# Nock left on fletched arrows



## sprinke (Jul 9, 2015)

I've read a bit about bare shaft tuning but haven't tried it (I have a limited number of arrows and no way to re-fletch them if I took off the fletching). However, I have noticed that when practicing form at very short distances (<10 feet), I get a very consistent nock left with my fletched arrows. What are some possible causes of this? 

I'm shooting right-handed, three under, off of rest similar to the Hoyt Super Rest. Samick Sage 30# but my DL is about 26". Arrows are Carbon Impact Super Club 2030, they are very thin and light, cut down to 28" -- deflection is .820 with an 80g tip and 5.5 gpi, with 2.5" vanes.


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## cubefx (May 8, 2012)

From what I know, those arrow are way to stiff for the #30 bow. If fletched arrows shoot nock left, your bareshafts will fly sideways. My wife shooting #30 bow and she is using 1816 full length with 125 grain points.


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## secretagentmann (Jul 6, 2012)

nock left is a weak arrow.

just went through this the other day tuning my new bow. shot a full length 3555.. hard nock left. (and point of impact is off to the right..)
i cut it down some, slight nock left, i cut it some more, almost straight flight (point of impact moved more towards the center of where i'm aiming)
add the feathers (stiffens some) perfect straight flight.


cut your arrow down 1/4" at a time.. you really need a bare shaft to shoot with some fletched arrows to read it properly. if you end up flying nock RIGHT, you took off too much.

if you are tuned well, then its got to be your release.


hered a good guide for tuning.
http://www.texasarchery.org/BoardMembers/RickStonebrakerPages/TuningForTens/TuningForTens.html

what kind of riser/ bow is it? can you adjust your rest closer to the riser by screwing it in?


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

sp - 

You're probably still in paradox at <10'. 

However, if it's not lying to you, a left tear (nock leff) indicates a weak arrow for a right handed shooter.
Not likely.

Viper1 out.


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## sprinke (Jul 9, 2015)

Viper1 said:


> You're probably still in paradox at <10'.


If this were the case, then I would expect that if I stepped back or forward by 1/2 arrow length, I would get nock right, because the arrow would be flexing back and forth. I will test this.

Is there any other possibility not related to spine? Could the back end of the arrow be hitting the riser or rest and knocking it off-kilter? Anything form-related for me to watch out for? I'm still pretty new at archery.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

sp -

Maybe.
Kinda why we paper tune at 15'. 

The only reason the tail it hitting the riser would be a stiff acting arrow. 

Sure it could be a form issue, typically plucking would give a false weak reading, but given the variables there's no way of telling from here.

Viper1 out.


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## sprinke (Jul 9, 2015)

Viper1 said:


> Kinda why we paper tune at 15'.


Just double checking, you mean 15 feet not 15 yards? So I know where to stand tomorrow.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Viper1 said:


> Sure it could be a form issue, typically plucking would give a false weak reading...


I think this is interesting, not only that I have found that to be my own experience, which is useful for diagnosing likely culprits in my own shot blunders, but also that I notice a lot of people who do bow reviews getting completely amazed how powerful or what have you their latest acquisition is, based not on direct measurements, but on how the bow needs a shockingly stiff arrow to tune.

It does not occur to them that in their excitement that they may be exagerrating the expansion or follow through, which can certainly cause more of a pluck.
Personally, I can do a really rough tune pretty quickly, though dialing stuff in, really, might take me weeks, or even months, as I acclimate to the bow. I have found, more than a few times, that in the long run, my best shooting form required a weaker dynamic spine than I had thought, often after cutting down all of my remaining shafts


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## Old Sarge (Sep 9, 2008)

One thing you need to check is nock fit. The SC arrows have very small nocks and if you have not reserved the string on the Sage the nock fit will be very tight. This in itself will give very false readings especially at only 10 feet. Go back to 10 yards and shoot and see where they impact in relation to the center of your target. A very tight nock will generally make them impact to the left (stiff).


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Of course, there are other variables... Arrow position relative to center shot, accessories, etc... But just saying....


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## sprinke (Jul 9, 2015)

Old Sarge said:


> One thing you need to check is nock fit. The SC arrows have very small nocks and if you have not reserved the string on the Sage the nock fit will be very tight. This in itself will give very false readings especially at only 10 feet. Go back to 10 yards and shoot and see where they impact in relation to the center of your target. A very tight nock will generally make them impact to the left (stiff).


I luckily have a friend who is very good at making strings and he made me one specifically for the SC arrows since the stock string that came with the Sage was far too big for the nock. The fit is not too tight. But thanks for the thought.


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

How are your arrow flying in general, not just up close? Do they fly nice and straight, no significant wobble or porpoising? From your post I assume you are relatively new to stickbows, all you really need is an arrow that is somewhat close to correct. Fletching cures a lot of ills. In other words, don't worry about tuning for now.

Besides, how do you know the issue you are seeing is a tuning issue and not a form or release issue?

In my opinion when you are ready to tune you should bite the bullet and strip some feathers off of a couple of arrows. I think bare shaft tuning is a lot easier and more efficient than trying to decipher little tears in paper. I also think trying to interpret how a fletched arrow sticks in a target a such a close range is equally futile.

Enjoy your bow and when you are ready do it right, otherwise you might waste a lot of time..http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html


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## sprinke (Jul 9, 2015)

Easykeeper said:


> How are your arrow flying in general, not just up close? Do they fly nice and straight, no significant wobble or porpoising? From your post I assume you are relatively new to stickbows, all you really need is an arrow that is somewhat close to correct. Fletching cures a lot of ills. In other words, don't worry about tuning for now.


They do not fly straight. There is some definite wobble/fishtail going on.



Easykeeper said:


> Besides, how do you know the issue you are seeing is a tuning issue and not a form or release issue?


I don't, which is why I asked what type of form issues might cause the same behavior, so I can examine myself and see if I'm the culprit. However ... I also have 25# limbs and a different set of arrows (weaker spine) for the Sage. Those do not fishtail.




Easykeeper said:


> In my opinion when you are ready to tune you should bite the bullet and strip some feathers off of a couple of arrows. I think bare shaft tuning is a lot easier and more efficient than trying to decipher little tears in paper. I also think trying to interpret how a fletched arrow sticks in a target a such a close range is equally futile.
> 
> Enjoy your bow and when you are ready do it right, otherwise you might waste a lot of time..http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html


Noted, thanks, Easykeeper!

BTW, I am not spending a lot of time worrying about this. I was just curious as to what I saw while practicing and wondering if there was something to learn from the AT collective wisdom. If there was something obvious I can correct, then I would be happy to work on it.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

sp - 

15' = 15 feet
by 15 yds, the fletch has already stabilized the arrow. 

You're right, don't over think it.

Viper1 out.


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## Bill 2311 (Jun 24, 2005)

If you have good form, I like bare shaft tuning at 15 and 20 yards.


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