# How To DIY Bow Side Plates



## tarleet (Aug 11, 2009)

*Removing the old side plates*

First what you need to do is remove your old side plated. if your side plates are like hoyt or bowtech then just simple remove the allen bolt and the plates should fall off. If you have a glue on grip ones like mathews then simple take a hair drier on low setting and heat up your grip only. May take 15-20 minutes. With a little wiggling the grip should come off. Clean off both the bow riser and grip with Goo Gone. Wont harm the bow's finish. Put your side plates in a safe spot.


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## tarleet (Aug 11, 2009)

I got a piece of oak 3/4"x3.5"x36" from the hardware store for like $5.00. The piece was too long so I had to but it down to around 6" in length. Should be something like this.








Since I like a thin grip the 3/4" thick oak was too thick. So it will be have to be rip but down to 1/4". I could have bought 3/16" thick oak but they were more expensive for a smaller piece. Didn't make sense to buy less wood for more. This is where a table saw or a band saw with rip fence would come handy but since this thread is about simple without major power tools i will be rip cutting it by hand.

Now if you like a thick grip then skip this part and the next part.

I first clamp the piece of oak in a vice that is secure to a sturdy work bench. Mark a line in the center of the oak. You can do it by eye, combo square, jig, or fancy scribe tool. Just a line down the center for a reference point. Take a hand saw or dovetail saw (Hack saw can work if that is all you have but not recommend) and start sawing down the center where you marked your line. Don worry if it doesn't saw straight because I cant hand saw worth crap either. Started with power tools and never really learned the proper technique/skill to hand saw. 








Should look something like that. This could yield 2 sets of grip. Like I said, doesn't have to be straight. As you can see i need work on my hand sawing skills. If all else fails take it to a band saw/table saw or just buy the thinner stock.


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## tarleet (Aug 11, 2009)

now that has been cut the edge is rough and uneven. To even it out it'll have to be sanded. First clamp the oak in a vice or tape it down with carpet or double side tape to study surface. Using my Random Orbit sander (A belt sander will do too) I sand down the surface until it look flat and even by eye. Make sure to keep your eye on the oak's thickness as you're sanding. You wouldn't want to sand too much. The top will be too thin and the bottom is too thick or vice verse. You don't want that. Using a ruler to check if its flat. If you don't have an electric sander you can use sand paper on a sanding block (Which can just be a flap piece of wood with the sand paper wrapped around it) with either 40 or 60 grit sand paper. Not as fast and easy as a power sander. You can also use some wood files. Be sure to use a coarse file and clean the file often. Another easy way is to use a wood planner. Now if you happen to have a thickness planer/jointed or a fancy drum sander lucky you. I hate you. LOL :tongue:








After sanding it down I get the thickness around 1/4". That will do for now. not as thin as I like but that's ok. Once we get the basic shape we'll start the fine sanding. Just get the surface flap and even so we can trace on the template.


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## tarleet (Aug 11, 2009)

The oak is now in a rough good size for starting the grip. Take out your old bow side plates. Remember to remove any old adhesive if it has any. If you're bow didnt have side plates and you wanted side plates I will do something separate for making side plate templates from a full grip.

Lay your old side plates (Both of them) on to the oak as shown in below.








If it helps you can plate a small piece of double sided tape on the bottom side of the side plates. Take your pencil and trace the outline of the side plated onto the oak. Remove the side plates. If you used tape be sure to check and clean off any tape residue. Make sure your lines are dark and solid.


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## tarleet (Aug 11, 2009)

This is where having a band saw/scroll saw/jig saw comes handy. I cheated with a band saw (I know my bads but I just got home from work and is a bit tired. But if you dont have one of those you can do with it a hand saw/hack saw. Below are 2 ways you can use to help get those curve cuts.








First is to make small cuts from the edge of the wood to the outside of the line. After you make the small cuts you can cut along the edge of the outline side plate. Dont worry about getting it close to the line. Get is as close as you can and we'll do some fine sanding later.

Another way is to drill holes. I recommend this way for separating the 2 side plates apart. Any size drill bit will work. I used 5/32" drill bit. Why? because that was already in the drill. Drill a series of holes along the edge of the outline side plates. If you find that the drill bit going all the over surface of the wood before it starts drilling there are 2 simple solutions. 1) make a small dent with a nail and hammer where you're going to drill first. Then drill on top of that dent to help guide the drill bit in. 2) Go out and buy a brad point drill bit.








The holes should look something like this. Remember Whenever your doing any hand sawing be sure that the wood is properly clamped into a vise or secure to a sturdy bench/table. Then take your hand/hack saw and saw in between the holes along the outer edge of your side plate outline. I would use a hack saw, just because of the smaller width of the blade will make it easier to make some of those tight curve cuts.








