# Recurve aperture - what do you think



## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

I got thinking that I have specific wants for a recurve aperture. Specifically, I think I want one with a zero-magnification lens with a dot. I got thinking that with current 3D printing technology it'd be interesting to try designing and 3D printing a recurve aperture housing into which I could put a 15mm anti-reflection coated glass (with a dot on it). At this size, 3D printing can be reasonably priced and can be strong enough to handle the stresses. Mind you, it wouldn't be as strong as aluminum, but strong enough for the application.

After doing some research on the glass and o-rings to hold it in the housing, I drew this up:









The lens is held in by an o-ring, and the entire housing can be removed from the bolt, so in theory you could have a black housing for bright conditions or a colored housing for indoors. The glass could be replaced as well.

So, what do you all think? Did I miss anything? Do you think something should be added/modified before I order one to test out?

-Kent W


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## chrstphr (Nov 23, 2005)

Already on the market. Titan recurve sights. With dot or optic. has replaceable glass and o rings. Also has changing sight ring and comes in colors.

View attachment 1887757


View attachment 1887758


View attachment 1887759


View attachment 1887761



Chris


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## bobnikon (Jun 10, 2012)

But the titan is $80-$85. I for one would be very interested to see how this prices out.

Keep tinkering Kent!

Cheers


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## tunedlow (Nov 7, 2012)

Looks awfully close to the titan -i'd make sure no patents are in place before marketing something like this.



bobnikon said:


> But the titan is $80-$85. I for one would be very interested to see how this prices out.
> 
> Keep tinkering Kent!
> 
> Cheers


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

it would pass on patent stuff...

if you make them, let me know- I'd get a few.

You could make them, sell just the housing...rod is nothing but 8/23, 10/32 threaded rod-- let the buyer use what they want, have a kit.

you could, if you had a printer- let the customer send you the program, you print them, send them back--- don't use a dot-matrix style, results look like crap.


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

True, mine looks a lot like the Titan. It wouldn't even come close in quality to the machined aluminum Titan though. I guess it'd be a poor-man's plastic imitation, with a few differences like the sloping entrance pupil and elliptically faired joint between the bolt attachment and the housing.

I'm not looking to market/sell anything - just tinkering.

For the curious, the housing would be 3D printed, laser-sintered nylon. I'm mostly curious about whether it would actually work. The 3D printed parts I made last year are holding up remarkably well despite JOAD kids' abuse, so I figured this might be another interesting application.

-Kent W.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

yes, the SLS will work quite well....reallly the only efficient way to do it.

if you decide to go about this...count me in as a tester- no problem paying for time and materials.


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## tunedlow (Nov 7, 2012)

modular kit additions would work great for something, i think -you could have the the plastic housing to suit people's preference and other parts for an aperture so they can assemble as-needed



williamskg6 said:


> True, mine looks a lot like the Titan. It wouldn't even come close in quality to the machined aluminum Titan though. I guess it'd be a poor-man's plastic imitation, with a few differences like the sloping entrance pupil and elliptically faired joint between the bolt attachment and the housing.
> 
> I'm not looking to market/sell anything - just tinkering.
> 
> ...


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## w8lon (Jun 2, 2012)

With aging eyes the benefit of a lens helps I have found even with no added power. Lucked into a pair of Jennings 0X power scopes a few months back in an auction lot. They were 1-1/4" lenses with a single etched dot, a circle was cut to mask the ring out of prism looking medical tape. With the wider view it is calming to have the approach to the bull in full view and color can be seen through the mask as well. Dots are cut from reinforcement labels for ring binders, 924 different colored labels per packet, punch the dots to suit using a leather punch.

Much faster target acquisition with a calmer shot though the big lens. Now working on the vision issue of looking through the corner of prescription glasses and distorted view.


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

I like the idea of a little bit bigger aperture, so I sized my current 3D model to use a 15mm lens, which is a little smaller than 5/8". The opening you look through (the aperture itself) is 1/2" in diameter. I didn't go as far as that Jennings scope though!


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## w8lon (Jun 2, 2012)

You can always mask off what you need to with medical tape. With the big lens the shot for me at least feels less rushed, as in drive by, of course my eyes are not the best and trying to adapt to the rapid changes. Left eye is 20/20 corrected and Right 60/20, talk about a confused brain as it works harder trying to focus the wrong eye so must use a blinder.

Amazing that you can print such stuff nowadays!


