# Starter recurve bow?



## darksteelwing (Apr 26, 2012)

Hello!

I’m trying to get into archery, and need some guidance on purchasing my first recurve bow. I'm 5'8", with a 27" draw length. I’m interested in both target archery and bowhunting. I can spend ~$300-400.

I want to start with target shooting, so I’m looking at getting a 23” Hoyt Excel with 30# medium limbs, for a 66” bow. If I use shorter (and heavier) limbs on the riser, would my bow be suitable for hunting?

The target limbs I'm looking at are Samick Privilege, Sebastian Flute Axiom, or TradTech Black Max. Is there possibly a better shooting rig I can buy for this price range?

Also, what string material is optimal? 8190, 8125, D97, TS-1, Angel Majesty? Something else?

And what plunger, bow stringer, and arrows would you guys recommend?

Sorry for all the questions, and thanks in advance!


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## m013690 (Sep 3, 2011)

Somebody really ought to make this a sticky at the top of the list. Viper1 has compiled an excellent list that I'm sure almost all of us have used, recommended, reposted or referenced in some other way at some time or another. But, here ya go. Viper knows what he's talking about, so you won't go wrong following his advice:

Equipment check list for a new Olympic shooter
Bow –
These days, I’m hard pressed to recommend anything other than an ILF rig. The functionality, versatility and tuneability can not be matched with any one piece or simple takedown bow. Most adult males should start in the 30# or less range AT THEIR DRAW LENGTH.
Risers –
The 23” Hoyt Excel ILF riser is an excellent choice if a lightweight single beam riser is desired The 21” Excel is better suited for young archers or archers with short draw lengths. The 25” Hoyt Eclipse is a larger, heavier, “TEC” or braced riser. Unfortunately, Hoyt discontinued the Eclipse in 2011, but it is still available through some dealers and on the used market.
The 25” Hoyt Horizon was introduced in 2011 and is basically a longer version of the Excel with lateral limb adjustments and a removable clicker plate. There are a number of older (discontinued) Hoyt risers on the used market as well. The venerable Gold Medalist is one example.
The KAP T-Rex riser and Samick Candidate are less expensive alternatives, but it’s my opinion they do not have the same feeling or ease of use as the Hoyt risers.
Limbs –
The Hoyt Excel limbs are a good choice, as are older Hoyt models. Stick to wood core limbs with fiberglass or carbon surfaces, as carbon core limbs provide no advantage to beginner or intermediate shooters.
The KAP T-Rex limbs are arguably the best deal on the market today. They can be purchased for around $80 and will shoot as well as the higher priced limbs for new and intermediate level shooters. Most of my new shooters use them. Comparable limbs are the Samick Privilege and Sebastian Flute Axiom limbs.
Limb length (short, medium or long) depends on draw length. Most people with a 28” draw should opt for a 66” – 68” bow for the first time out. Archer’s with draw lengths under 26” should consider short limbs, and those with a draw length over 29” might need long limb on a 25” riser.
Strings –
A 14 strand D97 of the appropriate length will handle any weight from 20# - 50# and provide perfect nock fit when used with a .020” serving and small groove “G” nocks (see below). Having a spare string is also good idea.
Bow stringers –
Bateman or Cartel bow stringer.
Rests –
Best – Cavalier/AAE Champion II. It’s fully adjustable and bulletproof. Budget – WW / Kap Magnetic Partner rest
Plunger –
Best – Cavalier/AAE Master Plunger. The short plunger will work on most applications. Budget – Cartel Super plunger
Slings –
A WRIST sling is preferable, as it is the most convenient and foolproof, but finger or bow slings can be used initially.
Revised 2/2011 Courtesy of www.shootingthestickbow.com
Equipment check list for a new Olympic shooter
Stabilizer –
Cartel X-Pert or Midas approx. 28” long. Get extra end weights. Stabilizers have gotten very expensive in the last few years. Since they basically are an extension tube to hold an end weight, you can do very well on eBay searching for old style tapered aluminum stabilizers.
Sights –
Do NOT scrimp on a sight! A good sight should last as long as your bow. Best – Sure-Loc Contender-X. Sights from Shibuya or Cartel in the $200 range are very serviceable as well.
Sight Apertures –
While most sights come with apertures, most are less than optimal. More user-friendly apertures can be obtained from your local hardware store by combining nylon spacers and a 3” 8-32 threaded rod. I prefer an inside diameter of 3/8” – 1 /2” for new shooters.
Clickers –
Should not be used by new shooters, but you will need one later on. Best – Beiter Clicker Budget – Cartel Clicker Special case – In the event that longer than standard arrows are necessary, sight-mounted clickers such as the Cavalier/AAE Magnetic clicker can be used.
Bow cases –
Several hard cases are available from Neet, SKB and Aurora, as well as soft cases/duffel bag type cases from Cartel, Hoyt, etc.
Arrows –
Best – Easton Platinum Plus arrows with NIBB points and small groove “G” nocks, and 3” feathers. Budget – Easton Blues or Jazz arrows with glue-in target points and 1 /4” glue-on nocks, and 3” feathers.
Quiver –
Personal choice The Neet target quiver is a long-time standard and very economical. Offerings from Cartel and Hoyt/Easton are optional but can be pricey.
Tabs –
Cavalier/AAE Elite – Sorry, no options on this one. The tab size is based on the width, not the length.
Arm guard – Any one you like, just keep it simple! (Yes, you’ll need one.)
Chest Protector –
Yes, you will need one sooner or later. Neet makes a very affordable one, and no, one size does not fit all!
Accessories –
Nocking points, bow squares, etc can be fabricated from some household items or borrowed from the local range or club.


