# Cheap "Ghost Blind" Idea. Would like input please.



## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

So I've been thinking off and on about ways to make cheap mirror blind. There are VERY FEW places online where you can purchase small quantities of plexiglass or mirrored plexi-glass or corrugated plastic sheets. The places that do sell small quantities are way too expensive. So that's out.

I was thinking about using cheap full length mirrors for the mirrored plexiglass. I found these at Home Depot for $5.98 a piece. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-...er+bay+suave+49x13+framed+door+mirror+in+whit 

If I get 6 of them, and cut them to 36.75", I could use the 6 scrap pieces to make 2 more panels at 36.75". That would give me 4 panels, 26" wide and 36.75" tall. Then I would cut them down to 24" so I could use a 4'x8' backing sheet and make 4 panels out of it. I just need something to glue the mirrors to. That's my question for you all. What's something cheap that I could use as a structural backing that's not too heavy and would stand up to the elements?

I was thinking maybe 1/8" plywood that I then paint and cover with a matte poly finish to make it water proof. Any thoughts?


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

No input?


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## ParkerBow (Dec 4, 2006)

Think it might be very heavy. I would look into reflective Mylar


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## Bearfinatic (Nov 1, 2010)

The only thing I can add is Im mid build on one myself out of 1/4" plexi and I think you are on the right track with trying to reduce the weight. I had the plexi that had some scratches from a job so cost was zero on it for me. However with the 4 pieces after cuts going with ICEMAN2383's plans on youtube (see below) its HEAVY. All cut out and stacked together its 37lbs, I weighed it on a bathroom scale and mine is even cut down two inches in height from 48 to 46". I thought about some 1/4" luan instead and may still try it before I complete this one. I dont plan on leaving it in the woods anyways if its light enough to pack out easily so the water proof part doesnt concern me as much. 


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjUJyXE3jhY


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## shinobi3 (Jun 20, 2009)

in for this


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

Bearfinatic said:


> The only thing I can add is Im mid build on one myself out of 1/4" plexi and I think you are on the right track with trying to reduce the weight. I had the plexi that had some scratches from a job so cost was zero on it for me. However with the 4 pieces after cuts going with ICEMAN2383's plans on youtube (see below) its HEAVY. All cut out and stacked together its 37lbs, I weighed it on a bathroom scale and mine is even cut down two inches in height from 48 to 46". I thought about some 1/4" luan instead and may still try it before I complete this one. I dont plan on leaving it in the woods anyways if its light enough to pack out easily so the water proof part doesnt concern me as much.
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjUJyXE3jhY


Yeah the weight is a concern. That's why I'm going for thin, cheap plexi with a mirrored finish and then put it on something that will give the support. I'd like corrugated plastic but it's too expensive for anything that will hold up. A 1/4" sheet of 4x8 plywood weighs about 22-25lbs. So a 1/8" 4x8' sheet would weigh about 11-13lbs. Cut the plywood down to 36.75" tall instead of 48" and that cuts off about 1/4 of the weight so figure the plywood would account for 9lbs. That's before cutting the angles and shooting slots and the holes for a handle. So take off another 1.5lbs. So now we're down to 7.5lbs for the plywood. If the mirrors are 5lbs, that makes 13.5lbs and hinges and other random hardware would add about 1.5lbs so now we're at 15lbs. I don't think that's too bad of a weight for the blind. I just need to get to Home Depot and check these mirrors out and see what they look like. I'm hoping this is going to work well.


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## Twitko (Nov 29, 2012)

Huntinsker - as I'm going to DIY my own mirror blind, too, I've already done some research in shops near me ... yes, plexi was one option, but it's very heavy ...OK, not very, but quite. But then I found Lexan - and it could be perfect solution .... it's very, very light. There are air chambers between front and back layer. It seems to be a perfect material and as far as I was able to recognize, "Ghost company" use the same one.

As I live in Europe, I'm not sure if the "Lexan" name is the same in US . Maybe there is a different one, but never mind ... just check the picture and I believe you will be able to find this material, too .. and it's not expensive


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## slamnationalley (Jul 5, 2007)

1/4" coroplast was $18. I got black a d ordered some mirror film off ebay. I found out (the hard way) that 4 panels wasn't enough so I added 2 more panels to make 6 - 48" x24" panels. I got $80 bucks in mine and it weighs about 18 pounds. I never saw any advantage to using plexiglass.


