# eyes/nose/mouth



## JaySee (Jun 19, 2006)

Pete,

Check out taxidermy.net it has tons of tutorials and great information.

Jeremy


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## scrapewatcher (Apr 14, 2009)

don't use wax. get some of tutorials


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## Fletcher43 (Aug 30, 2005)

*pins*

One hopefully helpful hint, when you get your form size right and a good hide paste theres no way you should need that many pins.time is money in the buisness and your just creating more work for yourself,,hydrate your hide then measure it ,then order your form,THEN DO A TEST FIT!!(most important part!)then do any alterations at that time.... you will get better results..as far as finishing,,i use sculpt all,and my paint of choice is lifetone laquer.out of a pachete vl2 air brush..good luck!practice makes perfect


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## myarrow (Aug 7, 2008)

Yes, use sculpt all for putty, but use water base paint. I use water base acrylics from walmart. Ivory, burnt umber, and burnt scienna (spelling?). clean area with laquer thinner first, then use air brush. Thin the paint with water and spray paint with hair dryer drying the paint as you go. The water base paint does not stick to hair but will stick to skin. use toothbrush or a fabric towel to brush paint off hair. Been doing it this way for over 30yrs. Easier than laquer base paint. Good luck..........Bob


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## kickercoach1285 (Apr 28, 2009)

I agree with the amount of pins used. I use sculp all also and when you tuck in under that stuff it holds the hide with little or no pulling. I always used laquer in the past however I may switch over to water based as well. Going green? ukey: Alot of our paints coming into the cabinet factory that I work at is water based.


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## JerseyJays (Jul 12, 2008)

my 1st reccomendation is to use The Wildlife Gallery (tannery) out of Michigan.
By using a good tannery, you can eliminate the use of pins completely.
The only time i use a pin is to keep the skin from drumming on a certain depressions a form might have.....
The Wildlife Gallery is FAST AND you need about 10-15 mins of thinning around the nose/etc before mounting... thats EXCELLENT work on their part!
Try them out http://www.thewildlifegallery.com/


Next, i use magic sculpt to make any corrections.... if the eyes were done right, none is needed there....

Next i use WILDLIFE colors with airbrush

srpay basecoat sealer (nose, lip, inner ears, eyes)
spray touch-up white (nose, lip, inner ears, eyes)
spray flesh (ears- more flesh towards inner ear, cover the nosepad and lower lip as well as inner nostrils, then spray in the front corner of the eyes while you fade to nothing towards the back..)
spray burnt umper ( mist in ears, for a fall look, leave flesh down in the ear canal, then blend over the flesh on the eyes, leaving very little tones of flesh in the front corner area, made darker along the eyelid lines)
use a syringe/needle to apply mod podge to rebuild the nosepad nodules over the flesh color
spray paynes grey over the nosepad, darker on top and front, than as you come around the lower section of the nosepad, mist on an angle to leave some flesh on the lower nodules as well as between the nodules, also spray lightly into the nostril to tone down the flesh color, but leave a slightly fleshy look..



hope this helps... give it a try


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## JerseyJays (Jul 12, 2008)

order this magazine as well.

http://www.breakthroughmagazine.com/issues/2006/Winter2006/toc.htm

this particular issue has a great article on deer noses, with "how to" mount and paint... EXCELLENT READ.

i would buy this issue i posted above, then i would also sign up for the 4 magazines / yr

good luck!


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