# Arrow-Smith<<<DIY



## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

Once you make the deck, saw handle and bearings it goes together pretty fast. I spent most of my time designing on the fly. 
The Deck is 41" wide x 7 1/2" deep. The legs are 6" high with small rubber feet for stability. 
The Dremel saw handle uses an adjustable spring hinge. 
There is a down draft Vaccum to pick up dust under the saw blade. 
The long diamond shaped slot in the deck accommodateds a spine test of up to 1.250". The 880 gram weight is a lead fishing weight with two hooks screwed into it. There is a cradle which holds the weight below the deck when not in use. The bearings are spaced 28" apart. 
The arrow stopper was fabricated out of a window stop or lock. It slides to any measurable length. 
The arrow spins freely on the bearings. 
I use a coarse sharpening stone for squaring the ends. 
The dial indicator stand is magnetically fastened.


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## MADZUKI (Jan 26, 2014)

:thumbs_up:thumbs_up That's a beauty eh !!


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## .BuckHunt. (May 12, 2008)

I like!


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## straightedge (Jun 7, 2013)

Wow that is absolutely amazing.


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

Awesome! Love the name, too!:thumbs_up


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

Thanks guys. What do think of the colour? Lol. 
3 coats of clear finish over the Lyons Red. I hate painting. Eh!


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## Hunter351 (Jan 15, 2014)

Great Job there! That Is COOOOOOOL!


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

dw'struth said:


> Awesome! Love the name, too!:thumbs_up


Lol. The pun. 
I even goggled the name to make sure it wasn't some company's name. Not that it mattered.


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## ElkHntr84 (Jun 13, 2010)

Man I want one and I don't even make my own arrows. I'd like to have one incase I ever decided to though.


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## bpax28 (May 28, 2012)

Holy crap, that's awesome! And I thought *my* saw was intricate! Nice job!


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## justinhonkytonk (Apr 29, 2013)

Nice job.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Very nice work!


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

A few more pics and some detail.








Vaccum down draft. 









Saw handle.









Arrow Stop

















Weight cradle in rest position. 









Arrow-Smith in my shop. 









Arrow cradle. It swivels and self-aligns. 









Arrow squaring. This has to be in perfect position. Aligned with a angle bracket then stone is held with left hand while the right hand spins the arrow.


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## tote (Mar 29, 2013)

Great job.


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

looks great! guessing you will get some PMs about building units for sale.


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

oldschoolcj5 said:


> looks great! guessing you will get some PMs about building units for sale.


Thanks for the comments guys. 
I built the Arrow-Smith with things laying around the shop except the dial indicator. It was on sale at Princess Auto for $9.99. A set of bearings(8) for $12. Adjustable spring hinge-$8.00. So for me the build was about $30.00. 

I would guess, if I had to buy all the parts, it would cost less than $75.00. Not including the Dremel Tool. 

But wait until you see Arrow-Smith-II. There's always room for improvement. Some of my thought for a second build;
-Small fixed motor with switch.
-Small variable spinner motor.
-LED sensors
-Improved Squaring holder.
-Small Cabinet Drawers for arrow components.
-improved Rail Guide.
-better Spine Tester assembly. (Concealed within the Cabinet)
-Camo. 
-Arrow chart holder.
-Fletching jig mount.
-Arrow holder/sorter. 

If I can keep all that within the same cabinet size, should work pretty good?


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

That's top notch quality build right there!

Your shop is way too clean though... :boink:


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

b0w_bender said:


> That's top notch quality build right there!
> 
> Your shop is way too clean though... :boink:


Hey bow_bender thanks!

Have to give you credit for some of the ideas. 

My shop too clean? Really?









I just push things around to clean.


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## RedbeardHD90 (Mar 3, 2013)

Very nice. Now you have me thinking.


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## Rex D (Mar 23, 2013)

You should patent that before someone else sees it and does..

I like it!


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## orarcher (Jun 3, 2006)

ditto ^^^ Very nice system !!!!


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## brenth (Sep 11, 2011)

Good job...


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## sota (Aug 2, 2013)

Plans to make a run across the border to "acquire" the arrowsmith. Now how to do so without creating an international incident

Hmmm... act Canadian? How's one act Canadian eh?


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

sota said:


> Plans to make a run across the border to "acquire" the arrowsmith. Now how to do so without creating an international incident
> 
> Hmmm... act Canadian? How's one act Canadian eh?


