# DIY Perfect Arrow Cutting - With no arrow cutter



## strandbowhunter (Jan 6, 2010)

wow that is different!


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## SeeMont (Jan 18, 2011)

Great idea, Do you tighten the chuck on the nock the arrow.


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## sawtoothscream (Apr 19, 2008)

interresting for sure and sounds much cheaper. was just planing on buying a arrow saw but this might be worth a try


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## bowhuntermitch (May 17, 2005)

ericwhyne said:


> I recently bought a dozen arrows for my new recurve online and wanted to shoot it ASAP. Here is a trick I learned on a non-archery project.
> Step one: Wrap painter's tape around where you're going to cut, and mark on the tape what your length is. The tape prevents the carbon from splintering.
> Step two: I just cut them with my dremel (by hand)
> Step three: Drill a hole in a piece of wood, just slightly larger than your arrow, plus the tape. Arrow and tape should fit loosely.
> ...


Great idea. What happens if you dont put even pressure the drill?


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## Spotshooter2 (Oct 23, 2003)

I have a problem with your idea. If you don't hold the arrow PERFECTLY straight up and down you will be making the end unsquare.


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## AR&BOW (May 24, 2009)

Spotshooter2 said:


> I have a problem with your idea. If you don't hold the arrow PERFECTLY straight up and down you will be making the end unsquare.


Thinking the same thing.


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## Shootin Jim (Dec 27, 2010)

Recipe for disaster IMO.

As others have mentioned, you're on the end of a very long shaft and holding it straight will be nearly impossible with such a small envelope of support by the cut.

Second, you're relying on a poorly fit hole to maintain said alignment.

Third, you're placing torque on the arrow it was never designed to sustain.

And last, you're applying pressure on the shaft at the nock with the chuck of the drill which could very easily cause shaft failure.


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## Martin Hunter (Mar 16, 2008)

Shootin Jim said:


> Recipe for disaster IMO.
> 
> As others have mentioned, you're on the end of a very long shaft and holding it straight will be nearly impossible with such a small envelope of support by the cut.
> 
> ...


I agree, but see ericwhynes' idea, he is depending on the bubble level on top of the Craftsman drill.


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## Shootin Jim (Dec 27, 2010)

That bubble is marginal at best. Claiming this is better than any arrow saw out there is a big stretch. 

When the bubble is out of the center of the circle, how much angularity have you imparted at the other end of the 28" lever? 3 jaw drill chucks rarely run true either - especially $10 versions that come installed on box store drills.


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## theloghouser (Aug 16, 2002)

You might be a ******* if-


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## blackice1 (Mar 1, 2010)

I wouldnt hook my $18.00 arrows on that sorry my opinion only


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## Make It Happen (Oct 26, 2010)

"you'll shoot your eye out kid" Use the right tool for the job at hand & be safe!


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## kc hay seed (Jul 12, 2007)

www.archerytalk.com/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=317748&stc=1&d=11959103 i dont know if this will still pull uo or not,but worth a try. very simple to make.


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## nycredneck (Nov 9, 2007)

It's OK in a pinch but not better or easier than an arrow saw IMO. It certainly is cheaper but that won't make it better.


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## kc hay seed (Jul 12, 2007)

in the trueing block i posted use 80 grit sand paper.


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## reezen11 (Oct 22, 2009)

not for me but thanks for sharing.


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## letsgobowhuntin (Aug 4, 2009)

I think it's about as primitive as attaching a sharp piece of hand sharpened flint to a straight cedar stick with turkey feathers tied to the back. But hey, you gotta start somewhere. A+ for thinking outside the box.


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## ericwhyne (Feb 23, 2011)

*It's science!!*

You don't need to tighten the chuck onto the shaft or knock... Just enough to get it to spin quickly. Don't press down at all, the weight of the arrow onto the sandpaper is enough.

It doesn't matter if you hold it perfectly vertical, that's where the physics comes in.... The spinning shaft will square itself on the sand paper...


