# Mathews Switchback tuning?



## tmarch

Try a stiffer arrow or lighter points, my Switchback likes stiff arrows. I'm currently shooting 300 spine arrows cut to 27.5" with 100 grain tips at 70 pounds, a different setup, but way too stiff according to the charts & they fly great.


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## ice2ice

:thumbs_up I still have some 105 grain tips from my recurve arrows.. I'm gonna try this tomorrow. Thanks for the tip.. anyone else?? :thumbs_up


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## realmfg

I would have to agree I was told I am underspined and shooting left the same as your are.. New arrows on thier way.


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## ice2ice

Changed the inserts of the ACE's guess there's about 105gr. point in them.
Shot tru paper seems beter. First there was a big (about 3/4 inch) tear, now there's a smaller tear (about 1/4 inch). Can I adjust it with these arrow's or do I need to get some others?


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## dtrkyman

check your idler wheel and make sure its not leaning,this has been an issue with the switchback.


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## EsoxJohnny

The most important thing when setting up a Switchback or getting it to tune is your grip. This is the most grip sensitive bow I have ever shot. Be prepared to spend alot of time adjusting and perfecting your grip especially if you have big mitts. The guys that struggle the most with the SWB are the ones that are trying to tune the bow to accomodate the style of shooting they have always used. Unfortunately for many, they are going to have to adjust to the bow or it will show them no forgiveness. It doesn't matter how well your old grip has done for you in the past or how well it's worked on all your other bows, the SWB is a whole new game. High, low, left, right, this bow will throw everything at you and leave you very frustrated.


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## stehawk

ice2ice said:


> Hi, A few weeks ago I bought a Mathews Switchback for Field and Target shooting. I'm trying to tune my bow, but since it's my first compund ever, it's hard for me.
> 
> If I shoot at 10 Meters the arrows will fall left, and if I shoot about 50 Meters, the arrows fill right..
> 
> I'm shooting 30" ACE 400 with 125grain points. The weight of my bow is about 57 pounds. My drawlenght is 29.5" on my bow.
> 
> Any tips would be great!


Firsts question that comes to mind is --- are you using a release? If so, the arrow is not underspined. The first thing I'd try is adjusting my center shot. Go to the threads on here on walk back tuning and go from there. You don't need new equipment--- just tune what you got. :teeth: If that doesn't work --- get you a shoot through system and your worries will go away.


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## ice2ice

Yes, I'm shooting 2 releases at the moment to see what fit's me best.
1st is a Carter Insatiable 
2nd is a Carter Same Old Thing

I'm gonna look for the walk back tuning, if someone got a good link I would be glad with it  

Thanks for the help so far.


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## meyerske

I put together some notes on tuning a Switchback. There is no problem with the grip on the bow, it really comes down to setting the idler wheel lean for the way you grip the bow. These notes also include points on how to get max speed from a Switchback. Many guys have complained that the bow is not as fast as advertised...when it is simply that they do not have the bow set up properly. It is an awesome bow once things are set correctly. Hope this helps.

First off, you should only take set-up measurements with the limbs bottomed out (max poundage).

You really need a bow press for this next stuff as most dealers probably aren't willing to do it. I use a Bowmaster press and it works great. You must always back your limbs out 7 turns before pressing the Switchback. 

Your cam must be set to the proper rotation (when the bow is at rest). There are two tiny holes in the Cobra cam. These must line up to be parallel to the string. This is very important. You can do this measurement however you want. I take a long straight edge and eyeball it to the center of the two holes in the cam, then I measure the distance from the straight edge to the string at the top and bottom of the bow. I add or subtract twists (or half twists) to the cable until this alignment is achieved. Mark the cam with a pencil on both sides of the limb, so you can use these marks as a future reference. Remember, after you make a change, you must crank up the limbs before taking measurements.

You'll then need to adjust the string length (and possibly cable length) to get 33" ATA on the right hand side of the bow (side away from arrow). (This is assuming you are right handed). You want this to be pretty much dead-on. This should also get you a brace height of 7" (from center of riser hole to back of string). When you add or subtract twists to the string, add the same number to both ends of the string. For example, if you need to add two twists, add one to one end of the string and one to the other.

You'll need to balance out the string and cable lengths to achieve 33" ATA and at the same time have the cam in alignment. Be patient. Again, the 7" brace should come right in on its own.

