# Master Jig



## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

*Master Gig*

Master Gig--add on
I have a pic of the bow in vertical position to add.


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## easyeriq (Feb 10, 2008)

Call the press. Unk Bond posts once again. Looks good unk


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Master Gig. Drawing a bow in vertical position. Comment = Now just lay gig over. To have bow in the horizontal position. Saves a balancing act.


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## a1shooter (Mar 27, 2009)

*Pretty slick*

Looks good Unk.:thumbs_up


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## F.C.Hunter (Jul 14, 2009)

Sweet. Good work


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## bcbow1971 (Oct 24, 2007)

Nice. setup!


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All & Thanks.

Just bought some parts for the adapter bow press,to the Master Jig.

I would like to say here. This type of bow press design. Was though up by another archer here. I am sure you will recognize it. 
All i am doing, is revamping or changing it some what. To fit the Master Jig work station. Where as the Master Jig will act as a Draw board-- a String Jig --- String Stretcher and a Bow Press. And other devices, i have in mind. [ Might add. If any one, needs any measurements ask. I do plan on making a material list later. [ Later


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All
I am 99.9 % done with adapting the bow press to the Master Jig.

Yesterday was a good day . Every thing fell in place, with the exception of one 5/8" threaded hole. Well i thought i would take a short cut, since i had no duck tape with me. 

When it came time to have it welded. I left the duck tape off of my threaded holes. Now i had it welded.And two very small drops of splatter hit two threads :mg:. Now i will try to rechace them two threads. Now i know better.  Thought i would share this. So others won't have this problem.

Now any one making this Master jig. Buy the longest Barn Door tract. By buying the longer track. You can cut off a piece for your bow press. As you will see later. Also when you buy the barn door track. Buy 2 adaperters with 7/16 holes. That slide onto the track. And again, these can be use on your bow press. [ Later


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## oldglorynewbie (Oct 17, 2006)

Looks great Unk. Really well thought out. I'll look forward to the specs when you are ready to post them.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All and thanks.

Well the up right string post are now made .And mounted. Here is a pic. Also you will see other attachable parts, in the pic. One being a string stretching post. 

I am close to trying a hand cranked gear winch . Suggested by one of our AT members. If i find it is compatible for stretching a bow string. Then this hand cranked gear winch . Will replace the boat winch. I now use for the draw and timing of a draw ed bow. I will post pic's later. If it works out.


Comment= i made the Bow Press .Used it one time to compressed my Mathews Rival Pro. Now i found it to be under a lot of strain. But it did press the bow. Before i add this bow press to the Master Jig as a detachable item. I feel there is more work to be done before i would recommend it as a safe detachable item.  [ Later


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

More Pic's

Guy's, if U look close. U will notice little brass spools near the top of string post. That roll.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

t t t


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## SDLAW (Aug 28, 2006)

Hey Unk. You could easily adapt this concept to add a press to the mix: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=985099


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

SDLAW said:


> Hey Unk. You could easily adapt this concept to add a press to the mix: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=985099



Very nice. :thumbs_up
Yes it could be adapted very easy, as i see it.
Do have a question.  How long is your threaded rod and where did you buy it.


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## SDLAW (Aug 28, 2006)

Standard 1/2" all thread and a coupler nut for added thread contact. The length I used was about 18" but you could get by with 12". It doesn't need to move much to press the bow so all thread works great. It is very smooth and effortless to press 70 lb. limbs.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

SDLAW said:


> Hey Unk. You could easily adapt this concept to add a press to the mix: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=985099


------------
Hello
The Geared Winch arrived. It looks better than i expected, and stronger.

Now to your bow press. I think it looks and works great.
And thanks for your offer, to use your idea on my Master Jig.

Now i have this picture of your bow press in a upright position in my noggin  on the Master Bow press.

And i though about still leaving one end of the bow press solid like you have yours. And in the place of a althread. Use the Geared Winch to move the other end of the bow press ,by still letting it slide.

Any thoughts here. [ Later


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## SDLAW (Aug 28, 2006)

That makes good sense. Infinitely adjustable and easy build. The bars that hold the fingers would just be at a right ange to the open part of the track rather than straight out.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

SDLAW said:


> That makes good sense. Infinitely adjustable and easy build. The bars that hold the fingers would just be at a right ange to the open part of the track rather than straight out.


