# Knife making steps



## Rancid Crabtree

I have been sent a buch of PM's asking questions about how somebody would go about making their own knife. Here is how I make a knife from a table saw blade.

I went through my stash of saw blades. I don’t have a shortage of them. I use the ones without carbide teeth so I know the whole blade is made of hard steel.










This is going to be a drop point skinner blade out of a .08 think 10 inch circular saw blade. A file told me it was good and hard



















I used the Dremmel tool to cut the knife out of the saw blade. 









With a little grinding and polishing, it cleans up well.










To add a little bit of style to the knife, I used a round chainsaw file on the backbone of the blade. I didn’t go very deep.










I then used gun bluing on the file work and then polished away everything but what was in the grooves. I think it adds a nice touch to the look of the blade.




























In order to drill the pin holes, I needed to soften the steel. I used a MAP gas tourch and slowly heated the tang.




























Then I drilled the holes.










I cleaned up the blade again and added the bevel.










At this point you can either put a handle on the knife or heat threat it to get the knife even harder than it already is. If the steel is already good and hard, I may leave it alone. On some knives I will heat treat. The most common question I have been getting is "How to you hold the wood to the handle of the knife. I use 2 part epoxy. Use the slowest cure (12 hour) that you can find at any hardware store.

I like to use exotic woods or antler for the handles. This wood is called bloodwood.


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## Rancid Crabtree

This is a knife made from O1 tool steel, 1/8 thick 1 1/2 wide. The wrapper even came with the recipe instructions on the label. 










The antler was a little long so I cut about an inch off the end but I will have a use for that as well.










I can see a blank slate here. I can't leave it that way.










First I removed as much of the core as I needed.










Then I started working on the blade.



















Then I roughed out a finger guard.










Time to bevel.










Beveling completed. Time to heat treat. The label said to use light oil so I did.










I used the burner from my range in the "Man Room" as well as a MAP gas torch to get the blade hot enough that a magnet would not stick to it.










Then it hit the oil.










Next, It sat in the oven for one hour at around 500F










During that time, I worked on the finger guard and the antler to get it ready to assemble.




























After tempering, I cleaned it up a bit.










Then I assembled it.










And let it sit over night.










After unwrapping and a bit of buffing, it;s starting to take shape.



















I filled in the blank slate as well.










Here is how I used the cut off end of the antler. I cut a slot in it to display the knife.


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## Rancid Crabtree

I will attempt to show some of the steps I have left out in previous knives. Namely the grinding or stock removal steps. Again. I am a shadetree knife maker so I don't have any special tools that I own specifically for knife making. These are just your everyday shop tools. This knife will have elk slab sides. The blade comes from the same 1/8" thick rusty old concrete saw blade. Recently I cut a few small pieces from this blade and heat treated them and took them to work and used a hardness tester to see how effective my heat treat really is. The untouched blade material came in at Rockwell 35. The heat treated material came in at RC55 for hardness. A file is RC60. These will hold an edge nicely.










For the first step in stock removal, I use a 6 inch bench grinder. I don't care if the blade gets hot and turns blue because I will be heat treating it later. I simply clamp a metal stop on the tool rest to keep things consistent. 



















I move it once to get closer to the tip after removing material from higher up on the blade. The tape is to keep me from grinding away the finger guard










I follow up with a belt sander to smooth out the grind marks.



















This leaves more of a straight or convex grind which is slightly stronger than the conventional concave grind.

With all the stock removal done and the blade heat treated, I give the blade a going over with 120 grit sandpaper on on orbital sander.










I will use elk antler for the scales. 










I split the section in half and sanded them to shape.










I added the antler scales to the knife blade. I used slow cure epoxy and brass pins. I turned out fairly well.





































That rusty old blade sure cleans up nice. It was pretty much like a mirror.


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## Rancid Crabtree

this time I am adding metal bolsters to each side of the blade. I used aluminum with brass pins. I will use Cocobolo wood for the scales. And mosaic pins




























I used hollow pins to attach the cocobolo scales to the knife. I want to make mosaic pins so I am using small diameter aluminum tubes and epoxy to fill the hollow brass tubes. It should dress up the pins a bit.



















I do not want a glossy finish so I rubbed the tung oil in. I will give it a few more coats over the next few days. I only have a 2 Mega Pixel camera so the quality of the pics is low. I am trying to take better pics but until I get a better camera, this is about as good as it gets.














































All the knives I have made from this saw blade finish out at RC55 to 58 for hardness. I heat until non magnetic and then quench in oil.


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## Rancid Crabtree

I cut a chunk of it away with a angle grinder.










This will be a hunting knife with a drop point and a finger guard.










This is a very thick blade.



















Next, I heated the blade cherry red and let it cool very slowly to soften the steel. so I could drill hole and grind a bevel and do some file work.










this time I am going to do a "W" pattern on the backbone of the blade. I marked off the spacing with a sharpie.










Then I used a small square file on one side of the blade.










Then turned the blade around and did the other side.










I added a little bluing to bring out the details.



















With all the file work done, I heat treated the blade by heating it until it was non magnetic (around 1500F) and then quenched it in 130F salt water. Next I temper it at 400F for one hour. Finally I polish the blade to a mirror finish.

I used curly maple and aluminum pins. I'm calling it *"Blonde"*














































The last step is to make a sheath. I use 7 Ox. Veg. tanned leather and then dye it to the color I want after I sew it.




















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## Rancid Crabtree

I love making things out of crap laying around the shop (plus I'm cheap) I get blade seconds from the Chicago Cutlery store for a very good price. The blades are a bit thinner than they should be so I guess that's why they are seconds. This will be a sort of Puukko style knife. They always have big beefy handles.This knife handle will be made from birch bark and other garbage I have in the shop.










This will be lucky blank.










I want a smallish blade, around 4 inches long.










After a little cutting, shaping and polishing, it's taking shape nicely.










I want brass bolsters and I had a piece of an old brass bed laying around. I cut a chunk off and hammered it flat.



















The handle will be made from birch bark that I came across a few years ago and saved for just such a purpose.










I will stack layers of the bark on top of one another and finish it with another brass bolster and a pin.










I polished the front brass plate and decided to add a little color. I found a broken red window ice scrapper and a piece of white plastic to put on at the beginning and end of the birch bark. I cut out all the birch bark squares then I cut the tang hole in them.



















I then placed piece of white and red plastic from a broken window ice scrapper and two pieces of brass on the end of the stack. Then I did a rough sanding job just to get everything even so I can sketch an outline on the surface.



















I then added more brass to the end of the stack and sanded it to shape.



















After I finished sanding and polishing the brass, I applied a coat of Tung oil to the handle. 4 more coats and a little polishing and it will be done.




























After 5 days and 5 coats of tung oil (it really soaked in) The finished Birch Bark knife project.








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## Rancid Crabtree

I've had a 420 stainless blade with a gut hook laying around for a while. I acquired it in a trade. Because of the Tang design, It could only be attached to a hollow handle (hidden Tang)










Now that I got my hands on a bunch of elk antler, I was ready to assemble this knife. I made a trade with a fellow to get the elk antlers, I got two real nice sheds and all I had to trade was 60 pieces of green paper with pictures of George Washington on them. (That fellow must be new at trading because that paper makes a lousy knife handle but I wasn't going to tell him that.)










I found a section of one of the antlers that had a handle in it and cut it out with a hand saw..



















In order to fit the tang into the elk antler, I drilled a hole in the center but not completely through the other side. I then drilled 2 holes through the side of the antler for a pair of 3/16 inch brass pins.










I made a brass finger guard and pommel from some 1/8 inch bar stock and then did a little polishing on the base of the blade and the guard because it will be harder to polish later when the knife is assembled. The pommel (end cap) will be held in place with 2 brass pins.










In order to protect all the surfaces while assembling the knife, I covered the important areas with painters tape. I then mixed up some industrial epoxy with a holding strength of 3500 psi. It was a very messy job as I had to fill the hole in the antler to the top with the epoxy while it kept spilling out the side holes where the pins would go. After putting in a couple plugs, I was very happy I covered everything with the blue tape.



















After a 24 hour cure time, I will unwrap the knife and begin shaping the handle by removing some brass and beveling the ends of the antler. Then I'll give everything a good buff/polish.

Here it is after polishing.




























With the knife finished, I made a sheath. I used 8 Oz. leather.










I did a little pattern work on it and got it ready for stitching.



















Then I applied a coat of dark brown stain.










After drying overnight, I rubbed in mink oil to water proof and give a shine. Another project complete.


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## Rancid Crabtree

This is a project in which I wanted to make a multi-colored wooden handle knife. I used a Chicago Cutlery blank which was a kitchen/utility knife that I will turn it into a hunting knife.










This is a fairly thick blank. The back is at least an 1/8 of an inch thick. It is very stiff. I had to ad a top edge bevel to this blade as well 










I cut out the shape for a 4 inch drop point blade with the Dremmel tool.










With a little grinding and polishing, it is starting to take shape.










I picked up some Maple veneer at the Home Depot and cut it into strips that are just slightly larger than the knife's tang.










I want each layer to be a different color so I am using Rit dye to stain the wood.










I decided to use camo colors. Black, Brown, Green and tan.










The three batches that I dyed curled so I dried them with a rag and then pressed between two boards to dry.










I glued up the layers with carpenter glue and let them sit overnight.










I cut them down to the rough size in order to get them ready to mount them to the knife tang.










I added the laminated handle sides to the knife with epoxy and brass pins I also did some rough sanding as well. So far, Im getting the results I had hoped for.




























What is a knife without a sheath? I used a thick dark piece of tanned buffalo shoulder. It's stiff and strong and it has a nice color.










I cut out a rough shape for the sheath, the welt and a belt loop.










Next I stitched the belt loop in place because it would be hard to do after the sheath is folded. I am using a waxed sinew.










To make stitching easier. I use rubber contact cement to hold all the layers in place and to keep them from shifting.










After gluing all the sides together, I took the sheath to the belt sander to get rid of the glue that squeezed out along the edge.










I then used a forked punch to equally space the holes for the stitching.










I stitched the sheath and added brass rivets. In order to shape the sheath to the handle, I soaked it in rubbing alcohol because it evaporates quickly.



















The last step is to dip the whole thing into a pot of melted wax and mink oil but I need it to be completely dry first.

It's looking pretty good so far.










To waterproof the sheath I heated neats foot oil and paraffin wax to the point that it began to smoke. I then placed the sheath in and when the bubbles stopped I removed it and drained it.










When it finally cooled, I gave it a good rubdown/polish. The sheath is done. A few more coats of tung oil on the knife handle and this project will be done. The sheath is sitting on the same piece of leather it was cut from. It got much darker from the waterproofing.



















the laminated handle knife and sheath is finally finished.


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## nywell

*Nice*

This is a great post. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.


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## YankeeRebel

Wow!! You are one hell of a knife maker there Rancid Crabtree. Thanx for sharing and for the great illustrations. This should be a sticky. :thumb:


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## Dobber

*Quite a talent you have there.....*

Great work....thanks for sharing!


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## XXLnevermis

Absolutely magnificent craftsmanship. Thank you for sharing!


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## jcsanders79-xt

Great thread. Love custom knifes.


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## tpoof

Gonna be alot of folk grinding away on sawblades now I'm thinkin! 
What a great post! 
Well done Rancid!


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## Babooze

Thank you Rancid! I just started to make my own knives as well, and this has answered a lot of questions I had. This is a very informative post! BTW Your Moniker wouldn't have anything to do with the character in the writings of Pat Mcmanus would it? :darkbeer:


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## Rancid Crabtree

Babooze said:


> Thank you Rancid! I just started to make my own knives as well, and this has answered a lot of questions I had. This is a very informative post! BTW Your Moniker wouldn't have anything to do with the character in the writings of Pat Mcmanus would it? :darkbeer:


Why whatever do you mean? :zip:


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## Skeptic

Is this TR?


