# Tuning question for Mathews



## Gravy 31 (Apr 6, 2007)

I don't see any need to worry about it. but I cannot see what you have either. Just does not sound like much of a concern.


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## bowmangarcia (Jan 31, 2007)

*idle wheel lean*

Before u untwist any thing first chk. the idle wheel alignment. Talk to mathews engineers to see what angle works best 4 ur bow


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## ButchrCrekHuntr (Mar 26, 2005)

The string has to come off the idler wheel straight at full draw. What the wheel lean looks like at brace means nothing.

You add or subtract twists in one side or the other on the cable yoke until the string comes off straight. To check that, you can either peek up at the idler wheel when you are at full draw; or if you have someone who knows what to look for, have them stand behind you to check it.

If one side of the yoke only has one twist, more than likely something isn't right. Unless I am missing something from your post, you should set the ATA by twisting on the cable at the cam end--not the yoke end--or each end of the string depending on which way you want to go. You only adjust the yoke for cam lean although it can affect ATA, so you should adjust the wheel lean first before you go to ATA.


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

it sounds like just alot of twist as im understanding, your talking about a twist above the serving on the Y correct? if he made with less twist and you had to add some twist for cam timing then it could do that, maybe even remove the serving on the Y of cable and reserve as it will settle where it likes

Get a pic if you can


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## shooter22 (Apr 16, 2005)

OK. Ill get pic of it I am not to checking the Idle ccam yet. ALlI have to this pioint is the ATA is spot on, as is the cam tuning with the string and two mathews DZT goles perfectly parallel. but the cable has a lot of twist in it. so much so that It has the orange sring twisted over the blue one time. It juast seems to me that it would wear the string at the point of the Y serving. I was just stating if it is over twisted, can I take one or two twists out of the cam end of the ble(thus lengthening the ATA, then takign up the lost distance buy EQUALLY twisting the individual idler string(cable ) ends. Kowing that I still need to check the Idler and possibly chaniging them for idler lean. I will get the pic.


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## shooter22 (Apr 16, 2005)

ok, guys, here is a couple pics,. one is the twist is am concerned with. the others are of the bow trying to get the cam lean shot,. I have never even seen what pics need are so ai had my brother take a few, I will number them if you can, please tell me what pic needs adjusting(retaken with what feature to look for) that way I can have the pics retaken and get on with the tuning. 

Now if these pics can help I am a sponge, and need all the help I can soak in. 
IF not, tell me what pic needs changed and what to change to make it a pic that can be usefull. 

Kevin


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## x-it (Apr 28, 2008)

My yoke cable does the same thing on my dxt. It shoots fine I dont worry about it as long as my specks are on and my idler lean is fine. Mathews web site they tell you how to set the idler wheel.


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## Limey (May 6, 2005)

My Apex 7 was like that for ages until I made new cables and strings.

It shot fine that way, it is casued by the amount of twists you have in the cable. 

If you really want to get rid off it you may still be able to get the bow in spec by taking a few twists out of the cable (this will reduce poundage and draw length) and also take twists out of the string (this will increase draw length but not gain you back all the poundage you loose).

I would only bother trying to fix it if you bow maxes out heavy so that 60# bow is doing 64# and you want the hassle as the bow may not spec without the twists.


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## Limey (May 6, 2005)

Another fix is to extend the serving so you can't see it ... if it gets on your nerves:darkbeer:


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## drewbie8 (Mar 22, 2009)

I had the wheel lean like that on my old parker. When I talked to the guy who fixes my bow he said that if you put in a few extra twists on the one side to even out the lean it will fix it w/o any problems. This will also help on the wear on your string.


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## modeclan (Mar 15, 2008)

If it were me, and we have two DXT's and a SBXT in the house, I would switch the blue and orange strings. Looks like that would take away the single twist you need. So now the blue is where the orange was. I would then take a few twists out of the orange (shelf) side, and add twists to the blue (quiver) side. Looking at the pics you look like you need more idler lean unless the pic is deceiving that string is not tracking straight. I'm not a Mathews tech or a bow guru by any means but I have a press and can put a Mathews in spec. You also didn't say if the cam timing was right or not. When I set up most Mathews I set ATA first, then cam timing, then idler lean, and I only check the ATA on the shelf side. I usually let the BH fall where it falls. In my humble opinion the first 3 are most important. By the way, every time I do it this way the BH winds up right anyway. Hope this helps.


