# Making cuts in the vanes to shoot them off the shelf?



## oldnewby (Oct 13, 2015)

I have seen a couple of references to making cuts in vanes in order to be able to shoot them off the shelf of a recurve, with no elevated rest. Fellow who made a youtube video displayed carbon arrows in which he had made parallel cuts in each vane, about 1/4 inch apart, slanting backward at about a 45-degree angle. He claimed that when the arrows were shot off the shelf, this mimicked the action of feathers, folding up (so to speak) when the vanes pass the shelf, so that the arrow is not bumped when the vanes fail to completely clear the shelf. He claimed it had no significant effect on the aerodynamic functioning of the vanes. Has anyone heard of this before? Do you know whether there is any validity to it?


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## Fury90flier (Jun 27, 2012)

I've tried it but they didn't fly very well.

Why don't you just use feathers?


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## oldnewby (Oct 13, 2015)

Fury90flier: Thanks for your reply. Feathers are more expensive and seem to be less durable. If the cutting-the-vanes trick doesn't work well, I would use vanes and an elevated rest (a Bear Weather Rest) on the Bear recurve that I am setting up. (But some bows, such as the Hoyt Buffalo, evidently don't accommodate any sort of elevated rest, so if the cutting-the-vanes thing doesn't work, that means feathers only.)


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## Sauk Mountain (Aug 3, 2015)

Does "seem to be less durable" mean that you've experienced them to be less durable, or that you read that they are or someone told you that? Reason I ask is because a lot of people on bowhunting forums that aren't trad specific will tell you the horror stories of feathers, and I can say that I've never experienced all of these reported shortcomings. I dug up an old Game Getter from underneath the grass in the yard that had been there so long the field point had about a 1/16" coating of rust on it. Once I washed the dirt outta the feathers and shook it dry, the arrow and feathers were fine, the field point couldn't be removed without pliers. 

Same with aluminum arrows, some folks will have you believing that if you sneeze and they're close by they're gonna bend and be useless.


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## Jim Casto Jr (Aug 20, 2002)

If you're arrows are properly tuned you may be able to get enough clearance with vanes by rotating your nock. It may be worth trying. Cock feather in, cock feather 12: o'clock, cock feather 6 o'clock, etc.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Guys - 

If you're anywhere near a decent shooter, feathers are incredibly less durable than vanes and certainly less expensive. 
A bigger problem with vanes, depending on head weight, is that larger ones can weigh as much as 3 - 4 times that of feathers, effectively moving the FOC back far enough to cause issues with stabilization. (More of an issue with light heads.)

As far as cutting slits in the vanes, sounds pretty dumb to me, but everybody on youtube thinks they have an ace in the hole. 
Think about it, if your rig is tuned correctly the size or stiffness of the vanes shouldn't really matter, since the entire shaftment (tail end of the arrow) will be off the shelf laterally as it passes. (That's also why the guys who find a benefit shooting cock feather in are missing something.)

With slits in plastic vanes, anyone who has tried that know that the opposing edges won't stay opposing for very long and depending on the angle, might snag something like air (resistance) or part of the rug. 

Remember, to post a video on youtube, all you need is cell phone and an account.

Viper1 out.


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## Basstar (Aug 9, 2008)

I am not an aeronautical engineer and by no means any kind of archery expert but the thing about feathers is that they are attached in line as one unit, designed for flight, and offer controlled guidance of the arrow.

My initial thought of a vane with slits is that instead of guiding the arrow smoothly, each of the slits would flutter in the wind so to speak with no continuity and perhaps little to no guidance.

But what the heck do I know?


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## Ringlight (May 5, 2015)

Feathers do not have to be pristine in order for the arrow to hit the target.


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

Sounds loud to me already and I haven't even heard one shot yet.

It also sounds like the sort of move one might make when they really want feathers but have vanes and no fletching jig.

Bohning made a similar attempt with their "Impulse Vanes" that were made of a rubbery material (that would yield to rest/shelf impacts) to assimilate feathers but they sort of flopped because they were both heavier and less effective than feathers as the same yield that allowed them to flex on impacts allowed them to flex during flight.

I'm seeing a pattern developing here.


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## bcsportsman (Jul 11, 2013)

Again I'm no expert but one of my best flying arrows is one I shot into a pond (due to my inexperience) and recovered a few weeks later when the water dropped. The feathers are ugly and all misshaped. But she still flies true. Also the few more cents you spend per vane/feather I wouldn't think to be enough to break anyone's pocket book. Now if looks is what your after than any can become expensive.


