# Preference for tuning your indoor arrows?



## *SWITCH (Nov 27, 2007)

Today I re-tuned my bow for outdoor/acg arrows that I had shortened, and wow what a difference. I used method at 3yd/50yds. (link below). I normally do a paper tune before that, then tiller if needed after walk back.

I want to do this with my indoor arrows (2312) as I think this is best way to tune a particular arrow to yourself and your bows current set up.

But should I reduce the longer distance to 20yds, as this is all they will ever be shot at. Or do you need the further distance to be optimal/effective?

What are you guys doing, paper tune, bare shaft what?

I'm shooting a compound with spring steel blade rest/release aid.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCiTPJrCNA8


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## Mahly (Dec 18, 2002)

Bare shaft tune at 20 yards.
Even that is probably overkill


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## *SWITCH (Nov 27, 2007)

So 1 for BS tuning then. I did try it last indoor season, but i'm in two minds about it.

For some reason I feel like BS is not always the most forgiving set up for a blade rest with large diameter arrows and big vanes. I know it works well for some.


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## Cody305 (Sep 29, 2016)

I have done all the bareshaft stuff. Yes it’s peace of mind knowing your arrows fly like darts. I did it for awhile. Then realized there is better ways for forgiveness as said above. My tuning methods for indoor start with a simple paper tune. Get a decent bullet hole okay. Then think about one of your major weaknesses. My top weakness is not always staying strong on my release arm. I am a light creeper for some reason. So I put a horizontal line on the target. 20 yards. Get my normal shot dialed in to split the horizontal line. Next step is to take multiple shots purposely creeping off your draw stops, and also taking shots pulling harder than you usually would. With the manipulation of cam timing, you can achieve hitting that horizontal line with creep shots, and also extra strong shots. To my surprise, this method has worked on all bows, not just the Hoyt’s. My Halon x comp, pse Supra ext, and even my victory 39. Just my process to feel confident that my weaker shots will not drift as far high or low.


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## *SWITCH (Nov 27, 2007)

@Cody305 - ty, yeh as I shoot a solocam so creep tuning is a little different. I can't really budge the cam timing at the moment anyway coz of other issues. However I do the horizontal line thing at 50m for outdoor arrows, this is achieved with tiller to fine tune vertical grouping. 

In the past I had success with lowering the blade gradually to achieve a more forgiving set up, on Bowtech OD binary cams, only thing is it was so low the quikspin vanes would lightly glance my grip finger now and again! It stung, but surprisingly didn't seem to alter impact point usually.


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## Cody305 (Sep 29, 2016)

Yeah the solocam can put a damper in that! I also do a bit of torque tuning. shoot at small dots while moving my blade rest foreword or backward until the purposely torqued shots still hit decently close to the Aimed target. Just small things like that have helped my consistency. I’m also starting to get away from tuning to a perfect bullet hole as well.(at least for indoor) As a right handed shooter, lately I’ve been tuning so I get a slight nock high/left. Maybe this old theory doesn’t add up to much, but in my eyes it lets the big indoor vanes start to work earlier in the shot process. I haven’t seen any accuracy declines with this process.


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## lees (Feb 10, 2017)

I bareshaft tune for everything. The other methods are just different ways to get you to the same place, tho some are more confusing and more work than necessary. 

As an aside, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that it's probably a myth that you can't get a good bareshaft tune out of fat indoor arrows. I've always been able to, even my latest setup of shooting 2312 X23's out of a 30 to 40lb PSE. A super duper stiff 27 size shaft may not be the most forgiving to shoot, but I still think the effort of BS tuning your fat indoor tree trunks is worth it and is achievable.

lee.


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## Kylakebuck (Aug 20, 2019)

If you bareshaft tune, wouldn’t the vanes become “streamers” ?


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## Robspartacus (Feb 20, 2017)

Yes, you can bareshaft tune fat arrows. I've done it with Gold Tip Xcutters all the way up to 27s. You can bareshaft tune a Triple X. It's all in how much time you invest. These pics below are Black Eagle 350 spine with Zen Vanes and 200 grain tips. Bare shaft pic at 20 yards. Group pic is 45 yards with a circle dot for indoors. They are slow. About 235 FPS. I practice for indoor Vegas by shooting 45 yards at the same size target as a 20 yard target. Before I bareshaft tuned I couldn't stay this tight at 45 but at 20 they stayed in the 10. At 45 most would stay in the 8 or 9. Now, this bow is a tack driver. Way higher X count. 

I believe in bareshaft tuning, but there are exceptions. Had a Victory 39 that had a low right bareshaft (slightly high left tear) and I could not miss with it. My Victory 37 shoots best bare shaft tuned. Crazy.

My Hoyt ProForce is an absolute tack driver bareshaft tuned, but does decent even a wee bit off. Before it had a left tear and still shot phenomenal. After the tune, with very stiff spines, it just hits behind the pin every time. 

Bareshaft tuning works.









