# My $6 bow press



## bbells (Sep 15, 2010)

I'm not sure if anyone is interested, but I just created a bow press that works fine on my older PSE bow. It cost me $6.
Parts:
1 - 16"x3/8" turnbuckle
2 - 2" x 1/2" metal pipe
1 - 3/8" threaded metal rod (cut to size)
It is pretty easy to make. Drill a slightly larger than 3/8" hole through the middle of each pipe piece (since they are 2" long the center is 1").
Wrap pipe with thin foam and electrical tape.
Put left hand thread end of turnbuckle through hole in middle of pipe. Run it through the end of the bow. Screw it 1/2 inch into turnbuckle.
Slide 3/8" threaded rod through end of bow. Slide pipe on it. Put 2 washers and a nut on the end. Hand tighten nut.
Turn turnbuckle until you can remove string.
Here are some pics:


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## Atchison (Apr 15, 2009)

Same concept as the bowmaster really, looks great, should work on any non split limb bow really!


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## BlacktailBryan (Aug 12, 2010)

If you could use smaller pipe on the end, maybe smaller diameter solid steel rod, you can spend $15 on the quad limb brackets for the bowmaster and use it on split limb bows. NICE.


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## hunt123 (Jan 17, 2009)

Great idea! To make it tighten/loosen easier, you could drill a hole through the end of the turnbuckle and the rod, hammer in a pin, then replace the eye-bolt with a threaded rod and chuck it into a drill. 

Or if that sounds too agressive, keep the eye-bolt and just put a screwdriver through the eye to turn it. It should work really well if the far end of the turnbuckle is pinned to the rod. 

Might need a couple washers between the eye and the small pipe and some grease on the thread. I'm thinking I might make one myself! Thanks for the idea and photo!


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## ftshooter (Jul 26, 2003)

I would protect the bottom of inside limb ..bowmaster just uses two pieces of leather for that ...But, great idea...


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## hunt123 (Jan 17, 2009)

Another thought as something to add: I took a plain old board, cut a 12" piece of 2x4 and bolted it to the board. So the board clamps to my workbench and the 2x4 sticks straight up. 

I cut the head off a 5/16 x 24 bolt and I screw it into my riser. Then drop the other end down into a 5/16" hole in the end of the 2x4. 

Now the bow is held horizontal, it won't flop around and I can work on it. Plus it rotates nicely if you need to get to the other side. Putting your clamp on the bow while it's held in the 2x4 would be perfect. Way easier than trying to work the clamp while the bow was lying on a bed, table, whatever.


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## longcut36 (Nov 16, 2005)

do you really need the turnbuckle. could you turn the nut on the end with a wrench. maybe use a ratch it wrench. just wondering.


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## sproulman (Jan 13, 2010)

if you pull bow and someone tightens the nut by hand,then release string easy you can do it quick.we use same rod and pipe as you do to change the strings on our crossbows.we cock crossbow then finger tighten the nuts on both ends then slowly hold string while we release it.. no turnbuckle is needed..great idea .


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## sits in trees (Oct 9, 2006)

does look great.


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## bbells (Sep 15, 2010)

Yep, I tried it both ways - You can skip the turnbuckle and just tighten the nut on the end. But, the threaded rod was not long enough for my bow. I think 3/16 or even 1/4 inch threaded rod would be adequate.


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## atjunkie (Jul 18, 2006)

i like it. looks simple enough.


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## cheifredman (Jul 20, 2009)

would 1/2" 2inch pipe nipples be adequate if i wrapped it good enough to protect the limbs or would the threading on both side make it to weak


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## scotty624 (Jul 26, 2009)

nice work, is that a nova team fitz or the deer hunter? i'm startin to see more of em round now that i've stop shootin for the summer,

Scotty


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## n5kzw (Sep 14, 2012)

bbells said:


> Yep, I tried it both ways - You can skip the turnbuckle and just tighten the nut on the end. But, the threaded rod was not long enough for my bow. I think 3/16 or even 1/4 inch threaded rod would be adequate.


The advantage of the turnbuckle over the threaded rod is that with the turnbuckle, the threaded rod is not being drawn through the notch in the limb. I think the sliding action would act like a file on the limb or whatever you were using to protect the limb from the rod. This may not be an issue if the bowstring is used to bend the bow and the threaded rod is not used to tension or unload the bow, but in that case. a simple ratchet strap would be faster.


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## slowen (Jun 27, 2006)

Thanks for posting.


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## hydro0309 (Apr 3, 2010)

Be carefull of the turn buckle i had an alum one threads get a reall work out and wear to nothing !


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## handirifle (Jun 9, 2005)

ftshooter said:


> I would protect the bottom of inside limb ..bowmaster just uses two pieces of leather for that ...But, great idea...


I STRONGLY agree with this. I built one almost identical to this. I didn't use pipes and it cause issues as well, but the thread rod tore into my limbs, and now my Mathews has 2 new limbs on it.

I's use nothing less than a rigid plastic tubing to cover it.


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