# Heavy Duty Meat Grinder



## whack&stack (Oct 15, 2007)

nice set up


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## no1huntmaster (Dec 30, 2006)

This is too cool.......I thought how nice a powered one would be many times.


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## The_Bonecrusher (May 7, 2009)

good job


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## Huaco (Jul 7, 2006)

Geez... you had BETTER make good use of that plunger that came with that grinder. You could probably fit your entire hand in that hopper chute.  You DO want to keep your hand and fingers right???

BTW, There was a guy here on AT just the other day that had a "mishap" with his grinder. It DOES happen!


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## ryninger (Oct 15, 2008)

Huaco said:


> Geez... you had BETTER make good use of that plunger that came with that grinder. You could probably fit your entire hand in that hopper chute.  You DO want to keep your hand and fingers right???
> 
> BTW, There was a guy here on AT just the other day that had a "mishap" with his grinder. It DOES happen!


Surprisingly it didn't come with a plunger.... I put the swith next grinder so I can kill it easily before tending to a piece of meat stuck to the chute. I'm the only one allowed to feed that monster and I drop it in from a safe heigth. My job requires me to have two hands, so i don't screw around with it. I've seen what can happen with em, and with this setup I know good and well my arm would be gone..... Thanks for the concern! :darkbeer:

and yes, I can fit my fist very easily into the chute.


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## georgiabuckdan (Dec 17, 2007)

Holy Chit!


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## realunlucky (Feb 4, 2009)

that thing is sweet


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## thunderchicken from La (Jun 20, 2009)

*Nice set up*

Very nice set up you got there.....Thanks for sharing. Might want to think about removing the handle on the wheel wouldn't want something to get caught around the handle during operation...long hair, necklace,string from clothes or hat......


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## Barry Portugal (Dec 23, 2007)

So when are you going to fit the sausage filler????:wink:


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## TrekJeff (Sep 27, 2009)

Too cool....you could also configure your set up where the grinder is above the motor. Put it on a old style butcher block that has a lower shelf for the motor to sit on, the belt coming up behind and attaching to the grinder above. That way you have more room to work and less of a chance to get caught up in your pulley and belt. Very nice idea!!


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## Coreytee (Oct 2, 2009)

that is one sweet setup!


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## Rising Sight (Oct 13, 2009)

That is a sweet looking grinder.


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## RugerRedhawk (Oct 15, 2008)

no1huntmaster said:


> This is too cool.......I thought how nice a powered one would be many times.


I got a sweet one on sale after season this past year at Gander for $50. It works great.


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## ryninger (Oct 15, 2008)

TrekJeff said:


> Too cool....you could also configure your set up where the grinder is above the motor. Put it on a old style butcher block that has a lower shelf for the motor to sit on, the belt coming up behind and attaching to the grinder above. That way you have more room to work and less of a chance to get caught up in your pulley and belt. Very nice idea!!


Thanks,
That is how I was originally going to do it, but at the last minute I acquired the 1.5 hp motor. It was significantly larger than the 1hp motor I was going to use. With the belts that I had at the time, there wasn't going to be enough clearance between motor/grinder. So I had to make due with what I had, next year I'm going to rebuild it more efficiently.


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## t-roys (Oct 12, 2009)

Very nice looking grinder! Nice Idea!


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## shilohman (Nov 27, 2004)

*Grinder*

Where did you get the pulley from on the motor. They sell that same #32 ginder at tractor supply company for $89. It's a nice set up. I tryed to find the same pulley, on the motor, for my set up with out any sucess.


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## ryninger (Oct 15, 2008)

shilohman said:


> Where did you get the pulley from on the motor. They sell that same #32 ginder at tractor supply company for $89. It's a nice set up. I tryed to find the same pulley, on the motor, for my set up with out any sucess.


Two ways... If you already have the grinder, mcmaster.com 
If you are going to buy the grinder, it was a little over 100 bucks shipped from northerntool.com. It comes with a pulley for the motor. 

Hope this helps


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## wynnbry2000 (Aug 18, 2009)

thats really cranking meat out at 200 rpms on the grinder pulley.


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## Wallyman (Aug 7, 2005)

*Grinder*

I just ground up this year's antelope and muley...sure coulda used something like this! I'm using a KitchenAide with a grinder attachment, and I gotta set aside the better part of an evening to grind and vacuum pack.

