# Zwickey questions



## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1918628...if you do not mind, could some of you guys answer some questions on Zwickeys I posted in the broad head discussion forum? THanks.


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## bowhuntrmaniac (Jan 22, 2012)

Used the Zwickey Eskilite screw in (actual weight 145) and 1916 arrow out of my 43# recurve this fall to harvest a 10 pt. (score 101 P&Y) at 14 yards quartering away. Got lower Right lung and left front lung and arrow dropped out about 10 yards away .buck went about 75 yards and fell . First recurve kill . Will probably use same broadhead and Gold tip traditionals 15-35 next year.


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## keb (Jul 17, 2007)

I used the 125 glue on, shot all the way thru a 300 pound plus whitetail, with a 42lb bow. I dont think you can go wrong, fairly easy to sharpen and the proce is right.


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## rock74 (Jan 8, 2012)

Quote Originally Posted by Alpha Burnt View Post
Anyone using these, http://www.3riversarchery.com/Glue-I..._baseitem.html, to cut weight? Do you epoxy your broad head onto the adaptor and spin, adjust til true?

This broadhead adapter works well its a stronger connection than having a screw in thats glued to the head and then an insert glued into the arrow. For glue dont use epoxy use ferrule cement or another type of hot melt. Two blades usually penetrate better and thats all i use from the old Bear razor heads, Zwickey and now Magnus beng that im looking for a lighter head. Hit em right and one blade will kill.


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

Alpha Burnt said:


> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1918628...if you do not mind, could some of you guys answer some questions on Zwickeys I posted in the broad head discussion forum? THanks.


I have and have used both the eskimo and the Delta, which I prefer if using them heads. Zwickeys rust, so you have care for you broadhead if you leave in a quiver... that's one (my snuffers do too, so its not the arrowhead, its the metal... :grin, two... you have to make sure they go on straight, so fashion yourself a shaft alighnment or spin tester to assure yourself the point remains stationary.... you can spin the arrow on a flat metal plate or glass too.... :grin:

Hot melt glue held firmly to get the air bubbles out and yer good to go.... These heads, the Delta anyway, can plane so I'd also suggest an aggressive helical fletch with a 5" feather... and I like shields for the psychology of it all... but that too doesn't probably amount to a hill of beans.... and if digested... well... 

Good luck with this venture... :grin: Aloha... :beer:


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## jusoldave (Apr 28, 2012)

I shot the Zwickey No Mercys for awhile, glued on the threaded adapters. Thought they flew great out of my 70# Bear Attack. Only issue I had with 'em is I bent them so often I finally had to give up on ever getting them straight again.


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## Nokhead (Jun 10, 2012)

I wouldn't consider using anything _but_ a good single blade head.

Someone mentioned on another thread the idea of stripping off the paint, with a Zwickey, and bluing them...very much want to do that, must really look nice....but haven't got around to it yet.


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

Thanks guys, keep posting up...I am learning


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

Nokhead said:


> I wouldn't consider using anything _but_ a good single blade head.
> 
> Someone mentioned on another thread the idea of stripping off the paint, with a Zwickey, and bluing them...very much want to do that, must really look nice....but haven't got around to it yet.


Blue paint or gun-blue?


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## jusoldave (Apr 28, 2012)

rattus58 said:


> Blue paint or gun-blue?


The thread I recall about that, the guy was heat-bluing them. Purtiful!


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

jusoldave said:


> The thread I recall about that, the guy was heat-bluing them. Purtiful!


Interesting... so with the bluing, how does it handle the blood? I don't know if my broadheads (snuffers, bear etc) are blued or what... but I carry a little eyewash bottle of alchohol in my backback (both for wiping my bores of my muzzleloaders too... evaporative ... :grin to clean my broadheads... but with zwickeys I don't remember any "staining"... but its been over 10 or 12 years too... and you know, memory.. :grin:


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

Does not have to be a Zwickey. I am looking for good flight from tuned bow. I like the aspect of sharpening them myself .I am looking for any well made 2 or 4 blade glue on- steel broadhead with a healthy cut...Zwickey has the Delta with an 1 3/8" and that is why I assumed Zwickey...