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## racer102 (Jul 16, 2006)

If you were 1/32 " out of plumb on the top in 28" that would make it appx .0396875 out of square or almost 3/64" over a .242 area thats alot out of square, might as well save a step and just put the insert in, your dremel is probably that close on the cut. You need to find away to hold it square to the surface. This all figuered that the surface you have the sandpaper is perfectly square and if it it's not the numbers could get worse. Keep on it thats how products come to life trial and error


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## T_well (Jan 10, 2010)

People it is physics! The end will be square because the arrow is spinning. Any offset is corrected because the entire circumference of the arrow tip visits the same point of offset. However, offset can vary the length minutely from the measured cut and even vary from arrow to arrow. Racer102's math is probably right; the same priciples can be used to figure out how much shorter the arrow will be given a certain out of plumb setting.


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## Shootin Jim (Dec 27, 2010)

It's only square if the force is applied evenly over the entire duration of the operation. I don't know anyone who can be "delicate" with a 2# drill in their hand trying to just barely touch anything (while trying to keep it perfectly verticle).

To each their own.


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## Stash (Jun 1, 2002)

If you already have a dremel with a cutting disc, and wood and a drill, why not just made a jig so you can cut each arrow to exactly the same length AND have it square in the same operation? Just drill a hole a bit bigger than the nock part way through a small piece of wood, clamp or screw it to a table or board. Then use a C clamp or something to hold the dremel at the right distance and rotate the arrow against the cutoff wheel - that'll give you a squarer cut than your method, and it'll be faster and cleaner.


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## Spotshooter2 (Oct 23, 2003)

T_well said:


> People it is physics! The end will be square because the arrow is spinning. Any offset is corrected because the entire circumference of the arrow tip visits the same point of offset. However, offset can vary the length minutely from the measured cut and even vary from arrow to arrow. Racer102's math is probably right; the same priciples can be used to figure out how much shorter the arrow will be given a certain out of plumb setting.


 Yeah it is in the physics , if you don't hold something square and inline it isnt going to be square:sad:


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## T_well (Jan 10, 2010)

Spotshooter2 said:


> Yeah it is in the physics , if you don't hold something square and inline it isnt going to be square:sad:


That's like saying your tire is only flat on one side!


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## ericwhyne (Feb 23, 2011)

*Getting closer...*



Shootin Jim said:


> It's only square if the force is applied evenly over the entire duration of the operation. I don't know anyone who can be "delicate" with a 2# drill in their hand trying to just barely touch anything (while trying to keep it perfectly verticle).
> 
> To each their own.


If you did it by hand that would be true. But the spinning arrow, once you get it going fast enough will true itself. Like a gyro. The only way it won't sand square is if you allow an oscillation to be introduced, which at high speed velocities would be very evident because the arrow would jump around. You can avoid that with a light touch.

You can never square a cut off saw perfectly. By spinning the arrow and allowing it to true itself it finds it's own perfect...

You may get a very small variation in arrow length, but on the dozen that I did in this manner I couldn't detect it with a tape measure or holding them next to each other...


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## Atchison (Apr 15, 2009)

This may be a little exagerated for physics purposes but the arrow would end would look like this if you spun it with a drill and the arrow wasn't perfectly square to start with as the outside would sand down more than the inside, just like a tire does if the balance or rotation is off....you are grinding on one side....not the minimal difference this could have most likely wouldn't effect anything but it technically would not be square unless you held the drill perfectly square....


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## AZBowhunt (Nov 4, 2007)

I agrre that you may think it is spinning true, but is not. You ever watch a top spin. Same concept. It may spin nice and clean, but is wobbling all over. The arrow will spin on its centeline, but not necessarily square to your sandpaper. JMO. but pretty low tech and not very precise if you ask me, which you didn't, but that's the best part of AT!


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## TJK (Dec 2, 2010)

Great idea, it would be square but it might have a small chamfer to it but I don't think this would affect anything.


