# Easton Arrow Chart Confusion



## FallingCrows (Sep 24, 2007)

I'm a bit confused about the Easton Arrow chart. It seems to be setup for those who shoot with a release. And there seems to be two versions, one on the Martinarchery site and the other on the Easton. The problem is I shoot with fingers. My bow has a mild to medium cams and I’m using 2117's cut to 28.5" on a Whisker Biscuit. I have a draw weight of 63lb and a draw length of 28.5". And I'm using Thunderhead 100's 

There are notes on the chart that says if you shoot with fingers to add approx. 5 lbs to your draw weight. Then if the bow length is less then 43" and draw length is 28" or more then add approx. 5 or so pounds. That would make my max draw weight for selection the proper arrow shaft at approx. 73 lb. 
The reason I'm asking for clarity is I was given 2114's and I so desperately want them to work. But I’m coming to the conclusion that they just won’t and I must part with them. 

I guess the only way to find out is to use them and see what happens.


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## glass3222 (Jan 12, 2008)

You are reading the chart correctly, however, my father uses 2212's with very similar specs to yours and has had no problems getting them to work well. 2212 are very weak spine for his set up, but they do work.

Have you shot the 2114's yet? If so how are they flying?


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## jerrytee (Feb 5, 2005)

Bare shaft tune and see what the poundage ends up at


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## Unclegus (May 27, 2003)

2114 have a spine of .505. At the length and poundage you talk about, I doubt that they would carry a broadhead reliably with fingers. Like Jerry said...Bare shaft them. You never know. The Easton Chart is notoriously stiff. 
I shoot 2114 indoors @ 28 1/2", 4" helical feathers and 145 grains in the points thru a 46" Barnsdale @ 44# with round wheels and when I'm smooth (rarely) I can shoot the bareshafts in the X


"The Older I get, The better I was."


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## John49 (Feb 25, 2006)

I find that my bows will shoot arrows much better if I drop down either 2 or 3 groups on the Easton chart.


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## IBBW (Mar 29, 2005)

*Easton Arrow chart*

For finger shooting they are ballpark close at best. If they work, they work. Forget the chart.


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## FallingCrows (Sep 24, 2007)

*Arrow Chart arrow selection*

I've come to the same conclusion about the arrows and the chart.

I haven't had the chance to try them. I'm still putting on new vanes that are5", Straight, and with the front 1 degree to the left (i don't know the proper terminology). I cut a few of the to the length of 28 3/4 and 29 1/4. Then there are other that where already cut to 27" and 28" (28 1/8").

If they work, then they work. If not, I'll sell them

Thanks for the help.
Hope you are enjoying the rest of the Holiday Season.
Remember: Friends don't let friends shoot crappy bows


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## bowjunkie2 (Dec 12, 2004)

I wouldn't be surprised if they fly really well for you !


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## mike hogan (Nov 22, 2007)

how about a proelite at 50 lbs with 28 inch draw.2117's would be good?


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## archerm3 (Jan 4, 2007)

I would think you would have a hard time getting 2114's to tune out of a whisker, at 60 lbs. I would doubt a 2117 even. That shaft has got to be flexing heavily into the brushes. 
If it works it works though.


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## BUS314 (Dec 12, 2002)

FallingCrows said:


> I'm a bit confused about the Easton Arrow chart. It seems to be setup for those who shoot with a release. And there seems to be two versions, one on the Martinarchery site and the other on the Easton. The problem is I shoot with fingers. My bow has a mild to medium cams and I’m using 2117's cut to 28.5" on a Whisker Biscuit. I have a draw weight of 63lb and a draw length of 28.5". And I'm using Thunderhead 100's
> 
> There are notes on the chart that says if you shoot with fingers to add approx. 5 lbs to your draw weight. Then if the bow length is less then 43" and draw length is 28" or more then add approx. 5 or so pounds. That would make my max draw weight for selection the proper arrow shaft at approx. 73 lb.
> The reason I'm asking for clarity is I was given 2114's and I so desperately want them to work. But I’m coming to the conclusion that they just won’t and I must part with them.
> ...



Pretty reliable chart for finger shooting chart--

http://home.att.net/~sajackson/archery.html


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## FallingCrows (Sep 24, 2007)

Hey Bus314 - thank you.

It looks like the 2114's will work on my Jennings, which had round wheels. If I use 85 gn tips/bh's and keep the arrow length, no more or less then 28 (+/- 1/2) inches. Any heavier tip/bh or longer arrow and it'll be "c" soft

For my Proline, which has the high energy wheels I'll have to go to 2117's or into the 22/23 sizes. Provided I use 100 or 125 gn tips/bh's.

This was all determined using the "actual" draw weight option.


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## shadowhunter (Oct 12, 2003)

*recomendations*

Next time I suggest 2413's for light arrow, 2216 or 2219's for hunting and heavier arrow. The prices aren't bad to switch out.


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## FallingCrows (Sep 24, 2007)

*for which one?*



shadowhunter said:


> Next time I suggest 2413's for light arrow, 2216 or 2219's for hunting and heavier arrow. The prices aren't bad to switch out.


Which one do you recommend the 2413's for, the Jennings or Proline?
I'm guessing you mean the Proline because I actually do have a dozen uncut 2413's.

And did you determine this with the 'Actual' or 'Calculated' draw weight?


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## shadowhunter (Oct 12, 2003)

*either one*

My suggestion was meant for either bow. The spines are close on all. Others said to bare shaft tune and for a finger shooter that is a critical measure of correct shaft and length. You can down load the Easton Arrow Tuning Guide which will help you in your tuning questions. For a finger shooter dealing with the archers paradox of the arrow going "around" your riser the arrow LENGTH is very critical to find the right 'nodes' of contact as the arrow moves forward until it passes the bow and hopefully it straightens out on it's way to the target. SO, don't cut them tooo short before you check how they fly from your bow. Lighter or heavier points can then help you fine tune the spine to get good direction of your arrow to target. Left is stiff and right is weak if everything else is correct. Read the Tuning guide and it will help you not to make mistakes.


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## FallingCrows (Sep 24, 2007)

You said "Left is stiff and right is weak if everything else is correct"

Does this apply to only right handed (RH) shooters or both LH and RH?


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## shadowhunter (Oct 12, 2003)

*Right only*

I was talking for right handed only. If the arrow goes left the stiffer arrow doesn't allow the arrow to go 'around' the riser or rest and flies off left. A too weak arrow goes around the rest too easily and flies off right. For a right handed finger shooter the rest should be just a bit off center anyway to give the arrow some support on the release because we let go of the string from the side not like a release that lets go directly from behind the string.


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## FallingCrows (Sep 24, 2007)

So for a LH'er like me. A too weak of an arrow, it'll fly to the left. And if the arrow is too stiff it'll fly right.

Thanks for the additional info.


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