# Good recurve bow to begin with



## smt24219 (Jan 2, 2010)

Hi everybody.

I'm wanting to get into archery and I am in the process of trying to find out what the best bow for me to get is. I have a friend who is going to coach me (he has been into archery for many years) and he started on a recurve, but has shot a compound bow for the last 15 or so.

Anyway, he told me that PSE, Martin, and Browning make good compound bows, and he assumed that they made good recurves as well. I am going to a local archery shop today and was going to look at some, but just wanted to get some input as to what you guys think I should start with. I have a budget of up to $600 and want to get something good that will last for a while, but not necessarily so top of the line that I have to stretch a budget.

Also, I'm 6'0" and 245 lbs, and have weight trained regularly for over 20 years, so I am in decent shape and fairly strong. I was wondering what weight I should start with on a bow. I have read some advice on here that says to start low and work up, but what weight would you guys recommend?

Thanks, 

Shane


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## trapperDave (Mar 12, 2005)

start with a CHEAP used bow around 40#. Once ya know what yer doing and how to do it, you can move into a heavier, nicer bow(IF ya want). Just gettin started, you have no idea what your likes and dislikes in a trad bow will be. Dont matter if your Hulk Hogan, go light!! Otherwise a year from now you will either quit or be back here trying to figure out how to stop short drawing and snapshooting. Invest in Vipers book too, theres a TON of information in there.

as for bows...Pearsons, Bears, Martins, Samick etc. They all get er done. Stay long ...58" or greater on the length

I have a wall full of old bows...none newer than about 1975. All still going strong, none cost me over 150...many were half that or less  Timew will tell if todays bowyers make a product to last as long


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

> start with a CHEAP used bow around 40#. Once ya know what yer doing and how to do it, you can move into a heavier, nicer bow(IF ya want). Just gettin started, you have no idea what your likes and dislikes in a trad bow will be. Dont matter if your Hulk Hogan, go light!! Otherwise a year from now you will either quit or be back here trying to figure out how to stop short drawing and snapshooting..........


:thumbs_up:thumbs_up


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## smt24219 (Jan 2, 2010)

trapperDave said:


> start with a CHEAP used bow around 40#. Once ya know what yer doing and how to do it, you can move into a heavier, nicer bow(IF ya want). Just gettin started, you have no idea what your likes and dislikes in a trad bow will be. Dont matter if your Hulk Hogan, go light!! Otherwise a year from now you will either quit or be back here trying to figure out how to stop short drawing and snapshooting. Invest in Vipers book too, theres a TON of information in there.
> 
> as for bows...Pearsons, Bears, Martins, Samick etc. They all get er done. Stay long ...58" or greater on the length
> 
> I have a wall full of old bows...none newer than about 1975. All still going strong, none cost me over 150...many were half that or less  Timew will tell if todays bowyers make a product to last as long



Thanks for the advice. I didn't know whether 40# would be too heavy to begin with. 

My thought on this is that in all the sports I have ever done, I have relied on strength to overcome slight flaws in technique. I'm sure that I could pull heavy poundage, but I want to develop excellent technique and form so I don't mind to start with something light.

Another question is, are all recurve bows adjustable in weight if you get new limbs, or are some all one piece?

Thanks again.


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## JV NC (Dec 9, 2005)

I'm gonna stray from the conventional crowd, here, a little. I shot compounds for a few years before going "trad.". I can tell you......I don't think MY form would've benefitted from a 40# bow, starting out. I don't like the release on a bow of that #-age NEARLY as much as I do on a heaviER bow (I shoot a 52# bow). I know I get a cleaner release with the heaviER bow.

I'm 6'1"/ 195# and I wouldn't go ANY lower (if I had it to do over, again) than 45# (if I was going to actually SHOOT the bow).

I'd also go CHEAP. You can get a good bow for <$200, and it's already depreciated all it's going to. When you decide what you want, you can get your money back out of it.

Just my opinion.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

smt - 

ILF (Olympic) STYLE bows are usually weight adjustable by about 10% of their draw weight. That's for tuning purposes and typically not enough to make an over-bowed situation any better.

