# DIY cultipacker/roller



## IA Monsterbuck

How do you connect it to your atv?

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## Ricky 2feathers

So how long was the full stick of Covert for 59.00? Also seeing that the pipe is solid with the concrete, do you use bearings and a trailer type tongue to hook it up to your atv or tractor? I think a Simle trailor tongue made from 2" X 1/4" Angle iron with Pillow Block bearings would work realy well! Thanks for the post. Looks great and should do the job!!


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## sconibowhntr

the full stick of culvert was 20'-0"


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## Dan Belman

Clever,
I think you are on to something .
Keep us posted on how you finish . 


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## sconibowhntr

So my thoughts for finishing this packer is to put 1.25" O.D. pipe through the pipe I poured concrete around and create some sort of frame towards the four wheeler and meet in the middle about 30" in front of the packer (an "A" frame concept). At this point I'll bolt on a 1-7/8" coupler so I can easily hook it up to the hitch. Any ideas of what type of metal (i.e. square tubing, 1.5x1.5 angle etc.) would be greatly appreciated along with any frame design ideas. Tomorrow I'll design something in AutoCAD at work and upload it on here.


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## Ricky 2feathers

Hello, I drew up a quick design. It is crude but I believe it would work out good. # 1 you do not want the distance only 30" From your Cultipacker. You would have to make very wide turns. I designed it to be 6 feet long and with the 40" Cultipacker you should be able to turn a lot sharper without jackknifing. I desined it out of 2" Square tubing 1/8" Thick. Take a look and see what you think!


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## dw'struth

I like it.......good job!!


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## Ricky 2feathers

I had to do some thinking on this because I felt something was missing?? Then it hit me, you have to have something to kep the grooves cleaned out of the packer. So I redesigned it with another 2" Brace towards the Packer and all you have to do is weld 5/8" Cold roll onto it going into your grooves. Leave 3/8" Clearance so it does not hit your Colvert anywhere! See if this makes sense!


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## ruffme

I'm not sure I like the grooves at all. I'm thinking of trying this but using the smooth cardboard tubes they use for round footings.

2" square tube is awfully hefty in my mind as well....but the design aspect looks good.


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## sconibowhntr

Ricky 2feathers - the fingers to clean out the grooves is an awesome idea!! i'm gonna use it. The only thing i have a question about is on the right end of the 1.25" pipe where the 2" tubing touches this pipe, how are you stopping the pipe from going any farther left? I see the pin on the left end, i'm thinking your idea is to weld a 1/8" plate on the right end of that pipe? Thanks for this sweet design!!!


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## ruffme

Are you worried that a lot of seeds may go into the grooves on each pass?


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## sconibowhntr

redruff i'm not sure which grooves you're talking about, seeds sticking to the soil that get clogged in the packer or falling into the grooves the packer will make in the soil?


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## ruffme

With the ridges and valleys, the ridges will pack and the valleys won't. If you broadcast seed, the seed that gets under a ridge will get packed and ones that get in the valley won't.

Make sense? Or am I missing something?


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## sconibowhntr

I understand, the sheer weight of this unit will depress the soil enough to also compact the valley portion of contact, but as soon as I use this unit I will report back and let everyone know just to be safe! thanks for the question!


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## ruffme

Do you have the plates cut where the tubes come together for the hitch? Or are you doing a ball hitch?


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## sconibowhntr

I'm going to do a 1-7/8" coupler


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## ruffme

sconibowhntr said:


> I'm going to do a 1-7/8" coupler


Cool! If you were going to go flat plates and do a pin hitch I was going to make you an offer you couldn't refuse!


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## Ricky 2feathers

Ok, On your 1.25" Pipe that goes through the 2" Pipe already cemented in. You weld a Plate on the right side of the 1.25" Pipe so it will not go through the whole in your frame. It then can go through your the 2" Square tubing and then into the 2" Pipe, all the way though the other 2" Square tube frame. Then a washer and pin put in it! Your 2" Pipe would be cut to fit inside the frame. Thats what would keep it from moving left or right. You could make this work several ways! You could weld plates onto the Frame that your 1.25" Pipe axle would go through and the 2" Pipe cut to fit inside those plates or just drill 1.25" Hole through your 2" Square tubing frame. This is one reason I went with the 2" Square tubing. So your axle (1.25") would be able to go through the 2" Square tubing and be strong enough for all the weight. Hope that makes sense! LOL


