# DIY Archery Bale Target



## ran287 (Jan 28, 2017)

Looking to make some sort of a bale target. I was curious if anyone on here as done this? I have looked into using old clothes or rags, but was wondering if anyone has used any type of foam material? What's worked best for everyone?

Thanks!


----------



## HIArcher (Mar 3, 2013)

Plastic stretch wrap works well and is much lighter than cloth rags. Just make sure it is packed thick enough to stop your arrows.


----------



## kurtzgreg1561 (Aug 30, 2016)

I've seen these suggested as covers and filled with old clothes and rags. Their claimed to do quite well. Total price with velcro straps glued on for ease of stuffing manipulating about $15.

Sent from my LG-H631 using Tapatalk


----------



## kurtzgreg1561 (Aug 30, 2016)

kurtzgreg1561 said:


> I've seen these suggested as covers and filled with old clothes and rags. Their claimed to do quite well. Total price with velcro straps glued on for ease of stuffing manipulating about $15.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H631 using Tapatalk












Sent from my LG-H631 using Tapatalk


----------



## cheyne1979 (Dec 6, 2015)

Plastic stretch wrap filled will bale.
I built a press and compact it all down by jumping in a 600mm x 600mm board. Stops 70# no problem and takes thousands if shots. When the bag starts getting too many holes in it you can easily slide a piece of coreflute inside the bag. 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## svetislavmi (Jan 4, 2014)

That's cool. Never thought of doing something like that


----------



## dorkbuck33 (Sep 12, 2011)

Look up 3rdhandarchery - Jim has the sides (faces) - great guy to deal with .


----------



## j.conner (Nov 12, 2009)

I like used coffee bean bags stuffed with plastic grocery bags for my hanging targets.


----------



## EqualizerMan (Dec 11, 2016)

Can you still get those bags for free at certain coffee shops? You used to be able to but I think the hipsters ruined that for us.


----------



## j.conner (Nov 12, 2009)

No, I order them from Amazon. They are the bags that unroasted coffee or cacao beans are shipped in from the estate where they are picked, before they are roasted. They are more interesting and surprisingly lease expensive than clean new burlap bags. They are slashed open at the top, so you have to re-seam them for use.


----------



## EqualizerMan (Dec 11, 2016)

^^No kidding. That's a pretty good idea, though!


----------



## Frogslayer (Sep 5, 2014)

I built some stuffed bags, but compressed carpet is the best.


----------



## Frogslayer (Sep 5, 2014)

That is 36"x36" x12" it takes about 300 square foot of old carpet. 
Those arrows are my axis hunting setup and 3d 23's shot at 4 steps away with 60# bow. We use it at our archery range.


----------



## MaJa77 (Jun 26, 2016)

Here's a portable one I made for my son. 24" square and 18" deep. Cardboard box stuffed with plastic wrap. When the front wears out, I just tape a new pice of cardboard to it.


----------



## MaJa77 (Jun 26, 2016)

Hears a 3ft x 4ft carpet bale target I made. 10" wide strip of carpet (high pile). My son, wife, and I have put thousands of shots into this target and it holds up great.


----------



## Frank Allnutt (Mar 29, 2017)

A lot of nice ideas here... 

I like the carpet idea the best and my neighbor manages a carpet company so scraps are always free  

Thirdhandman - What did you make yours out of? Plans available?

Frank


----------



## longrangejoe (Jul 30, 2016)

I've used an empty bag target I believe I bought online and filled it full of plastic grocery bags that I found at the local store for free and will stop anything I've ever shot.


----------



## kurtzgreg1561 (Aug 30, 2016)

thirdhandman said:


> Frank: We have the basic plans with each package of the skins. I buy a 12' 2"x12". Cut top and bottom boards at 36" and the 2 side boards at 33". That will give you a 36" square. Staple a solid color fabric to both sides to keep the colors from the clothing from showing through. Then staple the 4 corners of the skins to each side. Once the 4 corners are squared and snug, then staple every inch with 1/4" or larger staples. Then trim with 1/8" x 1 1/2". Cut a Hole in the top middle 6" by 24". Add clothes by wading them up and making sure there are no voids. That should pretty much cover it. Good luck.
> PS stuffing with carpet has not worked well for me.:wink:


Could I ask you why you just don't glue or sew strips of velcro to the bag opening for a finished total package? Just an idea. 

