# Bare Shaft Impacting Low



## cloquet (Jan 12, 2004)

Your nock hght is not correct. If bareshafts hit low your nock hght is to high.


----------



## CatFan (Feb 15, 2004)

I just told you my arrow is level and running through the berger hole. If i lower my nock or raise my rest, the arrow will be running nock low.


----------



## kilerhamilton (Jul 19, 2010)

just my opinion. there are a zillion factors in tuning a bow. as im sure you know. arrow spine, length weight bow speed, foc, nock point, cams timing, sinking, lean, torque etc. 
when you shoot target or 3d you don't creep or shoot a bare arrow. get things close and walk back tune to 40-50 yds. if you shoot spots get them pounding at 20yds, 3d? walk back tune and shoot it through paper at 10 yds with your arrow set up.


----------



## tripleb2431 (Aug 25, 2009)

what bow is it? it can be a couple things, your form or cam timing. Well with archery it can be 100 things lol but prob one of those 2 post a pic of form or just have someone verify but when at full draw where is your release elbow? It should be above your wrist. but other thing which i actually just fixed on my motive is tuning your cam timing and no im not talking about draw stops hitting at same time im talking about adjusting cams to your shooting style. Its the exact same concept as what you just did with yoke tuning to adjust left and right only this will adjust up and down. So your bare shafts hitting low means leaving bow nock high so try twisting control cable on top cam or untwisting buss cable on bottom cam keep track of twist so you can keep track of results. If ya got drop away tied in prob want to twist top so dont mess with drop away. But put one full twist in and check results if hitting high now take half twist back out


----------



## gofor (Feb 4, 2013)

My bow was doing the same. Today I lowered the rest about 3/32" and got bare and fletched hitting together out to 25 yds. Bare shafts still a little low at 30 yds. With this set-up, fletched shafts at 20 yds were hitting 3" lower than fletched shafts at 10 yds. (actually an inch worse than nock at level). this told me I have downward nock travel, not a rest problem. raised rest up 1/16" and and backed off top limb bolt 1/4 turn, and have level fletched shafts at 10 and 20 yds, and bare shafts hitting with fletched out to 20 yds. Got interrupted before I could back out further, so still working it. B

I have a slaved cam bow, so no yokes. Have not tried changing cam sync yet, nor have I swapped limbs, so have a couple more things to try if my broadheads are way out when I try them. 

Bottom line, try lowering rest (or raising nock point). If that doesn't get it like you want, try backing off the top limb, or tightening the bottom. before giving up on rest adjustment, shoot bare/fletched at 5,10, 15, 20, and 25 yds. if some hit high and others low, the bare shafts are porpoising, which is definitely a rest adjustment problem. 

JMTCW

Go


----------



## bbjavelina (Jan 30, 2005)

Try putting a turn on the bottom limb bolt, or taking a turn out of the tip limb.


----------



## memosteve (Nov 24, 2012)

Tiller tuning may help...


----------



## bbjavelina (Jan 30, 2005)

memosteve said:


> Tiller tuning may help...


Exactly. That's why I suggested changing the limb bolts. With parallel and past limbs tiller can be a little ambiguous, especially if the cams are not mirror images.


----------



## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

CatFan said:


> I just told you my arrow is level and running through the berger hole. If i lower my nock or raise my rest, the arrow will be running nock low.


Doesn't mean it's in the perfect position. He didn't say move it a ton. You can move it and still be pretty much dead center still. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Reverend (Nov 2, 2004)

My Matrix is doing the same thing as OP.
Don't want to keep taking twists out of the control cable, as that will make bottom cam more than 1/8 in. slower than top cam. That seems a bit much. Also, my rest / nocking point is set about 1/16 nock low, which I don't like either. Still no matter what I tried, bareshafts hit about 3 inches low at 20 yards. Even after adjusting my grip, more heel, less heel, etc… no change. 

I think my next option would be to try: 
A. Different point sizes to see how spine affects tune. 
B. Tiller tuning, which I've never done...


----------



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Just a note; Generally accepted is the center of the arrow shaft centered to the berger hole. Fine, but there is also do not exceed the top of the berger hole with the center of the shaft. So depending on the diameter of the arrow you have some play. Like my arrow is .355" in diameter. So I could move my arrow up .175" and still be within the normal rules.


----------



## Reverend (Nov 2, 2004)

Sonny, 
When you say move it up, do you mean to purposely set it up "nock low" (below 90 degrees) to get it to tune? 
Also, I wonder if rest timing will cause this? I'm shooting Hamskea in limbdriven mode...


----------



## Ehunter42 (Mar 3, 2010)

I think what Sonny is saying is, your arrow doesn't have to be dead center in the Berger holes. It can be a little higher, or lower than dead center as long as it runs through them and is level (90 degrees to string). I have had a couple bows that wanted to tune higher in the Berger holes, and a few that tuned lower in them. Most tune dead center, but not all.


----------



## wvstumpjumper (Apr 4, 2012)

Here's a couple tips to try. Adjust the nock up a touch ( I know it sounds cray but try it ) or if it is a drop away rest lower it just a bit. I had some of the same trouble and it turned out to be my rest. I had to lower it just a touch. I must admit I took it to my bow guy lol. Hope this helps. Sometimes crazy stuff happens and sometimes the fix just doesn't make sense. 2 + 2 always equals 4 except In the bow tuning world lol


----------



## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

wouldnt worry about tiller tuning with parallel limb bows like more upright bows like PCE target bow


----------



## Reverend (Nov 2, 2004)

Ok, I learned that all "bow squares" are not created equal. 
After talking with Shane (ontarget7), he recommended I use bubble levels to measure nocking point rather than a bow square. 
So I strapped a torpedo level to my string and taped a spare bubble to the arrow. Well, whatta you know. It seems my square was reading my arrow as level, when in fact it was more like 3/32 above square…
So I adjusted the nocking point and rest to be a true 90 degrees, using the bubbles. I think this will bring my bareshafts up closer to my fleteched shafts. 
I'll report back after the weekend.


----------



## Black Stallion (Sep 27, 2007)

memosteve said:


> Tiller tuning may help...


Agreed. This may be an option.


----------



## Reverend (Nov 2, 2004)

dwagoner said:


> wouldnt worry about tiller tuning with parallel limb bows like more upright bows like PCE target bow


This is what I heard also...


----------



## jwshooter11 (Aug 18, 2006)

Every hoyt cam and a half I ever had tuned perfectly 1/16" below center.


----------

