# Placing a nockpoint: arrow & berger hole alignment



## BowKil (Mar 19, 2005)

That's usually how I start out. The arrow covering the burger button hole, and the nock set at 90 degrees or slightly higher. If it tunes fine from there I leave it alone. If not, then just some minor adjustments are usually all it takes.


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## A Mess (May 21, 2005)

I prefer to set the arrow height as low as I can get it, while still getting sufficient clearance from the shelf, as you mentioned earlier. It just so happens that this usually coincides with the berger button hole. My thoughts have always been that in a perfect situation, we would have our hand in the exact vertical center of the bow, have the arrow in the perfect vertical center of the bow, and the rest centered there as well. Problem with this is that we have to shoot through our hand this way. So we compromise. We put the grip just a little below center, and the rest just a little above center. I believe the higher the grip and the lower the arrow, the better.

That's my take on it anyway.


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## tjb357452 (Jan 24, 2003)

I start out dead center to dead center. That's what works for me. It wouldn't be incorrect to start bottom of shaft to bottom of berger hole if that would be easier to establish as a starting point. A large diameter shaft would probably be easier to start using the bottom of the shaft and the bottom of the berger hole as a reference. Most shafts are of a diameter that makes it easy to eyeball center to center as a start point.


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## railbird (May 21, 2005)

*Trophy Taker*

Just for my 2 cents worth, I usually setup the rest so it is in the middle of the adjustment range for up and down. The reason for this is because as the string stretches, you'll have to adjust the arrow back to level by raising or lowering the rest.


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## MHansel (Jan 8, 2005)

*Bingo*



BowKil said:


> That's usually how I start out. The arrow covering the burger button hole, and the nock set at 90 degrees or slightly higher. If it tunes fine from there I leave it alone. If not, then just some minor adjustments are usually all it takes.


That's how I started with my Hoyt's and both tuned perfectly. Your on the right track :wink:


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## stehawk (Aug 28, 2004)

Mike W. said:


> I'm setting up my Trophy Taker rest on my AR34 and I have a question about aligning my arrows with the berger hole. In the past, I used a shoot through rest and adjusted the rest so my fletching would clear the shelf (cock feather down) and didn't worry if it was aligned with the hole.
> 
> With the TT rest, I'm shooting cock feather up and I have plenty of clearance with the shelf. Should I still set the rest just high enough so the fletching clears, or should I align with the berger hole?
> 
> ...



May as well add my 2 cents worth. Actually it doesn't matter. Having said that let me explain something. I don't know model of bow you have but they all pretty much are the same in the fact that the exact center of the string is about 1-2 inches higher than your nocking point and berger hole. The closer you get to the exact center of your shooting string when you're at full draw you'll have less up and down nock travel upon release of the string and better arrow flight. Bottom line--- it doesn't matter as long as the rest is 90 degrees from the nock on the string. You'll still be able to tune and shoot good groups. The closer to center the easier it will be to tune.


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## A Mess (May 21, 2005)

"they all pretty much are the same in the fact that the exact center of the string is about 1-2 inches higher than your nocking point and berger hole"

Not.


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## KIT-HAN-NE Flinger (Jan 5, 2005)

stehawk said:


> May as well add my 2 cents worth. Actually it doesn't matter. Having said that let me explain something. I don't know model of bow you have but they all pretty much are the same in the fact that the exact center of the string is about 1-2 inches higher than your nocking point and berger hole. The closer you get to the exact center of your shooting string when you're at full draw you'll have less up and down nock travel upon release of the string and better arrow flight. Bottom line--- it doesn't matter as long as the rest is 90 degrees from the nock on the string. You'll still be able to tune and shoot good groups. The closer to center the easier it will be to tune.


hmmmm interesting the lightbulb just lit!


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## stehawk (Aug 28, 2004)

A Mess said:


> "they all pretty much are the same in the fact that the exact center of the string is about 1-2 inches higher than your nocking point and berger hole"
> 
> Not.



