# Help deciding on my first bow



## Sean.Magnusen (Aug 6, 2014)

Note: This got a lot longer than I had intended; feel free to jump to the end…

I’m a beginner to archery and looking to get my first bow. I’m having a hard time deciding on what to get, so I thought I’d reach out for recommendations from those with more experience.

For some background, I’m mid-30’s and have wanted to take up archery for years, but it kept getting put off. I used to shoot handguns regularly in my late teens to early 20’s, and really enjoyed that, but ammunition can get very expensive; looking for something that’s a bit more reusable. I now have 4 kids ages 3-months to 6-years, so time isn’t always available, hence why archery kept getting put off.

I finally made it to a local shop a few months ago and got some basic training using their loner equipment, I've been back I think 4 times since then to use loner bow and indoor range. The problem is that I want to shoot Olympic Recurve and they are very compound focused. I’m right-handed but left-eye dominant, so they started me out on a lefty right away; the left handed bow feels comfortable, but they don’t have anything left-handed in Recurve. In fact, the only Recurve bows they even have in the shop are vintage-looking one-piece wooden bows. This is the closest shop with a range, is about an hour away, and I have to leave immediately after work to get there in time to have 1 hour before they close.

So… I want to purchase my own Olympic Recurve setup so that I have something a little more quality than the shop’s loner equipment, and that’s a Recurve and not compound. I plan to try and find a trainer that’s focused in Recurve shooting for some periodic lessons, and then can use the shop’s indoor 30-yard range, as well as practice some in my basement (would be about 15-yards), or possibly out on my father-in-law’s land. They’re also about to open a large archery range at a park about 25 minutes away, spec’d for Olympic trials, so I can go there once it opens as well.

I’m 6’ 1”, so I was looking at a 70” bow (25” riser with long limbs), and ideally around 28# draw to start. As I’ve never actually shot a left-handed Recurve bow before, I don’t really know what my true draw length is, but best guess is that it’s around 30.5”.

I usually purchase items that are a little more high-end, and care more about the value than the cost. What I’m trying to avoid though is spending $500 on a setup now that I’ll dump for a $900 setup in 6 months to a year. I don’t see very much used beginner equipment being sold, if I buy new beginner equipment it’s going to depreciate more when I try to resell it to upgrade, and I don’t want to end up spending too much on mid-range used equipment.

For new equipment, I’ve been looking mostly at the Sebastian Flute line on Lancaster. I was originally looking at the ‘W&W Sebastian Flute Premium Recurve Riser’ on sale for $170, and maybe splurging and getting the ‘W&W Sebastian Flute Premium Carbon Recurve Limbs’ on sale for $180, but none of the limbs in the $115-$215 range on Lancaster currently have anything in stock for my size & draw weight, so the ‘W&W SF Premium Plus Recurve Limbs’ for $110 seem like the next best option. But then I’m wondering if I should just go cheaper with the Axiom setup; the ‘W&W Sebastian Flute Axiom Recurve Riser’ with the ‘W&W Sebastian Flute Axiom Plus Recurve Limbs’ for $180 total. Or maybe the ‘SF Axiom Plus Light 25" Recurve Riser’ for $140 with the Premium Plus limbs. 

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Anyhow, for right now, I’m just looking at the minimum setup; riser, limbs, string, rest, probably a plunger, and maybe a clicker; stock or low-end on the rest, plunger, and clicker; not worried about stabilizers or a sight yet. Also, anything I get will go straight to the shop so that they can help me set it up properly, get my true draw length, get me set up with arrows, etc.

So… as a brand new beginner, that likes nice things, and will probably want to upgrade equipment within the first year, which combination should I start out with:
a)	‘W&W Sebastian Flute Premium Recurve Riser’ & ‘W&W Sebastian Flute Elite Carbon High Foam Recurve Limbs’ - $400
b)	‘W&W Sebastian Flute Premium Recurve Riser’ & ‘W&W SF Premium Plus Recurve Limbs’ - $280
c)	‘SF Axiom Plus Light 25" Recurve Riser’ & ‘W&W SF Premium Plus Recurve Limbs’ - $250
d)	‘W&W Sebastian Flute Axiom Recurve Riser’ & ‘W&W Sebastian Flute Axiom Plus Recurve Limbs’ - $180
e)	Keep looking for decent used equipment in the $300-$400 range (riser + limbs)
f)	Other

Any other general thoughts, tips, comments, or recommendations are welcome.

