# ILF Risers



## Nick728 (Oct 19, 2014)

Just curious, anyone shooting an ILF Riser? Which one? How do you like it? 
Nick


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## thewaterfowlife (Feb 10, 2018)

I tried them but with little success


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## Belicoso (Aug 22, 2006)

Been shooting some since my first in 2006.Have tried a few from 17-21 inch riser length.Always aluminum cause I like this material best for these type risers.Currently again a 19 inch riser with long limbs, its my fav. riser and limb length combo.


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## rhust (Oct 8, 2002)

CD Archery WF19 with medium limbs.


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## bigfoot522 (Jan 27, 2013)

Ilf is awesome. Many limbs to choose from.
It's all in what you like.


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## Bowmania (Jan 3, 2003)

ANYONE at Lancaster NOT shooting ILF. It's the setup of choice for competition.

I'm shooting a Tempest.

Bowmania


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

I've owned and shot a bunch of'em and too this day still have a love/hate thing going on with them yet?...there's a Spig ILF 650 Club BB rig hanging on my wall as I type this and is the only rig I reach for when absolute precision is the order of the day or?...for venues requiring shots further than 30yds.

The Pros of ILF are...the plethora of interchangeable limb (for all ILF risers) and grip options (for the machined alum. risers) they offer along with a great range of adjustable tune-ability.

The things that "personally" don't appeal to me are that I just have a strong preference for single piece or bolt-down wood laminated bows.

But ILF is a great path for the new archer to start out on as they offer the new archer an infinite range of options until they discover what grip profiles and draw weights suit them best.


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## Nick728 (Oct 19, 2014)

I shoot Olympic recurve and have a bunch of long limbs. I'm enjoying traditional better. I've tried an Olympic riser for trad but found it not to my liking. I'm thinking about the TradTech Trident in a 21". I understand the aluminium raisers are great but the lighter weight wood is easier on my old shoulders. A 64" Bear Super K I have is comfortable even with my 30+ inch draw making a 19" riser a consideration. After look at the Hoyt Santori & Gillio I prefer the light wood risers. Even my compounds are giving my aging shoulders some issues. 
Just trying to decide on an ILF or the Bear Take Down as my next toy.
regards
Nick


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## Beendare (Jan 31, 2006)

*I like em*

Since no thread is any good without pics.....grin

I like the versatility and the adjustable weight range.....and the fact you can slap on some top of the line limbs. 

I would buy a custom bow....but all of the customs I've owned or tried just don't have the feel of my ILF's.


Heres 2....Morrison riser with SF Elite plus limbs [$250]
Dryad riser with WW innos [$400 bought on sale]

The Morrison is older about 06-07, Dryad I bought at their Nov sale a couple yards ago.... they have every year






















The Morrison is still my favorite


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## Hunter Dave (Jul 17, 2007)

Nick728 said:


> Just curious, anyone shooting an ILF Riser? Which one? How do you like it?
> Nick


Nick, there are lots of ILF riser options out there. With metal riser lengths ranging from about 13" to 27" and up to five different limb lengths (x-short, short, medium, long, xlong) an ILF bow can be configured to cover just about any intended purpose (overall lengths from 52" to 74"). If you're interested in wood ILF risers, the riser length options are more limited. 

Just a suggestion, but why don't you tell the forum more about your weight/draw length goals, specific interests, and intended use? This may help you get the feedback you are seeking.


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## Squirrel (Aug 6, 2008)

I am a Hunter and recently bought a TradTech Titan II 17" riser. I also have TradTech 45# Medium limbs. I am very happy with it.


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## Nick728 (Oct 19, 2014)

Hunter Dave said:


> Nick, there are lots of ILF riser options out there. With metal riser lengths ranging from about 13" to 27" and up to five different limb lengths (x-short, short, medium, long, xlong) an ILF bow can be configured to cover just about any intended purpose (overall lengths from 52" to 74"). If you're interested in wood ILF risers, the riser length options are more limited.
> 
> Just a suggestion, but why don't you tell the forum more about your weight/draw length goals, specific interests, and intended use? This may help you get the feedback you are seeking.


