# The $160 Mechanical Shooter/Draw Board



## Beastmaster

Hi guys and gals! I'm going to give you all a quick lesson in creating your own mechanical shooter and draw board combination for all of $160. 

Yes, that's right. $160, and all you need is a field trip to a Home Depot, a Harbor Freight, and a deep socket tool set. Anyone can build this, and you don't need welding gear, any specialized stuff, or a green alien slave girl to build this for you.

Starting off - the parts list.

1) A Ryobi Miter Saw Quickstand, model # A18MS01. Link is here:
http://www.ryobitools.com/catalog/accessories/standtables/A18MS01

Home Depot has it normally for 99 dollars. It's on sale for 79 dollars right now. Rated for 400 pounds of abuse, this will be more than sufficient to handle a bow.

2) A Harbor Freight Haulmaster Manual winch., model 95541.
http://www.harborfreight.com/manual-strap-winch-95541.html

It's normally priced at 29.99. This is a 900 pound winch. 

3) Some generic foam tubing, like from a swimming noodle or pipe insulation. 5 bucks.

4) Duct Tape and some ball ended shock cord. 5 bucks.

5) TruFire Patriot or Patriot Junior release - average price, 20 bucks.

Total price - $160 excluding tax and gas.


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## Beastmaster

Okay - part 1.

After buying all of the stuff, go and unpack the draw board.


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## Beastmaster

Part 2. Unbox the stand.

Note that one part of the stand is using just the round support (the left side). That is on purpose.


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## Beastmaster

Part 3 - take the winch, and attach it to the stand attachment that came with the Ryobi stand. Use the carriage bolts (provided by Ryobi) to attach the winch.


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## Beastmaster

Part 4. Take the foam, and cut it to cover the round support end. Use Duct tape to attach it to the support end as shown.

This is basically the equivalent of a bow hand.


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## Beastmaster

Part 6 - take a mechanical release, and attach it to the hook. The hook is useful for a wide variety of things - you can use it to do a draw board style off of a D-Loop, or you can use it to be an attachment for a wrist release. My wife's Carter Quickie 1 is shown. Shh...she doesn't know I used it for this...yet.

The hook setup shown is at full draw.


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## Beastmaster

Part 7, you now have a completed mechanical shooter and draw board.

To attach the bow, you basically take the ball ended shock cord and use it to attach the bow at the foam ended side. Please take the screws and lock everything down.


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## cruss

Nice! Where can I get a Green Alien Slave Girl?


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## 05_sprcrw

Looks great! I will be making one of these soon.


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## Beastmaster

Using it:

You basically take the bow, attach it using the ball ended shock cord to the foam end. Please note that in these pictures, the foam covered support end is extended. This allows you to have no interference with the legs of the stand.

Attaching the hook to the release, you then basically attach the release to the bow's D-Loop, put an arrow in, crank back while watching for the cams to hit the string stops.

When you hit the stops, gently trigger the release.

The next attachments are of my Athens Exceed and my son's target PSE Chaos on the board. The final shot is from my kid's PSE Chaos shooting a single hole using way overspined arrows out of his bow.

Enjoy. I know I am!

-Steve


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## Beastmaster

cruss said:


> Nice! Where can I get a Green Alien Slave Girl?


Heh. I'd have to take makeup and paint my wife green. Won't work. She'd take her bow and turn me red with holes.


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## Beastmaster

At this price, everyone should own one. And, with the sale at Home Depot, it's actually 140.


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## bfoot

Great post! I already have a homemade draw board but would love to have a "Hooter Shooter" type shooter. So my main interest is in using it as a shooter. Could you answer a few questions?

Are you getting same "shot same hole" results using it as a shooter? What is the farthest distance you have accurately shot it? Do you have to add weight to steady it as a shooter like other shooters? Are there any adjustments on the legs so you can aim it?

Bob


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## aread

That's really cool.

How do you adjust for aiming? 

Allen


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## asa1485

Is there a way to adjust for up and down Steve?


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## 138104

So cool! This would be great for broadhead tuning!


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## Beastmaster

Interspersed in bold.

-Steve



bfoot said:


> Great post! I already have a homemade draw board but would love to have a "Hooter Shooter" type shooter. So my main interest is in using it as a shooter. Could you answer a few questions?
> 
> Are you getting same "shot same hole" results using it as a shooter?
> *Yes. If you see the one shot above, that was a 3 shot setup at 10 yards using the same arrow.*
> 
> 
> What is the farthest distance you have accurately shot it?
> *20 yards*
> 
> Do you have to add weight to steady it as a shooter like other shooters?
> *No. The stand is already nearly 80 pounds, not including the bow.*
> 
> Are there any adjustments on the legs so you can aim it?
> *You don't need to do adjustments on the legs. The outrigger arms allow for up/down. You can also lay the web belt over another outrigger arm extension so you can adjust where the nock height is as well as bow height.*
> 
> Bob


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## Beastmaster

Left/right - shift the whole assembly left or right.

Up/down - in pictures that I'm going to post, the nock/release end as well as the bow end can be adjusted up or down.



aread said:


> That's really cool.
> 
> How do you adjust for aiming?
> 
> Allen


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## Beastmaster

asa1485 said:


> Is there a way to adjust for up and down Steve?


Yes. Give me a sec and I'll post it before I leave for league.


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## Beastmaster

Okay...more pics.

This is a 3 arrow group out of a 2010 Hoyt Maxxis 35 using Easton Epic 400's - in other words, crappy shop arrows. 20 yard distance. Note the damaged arrow.

-Steve


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## Beastmaster

Adjustability - this allows you to adjust the bow height. Note that the bow can be moved up or down due to the "T" it's attached to. The base of the "T" can be moved up or down and set with a set screw.


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## Beastmaster

Nock/release side adjustment. I moved one of the "T" attachments from the unused side and moved it to the side that holds the bow. It now allows the strap and release to ride on top of it. This will allow you to adjust the nock side height overall. Combined with the bow side height adjustment, you're able to fine tune the height.


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## Beastmaster

Overall side view from an indoor lane. If you need to shift for windage, just gradually move the back end.

The whole thing excluding a bow weighs about 80 pounds. If you need to sandbag it, you could. But, considering the groups I've been getting, it's not necessary.


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## hrchdog

I will be making one of these Friday!!!!!!!


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## Beastmaster

hrchdog said:


> I will be making one of these Friday!!!!!!!


Cool. Post pics - I'd love to see if there's any other variations that could be created from the Ryobi stand.

-Steve


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## Swift Arrow

best thread in weeks, way cool info.......................


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## Beastmaster

Okay - another photo of the stand.

From this side view (with a bow at full draw), you're able to see the "T"'s.

The "T" holding the bow is adjustable up/down as well as forward/back on the extension rod.

The "T" that the strap is resting on is also adjustable up/down as well as forward.

This allows you to adjust either bow height, release end height, or both.

From there, you're able to simulate a higher or lower style of anchor. Want a lower anchor? Put the pull strap under the "T". 

This particular bow (Hoyt Maxxis 35) was set to 31" DL. 

My only "gripe" is that this style of setup isn't going to work well with recurves. But - 90% of the stuff that I do is compound.

What I'm thrilled about - we have staff and students getting ready for tournament season. This rig allows us to really tune our bows and arrows. 

-Steve


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## Beastmaster

Swift Arrow said:


> best thread in weeks, way cool info.......................


Thank you!


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## Beastmaster

Just on a side note - I've been scratching my head for weeks regarding building a mechanical shooting device. I personally can't see any reason why one has to shell out oodles of bucks when theoretically one can take COTS (common off the shelf) stuff and build one.

Luckily, this Ryobi stand was literally hanging in front of me while I was at Home Depot buying bug spray (of all things). I was taking a detour through the tool section (gee, what self respecting guy wouldn't!), and this was hanging in the center shelf area. It was literally like an epiphany. 

I bought it, ran to Harbor Freight (one block away), and went home.

Frankly, for $160, if you're even semi-serious about archery, you should build one of these devices. At this price, every pro shop should have this in their lane.

-Steve


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## Beastmaster

More fun. I should be able to take my high speed camera and gorillapod it to various spots so I can get some cool video. Hmmm.....


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## AR&BOW

This is great, thanks for posting


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## GhostBuck_007

Best thread I've seen in a long time, great idea man...


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## buckhunter2705

I'm definately building one when I get back from work next week


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## petrey10

yep I need one of these!!!


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## cicero

Called local Home Depot and they have them in stock!!! Gonna get me one at lunch!! Oh the possibilities!!!:cheers:


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## petrey10

one quick question.... how do you initially aim the bow safely?


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## petrey10

any reason you didn't go with a worm gear winch?


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## Beastmaster

petrey10 said:


> one quick question.... how do you initially aim the bow safely?


Just like with all of them (Hooter Shooter, Kwik Shooter), you basically eyeball the arrow's position.

If you note the downrange pic, the shop I work for has a bunch of lanes. In the outdoor setups, I eyeballed it and was able to nail the Bulldog target straight on.


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## Beastmaster

petrey10 said:


> any reason you didn't go with a worm gear winch?


The web based one is technically safer. As a longtime 4x4'er and former off road instructor for the Red Cross, I hate using metal winch cable for recoveries. I'm a synthetic type of guy. It's also easily visible to see an issue with the webbing. I could, of course, replace the wire rope with a synthetic one, but since I wanted to keep things on a budget, the web based one won out.

However, you can use whatever winch you'd like to use. One of my fellow instructors has a worm gear based drawboard and it works fine. The design can handle a worm gear winch fine.

-Steve


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## Beastmaster

buckhunter2705 said:


> I'm definately building one when I get back from work next week


Bear in mind that I don't know how long the Ryobi stand will be on sale, hence why I mentioned the $160 build price, since I used the regular pricing instead of the sale one.


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## Beastmaster

*So...what do we nickname this mechanical shooter?*

The guys (and gals) at the shop were wondering what to call this....

The.... 

Home De-Bow Shooter?

Harbor Depot Shooter?

Home Freight Shooter?

Ry-Bow-Bi?

-Steve


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## petrey10

man I can't find a cheap worm gear winch anywhere!!! anybody have any ideas?


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## Beastmaster

petrey10 said:


> man I can't find a cheap worm gear winch anywhere!!! anybody have any ideas?


Define cheap. 30 bucks or under is great for a new one.

Do you have a Harbor Freight near you?


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## petrey10

my vote is for Ry-BOW-Bi


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## petrey10

30 or under is perfect... but i am wanting the worm gear not rachet...


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## Beastmaster

HF has this one on sale for 29.99. It's a worm gear version.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-capacity-geared-winch-5798.html

-Steve


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## Beastmaster

On a side note, I noticed that the worm gear winch for 29.99 doesn't have a pawl of sorts to lock the spool. The ratchet pawl is necessary to lock the spool in place as well as allow you to walk away from the winch and trigger the release (unless you use a string to do so.)

You also won't get consistent cam timing - there will be variances if a pawl isn't there.

-Steve


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## bfoot

Beastmaster said:


> Interspersed in bold.
> 
> -Steve


Oh it's on now! I am going to have one by the weekend. Thanks so much for sharing this. I stumbled across an ides like you did (except wandering through Lowe's) to use a Jawhorse sawhorse clamp for a bow press. Works great and I needed one anyway.

Bob


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## Sighting In

I'm still a fan of Robo-Bow. 

Again, kudos to you and your genius, Steve.


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## BlkIce

Beastmaster said:


> On a side note, I noticed that the worm gear winch for 29.99 doesn't have a pawl of sorts to lock the spool. The *ratchet pawl is necessary to lock the spool in place* as well as allow you to walk away from the winch and trigger the release (unless you use a string to do so.)
> 
> You also won't get consistent cam timing - there will be variances if a pawl isn't there.
> 
> -Steve


Most, if not all worm gear winches won't free spool. You have to turn the handle for the spool to turn. Also, you can use a turnbuckle between the hook on the strap or cable and the release or catch hook if using as a draw board for setting timing. The turnbuckle will give you finite adjustability. Very good idea by the way. I'll have one in a couple of days.


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## Beastmaster

Two minor things:

1- we improved the way the bow is "held" using stacked rubber tubing and a bunchaton of duct tape. Bows are held level throughout the draw cycle. It basically creates a "V" channel for the riser to fit into. 

2- we used the Ryobi RoboBow to test out a local 3D shooter's Hoyt. Come to find out that the bow's bottom cam was under rotating. Draw board plus shooter - sweet.


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## Beastmaster

Sighting In said:


> I'm still a fan of Robo-Bow.
> 
> Again, kudos to you and your genius, Steve.


Thanks! You'll see some minor changes to the bow hand end of the unit when you come in on Saturday.


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## BackcountryBull

BEST POST I HAVE EVER READ HERE!!!!! 

Keep the pictures coming, I am visualizing the grip part that you modified...but pictures would help. I have my new Ryobi Robobow sitting right in front of me right now. I took my winch off my old draw board, and purchased the Ryobi stand today. Simply amazing!!!! You the man!!!


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## bushmasterar15

Steve I'd have you build one for me if I had some extra cash handy. See you in a few weeks.


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## AR&BOW

Beastmaster said:


> Thanks! You'll see some minor changes to the bow hand end of the unit when you come in on Saturday.


Can you kindly post some pics of what you have done for securing the bow to the stand?


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## jim p

I have been wanting to make a draw board shooter for a while. I even went and bought a winch but never started make the machine. Now I can just go and get the stand and I will be in business.

Thanks for this great post.


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## hunt123

Awesome!!! Great idea. Thanks for posting.


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## petrey10

i don't know how I missed that worm gear winch.... thanks


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## Beastmaster

AR&BOW said:


> Can you kindly post some pics of what you have done for securing the bow to the stand?


The bow is secured to the stand by using this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-ball-stretch-cord-set-47302.html

It's basically held down by the stretch cord.

I'll take pics when I go to the shop later today.

-Steve


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## archerm3

petrey10 said:


> man I can't find a cheap worm gear winch anywhere!!! anybody have any ideas?


I made one of another design and I tried a worm gear and a racheting winch. The rachet works much better. I still have my worm gear one laying up on a shelf. It takes too long to unwind/wind. The racheting version seems to be more consistent in getting DL repeatable.


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## arrowpa1

great even someone with my limited ability could build one of these think i will try


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## AR&BOW

Beastmaster said:


> The bow is secured to the stand by using this:
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-ball-stretch-cord-set-47302.html
> 
> It's basically held down by the stretch cord.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll take pics when I go to the shop later today.
> 
> -Steve


Yeah, thats what I thought, but you said you changed it and that is what I was curious about.


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## Beastmaster

AR&BOW said:


> Yeah, thats what I thought, but you said you changed it and that is what I was curious about.


I did in a way. I bought some vinyl tubing, and I was originally going to use that to hold the bow in place using U-bolts. That didn't work. And, the foam started to disintegrate and get into a set.

So, I took the vinyl tubing, and I built a "V" channel with it. I then duct taped it to the assembly so that it would hold the bow vertically and square at the same time. The stretch cord is still the stuff that holds the bow down.


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## TexasCanesFan

This is very very cool.

I bet there are a bunch of these built using your design here.


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## MikeR

Finished mine yesterday, thanks for the idea. Used the winch off the draw board since this will work great as a draw board.


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## cicero

Me 2!! havent got to try it yet but will soon!!!


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## Beastmaster

Hey...if you all build one, post pics of it!


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## BackcountryBull

I'll get some pictures of mine when I get back home next week. All I can say is....why didn't I think of this earlier?


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## muck

name it "160 bucks"


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## AR&BOW

Beastmaster said:


> I did in a way. I bought some vinyl tubing, and I was originally going to use that to hold the bow in place using U-bolts. That didn't work. And, the foam started to disintegrate and get into a set.
> 
> So, I took the vinyl tubing, and I built a "V" channel with it. I then duct taped it to the assembly so that it would hold the bow vertically and square at the same time. The stretch cord is still the stuff that holds the bow down.


Ok. . . . . how about pics of the "V" channel?:teeth:


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## Beastmaster

AR&BOW said:


> Ok. . . . . how about pics of the "V" channel?:teeth:


Just got home. Let me transfer the pics.


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## Beastmaster

Here's pics of the new V channel plus the stretch cords.

-Steve


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## ToddB

Awesome idea, definatley a project for when hunting season is over. Cant wait to see how guys are going to tweak this great idea. Got to come up with a way to permantley mount a yard stick for draw length when used as a DB


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## Beastmaster

ToddB said:


> Awesome idea, definatley a project for when hunting season is over. Cant wait to see how guys are going to tweak this great idea. Got to come up with a way to permantley mount a yard stick for draw length when used as a DB


Just put an Easton measuring arrow into the bow and draw. Done.


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## ruttnwapati

A great big ataboy to you!!!! Looks professional, high quality, with the same features of the spot-hogg hooter shooter .....and even retail knock offs of the hooter shooter. GREAT WORK and First Class Tutorial. Definately looking into making one at this price to labor ratio !!!!:smile:


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## shields642

ok i have to wonder what is the point in this thing? that hundred and sixty bucks could of bought better accessories for your bow and if you cant tune your bow by shooting it yourself then you probably shouldnt be shooting sorry


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## oneluckypops

shields642 said:


> ok i have to wonder what is the point in this thing? that hundred and sixty bucks could of bought better accessories for your bow and if you cant tune your bow by shooting it yourself then you probably shouldnt be shooting sorry


Ok I have to wonder what is the point in this post?^^^^ Dont like it dont build it use YOUR 160 bucks for YOUR accesseries.


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## psumitch

using that manual winch, is there any way to let the bow down without shooting the arrow? i could see with a worm drive winch you could just crank it back down.


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## TTNuge

Great post and what a great idea. Off to my local Home Depot ASAP!


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## Beastmaster

shields642 said:


> ok i have to wonder what is the point in this thing? that hundred and sixty bucks could of bought better accessories for your bow and if you cant tune your bow by shooting it yourself then you probably shouldnt be shooting sorry


Really? Then please do tell us what accessories would be money better spent?

You're able to tell a 4 degree over or under rotation by shooting it? Cool. How do you do it? 

Every super tuner has a draw board, a Hooter Shooter, Kwik Shooter, or a clone of one. Please do tell what we should spend our time on


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## Beastmaster

psumitch said:


> using that manual winch, is there any way to let the bow down without shooting the arrow? i could see with a worm drive winch you could just crank it back down.


Yes. With the double ratchet winch that I recommended, you can let the master pawl down, then lock it, freespool the handle pawl to the original position, lock the handle pawl, and repeat. This allows you to ratchet the draw cycle in any part of the cycle.


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## jfuller17

Sweet man!


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## Sisco

Beastmaster,

Great post. It's great to see people sharing such useful ideas. It obviously had a "sponsored manufacturer" a bit nervous. This post adds context to the post made by that "sponsor".

Keep up the good work. I will have to make one for next season.


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## Deer Eliminator

Great job! Keep up the good work! Hey Beastmaster heres one I built a few years ago I love it. Just like me you will love yours.







They make working on a bow much easier!


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## jim p

I am going to use a worm gear winch. I would like some suggestions on how I can fill the spool of the winch to make it wind up the cable faster. I think the spool center is around 2" in diameter and the outside of the spool is around 4" in diameter. If I can make the inside of the spool about 3 1/2" in diameter the winch will take up cable much faster. I may be able to just take a bunch of wooden dowels and tape them to the center spool and then wind the cable over the dowels. Does anyone have any better ideas?


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## Beastmaster

jim p said:


> I am going to use a worm gear winch. I would like some suggestions on how I can fill the spool of the winch to make it wind up the cable faster. I think the spool center is around 2" in diameter and the outside of the spool is around 4" in diameter. If I can make the inside of the spool about 3 1/2" in diameter the winch will take up cable much faster. I may be able to just take a bunch of wooden dowels and tape them to the center spool and then wind the cable over the dowels. Does anyone have any better ideas?


How about starting off with a full spool of rope? This way you aren't doing anything unusual.


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## stonecoldkiller

Great idea might try and make one of these.


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## MysticFlight

am going to use a worm gear winch. I would like some suggestions on how I can fill the spool of the winch to make it wind up the cable faster. I think the spool center is around 2" in diameter and the outside of the spool is around 4" in diameter. If I can make the inside of the spool about 3 1/2" in diameter the winch will take up cable much faster. I may be able to just take a bunch of wooden dowels and tape them to the center spool and then wind the cable over the dowels. Does anyone have any better ideas? 


I use these at work for raising and lowering pumps. I take the handles off and use two nuts on thereads to lock together and use our dewalt cordless impact with a socket. Works like a charm and im sure a regular drill chucked up well would do the same


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## Beastmaster

jim p said:


> I am going to use a worm gear winch. I would like some suggestions on how I can fill the spool of the winch to make it wind up the cable faster. I think the spool center is around 2" in diameter and the outside of the spool is around 4" in diameter. If I can make the inside of the spool about 3 1/2" in diameter the winch will take up cable much faster. I may be able to just take a bunch of wooden dowels and tape them to the center spool and then wind the cable over the dowels. Does anyone have any better ideas?





MysticFlight said:


> I use these at work for raising and lowering pumps. I take the handles off and use two nuts on thereads to lock together and use our dewalt cordless impact with a socket. Works like a charm and im sure a regular drill chucked up well would do the same


Just as a side note - there is a reason why I am using the winch that I put on it.

1) Overdrawing the bow is possible. A ratcheting setup will help you minimize that.

2) A drill setup will work, but be aware of #1

3) You're able to ratchet exactly to the same spot every time. As much as worm gear winches work, getting to the exact same spot is harder. Ratcheting winch types will get you to the exact same spot.


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## hunt123

shields642 said:


> ok i have to wonder what is the point in this thing? that hundred and sixty bucks could of bought better accessories for your bow and if you cant tune your bow by shooting it yourself then you probably shouldnt be shooting sorry


If a person is trying to be as accurate as they can, they need to look at the 2 main components of accurate shooting: the equipment and the person. A "Hooter Shooter" is the best way possible to determine if wide groups are because of the shooter or the equipment. If it's the equipment, then you can make whatever tweaks you need to without the shooter affecting it. Once you know your equipment is dead on, then you know any lack of accuracy is due to the shooter.

I can't tell you how many times I've been frustrated, feeling like my form was really good, my hold was very tight and my release was good yet my groups were unexplainably way wide. Without a "Hooter Shooter" to take me out of the equation, I have no way of knowing if it's an equipment problem or a "me" problem.

To the person who just puts deer down at 20 - 30 yds and has a "fair" sized area to hit, it may not make any difference in their mind. But for someone that is trying to get consistent 3 - 4" groups at 70 yds (and hopes for even smaller ones), it makes a WHOLE lot of difference in determining what problem to chase.


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## jim p

Here are some pictures of the shooter that I made. I did not do anything except put the parts together. There are some small things that need to be done to make the machine better. I used a piece of string to hold the bow vertical. I also put some dowels and duct tape on the spool of the winch to make it take up cable faster.


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## Beastmaster

Cool! And I'm glad to see it worked for others.


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## jim p

The release needs to be held firmly in place so it can't move during the shot. If I move the winch closer to the end where the release is this will help but I need to make some kind of release holder out of wood or something just to keep it from moving.

When I was playing with the machine, I didn't have a mark on the arrow to see when I was at full draw. I used the flat groove in the cam for the bus cable to set the draw. When the cable just laid flat in the groove I stop cranking. I have a binary cam bow and this should allow me to check the cam timing with precision.


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## Tunaboy

*Great post*

This is a great idea and lets us less than rich guys have access to a Ryobi-Shooter

Thanks again. I am sure that as others build these more good modifications will surface


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## petrey10

Beastmaster said:


> Just as a side note - there is a reason why I am using the winch that I put on it.
> 
> 1) Overdrawing the bow is possible. A ratcheting setup will help you minimize that.
> 
> 2) A drill setup will work, but be aware of #1
> 
> 3) You're able to ratchet exactly to the same spot every time. As much as worm gear winches work, getting to the exact same spot is harder. Ratcheting winch types will get you to the exact same spot.


but on a rachet winch what if the exact draw length is inbetween rachets? then you are either short or long... granted very slightly but if you can get exact i would think you would want exact... 


I like the idea about using a drill I might try that


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## andy7yo

I built mine this afternoon, only problem is a QAD rest will contact the tube unless you position the bow very close to the end of the t-pipe. Not a big problem, I'll just have to build another bow holder.


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## TTNuge

petrey10 said:


> but on a rachet winch what if the exact draw length is inbetween rachets? then you are either short or long... granted very slightly but if you can get exact i would think you would want exact...
> 
> 
> I like the idea about using a drill I might try that


I plan on building mine with a turnbuckle inbetween the the release and the cable on the winch. That way you can make micro adjustments to get it perfect. Tip I picked up elsewhere is to go with an "open" style turnbuckle so you can see how many threads are still screwed in and don't risk it letting go.

With apologies to nuts&bolts I stole this picture of the turnbuckle he used on his drawboard..


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## skynight

I'm trying to see the winch handles on both examples; they both appear as if they are on the side where they will run into the attachment points when operated. Can the winch be mounted to point either direction? Are there support arms on both ends of the stand?


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## L.I.Archer

Okay, I took Beastmaster's design and built a "Ryobi Robo-bow Shooter" (as he calls it) for our shop, with a slight modification to the part that holds the bow:







This allows for quick release of the bow and also allows the bow to move freely at the shot. Because the threaded portion of the u-bolt is bent 55*, it won't pop out of the holes drilled through both tubes. The u-bolt is covered with a rubber tube.

I drilled through and bolted a 1" dia. steel pipe, wrapped in the middle with duct tape to fit right into the groove of the bow's grip. It also elevates the rest away from the 2" dia. tube so that it will give clearance to a QAD's thumb lever.








No need for bungees and the bow is free to tilt forward freely at the shot. The bow shown is a Parker Inferno.

Tomorrow, I'll post a picture of how I installed a caliper release to the winch strap.


----------



## skynight

LI Archer:
A couple questions: You bent the U bolt yourself, correct? And you are just slipping it into the holes, not screwing the nuts on the u bolt?


----------



## L.I.Archer

skynight said:


> LI Archer:
> A couple questions: You bent the U bolt yourself, correct? And you are just slipping it into the holes, not screwing the nuts on the u bolt?


Yes, I bent the bolt myself using a vise and a metal pipe. I did it slowly so I wouldn't snap the bolt. And yes, the bolt just slips into the holes I drilled.


----------



## lc12

Steve,
Great post! Best I have seen since Gunner7800's bow press plan!!!
Question for you. 
In putting this info together as a Word document for future use I noticed that there is no "Part 5"!
Part #4 is the "duct taping for the bow handle, and then it jumps to Part #6, the release.
Did I miss something?
I built a drawboard, but it is nothing like this and now it looks like I will be scavaging the parts off of my drawboard to build the combo shooter/drawboard of your design.
Thanks for your time and detailed explanation of the build.
As they say, "a picture is worth a thousand words"!


----------



## Beastmaster

lc12 said:


> Steve,
> Great post! Best I have seen since Gunner7800's bow press plan!!!
> Question for you.
> In putting this info together as a Word document for future use I noticed that there is no "Part 5"!
> Part #4 is the "duct taping for the bow handle, and then it jumps to Part #6, the release.
> Did I miss something?
> I built a drawboard, but it is nothing like this and now it looks like I will be scavaging the parts off of my drawboard to build the combo shooter/drawboard of your design.
> Thanks for your time and detailed explanation of the build.
> As they say, "a picture is worth a thousand words"!


Nope. That's a mess up on my part. My apologies!


----------



## Beastmaster

L.I.Archer said:


> Okay, I took Beastmaster's design and built a "Ryobi Robo-bow Shooter" (as he calls it) for our shop, with a slight modification to the part that holds the bow:
> View attachment 940378
> 
> This allows for quick release of the bow and also allows the bow to move freely at the shot. Because the threaded portion of the u-bolt is bent 55*, it won't pop out of the holes drilled through both tubes. The u-bolt is covered with a rubber tube.
> 
> I drilled through and bolted a 1" dia. steel pipe, wrapped in the middle with duct tape to fit right into the groove of the bow's grip. It also elevates the rest away from the 2" dia. tube so that it will give clearance to a QAD's thumb lever.
> 
> View attachment 940380
> 
> No need for bungees and the bow is free to tilt forward freely at the shot. The bow shown is a Parker Inferno.
> 
> Tomorrow, I'll post a picture of how I installed a caliper release to the winch strap.


That really rocks! Nice change, and I'm going to have to do something similar.


----------



## L.I.Archer

Beastmaster said:


> That really rocks! Nice change, and I'm going to have to do something similar.


Thanks, Bro! Couldn't have done it without your ingenious idea.


----------



## Beastmaster

skynight said:


> I'm trying to see the winch handles on both examples; they both appear as if they are on the side where they will run into the attachment points when operated. Can the winch be mounted to point either direction? Are there support arms on both ends of the stand?


Yes and yes


----------



## Beastmaster

Now that others have done it, I have to ask - how does it shoot and how accurate has it been for you?


----------



## L.I.Archer

Beastmaster said:


> Now that others have done it, I have to ask - how does it shoot and how accurate has it been for you?


Shot the same arrow into the same hole with the Parker Inferno. If I had shot two arrows back-to-back, it would have been a robin hood.


----------



## Beastmaster

L.I.Archer said:


> Shot the same arrow into the same hole with the Parker Inferno. If I had shot two arrows back-to-back, it would have been a robin hood.


Schwing! Thanks!


----------



## L.I.Archer

Beastmaster said:


> Schwing! Thanks!


No, thank you! I was looking into buying a Hooter Shooter, but they are just too expensive, even at cost. You just saved me $1,200.


----------



## Tunaboy

*Pics*

There were some other pics on this thread before. Showed the same stand but was in more of a woodsy enviorment. Not sure where they went. Home depot has a tag on the stand that says " New low price" so maybe cheaper if it goes on sale for X-Mass.


----------



## IBM

This is great I'm going to pick up a stand tomorrow, I even have a Riyobi miter saw.
Thanks IBM


----------



## hunt123

Picked up mine today and thought about a problem. The winch I have has plastic coated cable on it. So potentially, it could be changing the location of the release 
"anchor point" (left/right) depending on where the cable is winding. It could be winding to the left on the spool, the right or in the middle.

Has anyone had a similar problem and how did you fix it? The OP didn't because his winch has a strap as wide as the winding cylinder.

Also, has anyone tried shooting with it at 50 yds or so?


----------



## skynight

hunt123 said:


> Picked up mine today and thought about a problem. The winch I have has plastic coated cable on it. So potentially, it could be changing the location of the release
> "anchor point" (left/right) depending on where the cable is winding. It could be winding to the left on the spool, the right or in the middle.
> 
> Has anyone had a similar problem and how did you fix it? The OP didn't because his winch has a strap as wide as the winding cylinder.
> 
> Also, has anyone tried shooting with it at 50 yds or so?


I plan to utilize the winch from my drawboard. It uses a rope. I plan to run the rope through an eyelet to keep it in the same plane. Don't have it completely figured yet though. If you look at the yellow homemade shooter posted in this thread you will see another option - attaching the winch to a moving block that rides on the frame itself.

~edit~ If you look at the 5th pic in post 91 you will see the block to mount the T post. There are 2 of them in the package. That might be useable as a moving block. Attach the winch on the back side and the release on the front.


----------



## Sighting In

Beastmaster said:


> That really rocks! Nice change, and I'm going to have to do something similar.


Agreed. That smaller bar looks like it will fit the bow much better than the big, chunky one. Great job!


----------



## Tunaboy

*Shooter*

Did see some other pics on this thread yesterday. Looked like the same style shooter only in a more woodsy setting. Not sure where they went?? Also Home Depot had a tag on the stand that said new lower price. Might go on sale for X-Mass for less. Not sure if Home depot is phasing them out.


----------



## hunt123

skynight said:


> I plan to utilize the winch from my drawboard. It uses a rope. I plan to run the rope through an eyelet to keep it in the same plane. Don't have it completely figured yet though. If you look at the yellow homemade shooter posted in this thread you will see another option - attaching the winch to a moving block that rides on the frame itself.
> 
> ~edit~ If you look at the 5th pic in post 91 you will see the block to mount the T post. There are 2 of them in the package. That might be useable as a moving block. Attach the winch on the back side and the release on the front.


He had a good idea on that moving block. The T Post mounting block might work, or it might bind up when pressure's put on it. I looked at my winch and I think there's a way I can block the cable from sliding from side to side and force it to come out of the center. Might not be as precise as the moving block idea though.


----------



## hunt123

Tunaboy said:


> Did see some other pics on this thread yesterday. Looked like the same style shooter only in a more woodsy setting. Not sure where they went?? Also Home Depot had a tag on the stand that said new lower price. Might go on sale for X-Mass for less. Not sure if Home depot is phasing them out.


Not phasing them out. They're in their new catalog for $99.


----------



## Ranger Link

L.I.Archer said:


> Okay, I took Beastmaster's design and built a "Ryobi Robo-bow Shooter" (as he calls it) for our shop, with a slight modification to the part that holds the bow:
> View attachment 940378
> 
> This allows for quick release of the bow and also allows the bow to move freely at the shot. Because the threaded portion of the u-bolt is bent 55*, it won't pop out of the holes drilled through both tubes. The u-bolt is covered with a rubber tube.
> 
> I drilled through and bolted a 1" dia. steel pipe, wrapped in the middle with duct tape to fit right into the groove of the bow's grip. It also elevates the rest away from the 2" dia. tube so that it will give clearance to a QAD's thumb lever.
> 
> View attachment 940380
> 
> No need for bungees and the bow is free to tilt forward freely at the shot. The bow shown is a Parker Inferno.
> 
> Tomorrow, I'll post a picture of how I installed a caliper release to the winch strap.


I have a QAD and it looks like the bar holding the bow would get in the way of the QAD operating correctly. Your thoughts?


----------



## hunt123

Ranger Link said:


> I have a QAD and it looks like the bar holding the bow would get in the way of the QAD operating correctly. Your thoughts?


See post #99


----------



## TTNuge

L.I.Archer said:


> This allows for quick release of the bow and also allows the bow to move freely at the shot. Because the threaded portion of the u-bolt is bent 55*, it won't pop out of the holes drilled through both tubes. The u-bolt is covered with a rubber tube.


Do you find that this movement that is allowed makes it difficult to get repeatable "same hole" performance?


----------



## L.I.Archer

Okay, I put a 70# 82nd Airborne in the shooter today and the brackets holding the winch popped right off. So, I took the two angle brackets that came with the stand and attached them to the existing screws in the brackets and screwed the brackets right to the two round tubes:









After the brackets were resecured, I put the 82nd Airborne through paper and after 4 shots with adjustments in between, it shot a perfect bullet hole. The bow had a Trophy Taker arrow rest on it and there was clearance using the 1" bar I installed (see post #99).

Here's how I attached the release head. This is an Allen release that has a T-bar at the end of the shaft (where it used to be mounted to the wrist strap). I burned a hole in the strap using a hot nail and installed the release inline with the strap:


----------



## Bowbuster123

Very COOOOL. I am off to Home Depot and then to Princess Auto to pick up my parts.
Thank you for the very great idea.


----------



## petrey10

why do you have a nock above the d loop?


----------



## L.I.Archer

petrey10 said:


> why do you have a nock above the d loop?


It was temporary as I was trying to papertune the bow. I didn't want the loop to slide up and I wanted to be able to move the loop if needed. After the bow tuned, I took off the nock and tied some serving above the knot so it wouldn't slide. I shot it again after everything was set and it still blew a perfect hole.


----------



## Bowldtalker

L.I.Archer, would you please provide the dimensions of the U bolt that you used? 
Thanks


----------



## L.I.Archer

Bowldtalker said:


> L.I.Archer, would you please provide the dimensions of the U bolt that you used?
> Thanks


5/16" x 2" x 4-1/2"


----------



## L.I.Archer

TTNuge said:


> Do you find that this movement that is allowed makes it difficult to get repeatable "same hole" performance?


No, it does not make it difficult because the arrow has already left the bow before it starts to move. Mounting the bow this way is the same as shooting with an open bow hand.


----------



## jim p

L.I.Archer you have made some great modifications. I especially like the modification on the bow holding. There is one more addition that needs to be made. We need some way to have the release rock solid so that it can't move during the shot. My shooter would allow the release to move way too much during the shot. I used a string to pull the trigger on the release and very slowly added pressure until it shot. But if I just bumped the release the nock would move side to side. 

I also had a little trouble keeping the bow vertical so that the bubble would stay centered so a little more will need to be done to the bow holder so the bow can be kept vertical easier.

Please keep the mods coming because this device has some really great potential.


----------



## L.I.Archer

jim p said:


> L.I.Archer you have made some great modifications. I especially like the modification on the bow holding. There is one more addition that needs to be made. We need some way to have the release rock solid so that it can't move during the shot. My shooter would allow the release to move way too much during the shot. I used a string to pull the trigger on the release and very slowly added pressure until it shot. But if I just bumped the release the nock would move side to side.
> 
> I also had a little trouble keeping the bow vertical so that the bubble would stay centered so a little more will need to be done to the bow holder so the bow can be kept vertical easier.
> 
> Please keep the mods coming because this device has some really great potential.


Believe it or not, the smaller bar in the grip's groove brings the bow vertical at full draw. And the release I'm using has a hair trigger, so I merely have to touch it with a bit of pressure and it goes. I pull the trigger straight back without flicking it and it shoots very well.


----------



## skynight

L.I.Archer said:


> Okay, I put a 70# 82nd Airborne in the shooter today and the brackets holding the winch popped right off. So, I took the two angle brackets that came with the stand and attached them to the existing screws in the brackets and screwed the brackets right to the two round tubes:


Did you have any issues with the extension bar or the T bar coming loose? I am wondering about the strength of them with just the big set screw holding them. I suppose they could be bolted permanently like you did the winch mounting bars. Any sign of the winch mounting bars bending once you secured them?
Thanks.


----------



## L.I.Archer

skynight said:


> Did you have any issues with the extension bar or the T bar coming loose? I am wondering about the strength of them with just the big set screw holding them. I suppose they could be bolted permanently like you did the winch mounting bars. Any sign of the winch mounting bars bending once you secured them?
> Thanks.


No issues with the extension bar coming loose as it is bolted through along with the 2" dia. bar with two 1/4" bolts. If the force of pulling the bow open doesn't break your wrist, it won't affect the extension bar and it won't snap the bolts.

Once I secured the winch mounting bars, they haven't moved.

For the guys who question if the QAD will clear the bar, I'll take a picture tomorrow with my bow with the QAD rest in the holder.


----------



## ex-wolverine

You guys are brilliant...Way to go Beasty!!


----------



## SemperF

Side note if your a Military Veteran you get 10% off at home depot


----------



## jimmyk

I nominate this for a sticky! Great work Steve.


----------



## jimmyk

Home depot has these online with the saw for 99.00. I'm guessing it is the same stand.


----------



## jim p

I am not satisfied with the release connection. I am thinking about making a wooden slide to go on the two metal tubes. Then attaching the winch to the slide and also attaching the release to the slide. This way the release will be rock solid to the shooter.


----------



## deertracker

jimmyk said:


> Home depot has these online with the saw for 99.00. I'm guessing it is the same stand.


It's not the same stand. The stand beastmaster used is now $79 regular price.


----------



## Beastmaster

The proper stand link at Home Depot Online is this one:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053


----------



## hunt123

L.I.Archer said:


> Okay, I took Beastmaster's design and built a "Ryobi Robo-bow Shooter" (as he calls it) for our shop, with a slight modification to the part that holds the bow:
> This allows for quick release of the bow and also allows the bow to move freely at the shot. Because the threaded portion of the u-bolt is bent 55*, it won't pop out of the holes drilled through both tubes. The u-bolt is covered with a rubber tube.
> 
> I drilled through and bolted a 1" dia. steel pipe, wrapped in the middle with duct tape to fit right into the groove of the bow's grip. It also elevates the rest away from the 2" dia. tube so that it will give clearance to a QAD's thumb lever.


A few questions:
1) Did you just use a hand drill on the 1 3/4" chrome tube? I assume you hit it with a punch first? It looks like it would be a little rough to drill without a drill press.
2) Is the 1" tube conduit?

I'm also trying to figure out how to make adjustable points that touch the riser so the bow's bubble will stay centered when the stand is on uneven or sloped ground. Pretty important if you don't have an indoor range.


----------



## hunt123

jim p said:


> L.I.Archer you have made some great modifications. I especially like the modification on the bow holding. There is one more addition that needs to be made. We need some way to have the release rock solid so that it can't move during the shot. My shooter would allow the release to move way too much during the shot. I used a string to pull the trigger on the release and very slowly added pressure until it shot. But if I just bumped the release the nock would move side to side.


I haven't finished mine yet, but here are a couple things I'm planning to do:

1) Move the winch so close that there's only about an inch or so of cable extension at full draw. Much harder to get release movement that way.

2) When at full draw, fasten a cable clamp to the cable (if your winch uses a cable) flush up to the front edge of the winch. That makes a positive, repeatable stop so there's no overdraw (or underdraw). If it uses a strap instead, maybe there's some other way to do the same thing.

The Ryobi support bars for the winch are adjustable in terms of how much pressure the clamp applies (at least on mine). Perhaps if that's tightened up quite a bit, the draw cycle won't pull the winch loose from the tubes. But I guess if a person is testing bows with gorilla level draw weight, he'd probably have to do the drill and bolt method mentioned earlier.


----------



## L.I.Archer

Okay, here's a picture of my Destroyer 350 with a QAD Ultra-Rest LD on the grip bar. The U-bolt is not shown for clarity:









As you can see, there is total clearance for the launcher flipper.


----------



## x1jett

Beastmaster - this is awesome! I'm picking up the parts today.

L.I. Archer - Great job on the modifications! 

I was considering a Hooter Shooter, I really want to know if my bow is tuned well. You guys just saved me a ton of cash. 

Thanks gentlemen!


----------



## mathewskiller

Very cool


----------



## jim p

I have made a box of wood which surrounds the two tubes of the stand. This box will slide along the tubes and keep the release very solidly mounted if things work right. I will post pictures if this thing works like I want.


----------



## jlnel

just a post to say, NICE JOB!!, and so i can find it again when im ready to build!!


----------



## Bowman Dan

Nice


----------



## jlnel

id like to see someone mount a press to this.. (maybe a saw too) should be able to, cant wait to build mine


----------



## straddleridge

Shot mine for the first time today. Mine still needs a lot of work but I couldn't wait to try it out. In garage - hits same hole at 15 feet. Want to make micro adjust sights by moving hand. I am a little concerned about extension holding bow - probably will put a 1/4" bolt through it. I bolted down winch as described by LIArcher. I have only drawn 50# at this time.


----------



## ellyka112

hrchdog said:


> I will be making one of these Friday!!!!!!!


Cool. Post pics - I'd love to see if there's any other variations that could be created from the Ryobi stand.


----------



## L.I.Archer

hunt123 said:


> A few questions:
> 1) Did you just use a hand drill on the 1 3/4" chrome tube? I assume you hit it with a punch first? It looks like it would be a little rough to drill without a drill press.
> 2) Is the 1" tube conduit?
> 
> I'm also trying to figure out how to make adjustable points that touch the riser so the bow's bubble will stay centered when the stand is on uneven or sloped ground. Pretty important if you don't have an indoor range.


1) On the smaller tube, I used a drill press to drill through both sides. I used a drill press vise to hold the tube in place.
2) I'm not sure if the 1" tube is conduit. It had a pretty thick wall and a 3 ft. section of it was laying around the shop and I cut off 6" of it.

One I positioned the tube onto the 2" tube with duct tape, used the pre-drilled holes as a guide to drill holes through the 2" tube. Then I used two 1/4" x 4" bolts and 2 nuts locked together to secure the 1" tube to the 2" tube. Then I took 9/16" drill bit and went into the u-bolt holes and tapped a hole in the 2" tube so I could shove the entire length of the threaded portion into the holes up to the bent part.

As for getting the bow level on uneven ground, you could install leveling feet at the bottom of the legs so you can adjust the level to a certain degree.


----------



## Rock Steady

The cheapest I can find the Ryobi Stand in Australia is $199AU about $210US, any ideas where someone could mail order one from the States?


----------



## skynight

So here's my idea after looking over the stand: Going to attach the bow as per LIArcher. On the other TBar I am going to install a vertical eyebolt. I will run the winch rope through the eyebolt. With the release attached to the rope, I should be able to move the eyebolt to the back of the release at full draw and affix the tbar in position. This should allow complete repeatability shot to shot once set for the bow being shot. I'll post up how it goes but it will be a few days. I don't think the hardware stores are open tommorrow.


----------



## straddleridge

I demonstrated my ryobi robo shooter to my wife. Pointed out the hole in the target and then shot. Arrow hit the same hole. Wife says "are you going to take that thing out into the woods hunting with you?" Told her no. She says "Then what good is it?" I gave up.


----------



## Christopher67

That thing is sweet! Nice job! :thumbs_up


----------



## jim p

Skynight, I though about doing what you are wanting to do with the other T bar and an I bolt. I don't think this will work because the extension tube is not long enough. It may work if you have a short draw. Take a few measurements and if it will work you will be in business.


----------



## Beastmaster

Rock Steady said:


> The cheapest I can find the Ryobi Stand in Australia is $199AU about $210US, any ideas where someone could mail order one from the States?


You're paying far more in shipping than buying it locally. Shipping my in-laws' Christmas stuff from Phoenix, Arizona to a suburb outside of Sydney is expensive - a 14 pound box cost me nearly 60 bucks USD.


----------



## skynight

jim p said:


> Skynight, I though about doing what you are wanting to do with the other T bar and an I bolt. I don't think this will work because the extension tube is not long enough. It may work if you have a short draw. Take a few measurements and if it will work you will be in business.


I measured it. Should be a couple inches to spare. If you have a 30" draw you only need 28.5 inches behind the grip. I have a 28.5 draw so only need 27", plus D Loop, plus release head. I'll post pics if it works.


----------



## hunt123

L.I.Archer said:


> 1) On the smaller tube, I used a drill press to drill through both sides. I used a drill press vise to hold the tube in place.
> 2) I'm not sure if the 1" tube is conduit. It had a pretty thick wall and a 3 ft. section of it was laying around the shop and I cut off 6" of it.
> 
> One I positioned the tube onto the 2" tube with duct tape, used the pre-drilled holes as a guide to drill holes through the 2" tube. Then I used two 1/4" x 4" bolts and 2 nuts locked together to secure the 1" tube to the 2" tube. Then I took 9/16" drill bit and went into the u-bolt holes and tapped a hole in the 2" tube so I could shove the entire length of the threaded portion into the holes up to the bent part.
> 
> As for getting the bow level on uneven ground, you could install leveling feet at the bottom of the legs so you can adjust the level to a certain degree.


That's REALLY helpful on the drilling process! Thank you! Leveling feet, or maybe just shoving some flat rocks then shims underneath. But it would be a pretty cool modification to have like maybe roundheaded bolts on each side of the riser and be able to screw them in or out to tilt the riser. Don't know if I explained it clearly enough. My brain's working on how to do it though.


----------



## hunt123

Rock Steady said:


> The cheapest I can find the Ryobi Stand in Australia is $199AU about $210US, any ideas where someone could mail order one from the States?


Now that this thread got going and we can see what can be done with the Ryobi stand, I think nearly any miter saw stand could work. You might have to hang a cement block on it if it doesn't weight very much, or you might have to make some other small modification, but the principle would be the same. I'd look at what you can find locally and with the pics in this thread in mind, see if your local stand could work.


----------



## Rick9

First - THANK YOU to Beastmaster!!!!

Here are a couple of pics of how I have mine set up.
Modifications from what has been discussed are:
- Doweling across the front of the front tube instead of pipe to go in the bow grip - can't see it here, but its bolted on the same way as the pipe and then has the bent U bolt through it.
- In order to not have to extend the bar all the way out (balance), and be able to fine tune aiming - I U bolted on a cross bar and then attached the other Ryobi fitting. On top of the tube is a fairlead from the local sailboat shop.
- The winch isn't the best, but it was what I had and it works fine. The cross pieces that hold the winch on is secured with a U bolt rather than the flange bolted thru the tubes.
Been fun to build and use as a draw board. When this latest snowstorm stops I'll go pick up a trigger release (I shoot a thumb) and try it out.


----------



## peregrine82

Just picked up 2 of these stands at Home Depot. They are $99.99 each. Our friend in Oz is getting ripped for his. My friend and I are going to build 2 of these and will incorporate all the good ideas already mentioned as well as some ideas we have as well. He is a tool maker and machinist so hopefully ours will come out pretty sweet. For those making these, a Hooter shooter is primarily for tuning arrows, not the bow. Even an out of tune bow will shoot to the same hole with matched arrows. If you double your shooter as a draw board then you can tune your bow with it.


----------



## Rock Steady

hunt123 said:


> Now that this thread got going and we can see what can be done with the Ryobi stand, I think nearly any miter saw stand could work. You might have to hang a cement block on it if it doesn't weight very much, or you might have to make some other small modification, but the principle would be the same. I'd look at what you can find locally and with the pics in this thread in mind, see if your local stand could work.


I have just come home from the local hardware shop and I am eyeing off a larger Ryobi stand that potentially could handle string manufacturing as well.

I found one the same as yours on Flebay but am waiting to see if he will freight it to me.

I also emailed Home Depo but they have not replied yet.

Michael


----------



## jim p

Well I see that I need to scrap my wood box. I need to go and get some U bolts. How is the T bar closest to the winch connected to the square metal tube? Some close up pictures of the T bar with the cable going over it would be helpful to see exactly what you are doing.


