# Long range longbows



## Lanny (May 4, 2005)

I know there's a few guys here who regularly shoot their longbows out to ridicuously long -- 80 yards -- ranges. I would like to be able to consistently hit a paper plate at 50 yards with my 47# Abbott longbow. What's the key to hitting at long range without sights? Are some folks just naturally gifted or is this something we can all do with enough hard work and tuned equipment? For those who can do it -- hit well enough at 50+ yards to keep their arrows in an 8" paper plate day in and day out -- please tell me your equipment: bow, draw weight, arrows, rests, and your practice routines. Thanks.


----------



## steve morley (Dec 24, 2005)

On a good day on my walkback training I can pretty much keep a 6" group out to 50 yards and I keep shooting till I reach 100 yards.

Walkback training is a good way to build longer shots, start off 10 yards, take a shot and walkback 5 yards, each time you score walkback 5 yards and see how far you can get before missing two shots, if you miss two shots go back half the distance i.e 40 yards go back to 20 yards. This does two things builds a picture in your brain of whare to aim by repetition and playing it like a game keeps you focused and not just flinging arrows.

if you can find your 'point on' distance this will help with the long shots the other key factor is shooting form, you can get away with a huge amount at short range but longer shots the slightest form error shows up downrange. I'm shooting a 45# Blackbrook 'Zeta' double Carbon with 450g POC's and my point-on is 60 yards shooting split finger.

Maintaining 6" group on walkback is easier than just walking up to 50 yard Field target cold but it does build confidence in the aiming method and shooting form, being confident that you can do it means you half way there. I only know 5 other IFAA tourney shooters (all either current or former world\European champs) that can shoot those kinds of groups with a Longbow, pie plate might be ambitious but in the 4 ring on a hunter field face it possible with practice


----------



## BowmanJay (Jan 1, 2007)

yeah you will never be consistent simply using instinctive methods. I use a spot on my riser/limb based on what distance I am to help with distance. Obviously for unknown distances, this complicates the matter. I line up the mark on my bow to the bull and adjust so the arrow is pointed at the bullseye. All you have to do then is assure that you are pulling the same amount each time and your form is correct. I know there are many other ways to accomplish this as well.


----------



## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

I recently decided to start practicing for a 900 American Round competition. It shoots to 60 yards, and I wanted to be able to participate barebow or sighted.

The first thing I needed was to get my "point on" distance. Using my well established three-under hook and side of face anchor always gave me a "point on" ~25 yards. I needed to move it back to a farther yardage.

Having now changed to split-finger and under chin anchor, my "point on" is way out there - well within the limits of the shoot mentioned above. I'm shooting 38# on an ILF rig.

Having a good aiming reference is essential to consistency at the longer ranges, but as others have stated, form is very important. Most important for me now in this regard is arrow creep. My vertically aligned target contacts are pretty good, but controlling for trajectory drop due to slight creeps at release cause my inconsistencies on the up and down at the target.


----------



## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

I'm nowhere near a pie plate at long ranges, but I do strive to shoot well and love distant targets. As was said, form is a big role. I use a variant of the "split" or gap shooting, with the arrow as a reference _with_ the target. 

Another thing to note: if there's something wrong with your arrows, it'll become very apparent very quickly:lol:.


----------



## BLACK WOLF (Aug 26, 2005)

Lanny said:


> What's the key to hitting at long range without sights?


If you already have good consistant form that promotes consistant accuracy...than all you need is a reliable barebow aiming technique/techniques...and like others here have already said...you'll be better off learning a more conscious aiming technique such as Point of Aim or Gap for examples rather than learning Instinctive aiming for longer distances.



Lanny said:


> Are some folks just naturally gifted or is this something we can all do with enough hard work and tuned equipment?


Yes...some people are naturally gifted...BUT...an archer who isn't naturally gifted can do amazing things if they have the passion, dedication, coaching/knowledge and commitment to strive for excellence.



Lanny said:


> For those who can do it -- hit well enough at 50+ yards to keep their arrows in an 8" paper plate day in and day out -- please tell me your equipment: bow, draw weight, arrows, rests, and your practice routines.


How about no more than a 12" - 16" paper plate day in & day out? :wink:

I personally don't know to many archers, who can consistantly hit within an 8" circle surronding the bullseye day in and day out barebow...but I'm pretty sure there a few that exist.

