# Modified french tune



## cmarr2319 (Nov 21, 2013)

So im kind of confused guys. Once you french tune and get your rest aligned with your site you still have too broached tune. Which in turn your moving your rest again. Wouldn't this be throwing your french tune out of wack? I french tune then BH tune then site my bow in and with this method I've had very good results. I'm just trying to grasp the concept here? Thanks in advance ya'll.


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## tirving (Nov 3, 2013)

I think, the general idea is that, as you progress through your tuning process, the adjustments will get increasingly more micro. 
For instance, I am anal with my paper tuning, and work to get bareshaft bullet holes at 4 yards. Then, I check my Fletched arrow at 6 feet, to make sure it's a bullet hole too. 
Then bareshaft tune at 20 yards to get bareshaft and fletched to hit the same spot. My bareshaft tune adjustments end up being so small, I move the rest 1/32"-1/16" to get flight perfect. 
From there, broadheads usually fly perfectly (fixed, I'm in Oregon). 
Then I plan on doing torque tuning
Then I do a modified walk back a la Gregg Poole, I think these adjustment are going to be VERY micro. 

Many times, even though I make adjustments, I can go back to paper or bareshaft at 20 yards, and everything will still be solid; if it's not, I don't care, as long as I'm shooting good and broadheads fly like fieldpoints out to 60+

Lefty archer in the PNW


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## huteson2us2 (Jun 22, 2005)

I take my sight level out of the equation when tuning. So easy to assume that your sight is perfectly level and French tune to find out that the problem was not your rest but the level. So I will shoot at 3 yards into an arrow hole. Then on my bow, my 3 yd and my 55 yd mark are the same, so I step back to 55 yds and without moving my sight, I will shoot at a 50 yd field target. Now if the group is left or right at 55 yds, then I will move my rest slightly until the arrow hits the center on both distances.

Then you have to go back to the 3 yd target and shoot the arrow hole again. Sometimes you have to go back and forth a few times until they hit the same. Now after you get everything correct, you can now use your 20 yd pin or mark at 20 yds and then back out to 60 yds and use your 60 yd pin or mark. This will let you know if the sight is level. I have seen too many archers paper tune, and then French tune and move their rest only to find out that their sight was not perfectly level to begin with.

To find out which distances to use with pins, use your 50 yd pin after making sure you hit the spot at 50 yds. Then move up to around 3 yds and aim at an arrow hole with your 50 yd pin. If the arrow hits high, then move back a foot at a time until you hit the hole and do the opposite if you hit low. Once you find the right spot, mark the spot to use again later.


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## pottergreg (Mar 20, 2015)

Great point on the sight level huteson 2us2, There is more to it than moving the rest L or R, it would help to know your entire set-up. Arrow spine is critical, and the most critical is your form, especially the grip. You don't just move the rest once and done (Unless you get lucky). It is a combination of of rest position, rest timing, cam sync, arrow dynamic spine (how the arrow is actually reacting due to length, point weight, etc) not just the number printed on the shaft. Adding a broad head can change the dynamic spine and the BH can plane, For this reason, I suggest you bare shaft tune (and it's easier to find a target). I do do the modified french tune then I tune the rest of the bow to that rest position, then you might need to shim cams, change the dynamic spine of the arrow, adjust yokes if you have them, and sometimes change your form/grip. So, how do you know what to do/try/test first. Opinions vary. I would test a bare shaft through paper at 2 yards and then at 7 yards, if 2 yds is good and 7 is bad, I start testing spine. You can get some points in 25 grain increments and you can turn your bow up or down 2 pounds at a time and see what makes it better at 7 yards and what makes it worst. You will find in most cases that your bare shaft will start hitting the target parallel to a fletched shaft. Record your results so that you can see a pattern develop.


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