# Lets build a Slimline inline together.



## 92safari

*Getting your materials together*

Here are some pics of all the needed parts and or components to complete a press like our example. I used standard 14 guage structural steel square tubing which is more than adequate, standard hardware found anywhere, and a standard 2000 lb. "A" frame jack which already contains the ACME rod, bearings, and crank for the press, and lets face it; an inline press is a trailer jack. For now; I'm only listing the hardware need for the press frame and will address the coat hangars later. The adjustment knobs are optional and can be replaced with 5/16" bolts bent as levers.

Steel parts: (all 14 guage)
30" x 1 1/2" sq. tube - (1)= main body
8" x 1 1/2" sq. tube -(2)= frame legs
10" x 1 1/2" sq. tube - (1)= slideing tail piece
4 3/4" x 1 1/2" sq. tube (2)= coat hangar mounts
8 1/2" x 1 1/4" sq. tube - (2)= leg uprights
14" x 1 1/4" sq. tube - (2)= leg feet
42" x 1 1/4" sq. tube -(1)= compression arm

Hardware: (all standard threads)
5/16" nuts - (8)= adjustment nuts
5/16" x 5" bolts - (4)= levers
7/16" washers - (2)= guide holes
3/4" washer - (1)= end cap
1" x 3/16" fender washers - (2-6)= shims
2000 lb. "A" frame trailor jack - (1)= drive mechanism


----------



## joaxe

Now we're talkin'...

:thumbs_up

Joe


----------



## orarcher

Looks great !!!


----------



## 92safari

92safari said:


> Here are some pics of all the needed parts and or components to complete a press like our example. I used standard 14 guage structural steel square tubing which is more than adequate, standard hardware found anywhere, and a standard 2000 lb. "A" frame jack which already contains the ACME rod, bearings, and crank for the press, and lets face it; an inline press is a trailer jack. For now; I'm only listing the hardware need for the press frame and will address the coat hangars later. The adjustment knobs are optional and can be replaced with 5/16" bolts bent as levers.
> 
> Steel parts: (all 14 guage)
> 30" x 1 1/2" sq. tube - (1)= main body
> 8" x 1 1/2" sq. tube -(2)= frame legs
> 10" x 1 1/2" sq. tube - (1)= slideing tail piece
> 4 3/4" x 1 1/2" sq. tube (2)= coat hangar mounts
> 8 1/2" x 1 1/4" sq. tube - (2)= leg uprights
> 14" x 1 1/4" sq. tube - (2)= leg feet
> 42" x 1 1/4" sq. tube -(1)= compression arm
> 
> Hardware: (all standard threads)
> 5/16" nuts - (8)= adjustment nuts
> 5/16" x 5" bolts - (4)= levers
> 7/16" washers - (2)= guide holes
> 3/4" washer - (1)= end cap
> 1" x 3/16" fender washers - (2-6)= shims
> 2000 lb. "A" frame trailor jack - (1)= drive mechanism


Here are the total lengths of steel needed to build 1 press as our example:
1 1/2" square tube 14 guage - 66"
1 1/4" square tube 14 guage - 87"
I'd advise getting a little extra for waste, new ideas, and dang its.


----------



## Tunaboy

Hey 92,

How much for the slick fingers that you make?


----------



## Tunaboy

Hey 92 again,

If you can eliminate welding lots more of us could build one. I would like to have a welder but too cheap to buy one and don't have friends who have one.


----------



## 92safari

Tunaboy said:


> Hey 92,
> 
> How much for the slick fingers that you make?


Don't know whatcha talkin bout Willace. I just pull the hooks off a huge coat rack I got. You can pm me if you like.


----------



## pacnate

Gotta get me one of them there coat racks!!! lol


----------



## erictski

awesome....posting to mark for later use...


----------



## 92safari

Tunaboy said:


> Hey 92 again,
> 
> If you can eliminate welding lots more of us could build one. I would like to have a welder but too cheap to buy one and don't have friends who have one.


The trick would be fastening the nut for the rod and securing the end cap. I'm sure it could be done in this fashion clamping things together with U bolts, and ordering bearing blocks secured with screws, and probably drill and tap the sides of a nut to secure it to the inside of the compression arm. You would need the nut, rod and bearing block in order to determine the size steel to fit your parts. I believe there's a build thread of someones that used parts in this manner for the screw mechanics. Nothings in stone here. This will help just seeing general perameters and a different take on things. You could even use All thread threaded rod if you like. I believe thats all LCA uses on their Golden presses. Actually you'd probably be surprized at what a case of beer will get you if you just go to a local weld shop or muffler shop and ask someone to help you weld it up on the side since you'll have all the parts layed out for him. You could do the grinding, drilling and sanding yourself. There's only about 8 parts or so to weld. Even a little $100 hobby welder would get you through it, and you'll have it around for a million other projects.


----------



## bowtechJDW

Are the arms you use compatible with bows that have draw stops?


----------



## 92safari

*Getting started*

First thing is to notice that the tubing has a weld seam going all the way down one side of the tubing. Try to keep that seam opposite your drilled holes if its going to interfere with your drill bit. Lets start by drilling out some of the holes before any welding. Here are the two 4 3/4" mounting brackets for the hangar assemblies using the 1 1/2" tube (no need to bother with these if you are going to build a conventional style press). The only thing to be concerned with is being sure that your seam is at top and or bottom of the parts and drilling your holes exactly on 1" centers. I use 4 holes for flexability, but you could use just 2 holes 2" apart. I also cut a 15 degree angle on the front edge just because, but again it not a must do thing; squared ends are fine. Just try to center up your holes on the parts and drill on 1" centers. (I stress exactly 1" centers because its important if using these hangar assemblies).


----------



## 92safari

*Frame legs*

Now to drill the 5/16" holes in the frame legs (1 1/2" x 8" tubes) where we will be welding on 5/16" nuts later to accept our adjustment levers. These holes are drilled through only 1 side of the part; so the seam isn't that big o'deal as long as it's not dead center of where you are drilling. For the sake of consistancy; I drilled mine on the seam side since the seam is off centered. We are drilling the hole 3" up from the bottom of the leg and in the center (3/4") on both pieces.


----------



## 92safari

bowtechJDW said:


> Are the arms you use compatible with bows that have draw stops?


Like others it depends on the particular bow and where the stop lies in relation to the limb tip. If the stops are right near the limb tips then you'd need the modified finger with the limb stop cut back. I'll cover all of that in later steps after we have a press platform to work with.


----------



## 92safari

*Drilling sliding tail piece*

Now we can drill the sliding tail piece for adjusting levers. With this piece as well as the main tube; We want to be sure that the seam is on the top of the part (important later). The tail piece is the 1 1/2" x 10" tube. We will be drilling these holes all the way through both sides of the part; so we'll have 3 holes on each side. Drill a 5/16" hole 1 1/2" in from each end and 1 hole in the center.


----------



## bowtechJDW

Hey 92 pm sent


----------



## 92safari

*Shimming main frame tube*

Next we can take the 1 1/2" x 30" main frame tube and drill some holes in one end for spot welding the shims in place (1" x 3/16" fender washers). First thing be sure the seam is on the top of the frame. It will help to mark this side as the "top" as with the tail piece so we don't get confused later when we start welding parts together. By keeping the seam on top of the frame and tail piece; it will ensure that we have two flat surfaces to weld our shims to. These shims will eliminate any play between the sliding compression arm and the frame. These fender washers are just about a perfect fit without being too tight. Before we start with the shims lets be sure that they'll work and fit properly by sliding the 42" x 1 1/4" compression arm inside the main frame and dry fitting the shims in place. We are going to be putting our shims on the bottom and backside of the frame (inside of coarse). If the shims slide in place easily without bindinding; we can take them out and mark their location on the outside of the frame so we can mark the holes to drill.


----------



## 92safari

*Spot welding shims*

Now we can go ahead and spot weld the shims in place. Slide the 42" compression arm inside the frame tube and slide your shims in place making sure the line up good. Now apply some pressure against the shim we are going to weld by pushing against it with the compression arm to be sure the shim is flat against the inside of the frame. Now we can spot weld it in place through the 3/16" holes we drilled. When thats done; roll it over and do the other shim the same way. When finished; the inner tube should slide freely but snuggly inside the main frame.
Now we can clean it up by grinding down the welds and give a quick sanding.


----------



## rhardy11

thanks for the pm safari i appreciate the heads up this threads gonna help alot


----------



## rand_98201

I know this will sound cray but the cheap fluxcore welder from Harbor Freight actually isnt to bad.You need to throw away the wire that comes with it right away and replace with better quality.I used a friend of mines a couple weeks ago for a few small things he needed help with and I was pretty impressed.Im no welding expert by any means.I have beginner to low end intermediate skill with a mig.Ive welded quite a bit with a Lincoln 140 and yeah theres difference.For the hobby type user though I dont think the extra 450$ is worth it though.


----------



## 92safari

*Welding the Endcap*

Sorry about crappy pics. The shim washers look thick in the photo, but actually quite thin. Thats why we use fender washers; they are about half as thick as a normal washer. These won't wear down like a plastic shim would. These shims not only tighten everything up; They also keep the frame and tail piece even on the compression tube. Now we can put the initial endcap on the frame. W use a heavy 3/4" washer for this because it's a large enough diameter to cover the tube opening, it's thick, and it will make it easy to center up the ACME screw in the frame later. We put the endcap on the opposite end of the frame from where we put the shims. We'll try to center the washer best we can, but its not too critical if we're off a little. It's just the initial endcap. Once we have it welded on all 4 sides; We can grind things down and clean it up a little. We won't grind it all the way through the welds so we still have a bit of the bead there for strength.


----------



## jrdrees

Nice ideas!


----------



## 92safari

Thanks. 
The next thing we'll do is tear the jack down to get our mechanical parts to finish up the main press tube assembly; then we'll have something to look at. At that point we can discuss some optional ways to utilize it rather than just welding on legs and calling it done. Once we have the straight tube and sliding tail together; we basically have a press. At that point we could tack on hangar mounts like mine for portability, or we could tack on 90 degree arms for a conventional style, we could make legs that just slide on over the tube assembly so they can be put on and removed whenever we wanted to try out something else like a sliding upright for a string tensioner, or support arm for crossbows, an eventual draw attachment, adding a caution bar or cradle, on, and on. All depends on how modular one wants their press to be. We could ickshnea the legs altogether and clamp it dow at that point if desired. I probably should've started the thread building the press tube assembly so others could stop there and modify it to their needs if they wanted to. Oh well; good hind sight..


----------



## Tunaboy

Anyone else use the cheap welder from Harbor freight?? This is the one that is $110-$120. Would like to make a press like this but welding is always the rub.


----------



## 92safari

Tunaboy said:


> Anyone else use the cheap welder from Harbor freight?? This is the one that is $110-$120. Would like to make a press like this but welding is always the rub.


I haven't used one recently, but I have several years ago. They would be fine for projects like this. There really is no heavy welding involved; just a few short beads here and there. The material is 14 guage so no problem there either. Once you have a welder of some sort you'll find all kind of projects to tinker with, and wire is much easier than stick. I'd say give it a try and have some fun with it.


----------



## Schpankme

92safari said:


> Here are some pics of all the needed parts and or components to complete a press like our example. I used standard 14 guage structural steel square tubing which is more than adequate, standard hardware found anywhere, and a standard 2000 lb. "A" frame jack which already contains the ACME rod, bearings, and crank for the press, and lets face it; an inline press is a trailer jack. For now; I'm only listing the hardware need for the press frame and will address the coat hangars later. The adjustment knobs are optional and can be replaced with 5/16" bolts bent as levers.
> 
> Steel parts: (all 14 guage)
> 30" x 1 1/2" sq. tube - (1)= main body
> 8" x 1 1/2" sq. tube -(2)= frame legs
> 10" x 1 1/2" sq. tube - (1)= slideing tail piece
> 4 3/4" x 1 1/2" sq. tube (2)= coat hangar mounts
> 8 1/2" x 1 1/4" sq. tube - (2)= leg uprights
> 14" x 1 1/4" sq. tube - (2)= leg feet
> 42" x 1 1/4" sq. tube -(1)= compression arm
> 
> Hardware: (all standard threads)
> 5/16" nuts - (8)= adjustment nuts
> 5/16" x 5" bolts - (4)= levers
> 7/16" washers - (2)= guide holes
> 3/4" washer - (1)= end cap
> 1" x 3/16" fender washers - (2-6)= shims
> 2000 lb. "A" frame trailor jack - (1)= drive mechanism


You Rock!


----------



## bowtechhunter64

Tunaboy said:


> Anyone else use the cheap welder from Harbor freight?? This is the one that is $110-$120. Would like to make a press like this but welding is always the rub.


I've had one for 10yrs an built all kinds of little projects with it including a press. It works great on light metals my welds are not pretty but get the job done.


----------



## 92safari

bowtechhunter64 said:


> I've had one for 10yrs an built all kinds of little projects with it including a press. It works great on light metals my welds are not pretty but get the job done.
> 
> 
> View attachment 1073412


Very nice. These hangars can be mounted in the same fashion as yours using two 1/2" rods.


----------



## 92safari

*Parting out the jack*

OK; lets part out the Top wind "A" frame jack since it's the most intimidating part to do. It's not near as tricky as it might look. We'll start by opening up the jack. We get a foot, a handle, and jack assemby. Don't need the foot, and don't need the outer housing for the jack. We'll set aside the handle with the screw kept in it so it doesn't get lost. We can now slide off the outer housing and get it out of our way. Now we're looking at the center jack post, the ACME screw, thrust bearing, and washer. Slide off the bearing and washer together and put aside on a piece of plastic (greasey). Now we can unscrew the ACME screw and remove it through the bottom of the jack and set it aside on plastic as well.


----------



## 92safari

*Removing the nut*

OK; now we go for the nut; so to speak. Our ACME nut is kept in the jack post by a dimple pressed into each side of the jack. What we're going to do is cut out one of these dimples to release the nut so we can remove it with a pry bar or screw driver. The nut itself is round and about 1 1/2" deep.


----------



## 92safari

*Round nut/square hole*

OK; Now we have a nice round nut that we have to fit in a square hole. A little tricky, but we're gonna do it. Looking at the front of the nut; It has a raised center hub area that is just a hair larger than our square opening in our 1 1/4" compression arm tube. We are going to use a 4-4 1/2' grinder with a cutoff wheel and cut 4 flat sides off of this round nut using that raised center portion as our guide. We'll need to put the nut in a vise to do this and be sure to wear safety glasses. For visual aid we're going to mark out the square sides on the face of the nut with a marker just to use as a guide so we can make our nut as square as we can. If its not perfect; don't worry about it. The main thing is that we want it to be as close as possible to a proper fit without over cutting it making the walls of our nut much thinner than we need, because we are going to spot weld it through the holes we make in our tube just like we did with our shims. As we cut off each side using the center hub as our guide; We will then use a grinding wheel and clean up our cut so that we just flaten out the top of the center hub area. This will leave us with approximately 3/16"-1/4" walls around our hole in the nut. Once we have all 4 sides cut; use the grinder to flatten off the sharp corners. This will make it fit the tube better due to the corners on the inner tube are rounded. Now take some pliers to hold the nut (its hot) and test fit into the end of our 1 1/4" square tube. Grind where needed until it makes an acceptable fit. A little loose won't hurt. Once we have a descent fit we can put the nut back on our ACME screw and thread it on all the way to the end (screw gun helps speed this part up).


----------



## 92safari

*screw*

Now we drill some 3/16" holes in the end of our compression arm for spot welding the nut in place. We will drill 1 per side offset to the outer side of center because that is the thickest part of our nut. Once this is done; use a file to smooth out any burrs, and we'll be ready to set it up for welding in place.


----------



## 92safari

*levers*

Here we are going to go ahead and make some adjustment levers for the legs and tail piece using 5" x 5/16" bolts because we are going to use a couple of them in setting up the ACME screw for welding. We simply bend them to a desireable angle, put 2 nuts on them and snug down; the using our cutoff wheel we'll cut off the bolt heads, and cut off the threaded ends flush with the second nut. Thats all there is to it.


----------



## 92safari

*Welding screw/arm*

Now we can set up and weld the nut and screw to the compression arm. The screw and nut need to be set up straight before we weld them in place. To do this we take our outer frame piece and use it as a straight edge by leaving it overhang the compression arm tube about 15" and clamp the two together. Now is where we use the levers we just made to set up the screw by placeing one under the screw near the end, and placing another behind the screw also near the end. This works pretty good for setting proper spacing to ensure the screw is straight before welding in in place. You may have to toy around a little with the spacing to get things straight depending on how well the nut fits. The main concern is that its straight and not so much wether the spacing is even on all four sides. If its even on 2 sides; things will be fine. We just don't want it binding when extended. Once we have it set up to our likeing; We'll use something like a piece of angle, flashing, leather, etc. to protect the exposed threads from spatter and dirt.


----------



## 92safari

*the welding*

Now we can go ahead and spot weld through our holes making sure that the screw stays straight; then we put a bead around the outer edge where the nut and tube meet. Now before brushing or cleaning welds or anything; We'll use the screw gun to thread the screw all the way into the compression tube while gripping the screw with a rag. This will wipe all the threads clean of and dirt and such that might have stuck to the greese and identify any snags that might need cleaning up with a wire brush. I we run into any stiff spots; then we just have to remove the screw and clean it very well with a wire brush so it turns smoothly through the whole cycle. Once the screw is all the way in hideing the threads; we can go about cleaning up the welds with the grinder and sander; making things perty and smooth.


----------



## 92safari

*Joining arm & frame*

Alrighty then; That was the most challenging part of the whole press. Now we can join the compression arm and frame. We'll start by placing 1 of the two 7/16" washers on the cranck end of the screw to act as a stop and provide the proper spacing for our crank handle. Slide this assembly into our frame tube. Be sure to try it in all 4 positions to be sure you choose the one with the smoothest sliding action. Square tubing is not always "square". When the best position is found; put a mark on the top of the tube for referrence later. Once the two are together with the crank end sticking out of the 3/4" hole in the frame; Slide the other 7/16" washer on the crank end of the screw and nudge the screw to the top/front of the frame tube since we shimmed the bottom/back of the frame tube. This will keep everything straight and properly position our screw exit hole in the frame. When this is done; we can put a few tack welds around the washer to hold it position and then proceed with a final weld to finish the assembly. When we're happy with all of that; We can slide the frame off and clean our new endcap up with the grinder and sander.
For a sense of accomplishment at this point we can slide the thrust washer and bearing onto the screw end and attach the hand crank so we can give her a try. Run it all the way through a couple of cycles to see that things are smooth. We will be adding greese or oil to the threads later. We now have the main component of any inline press (or a nice long trailer jack; however you want to see it


----------



## incendiaerus

:bump: :hungry:


----------



## aread

Some great ideas!

Thanks for posting :thumbs_up


----------



## kg4cpj

Want to follow this thread.


----------



## Schpankme

:bump:


----------



## rhardy11

awesome job nobodys ever been this detailed


----------



## Schpankme

:jazzmatazzes::blob1:


----------



## 92safari

I'll get back on later tonite to upload another batch of pics and info for the next few steps... Almost done


----------



## Schpankme

Sweet -- thank you.


----------



## 92safari

*Options..*

Before we go further; This is the moment where the press can take the shape of any style you like. We could try all sorts of things now, because we just made the main part of any inline press, or even the compression jack like on a Boaconstricter style press. We could add 90 degree arms to go the conventional route, , make a wall mount, a rotating mount, fixed legs, adjustable legs, removeable leggs, We could get some 1 3/4" square tube and cut slider tubes and weld legs to them, uprights, sliding hangar mounts, caution bars, draw attachments, string tensioners, who knows what else might want to be experimented with. The hargars we're using are detachable as an assembly; so they can always be quicly changed out to try something else in hangar designs or styles. Just food for thought.. now that we know how to make a simple , inexpensive press with much better components than a factory model; plus all the versatility in the world..
OK; thats it on that. On to the next step of the slime inline concept we started with.


----------



## 92safari

*hangar mounts*

Now we're going to set up and tack our hangar mounts in place. I do it before tacking all the lever nuts in their holes it easier to get everything as straight as possible dealing with flat surfaces. On the main frame; we come in 1 1/2" from the crank end, line our hangar bracket up as straight and squarely as possible, and clamp in place for tack welding. When we go to weld these in place; we're going to tack weld each of the 4 corners before final welding. This way things won't to puleed out of whack when heat distorts the metal.
Now we gab our 10"x 1 1/2" sliding tail piece and clamp our hangar mount in place; only this time we are letting the mount hang past the end of the tail piece by 1 1/2". This allows us to press very short ATA's by simply reversing the tail piece ( about 19" ata). I don't shim my tail piece to fit nuggly because it really doesn't matter on the tail when tighteng it down with the levers. This allows the 1 1/2" overhang of the hangar mount to overlap onto the press frame shortening the minimum ATA span even more.


----------



## 92safari

*Legs..*

Next; We can go ahead and weld on all of our adjuster nuts. We have to for our frame legs, and 6 for our sliding tail piece. We can just use the levers we made to install the nuts, or use a seperate bolt all together. I opt for the later; just in case I screw something up with the nut weld; at least that way I don't waste the lever too. Once done with that; We can clean up the tail piece and seal it with paint; it's done unless we wanted to add shims for a snugger fit first. The legs can be finished up now too. They can be positioned any number of ways, but we're just going to use the square clamps and set these up 2" from the open end and 4 1/2" from the crank end. Make sure they are as straight and square as possible; then tack them in place at all 4 corners; then finish weld and clean the whole thing up for paint. The lower legs are centered together and tacked at only 1 corner for now. (forgot to mention that we drilled 3/8" holes in the tips of the leg feet in case we ever wanted to mount it to a bench). After the 1 corner is tacked; Slide them into the press frame legs and snug them in place with the levers. Now stand it up on a good flat surface and tweak adjust them so everything is standing nice and firmly. This way if we were a little off on something it can be easily straightened back out and final tacked before welding. When thats all done; chase the threads with a tap, and clean it all up for paint.


----------



## 92safari

*Legs..*

Legs pics


----------



## 92safari

*painted*

Here we have the completed press itself painted and showing optional knobs along with levers.


----------



## 92safari

*The hangars*

Now we can just bolt on the hangar assemblies. The are spring loaded for width adjustments out to 3". All 4 tilt fwd and back of center 3/4" for offset adjustments and squaring up limbs to tune yokes. They can be tilted full fwd or full back for various limb angles. If draw stops are an issue; The limbstops can be shaved off the 2 outer hangars to clear draw stops. Best of all they can be popped on and off in seconds for storage or transport. Now we have a clapsable slimline press that can be hung on the wall, stashed away, fit in a bow case, kept behind the seat of a truck, carried anywhere you like, set up in seconds to be used anywhere thats handy. If you ever need some help or have questions; feel free to contact me and we'll get you set up.


----------



## aread

Your finger mounting system is pure genius!

I wouldn't be surprised to see it or parts of it on a future EZ Press.


----------



## 92safari

aread said:


> Your finger mounting system is pure genius!
> 
> I wouldn't be surprised to see it or parts of it on a future EZ Press.


I hear ya.. They've tried atleast 5 times to buy the press and/or hangar assemblies...through five different employees


----------



## jmill29

bumping to save the thread!!


----------



## iluvgear1

92safari said:


> I hear ya.. They've tried atleast 5 times to buy the press and/or hangar assemblies...through five different employees


If that is true, and I have no reason to believe it is not, it would appear LCA is pretty quick to have their attorney fire out the threatening letters, but they are always keeping their eye out to get their hands on someone else's intellectual property


----------



## super*

Nice


----------



## Schpankme

Love all the Pics, and really like them "hangar assemblies".

Thank you


----------



## Hoythews71

Awesome of you to post this!

Much appreciated man!


----------



## Schpankme

:bump::usa2:


----------



## joshwhite1204

nice job


----------



## 92safari

Like to see some pics from some of you guys that are building one of these in any variation. Pics are inspiring to others still on the fence about attempting one themselves.


----------



## Schpankme

92safari said:


> Parts List and components to complete a press like our example. I used standard 14 guage structural steel square
> tubing which is more than adequate, standard hardware found anywhere, and a standard 2000 lb. "A" frame jack
> which already contains the ACME rod, bearings, and crank for the press, and lets face it; an inline press is a trailer
> jack. For now; I'm only listing the hardware need for the press frame and will address the coat hangars later. The
> adjustment knobs are optional and can be replaced with 5/16" bolts bent as levers.
> 
> *Steel parts: (all 14 guage)*
> 
> 30" x 1 1/2" sq. tube - (1)= main body
> 8" x 1 1/2" sq. tube -(2)= frame legs
> 10" x 1 1/2" sq. tube - (1)= slideing tail piece
> 4 3/4" x 1 1/2" sq. tube (2)= coat hangar mounts
> 8 1/2" x 1 1/4" sq. tube - (2)= leg uprights
> 14" x 1 1/4" sq. tube - (2)= leg feet
> 42" x 1 1/4" sq. tube -(1)= compression arm
> 
> *Hardware: (all standard threads)*
> 
> 5/16" nuts - (8)= adjustment nuts
> 5/16" x 5" bolts - (4)= levers
> 7/16" washers - (2)= guide holes
> 3/4" washer - (1)= end cap
> 1" x 3/16" fender washers - (2-6)= shims
> 2000 lb. "A" frame trailor jack - (1)= drive mechanism
> 
> *Here are the total lengths of steel needed to build 1 press as our example:*
> 
> 1 1/2" square tube 14 guage - 66"
> 1 1/4" square tube 14 guage - 87"
> I'd advise getting a little extra for waste, new ideas, and dang its.


Keep'em coming. 

:wav:


----------



## NHLHVECTRIX

Tunaboy said:


> Anyone else use the cheap welder from Harbor freight?? This is the one that is $110-$120. Would like to make a press like this but welding is always the rub.


I have the lincoln cheapy from home depot. work great for just messing around. it is the flux core unit..


----------



## lc12

Fantastic job there, and nicely detailed!
I have some of 92safari's "coat hangers" and they are EXCELLENT in design and use!
I highly recommend them.


----------



## Schpankme

Looked for any used 30+ year old welders (american made), 200+ amps

or used

Miller 903471 Xmt 304 CC/CV 208-230/460 W/Auto-Link


----------



## incendiaerus

Easy Build - simple, strong and affordable.


----------



## Schpankme

:bump:


----------



## 92safari

*Hanger assemblies*

Thought I'd show some details on the hanger assemblies I use. They are laser cut from 3/8" plate steel; then machined, drilled and tapped for the adjustment screws in the tail slots. Next they are given a protective coat of paint and 4 coats of Plasti-Dip rubber coating. The slots allow them to be independantly adjusted 3/4"-1" both front and back of center. This allows them to compensate for brackets individually, square the limbs, or used together for various limb angles.


----------



## Longbow42

92safari said:


> Thought I'd show some details on the hanger assemblies I use. They are laser cut from 3/8" plate steel; then machined, drilled and tapped for the adjustment screws in the tail slots. Next they are given a protective coat of paint and 4 coats of Plasti-Dip rubber coating. The slots allow them to be independantly adjusted 3/4"-1" both front and back of center. This allows them to compensate for brackets individually, square the limbs, or used together for various limb angles.


Let me say that they work very well too.


----------



## 92safari

*Assembly*

These are assembled using 2 half inch by 6" bolts; one as a pivot and one as an anchor. There are 2 springs between the hangers and a 3"x1/4" adjusting knob in the center for easy, precise control of the span/width. A 3/16" steel bridge is the welded between the 2 bolts (Leaving proper spacing for the mounts) Making everything 1 solid assembly. Lock collars can also be used for this. Then we put four 12/24 cap screws in the tails to both adjust and hold the position of each hanger in the assembly.


----------



## 92safari

*Options*

Since we're making our own press that means nothing's in stone (steel can always be played with. Here are a couple options for those with draw stops that don't want to remove them for pressing, and those with big hands that prefer a little more access to the cam for fiddling. By shaving off the backside of the outside hanger/hangers from the inside corner of the limb stop: We can easily avoid draw stops. Now sometimes without these stops keeping the bow in a fixed position; the riser may tend to tilt away from the press a bit due to that limb wanting to creep up a little, but not enough to worry.
For those that might want a little more cam access; there is plenty enough beef on these to shave some off of the backside without weakening. Personally I just rotate the cams when pressed to do anything needed as I would with any other press, but heres a pic of the area that could be shaved out for a slimmer hanger.
This is all just to show that as long as you use a common base on these hangers (holes and slots on 1" centers (or just holes for that matter); You can be free to experiment with any number of hanger shapes and designs especially if you come up with a general blank that you could allow you to cut varius tip shapes.


----------



## 92safari

*traditional option*

Here is just one of the easiest options for using these hangers on a traditional style press with 90 degree arms. By using our hagars as blanks; we can cut the shape we need for single post mount and eliminate most of the hardware. 

It could also be done leaving assemblies the way they are and adding a second 1/2" hole to our traditional center mount, or using a 2 holed pair of mounts on the outside of the assemblies ( inside a "U" channel for example). Just to spark some ideas.


----------



## 92safari

*Brackets*



92safari said:


> Here is just one of the easiest options for using these hangers on a traditional style press with 90 degree arms. By using our hagars as blanks; we can cut the shape we need for single post mount and eliminate most of the hardware.
> 
> It could also be done leaving assemblies the way they are and adding a second 1/2" hole to our traditional center mount, or using a 2 holed pair of mounts on the outside of the assemblies ( inside a "U" channel for example). Just to spark some ideas.


Heres an effective way to mount the assemblies on a traditional style press using 2 fixed mounting brackets on the outsides and welded directly to the arm, or a mounting plate could be used as well. This method is more work, but retains all the same attributes of the original concept. Hangers can always be easily removed so you can try something different down the road if you wanted.


----------



## proelitefan

great concept, now if you could would you sell the fingers and at what price?


----------



## 92safari

proelitefan said:


> great concept, now if you could would you sell the fingers and at what price?


pm'd


----------



## Schpankme

I like the yellow hangers better then the black hangers! :evil:

:first:


----------



## bigHUN

me interested as well, pls gimme a pm


----------



## 92safari

bigHUN said:


> me interested as well, pls gimme a pm


PM'd


----------



## Z-Rider

The hangers are the only thing holding me up on this project, please PM me if you are selling them and include a price.

Thanks!


----------



## 92safari

Z-Rider said:


> The hangers are the only thing holding me up on this project, please PM me if you are selling them and include a price.
> 
> Thanks!


pm'd


----------



## incendiaerus

:bump:


----------



## 92safari

*press*

completed press


----------



## Schpankme

:bump::usa2:


----------



## 92safari

*bowtechJDW's Press*

Heres your pic bowtechJDW. Must be a lefty?? NICE JOB!! I like the wheel..


----------



## 92safari

I'll post some new pics later today for guys building a more conventional style press with the 90 degree arms. I built mine with sliding arms for added convenience, but same mounting method as if they were a typical fixed configuration.Also working on a spring loaded quick change method of going from standard hangers to shaved draw stop hangers in just a couple seconds.


----------



## jdiesel

Dang these look great sure wish I could weld.....


----------



## 92safari

*Hanger variations*

We'll start by showing some variations touched on earlier. Shaved hangers for draw stops, and some other hangers I put on a diet to thin then up. Just to show that nothing is in stone when done in metal.


----------



## 92safari

*More traditional*

Heres a more traditional or generic approach with a couple of my own twists for those that prefer this style. We used the same basic press tube that we started with. I kept the slide adjusting tail and added a slide adjusting opposing end as well allowing for both quick adjustments and maximum versatility. No legs yet. I believe I'll take a detail from an older thread an incorporate "caution bars" on this one.


----------



## 92safari

*Quick change assembly*

Now this is pretty trick... I'm using a quick change assembly on this one to make it quick and easy to change from a standard hanger arrangement to a shaved hanger for use on bows with draw stops. Here the bolts are actually spring loaded sliding pins. Can you tell I like things that slide?? By pulling back on the threaded end of our pin; it releases the outer hanger. We can then simply replace it with a shaved hanger and let the pins slide back into place. The threaded end of a bolt is used simply so theres something there to pull on to retract the pins without messing around with pull rings or anything else that would just complicate a simple matter. I kinda thought this set up was pretty sweet.. Toot! Toot! (my own horn).


----------



## gdayskippy

^^ Genius


----------



## 92safari

Just a tip if you plan on using side plate mounts: Space them at atleast 2 3/4" so you have room to switch over to the spring loaded pins later if you wanted to.


----------



## wthaynes

also interested in the hangers pm me


----------



## 92safari

Getting alot of good pm's, but only a few guys sending pics. Lets see how your presses are progressing.


----------



## 92safari

bump


----------



## mtn3531

just looks like another variation on an LCA press


----------



## 92safari

Yup.. Except better materials, more versatile, faster, easier, and portable. Other than that just another golden press.


----------



## Schpankme

:bump:


----------



## ruttnwapati

You have engenuity in your finger design and adjustments. The finger assemblies being able to slide up and down the rail for speedy adjustments... that's a cool idea you came up with.


----------



## wellsyinoz

Thanks for the design, here's my effort.
Prior to this project, I had less then two hours on a stick welder. So if your thinking of building a press without much welding experience this might be the one to try.




























Wellsy


----------



## 92safari

Excellent job !!! Looks like you did great!! Best of all; You did it yourself and ended up with a better press than one the factory Golden jobs.
Big thumbs up...
Thanks for posting your example. Have fun with it and share your experience with a friend.


----------



## 92safari

Anyone else making progress with theirs? Lets see 'em.


----------



## kybowhunter90

nice


----------



## jimmyk

Sweet press.


----------



## dw'struth

It is killing me, wanting to make one of these! They look very nice!


----------



## 92safari

Theres's nothing to it, but to do it...
I'll try to do more posting soon. Spending alot of time right now building several versions of the Pac-Presses'; trying to keep with those and these doesn't leave much time.


----------



## gmwilkes

any good pricing on steel for the press?


----------



## mtmedic

Nice write up!


----------



## 12ringmafia

im interested in a set of fingers for bows with draw stops. Plz pm me. thanks a million.


----------



## 92safari

mdbowguy your box is full


----------



## OHIOARCHER36

Nice thread


----------



## Schpankme

:bump:


----------



## 92safari

By request I'm going to build a traditional style bench mounted version with the retractable pins for a visual example. I'll be using the same building methods up to the point of welding on the legs and mounts.


----------



## 92safari

bump


----------



## TxHunter73

Awesome job!!


----------



## 92safari

*Another Variant of the inline press*

Heres just another variant of the inline press combinding some conventional with unconventional. This is also a completely modular assembly using the same basic jack tube assembly that we started with and added some more traditional 90 degree arms that both operate as a carrage assembly on a slide rail to adjust from just a few inches out to however long you want to make your extension tube (This particular press extends to 49 1/2"). Great if you have kids with some of the very short ATA youth bows or crossbows. I actually have another configuration for crossbows as well as bows which allows the hanger assemblies to be inverted. Just another quick example of some of the possibilities working from the same basic design.


----------



## GhostBuck_007

Wow, how did I ever miss this thread? Subscribed, great looking press man...


----------



## 92safari

ttt


----------



## dublewyde

Pm sent safari


----------



## 92safari

I used the modular press version last pictured yesterday to change the string on my Predator crossbow 175 lbs. by inverting the hanger assemblies and just letting the crossbow hang from the press. A couple people asked if there was any slipping concerns using sliding carrages with the set screw knobs; no concerns at all. The press easily compresses the 175 lbs. with no issues at all. I know alot of you now have your hanger assemblies now; any of you care to share some more pics of your projects?


----------



## curt514

On the in-line presses you could adapt them to a draw board simply by adding a mounting post the slides inside of the finger mounting arms, or you could make a new modular arm that slid over the jack assembly just like the fingers do. I am waiting on the post office to deliver my Pac-press and I am planning on trying to make an attachment so the I can use the press as a vertical draw board just like the Boa constrictor press. I will try to post pictures once I can get it done.


----------



## 92safari

*xbow*

Couple pics of 175 lb. Predator pressed both upright and inverted. Still working on an easier way of having the sideplates made for traditional style presses. Everything is hand made and a bit time consuming now. I know caution bars are nice too and an upright for string tensioner, or securing xbow stocks. It all adds up; steel, parts, and time. This modular set up is kinda nice though; alot of configuration options. Long, short, upright or inverted, wall mount, bench mount, or free standing, easy to pac-away for storage, and you can always add or remove parts whenever you want without cutting anything.
I know pics are messy. I just set it up on my tablesaw real quick to take a couple pics.


----------



## 92safari

Running out of places to hang my coats. Anybody have any new pics to share yet?


----------



## bowfreak1970

I like it.


----------



## Lonesome Timber

Sent you a PM 92safari


----------



## ColoCompound

92safari, your box is full....send me a pm.


----------



## 92safari

OK emptied it again.


----------



## wiggins7070

awsome this is going to save me alot of money and it will be fun to do. thanks for posting this


----------



## DV8Pilot

Sweet! New project!
Pm coming your way 92safari.


----------



## Trevorfox34

Could you please pm me on the price for limb fingers? Thanks man and AWSOME job on the press deff going to build this besides spend 1200 for a press that doesn't do as much as this one!:wink:


----------



## labs4life

PM requested for the "coat hangar" assembly. Just scored a welder and I want these babies ready as soon as deer season is over:thumbs_up


----------



## 92safari

OK; I believe I've answered all the PM's


----------



## 92safari

Still waiting on the laser cutter to come back with my new hanger design. Working on the same basic principle and plan form, but these will eliminate the need for spare drawstop hangers as well as a couple other slick qualities not seen anywhere else. These will blow all the other generic designs out of the water and I'm sure once again ruffle some feathers. I'll post pics as soon as their done.; so keep an eye on the thread..


----------



## ycastane

Will this jack work??







Lift Capacity (lbs.)
2,000
Length of Travel (in.)
10
Length Retracted (in.)
11
Length Extended (in.)
21
Jack Type
Round
Crank Type
Top wind
Ground Support
7in.L x 4in.W plate
Mount Type
Weld-on


----------



## 92safari

10 inch of travel is cutting it close if you ever want to tear down.


----------



## ycastane

How long must the travel be?? Will 15" suffice??


----------



## lbaran

I am interested in the fingers. Anyone selling these?


----------



## 92safari

ycastane said:


> How long must the travel be?? Will 15" suffice??


Most of the bows I've torn down end up taking 8-10" to relax. The jacks I use are 14-15" of travel. You can find them for $25-$30 at Lowes, Tractor Supply, Wal-mart, most stores that have a towing section. The weight isn't really important; You just want as much travel as you can get without spending a fortune on it.


----------



## ycastane

Sounds good bud, definitely will jump on this and try to create one as best as i can and when im done i want to add a draw board.


----------



## mv2martin

sweet


----------



## Huaco

Hey 92... PM sent...


----------



## 92safari

Not seeing it..


Huaco said:


> Hey 92... PM sent...


----------



## Huaco

let me check my outbox...


92safari said:


> Not seeing it..


----------



## Huaco

PM re-sent...



92safari said:


> Not seeing it..


----------



## Huaco

So, I work for a metal fabricator. I ordered one stick each of the square tubing yesterday... it will be about 30 for the steel. That is enough steel for 2 presses. Looks like about 15 bucks per press in just steel... That is a WHOLE lot better than LCA's WAY OVERPRICED press!!!! haha! Cant wait to get started and have my press to tinker and service my bow.


----------



## 92safari

Mann thats great. Tempts me to go to texas just for the difference in steel prices. I really get raped up here in comparison. Cost me well over twice that for 1 piece, and I wish my machine shop and laser cutter would let me pay by the pound. Let us see whatcha got when you "gitter dunn".


Huaco said:


> So, I work for a metal fabricator. I ordered one stick each of the square tubing yesterday... it will be about 30 for the steel. That is enough steel for 2 presses. Looks like about 15 bucks per press in just steel... That is a WHOLE lot better than LCA's WAY OVERPRICED press!!!! haha! Cant wait to get started and have my press to tinker and service my bow.


----------



## Huaco

92... This was just thrown in with an order of something like 10,000 pounds of steel. That is why the price is so low. When we order, it is in VOLUME. We get quite a discount for doing so. If I had gone to "Metal-Mart" or something, I would have paid MUCH more...




92safari said:


> Mann thats great. Tempts me to go to texas just for the difference in steel prices. I really get raped up here in comparison. Cost me well over twice that for 1 piece, and I wish my machine shop and laser cutter would let me pay by the pound. Let us see whatcha got when you "gitter dunn".


----------



## wiggins7070

my steel price in ga was 34.55 for 20' of 1.5 and 28.22 for 20' of 1.25 that seemed alot more reasonable than 700 for the same type press.


----------



## Huaco

wiggins7070 said:


> my steel price in ga was 34.55 for 20' of 1.5 and 28.22 for 20' of 1.25 that seemed alot more reasonable than 700 for the same type press.


Was that a walk-in type store or ordered through a fab shop like I did? Still, you have just over 30 bucks in steel per press. That is still very much less $$$ than LCA!


----------



## 92safari

Mine was $52 and $79 right from the steel warehouse dist. just for the square tube.


----------



## wiggins7070

walk in and loaded out the door from a steel supplier i guess cash talks :tongue:


----------



## 1 hoyt Vtec

thanks for the great ideas!! i have been tossing around some similar ideas in my head. the hanger assembly was where i was getting flustered.:beer: but i have a couple extra ideas that may work. i will be more than willing to post pics when i get that far. i am still drawing it up and need to get it in the cad program. no drilling for me. lol all laser cut and punched. i hope it all works out so i can show my version on here.


----------



## 92safari

1 hoyt Vtec said:


> thanks for the great ideas!! i have been tossing around some similar ideas in my head. the hanger assembly was where i was getting flustered.:beer: but i have a couple extra ideas that may work. i will be more than willing to post pics when i get that far. i am still drawing it up and need to get it in the cad program. no drilling for me. lol all laser cut and punched. i hope it all works out so i can show my version on here.


Great.. Keep in mind laser cutting leaves a very hard brittle suface as far as holes go. Makes redrilling or tapping a real pain, and Helps to go just a hair oversized for a free fit.


----------



## Huaco

What diameter holes did you drill @ 1" centers in the hanger mounts?


----------



## Huaco

1 hoyt Vtec said:


> thanks for the great ideas!! i have been tossing around some similar ideas in my head. the hanger assembly was where i was getting flustered.:beer: but i have a couple extra ideas that may work. i will be more than willing to post pics when i get that far. i am still drawing it up and need to get it in the cad program. no drilling for me. lol all laser cut and punched. i hope it all works out so i can show my version on here.


What CAD program are you going to use? I am in the middle of modeling this press in SolidWorks on my lunch breaks... I plan to save all the drawings as PDF files and email to 92 for his use and to disseminate as he sees fit. I am modeling it as weldments and it will have weldment cutlists.


----------



## 92safari

I used .50" front holes, 1/4 x 20 tapped center hole on the inside fingers, and widened the rear adjustment slots at the tails are closer to 5/8" to avoid any binding since they don't need a tight fit (not to loose though so as not to cause issues with the springs binding.), Likewise the center slot on the outside fingers are widenedmore like 5/16". I'll try to actually measure the slots to give a better idea. The 4 vertical holes going through the slots for adjusting/locking screws are 12/24 tapped.


----------



## 92safari

92safari said:


> I used .50" front holes, 1/4 x 20 tapped center hole on the inside fingers, and widened the rear adjustment slots at the tails are closer to 5/8" to avoid any binding since they don't need a tight fit (not to loose though so as not to cause issues with the springs binding.), Likewise the center slot on the outside fingers are widenedmore like 5/16". I'll try to actually measure the slots to give a better idea. The 4 vertical holes going through the slots for adjusting/locking screws are 12/24 tapped.


Incidentally; I use the exact same arrangement and hardware on all my Monster Pac-Presses. I've used this arrangement for around 5 yrs on a couple thousand presses and it's proved to be a very strong user friendly set up.


----------



## 92safari

92safari said:


> I used .50" front holes, 1/4 x 20 tapped center hole on the inside fingers, and widened the rear adjustment slots at the tails are closer to 5/8" to avoid any binding since they don't need a tight fit (not to loose though so as not to cause issues with the springs binding.), Likewise the center slot on the outside fingers are widenedmore like 5/16". I'll try to actually measure the slots to give a better idea. The 4 vertical holes going through the slots for adjusting/locking screws are 12/24 tapped.


OK; I measured. .55" hole, .4" center slot, and .6" tailslot.


----------



## 92safari

1/2" mount holes.


Huaco said:


> What diameter holes did you drill @ 1" centers in the hanger mounts?


----------



## smbenson

Huaco said:


> What CAD program are you going to use? I am in the middle of modeling this press in SolidWorks on my lunch breaks... I plan to save all the drawings as PDF files and email to 92 for his use and to disseminate as he sees fit. I am modeling it as weldments and it will have weldment cutlists.


If you are doing a SW model for the press, do you have a model or CAD drawing for the fingers? I am looking to build a press and maybe able to get the fingers machined if I can get a model. Also, I would be willing to draw the fingers in SW if I had some dimensions and provide to everyone.


----------



## Huaco

smbenson said:


> If you are doing a SW model for the press, do you have a model or CAD drawing for the fingers? I am looking to build a press and maybe able to get the fingers machined if I can get a model. Also, I would be willing to draw the fingers in SW if I had some dimensions and provide to everyone.


Don't want to do the Hhanger assembly in the model without 92's approval. The press is pretty much common knowledge, but his hangers system is unique. If I do model them up, I will be glad to furnish the model files to 92 so he can do with them as he wishes... I do NOT want to step on any toes... I just want to help him out in some way...


----------



## smbenson

Huaco said:


> Don't want to do the Hhanger assembly in the model without 92's approval. The press is pretty much common knowledge, but his hangers system is unique. If I do model them up, I will be glad to furnish the model files to 92 so he can do with them as he wishes... I do NOT want to step on any toes... I just want to help him out in some way...


Same here. Only offering my SW services to model the hangers and press for that matter. I would follow your same protocol for having 92's approval for anything produced and disseminated.


----------



## 92safari

*Just a hint..*

Heres just a little hint on the newer finger design coming.... They will be both slimline and traditional style, for standard, drawstops, and crossbows.


----------



## wiggins7070

those are the ones i want when i finish my build!


----------



## ycastane

Me 2


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=25.753591,-80.305869


----------



## Huaco

92safari said:


> Heres just a little hint on the newer finger design coming.... They will be both slimline and traditional style, for standard, drawstops, and crossbows.


Nice!!! 92, that is pretty darned innovative there!!!


----------



## 92safari

Thankoo very mush  Now if I could just get them from the machinist we'd be all set...


Huaco said:


> Nice!!! 92, that is pretty darned innovative there!!!


----------



## Bearlee

nice looking


----------



## ycastane

I dont know the price of metal where you guys are at but here in Miami is a rip off, i just called 3 different places to get prices on the tubing and is $36 for 1 1/2 for 24' and $33 for 1 1/4 for 24' the press will come out to 300 bucks just in parts if not more. Man i feel down right now, i was all excited to do my own and apparently unless i get a miracle it looks like i am not hoing to be able to build it.


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=25.855156,-80.132126


----------



## ycastane

I have to be the biggest moron in the year 2011 hahaha, i just realized i was doing the measurements in feet, wow. At least im back to happy again that i can do the press yey!!


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=25.855275,-80.132088


----------



## 1 hoyt Vtec

Huaco said:


> What CAD program are you going to use? I am in the middle of modeling this press in SolidWorks on my lunch breaks... I plan to save all the drawings as PDF files and email to 92 for his use and to disseminate as he sees fit. I am modeling it as weldments and it will have weldment cutlists.


i believe we have solid works as well. i am not the one putting into the cad system.


----------



## twistedfreak

money sent for the slim line set thanks


----------



## 92safari

twistedfreak said:


> money sent for the slim line set thanks


You must be mistaken. This thread is for information and a little inspiration.


----------



## 92safari

Finally after rattling some cages I've been promissed that the new hangers will be done next week. I'm anxious to get them. More slender for better cam access, and hands down the most versatile anywhere. I'm hoping that the cost per item won't change much since the machining is the same with just some extra material for the laser cutter. It will totally eliminate the need for extra drawstop hangers; so should save some there. I've been waiting for 3 months for these to finished so I haven't asked about cost yet.


----------



## Huaco

92safari said:


> Finally after rattling some cages I've been promissed that the new hangers will be done next week. I'm anxious to get them. More slender for better cam access, and hands down the most versatile anywhere. I'm hoping that the cost per item won't change much since the machining is the same with just some extra material for the laser cutter. It will totally eliminate the need for extra drawstop hangers; so should save some there. I've been waiting for 3 months for these to finished so I haven't asked about cost yet.


Eager to see how they come out.


----------



## twistedfreak

here my attempt at making my 2nd press this one will stay with me and not to my friends.


----------



## 92safari

twistedfreak said:


> here my attempt at making my 2nd press this one will stay with me and not to my friends.


Hey.. Nice job!! Looks like that will serve you well for a long time to come


----------



## twistedfreak

will the new finger design be interchangable with the old brackets?


----------



## 92safari

92safari said:


> Hey.. Nice job!! Looks like that will serve you well for a long time to come


Yes: I kept the same mounting arrangement. Simple and versatile always the first thoughts


----------



## Water63

bump to mark thread 

Thanks for the info


----------



## Trevorfox34

I am finishing mine....I have at my paws body shop getting sand blasted and I'm going to paint it then throw a pic or two on here! Its not exactly how I want it but it'll work for now! I plan on fixing it later.......I needed it done to change strings so i rushed a lot of things that i couldn't find around the house!


----------



## Trevorfox34

It ain't near what I want it to be but I had to change strings on my bow and needed it done quick! So in a few weeks I will post a newer pic of how I really want it done!


----------



## Huaco

Nice!


----------



## KyRaizor

question of the day is do you sell any of those "demo-models". I don't have the patience or equipment necessary.


----------



## 92safari

Trevorfox34 said:


> It ain't near what I want it to be but I had to change strings on my bow and needed it done quick! So in a few weeks I will post a newer pic of how I really want it done!


Looks GREAT!!:thumbs_up


----------



## 92safari

Supposedly tomorrow they'll have the blanks to be machined for the new hanger assemblies.. been trying for 3 mos now..geeessse
Bill


----------



## Huaco

WooHoo!!!


----------



## ycastane

Yeah guy dont hijack the thread to make money, this is supposed to be to help people. Not criticizing but do it thru PMs, thats a private matter between you 2. Thanks


----------



## 92safari

*New assemblies*

OK; If I could jump back in here;
I've got the blanks in for the newer assemblies and mounts. They still have to be machined but here are some pics. Since the single biggest issue is pressing with drawstops or not and needing extra specialty hangers for those situations: I took my same basic design and combined the shaved hanger for drawstops and the standard hanger to make them one in the same piece. I also shaved the fat off the backside making the assemblies more slender for better cam access. The mounting dimensions are identical the the originals so they'll easily interchange. On the Slimline style you simply flip the assemblies around to press with drawstops by haveing a complete doubled set. On the traditional with sideplate mounts and retractable pins; you a single on the inside and double on the outside and just retract the pins and flip the outside hangers upside down. For pressing bows and crossbows you have a complete double set with the standard hangers upside down. I'll have better finished pics next week to make it more clear. Totally eliminates loose sets of spare hangers lying around. These are a little more expensive than the basic original 4 pc sets, but saves some compared to what used to be a 6 pc set.


----------



## Huaco

Isn't it amazing what a little beam of light can do to steel! Nice work 92! Look forward to seeing them finished up!


----------



## SoCalHogHunter

ycastane said:


> Yeah guy dont hijack the thread to make money, this is supposed to be to help people. Not criticizing but do it thru PMs, thats a private matter between you 2. Thanks


the statement go EDIT yourself comes to mind.


----------



## SoCalHogHunter

oooohhhh tough guy ! haha


----------



## Dairy King

Come on guys, this was a great thread. Take it to PM's.


----------



## hitman846

SoCalHogHunter said:


> the statement go EDIT yourself comes to mind.


Buh Bye :wave3:


----------



## DavidBLingo

Great information.

Thanks for posting detailed info and good pictures for those of us who are "creatively challenged" in the area of engineering and fabrication!


----------



## Dairy King

hitman846 said:


> Buh Bye :wave3:


Thank you, sir.


----------



## 92safari

I don't see the post by miniozzy, but the concern was limb clearance on the lower portion of the assembly on parallel limbed bows. I don't believe that will be an issue with the fwd sweep and tilt function. Personally I wouldn't use an inline on preloaded or beyond parallel limbed bows. I know people do it, but I don't believe its a good idea using them on anything where the axels are beyond perpendicular to your benchtop. Thats just pushing a nifty idea beyond its safety limits. I actually use my radial presses more often for the versatility. No drawstop worries, no bow type or model concerns, and I can still press any crossbow that I want to.


----------



## eltaco

Sent you a PM reply on the fingers!

Lets bump this back to the top!


----------



## 92safari

*New Slimline hanger assemblies*

Here are the Newer Slimline assemblies with hardware pics asked for.


----------



## 92safari

*Reversable assemblies*

Here are some more pics so you can see that this arrangement is simply reversable for drawstops. To change from a standard arrangement to a drawstop arrangement all you do is switch the assemblies from one side to the other.


----------



## Tunaboy

Got any pics of a bow in the new style fingers?


----------



## 92safari

Tunaboy said:


> Got any pics of a bow in the new style fingers?


I'll get some. Just haven't had the free time from building the Monster Pac-Presses.


----------



## Tunaboy

Good info here, can we sticky?


----------



## 92safari

OK; I should be able to post some slimline pics this weekend as well as a simple traditional style with retractable pins....


----------



## hisnheroutdoors

this is an awesome thread,92 you are very creative good job i want to build one PM SENT


----------



## CarlV

92safari said:


> Don't know whatcha talkin bout Willace. I just pull the hooks off a huge coat rack I got. You can pm me if you like.


I'm not "seeing" the coat rack in my head. Can you elaborate or something? The hooks are the toughest part to get a hold of for me.

Thanks


----------



## 92safari

*Slimline style pics*

Normal double stops, and flip them over for drawstops. This is the slimline version. With sideplate mounts for more traditional style presses or vertical presses you only need 1 double on each side.


----------



## 92safari

In the 5th pic I use a velcro strap to make sure the bow does't want to creep up or away from the press frame as I've seen som bows do. There are so many variables at work in a bow that pinning down a single reason why some bows want to creep in a press is challanging at best. Anything from varying limb deflection, riser torquing, pocket issues, etc. can cause this from time to time and bow to bow; especially with everyone trying to build lighter and lighter bows.


----------



## 2BMX

92safari, thanks for sharing your idea.


----------



## hoytbaxter

Very slick guys! Great Work!


----------



## Tunaboy

Bought some slimline fingers and built a no weld press from Uni Strut that works good. His fingers are solid and adjustable. As far as the bow tilting towards or away from the press when pressing I find that if my bow tilts away the outside finger is not pressing as hard as the inside finger and need adjustment. What I do is clamp the bow into the press lightly so it holds the bow in place. Then I wiggle the fingers one at a time and usually find that one is pressing a little harder, I adjust the other finger tighter and get a straight press. So what you are doing is balanceing the load between the fingers. You do not try to balance the load from one set of fingers to another but rather balance the load on the right hand set evenly and the left hand set evenly. ALSO ! do not let go of the bow or the string during this process...don't want your bow bouncing on the floor.


----------



## 92safari

Thats a good way of saying what I should've said.


Tunaboy said:


> Bought some slimline fingers and built a no weld press from Uni Strut that works good. His fingers are solid and adjustable. As far as the bow tilting towards or away from the press when pressing I find that if my bow tilts away the outside finger is not pressing as hard as the inside finger and need adjustment. What I do is clamp the bow into the press lightly so it holds the bow in place. Then I wiggle the fingers one at a time and usually find that one is pressing a little harder, I adjust the other finger tighter and get a straight press. So what you are doing is balanceing the load between the fingers. You do not try to balance the load from one set of fingers to another but rather balance the load on the right hand set evenly and the left hand set evenly. ALSO ! do not let go of the bow or the string during this process...don't want your bow bouncing on the floor.


----------



## bowtecher82nd

Looking for a set of the Fingers, Great set up...


----------



## 138104

Tunaboy said:


> Bought some slimline fingers and built a no weld press from Uni Strut that works good. His fingers are solid and adjustable. As far as the bow tilting towards or away from the press when pressing I find that if my bow tilts away the outside finger is not pressing as hard as the inside finger and need adjustment. What I do is clamp the bow into the press lightly so it holds the bow in place. Then I wiggle the fingers one at a time and usually find that one is pressing a little harder, I adjust the other finger tighter and get a straight press. So what you are doing is balanceing the load between the fingers. You do not try to balance the load from one set of fingers to another but rather balance the load on the right hand set evenly and the left hand set evenly. ALSO ! do not let go of the bow or the string during this process...don't want your bow bouncing on the floor.


Can you post up some pics of this no-weld press?


----------



## Nytro69

I don't suppose I could talk you into sharing a print or DXF file on those new fingers?


----------



## 92safari

Nytro69 said:


> I don't suppose I could talk you into sharing a print or DXF file on those new fingers?


Sorry: no got... I just gave my templates to the laser cutter and drilling, tapping, and slotting info to the machine shop to have them make some up.


----------



## 92safari

Ya; I'd like to see your project too...


Perry24 said:


> Can you post up some pics of this no-weld press?


----------



## crawdaddi

Hopefully the pics are attached to this message. Not sure if I am doing it correctly. Anyway, here is my inline press. The three pics are of it being used on a Bowtech Specialist, Bowtech Invasion, and the last pic is just to show how it may be necassary to adjust the fingers while pressing the bow. I noticed that on the Invasion the limbs must have different loads on them. One would always press in further than the other on each side. The tee handled heax wrench worked great for tweaking the fingers while I was pressing it. This avoids having to let off pressure of the press and re-adjusting the fingers several times. Anyway, great product Bill!! Thanks for everything.. I am pretty new to pressing my own bows andhad no problems. Thanks Again


----------



## 92safari

*Traditional Style Inline*

A buddy wants a simple, traditional style inline; so I'm building this one for him using prety much all the same components that we've already used to build the Slim Line and Modular presses. We start with the same jack tube assembly we built on the first couple pages, same leg tubes, same tail piece, but instead of the square tube hangar mounts; we're going to use the sideplate mounts and square tubing arms at 90 degrees to the frame in a traditional manner.


----------



## 92safari

*assembling parts*

Here we just assemble our parts. Once you can make the jack tube assembly you can make all sorts of variations. Alot of people even just modify a square framed jack from Harbor freight to same time, and then just add parts to it. I just build up some outer jack tubes and use the same inner tube assembly for all my tinkering. On this press I welded my arms on and put a 45 degree gusset behind each one just because it makes sense and creates a super strong joint. You can put the arms at any distance apart that you like for the work you will be doing with the press. With this style press; the tail piece won't be reversable for pressing very short ata's; so I shortened the tail piece just a tad. This will give me a pressing range of about 29"-50". All depends on how long you want to make your inner tube. Made mine 42" same as before.


----------



## 92safari

*legs*

I know I could just put fixed position legs on that just bolt to the bench, but I still like portability, adjustable height, and the option of bolting down. This way you can always make 2 sets of inner legs. One set that bolts to your bench or stand and another set in case you want to just grab the press and go somewhere leaving the mounted set on your bench. I just made some generic feet for now to stand the frame up for pics. I'll be making some proper legs with offset feet later so in one direction the press can be mounted or clamped near the edge of the bench and the other direction it can be free standing and portable.


----------



## 92safari

*side plate mounted assemblies*

Here is the assortment of hagar assembly parts that I've compliled thus far to work with. I'm still waiting for one more single to be machined with slots in case I ever want to build a press with just a standard 4 singles. I believe out of a combination of any of the parts that you can build just about any variation of press you want or replace any arrangement you have now. You'll see the side plate mounts are made to sit on a piece of square tubing for a base with the hanger assembly between them. Also shown are the steel bridges used for Slimline style mounting. I made inner and outer doubles as well as singles to have as many different configurations as possible. It doesn't matter what style of linear press you have or decide to build this way; You can use the same hangers with whatever mounts suit your needs. If you decide later that you want to try a different style press then you can use the same hangars and just change the mounting style. These even work for the vertical style presses where the bow hangs inside the press.


----------



## 92safari

*for this press*

On this press; I'm going to use the sideplate mounts with retractable pins, 1 single and 1 double on each side like we did on the Modular style press on I think page 4-5. Here they are just mocked up with bolts to show how they will be set up. Once we have them mounted with the retractable pins; all we have to do is pull the pin and flip the outside finger or fingers for use on bows with drawstops. On my modular style press; I use 2 doubles on each side since both assemblies are slide adjustable. This allows me to press my crossbows either upright or hanging as well as any short ata youth bows.


----------



## 92safari

*more pics*

Here are more pics


----------



## 92safari

1 more


----------



## whiter

Pm sent 92.


----------



## 92safari

*Mounted assemblies*

OK: Here are several pics of the press with the hagar assemblies mounted and the new legs with offset feet. I'l post more pics of how the assemblies go together on this style of mounting. With the side plate mounting set up; I use the retracting pins and a single hangar on the insides and doubles with the drawstop hangar on the outsides. This way you just remove the center adjusting knob, and pull the pins back to flip the outsides over as needed. The legs are still height adjustable and reversable, or with both sideways; you can hang it out of the way on a wall somewhere. With the short side of the feet pointed fwd; The press can be mounted or clamped near the edge of a bench if you're building one for bows with long stabs or such. If you mounted legs like this to the back of the press, or built it modular; you could wall mount it instead of a bench or stand. With the long side of the feet facing fwd; It can be used free standing or mounted wherever you want. Kinda nice working with a surface under you. Now I just have to dip the hangars and give everything a coat of the trademark black paint and Whaaallaaa; Yet another variation using pretty much all the same basic parts. Next is one downsized a bit for crossbows.


----------



## 92safari

*Alternate hardware*

Now before I show how to assemble the retracting pins; I want to point out that these can be mounted several faster, and cheaper ways. They can just be set up with 4) 1/2" bolts and 8 nuts like shown. All the springs and knobs are just another way of doing the same thing.


----------



## 92safari

*Retracting Pin assembly*

For the retracing pin set up; I welded the sideplate mounts 3 3/8" apart for good range and less spring tension. Then: I cut 4) 4 1/2"x1/2" cold rolled rod for pins. I ground the ends ans marked a spot 1/2" from the tails for a hole for the "D" rings I used. Then put on each pin; a 7'16" flat washer to use s a stop (just leave these loose on the pins at first). Now slide these from the backside into the mounting holes.


----------



## 92safari

*next step*

Now we put the single inside hanger and then put one spring on each pin: then one at a time; compress the spring a little and press a flat nut onto the pin about half an inch or so to retain the spring. Next we line up the double, outside hangers with the mounting holes and press the pins through just enough to have a smidge of solid shaft through the mount. This will leave around an inch or so of the pin hanging out the back. Slide the stop washers up against the mounts and put a tack weld to keep them in place.


----------



## 92safari

*span adjuster*

All thats left is the span adjustment knob. This can also be done a little cheaper with just a 1/4"x20x3" bolt and wing nut screwed in from the backside of the single hanger. I like knobs so thats what I used. Now all the spring tension will keep the assemblies pressed to the outer sides of the mounts and just crank it in or out as need.


----------



## Tunaboy

I am the NO WELD guy from above. I am traveling on Biz. now and hope to be home in a week. Will try to get pics up then.


----------



## 92safari

*All done:*

All done and ready to squish some bows..


----------



## 92safari

*Quick Recap:*

We covered quite a bit so far building 3 different style presses all starting with the same basic jack tube assembly and pretty much the same materials. Most of the assembly info is on the first couple pages so anyone new to the thread can see right away what they need just to get started without thumbing through 8 pages.
First we built the Slimline withadjustable legs, removable hangar assemblies, reversable right or left hand operation, reversable slide adjustable tail piece, and calapsable for transport and storage.


----------



## 92safari

*Modular:*

Next we built a modular version using adjustable, rearrangeable subassemblies. Capable of very small ata's, presses both bows and crossbows, everything is reversable, can be free standing, bench mounted, or wall mounted, and can always add components.


----------



## 92safari

*Pins & plates*

Making the modular is where we came up with the retracting pins and sideplate mounts to make the hangar assemblies more versatile. Here are some progressive pics of the original style we started with for the Slimline with square tube mounts; then with the sideplate mounts and retracting pins.


----------



## 92safari

trying this pic again


----------



## 92safari

*Newer design*

Anyway; Then we changed the hangar design a little eliminating the need for spares for drawstops. A pair of doubles for the slimline style that you just flip over for drawstops, and a double and single arrangement for the sideplate style. A few posts back I showed a very inexpensive way to set these up without all the springs, knobs, or retracting pins which is how most other presses are set up normally anyway. With these you can always easily make the changes later if you want.


----------



## dw'struth

Very impressive!


----------



## Fugitive6

I sent a pm and never got an answer on the fingers. i got the metal and will start my build in the AM. dont want to go too far if i can't get the fingers. Pm me with a price plz. And thanks alot for doing this. I love to tinker!!!


----------



## 92safari

Never got your pm. Sent you one now.


Fugitive6 said:


> I sent a pm and never got an answer on the fingers. i got the metal and will start my build in the AM. dont want to go too far if i can't get the fingers. Pm me with a price plz. And thanks alot for doing this. I love to tinker!!!


----------



## 92safari

*Crossbow press*

Heres one that I'm setting up slightly smaller for my crossbows. Small enough for my Barnett Predator and still long enough to service most of my vertical bows as well ranging from 19"-40". No legs yet; debating a couple things. Its' hanger assemblies consist of 2 doubles on each side allowing crossbows to be pressed with stock up or stock down. It will also use the retracting pins so the outside hangers can be flipped over to suit needs. I'll show yet another way to set up the pins thats even easier.
I cut the main body tube down to 22" and the sliding tail piece 7". The arms are 2" from each of the ends which gives me a minimum of 18-18 1/2" and a max of 41" or so since I cut my jack tube to 36".


----------



## turkeyking67

ur pm box is full pm me please need fingers thanks


----------



## 92safari

Box emptied...


turkeyking67 said:


> ur pm box is full pm me please need fingers thanks


----------



## 92safari

*Another method for the retracting pins*

Heres yet another way to set up the retracting pins that is very simple and works out very well. I cut 4 1/2" cold rolled 1/2" rod pins and drilled a hole just inside where the outer hanger would lye in order to use a 3/8" hitch pin as the spring retainer. Thats all thats needed. The spring presses against the outer hanger keeping everything snuggly in place and acts as a constant spreader while adjusting the span with the center screw, nut, or knob (which ever you choose). They work exactly the same as before. Pull on the pins to release the outer hanger so it can be flipped over as needed. These hangers can also be used without any springs or knobs just riding on the 1/2" pins or bolts. I'll post some pics using bolts only as well.


----------



## 92safari

*Just bolts*

Here is set up using only 1/2" bolts. Putting a nut on the inside of the outer hanger just keeps everything snugged against the outer side of the mounts instead of just free floating willynilly on the bolts. Just a very simple way to use them. With all the various ways to set these up and mount them; They can be used on just about any press project other than a radial press for which I have a specific set for those that are used on all of my Monster Pac-Presses.


----------



## 92safari

*Favorite*

This one is my preferred method of mounting. I drilled a hole just inside both sideplate mounts for hitchpins. This retains the pins. Basically the same setup for retracting pins except pins are locked in place and the outer hanger is mounted on the outside of the plate mount and retained by the adjustment knob. This makes changing the outer hanger a snap. Just remove the knob flip the hanger over and put the knob back in place.


----------



## 92safari

*wall mounted xbow press*

Here I just mounted to the side of my bench to illustrate how it would be used as a wall mounted press. Pics show pressing my Barnett Predator @ 175 lbs. both upright and inverted using the double hangers. This press is still long enough to work on my vertical bows as well.


----------



## Scoutin'Wyo

AWESOME work fellas. Now I just need to find a machine shop in my small hick town.


----------



## Speed2Max

TTT I need to build one of these.


----------



## Tunaboy

Hope I did this right, here are the pic's for the no weld press that I made with fingers I bought here.


----------



## DV8Pilot

Got mine done yesterday. Will get pictures up today.


----------



## 92safari

Pretty sweet!! Got any top or end pics showing how you set up your moving parts?


Tunaboy said:


> Hope I did this right, here are the pic's for the no weld press that I made with fingers I bought here.
> 
> 
> View attachment 1238310
> View attachment 1238311
> View attachment 1238311
> View attachment 1238313
> View attachment 1238313
> View attachment 1238309


----------



## DV8Pilot

A couple of lessons learned:
A single shim on each per parallel side is fine (I did one on either side and while the tolerances were great, the paint came right off the moving parts)
The rustoleum hammered metal paint is really cool stuff.


----------



## redyak3

Great stuff guys!!!!


----------



## 92safari

DV8Pilot said:


> View attachment 1239668
> 
> View attachment 1239669
> 
> 
> A couple of lessons learned:
> A single shim on each per parallel side is fine (I did one on either side and while the tolerances were great, the paint came right off the moving parts)
> The rustoleum hammered metal paint is really cool stuff.


Congrats!! Looks like you did great


----------



## 1huntelk

hey.
first time on AT.
I just got a CRX32 and need to build a new press. I live in the mountians in colorado and can"t find anyone close to do fingers.Do you sell finger assemblies?


----------



## pleembob

Hey 92 safari, I have been reading this thread and want to make one of the slimline style like you started with. Please PM me regarding fingers.


----------



## 92safari

Anyone else got pics of their projects yet?


----------



## whiter

I have everything together just waiting for my hangers to get cut. After i get those on i a need to paint it then i will take pics and post. I am very pleased so far. I have made everything myself and a few changes. Just wish i could do the hangers myself but oh well.


----------



## 92safari

Looking fwd to seeing it. I know exactly what you mean about the hangers being the hang up. Around here its very hard to find a place to do a small order of laser cutting for less than its weight in gold not to mention all the additional machining I wanted for mine so they weren't just another stick with a hole in it. Thats why I decided to bite the bullet and work out exactly what I wanted and make a larger order of parts; so I didn't have all the effort in making a better more versatile press and then have to put some generic, make shift hangers on it. I was hoping that this thread would help everyone save time grief and money of experimenting with sizes dimensions, materials, and all the general head scratching of coming up with a basic, quality press platform to work with and add or subtract from to get what they wanted in a press set up. I'm sure that input and pics of other peoples projects can only help spark motivation in guys that aren't quite sure about giving it a go.


whiter said:


> I have everything together just waiting for my hangers to get cut. After i get those on i a need to paint it then i will take pics and post. I am very pleased so far. I have made everything myself and a few changes. Just wish i could do the hangers myself but oh well.


----------



## 92safari

hhmmm....


----------



## hunting555

PM sent regarding the hangers.


----------



## whiter

92 pm sent


----------



## bireyn43

Just finished painting


----------



## 92safari

AWSOME!! That turned out great.


bireyn43 said:


> View attachment 1254520
> 
> 
> Just finished painting


----------



## whiter

92 pm sent


----------



## 92safari

Lets see some more pics of your projects. So far the ones posted are looking great!! I'd like to see some of the older press modifications are coming out like the Sootballs and other Vertical presses.


----------



## windtech007

I'm in the middle of my press build and maybe buy the end of next week I'll post some pics. I need to stop re-reading this thread seems like every time I end up making changes, takes a lot of time. Thanks 92!


----------



## McDragon

I've been following this for some time. This is one of the best threads on AT. If I can acquire Fingers, we just may have to start working on something. The nice item is that I already have a 90amp Wire welder for just this type of stuff.


