# Tower stand project



## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

As I age (knocking on the door of 50) and as my Dad gets older (76 years young) and as I have been helping more and more new hunters get into the sport, comfort has been more of an issues to extend time on stand. I have several locations in funnels on farm land that would work well with an enclosed tower type blind since I have already had success year after year with ladder stands in those locations.

I plan to build some tower type blinds but would like to make them dual purpose stands that work for both gun and bow hunting. I scanned the web for ideas and designs that are commercially available. I quickly learned that manufactured blinds are very expensive (from $700 to $1,500 and that’s just the blind without the wooden structure that gets it off the ground) So I set about designing my own.

My objectives were to have a stand that can be enclosed for really foul weather, that could seat 2 people comfortably, elevated at least 10 feet to the platform meaning a seated person’s eye level would be about 14 feet off the ground, has horizontal windows for gun hunting and lower, vertical windows for bowhunting.

I then used a CAD design software to model the stand. Here is one of the early versions. It does not yet have the roof or door designed but I have since worked out those details.










The stands will be built from treated lumber but I want to build a prototype out of regular pine to work out the bugs and make improvements. Here is enough lumber to build the entire stand with the exception of the plywood and window materials. 










I priced this amount of treated lumber at Home Depot and its around $250 and includes 

4) 4 x 4 x 10 long 

48) 2 x 4 x 8 long 

6) 2 x 6 x 8 long 

7) 2 x 4 x 10 long 

The design has to be 76 year old friendly which is why there are more rungs that are closer together on the ladder than need be for strapping young folks. The internals of the box are 41 by 64 by 75 tall.

Here are some pictures of the prototype during construction. (I have already begun making changes from the CAD model. )



















The walls being framed up.










Here is a wall with the sheeting on and painted (I figured the inside of the blind should be dark like most pop-up blinds) The dotted lines indicate a potential location for bowhunting, vertical windows but I am reconsidering their locations at this point.


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

A few views of the framed up box.





































I think I need to make the porch larger and change the swing of the door. I also plan to install safety rails around the porch.










As long as I have a black stand, I will have to (during the firearms season) use a black gun. I dont have an all black bow or I would have used it for the picture. 










To be continued …………………….


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## edthearcher (Nov 2, 2002)

great job i will be 74 this month you have planted some ideas in my mind thanks,


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## RyanBambach (Nov 17, 2011)

great job, I am looking for an ideal way to build two for my self also. The location where I hunt has a 175' wide x 800 yard drainage ditch running thru the middle of it and makes it possible to see lots of deer but terribly hard to stand hunt. Looking to build two towers that will be placed towards the ditch area. Looking to use them for early and late season bow hunting (putting food plots around them) and then also durring the muzzle loader season here. 

What are you opinions about having a larger box up top with a trap door bottom? I am looking at doing all day hunts and would like a little more room.


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## sagitarius (Sep 11, 2007)

I like this. I have a spot that I would like to try something like this out in.


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## huntnfishnut (Jan 12, 2011)

fancy...


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## KraQr (Aug 11, 2009)

Great idea and build, definitely need to swing that door the other way though. Looks awesome


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## Jovush (Sep 28, 2006)

As always, I admire your work


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## goathollow (Jun 18, 2008)

Thanks, I'm going to subscribe so I can come back and find this again later. I have a couple places where one of these would be perfect and I've been wanting to build one for some time.

Presumably, the legs sit on the ground not in it. I am making this assumption based on your narrative describing it as 10 ft high and your materials list shows 10ft 4x4s. Question: How are you planning to anchor it to the ground?

Also, now that you have the prototype built, are you happy with the 10ft height or would you go higher with it?


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

I have built a few different box blinds, both elevated and on the ground. You do NOT need to stud the walls up. If you start with a piece of 3/8" plywood turned on its side and glue and screw it to the platform then all you need to do is have 4 corner studs that go from the platform to the roof, along with framing in around the windows, that will make it plenty stout. 

If you would like I will take pictures of 1 that I built like this so you can see it instead of trying to imagine it.

BTW I am not trying to nitpick your design, just simply trying to offer you some friendly advise. Because I have built some like that and they are so heavy they will not be moved.


EDIT: BTW the 1 that I hunt out of I built in 2007 only treated lumber was the platform because it sets on the ground. This past spring we had a tornado go thru the property. Beleive it or not it took my blind and threw it out in the field roughly 40 yards from where it originally stood. Amazingly the only damage to it was, 1 shingle was ripped from the roof. INo matter how you decide to build it I strongly suggest using construction adhesive and screws, It will last a long time that way.


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

I added a 2nd support under the outer corner of the porch and redid the bracing. I also added a hand rail around the porch. I think I am about finished with the prototype stand as far as improving the design and construction. I need to work out the window details now.


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## Garceau (Sep 3, 2010)

Very nice Ron - we generally build ours as well.

I rifle hunt with my wife. I used to do the 4x8 design for simplicity. But to be honest at mine and her height when we were both in there, the 4 foot depth was too shallow. My legs and knees killed me after a full day sit. When I was by myself it wasnt an issue because I could sit with my legs going the long direction.

