# Finger Compound Bow



## southernalco (Feb 9, 2015)

Exactly what constitutes a "Finger Compound Bow" ???


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

a bow that can be shot split finger without any unnecessary finger pinch. typically an ATA of longer than 42"

A compound that has significant holding weight to help with clean release (65% or less let off). in addition it will need to have a generous valley...the instant/no valley speed bow cam isn't a real good choice.

one who's cams have deep string groves.


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## rsarns (Sep 23, 2008)

Fury90flier said:


> a bow that can be shot split finger without any unnecessary finger pinch. typically an ATA of longer than 42"
> 
> A compound that has significant holding weight to help with clean release (65% or less let off). in addition it will need to have a generous valley...the instant/no valley speed bow cam isn't a real good choice.
> 
> one who's cams have deep string groves.


Beg to differ on the small valley. I know several (including me) who love the new GTX cams. Hold against the wall, no chance of creeping as it will not let you. Kris on here has been tearing up the west coast with his Vantage Pro with GTX cams... I love mine. Cams with a large valley and mushy back wall are fine for those who like them, as are GTX, spirals etc, for those who like them. Personal preferences. AS far as accuracy, well they have been blowing up records this year, that have stood for 15+ years...


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

When you start seeing records which have stood for a while fall and that coincides with changes in equipment then it's pretty easy to connect the dots. For those people who are used the mushy walls the retraining might take a while but clearly there are major benefits.

-Grant


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## T2SHOOTER (Feb 26, 2014)

Pick one. With my short dl, I can shoot most any bow that feels good. Shooting three under really helps. My 37" Supra is an excellent bow. I also have the mushy back wall 45"Tribute, and it's good also. Even the Bear Anarchy is a good bow, but the 35" feels a little short. Try a few in your dl and see what works.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

rsarns said:


> Beg to differ on the small valley. I know several (including me) who love the new GTX cams. Hold against the wall, no chance of creeping as it will not let you. Kris on here has been tearing up the west coast with his Vantage Pro with GTX cams... I love mine. Cams with a large valley and mushy back wall are fine for those who like them, as are GTX, spirals etc, for those who like them. Personal preferences. AS far as accuracy, well they have been blowing up records this year, that have stood for 15+ years...


I understand what you're saying but you have to understand this is a new shooter judging by the nature of the question. Typically a newer shooter will want/need a more generous back wall as opposed to the rip your shoulder out if you "let up" like the spiralx cams.


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## rsarns (Sep 23, 2008)

Fury90flier said:


> I understand what you're saying but you have to understand this is a new shooter judging by the nature of the question. Typically a newer shooter will want/need a more generous back wall as opposed to the rip your shoulder out if you "let up" like the spiralx cams.


My now 15 year old son, who shot recurve till a bit over a month ago, I built him a Vantage Pro with GTX cams and XT 3000 limbs, well all he did was shoot in his first ever field (State Tourney) and break the State record that had been around since 2006. He switched to a 06 Protec with GTX cams for the State target, and he won that also. Not saying its for everyone, but unless you can shoot a clicker (legally such as NFAA BB class) the mushy back wall of wheels can cause new shooters to have issues of under drawing (shoot from the valley - creep) or over drawing and that's just as bad. WHat finger compound do you shoot? I will say that those who can shoot from the valley, Ben Rogers, Tom D etc are dang fierce doing it tho... LOL Just don't tell Ben I said that.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

a coach will help with draw length/anchor issues you mention.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

Nobody not shooting a clicker (and most that do) can maintain the same mechanical precision as a hard wall. Moreover it allows you to preload into it and execute more aggressively rather than a dead release.
It does however require a fundamental shift in how your execution is performed, but clearly for those who have made that shift it offers a ton of advantage.

-Grant


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

I wonder if it has to do with new shooters vs old shooters (I be old shooter). We were taught to pull through the shot (always moving) as opposed to the staged command release....definitely a difference in fundamentals.

It took me a while to get used to the rip the shoulder out feel of the SpiralX but once I did it wasn't too bad. But, the old wheel bow feel (big valley) is always more natural to me...just a more relaxed feel of the shot. I need to get an Oneida AeroForce cam (K cam?) draw curve....that was awesome for fingers


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## zestycj7 (Sep 24, 2010)

For me I like a hard wall with a long valley and as much let off as I can get.
I do not and will not ever understand why people say they can not get off the string if there is too much let off/not enough holding weight.
I have a dead release and for me I think that is the way to go, watch high speed video of a dead release verses a follow through release, your whole body moves on the follow through.

The main thing about what makes a good fingers bow is what fits the person.
What works for you might not work for me.

The most important thing is that the shooter has to be comfortable when he or she shoots the bow, and then making the bow shoot how you want it to shoot and not adapting to how the bow shoots.

As has been stated, typically a longer ATA length is preferable, but not mandatory.

I am by no means an expert at this, I have only been shooting competitions 5 years so still learning.
To the OP, just shoot a bunch of different bows and find one that fits your shooting style and adjust it to your liking.

Don.


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## russr (Jan 16, 2014)

Hi All

Going back to equipment considerations, your rest needs to be selected based on shooting style (release v.s. fingers). I used Bodoodle Timberdoodles or Pro/Pro-lites on my fingershooting Oneidas. This is to reduce arrow fishtailing introduced by finger shooting (releases, on the other hand, introduce a porpoising motion on the arrow).