----------



## McDragon

I've been following this for some time. This is one of the best threads on AT. If I can acquire Fingers, we just may have to start working on something. The nice item is that I already have a 90amp Wire welder for just this type of stuff.


----------



## whiter

Got my press finished. I am very happy with it. It works great.


----------



## 92safari

Very nice; Looks GREAT!!
You might try the arrangement shown in post #246 with the double on the outside of the mounts. That way all there is to flipping the hanger is removing the center knob and flipping.


whiter said:


> Got my press finished. I am very happy with it. It works great.


----------



## whiter

Ok i got ya thanks.


----------



## 92safari

box emptied


----------



## .BuckHunt.

Got my hangers today! Thanks 92'

Will be putting it together when I am able to get away from school for a weekend.


----------



## oldracerguy

*New Slimline Completed*

Hangars put to use. My son and I spent a half day in the shop and look what we have now....


















I used 6" bolts instead of the 5" that were on the plans. I then cut the bolt heads off, drilled holes, and inserted quick clips. This allowed me to weld the plate to the bolts on the other side of the hangars and still be able to flip the hangars for bows with draw stops. $19.00 for the a frame jack, $26.00 for the steel tubing, plus the hangars. Nice project for my son and I. Love it. Thanks 92 Safari!!!


----------



## 92safari

SWEEET!! Nice job and tell your boy you guys ROCK!!


----------



## windtech007

here is what I have so far


----------



## 92safari

*Nice press*

I've been wanting to try a set up similar to caution bar set up, but instead of the caution bar attached to the legs; I was thinking more of a stationary cradle of sorts for the bow with the press assembly being manuvered to the bow. Sounds a little confusing, but using the modular press parts from earlier post it shouldn't be to tough to experiment with. Just tough getting time away from building the Pac-Presses and crossbow presses to really focus on it for long. I believe that because of the off set legs used for the caution bars; this is what led to the original caution bar fellow to use the swiveling arms on his later presses.
Nice job on your press. Looks like it'll do the trick for you.


----------



## windtech007

Thanks, but you are to kind. as soon as I loaded the press and stepped back to take pic I realized the caution bar as it sits now is useless. I went home thinking about where to start cutting in the morning. Stationary cradle w/adjustable press assembly???? hmmmmm Im not happy with the fingers or the caution bar. Hard to tell from pic, but the heat shrink is all that is holding the bow in the press. That is a old bluemountain badger that I still use some. Fingers will probably fit my CRX better but they need to function with all my bows not just hoyt. This will take a few days and please any thoughts , suggestions or criticisms you can offer are appreciated.


----------



## Dan Belman

Nice thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SchattenMann

those are some great press...really it made me want to do one myself

would anyone mind to share the finger design so i try to cut them myself? also how do you guys do that rubber cover on the fingers?

thanks


----------



## 92safari

Anyone building one for their crossbows? If so; Lets it it.


----------



## Big Easy

I have my fingers now and will be building one of these very soon. I have a couple of questions for those of you that have built these presses. First, I really like the versatility that is offered by having each finger arm being adjustable by simply using set screws to keep them in place on the traveling arms of the press. This would allow me to use the press easily for my bow and my daughters Nuclear Ice. My question is have any of you had your presses slip while under pressure because of the set screws sliding along the frame or are the set screws enough to hold the finger arms in place securely? Also, Is the acme rod that you take out of the jack long enough to allow you to fully relax pretty much any bow, or do I need to get a longer acme rod if I want to be able to fully relax a bow? I like the idea of not having to order anything through the mail, but if I need to, I will order a longer acme rod. I appreciate any responses and I'm thoroughly impressed with all of the presses you guys have built.


----------



## 92safari

First off; I have pessed heavy crossbows with just 1 set screw and no hint of slipping. In the pic I press my 175 lb. Predator with sliding arms on each end without any issue. I show 2 set screws in the thread just because; why not? nothing wrong with a back up system. As far as 14" being long enough; All it takes is 1-2" to relax a bow; so if I'm tearing down a bow; I bring the press all the way in then out a couple inches. This gives me 12-13" left over to extend after pressing. 10 is more than enough for anything I've ever pressed. If still concerned; Nothing to loose with a longer rod. Just be sure to have the correct thread pitch for your nut. Using the jack is just the simplest and most cost effective way to get all the mechanical parts you need all in one place. Handle, thrust washer, thrust bearing, rod, and nut all for $20-$30 depending on where you find your jack.


----------



## bmk1

On the fingers did you use the plasti dip spray or the can that you actually dip it in?
Thanks


----------



## 92safari

Don't waste your money on the spray. It goes on way way too thin. I've used it only to dip over it after a whole can. I actually get 2 cans to dip a set because the cans are so skinny that you'll need to top it off with the other one several times to get atleast 3-4 coats of dip on them. Yes; I tried putting the dip in a wider container too; no good. It just getts all gummy. Another tip is to make sure they are clean and don't paint them before dipping. Put one coat of dip on and let it set up for an hour or so; then paint the remainder of exposed area. If you paint before dipping it will just run off like melted wax and get lumpy. Try to give atleast a couple hours between dips and after 3 or 4 coats be sure to let them hang and cure good for about 4 days otherwise it will just squish when you apply pressure to them. Unfortunately its a little tricky getting the hung just right so the dip flows and drips off nicely without leaving bulges or webbing in the corners. Might want to try working with just one at first to see how it works for you. Be sure to stir it well before using too and steel and dip should be around room temp to save yourself a whole other set of issues. Not as tough as is sounds once you get the hang of working with it.


----------



## Ricky 2feathers

Great thread! Will be building one starting tomorrow! Just priced one like these at a local shop and did not look near as good as these for over 500.00! Nice work!!


----------



## oldracerguy

92safari said:


> SWEEET!! Nice job and tell your boy you guys ROCK!!


With your illustrations and parts list and hangars to get us motivated, you helped turn this one from a (wish I had one of those) to a (wow this thing works just like the local shops press!)
Thanks for keeping this thread going and outlining the process. I have a Miller 185 with autoset, a 4 inch band saw, and a drill press. Just enough to tinker with projects like this. Now I have to learn how to tune.....


----------



## bmk1

92safari said:


> Don't waste your money on the spray. It goes on way way too thin. I've used it only to dip over it after a whole can. I actually get 2 cans to dip a set because the cans are so skinny that you'll need to top it off with the other one several times to get atleast 3-4 coats of dip on them. Yes; I tried putting the dip in a wider container too; no good. It just getts all gummy. Another tip is to make sure they are clean and don't paint them before dipping. Put one coat of dip on and let it set up for an hour or so; then paint the remainder of exposed area. If you paint before dipping it will just run off like melted wax and get lumpy. Try to give atleast a couple hours between dips and after 3 or 4 coats be sure to let them hang and cure good for about 4 days otherwise it will just squish when you apply pressure to them. Unfortunately its a little tricky getting the hung just right so the dip flows and drips off nicely without leaving bulges or webbing in the corners. Might want to try working with just one at first to see how it works for you. Be sure to stir it well before using too and steel and dip should be around room temp to save yourself a whole other set of issues. Not as tough as is sounds once you get the hang of working with it.



Thanks, I appreciate it.


----------



## Ricky 2feathers

I just bought all the materials to start my build. I have a few more ideas also to add to it. This is a great thread and 92safari you did an awesome job. Great helpful tips and the how to build process was outstanding! I have been looking for a press and I am glad I found this great thread before spending 500.00 on one. I have always been a metal fabricator and this is right up my alley! Thank you! Everyones on here look great and hope mine turns out half as good!! I will post up pictures later today when it is mostly built:thumbs_up


----------



## link06

Awesome presses guys! I really need to build me one, fast! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## shydog

Getting all the gear together.
Having a hard time with materials though. Here in Oz things are a lot harder.
"nesting or telescoping" steel has been sourced but the outside is 40 x 40 x 4mm thick, is that too thick? Inside is 30 x 30 x2mm is that too thin? This is for a internal slide clearance of 2mm. I can get different sizes but am trying to use dimensions shown on this thread.
The a-frame jack is impossible to get here, so I am trying a "jockey wheel" which is used on caravans to lift and hold the hitch when the van is setup.
It doesn't have anything like a 14 inch travel, maybe 10 at the most. Is this enough? So I'm trying to find a acme threaded rod to suit.

Easiest part so far was talking to Bill re the adjustable 'coat hangars'.

Anyone in Oz built one of these that may have some ideas of where to source pieces??

Lyle.


----------



## Warlocke

I made mine with 2mm wall steel square tube with the thread and thrust bearing from a Ford scissor jack bought from a car wrecker.

Worked well.


----------



## shydog

Found a local-ish supplier for the acme threaded rod, but has to order it in!
Found a trailer manufacturer/repairer that was kind enough to give me a broken jockey wheel to tear apart for the bearing, handle etc.
So the gear is coming together.
Can someone point me to where the detail/photo for making the press compress a bow and also to draw a bow.
Do I need two thrust bearings and how do I fit them together?
Thanks.
Lyle.


----------



## 92safari

shydog said:


> Found a local-ish supplier for the acme threaded rod, but has to order it in!
> Found a trailer manufacturer/repairer that was kind enough to give me a broken jockey wheel to tear apart for the bearing, handle etc.
> So the gear is coming together.
> Can someone point me to where the detail/photo for making the press compress a bow and also to draw a bow.
> Do I need two thrust bearings and how do I fit them together?
> Thanks.
> Lyle.


The size of the steel isn't that important as long as its large enough for your internal parts and close enough in size for a reasonable fit that you can work with for your sliding parts. You can always use shims to make closer fits. If you are planning to use your press for both pushing and pulling; then you would want a bearing both on the inside and outside for things to work smoothly both ways. Doing this will shorten the amount of rod that is left outside the press for your handle though. 10" of jack travel should work, but I would say on the minimum side of preferrence. Fine for compression, but it may be close for relaxing some bows.


----------



## Alsoran2

Like others before me, the hangers are the only thing holding me up on this project, please PM me if you are selling them and include a price.


----------



## 92safari

Alsoran2 said:


> Like others before me, the hangers are the only thing holding me up on this project, please PM me if you are selling them and include a price.


Any number of arrangements will do fine.


----------



## 92safari

Alot of people asking about details for the sliding pieces I used on some of the later press designs I've shown. The way I prefer building them is with the sliding adjustable legs and both sliding right and left side assemblies just because I like to be able to press my compound crossbows and grandsons youth bows on the same press I use for my standard vertical bows. Plus its kinda nice to be able to just use it outside on a table, bench mount it, or wall mount it at will. They can be built this way reguardless of wether you build the slimline style with sq tube mounts, or the more traditional style with 90 degree arms. If you're not concerned with pressing crossbows or super short youth bows; then you really don't have to have both assembly pieces slide, but I still like sliding legs for all the reasons mentioned and it still leaves the main press body versatile enough to try different add ons and such later; like maybe a string tensioner, tool tray, a vertical support for crossbows, different style legs with "caution bars", or possibly a vertical support for a rope and pulley type draw attachment, etc.


----------



## 92safari

I posted alot of pics as I went along with the other presses, but I guess I didn't give many details on the bits and pieces; I just kinda assumed it was obvious. I'll start another one and list more details and measurements of the few extra parts I use. I think I covered the Jack tube assembly fairly well in the first couple pages; so I'll just start from there with the next press.


----------



## Big Easy

92, This has been an awesome thread. I have the whole thing printed and will be using it soon to build my own press. The sliding pieces really make it versatile. Thank you for posting all that you have.


----------



## shydog

*acme thread - differences*

Just sourced the acme threaded rod that I needed. Bloody doesn't fit does it.
Answer from supplier - not our fault you should have told us the type of acme thread you wanted.
Just a little peeved as I spent a considerable time talking to their sales rep re what I needed amd he ordered it for me.
$40 out of pocket with no refund as it was a 'special' order!!! I'm crossing them off my Christmas card list.....
Nothing is ever easy here in Oz for ordering stuff.
I'm going to make this slimline work if it is the lsat thing I do!!!!


----------



## 92safari

What about it doesn't fit? Seems that as long as its reasonably long enough, and you have the proper threaded nut for it; You should be able to size the tubing to what you'll need for the rod.


shydog said:


> Just sourced the acme threaded rod that I needed. Bloody doesn't fit does it.
> Answer from supplier - not our fault you should have told us the type of acme thread you wanted.
> Just a little peeved as I spent a considerable time talking to their sales rep re what I needed amd he ordered it for me.
> $40 out of pocket with no refund as it was a 'special' order!!! I'm crossing them off my Christmas card list.....
> Nothing is ever easy here in Oz for ordering stuff.
> I'm going to make this slimline work if it is the lsat thing I do!!!!


----------



## Westaussieguy

Hey Shydog, I am making my second linear press and I am using 5/8 threaded rod, it winds a bit slower but does the job just fine and it was $10.00 from Makit Hardware with a standard whitworth nut. I got my last rod from Bunnings and it was about the same price. I couldn't get acme rod from anywhere so I just made do with what I could get and it works great. I have pressed 80# limbs with it without any worries at all. I made the coat hangers from 12 mm square bar and they work a treat as well and just covered them with 12mm plastic tube from the gardening dept at Bunnings.


----------



## shydog

The acme nut supplied with the rod I don't feel safe with. It is a loose fit and only has three threads in depth. So I am not confident that it'll take the pressures. I'm making the press a drawboard too.
I am sourcing more acme threaded rod and making sure that it is exactly what I want.
I have seen the whitworth threaded rod and ruled it out for the number of turns per inch needed to get it to go.

I have gone down a rabbit hole and will keep it going as I want to finish this press as to my design.
westaussieguy, what size tubing did you use and what is the material thickness?


----------



## 92safari

I'll wait to post pics until I have them all together so I can post everything in a string of posts. That way it will be easier to follow.


92safari said:


> I posted alot of pics as I went along with the other presses, but I guess I didn't give many details on the bits and pieces; I just kinda assumed it was obvious. I'll start another one and list more details and measurements of the few extra parts I use. I think I covered the Jack tube assembly fairly well in the first couple pages; so I'll just start from there with the next press.


----------



## Westaussieguy

Shydog, I used 40x40mm x2mm gal tube for the outer and 35x35mm x 1.6mm for the inner, it fits very well and there is only a very small amount of slop and once you have pressure on the fingers it doesn't seem to matter. Threaded rod for a draw board is no good and I used a boat winch for mine. On the press I have an slider for the left hand set of fingers so I can adjust for the length of the bow very easily and then about 3 turns is enough to adjust or fit a peep and 5-6 to take a string off.


----------



## TXBuckhorn

This has got to be one of the best threads I've seen yet.....great job.


----------



## shydog

Well got it done. Just waiting on the fingers to finish it off. Need to see how long to make the arms for the fingers and where to drill the holes for the slider arm.
Really happy with the result.
Learnt a lot along the way and made changes on the fly to adapt to bits and pieces that didn't work as I wanted. Made mistakes that I had to correct.
But had a ton of fun doing it.
Waiting to see how it performs under load.
Thanks to 92safari for the excellent thread.


----------



## 92safari

What??? Thats it?? No pics of your progress so far?? Just a tease??


shydog said:


> Well got it done. Just waiting on the fingers to finish it off. Need to see how long to make the arms for the fingers and where to drill the holes for the slider arm.
> Really happy with the result.
> Learnt a lot along the way and made changes on the fly to adapt to bits and pieces that didn't work as I wanted. Made mistakes that I had to correct.
> But had a ton of fun doing it.
> Waiting to see how it performs under load.
> Thanks to 92safari for the excellent thread.


----------



## shydog

No photos, who'd want to look at my poor welding???? Although when it is fully finished I'll post up a picture.
As a welder I make a great street sweeper!

It needs a clean up for welding dags, and some smoothing down of rough edges etc, but it'll work a treat. Can open out to 55 inches and close down to 23", so should fit most bows and take them down.

Made a few mistakes like not protecting nearby threads when welding (doesn't that make a easy job difficult!).


----------



## 70oldsracer

My press is a combination of ideas from 92safari and b0w bender. I took the easy way out and used a square tubed Harbor Freight jack (ideas from b0wbender), which made things a lot easier for me. I decided to weld everything together (ideas from 92safari) to make it a solid unit. I'm just waiting on some fingers, need to build a removable stand to keep the weight down when and if I transport it and a nice paint job and I'm done. I'm also thinking about using two seperate pieces of square tubing to mount the fingers on so they can slide on and off the press, again for ease of transport or for future changes. This is a great thread and I couldn't of done it without the help of the guys mentioned above. Here are some pics.


----------



## 70oldsracer

Here are a few more pictures and I can't wait until it is done. I'll post more pics when it is completely finished.


----------



## 92safari

I've done that before too; slopped spatter onto my threads. Usually not a big worry. I just chucked the rod into a screw gun and held onto it with an old rag while I spun it to get all the grease off; then hit it with a wire brush or better yet a wire wheel in my grinder. That always cleaned everything right up. Be sure to always* ALWAYS* wear atleast safety glasses when grinding, cutting, or wire wheeling. I've gone twice in the last year to have crap ground out of my eyeballs from doing just a quick cut on something, and one of those I was wearing safety glasses at the time. Also be aware that when using wire wheels; they throw loose wires at you that will stick in your clothes as well. So always be carefull working with metal and high speed tools.


shydog said:


> No photos, who'd want to look at my poor welding???? Although when it is fully finished I'll post up a picture.
> As a welder I make a great street sweeper!
> 
> It needs a clean up for welding dags, and some smoothing down of rough edges etc, but it'll work a treat. Can open out to 55 inches and close down to 23", so should fit most bows and take them down.
> 
> Made a few mistakes like not protecting nearby threads when welding (doesn't that make a easy job difficult!).


----------



## klean1

I owe a ton to this thread, and the other inline threads out there. I took some ideas from this one, and the original trailer jack thread. For less fabrication, the trailer jack works well. My next step is to remove the handle, and put a wheel on the end, much like you see on the custom fab units. or ezpress. I've looked into it, and I can do it by knocking that gear off, and putting a collar on and a shaft extending out with a wheel mounted on it. This is my drop leg jack inline press that I built. Took me about 4 hours. I suck at welding, and really didn't want to spend a ton of time with it since I have to weld where the welder is, at my dad's ranch, which is a few hours from here. But, we cut the pieces of angle with the metal bandsaw and welded them on in short fashion. I ended up having to beef up the angle iron with another piece, as they deflected way too much. Next trip down, I want to grind them off, and put on some tube steel, with a piece of tube steel bolted on top, that way I can change out fingers faster for future bows. 

My "coat hangers" are just some simple 3/16" x3/4" flatbar that I bent in a vice. I marked the bends, then bent one, and matched each of them to the first one. Worked actually pretty easily. Took maybe an hour tops on the fingers. I have extra of the bar, so if I ever get another bow, I will just make another set of fingers for it. As for now, I only plan on pressing my Athens ACC34 to tune and peep sights, etc.


----------



## LvToHunt

I've never been over here on the DIY forum before. I've been missing out.The stuff you guys are building is great! For example this press. I love it especially since I like to tinker w/ stuff. I don't have access to a welder and the tools but have friends that do.Some are even bowhunters so I'm thinking maybe a little joint project is in order. Few questions for you guys. Why are the fingers moveable and spring loaded? Do you really need them moveable?Start to finish how long to build?


----------



## klean1

You want them moveable, to handle the different limb widths and spring loaded is for adjustment to limb angle. It took me about 1/2 day total time in my press build, but that really depends on the detail you want to put into it. If you use tube steel, and want to weld close the ends, and grind them smooth, or tumble the pieces for burrs etc, then it will take longer. My particular press, took me right around 4 hours or so. Maybe a tad longer. Took us an hour to cut and weld the pieces, and another hour bending fingers and lining them up for the bow, and a few hours to bolt everything together. It works flawless. Presses my bow down no problem.

Drop Leg Trailer Jack thread of mine


----------



## 92safari

*The whole setup*

OK; Heres the whole setup less the jack; to build one of the modular presses with sliding arms and legs. The legs can be used to bench mount, wall mount, or just freestanding as a portable unit. With the sliding arms; it can press the short youth bows as well as compound crossbows. We covered the jacktube assembly in the first couple pages; so I'll skip all of that and just try to detail the other assemblies. Here are the overall pics of all the parts we use. They are pretty much the same as before with the exception of some 14 guage 1 3/4" sq. tube pieces that we use for the slides. You could cut a couple extras to use later for any little add ons you want to try like a tool tray, an upright, a string tensioner, etc. Other than a jack and a couple washers; this is everything you'll need.


----------



## 92safari

*quick overview*

Here I'll just go over some of the parts for understanding whats what. Keep in mind none of this is in stone. This is just how I build them based on a 1 1/2" frame. You guys that want to use a Harbor Freight jack for your base might want to adjust some sizes here and there. My sliding pieces are 1 3/4" x 5" 14 guage tube. 11 guage makes a nice snug fit but too hard to get it in a consistant size; so I prefer working with a little too big than a little too small. I make them 5" long just so they are easy to use in a sq. clamp without being a little too small (pain in the butt). My tail piece is 1 1/2" x 10" 14 guage with a 1 1/2" x 6" arm for the hanger assemblies to mount on. I make it 10" so I have room for 3 set screw nuts on the backside. That way I can extend it past one nut and still have 2 to secure it in place if I ever need a few extra inches of extension. I've used these presses with only 1 set screw on each end without ever having anything slip, but I just like using 2 on the tail piece. I also use 2" gussets cut from scap tube to weld in the corners of my arms just for good measure.


----------



## 92safari

*legs*

The legs are pretty much the same as before. I use 2 of the 5" x 1 3/4" tubes and 2 of the 1 1/2" x 8" tubes for the sliding legs. I drill a 5/16" hole in the back of the sliders for the set screws, and drill another 5/16" hole on the inside of the legs 3" up from the bottom for set screws that will secure the adjustable feet. The feet are the same as before. 1 1/4" tube x 10" long with 45 degree angles cut on each end. I also drill a 3/8" hole inside the end of each foot for mounting if desired. The set screws are 5/16" x 4 1/2" bolts like before bent at a slight angle for comfort. I don't bend them at 90 degrees because people tend to over tighten them if I do. They don't have to be super tight; just snugged up good. It's more in the binding that keeps things from slipping. Personally I use a nice 2 1/2" knob in place of the levers on mine because its compfy and makes thing look perty, but for the sake of showing simplicity levers are fine.


----------



## 92safari

I'll go tack this stuff up now and post some more pics later to pull it all together.


----------



## Ricky 2feathers

Almost have mine done and will post pics in a few days. I built my own Hanger assy using a cutting tortch and grinder. May not be real fancy but will work great! Thanks 92safari for a easy and fun build!:thumbs_up


----------



## 70oldsracer

Okay almost done, just need some paint and this baby is ready.


----------



## 92safari

Sweeeet!!


----------



## 70oldsracer

92safari said:


> Sweeeet!!


Thank you, couldn't of done it without you. This thread is priceless.


----------



## WhitBri

ttt, subscribed


----------



## proelitefan

92 safari, youve got mail, thanks


----------



## thwackaddict

This is worthy of more pics!!!!!!




Tunaboy said:


> Hope I did this right, here are the pic's for the no weld press that I made with fingers I bought here.
> 
> 
> View attachment 1238310
> View attachment 1238311
> View attachment 1238311
> View attachment 1238313
> View attachment 1238313
> View attachment 1238309


----------



## bacon83

Anybody working on an attachment for the modular press to turn it into a machine to time cams? It seems like it would be more useful than to use a mechanical shooting machine to check timing. I can build stuff, but am not the best at coming up with ideas. I think that if this attachment could be designed it would make this already awesome tool even better!!


----------



## WyoBowhunter21

Love this thread! I am goin to start building mine over my spring break. Some people go to Cabo, I will stick to building archery stuff


----------



## 92safari

*clamping*

Here I have the leg and right arm set up in a clamp for tacking. I slide a piece of 1 3/4" tubing over the leg piece and arm to center it up on the 1 3/4 sleeve. I don't bother shimming the insides of these pieces because its not really needed. Its a matter of preferrence as to where you want to place the arm and legs on the sleeves. I just centered the arm and favored the right side for the rt leg, and left side for the left leg. My drilled holes are on the backside of the parts because I prefer the knobs on the backside of the press.


----------



## Jumpboots101

5 star thread, I'm still using the inline you made for me. :thumbs_up


----------



## 92safari

*tail piece*

Here is the tail piece. I mounted the arm 2" from the left side to leave room for the gusset piece. Holes are on the backside again for the knobs. This piece I do put the shim washers inside. Again not really needed, but a little nicer with a set on the bottom inside anyway. Everything ends up snugged tight once you tighten the knobs anyhow. Another pic shows the set screw nuts welded in place for the knobs or levers. You know; Really as far as the shims go; it would also work just to weld on some set screw nuts on the bottom and maybe one side and then just adjust a set screw for a desired fit and loc-tite them in place. It might actually work out better and easier since you can gain a near perfect fit. Hmmmm...


----------



## 92safari

*mock up*

Here you can see a quick mock up. Slide the right arm on first and its a little longer for all your bows. Slide the leg on first and it frees the arm up to slide over as short as you want to press your crossbow. Slide the legs on towards the back and you can wall mount the press to save bench space. The other is a pic of another option which is to weld the right arm to the frame if you dont plan on pressing crossbows and just have the legs slideable.


----------



## WyoBowhunter21

Okay so I have looked and looked for these coat hangers. Do you guys just have them machined?


----------



## 92safari

*assemblies*

I'll go through how I set up the hanger assemblies. Here are all the parts for the whole assembly for this style press. 4 sideplate mounts, 8 adjustment cap screws, 4 springs, 4 4 1/2" x 1/2" steel pins, 8 hitch pins, 2 1 1/4" adjusting knobs, 2 1" fender washers, 2 3/16" washers, and 4 hangers. I paint the hangers to seal the steel and give them 3-4 coats of plasti-dip; an hour between coats and cured well for 4 days or so to make sure it cures good and stiff. For just pressing vertical bows I can use 2 singles on the insides and 2 doubles on the outsides to flip over as needed. On this one though I think I'll use 2 doubles on the insides and 2 doubles on the outsides so I have the option of pressing my crossbows either stock up or stock down. I like choices


----------



## 92safari

*step 1 & 2*

First thing is put the inside hanger on the inside of the hitch pin on the blunt ends of the steel pins. Wheeeewww!! thats the hardest part. Step 2: we slide the 2 sideplate mounts onto the ends of the steel pins.


----------



## 92safari

*Steps 3&4*

Step 3: Now we put the outside hanger in place over the tapered end of the steel pins. Step 4: We then squeeze the hangers together and screw in the span adjuster knob with the 3/16" washer first, and the 1" fender washer second. This will hold the assembly together with only the inside mounts being loose. Last step is to install the tail adjusting cap screws so we don't loose them. Thats it... Once these are together we can set them in place on whatever style are we're using just being sure that the assemblies on both ends of the press are inline with each other. This can be done by measureing or using a straight edge along the outsides of the mounts. I put mine 3/8"-1/2" from the outer ends of my 6" arms and space my sideplate mounts 3" apart. Thats plenty of span for any limbs.
Set up this way makes it super easy to just remove the center knob and flip the hanger over if you encounter drawstops, or if you decide that you want to press a crossbow with the stock hanging down.


----------



## 92safari

*Slimline Style*

Now for guys building a Slimline style press with sq. tube mounts; These styl mounts can be used in a sliding fashion as well or as I said before; built with just the sliding legs giving different mounting options. So heres a quick run down on how these are assembled. I only show one set for simplicity. 4, 6" x 1/2" bolts, 4 springs, 8 cap screws, 2 steel bridges, 2 adjustment knobs and washers, and 4 double hangers. 4 doubles because all you do is switch ends for drawstops. As always; nothings in stone.
First thing is slide the bolts through the outer hagers paying attention to orientation. I always put them together with the drawstop hanger pointing down. Next slide the springs onto the bolts; Then the inside hanger. Once thats done go ahead and screw in the adjustment knob and cap screws. The last thing is to slide the steel bridge onto the bolts. Once the assemblies are in the mounts (I use 1 1/2" sq. tube with holes on 1" centers); the steel bridges are welded to the bolts which act as a stop and binds everything together in one solid unit that can easily be removed for packing the press in a bow case for a trip, tucking behind a truck seat, or just so you can try adding different contraptions that you want to try.


----------



## codykrr

Ok, so for those who are building the presses with caution bars here is what I came up with(I cant say "I" because someone else probably done it too.) 

Anyway, here is my take. 










You will have to have an extra bar sticking out past one leg.


----------



## codykrr

I do have a question(s)

I am building a more tradition style linear press. I was wondering if this can be used as a draw board as well? being the acme rod isnt all that long, do you think Ill have enough travel to even do that using this setup? I dont really want sliding hanger assemblies either.


----------



## codykrr

basically, I am needing to know how long to cut the main body tube, and the sliding arm, and have enough to press 30 ATA's to 34 ATA bow, and still be able to make parts to make it a draw board...


----------



## codykrr

just for reference this is how I am thinking of doing the drawboard on my press(unless yall got a better/cheap way)


----------



## 92safari

codykrr said:


> Ok, so for those who are building the presses with caution bars here is what I came up with(I cant say "I" because someone else probably done it too.)
> 
> Anyway, here is my take.
> 
> View attachment 1304065
> 
> 
> 
> You will have to have an extra bar sticking out past one leg.


Might be better if the left leg was moved over more to right a little.


----------



## 92safari

codykrr said:


> I do have a question(s)
> 
> I am building a more tradition style linear press. I was wondering if this can be used as a draw board as well? being the acme rod isnt all that long, do you think Ill have enough travel to even do that using this setup? I dont really want sliding hanger assemblies either.


Not enough travel if planning to use the press itself to draw a bow. I have seen others mount their hanger assemblies to 1 3/4" sleeves that slide onto the arms so they can take them on and off. If done that way; a winch can be made to slide on in their place. If you want to use the press itself; you would need to use a longer ACME rod.


----------



## codykrr

^ thats what I was worried about...dang it! so guess Ill just build a draw board separate then.

Ok so, with fixed arms on this press, how long would the body/sliding arm need to be to be able to press a 30 ata-35 ata bow?


----------



## codykrr

The only reason for it being so far left, it leave room for adjustability of the draw board attachment. I mean I would leave enough room to the end so the weld wouldnt interfere with the sliding armature.probably .5 inch? or so.


----------



## Ricky 2feathers

Just finished up with my press except for dipping my fingers! Thanks 92safari for the great build. I just made my hanger assembiles by cutting them out with a cutting tortch and using an angle grinder to smooth them out and using a pattern to get them all the same size. I also built two for the bows with String stops! Will sand and dip them in the morning! :thumbs_up


----------



## codykrr

^ hey how long did you make your main body tube/sliding arm tube?


----------



## 92safari

codykrr said:


> ^ thats what I was worried about...dang it! so guess Ill just build a draw board separate then.
> 
> Ok so, with fixed arms on this press, how long would the body/sliding arm need to be to be able to press a 30 ata-35 ata bow?


The jack tube assemblies are the same throughout the thread. We just played around with the arm pieces pretty much to come up with different configurations. With the body tube @ 30", tail piece @ 10" and arms 2" from the ends; it will measure about 28"-28 1/2" hanger tip to hanger tip. The inner tube is 42" or as long as you'd like.


----------



## 92safari

Ricky 2feathers said:


> Just finished up with my press except for dipping my fingers! Thanks 92safari for the great build. I just made my hanger assembiles by cutting them out with a cutting tortch and using an angle grinder to smooth them out and using a pattern to get them all the same size. I also built two for the bows with String stops! Will sand and dip them in the morning! :thumbs_up


Nice job. I like the color too


----------



## Ricky 2feathers

30" main body and 36" sliding arm. It has 14" of travel so I can do 41" ATA down to 27" ATA bows. Hope that helps!


----------



## hunting555

A page or two back, some of you guys were talking about getting the welding splatters off the metal before painting..... Here's a trick I was told by a professonal welder.

Before welding, spray the metal with hairspray. He said the splatters will easily knock off by hand with a wire brush and the hairspray comes off before painting with acetone.

He had a wife and step-daughter and he laughed and said he stayed in the doghouse most of the time because their hairspray always came up missing!!!!

At the time he told us, he was building himself a new welding truck bed. Here was all this flat, smooth steel he was in the process of welding on and there was no splatters to be seen anywhere. Dad asked him how he eliminated the splatters and he told us the trick. Sure enough there set the can of hairspray with a wire brush laying next to it.


----------



## dw'struth

Awesome thread 92!

70Oldsracer.......I was wondering how you got the slop out of the trailer jack that you used. Is that what the washer is for that you welded in? Thanks!


----------



## 70oldsracer

dw'struth said:


> Awesome thread 92!
> 
> 70Oldsracer.......I was wondering how you got the slop out of the trailer jack that you used. Is that what the washer is for that you welded in? Thanks!


Yes, exactly. I got the idea from this thread and it works great.


----------



## dw'struth

OK, thanks. I have my jack, and I am going to ask around tomorrow about getting some fingers cut out. Did you place a washer at both points of connection, or just the one? thanks


----------



## labs4life

I got my jack parted out, the round nut cut square, and the steel purchased. Hopefully by the weekend I will have everything put together and ready for paint. Out of town a few days this week, so that will hold me up some. Also my welder is at work, so that will slow me down some too.

Will post pics in a few days.....
Oh and for the best part, I will have less than $125 in the entire thing and I did it myself.....with a little help on them coat rack hanger thingies!!


----------



## shydog

finally finished. here it is cut and welded. I aim to do a short course on welding as my skills are not good at all.
I have load tested it to 120Lb and it held so I'm OK with that.
Paint work could be better, but hey it doesn't make it go any faster!








Here are a few more - detail of thrust bearing I had to use as the trailer jockey wheel didn't have a long enough threaded rod.
I made the threaded rod a little longer than the outer tube. I do not think there is a compound bow that will not fit in here.















Assembled photos. Finger details and holding my Matthews Conquest 3 at 41" ATA.
I cut the legs so that the press will fit onto the end of my workbench and I don't need to take the stab or sight off.


----------



## shydog

Thanks 92safari for the help in building this press. I am proud of 'doing it myself', although the step by step instructions here made it so easy.
Lyle.


----------



## 92safari

shydog said:


> Thanks 92safari for the help in building this press. I am proud of 'doing it myself', although the step by step instructions here made it so easy.
> Lyle.


Great job Lyle. Looks SWEEET!! Only one small suggestion; If you flip your pins around so the shorter end sticks out of the mounts on the knob side; It will make it a little easier to use the knobs; Unless of coarse you have tiny fingers  Thumbs up!! you did great and now you're not at the mercy of anyone to maintain your own equiptment. Self sufficiency and independance are among the greatest aspects of archery.


----------



## shydog

Yep, flipped the pins around (was in a rush to get the photos done). Murphys law says that'd happen!!
As I was building the press, I was looking at a draw board too. Discovered that my workbench will be perfect for it too. Just have to make a plate for the winch and a post for the bow and I can tune and draw at my bench without any troubles.
Great place for ideas to come out, makes AT a good resource.
Lyle.


----------



## 92safari

I planned on posting pics of the completed press I was showing, but a friend snatched it up as soon as the paint dried. I'll whip up a new one a not tell anyone so I can post some finished pics.


----------



## bhanisch

Awesome...posting for reference later.


----------



## dw'struth

92safari said:


> I planned on posting pics of the completed press I was showing, but a friend snatched it up as soon as the paint dried. I'll whip up a new one a not tell anyone so I can post some finished pics.


That's what happens when you build stuff so nice!:darkbeer:


----------



## shydog

I have been using my press constantly since making it. It is a dream to use compared to the old one-way ratchet boat winch with straps over the limbs. I don't have to take anything off the bow to press it, just slip it into the hooks and a few gentle turns of the handle and the string goes slack enough to do any adjustments.
Lyle.


----------



## labs4life

Got it all finished today....Just need to disassemble and paint.

I likey!!


----------



## 92safari

Hey; I got one like that too  Nice job!!


----------



## anarchyhunter80

pm sent


----------



## 92safari

I keep hearing from you guys that are finished and waiting to paint. GOT PICS ???


----------



## StoneChaser

Thanks to 92Safari's amazingly detailed photos and step by step instructions, great coat hangers,and a buddy with a welder, after about 4 hours of welding/painting and I've now got myself a bow press that cost me less than 1/4 of the price of a commercial bow press.

Only changes I made was to put the bolts on the bottom of the tail piece as opposed to the sides (keeps the levers/bolts out of the way), and shorten the overall length up by 1.5"...ended up using slightly heavier steel (0.100 wall was all I could find locally), and it worked quite well (it certainly stays put).

Degreased w/alcohol and gave it a few coats of Rustoleum Hammered spray paint....actually looks pretty good in person (Not the best photo, but it gets the point across).

Thanks again 92Safari!


----------



## justshutupnhunt

WOW, what a thread. 92safari how could a person get a set of those fingers?


----------



## oldracerguy

*Just build one already..........*

Awesome thread. Have used my press on all of my sons buddies bows, my daughter bow, and now a target bow I picked up off the classified section. These things make you just want to learn more and do it yourself!


----------



## McDragon

Something I've noticed about the Coat hangers from Safari92 is that the bow can be either pressed above or pressed below Depending on how you wanted to work on it.


----------



## 92safari

Ya; Most of the pics show double sets. I also have singles, and a general arrangement would be a pair of doubles with a pair of singles on the inner side. I guess I just lean towards the 4 doubles since I press my crossbows as well.


McDragon said:


> Something I've noticed about the Coat hangers from Safari92 is that the bow can be either pressed above or pressed below Depending on how you wanted to work on it.


----------



## 92safari

*standard single*

Heres the standard single arrangement.


----------



## autoguns

Nice work guys...If I didn't already have a good press I'd build one. Thanks for the posts...JW


----------



## 92safari

*Pac-Press info*

I went ahead a paid for a retailer sponsorship; so I will also be posting info on my Monster Pac-Presses in the manufacturers forum and classifieds for those interested in a radial style press that does it all.
Heres a quick pic just for referrence. Look for these in the appropriate forums


----------



## 92safari

*Dans Press Pics*

Posting your pics for ya Dan. Looks Great!! Turned out nice and looks like it works. Nice lookin bow too ..


----------



## Tarus

Thanks, 92. Fellas this is a great guy to deal with. Adjustability and craftsmanship are first rate.


----------



## tradtusker

really great thread and Presses 92 

Please could you pm me about the finger assembly's, and options available. Thanks


----------



## 92safari

*Joes Helium pic*

Heres you helium pic Joe..
(Notice that he doesn't have any adjustment screws in the fingers; so they are tilted all the way backwards.)


----------



## 92safari

I'm gonna modify the sideplate mounts just a tad this next order. Its just a simple change to the profile that they omitted from the original drawing I gave them. I'll post a pic of them tonite. It just gives a bit more finger room for adjust the hangers.


----------



## 92safari

*mounting sideplates*

Sideplate mount and new sideplate mount. Just added a bit to heighth and took a bite out of the tail end for a bit more finger room.


----------



## 92safari

I'll post some pics of the different hanger arrangements I had made up. 4 standard singles, 6 singles (2 for drawstops), 2 singles & 2 doubles, and 4 doubles. All can be used and mounted any number of ways shown throughout the thread.


----------



## willie7018

marking this to replace my cougar jim "x" press


----------



## 92safari

*4 configurations*

Well here are 4 different configurations for different desires. #1) just plain singles, #2) singles with optional drawstops, #3) 2 singles and 2 reversable doubles, and 4th) 2 doubles and 2 reversable doubles. I figure with all these I can have any set up I want, and they can be used with either type of mounts Slimline or sideplates.


----------



## nizzole

Got me some fingers....time to break out the bandsaw n buzzbox....you da man 92!


----------



## 92safari

*Tony's press*

Heres Tony's press... Turned out SUPER!! Nice job..


----------



## nizzole

Here's mine. I was going to build a stand for it...but it works fantastic in my bicycle repair stand. Thanks 92safari!
http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq191/ocmxer/IMG_8295.jpg


----------



## nizzole

sorry, one more time


----------



## nizzole

the bike repair stand lets you position it however you want.









draw board mode


----------



## 92safari

Now thats pretty slick  Good job..


----------



## 92safari

I haven't forgot about posting pics of the removable legs and such. I actually have a few built, but been too swamped building the radials get pics. I'll try to get some pics up shortly.


----------



## Thansen

I had one like that and didn't care for the way the Fingers contacted the limbs plus I couldn't press the a bow with draw stops unless I removed them. I made u bolt with slides on them so you could back one out of the way if needed. This isn't a bad plane you just have to be very percise with your holes the ones in the press I bought from PAC press were not and they had more movement them they should have thus causing the limbs on my Hoyt not to press even. Worked fine on my solid limb bows but the U-bolts like the guy in Montana make work much better. Just some thought. I tried to find the pictures on the ubolts I made but I cant located them. Basically thought they just slide into the existing holes once the other fingers are romoved.


----------



## 92safari

Hmmm...
Don't recognize the name, but sounds like you had one of the early presses without drawstop fingers that were mounted with bolts, but they still adjusted 3/4" fwd and back independantly.


Thansen said:


> I had one like that and didn't care for the way the Fingers contacted the limbs plus I couldn't press the a bow with draw stops unless I removed them. I made u bolt with slides on them so you could back one out of the way if needed. This isn't a bad plane you just have to be very percise with your holes the ones in the press I bought from PAC press were not and they had more movement them they should have thus causing the limbs on my Hoyt not to press even. Worked fine on my solid limb bows but the U-bolts like the guy in Montana make work much better. Just some thought. I tried to find the pictures on the ubolts I made but I cant located them. Basically thought they just slide into the existing holes once the other fingers are romoved.


----------



## moon29

great job, cant wait to start mine


----------



## 92safari

Any of you other guys have pics to share?


----------



## BUCK REAPER

Pm sent safari 92


----------



## PA Headhunter

Getting materials together to build one of these presses, where can I get one of those wheel type handles and are they very hard to change over to instead of using the handle that comes on the jack.


----------



## Jmoore12

Grizzly.com I went with a 6 inch weighted handle and the chrome spinner knob. I think it was about 12 bucks for the handle and three for the knob. Not bad really.


----------



## Leon Garfield

Is a 6" wheel big enough or should one go with an 8"????


----------



## Jmoore12

Up to you. With mine it was plenty.


----------



## PA Headhunter

Got another question about the press I'm building, my crx is 32" ATA so should I make my main tube the 1 1/2 should I make it 30" or should I make it a little shorter like 26" or should I mount the fingers a little further up the tube.


----------



## 92safari

Actually once the fingers are in place they are much closer together than you think as they all angle fwd from the mount locations. I believe you are building a Slimline style; I found it best to hold off on welding the main tube mount until after the tail is done and then you can dry fit the finger assemblies in place and put them wherever you like. Shouldn't have any trouble pressing a 32" ATA bow the way it is.


PA Headhunter said:


> Got another question about the press I'm building, my crx is 32" ATA so should I make my main tube the 1 1/2 should I make it 30" or should I make it a little shorter like 26" or should I mount the fingers a little further up the tube.


----------



## PA Headhunter

Thanks bill I'll try that.


----------



## Out West

This is the first time I've run into this thread. I ended up using a different thread to build my press, but this one is impressive at the effort you put into it. The updated coat hangers you designed are very innovative as well. Very nice...:thumbs_up Thanks for taking the time to post all of the details you did.......:thumbs_up


----------



## PA Headhunter

Sorry bill forgot to post up pics when I got it done.







already used it works great. Thanks Again.


----------



## 92safari

NICE JOB!! Looks great..


----------



## moon29

*finished bow press*


----------



## 92safari

:thumbs_upVery good  Looks nice and sturdy


----------



## huntnutsbro

so i have tossed the idea around of buying a press, and pmed back and forth with 92safari, and decided i had the stuff so i would try my hand at it. here is a pic of what i got done in a couple of hours today. it has 15 inches of travel, and i am hoping it works out that i can add an attachment to use it as drawboard also. time will tell. 








my legs and feet will put my main tube 12 inches off the table, will this be high enough? im thinking of offsetting the feet so the hangers are off the edge of the table also. what do you guys think?


----------



## 92safari

12" is plenty high enough for a bow. The fingers will be another 5-6" above the 1 1/2" arms. Offset feet are fine too. Mine are offset and can be flipped around as needed. You'll want your arms to be around 6".
Looking good so far


----------



## huntnutsbro

thanks 92! i should have done this long long ago! lol no more "gotta find time to go to the archery shop" for me. my new strings and cables should be here next week sometime, hoping i can do it myself now.


----------



## Onytay

Thanks Safari for the great write up and to everyone else who has showed off their presses, once I get a design configuration hammered out ill get one slapped together! Thanks!


----------



## dfII

*Plans Please?*

Hey i'm new on here and probably ticking some of you guys off with some of my requests and questions. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Are you selling these or parts of them? I am going to make one but looking for some good heads up on stuff. Printed several different parts lists and diagrams of different designs already and looking to use the best of each all in one. Do you guys have a way to get other's email address on here? Not sure what pm means. Anyway my email is [email protected]. I really need a press since it's an hour and a half one way to the nearest shop that can press my insanity and he's not always available. Plenty of friends and family here that would be thankful as well. No more wasted gas and time, more time shooting


----------



## speedgoat

great thread. i am subscribed


----------



## scotts98rt

Going to make one as well. My need is for a crossbow, so it got me thinking if the mec. advantage of a small boat winch with a steel cable would be better than the threaded rod. Also I have the winch already, i was thinking that i could secure with a couple grade 8 bolts then weld base of winch to press. and secure the hook end with another grade 8 thru the loop of cable. Although it wont look as nice it should compress 175 lbs with little effort compared to turning the threaded rod.


----------



## 92safari

Seems like it would work. Page 9 shows my crossbow press. I tried replying to your message , but you have no contact method enabled.


----------



## scotts98rt

sorry take care of that asap.


----------



## muddyboots

Excellent design. Anybody fabbing the fingers?


----------



## 92safari

fingers....what fingers....


muddyboots said:


> Excellent design. Anybody fabbing the fingers?


----------



## 92safari

Gonna be restring a few bows and crossbows this weekend and finally built a couple extra presses for myself..shushh... I might actually get to use one myself if I keep it quiet long enough. I'll post some new pics when I get done. I love seeing all the pics sent in of you guys building your own presses. Don't be shy..


----------



## Onytay

I received the final component for my press today!!!! From reading back through the tread it looks like 3" spacing for the hanger mounting plates is what I want? Also was planning on making my tubes 24" each, do you think that will give me an acceptable spread for most bows?


----------



## 92safari

Onytay said:


> I received the final component for my press today!!!! From reading back through the tread it looks like 3" spacing for the hanger mounting plates is what I want? Also was planning on making my tubes 24" each, do you think that will give me an acceptable spread for most bows?


3' spacing is what I do. That leaves room for even the widest of bows. 2 24" tubes won't work out well unless you were making a small one for crossbows. 24" + 15" jack travel would only stretch out to less than 38" max. Not to mention you loose about 6" from fwd angle of the hangers. I've found a good all round measurement to be 30" outer tube and 42" inner tube with the 6" arms about 2" from the ends.


----------



## Onytay

I failed to mention that I am not using a jack, I got a 3ft acme threaded rod and hanwheel, my Mathews helium is 30 ata was making sure that I would be able to press it as well as longer bows


----------



## 92safari

aah... I'd lay everything out first and see how long you'll want everything for yoour bow then. You'll want your inner tube to be long enough to leave 8-10" inside the outer tube when fully extended.


----------



## Onytay

Ok once I get back to a desktop and a not pad for some math figures ill see what I come up with... I would like to figure ot corrects lengths to cover 40in ata down to the 28 ata that the Z7 Extreme has, I don't think anyone of my buddies bow are any longer than that anyways


----------



## Onytay

I wasn't thinking about leaving the extra ten inches inside the main tube when fully extended..... may need to adjust the inner tube for that. Also do you think the gussets are needed for the hanger arms?


----------



## 92safari

I like using gussets because they are simple and add a great deal of strength. I press my crossbows as well. When you lay it out; lay out your hanger assemblies and get your min and max from the insides of those. Then make your tubes according to that. You can use other plans as a guide, but depends on fwd sweep of hangars as to exact lengths you'll want.


Onytay said:


> I wasn't thinking about leaving the extra ten inches inside the main tube when fully extended..... may need to adjust the inner tube for that. Also do you think the gussets are needed for the hanger arms?


----------



## Onytay

Ok will do


----------



## trapc45

Posting for later!!!! Great thread.


----------



## NJlungbuster

Got my last pieces today from Bill. I'll be welding them on tomorrow hopefully. I'll take pics when done.


----------



## JAlbers

Bookmark installed... Great thread!!!... Thanks


----------



## dfII

Could you please get ahold of me for some of these finger? I think you may have once but i can't find it. Thanks.


----------



## dfII

Here's what i got so far. Started another thread and shouldn't have. This one is great. Like everyone else is saying, thanks alot for all the info and getting back in touch with me. Looking forward to getting this done.


----------



## Big Easy

I was all set to build one of these presses, but my access to a welder seems to have fallen through. I hope this isn't considered hijacking a thread, but I'm looking for some advice on an inexpensive welder. I saw on some earlier posts that some of you say the cheap Harbor Freight welder would be good for this type of build. Those of you that have experience with this welder, what do you think? I'm not looking for a production welder. This would only be used once in awhile for hobby projects like this press. I don't have a ton of money to sink into it, but if possible, I would rather learn and weld it myself than pay someone to weld it. I like the idea of building this myself. Again, sorry if I hijacked, but it seems that many of you following this thread have a lot of know how.


----------



## dfII

I wish i could help. Lucky for me i have access to several welders and plasma cutters and bandsaws at work. Wish a mill were part of that array. Techinically we do have a mill but it's a raymond mill used for pulverizing bentonite into powder. Not much use for a press. I do know one freind of mine just spent a grand on a 110 wire feed with the tank and everything. It is an awesome 110. By far the best i've seen. If you're looking to spend that much let me know and i'll give you all the info on it.


----------



## 92safari

A 90 amp+ 110 welder should be fine for what you're going to be working with. 14 guage steel is thinner than 1/8". Once you have one and get some practice with it you'll find all sorts of projects to use it on. Obviouslly a Harbor Freight 110 welder won't be as good as a Lincoln or such, but it will get you in the game. Get as much welder as you can safely afford and go for it. Have some fun.


Big Easy said:


> I was all set to build one of these presses, but my access to a welder seems to have fallen through. I hope this isn't considered hijacking a thread, but I'm looking for some advice on an inexpensive welder. I saw on some earlier posts that some of you say the cheap Harbor Freight welder would be good for this type of build. Those of you that have experience with this welder, what do you think? I'm not looking for a production welder. This would only be used once in awhile for hobby projects like this press. I don't have a ton of money to sink into it, but if possible, I would rather learn and weld it myself than pay someone to weld it. I like the idea of building this myself. Again, sorry if I hijacked, but it seems that many of you following this thread have a lot of know how.


----------



## DHoovler

Well...It's finally done! I've been wanting my own press now for quite awhile and this thread inspired me to do it. I don't have a welder so everything is bolted in place. I lost 3 inches of travel on the jack from using the bolts but it can extend well beyond what I need. The only welding that was done was on the finger mounts which is greatly appreciated! The original plan was to have the fingers on one side of the trailer jack and a draw board on the other but then I decided to just put my vise on the other side. The draw board is my next project...I'll mount it to the side of my bench...maybe I'll get to it this weekend. 
The press works great! Already used it to install my peep. Pics below. The first two are with the bow in the press and the other two are with the bow in the vise. I'm not too excited about the stand it's on but I found it cheap at HF...I think I paid less than 14 bucks for it. I'm already thinking about upgrading...The wife may not be too happy about that but I got my eye on the rockwell jaw stand at Lowes. Much better stand and I would be able to rotate it 90 degrees but I don't know if I want to spend that much on it. Maybe Santa will bring me one this year! :wink: Maybe I should ask him for a welder too!


----------



## 92safari

Anyone have more project pics ready ??


----------



## 92safari

*PaPa done good last nite *

I just had to show off my 17 pointer from last nite.. WhaaHooo! Biggest barrel chested deer I've ever seen walking in the woods. 
20" inside spread, 190 lbs. dressed, split brow tines and kickers all over the place. 3 encounters with him starting before daylight. First 2 much too far away. After agressive calling through the morning and evening; The 3rd. encounter he came too close to my stand 20 minutes before dark  
Shot with Bear Carnage 70#, PSE X-weaved 200 carbon arrow, Vortex 125 grn. broadhead.


----------



## Tarus

Congrats on a deer of a life time. It couldn't have happened to a better fella but sure wish it would happen to me.


----------



## 92safari

Find some reassurance and inspiration in this then. I can't go on these $3000 hunting trips, and no sponsor buddies with with woods and 24-7-365 feeders. I'm just and aging Joe Blow with a broken back, bad knees, reconstructed left arm nerves, and an artificial implant in my shooting eye (with an archery addiction); with less than 3 acres on riverbottom near home to hunt on. If it eventually happened for me ; have no doubt whatsoever that it can damn sure happen for you....
The only sure thing is you WON"T win if you don't play..
Pre-Rut is starting to peakout here. Last 2 weeks of archery is the best part of the whole season. Go out, have fun and GOOD LUCK...


Tarus said:


> Congrats on a deer of a life time. It couldn't have happened to a better fella but sure wish it would happen to me.


----------



## gobbler2577

Congrats Bill on a great deer. I really don't know you, but what I know about you I believe if anyone deserves it you do. Now to the point. I finished up my press yesterday and I am sure tickled with it. I can't thank you enough for this thread and the inspiration to do it. I have the tools and skills to do this kind of stuff, but my problem is in creative thinking. If someone can show me how something is done I can do it, but left to my own I end up running in circles. I'm going to attempt to add a picture, but have never done it so don't hold it against me if it doesn't work.


----------



## Rick!

Two days of freezing rain and high winds kept me out of my deer stand so I started this and it became an obsession. It doesn't looke like much but I've got about 25 hours in it so far and about 2 more hours to go before spending a bunch more time making drawings. So far it's only in CAD but I've started ordering some parts. It fixes some issues with current presses and has some improvements to make it more versatile. I'm going to use a 36" 2-start 1/2-10 ACME rod so it can be used as a draw board. I also found some online resources for hand wheels (Grizzly Industrial), acme rods and nuts (dumpstercnc.com) and quick pins (Reid Supply) to speed up the parts gathering process. I really like that RAM mount above for a bow vise, that's awesome!


----------



## Rick!

Big Easy said:


> I was all set to build one of these presses, but my access to a welder seems to have fallen through. I hope this isn't considered hijacking a thread, but I'm looking for some advice on an inexpensive welder. I saw on some earlier posts that some of you say the cheap Harbor Freight welder would be good for this type of build. Those of you that have experience with this welder, what do you think? I'm not looking for a production welder. This would only be used once in awhile for hobby projects like this press. I don't have a ton of money to sink into it, but if possible, I would rather learn and weld it myself than pay someone to weld it. I like the idea of building this myself. Again, sorry if I hijacked, but it seems that many of you following this thread have a lot of know how.


Don't be afraid to contact a vo-tech or high school to help with your welding - our high school is always looking for projects for the more talented students.


----------



## cabbage2009

pm sent


----------



## mystic1219

Posting so I can find this later.


----------



## Big Easy

Rick! said:


> Don't be afraid to contact a vo-tech or high school to help with your welding - our high school is always looking for projects for the more talented students.


That's a good idea. My wife and I both teach in different districts. I'll have to run it by our tech ed guys.


----------



## wingbone

Big Easy said:


> That's a good idea. My wife and I both teach in different districts. I'll have to run it by our tech ed guys.


For those who don't have access to a welder, I believe using the 80/20 aluminum bar and fittings to build me up a press. This system has countless angles and fittings and would just require maybe a saw and drill as far as any kind of power tools. I know the bar and probably most of the stuff can be found on eBay but there might be cheaper alternatives, I just haven't researched it a wole lot Check out this link: 
http://www.tslotparts.com/


----------



## TGB Archery

Thanks to Bills help this is what I came up with. I think I might be a little new school in my thinking but why shouldn't I have both hands the bow when I am pressing it if i can. Also why have to turn a handle when I can just push a switch with my foot. My project took me about 3 hrs after I designed it to weld it up and assemble it so honestly anyone can do it with the right tools. One change I did make is I went from a 200 LB actuator to a 900 LB one because pressing a 70 LB bow was too much for the 200 LB one.


----------



## Kaizoku

Where did you source the actuator? Part number?


----------



## Rick!

Kaizoku said:


> Where did you source the actuator? Part number?


Same trailer jack theme, just electric. You can also get a linear actuator for about the same price.


----------



## redyak3

Love this thread, finally going to give it a go. We only got 1/8" and 1/16" tube locally, 1/16"is equal to 14ga correct???


----------



## Aaron Betzner

So how much for you to put together the materials in a kit so we can just weld and assemble? I'd be interested.


----------



## NYS REP

Sir,
Please post more information regarding the electric trailer jack or linear actuator.


----------



## redyak3

Got my tubing yesterday  tagged


----------



## TRMATTERN

Coat Hangers work Great. Thanks Bill


----------



## 92safari

Hey!! Nice work... Looks Great!!
What bow is that you're pressing ?


TRMATTERN said:


> View attachment 1534415
> 
> 
> Coat Hangers work Great. Thanks Bill


----------



## TGB Archery

It is a Dewert MBZ 24V Stroke Linear Actuator 900lbs
I bought mine off ebay for $50 ish dollars 

As for a kit the materials would be around $235 TYD minus the fingers and you would need to contact 92safari for that because I don't want to step on his toes.


----------



## 92safari

OK guys; Lets keep this a fun and informative thread and make your personal deals through PM's please...


----------



## TRMATTERN

92safari said:


> Hey!! Nice work... Looks Great!!
> What bow is that you're pressing ?


That's the Mathews Ez7


----------



## redyak3

TRMATTERN said:


> View attachment 1534415
> 
> 
> Coat Hangers work Great. Thanks Bill


Looks great!!! waiting on a A frame jack and ordering coat hangers on my project. Nobody has one here on the Big Island. Curious on the advantage of installing the hanger mounts on the side of the main frame instead of on top as you've done.


----------



## 92safari

*mounting methods*

Just another way of mounting. Mounting on top of the frame allows you to just switch the hangars from one side to the other for drawstops, but this ways means you'll always be using 2 drawstop hangars at the same time wether you need both or not. With this method you may get a slight amount of torque being that the ends of bolts aren't supported by anything but the hangars, but I've never noticed enough to worry with.
With the sideplate mounting method you can switch to using either one drawstop hangar or both as needed. I use this method more mainly because I also press my compound crossbows on mine.


----------



## OzArcher1

ttt


----------



## rww1977

92safari, I have sent you a pm. Could you please respond.


----------



## redyak3

The A-frame jack finally arrived yesterday and I finished the assembly. Touch up and some paint and it'll ready. Time to order a set of coat hangers...
Thanks Safari92 !!!!


----------



## 92safari

No progress pics ??


redyak3 said:


> The A-frame jack finally arrived yesterday and I finished the assembly. Touch up and some paint and it'll ready. Time to order a set of coat hangers...
> Thanks Safari92 !!!!


----------



## redyak3

Hope this works. Laptop is out of commission, posting with the iPhone.


----------



## redyak3

First welding project, learning on the fly. Sure is fun. I picked up a Lincoln Electric welder dirt cheap from a co-worker to learn something new, this press will definitely come in handy.


----------



## 92safari

Nice job ;-) You'll have loads of fun toying with different projects now you have a welder to play with.. Press looks great!!


redyak3 said:


> First welding project, learning on the fly. Sure is fun. I picked up a Lincoln Electric welder dirt cheap from a co-worker to learn something new, this press will definitely come in handy.


----------



## george2524

I found a source of just the acme threaded rod and nuts;

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=408-0200&PMPXNO=941030

the cost of a 36" X 1/2 - 10 piece of rod is (on sale now) $5.99 and the nut for the rod is $1.69 plus shipping!













45.


----------



## redyak3

Finished, I'm liking it, especially for my first welding project. Some ugly welds in the beginning, but they seemed to improve as I went further. Thanks again to 92Safari for everything. DIY bow vise next project.


----------



## redyak3

redyak3 said:


> Finished, I'm liking it, especially for my first welding project. Some ugly welds in the beginning, but they seemed to improve as I went further. Thanks again to 92Safari for everything. DIY bow vise next project.
> View attachment 1551577


Sorry for the crappy iphone pic... there really are holes for mounting fingers...LOL


----------



## cammed

Looks just like the one that other guy is now selling. Says he just came up with it. Hmmmm


----------



## A_LOTA_NOTA

Anyone have a set of hangers they would part with? I need some that will work with a draw stop bow.


----------



## buckman2591

92safari makes hangers for draw stops


----------



## hrchdog

buckman2591 said:


> 92safari makes hangers for draw stops


But now he is banned for some reason.


----------



## cammed

hrchdog said:


> But now he is banned for some reason.


Said he got banned for rest of month for posting on that other guys bogus thread. You can still email him directly for any and all parts or complete assemblies for that matter. If you need contact info let me know.


----------



## 138104

Wow, a paying sponsor got a time out for pointing out another guy copied his hanger design and was marketing it as is own. What a shame!


----------



## cammed

Perry24 said:


> Wow, a paying sponsor got a time out for pointing out another guy copied his hanger design and was marketing it as is own. What a shame!


Take a look at the first page of this build thread then look at that guys thread and see what you think. Definately got a strong oder to it..


----------



## A_LOTA_NOTA

I could make a drawing of the hangers if there is an interest. The drawing could be used as a pattern to torch the hangers out or saved as a burn file. I do not have a set of the hangers so they wouldn't be 100% as pictured in this thread.

EDIT: Something like this....


----------



## aread

Perry24 said:


> Wow, a paying sponsor got a time out for pointing out another guy copied his hanger design and was marketing it as is own. What a shame!


I don't think that 92safari is a paying sponsor. However it is a shame that the other guy has a design that appears to be a direct copy of his hanger design. 

92 probably got time out for losing his cool about it. The other guy is a paying sponsor and that gives him more pull with the moderators. Maybe not the way it should be, but that's the way it is. The moderators probably can't do anything. 92 will have to get a lawyer involved if he wants the other guy to stop selling his design.

JMHO,
Allen


----------



## buckman2591

Who cares about pull? The other guy is a blatant thief!


----------



## buckman2591

Who cares about pull? The other guy is a blatant thief!


----------



## A_LOTA_NOTA

Does 92 have a patent on the design? There are probably enough differences in the two presses that the other guy could legally consider it his own design. I think only 20% of the total press would need to be different. About 20 years ago I worked for a small manufacturing shop that made valves with round holes in the orifice plate, there was another shop that would copy our valves but put elliptical holes in the orifice plate, that change was enough to call the valve their own.


----------



## cammed

92safari certainly is a paying sponsor, and even the press version is right from the first page of this thread. The press was no big deal; they're all just modified inlines of various sorts. When reading the posts before they were all stripped; he was simply asking him to quit touting that it was all his brain child from a couple nites in the shop when its obvious that he simply traced out all the parts with no effort of his own. Anyone can build the press by following instructions in the thread. If anyone thinks that guys not salivating right now waiting for a burn file to be posted to claim it as well; thats just naive. He could have atleast put some of his own ideas into it. Atleast safari invested alot of his own time and money to come up with good assemblies that work well and make all the info available to everyone and help with parts. Everyone knows laser cutting and machine work isn't cheap unless you take the chance and have alot made at once.


----------



## A_LOTA_NOTA

cammed said:


> Anyone can build the press by following instructions in the thread. If anyone thinks that guys not salivating right now waiting for a burn file to be posted to claim it as well; thats just naive.


I am sure he already has a burn file if he is producing the presses to sale. This is a DYI thread, I was just offering to help someone DIY, if someone takes something I post and claims it as their own, so be it.


----------



## grapplemonkey

A_LOTA_NOTA said:


> Does 92 have a patent on the design?


How long have you been using AT?


----------



## A_LOTA_NOTA

A long time browser but just became a member this month.


grapplemonkey said:


> How long have you been using AT?


----------



## ruttnwapati

grapplemonkey said:


> How long have you been using AT?


What the hell does that have to do with anything. AT now have more rights for those with seniority?


----------



## A_LOTA_NOTA

Yes, They are in dwg format, I can also send them in dxf format so they can be sent to the burner.


----------



## pit adder

swet cad work!


A_LOTA_NOTA said:


> I could make a drawing of the hangers if there is an interest. The drawing could be used as a pattern to torch the hangers out or saved as a burn file. I do not have a set of the hangers so they wouldn't be 100% as pictured in this thread.
> 
> EDIT: Something like this....
> 
> View attachment 1553019


----------



## grapplemonkey

ruttnwapati said:


> What the hell does that have to do with anything. AT now have more rights for those with seniority?


Really? The question he posed has been a long time topic here... hence me asking. That okay with you?


----------



## ruttnwapati

A_LOTA_NOTA said:


> Yes, They are in dwg format, I can also send them in dxf format so they can be sent to the burner.


Right on......... thanks for the info.


----------



## 138104

aread said:


> I don't think that 92safari is a paying sponsor. However it is a shame that the other guy has a design that appears to be a direct copy of his hanger design.
> 
> 92 probably got time out for losing his cool about it. The other guy is a paying sponsor and that gives him more pull with the moderators. Maybe not the way it should be, but that's the way it is. The moderators probably can't do anything. 92 will have to get a lawyer involved if he wants the other guy to stop selling his design.
> 
> JMHO,
> Allen


92 is a paying sponsor.


----------



## aread

Perry24 said:


> 92 is a paying sponsor.


My error. I assumed that no stars meant no sponsorship.

Thanks for correcting me.

Allen


----------



## 138104

aread said:


> My error. I assumed that no stars meant no sponsorship.
> 
> Thanks for correcting me.
> 
> Allen


Well, at least he was. Maybe AT stripped him of his sponsorship due to the infraction?


----------



## Tony219er

Perry24 said:


> Wow, a paying sponsor got a time out for pointing out another guy copied his hanger design and was marketing it as is own. What a shame!


It is a shame, Bill (92safari) is about as nice a guy you'll talk to....the "other" guy that's stolen a design from 2 people (Bill and Last Chance Archery) is somehow getting away with selling "his" press design on here?! Must be friends with a couple of the Mods...total crap. You guys know where these hangers came from, don't give that other clown a dime of business...he's a crook IMO.


----------



## dw'struth

It is not the mod's place to bust people for patent infringement, but I'm sure "the guy" will be asked to explain himself to someone other than ATers.....and that's when reality will make an appearance.


----------



## redyak3

Tony219er said:


> It is a shame, Bill (92safari) is about as nice a guy you'll talk to....the "other" guy that's stolen a design from 2 people (Bill and Last Chance Archery) is somehow getting away with selling "his" press design on here?! Must be friends with a couple of the Mods...total crap. You guys know where these hangers came from, don't give that other clown a dime of business...he's a crook IMO.


Amen to that!!!


----------



## klean1

dw'struth said:


> It is not the mod's place to bust people for patent infringement, but I'm sure "the guy" will be asked to explain himself to someone other than ATers.....and that's when reality will make an appearance.


It is if they get C and D letters and have them on file


----------



## dw'struth

klean1 said:


> It is if they get C and D letters and have them on file


I don't think so. They aren't in a position to determine what is, or what is not infringement. I am not taking up for "the guy", as it is very obvious where his press ideas came from. I built an awesome press for myself, but never considered starting up a production line!lol

If AT were to make me, or you, a mod today, would we suddenly be qualified to make patent judgements.....not their place.

As for the C&D letter, that probably hasn't occurred yet in this case. Even so, it is up to the publisher to obey it, not the provider of a forum. (my opinion)


----------



## twistedfreak

Anyone know how to get ahold of bill


----------



## cammed

twistedfreak said:


> Anyone know how to get ahold of bill


Pm'd


----------



## Kaizoku

Looks like he has now joined the band as well. Hopefully Bill will get reinstated here shortly.


----------



## dw'struth

Kaizoku said:


> Looks like he has now joined the band as well. Hopefully Bill will get reinstated here shortly.


x2....he has helped a lot of people on AT!


----------



## 92safari

Al'righty then... Anybody miss me ??
Enough jibber jabber.. Anybody have some progress pics of their projects? How about an attached draw device? I don't use anything fancy myself, but alot of guys ask about it. I'd get more use out of a string tensioner really. One of the perc's of building a modular press is being able to experiment and add or subtract things whenever you get the urge and not worry about screwing up your original press if things don't work out.
I'm also working on putting together a build thread for comfortable two man treestands. I actually sit with 2 of my grandsons from time to time and had 500+ lbs in them between myself and one of my boys without so much as a creak.
I know there are alot of pages here, but really just about every page is full of different ideas and approaches from alot of different people who just took the first step and got started. So if you are new to the thread; take some time to scan through some of the previous pages and see if something trips your trigger.
Lets see some pics..
Happy New Year!!


----------



## rww1977

Welcome Back 92safari. My materials should be delievered tomorrow and then it's time to get started with the build. Thanks for all the help so far. I'll post up some pics of the progress.


----------



## Ob1.25

Good to see ya back.


----------



## Tony219er

LOL, looks like ol' Pit Adder got the boot..:thumbs_up good riddance...btw welcome back Bill!


----------



## NJlungbuster

Glad to see ya back Bill!! Just wanted to thank you again for your help with my press build. Unfortunately, I looked the trailer jack over last night a lot and it seems that the "guts" of the jack have an issue. I don't have the time or the money to put into starting over or trying to rebuild the "guts". If anyone is looking for a hanger assembly let me know. All you'll need is to buy the mounting brackets from 92safari. Pm me if interested. 

Thanks again Bill and glad to see you back.


----------



## SynapsesFire

Bump


----------



## redyak3

Did a cam swap last night, press works great!!! thanks 92Safari, had a blast building it and learning how to weld... who says you can't teach and old dog new tricks...:shade:








The one thing I found was that I had to take the string stops off the Dren to get even pressure as the cap screws "bit" into the fingertips.


----------



## MICCOX

ttt


----------



## MICCOX

92 set you a PM.
Thanks


----------



## MICCOX

ttt


----------



## 92safari

*mounts*

Nice!!! Looks like you got the wrong set of mounts though for that style press. I don't know why Mathews uses those big cap screws instead of just recessing them so they are flush. Press looks good though. GREAT JOB 


redyak3 said:


> Did a cam swap last night, press works great!!! thanks 92Safari, had a blast building it and learning how to weld... who says you can't teach and old dog new tricks...:shade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one thing I found was that I had to take the string stops off the Dren to get even pressure as the cap screws "bit" into the fingertips.


----------



## redyak3

Yup, the sideplates confused me at first, but I got them to work. Maybe recessing the cap screws would weaken the limb tip, wonder if a flathead screw would work???


----------



## NJlungbuster

I still have a set of hangers if anyone's interested. Pm me for info.


----------



## easyeriq

pm sent


----------



## vanddelor

pm sent


----------



## 92safari

Ya; Flat head is what I meant. You know; a tapered recess like you see on a door hinge plate for example so they are flush with the bracket.


redyak3 said:


> Yup, the sideplates confused me at first, but I got them to work. Maybe recessing the cap screws would weaken the limb tip, wonder if a flathead screw would work???


----------



## CayenneHunter

So, what style hangers do I need for my carbon element.

TIA


----------



## MICCOX

ttt


----------



## 92safari

CayenneHunter said:


> So, what style hangers do I need for my carbon element.
> 
> TIA


Standard setup would do ya.