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Kent - 

Don't take this as a negative, even though it might be... sorta.

I think the easiest to use is a simple aperture with nothing inside. 
It allows the brain to center the target, or part of it, inside the ring.
In most cases, the target is what you are trying to focus on (a few exceptions there). 

The idea is to decrease the shooter's work load, not add to it and that's what the spot does. 
I've found that most people do shoot better scores with an open aperture. 
For those of us with older eyes, it's almost a necessity.

Some people feel more comfortable with a spot or at least they think they do, and that just proves that people are wired differently. 

Viper1 out.


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

Viper1,

I don't see that as a negative. I've currently got an open-aperture (no pin or dot). I shot a friend's Ambo with a tiny dot and for whatever reason it suited me. Where the lens would be removable, this experimental one could do both, providing that the 1/2" opening isn't too large. The glass I found doesn't come with a dot anyway - I'd have to add it myself. Options, options...

-Kent W.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Kent - 

I'm using a 1/2" ID aperture right now and it seems to be fitting the bill for both indoor and out door work. 
But my eyes aren't the greatest. 

Viper1 out.


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## archeryking (Aug 3, 2002)

Not to get too off topic, but I was under the impression that having a circle and a dot on the lens like W8lon is showing was not FITA legal as it was considered to have multiple aiming points. This is the reason I stopped using my Titan. I couldn't see the fiber and the housing is too big of a circle to aim with. If I can put a ring around the fiber I could be back in business with the Titan.


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## caspian (Jan 13, 2009)

Fury90flier said:


> it would pass on patent stuff...


yes, it's hardly prior art. the Spigarelli scope is very similar too.


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## fanio (Feb 1, 2011)

I'd make a vertical flat bit on the inside to give something with which to align your string.


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

fanio said:


> I'd make a vertical flat bit on the inside to give something with which to align your string.


Are either of these similar to what you're envisioning?









I think that the additional items would probably violate Viper1's "decreasing the shooter's work load" rule, but to each their own. It's easy to tack on bits like these.

-Kent W.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

I like pic 1...but I'd rather have the post longer.

Ideally, I'd like to see one that can use globe inserts--the interchangeable inserts for the front sight used in match rifles.


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

Fury90flier said:


> I like pic 1...but I'd rather have the post longer.
> 
> Ideally, I'd like to see one that can use globe inserts--the interchangeable inserts for the front sight used in match rifles.


It'd be pretty easy to find someone who can stamp out very thin metal or plastic sheets into shapes like that, which would simply go in front of the glass. Don't know how much that would cost, though. I did find that Brownells seems to carry some that would probably fit fairly well - the 14.9mm apertures for Parker-Hale front sight. 

Now that I mention it, it wouldn't be too hard to make a dovetail adapter to 8/32" rod so you could just use a Parker-Hale front sight as your aperture...

-Kent W.


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

Fury90flier said:


> Ideally, I'd like to see one that can use globe inserts--the interchangeable inserts for the front sight used in match rifles.


So, something like this?









The inserts would be used in place of the glass, and would be exactly the same size and thickness as the glass. No mechanism to ensure that the inserts are perfectly aligned vertically/horizontally, but care and patience could solve that problem.

-Kent W.


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

Status update. I've ordered a few prototypes printed. They'll be here in a little while. I've found an interesting alternative for lenses now, as opposed to the white float glass windows. I'll be trying both lens options. Once I'm more or less satisfied with how things are going together, I'll post what I've decided to do with these at the moment and more details about the lenses. Stay tuned if you want.

-Kent W.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

williamskg6 said:


> So, something like this?
> 
> View attachment 1892040
> 
> ...


exactly.

the only difference is that I'd like to use the actual inserts from Anschutz or some other common sight manufacturer. The ones from the rifle have tabs on the left and right side of the iris/post that fit in the slot on the sight housing. Look closely at this sight- you can see the piece that unscrews and how the sight aperture drops in and is aligned with the tabs.


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## target1 (Jan 16, 2007)

When I first started shooting (again) my coach (MJ Rogers) let me use an aperture that was nothing more than a washer with rod welded to it. It was based on the premise that the brain can align circles much easier than me trying to put a dot in the center of the target. It works amazingly. I have never recommended a dot or crosshairs or anything in the ring. I currently use and have for a few years now the one sold in this sites classifieds. Highly recommend it. On occasion I will drag out my EMPTY Beiter sight tunnel as well.

