# Hoyt Nitrum Turbo right out of the box to full tune !!!!!!!!



## TNKnoxville (Dec 16, 2011)

Video won't play but a few seconds????


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## griffwar (Nov 15, 2012)

Must be the same hump people say the HTR has!!


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## BucksnBass525 (Feb 21, 2009)

griffwar said:


> Must be the same hump people say the HTR has!!


Please don't bring the HTR into this thread:no:

Looking forward to the set-up and numbers on this one!!!!!! I bet it comes in way over IBO...................


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

TNKnoxville said:


> Video won't play but a few seconds????


Working for me

Sorry about the glare I will try and post another one when I get a minute so you can see the digital scale readings better


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## cc122368 (May 30, 2010)

The one I shot had a slight hump it was not bad. But just not as smooth as the 34 and had a stiffness to the draw up front that I did not feel in the 34 that I ordered.


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## griffwar (Nov 15, 2012)

BucksnBass525 said:


> Please don't bring the HTR into this thread:no:
> 
> Looking forward to the set-up and numbers on this one!!!!!! I bet it comes in way over IBO...................


Tough!


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## BucksnBass525 (Feb 21, 2009)

cc122368 said:


> The one I shot had a slight hump it was not bad. But just not as smooth as the 34 and had a stiffness to the draw up front that I did not feel in the 34 that I ordered.


Agree the 34 is crazy smooth, but its a different cam. The Turbo cam is also smooth just a tad stiffer, awesome for a 350+ IBO bow.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

ontarget7 said:


> Working for me
> 
> Sorry about the glare I will try and post another one when I get a minute so you can see the digital scale readings better


Hopefully this one you can read better

https://vimeo.com/117975847


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## cowdocdvm (Apr 24, 2011)

Very nice!


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## saskhic (Aug 14, 2011)

yes there is a hump at 30 inch draw.just saying.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

saskhic said:


> yes there is a hump at 30 inch draw.just saying.


Well plenty of post well under 30" claiming a hump and so far I have not seen any of that in the 27,28, and 29" settings. Haven't had a 30" in yet to comment on that


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## Bowtechforlife (Apr 17, 2014)

This should be a great thread thanks! I'm guessing you will have this thing at 358 ibo


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## saskhic (Aug 14, 2011)

ontarget7 said:


> Well plenty of post well under 30" claiming a hump and so far I have not seen any of that in the 27,28, and 29" settings. Haven't had a 30" in yet to comment on that


I'm thinking it is only cause it's at the end of the number 3 cam.


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## Bowtechforlife (Apr 17, 2014)

Love the music in that second vid!


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Bowtechforlife said:


> Love the music in that second vid!


That's what happens when you have all girls


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## saskhic (Aug 14, 2011)

Bowtechforlife said:


> This should be a great thread thanks! I'm guessing you will have this thing at 358 ibo


I'm hoping for some good speed 30 inch draw ordered 60lbs maybe max at 62 to 63 pounds.already weighed my injexion arrows at 432 grains.couple more weeks hopefully.


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## Yooper720 (Nov 25, 2009)

I bet Shane busts some sweet dance moves while he listens to those hardcore jams. Like always I'm sure that bow will be sweet when your done with it!!


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## saskhic (Aug 14, 2011)

saskhic said:


> I'm hoping for some good speed 30 inch draw ordered 60lbs maybe max at 62 to 63 pounds.already weighed my injexion arrows at 432 grains.couple more weeks hopefully.


correction 451 grains


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## ProngHunter (Dec 17, 2009)

Shane. I sent to you a few PMs a while back on sending you my Nitrum turbo and 29 1/2 inch. While I do agree with 100% of what you say most of the time, I will say that this Nitrum turbo that I have that I am going to send you at 29 1/2 inches does have a hump in the last inch and a half or 2 inches of draw. Hopefully this will be your first 29 1/2 inch tuna on the Nitrum. Can't wait.


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## sean1 (Dec 5, 2009)

How far into the cable stops do you measure the draw length and holding weight? 
Just touching or a little further?


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## chaded (Jan 15, 2011)

Would like to see this with a 28" on #2 cam.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

sean1 said:


> How far into the cable stops do you measure the draw length and holding weight?
> Just touching or a little further?


I generally measure holding weight when you are firmly into both stops. At that same point draw length is measured. So I would say a touch past to be technical


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Great video shane. Identical to my test results as well. Not seeing any hump to the draw cycles myself eaither. My guess is that lots of guys feeling a hump at the local shop are testing bows that at not to there specs and are getting a false feel to the draw cyxle


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

chaded said:


> Would like to see this with a 28" on #2 cam.


It will have that as well as custom strings before done. I will give a report at the 27" setting with stock strings and 28" with the custom strings.


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## HoosierArcher88 (Jan 10, 2013)

Tagged


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## Bdamn808 (Nov 20, 2013)

Mine came in 3/4in advance on the bottom cam the dump into the valley was really violent after I got it timed no issues stiff draw but smooth all the way to the stops


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## nismomike (Feb 16, 2014)

Thank you! I have been echoing the same thing about not feeling the hump and not showing up on the scales either. I'm sure you will do all your own testing, but I can say the #2 cam at 27 and 27.5 has no weight increase on draw force showing a hump, and the bows owner does not feel any hump. I have tested my personal bow #3 at 28.5, 29, and 29.5. Literally every draw force has been a mirror image. I just don't feel the hump at all. I'm not saying anyone is a liar either. Just confused why some feel it and others dont. Have not shot a turbo at 28" in either cam or 30". I even watched the draw force when the ZT cable guard starts to flex, no increase at all and it starts flexing well before people are describing the hump. Only possible thing I can think is, the Turbo does hold pretty close to peak weight for quite a while, and maybe some people aren't used to the weight being so high that deep into the draw and their muscles are working a little harder than they are used to at that specific point (perceived as hump). I've had my Turbo since the day after they released, and maybe I don't feel the hump because I am used to the cycle. I will say though, I don't remember it ever having a hump.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

ProngHunter said:


> Shane. I sent to you a few PMs a while back on sending you my Nitrum turbo and 29 1/2 inch. While I do agree with 100% of what you say most of the time, I will say that this Nitrum turbo that I have that I am going to send you at 29 1/2 inches does have a hump in the last inch and a half or 2 inches of draw. Hopefully this will be your first 29 1/2 inch tuna on the Nitrum. Can't wait.


We shall see, it would be my first one at 29.5 . I'm quite sure it will turn out very well. 



nismomike said:


> Thank you! I have been echoing the same thing about not feeling the hump and not showing up on the scales either. I'm sure you will do all your own testing, but I can say the #2 cam at 27 and 27.5 has no weight increase on draw force showing a hump, and the bows owner does not feel any hump. I have tested my personal bow #3 at 28.5, 29, and 29.5. Literally every draw force has been a mirror image. I just don't feel the hump at all. I'm not saying anyone is a liar either. Just confused why some feel it and others dont. Have not shot a turbo at 28" in either cam or 30". I even watched the draw force when the ZT cable guard starts to flex, no increase at all and it starts flexing well before people are describing the hump. Only possible thing I can think is, the Turbo does hold pretty close to peak weight for quite a while, and maybe some people aren't used to the weight being so high that deep into the draw and their muscles are working a little harder than they are used to at that specific point (perceived as hump). I've had my Turbo since the day after they released, and maybe I don't feel the hump because I am used to the cycle. I will say though, I don't remember it ever having a hump.


Completely agree with the ones I have seen so far


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Here is the first two shots out of it. Current settings are nock level, 3/4 centershot, pre lean shaft spitting the string at nocking point, cams are dead even right now.


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## MSwickard (Jan 16, 2010)

Thanks Shane!!! Exactly the same thing I felt shooting the Nitrum Turbo 70/29 on #3 cam. BTW, thanks for the recommendation on Archery in the Wild and answering my Q's!!!! I'll be ordering a Nitrum Turbo next week from them.


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## 573mms (Jan 23, 2014)

It should be pretty quick, my #2 cam 28in draw 60lber is shooting a 398gr axis at 292fps and a 445gr axis at 275fps. That's with factory strings and I don't tune 100's of bows a year, I'm sure that helps alot. What kind of strings (material) do you like best and how many strands on cables and string are you useing and are you useing factory spec lengths?


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## SStech (Jan 7, 2008)

Cant wait for the results after tuning? I ordered a turbo 65 lbs 30 inch draw snow camo.


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## padeadeye (May 13, 2010)

tagged


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## GROSEN (Dec 29, 2014)

Sweet bow. Have to get One soon :darkbeer:


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## mountainman7 (Feb 15, 2013)

Tagged


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Here are some speed numbers with zero tuning other than nock height set and centershot

27/72
424 gr arrow
292 fps
Peep and loop


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

This was after tweaking cam synch with the same specs

27/72
424 gr arrow
Peep and loop
296-297 fps

This is still with stock strings


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## pabuckslayer08 (Nov 19, 2008)

I'm thinking I'll be ordering a turbo for hunting this year. Shooting my same arrows at 445 gr out of a 70 lb 30 inch turbo has me already excited to see my numbers.


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## yotehunter243 (Aug 12, 2013)

Tag


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Impressive numbers! Where did u end up in cam advancement? I got my best speeds and pattern with a hair more then 1/16 advanced.


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## MSwickard (Jan 16, 2010)

Tagged


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## COArrow (Nov 24, 2013)

MSwickard said:


> Thanks Shane!!! Exactly the same thing I felt shooting the Nitrum Turbo 70/29 on #3 cam. BTW, thanks for the recommendation on Archery in the Wild and answering my Q's!!!! I'll be ordering a Nitrum Turbo next week from them.


I have one on order with Archery in the Wild as well, waiting anxiously


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## wv hoyt man (Feb 17, 2012)

Tagged


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

MSwickard said:


> Thanks Shane!!! Exactly the same thing I felt shooting the Nitrum Turbo 70/29 on #3 cam. BTW, thanks for the recommendation on Archery in the Wild and answering my Q's!!!! I'll be ordering a Nitrum Turbo next week from them.


Your welcome !


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

COArrow said:


> I have one on order with Archery in the Wild as well, waiting anxiously


I bet you are ! 

Going to enjoy the Turbo my friend


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## COArrow (Nov 24, 2013)

ontarget7 said:


> I bet you are !
> 
> Going to enjoy the Turbo my friend


I will only have it a short time before I send it your way, I am thinking solid blue strings on the blackout will look pretty nice


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## Reverend (Nov 2, 2004)

tagged for later...
I'm expecting my NT this week... :dancing:


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## COArrow (Nov 24, 2013)

Actually just got the call, bow arrived. Will be picking it up tomorrow


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## MSwickard (Jan 16, 2010)

> Actually just got the call, bow arrived. Will be picking it up tomorrow


Excellent!!! Looking forward how these one runs!!!


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## Tony Trietch (Jun 18, 2006)

My turbo will not be here for 5-7 weeks...you should have all the info I need here in this thread by the time I go to set mine up!
Thanks Shane!


