# DIY Drawboard & Shooting Machine



## 156p&c (Aug 20, 2010)

cool rig


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## dogguy (Aug 9, 2005)

Could we see some side photos of the bow holder. I like this design and would like to make one as well but want to see more photos if you can.
Thanks
Shane


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## shotime (Jan 6, 2012)

nice design


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## pa_archer (Dec 11, 2005)

Looks good! I am interested in the grip and bow holder. If you can take some closer photos, that would be great.


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

Okay, first picture:









I changed the design. I found that having the winch on the opposite side using only eyelet guides and not pulleys, puts too much strain and wear on the rope. So, I moved it to the same side as the bow.









The bow holder was a 3/8" x 8" hook which I made square, using a propane torch and a piece of pipe to bend it with, and then once cooled, I put 4 layers of shrink wrap around the 3 sides. As for the blue foam thing on the left, it prevents the bow from jumping off. That foam is going to be changed out to a piece of foam from my gym equipment. Under the foam is a 1/2" (inner diameter) pvc pipe over 1/2" x 8" carriage bolt with a nut holding the pvc in place.









Into a hole in the side of the wood it goes for quick and easy removal of the bow. The white U-shaped pvc thingy below it is a bow leveler. It straddles to riser below the grip, so that the bow remains vertical. It is adjustable in-and-out depending in which way the bow may be leaning. It does not interfere with the shot, since it is smooth, and won't harm the finish on the bow.









As for the release, I got an Allen because it has the T-bar at the wrist end of it, where it installs into the wrist strap. I took off the wrist strap and installed it to a 1/4" anchor shackle. I had to drill out the holes on each side of the shackle to fit the T-bar. The black rope guide is part of a hinge for a gate. I got it because it is completely continuous inside the hole, unlike the regular eye bolts that aren't, which might tend to fray the rope.

The exact centerline of the bow grip and the eye bolt is 3" from the board. 

You can't see it, but the casters I had that were laying around were crap, and I had to buy new ones for about $3.00 each. I got regular ones for the front and locking ones for the rear.

As for other things I built in the past 2 days, here's my work-bench with my bow vise mounted to a board, clamped down with quick grips (this makes my vise portable, in case I need to make a house-call):









I drilled holes in the top to stick my allen keys, from 3/8" to .050"

Here's my target stand and paper tuning stand:









Don't mind my socks below the paper tuning stand.

That's about it.


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## Scott D. (Aug 9, 2010)

Nice rig. Good luck with the home based shop. How much for the sword on the wall? What's it IBO at when you chuck it really hard?


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## pa_archer (Dec 11, 2005)

Very nice. Thanks.


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

Okay, I finally had time to do some shopping for what would be the perfect material to wrap the 1/2" bolt/pvc pipe bow retainer with, and I found it in the bicycle department at Dick's Sporting Goods - BMX bike handlebar grips:









Just wet the inside with Windex and slide it on the 1/2" pvc pipe; it's a perfect fit. Anyway, I think my shooting machine/drawboard is finished. The next thing I have to build is an arrow saw table

Also, while I was at Dick's, I saw that they had the Bohning fletching jig that looks exactly like the Bitzenburger jig, except it's plastic. I'm hoping the glue won't stick to the plastic and would work just as well as, if not better, than the Bitzenburger jig. Gonna play with it tomorrow and refletch some arrows I have that I haven't indexed yet with my arrow spline tester. Gonna be a fun Labor Day tomorrow. Have a good one!


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

Scott D. said:


> Nice rig. Good luck with the home based shop. How much for the sword on the wall? What's it IBO at when you chuck it really hard?


The sword on the wall is not for sale. It's made from spring steel and razor sharp on both edges.


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## TheW900Man (Sep 18, 2006)

That's a great job, Now all you need to do it shoot some video of this thing in action...Looks like you have some great ideas in your mind, on a poor mans budget to boot.:rock:


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

TheW900Man said:


> That's a great job, Now all you need to do it shoot some video of this thing in action...Looks like you have some great ideas in your mind, on a poor mans budget to boot.:rock:


I agree well done looks fully functional and I love the bike handle grip. I'm a big fan of re purposing and utilizing components from other devices. Great Job!


