# Higher End Arrows vs budget arrows??



## Sorgy (Aug 22, 2006)

Hello, 
I am fairly new to posting here. Here goes.
I have been shooting Behman ICS Hunter 400 arrows for 5 years. They are super tough and fly decent. I am still working on the dozen shafts I picked out of a used arrow bin and cut to my length. What can I gain by stepping up to a Maxxima 350 or a Gold Tip Pro? Do the tighter tollerances in straightness = more accuracy? 
I currently shoot a Darton Mag 33 2001 model. 65# and a 28" draw. I am shooting my first 3D league this year and I shoot often in my back yard. I have posted better scores than I thought I would but I see lots of guys shooting much more expensive arrows. Will I notice some sort of increase in my scores if I make the move to better arrows? 

Thanks for the help

Steve


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## BukWild (Sep 27, 2006)

:moviecorn


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## gilliland87 (Apr 5, 2006)

*i'm no guru but*

I have been on both ends of the spectrum as far as arrow cost, i have shoot easton jazz to x 10's, I shot good with the jazz and good with the x 10's as it is as long as your shafts are .006 in straightness or better they will most likely shoot more accurate than you can. but a better arrow may help. i have always shot a leauge of one kind or another and what i would do is shoot until i improved as much as i could. (hit a point cap i couldn't break and would upgrade equipment) it was more me than the equipment but if you feel good about your equipment i find you tend to shoot better. but just my 2 centsw


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## Quintin66 (Feb 23, 2006)

gilliland87 said:


> if you feel good about your equipment i find you tend to shoot better.


Truer words have not been spoken...


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## moosehunter78 (Jun 5, 2006)

*Pick one produt and stick with it*

If you find a arrow that works great just keep what you have, No need messing up a god thing


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## goldtip22 (Oct 14, 2004)

Take a look at the specs on the Gold Tip Ultralights vs the Ultralight Pros.


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## bfisher (Nov 30, 2002)

moosehunter78 said:


> If you find a arrow that works great just keep what you have, No need messing up a god thing



This is always a statement I disagree with. If one does not experiment to some degree how will they ever find out what is good and what is better. Gilliland has a pretty good handle on things. You can only become so good with certain equipment. Once you attain a certain plateau it may be time to upgrade a certain piece of equipment if for no other reason than to find out if it's going to help.

Just depending on how high that plateau is a few points may be all that is gained, but it might be crucial points.

Most often, in the case of arrows, you not only gain better straightness by buying higher end, but other tolerances as well. These can sometimes spell the difference in winning vs 3rd place. Afterall, what the arrow does after it leaves the bow is what matters so higher quality and consistency can make that difference.

In the case of Gold Tips, I shoot the Pro series, but don't think it's totally necessary. A shaft that is .003" in straightness will often be .002" or less after being cut to length. Can anybody shoot well enough to tell the difference between .001 and .002? I know I can't.


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## WhitBri (Jan 30, 2007)

I know from first hand experience arrow quality does matter. I use to shoot cabelas carbon arrows until I spun some brand new arrows, they said .005 for straightness more like 1/4", so I bought the maximas, do I think you need to go top end absolutely not, but I do think you get what you pay for. I guess if the arrows you shoot do whatever it is you want them to do then keep shooting them, but it could be amazing what a better arrow will do and you don't know unless you try.


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## Nupper (Dec 31, 2003)

I would agree with Bfisher word for word. A get ask every year why I try so many diff. pieces of equipment. The truth is you never know how well something will work if you don't try. As far as arrows are concerned, I shot ACC's for along time and switched to ACE's three years ago. I will not go back, I do squeal a little when one gets poped but thats part of the game.


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## Sorgy (Aug 22, 2006)

Thank You to all for your answers. Like I said I am fairly new to this game. I am on the edge. I would like to pop for some new arrrows but I have shot the newer bows the last couple of years- No Comparison- nuff said. I most recently shot the Switchback XT. Smooth!!! But last winter I shot the Bowtechs and the XT. They all are a cut way above my current setup. I think my shooting would performe much better by spending the $ on a New or used bow.
I was really trying to find out the biggest differences in the arrows and if it would make much difference. I may see the difference in arrows with a better setup.

Thanks Again

Steve


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## Quintin66 (Feb 23, 2006)

Arrow straightness is a selling point,...only. Arrow composite quality is another thing, Cabela's extruded carbon is a far cry from woven fibre. None of us can shoot better scores based on a company's advertised "super" arrows, but we can buy more durable arrows that are suited to the task at hand. If you buy 2613's and shoot 3D, it may not be a good idea but it doesn't make the arrows bad. Figure the total grainage and spine of arrow for your poundage, and then scour the vendors for an arrow that comes in at that weight and spine, exactly. Thing about it is, when you find an arrow that is spined for your bow , it will be a premium arrow. And if you decide to buy these arrows your scores might go up a little, but not because of the arrows quality or straightness, but because you've effectively max'd the performance of the bow by getting the quickest arrow. You'll be more effective at gapping yardages with that faster arrow, meaning you'll score higher even though your yardage judgement may not have improved. Changing equipment is a major deal if you don't research first. What happens if the best arrow you find doesn't neccesarily fit the rest you like or use, then there's another change, and so on etc., etc....it's a never ending battle, but it doesn't have to be. Stick with what you know, don't beleive the advertisement hype that "you've gotta shoot this" or" ya gotta have this or you can't win". Remember, you'll get back what you put in, if you feel confident that your bow is shooting to the best of your abilities, stay put. Make your choices based on your needs, not someone elses.


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## chief razor (Apr 29, 2006)

*Little trick*

Instead of buying the PRO series arrows that are .001, purchase the lower grade (or the .006 if you shoot a very short arrow). Arrow manufactures make all of these shafts at the same time and then they are sorted into different grades and given their respective labels. 

Cut your arrows an equal length from both ends to get your desired length. Just like a carpenter will cut a bowed board at both ends to make the board straighter it will work with your arrows. 

I used to shoot Pro series GT, and was convinced to try the .003 and use this method. 

after cutting both ends I did obtain .001 straightness

The only drawback to the lower end is that you may have 2-3 arrows that are a few gn different in weight as apposed to 0-1 with a pro series, however use these as practice arrows and use the match weight when it counts. 

And believe me when I tell you that Quintin66 knows what hes talking about when it comes to using what he believes in :wink:


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## Sorgy (Aug 22, 2006)

Thanks Again. I am like a sponge soaking up the information:darkbeer: I shot again last night and I shot well. I only shoot a 27" arrow and will probably wait till spring to make the next step up. 

Lot's of Great Info 

Steve


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## Inukshuk (Aug 21, 2005)

*Arrows*

Sorgy, I too have been shooting Beman 400 Camo Hunters and have been doing quite well with them, but this year I am going to try something different. It's not an issue with the straightness of the Bemans, it's the 9.3gpi. I am going to a lighter arrow for more forgiveness of my yardage miscalculations. I'm thinking 460 Red Lines (7.3gpi).


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## Quintin66 (Feb 23, 2006)

When you consider your choice of arrow, don't just look at the shaft weight. The accesseries available for those arrows must be taken into account. They can greatly increase the weight of the arrow if not picked correctly. My arrows are only 26 1/2"


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