# Can anyone tell me about this old Jennings



## hoyt316 (Mar 7, 2006)

Its a split T but Its been years since I saw one. Plastic wheels spilt t metal wheels t- star. Year some where 1979 to 80 guess my cousin was a dealer.


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## Zurikon (Apr 10, 2013)

Cool, thank you for the info. Yeah the cams are plastic.


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## FS560 (May 22, 2002)

The Split-T with the tri-slot plastic wheels was available in 1979 and 1980. The T-Star was available in 1980 and 1981 but it had specific wheels for each draw length. The split t shot better and I converted my t-stars to split t and never looked back. The tri slot wheels allowed draw length changes along with the three separate balls on the steel cable for specific positioning of the cable in the wheel. It was not possible to get all nine DL combinations however due to overlap, but the short-short was the best performing and I just used string length for fine adjustments in DL.


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## Zurikon (Apr 10, 2013)

When you talk about these three separate balls for DL adjustment are those on the Split T? Because I'm trying to shorten this bow just one or two more inches in DL so it will fit me perfect and any more DL reduction would be awesome.


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## FS560 (May 22, 2002)

It has been a while. I am now thinking it was just one ball that, for the center position, the ball was in the center of the wheel. Your photo of the wheel is too dark for me to see very well.

The string track slots would lengthen or shorten the string and the ball position in the center of the wheel would change the length of the cable. Remembering a little better now, the ball could be positioned to one side or the other of the center position in the wheel. The stock cables had a ball locked down on the steel cable that provided the position of the cable in the wheel. I know there was a way to set the ball in three different positions because the factory provided the instructions.

Are there indents in the wheel next to the center ball position?


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## Zurikon (Apr 10, 2013)

Their does not seem to be any indents that I can see. It looks like the ball just locks the cable in place in the center of the wheel.


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## kballer1 (Aug 31, 2010)

Jim is right about using the string to shorten the draw, if it did have the ball system by moving the ball you would only get 1/2" Dl adjustment so depending how much shorter you need you can try to shorten the string that much possibly up to 2" to see if that works & that will also lower your poundage. You will want to stick with a dacron string with larger loops so you can twist them around the T swedge on the end of the cable. If I can help you more just send me a PM, I have worked on a lot of these but like Jim it has been a while.


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