# Samick sage or "sage 2"/spyder



## oldnewby (Oct 13, 2015)

I have the Spyder Sage 2, but I have not shot the regular Sage so I can't compare it to that. It's a nice light bow with a comfortable grip that that shoots and handles nicely. Nothing wrong with it. Looks exactly like the Sage but with flush limb bolts and a small red stripe laminated down the riser.


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## oldnewby (Oct 13, 2015)

PS: Watch out about going too heavy if you are just getting used to recurves after a compound. There is a big difference between holding a 55# recurve at full draw and holding a 70# compound at full draw. Try it and you will see.


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## Boxerguy8888 (Jan 20, 2015)

oldnewby said:


> PS: Watch out about going too heavy if you are just getting used to recurves after a compound. There is a big difference between holding a 55# recurve at full draw and holding a 70# compound at full draw. Try it and you will see.


Does the spyder come pre drilled for sight/rest like the original sage? I've heard about the draw weight difference compared to compound. Would 45# be pushing too much?

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## oldnewby (Oct 13, 2015)

Yes it is predrilled with brass bushings for rest and sight. And also a stabilizer if you want one. 

As to draw weight, how much weight do you think you are holding at full draw with your 70#compound bow? 20#? 25#? You will have to get used to holding more weight than that. Even 35 pounds would take some getting used to. 45 would probably be too much until you are used to it. Remember that it is a matter of whether you can aim solidly and have good form while holding that full-draw weight. Once you are used to it and are ready to move up, heavier limbs can be ordered. They will cost maybe $90.


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## Halfcawkt (Dec 27, 2015)

I think for a new guy, 30-40# is about right if you are healthy with no prior shoulder injuries or the like. 45# may prove a little much. You need lots of string time to get good. 45# may feel okay for a few ends, but it may prove to tire you out real quick during say, an NFAA 300 round. 

If you tire too quickly, that is when your form suffers. If not coming to full draw for half the session, you will not have consistent poi.
You will get frustrated, have way less fun, and be tempted to possibly quit all together. If truly bit by the bug, you will not quit when you should in the stamina department.

A take down like the sage or journey is a good choice. Limb swaps are not only possible as you get stronger, but limbs are easy to find due to thier popularity. Add weight slowly, and your progress will not only happen faster, but you will have a solid foundation and hit your intended mark more reliably than the guy that jumped into that heavy bow in the beginning.


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## Boxerguy8888 (Jan 20, 2015)

oldnewby said:


> Yes it is predrilled with brass bushings for rest and sight. And also a stabilizer if you want one.
> 
> As to draw weight, how much weight do you think you are holding at full draw with your 70#compound bow? 20#? 25#? You will have to get used to holding more weight than that. Even 35 pounds would take some getting used to. 45 would probably be too much until you are used to it. Remember that it is a matter of whether you can aim solidly and have good form while holding that full-draw weight. Once you are used to it and are ready to move up, heavier limbs can be ordered. They will cost maybe $90.


The obsession is 80% let off. My hoyt I believe is 70% let off. I'll probably start at 35-40# I like the reviews of the original sage but the. Spyder is supposed to have a more refined, more comfortable riser, really the only thing that makes me want it slightly more than the original. I dont really care about having flush limb bolts.

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## Boxerguy8888 (Jan 20, 2015)

Halfcawkt said:


> I think for a new guy, 30-40# is about right if you are healthy with no prior shoulder injuries or the like. 45# may prove a little much. You need lots of string time to get good. 45# may feel okay for a few ends, but it may prove to tire you out real quick during say, an NFAA 300 round.
> 
> If you tire too quickly, that is when your form suffers. If not coming to full draw for half the session, you will not have consistent poi.
> You will get frustrated, have way less fun, and be tempted to possibly quit all together. If truly bit by the bug, you will not quit when you should in the stamina department.
> ...


I've read a lot of post of people who didn't listen and went straight to the higher weight and regretted it. I shoot 70# compound, could probably be shooting 80# I'm relatively not ancient at the age of 35. No shoulder injury, but I'm gonna take good advice when it's given and go for 35#/40 at most. I don't have any lefty buddies that I could try theirs but I think that's a good starting point for me.

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## Tereva (Feb 12, 2015)

Hey Boxer,

My 2 cents : 

- Like everybody else said it already go light. I went 30# and I am very happy about that. Holding 30# on a recurve or pulling 70# with a 80% left off is *not* the same thing at all.

- I have a Sage. I love it. It's probably the best bang for the buck. I personally like how it looks, and I certainly shoot the same than others using riser 5 times more expensive. And when I do not it is because of me, not because of the bow.
This being said, if I had to redo it, I would not buy a Sage and go for an ILF rig instead.
A bit more expensive, but more flexible and you can reuse the limbs.
After it is your call, but if you catch the virus, you will probably be looking for another riser in 6 months : )

In any case, have fun and shoot straight !

