# Aluminum VS Wood Riser on a Takedown Recurve



## dave*

I am seriously thinking of taking the plunge into the world of recurve shooting.

Got started with compound , would now like something to play with at the range, potentially do a little bowfishing with, and if things progress the trad class in 3D. Low maintenance and durablity is a must, so leaning to the aluminum riser recurve side of things.

I like the idea of a take down for the ablity to swap limbs for # and or if any issues like limb breakage/damage. Portablity and compactness a bonus.

I am not fussy about looks ( my latest compound is one wacky looking beast , APA)

Now near as I can tell an aluminum riser should have the following advantages
over a more traditional wood bow

- more impervious to weather
- stronger
- easier to tune if a "center shot design"
- drilled/tapped for accessories, stab/sight/reel/rest/quiver
- less maintenance
- potential familiar handle "feel" to my compounds

Possible disadvantages to aluminum riser recurve over wood

- heavier?
- noisier?
- more vibration?
- sinks if dropped


Have I overlooked anything? 


I am looking at the Hoyt Gamemaster II/Dorado right now, just spent a few hours post search function reading up on those two.

Are there any other alu riser recurves I should look at?

Am I premature in ruling out the wood risers?



Draw length is around 27" on the compound so limb stacking probably shouldnt be an issue on whatever I get.


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## Jack NZ

First,there's lot of very nice wood risers out there.
2nd,,For what you describe,either a Quinn or a Dorado would suit you perfectly.
This is of course only my opinion,an your going to get a few more yet.


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## Two Blade

Is the Dorado Aluminum or Magnesium? Also, x2 on the Dorado.


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## Viper1

dave -

Your analysis is almost correct:

- more impervious to weather
- stronger
- easier to tune if a "center shot design" (Most are)
- drilled/tapped for accessories, stab/sight/reel/rest/quiver
- less maintenance
- potential familiar handle "feel" to my compounds

SPOT ON.

- heavier? Usually, but for actual shooting that may be more of a plus than a minus.
- noisier? Maybe, but not always. Set up and tuning factor in - BIG TIME.
- more vibration NOPE - usually LESS.
- sinks if dropped - Well, I guess ....

I also think some of them look pretty cool. Also, don't get hung up on the aluminum vs. magnesium thing. Some of the best shooting risers were/are cast magnesium.

Viper1 out.


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## BLACK WOLF

Another benefit for metal risers.

In most cases...take 2 identically shaped risers and make one out of wood and the other out of metal while using identical limbs...the bow with the metal riser should be slightly faster due to the riser flexing less.

Even though we can't see it with the naked eye...studies have shown that the riser still flexes...so a riser made of stiffer material or a riser designed around a stiffer geometry will utilize the stored energy more efficiently.

Ray


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## Hawksnest88

I had two GameMasters, a I and a II, only after I put a set of Samick long limbs on the II was I happy. They shoot well for hunting, but I also have owned Quinn Stallions and Quinn XL bows. The Quinns are much better all around, and are about half the price of the GMs. I sold both GameMasters a while back. I shoot both wood risers and metal risers, recurves & longbows, and like them all. Bill G.


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## Floxter

If the metal riser is one designed to accept ILF limbs there are further advantages than those already mentioned. An ILF riser will have adjustability in terms of limb weight (usually +/-5%), adjustability in terms of tiller, and the ability to accept limbs from a variety of manufacturers and a variety of lengths.


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## Hawksnest88

Floxter is correct, I had to turn bushings on my lathe and take out the ILF fittings to put ILF limbs on my GameMaster or my Quinn. ILF limbs on an ILF riser are much better. Bill


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## dave*

Thanks for the replies guys.

Valuable info for sure, leaning to aluminum for sure now.

Hoyt is in the top running just due to availablity, need to look up the Quinns, see if any around locally.

Found a few posts RE gamemaster II/dorados and converting to ILF limbs, apparently Lancaster sells a bushing kit for about 20 bucks to make the conversion. Not sure if I will need to do the conversion but nice to know I could if needed.


Dave*


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## petew

I shoot both types, but if you walk a lot with the bow a light wood riser is a blessing, and if you hunt in the cold wood is also tops.
Most wood risers today are cut past center, so tuning is not to dificult. It is not difficult if they are not cut past actualy. 
There are also wood ILF risers,to be considered. 
The metal and wood risers in ILF are very shooter friendly if you set them up properly ,and get the right limbs for your draw length.They are rugged, and I guarantee they will sink.LOL some wood will also.

