# Mathews Outback can't set center shot.



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Yep. Set center shot like it's supposed to be then fix whatever is wrong. I don't care what bow you have, 30 years old or just off the assembly line today. Center shot can be eye balled in and have you well inside the "ball park." Align the string with the groove in the top wheel and then align the arrow to the string.
Now, tell us why you moved the rest that you're getting contact. That's help us.


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## Nockit Man (Dec 8, 2006)

Hi Sonny,
I could see the tip of the arrow was to the left.
Checked with an alignment tool from string to arrow in front of riser
it confirmed the rest needed to move right. Rest will not adjust anymore
to the right,if it did the fletching would contact the riser. Help.
Stan


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## subconsciously (Aug 22, 2009)

Walkback tune.


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## WDMJR3DBOWGUY (Dec 2, 2003)

It's called ideller wheel lean. It isn't set correctly.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Nockit Man said:


> Hi Sonny,
> I could see the tip of the arrow was to the left.
> Checked with an alignment tool from string to arrow in front of riser
> it confirmed the rest needed to move right. Rest will not adjust anymore
> ...


Alignment tools don't always tell the "truth." I've used several different gages and having setup I don't know how many bows I don't even trust a laser farther than I can spit. If center shot was set as I suggested above and the rest still have to be moved excessively to the riser then there is another problem or problems. I'd think there'd have to be a ton of wheel lean to cause a lot of rest movement. Take a arrow and lay across the wheel, down the string, to check. Arrow should run pretty much parallel or parallel if real finicky about such. One mentioned Walk Back Tune. Well, I'd like to have center shot in the "ball park" before pursuing as it saves a lot of moving the rest and time.
Try both and get back with us.


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## va limbhanger (Dec 12, 2008)

I agree on checking for "Idler Lean" at full draw. I've seen this same issue many times and the idler wasn't tracking straight at full draw. Also, because of Mathews bows having a long riser and just the nature of machined aluminum, your bow has what is called riser flex at full draw, so using a centershot tool is futile IMO. Just go start with your rest with what Mathews recomends for a centershot starting point. Then, with your idler tarcking straight at full draw and your rest set at the recomended starting measurement you should be very close. Reminder, all is lost and for not if hand (grip) torque is an issue!


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## Nockit Man (Dec 8, 2006)

Hey Guys, Thanks for the replies.
I tried all the suggestions but the center shot is still off.
The bow is now at my local Mathew's Dealer being checked.
May be serious riser or limb problems.

Nockit Man


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## nag (Jun 13, 2007)

Center shot for a Mathews is 13/16th.
That's a good starting point.
You never mentioned what arrows and poundage/draw lenght you're shooting. If they are spined too weak for the poundage, you will never be able to move the rest right enough to fix the problem.


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