# Which cables to twist



## huezzn (Aug 19, 2013)

Hey everyone,

I know this may sound a bit stupid, but after watching 2 tutorials where they talked about it, and even after reading the notsandbolts guide, I don't 100 % understand it (maybe because my english isn't that good).
If I have to twist the cables in order to synchronize my motive 6, on which side of the cables do I have to twist? Do I have to twist both of the york-loops (york = buss cable) at the top or do I have to twist the loop of the buss cable at the bottom, where it is hinged at the cam?
As I have to untwist the control cable the same amount, do I have to untwist the loop at top where it is hinged at the cam, or do I have to twist at the bottom?
My problem is that with my english, I don't understand which end of each cable I have to twist/untwist.

My second question is about the draw-weight. I know that the two limb-bolts have to be equal. But I don't get: Do the cycles have to be the same, or the gap between the riser and the limb?
Because when I draw 2 cycles at both bolts (from max.), I think that the gap at bottom is a bit bigger then top.

I hope you get what I mean, it is hard to say it in english for me. German sites don't answer these questions, I have searched my ass up 

I appreciate help so much, guys. Otherwhise, the notsandbolts is the biggest help, I ever found in my life for 1 topic.

Kevin


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

I like simple. First, cam lean is corrected through use of the yokes. Me, twist which ever side to correct cam lean with bow at rest, undrawn. You may have to twist one side and untwist the other side. Understand this?

I'm not familiar with the cams of your bow, but all are timed best at full draw. I like to work with the bottom cam first. It should have some indicator. Get this correct first and proceed.
Next by example; If the top cam is ahead of the bottom cam, twist the cable that feeds into the draw groove of the top cam. If the top cam is behind the bottom cam untwist the cable that feeds into draw groove of the top cam.


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## huezzn (Aug 19, 2013)

Thank you very much, this really helps me alot in my understanding and absolutely answers my question.

Can you also help with the draw-weight question?

Thanks

Kevin


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Ask away. I'll try to help.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

huezzn said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I know this may sound a bit stupid, but after watching 2 tutorials where they talked about it, and even after reading the notsandbolts guide, I don't 100 % understand it (maybe because my english isn't that good).
> If I have to twist the cables in order to synchronize my motive 6, on which side of the cables do I have to twist? Do I have to twist both of the york-loops (york = buss cable) at the top or do I have to twist the loop of the buss cable at the bottom, where it is hinged at the cam?
> ...


Hello Kevin:

SIX steps to perfection.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2128129

STEP by STEP recipe.

the draw weight is controlled by the BUSS cable.

If you max the limb bolts (turn the limb bolts until the limb bolts will turn no more)
then,
measure the draw weight.

If the draw weight is LOWER than what the maximum draw weight says on the limb sticker
(60 lb maximum rating for draw weight)
and your scale reads only 58 lbs....

then,
ADD twists to the bottom of the buss cable
until you LIKE the scale reading
for maximum draw weight.


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## huezzn (Aug 19, 2013)

Hey Notsandbolts,

thanks for the step-by-step, this is so interesting!

To summarize: If someone is saying: add twists to the buss cable, he means, add the twists to the bottom end of the cable, where it is hinged to the cam (and NOT twist both york-cables).

And if someone is saying: add twists to the control cable, he means: add twists to the top end of the control cable!

Is that true? then I got it


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## huezzn (Aug 19, 2013)

Can someone confirm this?


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## TheTracker (Sep 11, 2009)

nuts&bolts said:


> Hello Kevin:
> 
> SIX steps to perfection.
> 
> ...


Alan you only add twists to the bottom cable? My Helim ATA is 32 1/4 and specs call for 32 and my draw weight is 61lbs and my limbs are rated at 65lbs! Should I twist only the bottom cable to get my bow in spec?


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## TheTracker (Sep 11, 2009)

TheTracker said:


> Alan you only add twists to the bottom cable? My Helim ATA is 32 1/4 and specs call for 32 and my draw weight is 61lbs and my limbs are rated at 65lbs! Should I twist only the bottom cable to get my bow in spec?


 I meant to say 30 ATA not 32, I just added 3 full twists to my bottom cable and my Draw weight went to 64.42lbs with my ATA at 30 1/8.


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## huezzn (Aug 19, 2013)

ttt


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

TheTracker said:


> I meant to say 30 ATA not 32, I just added 3 full twists to my bottom cable and my Draw weight went to 64.42lbs with my ATA at 30 1/8.


Two cable bows; add equal amounts of twist to each.


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

TheTracker said:


> Alan you only add twists to the bottom cable? My Helim ATA is 32 1/4 and specs call for 32 and my draw weight is 61lbs and my limbs are rated at 65lbs! Should I twist only the bottom cable to get my bow in spec?


adding to bottom of a buss allows you to first use 1/2 twists, and also you dont have to re-adjust top cam lean cus youve swapped the legs on the top of buss. its just the easiest to adjust a buss from bottom, and most pratical actually


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## huezzn (Aug 19, 2013)

ah ok, that's what I wanted to hear, thank you alot, dwagoner! 

And how about the control cable? Does it here matter at all?


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

you have the buss cable with YOLK the split in the cable. the other cable is the control cable. that controls the cam sync to the bottom cam. if both cams hit stops at same time then if you make a change to the buss cable then yes you have to make change to the control cable also. 2cam hybrid so 2 cables. hafta adjust both together yes

if you adjust buss only then top cam will not be hitting the stop the same as bottom cam.

do your tuning with both limb bolts maxed out, tighten them both down and after your done tuning you can back them out to desired poundage equally


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## huezzn (Aug 19, 2013)

Thanks a lot.

I got it now and synched my motive! Top cam is hitting just really a bit (really only a bit!) before the bottom. I twisted the control cable 1/2 twist, but then the bottom cam was hitting much more before the top. So I stay with this 0.04'' delay of the bottom cam!

Thanks for your help, dwagoner!

Kevin


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

and help from others too......

i know hybrids very well, i think their easy to tune myself. but when you do enough of them they all get easier and easier.

glad you got her all dialed in


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## huezzn (Aug 19, 2013)

of course thanks to everyone!

the nutsandbolts guide is awesome, and the whole AT itself!

Thanks everyone!


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## TMan51 (Jan 25, 2004)

huezzn said:


> Hey Notsandbolts,
> 
> thanks for the step-by-step, this is so interesting!
> 
> ...


Got a smile out of that one.

Yep it is interesting, and that's a fact. There are no stupid questions, as sometimes you get a surprise, usually when you *KNOW* what you are doing.

I started shooting in 1958, spots indoor/outdoor, 3D, and of course bowhunting. Still learn new stuff all the time, and occasionally wonder if I know anything. But it's always interesting.


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## TheTracker (Sep 11, 2009)

SonnyThomas said:


> Two cable bows; add equal amounts of twist to each.


What about solocam bows?


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## TheTracker (Sep 11, 2009)

dwagoner said:


> adding to bottom of a buss allows you to first use 1/2 twists, and also you dont have to re-adjust top cam lean cus youve swapped the legs on the top of buss. its just the easiest to adjust a buss from bottom, and most pratical actually


Thanks for the help brother!


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

TheTracker said:


> What about solocam bows?


Understand, the buss cable is the shortest and the bow string the longest, which doubles as the control cable. I believe the ratio is one twist of the buss cable equals 4 twists of the bow string.


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