Yep 
Now i can visualize. 2 round pipe guides .Be it PVC or steel. One going inside the other. And the winch cable being inside of the pipe guides.Pulling the slide base portion of the bow press.

Thoughts please.


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## SDLAW (Aug 28, 2006)

I think the 4th picture down in your original post has some real potential. If you added a piece of plastic between the flat bar and the top of the channel lip and some way to pull the wheels against the bottom of the lip, you would have a great slider. You could just hook the winch cable to a loop on the flat bar since it would be out of the way of the fingers. That way you wouldn't have to fish a cable through pipe to switch from draw board to string jig to press.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All
Here is a little up date on the Master Bow press.

1. I changed the Boat winch to a Gear Driven winch. A fellow AT-er found it for me. 

Now i am trying here to give you a idea of my bow press. I just balance the box tubing arms on to the base plate. Just to get a pic. They will be welded later. 
Now also there will be a little guide plate bolted to the top of the both box tubing arms. Used as a belt guide. Where as i can reach the furriest finger arm. This finger arm will move. Where as the other finger arm .Will be stationary.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Guys i solved my wheel problem. I took 1 inch wooden dial rod. Sanded, and made plugs for the pipe legs. Drilled them first to except swivel caster wheels. .:wink:


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## jtmoney (Jan 14, 2009)

nice idea


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

jtmoney said:


> nice idea


Thanks 
Its coming along slowly. I have a welder and can build all the parts here. But these old eyes won't let me use it any more. So i am at te mercy,of jobing parts of it out. :embara: . But were getting there, and time is on my side. :wink:


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Up date . 
Still at it. Something good takes time i guess. :wink:
Hope to have 98 % of parts welded Monday 13. The 13  oh no. :wink:

 Being my first time tapping a 1/2 " 13 thread in 3/8" steel.. I suck at it.  2 times i tried. And you would have thought i was drilling a over size hole. No threads.  Thats the reason i bought this new drill press. I had it set on 180 speed.


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## JCfarms (Sep 13, 2009)

*cool*

cool very cool I need a drawing Machine and this is cool.
When U gonna post bill of materials?


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hey guys 
Here is some pic's. Sorta making a dry run here. While waiting on my Bow Press Fingers :wink:
Now U might notice here. I have come up with another type draw board. That really works so easy. At first it really had me buffaloed. How i would pull the bow. Like i did with the other draw board. 
It hit me late at night, going to bed. As i set on the side of my bed , removing my shoes. A bird-E came to me, and said. Why not.  And i said you got it why not. And i did. :wink:

--------------------------

Something i learned on my first dry run. 

1. I didn't need all that belting strap. I just needed a little on the gear winch spool. And enough to reach the end of the Master Jig. Should of cut it off sooner. Just couldn't bring my self to do it. 

Now by having less belt strap on the spool. I will now gain a more even and level pull.

Now in the pic's you will notice i left off 2 nob's. Well the reason. I need to make 2 more nuts, for the nob's i have. 

Also instead of takening small square pieces of 3/8 steel and tapping bolt threads. Now i plan, just to drill a hole and weld a nut to it. 
Oh why didn't i think of this earlier.  Some times one gets blinded, when designing something. Theres where hind sight is 20-20 :wink:

Now guys the hook up to drawing the bow. I will refine. Just had to see it work early.:tongue:


Might add also. The orange draw post can be threaded out, to remove. Or they can stay. While my bow press fingers set on top of the box tubing arm while pressing the bow.

Well this guys, is easier than turning a althread rod. [ Hun


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Here you go . Pic's with out a bow. [ Later


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Pm. Answered.
Here you go


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Looks nice Unk :wink:


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## Mrwintr (Jan 15, 2006)

*Sweet!*

Dang nice job! Now if you are capable of building such a nice jig then you MUST be able to draft up a blueprint and material list to share......Hint, Hint!!


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Mrwintr said:


> Dang nice job! Now if you are capable of building such a nice jig then you MUST be able to draft up a blueprint and material list to share......Hint, Hint!!


As soon as its completed. I will give a material list. And some Hints :wink:
Now i will also point out. If one just wants a draw board and a bow press. Then the base doesn't need to be this long. [ Later


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hey Guys ] As soon as i get my fingers mounted.