BTW - PSE doesn't make bows. They import them. That's not a bad thing as some of their newer entry level stuff ain't too shabby. 

Browning hasn't made a bow in decades (might be wrong about the decades part...). 

Martin is still out there, but their newer stuff is getting a little pricey (IMHO). 

The name on the bow doesn't really matter much for a first bow. Just go longer, lighter and cheaper than you originally thought. 

Have no doubts - you will be getting a different bow or at least new limbs within 6 months to a year. Just works out that way.

This might be considered required reading:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=388848

JV - 



> I don't like the release on a bow of that #-age NEARLY as much as I do on a heaviER bow


Think you just proved a point. If you can't get a decent release from a 40# bow, it really means you've never learned how to shoot. Not trying to be nasty, just honest. Show me a guy who can get a perfect release from a 20# bow and I'll show you a guy who knows what he's doing. The more serious shooters "revert" back to bows in the sub-30# range for form training from time to time (and more often than you'd think.) Anybody can get a "good" release from a bow that rips the string their fingers. Takes a little more work to do it with a bow that doesn't. Only problem with a bow that does (regardless of the weight) is that usually implies that the number of "decent" shots will be very limited. Different strokes.

Viper1 out.


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## Two Blade (Jul 13, 2008)

Viper1 said:


> Anybody can get a "good" release from a bow that rips the string their fingers.


Dr. Ed Ashby admits that this is why he shoots such a heavy bow.

http://acsbows.com/ashbyarticle.html



> The logic behind Ben's cure was precise. The higher 'holding weight' of the high poundage traditional bows tends to literally rip the string from one's fingers, minimizing the amount of string and limb torque caused by a poor release.


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## flycaster (Jul 28, 2008)

Definitely get Viper1's book. The man knows what he's talking about. BTW- if you're pretty strong, I don't think a 40# bow would be too much. I'm not particularly strong, and can handle 40# fine, even after a layoff. You could certainly start lighter, as Viper alludes to. Then you would be able to work more on your technique, especially the release. Oh- and "muscle-ing" your way past problems won't work well with trads. One biggy is that you should be using your back muscles a lot in your draw. If you just use your arm, you will be sorry!

Chuck


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## smt24219 (Jan 2, 2010)

flycaster said:


> Definitely get Viper1's book. The man knows what he's talking about. BTW- if you're pretty strong, I don't think a 40# bow would be too much. I'm not particularly strong, and can handle 40# fine, even after a layoff. You could certainly start lighter, as Viper alludes to. Then you would be able to work more on your technique, especially the release. Oh- and "muscle-ing" your way past problems won't work well with trads. One biggy is that you should be using your back muscles a lot in your draw. If you just use your arm, you will be sorry!
> 
> Chuck


Just ordered it off of Amazon.

By the way, I guess I am going to go ahead and get a Samick sage. I just have a question though. With the recurves, do I have to have a certain size for my draw length, or is it kind of like a range with each bow, or one size fits all? My draw length was 29" and I didn't know if I needed to know that really for recurves.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

smt - 

Technically stickbows don't have draw limits like the stops on a compound, but they do have what we call stack points. Every stickbow draws smoothly up to a point and then the weight starts increasing at a much faster rate. When that happens, the bow becomes uncomfortable to shoot. The trick is to get a bow that stacks AFTER your draw length. For example if your DL is 29" and the bow stacks at 30" - who care?

Typically your draw length will be shorter on a stickbow that on a compound, but given some examples of compound form these days - all best are off. Whatever your draw length is measured on a stickbow right now, expect it to change over the next few months - usually it gets longer. 

John -

Sure, the higher draw weight gives a cleaner release, for that matter so does snap shooting. The downside is that they both screw up so many other aspects of form that the trade of just isn't worth it.

Viper1 out.


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## Two Blade (Jul 13, 2008)

Viper1 said:


> John -
> 
> Sure, the higher draw weight gives a cleaner release, for that matter so does snap shooting. The downside is that they both screw up so many other aspects of form that the trade of just isn't worth it.
> 
> Viper1 out.


