# Arrows shooting to left?!?!?? (Pic)



## GregBS (Oct 30, 2010)

Weak spine reaction most of the time.

What is your arrow setup?


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## lowboy (Mar 1, 2004)

whats you set up? arrow length and spine tip weight.


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## big B ohio (Dec 15, 2006)

Either weak spine or your follow thru.


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## kjwhfsd (Sep 10, 2005)

LMAO. A new recurve shooter and you have figured its his equipment. 
Does it go farther left the farther you shoot. I would bet your anchor is a little far right.


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## Andrew.C (Oct 6, 2011)

kjwhfsd said:


> LMAO. A new recurve shooter and you have figured its his equipment.
> Does it go farther left the farther you shoot. I would bet your anchor is a little far right.


Like kjwhfsd said, its most likely a form issue right now. Plucking on the release?


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## RuffTuffGuy (Apr 19, 2012)

Ok my draw is 26 1/2, arrows set up at 27 1/2 with a 100 grain field tip, spine .600, I draw to the corner of my lip, and I'm pretty smooth to the release. Like I said when I aim and shoot they basically group really well, everything just flies to the left. 

I'm not sure if this means anything, but I also have a pretty crappy arrow rest on there made by Allen. I need something more reliable.


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## RuffTuffGuy (Apr 19, 2012)

kjwhfsd said:


> LMAO. A new recurve shooter and you have figured its his equipment.
> Does it go farther left the farther you shoot. I would bet your anchor is a little far right.


Yea actually the farther back I go, the more to the left it goes. Almost by the neck. Haha.


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## Andrew.C (Oct 6, 2011)

RuffTuffGuy said:


> Ok my draw is 26 1/2, arrows set up at 27 1/2 with a 100 grain field tip, spine .600, I draw to the corner of my lip, and I'm pretty smooth to the release. Like I said when I aim and shoot they basically group really well, everything just flies to the left.
> 
> I'm not sure if this means anything, but I also have a pretty crappy arrow rest on there made by Allen. I need something more reliable.


If they all group well and the group is just a bit left, why don't you just aim farther right?

If its most in the center with left misses, then it could be a number of issues. If you wanna look at equipment issues, try checking for contact.

Also you say youre a newbie archer. Shooting a 50# recurve is pretty high to start. Being overbowed causes a boatload of issues.


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## RuffTuffGuy (Apr 19, 2012)

Andrew.C said:


> If they all group well and the group is just a bit left, why don't you just aim farther right?
> 
> If its most in the center with left misses, then it could be a number of issues. If you wanna look at equipment issues, try checking for contact.
> 
> Also you say youre a newbie archer. Shooting a 50# recurve is pretty high to start. Being overbowed causes a boatload of issues.


Yea haha I thought of aiming more to the right. I did, it didn't feel right. I felt like I was aiming at the ass. Haha. After looking at my bow, I think my arrow rest is cocked. I'm not exactly a newbie, but I've been shooting for a year. I don't feel overbowed, I can pull the string back to my lip without quivering for a good 5 seconds or so. I don't know, I might join an archery club or something, I could use some person on person help.


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## hendo (Apr 8, 2013)

are you a finger shooter or using release aid


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## dwagaman (Nov 7, 2010)

kjwhfsd said:


> LMAO.* A new recurve shooter and you have figured its his equipment*.
> Does it go farther left the farther you shoot. I would bet your anchor is a little far right.


Lol ...........................


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## RuffTuffGuy (Apr 19, 2012)

hendo said:


> are you a finger shooter or using release aid


I'm using a finger tab.


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## Kstigall (Feb 24, 2004)

I shoot compound with a release aid. For me it is most frequently in my grip and follow through. But my "problem" is a bit different. Indoor spot shooting, I will or did shoot 5 - 10 inside/out X's and then shoot 1" groups just on the edge of the X. Of course in 3D the shots would be slightly more left depending on the distance of the target. Soooooooo, after trying to figure it out for some time I realized that it was most likely that I was building tension on my grip hand the longer I shot. Then after shooting a LOT I would go back to pounding the X. I have been focusing on my grip location, hand/wrist alignment AND grip pressure points AND follow through. 

My "issue" was shots hitting an inch or 2 left at say 35 - 40 yards. Occasionally it was worse. Work on shoulder-elbow-wrist-hand to bow grip alignment AND muscle tension in all AND a clean straight follow through. 

