# Which Vanes?



## TN ARCHER (Jan 31, 2007)

Just wanting to see what everyone is using for field. I have some 1.5 (mini HP) Vanetec's on my ACC's. Anyone else use these?


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

If it's not a Flex Fletch....it won't be on any of my arrows. 

187 for field :wink:


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## mdbowhunter (Oct 22, 2002)

Brown Hornet said:


> If it's not a Flex Fletch....it won't be on any of my arrows.
> 
> 187 for field :wink:


Ditto. Been using Flex Fletch for 20+ years and I have no desire to switch.


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## TN ARCHER (Jan 31, 2007)

Okay. What is so special about these vanes? I have never used them so give me some insite. I am willing to try new things.


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## pragmatic_lee (Jan 19, 2008)

TN ARCHER said:


> Okay. What is so special about these vanes? I have never used them so give me some insite. I am willing to try new things.


I too am a FlexFletch fan (175). I've had them pass through both rubber and carpet targets and the vanes were fine. They're TUFF!


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## Jbird (May 21, 2002)

*Vanes for Field*

The Flex Fletch 187's are great. So are the Vane Tec 1.75 Mini Fitas. I have field shafts fletched with both and find their performance and durability similar. The arrows I am currently shooting have 1.75 Mini Fitas on them. You can't go wrong either way. The little 2.0 shield cut vane from Easton and AAE are also reported to be very good. I am about to fletch a new dozen arrows and I plan to use the Mini Fitas. Real or imagined they just seem to group a little tighter out of my setup.
They also require less prep to adhere properly than the Flex Fletch.
Jbird


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## Jbird (May 21, 2002)

*After Thought*

I might also mention that last year I refletched my wife's 880 Navigators with the 1.5" X-Vanes (little shield cut) and she shot them all year in some really tight grouping field shoots and finished the year with zero damage to any of the vanes. They look just like they did the day I fletched them. They appear to be a great grouping arrows because when we were getting our marks she was getting fairly consistant 4" groups at 70 yards. They are rubbery feeling and seem less prone to damage than any of the above mentioned vanes. The FF 187's and 1.75 Mini Fitas are very tough but more subject to nicks in the vanes.
Jbird


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## Unclegus (May 27, 2003)

Another vote from the peanut gallery for Flex Fletch. All of us elitist field shooters use them..... Best place pricewise to buy them is ioarchery.com


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## X Hunter (Jan 11, 2007)

I like t FF 187's tuff and the profile isnt to high so less wind drift


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## NEVADAPRO (Jul 5, 2007)

Exactly!!! 



Brown Hornet said:


> If it's not a Flex Fletch....it won't be on any of my arrows.
> 
> 187 for field :wink:


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## Indianbullet (Jan 18, 2003)

Ditto on the FF 2" for me they have proven to be one durable vane.
I have a bunch of 1 3/4 purple id like to get rid of for some green ones


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## TN ARCHER (Jan 31, 2007)

Thanks for all the replies. I borrowed some Vanetec 1.8" S.S. from a friend to try. I may also try some of these other vanes that have been mentioned.
Thanks again.


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## mdbowhunter (Oct 22, 2002)

TN ARCHER said:


> Okay. What is so special about these vanes? I have never used them so give me some insite. I am willing to try new things.


Flex Fletch vanes takes tons of abuse. They recover quickly from deep bale shots and they won't crinkle after powder testing. The plastic compound has excellent memory and strength. Best I've ever seen...or used.


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## NEVADAPRO (Jul 5, 2007)

I shot several all the way through the animal and bale at Redding this year and you couldn't even tell!! 



mdbowhunter said:


> Flex Fletch vanes takes tons of abuse. They recover quickly from deep bale shots and they won't crinkle after powder testing. The plastic compound has excellent memory and strength. Best I've ever seen...or used.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

mdbowhunter said:


> Flex Fletch vanes takes tons of abuse. They recover quickly from deep bale shots and they won't crinkle after powder testing. The plastic compound has excellent memory and strength. Best I've ever seen...or used.