I will be ready for another devise to mount to the Master Jig. 
Looking for a good idea. Any ideas on something you would like to see mounted. :wink:


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Unk Bond said:


> Hey Guys ] As soon as i get my fingers mounted.
> 
> I will be ready for another devise to mount to the Master Jig.
> Looking for a good idea. Any ideas on something you would like to see mounted. :wink:


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?? What do you think about adding a 3rd axis holder to it.  :wink: Or a arrow cut off saw.


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## Mrwintr (Jan 15, 2006)

Unk Bond said:


> ----------
> 
> ?? What do you think about adding a 3rd axis holder to it.  :wink: Or a arrow cut off saw.


 The arrow cutoff saw is a good idea and it should be fairly easy to incorporate into that....but stick to the real deal, stationary motor and cutoff wheel, not the cheapy chop saw. I see people using those chop saws from Harbor freight and there is no way they are cutting perfectly straight and consistant with the mini chop saw.


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## cmherrmann (Jun 1, 2004)

Unk you just got too much time on your hands! But you put it to good use!


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hey Guys ]
The arrow cut off saw is next. And like he said. That won't be a big task. The arrow saw i mount. Will have a floor foot pedal ,power switch. Lets one have his hands free. To control the arrow. While using the cut off saw.


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## Mrwintr (Jan 15, 2006)

Unk Bond said:


> Hey Guys ]
> The arrow cut off saw is next. And like he said. That won't be a big task. The arrow saw i mount. Will have a floor foot pedal ,power switch. Lets one have his hands free. To control the arrow. While using the cut off saw.


 The floor pedal switch is another good idea.
You will have a complete Bow repair shop all in one unit before you are done.:thumbs_up


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All.
Like he said .One Unit.  Just attach a piece of archery equipment with 2 nobs. And you are ready to perform your task. Still waiting on my bow press fingers.

But as of now we have the String Jig-- the --Draw-board. And now we are adding the Arrow cut off saw,with a power control foot pedal. Oh yes the 3rd axis Jig


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Here U go


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## killzone90 (Sep 14, 2009)

thats different


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

killzone90 said:


> thats different


Yep ] 

When the bow press is completed. Then we can say more different.   Sorta like the old Shop Smith. Save room and still get the job done.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

t t t-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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## madarchery (May 28, 2003)

Seems it will be tough to see full draw standing so far away. Why not mount another winch on the draw slide. Now you can stand right next to it while drawing. Use the lardge gear winch to take it 3/4 draw and then use the hand winch to fine tune? 

other wise cool creation.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

madarchery said:


> Seems it will be tough to see full draw standing so far away. Why not mount another winch on the draw slide. Now you can stand right next to it while drawing. Use the large gear winch to take it 3/4 draw and then use the hand winch to fine tune?
> 
> other wise cool creation.




-----------------------
Hello
Did you viev picture post 2 and 4.
Also the last picture the draw board. Was just spread out for a picture. If you observed a little closer it can be moved right up next to the gear winch. This pic was just to show what i was working on.

Might add here, there is also a turn buckle and a scales i have since added. Thats not shown in the pic. 
When the Master Jig is completely finished. I will post a complete picture of each attachment, and a material list. With measurements. [ Later


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All
Well today was a dry run on the Master jig bow press. :wink:


For the bow press to be tested, to press a bow. For the first time things went very smooth .The gear winch tighten right along with ease. :thumbs_up

But with any new project. One can see other improvements, to make a piece of equipment work better. The barn door track was strong enough not to bow under extreme pressure. But viewing it after the bow was pressed. The barn door track wanted to lean a little, with all the side weight. So i plan to attach the track to a board with screws, Ever 8 inches. This will give the track a wider base. And that is no biggie , consider all the other aspect of the press. That passed with flying colors.:thumbs_up


My next project will to use the Master Jig as a Hooter Shooter :wink:
Really the piece that holds the bow grip. Will be my biggest task.


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## Gene1 (Jun 24, 2009)

Very nice job. Where you order your fingers from?


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Gene1 said:


> Very nice job. Where you order your fingers from?


