## ceratops (May 17, 2017)

I like 'enginerding' . One of my reasons for buying one also - it just looks cool and different. The person I bought it from used it specifically because he found it gentler (more comfortable) to use while recuperating from an injury or medical issue. I don't have that situation at the moment, but have in the past (recuperating from a car crash, in my case, which led to all sorts of aches and pains returning to archery). So, I guess I bought it partly for that reason also - sort of like money in the bank for future infirmity. Except, of course, for the fact that acquisition of archery equipment literally takes money out of the bank, haha.

I haven't shot it enough to compare objectively, but it does feel smooth and comfortable. Your query reminds me that I should give the Revolution a longer trial... I hadn't worked out yet what, if anything, to do about the grip. Previous owner had added putty, which wasn't comfortable to me, so I removed it. However, the factory laminated wood grip wasn't quite comfortable either (to me), so I have to revisit that issue.

Good luck with your new bow - sounds like you're having fun!


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

The grip yes - I expect some issues there also possibly.. Just now returning the Fivics Saker 1 fingertab Large for an XLarge and having read some comments here and elsewhere on the Revolution's standard factory grip that some with larger hands found it a little uncomfortable overall and biting in the web of their thumb to hand. 
Also when I finally hit my 20 posts and got to peep at the classifieds section here I noticed a few sold with alternate grips from Jager - and the same elsewhere on the web.. I am a little competent with wood and epoxy and such if it proves a problem I may just tinker myself but ready to go options wise the Spigarelli factory makes both high and low grips for the Revolution - ordering one costs about 50€ over here. Think Jager charges about the same in u$ for their alternates..


And thank you - yes indeed I am having fun! The most pain experienced so far with regards to archery was hitting that payment button lol..
That and just now getting a message the delivery has been delayed XD

Enjoy your sessions!


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Well one issue with the grip right out of the box - they sent me one with a plastic grip ukey:
hm and a big fat scratch by the limb pocket..sigh


But just holding it - the balance is great =]


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Well the grip as it turns out ís actually wood! The coolness of it having come from the delivery van out and about in December weather 
and its slowness in warming to my hand because of that and the absolutely fláwless finish on it had me fooled.
This greyish black and under some light slightly greenish hued one is not very pleasing to my eye though. Reminds me of the marbling and hue of a bowling ball.
But also it reminds me of some instances I hear my signifant other comment 'what ís that thing she's wearing!' while serious world issues are being conveyed by a news presenter lol.. I can't wait to give this thing a go!









But not that clear naturally finished grip that I ordered or what was advertised so awaiting their response and hope it will work out ^^
That little bit of natural looking material on such an otherwise téchnical design - I really do like that..


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

heh this is turning into a blog of sorts lol.. But I figure sharing is of interest to those perhaps considoring purchasing this riser..


Okay so the dealer has been forthcoming; They admitted to using óld promotional photographs from the importer on their site showing the natural finish wooden grip and told me for the past year the Revolutions have come from the factory with updated grips; denser wood and this greenish/greyish finish. The denser part is obvious to me eying the grain on photographs of the old one vs this one. 
He mentioned the old ones came totally únfinished and apperently many users did not take the time to treat theirs with at least some linseed oil to prevent weathering and the less dense wood then set things up for easy damage to occur so Spigarelli probably tired of returns and slapped this on instead. The quality of the finish like I mentioned earlier is like glass - very homogenous and blemish free.

They will do their best to find me an unfinished grip but do not know how likely it is.
I hope it is likely or I will need to find myself some good handle material and the time to make my own as stripping this one likely wouldn't do; I know the stain will likely be deep in that grain and the only way to get rid of it is to strip off the wood along with it and then it won't be as comfortable as it is now. If one does turn up and its not the new denser one coming bare from the factory but the old one I will apply a layer of glass and epoxy ( the fibreglass will be pretty invisible and the result clear ) - that should sort any weakness and weathering. Or perhaps just some regular care with linseed oil as this I find feels the most comfortable in my hands tools wise.
One could try sanding back the greenish one a little and using woodbleach but in the past that has proven hit and miss results wise here with other projects.
It is comfortable I must say. Perhaps the mounting is a little askew - alignment to my eye appears a little lower on the left than the right. It is affixed with just one hex bolt on the right side of the handle.
It does fit my hand and grip well enough. A líttle bite in the webbing of my thumb nearer my index finger. 

As for the scratches on the aluminium - sadly this black/'white' ( bare aluminium ) / black version is out of stock, the remaining stock appears to be the french flag, german flag and red. The new color scheme is yet to arrive and all other colors are special order.
And this is the situation across Europe as stocks are usually low.

I shall see how this works out but a little more patience is required. I will hold off making some good photographs till this whole thing has resolved somehow and then post them here for those who want to see more of this riser. If anyone wants photos now just let me know.

Got to say knowing the current holiday madness and how busy they must be I appreciate my dealer's cool so far and the replies have all been calm and expansive and timely.



As for my Shibuya Double Click sight - well the holiday season mail madness struck ; track and trace information shows it has been delivered but no sight in sight here.. 

Woooo interesting times XD


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## ceratops (May 17, 2017)

If we weren't on different continents, I'd swap grips in a heartbeat, lol. Good to know that the raw wood handle would like some finish/preservative put on it. I sort of doubt Spig had that in any written instruction to original owners of the riser; written documentation or manuals don't seem to be their thing, in general.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Yes I would take care of that asap. Degrease it well with some ammonia substitute degreaser from any brand. Gloves and an old rough cotton rag and put that stuff on pure on the rag and rub it down then dry it off and let sit for a bit then do it again.. 
Wait a day or more for it to be completely dry then some boiled linseed oil applied with a lint free rag - let it sit for 20mins max and use a lint free dry rag to wipe the excess all off then 1 day to cure. Take care with those rags ; linseed oil penetrates into the wood and an oxidizing process hardens it but those rags are very airy and when balled up the oxidation is accellerated and those rags can actually start smoking.. When done with em wet them and lay them out flat outside someplace and in a day or so you can put them in the trash. 

