# DIY target stab build.



## Wenty (Jan 6, 2012)

A few more pics of the finished product.


----------



## apt2106 (Jan 19, 2012)

THAT. IS. AWESOME! I just bought my first target bow and have noticed how outrageous stab prices are.


----------



## Wenty (Jan 6, 2012)

apt2106 said:


> THAT. IS. AWESOME! I just bought my first target bow and have noticed how outrageous stab prices are.


Thank you...I think so too!

When I started this I wanted a end product that would rival any high end stab set in weight...function and look. I think I hit them all...and looks maybe even better. The copper/flat black looks great in person. The separate tubes have a nice rotary gun look. Weight and stiffness... hit it. 

The best part of it...sub $20 total for both stabs. Still working on weights...going to use fender washers...flat black. 

The entire process is so easy. Simple tools. A little putzy...great project. Better than sitting in front of the tube or spending hundreds on a stab set.


----------



## apt2106 (Jan 19, 2012)

Wenty said:


> Thank you...I think so too!
> 
> When I started this I wanted a end product that would rival any high end stab set in weight...function and look. I think I hit them all...and looks maybe even better. The copper/flat black looks great in person. The separate tubes have a nice rotary gun look. Weight and stiffness... hit it.
> 
> ...


Can you tell me what epoxy you used and a better picture or description of the copper caps?

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


----------



## Wenty (Jan 6, 2012)

apt2106 said:


> Can you tell me what epoxy you used and a better picture or description of the copper caps?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


The epoxy I chose was loctite 2 part multi purpose 3400 psi. Just a standard epoxy. Not sure if this is a "correct" choice. But I can't ever see these breaking loose. I'll add. I did take the Dremel to the inside of the caps and scored them pretty good to give extra bite to the epoxy.

The caps are a just a standard copper pipe 3/4" cap. These have/had a slight convex...as mentioned. I couldn't find the flat face at my local hardware store. They would probably be a better choice just so you don't have to hammer these ones flat. Easy enough...but.

I have a extra cap I f'd up on...I'll do a quick how to with the solder.


----------



## apt2106 (Jan 19, 2012)

Wenty said:


> The epoxy I chose was loctite 2 part multi purpose 3400 psi. Just a standard epoxy. Not sure if this is a "correct" choice. But I can't ever see these breaking loose. I'll add. I did take the Dremel to the inside of the caps and scored them pretty good to give extra bite to the epoxy.
> 
> The caps are a just a standard copper pipe 3/4" cap. These have/had a slight convex...as mentioned. I couldn't find the flat face at my local hardware store. They would probably be a better choice just so you don't have to hammer these ones flat. Easy enough...but.
> 
> I have a extra cap I f'd up on...I'll do a quick how to with the solder.


And the weights you just purchased or did you make those also?

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


----------



## Wenty (Jan 6, 2012)

Here's the cap process I used. I messed this one up in drilling. Grabbed a old bolt just show.
Once soldered in and epoxy on top of that...I don't think they'll ever go anywhere. I probably could have used just epoxy...but felt the solder really helped the rotational strength.
Weights are Bstinger weights. They don't fit the bolt. But centered and snugged. Same with the weights I'll use. I'm going to pick up some inserts to take up that hole size. Or maybe not. If I center them and blue loctite snugged up they shouldn't go anywhere. I wouldn't have a issue using any brand weight. It's just weight.


----------



## smz (Sep 17, 2012)

Haven't seen this idea before, good luck!


----------



## apt2106 (Jan 19, 2012)

Thanks! I now have a weekend project.


----------



## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

That's a pretty cool way to make a stabilizer. :thumbs_up

Thanks for posting it. Let us know how it works out.

Allen


----------



## apt2106 (Jan 19, 2012)

22" I made tonight. Not finished....just wanted to see how it would go together. 



















Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


----------



## Wenty (Jan 6, 2012)

aread said:


> That's a pretty cool way to make a stabilizer. :thumbs_up
> 
> Thanks for posting it. Let us know how it works out.
> 
> Allen


Not bad so far....dialing in weight today. First session with this setup. After some dialing in weight I settled on 2oz. up front and 6 on back...for today. Shot my high score. 