Hello
I bought them here on AT in the classified. They came off a Easy Press.
There are some nice ones here on at. I think about $6.00 a piece for the fingers, on AT thread. Do a search for fingers. [ Later


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## TrekJeff (Sep 27, 2009)

Now all you need to do is add a fletching and cresting jig!! NICE work!


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

TrekJeff said:


> Now all you need to do is add a fletching and cresting jig!! NICE work!


*********************


Quote = all you need to do is add a fletching and cresting jig!! NICE work![/QUOTE]


Now i have a motorized cresting jig!! and paint bushes.

??? But, what about a 2 foot round turn table .With fletching clamps :wink:


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Gene1 said:


> Very nice job. Where you order your fingers from?


Thanks
A coat of paint will , will do wonders here . :wink:


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## TrekJeff (Sep 27, 2009)

THEN...add a cutting board and meat grinder with a vacuum sealer!


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Unk Bond said:


> Hello All
> Well today was a dry run on the Master jig bow press. :wink:
> 
> 
> ...


*******************

t t t :wink:


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello all

Just think.] The Master Jig. Now has , a Bow Press---2 types of Bow Drawing board .As one might say---------Bow String Jig and Tightener------Arrow Cut Off Saw-------3rd Axis -----> Next attachment ???? XXXXXX


A, Bow Press, ---2 types of Bow Drawing board . As one might say---------Bow String Jig, and Tightener-----> Cost so far. Is no where near the cost of a Bow Press. And we still have some pocket change left over. :thumbs_up :wink:


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Unk Bond said:


> Hello all
> 
> Just think.] The Master Jig. Now has , a Bow Press---2 types of Bow Drawing board .As one might say---------Bow String Jig and Tightener------Arrow Cut Off Saw-------3rd Axis -----> Next attachment ???? XXXXXX
> 
> ...


******************

What he said. :wink:


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All
About 2 1/2 hours .I had it tore down ,and back together, and pressing. Its very - very smooth now. With the barn door track , having a base.

You see the 2 red arms. They are a 1/2 inch threaded bolt covered.They are used for a draw board.

Now i plan on using that 1/2 inch threaded hole .To mount a bow holder and a bow release on. And make a shooting machine. :wink:


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Bump :wink:


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## brownback (Aug 15, 2006)

Awesome UNK:thumbs_up You continue to amaze me friend. Wish I had just a snitch of your creativity and craftmanship.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

brownback said:


> Awesome UNK:thumbs_up You continue to amaze me friend. Wish I had just a snitch of your creativity and craftmanship.


*************************

Thanks
You can now say. You have met the master tinker ,in person..ha ha

By being a construction worker. I learned from others. :wink:


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All
Now i am looking for a release. That i can use on the shooting machine.
Saw one some where here on AT. He had a althread bolt, in the end of it.
Like to know how he did it.

So if you guys have any ideas , on how to attach a bolt to a calber release .Do let me know. Can't build this by myself. Don't you know. :wink:


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## bowtech_john (Apr 19, 2008)

Unk Bond said:


> Hello All
> Now i am looking for a release. That i can use on the shooting machine.
> Saw one some where here on AT. He had a althread bolt, in the end of it.
> Like to know how he did it.
> ...


I believe most wrist releases are threaded 3/8 s.a.e. to attach to wrist strap. I picked one up on AT to convert for my H. Shooter.:thumbs_up


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

bowtech_john said:


> I believe most wrist releases are threaded 3/8 s.a.e. to attach to wrist strap. I picked one up on AT to convert for my H. Shooter.:thumbs_up


Hello and thanks.

After looking at my releases .I found a hydraulic ,caliber release, i plan to use. After removing the end piece. I found it to have 7/16 X 20 threads. [ Later


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## Lerie (Aug 23, 2002)

Great Post - Many thanks for sharing this DIY project. Post such as this is what makes AT such a great place to spend what free time I have.


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## twistedfreak (Sep 9, 2007)

do you have any part # or where a person could get the aprts for the attachments for your idea im liking it but just wondering where to get them if i wanted to adapt my string jig rail to your idea as i.e. the clamps for your attachments and the rails or those look like you made them?