----------



## Rick9

jim p said:


> Well I see that I need to scrap my wood box. I need to go and get some U bolts. How is the T bar closest to the winch connected to the square metal tube? Some close up pictures of the T bar with the cable going over it would be helpful to see exactly what you are doing.


Here you go - the U bolts go through the square tube
View attachment 942435
View attachment 942436


----------



## easyeriq

I was looking at one of these stands for its intended purpose. May have to change plans


----------



## NGONYAMA

Ryobi must be looking into the sales figures .Through the roof.


----------



## Beastmaster

Actually I'm afraid they are going to be discontinued, hence the lowering of it's price to 79 dollars USD.


----------



## skynight

Rick9 said:


> Here you go - the U bolts go through the square tube
> View attachment 942435
> View attachment 942436


This is basically what I plan to do. I like the idea of moving it back, solves some space issues. Did the extra square tubing come from the other extension leg or did you buy it somewhere? 
Also, I'm assuming the wood platform is to place the winch inline with the drawing plane - correct?

Thanks for the pics.

Where the heck do I buy a fairlead on the Colorado prairie?


----------



## Rick9

skynight said:


> This is basically what I plan to do. I like the idea of moving it back, solves some space issues. Did the extra square tubing come from the other extension leg or did you buy it somewhere? Thanks for the pics.
> 
> Where the heck do you buy a fairlead on the Colorado prairie?


I got the extra tubing from the local Metal Supermarket - I had to do a little bit of filing to the Ryobi box fitting to get it to fit.
Fairlead - there are probably some folks who sail on lakes your area, and a supply store around somewhere, or just mail order from West Marine?


----------



## flyboy9994

Unbelievable... I just did a search for "drawboard" and ended up at this thread. Never dreamed I could actually build an affordable shooter/drawboard combination... Simply brilliant. Going to HomeDepot/Harbor Freight tomorrow. Other than the archery shop, these are my next 2 favorite stores anyway!!

Thanks Beastmaster!!


----------



## Beastmaster

Get a fairlead from a 4x4 or ATV shop. 




skynight said:


> This is basically what I plan to do. I like the idea of moving it back, solves some space issues. Did the extra square tubing come from the other extension leg or did you buy it somewhere?
> Also, I'm assuming the wood platform is to place the winch inline with the drawing plane - correct?
> 
> Thanks for the pics.
> 
> Where the heck do I buy a fairlead on the Colorado prairie?


----------



## Beastmaster

flyboy9994 said:


> Unbelievable... I just did a search for "drawboard" and ended up at this thread. Never dreamed I could actually build an affordable shooter/drawboard combination... Simply brilliant. Going to HomeDepot/Harbor Freight tomorrow. Other than the archery shop, these are my next 2 favorite stores anyway!!
> 
> Thanks Beastmaster!!


No problem! Getting it on Black Friday, well, you're a braver man than I.


----------



## jim p

Rick9, you are fast. I go out to look at and ponder about my shooter and I come back and you already have the pictures up. Thanks.

I have another picture request. I would like to see how you have your release attached to the winch rope and I would like to know what type release that you are using. I initially tested mine with a short n sweet but I want to find a cheap release to permanently mount to the machine.


----------



## muskeg

jim p said:


> I am going to use a worm gear winch. I would like some suggestions on how I can fill the spool of the winch to make it wind up the cable faster. I think the spool center is around 2" in diameter and the outside of the spool is around 4" in diameter. If I can make the inside of the spool about 3 1/2" in diameter the winch will take up cable much faster. I may be able to just take a bunch of wooden dowels and tape them to the center spool and then wind the cable over the dowels. Does anyone have any better ideas?


Maybe remove handle and use a cordless impact or something to wind the worm gear.


----------



## jim p

I just filled the spool with wooden dowels and then used duct tape to hold them in place. So that part is working fine. I might want to use a cordless drill to wind the winch a little faster but it takes a little torque to move the handle when the bow hits peak weight.

Rick9, I am thinking about mounting the back T bar like you have. I am thinking though that I want the U bolts that hold the bar to the stand to be inverted so that I can put some wing nuts on them. This way I can use the T bar as a stop for the arrow release. I will reposition the T bar as required for different bows and then all I have to do is wind the release back until it touches the T bar and it will be in the firing position. I am also thinking of just drilling a hole through the T bar and not using a fitting for the cable to pass through. This should help with keeping the release very solid through out the shooting process. The final setup for this will be determined by which model release I end up using.

This post is just getting better and better. I had to go back and read the entire thread again just to see if I was remembering everything that had been posted.


----------



## peregrine82

skynight said:


> This is basically what I plan to do. I like the idea of moving it back, solves some space issues. Did the extra square tubing come from the other extension leg or did you buy it somewhere?
> Also, I'm assuming the wood platform is to place the winch inline with the drawing plane - correct?
> 
> Thanks for the pics.
> 
> Where the heck do I buy a fairlead on the Colorado prairie?


 I would think a threaded eyebolt through the round stock and a washer and nut on the top and bottom would do the same job.


----------



## flyboy9994

Beastmaster said:


> No problem! Getting it on Black Friday, well, you're a braver man than I.


OH DAMN.... I forgot it was Black Friday today.. Wish me luck as I would not normally even leave the house on black friday but I NEED this device so I'm going to brave the bloodthirsty holiday shopping maniacs. Wish me luck... I'm going to need it!!

Also, have some ideas about the bow "hand" part as I'm also shooting a Destroyer with the QAD rest. Photo's to come soon.


----------



## flyboy9994

Whew... survived Black Friday!!

Got the Ryobi miter stand on sale for $79.99 and found the winch at Harbor Freight for $29 as you stated. Guess I know what I'm doing today!! Will post pics later.


----------



## Rick9

jim p said:


> I have another picture request. I would like to see how you have your release attached to the winch rope and I would like to know what type release that you are using. I initially tested mine with a short n sweet but I want to find a cheap release to permanently mount to the machine.


Jim, we are in the same boat on the release. I shoot a thumb release, and will have to go and buy a trigger. So any suggestions on a cheap and consistent release would be appreciated.


----------



## Rick9

jim p said:


> Rick9, I am thinking about mounting the back T bar like you have. I am thinking though that I want the U bolts that hold the bar to the stand to be inverted so that I can put some wing nuts on them. This way I can use the T bar as a stop for the arrow release. I will reposition the T bar as required for different bows and then all I have to do is wind the release back until it touches the T bar and it will be in the firing position. I am also thinking of just drilling a hole through the T bar and not using a fitting for the cable to pass through. This should help with keeping the release very solid through out the shooting process. The final setup for this will be determined by which model release I end up using.


Using the U bolts the cross bar can be on the bottom or the top, whichever is needed for sighting. And, as you say, can be moved to any position you want without drilling more holes.

As far as the fairlead goes, I was after something that we just slightly larger than the rope, and symetrical (the eye bolts I had weren't). That way I can easily raise the pull rope or lower it for sighting.


----------



## jim p

Rick9 said:


> Using the U bolts the cross bar can be on the bottom or the top, whichever is needed for sighting. And, as you say, can be moved to any position you want without drilling more holes.
> 
> As far as the fairlead goes, I was after something that we just slightly larger than the rope, and symetrical (the eye bolts I had weren't). That way I can easily raise the pull rope or lower it for sighting.


It all sounds good.

Maybe someone can suggest a release for us to use. I want to attach the release head directly on the end of a 3/16' steel cable. I have seen some old releases that seemed to be attached this way but my memory is not good enough to remember the name of the release. If I could stick the cable inside the back of the release head and then tighten down a couple of set screws it just wouldn't get any better.

I measured the square tubing and it seems to be 1 3/16" wide. Does anyone know if this can be picked up at home depot?


----------



## Beastmaster

jim p said:


> It all sounds good.
> 
> Maybe someone can suggest a release for us to use. I want to attach the release head directly on the end of a 3/16' steel cable. I have seen some old releases that seemed to be attached this way but my memory is not good enough to remember the name of the release. If I could stick the cable inside the back of the release head and then tighten down a couple of set screws it just wouldn't get any better.
> 
> I measured the square tubing and it seems to be 1 3/16" wide. Does anyone know if this can be picked up at home depot?


I used a 20 dollar TruFire Patriot. It has a bolt end so that you can attach it to something else.


----------



## Fleahop

Rick9 said:


> Jim, we are in the same boat on the release. I shoot a thumb release, and will have to go and buy a trigger. So any suggestions on a cheap and consistent release would be appreciated.


I went to the local pro shop and ask if they had any old cobra releases. They did and I got one for 5 bucks it was used and did not have a strap or handle but guess what I didn't need one. Rigged it up now I am collecting the other parts. Wish me luck

Thanks, Beastmaster this is a great idea.
Flea


----------



## zimtown

curious about the flex on the extension arm. 

When the arm is fully extended (which I assume you extend as needed, specific to draw length), is there any deflection from the weight of the bow? and does the extension arm flex when the bow is shot? basically pre thru post shot.


----------



## rackmasterlgw

Beastmaster,
Thanks for the great idea and parts list.Been thinking about this project for awhile and you just made it a lot easier.

RM


----------



## Tunaboy

*Shooter Saftey*

Not to be a worry wart but I am going to pin the long extesnion arm to the base of the unit. I am worried about the set screw slipping. I am also going to do this to the black bracket that holds the bow in place. Again I don't trust the set screw. The one that pins the black bracket can be permanant. The pin that controls the extension rod is different. I plan to use a 1/4" detent pin about 2" long. This has a ring on the top to make it easier to pull and slide the arm all the way back in. Has anyone figured out to remove the long extension rods?? I took out the 2 screws on the end of the brackst and that did not work.
I would urge everyone that can please consider pining the above 2 parts. No need to have a set screw slide and break something or hurt someone.

Thx


----------



## Lone Bow

tagged-


----------



## jim p

I went by home depot to pick up some more nuts & bolts and the piece of square tubing. They wanted $15 for the tubing so I will be using wood. I will be heading out to the work shop to get a piece of wood and the hand plane and have a little fun.


----------



## Tunaboy

*Tube*

I found solid tube and the one with the holes in it. It was 11.99 for no holes and $2 more for holes. The one with the holes was plated and heaver guage. I too thought about wood but how do you slide it in and out to line up with the center line of the bow? I also bought a turnbuckel for fine adjustment. Let us know how the wood works. I would be happy to use wood and return the steel tube.


----------



## skynight

Tunaboy said:


> Not to be a worry wart but I am going to pin the long extesnion arm to the base of the unit. I am worried about the set screw slipping. I am also going to do this to the black bracket that holds the bow in place. Again I don't trust the set screw. The one that pins the black bracket can be permanant. The pin that controls the extension rod is different. I plan to use a 1/4" detent pin about 2" long. This has a ring on the top to make it easier to pull and slide the arm all the way back in. Has anyone figured out to remove the long extension rods?? I took out the 2 screws on the end of the brackst and that did not work.
> I would urge everyone that can please consider pining the above 2 parts. No need to have a set screw slide and break something or hurt someone.
> 
> Thx


I plan to pin the extension bar also. The black bracket I think I will put a small U-bolt behind - should keep it from sliding and still allow it to be folded up. Got mine working today, only shot my 25# genesis out of it so far. Only real issue so far is keeping the bow vertical. I put pipe insulation around the ubolt, tightening up the bow holder part of the system and that helped but not 100%. Going to try to add a bungee like the original plans and see if it fixes it. For a release I used winch rope to a screw closed carabiner, then closed end turnbuckle, then a part from an old bowmaster that let me screw the release head into it. The turnbuckle lets me fine tune the draw between winch clicks. The carabiner is so I can swap all that out for a hooked end turnbuckle and scale for drawboard work. All that works great.
Perfect timing, I have a set of shafts to be cut and fletched next week. I plan to mark them with my spine tester for stiff side, cut to length, square, install pin nock adapters and inserts. Then I want to shoot them all bareshaft with this thing and turn the nocks so they all hit together and then fletch.
Who know setting up arrows could take so long?


----------



## jim p

I just finished up with the piece of wood. I am going to use this piece of wood for the part that u bolts to the two round tubes of the stand and then the clamp and t bar clamp onto the wood. Like in the picture above that Rick9 showed. It is a lot of work to make the part out of wood by hand. If you had a band saw, all you need to do is make a piece of wood 3 cm x 3 cm square and a couple of feet long.


----------



## Tunaboy

*Bow Mount*

Anyone consider how to mount a Hoyt with the Tec riser?


----------



## 13bonatter69

Ok guys, dont get mad at me, but why is a machanical shooter a need. What does it allow you to do, work wise on your bow. I can see the benefit of a draw board for checking cam lean, and timing and such. I guess I just dont understand what the benefit is to haveing a shooter like this. Please fill me in on what the need is please.


----------



## Beastmaster

Tunaboy said:


> Anyone consider how to mount a Hoyt with the Tec riser?


The first pics show my kid's PSE Chaos, my Athens Exceed, and a Hoyt Maxxis 35. Zero issues.


----------



## Beastmaster

13bonatter69 said:


> Ok guys, dont get mad at me, but why is a machanical shooter a need. What does it allow you to do, work wise on your bow. I can see the benefit of a draw board for checking cam lean, and timing and such. I guess I just dont understand what the benefit is to haveing a shooter like this. Please fill me in on what the need is please.


There are a wide variety of reasons. 

I have used this for:

1) arrow testing. If the arrows are not spined correctly, they will fly different. 

2) answering the question that "this bow can't shoot worth a darn". 

3) nock tuning. 

4) paper tuning 

I'm sure I'll think of more. But I've used this for these things plus what you've mentioned.


----------



## peregrine82

Mechanical shooter is used to tune arrows, not bows. The beauty of this stand is it allows for a mechanical shooter and a draw board so both can be done easily. Beastmaster came up with a winner here. Like all DIY'ers this stand and it's configurations are continually evolving.


----------



## Bowbuster123

Tunaboy said:


> Anyone consider how to mount a Hoyt with the Tec riser?


I am working on this one and will post pics in a couple of days once I get it figured out to the best of my abilities.
This is assuming I ever figure out how to post a pic on here.lol


----------



## Trouble Shooter

Tagged this will be on my to-do list


----------



## 13bonatter69

thank you guys, I understand now


----------



## hunt123

Tunaboy said:


> I found solid tube and the one with the holes in it. It was 11.99 for no holes and $2 more for holes. The one with the holes was plated and heaver guage. I too thought about wood but how do you slide it in and out to line up with the center line of the bow? I also bought a turnbuckel for fine adjustment. Let us know how the wood works. I would be happy to use wood and return the steel tube.


I used a piece of wood for the crosspiece (see post 165) that holds the 2nd T-Bar up. Works just fine. I used pine which is a little soft, but OK. I spent a little time getting it to fit exact. My first one was about 1/16" narrow and flopped around in the hole.

I was surprised about how easily the T-Bar drilled. You need to "ping" a starter dent in it, then I used a small bit first followed by the correct sized one. No problem at all.


----------



## hunt123

13bonatter69 said:


> thank you guys, I understand now


Another one:
340 spine arrows go from 56 to 65 lbs on Easton's chart. That's a really wide range. The arrows a person has might shoot best within a 1 or 2 pound range within that broad range. Say from 61 to 62 lbs. It's much more accurate to test groupings at different poundages if you have something like the Ryobi Shooter. Without that you wind up testing the person as well as the poundage. Especially if you're testing at maybe 50 yds or more.

Mine's not done yet, but if it's going to be one hole at 50 yds, I'm not interested in a pile of Robin Hoods when I'm testing groups so I'm going to tape a scale on the second T-Bar which will allow me to move the release in or out by a measured 1/16" or so. 

I could walk all the way out and retrieve the one arrow each time but if I can "program" a small deviation for each shot, then I can shoot 5 or 6 without tearing them up. A lot quicker and easier I'd think. But we'll see. Maybe there's more to this process than is apparent by just thinking about it.


----------



## WDMJR3DBOWGUY

Now Ive gotta rearrange my shop again


----------



## pasteve1976

Bonus you can use it for what it was originally designed for if you need to!! Well done sir!


----------



## Tunaboy

*Hoyt model*

I am working on a simple mount to work with the Tec risers. I know that the round tube works but I would like a little more room. When done I will post.


----------



## hunt123

Has anyone figured out a good way to aim it?

If your backstop is big enough it's not a problem, but if you set it outside and drag an average sized target 20 - 30 yds away, how do you keep from losing arrows until you get the range right?


----------



## Bowbuster123

hunt123 said:


> Has anyone figured out a good way to aim it?
> 
> If your backstop is big enough it's not a problem, but if you set it outside and drag an average sized target 20 - 30 yds away, how do you keep from losing arrows until you get the range right?


Just look threw your peep and line up the coresponding sight pin. Just like you would if you were shooting the bow.


----------



## AR&BOW

Bowbuster123 said:


> Just look threw your peep and line up the coresponding sight pin. Just like you would if you were shooting the bow.


You could also lay a laser pointer on top of the arrow. I don't have one so I will have to use your peep idea. 

Was planning on getting one this week, but it is going to be tough financially. Have to see what tomorrows paycheck looks like with the OT.


----------



## hunt123

Bowbuster123 said:


> Just look threw your peep and line up the coresponding sight pin. Just like you would if you were shooting the bow.


I guess you're right. All the Ryobi Shooter is doing is making sure everything is exactly the same for each shot. If your pin(s) is (are) sighted in you should be good. 

So I could put my target at 70 yds, slide my pin to the 70 yd mark, look through the peep, get everything lined up and fire. Out that far, I don't know if the front T will raise far enough. Might have to put bricks under the front legs. Maybe it would be better to try 40 yds first.


----------



## WhitBri

Looks like I have something to build


----------



## Rob D

Thanks for posting this I will be making one in the next week .


----------



## GlennMac

Some questions, what is the main aim for using this machine ? Once your bow is right does it need further adjusting to suit the shooter and would it be just sight adjustments ? Thanks


----------



## larryp

Great job.We have several dewalt and ryobi stands on the job.I think this is so simple Monday thru Friday miter stand.Saturday and Sunday draw board.Thanks


----------



## L.I.Archer

GlennMac said:


> Some questions, what is the main aim for using this machine ? Once your bow is right does it need further adjusting to suit the shooter and would it be just sight adjustments ? Thanks


I use the one I made in the shop only to paper tune bows without the human factor. Once the bow is shooting bullet holes, it's all up to the user to adjust his sights to his preferred yardages.


----------



## GlennMac

Is that all it's good for ? Anything else ?


----------



## L.I.Archer

GlennMac said:


> Is that all it's good for ? Anything else ?


It's also a drawboard to check cam timing at full draw. Peep rotation is another thing you can check at full draw.


----------



## GlennMac

I have a draw board already and thinking of making one of these, using the winch I have on my draw board. Just wanted to see what the advantages were of the shooting machine.


----------



## hunt123

GlennMac said:


> I have a draw board already and thinking of making one of these, using the winch I have on my draw board. Just wanted to see what the advantages were of the shooting machine.


There are a number of answers to this further back in the thread.


----------



## lucasm

This is great soon as i get time will make one


----------



## rutnstrut

This is awesome and I will be building one. The only question I have is when the release is triggered does the strap/cable on the winch have a recoil or slap back from the tension being released?


----------



## jim p

At full draw you are only holding around 20 lbs of draw force. Therefore when the release fires it pretty much just falls down just like you were holding it in your hand and turned it lose. There is no noticeable recoil.


----------



## Beastmaster

rutnstrut said:


> This is awesome and I will be building one. The only question I have is when the release is triggered does the strap/cable on the winch have a recoil or slap back from the tension being released?





jim p said:


> At full draw you are only holding around 20 lbs of draw force. Therefore when the release fires it pretty much just falls down just like you were holding it in your hand and turned it lose. There is no noticeable recoil.


Yep. It just drops like a stone. Hence why I quit using my wife's Carter Quickie 1 and went to a 20 dollar TruFire Patriot.


----------



## MightyElkHntr

Sweet! Heading to pick up parts in the morning... well, probably in the afternoon, but still going tomorrow! Thanks Beast!


----------



## GlennMac

Rock Steady said:


> The cheapest I can find the Ryobi Stand in Australia is $199AU about $210US, any ideas where someone could mail order one from the States?


Thats the same price I got. Getting something that heavy shipped would cost a fortune, I'm just going to get it and give it ago.


----------



## Rock Steady

GlennMac said:


> Thats the same price I got. Getting something that heavy shipped would cost a fortune, I'm just going to get it and give it ago.


Ditto, I will probably pick one up this weekend.


----------



## TAYLOR CO.

Thanks for sharing this, I like it. May have to build me one!


----------



## L.I.Archer

Okay, having had plenty of different bow setups to play with here at the shop, I have modified my bow grip bar so it will accommodate the QAD HD rest as well, for both left- and right-handed models.

























I took the original 3/4" dia. steel conduit (I mistakenly called it out as a 1" dia. in the previous post) and notched out the two sides that would interfere with the HD's thumb lever. The previous picture I had showed the smaller thumb lever on the LD model and I figured it would work with the HD model, but I was wrong. 

I also beefed up the middle of the 3/4" conduit with duct tape to fit the inner diameter of the 1" pvc pipe snugl over it. I used Windex to slip it on. Then I took another piece of 1" pvc pipe and cut out 1/4" along one side and I snapped it right over the first pvc pipe. This gave me enough clearance for all of the QAD rests, all of the Whisker Biscuits and possibly any other rest that comes along.

The bow in the last picture (a Strother Infiniti) is perfectly vertical when it came to full draw. Same goes for the Parker Inferno, Bowtech Destroyer 350, etc.


----------



## DenCMSC

Awesome project, I'll be building one of these soon.


----------



## petrey10

how do you get it perfectly vertical? is it a matter of just leveling the winch with the bow? How bout a video of it in action?


----------



## Beastmaster

petrey10 said:


> how do you get it perfectly vertical? is it a matter of just leveling the winch with the bow? How bout a video of it in action?


You level the strap with the bow.


----------



## hunt123

Beastmaster said:


> You level the strap with the bow.


I'm lost on this one. Could you explain? So if I'm half a bubble off, how do I get it centered?


----------



## skynight

hunt123 said:


> I'm lost on this one. Could you explain? So if I'm half a bubble off, how do I get it centered?


I'm lost on it as well. At 10 yards I am not even close to repeatable one hole performance, with the same arrow. I beleive it's because the bow is canting differently for each shot. My attach point needs work. I think I might drill the bolt holes all the way through and use a leather strap with two bolts/wingnuts.


----------



## L.I.Archer

When you draw the bow back, the flat part of the grip automatically flattens out against the flat part of the bar that the grip sits on. You might need to tweak the levelness of the bow from shot to shot, but overall, the bow comes up vertical at full draw. Repeatable performance requires you to sight through the peep for every shot at the same point of aim for each shot. I don't use the shooter to sight in bows here at the shop; I use it to paper tune a bow at 3 and 6 feet. Then I take the bow out to our one-lane range to get the arrow on paper at 20 yards before we hand it off to the customer and he'll do the final sight-in, because everybody anchors and shoots different.


----------



## sagecreek

Great thread.


----------



## flyboy9994

Dang, Dang, Dang... got my Ryobi Shooter rig together and now I discovered that my cams are NOT timed like I thought they were. Draw stop pins are definitely not hitting at the same time... Jeeezzz, time to re-tune!!

I do really like this tool but I need to make some improvements to the bow handle holder as my bow wants to lean all over the place. Going to try L.I.Archer's method. Looks like the best bet so far.


----------



## Beastmaster

Bear in mind this with any mechanical shooter:

Out of time bow and properly spined arrow = repeatable same hole performance. 

In time bow and improper spined arrow = erratic arrow performance. 

In time bow and proper spined arrow = same hole performance. 

Out of time bow and improper spined arrow = holy crap, where's my arrow? performance.


----------



## petrey10

ok i get how you leveled it but when we shoot we rarely draw perfectly level... I thought I read somewhere we you want the winch to be about 3'' higher than the grip in order to make it more like our draw... if that makes sense...


----------



## hunt123

Beastmaster said:


> Bear in mind this with any mechanical shooter:
> 
> Out of time bow and properly spined arrow = repeatable same hole performance.
> 
> In time bow and improper spined arrow = erratic arrow performance.
> 
> In time bow and proper spined arrow = same hole performance.
> 
> Out of time bow and improper spined arrow = holy crap, where's my arrow? performance.


Very interesting. Improperly spined could mean off by only a few pounds on DW plus the cock feather could be on the wrong side of the spine.


----------



## sjb3

*Triple duty Ryobi stand*

Got my Ryobi stand shipped to my door for $99. Closest HD was 2 hr or more drive. I love the stand, I have my EZ press mounted to it right now. Still gotta get my winch and make a shooting machine. 

Also I'm going to have a friend build a hickory table top (46 1/2" x 24") to use as a desk for making arrows and working on my bow.

I think it will be sweet. When I want to work on my bow, my press will be mounted on one side and the shooting machine/ draw board on the other. When I'm done working on my bow I'll put the table top on and have a nice computer/work bench. Thinking about getting another set of bar clamps that way it would be more of a quick change. I'll post a few pics when I'm done.

*******??? maybe, lol


----------



## Beastmaster

Beastmaster said:


> Bear in mind this with any mechanical shooter:
> 
> Out of time bow and properly spined arrow = repeatable same hole performance.
> 
> In time bow and improper spined arrow = erratic arrow performance.
> 
> In time bow and proper spined arrow = same hole performance.
> 
> Out of time bow and improper spined arrow = holy crap, where's my arrow? performance.





hunt123 said:


> Very interesting. Improperly spined could mean off by only a few pounds on DW plus the cock feather could be on the wrong side of the spine.


Yep. That's why a good program like OT2 and others makes a huge difference. All the machine will do is take the human element out of the equation.

-Steve


----------



## sjb3

Heres a winch for $20.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200395357_200395357


----------



## jim p

I need someone to come up with a great holder for the bow. The best that I could get my shooter to do was 1/2" group at 20 yards. I was shooting outside and there was a little wind. We need a way to have the bow return to the exact same position for each shot.

One tip. Make sure that you have your release set as sensitive as possible. A release that has a stiff trigger will cause you to have left and right hits. I had a spread of about 2" to begin with. I started lightening the trigger up and the group got tighter. I need to get the backstop close to the bow so that I can adjust the trigger to the point that it is firing during the draw and then adjusting the trigger just enough to stop the auto firing.

I fired 4 different arrows and they all touched each others hole in the target. So it looks like my arrows are flying fairly good.

One other thing. If you set up outside on the dirt, it takes several shots for the legs to settle into the ground and then the repeatability increases.


----------



## skynight

jim p said:


> I need someone to come up with a great holder for the bow. The best that I could get my shooter to do was 1/2" group at 20 yards. I was shooting outside and there was a little wind. We need a way to have the bow return to the exact same position for each shot.
> 
> One tip. Make sure that you have your release set as sensitive as possible. A release that has a stiff trigger will cause you to have left and right hits. I had a spread of about 2" to begin with. I started lightening the trigger up and the group got tighter. I need to get the backstop close to the bow so that I can adjust the trigger to the point that it is firing during the draw and then adjusting the trigger just enough to stop the auto firing.
> 
> I fired 4 different arrows and they all touched each others hole in the target. So it looks like my arrows are flying fairly good.
> 
> One other thing. If you set up outside on the dirt, it takes several shots for the legs to settle into the ground and then the repeatability increases.


I built a different bow holder and still couldn't get it to be consistent. I ran 5" bolts through the back of the tbar and the 3/4 inch conduit, bent them parallel to the ground, put bushings on and padded them to create a cradle. I then put a nylon strap with wingnuts across the front of the bow handle - didn't help. I then put a padded metal strap across the front - this caused the bow to ride up in the cradle and didnt help either.
On a positive note, it is a nice drawboard.


----------



## Brent13

I found my Ryobi stand at a south Denver Home Depot today, $79 on sale. Looked for a winch there also, but no dice. I hope to have mine put together in the next week. My intentions are to just build a draw board, no shooting machine, but who knows, the shooting machine aspect look interesting also. Thanks for a great thread....

Brent


----------



## easyeriq

Brent13 said:


> I found my Ryobi stand at a south Denver Home Depot today, $79 on sale. Looked for a winch there also, but no dice. I hope to have mine put together in the next week. My intentions are to just build a draw board, no shooting machine, but who knows, the shooting machine aspect look interesting also. Thanks for a great thread....
> 
> Brent


If all you are going to want is a draw board, I don't think you need the stand. Just a thought


----------



## jim p

I am thinking about using a bungee cord instead of the bolts to hold the bow in place. I am going to run the bungee cord through the holes which was intended for the bolts. This should allow me to use double sided tape or something along this line to keep the bow in place.

A half inch group at 20 yards is not too bad. I just want to see if I can get the arrows in the same hole.


----------



## Rick9

jim p said:


> I am thinking about using a bungee cord instead of the bolts to hold the bow in place. I am going to run the bungee cord through the holes which was intended for the bolts. This should allow me to use double sided tape or something along this line to keep the bow in place.
> 
> A half inch group at 20 yards is not too bad. I just want to see if I can get the arrows in the same hole.


One thing to think about is the arrows you are using.
I haven't got mine shooting yet, due to weather - but i did check some of the video on the hooter shooter.
If you are shooting the same arrow, then getting it in the same hole, shot after shot, at 20 yds seems like it should be possible.
If you are shooting different arrows, then you might consider turning the nock to get the arrows to group better.
I expect the goal of getting different arrows in the same hole would only be possible with very good arrows.

For testing to see if the bow mount is the problem, seems like using the same arrow is the way to go.
Just an idea


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## Tunaboy

*Shooter*

I just got mine working. I need to add the T bar to get the winch rope in alinement with the bow. I have built a very different bow holder. I have only shot a few times and don't have good repeatably yet. Question for those who have good accuracy: How tight is the bow straped into the bow holder? I think that my release may also be a problem. It is an old tru ball but is in excellent condition. I thought that I saw a video of a Hooter Shooter and they were using a push button set up from a camera to trigger the release. Any suggestions appreciated. By bow holder is solid and I have the Royobi pinned in place where the set screws may slip because of the pressure of drawing the bow.

Thx


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## califhuntn

I got to say that I love the creativity here. I was hoping to be able to afford a hooter shooter some day and now I can for under $200. I am a bit of an novice with archery and don't know what a "Draw Board" is or it's purpose. Can someone please help me. I know what the shooter is and what it does.

Thanks
Jeff


----------



## nuts&bolts

califhuntn said:


> I got to say that I love the creativity here. I was hoping to be able to afford a hooter shooter some day and now I can for under $200. I am a bit of an novice with archery and don't know what a "Draw Board" is or it's purpose. Can someone please help me. I know what the shooter is and what it does.
> 
> Thanks
> Jeff


Hello Jeff:

A draw board helps you hold a bow at "full draw",
so you can take your time
and get very accurate measurements
for draw length...

so you can check top cam lean angle (you want zero lean, while at full draw)...

so you can confirm that the top and bottom cams
are rotating in unison (flat section of the modules hit the cables at the same time)...

so you can take your time and measure the peep sight to arrow shaft vertical distance...

so you can measure from the peep sight to the pin on your sight (horizontal distance).


----------



## califhuntn

Thank you.


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## Tunaboy

*Shooter*

I have sot mine only 3-4 times and have had accuracy peoblems. Are most of you trying to get the bow to mount as solid as you can. I think that my bow does not come back to the same place every time. I am going to strap a cheap lazer to the frame and shoot more to see if the Royobi is staying still. Any suggestions as to the bow holder question welcomed.


----------



## meyerske

Great thread here.

Attached is a pic of the bow holder used on the Kwik-Shooter.

Some helpful info:

http://spot-hogg.com/products/hooter_shooter/index.php

_HOOTER SHOOTER INSTRUCTIONS

1. Aim the shooting arm at the target.
2. Place the bow on the Hooter Shooter grip and fasten sling to loosely hold bow with ¼" to ½" of slack. At this time, the heel feature should be totally retracted.
3. Put an arrow on the string that is marked for draw length.
4. Set winch to free wheeling mode and loosen the wing nut on slider block just enough to allow the slider block to be pushed to bow.
5. Attach the release mechanism to the bowstring duplicating the shooter as close as possible. Remember the location and manner of attachment should be precise and repeatable.
6. Set the winch to ratchet mode, crank, and draw the bowstring back until the marked draw length is achieved. Take care not to over draw the bow. If you go to far you can damage the bow and cause personal injury. Safety glasses should be worn.
7. With a pencil, mark the slide bar at the edge of the slide block nearest the winch so that the slide block can be cranked back to the same position repeatedly. Take mental note of the crank position. It should come to rest at the same spot every time also.

NEVER WALK OR POSITION BODY PARTS IN FRONT OF THE HOOTER SHOOTER AT FULL DRAW.

8. Loosen the grip clamp approximately ½ turn. Use the rod extended from the grip to orient the bow to perpendicular and tighten grip clamp. Don't touch the bow in the grip. If you touch the bow in the grip each shot, it may give you frustrating results. Set the arms on the vertical alignment gauge so the wire springs are about 1/16" from the top and bottom limb pockets. This makes for quick and easy repeat reference for the same bow position and should be monitored for each shot when desiring ultra precise results.
9. Align the sight and the peep with the target using the elevation and windage adjustment on the Hooter Shooter. If there is a need for coarse adjustments let the arrow down and make needed corrections. Relocating Hooter Shooter makes coarse horizontal adjustments. Coarse vertical adjustment can be made by removing wing nut next to winch and moving bolt to a higher or lower hole.
10. Now that the vertical alignment gauge references the vertical orientation, the draw length is marked on the slide bar of the Hooter Shooter, and the arrow is aimed at the target, we are ready to shoot an arrow. It is essential to be as exact as possible on each shot. Minor variations do matter. Monitor the vertical alignment gauge and draw the arrow in the same manner every time. If you over draw an arrow and let it down to draw length, it may hit differently than one not overdrawn.

BE CONSISTENT

In the beginning, shoot the same arrow. Not all arrows are the same and at this stage, we need to eliminate as many variables as possible. When you shoot enough times that you are confident in your ability to repeat then you are ready to start checking your other arrows and making tune up adjustments._

There is an instruction manual on the Kwik-Shooter website that may give some ideas for some modifications.

http://www.kwik-shooter.com/


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## Swampydonk

*Wow!*

I haven't been on this site for some time. I came here looking for an answer to a question I had (which I found) and stumbled upon this topic.

After reading every post and looking at every pic, looks like I have to try making one of these. I have seen many good ideas you guys have had and I think I may be able to modify some of them to get this thing working better.

I will post some pics as soon as I have worked out a few modifications and test them. Thanks a bunch to all of you.


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## Tunaboy

*Shooter*

Good news I clamped a lazer on the shooter and marked a spot on the wall where the lazer hit. Shot the shooter and when I looked the lazer dot was not where is was before. Need to weigh the unit down and try again


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## Tunaboy

*Shooter*

I added 30# of dumbells that I had in the basement and started over. First thing I noticed was that the lazer did not move from where I started and I shot the same arrow in the same hole 3 times. You might want to add some weight first before you change anything to make sure that the unit is not moving from the recoil of the bow.


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## jim p

Tunaboy, that is good news. I have shot mine quite a bit and I used the same arrow so I should have been hitting in the same hole. I was shooting outside and the legs of the stand were just on soil. I noticed that after about 20 shots the consistency started to get better. I am thinking that the legs were settling into the ground a little each shot.

So where did you put the weights? What distance were you shooting? The next time I get mine out I will stick my green laser on it and see if it is moving. Just winching the bow back could be moving the machine.

And now to poke a little fun. Your bow must be an old bow because all bow since 2005 have zero hand shock. Oh I forgot the machine doesn't have a hand to shock.


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## Beastmaster

For whatever reason, the thought of using the Ryobi Robo-Bow to do measurements for sight tapes has totally slipped my mind. Nice thinking!


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## Tunaboy

*Weights*

Jim P. old guys have old bows and yes you will not fall a sleep when shooting my bow. I have 2 15# weights hanging from the stand. 15# directly under each leg. If I did not have the cheap lazer I am not sure how I would have figured out that the stand was moving. As far as distance I don't have much in my basement but the weights are what got me to smile about this project. I just need to add the guide system so I can get the rope to pull from directly behind the bow. I can see that I am going to have fun with this new toy. Don't you love DYI stuff that saves you a ton of money. No way I would have bought one of these.


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## flyboy9994

Cool... Now I found a use for those pesky weights that I haven't touched for years. Was going to put them in storage until now. God forbid if I actually use them to get in shape!! Excellent idea for the Ryobi Shooter "stabilization system"... gotta love it. Thanks Tunaboy!!


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## peregrine82

My friend and I have been working on our adaptation of the Ryobi stand. He is the talent and I supply the odd idea. He is a tool maker and machinist so we have been able to come up with some pretty good Stuff. We have dubbed this our Ubershooter. The plan is to use this as a shooting stand, draw board. Platform for arrow saw, press and vise. We are still working on the front end and when done will put up pics. Here is what has been done so far. 




























The saw is mounted on the bar that slides to the rear. It is held on with 1/4 20 bolts with wing nuts. The press mounts on the aluminum cross blocks. The weight of the press should help with the stability.


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## Brent13

Very nice, you are thinking!!!


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## DssBB

Ich, liebe es, wenn ein Plan zusammen kommt.....der UberShooter


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## Beastmaster

DssBB said:


> Ich, liebe es, wenn ein Plan zusammen kommt.....der UberShooter


A-Team fan, eh?


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## BackcountryBull

Keep the pictures coming!!


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## Grant Cole

Hi from Australia
Beastmaster this is brilliant
I have got to try this, I will be heading down to Bunning's (our version of Home Depot) tomorrow
Thanks for the post and have fun shooting
Regards Grant Cole


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## MightyElkHntr

Could you turn the bent u-bolt in your picture (Post 227) and face it back towards the winch and have that act as the bow hand? If you slipped the ubolt around the handle of the bow, then inserted the two bent threaded ends through matching holes drilled in the T-bar of the stand, it would allow for using any rest on the market without having to make modifications to the T other than drilling holes. I will try to picture what I am referring to and post it.

I picked up the Ryobi stand and a winch, but my winch has the crank on the wrong side so I have to take it back and find one with a left-handed crank... This is great! I am really anxious to put my new DS Evo and my Supra both through the shooter - we are just getting ready to start 3-d and the second round of winter circles.


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## skynight

MightyElkHntr said:


> Could you turn the bent u-bolt in your picture (Post 227) and face it back towards the winch and have that act as the bow hand? If you slipped the ubolt around the handle of the bow, then inserted the two bent threaded ends through matching holes drilled in the T-bar of the stand, it would allow for using any rest on the market without having to make modifications to the T other than drilling holes. I will try to picture what I am referring to and post it.
> 
> I picked up the Ryobi stand and a winch, but my winch has the crank on the wrong side so I have to take it back and find one with a left-handed crank... This is great! I am really anxious to put my new DS Evo and my Supra both through the shooter - we are just getting ready to start 3-d and the second round of winter circles.


Mount the winch "backwards". If you look at all the pics, that is what people have done. I took mine apart and put the handle on the other side, but it's a waste of time.


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## L.I.Archer

MightyElkHntr said:


> Could you turn the bent u-bolt in your picture (Post 227) and face it back towards the winch and have that act as the bow hand? If you slipped the ubolt around the handle of the bow, then inserted the two bent threaded ends through matching holes drilled in the T-bar of the stand, it would allow for using any rest on the market without having to make modifications to the T other than drilling holes. I will try to picture what I am referring to and post it.
> 
> I picked up the Ryobi stand and a winch, but my winch has the crank on the wrong side so I have to take it back and find one with a left-handed crank... This is great! I am really anxious to put my new DS Evo and my Supra both through the shooter - we are just getting ready to start 3-d and the second round of winter circles.


Get a long enough U-Bolt and get it go through the top and bottom of the 2" bar and bend the U-bolt 90* back and it should work. But there won't be a flat spot for the grip to sit against and you'll probably put an indentation into the aluminum or grip from the U-bolt.


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## hunt123

skynight said:


> Mount the winch "backwards". If you look at all the pics, that is what people have done. I took mine apart and put the handle on the other side, but it's a waste of time.


Same here.


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## BackcountryBull

I mounted my winch backwards as well. But the more I think about it, the better it might be to setup the winch like Rick9 did, but maybe try somehow to use something other than wood, yet still cheap (still trying to figure that one out). So you have some freedom to move your winch right and left to get it exact, and still be able to crank the winch handle. 

I am referring to post #161.


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## springy shooter

this is such a GREAT idea! I will be building one also!


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## AJVarchery

Sticky?


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## jim p

I got to see a hooter shooter up close yesterday and I think that we can get our shooter to work. There didn't seem to be anything magic about the commercial shooter. The part that held the bow was made of a plastic like teflon and it was shaped into a v notch to hold the bow. It had a bar along the bottom of the teflon piece which could be adjusted to help hold the bow at the desired vertical angle. Or to push on the bottom of the hand grip to raise the bow or lower the bow. It had something like a camera trigger cable which fired a thumb trigger release and it had two adjusting screws so that the windage and elevation of the bow could be adjusted. I didn't try to pick it up so I don't know how heavy it was but it appeared to be lighter than our shooters so it would need to be anchored for it to work correctly.

I think that I will attempt to make the teflon piece out of wood and see if I can come up with an adjusting bar for the bottom of the grip to help hold the bow in position.


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## Tunaboy

*Shooter*

I have noticed that my winch is not repeatable. I think that the braided rope is the problem. Sometimes it winds up differently. The winch does not work with web belting. May use some steel cable that I have. I do think that it is a good idea to mark the arrow and a spot on the bow somewhere to confirm that the draw is identical every time.


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## BackcountryBull

Tunaboy said:


> I have noticed that my winch is not repeatable. I think that the braided rope is the problem. Sometimes it winds up differently. The winch does not work with web belting. May use some steel cable that I have. I do think that it is a good idea to mark the arrow and a spot on the bow somewhere to confirm that the draw is identical every time.


Are you using a turnbuckle also? It helps with micro adjustments with the winch.


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## L.I.Archer

Okay, I have to revise my bow holding U-bolt in the front. I need to get one with a longer threaded portion so I can get it through the other side of the 2" tube. It seems the older, jumpier and hand-shockier bows will pull the U-bolt right out. With a longer U-bolt going through to the other side, I can either use a wing nut to secure it, or tap a hole for a quick release kotter pin.


----------



## Beastmaster

Tunaboy said:


> I have noticed that my winch is not repeatable. I think that the braided rope is the problem. Sometimes it winds up differently. The winch does not work with web belting. May use some steel cable that I have. I do think that it is a good idea to mark the arrow and a spot on the bow somewhere to confirm that the draw is identical every time.


More reasons why I used the web belt winch.

I did a minor mod to mine the other day. I'll post pics. I ended up mounting the release onto a small metal block, which in turn is attached (via D-Loop rope) to the S-hook of the winch. 

-Steve


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## hunt123

Tunaboy said:


> I have noticed that my winch is not repeatable. I think that the braided rope is the problem. Sometimes it winds up differently. The winch does not work with web belting. May use some steel cable that I have. I do think that it is a good idea to mark the arrow and a spot on the bow somewhere to confirm that the draw is identical every time.


Run your rope through a eye (post 161). Doesn't matter how it winds, the eye will keep it in the same place. That's what I did and it works perfectly. The eye is a larger diameter than the rope/cable so you have to move your winch out or in just a little so the rope rubs on the side of the eye. I couldn't get one of those things he used so I just used an eye bolt.

Then to make a repeatable stop, put a cable clamp on your rope/cable so it contacts the eye when you're at full draw.


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## oldschoolcj5

great job .. thanks for posting!


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## jim p

Tunaboy said:


> I have noticed that my winch is not repeatable. I think that the braided rope is the problem. Sometimes it winds up differently. The winch does not work with web belting. May use some steel cable that I have. I do think that it is a good idea to mark the arrow and a spot on the bow somewhere to confirm that the draw is identical every time.


The hooter shooter used a very small steel cable. I didn't measure it but it was 1/16 to 1/8" diameter.


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## Tunaboy

*Location indicator*

Anyone have any good ideas on how to set up a positive stop or indicator to get repeatable exact draw lenghts?


----------



## Stab 'em

Tunaboy said:


> Anyone have any good ideas on how to set up a positive stop or indicator to get repeatable exact draw lenghts?


When I built my shooting machine I found that permanently marking the arrows to where they stop sliding on the arrow rest was the best way to get perfect repeatability out of drawing the machine back very time. This is because I actually pulled an additional inch of draw length past the draw stops when I anchor to shoot. I just painted an arrow with spray foot powder and drew to my anchor, let down and marked the shaft; I marked all my shafts at that length using that shaft for a guide. Then just crank the machine/bow to when the mark on the arrow meets prongs on the rest every time.

As for shooting my bow while on the machine, I stand right there with it, aligning the peep with the sight ring and target just as if I were holding the bow in hand. Then I gently squeeze off the shot. The machine makes for a very stable platform and I can make micro adjustments to the aim before releasing the arrow. I find that I make it more stable at the shot rather than jerking a rope backwards and hoping that the bow didn't move from the bull's eye when taking the shot.

My 'shooter: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1162131


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## L.I.Archer

Took the bar that comes out the back end of the shooting machine, cut out a 15" section of it, U-bolted it to the double tubes of the shooting machine and made a winch strap guide.



















The flat bar across the top of the strap comes with the U-bolt, so I put that smooth-side-down so it doesn't start fraying the strap over time. There's also just enough free play in it so the strap slides through it smoothly.

I also shortened the 2" dia. T-bar to about 5" using a circular pipe cutter that plumbers use.


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## BTruman

I'm not done assembly but this is how I plan to make fine adjustments. The winch simply floats between the square tube and the adjusting rod has a pin on the bottom going through the plate. Just one of those things I new would be useful someday.:wink:


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## BTruman

A couple more pics. I welded a small block to the winch and welded the adjuster to the block. This will give a couple inches adjustability either side of any click position on the winch.


----------



## Karoojager

Hello Beastmaster,

Thank you a lot for this very useful construction plan.
Unfortunately here in Germany I not found any dealer what sell the Ryobi Miter Saw Quickstand, model # A18MS01.
But I send a inquiry to Ryoby whether they send this tool to Germany ( hopefully they send this to overseas ).
If I get the Miter Saw Quickstand, I will send some pictures from my home made draw board / shooting machine.

Best regards from Germany

Frank


----------



## big yin

Hey Beastmaster,
I knock one of these badboys up this morning. It was easy as to build. 
First arrow was sweet
Second arrow smashed the nok off the first.
Third arrow smashed the nok off the second.
I think I will put it away is starting to cost a fortune.
Cheers Tim


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## jim p

Big Yin, post up some pictures of your machine. I would like to see if you have some innovations that I need to incorporate into my machine.


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## Tunaboy

*Shooter*

I like the idea of the adjustment screw on the winch. I put a turnbuckle in line. Not so nice but it works. I have changed from the nylon ski type rope to a steel cable and most of my accuracy problems have gone away. Does anyone have any ideas to stabilize the release when firing the bow. I think that the small problems that I see now are becasue of the slight side force on the trigger. I also have added a total of 60# of weight to the unit. When I am setting up I hang the weights and gently pull the legs away from each other. I set my draw length the first time with a piece of paper between the draw stop. As soon as I pinch the paper I mark a spot on the arrow and the launcher. With 60# the unit is very solid.


----------



## hunt123

Tunaboy said:


> Does anyone have any ideas to stabilize the release when firing the bow.


Maybe tie a string to the tip of the trigger and pull directly from the rear. Keep it from sliding on the trigger with a dab of hot glue.


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello
You have done well. I'm very impressed . You are a true DIY guy.


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## Anynamewilldo

Just bought the stand incase they stop selling them. Wont be able to make it till Jan. Question I have is will this be good for broadhead tuning? And is 12 yrds far enough to get the rest set. Its all the room I have in the garage so wondered if Im going to have to take this somewhere to get it better.


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## L.I.Archer

Anynamewilldo said:


> Just bought the stand incase they stop selling them. Wont be able to make it till Jan. Question I have is will this be good for broadhead tuning? And is 12 yrds far enough to get the rest set. Its all the room I have in the garage so wondered if Im going to have to take this somewhere to get it better.


I use it at the shop to papertune at 3 ft and 6 ft. Once that's good, set the rest and shoot your broadheads. Just make sure your broadheads are tuned to the arrow shaft using the G5 Arrow Squaring Tool.


----------



## njsbow

Now, I have to run out to Home Depot and by a miter saw stand. Here is a link to an old thread with a home made shooter to give you guys some more ideas.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=948576&page=1


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## hunt123

Anynamewilldo said:


> Just bought the stand incase they stop selling them. Wont be able to make it till Jan. Question I have is will this be good for broadhead tuning? And is 12 yrds far enough to get the rest set. Its all the room I have in the garage so wondered if Im going to have to take this somewhere to get it better.


Problems show up at 40 yds that you don't see at 12 or even 20. I'm putting my shooter away until spring so I can get it outside and test at a significant distance. You don't need the shooter just to set your rest. I made mine so I could rule out equipment issues when I'm shooting 60 - 70 yds or more. 

I'd likely bust up arrows or nocks if I tried to shoot a group at 12 yds, so I don't think using the Ryobi shooter to shoot short distances would tell much. But out at 70 any spine problems for example are real apparent and they can push groups pretty wide. The Ryobi shooter then becomes very helpful in figuring out whether it's the operator or the equipment.


