# Red oak board bow challenge?



## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Just putting some feelers out there to see who might be interested in an idea a friend and I came up with a couple years ago. Recently I was asked for a simple D self bow by my future brother in law, which got me thinking simple board bow, which got me thinking of the challenge. The challenge originally started when a friend and I were having fun trying to make hunting bows for deer season out of oak boards, and turned into "who could make the coolest bow". He always had me beat on creativity and finish because I went for trying to get the heaviest selfbow I could out of a red oak board, so skill level never was really an issue. It all came down to who was the most creative.

The rules would be simple: using a red oak board from your local hardware store, you have a month to build the best shooting, or best looking, or most exotic, or most interesting, or most fun selfbow you can. We'd have until the start of April to build, then I'd make another thread with everyone's entrees for folks to vote on as their favorite. Winner gets to know he made the neatest red oak bow, and everyone gets to see neat bows and have some fun carving. It's not so much a real competition, but something fun and simple to do to beat the winter dolldrums and to see who's the most creative this time of year. Kind of like a grown up pinewood derby  No limits beyond it having to be a red oak board selfbow, and you can make as many as you'd like to enter. Again, winner gets the most creative red oak board bow:wink:

I figured if folks were interested, we could post pictures of progress to help keep the thread going to, help get the creative juices flowing and like I said- just have some fun.

So what do you folks say? Any interested folks?


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

well im already building one but mine will have fiberglass lams, does that disqualify it?


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## drewsumrell (Dec 4, 2011)

Sounds like a fun challenge to me. I just finished my first self bow, but would be up for doing another one. I think you'll need to carefully define a self bow for everyone. Let's do it!


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## guyver (Jan 3, 2012)

I'm in. I vote nay on fiberglass, but I think some sorts of backing should be allowed. Cool idea, reminds me of primitive archers monthly/bi-monthly contest


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

guyver said:


> I'm in. I vote nay on fiberglass, but I think some sorts of backing should be allowed. Cool idea, reminds me of primitive archers monthly/bi-monthly contest


I agree, no fiberglass on this one guys. It's a good bit pricier and changes the performance/action of the bow completely. Let's keep it simple and fun. Soft backings are allowed (cloth, cables, sinew, what have you) for durabilities sake. I'm a little torn about wooden backings though. They can add performance, but no where near the way fiberglass would. Still, I'd like to try and keep this simple, so maybe no laiminates at all? What do you guys think, anybody thinking of doing a multi-lam wood bow?

I have some running to do tomorrow, I'll try to make it to Busy Beaver to get a board or two. Need some handle wood for a new Shortbow anyway.


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

Ill do a cloth backing instead just for this haha


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## woodpecker1 (Sep 6, 2012)

im in!but the first cracking noise i hear im out ! im in need of this with all the horible clear glass ive been getting.


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## drewsumrell (Dec 4, 2011)

Based on what I've learned in recent months, a self bow is made from a single piece of wood. If it's backed, it's a backed bow. But you make the call. Just so everyone is on the same page.


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

drewsumrell said:


> Based on what I've learned in recent months, a self bow is made from a single piece of wood. If it's backed, it's a backed bow. But you make the call. Just so everyone is on the same page.


Board bows put you in a different situation with grain cuts and rings. Some kind of backing is generally needed, though a soft backing like Kegan stated would keep things more equal. If it's as far away as April, I might be game.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

This is all supposed to be for fun, I don't see the deadline being a big deal or the classification being an issue. I just figured that without fiberglass all the bows will basically act the same in that what ever backing you want to put on it, if you over stress the belly you'll get set, overstress the back and it breaks- fiberglass does all the work in a composite.

For the sake of clarity here are the rules!

1. Bow must be made from red oak board (size of the board is not important)
2. Bow can only be backed with soft backings (cloth, cable, sinew) no wood or fiberglass
3. All bows you want to submit (as many as you want) must be done by April 1; that gives us all four weeks to make some red oak sticks
4. I'll start another thread for finished bows. When you post, include as many details as possible- how you made it, how it shoots, your experience level, everything you can think of about it. Length, draw weight, and draw length are minimum though. A picture of the bow unbraced, braced, and fully drawn are minimum.

I think that's simple enough, the rest is up to you.


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

Good rules! ill be modifying my design for speed


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## guyver (Jan 3, 2012)

Agreed, good rules. Already bought a good looking board from HD

Could we start a fund or donation to the victor? Just to sweeten the pot. I'll offer a Flemish string, custom made (by me) for the winner (cont US).


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Guyver, that's not a bad idea, although I was sort of hoping to keep this more about the fun and less about the winning, to help get folks who might not have made a bow feel less intimidated.


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## SmittyNwess (Feb 2, 2013)

I will be in on this , although i have very little shooting experience, (about two solid week's) I was tempted to build my own . This will be a good reason for me to learn bow making and widen my range of wood working skills . 

I think the only issue i will have is tillering. Also backing 

if i'm not done with my bow by the 1st i would still like to post in the thread. My job will be changing my hours in a week so i really only have one week to get all the major work done .


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Head over to my website in my signature, I cover backing and tillering (they're really very simple, you'll be fine )


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

is there anything i can use as a long string? i dont have any b50 left


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Parachute cord or camp cord from Walmart. Anything tough really.

Got a 1 x 4 from Busy Beaver. I'll be cutting the ends off for handles but I'm looking to get 3 bows from it... we'll see!


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## MacIndust (Feb 7, 2012)

I might be in. We have a baby due in mid April so this could be my last chance to do something like this for a while!


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

Im making a small childs bow from a meter stick as tiller practice im not sure if its oak but ill post it anyway it will be a hillstyle


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## woodpecker1 (Sep 6, 2012)

here is an oak limb with tip overlay of actionwood.its a glass bow i just finished






but im thinking these would be cool on a board bow. the limb in the pic still needs sanded before finish but everything gos with oak. ive only madea handful of boardbows but ive never mad one without overlays do you guys use them?


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

Ill be using them if i can find a good piece of wood


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Depending on the string/weight of the bow I use overlays. I'm looking to see if I have any B50 left for one- so no overlays on it. If I don't, FF and overlays for everyone  Probably scraps of hickory for overlays.

Weekend was a busy (good busy) so I'll be starting here either this afternoon in between glue ups or Wednesday after sanding and finish work.

I'm toying with the idea of two ideas. The first would be a "how fast can you make a good hunting bow" style D bow. The other a more "artistic" stretched Plains style bow. Light weight to not overstress the back. My father has been hinting at wanting a selfbow, so I make make it around 35-40# and give it to him for a father's day gift?


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## bowman29092 (Oct 16, 2012)

What size boards do ya'll use? I don't even know where to start on this one but so many ideas flowing I gotta give it a shot


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

well mine broke due to a bad blade that was warped, sent me into the board cant fix it, gotta get to the store see if i can find another one


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

I'm working on a 3/4" square piece for a light weight "show bow", a 1 1/2" wide 6' piece and a 1 1/4" 5' piece. I'm hoping to get the smaller ones shaped this week. I'll have pictures!


