# Anyone want to know how?



## isaacdahl (Feb 27, 2010)

I'm interested!

Sounds like a fun project.


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## outdoorsman3 (Nov 15, 2010)

DITTO^^ dude that would be an awesome project. teach me fine sir


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## outdoorkid1 (Nov 20, 2010)

:iamwithstupid:


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## outdoorsman3 (Nov 15, 2010)

outdoorkid1 said:


> :iamwithstupid:


hey now


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## archerykid13 (Aug 11, 2009)

I'm up for it.

Jake


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## arhoythunter (Aug 3, 2010)

Me 2


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## outdoorkid1 (Nov 20, 2010)

outdoorsman3 said:


> hey now


:sorry:


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## outdoorsman3 (Nov 15, 2010)

outdoorkid1 said:


> :sorry:


:dog1::dog1::dog1::dog1::dog1::dog1::dog1::dog1::dog1:


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## texashoghunter (Dec 26, 2010)

Im in!


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## outdoorsman3 (Nov 15, 2010)

would you make a video or something?? how much would this cost?


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Outdoorsman3- My instruction on making selfbows is always free! The bow itself might cost you a few dollars for the string and finish, or however much you might need for the basic tools (rasp and hatchet are the bare necessities). I'd post pictures of the bow and what not as it's being built, along with an explanation of what I did at each step. It seems there's plenty of interest, so it looks like I'll get started then 

If you'd like an example, there's an in-depth explanation on my site in my signature.

Actually, I'll be doing two bows, one for me (potential hunting stick) and one for a friend who is just learning how to shoot (shorter, light draw plinking stick). I'll start with hers as it'll be easy to replace if "super quick drying" turns out to be a failure:wink:.


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## outdoorsman3 (Nov 15, 2010)

I meant like the bow itself, I want a hunting bow, maybe 50 pounds.


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## isaacdahl (Feb 27, 2010)

50lbs is pretty hefty to start out with. I have my grandpa's old 53lb recurve and although I can pull it back, I can't hold it very long. It seems crazy but 50lbs on a stick bow is completely different than 50lbs on a compound. 

I think when I build mine I'm going to try to get it at 40# or maybe a little under. JMO though, I'm sure Kegan could answer that better.


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## outdoorsman3 (Nov 15, 2010)

I was thinkin that too, maybe 45ish.


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## outdoorkid1 (Nov 20, 2010)

I would like something around 50-60lbs because I have a 38lbs recurve and it seems very easy to draw back to 28". I would be using it for hunting small game and deer in the fall if I got good enough.


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## need-a-bow (Aug 10, 2010)

You can easily kill a deer with a 40lb bow. I did a penetration test with some old 3 blade broadheads a neighbor gave me(not sure on brand) on a dead sheeps carcass and found that even at 32lbs I got good penetration at 15 yds(about 15'') and I bet it would be better if I wasnt shooting 2219 full lenght shafts


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## outdoorsman3 (Nov 15, 2010)

40 lbs is the requirement to kill a deer.


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## outdoorkid1 (Nov 20, 2010)

I would still stick with something thats 50-60lbs but thats just my opinion


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## .22outdoorsmen (Jul 6, 2010)

outdoorsman3 said:


> 40 lbs is the requirement to kill a deer.


35 Here. I have always wanted my own recurve. I wish I could build one.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Outdoorsman- Building your own, it'll cost however much you want it to cost. Including string and finish, it's about $3 per bow. I sell selfbows for $90-$150 depending on the style. For that cost it obviously doesn't cost much to make one, even including time (if you know what you're doing). If you'd like to make a really good one, you'd need a bow scale of your own (as it's used extensively in the building process) which would set you back somewhere around $50-75. Not really a big deal if you have a couple friends in the neighbor hood that would want to build bows too, everyone could chip in. I've had mine for years and it's certainly paid for itself.

