# Aluminum Climbing Blocks



## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Well I always liked the flexibility of climbing block and the ease of packing them in and out to and from the stand. The problem is I didn't like the idea of using wood it checks up and rots and I was replacing them a lot. They were also a rather small perch and harder to hold onto with your hands. I decided I would try something else. I used the screw in steps but often landowners and public land rules don't allow anything that would pierce the tree. Climbing sticks are nice but you are stuck with the dimensions they come in and the don't do real well when you are working with a crooked tree or a multi trunked monster. So I'm back to the climbing block idea. A 2 x 4 is really only 1.5 x 3.5 and they still rot and can fail unexpectedly. So I designed these little guys. They are made from aluminum rectangular tube 2" 3". I'm experimenting with the tie down straps and also rope. I'm leaning toward rope because it is less expensive and nearly as fast to tie and pack up a lot easier. I would like to hear what you guys think.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Here are the first 2 prototypes I'll post some other designs I've seen that are worth looking at. Having the low profile like this you are a lot less likely to injure your self on the steps if you slip and fall a couple of feet. Stay tuned I'm going to post some other designs too.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

here is another thread that I looked at that had a bunch of nice ideas
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1002209&page=2&highlight=Climbing

here are what the old wooden blocks looked like (curticy of Kerrye) the Aluminum ones stick out a full 1/2 inch further which doesn't sound like much but it makes a huge difference.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

There are these too but not sure if I can make these to work with rope or not. If I try these I think I'll make them out of Aluminum pipe as apposed to the PVC but it is a cool idea even it they might be a little painful if you fell on them. Thanks to the original poster Igofish2 for sharing this design. 
I also found a commercial version of these at
https://www.climbpaws.com/


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## Jovush (Sep 28, 2006)

Looking for the LIKE button, oh forgot, I like your ideas. I've been tossing around an aluminum version of the wood blocks myself. Love how quick they go up.


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## flinginairos (Jan 3, 2006)

Looks good. I need to mess with something like this as a platform for saddle hunting. I haven't found a better solution than screw in steps yet. Every strap on version won't take side pressure which is a big problem when saddle hunting.


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## ruttnwapati (Sep 22, 2008)

Clever idea. Nice work


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## Jovush (Sep 28, 2006)

Make them in a triangular manner so that they can be stacked for storage.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

I made on that looks like the PVC pipe one but a I used square aluminum tubing 2" x 2" x .25" wall thickness. they look a lot sturdier they have a larger foot hold than the ones I drew at the top. I'll post a picture when I get back home.


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## C Svach (Jun 8, 2011)

Looks like u are building the better mousetrap out of the old block idea. Definitely look like something I would be interested in especially the ratchet strapped one for stability. I don't mess with diy stand and such because it is a safety issue to me but these look like a viable concept. Good luck keep posting em with progress.


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## iluvgear1 (May 9, 2011)

I would try putting the narrow side of the block against the tree to give yourself a wider step.

Keep an eye on the holes for fatigue. Just look at the bottom of Lone Wolf steps. 

Be sure to scuff up the surfaces that contact your boot. Have used aluminum Summit Buck Steps before. Slicker than snot and not in the good way.


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## Bnbfishin (Apr 25, 2004)

I have an idea for this. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

OK here is the latest iteration it is 2" x 2" x 1/4" tube. The angle is cut at 48 degrees this gives it a 6" up angle when strapped to the tree. one 1/2" hole drilled in the inside corner so it is ambidextrous. The 1/4" walls are a lot stronger and cost more but you get a whole lot more of them out of the stock using this shape. I've only made one of them, I like it but trying to find the camo straps is turning out to be a bit of a challenge. I will likely end up use rope in most of mine. Initial testing has shown them to be rock solid. 

Sorry for the tiny tree it is a bit of a hike to get to the bigger tree so I used the one out in front of the house.


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## Jovush (Sep 28, 2006)

Nice work. Any idea on the weight of a set?


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## gridman (Aug 26, 2007)

very heavy duty, have you tried them yet?


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

OK got my handy dandy scales out, just the block is *7.5 ounces* and the strap is *12.5 ounces*. So with the standard off the shelf strap it weighs *1 pound 4 ounces *
So for a set of 6 with straps (6 is the number I typically use to hang my stands) that should be *7.5 pounds* 

If weight is a huge factor for ya there are some other options
You can get this same tube with a .18 wall thickness which I would think should be more than enough from a strength standpoint. the thinner walls would likely give you a 30% weight improvement. For an estimate that would make each block roughly *4.7 ounces* and with a 6 foot 3/8" inch rope weighing in at *3.2 ounces* you could get a set of 6 that weighs *3 pounds* (check my math)


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## Jovush (Sep 28, 2006)

Thanks Bender. I have a set of Stepp Ladders and find a dozen of them weigh a bit much and your idea appears to be a breeze to set up. I personally like the rope option instead of buckles. Any ideas using the method of wrapping like the original wooden blocks or using a cleat type rope fastener? I'm a fan of your work.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

OK here is my first attempt at a rope harness. I'm not sure I'm sold on it yet there are some inherent problems with it. I'll explain what I did and then what the issues with it are.
there is a bowline in the end and then a figure eight loop. The figure eight loop goes through the block and the the tag end raps around the tree and through the figure eight loop then back around to be tied off on the bowline. I've tested this at lower heights just to ensure it doesn't instantly fail. It seems quite robust and solid but when I examine it closer it is the equivalent of half a rope. Now yes I know this is how most everyone setup their climbing blocks but I still think it is an area of concern. 








