# Recurve bow poundage



## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

bowhunter17wa said:


> This may be a dumb question to some of you but Im new to traditional archery. I am looking to buy a recurve and I am leaning toward a 55 pound bow for elk hunting. I found an excellent deal on a martin mamaba but its a 65pound bow. I was told that you can change the weight by using a little shorter/longer string. Is this true or simply someone BSing me??????


Mostly BS. Think about it from an exaggeration: You could put a string so long that the bow wouldn't even brace and that when pulled to your draw length would only be 1 pound and have a only 1 inch power stroke before the string went completely slack. Or you could use a string so short that you could only pull the bow string back a few inches and would take 65 pounds to pull back the bow 1 inch. But in reality, no, you don't change string length to reduce the bow's draw weight. Shorten it for tuning? To reduce string vibration? Or maybe even affect arrow tune just a smidge? Sure. Draw weight? Not so much.


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## Jamesw (Sep 14, 2007)

No that will not work.Any bow has a certain braceheight range they will work at.Going outside the norm enough to change weight enough to notice can be bad for the bow and will give you nothing.Wait for a lighter bow instead of buying a bow too heavy or you will be wasteing your money.jAny time when in doubt about bow weight err on the side of lighter instead of heavier and you will be better off.mo


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## J0nathan (Jan 10, 2009)

If you don't mind shooting a bow with a metal riser, the KAP T-Rex is supposed to be nice, I believe it goes up to fifty-six pounds.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

17wa - 

Well, most bows will gain or loose 1 - 3# per inch of brace height, that's nowhere near enough to make any kind of difference. Both bow you mention3ed are way too heavy for a first stickbow.

Viper1 out.


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

bowhunter17wa said:


> This may be a dumb question to some of you but Im new to traditional archery. I am looking to buy a recurve and I am leaning toward a 55 pound bow for elk hunting. I found an excellent deal on a martin mamaba but its a 65pound bow. I was told that you can change the weight by using a little shorter/longer string. Is this true or simply someone BSing me??????


Not a dumb question at all.

We much rather you ask...than dissappoint or frustrate yourself later.

If you have any history of shooting a compound bow regularly than I would suggest getting a trad bow that is 60 - 70% of you compound bows draw weight....but if you have no history you should start off with a bow in the 20 to 40lbs. range.

The ONLY way you will know for sure is to actually try one out before you buy it. Some people are just gonna be naturally stronger than others.

A general rule of thumb is to be able to comfortably hold the bow at full draw at your anchor without colapsing (draw length shortens) for about 10 sec.

Mambas are good bows...but they can be on the short side for some people which can make it more challenging to master.

As far as adjusting draw weight by adjusting brace height...it's going to be minimal at best and you normally want to stay within the manufactures recommended brace height.

Ray


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## I'm Not Ted (Feb 12, 2009)

I'm not sure, but I think I've heard somewhere, you can either take your bow into specialty shops or send it in to certain places (maybe a place like Martin?) and they will supposedly add poundage or subtract it. I get the impression that it is costly though...


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## TheShadowEnigma (Aug 16, 2008)

BLACK WOLF said:


> If you have any history of shooting a compound bow regularly than I would suggest getting a trad bow that is 60 - 70% of you compound bows draw weight....but if you have no history you should start off with a bow in the 20 to 40lbs. range.


I would venture to say 20 to 40 lbs is even too high. 20lbs is about a good area to start, but 30lbs is max. If you are new to archery, form is _vital_ to learn. It is incredibly hard to learn form with a heavy bow. However that is my 2 cents. It never hurts to have a low poundage bow, and then buy a heavier one later (Or new limbs if you go for an ILF bow). Lighter bow is always good to practice form on.


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## bowhunter17wa (Feb 6, 2009)

*Thanks for the insight*

Thanks for everyones input. Im going to pass on this particular bow. I shot some 55 lb martins and they felt really nice. Ive shot a 70 lb martin compound for 3 years so I think that has really benefited me on being able to start with a little higher poundage but I think I'll look for a 55lb.


