# Tuning my Martin Shadowcat



## threetoe (May 13, 2011)

IMO...Most likely it's your form.
Try concentrating on your bow arm. Don't drop it.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

??? You bought the bow from the winner or you won the Iowa ProAm with it? Left and right tears through paper down range?
Are the arrows different from Iowa and now?


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## SDmtnbiker (Apr 24, 2011)

Sorry for any confusion, I am not nor is the bow the winner of the Iowa Pro-Am. Just stating. I've gone back and forth with this bow, and just won't let it lie under the bed. I shot about 300 arrows yesterday, paper tuned all the way to the target. Starts out with a 1/4 high left tear, but corrects it's self to a bullet hole at 6 yds. My coach watched my form and said I looked good, then asked what my mind was doing. I have both cams timed exact. Should the top cam come over just a bit before the bottom cam??? I believe in this bow but my confidence doesn't and I can't afford a new bow at this time. Any advice would be greatly appreciated..


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

The Shadowcat is a exceptionally accurate bow. Even out of tune my 2011 would shoot great. I've shot three of them, own 2 of them.

Confirm arrow is compatible with set up. I eye balled my Shadowcats for center shot and used levels for the vertical. Never did care how they shot through paper just as long as they shot good.

I use a vertical line to test/check center shot. I shoot up close, about 10 feet and then go back to 30 yards (using same pin setting). If on the line I don't worry until shooting Outdoor or Field distances.

As for the top cam, I like it to have the top cam hit a bit before the bottom, half twist can make a difference. Hand to grip and form dictates this.

Though low profile shoots I shot high overall 4 times this past year with my 2010, three 3Ds and one ASA DAIR Qualifier. Haven't shot my 2011 at any events, just hangs in the waiting....


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## SDmtnbiker (Apr 24, 2011)

Thanks for your input ST. Can you tell me the advantage of having the top cam coming over first and how much quicker. Maybe a 1/16 or 1/32 of a inch???


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## Destroyer (Sep 11, 2009)

Why the poll?


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## threetoe (May 13, 2011)

Destroyer said:


> Why the poll?


Not sure Homer..maybe..DOH !!!!!


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

SDmtnbiker said:


> Thanks for your input ST. Can you tell me the advantage of having the top cam coming over first and how much quicker. Maybe a 1/16 or 1/32 of a inch???


Like I said, it's more hand placement to the grip and/or form. People don't have the same size hands and again, form comes into this. AND then there is the adjustable positive draw stop - this can change things. I initially set my bow by the book and shooting it I found I perfered the positive stop to hit sooner. Now, this is where (and should be) the shooter have the correct draw length for them. I don't care about the modual settings - You want fit, period. Here, draw length correct you can hold on the wall like second nature. Accuracy comes from being on the wall. Any adjustment to the positive draw stop will effect arrow impact - so you will have to adjust your sight height. 

Draw length; If too long you may creep forward and not know it. Though the movement may be tiny it still effects the location of the peep. And at the point of shooting, and already sighted, you may pull (more like jerk) to the wall and all is messed up at firing. This is why most say that a person can shoot a shooter draw length better than they can one too long.

I may have missed a couple things or worded my way. Work with your bow and things will work out.


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## Destroyer (Sep 11, 2009)

threetoe said:


> not sure homer..maybe..doh !!!!!


wohoo!


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## SARASR (Oct 30, 2009)

I agree with ST, but before messing with the cams I would (as he said) first double check your arrow spine to make sure it is right for your set up. Then you need to understand that paper tuning is the first step in bow tuning, as your arrow travels down range the fletching is correcting any errand flight making paper tuning at distance useless. I'm betting your bow is very close to perfect but just needs a little tweeking to finish it off. This is where walk back comes in, as ST said same pin at different ranges shooting at same point on target if the arrows start to stray outward with distance make TINY changes to your rest in the direction you want your arrows to hit (EMPHASIZE TINY!!) if you go to far you will know right away, do not panic just work your way back in even smaller increments.


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## SDmtnbiker (Apr 24, 2011)

Does everyone in Australia has the same IQ as Destroyer????


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## SDmtnbiker (Apr 24, 2011)

Thanks ST and SARASR. Putting your advice to good measure.


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## SDmtnbiker (Apr 24, 2011)

Question for you ST. If I have any cam lean, top or bottom, what is the proper way to correct this?? Since this bow has no yoke system. Thanks for all your input, much appreiated...


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Bows with these type of cam systems, Bowtech and others, have a certain amount of cam lean and no way of getting around it. My two Shadowcats have very little if any at the bottom and some at the top. I do not have a problem with having "some" cam lean. Shadowcats do not have shims, so there is no using them to correct lean. If overly leaned then you are looking for someone with more knowledge than me or returning the bow to the factory.

However, I have my offset guide rod offset just enough to give good clearance of my vane, about 1/8". Possible, but maybe not; check limb fit to limb pocket. I have two sets of limbs that have to be returned for replacement. The Shadowcat limb pocket has a inside dimension of 1.500". Both these limbs are so narrow that they rattle in the pocket. One set checks 1.475" and the other set checks 1.488". All other sets of limbs I've checked (didn't have to) fit snuggly in the pocket. Now imagine how much this play is multipled some 8" out from the limb pocket.


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## buckhunt (Jan 18, 2007)

Anyone still folowing this thread? My questions is I am having trouble with the timing of my shadowcat and the lower cam is way ahead of the upper. Do I shorten the or twist the cable on the bottom? Any thoughs on how to adjust the cams would be appreciated.


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## carlosii (Feb 25, 2007)

ttt suggest you send Ol' Sonny a pm. he loves gettin' them.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

carlosii said:


> ttt suggest you send Ol' Sonny a pm. he loves gettin' them.


Hahaaaaaa! Now I know... carlos = instigator.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

buckhunt said:


> Anyone still folowing this thread? My questions is I am having trouble with the timing of my shadowcat and the lower cam is way ahead of the upper. Do I shorten the or twist the cable on the bottom? Any thoughs on how to adjust the cams would be appreciated.



Do you have a Martin manual? If not, you can down load one from the Martin website. See page 12, bottom diagram, note right side cams, read right side instructions. Note instruction, "cable that feeds into /// module." So if bottom is hitting first twist the cable that feeds into the bottom module.

First, use caution. You should back off postive draw stop. Carefully draw bow until which ever cable first lays flat in the groove for it. Twist cable feeding into module of cam hitting first or untwist cable feeding into module of cam hitting last. You will be equalizing cams and why the draw stop needs backed off.

No press is required. Back off limb bolts until you can see through the barrel nuts for the limb bolts. You can then put enough hand pressure on the bow to remove the cable needing adjusted - just use caution. You can also use a hard word dowel rod. After backing off the limbs, draw the bow just enough to insert dowel rod through cam opening so it will catch the limb fully. Easing up the dowel will come to rest on the limb. All strings should be loose if done correctly.

The hard stuff is shooting Xs past 90 yards


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