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

I'm with Jinkster, they sound like they would be really loud. 

If I were the original poster I'd just stick with feathers or put a rest on your bow. 

In some ways they may be more fragile than vanes, but on the other hand ratty old torn up feathers still fly fine, and quietly too. When I used to shoot vanes (compound) it seemed like any nick in them would make them sound like a dozen teal buzzing the decoys. I'll admit I just plain like feathers, but they do make life simpler.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Slit or slightlydetached vanes can be great noise makers!

Feathers can get pretty thrashed and still function, as well as ever as far as I can tell. If your feathers are getting torn up quickly, and not from tight grouping, might be a tuning issue, or a matter of nock rotation.


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## GEREP (May 6, 2003)

If your arrows are anywhere close to being properly tuned, and you turn cock feather in, you should have no trouble shooting vanes off the shelf.

Here is are some videos that I did a while back in order to illustrate how to do a "lipstick test" in order to see if you are experiencing any vane contact with the shelf or side plate.






By rubbing lipstick on the outer edge of each vane, it will be very easy to tell if contact is being made and where.






By turning the cock feather toward the riser, it brings the lower hen feather to the outer edge of the shelf and makes it much easier to pass by without making contact.

I realize that any dummy with a phone and a YouTube account can post a video, but this is what actually works for me in the real world.

KPC


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## Azzurri (Mar 10, 2014)

Ringlight said:


> Feathers do not have to be pristine in order for the arrow to hit the target.


Heck I consider two feather arrows (once you've shot off or unzipped ones) perfectly shootable at indoor type distances or shorter. Wouldn't go with them in a tournament but that distance no wind they'll fly pretty much the same place.

I'd think that he'd have integrity/alignment/wind resistance issues if he completely cut through the vane -- falling apart, acting like flaps, flaps not necessarily aligned anymore, catch more wind -- and still be dealing with the "catching" issue if it was chopped down but left intact in a single piece. You get away with it with feathers because it's a collective of little soft tendrils composing a feather, giving way to the shelf or rest, which I'd think you could not imitate with a vane no matter how thin you slice it. It's still going to be rubbery pieces of plastic designed for aerodynamic reasons to be integral and somewhat hard.

My experience is vanes shoot awful off a shelf, and big picture it kind of feels like trying to straddle a divide unnecessarily. If you're already to the point of shooting carbons with vanes I don't get why you'd resist putting a rest on it too -- even if just a Hoyt cheap one -- since you're already headed down the modern/accurate road. I wouldn't want to hand the positive aspects of carbons back by shooting them off a shelf.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

I have seen a setup shooting off the shelf where cock vane in resolved a clearance issue. I Could have told her that shhe just was doing it wrong, but simply reversing the arrow worked too


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## Easykeeper (Jan 2, 2003)

BarneySlayer said:


> I have seen a setup shooting off the shelf where cock vane in resolved a clearance issue. *I Could have told her that shhe just was doing it wrong, but simply reversing the arrow worked too*


In my experience telling her she was doing it wrong would not have worked out in your favor...:wink:


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Matt - 

I don't really understand your comments.
A good shooter, who groups tightly can chew up a fresh fletching job in a few weeks. 
A less proficient shooter, with wider groups simply doesn't have the same problem. 

I believe that cutting a slits in a plastic vane is pretty dumb and I explained why.
If you have experience otherwise, I'd like to hear about it, since I've been using vanes for indoor and outdoor shooting for some time, due to the aforementioned cost and durability issues. 
Basically with vanes, arrow on arrow violence results in a lost vane, as opposed to feathers where you're never quite sure when they are tattered enough to affect accuracy.

Viper1 out.


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## benofthehood (May 18, 2011)

Viper1 said:


> Matt -
> 
> I don't really understand your comments.
> A good shooter, who groups tightly can chew up a fresh fletching job in a few weeks.
> ...


I know a bunch of indoor bare bow shooters and to a person they shoot feathers indoors .

You must be shooting dandy groups - any photo's or tourney pics ? 

And feathers tattered enough to affect accuracy ? You shoot vanes for cost and durability ?

Where abouts do you shoot ?

