# Arrow recommendations for 55# 60" AMO td recurve



## Thefett (Apr 6, 2013)

Just getting into trad archery again. Looking for a starting place to start tuning. Arrow spine, length and head weight reccomendations. Any advice will help


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## Bowmania (Jan 3, 2003)

Well, for starters what's your draw length and how close to center is your bow cut? 

Bowmania


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## Thefett (Apr 6, 2013)

Its a samick SHT. I know its cut past center but not sure how much. Draw length is 28"


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## m60gunner (Mar 15, 2003)

GT Trads, 500 spine. You need to decide how much you want the finished arrow to weight. That will help with the other questions you have.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

Realistically that bow is WAAAAAAAY too heavy to learn with so arrow selection for it is a premature decision.


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## Thefett (Apr 6, 2013)

I have a 45# darton ranger as well. As for desired arrow weight, i was looking for advice there too. I want a hunting set up so i know heavy is better. I have some easton carbon after maths 400spines with 4" feathers that are cut to about 30". I have 125 grains on the tip. I dont know the final weight. What is the rule of thumb for hunting arrow weight with recurves?


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## lunger 66 (Feb 16, 2017)

I was trying to learn on a 42lb bow about 3 months ago, and ran to town for a 35lb bow just so I could keep practicing the right way, and save my left shoulder. Now that I have proper technique, and accuracy, I can draw that 42lb bow easily. Matter of fact, I can shoot a 45lb longbow at length, with no trouble. None of it would have been possible without buying that 35lb bow. Anyway, I shoot 600 spine arrows from 35lbs, to 42lbs by adjusting the tip weight. My draw is 27.5 inches. Lunger Hoping you'll listen to the folks on this forum. They've really helped me along, and they will help you, if you'll be open minded, and let them.


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## 4 Fletch (Jan 25, 2014)

I have a 60" 55# longbow 30.5" DL and and shoot full length 340 spine 125gr points. 



m60gunner said:


> GT Trads, 500 spine. You need to decide how much you want the finished arrow to weight. That will help with the other questions you have.


According to the GT chart, only with 27" arrows and 100gr points. Any longer shaft or heavier point and it's 400 spine. 



grantmac said:


> Realistically that bow is WAAAAAAAY too heavy to learn with so arrow selection for it is a premature decision.


:set1_signs009:


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

As far as arrow weight, most hunter like arrows in the 9-12 grains per pound of draw weight (45# bow, 450 gr. arrow, comes to 10 gpp). Lighter arrows fly slightly faster and flatter, but the bow is louder. Opposite for heavier. I like 10-11 gpp for my gear., I don't notice much difference in trajectory but definitely notice the quieter bow I get with heavier arrows.

As far as what arrows to start with, try this calculator...http://www.3riversarchery.com/dynamic-spine-arrow-calculator-from-3rivers-archery.html

With accurate inputs it should get you close, close as in a tunable arrow. Once you learn how to shoot you will want to tune your setup using this process...http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html

Everybody is different so you will get a bunch of recommendations, keep in mind what works for one poster won't necessarily work for you. Depending on a lot of variables my guess is you will need an arrow setup build around a .400 or .340 static spine.


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## Bill 2311 (Jun 24, 2005)

Thefett said:


> I have a 45# darton ranger as well. As for desired arrow weight, i was looking for advice there too. I want a hunting set up so i know heavy is better. I have some easton carbon after maths 400spines with 4" feathers that are cut to about 30". I have 125 grains on the tip. I dont know the final weight. What is the rule of thumb for hunting arrow weight with recurves?


8-10 grains per # of draw weight is about average, with many going heavier.
Your arrows will run about 455 grains.
I think they will be too heavy spined. I shoot a 29" .400 Aftermath with 125 tip from a centershot Covert Hunter. My bow is producing a fair amount of force over yours, so I suspect you will need a real heavy tip or .500
Tips are cheap, so buy some in 175 or even heavier to try


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## Bill 2311 (Jun 24, 2005)

Your best bet is to run your numbers on Stu Miller's latest spine calculator to get you close.


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## Thefett (Apr 6, 2013)

So i did the calculator and it said my arrows were right on point with where i should be. However, i think they are a little light. The carbon aftermaths are reduced diameter and pretty light at 8.8gpi. That being said, is reduced diameter good to shoot with a recurve? My bow is cut .1875 past center same as the samick sage. Thanks for all the input.


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## Thefett (Apr 6, 2013)

Nvm. I had wrong arrow weight in. My arrows are too stiff. I will try some heavier heads.


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

I'd buy three of these test point kits...http://www.3riversarchery.com/screw-in-field-point-test-kit-5-16.html

That will give you half a dozen points in several weights. Try the tuning process in the link I posted above, shooting three bare and three fletched shafts. Start close, 12-25 yards and work back to at least 20, although 25-30 yards is even better. The goal is both bare shaft and fletched shafts grouping together, ideally with the bare shafts in the target at the same angle as fletched (angle is less important than location). Any questions, post up, lots of people will be willing to help.

