# Newbie question about Bear Weather Rest and J2 rest??



## SlowBowInMO (Dec 4, 2003)

The Bear Weather rest is a very good and inexpensive rest, they have found there way onto several of my bows. You do not need a plunger, but they will accept one if you want. I try to mount them as low down to the shelf as possible, with the arrow contact point aligned with the deepest part of the grip.

I fear your arrows are way too stiff, I would think something along the lines of a 2117 would be much closer. Easton charts for stickbows have been ridiculously overspined for years.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

A -

SlowBowInMo pretty much covered it all. 

Only things I'd add, is that before you put the rest on, you clean off the area on the riser with some alcohol or similar. You'll get better adhesion. Depending on which rest you get, you might find a little flap of plastic, over the arrow holder. By trimming that, you've got a new tuning parameter. (If the arrow is too stiff, you can trim the plastic ear down  )

... and yes, agree with the 2117, the ones you mentioned are a bit stiff.

Viper1 out.


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## A.Martin (Apr 30, 2007)

Do they make more than one kind of bear weather rest? The ones that I see on ebay look like a oval piece of plastic with a fixed "arm" out at an angle with "Bear" logo on it. And the J2 looks almost the same only the arm has a little up-turn at the end. Which one is better? Also if I go to a 145gr tip, would that help with the arrow spine? If not, does anyone need 2 dozen 2415 ss eastons? I almost forgot, by eliminating the wraps, will that "weaken" the spine any? Thanks for the help.

Anthony


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

A. 

Personal perference between the Weather and J-2, I have several of both. Only thing is, if the bow is cut close to or past centershot, the little flap gives you more "wiggle" room to tune.

Theoretically remving a wrap should weaken the spine, but haven't never used them (think they are kinda dumb, really) can't say how much they weigh and what the real difference would be.

Viper1 out.


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## A.Martin (Apr 30, 2007)

Viper1

I have come to agree with you on the "wraps". This was the first time to try them. I don't remember where, but I read something about the wraps increasing spine. Since I intend to hunt with my bow, I tune with broadheads. I have found that if you "shave" a feather with a shot, you have to re-fletch the entire arrow(too much work and $$). After looking at the two rests, it looks like the J2 has the "flap" you are refering to above the arm that holds the arrow. If I understand correctly, by trimming this down, it will become "stiffer" putting more pressure on the arrow at release, helping with the overspine by pushing the arrow away from the riser.

One more thing. What "fletching" orientation works with these kinds of rests? I have 3 feathers, and currently shoot cock feather "in". I read on a website that this works really good because the feather misses the riser as the arrow goes through its paradox. However, this was shooting from the "shelf". Any suggestions? Thanks again for the help with this!

Anthony


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

A. -

OK, you've got a lot of questions, let's try them one at a time.

1 Adding weight to the rear of a arrow stiffens spine, more weight, the stiffer the arrow. As I asid, I have no idea what the wraps weigh, so I can adise you on that. (It's the opposite of adding weight tot he front.)

2. Wraps and fletching. Usually, when a feather is shot off, the arrow gets re-fletched. I don't try to refletch a single feather - to easy to misalign the new feather and that WILL affect accuracy. Till it does, I usually remove the remaining feathers and it goes into the bareshaft pile till the next time I have a fletching party. Despite what people say, I can usually strip off feathers on an aluminum arrow is less than a minute, the wraps are just one more thing to remove (did I mention I don't like fletching arrows???)

3. Yes, the J-2 has the "flap". By trimming it, you're bringing the arrow closer to centershot and THAT condition allows for a stiffer arrow. The other part you picked up on: by shortening the flap, makes the "strike plate" stiffer (like tightening the sping on a cushion plunger) and that allows for a softer arrow (less play = further from center = allows for a softer arrow). The position of the arrow at launch have a greater effect on dynamic spine than the stiffness of the cushion, so I wouldn't worry too much about that - yet.

4. Fletch orientation, it the rig is tuned correctly it shouldn't matter if you shoot cock feather in or out, paradox will be sufficient to clear the riser either way. I shoot cock feather out, just out of convention.

5, Yes, you will have to move your nocking point and retune the bow!

Hope that helped.

Viper1 out.


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## A.Martin (Apr 30, 2007)

Viper1

Clear as crystal. I had not thought of the problem with replacing just one feather. That will save me a problem and you another question down the road. Well, it sounds like I got some work to do. Thanks for your time and all the help.

BTW- I tried the fletching tape and definitely fell into the "can't get it to behave" catagory. Going to stick with my Fletch-tite and take it slow and easy. Thanks again!

Anthony


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