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## takefive (Aug 19, 2012)

I'd be in, but I just finished my very first board bow last week, and my daughter liked it so much that she wants me to make a lighter version of it for her. I found an easy to follow build along for a simple red oak pyramid bow, but found out that my local chain (Menards) carried hickory. After hearing how tough hickory is, I decided to go with it as a first timer. I'll be following this thread because I'm really interested to see what kind of designs you guys come up with. Already planning my next one after I finish the one for my daughter. And I'm starting to understand why some guys call themselves bow addicts. Good luck on your bows!


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Today I registered to "Archery Talk" and bought a Red Oak board. Looking forward to a fun build of a self bow (with an epoxy on Red Oak handle section). Plan is for a 68" long 2" wide combo of Mare Heath and Sudbury design elements. I have made a bow like this from a Home Depot board of Birch and it works just fine. Pics at:

http://veraxsevice.net/arch/redoak/

I have been lurking here and on other archery forums. I have learned a lot from you folks. Thank you!!


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Sounds like a plan, Wseward!

I should have time this afternoon to start #2, the non-show-bow. The board is a lot lighter than I hoped, and the grain isn't perfect. I'm thinking I might forgo my oringinal plan and simply design a nice hunting D bow with stiff tips and a little tempering. Take my time and dress it up all pretty like instead? Pics later today of whatever progress I make.


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Hi folks, Day 2 was epoxy on one "overlay" (10" riser/handle section of Red Oak). Center of blank/stave had a big knot...so put on another section with a big knot just to be even?

kegan, good luck with the multiple bows. Not being in a hurry sounds good to me. 

Pics at:
http://veraxservice.net/arch/redoak/
Go Red Oak!


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## UrbanDeerSlayer (Feb 10, 2012)

This is interesting. Haven't been on AT in a few weeks. I have wondered how efficient could a self bow be, in other words, can a simple board how be crafted and throw an arrow nearly as quickly as a modern laminated fiberglass bow? I have ZERO experience in bowyering but maybe I'll get in on this. What kind of quality in Red Oak am I looking for. In other words what thickness of Red Oak and what should I look for in the grain when I'm at Home Depot?


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## ChadMR82 (Sep 22, 2009)

This will be fun to watch! Still getting settled into new house so I wont be able to participate. This should be a yearly event.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Here's bow #1. I opted out of finishing the little 3/4" square for now. This one is going to be for my fiance's brother. I rushed tillering a bit, and wasn't paying attention to draw weight. Right now it's around 60" ntn, 40# at 29" and has about 1 3/4" set. I want to get it out to 40# at 31-32". I'll slightly recurve the tips (just for looks) and then temper the belly into DEFLEX. He wants a bow that can be worn across his back (hence the "show bow") so deflex is our friend! He doesn't need a speed demon. I'm hoping to have it look eye catching. So far, time invested in this bow is around two hours. Man I'm working slowly 

Now for the next one...

This board is very, very light and not particularly elastic, so I'm not going to bother with the stretched Plains style. I will be going for a basic flatbow with Eiffel-tower tips and some reflex. I'm shooting for 68-70" ntn, 40# at 29". Something spunky but comfortable 

Tony, at the same weight, depending on the design, you'll lose about 10-30 fps with a good selfbow compared to your Omega. The design I'm doing next will be as fast as I can get out of a red oak board, it's a 6' long section that's 1 1/2" by 3/4" (a basic red oak 1x2), so you'll be able to shoot it at the club when I get it going (just give me a couple days!)


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## UrbanDeerSlayer (Feb 10, 2012)

Cool. Im gonna pick up a board!!!


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Hi, Would have added something sooner, however was working on a bacon cheese burger. Fingers off the keyboard please! Quickly added some pics and pics with comments about wood selection. Go for horz. or vert. rings on the end of the board. To much angle
to the rings is not so good, unless a smooth symmetrical arc. Do not want the rings stepping up or down out of the top or edges of the board. Stepping of the rings shows up as spikes on the corners, lines bending up and down out of the side of the board. Want a board with ring lines running straight down to side of the board. Stepping shows as islands or peninsulas on the plan form of the board. Just some QUICK comments. Very complicated subject at times. See the pics at:

http://veraxservice.net/arch/redoak/

First pic in the lower section is Red Oak bow build safety meeting time; a push stick for table saw and chop saw use can be a good idea?

kegan, nice #1!!


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## UrbanDeerSlayer (Feb 10, 2012)

Day 1: Picked out 6 ft 1x2 board, looks to have nice straight grain throughout. Laid out the basic bow. Cut basic shape, glued on a piece of scrap red oak to beef up the riser, and did a little floor tillering. 

Tomorrow I will shape the riser a little bit and then on to removing some meat from the belly of the bow.


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## guyver (Jan 3, 2012)

Well hit my first major hiccup and I'm not sure if I should start a fire and start another bow or go ahead and finish this one. 

I was in the process of adding ipe tip overlays and was about to start shaping the grip and shelf. I had made temporary nocks further out than what I had been using. Once I finished the nocks I didn't think to make my string any longer and braced the bow higher than before. Here's a pic of the resulting fretting/chrysals. They are highlighted with a pencil.








There are also some frets (at least one) on the other limb

So, should I move on or go ahead and finish what I got???


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

Guy, it's toast. Sorry man, it happens. I'd blame it on that cheap-azz wood at the Alvin HD store  Seriously, I doubt it was the slightly higher brace that did it if it was already tillered out. The extra draw probably just brought them out more prominent - they are compression related and progressive in forming. They likely started in the initial phase of tillering in tight/flat areas.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Well, I finally got a few minutes to work on #2. I took a grand total of 15 minutes to draw it out and cut it out on the bandsaw. It came out pretty nicely floor tillered. It feels like it should come right in around 40# at 29" if I take it easy. Here are the specs:

It's 71" over all, 1 1/2" wide from the end of the fades to just past mid limb. Tapering from there to 1/4" tips. The handle is 1" by 3/4", and the limbs are 1/2" thick for the inner 2/3 then tapering to 5/8" thick at the tips (to keep them stiff for when I make the outer limbs concave in width taper). No extra handle. I glued some hickory overlays on to hold the string since the tips are so narrow. The grain isn't perfect and the wood is light, so I'll round it and tiller it out light. The board had some natural deflex, which I don't mind. I just want to make a nice comfortable bow with this one without much fuss. I'll probably temper in a couple inches of reflex though.

I'm toying with the idea of picking up another 1x3 tomorrow when I go to ship a bow in between glue ups. I want to try this same bow a little shorter (66") and of course wider (probably leave it the full 2 1/2" and just thin the limbs down to around 3/8"). Should be fun


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## SmittyNwess (Feb 2, 2013)

Ok since I switched back to nights I have had more time to look for a board to make the bow with and I have run into two issues. Since I work at Lowes (same type of store as HD ) I check the wood before I put it out. I either find crooked grains which are pretty much diagnal or I find perfect tight grains vertical but on a bent board. 

Idk much about building a bow but can I use either of these types of boards ? The best two I found had slight bends in the middle of the boards but I'm unsure if I can compromise for this type of a build


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Grain is all that matters. Both of the bows I am working on are crooked boards. It's not a big deal so long as the grain is straight and strong.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

kegan said:


> I have some running to do tomorrow, I'll try to make it to Busy Beaver to get a board or two. Need some handle wood for a new Shortbow anyway.


