# Peep sight twisting while drawing.



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

I know by twisting the string you can align the peep. I cannot figure out how to keep the peep from turning while drawing back. I finaly got the peep to turn to the right position at full draw, but that isn't a solution. I had to move my peep up the string because it was too low and I felt crowded when I drew back. Now it is more comfortable but I have the peep issue. I have synced my cams reciently also. Did some twisting there also if that helps.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## big44a4 (Dec 23, 2016)

Add or remove twists from string when it's in a press. Had to take out a twist when I recently moved my peep then it's been on point since 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wannaBelkhuntin (Jul 3, 2006)

As big said add or remove a twist, also you need to twist your D loop a little bit to fine tune your alignment.


----------



## edthearcher (Nov 2, 2002)

as you draw the string back is it rotating as you draw??? if so you must make sure your peep is in the exact center of the string bundle, example if its a red and black string all the red must be on one side the black on the other. next problem to try is your peep facing left or right from center, if so line up the D loop with the peep direction. some times people put the center serving on to tight this also causes problems


----------



## Lennyb1 (Jul 6, 2013)

did the issue just start after moving the peep? or has it been that way? Maybe your peep is tied in incorrectly? sometimes being tied in too tight will cause peep rotation as you draw. Are you using factory strings? they are sometimes the worst at peep rotation.


----------



## erichall84 (Aug 20, 2013)

Twist or untwist string. For lesser adjustments use the bottom string end loop. For larger adjustments use the top end loop.

Sent from my SM-J700T1 using Tapatalk


----------



## deadquiet (Jan 25, 2005)

Get use to it.......even with good strings it will always need tweaking on occasion.


----------



## Whitetip Hunter (Jul 27, 2006)

deadquiet said:


> Get use to it.......even with good strings it will always need tweaking on occasion.


Not me. Mine never turn while drawing. Or I fix it, string twisting or new string. 

OP try twisting the lower end of the string opposite of the way the peep rotates. If better/good you are on the right track. If worse go the other way. If that does fix it go back to where you started and do the same thing with the top end of string.

If that doesn't work I would get a new string.


----------



## redwings423 (May 28, 2015)

Lennyb1 said:


> Maybe your peep is tied in incorrectly? sometimes being tied in too tight will cause peep rotation as you draw. Are you using factory strings? they are sometimes the worst at peep rotation.


I'd look at this on yours. I'm amazed how bad some peeps are tied in. This has worked excellent for me, note the part about not pinching the natural V:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2078753&highlight=Peep+Tie+How+TOny219er


----------



## lownote (Feb 13, 2014)

edthearcher said:


> as you draw the string back is it rotating as you draw??? if so you must make sure your peep is in the exact center of the string bundle, example if its a red and black string all the red must be on one side the black on the other. next problem to try is your peep facing left or right from center, if so line up the D loop with the peep direction. some times people put the center serving on to tight this also causes problems


This is optimal, but sometimes the number of twists in the string don't allow for the peep to face where you want it to when you draw. You can try this if you don't want to change the length of your string (changing ATA). With the bow pressed, take a strand or two from one side of the peep to the other. If you move a couple of strands from the left to the right, take a couple of strands from the back side of your peep and move them from right to left, to keep the same number of strands on either side. This will change your rotation. You'll just have to experiment to figure out how many to move. If its going the wrong direction, do the opposite.


----------



## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello
You need to train your peep. No need to add or remove twist,
If interested. Will go deeper. [ Later


----------



## deermyster (Jun 18, 2016)

Op. I understand exactly what you are talking about. The only way your peep is straight at full draw is when it is to one side at rest. If straight at rest you draw back and it twist to one side or the other. Adding or taking twist out of your string will not fix that. No you cannot train the string to do right in this situation. Is this a new bow that you have gotten resisently, or had a new set of strings put on? If one of those then it is a serving promblem and only fix and I stress "only" fix is to reserve peep area. Twisting strings is not the only way and sometimes want fix problem at all


----------



## Troy F (Oct 30, 2015)

Remove Peep?
Add Kisser button. I removed mine 15 years ago, one less thing to worry about.


----------



## agwrestler (Dec 31, 2010)

Any silencers/leeches *IN* the string? At 70-80% letoff there's less tension on the string and those elastomer pieces could expand and change orientation of the peep slightly.


----------



## agwrestler (Dec 31, 2010)

^^^Maybe not. I just thought about the DFC and how tension at brace should be close to tension at full draw.


