# Removing glue build up effectively on carbon arrows



## Macdoc18 (Dec 28, 2012)

use a Fletching removal tool first and then carefully scrapee with a knife to remove the rest Finish with emery cloth or fine sand paper. Avoid acetone soaking but my Gold tips have not suffered after being wiped with acetone briefly


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## fieldnfeathers (Nov 7, 2013)

Exactly why I use fletch tape on my arrows now. So much easier. I use the AZ EZ-fletch as well. Works great.

Best to just work on scraping that off. Takes a while, but you'll get it.


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## davidflorida (Jun 21, 2012)

Tape[emoji1303]


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## icemanls2 (Mar 15, 2007)

Scrape it with a knife, then clean shafts with 91-100% alcohol, then re-fletch them. I use Fletch tite platinum. I have scraped my carbon shafts numerous times with a knife with no issues.


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## oldmand (Aug 18, 2015)

If you haven't bought the AZ EZ fletch yet, I would recommend spending a little more and getting a Bitz, especially if you intend to keep fletching your shafts from now on. 

Secondly, I use a fairly dull knife and the glue comes off easily. Too sharp a knife can and will gouge the carbon.


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## Willyboys (Feb 12, 2010)

oldmand said:


> If you haven't bought the AZ EZ fletch yet, I would recommend spending a little more and getting a Bitz, especially if you intend to keep fletching your shafts from now on.
> 
> Secondly, I use a fairly dull knife and the glue comes off easily. Too sharp a knife can and will gouge the carbon.


^^^ My experience is the same.


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## ramsey1960 (Mar 18, 2016)

I have had a little bit of luck using a potato peeler to lightly scrap off.


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## balkanboy (Nov 9, 2012)

You can use aceton without any issues, it is commonly used to clean up carbon fibre moulds. I wouldn't recommend soaking in it for few days but a brief soak and wipe are just fine. I have used it for years. 
Marko


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## dajogejr (Dec 20, 2012)

I clean as best I can with a knife...then a little acetone on a qtip or cotton swab.
Remember, it's a vanity thing. Fletch glue will stick to old fletch glue.
Key is not using too much when fletching.


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## j.conner (Nov 12, 2009)

Willyboys said:


> ^^^ My experience is the same.


Ditto here. The Arizona EZ Fletch does not work well with feathers. It is tricky stuffing them into the slots and takes more time doing that than it saves being able to do all three at once. It also makes repair jobs (replace one fletch) unnecessarily difficult. Do yourself a favor and get a Bitz - you will have a great tool for life. It is also very adjustable and can accommodate a wide variety of shafts and fletchings.

Also, just scrape the excess glue off with a dull knife. I then scrub the shaft with Ajax, rinse, dry, then wipe down with denatured alcohol.


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## mikescott (Feb 26, 2018)

I'm investing in a fletcher remover to safely scrap off fletching and glue bits off of carbon arrows. Now, I just need to get some acetone the next time I visit the store.


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## Macdoc18 (Dec 28, 2012)

Make sure you get pure acetone . Not the nail polish remover type that leaves perfume residues


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## j.conner (Nov 12, 2009)

Acetone can melt nocks and remove the logos/markings on the carbon arrow shaft , so denatured alcohol is a better choice. And definitely do not soak carbon arrows in acetone as it can melt the resin that holds the carbon fiber together.


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## nvision (Feb 23, 2015)

j.conner said:


> Acetone can melt nocks and remove the logos/markings on the carbon arrow shaft , so denatured alcohol is a better choice. And definitely do not soak carbon arrows in acetone as it can melt the resin that holds the carbon fiber together.


Hmm, I use acetone to wipe Gold Tip shafts all the time and have never had any of these happen.


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## tjdivo (Dec 16, 2017)

razor knife then scotch brite pad and warm soapy water then quick alcohol wipe.


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## Stub (Aug 13, 2013)

I also use the Arizona EZ Fletch. To be honest with you, I don't really care for it. It's difficult to insert the feathers into the slits. Also when locking it up to glue and dry. Slight movment in the arms will cause a glue mess until you get it all locked down with the top cap.

As far as removing glue from a carbon shaft. I assume a lot has to do with the type of glue you use. For me, I use blue cap gel super glue. I just scrape off with a pocket knife and like mentioned above use dish soap and a scotch brite pad. Never needed to use any acetone to clean the glue off. Just be careful scraping with a knife that's sharp.

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## CrimsonVelos (Sep 13, 2016)

I have only bought bare shafts for a long time now and I use locktite gel superglue to attach my feathers. That could make things different, but when I have to refletch, I scrape with a razor blade first and then use a sanding block I got from Walmart and then clean the shaft with alcohol. I also agree with others, a bitzenburger jig is what I use and it works great. With the super glue, I can have an arrow fletched pretty quickly. 


