# My new 38 dollar arrow saw



## Team4STA

The mini grinder was 24.00 and the cutoff wheel was 1.99 and the Strait line clamp was 12.00. It works beautifully.!!!


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## Team4STA

The clamp is used to run a skill saw along. I removed several parts from it but left the Stop. With the pinch of a finger it can be moved anywhere along the track, and when released it stays put!


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## Team4STA

I still have to attach the ruler to the front side for accurate measurements. I added a reference guide to the side for the ruler using a mirror stay. The ruler will be attached under the guide.


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## sman750

Can you give a part number or tell where you got the straight line clamp I like this set up, Great job!


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## Team4STA

Every thing was from harbor freight


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## Team4STA

The Clamp was with all of the other long clamps. It comes in 24, 36, and 48'' lengths. This one is 36


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## Team4STA

Thank you for the compliment. If you notice the arrow reliever is red. This part was cut from a piece of the clamp that wasn't used and then attached to the stop.


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## Team4STA

A spacer is needed under the track to get it the right height. The spacer needs to be 1 and 1/8 inch tall. I used a wood dowel that I had laying around, however you can use PVC or similar.


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## MikeR

Thanks for the great idea!


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## yard-dart2

How do you traverse the arrow shaft across the cutting wheel? Does the grinder w/cutting wheel move? If you feed the shaft into the wheel manually does it give you a square cut?


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## b0w_bender

Now that's using your Noggin!

Good post thanks for Sharing!


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## turkeybuster

Great job i'm going to have to make me one!!:77:you the man


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## Team4STA

It cuts just like the professional ones. Rotate the arrow shaft against the Cut wheel. Takes about 2 seconds per arrow and is a PERFECTLY STRAIT cut.


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## jinxliveson

Good Job! I like this alot.


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## rossguy27

very nice.....subscribing to this!


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## Bownut400

That's the best idea for a while, thanks


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## jbuhr

great idea i was there today looking to build the same thing only with the 3in "chop saw" they had for $25, i thought it would give it a more true cut and it had a small vice to clamp the arrows in to make sure it was square


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## Tunaboy

I have a regular arrow saw and have always looked at the other home made arrow saw made with a different type of saw from HF and thought that it was marginal at best. This looks like a much better option and would probably build one if I didn't already have a saw. Good work. AT has the best DYI guys on the planet.


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## Mizzu_hunter

Sweet rid. Thanks for sharing with the rest of us.


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## shortstick28

Can't seem to find the clamp on their website. do you have a part number on the clamp ?


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## Team4STA

I will get the part number tomorrow and post it


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## ohiobullseye

I like it, I will have to try to make one.:thumb:


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## caspian

infinitely better than the "chop saw" method. nicely done. the tailstock is particularly convenient.


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## Gary Wiant

any part number for the clamp yet?

Thanks


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## Monarch3

Great job!!!

I can't find the clamp either, and the only 3" wheels I find on their website are for 3/8 arbor, and the mini grinder has 1/2 arbor? What did you do?

Thanks for the great idea!


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## dadamsjr

awesome idea gonna make one today, i bought a 5 inch grinder for making knifes last week so now time for a straight line clamp!!! thanks for the idea!


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## Thatmichhunter

looks like I will be making a HF trip! Great set-up!


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## kcadstudent

Gary

I ve been waiting to hear about the clamp too since I couldnt find it by what he had called it. but I think this is it:

24" Clamp and Cut Edge Guide
http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66126.html

He did say his was a 36" but I can only find the 24" on their website, maybe they have other sizes in their store. but from the pictures, this i what I think it is.


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## Sethybaby

kcadstudent said:


> Gary
> 
> I ve been waiting to hear about the clamp too since I couldnt find it by what he had called it. but I think this is it:
> 
> 24" Clamp and Cut Edge Guide
> http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66126.html
> 
> He did say his was a 36" but I can only find the 24" on their website, maybe they have other sizes in their store. but from the pictures, this i what I think it is.


That's it guys, just look on the shelf for the 36" one.
When you get it, take the cotter pin out of the handle and everything slides apart.


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## Sethybaby

This is it now.


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## dyledog

jbuhr said:


> great idea i was there today looking to build the same thing only with the 3in "chop saw" they had for $25, i thought it would give it a more true cut and it had a small vice to clamp the arrows in to make sure it was square


i bought this saw your talking about and put a mini cut off wheel on it. dont waste the money. the saw does not have enough a** to cut the arrow without bogging down. it works just not that great. you burn the arrow instead of cutting and if you go to fast it splinters. i put tape on the arrow where i plan on cutting and it helps. hope this helps. spend alittle more money and save alot of headache.


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## dyledog

oh and the clamp doesnt help as much as you think. because the saw bogs, you have to spin the arrow to keep it from splinterring. tested several different ways and spinning helps the best. you still have to true up the cut with a stone when youree done.


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## jrdrees

To be fair you're supposed to spin arrows as you cut them, regardless of the saw you use. This will give you a square cut, of course if you're real neurotic like me you can check with an Arrow Squaring Device by G5, or make one!!


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## turkeybuster

the 24 inch clamp will work also, it just won't run all the way up to the grinder, your still going to have 24 inches of adjustment.


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## Gates

Dam Mcgyver.....Subscribed


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## harvick_29_01

Yeah i'm having the same problem finding a cutoff wheel with a 1/2" arbor... How did you retro fit it???


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## Gary Wiant

sounds good, what about the cut off wheel? I will have to order on-line so I need to have PN/ if at all possible

Thanks guys


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## ~Spot-Hogg-1~

Thanks, awesome idea.


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## Sethybaby

...........|| ....||
===DDD||DDD||NUT DDD= Collar
...........|| ... ||

Change it to This:
.................|| ||
===DDD DDD|| ||NUT 
.................|| ||

That still leaves you with a 3/8" arbor on a 1/4" shaft. but with the two big locking rings and -3k RPMs it's not a big deal, or, you can order this:
http://www.google.com/products/cata...=X&ei=O7eATYmIHIyy0QHoo82KCQ&ved=0CCYQ8wIwAg#


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## Sethybaby

harvick_29_01 said:


> Yeah i'm having the same problem finding a cutoff wheel with a 1/2" arbor... How did you retro fit it???


^ 
That post got botched up. I hate forum software. 

Get the 3/8" arbor blades:
http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-5-3-inch-metal-cutting-discs-66393.html

When you take the grinding wheel off the grinder it looks like This:
...........|| ....||
===DDD||DDD||NUT DDD= Collar
...........|| ... ||

Change it to This:
.................|| ||
===DDD DDD|| ||NUT 
.................|| ||

That still leaves you with a 3/8" arbor on a 1/4" shaft. but with the two big locking rings and -3k RPMs it's not a big deal, or, you can order this:
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CCYQ8wIwAg#


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## Sethybaby




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## caspian

jrdrees said:


> To be fair you're supposed to spin arrows as you cut them, regardless of the saw you use. This will give you a square cut


... which is precisely why I hate the "chop saw" cutters.


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## lungbustn

very good idea going to harbor freight this weekend.


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## Team4STA

http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66126.html 
This is it. It comes in 24 36 48 and I even saw one that was 60 inches.
My son posted the pic above....I decided to give it a good paint job. I also replaced the wood dowel supports with PVC. There will be a tape rule on the side of the track. Delta tools makes an adhesive one for $2.99 .


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## Team4STA

If you want more RPM's , Harbor freight has a mini grinder with a 10,000 rpm variable speed motor for 34.00. However if you spin the arrows just as you would on the professional saw...It DOES NOT 
Bog down. I will make a video of it being used and Post it.


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## Chimeng

Awesome. Going to make one similar to it this weekend.


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## chasemukluk

Ok, very nice...any video out there yet?

Thanks!


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## oldschoolcj5

nice setup!


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## Hunter Dave

Nice rig! All you need to add is some sort of vacuum cleaner attachment to catch the dust.