I shoot vanes on some rigs because I hunt in the rain and set up my bows accordingly.

and btw - your response is very condescending -


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

ben -

I know a bunch of good indoor shooters who believe that using 5" feathers help as well, and they accept the fact that regular refletching goes with the territory. Did that for a while myself. It just to be too expensive and too much work refletching every night. Again, I'm talking about people at the 290/300 level. Going through a 100 bag of nocks a year (or more) is also par for the course. Obviously I'm talking about Olympic style shooters and our definition of "good" may be a little different that yours. 

I've told people were "I shoot" on several occasions, and the invite to shoot with me is always open. 
Believe it or not, a few people have taken me up on the offer, and I think they are shooting better because of it. 

I also think you're misinterpreting what I'm writing.

Viper1 out.


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## weirdjack (Jan 15, 2014)

> arrow on arrow violence


I'll have to remember that catchy phrase, I like it! 
Stop the violence....oh the humanity (arrow-anity?) !


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

Viper1 said:


> Matt -
> 
> I don't really understand your comments.
> A good shooter, who groups tightly can chew up a fresh fletching job in a few weeks.
> ...


Tony, spot on! For many years I have shot and ran league that is predominately compound shooters. So, on any given night I am on the bale with 3 compound shooters, 1 target. Yes, they might get a hole in a vane on a regular basis, but by the end I'm left with very few fletch intact on any arrow. Most times, I know it's my arrow slapped by the cloud of feather dropping from the target on impact. I didn't have any problem following you, as I have shot nothing but feathers for a long time. Vanes are good where I want to use them, though, but I like feathers. The only exception I would have is that my Mylar vanes are more maintenance than any other, but they are good fletch for purpose.

A cut vane is very loud and cut plastic doesn't stay in lay like feathers - unlike animal feathers, plastic lacks the natural Velcro effect to keep them all together.


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

As an extremely competitive and state ranked NFAA/FAA finger shooting archer decades ago?...

You couldn't find a vaned arrow in any quivers of the top 20% shooting in my classification.

Why?...simple....

It wasn't because any of us lacked the skills to get vanes to tune and clear our bows/rests cleanly...we all could...but what we knew was this....

A slight error in our release with feathers would result in a slightly off shot...but the same with vanes?...

Might find you searching for your arrow at anything much over 50yds and we shot out to 80yds.

That's the difference.

My question is...why doesn't Viper1 recognize this?


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Matt- 

Seriously buddy, you're reading much more into my typing than is really there. 
I also think you're giving me more credit than I deserve, I don't have the authority to have anything "pulled" here or anywhere else. 

Having shot "trad" for about 35 years, before it was trad, I don't think disdain would be accurate.
I do think that a lot of the newer trad types are selling themselves short of what a "trad" bow can do with even a little training. 

I don't know what the problem with a sight is either. Before trad was a word, more people used a sight than not, heck, even the only matches Fred Bear won were with a sight. I do find that sometimes some folks go to great lengths to not use one or at least claim their not using one for soom reason. 
IMHO, it's just too good a tool not to have in your arsenal. 
Quite honestly, I know I'm a better shooter for it. 

Viper1 out.


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

JINKSTER said:


> As an extremely competitive and state ranked NFAA/FAA finger shooting archer decades ago?...
> 
> You couldn't find a vaned arrow in any quivers of the top 20% shooting in my classification.
> 
> ...


Jinks, I don't think anyone would argue that vanes are less forgiving to interference bumps. That's the reason we state feathers over vanes off the shelf. I think this whole thread was on durability, especially to crowded impact zones. You are off into a different topic altogether which no one raised an issue with. 

As to distance shooting, do you have any "personal" experience as to what top finger shooters are using at tournaments? I've shot a lot, and unless the situation or equipment dictated better, feathers were never the top choice by the top finger shooters. Vanes or spinwings will maintain better trajectory at long distances.


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

Actually Sanford?...originally this thread had NOTHING to do with "durability" or trajectory" but did have everything to do with exactly what I addressed in response to this...the O.P.....



oldnewby said:


> I have seen a couple of references to making cuts in vanes in order to be able to shoot them off the shelf of a recurve, with no elevated rest. Fellow who made a youtube video displayed carbon arrows in which he had made parallel cuts in each vane, about 1/4 inch apart, slanting backward at about a 45-degree angle. He claimed that when the arrows were shot off the shelf, this mimicked the action of feathers, folding up (so to speak) when the vanes pass the shelf, so that the arrow is not bumped when the vanes fail to completely clear the shelf. He claimed it had no significant effect on the aerodynamic functioning of the vanes. Has anyone heard of this before? Do you know whether there is any validity to it?


