# Help! Paper Tuned My Bow... Now It's Crossed-Up. [Pics].



## SlickNickel (Jul 14, 2014)

If you want the arrow to sit dead in line with the mark on the shelf, assuming your arrow spine is right, then you will need a press. Move the arrow rest back to where the arrow is dead in line with the mark on the riser. Then shoot through paper again for a base line/starting point. If you have a right tear, then press the bow, and add a couple of twists you the right side yoke of the "Y" cable. Then take a couple of twists out of the left side yoke of the "Y" cable. Shoot through paper again, and see what it did to your tear. Adjust with yokes until you get a perfect bullet hole.


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## Ehunter42 (Mar 3, 2010)

Could it be hand torque? I agree that it could be in the yoke tuning, but also seeing that you are new to compound bows, I think torque might be the biggest part of your problem.


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## ibbob50 (Jul 13, 2014)

Thanks for the replies, guys.

SlickNickel... I've got some "economical" carbon arrows from Cabelas. 340 spine -- 125 grain field point -- 29" from nock-crotch to insert. Should these be ok for a 60-65# draw weight? Shooting a PSE Prophecy, if that makes a difference.

Ehunter42... Me being so green, I can't rule that out. But I do try to consciously limit my torquing.

I think I may just reset and start over again. This archery stuff is a black art!


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## wvbowhunter09 (Mar 14, 2009)

What bow....DNA?


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## ibbob50 (Jul 13, 2014)

PSE Prophecy.

I think my arrows might be a bit long for my DL of 26.5"


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## bfisher (Nov 30, 2002)

From looking at the paper tear and the pictures of rest orientation I'd say they both show a slight low nock position. The tear is also slightly right.


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## SlickNickel (Jul 14, 2014)

bfisher said:


> From looking at the paper tear and the pictures of rest orientation I'd say they both show a slight low nock position. The tear is also slightly right.


Yep, I agree. In order to fix that slight right, he'd have to move the rest further left. I recommend setting that arrow back to center shot and yoke tuning.


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## SlickNickel (Jul 14, 2014)

ibbob50 said:


> Thanks for the replies, guys.
> 
> SlickNickel... I've got some "economical" carbon arrows from Cabelas. 340 spine -- 125 grain field point -- 29" from nock-crotch to insert. Should these be ok for a 60-65# draw weight? Shooting a PSE Prophecy, if that makes a difference.
> 
> ...


Those arrows are a bit long, but arrow length is just a personal preference. Some like them short to keep weight down, etc and others like them longer to keep the broadheads out in front of their hand. When I determine arrow length, I cut them to the length where they spine out just right. Although those arrows are long for your draw length, according to On Target 2 they spine out perfectly.

Look at your grip or have an experienced shooter look at your grip, and reset the bow to where the arrow is in line with the mark on the shelf, and have your shop yoke tune it from there to correct the paper tears.


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## ElMuchoHombre (Aug 17, 2013)

When I tune a bow, I set the rest to center and don't touch the windage on it. I only mess with elevation if I can get the high/low tears out by other means. I yoke tune until it's shooting a bullet, I will stubbornly refuse to move centershot. If it were me, I would set it back at centershot and find a press, yoke tune it until you get what you're looking for, as mentioned your nock point is a little low. I keep the arrow dead level at brace unless I'm forced to do otherwise, and just move the nock point up/down, and the rest correspondingly until high/low tears are gone.


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## ibbob50 (Jul 13, 2014)

You guys f___ing rock!

Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to a shop tomorrow so hopefully they can give me some pointers on my form.

I now plan on giving it a bit of a yoke-tune. After inspecting the yoke on my bow, I noticed the shooter's-right one (gray) is twisted WAY up and the shooter's-left one (red) has no twist whatsoever. This is how it was delivered from the factory. Check it out.










I also cranked her up to 70lbs to see if more draw weight would fix my tail-right condition. Nope.

Are PSE strings junk?

I'll give her a yoke-tune and report back!


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## beaverman (Jun 21, 2008)

Your yoke is twisted up on one side to offset cam or idler lean that is caused by your cable slide pulling the cables off to one side of the bow. I would walk back tune the bow to get your centershot then try shooting through paper. No point in working at getting bulletholes in paper if your center shot is way off and you have to readjust everything anyway. When I set up a bow I walk back tune then broadhead tune, usually that is where it ends for me. If I have an issue or feel something can be fine tuned then I'll shoot through paper.


