# Fita Target stands



## InKYfromSD (Feb 6, 2004)

Several good stand plans at Texas Archery Assoc. I made a slightly scaled-down version of this one for a Morrell Outdoor Range target. Works great!


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## JC280 (Jul 22, 2002)

InKYfromSD said:


> Several good stand plans at Texas Archery Assoc. I made a slightly scaled-down version of this one for a Morrell Outdoor Range target. Works great!


Thanks! That stand looks good plus I like the fact that we won't have to rope and stake the stand down. 

JC


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## jhinaz (Mar 1, 2003)

JC280 said:


> Thanks! That stand looks good plus I like the fact that we won't have to rope and stake the stand down.
> 
> JC


I haven't looked at the pictures/plans that you're intending to use, perhaps there's something about the particular design that doesn't need staking down. One word of caution though, if a strong head-wind blows the target over there will be a lot of expensive arrows that can get broken or bent. I'd rather be safe than sorry. - John


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## BAF (Aug 31, 2006)

*Must be staked down!!*

As the designer of the referenced stand, I must add that the *stand definitely needs staking* to prevent overturning by the wind. The link above shows photos of the stand with a single cord stake-down from the back brace. I tested this stake-down in about 30 mph winds with no ill effects.


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## InKYfromSD (Feb 6, 2004)

BAF, Thanks for making the plans available! simple design that's easy to build and easy to store. I used Google SketchUp to make my planes based on yours. I'm going to build another one out of pressure treated lumber, and wheels from an old lawnmower, so it'll be safe to leave outside. Yes, I stake mine down too using paracord and a long spike.


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## pencarrow (Oct 3, 2003)

I built 5 using BAF's plans, for our Senior Games. I used pressure treated 2X4s rather than 1X4s, makes them heavier. They are standing tall on the line now in 35MPH winds gusting to 50, I hope it lays down before we shoot tomorrow. I will definitely stake them down before we shoot.

Fritz


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

pencarrow said:


> I built 5 using BAF's plans, for our Senior Games. I used pressure treated 2X4s rather than 1X4s, makes them heavier. They are standing tall on the line now in 35MPH winds gusting to 50, I hope it lays down before we shoot tomorrow. I will definitely stake them down before we shoot.
> 
> Fritz



Yes, staking down is good. It is really painful to watch a heavy butt and stand fall forward and shatter all of your arrows as happened to me once. Expensive and preventable.


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## JC280 (Jul 22, 2002)

BAF said:


> As the designer of the referenced stand, I must add that the *stand definitely needs staking* to prevent overturning by the wind. The link above shows photos of the stand with a single cord stake-down from the back brace. I tested this stake-down in about 30 mph winds with no ill effects.


I noticed the short section of rope in the back after I posted. That short rope is a lot better and easier than the long stuff we us now. I haven't built on yet but I plan on doing so as soon as time permits.

Thanks for the plans.

Jonathan


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## whiz-Oz (Jul 19, 2007)

These are a few photos of the target stands designed by Brendan Wallace at the Canberra Archery Club in Canberra, Australia. 

They're steel framed at the back and lower legs, but forward of that are largely wooden framed. The front and rear frames are separated by the welded wire mesh and the front surface is kept flat by being about 3 inches off the target butt packing. The front surface is made flat by being cardboard slid into an envelope of shade cloth stapled to the target face subframe. 

The target face subframe is just a square frame of 1" x 3" wood. It sits in the supports made by the edges of the box and is just held in with a self tapping screw in each corner. 

The beauty of it is that you can pull the target frame out once a year, reskin on the front with new shadecloth and slip some new cardboard in between the two front skins. Then you use the offcuts on the back of the subframe to hold the packing in place and stop the front target face from bulging outwards. 

With the target face off, you can repack the center with pallet wrap if required. Only the center portion of the target is pallet wrap in a size of about two feet square. It cops the biggest pounding of course. The conveyor belt flap on the back stops any passthroughs gently. 

The rest of the target is packed with medium high density styrofoam. It stops arrows pretty damn well. this keeps the targets extremely light for its stopping power and I haven't seen them replaced in four years. 

They can be moved reasonably easily by anyone of normal strength.

