# Release hand



## buckshot087 (Mar 18, 2010)

Does your release hand need to be flat? Most say the back of your hand needs to be flat, which makes sense physically. However I have heard several pros say they like having the release deep in their hand, therefore their hand can't be flat. I have tried both ways but I am a lot more comfortable having my index finger a little deeper in the release. My hand isn't balled up but it's not perfectly flat either. Is this an important enough issue that I need to learn to shoot with a flat hand, or should I shoot what feels best? Will shooting with a bent hand lead to inconsistency and freezing up?


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## D-TRAIN (Dec 1, 2004)

To me what's comfortable is repeatable, and what's repeatable is most accurate.


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## TCR1 (Dec 22, 2004)

What kind of release are you talking about (wrist/index finger, wrist/tension, thumb, hing, or handheld tension)? For my hand held releases, I like to shoot them with a deep grip. It keeps my hand more relaxed and the shot breaks more consistently (hinge and thumb). I have only shot a handheld tension release a few times and it wasn't adjusted for me/my bow, so no feed back there. For my wrist/index finger release I shoot with my hand flat. I don't have any tension on my fingers really and I tend to command shoot that release more often. To that extent, I think the flat hand with no tension allows for a decent release.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

John Dudley has an excellent article on his website about this.

Basically keeping the back of your hand is easier to be consistent.


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## TCR1 (Dec 22, 2004)

Link to dudley article. http://www.dudleyarchery.info/article?download=84:mastering-the-release-aid


Guess that since i am just starting to shoot again, may as well try it John's way. Certainly shoots light years ahead of me. A lot of what he discusses in that article I have been discovering my last couple sessiojns (which are the beginnings of me getting back into shooting). So I'm going to redact my previous comment until I test the flat hand method again (I do shoot a hinge though and not a thumb, but that shouldn't matter).


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## Kellg79 (Oct 22, 2013)

D-TRAIN said:


> To me what's comfortable is repeatable, and what's repeatable is most accurate.


I agree but I am not sure what is up with all the dog profile pics on this thread :b


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## D-TRAIN (Dec 1, 2004)

Kellg79 said:


> I agree but I am not sure what is up with all the dog profile pics on this thread :b


Haha good point! I didn't even notice that.


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## buckshot087 (Mar 18, 2010)

I shoot hinge mainly, sometimes thumb. And that Dudley article is why I started this thread haha. My shots break easier with the release a little deeper in my hand, but maybe it's because I'm not accustomed to shooting with a flat hand. Just want to know if it matters enough to change and learn to shoot comfortably with a flat hand.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

A test: lock your wife and your dog in the trunk of your car for an hour. Which one will be happy to see you when you let them out?


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## Mestang99 (Jan 10, 2013)

aread said:


> A test: lock your wife and your dog in the trunk of your car for an hour. Which one will be happy to see you when you let them out?


LMAO. I love it!!!


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

buckshot087 said:


> I shoot hinge mainly, sometimes thumb. And that Dudley article is why I started this thread haha. My shots break easier with the release a little deeper in my hand, but maybe it's because I'm not accustomed to shooting with a flat hand. Just want to know if it matters enough to change and learn to shoot comfortably with a flat hand.


I have been shooting with a flat hand for years. But after reading John's article, I realized I had gotten a little too relaxed with my fingers. If you shoot flat handed, you should make your fingers immobile hooks. For me, the shot goes off easier and with less anticipation if I take finger movement out of the equation.

Allen


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## TCR1 (Dec 22, 2004)

That is exactly why I grip deep too, it seemed more consistent to me. I don't know if it makes a difference, but I broke my release hand in college (playing rugby) and my hand actually is uncomfortable in the flat hand position even without the tension of the release/bow on it. In fact, I can't even get my fingers into a line without forcing them there. But, since I have not been shooting for ~24 months, now is the time to give it a good honest try.

I think one thing to remember is that there will always be an optimal way, and a way that works best for each individual. The keys in that article are finding a way to make the shot every single time. He just gives validation for the flat back hand and grip.


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## jrdrees (Jun 12, 2010)

I hold my hinge/thumb pretty deep, I like the "point" my index finger knuckle makes and seems to make it easier to get into my exact anchor. The reason I went away from a wrist/index release was due to the vagueness of my anchor, seemed to vary a smidge from day to day.


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## TCR1 (Dec 22, 2004)

TCR1 said:


> That is exactly why I grip deep too, it seemed more consistent to me. I don't know if it makes a difference, but I broke my release hand in college (playing rugby) and my hand actually is uncomfortable in the flat hand position even without the tension of the release/bow on it. In fact, I can't even get my fingers into a line without forcing them there. But, since I have not been shooting for ~24 months, now is the time to give it a good honest try.
> 
> I think one thing to remember is that there will always be an optimal way, and a way that works best for each individual. The keys in that article are finding a way to make the shot every single time. He just gives validation for the flat back hand and grip.


I shot 3 5 end sessions on a vegas face at 10 yards on Saturday and Sunday. Each session was preceded and superseded by 10 arrows of blank bailing at about 5 feet. The sessions were broken up throughout the day. With my hand the way it is now (the incorrectly set broken bone in hand of ring finger (metacarpal)), the grip suggested by John simply does not work for me. I can hardly even get the release to hook up, which put my fingers in an awkward position on the release at draw. I then had to make a conscious effort of laying my hand flat against my face with space between knuckle of pointer and middle finger on jaw line. Then, as discussed in his article bring the balance into my release. This I think, is where I really ran into issues. Because I had a hard time getting the middle finger and ring finger on the release consistently, it was hard to get balance on my hinge's handle consistent, and I had a very inconsistent release window. Quite honestly, it was probably the scariest 210 arrows I have shot in a while. I did not allow myself to let down in general, though I did have to let down 3 times. (I did this because sometimes letting down becomes an easy out for not executing a shot) After the last session, I decided to go back to my normal grip with the release on the proximal phalanges (the bone between the base and first knuckle of the finger). I was able to get my hand flat against my face in the same way, get good balance on the release, and shots broke a lot more consistently. I also found that the release hand did not drop down on the shot, but this may have to do with not adjusting the draw length for the different grip. I did not tweak my draw length for the release hand experiment, which should have been done as it would change the position of my draw side elbow (further back/down) experiment. However, the mere fact that I had about a dozen instances where my release popped from my loop as I moved to get my bow hand set is enough to keep me away. As I mentioned, this is likely due to my misfortune of having a bad doctor examine my x rays after breaking my hand.


