# Accuracy of Easton Arrow Charts???



## arrowshooters (Jun 5, 2006)

I have the Easton Shaft Selector downloaded and it says your 2215 is right on. I have always gone with Easton's recommendations, but I have to shoot the heavy spines anyway.


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## Unclegus (May 27, 2003)

The chart is a little on the stiff side..


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## Limey (May 6, 2005)

I find the release set up work for me and this is if a shoot fingers or a release.

Remember the Proline HEW is not a hard cam their DFC was:darkbeer:


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## tothepoint (Dec 22, 2006)

unclegus 

I have that downloaded also but aren't coming up with a 2215. when I set the program parameters to 65# @27" with a 100 grain point, hard cam, finger release, no overdraw and brace height > 6.5. It comes up with a range of 2413, 2314,2315 and 2216. Which the average spine for that range is 367.5

A 2215 doesn't come up until the shaft length gets down to 25-26". Which is the complete opposite of the 1992 Easton catalog you so kindly sent me (thanks again). The catalog recommends for a compound bow @ 63-69# a 2215 should be used at 28 to 29 inches.

I'm probably going to go with a 3-49 A/C/C, I'm using my current shaft (2215) to identify what sized ACC to use based on its spine.


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## Unclegus (May 27, 2003)

Just keep in mind that a shaft that is a little overspined is easier to deal with than an underspined one.


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## Manhunter50 (Oct 23, 2006)

*I'm with Unclegus...*



Unclegus said:


> Just keep in mind that a shaft that is a little overspined is easier to deal with than an underspined one.


I've been shooting with fingers for a long time and I have always found that a stiffer shaft is much easier to tune than one with a lighter spine/more deflection. I go with the stiffer shafts and change point weight, arrow length, and/or draw weight to get the best arrow shaft.

For example, I'm shooting Beman 9.3 340s at 29 inches with 145 grain screw-in points on my Ross Competition, but only drawing 61 pounds. I'm getting perfect arrow flight and stacking the arrows pretty consistently.

In this case, I started out with 100 grain points and began working my way up. I got very close with the 145s, made some minor adjustments to my draw weight and started shooting nice, tight groups.

Another consideration is your shooting style. While release shooters can maintain a pretty consistent release, some of us finger shooters cause a lot more deflection in the string than others, which will generally dictate a stiffer shaft as well.


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## archerm3 (Jan 4, 2007)

Manhunter50 said:


> I've been shooting with fingers for a long time and I have always found that a stiffer shaft is much easier to tune than one with a lighter spine/more deflection. I go with the stiffer shafts and change point weight, arrow length, and/or draw weight to get the best arrow shaft.
> 
> For example, I'm shooting Beman 9.3 340s at 29 inches with 145 grain screw-in points on my Ross Competition, but only drawing 61 pounds. I'm getting perfect arrow flight and stacking the arrows pretty consistently.
> 
> ...


Amen


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## tothepoint (Dec 22, 2006)

Manhunter50

I do something similar, but I start at the other end. 

I used this selection technique 15 years ago and plan on doing it again since no database can account for how clean of a release you have. Therefore I try to start out with a long lightweight shaft that charts say is soft about 1" to 2" past where I hope to end up. Then I shoot it using a 125 grain tip, if it ends up being to soft I replace the 125 grain with a 100 grain and reshoot. If it's still to soft I cut off anywhere from .5 to 1" of the shaft reinstall the 125g tip and reshoot. still to soft install the 100g and try again. I repeat this process until I'm bare shafting to the same impact points as my fletched.

The reason I do it this way is because when you finally find the correct length you end up with the lightest (fastest) shooting arrow. If you start out stiff to begin with you can only do 2 things. 1) crank some more poundage into the bow, which if your're already topped out like me isn't an option, or 2) increase your tip weight like your doing which results in a heavier (slower) arrow.

I'm NOT saying you're wrong in what you're doing. It works.. I'm just suggesting a different approach might net you a better result.

In any case.. back to my original question. What arrow length and size does the beman chart say you should be using and how does it compare to real life..

That's the simple question I'm asking everyone to respond with, sort of a survey if you will.. So let's all assume we're all shooting compounds with fingers and just post our bow weights, arrow size and length and what weight tip we're using. And if you know it the most important factor what your actual FPS is.


Example: 65# 2215 @ 27" w 100g = 226 fps


If you post them I'll tally them up and put them out on a spreadsheet showing how they compare to the mfg charts.

the results could save some or all of us a bunch of time money and frustration in the future. You got nothing to lose by participating.


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