# Hoyt Recurves: Why should I choose one of their 'hunting' bows over a 21" Excel?



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

brock - 

You can't get ILF limbs that compare with Hoyt's hunting limbs, but you can get considerably better for a lot less. I've been recommending the Excel riser and either TT glass/wood or carbon wood, KAP T-Rex, Samick Privilege, or SF Axiom limbs to "new" shooters, for some time now. That for both prospective hunters and target shooters. The only real difference between those who know they are planning on hunting and those that want to do serious target work is the length of the riser. 

Again IMHO, going with an ILF riser like the Excel instread of one of Hoyt's hunting bows, you will not be getting a very similar bow, you'll be getting a better bow. The only down side is if you have to have a camo finish, then you'll have to have it dipped. 

OK, don't get me wrong, Hoyt does make a good limb, but the Koreans, (Samick and WW) are still making better (smoother/faster) one and unless you go to the very high end stuff, they'll be cheaper.

If your draw length is anywhere 28", 38# is still pushing it, providing you really want to learn how to shoot. 

Viper1 out.


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## jcs-bowhunter (Jul 7, 2007)

I own both (21" Excel & Dorado) and can break down a few differences for you.

1) ILF limb attachment on Excel, lots of limb options. Dorado can use ILF limbs with an aftermarket bushing kit.
2) No triangluar holes in Excel riser for Hoyt 2 piece quivers (not an issue to me as I hunt with a Kwickee Combo)
3) Excel shelf does not have not radius (not an issue to me since I shoot evaluated rests)
4) Ergo and Stock Dorado grips are not interchangeable. Other options are available for each.
5) Excel w/Samick Black Max limbs is much cheaper then a Dorado setup with no difference in performance
6) Dorado Riser and Limbs are available in camo. You can also get Maple limbs
7) Dorado comes with a roll up case

I'll probably sell my Dorado before the hunting season and stay only with the Excel. I like it that much.


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

I'm definitely surprised by these responses. I knew I was onto something, but I didn't expect you guys to say the Excel would be a -better- bow. That's phenomenal news.

I don't know my draw length. Do I need to go to a pro-shop to have this measured, or can I measure this myself? Will my draw length have any effect on what length of limbs I buy? Or since I will be wanting to hunt with this bow, should I just go for short limbs (do you recommend a length)...?

Also, I am not yet familiar with most of the accessories added to recurve bows. Above it was mentioned the use of 'evaluated rests' as opposed to shooting off the shelf. I know what the shelf is, but I am not familiar with these rests.

What else will I need to get started if I snag an Excel riser at 21"? Will my proshop likely be able to order a set of the limbs mentioned above, or will I have to order those separately online?

I am sure I will need a quiver, maybe an arm guard, and a glove, and of course arrows.

I am SO excited to get started. And I am even more excited to find out that a good hunting bow is going to be cheaper than I originally thought.

Thanks much for your help everyone!


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

Hoyt may have shot themselves in the foot with the Excel blackout offer. It's obvious that they have been getting a substantial premium for the hunting bows - GMII and Dorado - that is, their similar comparison target risers are much more cheaper with far more options. Probably, the "bright and shiny" colors were of little interest to hunters being a pain to recolor, or, they just looked like target bow risers. Now, with a seemingly ILF craze in the hunting bows, they offer a target riser in an appealing color, similar to what can be had with their hunting bows, and that makes the comparison closer except again, for price.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

brock -

On the Excel or any riser with a plunger bushing and cut well past center, the NAP CenterShot Flipper rest is about as bomb-proof a hunting rest as you;re going to get. 

Match the Excel riser with WW Winex or Samick BF Extremes and while not cheap, you'll have a world class rig, by any standards. If you're not ready to spend that kind of cash on limbs, the TT Carbon/wood limbs are super at a little over $200, the wood/glass limbs are even cheaper and a real value, along with the others I mentioned above. A good D97 14 strand string and you're good to go. 

Don't forget a stringer, tab and arm guard. For tabs, the SAM is good for hunting weight rigs, abd the Cavalier Elite the "the" tab for target. The Saunders multi-layer tab is a nice compromise. 

Viper1 out.


