# Mathews Vertix DETAILED tuning



## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Alright so was able to get my hands on a vertix earlier this week as I was very interested to see how things were effected as peak weight changed at the same DL. I usually run Mathews .5” shorter on DL remove the grip (1/8 thick) remove a couple twist from the aim string and run a little longer loop. Being that I like this grip I chose to run the bow right at peak weight. And the same length as I do bowtechs hoyts etc... This one came in from the factory spot on peak weight so I just ran with it. 

Here’s the specs at 60lbs 27”

Top hats I’m using the same kit top and bottom which is the most “centered” set they offer. Top has small on left bottom has small on right. (Very balanced) and leaves cam lean at full draw a perfect match top and bottom and perfectly tracking the aim string. Basiscly zero lean at full draw and very slight pre lean at brace. Both mods contacting cables identically on the module as far as left and right. 

Amo draw length 27.3”
Centershot right between 3/4-13/16 
Peak weight 60.1 lb
Holding weight 9.4lbs
Ata 30 1/16
Bh 6”
Full draw ATA 27 1/16 (3” of limb flex)
Cam sync is dead even (will post pics of my go to when a half twist is too much and that’s often with this system)
Nock height is maybe 64th nock high at brace. (Less than all the previous models)
I like to run them a little higher in the Berger hole bottom of shaft in center of hole just for pin float purposes. 
Center of D-loop is 12 7/8 from where the string leaves the top cam track
13 1/8 from the bottom string track 
Rest on the bow is the integrated qad imx which is for another thread but absolutely amazing rest. Hands down worth the extra cash in every aspect. The tightest well built micro rest on the planet and I’ve tried about every one out there. I’ll cover the 27” 70lb tune specs in the next post. As well as what changed and what to expect.


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

60lb bareshafts @ 20 yards


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Alight when a half twist is too much in the cables to get cam sync perfect I use the actaul twist in the cable end loops to micro tune timing. A tiny twist goes A LONG way. Same cable one twist removed from loop end as u can see that lengthens the cable about 1/8”


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## jonfinnell (Nov 26, 2008)

Tagged 


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Alright now to 27” and 70lb mods. As u increase in weight with each module the hump in the module shape increases. (Not draw cycle just module shape itself) so bc of that the first thing you will notice is that going from 60 to 70lbs the timing hole identification changes. It went from the middle front half of the holes top and bottom to the dead middle of the holes top and bottom. Actual cam rotation doesn’t change just the reference holes itself. I made zero bow changes just simply swapped the modules. 

So here’s 27” 70bs 

Amo DL 27.3” (zero change)
Peak weight 70lbs exact 10lb increase
Holding weight 11.71lbs 83.2%
Cenershot and tophats remain the same as 60lb modules. Depending on limb deflections this could vary bow to bow. (This bow has very identical tight deflections) 
Ata BH etc.. all remained the exact same

***FULL DRAW ATA 26 3/4 70lb mods flexes .3125 more with the 10lb Increase***

Cam sync and timing remain the same with no change from 60 to 70lbs

Bareshaft at 27” 70lbs @ 40 yards


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## griffwar (Nov 15, 2012)

Sweet


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## Mathias (Mar 21, 2005)

Nice work.
Although I have a CT5 on order, the Vertix was my #2 bow and I’m confident I’ll add one next year. Love the new grip.


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

27” 60lb speeds 

414 grain shaft @ 270 fps 
ibo equivalent 348 fps



27” 70lbs speeds

444 grain shaft @ 278 fps
Ibo equivalent 348 fps 

Factory strings with monkey tails installed


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

60lb DFC. Slight changes were made after this so numbers above it are not 110%

70lb DFC looks identical. No real need to post. Will have 65lb and 75lb mods in the near future and will add to the thread then with those


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## drw679 (Dec 12, 2011)

Awesome info! Peep installed also?


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

A few things to note the limbs will NOT fit any previous bows. The pockets will not interchange between previous models. It appears the limbs are 60lb limbs that they are using. Limb deflections are 90. I believe the previous 70lb limbs are 110 with the past couple years. The grips will not change over without some type of trimming. They did round off all the edges under the grip which I REALLY enjoy. Will make side plates a Dream on this bow. 

They are not using the same glue under the grip so they are nearly impossible to remove without damaging. Heard of one coming off easy but mine and several others were nearly impossible. Actually cut my grip trying to remove it. Heated it to no end. Also have noticed with the grip angle change the heel pressure and bareshafts are not nearly as picky. Was able to maintain a clean bareshaft flight with lots of heel pressure or nearly none. Grip stance is very neutral for left and rights as well. 

Sight pin runs pretty much dead down the center of the shaft. Not offset to the left like previous models. Also noticed no torque change going from 60-70. (Have a line drawn on the back of the bow for reference at full draw) I think this is due to the limb flex being much more than years past. I’m sure it’s part of the design with the modules. The riser isn’t taking much load. Not sure I’ve ever seen a bow that requires so little effort from the press to relax the string.


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

drw679 said:


> Awesome info! Peep installed also?


 yes all numbers and tune are with bow completely ready to rock


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## full moon64 (Jul 3, 2016)

what type of vanes u shooting there?


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## drw679 (Dec 12, 2011)

Thanks bro! ".....I've got a fever... and the only prescription is more vertix..."


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

full moon64 said:


> what type of vanes u shooting there?


aae pro maxx 4 fletch 2* of helical


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## mn5503 (Feb 21, 2006)

Where's my Vertix?!?!?!?!?!? Still waiting for my 75lb 28"


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

String angle at 60lb vs 70lb. This may not be 100% accurate but it’s all I have access too at the moment. Possibly 1* change do to the .31” more flex at 70


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Couple photos of the rest. Won’t go into deep detail but if u have questions about it ask away. I can tell u it’s quiter lighter smoother and just plain better than any previous model qad. The cord attachment no longer has to fish through the rubber and all that mess. Just simply loosen the set screw and completely slide the rope out. It’s a 2 second deal no more fighting the screw and rubber. The actual knob doesn’t come off.


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## BlackSunshyne (Sep 27, 2012)

That is awesome!!


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Mathias said:


> Nice work.
> Although I have a CT5 on order, the Vertix was my #2 bow and I’m confident I’ll add one next year. Love the new grip.


hwaring great things about the ct series. I may own one too eventually. Not usually a fan of bows under 32 inches anymore but this one is piling them in there at 90-100 yards as good any any bow over ever owned. Took me some playing with stabilizer set up but it’s holding every bit as good if not better than my realm x with less effort from stabilizers. I may buy a traverse and put some vertix cams on it. I’m thinking a 70lb traverse with 75lb mods and vertix cams will come in at 85-90lbs. Which is prob why they changed the pocket and limb design on the vertix to make that more difficult for people to do.