I'd get the best tune you can with the arrows you have before you buy anything new. At least you will have a better idea of what to buy, and if you indeed find a higher point weight is necessary you could end up with an arrow that is a little heavier, although where you are now with total weight isn't necessarily bad.

Another reason to hold off in buying new shafts is if you are coming back from a layoff your form may change over the next few weeks as you get back in the swing of things. A 55# bow can be a beast, be careful of developing bad habits.


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## Thefett (Apr 6, 2013)

Would paper tuning be of any help? There is a scheels nearby that i can probably paper tune for free at.


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

Thefett said:


> Would paper tuning be of any help? There is a scheels nearby that i can probably paper tune for free at.


In my opinion paper tuning is a waste of time, especially with a stickbow. I don't even do it with a compound any more. Others may disagree but I'd skip it and go right to shooting bare shafts.

You don't really need to worry about tuning at all right now, just work on your form and accuracy for a few weeks. There's an old saying that you can only tune as well as you can shoot.


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## Thefett (Apr 6, 2013)

I was looking to get a fast flught string to replace my current dacron. Do you know any affordable ones? Vaportrail makes recurve strings and i really liked it on my compound. But other than that im clueless. Would a fast flight help with the arrow stiffness? I fugure more wnetgy would weaken the spine.


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## m60gunner (Mar 15, 2003)

Do not believe those charts especially the Easton chart. They are overspined in most cases. You can use the calculator but it is a starting point only. By fudging the figures you can get almost any arrow to work. I know as I supposedly got 2419 to fly from a 60# bow. By the way they did not fly worth a darn.
Someone already mentioned test kits for points, I suggest an arrow test kit as well. Your at 55#, shaft selection could go both ways, 35-55 or 55/75. Depends on you and if your drawing a real 28" every time. Yes, it costs a few bucks to get started but better than selling off arrows at half price because they do not work.


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## Thefett (Apr 6, 2013)

Il definitely get some heavier points. Thanks for advice. Anyone know good string makers on here?


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## sjb3 (Mar 5, 2003)

ok. not to hijack this thread but a question on the spine
calculator. Is cut past center riser + or minus? IE..... .1875 or -.1875.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Kind of a dumb question, but are you shooting consistently enough to tune? If not, it'll just drive you nuts. 

If you are, have at it, but you'll figure out what you need and nobody can tell you, calculator or not. They're just rough starting points. I'd suggest buying single shafts from Lancaster, and trying different full length combinations of shafts and points, and then when you find your happy place, order more of the same.

If not, just shoot whatever is close with a temporary half dozen arrows, and figure it out later.


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## Bill 2311 (Jun 24, 2005)

I bare shaft with a bright nock and watch the nock flight as an indicator of arrow flight.


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## ArcheryArt (Dec 15, 2015)

Sjb3:
With the calculator on 3rivers, past center is +. Eg. 0 is cut to center, +.125 is 1/8" past center.

To the Op:
Everyone has given great advice.
As for me, I try to set up my arrows the same for hunting.
By that I mean I use the same weight fieldpoint as broadhead.
My draw length is bang on 28" unless I'm lazy.
My current setups:
55#@28" Tomahawk Limited Edition cut to center uses 400 spine gt trads with 200 up front and 50 grain insert. 29.5" long with 7" wraps 4×4" feathers.


50#@28" Hoyt Buffalo (60" AMO) cut 1/8" past center uses 500 spine beman centershots with 150 up front and 50 grain insert. 29.5" long with 7" wraps 3×4" feathers.

47#@28" Jack Kempf Little Grizzly (50" AMO) cut 3/16" past center uses 400 spine gt trads with 200 up front and 13 grain insert. 29.5" long with 7" wraps 3×4" feathers.


50#@28" Jack Kempf Falcon Recurve (58" AMO) cut 3/16" past center uses 500 spine gt trads with 200up front and 50 grain insert. 29.5" long with 7" wraps 3×4" feathers.


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## ArcheryArt (Dec 15, 2015)

If anyone notices with the Kempf bows, I shoot a stiffer spine with the lighter poundage bow because of arrow clearance issues. The shelf on the little grizzly is narrow and I have no issues at all. However with the falcon, I had some tuning issues getting arrow deflection with being cut so far past center and a wider shelf (Yes I've played with nock height). It shoots 500 and 400 spine arrows at same length (heavier point on the 400s) just fine. What I had to do was play with the dynamic spine as well as shelf padding to get clearance.

I hope I wasn't too confusing and hope I helped a bit.

As always, your setup will be your setup, not anyone else's.

Have fun!

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## sjb3 (Mar 5, 2003)

Thank you for the info.


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