# Just orderedd my Samick Sage, have some questions!



## Hoyt Jake (Feb 20, 2011)

Hey ya'll, again... lol So i went for it and ordered the samick sage, after reading all the great reviews, I ordered it with 40# limbs, I also ordered the FF Flemish string, I have a 31" DL with a compound in case you guys forgot about my earlier posts, im just wondering what weight arrows i need. I have a dz of the new maxima hunters im not going to use with my compound, so im wondering if I could put those weight tubes in em and get them where they need to be, so thats one of my questions, second what is a good user friendly rest I can put on her? it has the hole to use a plunger put im not sure if thats the best route. You guys have always been so much help and cant wait to hear from ya! have a good one! Thanks, Jake


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## northern boy (Aug 25, 2010)

A 600 spine arrow would be a good start an lot of people just use a side plate an rug rest . thats up to you I like velcro for rest an side plate. I don,t think you will need weight tubes a 400-450 gr total weight will work well for hunting. also don,t know the spine of the maxima hunter. more info needed an real draw lenght with the sage.


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## IAIS604 (Apr 11, 2010)

Jake -

First thing to do is to get your DL measured using a low weight recurve.

You will need to decide on an initial anchor to do this.

Expect it to be different than for your compound.

THEN you can calculate (or better, measure) YOUR draw weight at that DL with that bow, and THEN you can decide about arrow length and spine.


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## Curve1 (Nov 25, 2009)

IAIS604;1061326057 said:


> Jake -
> 
> First thing to do is to get your DL measured using a low weight recurve.
> 
> ...




Very good advice.


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## airwolf (Jul 28, 2005)

I just got a sage last month. just out of curiosity. what limbs did you get to start? with that long of a draw length your draw weight is bound to be critical. is this your first time with recurve?


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## AZwarts (Jun 23, 2010)

shoot off the shelf it is radiused and it works great ( I have the same bow). Second, your dl will usually be 2-3 inches shorter than your compound dl.


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## hillwilly (May 20, 2011)

x2 off the shelf, ff twist string makes a noticeable difference and as for the arrows fletched with feathers 125gr tips is where i'd start keep them long and adjust as needed.


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## Jim Casto Jr (Aug 20, 2002)

AZwarts said:


> ..... Second, your dl will usually be 2-3 inches shorter than your compound dl.


Curious... I see several folks say that very thing. My draw length is 1 and 1/2" longer with the recurve. Why would it shorten from a compound device?


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## Hoyt Jake (Feb 20, 2011)

I ordered mine with 40# limbs, My maxima hunters have a 350 spine, I am 6'2 with an 82" wingspan! haha (thats 2" shy off 7') I just have this feeling im still gonna have a long draw. but I am new to recurves, so i could totally be wrong, I also have a stupid question, when shooting off the shelf, how does the fletching not interfere? thanks for all the advice and please, keep it comin! Thanks Jake


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## Greysides (Jun 10, 2009)

Hoyt Jake said:


> ........ when shooting off the shelf, how does the fletching not interfere?/QUOTE]
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzWrcpzuAp8


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## LBR (Jan 1, 2004)

[QUOTE...]but I am new to recurves,...[/QUOTE]

Advising the right spine will be luck. We don't know what your draw length is, how good your release is, etc.

You might get in the ball-park pulling a light bow, or you might not. If the grip styles are different, that can affect your draw length a couple inches or more; plus when you have low resistance you'll tend to stretch out a lot more. For instance, I "can" draw a light weight/draw length bow to 33" or so...but my real draw length is 30.5" on my favorite bow.

I think the Sage comes with a flipper rest, but I prefer off the shelf (keep it simple). Feathers offer little interferance because they will lay down when passing by the riser (the reason we use feathers rather than vanes when shooting off the shelf).

When you get the bow and get a rough idea of your draw length (it will change as you develop your form), weigh the bow at that draw length and get your arrow weight up accordingly. With your long draw, I would stay with at least 9 grains of arrow weight per lb of draw weight, i.e. if you are pulling 50#, your finished arrows should weigh at least 450 grains.

You can add a plunger if you choose, but you won't have to. For me, one of the main reasons I switched to traditional was to get away from gadgets--less to break, wear out, get loose, etc.

Chad


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## airwolf (Jul 28, 2005)

Jake i hope your a strong guy. i started out with 40 pounds last summer. what a mistake that was. way overbowed before . getting the fundamentals of shooting down is one of the dumbest things you can do. last month i switched to a 30 pound sage and im doing alot better, still struggling with long shots though. 25+ yard shots are a hit or miss for me yet. i hope it works out for you.. keep us updated


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## hillwilly (May 20, 2011)

Think I may be over bowed my self, shoot1/2 ass with 60# limbs and 50# limbs get better results( more consistant) but giving up a lot of speed


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## kraven (Jan 25, 2006)

hillwilly said:


> Think I may be over bowed my self, shoot1/2 ass with 60# limbs and 50# limbs get better results( more consistant) but giving up a lot of speed


speed is a minor consideration.


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## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

First thing I though when reading the original post................Oh, no - overbowed to begin with. 31" Draw on compound will likely be around 30" on the recurve with 40#@28" limbs = 45#+ that is a lot of weight to start with. I think you would be much better off to keep the heavy limbs for later and get yourself some 30# limbs to learn on. Good luck to you.


