# Food Plot in Wet Ground



## hookedonbow (Jul 24, 2010)

interested to see what responses you get, subscribed to the thread


----------



## Timmy Big Time (Aug 8, 2010)

Plant a crap load of willow around the plot, you will be amazed how much that will dry it up, plus the willow adds brouse.


----------



## MonsterManiac7 (Apr 7, 2011)

Ok got a few on the north end, but will definitely plan on that. Anyone know about seed?


----------



## PassYoungBucks (Jan 17, 2009)

I'd personally drill bean in the whole thing.


----------



## PassYoungBucks (Jan 17, 2009)

clover chicory alfalfa will NOT tolerate flooding, best to go with grain.


----------



## squirrelshooter (Jan 9, 2010)

I am interested in this as well, I have almost the same situation that I have been trying to figure out. However, willows are a no go, as it is a power line right of way and planting trees is not allowed.


----------



## Quicksliver (Nov 22, 2006)

Are you wanting an actual food plot or are you looking for grass/forb seed options and create a bedding area? It appears to be smooth brome now.


----------



## Elite fanboy (Dec 11, 2011)

I would look at this...

http://www.hancockseed.com/application-area-239/wildlife-food-plot-seed-297/joint-vetch-seed-304/


----------



## thegwh3 (Jun 14, 2011)

if you're looking for something quick growing and has the ability to get a quick stand I would find some sort of Tall Fescue blend. Fescue is very hardy and will begin to stand most of the time within 30 days. Because of the moist soil you have to worry about seed rot, brown spot, and maybe even damping off; especially if you're leaning toward a legume stand such as clover. After getting a nice fescue stand you then have the ability to plant other legumes or maybe drilled brassicas without the daunting possiblity of fungal diseases on your plot.


----------



## snoman4 (Jul 1, 2011)

some types of clover are tolerant of wet ground but not all types. I have not found any type of clover that likes drought condtions. I use soybeans in wet conditions which is most of the summer here in Florida. I drill them in after disking and adding fertilizer and disking in again.


----------



## thegwh3 (Jun 14, 2011)

I would definatley not recommend disking the ground if it were wet as disking completely kills soil structure. Soil structure means everything when it comes to wet soil conditions; it means how effective your soil nutrients translocate throughout the soil, how effective the soil drains after intense rains, the ability for the soil to hold organic matter within the topsoil, etc. Also, when you practice no-till on food plots you allow your ground to build its own organic matter over a period of a couple years which will also increase the soil nitrogen concentration. The more nitrogen in the soil, the more $$$ you save on fertilizer costs in the future. Disking also depletes current root systems.


----------



## MonsterManiac7 (Apr 7, 2011)

Ok so looks like no till. Should I burn it off? Also I am really interested in something that brings deer in. Right now the deer avoid that field so a browse wouldnt be that helpful. What works in wet and brings em in?


----------



## FlinginCarbon (Feb 18, 2010)

Posting so I can find later


----------



## MonsterManiac7 (Apr 7, 2011)

Really need some help here?!?!


----------



## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Turnips will tolerate damp soil.


----------



## apke95 (Jul 31, 2010)

redruff said:


> Turnips will tolerate damp soil.


^^^^this


----------



## MonsterManiac7 (Apr 7, 2011)

Turnips....sounds like that's what I will plant. Till or no?


----------



## thegwh3 (Jun 14, 2011)

A controlled burn will definatley help to provide some much needed Potash that will significantly promote root growth. This will improve your stand and promote rhizome growth and potential for turnip yield if that is the direction you're looking to go. Keep in mind that you will have to test pH levels and keep the pH level within a slightly acidic zone (around 6.0 or so). Also the burn will cause you to lose most of your nitrogen concentration because you're depleting the organic matter and mulch matter that is currently there. Its a give and take kinda thing... if you burn for potassium you'll need to lime and improve nitrogen levels. Another thing about the burn is if you currently have any invasive weeds in this stand such as Johnsongrass, Goosegrass, etc that has a rhizome based root system you will not kill this with the burn. I would suggest if you do the burn to follow up with Glyphosate or 2-4D on the new growth. If not these weeds will spread rapidly among everything else, withholding nutrients from your brassicas.

Next, till or no till??? I would NEVER perform any conventional tillage method as like I said before it completely destroys soil structure. When soil structure is depleted it opens the door for poor drainage (which is never good if the piece of property already holds large amounts of water), promotes advanced soil erosion (the more you work the land, the more soil erosion is accelerated), and promotes soil horizon particle translocation (which means the sand particles will move more and more toward the surface which causes root structure problems as the roots no longer have a stable foundation).

