# Finished my press



## marcusjb (Jun 22, 2005)

Thanks to all the great ideas here on this forum, I made this press from a $30 3500 lb. square tubing jack from Harbor Freight. I cut the jack handle and extended it through the square tubing to which the fingers attach. I modified the bend in the fingers to better fit my Ross bow. Thanks to all the others who posted and helped get me started!


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## Hoythunter01 (Oct 23, 2005)

That looks like a winner for sure ! Trailer hitch jack......amazing ! Why didn't I think of that ? Way to go !!


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## Twinsfan (Aug 9, 2007)

i was actually going to build the same exact thing. Havnt had time yet.


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## wicked1Joe (May 19, 2009)

Pretty nice


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## njsbow (Mar 15, 2009)

Good job on that press, that is an ingenious design. Hope you don't mind if I copy it myself.


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## marcusjb (Jun 22, 2005)

Thanks all. Copy away, I pretty much copied another fellow ATer with a few minor changes.


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## atkins72 (Apr 22, 2008)

Can you show a picture of a bow in the press? I am thinking of building one and this is the easiest design I have seen thus far.


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## asa1485 (Jan 16, 2008)

Ok, now I want one. Where did you get the bow fingers? Thanks


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## fishcatcher (Mar 24, 2009)

could you post a pic of the jack inside or tell us how you mount it in.

thanks.

Bill


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## marcusjb (Jun 22, 2005)

Here's some more pictures. I started with a jack from Harbor Freight which I cut the base off of. You can find the jack here: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47267 Basically all I did was weld two short pieces of square tubing (about 1 1/4 inch I think) to the side of the jack. With the jack tubing having a little play you have to actually weld them a little out of square actually. I welded a piece over the end of the one at the upper end of the jack. I drilled a hole in this piece to fit the handle rod (which I cut off then extended by welding in another short rod). For the fingers I heated and bent 3/8 x 3/4 mild steel. I welded those in place, so they aren't adjustable. They have shrink tubing on them, plus a little leather at the point of contact with the limbs. I also welded a short piece of tubing to the jack for mounting to the wall.


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## JWT (Jan 3, 2006)

Nice and simple! way to go, looks great.:thumbs_up


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## a1shooter (Mar 27, 2009)

*Nice*

Gets you thinking about new ways/places to mount a press. Not just on a bench.


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## TsavoCreek (Jan 24, 2006)

*Press*

No kidding! Mount it a wall and save the desktop space! Nice job.


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## Junebug13 (Mar 5, 2009)

Very nice, thinking outside the box. I like it! Now I want one!


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## Dewberry (Jan 25, 2009)

i know what i am doing next week.


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## PA3-DArcher4 (Nov 5, 2008)

I really, really like the way that is set up. Did you design that or did you see that somewhere else?? fabulous work!


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## MikeR (Apr 2, 2004)

Nice job! The jack looks like it would lend itself nicely to making a draw board also.


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## zara_puppy (Sep 10, 2006)

Looks great. Great idea brought to life. They'll be lots of these hanging in garages in the next few months.


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## Z-Rider (Jul 23, 2007)

Great idea, off to Harbor Freight this week.


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## DimeTimeTom (Aug 20, 2008)

JWT said:


> Nice and simple! way to go, looks great.:thumbs_up


yea great idea, cant go wrong with simple


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## willie7018 (Mar 19, 2007)

yep!!!! thanks man:darkbeer:
finally see the easy way out, space-saving effective , userfriendly and oh, yeah....easy!!!!!
damnnnnnnnnn


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## stangfreek94 (Dec 1, 2008)

How wide can it open? Looks nice.


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## marcusjb (Jun 22, 2005)

I'm not sure how far exactly, but beyond 50" anyway.


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## gshp13 (Jun 24, 2009)

nice job


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## traywick (May 7, 2009)

Very Nice


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## nelliott (Feb 22, 2008)

Z-Rider said:


> Great idea, off to Harbor Freight this week.


looks like their sales are about to go up...lol


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## k9carlo (Apr 24, 2009)

nice


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## TH30060X (Jan 7, 2006)

sweet


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## pTac (Jun 25, 2005)

Man, that is sweeeet! Thanks for sharing, might do that myself! Is there any measurements for the fingers or just what looks right?