----------



## Anynamewilldo

I know I dont have to have it to set up rest but i thought it would help along with the other stuff possible.


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## L.I.Archer

hunt123 said:


> Problems show up at 40 yds that you don't see at 12 or even 20. I'm putting my shooter away until spring so I can get it outside and test at a significant distance. You don't need the shooter just to set your rest. I made mine so I could rule out equipment issues when I'm shooting 60 - 70 yds or more.
> 
> I'd likely bust up arrows or nocks if I tried to shoot a group at 12 yds, so I don't think using the Ryobi shooter to shoot short distances would tell much. But out at 70 any spine problems for example are real apparent and they can push groups pretty wide. The Ryobi shooter then becomes very helpful in figuring out whether it's the operator or the equipment.


I use it to set the rest at the shop on bows with drawlengths longer than mine.

At 70 yards, you're not having spine issues; you're having "arrow-is-losing-momentum" issues and its getting blown by the wind.


----------



## hunt123

L.I.Archer said:


> I use it to set the rest at the shop on bows with drawlengths longer than mine.
> 
> At 70 yards, you're not having spine issues; you're having "arrow-is-losing-momentum" issues and its getting blown by the wind.


Not necessarily. Many windless afternoons here last summer. Maybe spine, maybe archer, maybe something else. That's what I'm going to find out come spring. 

Maybe the arrow spine likes a couple pounds more or less DW. Maybe the cock feather is on the wrong side of the spine and I need to turn the nock. Etc. Easton gives a 10 lb range for their spines which is pretty broad. I did some DW/spine testing last summer and it made a difference. But I want to take "me" out of it so the results are more precise and repeatable. 

If I know my equipment will repeatedly put 6 arrows close to 2" at 70 yds on a windless day, then I can forget about that part and work on getting myself closer to those results. I'll never be able to do it consistently, (or maybe not at all) but it's fun to try.


----------



## nick060200

i just got the stand for $76 at home depot. i got a bit of a discount. got the last one off the shelf in jville NC. sorry! don't know if this has been answered but would you want to use this to walk back tune? or would the shooter need to do that because of the way he or she draws a bow?


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## hunt123

nick060200 said:


> i just got the stand for $76 at home depot. i got a bit of a discount. got the last one off the shelf in jville NC. sorry! don't know if this has been answered but would you want to use this to walk back tune? or would the shooter need to do that because of the way he or she draws a bow?


Interesting idea. I guess you'd get the shooter set real solid with weight, then move the target back for each distance. Would probably work. Takes the person out of it so it's just pure equipment adjustment.


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## nick060200

so would it be a good idea?


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## hunt123

nick060200 said:


> so would it be a good idea?


I don't know if the extra work would be worth it. Maybe so if you don't mind doing it. Each time you move your target, you'll have to reset the left/right position of your shooter. I could be missing something, that's just off the top of my head, trying to think it through.


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## jim p

One way that you would walk back tune would be to put the target at 50 yards from the shooter and then take some supports and put them at 10 yard increments. From the supports hang a pea from a sewing thread. Now line up all the sewing threads and peas and fire a shot. If you hit all the sewing threads, the bow and shooting machine are going to be walk back tuned with just one shot. You would really only need a couple of vertical strings to see if the tune was good.

I wonder though if when you shoot the bow will the tune still be good.


----------



## nick060200

we need someone to experiment


----------



## Unk Bond

jim p said:


> One way that you would walk back tune would be to put the target at 50 yards from the shooter and then take some supports and put them at 10 yard increments. From the supports hang a pea from a sewing thread. Now line up all the sewing threads and peas and fire a shot. If you hit all the sewing threads, the bow and shooting machine are going to be walk back tuned with just one shot. You would really only need a couple of vertical strings to see if the tune was good.
> 
> I wonder though if when you shoot the bow will the tune still be good.


==================
Hello 
Don't think the wind from the arrow, just might push the thread. [Later


----------



## jim p

If it is close enough for the wind to push the string, it is close enough for me to call it tuned.  

But I did suggest to put a very heavy pea on the end of the string to keep the wind from pushing it around.


----------



## hunt123

jim p said:


> One way that you would walk back tune would be to put the target at 50 yards from the shooter and then take some supports and put them at 10 yard increments. From the supports hang a pea from a sewing thread. Now line up all the sewing threads and peas and fire a shot. If you hit all the sewing threads, the bow and shooting machine are going to be walk back tuned with just one shot. You would really only need a couple of vertical strings to see if the tune was good.
> 
> I wonder though if when you shoot the bow will the tune still be good.


Curious idea. Sure it would be in tune when you shoot it. Walkback tuning tunes the bow, not the shooter. How well it works completely depends on how good the shooter is. So pull the archer out of the process, and you should get really accurate results as long as the Ryobi shooter didn't move, as long as there was zero wind, and as long as your "pea" wasn't heavy enough to cause a slight deflection.

However, I think that if the "pea" is heavy enough to cause the thread to hang perfectly vertical, it's going to be heavy enough to be a deflection problem.


----------



## jim p

Ok you guys don't like my pea on a string idea so use some rice paper. Or use some laser pointers and see if you can break the beam of light.


----------



## Unk Bond

Unk Bond said:


> ==================
> Hello
> Don't think the wind from the arrow, just might push the thread. [Later


Hello All
I was just fun-in with you. :wink: [ Later


----------



## Twizdd

So I went to HD and picked up one these stands. They had 2 left. Have been working on getting my shop finished up, so needed Plywood and such any way. Picked up the winch and hardware on the way home. Got the stand home, put it all together and wouldn't ya know it, plopped my Miter saw on there and bolted it down. Worked great! Then came the dilema! Saw stand or shooter/draw board? Next day had to go back to HD to grab some Drywall, that second stand was still sittin there! Started puttin the shooter together last night.


----------



## Tunaboy

Just make sure that you weight the unit down and kick the legs out before shooting so it sets solid. 60# works well. I did make a different bow holder. Also don't use nylon rope on the winch. Too much stretch. Web belt would not work on my unit, I used 3/16" cable. Pick a release with an easy trigger. I used a U bolt on each mounting arm for the winch, mine was sliding. Accuracy seems good, would like to have 20 yards to shoot but it is basement time in Wisconsin


----------



## Twizdd

Anyone get a good bow holder worked out for this thing yet? Still fightin with it. I've tried a few different ideas and they just don't seem to work very well.


----------



## kwbrooks

Twizdd said:


> Anyone get a good bow holder worked out for this thing yet? Still fightin with it. I've tried a few different ideas and they just don't seem to work very well.


Maybe make a mold of your grip and attach it somehow? 

Alumilite Mold Putty


----------



## flyboy9994

Twizdd said:


> Anyone get a good bow holder worked out for this thing yet? Still fightin with it. I've tried a few different ideas and they just don't seem to work very well.


I'm with you... Just not happy with my "bow hand" set up. Thinking about carving something out of hard rubber or teflon block. Not sure where to find a peice of teflon big enough to carve on... Anybody have any ideas?? I'm thinking a piece about the size of a deck of cards would be about right...


----------



## MikeR

How well would the rubber on a larger rubber hammer work to carve a bow holding form? The dead blow hammer also has a very strong rubbery material. Both of these can be bought for under 10 dollars.


----------



## L.I.Archer

The bow holder I worked up works fine. I had access to all different bows and configurations before I came to the current design. I just need to make a retainer with longer legs to go through both tubes. The older shockier and jumpier bows will yank the retainer right out. With a retainer that goes through both tubes, I can drill a hole for a kotter pin so it can't jump out.


----------



## flyboy9994

MikeR said:


> How well would the rubber on a larger rubber hammer work to carve a bow holding form? The dead blow hammer also has a very strong rubbery material. Both of these can be bought for under 10 dollars.


Not a bad idea at all. That's about the density of the rubber I had in mind. Will check that out for sure and see what happens. Thinking about using the rubber like a cradle to set the handle in and then possibly a leather strap across the front of the riser about even with the rubber cradle. Not too tight but snug enough to hold the bow steady. Probably be after Christmas before I can get any pics up...


----------



## Twizdd

Worked on it again today, used L.I.Archer's set up and tweeked it a bit to utilize what I had on hand. Basically the same, but a little dummied down. Haven't used it as a shooter yet, but did draw back a 70 lbs BT 101st and the bow holder worked nicely. Also used his web strap guide idea. It works really well! Also drilled the 2 main tubes and bolted the 2 winch brackets down (upon testing on a 70 lbs bow they began to lift). Used a self tapper on the extension arm to prevent slippage. The way the bow holding bracket applies pressure, I don't think it's necessary to pin or bolt (but am keeping an eye on it). Gotta pick up and eye bolt tomarrow, I think I found a sweet way to attach a release I have. If I can find an eye bolt that will work, my set up will go from winch strap to turn buckle to release in such a way that i can quickly go from shooter to draw board. I'll try to post pics when I figure it out. Thanks to all of you guys that have posted your ideas and issues, you've all been a great help!


----------



## Twizdd

L.I.Archer said:


> With a retainer that goes through both tubes, I can drill a hole for a kotter pin so it can't jump out.


I looked into this today L.I. and the 101st 's cables are so close as it is that a bolt through setup would not work and could be a hazard if they came in contact. Out of my 3 Bowtechs it's the only one I've come across that is such a tight fit with the cables. It's an awesome idea, just be aware of the bows cables when you try it.


----------



## flyboy9994

Finally got some pics up. Not liking the bow holder but here's what I got so far. Also, U-bolts securing the brackets to the tubes will be cut off for asthetic reasons but I like them as it allows me to slide the winch assembly back and forth as needed. Still have alot of ideas in mind. More pics to come.


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## Tunaboy

I have what I think is a better bow holder. I know how to post a pic. off my camera but I am not sure how to do the photo bucket thing. Is there an easier way?


----------



## hunt123

Twizdd said:


> Anyone get a good bow holder worked out for this thing yet? Still fightin with it. I've tried a few different ideas and they just don't seem to work very well.


I just used a wooden dowel similar to what a previous poster did with a metal tube. Then I added a sliding stop on each side that I can tighten down so the bow always in the same left/right position. Fastened the bow on with a bungee. It holds the bow just fine and looks like it'll work. But I don't have an indoor place to try it out and outside is too unpleasant right now.


----------



## BTruman

Here is what I ended up doing. The bow is resting on a short piece of bicycle handle bar with the rubber grip cut to the same length, about 1 1/2 inches. It is bolted with a single bolt from the under side preventing any bolt heads or nuts from being in the way of the bow grip. The second "T" bar was covered with material to prevent any scratching of the riser and used upside down. By moving the lower T bar you can adjust the elevation when aiming. The square u-bolts are 2 inches wide allowing movement to eliminate canting the bow.


----------



## Viper69

This is a great idea. Im going to build one for our shop.


----------



## BackcountryBull

BTruman said:


> View attachment 959929
> 
> Here is what I ended up doing. The bow is resting on a short piece of bicycle handle bar with the rubber grip cut to the same length, about 1 1/2 inches. It is bolted with a single bolt from the under side preventing any bolt heads or nuts from being in the way of the bow grip. The second "T" bar was covered with material to prevent any scratching of the riser and used upside down. By moving the lower T bar you can adjust the elevation when aiming. The square u-bolts are 2 inches wide allowing movement to eliminate canting the bow.


Awesome idea!!! How has it shot for you?


----------



## flyboy9994

BTruman said:


> View attachment 959929
> 
> Here is what I ended up doing. The bow is resting on a short piece of bicycle handle bar with the rubber grip cut to the same length, about 1 1/2 inches. It is bolted with a single bolt from the under side preventing any bolt heads or nuts from being in the way of the bow grip. The second "T" bar was covered with material to prevent any scratching of the riser and used upside down. By moving the lower T bar you can adjust the elevation when aiming. The square u-bolts are 2 inches wide allowing movement to eliminate canting the bow.


That's what I'm talking about... Going to try that set-up for sure. Where did you fing the large black plastic knobs on the u-bolts. They look great!! Also, is that black "tool handle dipping plastic" stuff on the u-bolts??


----------



## BTruman

The handles came from Lowe's I had to drill through them to allow the bolt section to pass through. You will need to run a tap through after drilling. The square u bolts I got at Tractor supply 5/16 X 2 X 5 and that is a plastic tube that I had laying around that is on the u bolts. I haven't shot it yet, just been a busy time of year. I will let everyone know how it does when I do. I have also attached the press I built to this as well.


----------



## flyboy9994

O.K. Thanks BTruman. Guess I better make a list. Sure is a sweet set-up you got going there. Nice "ManCave"...


----------



## Beastmaster

Wow. Still going strong! Cool....


----------



## BTruman

Thanks.
There is a brass threaded bushing in the knobs. I used a small drill bit and drilled a pilot hole from inside the threaded area(the brass bushing is tapered on the inside end making this quite easy) then I drilled from the back side of the knob with a 3/8 bit until it was open to the threads. Drill slow and easy the plastic is very brittle. Then I ran a 5/16 tap through to clean up where I ha drilled. Now the rod ends can easily pass straight through.


----------



## Schpankme

Beastmaster said:


> Hi guys and gals! I'm going to give you all a quick lesson in creating your own mechanical shooter and draw board combination for all of $160.


Love off the shelf creativity.

Thank you,


----------



## dcgameslayer

Thats nice I will be building one of these for sure thank for the great info.


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## NYS REP

I bought the Ryobi stand a month ago for this purpose and told the wife that I wouldn't mind one of these for it's intended use of holding a miter saw. Santa put one under the tree. Now I have a cool draw board/shooter and press work center and a portable miter saw table/work center. Thanks you all the suggestions guys.


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## BackcountryBull

NYS REP said:


> I bought the Ryobi stand a month ago for this purpose and told the wife that I wouldn't mind one of these for it's intended use of holding a miter saw. Santa put one under the tree. Now I have a cool draw board/shooter and press work center and a portable miter saw table/work center. Thanks you all the suggestions guys.


Haha, gotta love that!!!!


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## HuntIL2

This is a great idea! I put one together this weekend but i'm taking my time with the bow holder given all of the comments people have made. I really like the setup BTruman made (post #324) so I might try that route. Keep coming with the mods and ideas. Thanks everyone.


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## Blazinpond

Excellent thread. I will picking up some parts this weekend! Thanks for sharing everyone!


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## glennjames21

If the Feds would just let the common sense people here on AT take care of the problems. America would have no problems!!
It never seams to amaze me with the ingenuity that you gentlemen have, and the willingness to share!! Hats off to you all!!!


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## Beastmaster

Just as an FYI - Home Depot online seems to be out of stock on this stand.


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## joaxe

Beastmaster said:


> Just as an FYI - Home Depot online seems to be out of stock on this stand.


Yeah, I had to call my local store to check stock. They have one and I'll grab it tomorrow! Nice!

Joe


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## COATED

TTT.....sweet thread guys......


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## joaxe

Yes! Just picked up the Ryobi stand at the local Homey D. for $79.00! Hitting the Harbor Freight location after work.

Question: How (besides a shooting machine) can this be used with a single cam bow? Idler lean check, I'd imagine...

Joe


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## Tunaboy

One thing that would help a lot would be a small set of wheels on the shooter. You see these on lots of other miter saw stands. With the legs in the up position wheels would make it easy to take the unit to the range for long distance testing. Anybody got any ideas??

Thx


----------



## peregrine82

Big thanks to Beastmaster for suggesting the Ryobi stand. We are not done yet but I thought I would show you what we have done with the front end and the release. The bow is cradled in HWMU (think that is correct) this has been helicoiled to accept 1/4 x 20 bolts front and rear. The front strap is a soft urethane and works great. The front end is adjustable up down, turns 360 for level adjustment and can be adjusted for 3rd axis. 

The release is a Cobra with a threaded rod which screws in to our own turnbuckle. Fine adjustments for draw stops are real easy. The press is mounted on the stand to give it mass and make a multi purpose work station. I have my vise mounted as well as my arrow saw. I have only shot this indoors at 20 ft. but am getting same hole results. I drilled through the round stock and use a clevis pin so the bar will not slide in the housing. My buddy Rob, the tool maker did all the work and came up with most of the ideas. Can't wait for decent weather so I can take this up to the range and start tuning arrows.


----------



## L.I.Archer

peregrine82 said:


> Big thanks to Beastmaster for suggesting the Ryobi stand. We are not done yet but I thought I would show you what we have done with the front end and the release. The bow is cradled in HWMU (think that is correct) this has been helicoiled to accept 1/4 x 20 bolts front and rear. The front strap is a soft urethane and works great. The front end is adjustable up down, turns 360 for level adjustment and can be adjusted for 3rd axis.
> 
> The release is a Cobra with a threaded rod which screws in to our own turnbuckle. Fine adjustments for draw stops are real easy. The press is mounted on the stand to give it mass and make a multi purpose work station. I have my vise mounted as well as my arrow saw. I have only shot this indoors at 20 ft. but am getting same hole results. I drilled through the round stock and use a clevis pin so the bar will not slide in the housing. My buddy Rob, the tool maker did all the work and came up with most of the ideas. Can't wait for decent weather so I can take this up to the range and start tuning arrows.


That's awesome. The problem is, not many of us here have access to machining equipment to do what you did with the solid stock aluminum and delrin. I was thinking of mounting a bow-vise to the one I made, but mounting a bow press to it is a great idea.


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## Unk Bond

Hello all
U guys ,keep getting better and better. :wink:


----------



## peregrine82

Pics of my buddy Robs, "Uber shooter". I an going to be taking mine to an indoor range and try some longer distances.


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## docarcher

peregrine82,

_"Big thanks to Beastmaster for suggesting the Ryobi stand. We are not done yet but I thought I would show you what we have done with the front end and the release. The bow is cradled in HWMU (think that is correct) this has been helicoiled to accept 1/4 x 20 bolts front and rear. The front strap is a soft urethane and works great."_

Can you describe further what that white block is? I'm not familiar w/ "HWMU" and when I search for it on the web I can't find anything but "Hazardous Waste Management"...I'm going to take a gander that is not correct...


----------



## Beastmaster

Either it's HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) or HWU/HDU (Heavy Weight/High Density Urethane). Both are millable/carvable and are able to be used for stuff like this.


----------



## DssBB

The initial testing which I've been able to do seems very good and consistent and I've been able to place arrows in the exact holes at 4 different locations on my target bag. I've only been able to shoot at close range (10'-15') however the way I designed and built the bow holding arm and clamps, it has allowed for easy adjustment of height, left to right and adjusting any canting of the bow. The anchor point never changes. The only changes needed to adjust the shot are from the bow holding arm. I've opted to use a nylon rope on mine vs the strap which peregrine82 has on his and so far both methods are working quite well. I was expecting some stretching in the rope to give me some issues but so far there are none. The draw length fine adjustment is done via a custom made turn buckle / release holder and I've also opted for a catch rope which attaches to the turn buckle and one of the brackets which holds the draw bar scale. This prevents the release from hitting the floor upon firing. It's simple and it seems to work quite well.
The draw bar scale is held on with two adjustable mounting brackets via rare earth magnets. This seems to hold the bar fairly rigid yet still allows for the scale bar to be moved or slid forward or backward as the bow holding arm is moved in or out. The brackets which hold the scale bar can also be adjusted up or down to adjust the height of the scale as needed.
Having the bow presses mounted to the "Uber Shooter" frames not only free's up bench space but also seems to give enough added weight to the stand to prevent it from sliding on the floor.
We can also remove the presses from the stand and in the same holes tapped into the cross braces, we can attach out string jigs which makes these stand quite universal. I still need to make up a couple fully adjustable bow holders which I'm planning on mounting on the stand in the future.

Edit.

The bow holders were made from UHMW and I'm using 60 durometer urethane as a front support on the bow. This combination seem to keep the bow secure and prevents any marking on the riser.


----------



## Tunaboy

The white plastic block is nice but I have a simmilar one that I made from a hockey puck. Solid rubber and works good. You can buy them in most places. I got mine several years ago at Walmart on clearance, think I paid .50 ea, I bought 6. Watch out when cutting any plastic or rubber the material tends to get "grabby".


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## bjleslie

HDPE high density polyethylene (used for milk bottles, kids toys etc). 
LDPE low density polethylene (used for gearbage bags etc)
HMWPE high molecular weight polyethylene (HDPE but much harder/tougher, used for conveyor belt bumper strips, truck gas tanks, machined parts that aren't under a real heavy load.)

Was at one of my favorite toy stores yesterday & found what I believe will make an excelent bow holder. It's a bow (as in boat) bumper. "V" shaped hard rubber block about 2"x 4"x4", cuts easily with a hack saw, cleans up nicely with a file & sand paper, already has a 1/2" hole through it you can use for mounting & only cost $2.98. Roughed it out this aft (had to trim a half inch off both sides) & have it stuck on the stand with a rubber band right now. Will try to get a pic on here later.


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## Tunaboy

I like that idea for a bow holder too. You could get 2-3 holders from one block.


----------



## bjleslie

This is the roughed out $3 bow (as in boat bumper) holder I mentioned in the previous post.
Took me longer to figure out how to get a pic on here than it did to cut it down this far.
Need to shorten the "V" some, bevel the edges & & rig a strap across the front.
Mounting blocks & bolt came from the going to the dump next trip can. The 1/16" stock stop is getting replaced by something a little heavier duty too. But it looks like it's going to work & you get the idea.


----------



## hunt123

bjleslie said:


> This is the roughed out $3 bow (as in boat bumper) holder I mentioned in the previous post.
> Took me longer to figure out how to get a pic on here than it did to cut it down this far.
> Need to shorten the "V" some, bevel the edges & & rig a strap across the front.
> Mounting blocks & bolt came from the going to the dump next trip can. The 1/16" stock stop is getting replaced by something a little heavier duty too. But it looks like it's going to work & you get the idea.


Nice. I might look into doing that. You could run a bolt directly through the bottom of the V instead of using the existing mounting holes in the bumper. The bumper is thick enough you could countersink the bolt head.


----------



## Liviu

bjleslie said:


> Was at one of my favorite toy stores yesterday & found what I believe will make an excelent bow holder. It's a bow (as in boat) bumper. "V" shaped hard rubber block about 2"x 4"x4", cuts easily with a hack saw, cleans up nicely with a file & sand paper, already has a 1/2" hole through it you can use for mounting & only cost $2.98. Roughed it out this aft (had to trim a half inch off both sides) & have it stuck on the stand with a rubber band right now. Will try to get a pic on here later.


Can you tell me more about the friction. Does it fell "rubbery" or "plasticky" on touch? Would a wooden bow handle slide easily on it?


----------



## jim p

I like the boat bumper or what ever it is called. What is the hardware that you are using to bolt it to the angle stop? I could use some angle brackets but your supports look good.


----------



## DssBB

If I may make a comment about the rubber bumper material you are wanting to use. If the rubber has too much flex to it which the rubber bumper material will have, then you may run into alot of inconsistencies in your shot pattern as the bow may not seat itself in the same spot for each shot. The bow, although it does not need to held rigid in the holder it does need to have a consistent place to come to rest (bow anchor spot) when drawn to ensure repeatability.
This is why I chose to make the base for the bow holders out of UHMW as shown in the pictures posted above by peregrine82. The UHMW is rigid enough to ensure the bow will seat itself in the same place each time it is drawn and the shot pattern will repeat. The UHMW is also hard ,yet soft enough not to mark the risers and has enough lubricity to allow the riser or wooden bow grips to slide or locate itself upon drawing the bow. 
The UHMW bow holder also is made and attaches with a fairly close tolerance fit to the aluminum bow holder bar so it can only move and pivot about it's own centerline which inturn allows us to adjust the canting of the bow and bring the sight level to where it needs to be level prior to the shot.


----------



## bjleslie

*bow bumper*

The rubber is harder than my truck tires but I think it's probably made from recycled tires. It's not slick like poly or delrin, not real tacky but doesn't slide easily on a wooden bow handle either. 

It left black marks on my white handle so I put a piece of electricians tape over the pressure point which took care of the black marks & the not slick problem too. Don't know how permanent the tape will be. Might try gluing a piece of leather in there.

Kinda doubt positioning will be a problem once I get the pressure point beveled down to a half inch or so but if it is I'll have a good model. Don't have any usable UHMWPE or Delrin laying around & a peice of 3/4" stock that size is going to cost about $20 so when I saw this I thought, gotta try it.

The mounting blocks are from some kind of hanger bolt. Been in my junk drawer for years. Just happen to have a 1/2" hole & be about the right size. Would be easy to make out of 3/8" aluminum.


----------



## jg-xring

Just took the first few shots out of mine today. Can't wait to get it somewhere that I can shoot at some distance. Thanks for all the great info guys.


----------



## bfoot

peregrine82 said:


> Big thanks to Beastmaster for suggesting the Ryobi stand. We are not done yet but I thought I would show you what we have done with the front end and the release. The bow is cradled in HWMU (think that is correct) this has been helicoiled to accept 1/4 x 20 bolts front and rear. The front strap is a soft urethane and works great. The front end is adjustable up down, turns 360 for level adjustment and can be adjusted for 3rd axis.
> 
> The release is a Cobra with a threaded rod which screws in to our own turnbuckle. Fine adjustments for draw stops are real easy. The press is mounted on the stand to give it mass and make a multi purpose work station. I have my vise mounted as well as my arrow saw. I have only shot this indoors at 20 ft. but am getting same hole results. I drilled through the round stock and use a clevis pin so the bar will not slide in the housing. My buddy Rob, the tool maker did all the work and came up with most of the ideas. Can't wait for decent weather so I can take this up to the range and start tuning arrows.


That sounds great, without something like that it is almost useless for me as a shooter. To aim I end up having to prop up the stand and there is no consistency from shot to shot. Would your friend be willing to make one for sale. I would pay a reasonable price for one.

Bob


----------



## peregrine82

Unfortunately my buddy does not want to get involved in fabricating, selling and shipping. If you download the pics and take them to your local machine shop they may be able to make what you need.


----------



## QCBowman

Here's what mine looks like. Just finished it this evening. I'm going to have to make a few tweeks to the grip mount because it won't allow for the QAD type rest (all others are fine) and I'm going to do a little trimming on the one piece of 2x2 steel to give clearance under the fingers at the crank side.

View attachment 973680
View attachment 973679


Having it mounted to my press allows me to use the fine screw of the EZ to get the draw just perfect into the stops.


----------



## Maybee-R

Took this Idea also. Thanks! Im liking the Plastic grip and third axis adjustment also great work guys.


----------



## Tunaboy

May, could we get a pic of your winch mount and bow mount?


----------



## peregrine82

Maybee-R said:


> Took this Idea also. Thanks! Im liking the Plastic grip and third axis adjustment also great work guys.


 Looking real good, one thing DsBB and I have discussed is making sure that on the shot the shooter must not move. When shooting in my garage when I get a variance from same hole I am sure it is because the "Ubershooter" moved ever so slightly on the concrete floor. For outdoors we are looking at a spike system for the legs. Indoors perhaps a very sticky rubber compound.


----------



## Maybee-R

Winch is just bolted to the opisite slide bar. If I where to do it again I would slide the bar out farther for a bow vise. ( still could )
Press is Mounted to the saw release arms. So its removable. easier to toss in the truck and take to shoots or what ever. I wanted all of it on the same side, so I didnt have to walk around and around. lol!


----------



## Maybee-R

peregrine82 said:


> Looking real good, one thing DsBB and I have discussed is making sure that on the shot the shooter must not move. When shooting in my garage when I get a variance from same hole I am sure it is because the "Ubershooter" moved ever so slightly on the concrete floor. For outdoors we are looking at a spike system for the legs. Indoors perhaps a very sticky rubber compound.


Yes it walks, Im pouring some lead weights that clamp on the legs. Two 80lb weights and rubber cups under the legs if I ever figure out where to find them. I also thought about screw jacks for each leg. More adjustable maybe?


----------



## tmg

so

for those of us in Europe, this is pretty much a clone of the ryobi stand, and they ship to UK and Ireland from their site, and I believe to the rest of europe if you call them

http://charnwood.net/shop/product/c...ng-tool-stand-with-quick-action-clamp?cid=127

I've set up mine and it works like a charm! Its identical to the Ryobi apart from a small difference in the roller shield, but otherwise a completely cool substitute!

thanks again to everyone on this thread for all the great info!

t.


note:I am in no way affiliated with this supplier other than as a happy purchaser of this stand.


----------



## Beastmaster

tmg said:


> so
> 
> for those of us in Europe, this is pretty much a clone of the ryobi stand, and they ship to UK and Ireland from their site, and I believe to the rest of europe if you call them
> 
> http://charnwood.net/shop/product/c...ng-tool-stand-with-quick-action-clamp?cid=127
> 
> I've set up mine and it works like a charm! Its identical to the Ryobi apart from a small difference in the roller shield, but otherwise a completely cool substitute!
> 
> thanks again to everyone on this thread for all the great info!
> 
> t.
> 
> 
> note:I am in no way affiliated with this supplier other than as a happy purchaser of this stand.


Thank you for sourcing this out! Even more choices for people world wide!


----------



## tmg

thanks for the design! and all the foam shredding goodness!

t.


----------



## DssBB

Thanks for the complements on the design and fabrication work on "der Uber Shooters". There are still a few neat little upgrades to the stands which should help with any movement of the stands on hard surfaces and as Peregrine82 mentioned, ground spikes for field testing. 
I have been receiving quite a few pm's to make Shooter parts for others and I do appreciate others liking the design and wanting similar parts for their own shooters however, I unfortunately do not have the extra time to make parts for others and the cost for shipping the parts would be extremely expensive due to the weight of the parts. I will be glad to help if others need clarification of the design or sizes are needed to have your own parts made locally. Again, thanks to Beastmaster to getting the ball rolling on a great project and stay tuned for a few more added upgrades.

DssBB


----------



## peregrine82

Well for now my "Ubershooter" is a shooter, draw board, arrow saw is bolted on to the sliding arm at the rear. Ram vise is bolted on the clamp holding down my EZ press. I am thinking about adding wheels and a motor, barbeque and an umbrella. I certainly will be a hit at the 3D shoots. JK.


----------



## DssBB

Peregrine82, I outfitted Uber1 with a 9.8 Merc last night. Arrow speed is important and every little bit helps. hehehe. 
The flexible bow holder images mounted to the back end of the stand should be in your inbox. I've taken a old flex arm (Flexbar USA) from an obsolete machine guard and made a few extra parts I felt it was lacking. Instant flexible bow holder.....the Uber way. lol


----------



## peregrine82

I'm posting this for DssBB, looks like he has kicked it up a notch with his vise. BTW, the red yardage tape he had made and runs the numbers the proper way, from right to left.


----------



## docarcher

View attachment 974520
View attachment 974519


Thanks to all the gang for the ideas. Here's "doc's" version. Haven't tried it as a shooter...mainly just draw board, press & arrow saw station. Press is a Bow-A-Constrictor...thanks goes out to [email protected] Buckeye Archery. Nothing fancy about the arrow saw. Whole thing is not as sophisticated as peregrine's, but since Santa brought the table and wench and I already had the press and saw, it has cost me less than $20 for nuts/bolts thus far.

Bow hand is a simple piece of 3/4in PVC coupler...perfect size for my PSE and allows plenty of clearance for my QAD HD rest. Took LIarcher's recommendation regarding the 5/16 x 2 1/2 x 5in U bolt, then BT's lead on the lower bow hand mount.

I'd describe more, but it has shown me how much my timing is off, so gotta get to tuning now.


----------



## peregrine82

Great job Doc, I love all the different ways that everyone has taken this stand. Beastmaster will be asking for royalties soon.


----------



## david8017

Beastmaster said:


> Bear in mind that I don't know how long the Ryobi stand will be on sale, hence why I mentioned the $160 build price, since I used the regular pricing instead of the sale one.


I went to home depot today and it was still on sale 4 79.99 (houston,tx). It was the last one and the box was torn all to hell but all the parts were there. They took an additional 15 off! Sweet deal.


----------



## L.I.Archer

I bet you that somewhere, in Home Depot purchasing departments everywhere, they're all wondering, "What the hell is going on here?? All of a sudden, people are buying out every single Ryobi miter saw stand everywhere!!" LOL!!


----------



## lonewolf65

one of the bow shop's in hicksville ny has the same set up.....it's pretty wild


----------



## lonewolf65

wai.....?


----------



## L.I.Archer

lonewolf65 said:


> wai.....?


Yes.


----------



## paulaboutform

This is absolutely BRILLIANT!!! To say i love it is an understatement! i can't wait to put one of these together. i've tested arrows on a hooter shooter but just wasn't willing to spend that kind of dough to buy one. it's amazing how you can pick 'flyers' out of your arrows with one of these machines. thank you so much for all your effort and the excellent pics..:set1_applaud:


----------



## joaxe

Ry-Bow-bi peeps,

Also, look around (magazines, etc.) for coupons for Harbor Freight (or check their website). I got the winch for 20% off using a coupon.

Joe


----------



## Beastmaster

Hehe. 13 pages. I'm thrilled! 

I tried the hockey puck. It was a 20 year old one that I had hanging around for some dumb reason. As soon as I started drill pressing it to take major chunks out, it disintegrated. 

So, old pucks won't work.


----------



## Tunaboy

The hockey pucks that I have used have worked fine. I have cut 2 so far and they are great. They are probably 5-7 years old. Not sure what one would cost but I would think $3-4. Go find a new one.


----------



## Barry O'Regan

Ah, you gotta love the little woman, should have told her you were going to install the shooter on the pickup bed when you go hunting and that way you can back up to your game. Mind you, then you will have to inform the little woman, you will disable the trucks backup alarm sensor, so as not to spook the game.


----------



## Barry O'Regan

straddleridge said:


> I demonstrated my ryobi robo shooter to my wife. Pointed out the hole in the target and then shot. Arrow hit the same hole. Wife says "are you going to take that thing out into the woods hunting with you?" Told her no. She says "Then what good is it?" I gave up.


Ah, ya gotta love the little woman, bless her cotton socks, you should have told her you were going to install the shooter on the trucks pickup bed when you go hunting and that way you can back up to your game to shoot it with a remote release, while you sit in the truck and have a beer. 

Mind you, then you will have to explain to the little woman,(cause you know she will ask you) you will disable the trucks backup alarm sensor, so as not to spook the game.


----------



## Barry O'Regan

Beastmaster said:


> Hi guys and gals! I'm going to give you all a quick lesson in creating your own mechanical shooter and draw board combination for all of $160.
> 
> Yes, that's right. $160, and all you need is a field trip to a Home Depot, a Harbor Freight, and a deep socket tool set. Anyone can build this, and you don't need welding gear, any specialized stuff, or a green alien slave girl to build this for you.
> 
> Starting off - the parts list.
> 
> 1) A Ryobi Miter Saw Quickstand, model # A18MS01. Link is here:
> http://www.ryobitools.com/catalog/accessories/standtables/A18MS01
> 
> Home Depot has it normally for 99 dollars. It's on sale for 79 dollars right now. Rated for 400 pounds of abuse, this will be more than sufficient to handle a bow.
> 
> 2) A Harbor Freight Haulmaster Manual winch., model 95541.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/manual-strap-winch-95541.html
> 
> It's normally priced at 29.99. This is a 900 pound winch.
> 
> 3) Some generic foam tubing, like from a swimming noodle or pipe insulation. 5 bucks.
> 
> 4) Duct Tape and some ball ended shock cord. 5 bucks.
> 
> 5) TruFire Patriot or Patriot Junior release - average price, 20 bucks.
> 
> Total price - $160 excluding tax and gas.


Gee Beastmaster, that is awesome ingenuity on your part. I will be building one pronto. You know, perhaps you should contact Ryobi and ask them if they need a pro shooter, after all you may have just opened up a new business line for their Miter stand their marketing gurus never dreamed of. I can see Hooter shooters nervously thinking they should market their shooters into miter saw stands.

Excellent invention, saving all of us a grand easily.


----------



## carlosii

went to home depot last evening. they had one ryobi left and it was 99 dollars. dang, must have just missed it. gonna check menard's maybe they have a few laying around. i tried lowe's but no luck; it didn't look as if they even carried ryobi. maybe craig's list????


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## hunt123

Barry O'Regan said:


> Ah, ya gotta love the little woman, bless her cotton socks, you should have told her you were going to install the shooter on the trucks pickup bed when you go hunting and that way you can back up to your game to shoot it with a remote release, while you sit in the truck and have a beer.
> 
> Mind you, then you will have to explain to the little woman,(cause you know she will ask you) you will disable the trucks backup alarm sensor, so as not to spook the game.


Then if your winch cable is long enough, just hook it on the deer and winch it up into the pickup bed. No end of things you can do with this invention.


----------



## joaxe

carlosii said:


> went to home depot last evening. they had one ryobi left and it was 99 dollars. dang, must have just missed it. gonna check menard's maybe they have a few laying around. i tried lowe's but no luck; it didn't look as if they even carried ryobi. maybe craig's list????


carlosii,

The stand is on sale at all Home Depot centers. However, it is "out of stock" online. You need to purchase at the store. Here is the link for the stand:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I would print it and bring it with you. They should honor that price at the store. The model number of the stand is *A18MS01* 

Joe


----------



## WVaBuckHunter

Thanks for this thread, I built one this weekend and it works great. Everything I wanted, at a price that I can afford. Thanks again for sharing!!


----------



## carlosii

joaxe said:


> carlosii,
> 
> The stand is on sale at all Home Depot centers. However, it is "out of stock" online. You need to purchase at the store. Here is the link for the stand:
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
> 
> I would print it and bring it with you. They should honor that price at the store. The model number of the stand is *A18MS01*
> 
> Joe



Yep. Looks like the ATers have run the well dry. I like the idea of taking the printout to the store. Only problem I have is that the nearest one is like 50 miles away. Plan on calling them tomorrow and see if they have it in stock. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## L.I.Archer

They probably have this stand at Lowe's too.


----------



## joaxe

carlosii said:


> Yep. Looks like the ATers have run the well dry. I like the idea of taking the printout to the store. Only problem I have is that the nearest one is like 50 miles away. Plan on calling them tomorrow and see if they have it in stock. Thanks for the tip.


Good Luck! My HD had 3 of them in stock (at least on the dispaly rack in the "Tools" section).

Joe


----------



## Beastmaster

WVaBuckHunter said:


> Thanks for this thread, I built one this weekend and it works great. Everything I wanted, at a price that I can afford. Thanks again for sharing!!


Glad it worked for you!


----------



## Beastmaster

L.I.Archer said:


> They probably have this stand at Lowe's too.


Actually, they don't. Ryobi and Home Depot have an exclusive. 

Now, I have seen at one Lowes a similar unit. I have to go there today so I may research it.


----------



## Beastmaster

Barry O'Regan said:


> Gee Beastmaster, that is awesome ingenuity on your part. I will be building one pronto. You know, perhaps you should contact Ryobi and ask them if they need a pro shooter, after all you may have just opened up a new business line for their Miter stand their marketing gurus never dreamed of. I can see Hooter shooters nervously thinking they should market their shooters into miter saw stands.
> 
> Excellent invention, saving all of us a grand easily.


Thanks! I can't tell you all how long I've been pondering how to make one using common off the shelf parts and have it be a no weld solution. 

With regards to Ryobi, I'm actually glad that the Robo-bow solution uses their part. They employ a huge amount of people in the Phoenix area making weed eaters and other lawn equipment. Even though they are a foreign owned company, they have a LOT of plants here employing people.


----------



## Beastmaster

Tunaboy said:


> The hockey pucks that I have used have worked fine. I have cut 2 so far and they are great. They are probably 5-7 years old. Not sure what one would cost but I would think $3-4. Go find a new one.


I have a friend who's kid moonlights as a safety skater at a local rink. I'll see if his kid can run and grab me a few to play with.


----------



## Beastmaster

Okay - a quick trip to Lowes and some other Google-Fu revealed some similar stands.

1) Skil Miter Saw Stand (Lowes/Amazon) - Part number 3300-MS. Lowes sells it for 99 bucks. Amazon sells it as well. http://www.skiltools.com/en/AllTools/Category/Product/default.html?pid=3300MS

The only thing I see that is an issue is that this particular stand has the arms coming out from the center. So, you'd need to mount the winch appropriately in the correct place. This, of course, will prevent the use of the center area for anything other than the winch.

2) Dewalt Miter Saw Stand. Model Number DW723. This is the stand only with no mounts. The mount part is DW7231. Together, the items are about 200 bucks local. And, it's identical to the Ryobi, in all pieces, essences, and dimensions. Sold at Sears and online via Amazon.

3) For those of you who are near a Menards. Get the Portamate PM5000. Menards SKU 2401652. http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...contractors-with-extra-features/p-1449977.htm. Same as the Ryobi but with wheels on it. $99 bucks.

4) Want a lighter weight version? Get the Portamate PM3900 at Menards. Menards SKU 2401653. http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...table-miter-saw-stand-for-diyer/p-1449976.htm. 60 bucks.

So, I think this covers nearly every part of the United States. Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, and whoever else that can't get something local can order it via Amazon or Sears. If you do Amazon Prime, you get free shipping.

-Steve


----------



## L.I.Archer

You missed ACE and Sears. LOL!!


----------



## Beastmaster

L.I.Archer said:


> You missed ACE and Sears. LOL!!


Ace Hardware in Phoenix don't carry stuff like this. Sears carries the Dewalt as a free ship to store. 

I should check a True Value hardware too.


----------



## oct71

BM,

Thanks alot for this idea. Your price looks way better than the others. I plan on building one of these soon. I just hope the home depot that is 110 miles away has one in stock. I'm calling in the morning.


----------



## Out West

Nice idea and write up......


----------



## centershotrob

AWESOME device. Thanks for the post.


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## crewdog93

Just got the stand this week at the HD in the Detroit Area with a mil discount 75 plus tax. You folks are great keep up the good work. This is the kind of stuff this country was made with.


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## J-Dubyah

Just picked up the stand today...once I get back from vacation I will begin the build. I'll post up my build once done!


----------



## archerm3

I just picked up my Ryobi stand at the Homedepot locally here. They have 5 more in stock for 79 each. Grand Island Nebraska store that is if anyone is interested. Now I will have two machines because this one is so clever. I needed a miter saw stand anyways.


----------



## NEWYORKHILLBILLY

archerm3 said:


> I just picked up my Ryobi stand at the Homedepot locally here. They have 5 more in stock for 79 each. Grand Island Nebraska store that is if anyone is interested. Now I will have two machines because this one is so clever. I needed a miter saw stand anyways.


Wish I was closer. a called are local store in victor new york and they are 99.99


----------



## Rob Starkey

Dude, sweet post! Thanks for all the good ideas everybody. I see exactly how it works and love it. I am going to build one! But, I looked and didn't see it asked already... When you release the bowstring, where does your release and that metal hook go to? Isn't there some recoil of the strap and that weight on the end of it?


----------



## L.I.Archer

Rob Starkey said:


> Dude, sweet post! Thanks for all the good ideas everybody. I see exactly how it works and love it. I am going to build one! But, I looked and didn't see it asked already... When you release the bowstring, where does your release and that metal hook go to? Isn't there some recoil of the strap and that weight on the end of it?


There is no recoil on the release; it just drops.


----------



## Beastmaster

L.I.Archer said:


> There is no recoil on the release; it just drops.


Ype. The weight of the release and the hook makes it just drop to the floor. It's also why I originally spec'ed out a cheap release.


----------



## DssBB

If you look at my Uber Shooter post #347, I used a piece of nylon rope which attaches to the turnbuckle and one of the mounting brackets to prevent the release from hitting the floor as it falls. Allow enough slack in the rope to prevent any unwanted torque on the release yet still allowing it to fall without getting damaged.


----------



## L.I.Archer

DssBB said:


> If you look at my Uber Shooter post #347, I used a piece of nylon rope which attaches to the turnbuckle and one of the mounting brackets to prevent the release from hitting the floor as it falls. Allow enough slack in the rope to prevent any unwanted torque on the release yet still allowing it to fall without getting damaged.


I'm not sure why your releases are hitting the floor on the shot. I have my shooter adjusted so that there's about 6" to 10" of strap & release sticking out beyond the strap guide.







I've since modified the guide to be higher up. I'll post pictures when I've got a Bowtech Invasion in it next week when I'm papertuning the bow.


----------



## DssBB

We are not using a strap / rope guide as some of the guys opted for. If you look at our design, we come right off the winch to the bow, so upon firing the bow, the release and turnbuckle are allowed to free fall which is why we use a support rope to prevent the release from hitting the floor. We decided not to use any support for the strap / rope as we figured it was best to keep the drawing action as natural as possible. This is not saying that a support would hinder anything, it was primarily our design decision.


----------



## Rob Starkey

cool, Thanks!


----------



## blklab

Sportsman warehouse catalog have the miter stands for $69.00


----------



## johnhall04

Bump for an amazing thread. Sticky for sure!!!!


----------



## Camocam813

What holds the grip? What keeps the bow from falling when you release the arrow?


----------



## double o

Out of this whole thread 14 pages not one person has put together a list of "how to build and what you need". I know the OP put together the basics but what about the improvements? Can someone put together a list and instructions on how to build this thing. Or can the OP post it up on the first page. I saw a couple of guys doing custom fab bow holders. Not everyone has fabrication tools............ I have a Drill, a Saw, and a Hammer. How do i build this darn thing?


----------



## L.I.Archer

double o said:


> Out of this whole thread 14 pages not one person has put together a list of "how to build and what you need". I know the OP put together the basics but what about the improvements? Can someone put together a list and instructions on how to build this thing. Or can the OP post it up on the first page. I saw a couple of guys doing custom fab bow holders. Not everyone has fabrication tools............ I have a Drill, a Saw, and a Hammer. How do i build this darn thing?


All I used was a drill, drill and screw bits, a pipe/tubing cutter, hacksaw, a rubber mallet, socket wrench set and trial and error. I did change the angle of the bow grip holder and beef it up a bit and used a bungie cord to hold it in for those older bows that tend to jump






:


----------



## Mcgiiver

Basic Question. What is a draw board and what is it used for? Is this something for handicapped archers? Is this similar to a rifle rest for sighting in and tuning?


----------



## L.I.Archer

Mcgiiver said:


> Basic Question. What is a draw board and what is it used for? Is this something for handicapped archers? Is this similar to a rifle rest for sighting in and tuning?


A drawboard mechanically draws open your bow to see if your bow's cams are time (on two cam bows), and also used to set the timing cord on dropaway rests, like the QAD, Ripcord, etc., that uses the buss cable to activate the launchers.


----------



## double o

Also can be used to check your DL and to see if you have nock pinch. You can put a scale on the cable to see the weight of draw also. Its just nice to see the bow drawn back slowly to see everything moving on the bow. Plus the above.:up:


----------



## TozerBGood

Where have all the Ryobi's gone?













Just kidding. Got mine today, and ordered belt winch from HF.


----------



## carlosii

i screwed up i think. stopped by menards and they had their stands on sale. big one was 80$ and the smaller model was 50$.


----------



## TozerBGood

I was wondering if any of you folks who have made one, if you had considered using something like this at the grip?
It's 3" wide, 1/2" hole and that's all the dimensions they give. It's made out of yellow rubber, and is used as a boat trailer roller.

I'd appreciate if someone could give me an opinion whether they think it would help stabilize the bow or not?
So far, I believe I like L.I. Archer's idea the best - seems more versatile for different kinds of bows.










If you could slip a u-bolt through it, and mount it up at an angle off the T-riser somewhat similar to What L.I. Archer did here, and then make another rubber covered u-bolt to slip in on the back side...


----------



## double o

TozerBGood said:


> I was wondering if any of you folks who have made one, if you had considered using something like this at the grip?
> It's 3" wide, 1/2" hole and that's all the dimensions they give. It's made out of yellow rubber, and is used as a boat trailer roller.
> 
> I'd appreciate if someone could give me an opinion whether they think it would help stabilize the bow or not?
> So far, I believe I like L.I. Archer's idea the best - seems more versatile for different kinds of bows.


I think it would hold the bow but how would you mount it on the Ryobi?


----------



## TozerBGood

double o said:


> I think it would hold the bow but how would you mount it on the Ryobi?


Slip a u-bolt through it and bolt onto T-riser similer to what L.I.Archer did, only this instead of all the conduit & PVC

If a u-bolt won't slip through, and a shaft with bolt holes tapped on each end, and then it could be bolted to T-Riser that way.

I also found more info on dimensions.



> Bow Stop Roller 3" long, 2-7/8" wide. 1/2" dia hole. Normally used on the trailer winch stand, this roller acts as a bow stop for the boat.Durable TPR replacement bow roller mounts with 1/2" diameter bolt.TPR rollers are extremely cut resistant, soft and gentile, shock absorbing and will not mark your boats hull. These UV resistant rollers will not develop "flat spots" and will outlast ordinary black rubber rollers


----------



## TozerBGood

Best price I can find this yellow roller is here for $2.49 and $6 shipping. I went ahead and ordered it.

http://www.agrisupply.com/product.a...ampaign=asf10&utm_medium=feed&utm_source=feed


----------



## double o

TozerBGood said:


> Best price I can find this yellow roller is here for $2.49 and $6 shipping. I went ahead and ordered it.
> 
> http://www.agrisupply.com/product.a...ampaign=asf10&utm_medium=feed&utm_source=feed


Well i would like to see how you do this. Pictures when your through.:teeth:


----------



## WHITETAIL1000

i just bought one of those miter saw stands at home depot, i got lucky and it only cost me 45.00


----------



## TozerBGood

Here's what I have so far. I was thinking of mounting this on the Stop plate (which in turn mounts on the T-riser). I haven't got my yellow boat-bumber-stop part, but this black round rubber pieces are 3" in width (same as rubber stop).