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

Simmons Tigershark 135? experiences good or bad?


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

Alpha Burnt said:


> Does not have to be a Zwickey. I am looking for good flight from tuned bow. I like the aspect of sharpening them myself .I am looking for any well made 2 or 4 blade glue on- steel broadhead with a healthy cut...Zwickey has the Delta with an 1 3/8" and that is why I assumed Zwickey...


the delta I'm actually familiar with... and it has an awesome cutting diameter but it does plane... I've witnessed this firsthand, so in *my opinion, * you need to spin it agressively... I'm a three blade shooter now as these are easier to get to fly for me... but shot placement really is the answer to killing. Bear razorheads might have killed more deer than any other in the old days, and that was a two blade with bleeders sometimes....

Aloha.. :beer:


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

A Bowyer? Zephyr Sasquatch? Experiences good or bad?


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

Simmons Tree Shark?


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

Alpha Burnt said:


> Simmons Tree Shark?


Hehe.... are you going through a catalog somewheres.... :grin:


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

No...google and posting...dangerous combo!


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

I have used Magnus Stingers with great success in flight and on game, and that got me thinking about these "traditional" glue on type heads out of my compound. There is something that appeals to me about using a head that I sharpen that has been around a while and dedicating arrows to them (gluing the heads on the 20 gn carbon arrow adaptor/insert)...I am always trying something new. I have killed deer with at least 15 different broad heads over the years from Wide cut mechanicals to stuff like the Stinger. Just scratching an itch!


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

Alpha Burnt said:


> I have used Magnus Stingers with great success in flight and on game, and that got me thinking about these "traditional" glue on type heads out of my compound. There is something that appeals to me about using a head that I sharpen that has been around a while and dedicating arrows to them (gluing the heads on the 20 gn carbon arrow adaptor/insert)...I am always trying something new. I have killed deer with at least 15 different broad heads over the years from Wide cut mechanicals to stuff like the Stinger. Just scratching an itch!


 so what that tells me is that you have learned to hit what yer aiming at... and what does all that tell you... :grin:

I've used essentially 4 broadheads in my hunting career... starting with the bear razorhead... then someone suggested that I use the MA3 since some of my bear heads were losing out to bouts with lava... and those and the straight edge Bodkins I used for quite awhile till I bought some snuffers and gave some to a friend to try. A couple of weeks later we were hunting together and he came upon a nice little pig, under 100 pounds yes... but pigs are nothing to sneeze at and this one just about bled her out in just a few yards. Several weeks after that I went hunting on Molokai and shot my first deer with a bow... arrow went back to front, quater to quarter and broke a shoulder blade on the way out.... never looked back... :grin: I've used the zwickey Delta, MA2's, and a two blade by Delta.. ... Use what works is my suggestion... :grin:


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

Methinks yer just lookin fer excuses..... :grin:


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

No, not really. I can honestly say that without question EVERY single broad head that I have killed a deer with has performed enough to do the job, not necessarily up to my expectations though. Keep in mind, I have been bowhunting for 25+ years, worked in several pro shops in which I had access to and could purchase at a discount different heads and I am by no means a game hog BUT I will try to list them all: Wasp Cam Lok, Wasp Cam Lok 2, Wasp 75 SL, NAP Thunderhead 85, NAP Thunderhead 100, NAP Thunderhead 125, NAP Shockwave 100, Muzzy MX3, Muzzy 3bl 100, Rocket Steelhead 100, Rocket Hammerhead, Rocket Sidewinder, Slick Trick 100 Mag, Magnus Stinger 100 4bl, Rage 100 gn, Satellite Titan 100, Zwickey Eskimo 4 blade, Snuffer 3 bl and that is all I can remember. Each has had their own problems such as blade loss, ferrule breakage, broken blade, twisted and bent blades, blood trail not as expected and so on... I am just always looking for something new. I know from experience that Zwickey have been time consuming to sharpen and the Eskimo did not really cut like I thought it should with the "bleeder". Since then I have improved my sharpening skills and would like to revisit them, the improvement of carbon arrows, glue in adaptors have also fueled this idea. Not looking for excuses here just looking for a better way.


