# DIY antler mount



## minnow (Mar 2, 2006)

Because most of us can't find our butts with both hands, do you care to share the step by step procedure. What's flocking and flocking glue?


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

First sand the waxy finish from the form. They coat the mold with wax to keep the form from sticking. You need to sand this off so the glue will stick to the form.









You'll need to cut the horns about 1/4" below and behind the burs of the horns. After that, drill 2-3 holes to allow you to secure the horns with the screws. You can also use the drill with a philips head to do this.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

Next, mix a small amount of bondo.








This will take several layers of bondo the finish. The first layer, you'll want to make sure that you get it down in between the skull plate and form.

















You'll want to sand or cut the bondo as soon as it set's. There's a short time there that you can use a sharp painters putty knife to cut the excess off. It only takes bondo about 2-3 minutes to set.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

Once you get the bondo built up to where it's even with the form, you're ready to flock it. It doesn't need to have an automotive finish, the glue and flocking will cover some of the "dents".


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

I use and old hobby type of paint bottle to apply my flocking. They do sell a special flocking gun but, i've found the bottle works fine. I fill the bollte with flocking, which is rayon fibers

















And then apply the glue with a brush, starting below the buttons and working outward.


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## the switchback (Feb 27, 2008)

Are we going to get to see the finished product?


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

As soon as you finish applying the glue, apply the flocking. I put mine on a piece of news paper so that I can reclaim the excess.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

It takes about 2 hrs for the glue to dry enough to brush the excess flocking off.









And the finished product.


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## tmolina (Nov 20, 2005)

*pics when done*

looks good...


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## NW.Iowan (Jul 28, 2006)

*cool*

hey that's really cool


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

I just drill an angled hole in the back to hang mine on the walls.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

minnow said:


> Because most of us can't find our butts with both hands, do you care to share the step by step procedure. What's flocking and flocking glue?


Flocking is rayon fibers and I don't know what the glue is made of. I order it from Van *****


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## celticgladiator (Feb 13, 2008)

looks pretty cool.


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## lpdoghunter (Mar 28, 2006)

Pretty sweet. Thanks for sharing


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## minnow (Mar 2, 2006)

Pretty cool. Looks better then my homemade jobs that I do with plaster-of-paris. About how much for the taxidermy supplies? How many can you do with a given amount of flocking and body bondo?


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

minnow said:


> Pretty cool. Looks better then my homemade jobs that I do with plaster-of-paris. About how much for the taxidermy supplies? How many can you do with a given amount of flocking and body bondo?


When I started doing these I used plaster-of-paris too. Problem with plaster and the flocking is, if it gets dropped it cracks. A taxidermist friend told me about the bondo. It cost about 9-10 dollars to do one. I bought a pound of flocking about 7 yrs ago and i've done 7-8 elk, 15-20 deer and 2 antelope. I think you can buy the flocking in a 1/4# bag and the glue, I buy 4oz. bottle at a time. That will be enoungh to do 6-8 deer. I can usually do 6-8 deer with a qt of bondo and I buy it in the automotive dept at Wally World.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

Here's 4 that I just finished for a freind. The big WT measures 19 3/4" inside. The antelope's are the first ones that i've done and I don't like the form the VanDykes has. To me it looks like an animated ant with horns.


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## minnow (Mar 2, 2006)

Thanks for all the tips and answers. Great pics too.:darkbeer:


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## Death Blow (Sep 3, 2007)

Looks pretty good. How did you bust up your finger?


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

minnow said:


> Thanks for all the tips and answers. Great pics too.:darkbeer:


If you have any other questions PM me and i'll try to answer them


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

Death Blow said:


> Looks pretty good. How did you bust up your finger?


 My part-time job is a police officer and 2 weeks ago today I was trying to arrest a drunk female and during the struggle, she hit the end of my finger and broke it.


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## et1673 (Jun 26, 2007)

I did this last night and it turned out great IMO. Here is a picture of it drying I am sure it will look similar once I brush the extra off


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## WiseGuy (Dec 15, 2004)

Great job - Does the flocking come in a variety of colors?


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## et1673 (Jun 26, 2007)

I think it does. The glue was also brown but it too goes in differnet colors. I think I might have about $9.00 into it. As like Firecapt says you will have plenty to do about 7 more whitetails if you just buy the extra molds. and they are about $7.00. I am going to redo one other set of antlers I have. I would suggest putting a coat of glue on let it dry then put a second coat on before flocking.