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## GiveUmTheShaft (May 17, 2009)

that is sweet. the best homemade bow press ive seen ill be making one soon


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## fireman1296 (Sep 27, 2005)

Man I gotta have one of these. Awesome looking and cheap on the wallet. thanks for posting the pictures for everyone.


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## HoytFlinger (Jan 26, 2007)

Sweet!!


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## TexasCanesFan (Jun 23, 2005)

marcusjb said:


> I cut the jack handle and extended it through the square tubing to which the fingers attach.


That is a slick idea right there!!!!!


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## chshandyman (Aug 29, 2007)

*selling them*

would you cosider making one and selling it


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## marcusjb (Jun 22, 2005)

chshandyman said:


> would you cosider making one and selling it


I'm afraid I would have trouble finding the time now.


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## MuzzyHunter09 (Dec 6, 2009)

Hoythunter01 said:


> That looks like a winner for sure ! Trailer hitch jack......amazing ! Why didn't I think of that ? Way to go !!


i thought of that but i was goin to put it on this press.and that 1 but i dont no how to do it.

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i271/choadalamode/test042.jpg


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## Christopher67 (Nov 13, 2009)

marcusjb said:


> Thanks to all the great ideas here on this forum, I made this press from a $30 3500 lb. square tubing jack from Harbor Freight. I cut the jack handle and extended it through the square tubing to which the fingers attach. I modified the bend in the fingers to better fit my Ross bow. Thanks to all the others who posted and helped get me started!



That is sweet! :thumbs_up:thumbs_up


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## Flat Line (Oct 2, 2009)

This just became my project for next weekend!!!!!!!


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## FiveOarcher (Sep 21, 2006)

*very nice*

nice job and very reasonably priced is the best part! you see something like that and then think "why did I not think of that?" I actually have that jack on the "sureloc" type press I built.

now how to turn it into a draw board too!


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

great job


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## mrlogan (Sep 25, 2005)

would that press work with a mathews monster or xforce ?


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## hotrodderscott (Feb 25, 2009)

*Jack sale*

FOR YOU ALL THAT WANT TO GO THAT ROUT HARBOR FREIGHT HAS THEM ON SALE THIS MONTH!!!!

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47267

AND IF YOU LOOK AROUND YOU CAN ALSO FIND A DROP LEG WITH THE HANDLE ON THE END, WILL COST A LITTLE MORE.


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## BowhunterJT (Jun 4, 2009)

WOW, sometimes the simplest ideas are the best. Way to go!

JT:thumbs_up


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## davesonic444 (Apr 26, 2007)

Great diy press from habor freight


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## jlnel (Dec 22, 2009)

nice


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## eugene1e® (Sep 24, 2005)

This is the one I'm gona use 

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...ell=true&cm_sp=Xsells-_-Manual-_-Product Page


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## medic1 (Feb 12, 2007)

nice job......


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## John0341 (May 25, 2009)

*fingers*

where do i get fingers


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## ig25 (Feb 19, 2005)

*ttt*



John0341 said:


> where do i get fingers


yes where?


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## lc12 (Jul 30, 2009)

John0341 said:


> where do i get fingers


Try Coolhandluke who is a member here on AT.


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## DonsHarley (Sep 10, 2003)

Send a PM to deere318 if made mine.


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## buckeyboy (Feb 6, 2007)

*press*

first of all thanks for the great Idea I cant Take any credit for the build it was all your Idea. 
However i did a couple of things that may help others.

first I bought the Jack from Harbour freight.
2. Cut off the Jack base
3. welded two peices of squeare tube about 7" long at each end
4. Welded 3/8 keystock to the square tubes. then heated and bent the fingers to shape them 
grinded the end of the finger so the bow cant slip.
5. added some heatshrink tube over the fingers.

****note I did not mess with the hendle, have plenty of room to press just about any bow with no hendle move.
presses the bow with 3 1/2 cranks
Thanks for a great Idea 
here are some phots that may help others who want to make one.
Took about an Hour to complete I am going to grind and finish the welds and give it a nice paint job..


