# Bowtech Solution SS and form question



## justified07 (Dec 27, 2013)




----------



## justified07 (Dec 27, 2013)




----------



## justified07 (Dec 27, 2013)




----------



## raisins (Jan 21, 2016)

did you start with the arrow's center around 13/16" from the straight line distance to the riser?

i have a revolt, which is about the same bow as the ss

it was very easy to setup and visually everything checks out as normal

because of the high letoff on comfort, i do pull a bit into the backwall...but it is not really hard


----------



## raisins (Jan 21, 2016)

justified07 said:


> View attachment 7722761


i would make microchanges to my grip and see what that does....changing how far the grip pressure point is from the thumb


----------



## justified07 (Dec 27, 2013)

I originally set it up with the arrow at 13/16, and set the cams in the position called for, all the way to the right and back 1.5 turns. bad right tear. the arrow at that point was already pointing way left. I moved the cams right and can get a bareshaft bullet hole, but the cable hits the top cam. the distance from that cable to the cam static is around 1/16 and it is obvious it is hitting the cam. The serving shows so, and there is a mark on the cam.

I started all over and moved the cams to the left to gain clearance with the cable, but now the rest is way left....\

I also moved my grip around quite a bit with very little change. I even went so far as putting dish soap on the grip to make my hand slide into a neutral position.

I wonder when I look at the picture form the rear, is my elbow is pretty far behind my head, but if you look at the bow, it is pointing left and the string is right of the cam. That has to have something t do with it in my form.


----------



## justified07 (Dec 27, 2013)

Oh, and I'll add this too. When the bow is static, just sitting there, and the cams where they need to be for a bullet hole, the top cam is sitting like this.../. If you look at the pic form behind, the cam looks like...\. 
With this bow and the deadlock system, do most have the arrow pointing way left when the bow is static for a right hander? Is it the nature of the beast, or am I torqueing it somewhere?


----------



## Mossy-Back (Feb 9, 2020)

Sounds like maybe the limbs are in the wrong positions. I don't remember which side the stiffer limbs should be on, but I'm sure someone does.

From what I can see in your last form pic the cam is straight in line with the riser, but you are canting the bow to the left. Could just be the angle of the picture.

Have you tried adding more heel pressure to your grip hand?


----------



## justified07 (Dec 27, 2013)

Looking from the rear of the bow, my limbs are top left 1470, top right 1430, bottom left 1470, bottom right 1430.

I may have to try for a better picture, my wife was helping me. The bow is level with the sight bubble, which is on with the riser level. It doesn't help with all those lines from my woodshed in the background helping throw it off visually...


----------



## justified07 (Dec 27, 2013)

I also tried more heel pressure and even high wrist. I started gripping it like a video I found from Griz. I put the hand up in there relaxed as far up as it naturally slides. Then I roll the heel down in. I can stay real consistent with that grip. The crazy thing is no matter how I move the grip around, there is not alot of change. It stays very consistent. I just wanted to get the cable away from the top cam so they stop hitting, but then I have to jack the rest way left.


----------



## Mossy-Back (Feb 9, 2020)

How much point weight are you using? If you can get your hands on a few 350 spine shafts/arrows it might be worth trying out. 

Maybe start from scratch with both cams centered exactly, center shot at 3/4" (the solutions seem to like that center shot better than 13/16 from what I've seen).


----------



## justified07 (Dec 27, 2013)

Oh, thanks Mossy-Back, I forgot that. I was shooting 125 grains, inserts are standard hit inserts, I guess around 16 or so grains. I did drop down to 100 grain to see if that would help, but it seemed about the same. I like the idea of trying some 350 arrows.

It doesn't take much with these to move cams, so I'll set them dead center. I assume that would be move them all the way left, move them right, count the turns and them move left again half that. I'll move the rest to 3/4 too.

That will work for a good starting point to for all who may chip in on this one. All will know where I am set at.


----------



## Mossy-Back (Feb 9, 2020)

Yes, either count the turns and get them centered, or if you have a caliper you can measure each side. For center shot after cams are centered just make sure it's the same from the riser to the center of the shaft at the front and rear of the shelf. 

Besides lowering point weight you could also back the limb bolts out and lower the poundage just to try it and see if it changes the tear. 

Are you shooting bareshafts or fletched through paper? And at what distance? How are they grouping downrange?


----------



## justified07 (Dec 27, 2013)

There is the thing.... I try to get the arrow parallel, the same distance in the front and rear of the shelf, but then I end up with the cams all the way right, cable hitting the top cam, and then I have to move the rest left which blows the arrow parallel to the riser out the door.

I am shooting bareshaft through paper at about 6-8 feet. When I tune for a bullet hole, the bareshaft will hit with the fletched out to 30. My target is a bag though, so it is hard to say what angle they are sticking in there.

I am going to center it up, move the rest, shoot it through the paper and attach a pic.


----------



## Mossy-Back (Feb 9, 2020)

Center the cams, then move the rest left/right to get the shaft parallel with the riser. Then leave the rest alone.


----------



## justified07 (Dec 27, 2013)

Ok... so I have no idea what I did different before when I did all this but... Here is what I did...
#1- I moved the cams all the way left. Then moved them right and counted the turns back (3.5 turns). I then moved the cam back left 1.75 turns.
#2- I measured the distance between both cams and the deadlock blocks. I adjusted them until they were within .002 center.
#3- I moved the rest back to where the distance was within .020 from the front of the riser to the arrow and the rear of the riser shelf and the arrow. I could not make them equal because I am using an Epsilom rest and the launcher arm would hit the rest mounting block if I made them equal. I'll have to take it apart and use the other holes in the mount and readjust this. Anyway, it was close to being equal.
#4- I dropped the draw length back down to 26.5.
#5- When I shot, I tried to straighten my posture, I have a tendency to stick my neck out there.
Now I have a slight tail left! That should mean that when I adjust the rest to be exactly the same front and rear with the riser (which will move it right), it may bullet hole!

I did this twice before! I have no idea why this time was different, but I am not going to complain. Obviously I did something wrong before both times and repeated it.

Oh and by the way, from the riser to the center of the arrow worked out to be .724 of an inch, just under 1/32 of 3/4 center shot.


----------