The dots or pins really came into popularity for compound spot shooters. It really cause you to overthink your shots. You WILL really shoot better without them. Guaranteed.

Additionally, you should really be looking through the aperture and fixate on the X. Not looking at the pin or dot.


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## target1 (Jan 16, 2007)

I'm thinking about finding big washers that block the target, with a little hole and will only let you see yellow. Fill the hole with yellow and let go. Should work. Different size hole for different size targets and distances. Now I've gone and blown my secret weapon.


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

target1, I currently shoot an open aperture and have tried an Ambo with a tiny dot. I actually preferred the tiny dot, but I'm interested in something I can modify/adapt to my current likes. This housing I'm tinkering with might do that just fine. Want to shoot open aperture? Fine. Want to put a zero-power lens with a dot or drilled for a fiber? Fine. I'm still trying to find a decent way to handle the idea of globe sight inserts - I didn't draw the housing to match those inserts - I drew it to match the lens sizes I can find. It's completely possible to make simple inserts that would allow you to modify the size of the aperture opening and still shoot open aperture. Some people do prefer a dot or fiber or pin. To each their own...

-Kent W.


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## target1 (Jan 16, 2007)

We are all here to help other archers. Keep up the good work.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

I like the idea of a globe site mount...actually have been thinking about doing just that since I have a parker-hale and anschutz front sight sets.


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

just though of this...what about an adapter that will allow you to use a number of different inserts? Anschutz, Lyman, Redfield, Feinwerkbau...an adapter that could thread into the housing. Let the user choose which style they like, or what they may already have on their rifle.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Uberti-G...400?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af1a468b0


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

Fury90flier said:


> I like the idea of a globe site mount...actually have been thinking about doing just that since I have a parker-hale and anschutz front sight sets.


Hey - can you take very accurate measurements of one (or several) of those globe inserts? O.D., size of the tabs, thickness. Maybe I can work some slots in somehow so you'd slide an insert in, then a zero-power glass of some sort, then the o-ring. Either that or make a keyed insert that holds smaller inserts...

-Kent W.


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

Fury90flier said:


> just though of this...what about an adapter that will allow you to use a number of different inserts? Anschutz, Lyman, Redfield, Feinwerkbau...an adapter that could thread into the housing. Let the user choose which style they like, or what they may already have on their rifle.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Uberti-G...400?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af1a468b0


Yeah - threads are tough to model and I don't know if they'd 3D print well. I've been avoiding them so far. Perhaps I should be more adventurous...

-Kent W.


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## Dacer (Jun 10, 2013)

If you are going to have inserts like that I wouldnt worry about a glass lens. The point of the zero power lens is to place a "floating" dot/ ring or a comb of them. A quality glass lens would just add cost with no real benefit if you want to use inserts like that. 


Just my opinion. I like the cad designs that have been posted.


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## arrow1347 (Mar 21, 2003)

try one of barrys fita rings
View attachment 1901784


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## robin smith (Jun 6, 2011)

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/ambo-adjustable-iris.html

IS a really great sight and I would recommend the 10/32" shaft


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

Dacer said:


> If you are going to have inserts like that I wouldnt worry about a glass lens. The point of the zero power lens is to place a "floating" dot/ ring or a comb of them. A quality glass lens would just add cost with no real benefit if you want to use inserts like that.


Well, something has to hold the insert in. The groove for the o-ring is going to be 1mm back from the face against which any insert would sit, so something has to fill the void so the insert doesn't rattle around. A 15mm white float glass window (basically flint optical glass) is only $11 with anti-reflection coating, which is not exactly a bank breaker. I agree that the less-expensive and zero-glare option would be a plastic spacer of some sort (probably a few dollars 3D printed) but why not have all options available?

Maybe I need to do a cross-section rendering to clear this up...

When the first prototypes arrive I'll post some photos. A 3D rendering is pretty and all, but it's better to have a real item.

-KW


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

robin smith said:


> http://www.lancasterarchery.com/ambo-adjustable-iris.html
> 
> IS a really great sight and I would recommend the 10/32" shaft


If only it wasn't so expensive. I tried one with a glass lens and small dot and really liked it with the exception of the really thick housing - a necessity for those aperture blades and the adjusting mechanism. One of my experiment's goals is to keep the cost below $20. It looks like I'm going to be able to easily do that, excluding shipping costs.

