# 2010 Quest Primal tuning questions?



## hddar (Feb 5, 2011)

I guess what I am asking is how do I start to limit cam lean and what considerations do I need to keep in mind while adjusting whatever I need to adjust. I am kind of on my own here and the nearest pro shop are very anti anything that isn't Hoyt or Mathews.


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## 3D Grandpa (Aug 15, 2010)

Where did you buy the bow originally? If there is significant cam lean already, may need to go back .......


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## hddar (Feb 5, 2011)

It did have the same cam lean when it came out of the box. I don't live near the shop where I bought it so taking it back is more than a few hundred miles away. The pro shop I am near has a really nice facility that you can pay for yearly with all sorts of member benefits, like helping with these issues. They told me that it would be no problem to help when I was paying for the membership but now every time I go in there I basically get the cold shoulder when it comes to tuning issues and questions about equipment (unless it has to do with buying more from them). I was under the impression it could be fixed through tuning the cables but I haven't tried and I may be wrong. It is a binary style of cam system with twin cams and no yoke so I have heard that it is fairly common I just want to do what I can if anything to fix it. Also I don't really no when syncing the cams if I should follow Dave Nowlin's post regarding bowtech's binary cam tuning instructions because the quest "sync" cams don't have cable stops they have draw stops that come to rest against the limb.


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## 454casull (Jan 7, 2005)

hddar...PM me w/your phone # I will call you....


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## yellowsnow (Mar 29, 2011)

Also Quest has a great warranty!


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## Atchison (Apr 15, 2009)

454casull said:


> hddar...PM me w/your phone # I will call you....


Just work with Dan, he will help you out, its pretty easy to get the Primal in tune! 

Also, go to Elite's website, they have a pdf that explains what happens when you twist the cables/strings in one way or another (elite and quest share cam design)
http://www.elitearchery.com/technology/pdf/cam_adjustment_basics.pdf


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## hddar (Feb 5, 2011)

454casull I sent you a pm. I work a really weird schedule but I would be available sometime Friday or Saturday if you have time. Thank you in advance!


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## 454casull (Jan 7, 2005)

I didn't get it yet but no problem, we'll get you handled. You cannot adjust for limb twist on the Primal and it does not have a cable stop like Dave Nowlins sticky. But, the rest of it applies to this cam system.


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## 454casull (Jan 7, 2005)

hddar...PM still not here so Here is the Reader's Digest version:
You've shot it enough to have the cable/string fully settled. You will need a draw board and a bow press to continue further. Binary systems need to have the cams sync'd at full draw, this is very difficult to do by hand, hence the need for the DB. Almost even Primal I have dealt with has had the top draw stop hitting before the lower. I twist the cables (bow press) until the draw stops are hitting together then use the "hash" marks on the opposite side of the cam for reference points, all should be identical. If not then loosen the stops, get those marks in sync then reposition and re-tighten the stops. This should get your sync inline. My bow responds well to an additional 2-3 twists added to each cable but are not "necessary". Now you are will need to check and record the ATA, Brace and DL. Remember the factory specs are with the limb bolts bottomed (only for checking never shoot with the bolts bottomed). The only other item is that these bows like a stiffer arrow so "good" but on the stiff side is better than "good" but on the weak side....


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## hddar (Feb 5, 2011)

I have both of my draw stops moved all the way back. Should they set up in the same spot on both cams, correct? When you say the limbs "bottomed out" do you mean both moved to the heaviest draw setting, or do you mean both of them moved to the lightest draw setting? After I make adjustments to the cables Should my ATA, Brace, stay the same as the factory specs? I sent you another pm. Thanks for the help.


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## 454casull (Jan 7, 2005)

List the bow's factory specs. DL, DW etc. When measuring bow specs it is done with the limb bolts all the way in, heaviest setting. Now how did you set the draw stops? Just move them? Moving the stops will give you more valley but also increase the draw length. Did you need to do that? None of this has to do with the lean. It is characteristic of the binary system but different mfgs control it in various ways. I'll call you this weekend....


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## 1tiger (Jan 24, 2005)

if it helps i had to set my center shot at 1 1/16 to get the best results with bare shaft and walk back tunnung. just the way this bow needed to be.i should say however that i realy like this bow.i also got 6 inch 80 yard groups with it set that far out.i tried both swapping limbs top and bottom and replaced with 2011 i -glide neither made any difference on centershot being that far out.


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