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## Yard Dog (Oct 5, 2017)

I usually just scrape with a dull knife, until it's clean.... A razor blade can dig in and cut fibers pretty quickly.... A bunch of fold do it that way tho, so maybe I am too careless.... lol


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## MGF (Oct 27, 2012)

Wow, all the low opinions on the "EZ Fletch". I've been using them for a lot of years and think it works just fine...does a whole arrow at once and I don't need a bench/table top to do it. Feathers is all I've ever used.

I will say that I don't like the really fast drying glues.


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## Squirrel (Aug 6, 2008)

I use acetone to clean my arrows, carbon or aluminum. I know some say not to use it on carbon, but it's not like I am soaking the arrows in it for days. A quick wipe and it's cleaned up. It's been over 20 years and I haven't had an arrow dissolve yet. I also like to use Onestringer wraps and have been for over 15 years on my own arrows. If I am careful and don't glue a fletching over the seam, it makes clean up really easy because the vanes or feathers come off clean with the wrap.


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## Bender (Dec 6, 2006)

Stub said:


> I also use the Arizona EZ Fletch. To be honest with you, I don't really care for it. It's difficult to insert the feathers into the slits. Also when locking it up to glue and dry. Slight movment in the arms will cause a glue mess until you get it all locked down with the top cap.
> 
> As far as removing glue from a carbon shaft. I assume a lot has to do with the type of glue you use. For me, I use blue cap gel super glue. I just scrape off with a pocket knife and like mentioned above use dish soap and a scotch brite pad. Never needed to use any acetone to clean the glue off. Just be careful scraping with a knife that's sharp.
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk


Whut Stub sed.

The EZ Fletch is great for vanes. Even single fletch repair isn't too bad IF you're dealing vanes. But feathers? Big PITA whether it's first time or repair.


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## j.conner (Nov 12, 2009)

Bender said:


> ...The EZ Fletch is great for vanes. Even single fletch repair isn't too bad IF you're dealing vanes. But feathers? Big PITA whether it's first time or repair.


To Bender's point, I do like the EZ Fletch for student arrows with vanes - it is great for Genesis arrows, for example. I also like using gel superglue as it sets in around 18 seconds, so I can crank through a bunch of repairs or re-fletches quite quickly.

I like the JoJan for fletching with feathers. I find that feathers still stick best with FletchTite Platinum, which requires a long set time that benefits from a jig with 6 stations. This is also beneficial for student arrows, especially those with feathers that are constantly being damaged.

I use a Bitzenberger with gel superglue for my own arrows. It is very adjustable and facilitates fletching a wide variety of feathers, vanes, and shafts - everything from tiny target vanes on .166 skinny shafts, to hunting arrows with long helical vanes, to flu flus using ginormous full length feathers, to woodies with spliced feathers.


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## Archer Mech (Sep 7, 2014)

I use X-Acto knives to clean/ scrape the glue residue off my carbon arrow shafts. It takes time and patience. The black shafts like Victorys' are easier to clean than Gold Tip shafts. The Gold Tip shafts seem to scar easier but that also tells me the glue has adhered exceptionally well. I have carefully scraped the (super) glue residue off my Easton shafts that originally were fletched with vanes and replaced them with feathers. No scarring to the original anodized finish.


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## mikescott (Feb 26, 2018)

I finally got my acetone and some denatured alcohol today. I wiped these shafts with a rag with a little bit of acetone, scrap off what glue I could get with my fletching remover, and wiped the shafts with denatured alcohol. I tried the other set of arrows that were fully fledged at my shooting range and I may not be buying these arrows anytime soon again: one insert for an arrow came out of a shaft and got stuck in the target post from my shooting. I got these arrows from amazon for $30 and they were made in China, so it was something for me to try out without spending more money on expensive arrows. I also I learned to not use too much glue when fletching arrows, so this has been a good learning experience. Are the shafts good for fletching now or do I need to clean them more? Eventually, I will be investing in better quality arrows (I'm thinking of getting Beman ICS BowHunter arrows) and getting more when I have enough money saved. Any other Affordable quality carbon arrows that I could purchase?


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## j.conner (Nov 12, 2009)

The Beman Bow Hunters are a good value arrow shaft. Good choice!


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

To avoid the glue issue in the future use an arrow wrap...https://onestringer.com/

Make sure you get the clear, protective "Double Dogg" coating or over wrap, makes them last well beyond the life of your fletching.

You can use any glue you want over them and it will hold better than on a bare shaft. Just peel or scrape the wrap off and everything comes with it. They look nice too. Not quite as nice as painted caps and crests but are a lot more convenient.

With the acetone use some 0000 steel wool and scrub lightly, then wipe with a clean paper towel. I've been fletching, stripping and refletching my ACCs for over twenty years this way and never a problem. Some of my shafts have been reworked so many times I've had to write the spine on the side since the factory marks have worn off.


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## mikescott (Feb 26, 2018)

Thanks for the tips with the arrow wraps and the acetone wiping. For the arrow wraps specically, I'll just get 7" wrap at decent prices, cut them in half and have 24 pieces with a pack of 12. 2" or 3" feathers and vanes would fit from what I've been learning about fletching.


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