Thanks,
Sean


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## midwayarcherywi (Sep 24, 2006)

Beginner equipment usually gets sold very quickly. There is a large demand for it these days. If you are like most, you'll swap out your kit in a years time, if you stick with the sport that is. I would opt for D). You make no mention of arrows and getting a decent match for your draw length and weight will be important. I think Jason Lewis (Titanium Man) is in your area. I would ping him and see about getting together. 

Doing it all on your own can be daunting. Reach out to Jason.


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## c365 (May 15, 2013)

Hi and welcome Sean, you've come to the right place. I'd definitely spend a tiny bit more and get the SF Forged Plus. For limbs I'd get the SF Premium wood glass, if your looking at the SF line. If your intending to increase draw weight which will happen anyway, no use in spending a bunch on carbon/foam etc. right now. I've gone through five sets of limbs so far. But, there are other good choices from other brands I have the SF Forged Plus so that's why I mentioned it. Depends a lot on how much you want to spend.

Me, I don't buy used unless I can see and handle it. And if they want almost new prices like a lot of stuff on that auction site, forget it, I rather pay $30 more get it new.

Oh, I'd get a stabilizer no question, that's a part of Oly recurve, the clicker can wait, I'd get a good plunger, and DO NOT GET A DACRON STRING....haha! You can wait on the Vbar and side rods etc. You need a sight too.

Lastly, are you sure 28# is your weight? lots of mistakes made in getting a bow that's too heavy. Too heavy and you'll struggle all the while, not fun. No comparison of recurve to compounds in draw weight determining.

All this IMO.


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## acco205 (Jun 13, 2014)

I think you've got the right idea on the "dont dump a ton of money now because you'll upgrade later" bit- but, I wouldnt be afraid to spend a little more on a riser that will grow with you.

My setup (if I were to do it again)

Limbs - Axiom+ - cheap. Not great, but cheap. You'll grow out of them quick, so dont bother dropping $$$ until you're towards your final draw weight. (look for used limbs too!) $75 or less if you find a used set

Riser - SF Forged+ - I currently shoot and will continue to shoot this riser. Very solid, offers proper limb alignment, comes with a workable rest and plunger. Durable finish, pretty inexpensive ($250ish IIRC). There was one for sale on here a while back. IMO good bang for your buck new as it'll be serviceable for a few years, unlike some of the cheaper risers (no limb alignment)

Clicker - dont need it yet

Sight - used. When you're ready, invest in something nice, treat it well, it will last you many, many years.

rest/plunger - either use what came with the riser or the hoyt super rest. Seriously.


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## c365 (May 15, 2013)

That's right, the SF Forged+ comes with a rest and plunger.
Since the new SF limbs (just the old rebranded) are out, you get get a good discount on the Premiums.


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## MJAnderson68 (Nov 15, 2013)

Don't assume you need long limbs. I am 6'1" and have a 28.75" draw length. Find a bow and someone who knows how to measure before you decide. You will need to know it anyway to pick up some arrows. Not that there is anything wrong with long limbs, but if you're looking for used don't limit yourself if you don't have to. I bought a new SF Forged Plus and it comes with a serviceable plunger and rest.


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## acco205 (Jun 13, 2014)

c365 said:


> Since the new SF limbs (just the old rebranded) are out, you get get a good discount on the Premiums.


ohh...good to know! (need some 30# shorts)


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## Sean.Magnusen (Aug 6, 2014)

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

I started looking at SF mostly because they had the most options in the lower price range, but don’t mind getting a bit higher-end riser if it will last. It sounds like the general consensus is the SF Forged Plus; at $80 more than the SF Premium that’s on sale, is it worth the extra? The comparison on Lancaster isn’t typically very useful, so it’s hard to tell what the big differences are between some of the equipment; it sounds like the Forged has limb alignment while the Premium does not; is that correct? Anything else? I do see the SF Forged come on the classifieds occasionally, and got an offer of $220 for one, but same as c365, I think I’d rather just spend the extra $30 and get a new one. If looking into the $200-$300 range for a riser, is there anything else that would be worth considering?

For limbs I see the logic in staying cheap for now, and so based on availability it looks like either the SF Premium Plus @ $110 or Axiom Plus @ $80; looks like both were mentioned. 

C365 said get a stabilizer now; is it typical to use one from the start? Any recommendations on those? At $40-$300, not even sure where to begin there.

Any recommendations on strings? Doesn’t look like much available on Lancaster; was looking at the SF string for $20, but wondered if I should just get something at a local shop.

Re: Draw weight - The guy at the shop that I’ve been working with recommended something around 36# but everything I read online says to start out with 24-28, so I just kind of landed on the 28# as my target. Is that reasonable or should I start lower?

