# DeWalt chopsaw for cutting arrows



## Tommy petty (Sep 24, 2013)

I was looking into making an arrow cutting saw when it occurred to me that I have a 10" chop saw for wood and even have a fine tooth wood blade for cutting paneling. Would this work for an arrow cutting saw or are the blades on an arrow saw more of a metal cutting type of blade?


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## Axtell3 (Oct 18, 2009)

They are an abrasive blade. It's easy to make a saw with a dremel type tool.


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## Cotton-Eye (Oct 28, 2012)

Yup, carbide tipped blades won't do it. You'd need an abrasive blade. I also would never do it with a 10" saw (especially Dewalt). There is way too much blade wobble to give you a square cut on an arrow I would reckon.


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## Tommy petty (Sep 24, 2013)

Cotton-Eye said:


> Yup, carbide tipped blades won't do it. You'd need an abrasive blade. I also would never do it with a 10" saw (especially Dewalt). There is way too much blade wobble to give you a square cut on an arrow I would reckon.


Never considered blade wobble. Thanks. I do have a dremel I picked up at a garage sale. I've looked over YouTube for making an arrow saw but never found an example that seemed right. Are there any DIY arrow saws made with a dremel you all would recommend?


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## Lkyman (Jan 10, 2010)

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1186320


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## Tommy petty (Sep 24, 2013)

Thanks. Think I can do that. My dremel doesn't have the long handle thing but I should be able to mount it same way and lay arrow down and cut on the down stroke of the hinged dremel. If that makes sence. Instead of laying the arrow down onto the spinning wheel. Seems if the arrow is still it would make a more square cut. Seems being the operative word.


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## Lkyman (Jan 10, 2010)

You don't "chop" the arrow. The edge of the arrow touches the blade and you spin the arrow to cut through.


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## anteloperunner (Sep 19, 2012)

Harbor freight sells mini chop saw works great


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## Bowgod02 (Sep 18, 2006)

anteloperunner said:


> Harbor freight sells mini chop saw works great


I just made one using that saw and it works great. Found some abrasive cutoff wheels on eBay that fits it as well.


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## caspian (Jan 13, 2009)

here is a simple design I made for a friend when he was starting in archery and didn't have ready access to a shop. yes, the bench normally looks like that.

the tailstock was simply slit on a bandsaw to slide snugly on a piece of aluminium 90° angle. the clamp screw has been updated to a screw with a wingnut on the end for hand adjustment. he measures to length as required because the saw gets removed for other work, but it would be simple to permanently mount it (or at least mark it for reindexing) so a scale could be fitted to the base board - just glue a steel ruler down in the right place.

the shelf at the saw end is the right height to position the shaft level with the shaft of the saw, and the tailstock centre is offset towards the front of the board by the radius of the blade plus most of a shaft diameter so that when the shaft is in contact with the blade, it is parallel with the saw shaft and thus the cut is perpendicular to the arrow shaft.

the split clamp for the saw allows it to be used for other things. another way to go would be to semi permanently mount a shaft drive to the board and just couple the handpiece up as required.

total cost was effectively zero for a few bits of timber and angle that were lying around, and a few screws.

http://technorantia.blogspot.com.au/2010/05/arrow-saw-wot-merv-and-i-made.html


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## handirifle (Jun 9, 2005)

Personally I think you were on the right track with the chop saw, just not THAT chop saw. As suggested before the Harbor Freight chop saw is ideal. Think about it. When was the last time you saw a carpenter do finish carpentry with a table saw. They all use chop saws (miter saw) because they are not only handier, but more accurate, CONSISTANTLY! Holding the arrow perfectly square to the blade and bringing the blade perfectly square down to it, ends up with a square cut. No need for arrow squaring tool. It's already square.

Here's mine










For the blade I went to the local OSH hardware store and bought these.










The screw that holds the blade fits perfectly in the center of the abrasive blade. 
Make some test cuts with the saw to insure the 90 deg cut as adjusted is 90 deg, if not just adjust and lock it down. I just clamp my arrow in the provided clamp. I use a wood dowel for my test. Make sure the dowel is held level from back to front. A 9mm cartridge case holds my nock ends very well.


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## handirifle (Jun 9, 2005)

This is the nock end of mine. As you can see this is NOT a high dollar setup, it just works like one. Cuts all types of arrows fast and easy. The abrasive blade I showed also allows the factory blade cover to go back in place making it safer.


