# Compound to Olympic Recurve - Draw Weight



## rick11743 (Sep 20, 2010)

I'm a compound shooter and thinking to try olympic recurve. I would like to know a good recurve dw to use for my first set of limbs. I shoot 52 to 55 lbs compound, 27" dl. From what I've read so far, it looks like mid 30s, maybe 36 lbs at 28" would be good start. I appreciate any input. Thanks.


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

rick11743 said:


> I'm a compound shooter and thinking to try olympic recurve. I would like to know a good recurve dw to use for my first set of limbs. I shoot 52 to 55 lbs compound, 27" dl. From what I've read so far, it looks like mid 30s, maybe 36 lbs at 28" would be good start. I appreciate any input. Thanks.


I shoot both ways, compound and Oly recurve.

Going from a release
to developing control in the fingers for a CLEAN release...

takes time, training and patience.

So,
I always start my adult students at 20 lb limbs,
and then,
have them work up the limb weights,
as they develop control.

So,
start with used, inexpensive 20 or 25 lb limbs.
Shoot at 5 to 10 yards,
and develop control (all arrows hitting the red ring or better) FITA target face.

Then,
step up to 30 lb limbs, and work on hitting mostly yellow rings at 5 to 10 yards.

Then,
step up to 35 or 36 lb limbs.

Spend 3-4 months at each limb weight,
if you shoot say 3-4 times a week.

100% holding weight, and shooting fingers
is
truly no comparsion to shooting a compound
with 80% letoff and using a release.


----------



## Georgemay (May 27, 2008)

Another way to find out if the limbs are right for you is "7 seconds challenge"

1. Draw the bow to the anchor - hold seven seconds 
2. let down without lowering hands, stay in set-up position to take 2 sec brake
repeat above 7 times.

If you cannot do it properly then limbs are to heavy for you
GM


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

rick -

I set a maximum of 30# _*AT THEIR DRAW LENGTH*_ (that part is often forgotten), for new adult male students. 

Oddly enough, my students who choose start even lower, in the 24 - 26# range, seem to do a lot better a lot faster. 

If your form with a compound is decent, that will shorten the learning curve, but not reduce the starting weight.

Viper1 out.


----------



## Marcus (Jun 19, 2002)

I echo what Viper said. 
I see a lot of people buy too heavy a limb in my store. Often they are recommended badly at clubs "You'll need to shoot 40lb to get to 90m" of they don't understand it "I'll work up to 44lb". The best ones are the ones who start low. 
Limbs, are cheap. No need to start with top end. I recently am doing what you are so bought a HPX and am using Formula Excel limbs at 28# (33# on my fingers). I can draw heavier (have competed with a 90lb longbow) but at 33# I can work on my form better. Far far more important. 

ALso be prepared to buy a new set of arrows soon. Don't buy expensive arrows. I'm using Carbon ones for now. In the first 2 weeks of picking up a recurve I stretched out 1.5". I think I went through 3 sets of arrows. 

Tuning is also important, but you will get false positives while you learn how to finger release. Use the charts to get close, then shoot for a few weeks. Until you are feeling consistent it will be a waste of time to tune the bow. When you do, be prepared that you may own the wrong set of arrows. Buy the right set, don't try to "make these work"


----------



## skunklover (Aug 4, 2011)

Also, when you start, don't cut your arrow shafts to your draw length, leave them longer, so that your draw length change will not cause you to buy new arrows.


----------



## azl (Mar 4, 2012)

Viper1, do you start out your students with stabilizers and a sight or just a bow with a rest and plunger?

Arsenio


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Arsenio -

I start my students out bare bow (instinctive), with a side of face anchor and even the plunger is optional. First, I need them to get a feel for what they are doing, while giving me a change to evaluate their "natural" abilities (and see how they are at problem solving). From there, I'll usually go to a point of aim system, and then start adding a stab, sight, etc as their ability AND budget will allow. 

I find that builds a stronger foundation and helps hold off on sticker shock. 

Viper1 out.


----------



## chasin feathers (Sep 10, 2010)

What if you are going from Olympic recurve to compound? If I have 32 lbs. limbs on my recurve now, what would be a good place to start on a compound?


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

CF - 

OK, let's get rid of the obvious question of why would you want to... :tongue:

Since the holding weight of any current compound won't be anywhere near what you're holding on the recurve, it boils down to physical weight (which may be similar) and where the peak weight hits. Since the compound hits earlier in the draw cycle, the odds are your muscles won't be used to "breaking the hump". Where the hump is and how sharp it is, will be the dominant factors. 

Only real answer would be to try several different models and weights and see which ones are the most comfortable to draw (least amount of straining "over the hump"). 

