# Constantly Ripping Fletchings



## DanInglis (Feb 5, 2018)

I've tried orentating the fletchings a bunch of different ways and I seem to always tear the top fletching. I've sping wings, spider vanes and feathers and they all tear. Also recently (within the past week) I've broken 2 super rests just from shooting. Bareshafts show that my arrows are a little stiff but not terribly so. 

I've tried messing with the centershot and plunger tension. I even upped the poundage to the point where the bareshafts would group together (too heavy for me to shoot regularly) and it would still tear. 

Any suggestions on what to check/try?

Thanks in advance


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## Bender (Dec 6, 2006)

Have you actually run a true tuning process? 

If you're not familiar check this out:

https://www.fenderarchery.com/blogs/archery-info/advanced-tuning

Keep in mind that fiddling with center shot is something that is set during initial tuning. And diddling with the plunger spring isn't done until you're ready to go on to finer states of tuning. If you're wrecking your fletching. plunger tension is not likely to fix anything and can actually make a bigger mess of things by introducing a variable before its time.

Another thing you can do is check fletch interference. I prefer the Lipstick Method where you smear lipstick along the edge of the fletching, then check for smears on the rest/riser. It can you a better indication of what is actually tearing up the fletch.


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## calbowdude (Feb 13, 2005)

Post up details on your setup: riser/limbs/plunger/rest/stabilizers etc. Arrow specs: spine, point weight, fletching, nocks. Also detailed specs: draw length, holding weight at anchor, brace height, nockset height, tiller. That way we can see if something obvious shows up.


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## Seattlepop (Dec 8, 2003)

All of the above, but for a quick test I would first make sure my vanes are oriented in a "Y" shape or close. Then I would raise the nock point a 1/2" and just test fire an arrow to see if the problem persists. The last time I experienced something similar an acquaintance suggested raising my nock point and viola, instant cure.


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## huckduck (Nov 24, 2014)

Slow mo camera to see if there's contact on arrow movement


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

Need more info..

http://tinyurl.com/yybk4bp9

DC


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## kentsabrina (Aug 23, 2017)

adjust/reindex ur arrow nock + blend ur clicker blade for more clearance......it may be as simple as that....as it happened to me

n if u use super rest with a plunger, u will need to trim off this part, plus u need to make sure using the correct thickness adhesive pad...e.g. due to my short dl I use skinny 900 spine arrows for my indoor setup (35# otf), I will need the thickest pad for correct arrow clearance


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## Alik (Apr 3, 2019)

In my experience, if it is the top (top-right for RH) fletch, it is either hitting the button or the clicker. 
If it's hitting the button, you just have to turn the nock. 
If it's hitting the clicker, give it a little more bend. This should prevent it from jumping back into the arrows path. 

A picture of the arrow nocked in, where you can also see the vanes relative to the plunger, would be great.


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## DanInglis (Feb 5, 2018)

Firstly thanks everyone for you’re responses. I realize a lot more information is need. I went through dchan’s post and here is some info that I hope will help.

Subject: Tuning, perhaps arrow selection but I think the spine is close

Demographic: Beginner/Intermediate recurve archer (260/300 18m). I’ve been shooting for about a year and a half. No formal coaching but I have some good friends that are more experienced archers that have been helping me. I’m right eye dominant and right handed. 

Bow: Hoyt Eclipse 25” + Uukha X0 Long 36# (39# OTF)

Arrows: Victory VAP V1; 30” tip to nock groove (28 5/8” C to C); 140 grain points

Symptoms:
-tearing fletchings
-broken super rests
-arrow flight appears to be good
-bare shafts land ~2-3” left at 18m (39# current draw weight)
-bare shafts will group together at 41# (out to 50m)

Setup:
-30 1/8” draw length
-39# draw weight (measured on a scale)
-string is BCY 16 strand with a brass nock 
-9” brace height
-Neutral Tiller

Goal:
Stop tearing fletchings 



A few other things.
Yes I have done a true tuning process with a matchstick. 41# seems to be the ideal poundage (bare shafts grouped with a match stick), however this is too heavy for me right now and I would still get torn flecthings.

The lipstick method sounds interesting, I will have to give that a try.

Simply raising the nock point sounds like something simple I will have to try. However I’m not sure if it will help because my bare shafts group perfectly up and down and I don’t notice any porpoising.

I don’t have access to a good quality slow mo camera but we did try it with a phone. Its hard to tell from video that there is contact but the tail of the arrow definitely flexes back close to the plunger

I too use the thick adhesive pad and I did cut that part of the rest off. 

I feel like its hitting the plunger and not the clicker but I will try giving it more of a bend.


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## theminoritydude (Feb 11, 2013)

May I see a picture of your grip?


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## Captain Kirk (Sep 11, 2016)

Nocking point and nock pinch/bad release should come to closer examination


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## DanInglis (Feb 5, 2018)

It was hard to take a picture of the orentation. Hopefully you can tell from these.


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## DanInglis (Feb 5, 2018)

I'll be the first one to admit my release isn't perfect. But I'm tearing fletching pretty consistently which is what makes me think there is something else contributing to it.


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## Alik (Apr 3, 2019)

Can try making one from directly behind the arrow?

But so far it looks fine to me. I'd rather expect the bottom-left to tear.


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## DanInglis (Feb 5, 2018)

Sorry I didn't see your post before I took pictures. You can sort of see it in the pictures I just uploaded. But basically it is the standard Hoyt high angle grip with a little more angle too it.