I personally use my hunting bow/bows when I compete...just because I like to compete with what I'm gonna hunt with. They draw between 65 & 70lbs. at 29" and I use footed Easton Axis 300 arrows with 175g. tips

My practice routines always involve some form of Blank Bale training, The Bridge and other forms of target practice.

I mix it up alot to keep it interesting for me...while still being effective.

Ray :wink:


----------



## Hawksnest88 (Dec 12, 2005)

steve morley said:


> I'm shooting a 45# Blackbrook 'Zeta' double Carbon with 450g POC's and my point-on is 60 yards shooting split finger.


Steve, what is your draw length ? Thanks, Bill


----------



## Lanny (May 4, 2005)

Thanks for the responses. I've tried anchoring under the chin like I see Oly recurve shooters do and am getting more comfortable with this. I shoot a 47# Abbott longbow, drawing maybe 44# at my 27" draw length. I've been vascillating between 28" 1916 and 2016 Easton Legacy arrows with 100-gr. field points trying to figure which to use. Both seem to fly well. Anyone know which is the proper match to my bow? I'm thinking that the 2016s are probably a better match for my 53# Shrew recurve.

I will try the practice routines talked about here. They seem logical and I understand Mr. Morley is someone who knows a thing or two about the long shot. Thanks to everyone for their help. I hope to someday join you all in ranks of able longbow shooters.


----------



## steve morley (Dec 24, 2005)

Hawksnest88 said:


> Steve, what is your draw length ? Thanks, Bill


Using a 28" arrow with 27 and half inches with side of face anchor, arrow tip just forward of the riser.









Fita 3D world champs, Italy


Lanny let us all know how your long game develops


----------



## Eldermike (Mar 24, 2009)

Lanny said:


> Thanks for the responses. I've tried anchoring under the chin like I see Oly recurve shooters do and am getting more comfortable with this. I shoot a 47# Abbott longbow, drawing maybe 44# at my 27" draw length. I've been vascillating between 28" 1916 and 2016 Easton Legacy arrows with 100-gr. field points trying to figure which to use. Both seem to fly well. Anyone know which is the proper match to my bow? I'm thinking that the 2016s are probably a better match for my 53# Shrew recurve.
> 
> I will try the practice routines talked about here. They seem logical and I understand Mr. Morley is someone who knows a thing or two about the long shot. Thanks to everyone for their help. I hope to someday join you all in ranks of able longbow shooters.



When I shoot aluminum I shoot 1916's with 145 grain tips @28 inches in a 45lb Thomahawk longbow. I had them with 100 grain points but as I walked back they would shoot high and left, the 145 points solved that issue.


----------



## Lanny (May 4, 2005)

Thanks Eldermike, I'll give that a try. I need to pick up some more arrows anyhow. My Abbott is a "D" style longbow with very shallow center cut and nearly a broom handle. Does any of this have any effect on how to hold and shoot the bow? Good pic Steve, where were you? What wooden arrows do you use with your bow?


----------



## steve morley (Dec 24, 2005)

Lanny said:


> Good pic Steve, where were you? What wooden arrows do you use with your bow?


Lanny it was the Fita 3D world champs in Italy from last month, short range 3D (33 yards). The target distances wern't hard but a lot of pressure to shoot thoses 10's and with elimination rounds added, Tv and public watching made it even more pressured, it was first Fita international for me and considering I normally shoot longer Field rounds it was kind of an unexpected but pleasing result.

Arrows used are my own made 11/32 POC's, 4" parabolic fletch, 125g points with around 450g finished weight (arrows have to be top quality to shoot long range). The Bow was 5 weeks old (my 3rd from that Bowyer) took a little working out as it shoots much flatter than any of his previous Bows, short range being the most difficult to get a feel for.

The Longbow your using will need to be heeled with the palm of the hand a little more than normal, a lot of people prefer these more simple locator handles as it feels easier to get a repeatable hand position. One of the best things you can do is get MBB3 and watch Rod's and my good friend Larry Yien's section, both of their form is very strong and the kind of form you need to work towards to be able shoot long range well.


----------



## Raider2000 (Oct 21, 2003)

As soon as Hunting season is over I'll continue my target training for longer distance by incorporating the point of aim technique since with the heavy arrows that I shoot & my Anchor point is the thumb against the back of the jaw bone & pointer against my Eye tooth my point of aim is around 40ish yards.

A new concept for me since I've never used this type of aiming technique before this year for Field shots.


----------