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## LiteSpeed1

Unbelievable!! You have a real talent.


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## zmax hunter

BigPappa said:


> Is this TR?


I dont know about TR, this fellow seems to go with a K for his trademark, me thinks it stands for "Knife"


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## IHNTELK

Wow!! Amazing!! Outstanding post. Thanks!!


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## crutchracing

Wow great post Rancid you do some nice knifes. Makes me whant to start making one my self. :darkbeer::darkbeer:


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## Rancid Crabtree

A couple other saw balde knives. All from 10 inch table saw blades.

With an Ipe handle










With an antler and wlanut handle










With a Cocobolo handle


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## buckmark23

We should start a Rancid Crabtree forum. 

Once again Great Job.


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## IHNTELK

Can you show some detail pics of how you do the pins??


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## FultonCtyHunter

Simply amazing. You are one talented individual.


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## Rancid Crabtree

I don't have any pics of that process. Go to a hobby store and finde the small tubing that most of them sell. Experiment by placing various other smaller tubes inside the bigger tube. try squares inside rouns with smaller rounds outside the square. The skies the limit. Everything is held in place with slow cure epoxy.

Here is a google search on the term "Mosaic Pins" that will explain.

http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=mosaic+pins&gbv=2

Experiment with diff materials.

http://images.google.com/imgres?img...ev=/images?q=mosaic+pins&gbv=2&hl=en&safe=off


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## zmax hunter

Hey RC, great thread, pics, and more importantly Knives! Not sure if this will help you with you building but these people have 10's of thousands of items. I have seen their warehouse and they have millions of feet of keystock and tool steel, good stuff in the right hands.

I think we all would like to see athread on how to polish the steel, least ways i know i would.

http://www.huyett.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=22


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## Rancid Crabtree

Thanks! I'm always interested in sources for material. I am pretty lucky to live near a lot of sources for what I need.


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## shooter22

When In college I made a knife quite like the top one in your Post 22 of this thread. I made it out of an semi tractor leaf spring. It was about 1/4" thick when I got done grinding it down some. I put a black walnut handle on it. We used it for years to split the breast on deer while field dressing and then it kept its edge and I used it as a skinner. Unfortunately I leased a deer hunting ground a few years ago and lost that knife in the field somewhere and now it is gone forever. 

I would liketo make a filet knife, what would you suggest as a blade material for that? Unfortunatley I dont have all the equipment I had available at the University. It was real nice to be able to anneal in a few hours and then do everything and heat treat with all the proper equipment, I now will have to do it like you,. with a garage full of real man equipment. :wink: 

Kevin


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## h_town_ags

Nice work RC, I really like Blonde and the Cocobolo handle knife. How many hours does it take you on average to complete a knife.


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## Rancid Crabtree

shooter22 said:


> When In college I made a knife quite like the top one in your Post 22 of this thread. I made it out of an semi tractor leaf spring. It was about 1/4" thick when I got done grinding it down some. I put a black walnut handle on it. We used it for years to split the breast on deer while field dressing and then it kept its edge and I used it as a skinner. Unfortunately I leased a deer hunting ground a few years ago and lost that knife in the field somewhere and now it is gone forever.
> 
> I would liketo make a filet knife, what would you suggest as a blade material for that? Unfortunatley I dont have all the equipment I had available at the University. It was real nice to be able to anneal in a few hours and then do everything and heat treat with all the proper equipment, I now will have to do it like you,. with a garage full of real man equipment. :wink:
> 
> Kevin


Large band saw blades make great fillet knives. Find a machine shop and ask them for broken blades. M42 makes the best fillet knives.











After some cutting, shaping, beveling, sharpening and polishing. The blade is ready for a handle. Now I just need to figure out what that material will be.










Add a handle and your done.


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## Rancid Crabtree

h_town_ags said:


> Nice work RC, I really like Blonde and the Cocobolo handle knife. How many hours does it take you on average to complete a knife.


Thats a tough one. Some can take 40 hours while others only 12


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## j3dgu

Excellent craftsmanship. Thanks for the thread and the lessons.:darkbeer:


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## rodney482

Do you make long bows?


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## LiteSpeed1

Rancid---are the pins through the handles glued in or are they peened in some way?


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## OOPS!

This is the greatest thread I've seen in awhile!
I have some free time this week and I think I'm going to have a go at knife making.
Thanks for such a great thread!


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## Rancid Crabtree

rodney482 said:


> Do you make long bows?


Yes sure, I surely do. This is a set I made for my son. I made everything you see here except the deer hide.










You can see all the steps that go into making that bow at this thread in the traditional area.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=7200575


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## Rancid Crabtree

LiteSpeed1 said:


> Rancid---are the pins through the handles glued in or are they peened in some way?


No sir. No peening. All pins are held in place with a slow cure epoxy.


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## Jamis

Wow those are some awesome looking knives!


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## tsjens52

Absolutely beautiful knives!!


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## twisted1600

:77:


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## elkhunter2

RC you are one very skilled person .I really like the curly maple knife. Thank you for putting together this thread. I think I will try my hand at making a knife.


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## Todd_ID

Truly amazing! I've got patience, but those simply exude skill and craftsmanship. I'd say those are some of the finer knives I've ever seen.


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## mightybison

Rancid, You . . . Are . . . the MAN!!!! Thanks so much.


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## hivoltg

RC-
I have really enjoyed this thread. I am thnking (as I am sure many here are) of trying my hand and making a knife. Can you give us an example of one of the easier builds you have done? Something you would suggest a novice try to create on their first project.

Thanks again and keep the pics and tips coming. I'm taking notes here:darkbeer:

VOLT


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## buck knife

I enjoyed all your posts on knifemaking,thanks for taking the time to share.:darkbeer:


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## Rancid Crabtree

hivoltg said:


> RC-
> I have really enjoyed this thread. I am thnking (as I am sure many here are) of trying my hand and making a knife. Can you give us an example of one of the easier builds you have done? Something you would suggest a novice try to create on their first project.
> 
> Thanks again and keep the pics and tips coming. I'm taking notes here:darkbeer:
> 
> VOLT


The drop point knife with the Cocobolo hande in post #22 is about as basic as one can get for a starter knife with two pins. That would be a good starting point by using a saw blade.


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## Meleagris1

Amazing work. You are quite a craftsman. :darkbeer:


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## Cmarti

Great work! 

BTW, one of the strongest slow set epoxies I have found is golf club shafting epoxy with a 24 hour cure time. Excellent shear strength.


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## elkhunter2

RC I would think you could cut out the blanks with a plasma cutter. It would be much faster and not much heat envolved.


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## Rancid Crabtree

Correct. I wish I has one of those.


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## hoyt-n-illinois

Thanks for showing us your steps.


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## wmb

RC, two questions:
How do you polish the blade to a mirror finish? What do you use on your handles for a glossy finish?


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## tking

*Thanks a lot!*

Now I have to explain to my wife why I'm cutting up saw blades and "cooking" them in her oven!:wink:


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## Jay-J

*Wow*

Very nice and informative! This absolutely needs to be a STICKY!


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## SturgellatOSU

I made this knife 2 years ago. Used a sod harvesting blade (which I should have heat treated) with phenolic (canvas mycarta) handles. It was quite an experience, I might throw another together out of a saw blade if they are decent at resisting oxidation.


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## SturgellatOSU

Also Rancid, have you tested any of the knives out have made on hardness? What hardness do the saw blade usually start out at? How hard can you get them without being too brittle?


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## SturgellatOSU

Cut one out today with a gut hook. Looks promising, btt.


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## Rancid Crabtree

SturgellatOSU said:


> Also Rancid, have you tested any of the knives out have made on hardness? What hardness do the saw blade usually start out at? How hard can you get them without being too brittle?


The saw blades start out in the 40's for hardness, Heat treating and then tempering finishes that at about the mid 50's or more. You will not be able to drill a pin hole in the tang until you anneal (soften the metal)


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## Buckblood

Rancid made me a beautiful knife and really surprised me with it. It's amazing, and I wanted to show it off. Rancid made it out of a moose antler. It's a work of art. There is also a build along with pics for this one too. Rancid is truely an amazing dude!


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## njharnde

*knife*

do you hammer the pins to get them to hold?


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## tatersdad

I have never been able to find a cutoff wheel to go on my dremmil tool that I thought would cut thru a sawblade,without replaceing it 500 times. Am I buying the wrong ones, or is that a higher quality dremmil tool than mine?
Also could you reverse the cut out from the saw blade and use a saw tooth for the start of a gut hook?( you've probably already done that):embara:
JD


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## Rancid Crabtree

njharnde said:


> do you hammer the pins to get them to hold?


Read through everything above. Epoxy is the answer.


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## Rancid Crabtree

tatersdad. Try the cut off wheels with the mesh reinforcing in them. they last 10 times longer.


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## Rancid Crabtree

Thanks Buckblood. Im glad you are enjoying the knife. I can't take all the credit for that one as our friend sent me the moose antler and got the ball rolling on the knife gift. 

Folks, I am getting a lot of PM's from folks asking me to sell them knives.

*I AM NOT* a AT sponsor and I will not be selling knives here. I am more than happy to help anybody that asks questions about how to make a knife but I only do this as a hobby and like I have already said, I give away or donate most of the knives I make and I already have more than enough knives to make right now.


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## mwaym

Awesome knives !!!!:wink: How bad do those knives rust ??? Do ya gotta keep them lubed ??? :embara:


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## Rancid Crabtree

mwaym said:


> Awesome knives !!!!:wink: How bad do those knives rust ??? Do ya gotta keep them lubed ??? :embara:


O1 steel has been very good to me. I have not had any corrosion issues. Like anything. You have to take care of your tools and clean and dry them after use. I will occasionally give a blade a wipe down with a silicone gun cloth if I know I won't be using it for a while.


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## nkyhusker

*Polishing*



wmb said:


> RC, two questions:
> How do you polish the blade to a mirror finish? What do you use on your handles for a glossy finish?


RC - Did you have the opportunity to answer these questions? I am very interested as well. 

Thanks for all of your information. This is something that I've considered for years but didn't think was possible without a big investment in tools and heat treating equipment.


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## Rancid Crabtree

nkyhusker, I'm sorry if I missed that question. Getting a mirror finish is simply elbow grease. I use a variety of grades of sandpaper on either a belt sander or a palm (hand) sander. The more work that is done with sandpaper, the less buffing is required. I will go as high as 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and then use a flannel buffing wheel mounted on my bench grinder, with polishing compound that can be found at hardware stores. 

Know this , Buffing wheels hate you and will do what every they can to rip a knife out of your hands and throw it across the room or into your foot. The less time I spend at the buffer the better so sandpaper is you best friend.

P.S. I think I like your signature line the best.


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## SturgellatOSU

Oh and the best way to conserve cutting wheels on a Dremel is let IT cut, don't force it. It only took me one regular non reinforced wheel to cut mine out.


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## Reverend

RC-
That's some really nice work there. To date I've made 3 knives and am currently working on a 4-5th one. Though I'm nowhere near your level of craftsmanship and expertise, I thought it would be nice to post my first knife. The blank came from a knife supply. The handle is birdseye maple, with a brown spacer and mosaic pins.

BTW What is the difference between quenching a blade in oil, versus water?


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## Rancid Crabtree

Certain steels are oil quench while others are water quench while others are air quench. It depends on the steel. I mainly use oil as it gives a better and more uniform quench because simply using water causes there to be a steam layer full of bubbles next to the blade when quenching. In order to keep that from happening, I would then make a salt water solution and warm it to 120 F and use it for quenching. It is just a lot easier to buy two gallons of veg. oil than to mess with the water salt and preheating.


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## SturgellatOSU

I heat treated mine today in a salt water solution at 75 degrees and then tempered it in the oven for an hour t 350, seemed alright until I saw how bad it warped.:sad: Will try tomorrow with 130 degree salt water on a virgin blade and see what happens. Also got 20+ concrete saw blades given to me.