Dave, I've been shooting well over 60 years and just got back to trad recurve. I shoot a lot, mostly 3D with both compound and now with traditional bows. Since I shoot a lot draw weight is important, since I no longer hunt I try to keep DW sane and comfortable. I find that 3D a DW between 35 & max 45#, with recurve & under 60# with compound is about right. My 30+" draw is tricking when choosing limbs. My shoulders, in winter, bark like hell if I get stupid with draw weight. I've been shooting Olympic recurve for a few years and enjoy the ILF system on the Oly. I've recently notice shoulder issues with heavy mass weight & although I know metal risers are stiffer, better and more flexible I'm only looking for a sweet shooting, light and accurate bow for a walk in the woods with my buddies. I've tried an 25" SF forged riser for trad, I don't care for it. I have a couple of Hoyt Oly risers, Hoyt, Win and Win & SF limbs. a Couple of Samick Sages, one 60" and one 62" & a Bear Super Kodiak 64#. 64" or more is all I will consider for a new bow. A 35# limb gives me closer to 40" and depending on the quality of the limb smoothness is more important than draw weight. Right now reducing mass weight is a must and doing research before buying another toy is adding to my knowledge base. 
Nick


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## Stephen Morley (Aug 11, 2016)

Went through a few risers to find one that suited me, in truth it's pretty hard to find a bad ILF and some of the older models that were top of the range can now be had for a steal,.For Barebow Stringwalking style I found the grip and how well you can balance the bow plays a big part.

The riser I've owned last 4 years is a Stolid Bull Vanquish, VERY expensive but typical German engineering, I had some success internationally in Field, 3D and Indoors with this riser.


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## Bill 2311 (Jun 24, 2005)

You should do a topic search on "Ilf".
You will.get more threads than you care to read.


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

Nick728 said:


> Dave, I've been shooting well over 60 years and just got back to trad recurve. I shoot a lot, mostly 3D with both compound and now with traditional bows. Since I shoot a lot draw weight is important, since I no longer hunt I try to keep DW sane and comfortable. I find that 3D a DW between 35 & max 45#, with recurve & under 60# with compound is about right. My 30+" draw is tricking when choosing limbs. My shoulders, in winter, bark like hell if I get stupid with draw weight. I've been shooting Olympic recurve for a few years and enjoy the ILF system on the Oly. I've recently notice shoulder issues with heavy mass weight & although I know metal risers are stiffer, better and more flexible I'm only looking for a sweet shooting, light and accurate bow for a walk in the woods with my buddies. I've tried an 25" SF forged riser for trad, I don't care for it. I have a couple of Hoyt Oly risers, Hoyt, Win and Win & SF limbs. a Couple of Samick Sages, one 60" and one 62" & a Bear Super Kodiak 64#. 64" or more is all I will consider for a new bow. A 35# limb gives me closer to 40" *and depending on the quality of the limb smoothness is more important than draw weight. Right now reducing mass weight is a must and doing research before buying another toy is adding to my knowledge base.*
> Nick


Nick...*^^THOSE^^*...last two sentences?...beg that I advise you to research and delve into the dark world of Big Hook Limbs...AKA: Super Recurves.

The way I see it?...they are a Godsend for those of us with well seasoned shoulder joints as they have a super smooth backend and store more energy per pound of DW than any limbs of conventional profile.

My 3D go too bow is a Border Covert Hunter w/ Hex7.5 limbs and while they are only 38# limbs?...they store 1.25ftlbs of energy per pound of DW where conventional limbs typically store .9-.98ftlbs of energy per pound of DW.

What this translates too is my 38# Hex7.5 CH Super Recurve preforms more like a 50# Conventional recurve.

Now Border Bows being the leading innovator of Big Hook SR type limbs is my personal preference but they are quite pricey however they are not the only ones producing such as Morrison Archery now offers their Max5 SR limbs and I do believe Zipper Bows has SR limb offerings as well or at the very least?...Uuhka offers up what they call their Xcurve series of limbs and while not really full blown SR type limbs?...they are extremely smooth and do have a stored energy performance advantage over limbs of conventional profile.

Wouldn't it be nice to have a 35# bow that preforms more like a 45# bow? 

I've owned and been shooting mine for a year now...it's my most valued bow....(and I've owned many)...




















