# Quieting a recurve?



## dustin862 (Aug 7, 2011)

Okay so I just got back into traditional archery and re-learning it all over. I understand basic tuning methods but feel like I am missing something. I shoot a Hoyt Buffalo 45#-28 at 62' with GT Traditionals 100 grain inserts and 125G heads. My problems is that I don't remember my other recurves being this noisy. This bow has all the bells and whistles for keeping a bow quiet. my brace height is around 7 1/2 which I think might be a little under but standard. If anyone has any suggestions or has a buffalo that could help it would be appreciated. I might just be spoiled from having a very quite compound.


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## George D. Stout (May 11, 2005)

What kind of string are you using? Getting a bow quiet starts with a bare bow....not a lot of so-called silencing apparatus. You first work to get the bow quiet by using properly spined arrows that are clearing the riser well and have no wobbling, whipping, or other confounding anomalies. Then you work the brace height to get it as quiet as you can while maintaining proper arrow flight. Actually, this should be part of your arrow tuning. Your brace height sounds low to me for that bow.

Sometimes the strings themselves can be an issue...too heavy...too many strands...overbuilt, etc. Once you tune to get the bow quiet without silencers, then you start with some string silencing material like catswhiskers or yarn. Work with it to get it in the position that makes the most difference....don't just put them on and think they are right. With the bow, make sure limbs are in tight and listen for metallic sounds that could indicate limb/riser connection noise. Don't put on a bunch of silencing material without doing your best to get it quiet without them. 

If it were me, that bow would have a skinny Ultracam sting on it with padded loops. The skinny strings are plenty strong but not overbuilt...and the padding makes a nice fit in the string notches. There are several places that make those quality strings....including Rick Barbee (tradbow.com), or SBD bowstrings.


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## ArcherFletch (Jul 8, 2012)

Brace height sounds pretty good. Does your string slap the limbs near the tips... I put some velcro soft sticky material where the string rests on the limbs and that helps. Also shooting carbons is just noisy compared to woodies, you might want to try adding another 100g or so on the tips.

Also if you can quiet the limb pockets/attachment to the riser that is usually a source of noise, unstring the bow and put some soft material in between the limbs and the riser... I used velcro for this also haha. It worked...

and screw down the bolts hella tight, if they are a bit loose you will hear it !


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## guyver (Jan 3, 2012)

I'd would suggest taking advantage of the formula limb system, adjust your tiller by a quater turn on the limb bolt at a time until you find the quiestest setting. This can have a large effect on noise level and speed. Also, take advantage of the threaded bushing on your limb butt (probably the best feature of the formula system compared to standard ILF) add some weights or rubber dampers to these and see how it shoots. Should at least remove vibration.


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## Curve1 (Nov 25, 2009)

George D. Stout said:


> What kind of string are you using? Getting a bow quiet starts with a bare bow....not a lot of so-called silencing apparatus. You first work to get the bow quiet by using properly spined arrows that are clearing the riser well and have no wobbling, whipping, or other confounding anomalies. Then you work the brace height to get it as quiet as you can while maintaining proper arrow flight. Actually, this should be part of your arrow tuning. * Your brace height sounds low to me for that bow.*
> 
> Sometimes the strings themselves can be an issue...too heavy...too many strands...overbuilt, etc. Once you tune to get the bow quiet without silencers, then you start with some string silencing material like catswhiskers or yarn. Work with it to get it in the position that makes the most difference....don't just put them on and think they are right. With the bow, make sure limbs are in tight and listen for metallic sounds that could indicate limb/riser connection noise. Don't put on a bunch of silencing material without doing your best to get it quiet without them.
> 
> If it were me, that bow would have a* skinny Ultracam sting on it with padded loops. The skinny strings are plenty strong but not overbuilt...and the padding makes a nice fit in the string notches. * There are several places that make those quality strings....including Rick Barbee (tradbow.com), or SBD bowstrings.



What George said


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## LBR (Jan 1, 2004)

I agree that the string can be the culprit, but I haven't found "skinny" strings to be any quieter than a moderate sized string, as long as it was made correctly. I've tried them on longbows, recurves, and selfbows--didn't matter. I have found that way overbuilt strings can be noisier, at least on some bows. I've talked to tons of others with the same opinion.

