# Hoyt Cam Sync and Draw Stop Timing Question



## dfrey (May 31, 2006)

Max your bow in lbs. less 1/4 turn per limb,set tiller even and draw stops hitting at same time.Once this done cams will be in sync. Per Javi's post.


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## TMan51 (Jan 25, 2004)

JAVI's comments are a bit enigmatic in that post, and I think you need some practice to appreciate the situation.

*MOST* of the time, you'll find that timed precisely, with the limbs bottomed out, that the bow will be both synced and timed properly. But there are shooting styles and equipment that may require some minor changes. I find that all of my bows are going to shoot nock high, unless I ****** the top cam. They are not synced, but the timing is on the money, in that they both recover with minimum nock travel and deflection.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

I have personally spoken with Javi and he will be the first to admit he is not adept at writing manuals, books or whatever. Tman51 in correct in this regard and of, each bow being a little different, needing tweaked to get the results one wants.

Probably what is messing with your mind are the timing mark/timing holes and reality of that they are only reference points. In other words, they are not exact. My Hoyts and Martin bows are what I call perfectly synced/timed, but the timing marks are off if you don't understand that they are only reference points. One bow, a Hoyt, has the string crossing the timing hole slightly before and the top string is slightly after the timing hole. My fault here - I should show a picture as "my" before and after may be backwards of someone looking at them.


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## Reverend (Nov 2, 2004)

*Timing vs. Synch*

Although I would also like clarification on this "timing vs. synch" I believe it has to do with the bottom cam taking up more string. So in reality when both cams are "timed" (maybe not the right term), meaning that they both hit the stops at the same time at full draw, you can still have errant flight because one cam is taking up more string when fired. This, it would seem to me, would cause your arrow to hit either nock high, or nock low. Some would refer to this as unlevel, or non-level nock travel. This is probably why some guys mistime their cams on purpose, or else adjust tiller where it is not even... to compensate for that nock travel. 

Although it is probably a small percentage of people that do this, sometimes equipment choice, bow set-up and shooting style require this...

Someone else please chime in and correct this, as I'm not 100% sure on terminology or theory...


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## OrangeBlood (Jan 12, 2009)

*I too have been confused on this issue*

In my head if I have my draw stops hitting perfect at the same time, I would think the cams would be in sync. If I have to adjust (twist/untwist) for cam sync doesn't that throw off the draw stops?


OR, maybe I take a twist out of the buss here & add a twist to the control there to adjust the sync. Give & take kind of concept to keep my draw stops good?


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

I understood javi's thread that since they are not a twin cam (mirror image of ech other) but more of a single cam with a modified idler, they they let out or take up at different rates or speeds. Sync would indicate that that rate or speed is correct, and draw stop timing is that the cycle hits the end at the same time.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

red44 said:


> I understood javi's thread that since they are not a twin cam (mirror image of ech other) but more of a single cam with a modified idler, they they let out or take up at different rates or speeds. Sync would indicate that that rate or speed is correct, and draw stop timing is that the cycle hits the end at the same time.


Correct. The top cam, by what javi told me, is more of a oval wheel.
I not sure, but I believe Darton came out with the true new breed double cam, mirror image cams. I think they call it the 2 1/2 cam system.


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## TMan51 (Jan 25, 2004)

mkeyes001 said:


> In my head if I have my draw stops hitting perfect at the same time, I would think the cams would be in sync. If I have to adjust (twist/untwist) for cam sync doesn't that throw off the draw stops?


Consider this. The grip is designed for the "average" hand. But some of us shoot high wrist, most shoot a low wrist. Guys with big hands, do not have a center of pressure at the same place, as a guy with small hands. To a modest extent, timing and tiller are responsive to the differences when it comes to placing more/less stress on the bow limb.

When my bows are checked for timing the top cam appears under-rotated, but when I draw for a shot, my daughter tells me that the cable alignment is perfect. 

That's the difference between perfect setup, and optimal tuning. But it's pretty important to start with the correct setup.


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## vulcan320 (Feb 15, 2009)

TMan51 said:


> Consider this. The grip is designed for the "average" hand. But some of us shoot high wrist, most shoot a low wrist. Guys with big hands, do not have a center of pressure at the same place, as a guy with small hands. To a modest extent, timing and tiller are responsive to the differences when it comes to placing more/less stress on the bow limb.
> 
> When my bows are checked for timing the top cam appears under-rotated, but when I draw for a shot, my daughter tells me that the cable alignment is perfect.
> 
> That's the difference between perfect setup, and optimal tuning. But it's pretty important to start with the correct setup.


Very nicely said.


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## wblackfin (Nov 28, 2006)

vulcan320 said:


> Very nicely said.


+1

For those still figuring this stuff out.
This is where the modified creep tuning comes into play.


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