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## buckeyboy (Feb 6, 2007)

eugene1e® said:


> This is the one I'm gona use
> 
> http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...ell=true&cm_sp=Xsells-_-Manual-_-Product Page


 why its 84 bucks as opposed to 30 bucks..


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## eugene1e® (Sep 24, 2005)

sorry wrong one this is the one http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200332371_200332371


buckeyboy said:


> why its 84 bucks as opposed to 30 bucks..


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## buckeyboy (Feb 6, 2007)

eugene1e® said:


> sorry wrong one this is the one http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200332371_200332371


AHHHH I see! your going to put the round wheel to compress the bow on the end of the press. good deal :wink:


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## eugene1e® (Sep 24, 2005)

Yes http://grizzly.com/outlet/Hand-Wheel-6-1-4-/H3474


buckeyboy said:


> AHHHH I see! your going to put the round wheel to compress the bow on the end of the press. good deal :wink:


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## meatmissile (Oct 26, 2009)

Nothern tool sells a stand that has the handle on the very end(on top) and I am gona shorten the handle or weld a threaded rod and mount a wheel on it.This jack is 39.99 and it puts the wheel/handle out of the way and allows you to weld right arm all the way out to end.


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## lc12 (Jul 30, 2009)

Just a thought, but why can't you just weld the fingers on top of the square tube of the jack itself instead of welding the offset tubes to the jack and then the fingers to the tube?
Sure looks like there is room for the fingers on top of the tube from the pics I have seen posted.


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## RugerRedhawk (Oct 15, 2008)

I need to learn to weld!


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## RugerRedhawk (Oct 15, 2008)

lc12 said:


> Just a thought, but why can't you just weld the fingers on top of the square tube of the jack itself instead of welding the offset tubes to the jack and then the fingers to the tube?
> Sure looks like there is room for the fingers on top of the tube from the pics I have seen posted.


Maybe I'm not understanding, but I think they need to be offset, because the bow goes below the tubing, not above.


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## buckeyboy (Feb 6, 2007)

RugerRedhawk said:


> Maybe I'm not understanding, but I think they need to be offset, because the bow goes below the tubing, not above.


The bow riser would hit the tube you are correctamundo.


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## tonnanitro (Jul 14, 2008)

tafiing this one. might look into this one ovee the pipe vice press.


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## asa1485 (Jan 16, 2008)

ttt


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## Turbo2Pete (Oct 8, 2009)

FiveOarcher said:


> nice job and very reasonably priced is the best part! you see something like that and then think "why did I not think of that?" I actually have that jack on the "sureloc" type press I built.
> 
> now how to turn it into a draw board too!


Hrm..... the jack only has 28" travel, so as a drawboard you'd need to "preload" a few inches by hand - At least for those of us with DL's over 26" (I'm betting you need a bit for takeup, and you definitely want a little 'reserve' at full draw) but I think just adding a grip holder to the end of the moving end, and a string hook by the crank end would be easy enough!

I wish Harbor Freight was in NY..... blasted shipping charges! (gotta order one of these!) something else to add to the project list!

Pete


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## ILOVE3D (Feb 4, 2009)

*Press*

If you have 26" draw, does not that include your brace height as well as width of riser? You actually only pull about 18 or 19 inches from start to finish of draw I would guess? Maybe I am missing something?


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## asa1485 (Jan 16, 2008)

ttt


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## theedz (May 31, 2006)

How thick of tubing are you using of this? Buckeyboy What is Keystock and where do I get it? How did you make the "pads" for the limbs?


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## gmcbuffalo (Jan 31, 2010)

Is it easier to work on these bow hanging down then up like on the round pipe press? I was thinking of making one of these but I was going to weld the fingers on top of the jack tubing. Am I wrong and making a mistake?
Greg


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## gmcbuffalo (Jan 31, 2010)

Lc12 I didn't see your post.


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## psu111376 (Aug 4, 2009)

I thought I would add my "Harbor Freight Press" to this thread as well. I would like to give all the credit to the original poster, Marcusjb, as his idea inspired me. The cost of the materials are as follows: $20.99 jack (on sale then open box discount), $35 for the fingers, and $10.97 thrust bearing/races (McMaster Car). The square tubing I got out of a salvage bin, and all other parts I found laying around my garage. 

