# Is this acceptable paper tune?



## suzukigs750ez (Jun 3, 2021)

Hey guys. Bow was shooting nock high (two vanes up top, tear at bottom) so I moved the rest up. Is this acceptable? I pushed paper back a bit to show hole.


----------



## tirving (Nov 3, 2013)

Depends on what your next step is. If it's bareshaft tuning at 20, you'll likely see your bareshaft hitting left and low.


----------



## suzukigs750ez (Jun 3, 2021)

After adjusting the rest towards the riser, this is what I get. I can see the nock in the air tail right with the bare shaft. My fletched is now dead on. When I shoot 3 bare and one fletched, fletched first they all group tight and none are crooked. Is that fine? The person who set my bow up previous to me did a terrible job. I've literally had to tear down and rebuild this brand new v3 from scratch. What he afforded me was knowledge but I haven't really been able to enjoy it... the vane tears may look funny because the paper had been sitting in a basement. It's like butcher paper. The fletched photo is one before I was getting bullet holes with vanes.


----------



## tirving (Nov 3, 2013)

Yup, that's a nock right tear in both, bareshaft just amplifies it. What distance abd you shooting through paper? Are you shooting right or left handed?


----------



## Verminaters1967 (Aug 20, 2019)

No not at all paper tune is done with a bare shaft I see a lot of archers paper tune with flech arrows this is WRONG if you dont the next thread that you will start is why wont my broad heads fly the same as my field tips . im not trying to be an ass but I see it all the time , I truly im trying to help .


----------



## suzukigs750ez (Jun 3, 2021)

I'm shooting maybe 18 yards, right handed. Same arrows, just unfletched.


----------



## suzukigs750ez (Jun 3, 2021)

Should I start with 90° nock point and move arrow rest settings back to zero? I have nock and rest set where the shop had it and was just adjusting the rest.


----------



## tirving (Nov 3, 2013)

So, you're actually bareshaft tuning. Shooting fletched through paper at 18 yards is not good as the vanes will stabilizer arrow flight at that distance. This is why you're bareshaft tore hard right. 
My advice, set everything square and level and work on your form to get the arrow flight as good as you can get it before moving rest. 
Depends on what bow you have but you may have to shims cams right or twist right yokes. I'd do that after working on form but before moving rest. Right handed shooter with right tear/arrow hitting left of fletched could mean the distance between your grip and your nocking point is too short and your draw elbow angle compared to grip/cams is too acute. This could be a lot: DL too short, lazy draw arm, pushing bow shoulder to far out, d loop too short.


----------



## suzukigs750ez (Jun 3, 2021)

Should I shoot it and watch the arrow. When the arrow looks like it's flying a bit more straight pull out the paper?


----------



## suzukigs750ez (Jun 3, 2021)

Now I'm getting this square


----------



## suzukigs750ez (Jun 3, 2021)

OK so, my last post is the best I can get. Does the target have to be head height or can you shoot out from 20 yards aiming towards the ground?

When I find the nock is tearing one direction or another (usually elevation) and I adjust it throws the fletched into alignment and the bare is off. Usually diagonal. I'm shooting a mathews v3 31 if that helps.

It's definitely closer now than it has been since I bought it. The paper tear at best is about an inch.


----------



## suzukigs750ez (Jun 3, 2021)

These are my results from today.


----------



## Mr.Ed (Apr 14, 2012)

Is the arrow that you are using the proper spline for your set up? if so
The tare seems to be wrong. I've always started bare shaft tuning close to the target maybe 10 ft. with enough room between the paper and the target so not to tare the paper when you pool your arrow out. also shoot at a level height. This should help with odd tare issues. 
At this point I start moving the rest left or right to get ride of the tare.

Hope it helps.


----------



## suzukigs750ez (Jun 3, 2021)

Well, per your recommendation I changed my windage back past zero and I got the bare shaft to make an online tear perfectly vertical maybe an arrow and a half tear. That's the best I can do. Fletched still has perfect hole and vane lines.


----------



## tirving (Nov 3, 2013)

suzukigs750ez said:


> Well, per your recommendation I changed my windage back past zero and I got the bare shaft to make an online tear perfectly vertical maybe an arrow and a half tear. That's the best I can do. Fletched still has perfect hole and vane lines.


How far? If you're more than like 3-4 yards away from the paper, your vanes will stabilizer arrow the way they're supposed to, which will give you a bullet hole-ish.


----------



## suzukigs750ez (Jun 3, 2021)

Maybe 2-3 yards for both bare & fletched. It was 12 feet or less.