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## big cypress (Jul 31, 2006)

annndddd, he means elevated rest i think and not ''evaluated''


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

Viper1 said:


> brock -
> 
> On the Excel or any riser with a plunger bushing and cut well past center, the NAP CenterShot Flipper rest is about as bomb-proof a hunting rest as you;re going to get.
> 
> ...


Wow, thank you so much for all the info!

I just got home from my local pro-shop, and I placed the order for my 21" Hoyt Excel riser with black-out finish. The cost for the riser at my shop was $145. Lancaster's online store wants $179 for them, so I felt like it was definitely worth it to go ahead and order.

I am not sure how long the wait is going to be, but I am dying to get it. In the mean time I will be researching and purchasing my limbs and the other accessories I will need.

The shop owner was VERY nice to me, but he didn't seem to understand what I was trying to do by buying an Excel with the plans of using it to hunt eventually. He brought out the buffalo and was recommending it to me. And when I told him I had been researching for a while online, and that i really wanted the Excel riser he was okay with it, but was telling me that online research might just destroy me.

In the end he was happy to place the order for me when he saw that I wasn't interested in a new $650 buffalo (actually I was interested in it, but don't want to spend that much since I'm just starting out).

He did tell me a cool story about how he was the one who gave hoyt the idea to radius the shelf on the Buffalos and other hunting recurves. He said that he's been a hoyt dealer for over 20 years and that he and his wife shoot for them. He said that at some convention when the buffalo was just being introduced, a rep or exec showed him the then brand new buffalo and asked him what he thought. He said he told them it was alright for a bow they were wanting to convert from a target bow and pawn off as a hunting bow, but that if they really wanted to appeal to traditional shooters and hunters they would radius the shelf (at the time it was flat supposedly). The hoyt guy seemed to like the idea, and like 3 months later a buffalo showed up at his shop as a gift from hoyt to thank him for the idea.

I don't know if this story was true or not. I just met this man today, so i have no idea if he likes to tell tall ones, but it was interesting to listen to nonetheless.

Anyway, my riser is on its way, and I can't wait to figure out what limbs to get. I am going to look at the ones mentioned here first off.

I also think I am going to start out with something lighter like maybe 35# or something, and then once I get better upgrade to a hunting set at 45# or so. Does this sound like a good idea?


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

Is lancaster's the best place to order limbs? Or are there other places I can shop around to find some?

Thanks


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## jcs-bowhunter (Jul 7, 2007)

If your just starting out then a 30-35# set of either inexpensice Trad Tech or T Rex limbs would be an excellent starting point. There are several mail order businesses that stock this stuff along with Lancasters. You can pickup quality hunting weight limbs later this summer once you understand your needs.

With the all money you saved over not buying the high end bow I would try to find some coaching. At bare minimum pick up "Shooting the Stickbow" (book) and "Master's of the Barebow 3" (DVD).


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

The book and DVD are great advice, thank you! And I have multiple pro-shops close by that offer cheap lessons. Like 10-15 for an hour or so. So, I'm sure an hour of coaching would teach me some good basics.


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## sawtoothscream (Apr 19, 2008)

hmmm i might have to get me a excel. price for the riser and black max limbs isnt to bad


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

Another thing I am curious about that I am having a tough time finding an answer on is limb length (short, medium, or large)... Obviously for hunting I want as short of a bow as is practical. The riser I ordered is 21", and I was measured for a 28" draw length. Would short limbs allow me to draw to a full 28" on my 21" riser? Also, as far as I can tell, short limbs are measured to equal 58" on a 17" riser, so that means short limbs would measure out to 62" on my 21" riser.

I'm bad at math, but I'm even worse at archery (since I am brand new), so what length limbs should I be aiming for with a 28" draw length?

Sorry if this post was more verbose than necessary.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

brock -

One of the advantages of an ilf rig, is that you can tailor the stack point of shorter bows to your draw length. So, in theory, a 21" riser + short limbs (62" overall) would be very do-able. Still. think about it the other way around, get the LONGEST bow you think your situation can handle. A longer rig will always be a little smoother and more forgiving (steady in the hand). Cool thing is you have options, and you can change the length when you get new limbs. I'd start with medium or even longs to train on and then go shorter and heavier for hunting.

Viper1 out.


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

Wow, thanks so much for taking the time to respond! I really value the advice!


