# Cam lean question



## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

So this is a pic of my top cam. I just put a bunch of twists in the yoke towards the ground and took some out of the one towrards the ceiling. Both cams are dead in line with the bowstring at full draw. Now my cam looks really crooked at rest. This cant be right can it?


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## Planopurist (Jan 10, 2016)

What’s it look like through paper? I’ve seen that much and it shot good, as well as some that shot bad. 


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

I haven’t shot it because I was concerned about the string being at such an angle to the cam. It was paper tuned before (with lots of cam lean) so I’m sure it would have a gnarly tear after all the twists in and out of those yoke cables.


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## Planopurist (Jan 10, 2016)

shredder4286 said:


> I haven’t shot it because I was concerned about the string being at such an angle to the cam.


It might be more dicey to let down, rather than shoot the arrow. 


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

If it’s risky in any situation I’m not comfortable with that. I guess I split the difference between lean at rest and lean at full draw?


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## Planopurist (Jan 10, 2016)

shredder4286 said:


> I haven’t shot it because I was concerned about the string being at such an angle to the cam.


It might be more dicey to let down, rather than shoot the arrow. 


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

I just found that my ata is 31 3/16” (only supposed to be 31 but it’s fairly close). The brace height is at 7 3/16, supposed to be 6 7/8. So, now I’ve taken too much out of the cables and grown the brace height out of spec? Someone please chime in


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

Draw length measures 3/4” long, ata long, Brace height long, this thing needs some twists somewhere. Is my only option to put strings at load at get them to measure at factory length? Plus some for break in?


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## CKCECB (Feb 22, 2020)

Adding twists to the cables will grow the brace height and grow the draw length.


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## CKCECB (Feb 22, 2020)

If your draw board is set up so your bow is horizontal then you may have been reading cam lean wrong because gravity will pull the draw board tackle will pull the string perpendicular, giving you a fall read.


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

It is horizontal! I’ll have to try making it vertical!


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## retrieverfishin (Oct 18, 2010)

Not sure which bow you have, but some general starting points in regards to tuning that will get you closer than you are now.

To set the top cam lean place an arrow on the cam on the cable side of the cam. Right side from behind for a right hand shooter. Arrow crossing by d loop is a good start. In your situation I would remove twists from the left side yoke. 

Your brace being high with axle to axle being low probably means your poundage is high. Personally I would use the buss cable to adjust max poundage of the bow. Twist to increase, untwist to decrease. 

Once poundage is set assuming this is a hybrid cam, adjust timing by using the control cable.

Recheck specs and fine tune once those steps are done.


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## CKCECB (Feb 22, 2020)

shredder4286 said:


> It is horizontal! I’ll have to try making it vertical!


So when you set up your draw board to vertical, make sure you hold the bow plumb (use the level in your sight or hold up a carpenter/mason level next to the limb pockets) when you check for cam lean. Go ahead and play around with moving the bow in an out of plumb and you will see the affect it has on cam lean reading.


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

Can’t believe I didn’t post specs, geesh. I’m shooting a mission switch at 28” dl, 48#


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

CKCECB said:


> So when you set up your draw board to vertical, make sure you hold the bow plumb (use the level in your sight or hold up a carpenter/mason level next to the limb pockets) when you check for cam lean. Go ahead and play around with moving the bow in an out of plumb and you will see the affect it has on cam lean reading.


thanks for the details, I’ll let you know what I find!


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## IAC (May 22, 2020)

shredder4286 said:


> Is my only option to put strings at load at get them to measure at factory length?


I don't think that this is your only option, but it might be a good option since you have been twisting and untwisting them and probably can't be sure of their current lengths. If you remove your string and cables from your bow and stretch them on a jig at 100lbs. with 1/4" posts you can pretty closely "recalibrate" them back to their original lengths and twist rates. Put them back on the bow at these lengths and check your ATA measurement and brace height with the limb bolts cranked. You can start retuning from there for cam lean, poundage, timing etc. This may help to reduce confusion and give you more confidence in the adjustments that you are making. Always make small adjustments, see how the bow responds and take your time. It also looks like the string builder and other contributors left you some good tips as well, best of luck and keep working at it. If you don't feel safe with it, bite the bullet and take it to a dealer, watch what they do and ask questions. It will cost you a little more money this time but you will have more knowledge as you work on the bow in the future and it will still be cheaper than blowing the bow up or going to the ER.


