# Help! Broad Heads Shoot Right Of Field Tips



## Kent

I am going to Texas turkey hunting next week and went to the range to shoot my broad heads (fixed blade) and they were consistently 1 1/2 inches right of my field tips at 20 yards. I used the same arrows, tip weights ect. I shot a 3d round of 500. 25 targets with 2 arrows at each target scored 10, 8, 5 and shot a 488 so I know the field tips are right on. Any suggestions?


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## hutchies

Do a search for "rest tuning". What is happening is that your broadheads are plaining and you have to find the sweet spot for both your FP's and BH's. What you will have to do is take 2 arrows. 1 with FP, 1 with BH. Shoot them at the target at different spots. If the Broadheads are shooting right like you indicated slightly move the rest a little to the left til you both arrow shoot the same spot. That doesn't mean center of target. That means if the FP is an inch left the BH is a inch left. You might have to move your sight after adjusting.


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## Nick1959

Sometimes adjusting the 'broadhead to fletching' a little differently than they are now will do the trick. When I used to shoot Thunder heads I had to have my fletchings lined up with the blades of my broad heads. I now shoot mechanicals.:wink: 

Good Luck,
NIck


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## DougB

*boadhead's*

Move rest slightly to the right @ 20yds. Read pblawler's reply to Drop Zone tuning. Hope it helps.


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## Roland

another vote for moving the rest slightly to right. I'd also check at multiple yardages. Spine issues can also raise there ugly head when broadheads are used. Easton has a tuning guide and it is a worthwhile read.


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## EXTREME 1

Some times your BH's will just do that and there is only one way to fix it is to do a little moving of rest or of the sights. Shoot it threw paper once and see what your arrow/Bh is doing coming out of the bow. If it is a perfect tear then you need to move your sight pin but if there is a side tear then make the rest adjustment. Also check to make sure the Bh is the same weight as your field tips, to light or to heavy can give you the same results.


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## pblawler

Unless the broadhead is missaligned I'll bet you could put a field point on the BH arrow and it will tear left through paper at 6 and 12 feet. Here is a link to my tune procedure, at the bottom it covers broadhead tuning, hope it helps. One more thing I always suggest it due to vane and spine variance it is always a good idea to shoot each arrow through paper before spinning on your broadheads, you'll be supprised at what you'll find.


http://www.lawleroutdoors.com/Artic... Tuning&Call=Hunting/Hunting.asp?Game=Archery


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## Kent

Between this site and Mathewsinc. about half say move the rest left and half say move it right. Both arrows are the same and the weight is the same. My bow is lazer tuned. So, which do I do. Move the rest right or left.


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## JAVI

It's called Dynamic Spine.... the broadhead being longer weakens the spine when shot... For the present... just resight the bow for the broadheads..... then if you want to use the same arrows for 3-D and hunting.... you'll need a bit more spine....


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## pblawler

Kent said:


> Between this site and Mathewsinc. about half say move the rest left and half say move it right. Both arrows are the same and the weight is the same. My bow is lazer tuned. So, which do I do. Move the rest right or left.



That is because the Easton Manual does not specify whether it is for fingers or a release on the BH tuning section, it is for finger shooters, refer back to the paper tuning section and notice the horizontal rest adjustment is opposite for finger shooters and release shooters and so is BH tuning, with a release follow the broadheads with the rest, with fingers follow the field points. As a test with your arrow tearing left or right in paper go shoot a broadhead and I'll bout guarranty it will impact opposite of the tear (i.e. left tear = right hitting broadhead, so with a release you move the rest to the right to correct both).


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## BlackKnight81

Just move your sight. Dont mess with your tune. Moving the sight will be much easieer in the long run. sight in you BH's and then when you are done turkey hunting(hpefuly the first day) sight in you field tips again. no matter which way you look at it, it will be easier to just sight in that try to tune your rest to the BH's.


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## ButchrCrekHuntr

Kent--It is NOT rocket science! If you are confused about which way to move your rest because of contradictory information, move it one direction or the other 1/32 inch at a time; and if that doesn't make your broadheads and field points impact the same, then move the rest the opposite direction. It has been my experience from doing it hundreds of times with release shooters that when your broadheads impact to the right of field points, you move the arrow rest to the left. Moving it to the right only compounds the problem. 

It is ridiculous to make the adjustment by changing the sight for each one when it is so easy to get them to both impact in the same place by adjusting your arrow rest in one direction or the other.


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## Roland

ButchrCrekHuntr said:


> Kent--It is NOT rocket science! If you are confused about which way to move your rest because of contradictory information, move it one direction or the other 1/32 inch at a time; and if that doesn't make your broadheads and field points impact the same, then move the rest the opposite direction. It has been my experience from doing it hundreds of times with release shooters that when your broadheads impact to the right of field points, you move the arrow rest to the left. Moving it to the right only compounds the problem.
> 
> It is ridiculous to make the adjustment by changing the sight for each one when it is so easy to get them to both impact in the same place by adjusting your arrow rest in one direction or the other.


