# Anyone Have Left and Right Issues Shooting a Blade



## super* (Jan 26, 2008)

I have left and right issues when shooting a blade out of a moneymaker but I do not have a left and right issue if I shoot a drop away. Any suggestions?


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## rock monkey (Dec 28, 2002)

one thing to take into consideration with the blade, and it goes counter to the thinking of using over-draw style blade mounts, is the contact point of the blade at the point of rotation for the natural torque of the bow?

if you shoot with a bone-to-bone style bow arm, you will have better results.

as the bow is drawn and as it pushes the arrow, the bow will rotate at a point usually in the throat of the grip. if your blade's contact point with the arrow is ahead or behind that point, you will have some wierd shot placement depending on if it's a weak or strong shot.

if you have a drawboard you can see what i mean. draw the bow with an arrow and move the stabilizer left and right. watch the tip of the arrow and see how much it moves when you induce the wiggle. if you can, play with the mount location to reduce or eliminate the effect on the arrow.

on my bows, i use brite-site blades and they are all .010". even with a 'stiff' blade for 325gr arrows and 291gr arrows, i get the best results when using a backer blade. dont ask me why, i just do. i dont argue with the end result, just appreciate knowing what it takes for my equipment to be reliable and stable.

just to show what a difference it made in my scores. last week with no backer blade, i shot a frustrating and sloppy 299-42x's in league. this week with the backer blade, i shot a nice tight 300-52x's. i was more relaxed because i wasnt getting frustrated and 'displeased', shots went easier and i was less 'tired' after the round was over.


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## kavo 71 (May 9, 2009)

Along the same line of thinking, if the tip of your arrow is above where the arrow meets the rest, the arrow is too stiff at that point because of the tip or insert, causing the arrow to "bounce" off the blade causing erratic arrow flight.


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## Hoytusa#1 (Jan 2, 2009)

I had this problem when I went to 2712, they would shoot left and right. I tried to get a wider blade for my Hoyt Blade rest but no one had it, so went to drop away and the problem went away. I think if the V in the blade is to norrow you tend to get left and right shots, by the arrow leaving the bow funny.
Thanks and God Bless!


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## Spoon13 (Feb 20, 2007)

Another point to look at would be fletching contact. By shooting a drop away, the rest is gone when the fletchings get there. With the blade it is obviously in the same place. The arrow will begin to spin once it leaves the string. Make sure you have plenty of clearance for them to get by. That will also give you some right and left misses depending on which side is hitting.


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## field14 (May 21, 2002)

Don't forget that you are using a shoot-around arrow rest when using a blade. This means that nock alignment with regard to the hen vanes/feathers is critical and must be exactly the same with each and every arrow you shoot. You don't concern yourself anywhere near as much with regard to nock alignment when shooting with a fall-away arrow rest. So many shooters align their nocks "by eye" and call it good; but this isn't the case if you want consistent pin-point accuracy.

The NOCK..the most critical, but least understood or "checked" piece of equipment we have. So much depends upon that little piece of plastic!

Total and absolute vane/feather clearance is nice...but NOT absolutely necessary. You can have contact...but if it is not consistent nock contact, then you are going to get 'flyers'.

One other thing already brought up is shooting too narrow of a blade with fat shafts. If you are shooting a super narrow blade that is really intended for nanos or X-10's or ACE's....and try to shoot 25, 26, or 27 diameter arrows off of it...rots of ruck....unless you have perfect form, that is, haha.

field14 (Tom D.)


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## super* (Jan 26, 2008)

Ah thanks for the input but last night I figured out my problem which was with the pse grip i was getting a little bit of rocking so I changed to a deeper grip and I am having no troubles at all. So it was the opperator not the equipment.


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## Josh_Putman (Jun 18, 2004)

I learned many years ago to put the point where the arrow contacts the rest directly above the pivot point of the grip. That way when you torque the bow slightly it minimizes the effect of the torque.

This is why I can't understand the Jesse mount for the Pro Tuner. It goes against logic to me.


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## redman (Feb 22, 2003)

What is the best way to keep your nocks align the same on all the arrows i use pin nocks and they can move easy.


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## brtesite (May 24, 2002)

Josh_Putman said:


> I learned many years ago to put the point where the arrow contacts the rest directly above the pivot point of the grip. That way when you torque the bow slightly it minimizes the effect of the torque.
> 
> This is why I can't understand the Jesse mount for the Pro Tuner. It goes against logic to me.


 Because the pivot point is approx over the break of the wrist & the jesse mount can moved back & forward for that sweet spot.


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## field14 (May 21, 2002)

redman said:


> What is the best way to keep your nocks align the same on all the arrows i use pin nocks and they can move easy.


A lot of people are using Saran Wrap to put their pin nock inserts into their arrows...thus, it is likely that the INSERT is what is allowing the nock to apparently move. At the advice of "the Hammer", I went with the super soft LOW TEMPERATURE hot melt to put in my pin nock inserts and that has STOPPED the pin nock insert from moving at the back of the arrow.
With LOW temperature hot melt at the back of the shaft, you don't have to worry about losing the insert due to it sticking in the bale, ha. Only takes a tad of heat should you have to change a pin nock insert.

As far as the nocks themselves moving easily...it isn't common, but IF I put a new plastic nock onto the pin...and that nock moves easily...it comes back off the pin and I get out another nock. 

IF I have a pin that the nocks fit loosely on...then I replace the pin nock insert.

I also always check the pin nocks themselves quite frequently anyways just to make sure they aren't slightly cracked (which will cause the nock to "loosen up" on the pin.

I normally have to apply quite a bit of pressure to the nock to get it to move on the pin...and when that isn't happening, then it becomes obvious that the NOCK itself is the culprit.

I make sure that I find a couple of numbered arrows that are consistently hitting the center (doesn't take long). Then I will match up ALL of the rest of that dozen to those two "indicator arrows" so that the nock slot angle is as close to identical as I can get them. I do NOT go for "total and absolute vane/feather clearance" because....it doesn't take much operator error to create some contact.

Thus, if all the nocks are rotated the same...even with contact, they'll at least fly the same. I shot springie rests for years, and nock rotation was a part of life, and a critical one at that. If you had all the nocks rotated the same, then those arrows would group...if a nock was 'out of line', that arrow was NOT going to group with the others; same idea with the blade.
There are nock alignment tools out there; I think Apple makes one. There is another new out out that IMHO is a better idea. It uses brass cylinders of different sizes and a mechanism where you can twist your nock to get your indicator line set to "the" indicator arrow and then simply match the others to it. This unit can be carried with you on the ranges, whereby the Apple cannot.

THere are other methods too....but that would require even more detail....
field14 (Tom D.)


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