# shooting hinge release with a click



## NoviceAddicted (Dec 25, 2015)

I am shooting hinge release now with no click. I use two identical releases in pouch set the same and just pick one or the other out to shoot. The theory being you will not be able to time them exactly the same and helps to not anticipate release firing. I also use different releases x2 at times I am wondering if using hinge with a click, do you just use one release with click thinking it doesn't do anything to use two releases, or do you use two releases with same speed crescent or moon, or use two different speed moons to use a two release system with a click? What methods are used when shooting with a click to not start timing shot? Looking forward to any advice from experienced hinge shooters who use a click. Thanks.


----------



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Not what you call experienced, but getting there. I have two hinges set to click and they got to getting me a little jumpy. And the depending on the manufacturer clicker sears are offered in .004", .006", .008" and maybe more. Joe, previous owner of Zenith suggested strongly not to use the .004". This is like a hair, hair trigger.

For yielding you have to get use the click. I got to yielding and when I tried one of my hinges set to click I went right on through the click - shot good though.

If no other answer contact Padgett or RCR III


----------



## Bobmuley (Jan 14, 2004)

You wanna go for a real ride try one on click and the other smooth that goes off at the others click position. 

I can shoot both but really only use the click for when I expect some good up/down hill shots ; otherwise I’m slow on the uphills and too fast on the downhillers. 

I haven’t seen an advantage of two different click speeds. Other than I may prefer one over the other during that day. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Shogun1 (Jan 31, 2015)

When I first started to use a hinge, I was told, "Just aim and start pulling, then when it clicks start aiming and pulling harder." The click would startle me every time. Every click became the trigger to a huge flinch.

So, I transitioned to using a hinge without a click. But I wasn't as consistent as I wanted to be. Some shots early. Some shots late or not at all.

I re-looked at how to use a click. 

I now use a click in much the manner described in my opening comment.

I have incorporated getting to the click into my shot process -- but before aligning the peep, scope, and desired POI. I have also transitioned from using a J-hook grip (Larry Wise) on the hinge to the brass knuckles grip (Bernie Pellerite). I now pull through the click using my back muscles to pull my elbow around my shoulder BEFORE I release the thumb peg. I no longer allow any yield in my index finger to allow the release to settle in my fingers. 

I get to the click, align the aiming references, and then use a micro contraction of my back muscles to bring my draw elbow around just a hair. And the release fires.

Note. You can fire a hinge with all sorts of hand, fingers, or wrist manipulations. What I described uses the back muscles while isolating the drawside forearm and hand muscles. Some folks will vehemently argue that some one method is better than another. But, it really is about what process YOU can use best and most consistently.

Also, note that getting to that point took being willing to take notes and make minor adjustments to my drawlength and to the "speed" of my hinges as well as to/about explicit details of my shot process.

Now, if I don't get the click as I tighten my back muscles prior to aligning the sight picture -- I abort the shot. After the click, if my sight picture doesn't settle after aligning all the parts, I abort the shot. The hinge is set cold enough that it doesn't automatically go off as something is relaxing ... Instead it goes off after I commit to the shot and start contracting the back muscles to sweep the elbow around the shoulder. If I get through the click, and align the references but don't commit and then the shot starts to deteriorate, I abort the shot. (And that decision is the hardest one to faithfully execute. I've learned that saving the shot by force is less productive than saving the points by aborting the shot.)

So, it isn't about "timing" ... It is about decisions and commitment to the shot without introducing a forcing mechanism into the process --- timing or otherwise.


----------



## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

I use a yield combined with linear expansion. Using TB hinges with their click which is I think .010" and quite slow.
The click happens as I settle into anchor and I start execution once I'm happy with the float. I don't add any tension to make the hinge fire.

Shooting with a smooth moon I feel like I have to setup with a lot of excess rotation available to fire the hinge.


----------



## NoviceAddicted (Dec 25, 2015)

A lot of good information here, thanks a lot everyone.


----------



## NoviceAddicted (Dec 25, 2015)

grantmac said:


> I use a yield combined with linear expansion. Using TB hinges with their click which is I think .010" and quite slow.
> The click happens as I settle into anchor and I start execution once I'm happy with the float. I don't add any tension to make the hinge fire.
> 
> Shooting with a smooth moon I feel like I have to setup with a lot of excess rotation available to fire the hinge.


