# Easton RECURVE/LONGBOW HUNTING Arrow Selection Chart



## Eldermike (Mar 24, 2009)

All bows not being equal, it would be logical to make all chart starting points on the high side, for safety reasons. To me charts are not meant to show us ideal spine and weight but should get you in the right ball park in the safest possible way. Just my opinion


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## stew (Jun 15, 2005)

I did not see Easton as one of the sponsors here, so would be curious to see what others think of Easton's arrow chart for Recurve & Longbows.[/QUOTE]

The Easton Chart as well as others are waaaaayyyyy off. The best chart I have ever found for traditional equipment is the one on Arrows by Kelly web site. Now Foxfire archery.


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## Two Blade (Jul 13, 2008)

Some here will disagree with me but......Eastons chart says that I should be shooting a 2018 out of my 45# Hoyt Dorado. I have tried 1816's, 1916's and 2016's and they are all weak. A 28.5" 2018 with a 100 grain point gives me a great performing arrow.


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

Well I got chided here recently for suggesting that a particular arrow spine would have worked for a particular bow... and the deal is this....

The easton charts are fine. The easton charts measure SPINE period. What I have learned from my newly gained experience with this, my trials with my two new recurves that I was/am building up to shoot off the shelf, and my own instincts, it turns out, is this.

A proper spined arrow for a bow with shelf/handle/hand that *points* the arrow towards the strong side of the arrow.... that being in my own vernacular.. that if your arrow is shot off the left side of the bow, a stiff spine will keep it flying to the left, and a weak one, will allow it to bend around and fly to the right, will fly left. 

Proper spine keeps it flying where it is launched, and if the shelf/handle/hand forces the arrow to the left by its geometry, it will exaggerate that launch and keep the arrow flying left.

The more your arrow moves away from centershot, which by the way, the Easton Charts refer, the more you have to "weaken" the arrow to allow it to bend back around to hit the target accurately.

I am of the OPINION that one should "weaken" the arrow rather than buy weaker arrows to accomodate this, and further, I am of the OPINION that if you build a bow with a rotund sort of handle, you may NEVER get it to shoot properly regardless of the arrow spine.

These are my OPINIONS, owned solely by myself and my other resident personalities, and represent our collective wisdom now on display for your pleasure.  

 :beer:


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

TBM -

Try this and save your self a lot of headaches:

http://www.shootingthestickbow.com/rich_text_3.html

Viper1 out.


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

Viper1 said:


> TBM -
> 
> Try this and save your self a lot of headaches:
> 
> ...


Not that I use aluminum, carbon, or any other not wood arrow shafting, so I'm not very cognizant of details, but how does this chart manage the issues of riser thickness versus centershot?

Aloha... Tom  :beer:


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Tom -

The arrows listed will be tunable over a range of about 10# each, that should be within a tunable range, using the basic parameters of brace height and centershot*) for most bows in the bracket provided. As stated, it's not meant to give "THE" arrow for a given bow, it's meant to provide a tunable (aka usable) arrow. As the shooter progresses, it's his tuning that will narrow down the field.

*regarding centershot, those numbers are based on the old (pre 1983) Easton charts and about 40 years of experience. Since back then, only a few target bows were full centershot, so the arrows are intentionally slightly weak. That means that a slight build out of the strike plate is all that should be required for an adequate tune. 

BTW - the worse case scenario, a Hill style longbow, will still be tunable with those shafts, but certainly not optimal. 

Viper1 out.


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

Thanks Viper.... 

Aloha....  :beer:


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