Great idea! Thanks for sharing!!


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## Hunter Dave (Jul 17, 2007)

That's quite a machine. Looks like it would grind fingers and hands pretty quickly, too.  Man, just be carefull!!!


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## naubusan (Mar 23, 2007)

This is what I call heavy duty meat grinder..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWYxTBrPQRY


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## TrekJeff (Sep 27, 2009)

ryninger said:


> Thanks,
> That is how I was originally going to do it, but at the last minute I acquired the 1.5 hp motor. It was significantly larger than the 1hp motor I was going to use. With the belts that I had at the time, there wasn't going to be enough clearance between motor/grinder. So I had to make due with what I had, next year I'm going to rebuild it more efficiently.



Cool, not knocking on ya at all, it's a great setup, just giving out some ideas:thumbs_up


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## bubbalove (Jun 30, 2009)

Dude make sure you don't bump the switch when you got your hand in it. I would unplug it if I was sticking my hand in it.


Sweet grinder though and good job.


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## Hunter Dave (Jul 17, 2007)

I keep thinking you need to at least install a guard system to cover the belt drive. It would keep fingers, hands, clothing, etc. from getting involved, yet still allow you to operate the handcrank when necessary. As for the grinder feed....

Sorry, I worked as a safety engineer for a while....old habits die hard.


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## ryninger (Oct 15, 2008)

Hunter Dave said:


> I keep thinking you need to at least install a guard system to cover the belt drive. It would keep fingers, hands, clothing, etc. from getting involved, yet still allow you to operate the handcrank when necessary. As for the grinder feed....
> 
> Sorry, I worked as a safety engineer for a while....old habits die hard.


I agree... This isn't what my original design was going to be. Like I mentioned above I acquired the larger motor at the last minute, and didn't have time to get another belt. I finished it the morning I was leaving for opening weekend, and sprayed a coat of paint of and loaded it still tacky...lol My plan is for an over under design, with the motor and belt contained inside the enclosed box, only having the handle and very top part of the belt exposed... I opted out of total concealment for ease of tear down, and belt replacement...

I am the only one that is around it when it is operating, and have the switch located so I can hit it with the toe of my shoe. In an effort to keep hands away as much as possible. When feeding I drop in the meat from about a foot above. If meat gets stuck on the chute, power gets cut and roatation stopped before hands go anywhere near. Same holds true in the unlikely event of it getting jammed up.

Once I get some more free time to get into the metal shop I have full access to It'll be getting rebuilt. 


Thanks for voicing the concern, esp for those that may not have thought about it.....:teeth:


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## F.C.Hunter (Jul 14, 2009)

Just another opinion, revolving at 200RPM you might wanna look into getting some type of bearings for that thing. Other wise the auger is going to chew into the other parts and cause it to wobble and proably self destruct very violently.


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## ryninger (Oct 15, 2008)

F.C.Hunter said:


> Just another opinion, revolving at 200RPM you might wanna look into getting some type of bearings for that thing. Other wise the auger is going to chew into the other parts and cause it to wobble and proably self destruct very violently.


It's already got em, at leat a nice thrust bearing anyway... I'm gonna assume they accounted for the added stress in engineering, that and 200 rpm's is lower that what it would have been if I would have used the motor pulley they supplied with the grinder.


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## FarmerPaul (Jun 9, 2005)

Nice set up . Just seen a similar grinder hooked up to and old riding lawmower transmission . It gave them 3 speeds forward plus reverse .


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## petrey10 (Oct 24, 2008)

very nice setup minus the hazards that may come with use... how many RPMs would the 1hp motor? Couldn't you just get a different pulley to slow the RPMs down. I would think 100 RPMs would be plenty.


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## damo-eire (Nov 5, 2009)

Cool set up, looks the part well done


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## real-mccoy (Oct 8, 2009)

We made one using the same grinder, a 1 1/2hp motor and gear box that we found off of ebay. We wired in a foot switch also. Since we used a gear box we were able to do away with the wheels on the motor and grinder. We had a coupler made that goes between the motor and grinder. I think we have about 60 rpms with this setup. You can grind the whole deer if you like bones and all! If you want pics let me know, it is really a sweet setup and the gear box would be all you need and it is very safe!


