# Firenock/Lumenock/Nockturnal Head 2 Head (Repost)



## camelcluch (Aug 25, 2009)

Good info.


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## Firenock (Nov 5, 2006)

*how and why*



> I do not know how it survived the saltwater test as the PCB (main board) you would think would be in the water as well. However, it did survive the entire test up to shot 99.


Military grade UV cure epoxy, which make all IC component water tight at 100C for up to 2 hours. Normal moisture, blood, water, saltwater are a non-issue with this design! If all else fail, the ground fault sub system will kick in to ensure the light will light for you, no matter what.


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## ventilator44 (Feb 25, 2010)

great test, I had not experimented with the salt water test up to this point. I also didnt know the lumenok was waterproof at all.


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## Firenock (Nov 5, 2006)

*It is not saltwater proof*



ventilator44 said:


> great test, I had not experimented with the salt water test up to this point. I also didn't know the lumenok was waterproof at all.


It is not, that is why it cannot be shut off whenever it got submerged in saltwater; the ions from the salt and water provided a conduit for the 2 wires to connect and complete the circuit as it cannot be shut off in the test. Simple system are not meant to deal with extreme situations, now think what happen when it is blood soaked :wink: Blood is more conductive and corrosive than saltwater as it is full of iron(Fe) ions and plasma


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## ManOfKnight (Mar 5, 2009)

I thought about that as well...the Lumenock was actually the worst in this test as even in traditional water that was not pure it would turn on. The Nockturnal didn't turn on in the water but instead turned on after the salt test...I still have not figured that out...unless the hardened salt somehow caused a short.

The Firenock never turned on in any of the conditions and in fact now that I have cleaned off the salt it looks and acts brand new. It did a better job than my field points did...I got a little bit of rust on my field points from just being in city water.


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## Firenock (Nov 5, 2006)

*Close and open system difference*



ManOfKnight said:


> The Nockturnal didn't turn on in the water but instead turned on after the salt test...I still have not figured that out...unless the hardened salt somehow caused a short.


For the price and the design, Nocturnal is a more reliable system if compare with Lumenok. That's said, it is still an open system, (the main components are expose to the elements). For fare weather use, it is great. As the design is base on the Korean Lighted Bobber, the on and off is 100% base on that PTE cap able to separate the positive end from the LED; the negative end are welded together. As salt, blood, moisture get it, the cap will be deformed and/or the crystal/dirt will accumulate. The rest is history.

There is simple way to do things and there is reliable way to do it too. The best example is car transmission.

EVERY ONE knows that the manual is simple, fail proof, easier to fix, cheaper, easier to built. Now look around, beside the auto enthusiast very seldom do you see one in a vehicle. KISS is great for people who want to tinker, but for those like myself, who just want something that WORKS EVERY TIME without the work; KISS is not for me. Complex design with simple usage interface is KING. Another good example of this is Apple computer's OS compare to Linux, should I say more! 

Last for those who like to understand more, here is the real design criteria. *Lighted nock is not a lighted on a nock design, but a 200mph collision control with a LED that would survive shot after shot!*


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## ManOfKnight (Mar 5, 2009)

I have been shooting my arrows through my buddy's bow, as mine is at Carter's Archery being "Crackerized" at the moment, and I am happy to report the Firenock is still going. I lost count as to how many shots are on this nock but I have to be around 300 by now and it is still working like the first time I shot it.


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## alpineman1 (Mar 13, 2009)

ManOfKnight Thanks for all the work and testing you did helps in deciding which nock to go with.


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