# Jarlickers latest coaching tip. Long Read



## jarlicker (Jul 29, 2002)

Alrighty then. Here is another jarlicker coaching tip for all you kiddies.

As I was out shooting some field archery today with Macaholic, each of us was struggling with the same issue that is quite common among non- professional archers
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Now let me just say this I don’t consider most of you beginners any longer. All of you shoot decent enough. Heck, most of you can challenge each other competing for the A class Championship of earth. So let’s consider this a Junior Year level instruction class. 
This comes complete with freshman and sophomore year refresher test.

This is a great time of the year to work on some shooting form issues. 
While most of us are transitioning from the longer outdoor distance shooting to some strict 20 yard indoor archery and even going back and forth between the two We suddenly start noticing things that seem different form problems we have from the other archery games we play. We all start struggling to find the answers. Believe it or not, the problems are not different. You are just seeing the results of the same problems differently through your scope or group patterns.

Now look here. In this transition between Indoors and outdoors I am going to take several things for granted. Let’s cover some basic equipment set up items. I figure you know your equipment set up and specifications pretty well.

Draw length – During Indoor season we like to get really comfortable, Heck perfect footing, lighting and such. Why not? I could see tweaking the draw length by 1/8 to ¼ of an inch longer. That is o/k But, not necessary though. We tend to get a bit stretched out playing with the draw length. One must be careful not to over do it. Your basic shot should not change much from one venue to another. Take that perfect form and draw length back out doors and see what happens as soon as you have to shoot up or down any grades. Suddenly you can’t hold well anymore or sight picture jumps all over. You need to shorten that draw length back down that tiny 1/8 – ¼ inch to hold tightly again. Test your draw length adjustment for good sight picture and shot execution on a tough angled grade. The best target to use would be that one Field Target that usually gives you fits. For me an uphill slanting right grade target. Heck, leave your draw length set at the Outdoor draw length. I saw you kill those 15 to 30 yard dots all summer long. That indoor dot is larger and its just 20 yards any how. LOL.

Peep sight height – Now most of you have heard that shooting outdoors to set you peep height at the middle of the sight scale for the distance ranges you expect to shoot. For field archery most archers would set their peep height to be most comfortable and consistent at 50 yard sight setting. This minimizes the amount of change needed in your anchor to center up the scope in the center of peep sight at all the different distances (10 – 80 yards) aimed during a field round.

During Indoor season we need to just shoot one distance 20 yards. So we set the peep height to be the most comfortable and consistent at 20 yard sight setting.


O/k, Okay I can here all of you saying Come on jarlicker get on with the lesson.
Today’s lesson is to teach you how to correct this most common problem. I mean form flaw. Sorry Folks we all have issues………………

Now look I know each one of you has heard 101 reasons why and 1001 fixes for this problem.

The sight dropping out the bottom of the dot and not being able to get the aiming point back into the center of the bull’s-eye easily.

We tend to see this phenomenon right away once we go inside. Why is this happening?
Quickly go back to basics.

Basic #1
Are we centering all the circles up while anchored, aiming and executing the shot?
Is the target centered in the scope housing, scope hosing centered in the peep.

Basic #2
Did you adjust you peep sight to be most comfortable and consistent at your 20 yard sight setting. If not you may be now ducking into your peep sight because the peep is too high. Now you are looking through the peep at an angle lower than what is truly comfortable and repeatable.

Basics #3
Did you adjust your draw length longer as soon as you started shooting inside?
Your draw length can be too long causing you to not be able to stop or hold the aiming point in the center. Too long a draw length can make you drop out the bottom. Same as too short a draw length can cause you to lock up on top of the target.

Basics #4
Use your bow stabilizers. You will most likely have to play with the stabilizers to get that perfect hold.
You have most likely changed arrows for shooting indoors. 
These new super heavy indoor log arrows are going to react differently from those light little twig arrows you use outdoors.

All right. Here we are thinking we got all those little details figured out. 
We are starting to shoot better. Then bingo it happens all of a sudden you start struggling with that dreaded issue The sight dropping out the bottom of the dot and not being able to get the aiming point back into the center of the bull’s-eye easily. 
Let’s be smart here. O/k, I know we all say it and we all believe it. Something has changed. First thing I do is check the bow. I know we have the world’s most perfect form, so it has to be the equipment. We have taken all the precautions.

The bow sight is still tight, set at the correct position on the sight extension. The scope is not loose.

