# Hoyt SuperStar Legacy help needed



## Wanderingflight (Sep 8, 2016)

So you can see the poundage adjustment


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## Wanderingflight (Sep 8, 2016)

Thus bow has helped my group already, first trial at 30 yards three finger glove.


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## w8indq (Dec 9, 2013)

Hey man, I'm the one who pointed you over her, it doesn't get alot of traffic but no one will no more about these older hoyts than the guys in here. Just going to have to be a Lil patient as I might be a day or 2 for the answer-but at least it will be correct. 

Welcome to the best sub group and dying breed of archers  

Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk


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## Wanderingflight (Sep 8, 2016)

Thanks for the welcome. Believe me I've got the questions. I started out a couple of years ago on instinctive recurve. I don't hunt. I soon realized that the commonly available recurves were too short, too much poundage, not enough draw. I was close to getting Olympic recurve. I was also picking up old compounds from pawnshops.i actually bought a Bear Attack modern compound which is when I discovered I'm not interested in the new bows. My best finds were a Hoyt Spectra 1000, like new. Draw only lets out to 29" so I don't shoot it. Martin Custom Firecat. Too much poundage and string broke, nice little cut on the wrist. Browning Mirage, non-wood, too much poundage. Then I hurt my shoulder on a 45# recurve and dropped out for 6 months. I was frustrated with instinctive recurve. When I healed I reviewed my compounds and found new appreciation for my Bear Whitetail Hunter because 44", poundage at 35#, right draw, sights. I quit losing, breaking arrows. I also setup a 44" Bear Hunter, even better. Now I new what I wanted, long, low poundage but higher end so I would know the bow wasn't my limitation. Just this week I found two bows, a Jennings T-Star XL and this SuperStar


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## BLGreenway (Jan 18, 2014)

Wanderingflight. My recommendation is to call Hoyt. Even though their charts online only go to 1997, I was able to get help with my Hoyt Pro Star Legacy and it is a 1994. They may know how to talk you through it to determine what kind of setup this bow originally had and what you can do with it. I'd recommend going to them and then when you get the appropriate lengths, get someone to make you the appropriate strings and cables. I have no idea how old those strings and cables are. 

Also, from the picture you show, I can see that your bow is set to the lowest part of its range in poundage, and I would not drop it any lower. I say that because the limb pocket is already out from the riser, which is fine, but I'd not go any lower. Again, I would talk to Hoyt and see if they can help you. just my suggestion.


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## Wanderingflight (Sep 8, 2016)

Thanks for reply. Just today I called Hoyt. She had all the specs for strings. She said the "7" "e cam", was a 31" cam. I'm not sure if the e or the 7 made it a 31" on the middle anchor post. So apparently Hoyt used cams specific to draw length with slight adjustability. As important to me is that I measured the peak weight of those limbs and they hit 72#. That doesn't work for me. They must have backed off more than the eight max turns to get to 45# so it was likely unsafe. As well a local shop quoted 175.00 for new strings and cables. The long and the short of it is the bow didn't fit me so I returned it. It did encourage me me however as my groups improved significantly on the one and only shoot I did. So the quest continues, hampered by the commonly too strong bows around. It's hard finding Vantages or Ultra Elites etc. 

The good news is I have that excellent condition Jennings T-Star XL that needs nothing. I do have some questions, would I be likely to get any bites in fingerbow? Thanks


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## BLGreenway (Jan 18, 2014)

Wanderingflight said:


> The good news is I have that excellent condition Jennings T-Star XL that needs nothing. I do have some questions, would I be likely to get any bites in fingerbow? Thanks


I personally don't know anything about that bow, but who knows, maybe someone here knows a thing or two about an old Jennings. Glad you were able to get some answers on your Hoyt!


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## biblethumpncop (May 14, 2004)

The wheel is an E-wheel, or energy wheel. The let off should be 65%, and size 7 is the wheel size that gives you the 30-32" draw. If you had the right strings and cables, and cranked the limbs down it would probably tighten up the string and shorten the DL a little. That bow used the same limbs as a previous generation of Hoyts, so if you are in love with the heavy riser and grip, you could put limbs from a Provantage or Spectra on it, and a set of #5 or #6 E-wheels.


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## Wanderingflight (Sep 8, 2016)

Well that's just it. Too much money and effort to make the bow comply. That sucker is heavy on the left arm! There's a bow they are calling a fast flight on eBay now with that same riser I believe. They are calling it a 55-70#. I wonder if that's accurate, , Hoyt said 8 turns max.


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## BLGreenway (Jan 18, 2014)

If I am looking at the same bow on Ebay that you are describing, those are not energy wheels, but command cams as I believe they called them. They call it a 30 inch draw, but they never came in one inch draw...but always 28-30 or 30-32. And the limbs look a little shorter than the Hoyt legacy you had. It would be a faster bow than what you had and what I have. And I would imagine that the draw weight is accurate. The range is only 15 pounds, which is why I was concerned about the bow you had. Someone had really cranked that down and I didn't want it to pull out on you as you shot it. And yes...it is a heavy bow, very heavy, but I'm used to it now.


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## Wanderingflight (Sep 8, 2016)

The one I saw said it was setup for fishing, oddly the one I had was too. I didn't take a close look at it. The Hoyt rep was pretty specific saying the 7 was a 31" cam set on center post, nothing about it being a 30, 31, 32. She said the outer post would only affect the 31" slightly. For this reason I thought a cam change would be necessary to get to 30 or messing around with non standard string lengths which I didn't want to do either.


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## Since1985Tx (Jan 19, 2021)

Wanderingflight said:


> I was advised to start my over here in fingerbow. In General I was helped to identify this new bow acquisition. The bow has no label, limb says just Legacy. Tuning charts stop at 1997 and this apparently is a 95 or so. I gather this was a very good bow from the period and I like it a lot. The bow is 44" ata straight line, currently set at 45#. It had a fishing rig on it.
> 
> I ran into an issue with draw length. I am a 30" draw and shoot 31" arrows. On this bow the cam seems to be set at the shortest setting but is drawing at least 31". It'll pull a 31" arrow past the Berger hole and about off the riser. I put a whisker biscuit on it slid back so I could shoot it today. If I stretch out I can shoot it but would like to shorten the draw an inch. The cam just says 7.


Have a Hoyt Prostar Meridian from a 1995 purchase. It still has the original riser/limb spec tag(s) and I probably have the original Hoyt brochure from that year with all the specs for this bow.....It also shows all Hoyt bows from that year.
Yes, back then Hoyt had beautiful full colored hold in your hand "printed" brochures!

The Prostar (Superstar) was a true *deflex riser*. It was the most accurate, _most forgiving_ compound I have *ever* shot with fingers _(and tab) in my archery lifetime.

I'm sure this was the first year that Hoyt put out a partially computer designed fully machined aluminum riser with the holes machined out along the riser to keep it's required strength while decreasing the overall weight. 
It was the first time they offered anodized colors.... (both before any other)...Now it's second nature to most other brands._

(I have always shot fingers with all my Hoyt compounds since 1985).


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## kballer1 (Aug 31, 2010)

3 post on a 30-31-31" Has 32" on first post where string enters cam middle post 31" & closed to axle would be 30".


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