# Tiller on Recurve?



## tichound (Mar 3, 2008)

I checked tiller on my samick sage, and there is a 1/2" differance.
cant remember top or bottom, but is this normal?
I know that some bows are tillered for 3 under, but what is normal tiller on the sage, or any recurve for that matter?


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## JParanee (Oct 13, 2009)

Depends

3 under is zero

Split is 1/8 to 3/8 positive


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## Destroyer (Sep 11, 2009)

I set mine for 1/4 less on the bottom limb (positive tiller) using split or three finger under, great thing about ILF, adjustable. Haven't measured my Sage but its not a big deal.


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## tichound (Mar 3, 2008)

Was just wondering, if all recurves were that way.


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## Destroyer (Sep 11, 2009)

What way?


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

tic -

Odds are you measured it incorrectly. A 1/2" tiller difference is out of spec for any standard design recurve. If you're sure about the measurement, consider returning the bow. 

Most production bows are tillered 1/8" lower limb positive (shorter than the upper limb measurement). 

The difference in tiller between split and 3 under is on the order of 1/8", and that's easily tuned out by nocking point placement. 

Viper1 out.


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## tichound (Mar 3, 2008)

Thanks Viper, I measured from where the limb meets the riser up to the string with a bow square, is this the correct way?


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## Jeb-D. (Sep 21, 2011)

Does it matter if the bow was intended to be shot with a rest vs. off the shelf? I'd think the ideal tiller would be different for the two.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

tic -

That sounds right, at least for ILF bows, but as a sanity check, measure it from the fade-out or feather point on each limb and see how it goes.









If it's still off by that much, think about returning the bow or at least having it looked at by someone more familiar with it. 

Honestly, I've never checked the tiller on a Sage, so that's more of a generic response.

Viper1 out.


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

Jeb, "three under tiller" threads used to get much play around here. There are folks who believe it's a necessity to have separate tiller requirements. When you count the small difference from moving one finger down, against things that should really make a difference in dynamic action but don't cause a need for tiller change, like you note with the shelf/rest location, it really becomes apparent that there ain't much to it to worry on either way. 

IOW, tiller can be a whole lot about nothing. Where you would notice a problem with an imbalance of any magnitude is in having the bow feel to draw uneven or a limb dynamically out of tune with the other, it can happen and require a tiller change, but the small stuff like moving a finger or rest - usually, not that big a deal, again.

Yes, measure again, as that 1/2" is not a good number for a stock setting.


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## bob barnes (Jun 12, 2003)

I guess I learned something...I always measured to the deepest part of the bend/fade area...not necessarily to the end of the taper...selfbows and laminated bows alike...?
I always look for about 1/8" positive as it feels the best when shooting...


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## Farnsrocket (Jan 2, 2014)

Just checked my Sage.......it's equal.


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