# Switchback XT problem,



## Rabbit (Nov 27, 2003)

I'm just curious...how many Switchback XT owners have had problems paper tuning they're bows? I have posted regarding the STRAIGHT LEFT TEAR problem. 

The only thing we could do to correct the problem with two new SB XT's was to put four to five twists in the left side yoke and move the rest over to about 11/16ths from riser. After these adjustments the wheel is leaning waaay to much in my opinon and would cause wear on the string serving. 

After all this we still couldn't get a bullet hole but it did narrow the left tear down quit a bit. If you leave the bow set up llike it comes new and set the rest at 13/16ths you get a two inch (or more) left tear and I DON"T CARE WHO SHOOTS IT. In other words IT"S NOT A SHOOTER FORM ISSUE...IMHO. As Mathews has suggested.

I'm not trying to bash Mathews here...I am a bit frustrated to say the least, and they're not even my bows. I have an Outback and have owned a Q2 and shot a friends LX and Legacy...NO PROBLEMS, there great bows. 

Are we the only people having this problem??? If there is a manufacturing problem with this bow I just wish Mathews would come out with it and correct the problem so we could swap them out for new ones. Please understand, I really wish this was a "bow technician ignorance" issue, I'm not too pridefull to admit when I'm wrong and I hope there's something I'm missing here. We just want the bows to shoot like they're supposed to.

Please, only serious replies...I'm trying to get an idea how wide spread the problem is.


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## pblawler (Apr 7, 2005)

Try rotating the fletching by twisting the nock in 5 deg increments as you shoot through paper. Sometimes thats a hardone to figure especially when it looks like they should clear. Blazers are notorious for that. The grip and roller guard make the Mathews less forgiving or because the roller guard loads one side of the limb fork much more than the other thus you have to preload one side of the yoke more, the grip being so rounded also has the tendency to roll on the shot which magnifies the issue. A low wrist grip and aftermarket grip certainly has helped many with their Mathews. I just tuned a SB last night, same thing. Twist the arrow side yoke but keep the ATA on the arrow side close to 1/16" shorter than the other side and never approach 1/8" diff. After that its all arrow spine/bow weight, fletching clearance, rest position, nock location, grip, and anchor.


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## dtrkyman (Jul 27, 2004)

i had a problem like that with a bunch of 05 switchys,the xts seem better but my buddies is finicky at best.besides what you mentioned one thing ive noticed on three differant sb set ups was excessive contact with the string either nose or cheek and it wont shoot straight.one guys bow we couldnt figure out till i noticed he was burrying the string into the tip of his nose once he backed that tension off his bow tuned great.also center shot for most of the ones ive tuned has been more like 10/16ths.one other thing ive got some arrows set up for gobbler guillitines with five inch helical feathers and those dudes shoot straight when nothing else will,im not saying you have to go 5 inch but maybe a more helical and or larger fletch will help you.


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## jcsck5 (Mar 4, 2005)

*switchback xt*

Rabbit.
My switchback xt shoots a bullet hole at five feet.I used vinces method from the mathews website forum.The rest is set at 13/16 with a shakey hunter drop away.
I dont recall exactly the number of twist i had to put in the yoke,but i think it was two .
The top idler is leaning a bit at brace but i dont think it is enough to cause a serving issue.The idler is lined up nicely at full draw though.
It seems there were quite a few people having the same problem from what i have read on the mathews site.Vince recomended taking a carbon arrow along the left side of the idler rh bow looking from behind the bow,and twisting the left side yoke until the point of the arrow lays directly behind the string at the nock location.
It seems to have worked for my bow,i also had to twist the cabel to bring the cam in.
hope that helps
steve


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## DEC (Dec 10, 2004)

Vince's method worked perfect for my XT and when I set up my buddy's XT. I had each bow shooting perfect bullet holes (both fletched & bare shaft), within a matter of minutes. I did notice that the XT's are EXTREMELY sensistive to how you hold the grip. As one other poster commented, due to the shape of the grip, it is easy for it to roll upon release.


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## GMM (Jun 19, 2004)

I havent had any problems with any of my customers XT's. I had to relearn my grip for my OB, and it works for my SB. Now the same style grip, low wrist, works with XT's. I have noticed the XT needs a little more up time on a fall away. I have had to set them at about 3 to 3 1/2 inches from full draw. Also most of them have center shot set around 11/16" to 3/4". With this bow being short, you have to expect some tuning issues. You will get it figured out though.