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## ryninger (Oct 15, 2008)

real-mccoy said:


> We made one using the same grinder, a 1 1/2hp motor and gear box that we found off of ebay. We wired in a foot switch also. Since we used a gear box we were able to do away with the wheels on the motor and grinder. We had a coupler made that goes between the motor and grinder. I think we have about 60 rpms with this setup. You can grind the whole deer if you like bones and all! If you want pics let me know, it is really a sweet setup and the gear box would be all you need and it is very safe!



I would very much like to see your setup, and where the gear box came from!


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## CutTheLoop (Dec 26, 2007)

Huaco said:


> Geez... you had BETTER make good use of that plunger that came with that grinder. You could probably fit your entire hand in that hopper chute.  You DO want to keep your hand and fingers right???
> 
> BTW, There was a guy here on AT just the other day that had a "mishap" with his grinder. It DOES happen!


I was a meat cutter for 15 years...it can and does happen. And it ain't pretty.

Not near as dangerous as a tenderizer or bacon slicer though.ukey:

One of our wrappers was grinding one day and her diamond ring came off and into the hopper... even being the hardest substance on earth couldn't save it.


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## real-mccoy (Oct 8, 2009)

ryninger said:


> I would very much like to see your setup, and where the gear box came from!


Give me a few days the grinder is at my dads. We butcher a couple of hogs every year as well as working up a few deer and it has saved a ton of work. It takes longer to clean the grinder than to grind the meat! 
Here is a link to a speed reducer/gear box on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/Dodge-Tigear-2-...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5ad4c0b652 
Ours does take up more room because of the right angle of the gear box but the safety factor made up for it. The pics will help a lot just give me a day or two.


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## petrey10 (Oct 24, 2008)

now that looks a little safer and maybe even easier to setup. I may make a grinder liek this when I see the pics....


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## petrey10 (Oct 24, 2008)

ttt picsssssssssssssss


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## 48down (Jan 9, 2007)

Cool grinder I have a very similar setup.


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## ryninger (Oct 15, 2008)

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1063462

Just be careful when using these big boys!


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## firecapt186 (Oct 31, 2004)

I have a friend that has one set up like that. He uses an old baseball bat as a plunger. He didn't use it "once", took the end of his finger off.


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## revoarcher (Jul 18, 2006)

Here are some pictures of one I made a couple of years ago. It is also a #32 grinder with a 3/4 hp motor and a 10-1 gear reduction. It is all connected with lovejoy couplers so there are no belts to slip or adjust. Because there is no large pulley on the grinder everything is lower than the grinder mouth. I work at a large cabinet manufacturer so I made a table with sides out of corian it is a solid surface counter top material. There are no seams or 90 degree corners and it is completly impervious to liquids so no areas to hold bacteria and very easy to clean. There is a hole in the top above the grinder to feed meat through and it is big enough to dump a lot of meat in and just push it down the hole and all moving parts are covered by the top.


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## real-mccoy (Oct 8, 2009)

That is just like the one that we made. We found a 30:1, 1 1/2hp. reducer and used a 1 1/2hp motor. Does the 3/4 have enough power? We were going to use a smaller motor but were not sure it was big enough. We used lovejoy couplings as well. The coupler for the box to the grinder was made by a friend at a machine shop. it uses set screws that go into the keyways. that way the shaft on the grinder just slides right into the coupler and the grinder is not even attached to the table. Just slide the grinder shaft into the coupler and you are good to go. The feet on the grinder keeps it in place. When you are done it slides right out and you can take it inside to clean it. We were going to screw it down to the boards but found there was no need and it is so nice to just slide it off. With the 30:1 reducer we are getting 57 rpms and with the foot switch we can kill the grinder in just one rotation. It was a great father son project and we had a lot of fun playing with it. Also, as a side note we wired it 220v. so nobody wants to borrow it!


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## petrey10 (Oct 24, 2008)

wow that is great... how many pounds can you grind in a hour


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## petrey10 (Oct 24, 2008)

how do you hook the grinder to the gear box.. did you weld a coupling onto the shaft?


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## real-mccoy (Oct 8, 2009)

petrey10 said:


> how do you hook the grinder to the gear box.. did you weld a coupling onto the shaft?


The grinder shaft on our #32 has a keyway that slide right into the coupler. We dont even tighten the set screws on the grinder shaft. The set screws are tight on the coupler to gear box. The only reason we had to have the coupler made is that the shafts are different sizes but you can use lovejoys it a machine shop is not an option. You can grinder a whole deer in less time than it take to clean it up (about 15 min.)