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## BowTech07

How did it work?




SturgellatOSU said:


> I heat treated mine today in a salt water solution at 75 degrees and then tempered it in the oven for an hour t 350, seemed alright until I saw how bad it warped.:sad: Will try tomorrow with 130 degree salt water on a virgin blade and see what happens. Also got 20+ concrete saw blades given to me.


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## twisted1600

I want to thank you for the thread. Very nice work!
Had to pick up a new blade today....but before spending $130 for a new one I searched the shelves at the shop hoping to come up with one better than what was on the saw,and came up with a totally wasted blade..... I remembered your thread
I stayed a bit late and came up with this....a semi kukri with a tanto tip!?

Knowing little about knife building I'm gonna follow your instuctions here and see what I come up with.
The wood part is what scares me!


















P.s.
Boss you have to invest in a plas'...zips thru this stuff like butter:wink:


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## hivoltg

If the wood scares you, try using para cord and making a wrapped handle. That is what I have planned for my camp knife I'm making. This will be my first knife build

This thread has inspired a bunch of us here to try something new.


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## krieger

Awesome post !!! Thanks for sharing !!


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## Toby V

nywell said:


> This is a great post. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.


I will second that. Amazing work.


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## kulprit

Great post Rancid Crabtree, thanks for putting it together


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## Rancid Crabtree

The Kukri looks interesting. Post the finished pics as well.


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## sits in trees

Dude, you are amazing!!!!:darkbeer:


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## twisted1600

*RC, one more post to your thread*

Hopefully no one saw my kukri/tanto thing. I got to looking at it and said to myself what am I thinking!
So a little carving and......

It's a bit more useful.
















Any tips on a durable material for the handle?
Looks like this may end up being a brush knife.


----------



## hivoltg

I still think a paracord wrapped handle would be awesome on that blade!


----------



## Reverend

Canvas or Linen Micarta or....
Carbon Fiber


----------



## C Broad Arrow

Very cool....


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

Any wood will be fine. I like the colorful exotics. Micarta is a great choice if you can find some.


----------



## twisted1600

Last night I put the initial edge on the blade....thats a process that tricky and nerve racking as heck!!!!
What tool do you use to work your final edge and sharpen?
I've never been to good with a stone,can't seem to keep a consistnt angle.

Couple things I've learned already is to choose a piece of steel that has few if any serious scratchs and take care not to scratch the blade further.
Man trying to sand hardened steel sure works the elbows!

Where does a guy find exotic hardwoods?Definantly not HomeDepot.
Ebay?
Thanks.


----------



## twisted1600

Another Q.
Doing some sanding it seems as if one side of the blade is more difficult to remove what appears to be a grain structure pattern in the steel. Can this be?
Maybe some sort of surface hardening from use?

Maybe it 's just me


I haven't messed with the temper of the blade, I figured it's a good piece of Japan steel... are Makita blades made in Japan?...

In drilling the holes I went thru 2 brand new bits at 5 bucks a pop!
Drill press,light pressure the moment the bit stopped cutting I swapped it out for a fresh one.


----------



## tackscall

This is pretty much the best thread ever, really great work!


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

Twisted, go back and read my posts. I covered many of the questions you asked.


----------



## Todd_ID

OK Rancid, now you've got me hooked!

The first was a tiny skinner that I gave to a buddy, but he about cried when I gave it to him, so I guess I did ok on that one.










The question I have is on the second one. It's a 3" drop point that's super thick: 5/32" and 7/8" deep. I'm having troubles getting the edge ground and still keeping it looking good. I could put it on the Lansky and get the finished edge double sharp, but it wouldn't be even along the length of the bevel I'm trying to make on the grinder and combo belt/disc sander. Do you have any tips for keeping the bevel even when you're doing it on a thicker blade? This is an old Henkel cleaver that never got used, so I snuck it off for a "project". I think I went through about 50 Dremel cutting blades to get it cut out, and that was 5 of the reinforced ones too; then I softened it to red hot and let it cool in air, and I finished cutting it with one blade.


----------



## elk country rp

I love your knives and will try to build one at some time (after I squeeze out a few longbow/ selfbow projects), but in the mean time are you looking for any antlers? I have a set of 2x3 ******, and a set of 3x4 muley antlers along with a few misc elk sheds. I can't think of a better way to honor these bucks than to have them put into such beautiful work!


----------



## twisted1600

So RC how do you expect anyone to read when they can't get past the pictures?
Your work is bee you tee ful!

One more question.....
How do you do it?.
.
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..
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.
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How do you get away with.....
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..
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.
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. 
Doing this to your wifes pots and pans?

View attachment 430123




Thanks.


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## Todd_ID

ttt


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## smokey111

Rancid,

You do some great work, I have thought about trying to make my own knives for several years. After reading your post I am going to start looking for the saw blades to see what I can find.

Thanks for answering so many questions and having the pictures.

Steve


----------



## BORNTORUN

Great post. I am gonna try to make a filet knife because it looks like fun.-joe


----------



## johnboy1975

Rc great knives you are the man...One Question though I have heard that old files make good knives, I had never thought of using saw blades and I figured if someone would know it would be you.. Thanks for any and all advice.


----------



## ARCHERYSNOB

Great post,,and I read it a couple of times and have a couple of questions.

1. The pins looked like they they were sanded down after it was all glued together?

2. Did you glue the birch together before you sanded it. IT looks like you just had it compressed together?

3. What did you use to laminate the wood ,making it nice and shiny?

4. I am not familiar with the Blueing process,,can you explain how you do it.

5. How did you get the fancy imprints on the leather?

6. One picture has a picture of antler on endcap(pommel),was that hand painted? It looks like it is on a white background,,is the white background just the dry epoxy? 

Thanks again.. Super post


----------



## ARCHERYSNOB

Question 6- I looked closely and it is not epoxy,but just the antler stock at the end of the knife. It looks like the antler was painted on to the end after it was polished? or was it just sanded finely to give it that nice shine? thanks again.


----------



## HillJackJDS

*Another awesome build...or two...or six*

AGREED! I LOVED his bow building post...Now I see this! Great detail! Love following the pictures through a build.




buckmark23 said:


> We should start a Rancid Crabtree forum.
> 
> Once again Great Job.


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

ARCHERYSNOB said:


> Great post,,and I read it a couple of times and have a couple of questions.
> 
> 1. The pins looked like they they were sanded down after it was all glued together? *Yes, they were..... With a belt sander
> *
> 
> 2. Did you glue the birch together before you sanded it. IT looks like you just had it compressed together? *It is only compressed, Applying the tung oil fused the layers after the sanding.*
> 
> 3. What did you use to laminate the wood ,making it nice and shiny?
> *White glue and then tung oil.*
> 
> 4. I am not familiar with the Blueing process,,can you explain how you do it.
> *It is cold blueing. You can get it at walmart. Wipe it on. Wash with water and then oil.*
> 
> 5. How did you get the fancy imprints on the leather? *Leather tools bought at Tandy Leather. Find them online.*
> 
> 6. One picture has a picture of antler on endcap(pommel),was that hand painted? It looks like it is on a white background,,is the white background just the dry epoxy? *Yes, hand inked and then covered with a spray lacquer.*
> 
> Thanks again.. Super post


Answers in red.


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## Rancid Crabtree

Todd ID, I do all my bevels by hand. It is something you have to do and perfect a style. Practice.


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

johnboy1975 said:


> Rc great knives you are the man...One Question though I have heard that old files make good knives, I had never thought of using saw blades and I figured if someone would know it would be you.. Thanks for any and all advice.


Yes, Files made great knives but unless you soften (anneal) the steel, you will destroy the tools you use to shape the blade. Heat the file until it is cherry red and let it cool very slowly. A good way to do this is in a large coffee can full of charcoal briquettes. Fill the can with the coals, (use a can opener to cut vents in the bottom for air) get the coals glowing and place the file in the can of coals ( insert it right among the coals) Let it stay there until the file can he handles without gloves. 

Once you have shaped the file into a knife and drilled the holes in the handle for the pins and done the beveling, you can reheat the blade until a magnet will no longer cling to the metal. Then plunge the glowing blade in a 130F bath of salt water bobbing the blade up and down (not side to side) Then temper the blade in a toaster oven at 350 for one hour and let air cool. That will make a very hard blade.


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

Twisted1600, I find it easy to take the pans from her while she is at work. :wink:


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

elk country rp said:


> I love your knives and will try to build one at some time (after I squeeze out a few longbow/ selfbow projects), but in the mean time are you looking for any antlers? I have a set of 2x3 ******, and a set of 3x4 muley antlers along with a few misc elk sheds. I can't think of a better way to honor these bucks than to have them put into such beautiful work!


Thanks for the offer but I have quite a few antlers right now.


----------



## hivoltg

Trying to keep a great thread going.

i've never done any kind of metal work really amd it shows here in my first attempt. When it is finished, it will be my camp knife. I just thought I'd share this pic with ya'll. I still have a lot more sanding to do and I'm going all the work with hand tools. When completed, it will receive an OD paracord wrapped handle


----------



## SturgellatOSU

Hivoltg,

When you make a paracord handle soak the cord in hot water then put it on tight, when the water evaporates the string will shrink making a solid handle.:thumbs_up


----------



## hivoltg

Thanks for the tip!:wink:

As i said, the knife is still in a pretty raw form. Hopefully it turns out well enough to be a usable, working blade:embara:


----------



## SturgellatOSU

I spent 2 hours shaping a knife with a guthook the other day only to have it warp by using cold salt water. Use hot water then temper, just like Rancid described, I would actually test out a few different methods on the leftovers from the blank.


----------



## hivoltg

I'll be quenching mine in oil. It'll be a few weeks before I make any more progress. I'm leaving for vacation Friday!


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

hivoltg, what is the blade material in you camp knife?


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

While were on the subject, here are a few sheaths I finished over the weekend. *I didn't make the knives*, just the pants they wear. I'm finding sheath work as much (or more) fun than making the knives.


----------



## Supershark

Crabtree, you got some mad skills!  Those knives are beautiful! That is a skill quickly becoming too old for most to use or pay for.... Great Work!


----------



## hivoltg

Rancid Crabtree said:


> hivoltg, what is the blade material in you camp knife?


It is just some scrap steel that I had laying around. I started out by just tinkering and seeing if I could cut out a knife from the plate steel scrap. Next thing you know it started to take shape a little bit and I just decided to finish it out

It's no where near your quality but it should serve it's pupose well and will be handed down to my chld on day, along with my Dad's camp/cook set that he recieved from his uncle.


----------



## SturgellatOSU

Rancid Crabtree said:


> While were on the subject, here are a few sheaths I finished over the weekend. *I didn't make the knives*, just the pants they wear. I'm finding sheath work as much (or more) fun than making the knives.



This weekend I am going to pick up some leather and tools to sew it with, I need to make another wrist strap for my release too. With that I can make it seem like a good investment.


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

buying tools is always a good investment.


----------



## Ab_bow_hunter

Absoutly awsome work RC reading thru this thread has deffinately got me (as well as others I'm sure) thinking about attempting to make my own knife. I have been carving antler with my dremmel tool for a while now (small things pendants and buttons ect...) and had been thinking about making a knife handle. I stumbled accross this thread while actualy looking for somewhere to get a blade only to work around now I may try to do the whole thing. I found my father in law's stash of used circular saw blades and have drawn up what I want on paper just have a few questions for you tho....

should some excess material be left for grinding away while doing the bevel (i'm hoping not to ruin too many potential blades in getting the hang of this step) 

from the pics it looks like you put the gun blue on the filed pattern along the back of the knifes b4 you heat treated? 

well that it for now I'll most likely be back with more ?'s for you once I mess up a couple 
AB


----------



## twisted1600

Here's a bit of an update on my project.

About time for the epoxy.Ended up using plain old red oak for the scales.
View attachment 435959


View attachment 435960



Update to my update!
Used JB weld as the epoxy.Probably not the best choice,but I had some in the box so.....

