# New Finger Flinger ?'s



## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

IMHO a 37" ATA bow is going to be VERY tight shooting split fingered. You might be able to get away with it if you draw split and then drop the index.

Personally I'd be looking used. Something like an older Protec with wheels would be a very familiar feeling to a recurve shooter and if you ever got the itch for speed a set of cam&1/2 would give you a bit more.

-Grant


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## Jesse Schultz (Sep 11, 2013)

I'm not saying Grant is wrong, but I have a 2005 Hoyt Rampage XT2000. It is 36 37 inches with a 6 inch BH. I have no problem shooting it. The only advice I would give is Don't get stuck in a routine. I use to shoot split fingers. Then Zesty on AT gave me advice. To shoot 2 or 3 under and my shooting improved. I shoot 2 under


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## Supermag1 (Jun 11, 2009)

It all depends on you and what you're comfortable with. There is NO set minimum length that works for fingers, despite what many on here try to tell you. If you are comfortable and successful with it, that's all that matters.


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## zestycj7 (Sep 24, 2010)

Try as many bows as you can shoot, the right bow will pick you, meaning it will feel just right in the draw cycle, holding weight and how it feels on the shot.
Just have fun.
Don.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Supermag1 said:


> It all depends on you and what you're comfortable with. There is NO set minimum length that works for fingers, despite what many on here try to tell you. If you are comfortable and successful with it, that's all that matters.


Generally I agree with this statement. If it works for you then don't let the haters sway you. 

Now what I will say is that the string angle isn't all about pinch. Yes of course there can be some pain and fatigue centered around the pinching but it also effects your release. If you fingers are all jammed in there they simply don't release off the string as cleanly. Now if you're mostly hunting then the shorter bow will probably be fine but if you also want to compete then I would go with a longer bow say something around 41" minimum 45 to 47 optimum. But as stated above this is my experience and opinion.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

Big difference in ATA requirements between someone shooting 2 or 3 under and split, at least in my experience.

To the OP: If you ever want to be a good barebow archer you should go 3 under now before split becomes too familiar. Split is really only an advantage if you want to shoot with sights at long range.

-Grant


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## EmprOviseD Yeti (Dec 1, 2013)

I appreciate all of the advice and will try the Rally again 3 under. Biggest gripe to me is that no one within a 300 mile radius of me even stocks any type of target bow. Even what I would term the "boutique" archery shops selling athens, G5 etc, none of them have anything with a forgiving brace height or length longer than 33-ish. I know next to nothing about compounds and so buying something without trying is something I am hesitant to do, mainly because any work to get DL set will have to be an additional cost that I fork over to a bow tech, IF they can or are willing to work on said bow.

After goofing around with my self-made PVC bows today I might also try the Rally with a D-loop, and a thumb ring and try a "semi" monoglian style draw/release. It's not that I am against releases, just really enjoy using my hand. I am much more proud of a nice tight grouping at 20 yards with my recurve, than with a compound since it feels like I "did" more. If that makes any sense. Plus if I wanted sub-MOA accuracy out of a projectile launching weapon I would just use my P-415. Sometimes I wish I was in an area that had more to offer archery enthusiasts than just going hunting.


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## OhioRed (Feb 7, 2009)

EmprOviseD Yeti said:


> I appreciate all of the advice and will try the Rally again 3 under. Biggest gripe to me is that no one within a 300 mile radius of me even stocks any type of target bow. Even what I would term the "boutique" archery shops selling athens, G5 etc, none of them have anything with a forgiving brace height or length longer than 33-ish. I know next to nothing about compounds and so buying something without trying is something I am hesitant to do, mainly because any work to get DL set will have to be an additional cost that I fork over to a bow tech, IF they can or are willing to work on said bow.
> 
> After goofing around with my self-made PVC bows today I might also try the Rally with a D-loop, and a thumb ring and try a "semi" monoglian style draw/release. It's not that I am against releases, just really enjoy using my hand. I am much more proud of a nice tight grouping at 20 yards with my recurve, than with a compound since it feels like I "did" more. If that makes any sense. Plus if I wanted sub-MOA accuracy out of a projectile launching weapon I would just use my P-415. Sometimes I wish I was in an area that had more to offer archery enthusiasts than just going hunting.


I'm currently shooting an Athens excell and loving it! Where are you located?


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

Buying used is pretty darn safe and a really easy way to get more for your buck. Many good Martin finger bows can be adjusted with no press which does make for an easy time doing DIY tuning. You'd be hard pressed to find something better than a Shadowcat.

-Grant


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

EmprOviseD Yeti....for wheel bow creds?....at one time a couple decades back I was ranked 2nd in the state of Florida shooting fingers/compound NFAA/FAA...and while there's been a number of good bows mentioned here?...as far as finger bows go?...I can assure you that this is one of the all time greats...a Cadillac of a finger shooting bow...A "Hoyt Aspen"...50-60#'s....adjustable 28-32" draw length...and in "woods ready" camo finish....



















and for $400 negotiable?....it's for sale right now...right here at the following link...and being sold by a man who I know has this bow more pristinely tuned and timed than anything you'd drag out of a big box store or buy new....