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## Finq (Jul 12, 2009)

I feel like every single time someone complains about a "hump" in the draw cycle, and notice how it's pretty much always right before the valley, is because the cam is more aggressive (shorter valley) or the draw length is longer. 
When I adjust my 28" bow to 28.5", it feels like there's a hump before the poundage drops off. That's just me not being used to draw it 0.5" further before it drops into the valley. It's the same cam, same poundage, same bow, but all of a sudden it developed an unsmooth draw force curve? Not very likely.
Same with more aggressive cam design. Let's say you're used to an Elite with 85% letoff and a super long valley, then you go to shoot a Bowtech, PSE or Hoyt, or almost any bow with significantly higher speeds. Of course the valley on those bows will be shorter and you'll pull the peak weak a bit longer as you're used to, which will again feel like a "hump". 

I've personally never shot a bow that was made within the last 4yrs or so that had any kind of measureable hump, at any point of the draw cycle. I've had the illusion a couple of times and most of those were bows with a longer draw length than what I'm used to.
Any kind of uneven hump in the draw force curve would indicate poor cam design and I don't think we get much of that anymore these days. They don't cut these cams once and put them on a bow, they're all engineered to be as efficient as possible. The only bows I could possibly see developing some kind of unpleasant dfc are bows with wide draw length adjustments, like most Bowtech's or PSEs.


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## KimberTac1911 (Feb 27, 2012)

In for a good thread. lets see the magic work


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## PayneTrain (Sep 30, 2013)

Awesome thread. About 6 weeks out from my turbo. It's 27" dl with 70# limbs. And my arrow weight...424. Couldn't ask for a better thread lol. Would really like to see the speeds with a light arrow, 370 maybe?


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## Bourbon Boy (Mar 18, 2013)

Will this set up info be about the same for a 34 Nitrum. After seeing the speeds, I can't wait to get mine, and see what 65# at 32" draw with a 335 grain arrow does! It looks like it draws as smooth as the other bow we get all the rave reviews about! Cheers--BB


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Okay, the 28" mods showed up sooner than expected. Have not really fine tuned anything yet and more just my rough preliminary setting. Nock height level, cam synch just a hair ahead on the top, centershot 3/4" and pre lean splitting the arrow at nocking point when you lay a shaft on the left side and project it down to the nocking point. 

Same settings after installing E mods to bring it to 28" draw. No readjustment of cam synch, it stayed identical after mod swap. Now the hot #2 cam in the E slot still is holding true. Generally you get a 10 fps increase with the gain in 1" of draw length. Well the #2 cam in the E slot had a net gain with everything else identical of 13 fps. This puts IBO equivalent calculations with not much tweaking at 358 fps. 

Current specs are 

28/72
424 gr arrow
Peep and loop 
310 fps

Shot the identical numbers 3 times. This tells me there is a very consistent back wall due to the extra load on the cables. In my findings the bows I have shot the best over the years have had the least amount of spread in chrono readings from a soft hold into the wall and a hard pull into the wall. Right now I am only seeing 1 fps difference at best between the two. 

Keep you posted with more info


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## fourbarrel (May 28, 2006)

How close would speeds be on a 34 #2 cam in 28.5 be to a turbo in#3 28.5


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## msteff (Apr 5, 2013)

Got my CST arrive soon. Of course I'll be working with Shane to get it dialed in. Can you comment on any differences in tuning the Nitrum turbo vs. Carbon. Any differences?


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## batsonbe (Nov 29, 2012)

ontarget7 said:


> Okay, the 28" mods showed up sooner than expected. Have not really fine tuned anything yet and more just my rough preliminary setting. Nock height level, cam synch just a hair ahead on the top, centershot 3/4" and pre lean splitting the arrow at nocking point when you lay a shaft on the left side and project it down to the nocking point.
> 
> Same settings after installing E mods to bring it to 28" draw. No readjustment of cam synch, it stayed identical after mod swap. Now the hot #2 cam in the E slot still is holding true. Generally you get a 10 fps increase with the gain in 1" of draw length. Well the #2 cam in the E slot had a net gain with everything else identical of 13 fps. This puts IBO equivalent calculations with not much tweaking at 358 fps.
> 
> ...


Very excited about this and anxiously awaiting the arrival of mine! Thank you Shane!!


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## ARKANSAS ARCHER (Apr 22, 2004)

Tagged thanks for the info!


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

fourbarrel said:


> How close would speeds be on a 34 #2 cam in 28.5 be to a turbo in#3 28.5


Roughly about a 12-14 fps difference


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

msteff said:


> Got my CST arrive soon. Of course I'll be working with Shane to get it dialed in. Can you comment on any differences in tuning the Nitrum turbo vs. Carbon. Any differences?


Nothing to speak of, they are very similar in regards to tuning


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## A CASE DEEP (Sep 6, 2012)

This may be a dumb question, but what other tuning is necessary if these hoyts are all honed in with the same specs (3/4 cs, level nock height, top cam advanced slightly, pre lean splitting the string at d loop height) assuming correct arrow spine and form of course. 

I guess the better question is, can one nitrum turbo tune to different specs than the other if the bows are exactly the same?? Thanks a lot.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

A CASE DEEP said:


> This may be a dumb question, but what other tuning is necessary if these hoyts are all honed in with the same specs (3/4 cs, level nock height, top cam advanced slightly, pre lean splitting the string at d loop height) assuming correct arrow spine and form of course.
> 
> I guess the better question is, can one nitrum turbo tune to different specs than the other if the bows are exactly the same?? Thanks a lot.


When you tune enough bows at different draw length you will learn where a very good starting base is. Then all your fine tuning starts from that point forward

Different draw length and peak weights will very some and fine tuning is always needed.

Honestly the info I give out on here has taking me years to grasp with a whole lot of trial and error. 

Bareshaft tuning has been around longer than you think. I probably started doing it 9 years ago but did not start doing it with every bow I get in until maybe 5 years ago. 

It was when I learned how important the grip was and the different stance that might be required for different bows that everything clicked. 

It's not rocket science but does take some knowledge and no the effects each adjustment makes good and bad. When you can keep everything in that balance is key to a solid well rounded tune.


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## Bullhound (Feb 5, 2004)

very impressive. Does this bow have much of a valley?


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## A CASE DEEP (Sep 6, 2012)

Good answer. I appreciate it. 

By the way, you helped me out a lot on the little advice you gave me on my faktor 30 and I couldn't be happier with the results. Thanks man.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Bullhound said:


> very impressive. Does this bow have much of a valley?


The valley is going to be shorter since speed comes from somewhere. I will give a comparison to a similar rated speed bow, the DNA. The DNA has very short valley and will definitely keep you honest. Take one at 70#, you will probably have a holding weight of 18-19#. The Hoyt Nitrum Turbo at 72# will have a holding weight in the 28" E slot of roughly 17#. Right now in the E slot I am running a solid 8 fps faster than the DNA at the same draw length with less holding weight and more of a valley. Quite a bit smoother for a speed bow and a more generous valley in the Turbo. 



A CASE DEEP said:


> Good answer. I appreciate it.
> 
> By the way, you helped me out a lot on the little advice you gave me on my faktor 30 and I couldn't be happier with the results. Thanks man.


Your welcome :thumbs_up


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## BowHuntnKY (Dec 10, 2008)

ontarget7 said:


> Hopefully this one you can read better
> 
> https://vimeo.com/117975847


I didnt know u were an Ariana Grande kinda guy!!


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## nhns4 (Sep 25, 2010)

BowHuntnKY said:


> I didnt know u were an Ariana Grande kinda guy!!


I dunno what is worse. Him listening to it or you knowing who it is lol.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

BowHuntnKY said:


> I didnt know u were an Ariana Grande kinda guy!!


Don't even no who that is LOL ! 
I'm guessing a song on the WII


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## Bullhound (Feb 5, 2004)

ontarget7 said:


> The valley is going to be shorter since speed comes from somewhere. I will give a comparison to a similar rated speed bow, the DNA. The DNA has very short valley and will definitely keep you honest. Take one at 70#, you will probably have a holding weight of 18-19#. The Hoyt Nitrum Turbo at 72# will have a holding weight in the 28" E slot of roughly 17#. Right now in the E slot I am running a solid 8 fps faster than the DNA at the same draw length with less holding weight and more of a valley. Quite a bit smoother for a speed bow and a more generous valley in the Turbo.



More like DNA SP but faster than regular DNA? Sounds pretty dang good!!!


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Bullhound said:


> More like DNA SP but faster than regular DNA? Sounds pretty dang good!!!


I would say stiffer up front. Definitely a very nice speed bow for sure. The thing holds like a rock with very little effort


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## Bowtechforlife (Apr 17, 2014)

What did I say?! Yep I said you would get 358 out of it! (Brush off my shoulder like it's no big deal)

Thanks for the info! So you have more tuning to do?


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## igorts (Apr 18, 2007)

Great numbers!


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## Grunt-N-Gobble (Jun 30, 2006)

Tagged. I've got a NT ordered myself.

Looking forward to see what #'s I get with my current 425-430gr arrows @ my 29.5" draw.


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## 573mms (Jan 23, 2014)

What kind of strings did you use and how many strands? Did you use factory spec length?


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## boonerbrad (Nov 30, 2006)

Just played with a carbon turbo yesterday and at 29" and 72 lbs it was consistently shooting 297 with a 470 grain arrow. That was with a loop and peep installed as well. Not sure that gets you close to 358 ibo but it is a smooth speed bow with a short valley. And very nice to draw and hold for a speed bow.


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## marcin04pl (Jun 22, 2011)

ontarget7 said:


> I would say stiffer up front. Definitely a very nice speed bow for sure. The thing holds like a rock with very little effort


Pm sent, thanks for all the info.


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## Tipsntails7 (Feb 21, 2013)

If the turbos are really getting 358 in the end slot that's amazing. It's a dream bow to shoot, shooting it and how easy it draws is almost shocking it can generate that speed. Once the tax return roles in I'll be ordering one up


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## Bbd16 (Feb 13, 2013)

Tipsntails7 said:


> If the turbos are really getting 358 in the end slot that's amazing. It's a dream bow to shoot, shooting it and how easy it draws is almost shocking it can generate that speed. Once the tax return roles in I'll be ordering one up


Ive seen the middle half of the 2 cam in the mid 350s as well not quite 358 but all around that 355 mark. Very impressive.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

573mms said:


> What kind of strings did you use and how many strands? Did you use factory spec length?



These current numbers are from stock strings, no custom specs. Hoyt does a great job at getting the most out of them


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## marcin04pl (Jun 22, 2011)

ontarget7 said:


> These current numbers are from stock strings, no custom specs. Hoyt does a great job at getting the most out of them


Shane do I go with the #3 cam if I get the turbo at 29"dl and 70#?


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## MSwickard (Jan 16, 2010)

> Shane do I go with the #3 cam if I get the turbo at 29"dl and 70#?


29" DL in the Turbo put you in the #3 cam C position


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## BucksnBass525 (Feb 21, 2009)

My Faktor 34 (same Z5 cams as Nitrum 34) is well over IBO in the "d" slot/#2 as well , with a 330 IBO rating it is amazingly smooth and producing real world 338-340fps IBO. :mg:
I have a feeling I will be with Hoyt for a while, digging this bow more every day.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Custom strings are in route so I will compare specs between the two.


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## Yooper720 (Nov 25, 2009)

What kind of material are you using for the strings??


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Yooper720 said:


> What kind of material are you using for the strings??


Hogwire, Brownell Fury


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## Bowtechforlife (Apr 17, 2014)

Awesome! Can't wait!


