# Idler wheel lean on DXT



## kauaidundee (Apr 21, 2006)

I've heard that besides checking for proper cam timing, A2A, and brace height on a DXT, there also is the possibility of idler wheel lean. It was said that if your field tips aren't hitting in the same spot as your broadheads that the idler wheel could need some attention. Is this true? How do you check for lean? How do you fix? Thanks for any qualified opinions.


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## Tater1985 (Apr 28, 2008)

I would say you could lay an arrow on the side of the idler wheel and it should be perfectly parallel to the bow string. The only way the idler wheel can lean is if the axle is leaning, and the only way the axle can lean is if it is bent or the top limb is slightly twisted.

Assuming your axle is not bent, you would need to add or remove twists in your yoke to twist the limb in such a way to bring the axle perpendicular to the string. Since your cam and axle are always perpendicular, your cam and string will be parrallel as soon as your string and axle are perpendicular. It sounds worse than it is.


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## Roskoe (Apr 15, 2007)

I have also, in the past, adjusted the idler lean on solo cam bows by twisting one of the yoke forks on the static yoke. I understand, however, that some of the upper level tuners are now putting floating yokes on the solo cam bows and letting the idler lean where it wants to lean. Can anyone comment on this?


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## pyroarch57 (Jul 13, 2006)

Roskoe said:


> I have also, in the past, adjusted the idler lean on solo cam bows by twisting one of the yoke forks on the static yoke. I understand, however, that some of the upper level tuners are now putting floating yokes on the solo cam bows and letting the idler lean where it wants to lean. Can anyone comment on this?


Yep i`ll comment.

*Most* cam _lean_ is actually *caused* by using fixed yokes (I have used both on my Hoyt). 
With the cables out of the guard the cam sits with no lean. With the fixed yoke (because each side of the V is the same length) when you couple the cables to the guard it naturally has to twist the limbs simply because the lower fixure of the cable cannot move. With the floating yoke as you couple up to the guard the lower part of the cable shifts (floats) slightly to the right side of the V which obviously doesn`t put anywhere near as much twist on the limbs.

The difference is if i use a fixed yoke i end up having to twist up the right side to shorten it 4mm whereas using the floating yoke i don`t have to make any adjustment at all, cam lean with that is zero.


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## watermedic23 (Aug 23, 2006)

Floating yoke or fixed yoke you still have to "tune" to get the lean out. I have seen some who allow the upper cam or idler lean and get desirable results this way. I on the other hand do not like it. 

It is usually caused by the cable guard putting side pressure on the string. However it can also be caused by a weak limb or limb tip in the case of solid limb bows.

If you have tried unsuccessfully to paper tune the bow, it wouldn't hurt to take the cam lean out to see if that works.


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## zimtown (Mar 4, 2008)

yup, run a long something (arrow, yard stick, straight edge) along the wheel.

Now, to do this accuratley, take the suppresors out. On a single cam bow, your wheel is centered, BUT you cam is off-set. There for, your string should be at a SLIGHT angle. General rule of thumb here is 1/8" away from your nocking point. 

To tune this, simply press your bow, twist up the opposite side of the yoke that you want your wheel to move. Or untwist the same side as you want the wheel to move.

Just my qualified opinion :shade:


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## modeclan (Mar 15, 2008)

Please also note that setting idler lean is so you're compensating for the rollerguard offset. Have someone stand behind you while you draw the bow so they can watch the string as it comes off the idler to make sure it's tracking straight. That's the reason for twisting the yoke, to get the string coming off the idler straight as you draw. Like others have stated, the 1/8 inch thing is a general rule and usually close, but it's not always exact. Also make sure you don't torque the bow during the initial draw cycle which can put more stress on the idler area. I have seen some guys grip the bow tight to start the draw then settle in to their no-torque grip after drawing. Hope this makes sense and helps.


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