# Hinge release click vs no click, but don't want the same discussion



## eholguin13 (Nov 3, 2006)

I went from shooting the click for years to no click 9 months ago. I was consistent with the click and it did not make me flinch. What I did do though is not really start my shot till I reached the click. I think this is why we get away with such a light trigger when using a click. My mind was using it like a safety or sorts. I would also loose back tension because I start to pull then stop at the click then continue to fire the bow. Without the click I no longer have the anticipation of the click and shoot with my release at a much heavier setting. It makes it easier for me to start my pull and finish in one constant flowing motion. Hope this helps its all I have on this subject for you.


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

You need to do my hinge setup routine and firing sequence with your click release, give me a pm if you are interested. Just listening to your post tells me you would like it.


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## pwyrick (Feb 13, 2011)

Padgett said:


> You need to do my hinge setup routine and firing sequence with your click release, give me a pm if you are interested. Just listening to your post tells me you would like it.


 Please share with all.
I've gone from click to no-click and back to click. Without the click, I eventually begin to crank the release instead of being patience with process. For me, the click sets the release and my mind at the ready position. Then its just aim and increase pressure. I don't experience any urge to manipulate the release. I would like to not need the click. But, this is my reality and it works for me.


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## bfelver (May 13, 2012)

have used my release both way . I to would get to feeling i would flinch with the clicker but in reality i was focusing more on the click . I like with out a clicker alot better and dont have that problem. Reading ur post i feel ur not relaxing ur hand . How do i want to say this and make since . When drawing the bow u want to focus using pressure on ur pointer finger with just thumb touching the peg . After ur anchored and set take ur thumb and ur pinky and act like ur going to touch them together behind the release .This will equal the pressure on the release . Because when u squeeze ur back muscles and pulling. That action actually cause ur hand to rotate setting the release off . U will shot with a heavier setting on the release then what ur use to but it will not seam like it and u will be consent every time . Have been down the same road u are hope this helps u out


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## archeryshooter (Apr 11, 2004)

WhitBri said:


> I know this topic has been beat to death. I have searched and read the posts so I don't need the repeat.
> I am now to the point that I use the same bow and release for all my shooting, 3d and indoor target. I swiched aiming point from dot to fiber and use the same lens and scope size. Trying to make everything seamless.
> Now to the hinge questions. I have always shot my hinge without the click. Some problems in my shot sequence I have from time to time is that I get the shot that just won't go off from time to time, working on letting those down, also get the wow that one went off quick. These happen more often on the 3d course on the up and downhill shots. Would learning to use the release with the click help these?
> I have tried my HT3 with the click and it will go fine for awhile then the click with make me flinch. I have two releases and set both up the same one with and one without the click. But I think I need to speed up the one with the click to use it correctly. Seems to take too long to get to the click.
> ...


I to used to shoot without the clicker but i use it now and hunt with it ive shot 9 deer with it but anyway i draw and as i anchor it clicks as i settle in then i start my aim and so on. i have it set so my finger pressure is equal when i draw it allows me to keep my wrist straight and my hand is not fisted but fingers are straight. i dont have those supprises anymore when im not ready that can cost points. thats what works for me


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## Praeger (Jan 7, 2011)

WhitBri said:


> My shot sequece with the click is draw, anchor and release thumb peg, pre aim (get dot to bull), pull to click, aim, gone. I guess my question on it is, should I be pre aiming. I feel like I pre aim, and the click pulls me off the bull too much then I have to get it back to the bull and its interupting my shot sequence and making me hesitate.


I think you have identified the problem. Eliminate the "pre-aim", it just eats up time. Draw, settle into anchor (I drop my thumb off the peg and get to the click while settling into the anchor and don't consider it a separate step), aim, apply back tension, bang. When coaching, I teach not to think of these as steps. Rather, phases - one flowing into the next without interruption or pause. This is particularly important when beginning to aim. As your dot/pin settles into the slow float - you should already be applying back tension. If anything breaks this flow (distraction, tremor, wind gust, etc . . .) let down. Recovery techniques come later.