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## mountainman7 (Feb 15, 2013)

ontarget7 said:


> Hogwire, Brownell Fury


Can't wait to see the results after the custom threads Shane...I am getting a Turbo soon and I am "lucky " enough to be a 28" draw and plan on getting 70lb. limbs.
My hunting arrows weigh in at 397 and am only going to have a 1/8" Fletcher Tru Peep and loop , with one tied in nock set and the bow will be tuned and strings made by Tom, Ex-Wolverine, and I hope to see some great speed with this setup and his tune and strings as well....360 IBO perhaps..???
That's just smoking fast, and Hoyt always seem to under rate their speed....I got 11 fps over on my Pro Edge Elite that Tom tuned and strung for me...love these bows , best brand switch that I ever made was to Hoyt .


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

mountainman7 said:


> Can't wait to see the results after the custom threads Shane...I am getting a Turbo soon and I am "lucky " enough to be a 28" draw and plan on getting 70lb. limbs.
> My hunting arrows weigh in at 397 and am only going to have a 1/8" Fletcher Tru Peep and loop , with one tied in nock set and the bow will be tuned and strings made by Tom, Ex-Wolverine, and I hope to see some great speed with this setup and his tune and strings as well....360 IBO perhaps..???
> That's just smoking fast, and Hoyt always seem to under rate their speed....I got 11 fps over on my Pro Edge Elite that Tom tuned and strung for me...love these bows , best brand switch that I ever made was to Hoyt .


I believe Tom already posted his numbers on his Turbo quite awhile back. Since you have a great relationship with him I'm sure he would let you know what speeds you will get


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## mountainman7 (Feb 15, 2013)

ontarget7 said:


> I believe Tom already posted his numbers on his Turbo quite awhile back. Since you have a great relationship with him I'm sure he would let you know what speeds you will get


I'm sure that he will. Thanks for all of the info on the 28/72 speeds. I've got a pretty good idea of what my speed will be , was mainly thanking you for your review of the bow at my exact specs...I believe his results pretty much mirrored yours , and coming from two of the best tuners , is certainly reassuring.


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## my3sons (Mar 9, 2011)

Been following this thread, can't wait to get you my nitrum 34 Shane and get it rolling. Blake


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## Bowtechforlife (Apr 17, 2014)

I'm "lucky" (I wouldn't call it lucky) enough to be in e slot of the #1 cam on the turbo. I am hoping to get at least 360 ibo out of it with custom fury strings from Hogwire or Ray Knight.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

mountainman7 said:


> I'm sure that he will. Thanks for all of the info on the 28/72 speeds. I've got a pretty good idea of what my speed will be , was mainly thanking you for your review of the bow at my exact specs...I believe his results pretty much mirrored yours , and coming from two of the best tuners , is certainly reassuring.


You are welcome. Just prefer not to speak for someone if you are already working with him. 

Thanks
Shane


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

my3sons said:


> Been following this thread, can't wait to get you my nitrum 34 Shane and get it rolling. Blake


Thanks bro !


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Bowtechforlife said:


> I'm "lucky" (I wouldn't call it lucky) enough to be in e slot of the #1 cam on the turbo. I am hoping to get at least 360 ibo out of it with custom fury strings from Hogwire or Ray Knight.


#1 cam will do well in the E slot


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Tipsntails7 said:


> If the turbos are really getting 358 in the end slot that's amazing. It's a dream bow to shoot, shooting it and how easy it draws is almost shocking it can generate that speed. Once the tax return roles in I'll be ordering one up


Consider it amazing then :wink:


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## bowhunter727 (Apr 16, 2010)

How are the string angles on the turbo at 30"


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## chaded (Jan 15, 2011)

Are you running Carbon Injexions?


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

chaded said:


> Are you running Carbon Injexions?


Yes sir 

The 330's cut to 26.5" raw shaft at my 28" draw are tuning perfect


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## Putt4Doe (Sep 2, 2009)

Tagged for later


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## Bowtechforlife (Apr 17, 2014)

By the way what color of strings did you order? Are you a believer in that the flo colors rob you a couple fps?


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## chaded (Jan 15, 2011)

ontarget7 said:


> Yes sir
> 
> The 330's cut to 26.5" raw shaft at my 28" draw are tuning perfect


Thanks. I might run to the shop today and see if they have a nitrum turbo and carbon zt turbo in my draw to shoot.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Bowtechforlife said:


> By the way what color of strings did you order? Are you a believer in that the flo colors rob you a couple fps?


Still getting equal speeds with the flo colors


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## Unicron (Nov 26, 2012)

Wow, thanks for the insights Shane.

Now I see where Hoyt gets its runs fast reputation from. I guess I've been testing them with the wrong cams all along. Because regardless of where I stick my mods (even at just 40% let-off) on a PSE which is extremely close in feel (IMO) I cannot get a 330-340 bow to do 355+ IBO.
Surely, these are chrono tests without reference, but that is alright. These clearly beat IBO by a bunch if you get it all setup right.

Hoyt does indeed ship bows in perfect spec, which is kind of rare. Does speak for their strings as well. Definitely improved over the last 5 years. Now if only shipping them overseas didn't take 2 months (in harsh conditions temperature wise) that'd be great...


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## Tipsntails7 (Feb 21, 2013)

Unicron said:


> Wow, thanks for the insights Shane.
> 
> Now I see where Hoyt gets its runs fast reputation from. I guess I've been testing them with the wrong cams all along. Because regardless of where I stick my mods (even at just 40% let-off) on a PSE which is extremely close in feel (IMO) I cannot get a 330-340 bow to do 355+ IBO.
> Surely, these are chrono tests without reference, but that is alright. These clearly beat IBO by a bunch if you get it all setup right.
> ...


I don't know the answer for certain but I feel hoyts ratings are spot on for the first spot on any given cam. That way no matter what slot your in your bound to get the speed you were expecting. Then when you move the slot the cam is allowed to rotate causing it to be more efficient there buy gaining speed and performance.

I'm blessed to be in the e slot on the turbos and have never shot one that did not exceed the given ATA, that includes my vector, my buddies spyder and now the nitrum. I've also never seen them go over by 15 fps either though. 

As far as pse, everyone I've shot has been spot on, to me that's an accomplishment in itself with the inflation that most bow companies seem to be doing. I go into it expecting I to shoot what it says it does. If it does I'm happy, any extra is icing on the cake.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Spot on to +3 usually in the #3 cam E slot. 
Plus + 8-15 in the #2 cam E slot and pretty close to the same in the #1 cam. 

They really should rate their cams separately but it won't happen due to standard testing at 30". Everything that deviates from that is all just calculated numbers like, 1 fps loss for every 3 grains of arrow weight above IBO, weight on string, draw length deduction etc.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Unicron said:


> Wow, thanks for the insights Shane.
> 
> Now I see where Hoyt gets its runs fast reputation from. I guess I've been testing them with the wrong cams all along. Because regardless of where I stick my mods (even at just 40% let-off) on a PSE which is extremely close in feel (IMO) I cannot get a 330-340 bow to do 355+ IBO.
> Surely, these are chrono tests without reference, but that is alright. These clearly beat IBO by a bunch if you get it all setup right.
> ...


----------



## chaded (Jan 15, 2011)

Shane you preferring the z5 or Turbo cams over the other after spending time with them both? I went and shot a nitrum turbo and carbon zt 30 today. Neither were at my draw length unfortunately so it was tough. Both seemed nice though!


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## jrb CO (Dec 3, 2002)

I know you love the aluminum risers this year, but is there any reason the carbon bows will not exhibit similar specs to the nitrum series.


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## 573mms (Jan 23, 2014)

jrb CO said:


> I know you love the aluminum risers this year, but is there any reason the carbon bows will not exhibit similar specs to the nitrum series.


They are not going to shoot any different speed wise, if that's what you mean. It's just personal pereferrence they are both the same bows.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

chaded said:


> Shane you preferring the z5 or Turbo cams over the other after spending time with them both? I went and shot a nitrum turbo and carbon zt 30 today. Neither were at my draw length unfortunately so it was tough. Both seemed nice though!


Personally I like the Turbo cam myself. It is stiff up front but very nice transitions throughout for those kind of speeds and the hold on target is great


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

jrb CO said:


> I know you love the aluminum risers this year, but is there any reason the carbon bows will not exhibit similar specs to the nitrum series.


The biggest difference in the carbons I find is the grip geometry is a little higher than the aluminum risers. They have been very repeatable in their differences when tuning. The carbons seem to have more wiggle room for top cam advancement when fine tuning, where the aluminum risers have less and usually fall ever so slightly ahead with the top cam to much and right away it will yield a bareshaft low tail high impact with fletched. 

The new Turbo has much higher tension on the cables so the slight top cam advanced or even at the same time yields great results. Models with less tension on the cables I definitely prefer to tune with top cam at least 1/16 to 1/8" top cam ahead


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)




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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Bareshafts are still perfect with fletched


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

I saw a couple other questions but not specific to mine. I'm debating between the 30 and the turbo. I'm used to a speed bow (agenda 6). But don't want to sacrifice what I could be getting in smoothness and valley with the 30. Any input on that?


----------



## Grunt-N-Gobble (Jun 30, 2006)

Charlie250 said:


> I saw a couple other questions but not specific to mine. I'm debating between the 30 and the turbo. I'm used to a speed bow (agenda 6). But don't want to sacrifice what I could be getting in smoothness and valley with the 30. Any input on that?


You gotta shoot both and decide for yourself. Smoothness is subjective and while the Z5 cams are smooth, more so than the turbo cams, the turbo cams IMO are smooth too. You usually have to give a little somewhere to get the faster speeds.

With that said, I've got a Turbo on order.


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

Yeah I'm going to on Monday. Just wondering what others thought about it.


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

The agenda 6 was jumpy to me.


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## coop88 (Sep 13, 2013)

tag


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## paarchhntr (Dec 21, 2005)

Interested to know what the measured brace height is on your setup.


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## BucksnBass525 (Feb 21, 2009)

Charlie250 said:


> I saw a couple other questions but not specific to mine. I'm debating between the 30 and the turbo. I'm used to a speed bow (agenda 6). But don't want to sacrifice what I could be getting in smoothness and valley with the 30. Any input on that?


In my opinion the Turbo cam is much much smoother than the Agenda or the Arena.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

paarchhntr said:


> Interested to know what the measured brace height is on your setup.


I can check

Honestly I never measure ATA or brace, imagine that


----------



## 737flyer (Dec 8, 2009)

Bowtechforlife said:


> This should be a great thread thanks! I'm guessing you will have this thing at 358 ibo


I think someone it's dreaming. You can't cheat the laws of physics.


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## 737flyer (Dec 8, 2009)

Bdamn808 said:


> Mine came in 3/4in advance on the bottom cam the dump into the valley was really violent after I got it timed no issues stiff draw but smooth all the way to the stops


I second that. Mine at 29" #3 cam with no hump. Bottom cam was advanced out of the box.


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## 737flyer (Dec 8, 2009)

ontarget7 said:


> This was after tweaking cam synch with the same specs
> 
> 27/72
> 424 gr arrow
> ...


With stock strings, cams synced, at 29" - 61#, my corrected numbers mirror these.


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## 737flyer (Dec 8, 2009)

Bbd16 said:


> Ive seen the middle half of the 2 cam in the mid 350s as well not quite 358 but all around that 355 mark. Very impressive.


