# What is the best recurve bow under 200$



## Snubber (Jun 19, 2013)

I am very new to archery and I want to buy a recurve bow that's very reliable and under 200$. Also, if you could help me figure out what arrows to buy with said bow that would be great. I don't hunt, so I don't want broad head arrows. Also what length should it be? I am 5'8". I want something that I'll be able to keep for years without worrying about it breaking or outgrowing it. If you want to know more just tell me, thanks!


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## noobcaheo (Jun 15, 2011)

get a used hoyt horizon


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## xm8k36d (Oct 3, 2007)

Get some used stuff here. It will take a while to assemble a bow. However, you have to understand that the cost on the bow itself is just 30-40% of total cost. All the accessories and arrows and so on will at least set you back by another $200-400. If you can DIY, it would be better.


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

Need to first know what you intend to do with it.


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## Snubber (Jun 19, 2013)

limbwalker said:


> Need to first know what you intend to do with it.


Purely target practice, 10-20 yards


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## xm8k36d (Oct 3, 2007)

Well if you're only trying to have fun at 20 yards, something like Samick Sage would do. Get some cheap sight and stab, matching arrows, and arm guard, finger tab, DIY something to hold your arrows, and you're all set.


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## w8lon (Jun 2, 2012)

+1 on the Samick Sage less the frustration of sights until you reach the point where you think they will help. Cheap bow, dozen Easton Jazz shafts, and a box full of rags and have fun. Welcome to the addiction!


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

Sage


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## Snubber (Jun 19, 2013)

xm8k36d said:


> Well if you're only trying to have fun at 20 yards, something like Samick Sage would do. Get some cheap sight and stab, matching arrows, and arm guard, finger tab, DIY something to hold your arrows, and you're all set.


Would you recommend a finger tab over the rubber things people put on their strings? I can't remember what they're called. What is a stab?


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## Ranger 50 (Mar 2, 2012)

First thing is buy a book and get a little knowledge. Do your home work and you'll understand what questions to ask and understand the answers.


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## xm8k36d (Oct 3, 2007)

Snubber said:


> Would you recommend a finger tab over the rubber things people put on their strings? I can't remember what they're called. What is a stab?


I guess tab would be better since more archers are using them. But the rubber thing is less trouble-one less thing to carry around!
Stab means stabilizers (sorry for confusing you), basically those sticks that we attach to the bow. It's helpful, but you can do without it.


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## TER (Jul 5, 2003)

Guys, when talking to beginners it's helpful to use full English words rather than abbreviations. 

Snubber, yes definitely get a finger tab, don't bother with those junky rubber things on the string. I think Black Widow makes nice high value for the money tabs.
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/shooting-gear/gloves-guards-tabs/finger-tabs.html?manufacturer=3821


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

the Sage is a good bow to start with, though saving a little longer and looking into a used setup would suite you well too.

IF only target shooting, maybe this...you'll have the ability to upgrade to better limbs and not be tied to only one manufacturer. You'll pay a little more, but not much.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-Fantom...040?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d1ca94c0

Tab or no-glove finger tab (round things on the string)...I'd suggest the Tab. The things you're talking about are typically used on a fishing bow where a quick grab and release is used. If you go look at most target shooters...what are they using? Get a good tab and you'll be very happy.


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## Norman2 (Aug 4, 2012)

Hi, Another good choice is the PSE Optima which has a metal riser and is under 200.00. Attached Photo. Regards
Norman


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## rambo-yambo (Aug 12, 2008)

My first set up was a used Hoyt Promedalist for about $200, I sold it for about the same amount after four years (I wish I didn't sell it though.) Used equipment is the way to go.


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

Scrubber, 

Try this thread for an intro on recurve purchasing and accessories:
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1588147

The fellow who opens that thread wrote one of the most useful archery manuals available: _"Shooting the Stickbow"_ by Anthony Camera (can get online at Lancaster Archery or 3Rivers Archery). Ground-up archery technique, equipment, matching arrows to bow, tuning the setup, making arrows and strings, aiming, specific corrective measures for problems you observe in your shooting. 

It's a magnificent tutorial that can shorten your learning curve.

Good luck.


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## Snubber (Jun 19, 2013)

Thanks for the help everyone, it seems like the Sage is the best for it's price from the reviews. What type of arrows should I buy that would match the Sage?


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## rambo-yambo (Aug 12, 2008)

We need to know what is your draw weight and draw length before we can pick the correct arrow. Easton Jazz or Platinum plus arrows are the good one to start.



Snubber said:


> Thanks for the help everyone, it seems like the Sage is the best for it's price from the reviews. What type of arrows should I buy that would match the Sage?


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## hockeyref (Jun 2, 2006)

Maybe we should "suggest" a draw weight for the OP? The conundrum is that he will probably want\need a heavier draw and new (correctly spined) arrows as he gets stronger


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## Norman2 (Aug 4, 2012)

Snubber said:


> Thanks for the help everyone, it seems like the Sage is the best for it's price from the reviews. What type of arrows should I buy that would match the Sage?