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## clw74 (Aug 28, 2006)

Thank you for the information. I will have to try this.


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## NYBOWHUNTER.COM (Mar 20, 2008)

I've been doing similar antler mounts for a few years myself. I'm going to try this method (I used brown textured spraypaint instead of the glue and flocking, but I think this idea might be a lot cheaper). I just bought two forms, some hangers, flocking glue and flock - $26 and free shipping from Van *****.

This is what it says (doesn't mention anything about a minimum order):

60 DAYS FREE SHIPPING on all orders shipped in the continental U.S.A., excludes hazardous items and air shipments. Offer expires November 30th, 2008.


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## NYBOWHUNTER.COM (Mar 20, 2008)

What I do, that's a little different is I use brown chalk from a hardware store and put a bead around the base of each antler. Then using my finger I smooth it out with some water. 

You can kind of see what mine looks like here behind the shoulder mounts:


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

I've been gone for a week on a bow hunt back to Ne. and hadn't been able to watch this thread. I'm glad that it helped. Glad to hear about the free shipping, because I need to order 2 elk, 2 antelope and 6 deer forms, not all for me. That would save me on a lot just on shipping 
BTW, we laid 5 deer down in 5 days, i'll start another thread on that trip shortly. 

Great job Eric.


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## QuickReflex (Jul 28, 2008)

Why go through all that when you can just cut the skull cap and dry it out and mount the horns with the deers original hair ?

Not there is any thing wrong with the way being shown Please do not take this wrong. Just that I always wondered why people mount this way vs with the hair of the deer.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

Are you talking about using a piece of the hide to wrap around the skull plate? If so, you'd have to flesh the hide and put a preservetive on it before wrapping it. I guess you could just saw the horns off from behind and cut toward the nose to get the long skull look. I just like the looks of the forms.

I just went back a reread your post. If you're talking about using the hide from the antler area, it won't work. You'll need extra hide and won't have that with the eye area.


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## QuickReflex (Jul 28, 2008)

firecapt186 said:


> Are you talking about using a piece of the hide to wrap around the skull plate? If so, you'd have to flesh the hide and put a preservetive on it before wrapping it. I guess you could just saw the horns off from behind and cut toward the nose to get the long skull look. I just like the looks of the forms.
> 
> I just went back a reread your post. If you're talking about using the hide from the antler area, it won't work. You'll need extra hide and won't have that with the eye area.




It wont work ? I know it works cause thats the way Ive been mounting them for several years now , my dad did this as well. 

Saw the horns just behind the bases down to the eye sockets , pull foward break the bone , & cut the skin . scrpe out the tissue on the skull and wash it out good put it in plastic wrap not to tightly and put it in the freezer for about a month pull it out let it dry out side for about a week and it ready to mount. Ill try to get some pics of one never posted a pic but ill give it a whirl.


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## QuickReflex (Jul 28, 2008)

did it work ?


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## QuickReflex (Jul 28, 2008)

A blind hog a get an acorn every now and then. the 1st pic Ive ever posted cool.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

Does the hide end at the edge of the skull plate or does it wrap around to hide the skull plate? I've seen guys down here cut them off with the hide still attached and just let the hide dry on there just like it is, but when you look from the side you can see the skull plate and under it.
I've seen others use the same forms that I do and wrap a leather chamios around it and that looks pretty cool too. But cost a lot more.


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## QuickReflex (Jul 28, 2008)

firecapt186 said:


> Does the hide end at the edge of the skull plate or does it wrap around to hide the skull plate? I've seen guys down here cut them off with the hide still attached and just let the hide dry on there just like it is, but when you look from the side you can see the skull plate and under it.
> I've seen others use the same forms that I do and wrap a leather chamios around it and that looks pretty cool too. But cost a lot more.



This dont cost nothing but a little time.

I just cut the hide about a 1/4 " longer than the skull then trim it to preferance once dry. you cant really see any of the skull just a little edge at the bottom.


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## QuickReflex (Jul 28, 2008)

ttt


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## Hartley1998 (Nov 14, 2004)

*Antler form?*

What Antler mount forms are you guys ordering from Van *****? The only one I see on there is for the Caribou antlers. It measures 7 1/2 by 12 1/4. Is this the one you guys are ordering?