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## treeslinger2

Thanks!!
That clamp is my answer to how to adapt my Dremel Tool to be an arrow saw.


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## esellktm

Now I have an excuxe to go to Harbor Freight tomorrow.....Like I needed one!


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## carlosii

Monarch3 said:


> Great job!!!
> 
> I can't find the clamp either, and the only 3" wheels I find on their website are for 3/8 arbor, and the mini grinder has 1/2 arbor? What did you do?
> 
> Thanks for the great idea!


I'm in the same boat. Bought the grinder but the only cutting wheels have the 3/8 arbor and the grinder is 1/2. What did you do?


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## Team4STA

Sorry , just got back in town and didnt make the video yet. Leaving tomorrow night for Paris Texas for the Delta Pro-Am. Ill try to do the video on Tuesday.


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## buckhead

If you had the choice wouldn't you want the high speed motor anyway?

I always thought they recommended a high speed motor for carbon shafts?


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## jmohunts

I would think that u would be better using a dremel like cut off tool, My Dremmel spins at up to 30,000 rpm, not sure what a Harbor Freight rotary tool will cost u, but Im going to use the rest of the set up and use my Demel


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## Team4STA

I haven't had any issues with the speed so far. In Fact I cut acc's with it on Friday very easily. I think that a faster speed is recommended (10,000 rpm's ). If i build another one i will use the faster one. Still, i have not had a single issue with this one. I love it.


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## foambeetle

sweet idea - looking forward to the video


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## foambeetle

ttt

anyone have any pics they'd be willing to post using this 'clamp' with a 'dremmel-type' set-up?


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## RatherBArchery

Harbor freight has all kinds of saws that could be used!! They had a dremmel type unit that had a foot control, now that would be the ticket. Didn't investigate it yet but if it spins fast enough I an sure it would cut without problems.


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## DXT122

looks pretty good I might look into building one myself


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## 808Hybrid

I wish there was a harbor freight in Hawaii..
I'm ordering the parts for sure..
Thanks for sharing..


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## TailWalk

Arrow Saw manufacturers will hate you, HF Tools will love you. I will build one myself using my Dremel tool. Thanks for sharing.


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## foambeetle

This idea inspired me - really glad you thought of this and posted! Finally put together a nifty set-up with this clamp and a rotary tool last night. Still need to put some finishing touches on it, but with a few test cuts on an old carbon shaft last night it is going to do the trick quite nicely. Here's what I've got into it:

"Professional 4-Speed Rotary Tool" - on sale - $17.99 (Harbor Freight)
"The Clamp" (the 24" one) - on sale - $9.99 (Harbor Freight)
Aluminum Measuring Stick - on sale - $1.99 (Harbor Freight)
Rotary cutting disc - diamond (set of 5) - on sale - $4.99 (Harbor Freight)
U-bolts to hold Rotary Tool - $2.50 (hardware store)
Some wood and screws already on hand - $0
TOTAL: +/- $37.50

So, yep, it can be done for right around $38 (and in just a little over an hour, not including the shopping part)!! 

Thanks again for posting.


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## treeslinger2

Hey foambeetle that sounds good.
How about some pics of your adaptation??


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## foambeetle

*rotary tool version . . .*

Here you go (the arrow in the pic is super short b/c I've been trimming it down doing trial and error, and the gray vacuum attachment is for sucking up carbon dust). . . I'm still tweaking a few things here and there.

The little 'block' near the cutter is a small piece of wood w/ a large binder clip secured over the top . . . the slight dish in the top of the binder clip works pretty good for a nice place to smoothly rotate the shaft.

I am thinking about maybe trying an adhesive measuring tape on the side of the clamp/track or instead I may add a pointer/indicator so that there is a more positive reference for any given measurement.

It is going to really work nicely for my purposes and so far I'm getting nice clean cuts. A little touch of the G5 ASD and the shafts are good to go.


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## Pure_Archery

so when are u going to start marketing the saw. i fgure u could get 109.95 out of it. thats a great profit margin.


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## foambeetle

I shortened the "nock receiver" (more like, I think, what Team4STA did) and added a shortened popsicle stick with some hot glue for a better reference when measuring.


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## Team4STA

foambeetle...Love your adaptation. And i like the idea of a vacuum on it. I will definitely be doing that. On thing that I have noticed is that there is an awful lot of carbon dust.


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## TailWalk

*Way cool!*

:thumbs_up


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## Chris Roe

AWESOME!!!!!

Question: Do you have enough clearance between the cutoff wheel and the Dremmel tool BODY to make one cut on a full length shaft to cut it down to your desired length or do you need to "whittle" at it to get it down short enough for clearance?

...not that that matters to me! ...I'm gonna have to build one - just because - and see how that compares to the "real one" I bought last year!

Nice job guys!!!!

Chris


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## Hana Pa'a

Team4STA said:


> Thank you for the compliment. If you notice the arrow reliever is red. This part was cut from a piece of the clamp that wasn't used and then attached to the stop.



How did you do this part? I purchased a clamp this weekend and want to make one but I am not sure how you made this or attached it to the clamp.

Thanks


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## foambeetle

Thanks, Chris.

Re: "whittle" cuts . . . 

I guess it all depends on your desired length . . . I am taking 32" down to 31" and I only had to make one cut, but . . . yes, intermediate cuts are necessary for getting to shorter lengths b/c of the body of the rotary tool. I cut a dz. shafts over the weekend and they hardly (if at all, but I touched them up anyway to be sure) needed any "squaring" on the ASD.


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## ryanws87

Nice build man, thats awesome.


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## bloodtrail1

Just bought the goodies at Harbor Frieght to make mine!


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## DHoovler

I think I might build one of these this weekend!:set1_applaud::set1_applaud:


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## bloodtrail1

What did you guys use then for your nock receiver?
Did you take a nock turning tool that comes with some nocks and insert that in the space once you removed the part that the track slide comes with?


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## foambeetle

This is what I did . . . 

I took the red piece out of the clamp assembly - it should "pop" out of the gray portion of the clamp assembly - and cut it down carefully to leave behind only the red "tube" portion (closed on one end, open on the other). You can see in my first pic that it is full-length, but then I cut it shorter so that the depth of it would line a nock up nicely for measurements. It "press-fits" (a person could glue it, I guess) back into the gray portion quite nicely. I used the popsicle stick piece to support it - and this way I did not need to glue it, in case I need (decide) to change it out for whatever reason in the future. It is pretty sturdy and working fine as it is, so I don't think I'll be changing it.

Hope that helps - have fun building your saws, guys. It was great of Team4STA to post the idea of using this clamp!


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## Team4STA

Thanks....Its so exciting to see all of the interest in this project. Mine gets a lot of use. On th nock receiver mine is screwed in on the inside of the receiver. You really should cut down the length of it or else on some arrows it will catch the edge of the arrows.


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## THE BULL

great idea...gonna have to try it


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## Team4STA

let me know how your builds turn out.


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## swhipple

Just found this thread. Nice design and build:thumbs_up Looks like another trip to Harbor freight for me.


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## Team4STA

thank you


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## buckman2591

nice rig of a saw you got there!


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## Team4STA

thanks...easy to build and easy to use.


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## DHoovler

I've been putting this off way too long. I just picked up the grinder today and I'm surprised how quiet it is. No more excuses. It will be built by the end of the holiday weekend!


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## Ghost23

I was reading this thread and looking at pics. Maybe you could take a small key chain type retractable tape measure and attach the zero end flush with the cutting edge. Then take the body of the tape measure and attach it to the sliding clamp. That way its closer to the shaft, retractable, and just innovative for a DIY'er.


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## huntnfishnut

Purchased the supplies last night...


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## huntnfishnut

Trying to put the 3" cutoff wheel on the 10000 rpm grinder. Too much gap and the wheel will not go past the threads onto the smooth part of the shaft. Anyone else use this motor? I suppose I can find a collar to extend out that far but that would still not be ideal.

