# Hoyt CRX 35 and Fuel Cam & 1/2 tuning



## Sweaver (Mar 12, 2011)

Ok, I've read, reread, slept on it, and read again the JAVI Cam & 1/2 tuning sticky. I fully understand what is getting accomplished, but with the Fuel Cam & 1/2 there are not any tuning marks on the cam. So when doing this method, do you just go by the ATA, BH, DW, DL, and Cam Stops? 

If the cams hit the stops at the correct time and all the measurements are in place, I would assume all is well, but is there a possibility of the cams not being synched and timed?

Thank you fellow AT'ers,
Sweaver


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## Robert43 (Aug 2, 2004)

Set your axel to axel & bh check draw stops if all correct its in time simple


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## Sweaver (Mar 12, 2011)

That's what I was thinking as well. Sounds simple, bring all measurements to spec, then fine tune. 

Thank you.


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## bl00dtrail (Aug 17, 2008)

how do you set your brace height correctly if you've changed out the factory grip or are shooting off the riser?


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## Reverend (Nov 2, 2004)

I don't think that setting the A2A and BH will automatically sync the cams. You should sync cams afterwards.


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## Kade (Jan 11, 2011)

bl00dtrail said:


> how do you set your brace height correctly if you've changed out the factory grip or are shooting off the riser?


The same way you do with the grip. Your just going to be about a 1/4" longer. 

People need to remember that factory specs are a STARTING point only. They are not set in stone. If your bow is supposed to be 35.5" with a 7" bh and it's 36" with a 7.25" it's not gonna hurt anything. 

If you took a tape to all the bows that Hoyts pros use I beat less then 10% of them are at factory specs. 


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## bl00dtrail (Aug 17, 2008)

Kade said:


> The same way you do with the grip. Your just going to be about a 1/4" longer.
> 
> People need to remember that factory specs are a STARTING point only. They are not set in stone. If your bow is supposed to be 35.5" with a 7" bh and it's 36" with a 7.25" it's not gonna hurt anything.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the answer. So just account for the grip in your brace measurement +/-... got it.

Now why would the 'pros' not have their bow within factory specs? Hoyts tune chart is very specific on measurements (even down to the 1/16'' on ATA) but your saying +/- 1/2" is Ok? What would make someone (pros) want to shoot their bow out of spec? Just curious...


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## Kade (Jan 11, 2011)

bl00dtrail said:


> Thanks for the answer. So just account for the grip in your brace measurement +/-... got it.
> 
> Now why would the 'pros' not have their bow within factory specs? Hoyts tune chart is very specific on measurements (even down to the 1/16'' on ATA) but your saying +/- 1/2" is Ok? What would make someone (pros) want to shoot their bow out of spec? Just curious...


Like I said earlier. Factory specs are a STARTING point and not set in stone. 

The best target shooter in the country Jesse Broadwater shoots a VE+, that bow at his specs should be in the 39.5" range. His is around 38.25-50". Why set them up different then spec? Because they are setting the bows up to fit them and how they want them setup. 

I'm not saying set the bow up wrong. But don't get all wrapped up in "specs". Set the bow up right and shoot it. If the bow is off on ata by a 1/4" or so I sure as heck wouldn't put it in the press and worry about it. 


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## hrtlnd164 (Mar 22, 2008)

Kade said:


> Like I said earlier. Factory specs are a STARTING point and not set in stone.
> 
> The best target shooter in the country Jesse Broadwater shoots a VE+, that bow at his specs should be in the 39.5" range. His is around 38.25-50". Why set them up different then spec? Because they are setting the bows up to fit them and how they want them setup.
> 
> ...



Exactly correct. This issue comes up very often with those new to the Hybrid type system. Specs are approximate starting points, then adjust the bow to fit you and make sure the timing is set. I feel that timing is everything as far as performance goes on this system. It is a system that is very tunable to your feel and style, that's what makes it so great.


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## bl00dtrail (Aug 17, 2008)

Very interesting!


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## Marvin (Feb 17, 2005)

i will second what Kade posted. on my cam &1/2 the ONLY way i can get my lower cam into proper timing is to lengthen the buss cable. my bow is just over a 1/4 inch long and brace is about 1/16th short but she is in time and shooting smooth and quiet. I twisted every which way with the control cable to try to get it into rotation and nothing worked.


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## FS560 (May 22, 2002)

There is nothing sacred, holy, or cast in stone about cam position on compound bows ( with one exception ). Cams will work from many different positions, only the shooting characteristics of the bow will be different. With various adjustments, it is possible to make a compound bow do whatever you want it to do, whether it be one cam, one cam hybrid, or two cam. Remember, now, that hybrid systems like Hoyt are really one cam technology but with more flexibility and better nock travel in the vertical plane.

The one exception from above would be cams with a supressor foot. These really do work better if the foot is allowed to act as intended as a string stop and string shortening device.


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## Sweaver (Mar 12, 2011)

Very good. After tuning my CRX it came in a little long A2A and right on BH. I'm shooting side plates, so this make sense. Shoots great broadheads and top cam hits just ahead of bottom cam, but not by much.


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## PA.JAY (May 26, 2004)

you know I shot all my hoyts with the top hitting before the bottom I was just checking the PE and I set it up to hit the same time and it feels better more solid now .


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