----------



## yotebuster1200

I have a mathews Z7 and a MR6 my wife also has a pse chaos. I also work on my friends bows also (bowtech, diamond, pse, and mathews) Is there a set of fingers that will work will all these bows? How much are you selling your sets of fingers for? I am planning on building an inline press (I use a x press style right now) and would need everything in the finger assemblies. 
Thanks Scott


----------



## 92safari

yotebuster1200 said:


> I have a mathews Z7 and a MR6 my wife also has a pse chaos. I also work on my friends bows also (bowtech, diamond, pse, and mathews) Is there a set of fingers that will work will all these bows? How much are you selling your sets of fingers for? I am planning on building an inline press (I use a x press style right now) and would need everything in the finger assemblies.
> Thanks Scott


I never mentioned selling anything, but a similar arrangent would do pretty much all of those fine. I've never been a fan of using any inline press on radically preloaded/past parallel bows.


----------



## vtbowhunter3

My father and I just finished ours this last weekend, had a chance to play with it this week and just reassembled my invasion. Works great and much more user friendly then my old linear toad. Thanks for a great thread bill!


----------



## 92safari

SWEET!!! 
Looks like you and your dad did a great job... Now wait til your buddies find out that you've got a new press and its portable


----------



## turkeytom

p.m. sent


----------



## toddwagner

92safari
p.m. sent


----------



## Ericdba

P M Sent


----------



## 5forks

Will aluminum tubing work on this press?


----------



## 5forks

5forks said:


> Will aluminum tubing work on this press?


Bump


----------



## 92safari

5forks said:


> Will aluminum tubing work on this press?


Aluminum tubing of decent wall thicknes and the use of gussets should work fine for a press. You would have to make some changes as far as hangar mounting and acme nut/bearing assembly would have to be a screw secured type. I believe they use that type assembly in the "press plans" thread.


----------



## hiwese1

I have a quesiton about the fingers, why does the bottm one have a different shape the the other three tips on each side, is it a functional thing.


----------



## 92safari

hiwese1 said:


> I have a quesiton about the fingers, why does the bottm one have a different shape the the other three tips on each side, is it a functional thing.


Some bows have draw stop pegs on the cams and depending on their location in relation to the limb tips; (some are quite close and others are well out of the way) the hangars can be flipped over (1 or both) to avoid interferance with the stops.


----------



## Kaizoku

Edit: Nevermind. He beat me to the answer.



hiwese1 said:


> I have a quesiton about the fingers, why does the bottm one have a different shape the the other three tips on each side, is it a functional thing.


The difference you are talking about is designed for bows with draw stops. If you have fingers with the / \at the ends of them it can cause interference with your draw stops. Just an "ease" factor so you do not have to remove them from your cams in order to press the bow. 

On the "Y fingers" he made them so you simply flip the finger over when you are about to press a bow with draw stops. If that makes sense.


----------



## adrian_aka

hi,
I am new to archery and i am trying to build a press because in my country one is about 1000$, 
I studied the plans on this thread but i am not sure how to mount the screw to the square tube (i wrote squer ) so I made a drawing in PAINT of what I understood of the design* PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF IT is OK HOW I UNDERSTOOD IT *
I found the square tube, nuts, washers and acme screw in the hardware shop but just not sure how to mount them


----------



## 92safari

adrian_aka said:


> hi,
> I am new to archery and i am trying to build a press because in my country one is about 1000$,
> I studied the plans on this thread but i am not sure how to mount the screw to the square tube (i wrote squer ) so I made a drawing in PAINT of what I understood of the design* PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF IT is OK HOW I UNDERSTOOD IT *
> I found the square tube, nuts, washers and acme screw in the hardware shop but just not sure how to mount them
> View attachment 1588095


Check out page #2. it covers the nut and screw step by step.


----------



## adrian_aka

i read all the posts and i tried to illustrate how i understood the idea because i was not sure 
so did i or didn't i get the idea?
sorry if i am thick-headed :zip:


----------



## Kaizoku

You only want to use 1 nut and that is to be welded to the smaller diameter tube that extends out. You want to weld the washer on the larger diameter tube to help center and secure the acme thrust bearing.


----------



## hiwese1

thanks for the explanation, didn't think I needed it for my crossbows but figured it had something to do with the verticals.


----------



## 92safari

Anybody got some new pics??


----------



## 5forks

So I just made my fingers. I think they came out good! All I need for them is the springs and set screws. Now I'm just waiting on my tubing to be delivered.


----------



## 92safari

SWEET!!. If you check your ACE Hdw; The springs are Hillman #48's, You can also find similar springs at Lowes but just a hair lighter guage. For center adjustment screw you can make knobs with 3 1/2"-4" threaded rod, or run bolt through from the back of your hangars and use a common through knob. I posted some pics showing wingnuts rather than through knobs earlier as well.
They look good 


5forks said:


> So I just made my fingers. I think they came out good! All I need for them is the springs and set screws. Now I'm just waiting on my tubing to be delivered.


----------



## 92safari

I've got to swap some bus cables around on a Rytera Alien X today before it goes out for a swap I made. I'll use the bow/xbow version and post some pics later today.


----------



## 92safari

*Bow/xbow press*

Heres the Bow/xbow version with both ends slide adjustable, removeable legs and feet so you can configure it how you want for bows out to 50" or crossbows as small as you like. Legs can be freestanding, bench mounted, or wall mounted, adjustable heighth as well. Everything is modular so you can experiment by adding different things the the central jack tube assembly and still have the same multi functional press you started with if things didn't work out. I'm swapping bus cables around on a Rytera Alien-X in the pics; so I'll load a few at a time.


----------



## 92safari

*press*

Since I'm just doing a bow; I'm going to put the right side hanger assembly on the jack tube first, then right leg, then left leg, and lastly the left side hanger assembly. The Alien-X has a drawstop on one end (on my right); so first thing I do is flip the reversable hanger over to avoid interference and dial in the width needed for the limb. Next I adjust the width for the left side limb. Now just hold bow in place against the right side hangers while adjusting the offset of the hangers so they contact the limbs at the same time. Next we raise the left end of bow in place against the left side hangers and make same adjustments. Finally we slide the left side assembly over to hold the bow snuggly in place and snug down the 2 securing knobs on the back of the press; then give it a couple cranks and eyeball it to be sure its pressing straight. If not; then adjust the hangers until square.


----------



## 92safari

*press*

Once we have the string relaxed a little; then we can just lift the string off the cams so we are able to rotate them freely to get to the loops and do what we need to do.


----------



## 92safari

*pics*

just a few more pics


----------



## Out West

I think your design is very slick. I built my own press off of another set of designs and I'm very happy with it. But if I would have seen your setup, I likely would have gone with it. I love the finger design as well. Very cool....


----------



## hiwese1

One thing I would like to add is a chrome handwheel. Is there any that you recommend. That is a nice looking crossbow there.


----------



## 92safari

hiwese1 said:


> One thing I would like to add is a chrome handwheel. Is there any that you recommend. That is a nice looking crossbow there.


Haha.. Ya like that ol' sling shot? If you check the "press plans" thread; you can find some info on where to get good deals on hand wheels.


----------



## hiwese1

Thanks, I love using the press and find all kinds of ways to use it or excuses to use it lol.


----------



## gotmike

bump for a future build...


----------



## 92safari

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/Hand-Wheel-5-/H3472


----------



## oldschoolcj5

i like this press a lot ... i NEED to build one


----------



## panthalia

. I would like to give 92safari a lot of thanks for the coat hanger idea and gunner for the press plans. This thing is awesome.


----------



## 92safari

*Lookin goood!!*

Nice job.. Looks great !!!


----------



## 5forks

Here are a few pics of what I’ve done so far. I’m still waiting on my tubing to be delivered. It will be like a deluxe model.


----------



## 5forks




----------



## 5forks




----------



## 92safari

Looks like you got a good start going...


----------



## 92safari

*Sideplate mounts*

Plate mounts


----------



## dfII

Cool stuff guys. I made one too awhile ago. Pics are on here somewhere. Been getting alot of use lately. I plan making a couple of additions to mine. I know some have made theirs into draw boards. I haven't really looked too hard but is anyone making that removable by sliding the pieces in and out of the arm that the fingers are attached to? I left mine open for just that reason. Also i am considering making sting jig and stretcher attachments that will either fit in the same holes on the arms or maybe somehow along the main body. Then i wouldn't have to have all kinds of different things to pull out. Switch a couple things reall quick and making strings or pressing a bow or working on timing all with the same rig. The reason i am thinking i'll need to find a way to run the string jig off the main body is because i don't really know if the arms will support that kind of tension.


----------



## panthalia

Hey 92safari. I know one guy did it with removable square tubing that fit over each arm. Put the boat winch on the moving arm and the bow on the stationary arm. He said it worked very well.


----------



## 92safari

Yep, Thats a very easy way to go with it and does the job. I'm gonna work on a simple slide on upright assembly for the main tube with a suspended pulley so you don't have to pull the bow from the press everytime you want to peek at the timing.


panthalia said:


> Hey 92safari. I know one guy did it with removable square tubing that fit over each arm. Put the boat winch on the moving arm and the bow on the stationary arm. He said it worked very well.


----------



## Rowdy1059

Pm sent

Rowdy1059


----------



## dfII

That sounds really cool. Any chance you'll be posting pictures when you get it done?


----------



## 92safari

dfII said:


> That sounds really cool. Any chance you'll be posting pictures when you get it done?


Ya; if i could keep one around long enough to play with... I build the Monster Pac-Presses everyday of the week as well. I'll work on getting pics


----------



## dfII

Can't wait to see em.


----------



## 92safari

Anyone else making progress and want to share pics?


----------



## 07commander

Do you have a scale drawing, or a pic of the hanger profile to scale in this tread somewhere? I looked back over the whole thing. All I see is pictures with no dimensions. Thanks for any info.


----------



## 92safari

PM'd some info...


07commander said:


> Do you have a scale drawing, or a pic of the hanger profile to scale in this tread somewhere? I looked back over the whole thing. All I see is pictures with no dimensions. Thanks for any info.


----------



## Rowdy1059

Just need a little paint.














Rowdy1059


----------



## Tkrocky

Hey guys, it is a lot if thread to look through, can any if you point out to me real quick the best way to get the fingers? Does someone sell them or have the drawings to get themmachined?


----------



## 92safari

*Press*



Rowdy1059 said:


> Just need a little paint.
> View attachment 1618158
> [
> Rowdy1059


SWEEET!! Loooks great.. Almost a shame to paint. Gotta let us see it when you get your colors on. Good job!!


----------



## aljburk

Tag...


----------



## Canamxmr2011

Tag


----------



## 13third

tag


----------



## LeftemLeakin

I have a couple of coat hangers laying around.


----------



## 92safari

I'm sure this is something you meant to PM someone; right?


LeftemLeakin said:


> I have a couple of coat hangers laying around.


----------



## LeftemLeakin

Yeah sorry, stupid smart phones...


----------



## 92safari

*Strothers Infinity teardown*

Well; I need to replace a limb bolt on my Strothers Infinity so I figured I may as well post a couple pics. I'm glad I make these portable. I started doing this outside on the picnic table since the shop is a mess, and wouldn't you know it started to rain. No biggy; I just grabbed the whole thing the way it was and snuck it into the kitchen to finish up before Mama got back.. Didn't take long so I think I'm gonna hurry up and change the draw modules in my High Country X-11 while I'm in here..sshhh
*Note: Never forget cardboard on table top when sneakin your press into the kitchen.*


----------



## 92safari

*X-11 mod change*

There; Swapped out limb bolt on one, and changed mods on the other. Both bows done in less than 15 minutes. Now just gotta pack all the stuff back outside and all is well


----------



## 5forks

5forks said:


> Here are a few pics of what I’ve done so far. I’m still waiting on my tubing to be delivered. It will be like a deluxe model.


Well finially got all my material and had a little time to finish putting it all together. Can't wait to try it out.


----------



## 92safari

If you wanted to try a second mount plate; you could use 1/8" plate to save some span room. I use 1/8" plate for both of mine. Your single 3/8" looks pretty stout though. Commin along good. Nice job


----------



## 92safari

Anybody else making progress?


----------



## 92safari

*upgrades*

For some of you asking about how you would upgrade an existing press like a Hydra press and such; You simply cut off the block and assembly you have and replace it with a 4" piece of tubing or angle for the side plate mounts to set on. Here are some pics for an example (most won't need doubles on the inside, but for the sake of example).


----------



## scornedgrappler

Tag for later


----------



## redbone311

Mark for future use. Thank you!


----------



## 92safari

Lets keep things nice and you're more than welcome to participate.


redbone311 said:


> Mark for future use. Thank you!


----------



## 5forks

Just a heads up for people buying tubeing, get seamless tubing! I had ordered seamless and they delivered my larger tubing with the seam. I had to make a grove on the smaller tubing with a grinder.


----------



## 92safari

If you just use 14 guage steel it easily fits inside each other and the can shim the difference either with fender washers or .030 slick strips. I understand that you can get some kind of seamless from Mcmastercarr, but I always just use a 14 guage outter tube and use the slick strip shims.


5forks said:


> Just a heads up for people buying tubeing, get seamless tubing! I had ordered seamless and they delivered my larger tubing with the seam. I had to make a grove on the smaller tubing with a grinder.


----------



## cowboyup_again

tag


----------



## 13third

finished my conversion build up a few weeks ago










actually converted my Apple edge economy press to an inline

this is how she started her life lol


----------



## 92safari

Good job !! Way to be creative with what you have to work with


----------



## PASSTHROUGH

Question for those who have built and not used the canibalized jack.....

I am going to go with a ACME screw for my press project I am about to atart. Thinking of going 1/2"...Is this overkill, could I do 3/8"?? 

I am also going to modify the bearing end of the main tube to make it serviceable as I am going to build it to push and pull for potential draw board / shooting machine capabilities in the future and want to be able to lube and or replace parts as needed. I know, I know...It shouldn't ever need to be serviced but my thought is "why not?" since it will literally not change the cost of the project and be very little extra work...

The question I have is thrust bearings....I see MC has economy thrust bearings for less than precision applications....My question is about the dynamic load ratings...It states the rating is for inline "thrust" load, which is what we have here right??....The load ratings on these economy thrust bearings are very low...something lik 35 pounds for the ones that will fit the 1/2" shaft. Is this a stout enough bearing for this application??.....The next affordable option is needle bearings, but the washers are very thin and would need backing on the outer side for both the push and pull sides...I would use a bronze thrust washer, as I theorize a standard stamped washed would not be flat enough and would reduce the life of the bearing....So needle bearing thrust bearing would need 2 cages, 4 washers and probably go with 4 bronze thrust washers which brings the price of just the bearing setup to over $21....Granted that is not a lot of money but the idea here is an economy build rather than buy a pre-built....and besides...that $21 is more than 20% of the total cost of the whole project and the economy bearings are 1/4 the cost at $5.50. I know...I'm sounding cheap and this really is the working guts of the machine so I probably shouldn't chince. But it's sorta become a challenge to do this as cheaply as possible and end up with a quality piece when complete. 

What to do??


In and For Christ,

Glen


----------



## 92safari

No swet just using the rod. I believe mine are 3/4". I would think something as small as 3/8" would be prone to bending and have a much finer thread pitch. Unless you plan on cranking out 30" to operate your shooter; I don't know that you would need inner and outer bearings. Seems it would be easier to just make sleeves to slide over the arms like some others have done for switching setups.


PASSTHROUGH said:


> Question for those who have built and not used the canibalized jack.....
> 
> I am going to go with a ACME screw for my press project I am about to atart. Thinking of going 1/2"...Is this overkill, could I do 3/8"??
> 
> I am also going to modify the bearing end of the main tube to make it serviceable as I am going to build it to push and pull for potential draw board / shooting machine capabilities in the future and want to be able to lube and or replace parts as needed. I know, I know...It shouldn't ever need to be serviced but my thought is "why not?" since it will literally not change the cost of the project and be very little extra work...
> 
> The question I have is thrust bearings....I see MC has economy thrust bearings for less than precision applications....My question is about the dynamic load ratings...It states the rating is for inline "thrust" load, which is what we have here right??....The load ratings on these economy thrust bearings are very low...something lik 35 pounds for the ones that will fit the 1/2" shaft. Is this a stout enough bearing for this application??.....The next affordable option is needle bearings, but the washers are very thin and would need backing on the outer side for both the push and pull sides...I would use a bronze thrust washer, as I theorize a standard stamped washed would not be flat enough and would reduce the life of the bearing....So needle bearing thrust bearing would need 2 cages, 4 washers and probably go with 4 bronze thrust washers which brings the price of just the bearing setup to over $21....Granted that is not a lot of money but the idea here is an economy build rather than buy a pre-built....and besides...that $21 is more than 20% of the total cost of the whole project and the economy bearings are 1/4 the cost at $5.50. I know...I'm sounding cheap and this really is the working guts of the machine so I probably shouldn't chince. But it's sorta become a challenge to do this as cheaply as possible and end up with a quality piece when complete.
> 
> What to do??
> 
> 
> In and For Christ,
> 
> Glen


----------



## Thib454SS

Here is my version. I call it "The Beaux Press". Thanks Safari for your inspiration. I've been scavenging parts (dumpster diving) for the last six months and only have about 30 bucks invested.


----------



## cabage

Pardon me for not browsing through 20 pages of this thread, and maybe its been covered already, but how thick would you guys make the press fingers if made out of steel? I've got a metal fab shop down the street that is going to cut some for me out of steel. I would think 3/8ths would be plenty strong but are they wide enough for good limb contact, but not having ever pressed a bow i'm not the one who would know. 
And again thanks to every one who's contributed to this, it's quite the project.
THanks Andy


----------



## 92safari

cabage said:


> Pardon me for not browsing through 20 pages of this thread, and maybe its been covered already, but how thick would you guys make the press fingers if made out of steel? I've got a metal fab shop down the street that is going to cut some for me out of steel. I would think 3/8ths would be plenty strong but are they wide enough for good limb contact, but not having ever pressed a bow i'm not the one who would know.
> And again thanks to every one who's contributed to this, it's quite the project.
> THanks Andy


I use 3/8" steel and 3-4 well cured coats of dip (4days of curing). They end up around 1/2". Any thicker overlaps onto outer axels. 3/8" is plenty strong enough even for xbows.


----------



## PASSTHROUGH

92safari said:


> No swet just using the rod. I believe mine are 3/4". I would think something as small as 3/8" would be prone to bending and have a much finer thread pitch. Unless you plan on cranking out 30" to operate your shooter; I don't know that you would need inner and outer bearings. Seems it would be easier to just make sleeves to slide over the arms like some others have done for switching setups.


Going with 1/2"...that's good..

My real question was about thrust bearings.....about the dynamic load ratings...For the low precision ball thrust bearing, it states the rating is for inline "thrust" load is something like 35 pounds for the ones that will fit the 1/2" shaft. Is this a stout enough bearing for this application??

Does the actual inline thrust load for pressing a 60# bow actually equal 60# of thrust on the bearing?? Or is there a mechanical advantage by using the screw??

Anyone have any idea??


In and For Christ,

Glen


----------



## cabage

92safari said:


> I use 3/8" steel and 3-4 well cured coats of dip (4days of curing). They end up around 1/2". Any thicker overlaps onto outer axels. 3/8" is plenty strong enough even for xbows.


Sounds good i'll give it a try. Hopefully they can do it for under 50 so I can keep the build under a hundred bucks.


----------



## 92safari

Pretty Sweet!!


Thib454SS said:


> Here is my version. I call it "The Beaux Press". Thanks Safari for your inspiration. I've been scavenging parts (dumpster diving) for the last six months and only have about 30 bucks invested.


----------



## 92safari

For all you guys asking about a draw attachment; Heres a link that pretty much goes about it the same way I would. Looks like he did a fine job adapting a simple, effective rope and pulley method. I think it's worth checking out, and saved me the time of basically laying out the same plan. I prefer a hands on draw system to any mechanical setup that always runs the risk of over stressing the bow.
I borrowed this pic from codykrr's thread; hoping he doesn't mind. Kudo's to him for laying it out.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1722110&highlight=rope+hoist+draw+board


----------



## Tkrocky

What did you guys use to coat the fingers on your presses? I was thinking of using plasta-dip but it looks like it won't be thick enough unless I use like a hundred coats. Any rubber type coating that works well? Maybe like a shrink-on type thing ?


----------



## 92safari

Tkrocky said:


> What did you guys use to coat the fingers on your presses? I was thinking of using plasta-dip but it looks like it won't be thick enough unless I use like a hundred coats. Any rubber type coating that works well? Maybe like a shrink-on type thing ?


Depending on the fingers you use; either can be used. Straight narrow fingers can use heavy shrink tube. Trick with plasti-dip is use the dip not the spray. Youd need atleast 3 coats waiting several hours between coats to cure not just dry. Dont paint until you have a couple coats of dip on since dip doesnt stick well to the paint; then put last coat of dip after paint dries. When done dipping let them cure for atleast 4 days in warm dry place to get stiff enough to last when pressing. Get 2 cans of dip so you can keep topping off the other while dipping.


----------



## Tkrocky

92safari said:


> Depending on the fingers you use; either can be used. Straight narrow fingers can use heavy shrink tube. Trick with plasti-dip is use the dip not the spray. Youd need atleast 3 coats waiting several hours between coats to cure not just dry. Dont paint until you have a couple coats of dip on since dip doesnt stick well to the paint; then put last coat of dip after paint dries. When done dipping let them cure for atleast 4 days in warm dry place to get stiff enough to last when pressing. Get 2 cans of dip so you can keep topping off the other while dipping.


Awesome, thanks so much. That was what I was planning to do with the plasta dip but I wanted to make sure before I put it on and had to take it off or something


----------



## 92safari

Tkrocky said:


> Awesome, thanks so much. That was what I was planning to do with the plasta dip but I wanted to make sure before I put it on and had to take it off or something


No prob. Keep in mind it maybe a bit tricky at first figuring out just how to hang so they drip right without webbing in the corners. Tip them back and forth to get all the excess to drip off before it gets a skin on it. You can use a tooth pick or something to play with the drip so you dont get long hanging blobs when dry. Longer they cure the stiffer theyll be.


----------



## 92safari

*Pressing B2013 Bear Method 70 lb.*

Method pic


----------



## B52CrewChief

I'm going to be getting the materials on the list today when I get off work! Going to build me one, but what about the fingers, how and what are yall doing for them? I tried to send a PM but this Air Force computer blocks me from doing that!


----------



## 92safari

I replied to your pm's. if you still have trouble; just try shooting me an email instead.
Bill


----------



## 92safari

Well for some reason I can't upload pics now.. hmmm


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello All
Very nice thread. [ Later


----------



## 92safari

*Bear Carnage*

Heres a couple pics of on of my Carnages getting cable tweaked. The Carnage limb tips come over the top more than most preloaded bows but not quite as much as the Attack's do. I can do general maintainance (cautiously) on the Carnage , but not the Attack's. I prefer using my radial presses on those.


----------



## 92safari

I'll post some pics later of a setup I'm working on for a caution bar/draw attachment as an add on to the standard press arrangement. Still a work in progress, but it allows for the easy pressing of my Bear Attack and Carnage as well as everything else.


----------



## aljburk

Tag


----------



## B52CrewChief

Got mine cut out, welded up and painted, waiting on my coat hangers now, will post pics this evening!


----------



## 92safari

*Add on caution bar and draw attachment*

OK, Here are some pics of my take on some previously inovations put forth by other AT'ers. I wanted to make something that could easily be added to and removed from this particular press without changing the way it's built. It's probably obvious that I like simple, effective, modular sub-assemblies so no particular features are set in stone with anyones press. This way anyone can experiment with ideas and add ons of their own without cutting anything up to do it. If it doesn't work out then just put your sub-assemblies back together and no harm done. I've been meaning to put up some of these additional set ups for too long now; so may as well start now with the combination Caution Bar and draw attachment. It doesn't have to be a combination if you don't want a draw attachment ; then you just use a shorter center support tube. I'd still leave it a foot or foot and a half above the press frame though so you can always add a string tensioner to it for taking the slack out of your bow string when relaxing the press.
I wanted to make up this assembly with nothing but the same material already used to build the press since I'm sure everyone has leftovers from their build (right??). Oh; one exception was a 8-10" piece of 1" square I used at the top, but you can always change it to the 1 1/4" sq. 
The main upright and caution bar are 1 1/4" sq., the sleeves are 1 1/2" sq. The caution bar pins are 1/2", all the set screw knobs I used are 5/16" thread except for the little jib at the top where I used 1/4" just because. All the knobs can be replaced with the bent levers we've been using to save quite a bit of money; Although Mcmastercarr.com has some pretty reasonable. The rope hoist is just a 4 pulley game hoist that I put a better gripping rope on, the double end snap hook I used is a stainless steel 500 lb.'er. I know it's over kill but it was only $4. I made the caution bar a vertically sliding assembly on the main upright to adjust for different braced bows. The whole unit slides onto the main press tube between the removeable legs; so if you just added a base to the upright it could still be used as a totally separate unit from the press. I used 4 1/2" slide adjustable pins so you can either use one in the limb pocket and one outside the limb, or just put one outside the limb and one under the riser and just set the bow on top and drop the sliding pivot pin down into the bow grip and the bow is then securely captured. I set it up this way in the pics to illustrate how to easily press and draw the Bear Attack since that is arguably one of the most challenging bows to press without having to clamp special expensive fixtures onto the limb tips. With this set up it presses just like any other bow. The one thing I like to do on the Attack is to set it up a little lower in the press so the arch of the finger face makes contact at the tip of the limb since it doesn't really need the stops at the top of the fingers since the bow is secure in the caution bar now.
Since we built these with both ends of the press slide adjustable; It works out great putting the draw assembly right up against the left leg. By moving the right leg towards the center a bit; it leaves 3 or 4 inches on the right end of the press to just loosen the knob and slide the right finger assembly out of the way to use the draw attachment after pressing. This works out great for adjusting the cables and timing cams. Only takes a few seconds from pressing to drawing and back to pressing.
Now this is still just a quick mockup to give you the idea how things all work together with minimal parts. I'm going to spruce up the sliding pivot pin somewhat just because I want to, but it's all been set up and used quite successfully as it is. I'm sure we'll find something to tweak along the way with input from others. For some reason I can't load pics from my pc anymore; so I'll try loading a few at a time from my phone and do a detailed build section in upcoming posts'.
I'll also be adding a section on an add on horizontal draw/shooter conversion for the press since theirs probably still some bits and pieces leftover. Just need a simple $20 boat winch and pivot since we can fine tune with the press crank theres no need for a turnbuckle. Hope you guys find some of this interesting and versatile. Hate to see things get stale


----------



## 92safari

*Draw attachment*

A few more


----------



## 92safari

*more pics*

Don't know why it flipped a couple sideways... dangitt


----------



## 92safari

*last of the draw attachment pics*

last of'em. What do ya think??
Bungees aren't needed, but I just like using them so nothing has a chance of wiggling around between drawing and pressing and drawing and pressing while working on timing and such.


----------



## B52CrewChief

We, as promised, heres my build of 92s press.......

All the pieces cut out.....


Most of the milling work done......


Shims in the main tube......


3/4 washer welded on and ground down......



Srew sticking out after 7/16 washer welded on......


Rear hanger and crank handle......


Press put together.......


----------



## B52CrewChief

Putting a few coats of satin black paint on everything......


----------



## B52CrewChief

92, stop adding to the dang thing, you're putting me in de po house! Now I gotta modify mine soon as I figure your additions!!!


----------



## 92safari

You can whip up a modular frame with about 6' of you extra 1 1/2" sq. I use 4" pieces of 1 3/4" sq. for the leg sleeves and right side arm sleeve. A modular setup is nice since you can just slide the right arm over a couple inches out of the way when you want to use the draw attachment. A fixed position arm works too. Its just nicer to have full view and access to the cam when trying to time the bow. Main thing is removeable legs so you can slide the attachment on.


----------



## 92safari

Well... Where are all those nice finished pics you sent me via text?? I'm everyone else would like to see how you did.


B52CrewChief said:


> 92, stop adding to the dang thing, you're putting me in de po house! Now I gotta modify mine soon as I figure your additions!!!


----------



## B52CrewChief

Sorry man, been busy!! But here ya go.......


----------



## 92safari

Anybody else got pic updates??


----------



## 92safari

No one else making headway?


----------



## compaq4

awesome


----------



## B52CrewChief

I needed a bow vise as well, so I welded one up that attaches to one of the draw bars on the press, its removable and swivels 360 degrees......





And, after a little paint......


----------



## S.Alder

In to follow


----------



## redyak3

B52CrewChief said:


> I needed a bow vise as well, so I welded one up that attaches to one of the draw bars on the press, its removable and swivels 360 degrees......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, after a little paint......


Very nice work indeed!


----------



## stanlh

for reference


----------



## 92safari

*Shooting Machine add-ons*

Ok; I can't seem to figure outwhy I cant upload from my pc anymore and phone pics keep getting flipped sideways. Sorry.
Here are some add on revisions for adapting the press to also being a draw/shooting machine very simply with minimal parts and costs. Now at this point we have a portable/versa-mountable inline bow & xbow press with reversible hanger assemblies, all slide adjustable modular components with a caution bar, vertical draw attachment, and horizontal draw/shooting machine. I'll cover details and measurements once I figure out if I should do it here or a separate "add on" thread. The shooting machine attachmentsconsist of a sleeve with a pivot point, a sleeve and receiver arm with winch attached, and a sleeve with hangar assembly attached. These can be added to all the various press versions with simple modifications.


----------



## 92safari

*draw/shooting machine pics*

a couple of assembled pics. I'll post a couple with everything to date attached to see complete setup at this point. in next post.


----------



## 92safari

I just used the calipers from an extra release to put on the winch, and any fine adjustments if needed can be made by turning the press handle. I used a strap winch, but a rope winch will also do if you added an eyebolt as a rope guide. The strap winch was only about $30 or so and strap self centers so I found it to be a better, more cost effective way to go. This add on is very nice for paper tuning and looking for any cam lean or limb twists at full draw. Hang a bag target in the shop or take your press outside on a saw horse or table and you're all set. Now I'll be working on a paper tuning rack and a bow vise.


----------



## 92safari

*more pics*

whole 9 yds.


----------



## 92safari

*pics*

closer parts pics


----------



## 92safari

anybody else near done?


----------



## ClintR

which way do you hold your phone when you take the pic? Do you turn it sideways?


----------



## 92safari

I've tried both ways. Always seems to flip them sideways when uploaded. Wish i could figured out why i cant load from my computer anymore.


----------



## 92safari

*test pic*

upload test pic


----------



## 92safari

*ok, figured out pics*

just reloading pics


----------



## 92safari

*pics*

more pics


----------



## ClintR

The pics look great! What was the issue?


----------



## 92safari

*more*

few more


----------



## 92safari

Explorer browser. Switched to google chrome and whallaa


ClintRhodes said:


> The pics look great! What was the issue?


----------



## ClintR

Doesn't surprise me.  Some browsers can give fits.

Glad you got it figured out because my neck was starting to hurt. LOL 



92safari said:


> Explorer browser. Switched to google chrome and whallaa


----------



## 92safari

*more*

more


----------



## 92safari

haha, thanks for your help 


ClintRhodes said:


> Doesn't surprise me.  Some browsers can give fits.
> 
> Glad you got it figured out because my neck was starting to hurt. LOL


----------



## 92safari

*more*

more


----------



## 92safari

*pics*

almost done


----------



## 92safari

thinks thats all the redo's


----------



## n.vodden

Heres my press, courtesy of 92safari!



And here it is again, all set up with my Insanity CPXL mid-way through getting a new set of strings/cables. Hot pink & black, tasty!


----------



## Aussiehunter1

hi guys some great looking bow press's there! the question i have is, on some of these past parallel limb bows are you pressing in the tips of limbs or down a bit below the cam axle? and how far down the limb is too far ?

Cheers


----------



## 92safari

Aussiehunter1 said:


> hi guys some great looking bow press's there! the question i have is, on some of these past parallel limb bows are you pressing in the tips of limbs or down a bit below the cam axle? and how far down the limb is too far ?
> 
> Cheers


It realy depends on the bow, how long the limbs are, preloaded, center pivot, large or small cams, etc. on short limbed preloaded bows you want to press within a couple inches of the tips. If you go too low you'll see the tips wanting to bend backwards. Most all bows can be pressed at or just below the axels and still be tip pressing. Longer limbs 14" or so can usually be pressed just below the cams as long as you only press enough to relax the string such as alot of Mathews. Shorter limbs 13" or less and center pivot bows have to be tip pressed (at or right near the axels) to avoid limb over stressing. With a press like these and the additional caution bar; you can press whatever you want even Bears with any special limb clamps. Fingered radial presses are also good for about anything including recurves ( atleast with fingers like my Monster Pac-presses that can be used anywhere along the span of the limb). Keep in mind most presses like these don't have radiussed faces and aren't nearly as adjustable.


----------



## 92safari

Generally try to stay in the top 20-30% of most limbs with possible exception of center pivot and radically preloaded limbs which would be even less (2-3" from tip).


----------



## Aussiehunter1

thanks for the reply, im in he process of building a very similar bow press just try to decide on a good shape for the fingers, i figured ill cut some out of cardboard then when im happy with shape ill send of to lazer cutters to get profiled out of 10mm plate.
Cheers


----------



## 92safari

Lets see those press projects!!


----------



## Tony7781

Amazing thread!! i know I not have 2 projects to start this weekend, an arrow saw and then this bad boy!


----------



## jljjdye

Nice read safari. Getting ready to convert my sure loc xpress into your design. Not sure where it will take me but we will see. Safari, what would be the best style hangers for 13' elite answer? Also what mammoth draw length you pulling on the bear in your draw board pic? Looks pretty long in pic. Thanks for all the time you put into this in advance. Jeff


----------



## 92safari

Draw is maxed out to I believe 30.5". I got a pretty good wing span but I've found shooting a bit shorter really helps my shot during hunting season once I'm all geared up. As far as filanges go; If you're sticking to the radial design with your sureloc you could use the laser cut U-pins or adapt the hook style used on my Monster Pac-Presses. If you are scrapping it and rebuilding as an inline then the standardard 2 inside singles and 2 outside doubles will do ya. If building the earlier bolt on style then 4 doubles. I press my crossbows as well an like the option of stock up or stock down so I use 4 doubles usually on mine (wall mounted).


jljjdye said:


> Nice read safari. Getting ready to convert my sure loc xpress into your design. Not sure where it will take me but we will see. Safari, what would be the best style hangers for 13' elite answer? Also what mammoth draw length you pulling on the bear in your draw board pic? Looks pretty long in pic. Thanks for all the time you put into this in advance. Jeff


----------



## dogcity302

Could you PM with information about the finger assemblies? Thank you.


----------



## 92safari

Anybody got pics yet?


----------



## 92safari

I know some of you should hasve some pics.... I painted my draw attachments. I'll post some pics, but like to see some others and how they are coming.


----------



## 92safari

*Hangar assemblies*

For those asking about a hardware list for the hangar assemblies I use:
Aside from the Laser cut and CNC'd parts (4 Hangars and 4 sideplate mounts):
Hardware:
4, #48 Hillman springs
8, 1/4x20x1" socket head cap screws
8, 3/8"-1/2" hair pins
2, 4"x1/4"x20 full threaded screws
2, 1/4" washers
2, 1/4"x20 plastic knobs
4, 1/2" x 4 1/4" pins (each has 2, 1/8" holes drilled 3" apart for hairpins)


----------



## matt1911

thanks 92safari for all your help when i built my press. draw board is going to be next


----------



## 92safari

SWEET!!, Looks like you did great 


matt1911 said:


> thanks 92safari for all your help when i built my press. draw board is going to be next


----------



## dks052210

I'm interested in the hanger assy. Can you shoot me a pm?


John 14:6


----------



## K.G.K.

I was going to buy an EZ Press green, but now I am so on board with this project...I just started researching and am so excited to try this. I will research the thread again to try to understand all parts. It seems a little intimidating to me since I haven't done a lot of metal work, i.e. welding. How do you cut the square tubing? I may buy the cheap harbor freight version if that will work okay? Are the hangers for sale? I see people are requesting a PM....me too! Can you give me an idea on budget for this project (not including a welder of course). 

Thanks for this post. Your great!


----------



## 92safari

Sent pm's. I'll do a quick recap on press dimensions in the morning so its not so confusing to go back through the pages.


----------



## juspassinthru

Got a thread here but ill play


----------



## 92safari

*Press drawings*

Here are the general press drawings. Best I could scribble up, but think it will help those that don't want to search through the pages for details. Nothings in stone. For instance the inner tube can be as long as you need or like, legs and feet as long or short as you need or like, etc. I didn't really show the 5/16" drilled holes for the set screw knobs so as not to add too much clutter. I use 2 holes in the tail piece because of its length and keep the holes towards the inside end so the tail piece can be extended past the inner tube if needed. I put the holes for the outer legs 3" up from the bottom of the upright piece. This leaves enough room for up to a 3" knob or lever. The gusset length for the arms is 2 1/2" wich leaves enough room for the 4" sleeves that I use for the optional winch and removeable hangar assembliy. If not using the sleeved method ; it's still a good idea to go with a 2 1/2" gusset if any to avoid interfering with the hangar mounts. I also didn't bother showing the jack screw since all of that is illustrated pretty well on the first couple pages of the thread.


----------



## K.G.K.

92safari said:


> Now we can drill the sliding tail piece for adjusting levers. With this piece as well as the main tube; We want to be sure that the seam is on the top of the part (important later). The tail piece is the 1 1/2" x 10" tube. We will be drilling these holes all the way through both sides of the part; so we'll have 3 holes on each side. Drill a 5/16" hole 1 1/2" in from each end and 1 hole in the center.


I have general question...when you drill both sides, do you drill all the way through from the same side or flip it? It seems like that would be difficulty for them to line up if drilling from both sides, but if you go all the way through from one side, does the bit wonder off a little? Sorry, new to metal working... lots of wood working and a good drill press to use, though. Thank you


----------



## 92safari

I'm assuming that you are building the early version at the stasrt of the thread with the bolt on style hangar assemblies. If so; then you would drill your holes from one side all the way through, but it wouldn't be critical to anything if you didn't; just uniform. On this style press it's done that way so you can flip the tail piece around to press much shorter bows. If you don't plan on pressing shorter bows then holes would only be need on backside of the tail. If using the fender washers for shims ; then we keep the seem on top beause you don't want to try and drill through it, and can't put a shim over it without gring or chiseling it out in most cases. Over the last year or so I've been using "Slick Strips" .030"x1" for shimming all 4 sides of the outer tubes. I've found it much easier, smoother, and it makes a nice snug fit without removing the paint from the inner tube (also allows you to paint the inner tube). Here is an Amazon link for some you can get in small amounts http://www.amazon.com/Slick-Strips-Width-32-Thick/dp/B0035Y46GM/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_z
I use it in large amounts and buy rolls of it.
The drawings above are a more recent traditional style with 90 degree arms using my hangar and mount assemblies and adapted to accept the various add ons I've shown in the past couple pages. Once this style press is built; any style hangars can be used on it. I naturally always use my own assemblies because the are self squaring, simply drop in place, and are the most versatile and adjustable sets you can get. When used in conjuction with the caution bar assembly I've shown; You can press anything you want including the Bear Carnage and Attack without the need for any extra clamps to put on you limb tips as other style hangars require, and no extra drawstop fingers to buy either..
Here some some pics of the earlier "Slimline " style you are referring to. Notice how the tail piece is reversible for short bows which would mean putting knobs on the opposite side when reversed; Explaing the need for holes on both sides with this style press. I believe page 22 shows another builder that went with this style if you want to look although there are many pics posted on earlier pages by many others.


K.G.K. said:


> I have general question...when you drill both sides, do you drill all the way through from the same side or flip it? It seems like that would be difficulty for them to line up if drilling from both sides, but if you go all the way through from one side, does the bit wonder off a little? Sorry, new to metal working... lots of wood working and a good drill press to use, though. Thank you


----------



## 92safari

*Slimline style*

Heres a way back pic of the first modular version we made using the old style hangars.


----------



## WestonBooners

This is awesome! I've been looking into building one of these for a little while now and this thread will definitely help. I'm interested in getting some hangers though could you send me a pm?


----------



## richl35

Bookmarking for later


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Rollie83

Bump to save


----------



## adamst

Here is a few pics of my progress so far just waiting for the rest of my hangers to show up.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 92safari

adamst said:


> Here is a few pics of my progress so far just waiting for the rest of my hangers to show up.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Hey; SWEET!! I got one just like that ;-D 
Nice job..


----------



## adamst

Thanks bill :thumbup:
Hey how far apart are you welding on the hanger mounts? The inside or outside measurement would be helpful. Thanks again.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 92safari

I use 3" inside. Thats more than wide enough to press anything you'll run across. I actually made a couple jigs for spacing with a couple scrap pieces of 1 1/2" tube. I start them about 3/8" from the arm tips so you have room for a nice corner bead on the outsides of the mounts. No bead needed on the insides. Right hand set will be a hair more than 3/8" since the arm sticks out a hair more than the left. The mounts are self squaring as long as you have the set bolted together in a jig or hagars temporarily assembled to set your spacing.


----------



## K.G.K.

When building the modular design, do the star adjustment knobs on the main body, or even the leg assembly for that matter always correspond to a threaded hole?


----------



## 92safari

K.G.K. said:


> When building the modular design, do the star adjustment knobs on the main body, or even the leg assembly for that matter always correspond to a threaded hole?


If I understand you correctly; yes. Where ever you see a knob on mine there is a coresponding nut welded to a sleeve. The backbone of the press is simply the jack tube. Everything else slides onto it and a knob snugs it in position. No need to over tighten anything. Snugged holds just fine. Only reason for 2 knobs on the tail piece is because its a long sleeve. A shorter sleeve would still work fine, but I opted for a longer sleeve with both knobs towards the inside so I can let the tail hang past the end of the inner tube if needed since I cut my inner tubes at 42" for convenience. This way everything easily still fits into one of my bow cases.


----------



## K.G.K.

Okay, but the jack tube does not have holes in it to receive the star adjusters. They just snug against the body of the Jack tube? Thanks again.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 92safari

K.G.K. said:


> Okay, but the jack tube does not have holes in it to receive the star adjusters. They just snug against the body of the Jack tube? Thanks again.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


That is correct. All knobs are basically just set screws. You dont have to use knobs right away. You can just use bolts or bolts bent into levers. You can always add knobs here and there since they can add a fair cost to the project.


----------



## Alaska at heart

I have a buddy who is a machinist that I sent a link to this thread as a tutorial for a future press for me. He checked the shop steel stock and they don't have the square tubing for the inline frame, thus "ordering it is going to be salty" in his exact words. So where did you guys obtain the square tubing for this project that won't start the process off with a big expenditure? I have read through most of the pages and understand the concept, but don't have the equipment or hands-on knowledge to pull it off myself. Thus I am seeking assistance from the get-go to make it more than a pipe dream.............thanks in advance.


----------



## 92safari

PM'd ya


Alaska at heart said:


> I have a buddy who is a machinist that I sent a link to this thread as a tutorial for a future press for me. He checked the shop steel stock and they don't have the square tubing for the inline frame, thus "ordering it is going to be salty" in his exact words. So where did you guys obtain the square tubing for this project that won't start the process off with a big expenditure? I have read through most of the pages and understand the concept, but don't have the equipment or hands-on knowledge to pull it off myself. Thus I am seeking assistance from the get-go to make it more than a pipe dream.............thanks in advance.


----------



## 92safari

*mount spacing*



adamst said:


> Thanks bill :thumbup:
> Hey how far apart are you welding on the hanger mounts? The inside or outside measurement would be helpful. Thanks again.
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Heres how I space my mounts with a jig made from 2 pieces of 1 1/2" of sq. tube drilled to match the mounts. Notice the 1/2" nut on the side just used to guage distance from the edge of the arm.


----------



## K.G.K.

So thrilled. Just went to a local steel supplier. Bought all the steel for the modular version and they cut it all to dimension for me for a total purchase cost of around 25.00. Im excited to get started.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## ClintR

WOW that is fantastic!! Motivates me to get out there and look for a local shop.



K.G.K. said:


> So thrilled. Just went to a local steel supplier. Bought all the steel for the modular version and they cut it all to dimension for me for a total purchase cost of around 25.00. Im excited to get started.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## adamst

K.G.K. said:


> So thrilled. Just went to a local steel supplier. Bought all the steel for the modular version and they cut it all to dimension for me for a total purchase cost of around 25.00. Im excited to get started.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


Wow that is pretty cheap I went I got my steel and paid 27.60$ and I had to cut it.


----------



## 92safari

Mann you guys got a good hookup. I pay quite a bit more for just 1 piece and gotta do all the cutting myself.. 
Good job!! Can't wait to see some progress pic's (hint . A tip ; hang on to all your scraps for jig fixtures and accessory ideas. I hang on to anything 2.5"+


----------



## K.G.K.

How much slick stick do you put into the main body....how long are the strips?


----------



## 92safari

Just a couple inches on all 4 sides is fine. Other end keeps everything centered. I stip whole length of 9" tail piece as well.


----------



## ClintR

I must have missed that post. What is Slick Stick?



K.G.K. said:


> How much slick stick do you put into the main body....how long are the strips?





92safari said:


> Just a couple inches on all 4 sides is fine. Other end keeps everything centered. I stip whole length of 9" tail piece as well.


----------



## Ohio Rob

Hey safari do you make and sell those finger assemblies, if so could you pm me with a price?


----------



## adamst

Hey it even works. Found every bow in the house to try out.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## K.G.K.

ClintRhodes said:


> I must have missed that post. What is Slick Stick?


See post #680. Safari uses a plastic tape material instead of welding washers as spacers within the main body tube for a smother, less friction fit, and that doesn't damage the paint job. He gives a link where to buy it on Amazon. Check it out...


----------



## 92safari

*press*



adamst said:


> Hey it even works. Found every bow in the house to try out.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Hey Great job!! So far the only tricky bows to press that I've found using the standard press arrangement is the Bear Carnage (actually Carnage is no biggy), and Attack, but if you make the caution bar for your press; Even those are a piece of cake to press. Don't need no stinkin adapters ;-D


----------



## ClintR

Thanks so much!

That stuff is pretty slick.  See what I did there? 



K.G.K. said:


> See post #680. Safari uses a plastic tape material instead of welding washers as spacers within the main body tube for a smother, less friction fit, and that doesn't damage the paint job. He gives a link where to buy it on Amazon. Check it out...


----------



## K.G.K.

New to welding. Bought the Harbor Freight Hobbiest welder. I practiced and got a nice bead on a flat piece. However not so much on a corner weld on the 14 gauge stuff. Suggestions ? Be gentle

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## adamst

Slow down your moving to fast. Or turn up the wire speed on the welder.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## dw'struth

adamst said:


> Slow down your moving to fast. Or turn up the wire speed on the welder.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


x2......don't be afraid to turn the wire speed up to around 5 on that HF welder. I have a 220v HF welder and weld the 14ga on the "MIN" #2 setting with wire speed between 5 and 6.


----------



## K.G.K.

That helped a lot... thank you


----------



## 92safari

Looks like tats a leg which isn't a big deal. When you do your arms try to get a good bead and penetration without blowing through and put the gusset on for good measures. Another spot to pay good attention to is when welding the nut inside the inner tube. I like to spot weld through the drilled holes and I leave an eighth to quarter inch hanging out to put an additional bead across the front since the nut carries alot of pressure. Remember to drill the holes offset towards the corners of the inner tube so your spot welds are going to the thickest part of the nut ( don't want to risk blowing through the nut). I believe nuts are lefthand 8 pitch fyi. With steel you can usually just cut, grind and try again so just practice and play with settings on some scrap so you see what happens with different scenarios. Above all don't take any of it too serioussly; have fun with it. ;-D


----------



## K.G.K.

92safari said:


> Looks like tats a leg which isn't a big deal. When you do your arms try to get a good bead and penetration without blowing through and put the gusset on for good measures. Another spot to pay good attention to is when welding the nut inside the inner tube. I like to spot weld through the drilled holes and I leave an eighth to quarter inch hanging out to put an additional bead across the front since the nut carries alot of pressure. Remember to drill the holes offset towards the corners of the inner tube so your spot welds are going to the thickest part of the nut ( don't want to risk blowing through the nut). I believe nuts are lefthand 8 pitch fyi. With steel you can usually just cut, grind and try again so just practice and play with settings on some scrap so you see what happens with different scenarios. Above all don't take any of it too serioussly; have fun with it. ;-D


I got a lot better as I went along. Im sorry, I don't quit understand your suggestion regarding the nut and how to weld it. Also, My left arm that is on the 9" tail piece welded nice, but is not perfectly 45 degrees. Not sure how I got off, but the arm cants inward a little, but hardly noticeable. Do the arms need to be exact or is there enough play with the finger assembly to adjust for imperfections?


----------



## 92safari

All 4 fingers adjust 3/4" either way independantly so should be fine. You'll find that tack welding all 4 corners will hold a position better. If you weld one side then the other; the heat will tend to pull the part out of wack. I think I covered welding the nut on the first 3-4 pages..


----------



## K.G.K.

Got it, Thanks!!


----------



## K.G.K.

Do the corresponding holes in the various assemblies that receive the bolts or or star knobs need to be tapped or is the 5/16" holes only drilled?


----------



## 92safari

K.G.K. said:


> Do the corresponding holes in the various assemblies that receive the bolts or or star knobs need to be tapped or is the 5/16" holes only drilled?


You put a 5/16" nut on a bolt and place it in the hole; then weld the nut to the part and remove the bolt. Now you have a threaded hole for your knobs.


----------



## vhram

Great build !


----------



## K.G.K.

I am just a tad bit confused on how to set up the hardware and fingers on the hangers. I am sure there is a post that depicts it. Anyone have a close up picture on the set up or by chance know the post #?


----------



## adamst

Hopefully these will help u.


Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## K.G.K.

Got it... Thank you!!


----------



## K.G.K.

Whats the best paint for the finish...and what will hide some of my pathetic (but strong) weld joints Hammer paint, Rustolium, primed first?


----------



## adamst

I primed mine then put hunter green rustolem on it. I would imagine the hammered textured paint would hide the imperfections. Also I didn't paint my inner piece of square tube that slides inside the main tube because the paint won't allow a smooth sliding action. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## buckhunter1

Marked!


----------



## K.G.K.

I finished mine and LOVE IT!!!! Thank you Safari!



Sent from my phone using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 92safari

HEY!! That looks GREAT!! NICE JOB and love the red accents. The way I like to use mine for bows is with the right leg on the inside of the right hanger assembly and leave 3-4" extra at the end so you can just slide that set out of the way when going back and forth with the bow in the press. I leave the hangers on the inside when I know I'll be pressing crossbows as well.
Wasn't as complicated as it looks huh? Now if you add the caution bar you can press all the past parallel bows that commonly cause fear with an inline and won't need any expensive clamp gadgets on your limbs.


K.G.K. said:


> I finished mine and LOVE IT!!!! Thank you Safari!
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my phone using Tapatalk 2


----------



## K.G.K.

92safari said:


> HEY!! That looks GREAT!! NICE JOB and love the red accents. The way I like to use mine for bows is with the right leg on the inside of the right hanger assembly and leave 3-4" extra at the end so you can just slide that set out of the way when going back and forth with the bow in the press. I leave the hangers on the inside when I know I'll be pressing crossbows as well.
> Wasn't as complicated as it looks huh? Now if you add the caution bar you can press all the past parallel bows that commonly cause fear with an inline and won't need any expensive clamp gadgets on your limbs.


I will have to review past posts to understand the caution bar assembly. I have become a little addicted to this project so finding a little more to do on it would be fun. 

I will move the right leg to the inside of the arm and leave some gap at the end. That definitely makes more sense. 

It was not as hard as I anticipated...in fact I really enjoyed the build. I would also recommend the HF welder for a project like this rather than pay someone. It worked for me and I got introduced to a new skill...(expert I am not - but its fun). The joints got substantially better with each attempt. A little grinding and sanding made the visible joints pretty nice until the beads got a little more consistent - very do-able.

I have around $150-175 in this project compared to a $400-600 EZ Press...and I'm convinced the finger assemblies are so much better on this! So much versatility and hey, they look really cool, right?!!


----------



## 92safari

Tractor Supply has a pretty decent 125amp 110vt little welder too for $130. I've been thinkin about picking one up just for the portability.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/jobsmartreg;-125-amp-mig-fluxcore-welder


----------



## K.G.K.

I love the versatility of this press. Today was my first opportunity to use it so I changed a cam and string set, with a complete tune on my brother's Mathews Reezin; and then finished with a tune up on a Bowtech Invasion in what seemed like minutes.

I have used a portable Nitehawk press for quite a while (great press. Just takes time to set up), so you can imagine how incredible it is to now change a bow in and out of the press effortlessly and quickley. I wish I did this years ago.

Shout out to Safari for always offering quick help and sharing great ideas. 

If your toying with the idea of making a press, go for it.

Sent from my phone using Tapatalk 2


----------



## K.G.K.

Hey 92Safari, I'm studying the caution bar assembly on post #622 and am little confused. Ill get it figured out...I'm just a little slow. What are the pegs you use to hold the risers and handle? Is the long horizontal piece that holds the pegs only attached to the long vertical piece or does it also attached to original press? Is the tall vertical piece used for drawing the bow only or needed for the horizontal caution bar?


----------



## 92safari

Sorry; I've been meaning to post the details. I'll try to post some pics and better info when I get back from T-ball  the caution bar is welded to an outer tube that slides up and down a short vertical tube that is welded to a sleeve that slides horizontally on the press tube. The short vertical tube serves as an outer tube for the long vertical tube used for the draw attachment. Sounds more complicated than it is without pics.


----------



## K.G.K.

Looking forward to it!


----------



## juspassinthru

92safari said:


> Heres how I space my mounts with a jig made from 2 pieces of 1 1/2" of sq. tube drilled to match the mounts. Notice the 1/2" nut on the side just used to guage distance from the edge of the arm.


my press turned out great but if id known about that id have bought a guage block too. Would have simplified the mounting


----------



## juspassinthru

If I get enough time when I get in from the GOM, Im gonna start part 2 of my press project. My floor stand is designed so press can be removed. Im going to build a receiver hitch mount. Also want to integrate my PSE tuning fixture, a tool tray, and an arrow saw into the floor stand. Kind of an all in one bow work station


----------



## K.G.K.

juspassinthru said:


> my press turned out great but if id known about that id have bought a guage block too. Would have simplified the mounting


I just used a block of hardwood cut at 3" and clamped the two brackets together on the block, and then clamped that assembly on to the arm for a quick weld on the outside of the brackets. It Charred the wood a bid, but no issue. It was walnut so it kind of smelled nice


----------



## K.G.K.

Hey Safari,

I have enjoyed studying your _caution bar _design and I think have the concept figured out. Curious what to use for the bow riser and handle pegs. Thanks,


----------



## 92safari

Sorry havent got to pics yet. Between grandbabies, birthdays and graduations its seems non stop. I use 1 1/4" for caution bar, 1 1/2" sleeves for 1/2" x 7" pegs and pegs all the way over to one side of the sleeves. Remember that caution bar is off centered when welding to your vertical sleeve since you'll never have to slide it very much to the right. Also you were right on how I made the original using the vertical draw tube as backbone for the setup. I used 1 1/4" on the verical on that one, but decided to downsize to 1" so I can have the caution bar as an independant unit.


----------



## K.G.K.

Great....lastly what are the pegs? Thanks again. Life is busy...ha.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 92safari

I use 1/2" pegs (pins) just because i didnt want to buy a bigger bit and 1/2" works fine.


----------



## K.G.K.

Are the pegs wrapped in foam or some kind of rubber? What is the protective wrap on the pegs.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 92safari

1/2" id rubber hose


----------



## K.G.K.

92safari said:


> 1/2" id rubber hose


Nice..thanks!


----------



## ClintR

Hey 92 your inbox is full.


----------



## 92safari

okay...


----------



## dklic6

I'm going to get around to building this thing one day.


----------



## 92safari

Anybody got some more pics?


----------



## Angler62002

Noted


----------



## Ballingerjon

Here's a couple pics of the one I built from some ideas from this thread and some of my own lol and lots of information from other guys here on at


----------



## K.G.K.

Looks like you have some welding experience. I really like green.


----------



## dklic6

I took the easy way out and ordered one. Took about 2 1/2 beers to figure out and put together. By the fourth beer I had new strings on the Hoyt.


----------



## stanlh

dklic6 said:


> I took the easy way out and ordered one. Took about 2 1/2 beers to figure out and put together. By the fourth beer I had new strings on the Hoyt.
> View attachment 1729944


Where did you order it from? (have not read the whole thread)


----------



## Ballingerjon

Kgk I have a lil welding experience lol but a friend of mine helped me weld some of it since I was using his equipment and I was cutting the tubing while he was putting a few welds on


----------



## K.G.K.

Ballingerjon said:


> Kgk I have a lil welding experience lol but a friend of mine helped me weld some of it since I was using his equipment and I was cutting the tubing while he was putting a few welds on


Looks good...having a press is so liberating


----------



## Ballingerjon

It is but I'm still kinda nervous because I am fairly new to archery but I have never had to change my own stings or anything yet but I have seen how it is done and am pretty confident I can do it


----------



## ajoh

dklic6 said:


> I took the easy way out and ordered one. Took about 2 1/2 beers to figure out and put together. By the fourth beer I had new strings on the Hoyt.
> View attachment 1729944


using "beer" as a measure of time :set1_rolf2: ya sound like an aussie "when will the steaks be ready robbo? ....oh in about 2beers"

gave me a good laugh


----------



## Dlong1023

For you guys building the modular version, are you shimming each individual piece or just using the bolt to hold it tight?


----------



## 92safari

Tail piece I shim all 4 sides with .030 slickstrip. For all the 1 3/4" sleeves I put a piece on inside top and inside front. If you wanted to you could also put some inside the legs but really no need.
Bill


Dlong1023 said:


> For you guys building the modular version, are you shimming each individual piece or just using the bolt to hold it tight?


----------



## 92safari

Still waiting to see some of the pics from you guys..


----------



## bingerarcher

Great press info. and pics!!!! Thanks for all your hard work making life easier for others!! Can't wait to build mine.


----------



## 92safari

Gonna stop and take some pics of some of the attachments I've been making this week end. Painted even. I changed the vertical draw board a bit making the vertical a 2 pc adjustable assembly.


----------



## ndm

Tagged


----------



## dumapus

I am not set up to put one together so i ordered one from Bill. Having never used a press before and being a little nervous about tinkering with some expensive bows, I ordered a complete press form Bill who assured me with a little time and patience I would be fine. In two weeks I have changed three sets of strings, tuned a couple of bows and put a peep in for my neighbor and his son. I highly encourage anyone who is contemplating building/buying one but who might be a little nervous about tinkering with their bow to go for it.It's a great design and very solid (I added the hand wheel from McMaster)

Thanks Bill!


----------



## 92safari

Sorry didn't get chance to take pics of full monty set up with attachments yet. I keep boxing them up before remembering pics. I'll try to remember this week.


----------



## GlennR

Bill,

Please do - I'm definitely interested in seeing them. Sent you a PM as well.

Cheers
Glenn.


----------



## 92safari

Nice.., but it works out much better with the double on the outside of the mount so you can just remove the knob to flip over as needed for drawstops.


dumapus said:


> I am not set up to put one together so i ordered one from Bill. Having never used a press before and being a little nervous about tinkering with some expensive bows, I ordered a complete press form Bill who assured me with a little time and patience I would be fine. In two weeks I have changed three sets of strings, tuned a couple of bows and put a peep in for my neighbor and his son. I highly encourage anyone who is contemplating building/buying one but who might be a little nervous about tinkering with their bow to go for it.It's a great design and very solid (I added the hand wheel from McMaster)
> 
> Thanks Bill!
> 
> View attachment 1753034
> 
> View attachment 1753035
> 
> View attachment 1753036


----------



## dumapus

Got it, thanks again.


----------



## 92safari

Looks like I'm going to be taking some work in South Dakota in a month or two for awhile so I'm just going to run my parts supply down until everything is gone FYI.


----------



## arrow1969

Hay bill, where in SD are you going to be?


----------



## naturalsteel

Built My first Bow Press! Thank's to safari92 and Gunner I took certain aspects from their builds and this is the result! Steeler colors are the icing on the cake!


----------



## joecc3

Awesome presses guys. I got inspired and built a "no weld" version using some used aluminum silk screen frames I had laying around. The biggest problem I had was the threaded rod. How to secure it without welding it? Well after scouring Lowes, I open some bracket for framing and cut out a hole for the rod and the wing nut I used on the end of sliding arm. The fingers are still to what I want, but its the best I can do without any machining tools other than my trusty Dremel. Thanks for the inspiration guys.


----------



## joecc3

Front view


----------



## 92safari

Dang.. Turns out I'm heading to North Dakota now for the winter..Brrrr. I'm looking at making final runs of my Pac-Presses and other parts in the 3rd. week of September; so if you want something don't wait until then to make your decision. Orders will need to be placed before then in order to be filled. Already booked into next week !!


----------



## 92safari

Taking final orders next week on all of my Pac-Press threads!! or possibly sooner to be sure everything gets done..
Not sure when I'll be able to add much to the build thread. We'll see.. Still want to see progress pics from everyone though.


----------



## cullin05

I am very interested in trying this. Could some one pm me with where to get some Coathooks,
Thanks


----------



## upstatehunter17

Wow just went through all 26 pages, nice work fellas. This looks like a fun project.


----------



## 92safari

*caution bar*

Making up a few caution bars as well real quick. The vertical draw attachment just slides into the caution bar and can be added anytime. The caution bar with 4 support pins just slides onto any of the presses and supports the bow keeping it from wanting to go anywhere. The only bows I've noticed needing the caution bar to press them is the Bear Carnage and Attack, but nice to have for any bow. With the addition of the caution bar; the press can handle any bow without worries including the Carnage or Attack. No need to clamp any special gizmos to your limb tips. The pic shows caution bar along with the vertical draw attachment.


----------



## ndm

Getting mine finished up. Here's a sneak peek.








Hopefully I have pics of it completed tomorrow.


----------



## Unk Bond

ndm said:


> Getting mine finished up. Here's a sneak peek.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully I have pics of it completed tomorrow.




====================


Looking good [ Later


----------



## 92safari

Looking good so far.. Nice job


----------



## 92safari

You guys must be getting that ol'archerynutt all riled up. Harassment pm's are flowing again, but your presses are all looking great!!


----------



## ClintR

92safari said:


> You guys must be getting that ol'archerynutt all riled up. Harassment pm's are flowing again, but your presses are all looking great!!


Hehe....you know you're doing something right when you're getting threats.  

Sent from my cellular device.


----------



## Unk Bond

92safari said:


> You guys must be getting that ol'archerynutt all riled up. Harassment pm's are flowing again, but your presses are all looking great!!


==============

Hello All

Ive got 2 so far . Maybe my name here. Has sparked some new interest, [ Later


----------



## ndm

Got her finished up. I had so much fun I'm already planning to build another one. The next one I'm going to add bow support rods and draw board attachment.

Thanks for the great info on this thread 92safari. And thanks for the awesome coat hooks. The color was perfect to go with the Iowa Hawkeyes theme.


----------



## 92safari

[Sweeet!!QUOTE=ndm;1068167065]Got her finished up. I had so much fun I'm already planning to build another one. The next one I'm going to add bow support rods and draw board attachment.

Thanks for the great info on this thread 92safari. And thanks for the awesome coat hooks. The color was perfect to go with the Iowa Hawkeyes theme.[/QUOTE]


----------



## XMan01

Are you able to find the parts already manufactured or will you need to machine the parts?? I can handle the drilling aspect for the holes.


----------



## ndm

XMan01 said:


> Are you able to find the parts already manufactured or will you need to machine the parts?? I can handle the drilling aspect for the holes.


What parts do you mean? 92safari has very detailed step by step instructions on this thread.


----------



## 92safari

tic..toc..tic..toc..


----------



## Unk Bond

92safari said:


> tic..toc..tic..toc..


X2 ---:teeth:


----------



## 92safari

"hump DaaaY!!!


----------



## richl35

I am in process of building a modular inline and I found and used light duty telescoping square tubing. It is a square welded tube that has the welded seam running down the corner of the square tube. This puts the weld on the inside of the tube right tight in the corner. This is ideal because the inner tube has clearence because the weld is located where the radius is on the edge of the tube. The fit between the tubing is about .040 and it slides smoothly together. I used some adhesive backed .012 thick UHMW film to act as a gliding surface between the parts and to protect my paint. The combination is very smooth! It comes in 3/4 - 2 1/2"SQ in 1/4" increments and is relatively inexpensive. Also instead of cutting and bending long bolts to make all the locks I purchased some 3/8-16 soft grip knobs from McMaster. At $2.60 each I think they added a nice quality feel to the press. Being over 2.5" in diameter you can crank on them pretty hard as well. Now if my coathangers would get here.......


----------



## 92safari

Pics ??


----------



## 92safari

Also you'll find that there is no need to crank down on your knobs. Just snugged up works fine even on xbows..


----------



## Unk Bond

richl35 said:


> I am in process of building a modular inline and I found and used light duty telescoping square tubing. It is a square welded tube that has the welded seam running down the corner of the square tube. This puts the weld on the inside of the tube right tight in the corner. This is ideal because the inner tube has clearence because the weld is located where the radius is on the edge of the tube. The fit between the tubing is about .040 and it slides smoothly together. I used some adhesive backed .012 thick UHMW film to act as a gliding surface between the parts and to protect my paint. The combination is very smooth! It comes in 3/4 - 2 1/2"SQ in 1/4" increments and is relatively inexpensive. Also instead of cutting and bending long bolts to make all the locks I purchased some 3/8-16 soft grip knobs from McMaster. At $2.60 each I think they added a nice quality feel to the press. Being over 2.5" in diameter you can crank on them pretty hard as well. Now if my coathangers would get here.......



=====================

Hello All

Sounds good . Do share a pic. [ Later


----------



## richl35

92safari said:


> Pics ??


As soon as the coat hangers are mounted and the last coat of paint dries.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## 92safari

*Caution bar attachment*

Well here are some pics and details to get started on the attachments. I figured the caution bar is best place to start and the most usefull add on for most guys. The adjustable caution bar will support the bow while its in the press allowing it to safely press any bow you want including the Bear Attack and Carnage which seem to be among the most difficult to press due to their limbs coming over the top quite a bit more than XForces and the likes. The bar just slides onto the press frame and adjusts right, left, and up or down. It has 4 sliding pins that can all be used under the bow for solid support, or you can set it up with the 2 inside pins in the limb pockets and the other 2 slid over to the outside of the limbs locking the bow in place. The vertical bar also serves as a receiver for the vertical draw attachment that can be added later. I've changed the draw attachment a bit from earlier pics making it a slide adjustable 2 piece vertical bar for convenience and compactness. I'll cover it seperately since it's not required right now.
For the caution bar; I used a typical 1 3/4" x 4-4 1/2" sleeve and an 11" x 1 1/4" piece of tubing for the vertical support bar. I use plastic end caps on my presses so you'll see that I drilled a hole through the bottom of the vertical bar about 7/8" from the bottom. This is going to be used later when I add the vertical draw attachment, and it's just far enough from the bottom to clear my plastic end cap. I made the vertical tube 11" so it is just about a 1/4" from the bench top if using my press legs; so it can freely slide side to side on the press and still have travel room to be raised and lowered.
The 1 3/4" sleeve is typical with a 5/16" hole drilled through the backside (seam side) where we will later weld a nut to hold our adjustment knob. On the front side we draw a vertical line right in the center to use as a guide when lining up our vertical bar.


----------



## 92safari

*next step*

Now we line up our vertical tube to the left side of our center line on the sleeve being sure to keep everything nice and square as well as flat to one another as it will affect how truly vertical things are in the end when we add the draw attachment later. We are attaching the tube to the left of center so we can keep everything as far left as possible since thats where the centers of most all bows are going to be (usually nearest the left leg of the press). Once everything is lined up and looks good; clamp it and check again. The vert tube should be flush with the top of the sleeve.


----------



## Samuraiarcher

I'm so glad you started this thread and that I have a brother who can weld!


----------



## EXsystem

*thanks*

Got to give some props to 92safari thanks for setting me straight with my missing part! I got the press all finished up and wanted to share a pic. Painted flat black with some red. I am just waiting on a crank wheel to finish it off. Can't wait to see how the caution bar will work.

thanks again 92safari


----------



## 92safari

*support tube finished..*

OK; Heres what it should look like all welded up, knob in place, end cap in, and a hitch pin in the empty hole for later. You don't have to use knobs or pins. The levers and a bolt would be fine.


----------



## 92safari

*quick mock-up*

Heres just a quick mock-up of everything so far so you can see how it is situated on the press. Next thing we'll do is assembl the adjustable caution bar itself along with the 4 independantly sliding pins, and this part of the attachments will be whooped. Very simple but very effective, and no messing around having to clamp things to your limb tips to press your bow.


----------



## 92safari

NNIICE!! Looks like you did great, and bet you had fun watching it take shape as you went. Now you don't have to wonder what the guy in the back is doing to your bow 


EXsystem said:


> Got to give some props to 92safari thanks for setting me straight with my missing part! I got the press all finished up and wanted to share a pic. Painted flat black with some red. I am just waiting on a crank wheel to finish it off. Can't wait to see how the caution bar will work.
> 
> thanks again 92safari


----------



## 92safari

Well.... UNK Bond;
Lets see the pics of what you created...


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello All
Your wish is my command. :teeth:

Later Unk


----------



## 92safari

*Caution bar*

OK; Now we are making the caution bar itself. It's a very simple piece with a 42" x 1 1/4" tube for the bar, and a 1 1/2" x 6" pice for the outer sleeve on the vertical bar we just made. We drill another 5/16" hole in the center of the sleeve tube about 1 1/2" from the end which leaves room for our knob or lever. Like all the other sleeves we'll be welding a nut over the hole. (bye the way all of this is made using 14 guage steel so theres nothing special to buy. Everything is made from left over stock from our press project).


----------



## 92safari

Almost caught up.. whoohoo. I'll get the rest of the caution bar pics and details up tonite and tomorrow. I made up a few of the draw/shooter attachments too and I'll get pics of those as well.


----------



## EXsystem

92safari said:


> Almost caught up.. whoohoo. I'll get the rest of the caution bar pics and details up tonite and tomorrow. I made up a few of the draw/shooter attachments too and I'll get pics of those as well.


Patiently waiting...!


----------



## 92safari

I have time for 6 more presses before leaving.


----------



## cullin05

92safari said:


> I have time for 6 more presses before leaving.


I think I want to try building a press!
Here is what I am starting with. 5,000 pound bulldog jack that extends to 51 inches.


----------



## camocrazy1983

i gotta get a welder and learn how to weld:shade: looking forward to seeing the draw / shooter attachments, awesome thread 92.. spending almost as much time here as i do on the classifieds


----------



## 92safari

Post #439 built a no weld press with a jack similar to yours. Check it out..
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1489937&page=15


cullin05 said:


> I think I want to try building a press!
> Here is what I am starting with. 5,000 pound bulldog jack that extends to 51 inches.
> View attachment 1772988


----------



## 92safari

Leaving next week. Gonna stop taking orders for Pac-Presses, etc. on Thursday. Taking some pics of the finished Caution bar assemblies and horizontal draw/shooter parts tonite.


