# Stabilizer setups



## Caden (Jun 14, 2018)

How do you setup your sidebar and what is everyone's list on setting up stabilizers to hold steady.


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## ShastaRN (Apr 23, 2017)

Also interested. Thanks


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## sevanseriesta (Jul 7, 2017)

I shoot with a v bar setup on both my recurve and compound. My compound setup is 6oz on the front of a 35” bar. My left side bar has 11oz and my right is at 12oz.

I have extremely limited movement and don’t drop from the middle, but I contribute that mostly from my recurve work.

My recurve is 4oz on 33” front bar and 4oz on each side of the back bars.


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## sevanseriesta (Jul 7, 2017)

Holding steady is more then just stabilizers, it is so much apart of your form. All though stabilizers can help they also can hide issues that will pop up later, or even make your current issues worse.


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## huteson2us2 (Jun 22, 2005)

I have 3 different long bars and 3 different side bars because my bows have different A to A length and the same set of bars do not work on every bow. The length of the bow and the weight of the bow differs between models. So how can a set of stabs work for two different people using two different bows. It takes work to get a set of stabilizers balance right. 

My method of balancing the stabs are different from others on AT. I want enough front weight to hold steady on the spot and not move after the arrow is released. Too light and the bow will bounce at 60+ yards. Too heavy and the bow will move during release. The longer the stab, the less weight is needed to get the same results.

The grips today are not made for the human hand, so a side bar is a must to straighten bow. I never had to use a side bar until around 2003. The human hand, when held out will tilt to the right if right handed. The grips on the bows today are straight in line with the bow. Easier and cheaper to mill. So I need enough weight on the side bar to have the bow come up straight when drawn and not too much weight to move the bow to the left during release. Whatever your method is, it won't end up the same length stabs and weight as another. If everyone was 5'10" tall using a 40" bow weighing 3.8 lbs and pulling #60, then everyone can use the same weight and stabilizer.


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## Jo-Brook (Jun 24, 2016)

Any Good vids on you tube explaining ?


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## TLSpeed (Jun 21, 2019)

Some good info here. Following!


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Start out with no weights on and see how bow reacts at the shot. Ball park start is 1 oz on front and 3 oz on back. None of us the same.

Good formula to gauge to is that of Griv - George Ryals 

Formula is as follows is still just a in the Ball Park…..

"length of front bar times weight on front bar = "X"

Then:
"X" divided by length of back bar = weight on back bar.

example:
27" Front bar length times weight of 4 ounces = 108
108 / 12" rear bar length = 9 ounces for the rear bar.

You then take the 9 ounces, put it on the rear bar. If you do a true V bar, you split the weights between the two bars. If you do a side bar, you do it on the solo side bar.

You then add or remove weight on the rear bar only. Aim for the X. Remove or add weight until your side to side "misses" are down to a nice, ragged oval that basically kills the X."

My setup; Quick disconnects included; 31.25" front with 7 ounces. Left 14.5" back bar with 10 ounces. Right 14.5" back bar with 4 ounces. Nicely balanced for left/right and slight tip forward.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Start out with no weights on and see how bow reacts at the shot. Ball park start is 1 oz on front and 3 oz on back. None of us the same.

Good formula to gauge to is that of Griv - George Ryals 

Formula is as follows is still just a in the Ball Park…..

"length of front bar times weight on front bar = "X"

Then:
"X" divided by length of back bar = weight on back bar.

example:
27" Front bar length times weight of 4 ounces = 108
108 / 12" rear bar length = 9 ounces for the rear bar.

You then take the 9 ounces, put it on the rear bar. If you do a true V bar, you split the weights between the two bars. If you do a side bar, you do it on the solo side bar.

You then add or remove weight on the rear bar only. Aim for the X. Remove or add weight until your side to side "misses" are down to a nice, ragged oval that basically kills the X."

My setup; Quick disconnects included; 31.25" front with 7 ounces. Left 14.5" back bar with 10 ounces. Right 14.5" back bar with 4 ounces. Nicely balanced for left/right and slight tip forward.