"C" mod, #3 cam (29" DL) stock strings, synced cams, 13/16" center shot, 61# I'm at 348 fps corrected. 24 strand string (replacing Hoyt's 28 strand), speed jumped 8 fps to 356 fps. Moving to "D" mod & 29.5" DL, 357 fps corrected.


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## razortusk (Dec 23, 2009)

What can I expect ballpark out of 28.5" dl number 3 cam turbo shooting 67 to 68lbs with a 424 grain arrow. I realize that I won't be as efficient at 28.5" dl in a number 3 cam.


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

BucksnBass525 said:


> In my opinion the Turbo cam is much much smoother than the Agenda or the Arena.


Thanks. With my short draw (27.5-28") I think I'll be getting the turbo. I Appreciate the input!


----------



## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

Awesome thread!


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

737flyer said:


> "C" mod, #3 cam (29" DL) stock strings, synced cams, 13/16" center shot, 61# I'm at 348 fps corrected. 24 strand string (replacing Hoyt's 28 strand), speed jumped 8 fps to 356 fps. Moving to "D" mod & 29.5" DL, 357 fps corrected.


I have been seeing 350-353 with stock strings in the #3 cams in the C slot


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## 737flyer (Dec 8, 2009)

ontarget7 said:


> I have been seeing 350-353 with stock strings in the #3 cams in the C slot


Yes, but as I've mentioned in the past, you're in Colorado at 5,000+ ft MSL, I'm in Florida at sea level. Airspeed increases as density altitude increase (ie. better performance). No surprise there.


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## shinobi3 (Jun 20, 2009)

So if I wanted a 27 /70 I would need a #2 cam correct?


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## sightpin (Feb 22, 2007)

So as far as the cam timing tell me if I'm correct; This would be a 29.5" draw length on the Nitrum aluminum riser #3 cam in the "D" slot, both cams hitting the stops at the same time?


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## 573mms (Jan 23, 2014)

shinobi3 said:


> So if I wanted a 27 /70 I would need a #2 cam correct?


Yep, #2 cam goes from 26-28ins.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

737flyer said:


> Yes, but as I've mentioned in the past, you're in Colorado at 5,000+ ft MSL, I'm in Florida at sea level. Airspeed increases as density altitude increase (ie. better performance). No surprise there.


Have not seen this to hold water. 

Have plenty of customers that way that have verified the exact same speeds that I am showing


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

sightpin said:


> So as far as the cam timing tell me if I'm correct; This would be a 29.5" draw length on the Nitrum aluminum riser #3 cam in the "D" slot, both cams hitting the stops at the same time?


That is a good starting point


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## watasha (Apr 11, 2013)

tagg


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## 737flyer (Dec 8, 2009)

ontarget7 said:


> Have not seen this to hold water.
> 
> Have plenty of customers that way that have verified the exact same speeds that I am showing


Well, it's fact. Science as they say. I know. I have a degree in aeronautics/aerodynamics and taught it at the university level and live it every day at 40,000' as a commercial airline pilot.

As altitude increases, partial pressure of the air decreases. This decrease lowers the parasite drag ( Parasitic drag*is a combination of form drag, skin friction*drag and interference*drag).

The speed difference between sea level and 5,000 msl is measurably significant. You won't see large differences in a chrono (no more than a few feet per second at most) because of the distance the arrow is shot through the chrono. If, however, you shot the arrow through the chrono at a much farther distance, (say 30') the difference between the readings would be even more significant.

This phenomena is well known to golfers (who drive the ball farther in the thin air), baseball players whose pitches travel faster, and us airline pilots who need much longer runways to stop our jets on with higher ground speeds.

We've had this discussion before. This is where you start comparing your achievable speeds to the other tuners say on the east coast and say the results are the same. And most on here will buy off on it because you charge to tune their bows and have a cult like following. Where I tune bows for FREE in my shop as a service to help those in central Florida who don't have the equipment.

I'm not attacking you, I respect your knowledge. You've put the time in, learned and perfected your trade. But to completlt discount science and physics all at the same time, you better have an education in it before you start discounting those of us who do.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

737flyer said:


> Well, it's fact. Science as they say. I know. I have a degree in aeronautics/aerodynamics and taught it at the university level and live it every day at 40,000' as a commercial airline pilot.
> 
> As altitude increases, partial pressure of the air decreases. This decrease lowers the parasite drag ( Parasitic drag*is a combination of form drag, skin friction*drag and interference*drag).
> 
> ...


To sum it all up in your own words it doesn't change when checking through a chrono at 5 ft. 

Don't take it as attacking it at all, just stating my findings from 6000 to 2000 ft which I have personally tested with zero difference in chrono readings


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## nismomike (Feb 16, 2014)

ontarget7 said:


> To sum it all up in your own words it doesn't change when checking through a chrono at 5 ft.
> 
> Don't take it as attacking it at all, just stating my findings from 6000 to 2000 ft which I have personally tested with zero difference in chrono readings


+1 I live at 1200 ft elevation and travel to Flagstaff Az (7000 ft) often. I got the same exact average fps variation in both locations. Maybe their's a variation way down range, but my poi didn't change out to 60.


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## ElkFetish (Aug 12, 2007)

I live at 2200 and my base camp is over 9k. The chrono fps is the same at both locations. Now do I get a change in POI at the 2 locations, you bet. I see less drop at all ranges but especially with my pins at 40+ yards.


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## paarchhntr (Dec 21, 2005)

737flyer said:


> Well, it's fact. Science as they say. I know. I have a degree in aeronautics/aerodynamics and taught it at the university level and live it every day at 40,000' as a commercial airline pilot.
> 
> As altitude increases, partial pressure of the air decreases. This decrease lowers the parasite drag ( Parasitic drag*is a combination of form drag, skin friction*drag and interference*drag).
> 
> ...



Geez, Calm down college boy. Weather delays getting the best of you?

He's only being helpful.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

nismomike said:


> +1 I live at 1200 ft elevation and travel to Flagstaff Az (7000 ft) often. I got the same exact average fps variation in both locations. Maybe their's a variation way down range, but my poi didn't change out to 60.


I can agree with that ! When I lived in Utah I sighted in everything at 5600 ft elevation and hunted at 8000-10,000 with zero issues down range in change of impact point. Have a hand full of deer kills at 80 yards at 9000-9500 range in elevation with zero issues


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Squeezed in a little bareshaft and fletched at 30 yards with the Nitrum Turbo.


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## 737flyer (Dec 8, 2009)

ontarget7 said:


> To sum it all up in your own words it doesn't change when checking through a chrono at 5 ft.
> 
> Don't take it as attacking it at all, just stating my findings from 6000 to 2000 ft which I have personally tested with zero difference in chrono readings


Those aren't my words, my words were _"You won't see large differences in a chrono (no more than a few feet per second at most) because of the distance the arrow is shot through the chrono."_

This was all about "why" your chrono numbers were about 3-5' faster than my readings. That's it.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

737flyer said:


> Those aren't my words, my words were _"You won't see large differences in a chrono (no more than a few feet per second at most) because of the distance the arrow is shot through the chrono."_
> 
> This was all about "why" your chrono numbers were about 3-5' faster than my readings. That's it.


K
It's amazing how you seem to always bring it up. 

3-5 fps is a big difference in my world and I don't see it when testing at the different elevations


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## TravisMears.net (Mar 19, 2012)

razortusk said:


> What can I expect ballpark out of 28.5" dl number 3 cam turbo shooting 67 to 68lbs with a 424 grain arrow. I realize that I won't be as efficient at 28.5" dl in a number 3 cam.


razortusk, 

those are almost my exact specs. Im currently shooting the 28.5" DL number 3 cam turbo shooting maxed out at 70-72 with 425 grain arrow and getting 305 fps consistent.


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## JohnMalone (Jan 19, 2015)

So what does it usually run to get a good set of strings and the installation of the strings cost? I have never had a bow restrung. I have only used the factory strings. Thanks


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## shinobi3 (Jun 20, 2009)

Since you've shot the nitrum and the turbo which one are you liking more?


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## samson99 (Oct 24, 2012)

The turbos that you have tuned, where did your center shot end up? I just put new strings on mine and bare shaft tuned to 15 yards in the basement and my center shot ended up at 11/16" with minimal cam lean.


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## DJO (Dec 5, 2008)

Shane, I think it would be very helpful if you could post this information, the steps and progress with this bow, on your website. It is great info. that would be easier to read without the multiple posts with questions and comments. Do not get me wrong, I enjoy the thread, and often comment on your threads, but posting your uninterrupted process via pictures and video on your site would be a good way for explaining your tuning process. In fact, you should add more information on your tuning techniques and what your tuning includes to your website, I think it would be a great tool for your business.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

DJO said:


> Shane, I think it would be very helpful if you could post this information, the steps and progress with this bow, on your website. It is great info. that would be easier to read without the multiple posts with questions and comments. Do not get me wrong, I enjoy the thread, and often comment on your threads, but posting your uninterrupted process via pictures and video on your site would be a good way for explaining your tuning process. In fact, you should add more information on your tuning techniques and what your tuning includes to your website, I think it would be a great tool for your business.


I will be doing this for sure. Been getting lots of request for the same thing so it will be in the works my friend

Thanks for the input


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

DJO said:


> Shane, I think it would be very helpful if you could post this information, the steps and progress with this bow, on your website. It is great info. that would be easier to read without the multiple posts with questions and comments. Do not get me wrong, I enjoy the thread, and often comment on your threads, but posting your uninterrupted process via pictures and video on your site would be a good way for explaining your tuning process. In fact, you should add more information on your tuning techniques and what your tuning includes to your website, I think it would be a great tool for your business.





ontarget7 said:


> I will be doing this for sure. Been getting lots of request for the same thing so it will be in the works my friend
> 
> Thanks for the input


Maybe what I will do from time to time is post up very good starting points to start your fine tuning process from and make it bow specific. It would be much easier for those that are interested instead of weeding through all the post on threads like this.


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## chaded (Jan 15, 2011)

Maybe you should do a DVD Shane. [emoji6]


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## Doebuster (Mar 5, 2006)

Instead of nuts and bolts you could call it shims and limbs ! Lol great post !


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

chaded said:


> Maybe you should do a DVD Shane. [emoji6]





Doebuster said:


> Instead of nuts and bolts you could call it shims and limbs ! Lol great post !


Except if you don't like it you can go pound sand :wink:


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## straight2it (Nov 30, 2010)

Shane are there more than the 40 sec vids?


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## RuntCX2 (Oct 8, 2012)

chaded said:


> Maybe you should do a DVD Shane. [emoji6]


Shane has some video's on YouTube of his terrible shooting[emoji87] [emoji79] [emoji51] [emoji46] [emoji38]


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Got a chance to drop back to 100 yards for the first time. Man, I really can't wait with some serious time behind it. 

After sighting in, here is a 100 yard group.


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## igorts (Apr 18, 2007)

Good shooting!


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

igorts said:


> Good shooting!


Thanks bro

Here was one arrow at 100 yards to end the day. Sweet feeling to end on that note !


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## whack n stack (Dec 23, 2007)

Fine shooting Shane!


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## deer310sg (Feb 20, 2006)

I'm liking it! Good shooting!


