# Anchor Point



## Outdoor Gal (Oct 23, 2003)

Are you using a peep? How about a "kisser" button of some kind? I don't like the regular kisser buttons, even the small ones, as the hard plastic edge is hard on my lip, but my shop set my bows up with a firm rubber cushion button (like you'd use as a spacer between the bottom of your arrow nock and the top of your release head) for a kisser button. It's small, smooth and comfortable. If you're not using a peep or a kisser, it could be harder to maintain consistant anchor point/alignment.

Another thing to consider is this... many releases work best when used by wrapping your index finger or thumb around the "trigger" or knob, then pulling backwards with the muscles between your shoulder blades. So, if you're concentrating too hard on your release hand position on your face while you're executing your shot, it may be harder to avoid "torque", or other tension-related effects.

Many of us have struggled with the same frustrations, so don't get too hard on yourself!  Have fun!  Outdoor Gal


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## JAG (May 23, 2006)

Thanks Outdoor Gal.. Am using a peep, no kisser button. Tried one once, it hurt! String doesnt go near my mouth..if all else fails, i may try rearranging some things and trying another anchor point so i could use a kisser.. I thought i was using my shoulder muscles, but i will try to make a mental note and check that next time. Soo many things to remember.. Thanks again..


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## heathshayne (Feb 15, 2004)

Jag can you post a pic. of you shooting?? Nuts and Bolts is really good at explaning how to get a good anchor point, and anything else form related :wink: I am sure he would be more then happy to help you. I don't use a kisser either, do you have the string touch the end of you nose or the corner of your mouth?? You should have a consistant spot that your string comes back to, if you don't then your draw length might be too long or too short.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

*Hello JAG...some thoughts for you*



JAG said:


> Any seasoned shooters out there that can give some advice on how to maintain a consistant anchor point?
> I have been using a Truball tornando wrist, caliper head. It just seems to have too much room for error. Even though i try to put the same knuckle at the same spot on my jaw, seems that if i'm too tense i hold it too close and i shoot to the right.. if i try and relax, talk myself through, i shoot left.. Recently found a better spot to anchor, right up under my ear, string to nose, head straight, shot nice groups. well, the next day, they were all off, couldn't shoot a group if my life depended on it..
> Am very frustrated.. am looking at buying a Truball Little Extreme with a thumb button, thinking if its all in my hand, there wont be anything in front of my hand that can move around.. any ideas?


Hmmmm.
Left sometimes.
Right sometimes.

Yes, anchor is part of the answer.

I would also suspect that cam timing is also possibly part of the answer.

I would also venture a guess that d-loop size is part of the answer.

If you are not using a d-loop, then I suspect that your wrist strap to trigger distance is on the long side. Is the trigger towards the end of your index finger or closer to the bottom of your index finger? Is the index finger stretched out or can you curl your index finger?

I could help you with technique (how to place your feet, shoulder angle in relation to the arrow, release arm angle (higher or lower), etc., but I would need a picture. If you like, you can send me a pm.

Sometimes one little change and make a huge difference.

The anchor point is a side effect or the end result of other changes.
If the feet are set correctly, and the hip angle matches the shoulder angle
and you try a technique that I call the "power triangle", or as close as you can comfortably get to the "power triangle", then all of these things will have an effect on where your facial touchpoint will end up, aka facial anchor.

If you use the "unit aiming" technique, then this will affect the vertical position of the facial anchor touch point. (Bow hand at shoulder level, and always maintain the arrow at 90 degrees to your upper body.)

If you adjust the length of the d-loop, this will affect the angle of your release arm. You want the release arm in line with the arrow, i.e., when standing up straight, the arrow is horizontal and then the release arm should also be horizontal. A longer d-loop will drop the release elbow elevation (low elbow). A shorter d-loop will raise the release elbow elevation (high elbow).

Obviously, the length of the d-loop will also have an effect on the forward or rear placement of the facial anchor point.

