# How to Remove Easton FMJ & Axis HIT Arrow Inserts



## jnettrecker (Mar 16, 2012)

Just thought I would post a link to the video I made from my nightmare of an experience. Short answer, the inserts can be removed and it isn't too hard, just gotta use the right stuff. Hope it helps someone out!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJnbY1MfyMs


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## dwm01 (Apr 2, 2008)

the heat is going to weaken your carbon shaft and could make it DANGEROUS to shoot them!


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## jnettrecker (Mar 16, 2012)

Based on my test the carbon is 100% and show no signs of weakening whatsoever. The key is to not get it too hot.


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## John Wayne (Dec 27, 2006)

you could also use an small metal rod like you can get at most farm stores. slid it in the tail end and slam it home. if it will not come out just use a litle bit if heat on a feild tip and then repeat.


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## dillon.turpin (Feb 25, 2010)

Use a little torch and leave your practice tip in it. Heat your practice up which will cause the glue to melt again and it will pull right out. I do it all the time and it won't hurt your arrow


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## GWFH (Jan 22, 2006)

first off, thanks for taking the time and effort to post your method
but.......


dwm01 said:


> the heat is going to weaken your carbon shaft and could make it DANGEROUS to shoot them!


sorry, gotta go with this guy^^^

Dont care what anyone says, but the temp it takes to break most of these epoxy and "super" glues is way past what the arrow was meant to handle. 
It will break down and fail, probably on a target but the chance it happening on the bow is not one Im going to risk.

This is the main reason I dont care for HIT inserts. You have to use a high strength glue so the sidewall keeps it in place vs a shoulder that allows the end of the shaft to support it.
I dont care to use anything but low temp soft melt on any arrows, and I even had luck with it on HIT arrows (didnt use them long enough for the test of time and repeated impact).
I love the idea of HITs, eliminating two surfaces out of the alignment game, but I hate the "one time use" on installing.

I have no problem being vocal about this because it goes beyond self risk. When you stand on the line at a range, you put the guys (and kids) standing next to you at risk.....for doing something a company tells you not to do, for good reasons. Carbon bond fails when overheating, and this method has no control over isolating the insert heat from the shaft (go stick a thermocouple on the back of the insert thru the nock end and tell us what it reads).
Again, thanks for taking the time to try and help others.....but I dont think this is a safe method to share.
Couldnt say it any other way without sounding like a dick.


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## jnettrecker (Mar 16, 2012)

My experience was that the Easton epoxy did not want to come loose by using that method, hence I successfully used the method in the video without any damage to my arrows.


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## nycredneck (Nov 9, 2007)

I've been using hot melt glue for years on dozens of HIT arrows and it works fine. I screw a field tip onto the insert then back off a couple turns, put some hot melt glue on it, heat a little and insert. I first clean with a small bore gun wire brush then a Q-tip with alcohol. I can easily remove an insert by heating a machine screw or a field point. Very little heat is used with hot melt glue. I think using the amount of heat your using on those arrows can cause a failure, please be careful.


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## beaverman (Jun 21, 2008)

If you are heating the shaft until its too warm to hold 5" down and smoking the epoxy used to hold inserts you are putting way too much heat into those arrows. I don't know what it takes to actually damage carbon fibers but most carbon arrows are made by laying the fibers up in resin, pressing and rolling them. That resin is similar to the epoxy you were melting so adding all that heat would likely make the resin brittle and make the arrow prone to breaking where the heat was applied.


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## catfishmafia76 (Aug 23, 2009)

John Wayne said:


> you could also use an small metal rod like you can get at most farm stores. slid it in the tail end and slam it home. if it will not come out just use a litle bit if heat on a feild tip and then repeat.


Good tip but this will not work with the HIT inserts. The glue they use on them is SUPER strong and dang near impossible to get loose. OP you are the first person I have seen be able to get the HIT's loose. Likw already said though, be careful because I can see their point about the heat required to break them loose damaging the carbon.


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## randallss7 (Nov 9, 2007)

here is how I do it, I purchased a cheap soldering iron from tractor supply, I believe its been years ago, it just so happened when I screwed the soldering iron tip off the iron the threads closely matched the insert, I turn the iron on screw the arrow on it and pull the insert out happens quickly with no flame, works for me.


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