----------



## gdroberson

how much and how much lead time


----------



## 92safari

*Completed caution bar*

I know its out of sequence, but I have a pic of a completed caution bar attachment all compact, complete, attached, and calapsed for transport or storage. Still no loose parts to keep track of and can be put on or off in seconds. Pins are turned sideways for storage or transport and still maintains a 5" profile.
I still have to upload pics with details for the sliding pins and finishing the bar itself. 

One more day...


----------



## richl35

richl35 said:


> As soon as the coat hangers are mounted and the last coat of paint dries.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4


Took a little longer than expected for the paint to dry but here it is finally... 





actually the paint dried just fine but I have been juggling this with a 67 Charger restoration and the bow press sat on the bench for awhile.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## 92safari

Excellent job!! Looks awsome!!


richl35 said:


> Took a little longer than expected for the paint to dry but here it is finally...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> actually the paint dried just fine but I have been juggling this with a 67 Charger restoration and the bow press sat on the bench for awhile.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## 92safari

Last day !!!


----------



## 92safari

*Bar*

Ok; back to the Caution bar. On the 42" bar I measured over from the right 20" and marked a square line. Now to the left of that line I placed the 1 1/2" sleeve tube on the backside of the bar, flush with the top, and square. A couple of beads along the sides to hold everything and a 5/16" nut welded over the knob hole. And thats the adjustable bar itself that will ride up and down the support tube we already made. All thats left are the 4 sliding pins.


----------



## 92safari

*pins*

Now the sliding pins to finish it off. I cut 4 pieces of 1 1/2" sq tube at 3". Then I find center and mark for a 1/2" hole with the center about 5/8" from one end. I weld a 1/2" nut over the holes and use 5-6" bolts for the pins covered with rubber hose. Now these can be slid onto the bar and snugged down by twisting your pins.
Naturally we clean them up, put some slick strip inside, and paint.


----------



## gdroberson

just need some fingers


----------



## 92safari

I'll have plenty of those and mounts, but probably not hardware.


----------



## 92safari

OK; Executive decision; I'm hangin around another week so I won't miss Grand daughters birthday.


----------



## bowbender300

Any more pictures of the completed caution bars? I'm almost to that stage.


----------



## 92safari

I have one here that hasn't shipped yet. What do you want to see?


bowbender300 said:


> Any more pictures of the completed caution bars? I'm almost to that stage.


----------



## bowbender300

The finished press with the caution bars attached. I'm still not 100% with it.


----------



## 92safari

*Bar Assembly pics*

Here some pics of the whole caution bar assembly by itself before sliding it onto the jack tube of the press. You can see how the top of it also will act as the receiver tube for our 1" vertical tube used for the draw attachment, xbow support, string tensioner, or whatever you want. All 4 pins slide along the bar by twist and untwisting the pins themselves to tighten and loosen. The bar slides up and down tightened and loosened by the lower knob.


----------



## bowbender300

That's the way I thought it would go together but I wasn't 100% sure. Thanks again. I had one of your original models but I ungraded to your new and improved model. I'm sure that the original one would have done me just fine but that's the thing about being an archer/bowhunter you have to keep up with the technology.lol


----------



## 92safari

Decided to wait until the 19th to leave so I won't miss my grand daughters 3rd b-day.


----------



## gdroberson

big thanks to 92safari for the fingers A1 job well worth the $


----------



## 92safari

aaaawww... no I gotta see pics of your coat rack


gdroberson said:


> big thanks to 92safari for the fingers A1 job well worth the $


----------



## gdroberson

here it is


----------



## 92safari

Nice!!! Great job...


gdroberson said:


> View attachment 1782062
> View attachment 1782063
> View attachment 1782064
> here it is


----------



## moze229

I just sat aside a savings jar for this press. I just put a quarter in it. Should be full enough by the time you get back from your trip.


----------



## 92safari

trip cancelled...


----------



## 92safari

back at it...


----------



## ClintR

Hope this is a good thing for you.



92safari said:


> trip cancelled...





92safari said:


> back at it...


----------



## DoubleLung22

I Weld for a living , Nice Work Here !!! I think I may Build one when I get Time ..... You all are doing a mighty fine job !!!


----------



## Kaizoku

Got my hangers. Just need to collect the rest of the parts for my coat rack.


----------



## brenth

92, Sorry to hear about the cancelation, but Im glad to hear your still going to build these presses. The one I got from you works great.


----------



## 92safari

Just bad timing. Family matters come first. I can always go north later when family matters are squared away. I'm thinking about skipping the paint from now on to save all the drying time. Maybe oil or clear coat to keep from rusting. That way they can be painted anyway desired.


brenth said:


> 92, Sorry to hear about the cancelation, but Im glad to hear your still going to build these presses. The one I got from you works great.


----------



## 92safari

Presses can be built in a day or two. Takes longer to paint and dip everything with drying time than anything else; especially when doing several at a time.


----------



## 92safari

*Liquidating some parts*

I'm liquidating some of the hard to get parts in the classifieds to run out what I have left that aren't dedicated to presses.. check it out if you are wanting to build your own. When they are gone they are gone. No plans to replentish.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2115941&p=1068480759#post1068480759


----------



## 92safari

Hardware for standard setup:
4- #48 Hillman springs (Ace Hdwr)
8- 1/4 x 20 x 1" cap screws (#91251A542 McMaster Carr)
4- 1/2" x 4" pins
2- adjustment knobs part #59625K35 (McMaster Carr)
2- 4 1/2" x 1/4 x 20 threaded bolts for adjustment knobs
8- 3/8"-1/2" hair pins
2 1/4" washers for adjustment knobs
1-2 cans of Plasti-dip


----------



## 92safari

If you don't want a set with 4 doubles then you can simply cut off one of the inside hangers leaving the outsides as doubles for drawstops.


----------



## 92safari

Ttt


----------



## elkmaster101

yep i own one it can go either 120 or 240 v mines is wired 240v.
It runs great as long as you use the right heat range/ amps for the material your weldinge. 
then pick your self up some good farmer welding rod, 6010 or 6013 i like the 6010 it acheives better penitration.
this small stuff is a peice of cake. 
you can also back down in the size of tubing if you like this is way over kill.
get on the internet and look at the nesting charistics of the different tubing.
if you have a steel wharehousing facility near you or even home dopo.
my 2 cents worth. Im going to make ny own jack with a couple nuts thread rod and a ratchet 
thanks guys for the Idea.


----------



## Tommy petty

Great post. You rock. 



92safari said:


> Here are some pics of all the needed parts and or components to complete a press like our example. I used standard 14 guage structural steel square tubing which is more than adequate, standard hardware found anywhere, and a standard 2000 lb. "A" frame jack which already contains the ACME rod, bearings, and crank for the press, and lets face it; an inline press is a trailer jack. For now; I'm only listing the hardware need for the press frame and will address the coat hangars later. The adjustment knobs are optional and can be replaced with 5/16" bolts bent as levers.
> 
> Steel parts: (all 14 guage)
> 30" x 1 1/2" sq. tube - (1)= main body
> 8" x 1 1/2" sq. tube -(2)= frame legs
> 10" x 1 1/2" sq. tube - (1)= slideing tail piece
> 4 3/4" x 1 1/2" sq. tube (2)= coat hangar mounts
> 8 1/2" x 1 1/4" sq. tube - (2)= leg uprights
> 14" x 1 1/4" sq. tube - (2)= leg feet
> 42" x 1 1/4" sq. tube -(1)= compression arm
> 
> Hardware: (all standard threads)
> 5/16" nuts - (8)= adjustment nuts
> 5/16" x 5" bolts - (4)= levers
> 7/16" washers - (2)= guide holes
> 3/4" washer - (1)= end cap
> 1" x 3/16" fender washers - (2-6)= shims
> 2000 lb. "A" frame trailor jack - (1)= drive mechanism


----------



## 92safari

building 5 with the caution bar attachments..


----------



## stonefly71

Wish I had checked this out earlier.Pm me if you still have supplies


----------



## 92safari

Still have quite a few doubles and mounts..


stonefly71 said:


> Wish I had checked this out earlier.Pm me if you still have supplies


----------



## 92safari

leaving saturday...


----------



## 92safari

Ok, something just doesnt want me to go... getting front axel repaired now..


----------



## Unk Bond

92safari said:


> Ok, something just doesnt want me to go... getting front axel repaired now..



============================

Hello All
What dose that little man, that set on your shoulder say. :wink:

Oh yes, do buy a set of chains. [ Later


----------



## 92safari

ttt


----------



## OhioBoneCrusher

Tagged


----------



## 92safari

Ttt


----------



## K.G.K.

PM sent to 92safari


----------



## 92safari

I cut 4 extra kits with caution bars to take with me, and even did the hardest part by welding in the nut and jack screw.


----------



## 92safari

Plans scrubbed again for another week. Buddies sister passed away; so won't be leaving until next Monday now..


----------



## 92safari

I know alot of you guys have one in the works. Lets see some progress pics...


----------



## windtech007

92 
I loaned my press to hunting buddy and now he wont bring it back so Im starting on my second addition later this week. I can post pic of materials but that's all I have now. 
Ill get some up in a few days.


----------



## Lab Rat

PM sent to 92safari


----------



## IdahoMan

Received my press from 92safari over the weekend. Was as good or better than expected and I'm a meticulous kind of person. I am just so busy right know that I choose to purchase prebuilt and I am not disappointed. The packing was excellent and everything arrived undamaged. I will be putting it together tonight and will see how it goes.


----------



## IdahoMan

Assembled the press and everything was a great fit. I will admit I had to bring up this thread to look at the pictures to make sure I was putting all the pieces where they are intended to go. I am very please with the purchase and quality of the press. I used it on two different bows and it worked great. Took about 40 minutes to unpack and assemble but if I was to do it again could do it in 10 or so. Thank you Bill.


----------



## 92safari

Grest. Hope you have fun with it. You' get setup down to seconds once you play with it a bit. It's butt flakin cold up here... -34 on arrival. Made extra presses and kits before leaving..


----------



## ndbwhunter

92safari said:


> Grest. Hope you have fun with it. You' get setup down to seconds once you play with it a bit. It's butt flakin cold up here... -34 on arrival. Made extra presses and kits before leaving..


Did you make it up to ND? PM me if you did.


----------



## 92safari

Yup.. workin at the Bakken oil fields for awhile..


----------



## ndbwhunter

92safari said:


> Yup.. workin at the Bakken oil fields for awhile..


PM sent


----------



## 92safari

No new pics ?? Im coming back for xmas and will get some pics of the kits while im there.


----------



## bowbender300

Love to see some with the draw board attachment on them.


----------



## 92safari

Half way home for xmas now. I'll try to put up some pics when I get home.


----------



## gard30

ttt


----------



## 92safari

Dang.. made it to the Dells and now a snow storm and only half way home. 30 mph is gonna take awhile..


----------



## Tommy petty

92safari said:


> Dang.. made it to the Dells and now a snow storm and only half way home. 30 mph is gonna take awhile..


You make me realize bad luck is not just a friend of mine. He hangs out with you as well I see. Be safe.


----------



## 92safari

Wheeew.. Made it back finally. What a ride..lol..
Check my Monster Pac-Press listings for details on what I have on hand.. I'll try posting the details for vertical and horizontal attachments while I'm back and before I leave again..


----------



## 92safari

Here for about a week then back to the arctic..lol


----------



## Unk Bond

92safari said:


> Here for about a week then back to the arctic..lol


Hello, glad to see you back.
But you will never be the same. Once you get that oil in your system. [ Smile.


----------



## Garceau

92safari said:


> Dang.. made it to the Dells and now a snow storm and only half way home. 30 mph is gonna take awhile..


Ya should have hollered.....Im right there. I have a spare room for ya!


----------



## camdwilliams

PM sent


----------



## 92safari

Haha.. I needed a distress beacon for that ride.. lol.. Heard its going back to sub-zero in ND again so heading back on Friday.. OH BOY !!


Garceau said:


> Ya should have hollered.....Im right there. I have a spare room for ya!


----------



## JHENS87

Does anyone happen to have a parts list and maybe a pdf file of everything for the press? I'm wanting to build one and need to show it to my helper, and wont have internet there to bring up the thread for reference


----------



## Kinkajou

Originally Posted by 92safari 
Here are some pics of all the needed parts and or components to complete a press like our example. I used standard 14 guage structural steel square tubing which is more than adequate, standard hardware found anywhere, and a standard 2000 lb. "A" frame jack which already contains the ACME rod, bearings, and crank for the press, and lets face it; an inline press is a trailer jack. For now; I'm only listing the hardware need for the press frame and will address the coat hangars later. The adjustment knobs are optional and can be replaced with 5/16" bolts bent as levers.

Steel parts: (all 14 guage)
30" x 1 1/2" sq. tube - (1)= main body
8" x 1 1/2" sq. tube -(2)= frame legs
10" x 1 1/2" sq. tube - (1)= slideing tail piece
4 3/4" x 1 1/2" sq. tube (2)= coat hangar mounts
8 1/2" x 1 1/4" sq. tube - (2)= leg uprights
14" x 1 1/4" sq. tube - (2)= leg feet
42" x 1 1/4" sq. tube -(1)= compression arm

Hardware: (all standard threads)
5/16" nuts - (8)= adjustment nuts
5/16" x 5" bolts - (4)= levers
7/16" washers - (2)= guide holes
3/4" washer - (1)= end cap
1" x 3/16" fender washers - (2-6)= shims
2000 lb. "A" frame trailor jack - (1)= drive mechanism


----------



## 92safari

Be nice if I could organize some of the pertinant info in a few consecutive pages, but all the presses are based on the same jack tube design and the rest of the differences are just 1 3/4" sliding sleeves.


----------



## 92safari

1 left...


----------



## alby

Here a pic of the press I built for our club. Bought the fingers and mounting hardware from 92safari and used his design to build my version. It will extend from 28" on out to 46" in case we need to work on a old bow. The screw itself is out of a vehicle scissor jack so turning the handle clockwise closes the press unlike the trailer jack.


----------



## alby

Another pic.


----------



## Mike W.

What's the purpose of having only one finger on each end rounded off?


----------



## DNL714

Tag


----------



## ClintR

Mike W. said:


> What's the purpose of having only one finger on each end rounded off?


So you don't need to remove string stops.


----------



## alby

Yep for the draw stop(s) on the cams


----------



## ClintR

ClintRhodes said:


> So you don't need to remove string stops.





alby said:


> Yep for the draw stop(s) on the cams


HA! Yes.....I meant DRAW stops.


----------



## 92safari

Hey... Your press turned out Great!!!


alby said:


> Another pic.
> 
> View attachment 1843182


----------



## ClintR

This may have been asked before....

But what are ya'll using for the crank wheel ?


----------



## flogOrfish

92, sent you a pm.


----------



## zahndok

Sent you a PM 92


----------



## Shootn'Freak

sent you a PM


----------



## zmanastronomy

Here's the bones of my press. 
A friend and I put it together.
It was fun and I'm very proud of my effort.

View attachment 1847149
View attachment 1847151
View attachment 1847152


----------



## dogcity302

You must have a heck of a good friend. Hurrahh!


----------



## zmanastronomy

He's my best friend. 
Hurrahh !


----------



## zmanastronomy

Finished it up today. Ready and willing.

View attachment 1847527
View attachment 1847528
View attachment 1847529
View attachment 1847530


----------



## Tommy petty

zmanastronomy said:


> Finished it up today. Ready and willing.
> 
> View attachment 1847527
> View attachment 1847528
> View attachment 1847529
> View attachment 1847530


Real nice work. Nice looking paint job as well. How difficult of a time did you guys have with the jack assembly part? I'm a little apprehensive I'll have it not quite perfectly straight and it not crank right. I've been considering making this for months. Hoping by summer time I'll have considered it long enough. 😁


----------



## zmanastronomy

Just follow the instructions through this thread and it'll work just fine.


----------



## g.sampey

tagged


----------



## zmanastronomy

Pressed both my Supra's for the first time today with my home built press.
I felt safe, and it pressed so easy. I'm a happy camper.
Took all of 20 seconds from start to finish.
I put lines on the ram to show the resting point, then I made marks for where my slider adjusted for my Supra's.
Now, I can pre set my press without the bow in my hand to where all I need is a crank or two to get pressure on the Supra's.
I'll do the same thing for my Invasion tomorrow.
How did I go so long without this thing ?

View attachment 1849018


----------



## 92safari

Nice job


----------



## ClintR

zmanastronomy said:


> Pressed both my Supra's for the first time today with my home built press.
> I felt safe, and it pressed so easy. I'm a happy camper.
> Took all of 20 seconds from start to finish.
> I put lines on the ram to show the resting point, then I made marks for where my slider adjusted for my Supra's.
> Now, I can pre set my press without the bow in my hand to where all I need is a crank or two to get pressure on the Supra's.
> I'll do the same thing for my Invasion tomorrow.
> How did I go so long without this thing ?


I'm curious. Could you add permanent marks on the press based on Axle To Axle measurement? Would that even make sense? 

Just thinking out loud.


----------



## zmanastronomy

I took and pressed the ram all the way closed. In other words, I bottomed out the press in the shortest configuration.
Then I opened it 3", because it only takes about 2" to compress most bows.
Once I had it opened 3", I marked with a pencil to indicate where I want my ram at to start. I leave it there at rest.

Next, I took my bow and adjusted the slider end with the hangers to a point where I could just slip my bow into the hanger to start the press.
I left about a 1/4" gap between the limbs of my Supra and the hangers. I drew another line to indicate where I want to have the adjustable slider on the ram so I can adjust everything for my Supra without having the bow in my hand. 
Now I line up my ram line on the end of the main square tubing that the ram square tubing goes into (3" from fully compressed) and adjust the slider with hangers to the line I made for the Supra, and I'm ready to put the Supra in the press without having to make adjustments with the bow in hand.
I hope this is making sense. 

I've also made a indicator line for my Invasion to do the same thing.

I used a pencil, but you could scribe a line, or make some other permanent markings if you wish.
I just wanted something I could see that if I changed bows in the future, I can always erase the pencil and add new mark for the new bow.

Hope this helps.


----------



## bowabuk

Whats the shortest bow & the longest bow u can press with this setup with the 42" compression arm and the 3)' main body ? thanks


----------



## zmanastronomy

I made my compression arm 48".
I put the arm with the hangers by the crank handle 3" from the end.
I can easily press a 27" to over 40".
I made my compression arm long because I shoot some longer target bows.


----------



## 92safari

Great looking presses )


----------



## goldenarm

This is a great looking bow vise. To save me some time , which page is the parts list ? Thanks for your time .


----------



## smcelheny

Cant wait to get mine started


----------



## zmanastronomy

Here is my finished press. I'm going to share where I got the hand wheel and how I mounted it.
There seems to be a lot of interest in the chrome hand wheel that I see on several presses on this post.
Here is a link to the 8" hand wheel I used on my press http://www.grizzly.com/products/H3190
Here's a link to the handle that I used on the wheel http://www.grizzly.com/products/H3205
The picture of the hand wheel doesn't show a threaded hole for the handle, but it has one.

I used a Reese 2000 lbs. A frame trailer jack with 14" travel. Bought it from Lowes.
The ACME thread is a metric size that I found a 31/64" drill bit fit very nicely.
That's what I drilled the center out with. Please use a drill press for this, if you don't it can drill crooked and you will have some wobble if it does.

After drilling the center for the acme rod, I marked and center punched the hub on the back side of the wheel.
I used a #7 drill bit to drill the hole for the set screw. I then tapped the hole with a 1/4" 20 tap.
I used a 1"x 1/4" x 20 cap screw (Allen head screw) to use for a set screw.

Once everything was drilled and tapped, I slid the ram as far into the main press tubing as I could, that way it takes the slop out of the ram.
I put the hand wheel on the acme screw and pushed it up against the thrust bearing ( But not to tight) and locked down my set screw.
Now, it only takes about an 1/8 of a turn to press or push the ram. No more slop in the acme screw and ram assembly.

Hope all this makes sense. Here's some pics for you.
View attachment 1854838
View attachment 1854839
View attachment 1854841


----------



## flogOrfish

Ok, here's my work. The red/black was version 1. It works but I built it too short. The max ata I can let down is 32". My biggest complaint was the fingers. They work fine, but were a pain to line up on the bow limbs, especially with one hand. The internal mechanism is a 10x32 3/4" ACME and it seemed hard to turn to me. I found 92's post and really liked the design of his hangars. So I began version 2. I bought nestable (telescoping) tubing from McMaster Carr this time around and went with jack teardown method. The jack screw has finer thread but the nestable tubing is a nice fit and it seems effortless to press a bow now. And the hangar threaded adjustment is saweet! Thanks 92 for a great thread. 

My original in red/black and version 2 in progress behind it. 


Side view of version 1

Version 2 in Ford Blue (I'm a Chevy Man but I like the blue 


Side View 


Business End -  Look at the BowFlex in the background. It's more useful as a Bow Hangar.....


Old Martin Tomcat (Gander Mountain Special Build) getting ready for upgrade and tuning to pass on to next generation - nephew


Thanks to all who have posted and shared. The only thing I did that I haven't seen, which is pretty minor two things. I drilled a hole in the inner leg so I can turn it side ways for wall storage, and instead of pins to hold the legs, I welded a nut on and used a long 5/16" to screw against the inner leg for stability of the press when in use.


----------



## 92safari

Sweet lookin presses. I've seen alot of nice presses and ideas from everyone willing to contribute info and pics. Super jobs from all and thanks for being willing to share your projects and progress pics for others to see and gain from.
Flogorfish; slimline presses all have the adjustable, reversible legs secured by lever or knob. One more tip is if you had 3 holes and nuts on your tail pc (still only 2 knobs); you could gain 3 or 4 inches in how long of an ata bow you could press with the standard inner tube length of 42" shown in the thread. Great work everyone. Love seeing other projects


----------



## Wisconsinnate

First off, I can't thank everyone enough for this thread, it really gets the ideas flowing. I thought I would throw in my press so far. I am far from done, but I think it will turn out great once I finish. Huge thanks to 92safari, I couldn't have done it without you. Just have to finish a few things off, then wait for the fingers, and finish it up. Here's a pic of the press so far. I will post again when I get it all done.


----------



## Glenn58

Well my "Finger Kit" showed up last week and now I'm going to order my stock.
I knew that I really didn't want to cut everything with my handheld bandsaw so... Merry Christmas to me...again!

I picked up a nice little floor model. Will be nice to get perfect cuts every time!!!

Once I finish laying down the wood floor in the master bedroom I'll start the "Press Project".


----------



## K.G.K.

Finished another one ...friends and family have taken over my other completed presses. This one is staying with me. Thx 92safari!


----------



## zmanastronomy

K.G.K. said:


> View attachment 1859122
> View attachment 1859123
> 
> Finished another one ...friends and family have taken over my other completed presses. This one is staying with me. Thx 92safari!


If I were you I'd paint it red. 
Nice press.


----------



## K.G.K.

zmanastronomy said:


> If I were you I'd paint it red.
> Nice press.


Thx...I live close to Grizzly. Im going to try the wheel handle as you have outlined. Ill keep you posted.


----------



## zmanastronomy

K.G.K. said:


> Thx...I live close to Grizzly. Im going to try the wheel handle as you have outlined. Ill keep you posted.


It really helped out with the smoothness of the press.
The crank wheel is pretty heavy and carries momentum.
It not only looks better, it functions better.


----------



## K.G.K.

zmanastronomy said:


> It really helped out with the smoothness of the press.
> The crank wheel is pretty heavy and carries momentum.
> It not only looks better, it functions better.


Have to ask about your AT Name, what is your interest in the Astronomy part?


----------



## zmanastronomy

K.G.K. said:


> Have to ask about your AT Name, what is your interest in the Astronomy part?


I do astrophotography as another hobby. Nebula's, star clusters and anything that can and can't be seen through a telescope.
Very challenging to say the least. Here is one of my 3 hour long guided images of the veil Nebula. Hope you enjoy it.

View attachment 1859963


----------



## K.G.K.

My brother is big into that hobby. His pictures have been recognized through various sites, i.e. NASA picture of the day, etc. Ill send your picture to him... he will be impressed. Nice job!! Thanks for sharing!

Here is one that he took of the same nebula, but in black and white. He uses a CCD camera. He does both black and white and color of just about anything that can be photographed...ha. Here are a couple of his sites about him with his pictures and equipment. 

http://www.astrobin.com/users/kolstadm/

http://www.buytelescopes.com/gallery/photographer/40790


----------



## zmanastronomy

K.G.K. said:


> My brother is big into that hobby. His pictures have been recognized through various sites, i.e. NASA picture of the day, etc. Ill send your picture to him... he will be impressed. Nice job!! Thanks for sharing!
> 
> Here is one that he took of the same nebula, but in black and white. He uses a CCD camera. He does both black and white and color of just about anything that can be photographed...ha. Here are a couple of his sites about him with his pictures and equipment.
> 
> http://www.astrobin.com/users/kolstadm/
> 
> http://www.buytelescopes.com/gallery/photographer/40790
> 
> View attachment 1860091


That's is beautiful. I've lost some of the quality in my pic. for compression to show here, but I like the black and white images.
Let's not hijack the thread and keep it about press building.
Thanks for sharing.


----------



## K.G.K.

Yes...I should have PM'd you regarding that. I will post picks of the press once I install the wheel crank from Grizzly. Excited to try that!


----------



## K.G.K.

Love the wheel / handle upgrade to the press. The travel is noticeably smoother and responsive, thus taking out some of the minor slop in the travel. Sure not a necessary change, but a fun one. $20.00 from Grizzly and about 15 minutes labor time. Thanks zmanastronomy for the inspiration, and again thanks to 92safari for a great design.


----------



## zmanastronomy

K.G.K. said:


> Love the wheel / handle upgrade to the press. The travel is noticeably smoother and responsive, thus taking out some of the minor slop in the travel. Sure not a necessary change, but a fun one. $20.00 from Grizzly and about 15 minutes labor time. Thanks zmanastronomy for the inspiration, and again thanks to 92safari for a great design.
> 
> View attachment 1862092


Nice !


----------



## Wisconsinnate

92safari said:


> Sweet lookin presses. I've seen alot of nice presses and ideas from everyone willing to contribute info and pics. Super jobs from all and thanks for being willing to share your projects and progress pics for others to see and gain from.
> Flogorfish; slimline presses all have the adjustable, reversible legs secured by lever or knob. One more tip is if you had 3 holes and nuts on your tail pc (still only 2 knobs); you could gain 3 or 4 inches in how long of an ata bow you could press with the standard inner tube length of 42" shown in the thread. Great work everyone. Love seeing other projects


Anybody talk to 92safari lately? I am waiting on my fingers that were supposed to ship last week. I've sent three PMs without replies in the past few days. Just making sure things are okay. I saw that he was online today.


----------



## 92safari

Im in the middle of nowhere 12 hrs a day. Gotta be near a town to get a signal. Back home has been snowed in for a week with travel restrictions. Ill be back in signal range tonite..


----------



## windtech007

Sucks not to be born rich.


----------



## windtech007

windtech007 said:


> Sucks not to be born rich.


 ha ha


----------



## zmanastronomy

windtech007 said:


> ha ha


This is the first time I've seen anyone laugh at there own post. LOL
That cracked me up pretty good.


----------



## BROWN STAR

Building it off the thread along with the X style press


----------



## harleynut

here is where im at with mine so far, bottom left leg slides out to help ballance the press when pressing longer ata bows. presses 22"-50". wanted to make sure it would press the smallest youth bow i could find which was 24" ata and stll press my old 46" ata pse. will be adding a bow vice and removable draw board to it later on


here are the plans i drew up a few months ago. obviously i changed some measurements and redesigned the legs but should be helpfull to others as a start


----------



## windtech007

zmanastronomy said:


> This is the first time I've seen anyone laugh at there own post. LOL
> That cracked me up pretty good.


well it was funny
picture 92 middle of no where 12hrs a day in the dead of winter trying to find cell signal
sucks not to be born rich (ask me how I know)


----------



## zmanastronomy

harleynut said:


> here is where im at with mine so far, bottom left leg slides out to help ballance the press when pressing longer ata bows. presses 22"-50". wanted to make sure it would press the smallest youth bow i could find which was 24" ata and stll press my old 46" ata pse. will be adding a bow vice and removable draw board to it later on
> 
> 
> here are the plans i drew up a few months ago. obviously i changed some measurements and redesigned the legs but should be helpfull to others as a start


What length acme screw are you using ? I ask because you didn't make the hanger assembly on the ram adjustable. 
If you plan on a complete tare down of a 44" bow, I'm afraid you'll run out of screw. 
Looks good so far.


----------



## 92safari

Nice work.. as long as you have atleast 10 spare inches of travel; you'll have enough room to do a tear down..


----------



## harleynut

zmanastronomy said:


> What length acme screw are you using ? I ask because you didn't make the hanger assembly on the ram adjustable.
> If you plan on a complete tare down of a 44" bow, I'm afraid you'll run out of screw.
> Looks good so far.


i used a 36" acme rod. i have a max distance of 52" with 1" of tube still sticking inside. should be plenty however i dont plan on tearing that old bow completely down as its supper old and it never gets shot


----------



## emmagator

92safari did you receive my pms? Haven't heard from you about my press fingers. thanks


----------



## Wisconsinnate

emmagator said:


> 92safari did you receive my pms? Haven't heard from you about my press fingers. thanks


Same here.


----------



## zmanastronomy

harleynut said:


> i used a 36" acme rod. i have a max distance of 52" with 1" of tube still sticking inside. should be plenty however i dont plan on tearing that old bow completely down as its supper old and it never gets shot


You'll have plenty.


----------



## windtech007

View attachment 1869260

I had 2" and 1 3/4" tubing when I started this press. So the main tube out of 2" and now I'm not able to find any 2 1/4" for the sliders
I fabbed up this slider out of 1/8" x 5" flat. 

opinions good or bad?


----------



## harleynut

well finally finished my press today. thanks again to 92safari for the coat hangers. ill be adding a skateboard wheel to the end of my crank hande to finish that and ill be building a bow vice similar to the apple vice to bolt on at a later time. enjoy


----------



## Wisconsinnate

92safari said:


> Nice work.. as long as you have atleast 10 spare inches of travel; you'll have enough room to do a tear down..


Great presses guys!
92, have you checked your PMs at all recently? I am still waiting on my fingers and I sent you a few PMs.


----------



## 92safari

Oooo!! I like the extendable footprint.. nice touch.
As for filanges; I don't know whatcha talkin bout Willace, but I'll check my pm's. I have limited access to a signal here. Comes and goes in spurts..


----------



## windtech007

windtech007 said:


> View attachment 1869260
> 
> I had 2" and 1 3/4" tubing when I started this press. So the main tube out of 2" and now I'm not able to find any 2 1/4" for the sliders
> I fabbed up this slider out of 1/8" x 5" flat.
> 
> opinions good or bad?


here is the pic


----------



## BowBaker1640

windtech007 said:


> here is the pic


what is the purpose of this piece?


----------



## BowBaker1640

harleynut said:


> i used a 36" acme rod. i have a max distance of 52" with 1" of tube still sticking inside. should be plenty however i dont plan on tearing that old bow completely down as its supper old and it never gets shot


did you use a standard acme threaded nut with it? can you post pictures? thanks


----------



## Wisconsinnate

92safari said:


> Oooo!! I like the extendable footprint.. nice touch.
> As for filanges; I don't know whatcha talkin bout Willace, but I'll check my pm's. I have limited access to a signal here. Comes and goes in spurts..


I've sent four PMs.
I'm wondering when my fingers will ship.
I already payed you for them 2 weeks ago and you said they will ship a few days after that.
When will you be back where there is good signal?
Just wondering what's up.


----------



## harleynut

BowBaker1640 said:


> did you use a standard acme threaded nut with it? can you post pictures? thanks


sorry i didnt take any pics of that part but i just used 3ft of 3/4" #6 acme rod and a 3/4" #6 acme nut welded on the end of the iner tube. used a 3/4" locking collar on the inside with a thrust neddle bearing and sandwhiched that between the end plate and another set of thrust neddle bearing and another locking collar got everything from mcmaster carr


----------



## harleynut

here is my parts list from mcmaster carr
i ended up using a regular locking collar for inside the tube from my local hardware store(same one i used to weld my handle too in the pic) because the clamp down collars i ordered would not fit inside the big tube(the lock down bolt sticks out too far.) i also used 1 3/4x .120 wall square tube for the outside and 1 1/2x .120 wall square tube for the inside

5909K33	2 Each	Cage Assembly For 3/4" Shaft Diameter, 1-1/4" Od, Steel Thrust Needle-roller Bearing
5909K59	4 Each	.126" Thick Washer For 3/4" Shaft Diameter, Steel Thrust Needle-roller Bearing
6435K16	2 Each	One-piece Clamp-on Shaft Collar, For 3/4" Diameter, Black-oxide Steel
98935A838	1 Each	Plain Steel General Purpose Acme Threaded Rod, Right Hand, 3/4"-6 Acme Size, 3' Length
94815A109	1 Each	Plain Steel Acme 2g Hex Nut, Right-hand, 3/4"-6 Acme Size


----------



## windtech007

BowBaker1640 said:


> what is the purpose of this piece?


slider that the press fingers mount to. There will be two more that the legs mount to.


----------



## harleynut

windtech007 said:


> slider that the press fingers mount to. There will be two more that the legs mount to.


that just looks shaddy to me and over time i think it will bend out and get sloppy. i would go to a local steel shop and see what square tube they have that will fit. try diferent wall thickness of tube. if not just weld it to the tube like i did. i highly doubt most people on here need a press that can press the smaller ata crosbows and anything over 48" ata. the smallest youth bow i could find was 24" ata and the longest compound bow that most people would even think of shootin is around 48" ata. just set up your press within a reasonable range of bows that YOU would shoot and just weld the fingers to it.


----------



## windtech007

harleynut said:


> that just looks shaddy to me and over time i think it will bend out and get sloppy. i would go to a local steel shop and see what square tube they have that will fit. try diferent wall thickness of tube. if not just weld it to the tube like i did. i highly doubt most people on here need a press that can press the smaller ata crosbows and anything over 48" ata. the smallest youth bow i could find was 24" ata and the longest compound bow that most people would even think of shootin is around 48" ata. just set up your press within a reasonable range of bows that YOU would shoot and just weld the fingers to it.


I'm no engineer but I think this style slider will create more clamping force than the other slider. It will have more metal in contact with main tube verses other style. I want it to be adjustable because I know me and I trade for different bows frequently. Like i said haven't been able to source any 2 1/4" light wall tubing. Shady ??? maybe wait till its finished and see what it looks like.


----------



## harleynut

as long as you think it will work for you and you feel comfortable with it then give it a try. you asked for oppinions good or bad and i so i gave you mine. worst case if it doesnt work out you can always cut them off and weld the fingers tube to the main tube.


----------



## windtech007

I appreciate you input harley . Last press I built finger mounts were welded and it worked dang good. Ill grab better pics tonight.


----------



## BowBaker1640

as long as you can tighten them good you should be fine we use friction type clamps all the time with staging


----------



## thwacker

Patience.......ever hear of it?


----------



## Wisconsinnate

Just got the fingers today and they look great. Should get the press finished up in the next few days. 
Sorry for complaining guys, I just wondered whether or not they got shipped yet.


----------



## harleynut

finished my handle today. it works great, verry smooth


----------



## windtech007

Thats pretty cool!
So I take it there is aa kid in the neighborhood rolling on three wheels


----------



## harleynut

windtech007 said:


> Thats pretty cool!
> So I take it there is aa kid in the neighborhood rolling on three wheels


maybee...........lol


----------



## emmagator

Can someone explain the need for the springs between the fingers?


----------



## harleynut

they keep tension on them when adjusting the width with adjustment screw


----------



## 92safari

Sorry I haven't been contributing lately. Hard to get online out here and days are long. Havent been getting pms lately either. Keeps saying box is full even after clearing.


----------



## emmagator

What is the distance measurement between the hangar brackets on the 90* arms?


----------



## 92safari

I set them at 3".


----------



## limbhanger00

Do you have any finger assemblies to sale??


----------



## 92safari

This is a build thread not a sales thread. Sharing ideas and concepts..


----------



## 92safari

Heading home tomorrow for 2-3weeks


----------



## Shootn'Freak

hey guys, 
Hopefully going to get my tubing this weekend and build this press, got everything else all painted dipped and holes polished for the .498" 303stainless steel bars i got for pins since i couldn't buy any long enough. 
when i get this done i have questions of how to press certain bows. I have a Bowtech Assassin, there are button-head allen screws on the limb tips, do i need to avoid touching/pushing on these? 
second bow is my dads Destroyer, which has the axles outside of the limbs. can i press on the aluminum bearing carriers/housing units?
thanks for any help, might also put this up on general discussion.


----------



## stevem174

After seeing the great presses on this thread, I think I need to build one!


----------



## puckwert23

Pm'd about coat hangers, getting ready to start build, would like to no more about them.


----------



## Shootn'Freak

hey 92safari, 
ever have any issues with the screws on limb tips?
also whats the main purpose of the caution bar?


----------



## 92safari

Caution bar is adjustable in both span and height . I captures the bow; securing it in the press. Can be raised or lowered controlling the point of contact on limb tips so no special clamps needed for even a carnage or attack. Can also be used to cradle the bow while tying peeps, etc. If you mean cap screws ala brackets such as some Mathews; they are hard on the rubber coating; so I usually just put point of contact just below them.
Bill


----------



## puckwert23

Money sent for hangers. Thanks


----------



## Shootn'Freak

Sounds like I'll be making the cation bar too!
I think they're the same screws, no damage will come to the limbs from pressing on them? The plasti-dip would just take a beating.


----------



## Shootn'Freak

Sounds like I'll be making the cation bar too!
I think they're the same screws, no damage will come to the limbs from pressing on them? The plasti-dip would just take a bearing.


----------



## 92safari

Shootn'Freak said:


> Sounds like I'll be making the cation bar too!
> I think they're the same screws, no damage will come to the limbs from pressing on them? The plasti-dip would just take a bearing.


No won't hurt anything. I believe those screws are just keepers for the axels.


----------



## Shootn'Freak

Okay thanks 92safari. 
This was everything prior to welding today and yesterday, will put some more up after paint is on her.


----------



## puckwert23

Started welding on mine yesterday as well, will post pics soon. Just waiting on hangers from 92


----------



## BowBaker1640

Shootn'Freak said:


> Okay thanks 92safari.
> This was everything prior to welding today and yesterday, will put some more up after paint is on her.


can't wait to see this one!


----------



## Glenn58

That's a mighty fine looking pile of parts!!!!!
You're ahead of me...I have the finger kit...now I just need to get the rest of the metal together.
I have a BowMaster cable press so I've been a little slow in getting my butt in gear to get this going.
I like your wheel...where did you get it???


----------



## Shootn'Freak

thanks! I got the wheel from Grizzly.com. around 20 bucks plus 5 for the handle. i believe the wheel comes with a 5/16 drilled center hole and the hole for the handles is already tapped. My acme screw is from a motor home scissor jack i cannibalized, and used a lathe where i work summers to drill and bore it out to 14mm. If using a different jack i would think the acme rod would be a smaller diameter. Earlier in the thread i read it makes the press very smooth so i figured why not?!


----------



## Glenn58

Shootn'Freak said:


> thanks! I got the wheel from Grizzly.com. around 20 bucks plus 5 for the handle. i believe the wheel comes with a 5/16 drilled center hole and the hole for the handles is already tapped. My acme screw is from a motor home scissor jack i cannibalized, and used a lathe where i work summers to drill and bore it out to 14mm. If using a different jack i would think the acme rod would be a smaller diameter. Earlier in the thread i read it makes the press very smooth so i figured why not?!


Grizzly...I figured as much. I have a number of their commercial power tools. Really nice stuff for the money. 
Can't wait to see your finished product. What are you using for a welder...MIG?


----------



## Shootn'Freak

And the cast iron handle cut soooo nice. I tapped it for a set screw. 
Me to! It's a Lincoln flux core unit. I think my dad just bought it from menards. I've only used it a few times but it does some decent welds though


----------



## BowBaker1640

Shootn'Freak said:


> And the cast iron handle cut soooo nice. I tapped it for a set screw.
> Me to! It's a Lincoln flux core unit. I think my dad just bought it from menards. I've only used it a few times but it does some decent welds though


there is a spray you can buy at welding shops that eliminates all that spatter. I forget the name of it though


----------



## Shootn'Freak

That would be nice, I'll have to look into that. I tried hairspray, the old hand pump bottle got it all over and then I had a hard time welding, but it did work before it evaporated. 
Oh well, a grinder and a sanding wheel should clean it up well for painting.


----------



## camohunter24736

Looking forward to getting some hangers to start my press.


----------



## Glenn58

Shootn'Freak said:


> That would be nice, I'll have to look into that. I tried hairspray, the old hand pump bottle got it all over and then I had a hard time welding, but it did work before it evaporated.
> Oh well, a grinder and a sanding wheel should clean it up well for painting.


It's a "Flux Spray" that you can pick up at any welding supply store. It definitely helps. For mine I'll use gas to make it a little easier.
Your welds look good...nice heat penetration. With the gussets that thing should be solid as a rock!!!


----------



## ghcm

Sent you a pm 92 with some questions.


----------



## 92safari

Well... just layed my father to rest.. sorry for delay in responses.. I believe I have all pj's responded to. Projects are looking good. I noticed lockouts on the adjuster knows in the parts pics; you don't need to use them if you just put a drop of lot - time in the know threads. This gives you another 1/2" of use able screw travel.


----------



## ClintR

So sorry for your loss 92. Prayers for you and the family.


----------



## MNJB

Also sorry for your loss, prayers for you and your family.


----------



## BowBaker1640

sorry for your loss 92. please extend my condolences to the rest of your family


----------



## puckwert23

Sorry for your loss 92. Didn't receive a response on hangers from you though.


----------



## Shootn'Freak

Words can't begin to express, sorry for your loss.

On another note, got all the parts cleaned, inside and out so I could spray some primer inside the tubing too, and tested it out on my bow.







the caution bar was in the way of my sight so I had to rework the attachment and weld the bar under the slider instead of on the side.









Bow fit great so I primed and painted it tonight!








Hopefully tomorrow after school I can take my wind chimes down  
Thanks 92, I didn't wana mess with locktite....bad experience haha. 

How do the rest of you paint these things?


----------



## Texanjohn

Sorry for your loss 92, I thankfully have not had to face that hurdle yet, but it can't be an easy event, please take comfort that your giving of your time and skills to help so many others would make any father proud. Prayers sent for you and yours.


----------



## forester73

Sorry for your loss, my deepest sympathy to you and your family.


----------



## 92safari

Thank you all very much..


----------



## puckwert23

Has anyone received hangers lately. Been waiting some time for mine.


----------



## .BuckHunt.

Got my nestable tubing and fly wheel. Waiting in some new mounting brackets from 92, and have my set of hangers from before. Gonna be building my new and improved press here soon!


----------



## ghcm

Almost finished. Just need to add the hangers once they arrive and a little paint.


----------



## goldenarm

I do have a question for for all that have built one of these bow presses. First all what an excellent job of building them , so many ways to go about building one. My question is , on the tube that slides in the main tube , why don't you weld the finger assembly on the end of it instead of making it an adjustable ? Also what is the advantage of it being sleeved? I'm getting ready to start on mine and just had a few ?'s, thanks for your time


----------



## harleynut

goldenarm said:


> I do have a question for for all that have built one of these bow presses. First all what an excellent job of building them , so many ways to go about building one. My question is , on the tube that slides in the main tube , why don't you weld the finger assembly on the end of it instead of making it an adjustable ? Also what is the advantage of it being sleeved? I'm getting ready to start on mine and just had a few ?'s, thanks for your time


some people want the supper adjustability to be able to fit a huge range of bows that they potentially could be working with. and it makes it easier to tear down for transportation if you wanted to take it anywhere or store it. I welded mine to fit a range of bows that I could see myself shooting and didnt see the need for me to have all the adjustability


----------



## Shootn'Freak

I was one who wanted to be able to adjust everything, built the main body and everything slides on so down the road it could have new attachments for a hooter shooter or something. Works better when a shorter screw is used, for me 17" travel but I can press anything from 6" to 45" ATA.


----------



## puckwert23

Got mine just about ready. Just waiting on hangers.


----------



## .BuckHunt.

puckwert23 said:


> Got mine just about ready. Just waiting on hangers.
> View attachment 1898061


Looks good! What lengths did you use for your main body and slider pieces?


----------



## camohunter24736

92, your box is full. Trying to get you my address. 

-Ross


----------



## 92safari

Crazy how quick it fills up... My body tubes are 33" and tail sliders are 9". I put my gussets on inside of 90's to have max extension length.


camohunter24736 said:


> 92, your box is full. Trying to get you my address.
> 
> -Ross


----------



## puckwert23

Thanks, made my main tube 33" and my extension tube is 36" + the 1 1/2" tube for my hangers. Try to decide on color and waiting on hangers from 92 and she will be done.


----------



## 92safari

Aah.. extention tube on mine are 42". You can make them as long or short as you might need.
I finally ordered more hardware.


----------



## lsmerrill

Just curious. Are the hand screws on the sliders the only thing that keeps them attached to main tube and extension tube? I'm guessing the screw is just tightened into the main tube and extension tube. I'm really thinking about trying to make one of these presses.


----------



## Shootn'Freak

Yes the screws are all. I tried to have them tighten into slick strip to protect my paint but it slipped, tore up the strip, and did not hold. Kinda sad about that. Otherwise she turned out great


----------



## puckwert23

Mine is a standard inline. I welded both 1 1/2 tubes, i also have 15" of travel on the extension tube. So i should be able to press anything from 24" to 40" i think.


----------



## 92safari

I just put an inch or so of slicks trip inside on screw side if any at all. Really 3 sides is enough. 1 screw know is enough to hold tight on bows too but I use two on tails ide anyway. Only marks the paint on the backside.


----------



## lsmerrill

Sent you a PM 92Safari


----------



## lsmerrill

Well I purchased a used welder tonight. I guess ill have to get started on building my press now. Im sure I will have many questions along the way.


----------



## puckwert23

Good luck with your project Ismerrill, take it slow i have been waiting 3 weeks for hangers from 92 to finish mine.


----------



## Jersey Ray

Bump....


----------



## BigShow

Thank you JR.


----------



## Seanr900

I am wondering how exact the hangers / fingers need to be in relation each other? Within 1/16"? 1/32". 1/128"? I have materials and that is the only part I am afraid to make myself.


----------



## 92safari

Seanr900 said:


> I am wondering how exact the hangers / fingers need to be in relation each other? Within 1/16"? 1/32". 1/128"? I have materials and that is the only part I am afraid to make myself.


Adjustability is really a must; even if only a little. The main thing is that the faces remain in parallel with each other so theres no slipping or twisting when under pressure. They can be as simple or as complicated as you like. By building this way with sub-assemblies; you can always just make up different experimental pieces; try'em out and then just take them back off if it wasn't as good of an idea as you thought. The laser cutting and CNC machining really eliminates the little headache variables so you can focus on having fun tacking part "A" to part "B" )


----------



## 92safari

I make my radial press assemblies based on the same adjustment platform, and just change the profile to suit my needs on a radial "X" style press.


----------



## chsnelk03

Where can I get the 4 x 1/2 inch roll pins?


----------



## 92safari

PM'd


chsnelk03 said:


> Where can I get the 4 x 1/2 inch roll pins?


----------



## Shootn'Freak

How does the other style of hangars work?


----------



## 92safari

Those work with a swing arm type press such as an Xpress or one of my Monster Pac-Presses. They adjust the same and are invertable. I also have "U" pins from .5" plate for spanning cams in a non-adjustable fashion.


Shootn'Freak said:


> How does the other style of hangars work?


----------



## K2man

Ok, I'm in this too! Just getting some hangars n pieces n parts heading my way, I'll dust off the Miller Advanced Squarewave TIG (it is sweet welding with NO sparks and NO smoke). All the pictures of the great looking completed presses inspired me to jump in here. Some great ideas for mods too - just gotta decide which ones I want to do...


----------



## 92safari

Welcome aboard.. Looking fwd. to seeing what you come up with.. Remember to post progress pics along the way and above all "have fun with it" 


K2man said:


> Ok, I'm in this too! Just getting some hangars n pieces n parts heading my way, I'll dust off the Miller Advanced Squarewave TIG (it is sweet welding with NO sparks and NO smoke). All the pictures of the great looking completed presses inspired me to jump in here. Some great ideas for mods too - just gotta decide which ones I want to do...


----------



## puckwert23

So where is everyone finding the 4"x 1/2" pins?


----------



## 92safari

They can just be cut and drilled from 1/2" cold rolled round stock. Hair pin holes are drilled 3" apart. I like about 5/8" of roll pin sticking out past the plate mount to have a good fit for the reversible doubles on the outsides.


puckwert23 said:


> So where is everyone finding the 4"x 1/2" pins?


----------



## BROWN STAR

*New Build*

I will start by posting a link for the first part.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3500-lb-capacity-drop-leg-trailer-jack-3961.html#.Ux_Bjc7Em8C


----------



## BROWN STAR

Parts pictures


----------



## BROWN STAR

Parts mods


----------



## 92safari

Now you're just show in off.... I have to use a sharpie for my drawings


----------



## BROWN STAR

Press mount


----------



## BROWN STAR

That's the old windows paint program! Kinda old school and took some getting used to but it's working okay.

I will add more photos as I go.



92safari said:


> Now you're just show in off.... I have to use a sharpie for my drawings


----------



## BROWN STAR

Main body shimming.


----------



## BROWN STAR

Lengthening the jack extension to become the press extension arm.


----------



## BROWN STAR

Completing the main press body.


----------



## BROWN STAR

Adjustable side arm plates.


----------



## BROWN STAR

Complete side arm sub assembly.


----------



## BROWN STAR

Portable linear bow press and mounting options.


----------



## 92safari

In reference to a question on mounting plate spacing. I set them 3" apart using a jig consisting of 2 pieces of 1 1/2" tubing. The brackets are self squaring so I just set them in 1/2" from the ends of the arms and tack in place.


----------



## goldenarm

What type of springs are used? I havent found that info ,


----------



## BROWN STAR

*Special thanks*

I want to send out a special thank you to Tim at T&R enterprises in Newman for letting me bring my junk into his shop to do some fab work.

Also, thank you to another spacial Archerytalk member for the tips and tricks. You know who you are!

And last but certainly not least, Leon Pittman of LCA for producing such a great product! in the first place. Thanks Leon!


----------



## BROWN STAR

coil springs!



goldenarm said:


> What type of springs are used? I havent found that info ,


----------



## 92safari

You can use Hillman brand #48 springs or you can find similar springs at Lowes near the velcro. Liter guage but will work well.


goldenarm said:


> What type of springs are used? I havent found that info ,


----------



## goldenarm

thanks


----------



## BROWN STAR

Revision 1









Revision 2


----------



## BROWN STAR

Revision 2 replaces U bolts with straps and 3/8-16 bolts with threaded holes in a 3/8" thick mounting plate.


----------



## BROWN STAR

Don't forget to round all the corners on the mount plates and straps.



BROWN STAR said:


> Revision 2 replaces U bolts with straps and 3/8-16 bolts with threaded holes in a 3/8" thick mounting plate.


----------



## BROWN STAR

I threw the pins in the lathe to sand them up but I think I'm going to go with stainless, not sure yet. Cleaned up all the 1/2" holes on the brackets so everything works nice and smooth with no binding and no slop. I just hope it stays that way after welding, if not then I'll give em a massage until they're sweet.

I should be done within a week or so because I can only work on it for a very limited amount of time, depending on the powder coating too. Maybe two weeks! The stand is pretty much done, just needs cleaning and a coat of paint. Gotta drive 60 miles round trip to get the dip so I'm getting it online. Got any suggestions on that?

I'm also making the stake bed adapter for the press as shown in one of the images I posted so it mounts to the flatbed on my Tacoma. I'll think about a hitch mount later.

I already posted revision 1 & 2 images. Probably more to come.


----------



## BROWN STAR

I threw the pins in the lathe to sand them up but I think I'm going to go with stainless, not sure yet.

*I meant to say "STAINLESS BOLTS".*

The pins cleaned up nicely so I will be using them.


----------



## 92safari

I've seen you can get the Plasti-dip at Walmart now, home depot, lowes, Ace hardware, etc.


BROWN STAR said:


> I threw the pins in the lathe to sand them up but I think I'm going to go with stainless, not sure yet. Cleaned up all the 1/2" holes on the brackets so everything works nice and smooth with no binding and no slop. I just hope it stays that way after welding, if not then I'll give em a massage until they're sweet.
> 
> I should be done within a week or so because I can only work on it for a very limited amount of time, depending on the powder coating too. Maybe two weeks! The stand is pretty much done, just needs cleaning and a coat of paint. Gotta drive 60 miles round trip to get the dip so I'm getting it online. Got any suggestions on that?
> 
> I'm also making the stake bed adapter for the press as shown in one of the images I posted so it mounts to the flatbed on my Tacoma. I'll think about a hitch mount later.
> 
> I already posted revision 1 & 2 images. Probably more to come.


----------



## Fredro15

Hi all. This will be my first post on AT. I have been a member for awhile now, but but with my limited knowledge on archery, I never felt the need to chime in. Besides, there is so much information on this site that I can usually get my question answered from reading an old post (rookie questions are easy to find answers too!). I am a metal worker so when I came across this thread I was hooked. I love to tinker and build things and I have a small metal shop, so I figured this was a worth while endeavor. Thank you 92safari for creating this thread, and for everyone else who has helped make it what it is. Well here is my press so far. I still have to finish my fingers and a few other small things, but it is nearly complete.







Build note: I used a STICK welder for all of the welding on my build. My MIG needs a new liner so it is out of commission at the moment. I have seen a lot of talk about folks using a MIG, but I figured I would mention STICK as an option for those new to welding. They are also fairly inexpensive, and there are lots of different options with the welding rods (aluminum and stainless steel). I'll post pics when it is complete. Have a great day!


----------



## MJForce

Fredro15 said:


> I figured I would mention STICK as an option for those new to welding. They are also fairly inexpensive, and there are lots of different options with the welding rods (aluminum and stainless steel). I'll post pics when it is complete. Have a great day!


Ah. Just the guy I wanted too see. I've been pricing out migs on Craig's list and they seem around $300 and up for used 120v Century, Lincon, Hobart, mastercraft etc. 
I'd really like to keep this bow press within budget and so far I've priced out some parts (jack, sq tube under $100). It's the fingers I'm scratching my head over. I'm up in Vancouver so ordering through here might be a bit...I don't know? I would fabricate them if I thought they would turn out well. I even thought if using a mold of some borrowed fingers and pop out some carbon-fiber fingers. 

Back to welding. These little migs seem like the trick but I can't justify $300 for a tool I might use once a year. I'm not cheap just practical. I have enough wood working tools as it is. If this was a wood/electrical/plumbing project I'd be done by now. 

I may consider a want ad on Craig's list for a back yard welder. Someone close by. Could exchange trades or better...beer. 

Is $300 a reasonable budget for this press?

Your thoughts?


----------



## bowbender300

Once you get a welder, you'll find all kinds of projects that need to be welded. Over the years I have found I don't know how I did without a welder for this long.


----------



## 92safari

MJForce said:


> Ah. Just the guy I wanted too see. I've been pricing out migs on Craig's list and they seem around $300 and up for used 120v Century, Lincon, Hobart, mastercraft etc.
> I'd really like to keep this bow press within budget and so far I've priced out some parts (jack, sq tube under $100). It's the fingers I'm scratching my head over. I'm up in Vancouver so ordering through here might be a bit...I don't know? I would fabricate them if I thought they would turn out well. I even thought if using a mold of some borrowed fingers and pop out some carbon-fiber fingers.
> 
> Back to welding. These little migs seem like the trick but I can't justify $300 for a tool I might use once a year. I'm not cheap just practical. I have enough wood working tools as it is. If this was a wood/electrical/plumbing project I'd be done by now.
> 
> I may consider a want ad on Craig's list for a back yard welder. Someone close by. Could exchange trades or better...beer.
> 
> Is $300 a reasonable budget for this press?
> 
> Your thoughts?


You can pick up a hobby welder 90-125 amp for around $100


----------



## MJForce

92safari said:


> You can pick up a hobby welder 90-125 amp for around $100


Ah...not so much up here. They run about $300+ for a decent cheap new. $200 for a cheap new. 
I've offered $150 for some decent used but no bites yet.


----------



## 92safari

Fredro15 said:


> Hi all. This will be my first post on AT. I have been a member for awhile now, but but with my limited knowledge on archery, I never felt the need to chime in. Besides, there is so much information on this site that I can usually get my question answered from reading an old post (rookie questions are easy to find answers too!). I am a metal worker so when I came across this thread I was hooked. I love to tinker and build things and I have a small metal shop, so I figured this was a worth while endeavor. Thank you 92safari for creating this thread, and for everyone else who has helped make it what it is. Well here is my press so far. I still have to finish my fingers and a few other small things, but it is nearly complete.
> View attachment 1908459
> 
> Build note: I used a STICK welder for all of the welding on my build. My MIG needs a new liner so it is out of commission at the moment. I have seen a lot of talk about folks using a MIG, but I figured I would mention STICK as an option for those new to welding. They are also fairly inexpensive, and there are lots of different options with the welding rods (aluminum and stainless steel). I'll post pics when it is complete. Have a great day!


Nice Job!!! Looks good.. One tip as far as setting it up though; If primarilly pressing bows; put your rightside arm on the outside of your rightside leg leaving 3 or 4 inches of space to the rightside of the arm. This way you can just slide them right and left when putting the same bow in and out of the press while making adjustments.


----------



## MJForce

Btw. 92safari
Thank you for all your time and knowledge. And everyone else here too. This thread is my manual.


----------



## 92safari

Even a cheap 110 vt. welder from harbor Freight or TSC will tackle this project and many others you'll find to practice on. 
If your're just going for a drive; it doesn't matter if it's a Corvette or a Chevette


----------



## MJForce

pm sent to 92


----------



## thwacker

92safari said:


> Even a cheap 110 vt. welder from harbor Freight or TSC will tackle this project and many others you'll find to practice on.
> If your're just going for a drive; it doesn't matter if it's a Corvette or a Chevette


Yup core-flux 90v Harbor Freight wielder....you can get them on sale for $75-80


----------



## BROWN STAR

After starting the build and adding up the actual cost's so far (and I went as cheap as I could) it's definitely much more cost effective to just buy one outright. If you have all the material laying around and all the tools needed to fab it then you can easily make it for less than $300 but when you start buying welders and drills and grinders and cutoff wheels etc...etc...etc...etc! It could end up costing an easy thousand dollars to make, depending on what you have and what you don't or what you have and what you want.

So far the base parts alone (jack and others) $159.00, not including any other materials. When I decide to step up to a PAC press I'm just going to buy one!!!! I know It's not always about the money and in any concept you have, it's an easy build. But dime for dime? BUY a ready made instead! Especially if all you really need is a bow press.




MJForce said:


> Ah. Just the guy I wanted too see. I've been pricing out migs on Craig's list and they seem around $300 and up for used 120v Century, Lincon, Hobart, mastercraft etc.
> I'd really like to keep this bow press within budget and so far I've priced out some parts (jack, sq tube under $100). It's the fingers I'm scratching my head over. I'm up in Vancouver so ordering through here might be a bit...I don't know? I would fabricate them if I thought they would turn out well. I even thought if using a mold of some borrowed fingers and pop out some carbon-fiber fingers.
> 
> Back to welding. These little migs seem like the trick but I can't justify $300 for a tool I might use once a year. I'm not cheap just practical. I have enough wood working tools as it is. If this was a wood/electrical/plumbing project I'd be done by now.
> 
> I may consider a want ad on Craig's list for a back yard welder. Someone close by. Could exchange trades or better...beer.
> 
> Is $300 a reasonable budget for this press?
> 
> Your thoughts?


----------



## Shootn'Freak

Got a question for any past parallel users. When pressing them is there and issue with the riser moving to the right as you press the bow or do you just leave the set screw for the caution bar loose so the caution attachment slides to the right with the bow as you press it?


----------



## MJForce

BROWN STAR said:


> So far the base parts alone (jack and others) $159.00, not including any other materials. When I decide to step up to a PAC press I'm just going to buy one!!!! I know It's not always about the money and in any concept you have, it's an easy build. But dime for dime? BUY a ready made instead! Especially if all you really need is a bow press.


I hear what your saying but I think I lucked out on materials. A square tube jack and sq tube for under $100. If I don't buy a welder and can trick a friend to weld this up for a case of beer, I'd be under $250 after the misc. parts are added. An EZ-Press is over $500cdn up here.


----------



## mainehunt

My buddy and I built 2 of these over the weekend. 

We bought Reese brand trailer jacks for $24.99 each at Tractor Supply.

The steel cost $31.50 per press. Just waiting for another friend to finish the fingers on his CNC machine.

*Where are some of you getting the stainless steel wheel handles?*

edited to add....that price for the steel included them cutting it all to length.


----------



## drhorsepower

If I use a longer acme rod, can I use it as a draw board as well?


----------



## tminer

Tagged! Another future project. Great design 92safari!


----------



## .BuckHunt.

Got mine done this weekend, will post pictures soon!


----------



## 92safari

*Draw Tower*

Here are several pics of the Draw Tower Attachment that slides into the caution bar vertical support. It's made telescopic. I'll post measurements and such after.


----------



## 92safari

more


----------



## 92safari

few more


----------



## Fisher_dude

i just finished building mine. Cost me $120. $50 for the waterjetted fingers and $70 for the 5000lb trailer jack. I had everything else laying around. I was actually fairly suprised at the tolerances of this jack. Im not using any shims and it works great. Just have to fit up something so i can use my cordless drill instead of this huge hand crank. I fabbed up an extra bracket to use when im out at 3d shoots if anyone needs to use it.


----------



## .BuckHunt.

mainehunt said:


> *Where are some of you getting the stainless steel wheel handles?*
> 
> edited to add....that price for the steel included them cutting it all to length.


From earlier in the thread
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Cast-Iron-Handwheel-8-/H3190

along with this

http://www.grizzly.com/products/H3205

That's the one I got, worked great!

What did you get for steel? Because that was a great price!


----------



## drhorsepower

92 how easy is it with the pulleys? I'm a little skeptical not having a mechanical locking device. Other than that it looks like a good setup.


----------



## BROWN STAR

If you look closely you can see that pulley setup does lock mechanically. The lever engages the pulley to make the rope "scrub" lock in place.



drhorsepower said:


> 92 how easy is it with the pulleys? I'm a little skeptical not having a mechanical locking device. Other than that it looks like a good setup.


----------



## drhorsepower

BROWN STAR said:


> If you look closely you can see that pulley setup does lock mechanically. The lever engages the pulley to make the rope "scrub" lock in place.


Ahhhhh!!!!! Thanks!


----------



## BROWN STAR

This is what I went with. I've used these before hauling engines and they work killer and don't creep or release until you want it to.


----------



## drhorsepower

Thanks bs. This thread has really got me motivated.


----------



## BROWN STAR

This is how I rigged the draw tower.


----------



## Kaizoku

This is the pulley system I bought. It is the same one that the bow-a-constrictor guy sells with his quick draw and tune system ($215). I sent him a PM asking if he would sell me just the pulley system because I didn't need tubing and he said no. So I went on a google search.

Tuf Tug TTRH700-50 comes with the rope and everything.
http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/tuf-tug-rope-hoist-block-tackle/0000000033585


----------



## BROWN STAR

That's a little rich at $50. How big is that thing, looks huge in the picture.



Kaizoku said:


> This is the pulley system I bought. It is the same one that the bow-a-constrictor guy sells with his quick draw and tune system ($215). I sent him a PM asking if he would sell me just the pulley system because I didn't need tubing and he said no. So I went on a google search.
> 
> Tuf Tug TTRH700-50 comes with the rope and everything.
> http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/tuf-tug-rope-hoist-block-tackle/0000000033585


----------



## Kaizoku

It might be a little rich but I'm not worried about it. The most expensive thing still were the hangers.

I haven't received it yet so I do not know the actual size. But here is a picture posted by someone else. 

http://s166.photobucket.com/user/wis913/media/press/IMG_9832.jpg.html


----------



## 92safari

Thats just a simple and inexpensive game hoist setup. 4 pulleys is much easier on pull than just 2. For all points and purposes; it works very well and right around $30-$35 with new rope and stainless snap hook rated 500 lbs. For the most part I usually draw and hold while I'm looking at the cams. The catch will hold it and catch it in case of slipping, but you'll loose an inch or so in the draw as it enguages. You can use several different setups for drawing. This provides a tower platform to work from. I forget what they're called , but those pulley blocks they use in sailing look pretty sweet. Maybe down the road I'll try one, but once again for all points and purposes the hoist works...


drhorsepower said:


> 92 how easy is it with the pulleys? I'm a little skeptical not having a mechanical locking device. Other than that it looks like a good setup.


----------



## drhorsepower

Thanks 92.... Again


----------



## BROWN STAR

That actually looks pretty good. not as big as I thought.


Kaizoku said:


> It might be a little rich but I'm not worried about it. The most expensive thing still were the hangers.
> 
> I haven't received it yet so I do not know the actual size. But here is a picture posted by someone else.
> 
> http://s166.photobucket.com/user/wis913/media/press/IMG_9832.jpg.html


----------



## puckwert23

Finally got her done.






just need to bolt her down and i'm ready to go. Thanks 92


----------



## huntnhammer

This is pretty sweet!


----------



## .BuckHunt.

Painting parts right now


----------



## topjimmy

Ok I'm in. Ordered some of them fancy coat hangers for mine. I hope he has the side plates, I want to make the modular version with the draw board and caution bar. Is there a newer cut list? I know the one on the first page is there but with all the changes we need an updated one.


----------



## topjimmy

Ok, so I have access to 2 inch and 1 inch square tube. I think going with the 2" is crazy overkill. What do you think about using the 1" for the inside piece and buying 1.25 for the body and tail?


----------



## .BuckHunt.

Get nestable square tubing from Mcmaster Carr. I went with 1.5" &1.25"


----------



## topjimmy

.BuckHunt. said:


> Get nestable square tubing from Mcmaster Carr. I went with 1.5" &1.25"


Looking on their site, they don't have it in less than 1.75 unless I go with the perferated. It's kind of pricey too.


----------



## .BuckHunt.

Yea that's what I had to go with. Eliminates the need for shims, which was worth it for me


----------



## topjimmy

.BuckHunt. said:


> Yea that's what I had to go with. Eliminates the need for shims, which was worth it for me


It might be nice with the perf. Then you could just use a pin or a bolt instead of the levers to change the length.


----------



## .BuckHunt.

topjimmy said:


> It might be nice with the perf. Then you could just use a pin or a bolt instead of the levers to change the length.


Yup, I just cut a 5" piece of the 1.5" for my slider and drilled a hole centered. No worries about it slipping.


----------



## .BuckHunt.

Finally, got my press done!





When I went to McMaster Carr to get my nestable tubing I couldn't find the 1.25" that wasn't perforated. At first I thought that was going to be a set back, however as I kept thinking on it I figured it might actually be beneficial. I cut a 5" piece of the 1.5" to use as my slider and drilled a hole centered. Now I can use a bolt/pin to set the slider piece and not worry about it ever slipping. 



I did however add a set screw on the back side of the slider because I noticed there was a tiny bit of slop in it. For now I just have a small piece of threaded rod and a nut that's welded solid for my set screw until I find a thumb screw to replace it with. The tapped hole for the set screw is offset from the holes in the tubing. That took care of that little slop.



For my main body I went with ~22". I have a 16" screw from my jack and I wanted atleast 6" of the sliding piece in the main body at full extension. My extension piece is currently full length (4') until I decide how much of it I need. Right now I can compress down to 19", so probably could work on a 20-21" AtA xbow (not much call for that here in MN) and the max extension is 56". So assuming a bow takes 10" to fully let down I can work up to 46" AtA, more if I don't need to let down, which I don't see myself needing in the near future but it's there if I need it.


----------



## topjimmy

Very nice. Can't wait for my hangers to arrive so I can get started. I just finished my draw board today, checked my cams they were in perfect time.


----------



## K2man

Nice press BuckHunt! Hope mine turns out that good. I just got my parts all rounded up today wit a lot of help from 92Safari. I counted about 92 pieces, if you count each and every nut, bolt and washer. I laid out all the parts on a table (should have used the floor) then got a ladder so I could take a picture of em all. I'll post that later- can't figure how to get it from my email to this forum via my gen1 iPad.


----------



## ClintR

K2man said:


> Nice press BuckHunt! Hope mine turns out that good. I just got my parts all rounded up today wit a lot of help from 92Safari. I counted about 92 pieces, if you count each and every nut, bolt and washer. I laid out all the parts on a table (should have used the floor) then got a ladder so I could take a picture of em all. I'll post that later- can't figure how to get it from my email to this forum via my gen1 iPad.


You need the tapatalk app


----------



## Supermag1

I like the perforated nestable tuning. That would REALLY speed up press changes between long and short ata bows (I think it takes about as long to hand crank an inline out from working on Creed to a Triumph as it does to replace a center serving).


----------



## topjimmy

Well the movable tail piece that most people use has two set screws in it to acomplish the same thing. I still like the idea, but that tube is double the cost of what I can get standard tubular steel for.


----------



## Flivver90

A_LOTA_NOTA said:


> Yes, They are in dwg format, I can also send them in dxf format so they can be sent to the burner.


Could I get a copy of the dxf file for the slimline hangers? I'd love to build one of these!


----------



## T.Murphy4

92, sent you a PM


----------



## J Demuth

Got mine welded up and awaiting some hangers and brackets. Can't wait to finally have a press.


----------



## BROWN STAR

I'm not seeing anyone using a measuring device on their presses. I am going to try to make one like the yardage indicator on a target sight. A basic pointer and scale.


----------



## BROWN STAR

This will give me 4X purchase with the cleat block. There will be a 17lb max pull on a 70lb bow.


















BROWN STAR said:


> This is how I rigged the draw tower.
> 
> View attachment 1910306


----------



## BROWN STAR

I wish I could have a 17lb max pull on my 70lb bow when I'm shooting. HaHaHa


----------



## topjimmy

Just got my hangers. I'll have to make a side bracket but that should not be too difficult.


----------



## scubaseven

What do you guys use for the wheel/handle?

The closest I can find is a crank wheel handle for about $40.


----------



## Flivver90

Pm'd you 92


----------



## .BuckHunt.

scubaseven said:


> What do you guys use for the wheel/handle?
> 
> The closest I can find is a crank wheel handle for about $40.


http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1069730041


----------



## 92safari

On the road today. Will answer pm's tonite.


----------



## redyak3

Nice Job BuckHunt!!! I built a "ver.1" a while back. Works good, but your press makes me want to upgrade...


----------



## lsmerrill

What kind of price has everyone found on their steel for this build? If you don't feel comfortable posting it on here send me a pm. I got a quote today and it was about $50 more than I thought it would be. $145.00


----------



## K2man

Just getting started assembling my press. My press fingers have a maximum spread outside to outside of 2.5" - surely that's big enough for any bow?


----------



## 92safari

You'd get another .5" and be able to flip at will if you put your doubles on the outside of the mounts. Set mounts 3" apart.


K2man said:


> Just getting started assembling my press. My press fingers have a maximum spread outside to outside of 2.5" - surely that's big enough for any bow?


----------



## K2man

I'm not understanding that. Are you saying to weld the two plates to the tube at 3" apart?


----------



## 92safari

Yup.. inside to inside with double hangar on outside of the mount. Center know holds in place.


K2man said:


> I'm not understanding that. Are you saying to weld the two plates to the tube at 3" apart?


----------



## windtech007

This is what I ended up with.


