# Ideal Hunting wood arrow weight and type?



## Tlvoskamp (Aug 4, 2004)

I am just getting into traditional archery, and I was wanting to know where to buy the ideal wooden hunting arrow. It seems cedar is the prevelant choice, and I also am wondering as to the grains per inch. It seems there is mixed opinion between 8-10 grains per pound. Also most arrows are sold in weight increments, how do you know how heavy your arrows are going to be. I like the three rivers hunting arrows, are those acceptable arrows, I will be hunting mostly Whitetail and turkey. Any wisdom will be appreciated. 

Thanks,

Travis V


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## Steve T (Nov 3, 2005)

*A topic with many opinions*

Travis,
I don't know if you've been reading any of the other threads...but this is a topic of many varied opinions. I personally shoot a 630 to 650 grain hickory arrow off of my 60lb @ 27" Saxon longbow. I have been playing with my point weight from 125 grains to 145 grains is the reason for the variance of my arrow weight. I like the flight and feel of the 650 grain (10.8 gr/in) arrow the best.

You're right about cedar being the most prevelant. I have never shot any cedar because of my preference for a heavier arrow. I have tried Ash (approx. 15 to 16 grains per inch), Hickory (approx. 17 to 18 grains per inch), Maple (approx. 19 grains per inch). Haven't tried Sitka Spruce but was told it runs about 15 grains per inch.

I'm sure you are wanting to get some arrows in hand so you can start shooting. I don't think you would go wrong with any arrows bought from 3Rivers or any other reputable dealer. I would caution you on buying a full dozen though, they may not end up being "right" for your bow. I believe 3Rivers sells a "spine kit" where you get two arrows of 4 different spines (8 arrows) to test with your bow. I think it's around $30. Worse case you may end up with 4 arrows that don't shoot real good off your bow.

Unfortunately I don't think there is the "ideal" wooden arrow. Trade offs like with everything else. There are lots of websites that can help you with gaining more knowledge about the basics of wood arrows. Doug Besherse has some good articles about arrow spine, tuning arrows, and so on. Also, Sticks and Feathers has some info about building your own wood arrows.

Something you might want to consider...building your own arrows. I build my own and love shooting them all the more because I made them. It's not that hard and very rewarding. I like understanding how things work and by knowing what it takes to make a good arrow helps when it comes to selecting the right characteristics you want for what you do - target, hunt,
3D, etc.

Welcome to the challange of traditional archery...you're gonna love it! :teeth:


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## robk (Jun 10, 2002)

i shoot 45lbs and i have shot arrows in the 400 to 600 grain and they will all shoot just remember that if your tuned up right with the right swet up for your bow meaning the nocking poiint is right you have foudn out which arrow will fly best being the length of the arrow the weight is not a problem once you have shot and done some testing of your arrows.
i am now shooting a 520 grain arrow right now and enjoying it a great deal and am comfortable with that weight. for my carbons i am shooting right aroudn 375 grains with my gold tip 3555's and i have some others my beman classics which are right under 400 grains they both shoot great. just do some testing with your arrows your interested in and shoot from say if your bow is a 45lb i look for arrows inthe 49 to 55 range of weight for my bow and i have found that they shoot excellent and i group well out to 20 yards. i will be doing some testing a little later at farther distances.
rob k


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## Steve T (Nov 3, 2005)

*What are you shooting?*

Travis,
It can make a difference on how you select your arrows based on what type of bow you shoot. You didn't say if you had a bow already or not or if you have a preference on what kind you want to buy. Your shaft length also plays a big part in arrow selection.

Usually you can get away with a little more spine on recurves than longbows. Recurves are usually more centershot than longbows. You need a little less spine with the longbows for the arrow paradox to clear the bow. ie if you have a 50lb recurve and a 50lb longbow. You could use 50-55s or 55-60s with the recurve, but would probably use 45-50s or 50-55s with the longbow. Your arrow shaft length with play into this alot as the longer the shaft the less your effective spine. Rule of thumb is every inch over 28" add 5lbs and every inch less than 28" subtract 5lbs.


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## Tlvoskamp (Aug 4, 2004)

Thanks for your replies. My bow is a Fred Bear Montana longbow 55lbs. I was thinking of ordering that three rivers arrow test kit to see what pound arrow would fly best. You mentioned you made your own arrows. Where do you get your hickory shafts.

Tl voskamp


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## Steve T (Nov 3, 2005)

*Allegheny Mountain Arrow Woods*

Travis,
I buy my shafts from Allegheny Mountain Arrow Woods. He has a website with some information about the different types of wood he carries. He sells quality shafts and is a very personable guy.