Oh, the thrust bearing and races I added because the load bearing in the jack is configured to handle a force that compresses the jack. When pressing a bow you are actually 'pulling the jack apart'. The bearing is probably not necessary but it does make the action of the press smoother.

I don't have the hand wheel from grizzly yet, on its way.


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## richwood08 (Apr 14, 2010)

Good idea actually never thought a jack would work but you proved me wrong


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## treeslinger2 (Feb 23, 2010)

psu111376 said:


> I thought I would add my "Harbor Freight Press" to this thread as well. I would like to give all the credit to the original poster, Marcusjb, as his idea inspired me. The cost of the materials are as follows: $20.99 jack (on sale then open box discount), $35 for the fingers, and $10.97 thrust bearing/races (McMaster Car). The square tubing I got out of a salvage bin, and all other parts I found laying around my garage.
> 
> Oh, the thrust bearing and races I added because the load bearing in the jack is configured to handle a force that compresses the jack. When pressing a bow you are actually 'pulling the jack apart'. The bearing is probably not necessary but it does make the action of the press smoother.
> 
> ...


So where did you get the fingers for $35????? I am in the build process for one of these and that is the hangup.


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## bclowman (Aug 2, 2009)

got to have one of those.


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## pbuck (Mar 30, 2010)

psu111376 said:


> Oh, the thrust bearing and races I added because the load bearing in the jack is configured to handle a force that compresses the jack. When pressing a bow you are actually 'pulling the jack apart'. The bearing is probably not necessary but it does make the action of the press smoother.


Where did you place the bearing?


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## psu111376 (Aug 4, 2009)

pbuck said:


> Where did you place the bearing?


For those interested in how I put this press together I will put up some pictures and schematics when I get a chance to make them. Short answer is between the gear and the plate that the shaft goes through. Again I will post details tonight or tomorrow.


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## Durzil (Aug 23, 2007)

eugene1e® said:


> Yes http://grizzly.com/outlet/Hand-Wheel-6-1-4-/H3474


I was looking at this one any reason you think we need 5000 over 3000 for a bow press?

Looking forward to Psu posting up his plans!


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## psu111376 (Aug 4, 2009)

Durzil said:


> I was looking at this one any reason you think we need 5000 over 3000 for a bow press?
> 
> Looking forward to Psu posting up his plans!


Sorry this took so long.

The reason I went with the 5000 lb is price....it was the cheapest one that I found. Remember that weight rating is irrelevant, because when you configured the press the force is not on the intended (use as a jack) bearing.

O.K. here is my set up. I will try to explain as much as possible. The first image is the parts schematic for the jack. If you don't already have a jack this will help. 







O.K. You will see how the jack is assembled and the original bearing that is positioned under the "metal plate" The gears above the plate are fastened to the shaft via a pin. This keeps the entire assembly together. I installed the thrust bearing between the gear and the metal plate.







I removed the shaft from the outer housing to show you how I put it together.







This image shows the thrust bearing on the shaft.

I hope this helps, if you need more info let me know.


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## caribou77 (Apr 11, 2010)

gmcbuffalo said:


> Is it easier to work on these bow hanging down then up like on the round pipe press? I was thinking of making one of these but I was going to weld the fingers on top of the jack tubing. Am I wrong and making a mistake?
> Greg


With the bow hanging upside down it allows you easier access to the string. For most people it is easier to work on. It wouldn't be wrong to weld the fingers on top of the jack tubing at all. But it really doesnt take much more work to build one with the fingers on the side.


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## caribou77 (Apr 11, 2010)

psu111376 said:


> Sorry this took so long.
> 
> The reason I went with the 5000 lb is price....it was the cheapest one that I found. Remember that weight rating is irrelevant, because when you configured the press the force is not on the intended (use as a jack) bearing.
> 
> ...


couldn't you just take the jack bearing out and put it were you placed the trust bearing then? It seems to me they are both trust bearings? While I'm sure it may run a touch smoother with the extra bearing it surely isn't needed.