Thank goodness I used brass screws,'cuz I got epoxy on the threads so now they're the pins
Just have to push and glue the center pin in,a little final sanding,stain(again) and seal the scales.
It should make a fair saddle knife.

For the life of me I can't get a good sharp edge on the blade,the curve is too radical for my sharpening abilities!
Think I'll have a pro put the final edge on it.
Definitely not my last attempt...maybe a more useful shape with finger guard next time


RC....
Any ideas,tips on a sheath?
Thanks.


----------



## hivoltg

WOW Twisted. nice work! I hope mine turns out half that good


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## twisted1600

hivoltg said:


> WOW Twisted. nice work! I hope mine turns out half that good


Well... it better with the awesome thread RC's got going here!
I think patients is the key....that and the proper tools!
I'm somewhat inpatient...kinda gotta get it done now or I lose interest sort.
You should have no problem bud!


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## Rancid Crabtree

Twisted, Because of the curve, I suggest you only sheath the blade only and NOT the handle as well. Make a sheath based on whether it will be worn or kept in a tool box.


----------



## Ab_bow_hunter

Hi RC did you miss my post right above Twisted's 

sweet knife btw twisted. how r you going to deal with the bolts sticking out thru the handle? remove the nut and grind it flush? good work hope my attempt turns out as well

AB


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## twisted1600

Rancid Crabtree said:


> Twisted, Because of the curve, I suggest you only sheath the blade only and NOT the handle as well. Make a sheath based on whether it will be worn or kept in a tool box.


It will probably go in my fanny pack or saddlebag.
Thanks, for the help Rc


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## twisted1600

Ab_bow_hunter said:


> Hi RC did you miss my post right above Twisted's
> 
> sweet knife btw twisted. how r you going to deal with the bolts sticking out thru the handle? remove the nut and grind it flush? good work hope my attempt turns out as well
> 
> AB


Thanks.
Yup grind em down(carefully)!

Follow Rc's tips here and it will!
Amazing what wet or dry sandpaper and some elbow grease will do!!!!


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## wmb

So here is my first Rancid Crabtree inspired knife as a work in progress. It is a trout knife to be used on future fishing adventures. The blade was an old file that I annealed using charcoal, the finger guard is from a piece of copper pipe, and the handle is from a small buck I shot a few years ago. 

I still need to heat treat and temper the blade and epoxy everything together. There are a few mistakes, but I will be the only one using it so who cares! Its the first of hopefully many to come.

RC for heat treating files, you said to use salt water at 130F. Could vegetable oil be used just as effectively? I know nothing about metals, but getting the right salt water solution, warming it to 130F at the same time I am heating the blade to non magnetic seems big to me. The oil just seems easier. But I would rather not warp or crack the blade and have to start over. I know nothing about proper quenching material with different types of metals however. What do you think?


----------



## JDS-1

"I cleaned up the blade again and added the bevel."

How do you do this step? I am trying to make one myself and trying to figure out what degree/angle to use to get the bevel. Thanks....


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## twisted1600

*Leather help!!!*

View attachment 437539


View attachment 437540


View attachment 437541


Well there it is.
The details not quite there..the more I sanded the guiltier I felt:sad: Other things I felt I should be doing.
I'll try another this winter.
Now for that sheath.....


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## sportsaholic07

*my first knife*

This is my work in progress for my first knife RC style


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## Jennings

Wow thanks for the info. Those knives are gorgeous. I now have a winter project!


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## SturgellatOSU

Gluing up the handle on my first one made out of a saw blade and I forgot to shape the front part of the handle so now I have to get all innovative.


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## Njanear

This is a great post. Keep the pics and info coming! :thumbs_up


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## slowen

*I'm impressed!*

One word:
Beautiful!

Make me a hunting knife for my son and I will pay you.

Slowen


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## Rancid Crabtree

These saw blade knives are looking great. Keep em comming.


----------



## Ab_bow_hunter

*step 1*

ok guys here's my final design (I'm one to draw and re-draw till I am completly satisfied) I have my cardboard stencil cut out and if it's any indication it feels very comfortable in the hand what do u guys think?
my future hunting knife.....


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## ciscokid

You are the man! Awesome work!


----------



## twisted1600

Ab_bow_hunter said:


> ok guys here's my final design (I'm one to draw and re-draw till I am completly satisfied) I have my cardboard stencil cut out and if it's any indication it feels very comfortable in the hand what do u guys think?
> my future hunting knife.....


That looks very interesting









View attachment 440207


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## wmb

*Finished at last!*

Assembled and Polished at last. This was a really fun project, Thanks RC!


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## waylonh

Hands down the best thread ever, on any forum............. I keep comming back to it week after week just to look at this fabulous work. AWESOME. Great inspiration, and keep it going!



PLEASE MORE PICTURES!


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## hivoltg

I gave up on my first knife. It just never did start looking right. I have a second one in the works right now and would like to find a piece of antler to make the handle out of. Any recommendations on where I can get a piece of antler for this project?


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## pew222

Nice knives you guys are making there. I have access to all of the materials except the leather for the sheath. Where is a good place to buy that from?


----------



## Mr. Black Magic

Reverend said:


> Canvas or Linen Micarta or....
> Carbon Fiber


On that note for you keeners, if you hit a hockey rink you can generally find all kinds of broken Carbon or Carbon Kevlar sticks for free. Cut up they have a million and one uses:wink:


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

pew222 said:


> Nice knives you guys are making there. I have access to all of the materials except the leather for the sheath. Where is a good place to buy that from?


Tandy leather. Look for them online.


----------



## MTNHunt

Awsome post! I love your knives. It is a hobby of mine to and it's nothing like using a knife that you make yourself to clean your game and carry. Pure satisfaction.

Once again, nice work.


----------



## hivoltg

Any recommendations on where to buy a piece of antler to make a handle from?


----------



## kaborkian

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MezIEKGk9T0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSyK67mqXEI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtkwvoYaus4

sharpening video


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## Ab_bow_hunter

bump for a great thread


----------



## Ab_bow_hunter

finaly decided to get to work on a knife for myself two weekends and I'd say about 12 hours all in and I'm ready for heat treat (sending it out to be done)
so here we go pix from start to finish 
(click on the pic to enlarge)
the drawing



profiled



first grind session 40-110 grit





second grind session 110-400 grit





final grind and hand finnish to 500 grit





pic of the file work along the spine of the handle


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## Ab_bow_hunter

bump bump bump


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## MTNHunt

hivoltg said:


> Any recommendations on where to buy a piece of antler to make a handle from?


Gray's Knives.....web site www.kynd.com, scroll down below the pictures of his handmade knives.


----------



## hivoltg

MTNHunt said:


> Gray's Knives.....web site www.kynd.com, scroll down below the pictures of his handmade knives.



I didn't see any knives on that webpage.


----------



## pomurchu

hivoltg said:


> I didn't see any knives on that webpage.


Try this http://www.kynd.com/~graydg/kniveslist4.html

Paul


----------



## Ich Bin

wow beautiful knives and workmanship.

Thanks for sharing.

E


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## tsihlis28

awesome job everyone. i have started one myself out of a saw blade and antler piece. I made a patch knife for muzzle loading.
I will try to post pictures soon.


----------



## tsihlis28

here is the picture.


----------



## Buckblood

Someone should ask Rancid about his latest knife for the Wisconsin Bowhunters. It's freakin awesome!!!! Rancid?


----------



## ghost1

One of the nicest post I have read in a long time. Very interesting. Beutiful work.


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## tsihlis28

Buckblood said:


> Someone should ask Rancid about his latest knife for the Wisconsin Bowhunters. It's freakin awesome!!!! Rancid?


Rancid has another whole Forum on that knife. Look up donated knife or something like that. Another great knife made by him!


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

Aw Shucks. It's in DIY area but here is the finished results.










I'm pleased with the look of the pins.














































I hope the future owner enjoys it.


----------



## madsammer

TTT, this is to good to loose


----------



## twisted1600

Rancid Crabtree said:


> Aw Shucks. It's in DIY area but here is the finished results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pleased with the look of the pins.
> 
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> I hope the future owner enjoys it.


How could they not?
THAT is a piece that ANYONE would be proud to own!

It's a shame your work's stuck over in the DIY corner.The whole forum must see your stuff!


----------



## Buckblood

I was the lucky recipient of one of Rancids knifes. Mine is so incredible, and I use it, as per the makers request. They are show pieces though. This one is especially awesome!

How will the knife be given away Rancid?

Someone is gonna be a lucky SOB!


----------



## Buckblood

Rancid Crabtree said:


> Aw Shucks. It's in DIY area but here is the finished results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pleased with the look of the pins.
> 
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Awesome, TTT


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## twisted1600

Buckblood said:


> I was the lucky recipient of one of Rancids knifes. Mine is so incredible, and I use it, as per the makers request. They are show pieces though. This one is especially awesome!
> 
> How will the knife be given away Rancid?
> 
> Someone is gonna be a lucky SOB!


Pictures.....pictures!!!!


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## Buckblood

twisted1600 said:


> Pictures.....pictures!!!!


----------



## hivoltg

WOW! I feel like I shouldn't even post my pics after seeing Rancid's knioves. I made this for my father-in-law. He loves to cook, so I made him a cooking knife. This is the first knife I've ever made. I used the tips in this thread to make it.
What do you think?


----------



## johnboy1975

hivoltg said:


> WOW! I feel like I shouldn't even post my pics after seeing Rancid's knioves. I made this for my father-in-law. He loves to cook, so I made him a cooking knife. This is the first knife I've ever made. I used the tips in this thread to make it.
> What do you think?


That looks like a really good knife. I would be proud to say that I made that knife, actually wish I could make a knife that good, Im still working on my first one. Nice knife...


----------



## twisted1600

Buckblood said:


>


 That's what it's all about, a sweet knive being put to very good use.
...and you actually used it...right on!
My son gave me a neat Muela Viper a couple years ago and I was so afraid to use it in the field.
I'm glad I did, it's cleaned a bull and two bucks so far.It's very satisfing using a well made knife... especially a gift!


----------



## twisted1600

hivoltg said:


> WOW! I feel like I shouldn't even post my pics after seeing Rancid's knioves. I made this for my father-in-law. He loves to cook, so I made him a cooking knife. This is the first knife I've ever made. I used the tips in this thread to make it.
> What do you think?


Well done!
Looks like it will last him a life time.


----------



## hivoltg

Thanks for the compliments guys. He really loves it. I learned a bunch doing this and will change a few things on my next one. This thread sure helped a ton!:darkbeer:


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

hivoltg said:


> WOW! I feel like I shouldn't even post my pics after seeing Rancid's knioves. I made this for my father-in-law. He loves to cook, so I made him a cooking knife. This is the first knife I've ever made. I used the tips in this thread to make it.
> What do you think?


I think it is a great knive and it's even better since it is a gifted knife.


----------



## gashogford

Can I get on your Christmas list?


----------



## hivoltg

Rancid Crabtree said:


> I think it is a great knive and it's even better since it is a gifted knife.


That means a lot, coming from the master.:darkbeer:

If I can figure out a better way to do the pins and a better pin material, I'll be headed in the right direction. My pins were made out of wood. It as a different king of wood than the handle material. This gave it a decent look IMO, but I like the metal pins. How do you do the final sanding and shaping of the handle when you use metal pins. It seems that it would be difficult to sand the same amount on the wood handle as the metal pins. What am I missing here?

Thanks for the help and more importantly, the compliments


----------



## tsihlis28

hey guys, 
who knows where I can find brass guards? and how easy is brass to beat into a shape that would resemble a guard if I was to get some brass stock?

thanks all


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

hivltg, Use soft metals like alum, brass, copper and use a small file to remove the pin material until you get down to the wood, A belt sander with a fine grit will help in this regard as well.