Tony, I hope you didn't take it that I was justifying a heavy bow to make up for a poor release. If that was the case, I would be shooting nothing but a heavy bow to help my own release out. It was just a little info that I thought was interesting and worth passing along. John


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

John -

No problem buddy, just wanted to clarify. And I wasn't kidding, releasing while drawing back almost guarantees a clear release, but then comes the fact that the odds on releasing at the same point every time kinda negates the benefits of the release. Ditto for the heavy bow thing. When using by "weight training" Oly bow (about 54#), the first few dozen shots are about as clean as they get, after that, it's real work to keep it going. As in breaking a sweat work. Like-wise, when I drop down to my "form" bow (about 30#) getting the first few shots off cleanly takes an entirely different kind of "work".

Viper1 out.


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## JV NC (Dec 9, 2005)

> Think you just proved a point. If you can't get a decent release from a 40# bow, it really means you've never learned how to shoot.


So you've seen me shoot?....lol



> And I wasn't kidding, releasing while drawing back almost guarantees a clear release, but then comes the fact that the odds on releasing at the same point every time kinda negates the benefits of the release.


Man....that's a stretch. Dontcha think (the assumption)?

I got a "cleaner" release, shooting a compound, when I had my holding weight a little higher than most, also.

I see NO PRACTICAL REASON to shoot a 30# bow. I'm not going to hunt with it....and I am a hunter (first, foremost....and almost exclusively). I ONLY said that I get a cleaner release with the 52# model I hunt with. I never said I couldn't shoot a 30# bow.

Maybe (just maybe) I shoot both bows at a fairly proficient level. Unfathomable, though, huh?

But again, hey....I'm JUST a hunter. Feel free to critique my form. I'd appreciate the feedback.


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## smt24219 (Jan 2, 2010)

Viper1 said:


> smt -
> 
> Technically stickbows don't have draw limits like the stops on a compound, but they do have what we call stack points. Every stickbow draws smoothly up to a point and then the weight starts increasing at a much faster rate. When that happens, the bow becomes uncomfortable to shoot. The trick is to get a bow that stacks AFTER your draw length. For example if your DL is 29" and the bow stacks at 30" - who care?
> 
> ...


Do you know at what length the Sage stacks at? Would it be a decent bow for my draw length?


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

NV -

Sorry buddy, those are facts and there are no assumptions; guys pushing 300's indoors and 1300's outdoors can't all be wrong. And nobody is telling YOU what to do. 

smt - 

I don't think that bow will have a problem with your draw. BUT wood bows being made from, well wood, even with sequential serial numbers MAY not be identical. That's why for a first bow, we always suggest going with LONGER bows. Just "stacks" the deck in your favor.

Viper1 out.


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## Flying Dutchman (Aug 7, 2008)

I am all the way with Viper. I am involved in training and coaching people into traditional archery. For mature man 30 lbs is a fine weight to begin with. Over this drawweight you will make it yourself unneccesary difficult, no matter how strong or in what shape you are. I've seen kids after some years of decent training who can pull a 50 lbs bow with ease, where their strong, heavy muscled, well trained fathers couldn't!

Second point is, that after half an year, maybe a year you *will* buy another bow. So I would look around for a low-weight sceond hand bow, test-drive as many as you can before you buy something and get yourself half an year training at least, and then see where you stand.


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## JV NC (Dec 9, 2005)

> Sorry buddy, those are facts and there are no assumptions; guys pushing 300's indoors and 1300's outdoors can't all be wrong.


Tell 'em to post up their kills from this year. Honestly, for my purposes, what an archer is able to do in a target setting is about as useless as tits on a boar hog.....if he can't translate that to results with a live animal in front of him.

My "12 ring" is subject to movement. And I'll match my hunting season (1st all trad. hunting season, in 2009) with ANY of your paper punchers'.


