# Conduit stand question



## THawley (May 7, 2008)

Yes 1/2 inch EMT works fine but gas weld the conduit instead of trying mig weld it and CLEAN the area too be cleaned It helps if you can bend conduit It's simple to learn to do and I would'nt try to go higher than 10 foot . Good luck


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## Archer917 (Dec 28, 2008)

I run a lot of conduit where I work we are always moving machines around and that means tearing out old wiring and putting in new. And to me 1/2in EMT is nowhere near strong enough to trust to hold you up in the air!!! (It also has a galvanize type coating on it that puts off noxious gases and fumes when welded nasty crap). I might trust *1/2in Ridged *conduit welded in to a stand but still think of all you are losing if something goes wrong. Its all your choice but I would still go with the* Ridged *over the EMT in any size regardless of a few cents more cost and a few pounds more in weight.


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## gunslinger32244 (Oct 15, 2009)

I was thinking about using 1" emt for all vertical runs and 3/4" for ladder rungs and any braces. the rigid is 15.00 per 10 feet section and the emt is 5.00 per 10 foot. The imt is 7.00 a foot and in the middle of the others for thickness.


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## bruns51401 (Feb 16, 2010)

im a first year apprentice electrician and 1/2 emt is way way 2 week 2 hold much you might be able 2 throw a kid in 1/2 but not a 200 lbr.......3/4 for you rungs and in for rest is feasable but you can make hang ons really cheap under $50 out of 1x1x1/4 tube and a little grating and some 1x1x1/4 flat stock


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## andy33 (Feb 12, 2006)

I made one out of 1" or maybe it was 3/4 . Just kind of copied a ladder stand on the top bend. Then used alittle bigger pipe for the 1 foot connection sleeve and double bolted into upper and lower pieces where the bend came down into the legs. Then cut 18" or so steps,flattened out the ends,drilled them and bolted to legs. It was just a winter, I'm bored, project, if you watch the sales after season you can probably get a standard ladder stand in a box for not much if anything more than making it. And its engineered and tested! Like I said in another post its still out there and strucure wise its OK the seat is gone .


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## mrfitsall (Aug 18, 2010)

Yea dude, don,t mess around with trying to build stuff too cheap. The way I see it is 1/2 emt has the weight you need, but not the strength. Rigid conduit probably would do it but the weight would kill you dragging it in the woods and putting it up. Either way,you're dead. I know it stinks having your stuff ripped off but, just bite the bullet and buy a stand and alter the platform a bit to suit your needs. Maybee a ground blind might be something you could make work.


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

I only use 3/4" EMT for my hang-on stands, might use 1/2" for a gusset, but 3/4" is the lightest I use for a main support. If you are building a ladder stand I would stick with the 1" for the main rails if not heavier. Unless to put extra supports back to the tree I wouldn't use the 1". Look into the galvanized chain link fence posts, they are swaged on the ends making a nice socket fitting for the ladder sections. ALSO, when welding the EMT use either the T.I.G method or M.I.G.
Just .02 from someone who builds alot of stuff out of EMT


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

*Conduit stuff*

Here are a couple samples of my work.
-The loop steps on my sticks are 1/2" EMT but the side rails are 3/4", the side rails take all the stress.
-The main structure or this rifle stand/blind ( I wrap camo material around the sides to help conceal my sons movement) is 3/4" EMT and I beleive the two angle braces are 1/2". This thing is bullet proof and have hunted out of it myself a couple times, and I weigh 280 with all my gear. OH, and it only weighs 21 lbs.


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## Martial Archer (Jun 8, 2003)

I use 3/4" EMT for the legs, seat frame and major cross-bracing. 1/2" for rungs and everything else. I double up the legs though, like this:

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I have made them up to 15' tall. They are rock solid and will not bend with over 300# on the middle of the ladder (with the ladder horizontal on saw horses).


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## neo71665 (Jul 26, 2007)

bruns51401 said:


> im a first year apprentice electrician



Get out while you still can, lol


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

Martial Archer said:


> I use 3/4" EMT for the legs, seat frame and major cross-bracing. 1/2" for rungs and everything else. I double up the legs though, like this:
> 
> [URL="
> 
> ...


What kind of coupling system are you using or do you build them in one piece???


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## gunslinger32244 (Oct 15, 2009)

Martial Archer said:


> I use 3/4" EMT for the legs, seat frame and major cross-bracing. 1/2" for rungs and everything else. I double up the legs though, like this:
> 
> [URL="
> 
> ...


I really like the look of this stand 
How much does it way?
Thanks to all for the advice keep it comming since you can never learn enough.


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## Martial Archer (Jun 8, 2003)

RatherBArchery said:


> What kind of coupling system are you using or do you build them in one piece???


They are one piece.



gunslinger32244 said:


> I really like the look of this stand
> How much does it way?
> Thanks to all for the advice keep it comming since you can never learn enough.


Never put one on a scale, but aside from the bulk and maneuverability, it is not difficult for one man to carry balanced on shoulders...moved 'em hundreds of yards that way. One man can set them up as well but the 15' ( to the platform) ones kind of push the limit getting them stood up. 12' ones are a breeze!

I used 1/2" EMT to make the platform on the one in the photo but I ordinarily use expanded metal. It helps keep the weight down a bit.