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## SteveB (Dec 18, 2003)

What lbs you shot with a compound has NO bearing on what wght recurve you should get to learn to shoot. Your 70lb compound had at least 60% letoff which means you where holding 28lb at the most.

A 55lb recurve will better then double your holding wght making your learning curve to shooting well a lot longer. Thatis if you can get there before picking up bad habits that will be extremely hard to break,

Steve


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

Having a history of shooting a compound DOES have a bearing on your ability to also pull a trad bow...just as lifting weights will have some bearing.

To say it has absolutely no bearing is FALSE.

I agree...your holding weight with a compound bow is no where near what you would be holding with a trad bow...but if you are drawing 70lbs. with your compound on a regular bases with ease...it will apply to your ability to a specific poundage with your new trad bow. For the average archer a comfortable draw weight to learn with will be close to 60 to 70% of your compound bow's draw weight.

Believe it or not...I personally started shooting an 80lbs. trad bow after years of shooting compounds in the 80lbs. range and years of lifting weights as a competitive bodybuilder. If that didn't have any bearing on my ability...there would have been no way that I would have been able to start with an 80lbs. trad bow.

Ray


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## SteveB (Dec 18, 2003)

Lets list every possible exception.

Fact is the overwhelming majority of those who start with the wght bow the OP says he is, will have a far longer learnig curve to those who don't. And a slow learning curve frustrates many to the point where they either quit or accept mediocre or poor shooting with ingrained bad habits that will be difficult or impossible to break. 

A lot easier to learn the right way, then to try to unlearn and relearn.

Steve


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

SteveB said:


> Lets list every possible exception.


Yes...I and a few others may be exceptions but another exception would be...an archer who couldn't learn correct shooting form with a 42lbs. trad bow who has a history of comfortably shooting a 70lbs. compound. on a regular bases. We're not talking about the weekend warrior who only occassionally shoots his bow before hunting season.

Did you regularly shoot a compound bow before you started with trad bows?

70lbs. compound = 42 - 49lbs. trad bow
60lbs. compound = 36 - 42lbs. trad bow
50lbs. compound = 30 - 35lbs. trad bow

Sure...an even lighter weight bow like 20lbs. would be even easier for most anyone...but it isn't necessarily needed.

There is nothing set in stone that says that all archers have to start out with a 30 - 35lbs. trad bow or less.

It's totally based on the individual and their background.

Again...to say it has absolutely no bearing would be WRONG.

Ray


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## bowhunter17wa (Feb 6, 2009)

SteveB, you are correct about my compound. It has a 65% let off, but as Black Wolf was talking about, I am not one of those weekend warriors who only shoot a few times before hunting season. I dont shoot every single day but I do shoot at least at least 300-400 arrows every week. Im certainly no body builder but my background in construction and the fact that I shoot my compound so much certainly has to make a differance from me and the average joe. Im not trying to be overconfident or say that your wrong because for most people that dont shoot much you are probably right.

As Ive heard many times, you want to be able to hold the bow at full draw for at least 10 seconds. With my compound I can hold it for about 3 minutes so I checked that with a martin x-200 55 lbs at the local sportsmans warehouse. I held it for about 45 seconds comfortably. Im not looking to go win any tournaments with a recurve but I do want to be confident that I can make a clean kill on an elk. I certainly dont want to develope any bad habits but I dont think that its ethical to try taking an animal with a bow thats on the low side of poundage. On top of that, the lowest poundage you can legally use for big game hunting here in washington is 40lbs at 28" and I wouldnt feel comfortable shooting a large deer with that. But I do thank all of you for your input.


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## Jamesw (Sep 14, 2007)

I have heard many,many archers say they wish they had started out with a lighter weight bow than they did.Never heard the first one say I should have started with a heavier bow.:wink:

Buy the one you like.The used market is fueled by people that buy bows heavier than they should.:darkbeer:


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

17wa -

I seriously suggest you go for either the 55# or 65# bow you mentioned. It's the only way you'll find out what works and what doesn't.

