# Peep distance to sight



## greyfeathers (Oct 5, 2015)

So I was playing around the other day working on my form and my shot sequence, and I noticed that I was having troubles lining up the peep to the sight to be strait forward (center of the peep to the center of the sight). I tested out that if i line up looking through the peep slightly off center, I would be off a little on the target. I tired the opposite side and sure enough arrows lands on the opposite side.
Is the peep to big? or is the sight to far forward? I have a 9" bar and using about 6" out front.
When I moved the sight closer into the bow, I found I was potentially more accurate but that could be a result of trying to line up the peep correctly.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Form first. Bow comes to you, not you to the bow. Peep/sight not aligning, if ruling out proper location of peep, you not repeating. Drifting off and down could be pulling yourself out of position or the peep needs fine tuned. Side to side is more you. Tiny pin and big peep opening isn't conductive of outstanding accuracy, but some with better eyes can do very well.

I don't care to see the housing in my peep, so I use a 1 3/4" lens and 3/64" orifice in my Super Peep. I have used a circle which fits well within my field of view to aid centering the pin. I want to say it helps, but have done well with just the pin......

If using a lens then the bar should be moved in or out for best clarity. Extension bar mounts and bow risers are not square to the world. Moving in or out can effect both vertical and horizontal impact. Find best clarity with the lens and mark bar so same length assured......


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## ken Johnson (Apr 5, 2007)

If you want to shoot accurately do not try to align your peep with your pin housing, 

Archery is no different then other sport. To prove the point, think about the athlete who make a running catch. To catch the ball as he is running at top speed he does not think of where his feet are landing or how long his stride needs to be. What he does is focus on the ball. His speed is set subconsciously. When he reaches out for the ball he does not aim his hand at the ball. He keep his focus on the ball, and his hand reaches out subconsciously. 

The same is true in archery. The key to shooting accurately is to focus on the target.

There are those who want you to mechanically align your peep and your pin housing while at the same time aligning your pin with your target. That is like telling the ball player to be sure to check to see if his arm is extended far enough while at the same time to be sure to aim his hand at the path of the ball. It just does not work. Yogi Berra.is quoted as saying, How can you hit the ball, when your thinking of hitting the ball. Yogi was a wise man. If you are thinking of aligning your peep with your pin housing and your pin with your target, you will not be able to do either. Instead you will cause tension and target panic.

Then what should you do. Do what other athletes do focus on your target and let your subconscious
align your eye and your pin with your target. The more you focus the quicker and more accurately your eye will center on your peep and your pin will move to your target. Be like all other athletes focus on your target and let your subconscious do the aiming.

Also your round peep will vary as light varies.

Watch this video.


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## BowKil (Mar 19, 2005)

Another sales pitch....... Don't worry about your sight level, either.


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## montigre (Oct 13, 2008)

I do not line up my peep with the housing. I shoot a 29mm housing for indoor and field competitions with a small 45 degree Specialty Archery peep and a chubby circle reticle. I have found I am much more consistent just aligning my peep with the reticle and putting the reticle around the center of the target. Then I just keep my eyes on the spot I want to hit and let the fine aiming take care of itself. If I am shooting for a baby x, then I add a small dot to the center of my circle. My overall peep to sight distance is 28.75" at full draw.

I really do not see much movement unless I take my eyes off the target and look at the reticle.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

BowKil said:


> Another sales pitch....... Don't worry about your sight level, either.


Well, if I'm "reading" you correctly, yes 
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I do agree with light being a issue to consider. Light can make for a deceiving sight picture, but more from the difference of artificial and natural light. 
.
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Gail does bring up a valid point, something must be there to give reference. I can line up, see the reference, the pin to it, and then it's just aiming taking care of it's self. Works.


