# What are the effects of getting a bow too long or too short for your draw length?



## Morisato (Jan 13, 2010)

So, a recurve doesn't really have a set draw length like a compound, but I've read and repeated to others that the bow length should be chosen based on your draw length, and every thing I've read says that if you're draw length is less than 28", you should go for a 66" or less bow, where as if you are over 28" draw length, you should get a 68" or more. Now, because a recurve doesnt really have a set draw length, your not restricted by these rules that have been set up, so I'm curious as to what the effects are of getting a bow that is larger than recommended or smaller than recommended. The only thing I can think of would be that the bow string, when at full draw, would be at a different angle and may or may not touch your anchor points. What performance differences may there be for getting a bow that is considered too big or too small by recommendation for your draw length? At the moment, I'm using a bow that would be considered too small for my draw length, but it seems to still work fine for me.


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## DariusXV (Feb 18, 2009)

Hey,

My drawlength is 29" and I have tried both the 68" and 70" bowlengths.

The feel through the clicker is somewhat smoother with a longer length bow, but I found out something pretty interesting for myself in testing:

You know how recurve archery is all about form? I found out that my elbow position was not as inline with the longer draw bow than at 68".

Your results may vary, but I'm thinking that it is a balance between string angle (finger pinch), bow efficiency, smoothness of clicker, and alignment that is why the recommended numbers are what they are.

Hope this may help you!

Darren


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## Borderbows (Apr 4, 2009)

In bowers bible, there is a longbow vs short bow test in terms of stored energy vs limb mass. and it was accepted at the time that for the 28-29" draw, that a 68" bow was all round best.

Im not sure if this theory, has been "accepted" as norm, and transfered to recurves without question. but what you will notice, that although the bow length has been maintained, limb lengths have got shorter.
this would maintain the long limb vs short limb efficency stakes , as the whole point to a recurve is that the limb is smoother for any set length than a longbow.
So you can shift the concept of long limb vs short limb.

With this in mind, and increasing smoothness of bows, there is an arguement for shorter limbs.

The next question, is how much difference is there between a 70" bow and a 68" bow in terms of string angle at full draw for finger pinch.
I could be wrong, but i remember reading Gtek, quoting about 1 degree difference, which equates to not much to even less in my book. (thats if i remember correctly)

Bow performance drops quite quickly if you have say a 27" draw on a 70" bow.
vs a 27" draw on a 66" bow. 

There is a blend between speed to get you out of harms way quickly vs stability to get you where you wanted to be.
loads of stability, but 30min inflight time means birds have landed on your arrow and you missed, vs fast as heck, but wobbling all over the place and missed. so too long a bow and the long string and long limbs will suck the life out of performance, and too short and you stack out, but worse of all your limbs will snap.
so its comfort and reliability vs performance.


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## Harperman (Sep 3, 2006)

I have a short draw length, just under 27" with an OLY. type recurve, about 26" with a Longbow, but even so, (with a few exceptions), I've always just preferred a longer bow....The bulk of my equipment has been 23", or 25" risers, and Short or Medium limbs...I've owned two 21" ILF risers, a Bernardini Cobra, and a TAC BlackSheep...I was pretty much convinced that a 25" riser, and Short limbs was the way to go for Me....But, I've lately been shooting Medium limbs on my 25" riser, and even though I know that I'm losing some F.P.S., this riser/limb combo just seems to shoot well for Me,... then again, this is Archery, and it could be mental??....I know that I am...L.O.L...For my use of a bow, I dont know if the 25" riser, and Medium limbs is optimum for performance, but even at my short draw length, it seems that the 68" bow just shoots better...I'll also add that for me, I can shoot a few more pounds on my fingers, with medium limbs, and it feels the same as less weight with Shorts....At least for now?...Again, probably all mental......I'm still a bit torn on this subject, myself....I'm actually debating with myself the Pro's/Con's of a 68" bow VS. a 66" bow....To gain less than 12 f.p.s., with the 66" bow, I'm giving up length (stability) brace height (forgiveness) and what "Feels" like a smoother draw.....Is it really worth the speed trade-off??.....I dont know , at this point, but it makes for interesting and informative debate....Take Care......Harperman


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## hooktonboy (Nov 21, 2007)

Harperman said:


> ......I'm still a bit torn on this subject, myself....I'm actually debating with myself the Pro's/Con's of a 68" bow VS. a 66" bow....To gain less than 12 f.p.s., with the 66" bow, I'm giving up length (stability) brace height (forgiveness) and what "Feels" like a smoother draw.....Is it really worth the speed trade-off??.....I dont know , at this point, but it makes for interesting and informative debate....


