# Cam timing



## mxj23 (Nov 27, 2009)

New to tuning, just bought a press and draw board, my bow is shooting a perfect bullet hole right now but when I put it on the draw board the bottom stop hits about 1/8th inch before the top but I don't have a good level to see how the bow is setting on the draw board, should I mess with it, didn't know if it would affect accuracy


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## Rat (Jun 19, 2004)

A bullet hole with a fletched shaft is a good place to start. 
Do field tips and broadheads hit the same? If not, you can try bareshaft tuning through paper to see if the cams need further tweaking. This is how I would proceed but there is more than one way to skin a cat.


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## mxj23 (Nov 27, 2009)

Ok, thanks for the response


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## tyohshooter (Jun 21, 2016)

In my opinion timing should be set according to what feels best to the shooter and what is most forgiving. Timing can greatly affect tbe way the bow holds at full draw. I would recommend setting the cam timing by creep tuning. (This works well for bows with cable stops, I don't know if it would affect limb stops.) Stand at the longest distance you are consistent at and shoot for groups. Have numbers on your arrows to remember which shot is which. On some of the shots hold the bow firmly against the back wall and on some of the shots hold the bow with less tension so that it just barely stays on the draw stops. If you find that the shots go high or low depending on how hard you pull than adjust the cam timing untill you find a position that is more forgiving. I like to check timing with the bow in my hands because sometimes a draw board can put pressure on the bow in different way that will affect timing. Stand in front of a mirror so that you can see both draw stops.


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## pottergreg (Mar 20, 2015)

Check out the video on youtube by Shane Chuning called "Prime Centergy in depth tuning" even though it's not the exact bow you have, the principal is the same. Paper tuning is a tool that gives a picture of what your arrow did while passing through a .0035" plane, it's not even close to the whole story. You want an bare shaft arrow parallel to your fletched arrow hitting the same place (then your broad head should be close if the spine is correct and the broad head spins true! Good luck!


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## TMan51 (Jan 25, 2004)

pottergreg said:


> "Prime Centergy in depth tuning"


Ahhh, thanks pottergreg, somehow I lost that one, of of Ontarget7's best.

Watching the AT Tuning forum for well over a decade, and tinkering with lots of bows with wheels since the 70's, I have learned that "perfect setup", (or at least reasonably close), is the starting point for "tuning". It's been ages since I had a bow shoot bullet holes from setup/scratch, but it can happen.

My current collection of Hoyt's, (hybrid cams), all seem to settle in with some degree of "out of sync" timing. For whatever reason, my grip, rest, or shooting style shoots best with the bottom stop hitting first. I always start at spec, but I always chane things a bit from there. My shorter 30's seem to need the most radical amount of offset at the top. Other shooter/tuners find the exact opposite to be the case. Just because the top local shooter sets up his bows one way, has little bearing on how another shooter needs to set up their own bow.

In any case, *Prime Centergy In Depth Tuning* is a good recipe when applied to my hybrid cam bows, so it's not brand specific. Take notes and save the link.


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