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## trapperDave (Mar 12, 2005)

so you're a newbie that has ONE trad season under his belt and now ya know it all? LOL

check your ego at the door, you are in the presence of truly GREAT archers here, and neither you nor I are one of them 

you'll learn a whole lot more with your mouth shut and your ears open, IMHO


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## Belicoso (Aug 22, 2006)

JV NC said:


> So you've seen me shoot?....lol
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice Tip you got there


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

Everyone grab a stirring stick...

Stir it up


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## smt24219 (Jan 2, 2010)

Viper1 said:


> smt -
> 
> I don't think that bow will have a problem with your draw. BUT wood bows being made from, well wood, even with sequential serial numbers MAY not be identical. That's why for a first bow, we always suggest going with LONGER bows. Just "stacks" the deck in your favor.
> 
> Viper1 out.


How long would you suggest? I see that the Sage is 62". I will probably have to order one, so if there is a chance of it not being the right length, I'm not sure what I would do. Do most stores order one that they don't have in stock, but not make you pay for it if it doesn't work for you?


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## LongStick64 (Aug 29, 2009)

Back to the original question

1. Hoyt Dorado, in my opinion, great bow for anyone, very tunable, can be shot off the shelf or with an elevated rest and good resale value. This bow will do it all for you, especially at the start.

2. Martin Jaguar, it's cheap as hell, can only be shot off an elevated rest.

3. A used bow in your price range. You will be surprised on what you can get these days. Bows that easily can be sold new for 800 are being sold for 500 or less.


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## JV NC (Dec 9, 2005)

> so you're a newbie that has ONE trad season under his belt and now ya know it all? LOL
> 
> check your ego at the door, you are in the presence of truly GREAT archers here, and neither you nor I are one of them
> 
> you'll learn a whole lot more with your mouth shut and your ears open, IMHO


Never claimed to know it ALL (or anywhere CLOSE to it). I said I get a cleaner release with a 50# bow than I do with a 30# bow. No more knowledge was claimed.

And as far as hunting goes, I was ONLY comparing what I do v. what the paper punchers do. It seems a few people in this forum have blinders on......and think THEIR game (i.e. target archery) is the gold standard for our sport. I simply disagree. How "they do it" OFTEN doesn't translate into how it goes down in the field.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

smt -

62" is "probably" fine, but I wouldn't bet the farm on it. Here's why - at 6' a safe guess would put your draw length in the 30" range once your form develops. If you accept your first bow as a training bow, then 66" would be even better. Also remember if you get a 35# bow @ 28", at 30" it will be closer to 40#. 

Look, it really doesn't have to be all that difficult. *Get a bow that appeals to you on some gut level.* Just keep the weight on the low side and the length of the long(er) side. You're first bow isn't going to be a prefect match. 

Viper1 out.


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## Floxter (Sep 13, 2002)

Once again Viper's advice is spot on. Longer and lighter will always be better for the beginning traditional archer. A lighter bow will allow you to comfortably shoot all the practice shots you're going to need while initially developing proper form. A longer bow will have less finger pinch and will be more forgiving; that's why tightrope walkers carry long poles instead of short canes. A longer bow will probably stack less at moderate draw lengths. Look for a good, cheap used bow in the 30s that's at least 64-66" long. As someone mentioned: within about 6 mos you'll have a much better idea of what you really want, but I guarantee you'll continue to come back to that light weight bow to work on form and just plain fun. Don't get swept up in the macho thing. Just because someone can draw and shoot a 50# bow with reasonable accuracy at 15yrds, doesn't make him/her an archer, and it doesn't guarantee they'll be a successful hunter when that trophy buck steps into the open at 35+ yards.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

I'd opt for a used or less expensive long and light DW bow, as a few others have said. A light DW bow is not forgiving, it makes you get form consistant to have consistant results. It also will not pidgeon-hole you into a weight based DL. I'm not as experienced as a bunch of guys here, but I'd recomend a 30-40 lb bow at you DL to get going. It takes fighting the DW out of the equation.