----------



## NEWYORKHILLBILLY

WHITETAIL1000 said:


> i just bought one of those miter saw stands at home depot, i got lucky and it only cost me 45.00


hows everyone get these deals? seems my home depot is 99.99


----------



## redrod14

How is the riser connected to the shooter could you show a picture


----------



## TozerBGood

redrod14 said:


> How is the riser connected to the shooter could you show a picture


The T-riser is shown in the very first pic in this thread. Here it is again. There's a stop plate that comes with the kit (not shown in the pic) that can mount on the framework of the shooter. There's other pics in this thread where some have used the stop plate. I'll try to find one of those pics and add it to ths post also.









OK...found one. Here is a pic where beastmaster has both T-risers (the kit comes with 2) mounted on the front. The 2nd T-Riser has the stop plate mounted on it. I'm planning on mounting the stop plate onto just one T-riser, then mounting my u-bolt with rubber boat stop to the stop plate instead of the T-Riser itself. (Hope that's not to confusing). When I get it mounted I'll post a pic.


----------



## TozerBGood

It looks to me like L.I. Archer has had to change the angle of the 1" pipe (along with the layers of PVC), which is shown in the first pic. The 2nd pic shows the posting of the new angle, which he did so he could fit older style bows on it.
First Pic








Second Pic









His u-bolts are narrower than mine (at least that's what it looks like to me...maybe he can confirm this if he's willing) and it looks like it may help keep the bow straight up/down - mine are 3" in width, which may be too wide to help keep bow straight up/down.

What I'm hoping is that the combination of the bow resting in the groove between the flanged ends of the rubber boat stop, along with the back pressure from the u-bolt with water hose, that it will help keep bow straight up/down.

With the u-bolts mounted directly on the riser (going through the riser), it make the u-bolts have to be longer. But if I use the black stop plate, the bolts don't have to be as long.

I wish I could find a rubber boat stop that only 2" instead of 3". I may have to keep searching if this doesn't work.

















If the yellow rubber bolt stop idea doesn't work, I can cut the round black rubber cylinders to a shape or width as needed and make the u-bolts narrower than 3" (more similar to L.I.Archer's), but still mount it to he stop plate.


----------



## DssBB

TozerBGood,

If your looking for a solution to being able to use the 3" boat bumper but want a narrower one which will work well and keep your bow somewhat vertical, I would suggest since your going to mount the roller on a 1/2" bolt or rod anyway, then just cut most of the center section out. Once mounted thru center on the bolt the two halves will line up and snug up nicely against the bow grip.
You will just then need to add a removeable rubber support strap (rubber bungy strap cut down) to the front of it to keep the bow supported.


----------



## L.I.Archer

TozerBGood said:


> It looks to me like L.I. Archer has had to change the angle of the 1" pipe (along with the layers of PVC), which is shown in the first pic. The 2nd pic shows the posting of the new angle, which he did so he could fit older style bows on it.
> First Pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second Pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His u-bolts are narrower than mine (at least that's what it looks like to me...maybe he can confirm this if he's willing) and it looks like it may help keep the bow straight up/down - mine are 3" in width, which may be too wide to help keep bow straight up/down.
> 
> What I'm hoping is that the combination of the bow resting in the groove between the flanged ends of the rubber boat stop, along with the back pressure from the u-bolt with water hose, that it will help keep bow straight up/down.
> 
> With the u-bolts mounted directly on the riser (going through the riser), it make the u-bolts have to be longer. But if I use the black stop plate, the bolts don't have to be as long.
> 
> I wish I could find a rubber boat stop that only 2" instead of 3". I may have to keep searching if this doesn't work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the yellow rubber bolt stop idea doesn't work, I can cut the round black rubber cylinders to a shape or width as needed and make the u-bolts narrower than 3" (more similar to L.I.Archer's), but still mount it to he stop plate.


Yep, and it works perfectly now with all bows.


----------



## Daniel AR

Hello friends.
This is Daniel from Argentina.
I will love to have one of those shooting machines , to fine tune , but unfortunately they do not sell those Ryobi , not the Stanley , not the B&D , etc in our place.

Does someone have some kind of drawings that will be usefull for me , to begin the construction , from scratch , I mean , square steel tubes and welding, etc???

Any help will be welcome , that will make the experimentation process less painfull.this will be my proyect for 2011 , and of course , thanks for the help , in advance.
best regards from a hot Buenos Aires.
daniel.


----------



## TozerBGood

Daniel AR said:


> Hello friends.
> This is Daniel from Argentina.
> I will love to have one of those shooting machines , to fine tune , but unfortunately they do not sell those Ryobi , not the Stanley , not the B&D , etc in our place.
> 
> Does someone have some kind of drawings that will be usefull for me , to begin the construction , from scratch , I mean , square steel tubes and welding, etc???
> 
> Any help will be welcome , that will make the experimentation process less painfull.this will be my proyect for 2011 , and of course , thanks for the help , in advance.
> best regards from a hot Buenos Aires.
> daniel.


Daniel - sorry about your dilemna. There are other threads in the DIY section - plenty of other folks have made some with info you want. The big difference here on this thread is none of this requires any welding, or machining, which many of us average blokes don't have available to us. That is why I suspect this particular design has been so popular.


----------



## TozerBGood

L.I.Archer said:


> Yep, and it works perfectly now with all bows.


Hey L.I. Archer - can you tell us the gap distance between your modified shaped u-bolt, as compared to the3" in mine? I would appreciate it. Thanks.


----------



## BackcountryBull

Great ideas TozerBGood!!! Keep your pictures coming when you get your boat roller in. I am very interested in the modifications you make to the roller to get it to work, and than attaching it to the Ryobi.

Thanks!!!


----------



## alleycatdad

So it looks like a few people are putting a lot of effort into improving the bow mount for use as a shooting stand; how is the general success rate with this?

I just threw one of these together as a drawboard and press stand but haven't tried to shoot from it yet since we've still got a foot or two of snow on the range.

I notice that at least one user has inverted the T piece to achieve a more-human-like verticle relationship between the bow grip and the winch (winch above bow grip to achieve something like how we hold bows and shoot); how's this working out for shooting with the bow so close to the ground? Are you raising up the front of the stand to shoot?

I used some ubolts to secure the winch platforms to the rails since they wanted to pull off even with a wimpy 45 lb pull and the supplied clamps screwed down way tight; it's not like I'm gonna move it anyway...

Steve


----------



## MightyElkHntr

Maybee-R said:


> Took this Idea also. Thanks! Im liking the Plastic grip and third axis adjustment also great work guys.


I like how everyone is standing back like they are waiting for the whole thing to explode. Nice looking machine.


----------



## TozerBGood

Got home from work tonight, and my rubber boat stop had arrived. Didn't take long to decide it needed re-shaping. I think I also need to get a narrower u-bolt and drill holes right through the Boat stop and metal pin, so it will snug up against the bow. 
Maybe get some better hose than the white garden type hose also. Gottta quit for the night. Will go back at it later. (Man... if only I could do this kinda stuff for a living, but then I'd probably starve, and the wife would divorce me!)


----------



## peregrine82

If you need the roller narrower just split it and use a different u bolt. I have some stainless rod that would bend perfectly for this application. Rubber automotive hose will work much better than garden hose.


----------



## TozerBGood

peregrine82 said:


> If you need the roller narrower just split it and use a different u bolt. I have some stainless rod that would bend perfectly for this application. Rubber automotive hose will work much better than garden hose.


Yeah I already have a narrower u-bolt that will work. Just need to tap some new holes in the metal pin, and the yellow rubber thingy. I can't call it a boat stop anymore, I suppose could call it the yellow rubber fulcrum (which is way too wordy and just doesn't sound out right). 

Hmmm...it's too difficult to ponder. I give up, what do y'all think it should be called...the YELLOW RUBBER __________????


----------



## Liviu

TozerBGood said:


> I give up, what do y'all think it should be called...the YELLOW RUBBER __________????


WYSIWYG... so call it a Bow Tie... pun intended


----------



## TozerBGood

Liviu said:


> WYSIWYG... so call it a Bow Tie... pun intended


Very clever. I'm going with that (woudn't have thought of that in a million years). Thanks.


----------



## alleycatdad

I still wanna know about people's experience using this as a shooting machine now that you've had 'em for a while...

S


----------



## Tunaboy

*Hoyt bow holder*


----------



## TozerBGood

Looks pretty sweet Tunaboy. Where'd you get that black rubber peice?


----------



## pseshooter300

I am thinking of possibly building one of these can someone maybe give me some examples to how it would benefit me


----------



## Tunaboy

The black rubber is Hockey Puck. Be cautious when cutting, the rubber is pretty grabby. I built a wooden fixture to hold mine.


----------



## MICCOX

Say Steve I am heading to home depot now you have a great mind 
thanks for the id


----------



## TozerBGood

*Finished My Shooter*

Finished my shooter today. The first set of pics is the Destroyer in the shooter using the rubber BowTie mount.









The next pics are of my Katera in the shooter. The Katera won't fit on the Bowie due to the design of the riser. So I layered the 2nd Tee (that came with the Ryobi Miter Stand) with 6 strips of rubberized baseboard material & duct tape, which works pretty well. I haven't tried strapping the bow yet (with stretch ties as many of you have done), but without the stretch tie off, you have to hold your hand by the bow when you shoot it, to keep it from falling off the Tee.










Here's close up pics of the Bow Mounts.










Finally...here's a pic of the grouping. It's pretty obvious that I haven't figured out how to keep the shooter from moving on my deck. The deck is made out of composite, and the shooter slides on it pretty easy. I'll figure out some way to keep it from moving, but in spite of that it still shoots pretty well, and I very quickly dicovered that my Katera is shooting a tear left (as you can see with the 2 bareshaft arrows).

It's funny because I had previously thought I had that rest adjusted pretty well...it just shows that the shooter shoots better than me!











Either way...this shooter is completely awesome. Thanks for coming up with the idea. It will completely change my Bow & Arrow tuning - make it much more accurate!


----------



## TozerBGood

pseshooter300 said:


> I am thinking of possibly building one of these can someone maybe give me some examples to how it would benefit me


It can be used as a draw machine for cam timing/synching (if you also have a press). It also helps you to paper tune with bare shafts (as I showed in the previous post), and helps you to tune your arrows.


----------



## redman

great info i think i am going to try to make one


----------



## joennate

hey this is a great idea, but i have a problem i dont have a home depo where i live but i was looking at lowe's and they have a skill miter saw stand. that looks like it would work and is 99 dallors. has anyone else thought about or see this skill stand i am talking about. and do u think it would work or are there something different that the ryobi does that would make the skill stand not work?

thanks Joe 

any info would help


----------



## carlosii

there's an earllier post where the OP listed a number of alternatives, including the one at Lowe's. Menard's has two models and i'm wondering if the cheaper one would hold up to the demands of being a hooter shooter.


----------



## TozerBGood

joennate said:


> hey this is a great idea, but i have a problem i dont have a home depo where i live but i was looking at lowe's and they have a skill miter saw stand. that looks like it would work and is 99 dallors. has anyone else thought about or see this skill stand i am talking about. and do u think it would work or are there something different that the ryobi does that would make the skill stand not work?
> 
> thanks Joe
> 
> any info would help


 can u post a web pic of the Lowes miter stand? That may help us help u.


----------



## Beastmaster

MICCOX said:


> Say Steve I am heading to home depot now you have a great mind
> thanks for the id


Thanks!


----------



## Beastmaster

carlosii said:


> there's an earllier post where the OP listed a number of alternatives, including the one at Lowe's. Menard's has two models and i'm wondering if the cheaper one would hold up to the demands of being a hooter shooter.


Yes, I did post alternative sources in a prior post. 

I don't know about the cheaper Menards one. 

The Skil one at Lowes appears identical to the Ryobi unit. 

-Steve


----------



## joennate




----------



## joennate

i tryed to get a pic posted of that skill stand but i cant get pic to do anything on this website you can go to www.lowes.com and find the skill stand i am talking about 

Joe


----------



## f4irocket

I had heard years ago that Ryobi and Skil are owned by the same parent company and they are basically the same tools also Ryobi is known for making some of Craftsmans power tools. The only differences i see is a couple pounds on the advertised weight.


----------



## MICCOX

Bump


----------



## TozerBGood

I got home from work today, and I put some anti-slip cloth under the shooter's legs (like you would use in a camper or trailer), and I put a roll of felt paper (which I had already) on top of the shooter to prevent slipping. It improved the Destroyer's grouping considerably. Here's the results shown in the Arrow grouping pics. As you can see the Bow Tie mount with the Destroyer has a much better group. But the Katera seems to still be a problem, which has the duct tape mount. I tried adjusting the rest a a bit to attempt to get the tear left out of it, but ran out of time before it got dark. I believe one of the problems is the funky Drop Zone rest. It have a little play in it, which I'm sure is adding to the inconsistency of the grouping. Once I do that, then I will work on the bow mount if it's still a problem. I may have to add layers to it, to make a deeper valley, and make it more consistent. (I love doing this kind of stuff).

One thing the shooter does very well....it shoots bare shaft arrows very consistent. I'll post some more pics later as I get it worked out.


----------



## alleycatdad

Given some of the tuning issues I've seen which are grip-related, I'm not at all sure that a bow can be effectively tuned on a shooting machine; you may get it perfect for the machine, but how will it shoot for YOU?

Genuinely curious here, not bustin' chops.

I am excited for the wind to stop and the snow to come off the range so that we can start tuning arrows, though!

Steve


----------



## nuts&bolts

alleycatdad said:


> Given some of the tuning issues I've seen which are grip-related, I'm not at all sure that a bow can be effectively tuned on a shooting machine; you may get it perfect for the machine, but how will it shoot for YOU?
> 
> Genuinely curious here, not bustin' chops.
> 
> I am excited for the wind to stop and the snow to come off the range so that we can start tuning arrows, though!
> 
> Steve


Hello Steve:

When you shoot long range groups....
when I'm shooting say 60 yard groups...

a) is it me?
b) is it the arrows?
c) is it the bow arrow rest centershot?
d) is it the bow arrest rest elevation?
e) is it the cam timing?
f) is it the bow tiller?
g) is it the bow stabilizer balance?

A shooting machine will help you dial in items (b) through (g) really fast.

Since it is the machine shooting,
and IF you have the machine setup for repeatability
(legs bolted down or heavily sand bagged)...

you can quickly set arrow rest centershot,
scope windage,
and you can quickly experiment with cam timing,
to get super tight groups.

So,
when you have absolute CONFIDENCE in your equipment...

then,
when YOU try to shoot the same long range groups...

just tweak the cam timing (advance or ******) say 1/2 twist
(to find the sweet spot for how HARD YOU pull into the wall)
and
just tweak the stabilizer system to help cancel out any TORQUE YOU introduce
into the system (using a single or a double rear facing side stabilizer system).

At this point,
I'll fling fletched arrows
and some bareshafts
to help with tuning MY form,
cuz any bareshafts that hit NOCK LEFT or NOCK RIGHT,
are COMPLETELY due to my follow through motion on my release arm.

I will KNOW that with a CLEAN follow through,
the bareshaft will hit parallel to the fletched,
cuz I KNOW that the machine
had the bareshafts hitting parallel to the fletched shafts.

It will SAVE you time.


----------



## TozerBGood

alleycatdad said:


> Given some of the tuning issues I've seen which are grip-related, I'm not at all sure that a bow can be effectively tuned on a shooting machine; you may get it perfect for the machine, but how will it shoot for YOU?
> 
> Genuinely curious here, not bustin' chops.
> 
> I am excited for the wind to stop and the snow to come off the range so that we can start tuning arrows, though!
> 
> Steve


A lot of dealers are doing it to tune peoples bows. Before I learned anything about this, I had taken bows into the dealer to have him do this. The bows always shot well for me. Then when started reading up on how to tune, I tried to do it without a shooter. Needless to say, it took a long time for me because I was inconsistent in my own bareshaft tuning due to whatever reason (torqueing ever so slightly, or releasing inconsistently), and so I would have to shoot several bareshaft arrows to get an average of the direction of tare, before I could make a change. But the shooter is consistent, and doesn't wear my arm out.

I'm sure I need to work on my shooting and form, but for now I'm doing it this way.


----------



## Purka

TozerBGood said:


> I got home from work today, and I put some anti-slip cloth under the shooter's legs (like you would use in a camper or trailer), and I put a roll of felt paper (which I had already) on top of the shooter to prevent slipping. It improved the Destroyer's grouping considerably. Here's the results shown in the Arrow grouping pics. As you can see the Bow Tie mount with the Destroyer has a much better group. But the Katera seems to still be a problem, which has the duct tape mount. I tried adjusting the rest a a bit to attempt to get the tear left out of it, but ran out of time before it got dark. I believe one of the problems is the funky Drop Zone rest. It have a little play in it, which I'm sure is adding to the inconsistency of the grouping. Once I do that, then I will work on the bow mount if it's still a problem. I may have to add layers to it, to make a deeper valley, and make it more consistent. (I love doing this kind of stuff).
> 
> One thing the shooter does very well....it shoots bare shaft arrows very consistent. I'll post some more pics later as I get it worked out.


 A bucket (or two) of water or sand sitting underneath, tied to the main beam with tie down strap or turnbuckle would stop most of the movement.


----------



## TozerBGood

Purka said:


> A bucket (or two) of water or sand sitting underneath, tied to the main beam with tie down strap or turnbuckle would stop most of the movement.


That's what my roll of felt paper did. Works just fine. Stand doesn't move now.


----------



## alleycatdad

Thanks gang. I done lernt sumpthin'!

Steve


----------



## bowmanxx

Cool!


----------



## centershotrob

I've experimented with high speed photography (420 to 1000fps) to see how my bow performs with the mechanical shooter. Changed my "bling" stabilizer and "bling" V bars to an efficient system to achieve perfect balance durring and after the shot. Made another video of the same equipment change with me, the human shooter. Then compaired the videos side by side. Made adjustments to the V bars and balance weigths to compensate for my issues and mimic the movement of the bow similar to mechanical shooter. What a different shooting bow!!! Smooth and balanced shot. Now the big test is with me being such a control freak, letting the bow do its job...


----------



## foldemup

centershotrob said:


> I've experimented with high speed photography (420 to 1000fps) to see how my bow performs with the mechanical shooter. Changed my "bling" stabilizer and "bling" V bars to an efficient system to achieve perfect balance durring and after the shot. Made another video of the same equipment change with me, the human shooter. Then compaired the videos side by side. Made adjustments to the V bars and balance weigths to compensate for my issues and mimic the movement of the bow similar to mechanical shooter. What a different shooting bow!!! Smooth and balanced shot. Now the big test is with me being such a control freak, letting the bow do its job...


Can we see the videos?


----------



## centershotrob

Yep... as soon as I figure out how to link them...High speed comming soon...


----------



## TozerBGood

centershotrob said:


> Yep... as soon as I figure out how to link them...High speed comming soon...


Upload them to youtube. Then to post on AT, get the Youtube video address and paste it between these brackets


----------



## TozerBGood

Got home from work late tonight, and only had a little time to replace my POS Dropzone rest with the Trophy Taker rest. I have not yet adjusted the rest correctly as you can see by the bareshaft arrows. 
However the grouping of the Katera arrows improvement is significant. There was obviously something wrong with the Dropzone. Also, I stopped trying the adjust the bow to get the sight glass bubble level (after it was drawn back). I now just put the bow on the riser, and crank it back, and don't touch it or adjust it. I found that trying to adjust the bow on the shooter while it was drawn back to get the sight level was producing inconsistencys. It tells me that I need to make some changes to the Katera bow mount so the bow will naturally draw back levelled. 

The Destroyer Bow-Tie mount naturally forces the bow to be levelled when you draw it back. It's a better design. I just wish the Katera would fit on it. I may order another boat stop and try to figure out a way to make it work with the Katera.










OK. otta go watch TopShot now! Later.


----------



## TozerBGood

Got home after work and tuned some more on the Katera. This is about as close as I'm going to get it after adjusting the new rest & D-loop. Now I'm ready to install Ex-Wolverine's new Astroflight string.

It's hard to tell in the pic, but the 2 arrows on the farthest left are bareshafts. I'm lucky I didn't do a robinhood. The arrows with the grren nocks were from the Destroyer 2 or 3 days ago. I had left them in the target for reference. 
It was just coincidence that the arrows from the Katera landed so close...that and my not being careful. I kept working my arrows up on the target, as I was twisting the D-Loop, and wasn't paying attention.


----------



## joennate

i have built one of these shooter/drawboard. but i bought the skill at lowes and it works good. love this ideal and thanks for everyone that has posted info and pic, i would post pic of mine but i can't figure out how to do it. would love to show this off to you guys and gals. 

Joe


----------



## redbone311

Just awesome. I'll be building as well. Sticky


----------



## TozerBGood

Ha! I found out yesterday that I'm OCD about archery stuff! And here all along I just thought I was trying to do it right. LOL

Anyways, it has been brought to my attention by another guy who made one of these, and he had observed problems in the right/left direction due to the belt not tracking correctly in the winch. This seems highly likely to me. My belt is tied into a tight knot, and then duct taped so the knot doesn't come apart. What that does is tend to make the belt fold over when it's getting cranked back in when drawing the bow back. I will probably change that and take the duct tape and knot out, and sew it flat (hopefullu it won't break the needle on my wife's sewing machine.

But here's another thought which I'm considering. I'm thinking of buying a 36" Satellite Dish Linear Actuator for $99 on Ebay, and figuring out how to mount on the shooter. I'd have to wire in a manual on/off switch or figgure out how to adjust the limit switches that come with it, for each bow, which may be a bit time consuming, and would probably work better with a manual control.

Of course I'd also have to come up with a transformer to convert 110v AC to the 36vdc required by the actuator. That may be expensive also. Working in an electric shop though....I may just find one for a good price.

Here is one for sale right now on Ebay. It also has $36 shipping, so total cost is $135.
http://cgi.ebay.com/MOTECK-36-HEAVY...424?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a63bbe510

I think that would solve any r/l issues seen with a cable winch...don't you?


----------



## Schpankme

Excellent stuff!


----------



## foldemup

Here's another option for a bow holder that works really well. It is a rod and reel holder that mounts to the side of a boat. Get them at Walmart for less than $10. I have to remount it to get it more midline so it will track midline with the winch over the middle t-bar which will adjust the height of the shooter hand, but you get the idea. And thank you to the original poster of this awesome and cheap DIY shooter/drawboard!


----------



## hunt123

That's a great solution! I'm off to Walmart to see if they have one. The online search didn't show any, but maybe my local store has it. Or I might run down to Dicks also.


----------



## foldemup

hunt123 said:


> That's a great solution! I'm off to Walmart to see if they have one. The online search didn't show any, but maybe my local store has it. Or I might run down to Dicks also.


If anyone decides to try this, let me save you a headache. The threads on the rod holder are not long enough to stick out on both sides of the t-bar. When you drill your hole, use a 5/16" bit to go all the way through. You will have to cut off some of the rubber coating on the solid part close to the threads. The holder will screw perfectly and firmly into the holes you created, however, the solid part will not fit. You will need to make the hole facing away from your winch larger using a 3/8" bit. You will then be able to slide the threads and solid part through the larger hole, then screw the threads through the smaller hole and attach the wingnut firmly to keep the rod/bow holder from tilting left or right. If you make the holes too big, the holder will twist!


----------



## TozerBGood

Looks like you can get them on Amazon if your local Wally World doesn't have it. See it at http://www.amazon.com/Fishing-Holde...H6/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1299993674&sr=8-14
I't quite a bit more than under $10.00 though.

It does look like there's nothing keeping the bow vertical except the tightness of the wing nut.

Also I wonder if a Hoyt would fit on it.


----------



## TozerBGood

Tried putting a laser on my bow today to see if it would help the shooter for doing arrow tuning. Since the shooter by itself isn't consistent enough for arrow tuning IMO. It is good enough for Bareshaft tuning the bow though. So I'm experimenting with a laser sight.

The idea worked pretty good until the laser stopped working. Tried replacing the batteries, but it apparently couldn't handle the shock from shooting the bow.

Here's some pics of it anyways. I made it so you could adjust the laser up/down & right/left with a philips screw driver. That part worked really well. It mounts right where the stabilizer would normally go.

I used a piece of solid oak, cut it into 2 pieces, and drilled undersized holes in the top piece. Then I threaded the bolts through it so you can adjust them. If I was a machinist, I would have done it better...but I'm just a supervisor (LOL).

I'm obviously going to have to get a better laser.











Gonna give this one a try. http://www.amazon.com/BTG-Constant-...EN10/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1299995122&sr=8-7


----------



## Tunaboy

Great idea on the rod holder. I shoot hoyts and this holder would not work with the stock T bar that somes with the Ryobi but I did post a Hoyt holder some where on this post that would adapt easily if this type of mount works out well.


----------



## Tunaboy

*Lazer*

I too had thought about a lazer but never got around to doing it. Please keep us posted as to how it worked out. I did find a green lazer on line somewhere that looked pretty good but was no where $50. I don't remember where but maybe some one here can help.


----------



## TozerBGood

Tunaboy said:


> I too had thought about a lazer but never got around to doing it. Please keep us posted as to how it worked out. I did find a green lazer on line somewhere that looked pretty good but was no where $50. I don't remember where but maybe some one here can help.


Yeah, the green laser I bought is the cheapest one I could find that has a manual on/off switch. I agree it's expensive, but my OCD tendnecies seems to have justified the cost in my own mind. My wife disagrees. (LOL).

I saw your post on your bow holder, and I agree it could probably work with the fishing rod holder as long as you could adjust it so the bow stays vertical in it..










But then my thinking is it would be hard to keep the rod holder vertical without attaching some sort of brace on it with only one shaft tightened with a wing nut, the shock from shooting the bow could cause the holder to turn on it's mounting axis.


----------



## TozerBGood

Also the way Foldemup has mounted it, it seems like the continual shooting of the bow could eventually wear out the hole drilled into the aluminum T-RISER.

(Man that guy has a lot of nice deer mounts. Maybe we could talk him into getting a pic of his shooter showing us the racks on the deer)


----------



## hunt123

TozerBGood said:


> Tried putting a laser on my bow today to see if it would help the shooter for doing arrow tuning. *Since the shooter by itself isn't consistent enough for arrow tuning *IMO. It is good enough for Bareshaft tuning the bow though. So I'm experimenting with a laser sight.


Uh....I haven't read all the recent posts in this thread, but I thought that was the whole point of making the shooter??? Early posts indicated one hole (or close) results. Mine is made, I just haven't tried it out due to weather so I can't comment yet from personal experience.


----------



## TozerBGood

I wonder if this could help mount the rod holder better.









Cabelas sells it for $3.99 http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/prod...%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct.jsp%3FproductId%3D700263

You could thread the rod holder into it, and cinch the wing nut down on it. Just might work.

I bet Wally World has it too. Gonna head over there today.

Also, this one might work with a Hoyt a little better. See it at Cabelas. http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/prod...ctId%3D737744%26dropDownGroupValues%3A0%3D200


----------



## Z-Rocket

great gotta mark this thread


----------



## Tunaboy

Any ideas on how to mount a small set of wheels on the stand? I see many miter stands that have two 4" wheels on one end and a small pull handle on the other end so you can pull the unit on to a job site to set it up. I would like the same wheels so I could take the shooter to the range for testing.


----------



## TozerBGood

Tunaboy said:


> Any ideas on how to mount a small set of wheels on the stand? I see many miter stands that have two 4" wheels on one end and a small pull handle on the other end so you can pull the unit on to a job site to set it up. I would like the same wheels so I could take the shooter to the range for testing.


Yeah. Fletched did something kinda like that on his Hooter Shooter, but not to the extent you are talking about. He just wanted to be able to stabilize it with a little base weight, and be able to roll it around his place.
It might give you some ideas.


----------



## Tunaboy

Actually I am looking for something that would be permanent and mounted on one end so I could roll the unit out on the grass and then set it up at the range so I could do some long distance testing. Next time you go to Menards or Home depot look at the miter stands, many have wheels so the carpenter can leave his miter saw attached and still roll the unit out to where he needs it on the job site before he sets the unit up. Thx for the above pic.


----------



## TozerBGood

Tunaboy said:


> Actually I am looking for something that would be permanent and mounted on one end so I could roll the unit out on the grass and then set it up at the range so I could do some long distance testing. Next time you go to Menards or Home depot look at the miter stands, many have wheels so the carpenter can leave his miter saw attached and still roll the unit out to where he needs it on the job site before he sets the unit up. Thx for the above pic.



It seems like you could get a couple of 2x6's and mount these on them, build a little base frame, and then mount some wheels it. That should solve the stability/shooter movement problem also, so you don't have to hang weight on it.


----------



## hunt123

Tunaboy said:


> Actually I am looking for something that would be permanent and mounted on one end so I could roll the unit out on the grass and then set it up at the range so I could do some long distance testing. Next time you go to Menards or Home depot look at the miter stands, many have wheels so the carpenter can leave his miter saw attached and still roll the unit out to where he needs it on the job site before he sets the unit up. Thx for the above pic.


You could easily drill mounting holes in the bottom of the legs, thread a bolt through a wheel and through the mounting holes. Probably ought to use a threaded rod though so you could put the axle through both legs. That would be more stable for pulling over rough ground than individual axles for each leg.

Actually, platform mounted would be the most stable but the threaded rod suggestion sounds like what you were asking for. Plus it would way easier to haul somewhere.


----------



## TozerBGood

hunt123 said:


> You could easily drill mounting holes in the bottom of the legs, thread a bolt through a wheel and through the mounting holes. Probably ought to use a threaded rod though so you could put the axle through both legs. That would be more stable for pulling over rough ground than individual axles for each leg.
> 
> Actually, platform mounted would be the most stable but the threaded rod suggestion sounds like what you were asking for. Plus it would way easier to haul somewhere.


I was thinking that you want to be able to roll it around on the grass, but may want to easily take the stand off of the base, especially if you had difficulty getting it level while it was on the base. That's why I'm thinking of using these.
Also, might be easier hauling it around in the pickup, to be able to fold up the legs, etc.


----------



## Gary Lee Head

A lot of great and helpful ideas


----------



## animal killer

very nice, i think ill make one of these for my self soon.


----------



## mv2martin

Looks cool gonna build one this weekend.


----------



## foldemup

TozerBGood said:


> Also the way Foldemup has mounted it, it seems like the continual shooting of the bow could eventually wear out the hole drilled into the aluminum T-RISER.
> 
> (Man that guy has a lot of nice deer mounts. Maybe we could talk him into getting a pic of his shooter showing us the racks on the deer)
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> I'm still working on the mounting of the winch. Right now I have as far over on the original Ryobi brackets that I can have it. The rod holder from amazon is NOT the one I got from Walmart. I will try to go back soon and take a picture of the package. I placed the rod holder towards the edge of the t-bar, because I wasn't sure I could get my bow into it with the t-bar so close. The way it sits in the previous picture, the winch strap is not running parrallel to the ryobi, so the strap does not travel over the middle t-bar (which is one of the ways to adjust the height of the shot) for the release hand. I moved the rod holder towards the middle of the t-bar, but my QAD cord was tight against the t-bar at full draw. I got some more changes to try, but I think I will have it figured out soon. The bow does not tilt at all once the bow has tension on the string. And here is the picture of my deer....I'm in Alabama, so we don't grow them like the midwest, but these are respectable Alabama deer.


----------



## Tunaboy

Any idea as to what the thread is on the rod holder? 3/8"-16 maybe? Or metric?


----------



## Unk Bond

TozerBGood said:


> It seems like you could get a couple of 2x6's and mount these on them, build a little base frame, and then mount some wheels it. That should solve the stability/shooter movement problem also, so you don't have to hang weight on it.



============
What are those called. Or did you make them. [ Later


----------



## TozerBGood

foldemup said:


> I'm still working on the mounting of the winch. Right now I have as far over on the original Ryobi brackets that I can have it. The rod holder from amazon is NOT the one I got from Walmart. I will try to go back soon and take a picture of the package. I placed the rod holder towards the edge of the t-bar, because I wasn't sure I could get my bow into it with the t-bar so close. The way it sits in the previous picture, the winch strap is not running parrallel to the ryobi, so the strap does not travel over the middle t-bar (which is one of the ways to adjust the height of the shot) for the release hand. I moved the rod holder towards the middle of the t-bar, but my QAD cord was tight against the t-bar at full draw. I got some more changes to try, but I think I will have it figured out soon. The bow does not tilt at all once the bow has tension on the string. And here is the picture of my deer....I'm in Alabama, so we don't grow them like the midwest, but these are respectable Alabama deer.


They look pretty respectable to me too! Nice!


----------



## TozerBGood

Unk Bond said:


> ============
> What are those called. Or did you make them. [ Later


It's the foot plate supports that came with a carport Canopy I bought at Costco quite a few years back. I never used the foot plates (still have them), but installed the pole frame in some concrete. The tarps have been replaced with corrugated sheets to cover the 5th wheel here in rainy Oregon.

So I still have the foot plates and will use with the shooter frame. They also might be called a post base. That's all I know about them.

But Unk Bond... you could do the same thing with and end of a 2x4 and a hole saw.










But if you just gotta have somethig like it, try this: http://www.gpscity.com/ram-mount-round-2.5-inch-dia-base-with-pvc-pipe-socket.html


----------



## Unk Bond

TozerBGood said:


> It's the foot plate supports that came with a carport Canopy I bought at Costco quite a few years back. I never used the foot plates (still have them), but installed the pole frame in some concrete. The tarps have been replaced with corrugated sheets to cover the 5th wheel here in rainy Oregon.
> 
> So I still have the foot plates and will use with the shooter frame. They also might be called a post base. That's all I know about them.
> 
> But Unk Bond... you could do the same thing with and end of a 2x4 and a hole saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if you just gotta have somethig like it, try this: http://www.gpscity.com/ram-mount-round-2.5-inch-dia-base-with-pvc-pipe-socket.html



==================

Hello ] And thanks for the input and link. [ Later


----------



## Steven Coleman

Very cool and thank you, I'm building one this weekend, but I'm going to try it on a recurve. Got any ideas?


----------



## TozerBGood

Steven Coleman said:


> Very cool and thank you, I'm building one this weekend, but I'm going to try it on a recurve. Got any ideas?


Yeah. On a compound, you can easily watch the draw stops to see when you're at full draw. But on a recurve? You would need to accurately measure full draw length, and mark it on the shooter.

Besides that....what is there to adjust on the recurve besides the nocking point? Do you use a mechanical release on the recurve when you shoot it?


----------



## Tunaboy

*Wheels for shooter*

























Here are some pic's of wheels that I made for the shooter. It works well and I can walk the unit up my basement stairs. All the parts used were things that I already on hand.


----------



## hunt123

Now that's great idea. Put the wheels on the solid part and fold the legs up to haul it around. Much better than putting wheels on the legs.


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## Tunaboy

The wheels are 6" units that are replacement wheels for cheap lawnmowers. The axel is an aluminum tube 1/2"OD. and about 14.5" long. I drilled holes in the axel for cotter keys to keep the wheels in location and used plastic washers under the keys. The mounting block is a piece of industrial plywood about 1.75 thick. This is the stuff that has about 20 plys and is very strong. I cut a V notch in the wood on a table saw a little less than 1/2" deep so when the unit was bolted down the axel would not spin. The crome pull handle was off an old motorcycle. The thing pulls like a golf cart. I want to take the shooter to the range and did not want to carry it from my car and back. It also makes moving it around in the basement easy.


----------



## sjl

How are you guys aiming these things? elevation and windage?


----------



## TooTimer

sjl said:


> How are you guys aiming these things? elevation and windage?


You just have to get it on target. It's not made to shoot bullseyes, it's made to shoot with repeatability. I don't care where on the target it hits, as long as it hits in the same spot. That's why you need to make sure the shooter doesn't move as well as the bow mounted on the shooter. It's also why the bow holder is the most challenging piece to make yourself.


----------



## mikmaze

with this I bet you could site in your bow the way that you site in a scope, target out at twenty yards, fire one arrow....... adjust sites so the site lines up with the hole in the target....... repeat for additional yardage and pins as seen fit.


----------



## Steven Coleman

hey TozerBGood,

thanks for the reply. I was thinking of using a mechinical release, only because I haven't figured out the fingers part yet. I had hoped this shooter could help more with center shot, shaft stiffness, and plunger adjustment, and at the same time you could do a little tiler adjustment. As for draw lenght I was going to us my clicker setting. As a FITA recurve shooter, it is tough putting a small diameter arrow in the gold at 70 meters at under 200 fps. I need all the help I can get.

Thanks again, any other ideas?

Steven


----------



## TozerBGood

Tunaboy said:


> The wheels are 6" units that are replacement wheels for cheap lawnmowers. The axel is an aluminum tube 1/2"OD. and about 14.5" long. I drilled holes in the axel for cotter keys to keep the wheels in location and used plastic washers under the keys. The mounting block is a piece of industrial plywood about 1.75 thick. This is the stuff that has about 20 plys and is very strong. I cut a V notch in the wood on a table saw a little less than 1/2" deep so when the unit was bolted down the axel would not spin. The crome pull handle was off an old motorcycle. The thing pulls like a golf cart. I want to take the shooter to the range and did not want to carry it from my car and back. It also makes moving it around in the basement easy.


Sorry TunaBoy...not good enough. You are simply going to have to put some brakes on it too!
















Just kidding! It looks pretty sweet! I will probably copy you (again)!


----------



## Tunaboy

Toz, remind me to send you some Ben Gay for your sore back from lugging your Shooter around.


----------



## TozerBGood

Tunaboy said:


> Toz, remind me to send you some Ben Gay for your sore back from lugging your Shooter around.


Right on! You'll be the first to know if it becomes a problem!


----------



## TozerBGood

AiiiYiYi! The Laser Sight with the shooter looks like it works too good!!!!
It took a little adjusting to get it sighted in, and the 1st two shots after that did this! I had to stop - it's too expensive.










Here's pics of the sight mounted on the Destroyer & Katera. I made it so you can easily adjust it with a philips screwdriver.


----------



## jim p

It looks like the shooter is tuned in. What kind of laser are you using and what is your aiming procedure?


----------



## TozerBGood

jim p said:


> It looks like the shooter is tuned in. What kind of laser are you using and what is your aiming procedure?


I bought this from the Amazon 2ndary seller for $29. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ils?ie=UTF8&me=&qid=1299995122&sr=8-7&seller=
It has a manual constant on/off switch in the rear.

As far as aiming procedure, I shot the arrow, and then by T&E, I adjusted the screws which I had put on the laser mount, until I got the dot where the arrow landed (while the bow was drawn back).

After I got it set, the next time I shot first one arrow, and on the next arrow, I had the laser dot in the same place & robin hooded the first arrow. This is the first time I have ever robin hooded (for me or the mechanical shooter).


----------



## jim p

I think that you have put it all together now. It really doesn't matter if the shooter moves a little as long as you move it back so that the laser dot is on target. 

I have a green laser so I guess that I need to make a mount for it. I have even thought that it does not matter if the laser is aiming where the arrow hits. If you aim the laser and then go and draw a spot on the target where the laser is aiming then all you would have to do is make sure that the laser was pointed at the same spot each time.

I haven't played with my shooter in a few months but when I was using it a little I found out that my equipment was able to put the arrows in the same hole. When I have to change the equipment I will go and test it to see how it works. It is good to know that the equipment is working and if there is a miss that it is my fault.


----------



## Tunaboy

I know that I have mentioned this before but I found that by hanging 30# of weight under each set of legs made my shooter very repeatable. I do like the lazer idea.


----------



## hunt123

Tunaboy said:


> I know that I have mentioned this before but I found that by hanging 30# of weight under each set of legs made my shooter very repeatable. I do like the lazer idea.


The OP didn't even need the weight. Check out his pics on page 1. One hole groups and said it was accurate out to 20 yds. He's only got foam and duct tape for a bow holder. I do plan to use weight on mine though when I start using it.


----------



## Tunaboy

Another issue: I have a release on my shooter mounted the same way everyone else does. I find that I need to be very careful when I pull the trigger to make sure that I don't put side pressure on the release. Side presure moves the release slightly from side to side away from being directly behind the arrow. Any ideas on how to lock the release in place so you don't have side presure issues?


----------



## hunt123

Tunaboy said:


> Another issue: I have a release on my shooter mounted the same way everyone else does. I find that I need to be very careful when I pull the trigger to make sure that I don't put side pressure on the release. Side presure moves the release slightly from side to side away from being directly behind the arrow. Any ideas on how to lock the release in place so you don't have side presure issues?


Put a long string on the trigger and pull straight back?


----------



## TozerBGood

Tunaboy said:


> Another issue: I have a release on my shooter mounted the same way everyone else does. I find that I need to be very careful when I pull the trigger to make sure that I don't put side pressure on the release. Side presure moves the release slightly from side to side away from being directly behind the arrow. Any ideas on how to lock the release in place so you don't have side presure issues?


Tuna - is the problem the release, or is it the winch strap putting in inconsistent side torque? Some people replaced the strap with a rope, and put an Eyebolt between the winch and the bow, and ran the rope through it to the release, to get consistent right/left. I haven't tried this because mine doesn't seem to be that much of a problem.


----------



## TozerBGood

I think this guy has a pretty slick set up. He posted this pic earlier in this thread. It looks to me like there is no side torque on the release.
He probably has to keep those slides well lubed I suspect. Note the little sighting monocular mounted at top right (or is that a laser?).

Hey Tuna, you should send him some Ben Gay too!


----------



## Deer Eliminator

I don't have to lube the sides at all TozerBGood it has commercial felt on the bow holder so it doesn't grab the bow. There is no laser on it yet but will be. The whole shooter only weighs 30lbs, and has worked flawlessly for two years. Same arrow same hole repeatably.


----------



## TozerBGood

Deer Eliminator said:


> I don't have to lube the sides at all TozerBGood it has commercial felt on the bow holder so it doesn't grab the bow. There is no laser on it yet but will be. The whole shooter only weighs 30lbs, and has worked flawlessly for two years. Same arrow same hole repeatably.
> View attachment 1033647
> View attachment 1033648


I was talking about the slides, not the sides. They look pretty shiny, that's why I was wondering. 

Do you have close-up pics of how the release mounts? And also how do you keep the pipe from turning in the threads on the slide between the pipe Tees?

Also, what is your slide pipe made out of?

30Lbs including the black frame??? Is it made out of aluminum?

I may want to build one of these for our club range.


----------



## Deer Eliminator

It is just a simple machine but it has worked flawlessly for over 2years. Many of bows have been in it. It has also shot out to 90yards with no problem. No torque on the bow as far as I have seen for 2years of use. 

Hutch


----------



## TozerBGood

Deer Eliminator said:


> View attachment 1033650
> View attachment 1033651
> 
> It is just a simple machine but it has worked flawlessly for over 2years. Many of bows have been in it. It has also shot out to 90yards with no problem. No torque on the bow as far as I have seen for 2years of use.
> 
> Hutch


That is sweet! It looks like those slide pipes are made out of aluminum electrical conduit perhaps?


----------



## Deer Eliminator

TozerBGood said:


> I was talking about the slides, not the sides. They look pretty shiny, that's why I was wondering.
> 
> Do you have close-up pics of how the release mounts? And also how do you keep the pipe from turning in the threads on the slide between the pipe Tees?
> 
> Also, what is your slide pipe made out of?
> 
> 30Lbs including the black frame??? Is it made out of aluminum?
> 
> I may want to build one of these for our club range.


I can send you plans pm me your email. The black frame is made out of electrical pipe that is sold at home depot. It weighs very little. I don't lube the rails at all since the tee's have been filed out, it slides very with no hang ups.

Hutch


Hutch


----------



## Deer Eliminator

Also I have had over 200 people ask for the plans. Several have sent me pics. Some have made little changes. But for the most they are working well as far as I know. 


Hutch


----------



## TozerBGood

Deer Eliminator said:


> I can send you plans pm me your email. The black frame is made out of electrical pipe that is sold at home depot. It weighs very little. I don't lube the rails at all since the tee's have been filed out, it slides very with no hang ups.
> 
> Hutch
> 
> 
> Hutch


PM sent. Can't pass that offer up!


----------



## TozerBGood

Hutch also has a video of how his shooter works. For anyone interested, you can see the video at http://s745.photobucket.com/albums/xx94/Hutchnsonarchery/?action=view&current=101_2268.mp4

It looks like a good design, but you do need to know how to weld to make it.


----------



## Deer Eliminator

This is another one Robert F built from my plans. He added some alterations. 




















Hutch


----------



## TozerBGood

I tried to take Foldemup's idea of the Walmart fishing rod mount, and combine it with Hutch's idea of using eyebolts to ensure bow is level. I'm calling it the Foldemup-Hutch bow mount. I almost got t finished but ran insto a roadblock. I cut the bottom part off the Fishing rod holder cause it was in the for for the Katera Hoyt riser, and it didn't really serve a necessary function. So off it came. Then in order to get he bow onto the mount with the cables behind the mounting pipe, I had to shorten the length of the Walmart fishing rod holder, and threaded the shaft up to the base (note I also used Tunaboy's idea of using a set screw on the rod holder). But I made a fatal flaw. I cut the Walmart shaft to short, because the back part of the Katera riser hits the pipe now. I need to get another fishing rod mount and re-thread it, only cut it not quite as short,and it should work. It's gonna have to wait until next weekend before I can get back to it.


----------



## TozerBGood

I do have another fishing rod mount that might work, but it's a different design, and the one from Walmart is a better design (I think).


----------



## straddleridge

*my bow hand*

Have had the same problems as most - biggest problem is the hand. I will show my approach. I have about 2" of horizontal and vertical fine screw adjusment. I have not tried it outside my garage but 3 5 yard shots at a bag target in the same hole put the field tip into my garage door.


----------



## IDABOW

Finally! I just came home from Home Despot with the Ryobi Stand. Having read all the improvements, have we come to a consensus on a repeatable grip? I literally have headache from reading all of this.

I have the stand, my 2000lb worm gear winch with some 500 lb 3/8" nylon rope from my current draw board. What else do I need?

By the way the worm gear is slow but very precise. You don't need the brake that a ratchet winch needs to stop, or reverse the draw.


----------



## TozerBGood

So I went a got another Walmart Fish Rod Holder, and completed the design. Here's a couple of pics. Without the use of the laser however, this mount design is worse than the other 2. The bow doesn't naturally come to rest at the same spot as the other 2 mouning designs. The laser (once it's sighted in) seems to work the best for consistency.

But as far as bow mounts are concerned, the Boat Stop idea seems to work the best. I may try to figure out how to put the boat stop on this mount instead of teh Walmart fish holder. The side adjustment Eyebolts looks like it works pretty well, I just think the fish rod holder doesn't. Not even sure of that yet, until I experiment some more. 

There was so much play in the fish rod holder, I tried putting duct tapeon, which did help. But it's still not as good as the otehrs yet. Working on it.


----------



## Rick9

Here is what I have found to be the best option for the bow holder
Two bolts with a padded plate and wing nuts to hold the bow tight against the wooden bar (small enough diameter to go into the throat of the grip) that I've added to the metal tube.
Two adjustable positioners just below the holder to secure the bow grip side to side
Another adjustable positioner, lower down, to control the lean of the bow and adjust the bow to match the bubble on the sight. - This adjuster has a bungee to hold the bow grip against it.
This system works for regular bows and Hoyts with the tech riser. (you have to turn the tech riser to fit on the system then no worries. 
[/ATTACH]


----------



## TozerBGood

On an after thought, I took the adjustment screws off, and that helps to bow come to the same point better when drawn back without the adjusters. 

But what does really work is the laser. Once that thing is set, using the same arrow, that arrow goes to where that dot is pointing...every single time. It takes a little while to adjust the laser, but once it's adjusted...it definitely works. I should probably patent it, but I suspect someone already has.

Anyways, with the laser, this shooter can be used as an arrow tuner, but without the laser, it's only good for a d-loop & rest tuner and a draw board (IMO). The way you have to do it is mark how far from the dot the arrows land, and then turn the nocks until they land true.

And then test Broad Heads. That's what I'll be doing tomorrow.

And then I will put some wheels on it and take it out to the range.


----------



## TozerBGood

Rick9 said:


> Here is what I have found to be the best option for the bow holder
> Two bolts with a padded plate and wing nuts to hold the bow tight against the wooden bar (small enough diameter to go into the throat of the grip) that I've added to the metal tube.
> Two adjustable positioners just below the holder to secure the bow grip side to side
> Another adjustable positioner, lower down, to control the lean of the bow and adjust the bow to match the bubble on the sight. - This adjuster has a bungee to hold the bow grip against it.
> This system works for regular bows and Hoyts with the tech riser. (you have to turn the tech riser to fit on the system then no worries.
> [/ATTACH]


Looks pretty sweet Rick9.


----------



## TozerBGood

Here's some more pics of the Laser.


----------



## Tunaboy

If you look back you will see the bow holder that I made from a hockey puck. I did this becasue I shoot Hoyt and the other holders were too bulky. This holder is repetable. The only issue is that the bubble on my bow sight is not exactly centered but the shooter shoots very repetable. I have not looked into ways to allow adjustment but if I get repetable shots do I have to have the sight level centered? The bow holder seems to be the most critical part of the shooter.