I'm not sure if I'm understanding your terminology concerning using yield combined with linear expansion grantmac. I'm also interested in hearing more about how you make the hinge go off without adding any tension to make it fire? Thanks!


----------



## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

I don't rotate the draw elbow, it stays inline with the arrow while the hand yields. Basically how many pros describe their shot.
I maintain the same pressure in the system throughout.


----------



## NoviceAddicted (Dec 25, 2015)

Bobmuley said:


> You wanna go for a real ride try one on click and the other smooth that goes off at the others click position.
> 
> I can shoot both but really only use the click for when I expect some good up/down hill shots ; otherwise I’m slow on the uphills and too fast on the downhillers.
> 
> ...


I have 2 brass Only releases that don't have a click option and I really like those so plan on keeping. I also have 2 HBC releases and think I will set one up with click and leave the other with no click for now. I would have to buy another speed moon for one release to run like that which does sound like another good option to consider as you stated depending on the day. It does make sense that since you have to come to the click anyways that running two hinges with same speed click wouldn't make sense being a whole different ball game than running 2 hinges without click. I have used click before and realize a lot of it is getting set up right and methodology that is right for you, also getting used to it. I know a lot of top Pros use everything from thumb release to hinge no click, to click. The thing that got me interested in exploring using a click again was seeing online Levi Morgan saying he only uses a click to have same starting point every time and no misfires. Jesse Broadwater also states that he uses a click to have a consistent starting point. Thanks for the post Bobmuley.


----------



## NoviceAddicted (Dec 25, 2015)

grantmac said:


> I don't rotate the draw elbow, it stays inline with the arrow while the hand yields. Basically how many pros describe their shot.
> I maintain the same pressure in the system throughout.


Got it, hand yielding (relaxing) allowing shot to go off. I try to keep my elbow inline and not rotate it while shooting no click, so thinking this is more in line with my comfort zone. I will have to work on my relaxation technique since I have been shooting more of a pull through, pull the bow apart method of shooting with no click. I'm not saying I want to go back to a static locked in bow shoulder but thinking more of a subtle change while keeping the same pressure throughout so once setup or in preload (please excuse my ignorance of proper terminology) maintaining same pressure and let the shot happen through hand yield (relaxation). It sounds like a good plan. Thanks again.


----------



## NoviceAddicted (Dec 25, 2015)

SonnyThomas said:


> Not what you call experienced, but getting there. I have two hinges set to click and they got to getting me a little jumpy. And the depending on the manufacturer clicker sears are offered in .004", .006", .008" and maybe more. Joe, previous owner of Zenith suggested strongly not to use the .004". This is like a hair, hair trigger.
> 
> For yielding you have to get use the click. I got to yielding and when I tried one of my hinges set to click I went right on through the click - shot good though.
> 
> If no other answer contact Padgett or RCR III


I had a similar experience with my Only hinge with no click, using too fast a Crescent ( there are 3 crescents that flip so 6 angles of curvature) I was getting an occasional misfire. I switched to a colder crescent and problem solved. It wasn't even how far out I had the crescent it just had too little curvature and made it way too hot for that occasional variance when drawing bow. Thanks SonnyThomas.


----------



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

^^^ Any information you take from a Pro make sure it's up to date. You note Jesse and the click. I've seen a few of his video clips and he uses a 3 and 4 finger hinge and I have notes where he loves "his" two finger hinge. These boys change around to keep on top. 

I see you have two of one hinge and two of another hinge. Good idea or more important, having hand held releases that are the same for hook up length. 

Above, Grant gave of thinking TB was slow, perhaps a .010" click. My TB HTs don't feel slow, but different. I had the TB Halo and it was something else to get to go off. I emailed TRU Ball and received back that the click is "about .008". About? They don't know?
Padgett likened TB's click about like pulling out of a "ditch" and why it seems hard.


