# Hot melt glue for carbon arrow inserts???



## BlueFeather (Sep 27, 2004)

I know there are differences in opinion on this one. I just want to make sure I'm not crazy wanting to install my inserts in carbon arrows with hot melt glue. I understand that if heat is kept to a minimum that it can be done safely and without damaging the carbon. Can anyone back me up on this? Any studies to determine at what temp the carbon will be damaged...any engineers out there?


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## EXTREME 1 (Jan 24, 2004)

I switched to useing hot melt glue this last year and have had no problems at all, I only heat the glue to melt and put that on the insert then install insert into the carbon shaft. I also experimented with removing them and you need to be very careful when heating and to do it slowly or the shaft will unravel.


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## Meatco1 (Apr 9, 2004)

Hello:

I've used "Hot Melt" on all my carbons since I started shooting carbons. 

The first thing I do, is take a piece of sandpaper, and rough up the barrel of all nibbs to be inserted, then swab a cotton patch with Den. Alcohol, and run them down the inside of the carbon shafts to be used. I hot melt the nibbs in, and never have problems. 

I use low temp hot melt,

Works for me,

Richard


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## BlueFeather (Sep 27, 2004)

Thanks for the insight. I think the key is to keep the temp to a minimum. Light'y sanding the "nibbs" (inserts?) sounds like a good idea too. I'll give it a try.


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## Tuningfreak (Apr 6, 2004)

Besides the prep work on the points, make sure the inside of the shaft is swabbed too. I use opaque arts & crafts hotmelt. Let the glue solidify without quenching. After they've cooled, check each point with a pair of pliers and redo any that turn. The beauty of the arts & crafts glue is that to remove the points, all you have to do is stick the arrow ends in a glass of boiling water and you can pull them out. No need to put any sort of flame on the points or near the shaft. If you take the time to check all points after they've cooled, you won't lose any.


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## BlueFeather (Sep 27, 2004)

I was wondering about the crafts hotmelt glue. I actually installed two with it in desperation and they're still holding good. Good tip with the hot water. Thanks.


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## tjozz (Feb 21, 2004)

*Quenching*

Not trying to start anything here.

I was talking to a rep from vapor arrows. he told me to use hotmelt and to dip it in room temp water after inserting the inserts.

if this is wrong could someone explain. i just figured since it was coming from the horses mouth i should belive it


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## Tuningfreak (Apr 6, 2004)

My experience has been that when they are quench cooled, the glue doesn't seem to bond as well. My guess is that the curing is affected when cooled too fast. I just let them cool for about 10 mins. When you remove them, the water doesn't have to be at a hard boil either. As long as it is still steaming somewhat, it will break the bond.

'Freak


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## Tuningfreak (Apr 6, 2004)

After further thought, I believe that Vapor rep. is worried about the hot inserts or points affecting the carbon shaft and that is why he recommends the water quench. I have been installing them the way Easton says to install points/inserts into Navigator type shafts. That is, when you heat the points and apply glue, if you can't handle the point w/ your bare hand, then they're to hot. I've been doing them this way(bare hands) for 2 years and have probably done 8 doz. arrows without a problem. I don't mean to say this is the only way, but it works well for me.


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## Ont. BowTech (Dec 27, 2004)

Why do you use hot melt and risk damage to your shafts? All I use is is locktite instant glue and have never had an insert pull out. just a question?

Grant


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## smbowhunter (Nov 28, 2003)

*Powerbond*

Have you ever heard about Powerbond made by Bohning. This glue work on anything Carbon,alumminum,inserts etc... That all I used for the past 3 years never had any problem.


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## JF from VA (Dec 5, 2002)

I also use low-temp hot melt on my carbon shafts and have not had any problems. Actually, I started using hot melt some years ago with the first Beman ICS shafts on the recommendation of a Beman rep.


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## mike-uswest (Oct 6, 2002)

I would like to use the low temp hot melt since it is reversible. I use epoxy, and the only way that it is reversible is if you cut the end of the arrow off. Where is the best place to buy that stuff?

Mike


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## Bowhunter 4Life (Dec 19, 2003)

smbowhunter said:


> Have you ever heard about Powerbond made by Bohning. This glue work on anything Carbon,alumminum,inserts etc... That all I used for the past 3 years never had any problem.


I tried that this year and had no luck. I done all the cleaning and preping and let them set for 2 day before i could shoot them. I shot 6 acc and 6 gold tips that i done 2 days prior. 8 out of the 12 when pulling them from my bag target the inserts were missing. Went and got a glue stick and no trouble since. I put enought heat on my insert to melt the stick and roll the insert all around then put it in no heat damage to any of them. Made me a believer form now on.


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## RazorTag (Jun 21, 2004)

I installed the inserts in my Easton Epics with Ferr-L-Tite hot melt glue and have had no problems. I've shot them into McKenzie 3-D targets and the Yellowjacket target and have not had one pull out. I rough the inside of the shaft with a bronze .270 bore brush then clean thoroughly with 91% isopropyl. I heat the insert with a heavy field point inserted for a heat sink, cover with glue, insert in the shaft, twist a couple of times, then water quench. I've also removed them by heating the field point slowly while pulling with a pair of needle nose pliers. As soon as the glue gets soft the insert pops out before the shaft has a chance to get hot. I have seen no damage to the shafts with these methods. R/T


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## BlueFeather (Sep 27, 2004)

Thanks for your opinions. I know there are many different ways to do things and I'm always interesting in finding a better way of doing things.


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## JF from VA (Dec 5, 2002)

I get my hot-melt glue at Wal-Mart or a craft store. You can buy it by the bag and choose from several different temperature ranges.


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## Tuningfreak (Apr 6, 2004)

*Re: Powerbond*

smbowhunter

Yep, been there, done that. I tried it last year on a doz. Goldtips but after slamming shafts shooting field archery, I lost a few points in target butts and and also had a few nock inserts come loose. I found it to be too brittle for my needs. Also, I was told it is reversible with boiling water, but when I needed to remove a point, it took a LOT of heat to break the bond. Low temp hot melt rocks when done correctly!

Tuningfreak


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

I just use the Easton hot melt glue... I heat the tip or insert slightly and the glue until it starts to melt, then dab a little on the tip and insert it into the arrow giving it a twist as I seat it... then wipe the shaft off with a wet rag..

I shoot a lot and almost never lose a tip... In fact I carry a lighter and a piece of the glue stick in my quiver in case I need to replace a point... I think I had to use it once last year...


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## Tuningfreak (Apr 6, 2004)

Hey Javi, 

I thought I was the only one that carried a lighter for points. I actually used it 2 years ago at AC Classic to repair a damaged point in our hotel room.


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