# Bow poundage for outdoor target



## projayjay (Jan 1, 2014)

Depends on many factors;

Arrows, draw length, etc.


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## indebtmd (Dec 21, 2013)

I forget which Korean archer it was but she demonstrated that you do not need exceptionally high poundage to go the distance. I believe she was using either 26 or 28lb limbs and still able to hit 70m without difficulties. I'm sure someone will jump in with the archer and exact poundage.


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## BenConnor (Feb 15, 2013)

indebtmd said:


> I forget which Korean archer it was but she demonstrated that you do not need exceptionally high poundage to go the distance. I believe she was using either 26 or 28lb limbs and still able to hit 70m without difficulties. I'm sure someone will jump in with the archer and exact poundage.


I'm not korean or female but I did shoot 70m quite successfully with 26# OTF and ACEs. Sight all the way in and all the way down but aiming on the gold.


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## TER (Jul 5, 2003)

American archer Denise Parker used a draw weight of 28 lbs at age 14 to win an Olympic bronze medal in the team event at the 1988 Olympics.


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## c365 (May 15, 2013)

Elrose said:


> Hello!
> 
> I'm going to change my limbs from 22lbs to 28lbs, I've been shooting only 18 m. As I plan to move forward, I have a question: what minimum bow poundage is good for outdoor, I mean, 50 and 70m?
> 
> ...


So what kind of equipment are you using?? you young? old?, please give a more complete picture. How many ends do you shoot at 22#? only because a 6# jump is a LOT, but depends on other factors you need to provide.

I think there's a sticky by dchan you might want to look at.


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## Elrose (Feb 20, 2014)

Thank you all for your answers! I couldn't even imagine that such a low poundage was used to win an Olympic medal. 
I'm 19 years old girl, shooting Hoyt formula excel 22# for 3 months. This poundage seems to be very light for me now, so I want to switch to Hoyt Formula 720 28# (I've tried my friend's 30# recurve and it was okay). All these 3 month I was shooting 18m indoor, so now I want to try myself at 50/70m, but i had a doubt whether 28# allows me to do this or not. Also, I'm going to use the Easton Carbon one 730.


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## anmactire (Sep 4, 2012)

My girlfriend gets her 1516 arrows out to 50m with 20lbs on her fingers at a 24.5 in draw length. Jumping to 28# from 22# is a mistake in my books. Too large a jump.


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## Elrose (Feb 20, 2014)

When i just got 22# it was light for me too, i chose it cause I wanted to concentrate on my techique.


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## midwayarcherywi (Sep 24, 2006)

Perhaps step outside with what you are currently shooting and shoot 25m or 30m on a 122cm face. Get a feel for all the variables when shooting outside. Move back a few steps at a time. You can then make an informed decision about what your current kit is able to produce. You will then have a better idea of what to buy next. 
If you have not yet shot with a clicker, do so with the lighter poundage and do not make a 6lb or an 8lb jump in weight. 4lb movements are the max IMO.


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## Jim18655 (Sep 17, 2011)

Lots of shooters get hung up on "how much draw weight do I need for..." The weight you need is what you can shoot comfortably and accurately for whatever event you are shooting. A coach I once had was always disappointed when archers met well known Olympic archers and the first question was almost always "How many pounds do you shoot?" or "What equipment is better?" Probably should be asking "How do you prepare mentally for a tournament?"


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## StarDog (Feb 17, 2007)

I am sneaking up on longer distances, 21# otf with 25# amo limbs (SF 24# axiom plus) and 1616's cut to 27".DL is 25" and I am shooting barebow (string walking) By that I mean I get good groups at 20 yards, then move to 30 and if that groups well, I move to 40. If that falls apart, I step back to 30 or 20. I have not tried 50 yet and won 't til I get 40 nailed because frankly I don't like chasing arrows. Rather than start acquiring heavier limbs etc, I thought I would see what my current set up does for me. It's just a thought.


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## Elrose (Feb 20, 2014)

You are right! I'll better take my time, increase the draw weight to 24# on my limbs and continue working on my technique, including shooting with a clicker.


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## c365 (May 15, 2013)

Elrose said:


> You are right! I'll better take my time, increase the draw weight to 24# on my limbs and continue working on my technique, including shooting with a clicker.


Yep, as mentioned, walking back is a very interesting thing to do, it'll give you a real world idea of just what your setup will do. When you reach a certain distance back, you'll be amazed how short the arrow drops below the target.


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## Cephas (Sep 7, 2010)

The daughter has done very well at 60 and 70 m with 26 and 28# otf. Sight was less than half way in and an inch from the bottom at 28# using CX sst's at 260 grains.