----------



## hivoltg

Thanks Rancid. I plan on trying a different type knife in the spring. I want to make a skinner and a sheath for it. I really enjoyed this project. Any pointers on where the best place is to find the pin material?


----------



## azone5

Awesome thread.

RC - you are a pure craftsman. Thanks for sharing some of your art with us. I love it!


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

hivoltg said:


> Thanks Rancid. I plan on trying a different type knife in the spring. I want to make a skinner and a sheath for it. I really enjoyed this project. Any pointers on where the best place is to find the pin material?



Harware stores and hobby shops.


----------



## tsihlis28

RC what if anything do you use for a finish on the stag handles?


----------



## PAstringking

WOW

im speachless


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

tsihlis28 said:


> RC what if anything do you use for a finish on the stag handles?


Nothing.


----------



## twisted1600

More....more!


----------



## VanillaKilla

My 1st homemade not to bad I guess. I have a question how high does every one go on the sand I went to 400 and wasn't very happy with it.


----------



## VanillaKilla

Does anyone else find themselves going broke on dremel cutting blades? Would a bandsaw work? I have a 9" but it doesn't cut well at all. Is the saw blade maybe too hard?


----------



## Zach_Harmon

Wow! Amazing job putting this together, this looks like a very complex procedure, but I bet you beg to differ. Nice work!


----------



## VanillaKilla

RC, are you of Finnish ancestry? I noticed the Puukko?


----------



## twisted1600

VanillaKilla said:


> Does anyone else find themselves going broke on dremel cutting blades? Would a bandsaw work? I have a 9" but it doesn't cut well at all. Is the saw blade maybe too hard?


A plas' cuts thru the stuff like butter:shade: 
It's sort of a specialty tool and a bit pricey.


----------



## hivoltg

VanillaKilla said:


> My 1st homemade not to bad I guess. I have a question how high does every one go on the sand I went to 400 and wasn't very happy with it.


Nice work. Looks like a functional little blade!

Congrats. You should be proud


----------



## twisted1600

VanillaKilla said:


> My 1st homemade not to bad I guess. I have a question how high does every one go on the sand I went to 400 and wasn't very happy with it.


That does look very functional and handy.
I was using 600gr. for most of my sanding....mostly 'cuz I had a bunch of it around.Then I tried a piece of 1000 or maybe it was 1200 gr. It makes for a nice finish until you happen to sand across the grain of the polish and then you have to start polishing again to remove the scratches!
600 grit was alright for my.


----------



## twisted1600

*Another try.*

So this darned thread got me wanting to try another blade.I'm hopefull this blade is more useful then my last one.
A few pictures:

































Not sure where I'm going with it from here.We'll see what pops out with a little shaping.


----------



## Flagstaff Bound

Rancid Crabtree said:


> While were on the subject, here are a few sheaths I finished over the weekend. *I didn't make the knives*, just the pants they wear. I'm finding sheath work as much (or more) fun than making the knives.


RC, What did you use for that white and red handle?


----------



## tsihlis28

shotblocker said:


> RC, What did you use for that white and red handle?


he didnt make those knifes. read what he wrote just above the pictures.


----------



## Reverend

*2nd Try!*

This is the second knife I've made. It is made out of AUS 6 steel. It is a drop point hunter with a mirror finish all around. The handle is California Buckeye Burl with a cape buffalo spacer. Additionally I added a red liner, mosaic pins and some file work on the blade for artistic value.


----------



## sdhunterman

Wow!!!


----------



## Tenpoint24

omg all of these knives r amazing cant wait to make my own!

Question- what stores have epoxy?


----------



## elk country rp

WOW! Rev, it's downright difficult to believe that's your 2nd knife! it's gorgeous!!!


----------



## Reverend

elk country rp said:


> WOW! Rev, it's downright difficult to believe that's your 2nd knife! it's gorgeous!!!


Thank you. You know, I'm sort of proud of it as it came out much much better than I expected. I guess every now and then things turn out that way...


----------



## gandyAR34

*oh boy*

Just read this thread and I am hooked. I have about 8-10 old blades at home from the table saw and didn't know what to do with them till now........I will post pics when I get started.

Thanks for the directions R.C.


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

Great looking knife Rev. Keep making more.


----------



## Rooster7

Great thread! Awesome job on those knives as well!


----------



## BowTech07

Beautiful knife Rev.


----------



## kzz1king

You guys got me revved up to try this. I cut one out of a fine tooth paneling blade. Got it shaped and I heated it and quenched in oil. It seemed soft before, easy to drill a hole in. After the tempering it seems harder but I can still drill a hole in it easy. Will placing it in the oven as instructed here make the metal harder or softer? Thanks


----------



## kzz1king

Well, I read some of this again and have come to some conclusions. My saw blade may not be that good of steel to begin with. Also I heated the steel to cherry but did not check with a magnet, maybe not hot enough?


----------



## sdhunterman

Holy Smokes this is tough. I got a saw blade and started cutting with the reinforced dremel cutters. It took me a couple hours to get the basic knife shape and 4 cutters. I have some grinding to get things smoothed out and the rest of the knife into shape. I am also sure that this stock needs to get softened up a bit.




Rancid,

Have you ever used High Speed Steel for one of these knives????


----------



## ArcheryBart

Rancid - absolutely beautiful knives!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## twisted1600

*As the world turns......*

......I sit and sand hardened steel?
Enough sanding.Hopefully it will turn out well enough to actually use!
Who needs a mirror polished blade to gut and skin a deer or elk?
Not me I'd just scatch it up:wink:


----------



## twisted1600

*I may be working in the wrong order.*

Spent a couple hours last night tring to put some sort of edge on this thing.
Seems to be the most difficult part of the whole project!
I've found you create a real problem if you don't keep your angle correct and centered on the blade with the initial grind:angry:
What do you guys use to sharpen your blades?


The more I get into these the more respect I have for the work RC does....WOW!
The patients he has is phenomenal!!!!!!


----------



## tlzimmerman

twisted1600 said:


> Spent a couple hours last night tring to put some sort of edge on this thing.
> Seems to be the most difficult part of the whole project!
> I've found you create a real problem if you don't keep your angle correct and centered on the blade with the initial grind:angry:
> What do you guys use to sharpen your blades?
> 
> 
> The more I get into these the more respect I have for the work RC does....WOW!
> The patients he has is phenomenal!!!!!!


I am way past respect for him, and bordering on awe.

To create my bevel I followed his instructions and use a bench grinder, I just used duct tape layers to give myself a spot on the rest to keep my angle consistent, then I used my gatco sharpening system from lansky to put the edge. Worked pretty good so far, wish I had a belt sander, thats my next investment, easier to clean them up than with a dremel and a orbital sander.


----------



## thwackaddict

*It is my understanding*



kzz1king said:


> Well, I read some of this again and have come to some conclusions. My saw blade may not be that good of steel to begin with. Also I heated the steel to cherry but did not check with a magnet, maybe not hot enough?


That you can soften steel by heating it and letting it cool slowly. Get it very hot and let it cool slowly in a large amount of hot sand.

You can also harden steel by heating it and cooling it down quickly. Heat it up good and cool it in water or oil.

Any more ideas on this?


----------



## wihunter402

WOW. I don't know what else to say. These knives look awesome. Thanks so much for the info.


----------



## plaid dad

Well this is my first try. The handle came off my 2000 Hoyt Aspen. I shoot off the riser, and have never used it. The large hole in the middle was there for the screws to attach the grip to the riser, I filled the hole by cutting off the top of two hoor hinge pins. Tell me what you think.






http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=513547


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## plaid dad

ttt


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## hivoltg

nice work. Fun ain't it?


----------



## plaid dad

Yes, fun and frustrating. I made four big mistakes on my first one. The knife is way to short, and way to thin or narrow to start with. Oh well, two more are already in the works.


----------



## sdhunterman

It would be sweet to have a jig to cut the bevel on. This would make it much easier!!!



I have the bevel on my knife and it is off center but it should still work. I also have a couple spots that I can't get sanded flat. SOON ENOUGH I WILL HAVE A WORKING KNIFE and then on to another knife to try to perfect it!!!


----------



## twisted1600

plaid dad said:


> Well this is my first try. The handle came off my 2000 Hoyt Aspen. I shoot off the riser, and have never used it. The large hole in the middle was there for the screws to attach the grip to the riser, I filled the hole by cutting off the top of two hoor hinge pins. Tell me what you think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=513547


Yep it's a Hoyt!

Very cool knife!:thumbs_up


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## Rancid Crabtree

I started another new knife and thought I show some of the steps involved in making it. I am donating this knife to the Horicon Marsh Bowmen. Each year, they hold a Wisconsin Bowhunters Association banquet with the proceeds going to the WBH. This one club donates tens of thousands of dollars to the WBH annually and this banquet is a big part of where those dollars come from. They invited me to attend this year's event but do not know about this knife. Since I can't sing for my supper, I thought I'd give in another way. 

I went back to the good folks at Two Finger Knife LLC and bought another forged Damascus Steel blank made from 1095 and 15N20 steels. 



















I also bought a set of Amboyna burl knife scales because of their beauty and the numerous, captivating swirls. 

Amboyna Burl wood is extracted from the jungles of Southeast Asia and often transported (at least initially) via elephant. It is a favored wood used by folks that make knife handles and pens or bowls. It starts out reddish in color and over time and exposure to light, it turns a warm brown/red. The photo below gives a false impression of the color and exaggerates the red.










I won't use just Amboyna for the handle. I want to dress up this handle with a few different woods.










The woods I'm using are 

1. South African, Bloodwood
2. South American, Cocobolo
3. Good old Wisconsin, Hard rock Maple
4. Sotheast Asian, Amboyna

This knife handle will have an impressive global pedigree










After laying out the pattern I wanted, I cut the pieces to size and rinsed 1, 2 and 4 in Acetone to remove the oils so the epoxy would give a better hold. Here they are waiting for the slow cure epoxy to do it's thing.










I am also making the pins from a variety of materials such as aluminum, brass, copper and maple. They will also be held together with epoxy. 




























Once all the components have time to cure, I will assemble the parts and shape the wood into what is hopefully a comfortable and attractive grip.

After the epoxy cured, I use the blade as the pattern to outline the shape of the handle and then cut it to size leaving a little extra material all the way around for cleanup. I also decided to add 1/16 thick Cocobolo spacers.










The spacers go against the metal of the handle and give another layer of color. Here it is assembled for a dry fit-up test.










Fast forward past sanding and applying 8 coats of super glue as the finish and this is what you have.




























I think the cocobolo spacers give a great look to the handle.










Since the center of the pins is maple, prior to applying the finish, I held a red Sharpie marker against the wood and let it soak up the red ink.










Fast forward a little more and I have a sheath.










Flash forward again and you see the display base I made from bubinga. I used the same red/brown stain that I used to die the leather for the sheath to make the wood a little more red. I added a small antler and a WBH lapel pin and a gloss lacquer finish. I hope this knife helps in their fund raising effort.


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## Zach_Harmon

wow. I might just have to give this a try.


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## hivoltg

Mr. Crabtree, sir , you are amazing. That is some high quality work right there! Any man would be proud to have that on his hip. I hope it helps with the fundraiser, as I'm sure it will bring a pretty penny


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## twisted1600

Masterfully done RC!

Wished I lived closer to take part in your fund raising adventures for the WBH!

Fantastic the amboyna burl turns out so well.....I'm waiting on a piece from a certain online auction place!

I read correctly..... 8 coat of super glue as the finish?:killpain:
Do you purchase bulk size and dip or......


Maybe someday you could create a little something for your :teeth: _ "friends" _ :teeth:  at Archery Talk and have a raffle or whatever is allowed!!!!


Thanks for the continued sharing....it helps with the mid-winter itch!


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## Rancid Crabtree

I just buy small tubes because I have yet to find a SG with a very long shelf life so I buy in small quantities. 8 coats used 2 small tubes at a cost of about $1.50. For the super glue, I will use fine steel wool and/or 600 grit sandpaper after every two coats. This gave me a very hard finish that was about as thick as two sheets of paper.