We also had some comfy office type chairs in there so that didnt help much.

Mine got destroyed in the tornadoes that went through this spring and I made a new one. 7x5...the additional foot was really noticable.

After I added up all the prices with the windows and everything it wassnt much cheaper than going with a black plastic one. But they need alot of work to be desirable. But they got the longevity factor going for them.

I may look into that route at some point, but the options that allow bowhunting are considerably more expensive.

If I could find something as a sheeting at a good price then I would frame it up in wood, and use the heavy black plastic or fiberglass as exterior.....but usually they are always thrown together in too much haste around my place 

Your work is great as everything you have done on here...nice work.


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## Supermag1 (Jun 11, 2009)

Just an idea (easy add on later though), what about stairs instead of a ladder? Much easier to ascend with older knees and muscles.

Also, stairs or ladder, get yourself some anti-skid tape for the foot holds on the ladder/stairs. Treated wood gets dang slick with a little bit of moisture (coming from someone who's slipped and slid from over 10' on slick wooden stairs).


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## codykrr (Feb 6, 2011)

^ exactly what I was going to say! I dont think it would be to much to add stairs, even if there have to be at a steeper incline.


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

Here is a crude sketch of what I am kicking around for the upper sliding windows. Lower windows will most likely be removable panels or hinged. 

My thought is to pre-make the window units and install them in their frames after the blind is up.


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## jogr (Oct 2, 2010)

Nice. I suggest eliminating the porch - it serves no purpose. Make the door only up to window height and swing inward. The top half doesn't need to open. 

I agree you don't need 2x4 stud walls. RVs are all 2x2.

41" might be too narrow. Narrow is good for being able to watch multiple directions but with 2 people up there it might be tight.


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## goathollow (Jun 18, 2008)

Rancid Crabtree said:


> Here is a crude sketch of what I am kicking around for the upper sliding windows. Lower windows will most likely be removable panels or hinged.
> 
> My thought is to pre-make the window units and install them in their frames after the blind is up.


I presume you're thinking the windows would be see through? If that presumption is correct, plexiglass or glass? I've thought about window design as I have tinkered in my mind with making a box blind like yours. I kind of like the idea of being able to sit with the windows closed when its cold,windy, rainy etc but I have always get hung up on the sound sliding windows would make as you open them. Can you line the tracks with something that would keep them from making noise?

Also, how are you anchoring the whole thing to the ground. Making it "not permanent" solves a lot of problems in my mind and I honestly hadn't thought about making it free standing. Any concerns it might tip over?


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## Meat (Oct 3, 2003)

Thanks for the plans, just what I have been looking for. 

Meat


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## bsites9 (Mar 22, 2008)

in for later.


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## codykrr (Feb 6, 2011)

jogr said:


> Nice. I suggest eliminating the porch - it serves no purpose. Make the door only up to window height and swing inward. The top half doesn't need to open.
> 
> I agree you don't need 2x4 stud walls. RVs are all 2x2.
> 
> 41" might be too narrow. Narrow is good for being able to watch multiple directions but with 2 people up there it might be tight.


Actually I would keep the porch. Main reason is a place for one hunter to wait while the other gets situated. dealing with elderly people, and handicapped people can be time consuming. the porch also could be a place to set things on while getting situated.


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## codykrr (Feb 6, 2011)

Also have you considered using either acrylic or plexy glass that it attached with a piano style hinge on the inside letting you open it upwards? would be much quieter, and easier. Unless you are using a glass track system you will find the wood swelling/getting wet will make a god awful squeaking noise!


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## C Svach (Jun 8, 2011)

Very Nice work Ron, I agree I would probably eliminate the porch for myself but, I see it would probably add a dimension of safety for your father to get upright and stable instead of crawling directly inside. Looks like the door hinges need to be switched. Are you planning on building pieces and moving it like a modular and assembling or just carting all the raw material out to sight and assembling it there. Did you screw or nail the walls to the base and the base to the tower? I assume your son was free labor : )


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## C Svach (Jun 8, 2011)

Cant wait to see follow up post


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## cannonman (Nov 29, 2008)

Good job! I think your going to like it. Will you be having an open house? :wink:


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## lkmn (Feb 28, 2006)

Wouldn't the plexiglass give a glare with sun hitting it just right? I am in the process of building a box ground blind and was going to do sliding windows but figured you'd get a good glare off the plexi!


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

if theres a glare the wildlife evidently get use to it. all of mine have plexiglass windows and have used them for several years.

The wood track for sliding will not work with the swelling of the tracks. Might I suggest using a hinge system, but not an upwards hinge rather a downward hinge, hinging the windows down allows you to have a shelf type support for shooting bags.

I personally like the idea of the porch. you can achor the tower down with a cable from all 4 corners using a turn buckle in the middle of the tower, just screw a 4' ground anchoring stake in the ground and atach all 4 cables to 1 turn buckle.