.22- Why can't you build one? The whole purpose of this thread will be to show you how to make your own bow, and I even have a how to on fiberglass laminated bows on my site.

As for draw weight: you can't handle the weight you want to when you start off. Sorry, won't happen. Especially for younger folks. Your best bet would be to make your first bow at 30-40# and shoot that for a time as you build a new heavier one for later. Make the next one five pounds heavier, say 40#. Then another at 45#, then another at 50#. Doing it this way you'll be able to increase your draw more comfortably and, more importantly, _you'll learn how to shoot accurately much more quickly!_ I have a friend who's in the Marines, went through boot camp and said he loved it, works out all the time and is as strong as can be, who ordered a bow from me at 40-45#. He could easily pull my 65# hunting bow back and even my almost 80# bow, but knew there was no reason to kill himself trying to muscle it back. On top of that, lighter bows are easier to make, less likely to break, and less prone to over stress!

A 40-45# wooden bow may seem like a toy to some, but it's more than enough _if you can get close enough _and put a good, heavy arrow with a solid two blade COC head into the boiler room. I personally shoot bows around 65#, but that's after years of building up to that weight (I started with 20# when I was about 13). I could have even slowed down further and spent more time practicing with lighter bows to be more accurate than I am. I'm not going to lie, it's not as easy to become accurate enough with a stick bow as it is to make one. They're a lot of fun, but if you want to be serious about hunting with one, you should put the time in and do it the right way. Build up slowly, and be super selective about your shots. 

Of course, that's not to say you need to wait years before chasing game with one. If in your local shots under 15 yards are the norm, then there's no reason you can't go out within a year or so- so long as you make sure you can put your arrow right where you want it to go within whatever range you feel comfortable (5-15 yards). Of course, that's all part of the challenge of stickbows: how close _can_ you get? 

I'm sorting out the first set of photos now. I'll post them up when I get them finished.


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## outdoorsman3 (Nov 15, 2010)

where do we get the wood and stuff??


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## outdoorkid1 (Nov 20, 2010)

kegan said:


> As for draw weight: you can't handle the weight you want to when you start off. Sorry, won't happen. Especially for younger folks. Your best bet would be to make your first bow at 30-40# and shoot that for a time as you build a new heavier one for later. Make the next one five pounds heavier, say 40#. Then another at 45#, then another at 50#. Doing it this way you'll be able to increase your draw more comfortably and, more importantly, _you'll learn how to shoot accurately much more quickly!_ I have a friend who's in the Marines, went through boot camp and said he loved it, works out all the time and is as strong as can be, who ordered a bow from me at 40-45#. He could easily pull my 65# hunting bow back and even my almost 80# bow, but knew there was no reason to kill himself trying to muscle it back. On top of that, lighter bows are easier to make, less likely to break, and less prone to over stress!
> 
> A 40-45# wooden bow may seem like a toy to some, but it's more than enough _if you can get close enough _and put a good, heavy arrow with a solid two blade COC head into the boiler room. I personally shoot bows around 65#, but that's after years of building up to that weight (I started with 20# when I was about 13). I could have even slowed down further and spent more time practicing with lighter bows to be more accurate than I am. I'm not going to lie, it's not as easy to become accurate enough with a stick bow as it is to make one. They're a lot of fun, but if you want to be serious about hunting with one, you should put the time in and do it the right way. Build up slowly, and be super selective about your shots.


I just wouldn't want to make a bow at the poundage I already have. If I made one that was something like 40lbs, I wouldn't want to make it because I already have one thats 38lbs. I would have two bows that are almost the same except the 2 lbs difference and the fact that I made it myself. I already have a stick bow thats 38lbs that I can draw back extremely comfortably.I still would like something like 50-60lbs for hunting because my 38lb recurve is launching those arrows at something like 150fps and I wouldn't feel comfortable shooting that at a deer at 20 yards. Besides, my uncle has a recurve thats 58lbs and I could draw it back and aim comfortably so something between 50-60lbs would be great. I wouldn't want another 40lbs recurve.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

*Let's build a bow!*

Let's start. We're going to be making D bows, which are basically bows whose handle area match the limbs. No stiff sections. Many folks pad them up with leather or cork, but these bend with the handle. No extra wood. They also don't have cut out arrow shelves. No worries, you can glue that on too later. Basically, it will be like a tapered yardstick. Very simple and easy to make, and if you watch what you're doing, suprisingly effective!