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## lc12 (Jul 30, 2009)

Only thing I would do different is get rid of the release and use a "spring latch" hook.
To much of a risk of bumping the trigger while working around the bow and having it fire!


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

lc12 said:


> Only thing I would do different is get rid of the release and use a "spring latch" hook.
> To much of a risk of bumping the trigger while working around the bow and having it fire!


I don't use the release to time bows. I have an openable chain link that I attach to the rope behind he knot and a turnbuckle with a hook on one end for that job. I use the release to test fire bows so I can paper tune them, hence the title of this thread. I'll take a picture tonight to show you what I'm talking about. 

I still haven't had time to make a video of this machine in action yet, as I am busy with nursing school right now. I will when all these exams are over, hopefully, by this weekend.


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## colo_dually (Oct 11, 2011)

I really like what you presented here, thank you for the effort.


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

b0w_bender said:


> I agree well done looks fully functional and I love the bike handle grip. I'm a big fan of re purposing and utilizing components from other devices. Great Job!


The bike handle isn't the grip on which the bow sits. It goes in front of the handle to prevent the bow from jumping forward. It should be clear once I have a video up. I still have to dig out my camcorder and tripod.


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

lc12 said:


> Only thing I would do different is get rid of the release and use a "spring latch" hook.
> To much of a risk of bumping the trigger while working around the bow and having it fire!


Here's what I was talking about:


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## lc12 (Jul 30, 2009)

Looks good! 
Guess I should have read a bit closer as I did not catch the "shooting machine" part! Sorry, about that.
I also use a "safety loop" on my drawboard just in case!
Something you might think about, since you are using this as a shooting machine, is to put an eyebolt on the under side of the 2 x 6 board and suspend a 5 gallon bucket filled with sand (or other weight of your choosing).
This will take some of the "shock" out of your shooter and make it much more stable.
Nice project for sure.


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## slowen (Jun 27, 2006)

Cool!


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## primal-archery (Jun 25, 2011)

Have to post so I can come back and find this. Great job


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## TheLongbowShoot (Mar 23, 2012)

Probably better than a Hooter Shooter


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

lc12 said:


> Looks good!
> Guess I should have read a bit closer as I did not catch the "shooting machine" part! Sorry, about that.
> I also use a "safety loop" on my drawboard just in case!
> Something you might think about, since you are using this as a shooting machine, is to put an eyebolt on the under side of the 2 x 6 board and suspend a 5 gallon bucket filled with sand (or other weight of your choosing).
> ...


It's plenty heavy. It's got a 2x6 x 5ft. long mainboard (about 8 lbs), a 5 lb piece of angle iron on top, a winch that weighs about 10 lbs, 2x4 legs and base (about 20 lbs), various screws & bolts, miscellaneous parts, etc. The thing is one 2 lockable casters in the back and wooden feet in front. This shooting machine isn't budging. 

My D-loops don't break, but when I draw a bow back to check cam timing, I go right on the string between the D-loop knots with the turnbuckle. When I use it as a shooting machine, I'll go on the D-loop with the release. I have a yard stick that starts at 1.75" to where the throat of the grip is on the bow holder, so I can measure a bow's draw length.

I'm going to try and set up my camcorder and show this thing in action. In the meantime, I'll post some more pictures late tonight.


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

Pictures of the drawboard function in action:









Here is a picture of the bowholder, bow leveler, and yardstick. The bow leveler can be moved up or down on its board for different height risers, so that it won't create an obstruction for a bow to freely pitch forwards or backwards when drawn or shot.









Here it is with my bow in the bowholder and the bike gripped bow retainer in front of the grip, so the bow just jump off the holder when shot. The PVC bow leveler goes left and right on a threaded rod with wing nuts on each side for quick adjustment.









