# Please recommend a light weight and low draw weight recurve bow



## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

Hello. 

The Win &Win Axiom Plus ILF limbs (often-recommended, quality, and inexpensive ILF limbs) start out at 16 lbs, as well do as several other brands and models. You can view them, as well as many others, on the Lancaster Archery website (order their free print catalog while you're visiting, for it is an amazing archery resource to have on your desk).

Here's the link to those limbs: http://www.lancasterarchery.com/w-w-sebastian-flute-axiom-plus-recurve-limbs-27800.html

Oft-mentioned, inexpensive, and excellent ILF risers are:

Win & Win SF Forged Plus: http://www.lancasterarchery.com/w-w-sf-forged-plus-25-recurve-riser.html

Hoyt Excel: http://www.lancasterarchery.com/hoyt-excel-recurve-riser.html

Hoyt Horizon: http://www.lancasterarchery.com/hoyt-horizon-25-recurve-riser.html

Hope this gets you started on your quest. Holler back with questions as they arise. 

Good luck.

(Edit: I just looked at some pics of the osmanthus plant ... nifty ... ya larn sumthin' new ever'day!)


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## erotomaniac1928 (Sep 28, 2014)

Thin Man basically said it all. 

Although not ILF, Samick Sage's have limbs as low as 25# and the reputation as a great entry level bow. Also, pick up "Shooting The Stickbow" off 3Rivers or Lancaster Archery. Best advice I've taken off the forum.


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## Daniel L (Nov 23, 2013)

Definitely get the book!

Inexpensive 16# Axiom+ limbs will get you started. I just got a set for my wife and they're excellent value and quality. With ILF you can adjust the poundage to be slightly heavier.

Pity you just missed the Lancaster sales... if you bought a SF Forged riser, you will likely hold onto it for a while and upgrade your limbs as you grow.


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## larry tom (Aug 16, 2012)

Osmanthus, ditto on the Axiom Plus limbs. Another good riser is the Cartel Fathom. Its what I shoot with, so I can vouch for its qualities. Its inexpensive at $130.00 from Lancaster http://www.lancasterarchery.com/cartel-fantom-25-recurve-riser.html Since most ILF risers are 25-inches, I would recommend short limbs for you, but LAS can advise you on that. Regards,Larry


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

O - 

The guys covered a lot of it, but... with your draw length, I'd go with a 23" riser and medium limbs.
That will be the most efficient at your draw.
If in stock, the 23" SF Forged Plus is a great choice, if you're right handed.
The SF Axiom Plus riser is also good, but a little more entry level, sounds like you might be beyond that.
The Hoyt Excel, while a good riser, especially in the trad world, does lack some features if target work is your goal. 
The Axiom limbs are pretty darn hard to beat, until you get to limbs in the $500 range.

Depending on how you are doing with your current set up, 20# limbs may be in order.
ILF rigs do allow a little more than 10% weight adjustment, so you'll have some wiggle room. 

Viper1 out.


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## Corene1 (Apr 27, 2014)

I shoot both the Hoyt horizon and SF forged plus riser. To me the grip in the SF riser fits a smaller hand better and it is balanced a bit better although it is the heaviest of the 3 risers mentioned by a couple of ounces. Are you thinking of going full target set up or shooting non sighted traditional? I have one 25 inch SF riser with 24 pound, short, SF Premium plus carbon limbs . At 25 inch draw it measures right at 19 pounds on the fingers with the limb bolts in the middle of the adjustment range. This is what I started my cousin on and she fits your size description to a Tee. She was able to shoot it quite well, without much fatigue. In my opinion , get the best riser you can afford without going wild. as it will last you a life time and up grade the limbs as you move forward. The Samick sage too is a nice starter bow for the price, but the grip is a bit on the large size for me. And the limbs are non adjustable. Since there are so many combinations out there to choose from it would be best if you could feel them hands on as this is a very personal decision. What one person likes another may not like. For me the SF forged riser is my go to riser. My favorite limbs are Win&Win Winnex , for shooting traditional class, but the SF carbon plus limbs are right there with them for much less money.