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## I'm Not Ted (Feb 12, 2009)

JV NC said:


> Never claimed to know it ALL (or anywhere CLOSE to it). I said I get a cleaner release with a 50# bow than I do with a 30# bow. No more knowledge was claimed.
> 
> And as far as hunting goes, I was ONLY comparing what I do v. what the paper punchers do. It seems a few people in this forum have blinders on......and think THEIR game (i.e. target archery) is the gold standard for our sport. I simply disagree. How "they do it" OFTEN doesn't translate into how it goes down in the field.


IMO, our sport is traditional archery. Just traditional archery. Not traditional target archery, not traditional "hunting" archery, just traditional archery. Doesn't matter what form it's in, so long as it's a traditional bow, shooting an arrow.

And Viper wrote a book...


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## JV NC (Dec 9, 2005)

Target archery and hunting are two distinctly different endeavors. I have nothing against target archery (shot a 3D shoot, just today). But I understand the differences inherent in each.



> And Viper wrote a book...


That's like telling Rush Limbaugh................Karl Marx wrote a book.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Ah but hunting is all about hitting the spot, as is target archery. They are much the same. The set-ups might be different but both are about hitting the spot.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

I understand what your saying though, a little more lbs on the fingers gets the string away quicker. But a lower lb bow requires a clean release.


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## smt24219 (Jan 2, 2010)

Viper1 said:


> smt -
> 
> 62" is "probably" fine, but I wouldn't bet the farm on it. Here's why - at 6' a safe guess would put your draw length in the 30" range once your form develops. If you accept your first bow as a training bow, then 66" would be even better. Also remember if you get a 35# bow @ 28", at 30" it will be closer to 40#.
> 
> ...


I'm sorry if I asked too many questions. I'll look around for some long, light bows. Thanks for your help and I look forward to getting your book. It should be here Wed.


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## Floxter (Sep 13, 2002)

Don't ever apologize for asking questions. We all had to start somewhere and this is as good a place as any.


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## I'm Not Ted (Feb 12, 2009)

I bet even Viper has some questions! 

Just kidding.


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## smt24219 (Jan 2, 2010)

Floxter said:


> Don't ever apologize for asking questions. We all had to start somewhere and this is as good a place as any.


Thanks Floxter. I realize to learn I have to ask questions, but sometimes I think I might overdo it. 

On that note, here is a couple more. LOL.

Do all recurves start stacking after 28", just less so if they are longer bows. For instance, if I have a 60" bow and a 66" bow that are both 35# @ 28", does that mean after 28 inches they will both start adding weight? Would it mean that the 60" bow will add maybe 2# per inch after that, but the 66" will only add 1#? 

Also, just for curiosity's sake, as i was looking at 66" takedown bows, it seemed none of them went higher than 38#, while the 60" and 62" went up to like 60#. Do people with a long draw length develop their technique on the longer bows and then get shorter bows and can deal with the stacking because they have learned proper form?

Thanks again for your help.

Shane


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## I'm Not Ted (Feb 12, 2009)

The way I understand it (correct me if I'm wrong someone), all bows will gain weight after 28 inches. But certain bows gain it at a faster rate. Does that make sense? Bows will increase poundage until the eventually break. A longer bow can handle a longer draw length so it will take longer to stack than a shorter bow. Sorry if that's foggy. 

As for the other question, I have no idea. I have found though that a lot of recurves made by the big company's are in the 58-62 in. range. Not sure why, just seems to be the norm. Older recurves seem to be longer than newer ones. I.E. 66 in. etc.

Again, anyone, correct me if I'm wrong...


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Shane -

All bows stack, their stack point is solely based on DESIGN and length is part of the design. There's a lot that goes into what makes a bow stack at a certain point, some simple to understand (like length) and some a little more complicated like amount of reflex or deflex in the limbs and/or riser.

You could easily have two 60" bows, one that stacks at 26" and one that doesn't stack until 30". Like wise you can have a 62" that doesn't stack at 29" and a 66" one that does. (Don't read anything into those numbers, I just made them up.)

Just go with the longest bow you can deal with from a known manufacturer and start shooting!

Viper1 out.


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## JV NC (Dec 9, 2005)

> The way I understand it (correct me if I'm wrong someone), all bows will gain weight after 28 inches.


