# Bear Game Over



## Cozmo (Feb 19, 2010)

johnmets said:


> Does anybody know how to tune and time a single cam bear game over ? (2009)


I just bought one also and would like to know!!!! Any replies would be helpful!!!!


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## j & b roberts (Feb 26, 2010)

*bear game over*

i just installed vapor trails, whisker biscuit, truglo sight, and the standard vibration reduction equipment. chronoed today at 282fps with a 380 grain arrow, bow set at 28in draw and 70lbs.
the arrow is a beman ics bowhunter 340 cut to 26 1/4 with a 85 grain tip.
hope this helps


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## konrad (Mar 29, 2009)

Mount your rest per manufacture’s directions and select shafts per your completed arrow length, draw weight and point weight. 

After you have adjusted the draw length to your body by exchanging modules and/or adjusting the string length with the spool setting in the cam, then check for even tiller (distance from limb pocket to a string drawn between the axles), then verify factory spec axle-to-axle length to a sixteenth of an inch (the measurement should be even on both sides of the bow), then verify brace height.

Bear Archery suggests your limbs will perform most quietly and efficiently when they are maxed out to the specified draw weight on your limb data tag.

With an arrow eye-balled square on the string, I install a long rod in the front stabilizer hole and then sight along the arrow shaft and adjust the rest in or out to align the two to set “center shot” as a starting point. (Laser, I don’t need no stinking laser.)

Then, set nocking point 1/16 to 1/8 inch high from perpendicular as a starting point. I use a nock set below the arrow’s nock with d-loop string knot below the nock set and above the arrow’s nock.

Now I start bare shaft plane shooting (no vanes or feathers) to verify the arrows are striking the target face squarely (vertical target face on same plane as arrow when shot…observe angle of arrow sticking from target…when you have everything right, the arrows will be all sticking straight out back at you.
Start at 10 yards. Then move back in 10 yard increments to verify settings. You will be surprised how well you can shoot without fletching. Then when you do add fletching, the groups should shrink, particularly at 30 plus ranges.

Let me know how it goes.
K

PS '07 Truth


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

johnmets said:


> Does anybody know how to tune and time a single cam bear game over ? (2009)


you talking all for cam timing??? as with no marks you have to measure DL at full draw and use that,


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## konrad (Mar 29, 2009)

There are some advantages to the “solo-cam” arraignment which your Game Over incorporates:

A: The issue of cam timing becomes non-existent as both “cams” are one assembly, bolted together.
B: Cable/string stretch related problems are greatly reduced. The primary issue then becomes a change in draw length and anchoring point (and a slight increase in draw weight will also show up) when the string/buss cable actually does stretch. This will also change the nocking point relative to square (tuning) and can produce porpoising in the arrow’s flight.

Your focus should be on adjusting the draw length to your body/anchor point.
Then verify A-to-A length and brace height/fistmele.

It is a good idea to document all of your bow’s settings as you play with it so you can return to where you were, should an adjustment produce negative results. This will reduce confusion later on when the time comes to change the string and buss cable and you won’t be second guessing yourself.


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## Cozmo (Feb 19, 2010)

Thank you for the reply! I will check these points. I took my bow to a shop tonight and they said everything looks great and I was able to keep good groups at 20 yards. I think I do have a small arrow flight conflict though. We'll over the next few days though.


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## douglasjwood (Apr 19, 2017)

tagged

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


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## 454casull (Jan 7, 2005)

konrad said:


> There are some advantages to the “solo-cam” arraignment which your Game Over incorporates:
> 
> A: The issue of cam timing becomes non-existent as both “cams” are one assembly, bolted together.
> B: Cable/string stretch related problems are greatly reduced. The primary issue then becomes a change in draw length and anchoring point (and a slight increase in draw weight will also show up) when the string/buss cable actually does stretch. This will also change the nocking point relative to square (tuning) and can produce porpoising in the arrow’s flight.
> ...


Cam synchronization is non-existent but the starting point (timing) still needs to be there. With no marks you use DL, DW as your checks. My son has one and it is a shooter, even with...a biscuit. You need to adjust idler lean to tune out right/left tears. Set center shot about 11-13/16" and work on the yoke from there. With quality strings/cables stretch is a non-issue but you cannot ignore it either. The longer string can and usually does take longer to set and will stretch and impact performance, replace every 2-3 years depending on how much you shoot. His tunes right at 90 degrees (nocking point)


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## edthearcher (Nov 2, 2002)

johnmets said:


> Does anybody know how to tune and time a single cam bear game over ? (2009)


there are no timing marks so you shoot for A to A and brace height


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## 454casull (Jan 7, 2005)

Those are secondary checks IMO. if the draw length is good and the draw weight is good chances are the ATA and brace will be there also.


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