# Release trainer?



## kc hay seed (Jul 12, 2007)

try this make a fish hook with your finger and try pulling it into the trigger with your wrist strap.(do not squeeze the trigger with your finger) get a release with no trigger travel (carter 2-shot,like mikeand rx-1or rx-2) hope this helps. one guy on here used a sling shot with a d loop tyed around the leather patch.


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## archers corner (Jan 30, 2010)

Thanks.
Shot some today rather close to the target just working on the release, the release was better but the aim was off a little.


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## Stormforce (Jul 28, 2009)

Get a large blank target bale that you can't miss and shoot very close to it, like within a yard or two, come to full draw and aim at the centre of the bale, then shut your eyes and focus on releasing the arrow. Instead of squeezing the trigger, hook the finger around the trigger at the first groove in your finger, rather than the tip, then when at full draw, you try to squeeze your shoulder blades together, this will make your release arm move further back and twist slightly (this is "back tension"), this action will make your finger press slightly on the trigger, just enough to activate it, therefore opening up on the loop and releasing the arrow, this method will give you a surprise release because it will happen sometime during the shoulder blade squeezing process. You have to trust the arrow will release at some point, you can't allow yourself to anticipate when it will go off, or this will cause you to become anxious and it will induce target panic. If that happens, you'll be concentrating too much on releasing and not aiming and you'll miss where you want to hit, therefore escalating the anxiety and you'll get full blown target panic. 

Practise this method everyday for an hour or two, every day for at least a week, maybe more. Don't do it for a couple of minutes, then go back to your normal target practise routine. You have to re-train your brain until this new method becomes automatic and you don't have to think about doing it.

The theory is your brain can't think about two, very important, conscious thoughts at the same time, aiming and releasing, one thought will suffer at the expence of the other thought, depending on which is the most important at the time, which is both, see the paradox and the dilemma !!!. You need to practise on the specific method you choose to release until it becomes ingrained, memorised and fully automatic, then that leaves you free to concentrate on the most important part, the aim.

Get "Bernie Pellerite's - Idiot Proof Archery" book (www.robinhoodvideos.com), it will explain a lot about punching a release and target panic, heaps better than I can.


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## archers corner (Jan 30, 2010)

That was great advice.
Have a Happy New Year to all.
Brian


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## quick94stang (Aug 16, 2009)

wow thats good..


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## andyman1970 (Apr 2, 2008)

If you have the budget, this is a great trainer

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/product_info.php?products_id=878&osCsid=4soi7dm1as4abj2qmq049g76c2


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## eflanders (Dec 8, 2007)

Do a search in the DIY section for release trainers. You will find all sorts of them. I made one out of some scraps that works pretty nicely for exactly what you are looking for.


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## Stormforce (Jul 28, 2009)

...if you don't want to shoot a blank bale because of time or work restrictions, you could make a release trainer, like I made at home, it's just a piece of wood, molded to fit in your hand, and on the top, drill at hole, then attach some thick rubber bands to the hole, then link enough rubber bands togethert so they are a couple of rubber bands short of your draw length without being stretched, attach a d-loop (if that is what you use) to the last rubber band in the "chain" and then use it like you would a bow, attach your release to the d-loop, pull the linked rubber band like you are drawing a bow and go through your release method, it will not snap hit your hand, because it's only long enough to apply tension to the jaw mechanism on the release to slip when released. This way you can use it anywhere you like, rather than on the bale, you are freed from the other distractions like muscle fatigue from holding a bow for a long time, drawing bow poundage, etc, all you have to concentrate on it the method of your release and doing it smoothly, without anticipating the release.

This in conjunction with actual blank bale shooting should improve your aim and quickly.

Mick.


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## archers corner (Jan 30, 2010)

Stormforce 
Do you have any pictures?


