# Sure loc set up???



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

The Sure Loc sight frame is one of the best in the industry. I have 4 of them and no issues.

Explain your problem a bit more.


----------



## WOA Archery (Aug 18, 2011)

I am just trying to get everything leveled up correctly. Its tough for me to explain but when I get 2nd and 3rd axis leveled it looks like the scope is not square with the bow? I must admit I was a little displeases with the hex tube supposed to go into the round hole on the scope housing. I mean like square peg round hole? I am new so forgive my ignorance


----------



## edgerat (Dec 14, 2011)

Are you leveling the 2nd axis by shooting it and finding YOUR level or, putting it against something square and leveling it to that? 3rd axis isn't always going to appear square, if you torque the bow alot it is going to be tweaked to cover that


----------



## WOA Archery (Aug 18, 2011)

I prefer to do my leveling with it on the bow. I was told that is one of the best ways to do it?


----------



## edgerat (Dec 14, 2011)

I level mine to a square door-frame and then do the 3rd axis with me behind the string. I would rather be "level" than "my level" if that makes any sense? No one way better than the other just different ways of skinning the same cat.


----------



## carlosii (Feb 25, 2007)

i have found the Hamseka leveling device pretty good as a tool for setting my sure-loc. maybe its just me.


----------



## JF from VA (Dec 5, 2002)

It sounds to me like you might have some mis-matched parts. The hex-shaped armored scope rod sleeve should fit in a hex-shaped hole on the 3rd axis leveling block. The old leveling blocks had a round hole. This is what the newer ones look like: 

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/sure-locr-3rd-axis-leveling-block.html


----------



## WOA Archery (Aug 18, 2011)

JF from VA said:


> It sounds to me like you might have some mis-matched parts. The hex-shaped armored scope rod sleeve should fit in a hex-shaped hole on the 3rd axis leveling block. The old leveling blocks had a round hole. This is what the newer ones look like:
> 
> http://www.lancasterarchery.com/sure-locr-3rd-axis-leveling-block.html


Yea that is what mine looks like, however the hole on the side of the scope housing is round. The guy with sureloc said that hex tube was supposed to go in the round hole on the scope housing???


----------



## JF from VA (Dec 5, 2002)

Not quite sure what you mean by the round hole in the scope housing. Most scope housings have a 10-32 stainless rod that is used to attach the housing to the sight block. On a Sure Loc, the hex tube is provided to protect the 10-32 rod from breakage. On high peformance bows, scope rod breakage can sometimes be a problem. The hex tube should have 10-32 threads and should screw onto the scope rod like a big nut. Once you get it tightened down, the hex rod attaches to the 3rd Axis block. You may need a to add a couple washers to align the scope housing vertically.


----------



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

You have something wrong. A scope housing has a threaded hole for the scope rod. The scope rod threads through the hex tube.
Working with my old computer or I'd show pics of how all goes together.


----------



## WOA Archery (Aug 18, 2011)

JF from VA said:


> Not quite sure what you mean by the round hole in the scope housing. Most scope housings have a 10-32 stainless rod that is used to attach the housing to the sight block. On a Sure Loc, the hex tube is provided to protect the 10-32 rod from breakage. On high peformance bows, scope rod breakage can sometimes be a problem. The hex tube should have 10-32 threads and should screw onto the scope rod like a big nut. Once you get it tightened down, the hex rod attaches to the 3rd Axis block. You may need a to add a couple washers to align the scope housing vertically.


I understand everything you are saying. however I dont think I am doing a good job of getting my point across. Yes there is a threaded whole in the side of the scope body but it is resessed in a round whole on the side of the scope that is almost the same size as the hex tube. The sureloc guy said to slide the rod throught the hex tube and thread it into the side of the scope then to put a nut on the opposite side of the hex tube and tighten to pull the scope housing up onto the hex tube. so that is wher I get the saying round hole and hex tube. I have mine pulled on it a little but it is not secure as I like it and it is not on there level either. sorry this is just hard to explain with typing but I appreciate your help


----------



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Not sure what scope you have that would have recess opening. Perhaps a piece missing.

Here is one. Scope housing, brass washer, nut, thin bevel washer (or flat side of nut), hex rod holder. On the exposed scope rod on the opposite side is another nut to draw rod and tighten.

I actually have five 3rd axis blocks set up.

Of note; One Sure Loc came with a taper lock nut. The hex rod opposite of the scope is deeper chamfered, counter sunk if you will. 
The brass nut has a split nipple that clamps down on the rod when tighten - chamfer squeezing the nipple down on the rod.


----------



## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

I don't think you have your mind wrapped around what it means to setup a slider sight, to me you would benefit from buying a hamskea tool and secondly there are videos of gillingham setting up a sight and he makes it really easy to follow and do the job correctly and in a matter of minutes.


Secondly many people totally screw up and attach their scope incorrectly to the surelock front end, I see it all the time on 3d courses. The surelock sight is awesome and will do you good in the long run but it is a little lacking on user friendly. Take your time and make sure you aren't screwing up things and ruining a beautiful finish.