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## montigre (Oct 13, 2008)

You're not going to get very good results until you've had much more time behind the string. Your tuning is only going to be as good as you're able to shoot. I'd suggest that you take the bow to your shop and have them set it up for you and tune it and then just shoot it for a few months. 

After that time learning your form and shot sequence, then think about supertuning it to yourself.


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## ibbob50 (Jul 13, 2014)

Thanks for all the replies you guys. I really appreciate it.

Ok, I've now read lots about yoke-tuning and cam lean and limb twist. I even understand why the right (gray) string is all twisty now... thanks beaverman. Shucks, I even built my own $20 bow press today thanks to the AT forums! I tried some yoke tuning, and it yielded little to no improvement. Achieved noticeable cam-lean expecting a change, but have the same tear pattern in my paper. More on that in a bit.

Went to the shop. Got a couple pointers on my form. Even had a couple of the pros sling some arrows with my bow. Here's what they said:

re: form -- "You shoot like a new guy. Your form isn't terrible, but you hold the arrows (at draw) way too long." They made a couple tweaks to my stance, posture, etc.

re: arrows -- "Your nocks are WAY too tight." We were able to pull the string off the stringstop about 3/16" using the arrow only. Apparently my serving is too fat for Easton Super Nocks.

re: tail-right tear pattern -- One of the shop guys put some of my arrows through paper... tail right. Then he pointed out some telltale markings on my fletchings. He claimed that the mark on the left vane indicates the tail getting kicked to the right, just like we're seeing on my paper at home.

So, my arrow nocks suck, my vanes are hitting something, and my form is fair at best. They suggested I use a drop-away rest (I know, I know... WB vs. Dropaway, here we go.)

Here's a pic of the lower left vanes. What the hell are they hitting?:


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## beaverman (Jun 21, 2008)

With your arrow running through your rest angled out to the left as pictured the vane is most likely hitting the frame of the biscuit. Did you walk back tune the bow at all? I can't see how centershot would be right with the picture of your arrow running off to the left like that.


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## SlickNickel (Jul 14, 2014)

That's why its important to seek help not only on the forums, but in person. We can't see you shoot, or see all of your equipment, your grip, etc. We just go off of the information that is given. It sounds like you have a pretty good shop, and that is a very good thing. You definitely need to find where that contact is and eliminate it. Good luck!


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## tank69kma (May 1, 2013)

Tagged...good info.


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## ibbob50 (Jul 13, 2014)

beaverman said:


> ...Did you walk back tune the bow at all?


I believe that's today/tomorrow's project.



SlickNickel said:


> ...You definitely need to find where that contact is and eliminate it. Good luck!


Roger. Applying lipstick and baby-powder to my bow/arrows. Neighbors think I've lost it. 

I'll keep y'all updated with info and pics. I like to close out my threads so others can learn from them.


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## ibbob50 (Jul 13, 2014)

Ok guys. Here it is. I am completely embarrassed. Looks like I owe you all an apology. I am sorry for wasting everyone's time. I really appreciate the help from everyone, and I mean that. SlickNickel, montigre, beaverman, etc... you guys all rock. 

I am responsible for most of the problem. I didn't want to believe my grip was the problem but it was. I blamed everything about the bow first before I just experimented with my grip. I concentrated on applying pressure to the rear of the grip, right square on its bee-hind. It felt unnatural at first, but so does everything that requires discipline/form. I was being lazy.

Here's what happens when you're lazy and you apply pressure to the riser like this:









And here's what happens when you make just a tiny adjustment to your grip:









THE VERY FIRST POST in this thread is what your bow will look like if you adjust everything to compensate for your crappy grip. That's what I did. Hopefully this thread will serve to show the new guys (like me), that the bow won't do it for you. I'm glad I stuck with it and figured it out because it's been making me crazy.

I did some testing in case there was abnormal contact with my arrow rest. There was none. The markings on my left fletchings are from when I had the WB all out of line and crossed up.

Thanks again for taking the time to help fellas. Great community here. 

I've got some practicing to do. I'll be on the range if anyone needs me.


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## hoyttech13 (Feb 3, 2010)

sounds like this is an intentional thread


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## ibbob50 (Jul 13, 2014)

hoyttech13 said:


> sounds like this is an intentional thread


Please elaborate.


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