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## SplitBrow189 (Dec 25, 2008)

Awesome work, thank you!


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## Kaveman44 (Aug 29, 2015)

Can’t wait for my Vertix!!!!!! Please hurry


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## brokenarrow81 (May 9, 2013)

Good write up/info! 

Wonder if they will offer the QAD in other colors?
Traverse on order and still debating on that QAD


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## TheTracker (Sep 11, 2009)

Well done, Your nock point is 1/64th above dead center?


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## TheTracker (Sep 11, 2009)

brokenarrow81 said:


> Good write up/info!
> 
> Wonder if they will offer the QAD in other colors?
> Traverse on order and still debating on that QAD


Its definitely worth it if you can find a shop not price gouging on them, My shop is selling them for $199!


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## Brettski7 (Sep 13, 2017)

TheTracker said:


> Its definitely worth it if you can find a shop not price gouging on them, My shop is selling them for $199!


What shop is that and where?


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## TheTracker (Sep 11, 2009)

Brettski7 said:


> What shop is that and where?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


J&S Archery, Findlay OH and they'll ship!


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## leftee (Nov 15, 2005)

Thanks much!Great info and solid testing.Corresponds with what some right handed friends have told me.Love the 60lb limb thing and the module system if it works like that.
Lefties soon I hope.


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

brokenarrow81 said:


> Good write up/info!
> 
> Wonder if they will offer the QAD in other colors?
> Traverse on order and still debating on that QAD


 as of now just black. Mathews does own the rest. So it will actually be purchased the them and not qad. I tried to get some answers from both of them on this but they would not budge


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

TheTracker said:


> Well done, Your nock point is 1/64th above dead center?


no the 64th I was referring too was the level bubble on the shaft. Nocking point is 12 7/8 from top and 13 1/8 from bottom. Leaves the bottom of the shaft through the middle of the hole


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## Razorbak (May 26, 2004)

Tagged


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Another thing to keep in mind as your changing from 60 to 70 or vice versa the timing of the drop away cord NEEDS to be adjusted. It will give you a false reading in a draw board that the cam timing is off. Or simply not fall out of the way. I suggest full loosing the adjustment when setting cam timing and then re adjusting the rest cord with every change of draw weight. As you go up in weight the cord will need to be longer. Difference from 60 to 70 in picture


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

One more thing I’ve ran into bouncing between mods at the same DL different poundage is the fact that you can tweak the modules by about 1/16th to 1/8th just by how u install them when tightening the bolts. They are self centering yes but only to a degree. It’s been the case with all these past bows just probably went un noticed most of the time due to not changing them often.

I can have the top cam hitting first by 1/16 loosen the screws apply pressure to the module slightly in the opposite direction and then the bottom cam will be hitting first by a 16th. Just something else to keep in mind before twisting cables and loosing a good prior tune.If u change from one DW mod to the other in the same DL don’t just throw it in the drawboard and assume the timing is slightly out. I would shoot several arrows between mod changes to let the cables re settle to the different size lobe before adjusting things. I know some of this stuff is minor and most probably know it already. Didn’t come this far to leave out any fine details that may effect some tho. This is things most shops will completely over look. Which is why u will see some bows tuning 1/4 nock high at brace and some level. All these things are small potential details to a perfect clean repeatable tune.


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## BlackSunshyne (Sep 27, 2012)

Great information in this thread. Thank you for putting it up here.


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## TheTracker (Sep 11, 2009)

Bbd16 said:


> no the 64th I was referring too was the level bubble on the shaft. Nocking point is 12 7/8 from top and 13 1/8 from bottom. Leaves the bottom of the shaft through the middle of the hole


Ok thanks for clearing that up.

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## Willyboys (Feb 12, 2010)

following


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

TheTracker said:


> Bbd16 said:
> 
> 
> > no the 64th I was referring too was the level bubble on the shaft. Nocking point is 12 7/8 from top and 13 1/8 from bottom. Leaves the bottom of the shaft through the middle of the hole
> ...


no problem. From what it’s worth i did not see any changes when running the nocking point in the center of the ata. I’ve went from low Berger hole to high Berger hole with little to no change in tune


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## KYBowhunter89 (Sep 21, 2008)

Did you run higher to prevent the pin dipping low? If I don't run my pulling point at least dead center of ata I have this problem on my h32, even with a back bar.


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

KYBowhunter89 said:


> Did you run higher to prevent the pin dipping low? If I don't run my pulling point at least dead center of ata I have this problem on my h32, even with a back bar.


 pin dipping low is probably more to do with form than the bow itself. I run mine a little higher to change the angle of the riser at full draw. Yes technically that could aid in the bow aiming a little higher in the face with all other things being equal. I think there is more and better ways to correct aiming low than d loop position tho. Raising the holding weight would be my very first thing to try if I were dropping low in the target. I’m running a 13.5 inch front bar with 3 ounces and a 1” quick connect. My sight is tight to the riser in terms of the 6 inch dovetail. I think often time bars weight is used to correct form flaws or draw length issues. That’s just my personal opinion.


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## KYBowhunter89 (Sep 21, 2008)

What I'm describing is splitting hairs. I don't mean dipping totally below my target, just like maybe an inch when out past 50 yards. 

I agree with what you were saying, but my question was more of a fine tune aiming question than that of something resulting from a flaw in one's form.


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## Pazimon (Sep 18, 2017)

Bbd16 said:


> String angle at 60lb vs 70lb. This may not be 100% accurate but it’s all I have access too at the moment. Possibly 1* change do to the .31” more flex at 70


Can you say what the string angle would be at 29,5" draw length?


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

KYBowhunter89 said:


> What I'm describing is splitting hairs. I don't mean dipping totally below my target, just like maybe an inch when out past 50 yards.
> 
> I agree with what you were saying, but my question was more of a fine tune aiming question than that of something resulting from a flaw in one's form.


 gotcha I’m not real sure that it would help aid in that honestly. It’s worth a try tho we all have different grip pressures it could have twice the change for you than it does for me. I personally like just about all bows set in the upper half of the hole.


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Pazimon said:


> Bbd16 said:
> 
> 
> > String angle at 60lb vs 70lb. This may not be 100% accurate but it’s all I have access too at the moment. Possibly 1* change do to the .31” more flex at 70
> ...


I’m not real sure with what I’m using to measure it it would need to be a very straight side pic. That I don’t have. Not sure that my numbers are 100 percent accurate in that area. I’m sure they are very close tho


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## Rogers32 (Sep 29, 2017)

What a great post. Thanks


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## brokenarrow81 (May 9, 2013)

Bbd16 said:


> as of now just black. Mathews does own the rest. So it will actually be purchased the them and not qad. I tried to get some answers from both of them on this but they would not budge


Yeah I recently came across the standard Mathews specific/branded QAD HDX in realtree edge and wondered if the new one would be offered in camo as well. Had me curious since this is the first year for realtree edge.