Raw linseed you could dúnk the grip into and let sit overnight then take it out and wipe off and let cure for a week or so before use. Raw linseed will penetrate múch deeper but it cures much slower. 

Upkeep after either method is quick and easy - maybe once or twice a year 10 mins of work.
And the result is a handle that feels like part of your hand and over the years the lustre will be gorgeous.


Or yes we could exchange some information and swap =} but I am waiting for word on a scratch free riser first ^^


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

ceratops said:


> Good to know that the raw wood handle would like some finish/preservative put on it. I sort of doubt Spig had that in any written instruction to original owners of the riser; written documentation or manuals don't seem to be their thing, in general.


Lol yeah I've read that complaint all over the web..
Here's the manual I received for my 2018-2019 model:

























Limit to number of pics per post - next half in the next post.

They've gone for a one manual for all it seems in this revision. I also have an older PDF here of the Revolution only manual in Italian with broken english translations added.. Can be found here: https://www.alternativess.com/images/PDF/spigrevolution.pdf

On the grips - I can't imagine they were entírely bare wood - but that is how my dealer described them yes. Perhaps they used matte spray on lacquer finish - matte does not seal very well but it would appear bare. Wears quicker than gloss though. So with wear and sweaty hands, some rain… Things swell and contract and cracks appear. 

A light sanding with some fine black carbon sanding paper before you do anything with it might be a tell - if the color is white coming off at first there is an old coating on there.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

The rest of it ^^

Interesting to note - they have gone from 2 to 5 to now 10 years warranty on their risers!


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## ceratops (May 17, 2017)

Thanks for posting the manual - more content than I expected, actually. My negative comments about Spig documentation come from trying to find info on the ZT-rest (I think the only thing that turned up was a diagram with part numbers, not even specifying sizes for the multiple little deciduous bolts that hold parts together - frustrating when you inevitably have to search for replacements for the deciduous mini-bolts!). Also, when I bought the Revo barebow weight, I don't think there was any documentation (pretty straightforward, but a typical manufacturer would have included a little picture of where to put the bolts).

I should post a picture of the wood grip on mine. It's a bit dirty from previous use and from the putty I removed. It's possible there's some sort of matte finish soaked in; but it doesn't look like it. Also, the fact that it's made of laminated layers, combined with the curvatures in the shape, make it prone to little chips breaking out up near the shelf area.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Hmm well grime that doesn't come off with a wipe down probably means the grime is ín there yeah.. 

If you have chips already might want to go the epoxy and some fibreglass route instead of the linseed after doing something about the shape of it if needed. 
Mix some woodsandings and epoxy to fill the chips in. Would end up looking decent enough and rock solid


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## josh_gml (Jun 21, 2019)

As the other already mentioned, the information density varies a lot form manufacturer to manufacturer. You may go to the Spigarelli website and look for some technical drawing or such but you just cant find them. Its a running theme for some italian bow companies and its sad for the customer and maybe even more for the dealers. 

I mean the Revolution you got there is the updated 2019 varient of the older Revolution, hence you got the different grip on there. But you just dont find any infformation on the social media channels nor the website about this variant. 

I really wanna like the italian bow brands but the make it so hard. Thankfully we got Gillo that does things better.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Yes Josh - it is almost painful to see this isnt it. Almost get the urge to offer my services lol.. 
But there is a steady rise - the Spigarelli FB page is a bit more active. And the manual I have for the 2018/2019 model albeit more generic is much better put together in proper English. Even some humor in there. To be fair - the outdated promotional photographs I got to see ordering mine were from a dealer who had not updated his information.. Eying the Spigarelli website you see what is current - but it is very sparse. The FB page has more info than the site really.
And I have read their service is very good. People getting replacements promptly etc. They are véry slow in responses though.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Yay.. My new and much more 'shiny' Spigarelli Revolution is on its way. b/w/b version wás out of stock and noted to stay that way but luck had it they had access to half a dozen and told the importer to send them the best looking one of the batch.
Also ordered a set of slightly lighter limbs than I had initially to help grow into things better hopefully keeping my out of warranty vertebrae from complaining and a bowstand which I forgot to order the first time round.

Sadly an unfinished original revolution grip to tinker with is beyond the grasp of my dealer so am going to dig out my woodcarving tools out of the garage and annoy my wife with shavings by the couch. My dealer mentioned he made his own from zebra wood years ago and that wóuld look and feel very good I think ^^



Must say am well pleased with my dealer and really should give them a mention here I feel - if that is allowed?


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

..just got an answer from an admin on that last one so here it is

Any Dutch archers out there - beginners with too many questions like me especially ^^ - or even those travelling through the Netherlands 
go check out https://www.europearchery.com
Patient, helpful - even in thís busy month - quick to respond and thoughtful in their replies.

They also have a smallscale camping attached with an archery range, workshops and activities and from what I heard of fellow club members 
who have been there it was much fun and an amiable place - even access to their club building with indoor range etc for guests https://www.archeryfarm.nl/
and ofcourse the attached shop to get tempted by their well stocked inventory..

The surrounding area is pretty nice as well: https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=landgoed+de+utrecht&FORM=HDRSC2


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

http://www.steghe.it/Spigarelli_Revolution-a_case_study.pdf
Talk of enginerding.. An interesting find out there. 
Feeding the Italian text into translate and myself lacking the insight into tuning making sense of it is more miss than hit here though

If someone can make sense of this and explain the methods and results in this study please do share here ^^


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

144 score at my first club competition small yay lol I was told thats not too bad for I think the 5th or 6th evening out. 
I hope they weren't just being nice ^^

Funny thing though - I kept shooting with one eye closed because I've been told to do this. Books and such all say keep both open. 
So stubborn me I tried to do both eyes open every other round but just ended up doing wide groups because hey yay two targets instead of one lol.. 

But when the range was quiet after the competion I kept asking the occasional fellow shooter going over the competition targets one more time if they shot with one eye closed or kept both open everyone said close one eye! if you open both your shots will go nowhere!
So stubborn me I started doing round after round both eyes open anyway and pretty quickly my groupings went tight and touching!