That's certainly an interesting figure to quote (from the chrono?) Are we talking comparable limbs, same weight, different length?

... I would have thought 12fps could make an enormous difference to trajectory / sight marks at distance (of course depending on what figure you're starting with). To get back the "lost" 12fps, how much heavier weight would the medium limbs need to be compared to the short? Are we talking 6lbs? More?


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## Harperman (Sep 3, 2006)

hooktonboy said:


> That's certainly an interesting figure to quote (from the chrono?) Are we talking comparable limbs, same weight, different length?
> 
> ... I would have thought 12fps could make an enormous difference to trajectory / sight marks at distance (of course depending on what figure you're starting with). To get back the "lost" 12fps, how much heavier weight would the medium limbs need to be compared to the short? Are we talking 6lbs? More?


..Hooktonboy...I stated less than 12 f.p.s., probably more like 8-10 f.p.s....As for sight marks, I dont have any, I shoot Barebow,(3-D only) and at the shot distance that I shoot at, 10 f.p.s. will hardly be noticable, but surely out past 40 yards, the difference in arrow speed will become more noticable...As for the Chrono numbers, these are pretty much my own testing, so other's results may vary...As for bow poundage, VS. f.p.s., it seems that most limbs will pick up or lose about 2-3 f.p.s., per bow pound , all other things being equal....Harperman


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## zal (May 1, 2007)

Should be about 3fps difference between identical 66" and 68" bows.


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## Harperman (Sep 3, 2006)

zal said:


> Should be about 3fps difference between identical 66" and 68" bows.


..This would also depend on whether or not the draw length was ideal, meaning long enough for given bow length, VS. draw length, to get the recurves working to optimum,, right?? ..What about the difference in brace height?...1/2" more brace height will cost about 5 f.p.s, everthing else staying equal, right?...Most folks suggest 8 1/2"-9" brace for a 68" bow, dont they?...On my bows, I usually run between 8 1/4" to 8 1/2" brace for a 66" bow, and 8 3/8" to 8 5/8" on a 68" bow...Maybe this too low?..Or, does the little bit of extra draw weight that comes with the higher brace height(more pre-load on the limbs) cancle out the speed loss due to shortening the power stroke??..Seriously asking...Thanks!...Jim


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## zal (May 1, 2007)

....in identical (tuned) setups.

Of course you can get more fps difference by tuning the other one to hell. All it needs is one minor clearance issue and you drop that 10 extra fps.


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## zal (May 1, 2007)

Now, all this is academical in any case unless you change or retune your arrows too.

Simply: your arrows have a spine that needs the energy that the bow stroke gives to stay constant to stay in similar tune, ie. if you put shorter limbs you need to slow down the speed to get them tune properly and vice versa. Going to stiffer arrows with shorter limbs will in 99% of cases mean that the arrow is heavier too, which means that the speed stays about same. It will help in wind though in most cases with heavier arrow mass. Same is with going from slower limb to faster one, if you stay with same arrow type you can a) cut the shaft or point to stiffen them or b) go to stiffer arrow. So in real world only if you manage to get suitable tune using a) you can actually pick some speed, most likely you need to go with stiffer and all your hard earned $ that you put to your faster limbs will give you no advantage over the previous one.

Any fancy ideas about power strokes and brace heights and whatnots have absolutely zero meaning in real world since you can't really measure or in most cases even notice their meanings. All you can do is to tune the arrows properly, otherwise your setup will cost you points.

With my 33" draw I can hardly even notice difference in speed between most limbs, stored energy is high enough to give plenty of speed with most of them. It really is a case of ½ x (DL x peak LBS), and limb properties have absolutely minimal effect on that.


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## zal (May 1, 2007)

Now, to actually answer the original question:

with a short bow you get:
a bit of speed
possible excess finger pinch
requires more effort at extension phase
less string contact to chest or clothes
possibly more difficult to get a solid anchor and string touching the face and nose

with a long bow you get:
lower speed
easier extension, less effort at the clicker
better string angle
possibly stronger string contact at chest or clothes
easier to get more solid anchor

I'd say go for 68" starting at 27". Iirc Miss Park has 27" and a bit draw and 68" bow. I've had extremely good success with archers I coach using 70" bow at 28" and a bit draw.


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