# Reading a Course



## swerve (Jun 5, 2005)

Well the one thing that I have learned over my first summer of field is that I have to be extremely anchor conscious at the longer ranges. Slight variations in anchor or face position result in point losses


----------



## itchyfinger (Jun 14, 2007)

mmmm...if it's windy I play the ball back in my stance, choke down a bit and close the face abit to counter a sweeping slice......oh wait we are talking about archery :doh:


----------



## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

itchyfinger said:


> mmmm...if it's windy I play the ball back in my stance, choke down a bit and close the face abit to counter a sweeping slice......oh wait we are talking about archery :doh:


You aren't Tiger stop trying to hit stingers


----------



## GeorgD (Nov 18, 2002)

Here's some thinks I look for and what I do on the shot...

Side-hills, look for valleys, creeks, and the flow of the land, sometimes when you get to the target you don't realize there's a side hill, but if you've looked at the lay of the land you'll remember to check closely when you get to that area.

Uphills, where's the sun? Will there be certain shots that I may have to look right at the sun at certain times. Should I try to get a starting target that will help with that?

Trees and target set up, are the targets deep in the shade? 

When I approach the shot… side-hill take notice as I approach, uphill and downhill same, look at them as I approach the target. Check the yardage before I get on the line and set my sight. Ask if anyone has an angle if it looks like it’s a steep angle. If I’m waiting to shoot I check the angle myself also. Make my adjustments on the sight for up or downhill take off. Look at the target with my binos. Is there a pattern of shots left or right? High or low? Others may not be reading the up/down/side/wind properly, I might learn from their mistakes.

Get to the line… check yardage stake again (can’t tell you how many guys I see not set their sight) set my sight. Check side-hill and target. Slightly angle my bow into the side-hill if there is one. (I will let the bow go to level at full draw) Start burning a hole in the center of the spot with my eyes and go into the shot…


----------



## itchyfinger (Jun 14, 2007)

Brown Hornet said:


> You aren't Tiger stop trying to hit stingers


maybe if you help me we could be like that Tiger Woods and his daddy


----------



## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

One thing I learned from someone a while back....

when you get to a target look at it through your binos (if you don't know the target).....if you are just practicing or if you aren't one of the first groups of the day to shoot that target, you should see a pattern on the targets.

By that I mean that if a target needs to be cut or it is one that you really need to watch your bubble on then there should be a pattern on the face.  That's right it will show up....say you need to cut 3 yds on an uphill shot....people that don't pay attention or that don't correct after their first shot will shoot everything high....if you don't pay attention to your bubble on certain shots all of the misses may be out to the left of the spot on that target. Now you know what to pay attention to when you are shooting that target. :wink: 

I have seen guys do it before and I have done it. There is a course close to me that is fairly flat the entire course...however the 30 yd target you really need to use your bubble and it doesn't look like it. I had a buddy shoot a 16 with three busted nocks one day...everything was just out at 5:00


----------



## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

itchyfinger said:


> maybe if you help me we could be like that Tiger Woods and his daddy


But I am already better then you....maybe you should be the daddy


----------



## itchyfinger (Jun 14, 2007)

Brown Hornet said:


> But I am already better then you....maybe you should be the daddy


----------



## field14 (May 21, 2002)

Reading a target doesn't happen overnight, and there is no AUTOMATIC formula!

When I approach a downhill, or sidehill or uphill target....

The first thing I do is PAY CLOSE ATTENTION to my "standing platform". 
Are my toes pointing uphill or downhill..THIS MAKES A HUGE DIFFERENCE.
Can I take my normal foot separation?
Do I have to open or close my stance to get solid footing? I have PRACTICE INTENTIONALLY having these sorts of things, and I KNOW how MY impact point is affected by these things!

