# Tuning: Fingers, Tab, Release



## CutTheLoop (Dec 26, 2007)

Are you rolling the string loose? OR dead handing?

The WB is probably not much help either.


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## Shadow Man (Mar 25, 2008)

Not sure about your terminology. Don't know what dead handing is. 

I pull with one finger above, two below. Top finger anchors at corner of the mouth. Palm in. Hand relaxes as arm pulls back into the solid "back wall" of the bow and "arrow's away." 

Front hand stays relaxed as much as possible (wrist sling in use) until after the shot. 

After the shot, back hand pulls straight back as I try to hold pin on target and watch follow-through. 

That's the best explanation I can come up with. 

Thanks,
Shadow Man


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## CutTheLoop (Dec 26, 2007)

Ever tried dropping the bottom finger? Like so...


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## fuelracerpat (May 6, 2008)

*bareshaft tuning........*

Back in the day..........late '80's you paper tuned for a release aid and bareshaft tuned with fingers. I probably haven't seen a half dozen really good finger shooters that could shoot thru paper, the bare shaft should be worked from 2-3 yards out to 15-18 yards trying to get it to coincide with a fletched shaft. The way a finger shooter distorts the string at draw, you would have be reeaalllyy good to get clean paper tears.


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## CutTheLoop (Dec 26, 2007)

fuelracerpat said:


> Back in the day..........late '80's you paper tuned for a release aid and bareshaft tuned with fingers. I probably haven't seen a half dozen really good finger shooters that could shoot thru paper, the bare shaft should be worked from 2-3 yards out to 15-18 yards trying to get it to coincide with a fletched shaft. The way a finger shooter distorts the string at draw, you would have be reeaalllyy good to get clean paper tears.


Properly spined and weighted arrow a big plus too.


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## Shadow Man (Mar 25, 2008)

fuelracerpat said:


> Back in the day..........late '80's you paper tuned for a release aid and bareshaft tuned with fingers. I probably haven't seen a half dozen really good finger shooters that could shoot thru paper, the bare shaft should be worked from 2-3 yards out to 15-18 yards trying to get it to coincide with a fletched shaft. The way a finger shooter distorts the string at draw, you would have be reeaalllyy good to get clean paper tears.



That's a load off my mind. This echoes my experiences with paper tuning using different releases and is going to save me a lot of frustration. I'll continue paper tuning with the release in the future yet shoot with fingers. 

I tried the two-finger release briefly, but didn't like thinking about what my fingers were doing when I was shooting. I prefer to focus on where the arrow is going. Maybe if I practiced it long enough I could pick up on the habit. One should always strive to improve, right?

Thanks guys!

Shadow Man


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## Unclegus (May 27, 2003)

I've never believed in paper shooting with fingers. Bareshafting starting at around fifteen yards and on back to sixty in five yard increments. With the paradox of the string and the flexing of the arrow it's damn hard to get a great hole thru paper, although I did have one set up with a Provantage that would shoot bulletholes that would make a release shooter proud..I used to shoot a hole now and then in our local shop just to piss them off...Guess I had the nodes of the arrow just right for that distance....


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## Shadow Man (Mar 25, 2008)

Unclegus said:


> I've never believed in paper shooting with fingers. Bareshafting starting at around fifteen yards and on back to sixty in five yard increments. With the paradox of the string and the flexing of the arrow it's damn hard to get a great hole thru paper, although I did have one set up with a Provantage that would shoot bulletholes that would make a release shooter proud..I used to shoot a hole now and then in our local shop just to piss them off...Guess I had the nodes of the arrow just right for that distance....



Sweet! Never hurts to ruffle a few feathers now and again to keep folks from gettin' uppity! 

Shadow Man


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## HighCountry46 (Feb 13, 2009)

Big fan of the 2 finger release and bare shaft tunning gets my vote.


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## wirenut583 (Nov 4, 2007)

*Bare shafting?*

When you bare shaft how do you tune if they are not hitting the same spot?


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## Northern B. H. (Feb 10, 2009)

Because of archer's paradox it's almost impossible to paper tune a bow with a release aid and then get the same results shooting with your fingers. Providing you have good form, the archer's paradox does not effect arrow flight when you shoot with a release.
It's also the archer's paradox that makes it very very difficult for a finger shooter to shoot a drop away arrow rest, or for that matter a whisker biscuit or any other rest that was designed to be shot with a release aid.. Try finding a rest that give you some type of adjustable side pressure in combination with a flexible launcher arm. NAP used to make a rest called a Cushion Plunger but they discontinued it several years ago, however there are several good pressure buttons and flipper - type rests still available.


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## Unclegus (May 27, 2003)

Shoot maby three fletched shafts. Then shoot two bare shafts. If bare shafts are low, then nock is too high. If the bareshafts are higher than fletched, then nock is too low.... Always adjust nock FIRST. Get then just where bareshaft is just below fletched shafts.