Sent from my LG-H631 using Tapatalk


----------



## creidv (Sep 21, 2008)

Got a used small scaffold off Craigslist, $35.
Used carpet from a local store's install team.
Easy to roll where I want it.


----------



## bwhntr7973 (Mar 8, 2011)

Tag for build

Sent from my LGUS991 using Tapatalk


----------



## EqualizerMan (Dec 11, 2016)

creidv said:


> View attachment 5792001
> 
> Got a used small scaffold off Craigslist, $35.
> Used carpet from a local store's install team.
> Easy to roll where I want it.


A neat idea!


----------



## Griff55 (Dec 29, 2011)

Good ideas.


----------



## sapper17 (Aug 26, 2010)

Big fan of the carpet idea.


----------



## TXfire298 (Feb 11, 2017)

Some solid ideas here. Definitely following.


----------



## Keith James (Apr 1, 2017)

Cool


----------



## pconover (Nov 20, 2005)

what is the best stuffing?


----------



## dustoffer (Jan 24, 2009)

pconover said:


> what is the best stuffing?


I have one of the layered carpet targets that has been in my back yard for about 7-8 yrs now. It is on its second stack of carpet layers and when I replace these, I'll do some re-work on the wood frame as well. I have another target that is stuffed with shrink-wrap-the stuff they wrap pallets with. I collected it from the feed store, HD, and alongside the roadways.


----------



## 10X Archer (Mar 7, 2016)

From my experience it all depends on what materials you have access to. I have made 3rd hand style targets and they work, but require a lot of clothing/rags, and time. I have to constantly replace/repair the skins and add or shuffle filling even though I only shoot a 34# recurve. If you are lucky enough to have *tons* of shrink wrap or rags then they are a decent option. 

For the 3rd hand type, besides getting enough material, the main issue is the skin/face/cover. I personally use simple weed barrier because it is cheap, easily available, and doesn't leave a very big hole when shot. If you want a commercially made bag target cover I would go for the SpiderWeb Spylar or American Whitetail mesh. With a standard cover, each time you shoot an arrow you put a hole in it. Though I personally don't have the funds for it, the meshes wouldn't leave a hole, just wear the polymer strings down so they should be better and cheaper in the long run.

On the topic of 3rd hand covers, I have always supported small business, but they unfortunately don't really bring anything new or improved to the market. It is pretty much the same thing that Morrel (for example) have been using for years and years. Sorry thirdhand, I would love for you guys to prove me wrong but I honestly see no point in buying their skins except to support the archery industry.

My favorite DIY target is the layered type. I don't trust carpet undersides with my expensive arrows, but people say it stops arrow well. We had old pool cover that looke like sturdy blue bubble wrap. I took just a few hours of cutting, 2 boards and 2 ratchet straps to make a little 20" target for the backyard that pulls pretty easily and has surprisingly outlasted my block target.

My advice to you is to find things that are available to you in abundance such as pool covers, cardboard, (foam) carpet backing, carpet, etc and make a DIY layered target.

Congrats to anyone who read all of this, and Happy Shooting!


----------



## JustSomeDude (Jan 27, 2013)

10X,

I'll let you know in a few days. I have two Morrell faces on a box target as well as a Morrell Bag. They are LOUD and arrows get stuck in the bag and also tend to snag on the target face even when it is stretch nice and tight. I have two skins and two rag bags coming in the mail. I've seen people EASILY pulling arrows from the Third Hand. Mine are never easy on the Morrell unless you literally shoot 500 or 600 shots in the same place.



10X Archer said:


> From my experience it all depends on what materials you have access to. I have made 3rd hand style targets and they work, but require a lot of clothing/rags, and time. I have to constantly replace/repair the skins and add or shuffle filling even though I only shoot a 34# recurve. If you are lucky enough to have *tons* of shrink wrap or rags then they are a decent option.
> 
> For the 3rd hand type, besides getting enough material, the main issue is the skin/face/cover. I personally use simple weed barrier because it is cheap, easily available, and doesn't leave a very big hole when shot. If you want a commercially made bag target cover I would go for the SpiderWeb Spylar or American Whitetail mesh. With a standard cover, each time you shoot an arrow you put a hole in it. Though I personally don't have the funds for it, the meshes wouldn't leave a hole, just wear the polymer strings down so they should be better and cheaper in the long run.
> 
> ...


