# How do you measure degrees on a Blitz jig



## Duck65 (Nov 30, 2005)

Good question. I hope someone comes up with an answer, I need to know also.


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## FS560 (May 22, 2002)

Actually you do not try to measure the number of degrees. It is more productive to try for the most angle and still keep the vane seated on the shaft. With the vane seated nicely on the shaft, you will not have too many degrees angle.


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## drop_tyne (Apr 23, 2007)

FS560 said:


> Actually you do not try to measure the number of degrees. It is more productive to try for the most angle and still keep the vane seated on the shaft. With the vane seated nicely on the shaft, you will not have too many degrees angle.


:set1_signs009:


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

FS560 said:


> Actually you do not try to measure the number of degrees. It is more productive to try for the most angle and still keep the vane seated on the shaft. With the vane seated nicely on the shaft, you will not have too many degrees angle.


Yep.


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## RMIKALA1 (Mar 8, 2007)

*Thanks for the responses*

thanks


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## TN ARCHER (Jan 31, 2007)

*Offset*

1 degree = 0.0174 per inch of vane.
2 degrees for a 4" vane is, .o174x2 = .0348 which is between 1/32 and 3/64
So for a 4" vane to have 2 degrees of offset you need the center of the vane to be from 1/32 to 3/64 of an inch off center from the center of the arrow. 

Clear as mud.


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## bowbaker (Aug 23, 2007)

they do make a tool for that i have one myself but i don't remember where i got it you can also use it to set mutiple jigs the same


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## bowbaker (Aug 23, 2007)

i just dug it out it's a jg-1 fletcher gage made by bpe'inc. the address is 890 road 160 emporia,ks 66801-7700 i don't have the phone number though


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## frankensteel (Apr 5, 2006)

*2 degree offset/4 inch vane*

TN Archer- you are correct in stating 1 degree offset equates to .0174" offset per inch of vane length
However for a 4" vane with 2 degree offset the distance from arrow centerline would be:
2 degree offset X .0174"/degree-inch X 4 inches= .139" which is a little over 1/8 inch.
A 2" blazer vane with a 2 degree offset would therefore be offset by a hair more than 1/16".


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## s_house (Mar 12, 2006)

bowbaker said:


> i just dug it out it's a jg-1 fletcher gage made by bpe'inc. the address is 890 road 160 emporia,ks 66801-7700 i don't have the phone number though


Well I found their website. But I can't find that gauge or were to buy one.


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## storminN (Apr 7, 2007)

do you offset the top adjustment or both the top & bottom?


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## dx2 (Aug 25, 2007)

storminN said:


> do you offset the top adjustment or both the top & bottom?


Like FS560 said I just try to get the most angle from end to end while making sure the fletch still contacts the shaft sufficiently on both ends when pressed onto the shaft....so I guess the answer is both.

keep in mind it can be harder to get good offset on small diameter shafts like the Easton Axis - you just have to pay a little closer attention.


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## target_shooter (Aug 31, 2005)

*Vane Angle*

I agree with the above comments - the angle is immaterial as long as it is consistant across the arrows. On my Bitz, I set the offset to the maximum that will keep the base of the vane on the arrow and put a mark on the jig along where the line on the adjustment wheel is. I then fletch 3 arrows here, 3 arrows with slightly less offset (and mark the jig) 3 arrows with less offset again (again marking the jig) and finally straight. 

I then shoot all these arrows to determine which have the best groups and re fletch all my arrows like this. 

:darkbeer:


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## target_shooter (Aug 31, 2005)

dx2 said:


> Like FS560 said I just try to get the most angle from end to end while making sure the fletch still contacts the shaft sufficiently on both ends when pressed onto the shaft....so I guess the answer is both.
> 
> keep in mind it can be harder to get good offset on small diameter shafts like the Easton Axis - you just have to pay a little closer attention.


In line with the above, I forgot to mention that I mark top and bottom - as you do need to move both to align the vane base properly depending on shaft diameter. I find setting the base of the vane on the shaft woth the bottom screw, then loosely tightening the bottom screw in position before setting and tightening the angle with the top screw works best - then you can tighten firmly.


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## Tecumseh (Jan 14, 2007)

...you need to do a little Trig. Do you remember the old expression "SOH-CAH-TOA"? ...which means you can calculate any right angle triangle if you know at least 2 of the 3 variables if you will. 
S = Sin Angle, O = Opposite side from the angle, H = Hypotenuse 
or 
C = Cosine Angle, A = Adjacent side from angle, H = Hypotenuse 
or 
T = Tangent Angle, O = Opposite side from angle, A = Advacent side from angle. 

It doesn't matter how long your vane is. You want to set the angle on the fixture where you straight clamp attaches. the Distance between the mark at the lower end of the clamp is your starting point. The other end is the straight line to and the right angle will go to the spot where you will adjust this second point to. Imagine this being your right angle. Then you would calculate and adjust accordingly. PM me for more info or I can calculate it for you if I know which fixture you have. I did reply to a similar questions with pictures in a thread in the Mathews forum.


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## imissed (May 27, 2004)

Yeah what TEC said...... I think??? What did all that mean??


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## Hoyt Thompson (May 7, 2007)

There is a way that you can lay the protractor on the arow to see what degree you vanes are laying. I don't exactly remember the procedure but it is pretty simple.


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## mark600x (Sep 3, 2005)

*dont forget*



FS560 said:


> Actually you do not try to measure the number of degrees. It is more productive to try for the most angle and still keep the vane seated on the shaft. With the vane seated nicely on the shaft, you will not have too many degrees angle.


remember more angle(helical) means more drag means less speed:i've heard quik spins greatly reduce speed and trajectory because of wind drag...has anyone done different offsets with same stuff and chronoed ? i'd like to see results


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## arahoyt (Aug 17, 2006)

I think that measuring the degrees offset of your vanes is being pretty anal. Unless your shooting for the Olympic team just eyeball it to your preferred offset. If you fletch it and don't like it, tear them off, adjust the jig and try it again. Your not building a piano, don't overthink it. Just my .02.


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## autobows (May 6, 2008)

*Substitute fletching clamp*

Have you considered using a helical clamp. Incidentally, the nylon Grayling clamps will interchange with a bitzenburger and they are about one third the cost.
I have a new LW for sale, $10, includes postage if you are interested.
Cheryl


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## wannamopar (Aug 30, 2006)

*Apologies for bringing back the dead*

But I want make sure my math is correct. I want a 2 degree offset on my arrows and I calculated in this way:

((R * Pi) / 360) * 2

The Bitz Jig measured 5.125 inches on the outside marks which gave me the radius

5.125 * 3.14 = 16.0925
16.0925 / 360 = 0.0447 or 0.045 per degree.
0.045 * 2 = 0.090

I then used a feeler gauge to set the alignment on the clamps.

Does this sound close or am I way off?

Regards
Mark


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## kc hay seed (Jul 12, 2007)

i ask the company about this they told me with a right hand clamp,the top wheel should be about 1/16"off C/L and the bottom wheel obout 1/8" off C/L as long as the vane,feather are making good contact with the shaft. hope this helps


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