# Hoyt Carbon Element Timing - is it off?



## jbmobley (Mar 28, 2009)

2012 Carbon Element
65 lbs
29.5" DL
29.25" Cut to Cut 300 Spine Gold Tip kinetic

Don't have a draw board, but i am wondering if my buds CE i am messing with is out of time based on paper tuning efforts. I have been shooting through paper and consistently getting a decent hole with a fletched shaft, but bare shaft is cutting tail low. I have tried to move the rest down but can not force a tail high tear. Left to right it is great. I am wondering if it is the cam timing? I don't have a draw board, but trying to figure which cable to adjust. I haven't messed with the hoyts much at all since shooting single cams the past few years. It sounds like i adjust the control cable to affect the timing based on other posts. Do you loosen or tighten if you were getting a low tear? Am i on the right track for my tuning issues?

Thanks
J.B.


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## little buddy (Dec 20, 2004)

Can you draw it while your buddy watches. As you get to full draw have him watch to see if the Cables are hitting the stops at the same time.


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## jbmobley (Mar 28, 2009)

He isn't here unfortunately. 



little buddy said:


> Can you draw it while your buddy watches. As you get to full draw have him watch to see if the Cables are hitting the stops at the same time.


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## Bandit (Jan 16, 2006)

If you have a mirror, try drawing it in front of the mirror standing where you can see the draw stops. Works for me when nobody is around to help.


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

*Hoyt Carbon Element Timing - is it off?Edit Post.*

Mirror may be too far away to see "real" draw stop timing. I tried it and didn't care for it. 

Caution and be careful - pull down and especially true when letting bow down.... Derailing is a real possibility.
I have a "J" hook in the ceiling. Hook string at nocking point and draw down, real slow just before bow is fully drawn. Watch positive stop of bottom cam - for a starting point. Again, hang on and be careful. Easy up just a tad and watch both cam stops as you bring bow to full draw. Testing should give you a good idea how timing is.
Timed correctly you should have zero to near zero nocking point.
Twisting strings - piece of cake; which ever cam stop hits first, add one full twist to the cable feeding into the mod (or would be) of the cam hitting first.


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## jbmobley (Mar 28, 2009)

SonnyThomas said:


> Mirror may be too far away to see "real" draw stop timing. I tried it and didn't care for it.
> 
> Caution and be careful - pull down and especially true when letting bow down.... Derailing is a real possibility.
> I have a "J" hook in the ceiling. Hook string at nocking point and draw down, real slow just before bow is fully drawn. Watch positive stop of bottom cam - for a starting point. Again, hang on and be careful. Easy up just a tad and watch both cam stops as you bring bow to full draw. Testing should give you a good idea how timing is.
> ...


OK - i got out my video camera an got some clips of it breaking over. in frame by frame on my pc you can tell the bottom cam is breaking over first. I dont think it is bad off but you can definitely tell the top is behind. Does that make sense for getting a tear nock low? one in the bottom cam?

Which cable do i twist?


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## bfelver (May 13, 2012)

u have to lengthen the control cable to get top came to hit sooner


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## SonnyThomas (Sep 10, 2006)

Yes it could. One full untwist of the buss cable to the top cam that feeds into the cable track groove (or mod) or add one full twist to bottom cam control cable.


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## jbmobley (Mar 28, 2009)

SonnyThomas said:


> Yes it could. One full untwist of the buss cable to the top cam that feeds into the cable track groove (or mod) or add one full twist to bottom cam control cable.


If i add one twist on the bottom is it to the split yoke buss cable or the control cable?


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## bfelver (May 13, 2012)

control cable runs from cam to cam taking twist out will make top cam quicker rotating . how far out of time is this bow


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## jbmobley (Mar 28, 2009)

Got it i think. Put one twist on the bottom yoke cable and half out of control cable on top. got me really close on my tear issue. Then a slight tweak on the rest finished it out. Bare shaft and fletched shafts tearing great holes out of the bow now. The bare shaft is grouping and hitting square in my block with the fletched at 15 yards. I need to recheck the timing on video i guess, but it appears to be a lot better.

Thanks for the help.


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