# Nock Travel?



## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

Can you change a bow's nock travel by adjusting the tiller of the bow? If so....how do I move my nock position down and still maintain good bareshaft flight?

I have a 2015 Obsession Phoenix and my nock height/bottom of my top D loop knot is at 7/16" above square using VAP 350 arrows. It just seems like it should or could be lower but I'm getting great bareshaft flight.

Thanks,

Ray


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## huteson2us2 (Jun 22, 2005)

I used to tiller tune. You would turn the bolt on one limb at a time untill the bow seemed to hold the best. One of the results of tiller tuning is that the nock point had to be changed with every turn of the bolt.

I believe turning the top limb bolt tighter lowered the nocking point, but it has been over ten years since I have done this and might have it bakwards.

So tighten the top limb bolt 1/2 turn (after marking the bolt with a marker pen so that you can move the bolt back to original position). If the arrow hits a little higher at 20 yards, the nocking point has moved down. But moving the nocking point will de-tune the bow and that is why I had to move the nocking point each time I tighten the bolt. Hope this helps.


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

huteson2us2 said:


> I used to tiller tune. You would turn the bolt on one limb at a time untill the bow seemed to hold the best. One of the results of tiller tuning is that the nock point had to be changed with every turn of the bolt.
> 
> I believe turning the top limb bolt tighter lowered the nocking point, but it has been over ten years since I have done this and might have it bakwards.
> 
> So tighten the top limb bolt 1/2 turn (after marking the bolt with a marker pen so that you can move the bolt back to original position). If the arrow hits a little higher at 20 yards, the nocking point has moved down. But moving the nocking point will de-tune the bow and that is why I had to move the nocking point each time I tighten the bolt. Hope this helps.


Thanks! :thumbs_up


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## RCR_III (Mar 19, 2011)

Once you move the nocking point, move the arrow rest to match.


BLACK WOLF said:


> Can you change a bow's nock travel by adjusting the tiller of the bow? If so....how do I move my nock position down and still maintain good bareshaft flight?
> 
> I have a 2015 Obsession Phoenix and my nock height/bottom of my top D loop knot is at 7/16" above square using VAP 350 arrows. It just seems like it should or could be lower but I'm getting great bareshaft flight.
> 
> ...


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

Follow up:

Here's the crazy thing about compound bows I'm beginning to understand. Initially, I was able to get my bow to shoot bareshafts to accurately shoot with my fletched arrows while having a higher than normal nock point, having my rest not completely center shot and having the rest hold the arrow slightly below the plunger hole while all being adjusted by eye and tuning. I was at an archery range this weekend and the shop owner offered to experiment a little with my bow after I showed him my bow and nock position. He said he has never tuned an Obsession before so he was curious to see what was involved with tuning them. I showed him how well the bareshaft shot with the fletched arrows while shooting at a 3 spot and while paper tuning. He basically said based on how well it's shooting I could just leave it or we could experiment a little bit....so he went ahead and readjusted everything so the arrow was perfectly center shot and the arrow was level/perpendicular to the string. He didn't shim the cams nor did he adjust the tiller and when I shot it...it basically produced the same results...maybe even a little better than where I originally had everything set. Kinda crazy how that is...but I definitely learned a few things about how to initially set a compound bow up from the beginning. What I learned was that I bought the bow used...and I tuned the bow to where the D loop originally was rather than starting from scratch. I still don't completely understand how I can get a good tune having the bow set up both ways...I am happier now that my arrow is more perpendicular to the string than what it was before. A little more piece of mind never hurts :wink:

Ray


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## huteson2us2 (Jun 22, 2005)

Something I forgot to mention. If you need to move your nocking point 1/16th inch or less, instead of fighting your D Loop or trying to guess on moving a rest that is not mico adjustable, simply tighten the limb to move nock. 1/4 turn on top limb equals 1/32" down on nocking point. 

Of course, if you have your limbs bottomed out, you cannot do this. Both of my 60# bows will go to 62# or 63# bottomed out. By loosening both limbs 1/2 turn, my bow is between 59# and 60# making my bow legal for FITA and every other type of tournament and giving me the option to slightly adjust my nocking point.


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## Luke Cool (Oct 16, 2015)

BLACK WOLF said:


> Can you change a bow's nock travel by adjusting the tiller of the bow? If so....how do I move my nock position down and still maintain good bareshaft flight?
> I have a 2015 Obsession Phoenix and my nock height/bottom of my top D loop knot is at 7/16" above square using VAP 350 arrows. It just seems like it should or could be lower but I'm getting great bareshaft flight.
> Thanks, Ray


Can you change a bow's nock position by adjusting the tiller of the bow?
Yes, but that's not the correct way to adjust the nock position. 
The tiller needs to be adjusted correctly to make the rest mount hole the vertical center of the bow. This is a foundation adjustment.
First adjust he tiller to be the same at the top and bottom of the bow. Then adjust the knock position.
Adjust the knock position by loosening it and moving it. If you need more info than that, go to this URL 
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=3392570&p=1084752641#post1084752641


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## Luke Cool (Oct 16, 2015)

*A compound bow has several foundation adjustments:*
The tiller needs to be the same at the top as it is at the bottom of the bow. This will make the rest mount hole the vertical center of the bow.
The cam timing needs to be correct on both cams so they will do the same thing to the string at the same time.
The cams need to be straight in line with the string. If not, they will shave or quickly wear the string. 
The cams need to be perpendicular, 90 degrees, to their axis. They shouldn’t wobble as they turn.
The vertical adjustment on the rest needs to center an arrow between the rest mount hole and a perpendicular line to the string. This will center the rest on the vertical center of the bow.
Adjust the string stop to barely touch the string.

I think I got them all. If I missed one, please enlighten me.


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