# Centering the peep to ?????



## Tipe (May 19, 2018)

Hi, 

Just interested about how U' center your sights ?

Centering the peep into target and put dot in middle or centering the peep into scope housing and aim ?

This tought started here:


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## *SWITCH (Nov 27, 2007)

um I do both, scope housing gets centered into peep, then aiming circle in centre of target face. I only do WA target faces. sometimes the circle will sit a little off, but this is usually ok if it only a tiny bit. Holding it steady there of course is the tricky bit.


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## NoviceAddicted (Dec 25, 2015)

It's been awhile, so trying to remember correctly. If indoor using target sight (Sure-Loc Supreme) Knowing I'm at same distance for everything I set up in my most natural anchor point which for me is the corner of my jaw to peep sight, dot on lens and middle of target all centered making adjustments for all 3 to match my anchor on jaw. If for field archery I set everything up to align at 40 yards for the same anchor point on jaw, knowing for me at least my anchor point changes slightly for distances ranging from close to 80 yards. I make sure I'm good at 40 yards by shooting, adjusting sight elevation and make note of number on sight scale for 40 yards. I'm not sure if explaining correctly, but if I'm setting up a peep it usually means it's for a new set of strings so checking my distances for arrow speed and new sight tape also.


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## 1diamondshooter (Jun 3, 2019)

I'm certainly no pro so take this as you may. Right now I am concentrating on shooting the 720 round.
I have a 2x scope with a dot and a circle. I center the peep to the scope housing and the circle in the scope to the target.
This brings the dot to the center of the ten ring. Not that I can hold it there :sad:


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## enderson (Apr 21, 2015)

I used to always center the housing in the peep. Once I got used to centering the Target in the peep I realized how much smoother and effective it is. Centering of the housing just naturally takes care of itself through that process but the sequence seems much better instead of centering the housing and trying to put that picture into the center of the target.

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## Tipe (May 19, 2018)

enderson said:


> I used to always center the housing in the peep. Once I got used to centering the Target in the peep I realized how much smoother and effective it is. Centering of the housing just naturally takes care of itself through that process but the sequence seems much better instead of centering the housing and trying to put that picture into the center of the target.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Exactly what I'm thinking and need to try that.... and put so small peep that I won't even see scope.
Just put it in middle and execute.. as I heard Reo Wilde to say in coaches box when team mate is shooting WA 50m


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## enderson (Apr 21, 2015)

Tipe said:


> Exactly what I'm thinking and need to try that.... and put so small peep that I won't even see scope.
> Just put it in middle and execute.. as I heard Reo Wilde to say in coaches box when team mate is shooting WA 50m


Another thing I've noticed over time with centering the target in the peep is housing, peep and target alignment are more consistent overall. I used to get a little lost in the dot, and effort to put it in the middle, and did not realize peep alignment was slightly off from time to time. Differences like that miss super X on Vegas face pretty easily. When lining up circles instead the dot just finds its way into the middle as a result not an intention, it's really nice. Then much more aware of maintaining those alignments of those circles since proprioception seems more natural. 

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## Tipe (May 19, 2018)

enderson said:


> Another thing I've noticed over time with centering the target in the peep is housing, peep and target alignment are more consistent overall.


And when it's all about consistency in this sport, that is big thing !
I will try, now centering scope housing to peep and find dot into middle.
Maybe it will improve my consistency and scores also..


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## nestly (Apr 19, 2015)

It all works out to be the same thing. To be accurate, the pin, peep, and target all have to be aligned consistently for the arrow to hit consistently on the target. Doesn't matter whether you start by centering the front sight in the peep and then move the pin to the target, or if you start by centering the target in the peep and then move the peep to the middle of the target.... either all 3 are lined up consistently when the shot is fired and the arrow lands consistently, or all 3 aren't lined up when the shot is fired and the arrow doesn't land consistently.


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

nestly said:


> It all works out to be the same thing. To be accurate, the pin, peep, and target all have to be aligned consistently for the arrow to hit consistently on the target. Doesn't matter whether you start by centering the front sight in the peep and then move the pin to the target, or if you start by centering the target in the peep and then move the peep to the middle of the target.... either all 3 are lined up consistently when the shot is fired and the arrow lands consistently, or all 3 aren't lined up when the shot is fired and the arrow doesn't land consistently.


This ^^^

The only way that wouldn't happen is if the dot/pin is not centered in the scope.


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## enderson (Apr 21, 2015)

Respectfully disagree, there's a reason the Griv crew put that out and when you work with it it makes a difference. Take an extreme example of aligning the peep to the housing way off Target and then having to maintain that and finding the bullseye with it is a big difference.

