# Any metal detector capable of finding an all-carbon arrow?



## Johndburk (Apr 29, 2011)

Lost my first $$ arrow this evening (CX Nano SST, about $29 with components), buried itself in grass less than 2in long probably no more than 15 yds behind the 70m bale, I know it's in there somewhere...

Can anyone recommend a metal detector that's:

a.) capable of finding an all-carbon arrow only by the 110gn point
b.) doesn't cost upwards of $300?

or are all-carbon arrows essentially invisible to all but high-end metal detectors?


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## c365 (May 15, 2013)

I've been out of metal detecting for many decades now but to answer the question about needing a "all but high end detectors", absolutely not. Assuming the metal point is perhaps no more than 3 or so inches deep, perhaps deeper, any detector should be able to find it. The only thing is, you have to pass the search coil right above or very close to the metal point, by searching in a grid pattern. As to what detectors cost and features today, I have no idea, but they are probably better than what I used 30+ years ago. I had a Garrett and White.

To answer your title, No, they will not detect carbon, (unless it has some metel in it)


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## gjlama94 (Oct 11, 2013)

Dick's has a Jr Bounty Hunter for $60 or so. It will detect the tip just fine as well as aluminum. As long as it isn't deeper than you indicate, it should find it as long as you are methodical doing the sweep.


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## hdracer (Aug 8, 2007)

I have the Bounty Hunter Quicksilver from BP. Works very well but YOU have to use it correctly. I'll assume you only have metal tip and no nock insert (if you do you may find it quicker). Since you are looking for a very small object I'd start at the high setting until it pings then adjust the sensitivity down as you decrease the search area. We use arrow "rakes"...one is an old golf club with a hooked end, mine is a dowel rod with a hook screwed into the end. Once you find a target, rake the grass perpendicular to the arrow shaft but don't pull so hard you break the arrow. Some of us have gotten very good at finding arrows the kids lose. Jim C is probably the best at finding them at the US Nationals.

But to answer your question, yes, MD's can find carbon arrows with metal tips but it isn't easy.


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## Brenton (Oct 4, 2005)

A cheap ebay one will do the job, I have one and as long as I can careful always find my student's arrows on the school oval. Also an ebay Ultra Violet LED torch works awesome at night time as it can make nocks and vanes glow.. very easy to find them in grass or "just" under the surface.


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## midwayarcherywi (Sep 24, 2006)

Brenton said:


> A cheap ebay one will do the job, I have one and as long as I can careful always find my student's arrows on the school oval. Also an ebay Ultra Violet LED torch works awesome at night time as it can make nocks and vanes glow.. very easy to find them in grass or "just" under the surface.


Great idea about the UV LED torch. I'll have to try that!

Metal detectors will only find points and inserts and makes the argument for new shooters shooting aluminum arrows, or carbon wrapped aluminum arrows.


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

2nd the Bounty Hunter Jr. (I've used one for years and have found many carbon arrows by detecting their metal points or pins) and 2nd the UV LED torch. One of my JOAD parents has found tons of arrows using this method, just after sunset, to the delight of many of our JOAD archers.

But remember too that no dozen arrows is truly competitive until you've lost at least one.  Just assure yourself that the one you lost was the cull, and keep shooting.


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## Johndburk (Apr 29, 2011)

limbwalker said:


> ... 2nd the UV LED torch. One of my JOAD parents has found tons of arrows using this method, just after sunset, to the delight of many of our JOAD archers.
> 
> But remember too that no dozen arrows is truly competitive until you've lost at least one.  Just assure yourself that the one you lost was the cull, and keep shooting.


The UV torch sounds like a good compromise between cost, area searched in a given time and convenience. I'll grab one off Amazon and take another look tomorrow evening after shooting (how do they ever make money off of 1-day shipping?), otherwise just write it off to experience. Good advice as always, thanks Limbwalker.


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## Jim C (Oct 15, 2002)

when looking for carbon arrows with a pin nock-as soon as I get an alert I move a couple feet each way to see if I get another. 

BTW PARENTS-this is why I advocate stuff like ACC or AC GOLD or Cartel Experts for newer shooters rather than Carbon Ones or similar arrows.


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## Johndburk (Apr 29, 2011)

My arrows were built with CX pin nocks, but I didn't think there would be enough metal in the pin to register. I've noticed the portion of the pin that inserts into the arrow on the CX pins is solid, compared to the ACE pins which are hollow, so if you've previously detected pins, then the CX pins should definitely register.