We've repacked the centers a few times, but only once a year before the big tournament.

The rear stays have stakes on them to stop them moving fore or aft and they've not ever been close to being blown over. The rear stays are also tapered, allow the targets to be nested right behind each other for compact storage.






































Indeed the ease of their transport when being dragged backwards can be demonstrated by this archer from NSW pulling it along with only one hand.


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## Stash (Jun 1, 2002)

These are the stands we use at our club. I don't know if they were copied from elsewhere or an original design.

http://www.archersofcaledon.org/docs/ButtPlan.pdf


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## TexARC (Mar 5, 2003)

whiz-Oz said:


> These are a few photos of the target stands designed by Brendan Wallace at the Canberra Archery Club in Canberra, Australia.


These stands are missing something very muchly - they need a propeller! They look so cool, so much like a sopwith camel, all they need is snoopy on top with a propeller in the front!
Wow! For any archer with a quiverfull of arrows, trying to lug a stand with a whitetail some 10 or 20 meters without dinging an ankle or actually injuring themselves with a pulled muscle in the back, these stands look awfully cool.
How can I get a set of plans and photos and permission, to put on the TSAA website to go with the set from Diamond Valley Archery, purty please?  
With full credit, attribution, and links to your primary website of course!


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## whiz-Oz (Jul 19, 2007)

Well, help yourself to the photos of them. They're all from the Archery Related photos gallery at Glide.net.au  All photos there can be used for non commercial purposes without permission and commercial purposes with permission. 

As for plans, there were drawings at some point in time, but they've gone missing. Might be time to measure things up again.. and take some dedicated photos that show the construction. 
As you'd figure though, the exact dimensions aren't that important. All you REALLY need to be able to do is fully support a 122cm Target so that the gold is at the right height and the edges of the target still stop the arrows. 
The styrofoam makes it lightweight and slows arrows well and the center of pallet wrap is durable, cheap, easily replaced and is easy to pull arrows from. Wiping your arrows gets rid of the little plastic smears if you feel the need to worry about it. My synthetic fur lined anti rattle quiver accomplishes that for me with little effort.


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## DaveInAZ (Apr 5, 2013)

Very cool. Thanks for sharing. I noticed a comment in the plans for this folding stand stating that the front legs were getting slightly dinged up from arrows missing the target. It's probably not possible to eliminate that entirely, but you could minimize it by beveling the front edge of the legs. It would take a bit of extra work and more tools, but a double bevel on the front edge, so that it looks like this ^ would cause most arrows to glance off, instead of taking a divot out of the leg.


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## DWAA Archer (Oct 14, 2011)

Stash said:


> These are the stands we use at our club. I don't know if they were copied from elsewhere or an original design.
> 
> http://www.archersofcaledon.org/docs/ButtPlan.pdf


My Club use that design of target stand with a couple of modifications.

1) the front legs are on wheels making them easy to move.

2) a piece of netting is hung between the front legs to reduce the chance of arrows going into the back legs or hitting the metal tent peg in the ground behind the target.


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## massman (Jun 21, 2004)

The design posted on the Texas website is a good one. A few changes we made when assembling a stand are:

1--I used 2x3 pine building studs for the long vertical pieces. I also made the front section 1/1/2" wider that the rear section. WHY? Well... I used a short piece of the same stock I used for the spreader support that hold the legs apart and is the two arms that stick out the front to support the target. This piece is app. 6 inches long and it fits between the front & back legs where the pivot bolt goes through. This allows space of the spreader piece to fit and allow the stand to fold up more compactly. I also use 3/8" lag bolts to securing the spreader arms at the front & back legs and at the pivot joint at the top. 3/8 X 2 at the arms to legs joints & 3/8 x 3 for the pivot. These are cheaper than purchasing 3/8" bolts, washers & hex-nuts.

So materials wide I use 2x3 pine studs for the verticals. 1/2" x 6" x ? plywood for the horizontal spreaders between legs and 1" x 3" x ? poplar for the arms.

I'll try and supply pictures later.

Regards,

Tom


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## massman (Jun 21, 2004)

I've had this stand sitting in the weather for the past 8 years. It still is holding up.


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## massman (Jun 21, 2004)

Here are a few other views.


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