----------



## 10X Archer (Mar 7, 2016)

JustSomeDude said:


> 10X,
> 
> I'll let you know in a few days. I have two Morrell faces on a box target as well as a Morrell Bag. They are LOUD and arrows get stuck in the bag and also tend to snag on the target face even when it is stretch nice and tight. I have two skins and two rag bags coming in the mail. I've seen people EASILY pulling arrows from the Third Hand. Mine are never easy on the Morrell unless you literally shoot 500 or 600 shots in the same place.


Weird, all the Morrell bags I've shot into have been easy to pull from and not very loud. A hard pull would be the material gripping the arrows too tightly. So, if you stuff the skins or bags with something that doesn't do that I would guess that your problem would be solved. How much of a lip do you have on your arrows where the points meet the shafts? If it is the lip on your arrows snagging on the material then it may be better to find closer fitting points.


----------



## JustSomeDude (Jan 27, 2013)

After it is worn in it isn't so bad. But it pops loudly when you hit a fresh spot and often eh points stick when pulling. I've used several different arrow/point combos with it. Easier pull when the face is stretched tightly. I am about to try some points that might be closer to my arrow diameter. We'll see.

But I have a two faces and a bag that are all the same.


----------



## Eric Howard (Feb 20, 2012)

I need carpet now lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JustSomeDude (Jan 27, 2013)

The plastic wrap is working great for stuffing. Not so easy to find though.


----------



## JustSomeDude (Jan 27, 2013)

Shot my new Third Hand rag bags today. The noise is about the same.

If you have points that are larger than the shaft, Morrell will be more likely to snag and will snag worse than Third Hand.

I have one set of arrows with a good point fit. They pull EASY from Third Hand but will still stick in Morrell. My smaller
Arrows still snag at the points in the third hand but pull easily. (I've lost inserts in the Morrell). I'm getting new points that will fix that.

The weave is different on the Morrell material. The Velcro top and hanging loops on the rag bag make it REALLY WORTHWHILE TO BUY.


----------



## Jhurley70 (May 31, 2017)

I like this idea

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## grigg061 (Feb 19, 2009)

Keeping my eyes on this.


----------



## LKamp (Nov 29, 2016)

Never thought of using carpet, great idea!


----------



## 03bullseye (May 28, 2014)

Great ideas


----------



## busfan01 (Jan 2, 2010)

Pressure treated wood, including plywood. Paid the guy at the carpet shop to cut the carpet 24x36. Way overkill but whatever.









Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Garceau (Sep 3, 2010)

does the backing of the target cause issues with the carbon arrows?

I mean its really course stuff......


----------



## V-TRAIN (Feb 27, 2009)

here is mine, cost me less than $50 to make. stuffed with clear shrink wrap and clothes, works great, perfect for long distance.


----------



## Golden Boy (Jul 15, 2017)

Looks cool!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## johnism (Mar 14, 2015)

very cool ideas here


----------



## thirdhandman (Nov 2, 2009)

10X Archer said:


> From my experience it all depends on what materials you have access to. I have made 3rd hand style targets and they work, but require a lot of clothing/rags, and time. I have to constantly replace/repair the skins and add or shuffle filling even though I only shoot a 34# recurve. If you are lucky enough to have *tons* of shrink wrap or rags then they are a decent option.
> 
> For the 3rd hand type, besides getting enough material, the main issue is the skin/face/cover. I personally use simple weed barrier because it is cheap, easily available, and doesn't leave a very big hole when shot. If you want a commercially made bag target cover I would go for the SpiderWeb Spylar or American Whitetail mesh. With a standard cover, each time you shoot an arrow you put a hole in it. Though I personally don't have the funds for it, the meshes wouldn't leave a hole, just wear the polymer strings down so they should be better and cheaper in the long run.
> 
> ...










The target on the top is 30''x30'' sells for about $250 there is 8 aiming spots and one can get as many as 8000 shots before it is completely worn out. Then for $250 buy another. $500 for 2 targets.

Our target is bigger at 3'x3' and skins are $35 a set. Add lumber for another $20 and an hour or two of labor. 
Our skins will take 1000 shots plus per spot. 40 spots will give minimum of 40,000 shots. When one wears our out the frame and rags are still good, just replace the skins for $35. That is two targets for less than $100. 
*Which do you think is the better value?*:set1_thinking:


----------

