# Blazor vanes won't stay on????



## Jasper2588 (Feb 7, 2005)

*blazer glue*



bmassey6 said:


> Just wondering why my vanes will not stay on my arrows. I keep having to refletch my arrows time and time again. I wiped the arrow down with alcohol prior to fletching with Fletch Tite Platinum. I always dot the tip and back of each vane with a dab of glue to help hold it on better. I am using plenty of fletch tite platinum I think because it comes out of the side onto the shaft. I always leave arrows for 24 hours before shooting. I am new to fletching my own arrows so anxious for pointers. Can anyone provide me with some information on maybe what else I need to do?


I am not familiar with the Flecth Tite Platinum, so I can't comment on it.
But what I use and have had great success with is Pine Ridge glue.







I have not had a problem at all with the blazer vanes and this glue.
Hope this helps.


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## 3DKING (Jul 1, 2006)

hey iam not saying it is you but i have had no problems with them comeing off i think it is your glue i would try what jasper2588 told you good luck i hope they work i used them this year for 3d and they worked great . :wink:


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## bmassey6 (Aug 3, 2006)

Hey, I am sure it is something that I am doing wrong, no doubt about that. Anyway, I'll try that glue. Any thoughts or ideas on better ways to prep the shafts than alcohol? What do you do to prepare the shafts before fletching?


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## Jasper2588 (Feb 7, 2005)

*Blazer Vanes*

I don't prep the arrows with alcohol or anything.
Just try some different things and see what works best for you.


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## Artemis (Feb 15, 2005)

Make sure you are using 90 degree isopropyl alcohol, not 70 degree rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol can leave a residue which prevents sticking. 

For aluminum arrows I use acetone from Ace Hardware and Fletch Tite Platinum or AAE Fast Set and the vanes stick on until I scrape them off.

For carbon/aluminum arrows, I use Ajax cleanser powder (yup, like for your sink) on a damp cloth, wiping the fletching area and then cleaning the Ajax off with a clean damp paper towel. Avoid getting Ajax inside the arrow  Let the shafts dry completely and they're good to go.

Hope this helps!


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## stickbowguy (Sep 28, 2004)

If your shooting carbons lightly sand the shaft at the nock end, just to take of the shiny finish and use denatured Alcohol to clean them. On aluminum use Lacquer thinner or aceton to clean them. I use Bohning Quantum XT glue, dries in a few seconds and holds great. Still let them dry over night before shooting though. You should still dab the ends with the fletch tite like you were.


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## LEP (Sep 25, 2005)

I lightly sand the carbon shafts. Wipe clean with dry paper towel then use Loc Tite Gel. Blazers stay till you scrape them off . And the best part is price is about 2.50 a bottle on the Loc Tite.....


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## sbninja (Nov 19, 2005)

Get some new glue, I had bad luck with fletch tite platinum.

Get some sanding sponges, Denatured alcohol and loc tite super glue gel. 

You can get everything at TheHomeDepot.


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## DeerslayinSOB (Aug 11, 2006)

I had the same problem with fletchtite platinum. I switched to goat tuff and that stuff WORKS! Lightly sand the arrow with 400 grit sandpaper then clean with alcohol, I like to clean the vanes too. They say you don't have to clean the vanes, but I do as an added precaution.


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## JCinMN (Sep 27, 2005)

You are not supposed to clean the blazer vanes, they supposely have some kind of coating on them that helps them stick better.

I even quit using alcohol. Just scrape them clean then I use a scotch bright pad and dish soap and scrub the area to be fletched, rise and wipe with clean paper towel.

Been using the "steel force" glue, it's just super glue with an quick drying spray. Seem to work awesome. I had a hell of a time getting my blazers off here when I refletched them last night.

I thought the fletch tite platinum worked great if things were just right but had adhesion issues with all the planets weren't properly aligned. Much easier to clean off though when you want to refletch. Really slow to dry though.


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## michael bilbrey (May 27, 2005)

I use tap water to clean my shafts. Bohning platinum glue and have no problems with my fletchings. Just dip the arrow in a glass of tap water dry with a paper towel and fletch your arrow. Hope this helps.


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## dwparker99 (Feb 15, 2006)

I've tried quite a few glues with the blazers. Goat Tuff holds them the best.


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## Target Tony (Mar 3, 2003)

the lady that doeas my fletchings uses Windex to clean the shafts off with.. yep you heard right Windex.. then she uses goat tuff glue.. it works great and i have never had any problems with any fletchings for 5 years. 

i know if i start fletching my own im using the same combination..

Shoot Strong
Tony


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## gollie15 (Feb 25, 2003)

michael bilbrey said:


> I use tap water to clean my shafts. Bohning platinum glue and have no problems with my fletchings. Just dip the arrow in a glass of tap water dry with a paper towel and fletch your arrow. Hope this helps.