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## patterstdeer (Feb 28, 2006)

very nice


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

So I have had inquires about what I plan to do with this prototype tower blind and is I would be willing to part with it. The answer is yes but you have to get past the helpers I had making it. Here is Joe guarding the stand. He wont let anybody near it. He is guarding it now with the rifle I posted earlier and has set up his own "occupy" camp.










He only lets his other friend Joe near the stand. Both are ex-military and have bad attitudes. I thought the photo of the rifle in the blind would have tipped some folks off since it has two triggers (the second one being for the grenade launcher) 










Plus they have this huge guard dog named Roscoe patrolling the perimeter. 










They are all jacked up on Soda in massive quantities. 










If you haven’t figured it out by now, this is a 3/16 scale prototype model that I built to help me address all the design concerns ahead of time rather than after spending much $$$ on treated wood when I build the real stands. Here is one of my “Scale” 2 by 4’s on a real 2 by 4. 










Here are the scale sized nails I used. 









Here is Joe taking a break after helping test the stand.










The lumber I cut and stacked for that first photo was all cut on my table saw. The banding on that stack of 2 by 4’s is just a thin strip of black electrical tape I cut with a razor.


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## Cariss (Oct 16, 2006)

I like it!! Nice camera work to make it look life size!!


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## oneluckypops (Feb 24, 2007)

lol you suck lol nice job though


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## M-Haywood (Mar 2, 2011)

Anyone else think this stand was the real thing until the GI Joe pics? I feel dumb. lol


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## JHENS87 (Nov 7, 2009)

very nice, had me fooled. I am also considering building one, but in fullsize, to hunt out of next year and for when my son gets a bit older


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## bsites9 (Mar 22, 2008)

damnit. So in all seriousness, do you think this design is a good one for a REAL tower stand and do you plan on building it? And friend and I have been talking about this very thing, but we're definately not carpenters, so I was thinking we were onto something when I saw this.


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## C Svach (Jun 8, 2011)

Wow I wish I had that much free time on my hands!!!


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## Meat (Oct 3, 2003)

Boy, do I feel sheepish! Printed this all off yesterday and was preparing to share the info with my neighbor so we could get started ASAP. Unfortunately, neither of us are action figures, so I guess it won't work!

Meat


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## goathollow (Jun 18, 2008)

Had me fooled but I still like the plans for a full size one


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## Garceau (Sep 3, 2010)

Ron as for windows..... 

Menards has alum u-channel. the stuff that goes over the edges of plywood. I use that on all my bottom pieces, it makes the windows slide nice and easy compared to going across the dado-cut wood.

Just a thought, they are not tight in there and can rattle - but deer get used to that too. The glare they get used to just like windows anywhere else, and it may help hide some movement.

but I dont generally kill huge bucks gun hunting - so my theories could be all wrong.


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## Raymond 1 (Feb 23, 2010)

Sure it would work. With a few more pieces of lumber added at the window opening for structure support. Add in the pieces for supporting the window opening , the jack pieces and the other pieces and it would work fine. I have already built one similar to that tower stand but without the porch and I love it. The building itself is 5' wide X 8' long X 4' high. And the stand support base is made out of 4" X 4" X 8' and 2" X 4". I am going to build another in the near future but the building is going to be 8' wide X 8' long X 8' high. The base is going to be 8' high. I already have the lumber sawed out from logs off of my own property. 
Raymond


bsites9 said:


> damnit. So in all seriousness, do you think this design is a good one for a REAL tower stand and do you plan on building it? And friend and I have been talking about this very thing, but we're definately not carpenters, so I was thinking we were onto something when I saw this.


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

bsites9 said:


> damnit. So in all seriousness, do you think this design is a good one for a REAL tower stand and do you plan on building it? And friend and I have been talking about this very thing, but we're definately not carpenters, so I was thinking we were onto something when I saw this.


Fellas, this is going to be a real stand (or two) What I built was a design prototype to evaluate the design. Aside from the size of the pieces of wood, all the same construction practices were employed. So while this was only a scale model, it was built in preparation of a full size tower stand.

As to wishing you had that much time on your hands, you actually do. We both have 24 hours in our days, I just happen to have given up watching TV 8 years ago so I use my time differently than others. I’m glad I built the prototype as it brought to light several design concerns and lead to numerous changes and improvements that will be seen in the full scale tower stands. Everything for a reason. Measure twice and cut once.


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## codykrr (Feb 6, 2011)

WOW!!! hahaha it looked so convincing.


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## JPizzle (Sep 10, 2007)

awesome. I want one for my desk. I would get even less work done just looking at it wishing i was in the woods. We have built a handful but ours are more basic desings. Just a few things we have learned. We use 16' 4x4 so we can extend the side posts up into the stand. Really strenthens it up plus gives you more length to bury. Also with using PT, make sure on your fasteners. Lastly, we have been making our roofs out of old bedliners. My dad talked to the guy at Line X when he was getting his truck done, and asked what they do with all the old plastic liners. Now we go once a month and picj them up. Cut the center out with a sawsall and you have a roof that will last forever. The ridges can lap together like metal roof to keep the water out.


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## bsites9 (Mar 22, 2008)

to you guys who have these things, how far would you bury the posts into the ground?


