# "Tuning for tens" or....... for recurve



## bowbender7 (Jun 1, 2002)

Is this considered the best quick reference for setting up a recurve? I have seen other methods, and heck, I'm sure they all work as good as the shooter but I am curious about which method is most popular.

Sean


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## baldmountain (Apr 21, 2003)

I've been using Tuning for Tens and it works pretty well. I really HATE tuning so I usually don't make it all the way through the whole process. I usually stop after the plunger tuning. But even so, I usually end up with a decent tune. (Better than my ability to shoot.)

The other mothod people use is Easton's tuning guide. You can find it in the downloads area of Eaaston's website:

http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads/

Since it is working foe me I'll stick with Tuning for Tens...


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## bowbender7 (Jun 1, 2002)

Thanks Baldmountain. I've read through several procedures including Eastons tuning guide. I liked how Ricks method used bare shaft as a check(reference) after tuning via other means so you can replicate the same tune quickly after changing strings...etc. 

Coming from a compound background, I probably have a little different perspective about whats truely important.
I'm anxious to play when my stuff gets here.

Sean

Sean


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## c3hammer (Sep 20, 2002)

I've been using this guide and it has been working very well.

It takes about 2 hours to sort out from scratch to 70m. At least for me as a relative newbie to Oly recurve shooting.

I highly recommend it.

Cheers,
Pete


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## baldmountain (Apr 21, 2003)

Sean,

I'm relatively new to recurve too. The thing I've found about recurve tuning is that is is WAY more critical than compound tuning. A compound can be pretty far off and still shoot decent. But if a recurve is off, you are going to have trouble keeping them on the butt.

I've been getting ready to shoot field this summer with a recurve and it is really something to fling and arrow 80 yards with a recurve and keep it on the face. It's amazing how long the arrow spends in the air. I'm having a blast!

P.S. if you are choosing arrows using the easton arrow chart becareful. They seem to be one size stiff for recurve spine. I got some Easton 610 Navigators based on the chart. I probably should have gotten the 710s.


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## arrow1347 (Mar 21, 2003)

*recurve tuning*

whats the best way?


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## c3hammer (Sep 20, 2002)

Here's the link for the web based Tuning for Tens paper at the Texas Archery site.

http://www.texasarchery.org/BoardMembers/RickStonebrakerPages/TuningForTens/TuningForTens.html

On that page there is also a link to a PDF of the T4T's guide.

It's the best way to get there that I've seen laid out in black and white.

Cheers,
Pete


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## bowbender7 (Jun 1, 2002)

I am curious, Ricks method calls for shooting through paper with bare shaft as opposed to Eastons method of checking group impact with bare shaft/a.o. to fletched.
Is it possible that bare shafts can group right with fletched but not shoot well through paper? I could see this being the case with a beginner (ME ) who does not have the most consistent or fluid release.

I shot my first arrows with an Olympic recurve bow yesterday (have shot traditional - but no pulling through the clicker before ) and i can see why so many people buy them and quickly lay them down or sell them. BUT, I had so much fun - its everything I thought it would be. Banging arrows at 50 yds really is pretty easy with a compound in comparison. 

Sean


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## baldmountain (Apr 21, 2003)

bowbender7 said:


> *I am curious, Ricks method calls for shooting through paper with bare shaft as opposed to Eastons method of checking group impact with bare shaft/a.o. to fletched.
> Is it possible that bare shafts can group right with fletched but not shoot well through paper? I could see this being the case with a beginner (ME ) who does not have the most consistent or fluid release.
> *


You should see some of the slow motion movies Bieter has on their website of an arrow being shot out of a recurve. It's amazing that arrows will group at all.  So I'd guess yes.



bowbender7 said:


> *
> I shot my first arrows with an Olympic recurve bow yesterday (have shot traditional - but no pulling through the clicker before ) and i can see why so many people buy them and quickly lay them down or sell them. BUT, I had so much fun - its everything I thought it would be. Banging arrows at 50 yds really is pretty easy with a compound in comparison.
> 
> Sean *


Welcome to the most frustrating thing that you will have so much fun with since you discovered girls.


