# how do u find true center shot



## deerwhackmaster (Jan 25, 2008)

what is the best way to find true center shot and why


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

*True centershot*



deerwhackmaster said:


> what is the best way to find true center shot and why


True centershot means that if you fire an arrow at 6 feet,
and then,
if you fire an arrow at 16 feet
and then,
if you fire an arrow at 160 feet,
the arrow groups will still be centered on the bullseye.

Now,
as the distance gets longer and longer,
the group size gets bigger,
but the arrow group is still centered on the bullseye.

Now,
if your arrow rest is off to one side of true centershot,
then...

as the distance gets longer
6 feet,
then 16 feet
then 160 feet...

the arrow groups start to drift to one side,
more and more,
as the shooting distance gets longer and longer.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

*One, rather easy way, to figure out where is true centershot*

So,
lotsa ways to try and figure out
where is "true centershot".

So,
here is one way.


Hang a string with a weight on the end,
so the string splits the bullseye on your bag target.

Step back just 72-inches, Yup, just 6 feet.

Load up a field point arrow,
and try to split the string fibers.

Next to the string is not good enough.
Take your time,
and ONLY adjust the sight pins,
left or right.

If you miss,
adjust the sight pin.

If you miss again, but are getting closer,
adjust the sight pin.

Keep adjusting the sight pin,
until you can perfectly nail the string
at a distance of 6 feet.



Ok.


Now,
back up to any convenient longer distance.

Might be you have only 12 feet in your garage.
Maybe you have 19 feet in the side yard.
Possibly have 23 feet in the back yard.

Use what you have.

Ok.

Now, if it is safe to shoot arrow groups,
shoot a 3 arrow group at your bullseye.

Size of the arrow group is not important.
Just fire the 3 arrow group,
and see if the arrow group perfectly CENTERS your bullseye.

If not,
then tweak the arrow rest,
a teeny, tiny, itsy, bitsy bit. Just a nudge,
and then lock it down.

Try another 3 arrow group.

Keep nudging and adjusting the ARROW REST only,
when shooting at the longer distance,
until the arrow group is centered on top of the bullseye.


Not Done Yet.


Go back to 6 feet,
and try to split the string fibers again.

Probably need a tiny adjustment to the sight pins.
Be picky.
Gotta split the string fibers.


Now,
go back to any longer distance,
that is convenient to you.

Fire a 3 arrow group.
Tweak the arrow rest from the long range distance,
until your arrow group is perfectly centered on top of the bullseye.


Back and forth.

Short distance,
tweak the sight pins.


Longer distance (any longer distance works),
tweak the arrow rest.


Couple of times
of adjustments,
and you are ready to shoot
at any distance,
and the arrow groups should be 
centered on the bullseye
(if you are consistent with bow tilt angle).


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## Hoythunter01 (Oct 23, 2005)

Start with your nock point. Get a square an set your nock point 1/8 high. You can start at 90 degrees, but you'll most likely move it up later on. Save some time and start 1/8" high. Depending what kind of rest you have, let's use a fall away. Anyone will do........let's use a Trophy Taker. 
Find something to hold the rest up in the Rock-n-Roll position. I use a plastic foam block. It's spongy and yet dense enough to hold the rest up. Take a arrow and nock it and let it sit on the rest. Adjust the elevation(up and down) so the shaft covers the berger hole. (rest mounting screw hole)
With the bow in a vise standing vertical. Use levels to make sure the bow is square. Front to back, side to side.
Step back a couple steps and eyeball down the arrow shaft. At that same distance, eyeball the string. Line the string up with the center of the riser. Dead Center of the riser. While keeping an eye on the string dead center of the riser, look down the arrow shaft. The shaft should be completely behind the string. Not a little bit off to the left, not off to the right, completely behind the string. If it's off to the left a little bit, move the rest to the right until the shaft is behind the string.
Once thats accomplished, check everything one last time making sure your levles are still ...............well, level ! Check elevation. Shaft covering the berger hole. Step back a couple steps and line your string up with the riser dead center. Then look down your arrow shaft. When that is all good to go, grab your allen wrench and make sure everything is snug. One shot through paper should confirm that everything was done right. Perfect bullet hole.


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## Infinitey (Mar 13, 2009)

I love it when Nuts N Bolts makes a post......


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## pragmatic_lee (Jan 19, 2008)

Infinitey said:


> I love it when Nuts N Bolts makes a post......