Never mind, figured it out. Realized just needed another nut than what was provided


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## Ayastigi

Man that's a great looking saw. I just enginered a cut off arrow saw myself. I removed the Weston 8,000 rpm motor and got a small miter saw from the same store. Works nice and cost a grand total of $24 to put me back in business.


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## Team4STA

Awesome


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## fiftyincher

Here's my adaptation. I had everything around so I spent a grand total of $12 for the clamp. I took a few pics of the process in case anyone was interested.

Push the pin out to remove the handle








Pull handle off the rod








Pull end of clamp off








Pull red piece off








Cut nock receiver from red piece








While I was at it I just cut the top off the gray piece so I could use is to hold the rod in place








Push nock receiver into adjustable end of clamp. I cut my test arrow without using a nock as it rolls smoother for me.








I used a solder gun to cut off the top of the red piece to use as an arrow rest next to the blade and sanded it smooth. Used the gray bottom to attach it to the board.








Mounted the dremel with zip ties, u bolts would be nice but I had none. Then I lined up the clamp and rest so the blade would only cut the arrow wall. Screwed clamp to board.








Finished cut, dremel set around half speed.


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## foambeetle

fiftyincher - good adaptation and pic sequence:thumbs_up


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## dmgiss

Kool beans!! I like it alot!!


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## huyked

This is just too cool. I love the DIY section.


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## huntnfishnut

Maybe add some paint and dress it up a little. Used the 10000 rpm Harbor freight saw.


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## Team4STA

I love-em . Great job guys.


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## Bongos

Thanks guys for the inspiration, just finished making mine


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## lavazhole

Post so I can find this in a few weeks!


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## arrowshooters

Love this idea and adapted to my current mini chopsaw setup. I am taking it one step further to smooth out the spinning of the arrow. Still in progress but you get the idea.


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## droppixel

Been wanting to do one of these for a while, what are you all doing to bring the shaft to the blades? Trying to picture how you would have the blade running at full rpm and then bring the shaft into it and be able to get a spin on it.


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## kcf1969

OK, school me on why the grinder is better than a 2" cutoff "chop saw". Seems like your angling the arrow shaft at the knock and rotating the arrow into the grider "saw" blade. This casuses an arc, all be it a small arc, but not a square cut like a vertical cut off saw. Or am I missing something?


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## droppixel

kcf1969 said:


> OK, school me on why the grinder is better than a 2" cutoff "chop saw". Seems like your angling the arrow shaft at the knock and rotating the arrow into the grider "saw" blade. This casuses an arc, all be it a small arc, but not a square cut like a vertical cut off saw. Or am I missing something?


I think it would cause an initial arc, but as you spin the shaft with the cut it squares itself out. I've got a few ideas on putting one together, but want to get my hands on some old shafts I can chop up for testing prior to taking my nice ones to it.


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## Bucks

very clean! great job


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## 1stRockinArcher

*How about this for the track and arrow stop*

It looks like the track is in a routed out channel.
The only problem is I don't know where to get the track or the knob.
Any help identifying the track and knob would be appreciated.
I'm sure some of You DIY'ers knows what this track and knob are ??


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## redoaks

My DIY arrow saw take off the original posters... Thanks BTW, great ideas. I need to add one more thing to mine and it will be complete. 
Works great as it is, but I feel I can make it a little better still.


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## benamen

1stRockinArcher said:


> It looks like the track is in a routed out channel.
> The only problem is I don't know where to get the track or the knob.
> Any help identifying the track and knob would be appreciated.
> I'm sure some of You DIY'ers knows what this track and knob are ??


Lee valley sells all that under woodworking then jig and fixture. Not sure if their prices are the best butthey usually have quality components.


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## andy_camping

Rockler Woodworking sells those things also.


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## retrieverfishin

Great saw ideas guys, going to build one this weekend!


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## pbusanga

kcf1969 said:


> OK, school me on why the grinder is better than a 2" cutoff "chop saw". Seems like your angling the arrow shaft at the knock and rotating the arrow into the grider "saw" blade. This casuses an arc, all be it a small arc, but not a square cut like a vertical cut off saw. Or am I missing something?


Exactly what i have been thinking...if you have to push the arrow shaft 'into' the grinder wheel...surely you are not square as the back of the arrow is fixed and the front is being pushed sideways..A system where the saw blade moves and the arrow stays in same place, supported at both ends (spinning of course) would give vertical cut


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## 1stRockinArcher

pbusanga said:


> Exactly what i have been thinking...if you have to push the arrow shaft 'into' the grinder wheel...surely you are not square as the back of the arrow is fixed and the front is being pushed sideways..A system where the saw blade moves and the arrow stays in same place, supported at both ends (spinning of course) would give vertical cut


I think that if it is lined up correctly that the nock end is in line with where the arrow path will finish, not with the edge of the cut off wheel but closer to the center of the abrasive on the cut off wheel, that way the cut on the side closest to the blade will actually be in front of where the blade cuts the side away from the wheel, this plus spinning the arrow is what makes it cut square, as you continue to push and turn the arrow into the cut off wheel, it will be grinding the end of the arrow square. That is why you use a grinding wheel, and not just a blade, that only cuts on the edge. 
All professional, or professionally made arrow saws (Apple) operate this way, the cut off wheel does not move.

If you look closely in the photo in post 105, it looks like the center line of the clamp where the arrow will be, lines up in the middle of the cut off wheel.

Now saying that, I have never had an arrow cut that was perfectly square, since I have been able to check with a squaring devise, either by moving the arrow into the cut off wheel the cut off wheel into the arrow.

I plan on building one of these in the near future, using a number of ideas from this thread, I plan on using a dremel with either a right angle attachment or the flex attachment to get the clearance to only make one cut, I plan to line mine up this way with the finish position of the arrow being in the center of the abrasive on the cut off wheel.


Just by .02


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## pbusanga

makes sense ^^^


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## andy_camping

Finally, here's my version. I have to thank all of you on this board that have shared your ideas. I've taken several great pieces and have adapted them to my saw. Works great, like many have said the only true drawback is the inability to cut really long sections of arrow at once. Three inches at a time is about the max. Works well with both carbon and aluminum.


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## 1stRockinArcher

^^^^^
I have thought about using a 90 degree attachment or the flex shaft to get more clearance.
What did you use for your nock receiver ?
How did you mount your T-Slot Track, looks like you have used multiple pieces of MDF to make the slot for the T-Slot Track, screwed to a backing board ?


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## andy_camping

The nock receiver is a modified spacer from between the bearings on a rollerblade wheel. Works like a charm. 

And yes, I just ripped the MDF twice and created a slot and screwed the track down. I don't currently own a router, otherwise I would have used that.


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## Rich D

Awesome, I have to make a trip to HF tomorrow, Thanks


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## justshutupnhunt

I definately need to make one of these,


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## anarchyhunter80

save


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## user_name

subscribed


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## skeet16

im in


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## rnfarley

Bumpitty bump bump bump...


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## gatt40

I'm making mine now. Except I bought the longer clamp and cut it to 36" since I couldn't find it in 36" at HF. I already had the mini bench top cut off saw I bought from them a few months ago, instead of using a mini grinder. For the arrow lenght measurment, I bought the adhesive backed rule that you can put on a fishing rod blank ( from Academy Sports ). Will mount everything to a board. This was a great DIY idea. Thanks


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## JParcher

Pretty impressive. Does the slide come with the clamp?


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## NoDeerInIowa

subscribed


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## 1stRockinArcher

Couldn't you use the 24" clamp ?
If you set the end closest to the saw/dremel blade at 12" you still have adjustment from 12" to 36"
Don't think there would be a need for anything less than 12", unless it would be a Xbow bolt, and I don't know about them.


