# Samick Sage Recurve, cut past center? finding strike plate position?



## 82ndArcher07 (Aug 29, 2009)

Im going to order a Samick Sage from 3Rivers and im trying to find the right arrows. Im using Stu Millers Dynamic Spine calculator to give me a start in finding the right arrows. My question is what would I enter for the Strike Plate position. Im going to by using a standard Leather Arrow plate from 3rivers archery, what will my strike position be? Also is the Samick Sage cut past center and how do I take this into consideration? 
Thanks Everyone
82nd


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## WindWalker (Jan 23, 2005)

82nd:

I have never used the calculator, but I am assuming that the calculator is asking for the amount the bow may be cut-past-center, in that being cut past center allows the use of a stiffer spine.

These days, many or most modern wood riser recurves are cut *past *center and it seems that a 1/8" cut past the center is common.

Beam up Pete Ward (petew). I believe he field tested the Sage and may be able to tell you if the Sage is a CPC 'curve and how much a cut.


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

The Sage is cut past center, i.e., a centershot bow. Because the past center cut makes room, you can use an adjustable rest/plunger combo or plate build out. Optimally, the arrow tip should be set via the strikeplate/plunger to slightly outboard the string, but with a centershot bow, you have the option to set where needed from center on out to achieve tune. Though the calc does allow for a strike plate setting to the negative of center, this is not really an optimal position to pick a tuneable arrow from if that position puts the arrow inboard of the string.


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## Lowmanj (Sep 1, 2010)

I am shooting a 60# sage and Heritage 250 arrows at 29" long. They are about 444 grains and shoot really nice. I am also shooting of the shelf and I really like this bow. Dont let the price fool you. It is a nice shooting bow. I tried to shoot off of a rest and didn't like it. I dont have any material for the rest or a strike plate at the moment and it is shooting straight. Hope this information is usefull.


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## BowmanJay (Jan 1, 2007)

Sounds to me like your asking where to place your strike piece of leather? I would place it in the exact center of the riser. Your arrow should rest on the horizontal portion just fine. Those bows are considered a center shot bow even if the cut out is slightly more than center point. If you measure and your piece of leather is slightly past center point of the string, you can always add a wood match stick under it to help build it up. This is also a common practice to reduce to contact amount of the arrow to the shelf.


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

BJ, Need to add some clarification. The diameter of the arrow comes to play in the equation and final decision. A cut-to-center bow is not a centershot bow. A shelf wall cut "at (to) center" means the arrow can only sit to the left of the string on a RH bow. The arrow can never be center closer than 1/2 the diameter of the arrow. For my FatBoys on a cut-to-center shelf, which are 9.3mm (slightly larger than an 11/32" arrow), the center of the arrow will sit more than 1/8" to the left of center, which come out good for them. On a cut-past-center bow, like a Sage, I could still get a slight off-set to the string center by having the strike plate 1/8" past center. Any more past center than that and I would have the arrow past center as well.


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## 82ndArcher07 (Aug 29, 2009)

OK so it sounds right now that its all kind of depends on the exact measure of how far is it cut past center, how thick my arrow plate is and the arrow diameter. Im just trying to find a starting point for what spine I should buy my arrows in. 
As of right now my arrows are looking like:
-500 spine
-125 grain points
-uncut or 30" long 
with 5" feathers. 
Everything sound in check for a 45# recurve?
Thanks guys.


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## Sanford (Jan 26, 2009)

82nd, it doesn't matter how much it is cut past center as long as it leaves enough room for you to adjust back to where you want. If it were not cut past center enough, and you wanted to shoot a large diameter arrow at center, you could not. On the Sage, you should have plenty of room to adjust out to where you want your arrow to sit. 

Now, the calc does have a setting for 1/8" past center, which for some arrows and with some rest material will mean you are probably shooting center in the end. Also, it would not make sense for you to buy a centershot bow and then calc via the calc for new arrows, say, 1/8" before center or more, unless you just wanted to shoot that way. If you already have close arrows, the centershot bow is a plus for tuning the bow to the arrow.

On your specs: I shoot the same spine arrows, uncut, same grain up front, and 3" feathers on a 40# bow. It is set with arrow tip just to the left of string center on an elevated rest and plunger combo. They are perfect, but my DL probably gives me a draw poundage close to where you are of a few pounds.


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