# Round wheels vs cams with hard wall



## Unclegus (May 27, 2003)

I sure wish someone who shoots cams would answer your question. I've not shot cams myself because I just don't think I can do it with a clicker. I'm also anxious to find out if small variation in finger pressure really screws up arrow flight with cams. I've seen a couple of people who shoot the cams holding with just one finger that shoot indoors very well. I wonder if this has grown out of necessity? I'm a round wheel/deflex riser/long bow/feather fletch guy until someone shows me something else works better...


----------



## cobowhntr (Jan 1, 2005)

*cams*

I've pretty much shot cams for the last 12 years & I have not had any problem. I like the short valley/hard wall over the soft wall. I try to employ back pressure & find that it is hard to do if I can pull through the wall. I currently am shooting an Old Glory & really like the draw stop as it makes it much easier use back tension & relax my fingers.
I was shooting a Cam 1/2(Ultratec xt3000 limbs) & found it similiar but I culd pull slightly pass the wall but it was hard enough & gave enough resitance that my release was very consitant.
I have found that Brace Height has more of an effect than AtA. I shot a 6 1/2 bh for a while & I could really have some tuff days if I wasn't spot on. I typically look for bows in the 38"-41" ata with a 7 1/2" + bh.
I have gone to shooting 2 under & dropping the top finger for consitancy,(less contact w/the string) & found it really helps w/any finger pinch. I tinkered w/one finger but found that the pressure was to much & I wasn't confident using that method so I haven't persued it further.
Well, I hope this helps or answers some of your ?'s
Oh & welcome to the tribe.:wink:


----------



## wind in face (Apr 29, 2003)

I have a conquest2 with the maxcam, and hoyts with wheels.
I can drive tacks, arrow after arrow with the wheel bows. The maxcam is a whole lot of uncomfortable. 
I like the power of the maxcam,,but my fingers and shoulders ask why?
I cant even come close to matching the accuracy of the wheels as compared to the maxcam. I am sure someone could, but it aint me!


----------



## WyoHunter (Jul 19, 2003)

I shoot a Mathwes Conquest 3 and a Rival Pro both with mini max cams and fingers. I like the cam because at 65% LET OFF I get a smoother release and a more positive feel on the string with the short valley.


----------



## 4X-24 BOB (Jul 4, 2003)

I went from a Rival Pro with the Minimax to a Conquest 3 with a supersoft cam and my scores went south ! I had a rough time because when I shot the C3 everything felt great . I just thought it was me going through a slump ! I sold the C3 bought a Rival , first game I shot with it was 295 , about 6 points better than the C3 ! 
But this was me , If you have both cams you should shoot both of them to see which works best for you !
Makes me wonder why I am sellin my rival and trying an ultratec !:mg:


----------



## Arrow (Aug 30, 2002)

*Cams vs. Wheels*

I have shot Hoyt's with E-Wheel and Command Cams and the Martin Razor X with the Nitrous X system. I prefer the cams to the wheels. I like to have something solid to pull on. 

The cams provide me with a consistent place to draw to.

Just my $0.02 worth.

Arrow


----------



## Motomo (Oct 2, 2003)

*Cams Vs Wheels and the in between*

I have a browning pro 600 a Martin shadowcat nitrous x and a PSE Dakota. I have found that I have gotten quite a bit more consistent in my shooting since I started shooting the short valley hard wall cam of the martin over the wheels of the browning. The PSE is a bit in between with the SU cams and I am still in the process of getting it set up to shoot consistently. What I have found though with the dakota is that it is more comfortable in the draw cycle than the martin and a whole lot smoother.

I have also shot the hoyt cam and a 1/2 which personally I did not like at all. Part of that might be that the bow I had was shorter and caused alot more finger pinch that any of the bows above. 

I would recommend to try different setups to see what works best for you


----------



## jerrytee (Feb 5, 2005)

I used to shoot an older Oneida with soft cams and I shot that just like a recurve with a clicker. When I changed to a more modern Pro eagle I found that i liked shooting off the back wall with back tension and the bow prefered to be shot that way as well.


----------



## Manhunter50 (Oct 23, 2006)

*Had one...*

I had a Conquest 3 until about a year ago, when I went to an Ovation, then started shooting Ross bows. I got my Conquest 3 with the Super Soft cam, but didn't shoot it particularly well, so I switched to the 65 % letoff Max Cam, which I shot a lot better. I found that the hard wall on the Max Cam and similar cams on some of the other bows I've shot really prevents me from creeping, which I tend to do when I start to get tired. Trust me, you can't creep with a Max Cam; it'll yank the string right out of your fingers.

I shot round wheel bows until 1995 or so, then switched to Mathews - all of which have a pretty hard wall (except for the SS cam, of course). I used to think I preferred a wider valley with a soft wall, but I adapted. There are plenty of finger shooters around who shoot bows with hard walls exceptionally well. One guy in my club is a very consistent 590-plus (600 round) shooter and shoots a Bowtech Constitution at 70% letoff with a manual draw stop. It's really about what you are able to adapt to and work with to hone your skills.


----------