But as Javi said it can be spine related and then it doesn't matter how you move the rest. Been there and done that more times than I can count.


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## BlackKnight81

ButchrCrekHuntr said:


> It is ridiculous to make the adjustment by changing the sight for each one when it is so easy to get them to both impact in the same place by adjusting your arrow rest in one direction or the other.



If you want to screw up your arrow flight then by all means move the rest. Just because they(field tips) it in the same spot as your BH's at 20yds dosen't maen they will at 30, or 40. I know some people believe that arrow flight is overrated but I would ask you this, if you have poor arrow flight will shoot tight groups? The answer is no. Don't screw up your arrow flight. If you do then you will get poor results, I can garuntee it!

I shoot the Easton Axis ST 340 @ 29.5" w/ 125 gr. GKF Hornet BH's, 4" lo-pro Duravanes. They weigh in at 452.4 gr. They shoot 3" high and 4" left of my filed tips, but they fly great and group beautifuly! (Yes I did lose some vanes and grouping them did cost me 3 arrows, but I had to see how they would hit. It was the first time I had used them ever) I simply move my sight. All my pins stay the same, i just have to move my sight to the appropriate mark on my windage and vertical adjustment bars. It dosent get any simpler than that.


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## pblawler

pblawler said:


> That is because the Easton Manual does not specify whether it is for fingers or a release on the BH tuning section, it is for finger shooters, refer back to the paper tuning section and notice the horizontal rest adjustment is opposite for finger shooters and release shooters and so is BH tuning, with a release follow the broadheads with the rest, with fingers follow the field points. As a test with your arrow tearing left or right in paper go shoot a broadhead and I'll bout guarranty it will impact opposite of the tear (i.e. left tear = right hitting broadhead, so with a release you move the rest to the right to correct both).



I tune up many hunters and verify with broadheads at my shop every year, if you have good arrow flight (i.e. arrows leaving straight) then broadheads will group with field points, if the arrow leaves with a kick they will group opposite the kick. I have seen and corrected it thousands of times. I am in the process of documenting it via video which I will post for download to demonstrate.

A small group size does not say anything about how well the arrows are flying straight. As long as everything is tight they will porpose, fishtail, or kick the same everytime, but that does not mean broadheads will impact with field points either. Group size has more to do with consistency of equipment and form rather than the tune of the bow and arrow.


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## Kent

I moved my rest 1/32 to the left for a right hitting broadhead. The field points are hitting slightly left and the broadheads slightly right and high all at 20 yards. At 15 yards there is less difference and at 10 yards there isn't any noticeable difference. At 30 yards the field tips are a little further left and the broadheads are a little further right.


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## JAVI

Spine.....


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## Kent

Spine? I'm shooting GT 55/75 28inches and 59lbs with 100grain tips and 2 inch duravanes the arrows weight approx. 390 grains with everything on them. What are my issues with spine? Also, shooting SBXT with QAD Ultra Rest and Toxonics KDHD55 sight.


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## Roland

Kent said:


> Spine? I'm shooting GT 55/75 28inches and 59lbs with 100grain tips and 2 inch duravanes the arrows weight approx. 390 grains with everything on them. What are my issues with spine? Also, shooting SBXT with QAD Ultra Rest and Toxonics KDHD55 sight.


Kent, beside spine and it can be tricky from bow to bow. I don't think a 2" duravane is going to stabilize a broadhead very well. Blazers work because of there high profile and 2.25" quick spins work because they spin quicker. I'd try a 4" vane or blazers and see if that helps. FWIW the reason I bring ot up is your impact is spreading out as you move back and that is usually caused by lack of spin for stabilization.


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## Kent

I shot 4 inch vanes before and they weren't any better. They still hit right and they were a little high. I specifically went to blazers because they were stiffer and I was told and read that they would help stabilize my broadheads better. What are you thinking for spine? If I wanted to stay with GTs could I go to 75/95s or should i shorten my arrows? I have a 28 inch draw and 28 inch arrows.


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## JAVI

Just for grins.... turn your bow down to 50 lbs if you can.... then shoot it again... if the arrows move closer together it is spine....

Just my opinion... you need more vane for fixed broadheads...


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## pblawler

Kent said:


> I moved my rest 1/32 to the left for a right hitting broadhead. The field points are hitting slightly left and the broadheads slightly right and high all at 20 yards. At 15 yards there is less difference and at 10 yards there isn't any noticeable difference. At 30 yards the field tips are a little further left and the broadheads are a little further right.


I guess your shooting a release, if so you moved the rest the wrong way, as Javi is saying by decreasing poundage you are correcting for a weak spine condition that causes the arrow to kick left so anouther way to correct for a left kick which is what causes broadheads to plane right is to move the rest to the right. Give it a try and let us know what happens, bet you'll be happy with the results unless its fletching contact or form thats causeing the left kick, then rest position and poundage will not have an effect.


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## yelk hunter

I agree with Javi, to a point. I shoot "stiff" (about 65#, 125 gr tips, 28.5" arrow, 30"DL, using 75/95). I had the same problem as you and checked "spline" (do a search on here) with bearings to find the stiff side of the arrow. I then found that by putting the stiff side to the right (right handed shooter) that it made the "spine" stiffer in that direction.

