# D-loop and brass nocking point?



## KINETIC_NRG (Jan 29, 2006)

I was just reading about the worst tuning mistakes and someone mentioned that it was a problem to have the brass nocking point inside if the d-loop above the arrow nock. I am new to bow setup and when I bought my Hoyt Powertec the shop had the two preinstalled. What are the concerns if any? 

Thanks in advance for any info.
N.R.G


----------



## shadowdrak (May 21, 2005)

The main concern about having the a brass nock inside the D-loop is that when you go to draw back with an arrow nocked, the angle of the brass nock will change (won't be horizontal but at an oblique angle) and this will push against your nock.

I would advise you to just get rid of the brass nocks (you'll gain more speed and you really don't need these on here) when using a D-loop. Just wax the loop as you put it on and use a pair of needle nose pliers to tighten the loop up once you have it on the string and you'll be good to go.


----------



## xibowhunter (Mar 18, 2003)

the whole point of a d loop is so the nock won't get "pinched" between the nock point and the release.if there are two nock points inside the d loop,imo that kinda defeats the purpose of having a d loop.the top knot of the d loop can serve as your nock point.


----------



## XP35 (Oct 11, 2005)

Using a loop without any nocking points can cause nock pinch issues, too, like lifting an arrow off the rest before it reaches full draw or tuning issues. You can tie on nock points above and below the arrow's nock (some people prefer one) with the loop's knots on the outside of them. It eliminates the chance of pinch altogether. And it makes it easier to tie on another loop when it's time to change because your nock points are already there.


----------



## MKD (Feb 8, 2003)

If you think you need something inside your loop do it this way. Tie a nock point inside your d loop


----------



## jjc155 (Feb 1, 2005)

I do like XP35. A tied nock above and below the arrow. Keeps the pinch down and is a snap when tying on a new loop. Plus there is way less speed lose with the tied nocks then the brass one.

J-


----------



## KINETIC_NRG (Jan 29, 2006)

Thanks again for the replies.
If there is only one above the arrow nock, is there always a pinch problem? I have not had alot of time to shoot anywhere but in the basement at 10 yards, but I have not had any problem with the arrow lifting off of my NAP QT1000 rest and the bow seems to shoot better than the shooter. Whenever I feel like I made a good shot the arrow is near the black bulls eye on my Morrell Yellow Jacket bag target(apx 1/2 inch).


----------



## ursonvs (Sep 19, 2003)

there is a certain "pro shop" in my old town that swears by the double brass nock inside the loop setup. i effectionately know them as "d-loop brakes".


dumbest thing done that i know of right next to a tube peep which they install also.

use the descriptions the other guys show, that is the better way.


----------



## Goldengoose (Feb 13, 2004)

Other than the lose of speed, wouldn't the concept be the same. Whether it is a brass nock or a tied in nocking point the end result seems like it would be the same. Please explain to me how it would be different.


----------



## XP35 (Oct 11, 2005)

A tied nocking point is lower in profile, smaller in diameter and soft. A brass nock point is thicker, larger and hard. If the bowstring is at an angle a brass nock point is more likely to "bite" into the nock, where a couple knots are ulikely to make contact, or if they do, have little effect on arrow flight. I realize a loop is supposed to help keep that portion of the bowstring vertical, but it doesn't altogether. There is some angle to the string between the knots. Also, it's generally only an issue with short AtA bows.


----------



## Goldengoose (Feb 13, 2004)

So is it's the same concept, just a more efficient way of getting there. I see. Thanks for the advice.


----------