----------



## peregrine82

Deer Eliminator said:


> View attachment 1033650
> View attachment 1033651
> 
> It is just a simple machine but it has worked flawlessly for over 2years. Many of bows have been in it. It has also shot out to 90yards with no problem. No torque on the bow as far as I have seen for 2years of use.
> 
> Hutch


 This is a great design, the proof is the repeatability you have had for two years. I am looking forward to getting mine outdoors to test at distance. I can only hope it works as well as yours. Thanks for posting.


----------



## hunt123

Rick9 said:


> Here is what I have found to be the best option for the bow holder
> Two bolts with a padded plate and wing nuts to hold the bow tight against the wooden bar (small enough diameter to go into the throat of the grip) that I've added to the metal tube.
> Two adjustable positioners just below the holder to secure the bow grip side to side
> Another adjustable positioner, lower down, to control the lean of the bow and adjust the bow to match the bubble on the sight. - This adjuster has a bungee to hold the bow grip against it.
> This system works for regular bows and Hoyts with the tech riser. (you have to turn the tech riser to fit on the system then no worries.
> [/ATTACH]


Really like that method. Particularly the positioner that controls the lean. I'm going to have to set that up on mine.

What's odd is that the OP just used foam and duct tape and didn't have any problem getting repeatable results. How come everyone else is having to work so hard on it? Don't know, just asking. I haven't started shooting mine yet.


----------



## TozerBGood

Tunaboy said:


> If you look back you will see the bow holder that I made from a hockey puck. I did this becasue I shoot Hoyt and the other holders were too bulky. This holder is repetable. The only issue is that the bubble on my bow sight is not exactly centered but the shooter shoots very repetable. I have not looked into ways to allow adjustment but if I get repetable shots do I have to have the sight level centered? The bow holder seems to be the most critical part of the shooter.


I agree tuna. If your arrow goes to same hole with hockey puck, that is the easiest way. I've only been able to do that with the boat roller mount.


----------



## joaxe

hunt123 said:


> Really like that method. Particularly the positioner that controls the lean. I'm going to have to set that up on mine.
> 
> What's odd is that the OP just used foam and duct tape and didn't have any problem getting repeatable results. How come everyone else is having to work so hard on it? Don't know, just asking. I haven't started shooting mine yet.


I was wondering the same thing... So, does the foam roller/duct tape "bow holder" not offer repeatable results for mostly everyone and is that why other designs have surfaced? Like hunt123, I haven't yet put mine together but was just wondering if I need to improve the holder right off the bat for my bow.

Joe


----------



## TozerBGood

hunt123 said:


> Really like that method. Particularly the positioner that controls the lean. I'm going to have to set that up on mine.
> 
> What's odd is that the OP just used foam and duct tape and didn't have any problem getting repeatable results. How come everyone else is having to work so hard on it? Don't know, just asking. I haven't started shooting mine yet.





joaxe said:


> I was wondering the same thing... So, does the foam roller/duct tape "bow holder" not offer repeatable results for mostly everyone and is that why other designs have surfaced? Like hunt123, I haven't yet put mine together but was just wondering if I need to improve the holder right off the bat for my bow.
> 
> Joe


My experience with the foam & duct tape is it's not repeatable enough for hitting exact same hole every time with same arrow. Maybe the OP did better. But that's what you need if you want to use it for arrow tuning. I've only been able to achieve that using a laser. Tunaboy seems to get that with the hocky puck, but I doubt anyone else on this thread would make that claim.

I should probably make some video of mine.


----------



## BMG

I will be building my Ryobi shooter soon. The one area that I am concerned about is the bow support/handle. Personally I think this needs to be kept as simple as possible (k.i.s.s principle) and *solid*. 

Does any one have a few up close pics of this area on the Hooter Shooter? I am guessing that it will be some sort of very hard plastic (umhw maybe teflon) that does not have any give to it.


----------



## Tunaboy

I have see pics of the bow holder form a real Hooter shooter and if you don't have access to a machine shop making one would be tuff. That said the bow holder on the H/S is very nice and adjustable but I cannot afford one. I have less than $100 in to my Ryobi shooter and it works well and is a welcome addition to my shop for that amount of cash. Remember to kick the legs out against the stops and extra weight helped me alot as well.


----------



## TozerBGood

BMG said:


> I will be building my Ryobi shooter soon. The one area that I am concerned about is the bow support/handle. Personally I think this needs to be kept as simple as possible (k.i.s.s principle) and *solid*.
> 
> Does any one have a few up close pics of this area on the Hooter Shooter? I am guessing that it will be some sort of very hard plastic (umhw maybe teflon) that does not have any give to it.


----------



## TozerBGood

Ha! Ran across this pic where someone did a similar idea, only they modified their $600 EZ Press.
I only think they're using it as a draw board...not a shooter.


----------



## TozerBGood

Here's some pics of Ideas I have seen suggested on another excellent thread where some real engineers are designing one - not just homeboys like us. 

See the onging thread here: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1367402&highlight=draw+board

1st: Here's a close-up pic of a Spott Hogg - is that a "Low Wrist" mount?









And some concept ideas all of which require a machine shop it looks like to me








High Wrist








Low Wrist

























But I think the problem is not just in the mounting design, it's also in the way the Ryobi method is drawing the bow back using a strap or cable with a release mounted to it, as opposed to having the release mounted on a slide like the spot hogg.


----------



## TozerBGood

Ha! It looks like even Engineers can Goof! Now that's funny! I think we just need to get Hoyt to change their stupid reflex riser. Right.









And get a load of this contraption.


----------



## TozerBGood

This mount looks nice.


----------



## TozerBGood

And then there is this from quikshooter (originally posted by Meyerske earlier in this very thread)


----------



## TozerBGood

*Video from Spot Hogg on their Mechanical Shooter*

If y'all haven't seen this video yet, I strongly recommend. It really shows how to do arrow tuning, and also reveals somewhat how the Spot Hogg shooter is designed.






Hope it helps.


----------



## IDABOW

Well I put the stand together. I just used a bungi cord to hold the bow to the round tee. Took it out to shoot @ 40yds. I took an old bowstring and put one loop around the trigger of my little bitty goose, and pulled straight back. Zipped the arrow into the target. 

Shot it 4 more times, just playing with pulling the trigger steady. My last 2 shots were touching! This was in a steady 20 mph crosswind. I did use 2 20 lb dumbells on top of the stand to hold it down. I can see the laser idea working to keep the bow shooting in the same spot. I'll get a repeatable handle figured out, but I am impressed! Can't wait to try BH tuning with this!


----------



## Garceau

A note about the laser idea - I was thinking the same thing as I read through the first 15 or so pages before it was brought up.

It really doesnt necessarily have to be at point of impact of the arrow. It just has to be in the same spot - you could just put a mark on the target and aim it at that. Doesnt really matter where the arrows hit in relation to that except they are all grouped well.

I am getting back into 3D shooting after being gone for 11 years while I toured the country trying to drag race and went broke....LOL 

Seriously looking at this set up.


----------



## Bntarrw

Awesome post that is so COOL!!!!!!!!!. I will have one of these in my setup. THANKS


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## IDABOW

The laser just gives you a verifiable, repeatable, "aiming point" to insure the bow and or machine hasn't moved. This will be alot of fun this summer.


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## Garceau

TozerBGood said:


> That is sweet! It looks like those slide pipes are made out of aluminum electrical conduit perhaps?



Thats wha I was kind of wondering myself -


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## Garceau

Im going to try something a little different on Hutch's plans.

the release mount/hook/slide - I will just call a "sled"

I have ordered a piece of Delrin, and will mount the cable to that, as well as the release set up. Should seriously resist any type of binding from friction etc.

However with the linear slide set up of if, Im going to take it in and get it drilled. For the 25 bucks it cost for the chunk of delrin I really dont want to screw it up.


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## TozerBGood

Well I made another attempt at a bow mount that should work for any bow. It seems to have improved the variation of the shots as well, but I think you still need the laser if you want to use for Arrow tuning.

I use some of my left over composite decking material, to shape a bow mount. I used a spindle sander to sand in the "U" shape in the maount. I also added a shaped piece of composite decking under the mount with adjustment screws for added stability. And then finally I got rid of the belt, and replaced with rope and an eyebolt for alighnment on the rope & release. the grouping was better, arrows were touching eachother, but there is still an off shot now and then...it's not perfect.


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## TozerBGood

If anyone has any ideas to improve it I would apreciate it. I'm about out of any more ideas, and most of the ones I had, I got from the rest of you guys.

Well actually I do have one more Idea, and that is to move the eye bolt guide & bow mount closer to the winch, to help reduce any error due to the bow sticking way out there. Basically just shorten the whole thing up. The eyebolt is the minimum distance from the bow to allow for 32" draw. My own DL is 30".

Anyways, I will try that later and see if it helps.


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## BackcountryBull

What kind of rope did you use? I need to get some pictures up of mine. Still haven't shot it quite yet...but the concept of mine looks like it would work great.


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## hunt123

An off shot now and then...maybe the arrow? What if you only used one arrow, the same one all the time. How close to one hole would you be getting and would you still get a flyer? 

Kind of a pain to run out 20 yds and get your arrow after each shot, but probably the only way to determine if it's an arrow or shooter problem.


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## Rock Steady

hunt123 said:


> An off shot now and then...maybe the arrow? What if you only used one arrow, the same one all the time. How close to one hole would you be getting and would you still get a flyer?
> 
> Kind of a pain to run out 20 yds and get your arrow after each shot, but probably the only way to determine if it's an arrow or shooter problem.


Just look at the bow he is using, could explain everything:smile: (disclaimer: this was a joke:smile


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## tooks

I know it's probably a stupid question, but why would you use those.
I don't see the point.
But it's a really cool machine, kind of stuff I like to conceptualize. cool built!


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## Beastmaster

tooks said:


> I know it's probably a stupid question, but why would you use those.
> I don't see the point.
> But it's a really cool machine, kind of stuff I like to conceptualize. cool built!


Welcome to AT ! I notice that this is your first post.

There are multiple reasons why you use a mechanical shooter. For myself, I use it for:

1) Checking timing.
2) Checking arrow flight.
3) showing customers that their bow is shooting fine
4) drawing back bows that are suspect. I'd rather have the bow go "boom" on the mechanical shooter than in my (or another tech's) hand.

-Steve


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## TozerBGood

Rock Steady said:


> Just look at the bow he is using, could explain everything:smile: (disclaimer: this was a joke:smile


Ha! Good point Rock. I like the D350 better. But I did take that Katera XL on a 3D shoot saturday (first one for that bow) and was simply nailing those bullseyes! Still... I sure do hate that bridge arm that goes behind the grip (part of the riser - I don't know what they call that). I understand that Hoyt claims it helps reduce flex-torque, but it sure does get in the way of the bow mount on the shooter.

This is my first Hoyt BTW, and is a sort of experiment on my part for a longer ATA/BH bow, but still a hunting bow. I expect to sell it before long (haven't decided yet), and get a DS-3800. Either way, it's a good shooter.


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## TozerBGood

hunt123 said:


> An off shot now and then...maybe the arrow? What if you only used one arrow, the same one all the time. How close to one hole would you be getting and would you still get a flyer?
> 
> Kind of a pain to run out 20 yds and get your arrow after each shot, but probably the only way to determine if it's an arrow or shooter problem.


Well that's a good question. I shot the same arrow last night and most of the time the arrow hit within an inch or less, but would sometime go farther. I wasn't using the laser...just trying to perfect the shooter. If I get some time I'll post some more pics.


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## tooks

thank you very much for those clarification.
it make sense now.


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## TozerBGood

BackcountryBull said:


> What kind of rope did you use? I need to get some pictures up of mine. Still haven't shot it quite yet...but the concept of mine looks like it would work great.


Good point BackCountry - yellow poly rope - that could be a problem in itself due to stretch possibly? I don't know. Seems like it shouldn't be a problem to me. Some people have used steel cable I know.


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## TozerBGood

tooks said:


> thank you very much for those clarification.
> it make sense now.


Here's my rather lengthy answer.
Have you have ever done any bare shaft paper tuning on your compound bow(s)? I like to use the method explained in the Easton tuning guide where you start shooting bare shafts at 6-10 ft from the paper, and then move on out to 15 yds, and adjust the D-loop for up/down adjustments, and move the rest for left/right adjustments. If you get it to where the bow is shooting bullet holes at 15 yds, and the fletched arrows land in close to the same spot as the bare shafts at 15 yds...that is a correctly adjusted bow. When it's set up like this, your field tips and broad heads should fly the same also (theroetically - not always the case - but is usually true). 

Sometimes I have found that to get to that spot the rest may be too far off from centerline (too far left or right) and that's when it's good to have a fixed split yoke on the cable so you can give a little twist on one side, and an untwist on the other to get your cam(s) to lean the way you need it, to attain center shot on the rest. The reason you do this is because your bow becomes more efficient when it is shooting bullets down a center aligned rest, and arrow flight is much straighter. It makes a significant difference on arrow penetration. I have found by experience that you can actually gain 5 to 10 fps in arrow speed simply by tuning the bow properly.

One of the difficulties of bare shaft tuning at 15yds is due to any torque on the bow when shooting, or releasing badly, or any flinching...all can make a bare shaft fly with a tear left/right or up/down, causing inconsistent results. And so bare shaft tuning can be very time consuming, and wear your arm out in the process, because you have to take an average of shots to be sure before you actually make an adjustment.

That's where a mechanical shooter comes in very handy. Because a shooting machine doesn't torque the bow, doesn't release bad...it takes the human factor out of the equation, and makes it very easy to tune your bow, without wearing out your arm. Also, if you are a dealer for instance...and a customer brings in a left handed bow, and wants you to tune it (or change string/cables), and it just happens to be set at 70 or 80 Lbs! A very good reason to have a mechanical shooter.


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## Tunaboy

*Bow Holder*



















Hey Toz, Here are some photos of the hockey puck holder. Where do I send my $100 for that old Katera of yours? Glad to see that you are trying to refine the shooter.


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## hunt123

Tunaboy said:


> View attachment 1045557
> View attachment 1045558
> View attachment 1045559
> Hey Toz, Here are some photos of the hockey puck holder. Where do I send my $100 for that old Katera of yours? Glad to see that you are trying to refine the shooter.


Can't remember if you posted earlier on how you cut it out. I'm guessing a bandsaw, then something like a 1" round file in a drill to refine it?


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## Tunaboy

No I cut some of it on a table saw and drilled the hole with a forestner bit on an angle. I built a wooden fixture to hold the puck. It was bolted down with screws. If you try to cut one please make a fixture. The rubber gets grabby when you cut it. The radius on the top edge was done with a router table.


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## hunt123

Tunaboy said:


> No I cut some of it on a table saw and drilled the hole with a forestner bit on an angle. I built a wooden fixture to hold the puck. It was bolted down with screws. If you try to cut one please make a fixture. The rubber gets grabby when you cut it. The radius on the top edge was done with a router table.


OK thanks. Good tip on the fixture.


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## TozerBGood

Tunaboy said:


> View attachment 1045557
> View attachment 1045558
> View attachment 1045559
> Hey Toz, Here are some photos of the hockey puck holder. Where do I send my $100 for that old Katera of yours? Glad to see that you are trying to refine the shooter.


Well you know where you can stuff your $100. That puppy shoots gud


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## P&y only

Well, you guys finally sucked me into this. I put mine together today. I'm just waiting on my bow holder to dry. I'm wondering if you guys think it will work ok. Here's what i did: I used a radius tracer and pushed it into the grip of my bow. Then i traced the radius onto a 2x4. I cut on the outside of the lines so it wouldn't bind on the bow. Then I sprayed it with the rubber coating stuff you put on plier handles. I'm waiting for this to dry right now. I can drill two holes in the steel plate that comes with the unit that adjusts on the roller. I realize this will only work for this particular bow, but 6 inches of 2x4 doesn't cost much so i could make a separate board for each bow brand i might be working on. I am planning on mounting a flat bungy strap two the two ends of the board to keep the bow from falling out. If it works, I'll get pictures up. Anything wrong with this plan? Oh yeah, I had to cut the 2x4 down some so it would fit inside the cables.


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## TozerBGood

P&y only said:


> Well, you guys finally sucked me into this. I put mine together today. I'm just waiting on my bow holder to dry. I'm wondering if you guys think it will work ok. Here's what i did: I used a radius tracer and pushed it into the grip of my bow. Then i traced the radius onto a 2x4. I cut on the outside of the lines so it wouldn't bind on the bow. Then I sprayed it with the rubber coating stuff you put on plier handles. I'm waiting for this to dry right now. I can drill two holes in the steel plate that comes with the unit that adjusts on the roller. I realize this will only work for this particular bow, but 6 inches of 2x4 doesn't cost much so i could make a separate board for each bow brand i might be working on. I am planning on mounting a flat bungy strap two the two ends of the board to keep the bow from falling out. If it works, I'll get pictures up. Anything wrong with this plan? Oh yeah, I had to cut the 2x4 down some so it would fit inside the cables.


2x4 is a good idea. Will be waiting on pics!


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## P&y only

After setting mine up and i haven't shot it yet. I want to add a couple things to the mix. I'm gonna mount a laser pointer on a cheap stabilizer to screw into the bow being shot. That should let me get a point of aim that stays consistant. And I need to figure out a way to raise and lower the back end of the shooter such as a jack or some bolt type thing so i cab get the laser back on target easily. I am planning to use this for long range tuning. I think it will do great things when i get mine the way i want it. This was an awesome idea. Thanks to the Op!


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## P&y only

Here we go. First, I'd like to thank the OP again. I expected this to be cool. But it is actually Un friggenbelievable! I'm not done tweaking mine yet. The laser is a must for me. But here's some pics of the bowholder i made. I wasn't happy with the spray on rubber so i sanded it smooth and glued on some tennis racket wrap. I didn't do a pretty job cause i wanted to get shooting. It works great. If i make ones for other bows it will take me about 30 seconds to change them out.


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## P&y only

And then, the tuning began. Finally i thought it was good to go. So out came my hunting arrows. One field point. one broadhead. Dumb me. I shot the field point first. The broadhead then commenced to shaving off two of my three fletchings off the field point! I love this thing! I'll throw in a pic of the old arrow launcher too. Unbelievable. Get ya one!


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## hunt123

P&y only said:


> And then, the tuning began. Finally i thought it was good to go. So out came my hunting arrows. One field point. one broadhead. Dumb me. I shot the field point first. The broadhead then commenced to shaving off two of my three fletchings off the field point! I love this thing! I'll throw in a pic of the old arrow launcher too. Unbelievable. Get ya one!


Man, that's great! You didn't complicate it all up but kept it simple and it works. What distance were you shooting?


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## P&y only

It was windy here today but i put 5 in a tennis ball at 75 yards. Call me a liar I don't care. I will be seeing what she can do as soon as this weather behaves. 27 tornadoes north of me last night.


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## Tunaboy

That is great @ 75 yards no less. I have not been able to get mine outside yet but have wondered about long distance shooting. It looks like you shoot out of your garage. Must be nice. I put wheels on mine but looks like you don't need them.


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## hunt123

P&y only said:


> Here we go. First, I'd like to thank the OP again. I expected this to be cool. But it is actually Un friggenbelievable! I'm not done tweaking mine yet. *The laser is a must for me.*


What laser are you using to get it to show up at 75 yds in the daytime?


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## P&y only

hunt123 said:


> What laser are you using to get it to show up at 75 yds in the daytime?


That's the best part. I don't have the laser yet. After I added 2 buckets full of water hanging on the bars. A car battery hanging off the back. Then i actually sat on the damn thing and then it didn't move. Ride em cowboy worked pretty good. I believe I'll get some lead bars or bags of shot so i don't have to look like a fool sitting on it. I have a few alterations I'm going to make. And when I'm done, look out. I will get it right and then post some pics. I have a dark old building i can shoot in up to 50 yards so i really want the laser . It will make a big difference i believe. Did you notice the cordless drill? My worm drive winch was wayyyy too slow. The drill works great!


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## hunt123

P&y only said:


> That's the best part. I don't have the laser yet. After I added 2 buckets full of water hanging on the bars. A car battery hanging off the back. Then i actually sat on the damn thing and then it didn't move. Ride em cowboy worked pretty good. I believe I'll get some lead bars or bags of shot so i don't have to look like a fool sitting on it. I have a few alterations I'm going to make. And when I'm done, look out. I will get it right and then post some pics. I have a dark old building i can shoot in up to 50 yards so i really want the laser . It will make a big difference i believe. Did you notice the cordless drill? My worm drive winch was wayyyy too slow. The drill works great!


Didn't see the drill..had to go back and look. Great idea. So it looks like the two keys to your success so far are: LOTS of weight and a tight bow holder. I can't imagine how you could modify it to improve what you already got if that photo was the results from 70 yds. It might have been "one hole" if you had used the same arrow on both shots.


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## Tunaboy

I usually take a piece of paper and trap it between the cam and the stop to make sure that the draw is consistant from shot to shot. Any better ideas on how to insure that the bow is drawn to the exact same place each time? PS went to an hockey game today and got a stray puck over the glass, might have to make another bow holder.


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## fishuntbike

When you shoot this shooter, dont you need a windage and elevation adjustment for this or just plainly move the machine? If elevation is to be adjusted for the bow to shoot higher dont you move the winch too in order to have a square/ straight pull? Not sure how others do thier adjustment, pls help. thanks


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## fishuntbike

I have not shot my shooter yet and I'm still in the tweaking mode (may do windage/elevation adjustment for the bow and winch mount) anyways here's what I came up with. The bow holder was made from a boating accessories (V-bow mount $8.99) available from Bass Pro Shop. Hope to help others specifically using QAD drop away rest. And bow press project on-going too. Thanks to all creators of these Best Archery DIY projects.


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## hunt123

fishuntbike said:


> When you shoot this shooter, dont you need a windage and elevation adjustment for this or just plainly move the machine? If elevation is to be adjusted for the bow to shoot higher dont you move the winch too in order to have a square/ straight pull? Not sure how others do thier adjustment, pls help. thanks


Just move the machine. It's a basic machine that works well. But it has all kinds of modification possibilities if someone wants to add on elevation and windage controls. I don't think there's enough elevation movement in the vertical shaft to cause a pull problem. But even if there was a slight amount it wouldn't matter because it would be exactly repeatable. Exact repeatability is what this machine is for.


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## Beastmaster

fishuntbike said:


> When you shoot this shooter, dont you need a windage and elevation adjustment for this or just plainly move the machine? If elevation is to be adjusted for the bow to shoot higher dont you move the winch too in order to have a square/ straight pull? Not sure how others do thier adjustment, pls help. thanks


For me, I move the machine left/right (sighting through the peep/pin combination) for windage. For elevation, I either adjust the back T shaped unit up or down. Up - lowers the elevation (raising the rear), down - raises the elevation.


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## Beastmaster

On a side note - I'm pretty impressed with the add ons. I never thought that this would take off like it did!


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## fishuntbike

All this add ons will not be there without your original creation...thanks Beastmaster.


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## RatherBArchery

*Draw board*

I am thinking of taking some of these idea's and adding them to my press to build a drawboard for my club.
I will make the attachments side into the 1 1/2" tube openings and would have fine adjustment with the acme rod. Think that would work?? I have around 56 to 58 inches of room between the two tubes would that allow enough room??? I could offset the winch if needed.


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## RichJ

...


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## RichJ

...


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## Hana Pa'a

Subscribed


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## captainhowdy

Subscribed


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## Unk Bond

RatherBArchery said:


> I am thinking of taking some of these idea's and adding them to my press to build a draw-board for my club.
> I will make the attachments side into the 1 1/2" tube openings and would have fine adjustment with the acme rod. Think that would work?? I have around 56 to 58 inches of room between the two tubes would that allow enough room??? I could offset the winch if needed.



-------------------------------

Hello

Really all you need. Remove your end caps from the 2 box tubings, that support your 2 sets of fingers


Take a square of metal 3/8" thick. Dill a 3/4 inch hole in the center of both squares. Tack weld a 3/4 inch nut to each square.
Turn the nut inside the box tubing. When placing the 2 squares on the end of your box tubing arms. And weld the 4 sides of the square to the box tubing. Really a simple task.

Buy a 2 long shank 3/4 inch bolt. Cut the head off. And screw . Into the to plate nuts. And slide a piece of thick rubber hose over the 3/4 inch bolt.

Now you have your draw board. And later you can add a shooting machine. To the same 2 rods.

Go to Unk Bond profile. Buy clicking my name. And search, for my two bow presses and a shooting machine. [ Later


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## 00race

any more updates? this tool is pretty cool


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## P&y only

Well, I don't like the weights hanging on mine. So I have decided to fill the legs with lead. That way it won't move and there will be less(junk) around the unit. I bought a laser that is 10 times brighter than a standard pointer(ebay) for 20 bucks. I tried taping it to a stabilizer quick but it didn't work. I need to be able to get it pointed EXACTLY straight ahead. So I'm working on that. I will also be brainstorming an elevation and windage adjustment. For now, I'm just shimming it up and moving the back legs. The thing is simply AWESOME!( Thanks Beast!) Oh, I also installed a NAP Apache micro adjust rest on one of my bows. WOW! I am now working on developing a limb driven-full containment-micro adjust rest. Give me some time here. The engineers are workin on it now. It amazes me what these bows are capable of once you know how to milk it out of them. WARNING: Use your arrows wisely. This can get expensive if you don't go fetch the arrow each time. I've killed several.


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## monsterbuckrick

I built mine yesterday and the clamps wouldn't hold when I drew. even when tightening them all the way. I am shooting 73 lbs though. I had to tie the mount down to hold the winch from lifting. Not a problem really just a note for heavier bows. After I secured the mount I drew all my bows and checked the poundages, timing, cam lean and letoffs. Made the adjustments and have all my bow's the same. Great idea and best of all my total cost was $120.00. Alot less than commercial draw/Shooting machines. Thanks to the OP for a great idea.


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## Beastmaster

Nice to see this thread is still going! And to everyone doing mods - cool for you! There is more than one way to set stuff up. This basic stand just provides the framework.


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## 00race

I added a slide to mine out of round tubing so I could attach my release and it wont be shaky or fly, but if you do this you should use square tubing so the arm cant drop. anyone come up with the greatest bow holder (fake hand) yet?


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## ka30270

post for a build project


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## monsterbuckrick

Just go to a marine store and buy the small trailer rubber stop for boats. This is the black rubber V that the hull goes into when winching tight. They even have a hole to mount onto the stand. I then use a shock cord to hold it tight.


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## ParaShooter

Beastmaster said:


> Overall side view from an indoor lane. If you need to shift for windage, just gradually move the back end.
> 
> The whole thing excluding a bow weighs about 80 pounds. If you need to sandbag it, you could. But, considering the groups I've been getting, it's not necessary.


I have one of those stands - nowhere near 80 pounds... 40 tops, (yep, just looked it up, 48lb. shipping weight) 

Great idea though! I'm going to have to see if I can order another set of machine mounts so I can use mine for this!


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## team-A&S

man that killer


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## Indianbullet

Best DIY yet. I just got my stand the other day and will be getting it under way shortly.


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## Schpankme

fishuntbike said:


> I have not shot my shooter yet and I'm still in the tweaking mode (may do windage/elevation adjustment for the bow and winch mount) anyways here's what I came up with. The bow holder was made from a boating accessories (V-bow mount $8.99) available from Bass Pro Shop. Hope to help others specifically using QAD drop away rest. And bow press project on-going too. Thanks to all creators of these Best Archery DIY projects.



Love the Bow Saddle was thinking of making the same out of Delrin.


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## bbgcsuper

ttt


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## philmire

hi people just spotted this tread am a reader not realy a big poster person i had to make a shooting jig for college and spent months researching it if only i had found this tread would of made life so much easyer


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## 152732

:tongue:


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## amorin

This is great. Will have to look into one.


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## H2C

*Multifunction Archery Tool - MAT*

I have recently returned to archery after an absence of 3 decades and really appreciate this DIY thread. Like many others I followed the base instructions from Beastmaster (thanks!!) with a few minor tweaks of my own after reading all the excellent posts from everyone else. 

I know we all like pictures so I posted a few of the nearly completed project. Thanks to FOLDEMUP for the rod-and-reel bow holder idea. Found mine at Academy Sports. The installation instructions were spot on. Thanks also to L.I.Archer to relocate 15" of the winch-end square tubing and make a cross brace to hold the tubular support.

I added a bow vise (R.S. Bow-vise)...yes, I should have been true to DIY and built my own but was intrigued by their design. I also use a BowMaster Bow Press which I plan to carry for emergency repairs in the field. I use the "spare" Ryobi tubular "T" member as both a support for the winch strap and a bow when horizontal in the vise, with or without the press.

The base for the winch and vise is flat metal plate from Lowes which strenghtens the crossmembers and avoids slippage on my 70lb, 30.5" draw. This provides me a setup that is multi-functional and easily tranported (yes, I may look into wheels like others). If I end up needing down-force I plan to use one of those "stake out augers" used for large dogs and a nylon strap rachet - lightweight and small. 

Great thread! Thanks again. Mike


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## H2C

*MAT - More Photos*

Spam limit restricted prior attachments. Here are a few more. (Yes, the bow is upside down...I was loosing light and in a rush). Great thread. Thanks.


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## Beastmaster

Nice pictures. It's great to see more ideas for this!


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## fishuntbike

I'm still in the process of building my version but it's been so busy lately at work and my son activities. I just need to dedicate same time for this. As per my shooter, I'm including a digital read out to be repeatitive on drawing bows.I used most of the square bar that came with the stand as support for the channel and added elevation and windage adjustment.still a lot of work to complete but it's getting there.


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## sepiid

i wonder if you could use this to help sight in perfect for 20yds with an adjustable sight.this would be the real ticket to remove any human error with the sight in process!


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## marku

No it will not work with sighting in! Its a tuning tool. Everyone anchors differently.


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## Beastmaster

Seems that the local (Phoenix area) Home Depots are putting the stand back at the normal price of $99 each. Pity...the 79 dollar price range that they were in made it so much more attractive.


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## L.I.Archer

Beastmaster said:


> Seems that the local (Phoenix area) Home Depots are putting the stand back at the normal price of $99 each. Pity...the 79 dollar price range that they were in made it so much more attractive.


I thought they were being phased out by Home Depot and/or discontinued by Ryobi. I guess with all the demand, they decided to keep them in production??


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## zombiehitman

Too cool! Tag for further review...


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## bigbuck

Finally got mine built but was playing with the grip. Has anyone tried attaching the bow with a bolt and screw it into the stabilizer hole? Does the bow need to be in a loose grip or would that work?
Thanks,
Tracy


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## shinobi3

ttt the top fpr a great thread


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## L.I.Archer

Oh, I haven't posted pictures yet, but I made a new bow holder that only goes around the throat of the grip. Will post them when I have them. Stay tuned.


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## L.I.Archer

bigbuck said:


> Finally got mine built but was playing with the grip. Has anyone tried attaching the bow with a bolt and screw it into the stabilizer hole? Does the bow need to be in a loose grip or would that work?
> Thanks,
> Tracy


Needs to be in a loose grip.


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## shinobi3

Cant wait for the pics


L.I.Archer said:


> Oh, I haven't posted pictures yet, but I made a new bow holder that only goes around the throat of the grip. Will post them when I have them. Stay tuned.


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## InnosntBystandr

I built me one this passed weekend. Did what it was supposed to do. Showed me my Invasion CPX was out of time out of the box. Lets see....nearest bow shop...1hr away. Well I guess I'm gonna have to make me a bow press or....spend some money and buy me one now. I'm going to try and make that $20.00 bow press on here to see if I can do it...and if not...."Sorry honey, I have to buy one in order to tune my bow. I love you!!" In the mean time here is a picture of my drawing board.


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## Tunaboy

Anybody have a good, cheap way to make sure that the bow is drawn to the exact same spot each time. Only way to insure that the bow has same energy for each shot. I want the same arrow to hit the same hole over and over.


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## TozerBGood

Tunaboy said:


> Anybody have a good, cheap way to make sure that the bow is drawn to the exact same spot each time. Only way to insure that the bow has same energy for each shot. I want the same arrow to hit the same hole over and over.


Well that's why I didn't use a worm gear. My wench cranks to the same click each time. Crank handle is at same point. Unless something strange has happened to the rope, it looks like the same point to me, and I marked an arrow and tested it.

Of course I always watch the draw stops when cranking it back. It's just a good idea. Hopefully I'll never space out in my old age and just keep cranking...:wink:


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## InnosntBystandr

I didn't do it here but if I want to stop the cable in the same spot everytime then I would put a cable clamp on the cable where it will hit the eye bolt on the 'T' arm. Someone earlier said you can do that. Makes sense to me that that ought to work.


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## Rick9

Tunaboy said:


> Anybody have a good, cheap way to make sure that the bow is drawn to the exact same spot each time. Only way to insure that the bow has same energy for each shot. I want the same arrow to hit the same hole over and over.


A couple of things to think about.
I want the bow to draw to the same point each time, and to draw to my exact draw length when I'm shooting.
So, I put some tape on the front of an arrow, draw the bow, pull into the stops like I do when I shoot, then have someone mark the arrow exactly where it goes through the rest.
Then when I use the shooter, I draw the bow with the calibrated arrow - to exactly the same spot, switch to the arrow I want to shoot and shoot it.
That way I don't have to worry about the winch position, cable stretch etc. etc.


----------



## Elky_Man

Nice! Might just have another winter project. They are adding up quick!


----------



## hunt123

InnosntBystandr said:


> I didn't do it here but if I want to stop the cable in the same spot everytime then I would put a cable clamp on the cable where it will hit the eye bolt on the 'T' arm. Someone earlier said you can do that. Makes sense to me that that ought to work.


That's what I did. Works fine.


----------



## fishuntbike

TozerBGood said:


> Well that's why I didn't use a worm gear. My wench cranks to the same click each time. Crank handle is at same point. Unless something strange has happened to the rope, it looks like the same point to me, and I marked an arrow and tested it.
> 
> Of course I always watch the draw stops when cranking it back. It's just a good idea. Hopefully I'll never space out in my old age and just keep cranking...:wink:


what if the click on your winch did not stop to the exact point of the draw, do you use turn buckle? with the worm gear you can stop exactly to the full draw stop but the only disadvantage is too slow to get at full draw. I use worm gear myself.


----------



## straddleridge

I have a drop away rest. The drop away launcher comes to 90 degrees 1/2 inch before full draw which is 3 clicks on my winch. So I watch the launcher and when it hits 90 degrees I give it 3 more clicks and I am there. On my shooter I installed a pulley (rated at 480# - the pulley must be rated at least twice the draw weight of the bow) so the winch is close to the bow and I can get a close look at the launcher.


----------



## fishuntbike

I use a 35" Remote Digital Readout connected to the glide that run along the channel, first what I do is manually draw my bow and marked the arrow in reference to my drop away rest at full draw and assure the bow hits it's draw stop. This will give me a reading and use that reading everytime the bow is drawn in the shooter and keep a record for each bows. Also the machine can move windage and elevation adjustment when shooting


----------



## ymurf

fishuntbike said:


> I use a 35" Remote Digital Readout connected to the glide that run along the channel, first what I do is manually draw my bow and marked the arrow in reference to my drop away rest at full draw and assure the bow hits it's draw stop. This will give me a reading and use that reading everytime the bow is drawn in the shooter and keep a record for each bows. Also the machine can move windage and elevation adjustment when shooting


Thats a nice set up.


----------



## fishuntbike

Still doing the final tweaking prior to painting. I finished the draw board part, next is to include the release to shoot it as well as the projected red dot. It's slowly coming to life.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZuBOuxHbWU


----------



## fishuntbike

trial shots ...short range untill I get the chance to go longer shots


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRieS9qv-tk


----------



## amorin

Very nice.


----------



## bl00dtrail

Made my fully adjustable, completely universal, Hoyt and QAD compatible, rock solid grip today.


----------



## L.I.Archer

bl00dtrail said:


> Made my fully adjustable, completely universal, Hoyt and QAD compatible, rock solid grip today.


Don't know if that'll work with the Hoyt bows if that tube is as large as the one that came with the Ryobi stand. Some Hoyt bows just won't fit. And the QAD's thumb flipper is going to get some interference, esp. the HD models. I still have to get my camera to the shop and take a picture of what I did. That's a really sweet welding job though. I wish I had room for an arc welder.


----------



## bl00dtrail

L.I.Archer said:


> Don't know if that'll work with the Hoyt bows if that tube is as large as the one that came with the Ryobi stand. Some Hoyt bows just won't fit. And the QAD's thumb flipper is going to get some interference, esp. the HD models. I still have to get my camera to the shop and take a picture of what I did. That's a really sweet welding job though. I wish I had room for an arc welder.


Well... I took the measurements off my Hoyt Matrix with a QAD hdx so I guess well see when I get home. More pics to follow (if it works) lol


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## bl00dtrail

IT WORKS!! I cut down the the pipe just a little more for clearance on the QAD thumb tab. and I need to widen my lower 2nd axis bracket... it fits but I'd like to make it 1/2" wider for more adjustability. 



















and found out my cam timing is off... 
bottom:








top:


----------



## twistedfreak

going to start mine this weekend ive been looking into this for a while and this seems to be the best that ive found thank guys and lets keep the ideas going


----------



## archers corner

Does it matter what gear ratio you use for the winch. Got my stand last week mounted my bow press on it and ready to add shooting hardware, befor I buy a winch L was just wonder what others thought about there winch, worm or gear, cable, rope or strap any help on this would be great


----------



## Tater1985

bl00dtrail said:


> IT WORKS!! I cut down the the pipe just a little more for clearance on the QAD thumb tab. and I need to widen my lower 2nd axis bracket... it fits but I'd like to make it 1/2" wider for more adjustability.


Do you have dimensions for the "bow holder" you made?


----------



## L.I.Archer

But what are you going to do if you have a left-handed bow with a QAD that your friend or someone asks you to work on?


----------



## archers corner

Thanks to everyone for great posts on there shooting machines, a couple more tweeks and I'll be ready to shoot with my super shooter.
This is my laser I'm using, great idea from fishuntbike. thought I share it. Threads into my quick connect and hold great.


----------



## Martinjj

I am new so be nice! What do you need this for?


----------



## Deer Eliminator

A shooting machine is for many things. I have used mine for setting timing, tuning arrows, adjusting draw lengths, fixing limb twist. etc etc etc. It also takes out human error when shooting. Here is a pic of mine. and at the bottom of my post is a video link.














Hutch


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## 12RingKing

I started mine today! I'm going to try the Ryobi version first and them get the fab shop guys at work to build me the super shooter later. Thanks guys for all the great information. 

I was thinking about using the rod holder version that has been on here. I thought about cutting a U-bolt in half and welding it to the sides to form a "pitchfork" design so you have 3 bolts and nuts holding it to the arm....what do you think about that?


----------



## deuce0515

How did you connect/support front t-bar (aka bow handle) to the actual bow? Have you updated design at all?


----------



## bcbow1971

Going to pick my stand up today and not 100% sure of the bracket yet....like the hockey puck and fishing pole mount but we will see what I can come up with. 

Does anyone know what size U-Bolts are being used or the diameter of the tubes on the Ryobi stand? 

I am using a Boat crank that has a strap that I picked up at Walley World before for my Draw Board as well as a Turn Buckle for fine tuning!!!......also no one has posted a pick of them using their scale to measure let off and draw cycle.


----------



## straddleridge

Tube diameter is 1.77"


----------



## bcbow1971

straddleridge said:


> Tube diameter is 1.77"


Is that the main tubes or the tube that the bow rests on or both? Thanks!!!


----------



## straddleridge

I just measured them - the main tube is 1.772" according to my dial caliper and the tube connected to the "T" is 1.762". Just barely too big for a 1 3/4 inch u bolt. I do not rest the bow on the tube connected to the "T".


----------



## bcbow1971

Thanks I am looking mainly for what size clamps I will need to clamp down the sliding brackets that my whinch will be on and or attach accessories. 

Thanks


----------



## straddleridge

Just a thought - This thing is all metric. For instance the square holes in the square tubes that fit over the square extensions are barely too small for 1 1/4 inch square tubing to fit into. All of the hardeware (screws and nuts) are also metric.


----------



## bcbow1971

OK Thanks!!!

1.772"= 45mm and 1.762" =44.75mm


----------



## 12RingKing

Here's what I've done so far....still working on some thoughts for the grip.


----------



## bcbow1971

OK Finally came down with a rear mounted bow holder...Took a U-Bolt, like what I used to clamp down the winch brackets to the tubes, slid a small rubber tube over it and then tested it out so the bow is on the winch side of the bar. Well worked good but was not getting consistant draw and alignment....well Hooter Shooter recommends a little lube between gripper/bow holder and the bow. Well I decided to slide a piece of Fleece(Tube style of Fleece) around Rubber tubing and this keeps the bow from gripping on the rubber and it worked great!! The only other thing that I did was take the second T and mount it wit U-Bolts between the bow and winch so that the release head rest right on top and makes a solid anchor and more consistant shot. I mounted a HD laser to a rod that was once a stabilizer and it has windage and elevation knobs so I can fine tune it. I also use the gripper Bench Cookies (pic below) for gripping the legs for solid stability or need to raise one side up like I raise the front by two pucks to hit my bag in my garage.... I will get some pictures as soon as I get a chance to get it outside without getting rained on. I have some other ideas about leg leveling devices for outdoors uneven terrain like my backyard. Also working on an aiming spot to use with the laser. My laser will shine a long way but I still need to test distance.


----------



## OzArcher1

I was looking at these the other day trying to decide whether it was a worthwile proposition, I am also considering making a string jig ans some how the two ideas seemed to merge into one. I have not e read the whole (close to) 700 pages on this tread, but has anyone considered adding a string jig to this. It looks to me like it would be a fairly simple matter and would only require a set of posts, a couple of post arms and a stretcher (and perhaps a little welding) and you have made this an even more versatile tool. It also seems that with a little more inginueity It would be possible to add a press to this as well. each could be done by simple changing the attachments as required. The basic stand would seem to be a great base for a whole bow workstation.

:darkbeer:


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## djkost

well picked up a stand and am in the process of building one too. I only wanted a draw board but after reading this why not have a shooter too. Should be good to 20 yards to check your arrows. Good post got a lot of people thinking and posting on how to make one.


----------



## 12RingKing

I'm thinking about mounting a ubolt as my bow holder on the rear side (winch side) of the main "T" bar. I'll post pics when I get it finished!


----------



## Edsel

Definitely one of the more interesting DIY threads.

I'm just curious as to what your setups CAN'T DO that the Hooter Shooter and Kwik Shooter can.

They all look pretty good!


----------



## bcbow1971

Here is a few pics of my rear mounted U Bolt with Fleece cover that allows for a zero torque grip!!!


----------



## djkost

I'm doing the same bcbow1971 but my hoyt is a CRX32 and am having trouble with the bow canting up as I draw the winch back. At the height it is pointed I would be shooting at least 100 yards on release. I have some fleece and will try that.


----------



## bcbow1971

djkost said:


> I'm doing the same bcbow1971 but my hoyt is a CRX32 and am having trouble with the bow canting up as I draw the winch back. At the height it is pointed I would be shooting at least 100 yards on release. I have some fleece and will try that.


I had a fleece band that you put around your head to cover your ears that I cut a piece from. I also had to adjust the winch so it pulls the bow straight back, then put the second t bar so the release rests on it and makes the up and down rock solid!!!


----------



## djkost

The fleece seem to help. I used some sticky back fleece that I had from years ago. I have a 2 inch u bolt but thinking of replacing it with 1 1/2 inch x 5/16. I saw on here that some were using rope instead of webbing in thier winches? Do you tighten up your U bolt so the front of the riser touches the front tee pipe?


----------



## bcbow1971

djkost said:


> The fleece seem to help. I used some sticky back fleece that I had from years ago. I have a 2 inch u bolt but thinking of replacing it with 1 1/2 inch x 5/16. I saw on here that some were using rope instead of webbing in thier winches? Do you tighten up your U bolt so the front of the riser touches the front tee pipe?


I tighten the bolt up so that the bow is about 1/2" from tube and doesnt move much after shot but doesnt interfere with bow.....plus I had some really large clear shrink tubing that is over that tube and keeps from scratching anything


----------



## ltlacorn

I just found this thread. You guys are great!! I will be heading out and buying some parts to build mine. Thanks for sharing this valuable idea


----------



## PEGE

I just found this thread as well great innovative thinking.. while keeping it simple. Love it!


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## djkost

Bcbow 1971, does your bow shelf sit about even with the front pipe, mine does. I might have to re drill the holes off center to raise it a bit.


----------



## tllhunter

I know a lot of people doing this build are using Harbour Freight winches. Does anyone know the model number of the particular winch they used, and are you happy with it. What kind of winch, worm gear or otherwise. Did it use a cable or strap.

Thanks in advance


----------



## RichJ

I looked for the model number of mine but, I threw the box away. Here is a pic of the one that I have been using w/o any problems. Sorry thats the best I can do for ya.


----------



## 12RingKing

Go to academy and get their winch. It's just as good and the strap works fine. You don't have to get the one from harbor freight.


----------



## johnh1720

RichJ said:


> I looked for the model number of mine but, I threw the box away. Here is a pic of the one that I have been using w/o any problems. Sorry thats the best I can do for ya.


Pretty nice lookin vise. how about a close up.


----------



## RichJ

it's just a RS Bow Vise mounted to the mounted to the other square tubing. The nice part is being able to extend to tubing out towhatever location you need it.. You can also lay the down sight 1st. The string it up as if it were in a press if you need to do anything to the string while it's in the vise. I'll post pics after work this evening.


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## carpkiller08

Well i got mine built, taking it to the range tonight! I will post up some pictures later on! I got the stand for $80 military discounts rock!


----------



## BowBaker1640

wow! i have to go back and read all the posts but there is some GOOD info here. just what i need another project! now i just have one question. is anyone using these machines for sighting the bow in? i would think it would be great for taking out all human error for that too


----------



## OzArcher1

ttt, 

This thread needs to be kept near the top:thumbs_up:wink:


----------



## NoFences4Me

Awesome information here, thanks!


----------



## Bearlee

ttt


----------



## Smoothie

Just finishing a advanced micro adjust version using your great ideas. Ran a demo last night and it worked excellent with a shorter ata bow, able to repeat shots into the same hole at 18yds (haven't tried longer). I need to make a front leg modification for long ata bows. I'll post pictures soon. :thumbs_up


----------



## Smoothie

Almost done!
View attachment 1229974


----------



## Bearlee

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200395594_200395594

I just found this winch at northern tool to try to put me one of these together
It was $18.99 + tax and is rated to 600lb, about 10 times more than I will be drawing back :wink:


----------



## Tunaboy

I have asked this question before and did not get a good answer. How do I get the EXACT draw length each time??. What I do now is I get the winch to where I am very close to the draw stops on the bow and I have an in line turn buckle that comes in to play. I hold a small piece of paper between the string and the stop and adjust the turn buckle until I pinch the paper between the string and stop. This works good but is very time consuming. Any other good ways??


----------



## Deer Eliminator

Tunaboy said:


> I have asked this question before and did not get a good answer. How do I get the EXACT draw length each time??. What I do now is I get the winch to where I am very close to the draw stops on the bow and I have an in line turn buckle that comes in to play. I hold a small piece of paper between the string and the stop and adjust the turn buckle until I pinch the paper between the string and stop. This works good but is very time consuming. Any other good ways??


Put an arrow in your bow draw it back to anchor position, have someone mark the arrow with a pencil. Put it in the machine and draw it back too that pencil mark. Mark your rail with pencil. Draw it back to the pencil mark each time. I use a hand tighten clamp once drawn back to where the arrow is marked I slide up the clamp and tighten it.

Hutch


----------



## Big Easy

When you use these for tuning arrows/bows, is the bow held rigidly in place at the shot or is it allowed to rock forward like it would when you shoot normally? I've been trying to figure this out from the pictures, but I can't tell.


----------



## nuts&bolts

Big Easy said:


> When you use these for tuning arrows/bows, is the bow held rigidly in place at the shot or is it allowed to rock forward like it would when you shoot normally? I've been trying to figure this out from the pictures, but I can't tell.


Do not rigidly lock it in.

Use a leather or rubber strap to keep the bow from falling to the ground.
Bow needs to be able to rock backwards and tip forwards.


----------



## Deer Eliminator

nuts&bolts said:


> Do not rigidly lock it in.
> 
> Use a leather or rubber strap to keep the bow from falling to the ground.
> Bow needs to be able to rock backwards and tip forwards.


x2 I used a commercial felt so the bow could sit in the pocket and not be torqued. And a leather belt to hold it after shot. If you set it up right it will be able to shoot the same arrow in the same hole each time. Mine did at 65 yards. 


Hutch


----------



## StephenC8

I made one just like it and it works GREAT!!!


----------



## StephenC8

just as a side note, i would say using a web/strap based winch would be much more precise since it spools around itself much more consistently than cable which can spool in different positions.... (ie, left right left right, and due to it over-laying itself, it can result in different diameters of the spool and in a ratcheting system, the spool would be a variable that you would encounter...) 

i use a crank winch rather than a ratcheting winch because that way i can let down the bow safely and easily..














this picture is before i switched to webbing...





