# Wow...Draw boards work great!



## Nick1959 (Apr 30, 2003)

How bout some pics??????????


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## Aim4gold (Dec 19, 2006)

Been using one for years – I call it a tiller board, now-a-days the terminology seems to have changed.
I have a 2x4 on the back of my shop door. A bolt with a rubber hose on it for the handle end and a series of screws at 1/2 “ increments for the string to lock on to. Simple design, no winch or anything mechanical – a simple board with screws.


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## pinkfletch (Sep 16, 2002)

After setting the stops on a drawboard, has anyone tried to see if the creep test still worked? I mean is setting timing on the drawboard the same as creeptuning?


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## HNSB (Jul 1, 2004)

Mine consists of a 3/4" piece of steel dowel wrapped with some of that rubber grip stuff you can buy for a baseball bat inserted in the end of a 4x4. On the other end I have a small boat winch. I carved a recess in the 4x4 and inserted a yardstick.

Only thing you have to be careful with on these is not overdrawing the bow.


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## HNSB (Jul 1, 2004)

Here's a really quick render I threw together to give you an idea...

I have a scale attached to the winch cable which then hooks on to the bowstring. That way I can plot draw force curves as well.

The whole thing is mounted on a couple of bars that slide into my workbench. When I want to use it, I just slide it in and have a stable base to work on. When I don't use it, it stands in a corner and takes hardly any space at all.


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## soonerboy (Sep 6, 2004)

Just built one but I have a question. When drawn back on the board my bow sets crooked. Should I lock the bow down so that it stays square while being drawn on the board? Hope I made my question clear.


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## HNSB (Jul 1, 2004)

If your nock point is centered and you have level nock travel the bow should stay square. If like most of us, you're set slightly nock high, the riser will turn a very slight amount on the peg as the bow is drawn.

DO NOT LOCK THE RISER IN A FIXED POSITION! This could damage your bow, or result in injury.


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## soonerboy (Sep 6, 2004)

It seems to be about 4 inches out of square. I timed it this way and it shoots great. (Septor III) could the limbs be that different or how would you make the bow pull more level???


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## pyroarch57 (Jul 13, 2006)

pinkfletch said:


> After setting the stops on a drawboard, has anyone tried to see if the creep test still worked? I mean is setting timing on the drawboard the same as creeptuning?


You`d be wasting your time if you cant check your vertical nock travel first.


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## SWATCOP (Oct 6, 2006)

Nick1959 said:


> How bout some pics??????????


I will try and get pics but this thing is ugly. I built it with things lying around my garage.


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## marforme (May 30, 2006)

Here are a couple pics of mine. I set my bow on the board then placed the holding pins to determine the best placement before drilling and mounting them.


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## SteveHolt (Dec 25, 2006)

HNSB said:


> Here's a really quick render I threw together to give you an idea...
> 
> I have a scale attached to the winch cable which then hooks on to the bowstring. That way I can plot draw force curves as well.
> 
> The whole thing is mounted on a couple of bars that slide into my workbench. When I want to use it, I just slide it in and have a stable base to work on. When I don't use it, it stands in a corner and takes hardly any space at all.


That is pretty much identical to mine. I also use a 100-lb fish scale to check draw curves. It sure makes it easy to check cam movement.

Nearly all my bows have some degree of cant when drawn back, even after bullet holes when paper-tuning. I figure that not all bows are meant to draw symetrical.


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## JLBSparks (Feb 1, 2006)

*draw boards*

Ok, how about a picture of a bow on this thing, and what is it supposed to tell you?


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## Bushy402 (Nov 6, 2005)

JLBSparks said:


> Ok, how about a picture of a bow on this thing, and what is it supposed to tell you?


Here ya go...:wink: 

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=378156


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## Spotshooter2 (Oct 23, 2003)

> Just built one but I have a question. When drawn back on the board my bow sets crooked. Should I lock the bow down so that it stays square while being drawn on the board? Hope I made my question clear.


 All bows will do this since your nock sets above the centerline of the bow.


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## pyroarch57 (Jul 13, 2006)

Spotshooter2 said:


> All bows will do this since your nock sets above the centerline of the bow


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## pyroarch57 (Jul 13, 2006)

Yes, you lock the bow down without putting undue stress on the riser. I use rubber grommets on my bolts (see my drawboard pics) Tighten just enough to stop the bow rotating.


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## Dodgedude (Jan 29, 2005)

HNSB said:


> Mine consists of a 3/4" piece of steel dowel wrapped with some of that rubber grip stuff you can buy for a baseball bat inserted in the end of a 4x4. On the other end I have a small boat winch. I carved a recess in the 4x4 and inserted a yardstick.
> 
> Only thing you have to be careful with on these is not overdrawing the bow.


How do you know when to stop? I understand that with a winch, a guy could easily over-power the draw.


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## intheXring22 (Jul 6, 2005)

I use a turnbuckle on mine. I can get it exactly where I want it that way. And yes they work great!

Btw I dont tie mine down. I used to until I figured out it was messing up my cam timing. As soon as I untied it, pefect timing.


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## Dave Nowlin (May 21, 2003)

I just bought a new bowpress from NMP and by the time I got home I had figured out how to use the timing fixture on this press to not only time a bow but also plot the draw force curve of the bow. With this one device you can press a bow, time it and plot it's draw force curve. To me that's simpler then having a bunch of different things cluttering up my shop. He only has to make a simple modification to the timing fixture to accomplish these things. I believe he will be selling them modified in this manner shortly.
Dave Nowlin


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## HNSB (Jul 1, 2004)

Dodgedude2003 said:


> How do you know when to stop? I understand that with a winch, a guy could easily over-power the draw.


When your drawstops contact the cable (or whatever they contact to stop on a given bow) that's when it's time to stop cranking.


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