# Cabelas Arrow saw not enough power?



## weekender21 (Jan 27, 2012)

Update.... 

If I go slow enough to cut through the carbon first and then the aluminum it provides a reasonable cut. I have to spin the arrow about 3 rotations total to complete the cut this way but it does work....just not as efficiently as other saws I've used.


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## Green River (May 13, 2006)

Do you have your saw is set up so the blade just penetrates the thickness of the arrow shaft wall? If so you should be able to plunge cut the wall thickness and then spin the arrow to finish the cut and provides a perfect 90* cut. If you can post a close up picture of your blade set up, it should have only about 1/8" or so of blade exposed.


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## weekender21 (Jan 27, 2012)

Yep, that's how it's set up. If I "plunge" the arrow to cut the entire carbon/aluminum wall it binds the blade or at least slows it down substantially. I've cut arrows using friends saws and never had this problem.


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## Green River (May 13, 2006)

Unplug it and see if the motor and blade spin freely? Usually these saws have sewing machine type motors on them, maybe it has a bad bearing?


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## weekender21 (Jan 27, 2012)

It does spin freely but doesn't continue to spin unless I'm actually moving it with my fingers. In other words it doesn't make multiple rotations. I think something must be wrong with the motor. The only other thing I can think of is the blade thickness. It seems really thick for the task.


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## Strodav (Apr 25, 2012)

I've got the 5000 rpm version and use it to cut several different arrows including Easton ACEs. I rotate the arrow while applying gentle pressure against the blade in order not to bog it down too much. It takes a while, but with a little patience, I get nice clean cuts.


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## weekender21 (Jan 27, 2012)

Yeah, I cut 24 ACC Pro Hunters but it took much more time than it has with other saws I've used. I need to determine if I'm getting less than par performance out of this saw or that's just how it works.


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## Mumbles24 (Jan 2, 2013)

Mine cuts my FMJs fine. Patiently rotate and the cut seems very clean. Squaring is a breeze.


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## weekender21 (Jan 27, 2012)

Yep patiently is a bit of an understatement with my saw. If I push all the way through the wall, even slowly, it binds down. I have to wait for the RPM's to catch up again and then slowly rotate. I usually get a burn mark or flared carbon doing it that way. I did get a pretty clean cut letting the blade cut the carbon on the first rotation and aluminum on the second pass. Again, it worked just not nearly as well as other saws I've used. 

I'm just trying to figure out if I got a lemon of if that's just how this saw works. 

If you take off the yellow shield as if you were going to change out the blade, I have a little play in the blade. You can push/pull it in and out of the motor at least 1/4" is that normal?


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## Andy. (Jan 12, 2011)

Something is wrong with the motor. I have an 8000 rpm apple and it cuts fmj's like butter and will cut an all carbon arrow without binding the motor at all.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Ya it sounds like there is a mechanical problem. I had an older moter that would not kick over into the high RPM's and would bog down when trying to cut. Perhaps this is the same issue. I don't think what you are describing is normal.


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## weekender21 (Jan 27, 2012)

Cool, thanks. I expected more, especially form the 8000. I'll give Cabelas a call.


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## weekender21 (Jan 27, 2012)

Talked with an "expert" at Cabelas. According to her it's normal for that saw to require 4-6 rotations to cut through a carbon/aluminum arrow. Really? Might have to return it and buy an Apple Saw.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

I like my apple. For the quality of the cut, you don't want to jam things in there, but if you give each arrow a few seconds, you get a nice cut, and you wear the blade down slower. I probably average about 6-10 seconds of cutting per arrow. Never notice the blade slowing.


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## blucky (Feb 25, 2007)

A thinner blade will help, but be careful if you go to thin they tend to shatter if to much pressure is applied. If you have a 1/4 in of end play in the motor that is way to much.


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