It's ok if the edges are rough like that. We'll clean that up later.

Which method you choose, is up to you and will work fine. Just be patient and take your time. Dont rush it because you can take more material off but you cant put any back. One saying that i've have always heard and listen to is "measure twice and cut once". Has never steered me wrong. You only get one cut so make it count.


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## Hunter555 (Jan 30, 2011)

Thanks for your sharing...... it helps a lot to me.


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## tarleet (Aug 11, 2009)

Now if you dont have a Orbit Sander (Or other power sander) You can use the Wood files to clean up the rough edges. If you dont have any wood files you can use sand paper on a sanding block. I used a paint mixing stick that you can get for free at home depot and a 1/2" scrap PVC pipe with some sand paper wrap around it.

















You don't have to use what I used. Anything flat like a ruler or block of wood. Anything round can be use like a dowel or even your finger but I don't recommend it, your fingers may not like. Just something flat for the sanding the edges and something round for the curves. If you decided to use a file I recommend using a half round file.

Start with 40 or 60 grit sand paper to clean up the rough edges. Get it as close the pencil mark line as you can. This step may take a little elbow grease and some patience. I used an orbit sander with 40 grit sand paper to do the straight edges and the 1/2" PVC pipe with 60 grit sand paper to the inner curve of the side plate.


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## tarleet (Aug 11, 2009)

Once you get the edges cleaned up place your old side plate on top of the new one and compare sizes.








You'll notice that the new side plates are still larger than the old ones. Leaving the old side plate on top of the new one and take your pencil and mark along the sides of the old plates. Get a pencil outline of the areas on the new plates that needs to be sanded down. Sand down the edge of the pencil line.

Take the old plate and place it on top of the new plates and check if they are the same in size. Repeat marking the edges on the new plates that still needs to be sanded down to match the size of the old plates. Keep doing it until you get the new plates to the same size. When they overlay each other it should look something like the picture below.








Repeat the above steps for both the left and right side plates.


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## tarleet (Aug 11, 2009)

Then take your new side plates and dry fit them onto your bow. If they dont fit make note of the edges and repeat the sanding process until you the side plates to fit on your bow.

Should look like this.


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## tarleet (Aug 11, 2009)

Once your side plates fit on your bow leave them there. notice that your side plates sits above the riser. Remember earlier when I said that if you dont get side plates to the right thickness its ok. Well this step is where we do the fine thickness sanding.

With your side plates left in the bow take your pencil and mark along the side of side plate like shown in the picture below.








Here's a shot of it out of the riser








Now Flip the side plate upside down and make a BIG X on the bottom side of the side plate.








The mark side is the side that will be on the riser. This side is not to be sanded. You dont have to make an X but any kind of letter, number, word, or mark so you dont sand the wrong side.


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## tarleet (Aug 11, 2009)

Note: One side plate will be all flat and the other side plate will be slight curve at the top. Or at least it was for these bowtech side plates.

A Dremel can be used for this step but is optional. If you dont have a dremel with drum sander attachment you can buy one at walmart, homedepot, lowes, and other various retailers. They are less than $100. I'd just be careful using one because you can take off too much material in step. I however didnt use a dremel even though i had one. I sanded these down by hand.

This step is tricky because most of your side plate is flat. As you reach the top of the grip you'll notice that it curves up. It's not hard to do just takes a little patience.

First secure your side plate in a vice. Or use some double sided tape and tape your side plate to sturdy bench or table. I used double sided tape because at this point your side plates can be easily break of you use too much pressure with your vise. Using your sanding block (Paint stick for me) and start sanding just below the curve line. Sand down to the pencil mark line. Should look like this.








Then I took my PVC pipe wrapped with sand paper I started sanding the curve part until i reached the line. Then I took my paint stick wrapped in sand paper and sanded the rest of the grip all the way down to the line. Keep your eye on the other side of the plates and make sure that your sanding motion is level to ensure that the thickness on both side is the same. As i mention at the start that I like a thin grip I sanded down level to the riser. if you like a different side plate profile feel free to explore. If you like finger groves by all means add finger grooves. All up to you. I sanded them thin and level.

Do some sanding and then dry fit the side plates.








One part is still not level enough. I marked it with my pencil and did some more sanding. Once I got it all leveled even I rounded the edges with 120 grit sand paper using my paint stick and pvc pipe.

Looks something like this.








Shots of both plates.


