# Setting initial nock point and centershot on PSEs ... what do YOU do?



## ColoradoNick (Oct 15, 2014)

I did #1 and #3


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## Chris1ny (Oct 23, 2006)

Maybe this link will help

https://media.shopatron.com/media/mfg/445/media_document/4030/Bow_Setup_Tuning.pdf?1290101308


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## Snakum (Oct 8, 2013)

Already have a copy of that one. I have a few general tuning guides. Was curious what more experienced guys do, specifically. Thanks tho.


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## mdharcher (Sep 8, 2006)

What I do is start with the center of the arrow running though the center of the burger hole and dead level. Then see how it tunes. If you are getting bad vertical arrow flight, then start moving your nock point up and/or your rest in small amounts. 

I use bare shaft tuning to check if I am heading in the right direction. 

I also have had great success with using group tuning with a piece of tape horizontally across my target.


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## Snakum (Oct 8, 2013)

Thanks for the info. I have read or heard so many methods for setting initial CS and nock height on PSEs I was just curious what some guys here do. I have heard guys say to set the nock 1/8" high every time to start, others say 90 degrees is the only way, etc.


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## mdharcher (Sep 8, 2006)

its a lot of personal preference. Its just a starting point, don't get to caught up in it. Getting it set for what is best for you is the hard part.


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## Snakum (Oct 8, 2013)

The nock point and center shot are now perfectly in line and I walk-back tuned the WB and then the sight was reset. It is better. I am still getting wild variations in groups due to changing my form and going to a new release. When I release an arrow now I am sometimes so far out of alignment the bow vibrates intensely side to side as much as 2 inches and it can put me off 12" at 50 yds. It feels like the time I got the shanks and went from a +12 to couldn't even hit the ball. I am a mess.


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## skynight (Nov 5, 2003)

On PSE I use the lines machined in the riser.


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## JStrebin (Feb 9, 2008)

Here is how I set mine up, I know some people may disagree on my method

1. Take the arrow that I am going to shoot and nock on the string throw my two levels on (one on the string and one on the arrow). Let it rest on my rest and move up and down till I get a level nock point with the top half of the arrow running through the line above the berger hole, make a mark with a silver sharpie on the center serving on the bottom of the nock. Pull the arrow off and tie my nocking point on the bottom of the nock.

2. I then will tie a simple but not dead set dloop on and head over tot he draw board and scale to check max poundage, Draw length, and cam timing. I like my top cam to hit about a 1/16th to an 1/8th before the bottom cam. also I will work out any cam lean at this stage to ensure the string is as straight as possible by placing an arrow on the side of the cam flat and checking where the tip hits on the string near my nock point.

3. I then take the arrow again and nock it up and double check level nock point. the nice thing about the lines in the risers ore that I can take one of nano or skinny shafts and lay in the groove and use that to set my center shot and nock height by adjusting the rest up, down, left, and right.

4. Paper tuning time. small movements at a time. I fix up and down tears first then move into left and right tears because most of the time you will have to some type of yoke or cable rod tweaking to fix those in my experience.

5. I will now tie in my peep and bolt my sight on and proceed to Walk Back tune. Once that is down I sight in and enjoy and make any small adjustments to cam timing and draw length that is needed.


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## Snakum (Oct 8, 2013)

Thanks for all the info. Much appreciated. Got rid of the worst of my 'archery shanks' and am now trying to swing a Nighthawk press, some serving material and basic tools/fixtures. I am a born tinkerer and terribly OCD (20+ years in QA Engineering/QA Management in software and mfg  ), so I am having a blast learning about this stuff.


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## MN_walker (Feb 17, 2011)

Although this has a fair amount of hybrid tuning information, it is one of the better PSE tuning threads around, its worth a look:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2201440

Hope this helps.


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## ozarkmtnhunter (Jul 17, 2005)

On my 15 Decree I check limb bolts to make sure they are equal turns out then I make sure my arrow is lined up with the factory machined marks. I set cams dead even at full draw. I adjust the flex guard to where I am getting just enough fletching clearance with my r2 vanes. Then bare shaft paper tune. Adjust the yokes till it is tearing a perfect hole then use a fletched arrow to paper tune. Usually don't have to change anything with the fletched arrow it will be tearing perfect holes.


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