# What size blade for my arrows?



## mpex (Apr 28, 2012)

Just ordered a AAE Pro rest. I shoot 2 different arrows: GT Triple X and GT Ultralight Pro 500's. Do I need 2 different blades? If not, which one? If so which ones?

Thanks!


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## IsHeBreathing? (Feb 11, 2011)

What's the weight on em. 

.008 for less than 325
.010 for 325-425
.012 for over 425.


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## mpex (Apr 28, 2012)

Triple X is around 444
Ultralight is around 290

Do I need 2? Are they easy to switch out?


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## schmel_me (Dec 17, 2003)

Most def. the xxx's I would run at .010 wide or standard which ever you prefer. They will both tune good with xxx shaft. The 500's I would run a standard .008.


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## schmel_me (Dec 17, 2003)

Your borderline with .010 with 444 grain shaft. Are the xxx's for indoor?


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## mpex (Apr 28, 2012)

XXX are for indoor. Ultralights are for 3D. Not sure what I'm going to use for outdoor. I'm wondering if the Ultralight 500's will work for that. I have 2.5" X-vanes on them.


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## bigHUN (Feb 5, 2006)

I play with the springsteel for long time and I can confirm all these work different, not the blade thickness or shape but the recovery time (from oscillation) is more important for arrow flight, and that is in material properties, it is not visible....
best I can recommend start with 2-3 and swap them around you will see what fits you best....
Many people struggle in the beginning and crying as "the arrow falls off the blade" but if you just decent consistent to draw and letoff smooth even the narrowest blade will work as a good start.


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## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

The weight of the shaft at rest doesn't really matter- at full draw a large portion of that weight is no longer on the blade. Blade angle is much more important as is overall rest position front/back, left/right, and up/down. You need to setup the rest so that at rest the arrow is running low through the Berger button or the rest needs to be setup at full draw. 

Start with a .008 and see how the xxx's group- run a standard blade or narrow blade, don't run a wide blade. The .008 at stock blade angle will be a bit weak on it's own depending on how you run nock height and cam timing/sync. If the groups are a bit open or you have flyers try a standard .010 at a touch below the stock blade angle. I would cut the wide blades down and use them as backers or kicker- a .008 with a .010 backer will work very well for both the ul's and the xxx's- it will take a little tweaking to get blade angle set right to get good results with both arrows but it is easily doable.


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## Ned250 (Aug 10, 2009)

N7709K said:


> *The weight of the shaft at rest doesn't really matter-* at full draw a large portion of that weight is no longer on the blade. Blade angle is much more important as is overall rest position front/back, left/right, and up/down. You need to setup the rest so that at rest the arrow is running low through the Berger button or the rest needs to be setup at full draw.
> 
> Start with a .008 and see how the xxx's group- run a standard blade or narrow blade, don't run a wide blade. The .008 at stock blade angle will be a bit weak on it's own depending on how you run nock height and cam timing/sync. If the groups are a bit open or you have flyers try a standard .010 at a touch below the stock blade angle. I would cut the wide blades down and use them as backers or kicker- a .008 with a .010 backer will work very well for both the ul's and the xxx's- it will take a little tweaking to get blade angle set right to get good results with both arrows but it is easily doable.


This. Don't go by weight of arrow = x.xx blade. There's way more to it than that as N7709K and bigHUN pointed out.

I'm shooting a .008 narrow with my GT XXX @ 496gr and it's shooting the best I've ever had it. I am running my nock 1/8" above center of berger hole and set up the blade angle at 35 degrees on the DS Advantage. Get the arrow level and just kissing the blade with no weight on it - use nuts n bolts kitchen table or a tiny cutoff shaft to get there. 

I was having a hell of a time getting bare shafts to hit with fletched when I put the blade on at first. No matter what I did, the arrow came out too nock high. I decided to hit the reset button and set it up as described above and they were 2 vertical clicks off (.004") from perfect. The bow is super forgiving now.


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## IsHeBreathing? (Feb 11, 2011)

Dang it. I just bought blades cause most everywhere shows to go by weight like I posted above.


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## Camp (May 30, 2010)

borderline with .010 with 444 grain


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## Kstigall (Feb 24, 2004)

I have been running .010 with my 500+ grain indoor arrows and .008 for 320 grain 3D arrows. Both blades are regular width. The blade angle is less than other folks I've seen including Pro's. I have a short draw and the previous setups are on a PSE Supra and Phenom.

I'd use .010's for the heavy arrow and .008 for the light arrow. Play with the blade angle to weaken or strengthen the dynamic stiffness of the blade.

As a side note, some years ago I shot my first 60 X indoor game using an .012 blade with a .012 backer plate. So there are more than one way to get it done.


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## mpex (Apr 28, 2012)

So are we just looking for a good tune? I can tell you through paper, with the .010 and the angle it came with, the 500's tuned absolutely perfect and the Tri-X's were almost perfect. When I say perfect, I have never seen anything like this. The flectching holes looked like they had been cut with scissors and the hole was a perfect circle.


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## bowhunter247365 (Apr 21, 2010)

I run A .010 wide for everything. I know a lot of guys that shoot a wide blade with micro size arrows.


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## acesbettor (Mar 19, 2009)

N7709K said:


> The weight of the shaft at rest doesn't really matter- at full draw a large portion of that weight is no longer on the blade. Blade angle is much more important as is overall rest position front/back, left/right, and up/down. You need to setup the rest so that at rest the arrow is running low through the Berger button or the rest needs to be setup at full draw.
> 
> Start with a .008 and see how the xxx's group- run a standard blade or narrow blade, don't run a wide blade. The .008 at stock blade angle will be a bit weak on it's own depending on how you run nock height and cam timing/sync. If the groups are a bit open or you have flyers try a standard .010 at a touch below the stock blade angle. I would cut the wide blades down and use them as backers or kicker- a .008 with a .010 backer will work very well for both the ul's and the xxx's- it will take a little tweaking to get blade angle set right to get good results with both arrows but it is easily doable.


This!! I run almost a 600 gr 2712 indoors with a .008 blade with great results.


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## tostra1 (Jan 24, 2013)

bowhunter247365 said:


> I run A .010 wide for everything. I know a lot of guys that shoot a wide blade with micro size arrows.


Could you give any tuning insight to this? I would love to run a .010 wide with micro OD arrows for 3D but I am fighting vane contact.


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## bowhunter247365 (Apr 21, 2010)

tostra1 said:


> Could you give any tuning insight to this? I would love to run a .010 wide with micro OD arrows for 3D but I am fighting vane contact.


nock height and blade angle have to be correct.


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