# Cable Guard Rollers



## lordmanxcat (Mar 14, 2009)

Not really sure if this is really a DYI, but it's something I came up with ....

I was looking at cable guard rollers on several websites, ranging from $6 to as much as $20. So I looked in the local hardware store, and found that teflon screen door rollers aren't a whole lot different than a set of cable guard rollers. and, as they come in different sizes with different center holes, it wasn't too hard to find one that fit my cable guard. I spent a grand total of $2.06.


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## Hammer0419 (Nov 21, 2005)

As long as the strings don't come out and it slides up and down the rod it looks good. Looks like it will work.


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## lordmanxcat (Mar 14, 2009)

Works fine. cables are recessed enough in the rollers as not to jump out, and the rollers have just enough clearance on the rod to slide very easily.




Hammer0419 said:


> As long as the strings don't come out and it slides up and down the rod it looks good. Looks like it will work.


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## boringdad (Oct 29, 2006)

*Cable Guard Info Needed*

Where your cables always on the back side of your rod. I am having a little vane issue but my cables are on the same side as the rest.


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## tjsjr (Mar 30, 2009)

Does it still slide back and forth? thats something i havent figured out about teh factory ones. They are solid but most bows the cables move back and forth, atleast the ones ive shot?


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## lordmanxcat (Mar 14, 2009)

yes, they still slide back and forth on the cable guide rod as necessary.



tjsjr said:


> Does it still slide back and forth? thats something i havent figured out about teh factory ones. They are solid but most bows the cables move back and forth, atleast the ones ive shot?


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## lordmanxcat (Mar 14, 2009)

How that is setup I believe is dependent on the bow's engineering. I could be wrong though. I would say, though, if you're having a vane clearance issue, might want to adjust your guide a little bit, or maybe try a set of rollers and move the cables to the outside, but be mindful that too much sideplay can cause your cables to slip off of your cams. could be bad mojo.

Any opinons on this?




boringdad said:


> Where your cables always on the back side of your rod. I am having a little vane issue but my cables are on the same side as the rest.


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## High_Speed (Oct 9, 2009)

I have a question. I have a PSE Nova and I want to change the factory cable slide to a couple teflon rollers like you have here. The thing is, though, my cables are on the inside of the slide bar. Can I just move the cables to the other side of the slide bar, or is that going to cause issues?

The bow looks almost identical to this one: http://tune.pse-archery.com/images/PSE/20020700PV.jpg

And the rollers are like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Teflon-CABLE-SL...ultDomain_0?hash=item2ea8680cad#ht_697wt_1167

Can anyone help? I don't want to blow the bow up.


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## lordmanxcat (Mar 14, 2009)

I'd say yes you could, but you may have to adjust the offset a little bit.



High_Speed said:


> I have a question. I have a PSE Nova and I want to change the factory cable slide to a couple teflon rollers like you have here. The thing is, though, my cables are on the inside of the slide bar. Can I just move the cables to the other side of the slide bar, or is that going to cause issues?
> 
> The bow looks almost identical to this one: http://tune.pse-archery.com/images/PSE/20020700PV.jpg
> 
> ...


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## High_Speed (Oct 9, 2009)

lordmanxcat said:


> I'd say yes you could, but you may have to adjust the offset a little bit.


I'm sorry, please excuse my ignorance...but exactly what "offset" are you referring to?


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## lordmanxcat (Mar 14, 2009)

High_Speed said:


> I'm sorry, please excuse my ignorance...but exactly what "offset" are you referring to?


the amount of offset that your cable guard is from dead vertical. You will probably need to move it a bit closer to vertical, as you don't want your cables too far out, as they may slip off of the cams. I usually set mine somewhere near the 12:30 to 1 o clock, just enough for my arrow fletching to clear.


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## High_Speed (Oct 9, 2009)

So if I'm understanding correctly you're saying I should rotate the rod itself up a bit so that it comes closer to the main string?


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## lordmanxcat (Mar 14, 2009)

High_Speed said:


> So if I'm understanding correctly you're saying I should rotate the rod itself up a bit so that it comes closer to the main string?


right. if you move the cables to the other side of the rod, you will be adding the thickness of the rod, plus the cables to the amount of offset you have now. too much not only can cause cables to slip off the cams, but also throws the timing of the bow all out of whack.


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## High_Speed (Oct 9, 2009)

Hrmmm...maybe I just need to leave 'em off. lol

I wonder if I take it to the local shop, maybe they can help me install them.


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## lordmanxcat (Mar 14, 2009)

High_Speed said:


> Hrmmm...maybe I just need to leave 'em off. lol
> 
> I wonder if I take it to the local shop, maybe they can help me install them.


it's not a hard job, it's like level1, but if you're not comfortable with it, best bet is take it to a shop.


