# Bear Alaskan 4-wheel mystery: Draw Weight. With Photos



## Creepingdeath2

What is the draw length now?

Just read your other post..........where did you get the cables?
(if playing the string game isn't getting you anywhere the problem might be ahead of that).

Also, it wouldn't suprise me if the bow got a wheel/cable or limb change way back and went undocumented
(the cable/string specs won't change it).

Unless you have a model to gauge, or know the exact history it may take a while to figure it out.

But that's part of the fun :smile:


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## Steelhat

*Current Draw: 30"*

Thanks for your question!
I should have put that in the initial post.

Current draw is 29.5 to 30". 
It fits me in every way but draw weight.

The cables appear to be origingal bear cables. They are set in the wheels with a set-screw. 

The wheels do correspond to wheels used in this bow in a vintage Bear manual I located. But, bow string length, brace height, nor ata are shown in that manual.

Steelhat


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## Steelhat

*and one note- - the cables*

RE: the cables

This is one of the vintage bows that has a ratchet to draw up or let down the cable length, so a tune can always get the eccentric/cam into position and timed. That is how I should have answered the first comment.

I hope someone can identify the error in the configuration.

Thanks, for any ideas or info.


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## skip5515

*Bear 4 wheeler*

I think that the cables are your problem, for one thing the brace heigth looks to low and the limbs look to stright like no preload, is there any thing on the limbs showing for different handle length or limbs lengths for different poundage ranges. I think that some wear this has had the cables changed and that is where the weight loss came from. I did not look but does it have tear drops or s-hooks on cable ends?


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## Steelhat

*Cables*

Interesting point - - and thanks for writing.

This bow has teardrops.

The cables have a 3" length adjustment range. Just like in the (better for showing the cable drum) photos of the other 4-wheel bow I am having draw weight issues with (also posted at Archery Talk), the cables have the in-board end mounted on a drum ratchet which is turned with a large allen wrench. (See top row photo on far right for allen wrench adjustment point.)

I mount different bowstring lengths, and then take-in or let-out the cable to 1) achieve the draw length I need, and 2) set the timing of the wheels.

How much brace height would be appropriate for this bow. Would it be all the way to 10 to 11"?

I aways thought that increasing ata at brace height was one way of increasing peak draw weight...?

Does anyone have a similar vintage bow from which they can measure the stock bowstring length?

Thanks,
Steelhat


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## jhinaz

Steelhat,

I have a 4"X8" paperback titled "Your Compound Bow Instruction Manual" that is comprehensive for the Bear Alaskian Compound bow. It also includes information for Allen, Jennings, Carrol, Precision and Wing. PM me your mailing address if you would like to have it.

Also, I'm looking for a Bear 9oz. Hunting Stabilizer (Catalog No. 7320) if any body has one that wouldn't mind getting rid of. It's the little, chrome plated "silver bullet" looking stabilizer that came with a tight-fitting leather cover. - John


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## FS560

Those are the early limbs. During that time period, teardrops were not used, but S hooks were used.

The nominal ATA on this bow was 50". Since yours is 52", that is a good clue where the DW went. The BH is low and confirmed by the current ATA. I cannot remember what it should be.

I can confirm that the 2" increase in ATA and resultant low BH will take a large amount of DW out of the bow.

Install increasingly shorter bowstrings until you get a maximum of 50" ATA. You will have to wind up the cams with the ratchet after installation of a shorter string. I also cannot remember the string length required, but you will not have to go to a BH of 10 to 11 inches, maybe 8.25 to 9.0. I would take it to the 50" ATA and let the BH end up where it ends up.

Now about wheel synchronization. The ratchet clicks are quite large and you may not be able to adequately synchro the wheels. You may have to unwind the bow and slip one cable a little more or less through the ratchet and retighten the setscrew.

Or you could find an old PSE turnbuckle and install it in one cable. Or, like my father in law did for me, machine replacement ratchets with 2.5 times the number of teeth. Actually, that was still not a fine enough adjustment for wheel synchronization.

Have fun and keep a good supply of beer nearby.