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## tarleet (Aug 11, 2009)

That is it for tonight. Stay tuned in. Some fine sanding and different finish options up ahead. i will not be drilling holes for the screws for 2 reasons. 1) I like it without the screws and 2) the plates will be too thin to hold screws. but I will do a step of how to drill the holes. I will be securing my plates with 3M weatherstrip Adhesive.


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

Very informative, I may give it a try with some scrap.


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## DXT122 (Mar 5, 2009)

Here is a set I made for my hoyt Maxxis31. I didnt already have a set of side plates so I had to make my own template so I do know if they are exactly what a professional set would look like but I think they look alright. Definitely took alot of sanding, I would of stained them but I dont know what color I want to go with. Thanks tarleet for the instructions.


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## sb220 (Jul 20, 2009)

Ill definately be trying this. Thanks!


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## poorcountryboy (Jan 31, 2011)

nice they look good


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## tarleet (Aug 11, 2009)

DXT122 said:


> Here is a set I made for my hoyt Maxxis31. I didnt already have a set of side plates so I had to make my own template so I do know if they are exactly what a professional set would look like but I think they look alright. Definitely took alot of sanding, I would of stained them but I dont know what color I want to go with. Thanks tarleet for the instructions.
> View attachment 992896
> View attachment 992897


You're Welcome. They look great!


I got an update coming along. Just have to re-size and upload the pictures.

If you guys have any questions, let me know. I'll try my best to answer them.


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## tarleet (Aug 11, 2009)

*Finish Option One*

Before you can finish your side plates, you need to do some find sanding. Be sure to sand with the grain of the wood so you can get out all the scratches. Start with 80 grit. Switch to 120. Go to 220 and then 400. You can stop at 400 just as long as you get all the scratches out. it does take a while to sand so be patience, it'll pay off when you're staining the wood.

After the sanding it's time to drill your holes for the screws (Or leave it as is like me). 

What you'll need:
Drill press (Hand/Electric drill works too)
3/16" Twist/brad point drill bit
3/8" Forstner drill bit

There are you 2 ways. 

1) Placing your old side plate on top of the new one and tracing the hole. This way is good but there is a lot of room for error.

















Should give you something like that.

method 2) Take your new side plate and dry fit them on to your bow. holding the side plate in place, turn your bow upside down. Insert in a 3/4" drill bit in the other side. Slightly push on the drill bit until it touches the side plate. Add a little pressure to the drill bit will give you a small dent for reference point to where we will be drilling the new hole.







Make sure that the side plate is on properly on the other side.

Should give you a mark like this.







Start with the 3/16" twist/brad point bit first. Before you start drilling place the side plate on top of another flap piece of wood. By doing so it will prevent the bottom side to splinter and ensures a clean hole. Drill all the way through the side plate. Then take your 3/8 forstner bit and line it up with the 3/16" hole you just drill. (NOTE: Be careful drilling this next part. YOU WILL NOT BE DRILLING ALL THE WAY THROUGH). Once your forstner bit is align with your hole start drilling. Drill SLOWLY. Drill in about 1/8" ONLY. It should give you a hole like your old side plate. I don't have any pictures because since I didn't plan on holes for my side plates so I don't have the right size drill bits. Last, dry fit the side plates and check if the hole is align with the bow riser.


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## tarleet (Aug 11, 2009)

Now for the staining process. Head down to your local hardware store and pick up your choice of stain or finish oil, such as linseed oil. Pick a light stain shade for a more natural look. Get a heavier shade for a dark look. Minwax makes these nice small 1/2 pint size stain cans. Great for small projects like this. I got Minwax 2750 'Jacobean' for a dark heavy look. Be sure to pick up some brushes too. I got a big variety pack of foam brushes for like 3 bucks at big lots. I use foam because they can reduce brush strokes and dont leave brush bristle in the finish (I also like foam brushes because they are cheap so I can afford to throw them away after I'm done using them). Any kind of brush will work. If you dont mind getting dirty you can use a shop rag or paper towel to apply on the finish too. While you're at the store remember to pick up some clear acrylic spray, wood lacquer, or clear wood sealer. I will be using an aerosol spray lacquer. 








Layout some news paper or cardboard (what I used) or stain on a table/work bench that can get dirty. Really dirty. Be sure that the area you work in is well ventilated. I would recommend wearing a vapor mask, apron, and gloves (I like nitrate gloves, but latex and vinyl will work also). Also make sure to have plenty of shop rags or paper towels.

Before we start working, make sure you have a light/air tight container. A metal one is preferred but any container that is light/air tight. Reason for this is that oil base stain can spontaneously combusted if exposed to too much heat or warn light even though it is winter time better be safe than sorry. I'm sure there are a few wood workers or carpenters that can relate.