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

brokenarrow81 said:


> Bbd16 said:
> 
> 
> > as of now just black. Mathews does own the rest. So it will actually be purchased the them and not qad. I tried to get some answers from both of them on this but they would not budge
> ...


yea would be nice to see some color options. A stone version would be neat. With that said I have a black standard hdx Mathews addition in perfect t shape if anybody is interested. I’d take 90$ shipped for it


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## RavinHood (Sep 17, 2015)

I was told just black for now but other camps in the future 


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## mjduct (Aug 16, 2013)

Krylon???? 😉


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

mjduct said:


> Krylon???? 😉


 you may be onto something 🤔😂


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

KYBowhunter89 said:


> What I'm describing is splitting hairs. I don't mean dipping totally below my target, just like maybe an inch when out past 50 yards.
> 
> I agree with what you were saying, but my question was more of a fine tune aiming question than that of something resulting from a flaw in one's form.


I find with this system running nocking point dead center of ATA may help you out. Same with the Triax 

Good tune breakdown :thumbs_up


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## 5MileCreek (Feb 20, 2010)

Great Post!!! All the questions I had on maintaining tune after and between module weight swaps just got answered. Thank you for your time. This looks like my next bow. 
Thank you!

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## Racinray (Jul 5, 2015)

Nice info on the slight module adjustment tweaks and rest cable changes when changing mods. Would of never thought about it till it drove me crazy when tuning. Nice job!!


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## Rhyno_09 (Dec 5, 2012)

I have a vertix on order and was going to put the Limb driven Hamskea Hybrid Hunter Pro (Micro Adj.), but this QAD is interesting. If they redesigned it so you do not have to mess with that rubber piece, just the screw and pull the cord (I think that is how the HHA Virtus rest is like).


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Rhyno_09 said:


> I have a vertix on order and was going to put the Limb driven Hamskea Hybrid Hunter Pro (Micro Adj.), but this QAD is interesting. If they redesigned it so you do not have to mess with that rubber piece, just the screw and pull the cord (I think that is how the HHA Virtus rest is like).


its the simplest rest on the planet. Each and every aspect from mounting to operating. I have standards ripcords hamskeas and a several others. They don’t even come close to comparing


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

5MileCreek said:


> Great Post!!! All the questions I had on maintaining tune after and between module weight swaps just got answered. Thank you for your time. This looks like my next bow.
> Thank you!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


 nice glad it was helpful! Great shooting little bow. Will be working on sight tapes for it tomorrow I’ll throw up some groups down range with it. Seems to be holding rock steady so far


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

A little clip of the vertix and bareshaft at 100 yards. This new grip really paved the way for forgiveness. 

https://youtu.be/ToEasqzp5rc


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## mjduct (Aug 16, 2013)

I’ve got that grip on my TX-5 and it is very repeatable and forgiving. Even with the 28” ATA and 5” BH. In shooting session #2 today I was matching my best groups at 50 yards with about a pound less stabilizers/ heavy sights strung out on long dovetails


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

mjduct said:


> I’ve got that grip on my TX-5 and it is very repeatable and forgiving. Even with the 28” ATA and 5” BH. In shooting session #2 today I was matching my best groups at 50 yards with about a pound less stabilizers/ heavy sights strung out on long dovetails


 I’m running the least amount of weight I’ve ever ran on a hunting bow. My entire bow set up without the quiver attached is only 6.2lbs. They hold rock solid. I’m pounding a pie plate at 100 yards as we speak time after time. My lefts and rights have never been so consistent at long range with a shorter bar


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## Kaveman44 (Aug 29, 2015)

Bbd16 said:


> A little clip of the vertix and bareshaft at 100 yards. This new grip really paved the way for forgiveness.
> 
> https://youtu.be/ToEasqzp5rc



sweet shooting , can't wait for mine to show up


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## BlackSunshyne (Sep 27, 2012)

Bbd16 said:


> I’m running the least amount of weight I’ve ever ran on a hunting bow. My entire bow set up without the quiver attached is only 6.2lbs. They hold rock solid. I’m pounding a pie plate at 100 yards as we speak time after time. My lefts and rights have never been so consistent at long range with a shorter bar


What sort of stabilizer and sight setup are you running on it? So far I've been running with no stabilizers at all with a short sight on it. Waiting on a dovetail to arrive and then may be back bar only. Amazing balance on it.


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## mn5503 (Feb 21, 2006)

Bbd16 said:


> A little clip of the vertix and bareshaft at 100 yards. This new grip really paved the way for forgiveness.
> 
> https://youtu.be/ToEasqzp5rc


Nice


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

BlackSunshyne said:


> Bbd16 said:
> 
> 
> > I’m running the least amount of weight I’ve ever ran on a hunting bow. My entire bow set up without the quiver attached is only 6.2lbs. They hold rock solid. I’m pounding a pie plate at 100 yards as we speak time after time. My lefts and rights have never been so consistent at long range with a shorter bar
> ...


 a 6” carbon accutouch pulled in to the closest setting. Still out a good ways tho. I wouldn’t put it any closer I don’t think anyway. Stabilizer is Easton z flex that I’ve been cutting down this week for this bow. It’s at 13.5” and 1” quick connect. 3oz on the end


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## krieger (Jan 24, 2007)

Bbd16 said:


> I’m running the least amount of weight I’ve ever ran on a hunting bow. My entire bow set up without the quiver attached is only 6.2lbs. They hold rock solid. I’m pounding a pie plate at 100 yards as we speak time after time. My lefts and rights have never been so consistent at long range with a shorter bar


 One aspect that is often overlooked when bow models are considered. Sounds like a very stable and forgiving platform, I weighed my Gunny yesterday, it was also 6.2 lbs, ready for action, so for the Vertix to be at that weight is pretty impressive. Goes to show some " heavy " bows are actually light bows when they are all set up, a bow that is .5 lbs lighter naked might be 1.5 lbs heavier when it's set up to point and hold well. Excellent report!


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

krieger said:


> Bbd16 said:
> 
> 
> > I’m running the least amount of weight I’ve ever ran on a hunting bow. My entire bow set up without the quiver attached is only 6.2lbs. They hold rock solid. I’m pounding a pie plate at 100 yards as we speak time after time. My lefts and rights have never been so consistent at long range with a shorter bar
> ...


 i couldn’t Agree more. I’ve owned a realm x and rx3 recently which both weighed more when fully set up to the float and dynamic reaction through the shot I was looking for. My realm x had the same sight in the same location as far as the doveltail and it took 2 ounces and 2 inches more to get the bow to react the same through the shot upon release. I put them on slow motion cameras and adjust accordingly. 