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## bowtech_john (Apr 19, 2008)

Unk Bond said:


> Hello and thanks.
> 
> After looking at my releases .I found a hydraulic ,caliber release, i plan to use. After removing the end piece. I found it to have 7/16 X 20 threads. [ Later


My bad. It is 7/16.

I used a nylon ( I think ) block from the plastic store to make a mount for the release.

Don't forget a trigger for the release such as :http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Vintage-1950s...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item35a4730638
or something similar.


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## Liviu (Oct 20, 2009)

Lerie said:


> Great Post - Many thanks for sharing this DIY project. Post such as this is what makes AT such a great place to spend what free time I have.


+1:icon_salut:
Great work.


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## TrekJeff (Sep 27, 2009)

bowtech_john said:


> Don't forget a trigger for the release such as :http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Vintage-1950s...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item35a4730638
> or something similar.


GREAT idea!


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All


Place to buy parts And some measurements.
More probably will be needed .
Just feel free to ask questions. I will try to be of help if i can 




******************************************


http://www.reidsupply.com/Detail.aspx?itm=KHY-275 = Tightening Nob bolts.= $ 4.05 each --I bought 6 --8 would be good to have. Or Just buy 1/2 inch bolts 11/2 or 2 inches long no shank. Will work also.

http://bpway.com/Home/tabid/36/Default.aspx = Stick on measuring rule.. A left and a right view of measurement. = $ 11.00 each. I bought 2 a right and a left = $ 22.00 This is nice to measure your string. On the string jig.


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5798 = 2000 Lb Capacity Geared Winch.

Barn door rail track plain. No bracing attached. Comes in different lengths. Carter Lumber Used 10 feet long piece.. $26.00 

Winch Yellow Belt = Buy at Wal Marts a ratchet strap tightener. = About $ 13.00

2 Pc's of 2" X 6" X 10 feet long = Lumber Company . = about $6.00 a piece. Bought 2 = $ 12.00
------
Nuts made out of 3/8 " X 2 " stock cut to 1 1/2 inches long
8 pieces needed ---- And 8 nuts ----1/2" nuts . Drill a 1/2 inch hole in the center of all 8 pieces. 

Screw a nut on the bolt up against the bolt head. . Place the bolt in the hole and put a tack weld on .each side of the nut ,to the plate.

To speed things up here for the welder. I just bought 8 bolts and nuts. Put them together. Place them in the plate holes. My holder i used to tack the nuts . I will explain later.
--------
Gear Winch base = 1/2 inch X 2 inch X 12 1/2 inches long.
Come in from each end -- 1 1/4 inches on center, and drill a 1/2 inch bolt hole. Place a nut over each hole and tack.on each side of the nut. Using a bolt on the nut for a guide.

Locate Winch base holes on gear winch base.And drill 2-- 1/2 inch bolt holes. And tack 2 nuts over the 2 holes.Again using a bolt as a guide.
------

String Jig base = 1/2 X 2" X 12" Long. 1/2 inch hole in center of base .to lock down. 
Your choices of bolting the up right post to the string base. With a threaded base. Or weld. Or bolt and then weld.

Will add my String post size later to this topic. And other as you needed

Later .


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

The measurements you guys ask for. 

Got the parts today for the shooting machine.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All

Here is how i make the barn door track nuts. 
The nuts are tack welded to the plate, with a hole.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

t t t


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All

Well i have all the metal base parts cut out,and drilled. for the mechanical shooter.

Its off to the welding shop,tomorrow.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All
Well things went quiet well today.
Got all the base parts welded for the shooting machine. Also got all the add on attachments painted. Painted the shooting machine bases yellow.

Now all thats needed to have a complete shooting machine. Is add the bow block. And the release block.
Now the shooting machine bases can roll, and be locked off with the two nob's.. This allows one to make the bow vertical level. For shot at hand. Also the release block will roll .Allowing the release to be horizontal level.

Well all thats needed now to have a complete shooting machine. Is mount the bow block and the release block.

Won't be long now to launch time.  
Next pic's will be of the blocks mounted.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Bump] getting covered up


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Unk Bond said:


> Bump] getting covered up


What he said.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All

Ordered 8 nob's today. I am starting to see now. Having nob's and nuts, for all the attachments. It makes the adding and removing of the attachments. So much quicker and easier.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All
Up date 

The Master Jig, bow press, was called on late this evening to press a bow.

