# Oil instead of varnish on woode arrows?



## Hasse (Mar 9, 2013)

Howdy

I got a new bow, a Kaya Winfighter 40 pounds, a couple of weeks ago and since i´m into mounted archery I´ve decided to get wooden arrows this time. The reason is that the arrows gets a pretty rough beating in mounted archery so in the long run its cheaper with wood. The thing i wonder is if there is a differense in using oil or wax to impregnate and weather proof the arrow instead of using varnish or hard laquer?

The arrows are not to last a lifetime but maybe a couple of seasons due to loss, weather, manhandling and since there is a lot of lateral movement, breakage, so the surface dosent have to be as durable as varnish.

Thnx, Hans


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## graysquirrel (Jan 3, 2010)

There is a big difference. Varnish, or other sealant that can be dipped will give a fairly consistant coat that will weigh the same, making each arrow a constant in weight and spine. oil and wax, not so.

Case in point. Take a cedar arrow, and dip it in Thompsons water seal, sucker will gain over 200 grains in soaking up the water seal. Over a period of time it will loose that weight as the stuff evaporates. Makes for a lousy arrow sealer.


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

I like "Danish Oil"...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danish_oil





































I'm going to do some "weight testing" this morning and see how much weight another coat adds to one of my lighter arrows...but I can already tell you that after it dries?...they seem to hold/retain that weight very well...these were done with 3 coats 9 months ago.


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## Bender (Dec 6, 2006)

I don't know for a "fact" as I haven't tried myself, but I bet that using oil or wax would lead to adhesion problems with most any glue that you use for your fletching. 

Should you chose to pursue this, I would just recommend that you make up only one arrow to start and fletch it and see what happens.


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

Bender said:


> I don't know for a "fact" as I haven't tried myself, but I bet that using oil or wax would lead to adhesion problems with most any glue that you use for your fletching.
> 
> Should you chose to pursue this, I would just recommend that you make up only one arrow to start and fletch it and see what happens.


Good point Bender!...and I got hammered pretty good when I first posted (on several forums) about how I stained/sealed the entire length of my shafts with Danish oil with folks asking..."Now how are you going to get fletchings to stick?"...well...I had thought this out prior to proceeding and did only do a few to see at first but worked great...in order of application from left to right...

"KILZ" is a stain/oil/grease blocking primer...and works great when painting over grease spattered kitchen walls...and cinched down on the Danish oiled doug fir just fine....










which gave me the base for my color/cap coats...



















and then a good coat of Polycrylic clear to seal it all up and makes for a great interface with a number of popular glues such as Fletchtite Platinum, Easton Quick Bond and even Blue Cap Gorilla Glue...










I used the Fletchtite Platinum on these woodies and one particular broadhead equipped one (I used in the penetration tests) has been shot and/or pulled through about a dozen jugs filled with both sand and water with no ill affects...looks like the day I made it.


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

Whelp?...the Danish Oil adding (after the fact) weight is a wash....which tells me it did a great job of sealing the arrows.

I initially coated these 3 times as per the instructions....9 months ago...well?...I just added another coat...which states to...

1. Apply a drenching coat to the wood and leave set for 30 minutes to penetrate.

2. Wipe dry and re-apply a second light coat for 15 minutes.

3. Wipe dry and allow 72hrs curing time.

so I did that...(except for the 72hrs of #3 there) and?...

At the start?...The arrow weighed 477grs.

At the finish?...The arrow weighed 477-478grs...but a shade darker in color but I think even that is going to go away after the 72hr curing time...and it's just darker cause it's still slightly wet.

The bad news?...adding more Danish oil over existing Danish oil doesn't add weight.

The good news?...adding more Danish oil over existing Danish oil doesn't add weight.

Which means...they are in fact sealed and moisture proof...as there was no further absorbtion.

But that's okay....the distance and way I shoot?....they could be +/-20grs and I wouldn't be able to tell. :laugh:

ahhh...the beauty....of being one of those inaccurate trad guys. :laugh:


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## Jeb-D. (Sep 21, 2011)

I've used a poly infused danish oil (deftoil) with good results. It takes several coats to get the finish I like. It dries hard and smooth (like tru oil). I've had no adhesion problems whatsoever using Duco cement directly to the shaft. Just be sure to let the last coat dry for 24+ hours before fletching.


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## reddogge (Jul 21, 2009)

Perhaps a Tru Oil or Deftoil with poly infused in it would be OK but generally oil finishes don't rate too high for water proofness. Boiled linseed oil is not good, tung oil a little better but neither is really good for waterproofing wood.


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## Hasse (Mar 9, 2013)

You guys have given me something to think about. The adhesion problem is something I didn't considered at first but then I thought I could use varninsh on the end af the shaft. But then I have to use 2 different kind of substances and the whole idea of a simple quickfix is lost. But I have found a store in Germany that sells wodden shafts and charge 0,30 euros (thats 41 cents for you non-metric-belivers  ) a pop for adding varnish so I think I'll order from them and the problem is solved. Thanks for all the input.


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## Hasse (Mar 9, 2013)

Forgot to link to the shop if anyone is intrested, it's in german. www.bogensportwelt.de/


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