# Homemade Lighted Nocks using Bobber Lights



## t-roys (Oct 12, 2009)

Well since I'm planning on going hog hunting here in the near future, I figured I might be doing some night hunting. I wanted to look into getting some lighted nocks, but didn't want to pay $10 each for them. I had been doing some research on Youtube and google searches and came across a few different approaches. This is by no means my idea, I got this from another forum but thought I would share it here. This is not a fix all or clear cut instruction for doing this. There are betters out there and I think some being sold on here that are probably better. I'm just a tight wad and love to play around with things like this. If you damage your arrows, nocks, or bobber lights, don't blame me. I ruined one light when I was trying to make mine work. 

To do this, I used need some clear nocks, some LED bobber lights, some super glue, and some pieces of 1/4" dowel rod. I didn't glue my bobber lights to the nocks or inside the arrow so they can be removed. The only modification that is done is to add a small piece of dowel rod as a stop inside your arrow. The weight of the dowel piece is minimal. 

I used bobber lights I picked up at Academy for $3 or $4.









They are very bright!









I cut a piece of 1/4" dowel about 1/4" to 3/8" in length. Sand it slightly so it will fit inside your arrow. My arrows are .246 and the dowel rod was .250 so a little sanding had to be done. Dowel rods aren't perfect so test yours out before sanding. After cutting, I pushed the dowel into the arrow and then used the bobber light in the nock to push the dowel in to the correct depth. When the bobber light is on, it is pushed in so turn it on and then push the dowel in. I left my nock about 1/16" from being fully seated into the arrow just in case the nocks or the LED lights weren't all the same. I then removed the nock and the light and dropped a few drops of super glue to secure the dowel. Let it dry and then test it out.









Here is the finished product!









Like I said, "Try this at your own risk!"


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## sneakysnake (Feb 17, 2010)

Where did you buy the clear nocks and lights at? Like the idea and want to make some myself.


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## d3ue3ce (Jul 2, 2009)

how do you turn the lights on and off?


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## boneheadjaz (Feb 22, 2010)

I am also interested in how to shut the light off


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## t-roys (Oct 12, 2009)

sneakysnake said:


> Where did you buy the clear nocks and lights at? Like the idea and want to make some myself.


They came with my arrows. I don't know where to buy them. I have some Carbon Express Terminators and that's what they came with. I have also tried green and red. Both work good.



d3ue3ce said:


> how do you turn the lights on and off?


As far as turning them off, I just pull out my nock and pop the light off. You pull out on the LED to shut it off. When you want to use them, just push in on your nock and seat it in all the way in the arrow. They come on and don't shut them off till you turn em off. I thought that would be good if I'm trying to find my arrow after a shot.


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## sneakysnake (Feb 17, 2010)

Thanks, Will be ordering some so.


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## t-roys (Oct 12, 2009)

If ya find the clear nocks, lemme know where. I would like to get some more!


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## sahrpshooter (Aug 6, 2007)

where did you get the rod?

and or lights at?


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## t-roys (Oct 12, 2009)

The wooden rod is just dowel rod from the hardware store. The LED's came frome Academy Sports
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## empty hull (Jul 18, 2010)

I went to buy some Nocturnals at BPS today and they are out. After searching the forum, I have a question. How do your arrows fly after this installation. Since this is 7 months later, how are the lights holding up? Thanks, Tim


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## robertyb (Jul 19, 2004)

Just drill a small hole up through the nock and apply a tad of 5 minute epoxy to the top edge of the light and stick it into the nock thus gluing the on off button to the nock. Now you simply pull on the nock a tad to turn the light off and the light shines through your nock no matter what color nock you use. There is a video on Utube about making your own but they say to use super glue. The epoxy works better and does not run into and jam your on off button.


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## Jellio (Sep 5, 2007)

I've made them before using a pin just heat the head or pointy end of the pin up to red hot and stick it threw the nock and into the plastic portion of the light let it cool off and cut it of flush remember to take an old knock and cut the shoulder off and glue it to the other end of the light......it's to much messing around and not garunteed to work for the $10 you would spend on a burt coyote...I'm one of the cheapest out there but I buy luminoks.


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## steinb3rg (Aug 25, 2010)

I've made some like this before but I dont turn them on before i knock my arrow. If you push the led all the way into the nock until it turns on, you can use that as a depth marker for your plug. Add a little super glue or epoxy to the plug to hold it in place. Remove nock and pull out on light to turn off. Now place it back into the arrow without going all the way in. Leave approximately a 1/16 of an inch. The plug will act as a backstop. When you release the string, the pressure will push the nock the last little bit into the arrow, thus lighting the nock. To turn off, just remove and pull out on led. Repeat and enjoy. 

I am not a fan of having the nock lit while on the bow because i have had it cast shadows and I fear it could spook an animal. Just my two $0.02.