The turnbuckle with my bow at full draw. It's connected to the rope behind the knot with a openable chain link, which can be removed when converted to a shooting machine. Notice the release dangling below it.









My bow at full draw.









View of the bow cradled in the grip and bow leveler.









Added cross bracing at the base so the wood doesn't warp and go out of square.


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## drillbit (Oct 26, 2009)

Just wanted to subscribe......great project


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## Millcreek (Oct 23, 2012)

Awesome project! Been thinking of building one similar for awhile now, I like your ideas better. Question, how do you know when you are at full draw? I know when I pull back by hand, I can feel my bow break over and hit the wall. How do you know when you crank it back by the winch?


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

Millcreek said:


> Awesome project! Been thinking of building one similar for awhile now, I like your ideas better. Question, how do you know when you are at full draw? I know when I pull back by hand, I can feel my bow break over and hit the wall. How do you know when you crank it back by the winch?



The cam(s) usually have a drawstop peg or groove in the drawlength module. You just have to watch out for when they're close to hitting the cable(s) or limb(s).


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## droppixel (Nov 5, 2010)

What was the purpose of the angle iron? Too keep it rigid and add weight? Draw board/shooter has been on my to-do list and this is perfect since I don't really have much access to a welder to put one together like Hutch has done, if you've see it.


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

droppixel said:


> What was the purpose of the angle iron? Too keep it rigid and add weight? Draw board/shooter has been on my to-do list and this is perfect since I don't really have much access to a welder to put one together like Hutch has done, if you've see it.


Yes, the angle iron is to stiffen the 2x6, since it will start to warp over time as the wood dries out, and from the tension created by the constant drawing of bows. Yes, I've seen Hutch's and it's a really nice job, but a lot of work. I also don't have a welder, so this was the next best thing.


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## pacnate (Sep 23, 2009)

How do you know where to line up the eye bolt for the rope to go through close to the winch? I guess what I'm asking is yours looks like it's a little higher than the winch and the grip of the bow, just wondering what's the proper height of it in relation to the other two....?

Great project though. Subscribed.


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## shaffer88 (Dec 3, 2007)

L.I.Archer said:


> I don't use the release to time bows. I have an openable chain link that I attach to the rope behind he knot and a turnbuckle with a hook on one end for that job. I use the release to test fire bows so I can paper tune them, hence the title of this thread. I'll take a picture tonight to show you what I'm talking about.
> 
> I still haven't had time to make a video of this machine in action yet, as I am busy with nursing school right now. I will when all these exams are over, hopefully, by this weekend.


When do you grad. fyi if school has not told you yet study for that nclex, and take a kaplan course. Good luck need to post to come back to it

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

shaffer88 said:


> When do you grad. fyi if school has not told you yet study for that nclex, and take a kaplan course. Good luck need to post to come back to it
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2


Hopefully, I graduate in 2 years, if this country is still around.


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

pacnate said:


> How do you know where to line up the eye bolt for the rope to go through close to the winch? I guess what I'm asking is yours looks like it's a little higher than the winch and the grip of the bow, just wondering what's the proper height of it in relation to the other two....?
> 
> Great project though. Subscribed.


Measure from the throat of the grip to the berger hole and it will get you close to where you mount the eye bolt. Unless I actually drilled holes every 1/2" apart so I can move the eye bolt for different bows, I pretty much just went 3" from the center of the bow holder to the center of the eye bolt.


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## pacnate (Sep 23, 2009)

Gotcha. Thanks


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

pacnate said:


> Gotcha. Thanks


I take that back. It's more like 2.5". I'll measure it when I get home. I haven't been home in over a week, what with the hurricane, blackout, and now the nor'easter screwing things up for me here on Long Island.


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## Jrod2791 (Nov 18, 2011)

Awesome skills man. Love a good DIY project. It's easy to go out and buy something, but I like to challenge myself and save move and use the crap I have laying around my house. Haha. But good job. Post a video if you get the time. 