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## jcs-bowhunter (Jul 7, 2007)

big cypress said:


> annndddd, he means elevated rest i think and not ''evaluated''


Yep...I meant elevated...AT needs a spelling and grammer checker for us that are "educationally challenged" 

:darkbeer:


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## Misguided-One (Nov 30, 2009)

Would the draw weight change significantly if you use limbs designed for a 17" riser on a 21" or 23" riser?


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

Hmm... I would like to know how this works too if someone would like to chime in.

btw: just ordered "Shooting the Stickbow" from Amazon. Definitely looking forward to cracking it open!


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

mis and brock -

Funny I thought about that after my last reply. 

On average, draw weight INCREASES 1# for every inch you SHORTEN a riser and vice versa. 

For example, a pair of 40# limbs rated on a 25" riser would be 44# on a 21" riser and 48# on a 17" riser. A pair of 40# limbs rated on a 17" riser would be 36# on a 21" riser or 32# on a 25" riser. 

Just to add to the confusion, most ILF riser give you a max variance of about 10% total draw weight by playing with the limb bolts (our 40# bow would have a variance of 4#). Where the limbs are weighed, unfortunately varies by manufacturer. Hoyt limbs, for example, are weighed in mid-throw, while most of the Koreans are weighed at their lowest setting (bolts all the way out). Fun stuff, no?

Viper1 out.


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## Misguided-One (Nov 30, 2009)

yep, now I'm confused a little, but I think I can figure it out. Thanks Viper


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

I understand that. Thanks so much!


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## big cypress (Jul 31, 2006)

i don't think that was in ''the book'' , thank you, it's good to know .


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## ozzypop (Sep 23, 2010)

Hoyt Excel the best value you could get. I have the cheaper wood/glass limbs and it is the smoothest bow I have. I was injured and had to drop to 24# no problem. Bought a pair of 89$ Samick limbs and loved them. I had a hard time wanting to go back to heavier weight. In fact still can't shoot groups like I did with the light limbs.


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

So, I've pretty much made up my mind that I am going to order a set of T-Rex limbs as training limbs. And I am going to take Viper's advice and order them in longs. The lightest T-Rex limbs I can order from Lancaster's, it seems, are 32#. These, however, are rated for a 23" riser, and mine is 21". So, I will actually have a 34# bow when the screws are set to their lightest setting, I am assuming. Also, the T-Rex longs on a 23" riser make a 68" bow, so on my 21" riser I should have a 66" bow.

I need to order a string for it, and after all this figuring, I am guessing I will need to order a 62" string (66" bow length minus 4" equals 62"). Is this correct?


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

The T-Rex limbs will probably be all I will shoot for a long time while I train myself. However, I am also planning on ordering a 50# set of TradTech Black Max Carbon/Wood limbs for hunting. Since these limbs are rated for a 17" riser, on my 21" riser they should give me approximately a 46# bow that could be increased to about 50# with screws tightened all the way. This seems ideal. But feel free to critique my plans if anyone has an opinion.

That damn riser couldn't get here fast enough, and I have a feeling it's going to be like 3-4 weeks. =(


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

brock -

Ah, not sure what LAS has in stock, but the T-Rex limbs go down into the teens in draw weight. Also look at the samick and SF limbs I mentioned. While 34# "might" be do-able, I've worked with enough "muscular" types to know it ain't the best idea, I'd try to keep it in the 28- 30# range for the get go. Hold off on the BM limbs until you have on handle on how the lighter ones feel. 

Viper1 out.


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

Nice, thanks Viper. I'll just give em a call Monday and see what they have in stock.


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## Swamp Phantom (Jan 18, 2011)

Great thread for us Beginners.


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## FORESTGUMP (May 14, 2008)

Viper1 said:


> brock -
> 
> Ah, not sure what LAS has in stock, but the T-Rex limbs go down into the teens in draw weight. Also look at the samick and SF limbs I mentioned. While 34# "might" be do-able, I've worked with enough "muscular" types to know it ain't the best idea, I'd try to keep it in the 28- 30# range for the get go. Hold off on the BM limbs until you have on handle on how the lighter ones feel.
> 
> Viper1 out.