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## whack em

I just got done making mine using a few ideas I saw on this thread. I based mine off of the rotary tool design, and borrowed the bearing idea for the nock's anchor point. I drilled out the clamp face, and JB welded the bearing in place. Once that was dry and set, I cut a brass nail and JB welded that across the bearing for the arrows nock. I took the other clamp face and drilled out one end, and then cut it down to use as the arrow rest near the dremel's cutting head. I then aligned this with the cutting wheel and clamp, and bolted this to the base. Once I measured, everything out, I screwed the clamp to the 1x6, taking extra care to ensure that all was square with the dremel and arrow rest. 
Now onto my lessons learned from this endeavor. First, is to be careful how tight your u-bolts are securing the rotary tool. I got a them a tad too tight, which crimped the windings in the dremel’s motor, causing it to freeze up - oops! Had to rip the dremel apart and fix it (it's still not 100%, but close enough for government work). Second was mounting the clamp to the base. The heads of the pan head screws that I had to fasten the clamp to the 1x6 were too tall for the clamp to ride over, so I had to move them to either end of the clamp. Third was when using the clamp face whole in it's original form (whole red part inserted in the gray piece). It wobbled a little when cutting arrows, causing me to put a lot more effort into squaring the face with the G5 ASD. I remedied this by putting a spring clamp over the "fingers" of the red portion of the clamp, and what I thought would be just a band-aid worked like a champ. I hope this helps those that follow, and to those that precede, thanks for the great idea!


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## Macstrange

I love this. Shouldn't there be a guide fence for the shaft to back up against to insure a square cut though?
Thanks for the post. I've been thinking about building a shaft saw and this looks like the one.
Shawn


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## 2robinhood

sub


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## ruffme

ttt for arrow saw ideas...this thread seems to have the best ideas...


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## SixtySpot

What is the orange piece that everyone is using where their arrow nock goes?


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## Ziman

Thanks for sharing thats a great idea. Great job!


----------



## Bengland25

Alright, so I am planning on making an Arrow saw with the equipment from Harbor Freight and use my Dremel as the saw. I have never cut arrows before and I am fairly new to archery as well. Can someone post the process of using one of these homemade saws? just set the nock into the catch on the clamp and slowly move it into the saw or what? Thanks!


----------



## carlosii

Bengland25 said:


> Alright, so I am planning on making an Arrow saw with the equipment from Harbor Freight and use my Dremel as the saw. I have never cut arrows before and I am fairly new to archery as well. Can someone post the process of using one of these homemade saws? just set the nock into the catch on the clamp and slowly move it into the saw or what? Thanks!


you need to rotate the shaft into the blade.


----------



## shields642

That's a sweet setup thanks for sharing


----------



## jason.sp

very cool.


----------



## Bengland25

carlosii said:


> you need to rotate the shaft into the blade.


You set the blade offset I assume, But how far? half way through the shaft or a quarter of the way? going to make mine this weekend with my dremel so all the info I can get before would be extremely helpful! thanks


----------



## L.I.Archer

It's nice and all, but I find that carbon dust will go flying everywhere without the vacuum attachment that a Weston or Apple saw comes with.


----------



## L.I.Archer

Team4STA said:


> The mini grinder was 24.00 and the cutoff wheel was 1.99 and the Strait line clamp was 12.00. It works beautifully.!!!


I just saw the specs on the mini-grinder. It's only 3450 rpm. That's not nearly fast enough (for me anyway), especially if you need to cut aluminum arrows (which I do for customers) on occasion. That's a very nice build though.


----------



## satchamo

Heres the one I made using a 24 inch clamp. Used it to cut a dozen fmj and there square as can be! Thanks for the great ideas guys

Sent from my MB860


----------



## carlosii

for those of you who used the harbor freight bench grinder, did you have any problem with the blade not running true? i centered the blade and i don't think that's the problem. it wobbles side to side, if you know what i mean. help! i can't get straight cuts if its gonna wobble.


----------



## Jasolis

Awesome idea!


----------



## possum0141

*I know this thread is old but,,,*



Sethybaby said:


> This is it now.


I am trying to make me one with the chop saw and so far its going good., question is how did you get everything square? So far mine looks like it will be square but thought you might have a simple way to do it. Thanks


----------



## possum0141

These are awsome ideas and very helpful.. I find a new thing to add to mine with every click of the mouse lol.. It should be ready to go soon.


----------



## carlosii

still having problems with the blade of the saw being somewhat wobbly, left to right. any suggestions?


----------



## Archer-Boy

I think you've got some manufacturing QC problems with your grinder. 
I like the dremel deisgn as you can use the dremel when the devise is not in use.
Awsome thread! Thanks.


----------



## carlosii

think i solved my run-out problem. i moved what i call the inner race from the grinder wheel to the outside of the cut off blade and things are looking much better. using g5 asd to square the shaft after cutting.

thanks again to the OP for this great idea.


----------



## sues

*Arrow saw*

I made mine from bits aluminum angle and channel and cheap trimmer


----------



## Blueberry_DLD

Are these available to buy?


----------



## bowhuntrmaniac

got my arrow saw done today usingmy dremel tool like satchamo and foambeetle did . It works great! thanks to all of you guys for the great idea! GREG


----------



## foambeetle

Re: carbon dust . . . that is why I did a vacuum attachment to mine; with it, I have little to no issue with carbon dust. I use a household vacuum that my wife "retired" and I claimed - so the price was right  

I just recently got done cutting up another dozen shafts with the same set-up in my pics above and it is still working like a champ. From what I can tell, I have little to no need for using the G5 ASD after cutting, but it does make for a very nice/clean finish prior to installing inserts so I continue to use it since I've got one.


----------



## carlosii

carlosii said:


> think i solved my run-out problem. i moved what i call the inner race from the grinder wheel to the outside of the cut off blade and things are looking much better. using g5 asd to square the shaft after cutting.
> 
> thanks again to the OP for this great idea.


the harbor freight grinder used in the original setup just hasn't worked out for me. the shaft does not run true. i checked a couple others at harbor freight and they have the same problem. 

i'm just glad i didn't spend any more money on it than i did. i can use it to sharpen old knives i guess. ukey:


----------



## hoghead4478

I like the books on the table best tho ..... The saw is nice too....


----------



## hominhc

You are sick!!!!


----------



## Thansen

very nice work


----------



## Cpnhgn_Kid

What cut off wheel/disc did you use?


----------



## basnbuks

Great ideas guys


Sent across the ocean in a beer bottle


----------



## 308ruger

How do you guys mount the dremel so that it is perfectly square? At $40 I think I would hold off on the g5 asd until I am sure it is needed.


----------



## L.I.Archer

308ruger said:


> How do you guys mount the dremel so that it is perfectly square? At $40 I think I would hold off on the g5 asd until I am sure it is needed.


The G5 tool is awesome. I've used it to square up all the arrows I put broadheads on, whether they were my own, or someone else's. It's worth the $40. I also only use the sanding side for both the carbon (before I install the inserts), and the inserts themselves, if they were put in before the carbon shaft was squared. The reason being there's more flat surface area for the aluminum insert to square up against, vs. the cutting blade side, where all it's going to do is track whatever angle the inserts at, and whatever imperfections is on the face, and not really square off the insert.


----------



## 308ruger

L.I.Archer said:


> The G5 tool is awesome. I've used it to square up all the arrows I put broadheads on, whether they were my own, or someone else's. It's worth the $40. I also only use the sanding side for both the carbon (before I install the inserts), and the inserts themselves, if they were put in before the carbon shaft was squared. The reason being there's more flat surface area for the aluminum insert to square up against, vs. the cutting blade side, where all it's going to do is track whatever angle the inserts at, and whatever imperfections is on the face, and not really square off the insert.


not sure im following you. so you never use the cutting blade side??


----------



## L.I.Archer

308ruger said:


> not sure im following you. so you never use the cutting blade side??


I have used the cutting blade side, once. I stopped using the cutting blade after I noticed it wasn't squaring up the aluminum inserts, just tracking whatever imperfections were on the face. Think of it as a record player needle on a warped record. It's only going to follow the warpage.


----------



## stickin em'

Posting so I can find later. awesome idea


----------



## cubefx

Here is my take....

