# Samick Sage weight and arrow advice for a newbie



## thothtp (Jul 30, 2012)

So as per my last thread, I am brand new to archery. Just bought a used 45 pound Martin Savannah that was such a heck of a deal that I couldn't pass it up, but before I get in to shooting that I am ordering a Samick Sage to learn proper form. So I am shopping for my Sage right now, and trying to figure out what to order on draw weight and arrow. I am trying to decide between 25 and 30 pounds. I want my wife to be able to shoot it easily, as she will likely get a decent amount of use from it as well, so I was thinking 25 pound. She is pretty slight and 5'3". I'd also like friends to be able to try it, and they range from 5'1" to 6' and everything in between. I figure plinking in the backyard with friends would be a fun activity.

So then I was looking at arrows, I was thinking these http://www.3riversarchery.com/Product.asp?show=rate&c=3&s=195&p=230&i=6781X#pr-header-6781X for the durability. Problem is on the chart with a 28 inch arrow length on a 25 pound bow, they suggest a 600 spine and 175 tip, which they don't even sell in that size. at 30 pounds, they suggest a 125, much more typical.

Should I go with 25 pound bow and 600 spine 145 weight tips (heaviest they sell in that size) or should I go with the 30 pound 600 spine 125? I want to make sure its really easy for my wife to shoot, but don't want it to be so noodley that she wants something stronger, and I want to make sure the arrows work.

Also, I know a 28" arrow is good for me, but is there a major downside to having your arrow be too long? I know my wife will have a shorter draw length, so I want to make sure it works for her too. If there is no major downside I might even go up to 29" to make sure some of my bigger friends can try it.

Thanks again for the help, you guys are awesome! It's always a huge help to someone new to have a resource like this. What did we do before internet forums?


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

t - 

We used to read books and actually shoot with people who knew what they were doing before the Internet. 
We also generally shot better as a whole and were more civil, but I digress.

Given the range of people using that bow, you really have to go for the least common denominator , ie, the lightest weight. So go with the 25# bow, with the understanding that (happily) the smaller shooters will be drawing less weight. 

A 29" 600 spine arrow /w 100 grs up front works well in the 45 - 50# range. Might not be your best choice. 

Heavier heads will weaken the spine, but the extra weight will also slow down the arrow.

There's really no disadvantage to longer than need arrows at your current level of shooting and given the range of people using the stuff, may be a necessity.

Later on if you get more seriously into it, the longer arrows can be a plus (for tuning and sighting) or a minus (due to the extra weight).
I keep my arrows as short as possible. 

The durability of carbon arrows relative to aluminum is over rated. IMHO. Depends on what you hit and how. 

Viper1 out.


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## thothtp (Jul 30, 2012)

Viper1 said:


> t -
> 
> We used to read books and actually shoot with people who knew what they were doing before the Internet.
> We also generally shot better as a whole and were more civil, but I digress.
> ...


I already bought your book  Haven't received it yet though, but I can't wait to read it. Its the specifics (what specs for this specific bow/situation would you recommend, what specific product from what retailer, ect ect) where it is so helpful to have a resource like this. Agree on the civility though, although its been great here so far 


So what would you guys suggest specifically for arrow specs on a 25#? I like the 25# option best I think, just need to have arrows that will work. I'd be fine with aluminum too, was just thinking with new people shooting (and missing) durability is key.


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## Old Chuck (May 20, 2012)

I am a new guy as well and recently got a Samick Sage in 35# due to developing correct form. I too, was not sure what arrows and went with 3 Rivers Archery and their traditional arrows in 600 due the help I got when I was ordering. They also suggested a 28" even though my draw is 26. I would give their traditional section a call just to see what they suggest with that bow weight. Again, I am sure more folks with far more experience will answer.


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## UrbanDeerSlayer (Feb 10, 2012)

thothtp said:


> So as per my last thread, I am brand new to archery. Just bought a used 45 pound Martin Savannah that was such a heck of a deal that I couldn't pass it up, but before I get in to shooting that I am ordering a Samick Sage to learn proper form. So I am shopping for my Sage right now, and trying to figure out what to order on draw weight and arrow. I am trying to decide between 25 and 30 pounds. I want my wife to be able to shoot it easily, as she will likely get a decent amount of use from it as well, so I was thinking 25 pound. She is pretty slight and 5'3". I'd also like friends to be able to try it, and they range from 5'1" to 6' and everything in between. I figure plinking in the backyard with friends would be a fun activity.
> 
> So then I was looking at arrows, I was thinking these http://www.3riversarchery.com/Product.asp?show=rate&c=3&s=195&p=230&i=6781X#pr-header-6781X for the durability. Problem is on the chart with a 28 inch arrow length on a 25 pound bow, they suggest a 600 spine and 175 tip, which they don't even sell in that size. at 30 pounds, they suggest a 125, much more typical.
> 
> ...


I've been on this same exact road. I reccomend the Samick Polaris instead of the Sage. It's a liitle cheaper and easier for the women. I have the 62" polaris with 23# limbs. It's a little hard for my 11 yo to pull (I'm getting lighter limbs), it's about right for my wife but maybe a little heavy. If I were to do it again, I'd get 20#'s for the women, and for yourself 25 to 30#. I think an extra set of limbs is under $50. If you want you could get the Sage riser, which can use both Sage and Polaris Limbs. 

Now for arrows, I spent alot of time and some cash figuring out what shoots nice out of this light setup. Get the Easton Jazz or Blues 1716's in full length (should be 29"). Get the inserts so you can screw in different weight field tips. You should get good flight with 75g to 100g tips, with a draw length up to 28". These are youth shafts but they fly really well out of this setup, and are inexpensive. Make sure you get 29" or longer. Also make sure you get the inserts and the right type of nocks. That's if you are building the arrows yourself. If you are getting them already fletched and ready to go just make sure they are at least 29" long and have screw in inserts. Then get some points weighted 75g to 100g and experiment to see what flies best.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

t - 

For a 25# bow: 
If you're draw length is around 28", then start with a full length 1616 with glue in target points/NIBBs. Feather size/shape really isn't going to matter. 

However, since a number of people will be using this, perfect tuning will be impossible for every one. In that case, any durable (fletched) arrow that even appears to fly well will suffice. 

A Bear Weather or J-2 type rest holds up well on "club" bows.

Lancaster / Tradtech Archery is a good source for supplies. If you have questions, just make sure you're talking to a stickbow guy. John Wert is top drawer. 

Viper1 out.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

Personally I like to keep arrow weight in the 8-9gpp range, which is difficult with aluminum arrows out of light bows.

Heavier is fine for lending to guests who are likely to just shoot at close range. But if you want to use the bow at longer range then its worth getting your own arrows which are lighter and tuned to you.

A 600 spine carbon like the GT ultralight entrada is fairly light, but its going to require at least 150gr upfront to get it to tune. A better option would be a Carbon Impact Super Club arrow. They are pretty cheap and the 20/30 spine is .810 the 15/25 is .900 they will tune with a lot less point weight. I've also found them very durable to collisions, although you can break them if you yank on them sideways (no where near as bad as a light aluminum!).
They do come with vanes though, so you may need to shoot with a rest or refletch them.

-Grant


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