Any hardwood will make a bow. Oak, hickory, elm, black walnut, ash, maple, birch, locust*, Osage orange*, mulberry*, and any fruit, thorn, or nut bearing tree (like apple, persimmon, and plum to name a select few) will make a bow. You're looking for any wood with a density, or specific gravity, over .50. Cherry is .50. Willow and pine are .30. Sugar maple is about .60, and hickory and white oak are about .70. Woods marked with an "*" are woods whose heartwood becomes the primary section of the bow, and whose sapwood (the lighter wood just under the bark) is prone is checking. If you use one of them, shellac the bow as soon as you finish working it for the day, or else it might get ruined.

Bow wood density determines how much draw you can get from a bow at the same dimensions. For a light draw bow, any wood will work. For a hunting bow, look for denser woods. I like about 65# so I use the densest woods I have, hickory and occasionally white oak. Using a lighter wood I would have to make the bow wider or longer to safely reach the weight I want. You can't expect to get 70# from a 60" cherry bow that's only 1" wide, but ipe would work fine. Likewise, Osage is a little too dense to make a 25# bow that's 68" long, but sassafras would work well. Choose a good wood for the weight, width, and length you want. 

Now, if you have access to a woodlot, select a straight, knot free tree of about 4-6" in diameter, or a good branch. Don't over look branches. Branch wood is actually denser than trunk wood, and so makes an excellent bow. I prefer hickory because it's the strongest wood, in tension, that can be found just about anywhere. Tension is the force on the back of the bow, compression the force on the belly. Tension holds the bow together, and compression provides the "spring". Weak tension breaks a bow, and weak compression makes a bow that is slow and unsatisfactory. 

In addition to being a strong, dense wood, hickory is also very easy to dry. Maple, ash, birch, elm, and oak are all easy to dry as well. Here, any wood that is mostly sapwood will be easy to dry. If you're unsure, just shellac it in between working sessions anyway. 

Knowing that I will be making lots of bows, I cut a tree about 7" in diameter and cut it into six foot sections with a bow saw. Good exercise, the one tree yielded four six foot sections and one four and a half foot section. I then split each section in half using a large knife I ground from a leaf spring and a long wedge of hickory. You can start the split with anything, but a hickory splitter is hard to beat. Some sections were large enough so that each half could be split again into quarters, and in the case of the bottom section, sixths. There were well over sixteen staves when I was done. For your first attempt, it makes sense to just cut a branch to get one, or two staves.

The stave I'm using will be for the first bow is a quarter split (*photo 1*).

If you don't have access to trees you can cut, you can go to Home Depot or Lowes. There are 1x2 (actually 3/4" by 1 1/2") hardwood boards usually. Red oak is the most common, but hickory and maple are preferable if you can find them. Select one without knots that is STRAIGHT GRAINED. A little wiggle or run off towards the ends is acceptable, but no curled grain. Straight grain makes bows, run offs and knots make firewood. Lumber bows make up for their cost by not needing to be dried. Of course, dried wood is harder to work, and you will need to work more slowly reducing it to shape.

Now, during the summer when you cut wood the bark it will be wet and will peel right off. Early spring, fall, and winter the bark will be stuck fast and you will need to remove it. I use a draw knife, and it's really the only easy way to do it. You can carve the bark off but the best bet without a drawknife would be to just wait until summer is in bloom and the bark peels off. 