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## psu111376 (Aug 4, 2009)

caribou77 said:


> couldn't you just take the jack bearing out and put it were you placed the trust bearing then? It seems to me they are both trust bearings? While I'm sure it may run a touch smoother with the extra bearing it surely isn't needed.


All of my responses are for the jack that I bought (I can't comment on other jacks). 

Yes, the bearing that comes assembled in the jack is a thrust bearing. 

No, you can't just put it on top of the metal plate. The diameter of the screw rod shaft changes. The diameter of shaft were the original bearing is located is about 3/4" and a length that matches the width of the bearing. The shaft diameter narrows to 12 mm as it goes through the metal plate where the gears attach.

I stated in a previous post that the added trust bearing is probably not absolutely necessary, but why I added the bearing for my press. HOWEVER, others have asked about the bearing so I tried to answer their questions.


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## caribou77 (Apr 11, 2010)

psu111376 said:


> All of my responses are for the jack that I bought (I can't comment on other jacks).
> 
> Yes, the bearing that comes assembled in the jack is a thrust bearing.
> 
> ...


I should apologize here. I just looked at the pics of your jack and then looked at how mine was assembled. You are correct. They are deffinately different. Just for curiosity does it run any smoother with the extra bearing? Have you tried it without?


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## psu111376 (Aug 4, 2009)

I removed the gears and added what I call a coupler nut along with 3'' of rolled stock to run the drive shaft out the top of the jack. With my configuration the added trust bearing was necessary, as my modification would grind into the metal plate.


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## Bubba3sq (May 24, 2010)

Very nice! This place is full of great ideas!


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## psu111376 (Aug 4, 2009)

I have received a some questions on the details for the parts used for my press. Here are some pics along with a description of what and why I did what I did.
There have been a few questions as about the "coupler" that I used. The coupling nut is a 3/4 swaglelok connector; I used this because I had it laying around. Originally I planned on using a 1" long 3/4" diameter piece of round stock with a 12mm hole drilled in one side (1/2 way) and a 1/2" hole in the other side. This would then slip over the screw rod shaft and I would use 1/2" rolled stock to extend the handle out the top. Again I used the swagelok coupler because it was around. Oh, my reason for all this was I want the handle to be pretty straight and also I have found that when I weld round stock it is less than perfect (I am a self taught/still learning amateur welder at best..lol) 








A picture is the press parts. I reused many of the parts form the press. The black end cap is the same end cap that was on the press originally. I drilled a hole and inserted the metal sleeve that was also in the original press (drilled out to 1/2").








This is a picture of the coupler and the 1/2" round stock extension.








This is a picture of the the parts assembled outside the outer tube. 








Finished press with Grizzly hand wheel


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## Va. Bowhunt (Sep 24, 2009)

Very Nice PSU111376


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

I have a question about the coupler. Did you put set screws in it to secure it or didyou weld it?


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## pbuck (Mar 30, 2010)

Hope he doesn't mind but I'll try to answer that for Brian as I've been bugging him to death for the last couple weeks while I got things ready to do my own press.

As I understand it, the bottom of the "coupler" is pinned on to the shaft using the pin that came out of the gear that was originally on the shaft. The 1/2" "extension" rod for the hand wheel is welded into the top of the coupler. He also added a thrust bearing (looks like a washer in the pic) below the coupler since the travel of the jack when pressing a bow is opposite to that of what it was designed for.


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

pbuck said:


> Hope he doesn't mind but I'll try to answer that for Brian as I've been bugging him to death for the last couple weeks while I got things ready to do my own press.
> 
> As I understand it, the bottom of the "coupler" is pinned on to the shaft using the pin that came out of the gear that was originally on the shaft. The 1/2" "extension" rod for the hand wheel is welded into the top of the coupler. He also added a thrust bearing (looks like a washer in the pic) below the coupler since the travel of the jack when pressing a bow is opposite to that of what it was designed for.


That makes sense. I guess I had a brain fart.


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## pbuck (Mar 30, 2010)

easyeriq said:


> That makes sense. I guess I had a brain fart.


I've had head gas a few times myself!


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

Another question. Is the metal plate already in the jack, or does that need to be made?