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## LBR (Jan 1, 2004)

Speed is relevant to arrow weight. If you want to keep the same speed with a lighter poundage, shoot a lighter arrow.

I also want to clarify what I said before--when I said I can draw 33", I can do that and keep basically the same anchor point.

Chad


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## Hoyt Jake (Feb 20, 2011)

Thank you all, that video helped alot, and that makes sense about the feathers... I pulled a 30# pse that a local sports shop had last night with ease. it was like when i drop my 73# compound down to 60#. exactly what it reminded of. Im hoping im not overbowed though. I guess if I am I can just order another set of limbs, I guess now i wait til i get the bow. Then I will be able to give ya'll more info. Can I use different limbs with this bow or just the sage limbs? Just wondering. And yea I think I am going to just shoot off the rest kind of the same reason im getting a recurve, no drop away rests, sights, just natural. 
Thanks again ya'll, Jake


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## mmorton (Aug 17, 2010)

do yourself a favor and buy "shooting the stickbow" by anthony camera. i think he is viper1 on AT. you can search on here or you can find the site by the same name on the web. there are answers in that book to questions you haven't thought of yet. its one of the best resources you are likely to find out there. 

on the topic of the sage, that was my first recurve (long time Mathews guy here) and i started with 45# limbs since i shoot a 70# compound and take my advice....buy the 35# limbs. form and release are everything with a recurve or longbow. it takes no time to develop bad habits and ages to get rid of them. with a light draw weight you can perfect your form nd release and then work your way up in weight. with that long draw length you will probably notice that the sage stacks a bit too. I am far from an expert but i have put quite a bit of time and energy into shooting recurve. pm me if you have any questions.

Marc


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## centershot (Sep 13, 2002)

"I pulled a 30# pse that a local sports shop had last night with ease." - Exactly what you want, it is very difficult to work on form if you are fighting the draw weight of the bow. I'd rather shoot a bow 5# too light than one that is 2# too heavy. Another vote for "Shooting the Stickbow" - best $20 I have spent on Traditional Archery.


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## tvJefe (Jun 6, 2011)

^

Get "Shooting the Stickbow". I'm reading it through for the second time now.


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## airwolf (Jul 28, 2005)

Hoyt Jake said:


> Thank you all, that video helped alot, and that makes sense about the feathers... I pulled a 30# pse that a local sports shop had last night with ease. it was like when i drop my 73# compound down to 60#. exactly what it reminded of. Im hoping im not overbowed though. I guess if I am I can just order another set of limbs, I guess now i wait til i get the bow. Then I will be able to give ya'll more info. Can I use different limbs with this bow or just the sage limbs? Just wondering. And yea I think I am going to just shoot off the rest kind of the same reason im getting a recurve, no drop away rests, sights, just natural.
> Thanks again ya'll, Jake


you probably should have got that 30# that felt easy. you know with your compound your only holding like 15# . after many shots and longer distance your probably gonna wish you had 30# on . these bows are trial and error and it shouldnt take you to long to realize what you need to become proficiant.


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## SoCalArcher (May 22, 2009)

Jim - with the absence of let-off, normally associated with a compound, there is an increase of skeletal and muscular compression, i.e. wrist, arms & shoulders. Also, shooting fingers instead of a mechanical release will influence anchor point; all contributing to a decrease in draw length.


Jim Casto Jr said:


> Curious... I see several folks say that very thing. My draw length is 1 and 1/2" longer with the recurve. Why would it shorten from a compound device?


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## Jim Casto Jr (Aug 20, 2002)

I appreciate the effort, but I’m not convinced. I hoped that part of the conversation/thread had taken on a little more discussion. Perhaps a dedicated thread was/is in order. 

I doubt physiology has any impact on draw length even if we’re talking about a 100 pound bow. I’ve seen guys draw their compound and anchor behind the jaw with an index finger and handheld thumb release. Many of them also use a string loop. Taking into account the barrel of the release and the loop, it seems to me that if an archer was in proper (bone to bone) alignment, his draw length with a recurve would have to increase substantially, or at the very least remain the same. Unless, of course, he short draws, leans forward, moves his face to the string, etc., etc. No sir… at this point I “think” the ole “having a shorter draw length with a recurve" is one of those old tales that takes traction and people accept as truth. 

I would enjoy reading thoughts that would attempt to convince me I’m wrong, however. :^)


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## Hoyt Jake (Feb 20, 2011)

Alright I got her! put her together twisted string till i got an 8" BH and draw it back to my anchor point point fine.... YAY! I was so scared i got the wrong limbs but Im 24 Sweat my ass off ten hours a day 6 days a week putting in pipeline, so I had confidence in my strength, have a buddy comin over in a little bit to help me measure my DL. Then I will need help with arrow choice please, mostly spine/ deflection, so I would love the continued help ya'll, and thank you for everything so far!
Thanks, Jake


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## doestobber (Sep 5, 2010)

hillwilly said:


> Think I may be over bowed my self, shoot1/2 ass with 60# limbs and 50# limbs get better results( more consistant) but giving up a lot of speed


doesn't matter how fast the arrow is going if you can't hit what you're aiming at. just my $0.02


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