# Hunting recurve length vs. draw length



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

NC - 

5'9" and a 25" draw length? Possible, but pretty unlikely. 
Have it measured with the right equipment by some one who knows what they are doing. 

Viper1 out.


----------



## Bowmania (Jan 3, 2003)

In addition, if someone who knows what they are doing did come up with 25, once you learned how to shoot you'd probably be back at your compound draw length. Longer is always better.

Bowmania


----------



## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

Recurve draw length shorter than compound is a symptom or either incorrect setup on the compound or incorrect technique with the recurve in my experience. 

Grant


----------



## Halfcawkt (Dec 27, 2015)

The red stag, deermaster, and nighthawk are all 60" bows, or you could go with shorter ILF riser and short limbs to get under 62". Clearance of objects in the environment is the biggest thing you give up with a 62", but you gain quite a bit of forgiveness in basic form and release deficiencies. I almost bought the phantom. It has a really good looking riser, but wanted 60 instead, so bought a nighthawk. My Kodiak mag is 52" and is a lovely shooter when I do my part. ...But, if I don't, it cries foul before the shaft has cleared the riser. Just be aware that shorter bows can be difficult to shoot well. (I'm still learning too.)


----------



## rsarns (Sep 23, 2008)

Viper1 said:


> NC -
> 
> 5'9" and a 25" draw length? Possible, but pretty unlikely.
> Have it measured with the right equipment by some one who knows what they are doing.
> ...


Unless his nickname is "T-Rex", I agree. More like 27-28" DL.


----------



## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

Your compound DL sounds spot on and very typical for your height but?....unless you lost a limb since leaving wheelbows?...there's no way you lost 3"s of DL.

My guess is the 45# hold weight has you moving your head way forward and hunch in to meet the string there.

Where hold weight is greatly reduced.


----------



## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

I agree that your draw length of 25" seems suspect, if you draw 28" on a compound once you learn how to shoot a stickbow you will be close to the same. Whatever your draw length is, in general, the longer the bow the nicer it will be to shoot.

If it were me, I wouldn't consider a bow less than 60", and longer is even better. I draw 29" and prefer my 64" recurves to my 62" and 60" bows.


----------



## crazyhoyt (May 30, 2011)

Been my experience from long time compound shooter that most archers shoot to long of DL with there compound. I see it all the time while tuning others bows, must be a macho thing as they get pissed when you tell them there DL is to long. My DL is 26" with both compound and recurve. If my DL is much shorter than that with my recurves it simply means I'm over bowed. But you never wanna tell someone that, my god, them there fighting words. Lol


----------



## crazyhoyt (May 30, 2011)

I also like a 60" recurve , despite my short DL. Been working great for years. I do shoot a kodiak mag pretty well but still prefer 60".


----------



## Halfcawkt (Dec 27, 2015)

You guys gotta be right. I'm only 5'7" and have a consistent 28 1/2" DL


----------



## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

Since when do we measure draw length from the back of the riser??? :grin: Maybe this will help him... http://www.learn-archery.com/proper-draw-length.html#md


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Tom -

Ever since AMO began setting standard, circa late 1960s. 

BTW - 
I generally tell people that if a "pro-shop" tries to measure your draw length as described in your link (or something similar) , you should thank the guy and immediately walk out.

But you knew that, right, 

Viper1 out.


----------



## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

Viper1 said:


> Tom -
> 
> Ever since AMO began setting standard, circa late 1960s.
> 
> ...


Actually I wasn't paying attention to the nuances of this.. Manufacturers versus the General Use... and regarding "back of the bow" that's a brain full of cauliflower naturally.... :grin:

AMO DRAW LENGTH STANDARD
For Manufacturers
Draw length is a specified distance, or the distance at the archer’s full draw, from the nocking point on the string to the pivot point of the bow grip (or the theoreti-
cal vertical projection of a tangency line to the pivot point parallel to the string)plus 1 3/4”. Draw length from pivot point shall be designed at DLPP and shall be
called TRUE DRAW LENGTH. EXAMPLE: 26 1/4” DLPP plus 1 3/4” is the equivalent of 28” draw.

