# Floating limb bolts for W&W risers



## ThomVis (Feb 21, 2012)

On my SF Forged+ I installed Hoyt floating limb bolts. Needed to buy them with the locking bolts, because SF has a different locking system on theirs. Threads are 12mm x 1.25mm.


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## archerynooblol (Nov 6, 2010)

ThomVis said:


> On my SF Forged+ I installed Hoyt floating limb bolts. Needed to buy them with the locking bolts, because SF has a different locking system on theirs. Threads are 12mm x 1.25mm.


Could you post a picture of this?

Thanks,

AN


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## Vjeszczi (May 19, 2013)

I am also interested in how you set this up on your SF Forged+


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## anmactire (Sep 4, 2012)

Vjeszczi said:


> I am also interested in how you set this up on your SF Forged+


+1
Had been wondering about this for a little while, though I imagine they make no difference at all and are just a useful way to make your wallet lighter. My old limbs had an annoying circular mark from the tiller bolts that I'd like to avoid putting on my new set...


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## Norman2 (Aug 4, 2012)

anmactire said:


> +1
> Had been wondering about this for a little while, though I imagine they make no difference at all and are just a useful way to make your wallet lighter. My old limbs had an annoying circular mark from the tiller bolts that I'd like to avoid putting on my new set...


Hi, My old limbs also got scuffed by my tiller bolts but when I got my new SF Premium Carbons I installed delrin
washers on my tiller bolts and no more marks. See Photos. Regards
Norman


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## kakend (Oct 30, 2007)

I put the hoyt pro tiller bolts in my GMX and I don't know if it was a sugar pill or if it really made a difference in both vibration and noise level. I had previously put this riser up for sale and now after selling limbs that both matched it and were in my opinion excellent limbs I am going to try both Border hex6 bb2's, and a pair of Morrison max1's. I plan on keeping this riser (I've said it before and I am sure I will say it again), and using it for hunting... while I shoot my Spig for target.

Please ask any questions about bolts... I don't know if I will be able to do justice to the answers but I will give it a shot.

Have a great day,
Kasey


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## ThomVis (Feb 21, 2012)

The problem I had with the SF limb bolts, when you screw them in (or out) past a certain point, the load on the limb bolt is put on the leading edge of the bolt head, so it's not equal across the head. This will accelerate the failure of the bolt. How fast? Don't know, but this, combined with the scratching of my limbs made me look for an alternative.


















Just make sure you have the locking screw as well, which looks like this:









Added bonus: I screwed in the SF tiller bolts to max weight to tune my bow to the arrows. I installed the Hoyt tiller bolts with the same tiller, but now have 2-3 turn left to full in. :mracoustic:


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## DruFire (Jan 10, 2013)

Wasn't aware the Hoyt's would fit, think ill call Fred down at k1 and see if he's got a set I can test fit


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## Vjeszczi (May 19, 2013)

Where can you get the locking nut?


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## ThomVis (Feb 21, 2012)

Vjeszczi said:


> Where can you get the locking nut?


Any Hoyt supplying shop should be able to sell you these. Online, Alternative Sporting Services.


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## archerynooblol (Nov 6, 2010)

ThomVis said:


> Any Hoyt supplying shop should be able to sell you these. Online, Alternative Sporting Services.


Interesting. That's pretty awesome, thanks for sharing. Weird that they don't sell the bolts with the set screw. I guess they're assuming that you already have them for replacing a Hoyt?

I might have to try this. I wonder if they will fit on an Inno...

AN


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## anmactire (Sep 4, 2012)

Thats a far more sensible solution financially Norman. How thick are your washers? Not that it would be an issue with my limbs but it would add a little preload if that makes sense, by pushing the limb butt closer to the riser effectively the same as turning the bolts in a little. If you got them thin enough obviously it wouldn't make much difference, just a small tiller bolt adjustment to get things back to how they were.


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## Norman2 (Aug 4, 2012)

anmactire said:


> Thats a far more sensible solution financially Norman. How thick are your washers? Not that it would be an issue with my limbs but it would add a little preload if that makes sense, by pushing the limb butt closer to the riser effectively the same as turning the bolts in a little. If you got them thin enough obviously it wouldn't make much difference, just a small tiller bolt adjustment to get things back to how they were.


Hi, They are 1/16" thick and cost 42 cents a piece. They sure work. Regards
Norman


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## mcharles (Nov 11, 2009)

Where did you get them Norman?


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## bobnikon (Jun 10, 2012)

I did this, shortly after Norman posted his efforts the first time. I found with my GMX bolts, I had to cut the washer to be able to slide them onto the bolts, but they seem to protect the tips a little. Can't say I have noticed much other difference. My only concern would be if they don't compress at the contact points evenly if this could lead to twisting. Not sure...
I got mine at Lowes.
Cheers
Erik


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## dylpickleeeeeee (Jun 6, 2013)

Norman2 said:


> Hi, My old limbs also got scuffed by my tiller bolts but when I got my new SF Premium Carbons I installed delrin
> washers on my tiller bolts and no more marks. See Photos. Regards
> Norman


where did you get those washers? they seem like a simple and inexpensive way to fix it.


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## Norman2 (Aug 4, 2012)

mcharles said:


> Where did you get them Norman?


Ace Hardware, Regards
Norman


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## DWAA Archer (Oct 14, 2011)

ThomVis said:


> The problem I had with the SF limb bolts, when you screw them in (or out) past a certain point, the load on the limb bolt is put on the leading edge of the bolt head, so it's not equal across the head. This will accelerate the failure of the bolt. How fast? Don't know, but this, combined with the scratching of my limbs made me look for an alternative.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


With the floating limb bolt installed does that mean that the locking screw is now captive? what I mean is to remove the locking screw from the riser you would have to take out the limb bolt first.


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## MickeyBisco (Jul 14, 2012)

I think I might switch out the non floaties on my Nexus, don't see why one couldn't.


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## ThomVis (Feb 21, 2012)

DWAA Archer said:


> With the floating limb bolt installed does that mean that the locking screw is now captive? what I mean is to remove the locking screw from the riser you would have to take out the limb bolt first.


Nope, in my Forged+ the limb bolt hole goes through, so the limb bolt goes in from the belly side, the locking bolt goes in from the back side, where they meet they lock. 
It might be a good idea to thread the locking bolt in though the belly side thou, because of paint buildup on the back side. The original SF bolt doesn't go down that far, so there might be some paint there to make it a little harder to put the little fiddly bolt in. With a little force I could remove the surplus paint so I can thread it in from the back (in another context that would be so wrong.....).


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## MickeyBisco (Jul 14, 2012)

MickeyBisco said:


> I think I might switch out the non floaties on my Nexus, don't see why one couldn't.



I now see why one indeed couldn't. Don't know about other risers such as the GMX, but floating limb bolts are a larger size thread than whats currently in my Nexus, so no dice. I thought they were both 9/16.


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## zal (May 1, 2007)

Why fix an issue that never was?

W&W bolts have been better than Hoyt bolts for years already, I've sheared none and haven't heard anyone else shear one for years.


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## ThomVis (Feb 21, 2012)

See the picture of a fully wound in limb bolt: Seb Flute riser - how much draw wt. adjustment?
That setting is going to cause scratching of the limbs. Scratching I can do without.
Oh, and because I can. :drum:


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