# String Jigs



## joebass (May 22, 2002)

Anybody have any advise or input? Am I on the right track? Some close up pics of posts and bases would be greatly appreciated.


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## BOWGOD (Aug 11, 2004)

*string jig*

hey i just saw your post about building a string jig. i have drawn out some blue prints a while back but couldn't gain access to the machines to build them. you think we could cut some kind of deal to where i get you the blue prints you build me my components?


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## joebass (May 22, 2002)

Yes probably depending on how complicated the machining is, maybe you pay for the materials.


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## BOWGOD (Aug 11, 2004)

joebass said:


> Yes probably depending on how complicated the machining is, maybe you pay for the materials.


sending you a pm:wink:


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## TeaMan (Oct 19, 2006)

I have been thinking of making a jig also, but my thoughts were a little more rigid to keep it from flexing at all. I'd sure be interested in seeing what you two come up with. I have limited access to a machine shop.

TeaMan


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## joebass (May 22, 2002)

*Ttt*

Ttt


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## joebass (May 22, 2002)

*Ttt*

Ttt


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## joebass (May 22, 2002)

*First pics....*

7/8" cold roll steel posts, total lengths are 8 3/4 inches long. 1/4" tops are 1 inch long. Bases are 11 inches long made out of 3/4" by 1 1/2" cold roll steel. Posts sit on 9 inch centers. The bases are painted flat black and the posts are polished. All you need to buy is the 10 foot length of Uni-mount, the Uni-mount 3/8" nuts, and some 3/8" allen head bolts. You could rig up your own stretcher, buy the one from BCY, or I will be making one for sale also. Price is 85.00 shipped priority.


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## BrandXshooter77 (May 17, 2005)

joebass said:


> I am contemplating building a string jig and getting into making my own strings and cable. Since I have a mill and a lathe, I can make my own posts. I was thinking 3/4 or 7/8 inch cold roll steel for the posts and 3/4 by 1 1/2 inch flat bar for the bases. I have never seen or used a string jig before so I am kind of going to wing it. I assume that I could drill and tap the end of the posts for a 1/4-20 bolt.This seems like a fairly simple deal for me to make.
> 
> I have sold a ton of bow vises on here so I would like to know if there might be a market for these things on here. I could sell them for 90-100 shipped. Of course you would have to supply your own Uni-strut. Let me know what kind of interest there is. Also if any one has any kind of feedback or thinks of anything that could be incorporated let me know. My idea would be similar to these....http://www.eagleeyesights.com/


Where would one get the base (uni-strut) and how much more would that cost me? I was thinking of getting into string making but haven't really looked hard at what makes the best jig. I know they aren't cheap. $100 seems kind of high for part of a jig. I didn't know that steel cost so much.


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## joebass (May 22, 2002)

The Uni-strut is available for 15-20.00 at Lowes or Home Depot. If you think 100.00 is high. What are you paying for strings? Would you expect my labor to be free? Look at the Yellowstone and Brownwll jigs. They seem high to me.


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## LeEarl (Jun 1, 2002)

BrandXshooter77 said:


> Where would one get the base (uni-strut) and how much more would that cost me? I was thinking of getting into string making but haven't really looked hard at what makes the best jig. I know they aren't cheap. $100 seems kind of high for part of a jig. I didn't know that steel cost so much.


Are you joking? Just look around at the prices of string jigs and you will see that under $100 is a good price.

The jig look good so far. Any plans on a more 'finished look'?


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## BrandXshooter77 (May 17, 2005)

joebass said:


> The Uni-strut is available for 15-20.00 at Lowes or Home Depot. If you think 100.00 is high. What are you paying for strings? Would you expect my labor to be free? Look at the Yellowstone and Brownwll jigs. They seem high to me.


I pay $40 a set for strings and I put them on myself. they are just as good as AT's bucknasty strings, and no I don't expect your labor to be free. 