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

I've looked into twin wall polycarbonate like that and the cheapest I've found was $41 per 4'x8' piece. That's before they wanted $80 for shipping. I did find a website that sells 2'x4' pieces of 6mm twin wall polycarbonate for $16 a piece. They only added $10.99 for shipping. Here's the link incase anyone is interested. http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/...polycarbonate/greenhouse-polycarbonate-sheets


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

slamnationalley said:


> 1/4" coroplast was $18. I got black a d ordered some mirror film off ebay. I found out (the hard way) that 4 panels wasn't enough so I added 2 more panels to make 6 - 48" x24" panels. I got $80 bucks in mine and it weighs about 18 pounds. I never saw any advantage to using plexiglass.


Where did you order small quantities of coroplast? Everywhere I looked wanted very large minimum quantities.


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## silent_assault (Jun 28, 2011)

I tried making one wasted about 60 bucks and said screw it and bought the ghost blind live and learn I guess


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## ironman_gq (May 22, 2012)

4x4 corrugated plastic around me is $6 a sheet, green one side camo on the other. The plant can sell you 4x4 or 4x8 for $3-8 in just about any color you want.

Talk to a sign shop, they use corrugated plastic for yard signs.

http://corrugatedplastics.net/4mmCorrugatedPlasticSheets.html#24x24 $8.99/ea 4X4


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## Tu-co (Apr 13, 2012)

slamnationalley said:


> 1/4" coroplast was $18. I got black a d ordered some mirror film off ebay. I found out (the hard way) that 4 panels wasn't enough so I added 2 more panels to make 6 - 48" x24" panels. I got $80 bucks in mine and it weighs about 18 pounds. I never saw any advantage to using plexiglass.


Got pics?


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

ironman_gq said:


> 4x4 corrugated plastic around me is $6 a sheet, green one side camo on the other. The plant can sell you 4x4 or 4x8 for $3-8 in just about any color you want.
> 
> Talk to a sign shop, they use corrugated plastic for yard signs.
> 
> http://corrugatedplastics.net/4mmCorrugatedPlasticSheets.html#24x24 $8.99/ea 4X4


That would be an awesome resource if they didn't then want $80 for shipping.


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

You can't use coroplast or any type of plastic that has lines or ridges in it if you are using the window film stuff.

Trust me I tried it! The little lines totally mess up the reflective surface so bad it doesn't produce an image!

I was going to try that 1/8 melamine 4 by 8 sheet at menards but never got around to it.


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## BluMeanie (May 5, 2014)

redruff said:


> You can't use coroplast or any type of plastic that has lines or ridges in it if you are using the window film stuff.
> 
> Trust me I tried it! The little lines totally mess up the reflective surface so bad it doesn't produce an image!
> 
> I was going to try that 1/8 melamine 4 by 8 sheet at menards but never got around to it.


Would using a 10 or 12 mil vinyl covering the coroplast before applying window film help to "smooth over" the corrugations, do you think? Perhaps 2 or 3 layers of contact-paper?


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## hooiserarcher (Feb 20, 2011)

I am all about diy and saving money as I have did several diy things and posted my work here, BUT unless there is a product or process I am unaware of it is hard to justify the time and cost difference on the original ghost blind. Well worth the money in my opinion.


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

BluMeanie said:


> Would using a 10 or 12 mil vinyl covering the coroplast before applying window film help to "smooth over" the corrugations, do you think? Perhaps 2 or 3 layers of contact-paper?


No idea? But that sure sounds like a pia!

I think they make smooth coroplast for/campaign signs and stuff, just never tracked it down!
Go "gather" a couple yard signs! Win/win deal!


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## CarbonTerry (Jan 8, 2003)

I have my mirror vinyl and am waiting for my coroplast. I bought 2 sheets of 6mm. I had them cut one sheet into 4 pieces along the flutes and the other sheet across the flutes. I'll glue the sheets together
and they should be very rigid. I have some 16th inch "chip board" that is very smooth and will glue that to the face of the coroplast sheets. I'll do pics before assembly. I also am doing another blind using very stiff smooth cardboard and using 1X2's to additionally stiffen. I will do pics on that also.
The vinyl came in 4X50' foot rolls. I will have to apply the adhesive myself. You can make a lot of blinds with 50 feet.