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## High_Speed (Oct 9, 2009)

Well I might try it. I guess as long as I keep the string distance about the same, it shouldn't throw the timing off enough to need readjusted, right?


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## lordmanxcat (Mar 14, 2009)

High_Speed said:


> Well I might try it. I guess as long as I keep the string distance about the same, it shouldn't throw the timing off enough to need readjusted, right?


it's not the string you're moving around, it's the cables. just adjust the cable rod as such, so that the vanes just clear the string.


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## High_Speed (Oct 9, 2009)

Yeah, sorry that's what I meant. I need to make sure to keep the cables about the same distance away from the string as they are now, right?


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## lordmanxcat (Mar 14, 2009)

High_Speed said:


> Yeah, sorry that's what I meant. I need to make sure to keep the cables about the same distance away from the string as they are now, right?


basically. once you get the rollers on and the cables in the rollers, nock an arrow and make sure you have clearance, not too much, just enough for the vanes to clear, plus just a mouse hair's width more.


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## lordmanxcat (Mar 14, 2009)

here's a photo, hopefully you can see. I turned my cock vane towards the cables so you can hopefully see what i'm getting at.


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## High_Speed (Oct 9, 2009)

I see what you're talking about. Thanks a bunch! Now if I can just find an allen wrench to fit the guide rod, I'll give it a try. haha


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## AfterLife (Sep 11, 2007)

good idea


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## High_Speed (Oct 9, 2009)

Okay, finally found an allen wrench today. Took off the cable guide rod, moved the cables behind it, and then I put it back on. I turned the guide rod a little downward so as to move back closer to the arrow. Does this look normal? I made sure my blazer vanes on my arrows would clear the cable rollers.










Look at this picture, though. Does this look normal?


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## lordmanxcat (Mar 14, 2009)

High_Speed said:


> Okay, finally found an allen wrench today. Took off the cable guide rod, moved the cables behind it, and then I put it back on. I turned the guide rod a little downward so as to move back closer to the arrow. Does this look normal? I made sure my blazer vanes on my arrows would clear the cable rollers.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


looks good. just remember to keep the cables waxed up good to avoid any fray.


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## High_Speed (Oct 9, 2009)

Will do. Thanks for the help!

It's been raining all day here, but hopefully it will stop long enough tomorrow for me to try it out. :darkbeer:


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## CCA WRAPS (Aug 6, 2009)

Saunders Hyper Glide...The only way to go. For me.


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## lordmanxcat (Mar 14, 2009)

CCA WRAPS said:


> Saunders Hyper Glide...The only way to go. For me.


not really a point for this discussion, this is a DIY forum, not a comparison forum.


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## High_Speed (Oct 9, 2009)

CCA WRAPS said:


> Saunders Hyper Glide...The only way to go. For me.


How is that even relevant to this thread? :thumbs_do


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## fat kid (Sep 17, 2009)

I have basicly the same set up but if you will put an "0-ring" between the two rollers.
slightly larger than slide bar. pick it up at hardware store about 25 cents.
it will help with roller noise. ( if you have any).


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## High_Speed (Oct 9, 2009)

fat kid said:


> I have basicly the same set up but if you will put an "0-ring" between the two rollers.
> slightly larger than slide bar. pick it up at hardware store about 25 cents.
> it will help with roller noise. ( if you have any).


Thanks. If it ever stops raining here, I'll try to check the noise.


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## skynight (Nov 5, 2003)

Somebody used to sell replacement rollers like this. I once bought a set but the cables jumped out of them occasionally.

The issue I see is that the cables are not seperated horizontally; they are probably rubbing where they cross instead of being seperated.


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## High_Speed (Oct 9, 2009)

skynight said:


> Somebody used to sell replacement rollers like this. I once bought a set but the cables jumped out of them occasionally.
> 
> The issue I see is that the cables are not seperated horizontally; they are probably rubbing where they cross instead of being seperated.




You may be right. I'll have to keep an eye on mine. Maybe if it stops raining tomorrow....I might actually get to shoot the bow again.


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## fistterma (Oct 16, 2009)

Glad to hear you're using this: I plan to keep it much more aggressively up-to-date than has been the case in the past, but don't hesitate to let me know if you find errors or need clarifications.


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## High_Speed (Oct 9, 2009)

Well rain let up long enough yesterday, and I stepped outside to draw it and see how they fit. No go. Having to move the offset roller guide rod closer to the riser to accommodate moving the cables to the backside of the guide meant that at full draw, the arrow itself would literally drag down the side of the roller guards! 

Very bad deal. I moved the cables back to the front of the guide rod and put the original cable slide back on.


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## cold1984 (Oct 7, 2009)

should be able to


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