# measuring arrow length



## bow junkie (Feb 1, 2008)

Too many different answers for one question. At what point on the arrow do you cut. Where do you measure from: 1 inch from rest, past riser shelf, I am completely lost after reading all the different posts. 

If this helps, I shoot a 08 82nd, currently set at 65 lbs but may increase to 70 lbs for hunting season. Also I have a 29" DL. I shoot 100grn broadheads, have yet to get arrows for it, but looking at Victory HV V1 300's. 

Thanks for the help.


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## rock monkey (Dec 28, 2002)

depends on what you are going to use the arrow for.


if hunting, you want it past the riser for safety reasons.

for target, depending on the arrow, there's a couple of ways. large diameter carbons like the series22 and bigger shafts from goldtip, they shoot best with the 90-110gr points cut at 1/2" past the contact point of the rest. tryin to get them to 'spine right' is more work than it's worth. even timG recommends the 1/2"+ length.

smaller diameter carbons you have a couple of options. you can tune by node location, tune by dynamic spine adjustment (point weight changes).

with aluminums, you can play with the node location and point weight. fat aluminums are usually left uncut with REAL heavy points to bring the dynamic spine down to 'useable and tuneable' range.

what way is the 'RIGHT' way? no one can definately say. what works for YOU is the right way for YOU.


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## Deezlin (Feb 5, 2004)

This question has probably been around since medeival times. The AMO draw length is taken at full draw and is from the front of the string to the grip in a parallel line to the arrow and then added 1-3/4" to this length. 

Likewise this is the AMO arrow length, but usually people would added about an inch to this for safety. Most risers are a lot thinner today and you should be able to reduce this length some. Also the inch was added for shelf rests and recurves. Now we have positive stops and the head normally can't the riser on center shooting compounds. The actual AMO length is from the throat of the nock to the back of the head.

Proper spine is the major controlling factor and this is basically controlled by the stiffiness of shaft and the length. I like to use On Target to determine the proper spine, FOC, etc. Basically model the arrow in the computer. On Target uses the raw shaft length for calculations. I am also old school and like the little cutting things in front of my hand when hunting.


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## bow junkie (Feb 1, 2008)

*easiest way*

So what is the easiest way for me to get a safe arrow length for a hunting situation. Should I have a buddy make mark on the arrow when I have the bow at full draw, and at what measurement should he make the mark.


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## rock monkey (Dec 28, 2002)

if you dont have a measuring arrow, take an uncut shaft and draw it. have someone mark it for ya,

if ya know your ATA drawlength, add a half inch or so


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## edthearcher (Nov 2, 2002)

*arrow length*

to many people just cut the arrow off just past the arrow rest or just past the riser. keep in mind you have to spine thearrow for the shooter or the bow. to properly tune my arrows I start with a given length, and only make up 3 arrows, than shoot for groups, by cutting off 1/2 inch at a time, with a given point weight. if your arrow is to stiff you have to add weight, to weak than less weight ect.


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## Hoyt Thompson (May 7, 2007)

The method I have adopted as of late. Is I node tune the arrow so that the node is setting right on top of my rest or just ahead of it, then ad 1.5-2" (I like to use a round number to the nearest 1/4") and then spine tune the arow by raising or lowering the weight. 

I spine tune with broadhead tuning on my hunting rig because that is the main purpose for it. 

AS I only have one rig right now then I know I can switch from feild points for 3D to broadheads for hunting and just test shoot before I start doing what it is I intend on doing.

Works for me others have great methods as well.


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## Hoyt Thompson (May 7, 2007)

Hoyt Thompson said:


> The method I have adopted as of late. Is I node tune the arrow so that the node is setting right on top of my rest or just ahead of it, then ad 1.5-2" (I like to use a round number to the nearest 1/4") and then spine tune the arow by raising or lowering the weight.
> 
> I spine tune with broadhead tuning on my hunting rig because that is the main purpose for it.
> 
> ...


Just kidding...lol

I never have understood node tuning. you can start with a raw shaft and as you cut it the node moves toward the center. The more you cut off the more it moves.

Maybe some one will enlighten me later on but I have tryed this and probably wasted a dozen shafts trying different methods and techniques.

I just do not get it.


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## Lincoln (Apr 24, 2009)

simply have somebody mark an arrow 1/4"-1/2" past the rest as long as your broadhead can clear your riser and you are sure of that. it shouldnt be a problem though.. then go find a chart prabably online and make sure your arrow is the correct spine and i would paper tune it afterwords to ensure perfect bullet holes. good luck. hope this is easiest.

Lincoln


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