# Complete tune



## Mack11 (Jan 6, 2019)

Anyone have a good link to anything about a full complete tune start to finish. I am having trouble getting mine tuned.


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Mack11 said:


> Anyone have a good link to anything about a full complete tune start to finish. I am having trouble getting mine tuned.


Helps to know what bow?


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Mack11 said:


> Anyone have a good link to anything about a full complete tune start to finish. I am having trouble getting mine tuned.


1) mount your arrow rest to the bow. Set draw weight to something you can handle. Set draw length to a dl module size that "fits" you. We will confirm during a shooting test, confirm draw length. "Being measured" is only the start. Must confirm.
2) mount your sight to the bow.
3) install a peep sight.
4) adjust arrow rest vertical height. Good starting point is center of arrow matching center of the arrow rest mounting holes. This is just a STARTING point.
5) adjust arrow rest horizontal position (centershot). Good idea is to clamp/rubber band a 2nd arrow to the riser wall. This is your dead straight ahead reference. Nock arrow onto string, and move arrow rest until both arrows parallel.





How do I know that the two arrows are parallel? Fold a slip of paper that just barely fits between the two arrow tubes, near the nock. Check the fit near the point of the two arrows.



If the slip of paper barely fits between the two arrows, at the point end and at the nock end, the arrows are parallel and the arrow rest centershot is at an EXCELLENT starting position, before you fire the first arrow.


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

6) set nock height, height of the d-loop. Two options. Riser is vertical and the arrow is dead level. Option two, is riser is vertical and the arrow nock is a tiny tiny bit above horizontal.





Cheap $2 string level resting on top of the arrow tube. This is an EXCELLENT starting point for the height of the d-loop. Yeah, you have the option to move the d-loop during tuning.


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

7) Now, we press the bow, relax the string, and you can install the peep sight. To confirm that the peep is at the correct height, you first must know what and how to find anchor.





Two examples for anchor. Then, you have to stand up straight, do NOT tilt head backwards, do NOT tilt head downwards. Need a LEVEL chin, vertical neck, no leaning backwards, and a level bow arm, level shoulders.



This is standing up straight (see, no diagonal creases in the t-shirt). So, with your release hand at anchor, and while standing up straight, with a level arrow...THEN, open your eyes and can you see through the peep sight?
If you cannot see through the peep sight, go back to the bow press, and move the peep, and try again.


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

8) TIE in the peep sight. This means to use serving thread and make use of the groove, the crevasse around the edge of the peep. TIE in the peep sight, means to connect the peep to the bowstring, using serving thread.



Make a "x" with your serving thread. That means wrap around the peep twice.



Make some space between the "x" and the body of the peep and run the end of the thread under the "x". This is a constrictor knot.


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

9) Now, we mess with the bow press and tweak the cables to get the arrow flying dead level, when you start with a dead level arrow at full draw. This means, you shoot an arrow at a target, where the bullseye is at YOUR shoulder height. Nope, target on the ground, on the grass will not work. Find a way to get your target off the floor, so that the bullseye is at YOUR shoulder height. This way, you will be at full draw, with a dead level arrow. So, how do we do a shooting test to confirm that the arrow is flying dead level? Simple. Fire a fletched arrow and a bareshaft at a level strip of masking tape...20 yards away. NO tape on the back end of the bareshaft, cuz the tape kills the purpose of a bareshaft, meaning clean airflow. NO tape. We want a BAREshaft...no vanes, no base of the vane at the back end.

So, maybe you get THIS result.



One arrow hit higher. Other arrow hit lower. Well, this means you have to tweak ONE cable (add or remove a half twist). How do I know which cable? Don't matter. Pick one cable, and make all of your adjustments to that ONE cable. ONE cable is out of whack, either too long by half a twist, or too short by half a twist. BUT, how do I know if I should add half a twist. What if I mess up, and what is I go the wrong direction, and remove a half twist. Will my bow break? NO, your bow will not break. What if I have short term memory loss, and cannot remember what I did 30 seconds ago? What if, what if? Use a piece of paper and write down what you did. If you removed a half twist, then, write down "i removed a half twist". What if I cannot remember which cable I twisted? Put a strip of masking tape on the cable you adjusted. If the test results get worst, you can refer to your notes and go the other direction. At 20yards, just a half twist or a full twist makes a very noticeable difference. How do I know when I had adjusted the twists enough? Test results will look like this.



What if I add 1/2 twist and it don't get better? What if I add 1 twist and it don't get better? What if I add 1.5 twists and it don't get better? What if I add 2 twists and it still don't get better? Then, you have form issues, and you should stop and get some help with form and shooting technique.