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## T_well (Jan 10, 2010)

Atchison said:


> This may be a little exagerated for physics purposes but the arrow would end would look like this if you spun it with a drill and the arrow wasn't perfectly square to start with as the outside would sand down more than the inside, just like a tire does if the balance or rotation is off....you are grinding on one side....not the minimal difference this could have most likely wouldn't effect anything but it technically would not be square unless you held the drill perfectly square....


Is this a picture of chamfer of one edge or wall of the arrow? If so, I'll agree with that; but the wall is so thin wouldn't that be too minuscule to worry over?


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## Shootin Jim (Dec 27, 2010)

The issue I have with the whole "it'll square itself" deal, is that you're starting out with a high spot. Any angularity will relax the pressure on the high spot when the acute angle favors the low side. Induced occilation - yeah, you already have one by the very fact the end isn't square. When such relaxation occurs, the low side will also have material removed, and it will simply perpetuate the out of square condition. That is, unless you're forcing the cut so much as to take a big bite, and then you run into the other issues I mentioned about causing harm to the integrity of your shafts from the forces applied.

Do what you want; I know I wouldn't subject my arrows to this torture.


As for a saw not being able to cut a perfectly square end - I'd get perma-banned if I said what I think about that. I use saws all the time which are able to be trued to make a square cut down to .005" without much difficulty (over a much bigger surface than an arrow). Sure, you do get better from grinding or milling, but we're talking about stinking arrows here. If you wanted a cut-off saw to make perfectly square cuts, you could devise a collet and spin fixture to rotate the arrow through the cut. This would pretty much be your perfect cut, and not all that difficult to produce - but it would take time, and I'm not sure what you'd even gain over the accuracy of a well trammed saw.


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## ClydeWigg3 (Jan 4, 2009)

You're gonna end up with that thing splintered and stuck in your leg. Get somebody to cut them or spend $100 and buy a saw. My leg's worth more than the money I'd save.


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## Jovush (Sep 28, 2006)

has anyone closely inspected a shaft after being cut with a commercial saw? Does it leave a truly square end without any sign of splintering?


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Jovush said:


> has anyone closely inspected a shaft after being cut with a commercial saw? Does it leave a truly square end without any sign of splintering?


Fixed blade arrow saw (not the chop saw style).

Take a light scoring cut by rotating the shaft, while lightly touching the surface of the arrow to the blade.
When your scoring cut goes completely around the arrow shaft,
continue rotating the arrow shaft
to deepen the cut around the perimeter.

If you make the cut with say about 3 complete rotations of the arrow shaft,
the cut will be very clean.


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## Pepper (Feb 9, 2004)

spend the $3.00 and have em cut at a pro shop.


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## xlr8ngn (Jan 14, 2009)

Everyone here likely has a spare arrow. The man says he got a square cut, and didn't crush the end with the drill. If you guys are so convinced he is wrong, then prove it.

BTW, I see nothing wrong with the Op's approach. I think I will try it on one of my spare arrows and report back.


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## Jovush (Sep 28, 2006)

I have wrapped masking tape around shaft to mark cut-off line and protect below cut then used a die grinder cut-off wheel a time or two. I cut around perimeter of shaft as opposed to cutting through from one side. After cutting, I clean and square cut with sandpaper. I've compared my version with arrows cut from big catalog retail store and believe my method is as good if not better. I basically do the same as OP but do not use power method to square edge. "Knocking on wood" , I've never had a problem with my cuts. Wait - I did cut down a half dozen arrows once using the wrong end of the 1 inch masking tape, leaving my arrows 1 inch shorter than I originally wanted, but they turned out to shoot great.


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## Klippman (Mar 31, 2008)

Ericwhynes’s idea is great, but how to get the almost perfect pre-cut? 
I take a cartridge which is cut by a pipe cutter. For my Gold tip black 340 spine an unfired .308 or .30-06 cartridge fits well. Sometimes a fired cartridge works even better if a new one appears a little too narrow. There are so many “arrow sized calibers” in the market that you will find the right one. That makes your dremel cut easy and almost perfectly squared because the cartridge was it as well. The nock- trimmer on the photo can be replaced by ericwhyne’s idea then.