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## Osmanthus (Dec 2, 2014)

All,

Thank you so much for your replies and recommendations. I have learned a lot from this forum and now I feel better on what bows, risers, and limbs to check out. It is a bit overwhelming on all the options out there. 

I bought the Nook edition of "Shooting the stickbow" and started reading it, too. I am sure I'll have more questions afterwards. That is viper1's book, correct?

Corene1, yes I have small hands, so thank you for the input about the grip of the SF Forged Plus riser vs the Hoyt Horizon. I am also going for traditional barebow recurve at the moment. 

Viper1, can you elaborate how a 23" riser with medium limbs is more efficient (given my draw length of 25") than a 25" riser with short limbs? 

Thank you so much for teaching this newbie!


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## erotomaniac1928 (Sep 28, 2014)

Keep it everyone updated on what bow you decide on! Good luck


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## SageWoman (Sep 10, 2014)

Hi Osmanthus:

I've been dealing with the same issues. I am an athletic but lightweight female, and I've also struggled to find a bow that is light enough. I took my first few lessons on a bow with an 18 pound draw (furnished by the archery store), then bought a 25# Sage. I've really enjoyed shooting the Sage. It's a very nice bow for the price - tough, inexpensive, and very pleasant to shoot. 

I'm primarily a target shooter. After shooting the Sage for a few months, I bought a nice ILF rig with an expensive set of 28# limbs and a cheap set of 16# limbs for form training. In consideration of my height (5'9") and draw length (28"), I went for the 25" riser with medium limbs. My ILF bow is around 68" in length, in comparison to the 62" Sage. I prefer the longer bow, but the Sage is a lot lighter, and still my choice for "recreational" outdoor shooting and 3-D courses.

My recommendations:

(1) Go with the ILF bow. You've already received some good recommendations with respect to riser and limb choices. One thing I really like about the ILF limbs is that you can (often) buy them in 2# - 5# increments from very light weights (as low as 10#) up to around 50#. 

(2) If you are taking lessons or shooting with a club, keep doing it. I took a few lessons from the local archery store, then went to one of Rod Jenkins' clinics. Highly recommended.

(3) Buy Tony's book ("Shooting the Stickbow"). I also like the "Masters of the Barebow Volume 3" DVD and the Larry Wise "Core Archery" DVD. 

(4) You may already have the "arrow thing" figured out, but this was a major problem for me. I started out shooting 500 spine Beman Bowhunter arrows from the local store. These are great arrows, but are WAY overspined for my bow. You could probably shoot water buffalo with 'em. 

At Rod's clinic, he told me to call John Wert at Lancaster Archery and get some Carbon Express Predator II arrows in a 900 spine. I couldn't find the 900 spine shafts in the catalog, but John determined that the 800 spine should work just fine. They were beyond fine... they were perfect! (Thanks, John! Thanks, Rod!). 

(5) Have fun!


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## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

I have this bow that I learned on and would consider selling if your interested. It is a Howatt Cavalier 26#@28" 62" AMO. Probably around 24# at your draw length. I have some old 1816's, a tab or glove and armguard I could include, get you all set up and ready to shoot.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Osmanthus said:


> Viper1, can you elaborate how a 23" riser with medium limbs is more efficient (given my draw length of 25") than a 25" riser with short limbs?
> 
> Thank you so much for teaching this newbie!


I'd like to know as well. My wife has a 26" draw length, and I was thinking 25" riser with short limbs might be optimal...

One bowyer even suggested extra short limbs with a 25" riser, to get the most out of a shorter draw length.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

O, Barney -

I almost never recommend short limbs to any adult (or anyone over a 20" draw or so). 
Sure you may gain a foot or two per second (literally, a foot ot two), but you'll loose more than that in smoothness and IMHO some stability in the hand. 
There was even a pretty good debate a while aback where some (Olympic) coaches were suggesting a 68" bow comprised of a 23" riser and long limbs over the more standard 25" riser and medium limbs. 

