# Paper Tuning Mathews Switchback



## GATOR-EYE (Jun 30, 2006)

Matt Palmquist said:


> I am getting a left tear with my Switchback and the new Limbdriver Pro. With my Trophy Taker rest I had to move the rest to the right to get a bullet hole. Centershot was 6-8/16", but I did get the bullet hole.
> 
> With the Limbdriver I am unable to move it any further to the right, and I am still getting a left tear. If I move the rest to the left it tears worse, and in the past the only way to correct it was to move it to the right.
> 
> ...



I am not really sure how your measuring center shot. 
Center shot is measured from the inside edge of the riser to the center of the rest or if you have a arrow knocked, to the center of the arrow. 
For a XT you should start at 13/16" and work your way from there.
I had a hard time paper tuning my XT cause of torque issues caused by my hand placement. For me it seemed like the XT was really fussy about hand placement and grip torque. Also you might want to check and make sure your fletchings are clearing the rest.
Just some things for you to look out for before you start twisting cables.

Good luck


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## Takeum (Jul 22, 2005)

I find that Most Switchbacks have a close riser centershot and have had a hard time myself using these Limbdrivers on such bows,,,The forks on these limbdrivers are to wide for most Mathews type bows,,, perhaps they shoud make something that is abit narrower..I had to switch to the trophy ridge dropzone myself.... worked great with that combination,,,


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## loomis (May 20, 2006)

*center shot*

Is 5/8 to 11/16th on this bow,measure at the rest mount hole to the center of the arrow


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## jim j (Feb 1, 2006)

I had the same problem I had to to move my rest in so much to get a bullet hole there was no way it could shoot right so I done the walk back tuneing method and my bow is dead on out to 60+ yards my center shot ended up being 13/16"


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

You can get two flat spring steel launchers for the limb driver. I got them for mine. I also would not be able to use the factory forked launcher, not without putting it to the grinder first anyway. The fall away I took off tuned out to the same spot.


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## dtrkyman (Jul 27, 2004)

check your idler wheel and see if it is straight at full draw,or run a carbon arrow from the idler to where you nok your arrow you should be no further than an 1/8 inch from the string ith the tip of your field point to dead center of the string when laying the arrow flat on the arrow rest side of the idler.if its off you need to press the bow and twist the left side yoke till its set.go to mathews forums and look up vinces tuning methods.


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## Matt Palmquist (Jul 27, 2004)

Thanks for the ideas. It isn't the prongs that is keeping me from moving the LD in, but rather I have ran out of adjustment on the rest itself. 

I will try the walk back tuning. I think that my idler lean is ok, but I will double check. I also realize that many Mathews require the center shot to be towards the riser to tune well, but this bow is just a bit extreme. 

Thanks again for the ideas. 

matt


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

The launcher "rod" for lack of a better description, will move to the right as well, through the main body of the rest. I had the center of the arrow very close to the riser just messing with it. Like 1/2"


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## Matt Palmquist (Jul 27, 2004)

I tried that but couldn't get it to work. How did you go about getting the rod to move and all of the components tightened back together?

Thanks,
Matt


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Hang on a minute.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Loosen both allen head screws that tighten down on the rod, kind have to hang on to everything. One is the spring tension "block"and the other on the part the cable sides through, but not the cable set screw itself. You should be able to slide the rod all the way untill the square part of the rod butts up the the spring tension "block". If the spring tension block slips a little bit you'll just have to re-adjust the tension so the arrow does'nt jump off. Clear as mud right? If this does'nt get you close enough the only other option I see is to put a spacer of some type between the riser and where the rest bolts on.


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## Xtreme Steve (Jan 21, 2005)

*Settin the CS*

I have found that the best measurement for CS on most of the mathews out there is juuuuuuuust about 3/4"-13/16"... The older models you could get a bullet hole out of 3/4", but from what Scott and Wes at The Archery Shop in Pittsfield, IL told us last year, 13/16" is just about perfect... Watch your hand torque... Relaxed grip is better than open hand... Don't choke the riser... You know Yada yada yada


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## BamaBoy (Jul 12, 2005)

red44 said:


> Loosen both allen head screws that tighten down on the rod, kind have to hang on to everything. One is the spring tension "block"and the other on the part the cable sides through, but not the cable set screw itself. You should be able to slide the rod all the way untill the square part of the rod butts up the the spring tension "block". If the spring tension block slips a little bit you'll just have to re-adjust the tension so the arrow does'nt jump off. Clear as mud right? If this does'nt get you close enough the only other option I see is to put a spacer of some type between the riser and where the rest bolts on.


The thing to do is use this technique to get you close to where you think you are going to wind up with the rest aound the niddle of the adjustment range. That will give you room to move either way. I have limb drivers on two drenalins and they tuned fine. That said the arrow rest is about as far as it can go toward the riser without actually hitting the riser.


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## 48down (Jan 9, 2007)

dtrkyman said:


> check your idler wheel and see if it is straight at full draw,or run a carbon arrow from the idler to where you nok your arrow you should be no further than an 1/8 inch from the string ith the tip of your field point to dead center of the string when laying the arrow flat on the arrow rest side of the idler.if its off you need to press the bow and twist the left side yoke till its set.go to mathews forums and look up vinces tuning methods.


I agree with the above. Left tear on a Mathews bow that doesn't go away when adjusting the rest is usually the idler wheel leaning.


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## archer58 in pa (Jan 3, 2007)

Check your axle to axle and make sure that it's the exactly the same on both sides. Mathews bows are ATA sensative.
I had a SW and bad idler lean will cause a tear like you got.
Possibly after installing the limb diver it changed the ATA.
ATA on an XT is 31".


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## Matt Palmquist (Jul 27, 2004)

Thanks for the help. Both sides have an ATA of 33 1/16" at ~67 pounds. I tried to look at the idler wheel when at full draw and it seems to be tracking straight. 

I think I am going to put my TT rest back on, and just except the fact that to get a bullet hole my rest will have to be in towards the riser. 

And them I am going to buy an Elite Synergy and put the limbdriver on. I have been looking to get a Synergy anyways, and this just gives me a good excuse:wink: 

I am going to shoot them both and see which one I like the best. I may keep the switchback and use it for Spot and Stalk because the two piece quiver is weighted very well. 

Thanks again for all of the help and advice. 

Matt


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Matt, have a read thru this. http://www.lawleroutdoors.com/Artic... Tuning&Call=Hunting/Hunting.asp?Game=Archery In particular the paper tuning and what he says about left tears and cable yoke twists. Read the fine print, basicly don't go over a 1/16 of an inch different on ATA side to side. He also gives other tips on what might be contributing to the left tears and how to help eliminate them.


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## Matt Palmquist (Jul 27, 2004)

Thanks for the link.

Matt


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