----------



## .BuckHunt.

windtech007 said:


> This is what I ended up with.
> 
> View attachment 1924207
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 1924208


What did you use for those three sliding pieces?


----------



## 92safari

shoot me a pm. May be able to help with that.


topjimmy said:


> Just got my hangers. I'll have to make a side bracket but that should not be too difficult.


----------



## topjimmy

92safari said:


> shoot me a pm. May be able to help with that.


sent


----------



## topjimmy

lsmerrill said:


> What kind of price has everyone found on their steel for this build? If you don't feel comfortable posting it on here send me a pm. I got a quote today and it was about $50 more than I thought it would be. $145.00


I can get 12ft of 1.25 for $30 and 1.5 for $40.


----------



## K2man

Here's a picture of the start of my press - all parts and pieces - with a yardstick and bow square thrown in for scale 









And thanks for the tip on the Taptalk app Clint. It works great and is super easy to use.


----------



## windtech007

Those are home brew. 1/8" x 5" flat I bent the flat around 2 x 2 sq tube.


----------



## ClintR

K2man said:


> Here's a picture of the start of my press - all parts and pieces - with a yardstick and bow square thrown in for scale
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And thanks for the tip on the Taptalk app Clint. It works great and is super easy to use.


Yep....a must app for any forum dweller.  You're welcome sir.


----------



## BROWN STAR

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe someone has a kit just like what is shown here.


----------



## BROWN STAR

Except for the bow square and the yard rule!


----------



## K2man

92 pieces came from .... 92safari!


----------



## K2man

So here's the correct way to assemble the fingers- before welding -









These photos show how to put the plates together with the fingers, pins, springs and clips and get them all in the right place. It makes a difference - put it all together before you weld the plates to your square channel. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong - earlier versions were different in that both of the fingers were inside the plates (the springs touched both fingers) - 92's new and improved version has the outside finger outside of the outboard plate, so it is easy to reverse it if needed by just unscrewing the knob/¼-20 stud- you don't have to touch the pins or clips. A nice improvement! I know 92 already posted this info, but I was a little confused back there, so I hope this helps someone else out there. 

I want to add that my one picture shows a bolt with a nut where the knob and stud should be. I'll cut off the bolt head, loctite it into my threaded knob, then use it here. The other photo is the back side = inboard side = side closest to the jack screw.


----------



## BROWN STAR

I know, I was just eluding to the fact so people know It's available in kit form.......Well worth it wasn't it!



K2man said:


> 92 pieces came from .... 92safari!


----------



## BROWN STAR

I'm pretty sure the parts are the same but the configuration has been modified so the outboard hangar becomes "Quick change" so you can just remove the bolt with the knob still attached and disengage the pins to flip only the outboard set. 

I opted for 2 1/2" spacing between the hangar brackets so the quick pins are on the outside of both brackets and the hangars are on the inside of both brackets. I did it this way because 
1) I'm not a shop and don't have much reason for things to be "Quick change", How hard is it to pull two pins and a bolt. 
2) The hangars come a lot closer to each other without collapsing the springs at all. 
3) The spacing will still fit a double track cam as well as the narrowest limb tip spacing. With the brackets in the "Modified", "Quick change" position you will never get the hangers to close up enough to service the really narrow limb spaced bows like some of the older Bears, Jennings, HCA's and even some of the solid limb bows. You will be half on and half off the limbs with each hangar. But you can still change the configuration a bit to gain the narrow space, but then there goes your "Quick change".

Besides, with the brackets closer together it's stronger! 

Here is a pic of it. Notice the bow in it and how the spring coils have not collapsed in on each other and he has plenty more adjustment to go.


----------



## BROWN STAR

With this configuration you have the thickness of the quick pin AND the mounting bracket which happens to be just enough to make a difference. Your springs will collapse and bind sooner and you will have to reconfigure for narrow limb spaced bows. I'm not trying to go against the grain here I just set it up differently for my needs and was merely offering my observations. Either way it's a great set up!


----------



## .BuckHunt.

windtech007 said:


> Those are home brew. 1/8" x 5" flat I bent the flat around 2 x 2 sq tube.


Those are nice!


----------



## K2man

Good point Brown Star! I think I like your configuration. It is a bit more secure. I don't think I'll be needing to change my fingers much, and you are right, it isn't a big deal to pull a couple of spring pins. Glad I didn't start welding yet. Good to kick these things around a bit. I'm going to put mine back together this way tonight - I think you can always move the one finger outside still if you want to - right? Would there ever be a bow that would need to have the fingers wider than with the inside of your two brackets?


----------



## K2man

BROWN STAR said:


> I know, I was just eluding to the fact so people know It's available in kit form.......Well worth it wasn't it!


I really want to build this bow press myself, cause I like to build things. I've built lots of stuff, and I know how long it takes to figure out just what you need, track down all the parts, order them, sometimes reorder because they are out of stock somewhere - a lot of time involved before you even get to turn a wrench or lite a torch! I'm busy trying to learn how to shoot my bow along with several other really hi priority projects (my future employment) and my current job, etc, etc. so time is short. And I still really want to build this bow press! So it was great that 92Safari could provide all the parts. The stuff is all cut and deburred nice, so all I have to do is some cleaning (always clean before welding!), weld, paint, assemble, get with nuts&bolts for some lessons on how to tune my bow, then !!!! I'm good!!! Ready to go hunting!


----------



## bwhntr7973

tagging for later gator.


----------



## BROWN STAR

Yes you can still convert the hangar to be on the outside of the bracket. and you will probably never see a bow that would need the hangars spread wide open.




K2man said:


> Good point Brown Star! I think I like your configuration. It is a bit more secure. I don't think I'll be needing to change my fingers much, and you are right, it isn't a big deal to pull a couple of spring pins. Glad I didn't start welding yet. Good to kick these things around a bit. I'm going to put mine back together this way tonight - I think you can always move the one finger outside still if you want to - right? Would there ever be a bow that would need to have the fingers wider than with the inside of your two brackets?


----------



## BROWN STAR

If I had to do it all over I would definitely opt for the kit or just buy one outright. It would be pro built in a jig and ready to go when it got here.



K2man said:


> I really want to build this bow press myself, cause I like to build things. I've built lots of stuff, and I know how long it takes to figure out just what you need, track down all the parts, order them, sometimes reorder because they are out of stock somewhere - a lot of time involved before you even get to turn a wrench or lite a torch! I'm busy trying to learn how to shoot my bow along with several other really hi priority projects (my future employment) and my current job, etc, etc. so time is short. And I still really want to build this bow press! So it was great that 92Safari could provide all the parts. The stuff is all cut and deburred nice, so all I have to do is some cleaning (always clean before welding!), weld, paint, assemble, get with nuts&bolts for some lessons on how to tune my bow, then !!!! I'm good!!! Ready to go hunting!


----------



## 92safari

Main reason for putting doubles outside the mount plate is so you can just remove center adjustment know and flip the hangars. A lot of bows have the wide stance limbs like my Bear bows. You can set them up several ways. Way back in the thread there's several configurations shown with lots of pics. Whatever works best for your needs..


----------



## 92safari

Starting on page 9 there's several arrangements..
Man.. I'm stuck in Madison Wisc. (Lost driveshaft and transfer case)In a hotel room with no vehicle or clothes for whole weekend (everything still in vehicle), and now I see they have a Deer and Turkey Expo going on.. my luck.. lol


----------



## BROWN STAR

Too bad you didn't have a couple better strokes of luck. Hope you can get on the road soon and have an uneventful trip from there.



92safari said:


> Starting on page 9 there's several arrangements..
> Man.. I'm stuck in Madison Wisc. (Lost driveshaft and transfer case)In a hotel room with no vehicle or clothes for whole weekend (everything still in vehicle), and now I see they have a Deer and Turkey Expo going on.. my luck.. lol


----------



## K2man

Hey 92, where did you get the plastic caps for the ends of the square tubing?


----------



## 92safari

mcmaster carr has them. have to buy alot but not too expensive..


K2man said:


> Hey 92, where did you get the plastic caps for the ends of the square tubing?


----------



## K2man

Thanks. They have the plastic knobs too? I'm going to make mine look all purdy


----------



## 92safari

If you look back I posted part numbers as well on the parts lists.


----------



## K2man

Thanks. Hard to keep track of with only 1151 post. Oops, 1152 now! :wink:


----------



## 92safari

touche'


K2man said:


> Thanks. Hard to keep track of with only 1151 post. Oops, 1152 now! :wink:


----------



## Flivver90

92safari said:


> If you look back I posted part numbers as well on the parts lists.


Post #842 :wink:

Hardware for standard setup:
4- #48 Hillman springs (Ace Hdwr)
8- 1/4 x 20 x 1" cap screws (#91251A542 McMaster Carr)
4- 1/2" x 4" pins
2- adjustment knobs part #59625K35 (McMaster Carr)
2- 4 1/2" x 1/4 x 20 threaded bolts for adjustment knobs
8- 3/8"-1/2" hair pins
2 1/4" washers for adjustment knobs
1-2 cans of Plasti-dip


----------



## my3sons

Finished mine this last week. Just basically did my own idea on the fingers used small springs to hold fingers back.


----------



## sooner_hunter

Saving


----------



## Flivver90

Sent a couple PM's your way 92Safari...Hope you've made it out of Madison, WI!


----------



## 92safari

Finally back.. I'll work on catching up communications and such today. Be patient with me though; I got a big list today


----------



## K2man

I my slimline! Going together well. Got all my parts from 92, they're all cut real nice. I had to first wire up my welder. I moved my shop, didn't realize I hadn't 



done any welding since then.


----------



## K2man

Ok, having trouble with my phone. I'll try to post photos of my progress.








First, always remember to tack weld in 3 or 4 spots around your joint. I hadn't welded in so long, it felt so good to get a good bead going that I just kept going, and welded a whole side of a tube. It warped the whole thing crooked. I had to get out the hack saw and try again.


----------



## K2man

Here's some more pictures of my progress








I drilled some holes to put knobs down lower on the legs - to get my legs longer - don't know if that will be of use, but I kinda did it because I didn't pay attention when I welded the predrilled tubes to the 1 ¾ slider tubes- the holes were on the hi side. I also drilled a third hole in the tail arm for a third knob. 92 mentioned he had 3 knobs in his tail arm, in case he wanted to flip it over for a short bow. Easy to drill a hole and weld a nut now.


----------



## K2man

Here's some more pictures of my progress


----------



## K2man

Here is a photo of an assembly that I don't think has been posted before. It may seem obvious, but I wasn't really sure about it. Hope it helps someone.








This is the acme thread with one washer, goes into the 1 ½ inch square tube that you welded the heavy ¾ " washer plus the ½" washer on top of the ¾"washer. An important point in building concerns these washers. The thrust washer will ride on top of this "double stack" of washers. If these washers are not perpendicular to the acme thread, then the thrust washer will not seat fully on the stack of washers. A 70 or even 80# bow isn't going to wear out the bearing in a few presses, but over time, the unbalanced loading on the bearing may cause it to wear out prematurely.


----------



## K2man

Here's my "double stack" of washers. I really burnt up the ½" washer when I welded it on. I'll go back and fill it back in with filler rod. My washer was tilted a little, so I ground it to be perpendicular on a disk sander. I'll clean if up some more after I fill in my craters. If I were a better welder or wasn't so particular if be done. I do like to do things right.


----------



## K2man

Forgot to include the photo


----------



## Brad H

In for future reference.


----------



## 92safari

If you just tack the washers and parts they wont warp out of position when heated. usually on the washer your first tack will raise the opposing side if not held in place until atleast 2 tacks are in place.


K2man said:


> Forgot to include the photo


----------



## PowerLineman83

Here are pix of the press I put together. Thanks for everyone's help!









Here's a pic if it "folded". Saves me from hurting myself walking through the garage!


----------



## K2man

Nice! That's a great feature, mounting it to the post, and making it swing out of the way. Great idea!


----------



## K2man

A few extra steps that I am doing - 1) Welding zinc produces toxic fumes that will make you sick if you breathe it (look it up if you're not familiar wit it) so I strip all nuts with muratic acid for 10 minutes, neutralize with limestone then rinse and clean up with phosphoric acid.









After welding on the nuts, I tap to get good threads back. 









Here's my pile of parts with most of the nuts welded on.









The first nuts I welded, I thought I might burn up, so I turned down the amperage. That was a mistake:









So I turned it back up, and didn't use any filler rod on this one:


----------



## Aussiehunter1

Here is my version of the slimline bow press, on the left side you can see the handle for pressing, on the right hand side i can remove locating pin and slide press fingers to required length,then crank the handle  The fingers are from SAFARI92 ( thanks for a great job ).I use a magnetic parts dish that simply sticks where ever you wish to hold parts.The bow press slips out of the stand then i slip in string stretcher jig. I must thank this thread for many great ideas.


----------



## BROWN STAR

Hey Aussie,

Do you shoot a left hand bow? I already know you drive on the left hand side and now your press is left handed? 
What else are you doing with that left hand? Just kidding with ya. I gotta tell ya, that's a pretty sweet press!

Cheers



Aussiehunter1 said:


> View attachment 1934520
> 
> Here is my version of the slimline bow press, on the left side you can see the handle for pressing, on the right hand side i can remove locating pin and slide press fingers to required length,then crank the handle  The fingers are from SAFARI92 ( thanks for a great job ).I use a magnetic parts dish that simply sticks where ever you wish to hold parts.The bow press slips out of the stand then i slip in string stretcher jig. I must thank this thread for many great ideas.


----------



## K2man

Got my press all assembled! Just have to clean it up and paint. Think I'm going to clean with muratic acid to get the inside of the tubes clean to hold primer (gotta have or it will rust here). Here's a quick picture in my messy shop.


----------



## Aussiehunter1

LOL No i shoot right handed, i just found it easier to steady bow in right hand and crank with left Thanks


----------



## BowBaker1640

I was just looking at this system of mounting the hangers and reading and saw where you said that if you turned the hanger around you could do shorter bows and I came up with the idea that if you wanted you could also make adapters to slide inside the hanger mount tube and get even shorter if you found the need


92safari said:


> Now we're going to set up and tack our hangar mounts in place. I do it before tacking all the lever nuts in their holes it easier to get everything as straight as possible dealing with flat surfaces. On the main frame; we come in 1 1/2" from the crank end, line our hangar bracket up as straight and squarely as possible, and clamp in place for tack welding. When we go to weld these in place; we're going to tack weld each of the 4 corners before final welding. This way things won't to puleed out of whack when heat distorts the metal.
> Now we gab our 10"x 1 1/2" sliding tail piece and clamp our hangar mount in place; only this time we are letting the mount hang past the end of the tail piece by 1 1/2". This allows us to press very short ATA's by simply reversing the tail piece ( about 19" ata). I don't shim my tail piece to fit nuggly because it really doesn't matter on the tail when tighteng it down with the levers. This allows the 1 1/2" overhang of the hangar mount to overlap onto the press frame shortening the minimum ATA span even more.


----------



## brenth

Here is an ad on idea that I came up with to do to my press, it makes a great spine tester.
View attachment 1941358
View attachment 1941359
View attachment 1941361
View attachment 1941362


----------



## BowBaker1640

what are the slick strip shims? can you post a picture? thank you


92safari said:


> If you just use 14 guage steel it easily fits inside each other and the can shim the difference either with fender washers or .030 slick strips. I understand that you can get some kind of seamless from Mcmastercarr, but I always just use a 14 guage outter tube and use the slick strip shims.


----------



## BROWN STAR

They are Teflon, UHMW or Delrin strips but aren't required. They are mostly to save from marring the paint. Any shim material will work to take up the play between the main body and the extension.

Here is a pic of where they go.











BowBaker1640 said:


> what are the slick strip shims? can you post a picture? thank you


----------



## K2man

Slick Strips - available on Amazon and other places. $8 for the roll, self adhesive, for this: 
Slick Strips reduce friction to the point where almost everything moves like its mounted on ball bearings! This special UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight) adhesive-backed flexible plastic film has a low coefficient of friction and a high abrasion resistance that surpasses even Teflon. The 3/4" width is perfect for renewing the smooth run of worn wooden drawers.10.5 rolls are easily cut to length.Slick strips are 1/32" thick.


----------



## BROWN STAR

I would just use a sheet metal shim. A little grease and it will last forever with zero issues. You may have problems with adhesive backed materials, especially UHMW! (nothing really sticks to it for long). 

Nothing like having to tear down your whole press to replace it if it fails!


----------



## 92safari

Actually; To tear the press apart you just take off the handle and slide out the inner tube. Either way is fine. Bare steel is less to mess with.


BROWN STAR said:


> I would just use a sheet metal shim. A little grease and it will last forever with zero issues. You may have problems with adhesive backed materials, especially UHMW! (nothing really sticks to it for long).
> 
> Nothing like having to tear down your whole press to replace it if it fails!


----------



## wamp98

So just a quick question... was thinking of using a square jack to eliminate the need of fabing up the press... My question is will it still work ok with the thrust washer and bearing on the inside or should it be disassembled and the thrust washer and bearingbe placed on the outside between the jack housing and handle to prevent binding and smoother operation? Has anyone just used a stock square tube jack and how did it work? Sorry if I'm dumb...


----------



## wamp98

And to add further. Replacing the crank handle with a wheel... the wheel needs to be securely fastened to the rod because all the pressure of pressing the bow is placed on the wheel correct? If the wheel comes off the rod, it will cause failure and dry fire the bow? Am I correct in assuming this?


----------



## Muleyhunter17

Nice press!! Great job 92..


----------



## 92safari

Several guys have just modified a square jack with good results. Generally jacks are set up to push where your press is pulling; Shouldn't matter much if bearings are inside or out. If possible I put them out..


wamp98 said:


> So just a quick question... was thinking of using a square jack to eliminate the need of fabing up the press... My question is will it still work ok with the thrust washer and bearing on the inside or should it be disassembled and the thrust washer and bearingbe placed on the outside between the jack housing and handle to prevent binding and smoother operation? Has anyone just used a stock square tube jack and how did it work? Sorry if I'm dumb...


----------



## 92safari

wamp98 said:


> And to add further. Replacing the crank handle with a wheel... the wheel needs to be securely fastened to the rod because all the pressure of pressing the bow is placed on the wheel correct? If the wheel comes off the rod, it will cause failure and dry fire the bow? Am I correct in assuming this?


If the wheel is only thing holding your jackscrew in the press tube then yes things will fall apart. If you have a set screwed nut or something preventing the jackscrew from coming out without the wheel in place; then it would be ok..


----------



## Flivver90

Okay, so I've got the press welded and put together (waiting on sanding and paint). I have a question about the "slop" in the main press tube. I put slick strips on all four insides of the 1 1/2, but there seems to be a lot of play in between the two? So much so, that the compression arm doesn't sit level. Do I need to double up the slick strips or can/should I go back to the fender washer method?


----------



## wamp98

*pics of my press*

Press all welded up waiting on fingers. I made a draw board attachment for it


----------



## BROWN STAR

I didn't use washers or slick strips and I have nearly zero play/slop.
I tried several thicknesses of sheet metal until I got one that fit tight. It's got to be tight! even with it tight the press works very smooth with no play.



Flivver90 said:


> Okay, so I've got the press welded and put together (waiting on sanding and paint). I have a question about the "slop" in the main press tube. I put slick strips on all four insides of the 1 1/2, but there seems to be a lot of play in between the two? So much so, that the compression arm doesn't sit level. Do I need to double up the slick strips or can/should I go back to the fender washer method?


----------



## Flivver90

So you put sheet metal inside all 4 sides of the inch and a half and inch and three quartet pieces?



BROWN STAR said:


> I didn't use washers or slick strips and I have nearly zero play/slop.
> I tried several thicknesses of sheet metal until I got one that fit tight. It's got to be tight! even with it tight the press works very smooth with no play.


----------



## BROWN STAR

No, only the bottom and back on the inside of the tube. If you find what ever you are using is too thin and the last piece was too thick then just distort the thinner piece so it takes up more room in the tube end. What I mean is, give it a little bend if you have to. 

Read post 1178. There is a drawing and explanation. And 92 shows an actual photo it in the original build.



Flivver90 said:


> So you put sheet metal inside all 4 sides of the inch and a half and inch and three quartet pieces?


----------



## Flivver90

Thanks for the info and the reference...I'll take a look.



BROWN STAR said:


> No, only the bottom and back on the inside of the tube. If you find what ever you are using is too thin and the last piece was too thick then just distort the thinner piece so it takes up more room in the tube end. What I mean is, give it a little bend if you have to.
> 
> Read post 1178. There is a drawing and explanation. And 92 shows an actual photo it in the original build.


----------



## 92safari

inside singles pic


----------



## sundevil204

92safari said:


> inside singles pic


Can u sell a set of your finger kits?


----------



## 92safari

No selling through DIY thread.. You can use this link for info in the classifieds..
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2115941&page=4


sundevil204 said:


> Can u sell a set of your finger kits?


----------



## 92safari

Nice .. I'll put up some pics of the draw attachment mounts that I made up using the same winch you have. Suggest using stainless snap hooks or whatever for drawing. better weight limits. I used a truefire release aid bolted through the end of the strap after cutting the hook off. You find that you'll want around a 3" offset from pivot to winch to draw fairly level for shooting or observation.


wamp98 said:


> Press all welded up waiting on fingers. I made a draw board attachment for it


----------



## 92safari

Also a good idea to use gussets in the corners of your arms just for the added strength. I use 6" arms with 2 1/2" gussets and 4" sleeves.


wamp98 said:


> Press all welded up waiting on fingers. I made a draw board attachment for it


----------



## 92safari

*crossbow inline*

Here are some pics of a simple xbow inline I built for someone. It goes down to 15" and still out to 36" to still be able to maintain most vertical bows. I used an 18" body tube and 7" tail piece. Same legs as the modular version except fixed position and added fixed feet.


----------



## 92safari

couple more


----------



## 92safari

with the caution bar/drawtower


----------



## 92safari

tower extended..


----------



## drhorsepower

I've been working on a pair of presses. 95% done and needs paint. 



http://s104.photobucket.com/user/ch...2-4D43-9BFF-4104CC0C0A34_zpsttpkzozh.jpg.html


----------



## drhorsepower




----------



## drhorsepower

Thanks for everyone's help, I finished my presses. Tell me what you think!


----------



## BROWN STAR

Pretty sweet! Nice clean welds and great color scheme. It's the HULK press.


----------



## bowguy357

drhorsepower said:


> Thanks for everyone's help, I finished my presses. Tell me what you think!


what i like about these it looks like the arm on the right can come off. and if that is the case then you could use this for many things with attachments. like a draw board or even a shooting rig if bolted down or secured somehow. great work


----------



## drhorsepower

bowguy357 said:


> what i like about these it looks like the arm on the right can come off. and if that is the case then you could use this for many things with attachments. like a draw board or even a shooting rig if bolted down or secured somehow. great work


That's the intentions.


----------



## JB17

Here's mine, don't look as good as most of yours, I was trying to build it with material I had laying around, that's why I did it round instead of square.


----------



## BROWN STAR

If it presses a bow that's all that matters. Looks good to me!


----------



## 92safari

I like it.. You made it and evidentally it works  Good job!!


JB17 said:


> Here's mine, don't look as good as most of yours, I was trying to build it with material I had laying around, that's why I did it round instead of square.
> View attachment 1962712
> View attachment 1962713
> View attachment 1962714
> View attachment 1962715
> View attachment 1962716


----------



## JB17

92safari said:


> I like it.. You made it and evidentally it works  Good job!!


Thank you sir.


----------



## AldoTheApache

I have re read this thread and perhaps I missed it but what size nuts, screws, and knobs are people using to create set screws on the modular presses? Also if anyone has any extra side plate mounts for 92safaris finger assemblies they'd be willing to part with please pm me. I tried messaging 92 but his inbox is full. Thanks for any feedback.


----------



## 92safari

I use 5/16" but 3/8" would be fine too. Never had any hint of slippage. I have mounts. I'll clear some pm's when I get back.


----------



## AldoTheApache

Thx 92 Ill pm you about those mounts when your inbox is empty.


----------



## 92safari

Reversible doubles


----------



## 92safari

Heres the caution bar/draw attachment by itself. I will be listing the whole setup (less hangar assemblies ) in the classifieds along with the draw/shooter attachments (less winch and release aid) as my Pac-Press modular draw station (with a couple optional upgrades available on request).


----------



## 92safari

To answer a question;

To use the draw shooter attachment; right arm is sleeved so the hangar assembly and winch mount arm interchangeable. Tail piece pivot is seperate piece alltogether.


----------



## mwntnmuleys

Ttt


----------



## 92safari

Anyone making progress?? I ran a few with the draw attachments.


----------



## erdman41

Finished mine up


----------



## 92safari

Looks GREAT!!


----------



## K2man

Looks real nice erdman! I have mine all assembled but I haven't painted it yet. I want to clean it up real good before I paint it. Was thinking of using muratic acid, which gets everything off the steel (rust, burnt on oil). Follow that with phosphoric acid (ospho) which makes an iron-phosphate base, excellent for paint to stick to. Just have been too busy with another project to spend time on my press. Nice to see others finished presses though! Great work!


----------



## ClintR

Where can I get the bolts with the black knobs for securing the legs, etc ?

Also where can I get the long bolt with black knob used for adjusting the distance between the hangers? One of mine has messed up threads and won't go in.


----------



## erdman41

ClintRhodes said:


> Where can I get the bolts with the black knobs for securing the legs, etc ?
> 
> Also where can I get the long bolt with black knob used for adjusting the distance between the hangers? One of mine has messed up threads and won't go in.


Ebay


----------



## 92safari

http://www.mcmaster.com/

59625K35
Five-Arm Knob, Polypropylene, 1/4"-20 Threaded Insert, 1-5/16" Diameter

59625K35
Five-Arm Knob, Polypropylene, 1/4"-20 Threaded Insert, 1-5/16" Diameter

91375A585
Alloy Steel Cup Point Set Screw, 5/16"-18 Thread, 1-1/4" Long


----------



## OregonKDS

Tagged


----------



## 92safari

My bad.. Heres the part number for the 5/16" knobs I usually get.
59625K72
Five-Arm Knob, Polypropylene, 5/16"-18 Threaded Insert, 2-1/4" Diameter


92safari said:


> http://www.mcmaster.com/
> 
> 59625K35
> Five-Arm Knob, Polypropylene, 1/4"-20 Threaded Insert, 1-5/16" Diameter
> 
> 59625K35
> Five-Arm Knob, Polypropylene, 1/4"-20 Threaded Insert, 1-5/16" Diameter
> 
> 91375A585
> Alloy Steel Cup Point Set Screw, 5/16"-18 Thread, 1-1/4" Long


----------



## Manny Oz

Some nice presses in here, just started to source the parts for mine. I looking at replacing the ACME rod with an ballscrew setup, would there be any issues with that? Also what would you guys reckon should be the max gap between the compression arm and main frame tube. Would be 1mm (1/25,4") ok?

Thanks for the help

Cheers Manny


----------



## 92safari

*Caution Bar/Drawtower*

Heres just the Caution Bar/Drawtower assembly by itself. It just slides onto the jack tube. Caution bar can be used alone or drop the Drawtower in and the Bow can be pressed and drawn at the same time.


----------



## dukeofwails

I Would like to upgrade to a handwheel on my press. I know I can buy one at grizzly.com but can somebody instruct me on how to make it work? I used a jack not a Acme rod.


----------



## 92safari

Should be able to get one with a 1/2" hole and set screw.


----------



## 92safari

Trying to get pics caught up. Just have to finish detailing the drawtower and draw shooter attachments I believe. 
Here is a shot of all the parts to assemble the press alone.


----------



## 92safari

Here are the parts for the adjustable caution bar/drawtower, and the draw/shooter attachments.


----------



## FairchildG1

So I want to build one of these, I like the thread all design as opposed to the jack design, where do I start. What recommendations can you give me to streamline the process 92safari?


----------



## 92safari

Everything builds around the main jack tube as a main platform. Everything else is a piece cake and slides onto the jack tube; so I'd start there. You can check my other threads for parts, kits, etc. To get you rollin.


----------



## FairchildG1

Okay. Let me get my research dialed up a notch. Thanks


----------



## mrchaos102

92, you have a lot of projects mixed in here. Can you start another thread CLEANED UP with out the extra projects and comments?
Current with your new changes and show from start to finish on how to build this?


----------



## 92safari

E pluribus unum... "out of many, one"...
The whole point of it is that it is one project that you can keep adding too, reararanging, experimenting on, etc., and still slide the original couple pieces back on and have the same simple press to go.
Unfortunately theres no control over managing the thread (strange imo..); so it gets a bit spread out sometimes.
I try to keep some relevent pics up to date even though I'm spread pretty thin wearing many hats here. The main part is the jack and main tube. On page 1 I shouw how to cap off the tube, cut apart jack and install the nut creating our "jack tube assembly". Everything else is simply sleeved and added to this jack tube.
The modular press was first shown on page 5, some assembly techniiques page 9, making sleeves page 13, coat hook assembly methods page 14, and started showing the add-ons page 25. I know I'm a bit behind with dimension details on the drawtower and shooter pieces, but have tried posting enough pics that it could be figured out. I'll try putting something together in a seperate file as far as start to finish assembly..


mrchaos102 said:


> 92, you have a lot of projects mixed in here. Can you start another thread CLEANED UP with out the extra projects and comments?
> Current with your new changes and show from start to finish on how to build this?


----------



## 92safari

One thing I do a bit differently on mine is I use .030 slickstrips as plastic shims instead of the fender washer method, but thats just one more way of doing it. All it does really is save the paint a little when sliding.


----------



## kpk

dukeofwails said:


> I Would like to upgrade to a handwheel on my press. I know I can buy one at grizzly.com but can somebody instruct me on how to make it work? I used a jack not a Acme rod.


I got a handwheel from mcmaster. It had a 1/2" hole to start with but no set screws or anything. I cross drilled a hole through the base on the handwheel that lined up with the hole in the acme rod that the jack originally used. (Measure 5 times and drill once and drill straight through one side. Then I fit it onto the acme screw to make positive it was lined up then drilled through all the way)

I never cared for the set screw personally. I thought if the set screw ever let go while a bow was pressed it would pull the press apart. I highly doubt it would ever happen but never know. I also extended the acme screw with a 1/2'' bolt and put a lock nut on the end after the handwheel was on for a failsafe.

I've been meaning to post pictures for awhile but I've been super busy lately.....maybe I'll get around to it in the next couple days.


----------



## 92safari

Excellent point 


kpk said:


> I got a handwheel from mcmaster. It had a 1/2" hole to start with but no set screws or anything. I cross drilled a hole through the base on the handwheel that lined up with the hole in the acme rod that the jack originally used. (Measure 5 times and drill once and drill straight through one side. Then I fit it onto the acme screw to make positive it was lined up then drilled through all the way)
> 
> I never cared for the set screw personally. I thought if the set screw ever let go while a bow was pressed it would pull the press apart. I highly doubt it would ever happen but never know. I also extended the acme screw with a 1/2'' bolt and put a lock nut on the end after the handwheel was on for a failsafe.
> 
> I've been meaning to post pictures for awhile but I've been super busy lately.....maybe I'll get around to it in the next couple days.


----------



## mrchaos102

ADDON:

On the Draw Board Attachment..... I have gone through this thread like 8 times. THIS MEANS what I am looking for must be here because I cant find it... I remember one project where a dude bought (and added a link to ebay) a heavy duty scale that was electronic and attached to an LED display (also bought from ebay with a link provided). He had this inserted at the top of the board between the arm and the pulley. This allowed you to do all the tuning AND get an accurate poundage of the bow at peak and let off.
...page number would be nice OR if you remember this and its in another thread a link would be nice.

Now that I have all my cut out pieces in 3 piles this project doenst look as bad as I thought it wold be.


----------



## mrchaos102

92safari said:


> One thing I do a bit differently on mine is I use .030 slickstrips as plastic shims instead of the fender washer method, but thats just one more way of doing it. All it does really is save the paint a little when sliding.


92 this is on the arm that goes in and out.... do you know on the project me and you are working on... can I add these?


----------



## BROWN STAR

Nice research skills you have there chaos.



mrchaos102 said:


> 92, you have a lot of projects mixed in here. Can you start another thread CLEANED UP with out the extra projects and comments?
> Current with your new changes and show from start to finish on how to build this?


----------



## 92safari

mrchaos102 said:


> 92 this is on the arm that goes in and out.... do you know on the project me and you are working on... can I add these?


yes. it can be used several places just to snog the fits and offer a smooth sliding surface. alot of guys just getting it off of amizon.easier too. you can stick it on after everything else is done.


----------



## mrchaos102

Reasearch skills need help.....what im truly looking for are the ebay links.


----------



## mrchaos102

DRY fit. Hanger assembly complete!

I well still need to take knobs off and cut threaded screws off later.


----------



## 92safari

almost got it.. the double actually goes on the outside of the sideplate mount so it can easily be flipped over by removing the center knob. single and all hair pins 'inside'; double 'outside'.


mrchaos102 said:


> DRY fit. Hanger assembly complete!
> 
> I well still need to take knobs off and cut threaded screws off later.


----------



## 92safari

Like so... Page 14 covers assemb;y. Pics show an inside double, but same assembly. Finger with threaded center hole is an inside (closest to press) finger. Finger with slot in center is an outside (closest to you) finger. This way just flip the outsides over as needed when dealing with drawstops.


----------



## mrchaos102

Like This then?

[


----------



## mrchaos102

Think the dbl side you ment like this.....


----------



## 92safari

Almost got it.. All 4 hair pins go inside the plates. Knox is all that holds the double on.


mrchaos102 said:


> Like This then?
> 
> [


----------



## 92safari

*Finger Assembly*

Okay; Here we go:
Step 1: put hair pins in the rods on squared ends...
Step 2: slide rods through backside of single finger..
Step 3: Put springs on rods..
Step 4: Put hairpins in tapered end of rods to retain springs..


----------



## 92safari

*Finger Assembly pt/2*

Step 5: Put a sideplate mount on each end of the pins...
Step 6: Add double finger to tapered end of rods on the outside of the sideplate mount..
Final step is to insert the threaded adjustment knob to complete the unit. The mounts will self square and spacing between mounts is 3".
Just remove the adjuster knob and flip the reversible fingers as needed for drawstops.


----------



## mkcop

Awesome information from everyone, I think I have as much time in reading this entire project as 92 has in designing and building Ha-Ha! Great work 92safari and everyone else, it is all of these responses that have educated me and helped me understand the build process. So I hope everyone keeps adding ideas, I have a couple things I will be adding to mine and I will share. Just hope my fairly new welding skills(if u can call it that for me) are up to the task. 

Might be a little bit as I'm just starting to scrounge up parts, coat racks enroute! Now I gotta learn how to use a press and do set ups and tuning... 
I'm going to do the caution bar since I finally figured out it isn't for keeping people away also going to add the draw board eventually. My question is, is the draw board only used for timing cams? Or is there other uses. Not to belittle the importance of timing, which I kind of understand but do not how to adjust that yet, but I will learn. Thanks guys, carry on!


----------



## ilbow404

Tagged


----------



## Flivver90

Here's mine. Paint was what I had at home. Thought it was pretty homely at first, but with the stickers...meh...Not so bad


----------



## 92safari

Sweeet!! I like the paint 
Look back a few posts at finger assembly order and you'll like the doubles outside the mount plate so it can easily be flipped if need be plus added span adjustment..
Great job!!


----------



## zachbb42

can one of these take a dominator completely down


----------



## 92safari

zachbb42 said:


> can one of these take a dominator completely down


Sure... 10" will relax about any bow; The jackscrew here gives 15" travel. You can make the inner tube as long or short as you like and the arm just slides back and forth.


----------



## Emitto

New to this AWESOME thread and in need of a press. My question, is the complete sets to build one still available to purchase? I understand i will have to purchase the jack separately.
Thank you in advance.
Emitto.


----------



## 92safari

Sent pm.. bit easier


----------



## 92safari

*Draw/Shooter*

Figured I'd detail the 2 attachments making up the Draw/Shooter option since it's the easiest. All it takes is 1 of the same 4" x 1 3/4" 14 guage sleeves we use on about everything; and a 5 1/2" piece of 3/16" plate. This is for the winch mount that slides on in place of the right side finger assembly. Winch bolt patterns are pretty standard so; Just find center on the plate, come in 3/4" from each end and drill 3/8" holes for mounting bolts. Now just center and square the plate ontop of the sleeve and thats it as far as the removeable winch mount.


----------



## 92safari

*Draw/Shooter/Bow Pivot*

Now for the pivot end on the tail piece. We just use one of the same 1 1/2" x 9" sq. tubes that we used for the arm tail piece; A 3 1/2" piece of 1 3/4" sq. tube from left overs; And a 5/8" x 7" nut and bolt. We'll drill a 5/8" hole on the outside and weld a nut to the back of the tube on the inside. This works out pretty well considering that we'll need about a 3" difference in height with the winch in order to draw the bow straight and parallel with the press. You can then get as fancy with the pivot as you want. A piece of rubber hose and some velcro straps? A polyurethane roller and twist tie downs? Cut a nice leather straps? Whatever you like since now you have a pivot point to work with. I do have a simple idea for a little bow bumper to keep the bow from wanting to rotate to far forward after a shot.
You really get a good view of the bow at full draw by standing behind it and seeing how the cams, limbs, and riser are all working (or not) together; You can see if your nock is traveling squarely even at full draw (that's where timing is important). If nothing else at all; It gives you 1 more tool/device to aid in gathering useful information about your equipment and dynamics of the shot that you can't get just by shooting the bow.


----------



## 92safari

*Pt. 2*

more pics


----------



## 92safari

Running a deal in classifieds this weekend....
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1743629&page=23

Last of the add ons for now is the Drawtower that slides into the caution bar upright support. Pics and details in following post:


----------



## BW321

tagged


----------



## b_man

Getting ready to start my press and can't find the 1.5" nestable tubing at McMaster Carr. The sizes start at 1.75". Am I over looking it or do they not have it now?


----------



## Dylanr77

Awesome looking press! I been wanting to build one!


----------



## 92safari

Check out the classifieds for a kit to save a lot of time.. and you'll be done before you know it.


----------



## Sedgefields

b_man said:


> Getting ready to start my press and can't find the 1.5" nestable tubing at McMaster Carr. The sizes start at 1.75". Am I over looking it or do they not have it now?


I ordered mine two days ago and they didn't have it. I just went to the 1 3/4" and 2" nest able. Just one size up from what everyone here is doing


----------



## b_man

Sedgefields said:


> I ordered mine two days ago and they didn't have it. I just went to the 1 3/4" and 2" nest able. Just one size up from what everyone here is doing


I'm going to do that or just get the nestable 1.75" and 2" then a regular 1.5" to slip inside the 1.75". Only reason for all three sizes is I want the arm on the body end to be adjustable.


----------



## n.vodden

Just got some of the drawboard winch attachments off 92safari. Really pleased with them, will make setting my bows up a piece of cake!


----------



## scott cr1 pro

Nice Press n.vodden.
Been looking at sourcing a jack for this in the UK.
Any help you may be able to give in pointing me in the right direction would be appreciated.


----------



## Moon

Very nice work there :thumbs_up In reality, the average guy without some fabricating experience and tools could not not build one. I purchased this home built press from a friend that built it at his workplace Not much to look at but it works like a charm for compound crossbows. It's powder coated. It's basically a copy of a production version, I don't remember the brand. I paid $140.00 for it, which I thought was a steal I also use it for stretching strings for center serving work. Also works great with friends' verticals.


----------



## 92safari

Nice.. 
Heck ya you got a good deal. Looks sturdy.. and seems to do everything you need..


Moon said:


> Very nice work there :thumbs_up In reality, the average guy without some fabricating experience and tools could not not build one. I purchased this home built press from a friend that built it at his workplace Not much to look at but it works like a charm for compound crossbows. It's powder coated. It's basically a copy of a production version, I don't remember the brand. I paid $140.00 for it, which I thought was a steal I also use it for stretching strings for center serving work. Also works great with friends' verticals.


----------



## scott cr1 pro

Has anyone made one of these presses in the UK.
I am struggling to find an appropriate jack for the donor parts. I want to get that sorted before i start purchasing the steel.
Many thanks for your help.


----------



## murinus

Maybe try amazon.co.uk?


----------



## 92safari

scott cr1 pro said:


> Has anyone made one of these presses in the UK.
> I am struggling to find an appropriate jack for the donor parts. I want to get that sorted before i start purchasing the steel.
> Many thanks for your help.


I think around page 19 a guy in portugal had same trouble. Might find something useful there. Over seas shipping is constantly going up but if I can help with the tough to do stuff; let me know.


----------



## jadkins223

Would a piece of all thread and all thread nuts and also a set of bearings not work just as well as the acme from the jack?


----------



## 92safari

It would work for awhile until the threads got worn. Regular pipe thread on mild steel (a bolt) isn't the same as an ACME Rod & Nut (worm gear)


jadkins223 said:


> Would a piece of all thread and all thread nuts and also a set of bearings not work just as well as the acme from the jack?


----------



## jadkins223

Thanks 92...

Would anyone be willing to provide me with some rough dimensions of the hangar assemblies? Just the pieces that need to be cut out (the fingers) .

I work at a place that has a cutter and the guys said they would cut me some out if I can get them something drew up. Any help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## jadkins223

Also what are the downsides to just modifying a square jack instead of stripping down a jack? Just trying to gather as much info as possible before I start mine


----------



## 92safari

No downside really. Just another optional way to go. The hanger assemblies are adaptable to a variety of set ups since the are pretty much self squaring units that just sit ontop; or bottom for that matter; of a piece of square tube. I've seen guys modify a square jack with extensions and either typical short side arms, or long vertical arms. Different means to same end. I like looking at my modular set up like and erector set where I can keep same basic platform, and then add or subtract various sub-assemblies to try different things and still be able to go back to my original press set up anytime I want. If I'm home; I want the whole press/draw/shooter setup. If I'm going away; then I only need the press and maybe the caution bar; to calapse and take with me.


jadkins223 said:


> Also what are the downsides to just modifying a square jack instead of stripping down a jack? Just trying to gather as much info as possible before I start mine


----------



## 00juice

Almost done with mine. Second set of fingers are still being painted. Now I'm starting the base. Plan to make a base that clamps to a table or slide into a receiver hitch on my truck.


----------



## 92safari

Nice!! 
Funny; I'm building a few now with bolt on legs similar to yours. A little cheaper and easier to ship..lol Nice job. It's looking great!! Only thing I see is your inside hair pins should be on the inside of the mount plate.


00juice said:


> Almost done with mine. Second set of fingers are still being painted. Now I'm starting the base. Plan to make a base that clamps to a table or slide into a receiver hitch on my truck.


----------



## helim83

Marked


----------



## 92safari

By shortening the main body tube and leaving the inner tube long; the simple bench style press can go short enough for the compound xbows as well as long enough tho press vertical bows.


----------



## LazyEye08

tag


----------



## Gobblergetter23

92, I was looking at building the caution bar we talked about...I think I am going to use perforated square tubing, That will slide up and down with pins that I can put in the perforations to change for shorter or longer bows... Any thoughts?


----------



## 92safari

Gobblergetter23 said:


> 92, I was looking at building the caution bar we talked about...I think I am going to use perforated square tubing, That will slide up and down with pins that I can put in the perforations to change for shorter or longer bows... Any thoughts?


Seems as it would have pretty much the same effect. Just may not be as versatile on pin placement, but as long as it adjusts up and down; then it won't matter much.


----------



## Ob1.25

What type of paint holds up best?


----------



## Gobblergetter23

92safari said:


> Seems as it would have pretty much the same effect. Just may not be as versatile on pin placement, but as long as it adjusts up and down; then it won't matter much.


My thinking exactly! Illl Get it put on and see how it works and let everybody know this may be a good option?


----------



## Gobblergetter23

Ob1.25 said:


> What type of paint holds up best?


I used dupont automotive paint with a good self etching primer, key is to get your surface prepped and cleaned


----------



## Hoytboy2

Tagged
This looks like a great design. I already have the fingers programmed up in the mazak.


----------



## jameson305

Here's mine. Thanks to Bill


----------



## jameson305

Ob1.25 said:


> What type of paint holds up best?


Rustoleum hammered paint and primer in one. I had a lot of comments on the paint. Hands down the best looking paint I've used


----------



## bmk1

I built a press using 92Safari's finger and it has worked great on all my bows but I just bought a Bowtech Experience and I am a little nervous to press it because the fingers are on the narrow side and I am afraid of them slipping of the bearing housing. Anyone pressing Bowtech binary cam bows with these fingers and have any suggestions? 
Thanks


----------



## MPKO

You should not press bowtech from the bearing housing. This my understanding how BT itself is recommending.


----------



## bmk1

MPKO said:


> You should not press bowtech from the bearing housing. This my understanding how BT itself is recommending.


I watched one of the bowtech videos on tuning the binary cams and they were using a ezpress and they were pressing at the limb tips where the housings are.


Here it is
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_ykwt29yFQ


----------



## MPKO

I don't know what bow it was in the video. In carbon overdrive it looks like this and I personally press it under bearing housing.


----------



## imbucky26

ttt


----------



## dandeployed

Just an fyi for guys thinking about building this. Enco has acme rods and nuts on sale really cheap right now. Yesterday, I bought enough acme rod and nuts to build 4 of these presses for only $31 and I found a promo code for free shipping. I think its a smoking deal!

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMPI?PMPANO=0735620&PMKBNO=3496&PMPAGE=61&PMCTLG=01


----------



## Unk Bond

dandeployed said:


> Just an fyi for guys thinking about building this. Enco has acme rods and nuts on sale really cheap right now. Yesterday, I bought enough acme rod and nuts to build 4 of these presses for only $31 and I found a promo code for free shipping. I think its a smoking deal!
> 
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMPI?PMPANO=0735620&PMKBNO=3496&PMPAGE=61&PMCTLG=01


=======
Hello
Nice find. Thanks for the link.
What size and rod length did you buy. Thanks later


----------



## dandeployed

Unk Bond said:


> =======
> Hello
> Nice find. Thanks for the link.
> What size and rod length did you buy. Thanks later


I got 2 3ft pcs of ACME 3/4-6 and 4 nuts. Probably ALOT beefier than needed, but for the price I couldn't find a reason not to.


----------



## jcazarcherydad

That enco free shipping code orders over $25


----------



## Unk Bond

jcazarcherydad said:


> That enco free shipping code orders over $25
> View attachment 2126053


=============
Hello
Thanks for your info.


----------



## jcazarcherydad

The main link to enco is
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRHM
800-USE-ENCO (800-873-3626)


----------



## bmk1

MPKO said:


> I don't know what bow it was in the video. In carbon overdrive it looks like this and I personally press it under bearing housing.


The bow in the video is a Experience.


----------



## imbucky26

I am building a Ryobi Shooter and was looking into attaching a inline press to it, stumbled onto this post so I figured I would throw this out there?
I was looking on where and how to get the fingers?
Actually does anyone want to sell theirs?
Thanks Boys!
Bucky


----------



## boonecoon

imbucky26 said:


> I am building a Ryobi Shooter and was looking into attaching a inline press to it, stumbled onto this post so I figured I would throw this out there?
> I was looking on where and how to get the fingers?
> Actually does anyone want to sell theirs?
> Thanks Boys!
> Bucky


Just food for thought,I had the same idea but I kept my inline and saw table draw board separate so I can keep them more mobile, trying to keep the weight down. My buddies dad is a wiz of a machinist and built my fingers from scratch, no drawings


----------



## CantCMe

I have a online press that I got the plans from one of these threads that is about 85% complete. It's set up to be a draw board as well. My friend that had been doing the welding on it for me had since moved and I don't know how to weld, or have access to powder coating. So I gave up and just bought an Ez press. So I am looking to unload this one if anybody is interested. I am $175 in parts into it but would let it go for $150.

Yea it does have the fingers and those I have painted and dipped already and I have used the press on multiple bows, it just needs some final touches to it.

Let me know if you are interested


----------



## surge45

Awesome!!!


----------



## bmk1

I bought mine from 92safari I am not sure but I think he is still making and selling them.


----------



## imbucky26

CantCMe said:


> I have a online press that I got the plans from one of these threads that is about 85% complete. It's set up to be a draw board as well. My friend that had been doing the welding on it for me had since moved and I don't know how to weld, or have access to powder coating. So I gave up and just bought an Ez press. So I am looking to unload this one if anybody is interested. I am $175 in parts into it but would let it go for $150.
> 
> Yea it does have the fingers and those I have painted and dipped already and I have used the press on multiple bows, it just needs some final touches to it.
> 
> Let me know if you are interested


I'm interested. , please PM me


----------



## imbucky26

*PM sent*



CantCMe said:


> I have a online press that I got the plans from one of these threads that is about 85% complete. It's set up to be a draw board as well. My friend that had been doing the welding on it for me had since moved and I don't know how to weld, or have access to powder coating. So I gave up and just bought an Ez press. So I am looking to unload this one if anybody is interested. I am $175 in parts into it but would let it go for $150.
> 
> Yea it does have the fingers and those I have painted and dipped already and I have used the press on multiple bows, it just needs some final touches to it.
> 
> Let me know if you are interested


PM sent!


----------



## CantCMe

I'm trying to post pics in the thread but it only lets me do te quick reply option


----------



## CantCMe




----------



## CantCMe

So it will press a bow I have done it multiple times. It has 2 thrust bearings on it. One inside the tube and one outside, this is for the draw board. The crossbar for the fingers needs to be secured and then the fingers need to be drilled and tapped for the adjuster screws on the back


----------



## 92safari

Nice, but limb stops may be a bit short to catch the limbs on some bows. Looks good though


----------



## 92safari

bmk1 said:


> I bought mine from 92safari I am not sure but I think he is still making and selling them.


mmmmm... could be...


----------



## jstoll

Pm sent


----------



## Clayslayer

bumping to save thread.


----------



## RobColella

Finally got all the parts sourced and ready to go. Took a small box of cut metal parts, 5/8" acme rod, and hand wheel to the machine shop today to be milled and welded. I'll post pictures before finishing. 

A special thank you goes out to Safari 92 and Gunner 7800 for all their guidance, generosity, and answering all my "annoying" numerous questions. 

As a way of giving back to all and sharing what I have learned along the way. I will post the PDF drawings I gave to the machine shop that are nothing more than a compilation and adaptation of plans here on AT. They are no way mine, but rather versions of everyone's presses.


----------



## RobColella

PDF files are too large to post. If you'd like a copy, just PM me your email address and I'll email them to you.


----------



## RobColella

All the preliminary welding is complete. Just need to attach the threaded acme rod to the hand wheel, apply the powdercoat and plastic dip the fingers. Getting closer,but not quite done. More to come.


----------



## bwhntr7973

tagged


----------



## RobColella

*Powder Coat Finish/Partial Assembly*

For those seeking more details and/or those wanting to compare plans with pictures here you go.








Overall View








Left Finger Assembly (Removable)








Right Finger Assembly








Flange Plate/Flange Bearing 5/8", 8" Dia. Hand wheel. The flange bearing is temporarily attached with long bolts and is not tightened down to the plate, hence the perceived gap which is not there upon tightening appropriately. The plate is 1/4" thick.








2" Long, 1 1/2" Square Tubing w/nut of choice

If you have any questions or would like additional pictures, just PM me and I'll see what I can do to help. I'm pretty sure with plans and pics this project should be fairly easy for most to accomplish.


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello All
Very nice. [ Later


----------



## Shootn'Freak

PM sent


----------



## 92safari

Pm sent to who??


Shootn'Freak said:


> PM sent


----------



## Shootn'Freak

Should be you!


----------



## bcbassking

92 I sent you a pm


----------



## Shootn'Freak

My pm's don't seem to be going through

[email protected]


----------



## 92safari

Okay.. Did everyone that sent a pm get a reply??


----------



## Marc da hunter

You guys are great


----------



## ianblank123

Tagged


----------



## BowBaker1640

what is the best coating to use on the hangers? the last time I used that plasti dip years ago I didn't have very good luck with it. thanks


----------



## jameson305

I'm using plasti dip. Works best if you put a coat of paint on first then 4-5 coats of plasti dip that you dip and not the spray


----------



## BowBaker1640

are you finding it durable enough? that's the issue I had the last time I used it. it just didn't have any durability


----------



## huntnutsbro

Pm sent 92safari.


----------



## jameson305

BowBaker1640 said:


> are you finding it durable enough? that's the issue I had the last time I used it. it just didn't have any durability


Very durable, I haven't had any trouble


----------



## BowBaker1640

now are you talking about the stuff that can be bought at home depot? or is there a better one that you buy somewhere else? thanks


----------



## huntnutsbro

This look good for fingers on an inline press for an xforce bow?
It is 4.5 inches from center of bolt hole to the corner of the finger at top. Think I will have 4 made and see how it goes. Will be laser cut outta 3/8 plate. What do you guya think?


----------



## jameson305

BowBaker1640 said:


> now are you talking about the stuff that can be bought at home depot? or is there a better one that you buy somewhere else? thanks


----------



## 92safari

The thing about plastidip is to allow at least 2 or 3 hours between coats and then let them cure for at least 3 or 4 days to get good and stiff. if its rushed; it will be too soft and not as durable. Thats what takes the most time when building my presses. I always try to build ahead, but being a one man band none of them last long enough to get ahead lol.. a lot of guys get impatient and want things now, but I won't ship anymore until I know the dip is cured. I have yet to wear out my own; so if allowed to cure good it is quite durable.


----------



## 92safari

huntnutsbro said:


> This look good for fingers on an inline press for an xforce bow?
> It is 4.5 inches from center of bolt hole to the corner of the finger at top. Think I will have 4 made and see how it goes. Will be laser cut outta 3/8 plate. What do you guya think?


Radius looks a little tight which could end up making the limb stop ineffective; especially on preloaded limbs.


----------



## jameson305

Another tip with the plasti dip is after you dip use a hair dryer or heat gun for about 30 sec. to cure it in place. At least that seems to work good for me. Positioning the hanger perfect for the drying process can be tricky. I dry with the hanger in the upright position.


----------



## huntnutsbro

92safari said:


> Radius looks a little tight which could end up making the limb stop ineffective; especially on preloaded limbs.


So take a lil off the bulge on the front? Or tilt the tip out and down some?


----------



## 92safari

A little of both. I believe I use a 3 7/8" radius on the face. Xforces aren't bad, but the Bears come over the top more than others. This is where the adjustable caution bar is handy for raising up or down controlling the point of contact. If you're planning on pressing your PSE's; hold your drawing up to your limb tips and see what you got.


----------



## 92safari

Posting these for JacobH since he did such a nice paint job on his unfinished bench version... Nice job Jake:wink:


----------



## 92safari

One quick note Jacob; Flip your dowl pins around so taper end is facing you and keep all 4 hair pins inside the mounts, and then your double goes outside the mount and is held in place by the adjuster knob only. That way you just remove the knob when you want to flip the finger.


----------



## BowBaker1640

I like that color red! nice job


92safari said:


> Posting these for JacobH since he did such a nice paint job on his unfinished bench version... Nice job Jake:wink:


----------



## RobColella

Jacob,

The "red" color looks great. Great job. You'll enjoy it for a long time.


----------



## Kaizoku

RobColella said:


> Jacob,
> 
> The "red" color looks great. Great job. You'll enjoy it for a long time.


Except he has it posted up for sale in the archery tool section of the classifieds. Lol.


----------



## Welpracing

lots of awesome builds on here!!


----------



## Welpracing

92safari- I have been looking through most of this thread and notice you are the guy to talk to on building one. my question is do you make and sell the finger kits(coat hangers) or do you have the dimensions for us to get some made at a machine shop or build ourselves? pm me if you will because I am interested in building one or 2 with a friend. Thanks


----------



## 92safari

Sent pm with info...


Welpracing said:


> 92safari- I have been looking through most of this thread and notice you are the guy to talk to on building one. my question is do you make and sell the finger kits(coat hangers) or do you have the dimensions for us to get some made at a machine shop or build ourselves? pm me if you will because I am interested in building one or 2 with a friend. Thanks


----------



## jljjdye

Finally got around to throwing this together. Not sure what kind of mount or legs I'm gonna use. Just about ready for paint.


----------



## 92safari

jljjdye said:


> View attachment 2177100
> View attachment 2177101
> View attachment 2177104
> Finally got around to throwing this together. Not sure what kind of mount or legs I'm gonna use. Just about ready for paint.


Very nice :wink: Now this is the point where I like to use a sleeve or something for use with your mounting choice. Then you can always switch things around from various mounts, swivels, hitch mounts. etc. without having to alter the press itself; so it remains as versatile as possible down the road..


----------



## rsteveryan

I am also interested in hangers. That is the only thing that has stopped me from building this press.


----------



## Armyof1

ok guys anyone actualy have a set of prints to build one of these bow press . i am gonna have to have someone else build it for me as i dont have all the tools required to do it my self.


----------



## 92safari

Sent ya a pm..


----------



## 92safari

Reposting some of the basic dimensions since I don't recall which page they were on. Could go 6 1/2" for the arms if desired.


----------



## 92safari

The adjustable caution bar again.. The vertical is 1 1/4" tube at 10 3/4" long attached to a 1 3/4" by 4" sleeve.


----------



## 92safari

6" pins on the caution bar.


----------



## Armyof1

thanks and by the way that looks great


----------



## Armyof1

well went looking for the materials to start to build one of these today and i couldnt find anything i needed to get started . went to lowes and to menards and they didnt have anything that is needed to build one. being a disabled vet sucks (no money)


----------



## Gobblergetter23

For those of you that have had trouble finding plasti dip for the fingers.... I have had really
Good luck with liquid electric tape


----------



## rsteveryan

So I have my press built including caution bar and draw shooter, thanks Bill. While waiting on hangers I would like to complete the draw tower but see no instructions here. I set up the caution bar with the 10 3/4 vertical 1 1/4 square tubing. I believe Bill mentioned that he was going to use 1" square out of that vertical. So how tall should the tower be? How is the pin at the bottom of the 10 3/4 utilized? Is it just a stop or do you pin the tower in?


----------



## 92safari

The bolt can be used either way as a stop or a connecting bolt going through the hole in bottom of the tower. Total length is 58" allowing for up to 33"+ draw length. I make them telescopic with several positioning holes since most common draw lengths are closer to 27" or so and at times ceiling clearance may be an issue. I'll have to check on the lengths of the two pieces I use for sure. I use a piece of 1" tube for bottom and 1 1/4" for upper. There's also a bow pivot piece that slides between the press and upper piece as well. I'm away at the moment. I'll get some pics and dimensions together when I get back as I know I haven't posted the tower info yet.


----------



## rsteveryan

Thanks Bill. I can't believe what an easy build this was. I completed the press and caution bar in a day and a half. Why did I wait so long to build one of these? It will probably take me longer to paint and dip than it did to build it. When I get my hangers what size square tubing do they mate up to? 1 1/4", 1 1/2", or 1 3/4". I would like to make them modular by mounting them to a 4" × 1 3/4" square tube and slip them onto my 1 1/2 arms.


----------



## 92safari

They are self aligning so they'll fit any of those tube sizes. 13/4" sleeves will be fine. Yea.. the dipping, painting, drying and curing time takes awhile especially in colder temps. Give the rubber 3-4 days to cure.. almost out of fingers again if you haven't got that far yet.. nice job


----------



## rsteveryan

I sent payment on the 10th.


----------



## 92safari

Lol.. all good then.. have fun. When you get them just be sure to allow enough time for dip to cure.


----------



## Marc da hunter

Marking for later


----------



## K2man

rsteveryan said:


> It will probably take me longer to paint and dip than it did to build it.


You got that right. Mine has been built for nearly a year and my coat hangers have electrical tape and it's still all unpainted! But it works great.


----------



## Armyof1

lol


----------



## TRUE HUNT

Looking for some of those double sided coat hangers. Can anyone help me. Thanks for your time


----------



## buckwild13

finished mine just waiting on the handle for the hand wheel and then its getting powder coated


----------



## 92safari

Nice  Looking fwd. to seeing it powder coated.
Anybody else got some Pics to share??


----------



## gte901m

I still need to paint it, but you get the idea...


----------



## 92safari

Sweet


----------



## wheels3563

Like


----------



## shootenbulls

Ttt


----------



## Binary cam man

Your modular inline press is brilliant. I personally have not scene anything better. Everything can be removed easily. Add ons not a problem. Updates not a problem. One press for everything, forever. If anybody is building one of these, build it to the T! Any upgrades won't be a problem. And if you think about it, the price is right on. And Bill is a great guy to deal with, by far. This is my review. Thanks Bill.


----------



## rriley81

Where can I get a set of these hangars?


----------



## rriley81

Where do I get fingers to build this press and how much?


----------



## Binary cam man

rriley81 said:


> Where do I get fingers to build this press and how much?


92safari PM HIM.


----------



## bubba g

I'm interested in the coat hangers... Tried to send pm, but I'm not sure they are going through... I see nothing in my sent folder... 

Please drop me apm 92safari


----------



## newbowthunder

Anyone know what post #
Has info on building a modular press?


----------



## 92safari

You can start around page 32


----------



## 92safari

Ok.. I've had a lot of questions about exactly how all the parts go together on the whole set up; so I've got 53 pics to post step by step. Obviously theres several ways to configure the modular press, but these will cover the basic set up.. I also have several packages to ship first today since these guys have been patiently waiting while I took the time to do pics and notes.. I'll post the pics after I take care of shipping.
I'll start with one just showing everything layed out which I guess does look a little daunting at first glance..lol


----------



## 92safari

*Press assembly - Adjustable Caution Bar*

It's really pretty simple once you start sorting out the sub assemblies.. Heres a pic of the finished assembly to start with. 
Now we just start matching up some parts. We'll start with the adjustable caution bar assembly. It consists of the caution bar, 4 sliding sleeves, 4; 1/2" riser pins, and the vertical bar which also serves as the receiver base for the draw tower assembly. The pins are screwed into the 4 sliding sleeves, and act as individual set screws to secure their position any where along the span of the horizontal bar.. any 5/16" welded nut will get and lever, knob, or bolt.. Then the vertical bar drops into the sleeve on the caution bar to complete the Adjustable Caution Bar sub-assembly.
Ounce that's done; set it aside and we'll grab something else.


----------



## 92safari

*Draw Tower Assembly*

Now we'll put the vertical Draw Tower assembly together..
This consists of: the telescopic Tower, the sliding bow Pivot, and the Hoist and sliding boom arm. This complete assembly just drops into the vertical bar of the Adjustable Caution Bar Assembly. So that vertical bar is a commonly shared piece between the Caution Bar and the Draw Tower. Each can be used independantly of one another but will share the vertical bar.
First off screw the 1/2" bow Pivot pin into the sliding bow pivot body, then add your lever or knob and slide this assembly onto the Draw Tower with Pin pointing in the same direction as the Hoist sleeve on the top of the Tower. Now slide the Hoist and Boom into the sleeve at the top of the tower. Only really need a bolt set screw on the boom since its rarely moved, but you can go all out with knobs too if you want to, but it's a lot of them..lol The tower has a number of through holes using a bolt/pin to secure a particular height. It's stands 58" and is long enough to draw a 33" DL.. Here you can get as fancy as you want too if you wanted to opt for hitch pins, etc.
The nut on the backside of the tower is just there to be handy. A bolt or knob is fine. I just use it to snug the tower here and there when adjusting the through bolts/pins, etc.
Now set that aside too..


----------



## 92safari

*Draw/Shooter Mounts*

The Draw/Shooter attachments are pretty easy to set up. This consists of : the sliding Tail Piece bow pivot, and the Winch Mount which interchange with the removable finger assemblies. Put the 2 knobs or levers on the Sliding Tail Piece, and I like to use a bit longer lever on the Winch Mount just for nice finger room as compared to a knob.. By using a through hole for the Pivot Pin and 2 nuts (1 inside the tube and 1 outside); The Draw /Shooter Assembly and Press Assembly can be reversed and used Right or Left handed.You can use any standard sized winch and set it up as either a simple and secure Horizontal Draw Board attachment, or as a shooter... You can always dress up the Pivot side too using roller, grips, etc. if you want to. Thats pretty much all there is to those...


----------



## 92safari

*Arms, Legs, & Feet*

Now the Sliding Tail Piece that just needs the 2 knobs, or levers, the sliding arm that has 1 knob, or lever, and the 2 legs & feet and their knobs, or levers. The feet can be configured several ways to be bench mounted, edge mounted, free standing, etc. The legs can also be mounted however you like. Bench style, wall mount, under shelf, etc. Right or left is up to you. I like the height adjustment knobs on the outside myself because I usually have my Caution bar/Draw Tower slid all the way over against the leg. We can also bolt the Crank Lever onto the end of the ACME screw in the Central Jack Tube.


----------



## 92safari

*Press Platform*

Now we can start actually assembling the Press Platform. If primarily pressing vertical bows; I put my Sliding Arm on the Jack Tube first and then a leg. I like to leave 3-4 inches of the jack tube past the Arm and slide the leg up to the arm and snug the leg in place there. This way when taking bow in and out of the press you can simply reach right in front of you and slide the arm over to release the bow, tinker, and put it right back in the press sliding the arm back in place to press again. If I will be pressing both vertical bows and crossbows; then I put a leg on first and the Sliding Arm next. This way the Arm can be slid over for as short of an ATA as you need.
Next on the Jack Tube is the Vertical bar for the Caution Bar/Draw Tower Assembly and then the other leg. I usually snug the leg down at the end of the Jack Tubes outer sleeve and the slide the Vertical Bar over to it and snug it down there. You can always move it around as you need, but this is what I look at as the center of my work staion and I slide everything in or out to it as needed. Lastly is the Sliding Tail Piece which can be flipped around for right or left handed use or used in reverse to shorten the minimum span of the press by several more inches if needed..


----------



## 92safari

*Removeable Finger Assemblies*

Now the Removeable Finger Assemblies. I know I've posted several times now how to assemble these, but here it is once again. Easiest way to remember is that all 4 hair pins go on the inside of the mounts. You will have 1 finger with a threaded center hole that is mounted inside the mounts and 1 double finger that just slides onto the exposed pin ends on the outside of the mounts so you can just remove the center knob and flip the finger over as needed for drawstops. Here are some step by step pics, but all the written instructions are just a page or 2 back from here.


----------



## 92safari

*Draw Tower Assembly*

Now adding the Draw Tower Assembly is easy too. Just drop it into the vertical bar of the Caution Bar Assembly so the Hoist and Bow Pivot hang out over the press. At the base of the Vertical Bar theres a through bolt used either as a stop for the Draw Tower, or used to pass through both and secure the 2 assemblies together. Here you could us hitch pins as well for quick release set up. Same with the Towers Height Pin.
That's about it to setting everything up. Everything is pretty much independent; so you don't have to use everything at once, but nice to know you can, and without a bag full of loose parts to keep track of 
Things constantly evolve on this, but that was the whole point of having a press that can evolve instead of becoming obsolete everytime a bow manufacturer puts out another weird design.. I've already noted a few little things I'd adjust or change a bit, but I know I won't have to cut up my press or dump it and start over to do it


----------



## Jeremiah80

Missing a part please call me


----------



## Jeremiah80

Thanks bill your press is awesome and I haven't even used yet lol . It will though


----------



## newbowthunder

Any body know where to buy the slick strips.
I have some play between the press


----------



## 92safari

You can glue in some credit card stock, hobby plastics,or slicks trip off amazon..


----------



## newbowthunder

How thick are the slick strips?


----------



## 92safari

Generally .030". The slop will be roughly .060 all together. You can usually do well with a piece of .060 on the top inside and front inside, or .030 on 3 sides. If you can find .025 plastic; that does very well too allowing just a bit of play for easier sliding.


----------



## newbowthunder

I'll start looking tonight.


----------



## 92safari

Guys always ask about pressing Bowtechs' with their pillow blocks ; so I figured I'd put up some pics and fine tune the yoke on this Bowtech Experience so people could see that it's no big deal at all. The pillow blocks fit perfectly into the fingers and no need for a caution bar because the bow is locked in. 5 minutes of tinkering and yokes are perfect.. Thats where all the slide adjustments really shine. Most presses you'd spend 5 minutes just cranking out the press.
Next I'm going to put my Barnett Predator crossbow in the press so I can reserve my string. Shines here too since switching from a preloaded vertical bow with pillow blocks to a short ata compound crossbow takes about 3 seconds...lol


----------



## 92safari

Here are some more predator pics. On these rubber coated limbs you have to be sure that your press only puts pressure on the steel ball heads on the backside of the limbs.. Since we have a radiussed face on our fingers; thats no sweat either. 
Now theres a lot of good presses out there, but I don't know of one that can calapse, reconfigure, go from long bow to crossbow in seconds, draw the bow in the press to sync cams, and be set up to draw and shoot the bow as well. Plus you can take it and set up anywhere you want.. any way you want.


----------



## 92safari

Anyone else got some pics?? Always good seeing various bows in the press and any personal touches..


----------



## Bazhenov

Friends, this finger can disassemble and assemble RPM 360 ?


----------



## deerbum

Bazhenov said:


> Friends, this finger can disassemble and assemble RPM 360 ?
> 
> View attachment 2223189


Here is a photo of my RPM in a similar style finger. Your design has shorter fingers but would certainly work.
naslazhdat'sya


----------



## robbyreneeward

In for later


----------



## ClintR

I've tried searching through this thread and haven't had any luck but....

I'm curious what it takes to replace the crank handle with a wheel similar to this: https://www.grizzly.com/products/Cast-Iron-Handwheel-6-/H3189

If I have to do any thread tapping I'm not going to bother. Thanks.


----------



## 92safari

I'd drill a good pocket dimple in the shaft if using a set screw on the wheel, or drill through entirely inserting a hardened pin so you had a good anchor. Other threads use a piece of rod and extra nut as a jam. Just want to be sure the screw is anchored well since the pressure is trying to pull the rod out of the wheel.


ClintRhodes said:


> I've tried searching through this thread and haven't had any luck but....
> 
> I'm curious what it takes to replace the crank handle with a wheel similar to this: https://www.grizzly.com/products/Cast-Iron-Handwheel-6-/H3189
> 
> If I have to do any thread tapping I'm not going to bother. Thanks.


----------



## ClintR

92safari said:


> I'd drill a good pocket dimple in the shaft if using a set screw on the wheel, or drill through entirely inserting a hardened pin so you had a good anchor. Other threads use a piece of rod and extra nut as a jam. Just want to be sure the screw is anchored well since the pressure is trying to pull the rod out of the wheel.


Isn't there already a hole drilled thru for the existing handle? Or are you suggesting the hole in the wheel won't line up with the hole in the rod?


----------



## 92safari

Anythings possible..lol, but the existing hole is right at the end of the rod; so just have to see how things will work out with the wheel you have. I just like a definite hard anchor point.


ClintRhodes said:


> Isn't there already a hole drilled thru for the existing handle? Or are you suggesting the hole in the wheel won't line up with the hole in the rod?


----------



## ClintR

92safari said:


> Anythings possible..lol, but the existing hole is right at the end of the rod; so just have to see how things will work out with the wheel you have. I just like a definite hard anchor point.


I see what you're saying. I don't have a drill press so I have no way of getting a new hole in there. I probably won't waste my time with it. I would prefer the wheel, but the existing handle works.


