# String Twist and Draw Length



## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

*I would add or take out twists to get 1/4-inch*



Droptine4 said:


> I was watching the new LeEarl video and at one point he said you could twist your strings to either shorten your DL or Lengthen it my question is how much do you gain by this 1/2 inch 1 inch or what ??


Hi there Droptine4:

If you need to change your draw length 1/4 each longer or shorter, I add twists or take out twists.

Any more than that, you really should get a different cam or if you have a draw module, you can usually bump your draw length by 1/2-inch.


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## Droptine4 (Dec 6, 2005)

*ok thanks*

Thanks again N & B with this new tribute and d loop i was just shy of where i normally have my string at and 1/4 or or so would be just right i will have my bowshop do this .. Thanks again


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## fuledya (Jan 5, 2006)

nuts&bolts said:


> Hi there Droptine4:
> 
> If you need to change your draw length 1/4 each longer or shorter, I add twists or take out twists.
> 
> Any more than that, you really should get a different cam or if you have a draw module, you can usually bump your draw length by 1/2-inch.


how many twists are you talking about to achieve 1/4"?
3?,4?,5?


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

*Mark a reference arrow*

fuledya:

Come to full draw and have a friend mark your arrow shaft where it touches the arrow rest. Now make a mark 1/4-inch closer to the tip and another mark 1/4-inch closer to the nock.

Now add twists or take out twists until you hit that mark.

I would not try to change the draw length more than 1/4-inch using twists in the string. More than that, you need a different cam or draw length module.


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## fuledya (Jan 5, 2006)

nuts & bolts,
I understand the procedure, what I am asking is there a specific number of twists that will lengthen - shorten drawlength? i.e. 4 twists = 1/4"?
Or is it bow, cam, and string specific? so no real formula.


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## MNmike (Dec 27, 2003)

*no real die-hard formula*

Just depends.:wink: 

I'm sure string length has a factor on how much efect 1 twist has.

Try 3or 4 twists. Do as mentioned above with a old marked off arrow. That's how I do it.

Remember, adding twists to the string shortens DL and decreases pounds.

Also, (solocam) adding twists to the Y cable increases #'s and if memery serves right, increases DL.

So, get everything to spec first, then add or sutract to get the +- 1/4" you want.

I love doing my bow tinkering on my own, saves trips and it's..well, fun.


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## nuts&bolts (Mar 25, 2005)

*No real formula, and nothing magic about 1/4-inch*



fuledya said:


> nuts & bolts,
> I understand the procedure, what I am asking is there a specific number of twists that will lengthen - shorten drawlength? i.e. 4 twists = 1/4"?
> Or is it bow, cam, and string specific? so no real formula.


fuledya:

The rule of thumb for building a bow string is one twist per inch of bowstring length or one twist per 1.5-inches of bowstring length or one twist per 
2-inches of bowstring length. Every bowstring builder does it slightly differently.

The guideline about adding twists or taking out twists in your bowstring speaks to the issue of too many twists rather than too few twists.

If the draw length on your bow is not adjustable via a draw length module, and you need to add or take out twists to adjust the draw length, then 
1/4-inch is a guideline.

If you decide that you current cam gives you a drawlength that is 1/2-inch away from where you need to be, then you have two choices:

1) get a new cam in the proper size where the draw length is within 1/4-inch of what you need the DL to be; 

or

2) you can have a new bowstring made that is shorter than the factory specification for that size cam...if you decide to short-string, you will get less let-off% and less draw weight.

The goal is to add a twist to the bow string, shoot a dozen arrows at a paper plate, and see if your groups improved.

Then, try adding 2 or 3 twists to the bowstring, and see if your groups improve. Keep checking your progress, and document on the paper plate how many additional total twists you added to the bowstring.

Keep a log, like GRIV recommends, and record how the release felt with the change in your bowstring. Did the extra one twist result in the release firing easier? Did you notice any difference in how your back muscles felt? Was it a struggle to get the release to fire? Did the groups get better or worse with one additional twist to the string?

Repeat the experiment for two total additional twists in the string. Put up a new paper plate. Yes, this is tedious. There are no shortcuts. If adding 1 twist at a time is too slow, then try adding 2 twists at a time, and then recording your findings in your log.

Accomplished archers with lots of experience in firing a release with back tension really do say that a 1/16th-inch difference in draw length affects their accuracy.

One or two twists probably will result in a 1/16th difference in your draw length. So, you see the basis for running an experiment shooting groups and recording your impressions on how easy the release fired, after just adding a 360-degree full twist to the bowstring.

Go incrementally. Be patient. The results will come. Document your groups by firing at a paper plate. Don't look for us to tell you exactly how many twists to get a 1/4-inch change in your draw length and immediately change your draw length by 1/4-inch and then expect to get a drastic change in your accuracy.

Finding the magic draw length, learning the way to fire a BT release will take time. Find the draw length that allows you to hold steady, allows you to have good form, allows you to transfer the tension to your back muscles and relax your arm muscles.

Keep your draw length where it is right now and shoot for one month. That's another piece of advice from GRIV. We archers spend way too much time tuning our equipment, and not enough time working on our form, our timing, our mental focus.


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