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## sconibowhntr

redruff what was going to be your offer? the design is still on paper


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## sconibowhntr

Ricky 2feathers said:


> Ok, On your 1.25" Pipe that goes through the 2" Pipe already cemented in. You weld a Plate on the right side of the 1.25" Pipe so it will not go through the whole in your frame. It then can go through your the 2" Square tubing and then into the 2" Pipe, all the way though the other 2" Square tube frame. Then a washer and pin put in it! Your 2" Pipe would be cut to fit inside the frame. Thats what would keep it from moving left or right. You could make this work several ways! You could weld plates onto the Frame that your 1.25" Pipe axle would go through and the 2" Pipe cut to fit inside those plates or just drill 1.25" Hole through your 2" Square tubing frame. This is one reason I went with the 2" Square tubing. So your axle (1.25") would be able to go through the 2" Square tubing and be strong enough for all the weight. Hope that makes sense! LOL



just thought of something concerning the welded fingers.......i measured the grooves to be 1" wide so i would make the fingers 3/4" wide for clearance but with this whole design isn't there going to be a little bit of "shifting" left and right where as those fingers might come into contact with the "ridge" walls on the packer?


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## sconibowhntr

but yes ricky 2feathers your previous explaination does make sense completely! another question/concern of mine would be how much wear and tear on the 2" square frame would result from the pipe(cemented in) rubbing on it while turning with the packer? i planned on greasing the "axle" pipe should i just do the same between the rotating pipe and the frame?


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## Ricky 2feathers

To keep the shift going from left and right, you build the frame so the 2" Pipe already concreted in the packer, fits snug inbetween the frame ends.


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## sconibowhntr

Ricky 2feathers said:


> To keep the shift going from left and right, you build the frame so the 2" Pipe already concreted in the packer, fits snug inbetween the frame ends.


understood, i think i will order 20' of the 2" x1/8" square tubing through my shop tomorrow. I will keep you guys posted with pics


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## Ricky 2feathers

I also thought about the wear and yes over time you will get some with this design. You could also do it one more way and do away with the 1.25" Pipe axle you were going to use. Thats what I made the design around! You could take and make your frame from 2" Square tubing just like the design you see, But instead of running another shaft through your 2" pipe already cemented in, you could buy 2- 2" Pillow block bearings and bolt them to the 2" Square tubing frame. Your 2" Pipe would run through these bearings. They also have grease inserts built into the Pillow block bearings to keep everything running smooth! The Pillow block bearings also have a locking collar with set screws that will keep the 2" Pipe from going left or right!


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## sconibowhntr

Ricky 2feathers said:


> I also thought about the wear and yes over time you will get some with this design. You could also do it one more way and do away with the 1.25" Pipe axle you were going to use. Thats what I made the design around! You could take and make your frame from 2" Square tubing just like the design you see, But instead of running another shaft through your 2" pipe already cemented in, you could buy 2- 2" Pillow block bearings and bolt them to the 2" Square tubing frame. Your 2" Pipe would run through these bearings. They also have grease inserts built into the Pillow block bearings to keep everything running smooth! The Pillow block bearings also have a locking collar with set screws that will keep the 2" Pipe from going left or right!


That might be an even better option depending on price of the bearings, I will crunch the numbers tomorrow and keep u updated


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## Ricky 2feathers

I think the last Pillow Block bearing I bought were around 14.00 each for 1 1/4" Bearings! I will guess about 20.00 each.


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## Ricky 2feathers

I used them to build this!


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## sconibowhntr

Alright, I will definetly consider that!


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## sconibowhntr

Are These pillow blocks strong enough to stop 400lbs going down hill?


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## Ricky 2feathers

Yes, I used the 1 1/4" Pillow bock bearings on a Weight transfer sled. They held a shaft that pulled up a weight box that weighed over 2,000 lbs up a 6 deg angle. They will hold it fine!