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## *SWITCH (Nov 27, 2007)

interesting ty, especially your practice method for Vegas, weather just ain’t good enough for me though during indoor season, limited to the 20 yd’s for most of it. Do you tune all your arrows with bs then just leave it or do you add a walk back after the bs tune?


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## *SWITCH (Nov 27, 2007)

interesting ty, especially your practice method for Vegas, weather just ain’t good enough for me though during indoor season, limited to the 20 yd’s for most of it. Do you tune all your arrows with bs then just leave it or do you add a walk back after the bs tune?


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## "TheBlindArcher" (Jan 27, 2015)

Not an arrow tuning expert [not even a novice], but can't see where it would hurt to tune at farther distances- The longer the shots the better it will be to notice flaws/issues, and if it's on at 50m it will be on at 20yds.


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## Robspartacus (Feb 20, 2017)

*SWITCH said:


> interesting ty, especially your practice method for Vegas, weather just ain’t good enough for me though during indoor season, limited to the 20 yd’s for most of it. Do you tune all your arrows with bs then just leave it or do you add a walk back after the bs tune?


I bareshaft first and verify with walk back. I get the same result. But if I walk back first my bareshaft tends to be 2" low and 2" right. Why you ask? Have no idea. 

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## GMtech (Mar 28, 2013)

*SWITCH said:


> @Cody305 - ty, yeh as I shoot a solocam so creep tuning is a little different. I can't really budge the cam timing at the moment anyway coz of other issues. However I do the horizontal line thing at 50m for outdoor arrows, this is achieved with tiller to fine tune vertical grouping.
> 
> In the past I had success with lowering the blade gradually to achieve a more forgiving set up, on Bowtech OD binary cams, only thing is it was so low the quikspin vanes would lightly glance my grip finger now and again! It stung, but surprisingly didn't seem to alter impact point usually.


Switch, what thickness blade rest are you using? I'm using a .008 and it seems to be preforming well but wonder if .010 would be better? I'm shooting a Conquest 4 at 52 lbs., 29 DL and minimax cam.

Also, when tiller tuning, how much do you turn the limb bolt for each group of arrows shot? 1/4, 1/2, 1 or?

Thanks, Mike


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## *SWITCH (Nov 27, 2007)

GMtech said:


> Switch, what thickness blade rest are you using? I'm using a .008 and it seems to be preforming well but wonder if .010 would be better? I'm shooting a Conquest 4 at 52 lbs., 29 DL and minimax cam.
> 
> Also, when tiller tuning, how much do you turn the limb bolt for each group of arrows shot? 1/4, 1/2, 1 or?
> 
> Thanks, Mike



last season I used a tt best blade 10 wide. I have an 8 and a 12 in the wide, which I have tried at various times. This season hoping to use a narrow blade though. But if arrows drops off too much, merlin archery make slightly wider blades than the TT narrow ones, and some slightly narrower than the tt wide. so might give them a go. I feel the narrow is more forgiving than the wide. regarding the 8 blade, I use quite a shallow angle maybe 30/35 degrees so possibly too much sag with a heavy arrow. a steeper angle prob ok. 10 probably worth a shot though.

I normally do very small tiller adjustments at a time. Got an 1/8th of a turn more in the Con4's top limb. this was the same on my other Con4 also.

Last 2 time I walk back/tiller tuned for pro tours they hit the same or within 1/4" of bare shaft at 20yds. But I've not tried that in reverse to see if same. Only Bs my 2312 at about 12 yds I think last season


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## Tipe (May 19, 2018)

Cody305 said:


> I have done all the bareshaft stuff. Yes it’s peace of mind knowing your arrows fly like darts. I did it for awhile. Then realized there is better ways for forgiveness as said above. My tuning methods for indoor start with a simple paper tune. Get a decent bullet hole okay. Then think about one of your major weaknesses. My top weakness is not always staying strong on my release arm. I am a light creeper for some reason. So I put a horizontal line on the target. 20 yards. Get my normal shot dialed in to split the horizontal line. Next step is to take multiple shots purposely creeping off your draw stops, and also taking shots pulling harder than you usually would. With the manipulation of cam timing, you can achieve hitting that horizontal line with creep shots, and also extra strong shots. To my surprise, this method has worked on all bows, not just the Hoyt’s. My Halon x comp, pse Supra ext, and even my victory 39. Just my process to feel confident that my weaker shots will not drift as far high or low.


That's exactly what I'm attending to do.
Papertune bare shafts and...

Before creeptuning I will torquetune rest.

After all my indoor max distance is 30yd in FLINT.
Love that comp.. best indoor what is.


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## swbuckmaster (Dec 20, 2005)

For indoor 18 meters/20 yards "vegas style" shoots you can get away with murder when it comes to bow tune. As long as it isnt getting vane contact it will hit the same spot if you make good shots. Bow tune really only matters when you attach blades on the front of the arrow or you start shooting multiple distances. 

Saying that I prefer to see my arrows flying straight so i bare shaft tune at 20 yards or paper tune bare shafts at 4 to 6 yards then fletch. It makes no difference in score which tune I use they both end up with the same scores as long as the vanes aren't contacting the rest or cables. 



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