Thanks


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

I use either #01304884 which is the medium skull form or #01304941 which is the large deer skull. If you have one to do, PM me and i'll help you choose the right form. But most of the deer from up north, after 2 1/2 y/o will take the large. It depends on how wide the skull plate of the deer is as to which one you'll need. They do have the oval forms but, I don't like the way it looks with the antlers on them. I usually get my oval forms from Dan Chase Taxidermy. They're local for me but don't carry the flocking materials nor the skull forms.


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

firecapt186 said:


> I've put this on several other sites to share with those that hadn't ever seen this. I've been doing my own antler mounts for about 10 yrs. It takes about 3 hours, drying time included.
> Items needed, antler mount form, flocking glue and flocking, all can be ordered from Van ***** taxidermy supply. Automotive bondo, 2-3 dry wall screws, coarse sand paper and a drill.


Its not a kit is it?


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

No, thats just a pic of all that it takes to do one. The form, flocking and glue comes from Van ***** Taxidermy Supplies and the Bondo, corse sand paper and putty knife comes from Wally world.


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## Bowjoe1972 (Oct 29, 2008)

Thats Cool .


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## harleyrider (Jul 5, 2006)

Thanks FireCap!:darkbeer::darkbeer: I do all my deer as Euromounts but have several skullcap/antler sets that I have wanted to mount but never liked the cheesy placque/velvet mounting kits that you can buy from Cabelas/BPS etc. I will have to give this method a try.

HR


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## KYBowhunter (Nov 22, 2005)

Has anyone tried the Mountain Mikes Euro kit Cabela's sells? I have a sent of antlers I want to mount but it is just the antlers with no skull plate. I was thinking of trying the Mountain Mikes kit but didn't know how real it looked. 

Can the method in this thread bee done on just antlers for do they need to be attached to the skull plate?


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

They need to be attached to a skull plate. I believe Van ***** has a skull plate for sheds that you might be able to attach them to before using this method. If you're good with carpentry, you may be able to mount them to a block of wood first.


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## Hartley1998 (Nov 14, 2004)

*Thanks*

Thanks for the tip! I just placed my order with VanDykes.
Hope it turns out well as yours.


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## Hartley1998 (Nov 14, 2004)

*Saw?*

What kind of saw do you use to get a good clean cut?

You'll need to cut the horns about 1/4" below and behind the burs of the horns. After that, drill 2-3 holes to allow you to secure the horns with the screws. You can also use the drill with a philips head to do this.















[/QUOTE]


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

It may be hard to see it in this picture, but I use a meat saw. You can use a fine tooth hand saw too. Hack saws are too fine, unless you have a coarse blade. The regular fine tooth hand saw usually will cut a straighter line though.

Hartley, I want to see a picture of it when you're finished. And if you need any help don't hesitate to contact me.


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## OHIOBUCK (Oct 25, 2006)

This is how I do mine..............I screw wood to the back of the horns go get them in an upright position when mounted to the plaque. Then I mix saw dust from the plaque , with plaster of paris and cover the wood and skull plate. Allow to dry for 3 weeks and sand. Apply the same color stain as the plaque and varnish. mount to plaque with 2 screws through the back. I have 4 of them like this so far. I hang my turkey beards off the scrolls.










A little more work , but i like them.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

Those are cool too. I believe that, any type a person does themselves is a personal gratification. No matter how much work goes in to it. Thats a cool plaque too.:thumbs_up


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## WiseGuy (Dec 15, 2004)

Ohiobuck,
so the whole 'head' portion we see is a sawdust/plaster mix that was sanded to that shape and finished? Any 'in the act' photos or close up of them finished? It looks *really* good.


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## Hartley1998 (Nov 14, 2004)

*Thanks*

First, I would like to say thanks for turning me on to something new.
This was a learning experince since this is the first one I did. Never
worked with bondo before man does that set up fast. Anyways as
you will see in the pictures my four year old daughter Aralyn was there
the whole time to help me. She sanded and painted the flock adhesive on.
I think it turned out great. Next time I will know what I am doing. I got 7 more racks to complete now.


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## Hartley1998 (Nov 14, 2004)

*More pics*

More Pics


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## Hartley1998 (Nov 14, 2004)

ttt


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## et1673 (Jun 26, 2007)

I am pretty sure I used the medium mount.


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## BEETLE GUY (Apr 14, 2007)

You could also get some hide from your local taxidermist. Looks good guys


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

et1673 said:


> I am pretty sure I used the medium mount.



From the looks of it Hartley's mount is on a large form.

I don't know, I went back a looked again and the one with him holding it looks like a large, but the pic of it on the table looks like a med. What size was that Mike?