----------



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

What's lacking of user friendly? Up and down? On the Challenger you back off the lock knob a couple of turns, push in and move scope vertically, adjust for grid and clicks and lock down. Shooting competition I've never had to move vertically all that much to use this. From 20 yards to 30 yards is like 3 grid marks. Of the Supreme you push in the brass button and move for the same, no lock down.

I've had the Axcel, CBE and Cooper Johns and sold them due to liking the Sure Locs. I have 3 Challengers (2 400s and 1 550) and 1 Supreme (400). Really like the Challengers over the Supreme.


----------



## WOA Archery (Aug 18, 2011)

Padgett said:


> I don't think you have your mind wrapped around what it means to setup a slider sight, to me you would benefit from buying a hamskea tool and secondly there are videos of gillingham setting up a sight and he makes it really easy to follow and do the job correctly and in a matter of minutes.
> 
> 
> Secondly many people totally screw up and attach their scope incorrectly to the surelock front end, I see it all the time on 3d courses. The surelock sight is awesome and will do you good in the long run but it is a little lacking on user friendly. Take your time and make sure you aren't screwing up things and ruining a beautiful finish.


That is why I created this post because I dont have a clue what I am doing, but thanks for telling me anyway lol.


----------



## JF from VA (Dec 5, 2002)

Can you post a picture of your scope housing showing the problem area? Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words.

Yes, the Hamskea device is a time saver and I happen to own one and believe they are a good tool to have. However, I got along for a lot of years without one and got the job done. FYI, here is a link to a good article by Larry Wise on leveling and setting up a movable sight:

http://arrowtrademagazine.com/?page=articles Click on the link "January 2007 - Truing Sights for Accuracy"


----------



## WOA Archery (Aug 18, 2011)

JF from VA said:


> Can you post a picture of your scope housing showing the problem area? Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words.
> 
> Yes, the Hamskea device is a time saver and I happen to own one and believe they are a good tool to have. However, I got along for a lot of years without one and got the job done. FYI, here is a link to a good article by Larry Wise on leveling and setting up a movable sight:
> 
> http://arrowtrademagazine.com/?page=articles Click on the link "January 2007 - Truing Sights for Accuracy"


Thanks for the article. I think that will help some. I am going to work on it some this afternoon and see what I can figure out. I have figured out one thing the guy with sureloc must be new because he knows less than I do. Told me to do something that almost broke my brand new supreme 550.


----------



## JF from VA (Dec 5, 2002)

For some additional help, go to YouTube and search on "leveling a bow sight". There are a bunch of how-to videos on doing this. If you need additional help, feel free to PM me.


----------



## WOA Archery (Aug 18, 2011)

Ok I got half of my issues fixed. I have the scope mounted to the hex tube perfectly. It is not how I was told by the sureloc guy but it looks just like the picture above. The only thing I am not sure about is if the scope is level just right on all of the axis. I guess we will see when I try to sight it in. The scope face does not look square to the arrow if that makes since but I am gonna try it and see. Thanks for the help and patience with a beginner.


----------



## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

By your last reply...? Do you have a bow vice? 
Bow level by string level, straight up and down, bubble of scope should be in the middle.
Tilting the bow back or forward the bubble should be in the middle - 3rd axis adjustment - this make your scope look square to the arrow - provide the bow is proper set up (center shot).


----------



## WOA Archery (Aug 18, 2011)

SonnyThomas said:


> By your last reply...? Do you have a bow vice?
> Bow level by string level, straight up and down, bubble of scope should be in the middle.
> Tilting the bow back or forward the bubble should be in the middle - 3rd axis adjustment - this make your scope look square to the arrow - provide the bow is proper set up (center shot).


That is exactly the way I did it, however the scope does not look square to the arrow. I am getting a good bullet hole when I paper tune so I guess it is set up good? I am going to shoot test it some this weekend and see what it does.


----------



## JF from VA (Dec 5, 2002)

It sounds like you are on the right track. There are really three steps in leveling a scope:

1. Plumb the vertical (sight) bar. You can use a torpedo level to do this.
2. Plumb the sight block to make sure it is level as you move it up and down the sight bar. You will use the level built into the scope housing to do this.
3. Check the 3rd axis adjustment. The 3rd axis adjustment is like a gate, it adjusts the angle of the scope to the line of sight. Where this mis-alignment shows up is when you tilt you bow off level, uphill or downhill. 

If you don't have a tool like the Hamskea or some other brand to assist with 3rd axis adjustment, you can do it a couple ways:

1. Fix the bow or sight level so the bubble is in the middle. Tilt the bow or sight down or up about 30 degrees and see if the bubble moves. If it does, then you need to make an adjustment.
2. Shoot the settings in by shooting uphill or downhill and noting where the arrow impacts are compared to level ground. Then adjust 3rd axis accordingly. This is really the acid test of checking 3rd axis alignment whether you use a tool or not.


----------