Made this one over the weekend. Only things I bought is Rail clamp, aluminum measuring tape and C-clamps to hold the Dremel. Everything else is a scrap was laying in the garage from previous projects.
Tested it out by recycling old damaged arrows and cutting them to the 23" for my son to shoot. Works perfect. Very happy with a results.


----------



## intheshaw

Is there a reason why a stationary cutof disc is needed compared to saw this mini cut off saw?

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/cut-off-saws/bench-top-cut-off-saw-42307.html

I was planning on making a setup with my dremel, but then came across that and it looks like there is even a clamp on it to hold your arrow securely.


----------



## L.I.Archer

Man, I lucked out a few years ago when I picked up the 8000 rpm Weston arrow saw with vacuum attachment, from The Sportsman's Guide for $99. The cheapest I'm seeing it now is $155.95.

http://www.meatprocessingproducts.com/52-0601-w.html (This is the one I got.)


----------



## cubefx

You can get it at Bowhunters Superstore at that price. Sometimes even at the lower price if they have e-mail discount code.
http://www.bowhunterssuperstore.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=arrow+saw&x=0&y=0




L.I.Archer said:


> Man, I lucked out a few years ago when I picked up the 8000 rpm Weston arrow saw with vacuum attachment, from The Sportsman's Guide for $99. The cheapest I'm seeing it now is $155.95.
> 
> http://www.meatprocessingproducts.com/52-0601-w.html (This is the one I got.)


----------



## L.I.Archer

cubefx said:


> You can get it at Bowhunters Superstore at that price. Sometimes even at the lower price if they have e-mail discount code.
> http://www.bowhunterssuperstore.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=arrow+saw&x=0&y=0


I wouldn't anything from Bowhunters Super Store. Besides, nowadays I get my supplies through Kinseys.


----------



## shootenbulls

I like the original idea with the small bench grinder for a dual purpose work bench


----------



## BMXRider2011

I have to subscribe to this one


----------



## drn

I have tried the HF 10,000 rpm grinders and have had the same result that another poster had...there is 3/16" of wobble on the 1/16" (thick) cutting disc when it is installed on them.
I've wondered how much difference that would make at 10,000 rpm...without yet building the cutting jig assembly...I held an arrow to (a previously damaged carbon arrow)and cut about 1" off of it while rotating it in the same direction that the cutting wheel was turning. The cut was not true but really not as bad as I had expected considering that the rear of the arrow was not supported at all. Could the result be that at 10,000 rpm the errors of the machinery are minimized and that is why the arrow manufacturers recommend higher speeds for cutting shafts? This particular arrow is a GT Xt 3355 and I would not hesitate to touch it up with a stone and shoot it. Any opinions about the rpm factor? How important is it?


----------



## Team4STA

so glad to see all the saws inspired by my build. You guys have really done some great builds


----------



## Chiro_Archer

Question, is there a specific head that you use for the dremel or grinder? I have never used one before, so I am asking to learn more, thanks!


----------



## elkslayer

Great Idea, Post so i can find it later


----------



## 1 hoyt Vtec

Here is my version. Works slick and cuts arrows square.


----------



## Livn-Lg

As I was reading this and listening to everyones concerns about the arrow not being square I started wondering why the saw had to be stationary. Can I get some opinions on using the Dremel setup but using a variation in that maybe the saw is bolted to one side of a large hinge and the other is attached to the board. This would allow the Arrow to be set stationary say between to bearings and the saw then be able to be brought to the arrow. Just looking for insight to if this seems possible and what your opinions would be to this type of setup. Thanks and I look forward to adding a pic to this soon.


----------



## little_hubb

i need to add this to my project list...


----------



## Livn-Lg

opinions?


----------



## jrdrees

I made mine from a mini hobby grinder (off brand dremel), it will cut straight and doesn't bind if I go slow... I only plunge the blade in barely through the wall thickness and then spin the arrow, gives a square cut as long as the arrow is at 90 degrees to the blade and tool. I also had wobble and tried different blades, and rotated the mandrel until I found the best alignment. The blades that came with the tool sucked, I got the Dremel reinforced ones and some were still warped.


----------



## dpete

This is on my to do list and I have a question about mounting a dremel tool. Has anyone tried using muffler clamps to mount it? They come with that nice rounded out cradle for going around the pipe and I'm sure there is one made that would fit the diameter of a dremel. Using a muffler clamp would eliminate the worry of the dremel slipping sideways slightly under its mounting U-bolts.


----------



## uno676

Cool


----------



## wv hoyt man

Marked, great job.


----------



## 13third

tag


----------



## Ryan1454

Looks good I will be building one of these


----------



## polardaddy

tagging for after a HF trip


----------



## buckman2591

What blades are everyone using??


----------



## etcher1

Nice!
Marked so I can find again.


----------



## aljburk

Tag


----------



## aljburk

Can we get some more pics of some completed saws? Any other modifications?


----------



## aljburk

Couldnt wait! All items purchased and its about 80% completed. just have to figure out how the tail end is gonna hold the nock.


----------



## ronnielkier

Nice ! Gonna have to make to make one of these !

I SHOT IT WITH MY P.S.E. HAMMER!


----------



## flyfisher76544

Great idea, gonna build one myself


----------



## rdhj

just what i needed to make my saw better...need that clamp


----------



## aljburk




----------



## Demonian

My version. Please excuse the mess. There are 6 shooters in the house and the workbench gets used daily. The only change I would have made would have been a hole underneath, with an adapter to some smaller tubing to attach my shop vac to.










Closer look at how I modified the clear guard that came with the grinder to use as a stop. It makes it extremely idiot (me) proof to get a straight cut. Just push the arrow on until you hear the cut stop, then hold a small amount of pressure and rotate the arrow.










All the dust you see is from two dozen arrows being cut and 4 or 5 being trimmed to fix differing lengths after a failed attempt with a Dremel by hand. A way to keep this out of the air is highly recommended.


----------



## Poyse2b3

saved for later


----------



## rembrandt

I like that.....not sure I could get it figured out like you have it but I'd love to have one just like it!


----------



## buckman2591

aljburk said:


> View attachment 1665850
> View attachment 1665851
> 
> View attachment 1665853


Pm'd


----------



## Theojt

I didn't see it mentioned here but while we're all building these saws, I'll offer a friendly reminder that CF dust is not something you want in your lungs - vacuum and/or quality respirator is advised. CF dust has been discussed here on AT before: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1193385. I read of a Dr. that worked outside when cutting CF, and used both a respirator and disposable Tyvek suit. Maybe overkill but it makes the point.


----------



## pcjordan82

Does it qualify as Made in USA even though all Harbor Freight stuff is from china? :wink:

Great idea.


----------



## buckman2591

Well the end product is from the USA


----------



## buckhunter1

Marked.


----------



## Bobcat13

*1st attempt*

Here is my first attempt. Total cost to me is $26. $20 for the rotary saw and $6 for the aluminum angle.







I made the red blocks on a 3D printer. Everything else I had laying around the house. I plan on getting some type of measuring scale on it next.


----------



## 12PointJedi

Nice, Bobcat. I like your KISS design.
Looking at your setup, do you just ease the arrow into the cutting wheel while the nock end is stationary? Then rotate?


----------



## Bobcat13

Yes, the end block has a hole made in it to hold the end of the shaft. I just place the end of the shaft in the hole and ease it into the cutting blade and rotate it to complete the cut. Makes a perfectly square cut every time. The middle block is probably not necessary but I like it there to support the shaft so it doesn't flex too much during the cutting process. I think it helps keep the cuts more consistent from shaft to shaft.


----------



## Dewboy

Team4STA said:


> I still have to attach the ruler to the front side for accurate measurements. I added a reference guide to the side for the ruler using a mirror stay. The ruler will be attached under the guide.