I got all the measurements on my own bow square. 
Peep height is perfect. 
Tiller has not moved. Heck I got limb bolt locks on them.
Nocking point is the same. 
Strings and cables have not changed. I use the best string material by the finest string makers in the land. I have marked the bows wheels and cams to prove it and I am still hitting my timing marks with the bow drawn and not drawn 
That d loop is just as sweet as the moment I tightened her down with d loop pliers.
Then I measured the length of my arrow hitting the rest while at full draw. It is still the same. 
Heck even the draw weight is still the same. 
Therefore I know my draw length has not changed over night.

Let’s always practice all proper shooting form basics, so these issues can immediately be ruled out.
1- My stance is always the same. Maintain good balance. I must not wave or rock at full draw. Feet set perfectly every time to minimize all movement through out shot execution.
2 - I set my bow hand and wrist position before I draw the bow and maintain it with out changing it at all through out the shot. Keeping my bow wrist down and still through out will give me my best results.
3 - Anchor is exactly the same each time. Solid and tight against all contact points.
4 - I keep the release very still any movement of the release in my hand cause bow string movement.
5 - The string is touchy my nose in exactly place and firmness the same each time. 
Heck, I even tied a little serving nock on the string for my nose to touch every time to test it.
6 - I draw the string straight into my anchor with out settling in. Not changing muscle tension each and every time.
7 - Remember to aim focusing on the center of the circle not over aiming for the center of the x ring.
8 -Always focus more on the center of the circle than the aiming dot. Look through the dot.
9 - Strive to keep all three circles centered in good alignment. Peep – scope – target.

I know everything is good with all the above items.
Let’s have a deeper look.
Remember all that practice we have been doing using back tension to execute the shot.
There are many tiny little form items to check here.
Back tension does not start once you are in your anchor and you want the shot to fire.
Remember to have good consistent back tension release you must have good bone to bone alignment. This bone to bone alignment and back tension work together all at the same time. They start by mere action of picking up the bow while preparing to draw the string. 
A - We first set our proper bow hand position and bow wrist. 
B - While drawing using correct back tension we maintain the same hand and wrist position. 
C – Set the bow arm shoulder and feel the correct tension of the bow arm and back muscles. 
D - We draw straight into our anchor while continually maintaining the tension created above.
With the perfect draw length adjustment you should easily be able to get into your anchor while maintaining all tension and alignment. Any changes by trying to settle in will likely cause a change of hand position, wrist position, bone to bone alignment and muscle tension. This will cause sight movement (difficulty aiming, which can lead sight falling out the bottom of the dot), inconsistent anchor (trouble centering peep, can cause poor sight alignment making dot fall out the bottom), trouble centering the circles, difficulty with shot execution and poor follow through.

I know all this is sounding very complicated. The problem is we are not finished.
All those above items each and every one of them becomes exceedingly important at this moment. Remember we never ever stop practicing the basics. Basics 101 - Relax
Now we start aiming. To aim correctly we need all of the previous # & letters to fall into place? Continue proper Aiming through out the entire shot. This is tough to master once we need to increase back tension to properly fire the release. While increasing back tension all this proper form need to be maintained. This is the moment the sight drops out the bottom. 
What may be happening? We have very slight amount of head movement. Problem is we swear we are not moving our head. But listen. We have pretty much by now got the form basics down. 
Bow hand torque should not be an issue. 
We have worked hard correcting hand position from the first days of shooting archery. (Bow torque can be seen when lining up the circles - Aiming) 
You have made sure you are keeping your wrist down and still 
(Wrist movement – haunching Rising up or collapsing – falling down is one of the most common form flaws. This causes fluctuations in draw length and unwanted changes in alignment and tension. This causes major sight movement that can be seen when lining up circles - Aiming) 
We have worked hard on getting into our proper T- form. The bows draw length is correct any changes to alignment or tension can cause pushing and collapsing. 
Which leads to major form breakdowns (Shows up while centering circles - Aiming).

What else could be left? But head movement...
While doing all else correctly, we apply back tension. The problem is we get some movement in our neck, which our head is connected to by the way. Upon pulling we may be lifting our head slightly. You are keeping your bow hand nice and steady but you are now looking at your sight dot at a different angle and the sight now appears to be low.
So, how do you learn to correct this head movement?
Again learn to totally relax. Ensure you are in your anchor good and tight. Focus on keeping your head into the string. Maintain that great anchor position through the shot execution phase. Make sure your peep sight is set at that perfect height.
Find that perfect peep aperture size and scope housing combination for the target faces you are going to be shooting. Again keep that head still. 