The ratio of the bow draw length to d-loop length is also important.

Again, with the upper body vertical (no leaning),
and the bow hand at shoulder height,
the nock of the arrow should be directly under the shooting eye when at full draw.

When the nock is fixed under the shooting eye, adjust the bow draw length to accomodate whatever amount of bow arm elbow bend you prefer.

Then, adjust the d-loop length to adjust the release arm angle.

Realize, that the shoulder angle to bow arm angle, when viewed from a picture taken from the second floor looking down (overhead picture) also has an effect on the shooter draw length fit to the bow.

Ok. Lots of pictures follow.














































































Lots of information all at once to digest.

I have helped hundreds of shooters here on AT. Send me a note anytime via pm or via a thread. Just shoot me a pm so I know to look.

Lug Nut.


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## heathshayne (Feb 15, 2004)

Your the best LugNut:thumb:


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

*Here are the photos I tried to post.*

Picture one. Wrist release
and unit aiming.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

*Here is an overhead picture of the "power triangle" technique.*

Here is an overhead picture of what I call the "power triangle".
Essentially, if your adjust the shoulders to be in a line with the bow arm,
then you get less tired and can hold steadier.

You are rotating the upper body so that the bow shoulder is closer to the arrow. Some folks have trouble getting the two shoulders in line with the bow arm. Well, then get the bow arm as close as you comfortably can to being in line with the two shoulders.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

*Another picture of Zoli and the facial anchor point*

Zoli is an exceptional beginning archer. He is shooting very well,
and he shows very good form. Upper body is upright (no leaning).
The bow hand is at shoulder level.

You will notice that the index knuckle is right under the ear opening.
You also notice that the string does not exactly touch the nose.

Everyone has a different face and nose shape.
Not everyone can have their head upright and have the nose touch the string. Some bows are shorter and other bows are longer. All kinds of string angles.

Therefore, I would not strive to have the nose touch the string.

Same goes for the string crossing the corner of the mouth.
It may or may not happen. Depends on shape of the face and the string angle and the bow ATA.

Keep the bow hand at the shoulder height.

Keep the arrow at 90 degrees to the upper body.

Stand upright and keep the head at a natural height.

For a wrist release, try to keep the index knuckle right under the ear opening.

Adjust the bow draw length so the nock is under the shooting eye.

Adjust the wrist strap to trigger distance so you can curl the finger, like in the picture of Randy Ulmer.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

*Picture of Randy Ulmer and wrist release anchor*

Nock under the shooting eye.

Wrist strap to trigger distance is shorter so you can curl the index finger.

Index finger knuckle is under the ear opening,
which is set by the size of the d-loop.

Bow draw length is adjusted so the nock is under the shooting eye.


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## JAG (May 23, 2006)

Thank you, thank you, thank you. I can definately see the areas i need to work on and do some more adjustments. I have signed up with a local pro for my first official lesson tomorrow. Hopefully i can get all these "kinks" addressed and get on track.. All of you guys/gals are great!


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

*That's great! Let us know how you do.*



JAG said:


> Thank you, thank you, thank you. I can definately see the areas i need to work on and do some more adjustments. I have signed up with a local pro for my first official lesson tomorrow. Hopefully i can get all these "kinks" addressed and get on track.. All of you guys/gals are great!


That's great. Keep in touch,
and let us know how you are shooting.


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## JAG (May 23, 2006)

1st professional lesson last night. Boy, did I learn alot! First off, the reason for the anchor point problem was that my draw length was too short and i was not pulling it correctly. Had to lighten up the pounds a bit. I am a visual/hands-on type. Now i finally understand what back-tension is all about. I wouldn't have believed this, if i hadn't tried it. closing my eyes and mentally focusing , that was something! 
Everything "flowed", i dont know how else to describe it. It was great. Nuts & Bolts - Your pictures were very helpful.. after you posted them, i practiced my form and it helped me dramatically. Thanks for everything!


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