# Can't adjust sight any further to the right!



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

J-san said:


> I am setting up a Barnsdale Classic X, using a Cartel Midas II launcher rest and a Cartel Activa compound sight with X-pert 4x scope. I paper tuned bareshafts to leave pretty clean bullet holes, but the problem I am having is that I cannot adjust my sight to the right any further to accommodate. It seems the scope is too large in diameter, or I might need an offset of some sort to mount the sight mount to on the riser. Any ideas? I am right handed and using a release, if that helps.
> 
> Thanks.


1) what draw weight?

2) what draw length setting?

3) arrow brand and model (what spine rating)?

4) what is the arrow tube length only? (just measure end of shaft to end of shaft...do NOT include nock length)

5) vanes or feathers? Brand? length?

6) glue in points or screw in field points? 

7) what weight of points?

8) why do you want to move the scope to the right?


----------



## J-san (Oct 12, 2004)

1.) 47#

2.) 28.5"

3.) Cartel Triple 600 spine

4.) 29" shaft length

5.) Flex Fletch 187 vanes

6.) glue-in point

7.) 100gr.

8.) I want to move the scope further right as my arrows are impacting to the right. I have the bareshafts tuned to put a relatively clean hole in a paper tune stand and wanted to move the sight to accommodate where the arrows impact. As is, I cannot move the windage any further to the right as the scope will run into the windage block. 

I can move the rest further to the left and get the point of impact to meet the point of aim, but then that would mess up the paper tune I was working to get.


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Classic X 36?
38?
40?
42?
43?
44?
45?
46?
47?


----------



## threetoe (May 13, 2011)

Form?
Vein contact?
Under Spined?
GoldTip recommends a .500 spine for 28.5 and 47lbs for a compound bow.


----------



## J-san (Oct 12, 2004)

Classic X 46" ATA. 


I don't think I'm under spined. According to the Cartel spine chart, I'm within the range with the Triple 600s:

http://www.archeryshop.com.au/g/1924/cartel-arrow-chart.html

I don't notice any vane contact with the riser. Form? I am new to compound shooting from years of olympic recurve, so I carry over a similar stance and form. Anchor very similar to the how I normally do except I now have a peep and release. I bought this bow to shoot with the compound guys in the winter leagues but may eventually use fingers at a later date.


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

J-san said:


> 1.) 47#
> 
> 2.) 28.5"
> 
> ...


ARROWS are too weak.
Now that I know you are using the Barnsdale 46...

Bump up the draw weight DOWN to 45 lbs
or LESS.

Shoot your bareshafts at 20 yards,
then 30 yards,
then 40 yards,
to get a better reading.

If you are using a release,
bareshaft results are not so much....stiff or weak reading...

but are more an indication of top cam lean angle at full draw

and
centershot arrow rest position.

Shooting a release is NOT the same as shooting fingers.

Try modified french tuning
to fine tune your arrow rest position
and fine tune your sight pin windage.

If you are running out of windage for your sight pins...

then,
your sight pin and arrow rest alignment are not correct.


DRAW LENGTH is probably also not correct,
so,
if the draw length is wrong for your body,
then..

then the alignment of your release hand to bow hand,
may be part of the reason for the sight pin windage running out of room.

Do you want to post up a picture of yourself,
aiming at a piece of tape on the target,
where the piece of tape is at YOUR shoulder height?


Do you know that Barnsdale does NOT measure draw length the same
as all other manufacturers in the US?

Dave Barnsdale sells his bows at TRUE draw length,
which is 1.75-inches LESS than AMO draw length.

So, a 29-inch HOYT will be the same draw length as a 27.25-inch BARNSDALE.


----------



## J-san (Oct 12, 2004)

Thanks, nuts&bolts. I'll give the modified french tuning a try later today. 

I have the rest set up for proper centershot with a release and that left the clean bullet hole in the paper. I don't assume a drop in draw weight or a stiffer shaft would really change that? So if there is a sight and rest misalignment, I would think the sight is what needs to be adjusted?


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

J-san said:


> Thanks, nuts&bolts. I'll give the modified french tuning a try later today.
> 
> I have the rest set up for proper centershot with a release and that left the clean bullet hole in the paper. I don't assume a drop in draw weight or a stiffer shaft would really change that? So if there is a sight and rest misalignment, I would think the sight is what needs to be adjusted?