JimC: have you used several different metal detectors and have a favourite, or does just about anything do the job?


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## Blackshadow (Dec 15, 2012)

I put one of these on a broom stick: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Linzer-4-in-Paint-Roller-Frame-HD-RF-100-11/202097490
Along with my metal detector I can find just about anything. Arrow composition influences my buying decision. My "class" arrows are all aluminum.


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## midwayarcherywi (Sep 24, 2006)

I've seen guys with very nice metal detectors who couldn't find squat. It is more about how well you use the metal detector versus how good the piece of equipment is. Kind of like a neophyte with top flight archery equipment..... right John? Ha, that is an entirely new thread.


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## Tony Bagnall (Sep 8, 2012)

I search for my family's arrows using a whites prizm metal detector.. it works ... It wont detect the carbon on the arrow but picks up the metal field point. I have found twenty or more that missed the target. My Wife and i were learning to shoot with a hinge so we had quite a few misfires until we read Padgetts posts!


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## c365 (May 15, 2013)

midwayarcherywi said:


> I've seen guys with very nice metal detectors who couldn't find squat. It is more about how well you use the metal detector versus how good the piece of equipment is. Kind of like a neophyte with top flight archery equipment..... right John? Ha, that is an entirely new thread.


More than likely they didn't know squat about setting and using the detector. As I recall from the detectors I had way back, you had to set the ground cancelling and discrimination levels, although I imagine the machines today does that automatically.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

Blackshadow said:


> I put one of these on a broom stick: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Linzer-4-in-Paint-Roller-Frame-HD-RF-100-11/202097490
> Along with my metal detector I can find just about anything. Arrow composition influences my buying decision. My "class" arrows are all aluminum.


This used to be our position until we really started using the 10-14lb bows for teaching first time lessons and the size of the group got real large. Then all of a sudden we were having hangers and bounce outs way too often because the bows were not strong enough to really put the arrow into the some of the target. We were breaking a lot more arrows than we were loosing due to impacts on hangers or kids tripping/stepping on them. Broken arrows generally can't be saved.. Lost arrows often eventually show up and we have pretty good success finding arrows all things considered.

Going to the superclub arrows fixed the hangers and most of the bounce outs (faster lighter arrows) but now we lose more than we break or damage. So far I think we have come out ahead in this area.


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## limbwalker (Sep 26, 2003)

Believe it or not, they have an App for that.  One of my parents downloaded a metal detector app, and it actually worked. She found one of her daughter's arrows using it. I have absolutely no idea how it worked, or if she was just lucky, but it worked.


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## Blackshadow (Dec 15, 2012)

Believe it or not I've had most of the same arrows for about 15 years.


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## wags2 (Jan 26, 2009)

This is ironic, I just used a metal detector today to find a xr medallion for my son. Fairly cheap detector from radio shack $89 if I recall. They had the same one at a sporting good store here. We had a good idea of where it was at and got a hit right away (pin nock) and moved forward and back to make sure we got the bit on the other end. Just use a good grid search and you should find it easily.


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## c365 (May 15, 2013)

Out of curiosity, I dug out one of my 1980's detectors and amazingly it still works, it pays to be a packrat sometimes. Glad for this thread, I'll keep it in the car just in case.


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

limbwalker said:


> Believe it or not, they have an App for that.  One of my parents downloaded a metal detector app, and it actually worked. She found one of her daughter's arrows using it. I have absolutely no idea how it worked, or if she was just lucky, but it worked.


Any smart phone that has a compass feature (such as the iPhone) has magnetic field sensors built, a feature in that apps can exploit as a "metal detector".


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

c365 said:


> More than likely they didn't know squat about setting and using the detector. As I recall from the detectors I had way back, you had to set the ground cancelling and discrimination levels, although I imagine the machines today does that automatically.