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## sconibowhntr

Sounds good I'm going to go the pillow block direction


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## Ricky 2feathers

Good Choice. To me it will last a lot longer and will operate smoother with that added expense! Less maintance to!! Post up some pics when you get it done!!:thumbs_up


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## wellingtontx

Nice job


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## Ricky 2feathers

Post up some pics when you get it built. I am thinking about building one myself!:thumbs_up


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## ruffme

sconibowhntr said:


> redruff what was going to be your offer? the design is still on paper


I was gonna cut the triangle hitch pieces for you on a fancy cnc plasmacutter.


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## sconibowhntr

redruff said:


> I was gonna cut the triangle hitch pieces for you on a fancy cnc plasmacutter.


ahhhh i see, thanks for the offer!


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## sconibowhntr

here is the final design of this roller, tubing is being ordered tomorrow and the (2) pillow block bearings are being bought as well. Let me know what you think

View attachment ROLLER.pdf


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## ruffme

Great creative designing! Dying to see it in action. The way the weather is going you may need it next week!


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## sconibowhntr

redruff said:


> Great creative designing! Dying to see it in action. The way the weather is going you may need it next week!


I hear you on that!! we might go done not this weekend but next and stir up some ground


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## WIarcher

great idea. looks like I will be scouting around for a piece of plastic culvert.


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## Ricky 2feathers

Looks Great!! Should give you amble room for turning with the single post verses the A Frame hitch and also will not have to be as long! Post some pics when you get it done!!:thumbs_up


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## bigracklover

Good thread! I'm curious to see how the quikrete holds up inside the hdpe without any reinforcing, please keep us posted. Perhaps it won't hurt performance even if it does break up.


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## MDL

I like this design. I might take a couple ideas thrown on here such as the cardboard roll, and add some bolts to it, and you have yourself an aerator.


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## sconibowhntr

Well guys one step closer to finishing this roller up!


























Welding everything tomorrow and bolting the coupler and bearings on!


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## a1hunter

just a thought you could mount pneamatic tires on the opp side of the bearing for higher speed transport to and from plot locations to preserve the life of roller bearing.


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## delani's dad

Now that it is too late,lol...if you used a galvanized culvert you wouldn't have to make the fingers to clean out the grooves. And you might even be able to find some used ones at the local road commission yard. Just a thought anyways. I want to make one of these if depending on how well it works out.


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## ruffme

a1hunter said:


> just a thought you could mount pneamatic tires on the opp side of the bearing for higher speed transport to and from plot locations to preserve the life of roller bearing.


Excellent idea! Flip and go!


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## Ricky 2feathers

Looking Good! Make sure you leave about a 2" Gab between your cross rail where your cleaning fingers go and the roller so dirt/mud will not cake up and bind it. If you get it to close that will happen! Also with the bearings mounted like they are, it does not look like you have much clearence between the frame and ground! about an inch looking at the picture! Might hang your frame on uneven ground!:thumbs_up


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## Ricky 2feathers

redruff said:


> Excellent idea! Flip and go!


 That would be nice, but with all that weight it might be a bit hard to flip it over! You could make wheels that would retract and just raise and lower them to make it work!


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## sconibowhntr

a1hunter said:


> just a thought you could mount pneamatic tires on the opp side of the bearing for higher speed transport to and from plot locations to preserve the life of roller bearing.


great idea just don't want to spend the money, i've got a small utility trailer that we'll haul it in.......maybe in the future


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## sconibowhntr

Ricky 2feathers said:


> Looking Good! Make sure you leave about a 2" Gab between your cross rail where your cleaning fingers go and the roller so dirt/mud will not cake up and bind it. If you get it to close that will happen! Also with the bearings mounted like they are, it does not look like you have much clearence between the frame and ground! about an inch looking at the picture! Might hang your frame on uneven ground!:thumbs_up


Thanks for the advice! i'm gonna hang the bearings from the frame instead of sitting on it. more clearance!


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## Ricky 2feathers

Hanging the bearings will work good and should give you plenty of ground to frame clearence then!! Lets us know how it works out and post up some pics when you get it all done!:thumbs_up


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## sconibowhntr

Ttt


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## sportsman315

I am thinking of making this design also. How did the cultipacker work for you? Did dirt actually stick the plastic? I am wondering if the fingers are a necessity?


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## pokerjokerau

Where did you get the majority of your parts? Went to Home Depot, and pillow block bearings, culvert, and square tubing were like trying to get a hamburger in india.


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