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

What comes after Step 9? You do step 10. Do steps 1 through 9 and get back to us with photos of your test results after you complete Steps 1-9.


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

What comes after Step 9? You do step 10. Do steps 1 through 9 and get back to us with photos of your test results after you complete Steps 1-9.
What about cam shimming? That comes later.
What about yoke tuning? That also comes later.
What about stabilizer tuning? That also comes later.
What about nock tuning? Comes later.
What about paper tuning? You can, at multiple distances.
What about group tuning? Comes later.
What about tiller tuning? Comes later.
What about floating arrows? Don't bother.
What about French Tuning? Comes later.
What about modified french tuning? It's an option.
What about shimming a limb pocket? Usually not necessary.
What about a laser? Not needed, cuz you are going to test the tune of your bow by shooting arrows, and adjust as needed.
What about balancing the entire bow on a two way gimbal system? Really not needed, cuz you are going to test the tune of the bow and adjust stabilizer balance anyways, based on shooting results.


----------



## bdeemo (Feb 3, 2013)

Good info on here


----------



## Mack11 (Jan 6, 2019)

My bad thought I posted it in there. 2019 hoyt helix


----------



## Lucky1 (Mar 21, 2004)

Alan, why not adjust/micro adjust rest at this point instead of twisting cables? thx


----------



## Lucky1 (Mar 21, 2004)

Lucky1 said:


> Alan, why not adjust/micro adjust rest at this point instead of twisting cables? thx


To elaborate a little more on my question. I have tuned my setup and believe I am left only with 'micro adjustments"... I have bare shaft tuned but cannot seem to be able to get a perfectly straight bare shaft. I have tried to adjust it out with micro adjustments to the rest and made improvements, but not to the point of having a perfectly straight bare shaft at 20 yards. I have a high right tear by about 1". My form is certainly not perfect, and can see the variation due to form, but I'd like to get the bow/arrows matched as close as possible....

I'm traveling this week, but when I get home, I will definatley try this... SOunds like this may be the tickt vs rest adjustments...


----------



## rslscobra (Jan 23, 2006)

Tagged


----------



## Lucky1 (Mar 21, 2004)

Lucky1 said:


> To elaborate a little more on my question. I have tuned my setup and believe I am left only with 'micro adjustments"... I have bare shaft tuned but cannot seem to be able to get a perfectly straight bare shaft. I have tried to adjust it out with micro adjustments to the rest and made improvements, but not to the point of having a perfectly straight bare shaft at 20 yards. I have a high right tear by about 1". My form is certainly not perfect, and can see the variation due to form, but I'd like to get the bow/arrows matched as close as possible....
> 
> I'm traveling this week, but when I get home, I will definatley try this... SOunds like this may be the tickt vs rest adjustments...


For what it's worth, I was able to experiment with this on my TRX-38, twisting cables(1/2 twist at a time) and adding weight to the tip yielded perfect results. Arrows at the same height, and entering the target at the same angle/plane now.... The difference between synchronized cams and timed cams, now finally make perfect sense... Did a quick French tune, and now shooting with better results already. I'm not going to tell you how long it took me, but I feel like I finally got the tune I have been looking for. Also did this with my Nocam HTR and I cannot get perfect horizontal alignment, but a half twist either way moves the bare arrow either further above, or below the fletched arrow. Perhaps I can tune this out with the rest... Thank you!


----------



## Cuahitl (Jan 22, 2020)

Good info here.


----------



## nachunter (Jul 25, 2017)

Tagged


----------



## DQuint (Mar 25, 2020)

Thanks for putting this list together. Saving for later.:cheers:


----------



## Travis78 (Mar 30, 2020)

You said it before I could post it


----------



## SRPIdaho (Mar 24, 2020)

Saving this. Thanks for helping with the learning process.


----------



## Relaxer12 (Mar 28, 2020)

Thanks to all that posted.. helps alot!


----------



## 17hidalgo (Oct 22, 2015)

Great topic


----------



## Fast1elk (Mar 22, 2018)

Awesome info. Looking forward to warm weather to put it to use thanks.


----------



## Mike Neeley (Jan 25, 2003)

Great info. Thanks


----------



## myles046 (Jan 25, 2020)

Thanks!


----------



## Swampfox92 (Dec 14, 2019)

Great thread


----------



## ahlgringo (Feb 1, 2017)

Tag


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ROSCO 1 (Feb 4, 2009)

great info


----------



## jjentringer (Jul 29, 2020)

Thanks for taking the time to post. Excellent information


----------



## jdweinberger (Dec 10, 2010)

This thread is very helpful


----------



## [email protected] (Aug 13, 2020)

following


----------

