# Bow String Making?



## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

im actually working on making string jigs now to sell, its not that hard to get into, can be $100 or more to get a jig and some material, prolly $150 range to be more practical. but start looking for little at a time, or make some stuff yourself. You have access to machinery?? laythe and welder maybe???


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## Keesey (Oct 20, 2009)

I dont have access to a welder that I know of and I dont know how to weld. My grandpa has a laythe that he does carpentry stuff on. Would that work?

What are all the things you need to actually make a string?


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Here are a couple of really helpful posts I found earlier.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1090646&highlight=making+string+tutorial

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=239063&referrerid=22477


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## Keesey (Oct 20, 2009)

Thanks for the links


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## Keesey (Oct 20, 2009)

Just wonderin are there any good videos to watch on how to make strings? Just for another visual


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## Keesey (Oct 20, 2009)

Anyone else have any info?


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## Deer Eliminator (Jan 21, 2010)

A good video with step by step instructions is the Professional Tuning DVD by Grivtech.com Its the blue DVD you will need. Gives you instructions on various buss cables, tag ends, and so on... Its 40.00 bucks so might as well spend the extra 5 and get disk 1 with proper form and shooting...

Hutch


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## munch (Mar 27, 2005)

i just posted 3 parts of a how to video on here under made a string jig post or look under utube for munchmounts that may get you there i still need to load i more part .shipping string jigs this week


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## pernluc (Jun 18, 2006)

You can make a string jig yourself for less tha 50.00 of you have access to some basic materials. I made my first one out of 2 ten foot 2x4s laid parralell an inch apart with 2" steel flat metal ran the length and bolted to the wood. I used 8 inch hardened 5/8 bolts with the hex side cut off and reduced for the string posts. I learned to make strings on it. send me your adress and ill mail you the plans for free.


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## Keesey (Oct 20, 2009)

Whats the best string to get to make a bow string? I know BCY has a few different kinds but from what I can tell they look like different sizes. And what size serving is best to use?


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

If you plan to build strings by serving the ends with the tags can you use a single post jig??
I was planning on building a stretcher/jig all in one unit. Anyone see a problem with this thinking?? 
I would just make the stretcher pins longer than standard(for wrapping the string around), and use 3/8" rod for them to make them strong.


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

An 1/8th pound spool of 452X should be enough to build a string and cable set for a PSE Supra correct?? Guess it would actually be two spools since I want a two color string.
OK, who is going to explain how to build a split cable with a fixed yoke. If I called it the correct name.
How about suggesting a serving tool for a beginner??


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## Keesey (Oct 20, 2009)

Ive also got another question. I hear stuff about stretching strings. When you make one do you make it shorter than your string then stretch it to your current string length or do you make it the same length as your current string?


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## Keesey (Oct 20, 2009)

munch said:


> i just posted 3 parts of a how to video on here under made a string jig post or look under utube for munchmounts that may get you there i still need to load i more part .shipping string jigs this week


i finally got a chance to watch your youtube videos those are some real good videos. helped me understand a little better


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

RatherBArchery said:


> An 1/8th pound spool of 452X should be enough to build a string and cable set for a PSE Supra correct?? Guess it would actually be two spools since I want a two color string.
> OK, who is going to explain how to build a split cable with a fixed yoke. If I called it the correct name.
> How about suggesting a serving tool for a beginner??


http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1356672&referrerid=22477


Excellent picture thread with step by step instructions, for how to make
a split yoke cable.

I recommend the Spigarelli serving tool,
as a good starter piece.

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=8&products_id=2202


Beiter is the top of the line.

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=86&products_id=7853


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Keesey said:


> Ive also got another question. I hear stuff about stretching strings. When you make one do you make it shorter than your string then stretch it to your current string length or do you make it the same length as your current string?


Nope.

Since a string has twists
and
since a cable has twists,
then...

you actually set your posts LONGER than the finished length,
so you can add twists,
and get down to the finished length,
which is "SHORTER" than your starting length,
when you set your posts to wind all your loops of string material.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Keesey said:


> Ive also got another question. I hear stuff about stretching strings. When you make one do you make it shorter than your string then stretch it to your current string length or do you make it the same length as your current string?


Modern string material (452X..Trophy...Astroflight) are all pretty much ZERO stretch materials.

So,
when you put a string bundle into a stretching device,
what you are doing is trying to get the tension in each of the strands
to equalize.

Let's say you want to build a 24 strand bowstring.
So,
you wind up 12 loops of bowstring material,
around the posts of your string jig,
and then you "close the continuous loop" by either of 2 methods:

a) serving around the ends of the string material to form the end serving for one of your end loops

or

b) tag end method.

