# Martin Threshold, cant get rid of tail high while paper tuning



## arrowshooters (Jun 5, 2006)

I would think you may be having a clearence issue with that rest. Did you try a bare shaft?


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## 122andy (Sep 12, 2011)

Bare shaft shows the same thing.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

31" ? It's billed as a 30" bow. Anyway, things to check. Bow at rest; Arrow should be intersecting berger hole (mounting hole for rest). The nocking point should be zero to 1/4" high.


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## 122andy (Sep 12, 2011)

Its a 2010. The 2010 had modules to 31". The 2011 only has modules that go to 30". The arrow intersects berger hole, nocking point is 3/16" above square.


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## 122andy (Sep 12, 2011)

As a note to anyone that is using a Threshold and isnt fond of the plastic modules, Martin does have them available in metal. I have one on order right now as the plastic F7 module broke so no tuning or anything right now.


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## skye5317 (Feb 28, 2009)

I was working on a 2010 the other day and had the same problem. Nothing I did made it any better. I started to wonder if that was the reason that they changed cams for 2011.


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## 122andy (Sep 12, 2011)

Really? Hmmm...can you give some more detail on that setup, skye? I guess I will give Martin a call. They seem a little understaffed in the tech department but at least they did return my call. It seems like the problem is above and beyond nock or rest position.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Trying to remember here; I don't think the Threshold has a positive draw stop as other Martin cams. As with other single cams the draw module acts as the draw stop, so a fairly soft wall. Martin's draw module is just a tad shorter in length - groove of module. If you draw hard enough the cable "bends" over the end of the draw module. This may be part of or the problem. Check; draw the bow until the cable lays flat in the groove of the draw mod and then see if you "naturally" draw a bit more.


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## 122andy (Sep 12, 2011)

Are you saying pulling to hard on the wall would cause consistent tail high? Or were you just saying that pulling too hard against the wall at full draw would lend itself to the plastic module breaking? I can definitely see the latter being an issue, the F7 is thinner than the shorter draw length modules. The bow has decent let-off though and I don't ever feel like I'm pulling crazy hard against the wall at full draw. Yes, the module has a flat spot that acts as the draw stop.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

I'm saying you can "overdraw" the bow. The Martin draw mods I've checked are fairly short, referring to the groove flat that acts as the draw stop. I think I measured something like 1.500" for Martin and other brands tend to start with lenghts of 2.00" and more - like 2.350". This doesn't seem that much, but it doesn't take much to make a difference.

No, I'm not saying you can break the module.

Best thing to do is have someone watch the cable at the mod while you draw and shoot.

I just set up a Leopard (single cam) yesterday. I set the nocking point 1/8" high and it came out great. The owner was shooting field points and fixed broadheads to same point of impact at her max. shooting distance of 25 yards. 

Describe your setup, loop and whatever. Things to look; unwanted contact. Loop not pinching the arrow nock < I like the loop spaced so the nock can move freely, .040 to .060". Top knot of loop being the nocking point.


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## 122andy (Sep 12, 2011)

I have adequate clearance between the release jaws and nock, and the enough spacing vertically so the d loop doesnt pinch the nock. The nock rests against the top knot. I just got the metal module in from Martin, will be installing it this weekend.


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## 454casull (Jan 7, 2005)

Are you using a peep with rubber tubing? I have seen it where if the tubing is too short it will have a similar affect. Also is the tiller correct? Sounds like you have a nock travel issue. With your wingspan I'd stick with the stiffer arrows, the 350 CEs 400s even at 29" will act too weak.


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## 122andy (Sep 12, 2011)

Its not a peep with the rubber tubing, I guess you would just call it a standard peep. According to the chart the Maximas are well within range at 60lbs draw(I think adjusted is 54lbs?), 29" arrow. It is on the upper range of the ST Epic 400s from what I gather. Regardless they both do the same thing, even the crappy Wal-Mart arrows. They actually all shoot the same POI with fieldpoints, the Maximas seem to group tighter than the others though.

Havent gotten to tiller stuff yet.


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## 122andy (Sep 12, 2011)

So I nocked up the broadheads again just for giggles, its shoots lights out. After all that messing I put everything back to the way it was and is shooting them fine(for now). Is it possible to have a bow that doesnt paper tune but shoots decent? Im ready to throw it out the window...although I am confident to hunt with it now.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

I think people in here have answered paper tuning questions to no end. No, paper tuning is just one step in the process of fine tuning a bow. Some of the finest shooting bows I've owned wouldn't paper tune or least wise wouldn't shoot bullet holes when tuned to perfection. Example; I've had bows the ripped paper high, right, left and combinations of and they shot great.


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## BadgerT (Mar 23, 2011)

If it's your hunting bow, your done with the paper. Just put the slick tricks on and fine tune rest/nock point adjs. to bring the two together and hunt with confidence.


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## 122andy (Sep 12, 2011)

Thats all I need to know, then. Thanks for the replies fellas. Now if I cant just get one in range...Im dying to let an arrow fly at some tasty venison for the first time!


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