# Bohning Archery Cool Flex Low Temp Hot Melt Adhesive Review



## Barry O'Regan (Nov 2, 2008)

*#1. What you will need to get started*

Here is a step by step guide


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## Barry O'Regan (Nov 2, 2008)

*Prepping the shafts*

Proper shaft and insert preparation is the key to a good bond, Bohning's SSR arrow shaft cleaner will ensure proper bonding.


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## Barry O'Regan (Nov 2, 2008)

*Heating the insert and applying the Bohning Cool Flex Adhesive*

Now the fun part!


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## DannyZack (Oct 19, 2010)

what happenes when your shooting on a hot summer day? then your @#$%ed!


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## Barry O'Regan (Nov 2, 2008)

*Did you get a little sloppy applying the Bohning Cool Flex?*

No problem, the best part is the excess Cool Flex is pliable and can be scraped off with your fingernail or wooden stick!


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## Barry O'Regan (Nov 2, 2008)

*Insert Removal Procedure*

Now removing inserts is done in a minute


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## Barry O'Regan (Nov 2, 2008)

DannyZack said:


> what happenes when your shooting on a hot summer day? then your @#$%ed!


Different kind of heat, what you are talking about is radiant heat, Bohning Cool Flex reacts with latent heat.


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## Barry O'Regan (Nov 2, 2008)

*My 3D Test with arrows prepared with Bohning Cool Flex Low Temp Hot Melt*

Below are photos of two arrows used last weekend at a 3D shoot , one arrow is a fitted with a screw in insert, the other arrow is fitted with a glue in point. A true test whether the Bohning Cool Flex kept the inserts in place.


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## pluckem (Dec 6, 2006)

Followed these directions to the "T". I made up 6 Victory VAP's. They have the insert/outsert design. They had zero problems in my layered block target. Took them to the range that has large compressed straw targets and left with 4 out of the 6 inserts gone. Pretty disappointing performance.


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## Barry O'Regan (Nov 2, 2008)

pluckem said:


> Followed these directions to the "T". I made up 6 Victory VAP's. They have the insert/outsert design. They had zero problems in my layered block target. Took them to the range that has large compressed straw targets and left with 4 out of the 6 inserts gone. Pretty disappointing performance.


Good morning Pluckem, though I have not tried the Bohning Cool Flex on the Insert/Outsert design, I will look into trying that with some Insert/Outserts. If this turns out to be the case, I will certainly let Bohning know. 

It is quite disheartening to hear it did not work for you. While I believe you followed the instructions to a T. Can I ask if you applied enough Cool Flex to the shaft? Applying an excessive amount I feel is the key to a good bond. I am wondering if the Insert/Outsert and arrow shaft has enough clearance between the two, to adequately get enough of the Cool Flex adhesive inside, or perhaps the clearance tolerances are too tight? I used Cool Flex with inserts which have a cross hatch pattern in order for the Cool Flex to ingrain itself into the insert grooves, as well as filing the glue in points the same way in a cross hatch pattern in order for the Cool Flex to get into the glue in point grooves.

I am sorry it did not work for you, as I imagine trying to cross hatch the inside of the outsert for the Cool Flex to grab onto would be darn near impossible, unless you use a brass rifle brush, though I imagine even that would be too large. Would you consider just using a glue in point? Though I imagine your application is more for broadheads and Hunting, if not glue in points seem to work pretty well.

Like I said, I will try the insert/outsert on a few VAPs and report back the results on here and to Bohning. It may be Cool Flex is not the end all, be all when it comes to your application.

I do thank you for your input!


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## Barry O'Regan (Nov 2, 2008)

Hello everyone, Pluckem made a point earlier on the limitations of Cool Flex I would like to point out. Pluckem uses VAPs with the outsert/insert and had issues of the outserts coming out after a few dozen shots into a tightly would rope bale target butt.

I checked it out and talked to him about it and my conclusion is the shaft to outsert clearance may be too tight for the Bohning Cool Flex to properly adhere between the arrow and the outsert. 

While I always prep the inside of the carbon shaft and insert, chafing the outside of the VAP shaft may not be a great idea and I would not recommend it. While you could chafe the inside of the outsert only, it seems that Bohning Cool Flex may squeeze out due to the tight clearances between the shaft and Outsert and not providing the best adhesion.

To be fair to Bohning, anyone who has shot into these tightly wound rope bales, will know it can be a real torture test even with the best adhesives at best. 

I shoot into these rope bales with my 68 pound Recurve bow at SCA traditional shoots and let me tell you they are a B*gger to pull out even with Hamskea arrow jacks. These rope bales are made to last and more importantly are more for wood arrows and low poundage Recurves at around 45-50 pounds. They are not really designed for high performance high poundage bows and carbon arrows, which in time would destroy the rope binding. 

So just to let you know, adhesives do have their limits, even Bohning.

Thanks for bringing up an important issue I overlooked and Bohning will be in touch with you shortly in your private email.


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## pluckem (Dec 6, 2006)

pluckem said:


> Followed these directions to the "T". I made up 6 Victory VAP's. They have the insert/outsert design. They had zero problems in my layered block target. Took them to the range that has large compressed straw targets and left with 4 out of the 6 inserts gone. Pretty disappointing performance.


Barry, thanks for looking into this and sending me a PM. I will update this and say I have followed these directions again, but this time around I used Insert Iron. I did the same prep directions and then put a thin layer of glue around the 3 rings (or contact points) that touch the inside of the arrow shaft. I put at least a full twist as I inserted them. I then put the arrows insert down and put some weight on the nock end of the arrow and allowed the glue to cure for 24 hours. So far so good. I have about 400 shots into the bale targets and have not had an insert pull out. This seems to be the ticket. 

If anyone is trying to get the VAP's inserts to stay in, I would recommend the above directions, but swap the glue for the Insert Iron.


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## Barry O'Regan (Nov 2, 2008)

Thank you Pluckem, I have passed on your comments.


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## ZHANG FELIX (Oct 14, 2011)

Bow and arrow is a temporary weapon that can be best prepared, and very easy to prepare. Only need to spend a short time, you will use them when the beneficiaries.
The shells are completely dry solid wood materials, of course better, not when you should be able to control a good bow. If you will be expected to stay in the seat a few months, you should store some of the finest rounds of wood to spare. Wood will be playing other shorter life span, you can do a few bows, loss of elasticity, and back to a use.
Yew bow system is the ideal material - all the old English longbow made ​​by yew. In the northern hemisphere distribution are five yew trees, but not all kinds of common prosperity. Others such as oak, willow, pecan trees, cedar, cycads, one hundred elm, cypress trees, birch and fir are very good rail system, bow material.


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