# Looking to get back into compound target shooting



## cbrunson (Oct 25, 2010)

Do you want to shoot compound or recurve?

Alot can be said either way. There are usually many possibilities with compound bows and accessories in the classifieds here. You would be able to cut the cost considerably that way.


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## JF from VA (Dec 5, 2002)

What target venues do you want to shoot? Equipment rules vary considerably among the national target organizations (target, field, 3-D, etc). USA Archery (target) is probably the simplest with just compound and recurve. The other organizations get more complex depending on what you want to hang on your bow.


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## evilc66 (Jun 25, 2015)

I'm looking to get back into compound shooting, like I stated in the title of the thread. I have no real interest in field or 3D, so my primary focus is target.


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## montigre (Oct 13, 2008)

Your best bet would be to check with your local archery clubs. Some may offer classes with equipment rental/lease to get you started and when you're ready to start shooting at some local leagues or competitions, they would also be able to advise you on what equipment may be better suited for your level of shooting. The website for the MI Archery Assoc is: http://www.michiganarchersassociation.com/ 

Welcome back to the sport. BTW, here in the states, Field and 3D are both considered "target" shooting....


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## evilc66 (Jun 25, 2015)

Fair enough. Let's call it "Olympic Style" target shooting then 

Thanks for the link to the local association. That will help tremendously.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

Just to be clear, if you say "Olympic style" people will think you're referring to recurve shooting since that's all the Olympic committee allow.

If you'll use FITA/WA Compound, NFAA Compound, people will have more of an idea of what you're looking for.

Are you looking for indoor or outdoor competition?


You are right, there is a significant focus on hunting setups instead of target. This makes it difficult for the newbie or reentry into the sport without significant research and stress.

Equipment? Oh, where to start...lol The same as 20 years ago, PSE and Hoyt are still top players that have target lines that are easy to research, test, acquire. Wile there are other companies such as Elite, Prime etc they're generally not as easy to acquire. Even the Bowtech line, when shops have them, the target models are few.

Getting into what is and isn't allowed- There is a simple solution, just figure out what you want on your bow, then read through the classes. If you post a "Which class" thread, list what you want on your bow, there will be many well informed shooters that can help.


Bows are such a personal choice that you can have a thread only on that and each response can give a different bow and why...same as the rest of the equipment but that choice is first based on which class you shoot. 

So, I'll start with my personal general bow choice

PSE Supra...great choice for any class, inexpensive to acquire. There are a lot of other bows but this one is liked by many shooters. While it's not the fastest it's plenty fast for all styles, it's mid sized, fits a lot of people.


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## Joe Ryan (Jun 8, 2014)

Here's a suggestion I give to beginners, as I work out of a local shop and give lessons to ALL types of shooters. Don't look for an aggressive bow (speed bow ). Number 1, they are less forgiving, and usually more expensive. You're only shooting 20 yds so speed is a non factor. Number 2, look for a bow with a wide range of draw length and draw weight. Number 3, find an instructor and stick with him/her for a while. The instructor dosent have to be a top level coach, but bouncing from one to another early on will only lead to confusion. As for the bow, I highly recommend the Matthews Mission Series as a perfect entry level bow, particularly the Mission HYPE. It has all the adjustability you'll ever need for about $350. Add a simple drop-away rest and a single pin sight, thumb trigger release ( cheap to start ). Some cheap arrows and you're good to go. You can always upgrade components as you progress, especially the release ). Hope this helps.... Joe


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## evilc66 (Jun 25, 2015)

Thanks everyone for all the suggestions and advice. The bigger picture is starting to come into focus now.

So, am I correct in assuming that Mission is like Mathews' budget brand? Where does the advantage come in with the more expensive bows?

The Mission Hype certainly looks like it would be a good fit with a lot of adjustability, and a price that is tolerable. Is it worth the extra couple of dollars for the DT version with the string stop and the harmonic stabilizer?


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## Joe Ryan (Jun 8, 2014)

The DT version has a vibration dampener to reduce vibration ( noise). Helps hunters, ditto for string stop. Save the $$ and use it on a quality back tension release. Until such time that you want to seriously compete, this is about as good as it gets. Eventually you'll want a long stabilizer (30") and competition level sticks. Mission is entry level Matthews, is light, very smooth, and a stable shooting platform. Competition bows that fit your purpose are machined to very tight tolerances and have several types of cams designed for specific purposes. Figure $1200-1500 range. The good news is that you can hand down the Hype to your kids and transfer components from one bow to another. I have a favorite Surelock sight that has ridden many a bow!... Start looking for PERSONAL instruction. THATS your best investment!!! Joe


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## Mahly (Dec 18, 2002)

For target archery, I would suggest looking at the longer ATA bows available. I'd start looking at 35-37" and go up from there (especially if you have a long draw length).
SOME prefer a shorter bow, but looking at the vast majority of shooters doing well (pros etc) longer bows are the overwhelming favorite.

A used bow, provided it's in good condition can get you in very cheap.

You won't need a lot of draw weight to kill paper and known yardages...skip the 70 lb bows and go with something your can shoot for a long time without fatigue.
Long stabs make shooting nicer, start with small amounts of weight, and experiment from there. give each change a proper amount of time to prove or disprove itself.
If you can, find a coach, A good coach is worth more than any amount you spend on equipment.
Just getting back into it, you don't need to most expensive arrows either.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

A used bow in the 37-40" range with easily adjustable draw length and 60# limbs is what you wanR.E.M.