If the draw length on the bow is too long for you (maybe)
then,
this would explain why the sight pin needs to be way off to one side.

If the sight pin and the arrow rest are in the "correct position)...

you SHOULD be able to get arrow groups CENTERED around the bullseye
at ALL distances...20 yards and 60 yards.

If the arrow groups are NOT centered around the bullseye
at short and LONG distances...
then,
clean arrow flight at one distance
means not much.

So,
modified french tuning 
will help you get the sight pin at the correct windage (left to right position)
and
will help you get the arrow rest position in the correct centershot position (left to right adjustment).

Draw a vertical line on a piece of paper.
Pin the piece of paper to a target at YOUR shoulder height.

Fire your arrow at the vertical line on the piece of paper.
You want the arrow hole DEAD CENTER on the vertical line.

MOVE the sight pin windage (left or right)
until you can get the arrow hole on top of the vertical line.

Set your arrow rest centershot so the arrow is running STRAIGHT on top of your front stabilizer.
Set your SCOPE CENTERED over your arrow...in your case...move the scope housing LEFT away from the riser.

This will be your starting point.

Then,
fine tune the sight pin windage setting
when shooting at only 9 FEET.










I was shooting at the right edge of the piece of duct tape.
You want 50% of the arrow hole on the left of the line
and you want 50% of the arrow hole on the right of the line.

TWEAK the scope housing position in mm increments,
shooting at only 9 FEET.


Now,
step back to say 20 yards or 30 yards (at the practice range)
and shoot arrow groups,
and MOVE the arrow rest,
until the group of arrows is CENTERED on the bullseye.

If you have the room at the practice range,
go out to 60 yards,
and tweak the arrow rest in sub-millimeter centershot adjustments,
to get your arrow groups CENTERED around the bullseye.


Go back to 9 feet,
and shoot that vertical line,
and TWEAK the sight/scope housing again,
in sub-millimeter adjustments.

When the scope housing position,
allows you to split the line perfectly,
at only 9 FEET....

then,
go back to 60 yards,
and tweak the ARROW REST,
to fine tune arrow rest centershot,
so that the arrow groups are CENTERED around the bullseye.


----------



## J-san (Oct 12, 2004)

Thank you very much for the informative post. I will definitely give it a try once I get back later today after Christmas dinner. 

I believe the draw length is correct for me. It feels pretty comfortable and I was aware of the discrepancy between the true length and AMO length. I did try shooting at 20 yards at the range and was getting some decent groups, but to the right of the X by a couple inches. This was shot with my sight set out to the full 9" extension and the windage as far right as I could go with the scope mounted. I could go further right if I switched back to the simple sight pin. My arrow is aligned right in line with the front long rod and that seems to be a good centershot according to what I had on paper. I'm wondering if I should have gotten a smaller scope...


----------



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

J-san said:


> I did try shooting at 20 yards at the range and was getting some decent groups, but to the *right of the X by a couple inches*.


MOVE your arrow rest to the left.


----------



## bigbassone (Jan 13, 2010)

if your confident with your setup which it sounds like you are then get an off set bracket for the sight. some of the larger scopes require this for the reason u are asking about. most of the sights have some sort of off set adjustment built in to the sight not sure if yours does or not. its sounds to me like you know what you are doing so unless there is a problem with the way you or the bow is shooting just off set the sight and shoot straight.


----------



## J-san (Oct 12, 2004)

Ok. Did the modified french tuning method and set my centershot properly. I think the sight itself may be the problem combined with the large scope. To line up the sight pin over the front long rod, I had to put the windage block nearly to its limit to the right. I made a spacer and placed it between the riser and sight mounting block and that seemed to alleviate the issue. Not sure if higher end sights would allow for a greater windage adjustment, but this sight certainly did not seem to accommodate scopes very well. Shot at 20 and 30 yards and kept my shots at point of aim. Thanks for the helpful posts!


----------



## BOW BUM (Jul 31, 2009)

I think you need a spacer. I swithed sights this year. Bow is set up correctly. Th riser config/sight combination would not let me move my sight to the right. They make spacer blocks for just such situations. 

I bet your setup right and this is the prob.

Good luck!

B


----------



## nag (Jun 13, 2007)

Your arrows are too weak....
either reduce poundage;
try a lighter point,
shorten arrow ,
or go up to a 500.


----------