Envision a graph where the line rises with BT, and moves to the right at a fixed rate as seconds pass. Strive to move that line in a smooth slope without plateaus, dips, or jags. This line will pass through the point at which the release dumps, and that would be an image of a clean release.


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## WhitBri (Jan 30, 2007)

Have been working on the release with the click after a guy I shoot with and respect told me not to go backwards to no click. I set the release much faster then it was without the click. Now I draw, get to anchor release thumb peg and click (all about the same time), apply BT while aiming and boom. Feel like I'm getting a great surprise release still and also speeding up the time I'm at full draw and making the time I'm back there much more consistent, two things I've always felt were lacking in my shot. Now on to fixing my bow arm shoulder that has a tendency to creep up on me, and also make sure to keep my release hand relaxed. 
Feels good to be working out these problems. I think results will follow


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## super* (Jan 26, 2008)

no click because then your not telling your brain that the shot is almost ready to break and with out a click your shots are much smoother and more relaxed. Less brain games.


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## STRICNINE (Oct 22, 2012)

I use the click to ensure I keep my wrist straight when I draw as I have the hinge set hot, I guess a safety. Once I anchor I have already reached the click. I then relax my index finger as I pull....bang. 

I spend a lot of time trying to ensure that I do the same thing every time, seems to be the toughest part. lol


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## 3dshooter25 (Nov 17, 2008)

I use a click with my HT Pro but it all depends on what you have the most confidence in. If the click causes any anticipation, I would not use it. You can shoot well with either one, but your personality type and confidence level will determine what you need to use.


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## AONeil22 (Nov 22, 2011)

Its all what you feel the most comfortable with. I know that I shoot better without the click because its more simple to me. hold on the target and pull. Sometimes I think for some people the click is psychological and makes their mind go crazy.


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## super* (Jan 26, 2008)

AONeil22 said:


> Its all what you feel the most comfortable with. I know that I shoot better without the click because its more simple to me. hold on the target and pull. Sometimes I think for some people the click is psychological and makes their mind go crazy.


x2!


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## schmel_me (Dec 17, 2003)

Another huge thing to remember is making your shot fluid. Meaning once you start you release dont stop unless it takes to long and you abort. That is where i struggled with the click is i would start aiming to early in my shot and get jerky or start stop start stop. Click just wasnt for me even tho i shot one for years.


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## slicer (Dec 18, 2008)

Here's what my hinge shooting has morphed into:

One set up to hit click at anchor, just hold on target and relax....POW.....Indoor/aim,aim, aim release

Other one set up very cold and shot with active rotation and no click......Outdoor execution, execution, execution release.


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## field14 (May 21, 2002)

WhitBri said:


> I know this topic has been beat to death. I have searched and read the posts so I don't need the repeat.
> I am now to the point that I use the same bow and release for all my shooting, 3d and indoor target. I swiched aiming point from dot to fiber and use the same lens and scope size. Trying to make everything seamless.
> Now to the hinge questions. I have always shot my hinge without the click. Some problems in my shot sequence I have from time to time is that I get the shot that just won't go off from time to time, *working on letting those down, also get the wow that one went off quick. These happen more often on the 3d course on the up and downhill shots. * Would learning to use the release with the click help these?
> I have tried my HT3 with the click and it will go fine for awhile then the click with make me flinch. I have two releases and set both up the same one with and one without the click. But I think I need to speed up the one with the click to use it correctly. Seems to take too long to get to the click.
> ...


Personally, I do not shoot with a "click" on my trip gate releases. I have done so, and did well...for awhile. My personality and psyche just don't mesh with the "click" on a trip gate release; even though while I was shooting recurve and fingers, I was a "clicker Slave"...go figure, haha. However, to click or not to click really is inconsequential with regard to your problem....read on.