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## RCR_III (Mar 19, 2011)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eADJF5YdqLw&t=34s

Here's my set up routine for stabilizers based on natural balance of the riser and how you shoot your own shot.


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## tristansdeleon (Feb 1, 2019)

my setup is a 30'' beestinger premiere plus with 3 oz on front and a 12'' with 12 oz on back. generally you should run a 1:3 or 1:4 ratio with your bars


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## richstang75 (Sep 29, 2009)

tristansdeleon said:


> my setup is a 30'' beestinger premiere plus with 3 oz on front and a 12'' with 12 oz on back. generally you should run a 1:3 or 1:4 ratio with your bars


How much let off are you shooting with that setup?


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## NapaPaul (Jun 1, 2017)

SonnyThomas said:


> Start out with no weights on and see how bow reacts at the shot. Ball park start is 1 oz on front and 3 oz on back. None of us the same.
> 
> Good formula to gauge to is that of Griv - George Ryals
> 
> ...



Hi Sonny, I've been searching AT for an understanding of stabilizers. You painted a clear picture. I have a question for you regarding quick disconnects. Does the bar have a different end on it so it can couple. I ask because what I've seen so far is the bars screw in. thanks


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## Stu W (Jun 18, 2014)

Here's an example of how one looks ... the end fitting comes with the quick disconnect unit of which there are many versions.


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## Stu W (Jun 18, 2014)

Here's another version...


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## NapaPaul (Jun 1, 2017)

"A picture is worth a thousand word" Very much appreciated, thanks


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## *SWITCH (Nov 27, 2007)

Caden said:


> How do you setup your sidebar and what is everyone's list on setting up stabilizers to hold steady.


At the moment i'm liking a heavy sidebar with the weights around level with the cam or just above. Its angled out just enough to centre my bubble naturally at full draw. about 25 degrees. This gives a good low centre of gravity and provides a really steady hold for me even at 90m.

It also controls the bow very well, ie any unwanted kick on release.

Its giving me the same benefit as a lot of weight on the front rod without the fatigue or wand like movement you can sometimes get with a heavy front rod.

30" front + 1" damper with 6oz, 10" side with 26oz. so just over a 4 to 1 ratio.

i adjust side rod small amounts at a time to fine tune my groups at 90m. If it works at 90m any shorter distance will work just as well or better.


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## Stu W (Jun 18, 2014)

*SWITCH said:


> At the moment i'm liking a heavy sidebar with the weights around level with the cam or just above. Its angled out just enough to centre my bubble naturally at full draw. about 25 degrees. This gives a good low centre of gravity and provides a really steady hold for me even at 90m.
> 
> It also controls the bow very well, ie any unwanted kick on release.
> 
> ...



I think this is good advice. I use the same concept. Single sidebar low and tight in. Works well for me and allows me to keep the overall weight of the bow down. The only exceptions are my shoot-through-riser bows where I use V bar set ups but even then I keep both V the bars angled low.

Regards,
Stu


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## miscexpense (Feb 7, 2018)

great info. Thanks!!


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## [email protected] (Aug 28, 2019)

It's interesting that if you look at all the pros you see many different set ups.
it's a trial and error process to get right. Takes alot of time to experiment to get things right. You'll spend alot of time changing set ups to get it right.
Don't be afraid to try different set ups. It's what works for you that counts.


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## *SWITCH (Nov 27, 2007)

Generally I've found a lower centre of gravity is favourable for holding steadier. My bow just settles quicker and locks down where I want it better and with less float. I also get a stronger and more consistent push/pull feel at full draw. Bow doesn't seem to torque/kick as much on release either.

It didn't take much, I replaced the lower brass riser damper with a heavier tungsten one, and clicked side rod down a few notches.


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## pnavarrocba (Sep 10, 2019)

Great!!


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## josh_gml (Jun 21, 2019)

I did stick to that classic Korean Style setup. So 30" front and 12" in the back, about 40-45° on a straight vbar.

