# My DIY sight light. Thanks to all who have posted ideas before me.



## butadol (Dec 26, 2013)

Here are some more pictures.


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## Green River (May 13, 2006)

I never figured out the $100 sight light thing either. I recently spoke to a gentalman that had a $135 light LOL! Maybe they are worth it but I'm just not seeing the advantage...lot's on gimicks in the archery and hunting industry. BTW post up the parts list and cost.


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## midwestbow (Jan 2, 2014)

nice job!


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## Big D UpNorth (May 24, 2007)

Very nice job. Could you post part numbers for the stuff from radio shack? How big is the box that houses the battery and rheostat? If it is the box I am thinking of it is on the big side, wonder if it could be done with a single AA battery and possibly a rheostat that has built in on/off in the dial.


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## klemsontigers7 (Jul 1, 2008)

Nice. Does this screw into the sight so that it lights the end of the fibers opposite from the pins?


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## butadol (Dec 26, 2013)

Here is the part list:

Miscellaneous items: Wire, soldering gun, solder, Candle wax (Ill Explain), Shrink tubing (electrical tape would work too but not as clean looking), needle nose pliers, wire strippers, scissors, 5/16 drill bit, 1/4 drill bit and the light off my sword sight. 

Project Enclosure 3x2x1 - 270-1801 $3.19
270ohm Resistor - 271-1112 $1.49 For 5
PC Board toggle Switch - 275-0645 $3.49
UV Led - 276-014 $1.99 for 2
9v Battery Snap Connector - 275-324 $2.99 for 5
5k - ohm Linear Taper POT - 271-1714 $3.49
Total $16.64 + tax

I first took the light off of my sight and removed the sleeve that holds the batteries and removed the led as well. I went with a 5mm Led and it was much bigger than the original so I had to do some modification. The sleeve that holds the battery I had to trim down to fit the new light. I also took a very small drill bit and drilled another hole in the top to fit the leads on the led. I then took the open end and pressed it into a candle to fill it with wax, this was to keep the led firm in place after installed back into the housing. I then took the bottom half of the light housing and drilled a small hole to fit 2 wires. 

I then started soldering all mo connections, all the while confirming that it works. Once I had the switch, resistor, pot switch and battery wired in (using shrink tubing to cover all connections) I drilled a 5/16 hole for the POT and a 1/4 inch for the toggle and installed them into the box. It was a tight fit but everything fits very snugly. I then ran my 2 wires out of the box to the led and connected it. I screwed the light housing together and attached to the sight. I then took a piece of double sided foam tape and put on my sight bar to dampen the noise and then used zip ties to secure it to the bar. 

The dimming feature is really nice, it goes super low to VERY bright. but there is a lot of adjustment in there. 

It is very sturdy on there and has no vibration noise yet. I plan to shoot today.


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## butadol (Dec 26, 2013)

klemsontigers7 said:


> Nice. Does this screw into the sight so that it lights the end of the fibers opposite from the pins?


I used the light that came with the sight, I just modified it to fit the wiring and new led. It looks exactly as it did originally just with wires coming fro the bottom.


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## butadol (Dec 26, 2013)

Big D UpNorth said:


> Very nice job. Could you post part numbers for the stuff from radio shack? How big is the box that houses the battery and rheostat? If it is the box I am thinking of it is on the big side, wonder if it could be done with a single AA battery and possibly a rheostat that has built in on/off in the dial.


I am no electrical engineer, but the guy at my radio shack had an app he put all the parts into to see what would perform the best for that led. I am sure if you want a smaller housing you could make it work with a small battery, I just do not know if these parts will work.


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## Richard932 (Jul 6, 2010)

tagged for later.


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## Nitrous24 (Jul 16, 2012)

This is great tagged for later. I might just have to retro fit my indoor sight since my indoor season in over.


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## mase (Feb 21, 2003)

Tagged


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## Big D UpNorth (May 24, 2007)

I found some smaller cases but as mentioned I do not think the parts would fit. I am going to try one though.


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## bill_collector (Jul 5, 2009)

Tagged


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## Chase Hatcher (Jan 30, 2012)

I did the same except I could find a theist at at RadioShack


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

yes sir that's a nice one!


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## jbacon1340 (Oct 29, 2013)

Can you explain that process a little slower for someone that has never attempted anything like this before?


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## bows_-_arrows (Oct 19, 2010)

Ttt
Ttt


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## Covurt (Nov 14, 2012)

Pretty neat! I've been working on smething similar that will let me light up individual pins, selectable via switches. It works so far in theory. Hopefully I can get it all finished and try it out on the bow this week.


