# 35# recurve arrow? Please HELP...



## ChadMR82 (Sep 22, 2009)

What arrow do I need for a 35# recurve? The arrow will be about 30 inches with a 100-125 grain field point. The Easton charts put me at a 2114 or XX75 Gamegetter 500 which is a 2016 shaft. My buddy shoots this same arrow in a 50# recurve so I have a feeling the Easton chart is way off. I am thinking about a 1916. What do you guys think? I would prefer to stay with an aluminum arrow since this is a practice bow.


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## ChadMR82 (Sep 22, 2009)

Would like to stick with Easton XX75 Gamegetter II arrows since they are cheap and easy to find. These aluminum arrows come in spines of 300, 400 and 500. The 500 is the 2016 shaft. Any idea if the 300 or 400 is a 1916 shaft?


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## trapperDave (Mar 12, 2005)

300 and 400 are even stiffer. its the amount of deflection in the shaft with a 2lb wgt hung on it in the center with the shaft resting on two posts 28 inches apart ( or a 1.94lb wgt hung with 26 inches between posts for modern AMO) You want something in the 600 range

IIRC the 400 would be a 2117 shaft or 2018...


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Chad - 

30" 1816 for GG2 (if they still make them, else Blues, Jazz or Platinum Plus). If they show a little weak, 1914, but that a P+ or X7 only shaft.

The Blues or Jazz are your cheapest bet. 

Viper1 out.


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

The lower the number, the larger/stiffer the shaft.


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## ChadMR82 (Sep 22, 2009)

Viper-
I dont want to wrap up much money in these arrow since it is a practice bow so should I start with 1816 and risk them being a little too light or go right to a 1916 which I am sure will be plenty. The Easton charts really suck!!


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## ahunter55 (Aug 17, 2009)

1st number is outside Dia. & 2nd is wall thickness. 1918 is same outside as 1916 BUT wall is thicker making it stiffer. Bigger # inside, stiffer the shaft.
I used to tourny shoot with a 42# Bow & 1614s @ 29". For your 30" draw I'm guessing a 1916 will shoot just fine if you can find them-you may or may not have to do some rest/sight adjusting. long draws really weaken the stiffness (any arrow material).

I used to experiment with arrows alot in the past & you can get almost "any" arrow to fly right with tuning. You have to be careful not to get to "WEAK" as a arrow could explode upon release.
This Deer was shot with a 65# Compound, 29" Easton 1916 silver 24srt-x tipped with a 125gr 3 blade Rocky Mountain Razor & 4, 4" vanes. They flew like bullets. Over the years I understand there IS a fine line for speed & penetration. I go 1 size smaller inside Dia. for tournys now (just started again) for a little more speed AND line cutters (It's just the score that counts-right) but heavy on the hunting shaft for penetration. Works for me... 

Availability in size would be your problem of today.. I have always had better grouping with Aluminums compared to "any" carbon. I tried them for 2 years. Good Luck.


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

Go with the 1916's. Easier and cheaper to tweak the spine lighter than stiffer. Additionally, fletching a helical fletch on a 19XX OD shaft is tricky enough.

Start with a full-length shaft and check the shaft performance. If showing signs of being too weak, shorten the shaft in 1/4" increments until dynamic spine is correct. You can also tweak a stiff shaft, using weight adapters. The 5 grain brass washers are perfect for doing so. Depending on the head used, 2 to 5 washers can be added.


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## ChadMR82 (Sep 22, 2009)

Thanks for the help so far guys. My draw is 28 inches and I figured I would have the arrows at 30 inches so that I could cut them to 29 inches if I need to. Just allows more tuning adjustments that way.


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## ahunter55 (Aug 17, 2009)

Oh, just a note-I shot nearly 20 years with recurves & fingers & a ton of tournys & Bowhunting.


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## CLASSICHUNTER (May 20, 2005)

35 lb bow 1716`s no problem 3 inch feathers and 50 grain glue in nibb cheap ones .. like darts and accurate.. I`m with ad hunter light arrows ....


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## ChadMR82 (Sep 22, 2009)

Also considering Gold Tip 3555. Of course this is only if the GT chart is correct. Let me know what you think.


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## trapperDave (Mar 12, 2005)

leave them full length (30" iirc) and use heavy tips and or brass inserts to weaken them a bit for a 35.


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## dadamsjr (Aug 8, 2010)

im shooting the blues in 1816 full length with 110gr tips and they are darts! also my bow is 42#, also viper helped me get setup!


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Chad -

Easton gets funcky with stuff.

17xx shafts are 29" full length. 18xx are 30" and 19xx are 31". At least that's what Easton says this week. 

The final decision depends on the bow (speed and degree of center shot). I'd go with 1816s with light points, since a slightly weak arrow can be easier to tune that a stiff one without resorting to extra heavy heads (slightly building out the rest or strike plate does it), but both the 18s and 19s can be made to work. but leave the 1916s 31".

Viper1 out.


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## ChadMR82 (Sep 22, 2009)

Okay last option. Thinking of Carbon Extreme Heritage 90's cut to 30 inches with 125 grain tip. Will see what happens.


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## dwong (Sep 7, 2010)

Just went thru the same situation moving into a heavyer weight bow.
I used Jazz arrows, they were cheap enough to experiment with($30/dz).
It was an eye opening experience.
1616 50gr on my 30lbs Recurve.
1816/1916 on my 43lb recurve with fast flight strings (using 1916 80gr tips) 
Do use a tunable rest?
I am glad I know where my bow like to shoot before I move up to carbons.


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