# Broad heads hitting right



## Peanuts (Mar 31, 2006)

Getting ready for the season. nice groups with field points(30 yds). Screwed on a set of G5 strikers I use for practice and they group slightly right. I screwed on my hunting tip (Slick Trick wicked Trick 100's) and they are hitting 8" right. I put my practice 3 blades back on and and everything is back to normal. Are my slick tricks planing due to the oversize bleeder blade? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks


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## The Phantom (Aug 13, 2007)

Bow isn't tuned.
Move rest "slightly" to the right.


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## Peanuts (Mar 31, 2006)

First, My field points and 3 blade broadheads were shooting within 1.5 inches of each other. When I switched to 4 blade is when the real issue started (8 inches to the right. I shoot left handed shouldn't the rest be moved to the left?


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## The Phantom (Aug 13, 2007)

I'm not sure about righty vs lefty, but I always chase the BH and get the desired results.
Try it. If it gets worse, (the gap), go the other way. 
The BH will probably miss more to the right, but will be closer to the FP than before.


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## Peanuts (Mar 31, 2006)

ok thanks I'll give it a try this weekend


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## raleigh111 (Sep 24, 2018)

Move rest to right and adjust sight as needed. I have explained why in other posts. You will start hitting more right so adjust sight but your field tips and broads will start to group closer to each other. The more blades you have the more air it will catch and the more you will notice your bow is not tuned. Same goes for the size of the blades. When you have feathers on the front of your arrow (blades) your rear blazers cant correct for the arrow coming out of the bow cocked. The arrow tip in your case is to far left and when you shoot the tip is trying to get in front of string and going right. So you either move rest right or string left.


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## Peanuts (Mar 31, 2006)

Should I reverse this (move rest left) because I shoot left handed? Currently my broadheads are about 10" right of my field points. My plan is to reset my center shot and get my field points grouping, then start my broadhead tuning all over again.


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## SlickNickel (Jul 14, 2014)

Take a look at this

https://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2308879


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## raleigh111 (Sep 24, 2018)

Peanuts said:


> Should I reverse this (move rest left) because I shoot left handed? Currently my broadheads are about 10" right of my field points. My plan is to reset my center shot and get my field points grouping, then start my broadhead tuning all over again.


Does not matter left or right. 

Nice wright up slickNickel!

Nice to see someone who dont just reply for the sake of a reply. I have gone away from paper tuning more so in the last couple years. I still use it to nock tune and get all my arrows close then i go out and shoot because i am tuning the bow to me and my imperfections. My bow cant kill a deer without me. My method is adjust rest to match field tips to broad in the correct direction as you stated in your wright up ( spot on btw) for left and right tears out to 70 yards or so (Starting at 20) then adjust sight at 3 yards for center shot or what ever you want to call it.

It really is not the complicated once you get the idea of the weight of the tip trying to get in front of the power path of the string. This is achievable by minor rest adjustments if you get it real close on paper. I always start out with the arrow at factory center shot and adjust cams and or shim to get close on paper and when i broad head tune i usually can get it spot on with minor rest adjustments and if i end up .100 one way or another I am fine with that for left and right. By getting close on paper and leaving center shot at or close to factory you leave yourself some room to play with rest. 

Peanuts Right tear on paper or broad head hitting left move rest left! It is a fact!
Left tear on paper or broad head hitting right move rest right! It is a fact!

I copied this from one of my older posts


Draw a straight line in your mind from your string to your rest at full draw because the riser moves.. Now draw a straight line along your riser. Your arrow is actually pointing to the left...
rest to string \i the bow is the i and the string to rest is\
on paper this is a left tear because the point is moving to the right trying to get in front of the string!!! as soon as you shoot the arrow it does this /i because the weight of the tip is trying to move to the right to get in the power path of the string. 
When you shoot through paper it shows the opposite of how it is cocked in the bow and people cant seem to grasp that me included for long time.

This is why you move rest to right to get it more like this ii


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## Peanuts (Mar 31, 2006)

Great info everyone. I started from scratch this evening, and reset center shot, aligned my sight and started shooting field points at 20 yds. Got them shooting dead on but ran out of light. Tomorrow I plan on verifying my field points, then switch to broad heads (Slick Trick Wicked Trick 100's) and follow the suggestions given and see how things turn out. Results will follow. Thanks for all the help.


