# I'm all out of ideas on how to tune these broadheads. Please assist me!



## ryans127 (Nov 14, 2014)

Hey AT,

Lately I've been trying to tune my broadheads to stack up on top of my FP's. My local "pro-shop" said "Not to worry about it, just adjust your sight for broadheads and then back for FP's." Needless to say, I'm not a fan of this half-*****ed "quick fix" answer. To me, right is right and wrong is wrong.

My equipment:

100 gr. Slick Trick Magnums (1 1/8" cut dia.)
340 spine Gold Tip Hunter Pro (.001, +/- .5 gr)
'14 Hoyt Carbon Spyder 69 lb @ 28"

My broadheads are constantly hitting about 4-5" to the right of my FP's and they were hitting 2" high @ 20 yds. I adjusted my rest vertically LITTLE by LITTLE (according to the Easton Bow Tuning Guide) until they were on the same horizontal plane.

So, my problem is getting them to close that 4-5" left/right gap. I have tried tweaking poundage and moving the rest according to the Easton guide. I have my rest as far out as it can go, and all it does is move both groupings over an equal distance.

This is my first time BH tuning so ANY advice is welcome and appreciated.


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## NYSBowman (Aug 21, 2012)

Paper tune....then walkback tune (using FPs). Once your dialed-in...go ahead with BH tuning.

Make sure BHs spin true before trying to tune them...and be sure that your arrows are properly spined...and that your inserts are square.

If BHs are hitting left(for example)...move rest 1/32nd right, and so on to get them headed in the right direction.
(use the exact same arrow that you shot with a FP...and screw on a BH). 

FPs are more forgiving of bad form(or a bad release)...so make sure you do your best when shooting. Make absolutely sure that you have ZERO vane contact with your rest..


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## Govtrapper (Mar 24, 2012)

What bow ?


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## BowupBuckdown (Jun 10, 2013)

Try one twist in the left yoke (one out of the right). If you have access to a press of course. Since they are on the same horizontal plane, yoke tuning will bring them together


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

IMO, the Easton broadhead guide is backwards for a compound bow and mechanical release. I've written out a bunch of time all the evidence showing that it's really just for finger shooters but I'm not going to get into that right now. 

What I would do if I were you is to put the rest back to 3/4" centershot from the hard riser, not the pad on the shelf. Then add two twists to your left yoke leg and take 2 out of the right yoke leg on your buss cable. Then see what the broadheads are doing.


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## Tracker12 (Sep 22, 2003)

NYSBowman said:


> Paper tune....then walkback tune (using FPs). Once your dialed-in...go ahead with BH tuning.
> 
> Make sure BHs spin true before trying to tune them...and be sure that your arrows are properly spined...and that your inserts are square.
> 
> ...


I would trying this first before I started twisting and strings. I have found that most times the bow is not truly tuned with the FP and well as they should be. Very easy to get good flight with a FP with vanes attached.


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## gofor (Feb 4, 2013)

What rest? With a whisker biscuit, I have always had much better luck moving the rest toward the broadhead, not the opposite usually mentioned. Start at factory center shot and move in very smalll increments. Realize a WB has a rounded bottom, so moving the rest left and right MAY change the high/low as well. Get the L/R first and then readjust the elevation.

Not a pro, just tune my own, but this is what works for me.

Go


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## ryans127 (Nov 14, 2014)

gofor said:


> What rest? With a whisker biscuit, I have always had much better luck moving the rest toward the broadhead, not the opposite usually mentioned. Start at factory center shot and move in very smalll increments. Realize a WB has a rounded bottom, so moving the rest left and right MAY change the high/low as well. Get the L/R first and then readjust the elevation.
> 
> Not a pro, just tune my own, but this is what works for me.
> 
> Go


I am using a QAD HDX rest.


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## ryans127 (Nov 14, 2014)

Govtrapper said:


> What bow ?


'14 Carbon Spyder 30 69# @ 28" draw


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## Govtrapper (Mar 24, 2012)

Have you yoked tuned yet ?


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## ryans127 (Nov 14, 2014)

I did just a little. One twist in the left and one out of the right. Only had a little time at lunch so I will do more later. My question is... wouldn't yoke tuning cause cam lean? Isn't that one of the main things to avoid? Thanks.


