# tunning guru needed



## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

could be cam sync or orientation, not sure on that bow what is suggested. Before delving into that, try a 75/95 shaft and see if you may be underspined.


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## pure havoc (Apr 21, 2003)

most of the time a high or low tear is a nock point/ rest placement problem.
your left and right tears are a spine problem . got a pic of your bow looking directly at the berger hole with nock or loop pictured also . As stated above if you twisting up your cables a bunch and dont need to, now your changing your ata and BH and possibly throwing the timing off .


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

I'd guess when it was set square the nock end was bouncing off the rest showing a high tear. You moved the nock up, eilimination the bounce.


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## edthearcher (Nov 2, 2002)

*post*



fat kid said:


> ok while paper tuning started at square with bow square. first tear was high so lowered nocking point got worse, anyway after several shots to get bullets nock point is very high a little over 3/8''. this is backwards to what i see in tunning guides so anyway i bare shafted to eleminate fletching contact and tears show still alittl high not bad but sights wont go low enough to set twenty yard pin. someone told me to twist cable this seemed to help alittle but cable now has alot of twist in it.
> 
> bear archery lights out
> 65# 31" drw
> ...


put every thing back to where you started put a 100 grain point in your arrow


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## fat kid (Sep 17, 2009)

ok ive untwisted the cable back to factory. ill try to post pics in little bit thanks


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## fat kid (Sep 17, 2009)

hope this helps sorry for pic quality had to use phone.


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## fat kid (Sep 17, 2009)

ttt


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## fat kid (Sep 17, 2009)

edthearcher said:


> put every thing back to where you started put a 100 grain point in your arrow


85, 100, 125 grain makes no diff same tear. fletch high two inches side to side great.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Any chance you can get your paws on a 340 or 300 spine arrow? If so, and it did the same, it's a cam orientation issue. Try something substantially stiffer first. Your 55/75s are a 400 spine @ 28 arrow. You could also back off the pounds equally top and bottom and see what that does.


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## pure havoc (Apr 21, 2003)

fat kid said:


> hope this helps sorry for pic quality had to use phone.


Bear claims they have parallel travel on that bow so just looking at the cable rod your way way off . looks to be about 3/4" or more nock high .Set it up so the arrow is level through both berger holes and see how it shoots . lemme know. also get me a pic of the cam with the bow let down and once with it back , close pics would be best if you can get someone to help you and better quality would be great but use what ya got 
PH


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## edthearcher (Nov 2, 2002)

*post*

to me looks like the arrow is going down hill


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## jandjarchery (Mar 15, 2009)

Whats your tiller measurments?


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## fat kid (Sep 17, 2009)

just for update I took bow to shop and had a tech go over it he got same result i did 
went to a 7595 gold tip and a qad ultra rest. 
this seemed to help alittle but still nock about 7/16 high. 

bow shoots great but im alittle obsessive/compulsive about my bows shooting at top performance they are capable of.

tech says just shoot it its fine but im still wondering about cam oreintation how do i check it (where should it be?) how do i fix it.

tiller is perfect

bear archery lights out
65# 31" drw 
d-loop
qad ultra rest
goldtip expidition hunter 7595 29''
85 grain point
2'' vanetec vains


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## BowtechIAN (Apr 16, 2007)

Need a friend to kinda help to watch the cams rotate in sync through the whole draw cycle. It seems that the top cam is advanced. I have a friend that does it on purpose to get a little more speed. I bought a bow off him and it looked like that. I put the cam back where it started because it just didn't seem right.


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## jandjarchery (Mar 15, 2009)

if you have a nock high problem and your tiller is perfect your cam is under rotated. You need to advance your cam and go over your center shot settings again.


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## fat kid (Sep 17, 2009)

BowtechIAN said:


> Need a friend to kinda help to watch the cams rotate in sync through the whole draw cycle. It seems that the top cam is advanced. I have a friend that does it on purpose to get a little more speed. I bought a bow off him and it looked like that. I put the cam back where it started because it just didn't seem right.


its solocam bow


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## konrad (Mar 29, 2009)

No Guru here but...

