# Found a Mountaineer Archery bow in the attic. Need some advice.



## MarksmanCentral (Dec 4, 2013)

So, I was looking in the attic a few weeks ago and found a very nice bow that my grandfather bought 20+ years ago just before he died. It is in immaculate condition. It was only used a couple of times. (he died a couple months after acquiring it) Having been stored for so long the string is not serviceable. It is heads and shoulders above my pawn shop find that I use now. It is complete with case and tool kit and everything. (bird droppings aside) Can you guys give me a push in the right direction as to where to start getting it back into service?

Markings are as follows:

Mountaineer STD
Ranger 3-D
Hyper-Flite PRO

Draw 29-31
Weight 55-70
string 58
Cable 44
Let-off 80

The draw was about an 1.5in long for me. I know nothing about these things. I shoot them, but I have never worked on one. Any information about the bow itself is also greatly appreciated. Family heirlooms deserve a complete story.


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## 12sonly (Jan 6, 2007)

Take it to local archery shop they can as far as string and cable. That was a great bow in the day,they when out of business in the mid 90s.i think they were based in West Virginia.


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## wvbowhunter77 (Feb 19, 2009)

Chuck nease is the creator of those mountaineer bows he lives in salt rock area in wv, name n number shouldn't be hard to get I think he maybe working with Winn bows currently. He could tell ya anything ya need to know abt it.


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## wvbowhunter77 (Feb 19, 2009)

Not Winn but currently with carbon tech I think or last I heard he was I don't know how Winn got in last post?


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## ron w (Jan 5, 2013)

they were extremely well made. excellent shooting, bows, with barnsdale limbs. the only problem I see s that by what you state, the draw length is too long for you and you might have problems finding the right cams or modules, now-a-days. 
one remedy is to have a shorter string made that will yield the right draw length (called "short-stringing" the bow), but you'll loose draw weight, some speed, some let-off and completely change the feel of the draw cycle.....but it will still shoot very well once properly tuned.
I have a "hyper-flyte" target bow, that is painted in a very beautiful two-tone blue paint job. nice medium blue with darker blue airbrushed on all the corners and edges. MR2000 riser, the "hyperflyte" designation refers to having Barnsdale limbs.....best limbs in the industry, back the and still today.
his bows had a very "solid" feeling about them and ran just a bit heavy, but that's what made them feel so very stable. they were actually the beginning of what we now consider the "low volume, high quality, upper end bows", like "Elite" and others in that same market niche.


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## mathews/fish (Jun 19, 2005)

As stated in the above posts...one very well made bow. 
I ordered a brand new one in LH back in the day, which cost an extra $100 over the RH. Found LH was almost 2# heavier than RH model. My LH was made with a poured riser vs a RH machined riser. My limb pockets were not well formed and rubbed the limb on one side badly.
I phoned Mountaineer to request another bow...Chuck Nease or the owner of Mountaineer was also a "correct-handed" archer. They hand picked me a bow to replace one I had been sent. 
Second bow was much better riser. I was able to shoot my 80# Mountaineer 3D bow, with a 6" Golden Eagle overdraw, the REAL Beman Hunter 5575 arrows from France cut down to 24.5" with 2.5" vanes out to 40 yards and robin-hood them at will. I destroyed several dozen arrows showing off that bow while working at the local archery shop back then.
The 3D had draw stop screw which you installed on outer edge of cams for either 65% or 80% let-off.
They were in my mind the very best in their day. I know of two persons who still shoot theirs, which I sold them back in the 90's.


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## MarksmanCentral (Dec 4, 2013)

I was concerned about the draw length. I didn't expect it to be a simple case of a shorter string. I took the bow over to my other grandfather's place and he took the string off and was going to see if he had another to fit. He ended up cutting the loop on one of the cables so now I cant put it back together and get the measurements off of it..... drab. I guess I can measure the string and cables themselves and figure out what the draw was. Oh well, I do love a good puzzle.


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## FS560 (May 22, 2002)

The connection is that I think Win & Win makes the carbon handles for CT.