BTW, I would recomment using B50 bowstring material or equal with teardrops. Probably not the best idea to use fastflight or better, since the teardrops might pull off the cable. B50 was all we had in those days.


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## Steelhat

*Manual*



jhinaz said:


> Steelhat,
> 
> I have a 4"X8" paperback titled "Your Compound Bow Instruction Manual" that is comprehensive for the Bear Alaskian Compound bow. It also includes information for Allen, Jennings, Carrol, Precision and Wing. PM me your mailing address if you would like to have it.
> 
> Also, I'm looking for a Bear 9oz. Hunting Stabilizer (Catalog No. 7320) if any body has one that wouldn't mind getting rid of. It's the little, chrome plated "silver bullet" looking stabilizer that came with a tight-fitting leather cover. - John


Thanks so much for the kind offer ! - - 
I do have a worn, old copy of something with a similar title. If you look inside your copy, does it have any bowstring or ATA data? Does it show an eccentric wheel like the ones in these photos? 

I will send a PM. Many thanks.
Steelhat


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## jhinaz

Steelhat said:


> I will send a PM. Many thanks.
> Steelhat


PM answered. - John


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## jeffw

Thanks for posting these and showing the pics. Brings back good memories for me-I was a teenager and worked and saved my money one summer to buy this bow($199 back around 1975/76).


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## jmoose77

I seem to remember the alsakan had two more pulleys not like the one you have. I believe there should be one on the top inside and lower inisde of the riser. The length of the pylons were about four inches and the wheels were attached at the pylon ends. Now, I'm going by memory on this but I think your missing those and that's what has happen to your draw weight.


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## FS560

The early Alaskans (and Tamerlane II) were as shown with the cable terminating straight to the ratchet. The later bows had the pylon as you described.

The early bows with the severe angle of the cable entering and leaving the idler wheel were very sensitive to wheel synchronization. It had to be just right or the wheels would not be synchronized through the peak or would feel funny because the valleys would not hit the same.

The pylon reduced that angle and made the bow feel more synchronized but at the expense of some loss of bow weight. A bow that used a #4 limb would need a #5, and so on.

About that same time the limbs were changed to eliminate the shoe mounted in the limb in favor of a flat head capscrew with steel washer to match to take the limb angle change at the contact point of the washer. This is like those still in use today. There was no cut out in the butt end of the limb. Otherwise, the limbs were identical.

I wish to point out that there was a steel thread insert in the handle so that the steel weight bolt did not thread directly into a tapped hole in the handle, like Hoyt and Mathews do today with a glaring contradiction to good bolt and thread clamping under high load engineering.


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## skeeter60

*Fred Bear Alaskan*

I was given an old Fred bear Alaskan AL7451 Compound bow 60lb draw with a 30" Draw length, Do you know where I can find out the age and worth of this beautiful piece of equipment


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## skip5515

*age/price*

You would need to post some pics so we can tell what you do have as most6 bows didn't have a lot of information on them.


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## skeeter60

This is the pics I hope that you can find these helpful


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## SNAPTHIS

*Alaskan*

DEAR SIR, i PURCHASED THE EXACT BOW YOU HAVE IN YOUR PICTURES WHEN IT FIRST CAME OUT AND ITS HANGING IN MY SHOP. MINE IS A 70 LB. MODEL BUT I DON'T KNOW WHAT THE ORIGINAL DRAW LENGTH WAS BUT IT'S IT STILL HAS EVERYTHING ORIGINAL INCLUDING THE STRING AND CABLES I EVEN HAVE THE STABILIZER THAT SOMEONE ELSE ASKED ABOUT AND THE FACTORY QUIVER I EVEN HAVE AN ORIGINAL REPLACEMENT STRING THAT I PURCHASED AS A SPARE STILL IN THE BEAR TUBE AND THE ORIGINAL OWNERS MANUAL AND THE OPTIONAL PIN SIGHT LIKE I SEE IN YOUR PICTURES. BEST OF ALL IT STILL SHOOTS AWESOME FOR A 25% LET OFF BOW. I PUCHASED THE BOW AT STARLIGHT ARCHERY ON 8 MILE ROAD IN DETROIT IN WHAT I THINK WAS 1972 FOR $279................i'D BE HAPPY TO GIVE YOU ANY MEASUREMENTS YOU MIGHT NEED LATER THIS WEEK AS THIS IS A BAD WEEK FOR WORK AND I'M TRYING TO GET READY FOR THE STATE FIELD ARCHERY TOURNAMENT THIS WEEKEND. MARK TROMBLEY KERNERSVILLE NC 336-749-5538 PS IF YOUR A COLLECTOR WHAT MIGHT THIS BOW BE WORTH?