Think I would like a larger sightpins though and a smaller dot. Just a 'tad' too blurry dot for me needing glasses for both distance and reading.
*goes to check if there are such for OR*


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## ceratops (May 17, 2017)

Some views of the Revo wood grip, after some use and wear and tear. I think it has acquired a finish of sorts, just from extensive handling, lol. In this photo you can also barely see the additional barebow weight that I added (it's basically an additional shorter lamination).








Here you can make out a small chip (the arrow rest wire is sort of pointing at it). Looks almost inevitable with that very narrow flared ledge at the top of the grip! The chip is small and not at all uncomfortable to the hand, so I haven't had much motivation to fix it.


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## ceratops (May 17, 2017)

Very odd that everyone at your range recommended shooting with one eye closed. That's hardly the majority opinion, although some people clearly prefer it.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

One eye vs two. If you are cross eye dominate, (stronger eye is left but you shoot right handed) then you need to close one eye or train yourself to use your non dominate eye. It’s possible but takes perseverance and ongoing training. 

Or you switch to shooting your less dominate hand to not have to close one eye (preferred if you are looking to get to the elite levels)

If you are border line dominate on one eye vs the other, sometimes it’s hard to shoot with both eyes open so again close one eye.

OR, as some of the archers do, shoot with an eye patch or “flip down blinder”. Another trick is put some “frosted scotch tape” on your glasses if you wear them. This will force your mind to use the non-dominate eye because it see’s a clearer image..

The thought is, you want your facial muscles to be relaxed. To keep all the muscles tensed to the exact same tension all the time is very hard to do and changing the tension in any muscles will change your shot some.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

That grip looks good and fine the way it is Cera even with the chip ^^ sigh it looks great really - much better than the current stained ones.
If it was mine I might have applied some fibre and epoxy early on eying those laminations and that thin ledge but *shrugs* it looks fine still 
and linseed feels so much nicer. Scotchbrite fine, degreaser and a rag , linseed and spend a thursday evening evening smelling that cure 
and shoot it on friday night...

Already dug into my garage which looks a little like this







Both me in the act of searching and the state it is in =S
Did find a few blocks of hardwood though - and a block of very finely laminated bamboo too but I'd need a cnc lathe to shape lol 
Hard as a coffin nail that stuff. Would not need a finish at all though. 
Now if only I remembered where I put my carving knives. I put them someplace where I could grab them easy last time.....


Yes dchan there is someone at my club who is cross dominant - wears an eyepatch for now.. The person I purchased my shibuya dual click from is also cross dominant or borderline so I think and shoots one eye closed at a good level. 
I am very clearly right eye dominant but when my attention wavers sometimes I cross focus - used to do camera work and I would view through the eyepiece and view my surroundings at once switching my mind focus to one or the other when needed or both - and there is the rub for me. Distracted sometimes I do that and two sights two targets lol Doesnt help my vision has gone north and south somewhat with the years but I do find with two eyes open it just works better. More consistent.

That evening before last at the range at the end of the evening I did two eyes open - one fellow shooter remarked you're not going to hit nothing that way lol..
One group wide, second wide - third they were all touching. I said hey look two eyes open - she eyed the arrows and stomped off to get her friend. Soon there were a few folks at the target eyeing what I'd shot and looking at me funny lol. I told them yeah well I was told by so and so in the beginning one eye closed so I kept doing that but it never felt right- then saw the guy over my shoulder and he smirked at me =} 
Well two eyes open for you it is then he said


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Interesting dchan - reading your comment again on the eyes and facial muscles and tension.. Yes I can feel doing that sitting here imagining myself being my usual tense self at the start of an evening's shoot working my upper cheek muscle to squeeze it shut....

Also read that one eye closed the other pupil responds as well opening wider a little which makes focus in that open eye soften. Then when you open both your eyes again the one eye is wetter and focus wavers and this makes both eyes strained.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

That chipped upper limb







Range tech slip of the fingers and it hit the bow holder's roller's retaining bolt..
No fibre damage I can tell. Asked the dealer how to care for it - clear laqcuer they came back with but as to which kind acrylic or alkyd they did not know. 
Don't want to impact the resin of the fibreglass layer in any way - thinking maybe just using gelcoat since I know that stuff is made for use on resin..
Easy to use and fill something deep as this with too - and buff so nothing can be seen of it.
Tempting to then go do something about all the flashy decals stuck on and lacquered over on these limbs too while I am at it..

and why are my horizontally taken photos posted vertically grr


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

Yup. That is the theory for frosted tape. Or blinder vs patch. Use what works for you. Most recreational archers probably will do fine with shutting one eye. Especially since long gone are the days of the Grand FITA, Double 900, or 1500 rounds.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Well that was a nice afternoon spent here. Discovered through another club member there was an actual archery store not 20 mins from our home..
He's run it for 20 years as a hobby, and for the past year full time since he quit his day job at age 72.
I'd never noticed it because it is tucked round the corner of a DMC DeLorean repairshop that never failed to draw my attention driving by.


The man spent and hour and a half with me and my bow. Set the limb alignment. Set the correct tiller. Put on a ff string. Made some nockingpoints from floss and touched up with some glue. Talked a lot about things. Gave me valuable form tips. I spent some time shooting my spig barebow in the store. I feared for his furniture and inventory lol but managed to hit the blue and red.
Charged me for the string....


Drove home with a big grin on my face. 





Forgot to measure fresh out of the box but after shooting it measured around 169.5cm I remember correctly - thats 65.15". And thís string's serving fit my arrow nocks just perfectly. Fresh it came to 8.5 brace. Shot it for a while, came back and its now at 8.25. 
Told me don't mess with things for now - maybe twist it a few times to get it back up to 8.5. 
To just enjoy my bow and when spring comes around and I get to go out onto the field possibly by then doing some heavier limbs only then start tweaking the braceheight more. Said I should not bother with the lighter limbs I got I am doing just fine with the pair I had on.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

..back from the club - just put in an hour or so because my wife has too many evening shifts this week to spend much time there but that brace height has to go up a ways more but least with this string length that will be doable. Some comments on how close it was getting to my arm - no slaps but pretty close ^^ 
8.5 seemed low to me eyeing the Spig manual minimum 9 but who am I to correct someone with half a lifetime of shooting..