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## CarbonTerry (Jan 8, 2003)

Slamnation,
Do you have a link for coroplast?


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## BluMeanie (May 5, 2014)

redruff said:


> No idea? But that sure sounds like a pia!
> 
> I think they make smooth coroplast for/campaign signs and stuff, just never tracked it down!
> Go "gather" a couple yard signs! Win/win deal!


The only thing I do not like about the "Ghost Blind" that I have handled is, the thing is only something like 4 panels wide, and just barely over knee-high (without "extra cost" extensions). I am not a big man, but I do not see this tiny thing disguising me from anything.


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## BluMeanie (May 5, 2014)

redruff said:


> No idea? But that sure sounds like a pia!
> 
> I think they make smooth coroplast for/campaign signs and stuff, just never tracked it down!
> Go "gather" a couple yard signs! Win/win deal!


Just make certain they are done using the campaign signs first! Big Trouble otherwise!


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

BluMeanie said:


> The only thing I do not like about the "Ghost Blind" that I have handled is, the thing is only something like 4 panels wide, and just barely over knee-high (without "extra cost" extensions). I am not a big man, but I do not see this tiny thing disguising me from anything.


There are 2 versions of the Ghost blind. One is 24" tall and the other is 48" tall. I think somewhere in the middle is best. It'll cut down a little on weight and it makes it easier to shot over. I suppose if you were sitting on your butt using a shotgun or rifle, the 24" one may work but not so much for a bow hunter.


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## Rex D (Mar 23, 2013)

What an awesome sounding product that has LOTS of real world positive reviews. I looked at this thread and thought "I am doing this.. sooner rather than later!". I am a big DIYer. I started calculating the cost to build this (per the youtube video).

Called home depot. 4'X8' Plexiglass sheet $98 + tax
Looked online for the Reflective Window tint about $50

So with everything (paint, hinges, bolts, nuts etc) we're looking at about $160 - $165

Well, I looked on Amazon and you can buy the Ghost blind with free shipping for $198! I just don't see taking the chance of screwing it up or it not turning out as good plus the time it takes to build it just to save $30-35 ..

http://www.amazon.com/GhostBlind-GB...TF8&qid=1410457664&sr=8-1&keywords=ghostblind


I think if you have access to cheap/free plexi (or similar material) it's definitly worth it.. but for the average joe off of the street I just don't see how the DIY version is a cost saving alternative.


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

Rex D said:


> What an awesome sounding product that has LOTS of real world positive reviews. I looked at this thread and thought "I am doing this.. sooner rather than later!". I am a big DIYer. I started calculating the cost to build this (per the youtube video).
> 
> Called home depot. 4'X8' Plexiglass sheet $98 + tax
> Looked online for the Reflective Window tint about $50
> ...


100% agree with you about the plexiglass. That's why I've been looking at other ways to make it without using plexi glass. I've figured out about an $80 version but I'm not sure on the weight of it yet. I'm sure it will be lighter than straight plexiglass but I haven't decide entirely of what I'm going to use as the backing. 

I went to home depot and found the mirrors. Several of them that they had on the shelf were dinged up pretty good on the frames with some corners broken so I think I can get a little more of a discount on those. I was walking around looking at the different materials for a backing and nothing really sparked my attention as the best idea. I was thinking about this stuff http://www.menards.com/main/p-1931476.htm as the backing material. It says it's 11lbs for shipping weight. So cut off 1/4 of that for my length and then cut off another pound or two for the angles and shooting slots and then I thought about using a hole saw to take holes out of it to make it even a little lighter. Figure I'd get it down to 5-6lbs or so.


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## hooiserarcher (Feb 20, 2011)

That sucker will be heavy and one stumble in the woods and its broke. Not trying to dim your diy spirit just something to think about. Ghost blind is light, won't shatter or crack and easy to pack. I strap mine to my pack and literally forget its there.


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## Rex D (Mar 23, 2013)

Well this has my brain spinning a bit.. 

I've never worked with Mylar.. But I wonder about using it and a frame.. How tough is mylar?


Would a person be able to make a PVC frame for each panel out of 1" pipe + fittings and use a sheet of mylar to cover each panel?

Something like this? This would seem very cheap to make and once you had the pvc frame built you could replace the mylar easily and cheaply. Don't know about weight though...