I've been using the same Chicago Electric grinder for several years. Has held up well and works great. I just need a better guide. My guide is off of an old arrow saw. I have been very satisfied with my adjustable arrow support that holds the arrow in place at the blade. It looks like it's just thrown together, but I actually meticulously squared the arrow guide so that the arrows are square with the cutter blade when cutting. I was going to update it with a different guide and just never did. You've got me motivated to update it now. The only downfall to using this grinder is that I usually have to pre-cut my shafts before cutting to exact length. I can't just go from full length to 27" in one cut. I use the top arrow support on the motor for pre-cutting the shafts and the bottom one for the final cut. I probably could probably do it in one cut if I went with a larger diameter blade and removed the work rest on the opposite side. Just haven't got up the gumption to do anything else to it. It's cut quite a few shafts. Thanks for posting. I needed the motivation.


----------



## Dewboy

Team4STA said:


> I still have to attach the ruler to the front side for accurate measurements. I added a reference guide to the side for the ruler using a mirror stay. The ruler will be attached under the guide.


Built one using the same Chicago Electric mini bench grinder a few years ago and it has worked great. My arrow support I made for it has worked great. Tried to upload photos but can't for some reason.


----------



## Dewboy




----------



## Dewboy

Team4STA said:


> The clamp is used to run a skill saw along. I removed several parts from it but left the Stop. With the pinch of a finger it can be moved anywhere along the track, and when released it stays put!


Looks like this one from Harbor Freight: Pittsburgh - item#66126


----------



## Dewboy

Buckman, the only thing I see that Your saw needs is a stop on the shelf at the blade. You want something that limits the depth of cut so that you have to turn the shaft to cut it off. All it takes is a piece of flat bar with a notch mahined into it. Or you can drill a hole in the flat bar, then cut from the edge to the drilled hole with a hack saw. Then to the final work with files. I used an end mill in a milling machine, but you can do it with hand tools. You will have to cut part of the grinder guard with a hack saw and fold it back out of the way. Then you will need to file a flat on the base of the grinder and Drill/tap a hole for the screw to mount the arrow support bracket. It's very simple. I included pics of mine on the first page. Excuse all the rust. Never got around to painting mine.

You could probably make an L-shaped arrow stop to screw onto your rest even more easily. It would simply mount from the bottm and stick up behind the rest & next to the blade. You can put a slot in it where you can adjust the depth of cut. I would keep it simple as possible.


----------



## Dewboy

buckman2591 said:


> What blades are everyone using??


Lots of people are using the Harbor Freight cut-off blades, and although they work, I ordered an extra thin blade for mine. The thinner high quality blades work much better. But the cheaper blades from Harbor Freight will work. I can't remember where I got my thin blade from, but I'll try to find out.


----------



## bwhntr7973

Just tagging for later. I love your idea, I have been using my dremmel and then squaring the end with my sander. This is much better!


----------



## rembrandt

Dewboy said:


> Lots of people are using the Harbor Freight cut-off blades, and although they work, I ordered an extra thin blade for mine. The thinner high quality blades work much better. But the cheaper blades from Harbor Freight will work. I can't remember where I got my thin blade from, but I'll try to find out.


Theres a guy on Ebay who makes those or at least he sells them....he advertizes them as arrow cut off blades to fit the Harbor Freight tool......


----------



## sjvcon

So does the clamp sit in line with the blade so that the shaft has to be rotated into the blade to align it straight with the clamp? Not sure I asked that right ... 

How does the knock fit into the clamp to get the correct length from knock seat to blade?


----------



## stillern

Well done.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## bwhntr7973

This is a great version and looks good too.


cubefx said:


> Here is my take....
> 
> Made this one over the weekend. Only things I bought is Rail clamp, aluminum measuring tape and C-clamps to hold the Dremel. Everything else is a scrap was laying in the garage from previous projects.
> Tested it out by recycling old damaged arrows and cutting them to the 23" for my son to shoot. Works perfect. Very happy with a results.
> 
> 
> View attachment 1491386
> 
> 
> View attachment 1491391
> 
> 
> View attachment 1491392
> 
> 
> View attachment 1491394
> 
> 
> View attachment 1491395
> 
> 
> View attachment 1491396
> 
> 
> View attachment 1491397
> 
> 
> View attachment 1491399
> 
> 
> View attachment 1491400
> 
> 
> View attachment 1491407


----------



## Chuck The Arrow

Bwhntr7973....where did you find your rail clamp?


----------



## S.Alder

Awesome idea. Marking to put in my shop.


----------



## bwhntr7973

Chuck the Arrow, the rail clamp is from Harbor Freight. It is the 24" rail clamp. I would have gone with a 36" but my HF only had the 24 and 50" clamps.


Chuck The Arrow said:


> Bwhntr7973....where did you find your rail clamp?


----------



## K.G.K.

tag


----------



## K.G.K.

My 9.00 version. I would recommend a stronger cutter from HF. This one works okay if you rotate the arrow slowly. The rest of the jig is made from mdf scraps. The cutter carriage sits in a track that slides into the stationary shaft, and then the removed section in the arrow track gives my fingers room to turn the shaft to complete the cut ...perfect everytime. The arrow nock sits in a skate wheel bearing and is length adjustable.

Sent from my phone using Tapatalk 2


----------



## idahobow84

Saved for use in my shop.


----------



## redbone311

idahobow84 said:


> Saved for use in my shop.


Ditto


----------



## Opted ale

Now that is slick!!! Very neat clean design! Cubefx thanks for the closups


----------



## mainersmotive

Very nice!!


----------



## Navycook91

thanks for showing! next project!


----------



## KimberTac1911

Nice looking saw


----------



## mainersmotive

Best one yet


----------



## onyx48166

go mine finished


----------



## mainersmotive

Mines almost done just found a sale at HF for a $8.99 rotary tool (normally 24.99)


----------



## tspengler

ttt


----------



## hbuscg33

Tag


----------



## CLLO2210

tagged


----------



## Shink26

Sub'd


----------



## Outsider

Tagged


----------



## jarcher38

tagged for later, great idea


----------



## KSchmidt

subscribe


----------



## buckhunter1

Marked


----------



## jwilson48

tagged


----------



## cougarIIInow

tagged


----------



## jpeepr

tagged


----------



## casady

View attachment 2100955


Gary Wiant said:


> any part number for the clamp yet?
> 
> Thanks


Pittsburgh - item#66581 -- harbor freight -- they hava a coupon for this so it would be
View attachment 2100955


----------



## neednew1

Tag


----------



## jameson305




----------



## onyx48166

that is a nice ASD you got there


----------



## jameson305

...yes it is. Thanks for the ASD onyx48166 works great


----------



## zze86

awesome build!


----------



## Animaltracker

Built mine last weekend, thanks for the information Team4STA. I made mine using the Harbor Freight Mini Chop saw. Works great.


----------



## Msokol13

Done....less than $38 an 15 minutes of my time


----------



## Msokol13




----------



## multi-target

Was thinking of buying a saw but think I'll build one.. Good job.


----------



## Acts 10:13

Tag


----------



## Team4STA

Ttt


----------



## 5spotkiller

Tag


----------



## grubstake

This is waY better than the chop saw one in my eyes, good job.


----------



## Cris Anderson

I'm building my own right now as well, based off of the OP's post. Instead of a grinder or chop saw from HF though, I'm looking at a 7000rpm sewing machine motor.

http://www.amazon.com/MGS-Global-Griswold-FM15/dp/B002BGF2OA

I'm still researching the actual models available to see if there are better options, but honestly this seems like it'll do the trick. In addition, the body is flat, which will allow an arrow to pass all the way through, making cutting my short 25.5" carbon to carbon arrows much easier with just one cut lol.

The only problem I see might be adapting the blade to the drive on the motor...but I think I can work something out. I'll let you all know how it goes.


----------



## Outsider

Cris Anderson said:


> I'm building my own right now as well, based off of the OP's post. Instead of a grinder or chop saw from HF though, I'm looking at a 7000rpm sewing machine motor.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/MGS-Global-Griswold-FM15/dp/B002BGF2OA
> 
> I'm still researching the actual models available to see if there are better options, but honestly this seems like it'll do the trick. In addition, the body is flat, which will allow an arrow to pass all the way through, making cutting my short 25.5" carbon to carbon arrows much easier with just one cut lol.
> 
> The only problem I see might be adapting the blade to the drive on the motor...but I think I can work something out. I'll let you all know how it goes.


