# How do you find your anchor?



## twelve-ring (Mar 3, 2015)

I'm sure it's been asked before, but what steps do you take to find your proper anchor? Where is the best place to anchor? I'd appreciate any help!


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Beings this is a target oriented forum, then either a thumb or hinge release. Mostly, I found mine through others and reading whatever I could. More is involved other than placing your hand just so and placing it to your jaw, but start with the jaw. Release hand is turned something of 45 degrees, palm out, but more to the person's preference. The index and middle fingers align to the jaw line. The index and middle finger hand knuckles should not be excessive back of the corner of the jaw. Too far back and "rocking" the release hand may take place. Index and middle finger aligned to the jaw line and hand knuckles right at the corner of the jaw make for a good, repeatable anchor point and kept there through the shot/release makes for consistency. The turning of the hand to thereof 45 degrees should complement or aid the release arm, elbow and shoulder. Back tension then supports the release shoulder/arm. "That feels terrible!" Well, about everything can be uncomfortable until one is use to something. You don't need to draw a bow to feel/find your anchor, just pretend. 

John Dudley instructing (his hand to student)....


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## duc (Jul 18, 2009)

If your a intermediate-advanced archer then you should know where your most consistent anchor is. Maybe better to ask on the coaches corner.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

duc said:


> If your a intermediate-advanced archer then you should know where your most consistent anchor is. Maybe better to ask on the coaches corner.


Looked in there a few times. It'd be nice to actually know a coach is responding and damn few give they are coaches in reply or signature.


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## Rick! (Aug 10, 2008)

If _I_ tied my anchor on, I find it on the end of my anchor rope. If my kid tied it on, I find it on the bottom of the lake.


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## RCR_III (Mar 19, 2011)

twelve-ring said:


> I'm sure it's been asked before, but what steps do you take to find your proper anchor? Where is the best place to anchor? I'd appreciate any help!


Welcome to the I&A forum haha and people wonder why nobody likes to come here and ask questions.....

Keeping your eyes closed so that you're not influenced by the peep, draw back and place the jaw bone between the first and second knuckles on the hand. 

That's a very simplistic answer. 

The less simplistic would be to align the release arm up correctly with how you execute your shot to get the best chance of hitting in the middle. 

If you're needing guidance from there you can pm me or email me anytime and I'd be glad to help you through it all.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Cheap shots don't help.....


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## catcherarcher (Sep 23, 2014)

Mine is the string touching the corner of my mouth and the tip of my nose, however my primary anchor is my jawbone in between my middle and index fingers with my knuckles just behind the back "knob" of my jaw in front of my ear lobe.


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## redman (Feb 22, 2003)

My primary anchor is the draw weight of the bow is in my back


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Even some of the best have a problem pop for no other reason than the problem popped up, they went brain dead. You don't see them post here because they've got someone to go one-on-one with or have a coach in their back pocket....AT is a problem in it's self. Posters need to go one-on-one in PM with their "pick" if for no other reason than block out the multitude of replies that gives rise to confusion.


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## RCR_III (Mar 19, 2011)

SonnyThomas said:


> Even some of the best have a problem pop for no other reason than the problem popped up, they went brain dead. You don't see them post here because they've got someone to go one-on-one with or have a coach in their back pocket....AT is a problem in it's self. Posters need to go one-on-one in PM with their "pick" if for no other reason than block out the multitude of replies that gives rise to confusion.


This is a good view point for sure. I think having other(s) that watch you shoot a lot can be a great tool. They usually see something off before you would. 

I always tell people that when they're on and doing well to film theirselves. And when they're in a slump film theirselves and watch both to see if anything glares. 

Sometimes it's just mental, but how often will the mental control a physical reaction too and have a sign to go off of.


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## twelve-ring (Mar 3, 2015)

I'm looking for those last few points, and they just may come from a tweak in my anchor point. I only wanted opinions on what works for others, and what methods you can use to find yours, not because it is a point where I am necessarily lacking, but it is just not something I have been coached on, or shot drills on.


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## RCR_III (Mar 19, 2011)

twelve-ring said:


> I'm looking for those last few points, and they just may come from a tweak in my anchor point. I only wanted opinions on what works for others, and what methods you can use to find yours, not because it is a point where I am necessarily lacking, but it is just not something I have been coached on, or shot drills on.


Do you use a hinge?


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

twelve-ring said:


> I'm looking for those last few points, and they just may come from a tweak in my anchor point. I only wanted opinions on what works for others, and what methods you can use to find yours, not because it is a point where I am necessarily lacking, but it is just not something I have been coached on, or shot drills on.