No vibe or issue at all. The one thing I may do differently...drill out the front and epoxy in a nut so I can use a different weight system/method of securing. No issue...but that small bolt is a weak spot in the aluminum insert. Not sure it would ever be a issue...but...
My rear stab...the main bolt ended up a little off center/crooked. Works fine for the back bar. But when I was playing around with it in front it was a bit crooked. I think when I hung it for paint off the main stud the epoxy was a little soft yet and tweaked that cap.

For that matter I may just build another...refined in a few areas as mentioned.


----------



## RTILLER (May 4, 2009)

Nice build, thanks for sharing.


----------



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

I love these stabs. We must have similar thoughts. Earlyer this year, I made a shorter one like these. I didn't use copper caps, but I used aluminum caps to keep it light. Then use weight and or rubber on end.









Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## redneck-archery (Jan 8, 2014)

Looks like you done an awesome job to me. I agree about the cost of some of them, way out of sight. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Wenty (Jan 6, 2012)

mgwelder said:


> I love these stabs. We must have similar thoughts. Earlyer this year, I made a shorter one like these. I didn't use copper caps, but I used aluminum caps to keep it light. Then use weight and or rubber on end.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice. Where did you get the aluminum caps? That said I could probably order them from somewhere.
I thought aluminum. But couldn't find locally... readily available.

I will say that as far as light and strong...like any good carbon stab. These are right there. 

So...the next part of this build. Weights! 
I looked into several stabilizer company weights. Not at $4+/oz. Thought and did the washers. Just didn't look right and needed so many just to get the weight up there. A simple socket. Works about as well as anything else. Vinyl tape and a little spray paint. Looks like weight. Functions like weight. It's weight! And at $.62/oz. VS. $4.00/oz. Way cheaper than any stabilizer company. 

I really like the look of the copper/flat black. I think I'm going to take larger copper caps and do the same riser thing I did with riser side cap...fill with solder/bolt till I get the weight needed. And screw it right on. It will both function and match the build. I may tinker with that today...it's -40 outside.


----------



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

Wenty said:


> Nice. Where did you get the aluminum caps? That said I could probably order them from somewhere.
> I thought aluminum. But couldn't find locally... readily available.
> 
> I will say that as far as light and strong...like any good carbon stab. These are right there.
> ...


The aluminum caps I made. I work in a welding shop. The end weight, is aluminum and was turned on a lathe at work. I love the copper and black combo also. The socket weight is genius. Adjust by different sizes...

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## mmeadow (Jun 29, 2016)

Here is my version. I used xx75 eastons for the arrow instead of carbon ones. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk


----------



## pomorski1 (Oct 21, 2016)

[emoji1531]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Oncorhynchus (May 19, 2016)

for later - thanks


----------



## OhWell (Aug 21, 2013)

These are really nice. I have built my own stabs for years and years. I have never done one like this though, very cool. I have always hit up the local pro-shops for old carbon golf shafts.


----------



## Wolfhunt (Dec 28, 2016)

Nice work!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk


----------



## RGV hunter (Sep 20, 2014)

Wenty said:


> Nice. Where did you get the aluminum caps? That said I could probably order them from somewhere.
> I thought aluminum. But couldn't find locally... readily available.
> 
> I will say that as far as light and strong...like any good carbon stab. These are right there.
> ...


Socket weight is a great idea. Gonna try that for the weights. I was thinking if I wanted to add weight I would just fill the inside with washers and use a long screw.


----------



## RGV hunter (Sep 20, 2014)

Here is my version of this design. I changed it up a bit but it is still similar. I like this better than the hi-tek kit. Thanks for the idea.


----------



## lunect (Feb 25, 2012)

Wow. it looks nice and has good functionality.


----------



## Nevada-Smith (Jan 12, 2017)

RGV hunter said:


> Here is my version of this design. I changed it up a bit but it is still similar. I like this better than the hi-tek kit. Thanks for the idea.
> View attachment 5426777


Is that heat shrink tubing?


----------



## RGV hunter (Sep 20, 2014)

Yes it is heat shrink tubing. Works great. I shot with it today. 

I took a few shots without the stabilizer and noticed that I was off target. I then shot with the stabilizer on it and it made a big difference. I added some weight to the end.