OK thats it! I was planning to stay out of this one since it seemed to be going in an ok direction. But there is such a thing as happy medium and we seem to getting outside of it here.

brockgl; while I do respect Vipers knowledge,it does tend to lean towards the target shooting side a bit. Now that is not all bad for a total beginner in a learning situation. Yes,a very light bow can be good for learning form and other beginner stuff. After that,maybe a couple of weeks,you will have a useless set of limbs. It might help to know more about you. Are you a skinny 15yr old kid or a big ole cornfed country boy. Big difference. Your profile revealed nothing,so it's all guesswork to be honest.

Viper; As I have already said,I respect your knowledge and experience at working with beginners. But, happy medium might be better in many cases. Particularly this one. The OP seems to have been pretty much spot on with his first post. I don't know anything at all about the person except that he said "I am quite strong" or something to that effect. Leads me to believe that he does not need a childs bow even for learning. Unless of course he wants to buy three sets of limbs becuse it would be a big jump from 28-30 lbs to a reasonable hunting weight. He is a 28in draw length and 38lbs does not seem unreasonable at that. Ok,maybe 35 , no lower than that. Otherwise a good strong rubber band could be recommended.:fencing:


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

FORESTGUMP said:


> Are you a skinny 15yr old kid or a big ole cornfed country boy. Big difference.


I'm 27, 5'11", 220lb, and athletic. I have very little experience with archery. My dad has a 60lb compound that I have no problems with at all. However, I have heard compounds compare very little to recurves, so I'm just relying on the knowledge here to guide me. I am definitely not too proud to start with a light bow. My goal is definitely hunting, but I take pride in all I do, especially target sports (been target shooting rifles and handguns since I was 12), so I want to do it right.

The advice on all sides has been phenomenal lately, so thank you all!

I will be placing my order for a set of training limbs tomorrow. And after this post, I am still a bit up in the air about what weight to order.

Not sure if a description of myself has helped. I'm definitely a big country boy raised on Indiana corn and beef and venison (always take with a gun, but hopefully a bow soon). 'Scrawny' isn't a word that has ever been used to describe me; in fact, it would probably cause my wife to laugh to hear 'scrawny' and my name used in the same sentence. =)

But again, I am no where close to being too proud to use a light bow to train if that is what is appropriate. I respect the opinions of the experienced in this matter seeing as how I am utterly ignorant as of yet.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

Two things:

-In most states 36# will be too light to hunt with, so there really isn't an added cost to getting a lighter set.
-There is no such thing as under-bowing yourself.

Its taken me literally years to see the light on this matter.
I will put it in pistol shooting language:
Just like shooting a pistol, getting good with a trad bow is all about volume.
Shooting with light limbs is like using 38spl instead of 357mag +P ammo. Almost all of the training value with way less punishment.
Because you can shoot more before fatigue starts messing with your form, you will shoot more and your ability to combat that fatigue will increase.

I don't generally shoot more than 20 shots at a time with my hunting bows, that wouldn't even be warmed-up with my target bow. Shooting the target bow has made those 20 shots with the hunting bow a lot better though.

-Grant


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## Greysides (Jun 10, 2009)

I started with 28# limbs (30" DL) and have progressed to 36# in two steps- 34# and 36# on the fingers, now 40#. If you buy good cheap limbs you can keep them for practice or sell them on. Form is foremost, strength can be worked on afterwards but you need to shoot enough at any one time to gain your form. Holding weight with a compound is a lot less than for a recurve.


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

Well, I just ordered SF Axiom limbs from Lancaster's in 28# Longs. This should give me a 30# bow for training. I was told by Lancaster's that these SF Axiom's replaced the T-Rex limbs, so that's why I went this route.

I also ordered the following:

*Arm Guard* sku#5380040
*Shooting Glove* sku#1930001
*Bow Stringer* sku#1970284
*Flipper Rest* sku#3320068 (I am going to try to cover the shelf with a radius for off-the-shelf shooting, but I bought the rest to try as well)
*14-strand Black 62" String* sku#3310007

And I ordered a dozen 29" Easton Jazz MTO arrows in 1716, with 3" white feather fletchings.

Can anyone else think of something else I may need to order except maybe a quiver?

Thanks so much everyone for your help!!