Flemish is generally quieter than endless--again, if made properly. The loops need to be padded and tapered where the ends are "married" back into the string. Material makes less of a difference on some bows than on others--don't ask me why. I've had excellent results with 8125, Dynaflight '97, and 8190. 450+ and 452X are also good materials.

Other than that, tuning has always been a big factor. After I decide on a string, I tune with a "naked" string. Find the sweet spot in the brace, then add silencers. 

I like "cat whiskers", tied on around the string so they can be adjusted. Silencers can be tuned just like the brace, etc. One big mistake I've seen made very often is leaving the silencers too long--they will make their own noise if they are long.

If you can narrow down the source of the noise, then obviously you'll have an idea of what to work on. It could be one big thing, or several little things.


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## dustin862 (Aug 7, 2011)

thanks for the advice. The bow came with three strings (two are the hoyt strings that came with the bow) the other is not being used. The strings came with fur silencers already attached and really don't want to take them off (might need some trimming). The limbs on this bow do not tighten down as far as I know. They slide into place and use the strings resistance to create a tension hold. Each limb tip has padding where the string touches and each limb has the string stopper. I think I will start by adding a twist to each end of the string and ad more if needed, not exceeding 8". Other than that I am using a glove and might be plucking the string but don't really know how to avoid that. tried using a three layer black widow tab but don't like it. the noise is not a creak or squeak. its more of a thrumm sound when I release. the arrow has a tad right kick but is not hitting the shelf. My nocking point is exactly 1/2 inch if this info helps.


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## guyver (Jan 3, 2012)

If I'm not mistaken, the buffalo has tiller/preload adjustment similar to an ILF system. The large bolt that fits in the limb should be able to be adjusted in or out (tightening or loosening) to increase or reduce poundage or customize tiller.


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## dustin862 (Aug 7, 2011)

that's correct. that bolt is tightened all the way down. as far as tillering the bow any I have no clue where to start.


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## guyver (Jan 3, 2012)

Grab a copy of 'Shooting the Stickbow', I'm fairly certain that it covers tiller adjustment amongst many many other things. Good reference.

Tillering for noise is really not all that complex.

Shoot the bow some as is, then uncrew the top bolt by a 1/4 turn (90 degrees), re assemble, shoot the bow some more, uncrew limbbolt another 1/4 turn, repeat until it gets as quiet as possible, then move to 1/8 turn (45 deg) and repeat, note you may have to tighten the bolt to find to optimum/sweet spot. Also worth noting to unstring the bow everytime the limb bolt is adjusted, also you probably have a set screw that you'll have to unlock for every adj.

This is really worth the effort as you can squeeze out a few fps (turn noise energy into arrow energy) and also have a quiter bow. win win


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## LBR (Jan 1, 2004)

Tiller adjustment should be covered in the owner's manual. If you didn't get one, it's probably available on-line (for free). Tiller is just one of many things that could be the problem.

I don't own a Buffalo, but I have replaced the strings for several owners and they said it made a big difference in noise.


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

dustin862 said:


> Okay so I just got back into traditional archery and re-learning it all over. I understand basic tuning methods but feel like I am missing something. I shoot a Hoyt Buffalo 45#-28 at 62' with GT Traditionals 100 grain inserts and 125G heads. My problems is that I don't remember my other recurves being this noisy. This bow has all the bells and whistles for keeping a bow quiet. my brace height is around 7 1/2 which I think might be a little under but standard. If anyone has any suggestions or has a buffalo that could help it would be appreciated. I might just be spoiled from having a very quite compound.


 A bark collar? :grin: Several of my bows are incredibly noisy... my canebrake for one. Brace height didn't help and it got so high it started to affect my already difficult tuning of the bow due to its weight. The fix for me was accidental. I was in the field and had taken a shot that my hunting partner heard from almost 100 yards away... or so he says... nonetheless... so I took some woven cord and tied it to my string with dental floss. That had an immediate result. Heavy arrows also quiet most bows also from the get go.

Aloha.. :beer:


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## guyver (Jan 3, 2012)

rattus58 said:


> Heavy arrows also quiet most bows also from the get go.
> 
> Aloha.. :beer:


Very good point. Try some at 10 gpp or more


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## Jeb-D. (Sep 21, 2011)

guyver said:


> Grab a copy of 'Shooting the Stickbow', I'm fairly certain that it covers tiller adjustment amongst many many other things. Good reference.
> 
> Tillering for noise is really not all that complex.
> 
> ...