----------



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

edthearcher said:


> as you draw the string back is it rotating as you draw??? if so you must make sure your peep is in the exact center of the string bundle, example if its a red and black string all the red must be on one side the black on the other. next problem to try is your peep facing left or right from center, if so line up the D loop with the peep direction. some times people put the center serving on to tight this also causes problems


I do have it centered. All green on one side all black on the other. It does rotate as I draw back and I do have the d-loop aligned with it. I have it twisted so that it alignes right when I draw back at least.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

Lennyb1 said:


> did the issue just start after moving the peep? or has it been that way? Maybe your peep is tied in incorrectly? sometimes being tied in too tight will cause peep rotation as you draw. Are you using factory strings? they are sometimes the worst at peep rotation.


It did start when I moved the peep. Right now I just have it tied around the center so I can adjust it without it flying out. It is not a factory string.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

agwrestler said:


> Any silencers/leeches *IN* the string? At 70-80% letoff there's less tension on the string and those elastomer pieces could expand and change orientation of the peep slightly.


None

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## copterdoc (Oct 9, 2005)

mgwelder said:


> ......It does rotate as I draw back and I do have the d-loop aligned with it.......


So at brace, both the peep and your D-loop, are pointing off to the side?


----------



## cnvf250 (Oct 15, 2012)

Serving could be too tight or too loose.


----------



## Snuggly_Jason (Oct 4, 2016)

The issue starts happening when your string stretches and/or when your D-loop starts creeping up on the string. The serving starts separating a little too on your d-loop and that can make your peep rotate left when drawing back, but be straight when at rest. One solution that is actually quite easy, is to over rotate the peep the opposite direction that it is turning when drawing back. It will probably be too far rotated the wrong way at full draw. At this point try and turn your d-loop a little to the left if your peep is too far to the right. Now draw back your bow 5 times or so. The knots on the d loop will tighten back to their new position while the serving on the string settles the peep in. This may fix your problem till your string stretches a little more, or your peep creeps up or down, or your d-loop creeps up the string again. So many things affect it. You just need to over compensate with twisting the peep until it settles in at the right position at full draw.

Now that you know how to "train" your peep. There is a quick and dirty solution. Get one of those string silencers that split your string down the middle, and install it above your peep. If you need your peep rotated, all it takes is to move your string silencer up or down the string. Now it completely depends on if you want a slower(but quieter) bow in order to quickly fix peep rotation.


----------



## deermyster (Jun 18, 2016)

If it is due to serving problem you will not"train" a dloop in that situation. If serving is to tight needs to be reserved if you want peep and dloop straight at rest and at full draw. Best solution is learn how to reserve that section and not use bandaides. That mess is for the ones that don't know how. No disrespect to anyone, but if theirs a problem learn and fix the problem, not do something to "get by". If you can serve a peep read a little and you can reserve your peep area, and all the problems are corrected.


----------



## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello
Quote = If it is due to serving problem you will not"train" a dloop in that situation.

Reply = no problem. I say just pump it. [ Later


----------



## Snuggly_Jason (Oct 4, 2016)

deermyster said:


> If it is due to serving problem you will not"train" a dloop in that situation. If serving is to tight needs to be reserved if you want peep and dloop straight at rest and at full draw. Best solution is learn how to reserve that section and not use bandaides. That mess is for the ones that don't know how. No disrespect to anyone, but if theirs a problem learn and fix the problem, not do something to "get by". If you can serve a peep read a little and you can reserve your peep area, and all the problems are corrected.


You mean no disrespect while basically disrespecting....you CAN train a peep to be corrected because I do it with every bow I have had after the string has finally settled in. You don't need to reserve in the whole damn peep.


----------



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

Snuggly_Jason said:


> You mean no disrespect while basically disrespecting....you CAN train a peep to be corrected because I do it with every bow I have had after the string has finally settled in. You don't need to reserve in the whole damn peep.


The peep has not been fully served in yet. Just wrapped around the peep while adjusting height. And to keep it from flying out.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Snuggly_Jason (Oct 4, 2016)

mgwelder said:


> The peep has not been fully served in yet. Just wrapped around the peep while adjusting height. And to keep it from flying out.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


A twisted peep is a result of your string turning within your serving going around your cams/idler wheel. That's why I suggested over turning it beyond what it needed to be straight, drawing it back a few times, and hopefully allowing it to settle in the right spot. Your d-loop also may need to be over turned in one direction and pulled back to get everything lined up. Reserving the peep in literally does nothing because you still need to put the peep in that same spot to be the right height for you. SO you are left adding twists to the string, or putting a string silencer in above the peep and sliding it up and down as needed to put the peep in alignment.