----------



## suzukigs750ez (Jun 3, 2021)

So, I tuned on paper fletched from 6' away today and still good. If my bare shafts are tip heavy, won't that cause nock high? How do you know if a bare shaft is actually giving accurate results. I'm shooting Easton FMJ 340 spine with 100gr field points.


----------



## Looeden (Feb 25, 2021)

What is your draw weight? Have you used Archers Advantage before? Of course, nothing beats buying every type of arrow with every type of weight and testing but it helped me getting really damn close. Best $12 you can spend.


----------



## Ericmorin18 (Dec 7, 2019)

suzukigs750ez said:


> So, I tuned on paper fletched from 6' away today and still good. If my bare shafts are tip heavy, won't that cause nock high? How do you know if a bare shaft is actually giving accurate results. I'm shooting Easton FMJ 340 spine with 100gr field points.


hey how’s it going I have to tell you the tears are so inconsistent that I believe you might be going through the same thing I was the engage grip there’s times that I could go out grab my bow shoot a bare shaft through paper and have a perfect bullet hole then try again with that same arrow and get a nasty tear Matthews are the only bows that I’ve never been able to paper tune with confidence I’ve always just had to get it close then go out and shoot a bear shaft and a fletched arrow than if they’re perfectly parallel I start a walk back tune. A paper tune can be so frustrating I have since wrapped my grip with the bowmar grip tape and has helped a lot Also I am 29/70 and recommended a 340 spine but I got a 300 to tune much easier you could take a couple turns out of your limbs and just try one bear shaft and see if tear gets better if it does you most likely need to go to 300’s out of four of VXR‘s and three V3‘s I now own a vertix which I happened to just shoot Night and day better than they’re newer bows. I would try decreasing your poundage make sure you’re 90° off the string and 13/16 center shot


----------



## tirving (Nov 3, 2013)

suzukigs750ez said:


> So, I tuned on paper fletched from 6' away today and still good. If my bare shafts are tip heavy, won't that cause nock high? How do you know if a bare shaft is actually giving accurate results. I'm shooting Easton FMJ 340 spine with 100gr field points.


No, it won't, all arrows are tip heavy if they weren't, they wouldn't fly well al all. Some people put tape on the back end of the bareshaft to weigh ad much as your vanes. I have found this makes no difference at all. If you can get pretty consistent bullet holes through paper, your 20 yard bareshaft tune (not through paper) will likely be easier.


----------



## suzukigs750ez (Jun 3, 2021)

tirving said:


> No, it won't, all arrows are tip heavy it they wouldn't fly well al all. Some people put tape on the back end of the bareshaft to weigh ad much as your vanes. I have found this makes no difference at all. If you can get pretty consistent bullet holes through paper, your 20 yard bareshaft tune (not through paper) will likely be easier.


Ha! I thought bare shaft was to be used through the paper as well. Well, my fletched is flying through the paper as good as i think it'll get. Is fletched something i should shoot at 2 yards, then 10, then 20? Or keep it close? Bare shaft out to 20 & 30, make sure it groups well with the fletched?


----------



## suzukigs750ez (Jun 3, 2021)

Ericmorin18 said:


> hey how’s it going I have to tell you the tears are so inconsistent that I believe you might be going through the same thing I was the engage grip there’s times that I could go out grab my bow shoot a bare shaft through paper and have a perfect bullet hole then try again with that same arrow and get a nasty tear Matthews are the only bows that I’ve never been able to paper tune with confidence I’ve always just had to get it close then go out and shoot a bear shaft and a fletched arrow than if they’re perfectly parallel I start a walk back tune. A paper tune can be so frustrating I have since wrapped my grip with the bowmar grip tape and has helped a lot Also I am 29/70 and recommended a 340 spine but I got a 300 to tune much easier you could take a couple turns out of your limbs and just try one bear shaft and see if tear gets better if it does you most likely need to go to 300’s out of four of VXR‘s and three V3‘s I now own a vertix which I happened to just shoot Night and day better than they’re newer bows. I would try decreasing your poundage make sure you’re 90° off the string and 13/16 center shot


I am 13/16 off riser and 90 degree nock. I actually switched my grip out to the beereal grip. I didn't like the engage grip that came with the bow. I've heard a lot of people like right off the riser, that's how my last bow was. I like how flat the back of the beereal grip is. Your bow sounds setup the same as mine.


