# What scope housings/scopes do y'all like?



## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Since I shoot low draw weight with a short draw length, I need to keep my scope closer to the riser to make the 90 meter distances. So I need a smaller housing than someone who shoots a faster arrow. As far as specific brand, I haven't notices any difference between the cheap plastic housings from Impact or the expensive scopes such as Sureloc. IME, the quality of the lens is much more important than what's holding it. I'm currently shooting a C&R from LAS or a Brite Site Vegas Big View. The only scope housing I've ever had problems with was a super cheap Cartel. However, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one if the budget is tight when I need a new scope. 

With my old eyes, I shoot a 10X lens with a 1/4" dot. It's probably the equivalent of you younger guys shooting a 4X.  However, the 1/4" dot almost disappears due to the focus of my clarifier and lens, so I'm testing a 3/8" dot or I may go back to the ring I used to shoot. It's one of those work-in-progress things. 

Allen


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## buckbuster31 (Dec 3, 2009)

Shrewd nomad


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## bowtechlx (Sep 11, 2011)

I like viper and spot hogg.


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## drew_foster (Feb 15, 2014)

Thanks for the replies y'all, but why do you like the Viper, Shrewd, and Spot Hogg scopes? I'm just trying to get an idea of why people like different size and power scopes and the pros and cons of fiber optic up pins and stickers. Advantages and disadvantages of each and stuff like that. 

Thank you for the reply Allen! I'll be sure to check what glass is in them.


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## bigHUN (Feb 5, 2006)

*I am running with 29mm scopes*









0.140" pin, if rains or humid I can remove the lens and keep the game going,









perfect spine match will center the pin,


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## bowtechlx (Sep 11, 2011)

bowtechlx said:


> I like viper and spot hogg.


I like the viper scope cause the pin is very bright for outdoor shooting. Its bright enough that u dont even need a sight light. It is also extremely well built, & affordable. They often come with lenses in a package deal. U can get viper scope packages on ebay for around $130 from time to time.

I like the spot hogg scope cause its tough as nails, the pin is bright, and it accepts a screw in light. Its a great all around scope. The scope alone usually runs between $35-45 and the lens and sunshade retainer will cost roughly $80 more


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## stoz (Aug 23, 2002)

Shrewd awesome


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## drew_foster (Feb 15, 2014)

Thanks y'all! These are really helpful!


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## TCR1 (Dec 22, 2004)

Depending on the game, I shot wither a large housing CR scope (3D) or a small housing CR scope (anything spot related and field animal round). Like aread said, the scope body itself isn't critical. I shot the CR's because they were aluminum construction, I liked the lens retention system, and they accepted a very thin (razor) pin. This allowed me to shoot with or without a lens, and to trade out to a different power lens. Unlike aread, I generally ran my sights near the end of the extension and shot a 4X lens. I shot a two color dot on the lens with the razor pin centered in it. I just felt like this set up gave me the best versatility for different lighting situations and different colored targets.

The large scope housing was good for me because I liked getting the additional feedback of the target surroundings at full draw as I set up and worked into my shot sequence. For the ringed targets, I liked the focus tunnel of the small scopes. I never ran a light on my scoped set ups. Never felt the need to since I had the dot and a fiber pin. The dot was always big enough to see in tournament/shoot situations. I fear that a light would just add glare to the lens. But as I said, never tried it.


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## TCR1 (Dec 22, 2004)

bigHUN said:


> View attachment 1949096


Can you speak to the ring around your scope that looks to act like a blinder of sorts? What benefits does that particular accessory give you?

Also, I would think that since you are shooting a shoot through + shoot through system has to do more with pin/arrow alignment than proper spine. Most cable guarded bows induce lateral pressure on the limbs causing a not perfectly straight string path upon release. That could be heresay I took as valid though based on my own thinkin'.:embara:


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## Garceau (Sep 3, 2010)

Shrewd nomad....most versatile well built scope on the market. No questions about that


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## Mahly (Dec 18, 2002)

In keeping with the intentions of this particular forum, let's discuss the attributes ( small vs large etc ) rather than brand.


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## chammons0007 (Aug 6, 2013)

buckbuster31 said:


> Shrewd nomad


X100 Best scope on the market hands down


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## johnstde (May 24, 2012)

Mahly said:


> In keeping with the intentions of this particular forum, let's discuss the attributes ( small vs large etc ) rather than brand.


I gotta ask,,, what's the big deal with brands?


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## Perentie (Jan 8, 2014)

Nothing, this is the Competition archery section, trying to leave the brand vs brand tripe out of this forum, and focus more on the actual mechanics and reasoning behind methods.


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## Mahly (Dec 18, 2002)

johnstde said:


> I gotta ask,,, what's the big deal with brands?


Lots of good information here:
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2237233

PM sent to avoid hijacking


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## cbrunson (Oct 25, 2010)

I prefer aluminum housings with stainless bolts. I've seen a few plastic ones brake off while shooting. Other than that it's just a circle to hold your glass. I shoot 4X lens indoors and out. I use a .40 up pin outdoors and a 1/8" dot indoors. Pretty common set up that works for most people. The larger scopes are better for 3D because some of those bigger targets fill up the whole scope and make it difficult to find the vitals. I prefer the smaller ones for spots.