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## tats51 (Oct 7, 2008)

you can buy the LED bobber lights in the fishing section at walmart. thats where i bought them and they were pretty cheap.


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## newram05 (Aug 23, 2009)

i've never found them at Walmart but Dicks Sporting goods has them. I have ruined a bunch with superglue trying to glue them to the nock for easy on/off. just take your nock off and pull light out after you shoot, easier than spending more money to buy new lights after you mess it up with super glue.


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## BigRed1439 (Jun 9, 2010)

pretty cool wish you could make a Video of them working ...


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## t-roys (Oct 12, 2009)

I do have a couple. I'll have to upload them to Youtube. Since deer season has not started here in Kansas, I haven't got a chance to try them out on deer. I've shot 5 hogs with them and they work great.


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## EGlock86 (Aug 15, 2010)

GA lost to Ark. ukey:


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## t-roys (Oct 12, 2009)

They are tough this year! They are 3-0 It's about time they come around. Been a rough few years....


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## sczar (Sep 18, 2010)

You can find those clear nocks here.. http://www.bowhunterssuperstore.com/nocks-carbon-express-c-52_245.html http://www.bowhunterssuperstore.com/nocks-flexfletch-c-52_1955.html
Lots of colors of lights also http://www.rod-n-bobbs.com/index.php?page=prodList&by=type&by_id=BatteryLights


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## bohmer2 (May 14, 2010)

sczar said:


> You can find those clear nocks here.. http://www.bowhunterssuperstore.com/nocks-carbon-express-c-52_245.html http://www.bowhunterssuperstore.com/nocks-flexfletch-c-52_1955.html
> Lots of colors of lights also http://www.rod-n-bobbs.com/index.php?page=prodList&by=type&by_id=BatteryLights


I just want to say those prices seem high to me for the lights. I realize they have a larger variety of colors, but the hawglite shop is selling 10 lights for $22 Plus shipping, or 20 lights for $40 plus shipping. http://www.hawglite.com/pro_shop.php So if you can be happy with red lights this seems to be the biggest bargain place to buy the lights and to me at least beats paying $15 for 3 lights.


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## stevezt4 (Jan 27, 2008)

Can u just buy the replacement lights or do u have to buy the lighted knocks first and then use the replacemen light.


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## bohmer2 (May 14, 2010)

stevezt4 said:


> Can u just buy the replacement lights or do u have to buy the lighted knocks first and then use the replacemen light.


From the link I posted you should be able to just buy the replacement lights, I have in the past anyway.


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## Kooty (Nov 13, 2009)

FYI: for anyone thinking of doing this with Easton ST Axis, the Thill lights won't fit into the knock. Luckily I tested at home prior to buying the extra knocks and lights.


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## t-roys (Oct 12, 2009)

Depending on the knock, you may need to get a small drill bit and drill it out. I had to do that for my buddies arrows and my sons. It's not a exact science. I just like to build stuff and hate paying $10 for a lighted nock. 

As far as the lights, the ones I bought from Academy have been the best. I bought 20 or so lights from Hawglite and to tell you the truth, half of them never work. So at that price, I'm paying about the same price as the ones I get from Academy. I jumped on the chance to get em cheap, but now I'm paying for it


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## sketter (Mar 3, 2009)

* * * NICE * * * Good Thread ....


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## Leon Garfield (Feb 2, 2008)

Clear nocks are Carbon express nocks.


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

Does anyone know if one type of light is brighter than the other? Thill or rod-N-bobs?


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## t-roys (Oct 12, 2009)

I've always used the red/orange colored lights with orange or clear knocks. I'm sure brightness would be about the same. I would try to match knock color and led color probably.


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## BowmanPa (Oct 26, 2006)

I bought my lights from http://www.hawglite.com/pro_shop.php also. Great price.

Check this out. This is how I make mine.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=761790&p=1055660785#post1055660785

#179


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## t-roys (Oct 12, 2009)

As I said above, it seems you get what you pay for when it comes to the price of LED's or at least I did. I have not went back to Hawlite since about half of what I bought would not work.


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

So, for instance, if you have the red LED, would it be brighter in a clear nock or transparent red nock? I am guessing the clear, but don't know from experience.


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

I am thinking about building mine the way a guy posted on here a while back. He drills a 11/64 hole through the nock and that allows the end of the light to stick out of the hole. This way the string actually engages the on switch, and there is no need for a stopper as the battery part is glued to the nock. Another small hole can be drilled in the side of the nock to turn it off with a small knife or screwdriver. Anyone made them like this?


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## robinfly (Sep 2, 2007)

Thanks, I just ordered 3 rob-n-bobbs beacon from gander mountain w/free shipping. 3 lights for less then $9.00
Can't wait to make my own.