Me too - still waiting on his "book".

Just to add a little to what NnB said - when you're at the close distance and adjusting your SIGHT, move it in the direction of the center of the group. If you're shooting left, then move the sight to the left.

At the longer distance when you're adjusting your REST, move it in the opposite direction of the center of the group.


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## lrbergin (Jan 19, 2009)

The method of finding center shot Nuts&Bolts described is by far the best method I have ever found to find center shot. Much easier and accurate than walk back tuning in my opinion. I still check at 50 yards when I'm done to make sure center shot is good and so far I've never had to adjust anything.


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## BlackTimber (Sep 15, 2002)

Thanks N&B that's awesome!


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## Ancient Archer (Sep 25, 2008)

I also think N&B's method is best. Hoythunter01's method is also good to get you in the ballpark, enough to start shooting at a vertical line. Another method, which is also meant to get you started, is to use what I will call a center-shot gauge.

Mine is made from 1/8"X1/2"X15" aluminum flat stock which you can get at Lowes (comes in 36" lengths).
1.	Cut ~12 1/2" off (adjust this length to suit the brace height - my BH is 8").
2.	Then bend it 90° about 2 1/2" from one end.
3.	Check it out to make sure the bend is square and that the gauge sits square on a flat table with no rocking to it..... might as well make it look good.
4.	Wrap some masking tape approximately at the center of the short leg - where the bowstring will be.
5.	To use it, set up your bow in a vise and adjust the string vertical.
6.	Place and hold the long side of the gauge against the vertical outside face of the riser and bring the short end of the gauge against, or close, to the bowstring.
7.	Mark the C/L location of the string on the masking tape.
8.	Once this is marked, take note of where the long side of the gauge rests against the riser & mark this location on the gauge. This will be the "radius point" for your next measurement.
9.	Place an arrow on the rest and nock it to the string.
10.	Flip the gauge 180° and place it once again against the riser with the radius point at the same place as before on the riser.
11.	Then, raise the rest so the arrow is in the normal shooting position.
12.	Lower the gauge onto the arrow and see where the "string mark" lines up with the C/L of the arrow.
13.	Adjust the rest accordingly so that the C/L of the arrow is aligned with t he C/L of the string.
14.	You are now ready to start shooting at a vertical line using the method N&B described above.


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## Shott1 (Jun 8, 2005)

BlackTimber said:


> Thanks N&B that's awesome!


Yes it is...bookmarked!!


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## deerwhackmaster (Jan 25, 2008)

*nuts n bolts thank you!!!!*

you r pure genius,i only did it back to 20 yards but i couldnt be more happier,before i walked back i did get some nasty tears in paper but i still walked back now im afraid to shoot through paper after i walked back any ideas on the tears or forget about it after my walk back,thanks again and oh yea got me a robin hood to


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## pragmatic_lee (Jan 19, 2008)

I'm not NnB, but with those results I'd have to say: "FORGET the paper" EXCEPT the paper targets. :thumbs_up


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## deerwhackmaster (Jan 25, 2008)

im very happy about it just want it to shoot level


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## Ancient Archer (Sep 25, 2008)

Your low tear indicates a low nocking point which should be taken care of by raising the height of your nocking point slightly. This shouldn't affect windage, only elevation.


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## cshive (Dec 4, 2006)

Ancient Archer said:


> Your low tear indicates a low nocking point which should be taken care of by raising the height of your nocking point slightly. This shouldn't affect windage, only elevation.


OR you can lower your rest. If you raise nock point you will probably hold on target better though.


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## Top Gauge (Sep 6, 2009)

OK looking for some clarification. I just switched from a original WB to a QAD Ultra-Rest. I initially set center shot by eyeballing, then I found my center shot as per the way described above. Then I shot my arrows through paper, I was not way off, but I did have to make some adjustments.

My questions would be as follows concerning adjusting center shot.

1. I am assuming that shooting from 6 feet and moving the sights is because the arrow cannot get off course at such a short distance?

2. I was able to start hitting the center line at 20 yards. I am then assuming that adjusting the rest at distance is to match up your center shot with the centered sight pins?

3. Do I still need to paper tune after this process? I did shoot through paper afterwards and ended up with a high to the left angled tear. I then lower my nocking point, and adjusted my rest windage to get a bullet hole. Should I have gone this far?

After paper tuning, I shot the bow and ended up at 4 inches left, but elevation was fine.

Any info is appreciated!


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