# PAPER TUNING vs WALK BACK TUNING



## TPG

I have arrows that for the life of me will NOT papertune, but group beautifully.

In the same aspect, I have arrows that papertune great, but group "ok".

YMMV


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## fletched

No matter what tuning method you choose, the bow has to be set up properly so that it can be tuned. If it won't paper tune, walkback tuning isn't the answer either. I read a lot of post where people state that paper tuning is a waste of time or it is just a starting point. Most of the time, these statements are made because, like you, they can't get their bow to paper tune so they go outside and give it a walkback tune and say that it's tuned. 

The bottom line is that if it won't paper tune, there is something that needs to be adjusted.

If you have idler lean, that needs to be addressed before shooting through the paper.

First, tune the bow
Second, tune the arrows

Get the bow setup properly. Get the poundage, drawlength, ata and bh to spec, cam/idler lean, cam position/timing correct, nocking point correct first. Once these are set, they shouldn't need moved. Now that the bow is set up correct, you don't have to worry about that part anymore and can concentrate on tuning the arrow.

During the bow setup, a rest will need to be installed to establish a nocking point. Next, adjust the left/right and up/down by eye or the use of a laser and/or level. Remember that you will need to choose an arrow that is properly spined. Shoot it through paper at point blank range and adjust the rest to get as good of a hole as possible. Next, move back about 3 feet and shoot, step back another 3 feet and shot again. Do this to around 8-12 yards and don't make anymore adjustments yet until you complete the sequence. Shoot in a specific order through the paper so you can track the shot and relate it to the yardage. I shoot from left to right and shoot about 4+ shots in one row and make another row with 4+ more shots. Once you have a series completed, look at every hole and look at the overall flight of your arrow and make the adjustments according to this. Then repeat the process. 

Make sure you are using good form and a good grip. Make sure you don't have any hard face contact on the string. This can make tuning impossible if too much face contact is allowed on the string. You may want to experiment with this before shooting a session through the paper. 

Paper tuning and walkback should accomplish the same thing and one isn't a bandaid for the other.


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## double l

*Here's is some helpful information from one of the Mathews techs.*

http://forums.mathewsinc.com/archery-4/technical-faq-28/the-vince-tuning-method-idler-lean-revision-43030/


http://forums.mathewsinc.com/archery-4/technical-faq-28/vince-s-dynamic-bow-setup-and-tuning-43031/


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## bulldog18

If you cannot get it to paper tune, walk back tuning will not help. You definately have an idler lean issue. Follow the steps in the mathews forum limks previuosly listed and you should be shooting bullet holes in no time. I always paper tune, then walk back tune to refine it.


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## Baldwin Buck

All great advice. at my league shooting last night, alot of my buddies use to shoot SBXT's and most have now stepped up to the Z7. but at some point in their days with the SBXT, they had to change out the bushings for the idler wheel. so, i will try that to see if the wheel will straighen out some. we were also able to punch good holes if i torqued the bow opposite of the idler wheel lean. so this tells me most of my problems with be taken are of with little to do to my bow. at least this is all in theory!

thanks for the help and advice. what a great site!


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## flopduster

tag


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## deanharder

after you get your leaner fixed, make sure your arrow and fletching isn't making contact with your rest on its way out, this contact can make tuning a pain.


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## gridman

you said that when you run an arrow down the string, that it crosses the string to 1/8" at the nock?? if you lay an arrow on the idler, and run it down on the shelf side, it should be on the same side, but 1/8"ooff the string. sounds like your idler is leaning the wrong way


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## nomad11

As a starting point I think one's arrow should parallel the string. That said its a starting point. With an arrow that is spined correctly one could achieve good centershot and level idler lean...across the board. Factors, outside of ideal spine, that impact overall idler lean includes rest setting, spine, and bow poundage (they are related, not mutually exclusive!). I've changed bow poundage (1/4 turn on the bolts), rest setting and idler lean...all in combination....to achieve the desired performance. In some instances I've induced some slight idler lean to get the desired results. To set idler parallel and never touch it is to take away one's options..its there to use, adjust and work in one's favor. Its final setting is not an absolute. I'd say set idler even, the rest centershot as recommended and change arrow spine and poundage in combo to achieve optimum performance - assuming or testing for no contact at the shot, and nock pinch. Getting a rest setting that is extreme, as described, is indicative of a substantive issue somewhere else...where-ever that is.


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