Got this call from a friend. He said he had a guy hunting on him from Virgina.And his bow blowed up. And ask if i could press the bow, for him.

Being proud of my Master Jig bow press.  I said bring it over. He said its late. I said bring it on. 

Well the truck pulled up in my drive. Both got out. And the driver had a Cross Bow, in his hand. I was lost for words. Finally i got my self ,out of my stew state of mind. And said, guys don't think we can press that, Cross Bow.

But we will give it a try. So we placed the Cross Bow upside down in the bow press fingers. And lined the limbs up in the fingers. And i began to crank on my gear winch. We would stop now and then, to make sure things were going are way. Well i cranked and compressed the bow limbs. And he re-attached the cables. Were done :thumbs_up I ask him, how many pounds was that cross bow. He said its 165 pounds. :shade:. My little bow press had preformed well under that much strain.  I was proud as a P-Cock :thumbs_up


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All
Been wondering how many pounds is needed, to press a bow. Well this bow is set at 50 pounds draw weight.

So i attached my string jig weight scale, to the Master Jig bow press.
As you can see in the picture. It took about 18 pounds, to press this Mathews Rival Pro Bow.


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## ToxArch1 (Oct 1, 2009)

*Bow Press Force*

Sorry Unk, don't mean to sound negative, because you have done an amazing job on this Master Jig, but it doesn't sound or look right. My guess is the way you have the scale set up is that the winch is pulling the bow press force plus 18lb. You need the scale in between the bow and the winch.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

ToxArch1 said:


> Sorry Unk, don't mean to sound negative, because you have done an amazing job on this Master Jig, but it doesn't sound or look right. My guess is the way you have the scale set up is that the winch is pulling the bow press force plus 18lb. You need the scale in between the bow and the winch.




---------------------------

Hello

Quote = Sorry Unk, don't mean to sound negative

Reply. = Not at all. Very good observation. And at least some one here, is following along with me here. I never take something negative. When i am building something. Gives me a chance to step back. And re-evaluate .

My scale here. Only gave a reading in pounds .For the amount of travel the press moved. The work horse load, was on the other end .Like you said. [ Thanks Again 




----------------------------
Correction test. 
? Is this better . 212 pound pull, not 18 pounds as stated earlier. To press the Mathews Rival Pro bow. 
Again thanks for the correction. 

Might have been less. If every thing had been level.


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## ToxArch1 (Oct 1, 2009)

*That's more like it !*

That's more like it Unk.:thumbs_up:smile::smile:

And yes, I have been following your thread for quite a while.


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## MOTOFAN96J (Nov 13, 2009)

This is very good. I'm just getting back into archery with my wife and am brand new to this forum. with this kind of thinking and driveway engineering I know I'm in the right place to bounce my ideas and ask uneducated questions.
Thank you for the detailed pics and explanations.
DAN :thumbs_up

How about a hitch mount for taking to the local club?


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

MOTOFAN96J said:


> This is very good. I'm just getting back into archery with my wife and am brand new to this forum. with this kind of thinking and driveway engineering I know I'm in the right place to bounce my ideas and ask uneducated questions.
> Thank you for the detailed pics and explanations.
> DAN :thumbs_up
> 
> How about a hitch mount for taking to the local club?


----------------------


Thanks
Just ask away. AT has some very fine designers and craftsmen.

Quote = How about a hitch mount 

Reply = it folds up .And will slide in a truck bed. 

Really if one didn't want a string jig that goes with this one. And say just a bow press. And a draw board. Then it could be just 6 feet long, instead of 10 feet. And then mount it to a release hitch on a truck.. :thumbs_up



My son in-law was over today. He was very impressed how easy it worked. He said i have 6 of those tracks in my barn.
Right away. The cog-gs in my head began turning. Well the base is made out of 2x6's . [ So] I said self . why not two tracks.  [ So ] now i am off and running with other ideas. :thumbs_up Lets see now what transpires from this brain storm.  Plan to make one for a release hitch, this spring. Now that i know where there is extra track. Good old son in-law.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All

Guys here are some pic' of 5 things i have added. 

1 . Extra track short piece. For more displacement, for the finger arm and base.

2.Widen the moving finger arm base. With a 2 inch piece of flat stock.

