# Tuning my Triumph + Cool Paper Tuning Station Idea



## Rantz (May 17, 2012)

Got my DS Advantage Rest in the mail yesterday (fast shipping coming from Canada!). I am not keeping the brand new Pro Tuner that I just got. The DS Advantage rest seems a lot more sturdy and durable with less exposed pieces and sticking out awkwardly.
View of my nocked arrow on it:









Latest project that I got done today that I've been putting off. I finally put together a draw board just by mounting it on the side of my 5 ft long work bench. 

*Draw Board!*
Total cost not including tax: *$47*
*Home Depot:*
* 1/2 x 6" galvanized "nipple" (Piece of threaded pipe): $2.54
* 1/2" Galvanized floor flange: $8.66
* 1/2" Gal. Cap for pipe (not necessary): $1.64

*Harbor Freight:*
* Narrow Alum. Ruler: $2.99
* Eye Bolt Assortment (only needed one to control the rope height to get a perfectly level arrow): $5.97
* 3/16" quick link "speed link" for chains: $1.99
* 1/4" x 10' braided poly rope: $0.79
* Worm Gear Winch 2,000lb (found here: http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-capacity-geared-winch-5798.html ): $22.39 (w/20% off coupon)

*Grand Total with 7% sales tax: $50.26
*
Here it is at full draw (I had previously made a pencil mark on arrow to know exactly where my full draw length was):








Please excuse the mess lol I have lots of projects going on at once.

Here is a shot of my winch and eye bolt (I rotate the eye bolt to tweak the height of the rope to get a perfectly horizontal arrow):








Mounted the winch with nuts and bolts I had lying around that were long enough.
Ignore that hole to the lower left of the eye bolt. That was where I first mistakenly mounted it and couldn't get my arrow level. I'll just fill it with wood filler.








The bubble level that you see on the arrow I got from Brite Site's online store.

I like knowing that I can just twist off the 1/2" pipe to take it off and my winch is just held on with 3 nuts & bolts if I need to move it out of the way.
I chose the worm gear winch since it has infinitesimal adjustments and I can get it exactly to any length- so NO need for a turnbuckle. I am using one chain speed link on the d loop and one speed link going from the original speed link and around the bow string in case the d loop breaks.

I'll be adding the luggage scale once it gets here. There should be plenty of room for it. The one I ordered from Amazon is here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012TDR9E/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00
It is $13.19

I checked for cam lean at full draw and there is none even though I expected to see some.

-Rantz


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## dwagoner (Sep 27, 2007)

why tape that arrow? simulate same weight that the vanes will be???

REMEMBER after christmas stock up on all that cheap wrapping paper thats all white on back for paper tuning.... usually .99c a roll for years worth


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## Rantz (May 17, 2012)

dwagoner said:


> why tape that arrow? simulate same weight that the vanes will be???
> 
> REMEMBER after christmas stock up on all that cheap wrapping paper thats all white on back for paper tuning.... usually .99c a roll for years worth


I put the bareshaft on an arrow scale at the shop and a regular fletched arrow with wrap and vanes. I found that I needed quite a bit more grains (something like 25'ish grains if I remember correctly). So yes, it was to make them weigh exactly the same. I've got a black powder reloaders scale (that seems to have tight tolerances) coming so I'll be able to weigh them all myself. The idea was to eliminate as many variables as possible.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KZ7JLW/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00

Good idea with the wrapping paper. Wax paper that we never use out of the foil/saran wrap, ziploc bags drawer was also handy and available.


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## Rantz (May 17, 2012)

*Made my winch electric!*



Rantz said:


> Here is a shot of my winch and eye bolt (I rotate the eye bolt to tweak the height of the rope to get a perfectly horizontal arrow):


Update on my drawboard design. Thank you again to the other people who laid out the plans for how to take on a DIY idea such as making your own drawboard.

Recently, I had the idea to make it easier to draw and let down my bow without my arm wanting to fall off from all of the cranking of the wormgear winch. Well I decided to spot weld the nut to the shaft and put my drill on the nut (with a socket being used with a hex drill socket adapter that I got for $3 from harbor freight). I went ahead and removed part of the handle since I don't really need it. Now I can draw and let down my bow in 10-11 seconds rather than it taking a few minutes and my arm wanting to pack up its things and go.

It makes it faster and easier to draw it in order to accurately check whatever I want to with the draw board.


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## Rantz (May 17, 2012)

*My tea teacup spine tester! I found the stiff sides.*

Okay it wasn't really teacups, but I did use two matching coffee cups.

Nuts&Bolts suggested this as a quick and easy way to support the arrows in a way that would allow you to smoothly rotate them and not need to be concerned with them moving sideways and moving the arrow out from underneath the indicator.



















Then buy an indicator dial from some place like harbor freight. I got this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-sae-metric-digital-indicator-93295.html It was $24 after I used a 20% off coupon. They have an analog one for $15.
Then you need a way to hold the indicator steady. Yes, you could fabricate a bracket and put your arrow supports on it as well, but I wanted to do it as fast as possible. So I went ahead and picked up the magenetic base multipositional stand as well for the indicator. It was $13: http://www.harborfreight.com/multipositional-magnetic-base-with-fine-adjustment-5645.html

So that's $37 (not counting tax) for my setup. It sets up rather quickly. You just set out your coffee cups and position your indicator on its stand.

Put your coffee cups right on the lip of a table or 2x4 (I used my messy workbench). I then used a practice bow string I made a while back to loop around the arrow (You can use whatever string like material you want) and then used another scale to weigh out roughly 2 lbs of sockets on their storage bar. I ended up with 2.02 lbs, but figured whatever since I just wanted to find the stiff side and not the exact spine. I hung that weight on the string.










Before I hung the weight on the string, I positioned the dial halfway between the coffee cups and zeroed it out. Then I hung the weight and proceeded to rotate the shaft little by little and found the side that had the least bending. I did each shaft at least 2 laps to confirm I had the correct spot. On my fatboys, about 2/3 of the arrows had the stiff side somewhere going through the "fatboy" label and the other 1/3 had the stiff side going through the "easton" portion of the label.

Voila. Stiff side found (and marked with a marker on the shaft) so that I can orient all of my arrows the same way when I go to fletch them. Granted I'll only be shooting these fatboys primarily indoors and it may not make a material difference, but it's the confidence that comes from doing it (and the experience to use on my next fletching of outdoor fita distance arrrows) that counts.

-Rantz


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