Of course, "plucking" the string by a right handed archer will cause "hitting left" issues. 
If my right scapula is sticking out more than "normal" at anchor my draw hand is more likely to go "out" rather than straight back. If I make sure to keep my right scapula from flaring out my draw hand is much more likely to come straight back. Stand tall and square, don't let your right shoulder roll forward.


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## kjwhfsd (Sep 10, 2005)

RuffTuffGuy said:


> Yea haha I thought of aiming more to the right. I did, it didn't feel right. I felt like I was aiming at the ass. Haha. After looking at my bow, I think my arrow rest is cocked. I'm not exactly a newbie, but I've been shooting for a year. I don't feel overbowed, I can pull the string back to my lip without quivering for a good 5 seconds or so. I don't know, I might join an archery club or something, I could use some person on person help.


A year trying to figure it out your self. Your still a newbie. Yes you figured out the best answer get a coach to help you person to person. Then your issue will be solved rather quickly.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

RuffTuffGuy said:


> Ok, I shoot Barebow, I'm a pretty newbie archer and my shots are consistently to the left. I get good groups, but to the left of the target! What gives??? Is it my arrows? Arrow rest? Shooting... Martin Jaguar Recurve 50#




20 yards.

Fire 3 fletched arrows.
Fire 2 bareshafts.

Take a photo.

If your bareshafts are missing LEFT of the fletched arrows...
*IF YOU ARE RIGHT HANDED.....shooting a RECURVE BOW...*

your arrows are shooting STIFF,
so you need HEAVIER screw in field points on your arrows.

If your bareshafts are missing RIGHT of the fletched arrows...
*IF YOU ARE RIGHT HANDED.....shooting a RECURVE BOW...*

your arrows are shooting WEAK,
so you need LIGHTER screw in field points on your arrows.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

RuffTuffGuy said:


> Yea haha I thought of aiming more to the right. I did, it didn't feel right. I felt like I was aiming at the ass. Haha. After looking at my bow, I think my arrow rest is cocked. I'm not exactly a newbie, but I've been shooting for a year. I don't feel overbowed, I can pull the string back to my lip without quivering for a good 5 seconds or so. I don't know, I might join an archery club or something, I could use some person on person help.


You need to be able to hold at full draw,
with your RECURVE bow,
a minimum of 30-SECONDS...to see if you are over-bowed or not.


If you can ONLY hold at full draw for 5 seconds,
with NO INTENTION of shooting,
and then you start shaking at 6 seconds,
you are OVER-BOWED with your RECURVE bow
and struggling with control.

So,
time to start EXERCISING BOTH SIDES,
left and right.

GRAB onto the string with ALL your fingers,
and get to your RECURVE anchor point,
at full draw,
and hold for as LONG as you can,
with the goal of reaching 30 seconds.

Then,
let down.

Then repeat for as long as you can,
then, let down.

REPEAT this HOLDING at full draw,
holding at your RECURVE anchor point for say 30 repetitions,
on ONE SIDE.

Take a breather.

Now,
so this for your other side.

If you NORMALLY shoot RIGHT handed,
now,
grab the bowstring with your LEFT hand
and get to your RECURVE ANCHOR and hold for as LONG as you can.

Repeat 30 times.

You will build your STAMINA over the next 30 days,
and after 60 days of EXERCISING both sides...

your control will be much better.


Do the bareshaft test,
and figure out if you need to INCREASE or DECREASE
your field point weight.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

kjwhfsd said:


> A year trying to figure it out your self. Your still a newbie. Yes you figured out the best answer get a coach to help you person to person. Then your issue will be solved rather quickly.


Yup.
A level 3 community coach would fix you right up,
rather quickly.

:wink:


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## Windrover (Jan 6, 2012)

Your instincts are right. A traditional barebow shooter wants the arrow to go "where you are looking". Do not accept anything less. Follow nuts&bolts advise. There are many ways to adjust the stiff/weak reaction but first you need to know where you are and the bareshaft is the quick and easy way to know.


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## RuffTuffGuy (Apr 19, 2012)

kjwhfsd said:


> A year trying to figure it out your self. Your still a newbie. Yes you figured out the best answer get a coach to help you person to person. Then your issue will be solved rather quickly.


Hahaha yea. It's at the top of the list right now. Well that and new arrows!


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## me.hunter (Mar 6, 2005)

Low left....grip. Mel


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## RuffTuffGuy (Apr 19, 2012)

nuts&bolts said:


> 20 yards.
> 
> Fire 3 fletched arrows.
> Fire 2 bareshafts.
> ...