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## Buckblood

Another beauty , RC.


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## ShootToKill10

great post


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## Rancid Crabtree

The winner of the knife was the owner of one of the States biggest archery stores. I do not know how much money it raised for the event. Like some of the other items, they would announce it and then a person would walk around the room displaying the item to everybody in attendance and then a host of young gals would walk around and sell tickets until everybody had a chance to buy one. Then they would make a last call, gather all the tickets and draw a winner. There were about 350 folks in attendance for the event and it was a great time. Last year this event raised around $20,000 to the WBH. Over the past 13 years, this club has raised around $200,000. I was happy to be a very small part of their efforts. I will post some pictures when I get them uploaded.


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## briwayjones

Awesome work Rancid. What's the hardness of those saw blades you were using before tempering them compared to a quality high carbon knife you would buy? And how hard after tempering them? There not too brittle after tempering the already very hard saw blades?

When you temper them in the oven you just stick the knife blades by themselves in there? After you take them out of the oven do you just let them cool down naturally or do you quench them in something?


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## twisted1600

Rancid Crabtree said:


> I just buy small tubes because I have yet to find a SG with a very long shelf life so I buy in small quantities. 8 coats used 2 small tubes at a cost of about $1.50. For the super glue, I will use fine steel wool and/or 600 grit sandpaper after every two coats. This gave me a very hard finish that was about as thick as two sheets of paper.


X idea! Who would have thought,Super Glue?Thanks.



....also a master of Improvisation!


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## Rancid Crabtree

After receiving lots of questions on how to do a super glue finish on a knife handle I decided to show the steps. This is not to say that this is the only and proper way to use super glue as a finish. It's just the way I do it. Super glue is used on tropical woods that have oils that prevent most finishes from drying, curing or hardening. It can be used on any wood.

First of all, This is for small projects since it is not really cost effective for large projects. At the same time, there are those that use a super glue finish on pool cues, pens, bowls, chess pieces and a host of other projects.

I went out and bought a 4 pack of .07 Oz. tubes for $1.99. I bought the regular and not the gel but have heard of people using the gel with good results. 










Always read the warnings and understand the risks. I have chosen to ignore rule number four. I found rule number five a bit odd. I do want good results but I fail to see why it matters how me and the missus spend our free time or if we are good at it.

This glue is stinky but larger containers that are more expensive can be bought in a low odor version.










I used a scrap piece of Bubinga right off the saw. I did not sand it at all. I did this to show that super glue is gap filling and fills in the pores of the wood. I poured a small drop on the wood.










And spread it around with this brush.










I just spread it out until the piece is covered and never stop moving. It stays liquid for a short while.










And then hardens with a little less gloss. You can see the rough saw lines on the wood. but after I build up of a few coats, it will smooth over the bumps. *** DO NOT blow on it to dry it faster.










After two coats, I use 400 grit sandpaper to smooth out the brush marks and then wipe it with a clean cloth to remove the white dust.










On the back side of the piece I applied the same number of coats except on the last one, I blew on it to dry it faster and you can see the results. The water vapor in your breath makes the glue cloudy or foggy and you cant un-do the damage. You will have to sand it all off and start over. The same goes for touching the wet glue with your finger. The moisture in your skin will also turn the glue white.










After a few coats, you also get a build up on the tip of your brush.










Nail polish remover (Acetone) will remove the hardened glue. I wet a paper towel and set my finger in it.










I will also use some of that same 400 grit to clean of any glue left behind. Now the brush is clean.










Once hardened, I use 400 grit and 0000 steel wool to smooth the finish.










Super glue leaves a hard, crystal clear and water proof protective coating of acrylic plastic on the wood.










It can be buffed to a high sheen.










Give it a try the next time you are working on a small wood project or if making fishing jig heads or turkey calls. Work outside or in an area with good ventilation.


----------



## twisted1600

I've got an assortment of brushes like yours too!


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

Make sure to use the right sized brush for the job. I have a 10 pack in various sizes and find the two biggest ones to be pretty useless for small jobs. The two smallest ones really only work to clean ones nose and ears.


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## twisted1600

*Gettin' there.*

Not real burly but this amboyna is the sweetest wood I've ever worked with! It's almost like a hard rubber/plastic.
In the right hands I think you could do some wild stuff with it!
Imagine a cabinet or desk:wink: 








































Just waiting on some pin material. 


Thanks RC.:thumbs_up


----------



## twisted1600

The other side....


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

Now were talking. Good picks. Most folks supply us with blurry photos that don't do the project justice.


----------



## twisted1600

*One more time!*

Sir,would you happen to have a few pictures and some detailed words on putting together a sheath.


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

You want to be careful in how much you encorage me. I have been known to go on and on. Here is one style of sheath.

I started with 6 Oz. leather for the face. 










in order not to trap the finger guard (and the knife) in the sheath. I had to build up the area behind the guard. I used foam and tape.










I soaked the leather front and back.










then started massaging the leather over the knife.










It's kind of like working with a piece of balogna. The white thing a bone folder/creaser










When finished. I set it in the sun to dry.










When it dried and while I still had it on the form. I punched the lacing holes.










Then I cut it out and used it as a template to make the back of the sheath. For this I used 8 Oz. leather










To keep the leather from cracking during the bend, I got it wet.










Then I glued and sewed the belt loop in place.










I then added a deer head stamp to the face.










Next, I cut the pieces for the welt out of the scrap from the face and glued them in place.










Then I changed my mind and added a 2nd row of lacing holes To give it more strength.










After stitching, I trimmed all around for an even margin.










next, I wetted the edge and used the slicker to round it off.



















I want this sheath to have a deep rich color but also wanted to see some of the tan through the die so I diluted the stain with alcohol. 










Once thoroughly saturated, I let it sit for a few hours to dry.










To waterproof the leather and give it a nice sheen, I used mink oil and then warmed the sheath of the burner of the stove to make it soak in.










The knife and sheath are done.


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

And since we are at it. Here is another. :wink:

I used the knife to make the pattern for the sheath. I always make a pattern out of my favorite leather substitute.............. Cereal box paper board. This sheath will hold the knife by friction with a deep pocket that goes part way up the handle. It is a one piece with a folded belt loop.



















Seems like a good fit.










I then transfer the pattern to some creamy 8 Oz. Veg. tanned leather and cut it out with a razor knife.










The first step is tapering the end of the belt loop so I have less bulk down in the pocket of the sheath.










Then I crease and wet the leather to make the fold.










I hold everything in place for stitching with rubber cement.










Then punch the stitching holes with a forked punch.










I want to see the stitching so I am using a waxed white cord. I put a needle at each end of the cord and stitch back and forth around the hole pattern.










Before I fold the sheath in half, I add a welt made from 4 Oz. leather. It protects the stitching and adds a layer of leather thickness so the blade has room in the sheath.










Once cemented, I wet the leather with a small paint brush and stamp in a pattern along the edge of where the stitching will go.










And then punch the stitching holes.










Using the same white cord and double needle method, I join the two sides and the welt.










It's hard on the hands and a pliers is needed to pull the needle through but the end result looks pretty good.










With the stitching complete, I trim off the excess leather.










8 Oz. leather is pretty stiff but once wetted, It can be formed and molded like clay to the shape of the knife.










A little time at the end of a blow dryer, locks the shape into the leather.




























The next step is to give it a bit of color. I mixed, brown and Ox Blood and a little alcohol to get the reddish brown I was looking for.










Once all the alcohol is evaporated, I need to replace all the oils lost during the forming and dyeing process. I use warm neatsfoot oil and a cotton daubber. The oil also darkens the leather a bit more.










After sitting for a few hours wrapped in a paper towel, I warm the sheath with a blow dryer and apply a rub down of mink oil to further condition and water proof the leather. It turned out pretty good considering it's humble beginnings and will hopefully protect the knife better than it protected the cow that once wore it.


----------



## tsihlis28

Great Idea. I used the super glue on the last knife i made and WOW. its soo easy and what a great finish it gives. if you follow RC's directions it will come out awesomely.:thumbs_up


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## hivoltg

As always, nice work Rancid. You make it look too easy


----------



## Ab_bow_hunter

*#2 and #3*

I had some assorted steel laying around so decided to make a couple more blades 
first is a big ol' 10.5" OAL, 6.5" BL. out of 5160 



second is a small 440c EDC knife for my wife
6.5"oal 3"BL will finish with lime green and grape purple home made micarta (hopefully)


----------



## waylonb19

Can you guys PLEASE tell me how to get the glossy mirror shine to the blade. I am on my second knife and I cant get a mirror finish like RC and some others. What is the trick. How fine of sand paper do u use. My finest I have tryed is 240. Do I need to get some more fine of paper?


----------



## twisted1600

Ab_bow_hunter said:


> I had some assorted steel laying around so decided to make a couple more blades
> first is a big ol' 10.5" OAL, 6.5" BL. out of 5160
> 
> 
> 
> second is a small 440c EDC knife for my wife
> 6.5"oal 3"BL will finish with lime green and grape purple home made micarta (hopefully)


Very interesting knives.I like that 10.5,It looks very usefull:thumbs_up





waylonb19 said:


> Can you guys PLEASE tell me how to get the glossy mirror shine to the blade. I am on my second knife and I cant get a mirror finish like RC and some others. What is the trick. How fine of sand paper do u use. My finest I have tryed is 240. Do I need to get some more fine of paper?


I've had good luck with 600 gr.
I tried going down to 1200 on my first attempt,but found that even the slightest miss stroke when sanding just made more scratches and more work to get them out! A polishing wheel is a must....I think




Thank you RC for the tutorial(s) on sheath making!


----------



## VanillaKilla

*Fourth knife complete*




























Knife was cut from and old 10" table saw blade. I used a dremel, mapp gas torch, burner, belt and orbital sander and 6" wheel grinder to make it. I bought the buffalo scales from jantz supply.


----------



## tsihlis28

Here is my third attempt. I am pleased with my progress.
The finish is super glue and the pins are hand made. 
RC you have done a wonderful job laying out every step of knife building. 
Thank You


----------



## 2wheelz4me

Very Nice! :thumbs_up Couple questions. Did you make the blade? If so, out of what? Also, where did you get the material for your pins?


----------



## tsihlis28

i will start by saying, if you read this post start to finish you will find all you questions answered. 
but
the blade i did make. a friend of mine works with steel so he scored me a bunch of scraps from his shop. saw blades work wonderfully as well.

the pins were made out of model tubing, found at my local hobby shop.


----------



## HCH

I bookmarked this thread. I am impressed to say the least. You are quite talented and it has sparked my interest as to finding the time to get into making a couple for myself. Thanks for posting


----------



## mr_evans2u

:77: you do terrific work Rancid, those knives are beautiful!


----------



## Rancid Crabtree

I am impressed with all the knife work I am seeing here. Very well done by all.


----------



## Rhody Hunter

Wow those are awsome . i'm not worthy


----------



## therron258

how do you hammer the brass out? i have some 3/16" rod, will that work? im wanting to make an antler knife with brass finger guard..


----------



## baf1986

*cool knifes*

:first:


----------



## bowtech dually

Great job, looks like alot of fun !!

BD


----------



## jeffreymd2

ttt


----------



## bow111

finaly inspired me to build one. so far so good. post pics if i can figure out how to. thanks rancid for the easy to follow instructions .


----------



## waylonb19

My first 2


----------



## Horses&Hunting

Very awesome knives. I like how you recycled the the old saw blades. Beats throwing them away thats for sure. Keep up the good work.


----------



## Huaco

Back up to the top... I have an old saw blade out in the shed... Hmmm. Might have to break out the dremmel tonight!


----------



## Huaco

MAN... Did I score tonight or what! I got a box of old saw blades, most can be used, one can not. I think there were somewhere close to a dozen in there. The guy that gave them to me said, can you use an old saw mill blade? Sure can!!! This thing is HUGE! About 2.5 to 3 feet in diameter and about 3/16" thick!!! I figure I will chop this up into quadrants like RC did his big blade and that will make it MUCH more managable.


