# "Creep tuning"- thoughts and guides



## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

Basically, creep tuning consists of shooting pre-valley and valley or valley and buried in the wall to see if there are differences in their point of impact and making corrections to either buss or control cable to make them hit the same. I have done this with hybrid style cams with good results and am playing with it now on an MR7, I had heard of it in the days of 2 cam bows (80's and 90's) so it is not new. By design, this tuning sequence offers a level of "forgiveness" to archers that are looking for consistency in a strong shot versus a regular shot or possibly a weak shot, benefits which could help on uphill and downhill shots or in situations you may be more tense or inattentive for whatever reason and draw the bow more or less than your customarily used anchor point/draw cycle position. I have done this and am confident that it results in a more forgiving bow, however, it may *not* result in the cam synchronization that is the optimum for speed in my experiences also. Considering the different methods of "creep tuning", I have read many posts through the years that you may want to think about if wanting to try this tuning method. Seems in archery, as in other things in life, there is more than one way to arrive at a desired result (more than one way to skin a cat, if you will). This post by Nuts&Bolts brings up a valid point of why not to adjust with the *control cable*, see http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2120793&p=1068550688#post1068550688. This next post by member Javi, was my introduction to "creep tuning" hybrid cams and was the first I had experimented with, see http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=207391&p=1988257#post1988257. This next post was by Brown Hornet and states reasons why he chooses to use the *control cable *to adjust for optimum results and to keep the feel the same, see http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1935848. I have compiled these from other members posts that I consider the best so you can have one stop shopping on the subject, I cannot add anything, just trying to help. I respect each members contributions and offer them for you to decide for yourselves which one may be right for you if choosing to use this tuning method.


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## NoDeerInIowa (Mar 5, 2012)

Good info. Thanks for posting the links.


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

Thanks, I find some really good posts and do not subscribe to them all, this is as much for me as everyone else. I can find all three posts/references in one spot later!


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## bowtechky (Jan 30, 2013)

Mark for later


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## Alpha Burnt (Sep 12, 2005)

cuz,
WHERE-EVER you set the d-loop,
LEAVE IT THERE FOREVER....
NEVER touch it again...

and make all CAM SYNC changes
with the control cable....

with half twist adjustments.

IF you work the control cable
AND
you move the d-loop up or down,
then,
you end up CHASING YOUR OWN TAIL....
when CREEP TUNING
to find your sweet spot for CAM SYNC.

I don't recommend using BOTH methods.

PICK ONE.

If you want to MOVE the d-loop UP and DOWN your bowstring,
then...

LEAVE the control cable alone FOREVER.

If you twist or untwist the control cable during CREEP TUNING,
to adjust cam sync...

then,
LEAVE the d-loop alone FOREVER.

After going back and reading this, I realized that I was confused as to what N&B's was saying. I thought he was advising to change the cam synch for creep tuning purposes with the buss cable. What he was actually saying is that you would leave the nock point/d loop alone when creep tuning and using the control cable for cam synch. Careful reading goes a long way! Sorry for the confusion.


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## bigHUN (Feb 5, 2006)

I have found if the arrow resting point on blade is way lower the creep tuning is more forgiving....
btw I do all my french and creep tuning at least 50 meter distance....also, this just me, but I like the minimum nock clearance...


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## blackduck889 (Oct 12, 2006)

tag


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