If you don't have the expensive no till drill equipment to work with you will be forced to turn to more conventional methods. Please stay away from tillage as much as possible, YOUR SOIL HEALTH DEPENDS ON YOU!!!! 

If you need anything else feel free to PM me anytime and I'll give you my educated opinion as best I can


----------



## Stanley (Jan 18, 2005)

Crops will not grow in wet ground period. If it floods you're done. You also can't till the ground when it is wet. If you can get a dry period around the middle of august I would till it then and put in some turnips, and ground hog radishes.


----------



## 410gage (Dec 14, 2008)

If mine------ and I had access to equipment, I would till it in the summer after it dries up -------and broadcast Buck Forage Oats with a handful of turnips mixed in the oats. This is an annual, of course, and in your area should be planted about the first week of September. I put in one acre of BFO every year, and I have promoted it so much they should pay me, or at least give me a bag of seed! A picture is worth a thousand words, as the saying goes!


----------



## dingle dave (Dec 23, 2009)

What about sorghum? Some of these can reach 10ft tall. Cover and browse but I'm not sure if it can handle the wet soil conditions?


----------



## TauntoHawk (Aug 25, 2010)

Ive been wondering too about wet soil plots lately.. i was thinking as well that something that gets planted late aug/sept would be best because the soil will be at its driest for the key parts of growth. 

want a winter food source so was looking at brassics, turnips, radishes, oats, and rye


----------



## Quicksliver (Nov 22, 2006)

I agree on the no tilling, only going to create problems. Burning and spraying really depend on what it is right now. If it's a cool season grass (as it appears) spraying in the fall right before it freezes would accomplish a great deal and save you the energy of burning. And who knows what might already be in the seed bank. Plant some extras and you might have a good spot.


----------



## irishhacker (Sep 4, 2011)

410gage said:


> If mine------ and I had access to equipment, I would till it in the summer after it dries up -------and broadcast Buck Forage Oats with a handful of turnips mixed in the oats. This is an annual, of course, and in your area should be planted about the first week of September. I put in one acre of BFO every year, and I have promoted it so much they should pay me, or at least give me a bag of seed! A picture is worth a thousand words, as the saying goes!


Man that looks sweet! I need to come to your deer camp for a few days.


----------



## MonsterManiac7 (Apr 7, 2011)

Here's the issue...no till equipment is really expensive and I don't know anyone who owns any. Looking like burning and tilling.


----------



## 410gage (Dec 14, 2008)

MonsterManiac7 said:


> Here's the issue...no till equipment is really expensive and I don't know anyone who owns any. Looking like burning and tilling.


"No till" basically just means a real heavy grain drill, which your close neigbor to the west most likely uses. Most food plotting, except for corn, does not really require deep tillage. For soybeans, oats, wheat and many perennials, if you can work up the dirt about three inches deep, you should be ok. Unless it is serious clay - then all bets are off.


----------



## hookedonbow (Jul 24, 2010)

Where does one get Buck Forage Oats?


----------



## mattross257 (Jul 21, 2018)

If your ground is mostly flat, like an old sage field or pasture, we took an old section hard from a tractor and turned the tines slightly toward the machine pulling it (atv for us) and weigh it down with a few blocks and take off. It will RIP up the ground that's there and open it enough to accept the oath and the grass seeds. It works very well. Oh, now or Bush hog it first get it as short as possible. We used this technique on roughly 4 acres of fields planting winter grass, buck forage oats, oats and rye grass. We did not see a huge difference in doing it this way versus tilling or discing the ground and planting.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk


----------



## mattross257 (Jul 21, 2018)

mattross257 said:


> If your ground is mostly flat, like an old sage field or pasture, we took an old section hard from a tractor and turned the tines slightly toward the machine pulling it (atv for us) and weigh it down with a few blocks and take off. It will RIP up the ground that's there and open it enough to accept the oath and the grass seeds. It works very well. Oh, now or Bush hog it first get it as short as possible. We used this technique on roughly 4 acres of fields planting winter grass, buck forage oats, oats and rye grass. We did not see a huge difference in doing it this way versus tilling or discing the ground and planting.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk


I'm sorry for the typos that's terrible. A section hare or harrow. And oats not oath.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk


----------



## ondavirg (May 15, 2004)

Winter rye will tolerate more moisture than typical food plot plants. I’d seed it heavy with winter rye, 100# an acre, and top it with plenty of nitrogen when it came up. And this is winter rye NOT rye grass.


----------



## moonshiner (Feb 28, 2010)

my property is a giant bowl and stays almost perpetually damp unless we are in a sever drought so I use Aslike Clover about 2-1 with ladino.. the Aslike needs a companion and have been looking at this as well

https://meritseed.com/ga-378-wetland-alfalfa-perennial/


----------