?


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## nex667 (Sep 1, 2018)

No offense to the shop keeper but even experienced archers can make mistakes. I would stick with manufacturers recommendations.

On the other hand Hoyt for example didn't change brace height recommendations when moving the pivot point of the grip forward I read. I'm not that long an Archer myself.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Hi Nex 

New here too - but notice among long time archers some things get them 'started' among themselves lol..
The man from the other club mentioned a more open stance was probably something I could try - but also emphasized bending my arm a lot more than felt 'right' tbh - I felt my arm muscles and tendons with every shot. Straight arm rotated wrist align the load into my shoulders is what I have been doing so far and this has my bow arm relaxed. His way my arm muscles felt tensed and loaded. His comment was when I could use my arm muscles I could correct and aim better in the long run..
BH setting wise limb flex I think read somewhere comes into play as well - I have very little insight into this aspect - so perhaps he eyeballed this as well when he was setting up my bow. I am just at entry level maple cored #22 limbs here but 31"draw so perhaps there is another rub he took into account. Again -?-

The other two spig rev archers who commented in another thread mentioned 8.5 and 8.75" BH though on theirs 
and I believe they have been 'at it' for time lol. Cera has had her Rev for a while but has not put it through its paces much yet though and she is at 8.5 currently.
Charles has his at 8.75 with his DL similar to my own and loves how it shoots I think..
Friday night is another evening at the club. Kept things at 8.5 last night but reckon with 15-20 twists I could get to 9..
Or I could try the replacement string from the dealer I purchased the Spig from - it says 168cm on the box - 66.14".. but its serving is not as well fitting I know as the one I got fitted from the gentleman at the store yesterday. Hm well side by side the new one is perhaps 3mm shorter than the one fitted yesterday. Will see.



One thing noticably different vs the club bow - my draw felt much smoother. Release went better - no more pinching at my hook to speak of. 
And even with the added distraction of a fellow club member using my target from two positions over every now and then and chatting away XD 
my arrows áll arced nicely and true even with me being a smidge tense from my day earlier. Groupings were off but that was me half trying that more bent arm and half reverting to what I have been doing before.. That and the chatting lol


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

Many coaches I’ve worked with or collaborated with agree that a bent arm is not ideal for an OR or recurve shooter. When you have to resist the full draw weight of a recurve, at full draw, you really don’t want to be using all muscle to resist the force of the bow. You are much better off using your skeletal structure to bear most of the weight. 

The bent arm process of shooting was very popular with compound shooters and with the 65+ and 75+ percent let off, when you are holding 10lbs of DW at full draw it’s easy to resist the pull of the bow and thus a bent arm would afford you more clearance from string or cable slap. Some also felt because of so little holding DW, using a bent arm would “pretension” your muscles and allow for a stronger holding steady.

I’m sure there are some that successfully shoot with the two different techniques but I for one will continue to recommend my students shoot recurve with a straight (not locked) bow arm.


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## dboeren (Dec 18, 2019)

Does anyone know how the Spig Revolution compares to the Spig BB riser? Also, are there any issues with the Revolution needing periodic checking to make sure all the screws, etc... remain tight? I've heard some comments to that effect but it seems to me like some Loctite probably ought to take care of that.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

RE Brace height.

It’s not about clearance from the arm, and much more about timing of when the arrow releases from the string. When you find the correct BH for your bow, the bow usually becomes noticeably quieter and smoother at release. The idea being that when the arrow nock gets pulled off the string, the arrow will be in “recovery” or straight and moving straight forward just as the nock pops off the string. (See archers paradox) When the nock pops off the string at an angle it’s like plucking an instrument string and the affect on the arrow is that the tail of the arrow is pushed one way or the other depending on which ear of the nock plucks the string. Besides being noisy, this also makes for a less forgiving setup. The harder the back of the arrow gets plucked, and this can be affected by a poor release from the archer, collapsing archer, and host of many other errors by us “less than perfect machines”, the larger the affect on the shot. Having the arrow release straight, means a larger “window” to those errors we introduce and thus a more forgiving setup to our less than perfect shot.

This is why BH tuning is an important part of the setup of a bow. BTW everything you do, everything you add, or change on the bow, arrows or even in your shooting, can affect the optimum BH and it’s different for everyone. When you find what works best for you, if you hand your bow to a friend to let them shoot it, They may find the BH is not optimum because something is different in their shot cycle. 

DC


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

dboeren said:


> Does anyone know how the Spig Revolution compares to the Spig BB riser? Also, are there any issues with the Revolution needing periodic checking to make sure all the screws, etc... remain tight? I've heard some comments to that effect but it seems to me like some Loctite probably ought to take care of that.


The ónly difference between the OR and BB Revolution versions are that the OR has CNC cutouts in the outer riser parts and the BB version does not - making for a 150gr weight difference between them. 
The only rattling screws noticed here were those that come with the riser for securing a sight to it while none was mounted ^^
This bow has been around for sóme time and early days saw some issues with the bolts holding things together. 
Back then the warranty was 2 years. Then the warranty became 5 years. 
Current ( 2018+ ) Revolutions come with 10 years warranty... 

Oh wait sorry I think perhaps you were referring to the Spigarelli BB? Another beast altogether that thing.. Looks very nice is all I can say about that one ^^


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Thank you dchan
Yes I think I will stick to aligned and on the bones. It just does not feel at all steady nor do I think I could ever have the arm bent in any consistant manner.
The man who set my bow up was from another club and I understand there are some differences between their approaches to things and some rivalry also perhaps lol..

re brace height - someone remarked once it made a difference with them with clearance of their arm when grip wrist rotation shoulder everything was right but.. 
The past evening I was all over the place trying that arm bent thing and heard my joints creacking. The draw felt smooth but I was anything but.

