# Broadheads hitting low right. Spine??



## aimhard (Jul 28, 2002)

Try moving the rest up or the nock point down to fix the tail high problem. If that fixes it then move the rest away from the bow a little, if you are right handed.


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## Don_G (Aug 2, 2005)

I don't know what you've done so far, so I'll list what works for me. 

Set the A2A, cam timing and tiller on the bow.

With field tips:

I use paper until I get close to right.

Now rule out fletching contact using spray foot powder. A slight contact will disturb BHs more than FTs.

I then use a bareshaft flight test at 20, 30. 50 to get the rest height correct.

I then use the walkback test at 20-40 to set the Left/Right position of the rest.

Now recheck for fletching contact.

Then with broadheads: 

Spin each broadhead/arrow combination. If they visibly wobble do not use them for testing (or for hunting!).

I use 5" vanes with 6 degree Right Helical all the way back on the arrow (I do mean at the end of the shaft!) 

At 20 yards find out where your BH hit. They should be right on. If off, move the rest to make the BH and field tips group together. This is usually micro-adjustments to make up for the additional steering of the BH as it leaves the bow. You must recheck both groups as you move the rest. Then adjust the sights afterwards.

If a compound bow is tuned so that there's no nock travel, then overspine does not matter at all, and an arrow really has to be severely underspined to matter. (but this does vary with the bow design.) 

I shoot RedHead Carbon Supreme Hunter 350s (really they are Carbon Express terminator Hunter Selects in a different package) with a 175 grain head from an 80# Allegiance with no spine issues. These BHs are moving at 270 fps.

As an engineer you know the good groups are telling you that the problem is systematic. Unless you have tested the shafts and oriented the spine, then the problem cannot be an actual underspine condition. If the groups are a result of a dynamic disturbance, then it must be nock travel issues (cam timing, tiller or unbalanced limbs), but recheck all the static factors first.

Good luck,
Don


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## r2t2 (Feb 8, 2003)

I have been reading a lot of the questions concerning grouping of broadheads and field points and feel that too much emphysis is placed on the two shooting the same. I decided years ago that the most important thing is to get the broadheads to shoot good and forget about field points. I only practice with broadheads and that simplifies everything. If I need to work the kinks out on a target that I can't shoot broadheads into I shoot for groups and don't change anything. ( KISS)

RT


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## [email protected] (Feb 23, 2004)

Are you right or left handed?
Shaft length ~27"? 
Feathers or vanes?
What drawlength?


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## PA_ENGR (Aug 11, 2005)

*Good enough*

After shooting my bow for a couple of more days of and doing some minor tuning I have gotten it too shoot bullet holes with both fp's & broadheads. Broadheads are still a little right of fp's, but it may be on my end. It seems like I may be torquing the grip a bit, as sometimes I get an arrow that doesn't seem to fly right. It almost seems like my broadheads are shooting better than fp's so I quite adjusting to get them exact and now am practicing for the season. 2 1/2 more weeks and hopefully I get to see what damage the ST's will do. Thanks for your help


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