# "Hunting" vs. "Target" ILF bow lengths



## Clang! (Sep 29, 2007)

I've been trying to figure this out...
With the 23" and 25" target risers, the recommendations for draw length vs bow length is as follows: 
Draw Length / Bow Length
up to 27" / 64"
24 - 29" / 66"
27" - 31" / 68"
29" and up / 70
I've shot some of the bows and found out that the chart is pretty accurate. The bows tend to stack one you exceed the recommended draw length.

Here's where my confusion comes in. The same draw length recommendations with the shorter "hunting" risers end up with a bow 6-8 inches shorter. But, with the exception of the Border limbs, I'm not seeing any big change in geometry.

Are there differences in the limb pocket angles that allows the bows with the shorter riser and lower brace height to draw as smooth as the longer target bows? Or are these compromised to get a shorter overall length?


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## MAC 11700 (Feb 22, 2011)

I have no issue of stacking on my 21" Excell riser with the med TT Black Max carbon limbs..This comes out to a 64" bow per Lancaster's where I bought it..I guessing I have a average draw lenght of 28.5" with it..and I can say it is very smooth all the way back.so..I don't know about having a 6"-8" shorter bow..and I can hunt with it if I choose too..When my Dryad riser comes in in the fall..I'll see what effects it has on it..

Mac


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## bilbowbone (Jan 15, 2011)

I shoot a 25" Hoyt Horizon with #40 medium Hoyt ZR330 limbs for a bow of 68". I recently got to shoot a friend's $1,100.00 60" #45 Black Widow. Widow was cool but I don't care what anyone tells me now, my $450.00 68" Hoyt set up is incomparably smoother and sweeter to shoot!


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## voodoofire1 (Jan 24, 2006)

I've got a TT black onyx 15" riser with TT black max carbon long limbs and a 30" draw, bow is 60" and have zero issues with stacking......


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Clang - 

A properly chosen and set up/tuned ILF bow (or any decent bow) shouldn't "stack" at it's shooter's draw length. However given the demands of consistent accuracy, both for close range spot targets and at extended ranges (70 - 90M), the target guys really do need a bow that "stacks" the odds in their favor. The longer bows will allow more limb pocket tuning without fear of stacking, generally greater smoothness especially at the clicker break and have less finger pinch. They are typically more stable in the hand as well. Being able to shoot 60, 112 or 144 arrows with consistency under a time limit is very different than a few dozen shots on a 3D course or one or two when hunting. 

Counter points - Yes, a lot of very short ILF risers like the TT Titan do have different limb pocket angles than, for example, the Hoyt 21" - 25" risers, which are all pretty standard. That's necessary to prevent both stacking and an over stressed condition. 

Also, before tree stands and blinds became so popular, longer hunting bows weren't that uncommon. I know I wasn't the only guy out there with a 70" Hill longbow ...

Bottom line it's more a matter of picking the right tool for the right job and there will be compromises either way.

Viper1 out.


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## Clang! (Sep 29, 2007)

bilbowbone said:


> I shoot a 25" Hoyt Horizon with #40 medium Hoyt ZR330 limbs for a bow of 68". I recently got to shoot a friend's $1,100.00 60" #45 Black Widow. Widow was cool but I don't care what anyone tells me now, my $450.00 68" Hoyt set up is incomparably smoother and sweeter to shoot!


How well does the Horizon balance for traditional shooting? My ultimate goal is a "NFAA Traditional class" legal bow, and the dedicated barebow risers (Spig 650, etc.) are well out of my budget. I'm assuming that the hunting length risers are better balanced for shooting without a stabilizer array.


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## Chupacabras (Feb 10, 2006)

I have the 23 " horizon riser with med.TT carbon wood limbs set up bare bow(flipper rest w/ plunger) . I have no balance issue shooting with the bow canted. Have tubed several carbon arrows @20 yards with this set up. I draw 28". Would love to try a 21 " riser with short limbs.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Clang -

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1496684

I really think it needs some lower end weight (IMHO. most bows do), but that might be a personal call. 

Viper1 out.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

Clang! said:


> How well does the Horizon balance for traditional shooting? My ultimate goal is a "NFAA Traditional class" legal bow, and the dedicated barebow risers (Spig 650, etc.) are well out of my budget. I'm assuming that the hunting length risers are better balanced for shooting without a stabilizer array.


You can pick-up a Spig Revolution for a little more then the Horizon, but it has a look which some people don't like.
I've got a Bernardini Nilo that I shoot for NFAA Trad and it definitely balances much nicer then my previous non-BB specific riser. But in hind-sight I would have gone with the Spig 650, I find myself trying to add more weight to the Nilo as I get used to it.

Perhaps one of the longer WARF risers? They generally have a little weight added to the bottom-end during the conversion process.

-Grant

-Grant


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

"Stacking" is subjective. So plenty of people have shorter bows and are happy with them. But do they stack compared to longer bows? I'll bet that if you compare draw force curves (a graph of a specific bow weight across different draw lengths) of many of those bows that "don't stack" do exhibit up tick in draw force at and near full draw length.


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## LongStick64 (Aug 29, 2009)

The question for comes down to what I'm using the bow for. A 68" long recurve is really a smooth bow but my hunting shots seldom exceed 20 yards so my 60" recurve is more than smooth enough to get it done at that distance.


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