# Nock point?



## DDSHOOTER (Aug 22, 2005)

Here's the question. What is the best way to move the Nock point on your bow? With the rest, with the nock on the string or with Tiller. DD


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## bucks/bulls (May 23, 2010)

What I do is set my noc then adjust my rest works well for me,as for tiller its a rarity I need get involved that far in2 tuning,less a dual cam bow,but once done it should be set unless you incounter string stretch and in that case I'd be gettin a new custom string,but I'm no proshop guy niether jus an avid bowhunter
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## AKRuss (Jan 10, 2003)

With a 2-cam bow, I set the arrow rest so that the shaft centers the berger hole. Then I set nock height, starting at 3/8", and then set zero tiller (for a late model Hoyt). If tillering required much at all, I reset the nock to 3/8". I then set centershot so that the string visually touches the inside of the shaft. Actually I use an EZE EYE laser tool for this but it's optional. I then start bare shaft tuning and make adjustments from there. These adjustments could include nock height, tiller and certainly centershot and plunger tension. I've tried cam creep tuning and tiller tuning and have met with some success with both. From there I shoot at range for groups. 

With a Mathews Apex, as per the manual, I set tiller by even adjustment of the limb bolts, nock at 3/8" and center shot at 13/16" from insde of the riser. After that, the only thing remaining is plunger tension and maybe playing with center shot. The proof is grouping well at 50 and 80 yards.


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## DDSHOOTER (Aug 22, 2005)

Thanks for the replies. I Use a dropway and can adjust the nock point at either end of the arrow. So is it best to adjust the rest end or the nock on the string? The reason I am asking this is because I have been playing around with tiller on my UltraElite hoyt with XT3000 limbs and Z3 cam.5. And it seems that my best groups come from the bottom limbs set with a 1/2 turn end from the top limb, which resets the nock set a nock lower or about a nock high from even and slightly high on the burger button hole. I am not sure this is the best setting because I shoot two fingers under which kind of leads me to my next point. 

Because I am not pulling back even on both sides of the arrow and holding there? The arrow should be offset higher on the riser than even with the burger button hole, right? I have been getting alittle more wear on the string serving below the nockset with the limb set even and a higher nockset/even on BG hole. Which kind of tells me that when I let go of the string the arrow slips down slightly and then back up before it leaves the string causing some high or lower shots. I hope I have explained the problem. DD


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## fuelracerpat (May 6, 2008)

Give us a few more details on your set-up......
How many nock points? One above, one below? Are you using metal nock points? Served nock points? Is your drop away consistent on its elevation, the string tie-down not moved, etc.
Don't know a great deal about the geometry on the Hoyt, is the center of the bow on the arrow rest hole or at the throat of the grip?
The tiller should be measured as a distance from the inside of the limb at the end of the riser to a point perpendicular to the string. The 1/2 turn info doesn't tell us a lot.
Typically, for me, I see wear in the nock area of the string regardless of position of the nock set. I have to re-serve my string about three times a year and usually replace the string yearly. I will shoot 12-15,000 arrows a year.
For my set-up I will place the arrow rest on the bow with the shaft centered on the plunger, the tiller set where I shoot it(usually about a strings diameter greater distance on the top limb) and THEN set the nock point at 5/16" above square. I shoot barebow and walk the string, this may not suit your style.
Don't know if this helps....keep asking if we can further confuse you


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## Harperman (Sep 3, 2006)

Double-D.......Dont know if this will help You, but I always set my Hoyts up with the arrow rest and arrow centered on the berger hole, and adjust nock point height from there....I've only messed with Tiller on a bow once, I normally just shoot my bows with even Tiller.....Jim


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## DDSHOOTER (Aug 22, 2005)

Thanks guys for the replies. I not sure about the geometry of the bow except that I think its centered at the grip and the cams are engineered to takeup about 1 1/2" on the bottom limbs to makeup for the height difference between the berger button and grip? 

Normally, I tie on one nock set point at about two arrow nock's high from even with the berger hole (3/8"), poundage and draw lenght are the more critical factors for me. But after see the information about tiller from another Thread I began to play around with that in hopes of getting a better holding bow and improving on my comeback from TP. 

I found that the bow held on target better with the bottom limb 1/2 turn on the limb bolt out from even with the top, but it grouped better with the same bottom limb 1/2 turn tighter, when I made well aimed shots but poorly excuted shot (As part of the procedure outline in the Archers Tiller Tuning Tuturial guide). With the bow limb adjusted this way it lowered the nock one full nock from were it had been initially set. So I thought that setting the nock point was maybe a better way to fine tune the bow for best groups that were well aimed but poorly executed, and leaving the limbs even as engineered? 
So As a experiment: I reset the tiller to even and adjusted the rest so the arrow shaft was 1/2 shaft above the berger button hole, which lowered the nock point on the string to a 1/2 nock high. The bow shoots the same or even better when compared to the tiller uneven setting. Its like my form/holding under the arrow wants the arrow to be higher on the riser and lower on the string. Oh, by the way the Cams are checked for timing anytime after I make an adjustment and they are alway in time. The dropaway is not the problem here. The dropaway has a spring on the down cord that lets me time how long it stay up by rotating a collar and setting spring tension, giving the launcher to support the arrow up until 4" before the fletching before it start to fallaway. I set it up the same way for my son's release bow. Which shoots great as well as several other buddy finger shooters. Am I off here? Can anyone explain this to me the best way to determine your best nock setting? dd


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## DDSHOOTER (Aug 22, 2005)

Anyone? I did measure the center point of the bow to be lightly above the throat of the grip and the berger button hole about 1 3/4" above that. I have not done any full draw measurements. dd


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## fuelracerpat (May 6, 2008)

If arrow flight is good with the method you described, I'd go with it and Devil take the hindmost. Otherwise,(poor arrow flight) I hate to say it but I would probably play with a bare shaft a little and see what that tells you.


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## archerm3 (Jan 4, 2007)

1st choice, rest. 

2nd choice, tiller

3rd choice, moving nock. 

Reason is because I adjust the cam sync on my bows for my 3 finger hold, and if the nock moves much it needs to be adjusted. Not much, but it does change.


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## DDSHOOTER (Aug 22, 2005)

Thanks! If the cam sync is off I get poor arrow flight with this bow. But with my Vectric XL it shoots best with the top cam 1 cable thickness early. Haven't played much with bare shaft tuning with this bow. But I will say I get better flight with 1.75" vs 1.5" X vanes. Shot the other day at 60 Yards, my best was 2 in the spot and two just out to the left. All were at the same height. dd


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