# Best bow tuning tip



## WVaBuckHunter (Sep 30, 2010)

Glad you are happy with your tuning methods, as that's what it's all about. Finding the way that YOU like to tune your bow. Although I disagree with some of your statements, you have the method of tuning that you like to use and it works for you.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

WVaBuckHunter said:


> Glad you are happy with your tuning methods, as that's what it's all about. Finding the way that YOU like to tune your bow. Although I disagree with some of your statements, you have the method of tuning that you like to use and it works for you.


Well, works for not just me, but others as well. Worked at a box store once shortly before archery season. Some 150 bows needing checked over and tuned 3 of us had them done in handful of days. I didn't hear anyone complain. 
Going on 5 years working at a archery shop only and customers shoot their bows as far back as 30 yards before they leave. All seem happy.
People who want to go to extremes, fine, just don't shove it off on newbies....

I ain't the first to pen "Don't drive yourself nuts." More than a couple in Gen Dis.


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## WVaBuckHunter (Sep 30, 2010)

A poorly tuned bow will still shoot decent groups for the average archer. Most people will never know that the bow could be made better. Most people go to a box store or bow shop and buy a new bow, and leave there thinking that this new bow is just perfect. They don't even know that the cams could be out of synch, dl doesn't fit them correctly, that the bow has poor arrow flight, etc.

I know that YOU wouldn't let a bow leave your shop like described above, but I see it all the time. That said, a bow will still shoot groups with the cams out of synch, with somewhat poor arrow flight, etc. you can take a bow from the box eyeball the rest, set the nock point level or an 1/8" high, bolt the rest of the accessories on, and send them out the door and most people would never know the difference between what they have and a properly tuned bow. 

So, I believe that you have different levels of tuning for different levels and styles of archery. A target shooter may not care the least bit about paper tuning and may go straight to group tinning. A bow hunter may want the same poi for field points and broadheads, so they paper tune tune or bare shaft tune or broad head tune, or all 3. Some want the bow as fast as it can be, so we plot and manipulate the dfc, which also most times makes the draw cycle feel a little better.

It just depends on how perfect you want the bow, and for some, what type of archery that you are into. Personally, the perfectionist in me, makes me tune all of my personal bows the same regulardless what they are for.

I do know what you mean though about newbies getting overwhelmed. Things can get complicated when reading posts from good tuners who really know what they are doing. But, I don't necessarily think that the information should be withheld either, because that gives everybody food for thought when learning.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Yes, I do things different for different needs. I once set up a target bow from scratch. Being it was for indoor spots much was set straight forward, nothing fancy. For me I know how the pin sets to the left of the string and I knew the pin right at 3 3/8" above the shaft of the arrow would make things close. I was on the target with the first shot, near the bull's eye with the second shot. Adjustment made and in the bull's eye. Couple of fine sighting adjustments had me staying close and in the X ring. Beings I had started I finished with a 298 and 48 Xs. Of course I did some piddling, but the bow never saw paper tuning or any tuning until the following spring. I then gave it a Walk Back session and did as well as ever for 3D.

My hunting bow was set much the same as my target bow. Using mechanical broadheads I never worried about tuning. However, given a few fixed broadheads to try and give review of my hunting bow was dead on out to the longest distance of 40 yards. Some call it luck, but more that a person gets use to doing things that work for them and things fall together. Perhaps that little "tinker" that becomes automatic, without thought.

My only goal is for people to shoot their bow and have fun. Like you said, a bow doesn't need perfect tune to shoot quite well.


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## threetoe (May 13, 2011)

Sonny;

You forgot Easton's Step #1 in it's Tuning Guide.
"Successful tuning can only be achieved by using a
properly spined arrow shaft."

I have tried to tune to a .650 spine in a bow that OT-2 says needs a .900 spine.
NO GO !! NO WAY.
It'll shoot OK, but not like it's capable.
Tune to the correct spine and watch your 3-d scores go up.

Most archers are happy with mediocre.
I am NOT happy with mediocre and neither are you.
That is why we TRY to educate those who actually want to be a better archer.

My bow is a tack driver.

It is PERFECTLY TUNED and digests anything I put to it. Mechanical, Fixed, Field, Nibbs you name it.
My Form is solid and totally repeatable.
I am a pretty good Archer and my shooting speaks for itself.

No, I will not accept mediocre in anything I do.

Bill


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

I named a few tuning procedures. Wasn't forgetting anything, just too many to list.

Common sense; Know draw weight, know length and build of arrow, arrow charts work pretty darned good.

And then there are those who shoot arrows that are deemed weak and drill all day long.