Also, on the SF colors, my preference for the riser would probably be white or silver; does anybody know how those compare to the color on the limbs (Axiom or Premium)? The limb pictures make them look kind of off-white and I wonder if they’ll look odd against a white or silver riser.

Thanks again.


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## c365 (May 15, 2013)

I've got to run out, but on the draw weight, 36# is pretty heavy, of course it depends on the person. That 36#, can you hold it at full draw for say 40-50 seconds without muscle tremor and without creeping forward? If not, I'd say no to 36#.

Remember with Oly recurve, you'll be holding at full draw and holding for perhaps a few seconds many, many, times and under control without shaking. It's totally unlike a compound where you pull through say 50# then hit the let off to perhaps 14#.

Try holding the 36# Sean.

On the stabilizer, I'd just get the cheapest there is, I'm cheap anyway. But you will never realize the benefit if any of a $400 stab. Years down the line when your getting them all in the 8-9-10's maybe.

Others of much more knowledge will answer you soon.


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## acco205 (Jun 13, 2014)

Axiom limbs are bright glossy white, premiums are glossy silver. The riser comes in silver and looks very attractive, nearly the same colour as the premium limbs but a matte finish.

Since it looks like you are new to archery in general (correct me if I'm wrong, I only skimmed your back story), Id wager 36# is way too high. The hold test is a good one, but since you're new to the sport, its pretty much guaranteed you'll be holding with the wrong, and likely much stronger muscles. Once you've been coached into using the right muscles, that 36# is going to do some damage. I started with 26#, but I've been shooting compound on and off for about 15 years. If you can go to a shop and pull some back, that will help, but stay light. You shouldnt have to think about holding the weight, you're going to have a whole hell of a lot more to think about soon enough.

Strings- something that isnt Dacron! If you order from Lancaster, just jump on the chat and have them help you pick. In the future you'll be making your own, but for now, endless loop, 14-18 strands and properly sized for your bow.

Re: stabs- there are a few schools of thought on this. Lots of coaches start their students bare bow, but a big part of that is being able to hold the physical weight. Problem with shooting an oly style recurve bare is that they tend to roll backwards in your hand with a proper grip and need some weight out front anyway. I'd just grab a 30" cartel stab and play with it. Dont worry about V bars and side rods yet.

Other things you will want:

Finger tab - if you can try some out, do. I use the AAE gold tab with a brass plate and really like it, but they are expensive. The AAE cavalier is a popular choice as well. Get the cordovan face if you can.

Arm guard - something is better than nothing!! I use a bieter and have the sweet tan lines to prove it.

Chest guard - you may or may not need it...like the arm guard, get what you think makes you look pretty. Size up for the easton.

Stand - the $15 one on lancaster works fine. Dont break the bank, you just want to keep it out of the dirt.

Case/bag - I have the Legend archery streamline backpack. Its functional. There are tons of options.

Bow string wax - yes. you'll need this. 

finger sling - or a shoelace...

arrows - whole other conversation. Have a local shop help you here. Easton XX75 is a good choice.

Quiver - whatever makes you feel pretty. 

Thats all I can think of for now...


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## acco205 (Jun 13, 2014)

Just noticed the question on the risers- 

The premium (this one) does not have limb alignment and has a review that scares me a bit.

The premium+ http://www.lancasterarchery.com/sf-premium-plus-25-recurve-riser.html] Here looks like it does, but its a fair bit heavier than the Forged+ according to the descriptions. That said, I've never handled that riser, but I'm sure its decent enough. I would certainly consider it.


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## midwayarcherywi (Sep 24, 2006)

Sean,

My head is spinning reading all the responses. I can only imagine what must be going through your head. All of the well meaning posters on AT, myself included, cannot do for you what an in person, qualified instructor can do for you in a cohesive way. He can look at your form, assess draw length, look at your physique and much, much more. He can then pull together an equipment list which will be tailored to you. 

BTW, the guy at the shop is way off base. Do not use him as a resource.

Take the time to find a local Olympic recurve instructor around you. If Jason Lewis is not available, Google FITA Archers Of Indiana. It will be worth your while. 

Yeah, you might get it right with the internet help, but the odds are you'll spend way less time and have more satisfying experience with an in person visit by a qualified hand. 

Whichever way you go, I wish you good luck and welcome to the sport.