WA/FITA has only one Compound equipment category, so skip right into that. Frequently complete ready to go setups are sold for half of what the new bow cost.
I got a Vantage Elite ready to compete for $550 on here 6 months back, turned around and sold the lens for $300. Cheapest bow I've ever bought.

Grant


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## evilc66 (Jun 25, 2015)

Mahly said:


> For target archery, I would suggest looking at the longer ATA bows available. I'd start looking at 35-37" and go up from there (especially if you have a long draw length).
> SOME prefer a shorter bow, but looking at the vast majority of shooters doing well (pros etc) longer bows are the overwhelming favorite.
> 
> A used bow, provided it's in good condition can get you in very cheap.
> ...


I was planning on going in for the 50# range, just due to the fact that my back and shoulders aren't in the best shape at the moment, so I didn't see a need to abuse myself.

What advantage do you get from the longer ATA length? I noticed that cost rises quickly with the longer bows.



grantmac said:


> A used bow in the 37-40" range with easily adjustable draw length and 60# limbs is what you wanR.E.M.
> 
> WA/FITA has only one Compound equipment category, so skip right into that. Frequently complete ready to go setups are sold for half of what the new bow cost.
> I got a Vantage Elite ready to compete for $550 on here 6 months back, turned around and sold the lens for $300. Cheapest bow I've ever bought.
> ...


Sounds like a great deal. I'm looking through the classifieds and will be keeping my eyes open for a good deal or two.


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## Mahly (Dec 18, 2002)

The primary benefit of longer ATA bows is better fit. A longer bow is slightly more stable, but the contact points at full draw (say nose to string etc) are easier to get without tipping your head or getting too long of a draw length.
Peep being closer to the eye is nice as well.

There is also less string angle if your concerned about thinks like nock pinch. That lower string angle also allows you more control over your anchor position by being able to adjust the d-loop release where it needs to be. On a shorter bow, I always find myself needing to add a little to the DL to hit my contact points, but making my loop/release as short as possible to hit my anchor.


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## evilc66 (Jun 25, 2015)

That makes sense with regard to string and peep sight position. I used to shoot a peep sight when I was younger, and it was great for consistency. I'm just not sure I can justify the extra expense at the moment for a longer bow. If I can find a good deal on a used bow, then so be it, but new bows in the 38-40" range are triple the cost of that Mission Hype.


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## Mahly (Dec 18, 2002)

I got my current spot (bow 40+" ATA) with extra limbs, mods, pockets manuals and strings here in the classifieds for $300.
They are out there.


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## cbrunson (Oct 25, 2010)

Another thing I would add to Mahly's statement is that buying target bows through the classifieds here is much less of a risk than hunting bows in my opinion. Target shooters tend to take really good care of their equipment. Not that hunters don't by any means. Just that most target bows haven't been drug through the brush and thrown in the back of a truck.

You can basically get a three to five year old bow that ran about $1500 bare when it was new for about the same as a new entry level hunting bow. I sold a bow on here that was the same bow that set an outdoor world record a few years back for $350. Those bows are still very capable. In fact, the Mathews Conquest 4 is still one of the most popular target bows used by top level pros. They can be had for $300-$400 used and you can easily get limbs and cams for them.


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## evilc66 (Jun 25, 2015)

So, I've seen a few Conquest 4's in the classifieds. One is a 2009, and another is a 2013. What have been the major changes in the different model years, and is the newer bow worth the extra cost provided the overall condition is the same?


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## Dave V (Aug 13, 2008)

Mahly said:


> I got my current spot (bow 40+" ATA) with extra limbs, mods, pockets manuals and strings here in the classifieds for $300.
> They are out there.


I have one for sale at my local archery shop for around that price as well. Keep looking they're out there.


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## cbrunson (Oct 25, 2010)

evilc66 said:


> So, I've seen a few Conquest 4's in the classifieds. One is a 2009, and another is a 2013. What have been the major changes in the different model years, and is the newer bow worth the extra cost provided the overall condition is the same?


No major differences.


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## wannaBelkhuntin (Jul 3, 2006)

There is an Elite E35 green target model on Ebay complete with everything sight, rest, stabilizers and GT arrows. Even the buy it now price is reasonable if you add up everything that you get. I sold my E35 a few weeks ago and regret it everyday. It is a sweet, easy shooting bow.


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

Get a target bow out of the classifieds that has a target sight and a full set of stabilizers on the bow, you should be able to get a nice fully set up for a really nice price. 

Then get yourself a hinge or thumb trigger release, I can help you pick one and get up and running with the one you choose with articles on how to shoot them and answer any questions you may have.

As far as arrows I am not sure what you are trying to do but it sounds like you are wanting to shoot indoor at 20 yards and this means you need to get some fat maximum diameter arrows such as the gold tip xxx shafts with heavy 150 to 250 grain points. Again look in the classifieds and you can get some for a good price used. They last forever shooting indoor so getting used ones is ok.


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

I would suggest getting a target bow that has rotating mods so that you can adjust your draw length easily instead of having to buy different cams or modules. There are many choices out there that have this ability.


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