# XForce HF6 Cam timing



## Rob D (Dec 26, 2009)

Here a youtube video of creep tuning ,which will show you how to tune your cams. best way I have found. might help, its worth a try.Worked great with my two bows. Good Luck http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P41jnT_6OVI


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## Rob D (Dec 26, 2009)

Ohh forgot that it will only work with dual cams. If I remember correctly your bow is single cam. Sorry


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## BWatson (Nov 2, 2007)

Thanks. I've never tried creep tuning before. I'll give this a shot. Problem is with this bow (at least the way it is setup now) there is very little creep before it wants to roll the cam over. It is a hybrid cam so I would imagine this technique would work to some extent.


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## APnTX (Jun 23, 2008)

Pic #4 is getting really close. That is where you want the top cable to land when the bottom cable is just touching the draw stop. What will happen from there is that as the rubber compresses on the draw stop at the bottom, the top cable will "close the gap" in the flat of the upper cam. The wall will be 100% solid and your valley will be extremely small. I wouldn't even try to creep tune it because the valley will be so small you might have an unintentional launch. The speed does sound a bit slow. Mine is set up at 28"/70#/404gr and shooting around 302fps. I have chrono'd a 345gr arrow at 312-315fps at the same DL/DW. Good luck with it.


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## BWatson (Nov 2, 2007)

Ok thanks. So it is supposed to completly close the gap between the cam groove and the cable at the very tip of the module? I'll take a twist or two out if the control cable and give it another shot. 
Thanks again.


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## APnTX (Jun 23, 2008)

It's supposed to "just" close the gap. You're all the way into the drawstop at the same time the gap closes.


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## BWatson (Nov 2, 2007)

So I twisted and untwisted cables to get the cams in synch. Now my buss cable has at least 4 twists to every 1 twist in the control cable. The control cable barely has any twists in it and I don't want to untwist it anymore. Per spec the control cable should be 36.88" and the buss 34.13". It almost sounds like the cables lengths are switched.
Now there is noticeably more noise from the bow and definite hand shock. It was always quiet with zero hand shock before. I think I am going to put the stock cables back on. Very frustrated right now.


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## BWatson (Nov 2, 2007)

Let me add to that and say that now my drawlength is measuring 29" and my ATA is right at 33". I'm using #8 mod with drawstop in the 8 hole. String is on the "0" post too. This is supposed to give me a DL of 28" but ive always heard the xforce pulls a little long (typ 3/8"). I'm shooting for 28.5". Spec has ATA should be 33-1/8". 
So how do I shorten the drawlength without changing brace or ATA? I can put it on the "-" post but seems like I should be able to get down to 28.5" using the "0" post. Should I add more twists to the string? 
Thanks.


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## APnTX (Jun 23, 2008)

How's the draw weight?

The #8 mod will get you close to 29" DL on the "0" post. I switched to the #7 mod to get it closer to 28". Not the bow won't tune with the string on the "-" post, but you'll lose some of the efficiency in the cams...ie speed. Plus it looks funky because the cams are under-rotated.


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## BWatson (Nov 2, 2007)

It's always been low even before the new string/cables. Its always maxed out at 69. Right now I actually have it turned down to 64 since I've been shooting so much every night trying to get this right. Im getting sore. Yeah, twisting the string didn't help much. I put it on the "-" post and got it down to just over 28.5". Feels better on the draw but even my wife said it sounded loud. I don't think I can believe my chrono. One shot will be 289 and the next 315, the next 322, next 291 etc. I did take the control cable off and measured it against the stock cable and if it's not the same it is too close for me to tell.


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## jrip (May 19, 2008)

Take pics of the string side of the cams at brace height so we can see the timing marks and post them.


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## jrip (May 19, 2008)

BWatson said:


> Let me add to that and say that now my drawlength is measuring 29" and my ATA is right at 33". I'm using #8 mod with drawstop in the 8 hole. String is on the "0" post too. This is supposed to give me a DL of 28" but ive always heard the xforce pulls a little long (typ 3/8"). I'm shooting for 28.5". Spec has ATA should be 33-1/8".
> So how do I shorten the drawlength without changing brace or ATA? I can put it on the "-" post but seems like I should be able to get down to 28.5" using the "0" post. Should I add more twists to the string?
> Thanks.


That means your string/cable lengths are off. I just set mine to specs and put the string on the (+) post and it ended up at 28 3/4" AMO with the #8 mods.


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## BWatson (Nov 2, 2007)

APnTX - According to the PSE tuning chart a #8 mod on a 6" BH will get me to 28" DL. On a 7" BH bow the #8 mod will give 29". Is yours a 6 or 7"?

Jrip - I'm using my phone right now since AT is blocked here at work (damn the man!) so I can't post the pics. The timing marks were both dead in line on the cables when I had it set on the "0" post. I moved it to the "-" post and now the marks are on the riser-side of the cables and look to be equal distance. My tiller is even. ATA is dead nuts 33" which is 1/8" short - right? Will that matter much? BH is 5-7/8" which equals the tuning chart. To get a paper or broadhead tune I had to set the nock 1/2" high. Looked goofy but shot well. Just noticed the bow was way too loud. 
I'm going to try to broadhead tune and sight it in tonight with it set on the "-" post and see how it does. 
If that doesn't work I think I will pull the string/cables off and put them on my drawboard and set them to spec and reinstall. Basically start over and see if I screwed something up on the initial install or if it is the new string. 
Thanks.


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## BWatson (Nov 2, 2007)

Update. With the string on the "-" post and twisting cables and strings to match pic #4 above with a 28.5" DL the bow is shooting much better. Broadheads and FP are hitting together out to 40 yards. And my rest is set at perfect centershot and nock is slightly high (1/8" at most). I've never been able to get this bow to shoot with nock this close to level before. . Hand shock is gone. Slight noise to the bow that I don't remember with my old setup but definitely quieter than a couple days ago. I could only get 68# with a 3/16" Allen wrench b/w limbs and riser. With a 415gr arrow it is only shooting 290fps. I could put more twists in the buss to get DW up but my ATA would be way below spec. It's already 1/8" short. 
Strange how changing the string from "0" to "-" made that much difference.


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## APnTX (Jun 23, 2008)

Mine is the HF6. But with the #8 module; from nock to the valley of the grip, +1.75" (AMO), I got 29". With the #7 mod, I got 28". I know that to tune my bow, it took a lot of tweaking. I know that some folks don't. I know I couldn't have gotten there with some help from here with all the problems I had with mine. A large percentage was the tech working on the bow....ME! Finally got it shooting for me. Glad you got (or are getting) there. Enjoy it!


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