# Center Shot Gauge?



## GAbowhunter123 (Dec 12, 2006)

Can ya tell me what is the best center shot gauge around. i know that them laser ones are great but i don't want to pay the much money. what is a good one with a low price tag. Thanks


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## XP35 (Oct 11, 2005)

Why? Center shot CAN NOT accurately be set with any guage, laser or otherwise. Don't waste your money. A guage does no more for you than eyeballing the rest does. It has to be tuned/set DYNAMICALLY....meaning while being actually shot by the shooter and using the shooter's arrow and release. There are too many little things going on for a guage to ever work (or cross country bow tuning for that matter). The string is not in the center of the bow and neither is the force from it. Your hand placement makes a little difference in where the center of the string's force is, too. How much cam/idler lean a bow has even changes the centershot location between bows of the same model. So, see, there is no guage that will set the centershot properly. Look up walkback tuning and paper tuning. These steps will dynamically set the centershot for you.


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## TMan51 (Jan 25, 2004)

I'm with XP on this one.

I've used a couple of them over the years, but I have not had more than a couple setups that were actually "center" by the guage.

Tuning requires the shooter to adjust the hardware based on arrow flight. A center shot tool is a start, but I have had the same results "eyeballing" the starting point, and tuning from there.

I gave mine to a friend who was fascinated by the concept :wink:


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## Aim4gold (Dec 19, 2006)

I use the old fashioned type, “L” shaped shaft that you rotate about a flat surface on your bow – I bet it cost me all of 5 bucks.

That’s great if you can get I close enough by eyeballing it – your eye plays lotza tricks on ya – I use the gauge to get close, then I fine tune by shooting. It’s worth the 5 bucks, don’t go out and buy any of those fancy things – keep it simple!


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## Purka (Sep 8, 2004)

In bygone years, I have used an arrow length of alum.box section, with a long threaded sight pin through the end of it , lay against the flat of the window, adjust the pin until the end is in the middle of the string,reverse the rod, and adjust the centershot until the middle of the arrow is under the end of the pin.


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## bassman409 (Jul 19, 2006)

I use a tape and measure out so the arrow center is 3/4 inch from face of riser. No Cost! Each bow has a starting point and you can get it here or from the manufacturer.


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## Spotshooter2 (Oct 23, 2003)

Everyone is right on , dont waste your money on gauges. Start out eyeballing your center shot then do the walkback tuning for your center shot. Do a search on here for walkback tuning , there is a lot of info on it .


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## pencilslinger (Dec 19, 2005)

*rubber band.*

You have to walk back tune for sure. One trick i did learn here is pretty slick. Cut a rubber band. Tie a piece of thread on each end. Get two 3/16th" allen wrenches. Lay thread over limb pocket bolt and insert allen wrench so that it holds the tread in the hole. do the same on the other hole so the band is tight. Now just line up the rubber band with the string and set your rest dead center. This is a great starting point. 

Now papertune/ walkback tune and what ever else tune you want. I followed the easton tuning guide. alot of work, but well worth it.


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## Mr.LIFETIME (Apr 12, 2006)

Never mind the gauge. Do what these guys are doing, it works.


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## MikeK (Dec 30, 2003)

Here I was feeling very scientific with my Easy-Eye laser gadget and you guys just spoiled it all for me.


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## pyroarch57 (Jul 13, 2006)

Purka said:


> In bygone years, I have used an arrow length of alum.box section, with a long threaded sight pin through the end of it , lay against the flat of the window, adjust the pin until the end is in the middle of the string,reverse the rod, and adjust the centershot until the middle of the arrow is under the end of the pin.


Yes, you can do the same thing with your t`bar.


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## Arrroman (May 11, 2003)

Use your eyeballs or your bowsquare.

Then walkback till the bow shoots the same vertical line at all distances.

Good luck hunting! >>>------------->


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## XP35 (Oct 11, 2005)

MikeK said:


> Here I was feeling very scientific with my Easy-Eye laser gadget and you guys just spoiled it all for me.


Sorry, MikeK, but if you asked around first you would have saved some cash and got some arrows or something better. There are too many factors keeping a bow from tuning down the dead center of the bow and that is why it HAS to be done dynamically. Unless, of course, you are shooting a shoot-through system and it is set perfectly. Even an imperfectly set up shoot-through will not tune out dead center.


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## A Mess (May 21, 2005)

First off, I agree that Easton's tuning guide and walk back tuning are good ways to FINISH finding center shot. But you've gotta start somewhere. Eyeballing may not be the end of the world. It will get you kind of close, but ONLY IF you know how to eyeball for centershot in the first place. There have been a couple of replys already suggesting you find the center of the limbs. (like with the rubber band) This is bad advice. It only works on bows that have shoot through systems (Liberty, some Martins, and Oneida, maybe a couple more) By far, the majority of bows do not have the string in the center of the limb. Therefore it is a waste of time to find the center of the bow or limb on most bows. A center shot gauge doesn't find the center of the limb, or the center of the bow. It finds the distance from the center of the string to the riser, and gets the arrow the same distance from the riser. This is a GREAT place to start. Most bows require very little change from here to shoot well. The ones Aim4gold and Purka recommended both work well.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

*Reply*

I agree one should shoot there center shot in.
Place a piece of black electrial tape on your back stop .And see how the arrows hit.Then move rest to make arrows come to the tape.

Now eye balling is fine. But I put my bow on my bow press. Place a string level on the bow string.Level it .Then rock the bow level forward and backwards and hang a plumb bob from my bow string to find my starting rest center. Then I shoot the black electrical tape. For the rest center and nock height.Paper tuning means nothing to me. Iam after arrow groups and grouping.A arrow can ride on its rear end for me, as long as it hits and groups the same.

Later


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## glrjola4 (Feb 2, 2006)

*L system*

Hi buddys..

Aim4gold and Purka !!! Pls can you post some pics of your CS tune system ??

Thanks a lot 
Jorge


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