That's one of the areas where you supposedly get the bang for the buck with the more expensive detectors, with automatic ground level settings for the base level of metal in the soil. As someone who knows very little about detectors I can't tell how much of the increase in price is really an increase in the performance of the detector, nor whether that performance really requires hundreds of dollars in extra circuitry. :dontknow:


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## c365 (May 15, 2013)

Warbow said:


> That's one of the areas where you supposedly get the bang for the buck with the more expensive detectors, with automatic ground level settings for the base level of metal in the soil. As someone who knows very little about detectors I can't tell how much of the increase in price is really an increase in the performance of the detector, nor whether that performance really requires hundreds of dollars in extra circuitry. :dontknow:


I just did a quick Google on detectors and seems most of the companies from the 1980's are still making detectors. The prices seem reasonable for a basic one, about $100 or less and plenty good enough for finding arrows. It would take a few evenings to get familiar with all the features of the top detectors in the $2000 range.

Metal detecting was a lot of fun but took so much time, the main reason I gave it up. Something like gambling, you don't want to quit because that gold coin may be a few steps ahead...haha! I'd usually go out about 7 am and before you know it, it's 1 in the afternoon. Did find a lot of historic coins, many in the parks in SF where they had tent cities after the 06 quake. Barber dimes around the turn of the century, tons of silver coins like the standing liberty quarters and half dollars. Silver and gold will remain in the ground for hundreds of years like new when cleaned.

Ah, please don't get me started...


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

Hmm. This company is for sale now.

http://www.arrowrecover.com/index.htm

This is the one we have at the range. While it has not been quite as successful with our carbon arrows (it does detect the points and pins) it has found many an aluminum arrow. Nice thing about this one is it packs into a quiver and uses your extra arrows with inserts as a handle.

DC


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

c365 said:


> Metal detecting was a lot of fun but took so much time, the main reason I gave it up. Something like gambling, you don't want to quit because that gold coin may be a few steps ahead...haha! I'd usually go out about 7 am and before you know it, it's 1 in the afternoon. Did find a lot of historic coins, many in the parks in SF where they had tent cities after the 06 quake. Barber dimes around the turn of the century, tons of silver coins like the standing liberty quarters and half dollars. Silver and gold will remain in the ground for hundreds of years like new when cleaned.
> 
> Ah, please don't get me started...


Sounds a bit like archery, doing something the hard way for the fun of it. You could probably just buy the coins you find for less time and money than one spends on detecting, but that wouldn't be the same...

You must have sifted through lots and lots of "trash" if you were hunting for things as small as a dime with a detector. :mg: I can see why it would take lots of time and patience.


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## Warbow (Apr 18, 2006)

dchan said:


> Hmm. This company is for sale now.
> 
> http://www.arrowrecover.com/index.htm
> 
> ...


A great, clever little detector. I love the fact you can fit it into a quiver. And the kids love playing with it. I've never found a carbon arrow by the points or pin with it, though. It doesn't have any settings other than on and off.


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## Blackshadow (Dec 15, 2012)

You are fortunate to be at an archery range. I teach at multiple locations including football and soccer fields so I cannot leave arrows behind.



dchan said:


> This used to be our position until we really started using the 10-14lb bows for teaching first time lessons and the size of the group got real large. Then all of a sudden we were having hangers and bounce outs way too often because the bows were not strong enough to really put the arrow into the some of the target. We were breaking a lot more arrows than we were loosing due to impacts on hangers or kids tripping/stepping on them. Broken arrows generally can't be saved.. Lost arrows often eventually show up and we have pretty good success finding arrows all things considered.
> 
> Going to the superclub arrows fixed the hangers and most of the bounce outs (faster lighter arrows) but now we lose more than we break or damage. So far I think we have come out ahead in this area.


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## dchan (Jun 29, 2004)

When I teach on fields where I can't leave arrows I would use alloy arrows as well. I also put up an arrow curtain to shorten the space I usually need to search for arrows. Couple of volley ball poles and guy wires to put the curtain up.


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## Blackshadow (Dec 15, 2012)

*indoor rig*

Here's a pic of my indoor set up. Arrow curtain purchased from Flaghouse.


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## Steve N (Apr 27, 2004)

If a metal detector can't find a lost arrow, I use the "barefoot hillbilly" technique. Mark out the area you want to search, using arrows stuck into the ground at the four corners of your search area. Take your shoes and socks off. Starting at one corner of the grid closest to the target, walk perpendicular to the arrow path, overlapping your feet by about a half step. At the end of your path, turn 180 degrees, move 1 foot away from the target, and repeat your walk. When you step on an arrow, you will feel it with your feet. It will feel like stepping on a stick. Obviously not a smart way to look for broadheads!


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