# Whisker Biscuit Tail High



## jtascone (Feb 27, 2007)

Draw stops have nothing to do with timing, they have to do with cam sync. Do you shoot a d-loop? Also, how tight do your nocks fit your serving? Is the bow in specs (ATA, BH, Poundage)? A little more info would be helpful.


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## Stephan C (Sep 10, 2006)

jtascone said:


> Draw stops have nothing to do with timing, they have to do with cam sync.



Please explain this and the difference between the two

I do shoot a D-loop. The nock fit seems ok (maybe a pinch tight)

I am going to go measure BH and ATA--poundage is in spec


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## Stephan C (Sep 10, 2006)

BH and ATA are in spec as well


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## nccrutch (Feb 26, 2003)

first, make sure your biscuit is setting 90-degrees to the string, not like / or \, but straight up and down.
now set your loop so that the arrow is absolutely 90-degrees to the string as well.
make sure cock vane is striaght up.


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## Stephan C (Sep 10, 2006)

Biscuit is square to string

cock vane straight up

rest moved in smallest increments possible thru having the arrow perpendicular to string--the high tear gets a little better, but never goes away or changes into a tail low tear


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

At rest where is the arrow shaft in relation to the rest mount hole? Even, high, or low?


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## Stephan C (Sep 10, 2006)

as close to dead even as is possible ( or at least it looks so t me--that is a hard one to measure--what is the accepted method of measuring that ???????)


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Sounds OK. Do your fletchings have marks on them and is it the same fletchings on each arrow?
FYI the difference in cam sync and draw stop timing. As it sounds, draw stop timing is just if they finish the draw at the same time. Cam synch is getting the cams rotating at the proper speed in relation to each other. Measure the tiller to check cam sync. Be sure your limb bolts are tightened equally (or lossened equally). You can read Javi's Draw Stop Timing Revised at the top(a sticky) here in the tuning section.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

I asked about the marks on the fletching because you need to confirm that its not actually bouncing off the bottom.


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## Stephan C (Sep 10, 2006)

A question

bieng that I have the Z3 cams on my kat xl, and they dont have reference holes, how am I supposed to know they are synched? do you do that by measuring tiller?


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

I would think so yes. In Javi's post above he mentions tiller being a better indicator of sync than the performance marks.
How 'bout those fletchings?


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## Stephan C (Sep 10, 2006)

red44 said:


> I would think so yes. In Javi's post above he mentions tiller being a better indicator of sync than the performance marks.
> How 'bout those fletchings?



fletchings look good- no marks after 50 shots/arrow


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## Stephan C (Sep 10, 2006)

dwagoner said:


> tiller is one measurement but there are others that tell you your all in spec, draw weight and draw length mean alot also, you can over do one cable or another and get specs out but still have correct tiller. Where your DW or DL is can help you out in determining what cable needs twisted/untwisted to get all specs correct, Tiller, DW, DL. Obviously ATA and BH also


so, let me be sure I have this straight (because I think I may need to go to my local pro shop and "teach" them how to do this)

Follow the instucions in JAVIs post and to tell is I am in sync, check for even tiller, BH, and ATA-then adjust dw/dl into spec?

if the cams are synced by checking specs, will the Draw Stop Timing be right as well? If the DST is not right, wont i throw the cams out of sync when I try to correct it????????

I am about ready to buy a crossbow--this is so confusing.......


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

I hear ya! Long live the solocam :tongue:
There is a point where tiller should be even or darn near, DST on, lbs, and DL. I would'nt worry about exact ATA or BH so long as they're close. As was stated, DW, DL, Tiller (sync) and DST are what your trying to hit.
I'm am the first to say it confuses the crap out of me too. I went over and over my son's several times before I hit on that spot.


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## petev (Jun 7, 2008)

It is not that complicated. Cam synchronization is controlled by the buss and control cables. Cam synchronization is the relative timing between the cams. Loosening the buss cable has the same effect as tightening the control cable and vice versa. Choose to loosen or tighten a cable based on whether ATA is short or long. Choose the buss or control cable depending on which way the synchronization needs to be adjusted and whether loosening or tightening.

Cam timing and draw length are controlled by the string. Cam timing is the position of the cams at rest. There is no exact correct position, but you don't want to be two far from specification or performance will suffer. Of course adjusting the string length effects ATA as well, so you can see where this can be a bit iterative if draw length is way out when setting the buss and control cable lengths.

~petev


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## borstar1 (Jun 18, 2008)

*high tear*

i have the same bow and had the same problem. Trophy ridge site says slight high tear will give acceptable groupings. I moved my nock back to 1/8inch high and my broadheads starting hitting with FP's again. Give it a try as it drove me crazy for a while.


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## Hoosieroutdoors (Jan 14, 2006)

Try turning your bottom limb bolt 1/4 turn tighter,,had the same problem on a PSE Triton with the WB and this was only thing that fixed it.


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## BROTHER (Mar 14, 2006)

*hoyt and wb*

i have tried to tune 3 hoyts with a wb i got nock high on all 3 and never could it it out.and i tried everything.


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## Swamptrekker (Jul 21, 2008)

*tear high*

Buddies Martin bow can not get nock high tear out either. Tiller on, rest square, cock vane up, D-loop (loose & tite to nock), nock point up and down. 3/4 inch tear high and can see porpoising down range.


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## WEATHERBY460 (Dec 24, 2002)

i am having the same problem on my am 32....any ideas?


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## blmathis12 (May 22, 2009)

came across this many times in the shop hoyts dont like full capture rest do to knock travel the best thing we've done to tune a wb with a hoyt is use a knock point and tie you loop below the arrow this sounds funky but do it a and shot some bullet holes!!! lol if that dont work go with a prong rest or fallaway hoyts love them!


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