# DIY --ARROW SQUARING DEVICE--cost me $0.00



## Grandad (Jan 3, 2009)

... that'll work! Good job.


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## chinogoose (Apr 3, 2009)

*Nice*

Good job way to think outside the box:darkbeer:


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## Nardo (Oct 12, 2008)

American ingenuity at work!

Great Job!!


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## admiraleric (Mar 31, 2009)

*A+++*

Good idea !!!


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## sngehl01 (Apr 23, 2006)

usually i'll just push my sharpening stone against the edge of the counter/table, get the arrow as close to perpendicular as I can, and roll the arrow along the table and even up the ends.

works good.

your device looks good, good job.


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## kzz1king (Jan 21, 2007)

I did something similar with straight oak stock. I made a 12" right angle and then another a few blocks to hold the arrow in the right angle trough. I then trimmed the end off with the mitre box to true every thing up and attached an end. I use little squares of sandpaper . I do both the shaft and the inserts.


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## tracy bullock (Jun 5, 2007)

Love it...We think alike..


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## hitman846 (Jan 25, 2003)

Good thinking!


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## Green River (May 13, 2006)

No offense but it sounds lke you just need a new saw. What kind of saw do you have?


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## ar1458 (Oct 12, 2004)

I have a brand new 8000 rpm saw I bought last year at bowhunters supply warehouse...it is not the saw but me ...I kind of have small burr when I am done cutting and I try to slowly spin but sometimes it happens...with this setup I can be done squaring quicker than cutting the arrows ..anyone want to buy my G5 ASD...lol:set1_applaud:


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## BuckWyld (May 5, 2006)

ar1458 said:


> I have a brand new 8000 rpm saw I bought last year at bowhunters supply warehouse...it is not the saw but me ...I kind of have small burr when I am done cutting and I try to slowly spin but sometimes it happens...with this setup I can be done squaring quicker than cutting the arrows ..anyone want to buy my G5 ASD...lol:set1_applaud:


PM me with a price if you want to sell it .


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## Tecumseh (Jan 14, 2007)

...creative. :smile:


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## Hoythunter01 (Oct 23, 2005)

Now thats thinking with your dipstick.......Jimmy !!!


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## archerm3 (Jan 4, 2007)

How do you make sure that the stone is ABSOLUTELY square to the axis of the arrow shaft? I don't trust the alignment of the rollers.


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## ecm (Oct 7, 2005)

Now, when someone designs a tool to square up the arrow side of the flange on an insert, the arrow squaring idea will be halfway worth the effort.


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## Green River (May 13, 2006)

I'm sorry guys, I just don't get the whole arrow squareing thing. I don't understand how a spin cut saw can't do a perfect job, even if it was off 15 deg once you glue the insert in I doubt it will mater anyway.


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## ar1458 (Oct 12, 2004)

Green River said:


> I'm sorry guys, I just don't get the whole arrow squaring thing. I don't understand how a spin cut saw can't do a perfect job, even if it was off 15 deg once you glue the insert in I doubt it will mater anyway.


if the arrow end is not evenly square ..when you glue and push in the insert, it can seat inside the arrow shaft unevenly possibly causing your broadhead to wobble...why take a chance...if you shoot expandables it probably makes little difference but I shoot fix blades...every bit counts to me...


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## ar1458 (Oct 12, 2004)

archerm3 said:


> How do you make sure that the stone is ABSOLUTELY square to the axis of the arrow shaft? I don't trust the alignment of the rollers.


those ball bearing rollers align perfect...you can see every inperfection in the arrow when you spin it ..especially when you spin your broadhead...remember I am clamping a square stone with a square level...if it was off a little I would see it when I spin it ...WHAT I SAW WAS A PERFECT SQUARED ARROW ...:thumb:


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## Zappem (Feb 11, 2006)

A Diamond stone would be more square than a wet stone, and would last longer.