----------



## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

NoviceAddicted said:


> Got it, hand yielding (relaxing) allowing shot to go off. I try to keep my elbow inline and not rotate it while shooting no click, so thinking this is more in line with my comfort zone. I will have to work on my relaxation technique since I have been shooting more of a pull through, pull the bow apart method of shooting with no click. I'm not saying I want to go back to a static locked in bow shoulder but thinking more of a subtle change while keeping the same pressure throughout so once setup or in preload (please excuse my ignorance of proper terminology) maintaining same pressure and let the shot happen through hand yield (relaxation). It sounds like a good plan. Thanks again.


I keep the index hooked then relax both the index and ring (3 finger). If you don't relax the index it doesn't fire, I relax the ring to keep from punching.



SonnyThomas said:


> ^^^ Any information you take from a Pro make sure it's up to date. You note Jesse and the click. I've seen a few of his video clips and he uses a 3 and 4 finger hinge and I have notes where he loves "his" two finger hinge. These boys change around to keep on top.
> 
> I see you have two of one hinge and two of another hinge. Good idea or more important, having hand held releases that are the same for hook up length.
> 
> ...


Manufacturer to manufacturer 0.008" seems to vary a lot. On Stans it's a hair, TB it's a lot of rotation (which I like). I also like a click which is deep enough to feel (TB and Bernie's). Most of all I want to know where I'm starting from so I know when something isn't working so I can let down.


----------



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

grantmac said:


> Manufacturer to manufacturer 0.008" seems to vary a lot. On Stans it's a hair, TB it's a lot of rotation (which I like). I also like a click which is deep enough to feel (TB and Bernie's). Most of all I want to know where I'm starting from so I know when something isn't working so I can let down.


I can agree somewhat. I do wonder about the handle and bale location.


----------



## NoviceAddicted (Dec 25, 2015)

grantmac said:


> I keep the index hooked then relax both the index and ring (3 finger). If you don't relax the index it doesn't fire, I relax the ring to keep from punching.
> 
> 
> 
> Manufacturer to manufacturer 0.008" seems to vary a lot. On Stans it's a hair, TB it's a lot of rotation (which I like). I also like a click which is deep enough to feel (TB and Bernie's). Most of all I want to know where I'm starting from so I know when something isn't working so I can let down.


I'm going to have to work on that. I know when I shoot no click and pull apart I must have some hand rotation or release wouldn't go off no matter how hard I pull, but was more subconscious. I'm thinking learn this method until it becomes subconscious. I'm also thinking you mean you can let down safely after hitting the click if everything doesn't set up right or holding at full draw too long (practice letting down while on click until I get confidence doing). Definitely deeper click for me which should be the one on my HBC, as most of the shots I regret are the ones I didn't have the discipline to let down on and regret after trying to get away with taking. Thanks grantmac.


----------



## NoviceAddicted (Dec 25, 2015)

SonnyThomas said:


> I can agree somewhat. I do wonder about the handle and bale location.


I'm not sure what you mean about the handle and bale location, please explain? Thanks SonnyThomas.


----------



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

NoviceAddicted said:


> I'm not sure what you mean about the handle and bale location, please explain? Thanks SonnyThomas.


Handles have different sweeps not all that different to some sort of "ergo" fit. On a hinge the bale (hook location) can be forward, over, or back of the center of the neck (some say middle finger) giving a different speed, smoothness or however one wants to describe it. Note hook location of hinges to the front Stan Shootoff....And then my Zenith to my Stan MagMicro Trio. I bought the Stan Mag from Doug Springer years ago - only a $60 long distance phone call to Doug. No pulling post takes a bit to get use to. Sold it to Padgett here on AT and he added a pulling post.


----------



## NoviceAddicted (Dec 25, 2015)

SonnyThomas said:


> Handles have different sweeps not all that different to some sort of "ergo" fit. On a hinge the bale (hook location) can be forward, over, or back of the center of the neck (some say middle finger) giving a different speed, smoothness or however one wants to describe it. Note hook location of hinges to the front Stan Shootoff....And then my Zenith to my Stan MagMicro Trio. I bought the Stan Mag from Doug Springer years ago - only a $60 long distance phone call to Doug. No pulling post takes a bit to get use to. Sold it to Padgett here on AT and he added a pulling post.


I wasn't familiar with the terminology. Thanks a lot. I appreciate you taking the effort to illustrate and explain. That's the thing I love about archery, there is always something to learn.