Basically, I'm starting to take the same approach with some folks as the guy in my pro shop. After a few decades of this stuff, when people come in looking for a "hunting" bow, he shows them what's in stock. If they want a 60# or 70# bow, he warns them ONCE about it being a mistake. If they still want it, he writes up the sale.

So, go for it.

Viper1 out.


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

bowhunter17wa;1053989339I certainly dont want to develope any bad habits but I dont think that its ethical to try taking an animal with a bow thats on the low side of poundage. On top of that said:


> The issue you are facing is that you want to buy your hunting weight bow right off the bat rather than an intermediate bow to train your form. Since you are such a serious practitioner, perhaps you can borrow a lighter bow for a month or two to work on your form?


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

bowhunter17wa said:


> With my compound I can hold it for about 3 minutes so I checked that with a martin x-200 *55 lbs *at the local sportsmans warehouse. *I held it for about 45 seconds comfortably*.


Did any of you guys read that?

He said he could hold a 55lbs. trad bow for 45 sec. I doubt some of you can't even hold your target bows that long.

I sure hope he was describing holding it at full fraw and not just in his hand...otherwise I might be eating crow 

Ray


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

BLACK WOLF said:


> Did any of you guys read that?
> 
> He said he could hold a 55lbs. trad bow for 45 sec. I doubt some of you can't even hold your target bows that long.
> 
> ...


Nope, missed that. Good point.


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## LBR (Jan 1, 2004)

> As Ive heard many times, you want to be able to hold the bow at full draw for at least 10 seconds. With my compound I can hold it for about 3 minutes so I checked that with a martin x-200 55 lbs at the local sportsmans warehouse. I held it for about 45 seconds comfortably. Im not looking to go win any tournaments with a recurve but I do want to be confident that I can make a clean kill on an elk. I certainly dont want to develope any bad habits but I dont think that its ethical to try taking an animal with a bow thats on the low side of poundage. On top of that, the lowest poundage you can legally use for big game hunting here in washington is 40lbs at 28" and I wouldnt feel comfortable shooting a large deer with that. But I do thank all of you for your input.


Obviously nobody can tell you what will or won't work for you from behind a computer screen. Most folks won't do as well starting out heavier, but most folks can't hold 55# at full draw for 45 seconds either.

If at all possible, get with a coach or a knowledgeable archer and get their opinion. If you don't know them personally, check their credentials--anyone can claim to be some sort of guru.

You just have to be honest with yourself--going too heavy will make the learning process slower, but just because 55# is too much for most doesn't mean it's too much for everyone. 

FWIW, 40# is plenty for deer if you do your part. Draw weight is only part of the equation.

Chad


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

WB - 



Warbow said:


> Nope, missed that. Good point.


Actually, not a good point at all. Holding a bow back for a given amount of time may test muscle strength, but not shooting strength. There's typically no sence of "form" in that exercise and no idea what will happen when the string actually breaks free. (It's why we don't let serious shooters work with "weight lifting bows" until form has been firmly established.) 

Viper1 out.


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## LBR (Jan 1, 2004)

> I dont shoot every single day but I do shoot at least at least 300-400 arrows every week. Im certainly no body builder but my background in construction and the fact that I shoot my compound so much certainly has to make a differance from me and the average joe.


I'd still advise getting with a coach or someone who knows a bit about shooting a bow, but based on the above I'd say that being able to hold 55# for 45 seconds is indeed a good sign. Not sure what else it could be--it's not like you are a 10 year old Boy Scout who's never shot a bow at all. 

The primary reason a lower draw weight is advised is because you want to be comfortably in control. You don't want the first thing on your mind to be releasing the string. Too much weight leads to rushing the shot rather than concentrating on form. My bet is most beginners can't hold their "target weight" bows for near 45 seconds, and it's just fine for them.