Say your sorry a lot while holding the blade of your hockey stick just below their chin. That's what I do right before I jersey them.


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## sota (Aug 2, 2013)

MJ should i act like Doug and Bob McKiensie?" Second City". I can get a dog and call it hosehead.


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

No. Bob and Doug are my neighbors. And name your dog MooseHead...like the beer.


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## sota (Aug 2, 2013)

MJ can i name the mutt moose drool? Like the beer.
http://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/751/2296/
For those that thought"hoped" i was kidding


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## sota (Aug 2, 2013)

All kidding around aside. I saw that the legs are mitered. Can this be done without miter cutting? Say with L brackets? Use adjustable feet for tabletops that may not be flat? 
What is the cut out in the middle of it used for? What is what looks like a weight used for?

Sorry i shoulda started off by warning y'all i'm a newbie to archery.


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## 3D JOE (Aug 28, 2012)

tagged! this thing is awesome


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

sota said:


> I saw that the legs are mitered. Can this be done without miter cutting? Say with L brackets? Use adjustable feet for tabletops that may not be flat?
> What is the cut out in the middle of it used for? What is what looks like a weight used.


For the cabinet I used window stool material(pre-primed). Because of the "L" shape of the profile, a miter joint was necessary. However a straight piece of 1"x8" (3/4"x7 1/4") could be used for the deck and legs. A simple butt joint could be fastened with screws and glue to attach the legs. The miter joint on the cabinet shown is fastened with biscuit joints and brad nails. Once the bracing is added (stiles front and back) the cabinet box become very strong and ensures the deck remains true (flat). It's simply an open box 41"x8"x6" with the bottom used as the work surface. 

The cutout in the deck serves two purposes. To allow for arrow deflection and clearance. And access for the hooks attached to the weight. 

The cutout is offset from center and aligned with the bearings. A 1 3/4" hole drilled centered between the bearings (14" or center of 28"). Then two 1/2" holes drilled 5 1/4" from each bearing along the center line. This creates an elongated diamond shape. Draw intersecting lines to the edge of the 3 holes and cut out the material with a jigsaw. A 45* router bit was used to cut a small chamfer around the opening to soften the edge. 









Window stool material. 









Weight opening centered at 14".


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

The thing I liked about this project is that the entire Arrow-Smith can be built with some basic shop tools. Without a 12" compound saw the miter cut would be difficult. But(t) straight cuts could be made with a skillsaw. A jigsaw, drill, hacksaw, tap-n-die set, tape measure and paint brush could get the job done. No "metal fabricator" envy here. I'd like to see them make this out of metal. Boom! (I'm jealous of the inline-bow-press project. If I had a welder and a metal bandsaw I might be able to create a Bow-Smith/Arrow-Smith super-all-in-one-combo.)
My son, who is also a carpenter, helped me out on some assembly, finishing and a few ideas. This would be a great father-son project for any of you guys. 

My on going project is for multiple fiber optics pin sights. To make a device small enough to turn off/on fiber optic pins using a fiber optics switching module. A dial switch would only turn on one pin at a time. Rather than all the pins being illuminated at once.


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## Stab 'em (Dec 26, 2008)

Very cool setup. Thanks for the write-up.


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## brenth (Sep 11, 2011)

MJForce, good job on your build. My first spine tester, spinner was a similar build to yours. It worked great, but I only have a small out building to work in and Im very limited to space. That's when I decided to incorporate it into building something to work off of my press and not take up as much room. I have a thread posted on here with pictures of what I made, it was actually easier to make it than making my first tester and I don't even have metal working tools. If you had an inline press Im sure you could make one easily as good of a job that you done on yours.


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## haldermand (Jul 6, 2012)

Heck yeah!!


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## sota (Aug 2, 2013)

MJ,
I'm a klepto and going to steal your idea here. I'm thinking of using 1x8x8 oak or poplar and clear coat it. My thought is the 1x8 for the top and legs and a 1x2x8 for the front and back under the top. I'm thinking L brackets for the assembly. Adjustable feet on the legs for the table tops that might not be very level.


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

sota said:


> I'm thinking L brackets for the assembly. Adjustable feet on the legs for the table tops that might not be very level.