And it didn't get spun off topic until others started discussing "durability"

Amazing how things get spun when we focus on discrediting others....isn't it?

Fortunately those who stir the pot often times get to lick the spoon. 

Have a nice day.


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

oldnewby said:


> I have seen a couple of references to making cuts in vanes in order to be able to shoot them off the shelf of a recurve, with no elevated rest. Fellow who made a youtube video displayed carbon arrows in which he had made parallel cuts in each vane, about 1/4 inch apart, slanting backward at about a 45-degree angle. He claimed that when the arrows were shot off the shelf, this mimicked the action of feathers, folding up (so to speak) when the vanes pass the shelf, so that the arrow is not bumped when the vanes fail to completely clear the shelf. He claimed it had no significant effect on the aerodynamic functioning of the vanes. Has anyone heard of this before? Do you know whether there is any validity to it?


This is not going to "mimic" a feather. You'd have to "design" a plastic feather for this to "mimic" this action of a feather which does a lot for an arrow but that is maybe not completely necessary to spin the arrow with an intact vane.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Tom - 

I've see those plastic "fake" feathers, mostly on kiddie arrow. 
I think the reason there was looks/cost.

Viper1 out.


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

JINKSTER said:


> Actually Sanford?...originally this thread had NOTHING to do with "durability" or trajectory" but did have everything to do with exactly what I addressed in response to this...the O.P.....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No, no pots to stir here. Matt and Viper were talking about durability, and that's where I clarified that you in fact were correct if we were talking about interference. You were referencing players from that conversation, not the OP, and I'm sure Viper knows rubber bounces harder than feathers. I did raise issue with your assessment of who uses feathers and why. I would say the barebow shooters might prefer feathers, but I would assign their choice more to maintaining certain point on sight trajectories or dealing with greater variance in bow dynamics over simply worrying about the occasional err in release as your Google search revealed to you.


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

Viper1 said:


> Tom -
> 
> I've see those plastic "fake" feathers, mostly on kiddie arrow.
> I think the reason there was looks/cost.
> ...


Hi Tony... There is just something about "plastic" that.. .well you know... :grin:


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Tony,

I understand where you're coming from, but thought I would bring something to your attention, which is possibly the major point that put things off track.

Suggesting that a 'decent' shooter is going to have durability problems with feathers, by definition says that if somebody isn't having fletching issues with feathers, they're below a decent level of skill.

I'm glad you qualified what you meant. 

If you're talking about a skill level that regularly scores in the 290-300 range on an NFAA blue face target at 20 yards, I would consider that _exceptionally_ good with NFAA designated 'Trad' equipment. If you can do that, that's awesome, but I don't think it is a level of performance that should be required for 'decent.' Just my opinion, of course

Also, with the issue of tuning vanes to work off the shelf, I don't know if it is reasonable to expect anybody short of an expert to tune arrows to not only fly straight off the bow, but do so such that ANY vane orientation, with ANY vane, will entirely miss the shelf consistently, particularly since some shelves are wider than others. While you or other people you know may be able to do it, I don't think that advocating feathers or rotating the cock vane towards the riser is a bad idea. You might also point how that we could just use an elevated rest and be done with it. What if we don't want to?

That's all. I do appreciate your expertise and input, but I also think that you might be missing where a lot of us are really coming from. It's not that we're ignorant, but rather, we have different priorities.


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## benofthehood (May 18, 2011)

BarneySlayer said:


> Tony,
> * It's not that we're ignorant, but rather, we have different priorities.*


I'll buy you a beer - well played.:beer:


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## Jim Casto Jr (Aug 20, 2002)

BarneySlayer said:


> ... Also, with the issue of tuning vanes to work off the shelf, I don't know if it is reasonable to expect anybody short of an expert to tune arrows to not only fly straight off the bow, but do so such that ANY vane orientation, with ANY vane, will entirely miss the shelf consistently...
> .



Barney,

I've noticed that most "trad" guys simply shoot arrows that are waaaaay too stiff to begin with. Heck, I do it myself sometimes on heavier hunting rigs. That's why (and you're right), if you're close in spine, changing the nock/fletching orientation is not a bad idea and may be all you need to do to make a slightly stiff arrow clear the shelf.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Barney -

Agree and disagree. 