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## threedhunter (Apr 9, 2006)

What most people must real;ize, if we are human, we can not shoot our gear to the best of the gears ability. we have inserts that align to the center oif the shaft, if the insert is loose , no matter what we do, the insert(with tip)will not be centered in the shaft.That affects the arrow fligh. All we accomplish with squaring the shaft is to load the shaft fibers on impact so the shaft won't break. If your glue is strong enough you do not need insert contact to install.
You ever wonder why a dozen arrows won't impact the same place every time? you are the key.your mind sez $$$$$$ if i hit that shaft , you shoot and there is a miss.jm2cw


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## Nameless Hunter (Feb 10, 2007)

There's nothing mechanically wrong with the op's method. If he holds the arrow 5 degrees off plumb when he spins it then the arrow face will have a 5 degree bevel around the circumference.. If a graphite shaft has a 0.020" wall (just guessing here), the arrow's outer edge will be 0.0017" shorter than the inner edge. You won't even see the difference.


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## eventhorizon (Dec 12, 2012)

The point of the bevel is true but perhaps the consequence is missed. Would not the higher pressure on the smaller area of the shaft contacting the insert cause potential damage?

I'm not saying it would, just wondering.


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## Spurhunter (Dec 8, 2008)

You fellas would laugh at my arrow cutter. A block of wood clamped to my bench with a shallow hole for the nock end, another block of wood set away at desired length with a dremel flex head and stone cutting wheel, an eye shield made of clear plastic from an old juice bottle and my shop vac hose ty-wrapped to the cutter block to collect dust. Sets up in about 10 minutes and no hassle for the once in a blue moon chore of cutting arrows. Tears down for the other uses and stores away neatly too. As for square arrows, they spin true. Not sure there's a better test.


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## lc12 (Jul 30, 2009)

Just the time it takes to do all this makes me think my money was well spent on an arrow saw and L.A.S.T squaring tool.
But nice idea on the OP's part.


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## kerrye (Sep 1, 2010)

Spotshooter2 said:


> Yeah it is in the physics , if you don't hold something square and inline it isnt going to be square:sad:


You people have obviously never turned anything on a lathe. If the object you are cutting is spinning, you can hold your cutting instrument or abrasive at any angle and the cut will be square.


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## Jimbo45 (Dec 6, 2012)

kerrye said:


> You people have obviously never turned anything on a lathe. If the object you are cutting is spinning, you can hold your cutting instrument or abrasive at any angle and the cut will be square.


A stationary lathe and a handheld drill are not equal in this case.


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## bul9isco (Mar 14, 2013)

Why don't you just go to your local archery shop where they can cut them for nearly nothing?


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## Spurhunter (Dec 8, 2008)

bul9isco said:


> Why don't you just go to your local archery shop where they can cut them for nearly nothing?


$18 per dozen at the local shop. Why not just buy arrows already cut and built, why make a bow press, why make your own wrist sling, why sharpen your own broadheads, why tune your own bow....

This is the DIY area right?


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## stanlh (Jul 23, 2010)

kerrye said:


> You people have obviously never turned anything on a lathe. If the object you are cutting is spinning, you can hold your cutting instrument or abrasive at any angle and the cut will be square.


That is true if your cutting tool is moving and cutting perpendicular, 90 degrees, in relation to the length plane of the shaft you are cutting. If the cutting tool is brought across at an angle in relation to the length plane of the shaft then there will be an angle cut on the thickness of the shaft in your lathe. 

As someone pointed out with the OP's method there could be an angle, bevel, cut across the thickness of the arrow shaft if the drill and arrow are not held perfectly square, 90 degrees, to the abrasive , but even if the drill and shaft are held at a slight angle resulting in a beveled edge the end of the shaft and bevel would would be square in relation to the length of the shaft. That is, any high point resulting from cutting off the shaft would be ground down as the arrow shaft is ground down because only a single point in the arrow shaft would be contacting the abrasive at any given time. Even if a bevel is cut across the end of the thickness of the shaft it is going to be a very slight angle.

