# Arrow spine ? 500 or 600 spine



## Bbike (May 24, 2016)

I am shooting 2 recurves , a Galaxy Sage Elite 35 lbs and a Samick Sage 40 lbs. limbs. My draw length is 27.5” and am currently shooting 500 spine Gold Tip Warrior full length arrows and 100 grain field points. With my draw length and draw weight should I be shooting 600 spine arrows and will it make that much of a difference.


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## Jim Casto Jr (Aug 20, 2002)

IMO the .500's and .600's are both too stiff with 100 grain tips an no, it won't make much difference if you're just starting out. Shoot and enjoy for a while. You can worry about tuning later.


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## Stash (Jun 1, 2002)

Pretty common specs. You haven't specified what arrow length you want, but you could probably do OK with the full length .500s with a fairly heavy point, like 200 grains, for the 40# limbs. But something like .600s at 29" with 200 would be a better match. For the 35" limbs, go to a 29" .700 with 125.

If you want to stick with one arrow for both, consider the .600s at 30" and maybe try them with 100 grains for the 35# and 200 grains for the 40#.

But, like everything else, just a guideline. Your results may vary since we don't know anything else about your equipment or form.

I have some similar bows, 34# and 38# marked, slightly shorter DL, and shoot 28" .750 spine arrows with 120 grain points with the 34# and 28" .600 spine arrows with 250 grain points with the 38#. But both arrows shoot OK out of either bow.


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## martha j (May 11, 2009)

a 700 will serve you better.imho


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## 6bloodychunks (Oct 26, 2005)

id say a .700 with heavier points for the lighter limbs,

and lighter points for the heavier limbs.


a couple 700's and a field point test kit would set you up nicely.


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## Bowmania (Jan 3, 2003)

Are you under the mistaken impression that your bow will only shoot one set of spines? Your bow can shoot .700, .600 and .500. But with the tip weight you have I'd do what Martha J suggests. OH yea and Jim Casto is correct too.

Bowmania


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## Bbike (May 24, 2016)

Thanks for the info. Seems like from the various recommendations is the only way determine the right arrow is to try various spines, shaft length and point weights and bare shaft tune to see what arrows shoot best? I am shooting my recurves for backyard target shooting not hunting or competition . I am shooting @ targets @ 20yards or less. As I mentioned in my initial post I am using a 31” 500 spine shaft with 100 grain field points .


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## Stash (Jun 1, 2002)

Bbike said:


> ...the only way determine the right arrow is to try various spines, shaft length and point weights and bare shaft tune to see what arrows shoot best?


OMG! You get it! 



This should be posted in huge letters on top of every manufacturer’s selection chart and the first line of the instructions on every selection software program. These guidelines, and experienced people’s advice, will get you pretty close, but ultimately you need to make the final selection yourself.


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## reddogge (Jul 21, 2009)

On a 36# target bow I can shoot either .500 30.5"L with 125 gr points or .600 ultralight at 28"L with 100 gr points. Obviously, the second arrows fly faster and flatter than the first arrows. I use the .500 indoor where I don't need speed and the .600 outdoor where I do. I also am using a plunger which makes it easier.


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## Bbike (May 24, 2016)

I get it ! Now it is time to experiment with several different arrows to see which one works best for my bows . Thanks ! BB


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## IDD65 (Jun 18, 2012)

I have struggled a bit with this too. From my research your draw length and weight are the most significant factors that decide what spine to start with. I have used the following dynamic spine calculator with some success: https://www.3riversarchery.com/dynamic-spine-arrow-calculator-from-3rivers-archery.html
I have also changed my brace height and point weight to adjust. Nock left is weak spine, nock right is stiff spine nock straight is just fine.


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## anthrope (Apr 11, 2017)

I'm no expert but if it were me, I would start with full length 700's for the 35# and 600's for the 40# limbs and tune the arrow length and point weight from there on until the bare shaft tune looks good. Basically, cut down the arrow length in .25" increments until you eliminate the nock-lefts and nock-rights and then tune the point weight for dead-center. 

Things get crazy(at least for me) when you throw an elevated rest and plunger into the mix!


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