-Jarrod


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## elkslayer (Mar 7, 2003)

Nice job thanks for taking the time to post it.


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## dgmeadows (Jun 15, 2005)

Thanks for sharing. Based on your ideas, I have mine in progress now. It will be overkill on the framework, because I am using left over laminated beams from our house (built 10 years ago, it is about time I did something with the surplus beams taking up room in my basement.)

My posts are made from 5" X 6" porch posts, and the main beam is a 3.75" X 10" beam. It is 8' long, but I will probably cut it down to about 6'. I want to have room for a scale between the winch and string. I picked up a worm gear driven winch from Harbor Freight for $27.99 (including cable) and an aluminum yardstick for $3. Picked up about $14 of hardware this morning, so I will have less than $50 in it. (Not counting what I paid for the beams 10 years ago ;-). I am still trying to figure out how best to make the bow holder. I might try the torch-bend method you used. I was going to just use a 1/2" straight bolt, but I do like the ability to have "fingers" on either side of the bow to help secure it.

I will post pics of this beast when it is done.


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## T3RMNTR (Jul 15, 2010)

Well done - nice project! I'm planning to build one. Thanks for posting it.
How are you recovering from hurricane Sandy? Power on? Hopefully things getting back to normal?


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

dgmeadows said:


> Thanks for sharing. Based on your ideas, I have mine in progress now. It will be overkill on the framework, because I am using left over laminated beams from our house (built 10 years ago, it is about time I did something with the surplus beams taking up room in my basement.)
> 
> My posts are made from 5" X 6" porch posts, and the main beam is a 3.75" X 10" beam. It is 8' long, but I will probably cut it down to about 6'. I want to have room for a scale between the winch and string. I picked up a worm gear driven winch from Harbor Freight for $27.99 (including cable) and an aluminum yardstick for $3. Picked up about $14 of hardware this morning, so I will have less than $50 in it. (Not counting what I paid for the beams 10 years ago ;-). I am still trying to figure out how best to make the bow holder. I might try the torch-bend method you used. I was going to just use a 1/2" straight bolt, but I do like the ability to have "fingers" on either side of the bow to help secure it.
> 
> I will post pics of this beast when it is done.


Awesome! Those laminated beams would be plenty strong. When I built mine, I took into account the weight I wanted it to be at, so that moving it wouldn't be too difficult. I have two caster wheels on the back end and feet in the front. I just tilt it up on its casters and roll it out of the way when not in use.



T3RMNTR said:


> Well done - nice project! I'm planning to build one. Thanks for posting it.
> How are you recovering from hurricane Sandy? Power on? Hopefully things getting back to normal?


Thanks. I'm pretty much recovered from Sandy, but getting gas right now is a pain in the ass. It's gotten better, but it's still at least an hour wait in line.


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

great project!


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## mystic1219 (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks for all the pics and info. Really like what you have done. Would love to see a video of you shooting off it when you get time.


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

mystic1219 said:


> Thanks for all the pics and info. Really like what you have done. Would love to see a video of you shooting off it when you get time.


I apologize to everyone that I have not had the time to make the video yet. What with school and the hurricane and the nor'easter, it's been tough playing catch-up with everything. The hurricane really did a number on things around here and it's a week of time I'll never get back. There's only 5 more weeks of school. I should have time to make the video after that.


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## MTNMAN5C (Oct 2, 2007)

Ttt for later! Great idea

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2


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## droppixel (Nov 5, 2010)

Got my scale, just need to fetch the extra components now. Head to harbor freight for a winch and get some basic framing materials at home depot and should be good to go.


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## alaskariverguy (Nov 25, 2008)

For a name how about LIPS = Long Island pro shop


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

alaskariverguy said:


> For a name how about LIPS = Long Island pro shop


LIPS Service, even.