Hey thanks a lot for all the information, I really appreciate it. I especially like the part out about the endurance pulling the string back. It seems this may be the best deal for me to do. I don't have bare shaft arrows at the moment, so I'll just have to work on my stamina. Yea I definitely can not hold the string back for 30 seconds. Maybe 10 seconds max.


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## RuffTuffGuy (Apr 19, 2012)

Windrover said:


> Your instincts are right. A traditional barebow shooter wants the arrow to go "where you are looking". Do not accept anything less. Follow nuts&bolts advise. There are many ways to adjust the stiff/weak reaction but first you need to know where you are and the bareshaft is the quick and easy way to know.


Yea I need to get some bare shafts first.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

RuffTuffGuy said:


> Hey thanks a lot for all the information, I really appreciate it. I especially like the part out about the endurance pulling the string back. It seems this may be the best deal for me to do. I don't have bare shaft arrows at the moment, so I'll just have to work on my stamina. Yea I definitely can not hold the string back for 30 seconds. Maybe 10 seconds max.


Ok.

Work on getting to 15 seconds MAX.

Spend some weeks, working both sides of your body.
When 15 seconds MAX is comfy, and no longer a strain...

then,
build up to 20 seconds MAX. Spend 2-3 weeks getting comfy with 20 seconds, holding at full draw,
at your RECURVE anchor, with no shakes.

When 20 seconds is EASY, at full draw with your HEAVY RECURVE...

then,
build up to 25 seconds MAX.

Then, build up to 30 seconds MAX.

Then,
build up to 45 seconds MAX.

The goal is to build up your MAX HOLD at full draw, to say 45 seconds,
so that you are still under control at 30 seconds,
where 30 seconds is COMFY, at full draw,
with your RECURVE bow.

When you can hold at 30 seconds NICE and COMFY, at FULL CONTROL, with NO SHAKES..

then,
you will be under FULL control
when you release your arrow,
3-5 seconds AFTER you first hit full draw.

You are WAY WAY WAY over-bowed.


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## hendo (Apr 8, 2013)

> I'm using a finger tab.


try using a release aid if this fixes the problem then it is your technique on release you may be twisting the string


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## RuffTuffGuy (Apr 19, 2012)

hendo said:


> try using a release aid if this fixes the problem then it is your technique on release you may be twisting the string


I'll try this too. I have an extra release I haven't used.


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## hendo (Apr 8, 2013)

let us know how you go


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## kjwhfsd (Sep 10, 2005)

hendo said:


> try using a release aid if this fixes the problem then it is your technique on release you may be twisting the string


Really you advice is to put a release on a recurve. Not really that good of advice. See there is this thing called the archers paradox. With a recurve the shaft has to bend horizontal to clear the riser. With fingers releasing that is what it does. With a release the arrow bends vertical. That will not get you clearance from the riser. Can you shoot a recurve with a release yes how ever there are adjustments that have to be done. It is really rather technical to get the bow tuned to shoot that way.


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## RuffTuffGuy (Apr 19, 2012)

kjwhfsd said:


> Really you advice is to put a release on a recurve. Not really that good of advice. See there is this thing called the archers paradox. With a recurve the shaft has to bend horizontal to clear the riser. With fingers releasing that is what it does. With a release the arrow bends vertical. That will not get you clearance from the riser. Can you shoot a recurve with a release yes how ever there are adjustments that have to be done. It is really rather technical to get the bow tuned to shoot that way.


And this makes perfect sense too, I read about this. It's hard for me because every advice I get is a different angle. Should I just try them all?!


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## mez (Feb 22, 2010)

Cross eye dominance will cause this as well. Shoot right handed with a left dominant eye and both eyes open you will pretty much miss left all the time.


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## RuffTuffGuy (Apr 19, 2012)

mez said:


> Cross eye dominance will cause this as well. Shoot right handed with a left dominant eye and both eyes open you will pretty much miss left all the time.


I'm right eye dominant, I've read that also about what you are saying.


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## kjwhfsd (Sep 10, 2005)

RuffTuffGuy said:


> And this makes perfect sense too, I read about this. It's hard for me because every advice I get is a different angle. Should I just try them all?!


In a word NO. There is a lot of just throwing things out there because that is what they heard somewhere. Its unlikely that most of the advice just thrown out on this thread actually has much to do with your problem.


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