GMM


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## MHansel (Jan 8, 2005)

*Sb Xt*

I was having some issue's, but I tuned it like Vince method, and it was shooting great, shot about 150-200 shot's and had to retune. The idle lean needed to be reset, but I wasn't getting perfect bullet holes everytime, I then adjusted my grip, putting more pressure on the palm of my hand, and what a difference, got bullet holes, and arrow flight was perfect, so my problem was just changing my grip some.


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## Rabbit (Nov 27, 2003)

Thanks for the input...we're going to work on my buddies bow this week to see if this new one will tune.

I think my brother may just sell the one the dealer swaped out for him...anyone interested?


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## Jeff K in IL (Nov 4, 2005)

Ok,

At full draw, the idler should not lean, and the string should track straight off of the idler. The strings position can be affected by your type of grip as I found out when experimenting. It could be something as simple as the grip or not.

Try Vince's tuning method or take Pbawler's advice, as they are both very informative!


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## Kendall (Feb 6, 2006)

Does anyone have a picture of Vince's setup. The deal with the carbon arrow laying on the idler and behind the string.


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## ranchdog (Dec 4, 2004)

I have a new Switchback XT 27.5 " draw length, 66 lbs, shooting a Ripcord dropaway rest, and using Gold Tip 5575 XT hunters 28" long, 100gr tips.

I was able to paper tune to bullet holes and so far after two weeks of shooting I am not having any problems. But I will keep my eye out for an issue. Let me know if I can measure anything for you. I think my rest is pretty close to 13/16" from the riser. I know my proshop said that the fallaways on these Switchbacks is real important that it comes up at the very last inch or so.

Ranchdog.


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## bullethole (Mar 22, 2005)

Is this the first QAD Rest you have set up? I set up an XT today - severe tear. Found out I didn't have the rope tuned correctly (although I have set up many of these rests - I didn't check the rope tuning).

Readjusted the rope and - got a perfect bullethole.

Check the rope. The rest should be full up at full draw - not before.

Make sure it comes all the way back.

When you cock it, it is about 10 degrees from being full up. The rope should pull it the rest of the way back when you reach full draw.


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## bullzeyex (Jun 5, 2005)

Kendall said:


> Does anyone have a picture of Vince's setup. The deal with the carbon arrow laying on the idler and behind the string.


*Here ya go! Hope that helps.*

http://forums.mathewsinc.com/viewtopic.php?t=27960&highlight=idler+wheel+lean


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## ButchrCrekHuntr (Mar 26, 2005)

There is no wide spread problem or manufacturing problem with the Switchback XT's. You set the bow to exact specs--close only counts in horseshoes and handgranades.

The ATA should be set to 31 inches on the arrow rest side, and you set the other side to 31 1/16 so the string comes off the idler wheel straight at full draw. You set the cam rotation so a straight line through the timing holes on the cam run parallel to the string all the way to the top end. You let the brace height fall wherever it ends up.

I have taken the XT with the arrow rest centershot set anywhere from 13/16 to 10/16 and shot bullet holes at every setting just by altering my grip. It is hard for people to admit; but if the bow is set to spec, it will most likely be a hand torque issue.

Go to the Archery Tech forum on the Mathew's Website and do a search for "Vince's Tuning Method."


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## GoldtipXT (Jan 29, 2003)

Butch, You mean 31 on the opposite the arrow shelf right? Right handed bows, 31 on the right side, Left handed bows 31 on the left side as if you were holding it to shoot?


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## pblawler (Apr 7, 2005)

GoldtipXT said:


> Butch, You mean 31 on the opposite the arrow shelf right? Right handed bows, 31 on the right side, Left handed bows 31 on the left side as if you were holding it to shoot?



You want the arrow shelf side to be 1/16" shorter on roller guard bows to set the idler straight at full draw. The roller guard causes the cable to pull down more on the riser side of the limb fork so the arrow side must be "preloaded" to compensate. Otherwise the idler will lean toward the riser at the top and cause a tear that will require you to move the rest too close to the riser to correct in most cases. Fixed countless bows with that problem and almost everyone tuned with the arrow side ATA 1/16" shorter.


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## GoldtipXT (Jan 29, 2003)

Thanks pblawler....thats what I meant


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