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## Planopurist (Jan 10, 2016)

I’d buy new strings/cables that would be in spec. 


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

shredder4286 said:


> So this is a pic of my top cam. I just put a bunch of twists in the yoke towards the ground and took some out of the one towrards the ceiling. Both cams are dead in line with the bowstring at full draw. Now my cam looks really crooked at rest. This cant be right can it?
> View attachment 7330616


YOke towards ground, and yoke towards ceiling. You have a top cam and you have a bottom cam.
If you have yoke legs on the top axle and bottom axle, then, the top cam has a left and right yoke leg.
The bottom cam has a left and right yoke leg.

SIMPLe test for the cam towards the ceiling, the TOP cam. Hold/pinch an arrow on the left side of the cam towards the ceiling. Like this.



Now, slide the arrow up or down, until the point of the arrow is at the same height as the center of the d-loop. Like this.



Take a photo of the point of the arrow, when you PINCH an arrow tight against a flat stop on the cam towards the ceiling.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

shredder4286 said:


> So this is a pic of my top cam. I just put a bunch of twists in the yoke towards the ground and took some out of the one towrards the ceiling. Both cams are dead in line with the bowstring at full draw. Now my cam looks really crooked at rest. This cant be right can it?
> View attachment 7330616


Instead of a photo of only the upper 6-inches of the bow part towards the ceiling,
how about a photo of the entire bow, so we can see the bow parts near the ceiling, so we can see the parts of the bow towards the floor, and everything in between on the bow. 

I rotated your photo, so the bottom visible part of the bowstring is vertical.










So, the limb pocket near the ceiling is level. I think I have your photo rotated so the riser is vertical.
If the photo rotation is correct, you have MUCH too MUCH twists added on the yoke towards the ceiling, the yoke leg on the left side. IF you pinch an arrow to the cam towards the ceiling,
on the left side of the cam on top of the bow, and slide the arrow so that the point is at the same height as the middle of your d-loop...

Your arrow point probably will not look like this.



Your arrow point will probably be over 1-inch to the RIGHT of the bowstring, cuz you have way way too many twists added to the yoke leg towards the ceiling, the leg on the left side.



THIS is much more reasonable, for the cam towards the ceiling. Yes, we want the left end of the axle towards the ceiling to be a tiny bit lower, than the right end of the axle towards the ceiling. You have much too many twists, on the left yoke leg (cam towards ceiling) so the left end of your top axle, is MUCH too low.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

The test for a reasonable amount of twists to add to the TOP axle, left side yoke leg
is to pinch an arrow to the left side of the top cam. Add or remove twists from the left side yoke leg,
top axle, until the arrow ruler looks like this.



When you have a reasonable amount of twists added to the LEFT side yoke leg, top axle,
your top cam will look more like this.


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

Ok, before I even get back to cam lean, I switched my drawboard to vertical. However, every time I draw the bow back, it wants to tilt the bottom 1/2 toward the wall. (Draw board is mounted plumb) I’m trying to make the bow plumb to check cam lean, but it just wants to tilt over🤨


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## CKCECB (Feb 22, 2020)

Just hold the bow plumb when you check for lean. I use the same hand that holds the arrow against the cam to plumb the bow.


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

I found out when I plumbed the bow that the bubble level on my sight was way off, then I searched forever to find that none of my Allen wrenches fit the screw on my sight. Go to brother in law’s to borrow Allen key, he lectures me about how he doesn’t believe in sight levels and it doesn’t matter 😵 I’m done 😂 I’ll have to go get some tiny Allen keys tomorrow


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

Ok so got the bubble level on the sight dialed in. My cam lean at full draw was pretty ugly😂 I took the twists back out of the LEFT SIDE YOKE, TOP CAM (thanks Alan, much better than toward Ceiling). I know the lighting sucks but it’s my basement. Looks much better both at brace and full draw. Look good to you all?


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

shredder4286 said:


> Ok, before I even get back to cam lean, I switched my drawboard to vertical. However, every time I draw the bow back, it wants to tilt the bottom 1/2 toward the wall. (Draw board is mounted plumb) I’m trying to make the bow plumb to check cam lean, but it just wants to tilt over🤨


Simple fix. I built my draw board, to ON PURPOSE, have the bottom half of the bow tilt towards the backbone. This is very convenient.