Chad


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## GEREP (May 6, 2003)

To each his own I guess but you might want to keep one thing in mind. If you search the various traditional archery sites, you will find countless posts where people indicate that if they had it to do all over again, they would have started out with a lighter weight bow. I've* NEVER *seen one where they said I wish I would have started out heavier.

Draw from that what you will.

:wink:

KPC


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

Viper1 said:


> Actually, not a good point at all. Holding a bow back for a given amount of time may test muscle strength, but not shooting strength. There's typically no sence of "form" in that exercise and no idea what will happen when the string actually breaks free. (It's why we don't let serious shooters work with "weight lifting bows" until form has been firmly established.)
> 
> Viper1 out.


I'm not sure what "shooting strength" is. I do understand that strength is range specific, which is one of the reasons that compound shooters are mistaken in believing that drawing through a heavy peak weight means they are that strong at anchor. I also understand that using heavy limbs to build up strength without regards to form can develop bad habits and could be very counterproductive. And I know that using a light bow can help magnify shooting errors, such as a bad release, forcing one to use good form to get good results. But, the OP does seem exceptionally strong and it does also seem possible that a 55 pound bow to him will feel like a 22 pound bow to me.


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

GEREP said:


> To each his own I guess but you might want to keep one thing in mind. If you search the various traditional archery sites, you will find countless posts where people indicate that if they had it to do all over again, they would have started out with a lighter weight bow. I've* NEVER *seen one where they said I wish I would have started out heavier.
> 
> Draw from that what you will.
> 
> ...


Well, I do think I saw one person say we was just fine starting with a heavy bow. But, generally, I think you are spot on. And, as someone said earlier, it is easy to buy heavy bows on eBay, with people selling them, saying stuff like "hurt shoulder, have to sell bow".


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## GEREP (May 6, 2003)

Warbow said:


> Well, I do think I saw one person say we was just fine starting with a heavy bow.


I think I saw that one too, but he's getting divorced now and *"has to sell his bow."*

:wink:

KPC


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

WB -

Oddly enough, everybody seems exceptionally strong on the Internet. Give most healthy adult men a 55# bow and they'll be able to hold it back a fair amount of time with only some fatigue showing - OK, that's a variable. That's muscle strength.

Now do the same exercise and have the guy thinking about an anchor, shoulder alignment, follow-through, heck even aiming, while trying not to creep in on the draw length, and that's something different. If draw weight factors in AT ALL during the shot process, it's too much. That's shooting strength.

Wouldn't be the first time I worked with a guy shooting a 60# hunitng bow wh ostarted shaking like a leaf with a 35# target bow *with a clicker*.

Viper1 out.


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## DwayneR (Feb 23, 2004)

Hello Viper,



> Oddly enough, everybody seems exceptionally strong on the Internet. Give most healthy adult men a 55# bow and they'll be able to hold it back a fair amount of time with only some fatigue showing - OK, that's a variable. That's muscle strength.


 Exceptionally strong and Exceptionally good shot... seems to be the case.



> Now do the same exercise and have the guy thinking about an anchor, shoulder alignment, follow-through, heck even aiming, while trying not to creep in on the draw length, and that's something different. If draw weight factors in AT ALL during the shot process, it's too much. That's shooting strength.


 Totally Agree. Just trying to keep a proper anchor with a 55# bow for 45 seconds will definitely get this kid. And if the creep doesn't get it, the string cutting into my fingers will numb them.



> Wouldn't be the first time I worked with a guy shooting a 60# hunitng bow wh ostarted shaking like a leaf with a 35# target bow with a clicker.


 Yep... Many a time I have worked with the same situation.

This reminds me... (highjack here).. I worked with a gent that made his own clicker with a wire and a magnet... The end result was, he did not have to keep trimming his arrows down until they were perfect. He bent the wire either in or out, until it was at the correct drawlength. Pretty neat idea, and very cost effective.

