# NEW String Stoppers for Airbornes & Marquis



## lkmn (Feb 28, 2006)

Guys,

Would like some feedback on the stopper I have built and to know if any would be interested prior to me spending the time and money to build a bunch.

The one posted below is a PROTOTYPE ONLY that I have built. The base will be machined completely of 6061 Aluminum and I will be adding a set screw into the rod. The rod itself is made of a engineered composite material that weighs nearly half as much as aluminum. (44.1 gr/inch vs 77 gr/inch). The compression strength alone on this material is over 5,000 psi, Impact strength about 1.5 ft-lbs/ inch, Tensile strength is nearly 10,000 psi.

Rods are the standard black material and bases will be a flat black. I'm hoping to have extra bases as well so if a guy has two of the same bows the rod will just be interchangable.

I currently have dimensions for the 101st, 82nd and Marquis but are hoping to add others soon (general, commander) as well as other bows from other manufactures.

They will come with a bowjax stop as well as a slim jax on the rod.

I'm thinking in the neighborhood of $37 shipped.

Give me some feedback!!


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## youngbloodz1 (Apr 27, 2006)

would this work for older models such as an 06 tribute?


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## ciscokid (Apr 26, 2006)

How much difference in (DB) Decibel levels does it make to have two?


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## lkmn (Feb 28, 2006)

ciscokid said:


> How much difference in (DB) Decibel levels does it make to have two?


Without using a hightech machine (don't have access to one), I used a small hand held machine and It's between 2-4 db quieter with the 2 of them, and about the same without the factory one just the lower one.


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## lkmn (Feb 28, 2006)

This will work on any bow that has the clearance between the cables and the inside edge of the lower stabalizer hole..

i.e. if you cntr your string with cntr of bow and lower hole. If their is room between the inside edge of the lower hole and the cables it will work. 

Their are no bends in the product it is a straight only bar as of now.


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## ciscokid (Apr 26, 2006)

IMHO, that price is a little steep comparing it to items similar to STS.

:behindsof


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## lkmn (Feb 28, 2006)

ciscokid said:


> IMHO, that price is a little steep comparing it to items similar to STS.
> 
> :behindsof


That's what I'm wanting to know. 

Plan has changed a bit. The base will be made of solid HEX aluminum and the cost will probably be somewhere between $30-$32.


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## johnno (Apr 11, 2006)

Just wondering how is yours better to any of the others around? ....cheers..:darkbeer:


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## lkmn (Feb 28, 2006)

johnno said:


> Just wondering how is yours better to any of the others around? ....cheers..:darkbeer:


I'm not saying mine is better but it is different! As stated the rod itself is lighter than aluminum (almost half) and will cut the weight that most others have. It will also be usable on a wide variety of bows do to it being a 2 part system like others but doesn't have the weight of the others that are adjustable.

If you have say a drenalin and next week you but an Xforce or something you would be able to buy just the shorter rod if thats what you so desire and still have the rod for the drenalin. 

I believe it is the best of both (STS & MeanV styles) it is a fixed system but can be adjusted by replacing the rod to coordinate with a different bow. On most other adjustables all that holds the rod in place is the allen screw, due to the rod penetrating all the way through the base, where as mine will be held in place by allen screws but still have a solid back to insure there is no movement. Last it is my thought that a straight rod is a better design than a bent rod.


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## johnno (Apr 11, 2006)

lkmn said:


> Last it is my thought that a straight rod is a better design than a bent rod.


Why ???


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## lkmn (Feb 28, 2006)

johnno said:


> Why ???


Let me clarify this a little. 

A rod that is bent manually from a straight stock instead of being cast that way in my opinion is weaker. Once it is heated or placed in a bender a portion of it's strength is taken out from either the heat or the strain of bending. 

Once again it's my opinion but isn't a straight nail stronger than one that's already bent and a rod thats already bent easier to bend than a rod thats straight.