Got some 'homework' in the form of some books to read and things will be hectic the coming weeks schedule wise for us - I will set my sights on to the evenings when an OR instructor is present at the club - have them eye my shots and perhaps tweak that bh or not. My 'follow the book' mentality would have me go for the minimum bh recommendation by the people who designed and manufactured the bow and take it from there.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

By the way, a correct BH can lower the amount of vibration upon release, and help with loosening screw problems.


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## dboeren (Dec 18, 2019)

Yes, I meant the Spigarelli BB riser - this guy: https://www.lancasterarchery.com/spigarelli-bb-25-barebow-recurve-riser.html

Sorry if that was unclear. Anyway, glad to hear that the reports of loose screws are no longer a concern.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

dchan said:


> By the way, a correct BH can lower the amount of vibration upon release, and help with loosening screw problems.


Yes that is one thing that stands out with this 8.5 bh isn't it ^^


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

dboeren said:


> Yes, I meant the Spigarelli BB riser - this guy: https://www.lancasterarchery.com/spigarelli-bb-25-barebow-recurve-riser.html
> 
> Sorry if that was unclear. Anyway, glad to hear that the reports of loose screws are no longer a concern.



View attachment 7018785


np ^^ mmm Silver or black would be my only questionmark with this thing - looks véry nice
Enjoy it when you get one =]


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## ceratops (May 17, 2017)

Roy D said:


> ...
> 
> The other two spig rev archers who commented in another thread mentioned 8.5 and 8.75" BH though on theirs
> and I believe they have been 'at it' for time lol. Cera has had her Rev for a while but has not put it through its paces much yet though and she is at 8.5 currently.
> ...


As I mentioned in the other thread, don't put much weight on my report of 8 1/2" brace height. That was not exhaustively checked or calibrated - as I recall, I read up a bit on recommended BH, put on the limbs and string I had on hand, determined that BH was at least within the recommended range, and then went to shoot the bow. It sounded fine, and so I didn't do any further fiddling w BH at that time. So... it was certainly good enough for the moment, but no effort made to optimize.

Please continue to update with your own findings on the Revolution


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

As you wish =]


Ok so stumbled into the club tonight a little late and tired and hurting intending to only spend half an hour or so there increasing the braceheight setting some nocks and loosing a few rounds but as it turns out it was another club match evening so had to join in to be able to loose those arrows. 
I put the BH at 9" - end of the evening it was 8 3/4ths... It felt múch nicer at 9 than it did at 8 1/2 so I will up to 9 1/2 next evening.. and watch it fall down again - apparently it will take about 500 shots before this string's done stretching.
I ended up scoring 214. Actually I did not want to know my score but could not resist asking lol. Again mostly 2 close arrows and one that is off.. Seems to be a pattern of mine when I am tired and distracted. Met a nice fellow tonight and we talked quite a bit between rounds. He said something like the ones that go nice with you is when you just do and the one I see you thinking about does not. 


The borrowed sight mounting plate dug into my riser's metal that first evening - the vibration probably makes that sort of thing more likely - so I put some PU film in between it and the riser - no more of that. New owners should do that right away or not care about that like I do ^^
And no more sight screws coming loose either from vibration..


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

*note
I just put on the lower nock only - wasn't time to put on the upper - and from what I understand of bh nocking points string stretch and tiller and limb geometry when during the course of the evening the string stretched the nockpoint went down again right? ( did not check yet ) so I think I will be carrying that floss and the seamripper in my pack for some time till things settled correct?


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

sigh no not down, back up. A whole weekend to sleep...


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

woohoo =]









..well best out of about 30 rounds of 3 lol and again usually two tight and one off.. Working on form and consistancy a lot still.. 
But even with my sight being a blur due to mostly just xmas lighting on the range and not being able to see the darn thing
this was not bad way to end the evening. Hopefully in a few weeks time my new spectacles with a better cylindrical adjustment will help as well.

I checked the BH before and after - it is holding steady at a hair over 9 1/4ths. Everyone noted it sounded good, better than last time.
Had the range's best shooter eyeball my arrow's flights and said the nocking point I had set was fine. I'd put that at 4.5mm over the 90° angle point - tiller setting set by a shop owner near here measured the clearance between the riser and the bolt at 18.3mm on the top one and 15.8 on the bottom.Measured with 50 yo but still sharp mitutoyo.
Working on form is difficult.. I find changing óne aspect throws all the other things off as well and it takes quite a bit of effort to get all the ducks back in a row.

Another difficult thing is setting that Spigarelli Revolution edition Z/T magnetic rest =_=
It has a bit of play up and down - the bushing the arm threads through - and this does confuddle trying to set the right height but I think I got it just about right.. Shop owner had set it before but having loosed a few hundred now noticed some wear on the brass at 1/3 from the top and not the middle.













Might be a hair too low now. Just for ease of checking later used those calipers and noted the arrowrest arm position relative to the grip's shelf - ( 7.8mm noting here so I don't lose it lol )

Speaking of the grip; that has a bit of play front to back - applying pressure to the bottom part of the grip opens a gap at the top relative to the riser of about 1mm.... Shim the top or shim the bottom?


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

...shim the whole thing ofcourse thinking about it later ^^ I'll use some of my son's playdoh set the play equally top and bottom and measure the difference between the playdoh and the riser and find some hard material to shim it with - or perhaps there is another material anyone can recommend using that sets but does not stick?


And one note on the button - that shooter eyeballed the arrow's flight for me and no fishtailing or porpoising at all but is it me or is that button protruding a lot? Not much to compare it with here.. And ofcourse this would be different with differently spined arrows I think..
Mine are marked 900/.006 with me at about 23# of drawweight and the button is at about 8mm proud with respect to the Z/T 6.4mm w respect to the cutout.. 

( And do tell if these button measurements are meaningless to do with respect to other people's Revolutions which is my sneaking suspicion ^^ )


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Christmas morning spent opening presents and enjoyed some quality time with my wife and son. Among the presents under the tree was the box of my Spig.
And a lego trainset for my son that his grandmother bought for him before she passed away and he is at an age to enjoy now.