A lot of people cry about .3 .5 or even .8 ounces in a bare bow for different reasons. None of which I would ever consider Thinking about. In reality if you Take what I would call the 3 top sights out right now for example. Hha Kingpin garmin and carbon accutouch. My accutouch is .8 ounces lighter than both of those with a full 6 inch bar and av41 housing. I don’t think a lot of people even realize how much weight variance theyre are in stabilizer bars without the weights. A lot of these smaller/newer colorful brand bars that are very popular right now have extremely heavy bars in comparison to some of the better bars.


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## Kingsnake (Dec 27, 2010)

I'm wondering about the speed he's getting.
I have heard a few people say the Triax was about 1 fps faster.
He shower 270 fps, 60 lb.bow 414 grain arrow.
My Triax is getting 265 from 62 lbs. and a 410 grain arrow.
I have a Caldwell crony that seems spot on and used outdoors for the most accurate 
lighting.
What do you guys think ?.


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## BlackSunshyne (Sep 27, 2012)

My Vertix runs right on or +1fps on my Labradar straight out of the box. This guy has tweaked and tuned every single thing possible on it. Something like 6-7k shots in a week. Perfectly tuned and dialed in he is 4 over. Nice gain, I'm probably more impressed with +1 straight out of the box.


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## Hower08 (Sep 20, 2007)

drw679 said:


> Thanks bro! ".....I've got a fever... and the only prescription is more vertix..."


Ha I'm not a Mathews guy but I sure am glad I opened this thread now


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## SFHunter10 (Nov 19, 2018)

tagged...great info!


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## Billincamo (Dec 8, 2002)

TheTracker said:


> Its definitely worth it if you can find a shop not price gouging on them, My shop is selling them for $199!


So you know what the dealers cost? There are more factors that go into pricing then just dealer cost. Try running a shop in California where rent and real estate is insane. You would have to charge more then someone in the midwest were rent is practically free. i do know that the QAD made for the Mathews is one of the highest priced rest on the market at dealers cost.


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## Thundersnow (Nov 15, 2014)

Billincamo said:


> TheTracker said:
> 
> 
> > Its definitely worth it if you can find a shop not price gouging on them, My shop is selling them for $199!
> ...


How much do they cost at your shop? (Asking for a friend in California)


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## sno_gimp (May 15, 2010)

i have roughly 1000 shots through my 28in 70# vertix. really love this bow. I prefer a limb driver rest so I did not go with the custom QAD rest. just personal preference. great info here. thanks for the post.


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## TheTracker (Sep 11, 2009)

Billincamo said:


> So you know what the dealers cost? There are more factors that go into pricing then just dealer cost. Try running a shop in California where rent and real estate is insane. You would have to charge more then someone in the midwest were rent is practically free. i do know that the QAD made for the Mathews is one of the highest priced rest on the market at dealers cost.


I would never live in California or any other liberal cesspool. If taxes and cost of living bother you then leave.

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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Kingsnake said:


> I'm wondering about the speed he's getting.
> I have heard a few people say the Triax was about 1 fps faster.
> He shower 270 fps, 60 lb.bow 414 grain arrow.
> My Triax is getting 265 from 62 lbs. and a 410 grain arrow.
> ...


 i personally don’t think chronos outside are very accurate. Your dealing with different lighting everyday. I would rather be indoors with controlled tempature and controlled led lighting.


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

sno_gimp said:


> i have roughly 1000 shots through my 28in 70# vertix. really love this bow. I prefer a limb driver rest so I did not go with the custom QAD rest. just personal preference. great info here. thanks for the post.


 nice! I’m also a fan of limb driven rest. I do want to do some testing with one for the heck of it on this bow. I don’t recall ever having a bow with this degree of limb flex. It should hold the arrow on the rest for a very very long time. Do you notice the rest raising up sooner in the draw cycle than previous bows?


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## Pazimon (Sep 18, 2017)

Interested in the riser length of the vertix. Could someone measure it? Thx


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Pazimon said:


> Interested in the riser length of the vertix. Could someone measure it? Thx


 27 1/4. Half inch shorter than the halon 32


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Cam to cam 35 3/4
At full draw cam to cam is 33 1/4 
That’s with 60lb 27” mods


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## Pazimon (Sep 18, 2017)

Bbd16 said:


> Cam to cam 35 3/4
> At full draw cam to cam is 33 1/4
> That’s with 60lb 27” mods


thank you. sounds not bad for a 30" Bow. String angle should be good at my 30" draw.


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## LSUGOLFER (Nov 1, 2013)

Bbd16 said:


> Another thing to keep in mind as your changing from 60 to 70 or vice versa the timing of the drop away cord NEEDS to be adjusted. It will give you a false reading in a draw board that the cam timing is off. Or simply not fall out of the way. I suggest full loosing the adjustment when setting cam timing and then re adjusting the rest cord with every change of draw weight. As you go up in weight the cord will need to be longer. Difference from 60 to 70 in picture


I'm taking your offer for questions specific to the rest. Im currently running an Axion Pulse on the Triax and never owned a QAD. After shooting the bow this weekend I am sold on it and the rest. My question is can the timing adjustment you said is required when switching modules something easy and can do at the house? I plan to get the Vertix with multiple mods and will change as I see the need. Are you able to tell if you need to adjust by just pulling the bow back? 

Im used to tying to the limb and checking a timing mark for the rest Im using now. 

Thanks in advance.


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

LSUGOLFER said:


> Bbd16 said:
> 
> 
> > Another thing to keep in mind as your changing from 60 to 70 or vice versa the timing of the drop away cord NEEDS to be adjusted. It will give you a false reading in a draw board that the cam timing is off. Or simply not fall out of the way. I suggest full loosing the adjustment when setting cam timing and then re adjusting the rest cord with every change of draw weight. As you go up in weight the cord will need to be longer. Difference from 60 to 70 in picture
> ...


 yes you will just loosin the set screw located on the back of the cocking lever that holds the cord in place. Then You can adjust as needed. I personally have mine set up to fully come up when the cable stops are 1/4 inch from touching at full draw. If your drawing the bow and setting it that way without a draw board It should look like it fully comes up just a split second before u hit the back wall. If it’s on the right side it will not allow that bottom cam to rotate into the stop as quickly. Which is why I said it will make one think the cam timing is off. You don’t want it tight at full draw. Just enough to raise the rest fully. If u plan on changing mods around juatcleave and inch or so to play with hanging out the back of the cocking lever


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Went ahead and put a dfc together @ 70


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## WildmanWilson 2 (Aug 6, 2018)

I really wish Mathews would go to yokes. Too much crap to go through to tune a dang bow anymore.


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

WildmanWilson 2 said:


> I really wish Mathews would go to yokes. Too much crap to go through to tune a dang bow anymore.