With 4" vanes, and the stiff side right, I now hit the same spot with BH and FP.

Even GT web site says 'rotate noc 90 degrees' - and I think they are admitting a stiff side - you just have to guess to find it by rotating the noc.

Suggest you go back to 4" vanes to keep from compounding the problem.

I am not knocking blazers but I shot them with this set up, and only 4" (the 4" I tried were vane tec and flex fletch) vanes would group "best" with the BHs. Blazers work great with FP.


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## pblawler

yelk hunter said:


> I agree with Javi, to a point. I shoot "stiff" (about 65#, 125 gr tips, 28.5" arrow, 30"DL, using 75/95). I had the same problem as you and checked "spline" (do a search on here) with bearings to find the stiff side of the arrow. I then found that by putting the stiff side to the right (right handed shooter) that it made the "spine" stiffer in that direction.
> 
> With 4" vanes, and the stiff side right, I now hit the same spot with BH and FP.
> 
> Even GT web site says 'rotate noc 90 degrees' - and I think they are admitting a stiff side - you just have to guess to find it by rotating the noc.
> 
> Suggest you go back to 4" vanes to keep from compounding the problem.
> 
> I am not knocking blazers but I shot them with this set up, and only 4" (the 4" I tried were vane tec and flex fletch) vanes would group "best" with the BHs. Blazers work great with FP.


I have found Blazers to steer just as good as the 4" AAEs I use to shoot but fletching contact is much more critical and a problem due to the extra height and stiffness of the Blazers. Even slight contact that does not leave a mark will cause the arrow to kick, you can identify the contact by rotating the nock as you shoot through paper or shoot a bare shaft then a fletched one and note the differences.


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## ryersonhill

try going either up a spine or two or down a couple spine and if you don't want to deal with it go 4-fletch


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## McChesney

I just tried moving my rest either way, and two different arrows...the CE Max Hunter 350 and 250's, with a 100gr Innerloc, 100gr Thunderhead, and 85gr Thunderhead...all the broadhead arrows hit approximately 2" left, no matter what! I am about inclined to just sight in for them, or shoot my G5 T3's. I have a new 2011 Hoyt Carbon Matrix Plus, and they group super, but consistently left with any broadhead! Anyone have any ideas other than sighting in for the broadheads exclusively?


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## swat09

lip stick the arrow rest to see if you have contact could be a quick fix without buyin new arrows


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## McChesney

I will try the contact issue quick fix tomorrow....but if this isn't the problem, do you have any other ideas?


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## BadgerT

Kent said:


> Between this site and Mathewsinc. about half say move the rest left and half say move it right. Both arrows are the same and the weight is the same. My bow is lazer tuned. So, which do I do. Move the rest right or left.


Move the rest in the direction you want the BH to go. In very minimal increments.


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## McChesney

I have done that, and the difference between field points, and broadheads stays the same, only it moves over. I have tried different weight tips, different style heads, and different spined arrows. Nothing seems to make a difference. Ordinarily, I agree, that you move the rest to the direction you want the broadheads to impact, to get them to match with field points. This situation, when it seems nothing that I do, has me stumped!


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## autoguns

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=539460

Hope this helps


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## BadgerT

I apologize if it has already been mentioned, I'm tired from planting my food plots so I have not read the more recent posts. If your arrows are not coming together beyond a certain point and you are certain you are spined correctly, a couple twists in your left yoke should show some improvement and you can go more or less from what that shows.


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## gabuckslammer

BadgerT said:


> I apologize if it has already been mentioned, I'm tired from planting my food plots so I have not read the more recent posts. If your arrows are not coming together beyond a certain point and you are certain you are spined correctly, a couple twists in your left yoke should show some improvement and you can go more or less from what that shows.


When you say left yoke are you facing the front of the bow or looking from the rear?

Im experiencing the same thing, with a Carbon Express Blue Streak 350 cut to 26.25 inches, wrapped with 4" Bohning Blazer wrap and fletched with Blazers, and tipped with a 100 grain Muzzy MX-3 broadhead. at 25 yards, my field tip is in the dot, and my broadhead is 1" right. at 35 yards, my field point is in the dot, and my broadhead is 1 1/2" to the right. at 45 yards, the field point is in the dot, and the broadhead is about 1 3/4"-2" to the right. I've paper tuned the bow and find it to be shooting a perfect bullet hole with field points. Ive checked my Idler wheel lean with an arrow shaft, and find the shaft to lay straight beside the string at full draw.

Last year I shot a different arrow, Victory VForce V3 350's, tipped with the exact same broadheads and field points and had no problems with differences. the only thing I've done differently is changed my string and cable. I was thinking perhaps I didnt get my yoke twists back exactly. But when I check my IW lean, it appears pretty correct.

I was wondering if I should try rotating my nocks, moving my rest 1/32" to the right, or adding a twist to the right cable yoke (if looking from rear)

Thanks for any help or suggestions.


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