----------



## RGV hunter (Sep 20, 2014)

Yes it is


----------



## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

I have to say when I first saw this thread I was thinking "Yawn another stabilizer thread" but I have to say I was pleasantly surprised this is the first time I've seen a thread where the arrows were super glued together. Seems like a really inexpensive way to make a very strong light and stiff stabilizer rod. Now if we had a decent sources for end caps that fit all the myriad of arrow sizes we would be golden. Still it is a really cool idea and worth the read. Thanks for sharing!


----------



## RGV hunter (Sep 20, 2014)

This one that I made works really well. It makes a big difference.


----------



## redneck-archery (Jan 8, 2014)

instead of soldering your bolt in use lead ( old tire weight, sinkers, etc.). Just melt it with a torch & pour it in your cap. You can make weights by doing the same with the lead but use the nut in these caps so you can screw them on the end. make several that are different weights so you can change it out as needed & it will match your stab. Just my 2 cents worth on it.


----------



## aggietex08 (Dec 21, 2016)

That looks amazing! I am going to attempt to make a hunting 8in version. Thinking of filling with silicone for additional weight and vibration damping material. I've done that in my tennis racquet handles before. How did you remove the logos off the shafts?


----------



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

aggietex08 said:


> That looks amazing! I am going to attempt to make a hunting 8in version. Thinking of filling with silicone for additional weight and vibration damping material. I've done that in my tennis racquet handles before. How did you remove the logos off the shafts?


Scotchbright works great

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## 138104 (May 14, 2009)

Acetone will take the labels off too.


----------



## svendogger (Aug 16, 2012)

I think they all look fantastic. Function over fashion anyway. Keep us posted if there are any things you would change after using them awhile please!


----------



## Oldertractor (Jun 30, 2016)

This is great info, I'm looking at building a set of stabs for my bow.


----------



## RVA (Nov 30, 2016)

Can also purchase carbon fiber tubing along with the carbon endcaps already set up with threaded inserts for weights at a fraction of the price of name brands. Only thing needed is cutting and gluing.


----------



## MandK (Jul 29, 2013)

Where?


----------



## RVA (Nov 30, 2016)

https://www.rockwestcomposites.com/...fiber-tubing/fabric-weave-carbon-tubing/45354

Thats for the tubing. Also can buy the end caps that the tubing slides into that is threaded. I will try to look them up again when I get some time.


----------



## RVA (Nov 30, 2016)

Heres the weight end

http://dragonplate.com/ecart/product.asp?pID=5182&cID=170


----------



## young7.3 (Jul 11, 2012)

Tagged 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RGV hunter (Sep 20, 2014)

LeonBaran said:


> https://www.rockwestcomposites.com/...fiber-tubing/fabric-weave-carbon-tubing/45354
> 
> Thats for the tubing. Also can buy the end caps that the tubing slides into that is threaded. I will try to look them up again when I get some time.


I was looking into these web links. One tube is $59.00. The end caps are $11.00. Just to make one it would cost $81.00 plus shipping. Unless you are going to build several of them, it would not be cost effective. Don't get me wrong, they would look good building one with these carbon products but you will not save money if you are only looking to build just one. When I made mine it was about saving money. Total cost for mine was about $18.00. The most expensive item was the epoxy.


----------



## RVA (Nov 30, 2016)

RGV hunter said:


> I was looking into these web links. One tube is $59.00. The end caps are $11.00. Just to make one it would cost $81.00 plus shipping. Unless you are going to build several of them, it would not be cost effective. Don't get me wrong, they would look good building one with these carbon products but you will not save money if you are only looking to build just one. When I made mine it was about saving money. Total cost for mine was about $18.00. The most expensive item was the epoxy.


Yes I would agree. Seems the price of the carbon has gone up some. I built a 30,15 set awhile back using them. Ended up costing less than 50 bucks and looked great. Cant post a pic bc bow was stolen. On those I just bought some .75 od x 1" aluminum round stock and drilled and tapped threaded hole in center and epoxyed them in. You could probably use the same endcaps in the thread and buy the correct carbon for it. Still less than 1/2 price of some of these sets. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Wenty (Jan 6, 2012)

*******-archery said:


> instead of soldering your bolt in use lead ( old tire weight, sinkers, etc.). Just melt it with a torch & pour it in your cap. You can make weights by doing the same with the lead but use the nut in these caps so you can screw them on the end. make several that are different weights so you can change it out as needed & it will match your stab. Just my 2 cents worth on it.


