# Bare shaft, nock right????



## dahmer

According to the Beman chart if anything you are a hair stiff but nothing that should cause you this much trouble. Try a lighter point then try a heavier point to see what happens and let us know. Paper to me is just a starting point. How it flies and groups is the test then if broadheads group with the fieldpoints I'm done.


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## BDZ65

In my experience with bare shaft tuning, the arrow impacting the target nock right is the same as a nock right tear in paper. For a right handed shooter with a nock right paper tear I would be adjusting the arrow rest further from the riser. Also when I bare shaft tune I compare where bare shafts impact vs. fletched shafts, not the angle they impact at. Spine can be very important here, so make sure you do your homework when selecting an arrow.

Brian


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## CarbonTerry

My experience with bare shaft tuning is that you are trying to get bare shafts to group with fletched shafts. The angle of the entry of the bare shaft is unimportant. You will find that once the bow is properly tuned the angle of entry will be relatively straight. It is suggested by Easton that the bare shafts should impact SLIGHTLY lower than fletched shafts.
Spine and vane clearance are very important. Check for clearance otherwise you are wasting your time.


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## shaun748

nock right usually indicates SPINE STIFF...


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## dtrkyman

i couldnt get a piece of rebar to shoot tail right out of my switchback!!!


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## P.L. Archery

The angle of entry is ABSOLUTELY important with bare shafts. Thats the whole purpose of bare shaft tuning in my experience.

The absolute easiest way to tune a bow for good broadhead flight is bare shaft PAPER tuning. Let me say that again...bare shaft PAPER tuning.

It's not in the Easton guide yet but it will be soon. It's one of those "DOH, why didn't I think of that" things. Think about this very carefully, [if your arrow flies perfectly straight through paper at all yardages out to 15 yards indoors with no wind, then it has no choice but to fly perfect with fletching and BH's attached] assuming of course that the heads are aligned properly to the shaft/insert.

You will also find that point of impact is right-on as well. Say goodbye to all that time spent group tuning and walkback tuning.

A word of warning though... imperfect form will NOT be hidden with this tuning method.


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## P.L. Archery

Sorry about that, back to the original question.

You're moving the rest the wrong way. If your nock is leaving to the right, then move your rest to the left, not the right.

Also make sure your sight is level(bubble), and your pins are plumb. This could cause left/right variences at farther yardages. And remember that slight form flaws are greatly enhanced with bare shafts.

The Korean Archery team practices whith bare shafts to keep consistant form.

One other thing, as far as the spine is concerned. If the rest is far enough off to one side, it will probably tear that way weather it's too stiff OR too weak. It also varies with the amount of cam/ideler lean, and horizontal nock travel. I don't like to judge tears as showing too stiff or not.With the use of arrow charts thees days its easy to have the correct spine with using a release. IMO


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## Jabwa

BDZ65:

Yep.

P.L. Archery:

I agree about bare shaft paper tuning, but not about the angle of entry of a bare shaft into a target being important. My reason is the angle of entry is affected too much by the lack of homogeneity of the target material. Try shooting into a box full of rags to get a good idea of what I mean.


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## P.L. Archery

I agree, that's why I said angle of entry, not angle at rest.

I think we're on the same page here but don't realize it. Thats why I use paper when bareshaft tuning...I don't trust target medium to be consistant.


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## CarbonTerry

I know that the Easton Tuning Guide says that if you are getting a nock right tear to move the rest to the left.
Consider this....on a nock right tear the point is entering the paper to the left of the nock. Why would moving the point (rest) even farther to the left fix the problem?
You can't change how the nock enters the paper but you can change how the point enters the paper.


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## CarbonTerry

I should have been more precise in my earlier post. I meant to say that the angle of entry into the target (not paper) was relatively unimportant.


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## Jabwa

Carbon Terry:

In my experience for a right handed shooter for a right handed archer moving the rest to the left may eliminate a right paper tear AT A DISTANCE OF 5 YARDS. I think what has happened is the arrow has kicked back the other way by that time in its flight.


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## Scrap Iron

Right on P.L.Archery. 
I also do the bare shaft paper tune. I think if can get a perfect bullethole in paper you will find that your form is now right for your bow. Or as we like to call it your bow is now tune. I then shoot a few fletched arrows through the paper just to see if any thing has changed. I now can start to group tune which in my case if I can keep the pin in the same spot I will find that the bow is already group tuned. Like y'all said don't stress on how the angle of the nock is after you shoot it in the target. I look to see if my fletched arrows and the bare shafts are hitting near the same spot.


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## BDZ65

P.L. Archery,
I agree 100% with bare shaft paper tuning. I have done this with all my bows, but I do not recommend it for everyone. If your form leaves something to be desired or your bow has nock travel issues, bare shaft paper tuning will take 10 years off your life!! I recently purchased an AR-37 and a Mach 11, both of these bows are very tunable with bare shafts, but I cannot say this for all the bows I have owned.

Brian


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## bowhunter0916

*I wonder...*

I wonder if the WB isnt part of the problem. Since the whiskers are in contact some or all of the time that the arrow is moving through the rest, if it couldnt effect the flight at greater distances. Maybe it would be difficult to notice at closer range. I dont think I could get rid of my drop away.


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## Jorge Oliveira

If one is going to fine bare shaft tune, it's important to add weight to the rear of the shaft (where the vanes are).

I do it with tape, adding layers until the shaft balances the same as an arrow (same FOC).


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## MKD

How about this, Eastons tuning guide shows my paper tear as low nocking point at 6 feet and to raise the nock and my bare shaft results show nocking point to high at 15 to 20 yards and to move it up.  

Go figure. Maybe I am missing something


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## CarbonTerry

Please, review your last post as you have contradicted the results. (as posted)


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## Arrroman

gun said:


> I'm shooting a 29 1/2" Beman Black Max 340 with a 125 grain practice tip out of a 60# @ 29 1/2" Switchback with a Whisker Biscuit rest. Right hand shooter.
> 
> I started at 5 yards and adjusted the rest so the bare shaft was impacting straight into the target ( sand bunker). I moved back in 5 yard increments and at 20-25 yards the nock is about 3"s to the right.
> 
> The arrow is now centered 9/16" from the riser. If I continue to move it to the right I won't have any vane clearance.
> 
> Is there something I am overlooking? Are the 340's the wrong spine?
> 
> Help please.


Gun,


The shafts may be a bit stiff but they should work.

I would set the bow at an even tiller and nock the arrow at 90degrees to the bowstring.

The windage for the rest should be determined by positioning the rest so that the bow shoots the narrowest groups at all yardages. When the arrows all fall on the same vertical line at all ranges you have the windage set correctly.

Often the correct position for the rest for a right-handed shooter will be about 1/8" to the outside of the centerline of the bow. So adjusting the rest 1/8" left of center may be where you want be. Start with the rest centered with the centerline of the cams and the bowstring. If your whisker biscuit doesn't have the graduations on it just scribe a line on the right side of the windage bar using a fineline felt-tip marker. Move the rest to left in 1/16" increments as you go, marking before you adjust. I shoot an arrow at 10-20-30yards and adjust as needed till its done. Then adjust the sight to where the arrows hit.

A bareshaft and a fletched shaft should hit the same if the bow is in tune and the rest is adjusted properly.

A very stiff shaft may require a heavier point to shoot well from your bow. My MQ2XL needed 140grain points in order to shoot a stiff arrow right.

Good luck hunting! >>>------------>


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