# What spine for 30" draw 45 lbs recurve?



## wacker stacker (Feb 2, 2006)

I pulled out the Hoyt Ram Reflex today and I think I am going to hunt with it some this year. It is a 45 pounder and I draw right at 30" maybe just a tad over. I would like to shoot Bear Razorheads which I think are 145 grains. It has a flipper rest on it and my dad shot it in indoor league a few years ago and it shot well but where do you guys start for nock height? Thanks!


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## UtahIdahoHunter (Mar 27, 2008)

If you are on a budget look at these in 30-50 spine http://www.lancasterarchery.com/carbon-express-predator-ii-feather-fletched-stock-arrow.html
I have shot them in a couple of different 45 lb bows and they are a great bargin. They come fletched with feathers and come with inserts for a great price, but for broadheads I would go with bigger feathers down the road. With a 145 gr head they should put you at about 500 grains. I would leave them full length and try them.


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## wacker stacker (Feb 2, 2006)

I am thinking 400 spine.


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## Bowmania (Jan 3, 2003)

If you're thing that I'm thinking .500 at least with 145 grains. That's a guess you could go to Stu to find out for sure.

Bowmania


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

A .400 sounds reasonable to me. If you truly have a 30" draw, your 45# bow is going to be closer to 50# at your draw length. With that long of a draw length I would leave your arrows full length (uncut), at least to start.

You can play with the 3Rivers spine calculator and get another opinion (http://www.3riversarchery.com/SpineCalculator.asp?pass=2). I say opinion because what works for one might not work for others, lots of the variables involved with matching an arrow to a bow comes down to the shooter.

In my opinion you might have a tough road to hoe if you want to hunt this fall. Some pick it up quickly, most take a while to get the hang of it. Work hard, get your shooting relatively consistent, try to tune your arrows (http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html), _then_ buy your broadheads. Going in to it with a predetermined broadhead in a predetermined weight makes it harder since the easiest way to tune is by swapping point weights to modify the dynamic spine of your arrows. In other words, keep your options open for now. That's one reason to leave your arrows long.

There are plenty of good videos on the net, here's one link...http://www.youtube.com/results?sear....1j5.6.0...0.0...1ac.1.11.youtube.h2cuKoCXR1U

Good luck!


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

a lot goes into spine on a recurve...can't just go by a calculator. You and I can have the exact same DL, DW yet require a completely differnet spine.

Order a couple arrows in 400, 450, 500- see which one fly better (results testing)




anything other than results testing is simply guessing.


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## Zurf (Mar 8, 2014)

I've got a 45# bow, and a 29+" draw. 400 spine carbon arrows with 125gr field points is way, way, way over spined. I'm not confident that another 20gr in the head would make the difference. I'm using some 3555 500 on it now, and it likes those much better. I've tried 2016 aluminum with 125 gr points and even that was too stiff, but closer to what I need than the 500 carbons. I'm going to pick up 1/2 dozen 1916's given the opportunity and funds, and I think those will do what I need. 

Now, every bow is different and I'm not using any broadheads. Perhaps those would make a difference in your situation. 

Perhaps it would be helpful to get one of the arrow spine test kits from 3Rivers and give a few different spines a shot through your particular bow?


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## marcelxl (Dec 5, 2010)

Thats what I'm shooting………

I got 150 CX heritage cut at 30" w/100gr+ 21gr inserts up front (bareshafts slightly weak) and 500 Easton Powerflights w/100gr+inserts cut at 30" showing very close to perfection from my 45# (fast) longbow.

For my 45# Recurves I use:
I have 400 Easton powerflights full length w/125gr + 21gr inserts & Heritage 250's w/125 + stock inserts left full length. Both of these tune very nicely of my bows (60"/45#) and I set up my Dorado to use the same arrows, shooting off the shelf by building out the strike plate……… a bit tedious but gives me a sweet back up bow for hunts & out of town 3D shoots without doubling up on everything

Hope that helps


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## wacker stacker (Feb 2, 2006)

I was shooting some of my dad's Vaperwood 3000's with 145 tips this weekend and they seemed to fly decent at 20 but at 30 I noticed more issues. It was pretty windy though. I need to see how long they are. We have all kinds of tips and broadheads etc. I just need to get some arrows and start in. I have plenty 400 spine arrows but hate to cut the vanes off. I just need to buy some all done up with feathers.
I guess I am not shooting traditional as I am using a release and sights when I go full tradition I will get out the Bear Montana longbow.


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## Bowmania (Jan 3, 2003)

Calculators are as good as the info you put in. I've been shooting a bow 50 pounds at 29 inches for longer than I've shot any bow. I can tune that bow to shoot .610, .500 and .390. The .390's have 360 grains up front with an FOC of 25%. All three of these set ups shoot bullet holes through paper at 12 feet and 12 yards (well not bullet holes they have the big 160 Snuffer). I do have to jump through some hoops on either side with strike plate thickness, size string and number of silencers. For the .390, it's a 6 strand string with no silencers.

Bowmania


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## martha j (May 11, 2009)

the only way to tell what you need in arrows is to have a large selection of arrows so you can go stiff with different point weight & then work down to weak arrows, then you find the median that is right for you.

most people except a arrow that is to stiff & never know the difference because they don't want to have a plethola of arrows on hand.


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## Bill 2311 (Jun 24, 2005)

For nock height, try 3/8" above square to start and watch the tail flight. 
I would try and "borrow" different arrows from friends and shoot them a time or two. plugging the specs into the calculator will tell you a lot.
If you don't have access to different arrows in your draw length, contact Lancaster Archery and order just two of a couple different types/spines.
When I shoot the lighter limbs I get 48# @ 29", and a .500 GT Kinetics (full length) with 125 tip does real well for me.
Have you looked into aluminums in 1916? Heavier than carbons but real durable and quieter from the bow.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Fury90flier said:


> a lot goes into spine on a recurve...can't just go by a calculator. You and I can have the exact same DL, DW yet require a completely differnet spine.
> 
> Order a couple arrows in 400, 450, 500- see which one fly better (results testing)
> 
> anything other than results testing is simply guessing.


Ditto on that.

Add a stab, it changes. Add a bow quiver, it changes....


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## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

I'd start with 400's, full length (~31") and 125gr points w/ standard inserts. Should be very close.


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

I'm shooting a 400 spine shaft full length with a 65gr insert (50gr insert weight) and a 125gr head off a 40lb bow, drawing 45lb at my DL, and they tune well. I think if you truly draw 30", your 45lb bow will probably draw 50-52lbs so a full length 400 spine arrow with a 145-150gr head would be a good start. I'd look at using Gold Tip shafts so you can use the weight system to help tune. I actually modified my inserts to fit the weights and it was the smartest thing I've ever done as far as tuning my trad stuff.


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## deadquiet (Jan 25, 2005)

Fury90flier said:


> a lot goes into spine on a recurve...can't just go by a calculator. You and I can have the exact same DL, DW yet require a completely differnet spine.
> 
> Order a couple arrows in 400, 450, 500- see which one fly better (results testing)
> 
> ...


+1 and get a set of these too.

http://www.3riversarchery.com/screw-in+field+point+test+kit+-+11+32&quot;_iCF-T_baseitem.html


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