# Arizona EZ Fletch Mini Fletching Jig (First Try Questions)



## jskwon22 (Dec 27, 2016)

Hello,

I've ventured in to trying to fletch my first arrows and purchased an EZ Fletching jig from LAS new. Wanted to get some advice/experiences from you all as I've read that this is the jig to use (especially for first-timers like me).

I'm fletching some used Carbon Impact Super Club arrows using AAE WAV vanes using the Mini fletching jig and I first have a question, the jig arms appear to close unevenly around the arrow when I release the spring to close the arms and I have to adjust the shaft and legs to close correctly around the shaft. 

I watched the LAS video along with other YouTube videos and it doesn't seem to have the same issue. Not sure if it's an alignment issue with the jig I have or just my handling). I tried with a few arrows and they all seem misaligned at first and I have to manually adjust the arms around the arrow shaft to get it right and slip on the cap. Once complete, the vanes do attach but not evenly (requires some manual adjustment of the vane ends closest to the nock). This is likely because of my issues initially closing the arms around the shaft if I were to venture a guess. So, it ends up a little messier than I'd expect it to be and the vanes don't sit evenly against the shaft. Fail. I know this requires some practice, so I will try a few more before considering anything wrong with the jig itself.

The other issue (more importantly) I'm seeing is the vanes are being attached much further away from the nock than I would expect (or when compared to other fletched arrows I have which are around 1") .. These seem to fletch around +1.5" which seems abnormally far. Is this correct? There doesn't appear to be any adjustment to reducing the distance between the nock and end of vanes that I see in the instructions or can do. I'm just slipping the shaft (nock inserted) in to the hole and slipping it in to the slot so that the nock fits. Maybe I just have the wrong jig for my arrows? Not sure. Any guidance would be appreciated! 

Here's a link to the jig I purchased: http://www.lancasterarchery.com/arizona-ez-fletch-mini-fletching-jig.html

Thanks!

Joe.


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## Robert43 (Aug 2, 2004)

I own this fletching jig & have fletched Micro shafts like Easton Carbon one Easton Lightspeed & Easton FatBoys with no problems


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## Elmosaurus (Sep 15, 2010)

Fletching in general requires practice. How much glue to really apply, how much force to use, etc. are all things you develop a 'feel' for as time goes by.

With that said, I used an Arizona EZ fletch decades ago, and never much cared for it. One of the main reasons being what you cited; there is really no adjustability in placement of the fletch. (position, offset angle, etc)

I moved on to a Jo-Jan, and used that for many, many years with great success. (and not really priced much more than an Arizona setups) I still have it, but have recently moved on to a Bitzenberger setup. (I liked it so much, I bought a second off the classifieds, one I leave set for Right helical, and one I adjust while using a straight clamp) My advice for all beginners now is to just save up, and go straight for a Bitzenberger.

In the olden days when we used things like Bohning Fletch-tite that took significant time to dry/cure, fletching all three at once seemed to be ideal as it saved time. But with modern CA based glues and near instant cure times, doing single fletch at a time installations doesn't really take that much longer to complete a whole arrow.

YMMV. 

Cheers,
E.


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## bowtech2006 (Apr 1, 2006)

Are you making sure the nock is going over the stop that holds arrow straight up? If not arrow will go to deep and cause arms to not close right and fletching even farther away from nock.


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## jskwon22 (Dec 27, 2016)

bowtech2006 said:


> Are you making sure the nock is going over the stop that holds arrow straight up? If not arrow will go to deep and cause arms to not close right and fletching even farther away from nock.


I am very intentionally seeding the nock in the stop and finding the arrow does go down pretty deep and therefore the fletching is starting pretty far from the nock. The nock doesn't turn so it seems to be in the stop correctly. In the videos I saw, the fletching seems to start around 1" away from the nock which would be what I'd expect but mind seems to start much further away.

The one thing I didn't try was leaving the jig vertically on a table instead of holding it in hand. I'm thinking this may help with the alignment issues of the arm during closure, but not sure about the depth of the arrow sitting in the stop.

Joe.


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## bowtech2006 (Apr 1, 2006)

jskwon22 said:


> I am very intentionally seeding the nock in the stop and finding the arrow does go down pretty deep and therefore the fletching is starting pretty far from the nock. The nock doesn't turn so it seems to be in the stop correctly. In the videos I saw, the fletching seems to start around 1" away from the nock which would be what I'd expect but mind seems to start much further away.
> 
> The one thing I didn't try was leaving the jig vertically on a table instead of holding it in hand. I'm thinking this may help with the alignment issues of the arm during closure, but not sure about the depth of the arrow sitting in the stop.
> 
> Joe.


Arrow should not be going deep, if u take a flashlight look down you should see where nock goes and once seated correct arrow will spin and nock with stay where you seated it, but if nocks are really tight on shaft the jig will click as you turn the part nock sits in. Also close it slow and don't put the top down hard on limbs. You may have a bad jig to. Good luck. All three of mine work good just keep them clean and not over use glue


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## j.conner (Nov 12, 2009)

The biggest issue I have had is keeping the EZ Fletch clean. You are correct, there is not much adjustment so you get what you get. I use mine for fletching kid and class arrows, where close enough is good enough and a bit of smeared glue is not an issue.