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## Stormforce (Jul 28, 2009)

...no, but I see if I can take some for ya tomorrow. it's pretty basic, as described in the previous post. I made it after seeing some other bow trainers on the net, like this;


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## Lerie (Aug 23, 2002)

For a simple release trainer - a length of rope will do. This is what I have been using for many years and what they use for new archery enthusiast for the National Archery in the School Programs (NASP). I've been using this to help myself deal with my TP issues that seem to flair-up every once in awhile. To make one of these release trainers I use about 55 inches of 1/8 inch nylon rope for my 28 1/2 inch draw. If your draw is shorter or longer, use less or more of the 1/8 inch nylon. Double the rope up and place the loose ends in the web between your thumb and forefinger of your bow hand. Give yourself some 8 inches or so of the loose rope at the web contact point and let this dangle loosely thru your hand so that the loose ends are exiting at th bottom of your hand once you grasp the rope. For the next step, have your release handy, or if your a finger shooter you already have your release. I'll try and explain for a release shooter, it's the same for a finger shooter with exception that your actually using your fingers or tab. First, pull down some more of the loose ends of the rope thru your light grasp. How much? - I like to pull most of it, leaving about a 2 inch circle above the web of my thumb and forefinger - it's just a whole lot easier for the next step of attaching your release. Attach your release to the rope. Now as if your drawing a bow, start drawing back to how you hold your bow and release at full draw while letting the loosely held rope in your hand slide thru. When you get to full draw, tighten your grip on the rope at your bow hand. You can take your release off the rope. At the point where the loose ends are on the web between your thumb and forefinger, grasp the rope and now tie an overhand know at that point. This will approximate your draw length and require some adjustment. Now place the looped rope over the thumb of your bow hand, attach your release and draw back to your full draw position. Adjust the placement of knot to get to your draw length. Now you have a simple and inexpensive release trainer. When using this release trainer with an open hand, the rope will fly off your hand if a suprise release is executed.

If you have some extra D-loop material you can use that instead of the 1/8 inch nylon, however that's stuff is a lot more expensive.

I help with the children during their archery leagues. I usually make a bunch of these things up before their league starts to have them on hand. One rope that I like to use is the 1/8 inch nylon Utility Rope that Wal-Mart sells in thier Sporting Goods Department. It's usually displayed with the Marine items. There is 45 feet of these spools and if I'm recalling correctly the price is under $2 a spool. Another feature that I like about this is that it comes in colors: yellow, orange, lime green and pink. This fall I even found it in camo, but the price is about doubled. If you do the math, at least with the colored string, with 45 feet on a spool, and if you use 60 inches, you can make 9 of these trainers for less than .25 cents apiece. Of course you can use less than 60 inches for a children's release trainers, but I like making them longer, as you know they are constantly growing. By making these things with a little excess, you can easily readjust for their increased draw length. One thing - don't make too many up with the pink rope - one year I had an excess of pink on hand and made most of the trainers up with it. With the girls, the pink was not an issue, however, with the boys - they would not accept them until I finally made some more up using colors other than pink.

To evolve this release trainer to the next step, I add a piece of 1/2 inch PVC to be used as a handle. I usually cut these 5 inches long, which is more than enough for kids and adults. The one that I use has a 7 inch handle. To make these I cut them to the 5 inch length and clean up the ends and the inside. I then drill holes that are slightly larger than the rope that I'm using on the same side. Pass one end of the rope thru the hole, tie an overhand knot and burn the excess. On the other end of the PVC handle, I pass thru the other end of the rope and tie the overhand knot at approximate draw length and adjust from there. If your making this type of release trainer for kids, you want some excess rope - 5 or more inches. This way you can adjust them as their draw length increases. The rope excess in then tucked inside of the PVC handle. If your an adult, you could actually use this excess to tie on to a 4-6 pound weight to similate bow weight.

Easy to make, not expensive and you can use them anywhere. 

Will try taking some pictures of my trainers and posting them later.


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## aread (Dec 25, 2009)

One tip on making a string bow is to use at least 1/2" nylon rope. It's a lot easier on the "bow" hand. Tie on a regular D loop and adjust it to your draw length.

You don't need a PVC or wooden handle with the thicker rope.