Do you re-adjust brace height and nock point each time? I find brace height, tiller and nock point are all interrelated. I usually set and forget tiller at 1/8" then tune via brace height and nock point.


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## guyver (Jan 3, 2012)

from the hoyt manual:

Note: From the bottomed out position, the tiller bolt should only be backed out to a maximum of six complete turns.
ADJUSTING TILLER
Tiller is a measurement which indicates the weight relationship of the top and bottom limb. This static measurement effects bow reaction and aiming. It is easily measured by noting the difference between the top limb butt to the string, and the bottom limb butt and the string. The difference (if any) is the tiller.
The degree of desirable tiller will vary from archer to archer, depending upon factors such as grip pressure, finger pressure, desired tuning pattern, desired aiming arc, desired bow reaction and more. As a starting point, it is usually easiest to tune a bow with 0 to 3/8” of tiller (distance from bottom limb to string is equal to that of the top limb, or less, by up to 3/8”).
Typically, for most shooters with normal finger and hand pressure, anywhere from 0 to 3/8” of tiller is going to yield a bow which aims easily without “pulling” high or low, and *which shoots more quietly.*
Measure the tiller as shown in the diagram to the right. If you wish to increase tiller without affecting bow weight, unstring the bow and add turns to the bottom limb tiller bolt, then subtract the exact same number of turns from the top limb tiller bolt. After re-locking the bolts and set screws, restring the bow. Do the opposite to decrease tiller. You can increase both tiller and bow weight by adjusting the bottom limb only.


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## dustin862 (Aug 7, 2011)

thanks for all the info. It seems like its going to be best to strip the bow all the way down and start from the beginning which is what I should have done. However, Its dangerously close to season so I think my time will be better spent shooting my bow and getting it ready rather than typing about it. This was the reason I left the compound. I spent more time looking at it then shooting it but man did it shoot good after it was said and done. I guess I cant escape "it" after all. Oh well, Traditional is by far a more fun shoot. Thanks again!


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## Greenjoytj (Aug 10, 2013)

I have a Hoyt Buffalo 45#@28" with the limbs that make a 60" long bow.
When I first shot the bow in my basement it made a noise like a gun shot while shooting xx75 2016's 29" with 125 gr. field points.
I raised the brace hight and now I'm quite happy with the greatly reduced noise produced during a shot.
I have since added two short 43mm long spider legs rubber string silencers at the 1/4 node points and the sound from the bow is even quieter.
I have not added the limb tip silencing pads and don't think I will.
I suspect that the GT 3555 arrows are a little light in mass weight probably ok for spine if the point weight is right.
I'm sure there fast, but I rather have a slightly slower velocity and a quieter shot.

I was quite put off that Hoyt didn't include a paper manual with the bow, just a dvd which I've watched several times (it just keeps getting better). 
I downloaded the Hoyt manual for their Olympic class bows as the Buffalo riser is very similar just a little shorter. That where I got the ball park brace height info to try on my bow.


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## reddogge (Jul 21, 2009)

OK, here goes. To quiet a Buffalo I do the following:
1.Glue deerskin pads on the cantilevers where they touch the limbs. You could use thin rubber or cork.
2. Go to Home Depot and buy a set of neoprene O rings and remove your limb bolts and put an O ring on each bolt so when you reinstall your limbs the O ring will be between the limb and the bolt. There's alway some expert that comes on here and says you don't need to do this but my bow is whisper quiet.
3. Tiller it + 1/8" on top limb for split finger, even for 3 under. If shooting 3 under it never will be as quiet as split finger, at lease mine wasn't.
4. Install homemade woolie silencers 1/2 way from where string touches limbs to nocking point on each limb.
5. Shoot a 10 gpp arrow.
5. I wrap the string below the loops where it touches the limbs with wool yarn too.
6. You may want to raise brace height to 8".

Do you have to do all of this? I don't know but I do and have a very quiet bow according to others.
And when I add or take out twists to a flemish string I lay the bow on a table and just twist from the bottom. No need to do top and bottom. It all evens out when you restring.