For Dealers and General Use
For practical reasons not requiring precise terms, draw length is the distance, at the archer’s full draw, from the nocking point on the string to the back of the bow
at the arrow rest.

EXPLANATION: The standard Manufacturers is consistent with the Bow Weight Standard as related to the pivot point. The DLPP plus 1 3/4” is compatible to previous concepts of draw length. (See handle illustration.) Draw length for Dealers and General Use relieves the burden of preciseness not required for general use and facilitates determining arrow length. THIS STANDARD SUPERSEDES THE PREVIOUS STANDARD

Lastly... go to defense here is that I supercede AMO.... :laugh:


----------



## NCBuckNBass (Mar 5, 2005)

Draw length was measured with a 15 pound kids bow and an Easton draw length arrow. I'm positive my draw is 28.25 with my compound and it's perfect. We measured the kids bow to back of riser---I did not add in the 1.75" to what we got. I mentioned the true draw measurement in my first post. I've read two places just this week that new recurve shooters often drop 1.5 to 2.0 inches from what they had in a compound. Regardless, let's just say for the sake of argument I'm 27" draw----what's the best hunting bow length for that?


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

NC - 

Well, those two places were wrong (assuming the "new recurve shooters" weren't over-bowed or taught incorrectly). Sorry, unless you're doing something really bizarre with one of the anchors, the usual variance is on the order of a half inch between compound and recurve. BTW - a 15# KID'S bow should not be used as a draw check bow (unless it's really just a light-weight adult bow), since it will most likely stack at an adult's draw length and you don't add 1.75" to the measurement taken from the back of the bow. 

OK, if you've been reading any of Asbell's books, then all bets are off. The form he describes can easily cause you to loose 2" of draw needlessly. 

Bottom line: you should be drawing the recurve the exact same way you draw the compound. 

@27", you can use anything from 58" to 64" with impunity (IMHO, of course). Going on the shorter end of the spectrum MAY increase speed slightly and going longer will be smoother - assuming the bows are of similar design. The differences aren't worth writing home about. However, there may be a felt difference in stability and finger pinch, and those are factors to consider. If you plan on hunting from a tree or blind, then that has to be taken into consideration too. 

Perhaps you've noticed a lot of qualifiers in the above. We can't see you from here, so all we have is a statement that there's up to a 2" difference between your compound and recurve draw lengths, and you're questioning the best length hunting bow, based solely on draw length. The former, while possible, will send up a number of red flags to most experienced shooters and the latter becomes more a matter of personal preference that functionality. Not what you wanted to hear, but reality.

Viper1 out.


----------



## NCBuckNBass (Mar 5, 2005)

Got your book and his.

I spent about a zillion hours of my youth shooting a wrist rocket. I could do things with it that even astonish me now after 40 years looking back on it. I think I shoot a recurve the same way and it's hard coded in my brain. Maybe that's why my draw is short. 

If I wanted to shoot the same way as my compound I would just shoot my compound......and buy the latest C.J. Box book...........hardback... and not wait on the paperback to come out.


----------



## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

NC - 

That might just explain it. 
You can certainly shoot your bows anyway you like, but if you are really into the Asbell thing, most of the stuff we tell you, or you seem to be concerned about just won't matter. For example, 2" of draw length is huge, not only in terms of performance, but will prevent you from getting decent shoulder geometry (alignment). Not a problem for close in hunting shots (it's certainly been done), but can become a limiting factor for anything thing else. 

Viper1 out.


----------



## dgmeadows (Jun 15, 2005)

I believe the OP may be trying to say they measured 25" from nock bend to the inside of the grip, not realizing that the "back of the bow" is technically considered the side opposite of the shooter. If you add the 1.75" to 25, he is still somewhat shorter than his compound DL, so the "Asbell draw effect" may make up that additional ~1.5".


