# bare shaft tuning worth it?



## Roskoe (Apr 15, 2007)

My view of bareshaft tuning is that it's main value is to try to determine how close the spine of the arrow shaft is to ideal. Sometimes, though, it just doesn't work out that way. I was tuning a Diamond Stud for a buddy of mine recently and all bareshafts hit the target nock low right. The stiffer shafts (shorter) hit closer to the fletched shafts than did the weaker (longer) bare shafts - and the weaker shafts hit left of the stiffer shafts. ???

I just gave up and moved on to good arrow flight and getting field point and broadheads to hit the same spot - which I was able to do. In this case, bareshaft tuning was not only a waste of time, but it wanted to lead you in the wrong direction.

On my 07 Vectrix XL, though; it shoots unfletched 29" Axis FMJ's so perfectly that you wonder why you even need vanes. Hit the target perfectly straight and at the same spot as the fletched shafts. I arrived at this perfect arrow length through bare shaft tuning.


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## Nuwwave (May 20, 2009)

I usually bare shaft test for a few reasons. TO check spine and tune for correct arrow flight. Bare shaft is kind of like paper testing only better. It is more revealing and easier to see what is going on. And I feel I can tune better with bares than paper. Actually, I have not used paper in quite a while.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Bare shaft tuning has it's place, but more depends upon the just what the owner is wanting or maybe I should say how good the owner is. And that is the bottom line - Most of us can't benefit with a super, super tuned bow, if there is such a thing. Bow set up correctly and arrow known to be of good spine and bare shafting for normal shooting is just about worthless. When I set up my target bow it never saw bare shaft or paper tuning or anything other tuning for that matter. I guess I got lucky as it more accurate than I am.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

In the past I have put alot of faith in bare shafts vs fletched. I still feel if you are a hunter it will get you there quick. Bare shafts and Bheads fly very similar for me. If I can get bare shooting with fletched, my Bheads hit with fletched. Where I have'nt experience is long range target. I bow out to Sonny there.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

No bowing down to me, red44. Like I said, normal shooting. I got lucky with my target bow as for indoor and 3D. For long range stuff, 900 rounds and field I use French tuning.
Bow set up correctly, timing, sync and stuff, the rest set properly, good arrow and knowning the fletchings have clearance....Hey, piece of cake. Lord, did I say that? Will add; And things go to that place in a hand basket to and then I use everything I have and wish I had more.


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## Redmist (Mar 31, 2006)

So how do you bare shaft tune? I thought you shot them through paper like paper tuning? Sounds to me you guys are shooting them against fletched arrows to see where they are hitting and move rest accordingly?


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Yes, thats what I'm doing. Not just the rest though. Could be bow pounds or arrow lenth or tip weight or cams timing that gets adjusted too. If I can get bare shafts and fletched close or together, my broadheads fly good too. It works for me, but I'm a short range hunter. My max distance I've shot bare shafts is 40 yards and If I'm in the ballpark with fletched I'm happy. A word to the wise - start at 10 yards or so. A bare shaft can really go bad from 40 if it's not right or you blow the release.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

In the past, here in the tuning section there's been some discussion on which tuning methods are better. I can't argue against group tuning, walkback, french, or whatever. I want tight groups, and if those tight group also put my broadheads in tight groups, I'm happy. Even if I had to move the sight a smidge to center the broadheads to hunt. If you can get them the same, great. But bareshafting saves my broadheads and broadhead targets.


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## Nuwwave (May 20, 2009)

Redmist said:


> So how do you bare shaft tune? I thought you shot them through paper like paper tuning? Sounds to me you guys are shooting them against fletched arrows to see where they are hitting and move rest accordingly?


If your not that familiar with tuning, start with the paper to remove and wild variations, then move on to bares vs. fletches. You can go straight to bares, but you need to have your bow close if your going to shoot any distance. If you have a bow that is not really close and go shoot at 20 or 30 yards, it can fly pretty bad. So start with paper or bares at about 5 yards and move back from there.


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## Redmist (Mar 31, 2006)

No I have in the past paper tuned a bunch. I don't totally have access to it. I can however shoot fletch and bare side by side into my big bag target. So can someone tell me if my bare shaft hits right, left, high or low what I need to do? I know I can shorten shaft and lower weight. I was figuring on trying the rest first.