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## sharpbroadhead (Feb 19, 2004)

what spine arrow are you using - because with that much weight up front, it better be a pretty stiff arrow, I suspect your issue is a tuning issue.


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## bradd7 (Oct 17, 2008)

*I am using a glove and might be plucking the string but don't really know how to avoid that. the noise is not a creak or squeak. its more of a thrumm sound when I release. the arrow has a tad right kick but is not hitting the shelf.*

First off, what George said.
IMHO: Hoyt string is made for that bow. Remove the silencers so that you really know what you are hearing, as many of these adjustments suggested require a fine ear that comes over the time of experimentation and tweaking. Plucking can cause the thrumm. Get that in order first. When I shoot indoors noise doesn't matter and I can't use silencers anyway. There is always going to be some 'reverberation noise' when shooting it, but as soon as I put on silencers it becomes a dull Twwunk and almost silent. AS George says, you have to get the bow as quiet as possible without the silencers first, and then they can really do their job.


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## Traditionalist (Oct 28, 2012)

I use beaver balls and felt pads on my limbs to quiet my recurve down


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## SIXXgun (Jun 1, 2009)

Mine was noisy, until I found the right combo and now its very quiet. You and I are both shooting the same arrows, my only difference is mine have a 125 grain tip, so I would think ours should be similar enough. Those arrows should already be between 9-10 grains per pound for you, and if they fly straight with no left-right kick then stick with them.

As Fred suggested in the DVD, I set my brace height near 8 1/8". I set my tiller between 2 and 3 turns out on the top limb, which gives me about 1/4" of tiller. For me, these 2 things made a huge difference. I then put some adhesive felt strips on the back of the limbs just like the calf hair strips that came with the bow. I just prefer the felt ones. it was a fairly quiet bow at this point, and arrows are flying like darts.

I also put some cat whiskers on mine, mostly cause they look cool, and it got even quieter.

I have an Americas Best Flemish Twist string on mine, I like it a lot. I'm not sure if this ha much to do with the sound or not. You are more than welcome to PM me if you want...it sounds like we have a very similar setup.

JM


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## JParanee (Oct 13, 2009)

Hi 

Make sure you loosen the set screws before you try and turn your limb bolts 

As others have said raise your brace height to 8 

I use limb savers 

Fur silencers and that's it and you can hear my Buff here


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## Curve1 (Nov 25, 2009)

That bow is quiet...especially to be shooting it indoors, sounds good..or it sounds good and quiet , that's even better.:thumbs_up
Tried a Ultracam string on my 45 lb Grizzly, really impressed with the UC, soft feel upon release and quiet.


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## keb (Jul 17, 2007)

I had one limb savers will make it quite


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## dustin862 (Aug 7, 2011)

Just wanted to give a quick update on the bow situation. First off the string that I thought was at 7 1/2 brace height had stretched som and was closer to 71/4. I put several twists in the string and brought right at 8" brace height using a T square. Bam! The bow shot smoother and much quieter. Next I trimmed off the leather that was sticking out from the fur silencers on the string. That also helped. Next wrapped some wool string around the ends of my string. Results= I couldn't be happier. Thanks for all the info. Happy hunting!


Sent from my iphern. Sory fer eny typeos.


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## Cwilder (Jun 4, 2006)

Do your self a favor and dump the stock string! Once I did that and tuned the BH with a naked string it was a huge difference in noise.


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## LBR (Jan 1, 2004)

> Do your self a favor and dump the stock string! Once I did that and tuned the BH with a naked string it was a huge difference in noise.


I've seen that on a few bows, especially those that come with a machine-made string. I was asked to put in a bid for the strings for the Buffalo before it hit the market. They thought I had a machine. Once they gave me the numbers, I declined--way more than an individual would care to make by hand.

It doesn't take a "magic" string, just a well made one and a little tuning.


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## JParanee (Oct 13, 2009)

LBR said:


> I've seen that on a few bows, especially those that come with a machine-made string. I was asked to put in a bid for the strings for the Buffalo before it hit the market. They thought I had a machine. Once they gave me the numbers, I declined--way more than an individual would care to make by hand.
> 
> It doesn't take a "magic" string, just a well made one and a little tuning.


I told ya, you need to make a sweat shop so ya don't have to pass up orders like that


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