Then, I "read the target face"...that is LOOK AT THE HOLES ALREADY THERE! They have a STORY TO TELL...but then again, if you haven't PROACTIVELY practiced INTENTIONALLY mis-setting your site to KNOW how far your impact point changes with how far off the setting is...reading the target all day ain't gonna help you. You gotta know YOUR setting difference if the holes are halfway between the top of the bull and the identity line...for SOME shooters, this could be 2-3 yards, and for others more or less..>YOU gotta know YOUR setup.

IF the target is shooting left or right...then you gotta KNOW, based upon your stance and how it feels if it warrants "extra bubble" or if you will go with what your have PRACTICED intentionally by INTENTIONALLY canting your bow so you KNOW how far your impact point is affected with 1/4 bubble, 1/2 bubble...how far does it move you over when canted and aiming "dead on"...and how does your STANCE affect this matrix too?

If the target is reading HIGH or LOW AND left or right...then you also have more indicators. However...you should also be smart...and PAY ATTENTION to WHO the shooters are in front of you! IF they are good shooters...you have a bit BETTER tale than if they are lower level shooters!

See, folks, this isn't ALL about speed, it isn't ALL about COMPUTER TAPES, it isn't ALL about cut charts, it isn't ALL about clinometers, It isn't ALL about COMPUTERS....it won't do a speck of good to "calculate" all this stuff, read the target correcty...but then NOT KNOW HOW YOU REACT to the other oddities that affect YOUR shot...and HOW MUCH they do at a given distance.

PROACTIVE PRACTICE pays off...cuz if you shoot dead-level all the time in IDEAL conditions, with sites set DEAD ON...you are NOT learning the things you need to KNOW....when things are NOT dead on perfect.

You gotta GIVE a little (PRACTICE off-setting) to GET A LOT!

So, after reading all this stuff...you then set your site accordingly, considering that and the WIND (if any)...set your site, play the bubble, if needed, and TRY TO SHOOT A STRONG SHOT...

Then, if you miss...you MUST KNOW if it was YOU that missed, or if you "mis-read" something and need to adjust...you MUST KNOW this...cuz if you don't...then potential miss #2 in a row is about to hit you...and TOP GUNS RARELY MISS TWO IN A ROW!

Field is a THINKING PERSON'S game...and if you don't PAY ATTENTION...your score WILL end up in the cellar! WATCH and LEARN, LISTEN and LEARN; pay attention to your surroundings..>LIGHTING can really affect you too!

field14


----------



## OA3D (Feb 26, 2007)

I need my floaties.
There is some stuff in that post ty field.

Whats an identity line?
So even if you make your bow level you can still be off?
Toes low left? Opps I'm one of them backwards shooters.


----------



## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

OA3D said:


> I need my floaties.
> There is some stuff in that post ty field.
> 
> Whats an identity line?
> ...




The identity line was new to me also....I learned about it in the crossword puzzle :wink:


----------



## field14 (May 21, 2002)

OA3D said:


> I need my floaties.
> There is some stuff in that post ty field.
> 
> Whats an identity line?
> ...


Yes, the LEFTIES have to learn to deal with things OPPOSITE from most of the READS they see....SOME OF THE TIME.

One rule of thumb on a side hill shot: Start the shot with the *TOP* LIMB TIP INTO THE HILL...then "level up" when you get on target....again TOP LIMB TIP INTO THE HILL: This applies whether toes up or toes down! However....when you "READ" the target...you gotta decide, based upon paying attention...and YOUR tendencies....whether or not to 'give it a bit of bubble'...based upon how solid or changed YOUR STANCE IS...cuz we all know that your DRAWLENGTH is correct to 1/16" RIGHT?

The "identity" line...is the line on the FIELD face in the center of the WHITE RING...If you are scoring the "expert" scoring...the target would score, 5-4-3-2-1 by those lines...we used to call it the "identity" round (slang) with deference to the top gun shooters....so, that line that splits the "4" ring was the "identity" that if you went outside of it...you would get a "3" on expert scoring! Same with the current black "3" ring...it, too has an "identity" line.