 They are all “easy” per say to tune. Some u twist a yoke. Others u slide a shim into a hole or onto an axle. Both systems are super quick imo. I can have whatever tophats I need installed on the bow and back out of the press within maybe 45 seconds to a minute. Not sure it really gets easier. The wider stance on bows now days don’t really need yokes. Yoke systems are great but they have a downside just like all systems do with tuning imo. If I need a half twist in a yoke end to fix my lateral nock travel rather that a full twist then your stuck dealing with slight timing issues or slight vertical nock travel issues. Even on the OD bowtechs. I think they are ALL pretty dang equal with tuning now days. One thing I DO wish Mathews would do is make a tophat set that allows for the cam to sit equally in the middle of the limbs. That 4 option would come in very handy


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## KYBowhunter89 (Sep 21, 2008)

That equal with option would be sweet.

The top hat system isn't bad at all once you get used to it. I can switch a set in less than a minute. Once it's done, when you swap a string set you just have to Let everything settle back in and your tune will be right where it needs to be.

Top hat shimming is a balancing act with adjusting centershot. I set mine up around 13/16" then adjust top hats if needed to macro adjust my lateral nock travel then really dial in the centershot once I get the top hats where I need them. Once you do that, these bows hold that tune very well.


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

KYBowhunter89 said:


> That equal with option would be sweet.
> 
> The top hat system isn't bad at all once you get used to it. I can switch a set in less than a minute. Once it's done, when you swap a string set you just have to Let everything settle back in and your tune will be right where it needs to be.
> 
> Top hat shimming is a balancing act with adjusting centershot. I set mine up around 13/16" then adjust top hats if needed to macro adjust my lateral nock travel then really dial in the centershot once I get the top hats where I need them. Once you do that, these bows hold that tune very well.


 I’ve filed down 2 sets so far to be equal and sold both bows with them installed LOL completely forgot about it until one of the guys txt me asking about the “wrong” size tophats. I need to make some more. When I spoke to Mathews about it last year the best response I could get was “I’m too picky”


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## WildmanWilson 2 (Aug 6, 2018)

Bbd16 said:


> They are all “easy” per say to tune. Some u twist a yoke. Others u slide a shim into a hole or onto an axle. Both systems are super quick imo. I can have whatever tophats I need installed on the bow and back out of the press within maybe 45 seconds to a minute. Not sure it really gets easier. The wider stance on bows now days don’t really need yokes. Yoke systems are great but they have a downside just like all systems do with tuning imo. If I need a half twist in a yoke end to fix my lateral nock travel rather that a full twist then your stuck dealing with slight timing issues or slight vertical nock travel issues. Even on the OD bowtechs. I think they are ALL pretty dang equal with tuning now days. One thing I DO wish Mathews would do is make a tophat set that allows for the cam to sit equally in the middle of the limbs. That 4 option would come in very handy


But most guys aren’t top end tuners. The top hats and shimming just seems more complicated to deal with. Yokes are simple for most of us average guys to handle.


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

WildmanWilson 2 said:


> Bbd16 said:
> 
> 
> > They are all “easy” per say to tune. Some u twist a yoke. Others u slide a shim into a hole or onto an axle. Both systems are super quick imo. I can have whatever tophats I need installed on the bow and back out of the press within maybe 45 seconds to a minute. Not sure it really gets easier. The wider stance on bows now days don’t really need yokes. Yoke systems are great but they have a downside just like all systems do with tuning imo. If I need a half twist in a yoke end to fix my lateral nock travel rather that a full twist then your stuck dealing with slight timing issues or slight vertical nock travel issues. Even on the OD bowtechs. I think they are ALL pretty dang equal with tuning now days. One thing I DO wish Mathews would do is make a tophat set that allows for the cam to sit equally in the middle of the limbs. That 4 option would come in very handy
> ...


 they are simple to get to sure. U don’t have to remove the Allen bolt and cam. With that said the average guys probably don’t understand fully what twisting a yoke is effecting if it’s not done equally on both sides or top and bottom. A half twist to a yoke does a lot more to other settings than swapping a tophat. In all honestly if I were writing a book on tuning the overdrive binary would have the most pages. They are far more confusing when looking at all the aspects. But they also have more options which to me is a good thing.


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## Scott99 (Sep 12, 2006)

"U don’t have to remove the Allen bolt and cam."

So how does one change top hats without doing the above?


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Scott99 said:


> "U don’t have to remove the Allen bolt and cam."
> 
> So how does one change top hats without doing the above?


 pay attention boss. He ended his sentence talking about a yoke system. I picked up is sentence talking about a yoke system


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## Scott99 (Sep 12, 2006)

sorry reading comprehension problems.


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Scott99 said:


> sorry reading comprehension problems.


 lol I have plenty of those mysef I understand


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## Willyboys (Feb 12, 2010)

Question - Does 11/16" Centershot at berger show a need for different tuning like top hats? Just bought mine yesterday and the shop set it up like that. The arrow shaft is pointing a bit right (about 5/8" at the front of the riser) and it's bugging me. 

Even set up a such, the bow is shooting sweet. Paper tuned well. Hits where it is aimed. 

I'm just planning to get shots through it to settle out the strings and cables and then revisit the tune after that. I'd like the CS to be parallel to the riser but maybe I'm too picky?


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## KYBowhunter89 (Sep 21, 2008)

What is your top hat arrangement? Sounds like you have the cams moved farthest to the right to end up with that centershot.

I don't have experience with the Vertix, but I run my cs around 3/4-13/16". I don't like it any closer because it isn't down the middle and my sight housing starts to get covered by the riser. 

My definition of tuned is shooting bareshafts at least out to 30 yards and I do so by using the top hats and fine adjustments of the rest within my desired cs range. I haven't shot through paper in years. I would check your bare shaft flight at least to 20 yards with your current settings before I started making adjustments with top hats.


