# Tiller Adjustment or Not



## scruffy dog (Sep 10, 2006)

Just a quick question regarding tiller on a compound bow, i have an ultratec and was wondering if adjusting tiller by having both limbs wound out different amounts was the correct thing to do if i have problems drawing up on a target. i find i always seem to aim low and have to make a real effort to raise the bow up to the target. if tiller adjustment is the correct way to deal with this, is there any limits as to how different the limb bolts could be between top and bottom.

thanks.


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## PA.JAY (May 26, 2004)

thought someone would of answered you by now . I'll just tell you what i think ! 
tiller tuning isn't necessary with the new bows they say . but if you want to try to do it max both bolts down & take 1/4 to 1/2 turn out of the bottom bolt this should bring the bow up to the target better for you.


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## emb (Feb 13, 2006)

I don't know if it helps, but here's a link to an article that seems pretty straight forward. 

http://archersadvantage.com/TipSheets/TillerTuning.htm


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

*Reply*

Hello
Frist off .
My question would be why do you come up on the target.

Starting above the target .And letting gravity lower your sight pin or dot into the center of target is much easer.

I would start off by setting your bow tiller even.Mark your limb bolts with white out for refferace points. Now I would have some one stand at my side and watch your stablizer while you make your shot..

And add weight or take weight off till stablizer is moveing forward in a straight line.

2nd I would set the scope level to your natural cant. For repeatable 
performance.Now if your natural cant seems to be in a strain add a side bar to off set the weight off your site. Till hand feels relaxed.

Now if your problem still exist .Like the other poster said.Back your bottom limb out in very small amounts ,from bow being at even tiller. Useing your white out marks as refferance points. If you find you can't safely back your bottom bolt out any more .Then tighten your upper limb bolt .[Coment ] now adjusting limb bolts and front stabliszer goses hand in hand to achieve bows relaxe aiming hand pressure and foward movement of the bow.

Later


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## SaltySeaCaptain (Oct 7, 2006)

I had the same problem until i raised my bow shoulder. I had it rotated down and i think it must have been too low, making my pin settle below a little bit. I adjusted tiller and it helped but nothing like squaring up at the target and standing tall.


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## bassman409 (Jul 19, 2006)

I read on here to just push your left hip out toward the target and the pin will rise perfectly into the target. Try it!


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## capt ace (Nov 11, 2005)

I'm thinking you may be freezing below the target as a result of target panic. Whats the difference if your pin holds steady and its not on what you want to hit. It's still holding steady. All the tiller adjustment in the world won't put the pin on the target and hold it there. YOU have to do it! The bow, sights,stabilizers,etc. don't even know where the target is!
I would suggest some form of rotational aiming to get your mind used to being able to put your sight pin on any target at any position and holding it there. See if you can draw your bow back and aim at something but don't shoot it. Let down. Try this several times. Remember you don't have to shoot the bow, just keep the pin on what you want to hit. I'm willing to bet that you can hold pretty steady on target as long as you don't have to shoot the bow.
Let us know how this works out .


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## scruffy dog (Sep 10, 2006)

thanks,
i think maybe its a cross between target panic and incorrect tiller or stabiliser weights.
you are correct, if i dont put a thumb on the release then i can hold fairly steady on a target, as soon as i get ready to make a shot the bow starts to drift in a downwards direction and i have to force it back up, more often than not i find i'm releasing whilst the bow is on the move drifting back up over the centre, this unfortunatly results in too many high or low shots.

why i was referring to the tiller is because i seem to be able to shoot better at low targets, eg, 20 yards, shooting at a 3 spot face, with the bottom target approx 3 to 3 1/2 feet from the floor, when drawing up, the bottom face seems to be a very comfortable/natural position to shoot at, and scores on the bottom of the 3 spots are better, but i have to force the bow up for the top 2 spots.

thanks.


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## slinger (Jul 25, 2003)

scruffy dog said:


> thanks,
> i think maybe its a cross between target panic and incorrect tiller or stabiliser weights.
> you are correct, if i dont put a thumb on the release then i can hold fairly steady on a target, as soon as i get ready to make a shot the bow starts to drift in a downwards direction and i have to force it back up, more often than not i find i'm releasing whilst the bow is on the move drifting back up over the centre, this unfortunatly results in too many high or low shots.
> 
> ...


Your draw length may be too short.
I find that I have a hard time aiming at the _bottom_ spots if my draw length is too _long_.
Just a thought.

slinger


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## capt ace (Nov 11, 2005)

scruffy dog said:


> thanks,
> 
> you are correct, if i dont put a thumb on the release then i can hold fairly steady on a target, as soon as i get ready to make a shot the bow starts to drift in a downwards direction and i have to force it back up, more often than not i find i'm releasing whilst the bow is on the move drifting back up over the centre, this unfortunately results in too many high or low shots.


 The reason the pin drifts off the target when you put your thumb on the trigger is because at that time you quit aiming and are thinking about activating the trigger instead. You are on a dangerous road with which more shot arrows will lead to more maladies unless you learn a different shot sequence/method .
Backtension with a surprise release is the cure. I would suggest you check out and learn how to shoot with backtension and a surprise release sooner instead of later. A coach versed in the ways of backtension may be your best option to learn how to shoot this way. Bernie Pellerite (Robinhood Video Productions) is a place to look if you would like to take on the endeavor by yourself.


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## norsask darton (May 8, 2005)

*tiller tuning*

I've done this before and it seems to work well. Tape a laser pointer to your stabilizer and pick a spot on the wall where the laser pointer hits and draw your bow. Watch what the dot does, if it goes up as you draw, you have more pressure on the top limb. If it goes down, you have too much pressure on the bottom limb. Adjust accordingly until the dot remains steady. I find that it takes very little adjustment. Just something I find that works for myself.


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## trob (Nov 5, 2005)

Tiller tunning does the same thing as moving your nock point up or down and can be used to fine tune nock point. It's less of an issue today because of adjustible rests. The nock point or tiller does effect how the bow holds. If the nock is too low the bow will pull down. You can test by pulling hard against the wall while watching the pin. If the cams are timed at even tiller, i suggest you leave the tiller even and move you nock point and rest down a bit and see if it helps.


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## pottergreg (Mar 20, 2015)

Tiller tuning is best used to fine tune the vertical nock travel between the 1/2 turns in the buss cable. *** does that mean in the real world? So you set the buss cable 1/2 turn tight and 1/2 turn loose (from best bare shaft vertical angle) and your bare shaft has a little direction up or down in either direction. Start with the limbs adjusted even measuring from the string to the riser at the same location top and bottom (I do it right where the riser ends and the limb starts) do NOT trust 1/2 turn out or whatever, measure it. The "new bows are made perfect and don't need measuring is BS) Try 1/8 turn on ONE limb bolt. You can also do it with a fletched shaft at a comfortable long distance. Good luck, you need to shoot it in!


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