# How do you tell if a riser is BENT?!?!



## vpier (Jul 30, 2004)

Not sure what you are talking about? My Apple pro Extreme is designed for long risers(Hoyts) and presses in the limp pockets. I love my press. Who ever pressed the bow on the riser did not know what he /she was doing. Hoyt states that you cannot press directly on the Tec Riser.Its not Apples or Hoyts fault when a guy cant read the owners manual and uses the wrong press or presses there bow incorrectly.


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## xring_assassin (Jan 1, 2005)

The bulk of the new apple presses that I've come across in canada so far - without being modified - only place the rollers 20" MAX apart - riser on ultratec's I think (without measuring) are a hair over 24". I like the design of them, but if I were to buy one I'd be having a machinist or someone damn good with metal fab a new peice for the part the actually does the pushing down. 
There CAN'T be a hoyt dealer in every town and in this case I bought a USED bow here actually - and something just doesn't seem right with it. If it's history included ONE trip to a dealer that has "whatever" (so sorry i insulted someone with an actual GOOD appple press) for a press - and the shop owner makes the call "ah well it didn't hurt the last bow" and just presses the life out of it anyway without KNOWING "oh these new bows can't be pressed on the riser" - who's at fault? The guy that owned it before me who left it there to get the string replaced or the shop owner (if this is what happened) who did the pressing without knowing there would be something wrong with pressing 2" in on either end of the riser?
That's not the point - my point - apple presses - from what I can see so far - are NOT designed to press long riser bows, yet they're CHEAP so they're rising in popularity.
Back to my question and main point - how do you tell if a riser is SLIGHTLY bent?


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## vpier (Jul 30, 2004)

xring_assassin said:


> The bulk of the new apple presses that I've come across in canada so far - without being modified - only place the rollers 20" MAX apart - riser on ultratec's I think (without measuring) are a hair over 24". I like the design of them, but if I were to buy one I'd be having a machinist or someone damn good with metal fab a new peice for the part the actually does the pushing down.
> There CAN'T be a hoyt dealer in every town and in this case I bought a USED bow here actually - and something just doesn't seem right with it. If it's history included ONE trip to a dealer that has "whatever" (so sorry i insulted someone with an actual GOOD appple press) for a press - and the shop owner makes the call "ah well it didn't hurt the last bow" and just presses the life out of it anyway without KNOWING "oh these new bows can't be pressed on the riser" - who's at fault? The guy that owned it before me who left it there to get the string replaced or the shop owner (if this is what happened) who did the pressing without knowing there would be something wrong with pressing 2" in on either end of the riser?
> That's not the point - my point - apple presses - from what I can see so far - are NOT designed to press long riser bows, yet they're CHEAP so they're rising in popularity.
> Back to my question and main point - how do you tell if a riser is SLIGHTLY bent?


And Im telling you that the Pro Extreme was made for bows like Hoyts. You have models of Apples that shouldnt be used on Hoyts but they do make models that are desined for long riser. One more thing, my Apple press was not cheap.


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## xring_assassin (Jan 1, 2005)

That's a good answer for how I can tell if a riser is slightly bent - you've been a GREAT assistance. Anyone else please?

FYI pro extreme is NOT a common press to find thanks to so many bows being stubby parrallel limb creations now - and even Lancaster sells the pro etreme right around the $300 mark - that's not much. I DON'T CARE ABOUT YOUR DAMN PRESS!!!


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## tmarch (Jun 7, 2002)

And with that attitude I'm sure he cares about your bent riser.


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## xring_assassin (Jan 1, 2005)

SHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESH Did someone *urinate* in everyone's cornflakes this morning? Even the dog on this site is snippy today.  LOL

There's GOTTA be a way to tell - that's ALL I wanna know!!

I'm NOT blaming Hoyt for making crappy bow - THEY DON'T MAKE CRAP!!

I'm NOT blaming anyone for making crappy presses - just saying that presses NOT designed for long riser bows are becoming VERY common place - thus one is able to ASSUME damage to improperly pressed bows must be on the rise.

I'm wanting info on what to look for as indicators a riser is bent. My apologies for using too many "big words".

This also might just be an issue that a limb is twisted or something. Bow shoots good BUT something "bugs my eyes" when it's hanging on the rack by my other hoyt's. THAT'S WHY I say something just "isn't right".