When debarking, just remove the outside coat of bark and leave the soft inner bark. This will discolor as it dries and eventually peel off. The wood under the bark will be the back, the tension side. DO NOT CUT INTO THE BACK OF THE BOW. It will lead to a risk of breakage (*photo 2*). If you're using a heartwood, remove the outer layer of sapwood (except mulberry, mulberry sapwood is fine) down to one growth ring of the heartwood. This can be challenging, so if you can't do it just leave it and I'll touch on how to back a bow later with cloth.

Once the bow has the outer most bark removed, mark the length and the center. The length should be twice the bow's intended draw at least, and preferably more than that. For my bows at 29" draw, I like 66" between the nocks, so a 67" long stave. This bow will be a very light draw bow for a young woman whose draw shouldn't be more than 26 or 27", so I can get away with using a short 53" stave. Starting long will reduce chance of breakage, and if the bow is too light will allow you to cut it shorter for more weight. I won't need more weight, as the lighter the better in this case.

Also, your draw length on trad bows will be 1" or 2" shorter than with a compound. I'm at least six feet tall with a 74" wingspan and draw 29" to the corner of my mouth, if you're only 5'7" it's unlikely that your selfbow will need a 31" draw. Just keep that in mind 

With the center marked, I use a weighted string to mark the center line (*photo 3*). I trace the line and mark out the width. This bow will be dried very quickly in a hot box, so i need it to be as wide as possible to avoid really wild warping. I can get 1 1/2" out of it, so I cut the width. A 2" wide bow will be nearly impossible to warp. Final bow width will be around 1 1/8" to 1 3/8". I make very sure that the sides are parallel. This makes it easy to cut the thickness(*photo 4*).

Thickness for this bow will be 1/2" in the middle four inches (handle area) tapering straight to 1/4" thick tips. I mark the points and use my hand to guide a pencil along the sides, gently tightenning to get the taper. It's the easiest way to do this, and only requires a little practice. Staves usually wiggle, and this helps you around that(*photo 5*). For a heavier hunting bow, I taper from 3/4" thick at the center tapering to 3/8" thick tips. If it's too heavy, I can always remove some wood later, if it's too light I can just shorten it or apply a sinew backing. Wooden bows have lots of wiggle room 

Right now you should have a somewhat narrowed plank that's very thick. You could use a power saw to thin it, but it's far easier to just split off pieces a little at a time. Don't try to split the thin bow from the large belly wedge, as it will split off a small peice and ruin the bow. A little at a time goes a long way (*photo 6*).

After getting off some bigger pieces, I go and chop the corners down to the lines. This gives me a trianlge along the belly whose bottom edges run along my thickness lines (*photo 7*). Onc the triangle is made with the only ridge of thickness left in the center, I carefully thin it down with the draw knife (*photo 8*). Here a good rasp or even the hatchet would also suffice, but there are knots and knots rip out grain when you use a hatchet. Oh, if you use a hatchet, make sure it's very, very sharp.

Once you have the belly trimmed down, you should have a nice little plank ready for drying (*photo 9*). Heartwoods should be covered in shellac, but wite woods can be let to dry quickly. If your bow is narrow, 1 1/4" or less, strap it to a board to prevent warping. 

At this point, before you set it to dry, you'll want to see how it bends a little. This is the first step in tillering, or getting the right bend. Floor tillering is bending one limb at a time against the floor. You then swap the bow end for end and do the same with the other limb, watching for weak points or a weak limb. If you find a stiff limb or stiff spot, file it or scrape it down. No need to remove a lot, a little goes a long way. Repeat.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Sorry about the jumbled pictures, my bad.

