# Moving nocking point or rest



## Bearcarver (Feb 26, 2003)

If your paper tear shows that your nocking point is too high, instead of moving it lower can you raise you rest instead? Some people say you can and some say no.


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## njshadowwalker (Aug 14, 2004)

Bearcarver said:


> If your paper tear shows that your nocking point is too high, instead of moving it lower can you raise you rest instead? Some people say you can and some say no.


Yes. A high tear would mean the nock needs to go down. Raising the rest will do the same thing. What i do is move the nock. But tonight after getting fed up with brass nocks i went back to the previous method.

I had a speedloop nock. Similiar to using a nock above and below the arrow. Uses two screws. Its not that huge 5 start nock. This is small. It aken literally 60 seconds to loosen the screws, and slide the speed nock and loop up/down a little at a time. Be shooting bullet holes in no time.  

A simple answer to your question however is yes.


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## BowOnly (Sep 28, 2004)

I always move the rest, I use a D loop and I don't want to change my anchor or my peep. Plus the set screws are on the rest for a reason


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## SteveR (Sep 18, 2002)

I've never liked moving my rest, though I'm not sure it makes a huge difference. I use tied-on string nocks. They twist up and down the string super easy. You can micro-adjust your nock point within seconds, and keep the arrow on the berger button hole at the same time. Nothing works better in my opinion.


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## bubba_brandy22 (Jan 24, 2005)

*Yep!*

I could not agree with you more!!!!!



SteveR said:


> I've never liked moving my rest, though I'm not sure it makes a huge difference. I use tied-on string nocks. They twist up and down the string super easy. You can micro-adjust your nock point within seconds, and keep the arrow on the berger button hole at the same time. Nothing works better in my opinion.


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## Tafkas (May 22, 2002)

Move the nock for major adjustments, as it has much more effect than moving the rest. Move the rest for fine tuning or distance tuning.


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## AllenRead (Jan 12, 2004)

Most bows are designed for the arrow to be positioned at the berger hole. Moving the rest changes this geometry. 

You guys are right that it is a pain to move a D loop. I think that that is why GRIV, HPM and others don't use them.

I don't understand the geometry behind this and wish that GRIV would give us a little insight into this?  

Hope this helps,
Allen


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## atlasmlc (Nov 2, 2002)

I have had a lot of difficulty getting my tied-in nocks to move. Am I tying them too tight?? Does anyone have good instructions on how to tie in string nocks? I have been using dental floss in the past. Is serving a better choice?


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## SteveR (Sep 18, 2002)

Before I tie on my string nocks, I wax my serving real well. The nock is tied with two layers, one on top of the other. When the nock is tied, I then put a drop of glue on them to hold them together better and give a better grip for turning them. If you do this, you can tie them fairly tight and they'll only move when you want them to, and without too much effort. It's real simple to move a string nock 1/64 of an inch. You can take quarter turns or half turns or multiple turns. No better or easier micro-adjustment that I've ever tried.


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## njshadowwalker (Aug 14, 2004)

SteveR said:


> Before I tie on my string nocks, I wax my serving real well. The nock is tied with two layers, one on top of the other. When the nock is tied, I then put a drop of glue on them to hold them together better and give a better grip for turning them. If you do this, you can tie them fairly tight and they'll only move when you want them to, and without too much effort. It's real simple to move a string nock 1/64 of an inch. You can take quarter turns or half turns or multiple turns. No better or easier micro-adjustment that I've ever tried.


I too would tie my nocks in if i knew how. But I'm a firm believer in if it works leave it alone. 

Except with my car that is. Damn mustang always needs a new go fast part


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