NO more speak of bow presses, my apologies for starting that arguement inadvertently (another big word - so sorry) can someone please let me know what to look for to tell if a bow riser is bent?


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## sqrln8r (Jan 10, 2005)

*How to tell for a bent riser...*

What I was told was to take an arrow and lay it flat against the limb pocket, and than rotate it down towards the other limb pocket. The arrow should run parrallel to the other limb pocket. Now on my Xtec, I believe one of my limb pockets (can't remember if it is top or bottom) is offset from the other one, so when you rotate the arrow from the offset one, it will run parrallel to the other limb pocket, about 1/4" away, and if you rotate the arrow from the non-offset limb pocket, the arrow will "bang" into the other limb pocket.


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## xring_assassin (Jan 1, 2005)

sqrln8r said:


> What I was told was to take an arrow and lay it flat against the limb pocket, and than rotate it down towards the other limb pocket. The arrow should run parrallel to the other limb pocket. Now on my Xtec, I believe one of my limb pockets (can't remember if it is top or bottom) is offset from the other one, so when you rotate the arrow from the offset one, it will run parrallel to the other limb pocket, about 1/4" away, and if you rotate the arrow from the non-offset limb pocket, the arrow will "bang" into the other limb pocket.


Now THAT's info I needed - MUCH appreciated - thanks!
All looks okay so far!
Thanks again!
JB


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## Jim C (Oct 15, 2002)

I have a set of beiter limb gauges that I use for setting up recurves-they fit compounds too and I slap them on the limbs and line the string up through them-the string should also run through the middle of say the face side of the limb bolt hole.

you can put white tape on the limbs and a hash mark in the dead center of each as well


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## xring_assassin (Jan 1, 2005)

*kinda unclear on this one*



Jim C said:


> I have a set of beiter limb gauges that I use for setting up recurves-they fit compounds too and I slap them on the limbs and line the string up through them-the string should also run through the middle of say the face side of the limb bolt hole.
> 
> you can put white tape on the limbs and a hash mark in the dead center of each as well


Would you be so kind as to please e-mail me a couple pictures if I give you my e-mail addy? Or post a couple here?

I'd really appreciate the help on this one. Pretty sure there's nothing wrong with this though - just drilled 29 10's with 23 X's in a row, got tired on last one or something - removed some arm skin too, NOT saying where that one went.

John


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## FS560 (May 22, 2002)

sqrln8r said:


> What I was told was to take an arrow and lay it flat against the limb pocket, and than rotate it down towards the other limb pocket. The arrow should run parrallel to the other limb pocket. Now on my Xtec, I believe one of my limb pockets (can't remember if it is top or bottom) is offset from the other one, so when you rotate the arrow from the offset one, it will run parrallel to the other limb pocket, about 1/4" away, and if you rotate the arrow from the non-offset limb pocket, the arrow will "bang" into the other limb pocket.


Are you saying that the limbs on your bow are parallel to each other but not pointed directly at each other. The planes of the centerlines of the two limbs are parallel but not the same plane. So are the top and bottom cam/wheel/idler units in the same plane or offset? Do the string tracks point directly at each other or does the string run diagonally from one groove to the other?


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## Bobmuley (Jan 14, 2004)

A couple of torpedo levels on the limb pockets will tell you if its bent and you can check it on two axis.


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## xring_assassin (Jan 1, 2005)

Bobmuley said:


> A couple of torpedo levels on the limb pockets will tell you if its bent and you can check it on two axis.


That was TOO obvious - why didn't I think of that? HAHAHA

According to the two-torpedo method - it IS slightly tweaked - it shoots though, but I'm betting that's why the rest seems so far out to hit centershot position. It's a backup bow - it doesn't have to be perfect, my day's already gone for crap if I need to drag it out of the case. 

Any more cool ideas?

And also - in reference to one post above bob's here (FS560) - I THINK there is a slight offset form top to bottom limb pocket with cam1/2 style setups (could be wrong) but it'd make sense if there was, top cam being a 2 track unit, bottom one a three, that if there wasn't a slight offset the string would be running mildly diagonal (half a track out?  ) no matter what you did to it. I haven't checked mine out for that yet, but it'd make sense if there was a slight offset as mentioned.


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