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## OHIOBUCK (Oct 25, 2006)

My winner's choice cable doesn't even have any serving in that location. I alway's thought as long as the yolk is at least 4.5 inches long, you were good to go.


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## Bert Colwell (Jun 25, 2005)

The DXT is going to have a little idler lean at rest. It is only important that the idler be straight at full draw. This information comes directly from a Mathews technician that I talked with when the DXT first came out. In my expereince, the right side of your yoke cable will have more twists than the left (on a right-hand bow). This is necessary to offset the deflection created by roller cable guard. I also like to see the twists removed all the way down to the served portion of the cable. That is not entirely necessary, but is my personal preference.


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## shooter22 (Apr 16, 2005)

Im with you Bert, I got the singel twist out and then worked on the Lean, got it coming off the idler just right at full draw. then checked ATa and brace, everythign was spot on, so I shot the bow last night in the dark at 20 yards with the aid of an outside light. then tried the adjustable reostat light on the G5 and boy when it is dark, you can really see the differnet settings. But it shot just great and smooth, quiet and dead on. '


Thansk for all the help guys. now to get the Switchback and the S2 goign.


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## DXTBIKER (Feb 15, 2009)

Bert Colwell said:


> The DXT is going to have a little idler lean at rest. It is only important that the idler be straight at full draw. This information comes directly from a Mathews technician that I talked with when the DXT first came out. In my expereince, the right side of your yoke cable will have more twists than the left (on a right-hand bow). This is necessary to offset the deflection created by roller cable guard. I also like to see the twists removed all the way down to the served portion of the cable. That is not entirely necessary, but is my personal preference.


I agree, the right side on mine is that way, its on its second string & cable set both the same.


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## 30pointbucks (Dec 7, 2008)

modeclan said:


> If it were me, and we have two DXT's and a SBXT in the house, I would switch the blue and orange strings. Looks like that would take away the single twist you need. So now the blue is where the orange was. I would then take a few twists out of the orange (shelf) side, and add twists to the blue (quiver) side. Looking at the pics you look like you need more idler lean unless the pic is deceiving that string is not tracking straight. I'm not a Mathews tech or a bow guru by any means but I have a press and can put a Mathews in spec. You also didn't say if the cam timing was right or not. When I set up most Mathews I set ATA first, then cam timing, then idler lean, and I only check the ATA on the shelf side. I usually let the BH fall where it falls. In my humble opinion the first 3 are most important. By the way, every time I do it this way the BH winds up right anyway. Hope this helps.


 You are dead on with your tuning method.


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## onlyaspike (Apr 16, 2007)

to get them twists out of your yoke you need to twist each side in the opposite direction, that way your cable will not wind up on itself.I think you twisted both sides of your yoke in the same direction and thats caausing yoour cable to twist up on itself.


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## [email protected]wctc.ne (Feb 2, 2008)

Also, twist both yoke cable the opposite direction of what the main cable is twisted, that should take the twisting out where the yoke comes together.


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## burdog (Aug 3, 2008)

onlyaspike said:


> to get them twists out of your yoke you need to twist each side in the opposite direction, that way your cable will not wind up on itself.I think you twisted both sides of your yoke in the same direction and thats caausing yoour cable to twist up on itself.


Can someone clarify this for me? Are we talking twisting both strings around each other opposite from the lower half of the cable? Or twist each individual yoke opposite of the main cable before it splits? 

Not sure if I'm making any sense.


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## BOW4UM (Jan 25, 2009)

ButchrCrekHuntr said:


> The string has to come off the idler wheel straight at full draw. What the wheel lean looks like at brace means nothing.
> 
> You add or subtract twists in one side or the other on the cable yoke until the string comes off straight. To check that, you can either peek up at the idler wheel when you are at full draw; or if you have someone who knows what to look for, have them stand behind you to check it.
> 
> If one side of the yoke only has one twist, more than likely something isn't right. Unless I am missing something from your post, you should set the ATA by twisting on the cable at the cam end--not the yoke end--or each end of the string depending on which way you want to go. You only adjust the yoke for cam lean although it can affect ATA, so you should adjust the wheel lean first before you go to ATA.


X2, Important to note to check idler wheel at Full draw as indicated above.


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