# Whays the best way to check bow center shot?



## moally1 (Feb 11, 2007)

I'm in the process of tuning my bow and I need to check my center shot but don't know how. The only tools I see online for this job are the EZ laser tuning tool and things like that but I don't want to spend that much money for a laser tuner. I was wondering if there was a cheaper alternative to finding your center shot on a bow.


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

There is. Eyball it, and head to the range. Do a walk-back or french tune to set your centershot. If you don't know what I'm talking about just use the search option and type in walk-balk. If your still unclear, come on back here.


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## jbuttolph (Jan 23, 2009)

Here you go. Read this post #2 from Nuts & Bolts. Walk back tuning. It works great. Good luck! 
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=646202&highlight=walkback


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## red44 (Apr 11, 2005)

Geez I ought to use the spell check.:embara:


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## Atreyu (Nov 26, 2008)

As someone who made a living for a number of years running a pro shop, I can see some issues the average shooter may or may not run into with the walk back, and french tune methods. For one, a lot of people have a nasty case of target panic. If you happen to fall into that category then I would not suggest tuning in any manor that has you aiming at a target. I find that paper tuning is the best old standby. you are shooting at a blank piece of paper, so it eliminates target panic all together. You can just concentrate on a good form shot which is extremely crucial for true bow tuning that your form is right on. It doesn't require as much space to paper tune, and can be easily done inside away from wind and other factors. My preferd method is to shoot through paper at 3ft, 6-9 ft, and if you have the room 10 yrds. All it consists of is shooting through a hanging piece of paper infront of your target. paper should be nice a taught. Adjust your center shot, and rest height/nock point until you have a nice round hole with fletching slits in the paper. That should produce a fantasticly tuned good shooting bow.


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## BullElkKiller (Mar 13, 2007)

I have always eyeballed my center-shot. Then set your rest height so the arrow will be even with the mounting hole in the riser. Start with your nock about 1/8" high. Then Paper-Tune your bow!!! Make all the final adjustments (nock height and rest adjustment) to get your arrows producing a perfect hole through Paper. This is the best way to get your bow in tune. If your bow is not producing perfect holes through paper you will have trouble getting fixed blade broadheads to fly like your field tips.


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## Roskoe (Apr 15, 2007)

That's pretty much how I do it. Initially set the rest so the center of the arrow shaft is between 3/4" and 13/16" out from the riser horizontally and centered on the Berger hole vertically, and set the nocking point either square or 1/8" above square. And then begin the process.


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## poole (Jan 10, 2008)

I use paper to get close, then walk back, french, or group tune or a combination.


IMO lasers are worthless for any bow that has ANY cam lean. And ALL bows have cam lean to some degree except shoot through type systems and some true 2 cams. All bows that have the cables pulled to the side are subject to plain old physics. Even solo cams have cam lean....maybe not idler wheel....but the cams will lean when cables are pulled to the side.

When the cams lean, or the limb tips twist (for anal people), the string is shifted at full draw compared to where it sits at rest. As the bow is fired the string is moving (or trying to move) laterally back to the same position it was in before the bow was drawn. A laser shows you where to set your centershot while the bow is at rest. A laser has no idea what your cams do when drawn. The worse the cam lean, the more the laser will be off for your centershot. So lasers are just about worthles to me for setting center shot.


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## tmo (Feb 5, 2009)

Eye ball it , then go papertune.then walkback , then bh.


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## Ode1891 (Aug 30, 2006)

Atreyu said:


> I find that paper tuning is the best old standby. you are shooting at a blank piece of paper, so it eliminates target panic all together. You can just concentrate on a good form shot which is extremely crucial for true bow tuning that your form is right on. shoot through paper at 3ft, 6-9 ft, and if you have the room 10 yrds. That should produce a fantasticly tuned good shooting bow.



Yep, you'll run into all sorts of opinions for and against paper tuning but it works for me. If I get a good hole at several distances, BHs will almost always follow the target tip impact.