The L brackets are not necessary if you use a rail front and back. This method will keep the cabinet from racking and ensure that the deck stays flat/straight. It may wobble if you use L brackets. Use glue and screws to fasten your wood components. Predrill and counter-sink your screw holes. Fill the holes with wood filler or dowel plugs if you plan to do a natural finish. 
Also, if your cuts are square for the legs, you won't need adjustable feet. Small rubber feet is best. They will absorb vibration from the motor and prevent the cabinet from sliding around. Mine does not rock or slide. If it did rock, I would add a small washer or spacer to the short foot. 

The overall dimensions of the cabinet is quite steady. Anything taller or narrower may cause some instability. 

Rubber feet and vaccum system. 








Cradle for the weight.


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## 3D JOE (Aug 28, 2012)

quick question... on a homemade saw how do you know everything is square to make a straight cut? or does rotating the arrow a complete turn after it is cut on the saw (while its still running of course) square everything up?


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

3D JOE said:


> ... does rotating the arrow a complete turn after it is cut on the saw (while its still running of course) square everything up?


Yes. Sortof? With the arrow lightly pressing against the adjustable stop, lower the blade, onto the shaft, so it just cuts through a portion of the outer diameter. Then slowly rotate the arrow. A little rub on an arrow squaring thingy and it's done. Do not cut right through the shaft without turning. 
The end will be quite true if done properly... if not perfect.


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## JHENS87 (Nov 7, 2009)

Very impressive to say the least. I need the skills to put something like that together


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

Well 3D JOE got me thinking. 
The blade cuts through a carbon shaft like butter. One little slip and the blade would plunge straight through. Not what you want in order to keep the cut as square as possible.

I'll install an adjustment bolt on the handle which will press against the deck to the desired depth. Different sized shafts could be precisely dialed in. 
In the spirit of 3D JOE's inspirational question...I'll call it; "Adjusting Your Mo-JOE". 

And 'sota' has inspired me to get a better security system for my home. 😉👀


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## sota (Aug 2, 2013)

WOO HOO. I'm an inspiration. :teeth:


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## 3D JOE (Aug 28, 2012)

> Well 3D JOE got me thinking.
> The blade cuts through a carbon shaft like butter. One little slip and the blade would plunge straight through. Not what you want in order to keep the cut as square as possible.
> 
> I'll install an adjustment bolt on the handle which will press against the deck to the desired depth. Different sized shafts could be precisely dialed in.
> In the spirit of 3D JOE's inspirational question...I'll call it; "Adjusting Your Mo-JOE".


Thats sounds like a fantastic name for it!!  i hope to be building one of these soon!!


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## 3D JOE (Aug 28, 2012)

with the correct blade would either of these work as a cheap option for a cut off saw? has anybody had any experience with these?
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-high-speed-air-cutter-47077.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-high-speed-composite-air-cut-off-tool-68832.html


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

Those are nice and compact. Wonder if the blade would work?


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## handirifle (Jun 9, 2005)

Well crap. Now you've gone and made mine go from "being functional" to "looks like crap". I guess I have to put this on my long "to do list.

About the only thing you DON'T have on there is a spinning motor for painting (cresting) your new arrows. Maybe if I do mine I can figure out how to incorporate my arrow crestor into mine. I've been needing a spine tester too. I love the "one tool does all" design, and the craftsmanship is second to none.

Noce work.


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

handirifle said:


> About the only thing you DON'T have on there is a spinning motor for painting (cresting) your new arrows. Maybe if I do mine I can figure out how to incorporate my arrow crestor into mine.
> 
> Noce work.


Hey Thanks
I mentioned early that I planned on a small motor which would drive a rubber belt looped over the arrow. Variable speed. I have some old small electric screw drivers that could be attached under the deck. Might work?


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## pragmatic_lee (Jan 19, 2008)

3D JOE said:


> with the correct blade would either of these work as a cheap option for a cut off saw? has anybody had any experience with these?
> http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-high-speed-air-cutter-47077.html
> http://www.harborfreight.com/3-high-speed-composite-air-cut-off-tool-68832.html


http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kLcVyAa9Zd4

I've made several improvements to the saw since recording this video, but the air cut off tool has worked great.


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## MissyJ (May 2, 2014)

Very new to this site. First day actually. I see all the carbon arrows on here. I have watched several videos on making arrows from bamboo. Any info on that?


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

MissyJ said:


> ...arrows from bamboo. Any info on that?