Allen


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## archers corner (Jan 30, 2010)

Guy all this information is excellent. My working hours keep me from shooting during the week I only can shoot Friday Saturday and Sunday so I need a way to practice my release during the evening. This info will help quite a bit 
Thanks
Brian


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## blackjack21 (Jan 13, 2009)

just made one last night,took dowel rod 1 1/2 dia. cut it about 8 inches long,drilled 1/2 inch hole in each end,took a 12 inch bungie cord,cut the metal parts off ,left cord intake,ran one end through each hole,measured stretch of cords.then attached paracord to each end of bungi to fit my draw length(actually 2 inches shorter,amount of stretch in bungie this adds draw weight).tied a d loop in the middle.worked great and acctually has about 30 lbs of draw when bungies are stretched to my draw.....will try to post picts tonight


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## Stormforce (Jul 28, 2009)

archers corner said:


> Stormforce
> Do you have any pictures?


After reading about the rope trainer, I decided to adapt my release trainer to the rope rather then the rubber bands, as it gives a much cleaner release. To adjust for your draw length, just move the knot up the rope until you can apply a small amount of tension on the rope, without over-stretching your bow arm.










The "bow grip" and the counter-weight is made from an old, broken, hardwood "sledge hammer" handle with a short length of dowel in between. The rope attaches to a "twitched" piece of fencing wire to form an eyelet, then it's been epoxied into the top of the "bow grip" handle.










Anyone replicating this may not want to add the counter-balance weight, but it does make a difference applying the right amount of tension to the rope.

Mick.


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## archers corner (Jan 30, 2010)

Thanks Mick
Great job.


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## archers corner (Jan 30, 2010)

Lerie

I was wondering if you might be able to post some pics of your release trainer? 

Your comment was very good and your trainer sound easy to make just wondering how it looks when used.

Thanks


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## Stormforce (Jul 28, 2009)

...just a thought on lerie's design, if you used a short length of PVC pipe, tie the rope off at the top, as stated in lerie's post, but on the bottom of the PVC pipe, drill a hole through one side only, facing you, then feed the rope through the hole and let it slip through the bottom of the pipe, so it's dangling free, fasten a small but heavy enough weight to pull the rope through the hole. Get some "d-loop' cord, loop it around the draw rope and tie the two ends together in an open loop, don't fix it as you normally would, this will allow the "d-loop" to self-centre itself, irregardless of the draw length. "Draw" the rope as you would a bow, go through your release method and release, and in theory, the rope should fall away as the weight is pulling the rope downward and it should mimic the snap forward action of a normal drawstring.










I hope I've explained this adequately, I'll make one tomorrow and post up some photo's for a better explanation.


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## archers corner (Jan 30, 2010)

It Does Thanks


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## xecutioner (Jan 28, 2008)

Buy a marksman wrist sling shot from wal-mart tie a d-loop on sling pouch, it. Need to buy longer tubes less you have a really short draw, works great.


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## kzz1king (Jan 21, 2007)

Exactly what I was thinking of!! Let us know how it works.


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## hunt123 (Jan 17, 2009)

Stormforce said:


> ...just a thought on lerie's design, if you used a short length of PVC pipe, tie the rope off at the top, as stated in lerie's post, but on the bottom of the PVC pipe, drill a hole through one side only, facing you, then feed the rope through the hole and let it slip through the bottom of the pipe, so it's dangling free, fasten a small but heavy enough weight to pull the rope through the hole. Get some "d-loop' cord, loop it around the draw rope and tie the two ends together in an open loop, don't fix it as you normally would, this will allow the "d-loop" to self-centre itself, irregardless of the draw length. "Draw" the rope as you would a bow, go through your release method and release, and in theory, the rope should fall away as the weight is pulling the rope downward and it should mimic the snap forward action of a normal drawstring.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Pretty clever. How does the tension increase as the weight goes up? Doesn't seem like it would.