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## Raymond 1 (Feb 23, 2010)

The posts are sitting on top of the ground. I have a rope from each corner of the building tied to a tree nearby each corner. If you didn't have any trees to use you could use anchoring rods.
Raymond


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## cannonman (Nov 29, 2008)

HaHA You got me!


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## goathollow (Jun 18, 2008)

bsites9 said:


> to you guys who have these things, how far would you bury the posts into the ground?


per a previous post...."you can achor the tower down with a cable from all 4 corners using a turn buckle in the middle of the tower, just screw a 4' ground anchoring stake in the ground and atach all 4 cables to 1 turn buckle."

I personally like this idea instead of burying the legs in the dirt. First, if buried, getting the legs lined up and sqaure would be hard for us normal non-construction types and second with some effort the thing could be moved if necessary.


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## RyanBambach (Nov 17, 2011)

we are building ours in a fairly wet location (its along a creek bed with good drainage) but the soil in the area is quite loose so instead of putting the posts into the ground, we are going to run 4x4's horizontally to the ground on the base. This is going to act like a snow shoe and give it more stability. We are also going to burry some dead man's (pieces of treated 6x6's burred a few feet under the surface) with a cable running up to the sides just to keep it from moving much durring frost heaves here in Ontairo.


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## HardWayMike (Feb 11, 2011)

For the windows I suggest using plexiglass. For 2 reasons. First being that it dosn't tend to fog up as easy when you initially heat the blind and secondly it won't break as easily. For the sliding I would look into using the old style system that used lead to help raise and lower them slowly and quietly. Like in the really old houses. I would use some kind of padding where the windows touch the wood so that there will not be any noise when raising and lowering them. Just my 2 cents. Good luck and it is looking good so far. Worst case scenario you have a cool toy for a nephew or grandson's GI Joe collection. Mike


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## lc12 (Jul 30, 2009)

Great job on the model and a good idea too!
Have you been able to come up with a "material cut list" based upon your model?
I priced all the lumber at home depot for a tower blind similar to yours and the cost was closer to $550.00 for a complete stand, and this was nothing fancy either!!!
I will be following this post for sure.
I will guarantee that it was easier for you to tilt this one up than what the real one will be like! Good luck with that!!!


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## daveswpa (Mar 14, 2006)

hook, line and sinker.
wow, should not have expected any less from you - awesome


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

I began working on the full scale tower stand over the holidays. The one issue I did not address with the scale model was the windows, namely the design and how they would open. At first I thought sliding side by side would be a good option but I forever lose half the window. I didn’t want a hinged design that either swung in or out because of the motion and the issues with keeping them open at a time when a deer approaches so I am messing around with a vertical slider with a counter weight balance system which makes the window very easy to open and keeps it in the open position without having to secure the window.

The Plexiglas and wood frame is 15 inches by 42 inches and weighs about 5 pounds The window rides in tracks on each end and slides up but the weight of the window was a bit much for super easy opening so I used the type of counter weight system so many milk house doors had on the farm. 

I have not yet removed the protective film on both sides of the window nor have I installed the felt sliders to quite the window but I got a chance to play around with the design to see if this is the route I want to go. Here is a view from the inside. The handle to open the window is a coat hook I modified and turned upside down.










The sill and sash on the outside are made from treated lumber and painted. I installed the sill at quite an angle to ensure water run-off as I don’t want water to get into the bottom track of the window and then freeze.










In the widow itself I installed a weather shield sort of mini awing made of aluminum. It’s the angle piece used for suspended ceilings.










With the window open, you can see how it protects the bottom track from rain. On each vertical end, I installed a “P” shaped piece of adhesive backed weather stripping also to keep water out.










To further detour rain, I added a wood strip above the entire window and then used a piece of roofing material called a gutter apron only I used it upside down to act as an additional awing to keep rain out.



















Here is a picture of the temporary rope I used to tie the window to the counter weight. After opening the window a few times and hearing the hard stop I installed a block of wood and a piece of sticky backed foam above the window to quite the stop.










Here is a video of the window being opened. It takes very little effort to lift. The “Clunking” sound you hear at the top of the window opening is not the hard stop but rather the crude counter weight at the other end of the rope as it swings and hits the wall. For a better and quieter counter weight I envision a PCV tube with the right amount of weight (perhaps sand) with end caps on the PVC tube. That sand weighted PVC would slide inside a slightly larger piece of PVC tucked into the corner near the floor. This keeps the weight from being bumped or swinging and making noise.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTON8raSA_c&feature=youtu.be

It looks promising so far. I still need to work on making the windows quieter.


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## fishuntbike (Nov 28, 2007)

sure this is for real size? It can be tricky and I don't want to be fooled again.....lol


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

This is the real deal at full scale. The video should prove it’s a full scale window.


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## Don Schultz (Jul 5, 2002)

Yeah I thot it was full size. Knew the rifle was a toy but still didn't catch the scale.


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## NHLHVECTRIX (Jan 3, 2008)

what about the automatic kitchen cabinet draw closers you could use one or two. when the window gets to a certain point the closer takes over very smooth and quite.. you can not make the drawers slam even if you wanted..