3. Apiece of Teflon type material. Used under the finger arm wide base. Easier to slide. Holds arm up straighter while it moves along.

4. A spring added . To move base back. When removing the bow from the finger.press.

5. A front block for the shooting machine. Nothing Fancie  .Just to hold the bow, while making a shot. Use just to match arrows. Now the block can move right and left for adjustment. Also the block base will roll. To attain vertically level position, for the bow position. Still crude. 

Comment guys you might notice . The yellow pulling strap. Is pulling much straighter. I remounted the gear drive winch. 

The trigger release is being worked on.


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## Liviu (Oct 20, 2009)

Unk Bond said:


> 5. A front block for the shooting machine. Nothing Fancie  .Just to hold the bow, while making a shot.


Unk,

What kind of material do you have on the block? Is it teflon?

You want it slippery enough as to not influence the shooting results, from on arrow to the next.

I read somewhere (don't remeber the web page), that some guy was having problems with shooting the same arrow in the same hole, so he used a little WD40 on the bow holder and it solved it just like that :thumb:


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Liviu said:


> Unk,
> 
> What kind of material do you have on the block? Is it teflon?
> 
> ...


Well really don't know where i am going here on the bow holder. Just feeling my way along.

I was thinking one wanted the bow stationary, in the bow grip holder.To not influence the shooting results. Maybe i am missing something here.


I had thought about using the other half of the block. To hold the bow grip ridged.  ???? Dose the bow supposed to rock. After the shot or the bow riser stand erect..


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## Liviu (Oct 20, 2009)

Unk Bond said:


> I was thinking one wanted the bow stationary, in the bow grip holder.To not influence the shooting results. Maybe i am missing something here.


Unk,
That's exactly what I was thinking when I started to do the research for my _"shooting machine"_, but then I found the above mentioned tidbit of information, and it made sense.

Also, if you look at the HS pics it shows that the design of the _"V-holder"_ was driven by this concept: _Let the bow as free as possible_.
This way, it will come exact to the same position at full draw, every time.

Anyway, I could be wrong, so maybe you should ask around here, and please let me know if it's not what I think.

Here is a pic of the Hooter Shooter parts:


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello Liviu

There is more than one way to skin a catfish. Let me share another way of thinking. :wink:

Say i our first goal and purpose, is to use a shooting machine. To attain 6 arrow out of 12 for a close match. We are interested here, to have the arrow perform with out human area. To achieve what the arrow can add if properly shot. We can turn the nocks for a closer matched 6. We can check clearance for the fletching when launched. We can relate to how the launcher is reacting to the launching of the arrow.

We can use are tiller setting to find what works best. We can time the bottom cam to hit be for the top cam and tantalize the out come. On and on.

This tells us the bow - rest and so on is performing to its up most. Its mechanical tuned and all aspects is performing with tight arrow grouping.


By placing the bow stationary in the bow holder. Ones concern now would be the shock thats transfered to the limbs at time of shot.

I have seen a lot of bows react, after a archer makes a shot. Some like them to top limb cast forward with very little forward movement of the bow hand. Its more of a down motion.
Then there is the right hand archer that explodes. And the hole bow flares to the left .Opposite for a left hand shooter. Then there is some like my self. The bow poof forward i minute amount.

So I feel if the bow and bow grip holder is allowed to have a drag and a slight roll at time of shot execution. Then the shot aspect should cause no damage to the limbs or the bows sight or other equipment, at time of shot.

Now my bow grip holder is mounted on a pipe with a long bolt, acting as a shaft. Where as the bow grip holder, can roll on the bolt shaft. Intern it has two 1/2 inch threaded nobs. Where as the drag can be induced by tightening the two 1/2 inch threaded nobs against the bolt shaft. Intern one can adjust forward cast of the top limbs. The only way i see a bow returning after a shot with any shooter. Is to be have a spring in place and a ketch the bow at time of recoil. And then release before the next event. [ Jump in.  Later


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hey guys post 84 shows a spring attached to a 1/2 inch eye bolt . To retrieve the arm and base in reverse, when turning the gear drive in reverse.

Now guys i would like to point out here .There will be 3 less nobs needed .And half inch eye bolts Will be there replacement.