So...for example, when calling a shot for a shooter....and he shoots a "4" at 7 o'clock that is near this mid-range line....You can call this a "middle 4 at 7, OR to help more accurately call it so the shooter knows more "exactly" where the shot went: "You've got a near identity white at 7 o'clock." That tells him his arrow is WAY OUT almost to that "identity line" in the "4" ring at 7 o'clock.

Call his shot an "Black identity 3 at 7 = "3" in the black halfway at 7 o'clock.

ONE COURTESY NOT OFTEN DONE>>>>AND IT SHOULD BE>>>>>NEVER, I repeat NEVER call a person's arrow OUT LOUD when another shooter is AT FULL DRAW....what will happen is that the shooter at full draw will probably have a glitch...and their site will move in the direction of your OUT LOUD CALL!! This is NOT FAIR-PLAY...but I HAVE seen people play this to the HILT...and I will "call them" on it...even if it is NOT ME that they did this to.

MOST SHOOTERS are trying to HELP, since "I'll scratch your back if you'll scratch mine"....so the more COURTEOUS and ACCURATE you are with your calls..the better they'll respond and call for you.

CALLING ARROWS IS A TWO-WAY street...if you are NOT SURE...say so, and tell them "by eye" or what I see...you should look for yourself, I can't be sure. They'll appreciate it and your courtesy and honesty.

It is amazing how well things go when people HELP EACH OTHER during the round and not be "butt-heads"... I shot a few tournaments where the LOWEST score of ALL FOUR shooters on a half was 276 with 40X's....that was LOW END...and we were helping pump each other up, and ACCURATELY calling each other's shots the entire day.... I don't think I can ever recall more fun than that!

field14


----------



## winter86 (Feb 13, 2003)

I take a peek at the hill situation.....range it with a freakin awesome rangefinder....get the o'l monarchs out and see where everyone else hit on the target(which rarely changes where i aim/cant all that jazz)...and then just shoot it.... its really fairly easy, but i still somehow manage to lose 5-10 points all the time.


----------



## WV Has Been (Aug 9, 2002)

Reading a range is harder than ever. You have to ask was it measured with a tape or was it measured with a range finder.

If it was measured with a tape you can figure a cut on every target that the tape sags or goes over a hump. The further the target on a sag the more the cut. The bigger the hump the more the cut. 

If the range is set up with a hand held outdoors mans range finder you can throw any logic out the window. The surveyors type you can rely on but not the ones that every body is buying for archery. Best hope is to have your own range finder and shoot your marks from it and learn rather it shoots dark colored objects different than light colored objects and shoot every medium to long range target on a range.

The techno toys are forcing the use techno toys.


----------



## InAZone (Jan 13, 2004)

*Identity line....*

Hummm....is that the official term? I always called it the reference line.


----------



## GeorgD (Nov 18, 2002)

We've always called it the "Pro Line"


----------



## field14 (May 21, 2002)

WV Has Been said:


> Reading a range is harder than ever. You have to ask was it measured with a tape or was it measured with a range finder.
> 
> If it was measured with a tape you can figure a cut on every target that the tape sags or goes over a hump. The further the target on a sag the more the cut. The bigger the hump the more the cut.
> 
> ...


As long as those setting up the course use the SAME EXACT TAPE MEASURE, use STANDARD TENSION on that TAPE and a STANDARD HEIGHT, and do NOT run the tape along the GROUND...and they are STANDARD on their Stake or brick placement...there isn't a problem...but heaven help us if there are 3 or 4 tapes in use, with 6 or 8 people and some lay it on the ground others stretch it a little tight and others stretch it way tight...some measure to the FRONT Of the stake, others to the back and others to the middle....egads.

Then there is the "notorious rangefinder" measuring...Oh, my....FEW, if any will take MORE THAN ONE reading, then step forward a foot, take two or three more, and back two feet and take 3 more to find the ACTUAL distance to within 1/2 yard OR LESS...If they use a CHEAPY rangefinder...look out...especially if it is only ONE reading and "mark it"...

If the rangefinder doesn't compensate for angularity....look out.