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## doverpack12 (May 19, 2010)

I had an idea and plan on modifying my draw board to be similar to yours. I would like to add a piece of unistrut that can be added and removed easily so i can use it to tension my string and cables for measuring. Not sure what the best way to do this would be but i am planning on using the winch and scale on one end. Sorry if i'm off topic.


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

doverpack12 said:


> I had an idea and plan on modifying my draw board to be similar to yours. I would like to add a piece of unistrut that can be added and removed easily so i can use it to tension my string and cables for measuring. Not sure what the best way to do this would be but i am planning on using the winch and scale on one end. Sorry if i'm off topic.


That's a great idea. When I get some money, I'm going to buy me a Little Jon string jig and mount the unistrut right along the top of the 2x6. It shouldn't interfere with the shooter or drawboard functions.


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## kdog23 (Jan 30, 2012)

this is cool. I will have to build something similar. probably just the draw board and not the shooter for me so far.


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## buckman2591 (Feb 6, 2011)

LIA, you were seriously just reading my mind. I was getting ready to start a thread asking for insight on a draw board and your build along hit it to a T. Your spine tester was also another one I appreciate, as I have already built one for a friend and one for personal use.


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## buckman2591 (Feb 6, 2011)

LiA, can you post part numbers from your lowes receipts?


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## Hang 'em High (Feb 16, 2011)

Great thread


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## JRC24 (Jul 24, 2007)

ttt, subscribed. Thanks for the instructions.


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## Don Schultz (Jul 5, 2002)

I really like your original design w' the winch on the other side. Think I'll adapt a pulley and remount my winch.


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

buckman2591 said:


> LiA, can you post part numbers from your lowes receipts?


I don't have part numbers from Lowe's - they've all been turned to ash in my chiminea.


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## bullsi (Jan 18, 2006)

Great thread, thanks for sharing your ideas.


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## Ericdba (Jun 28, 2011)

Well I broke down and built a draw board. Thanks for all the info you guys supplied.Mine is pretty basic the only difference is the bowholder that i put on in front of my post. It's made from 2" pvc that I cut heated and bent to the shape I was looking for.


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## 07commander (Dec 22, 2010)

L.I.Archer said:


> It's plenty heavy. It's got a 2x6 x 5ft. long mainboard (about 8 lbs), a 5 lb piece of angle iron on top, a winch that weighs about 10 lbs, 2x4 legs and base (about 20 lbs), various screws & bolts, miscellaneous parts, etc. The thing is one 2 lockable casters in the back and wooden feet in front. This shooting machine isn't budging.
> 
> 
> Have you shot it yet?? Just curious. I built one out of 1 1/2 " square steel tubing welded together, thinking it would be plenty heavy enough. It wasn't. It weighed around 50#, and would slowly creep around on the floor. I had to hang a 100# weight on the frame. Also, I think your not going to want the casters on it.
> Looks like it could work, but may take some refinement. Just my opinion.


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

07commander said:


> L.I.Archer said:
> 
> 
> > It's plenty heavy. It's got a 2x6 x 5ft. long mainboard (about 8 lbs), a 5 lb piece of angle iron on top, a winch that weighs about 10 lbs, 2x4 legs and base (about 20 lbs), various screws & bolts, miscellaneous parts, etc. The thing is one 2 lockable casters in the back and wooden feet in front. This shooting machine isn't budging.
> ...


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## 07commander (Dec 22, 2010)

Glad to hear its working good for you. Still fine tuning mine. Working on a better way of holding the release so it doesn't flex sideways while triggering it.


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

07commander said:


> Glad to hear its working good for you. Still fine tuning mine. Working on a better way of holding the release so it doesn't flex sideways while triggering it.


What I'd like to do with the release is install a remote trigger like the ones used on cameras - push the plunger and it will trip the trigger.


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## 07commander (Dec 22, 2010)

That is what I am going to do also.


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## HOLDFASTHANK (Jan 27, 2013)

this looks like a fuuuuun project. cant wait to get it started


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## 25ft-up (Mar 14, 2010)

07commander said:


> Glad to hear its working good for you. Still fine tuning mine. Working on a better way of holding the release so it doesn't flex sideways while triggering it.