Cheers,


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## r.spencer (Jun 20, 2009)

i traded my bowtech for a longbow. went with 40 lbs.and never regreted it.i have nan older shakespear recurve in 45lbs. and a martin x200 at 55lbs. I can shoot the 45 recurve pretty well after about 3 months on the longbow. Going to be awhile (like next year) before i am comfortable with the Martin. Start slow and work on form.
Now to your original question, I bought my daughter (11) a sage at 45 lbs. Nice bow. Only complaint is the factory string sucks. the serving came loose and the loops also came unserverd. Had to work on it. She is pretty decent at 10 yrds. ok at 15 and 20 yrds is a mess. she is a likttle ov er bowed and it shows after shooting 10 , 15, then 20 yrds. she tires pretty quick and it shows.
Start light and work your way up. Get 35 lb limbs and when you are comfortable buy some 45lbs and you should be set. You cn
an always go b ack to the 35lb for some bowfishing fun


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## 2rott (Dec 5, 2011)

Like everyone is saying, go light. I have the Sage TD & love it. If you want to learn to shoot with proper form start lighter than you think you need, like 30 -35 lbs & u can always PU heavier limbs if you need them.
t


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## Boxerguy8888 (Jan 20, 2015)

Think I'm going with the original sage and I'll start at #35. Thanks for all the input.

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## treedoctor (Feb 26, 2010)

Good choice..I went with a Samick Journey at 40# and am going to get either 30 or 35# limbs for indoor target..I'm coming from compounds as well.
Good luck!!

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## Boxerguy8888 (Jan 20, 2015)

Update. Went to my club and one of the older guys offered me a tradtech he's had forever and never got to using for $85, it's only 30# but is ILF. So I'm taking the deal. He can't remember the model but paid a lot more for it new, just rather see it get used I guess. At 76 he doesn't shoot as much anymore but still gets around. Cool guy. So we have a shoot tomorrow and I'm helping set up so he's bringing it in then. I'll post pics and stuff when I get it.

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## Boxerguy8888 (Jan 20, 2015)

Update #2. He was wrong it actually is a Samick sage. #30. Still a good deal. And I'm glad I didn't go with 40# would have been too much to start with.

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## TGbow (Jun 24, 2016)

Boxerguy8888 said:


> Update #2. He was wrong it actually is a Samick sage. #30. Still a good deal. And I'm glad I didn't go with 40# would have been too much to start with.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk


The Sage is a great shooting bow. You can get heavier limbs later for $70.


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## JasonJ (Feb 10, 2016)

Boxerguy8888 said:


> Update #2. He was wrong it actually is a Samick sage. #30. Still a good deal. And I'm glad I didn't go with 40# would have been too much to start with.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk


This is still a good thing. ILF bow for $85 woulda been sweet, a 30# Sage for the same, I'd take that all day long. I have a 55# Browning compound, and moving to a 35# Sage.. it's almost too much weight for me right now... hard to stay consistent enough to work on form and not short-draw the bow. 

I think you'll be perfectly set up at 30# to learn to shoot on a trad bow. Since you saved a good amount on the bow, spend the cash on proper arrows spined for that weight bow. I mean, GOOD arrows. You can't get away with largely overspined arrows on a 30# Sage like you could on any compound. 

Good luck and have fun!


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## Boxerguy8888 (Jan 20, 2015)

JasonJ said:


> This is still a good thing. ILF bow for $85 woulda been sweet, a 30# Sage for the same, I'd take that all day long. I have a 55# Browning compound, and moving to a 35# Sage.. it's almost too much weight for me right now... hard to stay consistent enough to work on form and not short-draw the bow.
> 
> I think you'll be perfectly set up at 30# to learn to shoot on a trad bow. Since you saved a good amount on the bow, spend the cash on proper arrows spined for that weight bow. I mean, GOOD arrows. You can't get away with largely overspined arrows on a 30# Sage like you could on any compound.
> 
> Good luck and have fun!


Yea I'm really happy with the deal and it's in mint condition. Doubt it's ever been shot once. And SO glad I listened about the draw weight! On compound I can pull 70# all day, whole different story on recurve! I personally prefer carbon arrows and from what I've read I want 500 spine at 30in for my draw. Is there a reason people don't use normal sights or rests instead of the ones that are just a little wire or sights that are just two bars with a pin. Is that a compatibility thing or just to stay more traditional? And since my bow is drilled to accept a rest, could I then in theory use non feather arrows? Im sure I'm not nearly the first person to ask this stuff but traditional is new to me.

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## Boxerguy8888 (Jan 20, 2015)

ttt

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## Tereva (Feb 12, 2015)

Boxerguy8888 said:


> YAnd SO glad I listened about the draw weight! On compound I can pull 70# all day, whole different story on recurve!


It is so funny to see how is it difficult for ppl transitioning from compound to believe this before they try a recurve : )
Glad you did the right thing.