Also, find out if there are any weight restrictions in the shoots you plan on attending. 

Viper1 out.


----------



## chasin feathers (Sep 10, 2010)

Thanks for the information. I shoot archery in 4-H, and I'm going to Nationals this summer with my recurve, but I can only go to Nationals once with each discipline. I plan on continuing with my recurve, but I want to get a compound to keep shooting in 4-H.


----------



## azl (Mar 4, 2012)

*From Viper1*
_OK, let's get rid of the obvious question of why would you want to... :tongue:_

As the owner of two compound bows purchased last month, I ask that question every day. I'm interested in shooting a recurve because quite frankly, a recurve is more of a challenge. I think of shooting a recurve as doing the best that you can while shooting a compound is the number of mistakes from perfect.

Unfortunately, I stand a better chance of sighting a sasquatch than finding a recurve coach in my area. A list of"coaches" from US Archery contained outdated information or ones who were certified so that they could teach a summer camp class. I wish there was another Viper1 in Oregon.

Before I discovered archery talk, I had been looking for a used recurve kit. In one year of searching Craigslist, I found exactly *one* riser for sale. Compound kits are available every day. So I ended up with a couple of compound kits.

So I'm shooting a compound until I can put together a decent recurve kit.

*chasin feathers*
_What if you are going from Olympic recurve to compound? If I have 32 lbs. limbs on my recurve now, what would be a good place to start on a compound? _

I would start at a good pro shop with knowledgeable employees that will allow you to try a number of bows. It's all about being able to comfortable make that initial pull and the weight of the bow. While it's true that the holding weight is lower on a compound--both mine are around 17 pounds--you're holding the rest of the bow and the end of your extended arm.

When I started out, I had both my bows set at the minimum weight, 37 and 45 pounds. I've got both of them up to 45 pounds and I'm thinking of going up to 47 to 50 pounds. Most used bows I've found start at 50 lbs.

Arsenio


----------



## chasin feathers (Sep 10, 2010)

Do you think 45lbs. would be too much if I found a good deal on a used one?


----------



## skunklover (Aug 4, 2011)

I shoot 34lb limbs, and I can shoot them at 32# on my fingers, and I cannot shoot my brother's 50# compound, however, a 40# compound was no problem for me, and dare I say, easier to draw than my recurve.


----------



## SamuraiWannaBe (Feb 28, 2009)

Great information in this thread! I'm looking to pick up Oly. Recurve soon too so I have been doing plenty of research here and other places too. Viper's comment on progressively increasing equipment was exactly what I was thinking, nice to have it confirmed on here. I'm looking Hoyt Horizon for the riser. One question I did not see answered here yet was limb length. Short, medium or long? I am 6'1" with a compound 29" draw length, 70 pound weight. My guess is med. or long (more likely). I'll probably start out with ZR330 limbs as the excel's only coming in short and med. (just noticed the formula excel come in all lengths and are $10 more than 330's...) and chose a weight around 30-40 pounds based off this threads information. I do have a good amount of traditional experience but have only been shooting compounds since 2007 or 2008. Thanks in advance!


----------



## HikerDave (Jan 1, 2011)

SamuraiWannaBe said:


> Great information in this thread! I'm looking to pick up Oly. Recurve soon too so I have been doing plenty of research here and other places too. Viper's comment on progressively increasing equipment was exactly what I was thinking, nice to have it confirmed on here. I'm looking Hoyt Horizon for the riser. One question I did not see answered here yet was limb length. Short, medium or long? I am 6'1" with a compound 29" draw length, 70 pound weight. My guess is med. or long (more likely). I'll probably start out with ZR330 limbs as the excel's only coming in short and med. (just noticed the formula excel come in all lengths and are $10 more than 330's...) and chose a weight around 30-40 pounds based off this threads information. I do have a good amount of traditional experience but have only been shooting compounds since 2007 or 2008. Thanks in advance!


Go with the long. I'm your height and I really like my 70 inch bow. If you really like shooting your bow, go with lighter limbs at first. Then you can shoot for two or three hours instead of just one hour at a time.


----------



## SamuraiWannaBe (Feb 28, 2009)

Thanks for the advice! Much Appreciated.


----------



## m013690 (Sep 3, 2011)

SamuraiWannaBe said:


> (just noticed the formula excel come in all lengths and are $10 more than 330's...)