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## bowhntng4evr (Dec 18, 2009)

Thanks, I just ordered three from Gander Mountain. Cost me $9 for everything. I have a couple nocks laying around. Can't wait to make some lighted nocks.


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## Timb0w (Mar 27, 2009)

Sounds dangerous, the integrity of the nock is compromised when you drill into the side of it.


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## Krypt Keeper (Oct 10, 2007)

I don't drill a hole in my nock, I did have to lightly sand down the plastic around the led with 400 grit to make it fit properly into my nock on the Thill lights but the Rd and bobs didn't need it. 

also use pencil erasers in my arrow, (got lots of them with a 5yr old drawing and sharpening all the time but never erases anything) no glue required but you can put a drop down there if it makes you feel better. 

drop of glue on edge of plastic on LED, turn on and push the eraser into the arrow. 

I use green lights on see through neon green nocks.


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## Krypt Keeper (Oct 10, 2007)

just remembered I had a pic on my phone. 

excuse my sorry grouping but was mainly testing the lights :shade: 

my niece was at the house waiting on my wife and thought they were the neatest thing watching the green streak. 

Dave


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

Hey Kript Keeper, I see that you have tried both brands of lights. Is one any brighter than the other? The Thill's are the only ones available locally and i hav been wondering if there would be any benefit in ordering the Rod N Bobs. thanks


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## Krypt Keeper (Oct 10, 2007)

I can't tell any difference in the green lights. I have read that the red LED lights are brighter than the green. I just went with the green as my nocks were already that color. 

In the picture I posted, it has 2 rod and bob lights and 1 Thill. I can't tell any difference in the brightness. Also can't tell them apart once they are glued in. 

Proabably made by the same company for both of them, just different collars around the LED to slighty to make them different.


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

That's what I figured, but when you said one was a smaller diameter than the other I thought you meant battery and all. I do think the red is a bit brighter than the green, but both of those are way brighter than the orange. I got to use one on a yote and it worked perfect, but it was made another way.


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## Krypt Keeper (Oct 10, 2007)

sorry about that.. the little plastic collar that goes around and protects the LED is what i had to sand down. wasn't much just a few seconds with some 400 grit and was good to go. 

i might try some red ones one day. but right now I am enjoying the green.


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## ShootinStix (Nov 23, 2009)

http://www.a1archerystore.com/produ...opping&utm_medium=click&utm_campaign=shopping

Clear nocks and many other types...


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## SPIKER_67 (Nov 7, 2007)

I'm glad that some of you guys have been able to make these Thill Bobber lighted nocks without any problems. None of the nocks that I made lasted more than a few shots. I think it has something to do with the nock being slammed into the shaft with force. This leads to inaccuracy, and wear.

That said...Nockturnal has perfected the Thill Bobber light design, and for the money, I would rather go with them. I have 100+ shots on the first test pack that I bought.(Test pack for my own purposes).

I like the fact that the nock doesn't get slammed into the shaft on the shot as they have incorporated a little "plunger" that activates the light. This also makes the nock lighter. 

I've spent more money in broken Thills than the Nocturnals cost me in the end.


JMHO.


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## Krypt Keeper (Oct 10, 2007)

I have probably 20 or so shots on mine. I tested one out this past Saturday evening on a doe. :teeth: 

it fired to life on release, arrow busted through rib, internals and part of another rib on other side, and arrow was still in the deer as she ran off. She got about 20 or so yards and the broadhead must have got hung up on the holly bush I found it next to pulling the arrow clean out of her. Arrow shaft broken about 8 inches from nock almost in half. 

found the doe another 20 - 30 yards away. 1st bow kill for me. :shade:

Nock in perfect shape ready to be used again, arrow done for, broadhead needs sharpening, deer on the menu.


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## t-roys (Oct 12, 2009)

I have shot one of mine through about 5 hogs now. No problems yet. Still using the same bobber light and arrow.


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## Buckeroo (Feb 1, 2008)

I have been making my lighted nocks this way for almost three years now. I still have 4 out of the 6 arrows from last year that are running strong. I have had a few issues with glueing on some but other than that these are by far the CHEAPEST and easiest to make on your own. It ost roughly 4.10 to make one of these nocks. Good Luck.


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## sczar (Sep 18, 2010)

I used a small cork, pushed it in till it got tight, cut the rest off with a razor saw, then pushed the cork down where it needed to be. Cork fits nice and tight and has less weight.


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## jdenkman (Dec 20, 2010)

just wanted to know if you have heard of anyone making lighted nocks with easton axis arrow with the x nock. I've heard people say it can't be done I bought a thill light and think they could be right the light is to big. Just wonderd if you've heard the same I have some carbon express thou that might work


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## sketter (Mar 3, 2009)

This is good too see >>>>>>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09vvs56GjrE&feature=related


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## jdenkman (Dec 20, 2010)

Has Anyone heard about archers flame lighted nocks


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