Wouldn't any bow "stack" when they get past YOUR DL. And, wouldn't the degree of stack be dependent on design?

I've seen several trad. bows that were designed for DL's longer than 28".


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Yup, the farther back you draw, the more weight gained. Stack is a sharp rise in weight.


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## Orion Major (Oct 20, 2006)

> "2. Martin Jaguar, it's cheap as hell, can only be shot off an elevated rest.


"

What would cause a bow to be UNABLE to be shot off the shelf??


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## Floxter (Sep 13, 2002)

Virtually all bows can be MADE to shoot off the shelf. But some are designed specifically to shoot off the shelf, i.e. have a radiused shelf, whereas others are not designed to shoot off the shelf, i.e. have a long flat shelf such as found on most olympic recurves. Bows not designed for shooting off the shelf require that their shelf be built up with material to allow a smaller contact point with the arrow, or alternatively the use of an elevated rest.


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## TheAncientOne (Feb 14, 2007)

> What would cause a bow to be UNABLE to be shot off the shelf??


If you are using vanes try feathers, they are more forgiving. If you post your draw weight, length and arrow specs we might be able to see if you are set up properly.

TAO


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## I'm Not Ted (Feb 12, 2009)

JV NC said:


> Wouldn't any bow "stack" when they get past YOUR DL. And, wouldn't the degree of stack be dependent on design?
> 
> I've seen several trad. bows that were designed for DL's longer than 28".


 Dunno. Viper cleared that one up, I was miles off.


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## Finger_Flinger (Mar 25, 2009)

"Stacking" was defined to me as when a bow starts adding weight more than 2 or 2.5# when being drawn before, @, or past the 28".


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## innate123 (Dec 4, 2006)

Finger:

That is how it was explained to me. Instead of the 2# increment, it starts going up 4 - 5 - 6 lbs per inch or 2". The bowyer that I spent some time with last week said it is pretty easy to feel. 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong ( I am a newb after all - lol), If the bow stacks it may be 45# at 28" and then #48 at 29" and then jump to 54# at 30" perhaps. 

t


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## Orion Major (Oct 20, 2006)

> Quote:
> What would cause a bow to be UNABLE to be shot off the shelf??
> 
> If you are using vanes try feathers, they are more forgiving. If you post your draw weight, length and arrow specs we might be able to see if you are set up properly.
> ...


My question could have been worded more clearly. Someone had said:



> 2. Martin Jaguar, it's cheap as hell, can only be shot off an elevated rest.


I was wondering what it was about the Jaguar (or any bow) that would cause it to be able to "*ONLY* be shot off the shelf".

I thought all bows were, as Floxter said, "can be MADE to shoot off the shelf". Sorry for any confusion, and thanks.


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## I'm Not Ted (Feb 12, 2009)

innate123 said:


> Finger:
> 
> That is how it was explained to me. Instead of the 2# increment, it starts going up 4 - 5 - 6 lbs per inch or 2". The bowyer that I spent some time with last week said it is pretty easy to feel.
> 
> ...


That's what I was getting at but had a hard time explaining it. I know what stacking is, just can't put it into words. I understand that design means a lot, I think that a longbow with a D shape tiller, will stack faster and more than a reflexed longbow, or a D/R longbow. However, I think shorter bows tend to stack faster and more than longer bows in general...


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## mesquite (Dec 28, 2009)

JV NC said:


> Target archery and hunting are two distinctly different endeavors. I have nothing against target archery (shot a 3D shoot, just today). But I understand the differences inherent in each.
> 
> 
> 
> That's like telling Rush Limbaugh................Karl Marx wrote a book.


Yeah but Rush Limbaugh is the world's biggest moron ... lol. Sorry but all those damn political pundits on TV just irritate me.