For weight i did stick to the formula that was mentioned above.


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## ehainey (May 30, 2018)

I set up my bow so that it is perfectly balanced in my hand - front and back, left and right. The formula mentioned above is a great start, but in the end, it's what feels best for you. For example, I'm short so I only have a 27" front bar, but I have 4 oz on it. I have a v-bar in back, and the total weight is 3 + 3 = 6oz. That doesn't fit the formula, but it works perfectly for me and my bow. I played around with weights until the bow was neither too light nor too heavy, and the balance was right for me. I'm sure that those weights will change when (if) I buy a different bow that has a different weight and center of gravity. Besides, it's actually quite fun to experiment.


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## k8dfi (Apr 30, 2017)

[email protected] said:


> It's interesting that if you look at all the pros you see many different set ups.
> it's a trial and error process to get right. Takes alot of time to experiment to get things right. You'll spend alot of time changing set ups to get it right.
> Don't be afraid to try different set ups. It's what works for you that counts.


This is why some of us will never get it right. Having the funds to buy all of the variations of lengths, weights, and adapters until you get it right just isn't possible. We buy a basic setup and hope we are close.


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## Bow Rider (Jan 16, 2015)

I have doinker fatties with fender washers as weights. Kind of a hillbilly set up, but it works. I've run the same bars and weights on a few bows. All I've ever done beyond that is play with the angle of the back bar to get it to balance well. Each bow liked a different angle.


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## JMASavage (Feb 4, 2008)

I know this is an old thread but this link might help someone new to setting up a bow with with a long stabilizer and side bar https://www.archerylearningcenter.com/blog/stabilizers


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## Mahly (Dec 18, 2002)

I don’t have use for any formulas for setting them up. Most all of my bows need a different setup anyway.
I know what they feel like when they are getting close, and will fine tune by changing the angles on the side bars.


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## xforce pse (Mar 9, 2011)

Tagged


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## Tipe (May 19, 2018)

This interesting thread, need to follow..


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## xforce pse (Mar 9, 2011)

Taged


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## Kodakkid (Feb 24, 2019)

Interesting


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## Tipe (May 19, 2018)

I had 30" front 12" back in my Mathews Halon X Comp. Ratio was pretty much 1-4, if I remember right something 1-3.5
Can't remember those weights but it balanced pretty nice like that.

When I bought Reckoning 35" I it was quite different ball game.
One back stabilizer it came directly of even little right and close to strings.
Needed to get W-bar back there and another 12" stab.
Todays setting is like this: 
Front 295g - 10.4oz
Left rear 323g - 11.4oz
Right rear 297g - 10.5oz

I raised those weights a bit for indoors. 3D setting is bit lighter.
Total 6oz lighter. We'll see if I will go back for that later...

So ratio now is closer 1 to 2.
Right from beginning I noticed that Reckoning likes more front heavy stabilisation.

That was earlier even behind but I changed it just yesterday. So this is "living thing" right now.
Searching for right weights for me to shoot 150-160 arrows at row..

I do shoot a little see how it scores with that change and return back or keep it.
Seems that it balances bubble easier with that unbalanced rear's. 
But is it too good balanced now.. so it also moves easier, we'll see. 
I think little bit of leaning into hand is good to get after all more balanced bow. 

I put all these technical changes to Artemis-program what I use to keep tracking my training and scores.
That way I can follow how they influence my scoring when I make changes in my equipment or technique.

And yes... that picture about setting.
There has been slight changes lately, scope closer and changed from pin to dot.
Stab's are bit wider and more vertical than in this picture
Scope change I did so I can get bit bigger aperture for my peep... some dark ranges and bit more light needed:


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## Oldemann (Feb 20, 2019)

QUOTE=Jo-Brook;1110401655]Any Good vids on you tube explaining ?[/QUOTE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2kMSxXtyxk


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## 1Warthog (Oct 15, 2008)

I Still see several top shooters using two side stablizers


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