# Pin Sight won't go low enough on Samick Recurve



## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

looking at it, that would be fine for me at 20 yards...

i guess you anchor pretty high?

if your anchor is really high, like you've got a 30 yard point on, don't know if you can get a sight to go low enough. you can use a single pin sight, without a housing, which will let you go lower. you can also mount the sight backwards, so that the pins are inside the bow, behind the riser. from the eye's perspective, in terms of angle, this will lower the pins without putting them in the path of the arrow. some fita shooters do this, I believe, for longer distances.

you can also adjust your sight so that you can put the point of impact exactly halfway between the tip of the arrow and the bottom pin 9or the bottom of the level, housing, whatever.... works better than you might expect, even if not as precise, perhaps because so.


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## willydo (Sep 22, 2013)

Barney....thanks for the input. I don't think my anchor is considered high. I shoot 3 under with middle finger on eye tooth so basically about where I see most recurve shooters anchor. The knocking point was originally set by paper tuning and bare shaft. I was hoping not to have to change my knocking point in order to use the sight.

Your thoughts about mounting inside the bow are interesting; I could give that a try. Thanks


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

We all have different faces, but to me, that would be a very high anchor, particularly if my middle finger slide up my eye tooth. It puts my index finger on the front of my cheek bone, which puts the nock of the arrow just a little more than an inch below my eye.

Not that you should change anything, but it would be interesting to see a picture of you at full anchor. Regardless, unless you really want to shoot mainly with a sight, I wouldn't change a working anchor just for that.

Might be worth setting up a tooth pick with a piece of tape and sharing a picture of what that looks like.

I don't personally enjoy using a sight with housing on a recurve, as it obscures my view at certain distances. Then again, so does my shelf...


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## ismo131 (Nov 19, 2014)

I think that split fingre is helping with sight shooting.


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## willydo (Sep 22, 2013)

Ismo.....I think you are correct because that would tend to lower the arrow compared to 3 under. I did try turning the sight around so it was on the inside of the bow and that helped some but not near enough. I then lowered my knock point a couple of times until it was just below 0 and that helps quite a bit to bring the arrow up but I know it just reflects my high anchor point as Barney mentioned.
I did try a lower anchor point (on the jaw) and it brought the arrow up some more but still not enough to get on even at twenty yards. 
So I actually have one of those simple, single pin open sights that is adjustable. I'll give that a try and get back.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

will -

That's basically what we call a static sight, since it's designed for compounds where a lot of elevation travel isn't required.

Even with split fingers and a lower anchor, you might find the travel insufficient for longer distances. 
The accepted norm for target sights is something with a a 5.5" sight rack. 
The only real question is what your budget will allow. 
Sights, like ILF risers are basically buy and forget items, meaning buy one once and don't worry about a new one for a while.

Viper1out.


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## StudentOfTheBow (Jun 17, 2014)

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I just don't think that kind of sight is appropriate for a recurve bow. There's a reason that Olympic Recurve bows use the style of site they do, rather than the compound hunting sight like you show.

Olympic Recurve style sights, if I'm not mistaken, protrude further forward from the bow and have more range of adjustment. Plus, I believe, they can be adjusted on the fly.

If you're going to mount a sight, I'd say go with one of those.

I shoot without a sight, so I'm no expert, but I found this website very educational when I first explored the option of a sight on my bow.

https://jordansequillion.wordpress.com/2012/06/30/adjusting-your-sights/


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## Todd the archer (Feb 7, 2003)

Try split finger with index finger at corner of mouth.


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## willydo (Sep 22, 2013)

*Follow up*

Thanks all for the responses. I did get the new sight as it was advertized as being for recurves and most reviewers (all) were using it on recurves with good results. I did go ahead and attach a simple 1 pin sight I had in a drawer and that does indeed go low enough for me and can be adjusted to where the arrow hits and the arrow does not touch it. However, I found that it didn't help in my particular case. I seem to do much better instinctively rather than try and hold that small dot on target. I'm going to try and attach a picture of the single pin sight just to help others and a pic of my form. I agree with all of the responses above as being spot on.


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## zombiesloth79 (May 7, 2015)

I would definitely call that a high anchor point. The few olympic style guys I've known all anchored under the chin, with the string touching their lips and the tip of their nose.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

will -



> I seem to do much better instinctively rather than try and hold that small dot on target.


That kinda proves why you need a sight, at least as a training tool. 
And yes, your anchor is way too high.

Viper1 out.


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

Viper1 said:


> will -
> 
> That kinda proves why you need a sight, at least as a training tool.
> And yes, your anchor is way too high.
> ...


To elaborate, if having an exact aiming reference throws you off, that means that you're not really controlling the shot process. It's not an uncommon thing, and I had the same problem when learning to shoot with a gap aiming system.

Also, your anchor is really high, and the pin for 20 yard shooting, as a result, is really low. This explains, to some extent, why instinctive aiming at this distance is so easy, because you've got an easy visual reference (essentially, the point of the arrow is the sight pin, and you're subconsciously able to easily 'gap' with the arrow point.

IF you're happy with how you're shooting, and you're not going to be shooting much farther than 25 or 30 yards, I'd say there is little point in a sight, and you can just as easily use a point of aim below the target for any training and diagnostic work.

However, looking at your alignment, it's difficult to guess from a lateral perspective, but it certainly looks like it would be difficult to maintain any kind of good alignment. What anymore, you're probably giving up a good 1 1/2 or 2 inches of draw length, essentially short-drawing the bow to get the anchor on that part of your face.

I wouldn't go so far as to say that what you're doing is necessarily wrong, because I've seen some people compete pretty successfully in short distance 3D shooting in particular with similar anchors using relatively light bows, because it provides a very easy sight picture to deal with at shorter distances. However, that kind of alignment makes mkore precise shooting, particularly with hunting draw lengths, far more difficult.

If you're interested in exploring other options, I really like anchoring my bottom thumb knuckle (closest to the wrist) behind the lower corner of my jaw. I use index finger to the corner of the mouth as a secondary touch point, but because the mouth is floppy, you can't really call it anchor. Down side to this, you might find your arrows too short.

Tony details it in his book but the anchor isn't really a holding point itself. I.e., you don't hold your hand to the anchor. Rather, you pull the bow, and simply float with the anchor as a reference point.

If you anchor in a way where you have full expansion, you can pull through the shot, and the nock doesn't actually move a whole shot, because the slight degree of elbow rotation has so much leverage that movement is minimized, but it does prevent collapse, as well as enable a smoother 'dynamic' (passive) as opposed to 'dead' (which is actually active).

Either way, much to play with.


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## willydo (Sep 22, 2013)

Thanks for the input. I'll play around with my anchor point a bit more and see what might help. 

Willydo


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## willydo (Sep 22, 2013)

I've been using a lower anchor point and it is working out well with the single pin sight. Actually, the bottom thumb knuckle and index finger as described by BarneySlayer is working already. I originally started with a high anchor point as several of the archers in the "Masters of the Bare Bow" series seem to favor (where they are looking down the arrow or pretty close to it and using the arrow tip as a point of aim). But the lower anchor is allowing use of the pin sight and I'm finding more consistent accuracy. I can tell that this is going to be a significant improvement for me as I get used to the sight and anchor point. Thanks


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## BarneySlayer (Feb 28, 2009)

yay!


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