# My turn! Please roast my form



## smoothbuns (May 19, 2020)

I have been playing around with my draw length and anchor point quite a bit the last month. But I kind of want to have everything set before I start thinking about getting arrows ready for this fall. My draw length is currently set at 28.5in. Is there anything you all would suggest I adjust? Thanks for the help!


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

smoothbuns said:


> I have been playing around with my draw length and anchor point quite a bit the last month. But I kind of want to have everything set before I start thinking about getting arrows ready for this fall. My draw length is currently set at 28.5in. Is there anything you all would suggest I adjust? Thanks for the help!
> 
> 
> View attachment 7201357


1) Your collar bones are shrugged WAY up....tops of collar bones are at the same height as the arrow.
Stand tall, with no peep and new photo. Relax the shoulders and DROP both collar bones, so you have room under the arrow, between arrow and tops of shoulders.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

smoothbuns said:


> I have been playing around with my draw length and anchor point quite a bit the last month. But I kind of want to have everything set before I start thinking about getting arrows ready for this fall. My draw length is currently set at 28.5in. Is there anything you all would suggest I adjust? Thanks for the help!
> 
> 
> View attachment 7201357


Fingers stretched out like a pitchfork, never works. Nope, fingers pointing straight out is NOT relaxed bow hand. In fact, when the fingers are pointing STRAIGHT out like a pitchfork, the thumb muscle is stiff, like a speed bump. So, when fingers are straight out, like a pitchfork, the bow swivels sideways off your bow hand speed bump thumb muscle, and you get LARGER sideways misses.

The bow hand is more like this.





So, for newbies like yourself, I use a TRAINING tool. Find some aluminum foil and make a FIRM ball 2-inches in diameter.



The ball acts as a spacer, to FORCE you to rotate the bow hand knuckles to 45 degrees. WHY rotate the bow hand soooo much. It FEELS weird. Cuz, this works for most humans on this planet.
The 45 degree rotation puts MOST of the thumb muscle off the grip, so much LESS of the thumb muscle oozes past the right vertical edge of the grip.

BUt, WHY do I gotta curl my fingers around the massive 2-inch ball? The natural shape of the fingers is to CURL, so you lightly CURL the fingers around the ball.



So, with the training ball, your bow hand becomes like this.



BUT, my fingers cannot touch the riser!!!! Exactly. BUT, I cannot GRIP my bow!!! Exactly. You use the side of the thumb, parallel to the arrow, to GUIDE the riser.


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## smoothbuns (May 19, 2020)

nuts&bolts said:


> Fingers stretched out like a pitchfork, never works. Nope, fingers pointing straight out is NOT relaxed bow hand. In fact, when the fingers are pointing STRAIGHT out like a pitchfork, the thumb muscle is stiff, like a speed bump. So, when fingers are straight out, like a pitchfork, the bow swivels sideways off your bow hand speed bump thumb muscle, and you get LARGER sideways misses.
> 
> The bow hand is more like this.
> 
> ...


Thanks!! I wasn't able to get a new picture today with no one else at the range, but I did try out the ball. When the shot breaks is the bow supposed to feel like it jumps forward slightly? It even felt like the whole bow was rocking backward.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

smoothbuns said:


> Thanks!! I wasn't able to get a new picture today with no one else at the range, but I did try out the ball. When the shot breaks is the bow supposed to feel like it jumps forward slightly? It even felt like the whole bow was rocking backward.


Depends on what bow. If bow rocks backwards, increase front stab weight.
Yes, some bows will jump forwards after you release the arrow. That's why the side of the thumb has to be parallel to the arrow, to guide the riser to jump dead straight forwards.


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## smoothbuns (May 19, 2020)

Gave it a shot yesterday. I am not sure if my anchor needs to be changed to bring my collarbones down. The top picture is 28.5 without me changing my head position to line up the peep. I was also thinking about dropping shoulders, but I felt a little compressed. 

View attachment 7203649


I switched up for one end and tried 29in and took a picture, to see if that allowed me to drop the collarbones, but it didn't make much of a difference. I did the same thing by not changing my head position to line up the peep. 

View attachment 7203645


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

smoothbuns said:


> Gave it a shot yesterday. I am not sure if my anchor needs to be changed to bring my collarbones down. The top picture is 28.5 without me changing my head position to line up the peep. I was also thinking about dropping shoulders, but I felt a little compressed.
> 
> View attachment 7203649
> 
> ...


Attachments do not work. Please try to post pics again.


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## smoothbuns (May 19, 2020)

Whoops! Here's the post again with the pictures.

Gave it a shot yesterday. I am not sure if my anchor needs to be changed to bring my collarbones down. The top picture is 28.5 without me changing my head position to line up the peep. I was also thinking about dropping shoulders, but I felt a little compressed.









I switched up for one end and tried 29in and took a picture, to see if that allowed me to drop the collarbones, but it didn't make much of a difference. I did the same thing by not changing my head position to line up the peep.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

smoothbuns said:


> Whoops! Here's the post again with the pictures.
> 
> Gave it a shot yesterday. I am not sure if my anchor needs to be changed to bring my collarbones down. The top picture is 28.5 without me changing my head position to line up the peep. I was also thinking about dropping shoulders, but I felt a little compressed.
> 
> ...


Ankles too far apart. Left hip is hiked up higher than right hips. See how right leg is angles backwards. Get ankles only 6-inches apart (inside separation), and get both hips level, top of shorts level.

Cuz in your photos, both draw lengths, LEFT hip is higher than right hip,
your shoulders/collar bones are mirroring your hips. IN both photos, the LEFT shoulder is SKY HIGH. LEVEL out both shoulders/collar bones
and PUSH the riser away from your face. REACH for the target and push the end of the front stab at least 4-inches FARTHER in front of the shooting line.
Get your LEFT armpit FORWARDS of your left ankle.

I shoved your right ankle MUCH MUCH closer to the left ankle, to get right leg vertical.
ZERO reason to need to slide right ankle SOOOOO far away from left ankle. GEt both legs closer and vertical.
That will get top of shorts to LEVEL. You have the top right of shorts SUPER low, and top left of shorts SKY HIGH, all cuz of the weird angled back leg.

I shoved down the LEFT shoulder HARD, and pushed the right armpit WAY FORWARDS. See double image of top cam. That's about how much you need to sTRETCH forwards, to move the front stab, the end, further out past the shooting line.

When you PUSH the riser out further past the shooting line, the right shoulder will drop and the right elbow needs to come UP.


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