# Bareshaft bullet hole...Fletched arrow tear???



## KC-135 USAF (Mar 15, 2006)

I got a perfect bareshaft bullet hole at point blank and thought I was off to a good start so I fletched up the same arrow and am getting a 1/2" left tear.

Should I just pick one method and go with it or should these two match up?

Thanks


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## DaddyPaul (Oct 24, 2003)

Fletching contact? Try some foot powder on the back end of the arrow or lipstick on the vanes and look for signs of contact/transfer.


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## KC-135 USAF (Mar 15, 2006)

Forgot to mention that I already did that and have no contact...


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## DaddyPaul (Oct 24, 2003)

KC-135 USAF said:


> Forgot to mention that I already did that and have no contact...


Doesn't make any sense to me? Bare shaft gives BH, fletched arrow gives tear just screams contact to me. Are you absolutely sure there isn't any contact anywhere..........cables, rest, shelf, your face?


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## bowmender (Jul 5, 2006)

I agree, you got contact somewhere. Cables maybe? were both fletched and bare shafts shot same distance (point blank) ?


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## KC-135 USAF (Mar 15, 2006)

I will double check for contact...bareshaft bullet hole was point blank...fletched tear was about 3 yds.

I will say that the bareshaft began to lose the bullet hole as I back up to 3 yds...I will check to see if the tears are both the same.

My misunderstanding is that I started at 13/16" and have moved it about a 1/16" just to make the barshaft bullet hole. When I hold my bow up I can see that my shaft is not really "straight" anymore due to the adjustments.

It's weird that a shaft looks off center yet can almost make a bullet hole

Theoretically if I keep moving my rest inwards then I could fix my left tear and even reverse it to a right tear, but my arrow is already awkward looking enough that I have a feeling it won't work...I mean heck, I'm firing an arrow that is already leaving my bow pointing to the right.


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## sneak1413 (Aug 15, 2007)

KC-135 USAF said:


> I will double check for contact...bullet hole was point blank...fletching was about 3 yds.
> 
> I will say that the bareshaft began to lose the bullet hole as I back up to 3 yds...I will check to see if the tears are both the same.
> 
> ...


Make sure when you paper tune you don't just do it at one distance. start at point blank and shoot at every yard back to about 10 yards and get the most consistant bullet hole that you can out to that distance with the average of them all. Many times when you get that bullet hole you will get slight left and right nicks in the paper because of the arrow oscilation.


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## TMan51 (Jan 25, 2004)

There are many ways to do this, over many years, even before the days of AT, I learned that Tuning is usually a multi step/multi distance process.

After setting the bow up to manufacturers specs, I begin tuning with a bare shaft at 5ft, then repeat the test at 15ft. If the shaft is coming out of the bow straight at both distances, it will usually plane a fletched shaft/bare shaft set at 15ft and 15yds to the same point of impact. But I always use two distances to see if I just got lucky at catching an oscillating shaft in a sweet spot, which I have often done.

Certainly, you could do the planing shaft set out to 20 or even 30yds, and I have, but it isn't going to show much, and avoids lost or damaged arrows from micro errors on the shooters part.


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## DaddyPaul (Oct 24, 2003)

Set your rest to 11/16"s from the shelf to the center of a nocked arrow at brace and see what happens. Also shoot both from the same distance to compare the tears on a more even basis.

I'm betting with your idler lean set properly you will be really close to a bullet hole with both at 11/16"s for your centershot.


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