Great job for your first time. You'll get better the more you do.


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## Hartley1998 (Nov 14, 2004)

It was a large.


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## crawdad (Jul 21, 2008)

*Cleaning the skull plate*

Can any of you provide some tips on cleaning the skull plate? I was going to scrape off the hide and meat with a knife, but then what? Boil it? Freeze then let it dry? Bleach it?

Thanks in advance.

BS'er


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

This pic isn't the best illustration. I do mine just like a taxidermist would do it. I start by making a Y cut starting at the top of the neck area and cutting about 2-3". Then branch off toward the horns. Do all the cuts from under the hide, this will save the hair, if you're going to give or sell the cape to a taxidermist. Once I get to the antlers, I use a flat-head screw driver to pry the hide from the base of the horns. Once that is done, continue skinning till you get to the back of the eye sockets. By then you should be able to saw the horns off. Let them dry for a few days to a week and they're ready to mount. 
I also do this all the deer I plan to mount also. It saves space in the freezer. Once the horns are off, it's like a doe head then.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

TTT for the DIYer's that hadn't seen this before.


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

*this is great...*

We took our 3 teenaged kids out elk hunting in Dawson creek over Christmas. Came back with 3 bulls by the kids. A 4x4, 5x6, and 6x6. All want their rack mounted and one has a 4x4 whitetail from earlier this season. I was thinking that would be a lot of $$$ and was serching for a way to do it myself. What a great thread. Will be ordering a few forms to fit the racks and be getting on this one.

Thanks for the posts guys.
Randydb


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

Randy, I have 2 elk to mount for a friend right now, I haven't taken any pic's of the DIY process on the elk. The only difference is, leave the boney part between the shull plate and antlers exposed, you don't have to cover it in bondo. You'll be flocking that part. If you have a question or need me to take some pic's, just let me know.


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

QuickReflex said:


> ...pull foward break the bone , & cut the skin . scrpe out the tissue on the skull and wash it out good put it in plastic wrap not to tightly and put it in the freezer for about a month pull it out let it dry out side for about a week and it ready to mount. Ill try to get some pics of one never posted a pic but ill give it a whirl.


I am thinking of using the fur like quickreflex has done. Just want a bit of clarification here though.

Are you putting the entire skull and fur into a bag in the freezer? Or are you just skinning the skull, cleaning off the skin and putting the skin in the freezer and then reapplying it to the mount later? 

Looking forward to getting going on this with the kids.
Randy


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

*pics would be good.*



firecapt186 said:


> Randy, I have 2 elk to mount for a friend right now, I haven't taken any pic's of the DIY process on the elk. The only difference is, leave the boney part between the shull plate and antlers exposed, you don't have to cover it in bondo. You'll be flocking that part. If you have a question or need me to take some pic's, just let me know.


Hey Firecapt,

I am a bit in the air over whether to do flocking, or cover with fur like quickreflex. I would really like to see a couple pictures of the elk process when you do it.

I am not completely clear on "leave the boney part between the skull plate and antlers exposed." Do you mean I don't need to cover the skull in that area because it is already the right shape? I just fill in where the skull plate meets the form?

Another question, is flocking and flocking glue something you only get from a taxidermist? Or is this something I can get at a craft shop? Just wanting to make sure I only make one order when I get the forms. 

More?????
How many mounts (Elk) can I do with the supplies you show in the first thread here?


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## QuickReflex (Jul 28, 2008)

randydb said:


> I am thinking of using the fur like quickreflex has done. Just want a bit of clarification here though.
> 
> Are you putting the entire skull and fur into a bag in the freezer? Or are you just skinning the skull, cleaning off the skin and putting the skin in the freezer and then reapplying it to the mount later?
> 
> ...



I just saw it off the skull clean it up good wrap a trash bag around the skull portion and throwit in the freezer, the freezer will dry it out kina like freezer burn after a month or so pull it out & let it set for a few days to dry completely & your ready to mount. its really simple just be careful and cut a little xtra hide around the edges to wrap under. good luck wich ever method you choose.


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

QuickReflex said:


> I just saw it off the skull clean it up good wrap a trash bag around the skull portion and throwit in the freezer, the freezer will dry it out kina like freezer burn after a month or so pull it out & let it set for a few days to dry completely & your ready to mount. its really simple just be careful and cut a little xtra hide around the edges to wrap under. good luck wich ever method you choose.