Ok with that said, layout your side plates. Dip your brush in the stain and apply it to the side plate. If you want a lighter look put on a light coat. This way if you want it darker you can add more stain and make it darker. If its too dark you cant make it lighter again. If you like a dark look then apply on a thick and generous coat. once the stain is applied on, let it sit for at least a hour. for a darker look let it sit for at least 4-6 hours.








Once you have let it sit and soak up the stain, wipe off any excess stain. i left mine on for 4 hours. here is what it looks like.








Since it is cold I will be applying on two 4 hour coats. i tired doing a 8 hour coat but with the cold the stain got all nasty and sticky.

If you are satisfy with how it looks, let the side plates sit to dry for at least 24 hours. If not apply on another coat of stain. 48-72 hours is recommended for some stain. Be sure to read and follow the instructions that come with your stain. My method may and probably will be different but it is the way that I was taught. if you know or like a different way to apply a stain finish, by all means go for it.

Once your side plates has dried (mine hasn't yet) its time to apply the clear coat. take your lacquer and apply on one light coat. Wait 2 hours and then wet sand it with at least 400 grit sand paper. Only need a light sanding to remove any air pockets. Apply a second coat and let it sit for another 2 hours. Repeat wet sanding. The third and final coat is added on. The last is applied on a thick. Allow 24 hours dry time and finish off with light 400-800 grit wet sanding. I will post pictures of how mine looks when its completely dry. While that is drying, here is finish option number 2.


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## tarleet (Aug 11, 2009)

*Finished Option 2*

This finish option doesn't require a really fine sanding. What you will need:

2 part General purpose Epoxy
Mixing tool (I used plastic knife and throw it away after I'm done)
Bottom of a soda can (I will explain why I used the bottom of a soda can)
Candle or small heat source (I will explain why one is needed)
jig (I will show picture of it)
Epoxy pigment (Best choice and can be order online. Google "Epoxy Pigment" and select a site to order from or Acrylic paint (Must be Acrylic paint because they are pigment base) what I used because I didnt want to wait the pigment order in the mail. LOL Bought a set of colors at walmart for $10 bucks. has all sorts of color. I will be using black. Or a single bottle of one color is like $2. Other alternatives, the powder from laser printer toners (Only laser printers as they use powder ink. Liquid inks from ink jets wont work with the epoxy. Can affect the epoxy curing process) can be used. only problem is they only come in 4 colors Black, Cyan, magenta, and yellow. Any other color you want will have to be a mixture of those 4 colors.

My fancy jig that will be holding my grip.








It's made of a scrap 2x4x12" wood with two 1/2x1/2x4" glued on. Super high tech fancy, I know! LOL. Its simple but effective.

Take some double sided tape and tape one side plate on each of the post on your jig.







This will suspend the side plate in mid air so that the side plate isn't touching a surface. This way is doesn't get glued on to the surface. 

Now mix your 2 part epoxy in the bottom of a soda can. Using a candle apply a LITTLE heat (just a little not too much because some epoxy can and is flammable). Thats why I use the bottom of a soda can. Adding a little heat to help with the mixing process. Epoxy can be a pain when its cold. Mix it well.








Then take your pigment or acrylic paint. Add in a few drops to the epoxy. Only need a few drops to change the color of the epoxy.








With your new black epoxy apply it in to your side plates. use a brush, stick, whatever way you want. I put on some gloves and used my finger. Try to apply a coat on as even as you can. 


























Let the epoxy sit for at least 24 hours to ensure that it is completely cure. Even 5 minute epoxy needs 24 hours cure time. the 5 minutes is the set time not cure time.

This is it for tonight. Have to let everything sit and dry before I can continue. If you have any question let me know. I'll answer them as much as I can or point you in the right directions.


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## tarleet (Aug 11, 2009)

*Finished Stain Side Plate*








Here is what it looks like. After 8 hours total of staining and 3 clear coats. I will have more pictures of it on the bow soon. The epoxy finish one isnt dont yet. Epoxy requires more attention to detail and finish look.


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## HawgEnvy (Mar 2, 2011)

I will be doing this. Thanks for the write up. Much appreciated. These directions are very easy to follow. "So easy a caveman could do it". Looking forward to part 2


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## whack&stack (Oct 15, 2007)

fantastic write up thanks for doing that i will be doing this to one of my bows soon, but i will be making thicker side plates as i think the grip is too skinny thanks again.


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## tarleet (Aug 11, 2009)

Thanks, I never did a part 2 because of the little interest in it. But it is pretty easy when dealing with wood just takes a little elbow grease.


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

This is a fun project, I made some for my Destroyer and they feel great.


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