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## slowen (Jun 27, 2006)

You got me! Now to set things right you need to build me one and transport it to california all on your dime! 
Thanks in advance!


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

Since the sun and its UV rays as well as the grit carried in the wind as well as rain, snow and the risk of birds trying to fly through the blind only to smash into the Plexiglas are all negatives that are likely to occur during the 8 months this blind will sit idle every year, I have decided to install off-season shutters to protect the windows and further weatherproof the blind. The other reason in doing so is that it costs very little to provide this protection since the shutter is made from the scrap created by cutting the window opening. The small latches and hinges came to less than $6.00. In the following pictures, I have removed the aluminum awning made from the gutter apron that will be installed above the window. In prior pictures I held it in place with tape for the photo. The aluminum is too fragile for the rigors of transportation so it will be installed on-site once the blind is erected.

Here is the view from the outside with the shutter raised.












The shutter sits against the lip created by extending the window sash. 












I installed a wooden handle to raise and lower the shutter as well as 2 latches to keep the shutter closed.






















The handle has a deep finger groove to make it easy to grab and hold on while raising the shutter.












The view from the outside with the shutter lowered.












This seems like a good and low cost way to protect the windows.


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## travjc (Dec 3, 2011)

Do you have a way to latch the window covers down? I could see wind causing a flapping problem with them, course i'm in south dakota and 25 mph wind is just a breeze to us.


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## MarineSTC (Dec 5, 2008)

:thumbs_up


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

travjc said:


> Do you have a way to latch the window covers down? I could see wind causing a flapping problem with them, course i'm in south dakota and 25 mph wind is just a breeze to us.


I made sure to get some paint in the hinges. THey are plenty stiff and after some time in the out doors they will bot be so free swinging. In the forested areas where these stands will be I dont have to woory too much about wind but I could install a rubber bumper.


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

I finally got some free time to work on the blind now that its warm enough. I got the remaining walls built and positioned them together for a fit-up and so I can start working on the rest of the shutters and sliding windows. 



















The box now has two coats of Behr Premium exterior paint and the off season shutters are installed. The shutters will protect the stand and especially the Plexiglas windows during the 9 months of the year the stand sits outside unused and exposed to the elements.










The view from inside. I have yet to install the sliding Plexiglas windows on the inside.










The door has a smaller window and the Plexiglas will not open like the windows on the walls. As such, I had to install a dead bolt on the outside to keep it closed in the off season










Here the shutters are down.










There is a self adhesive foam gasket all around the window opening that the shutter touches to make a weather tight seal. Now its time to build the roof.


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## bsites9 (Mar 22, 2008)

lookin good...I have mine all desinged...now just gotta talk my huntin buddy into building it.


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## Poison4504 (Jan 23, 2010)

That thing looks pretty dang good. What are your plans getting it up on its legs?


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## deerhunter57 (Feb 5, 2012)

Not to steal your thread and l like what you are doing,here are two stands l put together over the Easter weekend,nothing fancy but l think they will do just fine,


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

With the box mostly done, I turned my attention to the roof. I was going to use a spreadable rubberized roof coating but last weekend I was up North cutting firewood and my brother told me about all the rubber roof material he had on hand so I am going that route.

The roof is made from 7/16 OSB and framed with 2x2's (except where the seam where the two sheets meet, there I used a 2 x 3 and caulked the joint before screwing the OSB down).

The roof overhangs the box by 8 inches all around.










Then I gave the exposed underside 2 coats of the same colored paint. The center portion (inside ceiling of the box) will be insulated)










Ready to apply the rolled roofing material.










The Rubber is thick (just over 1/16th inch and very stiff (and heavy)










Its been cold lately (its 33 F right now) so I will have to wait until I can set the roof out in the sun to warm it up enough to stretch and smooth out the rubber before I can attach it all around the edge.


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## C Svach (Jun 8, 2011)

Looking good Ron, How heavy do you think it is? How will you get it elevated? Just curious and a bit jealous too. Love the thread!!


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## Arrowhunter (Jul 26, 2005)

had me wondering about the m-16 with the granade chuncker but I was fooled as well!


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## Big D UpNorth (May 24, 2007)

Very nice work. You mentioned earlier about using it for bow hunting as well. Have you tried to shoot a bow out of it yet? The bottom of the window looks kind of high if you hope to have a chance at shooting under 20 yards. But I guess you are the only one that can determine that based on your hunting and stand location.


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## thwackaddict (Sep 1, 2006)

Make sure you get some way figured out to anchor it down solid. My neighbor has one about that size and it is only about 5 feet off the ground and evry year the wind blows it over even though he has it stake down with a bunch of steel fence posts and wire. i would suggest some of those heavy screw in guy wire anchors.


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

C Svach said:


> Looking good Ron, How heavy do you think it is? How will you get it elevated? Just curious and a bit jealous too. Love the thread!!


Its modular and each wall will be erected on site once the legs and platform are positioned and anchored. The small walls weigh 50 Lbs. The large walls weigh 80 and the roof about 100. With my sons or brothers help, we will reconstruct the blind on location after I pre-build it in my shop.