It's fast...






and it's "Powerful"....






and are available in ILF configuration but like I said previously?...I personally prefer Bolt-Downs.

Just something to consider...happy shopping Nick!


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## Stephen Morley (Aug 11, 2016)

Maybe some information on what length and type of ILF appeals, Wood or Carbon can give light mass if that's what you need, a lot of choices that can be narrowed down with more information.


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## sawtoothscream (Apr 19, 2008)

I use a tradtech titan II w/ black max carbons extremes. Can be found rather cheap and shoots well. Would love to try a wf19 though


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## Nick728 (Oct 19, 2014)

JINKSTER said:


> Nick...*^^THOSE^^*...last two sentences?...beg that I advise you to research and delve into the dark world of Big Hook Limbs...AKA: Super Recurves.
> 
> The way I see it?...they are a Godsend for those of us with well seasoned shoulder joints as they have a super smooth backend and store more energy per pound of DW than any limbs of conventional profile.
> 
> ...


Good information, thank you


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## Hunter Dave (Jul 17, 2007)

Well, Jinks, it's kinda funny what each person gets out of a conversation. The main element of Nick's description that I focused on was: "I'm only looking for a sweet shooting, light and accurate bow for a walk in the woods with my buddies". 

Based upon that part, Nick, I'd suggest you check out a 19" or 21" riser with longs. Tradtech's 19" Trident at 1.4# and their 21" Trident at 1.5# are some of the lightest and most affordable wood risers out there. For light aluminum risers, Hoyt's 21" aluminum Excel comes in at 2# and SF offers a 21" Axiom at 2.11#. As you know, most other aluminum risers will run heavier. Good luck with your search!


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## norton850 (Feb 4, 2010)

Here is some info on ILF risers I posted from another thread.

Trying to compare a metal handled ILF bow to a one piece recurve like a bear grizzly is an unfair comparison. I to prefer a one piece recurve for feel and balance and overall weight.

But when you want a bow that is versital and easy to swap limbs and add any accesories , sights, rests quivers etc. a metal handled ilf bow is the best choice.

A better comparison would be a ILF bow with a quality wooded riser. 

The other issue with wooded riser bows or composit ones is that in order to mount any accessories they must be drilled out and have threaded inserts epoxied in place and often the wood or plastic riser easily splits or is damaged in the process. Even if installed properly the inserts tend to split the wood riser or crack around the insert even in the composit riser.

For metal ILF risers if you want to buy real American made go with the following

Hoyt Satori $365 cash on the counter at any reasonable dealer 17 " 19" 21 " 

Trade Tech Titan 2 or 3 - 17" & 19" $425 new , used $275-$325

Morrison risers around $350-$450 depending on model.

Hoyt excell 21 riser used , $100- $150 alloy billet machined 

SF 23 inch premium forged and machine riser $289

Chinese Billet made fully machined risers 17" 19" 21" from Junixing in China called F261 bow or riser $80-$135 for the riser , $165 -$210 depending on the riser. They also have the F162 riser and bow that looks like a copy of a Morrison Phoenix. Contact Henna Ma on face book she is factory rep. Shipping is only $25 - $38 for an entire bow and will arrive in 6 - 10 days. Look out for American dealers selling Junxing bows rebranded and marking up the bows considerably.

Samick Discovery $395 complete bow 17" billet alloy machined riser, black anodized , buy directly from famington archery in the USA


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## Nick728 (Oct 19, 2014)

Hunter Dave said:


> Well, Jinks, it's kinda funny what each person gets out of a conversation. The main element of Nick's description that I focused on was: "I'm only looking for a sweet shooting, light and accurate bow for a walk in the woods with my buddies".
> 
> Based upon that part, Nick, I'd suggest you check out a 19" or 21" riser with longs. Tradtech's 19" Trident at 1.4# and their 21" Trident at 1.5# are some of the lightest and most affordable wood risers out there. For light aluminum risers, Hoyt's 21" aluminum Excel comes in at 2# and SF offers a 21" Axiom at 2.11#. As you know, most other aluminum risers will run heavier. Good luck with your search!