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## m013690 (Sep 3, 2011)

Oh, forgot to mention, in the places he references the "KAP T-Rex" line, that is now the W&W/Sebastien Flute Axiom line.


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## skunklover (Aug 4, 2011)

Alright. I'm going to try to answer all of these.

Your riser choice is not bad, there are other risers out there though. SF Premium is a good beginner riser, in 25" though.
Limbs, I would say that 30# limbs would come out to about 28lbs on your draw length, which I personally think is too high. A pair of 26lb or 28lbs limbs would let you get your form down. The Samick Privilege is a good beginner limb. So is the SF Axiom. Not so sure about the BlackMax.
String material, 8125 is pretty common, so is D97 and Majesty. They'll all work, but D97 is the cheapest, and really can't go wrong as a beginner string.
Plunger: Shibuya DX, it's a bit more than the Cartel offerings, but it's a high quality piece of gear that will last you. 
Stringer: any one will do, even the Cartel ones. Don't spend too much on this.
Arrows: Aluminums. Easton Jazz/Blues/Platinum Plus in the appropriate spine, left full length for now.

Yup. Viper1 has a good recommendation list that really should be a sticky.


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## larcher90 (Dec 8, 2010)

Why do many people looking for their first riser say that they're looking at 23" risers? Unless I've missed that these people are younger or really short, I feel like lots of people go for 23" rather than the standard 25", which would allow them to get a reasonable riser (WinstarII-type) and build up the rest of the bow (nice limbs, nice sight...) before needing to replace the riser, rather than getting a 23" riser and needing to get a 25" one when they're starting to upgrade.


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## darksteelwing (Apr 26, 2012)

@m013690 - Thank you, that is a wealth of information! The range I shoot at provides tabs and arm guards, and I have a DIY quiver. If I plan on shooting barebow, do I still need a clicker, stabilizer, and sights? 

@skunklover - Thank you very much! Are there any other risers/limbs around this price range that you can recommend? And alright, I'll get Easton aluminum arrows. But how do I know the appropriate length for them?

@larcher90 - I'd like to use my bow for hunting as well as target shooting. I don't want a 25" riser because I don't think walking through the woods with a 70" bow would work well... (but correct me if I'm wrong, and I should just go with a 25" riser)

Also, will the Hoyt Super Rest do?


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

dark -

For a cruiser length (both target and hunting) bow the 23" Hoyt Excel riser and medium limbs (66" bow will be a good start. While 30# at your draw length is a good starting point, my students who have started even lower typically do better, faster. After 3 - 6 months, they are ready to go heavier. 

While a 70" bow may not be the best thing to hunt with, it's possible, but a lot depends on the terrain and how you hunt.

Viper1 out.


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## darksteelwing (Apr 26, 2012)

Ah, so a bow length that's fit for both target and hunting is called cruiser length? Thank you!

So.. 
23" Hoyt Excel riser.
26# medium-length Samick Privilege limbs.
D97 string. 
Easton aluminum arrows.
Hoyt Super Rest.
Shibuya DX plunger.
Cartel stringer.
Tab, arm guard, and quiver covered.

Would that do?


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## elan (Nov 6, 2009)

+ shibuya dual click sight


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## hooktonboy (Nov 21, 2007)

darksteelwing said:


> Ah, so a bow length that's fit for both target and hunting is called cruiser length? Thank you!
> 
> So..
> 23" Hoyt Excel riser.
> ...


Sounds like a great starting set-up for barebow to me. The only thing I might add is some sort of barebow-type weight to counterbalance the riser (not a stabiliser) - most target risers like the Excel tend to be "top-heavy" when set up - some kind of a weight will stop the top limb tipping backwards after the shot. Not essential though... Arrows, if you can I'd specifically go for Easton Platinum Plus because the nocks are push-fit so interchangeable more easily.



elan said:


> + shibuya dual click sight


... is great - but not for barebow of course 

Hoyt super rest will be fine.

Will the rig be good for hunting? No idea - we can't bow-hunt over here. I would have thought that for hunting you'd want more power?


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## skunklover (Aug 4, 2011)

Looks like a good barebow rig. If you're going into sights, a simple longrod at some point may be in order. Perhaps one of the Cartel ones. This will help you generate a correct bow reaction upon shooting. This is completely impractical for hunting however.


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## skunklover (Aug 4, 2011)

Arrow length is based on your draw length, You're going to want to have a pro shop check that for you.


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## darksteelwing (Apr 26, 2012)

@hooktonboy - Yeah, I would switch to 45# limbs when hunting, and most likely add a sight/stabilizer. I just don't want to start with a sight+stabilizer and end up relying too much on them.
@skunklover - Okay, so if I have a 27" draw length, my arrows will just be 27"?

Thank you so much for your help by the way, everyone!


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## m013690 (Sep 3, 2011)

You probably want longer arrows than your estimated draw length. It's highly likely that once you start learning to shoot the right way with proper form your draw length will change. It could shorten, but it could just as likely lengthen, and you can't add to your arrows once you've cut them. Even if you feel pretty confident that your draw length is 27", I'd still advise you leave the shafts full length, but at a minimum, probably 29" to be sure you don't waste the money on arrows that end up too short. You could always take them to a shop later on and have them trimmed a 1/2" at a time as your form settles in.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

dark -

m is correct. with 26# limbs you're looking at 1616s or 1716s for starters and leave then full length (s/b about 29"). Both should be tunable or at least shoot-able. 

Viper1 out.


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## skunklover (Aug 4, 2011)

Yup, m and Viper are correct.


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## darksteelwing (Apr 26, 2012)

Thank you, guys! I'll get the rig and start shooting!


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