# Paper Tuning Problems



## clarkdeer (Dec 21, 2010)

I feel your pain. I cant get rid of a high right tear. Dont know?


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## whack n stack (Dec 23, 2007)

bigd9277 said:


> I'm trying to paper tune my bow for the first time & can't seem to figure it out. Every arrow i've shot seems to give me a low left tear. Based on some internet research, i've raised my nock point & moved my rest a little closer to the right. Nothing currently seems to be helping. Your thoughts. Also, below are my Bow & Arrow Specs.
> 
> 2011 Hoyt Rampage XT
> Shooting a D Loop
> ...


 Bigd

I think I can help a little. With my CRX


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## whack n stack (Dec 23, 2007)

whack n' stack said:


> Bigd
> 
> I think I can help a little. With my CRX


 OOOPS. hit enter a little soon. With my CRX I had the same issue. If you've got a press, press the bow and start with 1 or 2 twists(tighten) to the left yoke. Take a few more shots to re-settle and re-check. Once you get the arrow vertical coming out of the bow move your rest or nock point to get your up and down correct. Make sure your grip is super consistant! I had to introduce a small amount of cam lean to get the bow to shoot bullets. After that I shoot Muzzy's and field tips bunched together. Hope this helps. Lmk if this works for your Hoyt.

Norm


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## bigd9277 (Jun 23, 2008)

Thanks Wack N Stack.

I'll try this & let you know what happens.


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## woodsman70 (Aug 26, 2010)

try this


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## woodsman70 (Aug 26, 2010)

Try this link http://www.papertuning.com/ or this one http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf good luck


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## Kaz (Sep 28, 2007)

I agree with the technical tips provided but after going through a similar problem with my z7 I can say that all the technical tips do not do you any good if your grip is out of sync. I adjusted cam lean, knocking point, rest, etc. without end. I continued to get a bad 2-3" hard left tear...arrow looked like it was coming out of the bow sideways. I changed all the variables to the same result. I came from shooting a prestige (target grip) to a z7 with wood grip. I started changing points of pressure in my grip and with low palm grip with strong pressure I started punching bullet holes. Point is that bow might be in spec but your grip/anchor/release dictate a lot of how the arrow releases from the bow. Hope this helps.


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## j53 (Jun 8, 2007)

what kind of rest? Anyway I can go ahead and tell you that I used to be nuts about papertuning thinkin that was the ticket... but after switching to hoyts back in 09 and selling and setting up so many... Ive realized walkin back and group tuning and or broadhead tuning if need be are easiest ways to deal with these bows... One of the problems with the alphamax 32 and maaxis was normally the bottom cam would have too much play in it when you pressed it...sliding back and forth on the bottom axle distorting tears and throwing off a few arrows left and right when running a good group (add a thin shim inside the axle key)... My number one problem with the paper tuning were normally some sort of low tears at point blank or roughly three feet but straighten out around 6 ft.... We quit paper tuning n our shop in the last 2 years because Its way faster to walk balk and group tune a hoyt than worry about paper tuning then moving your rest again to better groups or broadhead flight anyway... One cams are easier to paper tune and set up in seconds I agree... Cam and a halves are different animals but deadly accurate... Here is what you do 
1. put bow on what ever poundage you desire first & make sure cams have no play in them when in press... most 2011's Ive set up dont
2. on the rampage you cannot see the hole it covered by the silent shelf but eyeball it from the back and run your arrow a lil high through the hole
3. when you set the knocking point set your shaft around a 1/8th inch high sittn in the rest ( gives your arrow a sense of direction-use levels if you have them)
4. make sure you have 32nd of and inch play at least if not fuzz more in your nock when sittn inside your d-loop (key accuaracy tip) doesnt pinch at full draw 
5. number one thing is this! timing on the draw... you draw have someone else look or look in mirror... make sure draw stop and module stop touch and leave cable at same time... adjust control cable till they do... draw machines primarily give me false readings... the best way is the shooter drawing... the pressure points on the grips from different shooters can change the timing
6. a great starting point for windage on the 2011's are right down the line in middle of your riser..put arrow through string and eye-ball to that spot which should also be through cam....
7. go walk it back right quick... makem fall in straight line 20-30-40 or close to that yardage... I dont even drop a string I just pick a spot on the target and walk back you can see which way they fall then adjust your rest a 32nd inch at a time... if you fade out to the left bump rest into the right a 32nd and go again till they straighten up and vice versa
8. get at forty and run a group... if you know you could shoot better than that drop rest a 32nd down and go again... that will give arrow an even better since of direction and groups will tightned (if you dont go to far and it gets worse)...
9. if you want to play with broadheads and field points in the same hole.... I can tell you how to do that if you like...

Since we started tuning these bows this way and playing with long distance shooting 90 yds etc.. we have come to fig out the cam and halves.. I shot 15 robin hoods with these bows from last summer to now up to 60 yds... They are extremely accuarate... paper tuning is only a starting point normally when I get a bow shooting the best its every shot it doesnt paper tune out always anyway.... A bow is tuned only as good as it groups....it took me a while to leave the paper but glad I dont dwell on it anymore.... 

FYI if you dont shoot tighter groups try different arrows... we've discovered the spine consistancy is what really makes them accurate to each other in that dozen... get you some carbon express blue streak 350's for your particular set up... you'll be faster and way more accurate..... got some guys down road set up with your same demensions... they switched from the lower grade g tips and x-weave hunters... its night and day man


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## bigd9277 (Jun 23, 2008)

Thanks j53, I'll try this method & let you know what happens.


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## bigd9277 (Jun 23, 2008)

Trophy Ridge Drop Zone rest is what is currently on my setup.


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## j53 (Jun 8, 2007)

Yeah that will work....just make sure you dont get chord too tight.... you want it to come to the top right at the end of your draw were you want be pullin on that cable too much...That would throw it out of time if you already had that set before you put rest on... by the way look for any spacing when push back and forth on the bottom cam and listen for popping...if you see daylight take axle key off and shim it I had to put shims in two crx's this week so some 2011's need them.... One was wallago as matter of fact had too much left and right at 40 yards in some good feeling shots...I double checked the cam and sure enough I saw some daylight... shimmed it right quick and groups immediatly tightened up


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## born2slay (Sep 16, 2010)

A thumb release can cause a low left tear....?


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