Forget about the tiller. It is not important on this bow. Just max out both limbs and back them off the same amount when adjusting for poundage.

Now you have to paper tune your bow. Your center shot should be somewhere near 13/16" (center of arrow to side of riser near the riser hole. If you have to stray from this more than 1/16, you need to adjust the idler wheel lean. Lots of guys are having "unfixable" left arrow tears because the cam lean is not set properly. Take an arrow (preferably carbon) and place it flush on the left side of your idler wheel. As a starting point, the field tip on the arrow should point near the center of the string at your nocking point (initial nocking point is set where arrow is perpendicular to string when arrow is on your rest). My arrow tip ended up being about 1/4 inch to the right of the string (looking from bow string to riser), but it may be different for each person. You adjust the wheel lean by twisting or untwisting the left side of the cable yoke (that's why you only measure ATA on the right side).

After all of this is done, go back and make sure the ATA, brace height, and cam rotation are where they should be. 

This will take you a few days but the results are worth it. I had trouble with my string and/or cable stretching and I ended up doing all of this work numerous times until I replaced the string and cable with ones that didn't stretch! I spoke with Mathews about this and they insist that their Barracuda string doesn't stretch but that they've had problems with the cable stretching (different material than the string). They have addressed this problem by changing the way the cable is made, but if your string and cable should be broken-in at this point (say 50+ shots) but are still creeping, replace at least the cable with a VaporTrail or Winner's Choice cable.


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## EsoxJohnny

Tuning a bow and setting a bow to spec. are two different things. A bow should be in spec. before you start to tune anyway or you're probably not going to get it's best performance, that's a given. The frustration begins when you're bow is set to spec. and it still won't tune, because everybody says the same thing, "check your specs". I certainly wouldn't recommend adjusting the idler to match your grip. That's a perfect example of changing the bow to accomodate poor form, and it will likely only cause more problems. Take a look at the Making the Shot CD that comes with the bow and try imitate that grip as well as you can. It will do more to eliminate these tuning problems than you can believe and it will make you a better shooter with any bow period.


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## meyerske

EsoxJohnny said:


> Tuning a bow and setting a bow to spec. are two different things. A bow should be in spec. before you start to tune anyway or you're probably not going to get it's best performance, that's a given. The frustration begins when you're bow is set to spec. and it still won't tune, because everybody says the same thing, "check your specs". I certainly wouldn't recommend adjusting the idler to match your grip. That's a perfect example of changing the bow to accomodate poor form, and it will likely only cause more problems. Take a look at the Making the Shot CD that comes with the bow and try imitate that grip as well as you can. It will do more to eliminate these tuning problems than you can believe and it will make you a better shooter with any bow period.


Yes, tuning a bow and setting it to spec are two different, but related, things.

Even Mathews agrees that the idler must be set to properly feed the string. I do not torque the bow and the information I've provided assumes the same. You are assuming that the idler lean is set properly at the factory and for my bow it wasn't. When I set it correctly, it tuned fine and is not sensitive to torque any more than any other bow I own. 

I've not changed a thing in my shooting form and the bow shoots great...once it was set up properly! No one should change their form to suit a bow.


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## acc328

meyerske,very good setup and tuning information


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## EsoxJohnny

I'm assuming the original poster has made sure the bow is in spec. and idler is straight. If not then he's not even at the point to determine if it 's a tuning problem. That given, and all attempts to tune the bow by rest or knock fail, you are left with either an arrow problem or a grip problem. In my experience with 5 others guys that had the same problem it was the way they gripped the bow. Some people do it perfect naturally, and some people have to work at it, what worked for them on the LX, or Outback, didn't work as well on the SWB. I've talked to 2 techs at 2 different Mathews dealers and both advised against adding lean to the idler to account for torque.


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## meyerske

EsoxJohnny said:


> I've talked to 2 techs at 2 different Mathews dealers and both advised against adding lean to the idler to account for torque.


It is not to account for torque. It is to allow the string to feed into the idler correctly when the bow is held properly without torque at full draw. Mathews has no criteria for proper string feed other than a visual inspection while the bow is at full draw in a jig. No measurements are taken. They don't know how much or how little the idler is leaning other than a visual. They don't even measure both sides of the limbs for ATA length, only one side (if I recall correctly they measure the left side). 

Some of the advice I gave came from the Mathews factory, some from Mathews experts, and some from my experience. The information is correct and it works. You can choose to ignore it if you want. 

