# Beginner Recurve Draw Weight



## IU-Dave (Oct 7, 2017)

i was told to start at 35# but i never shot before, might be different for you tho?

anyways, heres a great deal on a pretty decent bow. brand new too. only comes in RH 45# and currently only 2 left

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/samick-red-stag-one-piece-recurve-bow.html


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

Hello. 

Read this sticky concerning compound-to-recurve considerations:
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=388848]

Think light, light, and lighter on your initial draw weight to allow yourself to catch an effortless and repetitive accomplishment of proper recurve technique, especially with the full draw weight of the bow in play at your anchor, aim, and loose. ("Manliness" need not apply at this beginning stage!)

Lancaster Archery, a sponsor here, has a fantastic selection of inexpensive, traditional, three-piece takedown bows that will allow you to start with lighter limbs and then move up to heavier limbs as needed without buying another riser. They can assess your personal physique and help you choose the right bow length and draw weight to get you started, as well as providing matching arrows and accessories for your specific bow. I don't know your budget, but check out the ILF setups as well as the less expensive traditional wood setups. The ILF route may cost a bit more, but is a very versatile format to grow with.

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/

Hope this helps. Holler back as questions arise, and good luck.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Phil -

Your 55# compound probably has a holding weight of 11-12#, assuming an 80% let off. 

35# would be three times than and 45#, 4 times. 

While draw length is a factor, I'd think 25# on the fingers would be a good starting point. 
However, you gave us very little info to go on. 

Draw length is one thing, age and purpose of the bow are others.
Throwing in a legit score (not a 3D score) would also help.

Viper1 out.


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## bilbowbone (Jan 15, 2011)

Viper got me down from the 50 lbs. I started on from some bad advice to 26 lbs. and things started working very well for me. 5 years later I'm shooting 34 lbs. target and 40 lbs.(minimum in WA state) for hunting. He is THE best information source here, no offense to anyone else 'cause there's lot's of knowledge here but Viper has the background to back up his advice.


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## j.conner (Nov 12, 2009)

I agree with the above, especially Viper and Thin Man. Also, learn and use an aiming technique - "instinctive" is a result, not a method. Don't buy into the overbowed, hunched over, snap shooting, "instinctive", "trad" thing unless you want accuracy only at 10' or so. Coming from compound, you are likely into anchor/hold/aim and actually hitting the target with a fairly high degree in control and certainty.


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## mepshunter (May 10, 2017)

Thanks for the responses! Viper, here's some more info. 28 in draw and i'm 16. As for purposes, I would love to use it for big game at some point but for now it will be target shooting and small game plinking. 

j.conner, i hear what you're saying. thanks for the advice!


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Phil - 

I teach a High School program with kids your age. 
Most start with bows in 20-25# range and are typically shooting better than "experienced" trad shooters within a few months. .

The few that started even a little heavier just don't do as well. 

And no, you won't be hunting with that, but you have to learn how to shoot first, and yes, you're compound experience may help, but this will be a little different.

Viper1 out.


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## felis (Oct 21, 2017)

I had a compound adjustable from 60 to 80 lbs. with a 50 to 65% letoff. 
Started with it at 70 lbs., but put it down to 60 lbs. years ago after I couldn't pull it back in a tree stand on a severely cold morning.
60 lbs. with 65% letoff is holding 21 lbs.
I stopped shooting for several years and when I picked that bow back up, I found I could no longer pull it back.

I don't know if there's a general rule on what to start with. 
I think a_ lot _depends on your age, your size, and your general condition and strength.

I'm in pretty decent shape, but on the smaller side, and senior age.
Pretty comfortable with a 40 lb. recurve, and obviously anything lighter than that.
I can pull back my 45 pretty easily, but it tires me earlier and I get a bit shaky if I hold it at full draw too long.
I've got a 55 lb. that I can barely pull back to full draw after a 'not worth it' struggle.

So - to the question 'what draw weight should I start with', I say it depends - on a lot of things.


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## MadJD (Oct 25, 2017)

Depends on what style you want to shoot as well. If you want to go modern-traditional you tend to go lighter due to the form or style of shooting used compared to older traditional instinctive like in Fred Bear's era for example. So 35# for just recreational will be easy enough to handle and if you wanted to hunt then 40# to 45# would be a good start. 