These sets of elk antlers aren't fitting in the freezer. Maybe the 4x4, but the other two are a bit big. I think I will go with the flocking method.

There is a lot of fat/tissue under the hide on the head of the elk too. Very thick skin there too. I would worry that it would rot and smell. 

Thanks there Quickreflex,
Randydb


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## Bubbahoyt (Feb 27, 2004)

Dennis thanks again for all your help. Just finished with the second coat waiting for these to dry then I'm gonna start the other two. Would suggest buying the same color glue as flock. I bought the clear and it took 3 coats to get it where I was happy with the finish.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

:thumbs_up:set1_applaud: They came out great. I've never done one in red, it looks good though.


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## crawdad (Jul 21, 2008)

*Thanks for the tips*

I did mine a little different using a combination of methods from this and other threads. Mine was the oval plywood/Great Stuff/felt version, and I just finished, except for polyurethane on one of the plaques. I only spent about $10-12 total for the two of them, not counting that piece of cypress. Check them out:

To clean the skull plate I cut the hide off and some meat off when it was fresh, soaked in water with detergent a few days, tried to pressure wash, that didn't help much. I simmered it on a slow boil with some baking soda and detergent in water for a couple hours, and that made it very easy to scrape clean.

Thanks for the tips everybody. 

crawdad


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

*one more question*

Hi,
Another question. Can I just cut the extra meat/stuff off the skull and leave it outside to dry for a week, or do I need to boil it and clean everything off? I keep looking at my daughters elk antlers (35" and 37" main beams) and imagining what my wife is going to say when she sees them sticking 3 feet in the air out of a pot on the stove in her kitchen.

I like to think I'm boss, but I'm scared of her at times.
Randydb


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

They way that I usually do mounts that people bring is, they'll usually still have hide on them. If it's dryed, soak them in a bucket of water, just enoungh to cover the skull plate part. I then use a knife and a flathead screwdriver to cut and pry the hide off. 
Once thats done, I hang them in the rafter of my shop for 2-3 days. Won't hurt for it hang longer. They don't have to clean like ero mounts. What meen that you can't get off, will dry. One word of advice, hang them to where a dog can't get to them. It happened to my wife's 22" 5x5 mulie once. Luckily we found them in a neighbors tard.


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## madarchery (May 28, 2003)

Guys remember a little rope around the bases really dresses them up nice.

I am flocking 1 of the 3 i have ready tonight. I usually wrap in leather as I have alot of it. But its very time consuming and I always have that seam to fold and it is never seamless.

So I figured for friends I would try this route. But have found its just as time consuming. Sanding the plaque to a better finish and following directions putting a coat or 2 of latex paint on first as it fills the pores of the forms for better flocking I am told.

Will see the finish tomorrow. Figured I can always leather over if it does not meet my standards. Just worried of the irregularities in the forms that the leather spans and covers. Now every ding, high an low spot and form mis shape will show. I am afraid anyways. Maybe I will be surprised.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

You will be suprised as to how much the glue and flocking will cover. I have, at times, put a coat of glue on and let it dry. Then flock the second coat of glue. As for deformaties, you won't see any unless it's very noticeable before you apply the glue. The surface needs to be some what smooth, but nothing like a car finish, before applying the glue and flocking. As for the ropes, i've only used it on antelopes. Unless you just want a trim around the bases. You can apply flocking all the way up to antler burrs.


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## madarchery (May 28, 2003)

Ialways rope just gives it the completed look.

Oh the forms are sanded smooth. Darn near auto finish. The foam is porus once you remove the mold glaze. So instead of eating expensive glue. I took left over latex paint I had lying around.

When you hold it to the light I can see how the form is out of round with a flat spot here and there. Its blended as its not a gouge or hole but it is deformed a little form the sanding. When I fix it here I make it worse there.

Of course now I know what to do and not do.


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

madarchery said:


> Ialways rope just gives it the completed look.
> 
> Oh the forms are sanded smooth. Darn near auto finish. The foam is porus once you remove the mold glaze. So instead of eating expensive glue. I took left over latex paint I had lying around.
> 
> ...


I am wondering if you sanded more than you needed to. Don't you just need to rough up the surface(mold glaze) and not remove it completely? Rough up a bit makes the glue stick. Looking at the flocking I don't think you need SUPER smooth as the flocking will cover hide a lot.