I did not read all the posts, but caught what is in RED above and will comment on this. Your problem is very common for people shooting a trip gate release (or any release, for that matter), so you aren't alone.
First off, the problem is likely the need of a tweaking of the draw length setting on your BOW, or tweaking the length of your d-loop. Doesn't take much to really throw you off on uphill and downhill shots.
Secondly, so few archers are "ProActive" these days and don't PRACTICE those very conditions...uphill, dowhnill, toes pointed up, toes pointed down (for side hill shots); they don't practice with one foot higher than the other either. So, when those conditions hit them on a field or 3-D course, they aren't prepared to handle it. They don't know their own tendencies and will fall flat on their faces score-wise.
Third, most people are setting their trip-gate releases too "fast", which leads them to tend to come in at various "to-anchor drawlengths". That is to say, one time you come 'into' the stops. The next time you are "INTO" the stops. Then you are "hard into" the stops; then you are :HARD into" the stops. My research clearly indicates that most mid-to upper level shooters vary their "to anchor" drawlength from shot to shot, end to end by as much as....1/2"; all the while thinking they are "pulling to the stops the same every time." They will swear by this...until they are actually checked for it and they are shown the marks on a measuring arrow that shows them clearly that they are NOT consistent at all.
1 mm harder or softer into the stops increases or decreases your holding weight by 1#....imagine this when you are trying to shoot for babyX's on a Vegas face and wondering why you are all around the babyX...or on a NFAA blue face and you are all around that X, too. Add the elements of uphill and down hill, sidehils, angles...an incorrectley set draw length, and lack of practice to learn how YOU handle these situations, and it becomes ovbious for the reasons behind the dilemma you and so many others are facing.
"ProActive Archery" covers these things in detail; may well be worth your while to get a copy and learn something about becoming "ProActive". Tuning your stance to your draw length, and your draw length to your stance is only a small part of becoming "ProActive". Practicing ProActively for outdoor Shooting; practicing ProActively for Indoor shooting and on and on.

I would suspect that your two main issues are the drawlength (and to anchor drawlength inconsistencies), and the release being set a bit too "hot". Then comes not knowing how you react to uphill and downhill shots as a result of not practicing it when even if your range doesn't have those kinds of shots...you can practice this just the same...if you are ProActive.

field14 (Tom D.)


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## WhitBri (Jan 30, 2007)

Just ordered your book the other day. Will be interested to read


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## field14 (May 21, 2002)

WhitBri said:


> Just ordered your book the other day. Will be interested to read


Thanks for the support. If you could be so kind, would you go into Amazon and write a Customer Review once you've had a chance to read some of the book? The book isn't so much the "WHAT" to do, but rather a "how to do it" format. This from someone that learned things by tripping and stumbling and keeping eyes and ears open, along with paying attention to what was going on around him. I didn't/don't have the kind of talent of the top guns, so had to do it through sheer hard work and figuring out how "I" had to do things to get half-way decent results.

Enjoy the read, and the "little things" that can make so much of a difference for you.

field14 (Tom D.)


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## WhitBri (Jan 30, 2007)

Tom that is what I hope to find it. I'm what I would call a good shoot 300 48x average on a 5 spot face looking to eventually make it to the 60x mark. It's just the small things and the stuff between the ears left for me I think to get there


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## Callo21 (Feb 4, 2007)

I'm no pro by no means, but my release is set up right now that it clicks almost as soon as I anchor. The. I start my shot sequence.


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## carbonkiller (Mar 14, 2012)

I am no Pro my but you shoot a New Breed


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

I shoot both smooth and with a click every day, Today I shot two back to back 5-spot rounds and on my second round I switched hinges every 5 shots and I shot a 59x. To me once you get past all of the issues that exist in shooting a hinge you can use any popular method out there and shoot well.

Me personally I had early success with my hinge that has a click but I didn't give up on the hinge with a smooth moon. I use it every day and right now I actually prefer shooting with the smooth moon hinge because it just seems effortless and sweet. In fact I am probably going to shoot the iowa proam with my smooth moon if my next few days of training go as good as I think they are going to.

The first time I posted on this thread a while back I mentioned my hinge setup routine and I still believe that it is the one thing that will get you rollling quicker shooting a hinge than anything else, pick either a smooth one or a clicker one or better yet get one of each and do my hinge setup routine and you will take months of suffering out of the transformation into a hinge shooter. If you want it just pm.


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## Callo21 (Feb 4, 2007)

carbonkiller said:


> I am no Pro my but you shoot a New Breed


Don't u have a genetix to build...


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