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Willyboys said:


> Question - Does 11/16" Centershot at berger show a need for different tuning like top hats? Just bought mine yesterday and the shop set it up like that. The arrow shaft is pointing a bit right (about 5/8" at the front of the riser) and it's bugging me.
> 
> Even set up a such, the bow is shooting sweet. Paper tuned well. Hits where it is aimed.
> 
> I'm just planning to get shots through it to settle out the strings and cables and then revisit the tune after that. I'd like the CS to be parallel to the riser but maybe I'm too picky?


this is a subject some people look at differently. I’ll give my personal preference. I want the system as a whole to be in balance. Tuning is all about balance in general from ones grip to the bow itself. So for instance if my centershot is 13/16 and perfectly parallel to the riser but my top hats have the top cam pushed completely to the right side of the bow and the bottom completely to the left side I usually will try and get that a little more even within the limbs on both. I don’t want my top cam to have a ton of pre lean and the bottom to have little to none or vice versa. That leads to one stop hitting the inner edge and the other hitting the outside edge depending on limb deflections. I’ll move those if I need to as well. Keep in mind there’s 3 sets of tophats so when I say pushed all the way to one side I’m talking about the set that has the biggest and smallest tophats. Is that ok? Well if it’s in tune technically yes and would perform just as good as anything. It’s just not my preference. When the limb deflections allow for it I want my top and bottom pre lean and full draw lean to mirror each other as best as possible. Then I will set the centershot back even with the riser as possible. It may be that 3/4 is now the measurement that makes that happen since the aim string position is being changed. With any shim type system I don’t chase a number. That will eventually lead to an arrow pointing east or west at brace. So it’s more so personal preference. I can’t state that one way is better or worse. What I do know is when it’s in a more balanced state the cams are moving side to side less during the cycle and that can’t be a bad thing


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

If you don’t have experience with bareshafts and ALOT of knowledge to go with it I wouldn’t go changing much depending on your results. I pretty much stopped recommending bareshaft tuning unless I know that said person is well above everage in that department. Simple thins like 1/4 turn of the nock,facial pressure, wall pressure, nock fit, spine, tip weight, release type loop length form grip all play a huge roll in bareshaft tuning. And there’s a million other things I could add. Not that I’m against it bc that’s the method I use. I just know most chase their tail over and over when most case it’s not the bow itself


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## Willyboys (Feb 12, 2010)

KYBowhunter89 said:


> What is your top hat arrangement? Sounds like you have the cams moved farthest to the right to end up with that centershot.
> 
> I don't have experience with the Vertix, but I run my cs around 3/4-13/16". I don't like it any closer because it isn't down the middle and my sight housing starts to get covered by the riser.
> 
> My definition of tuned is shooting bareshafts at least out to 30 yards and I do so by using the top hats and fine adjustments of the rest within my desired cs range. I haven't shot through paper in years. I would check your bare shaft flight at least to 20 yards with your current settings before I started making adjustments with top hats.


My top hats are: Bottom - thick right side, Top - thick left side. About an 1/8" spacer on the thick side and half or less of that on the thin side. I just checked the cam lean at brace and it is spot on identical top and bottom. Also remeasured the CS - Still 11/16" at center of berger hole and 21/32" at front edge or riser (not as severe as 5/8 as I said earlier). Cam timing is spot on. 

I don't know much about the effects of switching top hats around so I won't mess with those until I do and if needed.


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

I’ll add these 2 things to the thread since we’re talking tune settings and tuning results. It’s just 2 simple references I create and allow to become habit. In the front of the grip I just use medical tape to build a ridge or in this case a Chanel for my grip reference. After tune results are where I want them bow wise I’ll take a bareshaft and start shooting it at longer ranges 60-80 yards and really fine tuning the tiny tiny amounts of grip change until I find long range repeatability. 

I’ll usually spend a day getting those out exactly where I want them. Shoot move the Chanel. Angle it whatever my grip calls for. Knuckles back to me starts giving me a tail left impact right at long range I’ll alide the ride towards to riser forcing me to adjust my grip slightly and put my knuckles more towards the target. These are tiny tiny movements. Not something a bareshaft would even begin to show at 20-30 yards. Then obviously I’ll put some prettier tape up there! 

The line on the back of the riser on the bow to the left is something I apply after tuning. Had a coach show me this who’s taught several world record holding students. (They all use this) it’s juat a simple reference at full draw that’s very easy to see in my sight picture. I Adjust it so that one of the cables is in line with it and repeatable. while I’m at ancor ANY torque or grip change will move that line out from behind the cable. It’s not Something I focus on and stare at. It’s quick and easy and becomes 2nd nature. I think most would be surprised at how much that line moves and torque is applied when they pile on the new hunting jacket or slide on gloves for the late season etc.. 

I’ve had a group of guys I hunt with that shoot pretty regular all summer and then they get to the Midwest for hunting season and their broadheads are flying 7 inches left of where they were leading up to it. I put these on all of there bows and it became very obvious what was happening. Needless to say they all know how to shoot when they are piled into 3x more clothes or they put thick gloves on etc...


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Working on the site tapes today. Man this little thing will shoot. First 4 arrows at 50 this morning straight out of the bed. Now just need to split the difference on the tape and we’ll actually be getting somewhere !


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Alright 75lb mods just showed up I’ll add my thoughts on those as well as some technical info and changes


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Here’s the 75lb speeds. Same shaft as the 70s same Amo DL. Exact 5lb increase. Gained 2 fps in efficiency over the 70s. I can tell ya the 75 mods feel exactly like the 70s. Had to go back to my scale and actually re check to make sure I gained 5lbs. The first time I drew it back I thought I put the 70s right back on the bow. Rest cable needed slight adjustment. Everything else remained the same. Timing hole reference marks are the same from 70 to 75. Zero bow changes needed for timing or cam sync. I’m more blown away each time I change a mod on this bow. For a first year run at this system I can’t find a single flaw or mistake. They lottery perfected it on the first try. Not often that happens 

444 grains 
75lbs even 
27” DL
290.7 FPS equivalent ibo 349fps


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

75lb full draw ata 26 9/16


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## socalmonster09 (Feb 26, 2011)

I shot the Halon 5 with 25.5 mods. do you think I could make the Vertix work for my draw length. the shops don't have
mods in there shop that short. I know the Vertix is 26-30.5 and slower that the H5 and the MR5 is faster than the H5 which
I also have.


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

socalmonster09 said:


> I shot the Halon 5 with 25.5 mods. do you think I could make the Vertix work for my draw length. the shops don't have
> mods in there shop that short. I know the Vertix is 26-30.5 and slower that the H5 and the MR5 is faster than the H5 which
> I also have.


 really depends how picky u are with form and draw length. Or if u can feel a difference. Me personally I can feel 1/16th change in draw length right away. 1 twist to or from the aim string or half twist to the cables and I notice it. And so does my pin float. I’m sure most would have no idea anything changed. So for me no I wouldn’t be able to. You may can make it work. It’s going to be about 1/8 shorter than the h5 under the same settings.


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## mn5503 (Feb 21, 2006)

Living vicariously through this thread until my stupid Vertix arrives....