Would you like one like that:


----------



## alkarts2006

Nice build


----------



## Cris Anderson

Pysiek said:


> Would you like one like that:


Well!! That looks like it'll definitely do the trick lol. I'll see if I can research the model number of that build. Plenty fast for sure! Thanks for the video .


----------



## Outsider

I have them. With the shaft


----------



## Cris Anderson

Pysiek said:


> I have them. With the shaft


PM sent


----------



## lungpuncher1

Saved me 100ish bucks!! Thanks for the idea


----------



## FMEZA

man that's awesome!


----------



## Team4STA

I am so glad you guys are running with this.


----------



## brenth

This is a good thread, I'm in the process of building my own saw and am getting some really good ideas. Thanks guys.


----------



## Team4STA

Great


----------



## brenth

brenth said:


> This is a good thread, I'm in the process of building my own saw and am getting some really good ideas. Thanks guys.


Here's what I have done so far, the only thing I have had to purchase was the two U bolts for $2.49.
View attachment 2178848


----------



## Top30Archery

Tagged


----------



## brenth

I finished my saw up today. I am really happy with the way it turned out. I already had the Dremel and most of the stuff needed for the build, I probably have between $15-20 in building the saw. I decided to use the small abrasive wheels that came with the Dremel instead of the larger cut off wheel because they seemed to spin better and didn't have a wobble to them. I made the cut off fence so that it can be easily removed to replace the wheels and it also can be adjusted as the wheel wares smaller.
View attachment 2181405
View attachment 2181406


View attachment 2181407


----------



## jwilson48

Got mine done. Used the little table clamp it came with in a modified manner as my guide clamp. Works great and didn't have to spend the $$ on a guide


----------



## chachi

Building tomorrow. Great post.


----------



## Acts 10:13

Tagged!


Then a voice told him, 'Get up, Peter. Kill and eat.'


----------



## S.Dobbs

That's nice!


----------



## Ck1447

Awesome and easy build, great job


----------



## Tugs

Tag


----------



## FearNot

Nice looking set up bro.


----------



## Jaliv92

Tagged


----------



## holbrookt

I might have to build one of these.


----------



## Team4STA

Ttt


----------



## Pmaurer

That's really cool!


----------



## Clay104

Ive had good luck with my $32 harbor freight mini bench top cut off saw.


----------



## Team4STA

ttt


----------



## phillip0416

Cool stuff,

is this considered complex for a saw set up?


----------



## ReleaseTheBeast

nice, does it work good


----------



## Milo357

Tagged!


----------



## ReleaseTheBeast

cool


----------



## seabowhunter

Nice job!!!!


----------



## Huddlebots

I love it, definitely gave me a great idea on mine.


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## IowaTines

I Just recently built on of these. Harbor freight had the clamp I used a 26" works fine. You have to do some messing around with spacers and such to get it so a thin cut off wheel will fit the arbor just right. I found that if you pull the buff wheel on the left side and steal the metal spacer from there and put it on the other it lines up perfect for the cut off wheel. For cut off wheels that fit, The arbor is actually slightly smaller than 1/2" so I just barley drilled out the center of a 3/8's arbor disk and it fits perfectly. You can also look up T bird arrow cut off wheels they sell a 3" 1/2" arbor wheel that will fit. Everything that works awesome but I do have one down fall. The RPMs on this bench grinder a very slow so you really have to take your time when cutting so you don't stop the motor or it will splinter the carbon as well. But if you take your time it works great.


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## nzabel18

Awesome. Need to make something like this.


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## Porthos

nice looks good


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## Jaybrooks

Nice


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## Airbornebear

Well done! Thanks for sharing. &#55357;&#56397;


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## Dougd1984

Harbor Freight to the rescue again!!


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## tack62

Great Idea. Thanks for the post


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## firebike7

Not a bad rig for $38.


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## Z3B

Great thinking !


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## andylw

I made one like it. Works great


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## Idahoan1

Thats cool!


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## Orygun

Looks awesome! I think I might have to work one up for myself.


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## keetonjw

Nice!


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## Djqpaz

Cool! On my list


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Huntetncrgolfer

Well done!


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## Whit2292

nice


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## FinestKind

Nice job


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## cocote

Wow Nice you give me a good idee


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## Adam35C

I'm gonna need to make this too

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## HellsCanyon

Very cool!


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## fish impaler

how often do you replace cutoff wheels ?


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## BrandonB85

simple and effective. nice job


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## Kmarks

That is awesome.


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## EricTreb

Great Job


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## kilerhamilton

Give you 50$ for it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Finnish person

Nice job


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## Radieker

Awesome idea! If you could list the part numbers the other guys have asked for would be very useful. Thanks for sharing!


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## tiredoldguy

Very good idea.


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## anthonyyoung385

that's genius


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## Milo357

I just wanted to pay homage to those who came before. Here's my arrow saw. Clear I took all my ideas from this thread.


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## travis941

Good idea!

Sent from my LG-M327 using Archery Talk Forum


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## elkincoach

agree great idea


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## ryansando45

dude this is brilliant!


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## ryansando45

would like part number as well if you geta chance lol


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## Rodray12

nice!


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## Archer aries

nice


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## flpickrel

like the mini saw idea on the way to harber fright ' thanks'


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## Michael A.

Great Job!


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## onesavage

Sub’d


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## TheFishinBowmen

love seeing Diy stuff, Nice work!


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## mibowhunter1989

That looks great


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## Matias3

Great idea thank you


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## Tessaann16

Creative! Great job


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## nickee3158

Nice setup, but I think a proper clamp to hold the arrow shaft securely when cutting would be ideal for consistent and smooth cuts. I would recommend mounting like a small mini vise clamp.


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## beauleyse10

Great Job! Looks very effective.


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## ebs

I will definitely have to make one!


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## Devious303

Great idea


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## CTrick

That's a nice setup, might have to look at adding to my shop. Need a little grinder anyways. Thanks for sharing!


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## Wihunt608

Looks nice! I'm sure it works just as well as my $200 saw.


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## Milo357

ryansando45 said:


> would like part number as well if you geta chance lol


https://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66126.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/rotary-tool-kit-80-pc-63235.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/power-maintained-foot-switch-96618.html?_br_psugg_q=foot+switch
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-heavy-duty-spring-clamp-91838.html
2 "U" bolts from Home Depot
4'x2' .5 inch MDF board
36" measuring stick from Walmart.

Hope that helps!


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## BNel

Cool!


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## Cgreenleaf

ncie


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## BedfordBruisers

Looks good. I thought about making one from some harbor freight tools


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## RLWilkins

Thanks good Idea...


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## thodosi

Very nice!!


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## JakeRV

Great Idea! looks awesome.


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## Arrow68

Great job!


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## cwilliams73034

brilliant


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## kenklimo

That is awesome!!!


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## gobblerthumper

I know what i'm doing this weekend


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## Martin Chemnitz

Great idea, thanks for sharing.


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## nirv996

Great build. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## del lanati

nice setup


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## predator94

Nice build!


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## bigmac2516

might have to look into doing this when I get my garage into shape and get a place to work on my bow


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## k_nonymous

Pretty impressive!


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## rivalstrings

Cool


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## JPrescott

I thought about doing the same thing mounting my dremmel or rotozip to the table and a simple v-shaped trough, but I haven't done it yet.


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## Fxxtoo

*track and knobs*



1stRockinArcher said:


> It looks like the track is in a routed out channel.
> The only problem is I don't know where to get the track or the knob.
> Any help identifying the track and knob would be appreciated.
> I'm sure some of You DIY'ers knows what this track and knob are ??


 rockler com Try this place, I used the track and inserts for my router table.