Hope that helps some.

russ


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## Chris1ny (Oct 23, 2006)

Any compound bow that you shoot with fingers, tabs or gloves. Your choice of compound bow.

The Mathews Apex 7 is my finger barebow compound. 3 fingers under.


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## ScepticalScotty (Jun 25, 2010)

Shot in my first proper 3d on the weekend with my old Bear Denim - and I am still casting round for a replacement for it that doesn't break the bank. A young lady at the shoot gave me something to think about, in that as we both have a short draw around 26.75" a lot more bows are potentially "OK" to shoot without pinching.


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## T2SHOOTER (Feb 26, 2014)

You're correct. The PSE Supra has been out for a few years and at 37" works well with our short DL. We shoot three under, but no pinch at all and is a fun bow to shoot. Try to shoot one and I think you'll like it.


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## dragonheart II (Aug 20, 2010)

As bows have been becoming shorter and shorter and the cams are larger and larger, and let off is getting higher and higher, those that have a passion for shooting with their "God given" release aid find ways to adapt. The quest for the "perfect" finger bow also needs some thought into individual application. What style do you shoot? In what application will the shooter be using the tool. Bowhunting, target archery, indoor, bowhunter, Freestle limited, bowhunter fsl, barebow? The style of shooting can have a great impact on the most ideal style of bow for that application. I do not think you can judge a bow when you are practicing. The only way to know how it will be is under tournament pressure. You need that forgiveness. Deflex in the riser can be a real plus in any bow used for finger shooting!

_Barebow/Stringwalking_
Cams are not ideal for this style of shooting. Wheels are the most preferred eccentric. When you crawl down the string you are changing the sync of the eccenctrics and you need alot of forgivness built in. You want as long axle to axle as you can get. In shooting with a clicker this is even more important as you are "stretching" the bow to shoot your shorter targets to get thru the click. Some folks shoot two clickers to stay more in the valley. Shooting minus the clicker, ewheels are good, little more speed. I think the best eccenctric for this type of shooting is the Hoyt wheel and 1/2 as even crawling down the two are slaved together. 

_Competative Bowhunter _ 
Cams or wheels. I still believe axle to axle length. I really think below a 40-41" bow they just get unforgiving of errors and are too critical. Many cams today are very aggressive in the draw curve and are not as enjoyable to shoot with fingers. Still some of the best shooting ever done was with wheels, e-wheels, and mild cams with bows over 43" ATA. Shooting with 2 under can allow a shooter to shoot a shorter bow. One of the best shooting bows I had was a vantage pro with cam 1/2 shooting 2 under. Higher let off and cams requires a more dead release and adapting your style if you are more of a pull thru shooter. 

_Bowhunter Freestyle Limited _

Cams or wheels. Still I would avoid harsh cams with high (80%) let off. Great scores have been shot with both. Wheels you really need to be able to shoot some bow weight to get speed to get the gaps down on the pins. One of the greatest BHFSL to ever fling an arrow is Bob Gentry and he shot solocam. In contrast Charlie Langston shot round on round wheels, 48" ata, with 30% let off! Both archers posted 530+ scores on field and hunter rounds! 41" or more ata.

_Freestyle limited_

Same as BHFSL

_Bowhunting_

I think that many people forget the intensity of the hunting shot and look for faster, and inheirantly too ctritical of a bow for the hunting woods. You want speed, but quiet is very important. A short bow is easy to use in a stand, but go too short and it is overly critical when under pressure of adrenaline. I have hunted out of trees with a 66" bow. A 44" compound is in no way too long. Confidence is key, you want a bow that you can drill with, even when you are under pressure of adrenaline. 

There are fewer bows with eccentrics on them being built within my criteria for the ideal finger bow. Just as those in the early 1970's had to face fewer bows being built of the recurve nature, today finger shooters face the same delima of fewer compounds for finger shooting. There are alot of used bows out there, that fit the criteria and pass the smell test. 

Shoot the middle,

Schulz


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## Astroguy (Oct 11, 2013)

I prefer older 48" compounds and shooting from the valley, because it is what I know. Todays compounds have a different power curve and are meant to be shot off the wall. I will always promote a plunger with a wire rest, but as long as you don't shoot from the slope and have a compound that wont derail. Shoot it where the power curve is correct for your bow. My bows were meant to be shot from the middle of the valley. Others here with newer compounds shoot off the wall, because its what their bows are built for. An ATA 7" over your draw should be fine with the large cams on todays bows. Todays marketing promotes very very short bows for hunting, never meant to be shot with fingers. And Nerve Damage is a real consequence from finger pinch. 

State your Draw Length and budget , to get reasonable advice on what your choices should be.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

you bring up a valid point...where the bow is intended to be shot from- wall vs valley.


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## Wedge (Sep 18, 2014)

Hi all, I have a Barnsdale Classic x with the shoot thru cable setup, 55% letoff and 50#, 45.5 ata. I shoot it barebow and gap shoot, with 3 fingers under. Beautiful to shoot and very forgiving.


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## Chris1ny (Oct 23, 2006)

zestycj7 said:


> For me I like a hard wall with a long valley and as much let off as I can get.
> I do not and will not ever understand why people say they can not get off the string if there is too much let off/not enough holding weight.
> I have a dead release and for me I think that is the way to go, watch high speed video of a dead release verses a follow through release, your whole body moves on the follow through.
> 
> ...


Nice post.

Why did you decided on a dead release instead of follow through release? What are the pros and cons? What was your deciding factor?

Do you have any high speed video links?


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