----------



## 92safari

Check with this fella. He put one on his and posted a little video on youtube. He'd probably help you out. turbschmidt ..
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2458127
http://youtu.be/67X7NKlV5QI


----------



## 92safari

You guys that are using the whole 9 yd. set up auwght to post some pics and give you feedback on how it all is working out for you. Maybe we could find a few tweaks to make here or there. One thing I'm contemplating is switching the draw tower bow pivot so it can be used on the right or left side of the tower so bow can be put in either way for convenience. Another thing I may try is adding a couple inches to the legs and caution bar vertical tube just for a bit more room. I like sleeves on both ends so the press can be set up both right and left handed and tail piece can be reversed to shorten the total span by even a few more inches keeping your central work area towards the crank end of the press; also convenient. Once initially set up to press; I don't mess with the tail piece again. I just keep sliding the right hand finger assembly out of the way to the right when going back and forth pressing bow.. Much , much faster and eliminates reaching. I kinda like the little $20 tie down winch on ebay for the draw/shooter attachments (I really like my winch however). It'd be alot lighter and smaller. I may give one a try. I know it'd be kinda nice not interchanging the fingers and winch attachments, but I don't know that you really gain anything since removing bow from the press to use it anyway, and leverage-wise it's that much further out off the arms. Dunno... Trying out a couple polyurethane rollers too on the pivot for the draw/shooter as well.. Always room for improvements, or new ideas, and luckily with this modular design; I can always try anything I want and still put things back the way the were without cutting anything or compromising my original press at all.. If nothing else you gotta love that


----------



## 92safari

New deal in the works for parts and powdercoat...


----------



## jknudsen

This press/draw board/shooter/string jig have som grest ideas. I specially like the mounting svivling stand.


----------



## 92safari

Bill
[email protected]
574-993-1346


----------



## 92safari

Heres a list of pages and a list of posts that cover parts and such to get the info you need.
Pages; 28, 32, 34, 36, 43, 45, 49, 51, 55, & 56....
Post #'s; 678, 795, 842, 846, 881, 1074, 1129, 1225, 1227, 1263, 1264, 1364, , and most of page 56.


----------



## ndbwhunter

Could someone school me on the in and outs of the acme rod, bearing(s) and hand wheel configuration? I'm a little confused on how it all goes together. I'm planning on purchasing everything separate (rather than buy a jack), so I want to make sure I get the right parts and know their purpose. Pictures are helpful! Thanks

Ryan


----------



## 92safari

Go to the "press plans" thread if going that route. They're using an enclosed flange bearing assembly and acme rod and jam nuts which more in line with what you are planning.


----------



## RobColella

Okay All,

I finally got around to the final assembly with the hangars dipped and installed.















Many have asked what the dimensions are between the hangars. Well, with the fingers in the most neutral position it appears to be 25 1/2". 









With the inner tube cranked out 22" of travel, thereby leaving 10" of tubing inside the main tube, you will have 47 1/2". You could take it out an additional 2" of travel and have 8" of tubing inside the main body and reach 49 1/2" between the hangars.

I hope this helps those of you with questions.


----------



## 92safari

Nice!!... and now you have the satisfaction of knowing that you have something to last and is far superior to anything you could have Gotten anywhere else for at least the same, but probably less money... 
Good job. I know you've been working on it for awhile...


----------



## 92safari

Meets your needs for length..
With a sliding tail piece; max length could be as long as desired.
Meets your needs and you did it yourself better than a factory model is key


----------



## RobColella

Some have asked about the flange bearing and how it attaches to the acme rod. The flange bearing has three set screws that lock down to the shaft itself. No need for jam nuts or washers as the bearing does the work and is locked to the shaft. It is smooth like butter, but also adds a step to the overall build and the cost. You can purchase bearings online from $6-$20. You just have to google them. The flange bearing is mounted to a plate that has been welded to the main tubing body and has appropriate clearance hole for the shaft and mounting holes for the flange bolts. You can see what I'm talking about in the above photo. Any inquiry about hangars and brackets should go through Safari 92 and the appropriate channels. See the sponsor classifieds or PM him directly.


----------



## Rageous

Where do I get fingers to build this press and how much? 
Thanks


----------



## 92safari

Actually these fingers will more than handle a 7" cam and the radiused face and ability to tilt both fwds. as well as backwards independantly while holding their position allows more control for point of contact and various limb angles.


deerbum said:


> Here is a photo of my RPM in a similar style finger. Your design has shorter fingers but would certainly work.
> naslazhdat'sya


----------



## Kaizoku

Are you guys really using 1-1/4" tubing for the jack tube? I just got back from the metal shop and 1-1/4" looks way small to me.


----------



## 92safari

Yup.. 1 1/4" inner tube, 1 12" outer tube.. you can go up in size in everything respectively if you want, but this is plenty even for the xbows...


Kaizoku said:


> Are you guys really using 1-1/4" tubing for the jack tube? I just got back from the metal shop and 1-1/4" looks way small to me.


----------



## Kaizoku

Yeah I may bump up to 1.5, 1.75, and 2.0". The shop has 14g and 1/8" thicknesses. What do you prefer?


----------



## 92safari

14 guage fits inside itself well and easy to shim for nice fit. 1/8" will have rounder corners and a tight fit if at all inside each other with the flash seam. somtimes you get lucky, but not often.


----------



## NorCal_Matt

I'm on page 12 of 144 of this thread and I'm so excited I want to skip to the last few pages to see how it ends!


----------



## mintty123

Looks great !!!




ไฮไลท์บอล คู่เด็ด ทุกคู่ ทุกแมต ไม่พลาด ได้ที่นี่ ไฮไลท์ฟุตบอล


----------



## Northern Z7

anyone still making fingers or got a diagram for them? I read somewhere Last chance had a fit guys were selling them?


----------



## 92safari

ummm could be....


----------



## Northern Z7

I haven't been on the forum for Quite a while so if im missing something ???


----------



## 92safari

sent you a pm about parts, presses, and attachments.


----------



## NorCal_Matt

Hi, 92 Safari. Could you forward me the info you sent Northern Z7? I have the same question so I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.


----------



## 92safari

Att: Brian... got your voice mail, but didn't leave a call back number..
Bill


----------



## MaineBowhntr

Thanks 92, your stuff is great. Press came out good and works great


----------



## 92safari

Purdy sweet 
Nice job !!


----------



## 92safari

ttt


----------



## 92safari

*fingers*

I have 1 set of reversibles left right now if anyone wants to get started..
I'm going to try using my hooked fingers from my Monster Pac _Presses on one of these with a caution bar and see how they work out for the heck of it until my order gets finished. The mounting dimensions are exactly the same. They were just set up fora radial style press. The whole point of a modular press was to keep it versatile and adaptable for trying new things without having to take any chances altering the press...lol


----------



## Bazhenov

Friends, here is a bearing assembly is right for?
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK32?PARTPG=INSRAR2


----------



## 92safari

Just checked on the machined parts. The whole order should be ready from machinist by August but they never last long...lol


----------



## OHIOARCHER36

tagged


----------



## 92safari

Just got my phone call.. I'll have a limited amount of pieces. If needed; Let me know before theyre gone.


----------



## g.sampey

Thanks for this thread safari.


----------



## jnoland

Been off work a while due to health issues and the boredom was getting the best of me. I've been an outdoorsman and do it your self person all my life so finding this thread was great. Better than any book I ever read and hope it continues. Thanks Safari
Sent you an email but not showing up in sent folder so I'm not sure it went.


----------



## 92safari

anybody else have pics of theirs? all these look great..


----------



## buckwild13

Finally got mine powder coated!


----------



## buckwild13

Is there a better material to use on the fingers other than plasti dip? I put 4 coats of plasti dip on my fingers and the very first time I pressed a bow it ripped right through it. I let them sit for over 4 hours like recommended after the last coat. Any help would be awesome. I wonder if using industrial strength rubber coating would work better.


----------



## ClintR

buckwild13 said:


> Is there a better material to use on the fingers other than plasti dip? I put 4 coats of plasti dip on my fingers and the very first time I pressed a bow it ripped right through it. I let them sit for over 4 hours like recommended after the last coat. Any help would be awesome. I wonder if using industrial strength rubber coating would work better.


I always wondered......why couldn't you wrap the fingers with something like what they put on baseball bats or tennis rackets? A lot of folks use this stuff on crossbow stirrups and it seems to be durable. Perhaps it would be too thick for the fingers?


----------



## 92safari

Lol.. that's why I cover the dipping and emphasized letting them cure for at least 4 days. 4 hours between coats (can do quicker, but takes longer to cure and dry.. I've never worn through.. 
I've seen guys tape, wrap, shrink tube, leather, tape and dip, etc. Your dip may have been dry to the touch, but soft inside. I've found at least 4 days of curing hardens them considerably so they don't just squish, and I press xbows as well.


----------



## OrangeBlood

so im having a problem with the press I built. I used the jack like described in the original design. Once i get my bow to the point of it being pressed it becomes very very hard to continue to turn the handle, like almost impossible. What could I have done wrong? Without a bow I can turn the handle and everything is pretty smooth, not sure what is going on. Any thoughts?


----------



## 92safari

I find it best to put the screw in a drill and spin all the original Greese off in a rag then use clean greese. Also is your bearing and thrust washer in correct position? Between crank and end cap? Shims too tight?


----------



## OrangeBlood

I guess it could be my shims, I did remove all the old grease and put new clean on it. I'll tear it down and replace the shims with the slick strips this evening, see what that does. I'm also just using the jack handle, would it be easier if I used a hand wheel instead?


----------



## 92safari

handle is fine.. try posting some pics and we'll see what we can see. I'm assuming that the nut is straight so theres no binding.. correct?


----------



## OrangeBlood

92safari said:


> handle is fine.. try posting some pics and we'll see what we can see. I'm assuming that the nut is straight so theres no binding.. correct?


I believe it is, but it could be off a little I suppose. Without a bow its threads in & out pretty smoothly. I'll take some pics later tonight and post them up for examination.


----------



## Two Spinoni

I have a question about the finger assembly. I have it assembled correctly, and have three inch spacing between the plates. It seems that the threads on the adjustment knob are too short, as it is about a quarter inch short of even reaching the back finger. Do I need the full three inch spacing, or should I get new knobs with longer thread, to reach the full length? The old knobs could always be used someplace else.


----------



## 92safari

Nope that's how I use them. Unless you find a bow crazy wide. You can always swap the screw thread out with a 4 1/2". I use 4". I puposely use blue loctite on the knobs so they can always be swapped around if need be.


----------



## Two Spinoni

92safari said:


> Nope that's how I use them. Unless you find a bow crazy wide. You can always swap the screw thread out with a 4 1/2". I use 4". I puposely use blue loctite on the knobs so they can always be swapped around if need be.


Thanks for the info. This is going to be my winter project, so I am just trying to get everything ready. And thank you for starting this thread.


----------



## OrangeBlood

so I think I figured out my issue. For some reason when trying to press a short ata bow in close it must be binding up somewhere. I made my finger arm adjustable on the expanding bar so I can crank it out further and adjust the arm in for shorter bows. This pressed the bow with ease. Thanks for the help/tips.


----------



## 92safari

OrangeBlood said:


> so I think I figured out my issue. For some reason when trying to press a short ata bow in close it must be binding up somewhere. I made my finger arm adjustable on the expanding bar so I can crank it out further and adjust the arm in for shorter bows. This pressed the bow with ease. Thanks for the help/tips.


We still like seeing pic's... Really helps other guys visualize things they might encounter or change, modify, or just plain inspire to bite the bullet and build one..Glad you figured it out.. 
Chances are the nut and exit hole for the screw where crank fits on are off a hair and really exagerated as the 2 get coser together. Pretty easy fix though. Try sanding the screw end of your inner tube really well giving it a bit more wiggle room at the end, and use a 1/2" drill to ream your exit hole a bit giving more freedom for the end of the screw to wallow a bit instead of binding so much when all the way in. You won't notice it much as you'll rarely use the press that far in anyway. I always just leave mine out half way or more unless I'm tearing down; then I bring it almost all the way in except a good 2 inches or so to compress the bow. You can also just flip the tail piece up side down and shorten things up 8 inches or so just by doing that for shorter ata's..


----------



## Kaveman44

why take the trailer jack apart , mine is a 2 1/4" square trailer jack , the handle comes on the top and im going to just switch the bar for the wheel to crank it, cant i just weld onto the trailer jack

thanks jimmy


----------



## 92safari

That's what a lot of guys do. Alot get the fingers to adapt to their old toad , and ace, etc. Presses as well.. I'm working on putting together a quick conversion kit for sq. Harbor freight style Jacks now just for bolt on simplification as yet another alternative..


----------



## Jerry/NJ

a great thanks to Bill (92safari) for all his help!!! I modified my old Toad400 press to 'todays standards'. I am very happy with it !!! The knobs for the finger adjustments just came in the mail, hence not in the pics. I can press from about 10" to over 5'


----------



## 92safari

Really turned out great Jerry.. Worlds better and gonna last you a lifetime


----------



## Jerry/NJ

92safari said:


> Really turned out great Jerry.. Worlds better and gonna last you a lifetime


Oh yeah, I'll pass it on to my son, his son, etc.  

Here is the knob for the finger width adjustment I just put on. Really works nice!


----------



## Kaizoku

92safari said:


> I have 1 set of reversibles left right now if anyone wants to get started..
> I'm going to try using my hooked fingers from my Monster Pac _Presses on one of these with a caution bar and see how they work out for the heck of it until my order gets finished. The mounting dimensions are exactly the same. They were just set up fora radial style press. The whole point of a modular press was to keep it versatile and adaptable for trying new things without having to take any chances altering the press...lol


How did these fingers work out used linear versus radial?


----------



## MN Archery Guy

92safari pm sent


----------



## Kaveman44

all I need is a handwheel with handle which is on the way, and 1 3/4 square tubing plugs, I also need a set of fingers , these are a friends


----------



## AldoTheApache

Safari92 do you have any thoughts/ideas on how your press could be set up for the new Hoyt bows with the different fingers? I'm hoping theres a way to set it up otherwise no way would I get the new Hoyt.


----------



## ClintR

AldoTheApache said:


> Safari92 do you have any thoughts/ideas on how your press could be set up for the new Hoyt bows with the different fingers? I'm hoping theres a way to set it up otherwise no way would I get the new Hoyt.


My Xpedition Xcentric works just fine. Seems similar to the new Hoyts.


----------



## 92safari

ClintRhodes said:


> My Xpedition Xcentric works just fine. Seems similar to the new Hoyts.


haven't seen one yet, but can't imagine any more extreme than a bear attack. if using a caution bar it really shouldn't matter what its like. the adapters dont look like much. the whole 'limb capture techknowlogy"doesn't look any different than what we've been using for years now with the double fingers.
I'm guessing its gonna be another expensive fad thing with crazy preloaded limbs with little if any gain over simpler designs such as bear did with the attack and carnage, and then moved to simpler, more effective designs with longeity.


----------



## AldoTheApache

Thanks 92. I have your fingers and made the press. I haven't built a caution bar so maybe that'll be the answer. Guess I'll wait and see what the first owners of the bow says


----------



## Jerry/NJ

Here's a couple more pictures to show the versatility of my press, hopefully it might give someone else an idea. I can press something as close as 6" or as far as 62"


----------



## Fdale's Finest

Jerry/NJ said:


> Here's a couple more pictures to show the versatility of my press, hopefully it might give someone else an idea. I can press something as close as 6" or as far as 62"


Is this a Toad400 press that you modified? I like it and may have to do the same with mine. :wink:


----------



## Jerry/NJ

Fdale's Finest said:


> Is this a Toad400 press that you modified? I like it and may have to do the same with mine. :wink:


Yes sir it is. I figured it was cheaper to modify it than buy another.


----------



## jnoland

Got mine done yesterday. Got inspiration from Jerry's Toad press and a bunch from safari92. I ran into a problem though trying to press my Bowtech General. The bottom fingers used for bow stops would hit the limb hangers and not allow the bow to be fully compressed. I adjusted the fingers as far forward at the top but it still would not work. My only solution was to cut the lower fingers off and now it works like a charm. I wanted to be able to press both bows and crossbows and this setup will press from 12" to 50". I will have to order 2 new outside fingers to be able to press other types of bows that have stops. Attached are photos which should help to understand what I am talking about.


----------



## Jerry/NJ

jnoland said:


> Got mine done yesterday. Got inspiration from Jerry's Toad press and a bunch from safari92. I ran into a problem though trying to press my Bowtech General. The bottom fingers used for bow stops would hit the limb hangers and not allow the bow to be fully compressed. I adjusted the fingers as far forward at the top but it still would not work. My only solution was to cut the lower fingers off and now it works like a charm. I wanted to be able to press both bows and crossbows and this setup will press from 12" to 50". I will have to order 2 new outside fingers to be able to press other types of bows that have stops. Attached are photos which should help to understand what I am talking about.


Great job!


----------



## dr.shwack_em

Just finished my frame what paint did you guys use? And isit easy enough to make the fingers or is it worth it just to buy them?


----------



## nhcor

Got my in line built and it works great thanks 92safari!


----------



## 92safari

Looking great fellas.. Nice floor set up


----------



## shoot2thrill25

Shoulda learned to weld! CRIPES!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bdbwtie101

will this type of press work on an obsession evolution?


----------



## ClintR

bdbwtie101 said:


> will this type of press work on an obsession evolution?


I used to have an Evolution and mine worked just fine. It presses my Xcentric just fine too


----------



## Moparman340

*My Slimline in line build.*

Well here is my in line press. I Absolutely love it. I'm so glad this thread was created. It gave me a kick in the pants to build one.


----------



## 92safari

Excellent. Very creative and obviously alot of effort


----------



## Moparman340

Thanks 92safari! Yes it was a lot of effort, but it turned out exactly what I had planned out in my head. Would I do it again with that much machining? Probably not.lol I wish I had a milling machine and a lathe at home!


----------



## tguin

PM sent to 92safari


----------



## tiney-t

subscribed, can't wait to start mine.


----------



## 92safari

Nearly out of parts...


----------



## holbrookt

nice set up!


----------



## Fancy7

I made one, works great. Haven't tried a cross bow in it though


----------



## Jerry/NJ

Fancy7 said:


> I made one, works great. Haven't tried a cross bow in it though


Mine works great on crossbows


----------



## PaintballShaun

Hey guys, gals, and others! I'm new to AT, and to a lot of aspects of archery, so works of all these fine people involved are greatly appreciated. Great job on the "Open-Source Model 92 Coathanger" hahaha. Should really rename it.

That said, I am an Airsmith with a great deal of metalworking experience. 

A few notes I came up with while reading the first 20something pages....

* Someone mentioned welding a pipe or tube closed. *DO NOT DO THIS*. That is a *BOMB*, just from the welding process. You *MUST* have a hole in it! 

* ACME is a flat-topped thread design. Any threaded rod will work, assuming it's sturdy. Nuts are MUCH easier to find in regular thread-patterns than in ACME. It will be a fair bit harder to turn without a bearing though, so keep it greased.

* Has anyone considered slapping a cheap corded drill on the end of their rod instead of a handle? Just saying, would probably cost about the same... and if you're already using ready-rod, then just grind it down enough to fit in the drill and TA DA! Haven't done it, but it would be fast. 

* Early on in the thread, someone mentioned the nut they were going to use "only had 3 threads deep," feared it may not take enough weight, and found another option as I recall. The way a thread fits in a nut, only one or two threads take weight at any given time, so the trailer-jack screw setup is way-overkill. The shear-strength of the steel and thickness of thread's cross-section determine holding strength more than anything else. If you're unsure, a steel yard should be able to give you a ballpark idea of how much force it can handle on a straight pull without stripping. 

And not to cramp 92's coat-hanger sales, but a hacksaw, drill, and a file or two is all that is needed to produce these, for you super-broke DIYers like me 
I fortunately have more tools to choose from. I'm just pointing out that it's very possible.

*Great job 92safari, you deserve every penny gleaned by your efforts and designs! *On-par with the string-and-cable-build-guide for content (brainfart on that one, Hutch comes to mind though.)


----------



## mibowhunter2094

PaintballShaun said:


> Hey guys, gals, and others! I'm new to AT, and to a lot of aspects of archery, so works of all these fine people involved are greatly appreciated. Great job on the "Open-Source Model 92 Coathanger" hahaha. Should really rename it.
> 
> That said, I am an Airsmith with a great deal of metalworking experience.
> 
> A few notes I came up with while reading the first 20something pages....
> 
> * Someone mentioned welding a pipe or tube closed. *DO NOT DO THIS*. That is a *BOMB*, just from the welding process. You *MUST* have a hole in it!
> 
> * ACME is a flat-topped thread design. Any threaded rod will work, assuming it's sturdy. Nuts are MUCH easier to find in regular thread-patterns than in ACME. It will be a fair bit harder to turn without a bearing though, so keep it greased.
> 
> * Has anyone considered slapping a cheap corded drill on the end of their rod instead of a handle? Just saying, would probably cost about the same... and if you're already using ready-rod, then just grind it down enough to fit in the drill and TA DA! Haven't done it, but it would be fast.
> 
> * Early on in the thread, someone mentioned the nut they were going to use "only had 3 threads deep," feared it may not take enough weight, and found another option as I recall. The way a thread fits in a nut, only one or two threads take weight at any given time, so the trailer-jack screw setup is way-overkill. The shear-strength of the steel and thickness of thread's cross-section determine holding strength more than anything else. If you're unsure, a steel yard should be able to give you a ballpark idea of how much force it can handle on a straight pull without stripping.
> 
> And not to cramp 92's coat-hanger sales, but a hacksaw, drill, and a file or two is all that is needed to produce these, for you super-broke DIYers like me
> I fortunately have more tools to choose from. I'm just pointing out that it's very possible.
> 
> *Great job 92safari, you deserve every penny gleaned by your efforts and designs! *On-par with the string-and-cable-build-guide for content (brainfart on that one, Hutch comes to mind though.)


Can you post pictures of your press?


----------



## PaintballShaun

I'll happily do so when I get it together  Just starting and slow due to disability.


----------



## mibowhunter2094

PaintballShaun said:


> I'll happily do so when I get it together  Just starting and slow due to disability.


Gotcha.
Welcome to Archery Talk


----------



## tbrady

Finally finished mine.... Big thanks to Rob for answering a ton of questions. And yeah, my fingers aren't attached correctly in those pics. 























Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## mibowhunter2094

tbrady said:


> Finally finished mine.... Big thanks to Rob for answering a ton of questions. And yeah, my fingers aren't attached correctly in those pics.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3755121
> View attachment 3755129
> View attachment 3755137
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Looks good! Good work


----------



## 92safari

Nice


----------



## BowBaker1640

tbrady said:


> Finally finished mine.... Big thanks to Rob for answering a ton of questions. And yeah, my fingers aren't attached correctly in those pics.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3755121
> View attachment 3755129
> View attachment 3755137
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


nice job! what diameter is your crank wheel?


----------



## tbrady

It's the 8" Grizzly handwheel ($34 from amazon or 25 directly from Grizzly). With that size wheel it doesn't take hardly any effort for me to press my 70# bow, it's extremely smooth.


----------



## Jaliv92

Tagged


----------



## Birdymon

I think I have the whole shebang figured out for how it goes together and dimensions for everything except for the draw tower pieces, anybody know where in the thread those sizes are? I have looked twice.


----------



## mibowhunter2094

Birdymon said:


> I think I have the whole shebang figured out for how it goes together and dimensions for everything except for the draw tower pieces, anybody know where in the thread those sizes are? I have looked twice.


If you're talking about the vertical draw board then you need to consider what hoist or winch you plan to use and size of scale. I made mine fairly tall. I'll check when I get home


----------



## satchamo

92safari said:


> Heres just another variant of the inline press combinding some conventional with unconventional. This is also a completely modular assembly using the same basic jack tube assembly that we started with and added some more traditional 90 degree arms that both operate as a carrage assembly on a slide rail to adjust from just a few inches out to however long you want to make your extension tube (This particular press extends to 49 1/2"). Great if you have kids with some of the very short ATA youth bows or crossbows. I actually have another configuration for crossbows as well as bows which allows the hanger assemblies to be inverted. Just another quick example of some of the possibilities working from the same basic design.


Does anyone have dimensions for this build?

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk


----------



## PaintballShaun

satchamo said:


> Does anyone have dimensions for this build?


It's just another bracket around the frame, with a bar standing straight up, winch hooked around pullies to the top so you can reach and adjust it's position by sliding the upright to suit the bow. It's a boltable or weldable a 90* angle to make a slight overhang to center (for your top pully) with the same square structural steel previously used.... If I do understand correctly.


----------



## satchamo

Finished her up a couple nights ago and have already pressed some bows with it. I couldn't be happier with it. 92's finger system is ingenious.


----------



## BGagner

Tagged. Looks like a fun project


----------



## tree_ghost

Ok I have a dumb question...the hand wheels that many are adding to their presses, are you attaching it by welding it to the rod or by some other method?


----------



## ClintR

tree_ghost said:


> Ok I have a dumb question...the hand wheels that many are adding to their presses, are you attaching it by welding it to the rod or by some other method?


Yeah I haven't found a very easy way to do it.


----------



## b0w_bender

tree_ghost said:


> Ok I have a dumb question...the hand wheels that many are adding to their presses, are you attaching it by welding it to the rod or by some other method?


On mine I ground a flat spot on one side of the shaft and then used a set screw in the hand wheel that screws in flush to the flat section on the shaft.


----------



## bowbender300

Very easy - drill out the hand wheel to the size of the threaded rod. Drill and tap 2 holes in the side for locking set screws.


----------



## ndbwhunter

Anyone have an updated parts list with part numbers? I've got one from a while back, but I'm sure some of you guys have found better, and cheaper, ways to build these things. I'd looking for a list that includes all of the parts needed to use the hand wheel. Thanks


----------



## tree_ghost

I have a question about the washers used inside the main tube as shims to keep the slope out of the press frame. Has anyone used plastic washers glued in to help eliminate paint scratching?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BowBaker1640

if you read the thread there is also a material that is called slick strip that you can buy that you can stick on the end of the large tube that will make it slide easy as well as take the slop out. the way I'm doing my press I'm putting it in the end of the large tube and on the end of the tube that moves. that way I take the slop out of both ends of the tube that moves


----------



## BowBaker1640

the first place I found them mentioned was on page 41 post#1016


----------



## tree_ghost

BowBaker1640 said:


> the first place I found them mentioned was on page 41 post#1016


Thank you sir!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BowBaker1640

you can find it on ebay and it comes in a roll


----------



## 92safari

You'll find on average using a 14 guage outer tube that the gap is .025-.030 on each side or roughly .060 if shimming just 2 sides. Any plastic material can be used for shim stock. Credit cards, slick strip, plastic washers, hobby plastics, etc. Loctite, or gorilla super glue will hold in place if steel is cleaned first. They can always be popped back out if needed, or filed a bit if a minute adjustment is need.. A little play really isn't that critical.. Fender washers are fine if not concerned with scratches..


----------



## imbucky26

RobColella said:


> Okay All,
> 
> I finally got around to the final assembly with the hangars dipped and installed.
> 
> View attachment 2300321
> View attachment 2300417
> 
> 
> Many have asked what the dimensions are between the hangars. Well, with the fingers in the most neutral position it appears to be 25 1/2".
> 
> View attachment 2300369
> 
> 
> With the inner tube cranked out 22" of travel, thereby leaving 10" of tubing inside the main tube, you will have 47 1/2". You could take it out an additional 2" of travel and have 8" of tubing inside the main body and reach 49 1/2" between the hangars.
> 
> I hope this helps those of you with questions.


There are a lot of nice builds on this thread but,in my opinion, this is one of the best!


----------



## imbucky26

I have an extra set of fingers if someone is interested.
$20 TYD
PM me if interested.


----------



## mibowhunter2094

....


----------



## mibowhunter2094

imbucky26 said:


> I have an extra set of fingers if someone is interested.
> $20 TYD
> PM me if interested.
> 
> View attachment 3933921


Pm sent


----------



## imbucky26

Sold


----------



## 92safari

Need to keep buying or selling in the classifieds.. against rules of DIY section..


----------



## pbusanga

Great Thread! and much thanks to 92safari for all the work he has put into this and for sharing with us. :thumbs_upcan someone pm me the dimensions of the fingers, i live in West Africa so cannot order them, i have to make them myself.

thanks


----------



## crawdad375

This is a fantastic thread.


----------



## imbucky26

92safari said:


> Need to keep buying or selling in the classifieds.. against rules of DIY section..


Sorry, I see that now. Thanks for the reminder!


----------



## imbucky26

Got, er, done. Took a shoulder surgery to make the time but I finally did it. Thanks guys and especially 92safari!










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Steel185

Were are you guys getting the hand wheel?


----------



## mibowhunter2094

Steel185 said:


> Were are you guys getting the hand wheel?


Grizzly is cheapest I found. I have some extra bearings. Pm me


----------



## 92safari

imbucky26 said:


> Got, er, done. Took a shoulder surgery to make the time but I finally did it. Thanks guys and especially 92safari!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sweet!!
Remember the double fingers go on the outside of the mount plate...


----------



## Jeff1815

Got my parts cut getting ready to start building.


----------



## hondaburner95

Subscribed


----------



## Jeff1815

Made some progress on my press, look it over and see if any changes need to be made so far
Thanks


----------



## mikear

I got all my 92Safari type modular press parts cut tonight. I am also building the caution bar. Most parts are purchased except the rubber hose for the caution bar studs and the 1/4" plate for the flange bearing. 

Press









Caution Bar









Caution Bar


----------



## jim p

Does anyone have an estimate of the cost of the metal required to make this press? Also is anyone producing a kit which only needs to be welded together?

Pm me if you don't want to post for everyone to see.

If I have to cut all this metal with a hack saw, I will be cutting for a while.


----------



## mikear

jim p said:


> Does anyone have an estimate of the cost of the metal required to make this press? Also is anyone producing a kit which only needs to be welded together?
> 
> Pm me if you don't want to post for everyone to see.
> 
> If I have to cut all this metal with a hack saw, I will be cutting for a while.


I had to special order the 1-3/4" tubing so I got 3'. It was $5.28/ft delivered to my local metal supply. The 1-1/2" was $1.27/ft & the 1-1/4" was $0.97/ft. I bought quite a bit extra but only spent $47.94 + tax.

Metal prices vary drastically based on your location. Call around for the best price. Some guys have said that their metal supply cut the metal for free. Another idea that 92safari brought up was finding a local muffler shop and asking if they'd cut and weld it for you for a small fee or case of beer. 

Hope this helps.


----------



## mibowhunter2094

All the steel shops in my area will cut for you but charge a fee per cut. Usually $1 a cut. The privately owned businesses are typically less expensive and may just give a set price for all cuts rather than per cut.


----------



## jim p

Thanks for the tips. I live out in the sticks and it is going to be tough getting all the parts together.

I guess that I will keep using my $20 pipe press until I can get the pieces that I need to make this better press. Maybe some one will order up twice as much metal as they need and let me know what they have.


----------



## mwtwrig0

I spent $32 on steel tubing and cut on a chop saw


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mikear

mwtwrig0 said:


> I spent $32 on steel tubing and cut on a chop saw
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I bought 20' of 1-1/4", 10' of 1-1/2", 3' of 1-3/4" to have some extra so I paid a bit more.


----------



## mikear

Got most of the press welded up last night. My welds look pretty bad but it's been over 11 years since I've welded. 

One question, my left arm is not a perfect 90°. How crucial is this? I have enough metal to remake this piece of necessary.


----------



## mikear

And by the way, that is not the outer main tube I'll be using. I just used that piece for mock up purposes.


----------



## Steel185

tbrady said:


> Finally finished mine.... Big thanks to Rob for answering a ton of questions. And yeah, my fingers aren't attached correctly in those pics.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3755121
> View attachment 3755129
> View attachment 3755137
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Hey,how do you like that hand wheel? I've been looking at that one on amazon. How does it fit on the A-frame jack acme rod?


----------



## Outsider

mikear said:


> Got most of the press welded up last night. My welds look pretty bad but it's been over 11 years since I've welded.
> 
> One question, my left arm is not a perfect 90°. How crucial is this? I have enough metal to remake this piece of necessary.


Are you going to use 92safari fingers? How close are you to be 90 degrees?


----------



## mikear

Outsider said:


> Are you going to use 92safari fingers? How close are you to be 90 degrees?


Yes, I am using Safari's fingers. It's off about 1/8" to 3/16" from the corner weld to the tip of the 6-1/2" finger tubing (acute angle). I hate to use up my finger adjustability for a few dollars worth of tubing, but then again I'm not sure how much adjustment his fingers are capable of. 

Thanks


----------



## Outsider

mikear said:


> Yes, I am using Safari's fingers. It's off about 1/8" to 3/16" from the corner weld to the tip of the 6-1/2" finger tubing (acute angle). I hate to use up my finger adjustability for a few dollars worth of tubing, but then again I'm not sure how much adjustment his fingers are capable of.
> 
> Thanks


Exactly. If you have time and material make a new one. At least that what I will do :wink:


----------



## 92safari

mikear said:


> Yes, I am using Safari's fingers. It's off about 1/8" to 3/16" from the corner weld to the tip of the 6-1/2" finger tubing (acute angle). I hate to use up my finger adjustability for a few dollars worth of tubing, but then again I'm not sure how much adjustment his fingers are capable of.
> 
> Thanks


Yup... Now is best time to get as close to perfect as possible. I genernally like my outer fingers a hair foreward of the inners intially.. Fingers adjust independently 1" fwd. & backwards; so probably not critical, but why settle? It's going to last you forever; Be a good feeling knowing it's as right as possible forever..lol
Looking good


----------



## Steel185

mikear said:


> Yes, I am using Safari's fingers. It's off about 1/8" to 3/16" from the corner weld to the tip of the 6-1/2" finger tubing (acute angle). I hate to use up my finger adjustability for a few dollars worth of tubing, but then again I'm not sure how much adjustment his fingers are capable of.
> 
> Thanks


I welded up one of these. Real cheap, easy, and real square. 

















Great for square tube welding 90 ends.

I have to give credit, I didn't think it up. Found it here.
http://makezine.com/projects/welding-a-jig/


----------



## 92safari

Sweet!! I like it. Looks alot more sturdy than what I have


----------



## Steel185

I used angle iron to hold the two pieces together than the flat the "how to" used. This will make it more ridged for heat purposes. Also the connecting angle I put it so I can clamp it to a table if needed. I have the clamps a little close for the picture, but after the picture I cut the tact welds and let the clamps be free to clamp anywhere on the jig. This helps fit to the side of the table and for short or long pieces of tubing.


----------



## 92safari

Steel185 said:


> I used angle iron to hold the two pieces together than the flat the "how to" used. This will make it more ridged for heat purposes. Also the connecting angle I put it so I can clamp it to a table if needed. I have the clamps a little close for the picture, but after the picture I cut the tact welds and let the clamps be free to clamp anywhere on the jig. This helps fit to the side of the table and for short or long pieces of tubing.


I like how it's so open. Leaves plenty of access to various sides of the joint for visual as well as for tacks.. Gonna have to make one up.. Mine are aluminum and really limited on access..


----------



## mikear

92safari said:


> I like how it's so open. Leaves plenty of access to various sides of the joint for visual as well as for tacks.. Gonna have to make one up.. Mine are aluminum and really limited on access..


I got one of these. http://m.harborfreight.com/corner-clamp-with-quick-release-38661.html

The quick adjust stinks and the threads on the adjustment/nut appear aluminum. Stripped out on my second weld on one side. 

I really like that angle clamp you made. Will have to try that.


----------



## Steel185

I thought about one of those harbor freight angle clamps like you have, but the reviews were about what you're were. The only other was a true $135 welding clamp, and that's too much for me. So I looked at other options. I think this jig cost me $12 total, I got new clamps for it.


----------



## thegoodoldboy

I have a10" radial chop saw... Ive looking at different blades for cutting the tubing. Anyone with recommendations on what type of blade? Also is there a certain rpm needed for the saw to handle cutting the tubing? And one final question... I dont have a drill press but i have variety of good drills... What type of drill do I need to drill holes in the tubing? Nothing I have tried seems to work and I feel like an idiot lol.


----------



## thegoodoldboy

mwtwrig0 said:


> I spent $32 on steel tubing and cut on a chop saw
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have a10" radial chop saw... Ive looking at different blades for cutting the tubing. Anyone with recommendations on what type of blade? Also is there a certain rpm needed for the saw to handle cutting the tubing? And one final question... I dont have a drill press but i have variety of good drills... What type of drill do I need to drill holes in the tubing? Nothing I have tried seems to work and I feel like an idiot lol.


----------



## thegoodoldboy

Another question while im in here... I havent started building my press yet. Was out of work for quite awhile dealing with some health issues but im back now feeling great! So im back to working on my press plans... I have searched several of the threads... Ive seen some folks have added the ability to pivot the entire bow while pressed. However i haven't seen anyone post how they are building that part or where they are buying them.... Any thoughts or ideas? 

Here's an example of what I mean:


----------



## 92safari

Chop saw will do fine. You can get 10" cut off wheels at Lowes for about $6. Get a couple. Holes don't need to be square so you couldget by with a hand drill. Dewalt pilot point sets are about $25 and work very well.


----------



## 92safari

thegoodoldboy said:


> Another question while im in here... I havent started building my press yet. Was out of work for quite awhile dealing with some health issues but im back now feeling great! So im back to working on my press plans... I have searched several of the threads... Ive seen some folks have added the ability to pivot the entire bow while pressed. However i haven't seen anyone post how they are building that part or where they are buying them.... Any thoughts or ideas?
> 
> Here's an example of what I mean:
> 
> View attachment 4154218


Its just round tubing..


----------



## thegoodoldboy

Lol thanks 92. I didn't even think about that. Laughing pretty hard my self.


----------



## Steel185

thegoodoldboy said:


> I have a10" radial chop saw... Ive looking at different blades for cutting the tubing. Anyone with recommendations on what type of blade? Also is there a certain rpm needed for the saw to handle cutting the tubing? And one final question... I dont have a drill press but i have variety of good drills... What type of drill do I need to drill holes in the tubing? Nothing I have tried seems to work and I feel like an idiot lol.


I have a hatachi 14" chop saw, it's ok but I had to look up the specs when you asked. My saw is rated ate 4000rpm, It looks like most 10" radial chop saws are rated around 4,800rpm. So I'm guessing it's more the blade. I've used a cut off wheel (thin grinder disc) and it worked well. When it wore out I got a desalt diamond tipped blade, it works about the same. The only thing I don't like about the chop saws in general is if you push down too hard then lad flexes causing your cuts to not be straight. 

In short, get a good blade for steel and you should be fine. But any type of cut off tool will work. Even a Dremel would do the job, just takes a bit longer, but use what you have in your tool box.


----------



## Unk Bond

Unk Bond said:


> Hello All
> Your wish is my command. :teeth:
> 
> Later Unk


==========================

Hello
Guys I just bought a 2012 PSE Dominator pro 40 bow

Will my coat hangers in the picture above press this bow. Though I would ask be for I try pressing my PSE Dominator pro 40 bow Thanks [ Later


----------



## BowBaker1640

where did you find that picture? i'd like to see a larger view of it


thegoodoldboy said:


> Another question while im in here... I havent started building my press yet. Was out of work for quite awhile dealing with some health issues but im back now feeling great! So im back to working on my press plans... I have searched several of the threads... Ive seen some folks have added the ability to pivot the entire bow while pressed. However i haven't seen anyone post how they are building that part or where they are buying them.... Any thoughts or ideas?
> 
> Here's an example of what I mean:
> 
> View attachment 4154218


----------



## thegoodoldboy

BowBaker1640 said:


> where did you find that picture? i'd like to see a larger view of it


I just google imaged... Rotate bow press and its about half way down page 1


----------



## Keith t

I'm surprised more guys aren't going with the square tube tongue jack from harbor freight. i made mine from one and with a few simple mods it works like a champ.

I'll try to post some pics tonight


----------



## Jeff1815

Got some more done all that left is dip fingers, rubber hose on caution bar and paint.


----------



## 92safari

Sweet!! Looks great.. Just about there


----------



## mikear

Jeff1815 said:


> Got some more done all that left is dip fingers, rubber hose on caution bar and paint.


Great work, Jeff. Hope mine turns out 1/2 as nice.


----------



## mikear

Just need the rubber hose for the caution bar, Plasti Dip to dry, and a paint job.


----------



## 3Dblackncamo

mikear said:


> Just need the rubber hose for the caution bar, Plasti Dip to dry, and a paint job.


nice looking press, where did you get the hand wheel


----------



## mikear

3Dblackncamo said:


> nice looking press, where did you get the hand wheel


http://www.grizzly.com/products/Cast-Iron-Handwheel-8-/H3190?utm_campaign=zPage

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Chromed-Handle-4-x-3-8-16/H3205?utm_campaign=zPage

Signed up for emails and got up to $25 free shipping or something like that. Was able to get 2 day shipping for free. I had the hand wheel drilled to 3/4" bore and 3 set screws installed.


----------



## mikear

Excuse my ignorance, but won't the draw tower and draw/shooter assemblies do the same thing for the cam sync work? One advantage I see to the tower is you can draw and watch the cams easier, where the draw/shooter you are cranking from one end and watching the bow on the other. Am I thinking right, or is it a non-issue? Also, the draw/shooter has the obvious "shooter" function.


----------



## 92safari

For just synching and tuning I think its much easier using the tower since I don't have to stop everything to pull bow out, and set it up horizontally to watch the cams with one obviously 4 ft below my face..lol
With the tower; I just press, adjust; then slide rt. side fingers out of the way and pull the hoist above while still in the press. Both cams are level and in my face where I can see what they are doing; then repress and tweek, and so on. Really I just use the winch for a shooter when I want to..


----------



## jim p

Post up some pictures. Which jack did you use? I looked at some of their jacks and could not decide which one might work.



Keith t said:


> I'm surprised more guys aren't going with the square tube tongue jack from harbor freight. i made mine from one and with a few simple mods it works like a champ.
> 
> I'll try to post some pics tonight


----------



## mikear

I used a 36" length 3/4"-6 ACME threaded rod for my press. When extending or retracting from a near fully collapsed position the threaded rod hit the walls of the inner tube while cranking. It was an annoyance more than anything. A piece of 3/4" schedule 40 PVC fixed that.









Here is a photo of the bearing assembly. It is set screw collar, bearing, collar, hand wheel. Th shaft is dimpled for security.









And some dry moly lube for the threaded rod.


----------



## 92safari

Clever.. Looks great.. Gonna get years of service out of it for sure


----------



## mikear

92safari said:


> Clever.. Looks great.. Gonna get years of service out of it for sure


Bill,

Thank you for your patience with all my questions. I love the modular design even though I haven't even pressed a bow yet! Since building the press, I now have friends with bows that I didn't even know had bows! Sort of like winning the lottery, that's when you have more friends/family than ever before.


----------



## Steel185

mikear said:


> I used a 36" length 3/4"-6 ACME threaded rod for my press. When extending or retracting from a near fully collapsed position the threaded rod hit the walls of the inner tube while cranking. It was an annoyance more than anything. A piece of 3/4" schedule 40 PVC fixed that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of the bearing assembly. It is set screw collar, bearing, collar, hand wheel. Th shaft is dimpled for security.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some dry moly lube for the threaded rod.


I like the PVC addition, that noise was annoying to me too. 

I'm not understanding how the large Bering is attached to the 1 1/2 square tubing? The Bering seems a lot bigger and the holes don't line up to anything.


----------



## mikear

Steel185 said:


> I like the PVC addition, that noise was annoying to me too.
> 
> I'm not understanding how the large Bering is attached to the 1 1/2 square tubing? The Bering seems a lot bigger and the holes don't line up to anything.


See post #1579. I have a photo of the 1/4" flat plate that is welded to the 1-1/2" outer tube. If you need better photos let me know. 

I love the flange bearing for the press as it is buttery smooth. Please be aware that with 92safari's design you can remove the legs, feet, caution bar, etc from either end of the press. In my case, these things can only be removed from the left. It was a small sacrifice for a big gain, IMO, but may be something to consider for others. 

Thanks.


----------



## mikear

Steel185 said:


> I like the PVC addition, that noise was annoying to me too.
> 
> I'm not understanding how the large Bering is attached to the 1 1/2 square tubing? The Bering seems a lot bigger and the holes don't line up to anything.


Here's a better photo.


----------



## Steel185

Ok that helps a lot more. 
Thanks. 

The ACME threaded nut is still welded in the same place as with the basic design? So this last picture is before its welded?


----------



## mikear

Yes & No. Yes the nut is welded in the same place. No this is not before the nut is welded in. This photo is of the outer 1-1/2" tube. The nut is welded to the inner 1-1/4" tube.


----------



## mikear

mikear said:


> Yes & No. Yes the nut is welded in the same place. No this is not before the nut is welded in. This photo is of the outer 1-1/2" tube. The nut is welded to the inner 1-1/4" tube.


Inner tube pic. Standard ACME nut as I did not salvage a trailer jack for this build


----------



## mikear

mikear said:


> .....And some dry moly lube for the threaded rod.


DON'T use dry moly spray lube like I did. 

It became more difficult to crank and was noisy. I've used it in the past at work for high load anti-seizing & lubrication, but it didn't work for my press. Not sure what went wrong but I applied some Mobil 1 and ran the rod in and out a few times then cleaned up the excess. All is well again.


----------



## BaileyTBowers

Just picked up all the parts yesterday getting ready to build two of these. Will post pics if I can.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


----------



## mikear

I'm using 7" carriage bolts that I Plasti Dipped the heads for the caution bar. Won't have to cut them off and they look cool.









Here is my press christening. My press and I have never pressed a bow before this photo. Both of my bows need yoke tuning and peep adjustment, this will be fun. 









I didn't have my caution bar on at the time, but it looks as if it will hit my sight. Anybody have a remedy?


----------



## Jeff1815

Ok got my press painted and fingers dipped also put plastic plugs in tubing. Really enjoyed the build


----------



## 92safari

mikear said:


> I'm using 7" carriage bolts that I Plasti Dipped the heads for the caution bar. Won't have to cut them off and they look cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my press christening. My press and I have never pressed a bow before this photo. Both of my bows need yoke tuning and peep adjustment, this will be fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't have my caution bar on at the time, but it looks as if it will hit my sight. Anybody have a remedy?


If so just flip the bow around, or slide finger sleeves out to end of arms..


----------



## 92safari

Jeff1815 said:


> Ok got my press painted and fingers dipped also put plastic plugs in tubing. Really enjoyed the build
> View attachment 4196714
> View attachment 4196722
> View attachment 4196730
> View attachment 4196738


Super looking.. Did you put atleast 3-4 coats of dip on the fingers and allow 4 days to cure good? Edges just look pretty well defined..
Good job


----------



## Jeff1815

Yes 3 coats and it been a week


----------



## 92safari

Jeff1815 said:


> Yes 3 coats and it been a week


Nice.. Have fun


----------



## mikear

Bill,

I didn't make finger sleeves. I'll swap the inside and outside fingers so I can flip the bow and not hit the draw stops. 

Thanks for the tip.


----------



## Jeff1815

Thanks, Bill


----------



## mikear

Awesome press Jeff!


----------



## BowBaker1640

what did you use to paint your press ? spray can or did you use a better quality paint? looks very well done !


Jeff1815 said:


> Ok got my press painted and fingers dipped also put plastic plugs in tubing. Really enjoyed the build
> View attachment 4196714
> View attachment 4196722
> View attachment 4196730
> View attachment 4196738


----------



## mibowhunter2094

Tried something different this time around. 
Made a hitch mount as well as bench mount. Used a 10" handwheel.


----------



## Jeff1815

Thanks,Used that hammered looking paint in a spray can with a good primer under it.


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello
Very Nice. :thumbs_up [ Later


----------



## Beendare

Thx to Safari for a great thread...

So everyone is using steel for those fingers? Would 7075 aluminum work?


----------



## 92safari

Beendare said:


> Thx to Safari for a great thread...
> 
> So everyone is using steel for those fingers? Would 7075 aluminum work?


Theyre laser cut from 3/8" plate steel. I'm sure you can use aluminum, but couldnt say how the fingers and holes would hold up over time especially if pressing xbows as well.


----------



## Steel185

Beendare said:


> Thx to Safari for a great thread...
> 
> So everyone is using steel for those fingers? Would 7075 aluminum work?


I would use 7075 without hesitation. The LCA press fingers use Aluminum and I believe it's 6061 (someone correct me if I'm wrong). I'd go with 3/8" or 1/2" and give it a try, most likely no issue and would work great.


----------



## ndbwhunter

I don't suppose anyone has a pattern of the reversible fingers they could send me?


----------



## 92safari

ndbwhunter said:


> I don't suppose anyone has a pattern of the reversible fingers they could send me?


I'm sorry Ryan, The site kept loosing alot of my pm's for last couple months without ryme or reason. I have some sets here or I can try tracing one out.. unless you still wanted a built press (Machinist has the files). Emailing is probably more reliable [email protected]
Bill


----------



## ndbwhunter

92safari said:


> I'm sorry Ryan, The site kept loosing alot of my pm's for last couple months without ryme or reason. I have some sets here or I can try tracing one out.. unless you still wanted a built press (Machinist has the files). Emailing is probably more reliable [email protected]
> Bill


Bill,

Email sent. Thanks


----------



## bseltzer

Has anyone come up with a DIY solution to the problem of pressing the new Hoyt bows like the HyperEdge? If so, I'd be very, very interested.


----------



## ChuckA84

bseltzer said:


> Has anyone come up with a DIY solution to the problem of pressing the new Hoyt bows like the HyperEdge? If so, I'd be very, very interested.


Yes, the caution bar that is on several of these presses. It is an extra bar with posts coming out adjustable for height and width between the posts so the posts contact the riser and prevent the bow from being able to jump down out of the fingers...look closely in this pic:


----------



## bseltzer

Looks like the caution bar would be effective at keeping the bow in place. But what about the issue of finger engagement with the limb tips?


----------



## 92safari

bseltzer said:


> Looks like the caution bar would be effective at keeping the bow in place. But what about the issue of finger engagement with the limb tips?


The bar adjusts up and down; With the radius-ed face of the fingers along with the tilt; You can control the point of contact of finger to limb... I've had no trouble pressing my Attacks, or Carnage's.. I haven't tore them down in it, but tearing down and then back up is usually a pain on pre-loaded bows..


----------



## bseltzer

92safari said:


> The bar adjusts up and down; With the radius-ed face of the fingers along with the tilt; You can control the point of contact of finger to limb... I've had no trouble pressing my Attacks, or Carnage's.. I haven't tore them down in it, but tearing down and then back up is usually a pain on pre-loaded bows..


Thanks for the info! Looks like I'll be ordering a caution bar as soon as I can scrape the fund together.


----------



## bseltzer

Per Bill's request, here are some pictures of the LCA UL adapters mounted on one of his inline presses. Be advised that LCA strongly advises against such use. That said, it works for me without issue.

This shows that the stock fingers co-exist with the UL adapters just fine. It also demonstrates the engagement of the limbs in them. 









The stock finger assembly does need to be removed to install the UL adapters which straddle the inside finger mounting blade









Adding the adapters to the fixed end of the press was trivial









And here's the whole thing in use









Sorry for the background mess, but I hope this answers some questions.


----------



## wood2212

Vey nice thanks for sharing.


----------



## Beendare

A big hat tip to the guys on this DIY section....thx for posting your projects.......and a special thx to 92Safari!

Heres mine....a fun easy project 
edit; i have no idea why these pics go from right side up to turned when putting them on the site. Ah Ha! figured it out. When I don't reduce the image prior to putting here...the large format pics are on their side.


----------



## 92safari

Looks GREAT!!


----------



## RonGH

Great thread. I better get to work..


----------



## BaileyTBowers

If there are any Texas guys on here id love to know where y'all are getting yalls fingers from.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

BaileyTBowers said:


> If there are any Texas guys on here id love to know where y'all are getting yalls fingers from.
> 
> Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2115941&page=11


----------



## TNHeise

Very detailed! Thanks for the post!


----------



## cardosot

I wish to thank 92Safari for the delivery of hangers.
Time for me to play now ...


----------



## 92safari

Has anyone had a newer Hoyt in their press??


----------



## bonecollector66

tag to build 1


----------



## hammera

tagged


----------



## FairchildG1

I found the page with the write-up of the "important pages" but I still didn't find the info I was after. I've seen a few that looked like a carbon copy of the EZ press from LCA with the addition of the 92safari finger assembly. This looks like the easiest to build, is there a write up for that "updated" version in here somewhere that I've just missed?


----------



## 92safari

Some of there other fellas presses follow gunners thread and add my finger assemblies..


----------



## j.d.m.

bseltzer said:


> Per Bill's request, here are some pictures of the LCA UL adapters mounted on one of his inline presses. Be advised that LCA strongly advises against such use. That said, it works for me without issue.
> 
> This shows that the stock fingers co-exist with the UL adapters just fine. It also demonstrates the engagement of the limbs in them.
> 
> View attachment 4307409
> 
> 
> The stock finger assembly does need to be removed to install the UL adapters which straddle the inside finger mounting blade
> 
> View attachment 4307433
> 
> 
> Adding the adapters to the fixed end of the press was trivial
> 
> View attachment 4307457
> 
> 
> And here's the whole thing in use
> 
> View attachment 4307489
> 
> 
> Sorry for the background mess, but I hope this answers some questions.


Any chance you can give the dimension from the center of screw that holds the white plastic roller looking things, up to the end of the limb tip? I'd like to know how far from the limb tip , the bottom pieces support the bow so it doesn't slip out. Thanks.


----------



## Steel185

92safari said:


> Ok; I can't seem to figure outwhy I cant upload from my pc anymore and phone pics keep getting flipped sideways. Sorry.
> Here are some add on revisions for adapting the press to also being a draw/shooting machine very simply with minimal parts and costs. Now at this point we have a portable/versa-mountable inline bow & xbow press with reversible hanger assemblies, all slide adjustable modular components with a caution bar, vertical draw attachment, and horizontal draw/shooting machine. I'll cover details and measurements once I figure out if I should do it here or a separate "add on" thread. The shooting machine attachmentsconsist of a sleeve with a pivot point, a sleeve and receiver arm with winch attached, and a sleeve with hangar assembly attached. These can be added to all the various press versions with simple modifications.


I'm looking for details on building the bow holder for the mechanical shooter? did it miss it some place?


----------



## 92safari

The browser is the pic issue.. chrome or firefox.. had same issue midthread..


----------



## tommy8553

Just finished. Fun project


----------



## 92safari

Steel185 said:


> I'm looking for details on building the bow holder for the mechanical shooter? did it miss it some place?


http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1489937&page=56
Post #1396 has pics, but I put up some drawings back in the 40's somewhere..


----------



## 92safari

Sweet!!


----------



## cmwise

I have one of the cheap harbor freight welders, as long as you have some welding experience it will work just fine for any project.


----------



## 92safari

cmwise said:


> I have one of the cheap harbor freight welders, as long as you have some welding experience it will work just fine for any project.


Exactly.. And projects like this are perfect for learning to weld.. make your own components, try different ideas... if it doesn't work out; then nothing lost.. just slide it off and try something else..


----------



## Steel185

cmwise said:


> I have one of the cheap harbor freight welders, as long as you have some welding experience it will work just fine for any project.


It goes in the same boat, I started with a chop saw and "got it done" but quickly moved up to a harbor fright horizontal band saw. Much sharper and squarer cuts. Making it much easier to weld. I'd recommend to anyone, metal cutting band saw. I found mine on e-bay for $50 it was 10 miles from my house, I got lucky, but don't shy away from a harbor freight band saw.

I think all the 4x6" band saws are made by the same company some place in China, then sold to other suppliers that paint them different colors and their name stamped on it. So the trick is to find one at the best price. The best part is it cuts on it own, leaving me able to grind or weld while it's cutting the next piece. Doubling my speed.


----------



## wvrednk

Dude!! These instructions are awesome!! The press looks great!
Thanks!
Replying so I can find this thread later when I start mine. :wink:


----------



## 92safari

Still have a few finger sets listed in the classifieds..


----------



## jamiereal99

What do guys use for the rubber dip on the finger tips

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


----------



## tommy8553

Plasti dip . I did 4 coats on mine

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

I like 4 coats (need 2 cans) of plasti-Dip and let cure at least 4 days..


----------



## 138104

Jeff1815 said:


> Ok got my press painted and fingers dipped also put plastic plugs in tubing. Really enjoyed the build
> View attachment 4196714
> View attachment 4196722
> View attachment 4196730
> View attachment 4196738


I'll take one...haha! Job well done!


----------



## AKDoug

Finally got mine done. I incorporated a rotator so I could check 2nd and 3rd access. I was going to incorporate a shooting machine into the design, but there are too many moving parts on this to give the accuracy I want. Since the ArcheryDezign winch is easily removable, I will build a shooting machine next, using that winch as well. Pics to follow. Need to resize...


----------



## AKDoug

My thinner gauge welding is pretty rusty. All I had was .045 wire and it shows.


----------



## 92safari

Sweet!! Good job.. Try the double finger on the outside of mounts with all 4 hair pins to the inside of mounts. Then you can just flip finger by removing the adjuster knob..


----------



## AKDoug

Thanks for the suggestion. None of my bows need the flipped finger, so I never thought of making it more convenient.


----------



## Jchilling

This is awesome. I have been looking to buy one but heck I can build it for way less. Love it.


----------



## 92safari

Heres the shorter xbow version you wanted to see bigike1121


----------



## tepen1987

Finally got mine finished. I had to teach myself how to powdercoat before I could assemble it all and that wasn't easy. But now I have a nice powdercoating setup and a nice oven I built for future projects. Thanks for the build info.









Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## mmeadow

Tt

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk


----------



## OKBOWHUNTER13

What's an average cost of a finished press when making one

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


----------



## mikear

OKBOWHUNTER13 said:


> What's an average cost of a finished press when making one
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


I have about $299 in this press with the caution bar and safari92's fingers


----------



## rich_cardoso

mikear said:


> I have about $299 in this press with the caution bar and safari92's fingers


Nice looking!!!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

You guys did GREAT!!.. Your presses turned out Awesome


----------



## stevenyoder.lil

Tagged

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## ezmethod

Tagged


----------



## Chevyman17

Tagged

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## RPAYNE3

Any of the hangers still available? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RPAYNE3

Any of the hangers still available 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RPAYNE3

To anyone that used the 5/16 knobs instead of the bent bolts for the adjustment levers... what shaft length did you use 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mikear

RPAYNE3 said:


> To anyone that used the 5/16 knobs instead of the bent bolts for the adjustment levers... what shaft length did you use
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I used 1" length. 3/4" would suffice if you want the knobs closer to the press. Pic for reference.


----------



## yotekilr

Thanks for the info


----------



## 92safari

They're ordered.. Would expect to have them mid Feb.. after all machined.. Singles, reversible drawstops, and doubles, and mounts..


----------



## 92safari

mikear said:


> I used 1" length. 3/4" would suffice if you want the knobs closer to the press. Pic for reference.


Heres the best deal I've found for the threaded knobs.. McmasterCarr...
(23) Black Polypropylene with Steel Stud (-15° to +125° F)
5/16"-18	3/4"	2 1/4"	7/8"	1/2"	1/4"	59625K78


----------



## 92safari

RPAYNE3 said:


> Any of the hangers still available
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


They're in.. Just waiting now for the blanks to be machined, drilled, and tapped.. Hopefully have them ready next week. Inside doubles, inside singles, and outside doubles with drawstop tips, side plate mounts as well..


----------



## Glenn58

Well I finally got the time to get the press built. Had the finger kit for well over a year. Built the finger assemblies on 2" tubing to slide over 1 3/4". Will paint the main assembly once the weather gets warm. Picked up some 2" and 1 3/4" endcaps I'll use once it's painted. Really happy with how it came out. Action is nice and smooth.

Thanks again 92 for the great finger kit!!!


----------



## 92safari

Very Nice.. Good job!!


----------



## Glenn58

One thing I should have mentioned regarding the "action" on the press...I used a piece of 1" PVC pipe cut to cover the length of the threaded rod, less 3/4". At the end of the tube I trimmed a 3" piece of foam pipe insulation to keep the PVC centered in the 1 3/4" tubing. This prevents the rod from "bouncing around in the square tube. This way you have the "nut" on one end holding the threaded rod centered in the tube and at the other end you have the foam holding the threaded rod housed in the length of PVC pipe. The PVC and foam insulation are recessed in about 3/4" so the square pipe end plugs that will fit in.


----------



## Glenn58

Seeing we're in for another snow storm...I decided to get ambitious and make "Draw Board" components for the new press.
So off to Harbor Freight to pick up a strap winch. 
http://www.harborfreight.com/1200-lb-capacity-hand-winch-62537.html

Fabricated a slide-on mount to easily put the winch on the press.

















Then fabed the bow handle post. Fortunately I had some 1 1/2" angle and a piece of 1 1/4" pipe. Welded the pipe onto the angle and it slides right into the 1 3/4" press mounting tube. Just dipped the handle in some Plasti-Dip left over from the fingers. 

















Here's the bow on the draw board. Works GREAT! Simple to setup and take down. I used 3/4" 10 threaded rod for my press so I can use the press to fine tune the draw.


----------



## Glenn58

On the winch I cut off the hook that came with it. I bought some nice stainless hardware from HD. I used some paracord to make a safety loop just in case the d-loop ever failed.


----------



## 92safari

Nice!! 1 tip on your snaphook; Use SS hook.. 5 times as strong.. Most general purpose hooks are only around 100#, and not designed to carry a load.... Looks like it worked out sweet.


----------



## Glenn58

Good point. I think I'll just use the clip I put on the strap. It was rated for 200#. Easy enough to hook onto the D Loop.


----------



## TEXASFAN85

What's everyone's general price spent on building this press just plain jane?


----------



## Glenn58

TEXASFAN85 said:


> What's everyone's general price spent on building this press just plain jane?


I spent $192.03 for everything less the finger kit. $48.04 of that was shipping. All items were purchased from McMaster Carr. Shipping cost was high due to the two 8' pieces of steel tubing. I bought the finger kit well over a year ago, I think I paid around $75. I spent another $28 to build the drawer board assembly. So as it stands right now, I'm all in for around $300.


----------



## 92safari

If you build from the thread, and buy your steel, jack, and hardware locally, and just build a basic fixed leg, fixed arm press; You should be able to keep everything just under $200..
6 ft @ 1 1/2" (approx. $20)
4ft @ 1 1/4" (aprox. $10)
1 jack (approx. $30)
1 complete finger kit ($130 2 singles & 2 doubles), ($140 4 doubles)..


----------



## 92safari

Standard reversible sets and double sets are done..


----------



## bahne

This is really cool!


----------



## TEXASFAN85

92safari said:


> If you build from the thread, and buy your steel, jack, and hardware locally, and just build a basic fixed leg, fixed arm press; You should be able to keep everything just under $200..
> 6 ft @ 1 1/2" (approx. $20)
> 4ft @ 1 1/4" (aprox. $10)
> 1 jack (approx. $30)
> 1 complete finger kit ($130 2 singles & 2 doubles), ($140 4 doubles)..


OK thanks got the jack stripped got a lot to do tomorrow but going to try and call around for tube tomorrow.


----------



## TEXASFAN85

Went and found square tube this morning only one place in town with it for 2 8 foot pieces it will run me $40 each.


----------



## 92safari

TEXASFAN85 said:


> Went and found square tube this morning only one place in town with it for 2 8 foot pieces it will run me $40 each.


Thats nuts!! Probably do better just ordering from Mcmaster Carr.. Try calling some fab shops and see if they have 4 footers, or drops, or maybe scrap yard,


----------



## colduke

92safari said:


> Thats nuts!! Probably do better just ordering from Mcmaster Carr.. Try calling some fab shops and see if they have 4 footers, or drops, or maybe scrap yard,


Do you have additional finger sets available or are they all spoken for?


----------



## 92safari

colduke said:


> Do you have additional finger sets available or are they all spoken for?


Plenty of both types..


----------



## colduke

92safari said:


> Thats nuts!! Probably do better just ordering from Mcmaster Carr.. Try calling some fab shops and see if they have 4 footers, or drops, or maybe scrap yard,


Ya it's usually about $2/foot locally. I bought nesting tube at McMaster. $300 plus another $30-50 to spend still for a few more bits for two presses, need the fingers too.heres the parts list. Have a Sunday into cutting, wiping, prepping and drilling. Need to trim the plate with the 1" holes in them to fit the tube and then it'll be time to weld it up. A little depressing seeing the cost of the tube now, but this was the easy route


----------



## Glenn58

For the "Spoke Handle" I bought mine from Grizzly. Cheaper than McMaster Carr. Total was $28.24.

Item	Price	Freight	Qty	Item Total
H3189 - Cast Iron Handwheel - 6" $12.50	
H3205 - Chromed Handle - 4" x 3/8"-16 $5.75	
Shipping $9.99


----------



## colduke

Yeah I considered that too and at one point had a shopping list of the best places to get everything. $7 is $7, you know. It's almost an extra arrow shaft. I was saving maybe $20 all in all for each press...finally figured "just place the order and be done with it". The rubber coating in my screenshots there is just plasti-dip too...I felt a little ripped off about that. I have some, for crying out loud, I wanted some super fancy high end stuff that'll be outlawed in California by years end. Oh well.


----------



## Glenn58

Coldduke...
I originally bought the same thrust bearings as you, however I noticed the dynamic thrust load was only 50#.









I ended up using PN 5909K33 and PN 5909K46 for the washers.

This needle roller thrust bearing has a much higher load capacity...


----------



## TEXASFAN85

92safari said:


> Thats nuts!! Probably do better just ordering from Mcmaster Carr.. Try calling some fab shops and see if they have 4 footers, or drops, or maybe scrap yard,


Yea that was my thoughts to I checked with 3 fab shops and local welding supply store everyone said there the only place local to get any kind of square stock from they didn't stock any quarter sizes like 1 1/4 or 1 3/4 and don't stock any 14 GA at all everything was next at best to get it.


----------



## 92safari

TEXASFAN85 said:


> Yea that was my thoughts to I checked with 3 fab shops and local welding supply store everyone said there the only place local to get any kind of square stock from they didn't stock any quarter sizes like 1 1/4 or 1 3/4 and don't stock any 14 GA at all everything was next at best to get it.


Give me a zip code and how elaborate a set up you're wanting to build and I'll see what I can do a cut kit for.. PM me though.. So its not a sale thing on this build thread.. not permitted..


----------



## Glenn58

The McMaster Carr 12 ga tubing fits perfect without having to worry about the weld seams and using spacers. They telescope perfectly. Worth it!!!


----------



## colduke

Glenn58 said:


> Coldduke...
> I originally bought the same thrust bearings as you, however I noticed the dynamic thrust load was only 50#.
> 
> View attachment 5582001
> 
> 
> I ended up using PN 5909K33 and PN 5909K46 for the washers.
> 
> This needle roller thrust bearing has a much higher load capacity...
> 
> View attachment 5582009


Thanks, I'll check that out!


----------



## colduke

Glenn58 said:


> Coldduke...
> I originally bought the same thrust bearings as you, however I noticed the dynamic thrust load was only 50#.
> 
> View attachment 5582001
> 
> 
> I ended up using PN 5909K33 and PN 5909K46 for the washers.
> 
> This needle roller thrust bearing has a much higher load capacity...
> 
> View attachment 5582009


Thanks, I'll check that out!


----------



## TEXASFAN85

Ok on update girl working counter other day must have mixed up and some how doubled the price guy called me to day price was $52 after tax and charge for 2 cuts since they were 20 foot pieces got ruff measurements cut this evening going to clean the ends up a little and drill all my holes next week.


----------



## Glenn58

Funny how thing "evolve" as you start to use them. After fabricating the winch mount to use the press as a draw board, I decided I wanted to be able to use it without having to remove the finger assembly. I decided to make a mount similiar to the opposite end which supports the bow, where it is inserted into the tubing. Once the winch was mounted to the support bracket, the engagement lever was hitting the finger assembly. I decided to cut and relocate it. So a quick cut and weld, and all is good.

Old winch assembly slides over 1 3/4" tubing.








New winch mount bracket.








Winch mount bracket 1 1/2" angle fits perfectly in the 1 3/4" tubing.








Winch assembly in place and clears the finger assembly and bow.


----------



## 92safari

Good job..


----------



## mgrahamcracker9

Awesome and easy to follow. Thanks


----------



## Glenn58

Picked up a bow vise and wanted to integrate it with the press. Decided to use the same approach as with the other accessories.
Started with the 1 1/2" angle and welded a piece of 1 3/4" tubing to it. Then I slid it into the press tube and then took a piece of 2" tubing and slid that over the 1 3/4" tube. I adjusted the 2" tube so it overlapped the 1 3/4" press tube. Once in place I welded it to the vice bracket assembly. This way when the bow vise assembly is slid in place, it overlaps the press arm tube. Just have to grab some yellow paint to complete the project.

I have the 1 1/2" angle positioned so I can take the vise assembly as a separate assembly and clamp it to a table. 

This has been a FUN project!!! :banana:


----------



## Mark S C

that doesn't look too hard


----------



## colduke

trimmed and squared up all of the material a couple of weekends ago, spent this past weekend working on my steel tig. Unfortunately ran out of argon so I just reupped yesterday. Building two presses, have 3 of 4 L's welded, one of the nuts welded on, and the adjustable catch bars are both assembled. Got another order from McMaster in yesterday too (it's great having them so close that after I order Tuesday night they show up Wednesday morning!) with weld in threaded inserts for the thumb bolts for the catch bars. Nothing scheduled this weekend so I should hopefully get these built before I have to hit the road for work next week.

The plans I'm building off of came from AT but I don't know who to attribute them to. I've got a 3 pdf set showing assembly and a parts list and cut sheet as well. I went with 2" and 1.75" instead of 1.75" and 1.5" as the plans indicate, not sure why, and a couple of minor tweaks. I ended up ordering the needle bearings so generously suggested a page ago in place of the plastic ones I had acquired that were indicated in these plans.


----------



## stanmc55

iluvgear1 said:


> If that is true, and I have no reason to believe it is not, it would appear LCA is pretty quick to have their attorney fire out the threatening letters, but they are always keeping their eye out to get their hands on someone else's intellectual property


That cat is walking both directions! Lol


REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


----------



## Glenn58

colduke said:


> The plans I'm building off of came from AT but I don't know who to attribute them to.


Those TIG welds certainly do look pretty!!!
I've seen those plans on AT as well. Are you using Safari92's fingers or cutting your own?


----------



## colduke

haha thanks, still trying to find the balance between undercutting through too much heat and pillowy beads through too much filler. I think I need to get the thinner filler rod, like 14 gauge wire thin. This is 3/32" I think. 
Will probably end up cutting my own because I'm cheap. I'm realizing I should have just spent the $400 on the green LCA press instead of spending three weekends to save $200, but I enjoy the process and a buddy gets a press this way too and it's time spent practicing on the tig machine. I'm hoping I can get a neighbor to help teach me to use his mill to cut them out.


----------



## Glenn58

I'm like you...half the fun is just building stuff!!!
My nephew has a TIG and it's a whole different world.
A MIG can make us weekend warriors look like we know what we're doing! :darkbeer:


----------



## 92safari

colduke said:


> haha thanks, still trying to find the balance between undercutting through too much heat and pillowy beads through too much filler. I think I need to get the thinner filler rod, like 14 gauge wire thin. This is 3/32" I think.
> Will probably end up cutting my own because I'm cheap. I'm realizing I should have just spent the $400 on the green LCA press instead of spending three weekends to save $200, but I enjoy the process and a buddy gets a press this way too and it's time spent practicing on the tig machine. I'm hoping I can get a neighbor to help teach me to use his mill to cut them out.


Welds sure look a lot prettier than mine..Lol
Nice


----------



## stanmc55

After finding this thread I am really kicking myself. I ordered acme threaded rod instead of using a trailer jack. That rod and the nuts are EXPENSIVE!!!!! And they don't give the handwheels away either.

Oh well, live and learn......


REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


----------



## 92safari

stanmc55 said:


> After finding this thread I am really kicking myself. I ordered acme threaded rod instead of using a trailer jack. That rod and the nuts are EXPENSIVE!!!!! And they don't give the handwheels away either.
> 
> Oh well, live and learn......
> 
> 
> REMEMBER the ALAMO!!!


Yeah... I went through all the scenarios and whittled everything down to the least expensive, most efficient ways I could.. Found everything needed in a jack with good strong rod and bearings, only modifying the nut a bit. The sliding tail piece makes pressing a lot faster and more versatile, and no need for a long rod. The fingers and mount plates are most expensive part since everything is outsourced for laser cutting and machining, but those are most important part and didn't want to hog out plain jane, generic straight, minimally functional fingers.. As versatile, functional, and adjustable as possible is the goal.. right?


----------



## Glenn58

stanmc55 said:


> After finding this thread I am really kicking myself. I ordered acme threaded rod instead of using a trailer jack. That rod and the nuts are EXPENSIVE!!!!! And they don't give the handwheels away either.
> 
> Oh well, live and learn......


Since when do we worry about money in this sport??? 
It's very simple...repeat after me..."I SEE...I LIKE...I BUY!" :rock:


----------



## brickwallross

Tagged

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Tidestar

Some real solid work by all!!


----------



## Glenn58

colduke...hows the press coming along???


----------



## 92safari

colduke said:


> haha thanks, still trying to find the balance between undercutting through too much heat and pillowy beads through too much filler. I think I need to get the thinner filler rod, like 14 gauge wire thin. This is 3/32" I think.
> Will probably end up cutting my own because I'm cheap. I'm realizing I should have just spent the $400 on the green LCA press instead of spending three weekends to save $200, but I enjoy the process and a buddy gets a press this way too and it's time spent practicing on the tig machine. I'm hoping I can get a neighbor to help teach me to use his mill to cut them out.


Your going to end up with a better quality press in the end.. All you get is thin steel and a piece of all thread the other route.. Good luck and let see some of your progress on the way


----------



## colduke

92safari said:


> Your going to end up with a better quality press in the end.. All you get is thin steel and a piece of all thread the other route.. Good luck and let see some of your progress on the way


Thanks man, appreciate that insight. Happy with the way it's turned out so far. Nearing the finish line. Reminded me that I need to order some brass bushing, I oversized the hole the acme thread is passing through and want to remove some of that slop. 
















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Glenn58

colduke...

I like the adjustable "bow support". It's something I thought I might want to add later so I made my legs removable. At the time I wasn't sure if the "pipe arms" needed to be adjustable both vertically and horizontally. I also wasn't sure if the spread between the legs provided enough horizontal adjustment. I just bought a new Evolve 35 and used the press in getting it setup and tuned (worked great). I'll have to put in on the press and get some measurements on where the bow support arms would need to be.


----------



## colduke

The first press, I had just enough movement in the legs that I could barely drive the cross bar off with a dead blow. I trimmed it all down but had already moved on and welded the feet plates on. I started to weld on some tubes so as to cut the ends open and then bolt them back in place but ended up moving on, it was taking too much time. Hemmed and hawed over attempting it again with the second press and went for it and just shimmed the legs a little differently, and it works great. So, one buddy will be using the Hoyt fingers and won't exactly need the cross bar, so he'll get that one. Good point about positioning, hadn't really thought them through all that much


----------



## 92safari

Thats why I went with the adjustable caution bar. Can set the pins up to cradle the bow, or lock it it place, and adjustment range that covers the whole length of the press.. The vertical draw tower just drops into the caution bar..


----------



## Glenn58

92safari said:


> Thats why I went with the adjustable caution bar. Can set the pins up to cradle the bow, or lock it it place, and adjustment range that covers the whole length of the press.. The vertical draw tower just drops into the caution bar..


:thumbs_up
That's what I was envisioning...adjustable in X and Y axis.


----------



## colduke

son of a gun...now I get it!


----------



## RatherBArchery

I found the cheapest/quickest way to build a press is to just buy a drop leg end crank trailer jack, I use the ProSeries brand jacks that are rated at 8,000lbs. They have tight enough tolerance to not make a sloppy press but can usually be found for $65 or less. Once I have one on hand I can usually turn out a press in 4 hours. Only issue using these jacks is the internal threads are backwards so you cannot follow the "righty tighty" principal when using.......


----------



## colduke

I drilled an oversized hole for the acme thread. There was a lot of slop. I mcmastered some oil impregnated bronze stepped sleeves and now it's a tight little package. Also put another clamp collar at the other end where the acme thread swung a little wild from a not perfectly square nut.


----------



## Glenn58

colduke...which sleeve didi you use? I drilled my 3/4" rod hole and then tack welded a washer on the outside. I like the bushing idea much better!


----------



## colduke

6338K431
It could potentially cause some movement but it was a snuuuug fit, snug enough to shrink the ID a touch. I could pound the acme through, or just hit it with a few passes of a file and it slipped in. Thought about trimming the bronze down to an appropriate width/depth, but haven't gotten my bandsaw all dialed in. Parts showed up Friday while I was at the rinehart shoot, get to play with that tomorrow night


----------



## 92safari

*Crossbow Press*

Figured I'd post this for guys looking more to xbows.. Same basic design sort of..lol Using the collapsable legs on a sleeve from my Monster Pac-Presses. Went without a sliding tail piece though.. Made it compact at 24" in collapsed state. Sleeved fingers so they can also be used on a shop press. Max length 28", min length roughly 13".. Grab and go if a xbower..


----------



## 944storm

Ordered up a set of the fingers that Bill makes and they are on their way! Started getting stuff cut up and had my son helping get the legs done. The acme screw is ready to go into the arm, but there is only one problem..... I need to get more steel!









Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk


----------



## colduke

92safari said:


> Figured I'd post this for guys looking more to xbows.. Same basic design sort of..lol Using the collapsable legs on a sleeve from my Monster Pac-Presses. Went without a sliding tail piece though.. Made it compact at 24" in collapsed state. Sleeved fingers so they can also be used on a shop press. Max length 28", min length roughly 13".. Grab and go if a xbower..


oh those legs are rad!


----------



## 944storm

How tall is the draw bar? I'm thinking 36" should be good, but want to make sure that will work. 

Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

mY TOTAL LENGTH IS 58".. ALLOWS FOR HOIST AND 32" dl BOWS..


----------



## 92safari

i'LL POST PICS OF THE WHOLE TOWER ASSEMBLY WHEN HOME THIS AFTERNOON.


----------



## 944storm

OK, Thank you. Much appreciated!


----------



## 92safari

Heres a quick scribble. Hope it helps. The draw tower then just drops into the up right tube of the caution bar and pinned at the bottom. The hole locations will just depend on if you use plastic tube caps or not, and you can shim the inner tubes if desired. I took several pics of the off set bow pivot as it looks a little tricky, but really simple.. This off set lets the hoist draw straight up with the bow in it. You can use knobs where you see temporary set screw bolts. The holes I use are 5/16" and I use 1/4" thru pins to secure tower to caution bar at the bottom, and the height adjustment in the upper tube holes. Highest hole will allow for 32" draw length, and I just drill 6 more lower holes an inch apart.. This leaves an 8" tube overlap. Pivot pin is 1/2" x 7" with rubber over it. I just hang a typical gambriel hoist from the top. You can use the nylon rope, but I prefer a 5/16" braided rope myself.. On the modular press both arms slide so I just crank the tail piece over a bit and slide the right hand arm over a bit so nothing interferes with the cams while drawing.. Makes tuning yokes a lot easier than putting bow in and out of the press, and makes setting up drop away rests much easier too.. You can play with it and pimp things out how you like from here, but this gets the ball rolling..


----------



## 92safari

more..


----------



## 944storm

Thank you! That helps! By the way, I got the fingers and they are works of art! Just waiting for my metal to arrive!

Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk


----------



## colduke

So I finally sucked it up and just ordered the fingers from our gracious host here. By the time I bought aluminum and had everything cut it wasn't going to save me any money....I was looking to make standard fingers and some Hoyt style fingers. Add in labor hours and hours and hours and it really didn't make sense. I could have used a grinder and a jig saw or kept fussing with this bandsaw to get a clean cut but again, hours and hours. The buddy I'm building the second press for is going to buy a set of 92safari fingers as well, along with the recently unveiled rope and clamp apparatus for beyond parallel bows so that he can press both styles. I have no intention of helping others  

Anyhow, got back from a week in NY and picked them up from the office, welded them on today. Pressed some slack into the bow for giggles and now it's time to get some paint on this bad boy. 

If I made another I'd make it longer. There's 5" or so of room left to extend the arm when I press munch Halon X. Not a whole lot, but should be enough for a target bow I imagine. Not enough for fully relaxing limbs I'm guessing, however. 

Assembled the fingers as per photos he's posted before. The order didn't make sense until I got it all mounted and realized it'll make flipping that double arm with the draw stop relief super easy. So, just follow his example.


----------



## douglasjwood

There must be a reason, but I don't see it. Why can't you use straight press fingers? I.e., instead of up at a 45° angle? You could still have the same limb tip contact if made right, and it would be way simpler. I could see the press having to be a few inches taller off the bench. Most modules would be easier to access the screws. With my BTX31, I know it would work perfectly since it has the blocks on the limb tips. Other bows would just need a groove. Anyone try this?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## colduke

I think it's for clearance, so that the arm of the finger isn't pressing on the limb. More of a problem with parallel limbs than with something like a Mathews C4. Pressing my Halon X in the pics just above, I'm not going to be pressing far enough to get contact and purely vertical fingers would probably clear, but with limb angles more parallel than this, I think there may be some contact.


----------



## colduke

started painting last night. Will start dipping the fingers tonight. Debating how long I want to wait to let the paint cure before I really assemble and start using it...I do have the thin plastic slider tape to lay down to fill the bit of gap between the inner and outer tube, but it would be nice to really let the paint cure nice and hard before I start dinging it up. I don't NEED to press my bow right now, but I am about ready to order up some strings, would be nice to swap my peep, but I can also just drill it out slightly...  Cut the catch bar off too. May modify the press with something longer in the future but what I built there wouldn't do much

View attachment 5954057


----------



## 92safari

colduke said:


> I think it's for clearance, so that the arm of the finger isn't pressing on the limb. More of a problem with parallel limbs than with something like a Mathews C4. Pressing my Halon X in the pics just above, I'm not going to be pressing far enough to get contact and purely vertical fingers would probably clear, but with limb angles more parallel than this, I think there may be some contact.


You don't have your adjuster screws in the fingers so they tip all the way back.. Centered or tipped forward works fine on preloaded limbs..


----------



## douglasjwood

colduke said:


> I think it's for clearance, so that the arm of the finger isn't pressing on the limb. More of a problem with parallel limbs than with something like a Mathews C4. Pressing my Halon X in the pics just above, I'm not going to be pressing far enough to get contact and purely vertical fingers would probably clear, but with limb angles more parallel than this, I think there may be some contact.


Think 90° from what you thought I meant. i.e., in line with the direction of travel, not perpendicular. Look at how much contact the limb makes with the normal fingers. Notice the 45° angle can block some screws. Straight in line could/would have the same limb contact and not obstruct the screws. As I mentioned above, you would need to raise the press slightly.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## colduke

douglasjwood said:


> Think 90° from what you thought I meant. i.e., in line with the direction of travel, not perpendicular. Look at how much contact the limb makes with the normal fingers. Notice the 45° angle can block some screws. Straight in line could/would have the same limb contact and not obstruct the screws. As I mentioned above, you would need to raise the press slightly.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


Ahhh yes, I've wondered that as well, hehe. There is a press that is built that way. The spike or something like that. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## colduke

92safari said:


> You don't have your adjuster screws in the fingers so they tip all the way back.. Centered or tipped forward works fine on preloaded limbs..


Ya, just put an order in for them at McMaster actually  couldn't just grab some plain old hex heads from the bin, went with some textured brass thumbscrews 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

Lol... Schweet..


----------



## douglasjwood

The spike press. Just looked it up. That is what I was thinking! They also did one more thing I was thinking of, and made a specific pinned set of spikes for the Bowtech. Dang, always a day late to the game!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## Hoythunter01

If anyone can ahold of 92safari.....

Let him know he can't accept any more PM messages. His inbox is full.

Trying to make a deal with him and I can't send him the message to agree on the deal.


----------



## douglasjwood

Try his email address. Don't remember it, but it is located in this long post somewhere. Something like muzzleloader99, or similar.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## Hoythunter01

Thanks Brother....

He cleaned house and was able to make the deal. Thank You !!


----------



## douglasjwood

Good deal! Bill is a wealth of information. Glad he's on here!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## nugly1971

Interested in the cost hangers pm me please

Sent from my C6743 using Tapatalk


----------



## colduke

Oh man it's lookin so good! Trying to let the paint cure before I scratch it all up, should have just powdercoated it, but couldn't resist when the plugs came in for the tube ends. Got the UHMW tape on the internal tube as well, slides nice and quiet, very little play in the system. I should've gone in and gotten the scissors though instead of half assing it and using a razor blade. Story of my life.


----------



## 92safari

Boy... She's really looking nice


----------



## txaggie07

Saving this for a future project! Very nice 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DUGGIE

pm sent


----------



## Oklahoma33

colduke said:


> Oh man it's lookin so good! Trying to let the paint cure before I scratch it all up, should have just powdercoated it, but couldn't resist when the plugs came in for the tube ends. Got the UHMW tape on the internal tube as well, slides nice and quiet, very little play in the system. I should've gone in and gotten the scissors though instead of half assing it and using a razor blade. Story of my life.


Where did you get your fingers from? Are those the fingers that allow you to press a bow with draw stops and not have to remove them? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## douglasjwood

Send a pm to 92safari and ask about the fingers. Yes, they can handle limb stops (flip them over).

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## douglasjwood

Just got my order from McMasters. By the end of the weekend I should have a working press!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## douglasjwood

Well, as posted above, I got all my parts last week. I opted for fixed posts to press with, since I only work on my own bows. I slightly dished the ends of the posts, so the bow will not slip out. I have 3 more places to put additional spacing posts on, just by rotating the tubing. Nothing fancy. Had to press the bow just to try it. It works great. I need to either get a wheel from McMasters, or, an attachment for my small impact to turn it with. To test it, I just used a ratchet. I am so happy I made this. I spaced it so I can go down to crossbows, and also out long enough to press my 48" old tank if needed. Just need to wipe it down, put a coat of paint on it, and dip the fingers. Project almost complete.









Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## colduke

I have no experience to base this on, but the dish on those fingers doesn't look to be substantial enough to really keep them from popping out if they get a little tweaked or something. Clever design though! I like the idea of 4 different sets of posts for different size bows. I wish I'd built mine a little longer for fully relaxing a box, a little worried about being able to do that with my Halon X. I MIGHT try to pick up a TRG or something this winter, something tells me it won't work, but we'll see

I got to use my blue press for the first time this morning. Wife's cousin from MN flew to CA to shoot a 3D, had never even heard of them even though he's shot his whole life. Not even 1/3 through the D loop broke and he derailed! Bummed for him, but we got him all back together this morning and shot better than ever right afterwards. Worked great!


----------



## douglasjwood

I know the dish isn't much, but even without the plastic dip, I couldn't move the bow when I compressed it. I actually planned to put pins in the bars to secure the bow, but didn't have that stuff ready. I may do that in the future, may not as the press works great just the way it is. I do have to weld on another set of fingers for the kids bow. The reason I put the fingers the way I did, was that it seems to have more access to the screws on the cams. I am thinking I will also add a caution bar. Could certainly add some draw attachments simply enough.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## douglasjwood

Got an adapter for my cordless impact to turn the press. Works like a charm.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

*portable press*

Here's one of the modulars set up with the collapsable legs..


----------



## douglasjwood

Finally got to paint and dip my press. Green and hold, Green Bay Packer colors!😁 Waiting for to to dry, then back on the wall. I will let it cure for a day or so before I use it. I only dipped the last inch or so of the fingers. That is the only part that comes incontact with my bow. Now for "G" and a Bowtech sticker and she will be complete! Again many thanks to this thread. Drew a lot of good info here to make this project. I also included a pic of the small chain steering wheel, that I am going to weld to a socket, instead of using the impact/ socket wrench to operate the press.









Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## 1huntelk

douglasjwood said:


> Finally got to paint and dip my press. Green and hold, Green Bay Packer colors!😁 Waiting for to to dry, then back on the wall. I will let it cure for a day or so before I use it. I only dipped the last inch or so of the fingers. That is the only part that comes incontact with my bow. Now for "G" and a Bowtech sticker and she will be complete! Again many thanks to this thread. Drew a lot of good info here to make this project. I also included a pic of the small chain steering wheel, that I am going to weld to a socket, instead of using the impact/ socket wrench to operate the press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


Very nice. GO PACK!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## b0w_bender

Really nicely done press the chail link wheel is fantastic!. I think you have the wrong colors though, should be blue and chartreuse.... Go HAAWKS


----------



## b0w_bender

92safari said:


> Here's one of the modulars set up with the collapsable legs..


I love the folding design well done!


----------



## douglasjwood

Had the chain steering wheel laying around. I was debating getting a wheel from McMasters, but that would have been $35+ shipping. Figured this one looked cooler and served the same purpose!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## tirving

Has anyone created a pivoting attachment for the press and shooting machine set-up to do 3rd axis adjustments at full draw?
Something like Last Chance's pivoting set up on their deluxe presses?


----------



## tirving

Sorry, was a duplicate Tapatalk is acting wonky.


----------



## the_acadian

Great thread. Have been wanting to build one of these for a long time.


----------



## colduke

ahahah love the chain wheel, that's a great touch. 

I let mine sit for about a month before anything came up to use it with, and I'm glad I did. The paint is proving to be much more durable than if I'd just started using it. Nowhere near really durable, but it's held up through a few trips to the range, getting clamped to a bench, tool box tucked between the legs in the back seat of the truck.... It's SO nice being able to pop in my own peep, add a twist to fix peep rotation, even just holding the bow in place while I tie nocking points and D loop knots. Thanks for the fingers, they've been solid! Ordering some of the Unigram adapters for a buddy shortly


----------



## Oklahoma33

Thanks to this thread I was able to make my own press. Pictures to follow. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Oklahoma33

All I am lacking is the handle for width adjustment and the bolts to keep the caution bar in place. 

Eventually I will add a draw board to the front of this. I considered a shooter also, but I ran out of ambition. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## douglasjwood

I actually use mine as a draw board just the way it is. I manually draw the bow, then finish by extending the press. works great, and no additions. I can take a picture tomorrow showing what I mean.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## Mwit

looks good


----------



## brandonjb

Subscribed


----------



## stevemend0za

colduke said:


> So I finally sucked it up and just ordered the fingers from our gracious host here. By the time I bought aluminum and had everything cut it wasn't going to save me any money....I was looking to make standard fingers and some Hoyt style fingers. Add in labor hours and hours and hours and it really didn't make sense. I could have used a grinder and a jig saw or kept fussing with this bandsaw to get a clean cut but again, hours and hours. The buddy I'm building the second press for is going to buy a set of 92safari fingers as well, along with the recently unveiled rope and clamp apparatus for beyond parallel bows so that he can press both styles. I have no intention of helping others
> 
> Anyhow, got back from a week in NY and picked them up from the office, welded them on today. Pressed some slack into the bow for giggles and now it's time to get some paint on this bad boy.
> 
> If I made another I'd make it longer. There's 5" or so of room left to extend the arm when I press munch Halon X. Not a whole lot, but should be enough for a target bow I imagine. Not enough for fully relaxing limbs I'm guessing, however.
> 
> Assembled the fingers as per photos he's posted before. The order didn't make sense until I got it all mounted and realized it'll make flipping that double arm with the draw stop relief super easy. So, just follow his example.


Where did you order the fingers from

Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk


----------



## stevemend0za

colduke said:


> So I finally sucked it up and just ordered the fingers from our gracious host here. By the time I bought aluminum and had everything cut it wasn't going to save me any money....I was looking to make standard fingers and some Hoyt style fingers. Add in labor hours and hours and hours and it really didn't make sense. I could have used a grinder and a jig saw or kept fussing with this bandsaw to get a clean cut but again, hours and hours. The buddy I'm building the second press for is going to buy a set of 92safari fingers as well, along with the recently unveiled rope and clamp apparatus for beyond parallel bows so that he can press both styles. I have no intention of helping others
> 
> Anyhow, got back from a week in NY and picked them up from the office, welded them on today. Pressed some slack into the bow for giggles and now it's time to get some paint on this bad boy.
> 
> If I made another I'd make it longer. There's 5" or so of room left to extend the arm when I press munch Halon X. Not a whole lot, but should be enough for a target bow I imagine. Not enough for fully relaxing limbs I'm guessing, however.
> 
> Assembled the fingers as per photos he's posted before. The order didn't make sense until I got it all mounted and realized it'll make flipping that double arm with the draw stop relief super easy. So, just follow his example.


How much are the fingers? 

Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk


----------



## tirving

stevemend0za said:


> How much are the fingers?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk


Look back on the last page about contact info. Also, read this thread a bit more about some of the issues with certain folks making fingers and worrying about getting in trouble for doing it.


----------



## Oklahoma33

douglasjwood said:


> I actually use mine as a draw board just the way it is. I manually draw the bow, then finish by extending the press. works great, and no additions. I can take a picture tomorrow showing what I mean.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


This kind of sounds sketchy. Does it worry you at all?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## douglasjwood

Oklahoma33 said:


> This kind of sounds sketchy. Does it worry you at all?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not one bit. Works great. I have all the stuff to make a nice draw board, but tried this and it works great. The number of times I actually need to use the draw board is minimal. I will build my draw board later, after I find the perfect spot for it. Until then, the press works great. I have enough travel to draw full length, but that would take forever. That's why I draw 3/4 or so manually.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## colduke

Yeah, no reason it wouldn't work. My press is super stable. The only problem I've been having is the brass bushing isn't held in place and I had some gap between the collar clamps and the wheel, so I keep pressing the bushing out and have a few turns of the wheel before the arm starts to move in or out. Terrible description. I could have prevented it by setting the inner collar position so there was no gap between the outer collar and the wheel. I ground the head of the bolt on the inner collar so it would spin in the inner arm, so I can't move that now. I need to trim the acme thread down so the wheel can mount closer to the outer clamp. This probably won't make much sense unless you have the same setup but hopefully if you build with the bushing, you'll start seeing it. I'd like to build another one with a longer setup. I'm not sure I could break down my 35" Halon X. I don't think there's enough travel? Haven't tried though


----------



## douglasjwood

I welded a nut to the inside on the acme rod, then a washer. O the outside, a washer, then another nut. Drilled that nut and placed a roll pin in it. So I can always take it apart if needed.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## douglasjwood

So glad I finally built the press. So simple. Indispensable for tuning, and only took me a couple of hours. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## blarney22

Tag

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## colduke

ah mannnn I went to press some guys Hoyt target bow and the press was too short! I'm going to give this one to the buddy I was building the second for, he'll only work on hunting bows, and I'm going to rebuild the extending arm on his for myself with some more length. Need to order up a second finger kit. Not sure if I posted here but I got the Uni-Gram adapters for him as well, they're nicer than I expected. Handing over this weekend so should get some feedback soon, he's got a bum bearing on the lower cam, needs to open it up and get a replacement spec'ed out.


----------



## tirving

Has anyone used this on their build?
http://archerydezign.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=54


----------



## colduke

colduke said:


> ah mannnn I went to press some guys Hoyt target bow and the press was too short! I'm going to give this one to the buddy I was building the second for, he'll only work on hunting bows, and I'm going to rebuild the extending arm on his for myself with some more length. Need to order up a second finger kit. Not sure if I posted here but I got the Uni-Gram adapters for him as well, they're nicer than I expected. Handing over this weekend so should get some feedback soon, he's got a bum bearing on the lower cam, needs to open it up and get a replacement spec'ed out.


So we did the swaparoo and the press isn't long enough to completely relax a carbon defiant either, so I just ordered some more 1.75" nesting tube and am going to extend the arm 11", that'll give 20" of travel, beyond that I'd need to rebuild the base. A little bummed, but I just made the mistake of assuming whoever had drawn up the plans I used had thought it all the way through. So, if you've got those CAD drawings with red, yellow, blue components, and a parts list at the end, made up of a couple of PDF's, just be aware you can't fully relax the bow or use a long ATA target bow.


----------



## Kaizoku

colduke said:


> So we did the swaparoo and the press isn't long enough to completely relax a carbon defiant either, so I just ordered some more 1.75" nesting tube and am going to extend the arm 11", that'll give 20" of travel, beyond that I'd need to rebuild the base. A little bummed, but I just made the mistake of assuming whoever had drawn up the plans I used had thought it all the way through. So, if you've got those CAD drawings with red, yellow, blue components, and a parts list at the end, made up of a couple of PDF's, just be aware you can't fully relax the bow or use a long ATA target bow.


Can you post a picture of your press? You probably have one in this thread but I'm not going to go through all these pages to find it. I just want to see what you are working with.


----------



## douglasjwood

I built mine so I could extend it out quite a eays, just in case I needed to completely relax a bow.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## tirving

douglasjwood said:


> I built mine so I could extend it out quite a eays, just in case I needed to completely relax a bow.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


How much length is needed with bows that have 34-36" ATAs? Mine extends to 50"


----------



## douglasjwood

I just measured mine. Starting about 33" so I have a little left to press and remove strings, I can then extend to 57" if needed. I can't imagine needing even close to that to fully relax a bow.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## douglasjwood

I actually hit my wall before I fully extend to the 57".

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## tirving

douglasjwood said:


> I actually hit my wall before I fully extend to the 57".
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


That makes sense, I could just run a straight line down the length of my limbs to figure out how much I will need, probably no more than 4-6" more than ATA.


----------



## nuts&bolts

tirving said:


> How much length is needed with bows that have 34-36" ATAs? Mine extends to 50"


Fabric tape measure, or just scotch tape strips of paper together, to make a flexible ruler. Measure each limb length. Measure the length of the riser. Need to take into account limb pocket angle.


----------



## nuts&bolts

tirving said:


> How much length is needed with bows that have 34-36" ATAs? Mine extends to 50"












Strother Moxie. 38-inch ATA. 
Just completely relaxed my bow. 44.75-inches. Inside of finger to inside of finger.


----------



## tirving

nuts&bolts said:


> Strother Moxie. 38-inch ATA.
> Just completely relaxed my bow. 44.75-inches. Inside of finger to inside of finger.


Thanks!


----------



## 92safari

douglasjwood said:


> Not one bit. Works great. I have all the stuff to make a nice draw board, but tried this and it works great. The number of times I actually need to use the draw board is minimal. I will build my draw board later, after I find the perfect spot for it. Until then, the press works great. I have enough travel to draw full length, but that would take forever. That's why I draw 3/4 or so manually.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


Should try the vertical draw tower set up.. Once you can draw quickly between pressings; you'll find it real handy for tweaking draw weight, tuning yokes, synching cams,, string twists, draw length adj., etc.., and a lot safer


----------



## 92safari

nuts&bolts said:


> Fabric tape measure, or just scotch tape strips of paper together, to make a flexible ruler. Measure each limb length. Measure the length of the riser. Need to take into account limb pocket angle.


Generally I've found on old or new that 10" travel is enough to relax any bow (32" bow need 42" ext., 42" bow need 52" ext.., etc.)


----------



## 92safari

Kaizoku said:


> Can you post a picture of your press? You probably have one in this thread but I'm not going to go through all these pages to find it. I just want to see what you are working with.


I believe he built more along the line of gunners press plans as far as the actual press goes..


----------



## Unk Bond

Hello
Draw board. I use the bow press box tubing arms for my draw board.Quiet simple,
A plate a threaded rod for each arm and 2 piece of rubber hose.[ Later


----------



## douglasjwood

92safari, I will eventually, just haven't gotten to it yet. Have all the stiff to build it, except time.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## tcone1968

lookin good


----------



## davidpogue762

If you can eliminate welding lots more of us could build one. I would like to have a welder but too cheap to buy one and don't have friends who have one.


----------



## tirving

davidpogue762 said:


> If you can eliminate welding lots more of us could build one. I would like to have a welder but too cheap to buy one and don't have friends who have one.


If you could build as versatile a press as this one, without welding, and without costing about the same as a retail press, I am pretty sure it would have been done already. 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

davidpogue762 said:


> If you can eliminate welding lots more of us could build one. I would like to have a welder but too cheap to buy one and don't have friends who have one.


Way back at the start; that was the point.. Just a small $100 hobby welder would get you started. Perfect project to teach yourself a handy new skill  Once you have one; you find things to fix and toy with.. No reason that anyone here couldn't experiment with their own rendition of add ons, improvements, up grades, stands, mounts, hitch mounts, swivels, etc...etc.. Just by using the same mounting setup and sleeves... A bolt together kit would be possible, but probably not economical as far as fabrication and machining involved in something decent that could be bolted together, effective, and safe enough for someone thats new to bow mechanics..... Might be worth $100 to open up a whole new avenue of projects


----------



## 92safari

Website in progress.. (hopefully by the end of this month).. Believe it will be alecarte' with all the modular assemblies for both the inlines and radial style presses available individually to piece together whatever you want as you want it.. Pieces, parts, kits, etc..


----------



## tirving

92safari said:


> Website in progress.. (hopefully by the end of this month).. Believe it will be alecarte' with all the modular assemblies for both the inlines and radial style presses available individually to piece together whatever you want as you want it.. Pieces, parts, kits, etc..


I love this idea. Look forward to seeing the website, and probably ordering more stuff 

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


----------



## Sandskipper

Keep posted, especially when it's up, need to order some hangers. Most excellent thread.


----------



## 92safari

Sandskipper said:


> Keep posted, especially when it's up, need to order some hangers. Most excellent thread.


Those are in the classifieds.. (limited supply).. Should be able to click on my username to get to all my listings, posts, etc. This is where I post how to make what you can easily make yourself, and see a lot of other neat ideas from other fellas giving it a go. A good, proven set of phalanges are always the biggest hang ups in building your own..


----------



## leoncrandall74

tirving said:


> Has anyone created a pivoting attachment for the press and shooting machine set-up to do 3rd axis adjustments at full draw?
> Something like Last Chance's pivoting set up on their deluxe presses?


Yep. I've been thinking for a long time the best/easiest way to do this on my press. This is what I came up with. I spent $10 from tractor supply. Two 7/8" bolts and a 1" piece of pipe. Half hour with a angle grinder. Way easier than I was expecting









Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

Nice ?


----------



## leoncrandall74

92safari said:


> Nice ?


I'll post pics of the press when I get it finished. Almost done. Finding the time to work on it is the hardest part. It's going to have a 3rd axis adjustment as well. I've been working on press, draw board and a cool idea for a vise at once. You, bowbender and several others have been a big influence on my build. Thanks guys

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk


----------



## Bryan M.

I really want to build one of these


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bryan M.

So for the limb brackets are you guys having them made?  I don’t have a welder but I assume it’s easy to find someone to weld so once I get over my fear of buying the stuff and then looking at it like a rubric cube I will use the 500000 DIY plans I’ve saved over the years and make up a Franken Bow press 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

A listing in the classifieds..


----------



## 92safari

Machinist boned up my finger order, but has some ready now (made correctly..lol).. Only about 30 sets left though.. Right in time though.. Had to restring my son's Carnage for him.. You're not going to do that with generic straight fingers.. So I guess it's worth it to front all the cash for the parts.. (Still damn costly for my measly income though..lol)


----------



## ropadop

I spoke to Bill (92safari) on 2/22 briefly. He has been fighting severe flooding in his house and shop. And helping neighbors do the same. Some people have lost everything. Most do not have flood insurance. Very grim situation. Google Goshen, Indiana flooding. It may be several weeks to get back to normal. Bill asks for your patience and prayers. As much as he has contributed to the AT community, I think he deserves our support.


----------



## 92safari

Okay.. Ill try to answer all the pms ttoday.. Floss water is receding enough to get into buildings now..


----------



## Hoyt1715

*Press*

Picked up my steel and trailer jack yesterday. Started at 630 this morning and had this by 830am. Just waiting on my fingers and mounts to come in the mail from 92safari. Can't wait


----------



## stevemend0za

My DIY bowpress, I made it the simplest way I could. Works great!









Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

Nice job ?


----------



## adr1601

I work part time in a machine shop and it was worth it to me to buy the fingers from Safari.
The Plasti Dip didn't hold up well, but the fingers are great!


----------



## bs81xj

Got my press all welded up and functional. It works great. All that's left now is to paint.









Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


----------



## Glenn58

NICE JOB! Look great.


----------



## ndbwhunter

Any detailed instructions on making the collapsible press? I've been looking at this for years and finally just need to pull the trigger!


----------



## 92safari

Its just a 6 pc. Sub-assembly that slides onto the same Jack tube platform.. Don't think I actually detailed it though..


----------



## Bows for me

Tagged


----------



## ndbwhunter

Is anyone here able to draft a design of the collapsible press in CAD? I don't have a welder nor the time to mess with a project like this right now, but I have a buddy that owns a machine shop that will easily be able to do it. I'd like a detailed set of plans to give him and get an idea on the cost. Thank you in advance!


----------



## tirving

ndbwhunter said:


> Is anyone here able to draft a design of the collapsible press in CAD? I don't have a welder nor the time to mess with a project like this right now, but I have a buddy that owns a machine shop that will easily be able to do it. I'd like a detailed set of plans to give him and get an idea on the cost. Thank you in advance!


The details are all in this thread. It's all square tubing, except for a few parts and the fingers. I think someone even posted a CAD of the finger assembly. Honestly, if you're not going to DIY, buying one from Bill might be your best bet. 

Lefty archer in the PNW


----------



## GoldtipXT

Who is Bill? What’s his user name?


----------



## bowbender300

GoldtipXT said:


> Who is Bill? What’s his user name?


92safari


----------



## Darrellbarnes

Tag


----------



## youngguy

Tagged

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bows for me

Ok it's not pretty but it sure works great I had it mounted on a table I made bud I found a trampoline that had blown away about 5 years ago and it was still there last Saturday so it's was my neighbors and I turkey hunt his land so I ask him if I could have a fee pieces of the tube it was one of the big heavy duty trampolines he told me to help myself so I got what I needed today to make a stand that is removable and I can move it a lot easier I plan on fixing them tomorrow and I will post pics but here it is as of now


----------



## Bows for me

I had to name it


----------



## 92safari

Nice job 😉


----------



## Bows for me




----------



## Bows for me

View attachment 6475985
View attachment 6475985


----------



## Bows for me




----------



## Bows for me

Now it's portable and a lot more compact


----------



## jl223

Pics of my progress .... Not as clean as some of the work here .... Great job guys .... Thanks for all the great advice ....


----------



## jl223

Press is complete ..... Thanks again


----------



## 92safari

Fyi fellas.. Can't empty my in box until later this evening to answer mps..


----------



## K2man

Great to see that this thread is still going strong... I built one of these presses several years ago. I used it several times in doing some minor tuning and peep work. Never got time to paint it, so it's been sitting around rusting. Finally going to get my shop back together after moving, and plan to clean it all up, paint it, and put it to work tuning my bow. I'll post pictures when all purdied up. Thanks again 92safari!!!


----------



## 92safari

Sweet... Love seeing all the different projects 😁


----------



## Montana*Stevens

...


----------



## grubstake

I have been using mine a ton, I cant remember how I got by without a press! I cant seem to get used to cranking left to tighten though :laugh:


----------



## 92safari

Lol... I don't even notice.. Turn right to open, left to close..


----------



## grubstake

My shop has turned into the least profitable pro shop ever. come over get your bow worked on and drink a few of my beers..... 

I need another project. I'm looking for a good bow vise.


----------



## j royse

I'm so close to finishing mine. It is a modular press/draw board combination. Other than paint, I hope to have it completed tomorrow. Its been a while in the making.


----------



## Israelluis

Pretty sweet press


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## moco4man

Just started building my fingers. Cutting them out of 1/2” steel plate with a cutoff wheel, then touching up with my knife making grinder. Got two done today


----------



## moco4man

10 cutoff wheels later and 3 broken taps I have my fingers. Dipping them in plasti-dip in the morning and going to start my press build. I figured I would start with the finger because if I could t make them then I wasn’t making a press


----------



## douglasjwood

Nice work!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## K.G.K.

Love these presses.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## mkral

Awesome Thread. Thanks to all for sharing.


----------



## 92safari

Just letting everyone know; Won't be doing these come first of the year... If you're going to be wanting one let me know now... Listings are in the classifieds.. I can put together some parts kits as well, but postage has gotten stupid and all this free shipping and fees has killed me.. JS


----------



## tunderwood

Which do you guys like better:
1. The design that uses the 4 bolt flange style bearing
or
2. The design that uses the welded cap with a bushing and 2 thrust bearings?

Which is smoother to operate? 

I'm going the individual bought components and not not going the pre built jack direction for a couple of reasons.

On the 4 bolt flange designs do you guys use any kind of bearings for the thrust load or just the flange bearing?


----------



## mikear

tunderwood said:


> Which do you guys like better:
> 1. The design that uses the 4 bolt flange style bearing
> or
> 2. The design that uses the welded cap with a bushing and 2 thrust bearings?
> 
> Which is smoother to operate?
> 
> I'm going the individual bought components and not not going the pre built jack direction for a couple of reasons.
> 
> On the 4 bolt flange designs do you guys use any kind of bearings for the thrust load or just the flange bearing?


I sent you a PM to answer your question, but I used the flange style ball bearing only. I can tell you that it is butter smooth.


----------



## Brian311

Pm sent


----------



## NY_bowhunter

I have a question. I have one of these presses and the crank is on the right hand side. (as you're facing the press) I have to crank it counterclockwise to press and clockwise to lengthen. Is there anyway to get to go the opposite way?


----------



## tirving

NY_bowhunter said:


> I have a question. I have one of these presses and the crank is on the right hand side. (as you're facing the press) I have to crank it counterclockwise to press and clockwise to lengthen. Is there anyway to get to go the opposite way?


I didn't like that at first, but now I remember that cranking towards me engages the press and away from me disengages.


----------



## 92safari

NY_bowhunter said:


> I have a question. I have one of these presses and the crank is on the right hand side. (as you're facing the press) I have to crank it counterclockwise to press and clockwise to lengthen. Is there anyway to get to go the opposite way?


... Not without changing the screw and nut all together.. You can go the other route, but at considerably more expense just for psychological convenience... I've been building these for over 10 years with efficiency, and versatility in mind... Easily modified and added to... stronger, much quicker, far more versatile, and much better components than an LCA... All the input here and ideas must be good as you can see them all incorporated into LCA's line up (except for still using all the cheesey materials...lol)... Right or left doesn't bother me personally, and not worth the added expense as far as building by the time I cover all the up front expenses of logistics, materials & supplies, out sourced parts, and then shipping ($60-$110 that no one wants to cover..lol)... After all is said and done I might make $100 for 2-3 days of work...lol ... Thats why I posted this step by step thread for DIY'ers... People always want to compare it to a cheesey green as far as form and cost; when in fact they aren't comparable in form, function, or cost, and certainly not in materials or parts used.... My working capital is the $100 I made on the last press to finance the next...lol.... I have to build these to use up and pay for all the machined parts that have to be bought up front, but doubt I'll keep it up when they're gone... Really not worth all the stress of competing with cheaper products without building them "cheaper", and that defeats the whole purpose...lol


----------



## bobmeister

Very nice work.


----------



## csmith8621

Has anyone ever put wheels on a linear press instead of ears? If so how did it work or will it even work?


----------



## NY_bowhunter

92safari said:


> ... Not without changing the screw and nut all together.. You can go the other route, but at considerably more expense just for psychological convenience... I've been building these for over 10 years with efficiency, and versatility in mind... Easily modified and added to... stronger, much quicker, far more versatile, and much better components than an LCA... All the input here and ideas must be good as you can see them all incorporated into LCA's line up (except for still using all the cheesey materials...lol)... Right or left doesn't bother me personally, and not worth the added expense as far as building by the time I cover all the up front expenses of logistics, materials & supplies, out sourced parts, and then shipping ($60-$110 that no one wants to cover..lol)... After all is said and done I might make $100 for 2-3 days of work...lol ... Thats why I posted this step by step thread for DIY'ers... People always want to compare it to a cheesey green as far as form and cost; when in fact they aren't comparable in form, function, or cost, and certainly not in materials or parts used.... My working capital is the $100 I made on the last press to finance the next...lol.... I have to build these to use up and pay for all the machined parts that have to be bought up front, but doubt I'll keep it up when they're gone... Really not worth all the stress of competing with cheaper products without building them "cheaper", and that defeats the whole purpose...lol


Yep. This press is AWESOME!! I can't find anything better honestly. With all it's versatility, noone will find a better setup.  So glad the wife got this press for me. I'm getting use to the cranking opposite what I use in the shop so that's not an issue anymore. I'm looking to open my own archery shop so I won't have to deal with those other presses much longer. This press fills every need a pro shop could ever want. Thank you 92safari for making these and offering them to others.


----------



## j royse

NY_bowhunter said:


> I have a question. I have one of these presses and the crank is on the right hand side. (as you're facing the press) I have to crank it counterclockwise to press and clockwise to lengthen. Is there anyway to get to go the opposite way?


The jack I used for mine was a side mount crank that performed like yours, CCW to compress,CW to extend. I wasn't happy with that arrangement. I disassembled the jack head/gearing and turned crank gear around, drilled a new hole in the crank shaft to allow for pinning the gear onto the crank shaft so that the gear teeth now face toward the crank handle instead of facing away and it now mates to the acme thread drive gear on the opposite side (180 degrees out). Now CW to compress, CCW to extend. Works like a champ.


----------



## mherne8

This is awesome! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## X.bushman.x

Awesome


----------



## klukdog

Very informative thread. Commenting to stay up to date with it.


----------



## rsutton7132

Been using mine successfully for almost 2 years now on a CPXL and an Xpedition Perfexion


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TSox

This is awesome!


----------



## uncleda2002

*Finally got it done.*

Alternating days in my warm cellar workshop with days I could take time to warm up the garage where the welder is. This thread was full of info to help keep me going!
Thanks to all that contributed.


----------



## leoncrandall74

I've gotten so much info and inspiration from this thread,actually been through it a couple times and wanna thank everyone that's contributed. I couldn't have and definitely wouldn't have done it without. It's been well over a year since I started my press but it's finally done! Sorta..
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...hare_tid=5623409&share_fid=16462&share_type=t

My DIY BOW PRESS









Sent from my SM-G532M using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

Nice presses  ....


----------



## BriceJ MI

Need some hangers or plans


----------



## 92safari

BriceJ MI said:


> Need some hangers or plans


Shoot me a pm if you want.. I'm making an order tomorrow with the machinist for some others... Just the full capture sets that he still has some blanks for (4 x reversible doubles)...


----------



## Stick Breaker

PM sent


----------



## 92safari

Stick Breaker said:


> PM sent


Still havent seen your pm...


----------



## Peyton-11

nice!


----------



## ssoutdoors

tagged... this is great


----------



## FinestKind

That's a great idea.


----------



## maddawg89

Very nice!!!
I'm going to start gathering materials soon! Started with a PM to the man 92safari just a minute ago.

I think I want to make it with a round pipe off the back side that will slide over another pipe mounted to a wall so it can spin and be vertical or horizontal so it can double as a vise. 

I want to build a draw board as well but feel like I'd like it better separate from the press. We'll see how it turns out in the end. 

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


----------



## ndbwhunter

Any advice on make sure the acme nut is perfectly centered? The clamp collars that I ordered are 1.5" OD so I'll have to go with 1.75" for my main tube, and 1.5" for the other tube. I'm guessing I'll have to find a good way to shim the acme nut to make sure it's squared up nicely. Any thoughts or other advice before I get started?


----------



## Kmarks

Saved for later


----------



## leoncrandall74

maddawg89 said:


> Very nice!!!
> I'm going to start gathering materials soon! Started with a PM to the man 92safari just a minute ago.
> 
> I think I want to make it with a round pipe off the back side that will slide over another pipe mounted to a wall so it can spin and be vertical or horizontal so it can double as a vise.
> 
> I want to build a draw board as well but feel like I'd like it better separate from the press. We'll see how it turns out in the end.
> 
> Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


A lot of amazing presses throughout this thread with some great ideas. For anyone thinking about building one it'd be worth reading the entire thread! This is what I came up with for a mount..a nut, two bolts and a couple pieces of tubing. It was very simple to make and under $10. The press with the wall mount has first and second axis adjustments and the bench mount gives a third axis. I posted the link and some pics of the finished press a few posts up.









Sent from my SM-G532M using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

Nice to see some fresh input... Nice... Clever set up..
As for the centering of the nut from above; You can get it pretty darn good by laying out a longer piece of tube next to your screw tube and clampthem together for an extended straight edge.. Then run your nut almost all the way down your screw and then set in up in the end of your press tube... Get an idea how much space you have from the screw to the tubing wall... For example lets say it 5/16" on all 4 sides of the screw... So you can use some 5/16" bolts to shim it straight.. One under the screw near the nut, one at the other end again under the screw, and one more at the end between the screw and straight edge extension tube.. (Guage the nut end between screw and straight edge too to be sure the screw is going to run true with the straight edge)... Once it looks true to the straight edge, and good on the bench; you can tack your nut on each side (use a piece of sleeve over your screw to keep spatter off the threads).. Be sure to tack at least 2 sides before unclamping... That gives you 2 straight planes to work with and will get you pretty darn straight... Good luck and take some pics along the way...


----------



## Girvin13

92 can you send pm on the coat hangers? I dont want mine in the floor. :wink:


----------



## Finnish person

Nice presses


----------



## pchunterpa

92
Not sure if you have seen any of my pms but I am just wondering when the press will ship
Thanks


----------



## 50bmgshooter

92safari pm sent
great Thread 
joined because of it cant wait to find more projects and info on here


----------



## uncleda2002

Several people have asked if a $100 HF fluxcore MIG welder is capable of doing this job. 
The answer is yes. The HF 90 amp fluxcore has plenty of heat to weld 1/8" mild steel. 

I'm a beginner welder and that machine was the one I used for this press. 

I have since built a second press (and several other projects) using a second-hand (maybe 3rd) Lincoln AC stick welder and 6013 rod. 

You can find used Lincoln "tombstone" welders on craigslist for $50-$100. 

Of the two, the Lincoln was easier to weld with. 
The stick welders are usually 220 VAC rather than 120 VAC but, if you have a 220 outlet (or can install one), I think that is the way to go.


----------



## ndbwhunter

Has anyone else built one of the collapsible presses? If so, could you post some pictures of the center bracket where the legs attach? I'm guessing it's just square tubing with a notch cut out on the bottom, but some pictures would help clarify. Thanks


----------



## 92safari

I make the hinge piece from 11 gauge 1 1/2" tube and legs 14 gauge (doesn't really matter gauge).. That's a snug fit with no shims.. Holes are 3/8" on 1" center.. On both pieces holes are drilled near the ends and off center so they can swing freely without bottoming out. Then mill off or cut a 2" piece out of the bottom of bracket for legs to tuck up into. Ill try to post some pics..


----------



## 92safari

Oh, and then center the leg assembly on to one of the 4"x1 3/4" 14 gauge sleeves so it slides on And off of the press (legs are 10 1/2" long with 10 1/2" feet off centered with 2" of the foot behind the press and all the rest protruding fwd. For stability..


----------



## ndbwhunter

92safari said:


> I make the hinge piece from 11 gauge 1 1/2" tube and legs 14 gauge (doesn't really matter gauge).. That's a snug fit with no shims.. Holes are 3/8" on 1" center.. On both pieces holes are drilled near the ends and off center so they can swing freely without bottoming out. Then mill off or cut a 2" piece out of the bottom of bracket for legs to tuck up into. Ill try to post some pics..


Thank you, Bill. Would love to see some pictures.


----------



## 92safari

*Folding legs*

Sorry... Just scribbled this up real quick... You can play with the lengths, but I wouldn't go much smaller than these...


----------



## 92safari

*Folding legs-2*

couple more...


----------



## 92safari

*Folding legs-3*

Same simple set up I use on my Radial style presses as well...


----------



## 92safari

Forgot to note that the center piece is 11 guage 1 1/2" tubing. This makes a nice snug fit with the 1 1/4" legs. All of my 4" sleeves are 1 3/4" 14 guage (this fit varies from .030-.060" to shim as you like.. I prefer a looser fit).. Always be sure when drilling that your holes are 90 degrees to the flash seam inside the tubing...


----------



## 92safari

uncleda2002 said:


> Alternating days in my warm cellar workshop with days I could take time to warm up the garage where the welder is. This thread was full of info to help keep me going!
> Thanks to all that contributed.
> 
> View attachment 6750777
> View attachment 6750779


Boy... Just noticed you did a variance of one of the early, early options... Nice job  You're gonna get so much more out of shooting by doing your own tweaking, and get a lot more familiar with your own bow... Have fun


----------



## Justin17

I’ve been disappointed by the lack of returned PM’s. It looks like I’m not the only one. I thought mine would’ve shipped by now.


----------



## Spike76

Awesome work people!


----------



## ndbwhunter

I'm hoping to have my press finished up this week. I'll be adding a winch and peg to incorporate a horizontal draw board as well. Beings I'm a lefty, I'm guessing I'll want the winch mounted on the left hand side and the peg on the right, correct? Should I make sure to keep the peg and strap level when building the attachments? I'm planning to build the attachments to slide into the arms with the fingers attached. Any pictures of your setups would be appreciated. Thanks


----------



## tirving

ndbwhunter said:


> I'm hoping to have my press finished up this week. I'll be adding a winch and peg to incorporate a horizontal draw board as well. Beings I'm a lefty, I'm guessing I'll want the winch mounted on the left hand side and the peg on the right, correct? Should I make sure to keep the peg and strap level when building the attachments? I'm planning to build the attachments to slide into the arms with the fingers attached. Any pictures of your setups would be appreciated. Thanks


Yes, that's right, but make the the peg is moveable, left and right, and even up and down as lots of bows have slightly different dimensions. Here's my set up from 92safari with some extras/tweaks.


----------



## leoncrandall74

ndbwhunter said:


> I'm hoping to have my press finished up this week. I'll be adding a winch and peg to incorporate a horizontal draw board as well. Beings I'm a lefty, I'm guessing I'll want the winch mounted on the left hand side and the peg on the right, correct? Should I make sure to keep the peg and strap level when building the attachments? I'm planning to build the attachments to slide into the arms with the fingers attached. Any pictures of your setups would be appreciated. Thanks


I have mine set up like that but I'm a righty. That keeps the cable side of the cam toward me to see it easier. But mine can switch sides in a couple seconds if I want. It would be best if you had some adjustment on the peg, but would probably set more level with the peg a couple inches lower than the strap.

Sent from my SM-G532M using Tapatalk


----------



## ndbwhunter

leoncrandall74 said:


> I have mine set up like that but I'm a righty. That keeps the cable side of the cam toward me to see it easier. But mine can switch sides in a couple seconds if I want. It would be best if you had some adjustment on the peg, but would probably set more level with the peg a couple inches lower than the strap.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G532M using Tapatalk


So is there any benefit to me setting up the winch on the left hand side for a left handed bow? My thought was just to see the rest, but if that's not all that important I'll just leave the winch on the right side. If it makes a difference, I'm shooting an Elite Synergy and this will be my first experience with fine tuning.


----------



## tirving

For some reason, I read "horizontal", as "vertical". Carry on. I have a horizontal draw board too, but I set the peg up on the left.


----------



## leoncrandall74

ndbwhunter said:


> So is there any benefit to me setting up the winch on the left hand side for a left handed bow? My thought was just to see the rest, but if that's not all that important I'll just leave the winch on the right side. If it makes a difference, I'm shooting an Elite Synergy and this will be my first experience with fine tuning.


I don't really see any benefit that way, actually the other way would also give you better access to your rest adjustment screws. Maybe someone else has some input but I'd leave it on the right

Sent from my SM-G532M using Tapatalk


----------



## andegreg

nice


----------



## ndbwhunter

How is everyone prepping the fingers for paint and plasti dip? I found a good bonding primer that is supposed to help on metal. Is there any good way to prevent runs or dried drips on the fingers after dipping? My last experience with plasti dip resulted in drips/bubbles on the end hanging down.


----------



## K2man

ndbwhunter said:


> How is everyone prepping the fingers for paint and plasti dip? I found a good bonding primer that is supposed to help on metal. Is there any good way to prevent runs or dried drips on the fingers after dipping? My last experience with plasti dip resulted in drips/bubbles on the end hanging down.


I built my Slimline Inline several years ago - good to see this thread is still going! I was in a hurry to use mine, so I just wrapped in some white vinyl electrical tape. Never got around to painting it either. Some day when I have nothing better to do (ha) I'll soak it all in muratic acid then paint. My cans of plasti dip I bought I left in Florida when I moved to Hawaii - wasn't suppose to have anything like that in my shipping container.... 

What is the primer you use for Plasti Dip? I've had the stuff peel off things before.


----------



## 92safari

Dip doesn't seem to like most paints... I use 4 coats of dip and don't paint until after the 3rd coat (really depends on the freshness of your dip)..
I leave them 4 days to cure.. They stay soft for a while if you try using them before they've cured they won't last long without splitting..


----------



## Bigwilly1210

nice post....
and press too!!!


----------



## 92safari

Oh... Now that I'm thinking about it; I stretched out the length of the arms to 7" from 6", and the pins on the caution bar as well just to add a little space between the bow and the press for rests and sight mounts to clear better if the bow is flipped around... Just a little thing, but sometimes nice to put bow in either way...


----------



## 92safari

ndbwhunter said:


> How is everyone prepping the fingers for paint and plasti dip? I found a good bonding primer that is supposed to help on metal. Is there any good way to prevent runs or dried drips on the fingers after dipping? My last experience with plasti dip resulted in drips/bubbles on the end hanging down.


Oh..., as far as the drippy ends; I know it seems tedious, but if you hang them so they lean backwards slightly that will take care of the build up and webbing in the corners..
Give them a slow dip straight in, and give it 3 or 4 seconds before slowly lifting it back out letting the excess run off... That can go on for several minutes depending on the temp and humidity... As it stops dripping just touch and drag/shape the remaining drip off with a piece of wire until its a smooth tip... Give it a few hours between coats (3-4 depending on viscosity of your dip), and then let them cure for 4 days (not just dry)... They'll tighten up and get a good stiffness... Stir your dip slowly before using and dip slowly to minimize any bubbles...


----------



## 92safari

ndbwhunter said:


> How is everyone prepping the fingers for paint and plasti dip? I found a good bonding primer that is supposed to help on metal. Is there any good way to prevent runs or dried drips on the fingers after dipping? My last experience with plasti dip resulted in drips/bubbles on the end hanging down.


Oh..., as far as the drippy ends; I know it seems tedious, but if you hang them so they lean backwards slightly that will take care of the build up and webbing in the corners..
Give them a slow dip straight in, and give it 3 or 4 seconds before slowly lifting it back out letting the excess run off... That can go on for several minutes depending on the temp and humidity... As it stops dripping just touch and drag/shape the remaining drip off with a piece of wire until its a smooth tip... Give it a few hours between coats (3-4 depending on viscosity of your dip), and then let them cure for 4 days (not just dry)... They'll tighten up and get a good stiffness... Stir your dip slowly before using and dip slowly to minimize any bubbles...


----------



## 92safari

Anybody pressing your Hoyt's in these?? Haven't seen any bow pics in a while...


----------



## 92safari

ndbwhunter said:


> So is there any benefit to me setting up the winch on the left hand side for a left handed bow? My thought was just to see the rest, but if that's not all that important I'll just leave the winch on the right side. If it makes a difference, I'm shooting an Elite Synergy and this will be my first experience with fine tuning.


Shouldn't really matter as long as you can see and access whatever your looking at tweaking (and how your crank is set up)... I think generally there's about a 3 1/2" offset between your pivot point, and draw point give or take a little... Personally I like to use a polyurethane boat roller on my pivot pin so that changes it a tad too..


----------



## 92safari

Anyone be interested in a cut parts kit for press and/or attachments??


----------



## redyak3

Tagged, lost all to the lava eruption last year, finally got another welder:darkbeer:


----------



## 92safari

Haven't seen any new pics in awhile... So where are all the projects??


----------



## 92safari

Possibly found another source for fingers, but would have to make a sizeable order and tap a drill holes for the adjusters myself... Wanting to do them in aluminum (not cheap) this time around... Ill give it a go if I can get at least 15 preorders to cover the engineering costs and and initial start up run to get things going... 4 aluminum reversible doubles and 4 steel side plate mounts all laser cut will run around $130..
Trying to get it figured out so I can keep the cost closer to the way it was with steel... 
Let me know if there's enough interest to getter done, or not bother...lol...


----------



## PhilSch

What's the advantage of aluminum over steel?


----------



## 92safari

Simple things really.. Much easier for me to do the drilling and tapping, no hardened crust to get through.. No rusting or paint drying.. Lighter to ship hopefully enough to give international guys a break since steel goes over the weight limits... Functionally the same... Time, supplies, and working with Is much easier on my end hopefully enough to give better access to Canada and Australia, etc.
The painting and dipping takes days between drying and curing times (paints and dip usually not comparable so a particular time and order involved)... Gotta pay for everything up front so saving time and machine work would speed things up a bunch just higher material and table costs..


----------



## 92safari

I posted this on my classified listings... 
"Down to the bottom of the barrel on inline fingers... I will only be building 5 more total inlines period.. In whatever set up... That's it for fingers... First 5 orders get them... 
(Not selling fingers alone.)..."

If I can get at least a dozen guys interested enough for a preorder; ill go ahead with a new order from laser cutter.. Otherwise it's just not worth all the cost and running...


----------



## Martin Chemnitz

Nice job


----------



## DDOSHAWN

Finally got my press finalized. I built it so I could slide it off the frame that is bolted to the floor in my shop and put it on a receiver hitch mount.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## redyak3

Finished my press last night, thanks ‘92. I welded a 1” threaded floor mount to attach the post. Eventually getting a Park Tools bike repair stand to mount the press, the vise works for now. I like this one better than the first one I built which is now under ‘bout 65’ of lava.


----------



## 92safari

Nice!! Too bad the mother earth ate your other one, but it gives you a chance to do even better 😉 
Looking great!! 
Here's to building better!! 🙂


----------



## redyak3

This press works great, decided to build a stand instead of buying the bike repair. I used left over tubing, 4’ long black pipe, and another 1” threaded flange. It presses my parallel limbed Z7 extreme with ease.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

Sweet... Nice set up 😉


----------



## RangeHunter

92Safari,

Sent you a PM today; however it doesn't show in my Sent Items. If you didn't receive a PM from me please let me know and I will resend the message.

Thanks!

BTW; love your designs a fabrications. Stellar work!


----------



## 92safari

Yup... Got it and answered back...
Thanks


----------



## ravenslayer

Thank you for the Step by Step! Great work


----------



## ATLRoach

92Safari do you have any more fingers available or have a file to share for a price?


----------



## 92safari

I've only got the two sets listed on presses in the classifieds (full set ups)...
I can try putting together another drawing and post it... Machinist has the files... I'm trying to source another shop to make them as this one has just gotten too expensive...
Anyone looking to avoid all the work can check out my listings in the classdifieds before they're all gone...


----------



## ATLRoach

I can't seem to see the classifieds yet. If you have a drawing, I could have a buddy of mine cut me some with his laser. Thanks 92Safari!


----------



## Sekhunter

im looking for a set of fingers to build a inline press. can anyone point me in the direction to find some?!


----------



## 92safari

Using my last set on press listing in classifieds under archery tools.if someone wants a deal... Hit me up with a pm.


----------



## 92safari

*Press fingers*

A lot of guys have been asking about these...
I found another shop to machine the double, reversible fingers and mount plates... Says it'll take about 3 weeks to get the blanks and run them...
I have to have my order in by Monday.. Im going to get a few sets for myself... 4 x double (equivalent to 8 fingers), reversible fingers (including both drawstop fingers), and 4 x side plate mounts... All Laser cut, milled, drilled, and tapped... @ $120 per set... These are still the most versatile and adjustable set up...
If anyone wants to prepay and add some to my order... Drop me a pm over the next couple days...
I've also got a Bow/xbow press that I was planning to keep that I can let go of now that i can get more fingers if anyone's interested in that let me know..


----------



## strut22

Awesome press


----------



## 92safari

Turning in the order in 2 more days if anyone else wants to add to it... I've adjusted the order for those of you that have already contacted me...


----------



## 92safari

I've have to turn the order in tomorrow fellas... Last call !!...
Thinking I may start a couple new assembly threads with part kits after this... If you're going to want fingers and mounts let me know today... Tomorrow will be too late..


----------



## dubllung4

92 I sent you a PM. Please let me know if you did not get it


----------



## 92safari

Nope... Nothin...


----------



## JoeT3

Oh man, am i too late on this? Just found this awesome thread.....


----------



## b_man

I have a set of fingers in the classifieds if anyone is interested. Never got around to building my press and wound up buying a press.


----------



## 92safari

For all you guys that put in on the finger order... I checked and they are supposed to be ready next week..., and I ordered a few extra sets to use If there's any late comers that want in on it... Let me know before they get used...
Think what I'm going to do is start a fresh thread and offer a pre-cut short kit (everything but the 5 longer pcs. 24"+) so people can follow along and build with minimal tools and experience... Just a few 1" welds that can be done with a 110 hobby welder... So... If you get a hold of of cheap welder, a grinder, and a wire brush; you can build your own full set up at minimal expense... (Hoping to get things cheap enough that guys can team up and build these at the cost of a cheap press)...


----------



## Gene1

Funds sent.


----------



## renniew98

Nice job


----------



## Trknick

92safari said:


> For all you guys that put in on the finger order... I checked and they are supposed to be ready next week..., and I ordered a few extra sets to use If there's any late comers that want in on it... Let me know before they get used...
> Think what I'm going to do is start a fresh thread and offer a pre-cut short kit (everything but the 5 longer pcs. 24"+) so people can follow along and build with minimal tools and experience... Just a few 1" welds that can be done with a 110 hobby welder... So... If you get a hold of of cheap welder, a grinder, and a wire brush; you can build your own full set up at minimal expense... (Hoping to get things cheap enough that guys can team up and build these at the cost of a cheap press)...


Interested in this kit and following along! This thread is amazing


----------



## 92safari

Trknick said:


> Interested in this kit and following along! This thread is amazing


Shoot me a pm about a ready to weld up kit... cut and pre-drilled with all the hardware, end caps, finger assemblies, etc. to build the whole 9 yards (including optional folding legs....). Theyre gonna be about a hundred dollars cheaper if I can ship them without the 3 or 4 longer tubes (a "short kit")...
If I can do these as project kits; I can start a new step by step thread breaking down each assembly using the same kits that can easily be welded up in a single day..
It will be a complete modular Bow & crossbow press, slide adjustable at both ends, can be set up to use both right and left handed, both leg & feet options.. free standing, mountable, portable, and folding legs, full cature adjustable, reversible, invertable sleeved finger assemblies, full length adjustable caution bar, telescopic vertical draw tower set up for any game hoist, horizontal draw/shooter attachments for any standard winch, and all the hardware and end caps to finish and ready for paint...
Modular means never becoming obsolete, and any additional ideas and options will simply slide on, and off such as stands, hitch mounts, rotation axis, refined draw mechanisms, hand wheels, different finger designs, etc... 
Obviously gonna be cheaper to ship everything rather than each assembly one at a time, but I can put together a simple press kit as well if guys dont need all the bells and whistles all at once, or want to get their own tubing, or whatever..
I thought I had a pic already from before when i put out some kits, but i cant find it at the moment...
Hit me up if anyone wants to build your own from a kit...


----------



## Gene1

Any update on the order for the fingers?


----------



## 92safari

They'll start going out this week once all various hardware is in...


----------



## Gene1

Thanks can’t wait. 
My local HF was out of stock on the 2000lb A trailer jack. Will the swing jack internals work? If not I’ll order that online.


----------



## Gene1

Just figured it out. Swing jack has shorter travel.


----------



## 92safari

You can get. A 15" A frame from any Wal-Mart, Lowe's, tractor supply, etc. For around $30


----------



## 92safari

Any interest in a 6"- 29" max ext. crossbow press??


----------



## 92safari

Picked up 4 extra sets...


----------



## Newk

92safari said:


> Picked up 4 extra sets...


I would love to have a set if you have any extras! 
I just found this thread today and it is awesome


----------



## 92safari

Newk said:


> I would love to have a set if you have any extras!
> I just found this thread today and it is awesome


PM'd you the info.... Welcome to the project...


----------



## Gene1

My trailer jack is scheduled to be delivered today. 

Please pm me the tracking number so I know when to expect this kit.

Thanks


----------



## 92safari

Only 3 more extra sets on hand now; then i'll be starting a fresh thread hopefully getting all the way through an unassembled kit step by step to the end all in one pop... starting with just the press; then each add on option... one at a time... just a few basic hand tools, and a cheap hobby welder will do it...
I'll have short kits (everything under 24") with free shipping, and full kits including longer pieces with actual shipping applied...


----------



## Gene1

Nice variety of setups.


----------



## Gene1

Did you get all the misc springs or parts to send out the finger kit?
I’m still waiting.


----------



## 92safari

Yup... Give it a couple days


----------



## 92safari

*Basic inline Press kit*

Here are some of the full kits I'm doing... Start off with a basic bench mounted inline bow press with everything needed to easily tack together in just a couple hours with basically just a grinder and an inexpensive welder..


----------



## 92safari

*Basic modularerassemblies bow & crossbow press kit*

Basic modular bow & crossbow press kit with everything needed to finish in 1 afternoon... Everything slide adjustable, sleeved finger assemblies, multi positio legs and feet... accepts all attachments...


----------



## 92safari

*Complete modular Press, caution bar, draw tower, draw/shooter kit*

Complete modular Press, caution bar, draw tower, draw/shooter kit... Everything needed to finish, steel, hardware, fingers, etc.. You can still get this finished off in a day in the garage...


----------



## Gene1

Just got the fingers. Just need to pickup the tube steel this weekend. 

Thanks!


----------



## 92safari

*finger assemblies*

Nice... You know they'll work fine like that, but I mount mine to 1 3/4" x 4.5" sleeves that slide on and off the arms, and secured with a set screw knob... I keep the hitch pins inside the mounting plates, and the drawstop fingers outside the mounts with the spanner knob keeping it in place... This way as you adjust the span; youre drawing the inside fingers away from the press, and gaining clearance space... Pressing bows with 1 drawstop; I just remove the knob and flip the appropriate finger..
Pressing bows with 2 drawstops; I just flip the whole finger assemblies from one arm to the other..
I didn't put instructions in any of them.. I posted it a couple times.. I'll see if I can find it, and repost.. I posted several ways to rig them up with various hardware... I settled on this set up for versatility, and the full capture fingers, because I like seeing the limbs surrounded by steel while the riser is secured in the caution bar... I've always liked having the lower finger there to catch it should anything ever slip on you some how... Kinda prevents anything "explosive" from happening... Thats always paramount...


----------



## Gene1

Ok, I kinda of understanding what your saying. On pic 1 I only see one mounting plate.
Pic 2 totally confusing.
Pic 3 yes mount fingers on a sleeve 

Reposting would be nice. 1974 postings is a lot to go thru.

Thanks. 

Also please post some Close up pic the cautions bars (bolt with hose over them?) and assembly.


----------



## eric poris

nice work! :thumbs_up


----------



## 92safari

Gene1 said:


> Ok, I kinda of understanding what your saying. On pic 1 I only see one mounting plate.
> Pic 2 totally confusing.
> Pic 3 yes mount fingers on a sleeve
> 
> Reposting would be nice. 1974 postings is a lot to go thru.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Also please post some Close up pic the cautions bars (bolt with hose over them?) and assembly.


Second pic is just showing a simple jig for spacing the mount plates 3" apart on the sleeves...


----------



## 92safari

*finger assembly instructions*

Well heres the text from the instructions... Pics wouldn't load up with it.. 

Pac-Press Reversible Inline Finger Assembly

Finger Assembly
Okay; Here we go:
Step 1: put hair pins in the rods on squared ends...
Step 2: slide rods through backside of inside finger (threaded hole in center)..
Step 3: Put springs on rods..
Step 4: Put hairpins in tapered end of rods to retain springs..

Finger Assembly pt/2
Step 5: Put a sideplate mount on each end of the pins...
Step 6: Add double finger (Slotted center) to tapered end of rods on the outside of the side plate mount..
Final step is to insert the threaded adjustment knob to complete the unit. The mounts will self align and spacing between mounts is 3".
Just remove the adjuster knob and flip the reversible fingers as needed for drawstops.


----------



## 92safari

Steps 1-5


----------



## 92safari

6-7


----------



## Gene1

Thanks,
I see it now, this way will be easier to flip the front fingers if needed.

2nd pic for spacing mounts or can also be a mounting platform for other attachments like a hand winch for draw board if it’s on a sleeve on the arms.


----------



## 92safari

I started some listings in the classifieds for various full kits, and short kits (everything under 24")... A short kit saves a ton on shipping cost without the 2-4 longer pieces...
You can build your own with quality parts better, faster, and more versatile than a factory press at half the cost... Everything is cut, drilled, machined, and shaped for you to just tack together... 
Check them out in the classifieds... Christmas is coming...lol


----------



## 92safari

OK check this out... Had someone change their mind on one of these xbow presses, and I just want to get it gone so everyones happy.. I've got it listed dirt cheap in classifieds pretty much just for the cost of the fingers if you want a steel deal here it is!!
https://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5779977
One time deal going to first responder!!


----------



## Gene1

On one of your posting I saw gusset plate installed. Is that still required?


----------



## 92safari

Not required.... Juust for the Heck of It..


----------



## 92safari

*Crossbow Press kit*

Heres a couple pics of the crossbow press kit... 4"-29"


----------



## Ecks from Tex

Nice


----------



## BIGMACK91

Nice


----------



## 92safari

Anyone else wanting a kit, press, or finger sets let me know now so I can pick up finger assemblies before machine shop takes off for the holiday...


----------



## mtnguy3

Pm sent


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

mtnguy3 said:


> Pm sent
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Back atcha...


----------



## 92safari

I'll be trying to start up a new thread during the holiday weekend so everything is in one place and much easier to navigate through without all the extra pages in between...
PM me if anyone is wanting one of the pre-cut kits, or short kits to follow along with...


----------



## Gene1

Just picked up the 1-1/2” and 1-1/4” tube steel, they didn’t have 1-3/4”. This place only sells full lengths of 24’ each. Not too many shops had it in stock. Now I can have lots of options to add. lol.
Need to still call around to find the 1-3/4” if I want a full module press.


----------



## 92safari

Lol... Yeah... I feel your pain...lol between the steel, hardware, and parts; I've gotta dump a lot of money up front on all this stuff, and drive more than an hour 1 way to get it... Then all the supplies to get it worked into parts, packaging, and shipping (another hour and a half round trip)... And still have guys trying to compare costs to a cheesey green and free shipping...lol
Then of coarse nearly 5% in all the fees...lol
When you call around ask if they have any "drops"... Those are remnant pieces short of a full stick... 24 ft. Is a boat load of 4" sleeves...lol
Good luck, and post up your progress once you get going...