I can't remember (too lazy to look) but I thought the NFAA course setup guidelines specify plus or minus ZERO based upon the measuring TAPE being used?

Of course...we shooters that didn't lay out that course don't KNOW this...but to me...the "technotoys" shouldn't have been allowed anyways...LEARN TO SHOOT...oh, boy...this will get me blasted to kingdom come, hahahahaha.

MOST ALL OF US CANNOT HOLD SOLID ENOUGH to know about one or two clicks...my AXCEL site says something like ONE CLICK moves the impact point like 1/64" at 20 yards...heck I cannot HOLD THAT GOOD! Same with longer distances...half the time you get your SITE SETTINGS OUT ON YOUR HOME COURSE>..who is to say THAT is correct...so of course your site tape is "off" (??????the tape off????) when you go to some other course!

Setting your site to the rangefinder isn't all bad...since at least you have ONE INSTRUMENT to use for distance determination! However....at what stage of BATTERY LIFE was that site tape taken, and where are you NOW on BATTERY LIFE....Myself, I make sure when I "check" the blocks on the course that I have FRESH BATTERIES, and when I go to a "foreign range" I also have FRESH BATTERIES....

CONSISTENCY, ONE VARIABLE, ONE CONTROL....

And FIELD SHOOTING was NOT always so frickin' SCIENTIFIC and GNAT'S A** PICKY either...used to be fun...now it is TECHNOTOYED to DEATH...and MOST shooters don't gain SQUAT from the use of the "technotoys"...but since joe pro has 'em then I MUST HAVE THEM TOO..I don't quite know how to USE the information...but I have it....and don't have the FORM or shot sequence to take FULL ADVANTAGE...but I look cool using this stuff..
field14


----------



## south-paaw (Jul 3, 2006)

field14 said:


> Yes, the LEFTIES have to learn to deal with things OPPOSITE from most of the READS they see....SOME OF THE TIME.
> 
> well great... just great !!
> and i was thinking all this was going to be easier with a new forum.......


----------



## field14 (May 21, 2002)

south-paaw said:


> field14 said:
> 
> 
> > Yes, the LEFTIES have to learn to deal with things OPPOSITE from most of the READS they see....SOME OF THE TIME.
> ...


----------



## WV Has Been (Aug 9, 2002)

field14 said:


> south-paaw said:
> 
> 
> > TOP limb INTO the hill.
> ...


----------



## field14 (May 21, 2002)

WV Has Been said:


> field14 said:
> 
> 
> > Jesse has been my side kick for many years (15) and he and I both are fortunate enough that a plum bubble is a plum bubble never saw a target the we had to give any bubble into the hill. Might be setup, might be form might even be luck.
> ...


----------



## WV Has Been (Aug 9, 2002)

field14 said:


> WV Has Been said:
> 
> 
> > Has been,,,,
> ...


----------



## archerycharlie (Nov 4, 2002)

Man at my age its hard to comprehend all this tecno stuff.:sad:

And i don't have the binos to see all the holes off the spots left right high or low. 

Also i cain't afford all the tecno toys either. 

But i am picking up things that i never new from all the posts on this new field forum all ready. Just hope i can remember it all till outdoor season next year.:wink: AC


----------



## field14 (May 21, 2002)

archerycharlie said:


> Man at my age its hard to comprehend all this tecno stuff.:sad:
> 
> And i don't have the binos to see all the holes off the spots left right high or low.
> 
> ...



Charlie,
I hope that the newbies, or mid-level shooters are NOT thinking that in order to shoot field you MUST SPEND $1,000 MORE for the electronic "techno-toys" in order to be competitive.

YOU DO NOT NEED THE ELECTRONICS TO BE COMPETITIVE in FIELD shooting...or any shooting, for that matter.

MOST of the TOP END shooters that HAVE them, USE them ONLY when they have some doubt about what they see or how they 'read' a target...OR to VERIFY what they are thinking.