Not so sure lead is the best choice. I'd use epoxy before lead. Heavy...soft lead...I don't think that head would stay put with lead. Too soft and added weight. 

The lead free solder is tuff and adheres well. 

Since it's been bumped and a few questions...

I've had zero issues. I crank these things tight...trying to bust that solder or cap loose. I can't. Been no separation of the caps or shafts. Been very pleased. 

I took a well known brand stabilizer of similar length and diameter. It had more flex. These 7 shafts glued together are stiff! Light!

I can't see how a stab of name brand has anything on this build...besides the weight mounting I used. It is a weak point for obvious reasons. I haven't had any issue...but. I think with a well placed insert or coupling nut epoxied inside that bundle would make these stabs end to end as tough as any name brand. And the rest of the specs match name brands...and in static stiffness...stiffer. 

I was also looking into wraps. Would need a steady hand to work those nooks and crannies. But would give these a custom look...if one was so inclined. I like the flat black copper myself.


----------



## RGV hunter (Sep 20, 2014)

Wenty said:


> Not so sure lead is the best choice. I'd use epoxy before lead. Heavy...soft lead...I don't think that head would stay put with lead. Too soft and added weight.
> 
> The lead free solder is tuff and adheres well.
> 
> ...


I agree with this. I made mine similar but didn't use any solder. I just epoxied everything. I then used the heat shrink and it is solid. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


----------



## rmz250689 (Oct 16, 2010)

awesome!!


----------



## stuff87 (Aug 2, 2016)

These look amazing! I'm setting aside some arrow shafts right now to make my own lol.


----------



## RGV hunter (Sep 20, 2014)

Unless I want to change the look, I will be using this stab for a long time. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


----------



## MaJa77 (Jun 26, 2016)

Here's a few I built from old shafts.


----------



## braderton (Nov 19, 2016)

That is super creative. Nice work.


----------



## big44a4 (Dec 23, 2016)

Looks great! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ROSSMAN2 (Feb 16, 2008)

Just got done making my target stabilizers today. They turned out great for me making them 
View attachment 5815529
View attachment 5815545
View attachment 5815553


----------



## leoncrandall74 (Apr 9, 2017)

I made a 6",8",and a 10" running the 8 and 10 now. A back bar mount I made from piece of aluminum (hook to hang framing nailer). The next stabilizer believe it or not was a piston from a roof nailer. And the last is a stabilizer mounted bipod from a couple of broken Arrows and the scrap of the nail gun hook left over from the back bar mount









Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk


----------



## krieger (Jan 24, 2007)

leoncrandall74 said:


> I made a 6",8",and a 10" running the 8 and 10 now. A back bar mount I made from piece of aluminum (hook to hang framing nailer). The next stabilizer believe it or not was a piston from a roof nailer. And the last is a stabilizer mounted bipod from a couple of broken Arrows and the scrap of the nail gun hook left over from the back bar mount
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Love that bipod!! Sweet build man! I may have to work on one of those for myself..


----------



## leoncrandall74 (Apr 9, 2017)

krieger said:


> Love that bipod!! Sweet build man! I may have to work on one of those for myself..


Thank you it works very well. The 4 holes in the center are to attach my sling. There are inserts in the ends of the arrows so the legs can screw off

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk


----------



## RGV hunter (Sep 20, 2014)

Nice, very nice. I like the camo pattern. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


----------



## leoncrandall74 (Apr 9, 2017)

RGV hunter said:


> Nice, very nice. I like the camo pattern.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


It is true timber kanati hydrodip film it matches realtree ap and hardwoods pretty well. I'm in the process of dipping my switchback now (cam idler, limb pockets, roller guard etc.)

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk


----------



## leoncrandall74 (Apr 9, 2017)

krieger said:


> Love that bipod!! Sweet build man! I may have to work on one of those for myself..