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## Peanuts (Mar 31, 2006)

Update: I verified my field points were dead on at 20yds. Moved to 15yds and shot first my field points, then shot my broadheads (100gr Slick Trick wicked Tricks). Broadheads were hitting right of the field points. Started pushing my rest to the right, following the broadheads and got broadheads and field points within 2" of each other. I moved back to 25yds and my broadheads shoot 8" right of field points. Moved back to 15yds and everything seems ok. Just for the hell of it, I switched from slick tricks to 100gr wacem 3 blade broadheads and shot at 25yds and the arrows are hitting dead center. I may have cured my problem. More testing tomorrow after work.


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## raleigh111 (Sep 24, 2018)

Shoot broad head first then field point unless you dont like your arrows?

You are masking the problem with different broad heads. The vanes are able to correct on the 100gr wacem. Don't settle, keep moving rest right. You may see the problem come back as you move farther back with the 100gr wacem and you may not? If you dont shoot past 25 then sure you are okay but I am kinda anal and hunt fields and take longer shots. 

Other things to consider if you cant get it is your grip on the bow? Are you tq it?

Try this 

Put the slick tricks back on

take one broad head one field tip 

Shoot broad head at 25-30 then filed tip. broad head right move rest right

go to 3 yards and shoot field tip adjust sight to hit bullseye left and right. 

Shoot broad head at 25-30 then filed tip. broad head right move rest right.

Back to 3 yards shoot field tip and adjust sight

You get it, your moving rest at 20 plus yards and sight at 3 yards for center shot. Keeps you on target. 

Keep doing this and moving back past 30 to 40 to 50 if you get it at 25-30.

If you run out of room on rest you need to look at other things like grip and moving cams via yoke twisting or shims. Some times people run out of room on rest adjustment.

Also as you move back you may see broad head going low or high and then of course you need to adjust rest up or down as needed and start over at 20 with minor sight adjustments for up and down. The pin gap normal dont change so most people can move the whole housing depending on sight. 

It is usually a 3-5 session project for me as you start to get tired and take a break. I will do this until i get them as spot on as i can out to 70 yards.

If you get it with the slick tricks i bet the 100gr wacem will be spot on also.

I just shot a nice buck @ 66-68 yards with my fixed blade muzzy 2 nights ago. Check it out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWOG8gMJiz4

The bow i used in that shot I broad head tuned in 3 sessions just like above out to 80 yards the day before i took that shot. 

With all this said you need proper spined arrow always nock tune IMHO for best results.

Good Luck!


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## crashedsystem (May 26, 2017)

yep, move the rest slightly in the direction you want your broad head to hit ... will bring it closer or onto your field points. after they group you may need to move sight pins again


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## Kuminatcha (Apr 15, 2006)

I’m confused here. Seems if I remember correctly you’re supposed to move your broadheads to your field points. In other words if your broad heads are left of field points move rest to the right. Let me know if my memory is as bad as my wife says it is.


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## raleigh111 (Sep 24, 2018)

Kuminatcha said:


> I’m confused here. Seems if I remember correctly you’re supposed to move your broadheads to your field points. In other words if your broad heads are left of field points move rest to the right. Let me know if my memory is as bad as my wife says it is.


If you are only rest tuning then here you go.

Broadhead hitting left is a right paper tear. Fix by moving rest left. 
Broadhead hitting right is left paper tear. Fix by moving rest right.

For right and left move field tips to broadheads.

Broadhead hitting high is low paper tear. Fix by moving rest down.
Broadhead hitting low is a high paper tear, Fix by moving rest up.

For up and down move broadheads to field tips. 
.


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

Kuminatcha said:


> I’m confused here. Seems if I remember correctly you’re supposed to move your broadheads to your field points. In other words if your broad heads are left of field points move rest to the right. Let me know if my memory is as bad as my wife says it is.


If you were shooting fingers, you would do that. When shooting a past centershot compound bow with a mechanical release aid, you move the rest towards the broadheads. You're confused because there are a lot of people that misunderstand the Easton tuning guide and think that the broadhead tuning section is for compound release shooters when it's actually only written for finger shooters.


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