Outdoorkid- If you only draw 26" or so on a compound, you're probably not reaching those full weights on those bows, probably 6-10# less than what they're marked at 28". Your draw will shorten on a traditional bow. You'd also be one of the very few who can actually "aim comfortably" with a 58# without having practiced extensively. Again, my brother is another hulking beast who shoots a 55# longbow and even he has unease with a 60# bow. For how long? Three shots, three hours? BOW DESIGN has more control over speed than weight, and a stick bow can only shoot so fast. Use a heavier arrow for lethality, 500-600 grs at least. A _great_ selfbow will only shoot about 175 fps with a 10 gpp arrow, and arrows lighter than 8 gpp won't shoot much faster. You might want to try 45# at 26", but if you let ego cloud your judgement you won't be killing anything ethically either way.

Another way to tiller for short bows is to bend the bow over your knee gently(*photo 11*). Right now the wood is green, so only SMALL bends. Large bends will cause string follow- permanent bend- that make your bow slower.

In addition to bending, check for low and high spots with your fingers (*photo 12*). These cause failure. File or scrape down high spots now as best you can.

Once the bow is looking alright, it's time to dry it. I'm using a hot box, just 1/2" plyood insulated with foam insulation. The heat comes from three light fixtures. I tuck the bow in the box and now... we wait.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

The first five pictures that were lost in cyber space.

Sorry about the screwy order of them. I number them in case this stuff happens.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Sorry that it's sorta "intense", but are there any questions so far? It's still drying and I have errands to run today, but hopefully this weekend I'll be able to start on mine, the second bow. 

The second bow will be very straight forward and simple, "this is what to use and this is what size to make it" sorta stuff.


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## outdoorsman3 (Nov 15, 2010)

well I would like to start, but I dont have any wood.


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## outdoorkid1 (Nov 20, 2010)

outdoorsman3 said:


> well I would like to start, but I dont have any wood.


I don't have much wood around either so I think I will go to menards and see if I can find something.


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## muzzyman1212 (Mar 28, 2009)

I will make one this summer if I have time.


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## bow hunter11 (Dec 7, 2010)

outdoorsman3 said:


> 40 lbs is the requirement to kill a deer.


Here in nebraska there is no requirement to kill a deer on the poundage


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## texashoghunter (Dec 26, 2010)

looking good!! Now I need to find some wood.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

I had the day off yesterday and my friend Art came over to shoot and build some bows. I got the following done on my bow:

I started by cutting the stave to length (67" over the whole length). Like before, I left the inner bark intact.

Next I mark the center of the length, and use a string to get a centerline. From the centerline I mark 3/4" on each side so the width will be 1 1/2" before drying.

Then I narrow the bow with a drawknife and hatchet.

With the width cut out and both sides parallel and clean, I mark out the thickness, 3/4" at the middle 4" tapering to 3/8" thick at the tips. I split off the big excess and chop down the rest.

And I'm ready for drying. It's probably a little too thick at the center (even for 65# at 29"), but I can always thin it more later. I forgot to mention, I used a hot box but you don't need one. At this point the bow is very thin, and so long as you leave it in a warm, well ventilated, dry spot it should dry within a few weeks. Outside on a summer day or in a parked car in the sun will both help speed drying some.

Onto board bows...


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

For those of you who can't cut wood, boards will work well also. Red and white oak, maple, ash, walnut, pecan, and hickory all make excellent board bows. Red oak is best for bows 50# or under, but maple, white oak, and hickory can make bows upwards of 60#, or more if you get a dense piece.

Just choose STRAIGHT grain, NO KNOTS, and good dense wood. You'll have to search, but inferior boards won't make bows.

Using a hatchet on a board might lead to tear outs, so hew cuts in to prevent deep splitting. Other than that, just use a rasp and hatchet to cut it to the following dimensions:

-5/8" thick in the middle 4" tapering to the 3/8" thick tips
-1 3/8" wide from mid limb to mid limb

Taper the width of the outer limbs should be straight from the middle of the limb to 3/8" wide tips. Then you check the floor tiller off the floor to get a feel for how close the limbs are balanced and see if there are any weak spots/stiff spots.

I do my nocks as pin nocks, which are just two narrow shelves on the side of each tip. They work great, and when rounded off they look great and help reduce hand shock. Here's a photo.

