# Degree of offset for fletching



## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

Depending on shaft diameter, a 2-degree offset is about the max I have obtained using a "straight clamp." Otherwise the forward part of the fletch does not make solid contact with the shaft surface. Use a "protractor" to set the jig by measuring at the forward adjustment of the jig. _I_ leave the rear adjustment at "0".


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## foodtraveler (Feb 12, 2011)

WindWalker said:


> Depending on shaft diameter, a 2-degree offset is about the max I have obtained using a "straight clamp." Otherwise the forward part of the fletch does not make solid contact with the shaft surface. Use a "protractor" to set the jig by measuring at the forward adjustment of the jig. _I_ leave the rear adjustment at "0".


Not sure about the protractor part, but let's just say I set the bottom Biz setting 1/16" one way from straight and the top 1/16" the other way. That 1/8" of offset gives me ____ _degree_ of it?


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## Bender (Dec 6, 2006)

Approx 1.4 degrees.


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## foodtraveler (Feb 12, 2011)

Bender said:


> Approx 1.4 degrees.


Great. And how did you come up with that?


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Nick -

Unless you're trying to copy the LAS settings, a degree or two usually won't matter at normal distances. 

I'm not a fan of the Bitz, but if you are trying to copy a given offset, you should be able to line up a pre-fletched arrow with the clamp and then lock in the setting. I haven't tried, though. 

The other way of doing it is with basic trig (and you're talking the the wrong guy on that...) If you know the clamp length between the two adjustment points and the lateral offset, you can get the degrees. 

(Your gonna love this...)









Viper1 out.


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## foodtraveler (Feb 12, 2011)

Viper1 said:


> Nick -
> 
> Unless you're trying to copy the LAS settings, a degree or two usually won't matter at normal distances.
> 
> ...


Thanks. Makes sense re clamping a pre-fletched arrow of a given offset. And I suspected there was more math to this than I wanted to know! I think the space I've got available on top of my 1816s is about right for the angle I mention up the thread a bit. I'll fletch some up that way and see how they spin relative to the ones I've got with a little less offset. As I understand it, you want some spin but not so much that it takes away from the available energy to propel the arrows forward. I mean, I'm not trying to stabilize a broadhead (not that there's anything wrong with that :smile; I'm trying to shoot straight out to 60 yards.


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## MB86 (Sep 14, 2011)

Which sub-$100 jig would you suggest? My results with the Bitz improved after adding the Zenith Archery upgrade kit.....locks my fletch alignment into place better.


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

For years I have used nothing but Bitz and as far as I am concerned they are the Cadillac of fletching jigs.

Whether you use a straight, offset, or helical fletch, subsequent arrow performance depends much on how well your rig is tuned and the type of broadhead you use. The basic rule regarding fletch is how much and what placement (straight, offset, helical) do/will you need to quickly stabilize your shaft, to overcome (hopefully) certain tune/flight irregularities, and to prevent the broadhead from overly controlling the flight.

If your tune is spot on, a straight or slight offset is good because there will be less fletch-caused noise and less drag, which (less drag) computes to more speed and conserved dowrange speed and less trajectory. As for straight fletch, you will never get the fletch equally set so straight that the shaft will not rotate. I have 2 different spined shaft sets that are straight fletched and mounted with vented "Snuffers." Nothing purdier than to watch those shafts slip silently downrange

I have used (about) a 2-degree offset with the "Snuffers and some 2-blade heads, but for a while now I have been using full helical for 2-blade heads. I will be doing some experimenting this spring with offset and 2-blade heads on my new 45# bow.

If you are not hell-bent on obtaining an exact 2-degree offset; just put a fletch in your clamp, set it in the jig, loosen the adjusters and just "eye" your offset with full contact of fletch to shaft being your guide.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Nick -

A dead straight feather fletching will impart enough air resistance to cause the arrow to spin, due to its natural curvature. I seriously doubt you'll notice the difference a degree or two will make. 

MB86 -

I've been using Jo-Jan Multi-fletchers since before they were called Jo-Jans, just a shade under 40 years now. You can pay more, but you won't get any more as far as fletching quality or ease of use is concerned. It's your choice and your money. Since I prefer using glue, doing 6 arrows at a time is a major advantage. 

Viper1 out.


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## JParanee (Oct 13, 2009)

I m also a Jo Jann guy 

I try nd get as much helical as I can 

Got some cooking right now


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## MB86 (Sep 14, 2011)

I guess when I started out fletching several years back, the Bitz reviews I read were all good, so that's what I went with. I may have to consider a Jo-Jan.....Good to know that old dogs can still learn a few tricks. Thanks!


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

MB86 -

If you're not in a hurry or use fletch-tape, the Bitz is fine. It just bugs me to spend that kind of money and not get any real benefit from it. When I fletch, I generally do a few dozen arrows, so I can set up both a helical and a straight JJ and just run through them. 

Both jigs have their proponents, and sometimes the "debates" get a little heated. If you can try a JJ out, see if you like it. 

Viper1 out.


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## MB86 (Sep 14, 2011)

Yeah, I'm never in a hurry.....Just a hobby and I fletch them up when I need them (or my nephew, bro-in-law, etc.) BTW, just ordered up your book from 3Rivers.....looking forward to getting it.


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## Bender (Dec 6, 2006)

As pointed out it was simple trig. But don't just just "eyeball it" as suggested. First off you want good contact between the fletch base and shaft. Yo can set that up by sliding the clamp carrier around until you see good cantact, or as suggested copy an already made arrow by sliding the carrier around until the clamp natches up. Either way, MARK the carrier so that what you decide on can be reduplcated later. You see as time goes on you may wind up trying fatter or skinnier shafts or helical vs. straight or whatever, and that may require adjustment in order to keep good base contact. Then should you wish to arrows according to your earlier set up, then you can just match the marks up. 
BTW I found that my Bitz worked even better once I disassembled it and polished up the sliding surfaces of the frame, the carrier, and the knobs. I applied very very small amounts of silicone based grease. Silicone based grease doesn't spread, crawl, wick all over the place like petroleum based grease.


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

> _But don't just just "eyeball it" as suggested. First off you want good contact between the fletch base and shaft. Yo can set that up by sliding the clamp carrier around until you see good cantact, or as suggested copy an already made arrow by sliding the carrier around until the clamp natches up_


+​
"If you are not hell-bent on obtaining an exact 2-degree offset; just put a fletch in your clamp, set it in the jig, *loosen the adjusters and just "eye" your offset with full contact of fletch to shaft being your guide."*

??


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## foodtraveler (Feb 12, 2011)

Thanks, everybody. I appreciate the help.


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## BowmanJay (Jan 1, 2007)

I only use bitz jigs and I try to max the amount of offset for the shaft without having the feather hang off at either end. That is really what you will need to look at, for 11/32" shafts it turns out being around 2 degrees for a 5" feather.


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