# Samick Sage #40 - Easton Powerflight Arrows



## DaemonXR (Sep 17, 2013)

29 inch length/ 500 spine and for tips you want your FOC round 10-12% and you can take few tip weights and play with stability/range testing. At least this works for me. Though i would suggest aluminum Easton Gamegetter with 4 inch natural feathers.They are cheaper and very nice arrows i shoot from my 60inch Samick SHT! They are hunting arrows as far as i know but i do target practicing with them.
About Powerflights i shoot these from my PSE Rally (compound bow).

Cheers


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## Captainkirk (Sep 18, 2014)

You can find the right starting point on the chart below:

http://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/ArrowCharts.pdf

From what you've given us as info, a good starting point would be a 500gr shaft with 125gr points. But that's only a starting point. Your final tuning will be done by observing arrow flight, shortening the shafts, changing tip/insert weight and bareshaft tuning. I would recommend starting out with either full-length shafts, or at least 30" to start with. The more you shorten them, the stiffer your spine will become.
As far as vanes go, I would not shoot vanes unless you are using a plunger rest on the Sage. Most shoot off the shelf, where the preferred fletch is 3 feathers, either 4 or 5 inch. Twist is irrelevant but I would recommend some helical on your feathers over straight fletch.
Your Sage is Fast Flight compatible...but if you intend on using a FF, install it and set your brace height and nockset before you get to tuning arrows as it will change.


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## DaemonXR (Sep 17, 2013)

Captain, guy said that cutting in the fly is a problem to him! But i doubt he will experience any problems if he order these one inch past in front of riser and try. Though i am aware that some meticulously calculated combinations can deliver sweetest spot than others, i doubt he can go wrong for starter combo. Otherwise, high speed cutter IS essential or often visit to proshop if available.
Damn, to achieve that level of tunability i spend decent amount of money in equipment such is cutter, fletching jigs and arrows parts (though i build all my arrows), but i understood from OP that his budget is limited kinda.

Cheers folks


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## martha j (May 11, 2009)

I would give 1916 aluminums a try also.


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## I'm Not Ted (Feb 12, 2009)

Sorry to thread jack, but I'm in a similar spot. I'm shooting a 40# bow and I have a 29" draw. I've always liked Game getters, but now I'm not sure which size to get, seems like I remember it being easier . Anyway, I was thinking a 30" 2016 with a 100 gr. point would put me pretty dang close looking at the spine calc. 

Either way, if I get some 30" 2016's do you think that'd put me close enough that I could experiment with point weight until I get good arrow flight?


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## DaemonXR (Sep 17, 2013)

I'm Not Ted said:


> Sorry to thread jack, but I'm in a similar spot. I'm shooting a 40# bow and I have a 29" draw. I've always liked Game getters, but now I'm not sure which size to get, seems like I remember it being easier . Anyway, I was thinking a 30" 2016 with a 100 gr. point would put me pretty dang close looking at the spine calc.
> 
> Either way, if I get some 30" 2016's do you think that'd put me close enough that I could experiment with point weight until I get good arrow flight?


Why you would think you cant use Gamegetter? I shoot these from 50# samick. They are fine, at least i like how they fly. i cut mine at 29 inch/400 spine. With 100 and 125 grain point at 30 inch length your spine will fall at 400 spine as mine.


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## catboat (Aug 9, 2013)

FWIW; You may want to consider the Samick Journey. It's the same riser as the Sage, but it has longer limbs. Sage AMO = 62". Journey AMO-64". The 2" longer Journey would likely give you a smoother draw, be less likely to have stacking issues- and not too long to carry around for 3d shoots either.

Alum xx75 1916 arrows with 100 grain tip would likely work for you as an option.

May want to consider 35 lbs limbs-just for easier shooting/form work. I've learned that you don't have to put much of a lead on those 3d targets.

I'd leave the arrows full-length for now.

I shoot a 30 lb Journey off the shelf with xx75 1816 Easton Tribute and Platinum plus w/ 4" helical feathers (RH). I like it.


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## Stash (Jun 1, 2002)

I shoot a 40# Bear Kodiak Mag with 28" Gold Tip 1535 (.600 spine) with 125 gr points, 4" feathers. I just got a Samick Journey at 40# a few days ago, and these arrows fly perfectly out of this bow as well.