Hi, My friend, I hate to tell you that the Samick Sage has no fittings for a sight. Only for the plunger. When you get a sight, which you
will you will have to drill and add 2 threaded inserts. You will be sorry as there are other bows similar to the Sage that have all
the fittings for plunger, stabilizer and sight. Regards
Norman


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

Snubber, 

Sorry I called you "Scrubber". 

Close ... but no cigar!


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## xm8k36d (Oct 3, 2007)

Norman2 said:


> Hi, My friend, I hate to tell you that the Samick Sage has no fittings for a sight. Only for the plunger. When you get a sight, which you
> will you will have to drill and add 2 threaded inserts. You will be sorry as there are other bows similar to the Sage that have all
> the fittings for plunger, stabilizer and sight. Regards
> Norman


Just bought one, it does have sight fitting.


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## Norman2 (Aug 4, 2012)

xm8k36d said:


> Just bought one, it does have sight fitting.


Hi, Thanks for letting me know,
Norman


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## SoMe0nE2tAlK2 (May 7, 2013)

Sage also has stabilizer bushing as well should you decide to go full setup.


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## larry tom (Aug 16, 2012)

Fury90flier said:


> the Sage is a good bow to start with, though saving a little longer and looking into a used setup would suite you well too.
> 
> IF only target shooting, maybe this...you'll have the ability to upgrade to better limbs and not be tied to only one manufacturer. You'll pay a little more, but not much.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-Fantom...040?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d1ca94c0
> ...


Snubber, +1 on the recommendation for the Cartel Fantom riser, especially if you plan to shoot Olympic style. Its what I shoot. Add a pair of Axiom Plus limbs and an appropriate string, and you have a pretty good intro rig for about $200.00. Regards, Larry


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

You don't need an Olympic target bow for target practice at 10-20 yards.

If you want one, fine. Get one. But at those distances, I could set up a Sage that would shoot 2" groups all day long.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

For that matter, Limbwalker could probably shoot 2" groups at 20 yards with just about anything you put in his hands.

If I can shoot 3" groups at 18M using a 22# Rolan bow, Cartel plastic super sight, old x7 stabilizer and carbon Impact super clubs, I can just imagine what Limbwalker could do with a sage..


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

absolutely correct. The reason I suggested olympic style is due to it's versatility...wish I would have gone ILF first as it would have saved me a few hundred bucks.



Weight was mentioned....stay at or under 30#, probably 20-25# would be sufficient. I went 40 for my first and it was a bit much...quickly built strength but really should have been around 25#


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## xm8k36d (Oct 3, 2007)

limbwalker said:


> You don't need an Olympic target bow for target practice at 10-20 yards.
> 
> If you want one, fine. Get one. But at those distances, I could set up a Sage that would shoot 2" groups all day long.


2" at 20 yards, amazing. 
Only problem with sage would be tuning. He would not be able to adjust weight to accommodate slightly wrong spine. Plungers could be installed, though.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

xm8k36d said:


> 2" at 20 yards, amazing.
> Only problem with sage would be tuning. He would not be able to adjust weight to accommodate slightly wrong spine. Plungers could be installed, though.


You guys put too much "emphasis" on tuning/spine/etc. Sure the bow won't be as forgiving but if you shoot the same every time (again form trumps tuning for the most part) it will shoot the same pretty much every time. 

At 18M I was shooting 620 ACE's out of my 22 lb bow. I adjusted the plunger and center shot out enough to make sure the vanes were not impacting my bow and I was able to consistently shoot 55+/60 (3" groups) on a 40cm target. Arrows were fishtailing all the way down but the pretty much landed where they were aimed.

Maybe not all day like John but I will still insist that the bow will out shoot me..


DC


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## Krealitygroup (Dec 18, 2012)

Get the sage! I love it.. and I'm mainly a compound guy!


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## Snubber (Jun 19, 2013)

To answer the question about the draw distance, I fully extend my arm and anchor my other arm around my cheekbone area. I don't have a bow with me but I measured that to be 27 inches. Also, I have no idea how to measure my draw weight without a bow. But, I do work out regularly, so maybe a heavier than average draw weight would be ideal.

Also, I really don't think I need anything like the Cartel Fantom riser or anything for olympic shooting. I'll probably use this bow pretty lightly; just for targets in the backyard and going to a shooting range every now and then with my friend.

I'm getting mixed signals about the Sage from you folks, is it upgrade-able? If I wanted to, could I add a stab, sight, change the limbs etc.?

Thanks again everyone!


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

Yes, the Sage is upgradeable. Basically if you want a wood riser, get the Sage. If you want a metal riser, get a Fantom.

John


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## SoMe0nE2tAlK2 (May 7, 2013)

Snubber said:


> I'm getting mixed signals about the Sage from you folks, is it upgrade-able? If I wanted to, could I add a stab, sight, change the limbs etc.?