Change how you grip the bow if that's what you want to do. Whatever works for you.:beer:


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## EsoxJohnny

"There is no problem with the grip on the bow, it really comes down to setting the idler wheel lean for the way you grip the bow."

I'm sorry, I took this as you saying to adjust the idler wheel to counter-act the effect someone's grip has on the bow. You are correct there is not a set criteria for making sure the idler is straight other than eye-balling it, and if the idler is leaning it will cause problems, you're right. But I think you are missing my point. Take into consideration that the bow has been put into spec. just as you have outlined how to do. The cam is in proper rotation, the ata is correct, brace height is correct and you have eliminated any idler lean. You are now trying to paper tune the bow but with no success. You are either getting a consistent tear that will not go away by adjusting the rest or the nock or you have a random tear, up and down, left and right. This is important because this is one of the biggest complaints with the SWB, specs are in but it won't tune, and it's the source for alot of these threads. What would you recommend at this point? If you have a perfect grip it's easy to say the SWB isn't grip sensitive. I've owned 2 other Mathews before and never had a problem with torque until I got the SWB, same thing for 5 others guys I shoot with. Techs at 2 different shops I go to say the SWB can be grip sensitive and they've seen guys struggle to tune their bows. I'm just trying to give someone help on a problem I've had experience with and a problem I've seen solved.


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## meyerske

EsoxJohnny said:


> The cam is in proper rotation, the ata is correct, brace height is correct and you have eliminated any idler lean. You are now trying to paper tune the bow but with no success. You are either getting a consistent tear that will not go away by adjusting the rest or the nock or you have a random tear, up and down, left and right.


For troubleshooting purposes only, put a thin cotton glove on your bow hand to help eliminate any torque you may be applying to the grip. If you are still getting a consistent left or right tear, then the idler is not set right. We are not trying to eliminate idler lean, we are trying to set idler lean.

If you are getting results that are random, then it is the shooter at fault. The Switchback "problems" have been left/right tears with bows that are not set up properly. I fault Mathews and/or the dealers for not understanding/communicating the set up info to their customers. 

Again, this is all assuming you are using properly spined arrows that are getting good fletching clearance. I would also recommend shooting with a string loop (as with any bow).

I just haven't seen any shooter-form sensitivity issues with the Switchback. Doesn't mean that it isn't happening, I just haven't seen it.

Good shooting.


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## EsoxJohnny

"We are not trying to eliminate idler lean, we are trying to set idler lean."

That's interesting, I've never heard it put that way before. Now I have questions on this because I was told that unless it appears to be leaning then the idler is fine and doesn't need adjusted. Basically there was no need to touch it unless there was noticable lean. Are you saying that the idler can appear straight but still not be set properly? How much can you adjust it before it starts to have a noticable lean.


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## meyerske

EsoxJohnny said:


> "We are not trying to eliminate idler lean, we are trying to set idler lean."
> 
> That's interesting, I've never heard it put that way before. Now I have questions on this because I was told that unless it appears to be leaning then the idler is fine and doesn't need adjusted. Basically there was no need to touch it unless there was noticeable lean. Are you saying that the idler can appear straight but still not be set properly? How much can you adjust it before it starts to have a noticeable lean.


Yes, I am saying that exactly. A few twists on one side of the yoke can make a big difference in how the arrow leaves the bow. The dealers look at the wheel and say "yep, looks good to me". They have no idea how much the idler is or is not leaning. That's why I'm saying you should use an arrow placed flush along side the idler and compare the field point tip to the string location at the nock point to measure lean. Adjustments that I'm talking about are not noticeable by eye.

If you are getting a consistent tear, right or left, try what I've explained:

Place an arrow (preferably carbon) flush against the idler with the arrow tip pointing down toward the cam. At the nocking point, look where the tip of the arrow is. As a starting point, it should be near the center of the string (yes, this means the idler will have a slight, undetectable-to-the-eye, lean to it). If you are still getting a horizontal tear with the idler set here and the arrow centershot set at 13/16", then you need to start twisting one side of the yoke or the other (depending on the tear direction) until the tear goes away (or gets close to going away and then centershot can be adjusted slightly). Should be just a few twists.

The tip of my arrow when the arrow is flush with the idler wheel is pointing about 1/4 inch to the right of my string at my nocking point. There is no noticeable idler lean.