Me too with Quantum XT


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## OH65GTO (Jul 15, 2006)

*Goat Tuff*

I use Goat Tuff and swear by it. I have not had to do any refletching due to the vanes coming off. Try switching glue.:wink:


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## RnRLobsta (Dec 23, 2004)

I have had problems with blazers sticking...Ever since i started preping the vanes by wiping them and the shaft with denatured alchol i have had no problems.windex worked but i beleive this works better.I think that what ever bohning(blazer)preps the vane with as an accelerator screws up most glues,exept bohning glues.....i use fast-fletch and have no problems!I also lightly sand super slick shafts like axis and beamans with 320 grit sandpaper..hope this helps


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## 2dog (Jan 17, 2004)

I have had the best luck with goat tuff. I have never had the vanes stick when I used fletch tite platinum. AAE fastset gel also works for me.


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## GeorgiaGlockMan (Sep 1, 2005)

I have had bad luck with the Bohning platinum glue as well.

I glued up a new set of carbon GT arrows with duravanes with a different glue and then ran out 1/2 way through. 

Bought the Bohning platinum glue and was having the front and back of the vanes coming up before it was dried. The bohning was also causing ripples in the vane's base along the sides. I did the best I could and the arrows glued with the Bohning looked on the rough side compared to the perfect job with the other glue. I went out to shoot a few days later and every arrow glued with the Bohning came off either during flight or when the arrow hit the target.

All of the other arrows glued with the other glue were and still are perfect.

I've used several other brands before with excellent results so I thought I may have bought a bad batch of the Bohning glue and went to a different store and bought another tube. Same results. The arrows were well prepared and I was following the same procedure with the other glue that held well.

The $4.95 that I paid for each of the tubes of Bohning won't be missed. The bad part is the time and frusteration that was invested only to find out that the Bohning platinum glue sucks.


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## Ryan (Oct 19, 2002)

I've hade trouble with the bohning platinum as well. Where can you get goat tuff glue?


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## Slippy Field (Nov 4, 2005)

GeorgiaGlockMan said:


> The $4.95 that I paid for each of the tubes of Bohning won't be missed. The bad part is the time and frusteration that was invested only to find out that the Bohning platinum glue sucks.


Great, thats what I just bought for the new Grayling jig I'm still looking to buy. :sad: Who has the best prices?


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## FallFever (Mar 8, 2003)

I have been using Bohning Platinum for 2 yrs. now and have yet to have a Blazer come off.


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## bowhunter brian (Aug 10, 2006)

A buddy of mine talked to Bohning and they recommend that you clean the shaft with a solution of "Simple Green". Then rinse with water and allow to air dry. I have used Goat Tuff and AAE Fast-Set Gel with excellent results. Never tried the Platinum glue (Thank God).. I do not clean the vane bases as it is not recommended. I have nver had to use the Simple Green, I have always used the 91% pure Isopropyl Alcohol to clean shafts..


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## GeorgiaGlockMan (Sep 1, 2005)

FallFever said:


> I have been using Bohning Platinum for 2 yrs. now and have yet to have a Blazer come off.


I've heard some others on other boards with recent complaints about the Bohning Fletch Tite Platinum. Who knows maybe they did make a recent bad batch.

I have 2 new tubes with only enough for about 10 arrows taken from each - I'll gladly mail the stuff to you no charge. Maybe you can get it to stick.


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## chase (Sep 25, 2002)

My procedure is this:

I wipe the arrow shaft (using a paper towel) "twice" with 91% alcohol purchased at walmart.

I then wipe the vane approx. 15 times while holding it in the clamp.

After a few seconds of "air dry" I then apply AAE fast set glue (which is very inexpensive). 

During removal, you will have trouble removing the vane even scraping it with a knife.


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## sean (May 31, 2003)

seems to be allot of these threads going around


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## carrotcloud (May 20, 2006)

Regular Fletch tite works better for me on arrow wraps then the fletch tite platinum. --Recommended by my pro shop, works like a champ. I believe the label on fletch tite platinum says to keep the clamp on the arrow for about ten seconds ( i may be wrong but I ran it out of the glue and cant find the tube). That is not enough to let it sit. How long do you let the clamp sit on the arrow to let it "set"? 5-7 minutes works good!


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## Koiman (May 14, 2005)

*Use Super Glue*

I have fletched hundreds of arrows. Super Glue seems to be the best plus it is very fast drying. Go to a dollar store or even an Ace Hardware store and look for a card of five each three gram tubes for a single buck - 1.00. You can't beat the price. I also use 91% alcohol but I also use a clean rag afterwards and rub until the shaft squeaks!! You can't hardly get the suckers off after that! Good Luck.


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