You can do all of that no problem with the Sage.
You may be more limited in your limb choices but the option is still there.


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

> so maybe a heavier than average draw weight would be ideal


A word of caution. There is no "average" draw weight. You want your bow to function as a natural body part - an additional muscle and tendon that you can control with absolute domination over as many shots as you desire to take on a daily basis. This will allow you the fastest development as an archer, as well as present you with the most fun during your shooting. 

Pulling a string back a couple of times in the shop is quite different than properly executing an accurate archery shot where you are holding that weight into a proper position with good archer's form while you think, aim, and then loose the arrow with finesse for oh, say ... 50 shots in a row. Daily. Happily.

Your "archery muscles" do not necessarily equal your general physique. They need their own development in order to catch up with your existing musculature.

Give serious consideration to the draw weight issue. As you develop, you can bump up in weight as you see fit. 

Your learning curve will be considerably shortened if you are properly bowed from the beginning. 

Good luck.


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## Snubber (Jun 19, 2013)

Thanks for the advice, I'll definitely take that into consideration. If I wanted to increase or decrease the draw weight of my bow would I just replace the limbs? (provided they were compatible)


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

Replacing the limbs as you develop your archery muscles is the ticket. The goal is to keep the bow's draw weight matched to your own musculature so you can shoot lots of arrows with good archery form for days on end and avoid straining and fatigue. 

Once your body's archery muscles feel comfortable with your particular draw weight, there will come a point that you naturally think to yourself, "Hey, I think I need to bump up my bow's muscle a hair!"

But, just as a biological muscle develops slow and steady, this next bump up in draw weight should be equally slow and steady. Your bow's muscle is growing with you ... you must avoid the bow growing faster than your own biology ... which is arguably the biggest mistake in all of archery.

Patience. A "lighter" bow will fling 20 to 30 yards with quite a bit of authority and accuracy ... ridiculously ideal for the first months or year of surfing the learning curve.


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## TheOldNewbie (Mar 31, 2012)

I'm going to go against all the Sage recommendations here for the new $130 price range. I have both a Sage and a Prostyle bow and would much rather shoot the Prostyle with Polaris limbs than the Sage for 20m informal target shooting. Here it is at LAS:

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/usa-archery-66-recurve-bow.html

You can't use FF strings on the Polaris limbs, but who cares at 20m. You can get a stabilizer for $40 and a good finger tab for $20.

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/w-w-sebastian-flute-axiom-plus-stabilizer.html
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/cartel-smart-finger-tab-cordovan.html

For arrows either Easton Platinum Plus or Carbon Impact Super Club.


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## northern boy (Aug 25, 2010)

have you tried the sage limbs on the w&w riser I thought that polaris an sage limbs would intermix on some risers. I relly hate the feel of a b-50 string to wimpy


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## TheOldNewbie (Mar 31, 2012)

northern boy said:


> have you tried the sage limbs on the w&w riser I thought that polaris an sage limbs would intermix on some risers. I relly hate the feel of a b-50 string to wimpy


I don't have Sage limbs. I use the same Polaris limbs on both risers - 27# on the 66" Prostyle and 29# on the 62" Sage. I also have a set of 23/25# Polaris limbs that I started with. To use FF compatible limbs, I would still recommend the Prostyle riser and Sage limbs. I've considered upgrading to Sage limbs and FF type string, but before I spend money on that I would buy a Fantom riser and Axiom Plus limbs.


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## Nekekal (Dec 25, 2012)

If,as you say, you are just interested in shooting some arrows once in a while in the back yard, you pretty much describe my shooting. Ok, I find it interesting and relaxing so I shoot for an hour every other day. But anyway, I might suggest an old one piece recurve.

I bought my first one on eBay. A Howatt Mamba for about $60. A new string was $10. The bow was 38#. I am an old fat guy who had never touched a bow before and the first week was a struggle drawing it, but I quickly got comfortable with it and can now draw and hold it for minutes if I have or want to. If you watch, you can find a lot of useful bows for less than $100. If you are willing to spend more, both Lancaster and 3Rivers archery list a number of bows for less than $150. I think that they are all good for what you want.

Arrows? I didn't know what my draw length was, and it is believed that it will change, so the simplest approach is to just leave them full length. At your and my skill levels, this talk of tuning is just noise. I use carbon arrows since they are really tough, they don't bend, and they are available. I bought a half dozen of Beman ICS Bowhunter 500 arrows. With fletching and tips, 125 grain, they cost me about $9 each. 

Good luck.


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## MGF (Oct 27, 2012)

Norman2 said:


> View attachment 1691640
> Hi, Another good choice is the PSE Optima which has a metal riser and is under 200.00. Attached Photo. Regards
> Norman


I bought two "inexpensive" PSE recurves last fall (a Stalker and a Razorback) and the limbs came apart on both. One of those bows had only been shot a few times.

If the limbs on this bow are made by the same people, I wouldn't touch it with a 10 ft pole.


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