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

suzukigs750ez said:


> So, I tuned on paper fletched from 6' away today and still good. If my bare shafts are tip heavy, won't that cause nock high? How do you know if a bare shaft is actually giving accurate results. I'm shooting Easton FMJ 340 spine with 100gr field points.


Shoot three fletched and at least ONE bareshaft into a target.



One fletched field point.
One bareshaft field point.
One fixed blade broadhead at 20 yards. This is schuler 26, after I helped him.



Two fletched field points. One bareshaft. 30 yards into a bag target.


----------



## tirving (Nov 3, 2013)

suzukigs750ez said:


> Ha! I thought bare shaft was to be used through the paper as well. Well, my fletched is flying through the paper as good as i think it'll get. Is fletched something i should shoot at 2 yards, then 10, then 20? Or keep it close? Bare shaft out to 20 & 30, make sure it groups well with the fletched?


I also shoot bareshafts through paper at 3-4 yards before I bareshaft tune out to 20 yards. I have found if I get the bareshaft through paper as close to a bullet hole as possible, my bareshaft vs fletched shooting at 20 yards is quicker.


----------



## Looeden (Feb 25, 2021)

tirving said:


> I also shoot bareshafts through paper at 3-4 yards before I bareshaft tune out to 20 yards. I have found if I get the bareshaft through paper as close to a bullet hole as possible, my bareshaft vs fletched shooting at 20 yards is quicker.


I 2nd this!


----------



## Ericmorin18 (Dec 7, 2019)

suzukigs750ez said:


> I am 13/16 off riser and 90 degree nock. I actually switched my grip out to the beereal grip. I didn't like the engage grip that came with the bow. I've heard a lot of people like right off the riser, that's how my last bow was. I like how flat the back of the beereal grip is. Your bow sounds setup the same as mine.


I love the ultraview grip you are correct a flat back made my shooting much more consistent I had to v3 31 And actually went back to VXR 31.5 then shot the vertix again and something about that platform just clicks with me. Granted the vertix to the V3 there all a very similar feel. Zero vibration so quiet


----------



## Mspaci101 (Oct 4, 2021)

I quit paper tuning years ago, took all the fun out of it. Not necessary at all


----------



## hoytsucks (Sep 29, 2021)

I would start with shooting like 5 yards paper tuning.


----------



## Huntergy (Jun 29, 2021)

Mspaci101 said:


> I quit paper tuning years ago, took all the fun out of it. Not necessary at all


What is your process for tuning? Always looking for new ways of doing things so just curious. Thanks


----------



## 1/2 Bubble Off (Dec 29, 2016)

Huntergy said:


> What is your process for tuning? Always looking for new ways of doing things so just curious. Thanks


I shoot through paper at about 6 feet just to make sure there's nothing crazy going on. As long as it's kinda close, I move the paper stand and bareshaft at 10 and 20yds. 

Once bare and fletched are hitting together at 20, I shoot a broadhead... This is one bareshaft, one field point and one fixed blade broadhead. When I can do this, I go outside and check my sight tape with broadheads.... I haven't had to make a single adjustment to my rest since to get broadheads to fly since I started bareshafting....


----------



## Taken_name7 (Oct 10, 2021)

^^^^very nice shooting above, Looks good!


----------



## raisins (Jan 21, 2016)

keep experimenting with grip and form until your bareshaft through paper is consistent

shoot bareshafts through paper (i like wax paper) at distances from 6 to 15 or so feet, tune until the bareshaft puts a perfect hole through paper, that's at least my starting point

then i shoot bareshaft and fletched at 25 yards and broadheads on fletched at 40 yards and tune


----------



## BigXX78 (Mar 16, 2005)

Paper just gets in the way. 

Shoot a bare shaft at 20 yards. Keep making necessary tuning adjustments until it hits your target, with the nock end pointing straight back at you, exactly like your fletched arrows--without any horizontal or vertical angles, other than normal arrow trajectory.


----------



## suzukigs750ez (Jun 3, 2021)

I just retuned after some adjustments and a new release. Paper tuned within a few arrows and off i went with bare shaft. Quick and painless once you do it for the first time. Reading it on the internet is much more "complicated" than the process actually is. Once you get the fletched relatively straight on paper and get your "bullet hole" it's within safe flying distance. Move back to 20 yds, shoot fletched and shoot bare. Move fletched arrow to bare. If fletched is center and bare is left, move the rest to the left. If fletched is center and bare is high, move the rest LOW. Once i get this in, my broadheads always group well. But you need to be consistent in your shooting form or you'll be out of your mind within 30 minutes.


----------