I've got an idea for a bipod I'm gonna try on my switchback when I get it back together. It's going to be a bracket attached to the bottom limb bolt between the nylon washers

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk


----------



## cdrake73 (May 20, 2017)

ROSSMAN2 said:


> Just got done making my target stabilizers today. They turned out great for me making them
> View attachment 5815529
> View attachment 5815545
> View attachment 5815553


Any info on how you made these?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dark_Abaddon (May 29, 2017)

I might have to try this later... 

does it rattle or make noise when you shoot?


----------



## NC BowDaddy (Jan 10, 2014)

Very cool!


----------



## De0827 (Nov 14, 2012)

What an awesome idea - thanks for sharing!


----------



## pojoe (Nov 4, 2014)

tagged


----------



## itzfry (Mar 26, 2016)

Very cool!


----------



## Johnpryor (Sep 19, 2017)

Nice


----------



## Wenty (Jan 6, 2012)

Update....

These stabs have been excellent... minus one thing. One of these the solder/bolt had a hair of play. Just a wiggle. Didn't affect anything really once tightened. But wanted a long term fix.

I've cut those ends off...replaced the copper caps and epoxied. 

The original target stabs have no been on my indoor rig for 2 seasons and going on my second year 3d with this shorter set. They've been great! Straight. Stiff. No vibes. 

I sold or gave away my other stabs except for the 8" stinger on my hunt bow. I'll never pay for another name brand stab. These work well.


----------



## icemanls2 (Mar 15, 2007)

Very nicely done! I have numerous stabs that cost way too much money. Those stabs you made I’m sure will rival any you could have bought. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Wenty (Jan 6, 2012)

icemanls2 said:


> Very nicely done! I have numerous stabs that cost way too much money. Those stabs you made I’m sure will rival any you could have bought.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks...and they do. 

I'll add....I tested out some of the temporary rubberized paint on my main 3d bar. Nice texture and is holding up nicely. No issue.


----------



## Trcrow25 (Oct 23, 2016)

Very cool


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BrandonB85 (Mar 17, 2019)

good idea. nicely executed


----------



## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Stabilizers are a practical tool to help you aim and shoot better and one of the easiest things an archer can build him/herself. Stabilizers have absolutely no mystical power to make you shoot better it is 100% physics. So please don't go spend 400.00 on a stabilizer set. The ingredients of an effective stabilizer are a very stiff shaft that is lightweight. This type of shaft allows you to get the mass stabilizing weight positioned away from the center of mass of the bow which eliminates the hurky jerky motions associated with a bow that has no stabilizer. 

Simply put this solution takes what would ordinarily be trash can fodder and turns it into the lightest stiffest rod available. Best solution I've seen on here! I recently made a stabilizer out of bamboo and it is also lightweight and stiff but I think the arrow solution is going to be your best bet! My props to the OP very elegant and easy to construct solution.


----------



## moonshinespaz1 (Mar 29, 2019)

Im am going to have to try this now.....got a few old carbon arrows i might be able to use. I tried making one out of rigid pvc. Doesnt look near as nice as this. Looks amazing.

Sent from my LG-M327 using Tapatalk


----------



## moonshinespaz1 (Mar 29, 2019)

Well here is my first attempt at doing it this way. Just got the stuff to get it test fitted for now. Just got to clean up the arrows a bit, get the epoxy and weights for the front.

Only 10" long. Leaving room for the weights to keep it under 12" for possible local 3d shoots i may do. If i like it i might build a longer one for indoors. Looks a hell of a lot better than my pvc one.


Had a little trouble drilling the holes in the direct center of the cap. Had to do it with my drill. Got pretty close on the weight side. Missed it by a mile on the riser side. Either try again with a new cap or try to make it work. Might try to make it work amd test fit the cap on the riser and see if it slides around at all after tightening a nut on the end.


Then to find weights. Any suggestions from anybody?????










Sent from my LG-M327 using Tapatalk


----------



## G.S. (Sep 3, 2011)

Good idea, will give it a try.


----------



## dexcraft1 (Apr 23, 2019)

Great work


----------



## jcw740 (Jun 13, 2018)

Thats awesome man, maybe some acetone to remove the logos for a cleaner look.