----------



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

Snuggly_Jason said:


> A twisted peep is a result of your string turning within your serving going around your cams/idler wheel. That's why I suggested over turning it beyond what it needed to be straight, drawing it back a few times, and hopefully allowing it to settle in the right spot. Your d-loop also may need to be over turned in one direction and pulled back to get everything lined up. Reserving the peep in literally does nothing because you still need to put the peep in that same spot to be the right height for you. SO you are left adding twists to the string, or putting a string silencer in above the peep and sliding it up and down as needed to put the peep in alignment.


I understand. I got a pm from nuts and bolts on how to twist too and bottom of string to get realigned. I will begin the process tomorrow afternoon.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello
Turn that bow string several times till very tight and hold with your hand under the peep. Now pre draw it several times till you set the peep and serving to the peep. 

Now use a pre draw pump motion. Don't full draw. [ Later


----------



## deermyster (Jun 18, 2016)

Snuggly_Jason said:


> You mean no disrespect while basically disrespecting....you CAN train a peep to be corrected because I do it with every bow I have had after the string has finally settled in. You don't need to reserve in the whole damn peep.


You are wrong. First off I didn't say reserve the peep. I said reserve the serving in the dloop location. If a peep is straight at rest and u twist sting and it still does it, you "can not" train the peep. The only way to fix this situation is to reserve the area that thing you hook your release to. You know it's called a dioop. After serving then replace the dloop and problem solved. Most times you can simply give the string a twist or so and fix it, once in a while you can tame a peep, but in "this" situation it is a serving problem and serving on string at dloop area has to be reserved. Now please make sure you correctly read before you become agitated and say something that makes no sense. Wow. The folks on here that give bad advice and then become mad when called out. Reserve the string..Or keep playing with the peep Everytime you take a shot....Outta hereeee


----------



## NP Archery (Jul 29, 2008)

From a post of mine a while back on this subject.....
If the string ROTATES on the draw, send it back or replace it. There should be zero rotation in a string and most string builders will tell you that.*
A peep should be straight at brace and at full draw. Keep at it until it's right or find someone that can get it straight. Swapping strands is a fix someone dreamed up and is , again IMO, the worst way to get a peep straight. A D-loop offset on a string is a sure bet someone is working with limited tools or they gave up and called it good enough.*
There, I said it. ....


----------



## KRONIIK (Jun 3, 2014)

NP Archery said:


> From a post of mine a while back on this subject.....
> If the string ROTATES on the draw, send it back or replace it. There should be zero rotation in a string and most string builders will tell you that.*
> A peep should be straight at brace and at full draw. Keep at it until it's right or find someone that can get it straight. Swapping strands is a fix someone dreamed up and is , again IMO, the worst way to get a peep straight. A D-loop offset on a string is a sure bet someone is working with limited tools or they gave up and called it good enough.*
> There, I said it. ....


 So I've had a string from a custom builder with a solid reputation. 
Once it was shot in a bit it worked well, but I've since re-served with smaller serving thread and changed the peep out a couple times since. Now it's turning a quarter-turn or more from brace to full draw. 
Is it most likely that I served it too tightly or what do you think is the cause/cure?


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

KRONIIK said:


> So I've had a string from a custom builder with a solid reputation.
> Once it was shot in a bit it worked well, but I've since re-served with smaller serving thread and changed the peep out a couple times since. Now it's turning a quarter-turn or more from brace to full draw.
> Is it most likely that I served it too tightly or what do you think is the cause/cure?


String was not under enough tension, when you installed the new serving. Serving tool had too much drag tension. So, take the bowstring off the bow, and stretch to 300 lbs or tighter, and put a 2-inch length of serving thread between the two colors of the bowstring. This will be your FLAG. Test the drag tension on the serving tool by wrapping say 1/2 inch of serving. IF the FLAG is waving at you, the stretching tension is not tight enough, and the serving tool drag tension is too high. You can also use string clamps, to not allow the bowstring to twist, when you are spinning the serving tool.