So,
the continous loop is now closed.

You take the string bundle/continuous loop over to the stretching device,
and you put up to 300 lbs of tension,
and you now burnish the separate colors.

This gets nearly all of the extra wax off the string material,
and
it applys some heat to the bundle,
and this helps to equalize the tension in each strand,
while the bundle is in the stretching device.

Each string maker decides how long is long enough,
for time in the stretching device.


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## Lerie (Aug 23, 2002)

Save yourself some aggravation and go with the Beiter winding tool. It will cost upwards of 4 times the cost of some of the entry level winders. There's that old saying - "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR" and I found this to be very true with serving tools.


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## Keesey (Oct 20, 2009)

Nuts&bolts I would quote what you wrote but you wrote alot. How do you know how much twist to apply to a string? What string material would you choose and why? Im guessing the tag end method is where you leave 2 little tag ends but whats the other mean?


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Keesey said:


> Nuts&bolts I would quote what you wrote but you wrote alot. How do you know how much twist to apply to a string? What string material would you choose and why? Im guessing the tag end method is where you leave 2 little tag ends but whats the other mean?


Hello Keesey:

There are several formulas,
but a good starting point is the 1% rule.

Let's say you want a finished string length of 60-inches.

So,
you could set your posts for say 101% of 60-inches = 60.6-inches.
Just use your tape measure and measure from the outside edge to outside edge of your string jig posts.

If we are making a 24-strand string,
then this is 12 loops of string material.

Now,
find a wooden dowel
and stick the dowel inside the loops, near the left string post.

Stick another dowel inside the loops, near the right string post.

Now,
tension up to 300 lbs (I use a Viking Spring Scale).

Now,
start twisting.

The wooden dowels (string separators) will force the twists to start in the center.

I like to put about 1 twist per 1.5-inches of finished length.

So, good starting guess would be 40 twists for a finished length of 60-inches.

So,
put in about 10 twists,
and then relax the stretcher a bit,
cuz as you ADD twists, the string bundle gets shorter
and the tension will climb.

Add another 10 twists,
and relax the stretcher again.


So,
when you are up to 40 twists,
and you are sure that the tension is still at no more than 300 lbs...

whip out the tape measure,
and measure the distance between posts.

Adjust your twists,
until you get the 60-inch finished length.

Now,
leave the bowstring bundle in the stretching device
and allow things to even out (strand tension).

You can burnish the entire string bundle
and get everything nice and round and smooth
(this assumes you already burnished the colors separately in an earlier step).

Maybe you let it sit in the stretching device for 30-minutes.
Maybe you let it sit overnight. Your choice.

When you are happy with the amount of time in the stretching device...

bring the tension down to 100 lbs
and re-measure the distance between string posts.

ADJUST the twists to get to the finished length you want (in this example, 60-inches).


After some practice,
you may like the 1% rule.

After some practice,
you may like the 0.75% rule,
which means for a finished length of 60-inches,
you set the string jig posts for 60.45-inches.


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

Would I be making it hard on myself trying to use a two post string jig for my first string??? I want to build a stretcher/jig all in one. Guess I will build a two post fixed end also for the split yoke cables.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Keesey said:


> Nuts&bolts I would quote what you wrote but you wrote alot. How do you know how much twist to apply to a string? What string material would you choose and why? Im guessing the tag end method is where you leave 2 little tag ends but whats the other mean?


So,
the "tag method"
is where you use the two ends of the string material,
after you have finished making your 12-loops for the 24 strand string,
to close the loop (end loop serving is make with string material).

Some folks close the loop (cut the string material off the spool and tie down the end)
and wrap the loop closed with serving material.


Here are photos from the picture thread by AKDoug,
where his 9 y.o. makes his first string.



















































































So,
when you look at the last photo in this series (this is only part of the steps),
photo #9...

you see that he has installed the first end loop serving
around the "tag ends" of the bowstring material.

The first end loop serving,
is what closes the endless loop,
and holds everything together.


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## Keesey (Oct 20, 2009)

Ok this may be a dumb question but was does burnish mean?

Any suggestions on string material and serving sizes? I've asked a few other people as well just trying to get everyones opinions on this


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

RatherBArchery said:


> Would I be making it hard on myself trying to use a two post string jig for my first string??? I want to build a stretcher/jig all in one. Guess I will build a two post fixed end also for the split yoke cables.


Two post jig works just fine,
when using the "tag end method".


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## Keesey (Oct 20, 2009)

So from the pictures, he wrapped the string material around the posts. Served the string between the posts then cut the ends off and the serving held it in place. Is that right?