-KW


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## Dacer (Jun 10, 2013)

williamskg6 said:


> Well, something has to hold the insert in. The groove for the o-ring is going to be 1mm back from the face against which any insert would sit, so something has to fill the void so the insert doesn't rattle around. A 15mm white float glass window (basically flint optical glass) is only $11 with anti-reflection coating, which is not exactly a bank breaker. I agree that the less-expensive and zero-glare option would be a plastic spacer of some sort (probably a few dollars 3D printed) but why not have all options available?
> 
> Maybe I need to do a cross-section rendering to clear this up...
> 
> ...


I understand why you would use a Glass lens - I'm saying there are cheaper possible solutions. Use two o-rings maybe. Anything to keeps the cost down is never a terrible thing. $10 is $10.


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

I've got an MRAD from Elitus:
http://www.elitus-archery.com/MRAD.html

I REALLY like it. You can swap apertures around without changing zero. He cut me a custom set of rings with the three largest center holes and a variety of ring thicknesses. It's extremely well made and carrying spares takes almost no room.

-Grant


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## bobnikon (Jun 10, 2012)

grantmac said:


> I've got an MRAD from Elitus:
> http://www.elitus-archery.com/MRAD.html
> 
> I REALLY like it. You can swap apertures around without changing zero. He cut me a custom set of rings with the three largest center holes and a variety of ring thicknesses. It's extremely well made and carrying spares takes almost no room.
> ...


I tried one but the body was too long, and I couldnt get the aperature in far enough. Seemed like a good idea otherwise. If the body that holds the apertures was a little shorter, I am sure I would have liked it.
cheers
erik


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

williamskg6 said:


> Yeah - threads are tough to model and I don't know if they'd 3D print well. I've been avoiding them so far. Perhaps I should be more adventurous...
> 
> 
> Trying to 3D print threads- yea, probably quite difficult for any quality with most machines...I'd just use a tap.
> ...





robin smith said:


> http://www.lancasterarchery.com/ambo-adjustable-iris.html
> 
> IS a really great sight and I would recommend the 10/32" shaft


Cost is too high, and there are some classes, I think, that won't let you use an adjustable iris.


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

Just a quick update. After trying a couple of prototypes, some revisions were made. Also, there are three versions of 3D models at the moment. 

When I get done testing these, which should be pretty close to what I'd originally envisioned, I'll probably just open it up to people to try out for themselves.

Here are a couple of renderings:
















The price from the 3D printer for any of these housings (LH or RH) should be around $5 for the basic materials (SLS nylon strong & flexible). You'd just need to procure a 8-32 x 2-1/2" pan head bolt, an 8-32 nut, the glass (if desired), and any o-rings you want. I designed around the commonly-available 1/2" and 5/8" o-rings you can find at local hardware stores, and the 12.5mm and 15mm windows you can get from Edmund optics.

15mm housing I.D. (with no o-ring): ~1/2"
12.5mm housing I.D. (with no o-ring): ~3/8"
1/2" o-ring housing I.D. (can't accept glass): ~0.48" - it's smaller than 1/2" so the o-rings have a groove to sit in

And for anyone wondering what these look like when actually 3D printed, here's a photo of the roughest prototype I received:








This housing is by far the roughest print quality I've seen out of the company from whom I ordered these. Most of the time the results are better, but even this one is completely usable and actually looks pretty nice in-person.

-Kent W.


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## w8lon (Jun 2, 2012)

Very nice, Kent!

Next project print a riser?


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## Azucry (Feb 28, 2014)

that looks nice even though it's rough, definitely in for a few depending on price !


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

It turns out that the larger housing with no o-ring (1/2" I.D.) seems to align well with the black scoring rings on a 40cm target at 20 yards. I had a guy try it out with a thick o-ring as well and his accuracy jumped drastically. Of course, he's been shooting with a cheapo clear plastic Cartel aperture that is tough to see in a dark-ish indoor range, so almost anything would probably help.

As for printing a riser, I'm sure it can be done if you don't mind the expense. I'm also sure I'm not the guy to design one, as I have no bow engineering experience at all. 

I'll post the link on Shapeways when I'm satisfied with the designs. They'll let you make one of these out of a variety of metals. Heck, if you're feeling rich, you could even get one made out of brass, bronze, steel, or silver. I'd consider you a fool for doing so though - not worth the extreme cost.