Not! what do you mean not? What kind of bow do you have? OK ---Measure along your shooting string from your nock to the top cam and then measure from the nock to the bottom cam and see what you come up with. :wink: If they come out equal then you're one of the lucky ones. :teeth:


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## A Mess (May 21, 2005)

The vertical center of most compound bows is about midway between the berger button hole and the deepest part of the grip. This puts the vertical center of the string BELOW the nock point, not above.


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## A Mess (May 21, 2005)

stehawk,

The rest of your observations are right on, IMO. I currently own two Mathews bows, and they all have the center of the string below the nock point. What brand do you shoot that has the center above the nock set? Interesting.


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## stehawk (Aug 28, 2004)

A Mess said:


> stehawk,
> 
> The rest of your observations are right on, IMO. I currently own two Mathews bows, and they all have the center of the string below the nock point. What brand do you shoot that has the center above the nock set? Interesting.



Interesting, yes. I felt the same way at one time myself.  I didn't start believing until I starting making strings. In the instruction as how to make strings did I hear that the nocking point is lower than center. Oh well, I've tried on alot of bows now and guess what--- they all say that nocking point is is lower than center.   Try it, you'll like it!!


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## stehawk (Aug 28, 2004)

A Mess said:


> stehawk,
> 
> The rest of your observations are right on, IMO. I currently own two Mathews bows, and they all have the center of the string below the nock point. What brand do you shoot that has the center above the nock set? Interesting.


OK lets see--- here's how I measured and came to the conclusion that the nocking point is higher on the string than center. From the nocking point measure down to the bottom cam axle, then from the nocking point measure to the top cam axle. I just measured a Diamond (Bowtech), Martin, Browning, Mcphearson, PSE, and Bear. All of them had nocking points higher---a shorter measurement to the top cam axle. Plus the Mcphearson, which is a 1996 model had 5 inches difference :mg: Today bow manufactures try to get their grip as high as possible and the nocking point as low as possible. You can't hold the bow and shoot an arrow in the exact center :wink: unless you use you thumb as an arrow rest  Anyway, nowadays the nocking points all end up being about 1-2 inches higher than center.  Sad but true. :wink:


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## Top Cat (Jun 22, 2002)

I just measured my Bowtech Pro 40 wheely.
Nocking point to top axle========18"
Nocking point to bottom axel =====20 1/4"
2 1/4" high


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## stehawk (Aug 28, 2004)

Top Cat said:


> I just measured my Bowtech Pro 40 wheely.
> Nocking point to top axle========18"
> Nocking point to bottom axel =====20 1/4"
> 2 1/4" high


Yep, thats the way all of'um measure for me too.  Some think that nock travel is over rated. I don't. Some of the single cam bows can have as much as 3/4 " up and down nock during a shot. The hybrid cam is suppose to reduce the nock up and down movement and a two cam bow can get level nock travel if you creep tune. Face it if you have a two cam bow and the nock is 2" higher it stands to reason that if the cams turn over at the same time one will complete its rotation before the other and cause up an dowm movement of the nock during the shot. There's no way you can creep tune a single cam bow. Alot of people have been brainwashed about how great the single cam bows are. I really don't mean to bash single cams but they have their problems just like all the rest. Personally I have found a system that I believe in and really like. Its the Nitrous shoot through system -- it has no cable guard which relieves any cable torque-- Its shooting string is in the exact center of the top and bottom limbs and when creep tuned have perfect nock travel. It truly is one sweet system. To each his own-- If one is happy with what they got then they should stay with it. Go with what you have the most confidence in.


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## stehawk (Aug 28, 2004)

A Mess said:


> The vertical center of most compound bows is about midway between the berger button hole and the deepest part of the grip. This puts the vertical center of the string BELOW the nock point, not above.



No dah, the nock is above center -- correct!


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## A Mess (May 21, 2005)

I was wondering if you'd see the light.


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## stehawk (Aug 28, 2004)

A Mess said:


> I was wondering if you'd see the light.


Yeah, one too many :beer:  You knew what I meant though. You're suppose to understand what I mean and not what I say.  My whole point was suppose to be that the nock is higher than center. That does cause some problems. Anyway, we do agree after all.   This ones for you :beer: :shade:


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