# Seeking advice on starting out with backyard target archery...



## Double S

Welcome to AT.


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## SWriverstone

Thanks for the welcome Double S! 

So I was looking around, and it seems like something like a Buckeye Recurve Bow ($209.95 at Amazon) would be a good starter bow. It's 62" with 25-30-35lb draw.

I also noticed that Martin and PSE have similar bows.

I definitely like the look of a recurved bow, and appreciate the portability of a takedown bow.

Any comments or thoughts?

Thanks,
Scott


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## rycountryboy

*:welcome: to AT*


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## Dthbyhoyt

:welcome: 2 ArcheryTalk


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## Tim Roberts

Scott.





















Try and visit a local club in your area and a local dealer. That way you'll be able to have a look at a number of different bows etc.


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## smurphysgirl

Welcome to AT! (My suggestion is to head to local archery shops and test shoot as many as you can) Happy shooting!
*X*---------------------------:archer:


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## Andy.

Welcome to AT :welcome:


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## brock2

It sounds like your good and fit, I'd suggest a little stronger pull, at least #45 o 50. I just picked up a bow myself, after a 10 or so year break because of a bad shoulder, ( finally got it working better) I now shoot compound because of it, but always shot recurve in past, I made my target, many are nothing more than a bag of rags, living on a farm I have acess to feed sacks, and I just stuff one full of rags, they even make a bag called a "super sack", its about 50" square, you only need 1/2 of its thickness or less, usually 12" is enough to stop a recurve, I'd suggest a large target, especially if you have close neighbors, plus the new carbon arrows are not cheap, you don't want to loose any.


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## Lonnie_C

Welcome to Archery Talk Scott! I have several articles on my blog, listed below, under the category of "Archery Tips" that you will find useful. Read them from the bottom up, each new article I write goes to the top of the list. Also, click the 'About' tab at the top, so you know where I'm coming from. Then send me a private message and I will help all I can over the electronic media. All the best, Lonnie


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## SWriverstone

Thanks Brock, Lonnie and everyone else. I'll check out your blog Lonnie!

The question of recurved vs. compound is interesting. I'm much more drawn (in an aesthetic sense) to the traditional "non-complicated" beauty of recurved bows and longbows. The thought that those bows might just be plain harder never occurred to me.

I'm not weak at all (I've been a whitewater kayaker for years)...but I remember attempting to pull the string on a compound bow once in a store and could barely get it 6 inches, LOL (maybe it was just a tough one).

I actually do have a local archery shop—Middle Creek Archery in Inwood, West Virginia. My impression is that they're primarily geared toward hunting, but I could be wrong.

In fact, the "divide" (if there is one) between hunting archery and target archery is something I'm curious about. For example, does anyone hunt with a recurved bow? And do compound bow archers spend a lot of time shooting at targets? (I'd assume so!)

In any event, as I mentioned above, I'm drawn to the traditional beauty of archery, and the quiet, contemplative aspect of target archery. I also own and shoot pistols...but can't shoot (guns) in my backyard, and buying/shooting firearms can get expensive (unless it's just small-caliber stuff like .22). Archery is quiet, and I have a 1.5-acre yard with a steep ridge at the back side—perfect for archery!

Scott


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## SWriverstone

Lonnie, I just read all your blog posts under "Archery Tips." Great stuff! 

I'm smiling because like many sports, the more you learn, the more questions you have. For example, I had no clue that modern archers use a device for releasing the string (I guess "caliper release" is the generic term? But I also noticed "back tension release" and "trigger release.") I just assumed everyone did it the "old school way," e.g. fingers around the string.

So is using a release considered totally standard fare these days? If so, what type of release is best for a beginner?

I'm also clueless about sights. I have this idyllic notion in my head that good archers should be able to split one arrow with a second one using nothing more than the bow itself (and good aim). But like the release...it seems that a sight pin in front/peep sight at the rear is also standard fare? Can sights be attached to any bow (recurved or compound)? Or must specific manufacture-installed sight mounts be present?

Lots of questions! 

Scott


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## baddaddy

Welcome to AT.


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## Lonnie_C

Scott,

I love your enthusiam and inquiring mind. It is true that 'most' modern archers use some kind of a mechanical release aid, mainly becuase it is generally more accurate than shooting with fingers. I have some finger shooting friends that take exception to that statement, but it is easier to master a release aid that a great finger shot. The _quickest_ way to have some success is with a trigger style release - we are all generally familiar with a trigger and how that hold, aim, squeeze process works. I would start a new shooter there.

My personal preference is a single pin, adjustable site. I use one made by HHA, it has been durable and reliable. One key concept to keep in mind is that you are shooting a rifle-like projectile. That being said, no one in their right mind would put shotgun bead sight on a rifle. For that same reason, you need a rear and front reference for aiming correctly. 

I have not seen a current model recurve or compound that is not already tapped to receive a sight, using your term, standard fare. As to being able to split one arrow with another with nothing more than stick and string - sure, it CAN be done, but not by very many people and not consistently. 