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## need-a-bow (Aug 10, 2010)

Maybe a cheap cusion plunger if you go with the flipper


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

brock -

Sounds good, but I really wouldn't have gone with the glove.
Might want to consider some extra nocks and a quiver helps. I like the ones with a small pocket to carry "stuff".

Need - 

He's got a NAP Centershot Flipper rest, (good choice) and can't use a plunger with it. Other wise, good call.

Viper1 out.


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

Viper1 said:


> brock -
> 
> Sounds good, but I really wouldn't have gone with the glove.


When I go to my pro-shop to pick up my riser, I'll grab a tab while I'm there.

For some reason I have really bad memories using a tab back when I was a teenager trying archery out on my dad's bow, so a glove looked really appetizing since it doesn't have the tendency to fall out of place.

However, I'll grab a tab as well and give it another shot now that I'm older and serious about archery.


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## need-a-bow (Aug 10, 2010)

Viper1 said:


> brock -
> 
> Need -
> 
> ...


I only saw that it said flipper rest so i assumed it was a magnetic or spring rest. The center rest is probably easier to tune, I guess the plungers are more for target guys


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## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

You should buy one of Hoyt's new Buffalo Hunting Recurves because they have spent a fortune on the advertising. I believe Hoyt would prefer selling you a $600 bow that uses a proprietary attachment system and requires you to purchase only Hoyt's limbs at $250 per pair...................Then of course if you do your homework, you will already know that a Hoyt Excel riser (-150$ at most pro shops) and some inexpensive ILF limbs (-80$ for KAP's) and have a very nice setup for 1/3 the price of a Buffalo..........but if you would like to pay for Fred's hunting trips instead of your own, then by all means get the Buffalo. Makes me wonder WWFD?


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

centershot said:


> You should buy one of Hoyt's new Buffalo Hunting Recurves because they have spent a fortune on the advertising. I believe Hoyt would prefer selling you a $600 bow that uses a proprietary attachment system and requires you to purchase only Hoyt's limbs at $250 per pair...................Then of course if you do your homework, you will already know that a Hoyt Excel riser (-150$ at most pro shops) and some inexpensive ILF limbs (-80$ for KAP's) and have a very nice setup for 1/3 the price of a Buffalo..........but if you would like to pay for Fred's hunting trips instead of your own, then by all means get the Buffalo. Makes me wonder WWFD?


Aye, seems like a no-brainer, especially since Hoyt offers the Excel in blackout now... Luckily I did my research here instead of just going into the pro-shop and asking for a hunting recurve. My pro-shop is super nice, but they still tried to persuade me out of buying an excel and instead buying a buffalo.

Excel Riser + SF Axiom limbs total cost = $235. Buffalo average cost = $699...

The math made perfect sense to me. In fact, because of the Excel's price, my wife didn't make me sell one of my guns to fund the purchase. =) I had originally been leaning toward a Dorado at around $500, and per the wife, one of the guns was gonna have to go in order to fund it.

I do plan on buying some Black Max hunting limbs in a higher weight soon. So Excel Riser + Black Max limbs total price will be $365, but that's an awesome bow and still $135 cheaper than a Dorado. _And _I will have ILF fittings for any other limbs I want.

I really couldn't be happier right now! =P


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## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

Make sure to spend $20 of the money you saved on Viper's book. Best money I ever spent on Traditional Archery.


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## lazy ike (Oct 19, 2009)

And if you ever decide to go down the crazy performance road, you can pony up for a set of Border Hex 5 H limbs. Of course , you'll have to sell at least one gun to do that. Hope nobody has told the Mrs. that ILF is a serious condition who's only treatment is the procurement of more limbs. Also heavier limbs will require new arrows. If Hoyt were smart, they'd partner up with Samick and make black limbs with true ILF fittings. You can get by with one riser, but nobody can live with just one set of limbs.....He he he


Ike


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## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

But...................when the wife asks if you bought a new bow, you can honestly say no honey. _Just limbs_!


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

centershot said:


> Make sure to spend $20 of the money you saved on Viper's book. Best money I ever spent on Traditional Archery.


Already done. I actually bought the book before I completed my bow. =)


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

centershot said:


> but...................when the wife asks if you bought a new bow, you can honestly say no honey. _just limbs_!


exactly!!!!!!!


