# Finger Compound Setup Help



## thebatman (Nov 28, 2016)

So I've ordered one of these cheap compounds to play around with some finger release compound shooting:

SAS Siege on Amazon

I'm going to drop the poundage a bit with a couple of turns counter-clockwise on the limb bolts.

The questions I have are:

1) If shooting split, should I add some sort of tiller offset, or leave equal?

2) Put the nock say half inch above square?

3) It comes with a cheap plastic NAP centre-rest copy that I will have a go at using initially. If right handed, should I set it so the arrow points slightly to the left of the string?

Thanks,
tbm


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## Astroguy (Oct 11, 2013)

You want at least an 1/8th positive tiller.

Get a bow square and place the bottom of your nock 1/8th high with a your arrow covering the center of your plunger.

Its a compound so the string is not centered! Hang your bow facing down. eyeball the tip of your arrow a shaft outside the string.

These will help your bow do the best for the least money. I would stick to Easton aluminum arrows for the grain weight. this style of bow is not built for light carbon arrows.

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/terry-t-3-rest-rh.html

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/shibuya-dx-plunger.html


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## Astroguy (Oct 11, 2013)

Easton 2016 XX75 arrows and a Black Widow finger tab or legacy glove are also good options for gear. 

The Arrows weight will help the design of compound to stay in one piece. Light carbons are not a good idea for this bow.


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## thebatman (Nov 28, 2016)

Thanks for the info.

I might try the supplied rest first, see how that performs. I was going to use my feather-flectched carbons I have already, so will need to see if this type of rest will rip the fletchings upon release. A magnetic flipper+plunger seems the way to go with finger release though, as you said.

The arrows I have already are 500 spine carbons, 30 inch long feather fletched, with 125gr field points. I believe they weigh around 364 gr, so might reduce the poundage to say 45lbs to give a safer 8gpp to reduce stress on the bow. It looks like quite a slow compound (206fps), so 500 spine carbons should be stiff enough?

So positive tiller is 1/8 inch more on the top limb pocket, compared to the bottom limb pocket?


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## Astroguy (Oct 11, 2013)

http://www.archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf

This will explain tiller tuning in full detail along with about every other fact. 

Generally you want to start with more gap on top. On this type of bow. 

After you put in 5000 shots and have matched arrows that pass a bare shaft test. Then work on tiller tuning.

You really need to be able to get a bare shaft into your group every time at 20 yards before tiller tuning matters. Your finger release needs to be perfect.

So just use basic setup info and work on form with a coach or respected club member.


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## Astroguy (Oct 11, 2013)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/On-Target-F...436151?hash=item41ccf44a77:g:AnsAAOSwn5RZknGH

This book by Larry Wise from 1986 is a perfect guide for setting up this design of bow. Shooting from the Valley of the power curve , the softest feel, is important for this style of bow. Do not pull against the wall on these old designs.


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## thebatman (Nov 28, 2016)

Hi Astroguy,

Thanks for the info. Shooting it for the first time with fingers and the stock plastic rest showed some tuning was required. I wound the two limb bolts out 2 whole turns, so in theory the bow should now be 45lbs.

The arrows had quite a bit of fishtailing going on, with the arrow having a noticeable kick to the left once it had left the bow. They also appeared to jump up once they have left the bow, but they flew fairly straight after. (I had no sight fitted, but looking down the arrow shaft I had to aim a fair bit lower that the target to compensate)

Moving the plastic rest in towards the riser seemed to reduced the kicking to the left quite a bit. Raising the nock point a bit higher helped a bit with the arrows kicking up, but it is still pretty noticeable.

I've not put any positive tiller on the bow yet, just left it equal. Wouldn't have thought this would have any noticeable effect on tuning at the moment?

My thinking at the moment is that the rest is not compensating for the way I finger release with the bow. A plunger + magnetic rest combo might cope better perhaps?


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## Astroguy (Oct 11, 2013)

Work on an anchor point and release for now. Did you find the string was not centered on the wheel? The rest needs to come out enough to be inline when the string rolls of the fingers. 

Work on keeping it on a paper plate for now. Shooting with other finger shooters will help you develop better habits. Worry about tuning after you find out if you can pass a bare shaft test. 

Which is why I said get some shots off and train your fingers to be perfect. After that you will know if your arrows will work.


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## thebatman (Nov 28, 2016)

Wheels and string appear to be centred. As you said, I need to practice/refine my release a bit more before fine-tuning the bow.

I'm wondering if I'm subconsciously torquing the bow grip, though this would send the arrows to the right?

I've taken some pics of the current set-up. On the second one, you can see the rest was adjusted quite a bit in towards the riser (arrow quite a lot to right of string) to compensate for the kicking to the left.


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## Astroguy (Oct 11, 2013)

The arrow is in to far. The tip should be slightly on the other side of the string. 

Place your bow facing down as level as possible and hang an arrow. You want to be a little on the open side of the string.

So the rest will need to be moved/ built up.


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## thebatman (Nov 28, 2016)

I think after a bit of playing around with finger shooting it, I might go down the wrist release route.

I did find out that there is a method to remove the string without a bow-press. I guess there are some neat tricks you can do with older style compounds that you can't do on the newer style ones.

:smile:


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## Astroguy (Oct 11, 2013)

Its an $89 Generic compound. You may have never had a chance to shoot well. And you cant really trust reviews from others who only buy low end. 

Maybe you can return it to Amazon, an get out of it. Not happy with the product?


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## thebatman (Nov 28, 2016)

The plastic rest is wearing quite a bit already, from the horizontal rubbing when the arrow passes when fired.

So I was thinking of getting an AAE Free Flyte rest for use with my current finger shooting on the compound.

My question is, if in the future I wanted to try shooting with a release aid, can the Free Flyte still be used? Or is it a finger only rest?

Thanks.


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