----------



## lees (Feb 10, 2017)

NP Archery said:


> From a post of mine a while back on this subject.....
> If the string ROTATES on the draw, send it back or replace it. There should be zero rotation in a string and most string builders will tell you that.*
> A peep should be straight at brace and at full draw. Keep at it until it's right or find someone that can get it straight. Swapping strands is a fix someone dreamed up and is , again IMO, the worst way to get a peep straight. A D-loop offset on a string is a sure bet someone is working with limited tools or they gave up and called it good enough.*
> There, I said it. ....


I've been known, in a pinch, to superglue the D-loop onto the center serving in the exact right position on a string I didn't care about and intended to replace that night. I actually ended up shooting the string I'm referring to for another 6 months with it like that, though I did finally replace it. 

That, of course, is a horrible fix but you do what you gotta do to get through the round. 

If the peep is actually rotating on the draw, the string has been ruined or it wasn't made right to start with. If the peep is just offset a little bit and 1/2 turn is way too much like it is on my PSE, a cheater in the string is the way to go. 

The key there is the width of the cheater, so it adds/subtracts just the right amount of twist. It needs to be flat, at least somewhat stiff and of a certain width, which you have to find through experimentation for each string and how much it's off. Lately, I've experimented with a piece of stiff plastic cut from the plastic box my AAE vanes came in. With heat shrink tubing very carefully applied over it to not cut or abrade the string when I slide it in. Got my latest string just about spot on. 

I agree with nuts& bolts about replacing a center serving. You kind of have to take it off and do it on a jig under stress and with string clamps...

lee.


----------



## KRONIIK (Jun 3, 2014)

Thanks, Alan and Lee. 
I just served it while still on the bow; obviously didn't have *nearly* enough stretching tension. 
(Not a string expert at all; I never really even considered that it would matter enough to cause trouble...) 

Any recommendations on plans for a homemade device to stretch it?


----------



## lees (Feb 10, 2017)

KRONIIK said:


> Thanks, Alan and Lee.
> I just served it while still on the bow; obviously didn't have *nearly* enough stretching tension.
> (Not a string expert at all; I never really even considered that it would matter enough to cause trouble...)
> 
> Any recommendations on plans for a homemade device to stretch it?


Uh oh. Now you're approaching the precipice of the string-maker slippery slope . Meaning, by the time you end up either DIY'ing or buying something that can handle the 300-odd pounds you need to do a basic center serving job, you almost have a suitable string making jig. And you start thinking, hrm, instead of just repairing this old string how much more money do I have to spend to just slap make my own new one? And then your life slowly starts to change in that direction if you;re not careful....

Just a warning, you could get sucked in like I did and end up with the full Johnson in your living room. Big piece of unichannel and a full jig from Butch Baker, 2 Beiter serving jigs, boxes of tools and parts.... If your wallet wasn't already in pain before, well.....

This could happen to you too! 

lee.


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

KRONIIK said:


> Thanks, Alan and Lee.
> I just served it while still on the bow; obviously didn't have *nearly* enough stretching tension.
> (Not a string expert at all; I never really even considered that it would matter enough to cause trouble...)
> 
> Any recommendations on plans for a homemade device to stretch it?


If you have a draw board, then, use the boat winch as the stretching device. I have a spring scale that reads to 300 lbs of tension. Want to get the bowstring nice and tight. Need 300 lbs of tension so you can dial in about 5-6 lbs of drag tension on the serving tool. Basically, set the serving tool to a drag tension that FEELS reasonable, that FEELS about 5-6 lbs. Then, just cut a short length of serving thread and stuff it between the two colors of your bowstring. Crank on the boat winch, and try to install a short length of serving, with your serving tool. IF the FLAG is waving at you back and forth, the serving tool tension drag is TOO TIGHT, or more likely, you did not crank on the bowstring TIGHT enough with the boat winch. IT takes an incredible amount of stretching tension with the boat winch, to have zero twisting of the bowstring (zero movement of the FLAG). So, you can help things, by using two clamps, to clamp onto the bowstring, above and below where you want to install the serving.



TWO of these will lock down the bowstring, and prevent any twisting of the bowstring. You want the bowstring motionless, when you are spinning the serving tool.


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

lees said:


> Uh oh. Now you're approaching the precipice of the string-maker slippery slope . Meaning, by the time you end up either DIY'ing or buying something that can handle the 300-odd pounds you need to do a basic center serving job, you almost have a suitable string making jig. And you start thinking, hrm, instead of just repairing this old string how much more money do I have to spend to just slap make my own new one? And then your life slowly starts to change in that direction if you;re not careful....
> 
> Just a warning, you could get sucked in like I did and end up with the full Johnson in your living room. Big piece of unichannel and a full jig from Butch Baker, 2 Beiter serving jigs, boxes of tools and parts.... If your wallet wasn't already in pain before, well.....
> 
> ...


