# Is Samick Sage Takedown good for killing Moose?



## 108548 (Jul 31, 2008)

Yeah, it'll take a moose. Lots of guys will likely chime in and say you need to start out with a 30# bow to learn the fundamentals and really perfect your form before progressing to a heavier poundage. I definitely agree with them, but I think a lot of people also complicate things more than necessary. So I'll split the difference and recommend a 50# bow with a really heavy arrow and lots of practice. If you haven't had much bow experience at all, then definitely start with a much lighter poundage and work up. When training and learning, try not to reward yourself for bad form by releasing the arrow. By doing this you'll build up your strength and endurance to handle the heavy poundage while also reinforcing good form. It's worked for me..


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## Old Sarge (Sep 9, 2008)

The bow would be fine. The real question is are you good enough to kill a Moose? You said you are just starting out in archery which leads me to believe you have no experience at all. If that is the case then in my opinion you probably cannot shoot accurately and consistently enough with a recurve or longbow to hunt anything this season. Shooting a bow accurately so you cam make a well placed killing shot on game is something that takes time to learn. It is not an instant gratification sport! With the risk of just wounding an animal being fairly high even for an experienced archer I think for a newbie the odds are way against you making a clean shot.
The best bet would be to buy a bow around 30 pounds as mentioned, learn to shoot properly and practice as much as possible. Buy heavier limbs for the Sage in small weight jumps and work up to the 55 pounds so you can hunt next fall.
Of course you could be the greatest shot that ever lived even with no experience but by the tone of your post I doubt it.


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## dhaverstick (Jul 26, 2006)

I agree with what's already been said. Unless you are a gifted athlete, you are going to need a lot of practice to be proficient enough with a bow to ethically hunt any animal. You say you are new to archery, are you also new to hunting? If you are then you have really compounded the issue and made the learning curve a lot steeper. Hunting, in general, and bow hunting, in particular, is not an activity where one decides to participate and then just walks out the door and does it. The technical aspect of the sport needs to be mastered; weapon proficiency, knowing the animal, woodcraft, etc. and the ethical aspect needs to be dealt with; "Can I make a clean kill?", "Do I know what to do with the animal after I've killed it?"

I've been hunting for over 40 years and I'm still working on getting better at it.

Darren


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## Sauk Mountain (Aug 3, 2015)

These guys are spot on. 



Old Sarge said:


> The bow would be fine. The real question is are you good enough to kill a Moose? You said you are just starting out in archery which leads me to believe you have no experience at all. If that is the case then in my opinion you probably cannot shoot accurately and consistently enough with a recurve or longbow to hunt anything this season. Shooting a bow accurately so you cam make a well placed killing shot on game is something that takes time to learn. It is not an instant gratification sport! With the risk of just wounding an animal being fairly high even for an experienced archer I think for a newbie the odds are way against you making a clean shot.
> The best bet would be to buy a bow around 30 pounds as mentioned, learn to shoot properly and practice as much as possible. Buy heavier limbs for the Sage in small weight jumps and work up to the 55 pounds so you can hunt next fall.
> Of course you could be the greatest shot that ever lived even with no experience but by the tone of your post I doubt it.





dhaverstick said:


> I agree with what's already been said. Unless you are a gifted athlete, you are going to need a lot of practice to be proficient enough with a bow to ethically hunt any animal. You say you are new to archery, are you also new to hunting? If you are then you have really compounded the issue and made the learning curve a lot steeper. Hunting, in general, and bow hunting, in particular, is not an activity where one decides to participate and then just walks out the door and does it. The technical aspect of the sport needs to be mastered; weapon proficiency, knowing the animal, woodcraft, etc. and the ethical aspect needs to be dealt with; "Can I make a clean kill?", "Do I know what to do with the animal after I've killed it?"
> 
> I've been hunting for over 40 years and I'm still working on getting better at it.
> 
> Darren


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

The suggested bow and weight is a good goal to aspire too. I would get that bow, 30# limbs and start developing your form, strength, coordination etc. and spend the next year growing as an archer...going up in weight about every 3 months (don't go too much too fast). Then be making plans for your hunt next year----scratch any idea of hunting with a recurve this year.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

The Sage is cheap. Like the others have said just get some extra limbs. Not a big deal.