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## Tipe (May 19, 2018)

enderson said:


> Respectfully disagree, there's a reason the Griv crew put that out and when you work with it it makes a difference. Take an extreme example of aligning the peep to the housing way off Target and then having to maintain that and finding the bullseye with it is a big difference.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Well I will do this... try to go that way when indoor practice season starts.
Try to center peep to target and put dot in middle there.
No need to see even scope from peep, just put that dot in middle of smallest peep what I have able to see target/pin thru my Podium Peep.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

I've set peep with target anywhere from 5-20 yards...makes no difference. I stand on level ground, level head, level arrow, level shoulders.. draw several times withe eyes closed then on last smooth draw with solid anchor I'll open my eyes--- adjust peep to be exactly centered on eye pupil... then adjust vertical sight bar to maximum travel.

Doing this means the anchor is always the same


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## nestly (Apr 19, 2015)

enderson said:


> Respectfully disagree, there's a reason the Griv crew put that out and when you work with it it makes a difference. Take an extreme example of aligning the peep to the housing way off Target and then having to maintain that and finding the bullseye with it is a big difference.


Why would you draw your bow in a direction that's very different than the direction you intend to shoot? The same alignment problem exists either way if you draw your bow pointed far away from the target whether you use the peep/target method, or the peep/pin method. In general, you should draw the bow and instinctually have the bow pointed very close to the target already when you settle into anchor before you even begin centering things.


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## enderson (Apr 21, 2015)

nestly said:


> Why would you draw your bow in a direction that's very different than the direction you intend to shoot? The same alignment problem exists either way if you draw your bow pointed far away from the target whether you use the peep/target method, or the peep/pin method. In general, you should draw the bow and instinctually have the bow pointed very close to the target already when you settle into anchor before you even begin centering things.


Think you're missing what I was saying. But in terms of drawing a lot of even top pros draw pretty decently above the Target and settle down on spot.

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## nestly (Apr 19, 2015)

enderson said:


> Think you're missing what I was saying. But in terms of drawing a lot of even top pros draw pretty decently above the Target and settle down on spot.


Yes, and how close is the peep to being centered on the target before they "settle" down into their anchor? No closer than the pin is before they "settle" down into their anchor. The most logical method, and what most do is get the bow anchored to their body first, then pivot at the waist to get the bow precisely aligned. Not different than recurve shooter that have no peep, proper form and anchor first, then point/aim the bow at the target


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## enderson (Apr 21, 2015)

nestly said:


> Yes, and how close is the peep to being centered on the target before they "settle" down into their anchor? No closer than the pin is before they "settle" down into their anchor. The most logical method, and what most do is get the bow anchored to their body first, then pivot at the waist to get the bow precisely aligned. Not different than recurve shooter that have no peep, proper form and anchor first, then point/aim the bow at the target


I don't disagree with what you're saying and have done the same for years. Grivs video above at like 2 minutes in explains it even better it's just advantageous to center the target and most of the young top guys coming up I've talked to are doing it as well. If you try it for a while I think you might be surprised. The housing becomes irrelevant and even a slightly clunky unnecessary step. Hip bend and all that good stuff when needing to lean doesn't change

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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Use to do a lot of off the wall sighting and with bunch of different pins, dots and circles. BUT along comes Jesse......Start with peep in to get in the ball park.....

Jesse is using 20 yards, but for 3D I use 25 and 30 yards depending on my aging eyes. My max yardage in ASA is 40 yards.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

More, have the correct angle peep. Okay, bunch of medical stuff going on with me and for whatever reason 1/2" short draw mods felt better. And then up and down shot placement wandering. Okay, one of my medical things is I lost partial vision in my left eye. Even though I shoot right handed the two blind spots in my left eye messed with me. Only after days of battling my shots wandering I realized the bottom of my peep was blurry. 38 3/4" ata bow and 7 1/4" brace height and dropped from 28 1/2" to 28.0". So I looked up Specialty Archery peep chart and there I found the 45 degree peep. Had one so I stuck it in and Presto! Magic!

I've seen this before, but with another person's bow. I had a Hoyt ProElite, 37 7/8" ata and 28 1/2" draw and the 37 degree peep perfect. Person had me shoot his 41 1/4" ata bow at the shop and when sighting there was this flat spot in the bottom of the peep and no matter how I held my head. Looked his peep and found he had a 37 degree peep. Installed correct angle peep and his problems went away....