What if you tried turning the trigger toward the rail side, then size a block to fit between the trigger and rail to hold it in place? Or use the same idea, and shape some flat steel into a brace with a slot cut in it for the trigger to pass through, and permanently attach the brace to the release. If you want to get fancy, make a guide for it to ride on on the rail.


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

25ft-up said:


> What if you tried turning the trigger toward the rail side, then size a block to fit between the trigger and rail to hold it in place? Or use the same idea, and shape some flat steel into a brace with a slot cut in it for the trigger to pass through, and permanently attach the brace to the release. If you want to get fancy, make a guide for it to ride on on the rail.


No need to get that fancy. A remote trigger switch is just an idea I have rattling around in my head. The way it is now works just fine if you pull the trigger straight back. I've paper tuned many a bow using this method. This was a fun project. I just wish I could post the design sketches I have here on my computer for all of you, but AT's not letting me for some reason. Does anyone know the size of the file allowed? Each one of my sketches are about 2 MB in size.


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## 25ft-up (Mar 14, 2010)

L.I.Archer said:


> No need to get that fancy. A remote trigger switch is just an idea I have rattling around in my head. The way it is now works just fine if you pull the trigger straight back. I've paper tuned many a bow using this method. This was a fun project. I just wish I could post the design sketches I have here on my computer for all of you, but AT's not letting me for some reason. Does anyone know the size of the file allowed? Each one of my sketches are about 2 MB in size.


I resize to about 1000 pixels on the longer width and it works, or upload to flickr or photobucket then copy and paste image.
I've got to build one of these.


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## 07commander (Dec 22, 2010)

25ft-up said:


> What if you tried turning the trigger toward the rail side, then size a block to fit between the trigger and rail to hold it in place? Or use the same idea, and shape some flat steel into a brace with a slot cut in it for the trigger to pass through, and permanently attach the brace to the release. If you want to get fancy, make a guide for it to ride on on the rail.[/QUOT
> 
> The slide is what I am in the process of putting on mine. Mine is 1.5 " square steel tubing and I am making a slide that rolls on ball bearings and will hold the release. Then trigger with a cable.


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## 25ft-up (Mar 14, 2010)

07commander said:


> 25ft-up said:
> 
> 
> > What if you tried turning the trigger toward the rail side, then size a block to fit between the trigger and rail to hold it in place? Or use the same idea, and shape some flat steel into a brace with a slot cut in it for the trigger to pass through, and permanently attach the brace to the release. If you want to get fancy, make a guide for it to ride on on the rail.[/QUOT
> ...


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## 6xsteelers (Sep 6, 2009)

Very nice and thanks for the pics and info, :thumbs_up


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## GrayTech (Jan 29, 2013)

This is an awesome build! I will be using some of your great ideas when I build myself one. 
Thanks for posting it all and sharing so graciously.


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## highlander4 (Dec 26, 2009)

How do you know where to put the measuring stick? AT the front of the grip or the back of the grip??? so you can determine draw length.


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

highlander4 said:


> How do you know where to put the measuring stick? AT the front of the grip or the back of the grip??? so you can determine draw length.


The back of the grip plus 1.75".


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## dgmeadows (Jun 15, 2005)

L.I.Archer said:


> The back of the grip plus 1.75".


Or in other words mount the yardstick where 1.75" is at the back of the grip.


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## highlander4 (Dec 26, 2009)

Ok thanks!


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## OhioHoytHunter (Aug 4, 2009)

Great builds! Gives me a lot of ideas. Thank you.


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## lc12 (Jul 30, 2009)

Hey L.I.Archer.
Your wish is my command!


























You all need to thank L.I.Archer for his sketches!
I just posted his pics for him.