NICE setup.


----------



## ex-wolverine (Dec 31, 2004)

What bow is it?



mgwelder said:


> I understand. I got a pm from nuts and bolts on how to twist too and bottom of string to get realigned. I will begin the process tomorrow afternoon.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## lees (Feb 10, 2017)

nuts&bolts said:


> NICE setup.


Yep, the best you can buy. But it's NOT required to make quality strings. You can just pay-as-you-go, making your own jig from semi-regular trips to the hardware store. It adds up, but usually you can reuse stuff you already have around the house and save some money. 

I found a DIY forum on here when I joined not too long ago that details how to do a homemade jig for a very decent price and a little labor. And those guys make commercial quality strings too.

Warning: your scores will drop and big time once you start making your own strings because it's so awesomely fun. They'll come back up later, though, once the sheen wears off and making cables becomes kind of a pain in the rear .

lee.


----------



## KRONIIK (Jun 3, 2014)

I really don't *want* to fall into the string-*making* rabbit-hole, but I do have a 300 pound spring scale and a sturdy Unistrut drawboard with winch I built last year, so maybe I'm already halfway there without any big cash outlays!
I also have a few nice Bessey clamps to clamp the string as Alan suggested to help get my peep rotation issues fixed for now.

Afternoon project well underway already.

Thanks, Guys!


----------



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

ex-wolverine said:


> What bow is it?


Arena 34

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## ex-wolverine (Dec 31, 2004)

mgwelder said:


> Arena 34
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


Stock string right? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

ex-wolverine said:


> Stock string right?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No made localy around here at a proshop.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

mgwelder said:


> No made localy around here at a proshop.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


Its been on my bow around 9 mos. Moved it up about half an inch for a better fit, now it rotates. Been reading about the center cerving and wondering...

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## KRONIIK (Jun 3, 2014)

Sorry to hijack your thread a bit *mgwelder*; I hope the other guys' answers to my problem helps you a little...


----------



## deerbum (Oct 16, 2014)

mgwelder said:


> Its been on my bow around 9 mos. Moved it up about half an inch for a better fit, now it rotates. Been reading about the center cerving and wondering...
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


I had the same issue with my string last year. The peep was fine until I slid it up and then began to rotate on the draw. I ended up removing the peep, think I then shot it a few times to settle the strands, and reinserted the peep in the correct location, problem solved. It was something to do with compressing the twists above the peep that created the condition.


----------



## lees (Feb 10, 2017)

that should settle down after a few shots, though. One thing I do when I add a cheater or move the peep or do anything that bunches up the strands is "pre shoot in" the string by doing a quick, light burnish on the unserved areas with a leather shoelace, one wrap around the string. I just go up and then down one pass with the string on the bow. That usually resettles the strands and the peep is very close if not spot on where it's ultimately going to end up after I shoot it fully in.

lee.


----------



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

deerbum said:


> I had the same issue with my string last year. The peep was fine until I slid it up and then began to rotate on the draw. I ended up removing the peep, think I then shot it a few times to settle the strands, and reinserted the peep in the correct location, problem solved. It was something to do with compressing the twists above the peep that created the condition.


Im glad you got it solved. 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Troy F (Oct 30, 2015)

Or remove it all together...


----------



## ex-wolverine (Dec 31, 2004)

Take it back to your builder and ask them whats up? They can probably help you better than anyone here when it comes to *their* string



mgwelder said:


> No made localy around here at a proshop.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk





mgwelder said:


> Its been on my bow around 9 mos. Moved it up about half an inch for a better fit, now it rotates. Been reading about the center cerving and wondering...
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

mgwelder said:


> Its been on my bow around 9 mos. Moved it up about half an inch for a better fit, now it rotates. Been reading about the center cerving and wondering...
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


Let me guess. You just slid it up rather than taking it out, letting the bundle come back together and then re-splitting the bundles to put the peep in?

If so, mark the location with a sharpie. Take it out of the string and take the bow out of the press. Shoot the bow a couple times and then re-install the peep.


----------



## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

Just a little info for the people reading at home. 

