# DIY Quickpod Bipod-stand - Anyone?



## digitalhavok (Jul 4, 2013)

Hi!

I was wondering if anyone here has attempted to Build a Bi-pod quick stand for their bow? I've seen them available for $45.00 shipped, but there isn't much in terms of variety. And since I'm someone that likes a lot of custom stuff, Id like to see if anyone has made one, in the hopes that some detailed fabrication info could be shared.

Thanks for the help in advance!

-Joe


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

I've posted this a bunch of times but it has never taken off. Which is funny because when people see it at shoots and stuff they always ask me to make them one. Go figure... 
It simply bolts onto the riser (Martin riser) and because it doesn't interfere with the limbs you never have to take it off. At least once in every tournament I see someone try to shoot their bow with those plastic things stuck to their limbs. Enjoy!


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## bakecm (Aug 15, 2011)

That is awesome!


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## digitalhavok (Jul 4, 2013)

b0w bender: That looks awesome. Do you have access to some milling machinery or something?


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## digitalhavok (Jul 4, 2013)

This was what I was looking at online -

http://pse-archery.com/p/pse-vibracheck-quickstand-bipod?pp=12

I'm pretty tempted to just buy it considering I have no access to milling machines..


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## PaulME (Jun 11, 2014)

You don't need a milling machine for that - nothing needs to be that precise. A mill would make some steps easier. Slice off a piece of round Aluminum stock (square or hex would work as well) drill holes for the legs - use old arrows, draveway markers etc. You can glue them in, threaded would be more complicated but allow you to take them off easier, or set screws. Friction fit would probably work as well but they may fall out from vibration when you shoot.

Where in central MA are you - I have equipment to make stuff.

Paul


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## digitalhavok (Jul 4, 2013)

Paul - I'm located in Oxford

I just figured having that type of machinery would allow me to have a much nicer, quality looking Bi-pod stand.

Where are you located?


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## PaulME (Jun 11, 2014)

I'm in Upton we are close.
Send me an email (I think you should be able to, if not send a PM). If you keep it simple I can knock something out for you as it looks like the main part will just be a piece of aluminum. Arrow shafts may be the best for the legs (assuming you have spares - especially as threaded inserts for them are a standard item).

Ever go to Carl's Oxford Dinner?

Paul


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## digitalhavok (Jul 4, 2013)

Paul -

I can try to come up with with a basic idea. I'm more or less looking for something that I could possibly attach where the stabilizer attaches, and then have the stabilizer attach on top of it. As I think that would give it the best look as well.

I certainly have plenty of arrows. Honestly, I would like to use Aluminum arrows as I think they would provide the best stability being a better arrow. Would you agree?

As for Carls, yes. I like < 30 seconds from their, and I occasionally take my wife and sons there. Only problem with that place is you have to get there super early, or its a 45 min line out the door. And standing there in line smelling freshly cooked bacon is torture!!!

Thanks so much for being kind enough to help me out. I really appreciate it.

Btw. Do you shoot any 3D in the area? I'm constantly going, and I'm a member at (2) clubs somewhat in the area.

Thanks again!

Joe


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## PaulME (Jun 11, 2014)

Hi Joe,

I will send you a PM. I can think of a lot of ways to make the part. How long is the threaded stud in your stabilizer (that can be used to hold it in place), and possibly mill a slot to lock in the orientation on your bow. Otherwise, it gets longer as it would need a stud to screw into the riser and be long enough to accept the stud on your stabilizer - plus needs to hold orientation so the legs are pointed in the correct direction.

We don't need CAD for any of this - sketches will do but I will need some dimensions. We can work all that out via email.

Carls is great if your trying to get your cholesterol up to 5000, get there a few times a year. I was there years ago and I remember them commenting that they had gotten mentioned in the press and there were lines out the door - regulars waiting in line. They closed down for a bit to get rid of the lines.

I'm new to archery (well did some when I was a kid - usual cheap fiberglass one piece bow) but have had a peripheral interest for years.
My son did did the archery merit badge last year at treasure valley but did not get the qualifying score. So we picked up a couple basic recurve takedown bows (Samick Polaris and a similar W&W) currently shooting in the yard and looking for clubs and ranges. Interest is in target, and I can see getting into Olympic style bows. For now just trying to learn to shoot OK instinctive, get some basics down before adding hardware.

I find it interesting to read the comments on olympic style risers - the cheaper lower end ~$250 vs the mid and high end $5-800. I learned my lesson on hardware when I first started bicycle racing years ago, got wipped in my first race, figured if I only had a good bike that would make a difference. So I worked and saved for a year got a top of the line bike 531 tubing Campy nuvo record components, silk tires (this dates me) still got wipped. Oh maybe I need to train.... Put in the training an got fairly good. I've seen the same thing in other sports, and autocross - Porsche owners in particular. My comparison on risers would be the same - the olympic medalists would still be getting high scores on a lower end riser, maybe not the same but you need to get very good before the equipment is the limiting factor. The cost of this stuff is "relatively" affordable so most adults can go out and buy the best whether it makes any difference or not.
Of course I recognize the psychological aspect can make quite a difference, and if you can afford the toys why not. At least I have yet to see any references to aluminum risers going "soft" over time - myth and lore in the bicycle world.

Enough rambling.

Paul


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## Tunaboy (Oct 3, 2004)

Hey there is a DYI on how to do a simple version of this here at AT. Do a search on Bowstix. I have made 4 of these. They work great for ground hunting and I like them on the range as well.