Have been doing some homework reading coach Kim Hyung Tak's book. Incredibly useful.
I find I am doing so many things wrong - pretty consistently wrong though lol

Understand a lot more than I did before which isn’t saying much really but enough when thinking back on some of my questions and remembering my thinking getting a slight blush lol.
It really did not help I rolled into this in the holiday season and probably 3/4ths are barebow archers at my club and I kept asking and getting advice from lots of different trains of thought.

Besides my spinal injury I also have scoliosis and one leg is quite a bit longer than the other - when I adjust my posture to align hips and shoulder it feels like I am standing curved.. These issues make me lean and affects things a lot. Keeping these things in mind, putting my weight more on the balls of my feet and also toeing out a little bit relaxes my pelvis and I feel less strain in my back and a lot more steady.
Also found I had set up my fivics saker 1 tab just plain wrong; Lowered the ledge more, put the finger spreader more to the middle of its setting groove and my thumb can now rest relaxed under the ledge and the ledge sits much more comfortably at my anchorpoint.
Só much less tension everywhere.


Now to see if I can still hit the target with all of these changes next Friday evening


Have a great Christmas 
and thank you to everyone here answering my questions with patience and understanding !


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Lol.. this is turning into a blog thread ^^ 
My (annoying) enginerding streak popped up again - I should lock those calipers away - but I noticed on this Rev the limbs I got on 
have a bit of play when strung. 
Discovered there is no ILF spec manufacturers need to adhere to in order to be able to use the term ILF on their parts 
and found most brands will adhere to their own idea of acceptable tolerances. 
My luck in this case probably having tolerances going in opposite directions. 

Notice the dovetail bolts differ in shape between the two sets of limbs I have - mainly the length of the straight part to where 
the conical section begins and on one set the lower limb bolt slot is wider than the other but on both sets they are wider than they should be for this Rev. 
Shimmed the 9.35mmØ limb bolts on the Rev with some hard PU foil so that fit snug. 
Last time stringing things up I payed attention to string alignment and then forgot about it.. 

The diameter of the dovetail bolts on the limbs measure 10.86mmmm Ø - the only ILF 'spec' I could find from one manufacturer is *‪11.0236‬‬mm Ø.
My Revolution dovetail pocket necks measure 11.18mm and 11.14mm. Given I am using half a century old Mitutoyo vernier calipers ( still sharp though ) 
and my technique of measuring is probably not up to snuff there is "some" tolerance for error there.
There is some slop to the lining up of the radius on the lower limb pocket of my Rev I can see with the naked eye 
but that may just be the edge finish and the catching of the light.

Regardless overall its like 6 layers of aluminium kitchen foil difference - no brass shim is going to hold up in this application I think *shrugs* 
but then it's not like my accuracy or lack there of at this point is much affected really…

I will check alignment before and after next time-maybe just mark the outlines of the limbs on the riser with a fine pencil and see if there is any actual movement. 
Only worry I have if this proves the case is whether this sort of play with my growing pains limbs will slop out my Rev's dovetail pockets 
as loosing the limbs will flex and torque and those conical sections might ride the inner edge of the pockets…_?_
Any particular brands of limbs out there other Revolution owners find fit nice and snug on theirs ?!

Much more worrisome for my grouping is my tendency for tensing up. Did not help I was coming down with the flu either as it turns out. 
Aches and pains everywhere.
Paying attention to changing some things in my posture I lost the process and ended up plucking the darn string sending my arrows flying left. 
Much more annoying than any play in the limbs.

My tab needs trimming too but a bit apprehensive to do that.. one of these evenings though talcum powder and xacto knife.
Practiced how to do a finger sling properly out of some wide flat lacing and going to use it next Monday. 
Hopefully my aches and pains from this flu will have disappeared enough but despite some frustration with myself I really look forward to time spent there ^^


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

FYI. ILF is not a “standard”

A little history. https://www.bow-international.com/features/ask-the-experts-16/


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Thanks for the link to this story Yes I discovered as much ^^
Pity in a way.. But I suppose now nobody has to pay any royalties for using this limb fitting system.
Hoyt did not start filing patents, at least not under the Hoyt name, until 2009 it seems
https://patents.justia.com/assignee/hoyt-archery-inc?page=2 Ah wait no Earlier ones under Hoyt/Easton name.. http://archery-shop.jp/manual/ILF_Patent.pdf Hm.

Any thoughts on the possible slopping out of the dovetail pockets using ill fitting limbs?


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Someone else is going to get to work on his form soon..















*sigh whý is the forum software always orienting to landscape and ignoring orientation data of the photo*


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

This made working on the bow so much easier..







Stanley 1-83-069 Maxsteel vise. €30. Clamps onto the center bar of the riser with its rubber jaw covers perfectly asif it was purpose made.
The worktop mount was just that little bit shy of wide enough to fit on the table's top so in this pic it was mounted on a leg instead but found out our table extends and the exposed frame does fit nicely and then gives enough clearance to mount the bow with the limbs attached and the bow fully vertically easily ( 70' bow total, regular diningtable height ) 
Can swivel it and secure in many orientations and the jaws give enough clearance to mount a front stab even. 
The bow at a 45° angle provides a great way to eye alignment in limited space.
I'd only put a rag or something over the jaw's axels to prevent marring the riser when placing it in them too deeply; 
the threaded axel that opens and closes the jaws has a smaller Ø than the outer guiding ones but they are all hardened steel and if you jar the riser inward or loosen it and it falls inward that might not be ideal for the riser's finish. The rubber pads also require some care to make sure they stay in place as they are easily slid off exposing the hardened steel and sharp jaws.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Well as it turns out it was not all me that was off. The dealer has seen a video of the issue and some macro shots of my risers' dovetail pockets and measurements, measurements of the limbs and have come back with this is definately an issue to adress. 
Judging by how they have done their best for me so far am confident it will be resolved in the end but I fear I might have to make do with the club bow again for a while =/


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

A little update 

The second hand Shibuya Dual Click 2018 was declared officially lost on the way in the mail system and I got my money refunded from the seller even before she got her money back from the postal service.
Lesson learnt; always send or have it sent with insurance if it has any appreciable value. 
Very thankful she did this at her own expense - I've had such good luck with the mail it did not occur to me to suggest an insured send. It would have been a reasonably costly lesson to learn.