Anywho, I don't see why hunters try to distance themselves from target shooters. How can you say you can consistently hit a possibly moving target if you can't consistently hit a static piece of paper? I would think that before one goes out into the woods and just starts potentially wounding animals, one would want to make sure their accuracy is spot on. And sure, I guess you could stay within 15 yards all the time, but I would still wager that a good target shooter will have a better chance than just a pure "hunter". I don't know if people like Larry Yien around here, but that guy is a world class target shooter and has regular hunting success.

I don't know... make of it what you will I suppose.


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## Two Blade (Jul 13, 2008)

mesquite said:


> Yeah but Rush Limbaugh is the world's biggest moron ... lol. Sorry but all those damn political pundits on TV just irritate me.


Your second post here at AT (before it was deleted) was telling another member that is he "qualified enough to suck your 10" @#$%" and you have the sack to say that Rush is a moron!!!!


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## JV NC (Dec 9, 2005)

> Anywho, I don't see why hunters try to distance themselves from target shooters.


That road has two lanes.

I'm one who tries to relate target archery techniques/etc... into my hunting. And, I'm aware of the two-way traffic.


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## LFM (Jan 10, 2004)

It is interesting how some tradional posts provide detail information on how to choose a Traditional Bow and yet other threads ridicule someone trying to learn by asking questions. I asked and seem some thought Traditional Archery was be on my when I was asking about the same thing the OP did here. I was thinking of getting a reucurve that I could shoot comfortable because I bought a Bear Grizzle @ 60 and though I can shoot it it is only for a short time. I hate to buy another Recurve and find out the same about it so I asked a question and once I saw the replies I decided that getting grief was not worh the time trying to learn but after Reading this thread I did but again have lost the interest because it appears that Traditional Gear is only for those that know all about it so I rarely visit this section.

Maybe one day I will buy one.

Hope the OP finds one he likes and enjoys shooting...

LFM


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

> It is interesting how some tradional posts provide detail information on how to choose a Traditional Bow and yet other threads ridicule someone trying to learn by asking questions. I asked and seem some thought Traditional Archery was be on my when I was asking about the same thing the OP did here. I was thinking of getting a reucurve that I could shoot comfortable because I bought a Bear Grizzle @ 60 and though I can shoot it it is only for a short time. I hate to buy another Recurve and find out the same about it so I asked a question and once I saw the replies I decided that getting grief was not worh the time trying to learn but after Reading this thread I did but again have lost the interest because it appears that Traditional Gear is only for those that know all about it so I rarely visit this section.


Don't put the load on Fanny!

Get off Fanny!

I find your critical evaluation of this forum and the members, too broad; preposterous at the least. You want the readers to believe that a bunch of cyber-criticism from one forum from one archery-related website destroyed your desire to pursue the use of a traditional bow? BS!

You know what me thinks! Me thinks that you were talkin' the talk then discovered that you were unable to walk the walk, and now you want to save face so that later on if anyone wonders what happen to your desire and why you gave it up; rather than admit you just did not have enough desire and ability to learn and just were not able to accept the limitations of a traditional bow vs. a c-bow, you have an excuse.

That is what me thinks!

PS: However, if by chance your story is legit, I cannot tell a lie; Viper did it! LOL!


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## Two Blade (Jul 13, 2008)

WindWalker said:


> I find your critical evaluation of this forum and the members, too broad; preposterous at the least. You want the readers to believe that a bunch of cyber-criticism from one forum from one archery-related website destroyed your desire to pursue the use of a traditional bow? BS!


Agreed!:beer:


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## LFM (Jan 10, 2004)

I guess that is just how some are here at this section... But again this post has great info on the same question I had asked I guess it all dpends on when and who is reading the post. You can find mine if you look but again some also make braod statements without looking for the reason why I mad e BROAD Comments...

But again I rarely come to AT just saw this thread and Viper had GREAT info about bows wished he would have expanded on TD Recurves but yet to find any that are at a decent price when I was looking...

This will be my last post in this section... Seems some are not willing to answer questions like others are... So I will leave it to those that are willing to come here...

I will stick with My Oneida's for now... Looks like a recurve but is a compound.