There are no short cuts. Experiment in TINY TINY amounts, and find out what anchor works best for you. Send a pm to Maui1911. "Maui1911" is his AT username. I have been working with him, on exactly this question. But, the answer is NOT as simple as just "where and HOW to find the best anchor". I tweaked his form, and in HIS case, no change to the bow draw length. Made some fundamental changes to the angles of major body parts, and then lots and lots of drills to burn in the NEW muscle memory. Then, told him to tweak the d-loop length..NO...d-loop tweaks do NOT change the bow draw length, but...tweaking the d-loop length DEFINITELY changes his anchor position for his release hand. BUT BUT BUT, how did Maui1911 know WHAT and WHEN and WHERE was his "best anchor"???? Duh. Based on shooting results. He made some discoveries, and Maui1911 was SURPRISED to learn what he learned. So, send Maui1911 a pm message, and tell him I sent ya. Much better for Maui1911 to explain all the steps that I put him through, in what order, so you can better understand how to apply the same process to you.


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## duc (Jul 18, 2009)

twelve-ring said:


> I'm looking for those last few points, and they just may come from a tweak in my anchor point. I only wanted opinions on what works for others, and what methods you can use to find yours, not because it is a point where I am necessarily lacking, but it is just not something I have been coached on, or shot drills on.


Experiment. Try different anchor points. Nobody here can do anything except tell you what they think, which at the end of the day only amounts to trial and error. You also need to keep track of scores over a period, not just a day or two so the honeymoon effect doesn't come into play. Personally I'd be looking at execution before anchor.


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## bfisher (Nov 30, 2002)

SonnyThomas said:


> Even some of the best have a problem pop for no other reason than the problem popped up, they went brain dead. You don't see them post here because they've got someone to go one-on-one with or have a coach in their back pocket....AT is a problem in it's self. Posters need to go one-on-one in PM with their "pick" if for no other reason than block out the multitude of replies that gives rise to confusion.


Good post, Sonny. It's true. There are way to many self proclaimed coaches and pros on AT. How is a beginner or anybody looking for help for that manner going to know who to listen to? Who is giving the best and comprehensive information? Most times it's best to pick a "coach" that seems to explain things in a detailed manner and work with only that one person. PM's work well for this. Lot less confusion for the person seeking help or advice.

However, my go-to advice is almost always to find a local archery club, join, and seek out one or two of the best target shooters. Most are willing to help if asked. We (I) realize that we all started somewhere and learned by asking, listening, and applying what that person was willing to teach. Hands-on is always a better option IMO. Seldom is it good to ask a "bowhunter" about shooting advice. Although shooting is part of hunting, just hunting isn't always about shooting.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

Some good advice above, especially redman's mention of anchoring in the back.

I've seldom seen an archer who had trouble finding their anchor. It certainly can be optimized per N&B. But the biggest problem I see is an archer repeating the anchor precisely on every shot. It's not always easy to do, especially if the bow is not set up to fit that archer. In fact a repeatable anchor is one thing I look for in fitting DL. You have to not only look at bow DL, but loop length too.

Anchor is one of those archery things that can be simple enough for Coaches Corner, but is really easy to complicate enough for the I-A Comp forum. 

Allen


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## dk_ace1 (Mar 31, 2015)

Here's my $.02... I'm not a coach and I'm not as talented as some of the archers in this forum, so keep in that in mind. I've made a lot of progress in the last year though.

I don't give a lot of thought to where I anchor my release hand. Where I anchor is a result of other factors. Currently, the driving force in my form is my bow shoulder position as I've found that to be critical to develop my shot correctly. I set my draw length so that my shoulder is where it needs to be (forward and low) and the string comes just past my mouth with the arrow under my eye and the string lightly touching the tip of my nose. I set my loop length so that my release arm is behind the string/arrow and the holding weight of the bow is in my back. I shoot a hinge and work on keeping a very loose, flat release hand/wrist. I set my peep for my average shooting distance. My anchor is where my hand happens to be when all of those things come together correctly. That works out to be a 2nd/3rd knuckle to jaw relationship typically, but on a very long shot it will vary from that. The rest of what I described won't change though, and that's why I focus on all of those other things and the anchor position is secondary. 