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Keesey said:


> Ok this may be a dumb question but was does burnish mean?
> 
> Any suggestions on string material and serving sizes? I've asked a few other people as well just trying to get everyones opinions on this


When you have the string material wrapped around and around the string jig posts,
there is a tremendous amount of EXTRA wax on the string material.

Let's say you are doing a 1 color bowstring.

You have completed your wraps,
and tied off the ends of the string material.

No serving just yet.


Well,
cut off a fresh length of string material,
say about 12-inches long.

Now,
take the end of the string material
and wrap around both sides of the endless loop
say once or twice.

Now,
pull on the two ends of this "noose"
and the loop will choke down on the string material.

Pull and slide the "noose" all the way left
and
all the way right.

The "noose" will scrape and compress the string bundle
and you will get a HUGE amount of excess color wax off the string bundle.

Can't do this too much.
Get all the extra wax that you can.


If you are doing a 2 color string,
then "burnish" the colors separately.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Keesey said:


> So from the pictures, he wrapped the string material around the posts. Served the string between the posts then cut the ends off and the serving held it in place. Is that right?


CRITICAL to use the bungee cords.

Tie down the bunge cord.

Tie off the end of the string material to the hook on the bungee cord.

Now,
using your fingers (thumb and index finger) on the ends of the string material spool,
JUST like the drag on a fishing reel,
start squeezing lightly on the spool of string material,
and start to STRETCH the bungee cord SLIGHTLY.

Let's call this 4 ounces of pressure on the ends of the spool.

Keep this pressure on the ends of the spool (fishing reel drag setting) 
VERY CONSISTENT,
while you make your 12 loops.

When you have finished your 12 loops,
while maintaining that perfect 4 ounces of tension on the string material....

get the string material around the other hook of the bungee cord,
and stretch the bungee cord hook,
the SAME amoung as the first hook,
and tie off.

Now,
cut off the string material.

You are now hooked up to BOTH hooks of the bungee cord.

Now,
you install the FIRST end loop serving,
with your serving tool,
and when finished,
you have closed the loop.

When the FIRST end loop serving is complete,
cut off the string material from the spool,
and decide how you want to work with the tag ends
at each end of the first end loop serving.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Keesey said:


> So from the pictures, he wrapped the string material around the posts. Served the string between the posts then cut the ends off and the serving held it in place. Is that right?


Some folks feel that the "tag end" method,
where you use the tag ends of the string material
to act as the end loop serving,
results in a better product,
cuz ZERO slippage.

When you use serving to close the endless loop,
you are relying on the serving (each wrap acts like a tiny c-clamp)
to hold things together.

You could use the serving method,
and then figure a way to weave the tag ends
into the bowstring bundle.


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## Keesey (Oct 20, 2009)

Wow thanks for all the info! I think I understand it all. Thats a lot of info but again thanks


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## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

I guess I just need to build my stretcher/jig and give it a try, best way to find out if I understand all this info 
I need to build a PSE Supra string set for my Frankenbow (BMXL w/ 12" limbs) and need a 103" string, suggestions on inches between my two posts?? 103 5/8"???
The split yoke cable needs to be 40" so what about a length for that??? I will use a two post fixed end for this cable. How far apart should the posts be for the split yoke end?? 4" to much??? (Help nuts and bolts)


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## Deer Eliminator (Jan 21, 2010)

RatherBArchery said:


> I guess I just need to build my stretcher/jig and give it a try, best way to find out if I understand all this info
> I need to build a PSE Supra string set for my Frankenbow (BMXL w/ 12" limbs) and need a 103" string, suggestions on inches between my two posts?? 103 5/8"???
> The split yoke cable needs to be 40" so what about a length for that??? I will use a two post fixed end for this cable. How far apart should the posts be for the split yoke end?? 4" to much??? (Help nuts and bolts)


Here is a link take a look at munch's jig 
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1373421&highlight=string+jigs


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## Keesey (Oct 20, 2009)

Ive got another question. How do you know how much weight your stretcher is using? Like on munch's jig (which looks pretty good) with the stretcher how do you know if you have 300 pounds of tension when stretching? Do you guess?


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Keesey said:


> Ive got another question. How do you know how much weight your stretcher is using? Like on munch's jig (which looks pretty good) with the stretcher how do you know if you have 300 pounds of tension when stretching? Do you guess?


Purchase a Viking 300 lb spring scale.