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## DanInglis (Feb 5, 2018)

I couldn't get the camera to focus on the fletching, this kinda worked.

And this should give you a better idea of the angle for my grip


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## Alik (Apr 3, 2019)

Where exactly is the fletch ripping?

I have my top fletch more or less like you (maybe even a little bit closer to the plunger) and I don't get any tear on it. 

Moving the nock further up should give you better clearance, but then again this helps more when you have problems with the bottom fletch.

From what I see, most likely it is the clicker you somehow hit( because of the orientation I don't think it's the button).
By the way, have you adjusted spring pressure in your plunger?

Best thing to do, is lipstick test. Without it we'll just be guessing.


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## theminoritydude (Feb 11, 2013)

Do you bend your bow arm elbow slightly at full draw?


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## bruce_m (Jan 23, 2012)

Sorry if I missed it...

What is the spine of the V1?


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## DanInglis (Feb 5, 2018)

Alik said:


> Where exactly is the fletch ripping?
> 
> I have my top fletch more or less like you (maybe even a little bit closer to the plunger) and I don't get any tear on it.
> 
> ...



It usually tears along the leading edge of the fletch (which makes sense if its hitting the clicker). I occasionally have issues with the bottom fletch too but its much less common. 

I'm going to try the lipstick test as well as moving the nock point and see what happens.


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## DanInglis (Feb 5, 2018)

bruce_m said:


> Sorry if I missed it...
> 
> What is the spine of the V1?


Whoops I forgot to include it. They are 600s


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## DanInglis (Feb 5, 2018)

theminoritydude said:


> Do you bend your bow arm elbow slightly at full draw?



I don't think so. But out of curiosity how could that impact it?


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## kentsabrina (Aug 23, 2017)

can't make recommendation on forms / techniques as I am also at ur level as a target archer, though my score is better at 600~650 18m

But I see u use Shibuya plunger n beiter silver blade, same setup as mine when I had the tear.

my coach spotted/heard my arrows was knocking the plunger upon release, he swapped in a Beiter plunger for me n the noise/knocking was gone

for the clicker blade, beside blending, use the lowest hole on the blade to take away slack hence better clearance

So what I did to solve my fletching tear:
~new Beiter plunger
~reindex nock
~blend the clicker blade n use lowest hole on the blade


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## theminoritydude (Feb 11, 2013)

DanInglis said:


> I don't think so. But out of curiosity how could that impact it?


You appear to have installed a friction tape on the left side of your grip. The only reason for doing so, may be an attempt to stop your bow hand from slipping to the left, which is what a lot of archers experience. This problem is usually largely due to the bow hand directing most of the pressure on the left of the grip, sometimes from trying to avoid the string during the release. This causes a lot of torque on the bow, especially with flat grips. 

Flat Grips Are A Mistake. Trademark.


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## Mika Savola (Sep 2, 2008)

30" long 600 spine 39 #OTF with 140 gn point suggests weak arrow to hit the rest severely


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## DanInglis (Feb 5, 2018)

Mika Savola said:


> 30" long 600 spine 39 #OTF with 140 gn point suggests weak arrow to hit the rest severely


Interesting, is it possible they are hitting the rest so hard they bounce left? Because bare shafts land consistently left (indicating a stiff shaft). Also VAPs are notorious for being stiff.


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## DanInglis (Feb 5, 2018)

Mika Savola said:


> 30" long 600 spine 39 #OTF with 140 gn point suggests weak arrow to hit the rest severely


Interesting, is it possible they are hitting the rest so hard they bounce left? Because bare shafts land consistently left (indicating a stiff shaft). Also VAPs are notorious for being stiff.


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## S.B. (Sep 26, 2012)

Mika Savola said:


> 30" long 600 spine 39 #OTF with 140 gn point suggests weak arrow to hit the rest severely


This. Just change points to 100 and that will solve it


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## lksseven (Mar 21, 2010)

Mika Savola said:


> 30" long 600 spine 39 #OTF with 140 gn point suggests weak arrow to hit the rest severely


This is what I think, too.

And yes, if the arrows are smacking the rest hard, then they can be bouncing off and giving you a false stiff reading.


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## hypothermic (Aug 2, 2013)

30" 600 spine at 39 OTF, would suggest that you are T8 for easton arrow chart, should be stiffer than 600 at least, highspeed camera might confirm, but just from the information provided 600 spine is a little soft...


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

a picture from directly behind the arrow/string with the tip of the arrow visible please. Line up the string with the bolts on the riser so we can see just how far your offset is.

If you are too close to center shot or too far out, you may not be getting a proper "paradox" upon release.

But I also think you may be running a weak spine with false readings due to impact.


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## bruce_m (Jan 23, 2012)

Yes... a "false positive" can show in a bare shaft.

Like S.B. said, try the 100gr and see if there is a difference.

Bottom line make sure your results are repeatable. (ie. does turning poundage down make arrow show stiffer, or vice versa.) Make sure you can get repeatable result from tuning inputs, draw weight, point weight etc...


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## camperjim (Oct 22, 2016)

DanInglis said:


> I couldn't get the camera to focus on the fletching, this kinda worked.
> 
> And this should give you a better idea of the angle for my grip


The picture shows your left hand pulling the string on a right handed bow????????????


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## DanInglis (Feb 5, 2018)

camperjim said:


> The picture shows your left hand pulling the string on a right handed bow????????????


I wasn't pulling on the string. Just trying to get the camera to focus on the fletchings.


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