I was merely wondering how expensive the steel is. I know you gotta make something for your time, it just seems to be a few simple holes and a bit of lathe time. I wish I could get paid $50 an hour to grind on metal.

I didn't mean to upset or anything. As I said, I haven't looked into it yet. I did look at the lil john that sells for $550:mg: and an apple $150 and for the life of me can't understand why other than greed. No worries, I got some research to do. Could be your product is the one to beat.


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## joebass (May 22, 2002)

I'm going to get on my soapbox for a minute.....
I charge 60.00 an hour in my shop plus materials. It cost me roughly 15.00 an hour just to pay my bills(rent, gas, electric, water, etc) plus my welding and machining consumables(gas, welding, rod, abrasives, drill bits, cutting lube, lathe and mill tools, etc) these are used up and i dont get them back, they are not considerd materials. Now consider health insurance, liability and the other stuff. What am I left with. Believe me I dont get 50.00 an hour to "grind metal", and frankly that is the only part of your posts that insulted me. I make this stuff because of my love for archery and to help the archery community out. I don't even make my regular rates for what I charge you guys on here.

I get guys that come in my shop and want to haggle. I tell them to take a hike. i don't need practice doing what i do. it is a skilled trade. If I take my Ranger bass boat to get the Johnson Outboard worked on the guy gets 70.00 an hour. How about what the GM dealer charges. It's ridiculous and in my opinion isnt even skilled. How about the last time you called an HVAC guy or an Electrician?

If you want stuff done cheap, Find a way to pay the chinese, I'm sure they could make you a couple hundred string jigs for 15.00 a piece, then you could resell them and make your profit. It's not "greed" buddy.

That said. My prices are very fair and if you don't want to pay what I ask fins a way to do it yourself.


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## KDS (Oct 11, 2005)

7/8" cold roll steel posts, total lengths are 8 3/4 inches long. 1/4" tops are 1 inch long. Bases are 11 inches long made out of 3/4" by 1 1/2" cold roll steel. Posts sit on 9 inch centers. The bases are painted flat black and the posts are polished. All you need to buy is the 10 foot length of Uni-mount, the Uni-mount 3/8" nuts, and some 3/8" allen head bolts. You could rig up your own stretcher, buy the one from BCY, or I will be making one for sale also. Price is 85.00 shipped priority

I may be interested in this Joebass. How does the stretcher work?


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## thunderhead (Aug 18, 2002)

joebass said:


> . If I take my Ranger bass boat to get the Johnson Outboard worked on the guy gets 70.00 an hour. How about what the GM dealer charges. It's ridiculous and in my opinion isnt even skilled.
> 
> Your kidding right? Mechanics are not skilled?


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## joebass (May 22, 2002)

Maybe I worded it wrong. There is no apprenticeship or journeyman status for an auto or outboard mechanic. Nor an HVAC tech for that matter.


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## ICOM (Mar 8, 2004)

I want to see what you come up with for the stretcher


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## KDS (Oct 11, 2005)

ICOM said:


> I want to see what you come up with for the stretcher


Me too!!! This could solve my problems of ordering strings that are either too short or too long due to bow manufactures generic string length info.


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## BrandXshooter77 (May 17, 2005)

joebass said:


> I'm going to get on my soapbox for a minute.....
> I charge 60.00 an hour in my shop plus materials. It cost me roughly 15.00 an hour just to pay my bills(rent, gas, electric, water, etc) plus my welding and machining consumables(gas, welding, rod, abrasives, drill bits, cutting lube, lathe and mill tools, etc) these are used up and i dont get them back, they are not considerd materials. Now consider health insurance, liability and the other stuff. What am I left with. Believe me I dont get 50.00 an hour to "grind metal", and frankly that is the only part of your posts that insulted me. I make this stuff because of my love for archery and to help the archery community out. I don't even make my regular rates for what I charge you guys on here.
> 
> I get guys that come in my shop and want to haggle. I tell them to take a hike. i don't need practice doing what i do. it is a skilled trade. If I take my Ranger bass boat to get the Johnson Outboard worked on the guy gets 70.00 an hour. How about what the GM dealer charges. It's ridiculous and in my opinion isnt even skilled. How about the last time you called an HVAC guy or an Electrician?
> ...