Purchased a Shibuya Dual Click 2019 new with a little discount from the dealer after having heard the old Ultima would not be priced down with the introduction of the new and got to spend the last evening with it and what a difference that made. Only had it roughly dialed in by copying from the temporary sight I had borrowed from the club which was less than true and straight and rattly in several respects and after about an hour on the line with those settings and asking for some eyeballing of my form from fellow archers to help me correct my goofs dialed it in a little more and I found my rhythm a little and things started to come together to the point where I was before I got the flu and my weeks were hectic. The sight is a breeze to set. Only downer was opening up the package and finding the bolts for the conically cut mounting block was not the same Ø or threading as the Spigarelli riser's sight mounting holes which are metric M4 and the bolts that accompanied the riser have flat heads which would have cut into that mounting block..
Found some stainless M4 20mm with conical heads in my garage and used those to mount snug. The conical heads on the ones from Shibuya are larger than anything I could find though these fit ok. The dealer had another package heading my way yesterday and he had put in an assortment of bolts for me to try but found none of those any better than the ones I had already put in -still that was a nice touch from them. 

My new glasses though not optimal yet still also helped a lot. Took some getting used to not having the target move to the left as much as it did when viewed through the edge of the lenses as with my previous glasses. Another lesson learnt - do not get glasses with extra thin lenses.
Increases refraction value and looking through those away from the center of the lenses causes much more distortion than the standard ( and cheaper ^^ ) thickness that I got this time round. 


But the main reason why things started to come together wasn't the sight so much or the glasses but the help I got from my fellow club members and that I got the pressure into the grip ríght at setup and then I got that feeling they were going to fly right and true even before I loosed. 
It is difficult to get that feel where that is with the stock Revolution grip - for me at least.
Perhaps I will do what I saw other grips have and sharpen the edges a little to make that easier to feel in my hand. Started to get two arrows stuck together and one off by only a little and then the very last group of three was a triangle of maybe half an inch and so close to center that I thought I should dial the sight some more but it was late so left that for the next evening feeling pretty good about what I took from this one.


The dealer has contacted the importers of both the limbs and the riser to seek a solution for me with regards to the alignment issues. The issue is definitely double edged - these limbs are less than good and this risers' pockets are machined a little off and the limb bolts have too small a Ø compared to others apparently to get a tight and lined up fit. Managed to get in touch with another dozen or so other Revolution owners over the course of the past weeks and none reported the issues mine has with regard to fit so I have good hopes things will work out - either by receiving a replacement riser or replacement dovetail pockets and limb bolts. All others reported tight to too tight fits with everything from Sanlida to Uukha Hoyt W&W SF and others on their Revolutions. The W&W SF Premium Carbons #30 I put on mine from another club member yielded pretty much the same results as these Starks - one finger's pressure on the tip of a limb can make it move laterally a few degrees and makes my arrow move from center shot to the left or to the right quite substantially. And eyeballing alignment evening to evening it never seems to be quite the same. 

Limbs wise it seems from several accounts I can do a lot better with a pair of Sanlida X9 or X10 so putting money aside to upgrade to those from these Stark limbs. It may work out that the dealer will take these Stark limbs back so the upgrade will present not so much added cost.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

A long post for a little problem ^^ but one I think other Revolution owners out there can run into and take something out of..


So I received a Shibuya Dual Click 2019 sight recently and of course it comes with AMO standard imperial metal screws to fit onto a riser with standard AMO fittings all the way. Our Revolutions come with M4 threading for sight mountings - the metal screws from Shibuya are more like M5.. 
The Shibuya's mounting block has an upside down apollo capsule well shape machined into it from the risers' pov. Closest to the riser a neck about M5 in diameter and 2.96mm long then a cone shape of an as yet unmeasured angle that starts at an M5-ish diameter and ends in an M10 ish diameter about 4 point something mm further up to sit flush within the Shibuya block surface.
The supplied Shibuya metal screws fit the Shibuya block like a glove but the screws my archery dealer sent did not - not the same conical angle or size of the head. They sat deeper into the well and did not work very well. The dealer said it would be fine.. Their threaded length was a little longer than the Shibuya screws, but shorter than the Spigarelli ones. Photo shows Shibuya screw then Spigarelli screw then dealer supplied screw and lastly the screws I currently use. 









The Spigarelli screws are not usable because their hex nut heads protrude into the path the Shibuya sight extension bar rides plus flat heads so those would reAlly bite into the Shibuya blocks' well… I checked that all the screw threads matched the Spigarelli ones.

There is also the matter of the less than optimally tightly tapped threading in the riser.
Quite a bit of play in the threading. The Spigarelli supplied screws threaded in right up to their heads from either the sight side or cutout side can wiggle about quite a bit. 
Add to this that the conical head of any M4 metal screw found here does not match the Shibuya's conical shape and the straight neck part does not center m4 screws at all they can bite into the Shibuya block and tighten at a slight angle. Loose some arrows and that loos-ish threading in the riser and less than optimal grip of the head comes into play and result is more biting into the metal of the sight mounting block creating more play and the sight rattles loose - which it did once, then twice - then I packed things up and headed home. 
Photo of the Shibuya Dual Click block after very little use.. Unevenly marred and dug into now inside the conical well.









Frustrating since right after warm up at the beginning of the evening this novice managed an end of three all in the gold -_- 

This riser is heading back to the factory anyway for that limb pocket play issue - the tap of the sight mount screws has been added to the list. Shame about the marring of the Shibuya now though.


My riser having been eyed by a very experienced and technical minded archer and a neighbor who is a machinist ( and a target shooter ^^ ) conclusions are when I get a new riser use loctite 243 on the threading of the sight mount metal screws and wait a few days for it to cure completely before using if the threading is as playful as before - or even when it is not. Loctite 243 can be loosened with hand tools when needed - it is not a permanent bond. But it does fill loose threading nicely and is good at vibration proofing. Plus it will isolate the screw from the aluminium threading and prevent oxidation in there. 