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## Possum1 (Nov 25, 2008)

where did you get the little pulley on the motor


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## ryninger (Oct 15, 2008)

The motor I use came with it. The grinder that I use came from northerntool.com, and it came with a pulley for the motor. If the motor hadn't came with one. I would have purchased one with a smaller diameter from mcmaster.com for addtl torque.


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## revoarcher (Jul 18, 2006)

real-mccoy said:


> That is just like the one that we made. We found a 30:1, 1 1/2hp. reducer and used a 1 1/2hp motor. Does the 3/4 have enough power? We were going to use a smaller motor but were not sure it was big enough. We used lovejoy couplings as well. The coupler for the box to the grinder was made by a friend at a machine shop. it uses set screws that go into the keyways. that way the shaft on the grinder just slides right into the coupler and the grinder is not even attached to the table. Just slide the grinder shaft into the coupler and you are good to go. The feet on the grinder keeps it in place. When you are done it slides right out and you can take it inside to clean it. We were going to screw it down to the boards but found there was no need and it is so nice to just slide it off. With the 30:1 reducer we are getting 57 rpms and with the foot switch we can kill the grinder in just one rotation. It was a great father son project and we had a lot of fun playing with it. Also, as a side note we wired it 220v. so nobody wants to borrow it!


Yes the 3/4 has enough power it is a industrial motor and doesnt even hiccup when the meat is put in. I would like to find a gear box with a bigger reduction though because it does run a little too fast. I really like the table over the grinder. I can put half a cooler of meat onto it and there is no missing the hole. Just push it in also if I run into a piece that is to big I just cut it right on the table and push it in. I really like the foot switch idea I will have to try to find one.


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## revoarcher (Jul 18, 2006)

petrey10 said:


> how do you hook the grinder to the gear box.. did you weld a coupling onto the shaft?


You cant weld anything to the grinder shaft or you cant remove it from the grinder to clean it. I took my grinder auger to a local machine shop and for $8 they turned it down and put a keyway into it to fit the lovejoy coupler. It has one set screw and you can take it off or put it on.


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## WSmitty01 (Feb 1, 2006)

Similar to the others, used an old washing machine motor. The grinder clamps to the workmate stand making it 2 pieces and very portable. It will grind about 500 lbs an hour, or as fast as you can feed it!!


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## TrekJeff (Sep 27, 2009)

revoarcher said:


> Here are some pictures of one I made a couple of years ago. It is also a #32 grinder with a 3/4 hp motor and a 10-1 gear reduction. It is all connected with lovejoy couplers so there are no belts to slip or adjust. Because there is no large pulley on the grinder everything is lower than the grinder mouth. I work at a large cabinet manufacturer so I made a table with sides out of corian it is a solid surface counter top material. There are no seams or 90 degree corners and it is completly impervious to liquids so no areas to hold bacteria and very easy to clean. There is a hole in the top above the grinder to feed meat through and it is big enough to dump a lot of meat in and just push it down the hole and all moving parts are covered by the top.


Very nice, reminds me of the setup they have at a fish cleaning station at one of the Marinas we salmon fish out of.


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## willyd5 (Jul 25, 2007)

Looks very DANGEROUS to me. Please use caution!! I definetly wouldn't let my kids anywhere near that. Just my .02


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## Patsplace (Nov 4, 2009)

Great thread!! I just bought a Waring grinder that was said to be a great tool "All of the people that bought it were hunters". It's a joke. To grind up the burger meat from a moose would take days and days, probably a week, with the machine probably burning out before you were done.

I've got a #32 on order from Princess Auto in Canada, will turn a push stick on the lathe and I think that I'm going to go the reduction gear route as well. Lord willing I too should be able to have one for under $200 that actually works.

AT is outstanding for information. 

Thanks to all that contributed to this thread. It's made my day and I'm off to return the Waring.

Pat


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## WSmitty01 (Feb 1, 2006)

willyd5,
We have no kids,,,none around,,,,but you should see some of the farm equipment I was raised around 50 years ago, we were just taught common sense around machinery,,,,guess that isn't taught these days!!! If I did have em around I'd teach them the same thing!!!!


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## jns9661 (Oct 31, 2009)

how about a 1/2" electric drill . You could just mount it and use the chuck to connect and disconnect?


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