Understand that with the bow perfectly vertical, by design, the string is not perfectly vertical because the idler (and the string on the idler) is centered on its axle but where the string leaves the cam is not centered on the axle. It is offset slightly.

:thumbs_up


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## ssssssnake

Meyerske

I guess I don't understand all I know about this leaning business. Why does the idler wheel need to lean at all? It seems like any lean at all would have the string running off it at an angle. The wheel edges on the Switchback are dang sharp! It seems like even just a tad would lead to string wear and it wouldn't take much to cut it.

Maybe you shouldn't tell me because I am blissfully ignorant and my SWB is shooting bulletholes right out of the box. I took the measurements on AtoA and looked at the cam holes when I got it. I did tweek the cable to correct a mini-wheel lean and bingo. It does not seem to be overly succeptable to hand torque but the STS system even worked on that.

If its gonna make me crazy then don't tell me  My wife will hate you for it  

SSSSSssssssssnake and the idler for dummies


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## meyerske

ssssssnake said:


> Meyerske
> 
> I guess I don't understand all I know about this leaning business. Why does the idler wheel need to lean at all? It seems like any lean at all would have the string running off it at an angle. The wheel edges on the Switchback are dang sharp! It seems like even just a tad would lead to string wear and it wouldn't take much to cut it.
> 
> Maybe you shouldn't tell me because I am blissfully ignorant and my SWB is shooting bulletholes right out of the box. I took the measurements on AtoA and looked at the cam holes when I got it. I did tweek the cable to correct a mini-wheel lean and bingo. It does not seem to be overly succeptable to hand torque but the STS system even worked on that.
> 
> If its gonna make me crazy then don't tell me  My wife will hate you for it
> 
> SSSSSssssssssnake and the idler for dummies


If it is shooting bullet holes, don't touch a thing!


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## GMM

I agree with myereske, idler lean can give a person a bunch of problems. I have ran into this more than once on ALL bows with a split yoke. I even had it happen on my outback. When I first got it and was setting it up and tuning it, it went fast, I just set it for bullet holes and went to shoot it a few hundred times, knowing I would have to bring everything back into spec after the string and cable quit creeping. While setting up I looked at my idler and my string tracked perfectly off it. I shot it enough to set my sights then started shooting more without changing my sights. After about 200 or so more shots my arrows were grouping left, so I looked at my idler, my string was now tracking off to the right side (left yoke had more creep than right). I shot about one more hour, without adjusting sights, then checked paper again, I had a left tear, I never changed the way I gripped or anchor point or rest or anything, I just shot. I checked specs my ATA was 1/8" long, my cam was close, so I set it to spec. I pulled my bow, and I still had the string tracking right. 

Can you guess what I did, I corrected my idler lean, and guess what, back to bullet holes, I didnt even have to resight in my bow. Then I group tuned and now I have 1 1/2" to 2" groups at 40 yards and my bow hasnt had any problems since.

This is true with all bows that has a split yoke, the string MUST track straight between cam and idler, both cams, or wheels. Correcting lean will make serving and string around the wheel last longer, make bow more forgiving, less hand shock, and make the bow quieter. Think of it like a car, would you want one of the pulleys that your belt runs on leaning? I know I dont, I know for a fact that the belt wont last long with a lean to it.

Idler lean is not meant to correct a form issue though. If you are correctly gripping the bow, and have checked everything else, check lean.

GMM


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## BagginBigguns

meyerske said:


> If you are getting a consistent tear, right or left, try what I've explained:
> 
> Place an arrow (preferably carbon) flush against the idler with the arrow tip pointing down toward the cam. At the nocking point, look where the tip of the arrow is. As a starting point, it should be near the center of the string (yes, this means the idler will have a slight, undetectable-to-the-eye, lean to it). If you are still getting a horizontal tear with the idler set here and the arrow centershot set at 13/16", then you need to start twisting one side of the yoke or the other (depending on the tear direction) until the tear goes away (or gets close to going away and then centershot can be adjusted slightly). Should be just a few twists.
> 
> The tip of my arrow when the arrow is flush with the idler wheel is pointing about 1/4 inch to the right of my string at my nocking point. There is no noticeable idler lean.
> 
> Understand that with the bow perfectly vertical, by design, the string is not perfectly vertical because the idler (and the string on the idler) is centered on its axle but where the string leaves the cam is not centered on the axle. It is offset slightly.
> 
> :thumbs_up


I have a Switchback and would like to experiment with this technique. Which side of the idler are you placing the arrow when checking the idler lean with respect to your nocking point? The way I'm interpretting your explanation is that you've placed an arrow on the right side of your idler, and the arrow (and hence the idler) tilts in a slightly counter-clockwise position, leaving the tip of the arrow 1/4" to the right of your nocking point. I just want to make sure I'm understanding correctly.