Thanks Hunter Dave, I just tried my 25"SF with W&W Winex limbs. I didn't like the SF with other limbs I tried before but I do like it with the Winex limbs. These limbs are the only ones I have in Medium, all my other limbs are Long. I'd rather shoot off the shelf but I can live with the SF with a bolt on rest. Not sure what if anything I should do with the plunger but it shoot well for now. Without a sight shooting trad I have to "cant" to about 2 o'clock to get my eyes over the arrow making the plunger a questionable addition. The difference in feel between a wood one piece or wood take down compared to the SF forged is like day and night. Since I'm not looking for another competition bow what I have to work with is a good start. 
Thanks for the feedback
Nick


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## Nick728 (Oct 19, 2014)

norton850 said:


> Here is some info on ILF risers I posted from another thread.
> 
> Trying to compare a metal handled ILF bow to a one piece recurve like a bear grizzly is an unfair comparison. I to prefer a one piece recurve for feel and balance and overall weight.
> 
> ...


Good information, thank you.
Nick


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## Don_Parsons (Feb 9, 2018)

Tag


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## Hunter Dave (Jul 17, 2007)

Nick, if you don't care for the elevated rest/plunger setup, you could create a shelf bump and stick it on the riser with 2-sided tape. If you built it high enough, it could be used in conjunction with the plunger or even a simple bolt threaded into the plunger hole.


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## Nick728 (Oct 19, 2014)

Hunter Dave said:


> Nick, if you don't care for the elevated rest/plunger setup, you could create a shelf bump and stick it on the riser with 2-sided tape. If you built it high enough, it could be used in conjunction with the plunger or even a simple bolt threaded into the plunger hole.


Thank you Hunter Dave, building up the SF Forged is tricky, the shelf isn't square. No matter, I shot is yesterday with a Champion rest and plunger it shot great. I have a Nap rest I can switch out, if needed, and as much as i would like shooting off the shelf a rest on the SF really is less problematic.
Nick


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## j.conner (Nov 12, 2009)

ILF is a great way to go - there are just so many options.


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## Hunter Dave (Jul 17, 2007)

Nick, the shelf curvature of the SF riser can easily be dealt with. Get a tube of plumber's epoxy (~ $5 at Home Depot). First, cover the bare shelf with a couple of generous strips of 2" wide plastic packing tape, applying just enough gentle pressure to make it stick. The purpose of the tape is to protect your riser from the epoxy during the molding process and should not be firmly applied. Cut off a chunk and, wearing rubber gloves, knead until mixed. Then fashion a slightly oversize shelf bump with it and mold into the desired place on the tape-covered shelf. Do not allow any epoxy to get onto your bare riser! After 30 minutes or so, the molded piece should be rock hard. Pull the newly hardened piece off the riser along with the tape. With it off the riser, sand or file the contours to final dimensions. If you happen to sand away too much material, simply mix up a small gob of epoxy, build the area back up, and re-shape. Once the bump is final finished, give exposed surfaces a light coat of paint and apply finished bump to your riser using 2-sided tape. Cover bump with a swatch of wooly velcro or leather. This process is really easier than it might seem. Good luck!


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## yegon (Aug 15, 2017)

other than super cheap price or aesthetic preference for a specific non ILF bow I cant think of a reason why I would buy a non ILF riser


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## Nick728 (Oct 19, 2014)

Hunter Dave said:


> Nick, the shelf curvature of the SF riser can easily be dealt with. Get a tube of plumber's epoxy (~ $5 at Home Depot). First, cover the bare shelf with a couple of generous strips of 2" wide plastic packing tape, applying just enough gentle pressure to make it stick. The purpose of the tape is to protect your riser from the epoxy during the molding process and should not be firmly applied. Cut off a chunk and, wearing rubber gloves, knead until mixed. Then fashion a slightly oversize shelf bump with it and mold into the desired place on the tape-covered shelf. Do not allow any epoxy to get onto your bare riser! After 30 minutes or so, the molded piece should be rock hard. Pull the newly hardened piece off the riser along with the tape. With it off the riser, sand or file the contours to final dimensions. If you happen to sand away too much material, simply mix up a small gob of epoxy, build the area back up, and re-shape. Once the bump is final finished, give exposed surfaces a light coat of paint and apply finished bump to your riser using 2-sided tape. Cover bump with a swatch of wooly velcro or leather. This process is really easier than it might seem. Good luck!