The Bitzenburger gives you much more control and I find it to be easier to cleanly apply glue to a vane in the clamp in my hand, as opposed to the EZ Fletch with three arms flopping loose and vanes sliding around. With a CA gel glue, it sets in about 18 seconds and you're on to the next vane with the Bitzenburger, so I am not sure if the EZ Fletch saves much time unless you are just cranking through arrows without being too picky.


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## jskwon22 (Dec 27, 2016)

bowtech2006 said:


> Arrow should not be going deep, if u take a flashlight look down you should see where nock goes and once seated correct arrow will spin and nock with stay where you seated it, but if nocks are really tight on shaft the jig will click as you turn the part nock sits in. Also close it slow and don't put the top down hard on limbs. You may have a bad jig to. Good luck. All three of mine work good just keep them clean and not over use glue


yes, the nock does appear to sit snugly and cause the jig to click when I turn the arrow. So it seems like the nock is seated properly. Just seems way longer than it should be. Something's not right.

I'll give it another try soon and let you know how it goes. I may have to "rig the jig" to make the arrow sit higher so the vanes start closer to the nock. Or if the alignment issues persist I will just return it.


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## huckduck (Nov 24, 2014)

post a picture of your nock seated in it?


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## jskwon22 (Dec 27, 2016)

Okay, I actually went down to a local shop and purchased a second EZ Fletch Mini and confirm the length from nock groove to start of vane to be the same as the other. I did find this one aligned better so my issues with vanes not sitting properly once fletched appears addressed. I will have to return the other but still wonder about the length. 

Will try to upload a few images here to visualize my concern. Perhaps it's me and it's a non-issue and just now it is with arrows fletched with this jig but it doesn't appear to be in any other arrows I have or seen.

Here's the second jig along with the arrows I plan on fletching (Carbon Impact, new VAP and existing NPX).









Here's the carbon impact shaft seated in the jig. All the way in and nock doesn't turn.









Here's the image showing the closed jig with the arrow now aligned correctly inside. NOTE: Not the actual closed w/ vanes and glue.









Blue and white vaned arrow in the middle below is the arrow I just fletched along with the 2 all whites to the right which were done with the first jig. Comparing to the NPX and other arrows I had already fletched you can see the variance. Of course, these other arrows may not have been fletched with an EZ Fletch Mini, but most other arrows appear generally the same. No complaints with the vane placement or helix - look good other than too much glue on my part - it's just the gap between.


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## ccriley6 (Dec 1, 2011)

Pay attention to how much pressure you put on it when "clamping" the wings down. Too much too fast will cause the vane to move leaving the odd alignment. Been there, done that. Only advice is when clamping it, go very slow and easy.


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## jskwon22 (Dec 27, 2016)

ccriley6 said:


> Pay attention to how much pressure you put on it when "clamping" the wings down. Too much too fast will cause the vane to move leaving the odd alignment. Been there, done that. Only advice is when clamping it, go very slow and easy.


Thanks for the tip! Question: Do your vanes also sit as far away from the nock as mine appear to? That's my fundamental question/issue at this point.

Joe.


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## ccriley6 (Dec 1, 2011)

jskwon22 said:


> Thanks for the tip! Question: Do your vanes also sit as far away from the nock as mine appear to? That's my fundamental question/issue at this point.
> 
> Joe.


I use bohning blazer vanes. Mine end up about like the 2 arrows on the right of your picture.


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## bowtech2006 (Apr 1, 2006)

jskwon22 said:


> Thanks for the tip! Question: Do your vanes also sit as far away from the nock as mine appear to? That's my fundamental question/issue at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## jskwon22 (Dec 27, 2016)

Thanks, so even with yours it seems less far from nock then mine do. Maybe this is design. I may just need to figure out a way to creat a longer nock just to use with the jig to get the desired distance.

I just wanted to be sure I wasn't crazy or doing something wrong.

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jskwon22 (Dec 27, 2016)

Here's what I was able to do (at least for the Super Club arrows using push in nocks). I removed the push in nocks and used a beiter pin nock (pin's didn't fit in super club arrows, but it worked as a spacer) to remove about 1/2" from the gap. After fletching, I replaced the push in nocks to get usable arrows for my wife.









This won't work for my personal arrows since they will continue using the pin nocks, so I'll have to figure out another way to remove the gap or find another jig.

Not sure if I'm the only one having this experience? Seems rather strange.

Thanks everyone! Happy Friday!

Joe.


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## Macdoc18 (Dec 28, 2012)

Why the concern about the gap if its the same on all your arrows.would seem to be a blessing Less facial contact with the vanes.Or just find a longer nock to pop into your arrow before you fletch it


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## j.conner (Nov 12, 2009)

Mine are all about the same, Bitzenberger included. I highly recommend using the Bitz if you really want to finely control fletch position.


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