# Wood Arrow Finishing (an altermnative option)



## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

A patient man indeed... :thumbs_up


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

rattus58 said:


> A patient man indeed... :thumbs_up


"Snipers Credo" brother Rattus! 

*"With the patience of an oyster making a pearl..."* LOL!


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## UrbanDeerSlayer (Feb 10, 2012)

I have used oil based wipe on poly with good results. I have tried lacquers, epoxy based, water based poly, and shellac. All but the oil based poly has produced significant target burn on the arrow shafts. Foam targets and hay bales are the worse for target burn. 

I am curious on how these hold up to some shooting in foam and straw bales.


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

UrbanDeerSlayer said:


> I have used oil based wipe on poly with good results. I have tried lacquers, epoxy based, water based poly, and shellac. All but the oil based poly has produced significant target burn on the arrow shafts. Foam targets and hay bales are the worse for target burn.
> 
> I am curious on how these hold up to some shooting in foam and straw bales.


Nothing holds up to straw.... :laugh:


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

UrbanDeerSlayer said:


> I am curious on how these hold up to some shooting in foam and straw bales.


That's the beauty of things here for my way of thinking Tony...cause they don't have to..."Hold Up"...just wipe another coat on up front. 

What I'm interested in monitoring is "Moisture"...and making sure my shafts are well sealed to keep it out.


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

JINKSTER said:


> "Snipers Credo" brother Rattus!
> 
> *"With the patience of an oyster making a pearl..."* LOL!


 Hehe.... that is why I'm a stalker... a walker.... till when I'm to nock her.... :grin:

As to the oyster bit.... when have you ever clammed up... :laugh:


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

JINKSTER said:


> That's the beauty of things here for my way of thinking Tony...cause they don't have to..."Hold Up"...just wipe another coat on up front.
> 
> What I'm interested in monitoring is "Moisture"...and making sure my shafts are well sealed to keep it out.


if it seeps into the wood at all, and that is the problem with most coverings, they don't, it shouldn't be a problem... in my opinion and experience.... by shooting into buckets is in defense of just so... pistol casings or blunts keep my shafts out of the "grass" so to speak... :grin:


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## Albtraum13 (Jul 10, 2009)

They look great.


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

Albtraum13 said:


> They look great.


Thanks! 

I did these Doug Firs for my Americam Elm Holmegaard Self Bow about 2-3 years ago...I'm going to do these much the same but sans the flame look. LOL!


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

JINKSTER said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I did these Doug Firs for my Americam Elm Holmegaard Self Bow about 2-3 years ago...I'm going to do these much the same but sans the flame look. LOL!


 they do look great... but surprised you'd be using them to spin the roast... :grin:


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## Homey88 (Dec 10, 2013)

Jinkster they are some nice looking arrows. That does it all in one shot stains and seals, that is awesome. Where did you purchase Watco Danish oil from if you don't mind me asking.


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

Homey88 said:


> Jinkster they are some nice looking arrows. That does it all in one shot stains and seals, that is awesome. Where did you purchase Watco Danish oil from if you don't mind me asking.


Your store! LOL! Homey Depot! LOL!

sorry...it was just there. 

One thing I should make mention of is this...

I don't think I'd try gluing fletchings directly too the Danish Oil finish...and what I did to negate that is I used a stain/oil blocker called "Kilz" as a base coat prior to doing the blow can cap job...










then the paint and polycrylic clear coat goes on...the tape comes off... and now...










they're ready for nocks and feathers....just figured I'd mention that.


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## Homey88 (Dec 10, 2013)

Thanks jinkster I will check it out! Still can't wait to see the broadheads fly!


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## UrbanDeerSlayer (Feb 10, 2012)

I am less concerned with how well the finish seals, and more concerned the finish melts when it hits the medium (foam, straw). Removing target burned pieces of straw and foam from a wood shaft is a pain.

Minwax wipe on poly is easy to apply as a top coat and fletch tite glue works well with feathers on the poly.


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

UrbanDeerSlayer said:


> I am less concerned with how well the finish seals, and more concerned the finish melts when it hits the medium (foam, straw). Removing target burned pieces of straw and foam from a wood shaft is a pain.
> 
> Minwax wipe on poly is easy to apply as a top coat and fletch tite glue works well with feathers on the poly.


Something tells me you never tried the oils Tony....Danish or Tung...because the first obvious difference you'd notice right away is that unlike poly, gasket lacquer or even epoxy?...is that the oils don't just lay on top the surface...they saturate INTO the surface...so there's not much of anything TO burn....but the wood itself seems to take on a sheen as the shot count goes up.

It's also nice to know that while coating the entire shaft on comes at a weight added cost of3-5 grains?...with some experience and finesse the door is open to an elevated level of weight control where consistency is concerned.

I'm certainly not twisting anyone's arm to take this route...just suggesting an alternative I myself prefer.

L8R Bill


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## UrbanDeerSlayer (Feb 10, 2012)

Thanks Bill. I have not tried the oils or tung, hence my posts on this thread. I will have to try it on my next batch. Although, I prefer to not stain the shaft as the natural lighter color is preferable to me, as it is easier to see in my vision and I am a gap shooter. Do they make it in clear? I also like the idea of using the sealer to help match weight the shafts. 

Perhaps I will oil the shafts and top coat the fletched area with a wipe on poly as I have achieved good bonding of the feather to the shaft with fletch tite platinum on wipe on poly.


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

UrbanDeerSlayer said:


> Although, I prefer to not stain the shaft as the natural lighter color is preferable to me, as it is easier to see in my vision and I am a gap shooter. Do they make it in clear? I also like the idea of using the sealer to help match weight the shafts.


Yes...they do...it's called "Natural"...


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## airwolf (Jul 28, 2005)

most people dont have that kind of patience jinkster


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