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## saskhic (Aug 14, 2011)

I stand corrected shane! I recently got my new turbo,installed new strings and tuned it up.had to drop from 30 to 29.5 for side plates.but got the 180 rubber with green skull coming so should be able to go back to 30.once it was timed and tuned no hump at all!!


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## saskhic (Aug 14, 2011)

was going too use your services but this bow was a dream too tune.thanks!


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## buckmastered (Mar 28, 2014)

When you say no hump what exactly do you mean?


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## saskhic (Aug 14, 2011)

buckmastered said:


> When you say no hump what exactly do you mean?


the one the hoyt rep brought when I got too try all the new bows I wanted a turbo.the hump was what I believe one cam rolling over before the other which felt like a hump.but once I got mine and timed it correctly there was none.so I'm figuring the reps wasn't timed.


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## saskhic (Aug 14, 2011)

most likely from going too all the pro shops letting people shoot them.


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## straight2it (Nov 30, 2010)

Loving mine! Just got some Vaps V1s 400 125 grain points, should be lethal!


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## Reverend (Nov 2, 2004)

Would love to see a draw force curve on this bow...


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## saskhic (Aug 14, 2011)

Reverend said:


> Would love to see a draw force curve on this bow...


he did in the first page


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## Don_Swazy (Jul 9, 2013)

Awesome thread!


----------



## Reverend (Nov 2, 2004)

saskhic said:


> he did in the first page


Thanks. I saw the vid of the bow on the scale, but no printout of force draw curve / diagram??


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Here is an update for a great starting point for pre lean.


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## Tuningfreak (Apr 6, 2004)

Not much pre-lean there.


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

The ATA on the Turbo is running significantly longer than listed Specs. I'm sure its because of the "short bow tards" that they fudged the number down instead of up. My Nitrum Turbo sits dead even axle to axle with my last years Carbon Spyder 34. Right at 33-1/2" with the #2 cams. Also the N.Turbo doesn't compress as much at full draw as the 34" bows due to limb angle, therefore ATA at full draw is equal or slightly longer on the Turbo than the Nitrum 34. My specs. and speeds right now with stock threads: 27.5" draw- 66.8 pounds- 402 grain arrow= 299.6-300.7 fps. That is with stock everything, all level and straight with 1/16" advance, and no pre-lean, tuned perfection in about 5 minutes, and the Turbo cam holds SOOOOO GOOD. I can't wait to see what this rocket will do with 8190....:mg:



ontarget7 said:


> I can check
> 
> Honestly I never measure ATA or brace, imagine that


----------



## jrb CO (Dec 3, 2002)

Any updated speeds with your Hogwire threads?


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

IDK about him, but the speeds I'm getting with this set up I would be amazed if there was a significant gain going to 8190 or even 8125, but you never know I guess. I never thought I would see the day when I had a bow set below 28 inches of draw and below 67 pounds that would shoot a 400+ grain arrow at 300 feet per second, and I DEFINITELY didn't think it would be one of the easiest to shoot most accurate bows I've ever tested.... In one word Nitrum Turbo= "Efficient"



jrb CO said:


> Any updated speeds with your Hogwire threads?


----------



## Grunt-N-Gobble (Jun 30, 2006)

Grunt-N-Gobble said:


> Tagged. I've got a NT ordered myself.
> 
> Looking forward to see what #'s I get with my current 425-430gr arrows @ my 29.5" draw.


Ok......... So I picked up my turbo Friday evening and got the tuning started. It's timed for both stops to touch at the same time. Prelean is good and going off of memory, the center of the shaft doesn't cross the string until below the center of the string.

Forgot to measure peak weight, but it was bottomed out and it's a 70 lb bow. At 29.5 in draw, peep, loop and tied-in kisser with my 430gr arrow, it shot 305 fps. With a 356gr arrow, it shot 334 fps. I think those numbers are pretty good, but I don't have any of the programs to see how this compares to corrected calculations.


----------



## huntertroy (Feb 16, 2010)

ontarget7 said:


> This was after tweaking cam synch with the same specs
> 
> 27/72
> 424 gr arrow
> ...


Did you gain this 5 fps just by making top cam hit sooner then bottom 
Thanks


----------



## huntertroy (Feb 16, 2010)

Also curious if you do your bareshaft tuning using a shooting machine?
Thanks again


----------



## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

huntertroy said:


> Did you gain this 5 fps just by making top cam hit sooner then bottom
> Thanks


You will gain the most in that setting. The most important thing in that setting is your pull through the shot is way more consistent with very little change in chrono readings. This leads to way more consistency down range for the shooter



huntertroy said:


> Also curious if you do your bareshaft tuning using a shooting machine?
> Thanks again


No, I do not using a shooting machine. IMO the only thing they are good for is nock tuning your arrows, if you choose to do that. I go a different route through the arrow building process. What I find with a mechanical shooter, most the time you still have to tune the bow when your done. Why ? It does not manipulate a shooters grip very well. Generally, they will put you close and some further modifications will be needed.


----------



## igorts (Apr 18, 2007)

Grunt-N-Gobble said:


> I think those numbers are pretty good, but I don't have any of the programs to see how this compares to corrected calculations.


I use this one :
http://utopiaprogramming.com/ke/ke.php


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## Grunt-N-Gobble (Jun 30, 2006)

igorts said:


> I use this one :
> http://utopiaprogramming.com/ke/ke.php


Thanks!!


----------



## huntertroy (Feb 16, 2010)

ontarget7 said:


> You will gain the most in that setting. The most important thing in that setting is your pull through the shot is way more consistent with very little change in chrono readings. This leads to way more consistency down range for the shooter
> 
> 
> 
> No, I do not using a shooting machine. IMO the only thing they are good for is nock tuning your arrows, if you choose to do that. I go a different route through the arrow building process. What I find with a mechanical shooter, most the time you still have to tune the bow when your done. Why ? It does not manipulate a shooters grip very well. Generally, they will put you close and some further modifications will be needed.


Thank you for the reply Shane. I agree with your thoughts on the shooting machine. I was more curious on how you bareshaft different draw length bows or even say a lefty.
Thanks for your time


----------



## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

huntertroy said:


> Thank you for the reply Shane. I agree with your thoughts on the shooting machine. I was more curious on how you bareshaft different draw length bows or even say a lefty.
> Thanks for your time


I can shoot pretty decent left handed. Used to switch hit in baseball. The more you do it the easier it gets.


----------



## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

So did you do the Hogwires you were talking about? Or not? If so what did you see? Haven't got my 8190 yet to play... :-(



ontarget7 said:


> You will gain the most in that setting. The most important thing in that setting is your pull through the shot is way more consistent with very little change in chrono readings. This leads to way more consistency down range for the shooter
> 
> 
> 
> No, I do not using a shooting machine. IMO the only thing they are good for is nock tuning your arrows, if you choose to do that. I go a different route through the arrow building process. What I find with a mechanical shooter, most the time you still have to tune the bow when your done. Why ? It does not manipulate a shooters grip very well. Generally, they will put you close and some further modifications will be needed.


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## ProngHunter (Dec 17, 2009)

I think Shane should donate a set of Hogwires on a certain Black Nitrum Turbo he's got......for testing purposes you see. :blob1:


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

What happened Shane? Did she blow up? LOL! No word here lately? Not like you to bail on these kind of threads...



ontarget7 said:


> This was after tweaking cam synch with the same specs
> 
> 27/72
> 424 gr arrow
> ...


----------



## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Still got stock strings on my personal 
Speeds have been about the same with customs


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## blance7 (Jan 11, 2012)

737flyer said:


> Those aren't my words, my words were _"You won't see large differences in a chrono (no more than a few feet per second at most) because of the distance the arrow is shot through the chrono."_
> 
> This was all about "why" your chrono numbers were about 3-5' faster than my readings. That's it.


I tried not to make a comment but this flyer guy is just ridiculous. Im being nice when I say, Maybe the OP tunes his bows better? It's always the one with the big fancy degree's that put themselves on a pedestal. No body cares about your degrees and that you fly a plane.


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## COArrow (Nov 24, 2013)

Shane's chrono has been with 2-3 fps of the one at my local shop on two bows he tuned up for me, so it is not very far off from my experience.


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

Same thing we've been hearing. Did you play with the size of the center serving on your personal bow? The stock threads on these bows are ridiculously thick. Just wondering if you tried to play with the nock fit with serving size at all????



ontarget7 said:


> Still got stock strings on my personal
> Speeds have been about the same with customs


----------



## g_whitcomb (Mar 30, 2012)

ontarget7 said:


> Here is the first two shots out of it. Current settings are nock level, 3/4 centershot, pre lean shaft spitting the string at nocking point, cams are dead even right now.


I was wondering if you can post a photo of the marks for the elevation of the Hoyt/QAD rest since it is such a popular combo? That would really help us understand just how high in the Berger you are running the arrow? I also don't get how the Taller launcher they include would be of any use? All I have ever had it do is cram the rest too far down into the shelf?


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

GreenAcres said:


> I was wondering if you can post a photo of the marks for the elevation of the Hoyt/QAD rest since it is such a popular combo? That would really help us understand just how high in the Berger you are running the arrow? I also don't get how the Taller launcher they include would be of any use? All I have ever had it do is cram the rest too far down into the shelf?


I good rule of thumb for me with the Z5 cams or Turbo cams is center of shaft pushing the top of berger hole


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## boonerbrad (Nov 30, 2006)

After some fine tuning and some arrow changes(the zt likes stiff spined arrows) my turbo hits 338 ibo with a loaded string. 29" draw,70 lbs .300 spine kinetic kaos arrows at 497 grains it shoots 294 fps. Should be enough momentum and ke to kill turkeys this spring.:mg:


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Just the right spine range, not necessarily stiff. I can tune my turbo to shoot 340 to 300 spine with great results.


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## Grunt-N-Gobble (Jun 30, 2006)

Boonerbrad said:


> After some fine tuning and some arrow changes(the zt likes stiff spined arrows) my turbo hits 338 ibo with a loaded string. 29" draw,70 lbs .300 spine kinetic kaos arrows at 497 grains it shoots 294 fps. Should be enough momentum and ke to kill turkeys this spring.:mg:


You sure that 294fps isn't a typo? I only say that cause mine was doing 305fps with a 430gr arrow @ 29.5 in draw. And that was just during the initial setup. All I'm saying is something doesn't sound right.


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## Wyatt Sauvageau (Sep 22, 2014)

I was kinda sad that I didn't get to tune at all out of the box on my Nitrum 34.  But hey, it being in perfect tune is nice!


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

Wow, I'm just the opposite, I like the level of the shaft on all bows to be as close to the grip as possible and still maintain clearance of course. Did you play with serving size and nock fit on these Turbos yet?



ontarget7 said:


> I good rule of thumb for me with the Z5 cams or Turbo cams is center of shaft pushing the top of berger hole


----------



## boonerbrad (Nov 30, 2006)

Grunt-N-Gobble said:


> You sure that 294fps isn't a typo? I only say that cause mine was doing 305fps with a 430gr arrow @ 29.5 in draw. And that was just during the initial setup. All I'm saying is something doesn't sound right.


Too fast or too slow? You have my set up by 1/2" draw length and I have 67 more grains on my arrow. Plus my 29" draw is measured. Your 29.5" if not measured may well be 1/4" long.


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## boonerbrad (Nov 30, 2006)

ontarget7 said:


> Just the right spine range, not necessarily stiff. I can tune my turbo to shoot 340 to 300 spine with great results.