In addition, the "techno-toys" are not helpful if you do NOT KNOW HOW TO USE THEM, or if you don't have the form to even know if YOU are the "miss problem" or if it really IS the cut of the target or something related to that.

MOST shooters cannot HOLD STILL ENOUGH on the target to see the difference in impact point of one or two "clicks" on the site!

Again, for the NEWBIES and those thinking that purchasing those techno-toys WILL AUTOMATICALLY LEAD TO HUGE SCORE IMPROVEMENTS...and that you NEED TO SPEND THE MONEY on them...

WEIGH the plusses and minuses...if you don't have the form and equipment knowledge to KNOW FOR SURE that it is the YARDAGE and NOT YOU....then you don't NEED those toys just yet...you aren't really ready for them...spend the money instead on a GOOD COACHING SESSION or nine.:wink::tongue:

Now...if you are shooting into the high 540's and low 550's...and KNOW YOUR FORM and EQUIPMENT...then investing in an Opti-logic and an inclinometer and printing a cut-chart...MIGHT help those few points you need to move up the ladder...MIGHT...it isn't AUTOMATIC that the yardage and cut chart is the culprit for those misses, however.

Again, I am NOT BASHING those that use the techno-toys....but you just gotta be careful when you tell others they NEED THEM or MUST HAVE them...because most of it is HYPE and salesmanship...and NOT NECESSITY just yet for MOST shooters.

Gotta walk before you can run...and the technology help is only as good as the user...that USES it correctly....just HAVING IT THERE...well...isn't enough if you don't know WHAT to USE or HOW to USE it.

field14.


----------



## VA Vince (Aug 30, 2005)

I have only shot 2 field courses. The best thing I learned was to shoot the course with someone that know's the course. Other than that, at Cumberland this year you could look at the targets and see where everyone was missing. So I will say, glass the target and see where the misses are.


----------



## AKDoug (Aug 27, 2003)

I learned quickly at Darrington to throw the OptiLogic Rangefinder in the trash. I found the book SuperX put out to be interesting but the OptiLogic cuts for some of the shots were horrible. I also learned that PalmPilots fail in the rain..too bad he didn't have a sight tape on his bow and was using clicks.

My method that I used there was to simply range the target quickly with my own trusted range finder that I used to set my marks. I just hacked a yard or two based on experience and only on the obviously BIG hills with LONG shots did I pull out my inclinometer to get a cut. In the end, the only course on the fairly hilly Darrington range that I really needed a cut chart or an inclinometer was Coyote..which I happened to shoot my best score on.


----------



## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

Range finders and especially tilt compensating range finders are a boon to the learning archer. But one must remember sight tapes and electronic devices are dependent on many things. I can’t count the number of conversations I’ve had with both experienced and new field archers about a “BAD” program tape when it wasn’t the tape that was bad, but their data. 

If your tape is not adjusted to how you shoot the different angles or you don’t know exactly how much yardage you gain or lose to the tape (because of form changes) when shooting an up/down hill shot; the tilt compensating range finder isn’t going to be of much use to you. 

The electronic device will never completely replace experience, but if properly used and combined with correct practice and experience they will help. 

I will offer this to y'all ...

Never trust someone else to range your target.. get your own range finder and tune both yourself and the tape to it... And never never trust the yardage stakes especially on the practice range...


----------



## field14 (May 21, 2002)

JAVI said:


> Range finders and especially tilt compensating range finders are a boon to the learning archer. But one must remember sight tapes and electronic devices are dependent on many things. I can’t count the number of conversations I’ve had with both experienced and new field archers about a “BAD” program tape when it wasn’t the tape that was bad, but their data.
> 
> If your tape is not adjusted to how you shoot the different angles or you don’t know exactly how much yardage you gain or lose to the tape (because of form changes) when shooting an up/down hill shot; the tilt compensating range finder isn’t going to be of much use to you.
> 
> ...


I'll add TWO more important things to this:

NEVER, I repeat, NEVER, take just ONE reading with your rangefinder and "call it good"....ALWAYS take THREE readings...and toss out the RINGER.

