# X10 Tuning Questions



## bobnikon (Jun 10, 2012)

So, your 1 inch difference in length, roughly equates to a spine size. So, it is reasonable if your 650s were behaving weak at 29" your 600s could at 30". 

A few options, 
Have you checked for contact, could be a false weak?

If they are indeed acting weak,
Lower your brace height, 
Go to heavier vanes
Go to a string with more strands
Go with lighter points (a few on here have documented that despite lowering weight by cutting points, the shorter shank has actually resulted in a weaker reading) so lighter points with longer shanks may help here?
Cut another 1/4" off the arrow shaft at a time, but you don't have much room to spare.
You are already using pin nocks, so you can't add much more weight there.
Maybe arrow wraps?

With arrows that expensive, I never cut them all at once. I set up a couple fletched and a bare shaft and test with a small number until I am sure they work.


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## theminoritydude (Feb 11, 2013)

"A second question concerns center shot with X10's. I've seen posts recommending a straight-on center shot instead of having the shaft slightly left because of the barrelled shaft, the thinking being that the thicker barrel in the middle will take care of getting the arrow left a bit. "

Except that at full draw, your barrelled middle does not matter. On the contrary, IF at brace, your shaft is fatter at the plunger, you actually need a slightly more pronounced displacement to the left, to compensate at full draw.

If you follow......


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## crushedeiffel (May 24, 2015)

Hello
Used to shoot X10, I did not notice any special tuning method between them and ACE or nano SST tuning.
I get to the point of having fletched and unflecteched level (for nocking point ) close right or left at 30M (a little weak (5cm is acceptable for me)) then walk back tuning and good enough. After that you can micro tune...
It seems that your arrows are still too weak.
How far left were the unflectched 520 ?

It's not unseen to have a difference between good 520 ACE and too weak 500 X10 (I did) just not the same shaft. 
You could increase the brace height to slow down the bow a little might get them together.
I am thinking of using nano pro extreme instead of my current nano sst, asked the shop "i shoot 550 sst does that means I should go 550 pro extreme as stated in carbon express sizing table ?
Answer : "will most likely work but not certain"
You are the not certain example. 
All this assuming that you bow riser limbs are not warped, tiller is not way off, arrow does not touch the riser where it should not (everywhere but arrow rest and cushion plunger check with talcum powder or flour)...


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## wisemaj (Feb 27, 2007)

"So, your 1 inch difference in length, roughly equates to a spine size."

Well, OK, yeah, that could be part of the problem, though I'm a little confused here. After reading that, I checked the Easton arrow chart and indeed, there is a spine change every 1 inch of arrow length, which would say that 1" of arrow length is worth about .050 of spine. However, OnTarget2 SWA says, if you play around with changing just arrow length with a given configuration, that going from 29" to 30" is worth only about .020 of spine, meaning that you'd have to increase the arrow by about 2 1/2" to make up for a change from 650 to 600. That's the info that I used to select the 600's. How could OnTarget2 be that far off from what the arrow selection table says, or did I do something wrong???

Thanks for all of your suggestions. Given how large an effect arrow length seems to play, I'm thinking my best bet is to cut the shafts ... I could drop as much as 1/2" and still not have the end of the shaft reaching the arrow rest.


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## wisemaj (Feb 27, 2007)

theminoritydude: "Except that at full draw, your barrelled middle does not matter. On the contrary, IF at brace, your shaft is fatter at the plunger, you actually need a slightly more pronounced displacement to the left, to compensate at full draw."

Yeah, I see what you're saying there. The way I was thinking about it is that if the barrel of the shaft presses on the plunger as the arrow accelerates, then the arrow might be further left than a straight arrow would be, and thus would compensate for not setting center shot to the left.

Oh well, too many variables for me to figure out. Guess I'll just go with the standard recommendations.

Thanks for your reply.


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## wisemaj (Feb 27, 2007)

crushedeiffel said:


> Hello
> Used to shoot X10, I did not notice any special tuning method between them and ACE or nano SST tuning.
> I get to the point of having fletched and unflecteched level (for nocking point ) close right or left at 30M (a little weak (5cm is acceptable for me)) then walk back tuning and good enough. After that you can micro tune...
> It seems that your arrows are still too weak.
> ...