Shane mine would not paper tune at all with CE Aramid 350's cut at 28" with a 125 grain head. The 300 spine did with no other changes. A friend found the same exact thing with his. 340's with a 100 grain head may do fine never tried them as I shoot the heavy stuff.lol


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Boonerbrad said:


> Shane mine would not paper tune at all with CE Aramid 350's cut at 28" with a 125 grain head. The 300 spine did with no other changes. A friend found the same exact thing with his. 340's with a 100 grain head may do fine never tried them as I shoot the heavy stuff.lol


The CX is also a 347 spine I believe and with a 125 gr head I can see that definitely causing some issues


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## Grunt-N-Gobble (Jun 30, 2006)

Boonerbrad said:


> Too fast or too slow? You have my set up by 1/2" draw length and I have 67 more grains on my arrow. Plus my 29" draw is measured. Your 29.5" if not measured may well be 1/4" long.


Too fast. But maybe I'm wrong. 67grs is a good amount and to only be 11 fps slower is very good IMO. I haven't shot a heavier arrow through a chrono yet to have some sort of comparison. To have an almost 500gr arrow going almost 300fps is very nice.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

THE ELKMAN said:


> Wow, I'm just the opposite, I like the level of the shaft on all bows to be as close to the grip as possible and still maintain clearance of course. Did you play with serving size and nock fit on these Turbos yet?


I base mine off of a desired cam synch and with them lowering the grip quite a bit the last couple of years I find this to work best. I would actually like to see them raise the grip slightly, seeing a more halfway medium between prior years and present


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## hoytelement24c (Jun 4, 2013)

Im shooting my nt at 72# with the #2 cam E mod (28") with a 469gr arrow and its shooting right at 290fps...i shot an unfletched 350gr arrow out of it and it hit 336fps. Its a little bit over ibo but not much...as for shootability and tuning it was extremely easy to make it shoot bullet holes with the some minor yoke tuning and it held very steady on target atleast up to 40 yards (most i can get in the shop range)


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

Not me. I like the arrow going through the bow as close to center as it can, and the tune is a lot simpler verticaly IMHO. Have you played with serving size and or nock fit yet?



ontarget7 said:


> I base mine off of a desired cam synch and with them lowering the grip quite a bit the last couple of years I find this to work best. I would actually like to see them raise the grip slightly, seeing a more halfway medium between prior years and present


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

THE ELKMAN said:


> Not me. I like the arrow going through the bow as close to center as it can, and the tune is a lot simpler verticaly IMHO. Have you played with serving size and or nock fit yet?


Yep, have played with all that.


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

Haven't changed all my stuff yet. Honestly I am to impressed with what it's doing with the stock stuff. How much gain did you see going to a looser nock fit, by what ever means?



ontarget7 said:


> Yep, have played with all that.


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## no1jaf (Mar 9, 2015)

I have an NT that I'm learning how to tune myself (my first Hoyt). My specs are 28/70 #2 cam. I searched all of the relevant threads that I could find including the Nuts n Bolts. The question I have is: Do you sync the cams on the Nitrum Turbo with the stop in the C or D slot, then move it the correct place to match the mods like the earlier Hoyts? Or do I just do all of the tuning in the E slot? Thanks...


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## igorts (Apr 18, 2007)

E for you since you have E modules on the bow


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## K&K (Aug 10, 2010)

no1jaf said:


> I have an NT that I'm learning how to tune myself (my first Hoyt). My specs are 28/70 #2 cam. I searched all of the relevant threads that I could find including the Nuts n Bolts. The question I have is: Do you sync the cams on the Nitrum Turbo with the stop in the C or D slot, then move it the correct place to match the mods like the earlier Hoyts? Or do I just do all of the tuning in the E slot? Thanks...


Tune it where u shoot it.


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## no1jaf (Mar 9, 2015)

Wow, you guys are fast! Thanks! E it is...


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## igorts (Apr 18, 2007)

Older Hoyts had to be tuned in D as you figured out, but it changed with new cams/modules


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## no1jaf (Mar 9, 2015)

That explains a lot. I tried tuning in the D slot and it made the top cam heavily advanced. The drop into the valley was pretty abrupt. Now when I tune it in the E slot, it has a much smoother transition into the valley. However, now the valley is almost non-existent. Reviews said it "has a generous valley for a speed bow". Is this the way these bows are supposed to be. If so, no problem. I'm not a snob when it comes to feel and I'm sure I can adapt to it. I guess I just want to know if I have it close to right.


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## 573mms (Jan 23, 2014)

no1jaf said:


> That explains a lot. I tried tuning in the D slot and it made the top cam heavily advanced. The drop into the valley was pretty abrupt. Now when I tune it in the E slot, it has a much smoother transition into the valley. However, now the valley is almost non-existent. Reviews said it "has a generous valley for a speed bow". Is this the way these bows are supposed to be. If so, no problem. I'm not a snob when it comes to feel and I'm sure I can adapt to it. I guess I just want to know if I have it close to right.


The #2 cam does have alot smaller valley than the #3 cam does.


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

Figured I'd ask here because it's a bunch of guys tuning nitrums. I have a nitrum turbo with a ripcord ace drop away and an hha slider. 2 questions. I'm shooting through paper perfect but my rest isn't in the center of the shelf is this a problem or is it just the way it is? Next question. I bought a tru glo quiver and the mount is right in the way of my slider lever on my sight. I really don't like that. What quiver will work? Just needs to be detachable.


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## Grunt-N-Gobble (Jun 30, 2006)

Can't help you on the quiver, but what is your center shot measuring at fro the riser?

You should be in the neighborhood of 3/4" when measured against the metal and not the rubber pad.


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

So center shot is from the riser to the center of the arrow?


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## apt2106 (Jan 19, 2012)

Charlie250 said:


> So center shot is from the riser to the center of the arrow?


Put a 1/4 Allen wrench in the top limb bolt and another wrench in the bottom limb bolt. Place a rubber band around the two wrenches. Nock and arrow. Adjust rest side to side until arrow is centered between legs of rubber band.<br/>


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

Centershot on the Nitrums is ever so slightly inside of the center of the shelf...(Toward the riser)



Charlie250 said:


> Figured I'd ask here because it's a bunch of guys tuning nitrums. I have a nitrum turbo with a ripcord ace drop away and an hha slider. 2 questions. I'm shooting through paper perfect but my rest isn't in the center of the shelf is this a problem or is it just the way it is? Next question. I bought a tru glo quiver and the mount is right in the way of my slider lever on my sight. I really don't like that. What quiver will work? Just needs to be detachable.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

3/4" centershot off the riser not the rubber pad


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

ontarget7 said:


> 3/4" centershot off the riser not the rubber pad


yup..^


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Here are my final specs with Brownell Fury strings from Rob at Hogwire. Awesome job as usual bro [emoji106].
This will be my personal hunting set up for this year and final specs are

28"/74#
426 gr arrow
Peep & loop
314 fps [emoji15]










Nock level, cams synched so top cam is hitting 1/16" before bottom cam and centershot at 3/4" off the riser. Pre lean is running dead parallel with aim string as shown in pic 


















Results will vary, this is not set in stone on settings, spine, draw length, draw weight all play a role in the end results. On a side note, I have seen less pre lean required when you are running your dynamic spine a touch to the weak side according to OT2 software. My personal bow has zero pre lean but some lean at full draw. Now, the farther you move to a stiffer dynamic spine I am finding more pre lean and less lean at full draw. Take your pic, either way you go they tune up perfect.


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

I actually thought you would have got more speed out of that poundage. Is that bow sited when you took the pre lean picture? Laterally?


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Didn't expect much more than what I am getting now. 358 IBO equivalent calculation is not bad at all


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## Mike Pollan (Feb 6, 2015)

Not bad so far..


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

ontarget7 said:


> Didn't expect much more than what I am getting now. 358 IBO equivalent calculation is not bad at all


No, not bad for sure. Is that a Hoyt 28" draw? Or true length? And is your pin sitting out to the left of your arrow? Looks like it in that photo, may just be the angle...


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

THE ELKMAN said:


> No, not bad for sure. Is that a Hoyt 28" draw? Or true length? And is your pin sitting out to the left of your arrow? Looks like it in that photo, may just be the angle...


28 1/8" true measured draw 
As far as pin alignment goes, I haven't even looked to be honest LOL ! I just tune them and shoot them. I could really careless where the pin ends up as long as I hit what I am aiming at [emoji2]
I will post a pic when I get a minute.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Here you go bro !









If you really want to be technical it is 1/32 left of the left side of aim string or 1/16 left of dead center of aim string.


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## Bullhound (Feb 5, 2004)

THE ELKMAN said:


> I actually thought you would have got more speed out of that poundage. Is that bow sited when you took the pre lean picture? Laterally?


Really? I get 357 IBO. And the other bow makers tell you you cannot get good speed numbers if your arrow is over 350 grains or your draw length is less than 30". I'm having a hard time not trying one of these!


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

Okay cool!



ontarget7 said:


> 28 1/8" true measured draw
> As far as pin alignment goes, I haven't even looked to be honest LOL ! I just tune them and shoot them. I could really careless where the pin ends up as long as I hit what I am aiming at [emoji2]
> I will post a pic when I get a minute.


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

Thats exactly like mine. Is that the accutouch?



ontarget7 said:


> Here you go bro !
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

Nice lookin threads BTW!


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## Bullhound (Feb 5, 2004)

THE ELKMAN said:


> Nice lookin threads BTW!


yes I love those colors. Had exactly those colors on a DNA SP done in Stormy Gunmetal. Love the colors!!!!


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## ChappyHOYT (Feb 26, 2009)

Sweet bow and threads. Had to go Nitrum 30, but loved the turbo w/ its relatively smooth draw for a speedster.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Thanks guys ! 

This just might end up being my favorite bow to date.


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

ontarget7 said:


> Thanks guys !
> 
> This just might end up being my favorite bow to date.


It's mine for sure!!!


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## GROSEN (Dec 29, 2014)

Mine is still 1-3 weeks out... The wait is killing me :nyah:


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## AdamsC (May 12, 2014)

Just got mine! Starting tuning today with hope for equal results!!! Love it so far!


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

Any tips for a new Hoyt owner trying to get used to the big wooden grip? I've shot off the riser on previous bows and had no trouble getting bullet holes shooting bare shafts. But I just can't get a consistent tear yet. Some are left. Some are right. Some diagonal. I really like the looks of the wooden grip but I'll get side plates if I shoot off the riser better.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Hard for me to give you any advise, I feel it fits just perfect for me. The grip is very comfortable, having no pressure points and very evenly contoured to my hand. Extremely repeatable shot after shot when you just let your hand fit right in to it. From a tuning standpoint it likes the whole hand through the lifeline to contact it.


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## RuntCX2 (Oct 8, 2012)

ontarget7 said:


> Here are my final specs with Brownell Fury strings from Rob at Hogwire. Awesome job as usual bro [emoji106].
> This will be my personal hunting set up for this year and final specs are
> 
> 28"/74#
> ...


What cam setting are you using on OT2 to get your result's? I find it strange that when I plug in my Faktor 30 it'll show 2xhard cam and a Nitrum Turbo show 1xhard cam.


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

Get the side plates. MUCH better grip option on every level...