SWEET!:shade:


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## UrbanDeerSlayer (Feb 10, 2012)

OK. Been putting alot of time into this...... "Go Hard, or Go Home", thats the code that I live by, LOL! This is my first attempt ever at building a bow. 

So far, I was able to temper and draw the bow back very gradually with my bow scale (a cheap luggage scale purchased at Wal-Mart). Drew back very smoothly to 48#@27" without any hiccups. No cracks, freckles etc.... So far so good. I then decided to shape the handle as I glued on an extra piece of oak to beef up the riser mass and allow me to shape a grip and shelf. (By the way Gorilla glue Epoxy that comes in a dual tube with plunger is good stuff!). Then before I called it a night, I tempered a little reflex into the limbs with a heat gun. Hopefully tonigth I'll be able to shape the ends of the limbs and tips a little bit. If all goes well I'll be putting an arrow through her by the end of the week!


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Started another one today, I'm likeing this one a lot more than the narrow one. Poor narrow bow might not get much attention after this!

It's 67" over all length.

Width tapers from 2 1/2" at the fades to 2" at midlimb to 1/4" tips. The outer limbs will get an Eiffel tower taper during tillering.

Thickness is 3/8" to mid limb tapering to 1/2" at the tips, with the last 6" tapered to 5/16" at the very tips. 

Handle is 3/4" thick, 1 1/4" wide with 2" long fades.

Gluing the tips on now, hopefully I'll be tillering tonight


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Still in...two small problems though. 1) the board I picked has some real soft grain, especially in the tips where I now wish I had gone still wider (Paddle shape almost). 2) When cutting in the thickness flow with a skill saw I crossed the line on the blind side of the cut on what I had selected to be the upper limb. Opps! Have been able to get back a smooth tiller curve after the initial bent tip on the over cut limb. A little worried as when I rasp the tips (which has come to a complete stop and the tips will remain rectangular just as they are now) the stave I selected now feels and sounds hollow. The bow is now on the tiller board getting a little set/"string follow" just in case. Still moving forward. Will upload some pics later.


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Day 4 was cut the new bevels in the back and more forward on the tillering.
Lots of rasp, file and scrape.

Specs:
67 3/8 x 2 x 15/16
Start thick flow: 3/4 at end of riser - 9/16 at mid limb - 3/8 at tip (1/2" thick nocks)
Planned pull: 35# at 30".


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Looking good!

I got the wide bow tillered out, it came in at 30# at 28". I'm going to temper in around 3" of reflex and hopefully boost the weight to about 40#. Sorry, didn't get time for pictures today.


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## bowman29092 (Oct 16, 2012)

This is what I had at the time, I only have a draw knife and a circular saw. I had the grip perfect for my hand (which I didn't get a picture of) but when thinning out the limbs, the sucker snapped at the handle. I started working on another board but got frustrated and decided to take a break. Haven't gotten back on the horse yet. The board that broke had almost 10 hours in it! UGH!


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

im back in i found a nice solid board that im going to work with


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Well, I was hoping to show pictures of the new bow today but I got greedy and tried to heat in too much reflex with the reverse stringing method. It's uneven, and a bit crooked. I'll clamp it to a board and heat it when I get a chance. Might not be until next week though, the next few days are going to be pretty busy.


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

yeah im not winning this, but im having alot of fun watching glue dry hahaha


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

fisher2 said:


> yeah im not winning this, but im having alot of fun watching glue dry hahaha


The only "losers" are the guys not having fun


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Positive thinking and moving forward. Got the string from the template bow on today. Will leave it strung for hours or even overnight to induce some set/"string follow". Hope to be shooting tomorrow.


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## UrbanDeerSlayer (Feb 10, 2012)

wseward said:


> Positive thinking and moving forward. Got the string from the template bow on today. Will leave it strung for hours or even overnight to induce some set/"string follow". Hope to be shooting tomorrow.
> View attachment 1621643


Looks good. I have a question as I am new to this bowyering stuff. Why are you trying to induce set/string follow into your bow? What is the benefit of this? I would think this would lessen the power stroke of the bow, but maybe it provides more stability???


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

some people say that string follow bows have less thump of handshock


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

fisher2 said:


> some people say that string follow bows have less thump of handshock


Set (total movement of tips from original position to final spot, and string follow, just the amount of tip deflex from straight, reduce stored energy. Less stored energy, less energy that can be left to produce handshock (if the bow is not efficient).

It also reduces the chance of breakage some by breaking the wood in early, and reduces the inconsistncy of "shooting a bow in".


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## ChadMR82 (Sep 22, 2009)

This fun to watch! I plan on trying one this summer once things settle down a little. Keep up the good work guys! I think maybe everyone should see who can get a deer or turkey first with their new creations!


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

well mines bending floor tiller stage, looks like i can bend it to brace maybe a tad more, soon ill have to get a longstring set up on her


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

ChadMR82 said:


> This fun to watch! I plan on trying one this summer once things settle down a little. Keep up the good work guys! I think maybe everyone should see who can get a deer or turkey first with their new creations!


How about small game? I think hitting one of those little buggers would be a real testament to your new bow!

I mean come on... a deer is such a big, easy target!:wink:


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

this is my very unoffical showing of first tiller its not clear but it shows the left limb is a bit stiff

thats 25# of lead on each side so i have plenty of wood to work with


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

fisher2 said:


> View attachment 1622056
> this is my very unoffical showing of first tiller its not clear but it shows the left limb is a bit stiff
> 
> thats 25# of lead on each side so i have plenty of wood to work with


OK, got to ask  How do you do that tiller check without crashing your bow to the floor? Two people and good timing? Or is that a 3-man job ?


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

this is all done by a barefoot ******* filled with bad ideas, one man job, as i put one or take one off my other hand is keeping the board even on other side


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## UrbanDeerSlayer (Feb 10, 2012)

SNAP!!!!!!



I quit. Leaving the bowyering to my bud Kegan.


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Shooting today...from 30-33# at 26". Shooting good. Tomorrow is build a new string and shoot at 30".








Hi "UDS", I think this covers it:
"It also reduces the chance of breakage some by breaking the wood in early, " I picked a board with very soft early wood and do not want to go through any more "laminate"/rings. Today's work involved a lot of feathering/tapering "laminate".


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## UrbanDeerSlayer (Feb 10, 2012)

A little more complicated than I anticipated. Good Luck to y'all.


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

This has me worried since you had it at 27" what made it break?


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## Hank D Thoreau (Dec 9, 2008)

UrbanDeerSlayer said:


> SNAP!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> I quit. Leaving the bowyering to my bud Kegan.


My first attempt was aborted when I lost too much weight and still had a hinge to remove. I had Milton Cable make me one that would not do what yours did under the force of my 32 inch draw. It is a hair under 75 inches from nock to nock. Specs from that bow will go into my next attempt. I plan to drop the weight about 10 pounds, into the low 40's at 32 inches. The bummer is that I had a really good piece of wood and I was getting a really nice bend. I just thinned it out too much.


