# Arrows for Samick Sage



## mez (Feb 22, 2010)

What is your draw length? 30 may be long but as long as they are spined correctly they should be fine. The ends of the arrows are tapered so you can't just cut them off and reglue. They should be fine to start with. What draw weight is the bow? If around 40# you should be able to shoot a couple dozen before getting tired.


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## Lynxo (Feb 9, 2012)

mez said:


> What is your draw length? 30 may be long but as long as they are spined correctly they should be fine. The ends of the arrows are tapered so you can't just cut them off and reglue. They should be fine to start with. What draw weight is the bow? If around 40# you should be able to shoot a couple dozen before getting tired.


strange, I replied yesterday but it did not post. 

You asked what is my draw length. I'm pretty sure it's 28". I thought all Samick Sages have a 28" Draw? 
The one have says 28" draw length, 62" bow length, 35 lbs. I was looking for 30lbs but they did not have them in stock.

Is the approx. rule of thumb, draw length minus 1-2" for arrow length? I'm kinda confused, I though you want it a little
longer for the tip to overhang. 

I bought the arrows through amazon, cajun archery, they are cedar port orford. around $60 with tax, lower priced I've seen
for online. Also, they only show 5/16" for arrow diameter. They don't mention spine/grain.

What grain should I look for and shaft dia.? 

Thanks


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## mez (Feb 22, 2010)

Recurve bows are rated for draw weight at 28". So if your bow is 35# draw weight that number is taken at 28", the bow will draw both longer and shorter than that. If drawing shorter then it won't be #35 and if drawing longer it will be over #35. A general rule is #2-#3 pounds per inch either way of 28 inches. The 28 is the number they use to designate draw weight, not to designate draw length. 

For arrow length on my recurve I have the shaft about an inch in front of the shelf. This is personal preference. Draw the bow and hold, have someone mark the arrow at the shelf and then add an inch for length to cut. You can cut yours if you like but you will need to taper the end to get a new nock back in place, you can buy a cheap tapering tool for this. 

There should be some sort of spine designation with all wood arrow, usually two numbers, 30/35 for bows from #30 - #35 lbs. Draw length will make a difference here. If you are shooting 29-30 inches then you will actully be pulling around #40 and would want a 40/45 arrow. 

5/16 shafts should be fine out of that bow I would think. How much of the arrow is sticking out in front of the riser when you are at full draw?


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## sandman2.0 (Jan 8, 2008)

I have a 28" draw and cut my arrows to 30" for my traditional gear. It actually can help by reducing your point on distance for gap shooting. If they are spined correctly you should be good to go.


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## CaliCreole (Jan 20, 2010)

your draw length is what it is, you can draw an arrow back (dont release it) and have someone mark it then measure, if its a stiff spine the 30 will work, DONT cut them to short if your jsut learning your probably fine with the 30"


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## Lynxo (Feb 9, 2012)

Thanks for taking the time to explain. I understand most of it. 

The seller of the arrows said I could return the arrows, don't know if I have to pay for return shipping.
They said these arrows are mainly for groups/kids and they don't specify spine or grain details for their arrows.
So these dozen arrows are like Forest Gump's box of chocolate.

Who sells a dozen arrows that specify spine/grain specs at around $60 with shipping? is there such deal out there?

I did try out the arrow, I notice it wobbles like crazy when I put it on the rest, this meaning it's too thin or wobble is normal?
I pulled it back and notice about 2-4" in front of the rest. I will have someone mark it to get the right length.

Attached is a pic of the nock point. The nock point was pre-installed by the seller. I thought with the nock point in the right place,
the arrow should be perpendicular to the rest? Currently the arrow is pointing downward. If the string is flipped, the nock point is
much too low. 

I rented those Master of Bow series so will try and get the form/shooting technique down. Always best to have a mentor though.

You guys are the best here! Thanks for the help. :beer:


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## xman59 (Jan 19, 2009)

what ever you do do not cut them to short,, better to leave them long, because you or someone else would only need to draw it to far back once, to get a lifetime reminder of why you leave them longer than you think they need to be


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## mez (Feb 22, 2010)

Nock the arrow underneath the nocking point not above. It will be straight then. 

Not sure you will find Cedar's for $60, probably going to be closer to $80. Try an online search.


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## Lynxo (Feb 9, 2012)

mez said:


> Nock the arrow underneath the nocking point not above. It will be straight then.
> 
> Not sure you will find Cedar's for $60, probably going to be closer to $80. Try an online search.


any reasoning for the nock the arrow underneath the nocking point? just curious.


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## mez (Feb 22, 2010)

That is the correct arrow placement. Keeps you from pushing the arrow up the string as there is likely to be upward pressure on the arrow from both split finger and three under.


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## Lynxo (Feb 9, 2012)

mez said:


> That is the correct arrow placement. Keeps you from pushing the arrow up the string as there is likely to be upward pressure on the arrow from both split finger and three under.


if you have the correct draw weight, ideally how long should you be able to hold the bow and aim when fully drawn?


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