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## Perfectionist (Mar 2, 2004)

lkmn said:


> Let me clarify this a little.
> 
> A rod that is bent manually from a straight stock instead of being cast that way in my opinion is weaker. Once it is heated or placed in a bender a portion of it's strength is taken out from either the heat or the strain of bending.
> 
> Once again it's my opinion but isn't a straight nail stronger than one that's already bent and a rod thats already bent easier to bend than a rod thats straight.


True. There is strength in straightness. However, wouldn't you want to dissipate the energy that is being imparted into your device, rather than transferring it all to the riser?


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## bukhuntr (Aug 22, 2003)

i say throw a couple to a few hard core unbiased ater's to test, then let the results speak for themselves. have to commend a guy for wanting to make his own and trying to pass it along to us. even at $35.00 they are still cheaper than a sts,string tamer, and dare i say it. a meanv when you make a camo one for an allegiance let me know. good luck


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## lkmn (Feb 28, 2006)

Perfectionist said:


> True. There is strength in straightness. However, wouldn't you want to dissipate the energy that is being imparted into your device, rather than transferring it all to the riser?


Yes I do and that is the sole purpose of me going to a lighter less dense material than aluminum to help achieve this.


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## Chop1 (Apr 30, 2007)

ciscokid said:


> IMHO, that price is a little steep comparing it to items similar to STS.
> 
> :behindsof


This price is cheaper than any of the major string supressors out there. What kind have you used that is cheaper?


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## ciscokid (Apr 26, 2006)

Chop1 said:


> This price is cheaper than any of the major string supressors out there. What kind have you used that is cheaper?


The most i paid for a string suppresor was $35 for an STS. I bought a used STS for $20 on AT. I bought a CoolhandLuke for $25 on AT.


I do like lkmn's suppressor because it looks like it would not come loose after 100 shots. I had to re-tighten the STS multiple times. Eventually I had to drill a small hole in the rod to lock it in position and keep it from loosening.


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## Perfectionist (Mar 2, 2004)

lkmn said:


> Yes I do and that is the sole purpose of me going to a lighter less dense material than aluminum to help achieve this.


Great! You have alleviated my only concern with these type of devices. I have an 82nd, and would consider putting one on. When will you hit the streets with the production model? (assuming there is enough interest...)


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## lkmn (Feb 28, 2006)

Will be getting aluminum hex (for bases) in this week and will begin. Hope to have some completed and annodized by the end of next week..


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## lkmn (Feb 28, 2006)

*Picts of finished product*

Heres some pictures of my finished stopper.


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## lkmn (Feb 28, 2006)

Here are a couple I made tonight for a tribby and a new mathews drenalin LD


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## lkmn (Feb 28, 2006)

ttt


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## CubanRedneck (Jun 3, 2008)

could I give you a call?I'm very intrested.


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## lkmn (Feb 28, 2006)

pm sent


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## amarchery (Nov 28, 2007)

*opinion*

This item needs to have the bar in an offset receiver that can be adjusted to assure direct center contact at shot. If it is in the dead center at rest the string may slip past the right side of the stopper at shot and pull the dampener bumper off on the string rebound.

Just a hunch. What do you think? I have tried the straight ones on airbornes and that has been a problem when a lower dampener is used without the shortstop.


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## lkmn (Feb 28, 2006)

amarchery said:


> This item needs to have the bar in an offset receiver that can be adjusted to assure direct center contact at shot. If it is in the dead center at rest the string may slip past the right side of the stopper at shot and pull the dampener bumper off on the string rebound.
> 
> Just a hunch. What do you think? I have tried the straight ones on airbornes and that has been a problem when a lower dampener is used without the shortstop.


I haven't had that be a problem or have I heard it from anuone I've made one for on an airborne (both 82 & 101) I am shooting with the shortstop just my own version. I am also making one with an offset..


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## lkmn (Feb 28, 2006)

Here's a rear mount offset that some guys have been asking about. The shorter on (on my airborne) is adjustable from 4 1/2"- 6 1/2". The longer one is adjustable from 6 1/2" - 8 1/2".

$38 TYD (black)

Pm with any further questions.


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## tmolina (Nov 20, 2005)

*ttt*

$25-$30 tops sounds good to me for a black one.


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