# Hoyt draw stop timing question



## shott8283 (Sep 20, 2007)

no just twist your string the same number of times you untwisted it to get you close to where you were before.. THEN twist/untwist your string to set your specific draw length... .. bow string will affect ATA b/c its just another connecting device.. brace cable is what really controls ATA.. dont use the string or slave cable to get ata back into spec.. and REMEMBER ata and BH are suggested.. you dont have to have them perfectly speced to perform the best.. cam syn and draw stop take presedence(sp) way over BH , ATA.. (if your like 10 inches off ATA or 4 inches off BH then you got problems.. but id say if your within 1/2 to 3/4 inch of ATA and 1/2" of BH your fine)

my cams are spot on for sync and draw stop is perfect.. AWESOME wall but my ATA is long and my BH is shade over spec..

CORRECTIONL:: now that i think of it....worry about BH more than ATA..if you had to pick one.. go with BH... but it still doesnt have to be DEAD on.. mines 1/4" tall and bow shoots friggen awsome..

ill try to explain better when im not so damn tired.. lol..


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## JAVI (Jun 19, 2003)

see pm


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

shott8283 said:


> worry about BH more than ATA..if you had to pick one.. go with BH... but it still doesnt have to be DEAD on.. mines 1/4" tall and bow shoots friggen awsome.


Of all the Hoyts I've owned, none measured to factory specs, usually quite a bit long. How Hoyt determines brace height is beyond me.

Got lucky. er a ? Got to talk with javi this morning, Nov 22. The man is sharp. Talked about more than the draw stop timing. Anyway, I got it done and it is smoother (no double clutch feel), wall is solid and there seems to be less jump or shock. Checked a few things - all in - rest height too. Didn't have to move anything. Shot dead on for spots as before. Just had to tweak string for peep rotation.


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## OverMyHead (Dec 8, 2005)

Javi's hoyt tuning article is great and he has been invaluable help to me as well. If someone could help my dull brain out a bit here though...I can get draw stop timing dead on very easily, even after not doing it forever. But how do you observe or measure the cam synch?


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## shott8283 (Sep 20, 2007)

i check by the timing holes in the cams... but.. it is said that using tiller is a far more accurate method.. which,,when the limbs bolts are bottomed out.. will show cam sync... i agree... if you have an accurate method of measuring tiller,, which i still cannot find a way to measure tiller accuratly enough to suit my standards.


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## WilliamsTD (Oct 14, 2004)

I agree about trying to measure Tiller is a pain. I wish someone make a bow square that has a 90 degree twist on the straight edge so it could be placed in the limb pocket and square to the string.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

WilliamsTD said:


> I agree about trying to measure Tiller is a pain. I wish someone make a bow square that has a 90 degree twist on the straight edge so it could be placed in the limb pocket and square to the string.


Hint: tiller is tiller no matter how you measure it. Use some type of straight edge you can lay across the limbs at riser. I used a 6" scale and spring cloths pin to hold it in place. Getting the measurement points out where you can see them clearly makes a big difference.

Like others, I like to went blind measuring tiller.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

WilliamsTD said:


> I agree about trying to measure Tiller is a pain. I wish someone make a bow square that has a 90 degree twist on the straight edge so it could be placed in the limb pocket and square to the string.


Measuring tiller is about as easy as it gets.  Take an arrow....put it in the back of the limb pocket....roll it on the string (it will leave a wax mark on the arrow) or put your fingers up to the string where it touches the arrow.

Now check the other side against your mark. How hard is that? :noidea:

If it is off adjust your limbs until the match....takes about 1-2 mins to do.


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## OverMyHead (Dec 8, 2005)

thanks for the replies guys...I get it. And using the arrow is a dang good way to do it...it works even with the cables and stuff that would get in the way of a normal T square. And the fact that the T square isn't turned 90 degrees as was suggested...

great info here!

Joe


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