# Arrow Size



## Ron Meadows (Aug 17, 2005)

The best of the cheaper alternatives for field arrows have to the the Carbon Express Maxima 3d Selects. I've tried numerous alternatives and keep coming back to them. I'm thinking of getting X-10's or Nanos for next year but that sure is a lot of money to spend..........


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## archerpap (Apr 24, 2006)

ACC's work great.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

Those are totally different queastions :wink:

The biggest you can use is a 2712 size shaft....

The biggest I PERSONALLY would use after shooting what I shoot....a Nano sized shaft. Because I won't shoot anything other then a Nano or X10 now...they simply shoot to good for me to go back now 

But staying under $150...there are a lot of good arrows....I would probably bite the bullet and spend a little more and go with Navigators or Medallions...


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## WCH (Aug 1, 2006)

Thanks for the post guys...what about a shaft with an outside diameter of about .290 or is that still to big at that distance.


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## Welky (Jul 24, 2009)

Reading you're signature and seeing you shoot Goldtip Ultralight Pros, I'd go with them. I use them now when I used to shoot protours, I actually score better with the GTs. The 22 series may let you down with wind drift and drop off at the longer yardages.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

WCH said:


> Thanks for the post guys...what about a shaft with an outside diameter of about .290 or is that still to big at that distance.


Those are fine....plenty of people shoot Maximas, GTs etc.....

just don't shoot those big ole 22s you have.....you will loose some arrows from damage or have a ton of kiss outs....and they aren't good in a wind at the longer distances.

PLUS if your shooting with people with Nanos, X10s, ACEs, Navigators or other expensive skinny shafts your not gonna make any friends sending one of those crashing into a spot with 8 of them already in the target :fear:


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## WCH (Aug 1, 2006)

Brown Hornet said:


> Those are fine....plenty of people shoot Maximas, GTs etc.....
> 
> just don't shoot those big ole 22s you have.....you will loose some arrows from damage or have a ton of kiss outs....and they aren't good in a wind at the longer distances.
> 
> PLUS if your shooting with people with Nanos, X10s, ACEs, Navigators or other expensive skinny shafts your not gonna make any friends sending one of those crashing into a spot with 8 of them already in the target :fear:


Thanks for the tip, I don't want to make people mad shooting a big 22 at some $300 a dozen arrows. I really like my Gold Tips and was thinking about shooting some of them. I really appreciate all the help that has been given so far. The field archery forum is great.


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## rock monkey (Dec 28, 2002)

why are you afraid of 'making people mad' shooting your arrows? people that do get mad about getting arrows busted up when shooting with a good group have more issues than that. it should be understood by ANY and ALL archers that arrows are going to get beat up and some wont survive. it's the nature of the game. if THEY dont like it, THEY can find another hobby.

some people have more money than sense. archery isnt a 'cheap' sport, but you dont have to spend top dollar just to enjoy it. there are plenty of very good scores shot by guys shooting the 'average guy' stuff.


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## WCH (Aug 1, 2006)

rock monkey said:


> why are you afraid of 'making people mad' shooting your arrows? people that do get mad about getting arrows busted up when shooting with a good group have more issues than that. it should be understood by ANY and ALL archers that arrows are going to get beat up and some wont survive. it's the nature of the game. if THEY dont like it, THEY can find another hobby.
> 
> some people have more money than sense. archery isnt a 'cheap' sport, but you dont have to spend top dollar just to enjoy it. there are plenty of very good scores shot by guys shooting the 'average guy' stuff.


That's true, alot of people think they need top dollar stuff I shoot what I thought was good last year on the local level with Radial X Weave Arrows
out of 4 or 5 tournaments all was 4th place finishes in ASA, I was very happy with that.


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

R Monkey.... You know what I am talking about. 

If your shooting X Cutters or some other fat shaft....and you are in a group with guys shooting normal field arrows.... ACCs, ACEs, Navs, X10, Nanos, or even GT Pros or Maxmas etc....your gonna be trashing others arrows up....getting kiss outs....not only on your self but making others have them as well if you shoot worth a damn at all.

It has zero to do with being mad about not expecting to damage any shafts or components....anyone that has shot with me knows I don't give a rats assss when I break a shaft, pin or even have an oppsss and send one over the target. I am gonna break shafts....I know that. It's part of the fun of the game....but how many arrows do you think your gonna take back home with you if I am on the bale with you shooting in the 530s shooting 2213-2512s? Not many....

They are also gonna cost the person shooting them plenty of points.....

If your gonna play the game....and have other arrows that are MUCH better suited for the "game" I would use them.......that doesn't mean go out and buy X10s either.