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## ragimmatrix

Cheap and simple, nice


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## Lnoggle1

Absolutely awesome!


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## PRidd17

Shoot yeah!


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## kmooberry+10+

Cheap and simple I like it 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## djohnson63

will have to try this!


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## Soo Jit

Great Idea!!!


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## tacomeyers15

This is great stuff. Beats spending an arm and a leg on the $200+ arrow saws.


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## BroMontana

Need to do this. I come across this thread every time I need arrows and look at arrow saws ha. Don't want to drop $100+ on something I'll probably only use a couple of times a year. But would be convenient to have. Don't care much for my local shop. I already fletch my own arrows. Just need a saw. Already have the HF Dremel tool.


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## Jayjb

That's awesome man.


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## hocojoe

Good work


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## Gooty

Great idea!


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## Bruce.net

I appreciate the post, great idea.


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## howdawg81

Nice!


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## Gronks

Good thinkin , i want one


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## caggiano

Nice!


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## Nande

Does it splinter the carbon at all?


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## Cullboss

Nice work I was looking to buy an arrow saw but I like this price point much better.


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## PlanetMarz

Team4STA said:


> The mini grinder was 24.00 and the cutoff wheel was 1.99 and the Strait line clamp was 12.00. It works beautifully.!!!


oh geez! this is awesome..


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## Cnc Jay

Want to say thanks to the op and all who posted plans and pics , great ideas . So I got my saw done today. Here's a few pics. I had the rotozip ,all I had to buy was the track and the arbor and cut off wheels.


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## briano23

This is one I put together.


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## Strongmedicine

very nice


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## dongley

Good idea


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## Ranchero6247

Thanks for sharing, looking forward to making one.


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## Ram Raiser

Awesome


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## lerlandson

Great idea, Ill be jumping on the diy arrow cutter band wagon apparently.


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## beegee59

Very nice


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## Timmy turbo

Sweet.


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## Rusty15Taco

Nice


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## tsasser

Great setup! Built one very similar this year.


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## tsasser

Saves a lot of money when you can just order them and cut yourself. I started fletching my own and really enjoy it for some reason.


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## asb1018

Good Idea


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## Flyarchery24

that's awesome! nice work


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## briano23

Your welcome it was very easy to make.


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## Bjames

This is impressive.


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## RJT68

Great job I’m on my way now to pick up the parts. I have a HF just a few miles from me I live in that store. Thanks for sharing with the group.


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## briano23

No problem, the setup works really well.

Sent from my SM-G960U using http://bit.ly/Archery_Talk_app


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## fastbow

My DIY Arrow Saw


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## eric poris

Great idea, thanks for posting!


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## 925767

jbuhr said:


> great idea i was there today looking to build the same thing only with the 3in "chop saw" they had for $25, i thought it would give it a more true cut and it had a small vice to clamp the arrows in to make sure it was square


I have one made from the little chop saw, works like a champ. Been using it for a few years now.


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## preachereric1

cool


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## XTPA

Great build!


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## redarrow6

very nice looking .


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## 74hntr

This is sweet idea... obviously this would be a safety glasses on operation but has anyone had one of those cut off wheels blow apart? I tried a much more low tech set up a few years ago and the cut off disc broke after few dozen cuts.. This is a winter day project at some point and strategizing what features to include.


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## Junior454

Great Idea .. Thanks


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## Moseley42

Awesome. You should build and sell them!


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## turbocc

good idea


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## phseagle_79

Awesome idea .


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## donhoffman

Very good job.


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## Jordan Couch

Nice!


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## Boltsmyth

Making mine now. Using Harbor Freight cut-off saw.


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## Carlos Vicente

Looks good, thought of building, but the club has one there was no point, plus I'd rather leave the carbon dust at the club than at home


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## Simon223

Wow looks good...


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## Shooter1543

Nice Job!


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## Skunkworkx

25% off any 1 item 

https://www.harborfreight.com/


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## roosclan

My club has a home built arrow saw that I've used, but it's a 30 minute drive just to get there. An hour of driving for 5-10 minutes of cutting...

I think I'll build one. I can cut them, get inserts/points installed, and have half of them fletched in the time it would take me to make one trip to the club.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


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## Bwsmith19

Looks good I think I will build one with the dremel


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## gberinger

Awesome. Looks like it will do the trick


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## juliekbergen

Is the length adjustment easy to do small adjustments? I have a Weston saw and the stop for the end of the arrow is really hard to adjust. It moves as you tighten it down. Was wondering if I can retrofit it with something like you used.


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## juliekbergen




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## roosclan

I made my arrow saw last night. I used the 3" mini-grinder, 24" guide rail, and a narrow adhesive tape measure from Harbor Freight, plus some wood I already had. I couldn't use the red cup like the OP did since it isn't big enough for 27/64" arrows. I grabbed a 1/2" x 3/8" nylon spacer to set the arrow in, cut off a flat piece of plastic from the moveable foot, and made the adjustable end long enough to act as a ruler marker as well.

One thing to note: the current iteration of this grinder does not have enough bushings to mount the cut-off disc as shown in the illustrations. It has to go together a bit differently. I will try to get a picture of it later tonight.









Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


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## Daave

Motor and extra wood









Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk


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## ToddD89

jwilson48 said:


> View attachment 2182038
> 
> 
> Got mine done. Used the little table clamp it came with in a modified manner as my guide clamp. Works great and didn't have to spend the $$ on a guide


That's just like what I envision putting together. Looks good.


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## Cuahitl

A lot of good ideas here. Thanks.


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## CentralMABow

I see this in my future this weekend. I’ll
Post pics after it’s done. 


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## shortman80

very nice


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## K2snow2010

Awesome just what I need!


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## Berryg

bump


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## Ethan Nunnery

very nice idea


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Whitetail88Arch

Is there a reason nobody used this? I seen a lot of the one said it spins a little slow but this one spins 10,000 RPMs only a little more expensive. Making it tonight!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## flyingturbines

Looks professional. Great idea.


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## KeithStone

Do you need to spin the shafts as you cut or basically just use it as a chop saw? Also, is it necessary to tape it before the cut?


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## roosclan

KeithStone said:


> Do you need to spin the shafts as you cut or basically just use it as a chop saw? Also, is it necessary to tape it before the cut?


Do NOT use it as a chop saw! Spin the shaft. If you do this, you won't need to tape it.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


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## 27travis

Too easy. Definitely doing this. Thanks!


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## kholding

Nice setup. Need to build something like that for myself


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## Bwsmith19

Whitetail88Arch said:


> Is there a reason nobody used this? I seen a lot of the one said it spins a little slow but this one spins 10,000 RPMs only a little more expensive. Making
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How did it go


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## roosclan

I decided to upgrade my setup by switching from the mini-grinder to the stronger flex shaft grinder, and it basically entailed rebuilding the thing. It definitely makes faster work of aluminum arrows!

A) the two grinders are not the same height. You will have to raise your arrow rail about 3/4" to keep the arrow level and perpendicular to the cutting wheel. This entails new riser blocks.

B) the 3/8" arbor hole in the blade is too small to fit over the 10mm arbor. You need a 7/16" hole in your cutting wheel. Good luck with that. Fortunately...

C) the cutting wheel fits over the threaded part of the arbor, so a 3/8” washer followed by the disc, then another washer, then the nut, will keep the disc in place and straight. 

Why they made a proprietary 10mm arbor instead of a standard 3/8" like the cordless cutting tools is beyond me...

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


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## Hoyt crx 32

I used the 3” chop saw and it works great as mentioned it has a small clamp that helps hold the shaft straight 
Thanks


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## CantHelpBut2Tinker

Nice set up! I need to hit harbor freight soon


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## roosclan

Hoyt crx 32 said:


> I used the 3” chop saw and it works great as mentioned it has a small clamp that helps hold the shaft straight
> Thanks


How do you rotate the shaft if you clamp it down? Carbon arrows need to be rotated into the cutting disc to ensure a square end and no splintering.


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