Samick sage is a good entry bow.

But I would disregard the comparison to compound let off which has nothing to do with how much weight you can handle shooting traditional bows. Has no impact on what you can handle so I don't know why ppl even include it.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

Let-off/holding weight on compound absolutely relates to shooting traditional. Most people do well enough with twice their current holding weight, which is usually about half their peak weight with most modern compounds.


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## MadJD (Oct 25, 2017)

The average archer won't shoot much above 70# so the let off will be limited to max 35# anyway assuming 50% let off. So its no practical use imo.


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## felis (Oct 21, 2017)

With both types of bow, you're pulling back a string against resistance.
Compound gets heavy earlier in the pull and lighter at full draw, and recurve/long gets progressively heavier.
So, that's not really of much practical concern.

Where the comparison is most applicable is how much weight someone is holding at full draw.
How comfortable is is, and for how long they can hold it before getting the shakes.
So - I think it's not totally useless making some comparisons between the two types.


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## j.conner (Nov 12, 2009)

Compound let-off is definitely pertinent. At the common 80% let off, most are holding 18# or less, using a mechanical release instead of fingers, and have a draw stop to pull against. Therefore, even 20#-25# will be a significant increase for that shooter. The best approach with single string bows is to start light, develop form, and dominate the bow. Then work your way up over time with progressively greater weights until you reach your target weight.


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## Captainkirk (Sep 18, 2014)

Listen to Viper and Thin Man. Viper's book _"Shooting The Stickbow"_ was the best investment I made and I only wish I had purchased it before I purchased my first trad bow and (naturally) over-bowed myself. Starting at 25-35#, depending on your stature and physique, will allow you to develop proper form and hold and execute the shot properly, while over-bowing forces you to take shortcuts like hunching, snap-shooting, not utilizing your back muscles properly and early release, which can develop into target panic down the line for some. Buy the book and read it before making your choice; you will be much better prepared to make the correct choices not only in bows, but also in arrows and other equipment.


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## felis (Oct 21, 2017)

PSE came out with the Evolve cam which has up to 90% let off. 
Not something I'd be interested in getting anymore, but it's pretty incredible actually, when you do the math.


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## DwayneR (Feb 23, 2004)

mepshunter said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I've been shooting a compound bow for several years and now I want to get a recurve to shoot instinctively. I have my Mathews z7 compound set at around 55 lbs so my question is what poundage should I start with for a recurve. Oh, and if you have any suggestions for a cheap traditional bow that would be great. Thanks, phil


Very easy question. .. but will you do it?

No more than 30 pounds max. and that will be a little heavy. . .25 pound would be better.
You have a compound bow, that has a certain percentage of letoff. . .Lets go back 30 years. . .
The let off back then was a bragging 50 percent. That means your 55 pound bow on full draw is about 27 pounds. (with a wall).

Fast forward. . You are young. . .I doubt if your bow is that old. . .My guess is that you have at 65 to 70 percent letoff. . .Lets
say 65 percent (a older bow). 65 percent of 55 pounds, is approx 19 pounds... . .not very much to hold back against a wall.

A 25 pound bow will put you at 25 pounds of hold. . approx 6 pounds more than your compound. That is a GOOD and stable
increase in holding weight. . .much more than that, would make archery a much difficult thing to accomplish with accuracy 
and good form.

Overall 25 pounds, up to 30 is a very good starting point. 
The idea is NOT to learn off the bow you want to hunt with. That is way to heavy. (And I mean WAY to heavy).

You learn off a poundage in which you learn your form. . .from anchor point to follow through. And during your
learning curve, your Draw Length will probably change a little bit. it is usually about 1/2 inch or so shorter than
a compound draw Length, for the average person. Some folks it doesn't change much at all, others it changes
up to an inch. . .it all depends on how they handle a compound and its transition. You don't have a wall, you 
are shooting with fingers instead of a release, and other small factors.

Dwayne


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## mepshunter (May 10, 2017)

Thanks for all the help everybody! I decided to go with a Samick Sage and some 25# limbs. I should be able to buy and sell limbs as needed. Also, I started "Shooting the Stickbow" thanks to captainkirk's recommendation. It's really just what I need. Thanks for the great book Viper!