Sure, priorities are going to be different and fine and expected. In my case, yeah I used to tear a lot of feathers and bust a lot of nocks, goes with the territory. But even two random arrows slapping each other is going to give fletch damage, as is going through a soggy wet bale. Vanes, while not without problems are more durable across the board. When people ask me how to water proof feathers, I tell them to switch to vanes. 

Now, the tuning thing - that gets a little iffy. You don't have to be an Olympian to tune a bow and conversely most trad guys don't need Olympic level tuning. The distances and required precision just aren't that great. If that sounds condescending to some, it's a fact - deal with it. I don't tune my trad bows to same degree as I do for a 70M bow, just like I don't do the same case prep for off-hand rifle ammo as I would for 1,000 yard gun. 

I don't expect or suggest a new shooter to start tuning the first week he's shooting, but after 6 months to a year, well maybe. Again, I'm talking basic stuff, not walk-back tuning. If you recall I outlined 4 or 5 stages of tuning a while back, it's not hard to fit the tune to the need and the ability of the shooter. 

Now, there's no sin in a new shooter starting with arrows that are slightly or even very stiff, but after a while ... maybe he should know better. 

Viper1 out.


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## AkDan76 (Sep 5, 2014)

you need to find Bill Matlocks tuning manual. He has a section in it regarding shooting solid vanes off the shelf. It CAN be done, though I don't care to do it. Baby bottle liners and if you can find a bottle of rain and stain is all I've ever needed and I've hunted in some awfully wet places! A bottle of rain and stain will last you a LONG time! (obviously lol)


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## Bender (Dec 6, 2006)

Spend several additional hours beating myself up to eliminate that last nagging bit of fletch interference?

OR

Spend less than a second to flip an arrow over, shoot it cock feather in, eliminate all fletch interference, and thereby solve the problem?

I'm confused. Maybe I am missing something?


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

Bender said:


> Spend several additional hours beating myself up to eliminate that last nagging bit of fletch interference?
> 
> OR
> 
> ...



You and me both! LOL!

The cure for plastic vane interference is take the one that sticks straight out away from the bow and reverse it so it's dead center with the wall of the riser?

and that's the miracle cure? 

If anyone can achieve that (and I know some claim they have)...I figure one or many not to good other things are happening that makes that work for them such as....

1. Their arrow spine resembles over cooked spaghetti.

2. Their release blows so bad it's sending the nock end way west of the riser upon release.

and/or...

3. Their bow arm is headed due east at the same time.

But can it be done?....yep...should it be recommended to anyone?

Even I don't have the gumption to answer that last one though I know what the answer is! :laugh:

Furthermore?...Imagine advising someone with a pristine vintage Tamerlane or a high end custom Blacktail that shooting vanes off their bow instead of feathers is a great idea. 

Some folks get away with stuff because there's some underlying glitch in their form or equipment or?....their arrows are so heavy and their bows poundage is so high it simply doesn't affect them in the same way it would and does affect many others but when the bows finish is all marred up (or even worn through) will the same folks who recommended such take credit for it? 

What competitive "Trad Archer" shooting "Off-The-Shelf" ever won anything shooting vanes?...none that I know of and if they did?...from what I'm aware of they'd be challenged for the win...why?...because the rules of most organizations I'm aware of specify..."Feathers"

That's sort of "Telling" right there...isn't it? :laugh:

The only positive point of argument I can see for anyone advising anyone to use vanes off the shelf (or even shooting fingers off an elevated rest) would be...

"Shooting in Wet Conditions"

and long before I'd personally advise that anyone go with vanes?...I'd highly suggest a bottle a bottle of this...










(NOTE: I guess I "Google Searched" that one up too huh Sanford? LOL! How do you like my new DAS Elite? LOL!)

and as you might guess by the $4.99 price tag?....this particular bottle (still in it's blister pack) is well over 25 years old as I used the stuff religiously...competing extensively throughout the state of Florida decades ago?...this stuff was standard kit in my box for the mid-noon showers you could almost set your watch by and it works great....pouring down rain and my feathers looked (and flew) like they just came out of the package. 

L8R, Bill. :cool2:


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## Matt_Potter (Apr 13, 2010)

Bender said:


> Spend several additional hours beating myself up to eliminate that last nagging bit of fletch interference?
> 
> OR
> 
> ...


No your just dumb ;-)


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## Bender (Dec 6, 2006)

Matt_Potter said:


> No your just dumb ;-)


And proud of it too!