Exactly....the bales at Belvoir suck.ukey: If I shoot my Nanos there I have to push at least one arrow back through or pull it out the back on almost every target. The vanes take a lickin' and keep on tickin' :wink:

Even with rips and chunks missing they still hit with the other arrows....and they are the only vanes I have ever shot that do that. Summer before last I took a chunk out of a vane on the last target...stupid 15 ydr :doh: Nino and I decided to go over and shoot 90m after the round that arrow with the chunk missing hit the 10 EVERY TIME. I shot that arrow the rest of the summer and it NEVER landed outside the 5 ring :wink:


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## TN ARCHER (Jan 31, 2007)

Sounds like I could expect some abuse on my vanes when I shoot field huh?
Unlike 3D where you rarely get a pass through. I think I will order some Flex Fletch vanes to try.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

TN ARCHER said:


> Sounds like I could expect some abuse on my vanes when I shoot field huh?
> Unlike 3D where you rarely get a pass through. I think I will order some Flex Fletch vanes to try.


You don't try Flex Fletch....you switch to them :wink:


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## TN ARCHER (Jan 31, 2007)

Brown Hornet said:


> You don't try Flex Fletch....you switch to them :wink:


Gotcha!
Hey before this thread dies out . What is the best method to fletch these Flex Fletch vanes ? Straight or with an offset. I will most likely get the 187. They are the shield cut ones right?


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## Nino (Jul 9, 2002)

187's Offset or helical as much as you can get and still keep them seated good on both ends.


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## archerpap (Apr 24, 2006)

Last year I shot the Easton 2" shielded vanes, but have switched to FF187 this year. Both are great vanes.


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## archerpap (Apr 24, 2006)

NEVADAPRO said:


> I shot several all the way through the animal and bale at Redding this year and you couldn't even tell!!


Dang Todd.....Blasting through the butts at Vegas and the animals at Redding...That Martin must be an animal to shoot...LOL


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## TN ARCHER (Jan 31, 2007)

Okay, one more question. What glue are you guys using on these FF vanes?

I have read that the vanes have to be prepared. 
I also have read that the Flex bond is pretty good and that the Fast Fletch allows you to fletch without cleaning the vanes.
Personally I use Loctite brand Super Glue Gel for all vanes and feathers. Cheap and holds great. I will not spend any more of my money on Goat Tuff! I have had two bottles and I never could get anything to hold with it! I even gave the rest of what I had to friends who use it and they couldn't get it to work.


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## TN ARCHER (Jan 31, 2007)

Nino said:


> 187's Offset or helical as much as you can get and still keep them seated good on both ends.


Hey, my brother lives in Alexandria VA.


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## JayMc (Jan 4, 2005)

I'll give you two FF187 vanes to try 






Seriously, I'll spot you a few next time I see you. I use the Pine Ridge glue on mine...zero problems so far.


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## Unclegus (May 27, 2003)

FF offers some fletching tips on their website. Not cleaning the foot of the vane isn't one of them. The mold release they use is harder than Chinese arithmetic to get off. (at least it is for me) We clean the shafts and the bases with Oatey's PVC glue cleaner and use beyond bond for glue. You can't cut them off......I've also had success with the loctite superglue in the little bottle that has a brush in it. It makes for a really neat job.....


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## TN ARCHER (Jan 31, 2007)

JayMc said:


> I'll give you two FF187 vanes to try
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks JayMc. When we going shooting?


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

Unclegus said:


> FF offers some fletching tips on their website. Not cleaning the foot of the vane isn't one of them. The mold release they use is harder than Chinese arithmetic to get off. (at least it is for me) We clean the shafts and the bases with Oatey's PVC glue cleaner and use beyond bond for glue. You can't cut them off......I've also had success with the loctite superglue in the little bottle that has a brush in it. It makes for a really neat job.....


I don't get why guys have trouble....actually I know why they do....most use WAY too much glue. :wink:

I use acetone....91% iso alcohol....or this stuff my cousin got for removing tar and bugs from his car from Auto Zone the vanes and the shafts seem to melt together when I used that stuff . That stuff is the best :thumb:

But I am out of Acetone which is what I usually use...so the arrows I just fletched I used alcohol....not JD :wink: I knocked a vane off yesterday....but the wrap tore under the vane the vane is still glued to the wrap. 

I also don't like using the "super glues". I only use Flex Bond or Fletch Tite Platinum when I am out of Flex Bond.... Keep em' in the fridge :wink:


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

TN ARCHER said:


> Hey, my brother lives in Alexandria VA.


I am not your brother


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## TN ARCHER (Jan 31, 2007)

Keep what in the fridge?


