# Rangefinders for Field



## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

I am just curious who carries a rangefinder to check target distances when shooting???? If so does yours have a clinometer built in and which brand do you use?? I am ready to drop some cha-ching on one that will be used for field and when archery hunting but would like some opinions first, I know there are some here  I was leaning towards a Leupold 800 DNA with TBR but have heard a couple things that make me want to check around. Thoughts???


----------



## treeman65 (Nov 24, 2005)

I have been using the nikons you a couple years without any problem
They do have the angle mode too


----------



## bassbusta01 (Jan 23, 2009)

I was just in your shoes a month ago and had the nikon archers choice max and that leupold 1000 dna and talked to a lot of archers and made my choice based off the info given to me and went withe archers choice max could not be happier hands down dead spot on accuracy.


----------



## treeman65 (Nov 24, 2005)

bassbusta01 said:


> I was just in your shoes a month ago and had the nikon archers choice max and that leupold 1000 dna and talked to a lot of archers and made my choice based off the info given to me and went withe archers choice max could not be happier hands down dead spot on accuracy.


I have checked Nikon archers choice with tape measure and always dead on


----------



## str8arrow (Jul 25, 2002)

I'm currently useing a Nikon Archers Choice and love it. Ray make sure you sight into you range finder!


----------



## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

Thanks Terry


----------



## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

I don't have one but have used a BUNCH of different ones....the Nikon's are DEAD nuts. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## edgerat (Dec 14, 2011)

I own a Nikon and I use it on every peg. I have witnessed as much as a two yard difference in the distance on the peg and the distance on my rangefinder.


----------



## blade37defender (Jun 8, 2005)

I have a good ol' trusty Nikon Pro Staff 440 that I've used for 7 or 8 years. Only replaced the batteries once and I'm finally getting low battery again. Anyhow, whatever range finder you get, make sure to sight your bow in to it! As far as a clinometer, I'm just getting into field this year and can't wait for the shoots to get started. Hopefully it doesn't bite me too much but our ground around here is relatively flat.


----------



## field14 (May 21, 2002)

blade37defender said:


> I have a good ol' trusty Nikon Pro Staff 440 that I've used for 7 or 8 years. Only replaced the batteries once and I'm finally getting low battery again. Anyhow, whatever range finder you get, make sure to sight your bow in to it! As far as a clinometer, I'm just getting into field this year and can't wait for the shoots to get started. Hopefully it doesn't bite me too much but our ground around here is relatively flat.


Make yourself a slant board so that you can practice shooting with one foot above or below the other and toes pointing uphill and/or toes pointing downhill...you do NOT have to shoot on a steep course to at least get used to how YOU react to this footing and body problem and help you to determine that exacting draw length needed for uphill and downhill shooting outdoors.

ProActive Archery deals with this in detail. Also don't forget to learn how to "read" a target before you even rangefind it.....not all targets "shoot" how the rangefinders might say they should or could.


----------



## blade37defender (Jun 8, 2005)

field14 said:


> Make yourself a slant board so that you can practice shooting with one foot above or below the other and toes pointing uphill and/or toes pointing downhill...you do NOT have to shoot on a steep course to at least get used to how YOU react to this footing and body problem and help you to determine that exacting draw length needed for uphill and downhill shooting outdoors.
> 
> ProActive Archery deals with this in detail. Also don't forget to learn how to "read" a target before you even rangefind it.....not all targets "shoot" how the rangefinders might say they should or could.


My problem isn't footing...I'm talking about the rate of incline/decline from me to the target.


----------



## archerpap (Apr 24, 2006)

Nikon 440 and a Suunto Inclinometer. Feel safer with this than the Luepold 1000i.


----------



## mag41vance (Mar 13, 2008)

blade37defender said:


> My problem isn't footing...I'm talking about the rate of incline/decline from me to the target.


Footing is every archers problem. What he is saying, many times people's DL changes because of angles and what people read into statements like ; "2 inches high, I should have cut that" is a shot that wasn't pulled into the wall of the draw like your level shot sequence. Creep tuning is a must for field archers. Putting a couple of reference servings tied to the cable and string at eye height gives you a DL reference. 
Cuts are neccessary, but you better be drawing to the same spot on every angle or oops, 2" high or 4" high perhaps(that's the footing DL issue)
Isn't it funny how the angle targets are rarly a low miss. Hmmm. :wink:
F14 knows what he's saying. :thumbs_up

now for some thick black


----------



## blade37defender (Jun 8, 2005)

mag41vance said:


> Footing is every archers problem. What he is saying, many times people's DL changes because of angles and what people read into statements like ; "2 inches high, I should have cut that" is a shot that wasn't pulled into the wall of the draw like your level shot sequence. Creep tuning is a must for field archers. Putting a couple of reference servings tied to the cable and string at eye height gives you a DL reference.
> Cuts are neccessary, but you better be drawing to the same spot on every angle or oops, 2" high or 4" high perhaps(that's the footing DL issue)
> Isn't it funny how the angle targets are rarly a low miss. Hmmm. :wink:
> F14 knows what he's saying. :thumbs_up
> ...