But what do I know? I am learning like mad here!
randydb


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

You just need to sand enough to get the waxy look off. If you leave any, it will bead like water and oil and not stick very good. When you sand it, it'll leave pores but the glue and flocking will fill back in. I used to try to get an auto finish, that was before I realized just how much the flocking covered. I used to apply Glazing putty to them to get all the sand marks covered, but it's really not necessary. Also, don't use hobby paint instead of the glue. I did once and it pealed off.
As for the glue being expensive, the 4oz. bottle is $5.99 and it's enough to do about 6-8 mounts. I but it by the pt. because I do so many. But even the pt.'s is enough to do about20 mounts. I bought a lb. of flocking 6-7 years ago and have done countless mounts, so for someone doing mounts just for themselves, I recomend buying the smaller amounts of supplies. I consider this being relitively cheap beings I paid a guy $45.00 to do my first for me.


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## madarchery (May 28, 2003)

I got the small of everything. Paid 30 for the kit with the hand sprayer. Says it does 15 sq.Ft. So should be enough for at least 10.

I use the paint as the can said for the first coat as its cheaper then the glue and dries faster.

As far as sanding. I like to get a decent base. I only went to 150 grit so not like glass. The irregularitites and divits in the foam was when I tried to alter the shape etc.

Now I have applied the flock. I waited 24hrs and softly brushed off excess. It turned out pretty good. Looked better with the extra on. As when you clean it up if you look at it under bright light and move it around you can see the glue. I out it on good and heavy and if you look thru a magnifying glass it is a good even velvety finish. Just you can see between fibers.

I know I am a little anal.

All in all it is fine for friends. I myself will stick to the leather.

I will post pics next week of the completed plaques for ya to see.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

There's been several PM me asking about how to remove the hide from the skull plate. I have friend that will always leave the hide on his elk. I prefer waiting till it's like "raw hide" before doing this. I use a flat head screwdriver and hammer. Working up to the bases of the antlers and then around.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

And some have asked how I cut the skull plates to fit the forms.


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## guardianhntr (Sep 15, 2007)

Ok, after I put the flock on and let it dry I brushed it off and a few places the flock did not stick. Should I brush off as much as possible and re glue and flock or what?


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

It sounds like you didn't sand all of the waxy coating off. If you don't get all of it off, the glue won't stick. Sand the spots where it came off, spot flock those areas and then recoat the whole thing again.


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## guardianhntr (Sep 15, 2007)

The glue stuck, I just didnt get any flock on the glue.


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## guardianhntr (Sep 15, 2007)

The glue stuck, I just didnt get any flock on the glue.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

I did a couple more today. I wanted to show the elk mounts, because of the bone below the burr's, you don't have to bondo too far above the skull plates.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

And here's the finished mount's.


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## crawdad (Jul 21, 2008)

Cool.

I have to try that.


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## Hartley1998 (Nov 14, 2004)

Another great job!


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## madarchery (May 28, 2003)

plaques completed. They look better then the pics. I did not have time to mess with lighting and tripods.


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## madarchery (May 28, 2003)

more


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## madarchery (May 28, 2003)

Family photo


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

Mad, I can see why you were so anal about them. Thats some really nice plaques. They came really great :thumbs_up


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## ArchAffliction (Jan 15, 2009)

very nice


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## Strobe (Jan 26, 2009)

Here is my caribou antler mount using this method. Worked like a champ!!!


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## remowilliams (Jan 24, 2009)

Nice work to all on the antler mounts I usually use plaster of Paris and wrap with Leather and use the brass tacks to finish on a stained board. I thought that I would share a couple Turkey fans that I did that turned out OK. The Mirriam I harvested was a bearded hen, no spurs to show off so I included the arrow instead.


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## jmundy (Aug 16, 2004)

Here is one I was working on when I came across this thread. Like one of the previous posters I had some spots that while not bare of flocking, didn't have the coverage I wanted. I did another coat of glue and shot some more flock at him. I'm not a 100% happy with the plaque. It supposed to be an oak color stain. I used 2 coats of it before final finishing. It's just a bit lighter than I would like, but with the brown flocking I didn't want too dark of a background. I guess I can always do another plaque and re-mount the whole thing.


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

*here is my elk mount*

Mounted my daughter's elk rack after reading this thread and another on a taxidermy site.

Basically cut a teardrop shaped piece of 3/4" plywood. Mounted the antlers to it using 4 screws and some clay. Clay was used to hold the angle I wanted the anlters to sit at. Then used some left over concrete plug n patch I had in the garage to form the shape around the skull. Started out planning to use bondo, but I had this concrete patch sitting around for the last 8 years and it was free.

