# barebow tips anyone?



## heckt (Jan 10, 2007)

After 20 years of shooting traditional and shoulder problems of my own I went back to a compound and like you I could hit more with my recurve, but the curve is very fast and you sleep more with no pain. Find a long bow 42"-45" axle-to-axle and round wheels or Hoyts wheel and a 1/2 not a cam. It is fun to hit what you are aiming at, but you will miss waching the arc of that perfict arrow hit its mark at 70 yards that you can only get with a recurve or longbow.


----------



## Bruce K (Jun 1, 2002)

Mick 

A few things to consider 

What anchor point are you using ?
Are you face walking or just using a constant anchor point?
What arrow rest are you suing ?
Do you know the point on Distance of your Bow ?
Does it suit the primary rounds you are setting up for ?
Learn to shoot a gap method 

I have done these things and have progressed well in the last 12 months


----------



## mick uk (Sep 9, 2006)

Heckt. i'm using 42" ATA conquest 3 with a supersoft cam at 27" 50#, thing is i want to shoot the bow completely bare and ive found it feels a little top heavy, that said it's a sweet shooter.

Bruce your comment on point on aim, that's one for this weekend down the range.
I'm using a cavalier freeflight
fixed anchor (2 under) 
I'll also have a go at working on a gap method, with my trad bows i use a split vision style of aiming, with the bow canted and off the shelf it works fine.
With the compound i guess i'll have to be a little more critical with the gap method.

I'll let you know how it goes chaps. Thanks for the input.

mick


----------



## tgross144 (Dec 18, 2006)

I have found the SS cam too spongey at the wall. I like the Max cam. I'm using half of a Quik Tune 1000 and a plunger as a rest. As far as the top weight add something to the back side of the stabilizer.

Tim


----------



## mick uk (Sep 9, 2006)

Thanks for the tips Tim, i used a similar idea for the stab, i used a simms enhancer 2000 but i think i'll try something a little smaller as you have. Don't know how i would get on in comp though as far as NFAS rules in the UK, i think it says no rear stabilisers.
However since i took the sight of the top heavy feel isn't as bad, my aim is to have as little as possible screwed on the bow, as for the SS cam i like the extra holding weight and smooth roll over, but i know what you mean about the spongy feel, it can feel a little vague.
The rest is a good idea i guess you'll get total clearance using that method.
Thing is i want to get the bow set up as near to my trad stuff as i can.( the fewer allen keys the better):biggrin1:

Thanks again 


mick


----------



## NeilM (May 22, 2006)

I assume you would be shooting NFAS 'Bowhunter' class. The only thing it says about stabilisers is: _Stabilisers not exceeding the archer's draw-length are permitted but must be incapable of being used as a sight. _

So you should be fine with a rear facing weight.

Nice to have another internet traveller on the board.


----------



## mick uk (Sep 9, 2006)

Hi Neil and thanks


----------



## mitchell (Mar 5, 2005)

Great tip and pic on the Quicktune + plunger. 

This is not for everybody, but it works pretty well for me. Bear in mind, I am primarily a hunting archer, and my main goal is to shoot well out to 30 yds. I am a bare bow shooter.

My comment is on anchor point. Rick Welch, one of the best recurve 3D guys around touches the feather to his nose. For me, I found that I still could not get the consistency I wanted, and I believe it was due to inconsistent head position.

So I turn my cock feather 90 degrees to the string. I have the fletch far enough back so that when I come to full draw I can lay my nose on the top of the feather at the very end of the feather. by doing that, I can also feel the string along side my nose. By the way, I use a tie on nock set, as the metal ones use to occasionally hit my nose. This seems to give me a very consistent head position, and puts the shaft right under my eye.

I do see the shaft directly under the spot. I hold the bow nearly verticle, and see the string along the edge of the shaft. This gives me good left and right consistency from longer distances, as long as I execute well.

This probably sounds crazy, but it is working well for me. I too came over recently from recurves, after shoulder problems.

I also found the super soft cams harder to shoot than the mini max. I really like the harder wall.


----------



## BOHO (Aug 7, 2004)

mitchell is a very good shot and has alot of experience. he has taught me alot. :cheer2: I don't really notice the string when I shoot. I try to make sure I hold the bow straight up and down as possible and I shoot 2 under and anchor with my pointing finger in the corner of my mouth but then I pull up til it locks in under my cheekbone. Gives me kind of a cup feeling around my jawbone with the part of my hand from the thumb to my pointing finger. Also my thumb is behind my jawbone locked in and feather on the tip of my nose as well. This gives me 3 anchor points for consistency. The I set my bow up so my arrow tip is my guide. I make sure that it's good left and right and I just learn what gap to use at what distance. Takes a little practice but you can be really consistent gapping with a compound. Best of luck to you.


----------



## tgross144 (Dec 18, 2006)

You may want to check if the rules state no weight or not. My rear dampeners only weigh a few ounces but help get the little bit of shock out of the bow.

I have used this set-up for field shooting. It all I really need, and it works well all the way out to 80 yards.

Tim


----------

