# Arrows hitting left!!!! Please Help!!!!



## bowtech94

I am shooting a bear kodiak magnum 45# at 28" and my arrows are goldtip hunter 35/55 arrows with 125 gr. points and 29". I am getting fairly good groups at 20 yards. However, they are all about 5 inches left of where I am aiming at. The arrows are fine as I bareshaft tuned them. Although when I shoot I have to wear sunglasses due to severe light sensitivity and I can't for the life of me figure it out. Odd thing is is that when I shoot instinctively the arrows go where I look ? Haha so I really need advice on how to correct this and any other tips. Oh also don't know if it matters but my arrows have a right helocal on them. 
Thanks,
Jonathan


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## thorwulfx

In my experience, the second and third most likely reasons for arrows hitting left, after stiff arrows, are 1) bow hand torque or "grab" at release and 2) string "plucking". I've done my share of both of these.

Thought process on why it's happening when you're "aiming" rather than instinctive is tension. Sometimes, when we're trying harder, we end up making mistakes based on too much muscle tension. If you find that you're concentrating on the aiming process a lot, it might allow you to get out of order on other elements of the shot. 

Gripping the bow with a tense wrist or too much side-to-side torque can throw the arrow a few inches to the side, easy. I try to make the "OK" sign with my thumb and forefinger and let the rest of the fingers just relax, but there are a lot of ways to skin that cat. With a bow sling, you can even leave your hand open altogether.

When I'm not anchoring well or releasing cleanly, I can induce all sorts of gyrations on the arrows, leftward jump being one of the principle ones.

My sense is, when you're shooting instinctively, you're not letting your brain get in the way of a good shot. I don't know if this directly quotes anyone, but the more we get out of the way and let the bow just do what it wants to, the better we shoot.

Others may have much wiser things to say on the subject than I, being merely a caveman.

Cheers,

Patrick


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## bowtech94

Makes sense about torquing because my grip is a little to restricted now that I think about it


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## Viper1

Pat -

You are saving me so much typing, thanks!
Good stuff.

Only thing I can add it the shot gun test to confirm aiming off vs the arrow veering off. 

Bowtech -

Set and just look down the arrow, holding it directly under the center of the target. If the arrow hits center line that way, you were aiming off. If the arrow still goes left, then investigate the stuff that Pat mentioned.

Viper1 out.


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## BLACK WOLF

thorwulfx said:


> In my experience, the second and third most likely reasons for arrows hitting left, after stiff arrows, are 1) bow hand torque or "grab" at release and 2) string "plucking". I've done my share of both of these.
> 
> Thought process on why it's happening when you're "aiming" rather than instinctive is tension. Sometimes, when we're trying harder, we end up making mistakes based on too much muscle tension. If you find that you're concentrating on the aiming process a lot, it might allow you to get out of order on other elements of the shot.
> 
> Gripping the bow with a tense wrist or too much side-to-side torque can throw the arrow a few inches to the side, easy. I try to make the "OK" sign with my thumb and forefinger and let the rest of the fingers just relax, but there are a lot of ways to skin that cat. With a bow sling, you can even leave your hand open altogether.
> 
> When I'm not anchoring well or releasing cleanly, I can induce all sorts of gyrations on the arrows, leftward jump being one of the principle ones.
> 
> My sense is, when you're shooting instinctively, you're not letting your brain get in the way of a good shot. I don't know if this directly quotes anyone, but the more we get out of the way and let the bow just do what it wants to, the better we shoot.


:thumbs_up

Ray :shade:


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## bldtrailer

Try raising your brace hight


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## rraming

Stiff and you didn't even have to tell me your draw length ! Google "stu millers dynamic spine calculator" and put in your specs


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## sharpbroadhead

ok - there is no way that 3555 are stiff - certainly not stiff enough to cause fletched shafts to group left. (besides - he said that he bareshafted and they flew straight) 

If you are a right handed shooter - arrows going left is an almost certain sign that you are dropping your bow and not following through the shot. Your peeking so to speak. Remind yourself to keep looking at the spot until AFTER the arrow impacts - and I bet your issue vanishes.


But if you are new to the sport - you may just have to train yourself to put the arrow where you want it.


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## bowtech94

Ttt anyone else. And by the way all the above tips all make sense to me now that I think about it


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## BLACK WOLF

sharpbroadhead said:


> If you are a right handed shooter - arrows going left is an almost certain sign that you are dropping your bow and not following through the shot.


Dropping the bow??? Wouldn't that cause the arrow to drop below the target? How does dropping the bow cause an arrow to go left? Other issues of not following through properly can cause his problems...but dropping the bow arm by itself...just cause the arrow to drop...unless the archer drops down and left.



sharpbroadhead said:


> Your peeking so to speak. Remind yourself to keep looking at the spot until AFTER the arrow impacts - and I bet your issue vanishes.


IMO...that's a more viable cause to his problem of shooting left than dropping the bow arm.

Ray :shade:


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## JINKSTER

i have 3555's that are 30"s long with 145gr points...they fly like bullets out of my 54# recurve but..i need 200gr points for my 44# longbow..your arrow set-up is to stiff..put some weight up front and you'll be good to go..and i'm guessing 200grs would be a good starting point.


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## BigCnyn

I hate online...
RIGHT HAND SHOOTER
But, It seems to me that there could be two ways "peeking "Creates this action. I set up my shot, draw and however you do it, the brains realizes that the shot is going to go, I Drop my front arm at a mili-second before, and Peek over the top. thus low right...
The second is: I will" Flinch " for a better wording, and push the front hand forward hard, instead of creeping, kinda like punching a release. Thus pushing the bow hand left , high or low. Looking again over the top to see if I hit it..

