# how do you yoke tune a floating yoke (mathews monster)



## labonte.r (Oct 1, 2010)

Shim cams


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## patches2565 (Jun 21, 2015)

I was new to the floating yoke deal and had the same issue. Couple things

I changed around my grip and messed with arrow configuration. Both along with rest manipulating help a ton. And like the above said you can shim or if a new mathews move top hats.

Update: I missed where you said it's a monster. I have just very recently tuned my MR6 and MR5 with no issues. Perhaps tinkering with grip and arrow set up might help. 

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## lees (Feb 10, 2017)

You don't. The idea of floating yokes is to let the bow set the "natural" cam lean on its own for you, so you don't have to monkey with it yourself. For tuning, you just move the rest as was done way back in the days of Yore, before anyone even knew that there was such a thing as cam lean. 

Most of the time, yoke tuning is just an alternative to moving the rest so that the rest stays at a looks-right centershot. The same thing normally can be achieved by windage adjustment of the rest, but the result in most cases just doesn't "look right", which acts like a wood worm in the mind of the shooter . 

I'm just as guilty of that with my PSE's by the way. I fanatically keep the rest aligned with the marks on the handle, even though the cams are cockeyed on each one. Red bow top cam tilts to the left, blue bow top cam tilts to the right. I don;t know why the rest being off bothers me more than the goofy cams, but they tune and shoot great. 

But if I had a floating yoke bow, I'm pretty sure I'd quickly get used to the rest being in a "looks wrong" position as long as it wasn't too bad and I was getting a good bareshaft out of it.... The moral of the story is, just move the rest until the bareshaft straightens out, then try to forget about it and go shooting. If you run out of adjustment, you have other problems (torquing the handle usually) that a fixed yoke wouldn't have helped with anyway.

lee.


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## MtnOak (Feb 7, 2016)

Thanks for the replys gang, sounds to me like he needs to get a more tunable bow.


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## lees (Feb 10, 2017)

MtnOyster said:


> Thanks for the replys gang, sounds to me like he needs to get a more tunable bow.


No, it's not the bow; floating yoke bows are perfectly tunable just like any other type. And replacing a perfectly good bow with another perfectly good bow won't help and you'll just be out a ton of money. 

The rule of thumb on tuning is, if it doesn't respond to adjustment, it's something the shooter is doing. A hard left or right on the bareshaft that you can't tune out is virtually always the shooter torquing the handle and/or being out of alignment. Being overbowed or hard string contact on the face is another cause. Don't ask me why I know all that . 

So the first thing to do is look at your form and execution and try to eliminate all the possibilities there: being overbowed, face contact with the string, being out of alignment on the back end, a Kung Fu Grip on the handle where you're inducing torque and so on. 

One final thing - some shooters have a natural torque to the handle, but they can repeat it every time. You won't get a completely clean bareshaft that way, but since it's repeatable, it won't affect accuracy. 

But don't throw away the bow without fixing the underlying problem first. The new bow will have the same problem and you'll be out a bunch of money. Do the 0-dollar fixes first .

lee.


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## patches2565 (Jun 21, 2015)

Like the above

My mr5 and mr6 are probably the easiest to tune for me because I didnt care about yokes. I inspected them sure but nothing else. I found that with good timing and a dead level center shot I had to make very small adjustments. When I french tuned them both they made me come back some. 

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