# Centershot Tools



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Medichunter said:


> What do ya'll use for setting centershot on your bows. Yes I know paper tune and walk back tune. But, do you use the laser devices or have another method to get it set before you shoot it in? I ask because I'd like to check mine to make sure where it's at. My sights are left of the string a good bit, and the arrow is hitting left of where I am aiming. I could just bump the rest to the right, but I want to know for sure it's off and not me.


Centershot position for the arrow rest,
kinda depends on how far the cables are pulled away from the
centerline of the top and bottom cam.

Soooo,
the more the cables are pulled to the side,
to provide clearance for the arrow,
the more the bow riser twists, 
when the bow is at full draw.

So,
the only thing that matters is the end result
(arrows go hit the bullseye at short, medium and long distances).


Here is a quick and easy method for you to adjust
the front sight (pins)
and
the rear sight (the arrow rest).


Set up a target bag,
and set the bullseye at YOUR shoulder height.

Yes,
this is going to be pretty tall,
so a stack of boxes and a table...
whatever you need,
to get the BULLSEYE at your shoulder height.

When the BULLSEYE is at your shoulder height,
then when you aim,
the arrow will be very close to dead level (horizontal).


Now,
hang a string with a weight on the end,
and split the bullseye right down the center.

Now,
step back 6 feet (YUP, only 72-inches)
and aim at the string.

You want to split the string fibers
with your field point.

Take your time,
and try again and again,
until you can split the string fibers.

Just next to the string is not good enough.

ONLY ADJUST the pins,
to the left or right,
in order to NAIL the string with your field point arrow.

Takes a couple of adjustments,
but you will get there.

Ok.

You just NAILED the string from a distance of 6 feet.


Now,
step back to any convenient longer distance.

Might be 20 feet.
Might be 10 yards.
Might be 11.5 yards.

Whatever longer distance you have available.

Now,
fire a 3 arrow group,
if you are in no danger of destroying arrows.

You want the group to be CENTERED on top of the bullseye.

If the arrow group is NOT CENTERED on the bullseye,
MOVE ONLY THE arrow rest.

Keep tweaking the arrow rest,
until the 3 arrow group is CENTERED on top of the bullseye.

Ok.

Now,
the arrows are centered on TOP of the bullseye.


Not done yet.

Go back to 6 feet,
and shoot at the string.

Most likely need a tiny adjustment to the pins,
and eventually,
you are NAILING the string again that splits the bullseye.


Not done yet.


Go back to any longer distance,
and fire a 3 arrow group.

Tweak ONLY THE arrow rest,
at the longer distance.

Go back to 6 feet,
and ONLY tweak the pins.

Go back to a longer distance
and ONLY tweak the arrow rest.


You see the pattern.

When you can shoot the longer distance,
and NO ADJUSTMENT is needed for the arrow rest

and

when you can shoot the 6 foot distance,
and NO ADJUSTMENT is needed for the pins....

then, you are done.


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## Medichunter (Oct 21, 2006)

Hmmm interesting. Thanks


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## NSSCOTT (Sep 6, 2009)

so nut and bolts will that method work for a limbdriver rest as well,in the video the guy said to set the center shoot before conecting the cable,but i don't see why i could not set the cable and then adjust as need when doing my center shoot.also he said to check for nok level,nok center or nok high what the difference,and how do i check that.my nok is already set i'm just changing the rest on the bow.thanks


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## NSSCOTT (Sep 6, 2009)

hey nuts&bolts another question about setting the centershot should i only be using 1 pin in my sights to shoot with from all the distances[ top pin] or should i use the different pins in my sight for the different yardages.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Two methods;
1) I use a EZE EYE laser on mechined risers and newer bows and get super close results.
2) I align the string to the upper cam or wheel string groove and then move rest to align arrow with string/cam grooves and get pretty good results.
Either is good enough to get going with finer tuning.


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## bus33 (Aug 6, 2006)

NSSCOTT said:


> so nut and bolts will that method work for a limbdriver rest as well,in the video the guy said to set the center shoot before conecting the cable,but i don't see why i could not set the cable and then adjust as need when doing my center shoot.also he said to check for nok level,nok center or nok high what the difference,and how do i check that.my nok is already set i'm just changing the rest on the bow.thanks


Yes it does. I use this method and in fact just got done with it on my new AM, which has a limbdriver on it. The key is to be patient and be very picky. You will hit the string. I have problem with the arrow hitting center but the string would slide sideways so I ended up using a level and a sharpie (white bag target) to draw my vertical line. It was easier to see it split the line that way.


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## Jkirk (Sep 8, 2007)

*Golden Key Archery "TRU Center Gauge" (or DIY).*

I use the Golden Key Archery "TRU Center Gauge". I'm not sure, but Golden Key Archery may no longer be in busness? But the tool is available still if you look around. It's very simple and inexpensive. I've seen the tool on Ebay and at Dicks Sporting Goods for $7-$16 dollars. 

One uses the tool to check for a true center shot. With this tool, you place the gauge on a flat place on the bows riser and adjust the pointer (a sliding rubber marker) so that it rests centered on the string. Then flip/turn the gauge around and place the marker (hopefully) on the the center of a nocked arrow. If the marker doesn't land on the arrow, it is not centered and the rest needs to be adjusted in or out, until the marker/pointer is on the shafts center.

(sorry I don't have the ability to post links or pics ... stupid AT rule).

Here is a youtube video of it being used:
www .youtube.com/watch?v=hTTd3jYEd_Q


Search Ebay for:
GOLDEN-KEY-TRU-CENTER-GAUGE


Here is a homemade one (same idea, by "Buckee"):
www .realtree.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89231


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

I dont like any of the centershot tools, i think eye ballin it to start is as good since you have to tune the bow after by shooting it and then adjusting as needed.

YES you need to use top pin only, hes refering to his modified french tuning method, awesome way to tune.


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## rfmarshall (Apr 17, 2012)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/True-Center...519?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a205b24b7


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## buckshot97 (Jul 19, 2012)

get it close then broadhead tune it from there and you will notice your groups to be so tight you crack arrows.


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