First base arm will have 2 eye bolts. 2 nd base arm next the the gear winch. Will have one eye bolt.

Reason for the change. When using the Master Jig as a draw board. One also needs to retrieve the arm block. Next to the gear box. And intern using the front block stationary.To pull from with same spring, attached in the middle of both arm blocks.


Will take some pictures of these events so it will be easer to see, and to grasp. Love this bow press the more i use it. So simple and easy, or should i say easier :wink: [ later


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## Liviu (Oct 20, 2009)

Hello Unk,

Hope everything goes well.


Unk Bond said:


> So I feel if the bow and bow grip holder is allowed to have a drag and a slight roll at time of shot execution.


DISCLAIMER:wink:
You know that I am new to this stuff, and I'm trying to understand the physics involved, and apply it when I start building my shooting machine.
Having said that, of course that now I'm allowed to make rather dumb comments:grin:

Joking aside, I realize that the your grip holder rolls on a horizontal axis, but I wonder if the holder could induce a certain amount of side torque as the release block is at full draw, resembling to the thumb side pressure of the hand as an example (which would result in the "flaring to the left" of the bow that you mentioned).

Of course, when tuning the arrows this shouldn't matter at all, as the goal is to have a tight group (as you were saying), and the forces that act upon the bow handle, even if they are not ideal (lets call it "_machine error_"), are consistent throughout the shooting. Then the end result would be a batch of arrows that have the same characteristics, and that's all that is desired. I got this.
And just the same for cam timing, a little torque is not important.

You see, I started reading this thread with a predetermined state of mind. That is because I'm looking from a different POV, as I want to build my machine somewhat differently.

What I have in mind, is one equipped with an adjustable laser pointer at the release.
This way, at full draw, I would adjust the laser beam through the peep and the sight (on the desired pin depending on distance), and then it would be projected onto the target in an evident spot.
Once the bow is shot (with previously tuned arrows:wink, then it's possible to see where the aim was, where the arrow hit, the arrow flight, etc... and adjust the bow accordingly (be that nock position, rest, peep, sight...whatever).
In order to achieve this, I need the "_machine error_" to be zero. This is not possible, but the next best thing would be the teflon or teflon coated bow holder, as the coefficient of friction would be minimal:secret: 



Liviu said:


> I read somewhere (don't remeber the web page), that some guy was having problems with shooting the same arrow in the same hole, so he used a little WD40 on the bow holder and it solved it just like that :thumb:


I found that web page, it was on Google books.

The book is called: "Bowhunter's Guide to Accurate Shooting" by Lon E. Lauber. The chapter is called "Understanding Bow Torque" starting at page 58.

In a different paragraph, he also mentions using vaseline, talc, or cooking oil on the bow hand and the handle, to "_make your hand slip into the handle the same way every time_". Of course this just as an experiment.

You can preview it on Google books.

Later,
Liviu


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Liviu said:


> Hello Unk,
> 
> Hope everything goes well.
> 
> ...




*************************

Hello Liviu

Here is a little food for your food basket. :wink:

If you figure this out. Do let me know.
???/ how does one hold a Hoyt Ultra Elite or a Hoyt Vantage Elite at the bow grip.  [ Later


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Unk Bond said:


> *************************
> 
> Hello Liviu
> 
> ...


*******************

Well


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## Barry O'Regan (Nov 2, 2008)

*Beauty*

Nothing like American know how!
Nice setup.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Barry O'Regan said:


> Nothing like American know how!
> Nice setup.


Hello and thanks.

Just another way. :wink:


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All
A little up date. 
I ordered a power winch,with a hand control.today.To add to the Master Jig bow press.The change over.Should be quiet easy. Nothing like having power, to re-place the hand cranking.  I will replace the cable. Using my existing belt. Pic's a little later.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Here you go guys. 
The bow press now has power, just by one light touch of a button. The bow is pressed.  [ Later


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Close up pic's


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello all
I have added a 2 bock pulley system. To have more control over the speed of the winch, and my control IN button. 
Now you can move the fingers IN a smidge at a time.  :set1_applaud: :RockOn: This power press now, just gets smoother :RockOn: :RockOn: I'm just tickled pink :wink: and flabbergasted, how smooth this press works. [ Later


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello All

More pic's


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