# Lost my Nuts & Bolts YokeTune link



## TMan51

Simple as that.

I need the link that has a recipe for yoke tuning for point of impact, etc.

Might be years old. HD Crash. Thought I printed it up.

My new (to me ), Vector wants to shoot left with the shaft inside center. And I keep cranking with minimal success.


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## nuts&bolts

TMan51 said:


> Simple as that.
> 
> I need the link that has a recipe for yoke tuning for point of impact, etc.
> 
> Might be years old. HD Crash. Thought I printed it up.
> 
> My new (to me ), Vector wants to shoot left with the shaft inside center. And I keep cranking with minimal success.


I like to start with the yokes set for TOP CAM LEAN = ZERO,
when the bow is at full draw,
in a draw board.

This is just a starting point,
before we fire the FIRST arrow.


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## nuts&bolts

Once your bow is at full draw,
in your draw board....

then,
you can hold an arrow TIGHT to the side of the top cam.

We are looking for the EDGE of the arrow
and the EDGE of the bowstring
to be perfectly parallel.

THIS is just a starting point
BEFORE we fire the first arrow,
during tuning.








So,
goto the press,
and tweak your yoke legs
until you get to this STARTING POINT
for tuning.


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## nuts&bolts

I also like to use my TWO ARROW TRICK,
so set the sideways position for the arrow rest.

AGAIN,
just a SOLID starting point,
that requires NO tape measure.














Duct tape
Scotch Tape
Bungee Cord.

Use whatever you have
to LOCK down the SECOND arrow TIGHT to your riser,
for a DEAD STRAIGHT ahead reference.

Then,
MOVE your arrow rest SIDEWAYS
until both arrows are parallel,
just like RAILROAD tracks.


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## nuts&bolts

NEXT,
we gotta set the arrow rest HEIGHT.

No lasers.
Just raise or lower the arrow rest
until the CENTER of your arrow shaft
is ROUGHLY at the same height
as the CENTER of the arrow rest mounting bolt.

THIS IS A STARTING POINT,
before we fire the FIRST arrow
during bow tuning.

We will fine tune LATER.


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## nuts&bolts

NEXT,
we gotta decide on WHERE you want to SNUG up the d-loop.

I LIKE to set the d-loop with the drop away arrow rest arm
in the FULL UP position,
so that the d-loop has the NOCK at the SAME height
as the rest of the arrow shaft.

SOME folks
like to set the nock a SKOSH HIGH,
so that the TAIL END of the arrow is HIGHER
and
so that the POINT end of the arrow is LOWER.


Now,
you folks DO REALIZE
that moving the d-loop UP OR DOWN...

is just an IN-EXACT way of changing CAM SYNC,
right?

MOVE the d-loop HIGHER and HIGHER up the bowstring,
and ALL you are really doing
is increasing the gap on the TOP CAM draw stop.

MOVE the d-loop LOWER and LOWER on the bowstring,
and ALL you are really doing
is DECREASING the gap on the TOP CAM draw stop,
when ONE of the two cams FIRST touches the cable, at full draw.

YOU get MUCH MUCH more control,
working the control cable with HALF TWIST adjustments...

than,
trying to move the d-loop UP OR DOWN your bowstring.

BOTH ways work for adjusting cam sync.

The control cable,
is MUCH more exact....

for tweaking cam sync.


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## nuts&bolts

Sooo,
now we have the TOP CAM lean set to ZERO,
while at full draw in the draw board.

Soooo,
now we have the arrow rest SIDEWAYS position,
set so that the TWO ARROW TRICK,
has BOTH arrows pointed DEAD STRAIGHT AHEAD.

Soooo,
now we have the arrow rest VERTICAL position,
set so that the arrow is ROUGHLY at the same height as the arrow rest mounting bolt.

Sooo,
now we have the d-loop SET, snugged up,
and the arrow is DEAD horizontal,
when the bow riser is vertical...

or

you have the d-loop set so that the NOCK is HIGHER
and the POINT is LOWER.

Whatever you prefer,
is AOK...

cuz,
WHERE-EVER you set the d-loop,
LEAVE IT THERE FOREVER....
NEVER touch it again...

and make all CAM SYNC changes
with the control cable....

with half twist adjustments.

*IF you work the control cable
AND
you move the d-loop up or down*,
then,
you end up *CHASING YOUR OWN TAIL*....
when CREEP TUNING
to find your sweet spot for CAM SYNC.