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/product_info.php?products_id=2117


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

RatherBArchery said:


> I guess I just need to build my stretcher/jig and give it a try, best way to find out if I understand all this info
> I need to build a PSE Supra string set for my Frankenbow (BMXL w/ 12" limbs) and need a 103" string, suggestions on inches between my two posts?? 103 5/8"???
> The split yoke cable needs to be 40" so what about a length for that??? I will use a two post fixed end for this cable. How far apart should the posts be for the split yoke end?? 4" to much??? (Help nuts and bolts)


It depends on the string material
and how many inches per twist you want in your finished string.

If you use the tag end method,
a two post string jig works just fine.

Thread about solo cam string building. 1% rule seems about right.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=247071&referrerid=22477


Here is another post, with a math formula for setting the string jig spacing.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=569059&referrerid=22477


Excellent picture thread about split yoke cables.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1356672&referrerid=22477




40-inch cable.
1% rule = 40.4-inches for post spacing.
3/4% rule = 40.3-inches...about 40-5/16ths

Now, with cables....if you have LESS twists per inch, you can make FINER adjustments to cam timing, with a single half twist.

Same for a bowstring. LESS twists per inch allows for a FINER adjustment, when tuning PEEP rotation.

So try the 1% rule for solo cam strings.
So try either the 1% or 3/4% rule for cables and hybrid or twin cam strings.

1 twist per inch is Very Tight.
1 twist for every 1.5-inches is comfy.
1 twist for every 2-inches is on the loose side.

So, take a leap of faith, build your FIRST set of string and cables,
remember to make your endless loops with EVEN tension (bungee cords help)
remember to set your posts a skosh LONGER than your finished length,
TWIST with separators inside the loop at each end (I just use fat Sharpie marker pens) while UNDER tension
burnish....burnish...burnish...


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

If you have a spring scale, you may notice the tension drop over time.
Crank the pressure back up to where you want.
When the pressure holds.....then you know that the strands are now ALL at even tension.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

RatherBArchery said:


> I guess I just need to build my stretcher/jig and give it a try, best way to find out if I understand all this info
> I need to build a PSE Supra string set for my Frankenbow (BMXL w/ 12" limbs) and need a 103" string, suggestions on inches between my two posts?? 103 5/8"???
> The split yoke cable needs to be 40" so what about a length for that??? I will use a two post fixed end for this cable. How far apart should the posts be for the split yoke end?? 4" to much??? (Help nuts and bolts)


Lately, I have been building floating yoke cables.
So,
if I need a 40-inch yoke cable,
then I might set the posts for the 3/4% rule,
and set the posts for 40.3-inches.

Now,
I have also been experimenting with Jesse Broadwater style 10-inch yoke legs, on floating yoke cables.
The super long legs, forms a very very sharp, narrow angle, that seems to help the floating yoke cable
lock down it's setting, and the floating yoke cable self adjusts, to the best setting.

With a floating yoke cable, you ALWAYS have the option to serve the two legs together,
just above the "V".

So,
if you want a 40-inch cable,
then I will make a short bowstring that is 30-inches long.

Then,
I make up a 20-inch short bowstring,
and feed it through one end loop of the 30-inch "cable -part 1"
and make 10-inch long floating yoke cable legs,
to have a full diameter floating yoke cable that is 40-inches long.

The "split cable" design has cable legs that are only half the strand count,
cuz we "SPLIT" the cable.

With the floating yoke cable design,
you have ALL the strands in all parts of the cable.

Much stronger cable.
MUCH more solid wall feel.


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## Vortex69 (Jul 8, 2007)

Keesey said:


> Ive got another question. How do you know how much weight your stretcher is using? Like on munch's jig (which looks pretty good) with the stretcher how do you know if you have 300 pounds of tension when stretching? Do you guess?


Here's another option that uses a 300# die spring.


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## mbw (Oct 11, 2010)

Don't know if this has been posted yet but NP Archery put together a great thread on split yokes. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1356672


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## Keesey (Oct 20, 2009)

Yea I saw that thread its a real helpful one


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## Keesey (Oct 20, 2009)

For a serving tool would it be better to get something like this http://www.basspro.com/BCY-Bearpaw-Serving-Tool/product/103665/-1606448

Or a simple little 10 dollar one that basically has a wing nut on the side? Didnt know if that one from bass pro was really worth twice as much money or not


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Keesey said:


> For a serving tool would it be better to get something like this http://www.basspro.com/BCY-Bearpaw-Serving-Tool/product/103665/-1606448
> 
> Or a simple little 10 dollar one that basically has a wing nut on the side? Didnt know if that one from bass pro was really worth twice as much money or not


I have one of the early versions of the Bearpaw serving tool.
I don't use it at all. Some modifications were made to the frame, on later versions, to hold the serving thread better up on top.

I also have the Spigarelli,
which is VERY smooth and a joy to use.

