# Which Wooden Arrow Sealer & Why?



## AFB_1992 (Mar 21, 2014)

Hi,

I hate to post another question regarding the product used to seal a wooden arrow, BUT, I've scoured the web and can't find the answer I'm looking for.

The wooden arrows I make are fine, and so are the products I'm using to seal them - to a certain extent anyway. 

The 2 products I've used are spray on polyurethane and quick drying wipe on varnish. They were both OK, but they both had their downfalls IMO. The spray on poly held up great, it gave a nice finish (eventually) and it didn't discolour my white cap. The short comings were, that it was difficult to get an even coat. It ran if I applied a little too much, and the finish was ruined if I tried to wipe away any excess. 

The wipe on varnish on the other hand was easy to apply, the coats dried within 20 minutes (making the whole process a lot quicker) and it was easy to get a even coats when a good finish. The downfall was that this stuff wasn't very durable and it discoloured my white cap. After 2 months of shooting them twice a week I noticed the finish was starting to thin and rub off about 3 inches from the point. 

My question is, which sealant ticks all the boxes and why? So far I'm come across 2 possible products:

3Rivers clear sealer - which I've _heard_ cannot be wiped on and must be dipped instead?
Minwax Polycryllic - which I've _heard_ isn't as waterproof (water tight) as varnish or polyurethane?

*Note, I use _heard_ as these are only points I've seen mentioned around the internet.

Cheers.


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

Hello. 

I use the Minwax oil-based wipe-on poly. I also use a water-based wipe-on poly that will not "amber" the white underneath it. I don't mind the subtle shading over white that I get with the oil-base ... I actually find it warm and furniture-like, and still quite white. But that's me. 

I don't know what product you were using to obtain a 20 minute dry time. I trust no finish that dries that fast (sounds like all solvent and minimal finish). I apply at least six to eight wipe-on coats and allow _*at least*_ 12 to 24 hours (depending on the weather) for each coat to thoroughly harden. Short-cutting a dry time guarantees unsatisfactory results. A light 0000 steel wool buff to get rid of dust irregularities, and then on to the next coat. I ignore dry-time instructions on most products and endure the patience to obtain a genuine hardening with all the solvents off-gassed before moving on. I have no problems with finish coming off under target bag conditions.

I plan on at least a solid week of time to process arrows. The actual time spent on the shafts is minimal and in bursts. Most of the week finds the shafts resting and drying. 

Hope this helps. Holler back with more questions and the folk here will dive in with lots of variations and finishes that will give you some relief.

Good luck.


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## Bill 2311 (Jun 24, 2005)

I used the Minwax listed with good results. I don't know why it would not be waterproof. You are not leaving them in the weather, just sealing against moisture form humidity.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Same as above.. Minwax wipe on poly. Water-based will keep whites white, for about 3 coats, I believe. Durable and easy to work with. Oil based makes stuff a little richer and deeper.

Polycrylic doesn't darken whites at all, however, if you're shooting into certain materials, the finish will melt, harden, and you'll have foam/hay, whatever, sticking to your arrow shafts, which is kind of a bummer.

Love the wipe on poly!


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## zu! (Feb 19, 2014)

I use what is known as the "Massey finish", presumably named after bowyer Jay Massey. It leaves a very durable, yet flexible mildly glossy epoxy finish that's very durable. The best part is, I could make it at home very economically with just regular 2-ton epoxy and acetone. 

If you don't like the gloss, simply run steel wool over it.

Why? Cos it's cheap and durable. The downside is that it's time-consuming. Or maybe I just made it so.


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## Arrowzen (Feb 14, 2014)

One trick you can do with any poly or oil based finish is to use a lint free towel or rag damp with mineral spirits to wipe down areas that are uneven due to over spraying or running.

The mineral spirits are a thinner for those finishes and will cause it all to flow together nicely.

I recently refinished my bow with Helmspar, which is a poly based spray. Immediately after each coat I would go over the surface with the rag damp with mineral spirits. It caused the whole surface to flow into one nice even layer. I'm sure it would work just the same on your arrows.


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

AFB_1992 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I hate to post another question regarding the product used to seal a wooden arrow, BUT, I've scoured the web and can't find the answer I'm looking for.
> 
> ...


You can seal an arrow with anything, just about.. from polish to varathane, to linseed... which in my opinion... is a vast mistake... but I digress there... I use varnish or paste wax when in a hurry. You can dip, brush or spray... dipping *in my opinion* does the best job... moisture can kill an arrow as fast as ricochet into the rocks.

Much Aloha,

:beer:


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## Trigun (Mar 27, 2005)

I tried many stuff but settle on gorilla glue wood glue, this made the arrow stronger and less worn out of finish. the draw back is after apply the wood glue to the shaft, it become difficult to to stain the arrow.

Edmond


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## AFB_1992 (Mar 21, 2014)

Hi,

Thanks for all the replies.

The Minwax stuff is usually hard to get hold of in the UK, but I've found a stockist that has the right stuff for a good price. If you guys say it's good stuff, that's good enough for me!

Regards.


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