# Bowtech Pro38 setup/tuning



## kjclark7 (Nov 19, 2011)

well i twisted the cable tighter to see if i could shorten up my axle to axle and all i did was throw off my timing mark. should i twist the string also to shorten up the ata? 
i'm starting to think that the timing mark is to the bottom of the screw, not the middle. right now i have it to the middle of the screw and my max weight is 67 lbs. when i had it to the bottom, it was 70-71 lbs. but at that point, my brace height was a little shy of spec but my ata was too long. i'm going to try a little more tinkering but if i can't get the ata right, (the closest i got was 37 1/2"), i'm going to call it good enough.


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## kjclark7 (Nov 19, 2011)

anyone?


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## kjclark7 (Nov 19, 2011)

well i'm not able to set the bow up with its stock specs for brace height or axle to axle. but i did set it back to where i had it prior to the new string/cable. i'm wondering when they gave me the new updated limbsa few years ago , that they are not the same as the stock ones were. i never measured axle to axle or brace height on the original limbs so i don't know if the bow was ever at spec before. 
so i finally got back to shooting and i did the modified french tuning method again. i also shot broadheads at 10 yards and they were spot on with the field points. i'll have to shoot outside at longer distances in the daylight later on this weekeend. 
what should the distance be on the cable from where it splits to where it attaches to each side of the axle? can it be too long or too short of a distance?


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## kjclark7 (Nov 19, 2011)

this is what i was talking about









is that distance too long? when i try to wrap the two strands together, they unwrap and put more twists in the cable.


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## vftshooter71 (Jan 29, 2010)

On my extreme vft I usually untwist or put twists in the string to set my ata and bh to spec. Then I twist or untwist the cable to get my timing marks on the cam set. As far as the split being to long I dont really know but as long as the bow is in spec I wouldnt think it should matter. Mine isnt quite that long but mine has about 2 inches of serving under the y split. After you get the bow in spec you should also check for idler lean and if you have any you can straighten it by twisting or untwisting the yoke one side of the Ycable. Which side of the Y yoke to twist up or out will depend on which way the idler is leaning if it is. To check for this just lay an arrow against the idler on the shooter side of the string. There should be a small gap between the arrow and the string all the way down past the nock point. If the arrow crosses the string or gets closer to the string then your idler isnt straight and usually adding a couple of twists to the yoke on the right side will straighten it up. I am no expert but this is how I set up my bows up and they shoot good and meet the factory specs. Hope this helps ya out.


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## kjclark7 (Nov 19, 2011)

i wasn't able to set my ata and bh to spec. i tried twisting the cable and the string but the more i twisted the more my cam was out of time. so i set the timing on the cam and called the ata and bh good. my ata measures 37 9/16" (spec is 37 5/16") and my bh measures 6 15/16" (spec 7 1/16"). well the measurments matched the same before i did the change over to a new string and cable. and as far as that Y in the cable goes, i know the stock cable was not that wide of a Y but it seems to work now with my setup. 
i've sighted in out to 60 yards and i'm touching arrows. i've also broadhead tuned out to 30 yards and i've got a little more tiny tiny tweaking i think. i may have some wobbly arrows so i'll have to recheck the ones that were flyers and shoot again. 
the only thing left to do for me besides some more shooting is tying in my peep securely.


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## vftshooter71 (Jan 29, 2010)

Thats cool man! If you are touching arrows out to 60 yards I would leave it alone. My bows never come in right at the factory spec either but as long as they are close I dont worry about it just like to make sure my cam timing is on. The real test is how it shoots and sounds to me like yours is shootin great. Happy New Year!


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## kjclark7 (Nov 19, 2011)

well i twisted by string some to change where my d-loop was situated and tried twisting my cable to fix the Y. it seems that if i twist the Y, it just puts more twists in the cable and opens up again. i wonder if i should serve below it to keep the Y where it should be. any thought on doing that? 

so after i messed with the string and cable again, i went out and shot. needless to say, my changes messed with things a little. my broadhead are flying close to the fp's but not totally there yet. one thing i realized is form is super critical when shooting broadheads. just a little change makes a big difference. 

so here's where i stopped for now. this is a 40 yard group of fp's










and here's a 40 yard group of broadheads. i'm using 100 grain thunderheads, the old style ones










i'll probably end up moving things a little more to get them just right.


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## kjclark7 (Nov 19, 2011)

i also shot a few shots through the chrono and was getting 285-290fps at 70lbs with a 405 grain arrow. not bad for a 2002 bow


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## kjclark7 (Nov 19, 2011)

if i drop the poundage on the bow about 3 or 4 pounds, about how many fps am i going to loose? my broadheads are wandering at 60 yards (up and to the right) so i figure i would drop the poundage a little to fix the spine issue.


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