A lot depends on what you're after, if it's every last fps, then you are correct, however for accuracy, the smoother draw and stability of the longer limbs usually wins out. 
How much of a difference it will make might be debated in some circles, but how often do you see short limbs in the Olympics? 

Viper1 out.


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## Beendare (Jan 31, 2006)

SageWoman said:


> Hi Osmanthus:
> 
> I've been dealing with the same issues. I am an athletic but lightweight female, and I've also struggled to find a bow that is light enough. I took my first few lessons on a bow with an 18 pound draw (furnished by the archery store), then bought a 25# Sage. I've really enjoyed shooting the Sage. It's a very nice bow for the price - tough, inexpensive, and very pleasant to shoot.
> 
> ...


Best first post I've seen and excellent advice...............well except for the buffalo part- grin


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## Osmanthus (Dec 2, 2014)

Erotomaniac, yes, I will update once I have bought my bow. It might be some time as I want to read through "Shooting the Stickbow" first and get my 3rd archery pin before buying my own bow (essentially to be a little bit better at archery than where I am now). I also want to get my hands on the various bows recommended here.

SageWoman, thank you so much for writing and for your recommendations. You mentioned that your Samick Sage is lighter than your ILF bow. That is one concern I have as I am not very strong and I have neck and shoulder problems. Are ILF bows (metal risers?) heavier than wooden risers?

As for arrows, I just changed my arrows this week from 1616 Easton Jazz to 1416 Easton Jazz. That seems to work better for me, but I was also taking a lesson, so doing better shot sequence probably improves my shots as well. I'll keep your story in mind when I change bow though.

Centershot, I think your bow might be too heavy for me at the moment. If I decide to get that I'll let you know. Thank you.

Viper1, thank you for your explanation about limbs' sizes. Medium limbs it is for me then. 
If you don't mind more questions: some risers only come in 25", so what will happen if I use a 25" risers with medium limbs? The total bow length will be 66", correct? While a 23" riser with medium limbs will be 64"? Given my height of 63", is 66" bow length too long?

Thank you so much!


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## erotomaniac1928 (Sep 28, 2014)

This chart may help http://www.borderbows.com/uploads/Bowlength Drawlength recommendations.pdf.html


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## Corene1 (Apr 27, 2014)

A 25 inch riser with medium limbs is 68 inches and with short limbs is 66 inches. a 23 inch riser with medium limbs will be 66 inches and with short limbs 64 inches


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

O - 

Like the guys said, a 25" riser and medium limbs would be a 68" bow and while usable, you might loose a little efficiency. I know, it sounds like a balancing act, sorta is. 
I'm still going with the 23" riser and medium limbs for a 66t" bow to get the most comfort, stability and efficiency.

Depending on your budget, the SF Forged Plus is available in a 23" version, as long as you're not a lefty. 
The other option is the used market, eBay and the FITA forum classifieds are good sources and a number of my students have done very well there. 

Viper1 out.


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## SageWoman (Sep 10, 2014)

Osmanthus,

My ILF bow consists of a 25" Win&Win "Winex" riser, plus some inexpensive Samick Privilege limbs (medium length). The riser weighs 2.7 pounds. Not sure about the limbs, but the total weight of the bow is probably around 3.5 pounds. I don't know the weight of the Sage, but it seems to be around 2 pounds or so. 

Although the ILF bow is heavier, I don't really notice the weight when I'm shooting it. The heavier riser tends to make the bow more stable. One of the reasons I've continued to shoot my Sage is that the lighter weight makes it very sensitive to any hand or arm motion (i.e., "torque"). In other words, I'm using the lighter bow to help track down form errors related to my bow hand, arm, and shoulder. 

As Corene1 pointed out, the grip size may also be an important consideration. 

I love shooting my Sage and would have a hard time saying anything "bad" about the bow. However, an ILF bow will give you more options as you progress with your training. Many of the people on this site have recommended the Sebastian Flute Forged Plus riser ($249.99 through Lancaster Archery). This would be an excellent choice. There's also a lot of great (and relatively inexpensive) ILF limbs available. For example, the SF Premium Plus recurve limbs are very nice and will only set you back about $110. 