----------



## thebowhunter_20

*Lol*

Someone said it right when they said alot of folks will be grinding away on the saw blades...LOL. I was envisioning how I would do it before I was even done with the first knife....:teeth:


----------



## Huaco

One thing I don't seem to understand is: How does the pin location get transfered to the scales so at to accurately drill the holes through the scales?


----------



## tsihlis28

Huaco said:


> One thing I don't seem to understand is: How does the pin location get transfered to the scales so at to accurately drill the holes through the scales?


do just that. i tried other ways and lets just say i wasted some great wood. once you have your holes drilled in the blade just use that as a templet and drill through the blade into both peices of the scales!!


----------



## twisted1600

*Finally!*

Finished #2.


Second coat of Superglue!








Sheath template.








Stitching goodies.









Stitched with a double strand from used bow string.


----------



## twisted1600

A couple more....
























My steel to wood fitup is a B- or C grade.... but what the heck,she'll do in the brush! 

Finally I'll take it to a little place here in town to put a final edge on her.
Locals will know the name.
"Dave's Palouse Resharp".
They do an outstanding job on 'most all blades!


----------



## twisted1600

*Help I can't stop!!!!!*

No sooner then my second one was finished and.....

....a skinner is born!
















Handle roughed in.








After a bit o sanding.








The wood is called Bocote and as fun and smooth as the Amboyna was on the last one this stuff is not!
It's kinda "greasey",won't cut and fills up the paper real fast.Taking forever to contour the wood.




......as if I didn't make a big enough mess before these things.
You should see my living room floor! 
Oh,and the bathroom counter....superglue!
The wife sends her thanks


----------



## MOUNTIE1

RC, after the last two coats of super glue, do you still use 400-600 sandpaper and steel wool? Also how do you buff to the super shine? I am almost finished with mhy first attempt. This has been a blast. The only problem is with limited time do I shoot or work on knives?


----------



## MOUNTIE1

Okay, this is my first attempt.


----------



## twisted1600

MOUNTIE1 said:


> Okay, this is my first attempt.


That is a wicked sticker!!!!
I'm not RC....obviously,but:
On mine I started with new piece of 600gr.wet/dry,finished with a dull piece and got a fair shine rubbing the scales with nothing more than my fingers...sitting watching tv one night.





We were bonding!


----------



## The_Barber

*2:42 AM - couldn't stop reading*

Guys,

Its 2:42 a.m. now. I started reading this earlier, but I couldn't stop. RC's skill is unmatched. Thank you so much for posting this. You have inspired many, including me. Now I just need to get some tools and steel.

Keep up the good work everyone. I'm really impressed.

Sincerely,

The_Barber


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## Sage Omnia

"I cleaned up the blade again and added the bevel."


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## hartofthethumb

Well, I'm one more guy cutting up saw blades thanks to this thread and RC.

RC, you have some serious skill! I only hope I can make something half as nice as the stuff you have done. I love the laminated handle on the knife in post#8! I wanted to make that type of handle for my first knife when(if) I get it done, but no one sells veneer around here. I asked them at home depot, they do not have it and they said that they couldn't order me any either:angry: 

Anyway here is where I am so far with my first attempt. I started with an old saw blade. I sketched out what I wanted on paper first, then cut it out of cardboard to see what it felt like in hand. I refined the handle quite a bit from the sketch. Once the cardboard felt good, I traced it onto the blade and cut it out.

Here is the scetch and the cardboard, the DAH in the scetch is my dads initials. He died in Iraq in '04 and I've decided that if the knife turns out well it will carry his initials and so will all knifes to follow, if any:








Here is the knife so far, I have a long way to go, but things seem to be coming along well thus far.


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## twisted1600

hartofthethumb.
That has a very nice shape.
Hum.


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## MOUNTIE1

I just picked up a hint from a cabinet maker friend on polishing the wood. He told me to use a brown paper bag to rub the wood and give it a high gloss. I will have to try that later.


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## hartofthethumb

A little update on mine. 

I found some curly maple veneer this weekend at Woodcraft. They were probably 7" by 15" sheets give or take, I cut them and dyed some of them blue and some brown, the rest I left natural. I think these 3 colors should look good together.









I also spent some time getting the blade smoothed out a little bit and getting the bevel on it. I anealed the blade and drilled holes for the pins and drilled a bunch more for the epoxy, I wanted to drill more, but broke the bit I was using and said, enough is enough.


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## swamphunter1968

All I can say is WOW! Rancid my friend... that is some incredible work! I think it is a wonderful thing that you share the knowledge with fellow hunters and archers, so we can all try something new. A lot of people would be less than willing to give all the details and hints, and secrets away. It is nobel what you have done. Everyone here has made some incredible knives! This has to be the ONLY extended thread in any forum that I have read from beginning to end without skipping a single one. I have tried making knives as a kid, and had about the success a kid with no tools would have. :wink:
I am a woodworker though, and along with having a good supply of old saw blades... I have a good supply of tools, and woods. Also have at least some skill in making woodworking projects... who knows, maybe that could prove useful in making a handle! :shade:

Might just have a new project to try out!


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## Misfire

Wow.. 

There isn't much I can say that hasn't already been said. Your work is beautiful and truly inspiring.

I sat up late last night reading your knife and bow threads from front to back. That bow you built for your Son is absolutely awesome! 

Thank you for taking the time to post up your work and tutorials.


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## arrow flinger

*ttt*

ttt


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## hartofthethumb

Heres a couple of shots of my first one finished.

Doesn't compare to RC's knifes or the other guys knifes in this thread, but I'm happy with my first attempt.

















[/QUOTE]


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## twisted1600

hartofthethumb said:


> Heres a couple of shots of my first one finished.
> 
> Doesn't compare to RC's knifes or the other guys knifes in this thread, but I'm happy with my first attempt.


What? 
That's a sweety!
and your pins are beautiful!
You should be very proud!:thumbs_up


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## arrow flinger

R.C. 'bout time for a another knife...I know you've got one in the works...please show us. I learn something new on every one!:thumbs_up


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## popeye77

WOW, RC you are the man. 
Being new to this site, I just saw this thread.

Beautiful work.


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## GETMRUTN

Man, This is awesome. I know what I will be doing this weekend. This will be some XMAS gifts for my fellow hunters. I really like the Skinners and the boneing knives the best. I have tons of antlers to use for handles. I think this thread has to be the best. Nice work eveyone!!!


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## WIhoytarcher1

*A few questions...*

Wow everyones knives are awesome! I love the bottom knife in post 22! I did read through Rc's post and I just have a few questions if anyone could help me out!

1. What would be the easiest type of material to use for the pins?
2. Do you just glue the pins in once you get them to fit?
3. Do you have to heat treat the metal and if you dont what are the downfalls?
4. How do you get the sharp edge? Do you just take it to a grinder?

I know these are simple questions but Ive never worked with metal and havent even thought about doing this until now. If anyone could help I would appreciate it!


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## WIhoytarcher1

Another question...

When you attach the wood on each side of the blade for the handle do you epoxy the handles to the blade as well? Thanks again for any help!


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## twisted1600

WIhoytarcher1 said:


> Wow everyones knives are awesome! I love the bottom knife in post 22! I did read through Rc's post and I just have a few questions if anyone could help me out!
> 
> 1. What would be the easiest type of material to use for the pins?
> 2. Do you just glue the pins in once you get them to fit?
> 3. Do you have to heat treat the metal and if you dont what are the downfalls?
> 4. How do you get the sharp edge? Do you just take it to a grinder?
> 
> I know these are simple questions but Ive never worked with metal and havent even thought about doing this until now. If anyone could help I would appreciate it!


I'm no expert at knives.....still learning.
But...

1. brass.
2. I glue mine in with the epoxy when I glue the scales on.
3.I work the steel in it hardened start...it takes a bit more work and the edge work go's slow so as to not over heat the steel.
4. I 've been covering the blade with tape,except for the edge area and using a small handheld belt sander.The going is slow...to be carefull and precise.
I've found that tightly taping a full sheet of 600gr. to the counter makes an eccellent "stone" for a final edge.




WIhoytarcher1 said:


> Another question...
> 
> When you attach the wood on each side of the blade for the handle do you epoxy the handles to the blade as well? Thanks again for any help!


?
Yes?


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## twisted1600

Here's a couple pictures of that skinner I started a few months ago.


























The problem I'm running into is keeping the epoxy and super glue off the blade area.It's a real bear getting it off without scratching the blade


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## twisted1600

Another little hunter with a snap (finally forked out the ten bucks for a snap setter and some snaps)and the skinner with a much needed copper rivit in the sheath.

The little hunter got orange paduk for the scales...a very strange,some what light weight wood, it is orange/red thru and thru...sanding makes orange dust that stains your hands and clothes.


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## WIhoytarcher1

Thanks for the help I appreciate it! Those knives look awesome. One more question.. How do you get that mirror finish on a knife? Thanks again!


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## Grasshoppa

Very cool thread, I'm going to start one tomorrow. Impressive craftsmanship.


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## twisted1600

WIhoytarcher1 said:


> Thanks for the help I appreciate it! Those knives look awesome. One more question.. How do you get that mirror finish on a knife? Thanks again!


Sorry no one got back sooner!
I think RC works down to 600gr.wet/dry sand paper and then polishes with a polishing wheel.
I just work down to 600 gr. and call it good

It takes a bit of elbow grease!


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## Reverend

*Mirror Finish*

I am very new at this but this is how I got my mirror finish:
After your satisfied with your blade:
1. Smooth with 400 grit sandpaper.
2. Then take 600 grit sandpaper and sand in the opposite direction of the 400.
3. Do the same with 800, then 1000, then 1200, and finally 2000 grit sandpaper. It's important that with each new and finer paper that you go in the opposite direction. This will reveal if the previous sanding got all the deeper scratches off.
You'll be amazed at the results. 
I've also done polishing with a Dremel and jewelers rouge. Usually I'll do this after the 1200 grit. Very nice.


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## Reverend

*How about a folder...*

This is a kit knife designed by a knifemaker called Darrel Ralph. I had to do minor grinding, some sanding, file-work and of course the fitting of the scales. The scales are Spaulted Maple Burl, with a red liner. I lover red liners. The knife itself is a 4.5 in. drop point, liner lock, finished in 400 grit sand-paper
I still need a nice sheath for it. I'm thinking of a natural color sheath with some exotic overlay like alligator or similar...


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## twisted1600

Rev.,that is a sweet creation!
:thumbs_up:thumbs_up


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## amcardon

To those more talented than I out there:

I have a couple 10" non-carbide tipped blades that we are going to use for my Scouts to make some knives. Thing is, I've never done this before and want to get as much out of the saw blades as possible. Would somebody with the skillz be able to come up with a printable layout (obviously 2 pages) of a 10" blade and the most "typical" knives you could get out of a blade? Maybe toss in some skinners, drop point, etc... I really dont know, I just want to not waste anything and I royally suck at drawing out anything (except stick figures, I rock at those!). 

Thanks in advance; sorry if I'm just being a PITA!


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## twisted1600

A little update.
Got to put these two to use last night
The moment was the icing on the cake of my sons first bow kill!
Very happy with the way they preformed and they held a pretty good edge.
View attachment 639501


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## Gunner7800

*Great thread!!! How about some bolsters?*

Next time anybody makes a knife with bolsters, could you please include a more in depth tutorial on how you make them and attach them to the knife? I've received some instruction on this, but I do better with pictures.:wink:


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## Gunner7800

Another question for ya Rancid. How did you get the handle for the knife in post #6 capped? I can't tell from the pics if there are pins through the brass parts or not. Did you just epoxy the brass pieces together? I guess to me it seems like the cap should just slip right off?


