# Horrible Issues Tuning a PSE Axe 6



## jrp (Nov 4, 2009)

This bow does not want to paper tune properly, I've done everything.
I can't get it to tune in general for arrows, something is wrong with the Draw, when I pull back all seems good then about 5 inches before all the way draw back it gets a lot harder, which I think is causing my bottom cam to lean.

I am just about jump off a bridge because of this bow.
Any setup guides or videos anyone can provide for tuning and setting up a PSE AXE properly?? Before I do jump off a bridge?? 

Jon


----------



## jrp (Nov 4, 2009)




----------



## Nitroboy (Jan 15, 2006)

Draw sounds like its pulling normal, but make sure all your mod screws to make sure your mods havent moved any, Another thing don't put alot of thought into paper it just a starting point for some, I don't use paper no need for it IMHO, but If its a hunting bow just walkback tune and then broadhead tune to get your FP/BH hitting same POI, now only way that will work right is if your arrow spine is right so you may have to add or subtract weight on the arrow tip or add or subtract draw weight, Another way is you can bareshaft tune also, all of those will yeild you better results in the longrun than trying to use your bow has a high dollar hole punch


I have 4 bows in my shop right now with all having a slight degree of bottom cam lean, but all will group FP/BH out to 70yds with ease at the same POI, so i don't think thats your issue


----------



## coloradodave (Oct 1, 2005)

Either send me a picture or post pics here of your bottom cam then your top cam. I would like to see the draw modules and string stop settins. show us the side that has the letters on it. The send picks of the other side. Something aint right. My Axe shoots like a dream and yours should too.

Lets figure this out. Start with the pics.


----------



## coloradodave (Oct 1, 2005)

Disclaimer: I am not a PSE guy or even a bow mechanic. I simply do all my own work and build my own strings. I have never been able to not tune a bow. I don't claim to know everything.

Just trying to help a brother out.

I'll bet we (AT'ers) can figure this out.


----------



## coloradodave (Oct 1, 2005)

From what you described about it being hard to pull...sounds to me like there is a problem witht he way the strings stops and mods are set. Like you are not getting enough (or any) valley.


----------



## jrp (Nov 4, 2009)

Pictures will be posted in a few mins.


----------



## jrp (Nov 4, 2009)

Pictures of my cams/mods


----------



## jrip (May 19, 2008)

Post your bows specs here, DL, DW, rest type, arrow specs etc...


----------



## jrp (Nov 4, 2009)

55 lbs, 28 dl, easton st epics 400s, 100g tip, qad hd


----------



## jrip (May 19, 2008)

Take the string stop off and run a straight edge from cam to cam, a 36"-48" level will work. Is there any obvious cam lean?


----------



## coloradodave (Oct 1, 2005)

Jon, 

I know you're going to take it to the dealer tomorrow, but before you do:

Take a tape measure and measure the axle to axle length first on the arrow side, then measure the axle to axle length on the opposite side.

What are the measurements?

Are the measurements very close to 32 1/2"? Mine measures a shade over.

Then measure the brace hieight. From the deepest part of the throat of the grip to the string. What is the measurement? 

Mine measures exactly 6" to the back of the string. 

When I first got my bow these measurements were way off. I set these specifications on mine before I did anything else to my bow.

Then I timed the cams and THEN I started the nock, rest, peep set-up.

I just assumed these measurements were set to spec on your bow before we talked set-up.

If your bow is set to factory specs, you are right to take it to the dealer, especially what you described to me about the bottom cam.

But if the bow is NOT in spec, it CAN cause a lot of heartache trying to tune it.

Don't leave us hanging, let us know what the dealer says about the bow.


----------



## coloradodave (Oct 1, 2005)

I looked at the pics again, and it looks like something isn't quite right with the the bearing on the bottom cam on the right side.

Of course, it could be the angle of the pic, but maybe the bearing is broken allowing the cam to twist? 

This could also cause your "wiggling" and hard to draw.


----------



## jrp (Nov 4, 2009)

ata 32 and 5/8 to be exact 

brace height exactly 6 on the outside of the string

I might send it to a pse dealer on here i've been talking to his name is: Scottie/PA

Good guy, need some vouchs though :wink:

I'll let you know everything that goes on trust me, I post every problem and fix on AT. 





coloradodave said:


> Jon,
> 
> I know you're going to take it to the dealer tomorrow, but before you do:
> 
> ...


----------



## coloradodave (Oct 1, 2005)

jrp said:


> ata 32 and 5/8 to be exact
> 
> brace height exactly 6 on the outside of the string
> 
> ...


Good luck Jon, I hope everything works out.


----------



## musclefreak (Jan 18, 2009)

Excessive cable guard deflection can cause your bottom cam lean issue(if your cam is tipped towards the cable guard side of the riser), as well as improperly installed limbs, ie; wrong orientation of limbs. highest deflection # should be on the shelf side of the riser, both of these need to be rectified, or at least checked. Hope this helps!


