# consistency help



## BULLETBUSINESS (Dec 11, 2010)

Have been shooting by hunting bows for a couple years and absolutely love them. Purchased a target bow in December (had it fitted and tuned) but I swear it is possessed!!!! Got in a local league shooting 5 spot and cannot break the 280 barrier. I know that my fault lies in allowing the sight to fall below the x and then can't seem to get it back up there. Have tried moving off to the 9 o'clock position and then above it starting over but I fall back into the infamous "drive-by on the way up. Any drills I can work on to settle and stay somewhere in the x spot vicinity???? I live in Utah and would love to find a good coach locally that might be able to help. Thx-

BTW-I shoot everyday so practice time is NOT a problem. Good practice seems to be the issue..............


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## mike 66 (Jan 21, 2010)

first take a close look at the peep, shoot a few shots. dig in your anchor with your knuckles.. then come to anchor with your eyes closed hit the spot .. now without moving your head open your eyes.... the peep should be centered in the scope perfect.....if not it needs to be moved.....do this a few times... if you still come to anchor and its not dead center it needs a little movement at this stage just very small amounts till it perfect.. be careful not to damage the string.......this may take some time do the eye closed ,,,, then watch the line-up it may take a few days to get it right... watch your hits on the targets...it will tell you if your on the right track.if your shooting a 280 ill bet this is the issue .......................................your peep could also be to big ..hope this helps you get your 300 mike


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## BULLETBUSINESS (Dec 11, 2010)

there is exactly an inch difference between the peep and d-loop on my target bow and the peep and d-loop on both hunting bows. The target bow is an inch less than the two hunting bows. The ATA is substantially longer on the target bow as opposed to the ATA on the hunting bows-would that explain why there is such a difference or does that have any thing to do with it? Haven't had a chance to pull the bow and try what you explained but will tomorrow. Thx-hope it helps.........................


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Good advice from Mike on the peep. It's often the culprit when the pin is dropping.

The longer ATA on your target bow results in a less acute string angle. This means that it won't be as far up the string as a shorter bow with a more acute string angle.

A few other possibilities on the drooping pin problem:
-draw length too long - I'm not sure that any shops have the ability to determine the draw length on a target bow. Shorten it a little and see if that helps.

- loss of back tension when you relax into full draw. It's nearly impossible to re-establish good back tension without letting down.

- high bow shoulder - You will be much steadier if you keep your bow shoulder down. You shouldn't try to hold the bow up with your bow arm. Hold it away from you with the bow arm and hold it up with your back muscles. A lower shoulder makes this a lot easier.

- D-loop too long or too short - Many of us approach draw length in two parts. One is the DL of the bow and the other is the length of the D-loop.
The bow's DL needs to be short enough to avoid significant face/string contact, but long enough that you can get your nose on the string without tilting your head forward. The D-loop needs to be the right length so that your draw elbow is aligned with the arrow. This gives you good leverage in your back muscles to pull through the shot without struggling.

Hope this helps,
Allen


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## ron w (Jan 5, 2013)

a drill you can incorporate into your shooting is deliberately letting down any time that sight drops below the x.....the instant it drops below the x. don't try to push it back up one little bit.
eventually your shot process will learn to slow down and stop as it approaches the x , giving you the opportunity to settle in for the release execution.


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## archeryshooter (Apr 11, 2004)

If you do all that good stuff above and I would, and it does not help all the way you can also tiller tune by turning your bottom limb bolt out 1/4 turn at a time and see if it holds there better. It lets the top limb pull you up more helping keep the pin there. Also a rear stablizer can help there to by adding a little weight to it or taking off the front but first the bow should hold good bare without stables on. But do what those guys above said first. Hope this helps too.


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## BULLETBUSINESS (Dec 11, 2010)

All good thoughts. I'll give them a try this week end. Thx for your help!


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## BULLETBUSINESS (Dec 11, 2010)

moved the peep 1/2 an inch.....some help. shortened the draw-length 1/2 inch.....much help. I'm dangerous now-Thx!


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## archeryshooter (Apr 11, 2004)

Good deal


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## montigre (Oct 13, 2008)

BULLETBUSINESS said:


> moved the peep 1/2 an inch.....some help. shortened the draw-length 1/2 inch.....much help. I'm dangerous now-Thx!


With the changes made to your peep height and DL, keep in the back of your mind that you may also have to tweak your nocking point a little to see the best results.... :wink:


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## BULLETBUSINESS (Dec 11, 2010)

explain?


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## montigre (Oct 13, 2008)

When you make a large change to the DL, it also raises or lowers the nocking point relative to the pivot point of the bow. In your case, the DL change may have changed the nocking point to a more favorable position for you, but if things don't remain good for you after shooting the shorter length for a while, a small tweak to the nocking point may put things right again. 

When I was recently dialing in DL on my franken bow, I had to retime my cams several times and change my nocking point once before I settled on a comfortable spot for me that still allowed for good nock travel. 

When you change one thing on a bow, you usually change a couple of other things along with it. This is just something to keep in your back pocket if down the road something starts to feel off--not saying it is something that will definitely occur. :wink:


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Bows only seem to be mystical instruments ruled by unknown & evil spirits. In reality they are rather simple machines that follow all the laws of physics. The location of your nock changes the balance of the bow at full draw. A nock that is lower than the balance point will pull the string up and your sight down. A nock above the balance point will pull the string down and your sight up.

Tiller adjustments are a means of fine tuning the nock point. It's a step most effectively done later in the tuning process. Instead of going back and readjusting DL, timing,etc, a 1\8 turn of the limb bolt can save you a lot of time. For most archers & tuners, even tiller usually works better. It's actually a pretty advanced technique that most archers don't shoot good enough to take advantage of. However, don't hesitate to try it. You won't learn any other way.

Allen


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## Bees (Jan 28, 2003)

If you grip is good and form is good 
if you can get bare shaft to hit with fletched arrows at 18 meters
It's a good test that the nocking point is where it should be. 
and some will argue the bow isn't tuned until they are.
I use bare shaft as a test of my form and over all shooting wellness. 
The fletched and bare shafts are together. (most days)
If on another day they aren't, it tells me I am screwing something up
usually with my grip or other bad habits during my execution phase.
View attachment 1899071


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## montigre (Oct 13, 2008)

Thanks, Allen--you explained that a lot more eloquently than I....:wink: 

Are you planning on going to indoor nats at JMU this year? My 2 new recurve shooters that you met are going as am I for the experience and mental training :cheer2:


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## BULLETBUSINESS (Dec 11, 2010)

great info-thx


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