# Wanting to paint bow limbs



## bowtech94 (Jan 7, 2010)

The limbs are camo and i'm getting ready to paint the bow and the camo will not match, so I need help on how to paint them. Or if I could get them dipped or powdercoated for cheap that would be an idea


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## DBLLNGR (Mar 15, 2007)

you cant do powdercoating due to the heat there are some painting options you can do I use a paint that we have for the plastic noses on our racecar it has a flex agent in it so it wont crack


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## bowtech94 (Jan 7, 2010)

Kind of like a bumper paint?


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## bowtech94 (Jan 7, 2010)

ttt


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## rock74 (Jan 8, 2012)

yes bumper paint, we use it on fishing rods and it dont crack.


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## bowtech94 (Jan 7, 2010)

Where would be the best place to get it?


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## bowtech94 (Jan 7, 2010)

Ttt


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## DBLLNGR (Mar 15, 2007)

any parts store will have it I believe homodepot has it also


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## bowtech94 (Jan 7, 2010)

ttt


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## bowtech94 (Jan 7, 2010)

Ttt


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## bowtech94 (Jan 7, 2010)

Ttt. I know someone out there knows how to do this and can give me advice


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## HawgEnvy (Mar 2, 2011)

sand the limbs with a fine grit sand paper to scuff the surface then go over it. I took all the finish off mine,hit it with auto primer then did several coats Krylon satin black and it never cracked,chipped or peeled.


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## nimrod-100 (Jan 11, 2006)

HawgEnvy said:


> sand the limbs with a fine grit sand paper to scuff the surface then go over it. I took all the finish off mine,hit it with auto primer then did several coats Krylon satin black and it never cracked,chipped or peeled.


Yep, that´s the way I did it also with mine and the satin black does not only look great it also does not crack or chip.


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## bowtech94 (Jan 7, 2010)

Thanks guys, did yall spray a clear on them?


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## BHD13 (Jun 8, 2011)

i do a lot of painting and if u do a scuff and shoot u must make shure when u sand u get any shine off the limbs or you prime wont bond.


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## HawgEnvy (Mar 2, 2011)

bowtech94 said:


> Thanks guys, did yall spray a clear on them?


I didnt . I liked the look w/o clear. Not to glossy,not to dull. That's why I went w satin instead of gloss,semi-gloss or flat


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## Sleipnir (Dec 22, 2011)

Someone showed me this link

Thought I'd share

Apparently works well with bows too
http://www.duckhuntingchat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36000


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## bfoot (Dec 30, 2009)

bowtech94 said:


> Ttt. I know someone out there knows how to do this and can give me advice



I have painted a ton of them and they look as good as from the manufacturer. Here's how:

1. strip the limb using acetone or any regular stripper. You do not have to worry about delamination if you do not leave it on for hours. Just leave it on for 15min, scrape with a plastic (never metal) paint scraper. First try usually gets the camo dip off and you need to do it again to get the primer or paint off. I would never ever sand a limb until fully stripped and then with 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Any scratches will show up when painted. Also never use any type power sander etc. It is not hard to strip everything off with stripper. When nearly clean of paint etc, use paint thinner to wash it and get everything off.

2. Then, sand with wet/dry paper until smooth as silk

3. Put on two or three coats of plastic primer. I count one coat as three light coats a couple minutes apart. This is the instruction on the can. Let dry between coats and wet sand lightly with 800 grit paper wet. I do this between each coat of primer and paint. So, you prime, sand, prime, sand ,prime, sand, paint, sand ,paint,sand, paint, sand.
4.For the finishing coat, I use a matte polyurethane spay to make sure the finish is hard.
5. Let dry a week before putting on the bow. I know the can says overnight or whatever, but it takes that long for the paint to fully harden. If you do it too soon you will scratch the paint.

The real issue is taking the time to do it right. Light coats - never let it drip! Wet sand between coats - if there is the slightest scratches you will have to sand off nearly all of your first two coats of primer. It is imperative not to scratch the limbs to get a professional looking result. I use bumper paint from Auto Zone plastic primer from there also. Polyurethane clear matte spray for metal or plastic not for wood. 

I strip the risers and take to a local custom motorcycle shop. Costs me about $30 to have riser, limb pockets, string stop powder coated. End up with a professional looking job and save over a hundred bucks.


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## Stroketech (Jul 20, 2009)

*Painted my limbs*

Did you guys have any issues with the paint getting messed up in the bow press?


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

HawgEnvy said:


> sand the limbs with a fine grit sand paper to scuff the surface then go over it. I took all the finish off mine,hit it with auto primer then did several coats Krylon satin black and it never cracked,chipped or peeled.


X2 on this Kylon has worked for me on many many bows I've never had a problem with cracking.


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## imcabby (Sep 28, 2012)

has anyone used plastidip? best part is, if you don't like it, you can peel it off.. a lot of the automotive guys paint their cars with it... durable and flexible.. and cool colors..


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## Mengtian (May 5, 2016)

Sorry for the 4 year bump. I was curious about any other advice to repaint limbs. I made a recurve riser and want to repaint SF Archery recurve limbs. Any thoughts that have not been brought up?


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