I have the same cam on my Truth. 
If the axle-to-axle is correct, and the brace height (fistmele) is correct and the tiller is equally set (measured from the limb pocket to a string stretched between the axles) then the basic bow is correct (and the cam will be in the correct position). Winner’s Choice does NOT like excessive, additional twisting or un-twisting of the string.

Easton Technical says you should be shooting a shaft with .340 static measurements. The Gold Tip charts show the 5575 is on the borderline for your arrow length and draw weight (the E-cam is a high energy cam).

I was reading about your Hostage and suspect a capture brush adjustment may also be in order (possibly too tight or loose???). There may also be vane contact with the rest and/or brushes? Paint the rim of the rest with lip stick and see if any gets knocked off.



Either way, a nocking point 3/16’s or even a little more may not be unusual if it casts the shaft straightly.
The mechanics of my Whammy have the shaft clearly above the Berger button hole with the nock 1/8 high.

It may also be a quick and dirty test to move back another ten yards and see if the tear is then low. If so, you have definitive proof of weak spine (oscillating up and down).

It is easier to tune a stiffer shaft than a weakly spined one.


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## fat kid (Sep 17, 2009)

konrad said:


> No Guru here but...
> 
> I have the same cam on my Truth.
> If the axle-to-axle is correct, and the brace height (fistmele) is correct and the tiller is equally set (measured from the limb pocket to a string stretched between the axles) then the basic bow is correct (and the cam will be in the correct position). Winner’s Choice does NOT like excessive, additional twisting or un-twisting of the string.
> ...


thanks for input as posted earlyer i have now gone to a 7585 shaft ( 350 spine) and a QAD Ultra rest with little change now knocking point is 7/16'' high from bottom of launcher to center of arrow nock maybe this is as good as it gets???? again thanks


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## konrad (Mar 29, 2009)

The most accurate measurement is taken with a tool (arrow square) that uses the actual arrow (it lays on the rest in the “up” position when the measurement is taken) and the distance is measured from the center of the nock. This compensates for the diameter of the arrow.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390144144840

Eastman Outfitters has a nock pliers and square in a carrying bag with belt loop. You use your arrow.


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## 454casull (Jan 7, 2005)

How tight is the d-loop? too much pinch? Try tying in a nocking point with some thread. 4 knots about 6-10 below, then add the d-loop. Search the thread for tying in nocking points. Dieselin I think has a great post. May give you some relief and a little more downward pressure. You have a 30" ATA bow and a 31" draw that is some serious string angle. I have found that the WB and the Hostage rests like to be a tad on the high side to get a reasonable tear. The 75/95 is a .340 spine. Unless he has the Hostage pro the brushes are static in this rest.


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## 454casull (Jan 7, 2005)

Last thing, if you have a peep with the rubber tubing and it is too tight it can mess you up. Make sure it is long enough to turn the peep but not so tight it looks like a guitar string.


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## 1jbuck (Feb 18, 2010)

*Nock high tear*

If you put to much pressure with the bottom of your bow hand ( heeling the bow ) It will cause a nock high tear


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## fat kid (Sep 17, 2009)

i do appriciate all input but can anyone inform me on how to check and adjust cam oreintation for this bow. if cam is under rotating this needs to be fixed


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## 454casull (Jan 7, 2005)

It is a one cam bow. The ATA is 30" at max draw, not sure of the brace. Check these specs if the bow is fairly new they should be dead on or very close. If way off then something has moved/stretched.


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## konrad (Mar 29, 2009)

If the axle-to-axle is correct (measured with bow at rest), and the brace height (fistmele) is correct (from throat of grip to inside of string) and the tiller is equally set (upper and lower limbs measured from the limb pocket to a string stretched between the axles on both sides of the bow), the cam orientation will be correct. 

The only further adjustments will be rest position and nocking point...assuming your arrow is correctly spined.

[email protected]

Bear Archery will verify the above if you write them or even better, give them a call.


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