:jam:


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Bender said:


> And proud of it too!
> 
> :jam:


One of the reasons he is one of my favorite converstionalists at shoots 

Our ideas match in calibre, and we can laugh about it.


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

JINKSTER said:


> You and me both! LOL!
> 
> The cure for plastic vane interference is take the one that sticks straight out away from the bow and reverse it so it's dead center with the wall of the riser?
> 
> ...


IN MY OPINION..... the only cure for plastic vane interference off the shelf is an elevated rest or feathers. Besides fletch dry, there are numerous avenues to keeping feathers dry in the rain... the most obvious is to get out of it... treatment of mink oil or similar... or boots.

In my opinion... :grin: :thumbs_up


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

6


rattus58 said:


> IN MY OPINION..... the only cure for plastic vane interference off the shelf is an elevated rest or feathers. Besides fletch dry, there are numerous avenues to keeping feathers dry in the rain... the most obvious is to get out of it... treatment of mink oil or similar... or boots.
> 
> In my opinion... :grin: :thumbs_up


Amen Brother Rattus...word on the street is some archers even waterproof their feathers by hosing them down with aerosol hair spray.


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## Matt_Potter (Apr 13, 2010)

BarneySlayer said:


> One of the reasons he is one of my favorite converstionalists at shoots
> 
> Our ideas match in calibre, and we can laugh about it.


Anyone who came up with the nickname cupcake boy ain't all bad.


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

> (NOTE: I guess I "Google Searched" that one up too huh Sanford? LOL! How do you like my new DAS Elite? LOL!)


Jinks, I think we agreed that the general consensus on fletch v. vanes off most shelf-shot bows was correct. And, not being in any wet fletch conversation, I'm not sure why parties unrelated to your conversations are being mixed into your posts again, but I agree if we are getting back to durability and in that feathers are less durable around moisture and need special care in the rain v. vanes.

I had only mentioned the Google thing because I recalled that you had only been in the woods once with a bow and never with a Trad set up and never shot competition with Trad, so your practical knowledge must have come from somewhere. Kudos on the adding the bottle of Fletch-Dry to your collection of archer stuff.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Maybe good time to hit the no fault civility reset button.

I like laughing as much as anybody else, but there's always the possibility that somebody takes a careless remark seriously, has a blood pressure spike, and BAAM, we're getting a notification . new widow that _____ really loved archery talk and all of his good friends....

I had to scroll to the top to remember the original topic.

To summarize the relevant that I've seen....

Slitting not a great idea. You can try nock rotation, cock feather in, it costs nothing.

If that doesn't work, consider either elevated rest or feathers.

Choose whatever makes you happy


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## rattus58 (Jul 9, 2007)

JINKSTER said:


> 6
> 
> Amen Brother Rattus...word on the street is some archers even waterproof their feathers by hosing them down with aerosol hair spray.


Well let me ask the sis in law what hairspray she uses... you could stabilize a weather vane wit it.... and probably not find it helpful on a fletch... but I think ifn I had nothing else... nothing ventured.. and that sort of thing... :grin: :thumbs_up


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## grantmac (May 31, 2007)

Lets just back up here a second.

First thing:
If you can get an ultra-high profile feather to clear then chances are you can get a very low profile vane to clear. The lowest profile I can think of is an Impulse which despite some earlier comments is actually one of the best finger shooting glue-on vanes I've ever used. Maybe not the most durable but very nice to shoot. I used the 3" with field points but I know someone who has tuned the 4" with a fixed broadhead. He was using a rest though, but cock vane in I could see them doing fine with good tuning.

Second:
Every national set of trad rules either has no reference to fletching or simply requires a given length (4" I believe). I know of at least one fairly successful IBO shooter who has used low profile vanes off the shelf.

That said for competitive use I use feathers indoor and would do the same for 3D. They simply tolerate intentional miss tuning better, something the best shooters consider just another tool in the bag.

For longer range shooting there are better options however and since I keep my WA setup the same for 3D and field that means running a low profile vane on skinny arrows.

Grant


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## JINKSTER (Mar 19, 2011)

grantmac said:


> Lets just back up here a second.
> 
> Second:
> Every national set of trad rules either has no reference to fletching or simply requires a given length (4" I believe).
> ...


I stand corrected and Grant is correct here....I know...I just double checked them all...don't know what to say 'cept....sorry...my bad...thought I read feathers and no mention of vanes...can I play my "Senior Moment" card?


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