# Olympic recurve bow advice



## Z3R0 (Nov 6, 2014)

With a 28 inch draw you don't need a 27" riser. 25" and mediums would be the standard, middle of the road setup for you. If 27" or longer offered a significant advantage regardless of other factors then it would be the most common and standard size, but it isn't.

W&W does make aluminum bows too, not only carbon.

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## Hikari (May 15, 2021)

+1 for a 25" riser for a 28" draw length. It is usually barebow shooters that go to longer risers as they need more stability and can't use stabilizers. You will get more options at 25" as well.

The Exceed is nice, but as Z3R0 stated, W&W make aluminum risers. The W&W ATF-X is very well regarded. However, there are a lot of archers that like carbon risers (yes, you can find people that prefer metal, just like you can find those that like carbon, so who is right?). I might start with an intermediate riser to gain some experience. You can then have a reference with which to compare a high-end bow, metal or carbon. If you really like Olympic, the intermediate riser can give you a second/backup bow for tournaments or the choice to setup an indoor and outdoor bow. 

Have you shot an Olympic bow? Perhaps look at a local club to get a bit of experience and feedback. I actually drove two and a half hours to by my first bow. The time might be a good investment. However, call ahead to see what stock they have. Supplies have been a bit dodgy. 

BTW, you can also post this in the FITA/JOAD section of this forum. There are more Olympic archers there.


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## erose (Aug 12, 2014)

question is your draw length measured from the throat of your grip or the back (side away from you) of your riser, which is standard method?

The reason why I’m asking is that will change the answer drastically. 

If your are measuring from the throat, 29.5” draw and if that is the case 27” riser wouldn’t be a bad investment for you, albeit a 25” would work. 

If from the back of your riser, 25” is plenty.

On both go with long limbs. You could go with shorter ones, which will give you a little bit more speed, but you will sacrifice some forgiveness, because you will start stacking much quicker depending upon the curvature of your limbs.


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## Steve P (May 14, 2009)

Hikari gave you a pretty good tip when he suggested driving to Lancaster. Make a day of it, and not only call for inventory but see if you can't get one of the folks there to set aside some time to help you. They may even have a couple bows set up for you when you arrive. You'll be able to spend a few hours shooting different setups and leave with confidence your bow is what you want/need for now. I think in the end you'll be glad you did.

Steve


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Zeno3399 said:


> Hello I recently got into archery and currently have a samick sage takedown shooting 30 pounds. I've been Interested in conpeititive olympic target archery and looking to buy high end equipment. I've been doing research and have been interested in purchasing a hoyt exceed riser. I just don't know if I should get a 27 inch or 25 inch. Upon research it seems a heavier bow and longer bow provides more stability. I'm looking to be accurate as possible so I'm not sure if I would jave more of an advantage with a 27 over the 25. With long or medium limbs. Preferably long as it would provide more weight and stability. My draw length is 28 inches. I'm also open to other high end risers like win win but people have been saying it doesn't have good feed back compared to aluminum and most people apprantly don't use carbon. There is no shop near me for me to demo these bows unfortunately I'd have to drive 3 hours to a lancaster for any of that


Find a local archery range, where there are Olympic recurve archers.
Make friends.

Ask to test drive a carbon riser.
Ask to test drive a forged aluminum riser.

With a 28-inch draw length, you will not have ANY advantages with the 27-inch riser.
Not true, that "most" people do not use a carbon fiber riser. Again, less internet forum reading
and go to the local archery range, and make friends with folks actually SHOOTING Olympic recurve archery.

Your first Olympic riser will not be your last Olympic riser.
Try a 25-inch ILF riser (means uses interchangeable limbs) and some medium limbs.
Find someone using a 25-inch riser and LONG limbs, and see if you notice ANY difference.

Some risers are "DEAD" in the hand, near zero feedback.
Some risers are "LIVELY" in the hand, and have much more feedback.

WHEN you get to the point where you are using a finger sling,
the LIVELY risers will JUMP into the finger sling.

WHEN you get to the point where you are using a finger sling,
the "DEAD" risers will not budge, will sit "DEAD" in the bow hand, and will have near zero forwards jump.

The GRIP shape will have more effect on what you like and what you don't like.
The more popular risers will have CUSTOM grips available for installation.

When you get MUCH more advanced, then, you will find that the advanced shooters will add plumber's putty (epoxy or bondo) to custom mold the shape of the grip, with filing, with rasping, with sandpaper.

Since you are at the Samick Sage stage of shooting,
I would recommend THIS riser.