MysticFlight said:


> am going to use a worm gear winch. I would like some suggestions on how I can fill the spool of the winch to make it wind up the cable faster. I think the spool center is around 2" in diameter and the outside of the spool is around 4" in diameter. If I can make the inside of the spool about 3 1/2" in diameter the winch will take up cable much faster. I may be able to just take a bunch of wooden dowels and tape them to the center spool and then wind the cable over the dowels. Does anyone have any better ideas?
> 
> 
> I use these at work for raising and lowering pumps. I take the handles off and use two nuts on thereads to lock together and use our dewalt cordless impact with a socket. Works like a charm and im sure a regular drill chucked up well would do the same


----------



## Bearlee

I shot my first arrow with mine last night. My bow holder needs some work. Right now it is just a couple of pieces of wooden quarter round moulding and duct dape. I have to adjust the verticality of the bow with each shot. I did find out my bottom draw stop is hitting about 1/4" before my top cam. I guess I have work to do. I also found out I have about 1/8" lean in my top cam at full draw. On a carbon element with fuel cam and 1/2 and rollers, is this supposed to come out?


----------



## lynnh

I was planning to just make a draw board. (The range that I go to already has a Hooter Shooter there.) I was going to mount something as a bow hand to a shelf, then a winch a ways behind the bar, and use a caribeaner (sp?) to hold the string. Any ideas on what to use as the bow hand? Please pm me if so.


----------



## Smoothie

The changes have been made. bent the front leg for more clearance and made cosmetic changes to to the sliding carriage. The right, left and draw length micro adjust feature work awsome. The hooter shooter has nothing on this one!
View attachment 1236103
View attachment 1236104


----------



## joaxe

Way cool...still have yet to set mine up. It's sitting in the basement with stuff on it... :angry:

Joe


----------



## alaskariverguy

Just got started on mine, got the winch on still working on the bow holder, have tried several ideas with no luck. Just need to be able to spend some time on it, hopefully this weekend and then I can get started playing with it. Picked up a laser/flashlight combo from the hardware store for $30. 

Steve


----------



## L.I.Archer

alaskariverguy said:


> Just got started on mine, got the winch on still working on the bow holder, have tried several ideas with no luck. Just need to be able to spend some time on it, hopefully this weekend and then I can get started playing with it. Picked up a laser/flashlight combo from the hardware store for $30.
> 
> Steve


The bow holder is easy. I used an 8" long x 3/8" dia. eye bolt and bent the eye part open with a propane torch and a 1/2" dia. pipe, until it was the right shape to cradle the bow's grip correctly. Then I slipped clear tubing over it and installed it into the T-bar that came with the stand, except that I cut off one leg of the T-bar and inserted wood...crap...hard to describe. Just gonna have to take pictures of what I did and post it when I get the chance.


----------



## Smoothie

My bow holder required a little welding and some plastic coat
View attachment 1238293


----------



## L.I.Archer

Smoothie said:


> My bow holder required a little welding and some plastic coat
> View attachment 1238293


Problem with this is you'll never get a Hoyt in there.


----------



## roymac

This cool, I wonderr if some more modification you coyld sr this up to build strings?


----------



## jaymiller5

Bought the stand and a winch today, now to read through all the pages to find the most consistent way to get the alignment of the release and the grip with this setup. At least it will serve as a great draw board until I get through all of these pages. Very cool!!


----------



## EPLC

I bought one today as well and on the first draw cycle the clamps that hold the wench popped off about 1/4 through the draw cycle. I'm going to have to look very closely at the various ways people have attached their wench. The clamping system that comes with the miter saw stand isn't safe as far as I'm concerned.


----------



## Smoothie

View attachment 1239199
I used 4 U bolts, 2 sadling the rear rail close to the winch and 2 sadling the front rail away from the winch.


----------



## bcbow1971

EPLC said:


> I bought one today as well and on the first draw cycle the clamps that hold the wench popped off about 1/4 through the draw cycle. I'm going to have to look very closely at the various ways people have attached their wench. The clamping system that comes with the miter saw stand isn't safe as far as I'm concerned.


Take about 4 U-Bolts and clamp the slides down!! Then you will be in business!!!


----------



## EPLC

Yes, I noticed the u-bolt idea after the clamps let go. No harm done as the they let go early in the cycle. On my way to Home Depot for some u-bolts... Also like the idea of using these as a reverse bow holder as well.


----------



## kwilde

What size Ubolts are you guys using


----------



## bcbow1971

EPLC said:


> Yes, I noticed the u-bolt idea after the clamps let go. No harm done as the they let go early in the cycle. On my way to Home Depot for some u-bolts... Also like the idea of using these as a reverse bow holder as well.


Yeah the reverse bow holder works out great!!


----------



## Smoothie

I used 2" U bolts


----------



## EPLC

*My Shooter*

I can't thank Beastmaster (and everyone else) enough for this project... This thing shot 9 different 2712's in the same hole @ 15 yards more than 30 times without 1 miss.


----------



## tllhunter

Anyone heard anything about the Ryobi stand going on sale. I know last year they offered it at $79.


----------



## EPLC

*Per request*

The first pic is the release hookup. I simply made a loop of loop material and hung it on the wench hook. The second is my bow holder which is made up of a c-clamp and some clear plastic tubing.


----------



## gabuckslammer

Thankful for gift certificates and now in the process of building my own RyobiBow Diddle.

Stand - check Winch - check Bowholder - in progress

Lots of info to peruse through here.


----------



## NYS REP

Sirs:
Without going through 25 pages of posts: Do you need to have the winch approximately 3.5 inches higher than your "D" loop to truly simulate the position of your anchor point as is reccomended for a draw board


----------



## fishuntbike

I finally got the chance to start painting my shooter, slowly getting to life again


----------



## bcbow1971

NYS REP said:


> Sirs:
> Without going through 25 pages of posts: Do you need to have the winch approximately 3.5 inches higher than your "D" loop to truly simulate the position of your anchor point as is reccomended for a draw board


The front arm can be raised and lowered to get the right angle. I also used the second T bar to use as the rest for the release which will allow for fine adjustment aiming!!!


----------



## NYS REP

thank-you, probably would have figured it out once I got mine together.


----------



## fishuntbike

It's been awhile that I finished my drawboard/shooter and bow press using Ryobi Stand, but haven't painted the shooter yet until 3 days ago I started applying primer and yesterday I was able to finished everything. A little background; I used a digital readout to get repeatitive draw and made a channel that rides on bearing to draw the bow using a worm gear winch with the help of my impact driver also I made it with windage and elevation adjustment. The bow holder is cut to size with bandsaw and it is made of boat bow stop. Laser light is also attached to the bow when shooting to have a reference point and shoot the same spot everytime. Scott little goose is use as release or bow scale can be switched to measure draw weight.


----------



## L.I.Archer

Here's my solution to the bow holder. All bows fit in here:







Took an 8" hook bolt and heated it up with a propane torch in a bench vise and bent the hook open with a piece of pipe that I slipped over the open end of the hook when the round part of the hook got red hot. Let it cool and slipped clear tubing over it. Then wrapped it with duct tape so there's a relatively flat spot for the grip to sit against. The hook bolt is bolted through wood blocking that I cut on a bandsaw till I had a series of round shapes that fit inside the aluminum tube. Used a sander to get the final shape to fit perfectly. Drilled a 3/8" dia. hole through the center of the wood blocking so I could install the 3/8" dia. hook bolt. Even made it so I could reinstall the plastic end covers. I took a 1/2" dia. pipe and mounted it to the front of the aluminum tube into the wood blocking and used a couple of zip-ties to secure one end so the pressure from the bow being drawn back doesn't pop out any of the mounting screws. This pipe holds the 3/8" dia. rod with a piece of foam from a workout bench that I trimmed down and slipped over the rod. I had to make my own hole so the rod fits snug inside the rod. It's my version of a quick-release and gets bows in and out of there in a jiffy.







You can see the 1/2" pipe without the bow retention rod with the foam on it.








Here it is with the bow retention rod with foam. If I have a bow with a big grip, I just slide the rod out till the foam clears and there's duct tape on the rod prevents marring of the front of the grip when the bow jumps or drops forward at the shot. The white pvc pipe that I fabricated below the bow holder is a bow leveler and goes left and right so get the bow level. It touches the grip's side plate but does not interfere with the natural motion of the bow.


----------



## EPLC

While this has been a fun project, the shooter still lacks the fine aiming needed to be a serious tuning machine. It really needs another axis with side to side and up and down adjustability such as fishuntbike built into his.


----------



## Ghost23

These are some nice setups. Great work!


----------



## bcbow1971

EPLC said:


> While this has been a fun project, the shooter still lacks the fine aiming needed to be a serious tuning machine. It really needs another axis with side to side and up and down adjustability such as fishuntbike built into his.


Mine with the rear ubolt mounted bow holder and the release resting on a rear T bar the bow is steady and the laser I use mounted on a stabilizer rod makes repeated shots easy and I even robin hooded an arrow doing this and now only shoot one arrow at a time.


----------



## Smoothie

The sliding carriage on mine has individual right/left and vertical adjuster screws which micro adjust the pivoting release
View attachment 1245228


----------



## EPLC

Ghost23 said:


> These are some nice setups. Great work!


Yes, I agree. The basic design still needs better aiming adjustability... and some have addressed this nicely. I have had decent performance out of mine but it still lacks an additional axis to jump to the next level...


----------



## EPLC

Smoothie said:


> The sliding carriage on mine has individual right/left and vertical adjuster screws which micro adjust the pivoting release
> View attachment 1245228


While this is a vast improvement in design, aiming requires the bow to move up/dowm/left/right in the holder to make adjustments. Having the bow and release slider on the same static plain would be a more stable setup.


----------



## fishuntbike

That is the reason why I made my shooter adjustable to windage and elevation to simulate the shooter and maintain the static plain. PM me if anyone has question, I'll be glad to help


----------



## Smoothie

I it all depends how big you want to make it. A dozen shots in the same hole is a dozen shots in the same hole. I wanted a compact shooter that I would be able to fold the legs and put in my trunk, back seat or tucked out of sight in the shop.


----------



## EPLC

Smoothie said:


> I it all depends how big you want to make it. A dozen shots in the same hole is a dozen shots in the same hole. I wanted a compact shooter that I would be able to fold the legs and put in my trunk, back seat or tucked out of sight in the shop.


Yes, and you've come up with a nice design that will do just that. I'm not knocking your machine (or any others) as most fit the need for a portable shooter with decent performance. I actually can get very tight groups at 15-20 yards as well but mine doesn't have any fine adjustments. That said; I'm looking for the additional axis as I want to shoot much longer distances and get the same results... In order to perform like the professional machines, the stand and the shooting axis modules need to be separate from one another. fishuntbike's design covers the need but is much too big/heavy for my purposes as well. The KWIK-Shooter is a nice design and looks to be very portable.


----------



## Smoothie

The bow does not need to move to adjust your impact point. The adjusters at the at the release allow me plenty of micro sighting adjusability. 54"x18"x12" 48lbs. P.S. I understand your concern about long distance 
View attachment 1245564


----------



## EPLC

I'm designing a new top module for my shooter based on the ideas I've seen here. What dimention are you guys using for the distance between the deepest part of the grip and the release? Thanks.


----------



## EPLC

EPLC said:


> I'm designing a new top module for my shooter based on the ideas I've seen here. What dimention are you guys using for the distance between the deepest part of the grip and the release? Thanks.


Actually, this is a more correct view...


----------



## Tunaboy

Look way back in this post and you will see some easy to add wheels that help alot. The post is from Tunaboy (me)


----------



## fishuntbike

can you make the bow holder adjustable up and down? this will save you time and effort to align the bow and release at full draw because your release is now riding in a moving mechanism which has no forgiveness (considering the torque being applied) vs. a free floating webbing with forgiveness or slack. If the distance you are asking is OFF a bit, the bow and release will not line up perfectly and you'll pulling the bow under or over the natural nocking point. This is a much robust design to accomodate all bow with different configurations.


----------



## L.I.Archer

fishuntbike said:


> can you make the bow holder adjustable up and down? this will save you time and effort to align the bow and release at full draw because your release is now riding in a moving mechanism which has no forgiveness (considering the torque being applied) vs. a free floating webbing with forgiveness or slack. If the distance you are asking is OFF a bit, the bow and release will not line up perfectly and you'll pulling the bow under or over the natural nocking point. This is a much robust design to accomodate all bow with different configurations.


The T-bar that comes with the stand does go up and down.


----------



## fishuntbike

L.I.Archer said:


> The T-bar that comes with the stand does go up and down.


He is designing a top module and I am not sure if he is still using the T-bar ? as shown above diagram.


----------



## L.I.Archer

fishuntbike said:


> He is designing a top module and I am not sure if he is still using the T-bar ? as shown above diagram.


With all this work he's putting into it, he could have just bought a Hooter Shooter. In my opinion, the whole purpose of this DIY shooting device was to keep it as inexpensive and functionally simple as possible. But, to each his own. I kept mine very simple given the limited tools I had at my disposal. One of these days, I'll revisit the bow holder hook and take the time to make it square so there's a smaller point of contact with the throat of the grip. It shoots great now and I can tune just about every bow out there with what I've got, but it could (and will) be a little bit better.


----------



## EPLC

EPLC said:


> While this has been a fun project, the shooter still lacks the fine aiming needed to be a serious tuning machine. It really needs another axis with side to side and up and down adjustability such as fishuntbike built into his.


fishuntbike is correct. I am looking for an improved design as having the bow and the release on separate axis's does not produce a stable enough machine to seriously tune arrows at any distance. Even getting the same arrow to hit the same hole consistently can be a challenge with the original design, even at 15 yards. I think Smoothie has come as close as you can get with this 2-axis design but, while improved, still operates on 2 separate axis's. And BTW I do have the extra T supporting my release and for making slight up & down adjustments.


----------



## bcbow1971

EPLC said:


> fishuntbike is correct. I am looking for an improved design as having the bow and the release on separate axis's does not produce a stable enough machine to seriously tune arrows at any distance. Even getting the same arrow to hit the same hole consistently can be a challenge with the original design, even at 15 yards. I think Smoothie has come as close as you can get with this 2-axis design but, while improved, still operates on 2 separate axis's. And BTW I do have the extra T supporting my release and for making slight up & down adjustments.



Keep us informed. I use a laser on a rod screwed into stabilzer whole and make sure it if pointed at same aiming spot and mine seems to be dead on!!


----------



## EPLC

bcbow1971 said:


> Keep us informed. I use a laser on a rod screwed into stabilzer whole and make sure it if pointed at same aiming spot and mine seems to be dead on!!


Yes, with a laser and a little patence I'm sure you can repeat. This still does not address the lack of aiming adjustment in the basic design. Having the bow and the release on the same axis is just a more stable design. With the bow and the release on the same axis, neither the bow or the release moves when making aiming adjustments, the entire axis moves as a unit. With the bow and release separate to one another, the bow and/or the release has to shift in the holder up/down and left/right.


----------



## Ray knight

This thing is super cool but what is its purpose? Is it for fine tuning your bow?


----------



## EPLC

Yes, and arrow tuning to get the best groups... and of course the "super cool" aspect.


----------



## fishuntbike

L.I.Archer said:


> With all this work he's putting into it, he could have just bought a Hooter Shooter. In my opinion, the whole purpose of this DIY shooting device was to keep it as inexpensive and functionally simple as possible. But, to each his own. I kept mine very simple given the limited tools I had at my disposal. One of these days, I'll revisit the bow holder hook and take the time to make it square so there's a smaller point of contact with the throat of the grip. It shoots great now and I can tune just about every bow out there with what I've got, but it could (and will) be a little bit better.



I totally agree with the DIY concept (keep it inexpensive and simple) but sometimes you have to push the limit to have a robust design. And you won't believe how people from AT are much more creative that the actual manufacturer. Everyone is different of what they want to attain and spend ..it's all up to the person. I did revisit mine to do the painting and small things to avoid burden in spending at one point.For the price of a hooter shooter, I don't think one will be close to $1300 or so just to DIY this unless one is trying to compete the market.


----------



## EPLC

EPLC said:


> I'm designing a new top module for my shooter based on the ideas I've seen here. What dimention are you guys using for the distance between the deepest part of the grip and the release? Thanks.


So, nobody has a specific dimention from the grip to the release?


----------



## bl00dtrail

L.I.Archer said:


> But what are you going to do if you have a left-handed bow with a QAD that your friend or someone asks you to work on?


I will tell him to bring it over.... Left handed, QAD, Hoyt... no problem!

(matter of fact my cousin REQUIRED me to make it compatible with that setup as he is a lefty Hoyt shooter)


----------



## tllhunter

Hey ELPC, not sure I understand what you are asking. The distance between the release and the deepest part of the grip depends on your brace height, draw length and changes throughout the draw cycle. Help me understand.


----------



## fishuntbike

he is asking for the height of the release to the grip/bow holder, sorry EPLC I didn't get the chance last night to measure my shooter ....maybe tonite. Just rough estimate maybe 3.5" ....measure the height of your nocking point (loop) to the throat of your grip


----------



## EPLC

After taking a rough measurement on my Hoyt Contender Elite Im thinking more like 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 ballpark.


----------



## Smoothie

If a bow is tuned with the arrow square to the string this measurement would be the same as the throat of the grip to the center of berger hole. Checking the bows in the shop it ranges from 1 3/4" to 2". Hope this is what you are looking for.


----------



## bl00dtrail

EPLC said:


> fishuntbike is correct. I am looking for an improved design as having the bow and the release on separate axis's does not produce a stable enough machine to seriously tune arrows at any distance. Even getting the same arrow to hit the same hole consistently can be a challenge with the original design, even at 15 yards. I think Smoothie has come as close as you can get with this 2-axis design but, while improved, still operates on 2 separate axis's. And BTW I do have the extra T supporting my release and for making slight up & down adjustments.



I can make ANY axis adjustment with my grip.... I can fine tune plumb, level and square with the lower adjustment bracket on the grip with a simple turn of a wrench while the bow is at full draw (I use a laser for sighting as well)


----------



## fishuntbike

I measured mine and came out 1.75" close


----------



## Beastmaster

Mild comment - I started this thread back in November of 2010. 

I find it amazing and totally cool that people are still refining this concept. Nice work!


----------



## bcbow1971

Beastmaster said:


> Mild comment - I started this thread back in November of 2010.
> 
> I find it amazing and totally cool that people are still refining this concept. Nice work!



Well Steve you always come up with some really cool stuff!!!


----------



## EPLC

The project has begun...


----------



## Deer Eliminator

EPLC said:


> The project has begun...


Looking good so far. 

Hutch


----------



## BackcountryBull

EPLC said:


> The project has begun...


I like what I see so far!!


----------



## fishuntbike

good job


----------



## bfoot

If you get a U bolt and put it through the other side, the one the bow is not on, and attach a S hook, you can flip it and use your draw board to spec your string under 100 lbs pressure (assuming you have a scale and that it goes that high). I am amazed at the number of people who do not spec their string and cables before tuning. You can save hours of frustration by doing this and I have found if done and done with accuracy (measure from inside of loop to inside of loop). To do this exact you need a good metal measure that goes to 72" (longer if solo cam bow). I measure from the one inch mark so I can get it exact and them subtract one inch. This is one time where close is not good enough, it has to be a precise as you can get it.

I always spec new bows, new strings and when I am going to tune a bow. This should be done first and this is an easy way (I used to hang them from a hook with barbell weights). Another use for a great idea.


----------



## bfoot

Bearlee said:


> I shot my first arrow with mine last night. My bow holder needs some work. Right now it is just a couple of pieces of wooden quarter round moulding and duct dape. I have to adjust the verticality of the bow with each shot. I did find out my bottom draw stop is hitting about 1/4" before my top cam. I guess I have work to do. I also found out I have about 1/8" lean in my top cam at full draw. On a carbon element with fuel cam and 1/2 and rollers, is this supposed to come out?


All bows have some cam lean due to the cables being pulled out of the way of he fletching. It has no effect on accuracy, especially as little as you have. Look at the old three track cams, man there is a lot of lean but even those shoot very accurately.


----------



## Bearlee

I have since eliminated the lean and having been working patiently at tuning it further as I get the chance, A few tweaks each night gets one closer. Thanks!


----------



## P&y only

I believe i have finally perfected the bow holding device. And it was cheap. I will install it tomorrow and make sure there are no unforseen issues. But I think you'll all like it.


----------



## 167_12PT

What kind of groups are y'all getting at long distances? I do not understand, if all is constant, why couldn't you shoot tight groups at a distance??


----------



## P&y only

167_12PT said:


> What kind of groups are y'all getting at long distances? I do not understand, if all is constant, why couldn't you shoot tight groups at a distance??


When I first made mine I was able to shoot baseball size groups at 70. In order for us to get the full potential out of these things we need to come up with something like a stabilizer with a laser in it. I've been trying but haven't got it yet. You see, that will allow us to have a very precise point of aim. After we shoot the bow, you cannot get it back into the EXACT same place. And using the sights works but is inherantly inaccurate. So if we can get a laser that can be pointed back at the exact same point I think we will be stuffing arrows inside one another. Here's the holder I came up with. It isn't pretty but it works awesome and it's dirt cheap. One u-bolt, one piece of ready bolt, and a chunk of hose.


----------



## bcbow1971

I have a Small aluminum rod that is threaded for the stabilizer that I have a clamp on the rod and is adjustable with windage and elevation adjustments that I use. I use a small orange dot at about 10-15ft out front and make sure it is lined up and then I know it is all lined up....normally the only thing with my setup I have to worry about is the the cant left and right slightly. But its sweet...

Basspro used to sell a clamp on laser and light combo that would work good.


----------



## lineman28

I built mine today still need to do some work on the bow holder, and put some bolts on the brackets that hold the winch. But works pretty good


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## EPLC

The u-bolt reverse bow holder was posted on page 23 by bcbow1971. See post #686... Here's mine... also got my laser today.


----------



## bcbow1971

Here is my laser I use.










Uploaded from my mobile lifeline


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## EPLC

Here's mine... Now all I have to do is design a mount.


----------



## Muzzy61

Ttt


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## P&y only

EPLC said:


> Here's mine... Now all I have to do is design a mount.


Thats funny! I bought that exact laser pointer. But the mount is difficult because i thought I'd just tape it to a stab but getting it aligned isn't too easy. If you get er done let me know how you did it.


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## EPLC

Newly designed rear facing bow holder... I haven't tried this out yet but I believe it should work out really well. I've been using a reverse u-bolt with decent results but I believe this is a more repeatable setup. The space between the arms at the tubing is 3/4" which is what my Hoyts measure and the 1" diameter nylon bushing rotates freely on a 1/2" bushing. I'll let you know how it works out after I've set it up and shot it.


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## ak68

I just got my table and winch over the weekend. I did U-bolt the winch support and respool the webbing to get my winch crank on the outside and feeding from the bottom to better align with my bow. I will use the rear mounted U-bolt bow holder covered with a plastic tube and felt. Once it gets above zero here I will try it as a shooter. As a draw tool it showed me my Elite Answer cams are about 1/4 inch out of sync. I think I am about to become a tuner and will be asking lots of questions.


----------



## Rattlehead

Hurry up EPLC I want to see what you come up with:wink: j/k take your time but, hurry up.......


----------



## dwm01

Menards has this saw stand on sale for $60 
http://menards.com/main/tools-hardw...ech-reg-miter-saw-stand/p-1721822-c-10164.htm
do you think it would work as well as the Ryobi stand


----------



## huntnfishnut

I think I was looking at that stand the other day, not very impressed with how it was built.. if that is the one I saw


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## EPLC

I'm afraid my little project has outgrown the Ryobi stand so I'm starting a new thread http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1683506


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## ak68

If you are using a beast or beast 2 release you can take out the length adjustment screws and remove the release from the strap then use a 5/16 turnbuckle for fine draw length adjustment. A 5/16 piece of bolt or all-thread will slide right into the release and thread into one end of the tunbuckle and with some slight drilling of the 5/16 bolt you can reinstall the release screws and have a nice minimal release for your shooter. It is just as easy to take your release back to stock and use it in the field too.


----------



## EPLC

Disregard my previous post... I designed a way to use the Ryobi stand after all. Here's where I stand. (Pay no attention to the state the original is in, I haven't fully disassembled it yet)


----------



## peregrine82

My buddy DssBB made a laser holder that has three axis movement, X,Y and Z. It works perfectly, next step is to make spike legs that will bolt on to the 3 wheel casters. 

































Please excuse the crappy images the macro feature on my camera is not working properly. In the first image you see a bolt head. Locking this in forces apart the round stock.


----------



## thwackaddict

EPLC said:


> Disregard my previous post... I designed a way to use the Ryobi stand after all. Here's where I stand. (Pay no attention to the state the original is in, I haven't fully disassembled it yet)


Looking pretty nifty!!!


----------



## Rhody Hunter

EPLC said:


> Disregard my previous post... I designed a way to use the Ryobi stand after all. Here's where I stand. (Pay no attention to the state the original is in, I haven't fully disassembled it yet)


Paul that set up is looking good . Bring it by the club some time at a meeting , it looks like it would be fun to try out


----------



## EPLC

peregrine82 said:


> My buddy DssBB made a laser holder that has three axis movement, X,Y and Z. It works perfectly, next step is to make spike legs that will bolt on to the 3 wheel casters.
> 
> View attachment 1275799
> 
> 
> View attachment 1275802
> 
> 
> View attachment 1275807
> 
> 
> View attachment 1275809
> 
> 
> Please excuse the crappy images the macro feature on my camera is not working properly. In the first image you see a bolt head. Locking this in forces apart the round stock.


Where did you get the white plastic?


----------



## EPLC

*???*

Also, where can I find some of these? These are the adjustment nuts from the Kwik-Shooter. I don't even know what to call them.


----------



## bcbow1971

Check Lowes, I found them there, you will need to drill the plastic side so it will pass rod through


----------



## DssBB

EPLC.

The white plastic I made the bow holders from is UHMW. Being a toolmaker, I have access to a lot of various metals and plastics at my disposal. You may wish to check in your local area for plastic suppliers or oder some from McMaster Carr. 
I've also installed heli-coils into the UHMW bow holder block to ensure the rotational adjusting / locking screw from the back along with 2 screws from the front which hold the bow in place do not tear or strip the threads out over time.
McMaster will also have the threaded thru knobs the Kwik shooter uses.


----------



## Deer Eliminator

bcbow1971 said:


> Check Lowes, I found them there, you will need to drill the plastic side so it will pass rod through


X2 Lowes has them I used them for my string jig. Also lawn mowers have the ones on the handles, the dump usually has a ton of them. 


Hutch


----------



## EPLC

Here are some pics of the somewhat finished shooter. It repeats quite well. 
Pic 1 is the shooter at full draw.
Pic 2 shows the release slider.
Pic 3 shows the bow leveler.
Pic 4 shows the reverse bow holder.


----------



## Bnbfishin

MAn I'm subscribing and going to start my own version of this in the very near future


----------



## EPLC

*More pics*

Here's the detail of the design... I'm very pleased with the shooter in this configuration. It seems to group well for tuning arrows and as a draw board I've been able to tweek my timing to produce better groups.


----------



## EPLC

Ok, I'm no Jessie Broadwater but I'm seeing better groups since tweeking my tune with the new shooter. This was shot this morning at 20 yards (by me, not the machine). It was only a 294 but the first 3 nines were the result of a sight setting early on.


----------



## bfoot

The problems with lasers is that after you get out over 20yds even the best laser, the do is going to get larger and more blurred making it unusable for precise targeting. I bet sighting through a peep will be more accurate at 50yds, I have a laser meant to be mounted on a pistol and it rapidly becomes useless over 15-20 yds. 
Just something to consider before putting too much effort in how to mount it.


----------



## L.I.Archer

bfoot said:


> The problems with lasers is that after you get out over 20yds even the best laser, the do is going to get larger and more blurred making it unusable for precise targeting. I bet sighting through a peep will be more accurate at 50yds, I have a laser meant to be mounted on a pistol and it rapidly becomes useless over 15-20 yds.
> Just something to consider before putting too much effort in how to mount it.


Pistol lasers are good for short range. You need a green laser made for sighting in a rifle.


----------



## bcbow1971

bfoot said:


> The problems with lasers is that after you get out over 20yds even the best laser, the do is going to get larger and more blurred making it unusable for precise targeting. I bet sighting through a peep will be more accurate at 50yds, I have a laser meant to be mounted on a pistol and it rapidly becomes useless over 15-20 yds.
> Just something to consider before putting too much effort in how to mount it.




You just need a small aiming spot at around 10-15ft in fron t of target, and use that for all ranges


----------



## ak68

I had a question about using a laser. When using the ryobi shooter why do you need a lateral and vertical adjustment for the laser? wouldn't you just attach it to you bow stabilizer the mark where it points and shoot. Then you could put the laser back on the same marked spot and your next shot should be to the same impact point.
What am I missing here?


----------



## DssBB

ak68,

The laser just acts as a reference point so you can be sure the shooter has not moved between shots. It doesn't matter where on the target the laser pointer hits as long as it is at the same spot for each shot. You aim the bow with the peep and sight and the whole objective is to have all your arrows impact at the same spot on the bag. A decent laser will produce and maintain a small clear dot out to well beyond 100 yds.


----------



## ak68

Thank you. I just bought a green laser that does have a tight green spot out to over 70 yards that I can easily see.


----------



## ebayollis

awesome setup!


----------



## mxtuner1

Why not have the laser pointed at something like another target closer range for clarity (say 20 yards) repeat the laser setting at 20 and your "shooter" would still be sighted at whatever distance you just shot? First shot use pins to hit target. When on target at requested distance, sight laser at something closer so you can repeat with much more precision, still checking that sight is on 70 or whatever. Disregard first shot as it was done with the human eye and you are just using to get on target and to use to get laser precision. After that fire and test away.


----------



## mobuckhunter84

I just read this entire thread. I love it. The only problem that I am having is how to build the grip holder. I don't need anything fancy. I shoot a Heli-M Just wondering what the best way to go about it is. I just put a HDx rest on and now I am worried about clearance when I build this device.


----------



## mobuckhunter84

So it begins....


----------



## norconkm

To add to the collective knowledge on this topic... I bought a "Port-A-Mate" miter stand at Menards. It was $30, and the $70 difference was compelling enough to convince me. I stopped today at Home Depot and looked at the Ryobi, and for those who are wondering, it is vastly more heavy duty. The Ryobi feels solid where as the Port-A-Mate one feels cheap in comparison (go figure). The Port-A-Mate is probably a foot narrower and weighs 1/3 less. I'm going to unbox it and set it up, but it may end up getting returned. On one hand, if I can save $70 on a $160 project, that's nice. On the other, if it doesn't hold up, then the whole concept is useless.


----------



## mobuckhunter84

Just need some more materials. I got most of it done tonight. Need to get the grip tighter and pad it. Thanks for the ideas.


----------



## mobuckhunter84

Building the holder.


----------



## mobuckhunter84

Shooting through the same hole every time. At least until I accidentally kick it.


----------



## B0hunt3r39

Got my draw board built, took the idea from the starter of the thread, thought I would bow the pic


----------



## REB57

Starting mine today......thanks to all for the great ideas


----------



## Ancient Archer

ak68 said:


> Thank you. I just bought a green laser that does have a tight green spot out to over 70 yards that I can easily see.


Any chance you could post which one you bought & where you bought it?
Thanks!


----------



## DCStudent

Sweet. I'm learning more and more by spending time on AT so please forgive me if this seems like a dumb question, but what would you use one of these for?


----------



## Beastmaster

DCStudent said:


> Sweet. I'm learning more and more by spending time on AT so please forgive me if this seems like a dumb question, but what would you use one of these for?


Specifically for two primary things.

1) Checking timing of the bow.
2) Doing arrow flight tests - this eliminates the human factor.


----------



## FullDrawMedic

Going to start mine next week. Great thread!


----------



## ak68

Ancient Archer said:


> Any chance you could post which one you bought & where you bought it?
> Thanks!


I got my laser through Amazon. It is a BTG - 2S plus Factory Tuned Constant On/Off Green Laser Pointer (New) 
From Z-Bolt Laser Products


----------



## REB57

Also allows for correctly:
measuring peep site elevation (so you can set up another bow to the same elevation even if it has a different string angle)
checking for arrow nock pinch
setting correct arrow rest elevation (starting point is best done at full draw if you have heavy arrows/points on a spring rest)
allows you to shoot/set-up your bow even when you have an injury that otherwise wouldn't allow you to shoot (I really like this one)
Its just a cool gizmo


----------



## bfoot

Also allows you to spec you string set under 100lbs tension (most overlooked tuning issue and should be done first), set let off, check draw weigth, ensure that your bow is coming to full draw weight within the first 6-7" of draw. This ensures the bow is getting the best draw curve for speed. Also this makes sure you initial cam position is maximized.

You will need to buy a scale to use with your draw board. I highly suggest buying a good quality mechanical dial type scale. I have used digitals but they are hard to read, freeze at a weight if left there more than a few seconds and break easily if (when) dropped. I found a 110 lb mechanical dial scale on Ebay for about $25. Very large dial and accurate within one pound. You need a scale that goes at least to 100lbs in order to spec your string set under 100lbs tension. This is the standard for measuring string sets and I always measure mine even if new from a string builder and every new bow I get. It saves literally hours of frustration when tuning. If done very very precisely (measure from where loop contacts post not outside of loop) you will find that only a couple of twists are needed to get perfect sych and timing. And usually your brace and ata will be dead on.


----------



## bfoot

mobuckhunter84 said:


> Shooting through the same hole every time. At least until I accidentally kick it.



Could you please show more close up pictures on the way you adjust for shooting please.


----------



## roosclan

What scale are you all using on your draw board/ shooter? I'm looking for one that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. The only one I've found that is fairly affordable and goes over 100lbs is the American Weight H-110 hanging scale (for luggage, I think), but it seems to be discontinued.


----------



## brdymakr

Awesome thread...definitely going to add one of these to the shop at home...Archers helping Archers at its finest here folks...Thanks


----------



## fallhunter

I need to make one of these right away


----------



## rsully661

if i set this up in a blind would my handicap nephew be able to activate the release on a turkey and not have the winch bust him in the mouth ,promised him a pig and turkey this year and im gonna do everything i can to make it happen


----------



## FullDrawMedic

rsully661 said:


> if i set this up in a blind would my handicap nephew be able to activate the release on a turkey and not have the winch bust him in the mouth ,promised him a pig and turkey this year and im gonna do everything i can to make it happen


The winch arm shouldn't move when you fire it. Only problem would be the aiming part.


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## ncbowhunter36

This is a good thread should a sticky.


----------



## yanny

Read the entire thread the last couple days. Bought a Ryobi stand and built my shooter/drawboard in 2.5 hours. I used an old Cobra release which also functions as a turnbuckle to fine tune draw length. I used the reversed u-bolt to hold the bow. I used a piece of marine fuel line slid over the u-bolt. When I slid the rubber hose over the u-bolt I sprayed it with WD 40. It slides on the u-bolt with such ease it is almost like using a roller bearing. This design should remove 99.99% of any type of bow torque.

I used what I felt was the best ideas from everybody who has contributed and I'm very happy with the way it turned out. Using it as a draw board I determined my cam timing is a little out (I guess I better finish the bow press I started months ago...)

Tonight I'm going to design something to keep the bow from canting when at full draw to keep my bubble in my sight window consistent from shot to shot. I'm going to try and use left over pieces from the Ryobi stand if possible.

The final step will be mounting the lazer I have to help ensure consistent POA and hopefully POI.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed.


----------



## elkbow69

Pics???


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## yanny

*pics*



elkbow69 said:


> Pics???


I'll try and post some pics tonight if I get the chance. 

I ended up using a clamp and a piece of fuel line to help keep the bow level in the shooting machine. 

I used an old prong rest I had kicking around to mount my lazer pointer right underneath my site. I have the ability to adjust elevation and windage. I think it will work great.


----------



## yanny

*pics*



elkbow69 said:


> Pics???


Materials List:
1 Ryobi Stand
11 u-bolts 2" wide by 1/4 diamter
1 square 2" u-bolt 1/4 diameter
8" marine 5/16 fuel line
1 winch with strap
1 turn buckle
1 cobra release
2 cotter pins (used as a safety if the set screw knobs fail on the arm that holds the bow out from the stand)
1 Large Clamp
WD 40
Fuzzy Stuff
2 quick links

Tools:
Corless drill
Hack Saw

Optional Lazer Aiming Device:
Prong rest
Lazer pointer
Tie Wrap

Bow Holder: 2" u-bolt, fuel line, WD 40 to make the fuel line slide on u-bolt, Fuzzy Stuff








Shot at 2012-03-28

Release end strap support: 2" square U-bolt to hold strap, 1 T bar from Ryobi Stand, arm is made from Ryobi extension arm that isn't used, u-bolts to hold it down








Shot at 2012-03-28

Vertical Bow Alignment: Clamp and piece of fuel line hose to keep bubble level on site








Shot at 2012-03-28

Cobra Release: doubles as a turn buckle to fine tune draw length








Shot at 2012-03-28

Draw Board Hook: turn buckle instead of release for drawboard use








Shot at 2012-03-28

Optional Lazer for aiming: Prong Rest and Military Grade Green Lazer pointer








Shot at 2012-03-28








Shot at 2012-03-28

I've shot 3 arrows from the machine at less than 5 yards in the basement. The lazer pointer seems to be repeatable and the arrow hit the same hole all 3 times and almost passed through my bag target. Can't wait to get it outside.


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## huntnfishnut

This is definitely on my list after a press


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## yanny

This project is far easier than building a press. I'm still not done mine. Not sure what to use for fingers and how adjustable it needs to be to fit bows other than my own.


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## EugeneB

Excellent thread ... thanks!


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## Super 91

Great thread with lots of innovative ideas. Looks like I will be making mine this weekend.


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## anarchyhunter80

straddleridge said:


> I demonstrated my ryobi robo shooter to my wife. Pointed out the hole in the target and then shot. Arrow hit the same hole. Wife says "are you going to take that thing out into the woods hunting with you?" Told her no. She says "Then what good is it?" I gave up.


that's something my wife would say. this is an amazing post guys, i love all the mods.


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## bfoot

roosclan said:


> What scale are you all using on your draw board/ shooter? I'm looking for one that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. The only one I've found that is fairly affordable and goes over 100lbs is the American Weight H-110 hanging scale (for luggage, I think), but it seems to be discontinued.


I have had several and paid four times as much for my last one and I like this one much better. Goes to 110lbs

Here is the link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/160705717422...84.m1439.l2649


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## WABowhuntr

Boy am I glad I came across this thread! Initial build was completed today. I'll make changes along the way as needed. Here's what I have so far. Thanks to everyone for sharing pics/ideas/ thoughts on this one!


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## droptine801

I have to give a thanks to my girlfriend she made me go to a yard sale while she was looking there was a tool area there it was a Ryobi miter saw stand you guys wont believe the price $20 cause it missing the saw mounting brackets cant wait to get started .
I was thinking of using some unistrut and some U-bolts as replacements what do you think will that work


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## Beastmaster

Bump.


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## ftshooter

Very cool indeed...


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## ftshooter

I wanted to add to the reasons for this build ...could be arrow tuning as well ,,making sure you spine is right and each arrow shooting the same etc..


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## bjesse60

Might be a dumb question, but could this be used to broad head tune a bow for the best rest position between FP & BH impact?


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## ftshooter

bjesse60 said:


> Might be a dumb question, but could this be used to broad head tune a bow for the best rest position between FP & BH impact?


I would think so...Takes the person out of the equation....


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## tllhunter

has anyone perfected a method to hold the bow securely while also being repeatable. I am very happy with my system except the way the bow is held. It is not repeatable 100% of the time. I'm looking for a better way.


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## L.I.Archer

tllhunter said:


> has anyone perfected a method to hold the bow securely while also being repeatable. I am very happy with my system except the way the bow is held. It is not repeatable 100% of the time. I'm looking for a better way.


Yes, I have. I basically took that 3/8" dia. hook bolt and made a square hook from it, using a propane torch and a pipe to bend the rod after heating it up til it was red hot. Then I put 4 layers of shrink tubing around the 3 sides of the square hook. Where the hook bolt goes into the t-bar (which I cut, btw), there are nuts and washers sandwiching a round, wooden insert that holds the hook bolt in place. In front of it, I have a 1/2" pipe with a 3/8" rod inserted into it with a foam cushion to keep the bow from jumping off the hook. I'll take a picture of it on Tuesday to show you how I refined it. This hook holds every bow with every combination of rest available. There's no interference with the QAD flipper or Hoyt's arcing "design feature" behind the grip.


----------



## carlosii

L.I.Archer said:


> Yes, I have. I basically took that 3/8" dia. hook bolt and made a square hook from it, using a propane torch and a pipe to bend the rod after heating it up til it was red hot. Then I put 4 layers of shrink tubing around the 3 sides of the square hook. Where the hook bolt goes into the t-bar (which I cut, btw), there are nuts and washers sandwiching a round, wooden insert that holds the hook bolt in place. In front of it, I have a 1/2" pipe with a 3/8" rod inserted into it with a foam cushion to keep the bow from jumping off the hook. I'll take a picture of it on Tuesday to show you how I refined it. This hook holds every bow with every combination of rest available. There's no interference with the QAD flipper or Hoyt's arcing "design feature" behind the grip.


pictures????


----------



## bginvestor

EPLC said:


> So, nobody has a specific dimention from the grip to the release?


This dimension is custom to you.

I would take a broadside picture of your form , scan it into the computer, and use software to accurately come up with the dimension.


----------



## carlosii

norconkm said:


> To add to the collective knowledge on this topic... I bought a "Port-A-Mate" miter stand at Menards. It was $30, and the $70 difference was compelling enough to convince me. I stopped today at Home Depot and looked at the Ryobi, and for those who are wondering, it is vastly more heavy duty. The Ryobi feels solid where as the Port-A-Mate one feels cheap in comparison (go figure). The Port-A-Mate is probably a foot narrower and weighs 1/3 less. I'm going to unbox it and set it up, but it may end up getting returned. On one hand, if I can save $70 on a $160 project, that's nice. On the other, if it doesn't hold up, then the whole concept is useless.


which model Port a Mate did you buy? the 3800?


----------



## L.I.Archer

carlosii said:


> pictures????


I'll try to get some pictures tomorrow. I have nursing school 4 days a week and I'm off Fridays, for now.


----------



## redman

i need to make one great info


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## tllhunter

Hey L.I.Archer, still waiting on pictures. Would really appreciate them. Good luck with school, I to am a nurse.


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## BringEmNorth

Awesome thread and great work from everyone! I'll be building one soon!


----------



## L.I.Archer

tllhunter said:


> Hey L.I.Archer, still waiting on pictures. Would really appreciate them. Good luck with school, I to am a nurse.


Took pictures today


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## fishuntbike

I revisited my shooter tonight and mounted the red dot. I was shooting my son's Hoyt Ruckus and it was a lot of fun. One of this day I have to take it outside for a long range shooting.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


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## Stab 'em

Some of you guys have mentioned that you want a little more consistency between shots. This style of grip will help with that, as it allows the bow to be held in a consistent manner and also allows it to rotate on an axis. This does not let torque to be induced into the tiller (pulling one limb more than another) because "hand" rotates as the bow is being drawn and allows it to fall forward at the shot. It was fairly simple to make, using only a drill press, a hack saw, files, and some sweat equity.

www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1162131


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## bginvestor

Here's my fancy draw board. Soon it will be a shooter after I find a suitable release. Having the EZ style press next to the draw board is awesome for tuning!

The one feature that I really like is the ruler to match draw length each time for shot repeatability. Enjoy the pics..


----------



## bginvestor

Ok, so my man cave is orange faux, you got a problem w/ that? lol.. My man cave is the last room to be painted in the house. What's higher priority, build an awesome draw board or paint the walls? I know, I know.

Anyway, for micro tuning , the plan is to use vertical and horizontal adjustments at the location of where the strap rolls over the support bar. The micro adjust in horizontal will be moving the strap slightly to the left or right and hold it down with a clap or similar device. For vertical, using existing adjustments.. If laser doesn't show good repeatability, build a micro vertical adjustment at the strap support location. 

Cheers..


----------



## mobuckhunter84

Well I made the shooter a few months ago and I have been having problems using it with my heli-m with a QAD rest. I was in the hardware store the other day and I think I have solved it perfectly. Sorry if this idea has already been posted I haven't had time to catch back up on this thread. it's simple a J bolt fits perfect. Just use two nuts


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## L.I.Archer

Good idea, but what happens when the bow tips/jumps forward? You're going to bang the bow against the aluminum tube and the nuts holding the J-bolt in, and risk scratching up the riser. And if the bow slips down, now you're going to hit the sight.


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## mobuckhunter84

I have just been catching it every time. I can't emphasize how well this works. There is no torque on it period. It doesn't jump but a half inch and just pull the trigger then simply grab the riser. I have been using it with my #70 helium and two #70 pound Parker's. It doesn't jump far at all. Also I am sure you could use a strap or something to hold it if you want. I am just being super carful not to torque it and get a true shot. My Parker's don't fall out of it. My heli-m will but I takes about a second for it to. Like I said I just grab it after it sounds scary, but it really isn't.


----------



## mobuckhunter84

Also I have taped all the areas where it can hit to avoid scratches.


----------



## bernies boy

Hey Beastmaster:
Wow man, thanks soooo much for posting this idea. A buddy and I just finished building one and it was very easy and cost was right on the money. If you ever get to northern Wyoming let me know and I will buy you a beer or two.


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## Scott D.

Look on ebay, plenty of miter saw stands there. Mobuck, you can put some shrink tubing on the bolt, and there is a rubber tape that electricians use as well. I'm not a mathews fan, but that helim is so well balanced I can't see it doing much but sitting there. A quest or pse, oh yea, catch it like now!!


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## shotime

going today and get the parts thanks


----------



## mobuckhunter84

Scott D. said:


> Look on ebay, plenty of miter saw stands there. Mobuck, you can put some shrink tubing on the bolt, and there is a rubber tape that electricians use as well. I'm not a mathews fan, but that helim is so well balanced I can't see it doing much but sitting there. A quest or pse, oh yea, catch it like now!!


Thanks. I used some good electrical tape and it has done the trick. I shot my buddies PSE and it wanted to jump out, but not to the point where it hit. I went ahead and wrapped the other part in pipe insulation like you would use on you home ac lines outside. I have two parkers (I work for them as a field staff). They don't jump either. My buddies Hoyt CRX 32 doesn't jump either. Just have to catch it from falling.


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## NJlungbuster

Great thread. As soon as I get some money I'm building one.


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## NJlungbuster

I'm gonna bump this again because I feel it needs to stay near the top.


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## jschins

this looks like a great winter project..

thanks for all the great ideas.
Jerry


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## tpepper70

Wow. Awesome work and now I have some great ideas. Thanks for this thread.

Lovin' God and Life


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## ORROSS334

Great thread and gonna have to make one this winter


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## TheLongbowShoot

Very nice job! Can you image the groups you could do with that!


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## yanny

bjesse60 said:


> Might be a dumb question, but could this be used to broad head tune a bow for the best rest position between FP & BH impact?



I used my shooter to get my broadheads hitting with my field points this year. At 40 yards I was within a couple inches. I took the bow out of the shooter and experienced similar results shooting the bow myself. I've been shooting the same bow, same draw weight, and same arrows for quite a while. My setup is very good.

A buddy came over with his new APA Viper one day. He was getting pretty good groups and his BH and FP's were grouping pretty good with each other. Once it got dark I put my lazer on his bow and we tweaked his setup until the BH's and FP's were hitting together. Next day he took his bow out and had to start over. His broadheads were flying terrible and were way off POA. A few rest adjustments and he was good to go but he has little faith in my shooting machine.

When you broadhead tune with the shooting machine you are taking out all or most of the torque that a person would apply to the bow. A perfect tune with the shooting machine may be useless if the person can't duplicate a torque free grip. I believe this is the reason my buddy had to start over with his bow. I use to joke around and call him left tare. He can pick up any tuned bow and produce a left tare while paper tuning. I can pick up the same bow and produce a bullet hole.

Torque won't be the only variable that would come into play. I believe arrow spine, broadhead alignment (straightness and orientation), and a surprise release are just as important when broadhead tuning.


----------



## Eliteonly

I built my own for my shop and life has been so much easier! Being that we sell Binary and Hybrid cam bows, Ive came to realize its absolutely lovely to have for tuning cams, drawing, timing rests. Beats tearing my shoulders up on customer work when I don't have to! I too used the Ryobi stand. I am wanting to add a new grip, a scale and a ruler for checking draw length. Pretty sweet!


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## YankeeRebel

Sweet!! Thanx for sharing!! :thumb:


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## yanny

To expand a little on my last post about broadhead tuning with a shooting machine.

My buddy shoots his bow very well when it is tuned to his form and mechanics but his pins are way out to the left (they don't line up with the arrow and string). When he shoots my bow he hits way left and high of POA and when I shoot his I hit way right and low of POA. This being said, when we put his bow in the shooting machine the results are very similar to the way I shoot his bow. When we put my bow in the shooting machine the results are almost exactly the same as when I shoot it.

Moral of the story, if you can't get very similar results using the shooting machine compared to shooting it yourself, don't bother trying to broadhead tune with it. If your POA and POI are the same using the shooting machine go a head and get it fine tuned with the machine.


----------



## Hoyt BH

This a great thread, I'll be making one myself this winter.


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## Bownut400

Today you have got me into the shooting machine building mood. I had to pay full price for the stand but I had to have it while I had the money and a little time. I forgot to say thanks to Beastmaster for the idea that started 2 yrs ago. Way to go!!


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## tatkins85

Could 3rd axis on my sight be set using this homemade hooter shooter.


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## eskimoohunt

Can you show another pic of how exactly the bow is held to the draw machine?..


