# ATA tuning



## Strodav (Apr 25, 2012)

I put this together reading the various posts here on AT. Hope it helps. If someone sees any errors, please let me know.


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## RedbeardHD90 (Mar 3, 2013)

Thanks.. That's exactly what I was looking for.


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## JF from VA (Dec 5, 2002)

Thanks for taking the time to put this together and post it. Very useful.


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## b-a-maniak (Apr 19, 2014)

Finally, a decoder ring for all the N&B stuff. Great work. Thanks!


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## mightymite04 (Jan 14, 2015)

ata is ball park figure,brace height is closer then ball park figure, if you have draw board get draw length close(most of time 3/16 inch long or shorter) draw weight with in 3 pounds over,then work on timing or starting position depending on cam type. If you do have draw board i highly suggest having it set up to check nock travel,Don't need it perfect but you will be able to tell what the sweet spot is. If it is a aggressive single cam with small idler on top you have few options depending on make usually i max both limbs bolts then take one turn out of bottom limb. get bottom cam starting rotation close measure specs.I get real close to correct brace height,check draw length. Then i take another half turn out of bottom limb bolt.(keep top limb at max)gets you around 67 pounds draw weight when done.Check nock travel if you get within 3/16 inch from bow at rest to nock point drop. shoot away. I am bowtech infinatiy cam groupie. Any other single cam with decent size idler wheel i would start with only half turn out on bottom limb bolt then get to spec. When checking nock travel on single cam only adjust limb bolts 1/4 turn at time,try top and bottom until perfection.04-05 bowtech (3/16 inch travel from bow at rest till lowest point in draw) might not seem great but let me tell you they are a completely different bow. Same method for a lot of single cam bows.Draw cycle smooth,back wall solid but not rip your arm off if you creep small amount.That bottom limb kick gone. Single cams are different animals but they have more adjustability then people know.Always amazed me when people say arrow points down hill at full draw. Set them up with "even tiller" and there is a difference of 3/8" to half inch just from bow at brace to low point of nock at draw,then arrow comes up another 1 inch or more at full draw.(depends on module) hint. Also make.Goal with single cam is to keep nock travel from bow at brace to nocking point low during draw as close as possible. That is super tuning a single cam. You can also play with starting position on cam but that is more in depth. If you love a whisker biscuit like i do for hunting then this method is what to try. Great rest needs a semi decent nock travel and better then average form to show off to the drop away crowd. Yes they are more accurate then the shooter and just as accurate as drop aways. Another topic to talk about someday.If yours cams are hybrids or dual cams or whatever the new cam systems are called then nuts and bolts will be the way to go. If you try it let me know results.


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## MuddMotorDD (Jan 17, 2015)

Tag for the chart thanks Strodav its just what I was looking for!


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## TRUE HUNT (Nov 8, 2006)

Awesome info on this Thread. Keep in mind a lot of tuners/shooters I've talked too say draw length, poundage and tiller are key factors for tuning. Still keep in mind of the other things but if it's close let it go and go enjoy shooting.


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## trackboss (Feb 16, 2010)

Strodave, I have been reading for hours and hours as well as looking at videos, etc. trying to educate myself on tuning the hoyt cam system (I shoot a faktor turbo). Everything I have read says that shortening the buss cable advances the top cam/******s the bottom and vice-versa. From what I gather, the buss is a coarser adjustment than the control cable in terms of adjusting cam timing, and shortening the control cable has the opposite effect on the top cam than does shortening the buss. Is there a mistake in your chart? 
Had I discovered your chart before I started learning this cam system it would have saved me a ton of frustration, but I want to make sure it is right before I use it. 
Can you please comment?
thanks,
-V


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## Strodav (Apr 25, 2012)

I am at a disadvantage right now as most of my archery gear including my main computer is at my new house in Texas and I'm here in Illinois prepping the house to sell, but I do have my Alpha Elite in my lap. While the string and cable settings all interact, each one has a major affect, then minor effects. The buss cable is the main control of ATA, which is a surrogate for draw weight. The bow is designed so that if the ATA is somewhere near right and the draw length is somewhere near right, the draw weight will be somewhere near right and the initial timing of the lower cam will be somewhere near right. If I shorten the buss cable, I move the lower draw stop further away from it's full draw stop position while increasing the draw weight. To me that's moving the cam back or ******ing the cam. If you lengthen the buss cable the bottom cam stop moves closer to it's full draw stop position while decreasing the draw weight. To me, that's moving the cam forward or advancing the cam. You can see this by putting you bow in you lap and pulling the buss cable a bit toward the riser simulating shortening the cable. I believe that's consistent with your post on what happens to the bottom cam when you shorten or lengthen the buss cable.

When the bottom cam moves back by shortening the buss cable the control cable pulls just a bit harder on the top cam moving the top cam stop away from it's final full draw stop position, but the effect is small. Again, to me that's moving the cam back or ******ing the cam. I believe this is where we disagree. I wish I had my press here so I could test it, but I don't right now. I can tell you I got it off of posts here on AT, mainly reading and re-reading quite of few of Nuts&Bolts posts. It's important to note that while twisting the control cable will slightly decrease ATA, hence increase draw weight, that's not where it has it's major effect, which is to change the sync between the two cams by moving the top cam forward or back, hopefully matching it to the bottom cam, give or take.

From a practical standpoint, whenever you shorten or lengthen the buss cable, you should recheck the cam sync. On my next trip to Texas, I'll see if I can get my bow press out of a box and check it. If I've got it wrong, I'll repost the table. In the mean time, maybe someone can explain where my logic is wrong.


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## Spur chaser (Jan 6, 2014)

Trackboss, I had the same findings on my nitrum 34. Top cam was way short of hitting when my bottom cam was. I talked to a local pro and was told to put twist in the control cable, made it worse. I took 4 1/2 twist out before they were both hitting at the same time. Now my problem is the ata is off, 33 3/8" but brace is very close. My question to whomever wants to answer is. Which is the most important when it comes to being properly tuned, the ata or brace height?


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## drewbaby88 (Jul 13, 2012)

Spur chaser said:


> Trackboss, I had the same findings on my nitrum 34. Top cam was way short of hitting when my bottom cam was. I talked to a local pro and was told to put twist in the control cable, made it worse. I took 4 1/2 twist out before they were both hitting at the same time. Now my problem is the ata is off, 33 3/8" but brace is very close. My question to whomever wants to answer is. Which is the most important when it comes to being properly tuned, the ata or brace height?


Bump for an answer

My bow is exactly like yours was. Top cam stop was1/2" - 3/4" from stop when bottom was just touching. Brace height is perfect and ATA is 1/4"-3/8" too short. 

This is the link to my thread I started with the same problem. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2856618


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