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## archerm3 (Jan 4, 2007)

ar1458 said:


> those ball bearing rollers align perfect...you can see every inperfection in the arrow when you spin it ..especially when you spin your broadhead...remember I am clamping a square stone with a square level...if it was off a little I would see it when I spin it ...WHAT I SAW WAS A PERFECT SQUARED ARROW ...:thumb:


Yeah but there is not guarantee that the centerline between each set of rollers is perpendicular to the frame of the spinner, which is used as the positioning device for the stone, which in itself may or may not be perfectly square. By accident it might be close but I doubt that the spinner manufacturer specified a tight tolerance on the press bent frame compared to the holes drilled for the rollers. 

In any event, even when the stone is not square, if you spin the arrow you effect a lathe type action on the edge of the shaft, instead of being squared off you end up with a chamfer that has little runout, and the runout is what youre going after anyways.

Something you can do on your arrow saw with no modifications.

I submit to everyone that if you have a wobbly broadhead, the problem lies in the runout of the broadhead shoulder first, and the insert face second and the concentricity of the threads in the insert and broadhead shaft third. Not with the interface between the shaft and insert.

If you don't believe me, cut the end of a shaft off at 10 degrees off perpen., install an insert with light pressure and measure the runout of the insert face to the tenthousands.


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## OBE (Dec 4, 2009)

Great idea!


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## timberjak (Jan 22, 2010)

sweet always wanted to do somethin like that, thanks for the great idea. gonna use this one for my own arrows.


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## Ohbowhunter815 (Jul 19, 2010)

archerm3 said:


> Yeah but there is not guarantee that the centerline between each set of rollers is perpendicular to the frame of the spinner, which is used as the positioning device for the stone, which in itself may or may not be perfectly square. By accident it might be close but I doubt that the spinner manufacturer specified a tight tolerance on the press bent frame compared to the holes drilled for the rollers.
> 
> In any event, even when the stone is not square, if you spin the arrow you effect a lathe type action on the edge of the shaft, instead of being squared off you end up with a chamfer that has little runout, and the runout is what youre going after anyways.
> 
> ...


I would have to totally agree with archerm3 but if it makes you feel better your not going to adversely effect anything by doing it, but I dont think you will see any change.


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## kerrye (Sep 1, 2010)

Ohbowhunter815 said:


> I would have to totally agree with archerm3 but if it makes you feel better your not going to adversely effect anything by doing it, but I dont think you will see any change.


You know, if the broadhead is wobbling just a bit when it goes in, I doubt the deer will even care.


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## rembrandt (Jan 17, 2004)

You mean, I went to all that trouble making a cut off saw and I didn't have to?


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## skynight (Nov 5, 2003)

ecm said:


> Now, when someone designs a tool to square up the arrow side of the flange on an insert, the arrow squaring idea will be halfway worth the effort.


That's why you also square the insert itself. The thing you cannot square is the nock - arrow side or string side. I've considered drilling a hole for the nock to set down into and gluing sandpaper over it. Install nock into hole, spin till square. What good does a square arrow do when you put a $.02 peice of crooked plastic nock into it?

As for you guys arguing against squaring inserts, I've made many a broadhead spin true with my G5 tool. It is worth doing. Crooked broadheads simply will not fly consistently.


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## rembrandt (Jan 17, 2004)

I'm wondering, if I put one of those softy type sandpaper blocks at the rear of my cutoff saw, would that be an easy way to remove any burrs from the cut area? Just a thought. All I'd have to do is ease the cut off arrow to the back of the saw and spin it a little and it should be perfectly square. If it works once it should be right......right?


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## beason (Apr 7, 2011)

This is why I love this site. Archers helpin archers at it's best. Thanks!


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## crazygary (Sep 28, 2009)

What if you have Hidden inserts. Does it matter then?


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## eaglecaps (Nov 4, 2009)

Hidden inserts yes, square the ends. Whatever your broadhead or fieldpoint snugs up against by all means square it up. When I cut shafts I cut both ends equally. Read somewhere in the multitude of "archery expert" articles something pertaining to doing that so as to get the straightest arrow possible within spec. I also square the ends, and after the insert is in place I square the face of that as well, then spin check once it's done. Never see any wobble except for the occasional broadhead culprit.


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