If you run your own shop, I respect that and sorry you felt insulted. You are absolutely right about the cost of labor (which is why I asked), americans demand more money every year for the same job that they don't do as well as they did the previous year (inflation I guess).

Like I said I'll do my homework and go from there. 

Now the whole chinese tangent was probably not necessary but I'm glad that you think they are not greedy and that you consider me your buddy:smile:


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## BrandXshooter77 (May 17, 2005)

I am interested in seeing the stretcher also. Thanks


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## dhunt1 (Dec 16, 2002)

*String Stretchers*

Here's one ive used for years thas cheap to make but effective.


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## bchannell (Sep 2, 2007)

Since the topic of stretchers came up, here's my idea for one that can take way, WAY more than 300# of load and can be made without much mechanical expertise. I first started out with cast flanges, the kind used for mounting hand railings, but a member on this site got me to thinking about their strength. They are cast, probably would hold up fine, but why scrimp, when the bolt flanges are so easy to get. The only problem I had was the gasket seal ridge had to be machined off flat so the flanges would sit on the uni-strut. That's a quick job for a machinist.
Here's a pic of the old,








and now for the new improved








The bolt flanges painted blue are a heck of a lot stronger and I like the comfort of knowing they're not going to snap. I used 3/4" pipe for the uprights, about 7" tall, which gives plenty of room for serving. The stretcher uses a 340# porch swing spring from Home Depot. I don't have any way of measuring exactly how much poundage I put on strings, I just use all the thread length of my eye bolts, which nearly stretches the spring as far as it will go, so I would imagine it to be around 300#. One thing to keep in mind is that the eye bolts sold at Home Depot are rated at 150# load. I found some that were galvanized with no marked rating and they work fine. Don't use stainless eye bolts, the first string I made I used stainless eye bolts and when I went to let the string down, the nut had frozen on the theads. WOW! a string under 300+# tension and no good way to get it off. I had to loosen the base bolts on one of the uprights and very carefully lt it slide inward, not a awe inspiring step in string making.

I ordered a set of Joebass's jig ends, as I've been currently been using Jurassic uprights. They're ok, but not super strong. So I should be able to stretch a bit more with the joebass ones. Even though I do most of the stretching on the stretcher, I'd like the jig ends to be as strong as possible. I made a plate on my superstrut to mount the uprights, it consists of two holes spaced far enough apart to allow the jig ends to rotate and miss the other mounting bolt. This way, when turning the jig, it doesn't lose it's hold on the wound string. I'll take some pics in a few days when I get everything going and am making a string. This should help a lot of folks make their own parts as much as possible.


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## dhunt1 (Dec 16, 2002)

*Stretchers*

WOW Thats awesome. I'm in the process of doing a rebuild on mine. That looks plenty sturdy. If you get more pics i'd like to see them.
Thanks!


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## Dthbyhoyt (Dec 4, 2004)

here is a stretcher I made for my jig


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## PA.JAY (May 26, 2004)

mine is pretty much the same but i have a trailer crank on mine do you subtract 1/16 when you measure the string on that U hook .


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## bchannell (Sep 2, 2007)

I'm waiting on my jig ends from joebass and when I get them and modify my superstrut mount system, I'll post some pics of the finished stretcher and jig. I must say, finalizing my setup has cost me a few bucks more, but the trial and error with stretcher hardware was well worth the knowledge. I now have a setup that works rather well and stretches the string easily.


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## dhunt1 (Dec 16, 2002)

*String jigs*

Yes! please post some pics of your setup....keep em coming.


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## Purka (Sep 8, 2004)

This is what I use at the moment.
I pull the pin out of the top, to twist the string, put it in to serve the string or to give it a bit more of a stretch with a boat winch. The twister also has a slot in the top of the shaft, so I can put a spring in the back of it later.


