# .300 spine arrows , 60# recurve



## gradyk (Mar 3, 2013)

I just got a good deal on a doz. GT traditional 75-95s. 6 are cut to 29 3/8 " and 6 are uncut. If Im reading the chart right I need 200 grains up front to get 29" to work in my 60# recurve. I just couldnt pass it up at 40.00 shipped. I know .300 is stiff and I probably cant make em work in my 45# , but Im hoping theyll work in the 60.


----------



## guyver (Jan 3, 2012)

I shoot full length 7595 gt trad out of my Titan 3 with 45# hex 6 limbs, with 175 tips an 100 grain insert. They fly great and bare shaft well, I am using a plunger and almost shooting at center.


----------



## gradyk (Mar 3, 2013)

Thanks for the reply. Thats good news, maybe I didnt waste money after all. If nothing else I can tune the full length to the 45# and the 6 @29" to my 60#.


----------



## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

gradyk said:


> I just got a good deal on a doz. GT traditional 75-95s. 6 are cut to 29 3/8 " and 6 are uncut. If Im reading the chart right I need 200 grains up front to get 29" to work in my 60# recurve. I just couldnt pass it up at 40.00 shipped. I know .300 is stiff and I probably cant make em work in my 45# , but Im hoping theyll work in the 60.


a .300 spine is in the 85 to 90 pound range on a wood shaft. Not sure how that relates, but I am assuming that spine is spine.

Aloha.. :beer:


----------



## gradyk (Mar 3, 2013)

These are in the 75-95# range but Im trying to reduce the spine with weight and extra length.


rattus58 said:


> a .300 spine is in the 85 to 90 pound range on a wood shaft. Not sure how that relates, but I am assuming that spine is spine.
> 
> Aloha.. :beer:


----------



## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

gradyk said:


> These are in the 75-95# range but Im trying to reduce the spine with weight and extra length.


Is your bow a centershot or cut past center?


----------



## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

I'll bet you can get the full length .300s to work with your 60# bow. Tuning will tell you what point weight you need. Not sure about the shorter .300s, that's a pretty stiff arrow but it doesn't hurt to try!


----------



## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

Easykeeper said:


> I'll bet you can get the full length .300s to work with your 60# bow. Tuning will tell you what point weight you need. Not sure about the shorter .300s, that's a pretty stiff arrow but it doesn't hurt to try!


 Probably so, but then you have performance issues don't you??


----------



## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

rattus58 said:


> Probably so, but then you have performance issues don't you??


Not sure what you mean by performance issues. I'd guess if they tune (either the full length or cut shafts) they will take a pretty heavy head making a relatively heavy arrow, but that's not such a bad thing for hunting. Might not be ideal for long range target shooting or 3D. 

Did I miss your point...?


----------



## gradyk (Mar 3, 2013)

centershot


rattus58 said:


> Is your bow a centershot or cut past center?


----------



## gradyk (Mar 3, 2013)

Easykeeper said:


> I'll bet you can get the full length .300s to work with your 60# bow. Tuning will tell you what point weight you need. Not sure about the shorter .300s, that's a pretty stiff arrow but it doesn't hurt to try!


I guess I better order some heavy points to try. I have 100gr and 150gr. maybe get some 275 and 200.


----------



## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

If you have 100 and 150 grain points, I'd buy a dozen 225 and another dozen 300 for experimentation, that would give you relatively even spacing from 100 up to 300. You could also try calling 3Rivers archery (http://www.3riversarchery.com/) and see if they have test packs of points of different weights.

I like to make big changes when doing initial tuning, saves time over making small changes and sneaking up on it. I would probably start with the full length shafts and 300 grain points. If they fly stiff...you are pretty much out of luck unless you want to go to steel inserts and glue on 300 grain points. Hopefully the full length shafts and 300 grain points will fly weak, then you can work with lighter points or cut your arrows back...or try the shorter arrows.

I have a hunch you will need plenty of weight out front, and might not be able to get enough with the shorter arrows...but who knows until you try. Post up what you find...:thumbs_up


----------



## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

gradyk said:


> centershot


That helps immensely in overspine.... one of the reasons my 50 pound Jaguar and 45 pound Hoyt Dorado are able to actually shoot heavy spine arrows... :grin:


----------



## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

Easykeeper said:


> Not sure what you mean by performance issues. I'd guess if they tune (either the full length or cut shafts) they will take a pretty heavy head making a relatively heavy arrow, but that's not such a bad thing for hunting. Might not be ideal for long range target shooting or 3D.
> 
> Did I miss your point...?