Do note that putting on a better string, made of high performance materials, will add considerable performance to the bow. For the lighter bow you won't have to "lob" them into the target while learning, and on the heavier bow you'll have enough oomph to get through the vitals on a moose. No need for a more expensive rig if you set it up right.


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## zombiesloth79 (May 7, 2015)

Lancaster Archery, in fact, currently has a variety of Sage limbs on closeout right now. I've never been around moose, but I'd imagine I wouldn't want to be anywhere near one I pissed off with a bad shot.


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## benedicus (Aug 20, 2015)

Thanks for the info guys.As one person asked,I am a hunter and have taken moose before with a rifle aswell as other animals with shotgun so the hunting aspect isn't new to me.I have my tags for moose this year aswell,which will be taken with a rifle.I was definately not planning on trying to hunt with a bow right out of the gate,considering where I live,you usually only draw a moose tag every 2 years,I'd have lots of time to practice and develop my skillset.I guess the biggest thing was wanting to make sure that a 55 or 60 lb recurve would be adequate to take down a moose,because it will be nice to use the same bow for both target practise and hunting aswell.In regards to draw weight,would the fact that I'm 6'2 and 280 Lbs,make a difference in what weight I should start off with.


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

Stop thinking about power. Look up the legal hunting weights and go from there. The arrow design and placement will mean more.

Besides, at your specs you will have a longer draw. Free horsepower. Look into the Samick Journey. Start with 30# limbs and move up. Will still cost less than a rifle by the time you're at 50+# :wink:


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## ptgarcia (Apr 3, 2014)

Get the 64" Journey instead of the 62" Sage (same riser, just longer limbs).


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## TREESTANDSNYPER (Jan 17, 2003)

A good quality design, and razor sharp broadheads are equally as important to the equation.


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## TREESTANDSNYPER (Jan 17, 2003)

I would agree with what has already been said and definitely go with the longer length of the Journey with your DL.


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## jlagman (Mar 31, 2015)

Would you all still recommend starting at low draw weight for someone accustomed to shooting compound bows? I get that draw weight stacks and there is no let off in a recurve, but if I can pull 70lbs, with 75% let off, do I really need to start as low as 30lbs?


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## kegan (Aug 28, 2006)

jlagman said:


> Would you all still recommend starting at low draw weight for someone accustomed to shooting compound bows? I get that draw weight stacks and there is no let off in a recurve, but if I can pull 70lbs, with 75% let off, do I really need to start as low as 30lbs?


All the folks I've met who shoot compound can usually do alright with 60% of their peak COMFORTABLE weight. So if someone shoots 75# compound, but is really comfortable at 65#, then 40# is _usually_ alright.


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## Chupacabras (Feb 10, 2006)

You might want to watch this vid before you go on your moose hunt
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a04B1n-0LqE


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## Thin Man (Feb 18, 2012)

I'll temporarily wax hypothetical and philosophical claptrap here. 

Getting this out of the way first: Often the best way to efficiently hurry is to slow down and take your time.

Let's say a compound archer is established, comfortable, and accurate with their bow. They now desire to take up the stickbow and make a smooth and satisfactory transition into established, comfortable, and accurate technique with it as well. One extreme of common sense tells them that they probably can't do this with a stickbow of the same draw weight as their compound. 

I'll speak to the other extreme here. 

Discarding one's physique and its potential, simply note what is already in hand. Let's say that the compound archer is successfully shooting 70# with a 75% let-off. During the several seconds at anchor, hold, aim, and loose, they are holding 17.5#. This is the actual status of affairs involved in making the shot. Getting to that status has been accomplished and is no longer a factor in the shot.

Therefore, this archer is performing the critical and final elements of their shot with a 17.5# bow. This is what they are both comfortable and successful with. 

Remembering that I mentioned that efficient hurry is often best served by taking one's time, and also bearing in mind that I am waxing quite philosophical here (to avoid egg throwing!), it would seem most logical that the initial conversion over to a stickbow would be enhanced by the utilization of a nearly-equal draw weight for their first bow. Let's choose 20# ... a tad over 17.5#. 