Peeps rotating while drawing the bow can be caused by several things. Several of them happen while building the string and may not be something you can correct without a new string. Here's a quick list of things that can cause the peep to rotate while drawing the bow.

1. Uneven bundle tension. This happens while the string is being built and it puts more tension on one half of the bundle. This is not something that can be fixed and will always cause it to rotate.

2. Serving too tightly. This also happens while building and will cause the peep to rotate by forcing too many twists under the serving. This makes the twists under the serving unequal to the twists in the exposed string. When drawing and shooting the bow, the two different twist rates will want to equalize and this will cause the peep to rotate. It will also cause the peep to change position as the twist rate equalizes. This one may be able to be remedied by just shooting the bow a bunch. If the twist rate is too different though, it may take hundreds if not thousands of shots. This can also happen if you're reserving the string and not properly tensioning the string.

3. Serving the string backwards on a section. If you do not serve the string in the proper rotation and direction of travel for the twist direction on the string, the serving will force the twists out from under the serving and into the exposed areas of the string. Can't fix this unless you re-serve the string. This can also happen if the person reserving or repairing the string doesn't pay attention or know what they're doing.

4. Tying the peep in too tightly. If you smash the triangles above and below the peep, it can make a perfectly built string have peep rotation. Don't do it. Easy to fix though.

5. Sliding a peep up or down the string. This will force the twist above and below the peep to be uneven. Don't do it. It can also damage the string. Just remove the peep and re-install.


----------



## greatlakes2 (Apr 18, 2017)

yikes


----------



## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Unk Bond said:


> Hello
> Turn that bow string several times till very tight and hold with your hand under the peep. Now pre draw it several times till you set the peep and serving to the peep.
> 
> Now use a pre draw pump motion. Don't full draw. [ Later


=============
Hello
So simple but fell on deaf ears :grin: [ Later


----------



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

Huntinsker said:


> Let me guess. You just slid it up rather than taking it out, letting the bundle come back together and then re-splitting the bundles to put the peep in?
> 
> If so, mark the location with a sharpie. Take it out of the string and take the bow out of the press. Shoot the bow a couple times and then re-install the peep.


You are right, that is what I did

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

Huntinsker said:


> Just a little info for the people reading at home.
> 
> Peeps rotating while drawing the bow can be caused by several things. Several of them happen while building the string and may not be something you can correct without a new string. Here's a quick list of things that can cause the peep to rotate while drawing the bow.
> 
> ...


I did #5. The rest dont apply.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## cnvf250 (Oct 15, 2012)

Huntinsker said:


> Just a little info for the people reading at home.
> 
> Peeps rotating while drawing the bow can be caused by several things. Several of them happen while building the string and may not be something you can correct without a new string. Here's a quick list of things that can cause the peep to rotate while drawing the bow.
> 
> ...


Excellent write up. I will add that I struggle sometimes trying to get that perfect PEEP height and have it perfectly inline. Which side of the bundle do I install the PEEP on? What happens to the PEEP if I need to add a twist or half twist to the top? What happens to the PEEP if I have add to the the bottom cam? Out of all the things I can to do with a bow I find adjusting the PEEP the most difficult. I do suffer from OCD so I cannot except adjusting the D-loop to correct PEEP misalignment. In fact, I have gotten to the point where I remove the D-loop prior to PEEP installation just so It is out of my mind. Of course I use tied nock points as a reference and set my PEEP 6 3/8 from the center of the nock pint.

I know it is mental for me. I just wonder of other suffer from the same thing. I will say that good string builders like JBK and others make it easier to get things lined up without rotation.


----------



## Troy F (Oct 30, 2015)

Remove peep.
Throw in trash.
Kisser button 1" above D Loop.
Solved. The perfect hunting set up.


----------



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

I went ahead and bought new strings and cables. Better quality than I had. No more peep issue.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


----------



## Troy F (Oct 30, 2015)

To all viewers of this thread. I am glad the situation was resolved and the peep worked out. Seriously.

But please, please, consider simplifying your life for bowhunting. 3-d and all that jazz, peep is ok. Bowhunting, it will cost you when it rotates weird, when the light is weird and it is a huge hassle if you decide to go pig hunting at night. Good gosh I saw Shockey hunting moose and 2X the peep screwed him. He eventually got the shot....but he does that all the time.

Just saying, when this type of thread pops up again, consider the Ranch Fairy's advice. Throw peep in trash when it misbehaves. If it doesn't EVER misbehave, its your choice.
You can always put a peep back in........


----------

