# Cavalier Free Flyte arrow rest users



## arrowshooters

I had mine set to pull in. Figured it got out of the way of the fletch easier.


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## jcs-bowhunter

arrowshooters said:


> I had mine set to pull in. Figured it got out of the way of the fletch easier.


+1 for my Hoyt Excel


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## tgross144

I have mine set to push away from the riser. Has worked for years that way.

Tim


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## NeilM

I'm another one with the arm set to retract towards the riser.


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## catkinson

Was looking in to these who still makes them?


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## arrowshooters

Arizona Archery bought them a few years back. See:

http://arizonaarchery.com/category/x_gN0EY52lkPT/ARROW_RESTS_FINGERS.html


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## strikefirst

I have mine push out for hunting...in for 3d and target.

I have the micro adjust.


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## OBE

Thanks to all, for the feedback. I have been shooting with the rest set to push away from riser, for a couple of years. Probably, mostly due to the ease of dropping an arrow on it.

Now that I have been shooting alot, I have been getting more and more frustated with the rest. I am constantly having to readjust the arm back into position. I am thinking that the force of the vanes, are causing the arm wire to rotate under the set screw. I am going to flip the magnet over, to pull the arm into the riser. I think this is going to make a big difference. 

I do like the idea of returning it back to old configuration, when hunting time comes.

Thanks again, for all the input.


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## NeilM

Don't forget that the closer the magnet is the the arm, the stronger the action is (in either direction). But if you put it in too deep, it obstructs the arm, acting as a false stop.


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## JMLOWE

Hunting and target both push away from the riser. Great rest IMO, all I have shot for awhile now.

Anyone tried the model with Micro Adjust? I saw them in a catalog the other day for the first time.


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## arrowshooters

JMLOWE said:


> Anyone tried the model with Micro Adjust? I saw them in a catalog the other day for the first time.


Works OK if you leave the blade on, but if you are using a plunger you don't need it.


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## NeilM

JMLOWE said:


> Anyone tried the model with Micro Adjust? I saw them in a catalog the other day for the first time.


I tried one a few years ago, but after a few hundred shots the brass adjuster knob broke/fell off, which I put down to the vibrations from the bow being shot.


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## OBE

I made the change and the first thing I noticed, is that the shot is a lot quieter. Could I bother you all one more time, to review my installation of the rest and the arm position? Thanks again.


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## Harperman

Looks about right....I try to set my flipper arm a bit lower in the back, so that the arm is angled slightly upward toward the front...Seems to clear the vanes a bit better..Maybe this is just the way the arrow shoots from my bow, though......Hope this helps ya out...I also shot the same bow that You have all spring/summer.....Great hunting/3-D bow for Fingers...Take care.............Jim


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## JMLOWE

Looks good to me as well and I agree will Harperman about the arm being slightly upward to the front. I usually have to put a "custom bend" in mine to get everthing lined up just right as well.


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## JMLOWE

NeilM said:


> I tried one a few years ago, but after a few hundred shots the brass adjuster knob broke/fell off, which I put down to the vibrations from the bow being shot.


Thanks for sharing, I will stick with what I have.


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## OBE

> Looks about right....I try to set my flipper arm a bit lower in the back, so that the arm is angled slightly upward toward the front...Seems to clear the vanes a bit better..Maybe this is just the way the arrow shoots from my bow, though......Hope this helps ya out...I also shot the same bow that You have all spring/summer.....Great hunting/3-D bow for Fingers...Take care.............Jim





> Looks good to me as well and I agree will Harperman about the arm being slightly upward to the front. I usually have to put a "custom bend" in mine to get everthing lined up just right as well.




You both read my mind on my next question (Do you tilt or bend the arm to achieve center of plunger alignment). I have done both of these in the past, due to the fact that is the only way I can raise the height of my arrow (unless the rest has an elevation adjustment that I have been blind to....I have been known to do stupid things). I will try both positions again using the new configuration and see if I notice any significant differences. Thanks.


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## JMLOWE

There is no vertical adjustment that I am aware of on the model I am using but I believe according to your pic you have the upgraded version of what I have. I usually just hold the wire with a pair of needle nose at the back and bend the wire upward at the front so it kind of creates a cradle with the center of the shaft contacting the plunger or blade.

There is probably a better way but this has always worked for me.