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## DwayneR (Feb 23, 2004)

mepshunter said:


> Thanks for all the help everybody! I decided to go with a Samick Sage and some 25# limbs. I should be able to buy and sell limbs as needed. Also, I started "Shooting the Stickbow" thanks to captainkirk's recommendation. It's really just what I need. Thanks for the great book Viper!


If possible. . .keep those 25 pound limbs.. .They are a absolute gem to go back to, and work on your form. They will also allow you to relearn some things you may have forgotten when you switched to your hunting limbs.


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## MadJD (Oct 25, 2017)

mepshunter said:


> I decided to go with a Samick Sage and some 25# limbs. I should be able to buy and sell limbs as needed.


Is a good bow and haven't had any failures despite it being cheap. So popular too so getting limbs shouldn't be an issue or selling them for that matter.

25#? As long as you have fun but guessing you will upgrade soon. XD


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

It's only an upgrade if it gets you something more.

Having light 'form development' limbs available is a wonderful way to get where you want to be, regardless of what you're strong enough to 'handle'.

If you do get an itch to upgrade, and you've got an actual draw, with the actual bow, that exceeds 27", may also consider swapping to the longer 'Journey' limbs, if you can get them. Little smoother on the back end.


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## Captainkirk (Sep 18, 2014)

I second the motion to hang on to the 25#'ers. I started out by over-bowing myself and had to take 6 weeks or so off shooting completely because I injured my shoulder and elbow (like a dumbass) by shooting too heavy, too many and too often. When I ventured back into it (albeit slowly) I did so with a 35# glass Pearson bow and was amazed to find not only did it not hurt, but my form and execution were much, much better. Lesson learned. Keeping those limbs will allow you to always have a backup plan when you need it. Nothing worse than staring at a bow you can't shoot due to injury.


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## MadJD (Oct 25, 2017)

Captainkirk said:


> When I ventured back into it (albeit slowly) I did so with a 35# glass Pearson bow


So even injured a 35# bow was fine but for some reason you still recommend 25#? That doesn't make any sense.

35# would be an excellent starting weight for anyone starting unless they have a disability or intend to go serious target competition. With that weight, draw length won't be too much of a worry even if it ends up quite long so the weight won't climb too high.

Btw, never said ppl should start with a heavy bow. Thats just as silly.


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## felis (Oct 21, 2017)

I still maintain that it's unrealistic to recommend a starting weight to someone without knowing more about their physical capabilities.

mepshunter - I would say that after you get your bow, pull it back to your anchor point and hold it there for 30 seconds or so.
If you're not shaking like a quaking aspen tree in the wind, you're good to go.
25# doesn't seem like much, but you won't really know until you try it for a while.

I also say you should hang onto those limbs when you decide to go heavier.
You never know when they might be needed, or just come in handy.


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## Captainkirk (Sep 18, 2014)

MadJD said:


> So even injured a 35# bow was fine but for some reason you still recommend 25#? That doesn't make any sense.


Makes perfect sense. I didn't have a 25# bow. The 35 I had. If I had the 25 I would have used it instead.


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## MadJD (Oct 25, 2017)

Captainkirk said:


> Makes perfect sense. I didn't have a 25# bow. The 35 I had. If I had the 25 I would have used it instead.


Would have but didn't and still successful with 35#. Could say 15# would have been even better but its irrelevant.

Just proves 35# isn't much weight.


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## Captainkirk (Sep 18, 2014)

For me it worked out. I don't know the physique or build of the OP; 35 might be a bit over the top for him. 25 is a safe bet for any adult.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

If you've ever shot a sub-20# bow you'd know that it's probably the best training tool you could find.
Very few people can actually dominate 35# as a beginner.


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## j.conner (Nov 12, 2009)

I agree with 20#-25# as a better starting weight. I have seen plenty of buff guys shaking like an aspen after a few rounds. Archery is about form and accuracy, not a weight lifting contest. Lessons are a good way to start because you get instruction and guidance, but also because you can shoot classroom bows to develop.


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