Also, what is the correlation between direction of idler lean and direction of paper tear? If I have a left tear, which way would I lean the idler to correct the tear (assuming all other bow/arrow specs are correctly set)? I suppose my own trial and error would reveal the correlation, but if you already know, I'm interested in knowing as well.

One more question --> Since this technique is basically fine-tuning the lean of the idler, do you recommend a fixed yoke cable instead of a floating yoke, since a floating yoke would not allow for adjusting idler lean?

Thanks for the information you've already provided. It makes good sense. :teeth:


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## meyerske

BagginBigguns said:


> I have a Switchback and would like to experiment with this technique. Which side of the idler are you placing the arrow when checking the idler lean with respect to your nocking point? The way I'm interpretting your explanation is that you've placed an arrow on the right side of your idler, and the arrow (and hence the idler) tilts in a slightly counter-clockwise position, leaving the tip of the arrow 1/4" to the right of your nocking point. I just want to make sure I'm understanding correctly.
> 
> Also, what is the correlation between direction of idler lean and direction of paper tear? If I have a left tear, which way would I lean the idler to correct the tear (assuming all other bow/arrow specs are correctly set)? I suppose my own trial and error would reveal the correlation, but if you already know, I'm interested in knowing as well.
> 
> One more question --> Since this technique is basically fine-tuning the lean of the idler, do you recommend a fixed yoke cable instead of a floating yoke, since a floating yoke would not allow for adjusting idler lean?
> 
> Thanks for the information you've already provided. It makes good sense. :teeth:


Looking from behind the string of a right hand bow - place the arrow on the left side (arrow rest side) of the idler. Top of idler will have a very slight lean to the left of centerline and bottom of idler will lean to the right.

To get rid of a tail-left arrow you should twist the left side of the yoke, causing the top of the idler to lean to the left (can't really see the lean though). Just a few twists should do it. Again, try and start idler alignment with your arrow point on line with the sting and work from there.

Correct, you would not be able to adjust idler lean with a floating yoke.


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## cgchris99

I would love to know what types of rests you all are using on these bows.
The ones that seem to have the most trouble are drop aways.

Thanks for any info


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## cgchris99

Has anyone tried putting a floating yoke on their switchback. Seems like this would quickly solve this problem of idler tuning.


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## 2thepoint

*floating yoke*

Chris, 
About two months ago Mike Carter (Crackers) installed a floating yoke on my Switchback and it hasn't been in the press since I got it back!! It's smooth, quiet, and IMO shoots much better than before I sent it. Then again Mike knows what he's doing! :smile: :smile:


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## cgchris99

2thepoint, what type of rest are you shooting on it?


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## ex-wolverine

*ttt one more time*

Has anyone tried the CAM lean theory on the Switchback??? I have had MZE and a TT on mine and cant get the left tear out...I put my Bisquit back on and I get perfect bullet holes

And I thought the WB was more torque prone???


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## Rabbit

*meyerske...*

Thank you for all the information. When I spoke to the tech from Mathewes he basically said the same thing but not in so much detail. 

The new XT has the same issues, buyt naw I'm not worried about buying one.

Thanks again,

Rabbit


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## ex-wolverine

*ttt one more time*

Anybody else get this proceedure to work???


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## meyerske

ex-wolverine said:


> Anybody else get this proceedure to work???


You bet, it works!


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## ex-wolverine

*So in essence..I twist the left yoke cabel until I get the tear out??*



meyerske said:


> You bet, it works!


I know I will see "form" responses on here but I can tell you that I get bullet holes with the bisquit on my SB, Bullet holes on my Hoyt with the TT and WB...

Thanks

meyerske I will give it a whirl...If it works I might have to get me a MZE again

Tom


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## storyteller_usa

*Switchback timing..*

I went back and set mine up today. The axle to axle is off by 1/32" still. Cam timing and brace height is right on the mark. I put 4 twist in the left hand side of the yoke on the cable to get the cam inline with the string with the bare shaft and tip.
Bow maxed out at 72 lbs. I had a left tear before I started and still have a slight left tear at 8 feet after setting everything back to spec. Backed out to 10 yards, 20 yards and getting a perfect bullet hole in the paper.