Threaded rod. Captured nut in the block of wood. Micro adjustable pusher, so you can dial in the tilt of the riser (left to right tilt) to perfectly plumb. You can compare the sideways tilt of the riser to a plumb bob hanging from the ceiling, depending on how anal you are.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

shredder4286 said:


> Ok so got the bubble level on the sight dialed in. My cam lean at full draw was pretty ugly😂 I took the twists back out of the LEFT SIDE YOKE, TOP CAM (thanks Alan, much better than toward Ceiling). I know the lighting sucks but it’s my basement. Looks much better both at brace and full draw. Look good to you all?


At full draw, the test is to see if the bowstring feeds STRAIGHT into the string groove around the top cam.
You can twist tie two arrows (only 1 is needed) to confirm that the yoke legs are dialed in correctly,
so that the bowstring and the two arrows, are all parallel (even gap of light).

Why the heck TWO arrows twisted tied to the cam, why attach an arrow to the LEFT of the bowstring,
and yet another arrow to the RIGHT of the bowstring?

Sigh. A fella claimed that only the LEFT side of the cam was taco shaped, but the RIGH side of the cam was dead flat.
Had to use TWO arrows to show the fella that you cannot have the LEFT face of the cam taco shaped (bent like a potato chip) and the RIGHT side of the cam dead flat. Sheesh.


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

Yeah I’m thinking mounting it to my concrete wall really limited what access I have to that area of the draw board. I’m thinking of mounting it to a free standing bench so I can get to it better


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

Ok I’ll try your twist tie method and report back! Thanks for your help


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

So, another feature for this latest draw board of mine...student was having trouble with written descriptions, so had to build a visual for him.

What's that bolt in the middle of the backbone? hehehehehehe.





Student wanted to check left handed AND right handed bows, and he wanted to mount the draw board on a wall, to take up less room. So, I mounted two winches, one on each end. Since this was a wall mount, I decided to make a hinge...bolt in the center. Cuz I have the pusher device, I can plumb the riser (zero left to right tilt), even when the draw board is pointing severely downhill. Just check limb pockets with a 24-inch or 36 inch level, for plumb (vertical). Can also use a plumb bob, for maximum accuracy. Now, you can dial in 3rd axis, for the world's largest, at full draw 3rd axis measuring device. 3rd axis is door hinge swing angle adjustment, for the scope housing (round ring), and you swing the door hinge towards the winch/d-loop or you swing the door hinge away from the winch/d-loop. Yes, if the scope housing is not square to the arrow, the sight bubble will lie to you, if the riser is tilted left or right.

When your bow is pointing severely downhill (or uphill), and the long 24-inch level or 36-inch level says the limb pockets are dead vertical....check if the sight bubble is also reading dead center, or not. If not, swing the scope housing towards or away from the d-loop (like opening or closing a door), to get the sight bubble to read dead center.



3rd axis is reasonable. Scope face is square to the arrow.



3rd axis is not reasonable, is way out of whack.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

shredder4286 said:


> Yeah I’m thinking mounting it to my concrete wall really limited what access I have to that area of the draw board. I’m thinking of mounting it to a free standing bench so I can get to it better




Yup, that will work too.


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## CKCECB (Feb 22, 2020)

Looks much better! I'm glad you got things figured out, and I hope you realize how simple this stuff is after you've done it a few times. Now don't get too wrapped up with cam lean, and remember that this is just a mechanical zero.


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

CKCECB said:


> Looks much better! I'm glad you got things figured out, and I hope you realize how simple this stuff is after you've done it a few times. Now don't get too wrapped up with cam lean, and remember that this is just a mechanical zero.


Thanks bud! So I maxed the limb bolts out, it’s pulling 67.2 # (70# bow). That seems correlated to the fact that my ata is long, brace height is long, draw length is long, and I’m 2.8# under max draw weight. I’m very confident now that my cables are back to where I started plus or minus a few 1/2 twists for cam lean/timing. Do I need to create more limb tension by adding twists or just shoot it as is?

I still gotta do the twist tie thing. Someone trusted me with care of 3 young humans! Will report back hooah 😅


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

There ya go!


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

shredder4286 said:


> There ya go!


PERFECT! Well done.


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

Thank you! Now, I shot through paper last night, and have a stubborn nock high tear. I see that the felt on my rest is showing damage from the vanes hitting it. I followed the directions on the qad website. The rest is a qad ultra rest hunter, and it’s moving from capture to full draw position in the last inch of the draw cycle. Thoughts?


