# setting nock point



## gofor (Feb 4, 2013)

No, you do not find the center of the string. That will be way too low. If you measure the riser, you will find that the shelf which sits below the arrow is fairly close to the center, so putting you nock down there would be too low for the arrow and fletching to clear the riser shelf. 

The rest should be set so the arrow is resting even with the berger hole. The berger hole is actually the hole the rest mount screw goes into. It usually is drilled all the way through the riser so you can see the hole from the shelf (arrow) side of the riser. After the rest has your arrow sitting even with (by even, I mean the arrow basically is centered on that hole, Some like it where the arrow is centered on the top edge of the hole, so you do not have to be exactly centered). 

Then you want the starting nock point to be where the arrow is square to the string when the bow is at rest. One way is using levels. First you get the bow where the string is exactly vertical, and then you set the arrow on the rest to exactly horizontal. 

Another way is to use a square to set the arrow square (90 degrees) to the string. A credit card, business card, etc are all have corners quite close to 90 degrees. So, if you cut a notch in one corner to clear the d-loop knot (if you have one already installed), and lay one edge of the card on the very top of the arrow, you can see if it needs to go up or down so that the adjacent edge is parallel to the string. If the cock fletching on the arrow is in the way, just turn the arrow upside down while finding the right place for the nock. With this method, your bow does not have to be exactly vertical, and can be done with the bow hanging from a hook through a riser cut-out.

Either way will get your initial set-up with the nock holding your arrow square to the string. This will have your bow shooting close to what the engineers designed it to be. Any further tuning, which may raise it a little, should wait until you have your form consistent where you are grouping the arrows together. 

Some manufacturers have recommended that you start with the nock point 1/16" or 1/8" higher than level. (PSE used to with some of their bow, for example). If your bow's manfgr set up directions say this, then you can raise it that 1/8" after you find where dead level or square is. 

Hope this helps.

Go


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## Daniel.Scott (Aug 10, 2014)

Thanks!


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## Daniel.Scott (Aug 10, 2014)

I did my first string swap yesterday. Everything went well and the bow was in tune and spec as soon as I put the strings on. Here was my first shot through paper and a bare shaft and fletched touched at 10 yards. I'll still do some fine tuning but it went well


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## Daniel.Scott (Aug 10, 2014)

I'm not sure why the pics turned like that. It's still a shave point high maybe.


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## pottergreg (Mar 20, 2015)

At 10 yards the fletches have corrected the flight of the arrow. You are close, so now shoot an arrow without fletchings thru paper and see what it is really doing!


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## Daniel.Scott (Aug 10, 2014)

pottergreg said:


> At 10 yards the fletches have corrected the flight of the arrow. You are close, so now shoot an arrow without fletchings thru paper and see what it is really doing!


I got a bare shaft shooting good through paper then was able to bare shaft tune with a fletched arrow out to 35 yards. I should be good for hunting season. I'll be shooting fixed heads so they should fly good


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