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## archers corner (Jan 30, 2010)

*My Release Trainer*

I had a little time friday and I came up with this idea. It's a Mix of Elflanders release trainer and this is his link below.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1185886

And Stormforce's idea.

What do you think?

View attachment 971281


The release trainer was made from a piece of oak that was 12" long 2 1/2" wide and 7/8" thick. I made a templet of my bow handle area of the riser and cut it out. The paracord is 1/8" and I cut it around 65". The weight is a Hitch pin I had left over from my HF bow press and a loose D loop material for my release. The knot up from my release cord is to stop the rope from hitting your hand.

The hole for the lower half of the riser, I drilled it on an angle downward a little more than half way then I drilled up from the bottom and sanded everything smooth.

With all that said it leads me to my next question of better understanding back tension release.

When you come to full draw are you trying to bring both shoulder blades together or for a right handed shooter do you just try to bring the right shoulder blade back towards the left and keeping the bow hand focused on the target?


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## Stormforce (Jul 28, 2009)

hunt123 said:


> Pretty clever. How does the tension increase as the weight goes up? Doesn't seem like it would.


Yeah, dunno where I got that idea from, it was pretty late and I was tired, the tension doesn't increase, but stays the same.



archers corner said:


> When you come to full draw are you trying to bring both shoulder blades together or for a right handed shooter do you just try to bring the right shoulder blade back towards the left and keeping the bow hand focused on the target?


I was being a bit simplistic, but you actually want to use the rhomboid muscle, located between the spine and the shoulder blades, right side - back for right handers and left side - back for left handers, the opposite side's muscle should be relaxed. When you come to full draw and are anchored, set your finger lightly but firmly on the trigger of your wrist strap or t-handle release, and instead of slowly squeezing the trigger with your finger or thumb, you increase the tension within (or flex) the rhomboid muscle. If you are doing it right, you should feel a slight burn between your spine and shoulder blade. The action of increasing the tension within the muscle will, by default, make your arm and the finger or thumb along with it, to move ever so slightly, this is just enough movement to set the trigger off. You will know when you're getting the right amount of tension in your rhomboid muscle because of the burn sensation and the release will suddenly let go of the d-loop. The theory is squeezing a muscle is less of an effort, and has less nerve endings than your finger tip or thumb, therefore it's hard to anticipate the actual point in time of release. That is also why you should also have the trigger in the first crease of your finger or thumb, not the tip, as there is less nerve endings there to "feel" the trigger being squeezed. You shouldn't set the trigger too light either, like a "hair" trigger, as a trigger that light may "touch off" during your draw. A nice, firm and smooth trigger action is needed, but with a small to moderate trigger travel distance.


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## archers corner (Jan 30, 2010)

Thanks 
Stormforce that explained it well.


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## Stormforce (Jul 28, 2009)

...actually, when you are doing a "push-up" exercise, when you lift yourself up from the floor, you are using the rhomboids muscles in conjunction with your bicep muscles, so the next time you do a "push-up", place your hands directly underneath your shoulder joints, hands facing inwards, when you get to an inch or so from the floor, hold it for a second or two and you will feel a burn between both shoulder blades running either side of your spine, that is both of the muscles you want to use. But don't build them up too much, as too much muscle bulk will impede the distance your shoulder needs to travel to activate the trigger. Lean and mean is the key here.


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## archers corner (Jan 30, 2010)

Thanks Again 
I'm doing around 120 to 200 pushups regularly I'll give it a try.


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## Stormforce (Jul 28, 2009)

BTW, I like the look of your release trainer, glad it works for ya.

I made mine yesterday too, but used a sliding door, bearing roller wheel for the rope to glide on like a pulley, where you'd normally drill through the bottom of the "riser". I also used a set of old grips to simulate the feel of my normal bow, no point going through the motions, if it just feels wrong. It works well, but the sliding d-loop can be a pain to get back onto the release once you've "shot" it.

I'll have to see if I can use my mate's back tension release to see if it will fire on it, as I think the draw poundage is too light, but we'll see...

Mick.


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