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## TCR1 (Dec 22, 2004)

Found this video today. Guess I should continue to try the new release hand grip. Might need to find a different hinge to see if it fits my hand differently. 

I'm shooting a tru ball tru tension. Not the most expensive release, but has performed reliably for me. I'lm going to shift over to a Tru Ball Trail Boss thumb release in the meantime to see if it works in my hand better.

Anyone have a good recommendation for a Stan hinge or thumb release? I had an SX2 for a while and remember that fitting pretty cozy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8glZiI9fUw


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## TCR1 (Dec 22, 2004)

Sorry that I have turned this into TCR1's adventure into the release hand grip. I'm short on time tonight, but I had a package in the mail from voicebugler that contained some arrows I purchased from him (Thanks!). I needed to make sure they flew toward the target, so I cleared the spiderwebs off my wife's bow case, rummaged into her quiver and pulled out a like new 4-finger Tru Ball Trail Boss with talon head (for those not old enough to remember, thats a thumb release). I set the cocking bar, hooked the release to my d-loop and assumed the Ryals/Dudley preferred release hand grip. No problem since my thumb wasn't trying to hook around a thumb safety post like on my hinge. All four fingers in place like they are supposed to be. I cam to full draw, albeit a little awkwardly, and found a good sight picture, preloaded the thumb barrel lightly, and started my shot sequence...nice shot. Let's try number 2. Same deal. Number 3 a repeat again. Maybe these guys do know something. In the next end, I shot the first two arrows as suggested, for the 3rd, I tried wrapping the thumb post up, which I always thought was the appropriate way, but I could not get the shot to break. I stayed at full draw, took a big breath, moved my thumb out, and set the preload on my end thumb pad again. Shot fired, probably a decent shot, but not as good as the first 5. But who stays at full draw for 30-45 seconds trying to shoot a spot and fidgeting around with major components of set up. I shot two more ends and a money arrow all using the suggested mechanics. All were good shots. I sense that my pretension load up of the barrel is inconsistent as my follow through although generally explosive, was here and there a little softer. 

Now, is the problem for me hinges in general, or my specific hinge's handle shape. I'm thinking its time to go to a thumb trigger.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Trying to understand deep in the hand. I can't grip any of my hinge or thumb releases if saying using the first pads of the fingers from the palm. Heck, I got make a fist...and then not have good contact to split my jaw with the index and middle knuckles.


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## TCR1 (Dec 22, 2004)

SonnyThomas said:


> Trying to understand deep in the hand. I can't grip any of my hinge or thumb releases if saying using the first pads of the fingers from the palm. Heck, I got make a fist...and then not have good contact to split my jaw with the index and middle knuckles.


Sonny, if you wanted a selfie of me, you just need to ask :tongue:

I'm kidding. I'm sort of in one of those "over allocation of time" periods in life, but I'll see if I can't get a few pictures for you. I'm generally unphotogenic, so concentrate on the release or risk being turned to stone.

Looking at the photo, it looks like the release rolls into theright position, even though it starts in my hand where shown...

And: Oh look, youre elbow is too high:tongue:


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Well, your pictures of holding aren't the same. 1st pic the release is on the middle pads of the fingers.


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## TCR1 (Dec 22, 2004)

Sorry, I tried to mention that as I draw the bow, the release is where it is in the second picture. Until seeing the picture, I didn't realize that the release at some point shifted into the proper placement. I don't very often set a camera up on a timer and draw my bow to evaluate myself. I also don't have a ton of feeling in my hands...probably a combination of abusing them while weightlifting (1 word, see the platform in the background) and poor circulation in general. Seeing the picture was an eye opener. Now how do I get my draw elbow down without lengthening my draw or running an absurdly long d loop? I've always had a high elbow for as long as I cared about "form".


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

No two of us the same, the 1st pic is correct for the hand holding the release, 2nd pads of the fingers. The back of the hand should be straight with the forearm. It isn't flat against the face. If it was my knuckles would be out past my chin. Holding as you are, the knuckles of the hand and fingers should split the jaw line. Personal preference, the knuckles can be right before the corner of the jaw or on the corner of the jaw so long as the fingers split the jaw line. 

For me, if I drew a line along my draw forearm the line would pretty much go to the deepest part of riser grip. I don't have a straight edge, just saying for example....

Actually, you look a little pulled out of position, noggin' forward, but the draw arm up too high could be the cause of being or just looking that way. So a better picture. Just as example; vertical line between your feet straight up the middle of you, neck and out the top of your head.

If issues with your release, contact Padgett in here and ask for his hinge write up. Dudley's is a bit different and maybe a start, but seems not quite in control or give good feeling of the release - every thing doesn't work for every body....


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## TCR1 (Dec 22, 2004)

I've notice my weight distribution to be a little front foot heavy. If I am pushing forward to meet the string, I don't realize I'm doing it. A little longer draw may bring my weight a little more neutral, give my head a better upright position, and bring the elbow down. Worth a check.


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