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## Rex D (Mar 23, 2013)

I just can't let this go.. lol


$12 7/32 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Moisture-Resistant Plywood Underlayment http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...layment-431178/203183010?N=5yc1vZbqm7Z1z0z6i6 

$10 Can of all purpose spray adhesive http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Super-77-16-75-fl-oz-Multipurpose-Spray-Adhesive-77-24/100067550 

$24 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Viagrow-25-ft-Mylar-2-mil-Reflective-Film-VMY130/202985200 
OR $22 from amazon shipped http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=071W5A3SMBSSF54ZMG9Y 

Looks to me less than $50 start to finish and should be pretty light... Thoughts?


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

Rex D said:


> Well this has my brain spinning a bit..
> 
> I've never worked with Mylar.. But I wonder about using it and a frame.. How tough is mylar?
> 
> ...


Thought about using a frame too except using the mirrors that I've found. Mylar is the same material that those "Get Well Soon" balloons are made out of. It would be shredded if you were to use it in a hunting situation.


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## Rex D (Mar 23, 2013)

Huntinsker said:


> Thought about using a frame too except using the mirrors that I've found. Mylar is the same material that those "Get Well Soon" balloons are made out of. It would be shredded if you were to use it in a hunting situation.


I see...

What about if it was spray glued to that underlayment? if it's glued to a hard surface I don't see where it would be any different than the reflective window film.. And If it did get scratched up repairs would be super easy as you've already got enough mylar and spray glue on hand to build three or four of these with that one $20 roll..

I think I'm going to try to make one out of the underlayment and mylar and see what happens.


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## BlameTheTwang (Jul 31, 2012)

I looked into this before just buying the ghost blind because I found a good deal on a used one. But my plan was to pick up some coroplast sheet (try your local sign shop) and apply the flexible mirror to it (using the thicker material, 5mil.).

http://www.mirrorsheeting.com/

Check out Youtube "DIY Mirror Blind


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

Rex D said:


> I see...
> 
> What about if it was spray glued to that underlayment? if it's glued to a hard surface I don't see where it would be any different than the reflective window film.. And If it did get scratched up repairs would be super easy as you've already got enough mylar and spray glue on hand to build three or four of these with that one $20 roll..
> 
> I think I'm going to try to make one out of the underlayment and mylar and see what happens.


It may work that way but using the reflective window film, you can put the film on the inside of the sandwich if you will. That way it would actually be like a mirror where the "glass" is between the outside world and the film. I think I've decided on the mirrors and the 1/8" thick Lauan for mine. We'll see how it goes. It'll be a fun little project either way.


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## CarbonTerry (Jan 8, 2003)

OK, I picked up my coroplast today. 8 pieces 2X4 ft. After getting a feel of the material I think that I will use a couple of wood "stiffeners" instead of 2 layers of coroplast.
Here's a pix of the extra stiff cardboard for want of a proper name with the wood stiffeners glued to the back. The holes are my attempt of lightening the whole project. It would have been a lot easier drilling if I had done so before glueing. Also a shot of the coroplast.


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## Jomas (Sep 20, 2008)

Has anyone made any progress on this? 
I am waiting on a quote for some 3mm mirrored plexiglass, wich is used as mirrors on boats.
After buying some mylar sheeting on ebay I found it doesn't reflect very well.

My plan is to build 3 tall units like the "stalk pod" that I can use to walk with as single units, or join together to make a hide as well.


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

Well I was walking through Walmart going to buy some ink for my printer and I found a bin of mirrors the same size as the Home Depot mirrors but they were only $4.47 a piece so that'll save a little over $6.


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## Capt'n D (May 15, 2007)

I saw those as well & was going to post it on here...LOL


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## Duncanwelding (Jul 19, 2014)

I bought 10mm coroplast, I think it will be great! It is stiff enough not wave in the wind and light enough to pack in. I'll post pics when I get home. I haven't decided what to use for a reflective surface yet...


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## whitetail 1 (Feb 11, 2012)

For the cost of time and materials you should just buy the ghost blind it's less than 200 dollars. My neighbor owns the company and asked when i was gonna purchase one and my reply was that for about the same price actually a few dollars cheaper i can stand up and stretch in mine and stay dry!!!


