# Building a new string jig?



## Deer Eliminator (Jan 21, 2010)

Hey Guys, I am building another string jig (bigger and better). I have a question on the jig posts. How wide and how tall? 
How wide and how tall do you guys recommend for the jig posts?

Thanks Hutch


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## Deer Eliminator (Jan 21, 2010)

ttt


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

what did you have before that you want to improve on??? what size and material?


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## Deer Eliminator (Jan 21, 2010)

I built a custom jig years ago. It is a little weak when stretching the string. The main beam was not big enough so it flexes some. So I have no problem building and welding up a new jig. I was just curious what you guys had for height and width for the jig posts.

Hutch


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## Deer Eliminator (Jan 21, 2010)

Anybody?


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## Spotshooter2 (Oct 23, 2003)

Mine are 6 inches tall ,1 inch around, and 6 1/2 inches apart. No need to get them any taller than needed as it just creates more likelihood that the posts will give.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Hi Hutch 
My ultimate jig post, ignoring all manufacturing costs and material waste, would be: full 2" at the bottom tapering down a couple of times to a 3/4" shaft it would taper down to 1/4" post. the top would be a ball shape to allow you to remove and replace the string with the same ease. This wide base and thick shaft would minimize post flex while winding the thread. The post it's self would be no taller than 7" no shorter than 6". Place this on a 1/2" thick minimum steel base and you are golden.

Let me know how much they'll be :wink:


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

this is why i never stretch or serve with string post's, i have made my own stretcher to do this, works so much better and you dont have to worry about the post's at all, after i layout on posts i trasfer to jig and do all my stretching/twisting/serving on that with 300-325lbs and no issues with even unistrut flexing, its screwed down to work bench too LOL

if i was to build posts i would think about using 1" aluminum and possibly pressing in SS 1/4" dowels on top of it for ultimate strength, even aluminum laythed down to 1/4 on top post is only as strong as those 1/4" parts.


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## Deer Eliminator (Jan 21, 2010)

dwagoner said:


> this is why i never stretch or serve with string post's, i have made my own stretcher to do this, works so much better and you dont have to worry about the post's at all, after i layout on posts i trasfer to jig and do all my stretching/twisting/serving on that with 300-325lbs and no issues with even unistrut flexing, its screwed down to work bench too LOL
> 
> if i was to build posts i would think about using 1" aluminum and possibly pressing in SS 1/4" dowels on top of it for ultimate strength, even aluminum laythed down to 1/4 on top post is only as strong as those 1/4" parts.


I have a stretcher that will take up to 500lbs at least. It is the center beam I will replace this week. It is weak and flexes. I just needed to rebuild my posts because I think mine are to wide apart. And just in case someone wanted serving instead of tag ends.

Hutch


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## TargetShooter2 (Dec 10, 2010)

*Monster Post*



b0w_bender said:


> Hi Hutch
> My ultimate jig post, ignoring all manufacturing costs and material waste, would be: full 2" at the bottom tapering down a couple of times to a 3/4" shaft it would taper down to 1/4" post. the top would be a ball shape to allow you to remove and replace the string with the same ease. This wide base and thick shaft would minimize post flex while winding the thread. The post it's self would be no taller than 7" no shorter than 6". Place this on a 1/2" thick minimum steel base and you are golden.
> 
> Let me know how much they'll be :wink:


hey all :: 
i'm going to turn a set of these out just to see how much time it take 
and what the end results will be , cut the 2 inch bar stock today 

TS2


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## CandianQuest (Mar 31, 2010)

what do you use to get that 500# of tension, and how do you measure the tension?


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## ex-wolverine (Dec 31, 2004)

Do not use Aluminum, it flexes too much...

If anyone can or will make a good 4 post jig that can be locked down and moved while spread, and locked down and moved while inline, I would glady pay what ver its worth...

My recomendation would be stainless or carbon steel


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## Deer Eliminator (Jan 21, 2010)

CandianQuest said:


> what do you use to get that 500# of tension, and how do you measure the tension?


I don't use 500lbs of tension. 300to 350lbs is enough. With the winch and a scale you could get 500lbs. And my stretcher can handle that.