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## Supershark

Answer me this.
Say I had a antler that I wanted to use for a handle... Sort of like the one on Aldo Rains knife in Inglorious *******s. I don't want a knife that big but the antler could do one of that size. How would I cut it down. But, still be able to leave the base intact?


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## Rancid Crabtree

I havent made a knife in a while but promised I would make and donate one for a fund raiser for a Cancer Hospice Center. 

*Blade:* 1/8" thick Damascus made from 1095 and 15N20 (2% nickel) steel. 3 3/4 blade length, 7 1/2 inch overall

*Handle:* Amboynia Burl, Maple Burl with Hard rock maple spacers and brass pins

*Sheath:* Hand cut, stitched and dyed, 8 Oz. Tooling leather

*Display stand:* Antler and walnut.


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## Supershark

Rancid Crabtree said:


> I havent made a knife in a while but promised I would make and donate one for a fund raiser for a Cancer Hospice Center.
> 
> *Blade:* 1/8" thick Damascus made from 1095 and 15N20 (2% nickel) steel. 3 3/4 blade length, 7 1/2 inch overall
> 
> *Handle:* Amboynia Burl, Maple Burl with Hard rock maple spacers and brass pins
> 
> *Sheath:* Hand cut, stitched and dyed, 8 Oz. Tooling leather
> 
> *Display stand:* Antler and walnut.


Rancid, May I ask where the blade came from?


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## Rancid Crabtree

I have been buying my Damascus blanks from two finger knife LLC from Idaho Falls Idaho. I have never been disappointed.


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## Supershark

I thought that the Damascus blade and the Antler handle would be nice. I am trying to get a picture together to send to you... I would like to hear some of your opinions on where to go with the antler...


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## killzone90

thats really cool


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## Rancid Crabtree

Supershark, page 1 of this thread has info on adding a blade to an antler handle.


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## twisted1600

I've never used this word....* "Gorgeous"*
But I believe it works here!

View attachment 641964




WOW!


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## Jmills224

After reading this thread for some time I decided to pull the trigger on a knife for my 13mo son. Its not as sweet as most of you guys knives but hopefully I can skin a deer then pass it on to my boy. Its a skinner just like RC's first post w/walnut handle.


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## hartofthethumb

Jmills224 said:


> After reading this thread for some time I decided to pull the trigger on a knife for my 13mo son. Its not as sweet as most of you guys knives but hopefully I can skin a deer then pass it on to my boy. Its a skinner just like RC's first post w/walnut handle.


That looks very nice, your son will be proud to have it when the time comes to hand it down. Great job!


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## Rancid Crabtree

I did not remove the the pictures from this thread. Photobucket has a free service and that is what I have been using. Due to the overwhelminly high viewership of my posts, I have exceeded the bandwidth for a free account. In order for the images to show up again, I have to pay $25 a year. I'm not a fan of paying out of pockett so that others can view my images but I just forked over the $25 because so many people are sending me messages complaining that my pictures are gone.

It's a blessing and a curse. The pictures are back for one year.


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## hurley0816

ttt, I know its hunting season, but i want some updates on some of your guys knives! Not to mention RC paid $25 for us to view his pics. thanks RC:darkbeer: Im going to get started on one for practice, after i am comfortable making them i am going to make one for my buddy as a wedding gift!


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## hurley0816

RC your work is beautiful! where you located in wisconsin? and do you have any tips on making one with a gut hook out of a saw blade?


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## madsammer

How thick are you making your blades?
I found sow table saw blades, but they are like 3-5/32 thick. I dont wanna make a knife and have it bend/ break.

I have 3 diff templates that I drew. I am hoping to stat soon

Thanks

R


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## hurley0816

started mine yesterday. I should have it sanded and glued up tonight, Ill post some pics when its done!


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## hurley0816

here she is!


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## RunsUpRiver

Knifemaking is a very rewarding pastime. All of these knives shown on this thread are very nice.

Thaks for all the photos and for taking the time to post.

Dean


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## Rancid Crabtree

I just finished the 2 knives I'm donating to the Horicon Marsh WBH fund Raiser. Both are Forged Damascus Steel made from 1095 and 15N20 steels. The larger is 6 3/8 long overall and the smaller is a neck knife with a broadhead shaped blade. It's overall length is 3 7/8. The handle is shaped like a bear claw.

Both handle have Hard rock Maple bow laminations as spacers. This is left over from the bow I built for my son. The handle scales are Cocobolo with brass pins. The handles are protected with 5 coats of super glue and buffed to a satin finish. The base is walnut and shed deer antler with a WBH medallion. I still need to make the sheaths.


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## Bravesfan

twisted1600 said:


> I've never used this word....* "Gorgeous"*
> But I believe it works here!
> 
> View attachment 641964
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WOW!


+1! Amazing work!!!


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## Rancid Crabtree

Finally got around to finishing the sheaths for these knives. I used 8 Oz. Tooling leather. It always starts with a cardboard template that I fit to the knife until I am happy with the shape. Leather is not cheap but cardboard is free. Then I transfer the pattern to the leather.










After folding the belt loop and attaching it with two brass rivets, I used a swivel knive to cut in an outline for a pattern I would be tooling into the leather.










Then I wet the leather so the tooling will remain after the leather dries.










I used a pear shaped shader to dimple the leather. Here's what it looks like after it dried.










Next, I wetted the fold line, added a welt and used rubber cement to join the welt to both halves of the fold. The welt protects the stitches from the knife blade. Then I punched the stitching holes.










After stitching, I trim the excess leather for an even outline. Then the sheath is soaked in water and fitted to the knife. Its like working with clay. The leather takes the shape and stays put while I use a hair dryer to dry the leather.










While it might be hard to see, I stained the inner pattern with a little darker red/brown stain than the rest of the sheath. After staining, I apply neatsfoot oil and after two days wrapped in a paper towel, I give it a good rub down with warned mink oil. Now it's nicely waterproofed and has a good sheen.



















The same is true for the neck knife sheath.



















Now everything is ready for the new owner at the Horicon Marsh event.


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## RunsUpRiver

Seems like a lot of people are using tons of dremel blades to cut each knife. RC- how many dremel blades do you go through on one knife blank?

Thanks!

Dean


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## Rancid Crabtree

As with any answer, "It depends" It depends on if you are using the cheap ones of the ones that have mesh reinforcing, it depends on how thick the blade is that your cutting out and how much contour. If your always turing around corners, the blades won't last as long. For a smallish knife out of a 10" table saw blade, it might take 5 or 6 cheap dremmel wheels.


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## twisted1600

That little skinner is perfect!
A true work of art!!!!









Thanks for renewing the photo bucket thing.
A rarety to get to see such talent in this day and age.


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## Ray.Klefstad

This is a great thread! Where has Rancid Crabtree been? I used to look forward to his posts - making knives, self bows, etc.

Ray


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## WindWalker

Whenever Rancid posts his "how to's" and pics of his self-made gear, the term "amazing" is foremost in thought. The man's ability and creativeness is jaw-dropping awesome.


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## Stanley

Thanks for the tutorial.


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## Rancid Crabtree

Ray.Klefstad said:


> This is a great thread! Where has Rancid Crabtree been? I used to look forward to his posts - making knives, self bows, etc.
> 
> Ray


I'm still here but swamped with all manner of things. I am on the Board of Directors for the Wisconsin Bowhunters Association and I am finding that my role on this board is consuming a greater portion of my time than I had imagined it would. Protecting and defending bowhunting in our state is a full time job (even though I already have a full time job).


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## Misfire

Awesome work!! 

I really like that little bear claw pattern. That is a good looking little knife. 

Thanks for the sheath tutorial. I have yet to tackle a sheath and really need a lesson or two on how to make them.

.


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## Reverend

*A few questions*

Hello Accomplished Knifemakers. I already have a grinder and two belt sanders, but I've been thinking of investing about $150 in some equipment for the knife shop. Would I be better off with a drill press or a band saw? 
I'm assuming that the band saw, with different blades will allow me to cut and shape both metal and handle materials. Am I right? Will it go through alot of blades cutting metal?


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## northwoodsbucks

This is one awesome thread, I found it a week ago and am on my third atempt. The first was on a 3 dollar saw blade and mostly just practice, never did finish it, the second turned out ok. The one I just started is my first real attempt, modeled after the sharp finger design. The problem I have is that I can not find any saw blades as thick as I want. The thickest one is 1/8 inch. That is fine for a small sharp finger but seems to thin for most hunting knives. What kind of blades do you use for a more heavy duty hunting knife and where do you find them?
Thanks for any help.


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## Rancid Crabtree

I made these knives for the 2010 WBH convention. This year I wanted to try doing a 2 knife set and I have been wanting to make an Ulu. The knife blade is made of 1/8" thick Damascus made from 1095 and 15N20 (2% nickel) steel. (with a great swirl pattern) The handle is osage with bloodwood spacers.




























The sheath is 8 Oz. Tooling leather with a dimpled pattern then hand stitched, stained and oiled.










The Ulu has a 3/6 thick 420 stainless steel blade and also has a osage and bloodwood handle as well as the WBH logo on both sides.




























The display base is oak and antler with a WBH medal.


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## twisted1600

Rancid Crabtree said:


> I'm still here but swamped with all manner of things. I am on the Board of Directors for the Wisconsin Bowhunters Association and I am finding that my role on this board is consuming a greater portion of my time than I had imagined it would. Protecting and defending bowhunting in our state is a full time job (even though I already have a full time job).


Too much work.....explains the reserved smile and the grey hair in your picture


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## twisted1600

Reverend said:


> Hello Accomplished Knifemakers. I already have a grinder and two belt sanders, but I've been thinking of investing about $150 in some equipment for the knife shop. Would I be better off with a drill press or a band saw?
> I'm assuming that the band saw, with different blades will allow me to cut and shape both metal and handle materials. Am I right? Will it go through alot of blades cutting metal?


Hardened steel will eat a blade up pretty quick.If your not carefull you'll lose a foot's worth of teeth in half a second and then it's just about useless.
And they are not cheap....even knowing the right(sales)person your out 40 to 60 bucks!
A *good* drill press is a worthwhile investment and will provide a lifetime of precise holes.


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## OntarioArch

Wow! these knives look absolutely awsome ,will give me something to try on a rainy day.


Great work 


OA


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## Grasshoppa

Great thread! I have been working on a knife ever since I read it. I work with a few millwrights that are accomplished knife makers also. I have to add that one of them (Dave) did the rough flat grind on this knife (or I should say fixed my flat grind) but the knife did shrink quite a bit since then. And Dan brought his etching machine in to etch my blade. other than that it was all me. I have a few more I'm working on and I'm much better at shaping now.


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## Grasshoppa

The handle is black walnut. (I'm very proud)










I started a very small knife, simple but with a purpose. It will be for quartering, getting into ball sockets.


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## Grizzly_Adams

rancid got a question for yah, do you have any thoughts on a multi (probly 2) knife sheath? This project is probly a long way off but, i want to try my hand at this and make a set for my self and probly a few of my hunting partners aswell that will have basically the whole game processing shebang all in 1 neat little package.


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## azscorpion

This kind of craftsmanship is absolutly amazing and very impressive!

Dummies like me do not have the artistic ability and will pay big $$ for these knives!


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## twisted1600

Nice work Grasshoppa.:thumbs_up


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## malcolm31

*couple of questions*

I was hoping I could ask you a few questions about making knives....
1. I am using high speed steel saw blades to make the knives. the knife blanks are heating up some when i cut them with my dremel and when i sharpen them on my grinding wheel. i wasn't planning on heat treating them. do you think heat treating would be necessary for holding a good edge? i have been dipping them in ice water while i work to cool them down. do you think this would help keep the blade from losing its hardness?
2. if heat treating is necessary for a good edge, what is the best way to heat treat them? I saw you post heating them up to 1500 degrees/nonmagnetic and then quenching them in oil. would this work with high-speed steel?
thanks for any assistance and for posting all of the information.


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