This is all magnified by the use of larger diameter circles. Large peep apertures, large scope housing are much tougher to keep centered properly Shorter sight length to peep distances would can cause errors in centering circles less evident to the eye.
The shorter distance to the target and smaller target face circles make errors centering up more evident 


As you can see we never stop practicing the shooting form basics. These basics just continue to get more refined as we progress into shooting better scores.
This is where your shooting form really begins being a major part of your mental game.
All this needs to be boiled down through coaching, practice, repetition and determination.
Suddenly it becomes easy. You just need to fix the real problem and not go for the quick three day fix.


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## pragmatic_lee (Jan 19, 2008)

Great post JL - will have to come back and read again after a few more cups of coffee. :smile:


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## Prag Jr (Oct 16, 2008)

Thanks JL. I needed to hear all of that. I think my draw length is too long. I can't seem to hold steady. My pin is all over the target. I would love to get another one on one coaching lesson!:teeth:


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## mdbowhunter (Oct 22, 2002)

Nice post jarlicker. :thumbs_up Gonna have to print this one and digest it a bit more.


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## psargeant (Aug 1, 2004)

Dang Joe...I didn't know you could type that much,...what did that take you ...like 3 days...

Really good post...oh BTW...we shooting this upcoming weekend??? Already told the wife i was going...


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

psargeant said:


> Dang Joe...I didn't know you could type that much,...what did that take you ...like 3 days...
> 
> Really good post...oh BTW...we shooting this upcoming weekend??? Already told the wife i was going...


I was thinking the same thing. 

It looks good...but since I just got home and have been staring at a computer screen ALL DAY. I will have to read that later


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## IGluIt4U (Sep 22, 2004)

Brown Hornet said:


> I was thinking the same thing.
> 
> It looks good...but since I just got home and have been staring at a computer screen ALL DAY. I will have to read that later


It's a good read, I must say.. well done Jarlicker.. :thumb: :cheers:

I'll take all the coachin I can get.. (especially for free..) :lol: :wink:

Just starting up indoors with the BT tomorrow evening... Rattleman - better bring a screwdriver to free up an errant arrow, just in case.. :chortle: :bolt:


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## LoneEagle0607 (Jan 15, 2008)

*Thanks for the lesson*

Great post, Jarlicker. Your lessons are just in time for me as I'm having difficulty getting a solid anchor point with my new bow. I know my peep is too high. Great things to work on. How long DID it take you to type all that up? Thanks, again.


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## mdbowhunter (Oct 22, 2002)

IGluIt4U said:


> Just starting up indoors with the BT tomorrow evening... Rattleman - better bring a screwdriver to free up an errant arrow, just in case.. :chortle: :bolt:


Hey Sticky, let me contact 'The Scrawny Guy'. He has *TONS* more experience at digging out errant arrows than Rattleman.


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## IGluIt4U (Sep 22, 2004)

mdbowhunter said:


> Hey Sticky, let me contact 'The Scrawny Guy'. He has *TONS* more experience at digging out errant arrows than Rattleman.


hehehehe.. send that 'darksider' on down.. I wanna see his game.. :thumb: :wink:


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## Prag Jr (Oct 16, 2008)

ttt


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

Thanks Jr....

I forgot to go back and read this before :doh:


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## Prag Jr (Oct 16, 2008)

I got tired of searching through the others to find it. I need to print it out and tape it to my bow!


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## jarlicker (Jul 29, 2002)

After the way I shot yesterday I needed to reread my own stuff. Great reminder!


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## Bees (Jan 28, 2003)

jarlicker said:


> After the way I shot yesterday I needed to reread my own stuff. Great reminder!



ya might try aiming and know that the release will fire..


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## jarlicker (Jul 29, 2002)

*exactly!*


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## Zed (Nov 22, 2008)

thanks for a great write up jarlicker.
answered some of the questions I had been mulling through in my head.:darkbeer:


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## New River (Oct 29, 2007)

*falling out the bottom*

Had this problem for several years and just thought it was a form of target panic and had little to do with equipment or form as I can hold n the dot until I start the shot exicution. I read an article written a few years back by a former olympic shooter. He trained with a back tension release set to click but not go off. You know the routine, 60 arrows a day for 21 days without releasing a single arrow. Do you have any idea how hard that is? OK now you have given me some reason to tinker with my equipment and form or lack of form I should say/


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