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## Cephas (Sep 7, 2010)

It is amazing what affect good form can have even with low poundage. When Meghan was competing in Nimes some of the international coaches couldn't believe she was using 24# otf.


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## calbowdude (Feb 13, 2005)

The advice on form work and incremental poundage changes is very good. 

Could you list your draw length? I am thinking that 730 carbon 1's are still too stiff even at 28#, unless you're planning to shoot a very long arrow and an extended clicker. That long arrow will add weight and reduce your maximum achievable distance. 

My girlfriend has slightly longer than 24" draw length, and holding ~24 pounds on basic non-carbon limbs, using slightly over long Carbon Express Medallion XR arrows in 1000 spine. She is able to hit 60 meters with the sight pulled all the way in, and with good clearance between the sight pin and arrow. 

Nicer limbs and a couple of pounds added to the draw weight should make 70 meters doable.

Hope this helps!



Elrose said:


> Thank you all for your answers! I couldn't even imo agine that such a low poundage was used to win an Olympic medal.
> I'm 19 years old girl, shooting Hoyt formula excel 22# for 3 months. This poundage seems to be very light for me now, so I want to switch to Hoyt Formula 720 28# (I've tried my friend's 30# recurve and it was okay). All these 3 month I was shooting 18m indoor, so now I want to try myself at 50/70m, but i had a doubt whether 28# allows me to do this or not. Also, I'm going to use the Easton Carbon one 730.


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## Elrose (Feb 20, 2014)

Cephas,
I'm glad to hear it! Won't worry about low draw weight anymore. 

Calbowdude,
Thank you! My draw length is 27.5". 730 spine was advised on the Easton site for 28#, but as I decided to switch to 24#, i need 900, I think.


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## calbowdude (Feb 13, 2005)

With that draw length, 730 isn't as far off as I thought, but yes, 800 or 900 spine arrows are closer to what you need. 

A thought to consider: you could conceivably get a spine a bit stiffer than you need, and don't cut it all the way down to match your draw length. When you get heavier limbs, then cut them down and they may actually still work. It's not ideal, but a good way to avoid buying new arrows when you get new limbs. 

Shoot lots, and enjoy the process!


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## dmassphoto (Feb 8, 2010)

I have the same draw length as you, and I was shooting 810s at 34#. 900 may work with 28#, but you'll definitely have to go lower for 24#.


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## lksseven (Mar 21, 2010)

midwayarcherywi said:


> Perhaps step outside with what you are currently shooting and shoot 25m or 30m on a 122cm face. Get a feel for all the variables when shooting outside. Move back a few steps at a time. You can then make an informed decision about what your current kit is able to produce. You will then have a better idea of what to buy next.
> If you have not yet shot with a clicker, do so with the lighter poundage and do not make a 6lb or an 8lb jump in weight. 4lb movements are the max IMO.


+1. This is great advice.


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## Elrose (Feb 20, 2014)

Could you please help me, what spine and arrow length should i choose, having 27,5" draw length, 24# limbs, Easton C1 break-off points and Easton pin nocks (For Easton Carbon one arrows). I'm going to use a Beiter clicker


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

How did you measure your DL?

Do you know the poundage on your fingers (OTF) and was it measured or calculated.

My "stuck thread" is in my Signature eluded to by c365

IF that is true AMO Draw length, you can probably shoot as short as a 26.25" arrow comfortably. If you are using a blade clicker, like the Beiter, we would need to know which riser since some have extension plates some do not, (to determine the longest arrow you can shoot) 

Without this information, it would only be a very ROUGH uneducated GUESS. (garbage in garbage out)

Also knowing the rest of your rig setup, would help get any educated guesses closer since stabilizer, rest, plunger, string type, nock locator type, tab, sight, etc all change the way a bow shoots and the dynamic spine of the arrow. Seeing video and a photo of you shooting would also be helpful (particularly your release) 

Since you have been shooting some, how are your arrows flying now and which arrows and how long are they? Have you even tried a bareshaft test with your current arrows?
What are your current arrows, exact length(shaft only) and spine. How are they setup? Feathers (size) or vanes (size). Nock type, MFG and Model) Point type and weight?


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## Elrose (Feb 20, 2014)

dchan,

thank you for your reply!
I used an Easton measuring arrow, the length was measured by the end of a Beiter clicker plate. My riser is Hoyt formula excel pro. 
As for the setup, i'm using the SF axiom stabilizer, which will be replaced by the Doinker avancee/estremo soon; Spigarelli rest, Shibuya plunger and Shibuya RC sight; KSl gold tab; fast flight string, 16 strand. Unfortunately, i don't have any video or photo of me shooting by now
My current arrows are the Easton Jazz 1616, approximately ~26,7" (shaft only), i tried to use them with a clicker and they are definitely very long. I can't provide more information (point/vanes), cause these arrows were given to me after measuring my draw length in the local archery store, so i don't know the details. To be said, i am not very happy with this setup, feels like an arrow doesn't fly straight, may be because I didn't do a bareshaft test firstly to set a plunger correctly.


