# Please Help - Paper Tune puts Rest far to the Right



## elvislives

Hello All,

Purchased a used Hoyt Podium X Elite from a fellow AT member. Add some premium accessories. Leveled and aligned. Rest was visually centered.

Started with paper tune. Standing 9-10 feet from paper. I am a right handed shooter. Initial shots showed far left tear / slightly low. Adjusted rest right and low. Elevation now corrected, but still tears to left. Adjusted rest more to the right. Still tears left (but improved). Again, adjusted right. Still tears left (but much closer). Finally adjusted right and was able to achieve a perfect bullet hole. Bullet hole shots repeated several times to confirm. Perfect bullet hole consistent at 9-10 feet.

Now the problem: My center shot appears to have deviated far to the right from the original visual center of the riser. Began testing at 20 yards. Because my rest is positioned far to the right, I had to move my scope to follow, far to the right. I moved my scope as far to the right as possible, and the impacts are still grouping about 4 inches to the right. I can not move the scope any further.

Looking for possible solutions and/or identifying the problem. Is it me? Is it my equipment? Is it a simple fix? Adjust yoke? Adjust cable guard? Change DL? Use stiffer spine arrow?

Top and Bottom cams appear to be visually centered. Cable guard is only slightly canted inward about 2 (?) degrees. 

Any advice is welcome. Please help.

Here is a list of my set-up:

> Hoyt Podium X Elite 37 inches / 50-60 lb limbs / 27 inch DL / 52 lb DW
> Gold Tip Velocity 400 / 2 in blazer vanes x 3 / 100 gr field tip / 314.5 total weight
> Stan Shootoff Thumb Release
> AAE freakshow extended rest (positioned as far back on riser as possible to minimize torque)
> Axcel Achieve Carbon 9 inch sight (positioned at next to farthest distance)
> Axcel AV25 Scope / 0.010 single pin
> Doinker 30" Platinum Hi Mod front stabilizer / 10 degree down angle
> Doinker 15" Platinum Hi Mod side stabilizer / 10 degree down angle

Thanks.


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## lees

97% chance that it's your form. I had the same symptom a while back though I still had a nock-left even with the arrow almost touching the handle (my rest had that much adjustment  ). In my case it was poor alignment. Bow shoulder too far to the left, angle of bow arm to shoulder line too obtuse. I was both torquing the handle and jamming the release hand into my face as well as trying to pull through the shot with every small muscle in my upper body . 

What you might try is a more "inside" alignment so that you can hold the release completely away from your face without having to hold it with bicep or tricep (the old mental mnemonic of thinking of the release arm as a "chain" connected to the elbow). Then pull with the back muscles equally directly behind you.

See if that effects the left/right. It did for me when I first discovered this in my own form anyway. Worth a try?

lee.


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## erdman41

What's it measure from the riser to center of arrow? What Cam? What's your cam lean look like at brace?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## bow9

I have the same bow exactly and was actually shooting through paper today for a few hours...
Same results as you only I throw right tears.
Here's what I did.
Take stabilizers off of bow put center shot to 13/16 and tune to a billet hole or as close as possible.
I got to where it is a slightly high right tear.
Then I put front bar back on and shot again...
Roughly same year.
Put side bar on shot again.
Made right tear quite a bit worse.
But also bow was wanting to can't to the left pretty hard so I swung it in closer to the string which got it to the same tear I had with no stabs on and fixed the canting issue.
At this point I'm done with paper and will move on to group tuning at distance for the tightest possible groups at 60 yards.
And I don't care what it does through paper when I'm done group tuning.
My point is everybody's form is different that's why sometimes people get different paper tears.
But I bet if you group tune to where you have right groups at 20 and 60 and then check your paper tear it won't be a billet hole anymore.
Paper is just a starting point and not the end point.
The only thing that matters in the end is if you can consistently put your arrow in the dot or twelve ring or whatever at the yardage you are shooting.


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## Rugby

Yoke tune it.

Set your centre shot to where you would expect it to be.
Put some turns in one side of the yoke and see what the tear does. If it gets better you are going the right way. If it is worse then take out the turns you put in and start on the other side.
This should eliminate your errant tears. 

You may observe some cam lean in the top cam at rest which is not uncommon.


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## redman

I have used he same bow with same draw length and I used 500 spine gold tips with 120 grain and 140 grain tips with good grouping on long targets


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## elvislives

Followed advice to yoke tune.

Brought rest back to a visual center. Left sight untouched (ie. far to the right). Took to local pro shop. Added 2 twists to left and removed 2 twists to right. Induced a very, very minimal left cam lean. Proceeded to paper tune with both bare shaft and fletched shafts. Curious results...

Shot bare shaft first. Able to achieve bullet hole with rest moved slightly to right. GREAT! 

Shot fletched shaft next. Able to achieve matching bullet hole with same rest position. GREAT!

Shot BOTH bare and fletched arrows at 20 yards. SAME HOLE!!! SUPER GREAT!!!

Now the problem - BOTH bare and fletched are shooting about 8 inches to the right of my desired point of impact...AND...I am unable to move my scope/sight any further to the right to align with desired point of impact. If I were only able to move my scope further to the right, everything would be perfect.

Don't know how to resolve this?

I tried to play with the cable guard. It was angled as far inward as possible during my bullet hole results. I moved it as far outward (ie straight from riser) as possible to see what happens. More curious results...

The bare shaft hits in the spot (ie. no change induced from cable guard adjustment / 8 inches to right). However, now my fletched arrows are impacting about 2 inches from my desired point of impact.

I'm scratching my head???

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


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## AWT

Walk back tune now


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## Rugby

What AWT said.

You need walk back tune the bow to determine the centreshot position of the rest.

Once you have done that you will need to continue with yoke tuning. I suspect you didn't go far enough with your initial yoke tune.


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## crashdummy6

I was having the same issue but with a different bow.
Carbon Overdrive.
Sent it in, they replaced warped riser. Brand new bow but had warped riser. Go figure.

of course, this can also be cause by a bad grip. Make sure you are doing the 45 degree knuckles facing you thing and don't let the grip cross your palm's lifeline.

Lots of info on here about grip, if in doubt.

When at full draw, look up at your top cam. Does the string come off straight, or at an angle? Play with your grip until it is mostly straight and see how it shoots.

Just something to consider.


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## duc

Set centre shot where the manufacturer says is a staring point and shoot 20 fletched arrow at 50m and see how it groups. This is all that's important at the moment.


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## duc

What's going on? I'm waiting here with my flame suit on.


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## Rugby

No-one on AT read posts from Aussies


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## I'M DK

Rugby said:


> No-one on AT read posts from Aussies


Nonsense.
We generally ignore posts from kiwi's though. :wink:

DK


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## duc

Rugby said:


> No-one on AT read posts from Aussies


That's because after Steve Clifton you have nothing to offer the archery world.:wink:


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## Rugby

I'll let the other two target archers here know what you said.


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## duc

Rugby said:


> I'll let the other two target archers here know what you said.


Sorry mate , I forgot about Shaun.


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## aread

One possibility that seems to seldom happen with Hoyts is that your limbs need to be swapped around. First switch the top limbs. If that works, great. If not, swap the bottom limbs.

this is a frequent problem with PSE's, but I guess it can happen with any split limb bow.

Allen


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## Bobmuley

Could you take a picture of your scope? You might have to suck the scope-rod barrel into the holder a little more.


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