# are calluses bad for archery?



## Windrover (Jan 6, 2012)

Slow down a little for now. Heavy trad bows can injure your hand. You might try a heavier glove or tab for now but I would concentrate of form rather than volume until you get more used to archery.


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## Moebow (Jul 8, 2010)

Welcome to trad archery!! Do some more research on a "deep hook" and on a relaxed string forearm, wrist and hand -- relaxed release.

My theory is IF you are getting significant calluses, blisters or soreness in general your release technique needs significant work. In archery, IF it hurts, it's probably not the best technique that can be used.

Arne


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## Cladinator (Feb 28, 2014)

Out of curiosity, what kind of tab/glove are you using? What draw weight are you working with?


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## Stub (Aug 13, 2013)

I actually notice some calluses on my middle and ring finger tips when I use my glove. If I use my tab I have no soreness when I shoot. However, I like my glove a lot better - go figure hah.

As far as it being bad? I really have no idea. I will let the more experienced people answer that, as I would too also like to know.


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## Roger Savor Sr (Feb 16, 2014)

The reason your developing "calluses" on the tips of your finger(s) is because your releasing the string off those finger tips. So, I concur with Moebow in that you need to learn the "deep hook" which is essentially putting the bow string in the first crease down from the finger tips and then curl them back towards you some. Just make certain you don't tense the hand and wrist by gripping the string. Get on Youtube and lookup Jimmy Blackmon's and Moebow's videos which go in to great detail regarding all of this and best of luck!


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## rickstix (Nov 11, 2009)

For me…not having calluses means I’m not shooting enough.

Sore fingers definitely have an effect on the fun…and should be addressed. If it’s the kind of soreness that’s associated with the formation of calluses then improved finger protection is typically what needs to be addressed. There is either a better glove out there…or you’ll have to make some modification to what you have. Generally I prefer a glove with cordovan overlays, but once had an all cordovan glove (very hard/stiff) that outshined all others when shooting heavier weight bows. I’ve also made a glove with inserts in the finger stalls…and will still tape pieces of a plastic milk jug to an offended finger, if it keeps me shooting.

I could change “how” I shoot…but it’s getting late in the game to change what has worked so far, so I usually only go as far as being mindful of how I’m distributing the pressure on my fingers. Actually, as I’ve been shooting more lately than the previous couple of months, I’m kinda going through much the same thing at the moment. Can’t stop shooting altogether…but I am willing to give some matters the time needed to catch up to my ambitions.

Aside from all of that, the calluses let me pick up a bow and shoot some arrows, without any finger protection…which is also kinda my last-resort approach when hunting in really cold weather. Good Luck with it…and Enjoy, Rick.


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## MotherLode (Dec 9, 2005)

My advise is to stop right there and read this below again. Then do it all over again paying close attention to his "generous" videos , you should have no calluses. Of which I used to be all familiar with, it means you are doing it wrong which will also hinder your shooting due to inconsistency of release. 






Moebow said:


> Welcome to trad archery!! Do some more research on a "deep hook" and on a relaxed string forearm, wrist and hand -- relaxed release.
> 
> My theory is IF you are getting significant calluses, blisters or soreness in general your release technique needs significant work. In archery, IF it hurts, it's probably not the best technique that can be used.
> 
> Arne


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## flowarcher (Dec 16, 2013)

Roger Savor Sr said:


> The reason your developing "calluses" on the tips of your finger(s) is because your releasing the string off those finger tips. So, I concur with Moebow in that you need to learn the "deep hook" which is essentially putting the bow string in the first crease down from the finger tips and then curl them back towards you some. Just make certain you don't tense the hand and wrist by gripping the string. Get on Youtube and lookup Jimmy Blackmon's and Moebow's videos which go in to great detail regarding all of this and best of luck!


i do use a deep hook my soreness is on the crease of my fingers and hurts most when i let go of the string.


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## flowarcher (Dec 16, 2013)

Cladinator said:


> Out of curiosity, what kind of tab/glove are you using? What draw weight are you working with?


I have a dura-glove from 3rivers archery and i have a 40 pound bow,im 16 and not the biggest bloke so i cant hold on the string forever.


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## Cladinator (Feb 28, 2014)

> I have a dura-glove from 3rivers archery and i have a 40 pound bow,im 16 and not the biggest bloke so i cant hold on the string forever.


I'm new to archery so I'm not the best at giving advice. Nonetheless, I'll put in my two cents. 
I also have a glove. I bought a glove when I was initially assembling my equipment. I bought a tab too. 
I honestly haven't used the glove. I use the tab because it encourages me to keep my fingers in a uniform and consistent place, something I think is important as a beginner.

Sooner or later I'm going to try out the glove but I really think I benefit from the tab. Maybe try out a tab for a while to see if it improves comfort and shooting.


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## joebobf (Apr 9, 2012)

I've been using the dura glove for a couple months now and I like it, plenty of protection for me at 41 pounds. Like the guys have said, the soreness is due to technique. Slow down and work on form.


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## flowarcher (Dec 16, 2013)

ok i suppose most of the soreness is from the amount of arrows and my release,when i let go of the bowstring should i just completly relax my hand and pull back(my fingers are not 100% straight)or force my fingers straight when i release?