Dwayne


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## LBR (Jan 1, 2004)

> Exceptionally strong and Exceptionally good shot... seems to be the case.


You forgot to include "exceptionally knowledgable in any and all things archery, no experience required". :wink:

55# may or may not be more than this fellow can handle--we can't diagnose that any more than a doctor can diagnose a rash from a description on a message board.

Since he's been shooting a 70# compound with only 65% let-off (approx. 45# holding weight) the last three years, chances are good he can control it, especially if he shoots with fingers. Not many people snap-shoot a compound--most hold much longer than traditional shooters.

55# may be too much--probably is--but nobody can say that for sure (at least not honestly or intelligently) "just because".

I'm curious to know what weight you start out kids or anyone who is weaker than the average guy, who couldn't come close to shooting a "60# hunting bow". If a guy who shoots 60# can't handle 35#, what do you start someone with who can only shoot 30#?

I'd have to see that myself.

Chad


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

Viper1 said:


> WB -
> 
> Oddly enough, everybody seems exceptionally strong on the Internet. Give most healthy adult men a 55# bow and they'll be able to hold it back a fair amount of time with only some fatigue showing - OK, that's a variable. That's muscle strength.
> 
> ...


I don't disagree with you in general principle. But, I also realize that some people are stronger than others, though they may not have the range specific strength needed for proper archery form. I certainly would think that 55# would be too much bow to recommend for learning good form, but there are some people who could be exceptions with the word *exception* being the operative one. Is this guy the exception? I dunno.

BTW, what was the guy in the example doing with a clicker? IIRC, you don't teach people to use clickers until they've established their form.


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

bowhunter17wa said:


> I am *not* one of those weekend warriors who only shoot a few times before hunting season. I dont shoot every single day but *I do shoot at least at least 300-400 arrows every week*.



Do some of you guys actually read? 

It really cracks me up that some of you have the mentality that everybody must start out with as light or lighter of a bow than you started with type mentality...where everyone must start with a 30lbs. or less bow.

This isn't 4H or the girlscouts...some of these guys are actually men who have a history of shooting bows.

My guess is...shooting 300 - 400 arrows/week...this guy probably has a clue to what good form should be and what an anchor point is.

It's so often I read from the same guys that recommend ultralight bows for stronger guys that compound archery form is basically the same as trad archery form...which I basically agree with.

This guy is NOT new to this sport.

If he says he can hold a 55lbs. trad bow back for 45 sec. (which most of you target shooters can't probably do with your target bows) and has on average shoots 300 - 400 arrows/week. I'm sure he is NOT just drawing that bow back without any idea of what archery form is or what an anchor point is.

Ray


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

WB -



> BTW, what was the guy in the example doing with a clicker? IIRC, you don't teach people to use clickers until they've established their form.


LOL I don't. He wanted to try OLY shooting, I wasn't coaching him. And yes, the guy in this case dropped it pretty quickly. Unfortunately, most people don't listen the first time around. With trad stuff, it;s usually too heavy too soon, the corollary with OLY stuff, is "I wanna use what the pros use". Remarkably similar outcomes though.

Making the switch to OLY is a different thread. 

Viper1 out.


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## SteveB (Dec 18, 2003)

> Since he's been shooting a 70# compound with only 65% let-off (approx. 45# holding weight)


65% let off means you subtract the 45# - 25# would be the holding weight.



> Did you regularly shoot a compound bow before you started with trad bows?


No I did not. Started with a 53lb recurve - took 4 years and 1000's of shots to undo and get to the level I am now. Still shoot primarily 53 to 55 but have a 40# that I shoot for form work. I sincerely believe starting with the 40 would have cut that 4 years to 1.

I shoot well enough so I do get asked a lot for advice. Well not having formal training, I feel I understand the basics enough to explain what works for me. But the vast majority who ask, do really not want help if it requires the work needed to make real changes. Most are looking for the "secret" that will transform them immediately. I generally wish them luck - just as I do the OP.