If I wanted an even more hardcore durable solution but a bit more costly Helicoils threaded into the riser was a enthusiastic suggestion by the machinist but this involves a bit of precision work by said machinist ( would be at cost here but normally this is a bit time consuming work..)

For the other aspect - machining M4 screws that fit the Shibuya block perfectly. 
Other than that to use a longer M4 metal screw with more usable threading and with more or less the proper shape conical head and then a bushing to center the screw in the neck of the block and something compressible but firm in the conical well so it will not bite into the softer aluminium creating more problems. 
I found some bushing type things in my inherited stash of my fathers' nuts bolts and assorted stuff but they are not a good fit;









If anyone knows the trade name of these things that would be nice ^^ Blank stares so far from everyone I have shown these to from car mechanics to machinists to very well stocked hardware stores and fastener manufacturers lol..

I set about tinkering with a few nylon wall plugs I found that measured almost perfectly; nearly 5mm outer diameter and the inner diameter was 3.6mm with a conical shape a the top for a sunken screw head to fit into.. 









I took an M4 metal screw and inserted it straight and worked it in and out in an out over several minutes to create threading in the nylon until it ran smoothly.. Took the screw out inserted the plug in the Shibuya block and marked for length. Cut it well inside of the mark so it would not protrude when pressure from the tightened screw would have it depress into the mounting block well and down that straight neck towards the riser.

Ended up with something looking very much like those black bushing like objects in the end and mounted the Shibuya block to the riser with them sleeved over the screws. The M4 metal screws I purchased are 20mm in length - 16mm of which is threading. Fully tightened there is about 3.5mm of usable threading left in the riser - going for a 25mm sized screw would use all of it but would have it protrude a little into the cutout. For the next rev I will have my machinist neighbor do his thing and end up with screws that use áll of the available threading. 
Not like the standard Spigarelli supplied screws would use all of the threading unless inserted without a sight at all lol but hey its there so why not use the max amount of it when possible..









Tightened the screws a few turns at a time into the riser first one than the other till it all sat flush and felt tight and last night loosed about 50 rounds of 3 checking every round at first then later on every 10 and the sight stayed steady and fast on the riser! 
The nylon neck centered the screws well and the nylon conical shape is being compressed by the screw's head into the Shibuya's block and makes that the screw has proper and buffered purchase in there so for now this is the best solution…



_Again If anyone knows the trade name of those black bushing things with the conical end please let me know - a supply of ready made ones would be nice to have at hand as I suspect they will need replacing sooner or later._


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## Stash (Jun 1, 2002)

Did it occur to you to ask your machinist friend to simply re-tap the riser for the larger 10-24 Shibuya screws? With the proper tools it could have been done in less time than writing one of your posts.

I haven’t measured the width of the sections on the Spigarelli riser, so that would be assuming the section that the mount goes on is wide enough to take the slightly larger holes.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Stash said:


> Did it occur to you to ask your machinist friend to simply re-tap the riser for the larger 10-24 Shibuya screws? With the proper tools it could have been done in less time than writing one of your posts.


XD Yes it did - but this riser is heading back to the factory shortly probably and we did not think they would appreciate this so much..
And not everyone has a machinist for a neighbour but will probably run into this issue if they by a Shibuya for this particular riser and casually use the screws a dealer hands them like I did.. Drilling holes straight and true and threading them correctly is not a fix most people have the tools to do themselves here especially not imperial over here.. so thought I would share this one for now.

Not all sights present this problem though. The little KAP sight I was using before was fine.. Drilling and threading imperial sized holes just to fit thís Shibuya sight might not be the most practical thing to do either.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

Stash said:


> I haven’t measured the width of the sections on the Spigarelli riser, so that would be assuming the section that the mount goes on is wide enough to take the slightly larger holes.


Yeah that was another considoration - perhaps reason why Spigarelli went with M4. 12mm thick center bar where the sight mounts are. 4mm holes now and close to the edges of the bar. 10/24 is around 5mm so a little closer to the edges again then and this riser does flex a little. Early models suffered breaks..
The manual refers to the slight upturned angle of any attached sight - they put those holes as close to the edge of the bars as they dared..











This little fix with the plug required a knife and a screwdriver and 5 minutes of work and maybe 50 cents worth of parts.

typing did take a little longer ^^ but perhaps it saves some others some headaches..



I'd go with any fix that does not mess with the riser so that manufacturer warranty issues are always negated.. Loctite and bushings and/or made to fit screws seems the shortest and easiest route to take. Am sure my machinist neighbour will derrive as much pleasure from making those metal screws to spec or rather showing me how to do it because running a lathe was one of those things my father showed me as a kid but never did get to do myself ^^


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## nex667 (Sep 1, 2018)

In my club I know 5 archers who use a Spigarelli Revolution, all of them use Shibuya Sights. I'll try to ask them which screws they used to screw on the mounting block, though have to earn you that I might forget that when I'm at the range.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

nex667 said:


> In my club I know 5 archers who use a Spigarelli Revolution, all of them use Shibuya Sights. I'll try to ask them which screws they used to screw on the mounting block, though have to earn you that I might forget that when I'm at the range.


5 at the same club wow At my club only one other member had even seen a Rev before
Fitting screws out of a box would be ever so much easier though Nex thank you



Must say though I was looking forward to seeing that lathe in action ^^


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## nex667 (Sep 1, 2018)

Met one of our Revolution-shooters at the range today. He wasn't sure cause he bought the riser 5 or 6 years ago, but he assumed that the riser came screws with cylindrical heads because he had them in his sight block. Wasn't a problem for him because he uses an aluminium shibuya and there the extension bar runs between the mounting screw for the block.


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## Roy D (Nov 30, 2019)

hi Nex well thanks for remembering to ask anyways ^^ My diy solution works well enough so far and for as long as its needed I hope.. Dealer promised quick resolution on this that and the other thing.


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