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## MarksmanCentral (Dec 4, 2013)

mathews/fish said:


> As stated in the above posts...one very well made bow.
> I ordered a brand new one in LH back in the day, which cost an extra $100 over the RH. Found LH was almost 2# heavier than RH model. My LH was made with a poured riser vs a RH machined riser. My limb pockets were not well formed and rubbed the limb on one side badly.
> I phoned Mountaineer to request another bow...Chuck Nease or the owner of Mountaineer was also a "correct-handed" archer. They hand picked me a bow to replace one I had been sent.
> Second bow was much better riser. I was able to shoot my 80# Mountaineer 3D bow, with a 6" Golden Eagle overdraw, the REAL Beman Hunter 5575 arrows from France cut down to 24.5" with 2.5" vanes out to 40 yards and robin-hood them at will. I destroyed several dozen arrows showing off that bow while working at the local archery shop back then.
> ...


Can you explain a bit more about the screw holes and what they are used for? I have gotten strings and cables made and strung it up again. It is now tuned as far as I can get it. The draw is just a tad too long, but nothing extreme enough to make it uncomfortable. It was set on the longest draw (31) and I put it in the shortest notch. I tuned the cables to make everything line up the best I could. It will go to a shop before I shoot it to make sure I didn't screw it up. I cant figure out how the screw holes work.


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## archeryshack (Jul 17, 2009)

Great bows! I shot one back in the day


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## archeryisme (May 22, 2006)

As others have stated before. Very good bows. I was actually on shooting staff for them back in the day. Wow that's been a while. I Think I had a machined riser bow called MR 2020 or MR2000, something like that. I actually still have one of the round wheel bows that the wife shoots every once in a while. Only thing I didn't like about them was the grip was kinda wide for my hand. But other than that they were one of the best, most sound bows I have ever seen. They were one of the most shootable bows for 80% let off. Back then I think they were about the only ones making 80%let off. Yes they were made in WV. If you can get a hold of Chuck Nease he can probably tell you anything you want to know.


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## ron w (Jan 5, 2013)

MarksmanCentral,
I had the same cams on my hyperflyte target bow. they had a small peg that threaded into the outer edge of the cam, that came in contact with the cable for stops. there were two or three holes that that you could screw those pegs into, to change draw length. changing the location of those pegs, also changed the let-off by limiting the amount of rotation the cam had. as the draw length got shorter, the let-off was reduced.
the bows were very solid feeling, slightly heavy, because the risers were substantial, but that's not always a bad thing.
I have a brother-in-law, that still hunts with an "evolution". it has a built-in overdraw and 80lb. limbs!...I can't even get it over the hump!


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## whack&stack (Oct 15, 2007)

Man memory lane!! Enjoy the bow they were made right here in WV. Salt Rock WV to be exact. Chuck was co-owner the other owner died. Chuck rebuilt the company under the CSS name. I've killed over 90% of deer with a Chuck Nease product. That's a Mountaineer Archery 3D hunter Dan Fitzgerald edition in the pic. By far and away the bow I've killed the most deer with. Used it for about 8 years. Chuck works for carbon tech now I'll bet you can contact him on their website. ATTACH]1830620[/ATTACH]


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## JF from VA (Dec 5, 2002)

Marksman,
Does your bow have round wheels and how much too long in drawlength is it? There are limited options to shorten the drawlength, assuming you are using the shortest peg on the wheel. You can shorten the string, lengthen the cables, do both of these, or find some smaller wheels. Good luck on finding the wheels. Years ago, I needed some parts and contacted a guy named Junie O'Brien in Ashland, KY for Mountaineer parts. I think his business was O'Brien Archery. From what I understand, he bought the remaining parts when Mountaineer went out of business. You might try doing a search to see if he is still in business. I have two Mountaineers, one very similar to yours, and they are both shooters.


