# Breaking in and tuning a new string?



## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Before you twist anything you want to know how the cam is supposed to sit at rest. Are there marks or holes for orientation guidelines?


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

did you buy that at a basspro or somewhere that you can take it and have them hlep you out??


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## Hoosier bowman (Jan 10, 2010)

red44 said:


> Before you twist anything you want to know how the cam is supposed to sit at rest. Are there marks or holes for orientation guidelines?


The cam has a straight part that is supposed to be flush with the string when at rest. It is not at flush, so that means the ATA is too long and the string must be shorter right? Thanks for the reply.


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## Hoosier bowman (Jan 10, 2010)

dwagoner said:


> did you buy that at a basspro or somewhere that you can take it and have them hlep you out??


No, I ordered it from Cabelas and told them all the specs. They asked all the questions about size, etc. and I gave them all the right answers. I jsut thought I would ask yo guys. I shot the bow just yesterday and it was fine and shot great. I just don't want to do any more shootin' till I get this figured out. Thanks.


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## Hoosier bowman (Jan 10, 2010)

Anybody? Come on guys.


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## backwoodsfarm (Jan 1, 2009)

*Tuning*

I had a single cam bow for quite a few years and this is how I tuned it after new strings. I would twist or untwist the string and buss cable until my string centered the reference hole in my cam. Typically when I got a new string/cable, it was really darn close to begin with. Once my cam was "timed", I would then twist the string and buss cable at a ratio of 2:1 to get my A to A and Brace. Keep an eye on the cam timing as your doing this and adjust accordingly. Once you get close to specs, check your draw length and and weight to make sure your in specs. These I think are the most important measurement. Taking all of these with the limbs bottomed out. My bow usually would run 62lbs when my draw length was dead on. Once I got everything where it needed to be, go shoot as many arrows as you can without killing your arms or form, put the bow away for the night, do the same thing the next day, then check your specs all over again!! Adjust as necessary. Probably a little more shooting than necessary for most good string makers, but I don't want to think about that stuff during hunting season. Good luck.


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## Hoosier bowman (Jan 10, 2010)

backwoodsfarm said:


> I had a single cam bow for quite a few years and this is how I tuned it after new strings. I would twist or untwist the string and buss cable until my string centered the reference hole in my cam. Typically when I got a new string/cable, it was really darn close to begin with. Once my cam was "timed", I would then twist the string and buss cable at a ratio of 2:1 to get my A to A and Brace. Keep an eye on the cam timing as your doing this and adjust accordingly. Once you get close to specs, check your draw length and and weight to make sure your in specs. These I think are the most important measurement. Taking all of these with the limbs bottomed out. My bow usually would run 62lbs when my draw length was dead on. Once I got everything where it needed to be, go shoot as many arrows as you can without killing your arms or form, put the bow away for the night, do the same thing the next day, then check your specs all over again!! Adjust as necessary. Probably a little more shooting than necessary for most good string makers, but I don't want to think about that stuff during hunting season. Good luck.



Thanks. I will line it up like it is supposed to be (don't have any reference holes, but there is a line on the cam...) and then I will shoot the @#$% out of it until it is all settled. Will tell you all how it goes in a few days or next weekend. Again, thanks. :darkbeer:


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## bassman409 (Jul 19, 2006)

Adjust the a-a with the buss cable and then set the cam position with the string. Set everything with the limbs cranked to the max DW.


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## Hoosier bowman (Jan 10, 2010)

bassman409 said:


> Adjust the a-a with the buss cable and then set the cam position with the string. Set everything with the limbs cranked to the max DW.


That seems really simple and real easy to understand. I love when things are made easy for me. :smile:

I'll post back in a few days about my success. This will help me a great deal I think. Thanks A LOT. :shade:


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## jhumpjr (Jan 27, 2010)

Yeah simple...when you get that all figured out check out the oil levels on the flux capacitor. That is a must.


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## Hoosier bowman (Jan 10, 2010)

jhumpjr said:


> yeah simple...when you get that all figured out check out the oil levels on the flux capacitor. That is a must.


 

I just hope it's really that simple. I WILL take it slow and be careful. Thanks all for advice. :shade:


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