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2191959&highlight=aspen

and if I didn't already have a hoyt protec I grabbed for $275 (but needed new strings and cables) and then laced it up with a new set of custom ordered JBK BCY "X" rigging?...you wouldn't be seeing this right now because this bow would be mine...this bow is not the fastest finger shooting thing out there but it is arguably one of the smoothest drawing and shooting finger bows you'll ever run across.

and the man selling it is one he11 of an archer and holds an extremely reputable standing in this community.

I'd jump on it...with zero hesitation...cause it may not last long.

Hope that helps and L8R, Bill. :cool2:


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## EmprOviseD Yeti (Dec 1, 2013)

Well shoot, wish my job didn't keep me oddly busy or I would have jumped all over that one. Thx for the help tho. Still looking around guy down in southern MO says he has some used stuff I could look at.

On another point does anyone know if a RH centershot short ATA compound, fitted with a d-loop can be shot/tuned with a thumb draw?

Or would the reverse paradox still require a LH riser?


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## Paul68 (Jul 20, 2012)

grantmac said:


> Big difference in ATA requirements between someone shooting 2 or 3 under and split, at least in my experience.
> 
> To the OP: If you ever want to be a good barebow archer you should go 3 under now before split becomes too familiar. Split is really only an advantage if you want to shoot with sights at long range.
> 
> -Grant


Grant, et al, where is your anchor with 3-under? I've been shooting split with a glove and anchoring in the corner of my mouth for a few decades, but have decided to mix it up and try shooting a split tab and anchoring under my chin. As I shoot barebow, the results have been humorous, but I'm having fun. The draw and hold actually feel a lot more natural holding under the chin, but my "sub-conscious" sight picture is almost in vertigo. My barebow sight is set to "hope and a prayer." 

For those drawing three under and dropping (with a tab), have you cut your tab away from the drop finger?


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

Paul68 said:


> Grant, et al, where is your anchor with 3-under? I've been shooting split with a glove and anchoring in the corner of my mouth for a few decades, but have decided to mix it up and try shooting a split tab and anchoring under my chin. As I shoot barebow, the results have been humorous, but I'm having fun. The draw and hold actually feel a lot more natural holding under the chin, but my "sub-conscious" sight picture is almost in vertigo. My barebow sight is set to "hope and a prayer."
> 
> For those drawing three under and dropping (with a tab), have you cut your tab away from the drop finger?


well I geuss I'll be "et al" because anchor had become a real dilemma to me recently as while I got real comfy hooking the back of my jaw?...I started having a problem whereby when I started expanding to pull through the shot?...my string hand was leaving my hard points and floating unless I move my head with it and my lips/nose into the string path...so following Grants (and Kenn1320) advice?...I tried a slightly higher anchor where instead creeping in to hook the back of my jaw?...I'm burying my index knuckle (at the hand) into THE FRONT intersection of my jawbone and cheekbone...and it's working wonderfully (when I do everything else right) whereby there is *no creeping into it but drawing back against it*...where instead of going into "float mode"?...my anchor just gets tighter and tighter and seated deeper and deeper aND?...blam!...she's off! :laugh:

Hope that helps and L8R, Bill. :cool2:


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## Paul68 (Jul 20, 2012)

JINKSTER said:


> well I geuss I'll be "et al" because anchor had become a real dilemma to me recently as while I got real comfy hooking the back of my jaw?...I started having a problem whereby when I started expanding to pull through the shot?...my string hand was leaving my hard points and floating unless I move my head with it and my lips/nose into the string path...so following Grants (and Kenn1320) advice?...I tried a slightly higher anchor where instead creeping in to hook the back of my jaw?...I'm burying my index knuckle (at the hand) into THE FRONT intersection of my jawbone and cheekbone...and it's working wonderfully (when I do everything else right) whereby there is *no creeping into it but drawing back against it*...where instead of going into "float mode"?...my anchor just gets tighter and tighter and seated deeper and deeper aND?...blam!...she's off! :laugh:
> 
> Hope that helps and L8R, Bill. :cool2:


Bill,

I'm sitting here jamming various knuckle points into my face, and my wife thinks I've gone crazy... Ha! I'm not sure if I'm tracking, because it seems like this technique would actually change your DL a bit? No? I spent an hour on the range today, playing with different set ups. I became most comfortable with three under, and anchoring the nock into the corner of my mouth. I'm getting MUCH better right/left gauging with this (lining them up like a ladder). My release is so much cleaner than with a glove you would think I scrubbed it with bleach. I'll just need a lot of work to re-gauge my eye for the distances, but again, I'm having a lot of fun with this. 

Thanks for the feedback. 

Paul


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## T2SHOOTER (Feb 26, 2014)

Coming back after 25 year absence. Looking at a Supra and Conquest 4, and have a few questions. I used to shooting glove, but can't find one that works, yet. My draw length is 25" and I'll be pulling 53#, and I'll only be shooting targets and 3D. Any help on arrow selection, sight, and rest would be helpful. I'm looking to shoot BHFSL. With one bow at 37" and the other at 40" ATA and me shooting 25DL, I'll probably not have any finger pinch problems.


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