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Guys, if my bow breaks...and mine could easily be next...I will make another with hickory and/or maple next. These are a great help:
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/the-traditional-bowyer-s-bible-volume-1.html
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/the-traditional-bowyer-s-bible-volume-2.html
There is also a volume 3 and 4 that iI have yet to check out.
Then again if mine breaks or not I may go look for another, better piece of Red Oak before the month is over.
There is always next time.
Go Red Oak board build!


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## UrbanDeerSlayer (Feb 10, 2012)

fisher2 said:


> This has me worried since you had it at 27" what made it break?


Well I initially had it aT 48#@27", roughly shaped and tillered. Then I had this genius idea to temper some reflex into the limbs. Once I tempered in about 1 1/2" of reflex it jumped to [email protected]". So I started to work of material and was checking it gently. Well.......pulled it back 20" and it was 45# and I thought this is going well...... then suddenly SNAP, wood fragments go flying..... luckily I was pulling the bow towards me horizontally as I had the string hooked onto a scale on my work bench so all the shrapnel flew away from me, LOL! But it was a REALLY nice piece of wood too.... but OH well...... I don't have the time to start another one right now.


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

I might not finish by april 1st but im spending ALL of monday on it haha


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## takefive (Aug 19, 2012)

Wishing that I would have gotten into this now seeing the enthusiasm of the bow builders. I'm just finishing my second board bow; a hickory longbow for my daughter. Kegan, would you mind if I post a picture of it when it's done? Really glad to see a thread on building on this forum and I hope there will be more of them. I'm totally hooked on it and already planning out my next one.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Guys, this is all about fun. THere are no real dead lines, no real contest. I was planning on gathering a gallery of pictures for next month but I've already gotten three "extension" requests so hey- let's just keep going as long as we can!

The "challenge" remains the same: what's the coolest bow you can make from a red oak board? Post what you have, old, new, what ever you want!

Let's have fun!


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Moving Forward.
The SR-71 pilot thought of all the troops shooting at the neck region of their profile targets. Then he drew the new bow several times looked at the very pointy end and tied on leaves of the new arrow. Next it was check the side arm.

As the pilot moved forward into the dense brush slowly, thoughts were on getting across the grid and sheltering momentarily at point x.

Never know you may have to make a quick bow...even in your imagination! ;-)

Rig up!


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

I vote for bi monthly builds it dont take too long 15 minutes a day should be plenty


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## guyver (Jan 3, 2012)

takefive said:


> Really glad to see a thread on building on this forum and I hope there will be more of them.


Second...primitive bows barely exists here for some reason...step in the right direction seeing interest in this thread


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

well i took my bow to full draw way to early seemed to be doing well bending on longstring 50# bag held off it bending pretty well just a tad stiff one limb, my bright idea? lets take it to full 29" draw!!! scaled in at 85-95# and i heard cracks, im pretty sure i have never let down that fast in my life( yes first full draw i drew it personally drew nice and smooth though well as smooth as those weights draw, im working slow and working on a 29" draw at 50# hopeful working those limbs out 30-40 times every time i remove wood, one limb is still stiff taking a break but i was able to make full draw, it didnt sound like wood cracking more like glue from riser which is fine im going to force more glue in and clamp it again


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

first tiller picture that doesnt include a horrible balance act!









right limb a little stiff that is drawing 63# at this it measures 30" on longstring


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

starting the short string with a measure and 45#


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

well its 48# at 22.5" but i brought it to full brace height!!!


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

ITS ALIVVEEE!!!! it shoots!!!!! ill try to get a vid soon


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

is there no edit button??? heres a bad vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLDXYBBHr38


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## takefive (Aug 19, 2012)

Way to go fisher2! That's a great feeling isn't it?!


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

i'll tell you after the shower right now im covered in sweat i now have a love hate relationship with handtools


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

also 1.15" of string follow and its tillered for 3 under (accidently haha)


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

heres my pictures!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8565306689/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8566403442/


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

AH...it is good to be back doing martial arts drills and breaking a sweat. After fogging up the saftey glasses, full face helmet and body armour came off.
Then continued to do sets of shot pulls on the bow string. Just before night fall put a light wipe of Minwax "Tung Oil Finish" on the belly then hung the
bow off a couple of hooks to keep the belly dry that night as the summer pattern Marine Layer came in. That was yesterday.

Today was more short pull shooting and string pull drills. Checked a string bag and pulled out other strings. Shot some more. Did more pull drills.
Next is light sanding, build a new string, and pull to 30" on Monday.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Way to go Fisher! Sounds like it has some spunk!

Weekend necessities are almost at an end. I have some work to do for customers' bows, but then I should be able to heat the bow into "straght temper" because I was greedy and didn't do it right. We'll see how it turns out


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## GPW (May 12, 2012)

Kegan , would it be “Fair” to do a little steam bending into some slight curves??? Don’t want to break any rules here , just have a strange idea ... wouldn’t be exactly a D longbow ...


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

I vote go for it its all in fun


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## GPW (May 12, 2012)

Yeah , but I don’t want to miss out on winning the Cadillac .... or was that another thread ? .... hahahahaha


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

Lol hopefully ill make another pretty soon tryingbfor heavier bow this time


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

GPW, I'd be hurt if you didn't- I was hoping someone would have at bending one


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## GPW (May 12, 2012)

... and it’s going to be asymmetrical too ... pushing the envelope here ... guess a cable’s out of the question eh ? ... apologies in advance...


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## irishhacker (Sep 4, 2011)

sent from my Linux mobile phone


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

Irish, that's a nice looking bow!


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## irishhacker (Sep 4, 2011)

Thank you.. it was a labor of love.. I got all the instructions from Kegan's website.. I gave the bow to my daughter. 
I made it 36# @28


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

I am a little late to the party, I have been working on a red oak bow for the last 2 weeks, a couple of hours at a time. I have it all tillered out and I am waiting on a string I ordered friday. Long stringed it with 5 inch brace and I am getting 46.2 lbs at 29 inches. (I am having trouble posting pics here at work)

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1977856


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## irishhacker (Sep 4, 2011)

irishhacker said:


> Thank you.. it was a labor of love.. I got all the instructions from Kegan's website.. I gave the bow to my daughter.
> I made it 36# @28


forgot to add... I made the string too .. Got the instructions for the jig and string making from Kegan's site as well.