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## BowBaker1640

eskimoohunt said:


> Can you show another pic of how exactly the bow is held to the draw machine?..


there are several different systems shown of holding the bow


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## roosclan

How well does this shooter work for lefty and righty bows? We have 3 left-eye dominant shooters and one right-eye-dominant shooter in our family. Are theyre any changes that need to be made? Oh, and I use a Trophy Ridge Revolution rest.

I have a cable winch from Harbor Freight, so I am slowly gathering what I need.


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## 4shotshy

ttt so i can find this again


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## Dakota6gun

Nearest Home Depot is 75 miles. I hit a Lowes today to see what they sell similar to the Ryobi miter saw stand. They had a Skill brand stand marked at $79. Normally retails $119. Caught a sales person and he grabbed the sale tag, called a supervisor and they quickly determined it was a mis-mark. They sold me a stand for $79 because it had been marked at that price  I'll post pics as I build mine. Once in a while even a blind squirrel finds nut!


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## redman

like to build one great way to test arrows


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## 10%FOC

Is the consensus of this thread still that the Ryobi stand works the best? Anyone finding it cheaper than $99 at Home Depot?


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## L.I.Archer

10%FOC said:


> Is the consensus of this thread still that the Ryobi stand works the best? Anyone finding it cheaper than $99 at Home Depot?


This is too funny. When H.D. were looking to phase them out, Beastmaster went and picked one up for $75 (I did the same). After this thread came out, everyone wanted one and demand for it jumped so high that H.D. couldn't keep them in stock! And now that demand has gone back up, they went and raised the prices back up to $99. American consumerism at its best!!


----------



## henro

Just bought one from H.D. and had to pay $99... Can't wait to get this thing built!


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## soldier1265

i will get some pics up of mine. just got it 100% finished up about a week ago.


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## krffrog

New member wanted to thank everyone for all great information


----------



## dpete

I just found this great thread and have questions about bow placement on the stand itself. After going through about 6 pages of this thread, all of the bows I've seen in pictures are mounted on the right side of the stand when looking at the stand from the back. Why? 
Is the stand simulating the left hand of a right handed archer holding the bow from the left? Or is it just a matter of personal preference?


----------



## 10%FOC

dpete said:


> I just found this great thread and have questions about bow placement on the stand itself. After going through about 6 pages of this thread, all of the bows I've seen in pictures are mounted on the right side of the stand when looking at the stand from the back. Why?
> Is the stand simulating the left hand of a right handed archer holding the bow from the left? Or is it just a matter of personal preference?


I haven't made this yet, but plan to shortly. So I'm not speaking from experience here. It seems the bows are setting up on the right side due to the fact the sliding mounts where the winch attaches to overhangs on the right side of the stand. Therefore the bow would need to be on the right side of the front T-Bar to line up evenly in front of the winch. Perhaps if the overhang of the mounts and the T-Bar is able to be reversed to the left side it wouldn't really matter.

Again, not speaking from experience just perception.


----------



## lc12

10%FOC said:


> Is the consensus of this thread still that the Ryobi stand works the best? Anyone finding it cheaper than $99 at Home Depot?


I just bought a Ryobi stand at a Discount Tools store for $79, NIB.


----------



## dpete

10%FOC said:


> I haven't made this yet, but plan to shortly. So I'm not speaking from experience here. It seems the bows are setting up on the right side due to the fact the sliding mounts where the winch attaches to overhangs on the right side of the stand. Therefore the bow would need to be on the right side of the front T-Bar to line up evenly in front of the winch. Perhaps if the overhang of the mounts and the T-Bar is able to be reversed to the left side it wouldn't really matter.
> 
> Again, not speaking from experience just perception.


Understood. The reason I asked is because I have a DeWalt stand and know that the saw brackets that the winch mounts to can be used on either side. The DeWalt stand has a similar setup but the rests at the ends of the arms are flat instead of tubular. If I can modify it I may have a rig for under $50.


----------



## dpete

lc12 said:


> I just bought a Ryobi stand at a Discount Tools store for $79, NIB.


The name of the store is Discount Tools? Hmmm, I wish they were here in this neck of the woods.


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## tjhostle

Love this just ordered all the stuff today I might actually try to make one slight modification and drill a hole through where you mount the bow and run a bolt through it to attach to where the back stab hooks on so that it might hold it more securly I'll keep you updated


----------



## Livn-Lg

This may be a really stupid question but I have to ask. After looking at everyone trying to make the bow holder I had the question in my mind of how much torque the Stabilizer mount can handle. Could that mount be used to hold the bow? Maybe an additional support can be rested against the front or back of the handle to reduce stress? Seems like this would allow any bow to be mounted easily. Just a thought but i do not know enough about these bows yet to answer my own question. Thanks


----------



## lc12

dpete said:


> The name of the store is Discount Tools? Hmmm, I wish they were here in this neck of the woods.


Yes, Discount Tools.
In my neck of the woods one is located in Osage Beach, MO at Lake of the Ozarks, in the Mall complex. They did not have any in stock this summer.
The other one is located in the Tanger Outlet Mall at Branson, MO. They had a bunch in stock at $79.00.
They called them "blemished" only because they were packed in a plain box. Mine was PERFECT! I highly recommend this stand.
I started assembly last night using the "best of the best" from the past threads, and like the rest of you started my own modifications.
For the bow grip I am using the same thing I used on a wooden drawboard I built a couple of years ago, and that is the rubber "Vee" that is used on the front of boat trailers as a "bump stop" when loading the boat.
I used a round sanding drum, 1.5" in diameter to shape the inside of the "vee" to more closely resemble a hand grip.
I then turned the grip, with the "vee" facing up on my drill press and used a 3/4" Forstner bit to start a countersink hole that is flat bottomed and drilled a 1/2" deep hole.
When using the Forstner bit it drills a flat bottomed hole, but there will be a "dimple" from the bit's "starter" point.
I used this dimple to then drill a 5/16" hole all of the way through the rubber block.
The block comes with a hole drilled through the SIDE of the block for attaching to a trailer. I used this hole to run a rubber "ball type" bungee through it to secure the bow to the block. Then I ran a 5/16" CARRIAGE BOLT through the drilled hole in the "vee". The countersink protects the grip from the head of the bolt.
I drilled a 5/16" hole through the "T" on the Ryobi stand and attached the block to the "T" with the single bolt. The rubber "Vee" goes right up against the "T"
and I used a flat washer and a lock washer on the opposite side.
You have to be careful running the carriage bolt through the "vee" as you have to remember you have the rubber bungee cord going through the side hole!
The bolt helps to lock the bungee in place too!
I don't have any pics yet so I hope the lengthy explanation helps.
One thing I plan on doing is making some "hangers on the front and rear, near the legs to hang some 5 gallon buckets from. I am going to fill them with old tire weights that you can get for almost nothing at most tire stores.
You don't have to fill them completely as the weights are almost as heavy as lead and you sure don't want to be lifting these much!!!


----------



## lc12

I just checked out this post: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1162131
and another idea just hit me!
I am thinking that if I wanted my "bow grip" to float, or swing with the bow upon the shot, that a person could use the side holes as the rubber "Vee" comes from the factory, and just slide a bolt through the holes and attach the bolt to the "shooter".
As with the post, a person can use the stop collars to adjust tension on the grip.
The problem I see is getting the bolt attached firmly enough to not be a "weak point".
I may have to get the gears in my brain turning again.
This is a fun project that is second only to the press I built off of gunner7800's plans.
Thanks Beastmaster (Steve)!

A side note: I just read post #606 whereas the OP also used a "bow mount vee" as his bow grip.
I guess I need to read through ALL of these threads for additional ideas!!!


----------



## 10%FOC

lc12 said:


> I just checked out this post: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1162131
> and another idea just hit me!
> I am thinking that if I wanted my "bow grip" to float, or swing with the bow upon the shot, that a person could use the side holes as the rubber "Vee" comes from the factory, and just slide a bolt through the holes and attach the bolt to the "shooter".
> As with the post, a person can use the stop collars to adjust tension on the grip.
> The problem I see is getting the bolt attached firmly enough to not be a "weak point".
> I may have to get the gears in my brain turning again.
> This is a fun project that is second only to the press I built off of gunner7800's plans.
> Thanks Beastmaster (Steve)!
> 
> A side note: I just read post #606 whereas the OP also used a "bow mount vee" as his bow grip.
> I guess I need to read through ALL of these threads for additional ideas!!!


Is this the type of rubber vee your referring to?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Inch-Moun...Yellow-Molded-Rubber-V-Bow-Stop-/120833807936


----------



## Neophyte2

dpete said:


> I just found this great thread and have questions about bow placement on the stand itself. After going through about 6 pages of this thread, all of the bows I've seen in pictures are mounted on the right side of the stand when looking at the stand from the back. Why?
> Is the stand simulating the left hand of a right handed archer holding the bow from the left? Or is it just a matter of personal preference?


 Maybe it's so the crank on the winch will be in the clear?


----------



## 07commander

Livn-Lg said:


> This may be a really stupid question but I have to ask. After looking at everyone trying to make the bow holder I had the question in my mind of how much torque the Stabilizer mount can handle. Could that mount be used to hold the bow? Maybe an additional support can be rested against the front or back of the handle to reduce stress? Seems like this would allow any bow to be mounted easily. Just a thought but i do not know enough about these bows yet to answer my own question. Thanks


I've thought about mounting with the stabilizer hole also. I don't think it would be a good idea unless like you said, you brace it with additional support against the riser somewhere else. And even then, not sure if you want the bow mounted that solid. Think it would be better to be able to sort of float or move at the shot. JMO


----------



## dpete

Somewhere in this mass of postings it was discussed that the bow has to float somewhat like it would in your hand.


----------



## Beastmaster

07commander said:


> I've thought about mounting with the stabilizer hole also. I don't think it would be a good idea unless like you said, you brace it with additional support against the riser somewhere else. And even then, not sure if you want the bow mounted that solid. Think it would be better to be able to sort of float or move at the shot. JMO





dpete said:


> Somewhere in this mass of postings it was discussed that the bow has to float somewhat like it would in your hand.


It should float. And the Stabilizer hole isn't designed to take the weight of the bow plus the stress of shooting. In some cases, it's glued in. Others, it's screwed in. No matter what, it won't handle the abuse.


----------



## lc12

10%FOC said:


> Is this the type of rubber vee your referring to?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Inch-Moun...Yellow-Molded-Rubber-V-Bow-Stop-/120833807936


Similar to that one. The one you show would work too, but mine is a black, softer rubber, vee mount that I bought at Bass Pro Shop for around $8.00.
I liked the softer material and it was easy to shape with a drum sander.
I tried it out last night and it holds the bow well, but I need to do something about the bow "dropping away" after the shot as I want it to float just a bit, but I don't want it falling out of my "hand" either!
I am currently thinking of drilling a hole completely through the square tube that the "roller" sits on top of (the T-bar) and put a padded bolt, or pin through it.
That way, upon the release, the bow will tilt slightly forward and the bottom limb will be stopped by the padded pin preventing it from coming to far forward.
I believe I was inspired by L.I.Archer's shooter for this idea.
I could drill multiple holes thereby allowing me to adjust for different length bows too!
Thanks for the ideas guys.
Oh, also I used the worm gear winch on my first drawboard, and then bought the manual crank winch as was listed by the OP in his original post.
I think my preference leans toward the worm gear winch, but I cannot get one with a strap. It only comes with a cable, which is what I used on my drawboard.
But for a "shooter" I really like the strap version.
But on the crank winch I still double nutted the crank shaft and can still use my drill with 19mm deep well socket from my worm gear winch and it makes the cranking process a lot faster.
Still working on improving my release aid. I had an old Cobra release that I removed from the strap. I am putting the head of the release onto a turnbuckle, but I found out the release's bolt was a fine thread and turnbuckles are a coarse thread.
So I will be buying the proper countersink head bolt and replace the release bolt with it.
Should any of you do the same just remember this: turnbuckles come with both LEFT hand, and RIGHT hand threads!!! Be sure you pick the right side and the right thread when making your attachment!!!!!


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## lc12

BTW, I am sure that somewhere in these 900 plus posts it has been mentioned, but I have read through it several times and a mention was made only once in regards to removing the "other" square tube that is NOT USED for this shooter.
Does anyone know what the trick is?
When you slide it out to the end it "sticks" and comes to a stop and cannot be pulled out. I am sure there is some kind of swedge or stop weld that prevents the tube from coming out.
I thought you could remove the end plate that has the two screws in it, but then discovered that the round tube is welded or epoxied to the end plate preventing it's removal.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.


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## bcbow1971

lc12 said:


> BTW, I am sure that somewhere in these 900 plus posts it has been mentioned, but I have read through it several times and a mention was made only once in regards to removing the "other" square tube that is NOT USED for this shooter.
> Does anyone know what the trick is?
> When you slide it out to the end it "sticks" and comes to a stop and cannot be pulled out. I am sure there is some kind of swedge or stop weld that prevents the tube from coming out.
> I thought you could remove the end plate that has the two screws in it, but then discovered that the round tube is welded or epoxied to the end plate preventing it's removal.
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.


Lonnie I believe there was a set screw and I removed it and took it out. 

Also mine works great and love the fleece covered U Bolt!!! No torque!


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## EPLC

View attachment 1607504


While these are a lot of fun, there is a flaw in the basic design. The bow having to move at the grip to aim at the target is the problem. Raising or lowering the release point is the only way to aim this design. In order to be more consistent the bow and release should be locked in while all the aiming takes place with a separate unit. I built a seprate unit for mine and the shooter was much improved as a result...


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## Unk Bond

10%FOC said:


> Is this the type of rubber vee your referring to?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Inch-Moun...Yellow-Molded-Rubber-V-Bow-Stop-/120833807936


=================

Hey guys do you have a answer to his question. I'm interested to find out to. Thanks [ Later


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## dpete

EPLC said:


> View attachment 1607504
> 
> 
> While these are a lot of fun, there is a flaw in the basic design. The bow having to move at the grip to aim at the target is the problem. Raising or lowering the release point is the only way to aim this design. In order to be more consistent the bow and release should be locked in while all the aiming takes place with a separate unit. I built a seprate unit for mine and the shooter was much improved as a result...


There is always raising either the front or rear legs on shims to change elevations. Granted its a pain but it also keeps the build less complicated.


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## dpete

Unk Bond said:


> =================
> 
> Hey guys do you have a answer to his question. I'm interested to find out to. Thanks [ Later


Something similar to that yes. There are a couple different types and sizes.


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## Unk Bond

dpete said:


> Something similar to that yes. There are a couple different types and sizes.


=====

Hello All
I ordered one we will see

Would you have a link to the others. Thanks [ Later


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## bowhunter518

awesome set up here, looks like i have my weekend project. THANKS


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## lc12

10%FOC said:


> Is this the type of rubber vee your referring to?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Inch-Moun...Yellow-Molded-Rubber-V-Bow-Stop-/120833807936





dpete said:


> Something similar to that yes. There are a couple different types and sizes.





Unk Bond said:


> =====
> 
> Hello All
> I ordered one we will see
> 
> Would you have a link to the others. Thanks [ Later


Hey Unk,
I posted an answer on post #918 an answer to the question.
It was kind of lengthy so you may have missed it.
The one you are getting will work. It is just a harder type of rubber.
I bought the softer BLACK rubber vee mount at Bass Pro Shops.
I used a drum sander in a hand drill to better shape the vee mount and it works great!


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## Unk Bond

lc12 said:


> Hey Unk,
> I posted an answer on post #918 an answer to the question.
> It was kind of lengthy so you may have missed it.
> The one you are getting will work. It is just a harder type of rubber.
> I bought the softer BLACK rubber vee mount at Bass Pro Shops.
> I used a drum sander in a hand drill to better shape the vee mount and it works great!


Hello All
Thanks for the input. Mine is on order. Need another project [ Smile[ Later


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## 07commander

EPLC said:


> View attachment 1607504
> 
> 
> While these are a lot of fun, there is a flaw in the basic design. The bow having to move at the grip to aim at the target is the problem. Raising or lowering the release point is the only way to aim this design. In order to be more consistent the bow and release should be locked in while all the aiming takes place with a separate unit. I built a seprate unit for mine and the shooter was much improved as a result...


I agree with you. I built one from scratch, and found out the same thing. Plus when the release is not attached to something, I had trouble because it moved back and forth sideways when you triggered it.


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## Stab 'em

07commander said:


> I agree with you. I built one from scratch, and found out the same thing. Plus when the release is not attached to something, I had trouble because it moved back and forth sideways when you triggered it.


FWIW, when I "trigger" my shooting machine I do it while looking through the peep sight, aligning the sight aperture and triggering it with my finger, just as if I were shooting. That way I know that there is a steady pull on the trigger, and I can "see" and make sure that the machine and bow are not being jolted or moved like what could happen if a string was "pulling" the machine and bow out of alignment with the target.

www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1162131


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## 07commander

I've since rigged mine up with a cable to trip it, like they use on a camera. I was trying to get the most consistency, with the least amount of human intervention. Just load an arrow and crank it back. Not messing around lining it up between shots or anything. I've been using it to test different combinations of arrow shafts and fletching combinations at 50 yds. Also, can chronograph at 50 yds. easily. Guess it all boils down to how far you want to take your design. Thats the beauty of DIY. Can make a project as simple or as complex as you want.


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## Tunaboy

Hey commander any more pics of your shooter?


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## 07commander

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1959268

Some pics here


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## redman

any one selling them all yeady made at a great price


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## lc12

ttt so I can find it quicker!


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## lc12

I am still refining my Ryo-Bow Shooter, but decided I should post some side notes that may be of help to those that take on this project.

1.) The tubes are just slightly over 1 3/4" in diameter so if you use U-Bolts, buy the 2" wide x 5/16" diameter ones. And get them in 4" lengths. These will work for just about any modification that you make to the stand.

2.) Use four of the above mentioned U-bolts to secure the "slide arms" that you bolt your winch to. This will keep it from lifting, or coming loose, when pulling a higher poundage bow, and is just good insurance. You only need two per arm and can offset them for better clearance. I ran the U=bolts from UNDER the tubes, along the sides fo the slider arm and then added the straps that come with the U-bolts across the tops of the slider arms. It ain't coming loose!!!

3.) I bought the winch as shown on the OP's original posting that has the ratchet strap. I think I would have preferred the worm gear winch, both of which are available at Harbor Freight, as I used the worm gear winch on my drawboard. But I am giving the ratchet winch a try.
A minor mod to the winch was in adding another nut to the winch handle thereby "double nutting" the handle stem. The "wrench" was slid onto the winch first and then the two nuts. By the way, the nuts are METRIC, as almost all things are that are bought at Harbor Frieght.
I may be mistaken, but I think the nut is a 12mm nut, and it takes a 19mm DEEP WELL SOCKET to slip over these double nuts. I used the crank handle from the worm gear winch and added the deep well socket to it, and I also purchased another 19mm deep well socket that I put a drill adapter on. I can use both of these on my drawboard AND my Ryo-Bow shooter! It speeds up the process in drawing the bow on either machine.

4.) Still on the winch mod. Regarding the strap and hook. The hook is way too heavy for the application and I wanted to get rid of it. It is to hard to "open" in any manner, and is closed too tight to slip the strap out of. I did not want to waste the hook so I clamped it into a vise and hacksawed 1/4" off where the strap was attached.
I then removed the strap and threw the hook into my "use for something else" box.
I then attached a "quick link" to the end loop of the strap. I will use this to add a "safety snap hook" and a turnbuckle for my release.

5.) Regarding the release. I had an older Cobra release that has a single bolt that attaches the head of the release to the strap with a nylock nut. I removed the nut and the release head from the strap (yes, the strap went into my "use for something else box" too! lol) and you will see that there is a "nut" at the head of the release.
The bolt for the release goes through this nut with a flanged head so that the release head will swivel. 
Remove the nut and the bolt and toss the bolt. You won't need it. 
I then took a piece of the HEAVY D-loop cord and ran it through the "eye" of a small turnbuckle and then passed BOTH ends of the cord through the nut that held the bolt for the release.
I used string wax on the cord and made an overhand knot and pulled it as tight as I could! With a bit of persuasion I was able to draw the nut down inside of the nut and then put the nut back onto the release head. Makes for a very nice "SHOOTER RELEASE"!

6.) For those of you that want to use the "spare" tubing to make more modifications to your saw, I discovered how to remove the whole bar without tearing the stand apart. If you look underneath the stand, each tube has a HOLE and a DIMPLE in it, near the ends of the stand. There is a screw in the bar that will come to a stop at the dimple, preventing the bar from sliding out of the stand. Remove the screw and remove the tube. There you go! msystery solved!!!

7.) I left the spare bar in my Ryo-Bow shooter as I am looking at adding a bow vise to it in the future and I am sure there are other ideas that can make this bar useful, but I did cut off a 12" piece for the "roller stand" modification that I did.
I took two U-Bolts and layed them on TOP of the tubes of the stand, near the center where the "brace divider bar" is located. I attached the 12" piece of tube UNDER the tubes. I also DRILLED four holes, 11/64" in diameter, into the bar so that the U-Bolts could be attached with washers and nuts. This way you can slide the square bar up and down the tube for more adjustments if you want, and I did not really want to have four U-Bolts hanging the bar, but a person could if they did not want to drill the tube.
I removed the "roller T-bar" from the spare end and attached it to this 12" bar so that I can make adjustments to my release height. When attaching the 12" bar be sure to leave at least one inch sticking out on the side away from the "roller T-bar" so that there is room for the drilled hole or U-Bolts.

7.) Because I cut the square tube, and I am picky about appearances, I bought some 1 1/4" end tube caps to cover the ends of the cut tube. It gives the tube a finished appearance and matches the rest of the stand. The inside of the tube measures one inch, BUT DON'T BUY THE ONE INCH END CAPS! You will be going back for the 1 1/4" ones. TRUST ME! I guess the measurement for the caps are for the outside portion. These caps can be found in the specialty hardware section of any good hardware store.

8.) While at Harbor Freight I bought several of the magnetic trays and put one on my Ryo-Bow shooter to hold any miscellaneous parts. Just kind of handy to have.
I put some on my string jig and bow press too!

9.) For the bow grip I used a rubber "Vee" that is used as a boat's bow bumper on a boat trailer. I picked mine up at Bass Pro Shop for around $9.00 and used a drum sander on a drill to shape the soft rubber to better conform to a bow's grip. I currently have the "ball bungees" as a means to hold the bow against the grip, but I am not completely happy with this. This is the one part of the whole machine that a person really wants to have right. The grip I mean!
Since the bow was tilting so far forward upon the shot I drilled several 5/16" holes into the square bar of the "roller T-bar" that the grip is attached to. I slid an 8" piece of 5/16" all thread through the hole and put a wing nut on one end, and a piece of rubber hose on the other. This acts as a bumper for the bottom limb of the bow and keeps the bow from leaning to far forward. This is still an "in progress" project and will probably be modified several times before I am happy with it.

10.) I will be hanging buckets from either end of the stand and will fill them with either sand or used tire weights to add "stabilizing" weight to the machine. You really want this machine weighted down for the very best accuracy.

Now all I have to do is decide as to whether or not I want to add some kind of laser sight to the machine for a "sighting" point. I don't know if it is really necessary, but can see where it would be handy to have.
You cannot beat the price for this project as I have less than $150.00 into it. Of course I already had the release but I am sure most of you have an old release laying around that you can use. Don't you? lol

I am attaching some pics that may better explain the written text above.


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## WadeRolandJames

you're a damn genius.....looks like I'm heading to the Depot....
I just need to somehow adapt the big T bar end....my QAD thumbwheel hits the Drawboard I made now with a 1/2" piece of galv pipe wrapped in electrical tape...Im not sure how I can get around this with this setup, but if theres a will, there's a way!


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## lc12

WadeRolandJames said:


> you're a damn genius.....looks like I'm heading to the Depot....
> I just need to somehow adapt the big T bar end....my QAD thumbwheel hits the Drawboard I made now with a 1/2" piece of galv pipe wrapped in electrical tape...Im not sure how I can get around this with this setup, but if theres a will, there's a way!


If you use the rubber "vee" mount like I did, you should be able to use a bandsaw and cut out enough of the side rubber to clear your QAD. The rubber shapes real easy if you use a one inch to inch and a half drum sander in a drill. That is how I shaped mine.
Good luck!


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## WadeRolandJames

bginvestor said:


> Here's my fancy draw board. Soon it will be a shooter after I find a suitable release. Having the EZ style press next to the draw board is awesome for tuning!
> 
> The one feature that I really like is the ruler to match draw length each time for shot repeatability. Enjoy the pics..



As soon as I return from WY and order my EZ Press, I'm rigging it up like this.... Semi portable bow tuning station... Pretty legit!


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## OCHO505

Sub'd! Nice work boys, got the gerbal wheel going! Lol


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## Livn-Lg

O.K., I have started collecting the parts. Won't be long now.......


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## X-file

Marking this one


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## DXT08

Sweet! Subscribed


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## Darth Bow

Man! This is really awesome stuff! Do you have a video of the hooter in action? How do you manage to tune the pin gaps for the distance? You know what I mean? Can you set your pins using the hooter and if so how?


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## Chiro_Archer

This is sweet! Definitely subscribing to this for a later build aftermy move this summer!


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## KG200

My father inlaw is a contractor and was going to throw his old dewalt miter saw stand away. He bought a new one because this one had an extension arm that would not lock down. He gave it to me but the stand was all beat up so I painted it and bought a winch and release for it. Tomorrow I am going to try and get it all set up. I have read through all the posts but still can not decide on how to make the grip. I think the boat bumper looks like a good idea but I cant find one in town. I was also thinking about using a U bolt but not sure how consistent it would be. Any suggestions? 

I was also trying to think of a way to make feet that would allow me to bolt the stand to the concrete. Has anyone found a way to do this?


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## nick060200

KG200 said:


> My father inlaw is a contractor and was going to throw his old dewalt miter saw stand away. He bought a new one because this one had an extension arm that would not lock down. He gave it to me but the stand was all beat up so I painted it and bought a winch and release for it. Tomorrow I am going to try and get it all set up. I have read through all the posts but still can not decide on how to make the grip. I think the boat bumper looks like a good idea but I cant find one in town. I was also thinking about using a U bolt but not sure how consistent it would be. Any suggestions?
> 
> I was also trying to think of a way to make feet that would allow me to bolt the stand to the concrete. Has anyone found a way to do this?


http://www.amazon.com/Seasense-2-In...&qid=1363564912&sr=8-1&keywords=boat+bow+stop

$7 TYD thats where i got mine


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## lc12

nick060200 said:


> http://www.amazon.com/Seasense-2-In...&qid=1363564912&sr=8-1&keywords=boat+bow+stop
> 
> $7 TYD thats where i got mine


Yep, that will work! 
Like I said, you can use a drum sander mounted in a hand drill to better shape the "grip" portion.
You can also make a strap that would attach to the front of the "vees" that will hold the bow into the grip and prevent it from falling out.
I am modifying mine to use the strap as I do not trust the bungee ball straps all that much.

Regarding bolting the feet to the concrete you can attach "L" brackets to each leg and then use TAPCON concrete screws. You pre-drill the concrete slab and then just screw the TAPCONS down.
Instead of screwing mine down I just use two five gallon buckets filled with sand and hang them onto the brackets between the legs. This makes it more than stable enough and allows me to move the stand if I want to.


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## Marooned

subscribed


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## KG200

Thank you Nick060200 and LC12. I am getting close to finishing my shooter. I cant wait to try it out.


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## lc12

KG200 said:


> Thank you Nick060200 and LC12. I am getting close to finishing my shooter. I cant wait to try it out.


Have fun with it!
Now you will have to do like I did, once the "shooter" is finished.
I decided my bag target wasn't big enough so I built a 4 ft. X 4 ft. target and am in the process of stuffing it with old clothes.
I sure did not want to miss with the shooter!!!
Check out the DIY section for "target box".


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## Tunaboy

I have a nice shooter made with the miter stand. It works good but I think the solid mount for the release like the home made red shooter above is a better idea. Just not sure to mimic his release slider on the miter stand shooter that I have. I put wheels on my shooter and think they work good to move the stand around. It is pretty heavy and awkward when set up as a shooter. There are pics of the unit with wheels early on in this post. Ideas to change the release mount system appreciated.


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## lc12

Well, after lots of looking around I think I found the perfect bow "holder" for my Ryo-bow shooter!
I tried a bungee cord and a velcro strap, but both seemed to put side grip on the bow and was causing erroneous shots at times.
And if I loosened up the strap I was afraid the bow would slip out of the "grip".
Then as I was walking through the hardware store I came across these "wire ties".
I have used these in the past for passing my tree stand straps around a tree (another tip for you!) but did not think of using them for my grip until now.
I have attached a couple of pics that may better explain it's use.













The "tie" is wrapped around the bar that the "grip" is attached to. Since the pic was taken I have now wrapped the tie around the bar ONCE and then around itself to lock it in place.
I then go around the front of the "grip", behind the bar, and then do a lock wrap on the limb bar below the grip as shown.
The beauty of this "tie" is that I can form it to the bow grip without putting tension on it and when the bow is shot the tie prevents it from jumping out of the grip. And of course it will fit any bow grip.
I have also modified the grip by shortening one side of the "vee" to make it easier to put the bow into the holder, and I took my bandsaw and removed some of the rubber from INSIDE the grip to open it up a bit more.
Just thought I would pass this idea on to those of you that are still looking.
Good luck!


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## lc12

OK, so here you go. Proof is in the pudding.
15 shots ine ONE HOLE!!!


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## KG200

I like the wire tie idea. LC12 how many yards was that group from?


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## lc12

KG200 said:


> I like the wire tie idea. LC12 how many yards was that group from?


Could only get five yards in the basement for now.
With the weather getting better I am going to go to my 40 yard range and try it at 20 yards with bare shafts.
I have since added to five gallon buckets filled half full of sand and hung from S-hooks under each end for stabilization.
Even at 5 yards you can tell if something is out of wack if even just a slight difference in where the arrow hits.
Heck, I paper tune at only six feet from the paper!
If I get ambitious I believe I can clean out enough space in my basement to get 15 yards!!!

Oh, and the wire tie worked so much better than I even thought it would! I could form the wire to the particular grip on any bow and yet keep it just a tad loose so as to not put any pressure on the grip. The bow tipped only slightly forward upon the shot.


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## 30X's

Bookmark


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## fishuntbike

Finally a warmer weather to play around again inside my garage with my shooting machine

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ptdWt6rgaY0


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## Tunaboy

3 questions: 
How much weight do you hang under the shooter to keep the unit from moving after the shot?
What type of release works best?
What do you use to insure that the draw is identical every shot? No expensive electronics please.


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## lc12

I hang a 5 gal bucket, half full of sand, between each set of legs.

I used an old Cobra release because I could remove and use the head only.

I mark the arrow shaft with white out so as to draw to exact same spot each time.

Hop this helps


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## Monster/helim23

hey thank you beastmaster for the awesome idea on building this machine. I made a YouTube video of my "alpha shooter" I made some changes but still used your basic idea. hope you guys like. it works extremely eek and I've even **** my view at 60 yards out of this with great results. ENJOY and Thanks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfUdaWnhNhk&feature=youtube_gdata_player


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## Monster/helim23

hey thank you beastmaster for the awesome idea on building this machine. I made a YouTube video of my "alpha shooter" I made some changes but still used your basic idea. hope you guys like. it works extremely well and I've even shot my bow at 60 yards out of this with great results. ENJOY and Thanks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfUdaWnhNhk&feature=youtube_gdata_player


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## G-unit

Thats pretty slick. If you get bored one day make a parts list for the adjustment bar you added. Looks awesome!


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## joeylee14

This is very nice and so simple. Thanks for the post.


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## S.Alder

Great design. Marking it till I get the room to make and store one.


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## Rollie83

Save for later build


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## Brad HT

This is awsome...!
I am going to be making on of these, or something similar... But I want to include a 'slider' like piece similar to the Kwik Shooter. Does anyone have the dimensions for that might be helpful? I want to know how long to make it....

this is going to be all out of my head... lol

Does this make sense?
B~


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## Brad HT

If anyone has a Kwik shooter, Id like to know the measurement of the length of it... Just curious if my 48" round stock I have laying around is long enough to make the carriage sliding system...

thanks for anyones help....!
B~


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## BagginBigguns

I'm giving serious consideration to building one of these setups. I'd like to know if it's possible to use this device to sight in a bow out at longer ranges (say, 60+ yards). Is this reliable? If my form is good, can I expect my shots to hit where the machine hits? And conversely, can I interpret inconsistencies between my shooting and the machine's shooting as being a problem with my technique?

I'm just thinking maybe I could use this as a "lie detector" of sorts, to either definitively confirm or denying the "correctness" of my shooting technique. Any thoughts on this concept?


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## redleg62

....marked for later.......


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## upstatehunter17

Marked for later


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## darkclaw

Beastmaster said:


> Heh. I'd have to take makeup and paint my wife green. Won't work. She'd take her bow and turn me red with holes.


Woah that's some ...... Umm how should i say this Stuff


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## Guardian19

Thanks Beastmaster, I started on mine today. I think I'm going with the reverse u-bolt holder. Seems like it would be the most versatile just maybe a bit of a pain to unscrew if you need it go back mad forth to the press for timing issues.


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## College

I made a similar design. The only difference is I used a clamp from a bike mechanics rack thingy to hold the bow.
That way I get the same hold even if I take the bow off and try shooting it myself then put it back to change something.

I bolted it to the end of the arm.

Mine is a dewalt stand so the bike clamp bolts right to the end of the outset arm.

Yours is very very nice and looks great. Probably less expensive too.
You should look for one of those clamps.


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## skeet16

College said:


> I made a similar design. The only difference is I used a clamp from a bike mechanics rack thingy to hold the bow.
> That way I get the same hold even if I take the bow off and try shooting it myself then put it back to change something.
> 
> I bolted it to the end of the arm.
> 
> Mine is a dewalt stand so the bike clamp bolts right to the end of the outset arm.
> 
> Yours is very very nice and looks great. Probably less expensive too.
> You should look for one of those clamps.


Show us a picture of this bike mechanics holdy thingy


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## dogcity302

I built one about three months ago. I plan to up-grade with some of the newer ideas I've seen on this thread. Thanks to Beastmaster for your input of good ideas.


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## Morty

College said:


> I made a similar design. The only difference is I used a clamp from a bike mechanics rack thingy to hold the bow.
> That way I get the same hold even if I take the bow off and try shooting it myself then put it back to change something.
> 
> I bolted it to the end of the arm.
> Mine is a dewalt stand so the bike clamp bolts right to the end of the outset arm.
> Yours is very very nice and looks great. Probably less expensive too.
> You should look for one of those clamps.



Haven't made one yet. Is this type of clamp you used? Looks like it would work really well. Little pricey.


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## Morty




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## Steve Jo

I can't believe I read through this whole thing and no one has yet invented a way to mount this device to a treestand?!

Great thread, Saved and I will be building one of these soon


----------



## yanny

I haven't checked on this thread in a long time. I built one and used a simple u-bolt setup to hold the bow. It is torque free and allowed me to broadhead tune my arrows out to 60 yards. My fixed blades are within an inch of field points at this distance. I took the bow out of the shooter and could almost replicate the results without any adjustments.

I have found a ratchet strap and two cork screw dog leash pegs to be very beneficial in holding the shooter in a fixed position. I pull the legs out as far as they go and screw a peg in the ground in front of the shooter and behind the shooter. I strap it down tight once it is positioned at the target and fire a couple shots. I snug up the ratchet strap and start blazing away. I am amazed at the consistency of the shooter. It is a vital part of my tuning procedure. I use it to check cam timing, cam lean, draw length, draw weight, draw curve, peep height, and I tune each arrow individually at long range. My confidence in my finished setup has never been higher and my shooting has never been better.


----------



## Seode777

I made one and love it, great for someone who has no excess to a welding machine. Just don't have much faith in the tie-down for my bow. I never know if it will stay put to be accurate or not. Any ideals to stabilize the grip any better. Other problem I had was the wench brackets tried to lift off the rails, even after snugging them down. I fixed that by adding a couple handy C-clamps. Does anyone have ideal for the grip for the bow ?????? Thanks


----------



## Mathews4ever

This is exactly what I was looking for. Do you think the whinch could be had locally??


----------



## Godfather3696

My bow has a QAD......

Anybody know if using a u bolt and mounting the bow behing the t bar, if that would be accurate as a grip?

Or if I cut the top of that T bar off and weld on a 3/4 pipe in replace if that would solve the QAD problem? And were as an accurate and good grip?

Or option 3, turn the t bar out front side ways and run a 3/4 bolt through it, and have the bolt hangin out the side mount the bow? Would this also yield as an accurate hold and work around the qad?

I'll post pictures when I'm done, like the way I have my set up with a apple vise and ez press mounted to it as well.


----------



## Ned250

Another huge kudos to beast for the idea! I picked up a Ryobi stand, a boat winch, and a boat bow V (dont know what it's really called). I rigged it up for now to just be a draw board, but I'll be tinkering and modifying until I can get to an acceptable shooter. LOADS of great ideas in here.

:thumbs_up :thumbs_up


----------



## Ned250

Mathews4ever said:


> This is exactly what I was looking for. Do you think the whinch could be had locally??


I found a 900# boat winch (web) at our local boat parts store.


----------



## turkeytom

tagged


----------



## Tunaboy

The idea with the cork screw dog anchors to hold the unit down is a good one. Much better than a 5gal bucket with 30# of sand in each one. Has anyone else tried the big twisty thing to keep the bow in position on the holder? I could use a better system than what I have.


----------



## bowhunterhaus1

Very cool


----------



## Tank29

Nice thread!!!...Lot's of great ideas...Subscribed...I will be building one in the near future for sure!!!!


----------



## Jester1023

#990 subscribed


----------



## War_Material

Awesome i am gonna make one! No harbor freight here but i will find a good winch. Thanks for sharing!


----------



## beegee59

Awesome!!! Beastmaster tagged for future project thanks


----------



## boonecoon

Here is my contribution. Found this Skil miter saw table on clearance at Lowe's today and got to tinkering. I still need to figure out how I am going to go about raising the draw point to be a couple inches higher so it will draw flat. Any suggestions?? Thanks again for the ideas this has definitely become my best archery purchase to date. 







sorry about any pictures being flipped


----------



## Bama_Fan

I'm fairly new to A/T....and hadn't even had a chance to look at this forum..ok..so I hadn't taken time yet...but on my own I decided to build a shooter...I built mine out of wood...it's a prototype but works..and was cheap...I think it was (4) 2x4's...a few lag bolts..a boat trailer roller (that I modified to miss the QAD)..and a hand wench...I was already looking to improve it when I come across this...so I guess we all know what'll be coming next...oh..as for securing the bow to the rubber vee's..go to hobby lobby..(or any other craft store) and look for velcro straps..you can buy a roll or two for like 3 bucks..pre drill a hole in one end of each of the two pieces and you can either rivot them or screw them to the vee and they will hold the bow in place nicely...great job fellas...guess I know what I'll be building next...I'm sure my girl will appreciate the quiet time she'll have to get stuff done now without me in the way..lol


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## SHPoet

This may have already been answered. I didn't read the entire thread...

When you fire the thing how do you control the strap and release recoil? It would seem that the release would head backwards at a high rate of speed and whack anything behind the shooter.


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## Beastmaster

SHPoet said:


> This may have already been answered. I didn't read the entire thread...
> 
> When you fire the thing how do you control the strap and release recoil? It would seem that the release would head backwards at a high rate of speed and whack anything behind the shooter.


It drops straight down to the ground.


----------



## boonecoon

I have a four finger rigged to mine, I just place my left hand under the release as I pull the trigger, and right hand under the top limb pocket to catch the fall alittle. Its not as explosive as you would think.


----------



## jtcoinflip

Hay anyone ever tried to put an electric winch on one of these?


----------



## boonecoon

jtcoinflip said:


> Hay anyone ever tried to put an electric winch on one of these?


Probably safer, in the idea that you don't risk letting the crank handle slip, but I would think it would be hard to be precise, and could risk overdrawing and breaking a limb stop, or worse. But hey that's why its called DIY, you might be on to something


----------



## wpod

I too got the Skil table at Lowes. Already had the winch bolted to a board with waterpipe bow holder.
This is much nicer. Wjen I build my "trailerjack press" it will be attached to this set-up. I may also add wheels on one end.



Thanks for the ideas.
AT Rocks!

Sent from my VS950 4G using Tapatalk


----------



## Bama_Fan

Looks good....


----------



## elkbow69

So my wife was telling me that she wanted me to change the moulding in the house. I have a miter saw but guess I need to go get a Ryobi miter table. What a coincidence haha


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## wpod

My winch was bolted to a board, waterpipe to hold the bow. Never used it as I had no way to hold the assembly.
This set-up is very practical. 
Besides the press, I may add 2 wheels for portability 

Sent from my VS950 4G using Tapatalk


----------



## hbuscg33

Tagged


----------



## wpod

So, to set my bow to draw level (drawboard purposes) I would level the stand, draw the bow (with nocked arrow) and raise the bow or raise the winch cable/strap until arrow level?
Is bow drawing level important?
Thanks

Sent from my VS950 4G using Tapatalk


----------



## Paintman75

tagged


----------



## juspassinthru

Got my Ryobi stand, winch, couple turnbuckles, a rubber v stop(saw this variation on one and works great when using as mech shooter) tonight. This thing will serve as my draw board first and foremost(the commercially built one I had wasnt long enough to accommodate a scale and/or turnbuckle on longer DL bows). Ill get the mech shooter part set up pretty soon as well. Im a certified welder/fabricator so Im sure Ill be making tweaks to the design at some point. Ill post pics when I get it all together. Got a little more than $160 tied up but it will suffice until I can get a Hooter Shooter


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## cgs1967

Tagged, very cool.


----------



## va limbhanger

Just wanted to say thanks to Beastmaster for posting this build. I'm tired of my horizontal draw board and will be doing this build this week! Just a great tuning aid for anyone who does their own work.


----------



## juspassinthru

Got started on mine today. Got the winch mounted. Got the u-bolt conversion done to the winch brackets. Did the reverse bow holder with the u-bolt. Bow is too free to cant with this setup. I may try a tad bit smaller u-bolt. Also going to play with the boat trailer V block. Thinking in the end, ill end up getting the holder machined out of the "nylon" material. And running my set up like that. I really like that idea but figured id try the less expensive styles first


----------



## va limbhanger

I started assembling mine last night and see two problems right off the bat. I shoot tec risers and have some with QAD's on them. The U bolt seems to be an idea and the bow bumper looks interesting also. I will have to see what I can come up with.


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## juspassinthru

Still in infant stage. Got reverse bow holder done. "Served" 550 paracord around tube to prevent scratching risers. Also have my Ram Machine vise set up so I can use it or quickly remove it from the stand. Working out details for better bow holder to make shooter more repeatable. More pics later.


----------



## mtimms

Got mine today and set up. Waiting on my new worm gear wench from harbor freight. And a couple other tweaks and its ready!


----------



## mtimms

Justpassinthru what is that piece those u bolts are holding close to where the bow goes and whats it for?


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## redyak3

Looking good guys!!!


----------



## va limbhanger

*Ryobi Drawing Board*

Just put this together last night and this morning. Right now it's just a drawing board and maybe in the future I will modify it to also be a shooter.


----------



## va limbhanger

I haven't yet put much thought into it yet, but does anyone have a good idea for installing a measuring tape to show D/L's? It was easy on my draw board using a 2x8 for a base, but on this setup there's no obvious flat area to put one on.


----------



## mtimms

Wondering the same thing ^^^^


----------



## wpod

I have an arrow marked for measuring.


----------



## juspassinthru

mtimms said:


> Justpassinthru what is that piece those u bolts are holding close to where the bow goes and whats it for?


The 2 ubolts are holding a pice of the back tube that i removed and relocated to hold the guide for my winch strap. The single one in the very middle holds my vise


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## mtimms

Sweet sounds good.


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## va limbhanger

wpod said:


> I have an arrow marked for measuring.


That's about all i could think of also.


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## Tunaboy

One thing to consider with the worm drive winch. It works fine but is really slow. A standard light duty boat winch with an inline turnbuckle for fine adjustment is 3 times faster. The lowest capacity one is fine and you can find them pretty cheap.


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## wpod

Here's my (almost) finished project. Combines the drawboard/shooter, press (almost done), and vise.


----------



## kramster

Tagged - great idea


----------



## va limbhanger

Tunaboy said:


> One thing to consider with the worm drive winch. It works fine but is really slow. A standard light duty boat winch with an inline turnbuckle for fine adjustment is 3 times faster. The lowest capacity one is fine and you can find them pretty cheap.


I now have both (worm gear winch/regular boat winch) and I use to think the worm gear would be my 1st choice because you don't need a turnbuckle to fine tune the length because it can stop where ever you want and you don't have to worry about pressure being on the winch as you're backing it down. It can be done with one finger. Yes, it is slow as all get out, however you could set it up so you could use a battery drill to operate it to speed things up.
Since I've built the Ryobi drawing machine using the regular winch with a turnbuckle I would say it's far better/quicker, and just as precise as the worm gear winch.


----------



## jeffls417

I have one of these for sale. Located in Springfield, mo. Pick up only.


----------



## Backstop

wpod said:


> Here's my (almost) finished project. Combines the drawboard/shooter, press (almost done), and vise.


Now that's an awesome piece of machinery and engineering. . I like the efficiency of the all in one !!!


----------



## browning1990

Tagged


----------



## browning1990

Tagged


----------



## Packer58

Tagged


----------



## K2man

Holy crap! I started reading this thread - - I'm going to build one - just stopped at page 10 for the night - 42 pages!!!! 

tagged for tomorrow's reading - GREAT DESIGN BEASTMASTER!!! Excellent mods from everyone too!


----------



## cjjeepman

Just a FYI ,Lowes has a discontinued ,version of the ryobi ,I just picked one up for 59.00 .that makes my shooter about 80.00 . It's very well built and tons of adjustments .and cheap .


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## cjjeepman

Well so much for my 80.00 shooter ,after a trip last night to the ER.and 6 stitches ,it might a bit more ,but it was worth every penny still .and I got a good script .


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## cjjeepman

Told you it was a good script ,should of said .It might be a bit more .lalalalalalalalalal


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## Tunaboy

Hey tuna boy here and thanks for kudos on the standard winch. The wheels that I added work good too. Fun project


----------



## duckn

Book marked


----------



## Stab 'em

va limbhanger said:


> I now have both (worm gear winch/regular boat winch) and I use to think the worm gear would be my 1st choice because you don't need a turnbuckle to fine tune the length because it can stop where ever you want and you don't have to worry about pressure being on the winch as you're backing it down. It can be done with one finger. Yes, it is slow as all get out, however you could set it up so you could use a battery drill to operate it to speed things up.
> Since I've built the Ryobi drawing machine using the regular winch with a turnbuckle I would say it's far better/quicker, and just as precise as the worm gear winch.


To "speed things up" all you need to do is wrap the drip of the winch drum with something that increases it's diameter. Then wrap the cable or strap around that. I super-glued long strips of white plastic wall laminate around my worm gear winch until it was almost all the way out to the gear. It cut my winding time in half.


----------



## MJForce

Stab 'em said:


> To "speed things up" all you need to do is wrap the drip of the winch drum with something that increases it's diameter. Then wrap the cable or strap around that. I super-glued long strips of white plastic wall laminate around my worm gear winch until it was almost all the way out to the gear. It cut my winding time in half.


The drum diameter of the worm drive I use is approx. 1-5/8". What would be a decent size if I use a cable for drawing. 
3" diameter?

Or I wonder if changing to a 3" wide strap could help. (Light duty of coarse).


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## cjjeepman

Couldn't stand seeing it sit there un finished ,used my good hand and finished it today ,shot my browning wasp ,and my RPM ,wow how cool ,same hole ,time after time .should of built one long ago .thanks to everyone who posted ideas ,has anyone tried to go to your stab screw hole to hold the bow in place on the stand ,would it hurt anything ,


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## K2man

Scored today! Went to Home Depot to buy a Ryobi table. Just happened to meet the store manager at the front door. Asked where the tables were. He looked them up on the computer - showed that they had 3 in the store. Went to where they were suppose to be - the only one there was the display model. He sold it to me for $60! Woo-Hoo! Scored! Of course, I ended up spending $140 while I was there....


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## Gurwery

Draw Board Dream Machine!

Thanks to you All!


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## Beastmaster

I'm impressed that this thread continues on! Great ideas for modifications from everyone!


----------



## DaneHunter

Anyone figure out how to get this up a tree and attach it to a deer stand yet?


----------



## frog gigger

Wow, you guys have given me lots of options. I had all intentions of getting the Kwik Shooter till I saw this. Too bad I don't have Home Depot. Guess I'm going with the Kobalt from Lowe's. Cost a little more than Ryobi, but the wheels will make it easier about getting to my stand.:mg:


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## bginvestor

Here's my work station... 

I mounted the EZ type press , works great.


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## btafoya13

Great idea, will be looking forward to making a drawboard now.


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## frog gigger

The build has begun. I'm really liking the wheels on this one. Still not determined what the grip will be. Got the rod holder but not satisfied at all with that. I looked at boat bumpers, but everything looked huge in comparison to some of these pics. Don't think I'll find a hockey puck in south KY.