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

whitetail 1 said:


> For the cost of time and materials you should just buy the ghost blind it's less than 200 dollars. My neighbor owns the company and asked when i was gonna purchase one and my reply was that for about the same price actually a few dollars cheaper i can stand up and stretch in mine and stay dry!!!


But that wouldn't be any fun. Besides, I'm sure my idea will work and it'll be way less expensive than the Ghost Blind. 6 mirrors at $4.47 each, 1 piece of 4x8' 1/8" Lauan plywood for $12.99, 4 sets of hinges for $1.97 a piece, some adhesive for $5 and some spray paint that I already have. So figure $60-70 and I get to make it to my specs and I get to have fun doing a quick little project.


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## My2Sons (Jan 5, 2007)

Has anyone tried Foamcore (gatorboard)? I have access to quite a bit of 40x60" pieces.


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## cgoehl125 (Feb 12, 2010)

My2Sons said:


> Has anyone tried Foamcore (gatorboard)? I have access to quite a bit of 40x60" pieces.


I'm not sure what that is but I've made mine out of corrugated plastic that's like cardboard. It worked quite nice but I haven't even finished yet. I did it last year and haven't got around to putting the reflective on yet. What do you plan on using for that. I already got some mirrored window tint but I'm not sure how it'll work. The only thing I'm worried about is that they are so light I might have to stake them so they don't blow over.


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## ruffme (Aug 4, 2005)

Guys using coroplast....let me know how it goes! It didn't work for me with the window film! It ripples with the grooves on the surface and disrupts the reflection!


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## Duncanwelding (Jul 19, 2014)

redruff said:


> Guys using coroplast....let me know how it goes! It didn't work for me with the window film! It ripples with the grooves on the surface and disrupts the reflection!


I was worried about that, I got in touch with a sign shop a few days ago. They are checking on a thicker vinyl reflective material for me....


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## cjjeepman (Oct 28, 2011)

Look up RJ sign in St Louis ,they have the thick stuff ,and the also have chrome vinyl ,with adhesive .pretty cheap too ,they have the machine to cut it for you too .im sure if you wanted they could apply the vinyl too .


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## oldschoolcj5 (Jun 8, 2009)

did you take a look at this one?
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1289234


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## Tu-co (Apr 13, 2012)

:bump:

I'd like to see the progress on some of the projects that folks had in the works.


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## CarbonTerry (Jan 8, 2003)

I think that Gator Board 1/2 inch (or 3/16) would be perfect. The surface is absolutely smooth and rigid....the overall weight would be very light.
I use to use GB when I had my photo studio for lots of projects..


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

oldschoolcj5 said:


> did you take a look at this one?
> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1289234


Yes but the cost of a sheet of plexiglass that size is way too expensive to even bother with a DIY build. Unless you can get it for free or close to, you won't really be saving money.


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## IrregularPulse (Sep 22, 2012)

Any one ever actually build one of these things for a respectable cost savings that looks anywhere near as good as the commercial one? All the DIY ones I've seen fail in comparison, especially for the amount of money saved if not getting materials for free.


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

IrregularPulse said:


> Any one ever actually build one of these things for a respectable cost savings that looks anywhere near as good as the commercial one? All the DIY ones I've seen fail in comparison, especially for the amount of money saved if not getting materials for free.


Hopefully I'll be able to show you one in a week or two.


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## IrregularPulse (Sep 22, 2012)

Huntinsker said:


> Hopefully I'll be able to show you one in a week or two.


Thatd be awesome. I love the GB idea.


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## Edge (Oct 4, 2014)

Looks like $199 @ Cabelas in Canada


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## CarbonTerry (Jan 8, 2003)

I'll start another in a coupla' days. I will be using 1/8th masonite. At Lowes right now it's $8 a sheet. I will have to put "stiffners" on the back side (1"x2"x4') glued on the back side. The masonite is extremely smooth and should be perfect for glueing.
Masonite is somewhat heavy but I wouldnt think any heavier than plexi.

I've thought about using formica glued to the front of coroplast also. That should be quite a bit lighter than the masonite.

I've given some thought about using the "window" foil compared to using silver mylar. The blinds using the window appear to be somewhat dark. Seeing as how the window stuff is partially transparent you are actually seeing some of the medium that it is glued to. Silver mylar is opaque and I believe it will reflect more light than the window stuff.