> Again...to say it has absolutely no bearing would be WRONG.


Very little bearing is as "right" as I can conceed in MYO.

Steve


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

SteveB said:


> 65% let off means you subtract the 45# - 25# would be the holding weight.


I know this wasn't directed at me but you are absolutely right!




SteveB said:


> No I did not. Started with a 53lb recurve - took 4 years and 1000's of shots to undo and get to the level I am now. Still shoot primarily 53 to 55 but have a 40# that I shoot for form work. I sincerely believe starting with the 40 would have cut that 4 years to 1.
> 
> Very little bearing is as "right" as I can conceed in MYO.


So you never shot a compound bow and started with a 53lbs. recurve and believe you would have been better off starting with a 40lbs. recurve...correct?

Here's a guy that has been shooting a 70lbs. compound bow for an average of 300 -400 arrows/week and can hold a 55lbs. recurve at full draw for 45 sec. and you feel none of that is going to have any bearing on his ability to start learning with a heavier bow than the average guy who has never shot a bow before???

His ability to hold the recurve at full draw for 45 sec. is partially due to his abilty to draw, hold and shoot his 70lbs. compound 300 -400 times/week.

As a fitness trainer...I can guareentee it.

Even if you still believe his history shooting a 70lbs. compound bow has very little bearing...you at least seem to now feel it has at least some bearing.

Ray


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## I'm Not Ted (Feb 12, 2009)

BLACK WOLF said:


> Do some of you guys actually read?
> 
> It really cracks me up that some of you have the mentality that everybody must start out with as light or lighter of a bow than you started with type mentality...where everyone must start with a 30lbs. or less bow.
> 
> ...


Calm down ray.. You could also try (its a little more money) getting a bow fit to find out what you really like.


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

I'm Not Ted said:


> Calm down ray.. You could also try (its a little more money) getting a bow fit to find out what you really like.


Calm down? How did you know I was fumin? 

If I'm understanding you correctly...during this time in our country's financial crisis...I'm not sure that would be the best advice 

I think it would be better to guide him in the direction of picking the right bow in the first place for his needs so he doesn't have to spend more money latter on.

Ray


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## LBR (Jan 1, 2004)

> 65% let off means you subtract the 45# - 25# would be the holding weight.


I stand corrected--guess I should learn to double-check my math. 

Still, if he can hold 55# for 45 seconds "comfortably", he's WAY ahead of the general public. If he needs to start with 30#, then your average scout should have to start with a 5# bow. Shoot, most adults shouldn't attempt starting with more than 15# if that were the case--they'll shake like a leaf if they do.

Chad


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## junker (Jul 11, 2008)

BLACK WOLF said:


> I know this wasn't directed at me but you are absolutely right!
> 
> 
> 
> ...



i haven't read all the posts but i'm throwing my 2 cents in. my recurve bow came with 2 sets of limbs....45lb and 63 lb. i shot the 45lb limbs for maybe two weeks. oh, i should mention this was my first bow ever...got it a year and a half ago. i was green and wanted to shoot the 63lbs limbs when i should have just stuck with the others since i was new. I'm shooting great right now. I shot 4 deer this past season....my first season bowhunting. Now i did shoot 7 days a week sometimes 2-3 hours at a time. When i was shooting that much; i could hold my 63lb bow well over a minute; and i can still easily hold it for 45 seconds.


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## jrpotter (Jan 23, 2009)

*My Two Cents*

The bows that I hunt with and shoot 3-d, indoor, and field are [email protected] and [email protected]


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

junker said:


> i shot the 45lb limbs for maybe two weeks. oh, i should mention this was my first bow ever...got it a year and a half ago. i was green and wanted to shoot the 63lbs limbs when i should have just stuck with the others since i was new. I'm shooting great right now. I shot 4 deer this past season....my first season bowhunting. Now i did shoot 7 days a week sometimes 2-3 hours at a time. When i was shooting that much; i could hold my 63lb bow well over a minute; and i can still easily hold it for 45 seconds.