Hutch


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

ex-wolverine said:


> Do not use Aluminum, it flexes too much...
> 
> If anyone can or will make a good 4 post jig that can be locked down and moved while spread, and locked down and moved while inline, I would glady pay what ver its worth...
> 
> My recomendation would be stainless or carbon steel


yeah i agree with no AL, 2" base or not your still turned down to 1/4 on top. i dont think i would ever even use post's to stretch myself, i dont build alot so time isnt my enemy as some it is, im happy to move string to a stretcher after i layout and tie the ends. would be nice to just see what someone could design with 4post thats beefy enough to take the abuse of stretching on the post's


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## Purka (Sep 8, 2004)

dwagoner said:


> yeah i agree with no AL, 2" base or not your still turned down to 1/4 on top. i dont think i would ever even use post's to stretch myself, i dont build alot so time isnt my enemy as some it is, im happy to move string to a stretcher after i layout and tie the ends. would be nice to just see what someone could design with 4post thats beefy enough to take the abuse of stretching on the post's


My string jig can stretch on the posts... It can also draw a bow with two posts..


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

dwagoner said:


> yeah i agree with no AL, 2" base or not your still turned down to 1/4 on top. i don't think i would ever even use post's to stretch myself, i don't build a lot so time isn't my enemy as some it is, i'm happy to move string to a stretcher after i layout and tie the ends. would be nice to just see what someone could design with 4post that's beefy enough to take the abuse of stretching on the post's


I don't believe the 1/4" post will flex much at an inch in length, the sheer strength on that is huge, well if you have your threads at the top it might.... However I have 8" posts that are 3/4" over the whole length and you can clearly see them flex at 200# but the 1/4 post isn't moving significantly. 

I suppose this discussion is futile until we get our hands on a pair, then we'll see how these work out, it may be that you are right. 

Hows it going Shooter2, do you have a price yet? Not rushing you just curious.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Purka said:


> My string jig can stretch on the posts... It can also draw a bow with two posts..


And what do they look like?


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## DssBB (Feb 21, 2010)

> If anyone can or will make a good 4 post jig that can be locked down and moved while spread, and locked down and moved while inline, I would glady pay what ver its worth...


Would you want the Rolls Royce version custom engraved or not? Shoot me a PM and I'll see what I do for you.


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## Purka (Sep 8, 2004)

b0w_bender said:


> And what do they look like?


I have a winch that plugs on the end of the square section and can be rotated x-y-z. I threw some old strings on just for a demo.


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## Deer Eliminator (Jan 21, 2010)

How long is your jig?


Purka said:


> I have a winch that plugs on the end of the square section and can be rotated x-y-z. I threw some old strings on just for a demo.


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## TargetShooter2 (Dec 10, 2010)

*jig*

*If anyone can or will make a good 4 post jig that can be locked down and moved while spread, and locked down and moved while inline, I would glady pay what ver its worth... *

*i got one of these , but it has more features than just a string jig , *
*bow press , draw ck , shootin machine , paper tuner , chrono , a complete compound bow tuning center *

how much would you give me for one of them

to give you a idea on how large a 2 inch jig post will be , here is a one inch setting on a 2 inch bar .


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

thats alot of metal there LOL


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## ex-wolverine (Dec 31, 2004)

ALl I know is, somone needs to buls a good 4 post and I know that they will make a lot of money...If you build it they will come...

The One like GWNNuge is awesome but I can find the pic!


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## Moparmatty (Jun 23, 2003)

ex-wolverine said:


> ALl I know is, somone needs to buls a good 4 post and I know that they will make a lot of money...If you build it they will come...
> 
> The One like GWNNuge is awesome but I can find the pic!


Sounds like I need to get building.


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## Purka (Sep 8, 2004)

Deer Eliminator said:


> How long is your jig?


4 Mitre beam, 4 @ 6.5"x1" posts welded 10" apart, 2 @ 8.5"x1"


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## Moparmatty (Jun 23, 2003)

ex-wolverine said:


> ALl I know is, somone needs to buls a good 4 post and I know that they will make a lot of money...If you build it they will come...
> 
> The One like GWNNuge is awesome but I can find the pic!