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

Well I finally had some time today to take a closer look at those mirrors that I found at Homedepot. Turns out that they aren't plexiglass but real glass. I assumed they were plexi because of how much they flexed without breaking. Another bad thing is that they are nearly 5lbs a piece. That's just the glass, no frame attached. Not sure where to go from here but that idea is out.


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## GrayTech (Jan 29, 2013)

I am going to try to glue or tape the Mylar onto the plastic hollow core sign material only around the edges so it stays tight and flat. Will use a thick tape on the edges of the board and tape the Mylar on the inside. Been thinking of trying a blind enclosed on all sides out of this as weight is not an issue. Maybe a hexagonal or octagonal shape. If I make it tall enough I could even try some type of roof cover.


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## Bowfinger63 (Mar 5, 2006)

GrayTech said:


> I am going to try to glue or tape the Mylar onto the plastic hollow core sign material only around the edges so it stays tight and flat. Will use a thick tape on the edges of the board and tape the Mylar on the inside. Been thinking of trying a blind enclosed on all sides out of this as weight is not an issue. Maybe a hexagonal or octagonal shape. If I make it tall enough I could even try some type of roof cover.


been reading this. now I'm hooked, I can hear my gears grinding thinking about it. so I'm in.
What about using some wide and thick foam weather stripping on the edges and laying the Mylar taunt across it? it has double sided tape, and if you're worries about the center moving about in the wind-fill it in with a light coat of "great stuff" spray foam.

http://www.homedepot.com/s/foam%20weather%20stripping?NCNI-5


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## GrayTech (Jan 29, 2013)

I got stiff foam sheets with a cardboard coating for 1.50 each, and the Mylar space blankets for1.00 each, gotta love Dollarama! Seems to be working as expected, just need to connect the sheets together to create the blind. Its extremely light weight and seems sturdy enough. Will post pics when done.


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## Bowfinger63 (Mar 5, 2006)

GrayTech said:


> I got stiff foam sheets with a cardboard coating for 1.50 each, and the Mylar space blankets for1.00 each, gotta love Dollarama! Seems to be working as expected, just need to connect the sheets together to create the blind. Its extremely light weight and seems sturdy enough. Will post pics when done.


Ha! that's what I was thinking, for using for a backboard. might want to put a few 1/4" wood dowels for support around the edges, didn't think of using space blankets.cheap way to go tho. how do you get the wrinkles out?, and do you spay glue them on?  woops "spray glue" the other stuff is for sumtin else :wink:


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## Navycook91 (Jan 10, 2014)

do you have pics yet GrayTech?


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## GrayTech (Jan 29, 2013)

Huntinsker said:


> Well I finally had some time today to take a closer look at those mirrors that I found at Homedepot. Turns out that they aren't plexiglass but real glass. I assumed they were plexi because of how much they flexed without breaking. Another bad thing is that they are nearly 5lbs a piece. That's just the glass, no frame attached. Not sure where to go from here but that idea is out.


I saw some plexiglass mirror sheets at home depot today. Its the perfect stuff, but crazy expensive. $78 for 2x4 foot sheet is nuts.


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## GrayTech (Jan 29, 2013)

Bowfinger63 said:


> Ha! that's what I was thinking, for using for a backboard. might want to put a few 1/4" wood dowels for support around the edges, didn't think of using space blankets.cheap way to go tho. how do you get the wrinkles out?, and do you spay glue them on?  woops "spray glue" the other stuff is for sumtin else :wink:


The space blanket is too thin to use with spray glue, it gives it a texture. Its also difficult to work with in general. Going to try some 4mil window film instead. 

I have to say that for under $20 total my first attempt does work, but there is some image distortion in the reflection. Will have to test it out on some deer to get their opinion. Will also do a photo session soon so I can post pics.


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

Well my father in law and I had a weekend so we started working on another mirror blind idea. We used this stuff from Menards. https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...d/1-8-2-7mm-4-x-8-lauan/p-1931476-c-13336.htm

It actually measured 3/16" instead of 1/8. We cut the angles and then cut them down to 40" tall. We cut the handles and cutouts off and rounded the corners on a drum sander. On the good side, we filled the grain with drywall compound, sanded smooth, spray painted the back and then sprayed a coat of lacquer over the drywall compound and smoothed with 0000 steel wool. From there, we diluted Titebond wood glue with water and glued down 2mil mylar and used a squeegee to smooth it down. Then we cut off the excess and taped the edged down with gorilla tape to help keep it from peeling. We used zip ties as hinges because we wanted to make it easy to add or remove panels from it.