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## Red-Team-98

The early 70's version was a 4 wheel model.........the later 1977's version was 6 wheel model they added the idler wheels.


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## kballer1

Do close up pics of the wheels, You need to shorten the string 2 to 3" and then shorten the cable to get the draw and then check the #


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## pohorelsky

*Bear Alaskan 4 Wheel Compound Bow*



Steelhat said:


> Can you solve the mystery?
> Why does this bow only have a max draw weight of 30-lbs?
> 
> Bear Alaskan 4-wheel compound
> Limb # *3-AC-17939 *Apparently it is a type-3 limb pair.
> Eccentrics number on side of wheel indicates they are *C-5 1 7/8” size *wheels.
> 
> Current ATA = 52” (May not be original, correct length)
> Current bowstring length between teardrops: 47.5” (May not be original length)
> Current brace height: 7.25”
> 
> Worn label on bottom limb reports: draw setting 30”, setting 50-lbs.
> 
> Bow arrived here with not-the-original factory length bowstring.
> Currently, limb bolts are full in and eccentrics are timed.
> 
> Now restored and reassembled, why does the bow not produce over 30-lbs of max draw weight?
> 
> Does anyone have a matching vintage bow on which they could measure their bowstring length and axle-to-axle for me?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> The string length should be 44", that'll give you a brace height of right at 10" & set your nocking point 3/8" above center. I've never even seen or heard of a pair of #3 limbs on an Alaskan, but a max weight of 30 lbs sounds about right. I have 13 of these bows & many parts. If you want to talk my # is: (979) 822-6886, my email is [email protected].


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## kballer1

I guess I was pretty close on my guess of 2 to 3" shorter string.


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## sammyg

I've had several of those old Bear Alaskan bows,4 wheel and the newer 6 wheel models that had the speed brackets and idler wheels. Good friend of mine worked at a long since gone archery shop back in the day. They were a Bear dealer and I remember him being sent to Bear to learn the ins and outs of tuning their bows and working on them. As for your question on the limbs and their number ( 3-AC-17939 ),I remember him telling me that the first number on the limbs,a number 3 in your case,had something to do with the bows draw weight. The higher the first number the higher the draw weight.A number 4 limb would draw up in the 40 pound range and so forth. As per string length ,those old bows took a 44 inch string I believe.


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## spiderman937




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## spiderman937

Steelhat said:


> Can you solve the mystery?
> Why does this bow only have a max draw weight of 30-lbs?
> 
> Bear Alaskan 4-wheel compound
> Limb # *3-AC-17939 *Apparently it is a type-3 limb pair.
> Eccentrics number on side of wheel indicates they are *C-5 1 7/8” size *wheels.
> 
> Current ATA = 52” (May not be original, correct length)
> Current bowstring length between teardrops: 47.5” (May not be original length)
> Current brace height: 7.25”
> 
> Worn label on bottom limb reports: draw setting 30”, setting 50-lbs.
> 
> Bow arrived here with not-the-original factory length bowstring.
> Currently, limb bolts are full in and eccentrics are timed.
> 
> Now restored and reassembled, why does the bow not produce over 30-lbs of max draw weight?
> 
> Does anyone have a matching vintage bow on which they could measure their bowstring length and axle-to-axle for me?
> 
> Thanks,


This document include specs of original Bear Alaskan Compound Bow which was new in 1975


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## kballer1

Boy does that catalog bring back memory's! Looks like the cables have been changed on that Bear as the first ones used S-Hooks not tear drops so that & the string is probably the main problem with poundage.


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