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

Big D UpNorth said:


> Very nice work. You mentioned earlier about using it for bow hunting as well. Have you tried to shoot a bow out of it yet? The bottom of the window looks kind of high if you hope to have a chance at shooting under 20 yards. But I guess you are the only one that can determine that based on your hunting and stand location.


This first one is for my father to use while gun gunting and hunting with his crossbow but a future design that works for both a gun and vert bow is already in the works.


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

thwackaddict said:


> Make sure you get some way figured out to anchor it down solid. My neighbor has one about that size and it is only about 5 feet off the ground and evry year the wind blows it over even though he has it stake down with a bunch of steel fence posts and wire. i would suggest some of those heavy screw in guy wire anchors.


This stand will have several anchors. I already have all the materials including 3/16 steel cable. I will spent a lot of effort to anchor the stand even though its location will really only get winds from the South.


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

After spending a few hours in the warm sunshine, the rubber roofing material was easy to smooth and flatten. The wooden strips around the perimeter help hold it in place.












Then I used clear silicone caulk all around the top where the rubber meets the wood. This roof should last a very long time.


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

looking really good!


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Very entertaining! the walls laid out on the carpet should have given it away but I didn't notice until I scrolled down. Very nicely done.

That is one massive ferocious looking guard dog!


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

Yesterday I built the frame for the floor. Its made from treated 2 x 6 with joists on 16 inch centers. Then because I had lots of scrap ends, I filled in the joist spaces with additional blocking. Is it overkill?? You bet. I don’t want a floor that creeks and groans. I’m building it once so I want it too be strong rather than wish I would have when its too late to do anything about it. 










The first layer of ½” OSB was screwed down after laying beads of construction adhesive on all the joists. Then I laid down more construction adhesive and another layer of ½ OSB










Now I have a floor that an inch thick that is both glued and screwed. Is it over kill?? You bet it is.


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

overkill .. yes 

solid and worry free ...YES


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## rand_98201 (Sep 24, 2008)

looks good so far


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

I’ve moved the stand deck out to the back patio because I need the room to build the larger parts of the stand. I leveled it up because when I poured the back patio I used a lot of slope for good drainage. Eventually I will bring all the walls out here as well and give them a test run before shipping the stand to its permanent home. I would rather discover surprises in the shop than out in the woods. 










I painted the exposed edges even though the door threshold will cover this area and the OSB on the door will protect it. I just figured it was better safe than sorry with melting snow.










Then I framed up both of the sides of the base and marked the pieces and disassembled them.










If you go all the way back to the beginning of this project you will see I had intended to use a ladder to get into the stand. Since this stand will be used by hunters in their 80’s as well as little kids. I went back to the drawing board (literally) and designed a very easy to climb set of stairs. The cost and time went up a bit but will make for a better and safer climb. While the plan does not show it I will be adding more vert railing on both the hand rail and the deck rail.










I don’t know what it is about treated lumber but finding 2, 12 foot long 2 x 8’s meant sorting through a lot of warped and twisted junk to get two that were usable.










It was a fun rainy Sunday project. Its going to take more than a couple guys to raise and position this staircase. Its pretty heavy. The stair treads are 2 x 10 x 24 inches.




























Now I need to get back to making all the sliding plexiglass windows for the rest of the blind.


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## goathollow (Jun 18, 2008)

Good golly Molly!! I've seen bomb shelters not built that well!


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## NYBowNut (Feb 13, 2011)

I have a dumb question.... how are you going to move that behemoth to the stand site? That's got to weigh a ton. I like every part of it but I probably wold have built as much of it as I could in the field.


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

The stand has been on hold for several days as a family member has had some medical issues I have had to deal with on their behalf. I did have an opportunity to redesign the windows and how they will be constructed to simplify making them. Its a simple lap joint ans a slot for the plexiglass. Soon I will be back to work on the stand but sometimes life gets in the way.


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

NYBowNut said:


> I have a dumb question.... how are you going to move that behemoth to the stand site? That's got to weigh a ton. I like every part of it but I probably wold have built as much of it as I could in the field.


The stand parts are all modular. Its being assembled in pieces in my shop and the parts will be transported to the final site. The small walls weigh only 50 pounds. The large walls 80, the roof, about 90, the stairs about 100. The legs and base were pre-assembled and them marked and disassembled and will be reassembled on site so its not like I have to move the entire completed statnd.


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## Garceau (Sep 3, 2010)

Ron - not sure if I mentioned this before. If your windows are going to slide, and have several pieces where they slide along them selves to open up shooting positions in various and varying locations.

I put in some alum U-Channel from menards. The windows slide very easily and very quietly. Much better than just a dado or router cut into the wood.


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

Thanks, these windows are vert. Sliders (up and down like a casement window) not side to side.


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## Garceau (Sep 3, 2010)

I see - I had originally designed my current stand with verticals....but since it was facing into the wind I didnt want all the windows open at one time early in the morning so I went side by side route.

they slide in and past each other so I could have enough open to shoot through and still be able to duck out of the wind if need be - however we havent had a real cold hunt the past few years.