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## leftee (Nov 15, 2005)

Bbd16 thanks again for this very detailed informative thread.It corresponds with what my Archery shop right handed buddies back home have been telling me about the Vertix.
I’m in Ks hunting and it rained all day Thursday so drove to Pittsburg Ks to get a much needed haircut.Stopped at a place called Johns Sport Center and was amazed.Great store with everything a hunter could ask for really including a pretty full line of bows such as Hoyt,Mathews etc.AND they stock a bunch including ‘lefties’.
I had hoped to maybe be able to draw a 60lb right handed to feel what I’d read and been told and voila,hanging there where a bunch of them including two lefties,one of which was a 60lb one in Subalpine.Adam M an employee there spent the rest of his afternoon with me as we shot,tested,changed mods and tinkered with it and,bottom line,I left with it in hand.And man does it shoot! Shoot sweet!It is NOT harsh as often stated on here,the draw is smooth and sweet.Once triggered,one must feel what happens(or doesn’t happen) to believe it.Guys this was eye opening,go shoot all bows you are interested in,don’t rely much on what others say.
Mathews has another winner here and Johns Sports Center is great.Reasonable prices and great technical help.Sadly I ran into a Fanatic vest,some sticks and assorted other items there as well so my wallet got hurt bad but.....
Good hunting!


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

leftee said:


> Bbd16 thanks again for this very detailed informative thread.It corresponds with what my Archery shop right handed buddies back home have been telling me about the Vertix.
> I’m in Ks hunting and it rained all day Thursday so drove to Pittsburg Ks to get a much needed haircut.Stopped at a place called Johns Sport Center and was amazed.Great store with everything a hunter could ask for really including a pretty full line of bows such as Hoyt,Mathews etc.AND they stock a bunch including ‘lefties’.
> I had hoped to maybe be able to draw a 60lb right handed to feel what I’d read and been told and voila,hanging there where a bunch of them including two lefties,one of which was a 60lb one in Subalpine.Adam M an employee there spent the rest of his afternoon with me as we shot,tested,changed mods and tinkered with it and,bottom line,I left with it in hand.And man does it shoot! Shoot sweet!It is NOT harsh as often stated on here,the draw is smooth and sweet.Once triggered,one must feel what happens(or doesn’t happen) to believe it.Guys this was eye opening,go shoot all bows you are interested in,don’t rely much on what others say.
> Mathews has another winner here and Johns Sports Center is great.Reasonable prices and great technical help.Sadly I ran into a Fanatic vest,some sticks and assorted other items there as well so my wallet got hurt bad but.....
> Good hunting!


 I’m in ATL I have a house and 4 farms in KS as well. I usually spend 6 weeks there from November through December. I finally found me a lady that cuts my hair each year while I’m there LOL nice glad your enjoying it. Like mine very well too and I’ve tested almost every new one out there besides the ct3 and 5. At this point I have all the available mods at my draw length in 85%. so if y’all want any specifics while your waiting ask away. I hope to have all 4 mods in 80% as well very soon. 

Yes I agree nothing harsh about it. One thing I did notice during all this is the draw cycle will get a little rougher when u run the bow 2-3lbs over peak weight with any givin mod. These mods have a little more pre tension into the cables at brace than years past and I think that’s the cause of it. As u see a lot of people getting bows in that at 2-4lbs over. If they will use the cables and string to bring the bow back down to .5 - 1lb of it’s intended peak weight for that mod it will be VERY smooth. It’s kinda crazy and through me off at first but I’ve tested it at 60 65 70 and 75 with 2 full twist added to the cables in each setting and then 2 twist removed which brough it back down within .5lb. It’s night and day.


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## Chuckhalon32 (Apr 29, 2018)

Bbd16 said:


> Rhyno_09 said:
> 
> 
> > I have a vertix on order and was going to put the Limb driven Hamskea Hybrid Hunter Pro (Micro Adj.), but this QAD is interesting. If they redesigned it so you do not have to mess with that rubber piece, just the screw and pull the cord (I think that is how the HHA Virtus rest is like).
> ...


Buck Rub's Magne Drop is very simple. I have both and still can't decide on which to use. I'm like you I have tried about every rest out there but these two are home run's (Magne Drop and Integrated QAD)


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## enkriss (Apr 10, 2009)

Bbd16 said:


> I’m in ATL I have a house and 4 farms in KS as well. I usually spend 6 weeks there from November through December. I finally found me a lady that cuts my hair each year while I’m there LOL nice glad your enjoying it. Like mine very well too and I’ve tested almost every new one out there besides the ct3 and 5. At this point I have all the available mods at my draw length in 85%. so if y’all want any specifics while your waiting ask away. I hope to have all 4 mods in 80% as well very soon.
> 
> Yes I agree nothing harsh about it. One thing I did notice during all this is the draw cycle will get a little rougher when u run the bow 2-3lbs over peak weight with any givin mod. These mods have a little more pre tension into the cables at brace than years past and I think that’s the cause of it. As u see a lot of people getting bows in that at 2-4lbs over. If they will use the cables and string to bring the bow back down to .5 - 1lb of it’s intended peak weight for that mod it will be VERY smooth. It’s kinda crazy and through me off at first but I’ve tested it at 60 65 70 and 75 with 2 full twist added to the cables in each setting and then 2 twist removed which brough it back down within .5lb. It’s night and day.


So when you change mods from say 65lb to 75lb you will need to retune and twist/untwist cables?


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## Mathias (Mar 21, 2005)

I succumbed. As much as I wanted to get away from the Big name bows this year I couldn’t.
The Vertix just feels so good to me, the grip is perfection.
Ordered an Edge with black limbs and custom string color from factory.
7-8 weeks out, probably more after the ata show.
Dealer has sold 15 of them so far.


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## BlackSunshyne (Sep 27, 2012)

Mathias said:


> I succumbed. As much as I wanted to get away from the Big name bows this year I couldn’t.
> The Vertix just feels so good to me, the grip is perfection.
> Ordered an Edge with black limbs and custom string color from factory.
> 7-8 weeks out, probably more after the ata show.
> Dealer has sold 15 of them so far.


Congratulations. I couldn't resist the Vertix either. Phenomenal bow.


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## Turkey165 (Aug 24, 2009)

marked


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## PAKraig (Sep 19, 2005)

Bbd16 said:


> I’m in ATL I have a house and 4 farms in KS as well. I usually spend 6 weeks there from November through December. I finally found me a lady that cuts my hair each year while I’m there LOL nice glad your enjoying it. Like mine very well too and I’ve tested almost every new one out there besides the ct3 and 5. At this point I have all the available mods at my draw length in 85%. so if y’all want any specifics while your waiting ask away. I hope to have all 4 mods in 80% as well very soon.
> 
> *Yes I agree nothing harsh about it. One thing I did notice during all this is the draw cycle will get a little rougher when u run the bow 2-3lbs over peak weight with any givin mod. These mods have a little more pre tension into the cables at brace than years past and I think that’s the cause of it. As u see a lot of people getting bows in that at 2-4lbs over. If they will use the cables and string to bring the bow back down to .5 - 1lb of it’s intended peak weight for that mod it will be VERY smooth. It’s kinda crazy and through me off at first but I’ve tested it at 60 65 70 and 75 with 2 full twist added to the cables in each setting and then 2 twist removed which brough it back down within .5lb. It’s night and day.*


Ding ding ding!! I didn't realize this until I just read your post here. I shot one beside an RX-3 when they were first released in the Fall, and that was a 60lb Vertix pulling about 65+ lbs. Didn't like it, draw was rough! Shot it 2x and handed it back to employee. Bought an RX-3 as soon as I could though. I recently had a chance to spend some time with a well-tuned, factory spec'd 65 lber though, and that bow is a sweetheart! I checked the axle to axle length and it's right on at 30" and the string even had enough twists in it to put it at 85% letoff. It's a bit heavier than its carbon competitor but will definitely be keeping my eyes open for an unregistered "new" one.

