# Arrow doesn't fly straight



## 325734 (Jun 6, 2013)

Hey, so I'm still a novice archer and recently I got a recurve bow. Previously I've been shooting a compound bow and I was getting pretty good at it but I always felt like I was cheating lol. Anyway now that I have a recurve bow I notice that my arrows don't seem to fly straight. I'm shooting a 45# samick sage recurve bow with simple fiber glass arrows that I had left over from some time ago. I'm thinking it may be as simple as getting some stronger spined arrows. I have some gold tip arrows for my compound but I think they may be too short for me to shoot with my recurve. Just looking for some other opinions before I drop money on new arrows. Thanks for any advice!


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## larry tom (Aug 16, 2012)

Cosmic, one of the key bits of information in selecting an arrow, in addition to bow weight, is your draw length. In determining that, it is also better to have someone measure that for you rather than use some of the standard formulas. So we need that information from you. Secondly, it would be helpful to know what your budget is per arrow (complete) and whether you have a preference for carbon or aluminum. Thanks. Regards, LT


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## zonic (Aug 12, 2013)

You could use one of the fiberglass arrows as a measuring arrow to check your actual draw length. GT carbons are good arrows and can probably tune either a 3555 or 5575 depending on arrow length and point weight.


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## 325734 (Jun 6, 2013)

well my draw length is about 28 inches, and I'd spend about $5 on an arrow, carbon is my preference. I suppose the real question I'm asking is do you think my problem is that my arrows are too weak? or is there perhaps another issue at play?


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## Bowmania (Jan 3, 2003)

Too weak or too stiff. You tell us, by shooting bare shaft and a fletched with the same point weight. If you're right handed and the bare is left of the fletched it's stiff.

Bowmania


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## gnome (Oct 22, 2006)

GoldTip 35/55, full length, with feathers and 150gr field points, would be a good middle of the road starting point. Go up or down in point weight to tune.
I doubt the fiberglass arrows are weak, they are usually pretty stiff, unless they are kids arrows.


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## Dewey3 (May 6, 2012)

READ this about arrow selection: 

http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html

(Make sure you click on the "Learn More" links !!!)


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## RobbJ (Dec 22, 2014)

Dewey3 said:


> READ this about arrow selection:
> 
> http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html
> 
> (Make sure you click on the "Learn More" links !!!)


Thanks for sharing that, Dewey. I'm going to build a 1/2 doz arrows soon and I was looking for that exact info.


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## larry tom (Aug 16, 2012)

Cosmic, given your price point I think you would be well served with the Carbon Impact Super Club arrows, probably the 3040. Lancaster Archery sells them complete for a bit under $6 per arrow, complete with vanes, nocks, and points. You just need to glue in the points. I shot with the Super Clubs for over two years before switching to the Medallions. Here are some links. Best, LT

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/carbon-impact-super-club-arrow.html
http://www.carbonimpact.com/11_super_club_carbon_arrows.php
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2260335&highlight=superclub+arrows


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

Try plugging your information into this spine calculator and see what it tells you for spine. I find it works pretty well...http://www.3riversarchery.com/spinecalculator.asp

Alternatively, just cal 3Rivers and get their advice. Eventually you will want to tune you bow but when you are just starting out all you need is something close. Tuning requires some consistency in your form to be effective.


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