# Another paper tuning problem.......high tear.....



## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

I have read all of the threads concerning a high paper tear, and moved my nocking point, as well as my rest, up and down. I still can't get rid of about a 1" high tear through my Apex8. Timing was checked a few days ago, and is very close....if not spot-on.

I am shooting a .350 spined Full Bore arrow, so I don't think "underspined" would apply to me (shooting 65-66#'s). At one point I had the arrow setting nock low on the bow, and still had the high tear.....


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## Chop1 (Apr 30, 2007)

Got to be fletching contact, have you checked? Also if you are using a blade rest, if it is too stiff you can get the high tear as well.


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

Chop1 said:


> Got to be fletching contact, have you checked? Also if you are using a blade rest, if it is too stiff you can get the high tear as well.


Oh yeah....I was shooting with an un-fletched arrow, AND I have played with the tension of my Spot Hogg infinity rest!

It may actually be the spine. I shot one of my X-Cutters (.250 spine) through the paper, and got a little bit of a low tear....which makes since because the rest isn't set up for them (being smaller diameter). I might just go back to them...whatya think? lol


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## Longbow42 (Oct 31, 2008)

Paper tuning with a fletched shaft really does not tell you much unless your bow is really out of tune. Bare shaft tuning is the way to go. You should be able to get a bullet hole at point blank with a bare shaft. Adjust the rest up, down or right, left to achieve this and get your center shot set. Then move back to about 5 yds and then 10 yds. That will tell you if your spine is right. You can adjust that by either adjusting point weight or cutting your shaft. You can tell if spine is too stiff or weak by increasing your weight or decreasing and seeing if the tear gets worse. There is a great right up on here on how to do it. It is not that hard and will produce great results if you follow it. I can now shoot a bare shaft from 17 yds in my basement and get a bullet hole. Adding vanes will make it that much better, unless you have vane contact. After that, you can go outside and shoot a few shots up close and then at 50-60 yds to fine tune CS if needed.


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## Chop1 (Apr 30, 2007)

dw'struth said:


> Oh yeah....I was shooting with an un-fletched arrow, AND I have played with the tension of my Spot Hogg infinity rest!
> 
> It may actually be the spine. I shot one of my X-Cutters (.250 spine) through the paper, and got a little bit of a low tear....which makes since because the rest isn't set up for them (being smaller diameter). I might just go back to them...whatya think? lol


That would make sense, unless your tiller was waaaay off, there isn't much more it could be. Sounds like you have it narrowed down.


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

Longbow42 said:


> Paper tuning with a fletched shaft really does not tell you much unless your bow is really out of tune. Bare shaft tuning is the way to go. You should be able to get a bullet hole at point blank with a bare shaft. Adjust the rest up, down or right, left to achieve this and get your center shot set. Then move back to about 5 yds and then 10 yds. That will tell you if your spine is right. You can adjust that by either adjusting point weight or cutting your shaft. You can tell if spine is too stiff or weak by increasing your weight or decreasing and seeing if the tear gets worse. There is a great right up on here on how to do it. It is not that hard and will produce great results if you follow it. I can now shoot a bare shaft from 17 yds in my basement and get a bullet hole. Adding vanes will make it that much better, unless you have vane contact. After that, you can go outside and shoot a few shots up close and then at 50-60 yds to fine tune CS if needed.


Thanks to you and Chop1. 

That's the thing.....I am shooting bare shafts, and can't get it out moving the nocking point and/or the rest. Mathew's forum said, when this is the case, arrow spine is too weak. I figured that .350 would be plenty stiff for an Apex at 65#'s, and a 30.5" draw. I even tried tightening the bottom limb bolt a little, however I know that all of my specs and timing are very close....if not just right, so I didn't fool with it much.

The X-Cutter produced a much better tear (which I knew that it would as I shot them last year), so I may just go back to them and save some aggrivation. Do you guys think that .350 would be "weak" in my set up? ....I didn't.


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## Longbow42 (Oct 31, 2008)

I think that you need a 300 spine. My setup is 66#, but with a 32.5" DL and 300's would not bare shaft tune well past 10 feet. I could get bullets up close, but not from back to 10 yds, which indicates a weak spine. I switched to 200 spine Kinetics and that was the trick. Now I get bullets holes from up close and 16 yds. This is all with a bare shaft.


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