I'll start tillering soon, which is the main part of bow making. When I'm done tillering this red oak bow the hickory bows might be dry and then I'll try to cover some of the neat ways you can decorate these deceptively simple bows.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Oh, to clarify on the grain for boards: you only need to look at the broad sides of the boards for striaght grain. The narrow sides can wiggle or run off, that won't matter in terms of the bow's durability.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Well, I decided I'd just finish this board bow out for my friend, as it was looking to be nice and light already.

Here's a photo of what good grain for a board is: nothing but perfectly straight lines on the broad face. 

Anyway, with the bow roughed out and the nocks cut, it's time to tiller. Tiller is the part where you actually turn a stick into a bow, or see if you've just been working firewood this whole time. Start with a long tillering rope and a tillering stick (as you can see, it's just a 2x4 with a notch for the bow handle, and notches down the side to hold the string). The tillering rope should be long enough to loop on both nocks without bending the bow, but shouldn't be too slack. A timber hitch at one end makes it nice and adjustable.

Start by bending it only a small amount, a couple inches. Is one limb much stiffer than the other? If so, scrape/file down the belly on that limb some. Are there weak points? If so, file/scrape all the stiff spots around it. Pull it a little further. Check it all again. When you reach brace height, it should look something like the one in the photo. Mine here was bending too much in the handle, so I filed the middle of the limbs down some. 

Once you get it to brace height, it's time to brace it. I'll cover how to make a string after this (tomorrow?) but for now let's look ahead at the rest of the tillering process.

You'll need a yardstick and a scale to use No Set Tillering. NST is the easiest way to get a bow that not only shoots as fast as possible, but also that LASTS. No starting the day with a bow that really flings them and then going home with a weak noodle. Put the yardstick so that the 1 3/4" mark is where your hand sits on the belly side. This is AMO draw length, so you'll know how it compares to others.

Draw the bow to 16" and check the draw weight. Let's say it's 25#. Draw to 17", and let down. Now draw to 16" again. Check the weight. If it's not 25#, then unstring the bow and check for high spots with your fingers, and scrape them down. You start again, draw to 16" and check the weight. Let down and then 17". Let down and back to 16". If the weight goes unchanged, the next time you draw to 18", and let down. Then 16" and check the weight. Let down and either scrape or draw to 19". Then 20". And so on until you reach full draw. 

When I finished I removed a number of high spots and wound up with about 30-35# at 28", which is perfect for a young woman with a 26" or so draw. The bow is 67" long nock to nock, and has 1" of set (total amount the tips have deflexed toward the archer from strain). That's pretty good.

Now, the bow is 1 3/8" wide from mid limb to mid limb, which is a little wide for a young woman to hold comfortably. So I'm going to narrow the bow to 1 1/8". This will drop the weight some, but the set will stay the same. If I wanted a heavier bow, I could cut the tips off and file new nocks. You can cut up to 6" off a bow this long for an average draw, and on stronger woods like maple or hickory gain a great deal of weight (up to 20# if you're careful) or the bow will break out right (like with red oak). Doing this will require you to either retiller the bow, or accept any set that results. Either way is fine, and I usually just accept any set that results myself if draw weight is my only goal. With as cheap as this stuff is, you may not care about breaking a light-weight piece of wood either. Again though, avoid going below the 2:1 ratio for bow length to draw length.

So far I've put in about five hours for all of these bows I've worked on. It's very fast and easy, and plenty of fun. Next I'll cover simple strings and decorations. Hopefully I'll be able to fo more on my bow by week's end.

There isn't much commenting going on, I'd appreciate any feedback from you guys. Too much info, not enough, what needs covered and what would you like to see? This whole thing is to help you guys make some stick bows in your spare time after all. Let me hear what you want


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## need-a-bow (Aug 10, 2010)

Its looking really good. Great tillering. I think a lot of guys are going to be making the board bow. Its what Ill do as soon as I can get my hands on a good board(been looking for about 7 months here in mexico and only found a few crappy oak boards).