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## hunter53 (Sep 29, 2010)

RatherBArchery said:


> Here are a couple samples of my work.
> -The loop steps on my sticks are 1/2" EMT but the side rails are 3/4", the side rails take all the stress.
> -The main structure or this rifle stand/blind ( I wrap camo material around the sides to help conceal my sons movement) is 3/4" EMT and I beleive the two angle braces are 1/2". This thing is bullet proof and have hunted out of it myself a couple times, and I weigh 280 with all my gear. OH, and it only weighs 21 lbs.


How do you weld this together??? MIG??? What kind of grate do you use for the floor on your stand?? I am wanting to make a few hang on stands my self because of the cost and the fact that I love to make everything myslef


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## bhuntin (Jun 19, 2009)

Any way to get a material list. And maybe some dimensions on both of these stands? What was the cost to build? That's some good lookin handy work. Bh


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## Martial Archer (Jun 8, 2003)

bhuntin said:


> Any way to get a material list. And maybe some dimensions on both of these stands? What was the cost to build? That's some good lookin handy work. Bh


An approximate list:

5 10' joints of 3/4" EMT (all major frame components)
4 10' joints of 1/2" EMT (ladder rungs, bracing connecting front/back ladder uprights)
Approx. 18"x24" expanded metal (for platform)
+/- 20' of seat belt webbing or equivalent.
Self drilling/self tapping screws and small washers for attaching webbing to seat frame
Camo spray paint (2 cans OD green, 1 tan or brown, 1 black)
A handful of knockouts from galvanized electrical gang boxes to cap open ends of EMT (mainly the 3/4" seat frame components)
3/4" conduit bender
Misc. clamps, straps, etc. to aid in construction.

I use a wire feed welded for construction.

Stands are 18" wide and 12' to 15' tall.

I figured material cost at one point and if I recall correctly, it was around $100. You can buy them cheaper for sure, but you can't buy one that is more comfortable IMO!


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## Firetom (Aug 11, 2007)

neo71665 said:


> Get out while you still can, lol


LMAO...Eight years in the trade and I thought the same thing when I first saw his post!


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## italianredneck (May 26, 2007)

bruns i`ve got 20 years in, just remember to always be in sight but fly under the radar. i`m laid off right now and you can`t buy a job any where i even checked the "tramp guides" and no luck. so good luck to you as an apprentice you`ll be fine


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## italianredneck (May 26, 2007)

oh by the way if you use rigid, spray galvanizing on the threads first, also don`t use cast fittings,and if you use threadless fittings set screw would be more sturdy than compression.just my 2 cents.


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## daltongang (Jul 29, 2009)

gunslinger32244 said:


> I was thinking about using 1" emt for all vertical runs and 3/4" for ladder rungs and any braces.


Same here and I'm 275 pounds!
Made it three 5 foot sections with a three foot section at the stand top.


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## neo71665 (Jul 26, 2007)

Firetom said:


> LMAO...Eight years in the trade and I thought the same thing when I first saw his post!


Why didn't somebody warn me 8 years ago. I started out DC electrical for 3 years and then swapped over to AC 5 years ago, I aint had my card long.


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## blackoak (Dec 9, 2003)

The best thing I have found to use for the ladder section is an old TV antena tower. The three sided kind designed to climb on. I cut one side off and you have a perfect ladder for the base ladder. You can sometimes pick them up cheap at local auctions. Just be sure it is in good condition and not rusted out.


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## bhuntin (Jun 19, 2009)

Thanks. B


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## rigginuts (Dec 27, 2008)

blackoak said:


> The best thing I have found to use for the ladder section is an old TV antena tower. The three sided kind designed to climb on. I cut one side off and you have a perfect ladder for the base ladder. You can sometimes pick them up cheap at local auctions. Just be sure it is in good condition and not rusted out.


Just use 1 1/4" fence top rail. Its has a male and female end, it's thin wall, it's 10' long, it's cheap and all Lowes carry it in their fence section. I use it for my leaning stand legs. Also a 1" piece of althread fits in the end for a leveling screw.


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## 5forks (Apr 20, 2010)

The seat of the stand folds up like a trap door to get in it. This stand was built to gun hunt out of the rails can get in the way with archery, I have to make sure I am out past the rails when I shoot from it. I plan on getting anouther one made with lower sides so I can shoot sitting down.


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

hunter53- I TIG weld all my stands using a silicone/bronze filler rod, I find this doesn't overheat the EMT like MIG or stick welding. I use scrap pieces of expanded and flattened metal that we have laying around the shop for my platforms, cuts the weight down as opposed to welding in all the extra tubes.

blackoak- My best climbing ladder to date, beside the LOOP LADDERS I build, is an old T.V antenna. I leave one side as is THEN, measure back 6" on the tubes running away on either side and cut with a grinder/cut wheel. You have a flat ladder and the 6" pieces make a perfect stand-off going back to the tree. I have a 20 foot ladder in the woods now and only needed 3 ratchet straps to make it rock solid!! Oh yeah, I also install rungs in between the existing ones because my father has a short inseam and can not handle the standard spacing. I think at some spots it was 22"?? It is a struggle for me at 6'-2".


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## hunt123 (Jan 17, 2009)

Martial Archer said:


> An approximate list:
> 
> .....
> Approx. 18"x24" expanded metal (for platform)
> .....


What is "expanded metal"? And where do you get it?


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

Expanded is the metal that looks like it has diamonds punched in it. If you are using it for a platform I wouldn't use anything lighter than 16 ga, I try and stay with 14 ga if I have it laying around.


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## teambringit2 (Oct 25, 2005)

Expanded metal is metal with diamond shaped holes in it. It can be raised or flatened and comes in different thicknesses. I can be found at any steel fab shop or McMaster Carr. mcmaster.com


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