# Hoyt Spiral Cam timing help needed



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Pics might help. I've owned and setup quite a few Hoyts since the advent of the Cam & 1/2 and can't understand your problem.


----------



## Rootbeer LX (Jan 2, 2010)

I have Spirals on my UE and have never had any problems with doing that.perhaps you have a burr in the tract??


----------



## keyman (Mar 22, 2003)

Rootbeer LX said:


> I have Spirals on my UE and have never had any problems with doing that.perhaps you have a burr in the tract??


I thought the same thing but it has now happened to on two different bows. After I twist the control cable at the other cam, I check the little round part on the bottom cam and all looks perfect with the entire control cable. First draw, and pow, the cable breaks and everything comes unwound. If it does not break on the first draw, then it is fine and will not cut it until I figure I need to time the bow again. Each time I cut the cable, then I put on a new one which undoubtedly needs timed and it has become a vicious cycle on that bow. It happened once on the other bow and I replaced the control cable but refuse to draw it back until someone can maybe tell me what to look for. It is about to drive me nuts. I am not a beginner or novice at all. It is embarrassing that I have worked on over 1000 bows in presses and now this deal is kicking my butt and I don't have a clue why it is happening.


----------



## keyman (Mar 22, 2003)

SonnyThomas said:


> Pics might help. I've owned and setup quite a few Hoyts since the advent of the Cam & 1/2 and can't understand your problem.


Pics of what? The cam looks like all other spirals and the control cables are all cut right where it leaves the round roller on the bottom spiral cam. I can post a pic of the cam but it is not the cam since it happened on two different bows. I know it is something I must be doing wrong but I sure don't see it. The first couple of times it happened, I thought maybe I just overlooked the cable being out of the track and cutting itself when drawing. Then each time I have timed the bow since then, I double and triple check it and still about half the time, it cuts the cable and I can't even see where it is doing it. I watch the bottom cam tracks as I draw it and don't see anything wrong but I feel the peak of the bow feel strange and then if I draw more or let down, it cuts itself.


----------



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

I have only a adjustable cam & 1/2 at home and then I have the brochure and Hoyt manuals. You just hook the loop on the post and wrap clockwise half around the roller and up to the top cam. It doesn't cross it self and touch nothing. So that's why I asked for a pic. I've draw stop timed the Cam & 1/2s so many times I can't see how you can get it wrong.


----------



## YankeeRebel (Dec 30, 2005)

Does your bottom Cam look like this? 









If you have the cable going over the Round and then on the post instead of under and over and then to the post this will likely be cutting your cable.


----------



## 48archer (Mar 19, 2009)

Sounds like to me you are not hooking up the cable on the cam the right way.


----------



## hrtlnd164 (Mar 22, 2008)

If you have the cable routing correct, is it possible the burr is on the draw stop and is hitting the cable as it passes by?


----------



## keyman (Mar 22, 2003)

I am not changing anything on the cam. It has been shooting fine, I put it in the press and twist the end on the upper cam and then check everything when I let off the press and draw it back and it cuts the cable. I am not routing the cable wrong since I never moved it but thanks for the threads. At least it is giving me things to consider. Thanks guys


----------



## Green River (May 13, 2006)

Is it actually cutting the cable or are you talking about serving sepperation? On my bow with spirals there is really nothing there to cut a cable that I can see.


----------



## TMan51 (Jan 25, 2004)

keyman said:


> I am not changing anything on the cam. It has been shooting fine, I put it in the press and twist the end on the upper cam and then check everything when I let off the press and draw it back and it cuts the cable. I am not routing the cable wrong since I never moved it but thanks for the threads. At least it is giving me things to consider. Thanks guys


Keyman, I've had a set of Spirals on several bows since they were hatched in 2003. Take a look at the spacers on the bottom at each side of the cam. Is the thick spacer on the draw stop side by any chance. I had a set isnstalled improperly at Hoyt that did almsot the same thing, bypassing the draw stop.
Another possible culprit is cam lean. You may have developed a weak limb, happens, but it's nearly impossible for the shooter to see/tell it's happening. Have a friend watch to see if one limb is getting more bend that the other. Only takes a tiny bit. This can be cured short term by transposing the limbs, and would stop the problem. Long term, it's new limb time for safest results.