Here's the pic you're looking for. DssBB I believe is who made the jig for Nuge. He also replied to you about wanting you to PM him.


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## ex-wolverine (Dec 31, 2004)

ANd it needs to be able to lock down like the brownell Jig...From the center so you can lock it in a straight line or spread apart...ANy other sugestions please throw them in....Lets make this guy some money...

Also, the finish on the post need to be polished so the material dont snag



Moparmatty said:


> Here's the pic you're looking for. DssBB I believe is who made the jig for Nuge. He also replied to you about wanting you to PM him.


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## DssBB (Feb 21, 2010)

ex-wolverine,

The set of 4 posts jigs I made for Nuge does lock onto the uni-strut with 2 screws ensuring they will be no slippage of the jig while under 300+ pounds tension. The top bar as you mentioned does rotate about center and can be locked in place in a straight line or spread apart even under load and is also made to index and lock in at 90 deg increments. The thru hardened pins which the thread is wrapped around are polished smooth prior to heat treating to prevent any snagging and ease when you need rotate the posts under tension. 
Shoot me a PM as I may be able to part with a set.


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## ex-wolverine (Dec 31, 2004)

PM sent



DssBB said:


> ex-wolverine,
> 
> The set of 4 posts jigs I made for Nuge does lock onto the uni-strut with 2 screws ensuring they will be no slippage of the jig while under 300+ pounds tension. The top bar as you mentioned does rotate about center and can be locked in place in a straight line or spread apart even under load and is also made to index and lock in at 90 deg increments. The thru hardened pins which the thread is wrapped around are polished smooth prior to heat treating to prevent any snagging and ease when you need rotate the posts under tension.
> Shoot me a PM as I may be able to part with a set.


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## Bow pro (Mar 4, 2009)

The bar that the actual post fasten to need to be at least one inch thick. The reason it needs to lock down like the Brownell jig is so that you can rotate it without any tools. They would be much quicker to setup and rotate if you make them like this!


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## DssBB (Feb 21, 2010)

The lockdown knob that Brownell uses maybe fine and proberly works quite well. I chose to make my rotating and lockdown system differently as I felt the design I used will work just as well or may work better. 
Brownell makes there bottom slider block thicker (3/4" -1") as it is also somewhat keyed into the uni-strut but I found that different manfacturers of the uni-strut as well as some uni-strut if bent or twisted a bit may not have an consistent gap between the rolled sides and may cause a binding problem when sliding the post assembly to a different position which is why I opted not to make the sliding block like Brownells. I also never went with the Brownell twin knob,handle locking system as I wanted to keep the posts shorter thus reducing or eliminating any deflection in the posts should it be used in a 2 post and stretching configuration. I personally like the cleaner look I get and gives ample room under the string when serving the end loop and by not having a large knob below the string helps to prevent the winder from hitting anything when serving. It may take a few extra second to remove the index locating knobs and loosen the screw to rotate the posts or loosen and re-tighten a couple of screws but that was a design decison I was fine with.

I appreciate the feedback and any contructive thoughts on the jigs but these sets were made for a few archery buddies who had previously seen some of the other toys I've made and knew what kind of quality and craftmanship I can produce and had asked if I would make them a set. There are a few others on here who make jigs and it's different designs and concepts and construction methods which makes this interesting. It's great to see what others come up with as well with regards to building jigs or other archery toys and from each other we all seem to learn.


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## pjchauvin (Apr 10, 2009)

im in the process of building one got the prints drawn up, and will be machining next week after mardi gras here in Lafayette, La.


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## TargetShooter2 (Dec 10, 2010)

*string jig*

the $64 question is ?? 
if the monsterjig was built would the serious string builders want to purchase it ??
at the amount of time and material that it would take to produce a zero flex system 
guess we will just have to see ,,
if nothing else could shoot it with the rifle for a gong plate .


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## SeeMont (Jan 18, 2011)

Thanks for all the information. I am assembling my jig. I have a question, I see some builders using 4 post, some 3 post, Is there anyone just using 2 posts? If a builder uses the tag end method is there any reason to have more than 2 posts or hooks?


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