Then shoot fletched shafts and then bare shafts. If bareshaft is to the right of fletched shafts, it's too weak. To the left of fletched shafts, it's too stiff. You can do somethings with the plunger or center shot, but the best thing to do is either weight change, point weight or arrow length. I prefer to get the bow where I want it as far as weight and then tune the arrows to the bow and not the bow to the arrows. Just my way of doing things. The thing to remember is this is just a rough tune.

Then you shoot groups and tune according to the shape of the group...If you have a group. Oval up and down at distance indicates nock. Oval at distance horizontally means side pressure. 

I start at around 15 yds and go back in fice yard increnents to sometimes sixty. You'll really be surprised the difference you have with what you start with at 15 and what you end up with at say 40....


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## Dave K (Feb 26, 2009)

New member here. I love the NAP Cushion Plunger. I have been searching for another one. In the mean time I am using the NAP Centerest. It is kind of similiar, but the plunger or adjustment pressure is not present, but you can adjust the rest in and out. I may have always done something wrong, I was never able to get good bare arrow, arrow flight. But I do get good arrow flight with my fletched arrows. I am shooting a Saunders tab with one finger over and two under. I drop the lowest finger when at full draw. 




Northern B. H. said:


> Because of archer's paradox it's almost impossible to paper tune a bow with a release aid and then get the same results shooting with your fingers. Providing you have good form, the archer's paradox does not effect arrow flight when you shoot with a release.
> It's also the archer's paradox that makes it very very difficult for a finger shooter to shoot a drop away arrow rest, or for that matter a whisker biscuit or any other rest that was designed to be shot with a release aid.. Try finding a rest that give you some type of adjustable side pressure in combination with a flexible launcher arm. NAP used to make a rest called a Cushion Plunger but they discontinued it several years ago, however there are several good pressure buttons and flipper - type rests still available.


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## CutTheLoop (Dec 26, 2007)

Northern B. H. said:


> Because of archer's paradox it's almost impossible to paper tune a bow with a release aid and then get the same results shooting with your fingers. Providing you have good form, the archer's paradox does not effect arrow flight when you shoot with a release.
> It's also the archer's paradox that makes it very very difficult for a finger shooter to shoot a drop away arrow rest, or for that matter a whisker biscuit or any other rest that was designed to be shot with a release aid.. Try *finding a rest that give you some type of adjustable side pressure in combination with a flexible launcher arm.* NAP used to make a rest called a Cushion Plunger but they discontinued it several years ago, however there are several good pressure buttons and flipper - type rests still available.


I highly recommend the Bo Doodle Pro 500. 

simple......works


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## wirenut583 (Nov 4, 2007)

*?*

Is it the same for a right haned shooter as a lefty or do we switch the weak strong sides?


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## shadowhunter (Oct 12, 2003)

*wirenut583*

Switch em for a lefty, right is stiff left is weak.


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## Hollowpoint (Jul 10, 2003)

I draw and shoot with two fingers split and use a Drop Zone with the arm we made for fingers-I was shooting bullet holes when we were testing the first one a few years back, but since then I just bareshaft tune. IMO bareshaft is still the way to go with fingers. Its also the best way to tell if your arrow spine is perfect or not.


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## wirenut583 (Nov 4, 2007)

Thanks Uncle Gus and Shadow Hunter


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## Darksider (Apr 14, 2006)

I think part of your problem is your rest. You should try a rest with side pressure. I had a Biscuit. Couldn't tune it either. (Why I got it, I don't know. I should have known better!) Changed rest, instant improvement.
Good luck!:thumbs_up
They are very good release rests.


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## provantage (Mar 5, 2007)

A W/B pr drop away may not be the best choice of rest for fingers. Very difficult to get consistant fligth without a plunger and wrap around or even a springy rest.


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## BUS314 (Dec 12, 2002)

*Cavalier*

FreeFlyte is about the best out there nowadays IMO


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## Armageddon (Oct 13, 2007)

I just went through the opposite you are doing. I shot a QAD drop away last year and could not paper tune it consistantly and I shot terrible. This year I put a whisker biscut on and was able to easily paper tune it. I shoot bullet holes everytime and it is more than accurate enough for me. I shoot bare fingers one over one under, every one shoots differently, so take it for what it's worth.


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## Rmart (Nov 28, 2007)

I must be reeaalllyy good then (not really though), because I can shoot bullet holes through paper, at least with 85 grain tips. I get 3/4" tear with 125 grain tips and 1/4" tear with 100 grain tips (this is shooting bare shafts through paper). Once fletched, the shafts with 100 grain tips will just barely tear left. I shot a couple of groups at 20 yards with bare shafts and fletched shafts to confirm and they grouped together.



fuelracerpat said:


> Back in the day..........late '80's you paper tuned for a release aid and bareshaft tuned with fingers. I probably haven't seen a half dozen really good finger shooters that could shoot thru paper, the bare shaft should be worked from 2-3 yards out to 15-18 yards trying to get it to coincide with a fletched shaft. The way a finger shooter distorts the string at draw, you would have be reeaalllyy good to get clean paper tears.


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