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## Planopurist (Jan 10, 2016)

shredder4286 said:


> Now, I shot through paper last night, and have a stubborn nock high tear. I see that the felt on my rest is showing damage from the vanes hitting it.


Are you certain that the tear is from vane contact? In other words, do you get a nock high tear from a bare shaft as well? I’ve had that felt wear just from drawing the arrow across it. Eventually, it detaches going up the sides too. It sounds like the rest timing is appropriate, although I’ve only used the QAD HDX and MXT. 


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

shredder4286 said:


> Thank you! Now, I shot through paper last night, and have a stubborn nock high tear. I see that the felt on my rest is showing damage from the vanes hitting it. I followed the directions on the qad website. The rest is a qad ultra rest hunter, and it’s moving from capture to full draw position in the last inch of the draw cycle. Thoughts?


Check cam timing.
Confirm you have the draw stops in the matching hole to the size of draw length module.
Confirm that you have equal turns on the limb bolts, away from maximum.


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

About the draw stops and draw length- I couldn’t figure out how to get my DL to 28” with twists and whatnot, so I turned the draw stops back a 1/2” shorter so it’d fit me. If I move the draw stops back to the correct position, how do I get my bow to draw to the correct draw length?


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

shredder4286 said:


> About the draw stops and draw length- I couldn’t figure out how to get my DL to 28” with twists and whatnot, so I turned the draw stops back a 1/2” shorter so it’d fit me. If I move the draw stops back to the correct position, how do I get my bow to draw to the correct draw length?


Sigh.

Here you go.






STEP 1. LOOSEN bolt on the draw length module. Remove the bolt. Rotate module. Line up the hole for the 28 draw length (hole "C"), with the hole in the cam, insert the screw/bolt and tighten finger tight.









Cam Adjustment | Mission Archery By Mathews


Adjusting the draw length on your Mission bow has never been easier than with new FastFit Cam Technology.




missionarchery.com





For the Mission Switch, you want hole "C" in the diagram, also labeled hole "5" in the diagram. Third hole from the corner (pointy part of the cam).


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

shredder4286 said:


> About the draw stops and draw length- I couldn’t figure out how to get my DL to 28” with twists and whatnot, so I turned the draw stops back a 1/2” shorter so it’d fit me. If I move the draw stops back to the correct position, how do I get my bow to draw to the correct draw length?


Try the "28" draw length module hole. That is HOLE "C", also labeled hole #5 in the diagram. This is the outer row of holes near the outside edge of the cam.

Try the "27.5" draw length module hole. THAT is a hole in the 2nd row, between HOLE C and HOLE D. This hole is labeled hole #6 in the diagram.










Not sure if your Mission Switch has draw stops or not. You definitely have a rotating draw length module.

So, the ATA is supposed to be 31-inches. YOu have a TWIN cam bow, which means you have TWO yoke leg cables....a Y shaped cable, that attaches to the top axle (two legs),
and another Y shaped cable that attaches to the bottom axle (another two legs.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

To fix your ATA, if the ATA is too long, you shorten both cables, until you get the draw weight that makes you happy,
with limb bolts at maximum.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

To kill the NOCK HIGH tear...first, you gotta realize you have a double YOKE LEG bow...yoke legs attached to the top cam, and YOKE LEGS attached to the bottom cam. This is an old fashioned TWO cam bow.

So, you have to adjust ONE cable of your choice and add or remove twists from this ONE cable. Leave the other cable completely alone. You do NOT have a binary cam bow, where you have ZERO yoke legs at all.

You have an OLD SCHOOL TWO cam bow, with double yoke legs. So, that means, EVEN SYNC (even cam timing) ONLY works on a binary cam bow, which you do not have. THat means you are gonna feel a DOUBLE BUMP, to get to full draw, to get your bullet hole.

So, I can only find a good photo of the BOTTOM cam of a Mission Switch. Press your bow to get the string and all the cables relaxed. Goto the bottom cam.

So, on the bottom cam, you will find the bowstring end loop. LEAVE it alone.
So, on the bottom cam, you will find the two yoke leg end loops. LEAVE these two yoke leg end loops alone.

