# That arrow taped to the riser tuning thing



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Talking of setting center shot when setting up. I've read of it so many times, taping a arrow to the riser and move the rest so the arrow on it becomes parallel to the taped arrow. Not once has it worked for me. I've eyeballed center shot and got better results. And why the EZ Eye laser collected dust at the shop.

Okay, pneumonia just about ended me. Can't remember exactly, but it's been a few weeks and I'm still weak. I had started setting a bow and about as strong as a day old kitten I thought why not show what I got for results. Center shot was set near perfect to spec, .8125". What I have is a bolt, squared on the end, that I thread through to riser (brother threaded the bolt to give a full 3 inches of threads). I can then measure from the end of the bolt to the riser and get within +/- a hair of factory spec. A nut is used to remove and thread slop so exact measurement can be had - plastic washer to cover side of arrow rest mount. 

So if everything in as planned, the bow showing how the rest arrow is nearly crossing the arrow taped to the riser, the bolt for setting center shot and the best I could shoot through paper at 8 feet.

Irks me that I'm still not up and running on all 8 cylinders. I learn all over again. I've shot just enough, 3 shots here and there - dang weather ain't helping (freezing all the time). Using my Stan Jet Black I can slap a arrow or two from 20 and 30 yards. Just walking to retrieve arrows has me finding a chair quick.....

A bit of field14 on reading the d-loop.... https://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1097929&p=1056535783#post1056535783


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## Stash (Jun 1, 2002)

I also have never had an issue with eyeballing as a starting point, but I rigged up a gadget to get the rest position repeatable if I move it.

Drill a 1/8" hole through a rest mount bolt (had a friend with a lathe do it for me for precision), grind down one end of a 1/8" rod to a point, add a 1/8" drill stop. 

Once I have the rest position I'm happy with, I can set the drill stop so the rod just contacts the arrow. That way I can get back to the starting point if necessary when making horizontal adjustments. I have 4 of the rods, set for 3 different arrow diameters, plus one that is set to the center of the V of the rest for center shot.

It can also be used to check vertical rest adjustment. When switching arrow diameters, I just raise or lower the rest until the pointer is lined up with the center of the arrow.

Thing is, once I had them all set, I've never actually found a need to use the things.


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## Bergloch (Dec 19, 2014)

I remove the sight and stab and use my eyes. It has to look perfectly centered to satisfy me. I must have pretty good eyeballs.


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## lees (Feb 10, 2017)

The arrow against the window thing relies on the machining accuracy of that area of the handle; that’s the only real flaw with it.

It’s sort of like the lining up the works with the longrod thing: you’re using non-precision parts to make a precision measurement. Tho the case is worse with the longrod thing.....

That said, I’ve gotten good results with the arrow/window method. Good enough for govt. work as a starting point. I’ve rarely ended upwith a rest set far off one way or the other, the lone exception was my shootdown (may it R.I.P.) where the shaft was somewhat left of centershot. Just how I naturally torqued the handle on that bow. 

My supra focus is mostly down the center, but it has a better for me grip, so it works out....

lee


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## Mahly (Dec 18, 2002)

Generally, I will simply tilt the bow back and gauge alignment by using the bowstring.
It’s only a starting point for me anyway.
Most often it is VERY close doing it that way.


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## Tipe (May 19, 2018)

One way to do rough start to center is shown from 13min 25sec forward..


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## *SWITCH (Nov 27, 2007)

SonnyThomas - 

" Talking of setting center shot when setting up. I've read of it so many times, taping a arrow to the riser and move the rest so the arrow on it becomes parallel to the taped arrow. Not once has it worked for me."

This is the official tuning method for Bowtechs, at least it is for my Specialist, and I guess most of their bows from that time, plus maybe the new ones? Actually works a treat, don't even bother taping an arrow just measure front and back of shelf distance to nocked arrow.

It won't work as well on bows that have more of a cam lean difference from undrawn to full draw. Any bow with a cam lean reduction system, FLX cable guard etc, the method should work well.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

*SWITCH said:


> SonnyThomas -
> 
> " Talking of setting center shot when setting up. I've read of it so many times, taping a arrow to the riser and move the rest so the arrow on it becomes parallel to the taped arrow. Not once has it worked for me."
> 
> ...


Noting cam lean here. This bow has binary cams and virtually no cam lean whatsoever. No shimming - and I don't believe it in anyway. It does have a offset guided rod and set pretty much center to the riser.

Picture; Arrow near the cams and then arrow nearest center of bow string.


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## *SWITCH (Nov 27, 2007)

Yeh but it has some lean "difference" at full draw compared to undrawn, ie the string doesn't track perfectly straight when released back to the undrawn position. hence you can't set the tune at rest coz the cams/string are a different angle at full draw. With a bendy FLX cable guard or a shoot through cam system like a Prime, the string/cams are perfectly, or extremely close to perfectly straight, so you can set the tune at the un drawn position.


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## wv hoyt man (Feb 17, 2012)

Everyone has their own method to get the same end results.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

*SWITCH said:


> Yeh but it has some lean "difference" at full draw compared to undrawn, ie the string doesn't track perfectly straight when released back to the undrawn position. hence you can't set the tune at rest coz the cams/string are a different angle at full draw. With a bendy FLX cable guard or a shoot through cam system like a Prime, the string/cams are perfectly, or extremely close to perfectly straight, so you can set the tune at the un drawn position.


Still kind of puny, but did get to shoot it some day before yesterday. All seems well though my shooting was as puny as I was. Did manage 4 of 5 in the X ring a couple of times and this using a Tru-Fire Sear. Always thought it made the draw length a bit long, but probably used to my other releases. The Sear has something of a different set or angle compared to my other hand held releases. 

Before taping the arrow on the riser I had this bow in the bow vice. String level and sight bubble checked good. I then added a long level to catch top and bottom limb and all 3 bubbles showed center. Got the hang of attaching the long level to the limbs and put bow in my draw board. At full draw the sight bubble and level bubble matched again. I was told I wasn't going to bend the riser. So I wouldn't think 52 pounds of draw would flex the riser and if it did it would be minimal....

The bow is probably one of the last 2017 MX3s assembled and fitted with the newer 2018 limbs.


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