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## Harperman

OBE.....I usually just cock the rest to get the desired angle...This way, if I change to a different arrow diam. later, I don't have to re-bend the wire arm...They seem to only take so much bending and re-bending, then get kinda soft...Take care.......Jim


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## OBE

Harperman said:


> OBE.....I usually just cock the rest to get the desired angle...This way, if I change to a different arrow diam. later, I don't have to re-bend the wire arm...They seem to only take so much bending and re-bending, then get kinda soft...Take care.......Jim


Thank you for bringing this up. I do bounce back and forth between the Lightspeed's and the 2315's. I used to bend the arm on my first rest and during a shoot, it turned into a limp noodle for a couple of shots and then broke off (my timing for equipment failure is unbelievable). I upgraded to the Elite, to take advantage of the thicker wire but I am sure it has its limitations as well. Point well taken.


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## fuelracerpat

I have shot all three of the Free flytes... The basic, the micro adjust and then the Elite. I never could get the Elite to shoot as well as the regular rests.
I used to think they were about the best finger rest around...until I tried the Spigarelli Zero Tolerance. It shoots every bit as well as the Free Flytes. It is as robust as the Elite, and wears wwaaayyy better than either of the basic Free Flyte or the Micro-adjust.
I was going thru two of the regular free flytes a year. The hole that the wire went thru would wear to the point of sloppiness and accuracy went out the window.
The precision of the Spig is quite a bit better than the Cavalier and the cost is about the same as the micro-adjust. Once the wire is set it will stay there.


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## Harperman

fuelracerpat said:


> I have shot all three of the Free flytes... The basic, the micro adjust and then the Elite. I never could get the Elite to shoot as well as the regular rests.
> I used to think they were about the best finger rest around...until I tried the Spigarelli Zero Tolerance. It shoots every bit as well as the Free Flytes. It is as robust as the Elite, and wears wwaaayyy better than either of the basic Free Flyte or the Micro-adjust.
> I was going thru two of the regular free flytes a year. The hole that the wire went thru would wear to the point of sloppiness and accuracy went out the window.
> The precision of the Spig is quite a bit better than the Cavalier and the cost is about the same as the micro-adjust. Once the wire is set it will stay there.


.....Yep.....all of what he said...I have a Spigarelli rest, it is beefy, very well made, and stays put where Ya set it....Jim


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## JMLOWE

Harperman said:


> OBE.....I usually just cock the rest to get the desired angle...This way, if I change to a different arrow diam. later, I don't have to re-bend the wire arm...They seem to only take so much bending and re-bending, then get kinda soft...Take care.......Jim


I have never had a problem with a wire arm breaking but you have me worried now!


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## fuelracerpat

I have had them break...in mid tournament!
Granted...When you stringwalk, it is hard on rests, and, I shoot a lot...and I mean 3,000-4,000 arrows a month.
At a short distance crawl(the furtherest down the string) as in indoor, it is particularly hard on the wire. The arrow is crashing off the rest in a vertical motion, relatively speaking a great deal of downward pressure on the rest that is not there in a nock contacting anchor(as in split finger or point on anchor with three fingers under.


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## JMLOWE

fuelracerpat said:


> I have had them break...in mid tournament!
> Granted...When you stringwalk, it is hard on rests, and, I shoot a lot...and I mean 3,000-4,000 arrows a month.
> At a short distance crawl(the furtherest down the string) as in indoor, it is particularly hard on the wire. The arrow is crashing off the rest in a vertical motion, relatively speaking a great deal of downward pressure on the rest that is not there in a nock contacting anchor(as in split finger or point on anchor with three fingers under.


I bet that is hard on the wire, I have never shot 3 under or string walked and is probably why I have never had any issues. I have been looking at the Spigarelli rest and have decided to give them a try the next time I set one up. Is Lancasters about the cheapest?

Saw your name in the results of the Outdoor Nationals Fuelracer, congrats!


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## fuelracerpat

Yeah...Lancasters is about it. They're having their moving sale this weekend and everything is 10% off.
Nat's was fun...and I shot poorly for the most part, just not quite as bad as the other two guys in the class!
I did shoot a rather exceptional animal round ...for me, just two points off the Nat'l record in the division.


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## wchamp06

I have been using one of them for years and I set to be open to receive the arrow. Cannot tell the difference whether open or closed. Gerald


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## OBE

After 2 months of shooting (with the magnet set to pull the arm in), I am pleased to announce that I have NOT had to adjust the rest at all. The new arrow loading process has become so automatic, that I don't think I will change the setup for hunting. I am also noticing less fletching wear. Thanks again to everyone for the feedback.


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