Ahh ok. I get what you both are saying and will work on that today. Coming from so much 3d in my background I just thought he was talking about weird stances that cause you to be off balance. Anyhow I certainly appreciate the advice!


----------



## FS560 (May 22, 2002)

Uphill and downhill shooting positions will cause balance difficulty if you have not practiced for it.

There are level shots where you may be standing uphill or downhill. Will your inclinometer tell you how to shoot these.

Also there are uphill/downhill shots with a side hill grade that will change your cut so that your inclinometer instructed cut will be incorrect. Some will simply blame it on the inclinometer.

You have to practice uphill/downhill/sidehill and bad footing shots and also read the arrow holes in the target from groups having already shot the target.

Gadgets are nice but they do not trump practice under less than optimum conditions.


----------



## mag41vance (Mar 13, 2008)

and , yes I have one, and use it on occasion. :becky:


----------



## Moparmatty (Jun 23, 2003)

My Bushnell ARC 1000 works perfectly.


----------



## RatherBArchery (Oct 31, 2006)

are you even shooting Matty?? If so bring another crew down for 'Insteada', I want my crispy(s) back


----------



## treeman65 (Nov 24, 2005)

RatherBArchery said:


> are you even shooting Matty?? If so bring another crew down for 'Insteada', I want my crispy(s) back


hmmm crispys been awhile for them all the 3d shooters turn into fun suckers.


----------



## Moparmatty (Jun 23, 2003)

RatherBArchery said:


> are you even shooting Matty?? If so bring another crew down for 'Insteada', I want my crispy(s) back


Shooting? What's that?


----------



## field14 (May 21, 2002)

FS560 said:


> Uphill and downhill shooting positions will cause balance difficulty if you have not practiced for it.
> 
> There are level shots where you may be standing uphill or downhill. Will your inclinometer tell you how to shoot these.
> 
> ...


Good Job, Jim! Calling it like it is for real out on the field courses! 
Sure, the electronics offer some "help" for inexperienced field shooters, but nothing will replace the practice for bad footing or inclines, or knowing how to read a given target from the arrow holes and from personal experiences obtained from shooting similar targets on other courses. That doesn't come by trusting electronics to cure all ills. There are targets out there on field courses that "look" like they'll shoot dead on or will need a cut...when in reality, due to anomalies, you have to shoot them "differently" from what the inclinometer says they should be shot. Then comes the "how well can you hold steady" under less than ideal conditions...no practice = poor results.

A person, with ingenuity, can actually practice the bad footing even out on what seems like a flat course! You can practice "cuts" and also learn how YOUR bow shoots by intentionally mis-setting the sight and shooting groups to determine the impact points of plus or minus 1/2, yard, a full yard, etc. Too many shooters get all caught up with the electronics and practicing for score all the time and never take the time to be ProActive and learn how THEY shoot and how THEIR equipment shoots based upon different circumstances and conditions that are way less than "ideal."
Most don't know how THEY are affected by toes up or toes down, or front foot higher than back foot(or the reverse), and haven't a clue how THEY react to windy conditions, poor lighting, etc. Too busy practicing ideal conditions, settings and other such stuff...and when those conditions aren't ideal...their scores drop like a rock...electronics become pretty useless at that point.
There was an 80 yarder on one of the courses up on Sugar Hill that "looked" flat as a pancake and "level" too. However, if you took the time to read the target based upon arrow holes...that 80 yarder shoots long, and it also shoots to the right. If you set your site for 80 yards and hold dead level...you would likely get a wide and low "4" if you were lucky, but more than likely, you would get a nice fat "3" at 4 o'clock! There are other targets up on the Hill and in other places that "read" differently than what the electronics are going to give you as "information", too.


----------



## Brown Hornet (Aug 8, 2002)

Rangefinders are also great to use so that you can actually sight in and be dialed in correctly and then shoot your tape correctly. 

Not all practice ranges are measured correctly....so say your club or range has a 50 yd target that is actually 48 or even 51....set your tape with a rangefinder....now when your on another course you can range the target and shoot it best for your marks since you sighted in with it. 

Wether you can handle the up hills and downhills or the footing is another story. You can read the target but say your shooting The Hill....get to the 80 yd walk up and if there are high arrow holes you know you need to cut it but is it a 2 yd cut or 4 yd cut? Most of the high holes on that target are from people that aren't gonna hit the dot if you tell them the cut or move them closer anyway. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## FoggDogg (Jul 9, 2002)

Live by this rule...

Never leave home without your rangefinder. Simple as that.


----------



## Moparmatty (Jun 23, 2003)

FoggDogg said:


> Live by this rule...
> 
> Never leave home without your rangefinder. Simple as that.


Exactly.


----------



## srt8asanarrow (Oct 30, 2012)

I bought a red field 550 last year. Couldn't be happier. I used it with others that have Nikon. And I am showing the same distance. I spent less to

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Mestang99 (Jan 10, 2013)

I just got the Leupold Full Draw and I like it so far. Very fast and accurate. Actually it is instant. It has the Inclinometer included. The only 2 complaints I would have are: I would rather have red numbers and I would like a bit larger zoom. I wish someone could make a compact range finder that could remove the need for binos...


----------

