# Ross Cardiac Cam Timing/Position



## XX78Dad (Sep 13, 2004)

Put a new set of strings on my bud's Cardiac 34 and was wondering what the factory uses to determine correct cam position. 

He does not have his owners manuel. I see there is a hole in the cam, close to where the limb crosses it, and I guess that has something to do with relative cam/limb position. 

Any specifics? Thanks.


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## Bownut60 (Feb 3, 2011)

I have a Ross Cardiac I bought in 2008, it was the last year before G5 took over. Anyhow, the upper edge of the lower limb is suppose to cross the middle of that hole in the cam with the bow undrawn. There is a picture of this in the owners manual if you can find one and also an excellent photo of the cam/limb relation in an article on bow set up by "Lawler Outdoors" that was shown on Hunting net.com. I have both of these pictures but am new to computers and don't know how to get pictures transfered onto the screen. It's an easy process and from experience I can tell you it makes a difference that you can feel. The cardiac is a sweet, smooth shooting bow. By the way, thanks for your response to my problem with my GT-500.


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## Make It Happen (Oct 26, 2010)

well... here is a question for you do you bottom out the limbs before bringing the cam into alignment or afterwards? So if you time the came maxed out at say 60lbs and then the shooter brings it home and descides to drop the weight to a more comfortabl 54lbs is the bow still tuned even if the screw and hole are now not perectly aligned anymore?
or 
should you tune and adjust the cam at the aprx lbs you want or plan to shoot at? It doesnt go into detail in the owners manual on this. And how off in either direction makes a substantial difference in how it shoots, etc?

I have an 08 Cardiac and bottomed and backed off 1.4 turn then tuned it. Came in around 62lbs... The bow shops near me have adjusted it but no one really knows how to tune these Ross's for the most part. And I will keep that in mind when I buy my next bow. If they still made it or its a popular model you will get a tech with more experience working on it. Myself I wish and I feel I need a bow press to play with this bow. And a chrono to see the effects of cam position, etc. Otherwise I feel like its guess work and I hate guess work. 

Now I have received good responses from members on AT but the problem is they all seem o vary!

Who on here has owned and tuned these bows to absolute perfection and knows the proper way??? anyone... Please Post for us Cardiac Owners
ps... I back my lbs down and the cam came into better alignment. The bow store didnt have it perfect and I didnt want to drive them nuts about it. So it was slightly off... now I back down the lbs and its seems to be in a better position. So is it better - WHO KNOWS OUT HERE?
ttt


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## Make It Happen (Oct 26, 2010)

jtascone seems to be a good contact on the Ross Cardiac and has been very helpful & he's a nice guy to boot! XX78 where in PA are you from? Are you close to Trenton ish area of NJ?


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## jtascone (Feb 27, 2007)

The proper cam position for the Cardiac is such that the edge of the draw module screw is tangent with the inside edge of the lower limb. While also maintaining the proper specs as far as ATA and BH. All tuning is done with the bow "maxed out". You do NOT retune or retime the cam after lowering the draw weight to your desired draw weight. When lowering draw weight, both limbs are to be backed off exact equal amounts. It may appear as if the cam rotated out of tune after lowering the weight, but in reality it is the limbs that have moved, not the cam rotation. This is not my opinion, it is information taken from a question that was asked right off the old Ross Forum that was answered by a tech from Ross.


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## talon1961 (Mar 13, 2008)

Here you go.


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## talon1961 (Mar 13, 2008)

This one is a little better. One of the guys on here, goes by Weave, can tell you a lot about Ross Cardiacs. He was one of the developers of the Ross Archery Forum and knows a ton about how to tune them. The small hole on the outer edge of the cam should be half exposed on the inner surface of the limb, and the mod screw should be tangent to the limb. Mine is now hidden under the limb, but that is after changing the cam mod to a 30", adjusting the draw weight to 72# from the 76 it maxes out at. To me it is just perfect at this setting. Bottomed out limbs, the hole is as pictured.


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