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

Alpha Burnt said:


> No, not really. I can honestly say that without question EVERY single broad head that I have killed a deer with has performed enough to do the job, not necessarily up to my expectations though. Keep in mind, I have been bowhunting for 25+ years, worked in several pro shops in which I had access to and could purchase at a discount different heads and I am by no means a game hog BUT I will try to list them all: Wasp Cam Lok, Wasp Cam Lok 2, Wasp 75 SL, NAP Thunderhead 85, NAP Thunderhead 100, NAP Thunderhead 125, NAP Shockwave 100, Muzzy MX3, Muzzy 3bl 100, Rocket Steelhead 100, Rocket Hammerhead, Rocket Sidewinder, Slick Trick 100 Mag, Magnus Stinger 100 4bl, Rage 100 gn, Satellite Titan 100, Zwickey Eskimo 4 blade, Snuffer 3 bl and that is all I can remember. Each has had their own problems such as blade loss, ferrule breakage, broken blade, twisted and bent blades, blood trail not as expected and so on... I am just always looking for something new. I know from experience that Zwickey have been time consuming to sharpen and the Eskimo did not really cut like I thought it should with the "bleeder". Since then I have improved my sharpening skills and would like to revisit them, the improvement of carbon arrows, glue in adaptors have also fueled this idea. Not looking for excuses here just looking for a better way.


yeah... sharpening..... :grin: Not by forte.... but they all died so they were "sharpenough".. :grin: I've a lansky set up now.. but that doesn't do snap for my snuffers.... sooooo I run em on a rough stone till I reset the blade angle and use that.....


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## jusoldave (Apr 28, 2012)

If I remember correctly, kegan is using the Tree Sharks with good success. The pics he's posted looked like he doesn't even need to split 'em open to gut 'em.

rattus, the guy that posted he was bluing his heads didn't go on to report how they actually worked out for him once he was done with the blue job. Which, in turn led me to question two things: how they stand up to moisture and blood, and what the heating/cooling did to the temper. But, of course, that never got addressed to my knowledge...


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## reddogge (Jul 21, 2009)

As we gun owner know gun bluing does not stand up well to moisture, rust OR blood. Why would one even consider it? Maybe parkerizing but that could get expensive. After sharpening I coat all of my broadheads with RIG which is an excellent preservative against rust.


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

I bet if you took those Zwickeys, blasted the paint off and got them shiny, then let them build a light coat of rust, knocked it off and treated them with a good oil and sharpened them they would look great.


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

jusoldave said:


> If I remember correctly, kegan is using the Tree Sharks with good success. The pics he's posted looked like he doesn't even need to split 'em open to gut 'em.
> 
> rattus, the guy that posted he was bluing his heads didn't go on to report how they actually worked out for him once he was done with the blue job. Which, in turn led me to question two things: how they stand up to moisture and blood, and what the heating/cooling did to the temper. But, of course, that never got addressed to my knowledge...


I completely agree.... I'd not be too comfortable with blueing being my rust preventer..... :grin:


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## Nokhead (Jun 10, 2012)

I don't think blue is much of a rust preventer, and heat bluing would not offer any protection at all. But...I don't know about you guys, but I "tend" to all my equipment before I go to sleep at night, so even if the head was bare steel, and I kept it oiled, I don't think I'd see rust in one day. However, I realize that that depends on what part of the country you live in. Anyhow, for those reasons a blued head would work for me, as I would clean and oil them every day...but I know that some don't "tend" to their equipment very well and rust could be a real problem. I get a spot of rust on the flintlocks from time to time, (kind of hard to keep the rifle in a quiver) but have never had any form on a broadhead.