Charlie250 said:


> Any tips for a new Hoyt owner trying to get used to the big wooden grip? I've shot off the riser on previous bows and had no trouble getting bullet holes shooting bare shafts. But I just can't get a consistent tear yet. Some are left. Some are right. Some diagonal. I really like the looks of the wooden grip but I'll get side plates if I shoot off the riser better.


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

I'm going to give another try with the grip tomorrow if I can't stay consistent I'll pick up the side plates at Lancaster when I return my quiver. Thanks for the input guys.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

RuntCX2 said:


> What cam setting are you using on OT2 to get your result's? I find it strange that when I plug in my Faktor 30 it'll show 2xhard cam and a Nitrum Turbo show 1xhard cam.


1X hard 

I will have to check the Faktor again, the Nitrums all show 1x hard cam


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## SWOreBowHunter (Apr 13, 2013)

THE ELKMAN said:


> Get the side plates. MUCH better grip option on every level...


That's what I'm doing. I ordered Rattler strike plates about a month ago. The wait is killing me, but I'm sure it'll be worth it.


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

Okay I had a chance to shoot today. I was getting consistent bullet holes at about 2 ft. Then backed up to 10 ft and was getting consistent 2" tail left tears. Nock level. Center shot at 3/4" off the riser. Top Cam lean set where arrow crosses at nocking point like this \ and bottom cam crosses at the same place like this /. I did notice the bottom cam was leaning more at full draw than at brace. The string stop on the bottom cam was hitting towards the end of the peg. Any suggestions?


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Need more info, like all specs, bow draw weight, draw length, arrow specs, pics of pre lean on the top cam with an arrow on the left side projected down to nocking point. Also post a pic of your grip at full draw. Personally don't like to shoot from the hip on advise and need the whole picture for best response


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

Right hand 27.5/71 nitrum turbo. #2 cam. I can get the pics in the morning. Do you want the pics of the arrow on the cam at brace or at full draw? And the pic of the grip might be hard to get.... Maybe I'll take a video and take a screen shot of it. Thanks for the help Shane. I really appreciate it.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

No problem

At brace on the cam lean. Definitely a pic of the grip as well to get the whole picture of what's going on. Don't forget arrow specs


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

Okay with the grip picture. Which way should the picture be taken? Front, back or side?


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

From the bow arm side would be fine


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

These are my arrows 27 1/8" carbon to carbon


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

bottom cam







top cam


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

bottom hole is at 2 ft. Top hole is at 10 ft


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

OK, a couple things.. The first being under spined with your specs, the 340's would be a better option but we will give it a whirl.

The first thing I would do is add one full twist to the left yoke and take one full twist out of the right yoke

Next would be your grip. It is not relaxed and you have your knuckles turned back to you. Now you might not think you do because you are comfortable with that grip. However, you are actually forcing your finger out and this will cause you to have a counterclockwise rotation from a neutral grip standpoint. This will give you a left tear every time and be difficult keeping the Turbo in the healthy perimeters of a good tune.

Now after yoke adjustment concentrate on your grip and relaxing your finger, letting them lightly rest on the front of the riser. This will let you put more of your thumb pad on the grip itself. 

Give those two things a whirl and report back


Shane


----------



## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

Okay thanks. I'll give it a whirl tomorrow.


----------



## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

[emoji106]


----------



## rhodeislandhntr (Jul 3, 2006)

shane, any idea when you will be caught up taking more orders, as soon as I figure out my DL I will be needing it tuned. thanks


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

You think he's under spined with 400s at that length?



ontarget7 said:


> OK, a couple things.. The first being under spined with your specs, the 340's would be a better option but we will give it a whirl.
> 
> The first thing I would do is add one full twist to the left yoke and take one full twist out of the right yoke
> 
> ...


----------



## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

THE ELKMAN said:


> You think he's under spined with 400s at that length?


Yep


----------



## Bonz (Jan 15, 2006)

Charlie250 said:


> bottom hole is at 2 ft. Top hole is at 10 ft


Wouldn't he add a twist to the right yoke and take one out of the left for the tear that is pictured?


----------



## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Bonz said:


> Wouldn't he add a twist to the right yoke and take one out of the left for the tear that is pictured?


Just blew the pic up on my phone

It is a left tear which means bareshaft would impact right, which means left twist in yoke


----------



## skynight (Nov 5, 2003)

ontarget7 said:


> Just blew the pic up on my phone
> 
> It is a left tear which means bareshaft would impact right, which means left twist in yoke



Looks tail left to me also.

Edit: that was funny, you must have been editing while I was posting.


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

He may be a touch on the weak side on the charts and programs, but they are always over spined. I'm guessing that the spine has little, to nothing to do with the tear he's getting. His grip looks like he's getting to much inside pressure to me...(Thumb side) I would look at the grip before I started dumping hundreds into arrows. Would be great if we could get a photo from the front of the bow grip with him at full draw.


----------



## Bonz (Jan 15, 2006)

ontarget7 said:


> Just blew the pic up on my phone
> 
> It is a left tear which means bareshaft would impact right, which means left twist in yoke


Ya your right now that I look at it closely.


----------



## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

THE ELKMAN said:


> He may be a touch on the weak side on the charts and programs, but they are always over spined. I'm guessing that the spine has little, to nothing to do with the tear he's getting. His grip looks like he's getting to much inside pressure to me...(Thumb side) I would look at the grip before I started dumping hundreds into arrows. Would be great if we could get a photo from the front of the bow grip with him at full draw.


Personally, I don't need a pic from the front to tell. 
From my experience where he falls on the chart he is weak and not ideal.


----------



## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

So I'm adding one twist to the left and taking one out of the right? Right?


----------



## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Yes


----------



## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

No one can tell grip pressure/torque from that angle.



ontarget7 said:


> Personally, I don't need a pic from the front to tell.
> From my experience where he falls on the chart he is weak and not ideal.


----------



## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

I beg to differ :wink:, 

You tune enough bows with bareshafts results you can. Quite easy to determine what kind of results one might get when you have the whole picture of whats going on.


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

So you are saying here in front of everybody that you can tell everything he's doing with his grip from the PHOTO ABOVE? (And just an FYI- I tune hundreds of bows a year) SO...:wink:



ontarget7 said:


> I beg to differ :wink:,
> 
> You tune enough bows with bareshafts results you can. Quite easy to determine what kind of results one might get when you have the whole picture of whats going on.


----------



## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

THE ELKMAN said:


> So you are saying here in front of everybody that you can tell everything he's doing with his grip from the PHOTO ABOVE? (And just an FYI- I tune hundreds of bows a year) SO...:wink:


Yes, he is having issues and I am pointing out solutions to get him going in the right direction.


----------



## Viper04 (Feb 8, 2006)

THE ELKMAN said:


> So you are saying here in front of everybody that you can tell everything he's doing with his grip from the PHOTO ABOVE? (And just an FYI- I tune hundreds of bows a year) SO...:wink:


Man! why do people have to try a trash someone who is offering free advice and help?

Shane is looking at ALL of the information that was presented and making recommendations on that. He can see the tear and he can see the grip pic and he is making suggestions based on his vast experience with tuning bare shafts and different grip pressures. 

If you have some different advice then that's fine, politely offer it. Don't start a pissing match and act like an adolescent.


----------



## luvelkhunt (Dec 9, 2013)

Never seen a bow that so many people are having grip issues with... Why this one all of the sudden?


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

luvelkhunt said:


> Never seen a bow that so many people are having grip issues with... Why this one all of the sudden?


No different than any other bow really, I see it all the time. Don't forget the dynamically under spined part playing a role as well


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## Kris87 (Sep 12, 2003)

Plus, his tear at 2 feet isn't that bad. Add to the fact that his top cam has very little amount of prelean, and this should be an easy fix. Shane has given him all the advice he needs. The spine is a small part of the equation, but would definitely help. Fix that little bit with the grip, and add in some lean, and its going to shoot great. 

This bow isn't showing any more difficulties in tuning than previous Hoyts other than the fact it is a lot faster. Naturally going to show more inconsistencies when it comes to form and spine. We all know its easier to tune and shoot a bow that has a 320 IBO than one with a 350 IBO. At least it is for me.


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

I did what you said to the yokes. One twist to the left and one twist out of the right. Tears were inconsistent again. I took the grip off to see what happens. I had about an inch nock high tear at 10 ft. I raised the rest a hair and shot 3 bullet holes. 

I must just like the riser more than the grip. I'm going to get some nice side plates for it. I didn't have much of a chance to shoot it and make sure it's good but I will this weekend. 
Thanks a million for the help man.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Inconsistency is usually grip related. Taking the grip off helped due to it forcing you more to the thumb pad side at the grip by lengthening your actual measured draw. 

[emoji106]


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

Yep...:wink: Think that's what I said...LOL


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

Just get you some nice side plates and you will never even think of going back. It is a SWEEEET grip...



Charlie250 said:


> I did what you said to the yokes. One twist to the left and one twist out of the right. Tears were inconsistent again. I took the grip off to see what happens. I had about an inch nock high tear at 10 ft. I raised the rest a hair and shot 3 bullet holes.
> 
> I must just like the riser more than the grip. I'm going to get some nice side plates for it. I didn't have much of a chance to shoot it and make sure it's good but I will this weekend.
> Thanks a million for the help man.


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

Nothing to do with "this one". It is the most common tuning issue in archery. Everybody wants to tune their bow, but they never even think about the really important part... TUNING THE SHOOTER. 



luvelkhunt said:


> Never seen a bow that so many people are having grip issues with... Why this one all of the sudden?


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Charlie250 said:


> I did what you said to the yokes. One twist to the left and one twist out of the right. Tears were inconsistent again. I took the grip off to see what happens. I had about an inch nock high tear at 10 ft. I raised the rest a hair and shot 3 bullet holes.
> 
> I must just like the riser more than the grip. I'm going to get some nice side plates for it. I didn't have much of a chance to shoot it and make sure it's good but I will this weekend.
> Thanks a million for the help man.


I will also add, if you get into some inconsistencies or issues down range, don't overlook dynamic spine. Personally when shooting long range my groups will open up if I were where you are on the software program charts. I will post a pic with your specs to give you an idea.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

ontarget7 said:


> I will also add, if you get into some inconsistencies or issues down range, don't overlook dynamic spine. Personally when shooting long range my groups will open up if I were where you are on the software program charts. I will post a pic with your specs to give you an idea.


Here is the pic, as you can see, way to the weak side


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

ontarget7 said:


> Here is the pic, as you can see, way to the weak side


Wow. Thanks man. I never really thought about arrows being stuff or weak. I've shot the same kind since I started hunting. I have been reading that mine are a little light for hunting. They are about 386 gr. what would you recommend for a good hunting/target arrow for my setup. I only hunt whitetail. Thanks again for the help.


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## aestheticbrah (Feb 24, 2015)

How are you guys lining up the center of the shaft and the top of the Berger hole with the rubber shelf padding in the way? Did you just eyeball it?


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

Just poke a pointed object through from the back, not hard enough to penetrate, just hard enough to see the bulge. Then mark it with a silver paint pen while your poking and you will have the reference point from then on. Set your shaft center, to center bottom of mark for best tune...