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## jmvargas (Oct 21, 2004)

ok sean..i was in your place about 10 years ago when i decided to become serious about olympic archery and decided to invest in equipment..

first off my philisophy was to get the best i could afford...specially in stuff that i may be using for a long time--ie--riser and sight..and even quivers..

other items like arrows,limbs,tabs, and stabilzers ,etc...... are sure to be replaced as you improve so you can start with lesser quality on those and upgrade as needed..

i started with a pre-owned hoyt elan and vector limbs and a sure-loc supreme sight with recurve aperture..

i still have--and use-- that sight(+ others) and have gone thru at least 10 different risers and more than a dozen pair of limbs before settling on the stuff you see in my signature....

am pretty sure my original hoyt elan is still good enough to shoot world class scores but the journey of trying--and buying--newer stuff was still too tempting to resist!!..he he he!!

....hope this helps..


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## Number46 (Dec 26, 2012)

Sean, My name is Garth and I run a JOAD club about an hour north of you in Marion. I'm also on the board of FITA Archers of Indiana which I believe Gabe mentioned in an earlier post. PM me and I'd be glad to get together with you. We've got some different bows you could try out and we'd be able to check out your form and give you some guidance. All we do is Olympic Recurve. Jason Lewis is Titanium Man here on archerytalk you could also look him up as he is in the Indianapolis area. You really will save yourself a ton of time and money if you get together with someone in person to start all of this out. There's a bit of a learning curve up front that you can get from the internet but it's going to involve a lot of trial and error and frustration. In person will cut your time down significantly. For whatever our knowledge is worth you are welcome to it.


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## Number46 (Dec 26, 2012)

Sean.magnusen and I got together today and shot a little bit. After working on some alignment and form we measured his draw length to be AMO 30.5. I had him anchoring in front of his chin getting the sting to touch his chin and tip of his nose. It looks like he'll probably go with an SF Forged riser. He has already ordered some 26# long limbs to make a 70" bow. With his draw length I imagine he'll be pulling 30-31 lbs on the fingers. He'd like to go with some platinum plus arrows to start out. I'm thinking 1813s or 1816s but would like to see what you guys think. I know the Easton chart says to go a little stiffer but my experience, and a lot of discussions on here, indicate it's a few boxes too stiff. What do you guys think?


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## spogshd (Mar 14, 2014)

Sean, I did the same thing 12 months ago, only I jumped in at the top and have no regrets. I bought a second hand 25" matrix riser, 38# winex limbs again second hand, new acc easton arrows, that I now know were an 1" to long, plunger that I didn't have a clue how it worked.
Then the bug kicked in and I started to add to my set up, new shibuya sight, fuse ES long rod, and short rod, weights, Vee bar, case, quiver, stand.
Now (and don't forget, I never picked a bow up until a year ago) the above is my second bow. I'm now using an inno cxt, 46# exprime limbs (I jumped up 2# at a time), bee stinger vee bar, estremo platinum hi mod long rod and stabilizers, carbon shibuya sights, ace arrows.
Basically I have two complete set ups, so beware it can start to take over, but I love it, it's the most therapeutic thing I've taken up. 
I'm now shooting a couple of bowmen scores and I basically tort myself how to tune the bow, just by reading what to do, it took me the best part of 12 months but i'm there now and now I can just concentrate on form.

One more thing that's very important when you take up archery and I think most of the guy's on here will agree, you need a very good understanding wife. Good luck with your new hobby, its very addictive.

Craig


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## midwayarcherywi (Sep 24, 2006)

Hmmm. That selection may not get you the needed length of arrow? 1813 puts you in he T3 group. T5 would be my choice for a 31" draw @ 26#. That would make for a 1916 selection. Viper is the aluminum arrow expert. Maybe he can weigh in.


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## Number46 (Dec 26, 2012)

Gabe, 1916s were my first thought too but based on Vipers guide http://www.shootingthestickbow.com/ArrowGuide.html it looks like 1816s might be more in line. I thought once you stuck a nibb point in them they'd be pretty close to 30.5. I'm not too worried about over draw because he was pulling full length 1616 jazz arrows just to the plunger so I'd figure the full length 1816s would be just about clicker length. I would be interested in Viper's feedback though.


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## Viper1 (Aug 21, 2003)

Guys -

While the 1816s should make sense, the OP is "guessing" that his draw length is about 30.5", which is also the uncut length of an 1816. 
Probably not the best bet, since he's "guessing", and his DL might change as his form improves (usual case). 

For "inexpensive" aluminum arrows, I'd go with full length 1916s, (31" this week) and see how they tune when the shooter is ready. 
Might be a little while for that.
That's basically how I start my longer draw shooters. 

Regarding the bow, the SF Forged Plus 25" riser and long Axiom Plus limbs are the way to go.
It will be smoother and have less finger pinch.
For a new shooter, it's the safest bet, until personal preferences come into play. 

Viper1 out.


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## tim_chung1 (Aug 30, 2014)

Archery isn't an aiming sport get righty


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