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## c3hammer (Sep 20, 2002)

I had some problems with the bare shaft paper tuning at first as well. I was getting my chin into the shot and it was giving me a bad paper tear. As I figured out how to make the anchor more consistant the fingers seemed to come off much more easily and the paper tears became perfect with the right poundage.

Just remeber to carefully adjust the centershot to perfectly inline with the bow when doing the bare shaft paper testing in T4T. I missed that little point the first time I went through it. You have to move the centershot over to perfectly inline with the ridged plunger to get the right results.

Cheers,
Pete


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## bowbender7 (Jun 1, 2002)

Thanks for the response guys. I can foresee the potential for frustration. Although it may have been beginners luck, I set my new bow up - eyeballed the plunger location, and nock height. I was very surprised to see that my bare shafts impacted just slightly low of my fletched shafts but in the same vertical plane at 20 yds.
I purposefully cut my shafts extra long to start with assuming I would be doing some trimming imediately, but I'm not going to do any cutting or attempting to tune until I get a little more consistent with my shot timing and release.
I let down a lot last night. My first few arrows of each end went off well, but the last one or two arrows were a bit harder to get through the clicker. Stamina will come with time and work. 
I wish i had not waited this long to get involved in this style - reason I did wait is because it is NON EXISTANT in my area, so I always talked myself out of it because of no local competition. 
Now all I need is to win the Powerball so I can shoot recurve full time and get good at it! 
I'm obviously no expert but this Aurora sure is a nice bow!
Sean


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## baldmountain (Apr 21, 2003)

bowbender7 said:


> *I'm obviously no expert but this Aurora sure is a nice bow!*


I'm shooting an Aurora too.  I'd offer more advice but I'm maybe a month or two ahead of you. I still have a lot of work to do to be any good at this stuff.

While you are getting used to a clicker be sure to use your back muscles to pull through the clicker. It is way too easy to start cupping your hand or getting your wrist involved in getting through the clicker. (I'm fighting this at the moment.)


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## CHPro (May 21, 2002)

Great fun isn't it Sean. I picked up a recurve for the first time in many, many, many years about 3 yrs ago. I don't get as much time right now to shoot it but I do drag it out at least a few times a year to shoot it at a tournament or two.

Noticed one thing with the fingers, got to keep the back of the hand relaxed just like you should while holding/shooting a release. Seems to make for a much smoother, cleaner release even with fingers !

>>------->


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## bowbender7 (Jun 1, 2002)

Yes, I had done extensive reading on the subject long before ever picking one up. I have read the sag forum (old one) for years and got to read a bunch of the good info thats not on their new server.
The relaxed hand thing was one of the methods I carried over from compound /release shooting. I have been shooting my compound with back tension releases long enough that the relaxed hand and holding all the weight with the back muscles only(no upper arm/ or hand cupping) was an important technique that is at least a familiar feeling, albeit much more intense with recurve!
The single thing I picked out last night was, for me, the necessity in setting up the top string finger properly/consistently. If I hold to much weight with my index - I seem to have a tendency to pluck. I need to find the right balance between placement for consistent anchor with out letting it hinder a smooth let-go.
Thats my immediate focus.

Sean


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## clever_guy (May 21, 2002)

'Although it may have been beginners luck, I set my new bow up - eyeballed the plunger location, and nock height. I was very surprised to see that my bare shafts impacted just slightly low of my fletched shafts but in the same vertical plane at 20 yds."

Don't be so suprised Sean, you are a good shot with a compound, it all carries over in various ways to recurve. Tuning recurves is a lot easier than compounds, the problem is that "the operator" makes it hard by being inconsistant  so you shoot a lot more before changing things to make sure it isn't you that is causeing the problems. You have a lot of of the "tools" you need aready with aiming and executing - you just have to get the form down, easy stuff - just a lot of work.

What did you decide on for limbs?

-CG


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