# browning wasp recourve.



## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

I once refinished a "Wasp" and I vaguely recall that the brace range was 6-1/4" - 7-1/4". If you are new to the "stick" I would tune the brace somewhere in the upper end of the scale.


> i asume i just twist the string to get the 55 lbs.


No; you twist and untwist the string to obtain the brace height you are shooting for...keep in mind that a higher brace usually quiets down a bow and helps lessen the chance of arm/wrist slap.

It is quite common that the actual [email protected]" is -/+ the draw-weight marked on the riser, but 8# less is a large variance. How did you determine the bow's draw-weight at 28"? If there is a strike-plate on the riser, gently remove it and the actual draw-weight should be marked in indelible ink beneath the plate.

How did you determine that you need 28" shafts? What is your draw-length on a recurve bow?


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## talonwolf37 (Jan 17, 2004)

well this may sound realy dumb,but i used a hand weight scale and drew the bow. for the arrow length,i drew the bow with an old arrow i have that is full length and had it marked. if i'm doing this wrong,please tell me. i could use all the help i can get. i know there is alot i need to learn about trad bows.

there is no strike-plate. just the writing on the side.


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## Carbon Jack (Jan 1, 2011)

I've owned a Wasp years ago and seem to remember it having a low brace height as recurves go. WindWalker is correct - try 7 inches and go up and down a quarter inch.

I kinda liked my old Wasp. It was about as short as I wanted to go but it shot OK.

Jack


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## Carbon Jack (Jan 1, 2011)

[QUOTE=talonwolf37;10597

I have a one inch wooden dowel marked off from 25 to 28 inches. This dowel is about 35 inches long. I notch one end like an arrow but with a very shallow notch. I place this "arrow" point down on a bathroom scale and then place the bow string on the top "notch" and push or pull the bow toward the scale. This loads the arrow (dowel) and activates the scale. You read your weight on the scale at the inch mark of your choice. Hope this is visually clear to you.

Jack


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

Knowing your actual draw-length and the actual draw-weight of the bow is vital to tuning the bow and using the correct arrow spine.

Don't try to establish your draw-length on that bow. The length and poundage is probably going to give you an incorrect reading. Take the bow to a bow shop and have the [email protected]" determined on a bow scale and have your draw-length determined on the standard low-poundage bow most shops have for determining draw-length. 

Before you do all that I strongly suggest you get a new string first if that string is also 2 years old. You will need a 52" _ actual_ length Dacron (B50), 14 strand if your draw-length does not exceed 28". 

-/+ draw-weight is roughly 2#. For each inch past 28" add 2# to the draw-weight. If less, subtract 2# for each inch less. _To be specific_, once you determine your draw-length, load an arrow an pull the shaft to your draw-length on the_ bow scale_


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## JimPic (Apr 8, 2003)

I have a few Brownings(8 actually)and the Wasp is one of the best shooters of the bunch. I brace mine at 8"....whisper quiet,no shock,and very well mannered


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

> _I have a few Brownings(8 actually)and the Wasp is one of the best shooters of the bunch. I brace mine at 8"....whisper quiet,no shock,and very well mannered_


I discovered that to be a common statement with other Wasp shooters. Also that many run their brace at 8" too.


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## talonwolf37 (Jan 17, 2004)

thank you guys for the help. i will take the bow to a shop and have it checked and find out what my draw is. i know it's 29 with my compounds. this bow has the holes for a screw on two piese quiver, but would a slip on quiver be better? it's wild how differant this is to me.


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