# DIY 2 X 72 Belt Grinder



## JG358 (Jul 6, 2007)

Looks Good:thumbs_up


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## recondoc (Jul 14, 2009)

I've been grinding out blade for about 10 years now and that's one of the nicest home built grinders I've seen. Much better than any of mine....I'll be copying this plan in the near future.
Thanks,
Doc


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## amcardon (Mar 17, 2009)

Very nice! Wanna build me one? ;-) Just kidding... But really, that looks fantastic and a lot less cluttered than the no-weld (which is what I'll probably end up doing...).


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## Race59 (Dec 7, 2008)

Excellent job!

Looks well thought out and versatile.


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## Special_K (Aug 28, 2008)

Very nice man. Hey can we get a material list. And parts list? Thanks again and this thing is awesome.


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## Barehunter (Feb 10, 2007)

Special_K said:


> Very nice man. Hey can we get a material list. And parts list? Thanks again and this thing is awesome.



Appreciate it. There were other requests for material list prior to AT crashing and I will try to work on that in a few days. If I forget....shoot me a pm.


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## Barehunter (Feb 10, 2007)

Since these photos were made I have added a tilting work table. Will try to get a shot of that on here.


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## Barehunter (Feb 10, 2007)

Here is a start for the material etc to build the grinder. I will probably do it in two or three posts as I get to it. This post will be for the general frame and will not include the details of the idler arm or the removable attachments.

Bottom frame is made from 1-1/2" X 1-1/2" X 1/8" angle (3/16 might be better). It is 22-1/2" X 18" and has 4 pcs of the same angle iron 3" long each welded to each corner for clamping or bolting the grinder down. Holes drilled in these for bolts. 22" dimension runs left to right when facing the grinder. 18" front to back.

Motor mounts are two 17-3/4" pcs of the same angle iron as above notched so that they are flush with the top of the frame. Welded in place. Mine are spaced 4" o.c. but depends on your motor hole spacing.

Bearing supports are welded to the rear. One very near the right rear corner and the other about 12" to the left. They are made from 2" X 1" X 3/16" channel iron each 6-1/2" long. Holes are drilled to match the hole spacing on whatever bearings you use. Mine are pillowblock bearings for 3/4" shaft. I slotted the holes slightly so that the shaft could be tilted up or down to fascillitate alignment. Shaft is 3/4" X 22" with a keyway cut in the end and another near the center for drive wheel and pulley. Also the right bearing support has a small eyebolt to hold the spring that goes to the idler arm. Not critical where it goes.

A second angle iron frame (same 1-1/2 X 1/8" angle) is 11-3/8 X 7-1/2" is welded vertically to the right side of the bottom frame and is spaced 3-1/2" from the front. Sitting so that the 11-3/8" dimension runs front to back. 

The vertical support for the idler arm is from 2" X 1" X 3/16" channel and is 19-3/4" long. Centered 1-1/2" down from the top is a 1/2" hole to bolt on the idler arm. It is welded in place 12-3/4" from the front edge of the bottom frame.

The angle brace that supports the idler arm is 1" X 3/16" flat and is about 27" long bent on each end to the appropriate angle. 

Welded on top of the small angle iron frame is the female telescopic portion that receives the attachments. I welded it up from angle to receive a 1-1/4" pc of square tubing. It is 11-3/8" long and I made it from two pcs of angle. One pc of angle is 1-1/2" X 1-1/2" X 1/4" and the other is 1-1/2" X 1-1/2" X 1/8". Somehow these pcs just fit together right to receive the square tubing. This is a critical step and takes some skill as you need a good tight fit, but also need the parts to telescope smoothly. Also it must be welded on so that it is level side to side so that wheels on the attachments will be square and run true. The 11-3/8" tube above has a hole drilled and tapped on the left front side 1-1/2" from the end. Size is 3/8" national fine thread. This is for the stop to hold the attachments in place. 

At present I have a 3/4 hp motor 1725 rpm. I hope to upgrade to a 1.5 hp 3450 rpm. Pulleys at present are 6" X 5/8" on the motor and 4" X 3/4" on the drive shaft. I plan to eventually replace these with quad pulleys so as to have 4 speeds. 

Most of these dimensions and material sizes are not critical at all. If you have the skills to construct this you can probably think through what is critical and what is not.

Next edition I will cover the idler arm etc which is adjustable in every direction to assure that the belt will run true. And then the attachments that telescope into what I have described so far.

I realize that it would be tough to build this from the description, but along with the pics it shouldn't be too difficult. I will be glad to answer individual questions as needed or post other pics etc. 

More to come..


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## Barehunter (Feb 10, 2007)

Note in the pics that on top of the female portion of the telescopic part there is a pyramid shaped pc of angle with holes drilled. It was a "just in case" I needed it to mount a work support etc and so far I have not used it. Hence it is not in the description above.


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## Bologna Xpress (Jan 3, 2007)

Nice setup ! Get that new motor and you will have some serious sparks flying! I run a 1 1/2 hp with step down pulleys and at top speed and 36 grit paper all I can say is watch your fingers :teeth:


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## Misfire (Jun 12, 2004)

Awesome! 



.


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## glenn1022 (Sep 24, 2009)

I was wondering about the wheels that you used. Where did you find them? Also, how has the wheels held up to allot of use? Did you have to install bearings? Great job by the way. I want to build one as I love to forge knives and arrow heads but cash is hard to come by and trying to scrap out as much as I can. I will say that you did a Awesome job.


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## Lagrange (Dec 8, 2008)

Nice job, very resouceful. To some extent, making your own tools is an extension of the pioneering spirit. Congrats!


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