# Paper tuning + bareshaft = left tear and bare shafts right.



## donkengine (Nov 18, 2010)

2009 PSE X Force DS GX @ 60.25lbs, 28" DL
Easton Axis 400 @ 28.5".

After getting a 1" left tear, I turned down my limbs 3 turns and it got better, but didn't go away entirely. If I intentionally torque the bow to the right, it shoots bullet holes. But it looks like the string is about to roll off of the top cam.

Then I shot a vane off while dialing the sights in at close range so I stripped the other 2 off and used it for some bare shaft testing.

Here are the results:
10 yards










15 yards









Is this just a spine issue or am in for a week of tweaking?


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## nomad11 (Apr 14, 2006)

Looks like your bow has a "Y" yoke....at the top cam/idler wheel. Likely your issue centers on that....since you are saying the "string is about to roll off of the top cam". If you play with that yoke...you can get the back end of the arrow to comply. Since you note a left tear...you might start by shortening the left side of the yoke (hold the bow as if your were going to shoot it.....look at the yoke...shorten the left side). One can move the heck out of the tail of an arrow with a yoke...to include an inch. Although that is asking for quite a bit....and you may have to play with the rest and/or arrow spine to get it the rest of the way. $0.02


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## donkengine (Nov 18, 2010)

nomad11 said:


> Looks like your bow has a "Y" yoke....at the top cam/idler wheel. Likely your issue centers on that....since you are saying the "string is about to roll off of the top cam". If you play with that yoke...you can get the back end of the arrow to comply. Since you note a left tear...you might start by shortening the left side of the yoke (hold the bow as if your were going to shoot it.....look at the yoke...shorten the left side). One can move the heck out of the tail of an arrow with a yoke...to include an inch. Although that is asking for quite a bit....and you may have to play with the rest and/or arrow spine to get it the rest of the way. $0.02


Thanks. The string rides perfectly on the cam unless I intentionally torque the bow to the right to get the left tear out.


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## donkengine (Nov 18, 2010)

Hmm...just noticed that I have some lean on the bottom cam. It leans to the left- could that be causing the nock to travel right to left?


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## flag (Oct 4, 2009)

Just play with the yokes and centershot that arrow should fly straight and the least little bit of hand torque will make a bare shaft act crazy


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## Tarus (Jan 17, 2012)

Put a 1/2 twist in your left yoke until it straightens out the bare shaft. From what I've seen most of these bows has a certain amount of lean in the bottom cam. Adding twist to the yoke on the top cam makes both cams work in the same manner, so to speak. Keep up with what you do so you can put everything back if it doesn't fix it, but I bet it will. I have had to put 4 full twist to fix but it doesn't look like you will have to go that far. Hope this helps.


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## donkengine (Nov 18, 2010)

Just so I understand...

Shortening the left yoke creates left cam lean which will either reduce a right to left nock travel or at extremes create a left to right nock travel?

Also, will eliminating the bottom cam lean have the same effect?

One thing I've noticed about my bow is that when I have all the top cam lean dialed out, the ATA is about an 1/8" short on the right side.


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## nomad11 (Apr 14, 2006)

Shortening the left side of the yoke tends to eliminate a left arrow or left nock tear. Moving the rest to the right (right handed shooter) also will eliminate a left arrow tear, for those that shoot a bareshaft arrow thru paper, etc. Since one does NOT have a "Y" yoke on the bottom cam you have little or no influence on changing that.....pls essentially disregard that "issue". When tuning bow/arrow - you are balancing personal draw length, weight, arrow spine/length (to include insert + point weight), rest setting and, yes, yoke setting. They are all related. Setting even idler lean..is setting just 1 of 5 variables....if you wish to do so, that is okay. Just be prepared, then, to change draw weight, rest, nocks and other variable to accommodate that. In short, caution about dialing in on cam lean, ATA on each side...etc. I have 2 identical bows that shoot the same arrow, yet each bow has a slightly different yoke, rest and poundage setting. Good luck.


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## Destroyer (Sep 11, 2009)

Your under spined, stiffen the shaft, don't touch the yoke.


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## donkengine (Nov 18, 2010)

Thanks guys! I think my shop has some of the same arrow that are either a couple of inches shorter or stiffer spine. I' ll try that first and then move on to the other adjustments.


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## Destroyer (Sep 11, 2009)

I would try a lighter point if possible before spending $$ on new shafts though.


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## donkengine (Nov 18, 2010)

Will do. I hope I can just cut down the shafts I already have.


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## donkengine (Nov 18, 2010)

Went back to the shop to try some stiffer arrows after having no success with all of the above. I think we found the problem. The bottom cam has a slight lean at brace but at the peak of the draw cycle it leans so far over the draw stop isn't even lined up with the cable. 









I called pse and they said to either send it in or take it to the dealer as it needs new limbs.


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## Destroyer (Sep 11, 2009)

Hope it fixes it. :thumbs_up


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## donkengine (Nov 18, 2010)

Got the limbs in today and it looks like they sent the wrong ones. My limbs have dream season written on them and have built in vibration dampers. The new ones look like plain xforce limbs. If they really are the wrong ones then they will screw up my brace height too. 

I hope this is just a matter of a superseding part. Its too close to bow season to be waiting on parts!


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## donkengine (Nov 18, 2010)

Double post


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