----------



## moonshinespaz1 (Mar 29, 2019)

Eh just shot them black for now....i honestly forgot about that and already had the rods glued together so i just shot some black on it. Got it epoxied now just got to wait for it to be completely cured tomorrow....hopefully this works well. Im not to confident in my epoxy job to be honest. But if i fail then its not super expensive to do another one. Just got to buy the caps. I got spares of the bolts and washers and such. 

Heres my riser side cap. I got a washer on the other side and tightened the ever living crap out of it. Its pretty snug and doesnt move at all.

Got my fingers crosses......12 more hours to go









Sent from my LG-M327 using Tapatalk


----------



## moonshinespaz1 (Mar 29, 2019)

So has anybody made their own side bar attachment??? Never used a side bar before but if im making my own stabs might as well give it a go right????

Sent from my LG-M327 using Tapatalk


----------



## leoncrandall74 (Apr 9, 2017)

moonshinespaz1 said:


> So has anybody made their own side bar attachment??? Never used a side bar before but if im making my own stabs might as well give it a go right????
> 
> Sent from my LG-M327 using Tapatalk


I've made a couple simple non adjustable ones. Easy and work good









Sent from my SM-G532M using Tapatalk


----------



## moonshinespaz1 (Mar 29, 2019)

leoncrandall74 said:


> I've made a couple simple non adjustable ones. Easy and work good
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Awesome......i like simple. Simple is good.

Sent from my LG-M327 using Tapatalk


----------



## leoncrandall74 (Apr 9, 2017)

moonshinespaz1 said:


> Awesome......i like simple. Simple is good.
> 
> Sent from my LG-M327 using Tapatalk


Actually with the bend it is somewhat adjustable. The more ya turn it out the further the back of the stabilizer goes from the bow. The g5 is probably 6" but the switchback had less bend and only goes maybe 4" 

Sent from my SM-G532M using Tapatalk


----------



## Corey_TN27 (Jan 9, 2018)

looks good


----------



## moonshinespaz1 (Mar 29, 2019)

Woke up this morning. Epoxy fully set. Looks good. Looks amazing on my camo Athens. Selling it tho and getting one of my friends Prime. Should look good on it since its solid black.











Sent from my LG-M327 using Tapatalk


----------



## Outdoors Matt (Jan 1, 2011)

nice


----------



## moonshinespaz1 (Mar 29, 2019)

Got my weights put on up front now

Just some metal and rubber washers for now.


7 metal washers with i think 5 rubber. Total length is about 10.5 to 11 so i still have a little play to keep it under 12 for any 3d shoots i may do in future. Weighs in at a total of 6 oz. Up front is about 2oz. 


To wrap it all up it cost me total of maybe $15 if that. I bought a few extra stuff just so i already have them for the next one. Either make one for my wife or make a longer one for target next. Might try using copper tubing next time just to see how that goes. Can get a 6 ft piece of 3/4" tubing for around $20 and have enough to make 3 or 4 stabs depending on lengths. Gonna have to learn to solder though but i been looking at vids and it doesnt seem all that difficult. All in all this was a fun little project. Cant wait to start the next project (after stabs i might build a PVC bow rack that functions as a paper tuner with a small table to hold small tools and stuff...already got the plans drawn up....very exciting)









Sent from my LG-M327 using Tapatalk


----------



## Gaspert (May 9, 2018)

This is a great idea. If only I had some spare 30" arrow shafts lying around.


----------



## SDMiller2468 (Jan 15, 2018)

This is an awesome idea and it looks good too.


----------



## Big Pard (Jul 23, 2018)

Very nice


----------



## roosclan (Oct 1, 2010)

Someone posted a link to this thread in a different DIY stabilizer thread, and I decided to give it a shot. I rummaged through the broken arrow bin at my archery club and managed to find 7 arrows that were close to the same length, hit my local Menard's, and went to town. This stab is a 30" competition bar for my 13y.o. son, and I can probably find enough scrap arrows to make a 12" back bar as well.