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

ryans127 said:


> I did just a little. One twist in the left and one out of the right. Only had a little time at lunch so I will do more later. My question is... wouldn't yoke tuning cause cam lean? Isn't that one of the main things to avoid? Thanks.


Getting rid of all cam lean is not going to make every bow tune best. With yoke tuning, you find the amount of cam lean that makes your bow shoot best. If your bow isn't tuning well now, then obviously something needs to change and yoke tuning is very effective with left/right nock conditions. You have a nock left condition so you shorten the left yoke. Also, a nock left is fixed by moving your rest to the right so that's why I'd move the rest back in to 3/4" centershot.


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## ryans127 (Nov 14, 2014)

Huntinsker said:


> Getting rid of all cam lean is not going to make every bow tune best. With yoke tuning, you find the amount of cam lean that makes your bow shoot best. If your bow isn't tuning well now, then obviously something needs to change and yoke tuning is very effective with left/right nock conditions. You have a nock left condition so you shorten the left yoke. Also, a nock left is fixed by moving your rest to the right so that's why I'd move the rest back in to 3/4" centershot.


Sorry, pretty new to this. I understand the idea of centershot, but what do you mean by 3/4" centershot? And yes I have noticed small improvements in my nock left condition with a bit of yoke tuning.

Also, does it matter much if I put a twist in the left or take one out of the right? Will I yield the same result?


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

ryans127 said:


> Sorry, pretty new to this. I understand the idea of centershot, but what do you mean by 3/4" centershot? And yes I have noticed small improvements in my nock left condition with a bit of yoke tuning.
> 
> Also, does it matter much if I put a twist in the left or take one out of the right? Will I yield the same result?


3/4" centershot is where you put an arrow on your rest and measure to the center of your arrow to the hard riser. That measurement should be 3/4". Twisting one twist into the left will do the same as one out of the right but if you do them both, it will preserve your cam timing.


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## mightymite04 (Jan 14, 2015)

one thing i do when tuning fixed blade broadheads is if i am getting good tear in paper but broadheads shoot left of right. there are 2 options if broadheads hit left of where field point are with a bow that is paper tuned lengthen d loop or lenghten release strap (if you use one with strap) broadheads hitting right shorten d loop or shorten release strap. this is assuming you primary draw length is correct, i happened to stumble on to this method by accident a while ago,point of impact wont change with field point but your fixed blades will.alot of guys will get bullet holes with paper and then shoot a fixed blade and start moving rest and yoke tuning,but in reality your secondary draw lenght isnt set correctly.(release elbow pointing in or out).your killing 2 birds with 1 stone,if your bow is getting bullet holes with your secondary dl not set correctly then you play with d loop length or release strap length to get fixed blades hitting same impact point your torque tuning your bow. very quick and very easy. on side not my preference is to change loop size instead of playing with length of strap much but for quick adjustment to see what needs to happen playing with strap will let you no what going on instead of readjusting loop size over and over again.


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## ZombieHead77 (Mar 20, 2016)

Not many people know and they make things more difficult but all you need to do is even the glue in your insert in the shaft to try to get the glue evenly around inside the shaft also make sure your blades are in line with vanes.


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## TRUE HUNT (Nov 8, 2006)

Take a step back and tune your arrows then tune the bow. Do yourself a favor and go to gold tip site and check out the videos on arrow building. Theirs a lot that comes into play for a well tuned arrow as well as a well tuned bow. GOOD LUCK


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## garrickt (Mar 30, 2008)

TRUE HUNT said:


> Take a step back and tune your arrows then tune the bow. Do yourself a favor and go to gold tip site and check out the videos on arrow building. Theirs a lot that comes into play for a well tuned arrow as well as a well tuned bow. GOOD LUCK


^^^^^This.
Most people spend waaaaay too much time on the bow and get stuck scratching their head when their set up won't tune. Arrows are so much more important than people realize. It's amazing what a little nock tuning can do, and no you do not need a shooting machine to do it.


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## garrickt (Mar 30, 2008)

ZombieHead77 said:


> Not many people know and they make things more difficult but all you need to do is even the glue in your insert in the shaft to try to get the glue evenly around inside the shaft also make sure your blades are in line with vanes.


What if you are shooting a four blade with only 3 vanes? Or a 3 blade head with a 4 fletch? How do you line them up? Your blades do not need to line up with your vanes, another AT urban legend and if your glue is coming into play do yourself a favor and stop building your own arrows.


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