# Can't shake left tare V3. Lil help?



## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Are all of those tares under the same conditions? No adjustments between? Bareshaft shot under the same configuration as In Label facing the same direction everytime? How far from paper are you shooting from?


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## Chad61610 (Feb 3, 2021)

Bbd16 said:


> Are all of those tares under the same conditions? No adjustments between? Bareshaft shot under the same configuration as In Label facing the same direction everytime? How far from paper are you shooting from?


Six feet from paper. I made adjustments to the rest left than right several times. Adjusting left or right did not change the left tare just how much it tore. Worked my way out to the full adjustment in both directions. Did not adjust/turn the nock on the arrow so yes the label of the arrow was in the same place each time. One of the tare's is with a fleched arrow.


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Adjust the top hat so that u move one of the 2 cams in the direction of the tare left in your case. Then Set the center shot back so the arrow is parallel to the riser or just eyeball it down the center of the front stabilizer. See what that gives you. If not enough move the other cam in the same direction. If not good enough order top hat kit and follow those same instructions until it’s clean. There are other ways to move that bareshaft without touching the bow. I’m just completely relying on you having good form and moving straight to the bow. If you know your form needs work then work on that before worrying about bareshaft tuning.


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## Chad61610 (Feb 3, 2021)

Bbd16 said:


> Adjust the top hat so that u move one of the 2 cams in the direction of the tare left in your case. Then Set the center shot back so the arrow is parallel to the riser or just eyeball it down the center of the front stabilizer. See what that gives you. If not enough move the other cam in the same direction. If not good enough order top hat kit and follow those same instructions until it’s clean. There are other ways to move that bareshaft without touching the bow. I’m just completely relying on you having good form and moving straight to the bow. If you know your form needs work then work on that before worrying about bareshaft tuning.


Will try the top hat cam adjust. I just tuned my other bow today for 2 different arrows and got bullet holes easy with just a little effort so I think my form is fine?


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## Theerizz (Jun 7, 2016)

so is the rest set at center shot? or are you adjusting the rest?


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## Theerizz (Jun 7, 2016)

I just set up my trx 34 a couple days ago, got it shooting bullet holes by setting the nock point so that the bottom of the arrow ran through the middle of the berger hole, set the rest at center shot at 13/16". I was getting nock left tear so i adjusted the tophats. getting bullet holes from 10 yards.

Did the same with my brothers v3 today.

I included my thread from a few days ago. Lots of great info from a bunch of people in there.









Tuning advice


Always learn something when I read Alan's posts...now I have to mark this thread so I can get back to it if needed. Me too...




www.archerytalk.com


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## Chad61610 (Feb 3, 2021)

Theerizz said:


> so is the rest set at center shot? or are you adjusting the rest?


center and adjust.


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## Chad61610 (Feb 3, 2021)

Bbd16 said:


> Adjust the top hat so that u move one of the 2 cams in the direction of the tare left in your case. Then Set the center shot back so the arrow is parallel to the riser or just eyeball it down the center of the front stabilizer. See what that gives you. If not enough move the other cam in the same direction. If not good enough order top hat kit and follow those same instructions until it’s clean. There are other ways to move that bareshaft without touching the bow. I’m just completely relying on you having good form and moving straight to the bow. If you know your form needs work then work on that before worrying about bareshaft tuning.


Well......I just tried not pulling into the back wall and it got better. Using a Silver back. Tried a hinge and If I valley sit and work the release I get bullet holes....so ??? Weird because on the TRX I get Bullet holes when I'm in the wall but the V3 I cannot put any tension on the wall.??


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Chad61610 said:


> Well......I just tried not pulling into the back wall and it got better. Using a Silver back. Tried a hinge and If I valley sit and work the release I get bullet holes....so ??? Weird because on the TRX I get Bullet holes when I'm in the wall but the V3 I cannot put any tension on the wall.??


Changing releases effect tune. 110%. Changing the SPEED of your hinge will effect bareshaft results. Secondly By pulling harder and softer into the wall you are changing your grip pressure which is changing your bareshaft result. For a RIGHT handed shooter with a left tare so this tells me you have too much thumb pad pressure on the right side of the grip. ( your knuckles rolled back towards you too far). Roll those knuckles towards the target and you’ll see a nock right tare. If you have good understanding to how form effects tune from 10 yards you should be able to dance that bareshaft from right to left of a vertical piece of tape. Meaning at 10 yards u can create a tail left and you can create a tail right very easily without adjusting anything but grip.


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## Jjank589 (Jun 6, 2018)

Sounds like your tuning is on point so it cpuld be some type of torque issue due to the grip on that particular bow and the force used for shot execution. I had similar issues with my RevoltX and hook last year. Realized I had a minor grip issue which contributed to my paper tuning issues. Adjusted my grip and made the world of difference.


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## Chad61610 (Feb 3, 2021)

Update #1:
It is true form and swapping releases can and will change the effect however, I purchased a top hat kit and everything cleaned up and my sight is now centered instead of maxed out to one side lol go figure.

Update #2: Shortly after getting everything dialed in I traded the bow ...... gluten for punishment.
In all honesty I experimented with some longer ATA bows and found out I am more comfortable with a longer ATA bow.

I am experimenting with adjustable draw cable stops now (could not do it with my mathews) and find my pin float reduces dramatically when my bottom stop hits ever so slightly first creating more pressure on the bottom base of my hand. Your mileage may vary.

What a rabbit hole archery is becoming. I am really enjoying it though.


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