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

couple threads to look at ... stab attached bowstix threads as referenced by TunaBoy

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2236060&highlight=Bowstix
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1988550&highlight=Bowstix
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2246415&highlight=Bowstix


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## digitalhavok (Jul 4, 2013)

PaulME - I'll run out shortly and grab all the measurements of the Stabilizer. I really appreciate all your help on this. Honestly, I think if something could be made where the stabilizer screws in through this, sort of like a wrist sling, and its big enough to have (2) threaded opening for the aluminum shafts to come up to act as the legs, that will be perfect..

Now... Back to Carl's.. So yeah, you had to mention Carl's to me..... I ended up taking my son there this morning because I couldn't stop thinking about it this morning, lol.

As for biking, I always thought about getting into it, but I don't have the greatest back anymore. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be so good for me over a period of time. My wife just picked upa cheaper bike to start riding. She's currently training for a Triathlon, which I think is great, but eventually she's going to need a higher quality bike, but we'll see how this all goes as she's still really new to it.

I'm going to PM you my Email address so that we can correspond that way.

Thanks again!

Joe


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

digitalhavok said:


> b0w bender: That looks awesome. Do you have access to some milling machinery or something?


I do have one of those mini milling machine but frankly most of it was done with the Bandsaw, drill press and belt sander. The only place I used the mill what the end where it fits into a slot on the marting threaded insert. The slot keeps it from spinning. I'm pretty sure Hoyt has something similar with a triangular hole on their risers for mounting quivers and stuff. 

I've since revised it a bit knocked off the edges so it doesn't look quite so blocky but the idea remains the same.

Here is a link to the bowsticks threads.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2236060&highlight=Bowsticks


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## digitalhavok (Jul 4, 2013)

b0w bender:

That's perfect. I needed to look at a few more designs to get some ideas. That's pretty simple looking. Thanks for sharing with me, sir!
Joe


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## hunt the south (Aug 4, 2013)

i made one using some old arrow shafts a coat hanger and some hot glue
ill get a picture up later


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

hunt the south said:


> i made one using some old arrow shafts a coat hanger and some hot glue
> ill get a picture up later


Coat hanger and some hot glue, now that sounds like something fun and something I gotta see.


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## hunt the south (Aug 4, 2013)

here we go


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## PaulME (Jun 11, 2014)

Started making an aluminum fitting that will do the job for digitalhavoc. I will post a pic or two once it is done, Joe will have to post a pic of it on his bow as I don't have a compound bow with stab. Hope to have it done tomorrow if I get some time in the shop.

Paul


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## PaulME (Jun 11, 2014)

So here is what I came up with. Made from 1 3/8" dia 6061 round stock






Slot should align it to the riser. Have to wait till I get it to Joe to see how it works on the real thing.

Paul


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

that is fantastic I love it!


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## CJC98 (Feb 6, 2014)




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## GGFerrier (Feb 13, 2012)

Here's my take on it... Most expensive part was the plasti dip from Lowes at $6.50.


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## digitalhavok (Jul 4, 2013)

Hey everyone! So about 6 weeks or so, I went ahead and put forth this thread to gauge some ideas on DIY Bowstands. PaulME was kind enough to reach out to me in private message and gauge what it was that I was looking for. After talking to Paul, I had found out that he has an engineering background, and has some serious machinery in his shop where he can basically fabricate anything he wants, which is pretty cool to begin with.

I provided him with as much information I could with the bow i have, which is a Bowtech Fuel, an he put forth a custom piece he felt would work out for my bow. It required some alterations, but honestly I felt that it come out pretty good. I'm still in my infancy stages of being an Archer, and so is Paul, so I wanted to provide some pictures of what the end result was, in hopes that everyone could respond back and provide some feedback on how this came out. Positive or Negative is just fine. We're trying to obtain some suggestions that would make this as universal as possible, because as well know, not all compound bows have the same structure.

Attached are the pictures I have taken. Let us know what you think!

http://imgur.com/a/dVgw4/all

Also - If you have any machinery questions, PaulME is certainly the person to speak with. Super nice man, and he came out of the woodwork and helped me out with this when he didn't have too. This is certainly one of the biggest things about this website I enjoy the most as peoples willingness to help complete strangers out. So once again PaulME, thanks again for all of your help. You're a complete and total gentlemen.


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## digitalhavok (Jul 4, 2013)

bump for thoughts?


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## BowtechGuard (Sep 16, 2014)

I know this is old but any chance Paul is still making any of these?


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## brad canton (Feb 4, 2010)

Thats a great piece of kit right there


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## Tunaboy (Oct 3, 2004)

The other posting on these have a better, easier design for the average guy to make.


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## PaulME (Jun 11, 2014)

I'm still around, just to many things going on. I could make another one, the problem with that design is it takes multiple set ups so on all manual machines I'm killing a couple hours setting up to make one (cut and face on lathe, flatten one side slightly so I can index it, cut the slot, drill, take it out and flip it over.... last operations are nodding and angling the head of the Bridge port twice to get both angle. I actually should have a tilting rotary table shipping to me if the shipping company can find it (say it was mislabeled but seems like they have no clue to where it is).

Anyway - thought of another design that should simplify set ups greatly. Start with a ~ 1" dia aluminum bar stock, mill slot, flop it over and bore for stab, then the mounts for the legs would go through the CL of the bar, simpler rotation of the bar in a vise vs nodding the head.

Shoot me an email (I think me email is accessible by clicking on my name upper left of post) - I can send a sketch.
Paul


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