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Specs:
~~~~~~
68 1/16 (67 3/8 n2n) x 2 x 15/16 (1/2" thick nocks).
Pull: 35# at 30".





















Warren Seward


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

these are all very nice.... makes mine look bad hahaha


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

I just got home to my computer. These are some pics of the bow and my ******* way of tillering. I use the rachet strap to hold the wieghts and slowly crank the strap shorter and shorter to increase the wieght and draw length. This way I never pull more than the desired draw wieght for the bow. (the total wieght on the strap is the draw wieght that I aiming for) If the wieghts come off the floor before I get to the length I want , I just take a little wood off each limb and hang it again. Repeat over and over until I get where I want to be.


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

wseward said:


> Specs:
> ~~~~~~
> 68 1/16 (67 3/8 n2n) x 2 x 15/16 (1/2" thick nocks).
> Pull: 35# at 30".
> ...


I love the color of that wood!


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Doing great guys! Some really beautiful bows going here!


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

May not be done on this next one by deadline time.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Got my selfbow straightened, I have some truck problems and customers' bows to work on but I'll try to get a few pics when I can.


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

String came today!!!!!!!!! Here is my bow braced. If I put my fist on the handle with my thumb up the string hits just above my thumb joint. Measuring from the back of the handle its 5, 3/4 inches to the string. From the front of the bow to the string its 7, 1/4 inches. I am going to have to shave alittle more wood off the limbs friday and saturday before I head off to work. I am interested to see where it pulls 45lbs at. I draw 30 inches so I am sure I am going to have to weaken the limbs. I built it with a populor waffer in the handle for looks. This is the first bow I have ever made so I don't know if that was a bad idea or not.


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## takefive (Aug 19, 2012)

Tiller looks good on your bow, hawkdriver. Nice work. I broke down and bought a red oak board over the weekend. Just started tillering it last night.


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

Thanks, and good luck takefive! I have really enjoyed making this thing. I haven't even finished this one and I find myself making plans for others in the future. It is addicting.


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## GPW (May 12, 2012)

Just curious , what kind of average limb thickness are you guys coming up with... ? Had another idea for a 6’ Pyramid RO longbow ... Run the oak board through the thickness planer to about the right thickness, glue on the handle and tips ... then you’d just have to do a little “touch up“ tillering ... Just a thought ...


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

GPW, it's going to be width dependent as well. From what I've seen, some are running wide and thinner and some thin and thicker. The only issue I can see you will have is handle popping off if just glued to one dimensional thickness.


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## takefive (Aug 19, 2012)

I have really enjoyed making this thing. I haven't even finished this one and I find myself making plans for others in the future. It is addicting.

It is addicting for sure. Even if I'm dead tired after work, I just about run to my basement to work on my bow and the time spent on it just flies by. The tillering process stresses me out, but otherwise I enjoy everything that goes into making a bow.


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## GPW (May 12, 2012)

Sanford, I was just thinking with a “bend in the handle" D’ -ish' Red Oak bow (or whatever wood ) , with more or less a “pad" glued to it (could be a Leather pad ? ) for a handle .. bow parallel in width through the handle area, then fading into the pyramid ... Just “experimental” of course... 
* We’ve made so many Traditional bows in the past now all I can get excited about is the experimental stuff ... different woods , different methods , and now asymmetrical bows (Hidatsa style ) , which I find to shoot BETTER than the standard bows (JMHO)... so who knows where this will all lead ???


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## KennyO (Feb 5, 2003)

Hey Guys, they are all looking good. I'm about to enter the fray, and want to do a father/son build... One for me and one for my 8 year old son. He only draws 20" and about 15-20 pounds on his compound right now. So i need his to end up super light draw weight, any ideas on approximate dimensions for the kids bow.


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Kenny0, You might consider making yours out of Red Oak and your son's out of hickory.


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

It works! I have alot of finish work to do on it, but I couldn't resist shooting it today. It has some "zip" to it! I need lots of practise.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEaXfZQM2pQ


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## GPW (May 12, 2012)

Looks a little whip tillered to me , but that’s not necessarily bad , especially if it shoots good ... Good job Hawk !!!


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## takefive (Aug 19, 2012)

Looks like a nice shooter. Congrats! Nothing quite like the feeling of shooting the first arrow from a bow that you made yourself.


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## takefive (Aug 19, 2012)

Well, this is where I'm at on mine. This is my third board bow and tillering is still giving me fits. It is tillered so the bottom limb is a hair stronger than the top, but I think I thinned it more than I should have at the fades. Bright side is that I didn't wind up with much hand shock. Hoping to figure it out a little better on the next one. It came in 5 pounds under the 45 I was trying for, but I can live with that. It's 66" long. I came across a design for the offset handle that puts the string closer to centershot and am happy with the way it turned out. Not the fastest, but it shoots pretty nice. Might even be finished this weekend.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Nice one Takefive!

I haven't been in the shop to work on selfbows for a week now. My brother had springbreak (and truck work), my truck has been down and out, and I have to drive my uncle 3 hours evey day in someone else's car to help him clean out the houes he used to rent because he doesn't have a vehicle other than a motorcycle. Any time I've gotten in the shop has been on customer orders.

I'll try to at the very least get some pictures of where the bow is at now, not sure I'll get it strung though.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

These have been a while coming. I got the bow more or less tillered out. I tempered in too much reflex, then tried to temper it out. In any case, the bow is a good one- didn't give me any troubles about being a goof!

It's still holding reflex and I didn't check the weight yet but it's around 35-40# at 28" I think. A nice little bow. I'm toying with doing another one, only no massive reflex this time! Just straight tempering. It was a lot of fun, and I put a few short draw arrows through (around 26" draw) and man does it shoot for a cheap board and a couple hours work !

I'm going to leave it strung for a while to let it settle, keep an eye on the tiller and then sand it up. I'm just going to melt some parrafin wax into it for a finish and be done with it, keep it simple. I'm eager to see how it performs, this bow just seems fast, and that's coming from a guy who's obsessed with high performance composites:wink:

Definately toying with the idea of doing another... just because I want to!


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

Looks Good Takefive! Kegan, your pushing the limits of a board bow. You guys bows have thin limbs. You guys have built sports cars and my bow looks like a dump truck. LOL


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

It's not over the limits though, it's perfectly safe! I'm actually really comfortable with this thing: it's a hard, sturdy hunter! I'm thinking of looking for a little denser board for maybe 45-50# selfbow. Still have to think about something for arrows- don't have anything light enough for 'em. We'll see...

This is fun!


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## Highstrung1 (Oct 20, 2010)

how far down do you start your reflex?

Have you ever started a reflex from the fades?


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

This one is actually reflexed the entire bow, from the handle on out. For selfbows without deflex I like to get the reflex as even across the whole limb as I can, because I have trouble tillering out hinges that result from too much mid limb and in the tips. Normally the only time I do selective reflex is when I have the tips too thin and whippy, and I want to stiffen them up relative to the rest of the limb. Then I temper the whole belly, but only reflex the outer third.


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## drewsumrell (Dec 4, 2011)

Kegan, this may not be the proper platform, but I would really like to learn how, when and why you heat treat......reflex & deflex self bows. Could you share the details of how to do that? I would like to understand the process and give it a try. I like fast bows too