Then I used contact cement to cover it with black felt. Just need to get some black cord to finish the base of the antlers.

randydb


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

I've never used the clay but, bondo sets in about 10 min. My first application of bondo is to hold the angle. When I first started doing these, I used plaster of paris. Over time or the mount got dropped, it would crack. As luck would have it, the guy that i'd done those for was a friend. So, I got all of them back from him and chipped the plaster off and re-did them with bondo.

Those came out looking great Randy :thumbs_up


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

jmundy said:


> Here is one I was working on when I came across this thread. Like one of the previous posters I had some spots that while not bare of flocking, didn't have the coverage I wanted. I did another coat of glue and shot some more flock at him. I'm not a 100% happy with the plaque. It supposed to be an oak color stain. I used 2 coats of it before final finishing. It's just a bit lighter than I would like, but with the brown flocking I didn't want too dark of a background. I guess I can always do another plaque and re-mount the whole thing.



I've found that if I don't sand all the way down to the foam of the form, the glue don't want to soak in to the form and cover evenly. If I leave a spot, it's like an oily film and you're covering with a latex paint, it's wants to separate or something.

It looks great though :thumbs_up.


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

*thought crossed my mind.*



firecapt186 said:


> I've never used the clay but, bondo sets in about 10 min. My first application of bondo is to hold the angle. When I first started doing these, I used plaster of paris. Over time or the mount got dropped, it would crack. As luck would have it, the guy that i'd done those for was a friend. So, I got all of them back from him and chipped the plaster off and re-did them with bondo.
> 
> Those came out looking great Randy :thumbs_up


I actually thought about the brittle aspect of clay/and cement patch. "Hmmmm... how often will this get dropped on the floor? Cement and clay don't handle flexing and dropping very well." 

But I was really turned on by the thought of using stuff I had around the house. I tend to be a saver and my wife is forever telling me to throw stuff out. Using that 1/4 can of concrete patch justifies it sitting on my bench for the last 8 years. Maybe had 80 cents worth in the can! But I saved it and used it! 

Oh well, small moral victories are about all I get around here. She's way ahead of me. Hopefully the kids don't drop the rack any time soon and leave me buying bondo to redo it!

Randydb


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## ozarkmtnhunter (Jul 17, 2005)

This thread is cool! Nice work guys! Ive got about 6 skulls that need cleaned and I just keep putting it off. I might have to try this. 
Do you think a sandblaster would work to sand the form? Ive got a small blast cabinet I use to surface glass for my turkey calls I build.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

ozarkmtnhunter said:


> This thread is cool! Nice work guys! Ive got about 6 skulls that need cleaned and I just keep putting it off. I might have to try this.
> Do you think a sandblaster would work to sand the form? Ive got a small blast cabinet I use to surface glass for my turkey calls I build.



I was thinking the same thing the other day. Not sure what it would do to the form tho. You might can try it in an area, like the top, thats not so noticable first. I haven't been able to find it lately but, at one time I had some 36 grit paper and it took that film off pretty quick and it worked great on the bondo too.


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

*thread to putting on felt method*

Here is the thread I started on a Taxidermy forum that set me up to do my mount with felt cover rather than flocking.

http://www.taxidermy.net/forum/index.php/topic,124645.0.html

I was basically trying to do this in as an affordable way as possible because I have 3 elk racks and a deer rack to do. The elk forms were close to $20 each so I started looking at the possibility of making my own shape and filling it in with bondo rather than buying a form. The responses I got included one on how to cover with felt, which is what I wound up doing.

I agree with Ozark, This thread is cool. Set me on my way to doing this myself and I am very pleased with how the mount turned out. Looks very professional to me. Any time I can do something like this myself it gives an even greater sense of personal touch and accomplishment.

Notice this thread is up over 6 thousand views? Wow.
Randydb


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## BowhunterScooby (May 2, 2006)

I have a couple of deer skulls to do. Found this thread and just ordered the stuff from Van *****. I'll let ya know how it turns out. Thanks for the great thread. :thumbs_up


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

Some have asked about how I get the dried hides off the skull plates. Where's some pic's of how I do mine.

Using a sharp painters scraper and a hammer, if needed, I make a cut from the back of the burr to the back of the skull plate. Then with a bid flat-head screw driver and a hammer, I start working around the base of the antlers.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

As you work around the bases, it hide will seperate from the skull plate in other areas.