D


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## cbrunson (Oct 25, 2010)

dk_ace1 said:


> Here's my $.02... I'm not a coach and I'm not as talented as some of the archers in this forum, so keep in that in mind. I've made a lot of progress in the last year though.
> 
> I don't give a lot of thought to where I anchor my release hand. Where I anchor is a result of other factors. Currently, the driving force in my form is my bow shoulder position as I've found that to be critical to develop my shot correctly. I set my draw length so that my shoulder is where it needs to be (forward and low) and the string comes just past my mouth with the arrow under my eye and the string lightly touching the tip of my nose. I set my loop length so that my release arm is behind the string/arrow and the holding weight of the bow is in my back. I shoot a hinge and work on keeping a very loose, flat release hand/wrist. I set my peep for my average shooting distance. My anchor is where my hand happens to be when all of those things come together correctly. That works out to be a 2nd/3rd knuckle to jaw relationship typically, but on a very long shot it will vary from that. The rest of what I described won't change though, and that's why I focus on all of those other things and the anchor position is secondary.
> 
> D


Exactly what I do, and what I believe is the best way to consider anchor. My anchor is peep alignment and string to my nose. Where you hand hits your face will change slightly with changes in elevation on your sight, especially if you are shooting a slow bow.


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## LMacD (Mar 16, 2015)

cbrunson said:


> ...especially if you are shooting a slow bow.


Definitely true. I'm noticing this already with my Prime One. Not that it's "slow", but certainly slower than my Rival, which I'm more accustomed to. It will be interesting to see how much it moves when I set up the One for Redding distances.


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

For me it comes from years of being a entry level shooter and fighting my anchor every stinking shot, why? Because someone else set my peep and it was just there and I never messed with it. Even when I got better I still struggled because I got it perfected with a wrist strap and then got into hinge shooting and didn't make a peep change to allow my hinge anchor to be perfect so I was right back to fighting with it. 

Right now I have my draw length really solid and d-loop length spot on and when I come to full draw things just work perfect, my nose touches the string and my peep is perfect and the anchor on my jaw just feels right. I don't feel around for anything, I just come back and I am there. To me this is very important and if you come back to full draw and you have to move around and feel for the location or you have to try and line up the peep then you are Fighting With the Peep.

To me this is a multi layered thing and something just like getting your stabilizers set up, you need to spend a day or two specifically working on this area. I like to do it with no peep in the bow, the minute you put a peep in the string you will put effort into making the peep line up and the moment you do that you have changed the anchor. That is why I take it out and just shoot at 35 yards when it is 3d season or 20 yards if it is indoor season and I allow the anchor and the string on my nose settle into the perfect location. I do sight in the bow at 35 or 20 yards without the peep in the bow. I don't do windage and only do the up and down setting. Then I put a piece of masking tape on the string and move it until I have the perfect location for the peep. 

When I do this shooting session it allows me to come to anchor and be perfect without putting out any effort or fighting with the peep.


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## wannaBelkhuntin (Jul 3, 2006)

Personally I am glad that those of you that enjoy the instructing/coaching aspect of archery don't feel the same as duc about this question. I have been shooting since before compound bows and somehow lost my anchor point, I finally realized something was out of place when my string started hitting my cheek but still didn't realize what was going on. Then one day the shop owner was shooting and I was watching him. As he drew his bow he touched the string to his nose, at that point I realized that my anchor had gotten to back by my ear. This happened a couple weeks ago.

The post by Padgett opened my eyes to what I am currently doing with my SHC set up. I draw the bow back and then I have to drop my anchor point slightly to see through the peep so tonight I will drop my peep a little and see if I can get to a more natural anchor point. Thanks guys.


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

Cool, it is so stinking hard to not just put up a fresh target and just shoot day after day after day. For me it usually takes me a week or so to force myself to do one of these shooting sessions such as this one where I specifically work on my anchor and then my peep. 

Some of my favorite sessions:

1. anchor and peep.

2. Hinge speed

3. Drawing the bow and coming to full draw and settling in. 

4. Stabilizer setup

5. Breathing

6. Sight tape

Some of these can be incorporated into normal shooting sessions and some have to be done by themselves and are more of a commitment. The peep and anchor one for me are a huge commitment because I totally take my peep out for this one. I just never feel like I get a pure look at things if the peep is in there because my natural desire to center it. The moment I do that I loose the ability to find the perfect anchor. 

One thing that has really helped me in making the peep location and anchor shooting session something I can just commit to is the fact that I am no longer scared to sight in my bow. For years I struggled to get it dead on because I just didn't really know how to do it. but since I learned to use a thin piece of vertical and horizontal tape on my target I can now get my bow dead on in minutes and this allows me to not be afraid of losing my accuracy before a tournament. Why, Because I can just get it back right now.


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