Do you know what your drawlength is on that Montana? It's not going to be the same that you pulled on your compound. If you can let us know your drawlength - I'm sure we can get you close on an arrow setup - length, spine, point weight, and fletching.

I draw 27" and am shooting a 29" arrow with 145 grain point, 5" sheild cut fletching, and spined at 55-60lbs. My bow is marked 63lbs @ 28" so I estimate I'm pulling around 60lbs at my drawlength. Bareshafting shows me just a hair weak in spine. My flight is great so this is where I'm at for now. 

Some advance warning. Even if you get the correct setup for your arrow and you end up seeing it do some ariel acrobatics doesn't mean it's the arrows fault. You can do alot to mess up your arrow flight by torqueing the bow and releasing poorly. Make sure your shooting form is on before you judge your arrow.


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## Tlvoskamp (Aug 4, 2004)

Steve,

I currently draw 29.25" with my compound, and I use a release. So I have no clue where that will put me with my montana. What is your best guess as to which poundage increment my arrow will likely need to be. Also what are your thoughts on Broadheads. I know I am opening up all sorts of discussion points but you seem like a wise guy, so I am ready for advice. I like the Zwickey 2 blades, not sure which model, and the wensel Woodsmans, but it seems people have a hassle sharpening those I also am uncertain as to what grain head to shoot. Anyway, any advice on arrows would be great(Length, spine, and heads). My goal is to shoot accurate and have a solid enough arrow set up that will penetrate great.

Thanks, Travis


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## Steve T (Nov 3, 2005)

Tlvoskamp said:


> Steve,
> 
> I currently draw 29.25" with my compound, and I use a release. So I have no clue where that will put me with my montana. What is your best guess as to which poundage increment my arrow will likely need to be. Also what are your thoughts on Broadheads. I know I am opening up all sorts of discussion points but you seem like a wise guy, so I am ready for advice. I like the Zwickey 2 blades, not sure which model, and the wensel Woodsmans, but it seems people have a hassle sharpening those I also am uncertain as to what grain head to shoot. Anyway, any advice on arrows would be great(Length, spine, and heads). My goal is to shoot accurate and have a solid enough arrow set up that will penetrate great.
> 
> Thanks, Travis


Travis,
Not knowing your shooting style/form with the compound it would be hard to guess what your draw length would be with the Montana. Doug Bershese's site has a rule of thumb formula that he says works real well. It is on the money with me so let's try it out on you. 

He says the average man is 5'10" and has a draw length of 28" (give or take 1/2"). The reason for bows being rated at 28". For every inch less than that - subtract a 1/2". For every inch greater than that add a 1/2". Based on this rule of thumb where does that put ya? If you are 6' tall you would be around 29". I'm 5'9" tall and pull 27"...so I have stubby arms :teeth: 

I shoot a flemish twist dacron string on my bows. Most wood shafts are spined based on dacron not fast flight. Which leads me to my next question. Does your longbow have a dacron string or a fast flight string? Bershese's rule of thumb for that is to add 15lbs to the spine if using fast flight. Anybody out there that has any experience with fast flight and wood arrows may can add to that, but I don't have a clue when it comes to fast flight.

Broadheads are another item of preference. Try going to this website http://www.tradgang.com/ashby/ It's a report written by Dr. Ashby on broadhead performance based on actual kills. It's very enlightening and may make you rethink what you are currently shooting. There are other reports written by him of which I haven't had a chance to read, but I plan to. I have been using Grizzly broadheads since I started shooting Traditional. A friend of mine who was helping me get started recommended them to me. My reaction to them was "they don't look very cool". Don't be mislead by what may be attractive to you, but look for what is tried and true. I'd recommend a 2 blade cut on contact broadhead with whatever you choose.

I'll take a shot at what I think will work for you. Based on a dacron string on your bow - I'm going to guess you will pull 28". I go two inches more on my shaft for back of point broadhead clearence. With wood arrows you have a taper on your point end that glues into the broadhead and will take up approx 1" . When shooting field points you can pull right onto the shelf (don't recommend it) but when you put broadheads on...well, you get the picture. This puts you at a 30" shaft, spined at I'd say 60-65lbs, 125 grain point, and 5" fletching (your choice of parabolic, shield, etc. cut). I use Bohning Classic nocks with an index tab for the cock feather.

A Hickory shaft (17.5 gr/in = 525gr) + (125 gr Point) + (15 grs fletching & nock) = 665 grains. An Ash shaft ( 15.5 gr/in = 465gr) + (125 gr Point) + (15 grs fletching & nock) = 605 grains. These are not exact as shafts will vary in weight. Sorry for the length of my reply.

I hope others will give you some input as it's always good to get other opinions.


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