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## HammyAbeer (Jul 15, 2008)

tmo said:


> Eye ball it , then go papertune.then walkback , then bh.


bam!


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## Nightimer (Jan 22, 2003)

Place an arrow on the rest etc.
Then hold another arrow against the riser beside your original arrow (assuming that your arrows are not too thick.
So what you will have are two arrows side by side (you will have too make sure that the second arrow is tight against the riser).
Then measure the gap between the arrows near the nock end and near the tip.
Wind the arrow rest in or out to correct the gap.
When they are the same you will be in the ball park.
If you think about it you are doing the same as a laser would do by taking a reference point from the riser.
Hope this helps
Nightimer


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## princejohn (Mar 6, 2007)

*Centre shot*

I have seen many replies on this subject. Most seem to advocate getting an absolute bullet hole in paper at say 10yds. Most then say to go out and shoot at a target and adjust nock or rest until your either get good groups or walk back tune until you achieve centre shot. The question is why spend a lot of time getting a bullet hole in paper and then immediately altering these settings outside???
What I do is set the bow and rest up square i.e. nock, such that the arrow passes thro centre of burger and is at 90deg to string. Center shot done by eyeing thro string/arrow or in my case I have a piece of perspex say 3" by 6" I cut one 6" side as straight as possible and then draw lines say 1/4" apart parallel to the straight edge. Place arrow on rest and place straight edge against riser laying on top of arrow notice how arrow lies against the drawn lines. Adjust rest until arrow is parallel to lines.
Then paper tune mainly focusing on adjusting nock height to get as good a HORIZONTAL tear as possible i.e. nock height is good if there is a slieght tear left or right dont worry. Go outside get some rough sight settings say 4yds 20yds 40yds 50yds.
Lets have a think about what we're trying to solve in centre shot. We have an OPTICAL LINE i.e. the line from eye thro peep thro sight to target and the other line we have is the ARROW LINE i.e.the line the arrow will take when it fired. CENTRE SHOT IS WHEN THESE TWO LINES MATCH. If they dont match i.e. the arrow will fly at an angle to the optical line then the best way to see this discrepancy is to shoot arrows at two distances as far apart as possible WITHOUT ALTERING the sight setting (since the sight bar may be out). THERE IS NO NEED TO SHOOT ARROWS AT 5yd intervals Depending on your bow you will find that your sight setting at around 4yds IS THE SAME as the sight setting at around 45yds. So what we do is shoot arrows At 4yds and alter our sights until the arrow is dead on (I aim at old arrow holes). I then walk back to 40yds? and shoot again aiming at the target or a piece of tape hung vertically down the target, this time not altering the sight. This 40yds exaggerates the angle and any error in centre shot can be seen. I then alter the rest to bring the arrow back on target/tape and start the process again at 4yds and 40yds?


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## Nuwwave (May 20, 2009)

poole said:


> A laser shows you where to set your centershot while the bow is at rest. A laser has no idea what your cams do when drawn. The worse the cam lean, the more the laser will be off for your centershot. So lasers are just about worthles to me for setting center shot.


I don't know if anyone had tried it, but I saw a guy set dynamic centershot with a laser.

He used an eze-laser and another on the tip of the arrow. Set the centershot at rest and then drew it back in a draw machine and adjusted some more. He did this a couple of time and said it was perfect centershot.

Sounds like he may be on to something.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

Eyeball it....or set it where the manufacture tells you to start. Most companies put in the manual where to start on their bows. 

Then paper tune....I just make sure nothing funky is going on with this. Then group tune at 50-60 yds.


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## poole (Jan 10, 2008)

Nuwwave said:


> I don't know if anyone had tried it, but I saw a guy set dynamic centershot with a laser.
> 
> He used an eze-laser and another on the tip of the arrow. Set the centershot at rest and then drew it back in a draw machine and adjusted some more. He did this a couple of time and said it was perfect centershot.
> 
> Sounds like he may be on to something.


Now I like that! Pretty slick.


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