# Yoke tuning



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

cleaver said:


> What is yoke tuning and why would someone do that? I read in another post that someone was yoke tuning because their broadheads were hitting left of their field points. Can someone please explain this to me? thanks


Draw board.

A backbone.

A 1/2-inch threaded pipe in the front.
Wrap with electrical tape.

Boat winch at the back end.

A pulling device to hold your bow at full draw, SAFELY.



Bow riser is leaning sideways.

So,
add a broom stick.



So,
use the boat winch to pull the bowstring to full draw.



I taped two business cards, to show you what ZERO cam lean looks like,
when at full draw.



TOP axle is level,
when the bow riser is straight up and down.

The cam, on top
is at 90 degrees to the limbs on top.

THAT is zero cam lean...when at full draw.



So,
up on top,
you have the buss cable legs,
the YOKE legs
attached to the left and right end of the top axle.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

You press the bow,
and you adjust the LEFT LEG length (add/remove twists)
and
you adjust the RIGHT LEG length (add/remove twists).

Until you get THIS result,
FOR STARTERS,
when your bow is at full draw.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

When you get to this point..

NEXT,
you set the sTARTING sideways position of the arrow rest,
BEFORE you fire the first arrow.





No tape measure,
no laser.
Just your eyeballs.

FIGURE out how much to move the arrow rest sideways,
so the arrow BLOCKS the bowstring,
DEAD STRAIGHT ahead...

not crooked left,
not crooked right.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Now,
just fire your arrows, fletched arrows at 20 yards.

Say your groups look like this.



NOT bad.
NOT great.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Now,
DO not move the arrow rest.

Now,
do nothing to the yoke legs...NOT YET.


TUNE your bow draw length 1/4-inch SHORTER or
1/4-inch LONGER.

I tuned my bow draw length 1/4-inch LONGER...cuz,
that's what my draw length test told me to do.

I got THIS result.



I moved the SIGHT windage
and the SIGHT elevation.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

So,
when do you YOKE tune?

goto 60 yards,
and make ONE yoke leg,
1/2 twist LONGER, or SHORTER
to make your 60 yard groups MUCH MORE SKINNY, left to right.

MOST folks do not bother
with tuning the draw length 1/4-inch SHORTER or LONGER

and go STRAIGHT to yoke leg tuning
and put a LOT of twists 
on ONE leg,
to make the TOP CAM lean SIGNIFICANTLY sideways...

when,
if they learned how to make the bow draw length
1/4-inch shorter or longer....

you would gain SPEED
and
you would have MUCH MUCH tighter groups,
by tuning,
by learning HOW to tune the bow draw length
1/4-inch SHORTER or LONGER.


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## 6APPEAL (Sep 1, 2009)

Another tag.


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## dartonpro4000 (Oct 12, 2010)

That's good stuff right there.


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## TMan51 (Jan 25, 2004)

cleaver said:


> I read in another post that someone was yoke tuning because their broadheads were hitting left of their field points.


I did not see the answer to that in N&B's response.

Generally, I use yoke tuning as that last tweak on the list of options. But I have not taken any notes on how it works for BH tuning. No answer here, but I am curious.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

I'm pretty much at loss of why yoke tuning even exists. 3 of my hunting bows have been extremely accurate with a big majority of mechanical and fixed broadheads. Two bows have been single cams with floating yokes and I still have one of them. I've French tuned and checked with French tune my old hunting bow so it's pin point accurate out to my imposed limit of 40 yards. Not said enough, French tuning needs taken a step farther with playing with rest height or nock point position or both to see if groups can be tightened. Actually, this bow is every bit as accurate as my 3D bow. 

My last hunting bow is a binary cam bow, no yokes to play with. I French tuned it, tweaked here and there, and it is accurate out to the longest I tested it, 40 yards. First time out hunting with it and my blew through a 250 pound buck from 28 yards. Good enough.....


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## bbjavelina (Jan 30, 2005)

Yoke tuning seems very effective for me. 

I set up the rest and nock for center and do a quick modified French tune. Then it's on to bareshafts. This is where yoke tuning really shines. Once the bareshafts are good it's time for broadheads. Usually nothing needed here but the very minor tweak from time to time. 

Very little yoke tuning seems necessary if the bow is set-up properly. It's amazing to me (yes, I know, it doesn't take much) how easy it is to walk bareshafts and broadheads around the target. Field points and broadheads in the same hole is the reward. 

Best of luck to you.


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## Viper04 (Feb 8, 2006)

tag


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## conquest428 (Nov 26, 2014)

Tagged


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## TheTracker (Sep 11, 2009)

Yoke tuning works great for me.


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## dartonpro4000 (Oct 12, 2010)

It's the only way to go on a dual can bow.


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## bonecollector66 (Mar 2, 2011)

tag


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