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## cbrunson (Oct 25, 2010)

Such a simple and easy step to have early in your checklist that ensures consistent alignment. 

One of the problems you have when you start reaching out to safari shoot distances, is keeping that comfortable anchor point the same at 100 yards as it is at 20. Quite simply put, you can’t. You have to lower your release hand quite a bit if you are under 280 fps. It’s easy to catch yourself trying to keep your hand up and raising your head to try to see the pin through the peep, often settling low. If you keep your head/peep/housing alignment your main focus, the only thing left is putting the pin where you want the arrow to go. 

Once you ingrain that habit, it becomes less of a focal point in your process, and you can learn to trust it happening on its own. It does however become a very important self check when you are shooting on steep slopes, along with the bubble.


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## gsteve (Sep 5, 2016)

not sure i get it... would the scope not have to be centered to be consistent ?


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

cbrunson said:


> Such a simple and easy step to have early in your checklist that ensures consistent alignment.
> 
> One of the problems you have when you start reaching out to safari shoot distances, is keeping that comfortable anchor point the same at 100 yards as it is at 20. Quite simply put, you can’t. You have to lower your release hand quite a bit if you are under 280 fps. It’s easy to catch yourself trying to keep your hand up and raising your head to try to see the pin through the peep, often settling low. If you keep your head/peep/housing alignment your main focus, the only thing left is putting the pin where you want the arrow to go.
> 
> Once you ingrain that habit, it becomes less of a focal point in your process, and you can learn to trust it happening on its own. It does however become a very important self check when you are shooting on steep slopes, along with the bubble.


Stating that you simply have to change your Anchor Point from 20 to 100 is just untrue. I shoot from 20 yards all the way out to beyond a hundred yards my anchor doesn't change, only the site elevation changes. I have no idea exactly what my velocity is, but I do know that it's under 280 fps. 





gsteve said:


> not sure i get it... would the scope not have to be centered to be consistent ?


.

Scope centered or pin centered it doesn't matter as long as you pick one and stick with it and be consistent about your reference point. Personally I think it's easier to be consistent with using the scope housing to be aligned with the peep. Then your pins are adjusted as necessary for the relevant distance you're shooting. 

This is why I just use a single point aperture for my front sight. Adjust to the distance I need Center the aperture within the aperture the peep let the girl go... It always goes to the middle of my front sight


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## cbrunson (Oct 25, 2010)

Fury90flier said:


> Stating that you simply have to change your Anchor Point from 20 to 100 is just untrue. I shoot from 20 yards all the way out to beyond a hundred yards my anchor doesn't change, only the site elevation changes. I have no idea exactly what my velocity is, but I do know that it's under 280 fps.


Then you don’t realize it is moving. That or your pin is in the top of your peep at 20 and the bottom at 100, rather than the center. If your sight moves, something else has to move if your focus keeps everything centered. Your focus in the center of the peep is the pivot point.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

You could be right. Peep and string for my first anchor points... I really don't care what happens behind the string, that has very little value, so long as I pull straight behind the arrow. My Anchor Point goes by feeling. And it always feels that it's in the same place... Don't have any pictures to measure anything, maybe it's something I can do. What's important is that my front sight is centered within my peep and that I pivot it my waist


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## cbrunson (Oct 25, 2010)

Fury90flier said:


> You could be right. Peep and string for my first anchor points... I really don't care what happens behind the string, that has very little value, so long as I pull straight behind the arrow. My Anchor Point goes by feeling. And it always feels that it's in the same place... Don't have any pictures to measure anything, maybe it's something I can do. What's important is that my front sight is centered within my peep and that I pivot it my waist


It’s not important to know for sure if you are happy with the results you’re getting. In fact, I’d agree that keeping that focus up front is significantly more important than focusing on the release end. To steal another quote from Reo, “you can get away with a lot of stupid on the back end if your dot never leaves the middle.”


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

So now distance.....Said is adjusting peep height so there is a happy medium so that aiming and hitting dead on at 20 feet is just like aiming and hitting dead on at 80 yards. 

Learning to hit at all distances for me was something else, but I got there and then my own 80 yard target range. Once the peep was set I shot dead on, never believing I changed my anchor, just a tilt of my head - hand never moved from my anchor point.

Whoops. Forgot. I center the pin to my peep and let the pin become part of the picture, whether covering the X or stacking. My scope housing isn't there to see, not with a small peep. Rarely do I use a peep big enough to mate the housing to my peep. I've even used peeps big enough there is daylight all around the housing and shot well.......


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