As a beginning to intermediate-level shooter, I can't really tell any difference between my $400 Win&Win "Winex" limbs and my $89 Samick Privilege limbs, other than the draw weight. The Samick Privilege limbs have some very minor (O.K., nearly imperceptible) blemishes with respect to the finish, but you'd never see 'em if you didn't look closely. 

My recommendations: Buy an ILF bow that is the right SIZE, right DRAW WEIGHT, and doesn't cost a fortune. Work on your form and keep taking lessons.


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## Osmanthus (Dec 2, 2014)

Thank you for patiently answering my questions. 

Let's say I get a 23" riser, with medium limbs. I see that the Axiom Plus and Samick Privilege limbs have 16, 18, 20 lbs draw weight. Which weight should I get?

Those draw weights are at 28" draw length and 25" riser, correct? My draw length is 25" and if my riser is 23", a 20lb set of limbs will be:

20#/ 20 = 1# per inch of draw length, so 17# at 25" draw length, correct? 
The 23" riser will make it heavier? How much does the 2" reduction in riser length add to the draw weight?

Thank you so much!


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## Arrowwood (Nov 16, 2010)

Your understanding is correct - add a pound of draw weight per inch the riser's length is reduced.


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## Arrowwood (Nov 16, 2010)

Also, ideally a retailer would weigh whatever combination you might want.


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## Azzurri (Mar 10, 2014)

Polaris.


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## Osmanthus (Dec 2, 2014)

Arrowwood said:


> Your understanding is correct - add a pound of draw weight per inch the riser's length is reduced.


Thanks Arrowwood. OK, so that will make it 19# at 25" draw length with 23" riser.


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## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

Are you sure you want a bow that light? It will be very difficult to shoot and terribly slow. Are you handling the 19# shop bow ok now? If so, you can get a couple #'s adjustment from most ILF risers. You can turn out the bolts on an Excel for example 5 turns which equal about 4-5#. For a 20# bow on a 23" riser at 25" your limbs will probably max out about 1-2# heavier than listed and will drop down to about 1-2# lighter than listed for a 25" riser. FWIW my 23" Excel riser with 32# SF Axoim Plus limbs maxes out at 36# @ 28" with the bolts full in and can be turned down to 30#. Maybe this will help you get a bow that will grow with you as your shooting muscles develop.


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## Osmanthus (Dec 2, 2014)

centershot said:


> Are you sure you want a bow that light? It will be very difficult to shoot and terribly slow. Are you handling the 19# shop bow ok now? If so, you can get a couple #'s adjustment from most ILF risers. You can turn out the bolts on an Excel for example 5 turns which equal about 4-5#. For a 20# bow on a 23" riser at 25" your limbs will probably max out about 1-2# heavier than listed and will drop down to about 1-2# lighter than listed for a 25" riser. FWIW my 23" Excel riser with 32# SF Axoim Plus limbs maxes out at 36# @ 28" with the bolts full in and can be turned down to 30#. Maybe this will help you get a bow that will grow with you as your shooting muscles develop.


At the beginning (~2 months ago) the range's bow at 19# feels heavy. I think it starts to feel more comfortable now, but I am not sure if I want to go any heavier just yet. I thought a lighter draw weight is also better for form training, and I think that is what I need to concentrate on for now. It will be at least a couple of months before I can buy one though so I might feel differently by then.


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## rambo-yambo (Aug 12, 2008)

I think you should consider Excel as a light weight riser- a 23"riser is less than 2#. If you shoot barebow, you need to add weight to balance it out. After the weight added , it is still less than 3 #.


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## Osmanthus (Dec 2, 2014)

Ordered SF Forged Plus 23" riser, with 20 lbs Axiom Plus limbs. Talked with John Wert at Lancaster Archery and he will set it up for me. He also recommended bow stringer bow weight, and bow string. Looking forward to shooting it! Thank you so much everyone for your help.


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