# Weight distribution/foot positioning



## XForce Girl (Feb 14, 2008)

Your weight should be even in both legs with the majority of your weight on the balls of your feet. (60%)
Your back should be straight and your hips tucked, (pretend to push the small of your back against a wall) Closing the ribcage.
The bow arm should be 99% extended producing a strong and stable bone to bone contact from your wrist to your shoulder.

Draw the bow with your back (like pushing your shouylder blades together and hold the bow at full draw with these muscles.

By the way nice picture of your bow BUT a head to toe picture of you atually shooting it would be much more helpful.


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## derfarhar333 (Apr 16, 2013)

Thanks x. I'll try to get a pic tomorrow evening. I'm also wondering if the guys at the bow shop didn't measure me short on my draw length... Will a pic of shooting for help determine that too? I ask because I thought the chill had 80 or 85% letoff. It feels more like 0% to me. My Rytera required little effort to hold at full draw. Thanks again.

Derek


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

There are a number of reasons for the diving pin:

1. Form... commonly a high/weak bow shoulder.
2. Draw too long....often a contributor to #1.
3. Too much mass weight....also commonly contributes to leaning back and #1.
4. Tiller, nock height, peep height
5. Shot sequence.... development of the shot prior to stopping the pin on the spot.
6. Weak anchor.
7. Loss of back tension as you settle into full draw
8. Tilting head forward to get nose on the string with short bows
9. Trying to hold your bow UP primarily with your bow arm - you should use your bow arm to hold it away from you. Hold it up with your back.
10. High release shoulder.

As you might guess, this is a pretty common problem. However, it seems to be more of a problem since the short ATA bows became so popular. Probably something to do with archers tilting their head forward to see through peeps that are too low.

The shop can only get close when using measurements to calculate draw length. There is a lot more that goes into it.

Marcie is right about posture and weight distribution. And she is right about being able to help you more if you post a photo. Be sure the photo is of you aiming at a target that is at shoulder height so that the arrow is level.

Hope this helps,
Allen


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## derfarhar333 (Apr 16, 2013)

Alright here's a pic. I'm inconsistent for starters but that comes from not being able to tell the proper form from the improper.


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## derfarhar333 (Apr 16, 2013)

Just looking myself my bow arm isn't straight. What makes me think my draw is too short is that I can't straighten my bow arm out without rolling my right shoulder forward and that messes up my anchor points and I have to lean my head forward. But I don't know... just guessing... any input is appreciated.


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## Moebow (Jul 8, 2010)

"that messes up my anchor points" Your anchor points should be a RESULT of your draw, NOT a target for the draw. 

Try this: Take another picture with your bow arm straight while letting your release hand move forward on your face and let's see what we get. Right now, things I would suggest you work on are relax your bow hand to reduce tension in the bow forearm, straighten the bow arm to elbow straight but not locked and roll your elbow towards the camera compared to what you have in the picture now, let your shoulders (both) relax down (they are rolled up quite a bit), lower your release hand position and let it move forward ( index knuckle in the pocket under your ear lobe, not half way up the ear).

This will feel strange for a while, but this will be the best way (IMO) to determine your draw length setting. With that short ATA bow, you may NOT be able to get the nose on the string -- it is more important to keep your head centered and jaw line level, rather than trying to achieve artificial "touch points."


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## Moebow (Jul 8, 2010)

PS. You started this post with questions about weight distribution. In your picture it appears that you have most of your weight on your left leg. Get that weight equal between both legs.


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## derfarhar333 (Apr 16, 2013)

Thanks for the tips Moe. I'll give that a try this weekend. My shoulders are high! I didn't even notice.


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## Moebow (Jul 8, 2010)

Let us know what you find.

Arne


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## derfarhar333 (Apr 16, 2013)

Moe,
I tried the tips you recommended and did indeed notice a difference. My back and shoulders didn't fatigue like they did before. I suspect from having my shoulders rolled so high like you noted. Nocking my knuckle under my earlobe, I also noticed a difference. Doing all the things you suggested, I felt much less tense in my back and shoulders. I did note 1 thing though and that is that I had to dip my significantly to see through my peep. I think that is the reason for rolling my shoulders and having my release hand so high on my ear. I need to get it moved up a bit and try things from there I think. Thanks again Moe!


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## derfarhar333 (Apr 16, 2013)

I just noticed that aread was spot on after scrolling back up... lol I think I can suffice to say that my low peep may be the culprit here...


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## Moebow (Jul 8, 2010)

Glad the ideas are working out for you, YES!! You do not move to fit the bow, you adjust the bow to fit you! Raise the peep!! Try this, close your eyes and draw to anchor, then open your eyes, the peep should be exactly in front of your eye. You should not have to move to see through it.


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## derfarhar333 (Apr 16, 2013)

Another update here. I went to a different bow shop Saturday. I told them my peep needed moved and that I didn't think my draw was right. They measured me and sure enough I was an inch short. They're putting me some 28" rockmods on this week and I'm gonna go Saturday to pick her up and see if the peep still needs adjusted.


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