# Paper Tune with Binary Cams



## Zypher (Apr 26, 2006)

If I am getting a hard right tear with my Tribute. I have read alot about twisting the cables to get rid of left and right tears, but will this not effect the timing of the cams? Thanks


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## Just 1 More (Feb 9, 2004)

I always thojught that a lef tor right tear you move the rest in or out


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## Zypher (Apr 26, 2006)

That is correct as well, but atleast for single cam bows you can twist the cables to get rid of that tear if the rest is square. I am not sure how it would work on a binary cam bow.


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## swampfox (Mar 30, 2003)

I would not twist the cable more than 1 turn. I am not even sure if twisting the cables on a binary cam is necessary. I sent my bows to crackers and never change them and they shoot great. My bet would be with the rest.


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## Zypher (Apr 26, 2006)

Ok I will give it another try. Is there any way possible that the nock point can cause a right tear, because I have moved the rest all over creation.


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## Tonto2 (Mar 14, 2005)

Make sure you are not gripping the bow to tight and causing it to torque when you release the arrow. This would definitely cause the paper to be torn with hard left or right tears depending upon which way the bow gets torqued.


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## XP35 (Oct 11, 2005)

Check for fletching contact? Step one, dude.......no bow paper tunes too well if the vanes are bouncing off something. Don't assume a dropaway is guaranteed to eliminate contact. What about pressure of the string on the side of your face? Too much will give tears, too.


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## toad400 (Dec 11, 2004)

Make sure your d-loop if you have one is tight and square behind your string before and after the shot. I have had loops that are loose or not aligned with the shot cause a right or left tear.


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## Zypher (Apr 26, 2006)

The loop could be it. It's not straight back all the time and causes some twisting of the string. I'm pretty sure it's not grip. And as far as fletching contact, I'm paper tunning bareshaft, is this not exceptable?


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## Bellows1 (Oct 19, 2003)

Zypher said:


> The loop could be it. It's not straight back all the time and causes some twisting of the string. I'm pretty sure it's not grip. And as far as fletching contact, I'm paper tunning bareshaft, is this not exceptable?


I think it best to not use bare shafts to paper tune, with no fletchings, it takes a while for the arrow to stabilize. I think if you backed up from the paper a ways, you may see a different result. Try it again with fletched arrows and see what you get.


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## TailChaser (Aug 13, 2005)

What type of rest are you using?

You don't need to twist anything for tuning on the Binary's. That's only to adjust letoff. If everything else is perfect, you need to play with your grip hand and adjust the rest. 

Once you find a grip that will shoot bullet holes, you need to practice for awhile to burn that grip into your memory/habits. Then paper-tune or fine tune it the same way you shoot every time.


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## Zypher (Apr 26, 2006)

Ok I will keep playing with the grip as I believe thats about all it can be at this point.. As for your question about the rest its a Trap Door.


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## A Mess (May 21, 2005)

You wrote, "I have read alot about twisting the cables to get rid of left and right tears, but will this not effect the timing of the cams?" and "but at least for single cam bows you can twist the cables to get rid of that tear if the rest is square."

You are misunderstanding what is meant by twisting the cables to affect left/right tears on a single cam system. What is being referred to is twisting one half of the split yoke on the bus cable to impact idler wheel lean, which will affect left/right issues. It is not referring to shortening or lengthening the cable itself. (other than the small amount that occurs as a side effect of twisting one half of the yoke) Lengthening or shortening the cable will not affect left/right.

If you view the tribute from the rear, you will notice a groove that runs up and down the center of the riser. If you view the bow from behind, line up the string with this groove. With the arrow on the rest, it should line up with this groove. Bowtech had the foresight to offset the limb pockets so that the string is in the center of the riser, unlike most other bows. This should get the rest very close to where it needs to be for centershot. If you still have a hard right tear with the rest in this position, it is likely something else.


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## Zypher (Apr 26, 2006)

Thank you, I had already aligned the rest like you said so more than likely its in my grip.


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## Just 1 More (Feb 9, 2004)

Zypher said:


> Thank you, I had already aligned the rest like you said so more than likely its in my grip.


Are you shooting a closed hand or, open hand letting the bow fall out after the shot?


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