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## drew_foster (Feb 15, 2014)

So TCR1, you shoot with a up pin in front of two differently colored dots or one dot that has two colors? I've never seen anybody with a set up like that but it sounds interesting. I just competed in the 4-H State Outdoor competition last weekend and the light was giving me a hard time. I just have an orange dot on my current scope and could hardly see it.


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## drew_foster (Feb 15, 2014)

TCR1 said:


> Depending on the game, I shot wither a large housing CR scope (3D) or a small housing CR scope (anything spot related and field animal round). Like aread said, the scope body itself isn't critical. I shot the CR's because they were aluminum construction, I liked the lens retention system, and they accepted a very thin (razor) pin. This allowed me to shoot with or without a lens, and to trade out to a different power lens. Unlike aread, I generally ran my sights near the end of the extension and shot a 4X lens. I shot a two color dot on the lens with the razor pin centered in it. I just felt like this set up gave me the best versatility for different lighting situations and different colored targets.
> 
> The large scope housing was good for me because I liked getting the additional feedback of the target surroundings at full draw as I set up and worked into my shot sequence. For the ringed targets, I liked the focus tunnel of the small scopes. I never ran a light on my scoped set ups. Never felt the need to since I had the dot and a fiber pin. The dot was always big enough to see in tournament/shoot situations. I fear that a light would just add glare to the lens. But as I said, never tried it.


Could you post a pic of your sight? I would like to see what it looks like with the combination of a pin and dots.


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## wolf44 (Mar 31, 2009)

for targets inside and out I shoot a small true spot housing. Inside I run a 6x lens with a big dot, that just about covers up the white/yellow. Outside field I run a left handed small truespot backwards so I can screw in a lp light and run a drilled lens. run it with a .029 blue fiber. 

for fita I run a 4x lens with a dot that just about fills the 10 at 50m on a 80cm face


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## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

Specialty Pro series- the 1 3/8" housing, in short I can't break it. I have a box of Truespot housings including a lexan or two(hit me up Dan if you want some spares). Non vented housing so glare is non existent shooting indoors, outdoors it gets rigged with a sunshade if I'm having glare issues.

Mahly- there is much more to picking a scope than large housing or small housing and in that brand matters- no two companies put out the same product and to the same level. I run different housings than glass... Manu and quality are what sets them apart. Saying no brand discussion doesn't help anyone when knowledgable people put their bit in....


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## Mahly (Dec 18, 2002)

Listing the attributes that you find valuable (and who has such attributes) is fine.
I'm referring more to the comments of " brand X is the best".
Those type of comments do not help.


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## kilerhamilton (Jul 19, 2010)

I'm really happy with my HHA with the reostat. ,19. If I need light I have it and if not I can cover the fiber. I got my buddy to cut a lens for it. 4x.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

I was shooting a 1-3/8" with .55 diopter and a 1/8" #1 clarifier but I wanted to move towards a smaller housing using less extension and a smaller non-clarifier aperture. I got a 29mm (well 1.125, same deal) but I haven't had a chance to give it a really good go yet. That ring which BigHUN is running is very interesting in terms of dealing with changes in lighting, right now I swap apertures if it becomes a major issue.

-Grant


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Still, you get down to it, it's personal preference. I got a lot of preferences  

I have lenses of 1 3/4" down to 1 1/2". Two housings are in excess of 2" across.

Quality of lens is darned nice, but not totally necessary. I've used plastic and no real issues. Quality glass! Nice! I have all 4X lenses and I don't require a clarifier whatsoever. My glass 4X are exceptional. However, I have my sight bar set to give best clarity... I also have quality glass 6X lens that do not require a clarifier for indoors, 20 yards. Outside they need clarifiers. 

Weight. BS on weight. I have steel, aluminum and all carbon housings and I can't tell the difference, period. The carbon housing is so light you barely feel it when dropped in your hand.

Large lens, no problem. I use stick on circles and dots when I chose to. The housings are completely out of sight looking through the peep. The circles center in the peep, which helps center the pins or dots.

Dots aren't for 3D in my book. Size of dot is your choice. I used the smallest, which ain't all that small compared to pins. The largest dot I've used covered all but the outer ring on the NFAA 5 spot. All rings on a bull's eye target face have the same center, so chose a dot to stay within the bull's eye or any ring on the target face. I think I used a dot of over 1/4" in a State Championship and took 3rd in Championship flight.

Pins. For the most part I've used .029" very successfully in all archery venues, 3D, Indoor, Outdoor and Field. .029" is big enough that it floats nicely within a NFAA 20 yard bull's eye. At present I have a .019" pin for 3D. I haven't used .010", but heard a optional light source is nice to have.

Pin color; Green, orange or red works for me, but what works for you is best. I hate blue....