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## G-unit (Apr 11, 2013)

Is it just me or are the blades that come with the HF chop saw terrible? Mine kick back and won't cut through an arrow. About threw it in the trash. You guys replacing the blades immediately?
G


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## Praeger (Jan 7, 2011)

handirifle said:


> This is the nock end of mine. As you can see this is NOT a high dollar setup, it just works like one. Cuts all types of arrows fast and easy. The abrasive blade I showed also allows the factory blade cover to go back in place making it safer.


Cartridge casing to receive the nock. Great idea and original to boot. Maybe cut it down in case you needed to cut pre-fletched arrows. Also like how you cut slot for angle iron to ride on perforated L bracket.


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## Tommy petty (Sep 24, 2013)

Caspian, I think you and Mervyn would be fun to hang around and build stuff with. Thats a blast having someone to bounce ideas off of and just put stuff together. I like the saw you made also. Think I will incorporate a little of both of these ideas. I'm going to try to use the dremel method since I already have that and don't want to order a saw from HF. Think I can get the cutting blades at the local hardware shop. I was worried about the squaring off of the end of the arrow, but I can see the rolling of it would/should make it square. Love the casing trick also.


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## NP Archery (Jul 29, 2008)

Check the shaft run-out on the 10" and the HF and see for yourself which one is straighter. Even the cheep 10" saws will out cut a Harbor Freight mini all day long. Try a 6" THIN abrasive blade on the 10" saw and it will be as or more accurate than any mini saw out there.


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## bowhunterdave (Dec 1, 2005)

NP Archery said:


> Check the shaft run-out on the 10" and the HF and see for yourself which one is straighter. Even the cheep 10" saws will out cut a Harbor Freight mini all day long. Try a 6" THIN abrasive blade on the 10" saw and it will be as or more accurate than any mini saw out there.


As a finish carpenter by trade I agree with this statement.


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## huntnfishnut (Jan 12, 2011)

How much of a kerf you take out of an arrow using that big of a saw. Way overkill


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

huntnfishnut said:


> How much of a kerf you take out of an arrow using that big of a saw. Way overkill


Angle Grinder
and a THIN KERF grinding wheel, for cutting stainless steel.







3/64ths kerf


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## huntnfishnut (Jan 12, 2011)

With a 10" chop saw I would be concerned about the speed of the saw. You get some benefit at the edge blade, but most are max 5000 rpm. 

Also using an arm like that, would think it would be fairly easy to over exert and crush the tube.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

huntnfishnut said:


> With a 10" chop saw I would be concerned about the speed of the saw. You get some benefit at the edge blade, but most are max 5000 rpm.
> 
> Also using an arm like that, would think it would be fairly easy to over exert and crush the tube.



Not the RPMS to be concerned about.
Worry about RIM SPEED.

Weston Arrow Saw Blade.
8000 rpm.
3.5-inch BLADE.

RIM speed = 122 feet per second for the Weston Arrow saw, at 8000 rpm.


TYPICAL 10-inch Chop Saw.
5000 rpm.
10-inch BLADE.

RIM speed = 218 feet per second for the 10-inch chop saw at ONLY 5000 rpm.

The 10-inch CHOP saw is 80% FASTER rim speed,
when using a 10-inch blade.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

huntnfishnut said:


> With a 10" chop saw I would be concerned about the speed of the saw. You get some benefit at the edge blade, but most are max 5000 rpm.
> 
> Also using an arm like that, would think it would be fairly easy to over exert and crush the tube.


With ANY chop saw,
either a MINI-chop saw
or
a FULL size chop saw...

the arrow tube is NOT a 2x4...

you LIGHTLY touch the arrow shaft
and ROTATE the arrow shaft
to create a SCORING CUT,
say 1/64th deep (LIGHT TOUCH)
and then,
AFTER you have a scoring cut...

where you have rotated the shaft COMPLETELY several times,
then,
you increase pressure SLIGHTLY
to have the cut 50% through the THIN carbon walls
always rotating the shaft....

that's why
an arrow saw,
has a STATIONARY blade,
and you can use TWO hands to rotate the arrow....

MUCH easier than a chop saw style arrow saw.


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## huntnfishnut (Jan 12, 2011)

Thanks for clarifying. I have already built my own with the 10,000 rpm harbor freight saw, but was curious to join in.


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