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

well i tried to flip the tips and on one limb it started to crack so i took weights off and worked in some epoxy and let it set, strung it up and it does come to full draw


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Drew, the best way to make a D/R selfbow is to glue the deflex into two billets, then reflex the limbs with heat. This produces the smoothest, fastest, longest lasting D/R selfbows when you're controlling all of the shaping. THe other option is to look for a deflexed stave. Normally, people hate these because they normally make slow bows, but if they have deflex in the center (almost like a kink) then they're perfect for them. 

I shape the bow, get it tillered to brace height, maybe a little further to make sure the limbs are balanced and even. Then I temper in enough reflex to give it around 2" final reflex. Some guys take it to like 6", but I am too impatient to work such a highly reflexed bow. Too finicky.


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## drewsumrell (Dec 4, 2011)

I read the section on your website about making selfbows again. You talked about heat treating the belly......until the belly wood is discolored.....nearly burnt I suppose. Then do you scrape this discolored layer off and continue tillering? Sounds like you get it hot enough that it's almost to the kindling point. Do you heat treat most all our eastern wood species? How much does it help the cast compared to no heat treating? By heat treating, are you making the belly wood harder and more resistant to crushing as the bow is drawn?

And to make sure I'm correct, deflexed limbs are curved toward the archer and reflexed in the limb curves away from the archer? I always get a little confused about this.

Thanks for your help and feedback. Very good and most interesting thread!




kegan said:


> Drew, the best way to make a D/R selfbow is to glue the deflex into two billets, then reflex the limbs with heat. This produces the smoothest, fastest, longest lasting D/R selfbows when you're controlling all of the shaping. THe other option is to look for a deflexed stave. Normally, people hate these because they normally make slow bows, but if they have deflex in the center (almost like a kink) then they're perfect for them.
> 
> I shape the bow, get it tillered to brace height, maybe a little further to make sure the limbs are balanced and even. Then I temper in enough reflex to give it around 2" final reflex. Some guys take it to like 6", but I am too impatient to work such a highly reflexed bow. Too finicky.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Deflex is toward you, and reflex is away.

Heat treating works best on any wood that is stronger in tension than compression (which is most woods). I go until it just starts to turn black, but is not burnt to where it is crusty and just "falls" off. It tempers the belly, driving out mositure and hardenning the cell walls, which increase compression strength.

My best luck with tempering has been like this:

Shape it into a straight flatbow with super skinny and stiff tips, and then tiller to brace height. Get it strung, and scale tiller to full draw. Big goal is to not get more than 1" set, even if the bow comes in under weight. Then I like to either temper it straight (if it's already at weight) for ease, or clamp it to a board and temper in 1" to 2" and if the draw weight is low I try to get a deeper temper. If the draw weight is about right, I'll just do enough to turn the belly dark brown and leave it at that. It helps fight set, to help keep the stored energy up. The limb design itself plays the biggest role in performance, but I think tempering helps keep the bow in its fresh and spunky state permanently, which often is more than enough performance for me. I tried the ultra reflex bows a few times but they took so much more work that I messed them up and never got the performance that is possible from them.


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## takefive (Aug 19, 2012)

I'm interested in the reflex/deflex process and how to add some speed to my next board bow, too. Thanks for the insight, Kegan. I finished my bow last night and it could have definitely benefited from some added zip. It's on the slow side with 1 3/4" string follow, but still a smooth and steady shooter. Really glad that I got into the challenge. This is my first oak bow and the third board bow I've made and it was a good learning experience. After the final sanding it came in at 38#. Looking forward to seeing what you other builders came up with!


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## GPW (May 12, 2012)

Kegan , you ever tried greasing the bow before you heat it ? Supposedly the grease acts much like it does with fried food , transferring the heat and preventing burning (up to a point) ... I tried crisco , and P-nut oil ... which take a higher heat ... seemed easier than steaming ... (where I always burn myself) Acetone or Vinegar removes the grease later for gluing or finishing .. 
Our best all wood RD bows were roughly floor tillered, heat bent, then pulled (strung) backwards into 2-3” of “Perry” reflex, and then a thin backing strip was glued on ... then final tillered ... after taking the initial set , they still had great cast , and looked Normal R/D unstrung ... Red oak would only need a very Thin backing strip as it seemed to fret easily, for me anyway... 

Ps. went through a pile of Red Oak boards at a local lumberyard ... Nothing ...grrrrr!!! Sometimes finding the right board is more difficult than making the bow !!! 
Living in a hardwood forrest , I’m tempted to just go hack down an oak on the property , Lots of Water Oak around ...that’s Red on the inside (heartwood) , make a board out of it , and then proceed from there... just to be “legal” ... I dunno’ ? ... :set1_thinking: Lots of Live Oak here too , but that’s all white on the inside ... Just trying to keep in the “spirit” of the build thing ...


In reality what I want to build is an asymmetrical deflex/reflex bow , just the opposite of the usual reflex deflex ... developed by the Hidatsa indians... the arrow pass/grip a hands width (4”) below bow center , the top limb longer and more deflexed than the bottom limb ... so I need a really good board for this “experiment” ... Figuring for Red Oak , to be entirely safe , at the cost of speed, 6’ would be a good length .. a Strange longbow ... -ish’


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

I've used grease to bend but never temper. I never got the desired effect that way, and the heat just drove the grease in. Made it very flexible, I would say it might have been easier to do recurves that way than with steam, but for tempering I just go plain ol' heat. I don't think anyone would hold it against you if you made your own board, sounds like as much of a challenge as making your own board bow!

Takefive, that's beautiful!!! I'm personally not sold on D/R selfbows unless the stave is already naturally deflexed and lends itself to the design naturally- or you're gluing together billets anyway. I built probably 25 D/R selfbows and out of them, probably half failed or didn't turn out right. Of those that survived, my only really good _one_ was from a slightly deflexed stave that I tempered in some reflex. It didn't even look like a D/R until you unstrung it and held it to your eye. I didn't skinny the tips up enough though, and it wasn't as fast as one of these skinny tip straight bows. I think for solid performance, these skinny tip flatbows with a little tempered reflex are tops. No stack, really smooth, very fast, and very easy to make. 

I'll be busy with orders today and tomorrow, but if I get a chance I'll make up a bow string and put some arrows through this thing and see how it chronos. Still looking for a good board to make another one already:wink:


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

Takefive, That looks great!

Kegan, How far into the riser/handle is it safe to cut an arrow rest? (buiding on a 1x2 oak board) If the handle is a second layer of the 1x2 board. Can you get to center shot without breaking the bow? 

I am also brain storming a shoot through riser/handle. I just built my first bow, so I am thinking outside the box because I don't know where the edges of the box are!


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## takefive (Aug 19, 2012)

Thanks for the encouraging words guys. I'm happy with the way it turned out all in all. Just have to force myself to go easier with the rasp and scraper on the next one  What has amazed me about self bows is how light and quiet they are. My factory recurve is a Martin Dreamcatcher and I think it's a fairly light bow but when I hold one of my board bows, they seem almost weightless in comparison. Hawk; this is the offset handle I copied. He cuts in a shelf and gets very close to center shot. It's from The Art of Making Selfbows by Stim Wilcox.


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## drewsumrell (Dec 4, 2011)

kegan said:


> I think for solid performance, these skinny tip flatbows with a little tempered reflex are tops. No stack, really smooth, very fast, and very easy to make.


Kegan, is a "tempered reflex" where you heat the limb and bent it over a form or are you doing something else to it to temper the wood as well? I'm not clear about what you're doing. Thanks!


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