Another thing about cost, you'd be wise to make group buys from Shapeways - shipping is a pretty much a single price independent upon number of parts ordered since they're small. So, ordering a bunch makes the shipping cost per housing lower. In fact, shipping has been the most expensive part of this project and I'm only in it so far for about $30.

-Kent W.


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## target1 (Jan 16, 2007)

looks good


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## BaconRocks (Sep 16, 2012)

This is really cool, but what are the benefits of having a zero power lens? I thought the whole point of lenses in scopes was to magnify your target.


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## fango0000 (Mar 16, 2011)

I would totally pay 5 dollars to give one of these a spin haha
Victor


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

BaconRocks said:


> This is really cool, but what are the benefits of having a zero power lens? I thought the whole point of lenses in scopes was to magnify your target.


For recurves in competition you can't have magnification. If you used "lens" (zero power glass), you could put an aiming dot on it if you like or have it drilled for a fiber.


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## BaconRocks (Sep 16, 2012)

williamskg6 said:


> For recurves in competition you can't have magnification. If you used "lens" (zero power glass), you could put an aiming dot on it if you like or have it drilled for a fiber.


So the lens itself doesn't do anything, it's just there to hold a dot/fiber/whatever you wanna aim with?


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## kaerey (Jan 31, 2014)

williamskg6 said:


> It turns out that the larger housing with no o-ring (1/2" I.D.) seems to align well with the black scoring rings on a 40cm target at 20 yards. I had a guy try it out with a thick o-ring as well and his accuracy jumped drastically. Of course, he's been shooting with a cheapo clear plastic Cartel aperture that is tough to see in a dark-ish indoor range, so almost anything would probably help.
> 
> ...
> 
> -Kent W.


As the guy who tried this, I highly approve of this mans work! I will be buying one of these when he makes it available. I loved having that big chunk of black out there with the biggest O-Ring in it. Made things so much easier to see and line up.


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

BaconRocks said:


> So the lens itself doesn't do anything, it's just there to hold a dot/fiber/whatever you wanna aim with?


Correct. 

Technically, it's not a lens, either. It's a precision made piece of optical float glass (parallel surfaces) that's really designed to be something like an inspection window or a viewport. The ones I designed around are 1mm thick and can be bought with anti-reflection coating for around $11 or less. I have not figured out how to get them drilled for a fiber.

-Kent W.


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## BaconRocks (Sep 16, 2012)

williamskg6 said:


> Correct.
> 
> Technically, it's not a lens, either. It's a precision made piece of optical float glass (parallel surfaces) that's really designed to be something like an inspection window or a viewport. The ones I designed around are 1mm thick and can be bought with anti-reflection coating for around $11 or less. I have not figured out how to get them drilled for a fiber.
> 
> -Kent W.


Oh, I see. I'd be really interested in buying one when you make them available, I think it would be interesting to try one with a dot or a circle.


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

BaconRocks said:


> Oh, I see. I'd be really interested in buying one when you make them available, I think it would be interesting to try one with a dot or a circle.


I'm currently communicating with Edmund optics to see how much they would charge to drill holes (0.019" or 0.029") for those who would enjoy a fiber. For a dot - you'd just order the glass and put whatever dot you like on it.


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## kaerey (Jan 31, 2014)

williamskg6 said:


> ... I had a guy try it out ...
> 
> Another thing about cost, you'd be wise to make group buys from Shapeways ...
> 
> -Kent W.


Speaking of shipping charges, next time you order some, add an extra of the redesigned bigger one and I'll split the shipping with ya too.


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## kaerey (Jan 31, 2014)

kaerey said:


> Speaking of shipping charges, next time you order some, add an extra of the redesigned bigger one and I'll split the shipping with ya too.


Heck, make it one of each!


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## shuumai (Nov 23, 2013)

Nice work on those aperture rings. 

I'm going to order a pair of the polished 1/2" O-ring-only version. Seems like a good opportunity to try an open ring aperture as well as a larger diameter. I want the rings to be bright or paintable to contrast against target faces and buttresses, so I'm thinking white and/or pink.


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

I've found that since I redesigned them to use pan head screws, they can spin a little on the head of the screw. Not a big deal, but the best bet is to epoxy the head of the screw into the housing if it bugs you. 

Just so you know, the difference between the colored/polished ones and the unpolished white is simply that - they dye the white plastic to the color you order after they polish it. So, it stands to reason you should be able to paint/dye them whatever color tickles your fancy.

