# Is this Easton Tuning guide correct??



## Mrwintr (Jan 15, 2006)

I am having a problem with a single cam bow tearing nock right (I am a right handed shooter using a release) so I downlloaded this tuning guide from Easton after trying many different things; Increased draw weight up to 12 pounds more, added 15grains more tip weight, and checked center shot and repositioned a little to the right and left....Still getting a very noticable nock right tear. I am shooting 6-8 feet from paper. So anyway I looked at what it said in the Easton tuning guide and it sounds like they wrote this backwards...? They say to move the rest out to the left if I have a nock right tear...I would have thought the rest needed to move the rest in to the right...? Is their suggestion correct???

>>From Easton tuning guide; 








This tear indicates a stiff arrow reaction for
right-handed archers using finger release
(RF, CF).
This is an uncommon tear for right-handed
compound archers using a mechanical
release (CR). However, it can occur and generally
_*indicates that the arrow rest position is too far to the right*_
or that there is possible vane contact on the inside of the
launcher rest.
Mechanical Release Aid (CR) To correct:
1. Move the arrow rest to the left. Continue
_*moving the rest to the left *_in small increments
until the right tear is eliminated.
2. Make sure the arrow has adequate clearance past the
cable guard and cables.


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## AllenRead (Jan 12, 2004)

The first rule of bow tuning is that if it doesn't work moving it that way, move it the other way.

A few other things to check:
- powder test to be sure that you don't have any contact.
- be sure that you are using a straight arrow and use only one for paper testing. It is not unusual for otherwise identical arrows from the same set to have significant variation in spine and because of that, give different results on paper.
- be sure that you have a torque free grip. This is probably the # 1 reason for poor results from paper testing.

Good luck,
Allen


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## Mrwintr (Jan 15, 2006)

AllenRead said:


> The first rule of bow tuning is that if it doesn't work moving it that way, move it the other way.
> 
> A few other things to check:
> - powder test to be sure that you don't have any contact.
> ...


Thanks for the reply, but it is none of the above mentioned.
I am hoping someone will just tell me if that Easton tuning guide is written backwards.
P.S.
This is not my Mathews that I am having this problem with.


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## AKRuss (Jan 10, 2003)

Obviously the rest appears to need adjustment to the right. I suspect the problem is in how you define a right tear. I use the Easton Arrow Tuning and Maintenance Guide as the last word but you have to read it well.


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## Flip Flop (Jan 1, 2005)

Is your idler wheel straight ? Just a thought.


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## bfisher (Nov 30, 2002)

Huntin' Dad said:


> Is your idler wheel straight ? Just a thought.


 Bingo, check for idler wheel lean. All the tuning data available assumes that the wheels are rolling over in a concentric manner.

As for the Easton Tuning Guide, many overlook it because it pertains to bare shaft tuning, but read the next to last paragraph at the bottom of page 13. Bare shaft or fletched arrow doesn't matter. They both leave the bow the same way under the same conditions.


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## Mrwintr (Jan 15, 2006)

I'm all set now by moving the rest to the right more than I had, but I still think the Easton Tuning guide was worded wrong! It is worded backwards of what everything else, everywhere else says and what common sense was telling me. Thanks


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## kyost (Aug 16, 2004)

If all else fails...have someone else shoot your bow through the paper. Chances are if your right tear won't come out, it's the way you wrap your paw around the grip.


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## AKRuss (Jan 10, 2003)

Paul, I just looked at my copy and I believe you're right. In the finger part of a nock right tear, #6 states to move the arrow rest toward the bow (right) but in the release aid part it states move the arrow to the left, which is incorrect. Same thing for left tear. I'm shocked ... One of us should write to Easton and let them know - and I elect you! Russ


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## EZ4U (Dec 28, 2005)

I don't think it is written wrong on Easton's web site. My experiments agree with their statements. I do believe that rules seem to reverse when something is bad out of kilter, like arrow spine. There are just too many dynamics at play.

If you are getting nock tear right, shooting a release right handed, I believe your arrow spine is weak! I just went through this today and wound up cutting about one inch of arrow off, one quarter of an inch at a time. 

I believe you need a stiffer arrow. Either shorter or less point weight!

My bare shaft now shoots straight into a two and half inch group at 30 yards with my fletched shafts. One thing to remember is that if you cut vanes off an arrow, you need to add some weight (tape) on the back of the arrow to equal the weight taken off. Adding weight to the back of an arrow makes the dynamic spine stiffer. Taking weight away from the back of an arrow makes the dynamic spine weaker.

One thing interesting I experienced was that while I was cutting the arrow off one quarter inch at a time, the arrow got less and less tail right until I reached a point where one more quarter inch shorter made the arrow shoot tail dead low at 6:00.! 

It shoots great now though. I just cut another shaft one half inch longer than the short one and fiddled with the rest and finally got it!