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=8&products_id=2202

$18 at Lancaster Archery.


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## Carbon Jack (Jan 1, 2011)

I make all my own Flemish stings. (traditional bows all I shoot) The reason being it's so hard to get a string via mail order that is the correct length. Most of the time commercial strings are way too long. You end up twisting them too much to get the shorter length. So you order an overly short string the next time thinking you will out smart them. This time the string arrives at the proper short length you ordered. (surprise!) Of course now it is too short. At this point you consider hanging yourself with this short string. 

So I learned to make my own. It's satisfying and makes you feel more independent.

Jack


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## MISSOURIBOY (Aug 20, 2010)

Keesey said:


> I've got alot of time on my hands due to injury and deer season being over and I was curious, what does it take to make your own bow strings? Is it something that can be done on a budget? I would love to learn how to but if it costs a few hundred bucks just to make a string I may have to wait. I'm not looking to start a string making business just something for me to do. I want to be able to do as much as possible to my bow and I think this may be the next thing. Any help would be great. Thanks


It's not hard at all. I built my own jig and ordered an instructional DVD from BCY and some 450+ and haven't looked back. I would put my strings up against any. Go to the Strings and Arrows section, the guys on here are awesome and give great tips and advice. There are countless plans on here for jigs and how to for most anything archery related.


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## Twelve Ringer $ (Dec 30, 2009)

I started making strings almost a year ago. I have made many sets for myself and friends, I didn't like the idea of waiting 3 weeks for a pro shop to make my strings. I didn't order any dvd I just used my imagination. I made my jig from basic things found at the hardware store. You can hopefully get the idea from the pics I have attatched (sorry for the poor picture quality phone is all I have). You can find these materials in most LOWE's or HOME DEPOT in the electrical isles. For my post I inserted metal dowels into square tubing, all of which I purchased from Lowes.However I had a friend weld mine but as long as you have access to a drill and drill bits you can drill the the holes and make the dowels fit snugly and epoxy them in place. I made my first set of strings for$100 dollars (Jig and Materials). This left me with plenty of material to make more strings. I also suggest the spigarelli server. Happy Shooting


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## jim p (Oct 29, 2003)

When it comes to making strings there are all kinds of ways to make them. You have to decide if you just want a string that will work or if you want a work of art that works. The first string that I made was made on a 4 post jig that I made totally out of 2x4's and wooden dowels with screws in the end of the dowels to wrap the string on. I could only put about 50 to 100 lbs tension max on this setup but it made a couple of strings that only had 1/8 turn to the peep and the peep rotation was consistent so all I had to do was line the peep up so that when the bow was drawn the peep would rotate to the open position.

Now I use the tag ends to serve the loop, so I don't need a 4 post jig. What I like to do now is serve the loops using the tag ends. If I am using only one color I don't have a tag end for one end of the string so I just cut a piece of string material and hand serve the other end like it had a tag end. I am not concerned about the tension of the initial layup other than just trying to keep the tension equal in each strand. So I could lay up a string just around 2 nails. Once the string is laid up and the end loops served, I now take it and put it onto a stretcher and put about 300 lbs of tension on the string and let it sit for a few hours. During this time I usually burnish the string to get the excess wax off. I then twist the string under tension and serve the string under tension.

You could make a tensioner by using a hook screwed into a ceiling beam and hanging weights on it or you could use a hook and a carabine and a come along winch to tighten the string for serving. Like I said there are all kinds of ways to make a string.

Get you some string material and a server and with some serving material and see what happens. You can even use some brands of fishing line for serving if you just want to play around and see what string building is all about.

Others have already posted about how to lay up your initial length so that your twisted string is the correct length. Once you make a few strings you may decide that you want more or less twist and you can adjust your initial layup length to get what you want.

I only make strings for myself so I don't have to worry about how others like my craftsmanship. If you are going to make strings for other people I would suggest that you get some good equipment so that you will know the strings are made as good as they can be made.

I originally started making my strings because I wanted to be able to put servings on my old strings when the serving would be chewed up by an old single cam bow that I have. I feel like being able to make my own strings has been very helpful just because I don't have to depend on another person to keep my equipment going. Making strings and having a press so that you can tune your bow is very valuable if you want your bow to shoot as good as possible.


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## bryanroberts (Mar 1, 2014)

Tagging old thread for reference


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

I link to a bunch of different tutorials from my website too. 
feel free to explore
http://nwspinner.com/index.php/articles


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## MandK (Jul 29, 2013)

Thanks for bring this back and thank you Bow bender for pulling everything together on your web site
Mark


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

You are welcome, if you see another really good source let me know and I'll add it to the list of links on the website.


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