The convert, with this weight, can exactly mimic their already established compound technique with a familiar and successfully proven feel throughout the entire shot sequence (absent the compound's hump, of course). Here is where the critical technical conversions can be comfortably made, such as the new draw finger configuration, side of face anchor, upper body alignment adjustments, aiming minus the peep and sight, etc.

These adjustments can be repetitiously hammered into place over weeks or months of practice until the convert is as comfortable with the stickbow as they were with their compound. At this point, the convert will be able to make an experiential decision in choosing the next draw weight they wish to work into. The initial guessing has already been taken out of the equation and solid stickbow technique has been embedded. The next higher draw weight will not be a guess, but rather a logical calculation and prediction with solid experience to back it up. 

This is the other extreme in common sense ... the slow, take your time, approach in order to hurry up and reach your ultimate goals in shooting the stickbow.

Realistically speaking now. 

Well, what I discussed above is certainly realistic, although based upon the exact duplication of draw weight between the current compound's and the new stickbow's. But I do realize that there are compromise points between the two extremes of common sense that are absolutely doable, satisfactory, and successful for many folk. 

My generic take, in light of what I have discussed, is that a new stickbow convert may well give serious consideration to, in some manner, staging towards their desired draw weight by starting light enough (whatever that may be) to hump the initial learning curve quickly and successfully, and then carefully and honestly calculating each next stage upwards ... ranging from multiple stages or, if doable, jumping right into the desired weight ... always armed with an established and satisfactory technical archery shot already under the belt.

This is the brilliant advantage of having at our disposal many very inexpensive and adequate bows that allow for a limb swapping process when necessary. One can become established in the stickbow game with minimal (as it goes) investment, saving those bigger dollars for that down-the-road dream bow without a giving a second thought as to its draw weight, for that has already been established during the staging process.

Merely for the mix, and good luck to all crossing over.


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## bowhuntrmaniac (Jan 22, 2012)

I shot compound with fingers at 64-72# for years. Played with recurves , but could not master a recurve until I dropped down to 45# . Trust me , use that as a guide . A lot less frustration.


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## benedicus (Aug 20, 2015)

Yea,I seen that video before,pretty crazy,buddy is pretty lucky he didn't get trampled or gored with antlers.


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## benedicus (Aug 20, 2015)

Well guys,Thanks for all the advice,appreciate it all,been doing some research on the journey,looking like it could be the bow I go with,with lighter draw weight aswell I think I'm going to upgrade the string,in a lot of video I've watch,people recommended the Fastflight flemish twist.Also as I started earlier,I'dd say I'm going to have a good two years to practice and learn before I go moose hunting with it, maybe even longer,all depends how well I am doing with the bow,as this year's moose hunt will be done with a rifle.Definately going to be checking out the rest of this site for more advise and tips.What would be a good starting distance for target shooting?


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## secretagentmann (Jul 6, 2012)

benedicus said:


> Well guys,Thanks for all the advice,appreciate it all,been doing some research on the journey,looking like it could be the bow I go with,with lighter draw weight aswell I think I'm going to upgrade the string,in a lot of video I've watch,people recommended the Fastflight flemish twist.Also as I started earlier,I'dd say I'm going to have a good two years to practice and learn before I go moose hunting with it, maybe even longer,all depends how well I am doing with the bow,as this year's moose hunt will be done with a rifle.Definately going to be checking out the rest of this site for more advise and tips.What would be a good starting distance for target shooting?


Don't focus on distance.. You'll get into gaping and trying to use points to simulate a compound aiming ideology...
Imo.. And this is how I do it. Might not work for everyone..
Shoot from all different distances..unknown. All unknown distances.
Break yourself of trying to judge a distance by a number and aiming.
Just learn the trajectory of your arrows.. And it will soon become akin to throwing a baseball.
You don't need to know the guy is 20 yards away to throw it to him do you?
You just throw it and it goes to him, it takes practice tho.
In my opinion. Attempting to judge distance and coupling that with an aiming system just puts more strain in the shot sequence.
After a while, you should be able to see your target, determine if you can hit it ethically or not, then shoot and hit it.

Doesn't it sound easier to throw a baseball? Or to attempt to say the guy is x yards away, now point your elbow, about 70% power, 45 degree angle blah blah etc.
Your brain will make all those calculations on it's own without you interfering.


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