Traditional Archery section has some info. Use the search feature and you'll find lots.


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## KenHo (Apr 14, 2014)

Great job on that - I do have a question, for the weight to test spine of arrow. Why the two hooks on the arrow? I would have thought a single hook to put the 880 gram weight in exact center of 28" arrow span? OR - for the correct spine test, is the weight spread over a length of arrow? Is that what your statement: "spine test of up to 1.250 inch" means? That some spine tests actually spread the weight over a span of arrow rather than right in center?

Thank you for sharing - I'm thinking I just might like something like that myself.

Ken H>


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

KenHo said:


> Great job on that - I do have a question, for the weight to test spine of arrow. Why the two hooks on the arrow? I would have thought a single hook to put the 880 gram weight in exact center of 28" arrow span? OR - for the correct spine test, is the weight spread over a length of arrow? Is that what your statement: "spine test of up to 1.250 inch" means? That some spine tests actually spread the weight over a span of arrow rather than right in center?


 Good questions. 
Ideally a single hook is best at the 14" or halfway point. Because of the dial caliper, I want the measurement to be taken directly on the arrow at precisely the midway point. The hooks can be spaced just far enough apart to allow the probe clearance. (Close but not touching). If the hooks are spaced close enough there're position (1/2" apart), should have very little bearing on arrow deflection. 

I suppose a single hook with a small flat/level surface on the crown could work when using a dial caliper. 

Ideally you don't want the weight swinging around like a pendulum. Measuring directly on the arrow seems best imo. 

And...Two hooks steadies the weight faster. 15.78seconds faster. Jk.


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## KenHo (Apr 14, 2014)

You're right (of course) about the desire for dial indicator to measure exactly in the center, and if a single hook where there, couldn't do that. 

Good thinking. 15.78 seconds? I'm never that precise - I'd tend to say.... Oh, 'bout 15 to 16 seconds 

Ken H.


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

MJForce said:


> Well 3D JOE got me thinking...
> I'll install an adjustment bolt on the handle which will press against the deck to the desired depth. Different sized shafts could be precisely dialed in.
> In the spirit of 3D JOE's inspirational question...I'll call it; "Adjusting Your Mo-JOE


So I made the Arrow-Smith so you can now "Adjust-your-Mo-JOE". 

I can dial in the blade to a precise cut into the thickness of the shaft. I think this method will yield a fairly square cut. 








Shows blade depth.








Adjustable stop.


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

KenHo said:


> ....OR - for the correct spine test, is the weight spread over a length of arrow? Is that what your statement: "spine test of up to 1.250 inch" means?
> 
> Ken H>


Ah yes. "1.250 inch." 
By that I meant that the Arrow-Smith will accommodate an arrow that has up to a 1.250 spine. The shaft can literally flex past the surface of the deck( if the arrow was weak enough) because of the cutout. I suppose I could just raise the bearings but I needed a hole for the weight hooks to pass through anyways. I think it also allows for an overall lower profile (about 1" lower).


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## 3D JOE (Aug 28, 2012)

> So I made the Arrow-Smith so you can now "Adjust-your-Mo-JOE".


looks good!!!


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## Hogwort (Aug 1, 2005)

*Arrow smith*

OK that's just plain impressive.
Hogwort.


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## redyak3 (Nov 5, 2011)

Great Job!!!


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

Thanks
Working on Arrow-Smith-2. 
Measuring track will be better. 
Cutoff saw will be better. 
Spine tester...better. 
Arrow squaring...easier. 
Component storage. 
Cresting of arrows. 
RAM tester. 
Fletching jig holder. 

Seems like a lot, but for those who need an All-in-One it should work well. Just keep it next to the bow press. Painting is the worst part, but it looks pretty good painted. Good little weekend project once you get all the parts together.


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## Hunt Fish Hunt (Feb 9, 2009)

Hat’s off to too you, that’s brilliant!


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

Should be able to keep the new price well below $200. Not bad for an All-in-One. 
There's so much testing on an arrow...but it's part of your gear. Just depends on how far you want to go?


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## Piscatory_1 (Aug 20, 2011)

You can use a rottisery motor for turning the arrow. Did that for making fishing rods back in the day. Would need to figure out the variable speed requirement.


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

Piscatory_1 said:


> You can use a rottisery motor for turning the arrow. Did that for making fishing rods back in the day. Would need to figure out the variable speed requirement.