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## Elrose (Feb 20, 2014)

And, btw, calbowdude, dmassphoto, iksseven - thank you!


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## hatchettjack (Jan 16, 2012)

Katniss shoots 40 lbs 💪 just saying! 😝


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## Black46 (Oct 16, 2013)

Elrose,

I have very similar specs as you. My not very accurate fish scale says 23lbs OTF (limb bolt out 2.5 turns) and my AMO DL is just over 28". I'm shooting Carbon One 1000s at about 27.5" from nock groove to end of the carbon. These arrows fly well, but still bare shaft a little stiff. They got a good test at my first tournament a couple weeks ago. The first distance was 60m, with gusty wind and rain and the arrows weren't affected much at all. At 60m I have the sight all the way out with a little adjustment left at the bottom. I tried 70m last night just for fun and I used my 60m sight mark,but moved it all the way in and it was pretty close.

I would suggest one of the AAE extended clickers. They will give you much more flexibility as you progress.


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## Mulcade (Aug 31, 2007)

Don't worry about the plunger tension. Set it to the mid range and forget about it. The plunger is for fine tuning after you have the rest of the tune in good shape. Having said that, do worry about your center shot with the plunger. :grin:


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

If you are shooting a 26.7" arrow, It will spine stiffer than a 28" arrow. If you were able to see a lot of waving of the tail of your arrow from 18M (20Y) than I would have to say your arrows are acting more than a little stiff.

Don't forget that if you are shooting 22lb limbs and only drawing to 27" then your DW will most likely be lower than the rating on the limbs. (depending on how you have the limb bolts set)
22lbs on the fingers shooting 28" arrows, you will probably be looking at 1000-1200 spine. If you are going up to 24lb OTF, then maybe 900-1000 spine but again it's only a ball park guess.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

hatchettjack said:


> Katniss shoots 40 lbs &#55357;&#56490; just saying! &#55357;&#56861;


and what relevance does that have for a beginner/intermediate shooter that is trying to learn proper form?


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## Elrose (Feb 20, 2014)

Black46, dchan,
Thank you! I guess, I need 1000 spine for 24#. But can i use 900 spine, if i get heavier points? I measured my draw length once more, seems like 26.25" is exactly what I need for a clicker.

Mulcade,
Thank you! I remember about center shot


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## Elrose (Feb 20, 2014)

hatchettjack said:


> Katniss shoots 40 lbs &#55357;&#56490; just saying! &#55357;&#56861;


I will shoot 40# one day too


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

While we are not able to look at your DL measurement, and you still have not clarified exactly how you measured your DL and if it's AMO, therefore it's hard to give good info..

BUT 

If your clicker length seems to work at 26.25" and your clicker is set at about half way between the plunger and end of the clicker plate, then your AMO DL is somewhere close to 27".

If that is the case, you need to be aware that with 24# limbs set at about the middle of the limb bolt travel, you are probably pulling around 22# OTF (1" shorter than the rated x lbs at 28")

Spine will need to be in the 1200-1400 range for a 26.25" arrow assuming stock points. Get the points up to 125gn and you may get away with stiffer spines or go with longer arrows and an extended clicker.

ALL THAT BEING SAID,

Running stiffer arrows mayl be more forgiving and it sounds like you may not be consistent enough to really need to worry about it. 1000 spine may work well.


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## Azzurri (Mar 10, 2014)

I'm just barely into year 2 and I started out indoor also through about March. When I started throwing in some outdoor sessions I got out to probably 60m using aluminum PPs with feathers shooting 20#. It's right before that 70m mark that the arrows started dropping short. I bought some carbon arrows suggested here and some 4#+ limbs and could get 70m. However I've actually reverted back to the lower limbs (with the bolts turned to up the weight since I was getting where 20# was easy) and shorter distances with an eye towards better form and accuracy. I've been getting a lot out of pushing in the direction of 900 rounds (did my first a couple weeks ago) for now because the jump to 70m is way too big for newbies with low draw weights. It's neat to reach that far but realistically there is more value right now in 30-60. I don't discourage the enthusiasm of wanting to shoot far but if you want to be actually accurate and competitive when you get to 70m there is no short cut around being accurate at the increments up to 70m because every little glitch will start showing.


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## Azzurri (Mar 10, 2014)

Added thought: I think the friendliest targets for newbies to shoot on are the "easels." The metal and wood framed targets I shoot on are unforgiving arrow destroyers. I did a 900 on an "easel" recently and "score vs. M" is much cheaper than frame-induced destruction. I only had one M anyway, but the type of target I think shows up in the toll.


