# Field shooters - Do you "node" tune your field arrows?



## CherryJu1ce (Feb 25, 2005)

What exactly is the THEORY behind this? Does it apply to drop away rests?


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## BOWGOD (Aug 11, 2004)

CherryJu1ce said:


> What exactly is the THEORY behind this? Does it apply to drop away rests?


I just asked the same question on the other thread. I have been hearing the word an awful lot lately. But up until the last week I have never even heard the word "node" So I am lost, and anxious to learn about it.


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## CherryJu1ce (Feb 25, 2005)

I know that the idea is to "pluck" the arrow until you can find a point where the "frequency node" is directly where the arrow is resting on the edge of a table. In theory, that should be where the rest contacts the arrow also, making it more stable somehow, while it's on the rest. But, I'm just curious as to exactly what happens with a drop away rest? Does this actually affect how the arrow flies?


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## BOWGOD (Aug 11, 2004)

CherryJu1ce said:


> I know that the idea is to "pluck" the arrow until you can find a point where the "frequency node" is directly where the arrow is resting on the edge of a table. In theory, that should be where the rest contacts the arrow also, making it more stable somehow, while it's on the rest. But, I'm just curious as to exactly what happens with a drop away rest? Does this actually affect how the arrow flies?



Well I'd like to hear more, as well as maybe some more in depth instructions on the proper way to do this. I have been shooting now for 25 years, and honestly the last week is the first I have heard of this. But I have always said anything is worth a try, if it improves my shooting even 1 point it was worth the effort.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

No I don't ....

I swear that we were talking about this over on ALC a couple years ago and GRIV or someone said that it doesn't work the same with carbons. But I am not positive. 

Send GRIV a PM on it :wink:


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## DHawk2 (Feb 18, 2007)

I had heard that it's only good for the oversized aluminum arrows with heavy points.


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## south-paaw (Jul 3, 2006)

i believe it is a must for finger shooters, not sure about mech-release shooters. the horizontal arc of the arrow needs to clear the riser as it passes through... if the node of the arrow is bending towrad the riser as it passes, then contact will be made.


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## rock monkey (Dec 28, 2002)

thats what the cushion plungers are for.

for a release shooter, the idea is that the arrow's forward flex point is on the rest as the shot goes off, there-by minimizing the spring action of the blade on the arrow shaft. finger shooters have a left-right archer's paradox and the release shooters have a lesser degreed but up-down paradox.

does it work? i dont know. i'm not that good of a shooter to notice but i do understand the idea behind it.



south-paaw said:


> i believe it is a must for finger shooters, not sure about mech-release shooters. the horizontal arc of the arrow needs to clear the riser as it passes through... if the node of the arrow is bending towrad the riser as it passes, then contact will be made.


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## NEVADAPRO (Jul 5, 2007)

There are two places on an aluminum arrow (it works on carbon but not as much) where the arrow never moves while it's flexing. One at the front, and one at the rear of the shaft. 

Think about how an arrow reacts in a high speed camera action shot. The arrow bends "around" the riser upon release. Then it snaps back in the other direction in exactly the same manner. The points where the arrow "snaps" back and forth are the "nodes".

You want the front node as close to your wrist flex as possible. Where the arrow rest mounts makes that a little difficult but you can get it close. This way the arrow reacts exactly the same while leaving the bow...every time.


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## mag41vance (Mar 13, 2008)

The only strange thing I do in tuning shafts is really more sorting. I take the bare shafts without inserts/ points, or nocks and free roll them on a clean level formica top. when the shaft stops rolling I mark the upside.I do this 3 times with each arrow to see if they stop on the same mark. If they do, they become short range sacrificial arrows. Any shafts that tries to roll back and forth before they stop, become my short range sacrificial arrows as well. I usally have 3-4 shafts per dozen that get tagged.
This might not work so well on tapered shafts.


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