In your case with a little longer draw I'd agree with what most are saying and suggest a .500 spine carbon. The Powerflight 500 should be a good choice at 29".


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## I'm Not Ted (Feb 12, 2009)

I know I can use Gemegetter's, just wasn't sure which spine. 30" 400 spine is exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!



DaemonXR said:


> Why you would think you cant use Gamegetter? I shoot these from 50# samick. They are fine, at least i like how they fly. i cut mine at 29 inch/400 spine. With 100 and 125 grain point at 30 inch length your spine will fall at 400 spine as mine.


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## da1001 (Nov 7, 2014)

Thanks everyone for the info!


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## martha j (May 11, 2009)

why not buy some 700 -600-500-400-spine arrows to have on hand so you can bare shaft or paper tune or at least really wring out testing from all aspects along with 100 through 300 gr points in 25 gr increments ????????????????????????????????? it's not rocket science but you sure as don't need 400s from a 40 pound bow no matter how much you load the front. a 400 is either a 2117 aluminum or a 55-75 goldtip carbon.


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## DaemonXR (Sep 17, 2013)

martha j said:


> why not buy some 700 -600-500-400-spine arrows to have on hand so you can bare shaft or paper tune or at least really wring out testing from all aspects along with 100 through 300 gr points in 25 gr increments ????????????????????????????????? it's not rocket science but you sure as don't need 400s from a 40 pound bow no matter how much you load the front. a 400 is either a 2117 aluminum or a 55-75 goldtip carbon.


Very valid and nice advice. Oh man i wish i had internet as today, 25 years ago to be so enlightened. +1


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## I'm Not Ted (Feb 12, 2009)

Yeah, I went back and read through some of the spine charts, and it definitely seems like 2117's are too stiff. Stu Miller's spine calc has been giving me some whacky numbers though, cause it gives me those as an option. 



martha j said:


> why not buy some 700 -600-500-400-spine arrows to have on hand so you can bare shaft or paper tune or at least really wring out testing from all aspects along with 100 through 300 gr points in 25 gr increments ????????????????????????????????? it's not rocket science but you sure as don't need 400s from a 40 pound bow no matter how much you load the front. a 400 is either a 2117 aluminum or a 55-75 goldtip carbon.


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## DaemonXR (Sep 17, 2013)

@ted

Believe me, even 2016 is stiff for you (though marginal) if you want decent arrow flight stability / flight range with 10-12% FOC! I also have same config as you (40# 28" draw length), so since i own small archery club/school and have my own equipment, i tried so many configurations out of pure fun! Again, if your DL and form is true.
Though its up to you. You cant miss much and always can go down and up the spine with new set of arrows, and that does not mean that your starter dozen will not fly straight!

Cheers


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## Bustoff (Sep 3, 2014)

catboat said:


> FWIW; You may want to consider the Samick Journey. It's the same riser as the Sage, but it has longer limbs. Sage AMO = 62". Journey AMO-64". The 2" longer Journey would likely give you a smoother draw, be less likely to have stacking issues- and not too long to carry around for 3d shoots either.
> 
> Alum xx75 1916 arrows with 100 grain tip would likely work for you as an option.
> 
> ...


I use 1816's with my 40# bow. Mine are cut to 28". Those aren't too stiff from a 30# bow?


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## DaemonXR (Sep 17, 2013)

Catboat didn't specify DL, arrow length and tip weight for his combo. Though it can work, they are to stiff and some 1716 would be better choice, again regarding DL, arrow length and tip weight!
Let say they could work if 30" long with 150 grain tip or more.


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## Bill 2311 (Jun 24, 2005)

Easton XX75 1916 with a 125 tip. Nice thick wall will be pretty tough. A carbon in .600 spine will be lighter for you to use on 3D, but not good for hunting and I suspect they will break easily if you miss.
I find aluminum easier to tune than carbon. Start with a long shaft and trim 1/2" at a time until a bare shaft flies well for you.
My friend has a Journey in 40# and they work well for him.
Look at the Journey. It is a 64" version of the Sage (62"). Usually it is easier to shoot a longer bow, especially when starting out.


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## boxerjake77 (Jan 16, 2010)

I'm new to the game and pretty much suck right now, but.... I have a Samick Phantom that's 40# and I draw 28".
I tried a 500 3555 spine full length and was too stiff. I now use a 600 1535 arrow full length with 125 tip and am happy, well happier..


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