So, that leaves just ONE more end loop. Yup, you are gonna work that end loop, and ONLY that end loop.
You are gonna leave all the end loops on the TOP CAM alone.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

So, how do I kill a stubborn nock high tear, on a 2 cam bow, with 2 sets of yoke legs...set of yoke legs that goto the top axle, and a set of yoke legs that goto the bottom axle?

Well, you gotta figure out if ADDing or REMOVING twists from this ONE end loop, makes your stubborn nock high tear, better. PIck a direction. ADD 1 full twist. Write this down a sheet of paper, so you don't get lost.
Shoot thru the paper tuner. CAn't tell if things are better or worse.

K. Go back to the bow press, and goto that SAME single end loop, all by itself, on the perimeter of the cam, and now we are gonna DOUBLE the last adjustment. ADD two complete twists, so you are now at PLUS three twists.
Go shoot thru the paper tuner. Did the STUBBORN nock tear get better or worse? IF the nock high tear is now CRAZY high, we went the wrong direction.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

So, we are gonna remove the three twists you added to that ONE cable.










Now, we are back to the beginning. So, now we REMOVE 1 twist. Write down on the sheet of paper, you are at NEGATIVE 1 twist. Go shoot thru the paper tuner. CAn't see any change.

K.

Goto the bow press and REMOVE an extra two twists, and write on the piece of paper, you are at NEGATIVE 3 twists.
Go shoot thru the paper tuner. Holy COW batman!!! Now, I have a mild nock LOW tear! What do I do?

Go back to the bow press and ADD 1 twist. We are gonna correct the correction, in the other direction.
Shoot thru the paper tuner. BUT, the WALL feels MUSHY!!!!

Welcome to an old school TWO cam bow, with TWO sets of yoke legs. To get a TWO cam bow, with two sets of yoke legs, to get to a bullet hole, you MUST "time" the cam MUSHY, meaning you will feel the FIRST bump, cuz ONE cam has reached full draw, but you must CONTINUE pulling, until you feel the SECOND bump, which means the second cam has now also reached full draw.

This can't be right. I heard on the internet that the wall is supposed to be ROCK SOLID.
Yup, on the binary cam bows, which cost much more $$$.
The hybrid cam bows, with only ONE buss cable (yoke leg cable) will have a more solid wall.

Keep tuning that ONE cable, by the full twist or half twist, until you get your bullet hole.


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

Ok I’ll get back to you!


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

Ok finally got to take enough time to sort this out. After adding and subtracting twists, reading and re-reading the nuts and bolts manual, it’s been an interesting experience. The closest I could get the bow to spec (limb bolts maxed, 70# bow) by twisting my cables is: 69.6#, 28 1/2” draw length (DL set at 28” on cams) brace height is still 7 1/8”, ata is now 31 1/16”, and top cam hitting slightly before bottom cam. It was hard to get the “stars to align” because every time I’d get the draw length close to 28”, it was pulling 70.8#, or only 69#, and it seemed like the bow changed A LOT from one twist. So I ended up with the weight as close as possible but my DL is a 1/2” long. So where to I go from here? Just put the strings and cables under load and verify length?


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## CKCECB (Feb 22, 2020)

I'm not familiar with your Mission Switch, but on a many of the super adjustable bows the maximum advertised poundage is often times only for the maximum advertised draw length.

I wouldn't get too hung up about the numbers and trying to hit specs dead nuts. Draw weight scales have certain tolerances.

Take a step back and figure out if you want your sport to be getting the equipment to hit a certain spec, or getting your equipment to perform. Don't feel alone, I have to ask myself this all the time because of my engineering background (sometimes I have more fun tinkering then shooting which isn't the point).


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

That’s me too man. So Really my draw length is more critical than weight and don’t obsess. I hear ya😎


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

shredder4286 said:


> That’s me too man. So Really my draw length is more critical than weight and don’t obsess. I hear ya😎


You can fine tune draw weight, with the bowstring. If you want a bit MORE draw weight, you can untwist the bowstring at both ends. REMOVING twists, makes for a longer bowstring. LONGER bowstring, allows MORE cam rotation, more cam windup, so you bend the limbs MORE with a longer bowstring, and the draw weight goes up.

Opposite is also true. ADD twists to both ends of the bowstring, a shorter bowstring, means less windup for the cams, and less bending on the limbs. So, SHORTER bowstring, will reduce draw weight. LONGER or SHORTER bowstring, does not change draw length that much, if we are talking 1 or 2 or 3 twists, cuz changing the string length by 1 or 2 or 3 twists, is mostly a rotation change on the cam, and not much change for draw length (how far you pull the d-loop away from the riser.