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## benny t (Feb 5, 2008)

In the second pic on first page the winch is on the other side of drawboard. what did you use as a guide to go around to the other side and does it add wear to rope? I thought about using rollers, like you see on boat trailers only smaller. this is going to be my first try at building a drawboard. I was wondering what everyone thinks about using rollers so it doesn't wear rope out. I thinking of using I screws in front of rollers on each side and just a roller on the end of board. thanks


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

benny t said:


> In the second pic on first page the winch is on the other side of drawboard. what did you use as a guide to go around to the other side and does it add wear to rope? I thought about using rollers, like you see on boat trailers only smaller. this is going to be my first try at building a drawboard. I was wondering what everyone thinks about using rollers so it doesn't wear rope out. I thinking of using I screws in front of rollers on each side and just a roller on the end of board. thanks


I used the second eyelet from a gate hinge, which is the same one I use in the later pictures guiding the rope on the same side of the winch. It has no gaps in the eye, so it won't cut into the rope. But then, I discovered the extra stress on the rope from going around, and I didn't bother trying to run a pulley around the 2x6, so I just opted to go the straight route.


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

shaffer88 said:


> When do you grad. fyi if school has not told you yet study for that nclex, and take a kaplan course. Good luck need to post to come back to it
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2


I just got my acceptance letter into the nursing program for this fall. Gonna be another 2-1/2 years before I graduate.


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## Wapiti06 (Sep 4, 2006)

Great design for your draw board. Good luck with your schooling!!


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## redbone311 (Sep 6, 2010)

Tag - I love this


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## JPR79 (May 18, 2010)

Great design... I wonder if you could just incorporate that into an all out archery bench. Draw board/shooter on one side, flat area top to work on stuff, bow vise, etc.

Geez I need to get out of an apt and get a house.


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## archeryX (Jul 11, 2004)

really like your draw board.. building mine. while coping alot of your ideas.. great job and thx for posting it.


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## buckjunkey (Mar 22, 2010)

Great job! Tagged for later.


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

archeryX said:


> really like your draw board.. building mine. while coping alot of your ideas.. great job and thx for posting it.


Anytime.


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## Rollie83 (Jan 13, 2011)

Saved for later


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## jimmyk (Oct 14, 2007)

Same here, great job. Also, 2.5 yrs will pass before you know it, stay the course.


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

jimmyk said:


> Same here, great job. Also, 2.5 yrs will pass before you know it, stay the course.


Yeah. I'm almost done with the first semester of nursing school. 3 more to go, find a job, get job to pay for the bachelor's. LOL!!


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## Roo223 (Mar 7, 2013)

Nice project! Tag for later


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## shootabigun (Sep 13, 2012)

Later


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## Tony7781 (Sep 5, 2012)

subscribed. Need to build one after the holidays and I like this design


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## Tony7781 (Sep 5, 2012)

subscribed. Need to build one after the holidays and I like this design


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## bluestreaker (Apr 14, 2013)

Tagged, great stuff here.
Thanks L.I.Archer!!


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## shooter jon (Jan 20, 2012)

Tagged!!! Gonna hafta build one myself


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## War_Material (Jul 17, 2012)

Nice! Just saw this but i made mine very similar! Still looking for a cheap release to make it a shooter


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## Creefer17 (Oct 24, 2013)

Marked


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## L.I.Archer (Sep 6, 2010)

War_Material said:


> Nice! Just saw this but i made mine very similar! Still looking for a cheap release to make it a shooter


Nice!

I used a $20 Allen release: 
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/allen-caliper-release-w-pink-trim.html

Cabela's has a release that's made by Cobra that's pretty nice too: 
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Hunt...791680;cat104693580;cat104529780;cat103859280


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## Shortaxle (Apr 26, 2011)

That is an awesome job! Nice attention to detail!


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## MandK (Jul 29, 2013)

thanks for the ideas!


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## duckn (Jul 26, 2011)

Nice job dude,would like to see a video of it shooting..


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## Silverstar723 (Apr 30, 2012)

tagged looks awesome


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## bigblock534 (Aug 29, 2008)

Tag


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