# stabilization at different distances.



## bigHUN (Feb 5, 2006)

its you


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## Stash (Jun 1, 2002)

Stabilizers don't know how far away the target is. It's you.


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## Lazarus (Sep 19, 2005)

bighun said:


> its you


x 3


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## carlielos (May 12, 2007)

Could be a second axis issue are you shooting on level ground? How true is your bubble do you have a bubble?


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## montigre (Oct 13, 2008)

The perceived float always becomes greater as the distance being shot increases.... this is part of training yourself to relinquish control and trust your float. The more trust you're able to accomplish, the greater your confidence will become and the float will diminish. 

That's why it is important to take "baby steps" while starting out and increase the distance shot slowly so the float does not become overwhelming right off the bat.


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## TNMAN (Oct 6, 2009)

Been told that gravity only works straight down. Stabilization definitely changes as distance increases and the angle of launch increases. But probably not enough to make a world of difference. Shoot an 80 yard target 40 degrees uphill and you can tell the difference for sure, but there are then bigger problems to deal with.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

All things as they should be, I agree with montigre. When I took up Field I started up close and personal, 20 feet, and shot in my bow for every foot and every yard on back. When I got to 80 yards it was just a matter of letting the pin settle and dead meat. Adding Hunter was a piece of cake...

Perceived movement is also related to fear, a mind thing. "Oh God, that's along ways." Nope. You shoot 80 yards just like you do 20 yards.


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## Igotdem300's (Apr 20, 2014)

Thanks Guys, Ill take some "baby steps". Thanks!


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

One of the things you need to do is stop shooting at 20 yards and then backing up, I learned this lesson years ago that going outside and warming up at lets say 50 yards and shooting there for a hour or so and then as I am finishing I will move up to the closer distances and smoke the short targets a few times and be done. Shooting at the short distances first always gives you a reverse and counter productive impression of your float and grouping and overall performance because as you move back the groups are growing and the float is getting bigger.


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## Padgett (Feb 5, 2010)

Here are a couple of things you must do when working on your float:

1. Study your float: this is something that very few people ever do and it is a huge mistake to not do it, all you do is draw back and study or watch the float pattern without shooting and then let down. Then draw and shoot and try to use that same float when shooting, what you are going to find is that when you are shooting you are going to see a different float that isn't as good as when you know you aren't going to shoot. Then you can spend a few months teaching yourself how to shoot with your true float.

2. Take all of the weights off of your stabs and lay them down and shoot with just the plain stabs, you will hate the float. Then start adding weight and shooting and adding weight and shooting and sooner or later you will find a really good combination that gives you a good float.

I teach hinge shooting all the time and I use a variety of firing engines to fire my hinges and i have found that some engines allow me to use my good float better than others, you may need to learn a few different ways to fire your release and then find the one you shoot the best with.


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## Deputy Archer (Apr 12, 2009)

Could be your anchor. I know when I was shooting my Co I was only only shooting 250 fps with a 27 inch draw. When I shot 80 plus my anchor would change due to my scope housing being so low. I felt like my anchor would flat due to me lifting my head to center the sight in the peep.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Deputy Archer said:


> Could be your anchor. I know when I was shooting my Co I was only only shooting 250 fps with a 27 inch draw. When I shot 80 plus my anchor would change due to my scope housing being so low. I felt like my anchor would flat due to me lifting my head to center the sight in the peep.


I'm going to disagree... Slowest bow I had for Field was 257 fps. If anything peep location sometimes needs changed to give a happy medium. You just don't give up a good anchor and expect accuracy to still be there...


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## Ned250 (Aug 10, 2009)

SonnyThomas said:


> I'm going to disagree... Slowest bow I had for Field was 257 fps. If anything peep location sometimes needs changed to give a happy medium. You just don't give up a good anchor and expect accuracy to still be there...


I agree with you.

This issue is likely all mental...montigre is spot on, IMO.


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## N7709K (Dec 17, 2008)

So you shoot 50m out back before Vegas, Shawn? 

As you move back the perceived movement increases- as this increase happens changes to dl and bars are needed; twists into/out of string and an oz here or there to being float at distance to as good or better than indoors.

What's your setup now? What dl and letoff? Aggressive shot style?


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## nochance (Nov 27, 2008)

yes as others have said your perceived movement a longer distances is different. You correction will vary based on distance. Thus, stepping back 1 yd at a time will let you adapt easier than jumping from say 20 yds to 30 or 40.


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## montigre (Oct 13, 2008)

Padgett said:


> One of the things you need to do is stop shooting at 20 yards and then backing up, I learned this lesson years ago that going outside and warming up at lets say 50 yards and shooting there for a hour or so and then as I am finishing I will move up to the closer distances and smoke the short targets a few times and be done. Shooting at the short distances first always gives you a reverse and counter productive impression of your float and grouping and overall performance because as you move back the groups are growing and the float is getting bigger.


I have to disagree with you on this. If a seasoned shooter always starts at say 20 yards and then progressively goes back to longer distances, this can also create a shooters rut (this is a vastly different scenario than someone just starting out shooting longer distances, which I believe is the OPs situation.) 

As a seasoned archer and if I was planning on shooting a scoring day, I find it better to either warm up at 20 or 60 yards and then shoot a field half or mix up what distances I will be shooting for the remainder of the day. If working on a piece of form, then I usually shoot that at whatever distance I am seeing that particular form issue break down or mix that up with that distance and a shorter distance to add reinforcement. I find it much more fruitful to plan the practice to whatever my goal is for that session....if it is tournament prep, then I shoot whatever format I will be shooting at the competition and even better with a friend or two to add a little pressure. 

Archery is a fluid sport that does not lend itself very well to rigidity.


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