Then, to get the white fuzzy part off, most will come off by just pulling with your fingers, some of it you may have to use pliers.


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## FOWLPLAY (Dec 23, 2008)

I just completed my first whitetail mount using this technique. It turned out great. I will post up pics later. Thanks for the info!!


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## team_realtree (Mar 17, 2009)

Looks pretty good i still prefer a skull mount though buts its personal preference obviously


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

Here's an oval mount that I just finished for a friend.










I'd also like to thank all of you for your views of my DIY antler mounting thread. When I first posted it, I never dreamed it would generate over 7000 views. I've gotten quite a lot of PM's and emails on questions about how I do some things, I hope that I've been able to shed some insight.


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## ruttnwapati (Sep 22, 2008)

*1st DIY Antler Mount*

Thought I would try my hand at mounting some antlers. Not talented enough to sculp with bondo. Had to use the leather and tack method.


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## [email protected] (Dec 29, 2006)

firecapt186 said:


> As you work around the bases, it hide will seperate from the skull plate in other areas.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Did you ever try Boiling the skull cap?? Everything comes off so easy.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

I used to soak them in water to try and soften the hide. But, found it's just as easy to do it this way. It takes me about 10 min to do it this way and by the time I boil water and then let the skull plate boil for a while, I can have it off in less time. It's really not that hard to do. 
I have a friend thats brought me 4 antelopes. Those things stink to high heaven. By the time he gets them to me they're pretty rank. And those have horns and not antlers. I have to let them finish drying and then pull the horns off, soak the skull plates in bleach, to kill the smell. Then bondo the horns back on before doing the mounts.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

ruttnwapati said:


> Thought I would try my hand at mounting some antlers. Not talented enough to sculp with bondo. Had to use the leather and tack method.



That really looks good. I've seen some use a leather chamis to cover it. I can assure you, you're talented enough to use the bondo. I use 60 grit sand paper and if I can find it, I'll use 36 grit. It doesn't have to be really smooth, like you want it on a car. Another trick is, sand it as soon as it hardens, it's easier to sand then.


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

*elk smell??*

I have completed my daughter's Elk antlers but there is a definite smell to them. It is a "barn or dried manure smell." At first I thought it was the skull, but that isn't it...yes I have been sniffing. I think the bull must have been rolling in it. It is the antlers for sure. I took some soapy water and a scrub brush and worked them over twice and it improved things a lot. But if I get fairly close there is still a faint scent from them. 

Any suggestions on getting rid of the smell completely? More washing? I thought of taking a rattle can of semi gloss or satin finish varathane and sealing the smell in with that. But there may be better ideas out there.

Randydb


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

Randyb, I've never ran into that problem with antlers. The reason antelope's smell is, their horns are made up of hair. It's a living part of their body. Antlers are, until they dry and the velvet comes off. Was this elk still in velvet? If so, you might could have gone to a mortuary and tried to get some embalming fluid and injected it in the horns, before they dried.
I've done several mounts still in velvet but, never ran across the problem that you're having. Try searching on some of the taxidermy forums to see if someone has did a thread on that problem or maybe you can post it as a thread on a taxi. site.
This is JMO, if you're having to stick your nose close to them to smell them, put them in a room and see if they "smell up" the room. If not, hang them and let it go. The smell will probably go away after a while. The only problem that I could see with sparying a sealer on them is, once it's on and don't get rid of the smell, you've compunded the problem then.


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

I haven't checked this in a while. I was beginning to get too many pages in my photobucket account and had to go in a organize them into different albums. Here's a link to my antler mount process

http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b157/firecapt186/DIY Antler mounts/

I am sorry for not staying on top of this and if it caused any problems for anyone.


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

*Finally done*

Well I finally got my daughter's antlers mounted. I couldn't draw the plaque I wanted free hand...one side would be out of shape from the other. It finally dawned on me that I should draw half, fold it in half and then cut it out. Traced that onto my cheap piece of pine, cut it out, then routed it on my home made router table! A bit of stain and varathane later and I had it done. Screwed it to the mounted antlers and here it is.

I want to say thanks to Firecapt for starting this thread and to the rest of you for chiming in with great tips. I wasn't sure I could do this on my own until I got onto this thread and a second thread on a taxidermy site. This thread had so much info and help and was very inspiring.

Randydb


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## randydb (Jan 25, 2006)

*two more pics...*

And finally a couple pics of my daughter with her antlers and of course with her proud pappa.

Randydb


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