If you treat any bow with reasonable care it will survive quite well.
I have a few reviews of both types on my site that may be of interest. Look in the trad reviews at www.peteward.com

Pete


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## Jack NZ

dave* said:


> Thanks for the replies guys.
> 
> Valuable info for sure, leaning to aluminum for sure now.
> 
> Hoyt is in the top running just due to availablity, need to look up the Quinns, see if any around locally.
> 
> Found a few posts RE gamemaster II/dorados and converting to ILF limbs, apparently Lancaster sells a bushing kit for about 20 bucks to make the conversion. Not sure if I will need to do the conversion but nice to know I could if needed.
> 
> 
> Dave*


You only need to do the conversion if you go to an after market ILF type limb.
The Standard Hoyt limbs for both the GM and the Dorado are Hoyts cheaper limbs.When I bought my Dorado I only shot it for about two weeks before I went looking for a better limb,and I replaced the standard limbs with Trad Tech Carbon woods which are made for TT by Samick.
The Carbon woods changed the whole feel and performance of the bow.
The Funny thing is, I then put the Hoyt Dorado limbs onto a 23" Samick riser,and the resulting bow shoots real well with them.
Oh yeah,the conversion either way takes about 5 minites,,,but it also voids any warranty that may of come with the bow.


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## Barry O'Regan

wood risers dont do too well if you drop em in a lake when bowfishing, stick with aluminum, or better yet for bowfishing go fiberglass


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## backspace

Coming from the compound world as you are and many of us did, I would recommend a metal riser and some type of flipper/plunger rest. This will allow you to concentrate on your shooting and tune rather easily. ALso, the metal riser will be more like a compound riser feel in your hand.

Most of all, is the ability to use ILF limbs. You will probably go up in draw weight and may want to keep a low weight set of limbs for from work. Some ILF limbs are very inexpensive yet are a very good l.imb.

I personally like the ILF set up better than the Dorado or Quinn since there are so many available limb options, although both are fine bows.


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## Darton01

Also you can convert the ILF limbs to fit the risers of the Dorado and GM. Lancaster Archery Supply/TradTech has the conversion kit and they are a sponser here too.:thumbs_up


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## LBR

> Now near as I can tell an aluminum riser should have the following advantages
> over a more traditional wood bow


- more impervious to weather--thoretically, but wood bows have been used sucessfully in pretty much all climates, from tropical to arctic. I hate a metal riser in cold weather.

- stronger--again, theoretically, but it's very rare for a riser to break--wood or metal.

- easier to tune if a "center shot design"--many (most) wood risered recurves are available cut to/past center, and some will allow for a berger button insert if wanted.


- drilled/tapped for accessories, stab/sight/reel/rest/quiver--most recurves allow for these same inserts


- less maintenance--not really.


- potential familiar handle "feel" to my compounds--maybe--been too long since I've shot a compound.

Possible disadvantages to aluminum riser recurve over wood

- heavier?--usually--good mass weight can be a plus, but there's a point where it's just too much, especially when you are walking all day or fishing all night.

- noisier?--yes, especialy in a hunting situation where the riser can get bumped.

- more vibration?--shouldn't be

- sinks if dropped--lots of wood bows will also

I'm about as rough as anybody on my bows--they are tools. Bowfishing can be rough on any bow--banged around in the boat, gets soaked in water/mud/blood/fish goo/etc. No problems for me or any of my friends who bowfish--we all use wood risered bows, and have for years.

If you just prefer a metal riser, nothing wrong with that--just make an informed decision.

Chad


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## ROB B

*my .02 cents worth*

I love the feel of wood, warmer with out a doubt. But my alum do feel more like a compound in the grips, most TD wood risers I have shot have bigger grips and as I have a small hand that counts for something. 
I have a Massie Longbow I special ordered with the locator grip , long and short of it, I hate it and the bow does not have 100 arrows through it. Waste of $600. don't take that wrong It was my mistake, I got exactly what I ordered. But it brought home the importance of a bow feeling good in YOUR hand not someone else's JMHO


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## dwalk

this subject comes up frequently and ususually is dealt with very well and positively by all...here's my thoughts...

in the past, BW and browning have made metal handles i wish i had purchased. now when, and if they may be found, they sometime command more than i wish to pay, however...i do have a hoyt gamemaster as well as a bob lee take down and like them both very much...

here's one i'll bet not many, if any, of you have ever seen...


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## scriv

*Recurve*

Handle as many as you can. Buy the one that "speaks" to you. Traditional gear can be a personal experience unlike compounds. Above all, have fun.


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## Flint Hills Tex

I never shot a Hoyt (recurve) I didn't like! But, with the exception of the GM I, they were target recurves. Hoyt's carbon foam target limbs or Samick's carbon wood (TradTech, for example) are great ILF limb choices, and definitely smoother and quieter that the wood-glass GM/Dorado limbs.

A number of fellows from the trad hunting scene are wild about trying the new Hoyt Excel, a machined alum target riser in 23" or 21". The advantage of this riser is that it is short and accepts all ILF limbs. Now, I've never shot this model, as it's just coming out on the market. You might want to test shoot at a pro shop. Stick with ILF, no matter whether you go with a wood or metal riser. Most modern ILF risers and limbs are pretty impervious to the elements.


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