----------



## jrp (Nov 4, 2009)

Still will not paper tune to save my life.


----------



## Nitroboy (Jan 15, 2006)

jrp said:


> Still will not paper tune to save my life.


I am telling you save yourself some headache and ditch the paper, Walkback tune with FP and then BH tune or bareshaft and see where that gets you, bow will probly shoot awesome. Just cause it won't shoot through paper doesn't mean its not tuned, Most bows shoot better anyways with a slight tear, All my bows I have will not punch a perfect bullethole, but you can bet your sweet dollar they all will shoot FP and BH at the exact same POI out to 70 yds or bareshaft out to 40- 50yds, and they will group tight to boot


----------



## jrp (Nov 4, 2009)

Nitroboy said:


> I am telling you save yourself some headache and ditch the paper, Walkback tune with FP and then BH tune or bareshaft and see where that gets you, bow will probly shoot awesome. Just cause it won't shoot through paper doesn't mean its not tuned, Most bows shoot better anyways with a slight tear, All my bows I have will not punch a perfect bullethole, but you can bet your sweet dollar they all will shoot FP and BH at the exact same POI out to 70 yds or bareshaft out to 40- 50yds, and they will group tight to boot


aight aight aight, I'm going to take your word on it, and walkback tune it tomorrow when that bright circular thing rises again. :shade:

Any other test I shall perform while you have me walkback tuning it, Sir?
:wink:


----------



## jrip (May 19, 2008)

jrp said:


> aight aight aight, I'm going to take your word on it, and walkback tune it tomorrow when that bright circular thing rises again. :shade:
> 
> Any other test I shall perform while you have me walkback tuning it, Sir?
> :wink:


Walkback tune then group tune out to the longest yardages you can or at least further than you are comfortable shooting at.


----------



## jrip (May 19, 2008)

Just so you know... some peoples form/grip will not allow paper tuning a bullet hole with every bow out there. All of my bows shoot bullet holes out of my shooting machine but low left out of my hand... UNLESS I use a very uncomfortable grip for me. You cannot win them all.


----------



## Nitroboy (Jan 15, 2006)

jrp said:


> aight aight aight, I'm going to take your word on it, and walkback tune it tomorrow when that bright circular thing rises again. :shade:
> 
> Any other test I shall perform while you have me walkback tuning it, Sir?
> :wink:


When someone buys a bow from me and I tune it I walkback tune it and then BH tune it with 3 different types of large fixed blade BHs, I mainly work and tune on PSE bows but do alot of different stuff too and have yet to tune a PSE that takes me longer than 15-20 mins to have it drilling with both FP/BH, PSE stuff is super easy to tune this way, I just sold a guy a Axe 7 and I tuned it the exact same way, It had a slight amount of bottom cam lean but it still would fling an arrow perfect with FP/BH out to 60 yds, Some bows are harder to tune this way but PSE is not one of them, I bet that Axe 7 would not shoot a bullethole if you shot it through paper, but hey what do you want a bow that will punch a perfect hole or one that will shoot straight and true every time with FP/BH


----------



## jrp (Nov 4, 2009)

Ok, few questions. 
Is walkback tuning when you hang that string with a weight on the end of it and a sticker high that you aim at? Or is that another form of tuning? 
Should I start at 10yrd, 20yrd, 30yrd, 40yrd, 50yrd?? 

When doing this walkback tune, and I start to make adjustments should I adjust after each set of yardage shots? Or should I shoot all from 10-50 yards then adjust? 
But if that's the case how do I know exactly what to adjust and how much?


----------



## jrp (Nov 4, 2009)

Nitroboy said:


> When someone buys a bow from me and I tune it I walkback tune it and then BH tune it with 3 different types of large fixed blade BHs, I mainly work and tune on PSE bows but do alot of different stuff too and have yet to tune a PSE that takes me longer than 15-20 mins to have it drilling with both FP/BH, PSE stuff is super easy to tune this way, I just sold a guy a Axe 7 and I tuned it the exact same way, It had a slight amount of bottom cam lean but it still would fling an arrow perfect with FP/BH out to 60 yds, Some bows are harder to tune this way but PSE is not one of them, I bet that Axe 7 would not shoot a bullethole if you shot it through paper, but hey what do you want a bow that will punch a perfect hole or one that will shoot straight and true every time with FP/BH


True but my mom was looking for a hole puncher and I told her I had one. 
she is going to be very disappointed when I tell her I don't have a hole puncher :/ 


Lol, alrighty well explain to me how you personally walkback tune the PSE Axe please.


----------



## jrip (May 19, 2008)

jrp said:


> Ok, few questions.
> Is walkback tuning when you hang that string with a weight on the end of it and a sticker high that you aim at? Or is that another form of tuning?
> Should I start at 10yrd, 20yrd, 30yrd, 40yrd, 50yrd??
> 
> ...


