# New Cables and String = Not being able to reach peak draw weight and some other issue



## millsmo752 (Jul 27, 2017)

I recently purchased new cables and string for my Bowtech Tomkat (2008 model). 

My peak poundage is 70lbs. With the limbs tightened down all the way(1/4 turn out), my peak draw weight is only 64lbs.

What needs to happen to obtain peak draw weight?

Also, when I nock an arrow and look straight down the spine, the tip of the arrow is way left. My rest is way left of the centerline of the grip. The weird thing is, it paper tuned perfectly. The measurements from the top/bottom of the riser out to the string are w/in 1/16 of an inch. The measurements on the outside edge of the nocked arrow to the arrow shelf are the same as well. It would appear that the cams are synced as well. This just baffles me. 

Is there something else out of whack or is the theory of the arrow being lined perfectly straight with the centerline of the grip an old wives tale?

Thanks for the help


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## millsmo752 (Jul 27, 2017)

FYI:
Paper tuning was completed at 3-4 yards and I have also French tuned this bow at 10 yards. 
Paper Tune = perfect bullet hole
French Tune = cut string.


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## 74Superlead (Jan 19, 2009)

millsmo752 said:


> I recently purchased new cables and string for my Bowtech Tomkat (2008 model).
> 
> My peak poundage is 70lbs. With the limbs tightened down all the way(1/4 turn out), my peak draw weight is only 64lbs.
> 
> ...


Got an 08 101st Airborne with 50-60lb limbs. I can only get 56lbs out of the limbs. It been shot and limbs eventually weaken. My 82nd Airborne tunes to the inside. Sounds like that's what's going on with the Tomcat....


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## millsmo752 (Jul 27, 2017)

74Superlead said:


> millsmo752 said:
> 
> 
> > I recently purchased new cables and string for my Bowtech Tomkat (2008 model).
> ...



I just got home and measured everything. Brace height is good and ATA is good. The cams are set to the left side of the bow. I had not noticed that in the past.


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## Rat (Jun 19, 2004)

Add twists to the cables to get peak weight up. This will lengthen your brace height a little so you will need to play with the string to get draw length back to what you need. As a rule I tune my bows to hit draw length and peak poundage; the brace height and A2A will be what it will be. 

Unfortunately there's not much you can do about the left/right. My Tribute is the same way, no yokes to tune and no way to shim the cam over (not enough room in the limb forks). My Tribute shoots rest left like your Tomkat, but it bareshaft tunes perfectly there and shoots lights out to 70 yards with broadheads. It looks a little goofy with the arrow pointing left, but it's just the nature of the beast.


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## millsmo752 (Jul 27, 2017)

Thank you for your help. All measurements are w/in Bowtech's specs and it shoots perfect bullet holes through paper. I guess I will quick worrying about it.

Thanks guys.


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## Wyatt gray (Jul 14, 2016)

Add twist to the cables that will get the peak weight up and 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## millsmo752 (Jul 27, 2017)

Which cable do I add twist to?


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## huteson2us2 (Jun 22, 2005)

About 40 years ago, I was taught the proper way to change strings and cables. Make or buy replacement strings and cables. Stretch at 200# overnight. Measure strings and cables and add twists until they are exactly at the correct measurement under 200# of tension. If the tune chart calls for a string length to be 59.25". Make sure the string is 59.25" under tension. Then carefully put the string on the bow without changing the number of twists. Do the same with each cable. 

Never trust a string maker. Always check and adjust. I have seen shops that takes a string or cable off the shelf and put it on a bow. Then they put a certain number of twists on and never measure the string or cable with the twists. That is why you end up with a bow that does not have the proper weight, ATA, brace height, or with the cams in synch.


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## Rat (Jun 19, 2004)

millsmo752 said:


> Which cable do I add twist to?


Both, to get the peak weight right. Then you may need to add or remove a half or a full twist from one to get the cam sync back to perfect. The reason for this is that there is different levels of tension on each cable and one cable may be already twisted more than the other. In either case just twisting the cables the same number of turns may result in an out of sync cam. Once peak weight is achieved, then adjust the cam sync.


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

huteson2us2 said:


> About 40 years ago, I was taught the proper way to change strings and cables. Make or buy replacement strings and cables. Stretch at 200# overnight. Measure strings and cables and add twists until they are exactly at the correct measurement under 200# of tension. If the tune chart calls for a string length to be 59.25". Make sure the string is 59.25" under tension. Then carefully put the string on the bow without changing the number of twists. Do the same with each cable.
> 
> Never trust a string maker. Always check and adjust. I have seen shops that takes a string or cable off the shelf and put it on a bow. Then they put a certain number of twists on and never measure the string or cable with the twists. That is why you end up with a bow that does not have the proper weight, ATA, brace height, or with the cams in synch.


Hate to break it to you but you were taught wrong all those years ago. The AMO standard is to stretch at 100lbs for 20 seconds before measuring for install.


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## huteson2us2 (Jun 22, 2005)

You stretch at 100# and I will stretch at 200#. I don't care about AMO. I want the best string I can make. I have no stretch or peep rotation after I put the cables and string on. I do not have to shoot any arrows to get the strings settled in. 

I will try an experiment. The next set that I make, I will put them under 100# of pressure and see if it makes any difference. If it doesn't, then I will no longer stretch them at 200# of pressure and will do it your way. The point of my post was to put the twists in until the string or cable meets the required measurement and then place it on the bow. Thank you for correcting me on such a minor detail.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

huteson2us2 said:


> You stretch at 100# and I will stretch at 200#. I don't care about AMO. I want the best string I can make. I have no stretch or peep rotation after I put the cables and string on. I do not have to shoot any arrows to get the strings settled in.
> 
> I will try an experiment. The next set that I make, I will put them under 100# of pressure and see if it makes any difference. If it doesn't, then I will no longer stretch them at 200# of pressure and will do it your way. The point of my post was to put the twists in until the string or cable meets the required measurement and then place it on the bow. Thank you for correcting me on such a minor detail.


Build a string, stretch at 200#. Build a string, some stretch at 300#. MEASURE A STRING, you measure at 100#. Build a string, stretch for as long as you like, stretch at whatever poundage you like. But, when you MEASURE a string, for spec length, MEASURE at 100#.


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## huteson2us2 (Jun 22, 2005)

Alan. You are missing the point. The point is to twist the strings and cables under tension until the correct lengths are reached and then put the strings and cables on the bow. Most archers will buy or make strings, then put the strings on the bow and then twist until the cams hit at same time putting the length of the strings and cables at a different length than than they are suppose to be making the brace and ATA wrong resulting in incorrect bow weight. 

You should not be hung up on the weight I use to twist my strings as that will make almost no difference at all. Take 5 minutes and measure a string that has already been stretched for 24 hours at 100# compared to a string that has been stretched at 200# for 24 hours. Then twist and measure at 100# and 200#. Tell us the difference that you get. In the end the strings will be the exact same measurement. 

Yes AMO recommend 100# stretch and I am not stating that everyone uses 200# to stretch. I have found that by using 200#, I do not have that little bit of peep twisting during the first 200 shots and my peep comes back straight every time from my first shot and my string measures exactly 59.75" just like one stretched at 100#. But I don't want anyone else to try it because AMO recommends 100#. I am stating that everyone should twist the strings to the correct measurement prior to putting the strings on their bow not after.


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