Shooting 65 lbs , carbon express maxima 350's, 27 1/2" with a 100 tip. Total arrow weight = 374 gr. I also checked the cam at full draw and it is straight inline with the string. 
Leave it along or need to tweek on it somemore?????????


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## ex-wolverine

*what about puttimg twist in the limbs...that cant be good*

what do you think


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## storyteller_usa

I've went to Mathews web sight and read some post on here with the same trouble.I'm going with what the techs from Mathews recommend. Looks like it will work out just fine. I may be underspined just a little. Need some help?????????? 8 FEET LEFT TEAR!!!!!!!!
10,20,30 yards getting a perfect bullet hole with fletched arrows. Bare shaft arrows only a slight rear at the same distance with the maxima 350's


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## storyteller_usa

ttt^^^^^^^^


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## meyerske

ex-wolverine said:


> what do you think


Mathews only measures ATA on one side of the bow. ATA will not be the same on both sides (this means the limbs have some twist in them and that it is OK). You should have a bullet hole when you are CLOSE to the paper when properly tuned.


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## Guest

storyteller_usa said:


> I went back and set mine up today. The axle to axle is off by 1/32" still. Cam timing and brace height is right on the mark. I put 4 twist in the left hand side of the yoke on the cable to get the cam inline with the string with the bare shaft and tip.
> Bow maxed out at 72 lbs. I had a left tear before I started and still have a slight left tear at 8 feet after setting everything back to spec. Backed out to 10 yards, 20 yards and getting a perfect bullet hole in the paper.
> 
> Shooting 65 lbs , carbon express maxima 350's, 27 1/2" with a 100 tip. Total arrow weight = 374 gr. I also checked the cam at full draw and it is straight inline with the string.
> *Leave it along or need to tweek on it somemore*?????????


Hey Steve, I'd leave it alone if it is shooting bullet holes from 10yd all the way back to 20+ yds. Your arrrow is fly perfectly straight. Paper tuning is no more than just a *Starting* point for the actual tuning process. Unless you plan on entering a Bullet Hole shooting contest where the distance is exactly 8ft  , you have abosolutely nothing to worry about. 

I set up my Switchback just like I have set up every other Mathews bow that I've ever owned and it will shoot a Broadhead and a Field Point and a Bare Shaft all into the same spot at 20 yd. 

Matter of fact, when I tried all three arrows I shot the field point first and then I shot the arrow with the Broadhead on it, the broadhead sliced a vane off of the arrow with the field point. I then shot the Bare Shaft and it punched a hole in the vane of the arrow that had the broadhead on it. 

If I had known about all this cam lean stuff I might have had a triple RobinHood.  :teeth:


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## juano2001

Preacher said:


> If I had known about all this cam lean stuff I might have had a triple RobinHood.  :teeth:


AKA William Tell


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## ice2ice

meyerske said:


> This should also get you a brace height of 7" (from center of riser hole to back of string). When you add or subtract twists to the string, add the same number to both ends of the string. For example, if you need to add two twists, add one to one end of the string and one to the other.
> 
> You'll need to balance out the string and cable lengths to achieve 33" ATA and at the same time have the cam in alignment. Be patient. Again, the 7" brace should come right in on its own.


I'm stuck on a BH at 6 7/8".. I can't get it on the 7" 
I've been trying for 3 hours today, without any luck... 

Any advice would be welcome :wink:


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## ice2ice

Just two more questions.. 

-I shoot Fatboy's for Indoor competition, how much should my nockingpoint be for these arrows. I shoot with a D-loop on my string.

-And how much should the opening be from pocket to string on top and bottom? Again.. I shoot with a D-loop.

Thanks..


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## deerking

*deerking*

 picked up a mathews switchback to day my first .
mathews bow shoots good but cam is wearing severing can 
anyone help with this


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## storyteller_usa

Contact Bucknasty here on this sight. He can fix you up with a cable and string for the bow that will last...



deerking said:


> picked up a mathews switchback to day my first .
> mathews bow shoots good but cam is wearing severing can
> anyone help with this


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## Houston

*Good info on this thread*

Ttt


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