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

Window construction Is under way. Waiting for coats of paint to dry is taking too much time in the chilly weather.



















In the meantime, I decided to add a little pitch to the roof to make sure the rain and snow are pitched away from the side with the stairs and the door. I ripped a couple wedges that fade from 1 ½ thick to zero thick. Then I cut some ports in between the bays to act as air vents. Then I covered them with aluminum mesh sheet to keep bats and wasps out. I will put a inlet air vent in the bottom of one of the walls. This way, when the stand is sealed up over the summer and its 100+ degrees outside, the stand will be able to breath a bit.





































While waiting for the windows to dry I am making the tracks that they will run in.


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## moosemeat (Jul 31, 2011)

excellent job,good ideas and pictures of the process are really good,i was looking at these other towers .


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

All the windows are made and painted and the tracks installed. Time to start insulating and covering the inside walls with 1/4 inch OSB. I think I will paint the entire inside flat black. I also need to make the window counterweight system so no matter what position I want to lift the windows, they will stay up.


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## Infamousfrog (Sep 24, 2011)

That's sweet. Good job.


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## Bamabow (May 21, 2003)

Crabtree, you're a real craftsman. I've really enjoyed following this thread. Thanks for going to the trouble of posting all of this.


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

Bamabow said:


> Crabtree, you're a real craftsman. I've really enjoyed following this thread. Thanks for going to the trouble of posting all of this.


x2 THANKS!!


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## luv old #7 (Aug 14, 2011)

Nice work RC. Now is that going to be heated with wood or GFA? I just love this DIY forum. Good stuff.


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

I’m insulating it with 1 ½” thick ridged foam. He should be able to heat it with a flashlight or beer farts. Actually, a small green tank of Coleman propane with a heater head will more than warm this to a very comfortable temp that a 77 year old on blood thinners will be able to use comfortably during the November gun deer season.


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## deertick (May 18, 2010)

Somehow I just knew with the handle of Rancid Crabtree this thread would be interesting.
Thnak you


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## luv old #7 (Aug 14, 2011)

Rancid Crabtree said:


> I’m insulating it with 1 ½” thick ridged foam. He should be able to heat it with a flashlight or beer farts. Actually, a small green tank of Coleman propane with a heater head will more than warm this to a very comfortable temp that a 77 year old on blood thinners will be able to use comfortably during the November gun deer season.


I'd suggest a coleman stove. That way he could fry up them critters eating that foam. It's win - win. Heat-n-eat baby!


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

I started insulating the walls with ridged foam that 1.5 thick. I have some leftovers from the last meat smoker project so I didn’t need to purchase much additional foam.










After the insulation, I covered the wall with ¼ inch OSB.










Then gave the interior a spray coat of flat black.










For the bottom sections, I did the same except I had to create a smaller and uninsulated area for the window counter balance weights.










The ¼ thick OSB panel that covers the counter weight has to be removable should I need to service the weight. The other portions that never need to be removed are nailed in place.










I made a short video of the windows and the counterweight. The windows will stay open in any position without needing to prop them open. They slide well and are not too noisy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFziILaMUFk&feature=youtu.be

Because I have air vents at the top of the stand to vent off the hot air when the stand is sealed up during the off season, I needed an air inlet. I added a stainless steel mesh screen wrapped in an aluminum frame and then put a little rain guard above it. I placed it as close to the floor as I could. I think I have all the venting I need and hopefully the stand will have enough air flow to avoid getting moldy inside.










With the walls done I added a flip up shelf on the long wall and covered it with the same indoor/outdoor carpet I plan to use on the floor of the stand. Its hinged and can be lowered to lay flat against the wall when its not needed.



















Lifting it and swinging the angle support down lowers the shelf.


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## protonvx (Dec 28, 2011)

Looks great so far!


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## .BuckHunt. (May 12, 2008)

I think you have thought of about everything!


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

.BuckHunt. said:


> I think you have thought of about everything!


 I sure hope so, its being errected next weekend 3 hours from my shop.


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## luv old #7 (Aug 14, 2011)

Rancid Crabtree said:


> I sure hope so, its being errected next weekend 3 hours from my shop.


Let me know when you get here. I'll even help you unload. I hope all that work pays off for you. Nice job.


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## Ches (Aug 3, 2009)

Have you thought of building a little smoker in the courner? Lot's of idle time in a deer stand.

Ches.


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## isaacdahl (Feb 27, 2010)

Cup holders?


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

After some dry weather and a forecast for a nice weekend I reserved a U-Haul trailer to get the stand up north to where it will be erected. Friday afternoon I was loaded and ready to go.










I enlisted the help of 2 of my brothers and a nephew. Was started at 8:00 on Sat morning. Building the stand didn’t leave a lot of time of picture taking but I did my best.










We flipped the stand over and set it on cement pads and leveled it.



















Than anchored it in 4 locations with 3/16 cable and steel posts driven deep into the ground.



















The pre-made stair case was the next addition.










Then it was time to attach the walls.



















