# stabilizer formula



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Yep. Remember, it's a "get you in the ball park formula." If two back bars divided the weight by 2.

I've used it and it's close, but remember this, you put a lot of weight on and it's takes time to get use the weight. In fact, I went back to nothing on the stab and back bars. Amazingly, it'd worked pretty decent. I've got 1 ounce on the front of my 31" front stab and 1 ounce each on the back bars. Taking 10 ounces off sure made for a better feel and hold.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

buckwild13 said:


> I forgot the stabilizer formula does anyone know what it is? I want to say its the total length of the front bar times the amount of weight in oz. divided by the rear bar length will give you the amount of weight that would be needed on the rear bar. So a 31 inch front bar with 4 oz. of weight would be 31 x 4 = 124 124/15=8.26 oz. of weight needed on rear bar. If this is incorrect please let me know thanks.


Simple.

31-inch bar in front.
4 ounces of weight.

Let's say this makes for 124-inch-ounces....of front heaviness.

So,
you have a side rod that is 15 inches long.

Let's go WAY WAY WAY too heavy...cuz,
then things will be REALLY OBVIOUS.

Try 10 ounces.
TRY 20 ounces.
TRY 300 ounces.

You get the idea.

With 300 ounces (just PRETEND)
the bow will be CRAZY back heavy.

ALL shots will miss SKY HIGH,
your fliers will be all at 12-o'clock HIGH.

THIS is NOT complicated.

So,
300 ounces is TOO HEAVY, cuz you have ALL fliers missing SKY HIGH.

FINE.

What next?

CUT the side rod weight in half.

Try 150 ounces. NO JOY? STILL missing all shots at 12-o'clock HIGH?

Fine. CUT the side rod weight in half again.
Try 75 ounces. NO JOY? STILL missing all shots at 12-o'clock HIGH?

Fine. CUT the side rod weight in half again.
Try 30 ounces. NO JOY? STILL missing all shots at 12-o'clock HIGH?

Fine. CUT the side rod weight in half again.
Try 15 ounces. NO JOY? STILL missing all shots at 12-o'clock HIGH?

*Fine. CUT the side rod weight in half again.
Try 8 ounces. NO JOY? 
WAIT a minute here.

CHANGE in pattern. BOW is now TOO MUCH FRONT HEAVY.
Shots are now missing at 6-o'clock LOW.*

FINE,
go the OTHER way.

TRY 10 ounces...on the side rod.
TRY 12 ounces...on the side rod.
TRY 14 ounces...on the side rod.
TRY 16 ounces...on the side rod.
TRY 18 ounces...on the side rod.
TRY 20 ounces...on the side rod.
TRY 22 ounces...on the side rod.


SEE how this goes?

EXPERIMENT
TEST
VERIFY

BUT
BUT
BUT

I cannot afford that much weight. 300 OUNCES would cost a fortune (it was just an example).



FENDER WASHERS = CHEAP side rod weight experiments.



HOW many WASHERS?

Dunno.

1 BOX = 100 pcs
2 BOXES = 200 pieces

GRAB one or two BOXES of fender washers and a LONG 1/4-inch bolt, and a nut, and a locking washer.
PUT the ENTIRE TWO BOXES, and I guarantee you that your bow will be STUPID heavy, way obvious, that the bow is TOO MUCH back heavy.

HOW much does TWO boxes of FENDER WASHERS weigh?
No idea. JUST go WAY heavy, too much BACK END heavy.

Then,
take off HALF the fender washers to only about 1 box.

Then,
take off HALF again, the fender washers, to about 1/2 box.

THEN,
ADD or remove 5 fender washers at a time,
until you get the SIDE ROD WEIGHT just PERFECT?

HOW will you KNOW that the SIDE ROD WEIGHT is JUST PERFECT?

LOOk at your 20 yard groups.

LIKE THIS.



BUT
BUT
BUT

that's a LOT of shooting.

Yup.

NO shortcuts.