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## dhunt1 (Dec 16, 2002)

*Wow*

Can you say....machine shop! Man thats impressive did you build that yourself? It looks as though your twin posts don't rotate. Are they welded in one position?


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## Perfectionist (Mar 2, 2004)

I am also interested in the string stretcher. :darkbeer:


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## Purka (Sep 8, 2004)

dhunt1 said:


> Can you say....machine shop! Man thats impressive did you build that yourself? It looks as though your twin posts don't rotate. Are they welded in one position?


Yeah the twin post are welded and don't rotate, the posts are 10" apart, if I make a string on the four posts, I just subtract 10". At the moment I use the twister to make the string on, and use the four posts to tie the ends to.
I did build them myself, I have a home workshop to play in.
What did you want to know Perfectionist ?
Here's a couple more pic's.


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## dhunt1 (Dec 16, 2002)

*No pIcs*

Sorry maybe it's the computer from work im using but i don't see anything yet.


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## Perfectionist (Mar 2, 2004)

Purka said:


> What did you want to know Perfectionist ?


Sorry about the confusion. I am interested in what JoeBass is thinking about selling.

btw, nice setup... :darkbeer:


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## joebass (May 22, 2002)

Been too busy to work on the stretcher. Here is some pics of seome posts and bases that went out this morning....


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## Po_Boy (Jun 3, 2006)

joebass said:


> Been too busy to work on the stretcher. Here is some pics of seome posts and bases that went out this morning....


I'm interested in both the jig posts and the stretcher. Is the stretcher something you might have finished in the near future or will it be a while? Just curious as it will be a few weeks before I order any posts and I want to know if yours will be ready and will you offer a package with the posts and a stretcher. Everything looks good and keep up the good work!:thumbs_up

Scott
Scott and Son Archery


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## WRMorrison (Dec 26, 2007)

Does anyone have a link to a video or something of a sting jig/stretcher being used? I kind of understand how the whole process works, but it's still a bit fuzzy...

-WRM


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## Purka (Sep 8, 2004)

Try this.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=60235


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## WRMorrison (Dec 26, 2007)

Purka said:


> Try this.
> http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=60235


:mg: I had no idea that string making was so involved! I think I'll leave this task to the pros...

-WRM


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## joebass (May 22, 2002)

Thanks for all the replys and questions. Guys. I can also custom make posts in different diameters and heights. How about Aluminum bases or posts? Let me know. Thanks.


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## joebass (May 22, 2002)

All orders have been shipped USPS priotity. Thanks guys.


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## OklaArcher (Apr 22, 2007)

joebass said:


> Maybe I worded it wrong. There is no apprenticeship or journeyman status for an auto or outboard mechanic. Nor an HVAC tech for that matter.


Not to jump subjects again, but actually both trades have 4 year apprenticeships in place in a lot of the shops, especially union based. I was formerly a GM Master Certified journeyman level technician. I do agree that the labor charges are ridiculous, we didn't see but a very small percentage of that as techs. I'm keeping an eye on your posts, I have a set I built at work (I now work in the aerospace industry) but I like the way yours are turning out. And I think the price is more than fair if they can handle a good amount of pressure without flexing and tolerances are exact as I'm sure they are.

Good luck!


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## superdiablo (Feb 7, 2003)

*My stringmaker*

I felt like shareing my stringmaker with you all. I had it done for me with one main thing in mind, not to bend under any stretching force I would like to apply :wink:!


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## superdiablo (Feb 7, 2003)

again ...


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## superdiablo (Feb 7, 2003)

...another


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## Purka (Sep 8, 2004)

superdiablo, that's one tuff jig, makes my jig look like a toy. What have you got hidden under the material on the slider.