IF you use the rangefinder to set up your tape...DO IT WITH A NEW BATTERY IN THE RANGEFINDER...then, when going to a MAJOR TOURNAMENT...put in a NEW BATTERY each day! Oh, yes....the rangefinders' readings CAN and DO change as the battery wears down!

It still will come down to experience and verification of your gut feeling and "read" on a target...the 'techno-toys' ARE useful in the right hands, but in the wrong hands...they could cost you more points than they help with.

I agree also with Javi...it ain't a "BAD TAPE"...is is the BAD DATA.

How many of you use the 20 yarder to get the first tape setting? And I'll bet you just site in so you are into the X-ring right? You're in for a problem from the get go.....For my particular setupS (note the capital S...this means PLURAL), and past setups, I've found that I can still hit the "X-ring" on the field face....within a range of 18 clicks of my site!....yes...18 clicks.

Does this mean anything to you...18 clicks....that is plus or minus NINE clicks from supposed center....and for the 5-ring....you don't wanna know! THIS IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH to get an "accurate" tape.

Now, I personally use 30 yards...but at thirty yards...the x-ring on the field face is 14 clicks wide (up and down) FOURTEEN CLICKS, plus or minus SEVEN clicks FROM CENTER...gets me within the "range" of the X-ring at 30 yards. Obviously NOT good enough, is it?

I think you can see where this is leading....SEVEN clicks plus or minus isn't good enough! Not if you want a GOOD TAPE!

You need to find a means to get at CONTROL of that vertical impact point to within a couple of clicks...and a NARROW HORIZONTAL TAPE, IMHO, is the way to go...UNLESS you are shooting in the higher 550+ range...then your HOLD is solid enough to KNOW.

Also, I'd recommend siting in to "cover" your tendencies...I tend to sag low as I tire...so, I site in at the TOP HALF of the "3/8" horizontal tape" I use to get settings on at 30 yards, and the top half of the tape I use at 65 yards...>I want my arrows at 30 yards touching the top portion of that tape...and "click" from the main setting until I get them there.

FOR ME...and it might NOT work for you...the horizontal tape method allows me to concentrate on VERTICAL control and not trying to hold on the bullseye for site settings....it also stops me from wrecking arrows too, hahaha.

You might try using a narrow horizontal tape to use for site settings...choose the tape width according to how well you can hold vertically, but TRY to keep the tape width SMALLER than the X-ring...that way, you are DEFINITELY sited in within the confines of that X. If you are like me and tend to sag low...COVER THIS...by siting in at the upper part of the tape.

It is amazing how INACCURATE you can "accept" a site setting....those 18 clicks are a TON when you get down range....and then wonder why you have a "bad tape"....when in fact....you have BAD DATA...cuz you "rushed it" and didn't "click around" to find the CENTER...

You see, if you rush job your site settings and don't VERIFY THEM...then you've rush jobbed your site tape too...and it will BURY your score and make you say as the excuse, "I had a bad SITE TAPE." Oh, really?

field14


----------



## SuperX (May 21, 2002)

AKDoug said:


> I learned quickly at Darrington to throw the OptiLogic Rangefinder in the trash. I found the book SuperX put out to be interesting but the OptiLogic cuts for some of the shots were horrible. I also learned that PalmPilots fail in the rain..too bad he didn't have a sight tape on his bow and was using clicks.
> 
> My method that I used there was to simply range the target quickly with my own trusted range finder that I used to set my marks. I just hacked a yard or two based on experience and only on the obviously BIG hills with LONG shots did I pull out my inclinometer to get a cut. In the end, the only course on the fairly hilly Darrington range that I really needed a cut chart or an inclinometer was Coyote..which I happened to shoot my best score on.


Don't be dogging the Opti-Logics you better check your setup - those cuts worked perfectly :wink:  Maybe your range finder and the Opti-Logic one I used were not the same.