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## jameswm3 (Oct 7, 2007)

There is no formula...add and take off weight as needed until you obtain the hold you desire. All shooters, bows and stabilization systems differ.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

jameswm3 said:


> There is no formula...add and take off weight as needed until you obtain the hold you desire. All shooters, bows and stabilization systems differ.


This guy has more credentials than you.

By George Ryals 
The formula for finding the rear rod weight is Length x weight, or length of your long rod multiplied by the weight on its tip. You will then divide that number by the length of your rear rod. For example I have a 33” B-Stinger XL Premiere on my Hoyt Contender, and I have a 12 inch side rod. I have 5 oz on the end of my long rod, so 33” x 5oz = 165”oz. I will divide* 165 by my side rod length (12”) and I arrive at 13.5oz. I just round up to 14oz because the B-Stinger weights come in one ounce increments. You may be thinking, “WOW, 14oz is a lot of weight.” If that weight is too much for you to hold up, you can use longer rods and reduce the weight. If I wanted the same leverage against torque but with lighter weight I can use the same formula. Currently I have 165”ounces. If I change my 33” stabilizer to a 40”, I can reduce the weight by an ounce and still have the same leverage.* If I switch to a 15” side rod I can reduce the weight by 3 oz. A good rule of thumb to remember is “twice the distance, half the weight”*


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## jameswm3 (Oct 7, 2007)

SonnyThomas said:


> This guy has more credentials than you.
> 
> By George Ryals
> The formula for finding the rear rod weight is Length x weight, or length of your long rod multiplied by the weight on its tip. You will then divide that number by the length of your rear rod. For example I have a 33” B-Stinger XL Premiere on my Hoyt Contender, and I have a 12 inch side rod. I have 5 oz on the end of my long rod, so 33” x 5oz = 165”oz. I will divide* 165 by my side rod length (12”) and I arrive at 13.5oz. I just round up to 14oz because the B-Stinger weights come in one ounce increments. You may be thinking, “WOW, 14oz is a lot of weight.” If that weight is too much for you to hold up, you can use longer rods and reduce the weight. If I wanted the same leverage against torque but with lighter weight I can use the same formula. Currently I have 165”ounces. If I change my 33” stabilizer to a 40”, I can reduce the weight by an ounce and still have the same leverage.* If I switch to a 15” side rod I can reduce the weight by 3 oz. A good rule of thumb to remember is “twice the distance, half the weight”*


Wow more creds than me. Your right he does George is a great instructor. And competitor. With that being said. I'm simply stating the facts every archer is differ and so is there setup and style. 
1st u know nothing about me, 2 nd he did not post this: Atten -Sonny Thomas "the back yard champion" for your eyes only. If I want to reply with my opinion, I will, u shouldn't go insulting people u don't know.. 
On that note Buckwild13 here is a quote from aptitune that Jesse Broadwater help write....And Hey.."back yard champ" this guy might have some credit ... Don't know just saying, I can cut and paste to, but that doesn't give me the right to insult someone's creditabilty, especially when I don't know who they are.
Stabilization

Determining Mass Weight - Every archer has a limit for how heavy his bow can be. You may already have some idea about the amount of weight you can handle. If this is your first time, you will want to start on the lighter side to ensure you don't fatigue too quickly or cause yourself injury.

The longer your stabilizer bars are, the heavier the weights on them will act.
Example - If 4 oz on the end of a 30" bar is perfect for you, then 4 oz on the end of a 36" bar would be too much, even though the mass weight is exactly the same.
You'll need to find the back-to-front weight ratio that works for you. A good starting point for target archery is a ratio of 3:1. (Three weights on the side rod to one weight on the front rod.)
Bow Geometries and Their Effect on Stabilization - Beyond parallel limbed bows need more weight on the side rod, while straighter riser, non-parallel limbed bows need more on the front rod. This is due to the change in the center of gravity at full draw.

Shot Execution Styles and Their Effects on Stabilization - Back-tension style shooters generally like more rear weight, while command shooters like more front weight. There are exceptions to every rule, so be sure to tune until you find what works best for you.