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## pbuck (Mar 30, 2010)

It's in there. It's what holds the jack together when assembled.


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## psu111376 (Aug 4, 2009)

Pbuck is correct with all his answers. 

I did weld the coupler to the extension because I didn't see a need to ever have to take that apart again. 

If you have more questions, ask away.... there are lots of people willing to help.


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## Arrow Adiction (May 15, 2010)

*bow press*

GREAT IDEA now I know how I am going to do mine. Thanks


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## paraarcher (May 12, 2010)

*You should sell these*



marcusjb said:


> Thanks to all the great ideas here on this forum, I made this press from a $30 3500 lb. square tubing jack from Harbor Freight. I cut the jack handle and extended it through the square tubing to which the fingers attach. I modified the bend in the fingers to better fit my Ross bow. Thanks to all the others who posted and helped get me started!


I might buy one myself. Nice job. I'm a website designer and website marketer. I can see how these could really take off and sell. I just said the same thing to a person who made portable bow stands.


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## sIllBowtech (May 10, 2007)

where do i get the swagelok coupler? looked around but cant find it.


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## psu111376 (Aug 4, 2009)

sIllBowtech said:


> where do i get the Swagelok coupler? looked around but cant find it.


A buddy of mine that I help with some of his jobs uses Swagelok to connect steel tube for compressed gas lines. I found it amongst my stuff left over from a job. Swag, is pretty expensive, so it would not be my first choice. I used it cause it was laying around. A piece of round stock would be much easier to come by. If you really want Swag. I think he gets his stuff through Pittsburgh Valve & Fitting Co.


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

*Great idea.*

I just finished painting my press based on this idea. I liked the wall mount idea but I didn't have a suitable wall so it had to be bench top mounted. I used spray-on truckbed liner, in hopes that I would scratch my bow less, I need to find a thicker, tougher type like Rhinoliner brand. I also decided not to cut the crank handle and mount the press arms opposite the crank for the ease of fabrication, still very easy to operate. I borrowed 3 different welders from a buddy, oxy-acetelyne to bend the fingers, a stick welder, but a cheap Harbor Freight wirefeed proved to be the best for this project.
Well I'm off to start another project, has everyone seen the PVC bowholders? Very cool.


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## abruno25 (Feb 12, 2010)

*bow press*

ok so i'm going to start to build my own press... my question is if anyone has the bow press open up on them while the bow was in the press due to the presure of the limbs... or does it work the other way around that since there is presure from the limbs it holds the threaded rod tight so it won't unwind its self? any help on this or has anyone set a lock fo that?


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## neo71665 (Jul 26, 2007)

abruno25 said:


> ok so i'm going to start to build my own press... my question is if anyone has the bow press open up on them while the bow was in the press due to the presure of the limbs... or does it work the other way around that since there is presure from the limbs it holds the threaded rod tight so it won't unwind its self? any help on this or has anyone set a lock fo that?


There is enough pressure on the threaded rod its not just gonna wildly unwind like you are thinking.


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

*pics.*


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

*works great.*

I have pressed my D350 several times and it works great, a buddy of mine said it looks like it was store bought. I must admit, it's darn sweet! At first I was going to buy the Last Chance EZ Press but found these plans, only cost $85 plus welding time melting my arse off. Will work for almost any bow.


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## rigginuts (Dec 27, 2008)

*Here is a little tip for mounting your new press that maybe some of you don't know.*

When mounting or using your press keep it level from end to end. This will also keep your bow level. If all is good you can hang your arrow from the string and achieve perfect arrow nock placement  

Nice presses by the way. Some pretty talented hunters here.


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## Browningbar23 (Apr 4, 2010)

*Jack is on sale*

For anybody looking to build one. The harbor freight jack is on sale for $19.87 right now online.


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## autoguns (Apr 27, 2010)

great ideas...I'll have to build one...JW


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## orarcher (Jun 3, 2006)

TTT Gotta build one soon


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## marc1980augrad (Apr 30, 2013)

bump to save post


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## nurface (Feb 14, 2011)

ttt


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## clanman (Mar 29, 2012)

Ttt


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## zdog73 (Aug 5, 2013)

Try


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