# Questions to Ask/What to look for when aquiring used bow



## augolino1 (Apr 8, 2019)

I apologize if this is the wrong part of the site to ask this question, but I am hoping to gain some more insight on what questions to ask when buying a used bow. Am also wondering what general things to check for. I am considering buying a used bow but want to make sure to look out for when looking at something that has been used. THank you.


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## longcruise (Mar 14, 2012)

Are you looking at wheel bows or stick bows?


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## Arrows Up (Apr 27, 2019)

I have the same question as augolino1. I'm just getting into archery and am looking for a compound bow to hunt with. With 3 little ones at home, life is on a budget. I'm looking at used bows, but have no idea what to be looking for as far as condition goes. What are the normal trouble areas I should be focusing on? Thanks for any advice.


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## Kenjataimu (May 1, 2019)

I am also looking for the same information. Seems like everyone suggests going for a used flagship, but the specifics of what to look for would be very useful.


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## Katanafreak (Jul 4, 2014)

gotta say, as a newbie, this would be great if someone had a link to a article or something that was wrote up already. Definitely interested in this too!


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

All of the bows I've bought since 2004 were used (8 - 10 bows). However, I have the tools and knowledge to take care of any problems that pop up. So far I haven't had significant problems. I've had to change cams for draw length and limbs for draw weight, but I bought at prices that still made it a good deal. I always build new strings for my new-to-me bows. It's to easy for there to be hidden damage to a string.

If you don't have a bow press and the other tools to work on your bows, it can sometimes get expensive to take your bow to a shop for them to work on them for you. It can wipe out any savings from buying used. 

Some general things to watch for are splinters on the limbs, a bend in the riser, damage to the cams and damage to the strings. These typically are a result of a dry fire. However, there is a lot more to it.

The subject of bow inspection could be a very long post. And the subject of bow tuning is the subject of a whole forum. Most beginners would be better off buying new from a good dealer. Too many dealers are incompetent, but at least you are starting with a new bow that no one else has damaged.

However, you approach it, good luck.

Allen


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## SDguy (Jun 20, 2005)

#1 Make sure The cam option fits your draw length. 

Have a plan for changing strings or tuning the bow once you receive it. Many are not inclined to do their own work on there equipment and that may be fine. Yet you will need to come up with a plan to have your bow set up and tuned to you. I like to keep and shoot the same bow for a decade or so perhaps more. One may plan to switch out strings roughly every 2 years or so. There is more to tuning the bow than just changing out the strings.

If you can or are mechanically inclined I encourage you to learn to be good at tuning your own equipment and do it. If you are not at all mechanically inclined you will need to work well with a pro shop or friend that is so inclined & will work with you to help you get the best out of your set up. This tuning is best focus on during the off season to be sure.

I have seen threads lately that many hunters are experiencing poor recovery rates with archery shot game. I am a firm believer that a properly tuned bow will shoot quieter, penetrate deeper & shoot broad heads to the same impact point as field points. You stand to get out of the sport what you put in to it. Practice, work on good form, tune your form, tune your bow and reap the benefits.

Buy local, buy on line what ever you do tune and practice with your bow to reap all that you and said bow has to offer. Don't set yourself up for disappointment. If in doubt I would say buy local from a good local pro shop.


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