# Stabilizer weight setup



## mathews6767

Just curious what your guys weight setup is?

I'm having trouble trying to figure out a good weight. I'm having some trouble holding high... Thought maybe some more weight would help?!


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## SonnyThomas

Stabilizers, balance, and bows - oh my! By George Ryals IV. Griv by another name.

It's starting point. 

The formula for finding the rear rod weight is Length x weight, or length of your long rod multiplied by the weight on its tip. You will then divide that number by the length of your rear rod. For example I have a 33” B-Stinger XL Premiere on my Hoyt Contender, and I have a 12 inch side rod. I have 5 oz on the end of my long rod, so 33” x 5oz = 165”oz. I will divide* 165 by my side rod length (12”) and I arrive at 13.5oz. I just round up to 14oz because the B-Stinger weights come in one ounce increments. You may be thinking, “WOW, 14oz is a lot of weight.” If that weight is too much for you to hold up, you can use longer rods and reduce the weight. If I wanted the same leverage against torque but with lighter weight I can use the same formula. Currently I have 165”ounces. If I change my 33” stabilizer to a 40”, I can reduce the weight by an ounce and still have the same leverage.* If I switch to a 15” side rod I can reduce the weight by 3 oz. A good rule of thumb to remember is “twice the distance, half the weight”

example:
27" Front bar length times weight of 4 ounces = 108
108 / 12" rear bar length = 9 ounces for the rear bar.

You then take the 9 ounces, put it on the rear bar. If you do a true V bar, you split the weights between the two bars. If you do a side bar, you do it on the solo side bar.

You then add or remove weight on the rear bar only. Aim for the X. Remove or add weight until your side to side "misses" are down to a nice, ragged oval that basically kills the X.


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## cbrunson

Just a thought here. If you can hold it above or below the the spot, it's not the weight keeping you out of the middle. The weight is for balancing and adjusting the movement of the pin when you put it where you want it. too much weight will make it hard to get back up once it fals past center though. I've found that finding the middle between a jumpy pin, and slow but too heavy is where I want to be. The rest is fine tuning for feel and balance.


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## Lazarus

mathews6767 said:


> I'm having some trouble holding high... Thought maybe some more weight would help?!


Yours is an impossible question to answer without more information. Second, what I (or anyone else) is using on their bow is irrelevant to what you should be using. 

What length rod or rods are you using? What weight do you have on them? What are the other details of your current setup? 

To address your question directly, If anyone here told you what target setup they are currently using you won't like it. Why? Because it is set up for them, not anyone else. Also, (me personally) I'm not currently using my bars to "shoot good" per se so what I'm shooting would be useless to you. 

The article Sonny posted is a good starter article. Read it, apply it, and go from there.


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## Bnbfishin

SonnyThomas said:


> Stabilizers, balance, and bows - oh my! By George Ryals IV. Griv by another name.
> 
> It's starting point.
> 
> The formula for finding the rear rod weight is Length x weight, or length of your long rod multiplied by the weight on its tip. You will then divide that number by the length of your rear rod. For example I have a 33” B-Stinger XL Premiere on my Hoyt Contender, and I have a 12 inch side rod. I have 5 oz on the end of my long rod, so 33” x 5oz = 165”oz. I will divide* 165 by my side rod length (12”) and I arrive at 13.5oz. I just round up to 14oz because the B-Stinger weights come in one ounce increments. You may be thinking, “WOW, 14oz is a lot of weight.” If that weight is too much for you to hold up, you can use longer rods and reduce the weight. If I wanted the same leverage against torque but with lighter weight I can use the same formula. Currently I have 165”ounces. If I change my 33” stabilizer to a 40”, I can reduce the weight by an ounce and still have the same leverage.* If I switch to a 15” side rod I can reduce the weight by 3 oz. A good rule of thumb to remember is “twice the distance, half the weight”
> 
> example:
> 27" Front bar length times weight of 4 ounces = 108
> 108 / 12" rear bar length = 9 ounces for the rear bar.
> 
> You then take the 9 ounces, put it on the rear bar. If you do a true V bar, you split the weights between the two bars. If you do a side bar, you do it on the solo side bar.
> 
> You then add or remove weight on the rear bar only. Aim for the X. Remove or add weight until your side to side "misses" are down to a nice, ragged oval that basically kills the X.


With this thought is it important whether your side bar sticks straight back or angled downwards? Meaning if you have a 14" side bar that is angled downward and really only sngles back 10" then would the math change to dividing by 10 instead of 14?


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## SonnyThomas

Bnbfishin said:


> With this thought is it important whether your side bar sticks straight back or angled downwards? Meaning if you have a 14" side bar that is angled downward and really only sngles back 10" then would the math change to dividing by 10 instead of 14?


Comfort. You don't the back bar stabbing in the gut or hitting on your arm. I have mine out and down just a bit. The above formula is a starting place. Use it and add or subtract weight for best results...

Start with a bow stab/back bar weight that is easy to handle and if wanting more weigh add a ounce or so at a time and shoot it for a week before adding more. I wanted a good 8 pound setup and reached about 8 1/2 pounds. Worked out and after a while it proved just too heavy. Back down to a nice 7 1/2 pounds. Friend of mine tried to manage the weight of some Pros and got to hurting. He now has his bow lighter than mine and liking very much.


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## unclejane

tagged...

LS


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## SonnyThomas

Here's 3 pics. The top 2 are of my Pearson MarXman...Older stiffer 30" Cartel with 1" quick disconnect, so figure 31". My opinion of the Bernie's V mount and Mini Silencers is it's more cosmetic than functional. It adds weight is the best I can say. The MarXman shoots just as good without it. I don't feel one bit less vibration. The MarXman with one 10" Stinger back bar and 6 oz. of weight gives what I like.
My Pearson MX2 has a Bee Stinger 30" front stab with 10 degree disconnect and two 12 back bars with quick disconnects - figure 31" for the front and 13" for the back bars.


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