The ACE 520's were well tuned, but that's when I was drawing 42 pounds. As I started dropping down to around 39 pounds, the stiffness started showing up.

I will try brace height, probably won't do much, but anything might help here. The limbs are good and tiller is about 1/8" positive. Haven't checked for clearance issues, but my very fragile spinwings aren't showing any signs of damage ... probably not enough evidence to rule out interference though, so I'll check that too.

Thanks!


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## ABourdage (Feb 19, 2015)

Regarding centershot, my X10s have always tuned with a more traditional configuration, with the arrow point outside the string. In fact, this relationship is more pronounced with x10s than it was for ACEs that I had before. I do find that I need about one spine stiffer than the Easton charts recommend. Currently, I shoot an X10 350 at 33 inches of carbon, and with a draw weight of 49#. Any higher and it would be weak


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## bobnikon (Jun 10, 2012)

Oops



bobnikon said:


> So, your 1 inch difference in length, roughly equates to a spine size. So, it is reasonable if your 650s were behaving weak at 29" your 600s could at 30".
> 
> A few options,
> Have you checked for contact, could be a false weak?
> ...


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## midwayarcherywi (Sep 24, 2006)

Jeff, If you want to preserve a bit of room, consider cutting from the back of the shaft. It will stiffen the arrow more than if you cut from the front. Be judicious, as this is not a linear progression. 

And bobnikon, you had it correct the first time. Decrease BH to dynamically stiffen spine.


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## bobnikon (Jun 10, 2012)

midwayarcherywi said:


> Jeff, If you want to preserve a bit of room, consider cutting from the back of the shaft. It will stiffen the arrow more than if you cut from the front. Be judicious, as this is not a linear progression.
> 
> And bobnikon, you had it correct the first time. Decrease BH to dynamically stiffen spine.


Yeah, coffee deficit I suppose.


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## crushedeiffel (May 24, 2015)

midwayarcherywi said:


> Jeff, If you want to preserve a bit of room, consider cutting from the back of the shaft. It will stiffen the arrow more than if you cut from the front. Be judicious, as this is not a linear progression.


Correct but as the rear is not designed for that (per Easton) the diameter will change faster, if you cut a lot (not so sure how much is to much 3 to 5 cm ?) you will have knock fitting problem, and that is not good for precision.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

w - 

You bought the wrong arrows. 

The X10s are thinner than the ACEs and therefore require a stiffer corresponding spine. 
If the 520's were acting stiff, a 550 x10 or maybe a 600 would have been more appropriate. 

BTW - if an arrows are acting weak, you lower the brace height, but you're already as low as practical with your stated specs. 

Options:
If you can't use any/all of the standard methods to adequately stiffen the arrow's dynamic spine (which may mean "slightly stiff"), sell them and get the right size.

It's the old saying "experience is a tough teacher, since you take the test before you learn the lesson". 

Viper1 out.


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## airwolfipsc (Apr 2, 2008)

Brass nock give such false tune for me everytime ! not to mention you put 2 on? Put back tieon novking point and shooti it again im gonna bet itwill bring the bearshaft 5in back in the group


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## airwolfipsc (Apr 2, 2008)

Fyi I shoot nano pro extreme. .my arrows are 30.25in long 34.14 lbs/oz. on fingers
Long 34 quattro with 25in hoyt prodigy. They are perfect arrows and tunes. Well. How well? I shoot 3 bareshaft out to 70m and its in the group!...but question is is your form tunable or is thrre a torque on your grip when you execute the shot


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## chrstphr (Nov 23, 2005)

Nano pro extreme is a parallel shaft. The X10 he is ahooting is a barrel shaft. They two will nit be the same tune as barrel ahaft is weaker as stated already in the thread. 

And what tunes for you at a specific arrow length and poundage does not mean it will tune for someone else. There are too many variables for that to be the same. 


Chris


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