If you go for glass, don't even ask Edmund Optics how much it'd cost to get it drilled for fiber - they quoted me four figures. I thought it was a joke or a typo but it wasn't. They'll happily sell you an un-drilled piece of glass though.


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## shuumai (Nov 23, 2013)

williamskg6 said:


> I've found that since I redesigned them to use pan head screws, they can spin a little on the head of the screw. Not a big deal, but the best bet is to epoxy the head of the screw into the housing if it bugs you.
> 
> Just so you know, the difference between the colored/polished ones and the unpolished white is simply that - they dye the white plastic to the color you order after they polish it. So, it stands to reason you should be able to paint/dye them whatever color tickles your fancy.
> 
> If you go for glass, don't even ask Edmund Optics how much it'd cost to get it drilled for fiber - they quoted me four figures. I thought it was a joke or a typo but it wasn't. They'll happily sell you an un-drilled piece of glass though.


It might be nice if it could fit a lock washer then. 

Bright green seems to be a highly visible colour for me. I just ordered pink and purple though. (My wife likes purple and I wanted to try a darker colour, too.) Would acetone affect nylon, in case I paint it with nail polish and want to remove it?

Using glass doesn't seem like a good option for me because I have to turn the entire aperture to adjust windage. (A mod to a disappointing sight.) So if the dot isn't precisely centered, the elevation might be thrown off. Plus, the main reason for looking into a different aperture is to get rid of the post and dot.

One thing I was wondering about was the thickness of the ring. I'm thinking I need a big, bright ring so it doesn't disappear on me.


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

I've been shooting the 12.5mm housing, as is my daughter. We're shooting it open, with o-rings inside to alter I.D. 

I can say that the pink that Shapeways uses is quite intense, so I expect that the purple is pretty saturated too. With the o-ring only housing, you have a lot of options for o-ring selection, but the housing itself isn't very thick. The combination of o-ring plus those bright colors should work pretty well I would think, especially outdoors or in good lighting. 

-Kent W.


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## shuumai (Nov 23, 2013)

williamskg6 said:


> I've been shooting the 12.5mm housing, as is my daughter. We're shooting it open, with o-rings inside to alter I.D.
> 
> I can say that the pink that Shapeways uses is quite intense, so I expect that the purple is pretty saturated too. With the o-ring only housing, you have a lot of options for o-ring selection, but the housing itself isn't very thick. The combination of o-ring plus those bright colors should work pretty well I would think, especially outdoors or in good lighting.
> 
> -Kent W.


Sounds good. I was thinking of the lense ready version, but I'd have to rotate the aperture so the appearance probably wouldn't be consistent.

I wonder if printing 8-32 threats would work well. Too weak?


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## williamskg6 (Dec 21, 2008)

shuumai said:


> I wonder if printing 8-32 threats would work well. Too weak?


There are design limitations for the materials on 3D printers. Threads can be done, but not very well. Fine pitch, small diameter threads like 8-32 are problematic, and the automated printability checks would likely fail. Also, as you mention, the threads would not be very strong.

Besides, I drew these up intending that you could just walk into a local hardware store and pick up the needed parts and a threaded 8-32 rod isn't likely to be easily found at most common hardware stores. I really wanted to use hex head 8-32 screws, but they're not at all common at hardware stores. 

When you get your apertures assembled, post a photo. I'd love to see them!

-Kent W.


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## Unk Bond (Aug 1, 2004)

Hello
Very nice scope design. Would like to try one of the 5/8". 
At this time I'm using a 3/4" tube viewing a 1 1/2" 6 power lens.


Will go with Viper 1 on his prognosis of aiming through a open tube sight. It doesn't excite the eye.
I can and have made Len's the size of a dime. Even made one for that German sight that was pictured here. I have one. 

A Len's needs some light value. And when its choked down to a very small circle inside a tube.The clarity isn't the same..
Now a combination of the front part of a scope being big with a big lens . And the rear choked down. One still has focal value.

Where your all thread inters the side of the scope housing it can be taped for a set allen head flush bolt. If there's enough shoulder for threads. This will keep the scope from rotating.[ Later


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## Varza (Sep 11, 2014)

I'm just starting out in archery, and I will be lining up to get one of these. Plan to do Olympic Recurve, but still a while until I get my own gear. Oh, and I should *maaaaybe* start an intro thread


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