# broadheads whipping like they are hitting something but not my field tips



## bowguy12 (Aug 26, 2011)

are you shooting arrows shorter than your draw length? if you are then it is possible one of the blades could be hitting something on your riser or possibly your sight if its not a low profile sight. also fixed blade broadheads tend to fly differently than expandibles and field tips, typically low and left. if they are off by a few inches then thats normal and all you have to do is sight it in like you normally would but with the broadheads but if its off by more than 3 inches then there is something wrong with either the cam timing or rest timing. (more likely rest timing or alignment especially if you have been moving it and if thats the case you will also see the back of your arrow kick in different directions) As for the torque, it is possible you are torquing it but you would have noticed that while you were shooting your field points. if you are torquing it then it could be the grip. if you dont have mathews focus grip on the bow and its the wood grip then you are more likely to torque with that than any other grip on the market cuz it is rounded off. As for the FLX guard on the Bowtech bows, yea they are awesome and they do what they claim they do. i got one on my bow and ive never shot better. I manage an archery shop in Kenosha, Wisconsin and I am a very passionate bow hunter just like many people on here. good luck and i hope everything works out for you


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## Addicted to Oct (Aug 14, 2011)

*thanks for the reply*

thanks for the reply bowguy12

ill try to fill in some of the gaps 

i have shot the same exact beman ics arrows same length as i always have. i used to shoot rage broadheads that flew perfect now they also go to the left. thats what i was thinking that the MX3s just werent flying right because they are fix blades so i put on the rage and tried it and same problem so thats when i realized i had a problem.

i just footpowder tested it today expecting to see it streaked on the rest or cables or somewhere and nothing. i cant really tell where the roller guard is though where the cables move but its a little smudged there just looks like wax though.

but still shooting left not down really at all either though. my bow shop guy did move my rest a little bit towards my riser.

i also tried movin the odd feather straight out that whent low left. i tried moving it like the other arrow that flys perfect flew somewhat decent but the footpowder streaked the bottom left of the rest. and didnt really notice any whipping today.

also i shoot the ultra rest there is a line on it when at full draw it should be lined up with another line and it is. i would think if the release string needed shortened the full draw line would be short and not lined up. 

i appreciate you guys tryin to help!


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## P&y only (Feb 26, 2009)

Try a stiffer arrow once.


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## bowguy12 (Aug 26, 2011)

trying a stiffer arrow could work too. what size are your arrows and whats your lbs and draw length on your bow? I've got a beman sizing chart right here in the shop cuz we only carry easton and beman.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

I believe that Rage broadheads are expandables. 

The main reason for expandables is that they fly like field points so are less critical to tuning and form faults.

Muzzy's are fixed blades. They are effectively steel fletching on the front of your arrow. This makes them more critical to minor tuning problems and to form faults, especially hand torque.

For field points within 20 to 30 yards, arrow spine is not an issue. But when you put a fixed blade broadhead on, it becomes much more of a factor.

Check the charts or programs to see if your arrows are in the recommended range. Then spin them to be sure that they are perfectly aligned with your arrows. If not, there are tools made specifically for squaring the ends of your arrows. They work and should be used every time an arrow is cut. Don't let somebody tell you that they spin the arrow while cutting it to square it. That technique is a good start, but no one can consistently get the end perfectly square that way. Additional squaring is almost always necessary. Also be sure to square both ends. A nock that is out of alingment is at least as bad as a point out of alignment.

Then go to your maximum accurate range and shoot broad heads and field points aiming at the same spot. Adjust centershot and nock height to get them to fly together. You want to be as far back as possible. If you are too close, you will damage your arrows. The marks on your rest are just a starting point. You have to tune the bow to your form. Everyone is a little different and no one can tune a bow perfectly for you.

Let us know how you work this out.

Hope this helps,
Allen


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## soonerboy (Sep 6, 2004)

Try a different kind of rest to just verify that your present rest is or is not the problem.


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