Alpha is right, if you let the steel get a nice even, light rust on it, that will hold oil very well and prevent any further rust, and look nice as well..."patina". But bottom line, just like a steel knife, you have to keep it oiled on a regular basis.


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

Nokhead said:


> I don't think blue is much of a rust preventer, and heat bluing would not offer any protection at all. But...I don't know about you guys, but I "tend" to all my equipment before I go to sleep at night, so even if the head was bare steel, and I kept it oiled, I don't think I'd see rust in one day. However, I realize that that depends on what part of the country you live in. Anyhow, for those reasons a blued head would work for me, as I would clean and oil them every day...but I know that some don't "tend" to their equipment very well and rust could be a real problem. I get a spot of rust on the flintlocks from time to time, (kind of hard to keep the rifle in a quiver) but have never had any form on a broadhead.
> 
> Alpha is right, if you let the steel get a nice even, light rust on it, that will hold oil very well and prevent any further rust, and look nice as well..."patina". But bottom line, just like a steel knife, you have to keep it oiled on a regular basis.


That actually was how one of my muzzleloaders "browned"... :grin:


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

Zwickey Black Diamond Delta 2 blades and broad head adapters on the way, I will let you know...


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

Black Diamond Deltas would not fit my 5/16 adapters...they are 11/32. Gave them to a buddy. Any suggestions for a nice cut, good flying, 5/16 glue on\?


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

Anyone heard of Australian made Tuskers?


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

Decided to just go with the Eskilites. Called their phone number direct to order, it is 651-777-1965. Just ordered some from the man himself Super Bowl Sunday, Mr Zwickey answered the phone, took my order and talked for a bit. Saved quite a bit of money too. Shipping was $3 on a dozen heads!


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

Nokhead said:


> I don't think blue is much of a rust preventer, and heat bluing would not offer any protection at all. But...I don't know about you guys, but I "tend" to all my equipment before I go to sleep at night, so even if the head was bare steel, and I kept it oiled, I don't think I'd see rust in one day. However, I realize that that depends on what part of the country you live in. Anyhow, for those reasons a blued head would work for me, as I would clean and oil them every day...but I know that some don't "tend" to their equipment very well and rust could be a real problem. I get a spot of rust on the flintlocks from time to time, (kind of hard to keep the rifle in a quiver) but have never had any form on a broadhead.
> 
> Alpha is right, if you let the steel get a nice even, light rust on it, that will hold oil very well and prevent any further rust, and look nice as well..."patina". But bottom line, just like a steel knife, you have to keep it oiled on a regular basis.


Anyone ever tried Electroplating or Etching before sharpening?


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## pokynojoe (Feb 2, 2006)

I may be a little late to the topic. I have used Zwickey's for years and have never had a problem. I have always used the true-flite glue on/glue in adapters. These used to be available in a variety of sizes, not sure any more. One tip I learned from the owner of the company many years ago is that the green paint should be removed from the blade. The blades were never intended to be painted green, but marketing won out. What I do is take a Q-tip dipped in acetone and swab out the ferule before gluing, the paint comes right off. I've used hot melt and never had a problem after doing this. As was stated you'll need to spin them, I make very servicable arrow spinners from a strip of scrap lathing and a few marbles glued to the strip. Costs nothing. They are easy to sharpen, easy to tune, good value, and I've never had a problem with rust, and I live in pretty humid place.


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

I soaked mine in a small jar of acetone and swirled them around for a few minutes. I like the looks of them bare. I sharpened a few and they got really sharp on a Lansky. When I had the edge where I wanted it, I warmed the broadhead with a lighter and rubbed silicone bow wax on them. Will this keep the edge sharp until hunting season next fall> or should I treat them with something else to preserve the edge?


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