# Form, DL Check



## 4ester (Jul 8, 2011)

Bump


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

4ester said:


> Any advice or issues you guys see?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Get target off the floor. Get middle of target all the way up to your arrow height, so the arrow can be DEAD LEVEL. New photo. More like this.



Why the tape on the wall behind the shooter? So, you can check your own photo and redo the photo as many many times as you need to redo the photo, until you get your bow hand HIGH enough,
so that the arrow is dead parallel to the tape on the wall behind you, in your next photo.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

4ester said:


> Any advice or issues you guys see?


Camera phone on a chair, pointing 45 degrees straight up, just doesn't work. Get camera phone lens all the way up to the same height as your arrow, 
take off the cap, put on shoes, triple the distance between you and the camera phone, so we can see the floor, your SHOES, no cap on your head, and all of you head to toe, and all of the bow.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

4ester said:


>


Your are WAY out of position for a downhill shot, anytime the arrow is pointing DOWNHILL, the backbone MUST be 90 degrees to the arrow. Translation. Lean FORWARDS, like this,
anytime you point the arrow downhill.



Why do I insist, absolutely INSIST on the dead level arrow, with shoes, standing STRAIGHT up photo? Cuz, you have zero idea about the FEEL of a 90 degree bow side armpit,
and you really have to MASTER the FEEL of the 90 degree bowside armpit, for the DEAD LEVEL shot....so that you have some chance of maintaining the 90 degree bowside armpit
on the shots where you are aiming the arrow at the floor.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

4ester said:


> Any advice or issues you guys see?


1) head not centered above zipper on jeans
2) peep is way way too high, which forces the nock WAY WAY too low on your face
3) bow hand grip is way out of whack, too much thumb muscle extruding past the right edge of the grip
4) yes, draw length is massively too long.

Need camera much higher, need lens all the way up to the same height as the arrow, to properly evaluate leverage angles for right forearm, top of thumb height, top of bow side shoulder, position (horizontal) of the neck bones in relation to center of hips/pelvis. The diagonal creases in the t-shirt already tell me you lean backwards.


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## 4ester (Jul 8, 2011)

Thanks Nuts and Bolts will try and get you some new pictures.

When I bought that bow many years ago, the bow shop sent me home with a 29.5” draw. I shortened to 28.5 because I knew this was causing issues. Will try and get some 28” modules, but any shorter and I’m gonna have a major equipment change (new cams, strings, and modules) or just a new bow.





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## 4ester (Jul 8, 2011)

Nuts & Bolts I appreciate the critiquing. The folds in my shirt are from simply raising my right arm. Hope these pics are better.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

4ester said:


> Nuts & Bolts I appreciate the critiquing. The folds in my shirt are from simply raising my right arm. Hope these pics are better.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nope. Center of your neck is not above the center of your jeans (zipper and belt buckle). You are leaning backwards, weight is not equal on both ankles.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

4ester said:


> Nuts & Bolts I appreciate the critiquing. The folds in my shirt are from simply raising my right arm. Hope these pics are better.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Rotated the photo to level, so the black tape is level.
The corner of the bowstring (where the d-loop attaches) is a ridiculous distance behind the front of your eyeball. Draw length needs to shorten.
Cuz the release hand is soooo far back behind the front of your eyeball, you have hiked up your wrist. Forearm bones are horizontal, and the bones in the back of your hand are cranked downhill, so you are lifting your wrist, basically using your wrist to hold at full draw. Doctored photo shows the NEW more FORWARDS position of your right elbow, and the right side forearm bones now in line
with the bones in the back of your hand, with the new SHORTER draw length. Green Triangle is the shape and position of your bowstring, right now. RED triangle is the new shorter shape of the new shorter draw length.



The double image of your t-shirt shows how much you lean backwards (bias for more weight on the right ankle). Most of your extra draw length, you shove your release hand WAY back on your face, and then LIFT up the right wrist, to take up the extra draw length, and your right elbow drops down out of being in line with the bones in the back of your hand. So, your forearm is not relaxed, so your wrist is super tense, cuz you hike up your wrist so high...and you have near ZERO leverage in your back muscles, cuz you are pulling with your wrist to stay at full draw, instead of pulling with your elbow and back muscles.


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## 4ester (Jul 8, 2011)

Nuts and Bolts..... if you had to put a number on DL, how much do you think I need to drop to get lined up? Was looking for modules to shorten 1/2” (to 28”) but if that’s not gonna do it I’m probably gonna be bow shopping.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

4ester said:


> Nuts and Bolts..... if you had to put a number on DL, how much do you think I need to drop to get lined up? Was looking for modules to shorten 1/2” (to 28”) but if that’s not gonna do it I’m probably gonna be bow shopping.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Try 1/2-inch shorter.


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## 4ester (Jul 8, 2011)

nuts&bolts said:


> Try 1/2-inch shorter.


Thanks. Gotta try and find some 3A Mods for my fuel cam. 


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## Dkrad1935 (Mar 31, 2020)

This is good stuff. 


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