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## archerpap (Apr 24, 2006)

I've probaly done more damage to my own arrows when shooting with a group, and some of the groups I've shoot with are Hoyt pro staffers. I find I smash more protours at 25 yards and under, then having 8 arrows in each dot at 35YDS, or 16 at 60YDS.


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## rock monkey (Dec 28, 2002)

it's part of the game.

it's along the same lines as shooting a blacked out arrow in 3D. show up with one and watch the whiners howl in stereo

me personally, i shoot an arrow that is appropriate to the game. fat arrows indoors, 2213's for indoor fita. outdoors will be the nano forces or cae phantoms. if somoene was in my group shooting larger arrows, i wouldnt cry foul, its just the way it is. there's no rules requiring specific sized arrows for certain venues, just maximum size for FITA being 9.3mm/2215 and NFAA being 27 series.

if i was in a group that was concerned about my arrows and preferred that i shoot first, ok....no big deal.

archers must understand that there are goods and bads with all choices in the equipment. smaller arrows give a smaller profile for coincidental strikes, but they also can work against you when you have a real close one. bigger arrows will give you the line cutting but increase the strike factor. arrows are going to hit arrows, it's all part of the game. learn to balance the pro&cons of your equipment to maximize it's results for you.

smaller arrows present a lower cross section that minimizes wind drift. now, how often will you experience a wind factor in the woods on a field course?, that is one of the things to balance in your decision.

they make more arrows every day.



i'm waiting for someone to ask which color is more accurate. it never ceases to amaze at how hard it is for someone to pick a color.



Brown Hornet said:


> R Monkey.... You know what I am talking about.
> 
> If your shooting X Cutters or some other fat shaft....and you are in a group with guys shooting normal field arrows.... ACCs, ACEs, Navs, X10, Nanos, or even GT Pros or Maxmas etc....your gonna be trashing others arrows up....getting kiss outs....not only on your self but making others have them as well if you shoot worth a damn at all.
> 
> ...


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## MO Hawkeye (Apr 12, 2008)

*Which color is more accurate?!?*

Which color is more accurate ... I've always thought I need to know.

Thanks,ukey:

Paul


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## rock monkey (Dec 28, 2002)

ooops, i found a mistake......in max size for FITA, its 9.3mm/2315, not 2215.

my bad :doh:


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## MO Hawkeye (Apr 12, 2008)

MO Hawkeye said:


> Which color is more accurate ... I've always thought I need to know.
> 
> Thanks,ukey:
> 
> Paul


Sorry, I couldn't resist:embara:


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## field14 (May 21, 2002)

Myself, The largest outdoor diameter I ever shot in competition for field/hunter is the 1914. Most often, however, when shooting aluminums, the 1714 was my choice.

Nowadaze, however...the CORRECTLY SPINED and AFFORDABLE arrow is my choice...and FOR ME...that is the Gold Tip arrows, either the ULPro 500's or the ProHunter 35/55's...funny...but the outside diameter is very close to what I always shot in my 1714's.

I have some CAA 500's that shoot very well indeed. However, I cannot afford, nor would I buy them if I could, the teeny X-10's, Nano's or the like.

If people want to Cry the blues when I shoot my GT ULPro 500's, so be it...they are correctly spined, tough, affordable, and group the best and most consistent FOR ME.

I also wouldn't hesitate to use my 22 series GT either...if the course is out of the wind. They work just great for field shooting and 3-D as well. STIFF...but they seem to do just fine. Once again...MY CHOICE and not the choice of the others.'

I remember very often in the past shooting my 1714's...and other guys were shooting 2112, 2114, 2216, 2312's...and NOBODY howled about it then....It is THEIR CHOICE...you know the stakes going in, and the shafts are LEGAL. If they work the best for you...then fine.

Glance outs/offs...are ALWAYS a potential problem and always will be...pin nocks to make things a bit tougher...TO ROBIN HOOD, hahahaha.

field14 (Tom D.)


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

Jesus H Christ......


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## archerpap (Apr 24, 2006)

What's the H stand for?


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## PA.JAY (May 26, 2004)

archerpap said:


> What's the H stand for?


good question . I'll look it up .. done ( The H stands for Harold, as in, "Our Father, who art in heaven, Harold be thy name" )


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## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

Heck if I know.... my mom used to say it when people were being ridiculous :chortle:


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## archerpap (Apr 24, 2006)

I thought you may have some inside info that the big guy shoots a Hoyt, and just went by H for short....we know it couldnt be for Hinky???


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## welder1 (Jan 25, 2008)

I've seen some excellent rounds shot with Easton Lightspeeds.


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