Here is the problems the inside edge of the drilled hole needs to be rounded off to avoid wear on the rope in that area. (haven't found a good way to do that... Open for suggestions). You can clearly see I beveled the outside back rather easily. Also where the tag wraps through the figure eight that is the equivalent of a knot and will cut the strength in half. So although it looks like double thickness it is in fact half thickness. (that bothers me.) You have the same issue on the other side of the tree where it goes through the bowline but that side is also supported by the first half of the loop so that side would be supported by 1.5 % of the total rope strength. ( a little better) So I'm still mulling it over.

The other option I was thinking of is creating two lines both going through the block hole and both tied off on a figure eight loop. This would be the equivalent of 2 lines at half the strength. But a little more work to set on the tree. (safer for sure because it would be redundant) I think I could also drill 3 holes and have the rope go around the tree three times too.

If anyone want to give me a better idea I'm happy to give it a look.


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## waldopepper (Jul 29, 2014)

Just no sharp edges. Make the back edge with angled teeth to bite into the bark so that when you step on them it drives the teeth in. Sharpened bolts would work, not very long like 1/4". Along with the straps.

Old telephone pole steps were hardwood tri-angles about 7" long, 2"w. 2 1/2" for the top step. They were nailed to the pole with long spikes, permanent. Then they came out with removable steps so no one would climb the pole.


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## Alaska at heart (Aug 25, 2009)

I was an IBEP (Bowhunter Ed) instructor for about 20 years and when I started, the student manual had a diagram for making wood strap-on steps similar to your trial designs. I was primarily a ground hunter, but liked the idea of making them so I borrowed one from a fellow instructor as a template and made my own out of treated 4x4. They were a bit heavy, but I liked the extra foot surface.....especially later in season when heavier rubber boots are worn to keep the toes warm. The purchase of a Lok-On aluminum stand completed my first treestand setup. 

I used a few different types of rope and they worked OK, but there was a "give" to rope as you stepped on them that was a bit disconcerting in the dark. Straps are better, but they add more bulk and my Lone Wolf sections are not that much more weight. Overall, it was more work to put up 6-10 strap-on steps than 3 ladder sections, so I have not used them in years. Nonetheless I enjoy your ingenuity and hope you find a workable solution. I found that anything bowhunting related made of aluminum liked to shed paint, so what is your secret to prepping them where the camo coating stays on? Best of luck and I will be watching your progress.....


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

I hear ya, the lone wolf sticks are really nice. I have some of the summit buck steps those are nice too. Not that I really want to go cheap on climbing steps... I don't but I do like the flexibility of being able to put a step exactly where I want it and if I'm being safe there is nothing wrong with saving $75.00 per tree then I'll do that. I've currently got at least 10 tree stands so it starts to add up.

I've used the wooden blocks for years too the flex of the rope never really bothered me all that much, but I can see how it could be disconcerting.


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## BluMeanie (May 5, 2014)

Alaska at heart said:


> I was an IBEP (Bowhunter Ed) instructor for about 20 years and when I started, the student manual had a diagram for making wood strap-on steps similar to your trial designs. I was primarily a ground hunter, but liked the idea of making them so I borrowed one from a fellow instructor as a template and made my own out of treated 4x4. They were a bit heavy, but I liked the extra foot surface.....especially later in season when heavier rubber boots are worn to keep the toes warm. The purchase of a Lok-On aluminum stand completed my first treestand setup.
> 
> I used a few different types of rope and they worked OK, but there was a "give" to rope as you stepped on them that was a bit disconcerting in the dark. Straps are better, but they add more bulk and my Lone Wolf sections are not that much more weight. Overall, it was more work to put up 6-10 strap-on steps than 3 ladder sections, so I have not used them in years. Nonetheless I enjoy your ingenuity and hope you find a workable solution. I found that anything bowhunting related made of aluminum liked to shed paint, so what is your secret to prepping them where the camo coating stays on? Best of luck and I will be watching your progress.....



The only real way to make paint stay on aluminium is to either powdercoat it, or use a zinc dichromate (chromic acid) "wash" as your primer, and bake-on enamel....


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

BluMeanie said:


> The only real way to make paint stay on aluminium is to either powdercoat it, or use a zinc dichromate (chromic acid) "wash" as your primer, and bake-on enamel....


I'm spraying them with a rubber coating and then painting them not sure if it will hold up or not. I have it on my quiver and it seems to be OK.
I don't mind touching up as needed if it does get nocked off..


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## Bnbfishin (Apr 25, 2004)

Use some camo duct tape. I'm going to use some mossy oak vinyl sticker stuff that over used on my treestand.


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## tlfw (Nov 16, 2010)

I like gorilla came tape. However, only if a paint application doesn't work. Tape is temporary and will still have maintenance issues. Nothing major, just not the optimal choice. Cerakote is something I'd look into, but I now that isn't inexpensive.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Bnbfishin said:


> Use some camo duct tape. I'm going to use some mossy oak vinyl sticker stuff that over used on my treestand.


This is what I used to camo my stabilizer


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