I use blue painters tape and run a vertical line with a horizontal line crossing it shooting 1 arrow in ten yard increments from 10 to 30 yards. when all 3 arrow are on the tape line I will shoot the line at least one more time just to be sure. Aim at the same spot using the same pin without making any adjustments until you shoot at least 3 arrows or 3 groups of 3 arrows at each yardage.


----------



## jrp (Nov 4, 2009)

jrip said:


> I use blue painters tape and run a vertical line with a horizontal line crossing it shooting 1 arrow in ten yard increments from 10 to 30 yards. when all 3 arrow are on the tape line I will shoot the line at least one more time just to be sure. Aim at the same spot using the same pin without making any adjustments until you shoot at least 3 arrows or 3 groups of 3 arrows at each yardage.


Alright i'll give it a try. 
Going to do it right now


----------



## Ches (Aug 3, 2009)

I just got my AXE 6 back Friday, they said the spacers on the bottom cam were installed wrong. You could see it by just looking down the string from the bottom cam. I also ran an arrow along side, it was 1/2" to 5/8" out by the time the arrow reached my loop. It was so far out it missed the string stop when running the arrow. I still get a low tear caused buy arrow drop from the QAD HD. I tried a rest rocket on it and I got a great hole with a bare shaft (after being fixed). However, I don't like the stress it puts on the rest arm, so I removed it. I am going to pick up a spring tonight and see if I can make my one version of a rest rocket, 2 - 4 inches of shaft travel is all I am looking for. I tried walk back tuning on Saturday, looked good at 20 and 30 yrds, but wind was too strong to get into it. So, that's my story and Im sticking to it.

Ches.


----------



## Ches (Aug 3, 2009)

One last thing, I didn't like the way the QAD HD worked on my AXE. I like the taller forks for vane clearance, but could not raise the rest up high enough due to cable slide rod contact. So, I cut the shelf off some (the non mechanical part that hit's the rod about 1/4". I also use the spacer and longer screw.


----------



## jrp (Nov 4, 2009)

Ches said:


> One last thing, I didn't like the way the QAD HD worked on my AXE. I like the taller forks for vane clearance, but could not raise the rest up high enough due to cable slide rod contact. So, I cut the shelf off some (the non mechanical part that hit's the rod about 1/4". I also use the spacer and longer screw.


Yeah I don't like the way the QAD HD fits on the pse axe, can't move it up anymore because it hits the cable rod. 
I was thinking about getting a limb driver rest. 

I just got done walk back tuning my bow, and had some strange results. 
First off my peep isn't straight so when I pull back I am having to move my draw hand down so I can level my sight then pull back up to use my pin, my peep is on an angle so I can't see the full sight. 
Which probably caused for my strange walkback tune.

All the arrows went to the left of the tape I put horizontally on my target, but then some went dead smack in the middle of the tape. 

Probably a form issue, also my release is long so I am having to pull it up on my arm more which causes inconsistent form. 

My groups were good, then my groups at times were bad. 
I did a 10 15 20 yard walkback tune. 

I have a truball short n sweet s2 on order shipped today. 
Which will help with my release problem, now I just have to figure out how to straighten my peep so at full draw it is as straight as a tubed peep.
Gotta put my kisser on, and i'll be good to go then i'll start my adjusting. 

I adjusted my rest a little to the right because my arrows were to the left of the tape. Didn't do much helped a little but not much.
I really think the majority of my problems are from my QAD HD. 

:angry:


----------



## jrip (May 19, 2008)

Your DL is wrong OR your peep is in the wrong spot if you have to move your release hand to see through your peep. Where are you located at?


----------



## Nitroboy (Jan 15, 2006)

I don't like the QAD's on the newer PSE's RipCords work very very well, heres how I walkback

Take a 4' level and mark me some lines on my target bale that are plum as a goats ass, then run me a stretch of tape with the lines. 

Next I sight the bow in dead nutz at 20 yds, I mean hitting a dime at 20

You need at least 1 dz arrows to do the way I do

Shoot a 3 arrow group at 20 using the 20yd pin and keep using the 20yd pin and shoot groups at 30, 40 ,50yds also

if they are not perfectly in line then I slowly adjust the rest in the direction I need the last group to move to be inline with the tape, may take 3 or 4 sets of groups to get this, most of the time takes me just 2

After I get that I go screw in some BH and start the BH tuning, working with Point weight and bow draw weight til I get the bow grouping and shooting FP/BH at the same POI

Hope this helps I usually don't do good at explaining things

From your last post it sounds like it maybe more you than the bow, you may need to go get set-up properly with a release, DL and peep height


----------



## Ches (Aug 3, 2009)

About an hours worth of work with a dremel tool fixes the QAD HD problem, then a little paint. I used the small sanding drum to cut it down, then a small cone grinding point to cut the corner, then a ss wire wheel to make it look nice. Worked wonders.


----------

