# Restoring recurve bow



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Pete -

You could strip the entire bow down to the bare "wood" and glass and refinish with spar varnish or polyurathane, if you have a lot of free time on your hands, but I wouldn't  .

Here's what I've done (with good results), get some 600 wet and dry sandpaper, most good paiint stores will have it, and wet sand the area of "injury" so there are no shape egdes. Apply a coat of True Oil, you can get this from most gun shops. It basically Linseed oil, with a lot of volitiles in it, so it drys fairly quickly. Resand and reapply the oild every 24 hrs or when you feel like it. After a few applications, it should blend in nicely. Stop when you're satisfied. As for the screw holes. Just pack them with plastic wood, let dry, and 24 hours is a good number, and, reapply or sand smooth as necessary. Touch with a magic marker of similar color, and oil as above.

Sounds like a lot, but it actually takes more time to explain than to do!

Hope this helps.

Viper1 out.


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## sweet old bill (Apr 21, 2003)

Just one other thing and that is several coats of true oil is better than a heavy coat. Other than that viper one gave you some good info. I even use the tru oil to do a total used bow I got. I just cleaned it up and then gave it sever light coats of tru oil. The bow was a old browning, came out just like a new bow. Also give the bow a change to dry between coats, I let the bow dry for 3 days between coats etc...


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## K31Scout (Sep 17, 2003)

Does the Tru-Oil flex enough on the limbs not to crack?


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## sweet old bill (Apr 21, 2003)

It sure does, I have done 3 bows so far and it makes them like new. But please put on very thin coats and make sure they are dry befor putting on another coat...


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

SOB - 

I'll take a small exception to the thin coat theory. On a new piece of wood, be it a gun stoick, riser, etc, the first (few) coats go on fairly heavy. If it runs or drips, doesn't matter, the only purpose of those coats is to fill the pores, and I'm going to sand them down to the wood's surface. After that the coats get progressively lighter, with 600 w/d sanding in between. Final coats are hand (finger) rubbed.

Anyway works for me.

Actaullt the Tru-oil does seem to hold up nicely on the limbs, surprising, as it dries fairly hard, but it works fine.

Viper1 out.


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## ruby081973 (Jun 17, 2016)

the best thing i can suggest is to rest your hand on the bow with your thumb pointing up the string should be just touching your thumb,this will give you a rough estimate to the correct string length445a.jpg

thats how traditional archers check the brace height or fistmele as its sometimes called


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## R8R (May 15, 2016)

Pete731 said:


> Yesterday I was changing the arrow rest on my Bear recurve and the finish (clear coat) came with it. Now the wood is of the riser is showing at this place.
> 
> What can I use to refinish this area on my bow! I also have the same problem where the quiver attach (2 holes in the riser).
> 
> Any tips would be highly appreciated!


Email Bear and ask them exactly what they use. Then sand carefully and apply.


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## Stub (Aug 13, 2013)

True oil is good stuff. I did my longbow with it last year and it's holding up great! I personally found it very easy and forgiving to use. Only thing I didn't like was the dry time. Took a while, but if your patient, I think it's a great finish that is easy to work with.


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## Norm Koger (Sep 23, 2014)

Rub on poly works well too, and is easily applied. I always keep the stuff around because it's handy for just about any wood finish repair. No cracking in my experience.


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

Good information from all, but since this is a thread from 2003 the bow project is probably complete...:wink:


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## Norm Koger (Sep 23, 2014)

Sigh...


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