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## Moebow (Jul 8, 2010)

"or force my fingers straight when i release? " NO ONE can open their fingers fast enough to clear the string (Not interfere with it or cause drag on the fingers). By relaxing your hand/fingers, the string CAN push or flip the fingers out of the way fast enough. Some shoot well with the opening of the fingers, but pay the price in calluses or consistency or both.

Arne


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## flowarcher (Dec 16, 2013)

ok thanks for all the replies guys been a great help!one other thing im slightly worried about is my anchor point.I was wondering if my anchor point is ok or if i need to change it,i used to do middle finger in the corner of my mouth but i have heard thats not a great idea since the corner of the mouth is not consistantly in the same spot so i canged it so that my thumb nuckle is place in a small gap in my teeth right above,Now my thumb tip is touching my middle finger but what im worried about is my thumb is not one of the fingers i use to draw my bow so i dont know if im placing my drawing fingers in the same place,is this anchor point ok?


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## Moebow (Jul 8, 2010)

Your "anchor point" should NOT be an arbitrarily chosen place. You have to draw to full draw so your bones line up and support the lion's share of the bow weight. When you get that, you string hand will end up where it needs to be.

Said another way, your string hand position at full draw is a result OF your draw, NOT the target position for the draw.

Arne


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## flowarcher (Dec 16, 2013)

Ok good to know ,but my draw can go behind my entire head and i wouldent have an anchor point then my hand would be floating


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## Moebow (Jul 8, 2010)

IF you are using bone structure and NOT arm muscle, there is no way the hand will go behind the head. Your hand will end up on your face somewhere NEAR a finger in the corner of the mouth/tooth.

See IF any of these videos helps any.

www.youtube.com/user/TheMoebow1

Arne


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## flowarcher (Dec 16, 2013)

Sorry i didnt get to reply been a bit busy.Ive watched some of your videos but i dont know if im doing it right.I dont really know what feeling im looking for to target the right muscle groups do you have any other tips?


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

Anchor? Generally it's either high or low, depending on style of shooting (bare bow or with sight) and physical build....when I use a sight, I use a low anchor (under the jaw bone- split finger) but bare bow is 3 under index to corner of mouth with thumb knuckel (big one) in the earlobe at jaw bone area.

Getting a solid, repeatable anchor takes time...work with it, find out what YOU like.

Release?- Just relax the fingers...the string tension will fire the bow...DO NOT PLUCK THE STRING; DO NOT HELP BY POPPING THE FIGERS OPEN. What I teach the new shooters is to take a pencil and place it in the first knuckle of the fingers used to anchor--now, start relaxing your fingers...when the pencil falls from the fingers- you've relaxed enough to fire the bow.


I suggest looking at the FITA beginners guide and the FITA intermediate level
take a look at the documents on the right side of the page
http://www.worldarchery.org/HOME/Development/Coaching-and-Technical


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## Goingbuddha (Apr 29, 2013)

If I may suggest a couple of videos from this site: http://www.archerygb.org/support/operations/coaches/coaching_videos.php

Good luck.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Moebow said:


> Your "anchor point" should NOT be an arbitrarily chosen place. You have to draw to full draw so your bones line up and support the lion's share of the bow weight. When you get that, you string hand will end up where it needs to be.
> 
> Said another way, your string hand position at full draw is a result OF your draw, NOT the target position for the draw.
> 
> Arne


I subscribe to this philosophy. While many I respect (and who often score higher than me) have advised that I anchor closer to the eye for the sake of a more useable point gap at closer distances, I only get that satisfying alignment with my thumb knuckle behind and under my jaw, which is lucky, I guess, in that it does make a handy anchor point for reference , though when most people think anchor, they think about holding their hand to the anchor, when in fact, with good shots, it just kind of touches, but mostly floats by it, only for reference, and during the shot, it is pulling past.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Moebow said:


> IF you are using bone structure and NOT arm muscle, there is no way the hand will go behind the head. Your hand will end up on your face somewhere NEAR a finger in the corner of the mouth/tooth.
> 
> Arne


This is exactly correct, but I would only elaborate... 

If you think about it, you really want to be only pushing the bow by holding out the bow arm straight ahead, parallel to the shoulders, because it is inherently strong there, and the effort required by the shoulders to stabilize it is minimal. I.e., you have the best leverage. You still want to actively push in forward, while still keeping the shoulder down (so that it isn't prone to collapse into your neck), in order to keep the bow arm stable. On the pulling side, you only use enough arm muscle in your forearm to keep the string on your fingers, nothing more. That means a deep hook, string in the finger grooves, fingers pulled as straight and slack as you can without letting go, and no effort felt within your arms and rotator cuff. All of the pull is accomplished by simply rotating the elbow behind you until you have the arrow under your eye, however your personal geometry will allow. This can only go so far. You may still want to 'pull' through the shot, but ergonomically, it is a natural 'stop'. You can pull further, but it requires activating your rotator cuff muscles and/or your biceps or triceps, depending on how you're doing it. Using these muscles not only breaks alignment, but becomes FAR harder, and places a LOT more stress on your joints. I would venture that most injuries related to archery involve poor alignment and shooting form. I've personally had shoulder irritation related to shooting a compound bow with the draw length set far too long, which is pretty much the same thing, and what at least half of compound shooters I see do on a regular basis.


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## Hex (Feb 21, 2014)

I'm using LDPE milk jug handles and athletic tape under my tab.


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