Heavy spine probably requires modification and most likely that involves weight... which includes a reduction in performance over a more appropriate weight-spine choice... No.. :grin:?


----------



## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

rattus58 said:


> Heavy spine probably requires modification and most likely that involves weight... which includes a *reduction in performance over a more appropriate weight-spine choice*... No.. :grin:?


I suppose it depends on how you are defining "performance". The stiff shaft/heavy point arrow is the backbone of the EFOC philosophy which has many proponents who claim improved penetration on large heavy boned animals. I guess that would be one measure of performance and in that case the stiff arrow/heavy point combination would result in _increased_ performance. Personally, I don't have an educated opinion on the merits of EFOC, but respect the opinion of the people running around shooting arrows at big, mean, and dangerous game who favor it. 

For a 3D shooter or someone who prioritizes a flat trajectory, the stiff arrow/heavy point system would obviously represent a _reduction_ in the criteria they use to define "performance".

I'm kind of a middle of the road guy, 10-12 grains per pound of draw weight with a tough broadhead (they tend to be on the heavy side). My arrows fly well and my bow is quiet, that works for me. I guess _appropriate_ weight-spine choice is dependent on many things, not least of which is what game you are playing.

Relative to this thread, the OP got a deal on some shafts and is going to try to make them work. I got the impression that he didn't go into it with .300s in mind, he just got a good deal on a few shafts.


----------



## gradyk (Mar 3, 2013)

No, I normally use .400 spine for the 60# and .500 for the 45# bows. f


Easykeeper said:


> I suppose it depends on how you are defining "performance". The stiff shaft/heavy point arrow is the backbone of the EFOC philosophy which has many proponents who claim improved penetration on large heavy boned animals. I guess that would be one measure of performance and in that case the stiff arrow/heavy point combination would result in _increased_ performance. Personally, I don't have an educated opinion on the merits of EFOC, but respect the opinion of the people running around shooting arrows at big, mean, and dangerous game who favor it.
> 
> For a 3D shooter or someone who prioritizes a flat trajectory, the stiff arrow/heavy point system would obviously represent a _reduction_ in the criteria they use to define "performance".
> 
> ...


----------



## gradyk (Mar 3, 2013)

I was reading something about plungers for tuning arrows. Thats new to me but might be worth trying


----------



## thorwulfx (Sep 26, 2011)

I've used 31" 2317 aluminums with 225 grain tips out of 63# and 65# bows, but frankly, 340s (2315) with 125gr points fly better for me. Perhaps if I went up to 250, the arrows wouldn't be quite as "critical" (on the verge of being too stiff). That would put me up over 700 grains of arrow weight. Fun to experiment with, but perhaps not worth the effort. Carbon arrows might give you a slightly different experience.


----------



## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

Easykeeper said:


> I suppose it depends on how you are defining "performance". The stiff shaft/heavy point arrow is the backbone of the EFOC philosophy which has many proponents who claim improved penetration on large heavy boned animals. I guess that would be one measure of performance and in that case the stiff arrow/heavy point combination would result in _increased_ performance. Personally, I don't have an educated opinion on the merits of EFOC, but respect the opinion of the people running around shooting arrows at big, mean, and dangerous game who favor it.
> 
> For a 3D shooter or someone who prioritizes a flat trajectory, the stiff arrow/heavy point system would obviously represent a _reduction_ in the criteria they use to define "performance".
> 
> ...


I happen to be one of those proponents of heavy arrows and forward cg. I do the same thing he is thinking of doing... I have very stiff arrows for almost all of my bows... (3/8 hickory dowel) that need massive modification to make work decently... but that was the choice I made going into this.... Having a close to center/centershot riser is going to accomodate this effort much more easliy than a shoot around to which I can attest to keepin em in the bucket... :grin:

As to your observations of the 3D guy... I concur. As to the Fred Bear Formulations.. I'm there with you at a *minimum... :grin:*

Aloha... :beer:


----------



## Sterling_Archer (May 8, 2013)

How do I tell if my bow is a centershot or cut past center?

It's a 45# Sage TD


----------