Here's what we ended up with.














We made 2 of these for just over $60. They weigh 14lbs total. You can see that there is some distortion in the image even though when we initially glued them down, the image was very clear. It seems that as the glue dried, it pulled shrunk and wrinkled the mylar just a little bit. I plan on removing the mylar off of my blind and sanding smooth. Then I'm going to coat it with polyurethane, 3-4 coats, and then sand it as smooth as possible. Then I'm going to use mirrored window film instead of mylar and glue. I hope that by doing that, it won't shrink as it dries and it maintains the mirror image.


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## Cameronm35 (Sep 10, 2014)

Did you think about using 3m spray adhesive with the mylar? may not shrink as it dries as bad as wood glue.


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

Cameronm35 said:


> Did you think about using 3m spray adhesive with the mylar? may not shrink as it dries as bad as wood glue.


I've used some spray adhesives before and they cam out of the can pretty thick. I was afraid of getting a ripple effect from not being able to smooth it out. We used foam brushes to brush on the diluted glue so it was very smooth. I think we either diluted it too much or didn't have the surface underneath smooth enough. No way to really know for sure at this point. I'm hoping the window film will work better. One nice thing about the film is that from the back side, you can see through it. So I wouldn't have to cut out the "window" that I have cut into the panels and I can still see through it.


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## Cameronm35 (Sep 10, 2014)

3m Super 77 sticks incredibly well. I think if you have your surface nice and smooth underneath the film you should be able to spray a light mist on the surface and wait for it to dry enough that it does not come off on your hand when you touch it. Then apply the mylar much the same way you would apply vinyl decals. Start slow and use something as a squeegee to take the air out under it as you work it down onto the glue. By allowing it to dry to that point before you lay it down it should have very minimal shrinkage after the mylar is applied. Thats the reason I figured I would suggest it. Ultimately its whatever you feel comfortable with because you are the one that will be using it and more importantly paying for it.


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## Chalk (Mar 4, 2015)

I am too lazy and bought a 48" "Ghostblind". I have used and a amazed how deer and other critters come so close to the blind! I wish I have it during deer season and wait for October. I suffered a stroke November 2013 and used a tree stand in 2014. I am hoping that the "Glostblind" was widen my hunting experiences. I wish all you luck in your building blinds with some awesome ideas.

Randy


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## b1004u (Dec 25, 2014)

So, for any of the folks thinking of the corrugated plastic idea, have you finished your projects? Any way to post photos? 

For me, weight is my biggest concern. I would buy the Ghost Blind in a heartbeat if it were just about cost, because a lot of the DIY versions are pretty costly. But, for weights sake, I am interested in making one out of the Corrugated plastic. I hear mixed reviews about whether or not the flutes distort the image too much, or if it works just fine... I just have yet to see one made out of a light weight material and whether or not it works with wind and such in the field.

Thanks!


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## Veni Vidi Vici (Jan 23, 2011)

redruff said:


> You can't use coroplast or any type of plastic that has lines or ridges in it if you are using the window film stuff.
> 
> Trust me I tried it! The little lines totally mess up the reflective surface so bad it doesn't produce an image!
> 
> I was going to try that 1/8 melamine 4 by 8 sheet at menards but never got around to it.


That was my experience, too, when I used coroplast to build one. Although it did still reflect well enough that it would probably still fool a deer. I also found that the mirror film scratches really easily. Just the act of folding it up and having two mirrored faces touching each other would cause scratches when I carried it around.


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## littlebaka1 (Aug 22, 2012)

I found a site that sells plastic corregated sheets 24x36 48x48 whatever thickness you want with different color options but you have to buy by the case which is ten sheets. It comes out to 109 for ten sheets I could make a couple out of that possibly with Mylar 


2014 strother vital, Easton axis, limb driver,HHA


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## Scopebite (Mar 14, 2016)

Love the ingenuity


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## Scopebite (Mar 14, 2016)

What's the cost?