So, if you are looking for a 0.8# reduction in draw weight, ADD twists to the bowstring.
So, if you are looking to GAIN 1.0# in draw weight, REMOVE twists from the bowstring.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

shredder4286 said:


> That’s me too man. So Really my draw length is more critical than weight and don’t obsess. I hear ya😎


Tweak twists in the bowstring, to get whatever draw weight makes you happy.
BUT, when I get the EXACT draw weight that makes me happy, then, the draw length is like 0.125 inches too long?
Well, if the draw is measuring 1/8th inch too long, simple fix.

But, I just twisted or untwisted the bowstring, to make the PERFECT draw weight?
If I mess with the string again, to lose 1/8th inch draw length, it will mess up my PERFECT draw weight!!!!

Thicken the grip. Add grip tape, use a 3/4-inch wide cardboard shim, and tape the cardboard shim to the grip area.
Wrap with hockey tape, wrap with masking tape, any kind of tape, and reduce the brace height 1/8th inch.
When brace is 1/8th inch less, then power stroke is 1/8th inch less, and by definition,
the draw will also be 1/8th inch less, and now you can fine tune the draw length to ANY amount you want,
and still....

keep the PERFECT draw weight, that makes you happy.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

shredder4286 said:


> That’s me too man. So Really my draw length is more critical than weight and don’t obsess. I hear ya😎


ATA really does not matter.
The draw weight that makes you happy is what counts.

Brace really does not matter.
The draw length that gives you BETTER than ever before group size results, is what matters.
Thicken a grip, to reduce brace height by any amount (1/16th, 1/8th) and you also reduce the draw length by exactly the same amount.


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

nuts&bolts said:


> ATA really does not matter.
> The draw weight that makes you happy is what counts.
> 
> Brace really does not matter.
> ...


Thanks for the responses guys  I’m getting this figured out with all the info here. I wanna get this bow ready to do some indoor shooting soon


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

I gotta quit messing with this thing. I swear to baby Jesus I put a half twist into 1 cam and my draw length changed a 1/2”. Advancing or ******ing cams with logic or accuracy is a pipe dream fairy tail. I’ve lost it!🤯


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

I think this bow has a demon possession


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

Of course, I didn’t stop. 😅 I ended up getting rest attached and re timed, but looks like I’m getting contact bad. Major wear on vanes and it’s tearing off the felt on the launcher. I installed the rest cord as per the qad instructions, ensuring the rest was moving from capture to full draw within the last inch. Of course my cam timing changed every time I tweaked the rest cord (football clamp hitting other cable) This is really killing the fun for me🤬. I just wanna shoot the dang thing


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)




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## CKCECB (Feb 22, 2020)

I feel for you man.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

shredder4286 said:


> I gotta quit messing with this thing. I swear to baby Jesus I put a half twist into 1 cam and my draw length changed a 1/2”. Advancing or ******ing cams with logic or accuracy is a pipe dream fairy tail. I’ve lost it!🤯


Time for a form photo. 1/2 twist will not change the draw by half an inch.
Also take a photo of the top cam, both sides.
Also take a photo of the bottom cam, both sides.
Take another photo, entire bow left side.
Take another photo, entire bow right side.


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## shredder4286 (Apr 23, 2012)

nuts&bolts said:


> Time for a form photo. 1/2 twist will not change the draw by half an inch.
> Also take a photo of the top cam, both sides.
> Also take a photo of the bottom cam, both sides.
> Take another photo, entire bow left side.
> Take another photo, entire bow right side.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Drop the draw length 1-full inch shorter.
Try to get arrow parallel to top of door, for next photo.










The blazer vanes are 2-inches long. Need backbone 90 degrees to the arrow,
so when pointing an arrow downhill, you need the left armpit FORWARDS of the left ankle.

So, in the photo on the left, I rotated your backbone forwards.
Lined up your neck bones to your backbone in the photo on the left. Yellow triangle
is the string angle, with the current draw size. When you stand correctly for pointing the arrow downhill, the string runs 1-inch behind the tip of nose. See red triangle.

So, drop draw length 1-full inch shorter
and redo the photo as many times as you need to, until the arrow is parallel to the floor and ceiling


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