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## superdiablo (Feb 7, 2003)

Hi Purka!
It is a digital scale (the white thing is a foam protection) in orther to precisely (0.5kg steps, 0 to 210 kg) check how much tension I apply with the winch in every step of the building process. This, together with the exact positioning of the slider and the abscense of served loops allows for exact length duplication, even tension on all strands, minimum peep rotation and faster burn in period (you might call it settle in process I think). Of course the fact that the posts and the main structure do not bend is a nice plus to everything I explained before :wink:
It might not be very commercial (no served loops and difficulty to make mixed colours strings), but tell me about effectiveness :tongue:.
Good luck and happy shooting!
Javier Martinez.


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## 3dshooter80 (Mar 13, 2006)

Hi Joe,
I was wondering if you have considered the possibility of adding two holes drilled the same distance from the center hole with one being between the center hole and one post and the other one being between one hole and the side of the base plate so that when the posts are rotated from inline with the unistrut to open (perpendicular) to the unistrut, a bolt could be inserted into the unistrut lockdown nut/baseplate to lock the posts into position and not allow the posts to rotate. 

Deezlin has this ability on his post setup that comes with his jig and I think for the amount of work that is involved, it would be a nice touch. You could offer the posts with a matched lockdown plate that has a hole drilled for the center bolt as well as the other bolt which would lock the posts into position, either inline or open. 
The main benefit of this is that when you try to serve the end loops, you would be assured that the posts wouldn't rotate and allow uneven strand tension. 
Just a thought, as I would pay an even $100 to have the posts and corresponding lockdown plates.


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## superdiablo (Feb 7, 2003)

3dshooter80 said:


> Hi Joe,
> I was wondering if you have considered the possibility of adding two holes drilled the same distance from the center hole with one being between the center hole and one post and the other one being between one hole and the side of the base plate so that when the posts are rotated from inline with the unistrut to open (perpendicular) to the unistrut, a bolt could be inserted into the unistrut lockdown nut/baseplate to lock the posts into position and not allow the posts to rotate.
> 
> Deezlin has this ability on his post setup that comes with his jig and I think for the amount of work that is involved, it would be a nice touch. You could offer the posts with a matched lockdown plate that has a hole drilled for the center bolt as well as the other bolt which would lock the posts into position, either inline or open.
> ...



This is why I have chosen not to serve the end loops on my strings ... Not for everyone, but I have peace of mind for myself


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## joebass (May 22, 2002)

All orders will be shipped tomorrow. Thanks


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## Purka (Sep 8, 2004)

superdiablo said:


> This is why I have chosen not to serve the end loops on my strings ... Not for everyone, but I have peace of mind for myself


Its not hard to serve the end loops on a two pin jig, or to make a two colour string. You just need something to tie the ends to...


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## superdiablo (Feb 7, 2003)

Purka said:


> Its not hard to serve the end loops on a two pin jig, or to make a two colour string. You just need something to tie the ends to...


Yeah ... but it means the original position of the strands is lost somewhere during the process. Easy not to put even pressure in all of the strands; when you serve the loop, you twist the strands inside the serving and put more twists on the half remaining strands (hope it makes sense, my english is not that good :embara ahead of the serving tool direction. Then you have half of the strands twisted themselves and then this half strand wraps around another half bundle of strands which are not twisted themselves (in a non stretching stringmaker you can see the effect I try to explain easily; stretching and twisting a string made with served loops only helps to not seeing the differences in elongation between both halves, but still exist there and I do not want to worry about it; it is like knowing where the hidden treasure is ...)
Hope it makes sense!
Javier Martinez.


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## Purka (Sep 8, 2004)

superdiablo said:


> Yeah ... but it means the original position of the strands is lost somewhere during the process. Easy not to put even pressure in all of the strands; when you serve the loop, you twist the strands inside the serving and put more twists on the half remaining strands (hope it makes sense, my english is not that good :embara ahead of the serving tool direction. Then you have half of the strands twisted themselves and then this half strand wraps around another half bundle of strands which are not twisted themselves (in a non stretching stringmaker you can see the effect I try to explain easily; stretching and twisting a string made with served loops only helps to not seeing the differences in elongation between both halves, but still exist there and I do not want to worry about it; it is like knowing where the hidden treasure is ...)
> Hope it makes sense!
> Javier Martinez.