Excellent, thank you


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## GEREP (May 6, 2003)

Nick728 said:


> Just curious, anyone shooting an ILF Riser? Which one? How do you like it?
> Nick



Been shooting a 17" TradTech Titan since it's pre-production prototype phase over a decade ago. 









I've tried dozens of others in that time frame, both wood and metal, and I have yet to shoot one that I would trade my original Titan for. 

If I ever find one I like better, I'll surely buy it.

KPC


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## Nick728 (Oct 19, 2014)

GEREP said:


> Been shooting a 17" TradTech Titan since it's pre-production prototype phase over a decade ago.
> 
> View attachment 6409295
> 
> ...


Several trusted shooters have said how much the like & enjoy the Trad Tech Titan 2. I'm wondering if the Titan 3, a 19" riser, will shoot a well as the 17" Titan 2. One buddy, a very good archer, sold his Santori in favor of a Titan 2. 
Any notable difference between the Titan 2 & Titan 3?
Thanks
Nick


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## norton850 (Feb 4, 2010)

Nick728 said:


> Several trusted shooters have said how much the like & enjoy the Trad Tech Titan 2. I'm wondering if the Titan 3, a 19" riser, will shoot a well as the 17" Titan 2. One buddy, a very good archer, sold his Santori in favor of a Titan 2.
> Any notable difference between the Titan 2 & Titan 3?
> Thanks
> Nick


the tradtech riser is actually close in geometry and feel of the new JUNXiNG F261 riser that is offered in 17 , 19 and 21 , the complete bow with limbs and riser is around $235 plus shipping directly from the company , PPL who have tried their riser love them , the key is buy direct and save a lot of money.


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## reddogge (Jul 21, 2009)

I've been shooting the Titan III for close to 5 years now and with medium limbs it makes 62" of SWEEEET shooting bow for 3-D. I'm shooting the obsolete Trad Tech BF Extremes.


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## kentsabrina (Aug 23, 2017)

Excel 21" n 23" in blackout makes a cheap but solid crossover for a trad/hunting Ilf rig.

Grab one where it lasts....


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## ember (Jul 23, 2004)

Those super curves are awesome, I shot one last year. It did feel like it had let off type feel, probably because I am too used to some limb loading.

Continue that limb tip around the loop too much more and you have yourself a pulley.

ILF riser is what I would purchase if I were to start again. Some many choices on limbs and lengths, tuning adjustment, cut past center, too much to list.


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## Bill 2311 (Jun 24, 2005)

Wood risers are great..... if the grip is right.
Each wood riser seems to have a lititle different shape.
ILF metal allows you to swap grips.
One of the best feeling grips (for me) in ILF is the Satori.
But my go-to is the Covert Hunter that I has made in a high grip. Really not a big difference from the regular grip though. I doubt that the difference is even 1/4".
Fedora makes a grip with a pronounced thumb rest. Seems guys love it or hate it.


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## nvision (Feb 23, 2015)

I've tried many. Here are four Morrisons, a Satori, and Black Wolf. They all shoot well.


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## ztrede (Sep 24, 2015)

I have a Win& Win RCX 17 (Currently Black Wolf) that is an all carbon riser, really lightweight and great design. I also just recently purchased a 21" JC Optimus from user Breathn (John of Johns Customs) and it is an excellent quality machined aluminum riser that I would highly recomend. He shipped it with a machined removable shelf rest, as well as a stick on flipper rest, plastic flipper rest, and allen wrench set. You do have to order these directly through him through his facebook or through PM, and they are available in custom colors and patterns as well. 

The biggest concern I have enountered while selecting an ILF bow is determining the draw weight that I want, and finding the right riser/limb combination for my long draw length. But, with just a few risers and limbs, you can make many combinations of bows to suit whatever your needs are. I just purchased a set of Border Hex 6 limbs, and I will say they are some of the smoothest drawing limbs I have ever encountered. I have not encountered any stacking even at my 31" draw length, and they even almost feel as there is some sort of let-off at the end of the draw cycle due to the super recurve of the limb. The morrison max 5's are supposedly similar.


