# Fine tuning Knock height



## dangerous dan (Jan 9, 2008)

Couple questions.

Why does a bow tune nock high with a drop away?

Seems funny that paper is good enough for up and down adjustment but wallback is needed for center shot because paper isn't good enough.

If you set your arrow to center on the berneger hole and adjust the loop to get bullet holes in paper then wallback or french tune to fine adjust centershot do you do anything further to fine tune your loop position or rest height?


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## dangerous dan (Jan 9, 2008)

Anybody?


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## Ches (Aug 3, 2009)

Yes, I fix Blade Broadhead tune. You may need to adjust both vertical and horizontal when you do this. I might get flack on this, but Paper is great for figuring out the right shaft, but once you have that, it is just a starting point. I skip it because I have the right shaft and go right to walk back the Fixed blade BH tuning. Just the way I do things.


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## BlacktailBryan (Aug 12, 2010)

I can maybe explain why a drop away makes a bow tune nock high.
A drop away is only supporting the shaft for a short time. So the rear of the shaft is left for gravity.
Set the nock a little higher, and by the time the tail of the arrow gets to the rest/riser, it is pretty much leaving the bow as the front of the shaft did.
Also, many bows have vertical nock travel, so there is more string being pulled from the bottom cam than the top, causing even more downward force on the rear of the arrow.
And, as Ches said, paper tuning is mainly a starting point, I use it to make sure the arrow is leaving my bow clean as possible.
By the time I walk-back tune, and broadhead tune, my bow would probably not paper tune anymore, but I shoot out to 60 yards, and never shoot at 6ft, so its ok.


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## nomad11 (Apr 14, 2006)

Hmmm, been shooting a drop away for several years...my bows don't tune nock high but more along the lines of level. Paper does help me get the up/down set which, as noted tends to be level or close to it (if off, I'll check cam timing and tiller, which usually will correct any issues). Left and right? Paper has helped considerably....as a shooter of a cam and 1/2 system, I've adjusted rest setting and Y yoke adjustments to get what is desired as far as centershot. With that I've been lucky I guess and invariably close between FP and BH. But as noted above...there is nothing like seeing how it performs on the range, which is the ultimate test. Most times its been pretty good and on occasion, dead on. That said I'm not convinced yet everyone fully understands walkback tuning...like when its the rest vice sight setting(s) or axis tuning. I'm betting there are a number of folks who say the walkback is good...when there are really lurking issues.


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## BlacktailBryan (Aug 12, 2010)

nomad11 said:


> Hmmm, been shooting a drop away for several years...my bows don't tune nock high but more along the lines of level. Paper does help me get the up/down set which, as noted tends to be level or close to it (if off, I'll check cam timing and tiller, which usually will correct any issues). Left and right? Paper has helped considerably....as a shooter of a cam and 1/2 system, I've adjusted rest setting and Y yoke adjustments to get what is desired as far as centershot. With that I've been lucky I guess and invariably close between FP and BH. But as noted above...there is nothing like seeing how it performs on the range, which is the ultimate test. Most times its been pretty good and on occasion, dead on. That said I'm not convinced yet everyone fully understands walkback tuning...like when its the rest vice sight setting(s) or axis tuning. I'm betting there are a number of folks who say the walkback is good...when there are really lurking issues.



Hmmm, Ive been shooting a drop away for several years, and mine on my bows like to be between 1/8", even a little more than nock high.
I was also taught tuning by a reputable tuner on here, so before you decide to tell people they probably dont know what they are talking about,
you might specify who your talking to.

There is also a lot of high speed video available that shows what I was referring to about drop away rests and arrow support. I didnt say every bow, every rest that this was the case.


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## skye5317 (Feb 28, 2009)

On my bows, which are all bibaries, I get the best tune with the nock set for level. I do this with any rest that I have used including TT Smackdown, qads, expert pros and whosker biscuits.