For example, I was at a B.A.S.S. Fishing seminar. There was this good ol' boy with a flippin' stick at the casting range. He had 10 numbered 8 ounce styrofoam cups lined up at 20 paces. He was shouting out challenges,"Betch y'all a hunnert dallars I can put 'er in cup number 3!" There were a bunch of wise fisherman there, no one took his challenge. He flipped the plug accross that 20 paces, dropped it dead in the center of the cup and didn't even knock it over! Then he did it again in number 6, then number 2 and so on. How much practice do you think that took? 

At the end of the day - what do you want to do with your shooting Scott? Think about it, it will dictate my answers from here on out.
All the best, Lonnie. 
PS - Everyone else - do like Scott did, go to my blog and read my 'Archery Tips'! :wink:


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## BowArmory

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## SWriverstone

Alright! Since starting this thread I've found out about...

• The Tuscarora Archers — an archery club in Frederick, MD that has their own indoor range...and...
• Lancaster Archery Supply — this looks like one of the biggest/best archery shops in the Mid-Atlantic region.

I plan to attend the club meeting next month...but before then (possibly this weekend) I'm heading up to Lancaster Archery Supply (about a 2-hour drive from my place) to get set up with my first gear! Spoke to Scott Buck on the phone there, and he said since I'm coming such a long way to be sure to give him a heads-up and he'll make sure someone gives me all the advice and help I need. (Nice to hear!)

So my plan is to buy...
• a recurve takedown bow (nothing fancy, just a solid starter bow)
• arrows (obviously)...whatever the best ones are for learning and practice (aluminum?)
• a quiver
• some kind of release
• some kind of sight
• don't know if I need a stabilizer or not?
• any other accessories I might need (like a case for the bow...possibly an arm guard, a bow stringer, etc.)

I'm still wondering about targets. I'm sure they'll have plenty of options at LAS...but I've also noticed Dick's Sporting Goods has a wide variety of foam blocks and big bags, and I'm guessing they're as cheap there as anywhere? On the other hand, I'm thinking I'd like to have a decent tripod stand for a large round target. I figure the bigger the target, the less likely a beginner is to miss it and lose arrows, right? 

Scott


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## bushmasterar15

Welcome to Archery Talk.


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## SCBOWHUNTER903

Welcome to AT


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## asa1485

Welcome to the site. Believe half of what you read and even less of what you see.


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## Rkonikoff

Welcome!


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## bltefft

Hi Scott,

You inquired about: 

a) a good starter bow (something in the $200-300 range would fit my budget)
I'm thinking traditional (recurve or longbow) here. When I started out, I bought a 45# bow and that was a BIG mistake. If I had gone to a bow shop, I'd have known that that was not going to work, but I bought it online. It is now unstring, hanging in my garage.
The next one I bought was a Samick Sage at 30#, now that was FUN and a great take-down recurve, too. Either a Samick Sage or a Southwest Archery Spyder would do good for you and either one goes for under $150. You can find them on Amazon - Just don't overbow yourself like I did. I bought my Samick Sage 30# online, from Amazon and it was one of my favorites. I sold it to buy a 30# Bodnik Slick Stick longbow, it is a really sweet shooter.

b) good target shooting arrows
The arrows I shoot are Carbon Express Heritage 150's and Gold Tip Traditional's. Both are durable and hold up well for me. The spine of the arrow will be determined by the poundage of your bow. I shoot 500- and 600-spine, cut to 28 inches with either 125 or 100-grain field points on them. Be sure the cock feather (the odd colored one) is at the 9 o'clock position for arrows shot from a trad bow - and at 12 o'clock for arrows shot from a compound bow. I rarely shoot from farther than 20 yards away.

c) decent targets
I only targets I use are Morrell Yellow Jacket Supreme's. I get them from Amazon. They remain outside all the time. I hang them from saw horses so that they don't rest on the ground and sit in water during a rain

d) any other accessories I might need.
For recurve bows you'll need a shooting glove, or a tab. And for a compound some kind of mechanical release. Your fingers with thank you. I don't use any man-made rest on my trad bows - I shoot "off the shelf". I once tried a mechanical release on one of my trad bows, but can't get it to work for me. But on my compounds, I have to have a mech. release.

e) a good instructional book and/or DVD (I know actual lessons would be better, but for now I'll have to be self-taught due to time and budget constraints).
I didn't use any books or DVD's. I watched some YouTube videos and talked to folks at my local bow shop. Basically, I just went outside and shot arrows. I've heard about the string walking technique and instinctive shooting, I guess I'm more of the later. I may not always hit exactly where I want, but I am always close (and even better, don't miss the whole target any more). Now with a compound, and sights, I'm often in the bulliseye and maybe an inch or less away at a distance to 20 yards.

Good luck and let us know what you get. 

Oh, I don't hunt with my bows now either, I just enjoy shooting in my yard. I used to bow hunt and enjoyed it, but when I lost my right leg in a motorcycle accident, I stopped. I had an extremely hard time tracking a deer and following a blood trail on my prothesis, especially having to cross a creek - once was enough for me - had to call my brother for help.

Now, I do deer hunt during gun season - my 45-70 Sharps flat out drops them in their tracks, actually it kinda' blows them backwards - no need to track 'em through the woods. Course, I only get one shot, but that was true for me with a bow, too.

Take care,
Bobby


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