Now it occurs to me the point of squaring an arrow after cutting it to length is to insure that the insert is installed as square as possible in relation to the length of the arrow shaft, ie. in alignment with the shaft, so that the arrow flies true. An insert is a pretty close fit to the inside of an arrow, but there is some room for movement. So having a square end on the arrow shaft gives you the best chance of getting the insert installed as close to square and in perfect alignment with the arrow shaft. Squaring the end of the arrow is less about durability and more about alignment. Once the insert is glued into the shaft that is where the durability comes from. In other words even if the shaft has a slight bevel across its thickness on the end, meaning the full thickness of the end of the arrow shaft is not contacting the insert it will not affect the durability of the arrow as long as the glue line holds the insert in place. 

At least this is how I see it happening.


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

Some of the inflammatory comments here are straight up wrong and not helpful at all to this thread. 
"...subject my arrows to this torture" 
"...end up with that thing splintered and stuck in your leg"
And many from page one are just exaggerations in an attempt to make their position sound good. Come on. Really!? 
Reality is you are going to get something very close if you have the hole in the block close to square and there isn't a ton of play. All these "out of square" arguments aren't taking into account that the arrow is spinning. 

My money is if you took them to a machine shop with some finely calibrated measuring instruments things would be closer than we expect.

I plan to try this out and measure it against square and see the difference.


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## madarchery (May 28, 2003)

Agree the OP methods would work, and it is obvious many here have never used a lathe.


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## soaringeagle (Jun 2, 2008)

If you were to cut a 45 degree angle on the block and place it against the paper and use the op's method the shaft will have a 45 degree chamfer but the end of the shaft will be square to its length. So having the hole drilled square to the face of the block is unimportant.


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## CarbonTerry (Jan 8, 2003)

Semper Fi MOTU


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

When I said get it relatively square I was thinking of how the final looked. It would have very little chamfer and look close to a cut from a arrow saw. But that is less important than these guys going after this thread like making it sound like a horrible idea.


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## PetefromTn (Mar 21, 2013)

racer102 said:


> If you were 1/32 " out of plumb on the top in 28" that would make it appx .0396875 out of square or almost 3/64" over a .242 area thats alot out of square, might as well save a step and just put the insert in, your dremel is probably that close on the cut. You need to find away to hold it square to the surface. This all figuered that the surface you have the sandpaper is perfectly square and if it it's not the numbers could get worse. Keep on it thats how products come to life trial and error



Dunno if I did my math right here but after reading this I did a quick AutoCAD drawing of an arrow 28 inches long and. 240 wide and tilted it 1/32 of an inch at the top. Then took a measurement at the bottom off a reference plane and the distance from the reference edge to the highest part of the arrow body was less than .0003" I don't see how it could possibly be .03 like you are saying unless I completely missed the concept here. Honestly having done things like this before and had to make things perfectly square I think it would work okay. Probably not the best way to do it but as long as you did whatever necessary to ensure the arrow is as vertical as possible the amount of error should be pretty tight. Not sure what kinda error you get from an arrow saw but most things have some error especially if not aligned correctly. I know in my shop( I do CNC machine work and fabrication) we often have to find ways to make accurate cuts with less than perfect reference points and sometimes you just gotta get creative. Amazes me what some of the early machinists were able to accomplish with hand tools and files forget a mill or lathe. Peace

Pete


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## eaglecaps (Nov 4, 2009)

Not to sound inflammatory but just chop em off with a hatchet and call em good. Spend about one hundred hard earned dollars (your hard work or someone else's) on twelve of the highest quality arrows just to have the slightest chance that carbon fiber splinters could wind up severing an artery or a nerve. You sir or ma'am are nuts. I've read a lot of crazy things on this DIY forum but this really takes the cake. The manufacturers engineers provide specific instructions on how their shafts SHOULD be cut. They are not designed to handle radial torsion. Good luck and I almost hope I get banned.