*I don't recommend using BOTH methods.

PICK ONE.*

If you want to MOVE the d-loop UP and DOWN your bowstring,
then...

LEAVE the control cable alone FOREVER.

*If you twist or untwist the control cable during CREEP TUNING,
to adjust cam sync...

then,
LEAVE the d-loop alone FOREVER.*


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## nuts&bolts

Sooo,
now we are ready to fire the FIRST ARROW
during bow tuning.

I suggest
at this point,
Start with my KITCHEN SINK tuning.

WHY?

So,
we can check your draw length,
and MICRO-TUNE your draw length
to PLUS or MINUS 1/4-inch.


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## nuts&bolts

GOTTA find out if your draw length
is dialed into the SWEET SPOT,
within 1/4-inch...

BEFORE we play with yoke cables.


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## nuts&bolts

Portable Target.

Pin a string with a weight on the end.

Duct tape only 5 FEET,
just 60-INCHES away.

Fire a fletched arrow.

DO NOT TOUCH THE ARROW REST.

Only move the sight pins windage,
until you can split a SINGLE STRAND of B-50 dacron bowstring.

Now,
I know that you can HIT what you are looking at,
just 5 FEET away.

SIGHT PINS windage.

OnLY move the sight pins,
when shooting a FLETCHED arrow at 5 feet.


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## nuts&bolts

Now,
we do it again...

but this time,
with a baresahft.








Use a potato peeler
and cut off the vanes.

If the base of the vane remains behind,
that's AOK.

IF you are RIGHT handed,
and your BARESHAFTS miss to the RIGHT...

DO NOT TOUCH THE YOKE CABLES.

ONLY work the DL, say 1/2-inch SHORTER.

Do NOT bend your bow arm MORE than before.

SLIDE your hips SIDEWAYS away from the target.
SLIDE your LEFT ARMPIT sideways CLOSER to the target.

Go from THIS shooting position...



to THIS shooting position.




YankeeRebel has to drop nearly 2-FULL INCHES shorter on his draw length,
to get to the STANDING up straight position.

When you STAND up STRAIGHT,
and do NOT bend your bow arm more...

this will clean up your release forearm alignment (MORE inline behind the arrow, when at full draw)
and
your BARESHAFT and FLETCHED will do THIS....


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## nuts&bolts

BOTTOM LINE,
NO YOKE tuning at 5 FEET...

during Kitchen Sink Tuning.


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## nuts&bolts

Now,
go and shoot 20 yards,
go and shoot 30 yards,
go and shoot 40 yards....

and see how your FLETCHED arrow groups
impact the bullseye.

Select the MAX distance that is comfy for you to shoot.

Let's say 40 yard is AOK for you to shoot
and you get consistent arrow groups.

So,
you shoot a group of FLETCHED arrows
at 40 yards.

BUT,
the arrow group is say a SKOSH off to the RIGHT.

*So,
move the arrow rest a TINY BIT LEFT
until your 40 yard arrow groups are SOLIDLY centered around the 40 yard bullseye.*


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## nuts&bolts

So,
the LONG range arrow groups
are CENTERED on the bullseye.

So,
at 5 FEET,
a fletched arrow SPLITS the single strand of bowstring material.

So,
at 5 FEET,
a BARESHAFT touches or SPLITS the single strand of bowstring material.


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## nuts&bolts

WHEN do we TWEAK the yoke cables?

Not Yet.


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## nuts&bolts

So,
now we CREEP TUNE
and find the sweet spot for cam sync.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1844443&highlight=tuning

See Post #15...for Creep Tuning Instructions.


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## nuts&bolts

AFTER you finish ALL of Kitchen Sink Tuning,
as described here...

AFTER you finish Creep Tuning...

then,
shoot some long range groups,
say 40 yards,
say 60 yards...

and then,
EXPERIMENT with a yoke cable leg adjustment,
just a half twist

and then,
find the sweet spot
which makes your groups as NARROW as possible.

Use Yoke Tuning
for FINE TUNING your LONG RANGE arrow groups.


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## fatboy111

Good info!


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## tripleb2431

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## Leon Garfield

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## Roo223

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## jesse300

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## 308ruger

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## guy64

Good read for later


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## BoHunter0210

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## Scott.Barrett

Great info!