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## Elrose (Feb 20, 2014)

dchan,
Thank you! I got 1020 spine Easton acc, 100gr points and Easton G large pin nocks. The length i decided to leave uncutted, till i go to my local coach to measure the draw length carefully once again.

Azzurri,
Thank you! You're right. I'm a little bit in a hurry, like every newbie who started to shoot, i guess. I'm just afraid of staying in the 22#-30# range for a very long time, and this is my mistake. I'll try to keep calm and shoot better at 18m.


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## c365 (May 15, 2013)

Elrose, IMO, as mentioned before it's a mistake to seek longer distances before your form, your technique is fully developed. Trying to do 70m, let alone 80-90m regardless of bow weight will be a exercise in frustration, it's no fun and not economically wise either to have shots all over the bale and some complete misses and loss of arrows.

It takes a good while and a whole lot of *meaningful* regular practice to develop good form, at the range and at home, afterall, your training that stubborn body to do something new. When your form is solidifying, you will know it, each shot feels the same and comfortable, you also look good. The results at the target will show marked improvement, less and less wild flyers.


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## Elrose (Feb 20, 2014)

c365,
Oh, now I see. I will develop my technique till every shot feels the same. The key word is "meaningful" practice, so i'll try to shoot with a coach more often. Thank you!


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## syme71 (Apr 12, 2013)

My daughter shoots a 68" bow, 18# limbs, ~24" draw, 27" xx75 1416 arrows. Was barely making 50m. We're hoping going to lighter arrows will do the trick.


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## midwayarcherywi (Sep 24, 2006)

syme71 said:


> My daughter shoots a 68" bow, 18# limbs, ~24" draw, 27" xx75 1416 arrows. Was barely making 50m. We're hoping going to lighter arrows will do the trick.


Your arrows are 7.2gpi which is light. Going to a McK Junior arrow will get you to 5gpi, which is lighter and you'll gain some advantage. The real solution is going to be your daughter growing and getting a bit stronger.


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## HikerDave (Jan 1, 2011)

Elrose said:


> dchan,
> Thank you! I got 1020 spine Easton acc, 100gr points and Easton G large pin nocks. The length i decided to leave uncutted, till i go to my local coach to measure the draw length carefully once again.
> 
> Azzurri,
> Thank you! You're right. I'm a little bit in a hurry, like every newbie who started to shoot, i guess. I'm just afraid of staying in the 22#-30# range for a very long time, and this is my mistake. I'll try to keep calm and shoot better at 18m.


When you go up to 28-30 pounds you should get lighter arrows, like McKinney IIs or Medallion Pro. Then 70 meters will be no problem for you except on windy days when higher poundage and heavy skinny arrows such as X10 or Carbon One Nano Pro develop an advantage for those who have them.


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## c365 (May 15, 2013)

Instead of trying to prioritize getting a arrow out to the longer distances, the more important question rather than getting super light (and expensive) arrows and maximizing draw weight, is how is the form of the person in question. To do well at the longer distances, (so you don't lose/damage expensive arrows for one) the form has to be "spot on" as they say. You develop great form at much closer distances. 70-90m is a quest only after there's that word again...form is developed.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

syme71 said:


> My daughter shoots a 68" bow, 18# limbs, ~24" draw, 27" xx75 1416 arrows. Was barely making 50m. We're hoping going to lighter arrows will do the trick.


Carbon Impact Super Club 5/15 is 4.4gpi, which would drop almost 60gr off the arrows. They are cheap and come ready to go.

In my mind there is no reason to go with heavy aluminum arrows for new archers these days.

-Grant


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## c365 (May 15, 2013)

Just want to encourage those shooting low poundage. I did a good test today, using 24# wood glass SF Axiom Plus OTF=24# and Beman Carbon Flash 1000 arrows, 5.4 gpi. Was able to just squeak out 80m with center of aperture 3/4" above arrow and sight extension one more hole to go until fully back on 9" sight bar. 70m no problem whatsoever, aperture 1-1/4" above arrow and sight extension almost full out.


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## Elrose (Feb 20, 2014)

c365 said:


> Just want to encourage those shooting low poundage. I did a good test today, using 24# wood glass SF Axiom Plus OTF=24# and Beman Carbon Flash 1000 arrows, 5.4 gpi. Was able to just squeak out 80m with center of aperture 3/4" above arrow and sight extension one more hole to go until fully back on 9" sight bar. 70m no problem whatsoever, aperture 1-1/4" above arrow and sight extension almost full out.


Oh, thank you! I'll try as soon as i get new arrows.


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