----------



## dgmeadows (Jun 15, 2005)

I would also add that 28.5" AMO/ATA draw on a compound for someone 5'7" seems a touch long. I am 5'9", athletic build and my draw length setting for compounds is 27.5" - the D loop adds about .50" so if I were shooting the compound with fingers, I could set it to the 28 or 28.5" setting. I note these are lengths measured on a draw board, not necessarily what the manufacturers list for the module settings, as those can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, model to model, and year to year.

And, I should note that, 25+ years ago, a "Pro Shop" measured me and said I should shoot a bow set up at 29". I shot it well and killed many deer, but when I got into competitive archery and read up on proper form, I realized my bows were set too long. I don't understand the ego thing about draw length, either, but it sure exists. I would say that it is because guys hate to give up fps speed, but most of them don't seem to recognize that draw length is a factor in determining how many fps your bow will produce.


----------



## ahunter55 (Aug 17, 2009)

Regardless a 60" or less bow gives you more finger pinch & more critical when you make release mistakes. I started in 1956 b/4 compounds & "MY" favorite length bow for hunting was a 64" bow.. American Archery Cheetah in fact. I did use some 60" bows in that time & though I shot some 60#s majority were 55#s. My draw (I'm 5'8" when I stretch) was just a hair over 28" at the front of the bow & I always shot a 29" arrow. I just started shooting Longbow last year using a 50#, 68" bow & my draw is 28" & again, I shoot a 29" arrow. I anchor differently with my compound & shoot a 27 1/2" arrow & this can be difference in draw length..
Anchors can vary so much depending on split finger or 3 under. 3 under are probably shorter unless they lean back as all are just under the eye. Keep you head "straight" your bow arm stretched as it should be & draw to your anchor & check a few times "without" shooting. Most just starting will increase in DL as they get used to their tackle.. A few at full draw from this years past NFAA outdoor Nationals


----------



## oldnewby (Oct 13, 2015)

I am confused by this business of what "draw length" really means. The AMO is supposed to reduce the amount of confusion by introducing standards ; but I am afraid that it has increased the confusion by using two definitions of "draw length". When people talk about what their draw length is, or when Stu Miller's arrow-spine calculator asks us to input our personal draw length, or when we estimate someone's draw length by measuring them, wingtip to wingtip and dividing by 2.5, or when we estimate how many pounds we are pulling on that 45-pound bow by adding or subtracting 2 pounds for each inch of draw length above or below 28 inches, what "draw length" are we supposed to be talking about -- the DLPP (measured to the deepest part of the grip) or the DLPP plus 1 3/4" ?


----------



## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

oldnewby said:


> I am confused by this business of what "draw length" really means. The AMO is supposed to reduce the amount of confusion by introducing standards ; but I am afraid that it has increased the confusion by using two definitions of "draw length". When people talk about what their draw length is, or when Stu Miller's arrow-spine calculator asks us to input our personal draw length, or when we estimate someone's draw length by measuring them, wingtip to wingtip and dividing by 2.5, or when we estimate how many pounds we are pulling on that 45-pound bow by adding or subtracting 2 pounds for each inch of draw length above or below 28 inches, what "draw length" are we supposed to be talking about -- the DLPP (measured to the deepest part of the grip) or the DLPP plus 1 3/4" ?


In general people are referring to the measurement from the bottom of the nock to the deepest part of the grip, plus 1.75". The 1.75" is just an agreed upon value to account for the issue that the actual distance from the deepest part of the grip to the back of the bow is different from bow to bow.

In addition, what is actually the "back" of the bow can be up for debate depending on the shape of the riser and grip.

You are correct, if everybody is not using the same definition it's confusing.


----------



## Hank D Thoreau (Dec 9, 2008)

The reason draw length is defined the way it is is because it can be easily measured that way. Just pull a graduated arrow back and read it at the back of the bow. You can then measure the distance from the pivot point to the back of the bow and make a correction if it does not equal 1 3/4 inches. 1 3/4 works for most Olympic style risers. You will need to make a correction for longbows which are normally narrower. This is much easier than trying to measure at the pivot point where you hand is gripping the bow.


----------