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## stanlh (Jul 23, 2010)

Here is what Easton says about arrow cutting:
_"Cutting For All Shaft Types

Cut shafts to length using only a high-speed abrasive wheel cut-off tool designated for arrow shafts. Never use rotary tube cutters, a hacksaw or methods that can damage the tube and leave a rough cut.
After cutting lightly chamfer the inside of the shaft, just enough to remove any burrs.
Thoroughly clean the inside of the shaft with a cotton swab wetted with 91% to 99% isopropyl alcohol (not rubbing alcohol, which can contain oil).

CAUTIONS: Always wear a NIOSH approved dust mask and safety glasses when cutting any arrow shafts. Be sure to use a dust collector to vacuum up all of the carbon and/or aluminum dust when cutting arrow shafts"_

I have not been able to find anything about arrows "not designed to handle radial torsion". Can you elaborate?


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

eaglecaps said:


> Not to sound inflammatory but just chop em off with a hatchet and call em good. Spend about one hundred hard earned dollars (your hard work or someone else's) on twelve of the highest quality arrows just to have the slightest chance that carbon fiber splinters could wind up severing an artery or a nerve. You sir or ma'am are nuts. I've read a lot of crazy things on this DIY forum but this really takes the cake. The manufacturers engineers provide specific instructions on how their shafts SHOULD be cut. They are not designed to handle radial torsion. Good luck and I almost hope I get banned.


So good of you to add your intelligent insight here. I hope the mods take you up on your offer to be banned. Maybe you could do us all a favor and just quit archerytalk on your own.


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## Smoknnca (Sep 13, 2011)

ericwhyne said:


> You don't need to tighten the chuck onto the shaft or knock... Just enough to get it to spin quickly. Don't press down at all, the weight of the arrow onto the sandpaper is enough.
> 
> It doesn't matter if you hold it perfectly vertical, that's where the physics comes in.... The spinning shaft will square itself on the sand paper...


Lol or bevel the edge but yes it will be uniform due to the spinning.


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## eaglecaps (Nov 4, 2009)

Consider it done. I'm done with you idiots. What spine do need, blah blah blah. Good luck fellas!


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

eaglecaps said:


> Consider it done. I'm done with you idiots. What spine do need, blah blah blah. Good luck fellas!


One final intelligent comment! Hopefully his word is more reliable than his insight.


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## Arrowwood (Nov 16, 2010)

I want to know where he got "twelve of the highest quality arrows" for a hundred bucks..


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## *tim* (Sep 3, 2011)

Lancaster archery only charges .25 an arrow cut to any length.


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

Arrowwood said:


> I want to know where he got "twelve of the highest quality arrows" for a hundred bucks..


"twelve of the highest quality arrows" is eaglecaps' exaggeration of the original post. He seems to like to make stuff up.


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## Spurhunter (Dec 8, 2008)

$0 per arrow cut to any length in my garage on my bench with a homemade piece of junk DIY dremel contraption and....the arrows spin true. $95TYD for a dozen new GT pros here on AT when you hit the classies right.  That's why I cut them myself.


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## Scojen7 (Feb 15, 2013)

Having been a Tool & Die maker for over 40 years the Op's method is unique but his observations about the squareness of the shaft are spot on go ahead kid keep on keeping on if it works for you. The naysayers obviously do not understand the implied math.


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## Kev3D (Apr 12, 2013)

I think what most are not realizing is the OP said it worked for him. So with that being said I think I would just say congrats on an inventive way to save a little money and still get the job done.


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## PettyBowright (Feb 1, 2014)

All this has helped me, ( good & bad). I think I'll use a metabo saw, blocks, and emory board. 
Thanks for the ideas


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## Tunaboy (Oct 3, 2004)

I agree that I would not do this to my arrows. You can buy a decent arrow saw for $100. Fast, easy and I am very confident that arrows will be identical. I am the cheapest and biggest DYI guy and I have an arrow saw. You can always sell a used arrow saw if you don't shoot anymore.