I start with the bow bent over a caul and then suspend the bow over a hot plate, slowly moving it along until the entire belly is darkened brown. I let it sit on the form clamped up until its compeltely cooled, then give it a day or two to hydrate. It really boosts selfbow performance!


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## takefive (Aug 19, 2012)

I'm going to try heat tempering sometime, tho I think my next one is going to be bamboo backed and glue in the R/D as soon as I can afford 15 more clamps. Kegan; have you ever used walnut for limbs? I've heard that it can be a good bow wood, but also that the belly can fret. It sure would make for a pretty bow.
Shot my bow last night and it is a sweet shooter, even if it's only at 10 yards in my basement. Draws and releases so smooth and with no string slap. I love being able to sight down the string with the offset handle and put the arrow where I'm looking or at least as close as my form allows


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

I've only made one bow from walnut, and it was mostly sapwood. The sapwood can be treated just like red oak or a very light maple. It's extremely flexible and resilient. Best of luck on your glue up!

I'm going to try and get in a little sanding today, possibly even get paraffin on the bow tomorrow. Tomorrow I'm making a bunch of strings for customer's bows, so I'll make one up for this thing. Pics to follow!


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

Takefive, I am going to go that route on the next one I build. My shelf is only 1/4 inch into the riser so my arrow looks like a snake making its way to the target.


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## guyver (Jan 3, 2012)

Done. See mine here


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

Here is mine! In a truley ******* moment of enlitenment, I used a pizza box lid to draw the stenciles on and then cut them out and spray painted the deer tracks and antlers. I will post a video some time tommrow.

This is my first bow build and learned SO much that I will use on the next bow.


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Seeing a lot of very nice bows.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

You guys are making me hesitant to post pictures of mine, it doesn't look that great- even sanded!


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## takefive (Aug 19, 2012)

Very cool looking bows. Anyone else itching to start the next one?


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

takefive said:


> Very cool looking bows. Anyone else itching to start the next one?


Yes! I have plans in my head for making one for my wife and son. On another note, after realizing that my shelf was too narrow I cut the shelf another 1/4 into the handle. Now the arrow is almost lined up with the string. I shot it this afternoon and it was nice not to see the arrow flying back and forth like a snake on its way to the target. Thank you guys for sharing your ideas and pictures of your bows. It has helped a newbie like me out alot!


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## Highstrung1 (Oct 20, 2010)

Nice. I love the camo. (You might make some $$ with that pattern.)

How much string follow did you wind up with.


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

Highstrung1 said:


> Nice. I love the camo. (You might make some $$ with that pattern.)
> 
> How much string follow did you wind up with.


When its laying on the floor the tips come up about 1 and 3/4 of an inch.


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## chris peroni (Apr 9, 2012)

What a fantastic thread! I am very impressed with everyone and their effort. I just finished making my first red oak board bow and I know I'll be making more. I followed the tutorial by Sam Harper at his Poor Folk Bows site. I would have fit into this contest well as I started early March and finished on March 16th. If I did the backing with drywall tape and glue does that exclude me from the rules? I'd love to post pics or even a link to another forum with a follow along.

Well done all!



kegan said:


> Guys, this is all about fun. THere are no real dead lines, no real contest. I was planning on gathering a gallery of pictures for next month but I've already gotten three "extension" requests so hey- let's just keep going as long as we can!
> 
> The "challenge" remains the same: what's the coolest bow you can make from a red oak board? Post what you have, old, new, what ever you want!
> 
> Let's have fun!


edit/add- well, based on this  friendly comment I bet you guys wouldn't mind a few more self bow pics, right? I also see hawkdriver (a.k.a. Ken) did the same kind of backing. I really like the camo paint- I was thinking of doing something similar but chickened out from trying a stencil and just went with dark green dye.

I'll dig up those pics if that's cool.


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## takefive (Aug 19, 2012)

By all means post some pictures of your bow Chris. I love to see what other bowyers build.


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## fisher2 (Oct 29, 2012)

im already starting my next one! gonna do a deeper grip like a recurve on this one and some heat bending


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## chris peroni (Apr 9, 2012)

Just figured on how to get pics up- file size was way too big at first.

Here's a link to a sort of build along: http://forum.sword-buyers-guide.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=15819 

Some pics if ya don't want to see them all in the link:

middle of my first day tillering









trying out full draw for the first time. Never did get the set totally out of one of the limbs. Probably could also have done a better job at a smooth curve in the limbs. Not bad for my first go though all considered.









riser with a bit of shape drawing on it. I used a strip of oak I cut from the profile on top of poplar- no real reason for the strip except it was right there when I was doing the glue up.









used buffalo horn for the tips. Next time I'll make them smaller









don't have many full shots of the back. It's 3 layers of drywall tape and glue, then coloured with leather dye and spray lacquered.









...tbc


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## chris peroni (Apr 9, 2012)

...
Riser shaped and the bow ready to be oiled. I've continued to finish the wood with mineral oil, antique oil and beeswax. I was too timid to shape the riser further or cut the shelf deeper. It is comfortable in hand and shoots well with no wild paradox to worry about, so I figure good enough for this effort.









just before trying out some shooting- couple of coats of oil so far. I'm doing the classic oiling routine of once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year.
















a youtube video of some fun






Man I love this! I've since taken it out to the local sportsman club and put about 100 arrows through it, and about another 100 in my basement when I get that itch 

I also made a flemish jig and my own server- long live diy 

More to come I'm sure; next up will be a slightly shorter one for my wife.

almost forgot stats:
70"
30# @ 28"


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

Chris,

Riser/Handle looks GREAT. I used Sam's website as well. It spoon fed me everything I needed to get started. I knew zero going into this.

Did you glue those tips on over the backing? or Sand/cut the backing down to the wood? I was thinking of doing that with antler but didn't know how well it would work if I glued it over the backing.


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## chris peroni (Apr 9, 2012)

Ken,

That's a funny question because the *first* time I glued them on it was over the backing.... and it did not last. I muddle around with woodworking and leather crafting so I should have known better, but it was late at night and I made some sloppy mistakes. The first time I tried to epoxy the horn on I did it in my garage, the temp went down below freezing so the epoxy did not cure right, I did a poor job of blending the resin and hardener, I forgot to sand off the fiberglass tape/glue backing, and all this resulted in a very weak bond which broke as I was shaping the tips. The lesson is - don't be a slacker. 

2nd time around I did everything at room temp, mixed the resin and hardner well, and glued horn to bare wood. Now she's tight as a drum and I know the wood would fail before the bond as I also glued up a test piece and stressed it to failure.


Sam's site really is a foolproof guide for a first time bowyer. I also used Kegan's site- had no idea I'd find him here in this thread he started mind you - but google does a good job of bringing the good bow making sites to the top of the list. I have a good amount of tools at hand which helped me, but tillering is a tricky thing indeed and I tried to take my time and move slowly with bending. Still couldn't get everything quite right, but I'm very satisfied with the results overall.


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## takefive (Aug 19, 2012)

Great looking bow, Chris. It's an amazing feeling shooting arrows out of a bow that you made yourself.


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## chris peroni (Apr 9, 2012)

sure is! I have the itch to make some arrows now too. If figure that's got to feel pretty great too; shooting arrows you made on a bow you made. I'm thinking of trying poplar and making my own dowel cutter-- we'll see how long it takes me to get around to it