Good Luck ........EZ


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## archer58 in pa (Jan 3, 2007)

*Idler may be it.*

I had a Switchbach that I couldn't get to paper tune. I also had the same tear that you have only I'm a lefty and my tear was left.
No matter what I did I could not get a bullet.
The idler was the problem. 
Rather than go into a long explanation how to set the idler, I'll give you a quick one.

Set axle to axle exactly the same on both sides of the bow. This is your starting point for lean.
Take an arrow and lay it on the idler wheel so it's parallell w/ the bow string and on the inside (or shelf side) of the bow. The point of the arrow should be 1/8" inch away from the string at the nocking point. It should not cross the string.
If it is not , twist the yoke accordingly to accomplish this.
This is the quick explanation. For the long one go to Mathews web site and search "Vince tuning method".


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## GRIM (Mar 8, 2006)

On a single cam bow, twist the yoke on the arrow side to reduce that side in ATA no more than 1/16 and paper tune it from there.Vinces method works for some but not others, you want the idler set straight at full draw, not static position, putting an arrow on the idler at static position and 1/8 away sets it straight at rest, the arrow will cross at rest when you reduce the one side and fall in straight at full draw.FP and BH will hit same if shooting a bullethole. Been doing it this way for years


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Whats backwards? For a right tear move the rest left, and for a left tear move it right. Nothing new for a mathews guy.


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## Mrwintr (Jan 15, 2006)

red44 said:


> Whats backwards? For a right tear move the rest left, and for a left tear move it right. Nothing new for a mathews guy.


Yes, that is backwards, unless something is extremely wrong somewhere else on the bow and I said earlier...this wasn't my Mathews that I had the trouble with.
The only other time I have seen NOCK right tear, (for a righty) that was impossible to get rid of, was when I tried to paper tune a bow with a Whisker biscuit, now there's a nightmare!


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

I agree 100% on the WB. It should come with it's own can of spray powder in the package. :zip:


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## thespyhunter (Apr 8, 2005)

Mrwintr, the guide is not written backwards. Think about it ~ the nock end is the last thing to leave the rest, even on a drop away. If your getting a nock right tear, the nock end needs to move away from the riser. I have much experience with this tear, along with many others ( ask anyone who owns an '06 Trykon) . For some, moving the rest out past centershot was the only way to git rid of the right tear. For some, it may be that twisting on the yoke is the fix, as GRIM said. I dont think it is a "stiff arrow reaction", as that is very uncommon , especially on a single cam. On your single cam, I would bet that twisting on the yoke is the fix. On my Trykon, it was serving the floating yoke and twisting. Good luck


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## Longshot (Oct 16, 2002)

In general the Easton guide is correct.

If you shoot a release and have a nock right tear, do the following:

move the rest to the left on any style of arrow rest made for a release,
check the idler for lean
make sure you don't have too stiff of an arrow
make sure there is no rest contact on a TM hunter or similar
make sure you aren't torquing the bow
make sure you don't have the string pressing deep in your cheek on high let off bows,

and last but not least, for a nock LEFT tear, make sure the center serving isn't too big for the nock.

For left handed archers, you might see a nock right tear if the serving is too large, or if you are digging the string into your face.

The proof is in the dozens of bows I've tuned this year.


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## jerrytee (Feb 5, 2005)

It works just the way they said it for me. That tear indicates that the point of the arrow is too far to the left. So I moved the arrow rest into the riser to get the point in front of the nock.


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## dtrkyman (Jul 27, 2004)

Mrwintr said:


> Yes, that is backwards, unless something is extremely wrong somewhere else on the bow and I said earlier...this wasn't my Mathews that I had the trouble with.
> The only other time I have seen NOCK right tear, (for a righty) that was impossible to get rid of, was when I tried to paper tune a bow with a Whisker biscuit, now there's a nightmare!


funny i just put a biscuit on my drenalin,eyeballed it and it shoots bullet holes with 5 differant arrows.on the first shot with each no adjustments.


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## parkerbows (Oct 27, 2004)

jerrytee said:


> It works just the way they said it for me. That tear indicates that the point of the arrow is too far to the left. So I moved the arrow rest into the riser to get the point in front of the nock.


Only problem is the guide said to move it away from the riser for your tear (it said left)


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## Tim R Rau (Oct 31, 2005)

Wow!It seems some people are confused.The Easton tune chart is right.When you get a right tear with a right handed bow you move the arrow rest to the left.(away from the riser).If you get a left tear you move the rest towards the riser.A right tear is signs of a weak arrow and a left tear is signs of a stiff arrow if bow is set close to center shot.
To fix your problem you should first check for cam lean.2nd make sure your cams are in time.3rd set rest at manufacturers reccommended starting point.If you still are getting a right tear move your restin small increments to the left.If this doesn't fix the right tear set rest back to factory starting point and lower the draw weight.If this doesn't work your arrows are to under spined for your set up or you have fletching contact.I hope this helps.


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