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## MarksmanCentral (Dec 4, 2013)

JF from VA said:


> Marksman,
> Does your bow have round wheels and how much too long in drawlength is it? There are limited options to shorten the drawlength, assuming you are using the shortest peg on the wheel. You can shorten the string, lengthen the cables, do both of these, or find some smaller wheels. Good luck on finding the wheels. Years ago, I needed some parts and contacted a guy named Junie O'Brien in Ashland, KY for Mountaineer parts. I think his business was O'Brien Archery. From what I understand, he bought the remaining parts when Mountaineer went out of business. You might try doing a search to see if he is still in business. I have two Mountaineers, one very similar to yours, and they are both shooters.


Yes they are round. The draw is not excessively long. I can manage just fine. I would prefer it to be a bit shorter, but it is not as bad as I thought. I have it set on the shortest notch (29in). But, I do not have the pegs that these guys are talking about. The treaded holes on the outer edge are empty.


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## MarksmanCentral (Dec 4, 2013)

ron w said:


> MarksmanCentral,
> I had the same cams on my hyperflyte target bow. they had a small peg that threaded into the outer edge of the cam, that came in contact with the cable for stops. there were two or three holes that that you could screw those pegs into, to change draw length. changing the location of those pegs, also changed the let-off by limiting the amount of rotation the cam had. as the draw length got shorter, the let-off was reduced.
> the bows were very solid feeling, slightly heavy, because the risers were substantial, but that's not always a bad thing.
> I have a brother-in-law, that still hunts with an "evolution". it has a built-in overdraw and 80lb. limbs!...I can't even get it over the hump!


Thanks, that makes sense. I have four holes on mine. All are empty. After drawing it a few times, I can tell that the end of the draw is...how to describe it? It is like over travel in a gun trigger. There is too much slack between full draw and where the weight comes back in when released. At least it seems that way to me. I can wiggle my draw at least a quarter of an inch before the weight kicks back in. Having a pin in one of those holes would eliminate that I think. Ideally, it should just barely break into the holding position at full draw. I am going to the shop in the morning to make sure it is tuned correctly. That issue may resolve itself after he is done with it. We shall see!


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## jkeiffer (Aug 3, 2007)

if you can post up some pictures of the cams I can give Chuck a call and get you the string tunes (I can make them if you need as well). most likely modules if the cam has them will be tough to find. the next best thing IMO would be to put a CSS P1 cam or OS3/OS2 cam setup on it since modules are readily available through me or any Carbon Tech dealer.

feel free to PM me if you have any questions
jkeiffer


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## Durrbeck (Aug 2, 2011)

get ahold of jim shivley in Richmond va he was a sells rep for them he still has about 15 of them on his walls. and boxes of parts for all of them. I needed mods last year for one he had about 25 or 30 sets


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## MarksmanCentral (Dec 4, 2013)

Here are some images of the cams. It is a right hand bow. Check them out. I need to get to tuning it now. My pro shop was packed the other day. He didn't seem to want to fool with my old bow when he had all those guys dropping $1500 bucks for a new Chill or Creed. Cant blame him. So, I decided to learn to work it myself.

http://s1096.photobucket.com/user/marksmancantral/library/Mountaineer Bow


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## jkeiffer (Aug 3, 2007)

you have a recurved limb compound for sure. like others said probably a barnsdale limb which you will not find a better one out there. as for the cams, they pre date my expirience with Mountaineer, however it does not look like there is any adjustability in them other than just twisting cables and string.

Merry Christmas,
jkeiffer


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## MarksmanCentral (Dec 4, 2013)

Durrbeck said:


> get ahold of jim shivley in Richmond va he was a sells rep for them he still has about 15 of them on his walls. and boxes of parts for all of them. I needed mods last year for one he had about 25 or 30 sets


Do you have any contact info for him? I really need to find the stop pins. Contact info for Chuck Neese would be good too. I cant seem to find either.


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## FS560 (May 22, 2002)

Durrbeck said:


> get ahold of jim shivley in Richmond va he was a sells rep for them he still has about 15 of them on his walls. and boxes of parts for all of them. I needed mods last year for one he had about 25 or 30 sets


try 804-512-0440


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