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ok here is a video of the bow with everything finished on it and a series of photos showing the steps from a board to a bow. I think Iam going to do the antler thing for the tips on the next bow. Thanks for the heads up on the backing and the epoxy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spNxAPrn6HM&feature=youtu.be


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## takefive (Aug 19, 2012)

You made a good looking, sweet shooting bow Hawk. Great job on the video, too. Plus a Marshall Tucker Band classic. Nice!


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Got the paraffin on the bow, just letting it break in a couple days for good measure. Pictuers soon!


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

takefive said:


> You made a good looking, sweet shooting bow Hawk. Great job on the video, too. Plus a Marshall Tucker Band classic. Nice!


Thanks Takefive, Can't help it about the music. (Cut me and I bleed southern *******)

Now the real challenge is learning how to shoot this thing. I don't know anything about traditional archery. I am slinging arrows all over the place. Back to step 1 all over.


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## takefive (Aug 19, 2012)

I've only been shooting barebow with my recurves and long bows for a few months now. Before that I always used some type of pin sight, even if it was just a bobby pin taped to the riser. What has helped me is the usual nasty Wisconsin winter that forced me to shoot at 10 yards in my basement. I think that shooting at a shorter range helps build confidence quicker. 
I know I'm showing my age, but I saw Lynyrd Skynyrd in Milwaukee on their first tour. I was always more a Stones, Who, Led Zeppelin guy, but starting with the Allman Brothers there were so many great bands that came from the South. IMHO there will never be another slide guitar player quite like Duane Allman. Well, back on topic, I found a really nice walnut board yesterday, so now I have to go make another bow


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

I think I am going to try and get my hands on a piece of hickory and see if I can make a nice short bow for my wife. She only has a 22 inch draw so I might be able to cut the bow really short. (maybe 54") Now the challenge is going to be to find a nice piece of hickory.


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## GPW (May 12, 2012)

Hawk , we found Hickory growing all over the South ... If you can’t find that , Pecan makes a good second choice... :thumbs_up


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## unkieford (Jun 7, 2010)

The tips came out kind of nice, beginner's luck.. Next one will be better. Dog is a bonus pic!

---Ford---


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## unkieford (Jun 7, 2010)

I finished this in the time alloted, just ran out of daylight to take pictures. You can see the obvious tillering mistakes, that ended up with a whip-ended lower limb. I should have listened to my wife when she said "Leave it alone!"
I may wind up piking the ends to try to fix it. It came out to 68" ntn, and about 34 lbs @28". Red oak and poplar. The only power tool used was a palm-sander.

---Ford---


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## takefive (Aug 19, 2012)

Nice work on the handle/riser and on the tips. Looks good!


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## chris peroni (Apr 9, 2012)

obviously I like it! reminds of my one


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## unkieford (Jun 7, 2010)

Thanks for the compliments. Backing is linen, probably the most expensive part of the whole bow. String is flemish twist dacron with a timber hitch on the bottom, 'cuz we're going for simple and classic here. Dog is a chessie, and she loves retrieving her blunt arrow. 

Bad news is, since my first attempt is a success, i'm kinda getting the itch to make a better one now. As i understand it, that's how addiction begins.....:shade:

Kegan, How short do you think I can trim these limbs? I am aiming for #40-#45 lbs @28"

---Ford---


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## chris peroni (Apr 9, 2012)

I know the feeling- been to the hardware store 2x last week looking for a suitable board. 

I made a long string for tillering and used a timber hitch on one end but had a tough time keeping that knot from slipping. Anyone else have this problem? On the string for my bow I went with two flemish loops and I like this a lot more than a timber on one end. Wasn't as hard to get the strings even as I thought it would be, but I did have the overall length end up so I have very few twists in the string.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Unkieford, I'd say you could probably take 2" from each end- especially if you move the nock closer to the tip (mine are 1/2" or so away rther than the 1" that's so commmon- saves on mass too!)

Sorry about the picture delay folks. I haven't even gotten to shoot or even get a final draw weight on this thing. Just got a new-old truck (old truck, new to me), so I've been rebuilding it to get it through inspection here. I haven't had a reliable vehicle for almost a year now, so I finally broke down and got one. Anyway, busy with customerss' bows and the truck and getting things arranged for moving in to a new place- oh and our internext is having issues. I'm having trouble finding a moment:lol:


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## unkieford (Jun 7, 2010)

My string was just long enough to work. I tied an overhand knot in the end before looping the timber hitch, and that extra knot is probably what kept it from pulling through. From what I've been reading, natural fiber cord needs at least 3 wraps to hold, but modern fibers usually need more like 5 wraps to keep from slipping. just pulled it snug, and added twists from the top end to adjust brace height. Kinda backwards, but it works. 
If I get some free-time, I'll tell you how my weird adaptation of a tillering stick works....


---Ford---


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

bump


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## hawkdriver55 (Sep 6, 2010)

Update......My red oak bow has gone south! The bottom limb has weakened way more than the top limb. It has been retired to ornimant status in the "man cave". It was fun building it though. Just wondering how everyone else's red oak bows are doing????


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## guyver (Jan 3, 2012)

Made another red oak bow. Paddle bow with highly crowned back


















Who won the last one? lol


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## MGF (Oct 27, 2012)

guyver said:


> Made another red oak bow. Paddle bow with highly crowned back
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Did you back it?


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## guyver (Jan 3, 2012)

Nope no back. Not technically a self bow (laminated handle) but the working parts are a single piece of red oak


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

guyver: VERY nice bow!! I like the thin (static?) tips.


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## guyver (Jan 3, 2012)

Thanks wseward. Tips don't move. Heat bent the last third of the limbs and also the tips, has a nice, subtle reflex/deflex profile


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

RD long bow in Red Oak with NARROW static tips! Very cool.


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

Neat looking bow and color, guy. Is that the color on your other red oak?


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## guyver (Jan 3, 2012)

No this one is dyed with transfast powder dyes. Dark fade on back, light on belly


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## SonnyJ (Sep 2, 2012)

I expect mine to be done sometime in August. First bow I've ever made. How long can one expect these board bows to last? 
Also, what are you guys using for strings? Are you using B50, or something else?


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Probably best to stay with B50 for a Red Oak Board bow. You could always epoxy on some harder material for nocks. Black Walnut, Birch and Red Oak bows I have made have B50 strings on them. Just made a D-75 string for a Hickory 30-32# that has oversize nocks.

I have not had any of my bows long enough, nor have I heard from others, to comment on how long they last.

Good Luck.


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## unkieford (Jun 7, 2010)

Bow #4, the other 3 are still in use. One in slightly altered shape but in use nonetheless.  

This is maple with a strip of red oak on the riser and tips, that still counts right? 70" ntn, 50# @ my stubby 26.5 draw length. The arrows well, they just looked good and they have red oak reinforced self nocks.


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## wseward (Mar 7, 2013)

Nice Maple bow! Nice arrows also.

I purchased a Maple Board at the same time the Red Oak Board was purchased. After inspecting the Maple board I decided it was better to use for lams for some limbs some time in the future. Looking forward to 
getting another Maple Board for a self bow. And another board of Black Walnut. AND another board of Hickory!


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

Great looking bow there!!!


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