----------



## Mahly (Dec 18, 2002)

I use a click, but perhaps a little different than some.

I have it set to click as I anchor. And I use it like an anchor point or a level. It confirms I am ready to start the shot. It is not used as part of the firing of the release.

If it doesn’t click, I make it click with hand manipulation, again, not as part of the shot, but to get to the point where I am ready to start my firing engine.

Once all the pre-firing engine checks are made, I move my thumb and touch my pinky finger. This is the start of the engine. Once that happens, I just watch the X and the bow goes off.

Used this way, the click is never scary, and helps me with consistency as I always start from the same place. I do not perceive any movement in the hand, though I am sure there is some. 
Follow through is explosive and ignored until at least a second or 2 after the arrow leaves the bow.


----------



## sheahanigans92 (Aug 31, 2018)

Mahly said:


> I use a click, but perhaps a little different than some.
> 
> I have it set to click as I anchor. And I use it like an anchor point or a level. It confirms I am ready to start the shot. It is not used as part of the firing of the release.
> 
> ...


This is great advice. The click should go off shortly (within a second) after coming to anchor and serve as a signal to start your shot process. Then, take your thumb off the peg, relax the thumb and pinky, and if the release is set right, it will go off. My shot looks like this: (1) draw, (2) anchor, (3) click, (4) thumb off peg, (5) aim, (6) relax pinky and thumb, (6) fire, (7) follow-through. 

The key is lots of practice and blank-bailing. In time, your process will become second nature and your scores will start going up. Good luck!


----------



## NoviceAddicted (Dec 25, 2015)

Mahly said:


> I use a click, but perhaps a little different than some.
> 
> I have it set to click as I anchor. And I use it like an anchor point or a level. It confirms I am ready to start the shot. It is not used as part of the firing of the release.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mahly! Thanks sheananigans!


----------



## whiz-Oz (Jul 19, 2007)

Bobmuley said:


> You wanna go for a real ride try one on click and the other smooth that goes off at the others click position.


I think I could work up to that sort of ride. 
The training might involve a LOT of alcohol and being whipped with wet towels. 
Maybe some random tasering at full draw, then hand me these two releases...


----------



## mod10g (Dec 18, 2006)

I do it a little different then what has been posted so i will share it. I draw with a fairly closed fist and come to full draw, when I get my scope aligned and pin or dot on target I relax my hand and let it stretch until I get to the click. When everything is settled and on target I preload my ring finger a bit and pull until it fires. The thing that I find that is the most important key to getting a good hold and shot is to learn to keep the muscles relaxed in the bow arm and release hand and forearm, it's hard to do at times but when my scores fall off this is usually the culprit.


----------



## NoviceAddicted (Dec 25, 2015)

Thanks mod10g!


----------



## wacker stacker (Feb 2, 2006)

I cannot shoot a click, to me it's like a bomb going off next to my head. It seems to me though the click takes the surprise portion out other than the surprise when the click happens. It's like firing two shots every time I shoot.


----------



## Mahly (Dec 18, 2002)

wacker stacker said:


> I cannot shoot a click, to me it's like a bomb going off next to my head. It seems to me though the click takes the surprise portion out other than the surprise when the click happens. It's like firing two shots every time I shoot.


I think you are concentrating too much on aiming when your click goes off. The click should have gone off well before you start your firing “engine”.


----------



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

wacker stacker said:


> I cannot shoot a click, to me it's like a bomb going off next to my head. It seems to me though the click takes the surprise portion out other than the surprise when the click happens. It's like firing two shots every time I shoot.


Not surprised at this. I've spoke with quite a few people and when they hear that "click" it's firing time or they flinch big time. "Boom, Boom!"

A couple of things. The release isn't set properly or using too hot a click. Like .004" and .006" are too hot and .008" might be better.

Everyone is different. I like to get anchored and something of being on target. I release the pulling post (drop off the thumb). The click should happen. Aiming, relax or yield and the release fires........
.
.


----------



## NoviceAddicted (Dec 25, 2015)

i'm still working with the click and have a couple of observations. For me it's best to get into the click while settling into anchor point so I don't get that flinch, and I tried a fast click and not for me staying with standard click on HBC.


----------