I didn't make them as flat as described in the OP, but drilled from the inside, letting the bit find the center. I opted for a 5/16”-24 nut on the inside of the distal cap since most of my stabilizer weights are already threaded for that. I used some Gorilla Glue epoxy on it, and experimented with some Loctite GO2 glue for the bolt on the bow-side cap. It is supposed to be incredibly strong, but also vibration resistant, so we'll see how well it holds up.

The finish on some of them were pretty ugly, even after using lacquer thinner, acetone, etc., on them, so I decided that a nice uniform black lacquer paint with a clear coat over everything would fit the bill. Not as nice as shiny carbon fiber, but better than what it would have been.

As an added step, I had some unused Limbsaver limb dampeners, so I chopped them up into tiny bits and loosely filled 3 of the 7 tubes with them for some added vibration dampening. If it helps, I might put some in my Shadow Stabilizer bar.









Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## RGV hunter (Sep 20, 2014)

roosclan said:


> Someone posted a link to this thread in a different DIY stabilizer thread, and I decided to give it a shot. I rummaged through the broken arrow bin at my archery club and managed to find 7 arrows that were close to the same length, hit my local Menard's, and went to town. This stab is a 30" competition bar for my 13y.o. son, and I can probably find enough scrap arrows to make a 12" back bar as well.
> 
> I didn't make them as flat as described in the OP, but drilled from the inside, letting the bit find the center. I opted for a 5/16”-24 nut on the inside of the distal cap since most of my stabilizer weights are already threaded for that. I used some Gorilla Glue epoxy on it, and experimented with some Loctite GO2 glue for the bolt on the bow-side cap. It is supposed to be incredibly strong, but also vibration resistant, so we'll see how well it holds up.
> 
> ...


If you get some 1inch heat shrink and heat it up around it I think it will make it more sturdy. I did that with my 13 inch DIY stab and it is practically indestructible. 

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## 01dstewart01 (Oct 26, 2018)

Great thread tagged 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## leoncrandall74 (Apr 9, 2017)

RGV hunter said:


> If you get some 1inch heat shrink and heat it up around it I think it will make it more sturdy. I did that with my 13 inch DIY stab and it is practically indestructible.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk


Did you heat shrink the entire thing or just pieces?

Sent from my SM-G532M using Tapatalk


----------



## RGV hunter (Sep 20, 2014)

leoncrandall74 said:


> Did you heat shrink the entire thing or just pieces?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G532M using Tapatalk


The entire thing. 

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected] (Aug 28, 2019)

using our imagine is great


----------



## RGV hunter (Sep 20, 2014)

This is one of them in red and black heat shrink. I have another one in all black.


----------



## mgwelder (May 4, 2014)

Just thinking about this great idea to reuse broke arrows. A lot of people have various broken ar rut ows. The stabilizer might be best made f ett om all the same arrows, not different ones.different arrows flex and can behave different, so to get the best results, use the same arrows!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


----------



## OhWell (Aug 21, 2013)

mgwelder said:


> Just thinking about this great idea to reuse broke arrows. A lot of people have various broken ar rut ows. The stabilizer might be best made f ett om all the same arrows, not different ones.different arrows flex and can behave different, so to get the best results, use the same arrows!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


There is even some stuff on Thingverse for printing the fittings for a stab.


----------



## DavidParkins (Sep 22, 2019)

Awesome idea. Turned out great!

Sent from my SM-N960U using http://bit.ly/Archery_Talk_app


----------



## two4one (Jul 21, 2015)

Nice ideas and links to supply locations


----------



## roosclan (Oct 1, 2010)

roosclan said:


> I used some Gorilla Glue epoxy on it, and *experimented with some Loctite GO2 glue for the bolt on the bow-side cap.* It is supposed to be incredibly strong, but also vibration resistant, so we'll see how well it holds up.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Well, the Loctite GO2 cement was a complete fail. I removed the cap with some heat to soften the glue, cleaned the cap out, and epoxied the bolt in with the Gorilla Epoxy. Now, it doesn't budge.


----------



## Kuerbis (Jul 10, 2018)

roosclan said:


> Well, the Loctite GO2 cement was a complete fail. I removed the cap with some heat to soften the glue, cleaned the cap out, and epoxied the bolt in with the Gorilla Epoxy. Now, it doesn't budge.