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## bigHUN (Feb 5, 2006)

that ring I have on my scope is.... a molded nylon/plastic form for some sort of knitting goblins or like that.....
I am stick it to the front of the scope (front looking through the peep) so I can center the scope.....I have paint them several different color, some plain plastic white or black or red......all depend what conditions I will have with my background -------at my tournaments
*Have you noticed that the light intensity is changing along the day?* *Also not just the amount of light but color and angle....how the sun is moving around?*
Also, on 20 meters you may see the front top edges of your scope and on 70 meters the rear bottom? How do you know where you are centering the scope to front or rear edge? (because the scope have a "depth" of some 25 plus mm = 1" ????
In the morning less light so through the same peep aperture (given a consistent distance to your eye iris) you see a wider flied of view, at noon more light and the pupil is shrinking so less "boundary" room inside the aperture, late afternoon again less amount of light {{also the light color is changing}} and just before the sunset I can confirm within some 20 minutes time frame the shade is going around and you have to move the horizontal 2-3 clicks?
So, for this reason I mount those ring in front of my scope, so I don't "center" to the imaginary scope edges but to a physical object-circle (what doesn't have a "depth") so regardless of the time in the sunny or overcast day I have a consistent circle-edge relative to the dot/pin.
.....we know that any "error" of 0.004" or 0.1 mm at my peep can make "error" of 8" = 20 cm out there @ 70.............simple mathematics (I don't have calculator with me right now so I just made up this number, but I am sure pretty close)
:wink:


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## DssBB (Feb 21, 2010)

x3 with the Shrewd scope and lens. Excellent construction and crystal clear glass. I switched over from a .01" fiber/pin last year to a 3/32" orange dot for 3D and love it.


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## Strodav (Apr 25, 2012)

cbrunson said:


> I prefer aluminum housings with stainless bolts. I've seen a few plastic ones brake off while shooting. Other than that it's just a circle to hold your glass. I shoot 4X lens indoors and out. I use a .40 up pin outdoors and a 1/8" dot indoors. Pretty common set up that works for most people. The larger scopes are better for 3D because some of those bigger targets fill up the whole scope and make it difficult to find the vitals. I prefer the smaller ones for spots.


Agree with this, prefer aluminum, larger for 3d, smaller for spots and field.


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## hdracer (Aug 8, 2007)

I have multiple Viper scopes that I run on a SureLoc mount. While I have one larger model, I have been running the smaller ones exclusively for a while now. I can use a smaller peep. One scope has the stock pin (with 4X lens) while the other has a ring (pin removed) with a 6X lens. I find that my mind forces the pin down to have a clear view of the target center. Not so with the ring. I also have a Sword scope (about 4 yrs old) but I don't use it much as the vertical adjustment is not very positive, means that the clicks are not exact from turn to turn. I still use it it occasionally....

The main reason I chose a Viper was price and reviews online. I was looking for a scope to mount to a "donated" mount and didn't want to spend a fortune. All of them have held up well despite getting knocked around in FITA and Field shoots. The pins are bright and I have not had any issues with them. The SureLoc is almost indestructible.


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## TCR1 (Dec 22, 2004)

drew_foster said:


> Could you post a pic of your sight? I would like to see what it looks like with the combination of a pin and dots.


Sorry, I was away. These are the dots I was shooting on the scope lens.
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/gunstar-bi-spectral-dots.html

I shot the orange/black. The razorfire pin was in front of it. I did shoot the scope quite a bit without the fiber and it was a good set up too. I am not shooting a scope right now (back to a BHFS set up), but my wife's bow is set up that way, so I'll try to get you a picture. It is set exactly how I set mine up.

ETA: Thanks to bigHUN for that explanation. Good thinking!


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## tonygoz (May 1, 2013)

Tagged for reference.


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## dua lam pa (May 29, 2014)

its not the size of the dot in your scope that makes a 60x shooter


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

cbrunson said:


> I prefer aluminum housings with stainless bolts. I've seen a few plastic ones brake off while shooting. Other than that it's just a circle to hold your glass. I shoot 4X lens indoors and out. I use a .40 up pin outdoors and a 1/8" dot indoors. Pretty common set up that works for most people. The larger scopes are better for 3D because some of those bigger targets fill up the whole scope and make it difficult to find the vitals. I prefer the smaller ones for spots.


The breakage point... Yes, plastic can fail, but more to improper installation. For what I've seen, vibration is usually the culprit. More often than not, it's the scope rod that fails. Bigger is better, 10/32 scope rod, I believe. My Sure Locs are old, 10 years and more, and to this day still have the original scope rods. Okay, the stress point is right at the end of the armored tube. Thus, the scope rod should not be exposed. Use washers if necessary to fill up the space between the scope housing and tube....


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

dua lam pa said:


> its not the size of the dot in your scope that makes a 60x shooter


Nobody said it did, but the size of the dot can aid those with vision issues or having other aiming issues.


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## caspian (Jan 13, 2009)

Beiter 29mm with red housing, drilled 4x lens and a black pit kit.


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