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## Don_Parsons (Feb 9, 2018)

Canadian Archery on Line has some pretty good deals up here, and this = big savings if the USA folks buy up here since your $ is + $0.36 cents to our dollar. 

I'm ordering a frugal Cartel riser and carbon SF limbs tomorrow. 
I only see the benefits of going to the ILF system since it opens the door to endless possibilities. 
A set of 32 & 38 lb'ers to start. 

Thanks for the info everyone. 
I'll make my own handle using hockey tape just like all the other bow handles I've made. 

Don


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## Nick728 (Oct 19, 2014)

Yesterday I shot my 25" SF Forged riser with Win & Win Winex medium limbs making a 68" bow. It is the smoothest combination I've tried so far. Fast and more accurate than my one piece 64" Bear and worlds apart from my take down Samick. I'm sure I could get by with a 19" or 21" riser but I'm thinking, WHY? More or less I got my answer, I've been trying to fix something that was never broken. The Olympic risers hold steadier . It could be because I'm use to Oly risers with Long limbs or it could be the longer bows are more in my wheel house comfort zone. In any case for now, the SF Forged with either medium or long limbs is my trad setup of choice. One last thing, I left the adjustable rest with a plunger on the riser in doing so it reduced my need to cant notably & the result were better than I would have thought it would be. I might change to a Nap rest once I finalize my arrow choice and spine. 
Thank you all for the feedback and suggestions, many of which I will try in my never ending need to experiment. As much as I love one piece wood bows a take down's versatility IMO is a far better choice for my needs.
Nick


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## Don_Parsons (Feb 9, 2018)

Just sent a email to Canada Archery online to see what they can set me up with on the ILF system. 

The time has come to step up the game plan of good times. 
Aluminum riser and 28 to 30 lb limbs. 

A fraction easier to draw over my PSE 35 lb'er. 

Ye Ha,,, bring on the good times 

Western Canada Don


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## Don_Parsons (Feb 9, 2018)

I catched with Joe C at Lancaster today and got everything sorted for a ILF frugal bow,,, I filled up my shopping cart, was ready to check out. 

Everything was going good, but my Canadian email shut me down. 
Noting major as I'll phone in my order in the morning. 

The plan is to keep it simple and practic from there. 
General learning curve as I put things together. 

Don


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## Don_Parsons (Feb 9, 2018)

All I can say is that Lancaster Archery rocks, a fast phone call and everything is sorted for this far reaching Canadian dude. LOL.

I bumped up the quality a bit on the riser since I plan to shoot higher Pound-age limbs at a later date,,, but for now I'm stepping back in draw weigth. 

My other bow has 35 lb draw weigth, the time has come to drop a few pounds and get my shooting forum back on track. 

I won't know how this plays out till I give it a try. I'm sure this will fast track the areas that need sorting. 

Don


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## slalomnorth (Dec 9, 2016)

I recently just picked up this morrison with the tradtech (made by dryad) longbow limbs. I bought it because I thought it would make a great travel bow. It's fairly quiet and smooth to shoot. I really like how you can get your limb alignment perfect, and adjust the weight. I will say it does kind of seem like a "alien spaceship" compared to my other one piece bows, and selfbows I make. I like all bows though, so whatever suites ya.


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## kentsabrina (Aug 23, 2017)

tradtech titan with a d loop n unique release ~ whatta genius idea

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnC4km2K8Sc

as per my reddot (soon be replaced by a dovetail apex single pin) n whisker biscuit set up on my titan iii, I need to get an eyebolt n sculpt myself a wooden handle.....or maybe I can use my leftover thermomorph for a easier job.

shooting a high #, 60#> ILF with compound sight n release...seems a lot of fun


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## ghoster808 (Jun 29, 2007)

Dang! I already get tab slap when I oooph a release. With that hook anywhere’s near my face I’d for sure be a Tony Montana look alike! Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Squirrel (Aug 6, 2008)

ghoster808 said:


> Dang! I already get tab slap when I oooph a release. With that hook anywhere’s near my face I’d for sure be a Tony Montana look alike! Lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah I'll pass on that hook lol.


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