----------



## ta406

Excellent thread. exactly what I was looking for


----------



## JSexton1

Can someone PM me with help on the draw board portion of the vertical tower...or just how you are setting up your draw board for this press. I have one and I want to make sure I am building everything correctly. Thank you


----------



## Trknick

A master cutting list for the modular press would be super handy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

Gonna make me go back and find it?? Lol
Probably easier to put another one together.. Remember though... None of this is rocket science or written in stone... Just a good solid, working platform that you can easily play with, and modify at will to suit... Personally I'd cut up a few extra 1 3/4" sq. Sleeves just to have them around for any ideas of your own you'd like to try... I'm gonna try to cover it all in another thread with the whole kit set up laid out, and tacked up... I just have to put it all together on paper first so I can string it all at once so its easier to follow right from the start uninterrupted for clarity...


----------



## jp60

92safari I have a few questions on the crossbow press for you
1 Why a 3" sleeve in the middle on the main tube ?
2 The out rigger for the right sleeve is welded on? And how far from the end ? Can you use a 3" sleeve there or not strong enough ?
3 Any pictures of the back side ?
Thanks


----------



## 92safari

Ill post some pics of the parts. I'm building a boat load now from holiday orders... I always used 4" sleeves for everything.. The occasional Gussets I'd use up on either press as it never hurts, but not required.. I like putting Gussets on both arms for these crossbow dedicated presses just because they will always be holding a lot of pressure..
The only "sleeve in the middle" is a sleeve for the fold away leg assembly. It can be slid along wherever feels good for what you're doing... And still have other options for the press like a bench or wall mount, hitch mount, pivot, whatever...
The backside is flat, or a set screw knob.. I've put knobs on top of some, back of some, and even both top and back on others... It can be set up either right or left handed, and the tail piece (left arm) can be reversed to make it even shorter if you need for all these new super narrow crossbows.. With fingers sleeved you can just take the whole assembly and flip sides if you want drawstop fingers up, down, or out of the way depending on how you want to press... Standard, or reversed limbs... No matter... Sleeves give you options...


----------



## 92safari

Oh... As to how far from the end for your arm; flush with the end if you want that extra inch or two... Or 1/2"+ if you'd rather have that extra weld bead behind the arm...


----------



## 92safari

Guess I should note that lately I've stretched my sleeves out to 4.5"... I just like the extra bit of space to put weld beads a tad further from the edges for my finger mounts...


----------



## msjwolfe

Are the fingers still available to buy?


----------



## 92safari

You can shoot me a pm for stuff... I've got a pretty good supply for a bit..


----------



## 92safari

Well those parts didn't last long...
I'm putting together another finger order at the machine shop for next week (not sure how many blanks are left to work with Sooo...)
So anyone considering a press or build project; ill need to know in the next couple of days!!


----------



## 92safari

Less than 20 sets left now...


----------



## Bucket

Anyone have a good solution to keep the sleeve that the fingers are on from twisting when pressing? I should have checked it before I painted mine...I would have welded a couple shims on it to eliminate some of the slop between the 1 1/2" and 1 3/4" tube.


----------



## bowbender300

You can try squeezing the 1 3/4" tube in a little on all 4 sides with a pair of adjustable pliers.


----------



## 92safari

There's roughly a .060 difference between the 2.. Just use some plastic stock .030-.060 ... Cut shims a tad narrow to stay out of the corners or you'll bind.. Loctite industrial super glue works well and it can still be chipped out if you ever needed to.. Can find plastic sheet at any hobby shop or store without having to buy a huge sheet.. Or be creative using old credit card stock roughly .025-.030, or you could even use an old butter tub or such cut up roughly .030-.045, doesn't really have to be plastic but easiest to work with and still remove if you ever wanted.. 2 sides of the tube will do fine if you can't find an exact fit. Too snug is a pain.. With the knob snugged down I've not had any trouble with twisting..


----------



## CookiMonster007

Huaco said:


> What CAD program are you going to use? I am in the middle of modeling this press in SolidWorks on my lunch breaks... I plan to save all the drawings as PDF files and email to 92 for his use and to disseminate as he sees fit. I am modeling it as weldments and it will have weldment cutlists.


Hi, did you manage to middle this up in Solid works?


Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk


----------



## brunson84

Tagged

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## mjydrafter

92safari said:


> There's roughly a .060 difference between the 2.. Just use some plastic stock .030-.060 ... Cut shims a tad narrow to stay out of the corners or you'll bind.. Loctite industrial super glue works well and it can still be chipped out if you ever needed to.. Can find plastic sheet at any hobby shop or store without having to buy a huge sheet.. Or be creative using old credit card stock roughly .025-.030, or you could even use an old butter tub or such cut up roughly .030-.045, doesn't really have to be plastic but easiest to work with and still remove if you ever wanted.. 2 sides of the tube will do fine if you can't find an exact fit. Too snug is a pain.. With the knob snugged down I've not had any trouble with twisting..


Another source for some decent plastic is an old Rubbermaid storage tub lid. It cuts pretty decent and is pretty slick, I use a pair of tin snips. Seems like everyone has an extra one laying around. That's what I used on my press. I haven't even glued it, it just stays in place.

You can see I even left a bit of one of the bends, to help keep it in place.


----------



## 92safari

Lol... Yup... I've used that too... Just depends on that particular load of steel.. Filing down the flash seem inside usually helps too...


----------



## 92safari

*FYI: *
Tomorrows the Last day I can get parts before the price hike...


----------



## gmcmachz

Very Nice build


----------



## Jcsrookie

Thanks to all for the help


----------



## brunson84

I'm new to the pressing game... do you guys think this looks sufficient? 2017 carbon defiant turbo









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## tirving

Looks pretty good.


----------



## brunson84

Sorry had a buss cable end upside down. Thanks









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

You could still lower the bow in the press a bit putting the contact point more at the axel... Fingers could tilt all the way forward and just square them up... The bow won't want to go up so you can utilize the radius on the fingers for contact... If you press too far below the axles (apex of the curve) the tips will flex backwards before the tips move forward to relax the string...
Now if you were tearing down you'd want the bow secured in the press with a pin on either side of the limbs, or at least 1 through the riser, and utilize the stops on the fingers.. Always...always press just enough to lift the string off the cam to free things up to do your work... Today's limbs have pretty definate limits to their flexibility...


----------



## brunson84

I'll keep that in mind, I'll prob make myself a step check sheet to tape to the table for safety purposes, thanks 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Gene1

Please clarify the comment on secure the pin to either side of the limb. I understand pin thru the riser to prevent bow from going up or down. 

I plan to build my press this spring.


----------



## Aspencer1982

Awesome write up! Looking forward to building mine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kballer1

Press tagged.


----------



## SheaXPO

tagged. so much info to dive into!! Thanks @92safari


----------



## SheaXPO

PM sent to you [mention]92safari [/mention] 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tirving

Gene1 said:


> Please clarify the comment on secure the pin to either side of the limb. I understand pin thru the riser to prevent bow from going up or down.
> 
> I plan to build my press this spring.


Sane thing for pins on either side of the limbs. Basically, you want to make sure, as you extend the press once the strings and cables are off, to completely let the limbs down/out, that the rest of the bow doesn't move at all. 
Many of us press with the pins on one side of the riser only, when completely letting a bow down, this might be a little unstable, although I think the pin on the grip would keep it pretty snug. I think that's what Bill may be referring to.


----------



## Gene1

Thanks


----------



## Vanniek71

So anyone have the paint by number of this kit? Got the uber kit and some stuff is easy to figure out but some other stuff had me scratching my head.

Even if not a full paint by number, which tube should I be welding the all thread nut in to? There are several that could fit the bill and I don’t want to weld something together and figure out later on that wasn’t right!


----------



## 92safari

I should see if there's a way to copy the pages and put them all together... The central Jack tube is pretty much the same all the way through except I use plastic for inside shims instead of welding fender washers inside the outer tube... The outer tube 1 1/2" x 33" gets the large washer for an end cap then 1 of the 1/2" washers will establish the center hole for the screw shaft at the end.. The other 1/2" washer is just used on the inside to help center the screw before welding on the outside washer to finish off the end cap...
The 1 1/4" x 42" is the inner tube.. With screw extended you place about 1/2 of the nut inside the end of the tube.. I clamp the tube next to another tube for a straight edge.. You can use a 5/16 bolt under the screw and between screw and straight edge to gauge it.. Just check that it's the same on the nut end... Cover your threads and tack all 4 sides then weld all the. Way around it filling the corners... You may have to clean and regreese, but that will get it set pretty darn straight... Run the screw back in nearly all the way when setting up your exit hole washer on the outer tube...
This will keep everything straight through the whole extension.. When cutting shims cut a bit narrow to stay out of the corners or it tends to get tight..


----------



## 92safari

Don't know why I don't get notifications anymore... Getting kind of annoying... Lol


----------



## Richardi503

A lot of information. Looks like I have something to build while I practice Stay AT HOME


----------



## Vanniek71

92safari said:


> I should see if there's a way to copy the pages and put them all together... The central Jack tube is pretty much the same all the way through except I use plastic for inside shims instead of welding fender washers inside the outer tube... The outer tube 1 1/2" x 33" gets the large washer for an end cap then 1 of the 1/2" washers will establish the center hole for the screw shaft at the end.. The other 1/2" washer is just used on the inside to help center the screw before welding on the outside washer to finish off the end cap...
> The 1 1/4" x 42" is the inner tube.. With screw extended you place about 1/2 of the nut inside the end of the tube.. I clamp the tube next to another tube for a straight edge.. You can use a 5/16 bolt under the screw and between screw and straight edge to gauge it.. Just check that it's the same on the nut end... Cover your threads and tack all 4 sides then weld all the. Way around it filling the corners... You may have to clean and regreese, but that will get it set pretty darn straight... Run the screw back in nearly all the way when setting up your exit hole washer on the outer tube...
> This will keep everything straight through the whole extension.. When cutting shims cut a bit narrow to stay out of the corners or it tends to get tight..


Awesome thanks, I was just confused because there are two of the 33” tubes (one may be 34, haven’t measured, so wasn’t 100% sure. I’m going to post pics before I weld so I can be 100% sure lol


----------



## 92safari

Hmmm.. Shouldn't have... There's only 1 long piece of 1 1/2"...


----------



## Vanniek71

92safari said:


> Hmmm.. Shouldn't have... There's only 1 long piece of 1 1/2"...


Nope you are right I measured the wrong tube.

It’s the 1 1/4” x 44 that I have 2 of. Assuming one of those is for the draw weight extension or the draw board


----------



## Vanniek71

Ok just for checking purposes, this is how it will look, except the larger tube needs the big washer welded on the end and then ground clean, then the smaller washer is welded on top of all that to have a nice clean centered rod.

The nut for the jack of course gets welded in to the 1 1/4” tube 

I think I was confused because there are some other 1 1/4” pieces that have holes drilled in them, and Waay back in the beginning of this thread where 92 shows how the jack part is assembled there were holes drilled to tack the jack screw nut in to the tube. Mine didn’t have any holes so wasn’t 100% sure


----------



## 92safari

Yup... The other long one is for caution bar (just gets the plastic end caps.. 2. 10.5"ones without holes are legs.. A 13" one with a hole is down leg of caution bar.. 26.5" pc. Is upper portion of the draw tower..


----------



## Vanniek71

92safari said:


> Yup... The other long one is for caution bar (just gets the plastic end caps.. 2. 10.5"ones without holes are legs.. A 13" one with a hole is down leg of caution bar.. 26.5" pc. Is upper portion of the draw tower..


Awesome thanks again, I’m sure I’ll be asking more questions as I go!

Got the Fingers and finger mounts painted as well as the fingers dipped. Wanted to do that now so they have however long it takes me to weld up everything else to cure.


----------



## 92safari

If you can... Allow a full 4 days to cure the dip... Otherwise it will be soft and end up splitting....


----------



## Vanniek71

92safari said:


> If you can... Allow a full 4 days to cure the dip... Otherwise it will be soft and end up splitting....


Oh no worries there, it will be weeks before its ready to be used anyways. I am still waiting for some welding magnets and a welding table to be shipped. Going on 4 weeks now.......


----------



## Vanniek71

And since we are on that subject, here they are all dipped and painted. The bubbles annoy me, but I can live with it LOL. Not sure what caused the Dip to bubble like that. I followed the directions to a T. Maybe I should have thinned it a little bit to allow the bubbles to escape easier.


----------



## MNJustin

Thank you for this thread. I built mine 4 years ago and I love coming back here to see others builds.


----------



## 92safari

Vanniek71 said:


> And since we are on that subject, here they are all dipped and painted. The bubbles annoy me, but I can live with it LOL. Not sure what caused the Dip to bubble like that. I followed the directions to a T. Maybe I should have thinned it a little bit to allow the bubbles to escape easier.


Looking good...


----------



## Vanniek71

Made some progress today! Got the washer welded on and blended as well as the jack nut welded in and all that smoother out. 
Just need to weld the centering washer on now and blend that and the hardest part is done!!


----------



## Vanniek71

Decided to go with metallic blue for the main color. Wanted to coat everything I can since I live in WI now and even plastic somehow manages to rust if not protected


----------



## Mttrekker

Great build!


----------



## 92safari

Nice work... One little tip I find helpful is I always orient the flash seams so they match up with each other... Ex: If flash seam is bottom side of outside tube; then its on bottom of inner tube.. Its helps whenever you take apart and reassemble just in case the screw shaft is a hair off from one side to another... Be sure the screw is all the way in now when you go to establish your final shaft hole in the end cap... this ensures straight travel from seated to fully extended without any binding along the way... Before final assembly; use a rag and screw gun to clean all the threads and reapply fresh greese; then zip it in and out a few times to distribute the new greese through all the threads... Inevidably youll get some dirt and debris from the welding and any dirt that may be inside the tubing..
All the rest is a piece of cake...
Oh... and remember to put some greese under your thrust bearing...


----------



## Vanniek71

Sweet thanks for the tips! I've already ran the screw in and out to clean the old grease off of it. Going to hit the inside of the outer tube with brake cleaner to clean it up a bit as well and hopefully that will limit the dirt that makes it on to the screw later. 

After the paint has cured I am going to add my shim tape to the inner arm and make sure that all fits together well. I bought some of the UHMW acrylic tape for the shimming so the paint on the smaller arm doesn't get messed up. 

I'll keep progress pics incoming, because what else is there to do really? LOL


----------



## 92safari

Vanniek71 said:


> Sweet thanks for the tips! I've already ran the screw in and out to clean the old grease off of it. Going to hit the inside of the outer tube with brake cleaner to clean it up a bit as well and hopefully that will limit the dirt that makes it on to the screw later.
> 
> After the paint has cured I am going to add my shim tape to the inner arm and make sure that all fits together well. I bought some of the UHMW acrylic tape for the shimming so the paint on the smaller arm doesn't get messed up.
> 
> I'll keep progress pics incoming, because what else is there to do really? LOL


Let's know how that tape works out and what size you're using... Some ways back in here we were using "Slick Strip" 1" wide x .030 thick... It did pretty well for the most part... The adhesive was ok, but real picky about when it wanted to stick...lol
I liked it but was getting kind of expensive.. Shipping was more than I was paying for the rolls...lol 
Anyway; I'd be interested to see how it works out tolerance wise with the size tape you chose. The tubes always vary a few thousanths from one to the next, but I see the tape has a better variety of thickness's than the Slick strip..


----------



## Vanniek71

Got the tape on, it’s thinner than I thought it would be and about 1/2 wide. So I ran 2 strips down each side and then put 2 strips on top of that. Essentially doubling the thickness.

This is the stuff I used - TapeCase 423-5 UHMW Tape Roll 1/2 in. (W) x 108 ft. (L) - Abrasion Resistant High Tack Acrylic Adhesive. Sealants and Tapes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00823JDD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S4qMEbWGM66GE










With the tape being on all 4 sides it took the slop out of the tubing pretty nicely. I have very minor wobble, and I don’t want to go any thicker with the tape because that might be too much 











Got the final washer welded in place also, need to clean it up still but it fits together great!


----------



## anthonyinva

this is one of the most informative diy projects I've seen to date, thanks for posting.


----------



## mlkrdma

PM sent.


----------



## justshutupnhunt

Well, I actually got a set of coat hangers back in 2012. Decided to build me a press. Got started on the project a couple of days ago. I'm definitely slow. I'll try to post some pics if I can figure it out.


----------



## justshutupnhunt




----------



## Vanniek71

Nice, looking good!

I just got back to mine as well tonight. Finished the end of the main large tube and am in the process of painting that 











Time to fire up the welder and get the finger assemblies built!


----------



## JFin15

I think lca stole their pack-n-go from here









Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

JFin15 said:


> I think lca stole their pack-n-go from here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


Lol... Its all good, and nothing new.... Thats how this build thread came to be years ago... you'll see striking similarities in the hoyt adapters to... Easy green came to be specifically because of these presses... That why I post all the details... A press is just a jack with a few handy attachments on it so you can squeeze a bow...lol
This set up just happens to press whatever you want... Pretty much the same design for over 10 years running... Heck... as far as Im aware; its still the only press that will readily even press the new super narrow, and reverse limbed crossbows just the way it is...


----------



## 92safari

Oh... bye the way:I did just get a finger order in, but I only got 50 sets... First come first served... I'll reopen listings in the classifides for presses, kits, and parts...


----------



## Vanniek71

Ok, putting the finger assemblies together and had a question, how do the bolts and knob that hold it tight go together?

I looked through the thread but couldn’t find a close up shot. 

I’ve got the long bolt, nut, washer and knob. I figure the knob I want on the side that isn’t threaded. Not sure where the nut goes and how the bolt threads in.


----------



## 92safari

I think page 50 covers fingers... That bolt will serve as the threaded rod for your span adjustment knob.. The head gets cut off... If you have a vise. Just clamp up a finger with threaded hole. Run the nut all the way down to the head of the bolt and back it off 2-3 threads. Then screw it all the way through the finger until the nut bottoms out. Snug that down being sure to leave 2-3 threads showing between the nut and bolt head.. Now reach around and spin the knob on the other end of the bolt until nice and snug... Using a cut off wheel; cut the head off the bolt keeping the wheel flush with the nut... This will keep from buggering up the threads.. Now just take the nut off and remove the threaded rod and knob from the finger and slide the 1/4" washer on before installing on the finger assembly... That's it...


----------



## Vanniek71

92safari said:


> I think page 50 covers fingers... That bolt will serve as the threaded rod for your span adjustment knob.. The head gets cut off... If you have a vise. Just clamp up a finger with threaded hole. Run the nut all the way down to the head of the bolt and back it off 2-3 threads. Then screw it all the way through the finger until the nut bottoms out. Snug that down being sure to leave 2-3 threads showing between the nut and bolt head.. Now reach around and spin the knob on the other end of the bolt until nice and snug... Using a cut off wheel; cut the head off the bolt keeping the wheel flush with the nut... This will keep from buggering up the threads.. Now just take the nut off and remove the threaded rod and knob from the finger and slide the 1/4" washer on before installing on the finger assembly... That's it...


Yeah I have them assembled based off page 50 but wasn't sure if the head was supposed to be cut off or not, and couldn't find anything about it. Thanks for the info, will have these all set up tonight!


----------



## Vanniek71

So like this? Chop off where red arrow is pointing. Then slide the plate that attaches to the sleeve back on right?


----------



## Texashunter07

Sent you a pm. Great work!


----------



## Texashunter07

Well after reading a good majority of the thread i ended up taking the plunge and gathering up the materials id need to make a press and a caution bar.
Cut all my pieces out today and going to start drilling and welding tomorrow more pictures to come


----------



## justshutupnhunt

Well, I finished mine. I welded in washers for spacers on mine. I used 7/16" washers and fender washers for spacers. The fit is good. well, I had to do a lot of filing because I did my washers before I welded everything together. My suggestion to someone that's going to use washers for spacers is weld all parts together before you weld in the spacers. I'm a pro at filing down washers now. LOL. It's time to tear it down and paint it now. If you look at the close up of the coat hanger and the bottom of the cam,this is what prompted me to build this press. After pressing the bow, I should have built this a looooong time ago. Thanks 92Safari and all who have posted here. I probably wouldn't have built this without this thread.


----------



## 92safari

Nice!! Lol... Boy I feel ya on filing... I tried showing several ways of skinning this cat...lol
You got it looking good...


----------



## Texashunter07

Well after a couple nights of working i got the main body made up! Works great just need to add my slick tape inside the tubing.
Was there anything you did to prep for the tape to make sure it sticks good?
Now to get some fingers and finish my caution bar.


----------



## Vanniek71

Looks great man! I need to weld up the body now.

As far as getting the tape to stick, I just painted the smaller tube and when the paint was good and cured I stuck the tape on. Didn’t have any adhesion issues.


----------



## Texashunter07

Vanniek71 said:


> Looks great man! I need to weld up the body now.
> 
> As far as getting the tape to stick, I just painted the smaller tube and when the paint was good and cured I stuck the tape on. Didn’t have any adhesion issues.


Alright ill give that a try what ill probably do is just throw some primer and let it cure then put the tape down


----------



## Texashunter07

Did a dry fit for the caution bar. Might have to cut off a couple nuts that the threads some how got boogered up and once thats done its painting time. Also picked up some fingers from 92safari which im excited to get!


----------



## 92safari

Texashunter07 said:


> Did a dry fit for the caution bar. Might have to cut off a couple nuts that the threads some how got boogered up and once thats done its painting time. Also picked up some fingers from 92safari which im excited to get!


Just get a tap and chase it clean... Sometimes you just get some spatter in the threads.. Nice having fresh cut anyhow...


----------



## Gene1

I was wondering if you flap disc all the steel and it’s all smooth and shinny. If kept indoors will it rust? Just don’t want the paint scratched up.

I need to start working on mine. Had the fingers and steel since late last year.


----------



## Texashunter07

Gene1 said:


> I was wondering if you flap disc all the steel and it’s all smooth and shinny. If kept indoors will it rust? Just don’t want the paint scratched up.
> 
> I need to start working on mine. Had the fingers and steel since late last year.


I would imagine it depends on where you live. Down here in Texas if it aint painted then it will rust in a day lol


----------



## Gene1

Was googling and saw blackening steel. Very interesting process. Started welding not too long ago. Currently making a fire escape window guard for my kid’s apartment. Going to just rattle can spray that. Was thinking of making a front door gate for my house if the window gate turned out good.

Well my wife saw the gate and likes it. She want me to replace the current kitchen island built with 2 Book cases with butcher block top. She wants leg room and put chairs around it. I’ll figure I’ll finally build my bow press to practice my tube steel welding. Projects never end.


----------



## 92safari

Yeah... You have to seal it off some how... Oil.. Clear coat..wax... Something...


----------



## Gene1

Question on the caution bar, what size Dia is the bolt or threaded rod is that and are you using that rod also to lock the slide in place?


----------



## Texashunter07

Gene1 said:


> Question on the caution bar, what size Dia is the bolt or threaded rod is that and are you using that rod also to lock the slide in place?


I used 1/2in bolts.. i think that's what 92safari said to use


----------



## 92safari

Texashunter07 said:


> Gene1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question on the caution bar, what size Dia is the bolt or threaded rod is that and are you using that rod also to lock the slide in place?
> 
> 
> 
> I used 1/2in bolts.. i think that's what 92safari said to use
Click to expand...

Yup... They don't see a lot of pressure; so a grade #2 is fine... I mostly use 8" long which is more than enough and easy to reach...


----------



## Texashunter07

Well got it all painted up (went with my old college school colors) just waiting on my fingers so i can weld them on to my brackets then paint those and its time to press some bows


----------



## Gene1

Looking very nice.


----------



## Texashunter07

Gene1 said:


> Looking very nice.


Thank you! The spray paint its holding up as great as i would have liked but just a few little touch ups are needed.


----------



## etrips

Texashunter07 said:


> Well got it all painted up (went with my old college school colors) just waiting on my fingers so i can weld them on to my brackets then paint those and its time to press some bows


What kind of spray paint did you use?


----------



## Texashunter07

etrips said:


> What kind of spray paint did you use?


Rustoleum im kinda thinking of throwing a coat of clearcoat on the parts to help make the paint a little more durable


----------



## bseckinger

I've done a fair amount of looking and cannot seem to find a comprehensive materials list. Is there one here somewhere? Got a set of fingers in the mail yesterday and they appear to be great quality. Thanks 92.


----------



## Cjohanson1

Safari92 any way to get a set of fingers…
Don’t have my post yet so it won’t let me pm you


----------



## 92safari

Cjohanson1 said:


> Safari92 any way to get a set of fingers…
> Don’t have my post yet so it won’t let me pm you


Yup... Sent you a message...


----------



## bseckinger

Any good resources for a hand wheel? The Grizzly listed near the beginning is no longer available.


----------



## bowbender300

Grizzly H3187 - Solid Body Handwheel - 8"
image of product H3187

image of product H3187

These Solid Body Handwheels really ease movement. Bore is 5/16". Handle attachment hole is unthreaded. Handles sold separately. Size: 8"


----------



## bseckinger

Thanks bowbender.


----------



## gsmiley

Your welder can cost a lot less than the materials for your press. I just got a 200 amp EMF vertical choke welder at the recycler in working order for $30. They are just scrap copper now with all those crappy little solid state things out there the size of a handbag which are nice but they don't last. So if you have four square feet of floorspace. And if you can get hold of a skookum rectifier set-up at the same place you can set it up as a TIG for a couple hundred. My own big TIG cost a heck of a lot less - found it at the recycler too on top of a pile of trash and they guy let me take it home to check out. The guts (same as the EMF) were fine, all the rest didn't work. Replaced the big ballast capacitor on the HF overlay with a couple little Russian jet engine door-knob capacitors from Ebay and rewired all that extra stuff to include two little vacuum delay relays for start/stop/continuous on the gas and HF and a used torch, hoses and regulator.


----------



## gsmiley

Are any? Mark with masking tape and REMOVE your draw stops first.


----------



## 92safari

gsmiley said:


> Your welder can cost a lot less than the materials for your press. I just got a 200 amp EMF vertical choke welder at the recycler in working order for $30. They are just scrap copper now with all those crappy little solid state things out there the size of a handbag which are nice but they don't last. So if you have four square feet of floorspace. And if you can get hold of a skookum rectifier set-up at the same place you can set it up as a TIG for a couple hundred. My own big TIG cost a heck of a lot less - found it at the recycler too on top of a pile of trash and they guy let me take it home to check out. The guts (same as the EMF) were fine, all the rest didn't work. Replaced the big ballast capacitor on the HF overlay with a couple little Russian jet engine door-knob capacitors from Ebay and rewired all that extra stuff to include two little vacuum delay relays for start/stop/continuous on the gas and HF and a used torch, hoses and regulator.


Man you lost me at flux capacitor...lol


----------



## BowBaker1640

Quick question,How long after painting the fingers is it safe to dip them in the rubber? Also how long between cotes of rubber? thank you


----------



## 92safari

BowBaker1640 said:


> Quick question,How long after painting the fingers is it safe to dip them in the rubber? Also how long between cotes of rubber? thank you


Really depends on the paint... Dips not compatible with many canned paints... I usually paint just prior to last coat of dip... At least a few hours to a day between coats if you want a good solid cure (not dry)... After dipping give them 4 days for a final cure before using and it will last a long time...


----------



## BowBaker1640

92safari said:


> Really depends on the paint... Dips not compatible with many canned paints... I usually paint just prior to last coat of dip... At least a few hours to a day between coats if you want a good solid cure (not dry)... After dipping give them 4 days for a final cure before using and it will last a long time...


hopefully it will be compatible with rustoleum. I just spent all day painting my press


----------



## 92safari

You'll know within 20 minutes or so if the dip just bubbles up and drips off... If so just sand off where you want the dip...


----------



## Majuba

Hi Mate. Would love to order the short kit for the press as discussed a few weeks back. Do you have any available to ship in the next few weeks?


----------



## BowBaker1640

92safari said:


> You'll know within 20 minutes or so if the dip just bubbles up and drips off... If so just sand off where you want the dip...


seems to be working


----------



## Majuba

Just to confirm - the Plasi Dip brand is the best to use?


----------



## 92safari

Majuba said:


> Just to confirm - the Plasi Dip brand is the best to use?


It's the best thing ive used as long as you give it enough cure time before using...


----------



## Majuba

Thanks 92Safari

Have you got any short kits ready to go at the moment?


----------



## 92safari

Majuba said:


> Thanks 92Safari
> 
> Have you got any short kits ready to go at the moment?


Kits are no problem... Wouldn't be able to pick fingers up until Monday though (couldn't afford to pay for the whole order up front)... (Tip: it's the 5 pieces of longer tubes that really jack up shipping costs $50-$70 avg.)


----------



## Majuba

92safari said:


> Majuba said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks 92Safari
> 
> Have you got any short kits ready to go at the moment?
> 
> 
> 
> Kits are no problem... Wouldn't be able to pick fingers up until Monday though (couldn't afford to pay for the whole order up front)... (Tip: it's the 5 pieces of longer tubes that really jack up shipping costs $50-$70 avg.)
Click to expand...

Thanks 92safari
Tried to send you a pm.
Do you have an email I can contact you at?


----------



## 92safari

Majuba said:


> 92safari said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Majuba said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks 92Safari
> 
> Have you got any short kits ready to go at the moment?
> 
> 
> 
> Kits are no problem... Wouldn't be able to pick fingers up until Monday though (couldn't afford to pay for the whole order up front)... (Tip: it's the 5 pieces of longer tubes that really jack up shipping costs $50-$70 avg.)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks 92safari
> Tried to send you a pm.
> Do you have an email I can contact you at?
Click to expand...

Yup... More reliable anyway... [email protected] 
Picked up some finger sets today... I got 3 extra sets after everything goes out this week...


----------



## Majuba

Thanks Mate. I sent you an email.


----------



## 92safari

I appreciate the patience of you guys waiting on a finished set up... Once I have fingers for finished presses it takes a while to get 4 coats of dip on them and cured... 8 individual fingers x 4 coats... That's 32 coats of dip with AT least 2 hours between coats to dry (AT least 64 hours), and then 4 days to cure after the last coat, and that's each set...lol
Kits go out much faster since there's no dipping to do... 
Thanks


----------



## Gene1

Can you dip both sides of the finger and then hang them up to dry?

How many cans of dip would you need?


----------



## 92safari

Gene1 said:


> Can you dip both sides of the finger and then hang them up to dry?
> 
> How many cans of dip would you need?


lol.... boy I wish you could... Youll need two cans of dip to do all 8 fingers... You have to hang them at a wierd angle so the natural drip comes off at the tips and slightly at the bottom so you can touch and drag off excess without a big messy booger at the ends as it forms a skin... Too much angle or too little leaves a web at the tips, or a big blob hanging from the bottom... As it gets close to being done dripping you just touch it up literally to a clean finish so the next coat goes on smoothly as well...
You can do all this by cutting and bending a coat hanger to hang them at a good angle.. I'll take some pics today to give you a better idea...


----------



## Gene1

I appreciate that. I should be cutting and welding the steel tubes soon. Got these fingers months ago.


----------



## 92safari

*Finger dipping*

Here are some pics to bend up a simple jig hanger for the fingers while you dip them... You can adjust the angle to control where it drips from... You dont want them leaning too far forward which will give you webbing at the finger tips, and you dont want them leaning too far backwards either which will give you a big ugly mohawk drip off the back side of the fingers... Works out pretty good if you try to to get them relatively level (mounting tails parallel to floor)... You want your drip to hang off of the backside tip of the finger tips... After a couple minutes of dripping; use a piece of wire or something to gently drag off any excess from the backside of the finger tip to the very tip, and then touch it up so theres very little if any sign of a drip or tail hanging... Let that set for a couple hours before dipping again... only 2-3 coats at first so you can flip them and get 2-3 coats on the upper fingers as well... Now paint the exposed steel before giving the the final dipping... Then let them cure at least 4 days before using them... Theyll last much longer if allowed to cure good first... Otherwise theyll be too soft and crush, and split... Save your deepest dipping for last to be sure you have enough, plus it will leave a finishe edge over any paint over spray...


----------



## 92safari

*finger dipping 2*

more


----------



## Gene1

Great thanks


----------



## Majuba

Good on ya Mate. Thanks for the update


----------



## BobaSethVincent

you guys are giving me way too many ideas. If I wasn't already single, I would be soon


----------



## Gene1

Finally had some time to get this project going. Steel is mostly cut. Just missing the arms for the fingers assemblyNeed to figure out how long to cut them and with draw board attachment. 
Question on the knobs. I have lots of 1/4-20 nuts and bolts and 3/8” nuts and bolts. I was wondering if a single 1/4-20 will be ok to bolt against The steel for the caution bar and leg attachment and 2 -3/8” bolts for the tail piece. Would that 1/4-20 be under and 2- 3/8” over kill? 
If I need to order the 5/16 knob bolts it will be a week to 2 before I get it.
I will not be always using the press so a wrench on the bolts would be fine for me.
How high should the leg be? Once I get the finger arms figure out and caution bar, I can see how much clearance I actual need. It looks to high.


----------



## Gene1

Deleted


----------



## Gene1

I think I’ll be installing a second 1/4-20 nut on the adjacent side of the tube just incase it’s needed.


----------



## Kona1

This is great! Will have to eventually try this. Thanks 92safari!


----------



## Gene1

Slowly but definitely moving forward.
Legs and Caution bar mounts filed, drilled, nut and bolts all set and ready to be welded.


----------



## Gene1

Question!

Would you advised for or against welding a fender washers on the inner tube near the cranking arm side and still install the fender washers on the main tube.
This would need to be welded, painted and nest before you weld the larger washer on the main tube. 
I see this will prevent any wobble on the inner extension tube. You will have shims on both ends will keep the tube parallel.
Only down side I see is you can’t take apart the extension tube incase there is ever a problem with the nut you welded on. You can’t repaint the inner extension tube at a later date but you can’t see it anyway.
I didn’t think there will be alignment problem with the main tube because you will already have the inner tube nested, rod installed before you weld the larger washers. Yes welding and grinding with inner tube will be a little harder.
Any thoughts?


----------



## Gene1

HF was out of stock in the jack so I ordered one from some where else. I got a Curt 5000lb jack.
Do NOT get this one. The rod is 3/4” and the nut will have no play when cutting it. Going to have a hard time but hopefully it can be done.

This would have been nice if it was going into the 1-1/2” tubing.


----------



## Gene1

This looks like a brass piece. Can you mig steel to brass?

Looks like I will need to weld a piece of 1” tubing on the inside to keep this nut in place.


----------



## Gene1

Nothing is simple anymore. Rod does not fit into 1” tube. Will need to cut the corners where the nut is and just insert flat stock and weld so this will pin the nut in place.


----------



## Gene1

Question
To break down a bow completely.

The way I see it, if you press the bow to relax the strings the bow riser may or may not move downs a bit. 
To fully break down the bow, once the string is removed and you crank to open the arms. The riser will move up.
So if I’m to strap on the riser to the caution bar, how will that work?


----------



## 138104

Gene1 said:


> Question
> To break down a bow completely.
> 
> The way I see it, if you press the bow to relax the strings the bow riser may or may not move downs a bit.
> To fully break down the bow, once the string is removed and you crank to open the arms. The riser will move up.
> So if I’m to strap on the riser to the caution bar, how will that work?


It doesn't need to move up. The riser can remain stationary while the limbs relax.


----------



## tirving

Gene1 said:


> Question
> To break down a bow completely.
> 
> The way I see it, if you press the bow to relax the strings the bow riser may or may not move downs a bit.
> To fully break down the bow, once the string is removed and you crank to open the arms. The riser will move up.
> So if I’m to strap on the riser to the caution bar, how will that work?


You should also have the bar that goes in the grip, stopping it from moving up. This is what's needed for the vertical draw board.


----------



## Gene1

Almost done.


----------



## bigbuckdj

My build is a little different, I redid my old press I made in high school. I redid the tubing on the extension arm to accept the archerydezign draw board, repainted, made some new aluminum stands, and gave it some 92 safari coat hangers. It works great! Ignore my junked up work bench.

Before









After









Mounted with my aluminum stands








I also added some of this hdpe tape to clean up some of the slop in the nestable tubing










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ballingerjon

i seem to having a hard finding the dimensions to st the width of the pressing arms. I am not sure what width to weld the arms that hold the fingers. I was hoping to find the minimum measurement and the widest measurement when its at full extention. If someone could possible help me out with this i would greatly appreciate it.


----------



## 92safari

Not sure what you mean unless you're going with fixed position arms...
The modular arms slide and can be reversed to achieve absolute minimum ata


----------



## Ballingerjon

I was able to locate what i was looking for in another thread. Thank you though


----------



## Gene1

The painful process has started lol.
Very interesting the top plastic dip runs off. I dip it slowly in and slowly out.

I guess next layer I’ll leave it in a little longer to coat the top.

Yes I did clean the whole piece with acetone.


----------



## Gene1

Draw board attachments. Swap out the tail piece and swap out the finger assembly.


----------



## whitecaps

I'm very impressed. Looks super heavy duty. I'm interested.


----------



## Trknick

Started this last fall, finally got around to finishing it and painting it. Very excited to change some strings today!


----------



## leoncrandall74

Trknick said:


> Started this last fall, finally got around to finishing it and painting it. Very excited to change some strings today!
> View attachment 7282314
> View attachment 7282314
> View attachment 7282315
> View attachment 7282316


Beautiful job!! It'll probably be the best archery investment you'll ever make

Sent from my SM-G532M using Tapatalk


----------



## conundrum5

Gene1 said:


> Draw board attachments. Swap out the tail piece and swap out the finger assembly.


Update due🤪


----------



## klukdog

nice looking press. Hopefully I will have one to show off soon. I teach HS social studies and a student started one for me as a metal shop project.... then the COVID hit... I am still waiting


----------



## 92safari

You guys have been busy...
I don't even get notifications anymore with this new format... Not a fan of it...


----------



## Ballingerjon

Here is the start of another bow press. I built one just like this years ago but it was backwards. This time I figured I would build it the correct direction lol.


----------



## Gene1

Finally finished the bow press and draw board. Ok just need a hook on the vertical pole to hold the bow along with the safety bar.
I cleaned the steel and applied Penetrol on it. I like the raw steel look.
Yes it’s a heavy duty press and heavy. 39lbs with safety bar. Draw 100lbs a breeze. I won’t be drawing that weight lol.
Even have the plastic end caps for the finishing touches.

maybe I’ll weld a vertical tube to hold draw board attachments in the back.


----------



## Gene1

Press the bow today just because I needed to test it out.


----------



## 92safari

Looking Good...


----------



## LBD

Thanks for making this post, inspired me to make an a-frame press myself.

Sent from my SM-G925P using Archery Talk forum - Apps on Google Play


----------



## Gene1

Added the vertical bar in the back to secure the optional parts.
Can swap out with the fingers when using as a draw board. 
This keeps everything together and not all over the bench or around the shop.


----------



## Gene1

Draw board works great. Fine adjustments are made with the bow press handle.
Took the bow apart today to lube the limb pockets. Had a creaking sound that was annoying. Now not a squeak.


----------



## 92safari

Great... Nice job... Now if you set up a draw tower; you can do your timing and yoke tuning without removing the bow from the press... You're looking good...


----------



## Gene1

I have to agree with 92safari. I finally used this press to check cam lean and to make some adjustments. It was time consuming to keep swapping out the fingers to draw attachment. It looked like a great idea as I saw other have done that. A draw tower would be easier as mention on the post above.
Lucky I still have the pipe clamp bow press I built 10 years ago. I pulled it out and set that up on the table behind me so I just turn around to press and make the string adjustments.
The old pipe press did not allow full bow take down. That’s the reason I built the new one.


----------



## tirving

Gene1 said:


> I have to agree with 92safari. I finally used this press to check cam lean and to make some adjustments. It was time consuming to keep swapping out the fingers to draw attachment. It looked like a great idea as I saw other have done that. A draw tower would be easier as mention on the post above.
> Lucky I still have the pipe clamp bow press I built 10 years ago. I pulled it out and set that up on the table behind me so I just turn around to press and make the string adjustments.
> The old pipe press did not allow full bow take down. That’s the reason I built the new one.


Exactly. 92safari has these parts set up as a shooting machine instead of a draw board. You can use it to draw, but a draw tower, or Archerydesignz draw board that slides into the square tubing is much more functional. I have both, I only use the Archerydesignz draw board as a shooting machine, or to check 3rd axis at full draw, and I rarely do those. 
I honestly can't imagine not having a vertical draw tower. It's so much easier than the horizontal draw boards, riser doesn't move, I can micro move the draw throughout to check lots of things. When I'm done, it's about a 3-5 second process to press again.


----------



## Gene1

I only work on my own bow and once it’s tune it’s all good. Will check cam timing only once in a while. But if I decide to complete the vertical tower which pulley system are you using?

I can easily convert the draw winch attachment to fit into the arms. I didn’t like that idea because it will be that much farther away from the main tubes. I’m sure it’s not a problem structurally.
I had a shooter on the draw board made with kindoff. Now it’s a string making jig. Easy to convert and does not take up space.
Have to say this press is nice but it’s big. I need more room.


----------



## tirving

Gene1 said:


> I only work on my own bow and once it’s tune it’s all good. Will check cam timing only once in a while. But if I decide to complete the vertical tower which pulley system are you using?
> 
> I can easily convert the draw winch attachment to fit into the arms. I didn’t like that idea because it will be that much farther away from the main tubes. I’m sure it’s not a problem structurally.
> I had a shooter on the draw board made with kindoff. Now it’s a string making jig. Easy to convert and does not take up space.
> Have to say this press is nice but it’s big. I need more room.


If you go vertical tower, go Tuf Tug Block and Tackle.


----------



## Gene1

Thanks. But that’s a long block and tackle setup. May not have the ceiling height. Or need to lower the cart. For the amount of bow press work I do. I’ll think I’ll stick with what I have.
I’ll use the old pipe press to do the string adjustments and turn around to full draw bow.


----------



## mscott327

Gene1 said:


> Thanks. But that’s a long block and tackle setup. May not have the ceiling height. Or need to lower the cart. For the amount of bow press work I do. I’ll think I’ll stick with what I have.
> I’ll use the old pipe press to do the string adjustments and turn around to full draw bow.
> View attachment 7306679


I have both (vertical and horizontal draw towers) from 92safari. I dont like the vertical. I like the horizontal, but having to swap out the draw components with the finger attachments is a pain in the @$$. I mainly just use my DIY draw board alongside my press. It literally takes a minute to remove the bow and put it on the drawboard.


----------



## tirving

Gene1 said:


> Thanks. But that’s a long block and tackle setup. May not have the ceiling height. Or need to lower the cart. For the amount of bow press work I do. I’ll think I’ll stick with what I have.
> I’ll use the old pipe press to do the string adjustments and turn around to full draw bow.
> View attachment 7306679


My press site up at 40" on the stand I have for it. 9-10" ceilings are fine for all of the bows I've pressed. I'm pretty sure 9' is perfect, I have 10' in my garage.


----------



## crankn101

Any pics of a vertical tower?


----------



## 92safari

You know I do make the mounts to use the horizontal attachments bolted to the bench instead of the press if you wanted a seperate draw board arrangement....if I can figure out how to get to my pics now...


----------



## klukdog

Metal Shop at my school is making me a bow press as one of their projects. (from plans I found here on AT. The shop teacher loved it. said it was exactly the kind of project he looks for. We are in rural Western PA so it could become a popular project)

They need tension springs for the fingers. they would be going on 5/8' diameter rod. 

Does anyone have suggestion of what springs and/or where to purchase said springs?


----------



## 92safari

I use Hillman #48 springs... 5/8" will be pretty snug fit, but lows has some that are just a bit wider diameter and still lite enough to do the job... Kept on a rack next to Velcro...


----------



## Vanniek71

Winter again here in the Great cold AF north, time to get back at this project! I lost this thread for a while after the board change, glad to see its still around! Will post some updates soon!


----------



## BrapAddict

Do most people run standard 2” square with 1/8” wall and then go with 1-3/4” for the slider? Is there a special telescoping steel?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nighthawkF-117

I went with 1-3/4" 14ga outer, 1-1/2" inner. I did have to remove the weld seam inside the 1-3/4", but the fit is great now. You can find telescoping steel but its much more expensive. If you can remove the weld seam yourself its very inexpensive.


----------



## Gene1

I built it like the OP using 1-1/2” and 1-1/4” both 14 gauge. No problem with any seam. Just needed to use washer to shim the gap for less play.


----------



## Nitehawk20

Hey all! New to the forum.
Very interested in building one of these presses (love the versatility), but this is a really long thread.
Anybody have a consolidated list of the posts with the parts lists for all of the different assemblies (press, caution bar, draw tower, hangar assembly, etc.)?


----------



## Gene1

Welcome !

The press material list is on the first page.

I just used my own lengths when I was cutting it. I made sure I can press my bow with at least a 40 ATA. I add extra length to allow for full break down of bow and addition foot and change to stay inside the tube to keep solid.


----------



## Nitehawk20

I'm having a hard time finding a source of affordable 14GA tube. Most suppliers want me to purchase full 24' lengths.
There is one supplier that will give me the lengths I need, but only 16GA. Do you think that this will be strong enough?
I can use shims or slick strips to limit the slop.


----------



## 92safari

16 is getting pretty thin...


----------



## Nitehawk20

I would be using it for bows only. No crossbows.


----------



## Cissell

92safari said:


> 16 is getting pretty thin...


Are you still selling the kits for these?


----------



## 92safari

Already got rid of them all from last week... I can cut some more while I'm doing parts for the Monster Pac'sthis week if you want one let me know... I'm ordering up more fingers and mounts tomorrow..
Bil


----------



## Cissell

What it the current price shipped?


----------



## 92safari

You can shoot me a message with what you're looking for, or there's a couple listings in the classifieds... Getting a lot of fellas that haven't actually read the thread as far as assembly... I'm gonna try putting a string of assembly pics together so it's easier to follow... It's all really simple, but a lot of parts to look at if you haven't researched the thread...


----------



## Twstewart

Hey Everyone,

Has anyone posted any videos to Youtube of them doing this particular build?

Thanks.


----------



## tirving

92safari said:


> You can shoot me a message with what you're looking for, or there's a couple listings in the classifieds... Getting a lot of fellas that haven't actually read the thread as far as assembly... I'm gonna try putting a string of assembly pics together so it's easier to follow... It's all really simple, but a lot of parts to look at if you haven't researched the thread...


Reading threads is not something people do anymore unfortunately; they ask for people to spell it out for them and get angry when they don't. I had a person PM me about some of the posts I've written on your press about more info. He bought one, then asked about assembly. 
I PM-ed him links to the thread, I might have even given him links to the specific posts with assembly pics. He got mad that I didn't take the time to explain it to him.


----------



## MeArrow

tirving said:


> Reading threads is not something people do anymore unfortunately; they ask for people to spell it out for them and get angry when they don't. I had a person PM me about some of the posts I've written on your press about more info. He bought one, then asked about assembly.
> I PM-ed him links to the thread, I might have even given him links to the specific posts with assembly pics. He got mad that I didn't take the time to explain it to him.


Yes. Unfortunately you're right. We, as a techno addicted, social media driven society, expect all answers to be given to us simply by interfacing with an always connected digital device. We have discarded the value of the learning process. That is the cold hard truth. And, unless we are driven back to the stone age by our own incompetence, we are destined to become an epistemological cartoon.


----------



## 92safari

Oh boy do I get it... 
Latest was just a compact crossbow press... Literally 7 pieces... 5 of which literally just slide on and done... 2 bolts... Wrote instructions... Sent pics... More instructions, links, and more pics... And still mad... Mind you most of this after midnight more than once... Just don't know how to make things any simpler, but scares me to think of fellas like this trying to press crossbows... I'm sure I'll get an email about cracked limbs next... Guess I assume someone has read the thread when they contact me....
I know videos would be helpful, but I just haven't had the time, or equipment to do one properly...
#justdowhatyoucando


----------



## tirving

92safari said:


> Oh boy do I get it...
> Latest was just a compact crossbow press... Literally 7 pieces... 5 of which literally just slide on and done... 2 bolts... Wrote instructions... Sent pics... More instructions, links, and more pics... And still mad... Mind you most of this after midnight more than once... Just don't know how to make things any simpler, but scares me to think of fellas like this trying to press crossbows... I'm sure I'll get an email about cracked limbs next... Guess I assume someone has read the thread when they contact me....
> I know videos would be helpful, but I just haven't had the time, or equipment to do one properly...
> #justdowhatyoucando


Seriously, you're going to press a bow or crossbow and tinker with something that's been designed and engineered.... And you can figure out how to put together your press?
Good luck with that.


----------



## EverestWC

I have the 92Safari modular inline press. One thing that could be helpful (that I had trouble finding) was a few close up CLEAR pictures of where everything goes. Three decent pictures of each configuration would be helpful to someone that receives the box of parts.
Could be as simple as a new thread on AT titled 
“92Safari Modular Inline Press Pictures” This would enable other users to post their pics there also which would be cool.
In the box of parts you could also simply include a print-out with the actual web link typed out for the new owner. 

That being said I got mine together without much issue, but it is an expensive purchase and could have been simpler and would make the new owner feel better about their purchase.

(My .02 and probably worth .01)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tirving

EverestWC said:


> I have the 92Safari modular inline press. One thing that could be helpful (that I had trouble finding) was a few close up CLEAR pictures of where everything goes. Three decent pictures of each configuration would be helpful to someone that receives the box of parts.
> Could be as simple as a new thread on AT titled
> “92Safari Modular Inline Press Pictures” This would enable other users to post their pics there also which would be cool.
> In the box of parts you could also simply include a print-out with the actual web link typed out for the new owner.
> 
> That being said I got mine together without much issue, but it is an expensive purchase and could have been simpler and would make the new owner feel better about their purchase.
> 
> (My .02 and probably worth .01)
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do you mean, like this info?
Finger assembly:








Lets build a Slimline inline together.


Thanks for the clarification; I will send you a pm.




www.archerytalk.com




and








Lets build a Slimline inline together.


Thanks for the clarification; I will send you a pm.




www.archerytalk.com





Whole assembly - starts here:








Lets build a Slimline inline together.


Thanks for the clarification; I will send you a pm.




www.archerytalk.com





Good pic of one completed:








Lets build a Slimline inline together.


Thanks for the clarification; I will send you a pm.




www.archerytalk.com





More on the Caution Bar/Draw tower:








Lets build a Slimline inline together.


Thanks for the clarification; I will send you a pm.




www.archerytalk.com





You're right, it's an expensive tool, but blowing up your bow is too so even though the thread on this press is huge there's a ton of info in it and spending a couple of hours with the wealth of info in it is probably worth it. 

I found these posts by searching. Something else to keep in mind. This started as a DIY project and folks asked Bill to make them. This isn't much of a business venture as it is a labor of love.


----------



## EverestWC

Please don’t take my response as a bash by any means. Bill is a very kind man and has benefited diy archers greatly with his tools and it’s obvious he enjoys doing it.
Thank you for the links. I apologize if my error in searching was taken the wrong way. I personally wasn’t able to easily find those links using Tapatalk and was just giving a suggestion. 
Perhaps Bill could print out those links and send a copy with each purchase. 

Thank you all again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gene1

This thread has tons of information and very informative. When I had a question and posted here, Bill answered the question and posted pics of how to bend the wire coat hangers how it was done. (Dipping the fingers.)
It was super easy when he explained it.

Bill is a great guy to deal with.


----------



## 92safari

I dont sweat constructive criticism... You're right... It would be helpful to put someof this together as an assembly packet anyway... Dont know that my pecking finger can type out everything you can do, all the different ways to set up to do all the various things... I actually use it to stretch my crossbow strings out so i can reserve strings and cables aside from pressing as well...
The hard part is working off a phone for the last 4 years...lol
We should have a fiber optic line out here shortly which will help emensely just by having a pc to use again... Cant do a whole lot off of phone apps.... I'll be caught up on presses and parts shipping tomorrow so i'll start putting some pics together in a file to make up some instructions... I havent really posted any picsof the draw board mounts for the bench so it can be used back and forth between the press itself and a bench mounted draw board... I've just been adding it to the full set up packages... Only be doing it for 15 years or so as a one man band: so i should be getting the hang of it pretty soon...lol
what I need is someone else to handle emails so i can stay building and chasing parts and materials...lol
i'll get the hang of it...


----------



## EverestWC

Bill... you’ve made a great product and I’ve showed it off to my local archery shop. I think he’s going to be getting one from you also. Thanks again!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

mscott327 said:


> I have both (vertical and horizontal draw towers) from 92safari. I dont like the vertical. I like the horizontal, but having to swap out the draw components with the finger attachments is a pain in the @$$. I mainly just use my DIY draw board alongside my press. It literally takes a minute to remove the bow and put it on the drawboard.


I do make bench mounts for the horizontal attachments so it can be set up and switch easily back and forth from press to bench or just as a seperate set up...

Sent from my LM-Q720 using Archery Talk forum - Apps on Google Play


----------



## 92safari

BrapAddict said:


> Do most people run standard 2” square with 1/8” wall and then go with 1-3/4” for the slider? Is there a special telescoping steel?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That should work as well... I use 14 gu. 1 1/2" & 1 1/4"... Thing about closer tolerances is the flash seam on the inside varies on each piece... You can get lucky if you find some with a corner seam... Those are usually lower profile allowing for a sliding fit... I've found it much easier to just shim the 14 gu. Steel...

Sent from my LM-Q720 using Archery Talk forum - Apps on Google Play


----------



## 92safari

New format... New thing... No more supporting sponsorships... Got choices ranging from $200 a month to $5k...lol
Hell to the no!! Can't even get pm's straight, files and pics gone, can't navigate or search, censor and dictate policy... I just don't see how any of this is an "upgrade" let alone enough to justify a 700% increase for minimal participation... "Archers supporting archers"... Yeah... Right...lol
Sure sounds like a participation control strategy to me... Dunno, but definitely not worth $200 a month to maybe clear 5...lol


----------



## outdoorbum

That sucks about the fee change 92safari. I can say that this forum is the reason I have and use Bill's (92safari) press. Hope this doesn't mean that we loose great members with a wealth of intelligence


----------



## 92safari

Lol... I see even this thread has been censored... This whole cancel culture thing is getting old...
Im looking into a broadband connection now so I can just start going through my own website, and youtube channel for instructional videos instead of this unreliable, scrambled arrangement... Should make things easier anyhow...
Dropping off the rest of the kits, and presses for this week now for you fellas waiting...
Later tonite Ill try to post some pics of the optional horizontal draw board mounts for the bench... Pieces can be used either on the press, or seperately on the face of your bench with these... I mostly use the draw tower for synching and tweaking...


----------



## ccdog

I'm looking forward to the post and pics on the horizontal draw board mounts for sure.


----------



## 92safari

These are the optional bench mounted draw board mounts using the same winch mount and bow pivot that can also be slipped onto the press if preferred, or for setting up as a shooter...
(Now I just gotta try and load the darn pics... "Upgraded" format ya know)...

Sent from my LM-Q720 using Archery Talk forum - Apps on Google Play


----------



## 92safari

So doing some t







inking... If I did want to start an assembly and set up thread where people could just post various pics of their presses and the bows they're pressing by model name so anyone could surf through and see how they are set up....
Where would I post it?? I should actually do the same for the Monster Pac-Presses as well since they too are modular assemblies... I supposed the collapsable inline crossbow press is its own little beast too for that matter...
So where would something like that be posted where it wouldnt get snatched out of existance by the care takers deemed as advertising since they are completed. pieces..?? A little reluctant now to post anything but bits and pieces...
Lol... I even saw an additional (to the $200) optional fee of $500 to post a video....
May have to resort to just posting rough sketches from now on to avoid any conflicts...lol


----------



## Newk

Just finished this build and it works awesome, ordered more fingers for another.


----------



## Itneedsmorearrows

Newk said:


> Just finished this build and it works awesome, ordered more fingers for another.


Where do you order the fingers?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Newk

Itneedsmorearrows said:


> Where do you order the fingers?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


92safari message him and he will take care of you.


----------



## 92safari

Here's your tracker USPS priority mail...


----------



## 92safari

Sorry... Don't know why that posted here... Stupid new format...lol
Anyway... Fyi: steel has doubled, and parts have tripled; so once I burn through about a dozen more presses; prices may be affected significantly...
I bought ahead a little bit so not changing anything until these are gone... Then dunno...lol
I'm not getting all the notifications so email works best [email protected]
Good luck on your builds...


----------



## Gene1

I was wondering if its advisable to converted this press so I can rotate it vertical. 
Kinda of worry on just using 1 swivel point to the press, but I guess if it’s placed pretty much center is balanced to rotate the press vertical.
What size bolt or shaft would be a good choice to use to rotate this heavy press?

But the pic shows 2 swivel points seems like lots more torque on that 2nd axles. Is that press that much lighter?


----------



## leoncrandall74

Gene1 said:


> I was wondering if its advisable to converted this press so I can rotate it vertical.
> Kinda of worry on just using 1 swivel point to the press, but I guess if it’s placed pretty much center is balanced to rotate the press vertical.
> What size bolt or shaft would be a good choice to use to rotate this heavy press?
> 
> But the pic shows 2 swivel points seems like lots more torque on that 2nd axles. Is that press that much lighter?
> 
> View attachment 7430657


I made a similar mount for my press... only mine was a couple hundred dollars cheaper than the lca and a lot stronger. A couple 7/8" grade8 bolts and nuts paired with a piece of 1" tube. It can switch from bench mount (with 3 axis adjustments) to wall mount or truck reciever mount, in about 30 seconds. I don't think I have over $10 in the whole pivot assembly.


----------



## Gene1

Thanks, I found your thread on your build. 
I just realized my press is heavy because of all the attachments which can be removed.
I guess I can modifying my press by just adding the pivot and making a new stand instead of just building a bow vise. Holding the tip of the limbs seems to have the bow more stable than just clamping on the bottom of the limbs for a bow vise.


----------



## leoncrandall74

Honestly I dont even use my vise. Its another home brew that works great, but I can level the bow in my press faster and easier. Plus as you noted , it's much more stable in the press.


----------



## 92safari

Cissell said:


> What it the current price shipped?


Right now steel has doubled and laser and machined parts nearly tripled so I'm just doing completed presses with the stock I have left until costs come back down... You can shoot me an email if looking for something pre-built...
[email protected]
Only enough stock for about another dozen or so...

Sent from my LM-Q720 using http://bit.ly/Archery_Talk_app


----------



## 92safari

Boy if steel doesn't come down soon I'm not going to be able replace the machined finger assemblies once they're gone...
Something's gonna have to give...lol

Sent from my LM-Q720 using http://bit.ly/Archery_Talk_app


----------



## ut1031

Do you sell just the finger assemblies?


----------



## 92safari

I did, but now the cost is rediculous to replace them... I mean like impossible rediculous...lol I have a few sets for presses, but no way I can restock any at the current costs...


----------



## Rockwell

92safari you are a man with skills and the know how to use the tools!


----------



## 92safari

They are expensive, but I've got 4 sets of fingers, mounts, and hardware... 

Sent from my LM-Q720 using http://bit.ly/Archery_Talk_app


----------



## MeArrow

92safari said:


> They are expensive, but I've got 4 sets of fingers, mounts, and hardware...
> 
> Sent from my LM-Q720 using http://bit.ly/Archery_Talk_app


Hey Safari - thanks for all the years of hard work you've put into this. I bought a complete in-line modular kit from you last year and it was exactly what you said it was and exactly what I needed. Basically I can press any bow or crossbow and I do have quite a few of both. 

For years I struggled to get my bow squeezing done by running around to use whatever press I could find at bow shops, clubs and friends. Now that I have my own press, maintenance and tweaking of bows is so much easier to do. Makes me wish I hadn't waited all these years to get my own.

I'll be sure to post some pictures of my setup soon. 

Thanks again! 
-MeArrow


----------



## 92safari

Awesome... Anxious to see it... 

Sent from my LM-Q720 using http://bit.ly/Archery_Talk_app


----------



## tirving

MeArrow said:


> Hey Safari - thanks for all the years of hard work you've put into this. I bought a complete in-line modular kit from you last year and it was exactly what you said it was and exactly what I needed. Basically I can press any bow or crossbow and I do have quite a few of both.
> 
> For years I struggled to get my bow squeezing done by running around to use whatever press I could find at bow shops, clubs and friends. Now that I have my own press, maintenance and tweaking of bows is so much easier to do. Makes me wish I hadn't waited all these years to get my own.
> 
> I'll be sure to post some pictures of my setup soon.
> 
> Thanks again!
> -MeArrow


Agreed. I tell every archer I can that this press is easily the best, most adaptable for the money.


----------



## 92safari

These 4 sets will be sent mounted to 1 3/4" sleeves, painted, and dipped (4 coats). Slide on ready to go.

Sent from my LM-Q720 using http://bit.ly/Archery_Talk_app


----------



## 92safari

92safari said:


> These 4 sets will be sent mounted to 1 3/4" sleeves, painted, and dipped (4 coats). Slide on ready to go.
> 
> Sent from my LM-Q720 using http://bit.ly/Archery_Talk_app


----------



## ut1031

Might have missed it, but how much for a set?


----------



## 92safari

Shoot me a pm with any parts questions., and happy to help when I can.


----------



## bill_collector

PM sent 92


----------



## supranaturalf1

I just received a completed press from 92Safari, looks awesome. I ended up buying the complete press as I’m time constrained (job, 2 kids, many activities etc) but I’m going to be building tower and caution bar because I do like to build things. Looking forward to being able to do all the work on my own bow instead of depending on the shop (and a 2 hour drive).

Kudos and much appreciation for 92Safari for this.


----------



## MeArrow

92Safari press all day. Hands down the most versatile press out there. I had a lot of fun building mine. If you like tinkering and fabricating you will too.


----------



## supranaturalf1

The press is awesome. To give some background, I started archery 1-1/2 years ago when my (then) 10 year old son said to me, “Dad let’s start hunting.” I bought a bow for him and myself thinking we’ll buy some arrows, targets and start getting ready for hunting. 18 months later I’m in way deeper than I thought and 92Safari’s press is a big step in that journey…no more jury rigging a bow vise. I had to adjust my son’s peep (he’s growing and his draw length and draw weight keep going up and he’s been hunching his neck to see his peep despite the numerous changes I make to the peep height) and this time I didn’t have to struggle with moving it against full bow string tension or a jury rigged bow vise. Put it into the inline press, relax the bow string just a smidgen, move the peep, tie it in with a serving and done.

The only thing I had to do that was jury rigged was tying in the serving - I had to use a double end wrench to “draw” the string high enough to run the serving tool around without hitting the cables (this happens on my bow too). So last night I had a brainstorm to put together an adjustable tool that I can use off the riser and pull back the bowstring and allow a serving tool to get in there. Going to build one along with the vertical draw tower, pics to come in a few weeks (unless someone has a better idea they are already using, then please let me know what that method/tool is).


----------



## 92safari

Glad you fellas are getting good use from your presses... It's always fun seeing project pics... 
Have fun and take a kid with ya...


----------



## supranaturalf1

Hi Bill, I'm putting together an order for the steel tubing for the vertical draw tower, can't seem to find dimensions in the build thread. I assume 1-1/4 tubing for the upright tower, but how long is the main piece? And the hangar that is at the top for the hoist, hope long is that?


----------



## 92safari

You'll need 1 1/4" sq. Tube, 1" sq., and a little 1 3/4" sq.
The inner upright (1") I make 42", and top piece for hoist is 8". The outer tube is 1 1/4" at 26 1/2", top is 4", and a 4" piece for slider. Then 2 pc. Of 1 3/4" sq. For bow grip at 5" ea. Then a 5/8" bolt, 2 nuts, and a hose sleeve.
Can't remember if you got a caution bar or not. If not you'll need to make the down tube for the tower to slide into which is another 13 1/4" of 1 1/4" tube and 4 more inches of 1 3/4" tube.


----------



## supranaturalf1

Great thanks Bill. I'll be making a caution bar as well, I have the list of pieces for that.


----------



## dougkaufman63

Thanks for all the great info!! I'm excited to get my press started soon!!


----------



## MeArrow

Here's one picture of my 92Safari inline press. When I get around to cleaning off the work bench I'll post some better pictures. Thanks Bill!!









Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk


----------



## 92safari

Not sure if I posted the compact crossbow versions that I build..
If I can find out how to post pics now...im not seeing the option... Hate this new format...lol

Sent from my LM-Q720 using http://bit.ly/Archery_Talk_app


----------



## 92safari

So I'm guessing you can't upload from a phone anymore?
Yeah... Quite an improvement... (NOT)

Sent from my LM-Q720 using http://bit.ly/Archery_Talk_app


----------



## Unk Bond

92safari said:


> So I'm guessing you can't upload from a phone anymore?
> Yeah... Quite an improvement... (NOT)
> 
> Sent from my LM-Q720 using http://bit.ly/Archery_Talk_app


Hello old friend
Email them maybe to a friend And let save them and up load them here Just a thought 
Would you have that picture in another older thread [ Later


----------



## Gene1

Press the paper clip (arrow) and this pops up ( red circle).
Not sure about Talk app


----------



## 92safari

Here is the cro





























ssbow version for guys with new narrow, reversed, heavy, solid, split, whatever crossbows...


----------



## 92safari

Still have one of the compacts and a full size if anyone wanted to save themselves the trouble...
Just shoot me a pm...

Sent from my LM-Q720 using http://bit.ly/Archery_Talk_app


----------



## gatorguy4287

@92safari - I'm interested in a set of fingers, but it will not let me PM you because I am a new user? Can you PM me? Thanks


----------



## 92safari

gatorguy4287 said:


> @92safari - I'm interested in a set of fingers, but it will not let me PM you because I am a new user? Can you PM me? Thanks


I've been waiting to see if steel comes down enough that I can try to afford a new order...lol I've been using everything on hand to build presses, and I use the same finger assemblies on the folding crossbow presses which are getting popular with all these new super xbow shooters...lol I think I'm getting down to less than a couple more dozen sets... Gonna have to use those up to swing some sort of deal on more... I'll post here once I get that figured out...


----------



## PhilSch

First of all thank you for investing so much of your time in posting these instructions. I'm sure many have been able to benefit from you help. I have been using a BowMaster press for several years and I have changed limbs on several bows using it (in conjunction with a heavy duty ratchet strap) but for convivence sake I am ready for a real bow press. 

In Post # 2 you show 52.75" of 1 1/2" square tubing is needed but in Post #5 you say 66" is needed. I can buy a ten foot piece for $43 or a 5' section for half that. Can I get buy with 60" of the 1.5" material?

Secondly how will you charge for the laser cut fingers when available?

Thanks again!!


----------



## 92safari

Off my head I think I use 33" for outer tube, 9" for tail, 7 1/2" for each arm, 10" for each outer leg, 2 x 5" pcs. For sliding "T" used with the caution bar, 4 x 2 1/2" for caution bar sliding pins, and a 9" piece for draw/shooter tail piece... And if you wanted to another 7 1/2" arm for bench mounted draw board. I use an 8" piece of 11g 1 1/2" for the folding legs.
I think thats it for 1 1/2"... You can always use extra for new mounts, swivel, stand, hitch mount etc. 1 3/4" sleeve material is handy to have too in 14g.
I'm still trying to find a reasonable source for another order of fingers. Less than a couple dozen sets of those left...lol building a lot of the Monster Pac-Presses lately, and the compact crossbow guys are finding out about the x-bow press going down to a 0" aya...lol


----------



## PhilSch

So do you have fingers available now? How much do you want for them? 

Thanks!


----------



## PhilSch

Since you won't answer my question about selling the fingers I am about ready to pull the trigger on a easy green press. Do you have any slimline presses for sale?


----------



## 92safari

PhilSch said:


> Since you won't answer my question about selling the fingers I am about ready to pull the trigger on a easy green press. Do you have any slimline presses for sale?


Thought I did answer it above. I've got to use up the few sets left on presses to put together enough cash to place and pay for another order of fingers and mounts... Just 100 sets is 400 fingers and 400 mounts plus all the hardware to complete. It's pretty salty with payment expected up front (there's no capital credit line for it). These are not, and never have been Cheesey Greens... Actually these are the exact reason for the greens existence... These are heavier steel, 5 times the parts, far better parts, and larger and heavier to ship. I've always kept the pricing the same for years up to now even though these press bows and crossbows (yes even new super x-bows), and versatility unmatched for well over a decade. Now there's just no way as all material, hardware and shipping have increased now exponentially. I do have complete units, and optional add ons starting at 525, and a complete package deal with add ons 850...fees, shipping, and all included.
I'll get back to kits once costs can be handled without a second mortgage.


----------



## PhilSch

I'm sorry but you said you had a couple of sets left so I did not know if that meant they were already spoken for or not. So I have a couple of questions which can help me decide if I want to wait to build one or order the EzGreen. 1. Approx how long will it take for the fingers to be available for sale? 2. How much will they cost?

Thank you!


----------



## 92safari

If that's the pressing question; Their press, or one of my parts; by all means give LCA your $$... I'm not competing for the "cheapest" version of a press with minimal capabilities... There's enough of those...


----------



## PhilSch

You still didn't answer my questions so I can only deduce you don't know. EZ Gree is not my first choice but I do not wish to wait.


----------



## supranaturalf1

PhilSch said:


> You still didn't answer my questions so I can only deduce you don't know. EZ Gree is not my first choice but I do not wish to wait.


Unless I’m mistaken 92Safari indicated to PM him about the remaining presses. If you haven’t already that’s what I’d recommend for you to do.


----------



## 92safari

Sales talk is highly frowned upon in this section. I highly doubt spare CNC'd parts will be available before the end of summer. That why what I have needs to go to completing presses for highest return I can get towards new parts.
(Oh... And I do have Monster Pac's, compact x-bow, and modular in lines ready)


----------



## PhilSch

Thanks for the clarification; I will send you a pm.


----------



## 92safari

I'll go ahead and get rid of 3 extra sets I have this week so a couple of you finish your builds. You know it's a limited supply so hit me up now if you want some... Taking a chance running out prematurely...


----------



## PhilSch

Well I'm not very patient so I already ordered the easy green press. I wish you had offered them up earlier but it is what it is.


----------



## 92safari

PhilSch said:


> Well I'm not very patient so I already ordered the easy green press. I wish you had offered them up earlier but it is what it is.


Sorry... I offered up a press, answered all your questions; then ghost mode... 
Told you I'm not competing with a Cheesey Green. That was created to compete with this specifically... Enjoy whatever you have, and be safe...


----------



## Kbslow

nice press build


----------



## 92safari

anyone else looking to start, and need the assemblies; hit me up real quick.


----------



## CagedKennels

Following


----------



## Gene1

Bump for a good guy. He’s very helpful and answered any question you have. Got his finger kit a year ago and love this press.


----------



## 92safari

Sorry guys... all hospitalled up with heart trouble and surprise widespread cancer diagnosis this weekend; so won't be building for awhile. Moderators deleted my classifieds again...
Sorry...


----------



## Gene1

92safari said:


> Sorry guys... all hospitalled up with heart trouble and surprise widespread cancer diagnosis this weekend; so won't be building for awhile. Moderators deleted my classifieds again...
> Sorry...


Sorry to hear that. Hope you have a speedy recovery!


----------



## Rockwell

92safari said:


> Sorry guys... all hospitalled up with heart trouble and surprise widespread cancer diagnosis this weekend; so won't be building for awhile. Moderators deleted my classifieds again...
> Sorry...


Oh man that is tough news, wish you the best hope you can stay in front it and the wife and I will say a pray for you sir! Hang in there the best you can.


----------



## Mizzo81

Saying a prayer for you and your family.


----------



## 92safari

Well I'm starting to walk again, and the bills are piled up; so I'm gonna give it a go building one of each this week (compact crossbow, and a full size bow and crossbow), and see how it goes if anyone's interested in them just shoot me a message.

After 5 months of chemo, and heart crap; the tumors have shrunk by half... That's pretty exceptional for terminal small cell in several organs; so I'll be thankful for what the Lord gives me...lol


----------