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## Nuwwave (May 20, 2009)

Bares Hitting Left of fletches and nocks angled to the right - stiff arrow (assuming centershot is correct) If spine is correct then move rest to the left

Bares Hitting Right of fletches and nocks angled to the left - weak arrow
(assuming centershot is correct) If spine is correct then move rest to the right.

Bares Hitting Higher than fletches and nocks angled downward - nock too low

Bares Hitting Lower than fletches and nocks angled upward - nock too high

Keep in mind bare shaft will usually hit a little low and left when in perfect tune. And all readings will be opposite for left hand shooters.

It just like paper but more accurate. You can bare shaft tune back to 30 or 40 if you want, just like walkback tuning.


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## Redmist (Mar 31, 2006)

Are the nocks always angled opposite where they hit if centershot is right? What I mean by that is if bares are left of fletched, will the nock be to the right if CS is correct?


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Most of the time, but not always. Do Not tair you hair out.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Good grief bro. If bare are close to fletched you know it's darn close. Some would say if bare shaft points are close to fletched points (POI) .. good enough. Some would have the angle and POI perfect. I say close enough. Move on to what the end purpose is.


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## Redmist (Mar 31, 2006)

Ok well maybe I will shoot tomorrow and see where she lies.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Sorry man.
If the angle of the bare shaft is'nt to bad, don't sweat it. If it seems bad to you. Get back to us.


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## Nuwwave (May 20, 2009)

I would settle for about 2 inch variation between bares and fletches at 30/40 yds.


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## vtec1 (Aug 11, 2008)

My bares are hitting with nock high right, and that is what the paper is showing during paper tuning. Could my arrows be overspined. Shooting 74# 27" arrow Easton 340 FMJ'S. Easton chart looks like maybe slightly overspined but would that cause the high right angle of the bare shaft?


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

How are they compared to fletched and at what distance?


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## Redmist (Mar 31, 2006)

Ok here is what I have.

Before:

























After a small left rest adjustment:

























This is at 20 yards.


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## Redmist (Mar 31, 2006)

So I had my wife do this. and she shot fine at 20 like I did, but when we tried 30 yards she was like a foot low. What does that mean?


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## Nuwwave (May 20, 2009)

Redmist said:


> So I had my wife do this. and she shot fine at 20 like I did, but when we tried 30 yards she was like a foot low. What does that mean?


Normally the bare poin up would mean nocking point is too high. Is you your nock set level to your rest? (square to your string)

Is this a solo cam? I have seen this on a solo cam and couldn't get it tuned out. 

As far as spine, if they are hitting left with nock leaning right, it may be a little overspined.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

All I can say is what the easton tuning guide mentions. For a righty that looks a bit stiff BUT, it also says sometimes with a compound/release you need to do the opposite.
If you set the rest via walkback and still get bad bareshfaft results, try a different spine. You may never get it perfect, due to the archers grip or cam configuration or some other anomoly, but your trying to reduce the workload on the fletching. Thats really what we're doing by bare shafting vs fletched.


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## Redmist (Mar 31, 2006)

Nuwwave said:


> Normally the bare poin up would mean nocking point is too high. Is you your nock set level to your rest? (square to your string)
> 
> Is this a solo cam? I have seen this on a solo cam and couldn't get it tuned out.
> 
> As far as spine, if they are hitting left with nock leaning right, it may be a little overspined.


Unfortunately nocks are tied in with string and a loop outside that. I can move the rest however unless I reserve the string and move it all down. 

No these are alpine hybrid cams.


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## Redmist (Mar 31, 2006)

red44 said:


> All I can say is what the easton tuning guide mentions. For a righty that looks a bit stiff BUT, it also says sometimes with a compound/release you need to do the opposite.
> If you set the rest via walkback and still get bad bareshfaft results, try a different spine. You may never get it perfect, due to the archers grip or cam configuration or some other anomoly, but your trying to reduce the workload on the fletching. Thats really what we're doing by bare shafting vs fletched.


I will try changing from a 100 grain tip to 125 and see how that does.


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