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## spotshot

Just got a new pce with spirals when you talk about adjusting my draw length,how would you suggest I do this I know they are dl specific but can be tweeted a little. Using the string or cables?


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## fireman85

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## IDABOW

ttt


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## Queso

T g


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## Covurt

Good stuff! I'll be doing this when my new strings arive!


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## bigmo101

Tagged


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## bigmo101

So no more bareshaft shooting at 20 ydsor beyond?


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## Papow

tag


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## kilerhamilton

finished kitchen sink. arrow group is about an inch inch and a half over to the left at 40-60 yds. The rest was bumped barely over to 3/4ths hoyt kateraXL. Where should I get my last adjustment? yoke rest or sight? 3ed axis is on the money. and bubble is dead level shooting. 
Thanks


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## tripleb2431

kilerhamilton said:


> finished kitchen sink. arrow group is about an inch inch and a half over to the left at 40-60 yds. The rest was bumped barely over to 3/4ths hoyt kateraXL. Where should I get my last adjustment? yoke rest or sight? 3ed axis is on the money. and bubble is dead level shooting.
> Thanks


Did bumping the rest over bring the group to the bullseye? Only do sight adjusting at 5 feet from target never move sight past 5 feet. To move your arrow group adjust the rest. Then to move your bare shaft to group with the fletched arrows adjust yokes.


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## kilerhamilton

It's shooting right fletched and bare shaft groups where it's at. A hair inside 3/4ths but groups are still left an inch inch and a half


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## tripleb2431

kilerhamilton said:


> It's shooting right fletched and bare shaft groups where it's at. A hair inside 3/4ths but groups are still left an inch inch and a half


Not under standing what all your saying? So your fletched arrows are still grouping left of bullseye? If Your 100 % for sure your sights are perfect than bump rest to right. How do you know if your sights Are perfect shoot a string at 5 feet. Where are BS hitting in correlation to fletched?


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## kilerhamilton

Sorry I was on my phone last night. Fletched groups and bare shaft groups are stacked on top of one another at 20yds. Fletched group great at 40 and 60 yds but to the left. I think my sights are on because at 5 feet I am splitting string with fletched and bare shaft. 
I bumped it a hair more inside so its inside of 3/4ths and groups are now walk back tuning, and still shooting fletched and bare shaft together at 20yds. Impact on the bare shaft is right there but the tail is high left which I expected.


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## SonnyThomas

I must have missed the point. For years said was to untwist/twist the yoke to remove cam lean with bow at rest. At full draw you would have cam lean, "nature of the beast." So now, one adjusts cam lean at full draw and the cam leans with bow at rest. Sounds like trading 5 pennies for a nickel.

All as it should be, you're dead on close up, 5, 8, or 9 feet, and right or left at 40 yards and farther indicates center shot is off. So what do you want to do, move rest a tiny bit or find a bow press and mess with the yoke? I'll opt for the rest....


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## bwhunter12

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Bowtech Destroyer


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## unclephill

TMan51 said:


> Simple as that.
> 
> I need the link that has a recipe for yoke tuning for point of impact, etc.
> 
> Might be years old. HD Crash. Thought I printed it up.
> 
> My new (to me ), Vector wants to shoot left with the shaft inside center. And I keep cranking with minimal success.


Tag

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## cloquet

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## tirving

Please, everyone stop with the "tag", tagged", etc. If you're in Tapatalk, click on the check mark t the too if the page.... boom! You're subscribed. 
If your on a computer, go to the top of the thread, click the drop-down menu, "Thread Tools" and choose "subscribe to this thread"... Boom! You're subscribed. 

Every time you reply with a "tag", just to subscribe, all of us who have subscribed, get notified, one way or another..... And, an angel dies.... Don't do it. 

Lefty archer in the PNW


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## thwackaddict

tirving said:


> Please, everyone stop with the "tag", tagged", etc. If you're in Tapatalk, click on the check mark t the too if the page.... boom! You're subscribed.
> If your on a computer, go to the top of the thread, click the drop-down menu, "Thread Tools" and choose "subscribe to this thread"... Boom! You're subscribed.
> 
> Every time you reply with a "tag", just to subscribe, all of us who have subscribed, get notified, one way or another..... And, an angel dies.... Don't do it.
> 
> Lefty archer in the PNW


Tagged.....


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