Great thread!! :darkbeer:


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## Luke10 (Feb 13, 2018)

My vertix is. timed perfect. started off with a level arrow through berger hole. and had Nock low paper tear. Now im running Nock high in order to get a bullet hole through paper. tired different grips. higher in webbing of my hand and still same issue. any ideas?


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## trapshooter (Feb 14, 2005)

Luke10 said:


> My vertix is. timed perfect. started off with a level arrow through berger hole. and had Nock low paper tear. Now im running Nock high in order to get a bullet hole through paper. tired different grips. higher in webbing of my hand and still same issue. any ideas?


Just had this exact problem. The drop cord on my QAD was too tight. Moved it even with the string stop and times rest to just come up in the last 2 inches. After that, bow tuned dead level. Before I was 1/4” nock high


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## PAKraig (Sep 19, 2005)

trapshooter said:


> Just had this exact problem. The drop cord on my QAD was too tight. Moved it even with the string stop and times rest to just come up in the last 2 inches. After that, bow tuned dead level. Before I was 1/4” nock high


I was going to say use a limb driven rest, but this ∆ works too ;-)


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## Luke10 (Feb 13, 2018)

i just checked and it comes up at 1/2" before full draw.


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## KineKilla (Jul 30, 2018)

I remember that I had to adjust my rest but it was more a matter of tension than it was tie in location.


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## damOOn (Feb 25, 2019)

Flagging this post for reference as a future Vertix owner


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## aledub (Nov 10, 2015)

tagged...


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## meMYSELFnI (Jul 5, 2018)

Tagged


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## NYyotekiller (Dec 7, 2011)

Great write up.


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## Frasco808 (Feb 15, 2014)

Tagged


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## makauena (Feb 7, 2019)

Tagged


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## megafauna (Nov 7, 2018)

Tagged


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## LonePineAZ (Jan 24, 2018)

Thanks for the amazing info. I've used this as a base for my Mathews Vertix using C mods and 29.5" draw (30 w/ 1/2" D Loop). I called Mathews and spoke to Bob in technical support who's been a great help. I figured I'd share this here for reference.

*ALL TWISTS ARE 360 DEGREE CLOCKWISE ON STRING AND CABLES (FACING STRING/CABLE, LOOP END ON RIGHT)
* Bob mentioned that all adjustments must be made with the limb bolts completely tightened for the ratios below to be valid.

2 twists on SINGLE end of string
2 twists on each cable
__________________
6 total clockwise twists = 1/16 inch reduction in ATA

ATA: 30 1/32"
BH: 6"
CS: 13/16 (may change due to a sight leveling issue)
PEAK DRAW: #70.1
HOLD: #14

Thanks again.


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## bboswell (Jul 29, 2003)

Bbd16 said:


> I’m in ATL I have a house and 4 farms in KS as well. I usually spend 6 weeks there from November through December. I finally found me a lady that cuts my hair each year while I’m there LOL nice glad your enjoying it. Like mine very well too and I’ve tested almost every new one out there besides the ct3 and 5. At this point I have all the available mods at my draw length in 85%. so if y’all want any specifics while your waiting ask away. I hope to have all 4 mods in 80% as well very soon.
> 
> Yes I agree nothing harsh about it. One thing I did notice during all this is the draw cycle will get a little rougher when u run the bow 2-3lbs over peak weight with any givin mod. These mods have a little more pre tension into the cables at brace than years past and I think that’s the cause of it. As u see a lot of people getting bows in that at 2-4lbs over. If they will use the cables and string to bring the bow back down to .5 - 1lb of it’s intended peak weight for that mod it will be VERY smooth. It’s kinda crazy and through me off at first but I’ve tested it at 60 65 70 and 75 with 2 full twist added to the cables in each setting and then 2 twist removed which brough it back down within .5lb. It’s night and day.


very interesting info!!

thanks


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## gsphunter11 (Aug 23, 2016)

Headed to the local shop tomorrow. Trying to decide on the Triax and Vertix.


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## bboswell (Jul 29, 2003)

Bbd16 said:


> I’m in ATL I have a house and 4 farms in KS as well. I usually spend 6 weeks there from November through December. I finally found me a lady that cuts my hair each year while I’m there LOL nice glad your enjoying it. Like mine very well too and I’ve tested almost every new one out there besides the ct3 and 5. At this point I have all the available mods at my draw length in 85%. so if y’all want any specifics while your waiting ask away. I hope to have all 4 mods in 80% as well very soon.
> 
> Yes I agree nothing harsh about it. One thing I did notice during all this is the draw cycle will get a little rougher when u run the bow 2-3lbs over peak weight with any givin mod. These mods have a little more pre tension into the cables at brace than years past and I think that’s the cause of it. As u see a lot of people getting bows in that at 2-4lbs over. If they will use the cables and string to bring the bow back down to .5 - 1lb of it’s intended peak weight for that mod it will be VERY smooth. It’s kinda crazy and through me off at first but I’ve tested it at 60 65 70 and 75 with 2 full twist added to the cables in each setting and then 2 twist removed which brough it back down within .5lb. It’s night and day.


very interesting info!!

thanks


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## ganderss2424 (Dec 30, 2016)

Tagged 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## cantgeright38 (Jul 6, 2016)

Great post!!


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## Plane & Simple (Jun 25, 2016)

Tagged


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## golfernash (Feb 6, 2007)

Ttt


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## aklax11 (Dec 8, 2019)

tagged


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## Sivart (Mar 12, 2004)

Bbd16 said:


> Alright so was able to get my hands on a vertix earlier this week as I was very interested to see how things were effected as peak weight changed at the same DL. I usually run Mathews .5” shorter on DL remove the grip (1/8 thick) remove a couple twist from the aim string and run a little longer loop. Being that I like this grip I chose to run the bow right at peak weight. And the same length as I do bowtechs hoyts etc... This one came in from the factory spot on peak weight so I just ran with it.
> 
> Here’s the specs at 60lbs 27”
> 
> ...


Can I ask, what does starting the bottom of the shaft at center of the berger hole do for your pin float?


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