I know what you're talking about, but if you serve the end loops with the tag ends of the string, it doesn't do that.
To each there own, personally I can't stand unserved loops on any of my bows.


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## Spotshooter2 (Oct 23, 2003)

My string is twisted before I do the end loops. I start the end loops for approximately 2 inches and then turn the jig so that the loops are in the right position. THen I put the needed twists in the string (1 twist per 1.5 inches), then I tension the string to 300 lbs and finish the end loops and serve the rest of the way up . I dont have any problems with the string twisting an more under the serving as I am applying it when it is under tension. I am with Purka , I hate unserved end loops.


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## superdiablo (Feb 7, 2003)

Once I tye the strand firstly and lastly after the desired number is around the pins, I prefer not to undo till the full serving is finished. I use a loose piece of strand material (452X in my case) to wrap around the loop area and a little bit more, just to keep the strands of the loop together, but not in the sense of a tight serving where one thread goes in contact with the next one. It doesn't protect any (no needed in that particular place I believe), just helps to keep the loop well formed if you remove the string to put twists and adjust peep rotation when settleing in.
I do too twist string before serving, but apply tension on a step by step basis, linked to how I build up the length of the serving and the tension on the serving tool, which I increase gradually too. I use Brownell Liquid Lock wich acts as a wet lubricant when serving and as a soft adhesive when dry.
This step by step tension increase makes a little room for the sharp bend on the serving which many cams have after the peg, while preventing knots slippage (and consequent lesser tension on the first and last strands of the string) if you apply too much tension before the serving is long enough to really keep all strands inside together.
I cannot figure myself how to serve the loops and maintain even pressure on all strands, without having a couple of them slightly less tensioned or unevenly twisted as explained in my earlier post. I went the 4 pin traditional jig way many years before, but wasn't completely happy never. I even ended not shooting recurves whose manufacturers didn't cover this type of unserved loops under their warranties (it was like that to my knowledge years back, at the transition years between kevlar and fastflight). Happily now, you can shoot your preferred compound with unserved loops without worrying about voiding waranty :wink:
If we are to split hairs, then I will add that those strings are faster to build and probably to shoot (less material and weight inside the cam), though my main concern is a very stable string.
Purka, can you explain how to use the tag ends to serve the loop without removing first and last knot from the pins? This same material of the string I will use to serve the loop area if I can figure how to. In my string making machine I had 2 extra removeable pins to do what I think you referred to in your post, but wasn't able to make it work correctly myself (pins mounted on a base with those strong on/off magnets) and ended up unserving loops!
Man, it seems not only me enjoys stringbuilding :grouphug::set1_applaud:


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## joebass (May 22, 2002)

*Ttt*

All order shipped. Thanks


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## joebass (May 22, 2002)

Ordering more steel Monday. Get your orders in. Thanks


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## joebass (May 22, 2002)

Ttt


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## AKRuss (Jan 10, 2003)

joebass, I use a Yellowstone Dream Machine (?), which is also on Unistrut, for making recurve and longbow strings. How is this different from the Yellowstone unit? I've tried to apply tension to the Yellowstone uprights but they can't handle much. Thanks!


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## joebass (May 22, 2002)

Sent you a PM asking for the specifics on a yellowstone jig.


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## joebass (May 22, 2002)

Orders will be shipped tomorrow. Thanks


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## Man-n-Pink (Nov 7, 2006)

very nice work.....

I like the way that you have taken your skills and applied them to archery.


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## joebass (May 22, 2002)

Ttt


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## dgmeadows (Jun 15, 2005)

*Still selling these ? Any updates on the stretcher or winder ?*

I am interested in your jig arms and the other pieces... Any new information ?

Thanks,

Darren


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## Bubba66 (Feb 24, 2006)

lets bump this back to the top


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