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## DaneHunter (Jul 6, 2013)

Not trying to bash. .. but the sight light on my copper John it's smaller than a AA battery and super bright. Wouldn't it be easier to try and modify the sight to accept something along those lines?


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## 3D JOE (Aug 28, 2012)

tagged


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## Bad Juju (Jun 14, 2013)

I think this is about NOT replacing the tiny batteries every second time you use your pin light.
At least thats the advantage I can see.

Cheers


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## Covurt (Nov 14, 2012)

DaneHunter said:


> Not trying to bash. .. but the sight light on my copper John it's smaller than a AA battery and super bright. Wouldn't it be easier to try and modify the sight to accept something along those lines?


If you are refering to me, that won't work for my intended goal.


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## bill_collector (Jul 5, 2009)

Whats some ideas on how to connect the led end to the end of your fibers? Like instead of the light hitting them from the side, have it where the light was channeled to the end of the fibers. I did this with a photon light that has the covert nose on it. I took some shrink wrap that fit over the nose on the light and some that fit over the fiber tube and basically welded the shrink wrap together. My problem is, I don't think the photon is putting out enough light for me. I wanted to try this method but I'm unsure of how to secure it in the same manner.


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## Covurt (Nov 14, 2012)

I just use tape and some shrink tubing.


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

bill_collector said:


> Whats some ideas on how to connect the led end to the end of your fibers? Like instead of the light hitting them from the side, have it where the light was channeled to the end of the fibers. I did this with a photon light that has the covert nose on it. I took some shrink wrap that fit over the nose on the light and some that fit over the fiber tube and basically welded the shrink wrap together. My problem is, I don't think the photon is putting out enough light for me. I wanted to try this method but I'm unsure of how to secure it in the same manner.


Does your Photon have a UV LED?


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## bill_collector (Jul 5, 2009)

It has the blue led. I thought that was the only one that would work?


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

Find an LED with a UV light. That's what OEM lights have, and it will make a big difference in pin brightness. I'm pretty sure photon makes one if that's the form you want to stick with.


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## jbacon1340 (Oct 29, 2013)

Tell me as if you were talking to a person that has never touched a soldering iron. The positive goes where and negative goes where and the resistor goes between what and what. The rest I can get together.


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## bill_collector (Jul 5, 2009)

I've got an idea that may eliminate the toggle switch and the pot with the big stud sticking out of it. What if you used one of those radio pots that clicks when it turns on and you go up in brightness from there. I want to put a small red led on the side of mine also that lets me know its on or off.


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## dw'struth (Mar 14, 2008)

For this application, what is the difference between using a 5k POT and a 50k POT? I ended up with the 50k, but I'm not sure that is best....
I'll try to get a pic or two of mine on here if I get a chance. Thanks.


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## bill_collector (Jul 5, 2009)

Thought I would post this link. You can't get all the parts from the same web site but their considerably cheaper than radio shack.


http://www.surplus-electronics-sale...g_cart&zenid=69f6b834f4f195fb031c1374506257da


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## Ohbowhunter815 (Jul 19, 2010)

I would consider making one, but would any of you electrical circuit wizards know if you could get a circuit board or something with a timer to turn light off after a given amount of time?


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## jbacon1340 (Oct 29, 2013)

Here is what mine looks like.


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## jbacon1340 (Oct 29, 2013)

This unit is pretty bulky, I will be buying connections for a cr123, aa, and aaa batteries. To see if I can get it all into a smaller box, also I am going to a slider style pot with push button switch


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

I made mine with a 9v battery and was concerned about bulk. I put some double sided Velcro on the battery (soft side out) and wrapped regular Velcro around my riser (soft side in to not scratch riser) and locate it where my 9v leads can reach it. The pot switch I covered in shrink and attach it to my sight bar, hardly any bulk. The other day I noticed I had left my light on for 2 straight days, no sign of dimming, and this after at least a year of competitions!


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## jbacon1340 (Oct 29, 2013)

Jrdrees, do you have pictures of your setup?


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## Jona (Mar 20, 2014)

Nice


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## mattmejean (Oct 5, 2011)

How did Yuri ou get the led to stay centered in the old light?


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## mattmejean (Oct 5, 2011)

Ive been looking for ways to attach the light to the site.. I can find anything threaded that fits leds in my area


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## jbacon1340 (Oct 29, 2013)

Who are you talking to? Because it depends on the sight. Some of mine will recieve the LED holder and others need a threaded end


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## mattmejean (Oct 5, 2011)

All really. I can't find anything to hold a led. Threaded or non threaded.


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

jbacon1340 said:


> Jrdrees, do you have pictures of your setup?


Hey, just ran across this... not trying to dodge. I'll try to post a pic soon.


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## mibowhunter2094 (Sep 8, 2008)

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