In the ball park of spine, just where do you start and stop. When first setting up my HTA HT3 arrows I went with a 80 gr glue-in. It shot great, but I tried heavier, all the way up to a 47 gr insert and 145 gr field point (actual weight 144) for a weight spread of 111 grs.
List of point weights; 80 gr glue-in, 47 gr insert and 85 gr point, 47 gr insert and 100 gr point, 47 gr insert and 125 gr point a and 47 gr insert and 145 gr point. Basic arrow with 80 gr glue-in began at 322 grs (280 fps.) and heaviest weighed 433 grs.
All point weights would stay in the bull's eye and lots of Xs from 20 to 30 yards. No windage adjustment had to be made, only elevation was adjusted.

Bow used; Martin Shadowcat set to just under 56 pounds and 28 1/4" draw. Using a CXL Pro 150 with 90 gr glue-in point, 282 grs total. Verified by Carbon Express tech my arrow was said too weak of spine. One coming on ASA Pro on the national circuit used the CXL Pro 150 a couple of years ago, longer than mine, way heavier of point, longer draw and more poundage, but he did pretty good, staying close in the top 10 and a couple of 3rds. I still have 2 of his 100 gr plus points somewhere, 130 gr if I remember correctly. If mine are too weak, then his is or was wet spaghetti.

When competing in Outdoor target or Field I do French tune. Normally, just ordinary set up and Walk Back tune.


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

charts and programs arent always right for arrow spine also, its all about shooting the bow and working with the setup. you have to have more than just one thing correct to get a bow to tune, its a compilation of a few things along with the person holding the bow.

I think sonny wasnt trying to debate but merely post up tuning process' and how theve worked for him, not everyone does the same things so its kinda a melting pot of most all that are used to date.


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## threetoe (May 13, 2011)

Sonny is my friend. I need to keep him in line. :embara: LOL

Besides, that quote isn't mine. It's Easton's. (But what do they know?) LOL

Bill


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

threetoe said:


> Sonny is my friend. I need to keep him in line. :embara: LOL
> 
> Besides, that quote isn't mine. It's Easton's. (But what do they know?) LOL
> 
> Bill


Keep me in line? If my wife can't, you ain't gotta prayer 

Ahhh, Easton. Not just two days ago another gentleman pointed out Easton's Tuning guide wasn't up to par, least wise arrows of differing spine than suggested were head and shoulders above what was supposed to be ideal. Good arrows, no different than reasonably tuned bows, comes from proof in the shooting. And I've had what I call great success.

I returned to archery during the last month of 1998.
Market deployment being, Easton and Carbon Express, I then chose Easton Super Slam XX78s of 2413 persuasion.
Only 3D had me go to the "speed" arrow and Carbon Express 300 Game Trackers were the choice. I use the older CX300s for hunting, picking a few dozen on sale due to Carbon Express's "weight forward" technology taking over - proved time again nothing but BS and actually only increasing weight far beyond the parent. I example the Maxima hunter 250 now weighing that of the original CX300. 
Getting deeper in the 3D game I switched to 300 Selects. These turned to be the finest weight arrows and most accurate arrows.
Taking advantage of the overdraw built riser of my 2000 Hoyt UltraTec I went to shorter CX 200s that were outstanding for both 3D and Indoor target. Weight forward technology BS; Needing some CX200 to match what I had I bought the hunter series and promptly stripped the camo off. Presto! Magic! A matched dozen that would rival the Selects.

With CXLs hitting the market I was standing in line. CXL 250, CXL2-250, CXL 250 SS and then changed to CXL 150 SS and then lastly the CXL Pro 150s. All these proved outstanding for accuracy for all archery games. 

I did a brief attempt of Victories in 2008 or 2009. All the log X Killers I got were bought by people who waved too much of the green stuff.
I also had a brief return to years past, dragging out a older Pearson target bow of 37 pounds maxed out (you could special order back then). Factory built Beman Jr Hunters with 90 gr field points worked just great.

Of most recent I added Harvest Time Archery HT3s. Straightness was not that of what Bart claimed. My .001" flopped around something awful. I took over 2 dozen, factory checked later by Muddy Outdoors, to get one dozen good arrows and they are good, really good.
Muddy Outdoors in full swing I have gone with their Virtue HT3 in 400 spine and .001" for straightness. The are quite outstanding, straight as advertised, better finish and drill most agreeably. With either of these if I can't hammer the X ring of a 5 spot target from 30 yards, it's me, not the bow or arrow. 

I have been interested in other arrows, but not overly and mostly of the Gold Tip 22s. Why change when it ain't broke?

So today; Hoyt MagnaTec for hunting, CX 300s. Martin Shadowcat, Pro 150s. Pearson MarXman, Muddy Virtue HT3s.


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