# Bear Kodiak Hunter



## CHAMPION2 (May 6, 2004)

I have a glass powered Bear Kodiak Hunter recurve bow. The bow has an AMO 60#, 44# draw weight, and the numbers on the limb are 8T6403. Can anyone tell me a little about this bow. I ended up picking it up years back and never really shot it much. I do not know much about traditional archery. What are these bows worth new? Is it a good quality recurve?

Champion2
Richwood/CSS


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

C2 - 

In the early 70's Bear made two 60" hunting rcurves. #1 was the Super Kodiak, probably the most collectable of the Bear one piece bow, and #2 was the Kodiak Hunter. The KH usualy doesn't command as high a price as the SH, none it less it's a well made and decent shooting bow. 

The early 70's risers, were light wood (almost orange) and dark brown wood separated by lamination stripes. Later Bear came out with their future wood versions, usually green on both sides of the lamination bands.

They, both the SK, and KH are good quality bows, but neither quite came to hand for me. If it's comfortable for you to shoot, enjoy. At #44, if you have between a 27' and 29" draw, a 1916 should come out of it pretty well.

With any bow of that age, check for signs of delaminations or severe stress cracks, if there aren't any - it's good to go.

Viper1 out.


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## CHAMPION2 (May 6, 2004)

Thanks Viper. I appreciate your response. I might try to fill my second tag doe with it this year. Try to get a little more proficient with it this summer.

Champion2


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## Abel (Jun 2, 2004)

Make sure you use a B50/B500 string. Fastflight will damage the tips. A 56" string is right for a 60"AMO recurve. I always buy a new string for any used bow that I get. That bow was made in that length from '68-77', in different woods and so forth. It could be quite a deerslayer if its in good condition. Jeff Massie of Massie Archery Inc. will refinish it for around a hundred bucks. In new condition its probably worth around 200. In used condition its less than half that. The only thing about getting a refurbish job is that it takes a pound or two off the draw. At 44# you're at risk for losing a hunting bow due to legal poundage requirements. Good luck.


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## CHAMPION2 (May 6, 2004)

Thanks Abel.

Champion2


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## Abel (Jun 2, 2004)

With the 8 at the beginning of the serial #, its most likely a '68 model. What color is it? Green with a blue stripe?


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## CHAMPION2 (May 6, 2004)

Abel,

I bought the bow on a few years back on a discount rack. It came with an old bear quiver that attached to the bow. The bow is in good shape. Replaced the string when I got it. Have not shot it that much, except playing around a little. I would like to get proficient enough to take one of my doe tags with it this year. Ant tips on a good arrow and broadhead set-up for this bow.


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## Abel (Jun 2, 2004)

Is your bow green with a blue stripe?

Go with a heavy arrow. A 440 grain for a 44# should do the trick, but I would go even heavier. 500-525 would be a good weight for max. penetration. A 1916 0r 2016 should be ideal, but if your draw is shorter than 28", you might opt for a, 1816 shaft....but 1916 is a good starting point. These shafts are sorta light, I would use 1/4" braided polly rope to weight the shafts down. Some folks use weedeater twine. 

Go with a well known cut on contact head like the Magnus Stinger or Simmons Landshark. I like 125 grain. Montec makes a couple of two blade cut on contact; the B52.


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## CHAMPION2 (May 6, 2004)

Abel,

Thanks for all the info. The bow has greenish limbs and a marble green and blue look to the riser along with the wood grain. I will look this weekend to make sure. 

Champion2


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