Ah! Or something like that.


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## bbjavelina (Jan 30, 2005)

Piscatory_1 said:


> You can use a rottisery motor for turning the arrow. Did that for making fishing rods back in the day. Would need to figure out the variable speed requirement.


That would be much more elegant than the electric can opener that I used.


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## SwampBottom (Apr 15, 2012)

Where did you get your hanging weight or how did you make it?


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

SwampBottom said:


> Where did you get your hanging weight or how did you make it?


I used a 2lb fishing weight. Cost about $2. 
1.94lbs or 880 grams is the correct weight for checking spine at 28". 
Once I installed the two hooks into the lead, I drilled out excessive lead until the total weight was 880grams or 1.94lbs. 
Two hooks or attachment points are necessary for the dial caliper probe to fit nicely between and centered on the arrow.


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

Btw. 
I scrapped the red Arrow Smith and have built a new one. 
Arrow Smith 2 looks similar but has better parts, storage and a few more bells and whistles. It looks and functions better.


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

Piscatory_1 said:


> You can use a rottisery motor for turning the arrow. Did that for making fishing rods back in the day. Would need to figure out the variable speed requirement.


This got me thinking too. 
A sewing machine motor can be controlled for slower speeds. I would like to find a way to correctly attach a motor to the cabinet. 
I thought of attaching the motor to a roller-blade wheel which could then be dropped down onto the arrow. For arrow cresting or shaping this variable speed could be ideal. 50rpm - and up. 

I've watched a few videos on arrow cresting. The over-spray from a spray can of paint would have to be controlled. A vacuum system may work. But I wouldn't want excessive paint on the cabinet. Or on the bearings. 

I've also built a FLO (Flat Line Oscillator) which indexes arrows based on their weak or stif side. Have to give credit to a member here on AT for that idea.

It uses the similar principles as the testing of golf clubs. Easy to use but difficult to build. You need an arrow clamping device, a 3/8" drill chuck and a laser. I haven't attached it to the Arrow Smith yet but a bench vise seems to work well to hold the clamp device. Very simple to use and interesting results.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

MJForce said:


> Btw.
> I scrapped the red Arrow Smith and have built a new one.
> Arrow Smith 2 looks similar but has better parts, storage and a few more bells and whistles. It looks and functions better.


Pictures please!!

If it's better than the red one, it will be worth seeing!

Allen


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## onyx48166 (Feb 9, 2011)

Very nice


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## mainersmotive (Sep 14, 2013)

Tagged, awesome build.


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

Thanks. I'm still looking for a few ideas. I'll post pics but my shop is setup for a 16 team fantasy football draft right now. I'm hosting again. 
Shows that the archery stuff can be taken down and put away fairly easily. 









Be back to normal on Monday morning.


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## SwampBottom (Apr 15, 2012)

Where did you get the hanging weight or how did you make the weight?


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## SwampBottom (Apr 15, 2012)

Sorry I see your reply above now.


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## TheSniperMonkey (May 3, 2015)

Love this project! Is there any update on Arrow Smith 2 MJForce?


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## ruttnwapati (Sep 22, 2008)

That is a very nice set up.


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## MandK (Jul 29, 2013)

Tag! awesome build!


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## agf25 (Jul 29, 2015)

How about adding a motor and add a cresting machine to the list of uses?


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

Arrow Smith II. 
Almost complete. Added a few features. 

I've been MIA for a while ( lost account password and health reasons)


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

Finer adjustments allowed with new sliders.


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

Spine measurement.


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

Storage. 
Cut-off saw is easily mounted ( dremel saw works fine).


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## Joe P. (Jan 13, 2004)

Great idea, very nice work. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Really great design!!!

Are the metal parts that hold the bearings available somewhere? It's not something that most of us could fabricate.


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## MJForce (Sep 30, 2013)

aread said:


> Really great design!!!
> 
> Are the metal parts that hold the bearings available somewhere? It's not something that most of us could fabricate.


That's a good question. Yes they are fabricated by my me but with a drill, metal jig saw and a file. It takes a bit of time. This part was probably the most difficult but with some simple tools and a bit of patience they turn out pretty good. 

I will add the cut-off saw soon. Likely a sliding cordless Dremel tool.


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## ben911 (Sep 3, 2012)

Nice setup! Real dream


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