Putting up the last wall and the roof was a chore and I forgot to stop for pictures. It wasn’t until I finished the stair railing that I remembered to take more pictures. Here is the finished stand.


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

Here it is with the windows open and shutters down.










Here is the view looking North from the porch. There is a river that became a pond a few years ago when beavers dammed it up. You can see all the trees that died from being under water. The beaver problem is gone but the damage remains.










The view looking West. you can see 440 yards.










Looking North you can 1,000 yards to the farm.










Looking East to the river. I need to cut some shooting lanes.










When the stand was finished I attended a first communion celebration for my niece. Then I came back with my father to show him the completed stand. He liked it and it was easy to climb the staircase with his 77 year old knees.



















I started the design of this stand back in Dec of last year (2011). It took 5 months to complete working on and off as time and weather would allow. It was a fun project that several people will be able to enjoy for years to come.


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

WELL DONE Rancid! well done. Thanks for not only sharing the plans and pics with us, but for putting a stand in place to share with your family and friends. There's no telling what kind of positive impact that one project can have!


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## huntin4Christ (Sep 3, 2009)

I just came across this thread and may I say FANTASTIC work. You did an awesome job with this project and you put in the time and effort to make it really special. I hope you guys are able to have many great memories from this blind.


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

I expect several years of more comfortable hunting for my Dad. This means he will stay hunting longer.


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## rutnstrut (Sep 16, 2003)

Great job RC, my only critique is why not paint the legs and steps also? Doesn't make much sense to camo the box and not the base.


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## Bigboar (Sep 18, 2010)

rutnstrut said:


> Great job RC, my only critique is why not paint the legs and steps also? Doesn't make much sense to camo the box and not the base.


My guess would be that the base is pressure treated lumber and doesn't need painting, but the blind is standard lumber and needed some kind of treatment, so why not camo paint. The base will also probably start turing gray in a couple of years and pressure treated doesn't paint well.


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## prairieboy (Aug 19, 2009)

Very well done!


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

rutnstrut said:


> Great job RC, my only critique is why not paint the legs and steps also? Doesn't make much sense to camo the box and not the base.


I am waiting for the treated lumber to dry enough to paint it.


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## rutnstrut (Sep 16, 2003)

Rancid Crabtree said:


> I am waiting for the treated lumber to dry enough to paint it.


I wondered about that after I posted, painted or not it's still great work.


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## goathollow (Jun 18, 2008)

I've been following this build out thread and I have to say this is just about THE sweetest shooting house I've ever seen. I wish I had your skills.

One thought on your tie downs. I've not done this myself but I've seen it done. You can purchase heavy duty screw in ground anchors like those shown in the link below. Put one screw in anchor centered under the house and run your four cables to it. (You will need about a 4ft pipe to get it screwed in all the way.) It eliminates having cables stretch outward from the four corners. That eliminates hanging yourself in dark, or someone else, in the dark.

http://www.gmesupply.com/wire-rope-guying/ground-anchors


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## Rancid Crabtree (Sep 12, 2007)

Thanks for the link to the anchors. The ground there is a bit too rocky for such an anchor.


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## goathollow (Jun 18, 2008)

Rancid Crabtree said:


> Thanks for the link to the anchors. The ground there is a bit too rocky for such an anchor.


Givent the detail you put in to the rest of the shooting house I should have assumed that you would have already thought of anchoring mechanism :thumbs_up


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## Mr. Man (Sep 19, 2011)

RC, that is one awesome piece of work. Hope your dad kills a big 'un out of there.


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## C Svach (Jun 8, 2011)

Nice Job Ron, I wish my garage was that nice. Not to be nosy but do you remember how much you have into it. Im doing a smaller one minus the 
4x4 platform. I have a metal frame a friend fabricated. Thanks Congrats on a job well done!!!


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## Greyguitar13 (Feb 10, 2010)

A close alternative to those forged eye screw anchors (for those can use them)...... You can buy a shed anchor kit from Home Depot or Lowes that has the wire rope, wire clips and 4 screw anchors for like $25.00.


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## walks with a gi (Oct 1, 2002)

Not on a tower but it has 5 sides and windows.


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## walks with a gi (Oct 1, 2002)

Well, I guess 6 sides..


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## Raymond 1 (Feb 23, 2010)

Very Nice, congrats. You wouldn't have building plans and a materials list for that would you?
Thanks,
Raymond


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## DarnYankee (Oct 24, 2007)

This is what AT is all about. Thx for sharing and giving me ideas.


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## siowabowhunter (Feb 22, 2012)

looks great! but I think you should of used treated lumber


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## KSHammers1 (Oct 9, 2009)

Tagged


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## wdtorque (May 5, 2011)

Rancid, way good. That treated wood will developed a nice patina and look great! I'm sure you Pop is elated. 
What do y'all do about snow, ice, on steps? We don't have that problem down here.
Walks, great looking stand. Color me impressed.


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## T-BONE 93 (Feb 19, 2008)

Great work. Very skilled. Kill anything out of it this year.


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## edthearcher (Nov 2, 2002)

i doubt you will get a answer, if you search back he was baned from AT


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