LFM


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## Flyboy718 (May 20, 2008)

Check out the Quinn line of bows...I recommend the Stallion. Very smooth, accurate and quiet.

www.quinnsarchery.com


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## 2Ten (Dec 9, 2009)

My 3 cents:

My first bow was too much draw weight; 51#. I could "handle" it fine, but I really wasn't developing good form. Ended up with target panic. You do NOT want that.

I find Viper's book really helpful.

Check out Quinn Stallions. Excellent bow; quite reasonable in cost; limbs are reasonable; try to find a negative post about them anywhere.


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## Curve1 (Nov 25, 2009)

Quinn Stallion..great bow at any price.
If you prefer a wood riser....look at Samick RedStag.
You wont break the bank with either of these bows. I would start out at 40 to 45 pounds.


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## smt24219 (Jan 2, 2010)

Ok guys. I went ahead and got a Greatree Mohegan 66" at 32#. I shot it for the first time today and took some videos. So, here they are. I'm especially interested in some feedback from Viper as to what I need to do differently. I shot about 30 shots earlier in the day before I got my camera battery charged up and then went up and shot these 18 shots, filmed from 3 different angles. 

What I'd like to know is, what do I need to work on and change? I noticed while watching the videos that I am rushing everything, so maybe I need to slow down. But again, I appreciate any feedback.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdQJujK4QeE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZL1MIdEWNI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSIqOMuvuLw

Keep in mind that I have only shot a compound bow (not mine) once about 10 years ago, so I am completely ignorant to all this.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Shane -

I'm not sure what happened, but somewhere during the middle of the second video, things fell together.

Your alignment is pretty solid. OK, I'm impressed. 

The anchor looks good, but a little hard to tell on the video.

Now, about that second and third video. The plucks that were evident on the first almost disappeared and the bow hand softened up. Nice. I think you were trying to make it perfect for the camera, and you came pretty darn close.

There's still some inconsistency from shot to shot. There are still a few (but smaller) plucks tied to some collapsing. 

Best suggestion right now, is keep doing what you're doing. Just slow down and and relax a little more with EACH shot. 

There are still a few minor flubs in form, but nothing to sweat now. We can go over each one later, but the trick is to do what will give you the best bang fore the buck first. (That's why I'm not picking your form apart - yet.)

If I were coaching you, the next order of business would be for you to *write down* a shot sequence and then start doing it by the numbers. That will increase your shot to shot consistency.

Very nicely done!

Viper1 out.


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## rickstix (Nov 11, 2009)

Cool…very cool…now how cool is that. Did I mention cool.

I really hope you enjoyed some of that…and I can hardly wait to see the vid at a thousand arrows. For the moment I’ll remain kinda blind to much, as general unfamiliarity seemed pervasive…no worries, mate. As you become more familiar you will bring more to the plate and hopefully leave with more. 

Seems people tend to rush things for the sake of a video clip…that said, I’d slow the pace of practice a bit so shooting becomes more of a study. Fliers, to whatever degree, happen…best to know why. 

That was much better than what’s presently on the tube. Enjoy, Rick.


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## smt24219 (Jan 2, 2010)

Wow, thanks guys. I really appreciate the feedback. I'll post more videos as I practice more. I'll probably take today off. My back is sore right between my shoulder blades. I was surprised at how tired I got from just that little bit of weight. This is a lot harder than it looks.

Viper, when you say write down a shot sequence, do you mean write down step by step everything I do all the way through the shot? Like "Pull arrow out of quiver." then "Nock arrow". Like that?

I had a blast with this. I'm hooked.

Again, thanks guys.

Shane


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Shane -

Not too worried about you pulling the arrow out of the quiver and nocking it (but you are doing it inefficiently, right now), but yes. You need to write down the individual steps to take in making your shot. The list will start out small and grow, then get smaller again. 

When you're in a match or that buck you've been after get within range, things can get a little hairy. If you have a "list" of things to do, it not only forces you to go through the steps, but actaully has a calming effect, as you're not leaving anything (on yur part) to chance. 

Viper1 out.


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## smt24219 (Jan 2, 2010)

Thanks Viper. I will work on a list and try it tomorrow.


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