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

My glue....it last forever that way. Daniel at Flex Fletch has a tube of Flex Bond that he keeps in the fridge and only uses it once in a blue moon. I think he has had that tube for around 5-10 years


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## TN ARCHER (Jan 31, 2007)

Holy s***! :mg: I rarely get to use all my glue before it thickens up or dries up.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

Put it in the fridge....if you go into my "butter draw" in my fridge you won't find butter


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## Indianbullet (Jan 18, 2003)

Brown Hornet said:


> Put it in the fridge....if you go into my "butter draw" in my fridge you won't find butter


hmmm heck of an idea


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## Unclegus (May 27, 2003)

If you'll take the time ro read the labels on the fletching glue tubes, a lot of them say to refrigerate after opeing..


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## Short Draw (Dec 6, 2003)

I am using Bohning's 1.5" Shield cut X vane and am very happy with them.


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## Indianbullet (Jan 18, 2003)

Unclegus said:


> If you'll take the time ro read the labels on the fletching glue tubes, a lot of them say to refrigerate after opeing..


Hmm funny you say that after reading on my fletch tight that I have always used it says not recommended for carbon/graphite shafts but has worked fine sence carbons first came out and no mention of putting it in the refer. but im going to try that and see if it keeps longer.

I have a bag of it i bought at Wally World about 6yrs ago as it was marked down to a dollar a tube i bought all they had. hell has-mat was costing me $12 shipping if i bought 1 tube or 50.


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## bowhnter7 (Dec 6, 2004)

Brown Hornet said:


> You don't try Flex Fletch....you switch to them :wink:


Or you try something else and end up back with them.:wink:


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## TN ARCHER (Jan 31, 2007)

Ordered some 187's this morning and some Flex Bond.


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## rock monkey (Dec 28, 2002)

yall just gotta keep makin things harder than they are.

quit worryin about the end of the universe.


http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/super-glue.html


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## Daniel Grundman (Feb 10, 2005)

*Fridge*



Brown Hornet said:


> Put it in the fridge....if you go into my "butter draw" in my fridge you won't find butter


Thanks for the boost Brown Hornet. I don't remember mentioning anything about putting the Flex-Bond in the fridge. But If I did, I can tell you this, It can't hurt. 
Actually the tube of Flex-Bond referred to is from May of 1984. These pictures were taken in late 2007. This tube has never been in the fridge. 
Now to be fair, back in those days we were still able to use lead tubes which may have something to do with the glue's longevity.

















Do you want to make your Goat Tuff or Fast Fletch or any other cyanoacrylate adhesive last for a long long time? 
Try this: 
Store it in an airtight container, IE. mayo jar or similar. Along with it put in some silica gel packs. You know, the little packs that say do not eat on them. They always seem to arrive packed with your new electronic devices.








Silica gel is a desiccant and absorbs moisture, moisture is the enemy of super glue. If you promptly return the glue to this container after use your glue will last a very long time. I have a bottle of Fast Fletch that has been stored in this fashion for 2 1/2 years and the adhesive has not hardened or gelled. Silica gel can be recharged, check wikipedia for how to do this. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silica_gel Scroll down to properties.


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## blueglide1 (Jun 29, 2006)

2.3 Duravanes,fletchtite Platinum. Good combo.Havent lost any yet.


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## kidnutso (Aug 29, 2004)

Love the Flex Fletch Vanes. But I have lost a couple of vanes using Flex Bond. Maybe it's something I'm doing, but I have much better luck using the "super glues". 

I guess it's all in what you find that works for you.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

kidnutso said:


> Love the Flex Fletch Vanes. But I have lost a couple of vanes using Flex Bond. Maybe it's something I'm doing, but I have much better luck using the "super glues".
> 
> I guess it's all in what you find that works for you.


It is something you are doing... Too much glue :wink:

Cover the base of the vane...then dab it on a clean sheet of paper ONCE and place on the arrow. The paper will remove any "extra" glue. Then put a drop on the front and rear of the base and let em dry. Then shoot :thumb:

I can't tell you how many arrows I have had bury in my target at home or in a bale on a course....I still haven't lost a vane. I think it happen at least 15 times this weekend during the two field rounds I shot.


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## kidnutso (Aug 29, 2004)

Brown Hornet said:


> It is something you are doing... Too much glue :wink:
> 
> Cover the base of the vane...then dab it on a clean sheet of paper ONCE and place on the arrow. The paper will remove any "extra" glue. Then put a drop on the front and rear of the base and let em dry. Then shoot :thumb:
> 
> I can't tell you how many arrows I have had bury in my target at home or in a bale on a course....I still haven't lost a vane. I think it happen at least 15 times this weekend during the two field rounds I shot.


Well, I hadn't tried using a clean sheet of paper to remove excess glue. I've got six more coming in for my state shoot this weekend and the nationals. Maybe I'll give it another try.