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## SARASR (Oct 30, 2009)

BlacktailBryan said:


> Hmmm, Ive been shooting a drop away for several years, and mine on my bows like to be between 1/8", even a little more than nock high.
> I was also taught tuning by a reputable tuner on here, so before you decide to tell people they probably dont know what they are talking about,
> you might specify who your talking to.
> 
> There is also a lot of high speed video available that shows what I was referring to about drop away rests and arrow support. I didnt say every bow, every rest that this was the case.


No offence intended here but I saw nowhere in his post where he said anyone did not know what they were talking about. I have had bows that were nock high and now shoot with 2 that are level with 2 different rests, I always felt it had more to do with the bow than the rest itself, but then some rests do drop earlier than others and that can have an effect also. That being said I completely agree with the comment about paper tuning for spine and potential issues and believe many people put far too much stock in paper tuning (i once was one of them), it has its place but is only one piece of the puzzle.


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## mpchopper (Mar 7, 2011)

I bareshaft tune at 25yards to get nock height. I start with paper, then bareshaft tune for nock height and side adjustment of the rest. If the bareshafts are hitting at the same angles (up, down, side to side) and grouping together. Then I do a walkback to confirm proper adjustment. I did a write up for my nephew on the whole tuning procedure. Let me know if you would want a simplified tuning guide. I can e mail it to ya.


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## BlacktailBryan (Aug 12, 2010)

SARASR said:


> No offence intended here but I saw nowhere in his post where he said anyone did not know what they were talking about. I have had bows that were nock high and now shoot with 2 that are level with 2 different rests, I always felt it had more to do with the bow than the rest itself, but then some rests do drop earlier than others and that can have an effect also. That being said I completely agree with the comment about paper tuning for spine and potential issues and believe many people put far too much stock in paper tuning (i once was one of them), it has its place but is only one piece of the puzzle.


Non taken with me, I took offense with him saying most people here dont know what walk-back tuning really is, as me, and a few others mentioned it in our replies to the OP.
Also, I said told the OP what has worked for me, in my experiences, and he made it sound like because every bow he sets up shoots good nock level, that the rest of us are wrong for having ours setup nock high.


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## nomad11 (Apr 14, 2006)

BlacktailBryan

So to clarify, if I can. First off, no offense intended and second, I don't believe in absolutes in tuning. Starting the tuning process nock high...and finding that it is the right setting for a particular set up is fine. Starting level and ending level is okay too. Ending somewhere in between works as well, given all the variables involved. If it came across as an absolute (i.e one must have a level nock) ....it was not my intention.

As for walk back tuning, I would like to think that many understand the intent of that process, but remain unconvinced that everyone grasps the various aspects involved (hence my reference to sights/sight axis), to include myself. This was not intended to question your personal knowledge. It was more a reflection on seeing a number of posts on AT asking for walk back tuning help/explanation, what is 2nd/3rd axis, and why, after walk back tuning does one's broad heads hit a different spot (etc.). Not to mention a sticky or two.

Regret any offense in my original post....it was not my intention.


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## BlacktailBryan (Aug 12, 2010)

nomad11 said:


> BlacktailBryan
> 
> So to clarify, if I can. First off, no offense intended and second, I don't believe in absolutes in tuning. Starting the tuning process nock high...and finding that it is the right setting for a particular set up is fine. Starting level and ending level is okay too. Ending somewhere in between works as well, given all the variables involved. If it came across as an absolute (i.e one must have a level nock) ....it was not my intention.
> 
> ...


I apologize for taking your post personal, and taking it out of context.
As far as tuning, I will be the first to admit, I am far from knowing everything about tuning,
but I am learning from some of the best IMO, and you are correct, there are many variables,
and what works for one, wont work for another, individuals make a difference in setup, as does the equipment.
If I can try to help someone at all on here, I can only offer what I have learned in my experiences.

At any rate, Im sorry for coming off as an arse, and for taking your post wrong.:embara:


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## nomad11 (Apr 14, 2006)

BlacktailBryan - Appreciate the reply and consideration. No worries here...and I plan to keep learning along with you. Good luck to you sir!


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