Boxerguy8888 said:


> Is there a reason people don't use normal sights or rests instead of the ones that are just a little wire or sights that are just two bars with a pin. Is that a compatibility thing or just to stay more traditional?


For me, it's not really about "staying traditional" (whatever it means when you use composite or metal bows with carbon arrows ; ) ), than keeping the rig simple. When I want to shoot my Sage, the only thing I have to do is to string the bow. No fancy rest, release or sight to worry about. I can worry less about the bow and enjoy more shooting it.
Would I be more accurate with a sight : probably. Do I care, not at all : )

Cheers,

T.


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## Boxerguy8888 (Jan 20, 2015)

Tereva said:


> It is so funny to see how is it difficult for ppl transitioning from compound to believe this before they try a recurve : )
> Glad you did the right thing.
> 
> 
> ...


It is an odd feeling. You draw back and at first it seems normal, gets heavier and heavier and your half way waiting for it to dip over and that weight to go away but it never does. Feel like a little girl after I start getting tired from 30# lol! Really glad I started low. May I ask type of arrows you use? I'm 27 draw 30# I'm thinking carbon, 500 spine at 30in?

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## stringstack (Jun 10, 2016)

Edit, noticed you bought the bow already. Personally I would go with the heaviest arrows possible with that bow and for a 30# bow I would shoot for an arrow that weighs in the 400 grain arrow if you plan on hunting. 

Reason being is that when using a relatively low draw weight you really want to maximize the effeciency of the bow and a heavy arrow is much better for hunting and will make your bow very quiet. I know personally for my red stag that if I use 13GPP arrows with a 8" + brace height it becomes spooky quiet, literally dead quiet. 

If someone try's to steer you on the lighter faster thing for hunting just ask yourself what hits harder, a piece of rebar traveling 20mph into a deer's shoulder or a broom stick traveling 80mph. 

Good luck on your journey.


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## piccoloj (May 22, 2016)

I'm shooting 500 spine arrows at 36# right now, but I feel they're still a little stiff. Gonna get some 600 spine arrows and try em out. According to the charts, that 30# bow should be correct with 600 spine as well.


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## Tereva (Feb 12, 2015)

Boxerguy8888 said:


> It is an odd feeling. You draw back and at first it seems normal, gets heavier and heavier and your half way waiting for it to dip over and that weight to go away but it never does. Feel like a little girl after I start getting tired from 30# lol! Really glad I started low. May I ask type of arrows you use? I'm 27 draw 30# I'm thinking carbon, 500 spine at 30in?
> 
> Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk


Yes, it's a humbling experience for sure : )
Do not worry though, you will get used to the 30# really fast. Soon you will be able to hold full draw for "as long as you want to".

As for my arrows : my DL is 28''1/3 and I am using a plastic bear rest glued on the side. I am using GoldTip "traditional" 500 arrows with a 125grain point.
I am pretty bad at the matching arrow games because I did not dive too much into it, but my arrows mostly land close to where I am pointing so they should not be that bad.

One thing that makes a BIG difference is the change the default string. It will make the bow quieter and with with also no vibration. 

Cheers,

T.


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## Boxerguy8888 (Jan 20, 2015)

Thanks for all the good info. I won't be using this bow to hunt this year, I'll be using my obsession for that. Maybe next season. Mostly got this bow to play around at my club on 3D and stuff. A lot of the guys use traditional there. As for the string it was already upgraded to a Flemish something or other. I think for now I will go with a good tab, and ok arrows and stick with the cheaper rest and sight. I was surprised at how bare the classifieds are for traditional items, especially lefty gear. 

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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

Boxerguy8888 said:


> It is an odd feeling. You draw back and at first it seems normal, gets heavier and heavier and your half way waiting for it to dip over and that weight to go away but it never does. Feel like a little girl after I start getting tired from 30# lol! Really glad I started low. May I ask type of arrows you use? I'm 27 draw 30# I'm thinking carbon, 500 spine at 30in?
> 
> Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk


You want an ultralight 600 (GT Warrior is cheap and good) left full length if you want a heavier arrow, same shaft in a .700 if you want it lighter. The difference will be point weight required to tune: over 150gr on the .600 and under 100gr with the .700, 2" feathers for either one.

Grant


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## Boxerguy8888 (Jan 20, 2015)

grantmac said:


> You want an ultralight 600 (GT Warrior is cheap and good) left full length if you want a heavier arrow, same shaft in a .700 if you want it lighter. The difference will be point weight required to tune: over 150gr on the .600 and under 100gr with the .700, 2" feathers for either one.
> 
> Grant


I did end up going with these in 600 spine.

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## dcz (Feb 13, 2019)

All the comments seem to be about the Sage. Has anyone tried the Spyder?


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## wmkimura (Apr 30, 2018)

dcz said:


> All the comments seem to be about the Sage. Has anyone tried the Spyder?


I have the Spyder and functionally it's the same as the Sage. Even the limbs interchange. The major difference is a red stripe in the riser and slightly more radius on the riser's edges.


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