Just in case you didn't catch it, the Formula limbs connect to the riser with a Hoyt proprietary system (Formula) rather than the International Limb Fitting sysem (ILF). That means, if you get a Formula riser, you must buy Formula limbs. If you get an ILF riser, you have a much wider selection of limbs from any manufacturer that makes ILF limbs. But the point is, just wanted to make sure you know you can't put those Formula Excel limbs on an ILF riser -- there's more of a difference than just the price -- and that would be a painful lesson to learn the day it came in the mail and you were all hyped to put it together!


----------



## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

FWIW, I have tinkered with a target compound a time or two. I shoot between 43-47# with my Olympic bow. I've found that about 52-54# with a compound is pretty comfortable for me to shoot as long as I want to, even though I can draw much more than that with a compound. So, I'd recommend you try about 45# on the compound for starters.


----------



## SamuraiWannaBe (Feb 28, 2009)

m013690 said:


> Just in case you didn't catch it, the Formula limbs connect to the riser with a Hoyt proprietary system (Formula) rather than the International Limb Fitting sysem (ILF). That means, if you get a Formula riser, you must buy Formula limbs. If you get an ILF riser, you have a much wider selection of limbs from any manufacturer that makes ILF limbs. But the point is, just wanted to make sure you know you can't put those Formula Excel limbs on an ILF riser -- there's more of a difference than just the price -- and that would be a painful lesson to learn the day it came in the mail and you were all hyped to put it together!


Thanks! That's a very good point to remember.


----------



## SamuraiWannaBe (Feb 28, 2009)

limbwalker said:


> FWIW, I have tinkered with a target compound a time or two. I shoot between 43-47# with my Olympic bow. I've found that about 52-54# with a compound is pretty comfortable for me to shoot as long as I want to, even though I can draw much more than that with a compound. So, I'd recommend you try about 45# on the compound for starters.


Sounds good, thank you! On the draw weight note- is there a minimum draw weight required required for competition (like minimum weights for hunting)? I've only found through searching that the 'average' for men is 50# and women 35# Thanks in advance.


----------



## hwjchan (Oct 24, 2011)

SamuraiWannaBe said:


> Great information in this thread! I'm looking to pick up Oly. Recurve soon too so I have been doing plenty of research here and other places too. Viper's comment on progressively increasing equipment was exactly what I was thinking, nice to have it confirmed on here. I'm looking Hoyt Horizon for the riser. One question I did not see answered here yet was limb length. Short, medium or long? I am 6'1" with a compound 29" draw length, 70 pound weight. My guess is med. or long (more likely). I'll probably start out with ZR330 limbs as the excel's only coming in short and med. (just noticed the formula excel come in all lengths and are $10 more than 330's...) and chose a weight around 30-40 pounds based off this threads information. I do have a good amount of traditional experience but have only been shooting compounds since 2007 or 2008. Thanks in advance!


Actually, you might want to think about a longer riser and medium limbs to get a 70" bow. Medium limbs are much more common and easier to trade off or sell when you move to upgrade. They also offer a slight speed boost over long limbs for the same overall bow length.


----------



## barking mad (Oct 17, 2006)

hwjchan said:


> Actually, you might want to think about a longer riser and medium limbs to get a 70" bow. Medium limbs are much more common and easier to trade off or sell when you move to upgrade. They also offer a slight speed boost over long limbs for the same overall bow length.


This would require the purchase of a 27" riser, which is much more of an specialist item than long limbs.

With a 29" draw, long limbs would be smoother through clicker, and overall make more sense. The possible speed advantage of the medium limbs would be negligible, if any.

Just my .02.


----------



## SamuraiWannaBe (Feb 28, 2009)

I think I'd go with a more standard length riser and long limbs due to the fact there aren't as many 27" risers. I'm not super concerned about selling or trading limbs (at this time). thanks for the input chan and mad.


----------



## m013690 (Sep 3, 2011)

Even when you get to that point, I've never had any trouble selling Long limbs. I shoot 25"/Long combo, it works well, it's standard, it's proven. Yes, the 27" risers have been around too, but there aren't as many of them -- probably for a reason. Point is, 25"/Long for a 70" bow is tried and true, and you won't have trouble selling the limbs, even if/when you get to that point.


----------



## Bean Burrito (Apr 20, 2011)

SamuraiWannaBe said:


> I think I'd go with a more standard length riser and long limbs due to the fact there aren't as many 27" risers. I'm not super concerned about selling or trading limbs (at this time). thanks for the input chan and mad.


The 27" risers are around though, and if you're buying new there's no problem in ordering one (asides from wait). Hopefully your expensive riser is a one off purchase. Medium limbs are plentiful, perhaps the most plentiful around, so limbs are a non issue.


----------



## SamuraiWannaBe (Feb 28, 2009)

I'll just have to look into it a bit more. I do appreciate the help


----------