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## Tunaboy

Hockey puck and wheel guy here. Ya the wheels help a lot and look online for hockey pucks. Pretty cheap, I would buy 5, they make great stabilizer weights too. Handy for all kinds of applications. P S be careful cutting pucks on a table saw. They can get grabby. Build a wooden fixture to hold a puck if you need to do something fancy. I have cut and routed them without too much problem. The helical screws that you use to stake out a dog work good to anchor your shooter to the ground and stop the unit from jumping around at the shot. Same arrow in the same hole and all that.


----------



## AzizaVFR

Beastmaster said:


> I'm impressed that this thread continues on! Great ideas for modifications from everyone!


The reason it continues is due to the overall cost of the tools, plus the ease at which it can be created. I took your idea, changed the mounting board for the winch. My very first test of the removable mounts supplied with the stand created a very interesting event. I was pulling my PSE Premonition, watching the cam timing, then FLING! It shot the winch, and mounts into the driveway. Not exactly a dry-fire since the bow hurled the winch about eight feet. 

Like others, I added the bow press I built to the stand. The only thing missing at this point for a complete tuning station is the PSE Bow Tuning Fixture. It will mount on the rails, next to the extension used to hold the bow. It is a toss-up between buying it, and just machining the fixture.

Stand with the bow at rest.









Bow under tension









Press close-up


----------



## DaneHunter

If anyone has a Rural King by them, they have a decent off brand mitre saw table on sale for $90.


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## frog gigger

Still looking for that ''best'' grip idea that will accept the qad. This thread is so old, some pics are no longer available. 
I want the quick in and out setup with no bolting.


----------



## wpod

frog gigger said:


> Still looking for that ''best'' grip idea that will accept the qad. This thread is so old, some pics are no longer available.
> I want the quick in and out setup with no bolting.


I have the Fuse version of the quad. I'll post a pic of how I dealt with it (really simple).
Finally got the fingers of the press done. Got a new string for the PSE so this will be it's debut.
Get home Tue.


----------



## Joe2698

Tag


----------



## MOBIGBUCKS

tagged


----------



## wpod

Well, I didn't get out to the garage to get a pic of the shooter and the Quad rest.
I use pipe insulation to pad the arm the riser rests against. I found the thumb-lever hit the padding. I cut out a square of the padding to where the lever moves freely as the bow is drawn.
I'm thinking of making a mold of my hand (ala Mythbusters) to hold the bow. Can't hurt to try.


----------



## idahobow84

Tagged


----------



## frog gigger

I finally went this route.


----------



## Monster/helim23

I am now using a cut in half and wallowed out hockey puck and u bolt to hold my bow in my shooter. No issues with a qad or my limb driver having any contact. .I will post a pic tomorrow for all to see.


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## Tunaboy

I too went the hockey puck route. There is a pic somewhere in this huge post. The only caution I
Would add is if you are cutting the puck with something like a hack or band saw no problem. I used a table saw for some cuts. The rubber puck can get grabby and has the potential to get dangerous. I made simple wooden jigs to hold the puck for table saw work.


----------



## Elvis_Is_Dead

Tunaboy said:


> I too went the hockey puck route. There is a pic somewhere in this huge post. The only caution I
> Would add is if you are cutting the puck with something like a hack or band saw no problem. I used a table saw for some cuts. The rubber puck can get grabby and has the potential to get dangerous. I made simple wooden jigs to hold the puck for table saw work.


Will a spindle sander work on the puck? For shaping the bow rest indentation?


----------



## C.D.T

Now that is just plain awesome work there man


----------



## Tunaboy

The hockey pucks are pretty hard a sander may work with a coarse grit paper. I drilled the grip area on my puck on an angle with a Forster drill and a wooden fixture. I only own Hoyt and the puck works fine with all of them.


----------



## Outsider

Has anyone used the Craftsman stand???? Craftsman Universal Miter Saw Stand


----------



## Jarfly

This is sweet! Great work I think ryobi sales are gonna be going up lol


----------



## K2man

I looked at the link to the Ceaftsman saw stand - it looks great - it has something that looks even better than the Ryobi - the slide out extension arm is double tube! That is an even sturdier design. If the legs are strong - I didn't look to see what diameter tubing it uses. If it has the same diameter tubes, I'd prefer it over the Ryobi. Ether way, I'm sure it would work, and it's on sale now for $70.


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## Outsider

I visit harbor freight after work. I bought the trailer winch and also was looking on one of the saw stands they have for sale. Here is the link: Mobile Folding Power Tool Stand. But decided to go with Ryobi since they used a round bars for sliding.


----------



## Outsider

Guys I have a quick question. I have a Hoyt bow which has an arc on the back of it. And because of that I cannot mount it on the "T" support arm of the saw like most of you did. I want to build my own "T" support which will have smaller tube on the top. So I need your help. I'm at work right now and cannot measure that so if anybody will be able to let me know what is the square tube size that is used on this T support? I would really appreciate it
Thanks :wink::beer:


----------



## Outsider

Anybody here??? I have one more question. How do you back out the bow? No matter how I install the winch there are always the clamp on the way to fully rotate the winch handle. When I pull the bow all the way there is no way to back it out without shooting it


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## Elvis_Is_Dead

Can you give us a pic? I don't have that problem with mine.


----------



## Outsider

I solved it. Before I used the one with blue ratchet handle. Just used it incorrectly :embara: . I went to Harbor Freight and exchange it for the one like yours. Much easier to use. Here are some photos of my shooting/draw board and bow press. I made the press like per other thread on this DIY section My $20 Bow Press. It is not done yet. I have to make everything stable. But I already tried the press and draw board and so far the bow was tuned like crap. I just realize that when I used the draw board.
Anyway here are the photos:
View attachment 1991887

View attachment 1991888

View attachment 1991889

View attachment 1991890

View attachment 1991891


----------



## DDPJ

I saw this a few days ago and went down to Home Depot and picked up a miter stand. It works, although I had to clamp down the winch support arms as they were twisting loose when drawing back the string. To answer your question, I simply looked through the peep and sight to make sure the arrow would hit the target. A plane piece of paper will show your first shot. The idea is to check the arrows to one another, not sight your bow.


----------



## Shortaxle

Tagged


----------



## Tonto79

subscribed


----------



## Outsider

I have a question. Is your bow tilting to the side when at full draw in the shooter? If Yes how do you eliminate that?


----------



## Elvis_Is_Dead

Pysiek said:


> I have a question. Is your bow tilting to the side when at full draw in the shooter? If Yes how do you eliminate that?


It's your design of the shooter's mechanical grip, combined with the specific bow's grip. I designed mine for a BT D350, but when i started working on other people's bows i ran into that. 

What people should understand is that the mech shooter will not shoot like a person does. I dont care how you designed it, if using for bareshaft tuning, it will get it close, but you really need to get it off the shooter at that point and continue bareshaft tuning with your own shooting.

So with this reasoning in mind, i really dont think it matters if it leans a little. However i have used foam and some masking tape to build up the rest support un the right side (for a RH bow) to help it stay up straight. I have also found that adding that soft cushioning combo of foam and tape, i can actually adjust the shooter's grip to more closely match my own grip.


----------



## Outsider

Okay. I will work on the "grip" and hopefully get it to work.
Thanks


----------



## Elvis_Is_Dead

Pysiek said:


> Okay. I will work on the "grip" and hopefully get it to work.
> Thanks


I have not ever been able to get my shooter to shoot consistently enough for arrow tuning. Part of reason is because some bows have more shock and actually moves the shooter even though weighted down with water buckets and a weight on top. Another reason is because of the long rope i use with the release on end of it, even though it goes through an eyelet guide.

I think if i was to build one again, i would try to design a slide guide similar to the hooter shooters.

So the only thing i use the shooter for is bows that I cant shoot by myself (LH or DW to high for me to pull back). And it's only for bareshaft tuning or draw board.


----------



## Elvis_Is_Dead

I've come to this conclusion after extensive experimentation.


----------



## Outsider

Elvis_Is_Dead said:


> I think if i was to build one again, i would try to design a slide guide similar to the hooter shooters.


This would not be easy since the clamp will spin if mounted on one pipe only. Will have to add another pipe/tube or come up with something else. Like maybe design a clamp that will slide on both the tubes and put the winch in the center of the table so it will not bent . 
I might also build a similar shooter as kwik-shooter made out of 80/20 materials


----------



## Elvis_Is_Dead

Pysiek said:


> This would not be easy since the clamp will spin if mounted on one pipe only. Will have to add another pipe/tube or come up with something else. Like maybe design a clamp that will slide on both the tubes and put the winch in the center of the table so it will not bent .
> I might also build a similar shooter as kwik-shooter made out of 80/20 materials


Somewhere in my files I have a design a guy sent me, that he got a welder, and built a frame and the release pulls back on a slide. His results were pretty impressive, a very consistent shooter. The problem is I don't have a tack welder, which isn't a huge problem in itself, but the real problem is I have nowhere to put it. My Ryobi Shooter is already sitting on the back deck, and the wife puts up with it gracefully. Lately though I am getting more and more people bringing their bows to me, and want me to fix them, or new string cable, tune their bows, etc etc.

I'm the only guy that does it for 100 miles in my neck of the woods. So the more business I get, the more I can justify it to her.

What I really need is a new piece of property!


----------



## Outsider

Somewhere I saw a guy made his shooter out of piping parts. But I think I can make a clamp and it should work great


----------



## Elvis_Is_Dead

Pysiek said:


> This would not be easy since the clamp will spin if mounted on one pipe only. Will have to add another pipe/tube or come up with something else. Like maybe design a clamp that will slide on both the tubes and put the winch in the center of the table so it will not bent .
> I might also build a similar shooter as kwik-shooter made out of 80/20 materials


2 pipes as slide guides, the release is between the 2, and slides on 2 pipes, and the cable pulls it back from between the 2.
You'd probably have to keep the pipes graphited well to reduce friction.

Heck it shouldn't be too hard to mount something like that on the Ryobi.


----------



## Outsider

Elvis_Is_Dead said:


> Heck it shouldn't be too hard to mount something like that on the Ryobi.


I don't think so. We will see :wink:


----------



## Stab 'em

Pysiek said:


> Somewhere I saw a guy made his shooter out of piping parts. But I think I can make a clamp and it should work great


Here is a simple, effective shooter I built from aluminum tubing. After I cut it to the lengths for the backbone & legs I took it to a welder to do his thing for $20.00. The key there is to have everything ready to be welded without them having to so anything but tack and weld beads.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1162131


----------



## Outsider

Nice job. But I have to admit the pictures are kind of small :sad:


----------



## flyboy9994

Wow... Unbelievable. Can't believe this thread is still alive over 3 years later!

I found this thread when it first started and of course built my own. I only used mine for a draw board and it worked awesome for cam timing etc. but now I want to make it a shooter. I was having problems with the grip area and the QAD rest so I pretty much gave up so it's been sitting for a couple of years gathering dust.

Now I have some great ideas thanks to the newer posts. Time to get it out and dust it off!


----------



## S.Alder

Going to build one of these today.


----------



## bowabuk

Tagged


----------



## mibowhunter2094

...


----------



## Dhninja

Awesome goin to Home Depot right now


----------



## thwackaddict

Elvis_Is_Dead said:


> I have not ever been able to get my shooter to shoot consistently enough for arrow tuning. Part of reason is because some bows have more shock and actually moves the shooter even though weighted down with water buckets and a weight on top. Another reason is because of the long rope i use with the release on end of it, even though it goes through an eyelet guide.
> 
> I think if i was to build one again, i would try to design a slide guide similar to the hooter shooters.
> 
> So the only thing i use the shooter for is bows that I cant shoot by myself (LH or DW to high for me to pull back). And it's only for bareshaft tuning or draw board.


http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1573474&highlight=Hutch+shooter

Here is an accurate one.


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## Dhninja

Thanks


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## Tony7781

tagged for later


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## imbucky26

Ttt




lc12 said:


> i am still refining my ryo-bow shooter, but decided i should post some side notes that may be of help to those that take on this project.
> 
> 1.) the tubes are just slightly over 1 3/4" in diameter so if you use u-bolts, buy the 2" wide x 5/16" diameter ones. And get them in 4" lengths. These will work for just about any modification that you make to the stand.
> 
> 2.) use four of the above mentioned u-bolts to secure the "slide arms" that you bolt your winch to. This will keep it from lifting, or coming loose, when pulling a higher poundage bow, and is just good insurance. You only need two per arm and can offset them for better clearance. I ran the u=bolts from under the tubes, along the sides fo the slider arm and then added the straps that come with the u-bolts across the tops of the slider arms. It ain't coming loose!!!
> 
> 3.) i bought the winch as shown on the op's original posting that has the ratchet strap. I think i would have preferred the worm gear winch, both of which are available at harbor freight, as i used the worm gear winch on my drawboard. But i am giving the ratchet winch a try.
> A minor mod to the winch was in adding another nut to the winch handle thereby "double nutting" the handle stem. The "wrench" was slid onto the winch first and then the two nuts. By the way, the nuts are metric, as almost all things are that are bought at harbor frieght.
> I may be mistaken, but i think the nut is a 12mm nut, and it takes a 19mm deep well socket to slip over these double nuts. I used the crank handle from the worm gear winch and added the deep well socket to it, and i also purchased another 19mm deep well socket that i put a drill adapter on. I can use both of these on my drawboard and my ryo-bow shooter! It speeds up the process in drawing the bow on either machine.
> 
> 4.) still on the winch mod. Regarding the strap and hook. The hook is way too heavy for the application and i wanted to get rid of it. It is to hard to "open" in any manner, and is closed too tight to slip the strap out of. I did not want to waste the hook so i clamped it into a vise and hacksawed 1/4" off where the strap was attached.
> I then removed the strap and threw the hook into my "use for something else" box.
> I then attached a "quick link" to the end loop of the strap. I will use this to add a "safety snap hook" and a turnbuckle for my release.
> 
> 5.) regarding the release. I had an older cobra release that has a single bolt that attaches the head of the release to the strap with a nylock nut. I removed the nut and the release head from the strap (yes, the strap went into my "use for something else box" too! Lol) and you will see that there is a "nut" at the head of the release.
> The bolt for the release goes through this nut with a flanged head so that the release head will swivel.
> Remove the nut and the bolt and toss the bolt. You won't need it.
> I then took a piece of the heavy d-loop cord and ran it through the "eye" of a small turnbuckle and then passed both ends of the cord through the nut that held the bolt for the release.
> I used string wax on the cord and made an overhand knot and pulled it as tight as i could! With a bit of persuasion i was able to draw the nut down inside of the nut and then put the nut back onto the release head. Makes for a very nice "shooter release"!
> 
> 6.) for those of you that want to use the "spare" tubing to make more modifications to your saw, i discovered how to remove the whole bar without tearing the stand apart. If you look underneath the stand, each tube has a hole and a dimple in it, near the ends of the stand. There is a screw in the bar that will come to a stop at the dimple, preventing the bar from sliding out of the stand. Remove the screw and remove the tube. There you go! Msystery solved!!!
> 
> 7.) i left the spare bar in my ryo-bow shooter as i am looking at adding a bow vise to it in the future and i am sure there are other ideas that can make this bar useful, but i did cut off a 12" piece for the "roller stand" modification that i did.
> I took two u-bolts and layed them on top of the tubes of the stand, near the center where the "brace divider bar" is located. I attached the 12" piece of tube under the tubes. I also drilled four holes, 11/64" in diameter, into the bar so that the u-bolts could be attached with washers and nuts. This way you can slide the square bar up and down the tube for more adjustments if you want, and i did not really want to have four u-bolts hanging the bar, but a person could if they did not want to drill the tube.
> I removed the "roller t-bar" from the spare end and attached it to this 12" bar so that i can make adjustments to my release height. When attaching the 12" bar be sure to leave at least one inch sticking out on the side away from the "roller t-bar" so that there is room for the drilled hole or u-bolts.
> 
> 7.) because i cut the square tube, and i am picky about appearances, i bought some 1 1/4" end tube caps to cover the ends of the cut tube. It gives the tube a finished appearance and matches the rest of the stand. The inside of the tube measures one inch, but don't buy the one inch end caps! You will be going back for the 1 1/4" ones. Trust me! I guess the measurement for the caps are for the outside portion. These caps can be found in the specialty hardware section of any good hardware store.
> 
> 8.) while at harbor freight i bought several of the magnetic trays and put one on my ryo-bow shooter to hold any miscellaneous parts. Just kind of handy to have.
> I put some on my string jig and bow press too!
> 
> 9.) for the bow grip i used a rubber "vee" that is used as a boat's bow bumper on a boat trailer. I picked mine up at bass pro shop for around $9.00 and used a drum sander on a drill to shape the soft rubber to better conform to a bow's grip. I currently have the "ball bungees" as a means to hold the bow against the grip, but i am not completely happy with this. This is the one part of the whole machine that a person really wants to have right. The grip i mean!
> Since the bow was tilting so far forward upon the shot i drilled several 5/16" holes into the square bar of the "roller t-bar" that the grip is attached to. I slid an 8" piece of 5/16" all thread through the hole and put a wing nut on one end, and a piece of rubber hose on the other. This acts as a bumper for the bottom limb of the bow and keeps the bow from leaning to far forward. This is still an "in progress" project and will probably be modified several times before i am happy with it.
> 
> 10.) i will be hanging buckets from either end of the stand and will fill them with either sand or used tire weights to add "stabilizing" weight to the machine. You really want this machine weighted down for the very best accuracy.
> 
> Now all i have to do is decide as to whether or not i want to add some kind of laser sight to the machine for a "sighting" point. I don't know if it is really necessary, but can see where it would be handy to have.
> You cannot beat the price for this project as i have less than $150.00 into it. Of course i already had the release but i am sure most of you have an old release laying around that you can use. Don't you? Lol
> 
> i am attaching some pics that may better explain the written text above.
> View attachment 1614793
> View attachment 1614795
> View attachment 1614797
> View attachment 1614799


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## imbucky26

Ttt




yanny said:


> materials list:
> 1 ryobi stand
> 11 u-bolts 2" wide by 1/4 diamter
> 1 square 2" u-bolt 1/4 diameter
> 8" marine 5/16 fuel line
> 1 winch with strap
> 1 turn buckle
> 1 cobra release
> 2 cotter pins (used as a safety if the set screw knobs fail on the arm that holds the bow out from the stand)
> 1 large clamp
> wd 40
> fuzzy stuff
> 2 quick links
> 
> tools:
> Corless drill
> hack saw
> 
> optional lazer aiming device:
> Prong rest
> lazer pointer
> tie wrap
> 
> bow holder: 2" u-bolt, fuel line, wd 40 to make the fuel line slide on u-bolt, fuzzy stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shot at 2012-03-28
> 
> release end strap support: 2" square u-bolt to hold strap, 1 t bar from ryobi stand, arm is made from ryobi extension arm that isn't used, u-bolts to hold it down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shot at 2012-03-28
> 
> vertical bow alignment: Clamp and piece of fuel line hose to keep bubble level on site
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shot at 2012-03-28
> 
> cobra release: Doubles as a turn buckle to fine tune draw length
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shot at 2012-03-28
> 
> draw board hook: Turn buckle instead of release for drawboard use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shot at 2012-03-28
> 
> optional lazer for aiming: Prong rest and military grade green lazer pointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shot at 2012-03-28
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shot at 2012-03-28
> 
> i've shot 3 arrows from the machine at less than 5 yards in the basement. The lazer pointer seems to be repeatable and the arrow hit the same hole all 3 times and almost passed through my bag target. Can't wait to get it outside.


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## Genet511

bump


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## Tunaboy

This is a huge post so you may have seen this suggestion before. I found that using 2 of the corkscrew type dog anchors under the shooter with 2 rachet straps eliminates the recoil jump when shooting the bow. Screw in the anchors,run the straps from the anchors to a spot under each set of legs and apply about 30-50# pressure to each. A big help to repeatability outside. Inside 2 plastic buckets with weights hung under legs.


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## north slope

Tagged


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## SD BowHunter

tagged


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## OHIOARCHER36

Just taggin , thanks !


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## marshall1

i just ordered the ryobi stand on homedepot for $64 and change delivered to the house, it said promo on the description.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-40...ERCH=RV-_-rv_homepage_rr-_-NA-_-205216315-_-N


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## Elvis_Is_Dead

marshall1 said:


> i just ordered the ryobi stand on homedepot for $64 and change delivered to the house, it said promo on the description.
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-40...ERCH=RV-_-rv_homepage_rr-_-NA-_-205216315-_-N


WOW! That's a GREAT DEAL. Thanks for posting it!


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## Bowfinger63

cruss said:


> Nice! Where can I get a Green Alien Slave Girl?


That's what I was thinking too!
Then I could just have her draw the bow, while I take measurements, & then I could go back to checking out the bow. :wink:


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## Bowfinger63

marshall1 said:


> i just ordered the ryobi stand on homedepot for $64 and change delivered to the house, it said promo on the description.
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-40...ERCH=RV-_-rv_homepage_rr-_-NA-_-205216315-_-N


WOW is right!!!Thanks for the heads up Marsall1 :thumbs_up:teeth:
For only $ 60 and a coffee? looked online and looked,had only 5 left at store (1 mile away) :tongue:
here's the link http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-400-lb-Miter-Saw-Stand-Promo-RMS10G/205216315

with a little bit of ingenuity, looks like I'll be able to get my Ez-green mounted, AND still have the draw board/shooting machine on at the same time.
made a quick mock up,and looks good to go. I want to get the draw board on the (right?)side.( bow>>>>>>>>>>>>>Winch )
right handed bow=easier to load an arrow.
I'll post a pic later on. 

AND thanks to Beastmaster for posting the thread (vote for sticky)


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## bedontadam

Tag


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## Bowfinger63

*Got it together...sorta of*

went to Harbor freight and got the Winch,they were out of the 800# crank winch, ( got the 1200# worm gear one, it's a beast, but able to get precise draw).
mounted everything, and am able to use the press and the draw board without having to move anything. I'll tweak the bow holder better this weekend.
It's nice having both the press and draw board close, can make adjustments quickly, Thanks Marshall1 for giving us the idea. :thumbs_up


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## WJK5

thank you great thread


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## trophy_seeker

Great info.


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## Insanitymsb

Tagged


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## cf7go

Just an FYI the winch is 25% right now.....


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## Tino B

Just found this thread and now have a new project for the holidays.


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## Wesley

*Draw board*

Built this one over the weekend used the ryobi stand Home Depot has them for $59.00 right now I used a kolphin utv bow holder gun mount for the bow hand worked great used a electric winch with a turn buckle for fine tuning it works great the electric winch is overkill used a hand winch first from harbor freight and the ratchet broke on it the first two times I used it so I went this route the winch was on sale and the stand was on sale I have about $180 in it


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## rattlinman

tagged for my build this weekend!


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## rattlinman

tagged for my build this weekend!


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## bseltzer

When Wesley mentioned the sale, I beat feet to out local HD and was lucky enough to snag one the last two of the miter saw stands they had. I just got my winch mounted on it I was in a hurry, so I just bolted it directly to the saw rails. That limits the orientation of the winch in relation to the end brackets that are used to support the bow. So when I have a bit more time, I'm going to do like Bowfinger and make a wooden platform to attach to the to the rails and mount the winch to that.

This was a great find. Many, many thanks!!


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## bwhntr7973

tagged


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## Creefer17

Marked


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## phantom1

*Great set up!*



Wesley said:


> Built this one over the weekend used the ryobi stand Home Depot has them for $59.00 right now I used a kolphin utv bow holder gun mount for the bow hand worked great used a electric winch with a turn buckle for fine tuning it works great the electric winch is overkill used a hand winch first from harbor freight and the ratchet broke on it the first two times I used it so I went this route the winch was on sale and the stand was on sale I have about $180 in it


I like the electric winch overkill! When you are old, sick, or disabled you can still sight in and tune your bow, then when you feel better, go hunt or shoot targets. Thanks for sharing!


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## porty425

Home Depot currently has the stand on sale for $49

http://www.homedepot.com/b/N-5yc1v/Ntk-Extended/Ntt-ryobi+miter+saw+stand?NCNI-5&browsestoreoption=1


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## Appalachia

Big dumb question : whats the purpose of using a draw board ?? I'm guessing the same purpose as a gun vise ?? fine tuning for accuracy ??


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## qellis123

tagged


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## cjjeepman

I have a total of 80.00 in mine ,works killer and shoots same hole every shot .even works great paper tuning too .no human error while paper tuning .


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## RobColella

Looks like Home Depot has 3 models of the Ryobi stand. The original post has one with black mounts which is @$99 and now I'm seeing ones here with the lime green mounts @$50. Besides the price, what is the difference in the two. I'm interested in building my own, but definitely want sturdy.


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## Short Draw

Tagged.


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## porty425

Has anyone encountered the problem of the rails coming off, I put my elite on there and have the winch mounted to the rails and it wants to pull the rails off as I crank it back


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## bigblock534

porty425 said:


> Has anyone encountered the problem of the rails coming off, I put my elite on there and have the winch mounted to the rails and it wants to pull the rails off as I crank it back


Yes go to page #1096 and check his post out.They used u bolts to tighten it down so it wouldn't move while cranking the bow back..


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## SW1WoodDE

Has anyone used this for a 70lb draw weight or higher? i did see some post a 70lb 101st, but was it set ar 70lbs?


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## michaelgentry87

Couple questions,
set most everything up , steel turnbuck rated for 350 lbs original strap on winch (lowes, 1500lbs) and old fletcher release.

how do I A) keep level side to side jw , it wants to flop
and b) what seems to be the best grip found, I was gonna do u bolt and pipe insulation 
and I have yet to do the u bolt mod yet


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## yanny

SW1WoodDE said:


> Has anyone used this for a 70lb draw weight or higher? i did see some post a 70lb 101st, but was it set ar 70lbs?


I have had bows up to 74 lbs draw weight in my drawboard/shooting machine with Omen Cams. If it can take that, it should be good for just about anything. I do not rely on the knobs 100% to hold the front arm in position. I drilled the front arm and use a heavy cotter pin as a safety in case the know can't hold the tension. This would prevent the bow from slamming back towards the winch.


----------



## yanny

michaelgentry87 said:


> Couple questions,
> set most everything up , steel turnbuck rated for 350 lbs original strap on winch (lowes, 1500lbs) and old fletcher release.
> 
> how do I A) keep level side to side jw , it wants to flop
> and b) what seems to be the best grip found, I was gonna do u bolt and pipe insulation
> and I have yet to do the u bolt mod yet


I did the u bolt but instead of pipe insulation I used rubber hose (marine fuel line) which I covered with the bow silencing fuzzy stuff or what every you want to call it. I spray a little WD40 from time to time inside the hose so it can slide freely on the u bolt which should eliminate torque. The bow grip fits nice and always seems to find the same spot when under tension.

I also use a piece of rubber hose and a clamp on the vertical bar on the front of the drawboard/shooting machine. I simply watch the bubble on the site and use the hose and clamp resting against the riser or limb to keep it level. When the bow goes off the rubber hose doesn't prevent the bow from moving freely. You usually set it once and forget about it for a particular bow.


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## michaelgentry87

Can u send a pic of the hose and clamp


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## yanny

I don't have a picture of it but will post one for you when I get a chance. 

Essentially I drilled two holes horizontally in the front tube for the u-bolt, u facing the winch. I made sure the center of the u was in line with the center of the winch so the bow would be drawn straight back. Keep the winch and u bolt as close to the frame of the stand to eliminate flex.

It is very important to have the nuts holding the u bolt in place threaded on to the u bolt the same amount. If you don't it will have a negative affect on the bow the same way a poor grip would. I count the threads exposed after the nuts are in place and make sure they are equal. This keeps the u bolt aligned and not cocked off to one side. If you don't do this you can trick yourself into thinking you have cam lean when you don't and you will have a hard time getting consistent shots if you are using it to shoot arrows.


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## michaelgentry87

Couldn't wait and no one was home so I put y fr bow in lol my rest was hitting and I haven't done the u bolt holder
Cams are out about 1/8 in 
But I have a wierd question 
When I crank and I draw back the tubing around the draw stop flattens when she draws it doesn't it just touches ....hmmmmm


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## Stbmldgrvs

I see home depot has a little lighter version (rated to 300 lbs) of the Ryobi stand for regularly $59. Looks to be about the same. Weight is the same also.


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## michaelgentry87

I bought a kobalt from lowes idk what is rated for


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## joebrenner007

Stbmldgrvs said:


> I see home depot has a little lighter version (rated to 300 lbs) of the Ryobi stand for regularly $59. Looks to be about the same. Weight is the same also.


yes I bought it and set it up last night and it works just fine!!! and it was actually only 49.00


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## joebrenner007

Hand grip for shooter... I used a mountable bow holder like a last chance archery one you mount to your stand. I took it apart and drilled out a hole through the T arm in line with my winch and since its not threaded I pressure fit it the taped the heck outta it and titled it slight to fit the form of a compound bow to hold it level. so far it works great and holds the bow very well even after the shot, no bugees needed. will post up pics when I can


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## Jimmitch

subcribed


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## JDS2500

I am going to start to build mine this weekend and was wondering if anybody has used a rope pulley system (see link) for the drawing of the bow. I will be just making the draw board for the moment, as I live in a an apartment and do not have the space for a shooter. I see that the Bow-a-constrictor and 92safari's inline press draw board attachment use the a rope pulley system on there draw boards for there press. I have seen some other draw boards that use a similar system.

http://www.amazon.com/Hunters-Speci...sr=1-1&keywords=hunter+specialties+game+hoist


----------



## Unk Bond

JDS2500 said:


> I am going to start to build mine this weekend and was wondering if anybody has used a rope pulley system (see link) for the drawing of the bow. I will be just making the draw board for the moment, as I live in a an apartment and do not have the space for a shooter. I see that the Bow-a-constrictor and 92safari's inline press draw board attachment use the a rope pulley system on there draw boards for there press. I have seen some other draw boards that use a similar system.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Hunters-Speci...sr=1-1&keywords=hunter+specialties+game+hoist


====================

Hello
I know it will work just find.
Several years back I saw one in a shop in Kentucky

They had a vertical 2x6 board stand on end. Fsten to the wall.
Guess one could also lay flat.

Any way they had a round steel peg near the bottom. .With a rubber hose over the steel peg.
They placed the bow grip under the peg post. Bow now being in a horizontal position.
They hooked the block and tackle hook to the D loop. Pulled on the block and tackle.
End of story[ Later


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## JDS2500

I thought that it would, but new to the draw board and shooting machines. When you timed the cam before you had your buddy watch to see if in time , if not the bow goes into the press and twist strings to tune. You would use paper tune, and tune your arrow by punching paper unitl you robin hood an arrow, break nocks or rip vanes off.

I like the idea of the hoist as it is not as loud as a hand winch. 

Thanks for the advice.


----------



## Unk Bond

JDS2500 said:


> I thought that it would, but new to the draw board and shooting machines. When you timed the cam before you had your buddy watch to see if in time , if not the bow goes into the press and twist strings to tune. You would use paper tune, and tune your arrow by punching paper unitl you robin hood an arrow, break nocks or rip vanes off.
> 
> I like the idea of the hoist as it is not as loud as a hand winch.
> 
> Thanks for the advice.


Hello
A 2nd thought. I would use something to go around the bow string.And let it put pull pressure from the back of the D loop.
In case the D loop broke. Get one of those chain link connectors. [ Later


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## JDS2500

I was going to add a secondary loop for safety.


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## BUCK REAPER

Tagged for later


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## sapper1

Tagged.


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## Duncanwelding

Tagged


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## Tek Watts

Seems like a great project.


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## multi-target

Tagged.


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## Sweet Seat

Tagged


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## escorza88

Marked


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## JParcher

Tagged


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## ryans127

Tagged. Cool!


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## JParcher

How does the shooter hold onto the bow after each shot?


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## JParcher

Any other draw board designs out there?


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## Ronon

Tagged


----------



## gunguy15

Hello all, i was hoping you guys could help me. I made my own shooting machine but when i draw my bow back in it the cam timing is way off. Drawing the bow back on my own, the draw stops hit the cable at the same time, but when i draw it back in the machine, the top draw stop hits the cable a good 1/4 inch before the bottom draw stop. I thought my problem was the bow holder i was using which was just a chunck of rubber cut into a U shape, so i swapped it out for the metal U bolt i saw bunch of guys on this thread were using, but the problem continues. I'm stumped. I don't believe my form could be that much different from the machine, i shoot with my hand open, not gripping the bow. I'm open to any suggestions and would be grateful for the advice. Thanks


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## Beastmaster

Gunguy15 - believe the shooting machine. Your timing is off slightly.


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## gunguy15

Hello Beastmaster. Great thread you started, 5 years old and still going strong. Is this something that is common in your experience, such a difference in cam timing from person to machine? looking at the u bolt that is holding the bow in the pictures i would assume that there is no torque, the bow is just pressing up against it. I would think if i were to vary so much from the machine, the variance would be a matter of lateral movement not vertical. I guess i`m just trying to understand what`s going on here. Drawing in the mirror and also next to a friend, both confirm that when i draw the draw stops hit at the same time. Thanks for taking the time to answer.


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## Beastmaster

Only thing I can recommend is video. 

Other than that, if you're happy with the timing as how you draw it - keep it as is. I work with kids in a predominant target environment, so a drawboard/shooting machine is key for getting kids to see how their bow works...


----------



## Aescio

So I'm new to archery (only 4 months in) and while this is a really cool device, could someone please explain to me what I would be able to gain by building this piece of equipment ?


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## Beastmaster

Aescio said:


> So I'm new to archery (only 4 months in) and while this is a really cool device, could someone please explain to me what I would be able to gain by building this piece of equipment ?


It's purpose is to be a draw board (to verify cam position) and to shoot an arrow with to see if the tuning is correct.

I use mine very sparingly. Hence why I don't recommend spending a lot of money on a hooter shooter or similar mechanical shooters unless you tune an absolute ton of bows.


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## Aescio

Thank you very much for the reply. Is there anyway you could direct me to a good resource as to how to verify cam positioning and tuning ?


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## Brandon42166

Ttt for Later 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JDUB007

tag


----------



## GrayTech

Tag


----------



## GrayTech

sepiid said:


> i wonder if you could use this to help sight in perfect for 20yds with an adjustable sight.this would be the real ticket to remove any human error with the sight in process!





marku said:


> No it will not work with sighting in! Its a tuning tool. Everyone anchors differently.


Actually you can. Set your sight pins at each distance desired with the machine, then adjust the whole sight housing to fit your anchor when you shoot it by hand.


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## Paul Lobo

I will be making one soon!


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## redwings423

tag


----------



## RedbeardHD90

tagged


----------



## David Jacks

sweet ... Thanks


----------



## tote

gunguy15 said:


> Hello all, i was hoping you guys could help me. I made my own shooting machine but when i draw my bow back in it the cam timing is way off. Drawing the bow back on my own, the draw stops hit the cable at the same time, but when i draw it back in the machine, the top draw stop hits the cable a good 1/4 inch before the bottom draw stop. I thought my problem was the bow holder i was using which was just a chunck of rubber cut into a U shape, so i swapped it out for the metal U bolt i saw bunch of guys on this thread were using, but the problem continues. I'm stumped. I don't believe my form could be that much different from the machine, i shoot with my hand open, not gripping the bow. I'm open to any suggestions and would be grateful for the advice. Thanks
> View attachment 3050930
> 
> View attachment 3051074
> 
> View attachment 3051082
> 
> View attachment 3051090
> 
> View attachment 3051098



I am in the process of making one like www.sniperarchery.com has.
I already did the $160 mechanical shooter but I want something more consistent.
One difference I have noticed between a mechanical shooter and a human is the shooter draws straight back in a perfect horizontal line where as a human's draw is about 3'' higher.
On my current shooter I have a strap and the winch is set 3'' higher than the d-loop.
At full draw if I press down on the strap it changes my draw stop position.
If one stop hits before the other, be it top or bottom, I can correct it by either pressing down or lifting up on the strap.
My guess is the difference in your stops hitting is the difference between your draw and the draw of the machine.


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## ss315

I need a shooter to help me sight in more accurately and quickly. I have the time to build one just don't have a bunch of time to build one that will require a lot of fine setup detail to get it to shoot consistently. 

Will the DIY one in this thread meet that requirement or I'm I better off getting hooter shooter or sniper archery one? 


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## Beastmaster

ss315 said:


> I need a shooter to help me sight in more accurately and quickly. I have the time to build one just don't have a bunch of time to build one that will require a lot of fine setup detail to get it to shoot consistently.
> 
> Will the DIY one in this thread meet that requirement or I'm I better off getting hooter shooter or sniper archery one?
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The real purpose of any mechanical shooter is for arrow testing and as a draw board for cam timing adjustments. Truth to tell, when I used to work for a bow shop, I also used it to show people that were complaining about their bows that the bow itself was functioning perfectly fine.

I've also used it to shoot and test suspect bows that I didn't trust for whatever reason. One bow that was literally run over by a Jeep was put through the mechanical shooter to ensure that it wouldn't blow up, despite the fact that the advertisements showed otherwise.

You *can* use it to sight in. With every mechanical shooter, you will have to manually adjust things for elevation and windage, this one included.

Every mechanical shooter has their quirks. The DIY one here has it's quirks from the fact that it's based off of a saw stand.

-Steve


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## ss315

Why do must say accurate to 20 or 4O yards only. Why don't they work further out 50, 70 etc


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## Beastmaster

ss315 said:


> Why do must say accurate to 20 or 4O yards only. Why don't they work further out 50, 70 etc
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Because the Human element is not generally able to duplicate the results from a mechanical shooter. And, most indoor ranges don't go beyond 40-50 yards. 

In the Phoenix area, there are very few indoor ranges that go beyond 20 yards. Arizona Archery Club's indoor range maxes out at roughly 45 yards. Ben Avery's indoor range can max out at just shy of 53 yards/49 meters if you shoot diagonally.

-Steve


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## Swamp archer

Cool build. I gotta do this


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## bonecollector66

Tag


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## martin beltran

this is I made


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## ss315

martin beltran said:


> View attachment 4508161
> this is I made


Close up pix?
What did you use as the bow holder/hand?


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## martin beltran




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## martin beltran

I used this piece , is for bicycle


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## mmeadow

Tag

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## StrikerN40015

Nice


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## archery5

Tag


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## Michael T Herne

Awesome thanks for sharing I'm definitely going to bring this to life in my basement. 

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## jim p

My guess is that you are shooting a low wrist grip and the shooter is shooting a very high wrist grip. Try using the highest wrist grip that you can and see how the cams hits.



gunguy15 said:


> Hello all, i was hoping you guys could help me. I made my own shooting machine but when i draw my bow back in it the cam timing is way off. Drawing the bow back on my own, the draw stops hit the cable at the same time, but when i draw it back in the machine, the top draw stop hits the cable a good 1/4 inch before the bottom draw stop. I thought my problem was the bow holder i was using which was just a chunck of rubber cut into a U shape, so i swapped it out for the metal U bolt i saw bunch of guys on this thread were using, but the problem continues. I'm stumped. I don't believe my form could be that much different from the machine, i shoot with my hand open, not gripping the bow. I'm open to any suggestions and would be grateful for the advice. Thanks
> View attachment 3050930
> 
> View attachment 3051074
> 
> View attachment 3051082
> 
> View attachment 3051090
> 
> View attachment 3051098


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## pomorski1

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## skeet16

Just picked up stand from Home Depot for $59 for those interested. 


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## skeet16

05_sprcrw said:


> Looks great! I will be making one of these soon.


You 


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## DHwreckage

sweet rig i may have to build one of these for tuning!


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## redman

Any more info on this like to make one


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## frodriguez01

I think this will be my next project.


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## frodriguez01

Awesome Ideas Thank you all


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## redman

What the best to use as the bow grip to hold bow Who has the best price on the stand


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## redman

Best place to get the stand miter saw stand


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## arrowslinger965

I'm definitely going to build one after reading this. 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## hunterdan49

me to


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## K2man

I bought the parts for this a few years ago, never put it together due to other things taking my time. Just moved, and plan to put this together and put this to use soon. Great to see this thread is still going!


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## serjik

youtube.com/embed/07Y4_kTq7Xc?rel=0


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## Mossybuck

Tagged


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## serjik

youtube.com/watch?v=SRzw7WdojLI


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## aleo

tag


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## NoviceAddicted

Beastmaster said:


> Hi guys and gals! I'm going to give you all a quick lesson in creating your own mechanical shooter and draw board combination for all of $160.
> 
> Yes, that's right. $160, and all you need is a field trip to a Home Depot, a Harbor Freight, and a deep socket tool set. Anyone can build this, and you don't need welding gear, any specialized stuff, or a green alien slave girl to build this for you.
> 
> Starting off - the parts list.
> 
> 1) A Ryobi Miter Saw Quickstand, model # A18MS01. Link is here:
> http://www.ryobitools.com/catalog/accessories/standtables/A18MS01
> 
> Home Depot has it normally for 99 dollars. It's on sale for 79 dollars right now. Rated for 400 pounds of abuse, this will be more than sufficient to handle a bow.
> 
> 2) A Harbor Freight Haulmaster Manual winch., model 95541.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/manual-strap-winch-95541.html
> 
> It's normally priced at 29.99. This is a 900 pound winch.
> 
> 3) Some generic foam tubing, like from a swimming noodle or pipe insulation. 5 bucks.
> 
> 4) Duct Tape and some ball ended shock cord. 5 bucks.
> 
> 5) TruFire Patriot or Patriot Junior release - average price, 20 bucks.
> 
> Total price - $160 excluding tax and gas.


Great Idea. I wish I hadn't sold chickenwing max to use on when I'm able to buy. I'm wondering if I could hook up a hinge release or thimb release to work on ?


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## Ol bubba

Thank you looks like a good project for me to start


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## carlosii

I built one similar to this, but that winch doesn't "reverse" so if you draw it you have to make a shot. Keep thinking I'll get something different but like most things I keep putting it off.


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## NoviceAddicted

carlosii said:


> I built one similar to this, but that winch doesn't "reverse" so if you draw it you have to make a shot. Keep thinking I'll get something different but like most things I keep putting it off.


I don't know carlosi, I have a worm winch that reverses on one draw board, but takes forever to wind unless you have it set up for a drill.


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## muleman027

Nice


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## sad_story

Version 1.0 of my grip. Two U-Bolt (in parallel), Two Foam Rollers (screwed onto top of each u-bolt (set of 4 form harbour supply $2.50 https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-foam-mini-roller-set-95066.html. and rubber tube between t-bar and bow ..


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## NoviceAddicted

I went with the Ryobi stand that Beastmaster stated after looking at different miter saw stands. I also did the foam around bar and bungees to hold bow. This sure beats spending $1600. So far observations. I could use some u bolts to strengthen connection for winch to stand. I could also improve method of holding bow, and see a lot of great ideas here, thinking if I indent like the improvement Beastmaster made that would work too. I've used the machine to creep tune a bow, but lucked out in that it was tuned good and made no adjustments, getting no high or low shots at different pressures of back wall. ( now I know it's me when I hit a high shot not bow). I also nock tuned a dozen bare shafts only turning one nock and ready to fletch. Target archery being so much a mental game nice to know it's me not the bow or arrows when missing a shot. My set up is really basic at this point so a few observations. I am still involved somewhat in the shot when using machine so I have to make sure that the pressure is the same on back wall from winch on each shot when nock tuning bare shafts, also that my bubble is level, am looking through peep and scope the same on each shot and triggering release the same. There has been somewhat of a learning curve but getting some good repeat-ability at 12+ yards in basement, and knowing it will only improve as I am able to make setup better and remove possible variables from setup. I'm not really concerned with hitting bulls-eyes at this point just concerned with being able to hit the same hole with arrows shot to creep tune and bare shaft group or nock tune. Great idea and thread!


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## mkral

Great idea.


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## sad_story

Slight. Upgrade...

With regards to a torquless grip, can someone tell me why this would not ve a solution?

Basically the u-bolt method, but put the ubolt on a center swivel using a simple square tube. 

Anythoughts on why this should not eliminate torque?

(I was considering a square ubolt since all the bows i have had have a flat back-strap..) 

Comments? Thoughts? 












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## sad_story

Once i find a longer bolt0(or all thread), ill make this next mod:

you can use a nut below the pivot to have precision vertical control. 

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## Audible

Fantastic use of a ready built frame!


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## Hawkitwins

I will be doing this after school this summer


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## fenton2005

I found my next project! Nice work!


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## Blp68

Awesome idea!


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## Buckslayer72

Tag


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## Djqpaz

On my list


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## qacwac

If I ever get a place where I'd have room to use this I'll be appreciative of this.


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## LCguy

This is really cool


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## coltd65

Tagged


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## Marbar

Excellent idea!


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## mckenziehunterj

That's a sweet set up. gonna have to look into this.


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## packgoat

Brilliant, thanks for the time spent sharing and great pictures.

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## clafata

Very nice


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## CBSimco

very cool


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## whartko

That's insane!


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## yvedel65

Looks great! I will be making one of these soon.


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## EMK

Great build!!!


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## sad_story

Anyone have any thoughts or modifications on how to make the legs/feet adjustable height (s)

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## jreb3369

Pretty darn cool! I'm gonna have to put one of these together.


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## CTrick

That is pretty cool, guess I have a second use for my miter stand!


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## del lanati

ill have to make one thanks


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## rodco03

looks great good job.


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## maufic

That's cool. Nice job.


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## m_tintin

looks great


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## Guesty33

I might have to try this lol


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## Gene1

Just modified my draw board bottom pic into a shooter. Had 2 old saw horses to mount the kindoff. It does shoot thru the same hole when I sight it. 

Total cost is currently zero dollars. 

I need to pickup the boat roller to mount the grip better so it will cost a few dollars.

The Ryobi stand is nice if I didn’t already have 4 saw horses and 4 portable work benches.


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## rslscobra

Following


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## chip387

very nice, my next project. now i just use a 4x4 with hanging hook and a $22 trailer winch, but this is nicer


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## NCBuckNBass

tagged


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## Tipe

Well I think I need to build one.
I have turnbuckle in my draw board for fine tuning draw stops. 
Just because that winch is pretty rough between clicks.

I was thinking should I install that release to scale so U can get right amount pull in back wall ?
Would that make it even more consistent ?

Great gadgets here...


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## buggz2k

Is this the stand?









Ryobi Miter Saw Stand Green - - Amazon.com


Ryobi Miter Saw Stand Green - - Amazon.com



smile.amazon.com


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## buggz2k

Now $69.00 on Home Depot.


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## aklax11

buggz2k said:


> Now $69.00 on Home Depot.


Awesome just purchased!


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## aklax11

Anyone tried mounting a bow press (e.g. LCA easy green press) to one side and the draw board to the other?


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## Spd

Neat DIY. Have you made any adjustments since?


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## buggz2k

Just received mine.
Now the work begins...


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## sdoug719

Just tried to purchase the Ryobi from Home Depot online, they had 4 available and by the time I went to check out they were all gone. I guess all the AT users jumped on this for $69


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## buggz2k

I think you can order direct from Ryobi, same price, as it was their sale?


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## sdoug719

buggz2k said:


> I think you can order direct from Ryobi, same price, as it was their sale?


I purchased this one here off of Amazon, once I get it set-up I'll post some pics. Looks like it should work, if not then I'll have stand for miter saw



https://www.amazon.com/BORA-Portamate-PM-4000-Folding-Mounting/dp/B002HORLUO/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=miter+saw+stand&qid=1610469834&sr=8-3


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## buggz2k

Be aware, the Ryobi is built VERY sturdy, and heafty.
A nice platform.

Good luck.
Looking forward to more build stories and pictures.

Unfortunately, I haven't proceeded any further, other than the base purchase, sand bagging I guess, sigh...


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## sdoug719

I checked Ryobi's site as well and the only one available is $169 and to purchase it you have to get from Home Depot

Looks like they are phasing out the one for $69


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## buggz2k

Bummer...
This is a 10 year old thread though.
I am also late to the party.


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## buggz2k

RE: the rachet strap.
I don't understand how do you safely release the rachet strap when fully drawn?


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## pizzitem

My rest contacts the 'T' that holds the bow. Does anyone have an easy solution to get this to work with a drop-away? By easy, I mean I can't weld and don't have access to welding stuff. You can ignore the yellow circle.


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## sad_story

Find a long u-bolt and drill 2 holes in the bar... in your picture orientation. 

Place the bow in the “u” and push the bolt through from left side, fasten with nuts on the right side... 

You can use some pipe insulation or a piece of hose around the u-bolt to protect the bow handle...

Does that make sense?


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## pizzitem

sad_story said:


> Find a long u-bolt and drill 2 holes in the bar... in your picture orientation.
> 
> Place the bow in the “u” and push the bolt through from left side, fasten with nuts on the right side...
> 
> You can use some pipe insulation or a piece of hose around the u-bolt to protect the bow handle...
> 
> Does that make sense?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Thank you, I saw your post before but I was missing the rubber hose which I think is the key. In your previous post I saw that you wrapped the u-bolt around the bar. Can I wrap it around the bar or do you think drilling the hole is better? It seems like if I drilled the holes then the bolt couldn't slide?


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## sad_story

pizzitem said:


> Thank you, I saw your post before but I was missing the rubber hose which I think is the key. In your previous post I saw that you wrapped the u-bolt around the bar. Can I wrap it around the bar or do you think drilling the hole is better? It seems like if I drilled the holes then the bolt couldn't slide?


I personally prefer my 2.0 version, with the drilled hole, allowing the pivot. But I think it’s really 6 to one, half a dozen… what you want to build, can build, or even think what best gives the least amount of torque..


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## Bugswest

cruss said:


> Nice! Where can I get a Green Alien Slave Girl?
> "curvy" parameters?


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