 Locktite GO2 stopped being my go to adhesive due to it being fussy about how clean the glued surfaces were. I will try Gorilla on my next project, Thanks


----------



## moonshinespaz1 (Mar 29, 2019)

I used epoxy from an autozone on my arrow stab to hold the arrows in the copper cap. Beent least 6 months or so and hasnt come loose in tge least bit. Its super solid. Just let it sit and cure fully.


Need to make a few changes to it though. Mainly how to get the weight up front. I left the insert in on the middle arrow and used a long 8-32 bolt. Using metal washers with some rubber washers in between as weight but thats alot of washers to get any significant weight up front. Probably be better if i made a longer stab. Wanted to keep it under 12". Brainstorming ideas of how to use copper caps as weights on the ends. Think that would look pretty sweet if i can figure something out.

Sent from my LG-M327 using Tapatalk


----------



## roosclan (Oct 1, 2010)

moonshinespaz1 said:


> I used epoxy from an autozone on my arrow stab to hold the arrows in the copper cap. Beent least 6 months or so and hasnt come loose in tge least bit. Its super solid. Just let it sit and cure fully.
> 
> 
> Need to make a few changes to it though. Mainly how to get the weight up front. I left the insert in on the middle arrow and used a long 8-32 bolt. Using metal washers with some rubber washers in between as weight but thats alot of washers to get any significant weight up front. Probably be better if i made a longer stab. Wanted to keep it under 12". Brainstorming ideas of how to use copper caps as weights on the ends. Think that would look pretty sweet if i can figure something out.
> ...


I epoxied a 5/16"-24 nut to the inside of the distal cap, so I can use standard stab weights.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## moonshinespaz1 (Mar 29, 2019)

roosclan said:


> I epoxied a 5/16"-24 nut to the inside of the distal cap, so I can use standard stab weights.
> 
> Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


I did that on a copper tubing stab i made

Sent from my LG-M327 using Tapatalk


----------



## roosclan (Oct 1, 2010)

moonshinespaz1 said:


> I used epoxy from an autozone on my arrow stab to hold the arrows in the copper cap. Beent least 6 months or so and hasnt come loose in tge least bit. Its super solid. Just let it sit and cure fully.
> 
> 
> Need to make a few changes to it though. Mainly how to get the weight up front. I left the insert in on the middle arrow and used a long 8-32 bolt. Using metal washers with some rubber washers in between as weight but thats alot of washers to get any significant weight up front. Probably be better if i made a longer stab. Wanted to keep it under 12". Brainstorming ideas of how to use copper caps as weights on the ends. Think that would look pretty sweet if i can figure something out.
> ...


3/8" socket (a big deep socket one) would be better than washers. Think 24mm deep socket with a hex head bolt through the bottom of it. You can fill it with lead sinkers and epoxy, or - if I do this - with some tungsten pinewood derby weights to really concentrate the weight.


----------



## RGV hunter (Sep 20, 2014)

roosclan said:


> Well, the Loctite GO2 cement was a complete fail. I removed the cap with some heat to soften the glue, cleaned the cap out, and epoxied the bolt in with the Gorilla Epoxy. Now, it doesn't budge.


Use epoxy that is used for wood working (not wood glue). I used it on my stabilizer and I have put it through some rough treatment and it is still tight as can be.


----------



## roosclan (Oct 1, 2010)

RGV hunter said:


> Use epoxy that is used for wood working (not wood glue). I used it on my stabilizer and I have put it through some rough treatment and it is still tight as can be.


I used Gorilla Glue 5-minute epoxy the second time around, and it's holding together so far with no movement at all. The bolt isn't 100% straight, but it's not moving, either.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## Hercdriver (Sep 22, 2006)

Great thread. I lost mine stab on my last hunt. Never recovered it. The $$ they ask for these is insane for the simple task they perform. I definitely will be building one. Thanks for the ideas!


----------



## speedload (Apr 26, 2011)

moonshinespaz1 said:


> I did that on a copper tubing stab i made
> 
> Sent from my LG-M327 using Tapatalk


I use aluminum deck railing from out local home center


----------



## Andrzejewskie (Nov 29, 2019)

Really cool def need to build one now


----------