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## texashoghunter (Dec 26, 2010)

I just need to go over and re-read it all about 5 times lol. Thanks a lot for doing this thread. I will be very interested to see after you decorate it!


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## bow hunter11 (Dec 7, 2010)

looks good


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## outdoorkid1 (Nov 20, 2010)

texashoghunter said:


> I just need to go over and re-read it all about 5 times lol. Thanks a lot for doing this thread. I will be very interested to see after you decorate it!


x2.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Thanks for the input guys. Like I said, keep it coming. More I hear from you, the more I'll know what to cover. Boards or staves, it's all good. 

Oh, I forgot to mention: before brancing the bow, I went and rounded all the edges down. This helps deter splinters from lifting.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

It's time to make a string. I'm using 10 strands of B50 for my friend's 30# bow. For any self bow up to 60# you can get away with 14 strands of B50. Over that 16 is best. I use similiar numbers for my FF strings, although a 16 strand FF has a nicer diameter than a tiny 14 strand on a 60#. Anyway.

Wind the string around two nails 10-12" farther apart than the bow. Cut the strings at each nail. Taper the ends by cutting the ends at an angle, this isn't necessary but helps get a smoother loop splice.

Now, this is a Flemmish string. It's fast, easy, and doesn't need a jig. I've built endless loop strings and they were a pain at times. You should have two bundles of 5, 6, 7, or 8 strands. Stagger them a little so one is 1" closer to you than the other. Starting about 6" away from the end, twist both bundles clockwise. Now, holding them both twist them both together counter-clockwise. Rope! Do this again, until you have a two-inch section of this little rope. Now fold it over onto itself- this is your loop. Now you have four strands hanging down. Two from each end of the loop. So take one bundle from each end and twist them together clockwise, and twist the two large bundles together counter-clockwise. Continue down until about 1" beyond where the thick bundles end. 

There, you have a Flemmish loop. Now, I just braid the other end for selfbows like this, and tie it into a timber hitch. You can just make another Flemmish loop at the other end without issue, it's all the same. When you make it a true Flemmish string with two loops, beware of it being too short. If it's too long, you can just twist it to shorten it, but too short and it will put too much strain on your bow. The string should be about 2"- 3" shorter for a D bow like this. 

Remember, all strings with a Flemmish loop will need some twists in them to keep together.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Now, as for the bow itself I just took a scraper and some sandpaper and got rid of as many marks as possible. I then applied the first coat of stain. I'm not sure how many it will tkae to get a nice red color for her, but on my bows with walnut or ebony I usually use four or five coats. By that point the stain is very dark and has a nice gloss. After that it'll be time for finish, then decorations.

Oh, I forgot to mention but you can serve the string with nylon serving using a serving tool. They're pretty cheap, but if you just want a beater-plinker bow, you don't even need to serve it. Just make sure your nocks are smooth.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Well, there seems to be a rapidly waning interest in this thread. I went to shoot 3D today and my bow tip broke, so I'm going to take some time from finishing the other bow in this thread and make myself a new flatbow until I can get myself a new hybrid built. If anyone is looking to make their own, there should be enough here and plenty more on my site, althought there doesn't appear to be very much interest at this point, must be the turkey season/end of school/start of 3D time of year that's got eveyrone busy.


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## need-a-bow (Aug 10, 2010)

Most guys are pretty busy this time of year. Im going to wait until II move to Illinois until I start(trying) to make any bows sinced I cant get any good bow wood here


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

need-a-bow said:


> Most guys are pretty busy this time of year


Very understandable, which is why I'm going to take a little time to make myself a new bow (otherwise I won't be shooting). 

Any questions just PM me, though.


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## doverpack12 (May 19, 2010)

Sounds like agreat idea. I have a log drying now i won't have time this summer maybe over the winter though.


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