# Hoyt Timing Holes



## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

You don't have the cams in time.


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## Spotshooter2 (Oct 23, 2003)

What Brown Hornet said. My 05 Protec at rest the holes lined up perfectly but at full draw they were out of time . As you said if you let up even a little it wants to rip it out of your hand. I put mine on a crank board to set the timing at full draw. To me this is the only way to do it. Get them in time at full draw and your problem will be solved plus it will lessen hand shock and noise level also. At least it did on my Protec.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

A crank board is the best way to set the timming. It can be done without one. It isn't easy to get it perfect without one. I don't use one but you need alot of practice and have to know what you are doing.


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

*see here*

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=198531


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## Mark250 (Dec 4, 2003)

Can you tell or show me what a crank board looks like?


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## Spotshooter2 (Oct 23, 2003)

Click on the link , it shows how one person made theirs. 
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=196712&highlight=timing+board


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## ktrazz (Apr 24, 2005)

I just went through the same stuff with my new 04 ultratech, cam 1/2. The cams are timed on the money at full draw using the crank board. At rest the timing wholes are not perfect. Do I care? NO! I don't shoot the bow at rest. Full draw is what matters.


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## danger (Jan 27, 2005)

There seems to be a confilct of cables with the hoyt. Unless Javi can help me it seems that you get EITHER sync (holes matching) or timing (draw stop). I can not get both, if I twist the control cable to make the holes closer, the cams are underrotaed at full draw. 

I am getting very frustrated. 

Dan


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

danger said:


> There seems to be a confilct of cables with the hoyt. Unless Javi can help me it seems that you get EITHER sync (holes matching) or timing (draw stop). I can not get both, if I twist the control cable to make the holes closer, the cams are underrotaed at full draw.
> 
> I am getting very frustrated.
> 
> Dan


You have a PM with my phone number... call and I'll walk you through it...


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## atlasmlc (Nov 2, 2002)

Javi,
Your rough draft of "Sync and Timing 101" was spot on for me. The job was much easier and saved me a lot of aggravation. Nice work.


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## MKD (Feb 8, 2003)

I was told if the string stays between the lines on the cams everything should be in time. I have never heard anyone ever mention these reference marks when talking about tuning the cams. Both cams have these marks but I attached only on picture of the cams. So my question is if the string is between these marks are the cams in tune? Thanks


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

MKD said:


> I was told if the string stays between the lines on the cams everything should be in time. I have never heard anyone ever mention these reference marks when talking about tuning the cams. Both cams have these marks but I attached only on picture of the cams. So my question is if the string is between these marks are the cams in tune? Thanks


Not necessarily... the bow will shoot fairly well with the cams close to sync, but better with them in sync and in draw stop time...


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## MKD (Feb 8, 2003)

JAVI said:


> Not necessarily... the bow will shoot fairly well with the cams close to sync, but better with them in sync and in draw stop time...


 Well maybe I will have to put one of those timing boards together and follow your instructions. Thanks for the info.


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## buck knife (Mar 1, 2004)

I've been trying to learn as much as i can on the timing issue with the hoyt cam.5,and its been helpfull.

If the brace and a to a measurements are close,and the string and cables lay somewhere over those timing marks at full draw,then the cam.5 should be optimized?


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## JayMc (Jan 4, 2005)

buck knife said:


> If the brace and a to a measurements are close,and the string and cables lay somewhere over those timing marks at full draw,then the cam.5 should be optimized?


I don't see how it couldn't be if there isn't cam lean or some other non-cam tuning problem. We'll see what Javi says


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

JayMc said:


> I don't see how it couldn't be if there isn't cam lean or some other non-cam tuning problem. We'll see what Javi says



Because of the design of the hybrid cams, if the cables are within the reference marks or holes the bow will shoot reasonably well. It is not however optimized. Because of the control (slave) cable it is very possible to have the timing marks centered on the holes and the cams out of draw stop time, and visa versa. I’ve had many bows in my hands that were hitting the draw stops at the same time… but the cams were several twists out of sync. This is possible because the control cable slaves the two cams together but not in a symmetrical manner. The cable is on an eccentric peg for the top cam and the bottom cam is a round track. 

This often the reason that many say the regular cam & ½ doesn’t have the firm wall of the spiral; if the cams are not timed and in sync the feel will be soft or even mushy. If done properly, the fell will be a rock hard wall….

Another note: if the cams are not in sync the tiller will not be even… and the nock travel will not be level...


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## JayMc (Jan 4, 2005)

That makes sense Javi. The timing on my Hoyt was a tad off and we added a twist to "optimize" it. The wall was noticably firmer, but I didn't know why at the time. Thanks.


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## buck knife (Mar 1, 2004)

Thanks,That clears everything up,tonight i'm going to the shop to get it timed right,that solid wall is there somewhere.lol :thumbs_up


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## Jabwa (Dec 10, 2004)

Javi walked me through it, and it is really quite easy once you understand. If you look at the Cam.5 as a unicam with the string separated at the top (control cable and string) it starts to make sense- at least it did to me. The advantage over a uni is that it has a cam at the top rather than an idler and so, should be faster.


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## MKD (Feb 8, 2003)

*Timing holes*

Ok hope I will not make an $$s of myself with this question. I was reading the book that came with my Hoyt and it mentioned the timing holes just as Javi has stated on this thread. But here is my question. Where is the timing hole located on the top cam of my 2003 Dynatec. :embarasse I have attached a picture of the top cam and the page from the manual.


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

MKD said:


> Ok hope I will not make an $$s of myself with this question. I was reading the book that came with my Hoyt and it mentioned the timing holes just as Javi has stated on this thread. But here is my question. Where is the timing hole located on the top cam of my 2003 Dynatec. :embarasse I have attached a picture of the top cam and the page from the manual.


The '03 cams have marks (lines) and your cable is spliting them .....


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## MKD (Feb 8, 2003)

JAVI said:


> The '03 cams have marks (lines) and your cable is spliting them .....


Thank you. The manual never mentioned these marks. Sorry for all the stupid questions


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## Warlocke (May 8, 2004)

> I have all of the spec measurments withing a 1/16" and the timing looks perfect to me. Only problem is that the cable on the bottom cam is not lining up with the timing hole. Additionally, the bow seems more difficult to keep at full draw, with the slightest relax the bow comes out of the 'valley' and lurches forward.


I have a similar problem to this, I have everyting to spec but the Buss cable is not covering any part of the timing hole on the bottom cam.

Top cam is perfect as is the AtA, B/H and D/L.

Timing is spot on at full draw, limb bolts bottomed, "E" cams set in the "D" position for 29".

How important is the alignment over the bottom cam timing hole?


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## Jabwa (Dec 10, 2004)

The cams should match in the relaxed position. Twisting or untwisting the control cable moves the two cams in opposite directions, so this is the one that gets the two cams in "synch". Once you get them in "synch" in the relaxed position, you may need to twist or untwist the buss cable (the one with the yoke) to adjust timing at full draw, but probably not much. This is all really much easier than it sounds!


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## Deezlin (Feb 5, 2004)

I don't own a hoyt, they are fine bows but just a point. Any double cam bow has to be timed for optima at full draw. I usually try to get the static tuning close, get equal tiller measurements and then set the nock bow about 1/8 over square. Then I paper tune, when I shoot the bow through paper I adjust one cable or the other until it bullet holes. I then sight and creep tune.


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## Jabwa (Dec 10, 2004)

Deezlin:

With twin cams you try to optimize the timing at both full draw and in the relaxed position. With the Cam.5 you can get both perfect. To me, this is the major advantage of a Cam.5 over a twin cam.


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