Even a 45lbs. bow would still be considered way to heavy for what a few poeple here would recommend for a complete novice to start with.

It really is an individual issue...there's a few people that like to suggest cookie cutter type suggestions without taking the individual person into consideration.

Let's face it...we are not all built the same and we all don't share the same strength or abilities.

By the way...congrads on the 4 deer....that's awesome!

Ray


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## junker (Jul 11, 2008)

BLACK WOLF said:


> Even a 45lbs. bow would still be considered way to heavy for what a few poeple here would recommend for a complete novice to start with.
> 
> It really is an individual issue...there's a few people that like to suggest cookie cutter type suggestions without taking the individual person into consideration.
> 
> ...


thanks. i've learned at lot from this board in a short time. i got in slump for the longest time...trying to mimic other shooters' forms.....trying to outshoot others at the few shoots i went to. But one day it clicked. i shoot in a way that is comfortable for me and make any necessary adjustments from there.

btw i'm not a big guy. i'm 6ft tall 165lbs. long and lean but when you shoot a 63lb bow 7 days a week, hours at a time, you develop strenght


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## tpoof (Dec 18, 2005)

> thanks. i've learned at lot from this board in a short time. i got in slump for the longest time...trying to mimic other shooters' forms.....trying to outshoot others at the few shoots i went to. But one day it clicked. i shoot in a way that is comfortable for me and make any necessary adjustments from there.


learned a good lesson and found your form! Right On! Thats what its all about!


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## wharvey (Jan 11, 2009)

I'm 6'3" at about 260 lbs., not that small. I have two traditional bows, Howatt Hunter 35 lbs and a Martin Hatfield, 55 lbs. With my 29+ draw length I pull a bit more.

Viper made a statement about the difference between shooting strength and holding strength. I experienced a good example of that shooting today.

I little trouble shooting the 55 lb bow and can do so several dozen times before getting to tired. Can also hold at full draw in proper form without shaking for a good 20 seconds and just hold for a bit longer.

Today I was shooting my 35 lb bow, really working on getting consistent form, going for the best groups I could. I never started shaking during the shots but by the end of 60 shots my bow arm was getting tired. It was getting much harder and took more concentration to maintain good form due to fatigue. While I am getting older, upper 50's, I'm not that old. Still don't have a foot in the grave I hope. 

I can't imagine someone not having a low to moderate poundage bow to practice with. At least not at my age. When I was young and stupid, as opposed to old and stupid, I thought different. I wonder if my shoulder problems might be a legacy of those younger days.


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

wharvey said:


> I'm 6'3" at about 260 lbs., not that small.


Size doesn't necessarily mean anything. I've known guys who are considered small statured that were alot stronger than guys who were considered big.

Strength is very individualistic. A guy who is 6'3" weights 260lbs. might be at 30% body fat and not very strong and a guy who is 5'8" and weights 190lbs. at 8% body fat and is very strong.

wharvey...I'm not trying to imply you're out of shape at all. You might be very fit. Just trying to make a point how strength and endurance doesn't necessarily coincide with overall height and weight.

Ray


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## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

junker said:


> thanks. i've learned at lot from this board in a short time. i got in slump for the longest time...trying to mimic other shooters' forms.....trying to outshoot others at the few shoots i went to. But one day it clicked. i shoot in a way that is comfortable for me and make any necessary adjustments from there.


Education is the key while not being closed minded.

Learning as much as you can from watching other great archers, watching how to DVDs and reading books like Viper's and many others can help guide a new archer in developing their form and style for their specific goals, personality and abilities.

Just don't get caught in the trap believeing you HAVE to shoot a certain way in regards to form to be any good.

The one thing you should really strive to do to be any good as an archer...is develop your form to be consistant. The more consistant you are...the better chances you will consistantly hit the target.

Develop consistantcy that is beneficial to your accuracy...and everything should fall into place.

Ray


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