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## redneck-archery (Jan 8, 2014)

when I only have a couple arrows to cut I have always used a fine toothed hacksaw BUT I only cut in one direction not back & forth. if you are gentle & rotate your arrow it cuts just fine with NO splintering. I have done this for several years & have never had an arrow explode or serve an artery or whatever else these idiots have come up with. great idea OP. that will help me square mine up a little better. and I used that $100 that I saved on an arrow saw & bought " twelve of the highest quality arrows " lol. lighten up people, to each his own.


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## USMC TBone (Jul 25, 2014)

I think the OP's idea is pretty ingenious and creative. Definately an outside the box idea. He also mentions that these arrows are for his recurve and maybe they don't need to be as tight of a tolerance as those for a compound. His method seems sound, he's using a high speed cut off tool to cut the arrows and then he's essentially created his own squaring tool. It may not be as elegant as the ones you can buy, but it seems to get the job done. The only thing I'd worry about is using the drill on the nock end of the arrow, and torquing the chuck too tight and possibly damaging the arrow if you're not careful. Also, if you put too much downward pressure on the arrow when squaring it you could cause some stress to the arrow. BUT, that's why we always flex our carbons before shooting right? Our arrows are always taking stress with each shot. I'm amazed out how hard I've hit some arrows with another arrow yet its still fine. I mean I flex the crap out of it before i shoot it again, and if I hear the slightest cracking sound its gone. Arrows these days are tough and I think with the OP's method and a little care (i.e. don't man handle them) you can do a decent job cutting your arrows to size, your self without spending much extra money. Does it take a little longer than an arrow saw whether homemade or commercial? I'm sure it does but some of us don't have an extra $100 lying around to buy one. I've got a few old arrows at home I think I want to try this method on. I'd at least practice on a few before doing it to new ones.


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## CarbonTerry (Jan 8, 2003)

Right on USMC Tbone! Try it and see. I have to occasionally square up some small aluminum tubes. I chuck them in my mill and use a file on one side only to square the spinning tubes perfectly. There may be a slight (.005) difference in length but that is not important to me.
Semper Fi


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## OhWell (Aug 21, 2013)

nuts&bolts said:


> Fixed blade arrow saw (not the chop saw style).
> 
> Take a light scoring cut by rotating the shaft, while lightly touching the surface of the arrow to the blade.
> When your scoring cut goes completely around the arrow shaft,
> ...



This right here works even with simple home built arrow cutting jigs !!! I work with carbon fiber in many forms for a living and this is by far the best way to deal with tubes.


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## buknrut (Nov 26, 2016)

hmmm...not sure about that one


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## caspian (Jan 13, 2009)

CarbonTerry said:


> There may be a slight (.005) difference in length but that is not important to me.


I recently saw an example of Nano Pro points being snapped at the base of the point shank neck due to an angled cut on the shaft (produced by a poor arrow cutting saw arrangement).

people may do whatever they wish but I will continue to cut my arrows on a proper saw that produces a dead square cut, which renders "arrow squaring" devices unnecessary.


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## xd4584 (Dec 10, 2013)

T_well said:


> People it is physics! The end will be square because the arrow is spinning. Any offset is corrected because the entire circumference of the arrow tip visits the same point of offset. However, offset can vary the length minutely from the measured cut and even vary from arrow to arrow. Racer102's math is probably right; the same priciples can be used to figure out how much shorter the arrow will be given a certain out of plumb setting.


Thank you for beating me to saying this!


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## xd4584 (Dec 10, 2013)

caspian said:


> CarbonTerry said:
> 
> 
> > There may be a slight (.005) difference in length but that is not important to me.
> ...


I would be willing to bet that your saw does not cut perfectly square


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## pomorski1 (Oct 21, 2016)

Use a tiny file to cut the arrows and square them after, done it plenty of times. 


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## LethalParadox (Dec 1, 2016)

Nice


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## mikx (Nov 7, 2016)

Nothing cuts perfectly square. The main challenge is to make a clean cut with a high speed saw, as to not split carbon fibers too much. Then just use a squaring tool or jig.


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