# removing insert from carbon arrows



## Dwmills42 (Apr 25, 2014)

Hi I need to cut my carbon arrows down and i want to know if you can remove the insert by heating the arrow up with a small torch and pull the insert out. the inserts are recessed back inside the shaft the arrows were done at factory and i dont know if the adhesive they use is different than what the normal joe uses.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

Screw in a field point.
Heat the point for 10 seconds. Use pliers and pull. It will not pull out.
Heat the point for 10 seconds again. Pull with pliers. It will not pull out.
Heat the point for 10 seconds again. Pull with pliers. It will not pull out.
Heat the point for 10 seconds again. Pull with pliers. It will not pull out.
Heat the point for 10 seconds again. Pull with pliers. It will not pull out...or it might pull out a little bit.

Heat the point for 10 seconds again. Pull with pliers. It will not pull out...or it might pull out a little bit more.

If you can pull out the insert a little bit,
then,
just repeat this process and the residual heat in the field point will transfer enough to the insert
and you will be able to pull out the insert.

IF the insert will not budge,
then cool off the arrow by dipping into a cup of water...

and strip off the vanes
and cut the BACK end off.

Put the nock back in,
and refletch.


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## mt_elkhunter (Feb 28, 2010)

Don't heat the carbon. I'd put a field tip in and unscrew it a bit and heat that then try pulling out with a pliers


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## GRIMWALD (Sep 28, 2012)

You can also invest in(or make) an insert removal tool.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIto4WoZhjQ

GRIM


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## cjrich (Jan 15, 2012)

nuts&bolts said:


> and strip off the vanes
> and cut the BACK end off.
> 
> Put the nock back in,
> and refletch.


I'm a little concerned about applying heat to arrows so I use this method. Takes a bit more time but no heating required. 
If I break an arrow and want to salvage the insert I'll heat it up, pull the insert and discard the broken arrow.


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## waldopepper (Jul 29, 2014)

Unscrew the point. Find a long threaded rod w/nut or bolt with a head, of the same threads. Screw this in and pull out the insert the same way an axle is pulled form a car. Some sort of sliding weight on the bolt/threaded rod or a large washer to get a small ball peen on to. Don't clamp a carbon fiber shaft in a vise, clamp the bolt/thrRd. Or don't clamp, but use the vise loose with a large washer on the bolt/thrRd and rap the shaft back & forth. Hope this make some sense.
Good Luck


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## chacam (May 21, 2010)

I use a threaded rod heated very hot. Then spin the arrow on the rod and when the glue gets soft enough, the insert pops right out and the arrow doesn't hardly get hot.


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## treehermit (Nov 13, 2011)

I use cool flex, so I don't know if this works with everything. I leave the tip in and stick the end of the arrow in a cup of hot water for a minute or so, then grab the tip with a pair of pliers and pull it out. I have also removed the nock and from the backside inserted 4 sections of a .22 cal ram-rod and popped it out. Some use a drill bit placed inside backwards and whip the arrow but you need to pay attention where everything will fly!


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## sam4836 (Dec 16, 2005)

Take the nock out, slide a drill bit a little smaller than the arrow in and gently sling it so the bit comes up a bit then hits the back of the insert. Best of all, no heat


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## dsal (Dec 24, 2008)

sam4836 said:


> Take the nock out, slide a drill bit a little smaller than the arrow in and gently sling it so the bit comes up a bit then hits the back of the insert. Best of all, no heat


:thumbs_up best way


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## beaverman (Jun 21, 2008)

How much are you cutting off the arrows?


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## Isiman4/ OH (Jul 1, 2009)

Just cut the back end, problem solved.


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## Dwmills42 (Apr 25, 2014)

Thanks for all the input the one post that was the most helpfull was the video I used that as my idea I used my soldering iron and heated the glue from Inside the shaft. KUDUS for the manufacture that came up with that.


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## pointndog (Jul 14, 2005)

Take the nock out of the end and find a drill bit that just barely fits in side the shaft. Put it in backwards and sling the arrow down to wards the floor. it will start moving unless a really bad glue bond and in that case watch out. When it starts getting to the end start doing it slower and make sure you are somewhere where it can hit the floor. The insert and drill bit will come out with some force.

This works great have used this method 100's of times. 

Key thing is make sure the drill bit barely fits. If you get a drill bit with to much slop you can hurt the wall of the shaft at the end of the insert.


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## b0w_bender (Apr 30, 2006)

Dwmills42 said:


> Thanks for all the input the one post that was the most helpfull was the video I used that as my idea I used my soldering iron and heated the glue from Inside the shaft. KUDUS for the manufacture that came up with that.


I have to say I like this soldering iron conversion idea, I've spent 30 min with a drill bit in the past and still not able to get the insert out. I use the blue melt glue as well so the iron looks like a quick and easy system. Thanks for sharing that.


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## Pittstate23 (Dec 27, 2010)

yep, do not heat carbon, heat the feild tip. i use hot melt, which is super easy, requires very little heat.


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## trackboss (Feb 16, 2010)

I just shortened some shafts for myself last weekend. They were originally cut and assembled way too long from an archery shop who apparently doesn't know how to measure. Anyway, I simply cut the nock end. No need for new inserts or any chance of damaging shaft. FWIW, I have read somewhere that cutting arrow shafts from both ends may possibly make them straighter. The reason was that the runout was more in the ends than the middle. Whether that is true or not I don't know, but mine seem to fly really well.


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## BaMBaM_77 (Oct 21, 2013)

May be obvious to most. But I removed so by cutting first then got the scrap piece of carbon red hot and the insert pulled right outit was not a recessed insert though


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## Strings100 (Apr 5, 2009)

Isiman4/ OH said:


> Just cut the back end, problem solved.


My son-in-law came up with the soldering iron idea years ago, did a poor mans patent, and should of sold the idea. Anyway, it workéd for us for what we were doing. But, common sense kick-in. But still a good idea for aluminum. Why not you just pull the knock, cut off you need, re-fetch the arrow if needed, and you are done. No need to worry about damaging the carbon fiber.


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## firecapt793 (Mar 26, 2013)

sam4836 said:


> Take the nock out, slide a drill bit a little smaller than the arrow in and gently sling it so the bit comes up a bit then hits the back of the insert. Best of all, no heat


Tried the drill bit method today. Worked great for me and no risk of damaging the carbon. Thanks!!!!!!


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## cjrich (Jan 15, 2012)

firecapt793 said:


> Tried the drill bit method today. Worked great for me and no risk of damaging the carbon. Thanks!!!!!!


This method is OK if you want to cut your arrows down quite a bit. I tried this method when I needed to cut my arrow down by only an inch or so, and found that the glue residue left inside the shaft prevented me from re-installing the insert after being cut down. For small cut downs, I'll be reverting back to cutting the back end and re-fletching.


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

I use the method of heating a field point, unscrew using PLIERS about 3 or 4 threads, heat with butane mini torch for a few seconds (more at first) and try to pull without heating the actual carbon... you'll know when you cook the carbon as the threads will peel off and feelings are hurt in the process.


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