# removing glued nocks off aluminum



## Stash (Jun 1, 2002)

Very little bit of heat, like a lighter or torch, and they will pull off easily with pliers. Then use a solvent to clean the end of any glue residue. Do not scrape or sand the taper. 

To replace, put a small drop of slow-setting lacquer-based glue like Fletch Tite Platinum, push on the nock, rotate to the correct position and let dry at least an hour. Do NOT use a CA type glue.


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## averageJoe576 (Oct 13, 2014)

Alright, thanks!

I assume regular super glue is a no-no as well?


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## Stash (Jun 1, 2002)

Yeah - CA (CyanoAcrylate) glue is Super Glue. It reacts badly to the plastic in the nocks, makes them brittle.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

Stash said:


> Do not scrape or sand the taper.


Unless you own one of these.http://www.genesisarchery.com/other.htm

see the nock end repair tool.

but I do recommend you still put a drop of nock glue on the swage end before installing the nock.

I keep one in our arrow repair case.


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## midwayarcherywi (Sep 24, 2006)

I must have been lucky for a few decades. I scrape off the broken nock with a pocket knife, as well as any old glue residue. Glue on the new knock with CA, twisting the new nock on the swage end to create a bit of friction. Don't forget to index the new nock. All done. Let it set up for an appropriate time. It's never been a problem. And really pretty simple.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

midwayarcherywi said:


> I must have been lucky for a few decades. I scrape off the broken nock with a pocket knife, as well as any old glue residue. Glue on the new knock with CA, twisting the new nock on the swage end to create a bit of friction. Don't forget to index the new nock. All done. Let it set up for an appropriate time. It's never been a problem. And really pretty simple.


Me too. I cut off and scraped nocks off for decades as well. When I had my Martin Scepter "genesised" (shoot through system) I saw the nock end repair tool on their website and purchased one since I wasn't going to have to pay extra shipping. Never looked back..

I have seen many swaged ends destroyed or sanded/scraped unevenly by over zealous people causing the nock to not seat properly but never had the problem myself.

I have never tried CA glues though. I saw what they did to the plastic and decided not to go there since I always had the recommended glue around.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

Stash said:


> Yeah - CA (CyanoAcrylate) glue is Super Glue. *It reacts badly to the plastic in the nocks,* makes them brittle.


That has to be a bad batch of nocks or maybe some bad CA...maybe fast set- it gets hot. I've been using CA for years- actually, always use CA and never one problem. BUT, I use quality CA's- not the cheap "super glue" at the check-out lane. 

Any CA you get from a hobby shop will work fine without causing any problems with the nock. I like the BSI brand of CA's- especially their Foam Safe and the rubberized.


How I get my nocks off the swaged ends...below- then clean with knife/razor.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-E...7-/171510845829?pt=Pliers&hash=item27eed7d185


Or, better way-

cut off the swaged end at the end of the parallel.
buy uni bushings
never worry about it again.


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## AndyZed (Mar 27, 2011)

I used to heat them to remove, scrape with a knife, or used to have a tool that was like an old pencil sharpener but it had a rasp instead of a blade.

I used ferrul-tite to glue them on, just enough time to index before it set.


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## AndyZed (Mar 27, 2011)

dchan said:


> Unless you own one of these.http://www.genesisarchery.com/other.htm
> 
> see the nock end repair tool.


That's the one









I second cutting them off and installing a bushing.


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

Man, this is reminding me of archery in the 80's. 

Good times.


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## archeryal (Apr 16, 2005)

I wouldn't use Ferr-l-Tite on nocks: nocks are susceptible to deforming with heat. Softening them could destroy or bend the nocks (different nock fit, bends, simply, any differences between arrows would reduce accuracy. I use Fletch-tite.


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## AndyZed (Mar 27, 2011)

archeryal said:


> I wouldn't use Ferr-l-Tite on nocks: nocks are susceptible to deforming with heat. Softening them could destroy or bend the nocks (different nock fit, bends, simply, any differences between arrows would reduce accuracy. I use Fletch-tite.


I would put a small amount on the end of the shaft, never had a problem with too much heat. Just enough time to index before it sets. Then you can heat the nock when you need to change it again and it pops right off. 

To each their own, a million ways to do all the things we do.


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## caspian (Jan 13, 2009)

I personally use Fletchtite for taper nocks. seems to work OK.


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

Original Fletch-Tite was great glue for vanes, feathers and nocks. The "new" Fletch-Tite Platinum isn't good for anything I've found. I never use it anymore.


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

The "new" Fletch-Tite became even "newer" last year. 

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2138290
This thread contains correspondence from Bohning concerning the new "newer" formula.

Is it "newly newer and improved" to its original integrity? Dunno. The correspondence from Bohning indicates that they must live with the new formula for a while to catch the overall word on the street in order to assess the critical mass of user feedback as to its success or failure within the aluminum domain. The drawing board remains chalky on this one.

In the meantime, options abound and are obviously being successfully exploited.


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