Gillo G2K 25in riser | Alternative - Archery Shop > Recurve > Risers-ILF


25 inch model. The G2 riser has morphed into the G2K. It features the same structure as the original G2 riser but comes supplied with a black plastic grip and a



www.alternativess.com





Gillo G2K riser.
25-inch model.
$298 USD.

You can shoot this barebow style...no sight, no stabilizers, and the handle accepts factory weights, to make the riser bottom heavy on purpose.

You can shoot this Olympic style, with a sight, with stabilizers.

Recommend medium ILF limbs for a reasonable string angle, at your 28-inch RECURVE draw length.
Whether you shoot barebow style
whether you shoot Olympic recurve style...

find a local recurve archery coach, and learn how to tune a plunger. Plunger helps a WHOLE bunch to get your accuracy to the next level.


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## Hikari (May 15, 2021)

All bows have feedback, just some have more than others. Also, Olympic recurve uses stabilizers and archers set those up to have more or less feedback. Feedback is just how energy dissipates in the bow, it is not some kind of magical communication system. Once you get used to the bow and have good form, that shot reaction, whether it is lively or dead, can give you information. 

The downside of not dissipating the energy of the bow, meaning the bow is lively, is that energy goes back into the archer that can result repetitive injury risk over the long term. That is one reason barebow rules were changed to allow dampers on the riser.

So, having more or less "feedback" is not a goal. It is a personal preference. Neither will result in better outcomes. as all kinds of risers are used successfully in top-level competition. 

My advise it to start gaining experience. Your first riser should not be your last. Buy something that is going to be solid and let you develop you form and skill *that riser can be your backup bow in competition when you get to that point). As you understand more about how you like to shoot OR, you can then customize your setup to perform the way you like.


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## able_archer_69 (9 mo ago)

Hello Zeno 3399

Do´nt spend to much money on your first bow. It is no accident, that there is a category "beginner bows". As a previous speaker mentioned, this will not be your last bow. There are plenty of good enough 25" risers for your current state of play. It will take a lot of arrows until the riser or the limbs are starting to hold you back. 

At this point, you will have gained experience and maybe developed an idea of what fits you the best.

OK, beginner bows are not sexy. But you ca´nt buy gold. Archery is an activity and not a business.


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## Ronaldscho (Sep 20, 2021)

I was wondering if wns risers run a higher brace height,than other ilf risers?


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## "TheBlindArcher" (Jan 27, 2015)

Ronaldscho said:


> I was wondering if wns risers run a higher brace height,than other ilf risers?



While the riser has some influence on brace height, it has more to do with the limb design on different riser lengths, and is usually recommended to go with the limb's recommendations over the riser's; but ultimately finding the best brace height will be done through your tuning and will be influenced by other factors like your form/release and arrows and such. 

I have limbs that, while from the same company, have different profiles and material builds and have different brace height recommendations, and those recommendations change based on riser lengths, not manufacturer.


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## "TheBlindArcher" (Jan 27, 2015)

Zeno3399 said:


> Hello I recently got into archery and currently have a samick sage takedown shooting 30 pounds. I've been Interested in conpeititive olympic target archery and looking to buy high end equipment. I've been doing research and have been interested in purchasing a hoyt exceed riser. I just don't know if I should get a 27 inch or 25 inch. Upon research it seems a heavier bow and longer bow provides more stability. I'm looking to be accurate as possible so I'm not sure if I would jave more of an advantage with a 27 over the 25. With long or medium limbs. Preferably long as it would provide more weight and stability. My draw length is 28 inches. I'm also open to other high end risers like win win but people have been saying it doesn't have good feed back compared to aluminum and most people apprantly don't use carbon. There is no shop near me for me to demo these bows unfortunately I'd have to drive 3 hours to a lancaster for any of that



Long riser and limbs, in theory, seems like the recipe for stability... Right up until your first event in the wind. Also, the length and extra mass bare bow shooters generally look for for stability is a compromise they face based on rules restrictions you don't face with Olympic recurve rules, and that much mass at the risers/limbs aren't the best solution for OR stability. The same overall mass moved out to your stabilizers will go much farther on stabilizing your sight picture than having all the mass at the riser. 

Also, trying to go with the long bow set up [long riser and limbs] at your draw length has the possibility/probability of robbing you of limb efficiency because you won't get enough flex of the limbs. Ideally, you want to get the string fully off the limb curve to get the most out of your limbs, which isn[t possible on longer bows with shorter draws. 

And finally, while having "the best" [the most expensive] equipment is cool, you would be much MUCH better off, and your career would advance much more quickly, with a moderate bow and limbs and quality lessons from a coach. Great archers can shoot great scores with moderate equipment; moderate shooter can't shoot great scores regardless of how great their equipment is...


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