Bow Hand Effects on Stabilization - In virtually every case, the bow hand is below the center of the riser.

A shooter who uses a low wrist or hard heel requires more weight on the front rod to offset the forces being exerted on the bow.
A shooter using a high wrist needs more weight on the side rod to account for less hand contact and a higher contact point, giving the front stabilizer more leverage.
Side Rod Mounting Point and Effect on Stabilization - Over the past few years, archers have been mounting the bracket for back bars lower and lower. There are several reasons for this, and some companies have actually taken note and accommodated by placing drilled and tapped holes lower down, or placing a bushing in the back to prevent wear.

The lower mounting acts like a "plumb bob," giving additional stability to the bow, resisting left/right motion.
The lower attachment also creates a more effective fulcrum for the back bar. (Fulcrum - where the board goes over the support on a teeter-totter is the fulcrum. If you slide the board one way, it gives the other side more leverage.)
Effect of Bar Angle On Tune - Changing the angle of the front or back bar affects how the weights on the end will perform. Similar to the effect of shooting up- or down-hill, the angle the bar is placed at changes the effective length. This is a very effective way to micro- tune.

If you are shooting a 25 deg uphill shot, you will deduct 10% of the distance for your sight setting. (60 yd - 10% = 54 yd.) The same math applies to the stabilizers. If you are using a 15" back bar at 25 deg down, the bar will perform as though it is 13.5" long. (15" - 10% = 13.5".)



Setting V-Bar In/Out - Setting the back bar in/out is a critical step in the process, to ensure you are not having to manually correct the bubble during the shot. This is important: while you might be able to force the bubble to the middle at first, once you start to aim and execute the shot, the bubble will tend to go back to where it naturally wants to be. You probably won't notice, causing a less-than-perfect shot.

Load and arrow and address the target.
Close your eyes and come to full draw.
Once you're settled in, open your eyes and take note of where the bubble sits.
Make adjustments as needed.
Repeat the last two steps until you can draw with eyes closed and the bubble stays in the middle.
Single Side Rod or V-Bars? - If the side rod is too close to the string to safely shoot the bow after setting it for the bubble alignment, the archer will be a candidate for V-bars. Due to how most modern bows load (with cable rods, cables and cam load, etc.), most archers only need to use a single side rod, but in some cases two rods are required to safely shoot the bow.

Back Bar Angle - The benefit of lowering the back bar is further explained with the following example. Having the front and back weights on the same plane (level with each other) will amplify left-to-right wiggle at full draw because they have no offsetting forces. Setting the back weight 6" or more below the line of the front stabilizer will help reduce this possible movement.

Dipping Low - Dipping low while aiming can be caused by several factors.

Make sure you are keeping a consistent bow hand. If you are heeling the bow on one shot and high wrist the next, your aiming pattern will be inconsistent.
The required stabilization adjustment for dipping low is to add weight to the back bar or take weight off the front bar.
If you want to maintain the same mass weight you already have, you can accomplish this by using the same amount of weights while shortening the front bar or lengthening the back bar.
Loose Aim or "Going Out The Top"

The required stabilization adjustment for a loose aim or "going out the top" is to take weight off the back or add weight to the front.
If you want to maintain the same mass weight you already have, you can accomplish this by using the same amount of weights while lengthening the front bar or shortening the rear bar.
Drifting Left - This kind of movement requires a slight micro-tune of the back bar's distance from the bow.

Move back bar slightly right.
Drifting Right - This kind of movement requires a slight micro-tune of the back bar's distance from the bow.

Move back bar slightly left.


Raising or Lowering Mass Weight AFTER Hold Accomplished - Once the desired holding pattern is achieved, the archer can still manipulate the mass weight; however the ratio of front to back weights must remain the same. This is done as follows:
If the archer has 5 weights on the front bar and 20 weights on the back bar, that is a 4:1 ratio. Therefore, an archer desiring a lower weight would need to take 1 off the front and 4 off the back for the same ratio but less mass weight.


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