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## need-a-bow (Aug 10, 2010)

brockgl said:


> Already done. I actually bought the book before I completed my bow. =)


 Great book, Just dont try to read it in 2 days(I barely slept)


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## jcs-bowhunter (Jul 7, 2007)

Brock

Welcome to stickbow shooting. You'll enjoy the Excel. Here is my 3D bow with 40# Black Max limbs, 12" B stinger and a Cavalier rest.

:darkbeer:


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## brockgl (Mar 3, 2011)

jcs-bowhunter said:


> Brock
> 
> Welcome to stickbow shooting. You'll enjoy the Excel. Here is my 3D bow with 40# Black Max limbs, 12" B stinger and a Cavalier rest.
> 
> :darkbeer:


Very nice!


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## Harperman (Sep 3, 2006)

I shot a 23" Excel last night, a buddy just got it...Medium PSE Centra/Conquest Carbon limbs, shot Doinker chubby stabilizer...I was seriously impressed, the riser light, but balances well, has nice shot reaction, and seems pretty quiet for an ILF limb mount riser....The grip is outstanding, and this riser, in the 21" length, and ILF Short limbs on it at 64" would so easily blow a Gamemaster away for a "Do It All" type bow it's shameful....Hoyt hit a home run with this Excel riser....Now if they could just get the price of Their ILF limbs more in line with what folks are actually getting for Their money, things would be looking awesome for American made ILF Hunting/3-D recurves......Jim


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## dghboy315 (Mar 7, 2011)

I just wanted to say that this is a great thread. Thank you for all the information. I am also new and trying to get into target shooting and possibly bowhunting. Before finding this forum and reading this thread, I had thought I would have to pay $800+ for a compound bow. I think my wife and I will be getting the above recommended equipment, after we learn a little more. Yesterday, I went to the library and got all their books on archery. I'm currently looking for someone in my area that gives lessons.


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## FORESTGUMP (May 14, 2008)

dghboy315 said:


> I just wanted to say that this is a great thread. Thank you for all the information. I am also new and trying to get into target shooting and possibly bowhunting. Before finding this forum and reading this thread, I had thought I would have to pay $800+ for a compound bow. I think my wife and I will be getting the above recommended equipment, after we learn a little more. Yesterday, I went to the library and got all their books on archery. I'm currently looking for someone in my area that gives lessons.


Welcome to the tradworld. It can be much more challenging and fun to shoot than the latest and so called greatest compound gadgetry.

Plenty of lessons to be had right here if you like to read and research, or just feel free to ask and there are plenty of target archers on this forum to answer any question you can think of.

Also there is a book written by one of the regulars here that must be exellent for beginners. I've never seen it but others seem to think that it's a must have. 

Be sure not to buy anything before you get the proper info that you need. Probably should start a new thread and you will be on your way.


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## ozzyshane (Sep 19, 2004)

Great thread guys what about the tradtech Glass/wood limbs(up to 60lb) they would look great on the blackout excel for a few more $$$ 

Viper 1 what weight do you think i would need in the above limbs on the 21inch excel riser to get me about 55lb should make about a 64inch bow 
Thanks Shane


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Shane -

IIRC, the TT BM limbs are rated on a 17" riser, so 60# limbs should be about 56# on a 21" riser. Since Samick limbs are rated at with the bolts full out, I'd probably go for 58# limbs, so you have room to play. (TT will confirm the weight on a 21" riser, if you ask them to check for you.) Medium limbs on a 21" riser will give you a 64" bow. 

Viper1 out.


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## ozzyshane (Sep 19, 2004)

Viper thanks for the input i will get in contact with TT and see what i come up with THnaks Shane


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## lazy ike (Oct 19, 2009)

I am now the owner of a 21" excel in blackout. My 35lb TT blackmax wood/glass limbs pull 35 lbs on an easton digital scale at my 27"( clicker set to exactly 27') at the Hoyt factory limb bolt settings. John at Lancaster had told me that the limb angle on the excel was just enough different to make the limbs scale the same poundage as they are marked. Mine would actually scale about 2 lbs heavier than marked at 28".
This bow is fantastic at the price. actually it would be fantastic at more than twice the price!!!


Ike


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