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## HIArcher (Mar 3, 2013)

montigre said:


> I do not line up my peep with the housing. I shoot a 29mm housing for indoor and field competitions with a small 45 degree Specialty Archery peep and a chubby circle reticle. I have found I am much more consistent just aligning my peep with the reticle and putting the reticle around the center of the target. Then I just keep my eyes on the spot I want to hit and let the fine aiming take care of itself. If I am shooting for a baby x, then I add a small dot to the center of my circle. My overall peep to sight distance is 28.75" at full draw.
> 
> I really do not see much movement unless I take my eyes off the target and look at the reticle.


Just curious, what size peep do you use?


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## montigre (Oct 13, 2008)

HIArcher said:


> Just curious, what size peep do you use?


I use a 3/64" aperture. My lens is a .55 diopter for indoors and out without a verifier.


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## HIArcher (Mar 3, 2013)

Thanks for the info. I have been using a single pin with the guard housing inside my peep circle for indoor single pin because I had difficulty seeing the target center using a smaller peep. However, the idea of using a smaller peep with the chubby circle reticule instead of a pin really appeals to me and will give it a try. For outdoors I normally shoot BHFS outdoors using the a 5 pins housing within a 1/8" peep but may revisit this style and try a smaller peep using specific yardage pins and see what happens.


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## montigre (Oct 13, 2008)

You're welcome. I don't believe the smaller peep will work well using multiple pins. It will get pretty crowded and may prevent you from seeing through to the target as well and cause you to see the sight movement more.


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## bigHUN (Feb 5, 2006)

For all my outdoor rings I am using 29mm scope with large dot size pin and the 9" Shibuya is extended to 7", that brings the dot to pupil distance about 30.5" (now just talking offhead from work  but these measured values are in my OT2) 
I like higher power lenses and worked hard for years to "ignore" and learn the sight picture shown from a 6x and 7x power lenses.
No lens in peep beside the fact I am long sighted, I have worked out this issue with large pin and very small peep aperture,
I use the smallest blank (talking specialty peep sets) diy drilled to a size somewhere between the smallest to next up hole I believe its about 1mm. This way I can still center my 29mm scope and still see my large pin relatively clear.


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

Obviously there are a couple ways to line things up and in the end you have got to do it the same every single time. I personally match my peep to my scope when I come to full draw and that forces my single pin to be centered in my peep hole. To me if you are using a very small peep it is very easy to just center the pin in the peep hole when you shoot even though your scope is larger than the peep hole and not being considered. If you are using a mid size peep or large peep it is important to line up the peep with the scope ring as one of your reference points. 

I can say that spending just a single shooting session where you do nothing but move the peep until when you come to anchor it is perfect every time is a very valuable tool. So many people never do this and on every shot they fight the peep to get it right when they could have just spent one shooting session and had it good to go.


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## nestly (Apr 19, 2015)

Padgett said:


> I can say that spending just a single shooting session where you do nothing but move the peep until when you come to anchor it is perfect every time is a very valuable tool. So many people never do this and on every shot they fight the peep to get it right when they could have just spent one shooting session and had it good to go.


....or no peep at all. Sight the bow in without a peep, then without moving the front sight, install the peep and move it until you're hitting the same spot as without using a peep. Sure fire way to know your anchor is controlling peep height, not the other way around.


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

I am going to have to agree with you, that is how I teach it. For me being a semi pro shooter in asa my bread and butter distance is in the upper 30's and low 40's for distance but my overall spread is basically 20 to 50 yards. So I prefer to set my peep to around 35 to 37 yards as my baseline and I do this by removing the peep and shooting without a peep with my perfect anchor and then get the bow dead on and install the peep to that setting.

Problem is that I only do this with a new set of strings and sometimes if I am in a hurry I don't have the spare time to do it and I end up skipping this step and just use a ruler and copy what I had. I use the same bow for indoor and 3d so for indoor I do the peep setup for 20 yards and depending on the time of the year and the overlap of the two seasons I might end up using the indoor setting for 3d and when I screw up and do this I can feel myself fighting with the peep and after a few weeks I will fix the problem.


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## TNMAN (Oct 6, 2009)

If the peep to site alignment problem is vertical, then peep height is likely the problem. If the problem is horizontal, then look to your loop length, draw length or form.

Basic stuff, but important.


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