# 2011 PSE AXE 7 Problem



## SCDeer Slayer (Jul 17, 2010)

Put 2 twist in left side yoke,(when viewed from back of bow).You may have to put 4 just record everything you change.Be sure to recheck center shot. Good luck.


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## Ches (Aug 3, 2009)

I am no pro, so take this with a grain of salt. 
SCDeer Slayer, are you sure you want the twists on the left side of the yoke? I thought they were putting in on the right side to counter act the cable guard torque.
Jake18, I have and AXE 6 not a 7, but they should be close. Scottie/PA set my bow up not me. However, the bottom cam spacers were wrong on my bow from the factory, it happens. Use an arrow to check both your top idler and bottom cam for straightness compaired to the string. I usually only check the top idler because I can only adjust that with twists to the yoke, but for some reason I checked the bottom on my AXE when I got it and had Scottie fix it. Not saying yours has this problem, but worth a simple look over. Minor tuning had my bow shooing fixed blades with FP's out to 50 yards, my personal max. (bow is better than me).
Ches.


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## SCDeer Slayer (Jul 17, 2010)

Yes,an arrow hitting right will have a left tear in paper add twist to same side as tear.I had to do this with mine.Like I said though,record anything you do to it,and the results so that you know when you've gone to far or maybe not enough.


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## Tlariat (May 11, 2008)

I had an Axe 7 with similar problems. I rotated the cable rod over to where I was just clearing my vanes with my cables. I then put twists in the left yoke (like suggested earlier) and it was all good from there. Good luck!


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## Tlariat (May 11, 2008)

One more thing. When you are trying to bh tune. Don't put all your testing on one arrow. You might have a dud. Try several different ones and see how they react.


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## jrip (May 19, 2008)

I personally dont use an arrow to check for cam lean instead I use a 36" stainless straight edge but a good 48" level works too. All you have to do is pull the string stop off and lay the straight edge across the cams. I also usually re-shim the bottom cam and leave the top cam alone when its needed, but others re-shim the top cam and leave the bottom cam alone. Besides swapping shims you can also use the cable guide rod to control cam lean on the bottom cam, remember that the less pressure you put on the cable guide rod the better off you are. If you can handle shooting cock feather out that even work better.


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## Ches (Aug 3, 2009)

OK, straighten me out here. First of all, when talking about left or right side of the bow it is from the shooters (string) side of the bow, right? If you put put more twists to one side of an idler yoke, you put more pressure on that side of the axle causing it to twist or tilt the idler the opposite way. So if your cable rod is moved to the right for clearance, you put more stress on the left axle than on the right causing the idler to angle right. To counter act this, don't you remove twists from the left yoke and add them to the right yoke? Or am I been up a tree too long this year.

Ches.


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## I BOW 2 (May 22, 2002)

Use this visual, put the bow in the bow press with the bottom cam (dual, solo for single) to your right as you face the bow press. The yoke side closest to you is the left side. If you have a cable gaurd it is stressing the right yoke causing excessive cam lean. Twist left yoke and untwist right yoke to straighten cam lean. Use this visual for any other tweeking you want to do. Hope it helps. Ken


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## Tlariat (May 11, 2008)

When I twisted my yoke, it actually introduced some lean to the top at brace, but it helped the bh's greatly. Also, when I mentioned rotating the cable rod, I rotated it (from behind) up and to the left. Make sure you don't get it too far, that the cables touch the string stop. I indexed the starting position with a pencil mark so I would have a reference to see how much it moved.


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## pete32 (Jan 16, 2010)

im having same issue with my evo


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## SCDeer Slayer (Jul 17, 2010)

Pete32,pm'd you


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## lawyer (Feb 5, 2010)

*tuneing problems*

I understand how you feel /I had my bow completly stipped (axe 6) limbs checked for right locations per pse/spacers correct timed perfectly to factory specs everything.could not get tuned nightmare.to shoot bullet holes in paper and to get broad heads working perfectly out to 50 yards we had to add twists into yoke cable and add cam lean into upper cam looks weird but is now tuned.I really think there is still something not right but walk back tuned,french tuned.And 100 grain muzzy 's hitting exactly same as field points now weird.


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