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## TN ARCHER (Jan 31, 2007)

I didn't have much luck with the Flex Bond. I had some vanes come off in mid flight! Any other tricks for using Flex Bond?


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## Unclegus (May 27, 2003)

First thing I'd do is see if the glue was stuck to the shaft or the vane. That will tell you what you're not getting clean.


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## Jbird (May 21, 2002)

*Flex Bond*

I use Flex Bond only. It is the only glue I have found that stays stuck. I always fletch on wraps and never directly to a carbon shaft. If the vanes come with treated bases I wipe it off good with acetone. Very important...
if you clean the bases with acetone be sure to let them air dry for 30 minutes
before you start fletching. If you wipe the bases and start fletching without
giving them a chance to dry it will compromise the bond.
Jbird


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## TN ARCHER (Jan 31, 2007)

Unclegus said:


> First thing I'd do is see if the glue was stuck to the shaft or the vane. That will tell you what you're not getting clean.


Glue is sticking to the vane and not the shaft. I clean all previous glue residue off with a razor blade and then denatured alcohol. What am I doing wrong? 

I don't have any problems with Super Glue Gel.


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## Patriot VFT (Sep 18, 2005)

*Dont laugh...*

I know some of you may think that Im crazy, but I have been using the mini blazer vanes on my field arrows for quite some time now. Granted, they get torn up when another arrow pierces the vane or tears it, but shooting deep into the target butt has not damaged my vanes at all other than wrinkeling them up slightly. I just use a hair dryer to get them straightened back out. 

As for getting them to stick, some folks do not seem to have good luck getting blazers to stick on carbon shafts. However, I started using Saunders NPV arrow glue and my no stick worries are over. This stuff dries alot like Bohning Platinum or fletch tite in reference to a (flexible bond) but has the quickest drying time of any glue except for some of the cyanoacrylate glues (super glues). Dont get me wrong, I still wait at least 6 hours before shooting them just in case, Im just talking about clamp time per vane. With wraps, the clamp time is about 30 seconds and about 60-80 seconds on a bare shaft. I scrape all residue off with a razor blade and then wipe the shafts down with PVC cleaner (Acetone) that you can pick up at lowes in the plumbing department. I let them dry and then make dang sure I do not touch the ends I will be fletching. I also make sure I do not touch the base of the vane. I have never had a problem with this method and I have fletched everything from Gold Tips to Easton X7s including PSE X-Weaves.

My league partner uses the flex-fletch vanes and Bohning Platinum on his field arrows and he likes them alot. I have seen how much memory they have and even though they wrinkle easily, they come back shot after shot. I do not have anything against them what so ever, I just have not switched over to them because I have not had any trouble with the blazers as of yet. 

I just dont know what the advantage would be to switch I suppose.


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## south-paaw (Jul 3, 2006)

TN ARCHER said:


> Glue is sticking to the vane and not the shaft. I clean all previous glue residue off with a razor blade and then *denatured alcohol*. What am I doing wrong?
> 
> I don't have any problems with Super Glue Gel.


try different flavor...:smile:.... 97% Isopropyl...


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

south-paaw said:


> try different flavor...:smile:.... 97% Isopropyl...


Yep....the other one is the wrong one. :doh:

Acetone is great also.....


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## Ode1891 (Aug 30, 2006)

*they stick doing it this way*



TN ARCHER said:


> I didn't have much luck with the Flex Bond. I had some vanes come off in mid flight! Any other tricks for using Flex Bond?


This is what works for me. In my opinion, those super glues are too brittle, and they are horrible to get off carbon shafts.

Scrub the shafts with hot water and Comet and rinse them with hot water letting them air dry.

Put the vane in a clamp. Using a clean (not rinsed with softner or using dryer sheets) piece of old T-shirt material, wipe the base of the vane with Acetone _wipe it HARD_ until some of the color comes off. Buy Acetone at Home Depot or Lowes in the paint section.

Apply the glue sparingly and leave the clamp alone for at least 30 minutes. After all 3 vanes are on, leave them sit for a day before shooting.

They will stick on any carbon or aluminum shafts.


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## DHawk2 (Feb 18, 2007)

"Apply the glue sparingly and leave the clamp alone for at least 30 minutes. After all 3 vanes are on, leave them sit for a day before shooting."

"They will stick on any carbon or aluminum shafts."

