# Stripped Allen Head Screw



## bocefus78 (Jul 25, 2006)

get an easy out....they are about 3 bucks at lowes, home cheapo, etc......works like a charm


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## CHAMPION2 (May 6, 2004)

Will this work even if I have rounded out the hex head with a drill trying to remove it. Basically just a big crater.



bocefus78 said:


> get an easy out....they are about 3 bucks at lowes, home cheapo, etc......works like a charm


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## Donhudd (Sep 21, 2002)

get a drill bit slightly larger than the threaded portion of the screw. Drill in the center of the head and the head will pop off the screw. Remove the quiver and use visegrip pliers on the exposed screw.


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## CHAMPION2 (May 6, 2004)

Thanks donhudd thats what I was thinking. Thinking that may be my only option. 



Donhudd said:


> get a drill bit slightly larger than the threaded portion of the screw. Drill in the center of the head and the head will pop off the screw. Remove the quiver and use visegrip pliers on the exposed screw.


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## Deezlin (Feb 5, 2004)

Sears makes some removal tools for this. You should also use a drill press or mill to provide good uniform pressure.


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## bocefus78 (Jul 25, 2006)

The easy out will also work....it comes with (or at least states the one needed) the correct sized drill bit for the ez out tool itself. drill press is a good idea.....all of the above ideas will work....good luck


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## MikeE (May 17, 2003)

Just another opinon here:

While using the slighlty oversize drill to get rid of the bolt head is a decent approach - personally I'd pass on this one, particularly if you're drilling it freehand. I'd fear going just a might to far and messing up the threads you're trying to save. (but than I can be a clutz sometimes)

I've also found it safer when drilling the for the easy-out, to start w/ a drill bit a couple sizes smaller than needed. I don't have a drill press so by doing this I've can see if I'm drilling a reasonably centered hole before committing to the proper size bit for the easy-out.

And this might not be applicable for you but:
Heat has always helped me w/ frozen nuts and bolts. When the metal gets warm/hot it expands and the diameter of the threaded hole gets just a might bigger to help get the frozen bolt out. In your case, obviously a torch is outa the question, but maybe a heat lamp or carefully with the tip of a soldering iron apply to the allen head to warm up it


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## AKDoug (Aug 27, 2003)

The one I use all the time is the Grab-It screw extactor. Available from any True-Value store, Sku# 838-554, if they don't stock it they should be able to order it. Every bow shop should have a couple on hand.


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## joaxe (Sep 7, 2006)

Archery Peeps,

I just had the same thing happen to my Mathews Arrow Web quiver. One of the bolts attaching the arrow insert to the frame didn't budge! I tried using Sears' Screw Extractor - no go! It only wore a "crater" in the middle of the bolt. I had to break out the ol' Dremel and cut a notch in the head of the bolt and use a screwdriver and locking pliers to get it out. What a PITA!

Maybe you could try "donhudd"'s suggestion and cut a small slot in the remaining screw shaft after you've removed the quiver frame. Then just use a good screwdriver...

Joe


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## 963369 (Nov 15, 2003)

I know this is closing the barn door WAY to late...but, after a real nutbuster of a time I had with a recessed full head stripping out(they *always* use allen heads way too undersized)..a guy gave me some sage advice. He said, "anything they build, assume it was put together by someone with a fifth of scotch in the desk drawer. Remove the bolts when the bow or accessories are new/young, and wax the SNOT out of the threads and reassemble." While wax is really good, there are TWO products which have no odor which everyone should have at home: CRC's FOOD GRADE silicone in a green & white can---this can & will bust loose rusted and seized nuts. For assembly, I recommend a silvery grease called NEVER SEIZE...use this so sparingly that when applied you almost think it is not enough....usually it is much more than you'll need. End of stripping problems, except when you run out of one dollar bills :wink: :zip: ......


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## Buksknr53 (Mar 30, 2006)

I stripped the bolt that attaches the rest to my bow once. I tried the easy out method, but the drill bit that came with it broke. Cheap piece of crap! I next tried cutting a slot in the bolt head to try a screw driver. Didn't work either. I finally managed to use a flat jawed pair of vise grips to lock onto the head of the bolt and got the bolt out.
Waxing the threads seem to work. Overtightening the bolts when attaching accessories will definately lead to problems down the road when it's time to remove them.


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## AKDoug (Aug 27, 2003)

The best solution I have found to keep bolts from stripping in archery equipment is blue loctite and lots of it. The problem is two fold. First the screws are always into aluminum. The two dissimilar metals will corode together over time. The second is the use of counter sunk screws. The counter sunk screw has lots of surface to grap the aluminum and not let go. That's why 90% of the time when you drill off the head of the stuck screw the rest of it just threads right out.

Blue loctite, used to coat the WHOLE screw will alleviate these problems. Contrary to popular belief, blue loctite will not make a screw stitch. Yes, there are other types of loctite that will glue screws in, but not blue.


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## Dartagnan (Sep 23, 2006)

Find a torx bit (it looks like a multy point star)thats just a bit bigger than the allen key.Tap it into placewith a hammer it will cut the points into the steel.Put a wrench on it and try turning.If it dosent want to still come out try turning while taping on the end of the torx bit.It should come out.


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## CHAMPION2 (May 6, 2004)

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I tried donhudds approach and used a drill bit one size larger, and drilled out the hex head and it poped off exposing the thread and removed the screw with a needle nose plier. Worked great! Thanks


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## Deezlin (Feb 5, 2004)

CHAMPION2 said:


> Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I tried donhudds approach and used a drill bit one size larger, and drilled out the hex head and it poped off exposing the thread and removed the screw with a needle nose plier. Worked great! Thanks


Glad to hear you solve your problem.


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