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## Coltonhunter (Jun 26, 2016)

Ok, let me say this. The concept of the ghost blind is awesome. (At least I think so) I did build one myself, used 1/8th inch mirrored plexi. 30 in peannio hinges. Cutting it was a pain. Drilling it with out cracking it was a pain. And the weight is a pain. BUT, I made a carrying case with some back pack straps from Cabelas (for a treestand) so carrying it is not so bad. I typically leave it out for a weekend when I know I will be somewhere where it will work the best. Also I have killed my share of deer big and small. It is 10 times harder to kill a monster off the ground. But it can be done and adds to the challenge. If anyone is interested I can post some pics, and how I made mine.


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## Coltonhunter (Jun 26, 2016)

They Mylar is not as easy as you would think. The glue leaves tiny little bumps or bubbles under the Mylar.... Just an FYI, I tried it myself.


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## pwen68 (Jun 29, 2016)

I too recommend just buying one. Two friends and I spent hours researching and trying to do this last year. In the end, we all ended up just buying one and it was the best decision. I even pulled up the patent and read it extensively, looked for the same stuff, in the end, we could build the exact same thing for about $50 bucks cheaper. Just wasn't worth the effort. Buy one, and don't look back is my two cents.


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## Sumoj275 (Jun 22, 2016)

I missed one on a local board a few months back for a 100 bucks, made me sick. I thought I'd take a look at maybe building myself one but as many already found out price/material equations didn't make it practical for me. I'm still wanting to get one of the ghost blinds but I am hoping someone will come up with a price conscience to material combo. I don't have private land to hunt so I want a light and easy moving blind so I can get in and out. Miss the days when I could get into a tree and off the ground.


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## Tarka (Jan 3, 2021)

pwen68 said:


> I too recommend just buying one. Two friends and I spent hours researching and trying to do this last year. In the end, we all ended up just buying one and it was the best decision. I even pulled up the patent and read it extensively, looked for the same stuff, in the end, we could build the exact same thing for about $50 bucks cheaper. Just wasn't worth the effort. Buy one, and don't look back is my two cents.


Unfortunately in Australia we can't buy these (no agent) and the few that have been imported cost a fortune. I Plan to make one with Corflute and window film (which is what the originals look to be)...can one of you fine people who has a genuine item please measure the thickness of the panel and advise? It looks like it is 5mm + the window film and backing camo sheet but I want to make sure.
Thanks and Happy New Year


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

Tarka said:


> Unfortunately in Australia we can't buy these (no agent) and the few that have been imported cost a fortune. I Plan to make one with Corflute and window film (which is what the originals look to be)...can one of you fine people who has a genuine item please measure the thickness of the panel and advise? It looks like it is 5mm + the window film and backing camo sheet but I want to make sure.
> Thanks and Happy New Year


My factory made Ghost Blind measures 6.7mm. The Corflute is roughly 5.5mm and then there's thin metal sheet that the mirror film attaches to so it's good and flat.


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## Tarka (Jan 3, 2021)

Huntinsker said:


> My factory made Ghost Blind measures 6.7mm. The Corflute is roughly 5.5mm and then there's thin metal sheet that the mirror film attaches to so it's good and flat.


MANY THANKS👍 The thin metal sheet could be a problem to replicate! Maybe I'll just go straight onto the corflute and hope the deer have poor eyesight🤞


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## Huntinsker (Feb 9, 2012)

Tarka said:


> MANY THANKS👍 The thin metal sheet could be a problem to replicate! Maybe I'll just go straight onto the corflute and hope the deer have poor eyesight🤞


You might try putting a thick enough layer of some sort of hard finish on the corflute that it'll fill the grooves to eliminate the ripple effect. I was going to try using the 1/8" plywood and then put 4-5 coats of polyurethane on it, polish the poly and then put the mirror on the polished poly. I never did it after buying the actual blind so I'm not sure how it would have worked out.


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## Tarka (Jan 3, 2021)

Huntinsker said:


> You might try putting a thick enough layer of some sort of hard finish on the corflute that it'll fill the grooves to eliminate the ripple effect. I was going to try using the 1/8" plywood and then put 4-5 coats of polyurethane on it, polish the poly and then put the mirror on the polished poly. I never did it after buying the actual blind so I'm not sure how it would have worked out.


I seem to recall the earlier versions of the Ghostblind were just film on corflute (you can see the ridges in the mirror surface in the videos etc...they must have gone upmarket in ensuing versions of the blind.


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