At this rate it will take an hour and a half to fletch 1 arrow...to long for me.
I always clean with alcohol then acetone. I use the brush on crazy glue and leave it in the clamp for about 30 seconds before rotating to the next vane. Never had any problem with the vanes coming off of my ACC's. I actually have to scrape them pretty good when changing vanes due to tears or wrinkles.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

DHawk2 said:


> "Apply the glue sparingly and leave the clamp alone for at least 30 minutes. After all 3 vanes are on, leave them sit for a day before shooting."
> 
> "They will stick on any carbon or aluminum shafts."
> 
> ...



30 mins....good lord I would have NEVER finished the 18 arrows I did a few weeks ago :chortle:


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## Patriot VFT (Sep 18, 2005)

*Clamp time and fletching...*

30 minute clamp time is way too long in my opinion. If your glue takes that long to set up well enough to put another vane on, your using the wrong glue and you should know that there are some better ones out there. 

I dont admit stuff like this very often because its embarrasing, but in this case, I feel like you guys should know....so get ready to laugh!

Last week, I had to work late on the friday night before I went to the State Field Championship (July 10th). I was trying my best to get all my stuff together and was running out of time. I knew It was a 4 hour ride to the shoot and I had to stop and pick a friend up which meant I had to be at his house by 5:00am otherwise we would be late. Not to mention run through somewhere and get a bite to eat on the way. All to go fling arrows...Are we crazy or what?

Little did I know, my son wanted to go to a community function in downtown Corinth that night (Slug Burger Festival) and was not going to take no for an answer  

Well...:embara: shortly before we left I figured I would take a few minutes and inspect all my field arrows so that they were ready to go the next morning. All 16 of em :mg: I know, but I like to be prepared. Anywho, I noticed that they were pretty dingy from all of the abuse I have been putting them through lately. The shafts had cardboard streaks all stuck to them that looked like it was burnt on and would not scrape off with my fingernail, some of the nocks had been hit a couple of times and the inserts were a little dinged up , the white mini blazers were all streaked and discolored, you know, stuff like that; they flew ok, but they looked crappy. Shooting through the cardboard targets at the range had pretty much taken its toll on them and If it dont shine, it ain't mine.....I ain't having that chit. I broke out some hot soapy water and a scotch brite pad and went to work on em. After trying to clean a couple arrows, it just wasn't doing the trick, and I didnt have much time before we left. So.....like an idiot, I decided to try acetone. 

WRONG!...Well...LOL!

I started wiping them all down and setting them to the side. But when I started inspecting them for vane for damage, I began noticing that most all of them were sort of dry rotted looking where the vane met the base and some of them just broke off all together. I remember thinking, ya know, maybe that would explain those occasional fliers I been having. But!....after closer inspection and a brief moment of nausea, I realized that what I was seeing was directly caused by what I was doing ukey:

In case you didn't know, DO NOT EVER PUT ACETONE ON A BLAZER VANE!!!! It will melt the crap out of it and make it brittle when it dries. I guess I should have just went to the dam shoot with dingy and wrinkled vanes, but oh no...not me...I got to be first class...too bad it only cost 10 times as much 

So...as you can imagine, im a nervouse wreck by now. We get back home from the festival around 11:30pm that night and Im faced with 16 arrows to completley strip, clean, and refletch, or else I wasn't going to be shooting anything the next morning. I was also concerned that no matter WHAT glue I used, nothing in the world short of crazy glue was going to be set up by 9:00am the next morning, and I didn't have any. Never the less, I had to keep pressing forward and hoping somehow this would all work out. 

All I can say is Thank You Very Much! to Saunders for creating the NVP arrow mate glue. Im here to tell you...this stuff is the bomb! I fletched up 16 arrows between 11:30pm and 1:00am and then hit the sack hoping like hell that my vanes would not come off during the first round and totally ruin my day. It only took about 1 minute if that long for each vane to bond well enough to un-clamp it and rotate the arrow for the next one to go on which is great. By 5:00am the next morning when I picked my friend up and headed for the shoot, I asked him to look at them. You could not pull the darn vanes off with pliers. The bond was not brittle or hard like super glue but it was not soft and gooey like it needed to cure more. They were cured...good enought to shoot anyway... 

All of this to say, whatever the vane you use, and I personally don't care which ones, shoot the ones you like...Just don't wipe the vane or base of the vane AT ALL with acetone. Im not sure how chemical resistant flex-fletch and other vanes are, but the blazers aren't resistant at all to it....

Just my $.02


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## Ode1891 (Aug 30, 2006)

*archers helping archers*

Geeze, just passing on what I do in an effort to help. I never said you have to do what I do. If you'll remember, a year ago or so it was me asking these same questions....


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