Without watching... ? can not be sure..
Take the target down, move closer and work on just the feeling of the shot, let things happen on there own, get that consistency and then retry targets.. We all want to hit something and that's our worst enemy,, trying to hard.. The beginning of TP...

Really has nothing to do with the original thread...

My sight picture is to the right of the target, my alignment is good, I just know that say on a single NFAA blue,, my sight picture is near the 5:00 position for the point to be floating around with my target set up... the further back, I come into point nearer the target... IF I was to hold DEAD ON, on the NFAA face I would hit the 11:00 ...I t is an eyes dominance split vision ting I have,, I work with it, and accept it.. Shoot well enough...


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## centershot

You might give 'reed' shooting a try - or the modern version a long vertical line (tape works good) You can see pretty quickly if it is your vertical alignment, tuning or form. A good exercise even if all is going well.


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## sharpbroadhead

When one drops the bow arm they always tend to pull it to the left as it comes down (right handed shooters) - the peeking and dropping of the bow are one and the same problem and are remedied by keeping your eye on the target until after the arrow impacts.

Jinkster - please video those 3555's that are 30" long with 145 grain tips "flying like bullets" out of your 54lb recurve - shoot them through paper from 6-8 feet - I would love to see these bullet holes.


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## JINKSTER

sharpbroadhead said:


> Jinkster - please video those 3555's that are 30" long with 145 grain tips "flying like bullets" out of your 54lb recurve - shoot them through paper from 6-8 feet - I would love to see these bullet holes.


well sharp?..3 problems..

1. I'm not a huge fan of paper tuning so i would hafta jury rig something up as i am a huge fan of bareshafting..long as my bareshafts strike true and hit/group with my fletched shafts i figure i'm good to go.

2. It's rainig off and on today and..

3. I'm currently on a bunch of meds trying to save my legs from amputation.

But ya know what?..i'll see what i can do between raindrops..and that's just a maybe but my legs could use the exercise..meanwhile..here's a clip i shot of me shooting 6 of those very arrows from about 15yds..3 fletched...3 bare..

http://Jinkster.vidmeup.com/view?q=4f0cc8a841797.flv

and please dont break my nads about the slight angles on the shafts..my old hurricane bag was gett'in kinda shot out and has a rolled front to it..for some reason it affects the arrows..so does how cleanly i release them. LOL!..either way?..i'm very happy with them on my 54# recurve and like i said...i'll see what i can do.


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## BLACK WOLF

sharpbroadhead said:


> When one drops the bow arm they *always tend *to pull it to the left as it comes down (right handed shooters) -


Always tend???

Those 2 words are fighting themselves but what I think you mean is that it's more common for an archer that drops their bow arm to drop it to the left if they're a right handed shooter.



sharpbroadhead said:


> the peeking and dropping of the bow are one and the same problem


Not necessarily. Peeking can cause an archer to drop their bow arm...BUT...dropping the bow arm isn't always caused by peeking.



sharpbroadhead said:


> and are remedied by keeping your eye on the target until after the arrow impacts.


Yes...that can be a remedy for some people. For others...it's just a matter of spending time at the Blank Bale and developing motor/muscle memory by working on keeping a steady bow arm and maintaining good follow through.

Ray :shade:


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## WindWalker

Rotflmao!


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## voodoofire1

Sharpy, Jinx is right they are too stiff, had and tried the exact same setup as the op, they flew stiff for me too.........they do need 200 up front, but then they shoot like rainbows........


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## bowtech94

ttt


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## sharpbroadhead

Jinx - while I appreciate your taking the time to make that video - it does not show at all how the arrows are flying and as far as them all grouping together - at 10 yards - that is no indication of anything. I shoot a 47lb recurve and .400 spine arrows (5575) with 100 grain tips and I have proven with slow motion videos - paper tuning, and grouping at 20 yards that these arrows are tuned - so unless you have a really poorly designed recurve, have built the strike plate way out, or are perhaps using a dacron string - I dont' see how a 54lb recurve can shoot 3555 .500 spine arrows with 145 grain points.

If you don't have a slow camera capable of slow motion - the only way to show us that they are tuned is to shoot through paper - a tuned arrow will leave a near perfect bullet hole from as close as 6 feet.


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## rsarns

Some things never change... people try to help the OP, and then someone attacks and justifies with "video", of which his is NOT quality high speed video. Not you Jinx...

Now to the original posters questions... WHen you say you BS tuned, since the fletched are to the left (appearing stiff) did the BS group with them? I personally feel that if you did not cut them down to 29", then they might be ok, but cut that short, they are way too stiff. Just my humble opinion, but try soe 200 gr tips and see what happens... good luck with the wonderful journey of shooting a recurve. We have a great sport, and I am headed back over to the other place... tired of the in-fighting instead of people trying to help each other.


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## minnie3

bldtrailer said:


> Try raising your brace hight


 this made great improvement for me last weekend when i had a similar situation with some new very light target arrows on a light target recurve.


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## Sanford

Arrows too stiff.


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## bowtech94

Actually I ruled a second ago that my glasses were getting in the way because i decided to switch back to 3 under like I had always done before and it made the worlds difference in the groups. Thanks for all the help guys.


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## JINKSTER

bowtech94 said:


> Actually I ruled a second ago that my glasses were getting in the way because i decided to switch back to 3 under like I had always done before and it made the worlds difference in the groups. Thanks for all the help guys.


:laugh:


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## rraming

rraming said:


> Stiff and you didn't even have to tell me your draw length ! Google "stu millers dynamic spine calculator" and put in your specs


Please just do the download!


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## sharpbroadhead

bowtech - I made a little challenge video - but for you- at the end - I briefly explained paper tuning - you might want to give paper tuning a try - it will tell you right away if you have a fight issue - just remember - start with your nock locator intentionally high. Hope it helps:


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