Seriously, what works for one may not work for another. Even using pure moxy like we have to do on FITA Field (no toys allowed at all - not even a cut chart) two archers shooting essentially the same speed and arrows have to cut totally different. Jamie and I are pretty close on speed and I cut WAY more than she does.

You telling me you shot that 53y uphill on Bobcat dead nuts on? :tongue:


----------



## Hinkelmonster (Oct 25, 2004)

I'd like to make a couple points here! 

The first one is to AKDoug and SuperX regarding the Opti-Logic Cut BOok at Darrington. While I do not own one, in my limited use of these, I'm not impressed in the least. And I too found the OL Cuts in the book to be off. But in defense of that same cut book. Alot of those targets depend on what stake you are standing at (either RT or LT) because some times there was a difference of 2 feet of height from one to another. Secondly where is the target hung in relation to the target butt itself. Is it Top, Middle or Bottom from when it was ranged to where it is now. Next, are you shooting the top or bottom target? The top on an uphill like the bottom on a down hill will yeild different results. Lastly, how tall are you???? I know that Benilli Pestilli and I shot together 3 days and we got alot of readings that were different simply due to hieght difference. Now are we talking enough to cause a 4? Absolutely not but if you compile 2 or more of these items above and/or a weak shot. Well let's just say "FORE"!

As for reading/judging a course:

I have never been one to trust the holes in a target. Can they tell you a story as 14 states above? YES. Can that story be grossly misinterpretted? YES!!! I don't trust others, only myself!!!! Because I am the only constant. I only "KNOW" with certain, whether to trust or not trust that 1st shot, only I know that on a step up hill that my dots likes to sit at the bottom of the dot, so I don't always cut it as much as I should. Now this is not saying that I'M the be all to end all and the grand poobah, but I can tell you that 14 hi the nail dead square on the head..........................................

*PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE!!! *

You have to trust your equipment, and you have to trust "YOURSELF"!

All of these "techno" gadgets are not needed to shoot well, just look at this years PRO Champion Jessie B. No inclinometer, no rangefinder, no palm pilot, no fat arrows, just a bow, a GOOD set of bino's and a pile of X's!!!!

But they can help you.........IF you let them!!!


----------



## Indianbullet (Jan 18, 2003)

ttt

old post i stumbled on to, others may like to brush up on some of the fundamentals


----------



## Jbird (May 21, 2002)

*Shoot and Learn*

One thing that I have learned about shooting side hills and poor footing is to
make sure you don't let the terrain force you into shooting with tension in your body. If you pre load into the hill, come to level and you feel weird, don't shoot! A poor result will be certain. You have to get comfortable and shoot a relaxed, strong shot. If you are comfortable and shoot a strong shot it will suprise you how little you need to cut targets. Yes some have to be cut but very few in my experience. Most courses we shoot up here rarely require more than 1/2 a yard and even with no cut a good strong shot will still
get you a five.

Jbird


----------



## mag41vance (Mar 13, 2008)

Very good thread. Alot of good suggestions. I would add before you shoot always speak out loud the yardage and the pin - gap you need.

I liked the one of checking the target for an obvious pattern, and shoot comfortably. I have had several good rounds going only to get to a target where I can't get comfortable and drop 2 out of the box.
Dropping 2 with your first 2 is very nerve-racking.


----------



## Unclegus (May 27, 2003)

Thank you Old Great and Wise Hornet for starting this thread. It would be wonderful if we had a new one with this much information everyday. This is about as good as it gets.......
Yes, I love the "I had a bad sight tape"......It's our equivalent of I miss guessed the yardage....


----------



## mag41vance (Mar 13, 2008)

Unclegus said:


> Thank you Old Great and Wise Hornet for starting this thread. It would be wonderful if we had a new one with this much information everyday. This is about as good as it gets.......
> Yes, I love the "I had a bad sight tape"......It's our equivalent of I miss guessed the yardage....



and putts always break toward the water...............yea right. That one has gotten me a bunch.


----------