----------



## bearhunt (Jan 16, 2008)

*I checked my AN32 and the thick spacer is on the draw stop side*



TMan51 said:


> Keyman, I've had a set of Spirals on several bows since they were hatched in 2003. Take a look at the spacers on the bottom at each side of the cam. Is the thick spacer on the draw stop side by any chance. I had a set isnstalled improperly at Hoyt that did almsot the same thing, bypassing the draw stop.
> Another possible culprit is cam lean. You may have developed a weak limb, happens, but it's nearly impossible for the shooter to see/tell it's happening. Have a friend watch to see if one limb is getting more bend that the other. Only takes a tiny bit. This can be cured short term by transposing the limbs, and would stop the problem. Long term, it's new limb time for safest results.


So now I have to ask if this is wrong for the am 32. The limbs were replaced because they developed a creak (after 5k shots) and they have probably had another 5 k shots since then. I have noticed that the string is running close to the end of the peg but there does not seem to be an excessive wear. There might be a little cam lean on the bottom as well. Could the spacer on the wrong side cause this?


----------



## TMan51 (Jan 25, 2004)

bearhunt said:


> So now I have to ask if this is wrong for the am 32. Could the spacer on the wrong side cause this?


I have Spirals, Vectors and Z3's on my current crop.

Get the spacer on the wrong side, and it will sooner or later (mostly sooner), jump the peg.

Standing there with all of the stress hanging on the peg is a *nad shriveling* experience.


----------



## bearhunt (Jan 16, 2008)

So should the spacer be on the drawstop side or the other side?


----------



## TMan51 (Jan 25, 2004)

There should be two spacers, with the thinner spacer on the Draw Stop side.


----------



## paheadhunter (Apr 12, 2011)

so not to hi-jack, but here is a problem I ran into yesterday when changing out the stock strings on my Rampage XT to some new custom ones. I put them on and checked my timing and I had some twisting to do.....bottom way ahead of the top. So no matter how many times I twist the control (one without the "Y" I still get confused sometimes trying to remember which cable is which) Anyway, no matter how many twists I put in to that one and take twists out of the "y" cable....I put the bow back in my drawboard and crank 'er back and when I get it back nothing has changed. as a matter of fact the cable without the "y" looks like there are no twists. I messed with it all afternoon until I just hung it up and walked away for the day. I'm frustrated that I can't get it


----------



## TMan51 (Jan 25, 2004)

paheadhunter said:


> So no matter how many times I twist the control (one without the "Y" I still get confused sometimes trying to remember which cable is which)


Actually that's relevant to any tuning thread.

Try this, start taking notes the minute you start turning anything on the bow. Sights, string, cables, nocking point position, BH/ATA... write it all down. In a short period of time you will develope a mental image of where everything goes with a turn here or there. In a short time, you won't need the notes, and all adjustments will be easier to make.

"Pokin and hopin" is usually a tuning disaster if my memory serves me at all (not much left), written notes and measurements never forget.


----------



## hrtlnd164 (Mar 22, 2008)

paheadhunter said:


> so not to hi-jack, but here is a problem I ran into yesterday when changing out the stock strings on my Rampage XT to some new custom ones. I put them on and checked my timing and I had some twisting to do.....bottom way ahead of the top. So no matter how many times I twist the control (one without the "Y" I still get confused sometimes trying to remember which cable is which) Anyway, no matter how many twists I put in to that one and take twists out of the "y" cable....I put the bow back in my drawboard and crank 'er back and when I get it back nothing has changed. as a matter of fact the cable without the "y" looks like there are no twists. I messed with it all afternoon until I just hung it up and walked away for the day. I'm frustrated that I can't get it


If your bottom stop is hitting firts you should be putting twists into the "Y" cable, not removing them.
PM sent..


----------



## keyman (Mar 22, 2003)

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1474594

I think I got it figured out. 
Thanks for the advice, TMan51, I was hoping you would chime in. I knew you have had posts before that was beneficial to me and that your no-nonsense approach is very helpful. Thanks to all of you that helped.


----------