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## armarm (Mar 27, 2015)

I'm shooting 29.5" goldtip hunter with 340 spine. 30" DL at 70...I'm thinking 300 spine would be better? Thinking it will help my tail left tear


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

With your specs at your draw length, yes a 300 spine would be best


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## armarm (Mar 27, 2015)

That 70lbs feels like 80lbs at 30" lol. If I drop to 65,66lbs, 300 still?


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

If it were me with your specs I would still go 300. It will give you more versatility when you want to increase the weight. Going down to 65# is doable with the 340's but I would cut raw shafts about 28.5"

Grant it, it's a speed bow and speed comes from some where. For the speeds it producing its the nicest drawing speed bow I have shot to date. Liking it so much I got mine a tad hot at 74# and still like the draw cycle.


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## armarm (Mar 27, 2015)

Appreciate it!


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## armarm (Mar 27, 2015)

For the record, I got this bow with 28.5" DL, cranked up to 74lbs was not a prob. Changed mods to fit my 30" and that 74 is STIFF into the valley. Anyways, I blame it on the DL and will get by. Thanks again


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

armarm said:


> For the record, I got this bow with 28.5" DL, cranked up to 74lbs was not a prob. Changed mods to fit my 30" and that 74 is STIFF into the valley. Anyways, I blame it on the DL and will get by. Thanks again


E slot my friend, I'm in the same slot but #2 cam. We are getting all of that power stroke


You are welcome !


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

ontarget7 said:


> With your specs at your draw length, yes a 300 spine would be best


Does this go the same for me?


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Yes, at a 30" draw I would opt for a 300 spine from 65-74


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

What about a 27.5" draw? And I was looking for something a little heavier. Any recommendations?


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## aestheticbrah (Feb 24, 2015)

THE ELKMAN said:


> Just poke a pointed object through from the back, not hard enough to penetrate, just hard enough to see the bulge. Then mark it with a silver paint pen while your poking and you will have the reference point from then on. Set your shaft center, to center bottom of mark for best tune...


Thanks! Wait, I'm not sure if I'm understanding your last sentence. So I should line up the center of my shaft with the bottom of the Berger hole?


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## tscan (Jun 18, 2010)

ontarget7 said:


> Hopefully this one you can read better
> 
> https://vimeo.com/117975847


nice...


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Charlie250 said:


> What about a 27.5" draw? And I was looking for something a little heavier. Any recommendations?


340 spine

What weight range you looking at ?


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

Around 400. Final weight. 100gr tip.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

GT Hunters, Easton Axis both in the 340 spine would put you right there. 

Easton Carbon Injexions or GT Kaos with out ballistic collar will put you close as well

The Carbon Injexions you would have to switch up broadheads and fieldpoints that where HIT Deep Six compatible


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

some where between center- To lower center of the berger hole



aestheticbrah said:


> Thanks! Wait, I'm not sure if I'm understanding your last sentence. So I should line up the center of my shaft with the bottom of the Berger hole?


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## RuntCX2 (Oct 8, 2012)

Charlie250 said:


> Around 400. Final weight. 100gr tip.


Easton Axis 340 with factory wrap removed.
27.5 carbon shaft
X nock
H.I.T insert
3 Blazer's
100 grain tip 
405 grain's rough figure.
Add the Broadhead Adapter Ring (B.A.R) add 5 grain's.

GT Hunter 75/95 with 27.5 shaft would be around 386 grain's.


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## gansettx (Dec 25, 2010)

My turbo is 33 1/4 axle to axle. Should I concern myself with trying to get it to 33? Just got it and am setting it up...it looks to have little to no pre lean. #2 cam e slot.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

33 1/4" is just fine , it happens to be mine as well in the #2 cam E slot :wink:

Guys don't get caught up on all the people saying you need to get your bow to spec for ATA and brace. 

Let peak weight and desired draw length determine that. The rest of all the spec measurements. let them fall where they fall


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

Mines almost 33-1/2" ATA. Your fine.


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## gansettx (Dec 25, 2010)

You guys are correct...ATA is fine. Fresh off the draw board, timing set.
28" dl 65.5 lbs 

400 spine 333gr Bloodsports...
First group 20yrds...Shmokin'

300 spine Black Eagle Deep Impacts will be here Wednesday


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## one66stang (Mar 25, 2009)

ontarget7 what brand is that draw board?


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

one66stang said:


> ontarget7 what brand is that draw board?


That is a drawboard I purchased quite awhile back from Elite, not even sure if they still sell them.


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

Make your own. It will be A LOT better than what the market has to offer...



one66stang said:


> ontarget7 what brand is that draw board?


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

Hey Shane. Haven't had a chance to mess with the bow for a while. I've got everything in order and she's shooting great. But I put it on the draw board one last time to check the timing and noticed my bottom can has some noticeable lean at full draw. Is this something to worry about or is this normal.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Charlie250 said:


> Hey Shane. Haven't had a chance to mess with the bow for a while. I've got everything in order and she's shooting great. But I put it on the draw board one last time to check the timing and noticed my bottom can has some noticeable lean at full draw. Is this something to worry about or is this normal.


If you have a small spacer with the black one on the right side you can get a little of that lean out by sapping it off with the white spacer. 

This will put you hitting closer to the middle of the draw peg. You will have to retune slightly at the yokes afterwards


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

Would you do that? Or leave it alone?


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## Turkey165 (Aug 24, 2009)

Tagged


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Charlie250 said:


> Would you do that? Or leave it alone?


If it's tuning good and you have no issues, I would leave it alone and maybe on your next string change use that as an option


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## shinobi3 (Jun 20, 2009)

Tag for later


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## Kris87 (Sep 12, 2003)

My CST ZT has the spacers opposite yours, white is on the right, black on the left. It has the least amount of cam lean of any Hoyt I've ever had, but the draw stop peg just barely cleared the control cable during the draw cycle. I took the peg and sanded it down slightly to give it more clearance. My buss cable hits the peg dead in the center of the stop. I'm still impressed with how mine is tuning, almost no lean anywhere in the top or bottom cam. Sometimes you just get lucky.


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## RuntCX2 (Oct 8, 2012)

Charlie250 said:


> Hey Shane. Haven't had a chance to mess with the bow for a while. I've got everything in order and she's shooting great. But I put it on the draw board one last time to check the timing and noticed my bottom can has some noticeable lean at full draw. Is this something to worry about or is this normal.


My Faktor 30 was just like your's and it was wearing the serving on the left of the string. I swapped my spacers and it's not nearly as bad.


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

There is one white and one black. The white looks a little thicker. If I swap these will it help? I don't really see how it will help the lean. It will just move it over a hair right?


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Guys spacers will vary, I have found them both ways white on right and black on left, then vise versa. It just depends on the limbs and how they are taking the loads. 

For instance, I just had one in that was white on right but had much better results with black on right. Not the norm but it's not set in stone.


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

I switched them but now the cable stop is missing the buss cable just slightly. Is this ok?


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Charlie250 said:


> I switched them but now the cable stop is missing the buss cable just slightly. Is this ok?


Yep, that's perfect


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## Kris87 (Sep 12, 2003)

Yep, as Shane said, that's much better. As long as it clears ok, its good to go. I bet its lining up a lot better now too.


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

Awesome. It's perfect now. Thanks a lot guys!


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)




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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

One of the easiest quickest fixes in the industry for sure... ;-)



Kris87 said:


> Yep, as Shane said, that's much better. As long as it clears ok, its good to go. I bet its lining up a lot better now too.


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## benz1978 (Nov 7, 2011)

Tagged


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

I never really checked where I was with the Berger hole. I just did and realized I'm on the high side. Should I center it and readjust my nock point, Or leave things alone? I have time to tinker and just want it perfect. Thanks.


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)




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## Kris87 (Sep 12, 2003)

That's just a little higher than mine, but I wouldn't change it. I tune all mine on the high side of the hole.


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

Alright everything is looking good. Bs perfect with fletched out to 20 yards. Only thing that's not perfect is the sight pin is about 1/8" to the left of the string when looking down the string and arrow. Is this okay?


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## armarm (Mar 27, 2015)

I believe the sight pins are always slightly to the left of the string. My always is


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## GROSEN (Dec 29, 2014)

Just tuned my carbon. i was mid/low in the berger hole and BS where 2" high @20 meters couldn't lower the rest more without getting contact. put a new nocking point on the string and got it fixed. Mine is perfect now. but i think yours are okay, no need to change it IMHO.

Walkback tune or french tune it to find out if the pins are off. its a quick fix 

This is me all done :cheers:


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Charlie250 said:


> Alright everything is looking good. Bs perfect with fletched out to 20 yards. Only thing that's not perfect is the sight pin is about 1/8" to the left of the string when looking down the string and arrow. Is this okay?


Please stop looking at sight pins lining up with string. 
This has no barring on how a bow shoots or performs down range. The more load on the cables a bow has it will be more to the left of center compared to a bow that has less loads on the cables.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

A tune has nothing to do with sight pins and their position in line with string. 

Tons of variables for them to not line up. What is more important, do you hit what your aiming at


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## Pony30 (Jul 9, 2014)

Love the 34 feel. Bonus since I am a long draw which brings IBO North of 340. Best of both worlds...


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## Charlie250 (Mar 15, 2014)

20 yards and there's a bare shaft in there. I like this bow more and more every time I shoot it. Thanks Shane and whoever else helped me on here.


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## ontarget7 (Dec 30, 2009)

Charlie250 said:


> 20 yards and there's a bare shaft in there. I like this bow more and more every time I shoot it. Thanks Shane and whoever else helped me on here.


[emoji106]


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## THE ELKMAN (Jan 2, 2013)

The Nitrum truly is a step forward on all fronts for archers, and hunters...


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## WGA (Aug 18, 2009)

Tag


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## KYBowhunter89 (Sep 21, 2008)

Tag. Thanks for all of the info! Will be using this for tuning reference when mine gets here.


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## enkriss (Apr 10, 2009)

ontarget7 said:


> A tune has nothing to do with sight pins and their position in line with string.
> 
> Tons of variables for them to not line up. What is more important, do you hit what your aiming at


I broke my draw stop off...

Have you ever tried any after market stops like the bomar stops or one of these match point stops?


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## Itbvolks (Mar 16, 2015)

Bomar draw stops are very nice for their intended use.


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## Bauer21 (May 27, 2015)

Nice


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## enkriss (Apr 10, 2009)

Itbvolks said:


> Bomar draw stops are very nice for their intended use.


Do they "clink"?

I ordered an 8mm match point stop to try out.


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## Itbvolks (Mar 16, 2015)

Provided your not ripping your bow through to the stops - they're plenty quiet.


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## 0nepin (Sep 16, 2009)

Try it at 30"


ontarget7 said:


> This bow is a 27"/70# in Max-1. Just figured this might help a few out as well as give you some info In regards to tuning these bows. First thing I will point out is draw force curve. Not sure where all the hump info is coming from in draw force curve. I will start with a digital scale and a visual look to the draw cycle. As you can see, there is no hump on the backend and this is straight out of the box. I Follow up with a step by step setup as we move forward.
> 
> https://vimeo.com/117974322


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## 0nepin (Sep 16, 2009)

Really ?


ontarget7 said:


> A tune has nothing to do with sight pins and their position in line with string.
> 
> Tons of variables for them to not line up. What is more important, do you hit what your aiming at


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## golfernash (Feb 6, 2007)

Tagged


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## tonygoz (May 1, 2013)

Tag


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## Akfreak (Aug 24, 2015)

Subbed


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